Ta"«»«jLJ^ 
 
 '1'^ 
 
 CORNELL 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 BEQUEST 
 
 JAMES McCALL 
 
 Class of 1885 
 
 1944 
 
 UQ. 
 
Cornell University Library 
 F 865 U67 
 
 Notes of a voyage to California via Cape 
 
 olin 
 
 3 1924 028 921 927 
 
 DATE DUE 
 
 
 
 
 
 MAV 1 , 
 
 ■•— ...ii;ai» 
 
 ff 
 
 
 
 Ti fl*--j 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CAVLORD 
 
 
 
 PRINTED INU. 5. A. 
 
F 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028921927 
 

 From a Photo by G-Ubcrt i Bacon, Philati'a. 
 
 yrT-c 
 
 
 ?tf ^fe^ 
 
 V££3^--^ 
 
From a Photo by Sarony, New York, Jan. 19tb, 18T8. 
 
NOTES OF A 
 
 Voyage to California 
 
 TIA CAPE HOEir, 
 
 TOGETHER ■WITH 
 
 SCENES IN EL DORADO, 
 
 IN THE YEARS 1849-'60. 
 
 WITH AN APPENDIX 
 
 Containing Reminiscences of Pioneer Journalism in California — California Day 
 at tlie Centennial Exhibition, Philadelpliia, Sept. 9th, 1876 — Re-Unions 
 and Banquets of the Associated Pioneers of California, in New 
 York, January 18th, 1877 and 1878— Celebration of Admis- 
 sion Day, at Long Branch, N. J., Sept. 8th, 1877 — 
 
 Reception to General John C. Fremont, Aug. 1st, 1878, and to Hon. Philip A. 
 EOACH, June 19th, 1876— Dedication of the Liclc Monument at Fred- 
 ericksburg, Pa., AprU 22d, 1878 — Extracts from the Manu- 
 script Journal of the " King's Orphan," in the 
 year 1843— Pioneer and Kindred 
 Organizations; 
 
 TOGETHER WITH THE 
 
 ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION ANB EOLL OF MEMBEES 
 
 OF 
 
 "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS 01? THE TEEEITOEIAl BAB OF OALIFOPIA." 
 
 By SAMUEL C. UPHAM. 
 
 ■WITH I'OU.TT-E'I VE IIjIjT7Sms,.A.mOIi5"S. 
 
 "ALL OF WHICH I SAW, AND PART OF WHICH T WAS." 
 
 PHILADELPHIA : 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOE. 
 
 1878. 
 
~t''^t~try'' 
 
 hl^fin 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by 
 
 SAMUEL C, UPHAM. 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 
 
 PRESS OF 
 
 Franklin Printinq House, 
 3s Hudson Street. 
 
PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA, 
 
 WHO ENCOtWTEKED DAIfGEKS BY FLOOD AND FIELD, 
 AND WHOSE 
 
 BEAVE HEARTS AND WILLING HANDS 
 
 HAVE CAUSED THE AEID PLAIN AND THE WILDEKNESS TO 
 
 " BLOSSOM AS THE EOSE," 
 
 THIS VOLtfME IS BESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY 
 
 THE AUTHOE. 
 
ACKNOWLEDGMENT. 
 
 To his esteemed personal friends, Me. Francis D. Clark 
 and Hox. Jeremiah Sherwood, of New York ; Mr. Coliu 
 M. Boyd, Mr. William Winter, Hon. Philip A. Eoach 
 and Daniel Norcross, Esq., of San Francisco, for their efforts 
 in behalf of this volume ; to the Hon. Demas Strong, of 
 Brooklyn, IST. Y., for his proffer of pecuniary aid ; to the pro- 
 prietors of the Examiner and the Golden Era, of San Francisco ; 
 The Pioneer, of San Jos6, and the Neios, of San Diego, Cal., 
 who published in their respective journals the Prospectus of 
 this book, and especially to the following-named gentlemen, 
 who had the courage to read the manuscript, comprising six 
 hundred closely-written pages, the author returns his grateful 
 acknowledgments : 
 
 Having been residents of California during the years 1849-50, we 
 cheerfully indorse the work written by Mr. Samuel C. Upham, of Phila- 
 delphia, and consider the volume in all respects a truthful and creditable 
 history of that period in California, and of such a character as should 
 especially interest all who formed a part of her population in those days 
 of excitement and experience. 
 
 H. G. GIBSON, Brevet Brig.-Gen'l, U. S. A., Fort Wadsworth, N. Y. 
 THOS. W. SWEENY, ' '■ " " 3U East 120th Street, N. Y. 
 
 DESIAS STRONG 67 Broadway, Brooklyn, E. D. 
 
 JOHN SICKELS 25 Pine Street, N. Y. 
 
 EDWARD P. BURTON, Deputy Surveyor, Oustom-House, N. Y. 
 
 JOHN GAULT, 71 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 BEVERLY C. SANDERS, ... 71 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 W. C. ANNAN 160 Fulton Street, N. Y. 
 
 WM. M. WALTON, 19 Dey Street, N. Y. 
 
 STEPHEN L. MERCHANT, ... 53 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 ROBERT W. BOWLING, , . . 105th St. and Eleventh Ave., N. Y, 
 
 A. T. GOODELL 451 East 5701 Street, N. Y. 
 
 GEO. E. SNIFFEN, Sec'y Knickerbocker Life Ins. Co., N. Y. 
 
 (viii) 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 Peeface — the last part of a book written and the first 
 read. A book without a preface is like a coach without 
 horses — an engine without steam. 
 
 When the news of the discovery of gold in California 
 reached the Atlantic States, in the summer of 1848, I held 
 a somewhat lucrative situation in the counting-house of a 
 mercantile firm in the city of Brotherly Love. The early 
 reports were of so vague a character as scarcely to be credited 
 by the most enthusiastic, and were pronounced by the skep- 
 tical as visionary — schemes gotten up by the powers at Wash- 
 ington to encourage emigration to California and Oregon. 
 But when, in the fall of that year, the dispatches of Com- 
 modore Jones, Colonel Mason and Thomas O. Larkin were 
 officially announced by President Polk's Cabinet, and their 
 statements indorsed by the President himself, soon after, in 
 his message to both Houses of Congress, the existence of the 
 gold-mines of California was acknowledged a fixed fact, and 
 thousands started at once for the new El Dorado, and among 
 them the reader's humble servant. When I resigned the 
 quill for " the pick and the spade," it was my intention to 
 have gone to California via the Isthmus of Panama, but on 
 the eve of my departure, a communication appeared in the 
 New York Herald, in which the writer depicted in such 
 vivid colors the " hair-breadth 'scapes " by that route, that 
 
 (ix) 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 I abandoned my original intention and engaged passage 
 via Cape Horn. 
 
 My time, during the two weeks prior to my departure, was 
 mostly employed in making tlie necessary arrangements for 
 the voyage. Expecting to remain at least one year in the 
 gold-diggings, I purchased and shipped the requisite pro- 
 visions for my subsistence during that time. I also stowed 
 away in a large camp-chest, purchased expressly for that 
 purpose, sundry dozens of flannel and " hickory " shirts, 
 several pairs of inexpressibles, half a dozen hats, of the latest 
 California styles, one of Krider's incomparable rifles, a six- 
 shooter, with ammunition to match, and last, though not 
 least, one of those indispensable articles in a new country — 
 an Arkansas " tooth-pick." As I was on the eve of starting, 
 I added to my outfit a chest of medicine, accompanied by a 
 book containing directions, which, if strictly adhered to, 
 would cure all the ills which flesh is heir to. My mining 
 implements consisted of a pick, spade and crowbar, a nest of 
 sieves, a large tin pan and three patent gold-washers, each of 
 a diflTerent pattern — first-class humbugs ! I also purchased 
 an India-rubber water-2')roof suit — which was anything else 
 than what it purported to be — consisting of coat, cap, long 
 boots and gauntlets, together with a tent of the same mate- 
 rial, another proof of the old adage — a fool and his money are 
 soon parted. But I was not alone in my folly. Many of my 
 fellow-voyagers were equally burthened with " traps," which, 
 on their arrival in California, proved to be quite as useless. 
 
 I do not claim for these Reminiscences any great literary 
 merit, nor do I expect to " put money in my purse " by their 
 publication. They have been written amid the hurly-burly 
 of a busy mercantile life, from notes taken at the time the 
 incidents treated of transpired— their principal merit being 
 a narration of facts, not fancies. I have devoted considerable 
 
PEEFACE. XI 
 
 space to the early history of Sacamento City, where, during 
 the spring and summer of 1850, 1 was engaged in the pub- 
 lication of the Sacramento Transcript, and from the columns 
 of that journal I have made frequent drafts. Should the 
 reader become weary of the monotony of the long sea-voyage, 
 let him turn to the portrayal of scenes in Eio de Janeiro or 
 Concepcion, or to the more stirring events in Sacramento 
 City, during the Squatter riots in the month of August, 1850. 
 In conclusion, permit me to say, should anything in this 
 volume add to the hitherto unwritten history of California, 
 my labor will not have been in vain ; and I will also state, 
 that throughout these pages my chief aim has been to 
 
 " A round, unvarnished tale deliver. 
 Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice." 
 
 Samuel C. Upham. 
 Philadelphia, October 5th, 1878. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The departure — Scramble to get on board — Last night on terra 
 firma — Names of passengers — Departure from the Break- 
 water — Discharge the pilot — Paying tribute to old Neptune 
 — Storm at sea — Deck-load thrown overboard — Humorous 
 incident — Brandy vs. Pilot-bread — ^Dissatisfaction among 
 the steerage passengers — Captain Fairfowl shows his teeth 
 — One of the sailors flogged — Mother Cary's chickens. 23 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Cruising in the tropics — Cabin passengers have a jollification 
 — Cross the equator— Visit the bark Croton — Dissecting a 
 shark — -Passengers present a petition to Captain Fairfowl — 
 A duel in embryo — Celebration of Washington's Birthday 
 — Steerage passengers on short allowance — Gambling on 
 board— Welcome visitors — Land, ho ! — Enter the harbor 
 of Rio de Janeiro — Impressions on beholding it — First 
 hour on shore 40 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 City of Rio de Janeiro — Visit to the market — Mode of nursing 
 children in Rio — The Passeio Publico — Rare plants and 
 flowers — Butchery of Santa Lucia — View of the city from 
 Telegraph Hill — The Theatre San Januaria — Trick of the 
 manager — A night on a dilapidated sofa — Emperor's church 
 — Interior decorations — Yankee mercantile house in Rio — • 
 Visit to Praya Grande — The Frenchman and his orange 
 grove — Visit to the Navy Yard — Scene at the guard- 
 house — Convent of St. Benedict — Funeral ceremony — Mode 
 
 of interment. 61 
 
 (xiii) 
 
XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Visit to the museum — Precious stones, medals, etc. — Observ- 
 ance of the Sabbath in Rio — Washerwomen of the Campo 
 Santa Anna — Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts — Paint- 
 ings and sculpture — The Strangers' Burial-ground — Hot- 
 corn -women — American ladies bound for California — The 
 Emperor's palace and garden — Visit to the latter — The 
 Emperor's juvenile sports — -Second night at the theatre — 
 Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese — Slaves in Rio — 
 Arrival of gold-dust from California — Arrival of the steam- 
 ship Panama — News from home — California-bound vessels 
 in Rio 76 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Departure from Rio — Vessels bound for El Dorado — Auction 
 sale at sea — A pampero — Its consequences — Putting a little 
 whisky where it would do the most good — Hail-storm — 
 Raffle for a monkey — Melee between a passenger and the 
 steward — School of porpoises — Sudden change in the at- 
 mosphere — Its effects — ^All hands on an allowance of water 
 — Horrors of a passage around Cape Horn subsiding — All- 
 Pools' Day — "The Perseverance Mining Company" — Ar- 
 ticles of agreement 92 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Another gale — Salt-water coffee — Cabin stove broken — An- 
 other hail-storm — Terra del Fuego — Staten Land by moon- 
 light — Double Staten Land — Death of Jocko, the sailors' 
 pet — Furious gale off Cape Horn — The cook's galley cap- 
 sized — Cabin passengers on a jamboree — Another gale — 
 Drifting about in the region of icebergs — Raw pork and 
 hard-tack — Fresh provisions all gone — ^Novel method of 
 obtaining fresh grub at sea — Double Cape Horn — Boxing 
 the compass — Passengers volunteer to stand watch — Capture 
 of an albatross . . 107 
 
 CHAPTER" VII. 
 
 Another severe gale — Swollen limbs — Is it scurvy ? — Captain 
 and mate have a growl — Fight between two passengers — 
 One of the passengers celebrates his birthday — Gambling 
 on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it — Fair 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 wind once more — Passengers again on deck — Punishing a 
 ship's boy — Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana — 
 Anchors gotten over the bow — Passengers watching for land 
 — Make the coast of Chili — Head-wind — Driven out to 
 sea . . 123 
 
 CHAPTER Vni. 
 
 Put into the wrong harbor — Passengers go ashore — Reception 
 by the natives of De Chatta — Deserters — Dine with the 
 Alcalde — Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talca- 
 huana — Scenery en route — Chilian peasantry — Their respect 
 for the dead — Primitive wine-press and threshing-machine — ■ 
 Quarter of a century later — Henry Meiggs — His arrival 
 in Chili — Brief sketch of his eventful life — Peace to his 
 ashes " . . . 139 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Arrive at Tome — Dog-meat vs. mutton — Embark in a whale- 
 boat for Talcahuana — The Red Lion and its landlord — The 
 Seiioritas — A night on a dining-table — The market — Coal 
 mines — Feast on muscles — Funeral of a whaleman — Chilian 
 fandango — ^ Chilians, male and female — Females making 
 their toilet — Passengers arrive from De Chatta — Arrival of 
 the Osceola in the harbor of Talcahuana — Breach of the 
 Marine Laws of Chili — Threatened confiscation of the brig 
 — Visit to the city of Concepcion — California-bound vessels 
 in Talcahuana — Funeral procession — ^Visit to the Paps. 153 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Description of Talcahuana — Theft of a water-cask — Punish- 
 ment of the culprit — Our indebtedness to Captain Finch — 
 The American consul — Departure from Talcahuana — Scene 
 in the harbor — Gambling on board — Salt-water dumplings — 
 Becalmed — Increase in the price of mining implements — 
 General washday — Magnificent scene — Passengers on an 
 exploring expedition — Set-to between the Captain and cook 
 — First knockdown for the cook — Sugar served out pro 
 rata. ......... 167. 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Sunday at sea — Light and baffling winds — Man-of-war birds 
 shot— Fresh pork— Canchalagua pills — Passengers on their 
 muscle — Crossing the equator — Old Neptune initiates one 
 of the sailors — Bed-bugs and fleas — Our old skipper under 
 the weather — Fourth of July at sea — Jolly time and no 
 whisky — Ship ahoy ! — Visit from the passengers of the ship 
 Pacific — We treat them to salt pork and hard-taek — Later 
 news from the land of gold — Captain Fairfowl has the 
 dumps 183 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Our last porker slaughtered — Cold weather in the tropics — 
 Off Lower California-^The Captain predicts a fair wind — 
 Will wine vinegar inehriate ? — Provisions and water scarce — 
 Head-winds — First mate ordered below — Encounter a 
 squall — The cook and cabin steward have a free fight — Fog 
 and Scotch mist — Drift-wood — Brig ahoy ! — Visit from the 
 mate of the brig Spencer — Land ho ! — Farallone Islands — 
 Come to anchor outside the Golden Gate. . . 199 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Pass through the Golden Gate and come to anchor in the 
 harbor of San Francisco — Visit the town — The Bank-Street 
 dry-goods dealer — Recapitulation of the voyage — Scene 
 at the post-office — Happy Valley — Leave the Osceo fa— In- 
 telligence from the mines — San Francisco as it was — Crime 
 and its punishment — The Parker House and its gambling- 
 tables — Climate of San Francisco — Start for the mines — 
 Mosquitoes and tulea — Arrival at Stockton — Stockton in '49 
 — En route to the mines 214 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 First day and night on the road — Digger Indians — The sur- 
 prise — Badly frightened — " Song of the Gold-Digger " — 
 The wrong road — Arrival at the " diggins " — Commence 
 operations — The result — Rich " diggins " reported — Start on 
 a prospecting tour — Return disgusted — Discovery of a rich 
 bar — Commence operations — Sickness of the Author — Re- 
 turn to Stockton — Leave Stockton for San Francisco — 
 
CONTENTS. XVll 
 
 Changes wrought in two months — Canvass for a newspaper 
 route — The Pacific News — Its early history. . . 239 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 First State election — The winning candidates — "Fire! fire! 
 fire !" — A million dollars' worth of property destroyed — 
 "Big Ames's" report of the conflagration — An eccentric 
 judge — Muddy streets — First vocal entertainment in San 
 Francisco — Early theatricals— " Them literary fellers" — 
 Terrence Mc Verdant — " A rallying song for the gold- 
 diggers." 262 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Locate in Sacramento City — The Sacramento Transcript — 
 First election in Sacramento — Three tickets ia the field — ■ 
 Names of the city and county officers elected^— Meeting of 
 the Council-elect — Demas Strong chosen President — He 
 makes a speech — Adjourned meeting of Council — Mayor 
 Bigelow's message read and accepted — First message of the 
 first Mayor of Sacramento City 275 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 First conflagration in Sacramento City — Amount of property 
 destroyed — Collation given to the fire department by Mayor 
 Bigelow — Henri Herz, the French composer and pianist — 
 His concerts in Sacramento City — First negro minstrel per-- 
 formance in Sacramento — Rowe's Olympic Circus — Grand 
 soiree — Rival politicians — First meeting of the I. O. of' 
 0. F. in Sacramento City — The Masons and Odd Fellows 
 establish a hospital — Sutter Lodge of Ancient York Masons 
 — Private hospitals — First public marriage in Sacramento — ■ 
 The Placer Times — Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence. . 289 
 
 .CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Commercial advantages of Sacramento City — New buildings 
 — First daily issue of the Transcript — The Placer Times 
 follows suit — Sell my interest in the Transcript to Mr. G. C. 
 Weld — Death of Mr. Weld — ^Tribute to his memory — Cap- 
 tain John A. Sutter — Sutter's Fort — Attack on the Fort by 
 the Indians — They are repulsed — Hock Farm. . 307 
 
XVlll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter — 
 Full report of the afiair — Letter from Thomas O. Larkin — 
 Mr. Francis D. Clark and others resolve that one man is as 
 good as another, provided he behaves himself — The glorious 
 Fourth — Its first celebration in Sacramento City — "The 
 Ancient Order of Bricks" and the Sons of Temperance 
 publish their programmes of exercises— A jolly Fourth of 
 July . , . . 323 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Land-titles in Sacramento City — The squatters organize and 
 mean business — Buildings erected by the squatters demol- 
 ished — The squatters hold incendiary meetings and declare 
 war to the knife — Assessor Woodland and Sherifi'McKinney 
 killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded — Burial of 
 Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney — The citizens 
 organize military companies — Relief for the overland emi- 
 grants — Farewell to Sacramento City. . . . 333 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Down the Sacramento on the steamer Senator — San Francisco 
 in the fall of 1850 — Farewell, San Francisco — Homeward 
 bound — The steamer Columbus — Captain Peck — Incidents 
 on board — Arrival at Acapulco — Scenes on shore — Conflict 
 of authority — Overland emigrants via City of Mexico — 
 Arrival at Panama — Go ashore pig-a-back — Immersion 
 without the benefit of clergy — Panama in 1850 — Two of 
 the Columbus's passengers die of cholera. . . 354 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Leave Panama — To Cruces on mule back — Down the Chagres 
 River in a bungo — Deaths by cholera en route — ^Mr. and 
 Mrs. Gillingham — ^Go on board the steamship Falcon — ■ 
 Deaths by cholera — Burial at sea — Arrival at Havana — 
 An afternoon and night on shore — Take passage on the 
 steamship Ohio for New York — Arrival at New York — 
 Departure for Philadelphia — Home again. . . 370 
 
CONTENTS. XIX 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 PIONEER JOURNALISM IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The Pacific News — Its editors and proprietors — " Boston," alias 
 "Big Ames" — ^First newspaper published in California — 
 The Alta California — Sacramento Transcript and Placer 
 limes — The Golden Era — Bret Harte, Mark Twain and 
 Prentice Mulford — San Francisco Picayune, Courier and 
 Herald — Marysville Herald — Stockton Times — Sonora 
 Herald. 385 
 
 " CALIFORNIA DAY " AT THE CENTENNIAL EX- 
 HIBITION. 
 
 Preliminary meeting in New York — Committee appointed — 
 Rev. Albert Williams addresses the meeting — Programme 
 of exercises — 'Forty-niners and other Californians present — 
 Distinguished guests — Addresses by Hon. Rodman M. Price, 
 Generals H. G. Gibson and Joe Hooker, Governor Curtin, 
 General Sutter, Governor Hartranft and Colin M. Boyd — 
 " Song of the Argonauts " — The banquet — Fire ! fire ! — 
 Telegrams sent to San Francisco 398 
 
 SECOND ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF 
 "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRI- 
 TORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA." 
 
 Committee of Arrangements — Report of Secretary and Treas- 
 urer Clark — Election of officers — The banquet — President 
 Gibson's address — Addresses by General Thomas D. Johns, 
 Joseph S. Spinney, Clark Bell, Colonel James M. Turner, 
 Samuel C. Upham and Colonel John A. Godfrey. 424 
 
 CELEBRATION OF "ADMISSION DAY" AT LONG 
 BRANCH, N. J. 
 
 Programme of exercises — Pioneers present — The banquet — 
 General Gibson's address of welcome — Introduction of Gen- 
 eral Sutter — Letters of regret — Mayor McKune's address — 
 General Sutter's response — Poem — " The Land We Adore" 
 —Bayard Taylor speaks a piece — "Song of the Argo- 
 nauts " — Hop in the evening in honor of General Sutter — 
 Telegram sent to California — The reply. . . 438 
 
XX CONTENTS. 
 
 THIKD ANNUAL EE-UNION AND BANQUET OF 
 "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OP THE TEREI- 
 TORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA." 
 
 Secretary and Treasurer Clark's report — President Gibson's 
 annual address — Election of officers for the current year — 
 The banquet — Programme of exercises — General H. G. Gib- 
 son's address of welcome — Letters of regret — Prentice Mul- 
 ford's address — Speeches by Judge Pratt, Colonel T. B. 
 Thorpe, Colonel Edward F. Burton, Clark Bell, J. J. 
 McCloskey, Colonel Joe La^vrence, Hon. Demas Strong, 
 Joseph S. Spinney, Francis D. Clark and General Thomas 
 D. Johns — " Y° Ancient Yuba Miner " — Notables present — 
 " Song of the Argonauts "—Good-night. . . 456 
 
 RECEPTION TO GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT. 
 
 Formal reception by General Fremont — Notables present — 
 Decorations of the hall — The banquet — Vice-President Gib- 
 son's address of welcome — General Fremont's response — 
 Letters of regret read by the Secretary — Speeches, etc. 482 ■ 
 
 RECEPTION TO HON. PHILIP A. ROACH. 
 
 The banquet — General H. Gates Gibson's address of welcome — 
 Senator Roach's response — Letters of regret — Notables pres- 
 ent — Speeches, etc. 497 
 
 DEDICATION OF THE LICK MONUMENT AT 
 FREDERICKSBURG, PA. 
 
 En route to Fredericksburg — Reminiscences of the town — 
 Genealogy of the Lick family — The house in which James 
 Lick was born — The old graveyard — Cedar Hill Cemetery — ■ 
 Unveiling and dedication of the monument — Addresses by 
 Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon, and Samuel C. Upham, 
 of Philadelphia — Knights Templar inauguration cere- 
 monies 504 
 
 Making and raising the " Bear Flag." . . . 563 
 
 Pioneer Organizations 666 
 
 " Truckee," the Indian Guide 568 
 
 " The Land We Adore," — Song and chorus. . . 570 
 A tribute to Gen. Jno. A. Sutter, and a touching reply. 573 
 History of the inauguration and organization of the 
 Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of Cali- 
 fornia 575 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS.* 
 
 Portrait of the Auttor, . . Preceding Frontispiece. 
 1. Portrait and Autograph of Gen. Sutter, Frontispiece, 
 
 2. Harbor of Eio Janeiro 
 
 3. Mode of Nursing Children in Eio, . 
 
 4. General View of Rio Janeiro, 
 
 5. Portrait of Dom Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil 
 
 6. The Osceola in a Gale off Cape Horn, 
 
 7. Portrait and Autograph of Henry Meiggs, 
 
 8. Entrance to the Golden Gate, 
 
 9. Beaoh of Yerba Buena Cove, 1849, 
 
 10. Post-office, 1849, 
 
 11. The " Hounds" on a Rampage, 
 
 12. Parker House and Dsfinison's Exchange, 1849 
 
 13. Interior of El Dorado Saloon, 1850, 
 
 14. Sutter's Saw-Mill, Coloma, 1849, . 
 
 15. City of Stockton, Fall of 1849, 
 
 16. On the Road to the Mines, 
 
 57 
 
 62 
 
 65 
 
 85 
 
 113 
 
 143 
 
 215 
 
 219 
 
 219 
 
 223 
 
 227 
 
 227 
 
 231 
 
 235 
 
 241 
 
 * The illustrations in this volume are from Original Sketches, Da- 
 guerreotypes, Photographs, the " Annals of San Francisco," and " Cali- 
 fornia Illustrated." The two latter were published soon after the dis- 
 covery of gold in California, and are now nearly out of print. Dr. John 
 H. Gihon, a Philadelphian, and one of the authors of the "Annals of 
 San Francisco," died in one of the Southern States, three or four years ago. 
 Frank Soul4 and James Nisbet, his associates, are, I believe, still living 
 in San Francisco. Mr. J. M. Letts, author of " California Illustrated," 
 is a resident of Staten Island, N. Y. The illustrations of San Francisco, 
 Sacramento City, Stockton and the mining scenes were re-drawn and 
 enlarged by Mr. F. E. Lummis, and engraved by David Scattergood. 
 The Portraits were engraved by David Scattergood and C. H. Eeed. 
 
 (xxi) 
 
Xxii ILLUSTEATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 17. Miners at Work, 1849, 247 
 
 18. Mining Scene, 1849, 251 
 
 19. San Francisco, Winter of 1849-'50, . . .255 
 
 20. " Old Adobe" Custom-house, 1849-50, . . .263 
 
 21. Old School-house, opposite the Plaza, . . . 269 
 
 22. Muddy Streets, Winter of 1849-'50, . . .269 
 
 23. Encampment at the " Emharcadero," Sacramento, 
 
 1849, 305 
 
 24. Sacramento City, 1850, 311 
 
 25. Sutter's Fort, 1849 319 
 
 26. East Side Plaza, 1850, 355 
 
 27. Departure of a Steamship, Fall of 1850, . . 359 
 
 28. Pacific Coast Centennial Hall, . . . .401 
 
 29. Portrait and Autograph of Mr. Francis D. Clark, . 433 
 
 30. Y" Ancient Yuba Miner of the Days of '49, . . 475 
 2 Silhouette Illustrations of Y" Ancient Yuba Miner, 476 
 
 2 li tc cc U li ct jVJiJ 
 
 ii <i u li ti a 478 
 
 1 ti it it ti ii a 479 
 
 38. Portrait and Autograph of James Lick, . . . 507 
 
 39. " " John H. Lick, . . 511 
 
 40. Lick Monument, Fredericksburg, Pa., . . . 517 
 
 41. Fort and Port of San Francisco, 1843, . . .539 
 
 42. Military Barracks of San Francisco, 1843, . . 543 
 
 43. Town and Port of Yerba Buena, in San Francisco 
 
 Bay, 1843, 553 
 
 44. Russian Fort Ross, Bodega, California, 1843, . . 557 
 
CHAPTEK I. 
 
 The departure — Scramble to get on board — Last night on terra 
 jirma — Names of passengers — Departure from the Break- 
 water — Discharge the pilot — Paying tribute to old Neptune 
 — Storm at sea — Deck-load thrown overboard — Humorous 
 incident — Brandy vs. Pilot-bread — Dissatisfaction among 
 the steerage passengers — Captain Fairfowl shows his teeth 
 — One of the sailors flogged — Mother Gary's chickens. 
 
 Monday, January 15, 1849. — Carried my bag- 
 gage ou board the brig Osceola, Captain James 
 Fairfowl, bound from Philadelphia to San Fran- 
 cisco, California. At eleven o'clock, P. M., bade 
 adieu to wife, child and friends, and went on board 
 the brig to spend the night, expecting to sail early 
 the next morning. The weather being cold, and 
 no fire in cabin or steerage, I slept very little 
 during the night. Two brothers of the name of 
 Kelly, companions en voyage, accompanied me on 
 board. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 16. — At eight o'clock, A. M., the 
 City Ice-boat made fast to the Osceola, and we were 
 soon passing slowly down the Delaware. In conse- 
 quence of the early hour at which we got under way, 
 not more than one-half of our passengers were on 
 board when the Ice-boat made fast to us. We had 
 not, however, gotten fairly into the stream, before 
 the belated passengers might be seen at different 
 points along the wharves, swinging their hats and 
 
 (23) 
 
24 LIST OF PASSENGEKS. 
 
 caps, and yelling at tlie highest pitch of their voices 
 for the Osceola to slacken her speed and take them 
 on board. One of the passengers, a corpulent indi- 
 vidual, whom I shall designate as the Doctor, went 
 shouting along the wharves until his safety-valve 
 collapsed, and his steam and gas having become 
 exhausted, he availed himself of the facilities offered 
 by a boatman and came on board wheezing like a 
 person afl&icted with the asthma. Passengers came 
 off to the brig at different points along the Delaware 
 between Eace Street and the Navy Yard, and at 
 the latter place the last straggler arrived. 
 
 The following is a list of the Osceola's passen- 
 gers : Dr. Cassady, William Bassett, W. H. Bunn, 
 Wm. Freed, H. W. Gillingham, C. H. Bennett, J. 
 Slaughter, A. Mecartney, W. McPherson Hill, 
 George Guier, Jr., M. D., John A. Lessig, Pat. 
 Langton, George W. Hart, C. W. H. Solinsky, 
 Abram Powell, Wm. H. Graham, John E. Wain- 
 wright, G. H. Weaver, T. P. Kleinhaus, W. Wack, 
 T. P. Dougherty, T. B. Butcher, Wm. Butcher, 
 T. H. Russell, S. K. Harman, Samuel Christ, 
 H. B. Good, J. J. Cowden, J. A. Banks, Samuel 
 C. Upham, Amos S. Kelly, Chas. S. Kelly, J. W. 
 Folwell, T. J. Folwell, J. M'aelland, David L. 
 Munns, E. Boehme, Henry Prior, H. Shoenfield, 
 H. Courvoisier, F. Dekirt, W. Arnold, J. Falls, 
 John A. McCoy, J. Kellum, William Beenkin, C. 
 Beenkin, F. Miller, J. Kimmell, J. Moore, J. Kep- 
 heldt, F. Kline, H. Limberg, J. Hortsman, Hugh 
 Brady, J. Hewdegan, George Dreka, John Hey- 
 berger, T. S. Berger, Wm. Fetters, George Wilson, 
 
DISCHAEGE THE PILOT. 25 
 
 H. K. Cummings, E. M. Patterson, Charles "Weld- 
 ing, Henry Hyde — 65 passengers : Captain, mates 
 and crew, 15, making together 80 souls on board. 
 
 At seven o'clock, P. M., we arrived at New Cas- 
 tle, Del., where we made fast alongside the wharf 
 for the night. During the evening a majority of 
 the passengers went on shore for the purpose of 
 having a jollification, prior to a six months' cruise 
 at sea. They came on board about two o'clock 
 next morning as mellow as peaches, and several 
 of them will remember for a long time the last 
 night on terra firma previous to leaving for San 
 Francisco. Moderate breeze from S. W. Weather 
 clear and cold. 
 
 Wednesday, Jan. 17. — At seven o'clock, A. M., 
 the Ice-boat got under way, and we proceeded 
 down the river. At seven o'clock, P. M., we cast 
 off and came to anchor inside the Delaware Break- 
 water, with thirty-five fathoms of chain. The Ice- 
 boat, in coming alongside with Captain Fairfowl, 
 ran into us and stove our larboard main-rail badly. 
 Passengers have been busily engaged during the 
 afternoon writing letters to their wives, sweethearts 
 and friends, with a view to sending them on shore 
 by the pilot, who is expected to leave us to-night. 
 After several efforts, I finally succeeded in scrib- 
 bling a note to my wife, using my hat-box for a 
 writing-desk. Weather cloudy and very cold. 
 Wind S. W. 
 
 Thursday, Jan. 18. — At half-past eleven o'clock, 
 A. M., weighed anchor and stood out to sea, and at 
 twelve o'clock, M., discharged the pilot. On leav- 
 
26 PAYING TBIBTJTE TO OLD NEPTUNE. 
 
 ing the brig he received three hearty cheers from 
 the passengers, and when his boat receded from 
 our view the last link that bound us to terra firma 
 was severed. A fine breeze springing up toward 
 night enabled us to lay our course and scud along 
 at the rate of ten knots an hour. Strong breeze 
 from N. "W. Clear and cold. 
 
 Friday, Jan. 19. — Wind still fair, but the 
 weather is cloudy and cold. Of the sixty-five 
 passengers, all are sea-sick with the exception of 
 three. The lee-rail is completely lined with de- 
 moralized passengers, who are paying their tribute 
 to old Neptune. Those who are not able to pay 
 their respects to the deity of the great deep over 
 the rail, are casting ujj their accounts in buckets, 
 wash-basins and spittoons. In consequence of the 
 coldness of the weather, I remained in my berth 
 all day. Considerable excitement was caused to- 
 day in consequence of the man at the wheel being 
 found slightly inebriated. This led to an in- 
 vestigation of the matter, and in searching the 
 forecastle a jug of whisky was found in the chest 
 of one of the sailors, which the Captain ordered 
 thrown overboard. Distance sailed, 184 miles. 
 Latitude 37° 47'. 
 
 Saturday, Jan. 20. — This morning wind light 
 and baffling, being barely sufficient to keep the 
 brig steady. At ten o'clock, A. M., passed the 
 ship St. Louis, bound west. Sea-sick passengers 
 look better this morning. Those that are able to 
 crawl out of their berths are on the poop-deck 
 taking the benefit of a little sunshine. D. L. 
 
A SCANT MEAL. 27 
 
 Munns and S. C. Upham were to-day appointed 
 by the Captain to divide ttie steerage passengers 
 into messes. They were accordingly arranged into 
 four messes of nine persons each — ^two occupying 
 the starboard and two the larboard side of the 
 steerage. Several squalls during the afternoon, ac- 
 companied by hail. Distance sailed, 109 miles. 
 Lat. 36° 41'. Thermometer at M. 26°. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 21. — Eight o'clock, A. M. The 
 wind has been blowing a perfect gale from S. S. E. 
 since midnight; brig laboring and straining very 
 much, and shipping heavy seas. Owing to the 
 rough weather, the passengers are nearly all sea- 
 sick again. No cooking and but little eating done 
 to-day in consequence of the galley having been 
 unshipped by a heavy sea. Distance sailed, 128 
 miles. No observation. Therm, at M. 27°. 
 
 Monday, Jan. 22. — Wind still continues blowing 
 fresh from S. S. E., accompanied by rain. Cook's 
 galley fitted up to-day ; started a fire, and the cook 
 commenced operations in the culinary line. The 
 steerage passengers complain bitterly of a scanty 
 allowance of food, also of the manner in which it is 
 cooked. A small codfish and two dozen potatoes 
 were served up to-day for dinner for thirty-six 
 steerage passengers. This circumstance being re- 
 ported to the Captain, he promises that all shall be 
 right on this score hereafter. Distance sailed, 116- 
 miles. Lat. 35° 53". Therm, at M. 26°. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 23. — Seven o'clock, A. M. Fine 
 breeze from the N. E., which enables the brig to- 
 lay her course and make about eight knots an hour.. 
 
28 A "WAK OF WORDS. 
 
 Have had several light showers during the day, but 
 the atmosphere is delightful. The passengers have 
 nearly all recovered from their sea-sickness, and 
 are lounging about the decks amusing themselves 
 in various ways. They have not yet gotten their 
 sea-legs on, consequently, cannot walk about the 
 decks very readily. Passed a brig to-day, bound 
 west, but could not make her out. Distance sailed, 
 176 miles. Lat. 34° 23'. Therm, at M. 25°. 
 
 Wednesday, Jan. 24. — Wind from the north; 
 brig rolls lazily over the water, making little 
 headway. Have been visited to-day by rain and 
 sunshine, alternately. Several of the steerage pas- 
 sengers have spread their mattresses and blankets 
 on deck for the purpose of drying them in the sun. 
 Owing to the leaky condition of the deck, the 
 upper tier of steerage berths have been saturated 
 with water since leaving Philadelphia. The Cap- 
 tain and second mate had an altercation this morn- 
 ing, in which they called each other everything but 
 gentlemen. This war of words ended by the Cap- 
 tain sending the mate below and putting him off 
 duty. Passed three vessels during the day. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 157 miles. Lat. 34° 11'. Therm, at 
 M. 28°. 
 
 Thursday, Jan. 25. — Fine breeze from the N. 
 E. and weather clear. All sails set by the wind. 
 The steerage passengers still complain of their ac- 
 commodations. They have been grossly imposed 
 upon by Burling & Dixon, owners of the brig. 
 A large portion of the steerage is occupied with 
 freight and luggage belonging to the cabin passen- 
 
PASSENGERS ASSIST THE CKEW. 29 
 
 gers. Bills of lading having been executed for 
 the freight it should have been stored in the hold 
 of the brig or left on shore. A flying-fish was 
 found on deck this morning, it having flown on 
 board during the night. It was cooked and eaten 
 by one of the passengers. Distance sailed, 143 
 miles. Lat. 32° 41'. Therm, at M. 27°. 
 
 Friday, Jan. 26. — Throughout the last twenty- 
 four hours heavy squalls accompanied by rain. 
 Brig laboring and straining very much, and ship- 
 ping heavy seas. The jib was split to-day during 
 a severe squall. The steerage passengers assisted 
 the crew in shortening sail. The Osceola left 
 Philadelphia without a full crew, having only six 
 men and two boys before the mast to work a brig 
 of two hundred and seventy-six tons burthen, 
 around Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 140 miles. 
 Lat. 31° 21'. Therm, at M. 33°. 
 
 Saturday, Jan. 27. — Gale still continues with 
 increased violence. Top-sails double-reefed ; sea 
 running very high and brig straining badly. In 
 the afternoon, the crew commenced shifting deck- 
 load, which was somewhat wet and damaged. Found 
 that the water in one cask had entirely leaked out, 
 and another cask was only one-third full. Burling 
 & Dixon, in their hurry to get the brig to sea, 
 caused the water-casks to be filled without having 
 the hoops tightened, hence the result. If the casks 
 in the hold are in the same condition as those on 
 deck, we shall most certainly be on a short allow- 
 ance of water in the tropics. Distance sailed, 72 
 miles. Lat. 30° 41', Therm, at M. 36°. 
 
6() A SEVERE GALE. 
 
 /Sunday, Jan. 28. — Morning, wind light and baf- 
 fling ; meridian, wind has died away and it is nearly 
 a dead calm. Afternoon, light squalls accompanied 
 by rain. For several days past, a few of the steer- 
 age passengers have been in favor of having their 
 rations weighed out, while others have 02:)posed the 
 measure. This morning the Captain gave the first 
 mate orders to serve out naval rations to the steer- 
 age jDassengers until further orders. Passengers 
 and crew served with water this morning — three 
 quarts to each person. This afternoon the crew 
 removed the " iceboards " from the bow of the brig. 
 Distance sailed, 31 miles. Lat. 30° 52'. Therm, 
 at M. 40°. 
 
 Monday, Jan. 29. — At daylight this morning the 
 wind suddenly increased to a gale. We were com- 
 pelled to hard-up the helm in order to get the can- 
 vas off the brig. At eight o'clock, A. M., hove to 
 under close-reefed maintop-sail and stay-sail, with 
 a heavy sea running, which caused the brig to 
 strain very much. To add to our peril, the fcrr- 
 ward cabin now began to work with the strain of 
 the deck-load. The safety of the brig compelled 
 the Captain to give orders to heave overboard the 
 principal part of the deck-load to ease her. With 
 the exception of a few ship's stores, it belonged to 
 the passengers, and consisted of provisions, brandy, 
 house-frames and gold-washers. Unfortunately, 
 several of the passengers had their entire freight on 
 deck, consisting of provisions for their subsistence 
 in California. Poor fellows ! they will be in a sad 
 plight on arriving in San Francisco, almost penni- 
 
AN AMUSING INCIDENT. 31 
 
 less and without provisions. The throwing over- 
 board a cargo at sea for the purpose of saving the 
 ship is anything but agreeable when nothing but 
 a plank separates one from eternity. During the 
 gale the following ludicrous incident occurred : 
 While all hands, passengers and crew, were busily 
 engaged staving in the heads and throwing over- 
 board brandy, molasses and vinegar casks, a fellow- 
 passenger, who had 
 
 " Done the State some service " 
 
 during the late war with Mexico, and being withal 
 a great lover of whisky, caught up from off the 
 deck both hands full of a; mixture of brandy, mo- 
 lasses, vinegar and salt water, and after taking a 
 hearty swig, exclaimed, "Jimminy, boys, this is first- 
 rate swankey.'" The same individual, during the 
 destruction of the brandy casks, labored extremely 
 hard to preserve one from the general wreck, which 
 on being broached, proved to be, to his great chagrin, 
 a brandy cask filled with pilot-bread. 
 
 While the casks composing the deck-load were 
 waltzing to one of the tunes of old Boreas, the two 
 ship's boys and one of the passengers had their 
 propellers slightly injured. Distance sailed, 116 
 miles. Lat. 31° 45'. Therm, at M. 44°. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 30. — Went on deck at six o'clock 
 this morning and found the gale still raging; 
 brig under close-reefed sails. The main-hatch was 
 broken out to-day for the purpose of getting at the 
 water, all on deck having been used. In conse- 
 quence of the leaky condition of the casks, one- 
 
32 IMPOSITIOjST of BUKLING & DIXON. 
 
 third of the water was found to have leaked out of 
 each of the five casks broken out. We shall most 
 certainly suffer for the want of fresh water before 
 reaching Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Owing to the crowded state of the brig, the ac- 
 commodations in cabins and steerage are miserable. 
 The passengers belonging to the latter, in particular, 
 have been shamefully imposed upon by the owners, 
 as the following facts will fully demonstrate : — 
 
 When the steerage berths were taken, a table 
 was fitted up for the use of the passengers, at 
 which thirty persons could be comfortably seated, 
 and the steerage was tolerably well lighted by sky- 
 lights. When the Osceola was on the eve of leav- 
 ing the j)ort of Philadelphia, the table and seats 
 were removed by order of the owners of the brig, 
 and the space occupied by them stowed with cases 
 chests and trunks, a large portion of which be- 
 longed to the cabin passengers ; consequently, the 
 steerage passengers have been compelled to mess on 
 chicken-coops, pig-pens, water-casks and trunks, 
 subjected to almost every imaginable inconvenience. 
 In fact, the brig has been a perfect Hades since she 
 sailed from Philadelphia. The steerage of the brig 
 contains less than six hundred and fifty superficial 
 feet, and there are forty-four souls, including mates, 
 stewards and cooks, who sleep in it, which is twelve 
 persons more than is allowed by the laws of the 
 United States to passenger vessels passing through 
 the tropics. Distance sailed, 124 miles. Lat. 31° 
 07'. Therm, at M. 49°. 
 
 Wednesday, Jan. 31. — Went on deck this morn- 
 
DUFF FOK BREAKFAST. 33 
 
 ing at seven o'clock and found the brig jumping 
 through the water at the rate of eight knots an 
 hour, with starboard studding-sails all set. This is 
 the most delightful day experienced since leaving 
 Philadelphia. We had a partial break-out in the 
 steerage to-day, which has added very much to the 
 convenience of the passengers. The Captain or- 
 dered the booby-iiatch removed for the purpose of 
 more thoroughly ventilating the steerage. The 
 brig has no wind-sails on board, but the Captain 
 has promised to have one made for the steerage at 
 once. Distance sailed, 49 miles. Lat. 30° 44'. 
 Therm, at M. 56°. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 1. — Eight o'clock, A. M., fine 
 breeze from W. S. W. and clear. Studding-sails 
 set below and aloft, and brig making eight knots 
 an hour, which is all we can get out of the old tub. 
 This being duflf-day, the flour and raisins were 
 served out last evening to the caterers of the steer- 
 age messes for their duff. The ingredients were 
 accordingly mixed and taken to the cook last even- 
 ing in order that they might be put into the coppers 
 early this morning to boil for dinner ; but the boys, 
 on going to the galley for their coffee, were taken all 
 aback by the cook's presenting them with their duff 
 for breakfast, pilling hot, a mistake chargeable to 
 the misplaced zeal of the son of a sea-cook I The 
 circumstance was reported to the Captain, who gave 
 the cook orders in future not to boil duff for break- 
 fast! Distance sailed, 158 miles. Lat. 30° 6b'. 
 Therm, at M. 63°. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 2. — This is my birthday. Thirty 
 
84 EEALITY VS. EOMANCE. 
 
 years old to-day. Have been a rolling-stone all 
 my life, consequently have gathered no moss. Am 
 now in search of " the golden fleece," and may re- 
 turn shorn. JVous verrons! At eleven o'clock last 
 night the wind commenced blowing a gale from N. 
 N. E. At twelve o'clock split foretop-sail ; soon 
 after sent down royal-yards and hove the brig to. 
 At eight o'clock this morning repaired top-sail and 
 let the close reef out of the maintop-sail. At 
 meridian, the storm abated somewhat, but the sea 
 is still running very high, causing the brig to labor 
 heavily and ship an occasional sea. Commenced 
 reading to-day a work entitled " What I Saw in 
 Califoenia," by Edwin Bryant, in which I am 
 deeply interested. Mr. Bryant traveled the over- 
 land route to California, via Independence, Mis- 
 souri; and I regret very much that I did not take 
 the same route in preference to this, via Cape 
 Horn. Descriptions of a "life on the ocean wave" 
 read very prettily on shore, but the reality of a sea 
 voyage speedily dispels the romance. Distance 
 sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 29° 55'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 Saturday, Feb. 3. — Went on deck at six o'clock 
 this morning, found the reefs all let out and the 
 light sails set ; brig sailing six knots an hour. The 
 wind continuing fair in the afternoon, the Captain 
 ordered the larboard topmast and top-gallant stud- 
 ding-sails set, which caused the brig to bound mer- 
 rily over the water, shortening the distance between 
 us and the golden land to which we are bound. 
 God grant that we may have a safe and speedy pas- 
 sage to our port of destination, and that, on our 
 
MOSQUITOES AND MIjSTISTEES. 35 
 
 arrival, our most sanguine expectations may be 
 realized. Distance sailed, 166 miles. Lat. 30° 17'. 
 Therm, at M. 71°. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 4. — To-day, wind light and baffling, 
 but the weather is delightfully pleasant. Being 
 religiously inclined I borrowed a Bible from a 
 fellow-passenger — not being provided with one my- 
 self — read a chapter, and cogitated in my mind 
 a sermon suited to the occasion. I regret exceed- 
 ingly that I did not bring a Bible and Prayer-Book 
 with me, for I expect to do my own preaching 
 during the next two years. California will proba- 
 bly be better supplied with mosquitoes than minis- 
 ters. Distance sailed, 125 miles. Lat. 29° 55'. 
 Therm, at M. 67°. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 5. — Fine breeze from W. S. W., 
 weather clear and pleasant. Passengers assisted the 
 crew in breaking out the main-hold for water and 
 provisions. Found the water in two of the casks 
 nearly half leaked out, which fully confirms in my 
 mind a previously-expressed opinion that we shall 
 run short of fresh water before reaching Bio de 
 Janeiro. Several of the passengers have already 
 become weary of a sea voyage, and have been talk- 
 ing very strongly to-day of leaving the Osceola at 
 Bio, crossing the Andes to Valparaiso, and awaiting 
 there the arrival of the brig, thus avoiding the pas- 
 sage around Cape Horn. I consider the project 
 an insane one, one which I would not attempt for 
 any earthly consideration, and shall use my best 
 endeavors to dissuade others from hazarding their 
 lives in an undertaking so futile and foolhardy. 
 
36 SHOET ALLOWANCE OF WATER. 
 
 The distance across from Eio to Valparaiso is far 
 greater than at any other point on the continent of 
 South America, and the journey would be attended 
 with incredible hardship and suffering. Having 
 paid my passage to San Francisco on board the 
 brig Osceola, I intend, if my life be spared, to 
 remain by her until she reaches that port or goes to 
 Davy Jones's locker. Distance sailed, 92 miles. 
 Lat. 28° 27'. Therm, at M. 78°. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 6. — This morning, at daylight, 
 weather fair with a fresh breeze from N. N. E. 
 The brig is making nine knots an hour, which is 
 something remarkable for her, and all hands, in- 
 cluding the cook, feel jolly. At ten o'clock, A. M., 
 we exchanged signals with a French brig steering 
 N. N. W. The crew, assisted by the passengers, 
 broke out the main-hold again to-day in search of 
 water. More leaky casks found, in consequence of 
 which the Captain has put all hands on an allow- 
 ance of five pints of water to each person. Yester- 
 day, we struck the " trades," in longitude 37° 20'. 
 Distance sailed, 182 miles. Lat. 26° 31'. Therm, 
 at M. 71°. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 7. — Throughout to-day, fresh 
 breeze from N. E., with occasional squalls and light 
 rain. The cabin passengers have been growling 
 for some time about their miserable accommoda- 
 tions, and to-day have declared war to the knife. 
 They have resolved to hold an indignation meeting, 
 and on their arrival at Eio de Janeiro to report the 
 proceedings with their grievances to the American 
 consul at that port, and ask his interference in the 
 
ANOTHEK WAR OF WORDS. 37 
 
 matter. They swear by all the saints in tlie calen- 
 dar that the Osceola shall not leave Eio until mat- 
 ters are adjusted to their entire satisfaction. Both 
 cabin and steerage passengers have much cause for 
 complaint, and I sincerely hope that justice may be 
 done to all on board before the Osceola leaves Eio. 
 Distance sailed, 190 miles. Lat. 24° 22'. Therm, 
 at M. 69°. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 8. — We crossed the Tropic of 
 Cancer to-day and may expect excessively hot 
 weather until we cross Capricorn. Last evening an 
 altercation occurred between the Captain and first 
 mate, Mr. Howell, in relation to the pumps, which 
 resulted in the latter being put off duty. During 
 the controversy they were not very choice in their 
 selections from the King's English. The opinions 
 of the passengers, in relation to this matter, appear 
 to be about equally divided, although I am inclined 
 to the belief that were a vote of all on board regis- 
 tered, a majority would be found in favor of the 
 mate. To-day we have been favored with a fair 
 breeze from the north-east, and all drawing sails 
 have been set. Distance sailed, 176 miles. Lat. 
 22° 15'. Therm, at M. 71°. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 9. — The weather this morning is as 
 clear and balmy as a May morning, in Philadel- 
 phia, and the brig is gliding along at the rate of 
 eight knots an hour. 
 
 In consequence of the first mate being oif duty, 
 the first watch last night was kept by one of the 
 passengers, who in early life had served on board 
 a man-of-war. There is nothing, in my opinion, 
 
38 A SAILOR FLOGGED. 
 
 more essential to the safety of a vessel and tlie lives 
 of her passengers than harmony among her officers. 
 The Captain and mates of the Osceola have been at 
 loggerheads since leaving Philadelphia, and God 
 only knows how much longer this asperity of feel- 
 ing will continue to exist between them. 
 
 A brig, supposed to be the Oniota, bound for 
 San Francisco, which sailed from Philadelphia five 
 days ahead of the Osceola, has been on our weather- 
 quarter, five miles distant, during the afternoon, 
 but we are now rapidly leaving her astern. We 
 are to-day in the latitude of the Cape de Verde 
 Islands, and about thirty hours' sail, Osceola time, 
 to the westward of them. Distance sailed, 174 
 miles. Lat. 19° 53'. Therm, at M. 72°. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 10. — Went on deck at seven 
 o'clock this morning, and found the weather de- 
 lightfully pleasant. The brig is being wafted 
 along by the trade-winds at the rate of eight knots 
 an hour. The Captain flogged one of the sailors 
 this morning for a trifling misdemeanor, and the 
 passengers have been gathered in knots about the 
 deck, during the forenoon, discussing the matter. 
 The majority appear to be opposed to corporeal 
 punishment, but are willing to admit that the safety 
 of the brig depends on the maintenance of strict 
 discipline. 
 
 During the twenty-four hours ending at twelve 
 o'clock, M., to-day, the Osceola has sailed 205 miles, 
 being a greater distance than she has made during 
 any previous day since leaving the Capes of the 
 Delaware. Three cheers for the Osceola ! She 
 
MOTHER CAEY's CHICKENS. 39 
 
 certainly smells land. Several flying-fisli came on 
 board during last night. I have preserved one of 
 their wings as a memento of the tropics. Lat. 
 16° 52'. Therm, at M. 75°. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 11. — Although it has been hazy 
 to-day, the weather has not been oppressive in 
 consequence of the trade-winds, which in this 
 latitude are bracing and invigorating. This morn- 
 ing, Mr. Howell, the first mate, presented me with 
 a Bible, for which I feel very grateful. Law and 
 physic have several votaries on board the Osceola, 
 but divinity has not a single representative. 
 During the day I have noticed several flocks of 
 "Mother Gary's chickens" flying around the brig 
 and skimming over the surface of the water. 
 These little messengers of the deep are of the size 
 and color of a swallow, and are regarded by most 
 sailors with feelings of superstition and reverential 
 awe. Some mariners fully believe them to be the 
 winged spirits of their departed comrades, and 
 consider it a great sacrilege to attempt to capture 
 or kill them. Distance sailed, 202 miles. Lat. 
 13° 53'. Therm, at M. 76°. 
 
CHAPTEE II. 
 
 Cruising in tiie tropics — Cabin passengers have a jollification 
 — Cross the equator — Visit the bark Croton — Dissecting a 
 shark — Passengers present a petition to Captain Fairfowl — ■ 
 A duel in embryo — Celebration of "Washington's Birthday 
 — Steerage passengers on short allowance — Gambling on 
 board — Welcome visitors — Land, ho! — Enter the harbor 
 of Rio de Janeiro — Impressions on beholding it — First 
 hour on shore. 
 
 Monday, February 12. — The weatlier continues 
 close and tazy, with, strong indications of rain. 
 The trade-winds are gradually dying away, and we 
 shall probably be becalmed before reaching the 
 equator. 
 
 As we were nearing the head-quarters of old 
 Neptune yesterday afternoon, a letter addressed to 
 His Highness was thrown overboard by one of his 
 subjects, informing him that there were several 
 candidates for initiation on board the Osceola. 
 Early this morning a rejDly was received from 
 the old salt, stating that he would board us as we 
 " crossed the line " of his dominions, for the express 
 purpose of performing the " awful and terrifying " 
 ceremonies of initiation, and requesting the candi- 
 dates to be in readiness, as he could not be detained 
 long from home, in consequence of the ill-health of 
 Mrs. Neptune. Distance sailed, 192 miles. Lat. 
 11° 04'. Therm, at M. 77°. 
 
 (40) 
 
BEST TIME TET MADE. 41 
 
 Tuesday Feb. 13. — The weatter is as warm to- 
 day as it is in Philadelphia in midsummer, and 
 were it not for the trade-winds the heat would be 
 very oppressive. To-day the caterers of the steer- 
 age messes made a complaint to the Captain in 
 relation to the quality and quantity of provisions 
 received by them from the cook. He has promised 
 to provide the steerage passengers with a cook and 
 galley, on the arrival of the brig at Rio. If this 
 promise is not adhered to, a full report of our 
 grievances will be made to the American consul. 
 Distance sailed to-day, 225 miles! Best time yet 
 made. Hurrah for the old tub ! Lat. 7° 45'. 
 Therm, at M. 80°. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 14. — Owing to the excessive 
 heat, I slept very little last night, and throughout 
 the day the weather has been very oppressive. 
 Several of the passengers remained on deck last 
 night rather than submit to a vapor-bath in their 
 berths. Took a salt-water bath this evening, and 
 feel very much refreshed. Distance sailed, 184 
 miles. Lat. 4° 41'. Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 15. — When I went on deck, at 
 six o'clock this morning, the wind was light and 
 baffling, with every indication of a calm. The 
 brig has not made more than four knots an hour 
 during the night. At twelve o'clock, M., it was 
 nearly a dead calm, and the sails flapped lazily 
 against the masts. In the afternoon we had a light 
 fall of rain, accompanied by baffling breezes. This 
 forenoon saw a hermaphrodite brig steering south 
 by west, probably bound for Eio de Janeiro. This 
 
42 STILL NOETH OF THE EQUATOE. 
 
 afternoon ran into a sciiool of skip-jacks, a species 
 of the finny tribe found in abundance in this lati- 
 tude. They are about two feet in length when full 
 grown, very plump, and of a deep purple color. 
 The morning watch was kept by one of the ship's 
 boys — a juvenile watch officer/ Distance sailed, 
 134 miles. Lat. 2° 28'. Therm, at M. 81°. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 16. — We have been becalmed all 
 day within one hundred miles of the equator. 
 Last night the weather was so excessively hot that 
 a majority of the passengers slept on deck. During 
 the night, four of the first cabin passengers, not 
 having the fear of "delirium triangles" before their 
 eyes, took it into their heads to have a jollification. 
 They made night hideous with their drunken rev- 
 elry, to the great annoyance and disgust of those 
 who were more quietly disposed. To cap the 
 climax, one of the revelers had an attack of mania 
 apotu this morning, which I think will have a 
 tendency to check his bacchanalian propensities in 
 future. Distance sailed, 58 miles. Lat. 1° 80'. 
 Therm, at M. 86°. " Jerusalem, my happy home," 
 how hot it is ! 
 
 Saturday, Feb. YI. — We are still north of the 
 equator, having been becalmed during last night 
 and this forenoon. I slept on top of the cabin last 
 night with nothing but the canopy of heaven for 
 covering. Early this morning the mate caught an al- 
 bicore, being the first fish caught with a hook and line 
 during the passage, although several lines have been 
 trailing over the stern of the brig the past ten days. 
 During the last week we have seen small fish in 
 
ACEOSS THE LINE. 43 
 
 abundance, but they do not seem to be very hungry. 
 It has been rainy and squally all the afternoon, 
 still it remains very hot and oppressive. Distance 
 sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 1° 13'. Therm, at M. 84°. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 18. — It rained incessantly through- 
 out last night. It seemed as though the flood-gates 
 of heaven had been opened especially for our bene- 
 fit. The rain ceased at daylight, and a fresh breeze 
 from W. S. W. has enabled us to glide along at the 
 rate of seven knots an hour this forenoon. During 
 the night we caught a barrel of rain-water, which 
 has enabled the passengers to indulge in the luxury 
 of a fresh-water wash — the first since leaving 
 Philadelphia. This morning one of the passengers 
 caught a bonito weighing thirty pounds, which was 
 served up for dinner. A large school of blackfish 
 passed us this morning to the leeward, half a mile 
 distant. We crossed the equinoctial line about ten 
 o'clock, in longitude 25° 40'. Neptune did not honor 
 us with a Adsit, in consequence, I presume, of its 
 being Sunday. Distance sailed, 83 miles. Lat. 0° 
 11' south. Therm, at M. 80°. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 19. — Another dead calm through- 
 out to-day. It seems as though we were never to get 
 out of the " horse latitude." Yesterday evening a 
 bark was discovered to the windward heading for 
 Rio. Early this morning we exchanged colors with 
 her, and at ten o'clock, A. M., our stern boat was 
 lowered and manned with passengers, for the pur- 
 pose of boarding her. At one o'clock, P. M., our 
 boat returned with a dozen passengers from the 
 stranger, which proved to be the bark Oroton, Cap- 
 
44 A SOCIAL VISIT AT SEA. 
 
 tain D. V. Souillard, wliich sailed from New York 
 on the IGth ultimo, bound for San Francisco, with 
 fifty-four jDassengers on board. During the after- 
 noon, the boats of both vessels have been busily 
 engaged carrying the passengers to and fro. Some 
 fifteen or twenty of the Groton's joassengers dined 
 with us, and about the same number of our passen- 
 gers partook of a collation on board that vessel. 
 The wine bottle passed merrily around, and wit, 
 sentiment and song imparted zest to the scene. 
 Mirth and hilarity reigned pre-eminent, and every- 
 thing went as 
 
 " Merry as a marriage bell," 
 
 until toward night one of our passengers, who had 
 imbibed too much whisky, kicked up a row on 
 board the Oroton, which resulted in his being 
 brought on board the brig by his shipmates and 
 placed in durance. The accommodations of the pas- 
 sengers on board the Croton are most admirable. 
 They are so much superior to ours, that one of our 
 passengers offered f 150 to any one on board that 
 vessel who would exchange berths with him. The 
 offer was not accepted. Distance sailed, 35 miles. 
 Lat. 0° 28'. Therm, at M. 85°. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 20. — The brig's awning was spread 
 to-day for the first time during the passage, although 
 for the past ten days we have, when on deck, been 
 exposed to the broiling rays of a tropical sun. We 
 are still within one degree of the equator, having 
 made only five minutes of latitude during the past 
 twenty-four houi^s. In consequence of the con- 
 
DISSECTING A SHAEK. 45 
 
 tinued calm and the low state of our fresli water, 
 each person to-day received his allowance of water 
 separately, which called into requisition all the 
 empty bottles, jugs and jars that could be found on 
 board the brig. 
 
 This morning one of the passengers caught a 
 shark seven feet in length, and in less than twenty 
 minutes after having been landed on deck, he was 
 literally "used up." Never was a shark more 
 thoroughly dissected. His vertebrse were cut out 
 and divided among the passengers, each receiving 
 a joint as a memento of his sharkship. Distance 
 sailed, only eight miles ! Lat. 0° 33', Therm, at 
 M. 84°. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 21. — Since sunrise we have 
 been favored with a light but fair breeze from 
 E. S. E. God grant that it may continue until we 
 reach Eio. Yesterday morning, I was appointed 
 one of a committee of three to present to Captain 
 Fairfowl a petition signed by fifty-one of our pas- 
 sengers, protesting against the first mate's watch 
 being kept by incompetent persons, thereby endan- 
 gering the lives of all on board ; also requesting in 
 respectful terms the restoration of the first mate to 
 duty. This afternoon a written reply was received 
 from the Captain, stating that he hoped to reach 
 E.io in safety, but would not comply with our re- 
 quest in relation to the mate, refusing in positive 
 terms to restore him to duty so long as he (the 
 Captain) " breathed the breath of life." 
 
 The sun being obscured to-day, the old skipper 
 
46 Washington's biethday. 
 
 was unable to take an observation. Distance sailed, 
 as per log, 45 miles. Therm, at M. 80°. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 22. — Last niglit, at twelve 
 o'clock, we made the south-east " trades," and to- 
 day we have been skimming along at the rate of six 
 knots an hour. In consequence of the excessively 
 hot weather, and want of exercise, two of the first- 
 cabin passengers have had an attack of the rabies, 
 and not having the fear of man before their eyes, 
 have concluded to have coffee and pistols for two 
 served up on their arrival in E,io. A challenge has 
 been given and accepted, and all the preliminaries 
 arranged by the seconds, to the apparent satisfaction 
 of both parties. 
 
 "It lias a strange, quick jar upon the ear, 
 That cocking of a pistol, ■when you know 
 
 A moment more will bring the sight to bear 
 Upon your person, twelve yards off, or so ; 
 
 A gentlemanly distance, not too near. 
 If you have got a former friend or foe ; 
 
 But after being fired at once or twice, 
 
 The ear becomes more Irish, and less nice." 
 
 To-day being the anniversary of the birth of 
 Washington, the ensign and pennant of the Osceola 
 have been flying in the breeze since daylight this 
 morning. At meridian, a salute with small-arms 
 was fired by the passengers in honor of the day, 
 and several National airs were played by the " El 
 Dorado Band." During the afternoon, speeches 
 appropriate to the occasion were delivered by five 
 of the passengers. The jubilee was kept up until 
 
CAPTAIISr FAIEFOWL AND POTATOES. 47 
 
 a late hour in the evening. Distance sailed, 120 
 miles. Lat. 3° 32'. Therm, at M. 84°. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 23. — Fair wind continues. Brig 
 making seven knots an hour. In compliance with 
 the Captain's request, I have to-day written out a 
 list of provisions for thirty-six steerage passengers 
 for seventeen weeks, as per scale of U. S. Naval 
 rations, and, on our arrival at Rio, he has promised 
 to purchase such provisions as are deficient, in order 
 to complete the list. An altercation occurred this 
 morning between the Captain and several of the 
 steerage passengers in relation to their ration of 
 Irish potatoes. The Captain and steerage passen- 
 gers are continually at loggerheads. Scarcely a day 
 passes without a shindy being kicked up between 
 them. Saw two vessels to-day to leeward; one a 
 brig bound south, the other a Belgian bark home- 
 ward bound. Distance sailed, 200 miles. Lat. 
 5° 43'. Therm, at M. 84°. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 24. — The atmosphere is clear to- 
 day, and the weather as balmy as a June day in 
 Yankee land. The trade wind is wafting us along 
 at the rate of eight knots an hour. The skirmish 
 that commenced yesterday between the Captain and 
 the steerage passengers, in relation to potatoes, as- 
 sumed a more warlike aspect this morning, and the 
 old skipper has given orders to the cook to cook no 
 more potatoes for the steerage passengers. He also 
 said he would throw the potatoes overboard rather 
 than have them served to the steerage messes. 
 This last straw has broken the camel's back, and a 
 spirit of indignation prevails throughout the brig in 
 
48 CAPTAIN FAIEFOWL A SEA-TYBANT. 
 
 regard to Captain Fairfowl's treatment of the steer- 
 age passengers. He is a sea-tyrant, and totally 
 unfit to command a passenger vessel. The dinner 
 for the steerage passengers to-day consisted of boiled 
 codfish and hard tach — all told ! If a more rascally 
 dinner was ever placed before a like number of 
 Christians when on a short allowance of water in a 
 tropical climate, with the thermometer at 85° in the 
 shade, and when surrounded with provisions in 
 abundance, I have yet to learn what it consisted of. 
 
 The truth of the matter is, there is the d to 
 
 pay, and no Irish potatoes to cancel the debt! 
 Distance sailed, 173 miles. Lat. 8° 21'. Therm, 
 at M. 85°. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 25. — The trade winds continued 
 throughout last night and this forenoon. Sunday 
 has proved a very lucky day to me ever since leav- 
 ing Philadelj)hia. Two weeks ago to-day, I was 
 presented with a Bible, and to-day a fellow-passen- 
 ger of the name of Patterson, a relative, I presume, 
 of Billy P. of pugilistic memory, presented me with 
 an Episcopal Prayer-Book, which I have been read- 
 ing nearly all day. Should I have the good luck 
 to obtain a Hymn Book before reaching California, 
 I shall, on my arrival in that far-off" land, possess 
 the requisite documents for commencing the pro- 
 fession of itinerant preacher. This afternoon, one 
 of the steerage passengers shot a ganet as it was 
 flying over the brig, but it fell overboard and was 
 lost. The ganet is of the fish-hawk genus, and in 
 size and color of plumage resembles that bird very 
 closely. The potato war that raged with so much 
 
A LATE DINNER. 49 
 
 fury yesterday, has gradually subsided. Distance 
 sailed, 163 miles, Lat. 10° 33'. Therm, at M. 84°. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 26. — Our water, whicli has been 
 remarkably good until within the past few days, is 
 undergoing the process of fermentation, which ren- 
 ders it very unpalatable. The potato war broke 
 out again to-day, in consequence of no dinner being 
 cooked for the steerage passengers. The circum- 
 stance was reported to the Captain, who imputed 
 the fault to the cook, and he in return swore point- 
 blank that he had received no orders to cook dinner 
 for the steerage passengers ! The dinner, however, 
 was ordered to be cooked, and, at the fashionable 
 hour of four o'clock, P. M., we dined on bean soup 
 and pork, confident in the belief that a late dinner 
 was better than no dinner at all. The brig has 
 been steering her course to-day at the rate of seven 
 knots an hour. During the day we have sighted 
 four vessels ; two bound north-east, and with one, 
 an American whaler, homeward bound, we ex- 
 changed colors. One of the other vessels was bound 
 south-east, for the Cape of Good Hope ; the other 
 was a bark, bound north-east, with her we ex- 
 changed colors, but could not make out her nation- 
 ality. Distance sailed, 170 miles. Lat. 12° 50'. 
 Therm, at M. 84°. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 27. — The wind has been very light 
 to-day, causing the brig to " make haste very 
 slowly." During the last three days all hands have 
 been elated with the idea of reaching E,io on Sun- 
 day next, but we shall most certainly be disap- 
 pointed unless favored with a stronger breeze than 
 
50 A NEW GAME. 
 
 that of to-day. We are at this time 900 miles 
 north-east of Rio, yet an eight-knot breeze would 
 waft us there in five days very easily. Some old 
 sails have been spread above our heads to-day as a 
 substitute for an awning, and the passengers have 
 been amusing themselves by playing cards, domi- 
 noes, backgammon, checkers, and reading, writing, 
 singing, fiddling and dancing. The Captain being 
 asleep and the first mate ofi" duty, no observation 
 was taken at meridian to-day ! To relieve the 
 tedium of the voyage, the passengers have intro- 
 duced a new game this afternoon — pitching pennies, 
 and while I am writing, the pennies are rattling on 
 the deck over my head. Distance sailed, j)er log, 
 170 miles. Therm, at M. 86°. Shades of Lucifer ! 
 it has been hot to-day. If I could only divest my- 
 self of flesh and sit in my bones for an hour or so, 
 wouldn't it be altogether lovely ? 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 28. — Last day of February and 
 fifty-three days at sea! Eio not reached yet. Since 
 sunrise, this morning, the brig has been rolling 
 lazily along, scarcely- making three knots an hour, 
 Avhich does not look much like reaching E,io this 
 week. Captain Fairfowl has experienced a very 
 sudden change of heart ! Yesterday afternoon full 
 naval rations, with the excejDtion of cheese, were 
 served to the steerage passengers, for the first time 
 since leaving Philadelphia. "We received no cheese 
 for the very best of reasons — there was none on 
 board the brig. The Captain has promised the 
 steerage passengers full naval rations when they 
 arrive at Eio, if the articles of which we are defi- 
 
THE cook's devil. 51 
 
 cient can be had in that port. Among the rations 
 served out yesterday, were butter, pickles and vine- 
 gar, the first tasted during the passage. 
 
 Our cook is possessed of a devil as large as a 
 ground-hog. The soup for the steerage passengers 
 was served up to-day in the following novel man- 
 ner : A large boiler, from the galley, was placed in 
 the lee gangway, exposed to the broiling rays of the 
 sun, and the passengers were called to help them- 
 selves as best they could. This scene reminds me 
 of one witnessed in a Spanish barracks, at Port 
 Mahon, in the Mediterranean, where the soldiers 
 were marched up to a large kettle of soup, and the 
 foremost after partaking of three spoonfuls fell 
 back, and the person next to him advanced for his 
 share of the spoils, and so on in turn, until all were 
 served. 
 
 This morning, a committee of three, consisting of 
 Dr, George Guier, Jr., T. B. Butcher and S. C. 
 Upham, was appointed by the passengers to wait 
 on Captain Fairfowl, state their grievances, and 
 request that they be remedied by him on the arrival 
 of the Osceola in Bio. At three o'clock, P. M., 
 the committee had an interview with the Captain, 
 and he acceded to the following propositions : 
 
 On the arrival of the Osceola in Rio, a waiter 
 shall be shipped to attend to the wants of the first 
 and second cabin passengers; a galley shall be 
 erected and a cook shipped exclusively for the 
 steerage passengers; a table shall also be fitted 
 up in the steerage for their especial use and benefit, 
 and stores shall be purchased to complete the full 
 
52 GAMBLING FOE MONKEYS. 
 
 naval ration, which shall be served regularly there- 
 after. Potatoes shall be served alike to cabin 
 and steerage passengers. The committee are to 
 be allowed the privilege of seeing that the stores 
 purchased for the vessel are of a good quality, and 
 that the other arrangements are carried into effect 
 before sailing from E,io. Distance sailed, 169 
 miles. Lat. 16° 65'. Therm, at M. 85°. 
 
 Thursday, March 1. — During yesterday and 
 to-day the Osceola has been bowling along with 
 square yards, and studding-sails set below and aloft. 
 Gambling has again broken out on board the brig 
 — this time, in the form of an epidemic. Poker, 
 monte and " rattle-and-snap " have been the order 
 of the day during the past week, and to-day, by 
 way of change, two rafl9.es came off, one for a gold 
 guard-chain, and the other for a gold watch. Both 
 prizes were won by the "gentlemen of honor," who 
 are to partake of pistols and coffee for two on their 
 arrival in Rio. The forward cabin and steerage 
 passengers have been playing cards and dominoes 
 for dinners, oranges and monkeys, to be purchased 
 in Rio by the losing parties. If the bets are all 
 paid, there will be a scarcity of the raw material in 
 the monkey market. A vessel was reported from 
 the maintop this morning, bound north. Distance 
 sailed, 173 miles. Lat. 19° 21'. Tiierm. at M. 87°. 
 
 Friday, March 2. — This morning the rain poured 
 down in torrents, accompanied by thunder and 
 lightning. Just before the storm commenced two 
 jack-o'-lanterns paid us a visit. One was stationed 
 on the maintop-gallant-yard-arm, and the other 
 
MESSElfGEES FKOM LAND. 53 
 
 on the fore-truck, where they remained until van- 
 quished by the rain-storm. The storm has been 
 succeeded by a calm, and disappointment is de- 
 picted in the countenances of all on board. 
 
 Early this morning a brown butterfly and a 
 small land-bird came on board, and their visit was 
 hailed with pleasure by all hands. The butterfly 
 was retained a prisoner, but the little bird, after 
 fluttering about the masts and rigging a few mo- 
 ments, bade us adieu, and turning his head in the 
 direction of the land, was soon lost to view. During 
 to-day the surface of the water has been covered 
 with a green substance, not unlike that which may 
 be seen on a frog-pond. The sperm-whale is said 
 to subsist on this floating scum. If so, I imagine 
 they will never be troubled with dyspepsia or gout 
 in consequence of high diet. This afternoon a sail 
 was reported on our weather-bow, heading the same 
 direction with ns. Distance sailed, 130 miles. Lat. 
 21° 15'. Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Saturday, March 3. — Another severe rain-storm 
 at three o'clock this morning. At the commence- 
 ment of the rain several of the passengers were 
 asleep on top of the after-cabin, but they were soon 
 compelled to take up their beds and walk. The 
 storm was succeeded by an eight-knot breeze, 
 which we have carried all day. Should this breeze 
 continue until eight o'clock to-morrow morning, we 
 shall make Cape Frio, which is seventy miles to 
 the northward of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Two of the passengers, carpenters by profession, 
 have been engaged during the day constructing a 
 
54 NEARING CAPE FEIO. 
 
 galley for tlie use of the steerage passengers, which, 
 when completed and manned by a competent cook, 
 will add much to their comfort. Distance sailed, 
 116 miles. Lat. 22° 28'. Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Sunday, March 4. — A dead calm prevailed 
 throughout last night and to-day. Went on deck 
 this morning at six o'clock and saw Cape Frio 
 directly ahead, about thirty miles distant. To the 
 leeward of us lie the Papagayos, Anchor and St. 
 Ann's Islands, Cape Busies, St. John's Hill and 
 Cape St. Thomas. Caj)e Frio, looming up in the 
 distance, recalled vividly to mind recollections of 
 my boyhood's home, in consequence of its close 
 resemblance to the Camel's Hump, one of the 
 highest peaks of the Green Mountain range. 
 
 During the afternoon the brig has drifted so near 
 the shore that the light-house on Cape Frio can 
 easily be discerned without the aid of a glass. A 
 half-dozen vessels can be seen from our deck, 
 standing in the same direction with us. A large 
 green turtle was seen on our weather-bow early 
 this morning, about thirty yards distant, making 
 toward us with head erect. When within fifteen 
 yards of the brig he bade us adieu by shaking his 
 head and 
 
 " Diving down below, down below." 
 
 Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 23° 03'. Therm, 
 at M. 80°. 
 
 Monday, March 6. — Last night a light breeze 
 sprang up from the north-west, which enabled us 
 to double Cape Frio. At daylight this morning 
 
GETTING EEADY FOB EIO. 55 
 
 the wind died away, and during the day we have 
 been rolling about within thirty miles of the harbor 
 of Rio, surrounded by half a dozen vessels similarly 
 situated. The highlands and mountains of Brazil 
 can be seen along the horizon in the direction of 
 E.io, as far as the eye can scan, and from our main- 
 royal-yard can be seen the Sugar Loaf, a high 
 conical-shaped promontory near the entrance to the 
 harbor. 
 
 The passengers have been busily engaged to-day, 
 shaving, shearing and clipping, which has called 
 into requisition all the razors, scissors, hair-dyes, 
 oils and pomades that can be mustered. They are 
 all desirous of captivating the dark-eyed senoritas 
 on their arrival in Rio. In consequence of the dis- 
 appointment occasioned by the Osceola's not reach- 
 ing Rio to-day, two of our passengers have adopted 
 the whisky treatment in order to drown their sor- 
 rows. Whether they will succeed in calming their 
 troubled spirits remains to be seen, but they have 
 succeeded in making themselves uproariously 
 drunk. 
 
 We spoke a Brazilian brig this afternoon, bound 
 out of Rio for Pernambuco, with an assorted cargo. 
 Distance sailed, six miles/ Lat. 23° 09'. Therm, 
 at M. 82°. 
 
 Tuesday, March 6. — At nine o'clock last night 
 we made the light on Razor Island, at the entrance 
 of the harbor of Rio. We continued our course 
 toward the light until two o'clock this morning, 
 when the wind died away and left us within three 
 miles of a rock-bound shore, which was being lashed 
 
56 AT ANCHOR IN THE HARBOR. 
 
 furiously by the angry waves. Fortunately, the 
 tide set us off shore, and at daylight the roaring of 
 the breakers was scarcely audible, although the 
 coast for many miles in extent was distinctly in 
 view. Soon after daylight a light breeze sprang 
 up, which enabled us to steer direct for the entrance 
 to the harbor of Rio, which we entered at four 
 o'clock, P. M., and after passing Fort Santa Cruz 
 on the right and the battery at the base of the 
 Sugar Loaf on the left, we dropped anchor about 
 one and a half miles below the principal landing of 
 the city, at five o'clock, P. M. While passing up 
 the harbor, we spoke the bark Elvira, of BoMon, 
 bound out for San Francisco, with sixty-three 
 passengers. Suspended from her main-stay, were 
 several bunches of bananaSj which looked very in- 
 viting, as I had not tasted fruit of any description 
 for more than forty days. As we passed Fort 
 Santa Cruz, we were hailed in broken English by 
 a Portuguese official, who thrust his curly head 
 above the ramparts and bellowed through a dilapi- 
 dated tin trumpet in a Boanergean voice. What 
 he said, we knew not and cared as little, and the 
 reply of our Captain was probably received with 
 like indifference. The custom of hailing vessels 
 from this fort is 
 
 " More tonored in the breach than in the observance." 
 
 The scene presented from the deck of a vessel on 
 entering the harbor of Rio de Janeiro is unrivaled. 
 The most romantic imagination can picture nothing 
 more magnificent than this beautiful harbor, sur- 
 
li 
 
 1 
 
PASSENGERS GO ASHOKE. 69 
 
 rounded by innumerable conical hills clothed to 
 their summits with luxuriant tropical verdure, and 
 the valleys dotted with beautiful white villas stand- 
 ing out in bold relief and contrast with the eternal 
 green of the hills. Our anchor was scarcely down, 
 before the news-boat came alongside. Soon after, 
 we were visited by the Port Physician and the 
 Custom-house o£&cer. They had scarcely left us, 
 before half a dozen shore-boats were alongside 
 manned by half-naked negroes and Portuguese. 
 The boats were soon filled to their utmost capacity 
 by the passengers — scarcely a dozen remaining on 
 board — and the word vamose being given, we soon 
 passed the guard-ship and were landed on shore at 
 the foot of Palace Square. 
 
 Immediately after landing, I went by invitation 
 to the counting-house of Mr. Philip Hue, grocer 
 and wine merchant. No. 14 Eua Direita, where I 
 wrote letters to my friends in the United States. 
 A mail-bag was to leave on the following day, on 
 board the bark Hope, Captain Hall, bound for 
 Philadelphia. Having finished my correspondence, 
 I repaired to the Hotel Pharoux, accompanied by 
 three friends, and ordered supper for four. The 
 supper, consisting of cold chicken, coffee and rolls, 
 was soon dispatched and the bill called for, which 
 was presented by a very pretty French bar-maid. 
 On examining the bill, I was thunder-struck ! It 
 footed up, as I supposed, seven dollars and eighty 
 cents ! I handed the bill to my companions, who 
 exclaimed, simultaneously, " robbers ! pirates I vil- 
 lains !" I inquired for the proprietor of the hotel. 
 
60 THE riKST DAY IN EIO. 
 
 for the purpose of ascertaining tlie price of chickens 
 by the dozen. If they were two dollars each cooked, 
 I desired to learn the price of the raw material/ 
 The landlord soon made his appearance, and an 
 explanation followed which soon placed matters in 
 their true light. Our bill was four millreis and 780 
 reis, instead of $7.80, being about sixty-two cents 
 each, but enough for cold chicken and coffee. There 
 are at the present time in Eio fully one thousand 
 Americans belonging to California passenger vessels, 
 which has caused the boatmen, hotel and livery- 
 stable keepers to increase their tariff of prices fully 
 one hundred per cent. Not wishing to pay fifty 
 cents for the privilege of sleeping on the soft side 
 of a billiard table, I went on board the brig at 
 eleven o'clock, P. M., not overly elated with life in 
 Eio. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 City of Rio de Janeiro — Visit to the market — Mode of nursing 
 children in Eio — The Passeio Publico — Eare plants and 
 flowers — Butchery of Santa Lucia — View of the city from 
 Telegraph Hill — ^The Theatre San Januaria — Trick of the 
 manager — A night on a dilapidated sofa — Emperor's church 
 — Interior decorations — Yankee mercantile house in Eio — 
 Visit to Praya Grande — The Frenchman and his orange 
 grove — Visit to the Navy Yard — Scene at the guard- 
 house — Convent of St. Benedict — Funeral ceremony — Mode 
 of interment. 
 
 Wednesday, March 7. — "Went on shore at eight 
 o'clock, A. M., and after breakfasting at the Hotel 
 Pharoux, visited the market-house, situated on the 
 north side of Palace Square. The walls of the 
 market are composed of stone, rough-cast, and the 
 interior forms a hollow square. There are three 
 arched gateways, or entrances, the principal of 
 which, fronting Palace Square, is surmounted by 
 an astronomical globe bearing a crown and cross, 
 the Brazilian coat of arms. The eastern portion of 
 the market is occupied by the fish-mongers, and on 
 their stalls is displayed the greatest variety of the 
 finny tribe I have ever seen, and I question whether 
 the fish-market of Rio is excelled in variety by any 
 other in the world. In the northern and western 
 portions of the market are exposed for sale tropical 
 fruits in all their varieties, and vegetables of various 
 
 (61) 
 
62 SUBSTITUTE FOK CEADLES AND JUMPERS. 
 
 kinds. Most of the stalls are attended by female 
 slaves, many of whom have their little ones lashed 
 to their backs with a strip of cotton cloth. The 
 little pickaninnies remain as quiet in this position 
 
 MODE OF NUESING CHILDREN IN EIO. 
 
 as would an American child in a cradle or baby- 
 jumper, and allow their mammas to perform their 
 avocations without hindrance. 
 
 After having spent two or three hours in the 
 market, I sauntered down toward the southern part 
 of the city and visited the Passeio Publico, a beau- 
 tiful square inclosed by a substantial stone wall ten 
 feet high. At the entrance, which is surmounted by 
 a marble bust of the late queen. Donna Maria I, were 
 
THE PASSEIO PUBLICO. 63 
 
 stationed two guards, to whom I tipped my Panama 
 on entering, and walked leisurely about for an hour, 
 viewing the trees, plants and flowers growing here 
 in all their splendor. Among the trees under which 
 I strolled were the genepa, tamarind, casuarina, 
 bread-fruit, joboticaba and cocoa ; and among the 
 rare plants I noticed the spiral aloe unfolding its 
 long sword-shaped leaves. The flowers, of which 
 there were many rare and beautiful specimens, were 
 in square beds neatly arranged, and surrounded by 
 a light and tasteful iron railing. Between the stairs 
 leading to the terrace, at the southern extremity of 
 the Passeio Publico, is a granite fountain standing 
 on the backs of two huge brazen crocodiles. The 
 terrace was decked with numerous urns and busts, 
 and at the fountain a little leaden angel held by the 
 tail a turtle of the same metal, from whose distended 
 mouth issued a stream of pure fresh water into a 
 marble reservoir beneath. On either side of the 
 fountain, a little to the northward, is a triangular 
 obelisk of granite, about thirty feet high, on which 
 is the following inscription : "Au saudad de Rio — 
 au amor publico" " To the health of Kio, and to 
 the public love." Around the southern wall of the 
 terrace are marble seats, the wall above being inlaid 
 with variegated porcelain. At each end of the ter- 
 race is an octangular-shaped tower about thirty feet 
 high; the basement and space between the two 
 towers being a tessellated marble pavement of much 
 beauty. 
 
 From the Passeio Publico, I went to the butchery 
 of Santa Lucia, a block of low buildings bordering 
 
64 DESCEIPTION OF EIO. 
 
 on the harbor, about half a mile above the Passeio 
 Publico. At this place is slaughtered all the meat 
 for the consumption of the city and its suburbs. 
 At the time I was at the butchery, eleven o'clock, 
 A. M., all the beeves for that day, about two hun- 
 dred, had been killed, and the knights of the knife 
 and steel were busily engaged divesting them of 
 their hides. The butchers were all slaves, and 
 among them I noticed several drivers with pointed 
 sticks, with which they prodded those that were 
 inclined to lag behind. The beef was carried on 
 the heads of slaves to the carts of customers waiting 
 in front of the butchery. I next went to the Hotel 
 de Norte, where I partook of a tolerable dinner, for 
 which I paid seventy-five cents. After dinner, ac- 
 companied by four or five friends, I visited Tele- 
 graph Hill, from which I had a fine view of the 
 city, harbor and surrounding country. From this 
 elevation, the scenery, as far as the eye can scan, is 
 the most magnificent I have ever witnessed. Groves 
 of oranges, limes, bananas and tamarinds meet the 
 eye in every direction and perfume the air with 
 their fragrant odors. 
 
 The city of Kio is situated on the west side of the 
 Rio de Janeiro, or River of January, about ten miles 
 from its mouth or entrance into the ocean, and is 
 surrounded on three sides by a range of conical hills, 
 most of which are covered to their summits with 
 fruits, flowers and luxuriant herbage. In the dim 
 distance can be seen the Organ Mountains, raising 
 their majestic heads far above the clouds as if eager 
 to kiss the blue vault of heaven. 
 
A VISIT TO THE THEATBE. 67 
 
 E,io is very compactly built, and with its suburbs 
 contains nearly as many inhabitants as New York, 
 but does not occupy as much ground as Philadel- 
 phia. The streets, which are narrow, mostly cross 
 each other at right angles. There are in the city 
 several public squares, or palazas, the principal of 
 which are the Palace Square and the Campo Santa 
 Anna, in each of which there is a public fountain, 
 composed of granite and surmounted by the globe, 
 crown and cross, the Brazilian coat of arms. The 
 Sua de Ouvidor, the Broadway of Eio, is scarcely 
 three paces wide, without curb or sidewalks. The 
 buildings are composed of stone, with tile roofs, the 
 walls rough-cast, and generally two stories high. 
 In this city, as well as in all Catholic countries, 
 the cathedrals, convents and nunneries attract the 
 attention of strangers. I have to-day visited sev- 
 eral of these institutions, and the cowled monks and 
 veiled nuns have brought vividly to mind scenes 
 from the " Mysteries of Udolpho " and the " Chil- 
 dren of the Abbey." The palaces of the Emperor 
 are externally by far the most beautiful edifices in 
 the city or suburbs. 
 
 In the evening I visited the theatre San Janua- 
 ria, for the express purpose of seeing the Emperor 
 and Empress of Brazil ; but, for reasons best known 
 to themselves, they did not appear in their box to 
 be gazed at by the los Americanos. The first part 
 of the entertainment consisted of feats on the tight- 
 rope by the far-famed Ravel family, after which 
 was performed a pantomime by the stock company, 
 which amused me very much. The after-piece 
 
68 A VISIT TO THE EMPEEOk's CHTJECH. 
 
 was a comedy, in the Portuguese language, not one 
 word of which was intelligible to me. At the close 
 of the performance I went to a public-house near 
 by, kept by a German, where I invested fifty cents 
 for the privilege of trying to sleep on a dilapidated 
 sofa until daylight. 
 
 Thursday, March 8. — This morning, after break- 
 fasting at the Hotel de Universe, I visited the 
 Emperor's church, on the west side of E-ua Direita, 
 near the palace. An arched causeway or passage 
 leads from the palace to the church, through which 
 the Emperor, Empress and suite are admitted to 
 mass. Externally, the church has a very dingy 
 appearance, but its interior arrangements are more 
 pleasing to the eye. As I crossed the threshold 
 the first object that met my eye was one of the 
 emperor's guards, whose complexion was a shade 
 lighter than the ace of spades, with a musket at 
 his shoulder, and stationed near the altar, at which 
 were a dozen priests and friars, with shaven heads 
 and black gowns, ducking and bobbing around a 
 large silver crucifix, placed in front of a wax statue 
 of Him who died to atone for the sins of the world. 
 Worshipers of all ages, complexions and conditions 
 were kneeling about the church and around the 
 altar, there being no seats, saying mass. The 
 walls and ceiling of the church are elaborately 
 carved and handsomely gilded, and on each side 
 are niches, occupied by statues of the various saints 
 of the calendar. Around the church walls, near 
 the ceiling, are suspended in gilt frames pictures of 
 
A CUBIOSITY SHOP. 69 
 
 the apostles and scriptural paintings, several of 
 wliicli were executed by the old masters. 
 
 At ten o'clock, A. M., at the solicitation of Mr. 
 Howell, our first mate, I accompanied him to the 
 office of the American consul, for the purpose of 
 hearing the charges to be preferred against him by 
 Captain Fairfowl. After listening to the charges 
 and the mate's defense, the consul discharged him 
 from the brig. The captain and passengers of the 
 ship Pacific, from New York, now in this port, are 
 at loggerheads, and to the great joy of the passen- 
 gers, the consul has given Captain Tibbets his 
 " walking papers." 
 
 During the forenoon I visited the store of Messrs. 
 Southworth & Sands, of New York, who have 
 recently established themselves in E,io. The junior 
 partner, is the son of Dr. Sands, of sarsaparilla 
 fame, and their store is a curiosity-shop to the 
 natives, it being a receptacle of all kinds of Yankee 
 notions, from a jew's-harp to a Troy-built omnibus! 
 With the gentlemanly proprietors of this establish- 
 ment I spent an hour very agreeably, examining 
 their stock of notions and chatting about matters in 
 the United States. 
 
 In the afternoon it commenced raining, and after 
 purchasing a few articles of tinware, for which I 
 paid three times their value in the United States, I 
 concluded to go on board the brig. The market 
 being on my route to the landing, I purchased a 
 handkerchief full of oranges at half a cent each, 
 which fully made up the loss incurred on tinware. 
 On arriving at the landing I was completely sur- 
 
70 A PLEASANT EXCUKSION. 
 
 rounded by the boatmen, anxious to row me off to 
 the brig. I paid an old Portuguese five " dumps," 
 a copper coin a trifle larger than an American dollar, 
 to take me on board the Osceola, where I remained 
 during the remainder of the afternoon and night. 
 
 Friday, March 9. — I went on shore at eight 
 o'clock, A. M., and after breakfasting at the Hotel 
 Pharoux, joined a party of friends who were about 
 visiting Praya Grande, a delightful little village on 
 the east side of the harbor and directly opposite the 
 city of Rio. The preliminaries for our departure 
 being arranged, we went to the ticket office at the 
 steamboat pier, purchased tickets, fare two dumps, 
 and seating ourselves on board the boat, were landed 
 in thirty minutes at the south or lower landing of 
 Praya Grande. On board the boat were several Bra- 
 zilian ladies and gentlemen with their children and 
 servants. After landing we strolled along the beach 
 toward the northern part of the town, passing on 
 the way orange groves and several beautiful cottages. 
 From one of the latter issued the tones of a piano, 
 which brought vividly to mind, 
 
 " Home, sweet home.'' 
 
 Passing a caf(^, we were hailed in English by a dap- 
 per little gentlemen, who scraped and bowed like a 
 French dancing-master. We entered his cafd, and 
 after drinking a bottle of claret wine, engaged him 
 as guide to accompany us during the remainder of 
 the day. At the foot of a mountain, at the extreme 
 northern part of the town, we entered, by invitation, 
 the garden of a Frenchman, once a resident of the 
 
PXJECHASING SYRUPS AND JELLIES. 71 
 
 United States, but of late years a sojourner in Brazil. 
 Having passed through, the garden, fragrant with 
 the sweet odors of tropical flowers, we visited an 
 orange grove attached thereto, containing upwards 
 of a thousand orange, lime, lemon and pitanga trees, 
 laden with ripe and luscious fruit, of which we were 
 invited to partake freely, "without money and with- 
 out price." That scriptural order was religiously 
 obeyed ! On leaving the orange grove, we passed 
 a wash and spring-house, in which was a lusty wench 
 elbow deep in soap-suds, with a little yellow-skin 
 lashed to her back, who rolled up his white eyes 
 and grinned a ghastly smile as we passed by him. 
 
 After leaving the cottage of the Frenchman, we 
 stopped at a cafe and lunched on coffee, rolls and 
 rancid butter. Pricethirty-eight cents each. Being 
 ready to resume our peregrinations, we looked for 
 our guide, and were informed by the proprietor of 
 the caf6 that he had vamosed, for the purpose of 
 enjoying his accustomed after-dinner siesta. During 
 the afternoon we visited St. Domingo, the southern 
 suburb of Praya Grande, for the purpose of pur- 
 chasing syrups and jellies, which we were told were 
 manufactured by a confectioner at that place. We 
 strolled around until nearly night before we found 
 the syrup and jelly establishment. Every one of 
 whom we inquired seemed to put us on the wrong 
 track. The jelly shop was kept by a French lady 
 who had resided in New York and Philadelphia, 
 and who spoke the English language fluently. We 
 purchased about twenty dollars' worth of her com- 
 modities at very reasonable prices. We now char- 
 
72 A VISIT TO THE NAVY YARD. 
 
 tered a sail-boat, and after placing our goods on 
 board, bade tKe Frencb lady adieu, and went on 
 board the brig well satisfied with the first day spent 
 in Praya Grande. 
 
 Saturday, March 10. — I went on shore this morn- 
 ing for the purpose of visiting the Brazilian Navy 
 Yard, convent of St. Benedict and other places 
 of interest. At nine o'clock, A. M., accompanied 
 by a party of friends, I passed up the Bua Direita, 
 crossed the Eua Piscadore, entered the Navy Yard 
 gate, and was soon in the midst of ship-carpenters, 
 blacksmiths, boat-builders, armorers and machinists. 
 The Navy Yard is of an oblong form and occupies 
 about as much ground as the United States Navy 
 Yard at Philadelphia. There is but one ship-house 
 in the yard, where is being constructed a sloop of war 
 which I learned had been on the stocks for three 
 years. In the boat-shed they were building several 
 boats, some of which were beautiful models. The 
 building occupied by the machinists and black- 
 smiths appeared to have been recently constructed, 
 and the lathes and other machinery were imported 
 from England, the manufacturer's name and resi- 
 dence being stamped on each article. In the black- 
 smith's shop we made the acquaintance of two of 
 the workmen who spoke the English language — one 
 a Scotchman, and the other a German, both of 
 whom had visited the United States. We next visited 
 the shot and shell foundry, in which we saw several 
 tons of shot just turned out of the moulds. In the 
 armory, the workmen were busily engaged manu- 
 facturing fire-arms for the use of the soldiers and 
 
VISIT TO THE CONVEXT OP ST. BENEDICT. 73 
 
 marines of the Brazilian service. As we were about 
 passing througli the yard-gate on our return, my 
 attention was arrested by two females seated on the 
 ground, a few yards to the left, in front of a one- 
 story stone building with grated doors and windows. 
 
 On approaching them we learned by gestures 
 that the building was a guard-house, and two of its 
 inmates were their husbands. I looked through 
 the grated door and saw several prisoners lying on 
 a rough deal table, on which was standing a jug 
 of water, and by its side were two or three loaves 
 of brown bread. This scene having convinced me 
 that there were persons in this wicked world whose 
 conditions were worse than my own, I turned from 
 the prison and the females seated at the door, and 
 ascending the hill of San Bempo by a crooked and 
 roughly-paved walk, soon stood before the convent 
 of St. Benedict. 
 
 The St. Benedict is one of the oldest convents in 
 Bio, having been erected in 1761, as I learned from 
 an inscription over the door of the main entrance. 
 On entering the convent, we were accosted by a 
 monk who beckoned us to proceed to the second 
 floor, which we reached by a heavy, antiquated 
 flight of stairs, and passing to the left through a 
 long, dimly-lighted hall, entered the choir, where 
 we met a servant dusting the seats occupied by the 
 jolly fat friars. After examining the choir, the 
 walls of which were nearly covered with scriptural 
 paintings by the old masters, we went into the side 
 galleries, from which we had a fine view of the in- 
 terior of the church with its richly gilded and carved 
 
74 A FUNEKAL. 
 
 mouldings, wliicli lined the walls and ceiling, and 
 displayed vines loaded with grapes and mingled 
 with flowers. Standing in niches in the walls were 
 statues of the saints gorgeously dressed, and from 
 the frescoed ceiling were suspended two massive 
 silver lamps somewhat dusty with age. From the 
 church we passed into the courtyard, one hundred 
 and fifty feet square and covered with granite flags, 
 under which repose the dead. From the convent 
 windows we had a magnificent view of the harbor, 
 the Island of Cobras, the city, its evergreen hills, 
 the azure mountains in the distance, and the vast 
 ravines furrowing their sides. From the convent we 
 descended a zigzag path to the street, and after a 
 walk of twenty minutes, reached the Hotel Pharoux. 
 Casting my eyes in the direction of the Emperor's 
 church, I noticed a hearse drawn by six plumed 
 horses coming to a halt in front of it. Before I 
 reached the church, the gold-laced coffin had been 
 removed from the hearse and placed on a bier or 
 altar in the middle of the floor, and the corpse ex- 
 posed to view by opening the hinged lids. On each 
 side of the coffin were half a dozen priests and friars 
 in black gowns trimmed with white, holding in 
 their hands lighted wax candles four feet long and 
 two inches in diameter, the lower ends resting on 
 the tile floor and the tops inclining slightly forward. 
 There was also a long file of gentlemen dressed in 
 black bearing blazing wax candles, on each side of 
 the passage leading from the hearse to the bier, 
 although it was broad daylight ! During the fu- 
 jieral ceremony, the ofiiciating priest sprinkled holy 
 
HOLY WATEK AND QUICKLIME. 75 
 
 water over the corpse several times from a silver 
 instrument somewhat resembling a child's rattle; 
 then shook over it a censer of burning incense, 
 which diffused its odor through the church. The 
 ceremony being over, the priests retired from the 
 church, and the gentlemen in black extinguished 
 their candles and jjlaced them in a rack. Some 
 left the church ; others removed the coffin from the 
 bier and carried it into the receptacle for the dead, 
 a court attached to the church. An excavation had 
 been made in the wall, before which the coffin was 
 placed and the lids again thrown open by the sex- 
 ton. Holy water and quicklime were now thrown 
 upon the corpse by the mourners. This part of the 
 exercises being concluded, a requiem was chanted 
 and the corpse left to be placed in the hole in the 
 wall by the sexton and his black attendant. Hav- 
 ing witnessed the commencement of the ceremony, 
 curiosity prompted me to see the finale. Despite 
 the surly looks of the sexton, I remained behind, 
 with five or six other Americans, for the purpose 
 of seeing the deceased placed in his narrow cell. 
 The coffin, on being raised to the niche, was found 
 too large for admission, but, with the aid of a crow- 
 bar, it was quickly reduced in size by knocking in 
 the head-board and pressing down the lid upon the 
 breast of the corpse ! It was soon adjusted to the 
 satisfaction of the sexton, and the entrance closed 
 by a mason. 
 
 Remained on shore during the night, and slept 
 on the soft side of a billiard-table, all the beds in 
 the hotel being double-banked. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Visit to the museum — Precious stones, medals, etc. — Observ- 
 ance of the Sabbath in Kio — ^Washerwomen of the Campo 
 Santa Anna — ^Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts — ^Paint- 
 ings and sculpture — The Strangers' Burial-ground — ^Hot- 
 corn women — American ladies bound for California — The 
 Emperor's palace and garden — Visit to the latter — The 
 Emperor's juvenile sports — Second night at the theatre — 
 Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese — Slaves in Eio — 
 Arrival of gold-dust from California — Arrival of the steam- 
 ship Panama — News from home — California-bound vessels 
 in Rio. 
 
 Sunday, March 11. — This forenoon, accompanied 
 by two friends, I visited the museum, situated on 
 the eastern side of the Campo Santa Anna, which 
 is open every Sunday from ten o'clock, A. M.,, until 
 two o'clock in the afternoon — admission free. The 
 museum was founded by King John VI, in the 
 year' 1821, and is a large two-story edifice, com- 
 prising a main building and two wings. The 
 entrance is guarded by soldiers, and there are 
 attendants inside to see that no improper conduct 
 takes place. The museum contains eight commu- 
 nicating rooms. Two are devoted exclusively to 
 minerals of the empire, which are locked in taste- 
 fully-arranged mahogany cases with glass doors. 
 
 Among the minerals in the cases are ores of gold, 
 silver, copper, carbonates, muriates, phosphates and 
 
 (76) 
 
THE IMPERIAL MUSEUM. 77 
 
 sulpKurets of lead, ores of iron, jasper, agate, quartz, 
 talc, mica, coral and limestone of various kinds. 
 There are diamonds, and also crystals of white 
 transparent quartz two or three inches in length. 
 The most wonderful mineral is a crystalized quartz 
 of a hexangular shape, fifteen inches in thickness 
 and nearly three feet in length. Its weight is not 
 less than two hundred pounds. 
 
 The specimens of the animal kingdom belong 
 chiefly to the empire, and consist of the gray, black 
 and scaly ant-eater, leopard, wolf, paca, guinea-pig, 
 besides a great variety of the monkey tribe. There 
 is also a fine collection of sea-shells, bugs and but- 
 terflies. The collection of birds is very large, mostly 
 natives of Brazil. Among them may be mentioned 
 the parrot, goney, joao, grande, turdus-regius, 
 pavao of Matogosso, crax-galiata and anherma 
 unicorne, bemtivi, torecans and gulls. The Bra- 
 zilian reptiles are also largely represented, the boa 
 constrictor and coral-horned crotalus being the 
 most prominent. Two live specimens of the former 
 are at the entrance to the museum, on the first 
 floor. The specimens of fish are all dried prepara- 
 tions. 
 
 In the room containing the Chinese and Indian 
 curiosities is a cabinet of gold, silver, brass, bronze 
 and copper coins and medals. Among the latter 
 are likenesses of Marc Antony, Seneca, Cicero, 
 Francis and Maria de Medicis, Cardinal Mazarin, 
 Pope Innocent II, Henry IV of France, Marquis 
 Cornwallis, George IV, Louis XVI, Maria An- 
 toinette, Anne of Austria, Charles III of Spain, 
 
78 SUNDAY IK EIO DE JANEIRO. 
 
 Ferdinand VII, Lord Howe, and many other 
 noted personages. In one of tiie rooms is the most 
 perfect specimen of an Egyptian mummy ever ex- 
 hibited. 
 
 On my return from the museum, I noticed that 
 nearly all the stores and shops were open, and 
 business was being transacted the same as on any 
 other day of the week. Carpenters and cabinet- 
 makers were shoving the plane and saw, and the 
 sons of St. Crispin were plying the thread and 
 bristle as briskly as ever. The inhabitants of liio 
 do not keep the Sabbath more holy than any other 
 day of the week. They generally attend mass in 
 the morning, and act as fancy dictates during the 
 remainder of the day. 
 
 Understanding that there was to be a bull-fight 
 in the Campo Santa Anna in the afternoon, I re- 
 paired thither for the purpose of witnessing it, but 
 for some unexplained reason it did not take place. 
 At the fountain in the Campo Santa Anna were a 
 score of black wenches doing their week's washing, 
 and the way they made the soap-suds and shirt- 
 buttons fly was a caution to washing-machines I 
 
 Monday, March 12. — During the forenoon I 
 visited the Academy of Fine Arts, a large two- 
 storied stone edifice, to which visitors are admitted 
 free. On the first fioor are six ordinary sized 
 rooms, which lead out of a spacious hall running 
 lengthwise of the building. The walls of three of 
 the rooms are covered from floor to ceiling with 
 paintings, most of which are portraits of distin- 
 guished persons and citizens. There are several 
 
79 
 
 scriptural paintings by eminent artists. An 
 equestrian picture of Dom Pedro II, the present 
 Emperor of Brazil, and a full-length portrait of 
 one of the Empress's maids of honor are the 
 most artistic and beautiful specimens of modern 
 oil painting I have ever seen. Two of the re- 
 maining three rooms on the first floor contain 
 statuary in marble and plaster, none of which 
 deserve particular notice. On the second floor I 
 gained admission to two rooms, in one of which 
 were mahogany cases with glass lids, containing 
 the dies and medals of the empire. The other was 
 hung with portraits of monks, and friars, and 
 scriptural paintings, and had the appearance of 
 being used as a studio, as I noticed several un- 
 finished pictures on easels around the room. The 
 unfinished pictures were all copies, and several 
 compared favorably with the originals. Having 
 examined everything worthy of notice, I passed 
 the guard stationed at the door, and crossing Thea- 
 tre Square, soon entered the Rua de Ouvidor, 
 which I followed down to the Rua Direita, crossed 
 the palace square, and reached the Hotel Pharoux, 
 where I dined. 
 
 In the afternoon a party was made up, myself 
 being one of the number, to visit the Strangers' 
 Burial-ground, and the Emperor's Garden at St. 
 Christoval. Taking seats in the St. Christoval 
 omnibus, in about thirty minutes we were set down 
 near the entrance to the Strangers' Burial-ground, 
 which is situated on the southern declivity of a 
 hill facing an arm of the bay of Kio de Janeiro. 
 
80 ONE OF job's comfoeteks. 
 
 The yard is inclosed by a substantial stone wall 
 about ten feet higb, and the principal entrance is 
 through a ponderous iron gate, which was locked. 
 Our guide soon found the sexton, and we were 
 admitted. After sauntering about for an hour, 
 viewing the tombstones and monuments of those 
 who had fallen victims to disease in a foreign land, 
 we passed out of the yard, and engaging a boat on 
 the beach, were soon landed at St. Christoval. On 
 stepping from the boat, the first object that met my 
 eye was an old negro woman seated on the ground 
 near a small fire roasting Indian corn. I purchased 
 an ear, piping hot, and while eating it my thoughts 
 reverted to Philadelphia and her hot-corn vendors. 
 Passing along a little further, we met an American 
 lady and gentleman returning from the Emperor's 
 Garden. After a hearty shake of the hand all 
 around, the lady informed us that herself and hus- 
 band were passengers on board the ship Architect, 
 from New Orleans bound for San Francisco. She 
 also informed us that there were five other lady 
 passengers on board the Architect, two of whom 
 had lost their husbands by cholera since their de- 
 parture from New Orleans. I requested her to 
 console the widows with the fact that they were 
 bound for a country where wives were scarce and 
 husbands plenty. I have no positive proof that my 
 message was delivered ; but I had the consolation 
 of knowing that, as one of Job's comforters, I did 
 my duty. Each bidding the other adieu, and 
 hoping to meet again in California, we parted, the 
 lady and gentlemen returning to the city, and we 
 
THE EMPEEOK'S GAEDEN. 81 
 
 continuing our walk toward the garden. We soon 
 reached the palace yard or square, in which were 
 lounging fifteen or twenty of the Emperor's guards 
 in undress uniform. The palace originally con- 
 sisted of a main building and two wings. The 
 main building has recently been razed to the ground 
 for the purpose of erecting on its site another of a 
 different style of architecture, which, when com- 
 pleted, will be an imposing stone structure, four 
 stories high with a tile roof. 
 
 The garden attached to the palace is the most 
 beautiful in the vicinity of E,io, and is about five 
 miles in circumference. Near the palace is a small 
 lake, on the bosom of which the Emperor, when a 
 flaxen-haired urchin, took his first nautical lessons, 
 and the hull of his favorite yacht is still to be seen 
 at the east end of the lake, high and dry on terra 
 jirma. Through the centre of the garden runs a 
 stream of water over which is erected an aqueduct 
 of solid masonry supported by innumerable arches 
 and piers. In the garden are beautifully graveled 
 walks which cross each other at right angles, and 
 in many places are shaded on either side by rows 
 of bamboos, whose tops unite and form magnificent 
 bowers. It also contains a great variety of fruit- 
 trees and plants, among which are the pintanga, 
 cardo, maracaja, guava, banana, culambota, cocoa, 
 mango, lemon, lime, caja, breadfruit, papaw arba- 
 cate, aresa, fruto de conte, genepa, sapucaia, fig, 
 orange, palm, espinatree, legume, coffee, tea, and 
 many plants both rare and curious, natives of the 
 East Indies. 
 
82 THE EMPEKOE IN 1849. 
 
 There was also a great variety of roses in full 
 bloom, wliicli diffused a grateful fragrance through 
 the garden. As night was fast approaching, we 
 passed through the eastern gate and soon reached 
 the road leading to the city. The omnibus not 
 having arrived, we walked two miles before it over- 
 took us, then getting on board, Jehu plied his whip 
 to the mules in a lively manner, and we were soon 
 rattling over the pavements of the city. After 
 supper, four of our party, myself among the num- 
 ber, engaged a private box at the theatre, and took 
 our seats early for the purpose of witnessing the 
 entree into the royal box of their Majesties the 
 Emperor and Empress of Brazil. The Emperor's 
 box is on the same floor as the second tier of boxes, 
 and directly in front of the stage. It extends from 
 the floor of the second tier to the proscenium, and 
 has a frontage of about fifteen feet. In front was a 
 damask curtain looped up on each side, and the 
 box was surmounted by the Brazilian coat-of-arms 
 handsomely gilded. In the box were arranged 
 arm-chairs for the use of the Emperor, Empress 
 and suite. At a quarter before nine o'clock, the 
 Emperor, Empress, officers of the imperial house- 
 hold and maids of honor made their appearance, 
 the entire audience rising and remaining in that 
 position until the imperial family were seated. 
 
 The Emperor is an intelligent, modest-looking 
 young man, twenty-four years of age, fully six feet 
 high, with light-brown hair and whiskers, blue 
 eyes and florid complexion. He was dressed in a 
 plain black suit, with no other insignia of royalty 
 
TWENTY-SEVEN YEAES LATER. 83 
 
 than a star or rosette on liis left breast. He is 
 greatly beloved by his subjects, and his constant 
 endeavors to ameliorate their condition have gained 
 for him the encomiums of the civilized world. I 
 am neither a prophet nor the son of a prophet, but 
 I predict that Dom Pedro II will make a mark ou 
 the finger-board of the nineteenth century not 
 easily effaced. */ 
 
 The Empress is rather below the medium size, and 
 looks somewhat older than her liege lord. Her eyes 
 are blue and complexion light ; hair light auburn, 
 curling beautifully around her neck and falling in 
 graceful ringlets on her shoulders. Her nose is 
 large, which somewhat mars her features. When 
 walking she inclines slightly forward. She wore a 
 black satin dress with sleeves scarcely extending to 
 the elbows, the edges of which, as well as the neck, 
 were trimmed with lace edging. She wore neither 
 rings nor bracelets, and was one of the most demo- 
 cratic specimens of feminine royalty I ever expect 
 to see. The toilets of her maids of honor were 
 gotten up more elaborately. Having become weary 
 of gazing on royalty and a Portuguese pantomime, 
 I left the theatre at eleven o'clock, P. M., and en- 
 gaged lodgings for the night at the Hotel Pharoux. 
 
 [Twenty-seven years later. After the lapse of 
 more than a quarter of a century since the foregoing 
 was written, I have had the pleasure of again seeing 
 the Emperor and Empress of Brazil (this time 
 during the Centennial year in my own country), and 
 I am happy to say that my early impressions and 
 predictions have been fully verified. By his unos- 
 
S4 VIVE LA DOM PEDRO II. 
 
 tentatious and gentlemanly demeanor during his 
 brief sojourn in the United States, Dom Pedro II 
 has won "golden opinions" from all classes of men — 
 snobs excejDted! His kindness to the California- 
 bound passengers while in Rio will ever be held in 
 grateful remembrance by the author of this humble 
 tribute to a great and good man, 
 
 " The rank is but the guinea's stamp, 
 The man's the gold for a' that.'' 
 
 Yive la Dom Pedro 11/^ 
 
 Tuesday, March 13. — I went on board the Os- 
 ceola early this morning, and found the sailors 
 busily engaged breaking out the hold preparatory 
 to receiving water on board. I discovered among 
 the cargo two barrels of pilot-bread belonging to 
 myself with their heads stove in. After coopering 
 the bread barrels I went below and spent the re- 
 mainder of the day writing to friends in the United 
 States. I also wrote a communication for the JVew 
 York Herald over the signature of " S. Curtis " — 
 my Christian name — giving a brief history of our 
 voyage to this port, treatment of the passengers, 
 etc., in which I went for the owners and captain of 
 the Osceola in a lively manner, and concluded by 
 giving a list of the California passenger vessels 
 lying in the harbor of Rio. 
 
 The following passenger vessels from the United 
 States bound for California, have put into this port 
 for provisions and water, during the past three 
 months : 
 
 From New York. Ships — Sutton, 55 days; 
 
From a Plioto taken in Philadolpliia, ISTii. 
 
 DOil PEDRO II., EMPEROR OF BRAZIL. 
 
V. S. VESSELS AT EIO. 87 
 
 Christoval Colon, 51 days; jSouth Carolina, 39 days; 
 Tarolinta, 60 days ; William Ivey, 42 days ; Pacific, 
 42 days ; Apollo, 53 days. Barks — Josephine, 45 
 days ; Express, 52 days ; Harriet Newell, 55 days ; 
 Cordelia, 39 days ; Peytona, 54 days. Brigs — 3Iary 
 Stuart, 42 days ; Eliza, 48 days. Schooners — Boe, 
 
 39 days ; Olivia, 48 days ; George Emory, 43 days ; 
 Joseph Newell, 40 days ; Laura Virginia, 38 days ; 
 William G. Hachstaff, 39 days. 
 
 From Boston. Ship — Capitol, 43 days. Barks 
 — Oxford, 47 days; Maria, 57 days; Elvira, 47 
 days. Schooner — Anonyma, 38 days. 
 
 From Baltimore. Shijs — Jane Barker, 42 days. 
 Schooner — Eclipse, 47 days. 
 
 From New Orleans. Ship — Architect, 45 days. 
 
 From Norfolk, Va. Brig — John Petty, 50 days. 
 
 From New London, Conn. Ship — Mentor, 38 
 days. 
 
 From New Haven, Conn. Schooner — Montague, 
 
 40 days. 
 
 Wednesday, March 14. — During the forenoon I 
 wrote several letters for the brig's cook and steward. 
 A part of tlie brig's stores came on board this morn- 
 ing, which on examination proved to be of an in- 
 ferior quality. The hams and bologna sausages 
 were tainted and mouldy. At eleven o'clock, A. M., 
 the government water-tank came alongside, and we 
 soon filled our water-casks, barrels and buckets with 
 fresh water, which I hope will last until we reach 
 San Francisco. 
 
 A Russian bark, bound for St. Petersburg, 
 arrived in this port to-day direct from California 
 
88 BARBELS OP GOLD-DUST. 
 
 and reports eight barrels of gold-dust on board, 
 taken from the placers of the Sacramento. The 
 intelligence received by the bark corroborates all 
 j)revious accounts in relation to the extent and rich- 
 ness of the California gold-mines. All hands are 
 highly elated, and every man expects soon to be- 
 come a millionaire. The Brazilians have also been 
 attacked with the gold fever, and there are now in 
 this port several vessels up for San Francisco. 
 Fare |250. 
 
 After dinner I went on shore and deposited my 
 letters in the letter-bag of a vessel which will sail 
 for New York to-morrow. While on shore I saw 
 a negro who was afflicted with the elephantiasis, 
 one of the most loathsome diseases imaginable, but 
 quite common in this country. His left leg was 
 swollen to nearly the size of his body, and from the 
 knee downward, protruded excrescences as large as 
 English walnuts. The skin of the diseased limb 
 appeared rough and scaly, and several of the toes 
 had dropped off the foot. I saw others afflicted 
 with this disease who had lost their lips and noses. 
 
 At sundown I purchased two bottles of wine for 
 medicinal purposes and a handkerchief full of 
 oranges, and went on board the brig. 
 
 Thursday, March 15. — Ship-carpenters and sail- 
 makers have been on board to-day, caulking the 
 deck and repairing the old sails. The mechanics 
 here are mostly slaves, consequently they do not 
 work very rapidly. A Yankee mechanic would 
 perform as much labor in one day as two slaves in 
 the same length of time. The slaves in this city 
 
THE SLAVES IN KIO. 89 
 
 appear to be well treated and seem happy. I asked 
 several if they would like to return to Africa. 
 Their reply was: "Me no lihe to go bach to Africa 
 among the nigger thieves ! " The industrious slaves 
 here, as in the United States, frequently save suf- 
 ficient money to purchase their freedom. The free 
 negroes in Eio wear shoes; the slaves invariably go 
 barefooted. 
 
 I shaved myself to-day for the first time in two 
 months, and, if my looking-glass does not deceive 
 me, I look one hundred per cent, better than I did 
 before performing the tonsorial operation. Before 
 I applied the razor to my face it would have puzzled 
 a physiognomist to determine which I resembled 
 most, a man or a monkey. 
 
 In the early part of this week I purchased a 
 shot-gun, which I left with Messrs. Garrett & Co., 
 who are furnishing the sea-stores for the Osceola, 
 and they promised to obtain a permit from the cus- 
 tom-house and send it off with the stores this morn- 
 ing. The stores were sent on board the brig but 
 the gun did not accompany them. I engaged a 
 boat from along-side the brig and went ashore to 
 ascertain what had become of my gun. Mr. Garrett 
 informed me that when the stores were sent on 
 board the gun was forgotten, which he regretted 
 very much, and would send it on board the next 
 morning. Expecting to sail on the following day, 
 I concluded to run the risk of carrying the gun 
 on board myself I accordingly placed it on my 
 shoulder, walked down to the boat, was soon on 
 
90 AEEIVAL OF THE STEAMSHIP PANAMA. 
 
 board the brig and bad tbe gun safely deposited 
 under my mattress. 
 
 Friday, March 16. — It bas been raining inces- 
 santly during tbe greater part of last nigbt and to- 
 day. During tbe storm last nigbt two of our sailors 
 deserted from tbe brig, bag and baggage. Our 
 Captain is very unpopular witb tbe crew, as well 
 as witb tbe passengers, and I am fearful be will not 
 be able to sbip men in tbis port to fill tbe vacancies 
 occasioned by tbe discbarges and desertions from 
 tbe brig. We are now sbort two mates and tbree 
 men before tbe mast. 
 
 The steerage passengers have learned that their 
 table cannot be constructed unless they double- 
 bank tbe second tier of berths and stow the lower 
 tier with trunks and other baggage, in order to 
 clear a space amidships for that purpose. The 
 passengers have all agreed to this arrangement, and 
 to-morrow tbe table will be rigged up. 
 
 At one o'clock, P. M., the steamship Panama, 
 Lieutenant-Commanding Porter, twenty-six days 
 from New York, bound for San Francisco, put 
 into tbis port for the purpose of taking on board 
 coal, water and provisions. The Panama is one 
 of the line of Pacific Mail Steamers belonging to 
 Howland & Aspinwall of New York, and on her 
 arrival in the Pacific will ply between Panama and 
 the mouth of the Columbia Kiver, touching at Aca- 
 pulco, Mazatlan, San Francisco and intermediate 
 ports. By the Panama we received New York 
 papers of the 17th of February, being nearly a 
 month later than previous accounts from tbe United 
 
NEWS FKOM HOME. 91 
 
 States. The papers received were a New York 
 Herald and a Police Gaz^te, which after going the 
 round of the brig were pretty thoroughly used up. 
 Captain Fairfowl came on board about eight o'clock, 
 P. M., very much fatigued ! 
 
 Saturday, March 17. — I assisted in the steerage 
 to-day, breaking out trunks and other baggage and 
 arranging the table. On examination we find that 
 only twenty-six persons can be seated at the table at 
 the same time; therefore, first come first served will 
 be the order of exercises hereafter. We have engaged 
 one of the passengers to act in the capacity of stew- 
 ard during the remainder of the voyage, for which 
 we agree to pay him one dollar each on our arrival 
 at San Francisco. We have inaugurated our new 
 cook and new galley. The former answers our 
 expectations, but the latter has been tried and 
 found wanting. The boilers are too long. They 
 run through the plate or top of the galley so far that 
 there is not sufficient space for fuel, and unless this 
 defect is remedied we shall be compelled to eat 
 badly-cooked food until we reach San Francisco. 
 The Captain has succeeded to-day in shipping a 
 first and second mate and one man before the mast 
 which will enable us to put to sea to-morrow. The 
 following California-bound vessels, having taken on 
 board water and provisions, sailed to-day : ships, 
 Capitol and Jane Barker; brig John Petty, and 
 
 schooner Laura Virginia. 
 6 
 
CHAPTEE V. 
 
 Departure from Eio — Vessels bound for El Dorado — ^Auction 
 sale at sea — A pampero — Its consequences — Putting a little 
 whisky where it would do the most good — Hail-storm- — 
 Raffle for a monkey — Melee between a passenger and the 
 steward — School of porpoises— Sudden change in the at- 
 mosphere — Its effects — All hands on an allowance of water 
 — Horrors of a passage around Cape Horn subsiding — All- 
 Fools' Day — " The Perseverance Mining Company " — Ar- 
 ticles of agreement. 
 
 Sunday, March 18. — At nine o'clock, A. M., we 
 hove up anchor, got under way and stood out of 
 the harbor with a fair but light breeze. As we 
 passed Fort Santa Cruz, we were hailed by the 
 sentinel for the pass-word, which being given by 
 the Captain, we glided along past the Sugar-Loaf, 
 Razor Island, and were soon outside ploughing 
 along toward our port of destination. Toward 
 night-fall I went on deck for the purpose of bid- 
 ding farewell to the highlands surrounding the 
 harbor of Rio. The Sugar-Loaf and Sir Hood's 
 Nose were scarcely discernible, and the highlands 
 to the southward along the coast were fast fading 
 from view. I bade them adieu and went below 
 to construct airy castles and picture imaginary 
 scenes in the far-ofi" golden land to which I am 
 bound. 
 
 The ship Architect, bark Harriet Newell and 
 
 (92) 
 
AUCTION SALE AND A RAFFLE. Vd 
 
 brig Mary Stuart, bound for California, accom- 
 panied us to sea this morning. At sundown the 
 Architect and Mary Stuart were five or six miles 
 ahead of us, and the Harriet Newell about the same 
 distance astern. Distance sailed, 25 miles. Lat. 
 23° 05'. Therm, at M. 78°. 
 
 Monday, March 19. — Last night a fine breeze 
 sprang up from the eastward, which we have car- 
 ried during the day. When I went on deck this 
 morning the Harriet Newell was the only sail to 
 be seen, the Architect ^uXidi. Mary Stuart had, during 
 the night, left us far astern. 
 
 During the forenoon an auction sale was held by 
 one of the forward-cabin passengers for the purpose 
 of disposing of sundry lots and parcels of nuts, 
 fruits and candies, which, as caterer, he had pur- 
 chased for his mess, but several members thereof 
 being somewhat imj)ecunious, he was compelled to 
 resort to this expedient to reimburse himself for the 
 amount expended for the articles. Most of the 
 goods sold at an advance of one hundred per cent, 
 over their original cost, which left a large surplus 
 in the pocket of the purchaser. I had knocked 
 down to myself a box of raisins, five pounds of 
 almonds and three pounds of filberts. The raisins, 
 on examination, proved to be rather too highly 
 spiced with bugs and worms to suit my taste, I 
 therefore closed the box and put it up at raffle — 
 eight chances, at twenty-five cents each. I did not 
 envy the winner of the prize. I stowed the nuts in 
 my hat-box, and fiatter myself that for some time 
 to come I shall have a dessert after each dinner of 
 
94 THE NEW MATES AND THE CAPTAIN. 
 
 salt beef and hard-tack. Distance sailed, 140 miles. 
 Lat. 24° 26'. Therm, at M. 80°. 
 
 Tuesday, March 20. — During last night and to- 
 day we have been favored with an eight-knot breeze. 
 Now that the steerage passengers have a table to eat 
 oflf of, they are no better satisfied than when mess- 
 ing on pig-pens, chicken-coops and water-casks. 
 One thinks his messmate has more elbow-room 
 than himself at the table ; another, that he is not 
 treated by the steward with the same degree of 
 attention as his companion ; and others imagine 
 that a seat at the head of the table is preferable to 
 one lower down. 
 
 Early this morning the bark Harriet Newell was 
 on our lee-quarter, distant about five miles, and at 
 sundown she was so far astern that she was scarcely 
 discernible by the aid of a glass. Three or four of 
 the passengers are on the sick-list, in consequence of 
 having lived too fast while in E,io. Distance sailed, 
 184 miles. Lat. 27° 20'. Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Wednesday, March 21. — The breeze of yesterday 
 continued throughout last night and this forenoon, 
 and has placed us 200 miles nearer to San Fran- 
 cisco. The two mates shipped in Eio have 
 already become dissatisfied with the Captain, in 
 consequence of his interference with their duty 
 while in charge of the deck. I predict that both 
 will be relieved from duty before we arrive in 
 California. 
 
 At three o'clock, P. M., the western horizon 
 became suddenly overcast with black clouds, and 
 every indication of a 'pampero was visible. Stud- 
 
A PAMPEEO. 95 
 
 ding-sails were accordingly taken in, royals and top- 
 gallant-sails furled, top-sails double reefed, the 
 spanker brailed up and everything made ready for 
 the approaching gale, which was soon upon us in all 
 its fury. The rain descended in torrents, and the 
 wind burst upon us with such violence that every 
 rag of canvas was taken oif the brig and she was 
 hove to under bare poles, in which condition she 
 remained during the night. The gale was the most 
 severe that we have encountered during the pas- 
 sage, and I have no anxiety to witness another of 
 the same sort. The brig shipped heavy seas during 
 the night, which completely deluged the cabins. 
 The steerage was dry, but such another waltzing of 
 trunks and boxes, crashing of crockery and jingling 
 of tin pans, pots and spoons, I never before heard. 
 Passengers, as well as baggage and dishes, were in 
 commotion. Some of the former were gliding about 
 clothed in a single garment; others in a state of 
 nudity, genuine model artists, looking as ghastly as 
 ghosts and trembling with fear. I remained in my 
 berth, but as I could not sleep in consequence of the 
 constant rolling and pitching of the brig, consoled 
 myself by occasionally putting a little whisky where 
 I thought it would do the most good. Distance 
 sailed, 179 miles. Lat. 30° 02'. Therm, at M. 78°. 
 Thursday, March 22. — At daylight this morning 
 the storm having somewhat abated, the storm stay- 
 sail was set and the brig put before the wind. 
 Other sails were set during the forenoon, but owing 
 to the heavy sea, we have made very little progress. 
 The wind at the present writing is blowing very 
 
96 A MONKEY IN PERIL. 
 
 fresh and tlie waves are running mountain-high.. 
 During the rough weather last night the steer- 
 age galley broke loose from its fastenings, and we 
 have had great difficulty in placing it in its former 
 position, in consequence of the rolling and pitching 
 of the brig. A sail was reported on our lee bow 
 this morning, bound northward. Distance sailed, 
 30 miles. Lat. 30° 28'. Therm, at M. 76°. 
 
 Friday, March 23. — Head-winds and cross-seas 
 during the last twenty-four hours have prevented 
 our making much progress toward our port of desti- 
 nation. The pampero has been succeeded by the 
 equinoctial storm, and we may be detained in these 
 latitudes several days by adverse winds. By way 
 of variety, we were treated this forenoon to an old- 
 fashioned hail-storm. This morning, soon after the 
 cook had kindled a fire in the galley, we shipped a 
 sea forward which extinguished it so effectually 
 that it could not be rekindled for several hours. 
 This caused a late breakfast and sour looks among 
 the passengers. 
 
 While in Rio, two of our passengers purchased a 
 monkey in copartnership, and his deviltry has 
 kept them constantly at loggerheads with the Cap- 
 tain and mates. This morning his monkeyship 
 took possession of the nail locker, and the mate 
 threatened him with decapitation should he visit it 
 again. This sanguinary threat having reached the 
 ears of his owners, they informed the mate that 
 they would like to be present when the operation 
 was performed ! Distance sailed, five miles! Lat. 
 30° 23'. Therm, at M. 75°. 
 
A SHARK, NOT CAUGHT. 97 
 
 Saturday, March 24. — At two o'clock this morn- 
 ing the wind hauled around to the north, which has 
 enabled us to steer our course. The sea to-day has 
 been smoother and the brig has rolled less. We 
 are off the mouth of the River La Plata, and may 
 expect at any moment to be visited by another 
 pampero. 
 
 This afternoon the owners of the monkey came 
 to the conclusion that their pet was neither as 
 agreeable a companion nor as profitable an invest- 
 ment as they first imagined, therefore they put him 
 up at rafiie, and he was won by the first mate. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 154 miles. Lat. 32° 13'. Therm, at 
 M. 74°. 
 
 Sunday, March 25. — The wind to-day has been 
 light and baffling, and the brig has headed as many 
 different ways as there are points of the compass. 
 The weather is becoming gradually cooler, and the 
 breezes are bracing and invigorating. Large flocks 
 of gulls have been flying around the brig all day. 
 
 This afternoon a large shark, a regular man- 
 eater, was observed following the brig at the dis- 
 tance of about twenty yards, which caused a lively 
 time on board. The shark-hook not being at hand, 
 a mackerel-hook baited with pork was attached to a 
 piece of marline and thrown overboard. His shark- 
 ship, after swimming around the bait several times, 
 approached it cautiously and turning quickly on 
 his side swallowed the hook with a yard of the line 
 and disappeared beneath the water. 
 
 Considerable excitement was occasioned this after- 
 noon in consequence of a melee between one of the 
 
98 MAIN-KOYAL YAKD CAEEIED AWAY. 
 
 steerage passengers, a Philadelpliia b'hoy, and the 
 second steward. The former accused the latter of 
 mixing the duff with water from the bathing-tub, 
 which he said was 
 
 "A lie, a d infernal lie. 
 
 Upon his soul a lie !" 
 
 This somewhat excited the b'hoy's ire, and he gave 
 the steward a blow alongside his visage which caused 
 him to see stars at midday. Distance sailed, 139 
 miles. Lat. 34° 08'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Monday, March 26. — I went on deck at seven 
 o'clock, A. M., and found the brig gliding briskly 
 along with all drawing sails set. Since yester- 
 day, the water has changed from a dark green to 
 a light blue color, but whether caused by the com- 
 mingling of the water of the Rio de la Plata or 
 other causes, I am unable to state. This forenoon, 
 while below writing, I heard a tremendous huzzaing 
 on deck, and hurrying up I saw a short distance 
 ahead of tbe brig a school of porpoises numbering 
 several hundred, puffing, blowing, jumping, skip- 
 ping and performing all manner of gymnastics. 
 After having amused us half an hour with their 
 feats of agility, they made their exit, playing leaj)- 
 frog over each other's backs. 
 
 At one o'clock this afternoon the brig was struck 
 by a flaw of wind, which carried away her main- 
 royal yard. The broken yard was immediately sent 
 down and a new one rigged and sent up. A broken 
 spar floated past us to-day, which had probably 
 been lost by a vessel off Cape Horn. We have 
 
ALL HANDS ON ALLOWANCE OP WATER. 99 
 
 to-day seen five vessels bound northward. Distance 
 sailed, 115 miles. Lat. 35° 43'. Therm, at M. 67°. 
 
 Tuesday, March 27. — During to-day we have 
 been surrounded by a thick fog, and the weather 
 has been quite chilly. Flannel shirts and drawers, 
 cloth pants and coats, which have been stowed away 
 during the past forty days, made their appearance 
 on deck this morning, and judging from my own 
 personal experience, they were very acceptable. 
 During the morning we had a fair but light breeze, 
 which died away at one o'clock, and this afternoon 
 the brig has been rolling and the sails flapping 
 against the masts. 
 
 An albatross, measuring probably ten feet across 
 its wings, has accompanied us all day, occasionally 
 resting on the surface of the water for a few moments. 
 The Captain being in a very bad humor with him- 
 self this afternoon, and wishing to curdle the milk 
 of human kindness in the breasts of others, has put 
 all hands on an allowance of water. Distance sailed, 
 189 miles. Lat. 38° 44'. Therm, at M. 63°. 
 
 Wednesday, March 28. — The wind to-day has been 
 blowing fresh from S. S. W., dead ahead, and the 
 weather has been uncomfortably cold, the thermome- 
 ter having fallen twenty degrees during the past four 
 days. If the mercury in the thermometer continues 
 to fall in this ratio, it will be frozen in the bulb 
 before we reach Cape Horn. Those of the passen- 
 gers who did not break out their flannels yesterday, 
 have to-day donned their red shirts and California 
 mining boots. Owing to a strong head-wind the 
 brig has rolled worse and shipped heavier seas to- 
 
100 PEEPAEING FOE CAPE HOEN. 
 
 day than on any previous occasion during the pas- 
 sage, which has kept both passengers and baggage 
 constantly rolling and sliding about. 
 
 Several of the passengers have been amusing 
 themselves by shooting gulls, albatross and other 
 sea-birds which have been hovering around the 
 brig throughout the day. All the birds killed fell 
 overboard, not one was saved. Distance sailed, 94 
 miles. Lat. 40° 12'. Therm, at M. 55°. 
 
 Thursday, March 29. — The wind has been nearly 
 dead ahead all day, which has kept the brig six or 
 seven points off her course. The sea is smoother 
 than it has been for several days past, but the 
 weather is quite winterish. The crew has been 
 engaged to-day preparing the brig for Cape Horn. 
 The foretop-gallant-mast was condemned and sent 
 down, and a new spar sent up in its place. Sails 
 split and torn since leaving E,io have been repaired, 
 and everything made ready for the coming rough 
 weather. 
 
 A hook and line baited with pork, was made fast 
 to the stern-boat this morning for the purpose of 
 catching albatross. About ten o'clock, A. M., one 
 was hooked, but broke loose before the line could 
 be hauled in. This afternoon, a school of whales, 
 numbering forty or fifty, was discovered on our 
 weather-quarter, distant about three miles. They 
 accompanied us until sundown, at about the same 
 relative distance as when first discovered. Distance 
 sailed, 85 miles. Lat. 39° 29'. Therm, at M. 53°. 
 
 Friday, March 30. — Throughout to-day we have 
 been favored with a fair wind, and the weather is 
 
NEW ENGLAND WEATHEK. 101 
 
 mucli milder. During tlie past four days, I have 
 been eating salt pork and hard-tack with a relish 
 that would astonish both Jews and Gentiles. If I 
 carry my present appetite to California, it will be a 
 very expensive companion, with flour at $60 a barrel 
 and beefsteak at f 1 a pound ! 
 
 This afternoon, the passengers have been gathered 
 about the deck in knots amusing themselves by 
 playing cards, dominoes, backgammon and checkers. 
 
 A humpbacked whale made his appearance this 
 morning within 100 yards of the brig, and after 
 blowing several times, shook the spray from his 
 tail and disappeared. Distance sailed, 29 miles. 
 Lat. 39° 34'. Therm, at M. 56°. 
 
 Saturday, March 31. — The wind freshened grad- 
 ually during the night, and throughout to-day has 
 been blowing an eight-knot breeze, which is rapidly 
 hastening us into colder weather. The weather 
 during the past week has been very much like that 
 of New England in the month of October — cold, 
 but bracing and invigorating. 
 
 At the commencement of the voyage, the thoughts 
 of doubling Cape Horn in the winter caused 
 
 " Each particular hair to stand on end, 
 Like quills upon the fretful porcupine ;" 
 
 but the nearer I approach it, the less danger I 
 apprehend in doubling it. We are now within 
 800 miles of Cape Horn, and the sea is as 
 smooth as it was off the Cape de Verde Islands. 
 Should the sea remain smooth and the wind con- 
 tinue in the same quarter as now during the next 
 
102 all-fools' day. 
 
 eight days, we sliall liave passed Cape Horn and 
 reached the placid waters of the Pacific. Distance 
 sailed, 128 miles. Lat. 41° 13'. Therm, at M. 54°. 
 
 Sunday, April 1. — Throughout last night, and 
 up to meridian to-day, the wind has been light and 
 baffling. At one o'clock, P. M., the barometer fell 
 suddenly, and strong indications of a storm were 
 observable, which caused the Captain to shorten 
 sail forthwith. The men had scarcely laid down 
 from aloft before we were struck by a white squall, 
 which brought the brig down to her bearings and 
 caused the spars and rigging to creak piteously. 
 The gale soon subsided, and we were again gliding 
 briskly over a smooth sea. 
 
 The steerage steward informed the passengers 
 this morning that they were to have "fritters" for 
 dinner, which caused them to eat a light breakfast 
 and wait impatiently for the anxiously wished-for 
 meal. At half-past twelve o'clock, the steward took 
 his accustomed place at the steerage hatch, and 
 placing his arms akimbo, cried out at the top of his 
 voice : " Steerage passengers will please lay below 
 and get their dinner !" This summons had scarcely 
 ceased echoing through the rigging, before two- 
 thirds of the mess were below gazing upon an 
 empty table. After the rattling of boots on the 
 ladder had ceased, the steward thrust his phiz below 
 the hatch and asked the steerage gents if they were 
 aware that the first day of April had arrived. 
 Some relished the joke, others preferred "fritters;" 
 but all acknowledged themselves sold. The stew- 
 ard, however, soon set matters to rights by pro- 
 
PEESEVEEANCE MINING COMPANY. 103 
 
 viding eacli person with, a panful of " fritters" well 
 slicked over with molasses. Distance sailed, 102 
 miles. Lat. 42° 30'. Therm, at M. 56°. 
 
 Monday, April 2. — I went on deck at seven 
 o'clock this morning, and found the brig steering 
 her course with yards square and studding-sails set 
 below and aloft. The weather, strange to say, in- 
 stead of growing colder as we approach Cape Horn, 
 is gradually becoming milder. The thermometer 
 has risen four degrees during the past three days. 
 This afternoon the wind has been blowing very 
 fresh, and the sea has been rougher than usual, 
 which has caused the brig to roll heavily and ship 
 frequent seas. 
 
 The brothers Kelly and myself have to-day 
 joined the " Peesevekance Mining Company," 
 which increases its membership to seven persons. 
 I think we are now as well prepared for mining as 
 any company bound for El Dorado. The joint 
 stock of the company consists of twelve months' 
 provisions, three tents, two batteaux, with mining 
 implements of all descriptions and of the best 
 quality. The following are the articles of agree- 
 ment : — 
 
 " Know all men by these presents, that the un- 
 dersigned have associated themselves together under 
 the name and title of the ' Peeseveeance Mining 
 Company,' for the purpose of transacting business 
 in California, and have mutually agreed upon 
 and adopted the following rules and regulations, 
 by which they mutually pledge themselves to be 
 governed : 
 
104 AKTICLES OF AGEEEMENT. 
 
 "Article I. It is agreed that there sliall be one 
 of tlie company chosen, by a majority of its mem- 
 bers, who shall be styled Director, and who shall 
 perform the duties of President. 
 
 "Aet. II. It is agreed that one other member 
 shall be chosen as Treasurer of the company, who 
 shall have in charge all moneys and property of 
 the company. 
 
 "Akt. m. It is also agreed that there shall be 
 one other member chosen as Secretary of the com- 
 pany, who shall keep the books and accounts of the 
 same. 
 
 "Akt. IV. It is agreed that the foregoing officers 
 shall account to the company, at all times when 
 requested to do so, and shall also be liable to re- 
 moval at any time by a majority of said company. 
 
 "Akt. V. It is agreed that each member of the 
 company shall bear his own expenses until he 
 arrives in California. 
 
 "Akt. VI. It is agreed that each member shall 
 contribute an equal proportion of the amount re- 
 quired to increase the stock of mining implements, 
 provisions, etc., for the conducting of business on 
 their arrival in California, which shall belong to 
 the joint stock of the company. 
 
 "Akt. VII. It is agreed that any member who 
 shall withdraw from the company, after his arrival 
 in California, shall receive only such portion of the 
 joint stock as may be awarded to him by a vote of 
 two-thirds of the members of said company, and he 
 shall also receive his share of accrued profits at the 
 time of withdrawal. 
 
INTOXICATIlSrG BEVEEAGES INTERDICTED. 105 
 
 " Aet. YIII. It is agreed that in case of the death 
 of any member of this company, the survivors shall 
 forward to his legal representatives his share of the 
 profits at the time of his decease, with a full and 
 complete statement of the affairs of the company, 
 attested by the ofl&cers thereof. 
 
 "Aet. IX. It is agreed that the comjDany shall 
 pursue such business in California, or elsewhere, as 
 shall be agreed upon by a majority of its members, 
 and that the expenses of the company shall be 
 mutually borne and the profits equally divided 
 among them. 
 
 "Aet. X. It is agreed, and we hereby pledge 
 ourselves, to support and protect each other in case 
 of emergency and sickness, and in all cases to stand 
 by each other as a band of brothers. 
 
 "Aet. XI. Inasmuch as the evil tendency of the 
 use of intoxicating beverages in promoting disturb- 
 ances, and in rendering persons unfit for business, 
 and their liability to injure health, being well un- 
 derstood, it is hereby agreed that from and after 
 our arrival in California, no member of this com- 
 pany shall use intoxicating liquors of any kind, 
 except in case of urgent necessity. 
 
 "Aet. XII. It is agreed that in case any mem- 
 ber shall intentionally violate either of the forego- 
 ing articles, or hereafter refuse to be governed by 
 them, he shall, after receiving his share of the joint 
 stock and profits of the company, be expelled there- 
 from. 
 
 "Aet. XIII. It is agreed that this company shall 
 not be increased beyond the number of seven, un- 
 
106 OFFICEES OF THE COMPANY. 
 
 less such addition be sanctioned by a unanimous 
 vote. 
 
 "Akt. XIV. It is also agreed that all vacancies 
 that shall occur by death, expulsion or resignation, 
 shall be filled by persons receiving the unanimous 
 vote of the company. 
 
 "Aet. XV. It is furthermore agreed that in all 
 matters relating to the company, the voice of its 
 members shall be ascertained by ballot. 
 
 " JoHW Heybekgee, " Samuel C. Upham, 
 "William Fettek, "Amos S. Kelly, 
 "Chables S. Kelly, "George Wilson, 
 "Thomas S. Bekgek." 
 
 The officers of "The Peesevekance Mining 
 Company" are: 
 
 John Heybeegee, Pres't. Wm. Fettee, Treas. 
 Samuel C. Upham, Secretary. 
 
 Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 43° 17'. Therm, 
 at M. 59°. 
 
 ["The Perseverance Mining Company," like 
 many others formed en route to the new El Dorado 
 by sea and land, "vanished into thin air" soon after 
 the arrival of its members in California. George 
 Wilson, of San Francisco, Charles S. Kelly and 
 S. C. Upham, both residents of Philadelphia, are 
 the only members of the above company known to 
 be living at this time.] 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 Another gale — Salt-water coffee — Cabin stove broken — An- 
 other hail-storm — Terra del Fuego — Staten Land by moon- 
 light — Double Staten Land — Death of Jocko, the sailors' 
 pet — Furious gale off Cape Horn — The cook's galley cap- 
 sized — Cabin passengers on a jamboree — Another gale — 
 Drifting about in the region of icebergs — Raw pork and 
 hard-tack — Fresh provisions all gone — Novel method of 
 obtaining fresh grub at sea — Double Cape Horn — Boxing 
 the compass — Passengers volunteer to stand watch — Capture 
 of an albatross. 
 
 Tuesday, April 3. — Througliout to-day the brig 
 lias been skimming along at the rate of seven knots 
 an hour. 
 
 We are within 600 miles of Cape Horn, and if 
 we are blessed with a fair wind during the next five 
 days, the Osceola will in all probability be pointing 
 her head toward the north j)ole. This afternoon a 
 school of porpoises played around us for several 
 hours. The harpoon was made ready, and after 
 several ineffectual attempts, one was finally struck, 
 but in endeavoring to hoist him on board, the har- 
 poon drew out and he was soon run down and 
 devoured by his fishmates. Distance sailed, 168 
 miles. Lat. 45° 32'. Therm, at M. 61°. 
 
 Wednesday, April 4. — At sundown last night the 
 wind commenced blowing very fresh, and before 
 midnight it increased to a gale, which raged with 
 7 (107) 
 
108 SALT-WATEE COFFEE. 
 
 such fury that the brig was hove to, and remained 
 in that position until daylight this morning. Heavy 
 head-seas have been running during the day, and 
 the brig has been constantly plunging her head under 
 water and shipping seas, which have completely del- 
 uged the forecastle and turned everything in that 
 quarter topsy-turvy. The slush-barrel broke loose 
 and jumped out of the bow-port, and a barrel of pork 
 and the grindstone were about to follow suit, when 
 they were secured by the cook and second mate. 
 
 This morning, the cook not having the fear of a 
 rope's end before his eyes, treated the cabin passen- 
 gers to a pot of salt-water coffee. The circumstance 
 being reported to the Captain, he ordered the knight 
 of the frying-pan and ladle and his assistant aft, 
 and administered to each a quart of salt-water, which 
 they drank with a bad relish, judging from the 
 contortions of their physiognomies. 
 
 We are to-day about 40 miles distant from the 
 eastern point of Cape Blanco, on the coast of Pata- 
 gonia. During the past twenty-four hours the 
 weather has been gradually growing colder, the 
 thermometer having fallen ten degrees. Distance 
 sailed, 115 miles. Lat. 47° 24'. Therm, at M. 51°. 
 
 Thursday, April 5. — Last night the wind headed 
 us off" our course five or six points, but this fore- 
 noon it hauled around fair again and since meridian 
 we have been steering our course with studding-sails 
 set below and aloft. The heavy seas of yesterday 
 have strained the brig and caused a slight leak for- 
 ward. The sea has been quite smooth to-day and 
 the weather cool but pleasant. A land-bird, very 
 
BKOKEJSr STOVES AND COLD WEATHEK. 109 
 
 closely resembling a sparrow, flew on board this 
 morning, and after fluttering about the deck and 
 rigging a few moments took his departure over the 
 lee-bow and was soon out of sight. A mast floated 
 past us this afternoon. It had probably been lost 
 by some vessel off Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 
 134 miles. Lat. 49° 17'. Therm, at M. 50°. 
 
 Friday, April 6. — During last night and the 
 greater part of to-day we have been heading our 
 course, but owing to cross-seas have made but little 
 progress. The weather is so cold that I have re- 
 mained in my bunk nearly all the afternoon. 
 Through the negligence of the Captain the cabin 
 stoves have been broken, consequently the passen- 
 gers have no fires to warm themselves by, which 
 has caused unpleasant feelings. The steerage is at 
 present the most comfortable part of the brig, and 
 it is filled during the day with cabin passengers, 
 some remaining during the night, preferring to 
 sleep on chests rather than occupy their berths in 
 the cabin. 
 
 We are to-day passing between the Falkland 
 Islands and the coast of Patagonia, the former 
 being about 40 miles distant. Distance sailed, 96 
 miles. Lat. 51° 39'. Therm, at M. 47°. 
 
 Saturday, April 7. — In the early part of last 
 night we were treated to a specimen of Cape Horn 
 weather in the shape of a hail-storm, which lasted 
 about thirty minutes, during which time hail-stones, 
 from the size of a pea to that of a marble, fell 
 in abundance. After the storm had ceased, the 
 wind freshened, and before ten o'clock it blew a 
 
110 STATEN LAND BY MOONLIGHT. 
 
 furious gale, before wliicli we were compelled to 
 scud all night. The brig shipped seas constantly 
 during the night, some of which covered the deck 
 to the depth of three feet, carrying into the lee 
 scuj)pers everything movable. The deck over my 
 berth leaked like a sieve, and every time the brig 
 shipped a sea I received a shower-bath gratis. 
 Owing to head-winds and cross-seas, the brig has 
 been laboring heavily all day — not making more 
 than three knots an hour, and continually shipping 
 seas. The moon changes to-day, and I hope the 
 wind will follow suit and enable us to pass around 
 Staten Land and double Cape Horn. At sundown 
 we made Cape St. Diego, the south-eastern point 
 of Terra del Fuego, distant about 25 miles. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 53° 46'. Therm, 
 at M. 44°. 
 
 Sunday, April 8. — Last night at midnight I went 
 on deck for the purpose of seeing Staten Land. By 
 the aid of the moon, which was somewhat obscured 
 by clouds, I could discern the mountains about 6 
 miles distant towering to the clouds, their tops 
 covered with perpetual snow. Staten Land — rock 
 would be the better word — is a mass of barren 
 rocks 60 miles long by 15 miles wide. The highest 
 peaks rise several thousand feet above the level of 
 the ocean, and are continually covered with snow, 
 presenting to the mariner a prospect as cheerless as 
 they are barren and frigid. 
 
 It was the Captain's intention to have passed 
 through the Straits of Le Maire, thereby avoiding 
 the passage around Staten Land, but as we were 
 
BUKIAL AT SEA. Ill 
 
 about to enter them, the wind chopped around and 
 headed us off. 
 
 At three o'clock this morning, we passed around 
 the eastern point of Staten Land, and at daylight 
 were off Easter Harbor, distant 10 miles, and 
 heading our course toward Cape Horn, which we 
 hope to double to-morrow evening ; but all human 
 calculations are uncertain, particularly in this lati- 
 tude. Before nine o'clock, A. M., we were in the. 
 midst of a furious gale, accompanied by rain and 
 hail, which has driven us off our course and com- 
 pelled us to steer toward the region of icebergs 
 during the remainder of the day. A fair wind for 
 twenty-four hours would place us in the Pacific to 
 the northward of Cape Horn, but a head-wind will 
 prevent us from reaching that point until dooms- 
 day. Several of the passengers have amused them- 
 selves to-day by catching gulls and Cape pigeons 
 with a hook and line. 
 
 The cold weather of the past week has been too 
 severe for the delicate constitution of our monkey. 
 He had a chill last night, which was succeeded by 
 a violent fever, and this morning at daylight he 
 was so far gone that neither hot drops, quinine nor 
 burnt brandy could save him. At ten o'clock, A.M., 
 he bade farewell to all things sublunary, and at 
 meridian was sewed up in a duff-bag and cast 
 overboard. Sic transit gloria Jocko ! Distance 
 sailed, 85 miles. Lat. 54° 56'. Therm, at M. 43°. 
 
 Monday, April 9. — During last night the wind 
 gradually died away, and this morning at daylight 
 we were in a dead calm, an unusual occurrence in 
 
112 FAIR WEATHEK AND FOTTL. 
 
 this latitude. At seven o'clock, A. M., a fresh 
 breeze sprang up from the south-east, which enabled 
 us to steer our course with all drawing sails set, and 
 glide along at the rate of eight knots an hour. 
 
 All hands on board have been agreeably dis- 
 appointed in regard to the weather which we 
 have encountered in the vicinity of Cape Horn. 
 Thus far it has been quite as pleasant as on the 
 •coast of North America during the month of Oc- 
 tober, and there is every prospect of a continuation 
 of fine weather for several days. At this writing, 
 five o'clock, P. M., we are steering our course, and 
 the brig is bowling along at the rate of nine knots. 
 If we can only manage to hold this breeze until 
 meridian to-morrow, we shall most likely be to the 
 westward of Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 94 miles. 
 Lat. 55° 44'. Therm, at M. 44°. 
 
 Tuesday, April 10; — The wind of yesterday in- 
 creased toward night, and at ten o'clock, P. M., it 
 blew a furious gale. The brig shipped several 
 heavy seas during the night, one of which capsized 
 the steerage galley and broke it in several places. 
 At midnight a huge wave broke over the forward 
 cabin with such force as to cause several of the 
 passengers to jump out of their berths and com- 
 mence making preparations for a speedy departure 
 for " Davy Jones's locker." 
 
 The fair wind of yesterday impressed all hands 
 with the belief that we would pass Cape Horn before 
 midnight last night, and upon the strength of this 
 supposition several of the after-cabin passengers 
 had a jollification which lasted all night and a part 
 
A SOUTH-WEST GALE. 115 
 
 of this forenoon. Tlie participants were as drunk 
 as Bacchus and as merry as lords. About the time 
 they had gotten fairly under way with a full head 
 of steam on, the gale commenced, and, with the 
 roaring of the elements and the carousing of the 
 revelers, the night was rendered hideous. 
 
 This morning at sunrise the gale had somewhat 
 subsided, but in consequence of strong head-seas we 
 have made very little progress to-day. We are 
 still to the south-east of the Horn, distant about 
 40 miles, but hope to double it to-night. 
 
 This afternoon two vessels were discovered on 
 our weather-bow, about 5 miles distant, heading 
 the same course as we are. One of the vessels 
 resembles the bark Harriet Newell, which accom- 
 panied us out of the port of Rio. The other vessel 
 is probably the ship Architect. A cold, drizzling 
 rain has been falling all day, rendering everything 
 on deck, as well as below, very unpleasant. The 
 sun being obscured by clouds to-day, no observa- 
 tion was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 50 miles. 
 Therm, at M. 44°. 
 
 Wednesday, April 11. — A terrific south-west gale 
 has been blowing all day. During the forenoon 
 the brig lay to with her helm lashed, in which 
 condition she behaved admirably, although the 
 waves ran mountain-high and threatened to over- 
 whelm her at every roll. At noon the storm-stay- 
 sail was set, and at this time, six o'clock, P. M., we 
 are laying to under that sail, with the wind blowing 
 a perfect hurricane. There are persons on board 
 the brig who have doubled Cape Horn several 
 
116 FKTJGAI, DIET. 
 
 times, and at different seasons of the year, and 
 they all say this is the severest gale they ever 
 experienced in this vicinity. When the gale com- 
 menced we were so near the southern extremity of 
 the Cape that the loom of land was visible, and, 
 had we been favored with a fair wind eight hours 
 longer, we would have been steering north-west 
 over the waters of the Pacific. To-day there has 
 been no fire in either galley, consequently all hands 
 have been compelled to subsist on low diet — raw 
 salt pork and hard-tack ! 
 
 At meridian we were 60 miles due south of 
 Cape Horn. This afternoon a brig was reported 
 on our lee-bow, distant 4 miles, laying to under 
 bare poles. Distance sailed, 148 miles. Lat. 67° 
 10'. Therm, at M. 46°. 
 
 Thursday, April 12. — During last night the 
 wind subsided considerably, but owing to cross-seas 
 and a strong head-wind, we have made but very 
 little progress during the past twenty-four hours. 
 The sun arose clear this morning, and has not been 
 obscured by a single cloud. The brig is rolling 
 heavily, occasionally dipping her lower yards. 
 
 The steerage galley was rigged up this morning, 
 and although in a sadly-demoralized condition, has, 
 with attentive watching, performed its usual office 
 quite satisfactorily. 
 
 The fresh provisions laid in at Rio for the use of 
 the cabin passengers, gave out yesterday, and all 
 hands on board are now placed on the same diet — 
 salt beef, pork and hard-tack, with an occasional 
 plum-pudding boiled in salt water for dessert ! 
 
GENUINE CAPE HORN WEATHEK. 117 
 
 Yesterday morning, being impressed with a de- 
 sire to have something fresh for the inner man, 
 either in the way of fish, flesh or fowl, I suggested 
 to a friend the idea of catching a mess of Cape 
 pigeons, wliich are hovering around the brig in 
 abundance. A fishing-line was accordingly rigged 
 by my friend, and with the hook baited with pork, 
 he caught a half-dozen pigeons before noon. The 
 birds were handed to me for the purpose of being 
 cooked, which operation I performed as well as my 
 limited knowledge of the culinary art would admit 
 of, and at six o'clock, P. M., we sat down to a supper 
 of roast pigeons, stufied with pork and onions. We 
 ate the pork and onions — the pigeons were thrown 
 overboard! Distance sailed, 50 miles. Lat. 67°59'. 
 Therm, at M. 42°. 
 
 Friday, April 13. — Throughout last night and 
 the greater part of to-day the weather has been 
 cold, with frequent squalls "accompanied by rain, 
 snow and hail — genuine Cape Horn weather. Since 
 the commencement of the stormy weather, the brig 
 has been driven back to the eastward as far as 
 Staten Land, and so long as this head-wind con- 
 tinues we shall drift still further eastward. We are 
 further south this morning than at any time since 
 we rounded Staten Land, and judging from the cold- 
 ness of the wind, I presume we are in the vicinity 
 of icebergs and fields of floating ice. The thermom- 
 eter has fallen seven degrees in the past twenty- 
 four hours, and being without stoves or fires brings 
 forcibly to mind scenes in the Antarctic, related to 
 me by an officer of the U. S. Exploring Expedition 
 
 8 
 
118 HEADED OFF BY ADVEKSE WIISDS. 
 
 wlio visited that icy region in the year 1839. 
 While becalmed on the equator, a majority of the 
 passengers were wishing for a gale — anything 
 rather than a calm ; but since we have been headed 
 off so frequently, and driven about in these lati- 
 tudes by adverse winds, the same individuals would 
 gladly exchange positions with a vessel becalmed in 
 the tropics, and also willingly submit to the shaving 
 operation as performed by Neptune and his asso- 
 ciates. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 68° 08'-. 
 Therm, at M. 35°. 
 
 Saturday, April 14. — Early last night the wind 
 hauled around to the north-east, and since that 
 time the brig has been heading her course with all 
 drawing sails set. The wind has been fair all day 
 and the sea quite smooth, which has enabled us to 
 leave the frozen regions of the south pole for those 
 of a more genial temperature, at the rate of eight 
 knots an hour. 
 
 During the past ten days we have twice been off 
 the pitch of Cape Horn, and have as often been 
 driven back or headed off by adverse winds, but as 
 there is luck in odd numbers, I hope that we shall 
 be permitted to pass this time with flying colors. 
 Should we be favored with a fair wind during the 
 next twenty-four hours, we shall at the expiration 
 of that time be so far to the northward and west- 
 ward of the Horn that it will be a difficult matter 
 for old Boreas to head us off and drive us toward 
 the icebergs again. Distance sailed, 106 miles. 
 Lat. 57° 34'. Therm, at M. 38°. 
 
 Sunday, April 15. — Throughout last night wind 
 
THE SECOND MATE BKOKEW. 119 
 
 W. N. W., with frequent squalls accompanied by 
 hail and snow, and to-day it has been cloudy with 
 strong indications of more snow. At meridian, 
 Cape Horn bore north-east, distant 125 miles; 
 therefore we are at last in the Pacific f Three 
 cheers and a " tiger " for the Osceola ! 
 
 This morning the Captain and second mate had 
 an altercation in relation to the duties of the latter, 
 which resulted in his being " broken " and ordered 
 in the forecastle to do duty before the mast during 
 the remainder of the voyage. It now remains to 
 be seen whether the Captain will keep the "broken" 
 mate's watch on deck or request the passengers to 
 perform that duty, as was the case previous to our 
 arrival at Eio de Janeiro. Distance sailed, 112 
 miles. Lat. 58° 11'. Therm, at M. 42°. 
 
 Monday, April 16. — During last night and the 
 greater part of to-day it has been squally with fre- 
 quent showers, which has kept the crew busily 
 engaged shortening and making sail. We are still 
 steering to the westward, which keeps us in cold 
 weather, but shall probably commence running 
 northward to-morrow, which will soon bring us into 
 warmer weather. 
 
 Now that we are safely around Cape Horn, all 
 hands are more anxious than ever to reach San 
 Francisco, and in order to induce the Captain to 
 carry a little more canvas on the brig, eight or ten 
 of the passengers have volunteered their services 
 to assist the crew in working her during the bal- 
 ance of the voyage. Two vessels were reported on 
 our weather-bow this morning, standing to the 
 
120 BOXING THE COMPASS. 
 
 westward. A large school of porpoises paid us a 
 visit this afternoon, and when they bade us adieu 
 they were minus one of their number pierced with 
 a harpoon, but in our efforts to get him on board, 
 the iron drew out and he floated to the leeward. 
 Distance sailed, 80 miles. Lat. 58° 14'. Therm, 
 at M. 40°. 
 
 Tuesday, April 17. — Throughout last night 
 and to-day weather squally and a Scotch mist 
 has been falling, rendering the atmosphere chilly 
 and unpleasant. During the past twenty-four 
 hours, the brig has completely boxed the com- 
 pass. Last night she headed west ; this morning, 
 at seven o'clock, north-west ; at meridian, north ; 
 at two o'clock, P. M., south-east; at five o'clock, 
 P. M., south, and at this writing, seven o'clock, 
 P. M., she is heading south-west by west, which 
 course the Captain desires to run until to-morrow 
 noon, when, the wind permitting, he will steer 
 northward. 
 
 Our volunteers performed their duty last night 
 to the entire satisfaction of the Captain, but the . 
 damp and chilly weather of to-day has completely 
 disheartened them. Three of the volunteers have 
 made up their minds not to stand watch to-night, 
 and have already turned into their berths. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 148 miles, by log. No observation. 
 Therm, at M. 43°. 
 
 Wednesday, April 18. — Last night and to-day 
 the rain has poured down in torrents, and the wind 
 has been blowing very fresh, causing the brig to 
 roll heavily and occasionally to ship a sea. We 
 
A JONAH ON BOAKD. 121 
 
 steered a west course to-day, up to six o'clock, 
 P. M., when the Captain wore the brig, and since 
 that time we have been heading north-west, which 
 will soon place us in mild and pleasant weather. 
 
 During the past two days, in consequence of the 
 cloudy state of the atmosphere, the Captain has not 
 been able to take an observation by the sun, there- 
 fore our position is not definitely known ; but I am 
 of the opinion that we are in the neighborhood of 
 76° west longitude, and latitude 58° south. If the 
 Captain ascertains to-morrow that we are in 75° 
 west longitude, we will steer our present course 
 during the next two weeks, wind permitting. This 
 afternoon and evening, several of the passengers 
 have been trying to drive away dull care by playing 
 chess, cards and dominoes. Distance sailed, 102 
 miles, by log. No observation. Therm, at M. 44°. 
 
 Thursday, April 19. — At midnight last night the 
 brig was headed off her course by adverse winds, 
 and during the remainder of the night and all day 
 we have been heading south-west by west. Thus 
 far, all our efforts to get to the northward have been 
 futile. If by chance we get a slant of wind that 
 enables us to run to the northward four or five 
 hours, a head -wind invariably drives us back to 
 Cape Horn. We certainly have a Jonah on board ! 
 During the day it has been squally, with occasional 
 showers accompanied by hail. 
 
 This afternoon one of the passengers caught an 
 albatross measuring across the wings from tip to tip, 
 seven feet and two inches. It was captured with a 
 hook baited with pork. Having been inspected by 
 
122 DEIFTISTG TOWAED CAPE HOEIST. 
 
 all hands, it was placed in the chicken-coop for 
 safe-keeping. Distance sailed, 94 miles, by log. 
 No observation. Therm, at M. 42°. 
 
 Friday, April 20. — At eight o'clock, A. M., we 
 were struck by a squall which carried our foresail 
 completely out of the bolt-rope, and the yards and 
 masts would have gone by the board had not the 
 passengers jumped on deck and assisted the crew in 
 taking in sail and making things secure. The first 
 mate had charge of the deck at the commencement 
 of the squall, but in consequence of his tardiness in 
 the management of the brig, he was relieved by the 
 Captain, who immediately clewed up and furled 
 every sail with the exception of the foretop-mast- 
 stay sail, under which we have been laying to during 
 the forenoon. The squall has increased to a gale, 
 and at this time, three o'clock, P. M., the wind is 
 blowing a hurricane, which is drifting the brig 
 toward Cape Horn at the rate of six knots an hour. 
 After the gale had partially subsided, the Captain 
 called the mate aft and read him a lecture on the 
 management of a vessel in a storm, every sentence 
 of which was rounded off with an oath, which drove 
 the subject home and clinched it effectually. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 80 miles. Lat. 57° 33'. Therm, at 
 M. 42°. 
 
CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 Another severe gale — Swollen limbs — Is it scurvy ? — Captain 
 and mate have a growl — Fight between two passengers — 
 One of the passengers celebrates his birthday — Gambling 
 on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it — Fair 
 wind once more — Passengers again on deck — Punishing a 
 ship's boy — Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana — 
 Anchors gotten over the bow — Passengers watching for land 
 — Make the coast of Chili — Head-wind — Driven out to sea. 
 
 Saturday, April 21. — The gale of yesterday con- 
 tinued throughout last night, during which time I 
 did not close my eyes, for fear of being thrown out 
 of my berth by the continual rolling of the brig. 
 This storm is the severest we have encountered 
 during the passage' — the barometer at one time 
 being as low as 29°. 
 
 Early this morning the mainsail, top-sail, spanker 
 and jib were set, a new foresail broke out of the 
 sail-room and bent on. Throughout the day we 
 have been steering north-west by west, but owing 
 to a light wind and heavy cross-seas, have made 
 very little headway. During yesterday we must 
 have drifted at least 75 miles to the southward 
 and eastward, which places us in about the same 
 locality that we were this day week. This morning 
 a brig was reported directly astern of us, distant 
 
 (123) 
 
124 CHILBLAINS OE SCURVY. 
 
 about 6 miles, heading north-east. Distance sailed, 
 64 miles. Lat. 58° 15'. Therm, at M. 42°. 
 
 Sunday, April 22. — The breeze of yesterday 
 continued throughout last night, which has enabled 
 us to regain what we lost during the gale of last 
 Friday. This morning the wind chopped around 
 to the north-west, which has compelled us to head 
 south-west by west all day. Last night our 
 amateur sailors again volunteered their services, 
 and worked like Trojans, pulling and hauling at 
 the ropes. 
 
 My feet have been very sore the past week, and 
 to-day they are so badly swollen that it is with 
 great difficulty I can draw on my boots. One-third 
 of the passengers are similarly afflicted. Whether 
 this swelling of the feet is occasioned by chilblains 
 or the scurvy, I am unable to state, but am inclined 
 to the belief that it is the incipient symptoms of the 
 latter disease. Distance sailed, 130 miles. Lat. 
 56° 53'. Therm, at M. 42°. 
 
 Monday, April 23. — Fair wind all last night and 
 to-day, which has enabled us to steer our course 
 over the Southern Ocean at the rate of six knots an 
 hour. Should this wind continue until to-morrow 
 evening, we will have made sufficient longitude to 
 warrant our steering a northwardly course. The 
 weather is as coquettish as a maiden in her teens. 
 At sunrise the mercury in the thermometer was 
 down to- 41° ; at two o'clock, P. M., it stood at 50° ; 
 at three o'clock, P. M., 52°, and in two hours there- 
 after it was down to 45°. 
 
 Two vessels were in sight this afternoon ; one a 
 
PABTIALITY FOE THE HOEN. 125 
 
 bark, on our starboard-bow, distant about 8 miles, 
 and the other a brig, on our larboard quarter, 10 
 miles ofT, both standing to the westward. They 
 are, no doubt, California passenger vessels. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 118 miles. Lat. 57° 14'. Therm, at 
 M. 48°. 
 
 Tuesday, April 24. — The breeze which we carried 
 throughout yesterday died away in the evening, and 
 during the remainder of the night it was squally, 
 causing the watch on deck to be constantly exer- 
 cising the sails. To-day we have been steering a 
 northerly course, but owing to frequent squalls 
 and a strong head-sea, have made but very little 
 progress. The squalls have been accompanied by 
 rain, hail and snow — gentle reminders of Cape 
 Horn. 
 
 The Osceola seems to have fallen desperately in 
 love with Cape Horn, and appears loath to leave, 
 judging from the manner in which she is dodging 
 around in this region. We are no farther from 
 Cape Horn than we were ten days ago, and God 
 only knows when we shall be permitted to leave 
 this locality. A strange fatality seems to hang 
 over us! Who is the Jonah? Distance sailed, 
 114 miles. Lat. 57° 04'. Therm, at M. 40°. 
 
 Wednesday, April 25. — To-day we have been 
 steering north by west with a light wind, conse- 
 quently have made very little headway. A strong 
 head-sea has been setting down from the north all 
 the past week, which has retarded our progress. 
 
 The Captain and mate had a growl yesterday 
 concerning their relative positions on shipboard. 
 
126 AN ALBATROSS FOE DINNER. 
 
 The Captain swore that his views were correct, but 
 the mate begged leave to differ with him, which at 
 once aroused the old man's ire, and seizing a belay- 
 ing-pin from the rail, he handed it to the mate, and 
 in language more forcible than polite, requested him 
 to knock his (the Captain's) brains out ! The mate 
 declined to perform the sanguinary operation, and 
 the old skipper is still left to growl whenever he 
 feels disposed to indulge in his favorite pastime. 
 
 A homeward-bound vessel passed us this after- 
 noon to the windward, distant about 10 miles. 
 This evening one of the passengers shot an alba- 
 tross which fell on deck. The wings were given to 
 the steerage steward; the skin and feathers were 
 retained by the person who killed the bird, and the 
 carcass will be served up to-day at two o'clock, 
 P. M., for the especial benefit of steerage mess No. 
 1. Thank God, I don't belong to that mess ! / 
 can eat albatross, but I don't hanker after it. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 55° 48'. Therm, at 
 M. 41°. 
 
 Thursday, April 26. — Last night at eight o'clock, 
 the Captain wore ship and stood to the westward 
 until three o'clock this morning, when it commenced 
 blowing a gale from the north-east which continued 
 until noon, the brig scudding before it with canvas 
 barely sufficient to keep her steady. At one o'clock, 
 P. M., the wind lulled and the mainsail, foresail, 
 jib and top-sails — ^the latter being close-reefed — ^were 
 set, and during the remainder of the afternoon the 
 brig has been heading a northerly course, which I 
 hope will soon carry us into warmer weather. 
 
AN AFFKAY BETWEEN TWO PASSENGERS. 127 
 
 One hundred days since we left Philadelphia, 
 and we are not 30 miles to the northward of Cape 
 Horn. Should the latter part of our voyage prove 
 as tedious and unpleasant as the first, we shall all 
 hail with joy the land of promise to which we are 
 bound, whether we realize fortunes or not. If ever 
 sixty-five individuals were more heartily disgusted 
 with a sea voyage than are the passengers on board 
 this brig, I have yet to make their acquaintance. 
 Distance sailed, 144 miles. Lat. 55° 04'. Therm. 
 at M. 46°. 
 
 Friday, April 27. — Last night at eight o'clock, 
 the wind headed us off our course, and the CajDtain 
 wore the brig and stood to the westward. At two 
 o'clock this morning a gale crossed our path and 
 the brig was hove to under foretop-mast-stay sail, 
 in which position she remained until eight o'clock, 
 A. M., when the foresail and top-sails were sj^read 
 to the breeze, and since that time we have been 
 heading northwardly and rolling over the water 
 against a head-sea at the rate of three knots an 
 hour. Last night it was showery, but the weather 
 to-day has been delightfully pleasant. 
 
 An altercation occurred this morning between 
 two of the cabin passengers, which caused a general 
 rush toward the scene of action. During the affray 
 one of the combatants drew a knife from his pocket, 
 which was secured and thrown overboard before he 
 had an opportunity of using it on his antagonist. 
 
 This afternoon a cabin passenger caught an alba- 
 tross measuring ten feet four inches across the wings. 
 
128 GAMBLING. 
 
 from tip to tip. Distance sailed, 98 miles. Lat. 
 54° 46'. Therm, at M. 46°. 
 
 Saturday, April 28. — The brig has steered her 
 course all day with all canvas set ; the weather has 
 been mild and pleasant. 
 
 Night before last, our amateur sailors declined to 
 stand watch in consequence of the cook's having 
 refused to serve them with their accustomed allow- 
 ance of coffee during the morning watch. The cir- 
 cumstance was reported to Captain Fairfowl, who 
 soon arranged matters to their entire satisfaction, 
 and last night they were again on deck pulling and 
 hauling the ropes as usual. The past week the 
 gambling fever has again been raging fiercely on 
 board, several of the cabin passengers having 
 bucked away their last cent. Some of them have 
 become so infatuated with this damnable vice that 
 they have cut the buttons from their coats, vests and 
 inexpressibles, for the purpose of playing button 
 bluff. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 52° 60'. 
 Therm, at M. 48°. 
 
 Sunday, April 29. — Last night the brig headed 
 N. N. E., being two points to the eastward of her 
 course. The weather during the night was squally 
 with occasional showers. At eight o'clock, A. M., 
 the Captain wore the brig, and since that time we 
 have been making a due west course. The weather 
 has been chilly, and this afternoon a cold, drizzling 
 rain has been falling. Three weeks ago this 
 morning we rounded Staten Land, and at this 
 time we are only one degree north of the Straits 
 of Magellan. 
 
A FAKO-BANK. 129 
 
 The old skipper turned out of his berth this 
 morning in a very bad humor, and during the day 
 has, to use a nautical phrase, been "working up" 
 the sailors. They have been employed all day 
 moving the larboard chain cable aft on the quarter 
 deck, for the purpose of bringing the brig down 
 more by the stern, thereby enabling her to sail 
 faster and make less leeway. Sunday brings no 
 rest for poor Jack. 
 
 " Six days shalt thou labor, 
 And do all thou art able, 
 On the seventh, wash decks 
 And haul aft the cable !" 
 
 Distance sailed, 101 miles. Lat. 51° 39'. Therm, 
 at M. 46°. 
 
 Monday, April 30. — During the past twenty- 
 four hours the brig has been wrestling with a head- 
 wind and cross-seas. A cold rain has been falling 
 since morning which has caused the passengers to 
 remaia in close quarters all day. 
 
 A faro-bank has been in operation in the after- 
 cabin this afternoon, and several hundred dollars 
 have changed hands. At sundown the bank was 
 closed, but after supper it was again opened, and at 
 this writing, eight o'clock, P. M., I hear the checks 
 rattling on the table over my head. 
 
 The sun being obscured by clouds, no observa- 
 tion was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 114 miles. 
 Therm, at M. 48°. 
 
 Tuesday, May 1. — Early last night the wind 
 commenced blowing furiously from the north-west, 
 and at liiidnight we were in the midst of a hurri- 
 
130 ANOTHER FURIOUS GALE. 
 
 cane. At daylight tliis morning the brig was hove 
 to, and she has been laying in that position, under 
 the foretop-mast-stay sail, all day. 
 
 The after-cabin blaclclegs opened their faro bank 
 again this morning, and after gambling until noon, 
 concluded to suspend operations until the storm 
 subsided. Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 50° 56'. 
 Therm, at M. 48°. 
 
 Wednesday, May 2. — The gale continued to rage 
 throughout last night with increased violence. Dur- 
 ing the night, the brig shipped several of the heaviest 
 seas I ever saw break over the bow of a vessel. 
 She shipped one in the early part of the evening 
 that washed the steerage cook and a ship's boy out 
 of the galley and carried them on an excursion 
 down the lee scuppers as far as the companion-way, 
 where they brought up hard and fast against a 
 chicken-coop jambed between a water-cask and the 
 bulwarks. 
 
 The brig rolled so heavily all night that several 
 of the passengers on the weather-side were pitched 
 out of their berths among the trunks and boxes. 
 Fortunately no bones were broken. 
 
 At daylight this morning the gale subsided, the 
 wind hauled to the south-west, and we have been 
 heading our course with all drawing-sails set, but a 
 strong head-sea has prevented us from making 
 much headway. This morning all hands were put 
 on an allowance of two quarts of water per man. 
 This arrangement will answer very well so long as 
 the weather continues cool, but in a warmer climate 
 it will scarcely suffice for cooking purposes. Dis- 
 
CAPT. PAIKPOWL EIGHT FOE ONCE. 131 
 
 tance sailed, 28 miles. Lat. 50° 44'. Therm, at 
 M. 46°. 
 
 Thursday, May 3. — Throughout last, night the 
 weather was squally with frequent showers. Since 
 sunrise the wind has been on the increase, and 
 strong indications of a gale before midnight are 
 visible. A Scotch mist has been falling all day, 
 and this afternoon the brig has been completely 
 enveloped by a dense fog. One of the steerage 
 passengers celebrated his birthday yesterday, and 
 the result was that at least a dozen of his com- 
 panions retired to their berths in a state of inebria- 
 tion. The brig has been surrounded all day by 
 gulls, goneys, albatross and other sea-birds. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 61° 01'. Therm, 
 at M. 48°. 
 
 Friday, May 4. — My predictions yesterday in 
 relation to a gale were verified. When the sun 
 set last night the wind commenced blowing a severe 
 gale, which continued until midnight, when it sud- 
 denly lulled and soon after we were becalmed. 
 To-day the wind has been light and baffling, which 
 has caused the Captaia to wear the brig three times 
 since sunrise. The weather during the forenoon 
 has been foggy, damp and chilly. 
 
 Captain Fairfowl to-day issued a pronunciamiento 
 to the blacklegs, and also gave the mate orders to 
 furl all the sails and lay the brig to should he 
 witness any more gambling on board during the 
 voyage. This order created considerable excite- 
 ment among the gamblers at first, but they soon 
 cooled down and became as docile as lambs. The 
 
132 FAVOEABLE WINDS ONCE MOEE. 
 
 Captain says, and he is in dead earnest, that there 
 shall be no more gambling on board the Osceola, 
 but all hands, including the cook, have permission 
 to pray as long and as loud as they please. Tally 
 one for Captain Fairfowl. 
 
 Now' that gambling has been squelched, the Cap- 
 tain predicts a fair wind within the next twenty- 
 four hours. We shall see. Distance sailed, 72 
 miles. Lat. 50° SCy. Therm, at M. 49°. 
 
 Saturday, May 5. — At eight o'clock last night 
 the wind hauled around to the south-west, which 
 has enabled us to steer our course, which we have 
 been heading, with square yards, for the first time 
 in thirty days, but the wind has been so light that 
 we have made very little progress. The crew has 
 been employed reeving studding-sail gear, and I 
 hope that we shall have studding-sails set below 
 and aloft to-morrow. 
 
 This morning I had a fine view of a finbacked 
 whale, which I should judge would measure sixty 
 feet in length. Distance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 
 49° 34'. Therm, at M. 47°. 
 
 Sunday, May 6. — Throughout last night we were 
 blessed with a fair wind, which has continued to- 
 day, and wafted us along toward our port of desti- 
 nation at the rate of nine knots an hour. Several 
 showers of rain, accompanied by hail, have fallen 
 to-day, which have rendered the atmosphere chilly. 
 
 The weather foretop-mast studding-sail was set 
 this morning, and it did good service until noon, 
 when the wind hauled slightly ahead, and it was 
 taken in. We have not carried studding-sails 
 
MILD AND PLEASANT WEATHEE. 133 
 
 before in thirty days, in consequence of continued 
 head-winds. The Captain hailed the setting of the 
 studding-sails this morning as a good omen, and 
 immediately ordered an additional pint of water to 
 be served out with our daily allowance, which will 
 hereafter be two quarts and one pint, and shocking 
 bad water at that. 
 
 To-day the passengers have had their mattresses 
 and blankets spread on deck for the purpose of 
 giving them an airing, which they needed very 
 much. Early yesterday morning a bark was 
 reported on our lee-bow, distant about 10 miles, 
 heading to the northward. We gained on her 
 so fast during the day, that at sundown she was 
 nearly hull down astern of us. Distance sailed, 140 
 miles. Lat. 47° 20'. Therm, at M. 46°. 
 
 Monday, May 7. — During the past twenty-four 
 hours the brig has been steering her course at the 
 rate of nine knots an hour. The weather is be- 
 coming more mild and pleasant, and " life on the 
 ocean wave" seems more endurable. The passen- 
 gers who have been shivering with the cold weather 
 for the past twenty days, are skipping about the 
 deck as lively as larks, enjoying a little sunshine. 
 The mercury in the thermometer marked 53° to- 
 day, being the first time it has reached that point 
 in thirty days. 
 
 All hands were very much amused to-day by a 
 novel punishment inflicted on one of the ship's 
 boys. A pig, weighing twenty pounds, was slung 
 under the right arm of the culprit by a lashing that 
 passed over his right shoulder and around the body 
 
134 A NOVEL PUNISHMENT. 
 
 of the porker. Thus accoutred, he was ordered by 
 the Captain to march around the deck twelve times, 
 which command he obeyed to the infinite amuse- 
 ment of all hands, who lined the deck on either 
 side. The scene reminded me of a Scotch piper. 
 At every step he jerked his elbow into the side of 
 poor piggy, at the same time pinching his ear, 
 which caused his porkship to discourse most shrill 
 and discordant music. Distance sailed, 184 miles. 
 Lat. 43° 58'. Therm, at M. 56°. 
 
 Tuesday, 3Iay 8. — We had a fair wind last night, 
 which has continued to-day, and the brig has been 
 gliding along at the rate of eight knots an hour. 
 The weather still continues showery, although it is 
 gradually growing warmer. 
 
 We have, in the last fifty hours, made nearly 500 
 miles on our course, which is very gratifying to 
 all on board. Yesterday, when the latitude was 
 reported by the Captain, all hands gave three 
 cheers and a " tiger," which seemed to shake the 
 brig from stem to stern, and add fresh impetus to 
 hex speed. 
 
 A diversity of opinion prevails among the pas- 
 sengers in regard to the port we shall next stop at 
 for provisions and water. When we left Rio it was 
 generally believed that our next stopping-place 
 would be Valparaiso, but at present a rumor is rife 
 that the brig will put into the port of Talcahuana. 
 The old skipper is so obstinate that he will not 
 gratify the passengers by informing them in which 
 port he will drop anchor. Distance sailed, 190 
 miles. Lat. 41° 06'. Therm, at M. 55°. 
 
STEEKING DIRECT FOE TALCAHUANA. 135 
 
 Wednesday, May 9. — Fair but light wind during 
 the last twenty-four hours. The weather is delight- 
 fully pleasant, and all hands are on deck indulging 
 in a sun-bath. 
 
 The agony is over. This morning the Captain 
 altered the course of the brig, and since that time 
 we have been steering direct for Talcahuana, where 
 we hope to arrive day after to-morrow. This after- 
 noon, at the request of the Captain, I made out a 
 list of naval rations for eighty-two persons for 
 seventy days. The provisions will be purchased at 
 Talcahuana, and the probability is that we shall not 
 stop again until we reach San Francisco. This 
 evening one of the passengers had a severe attack 
 of the cramp colic which came very near causing him 
 to lose the number of his mess. Distance sailed, 
 180 miles. Lat. 38° 54'. Therm, at M. 57°. 
 
 Thursday, May 10. — "We are still blessed with a 
 fair wind, and are jogging along at the rate of six 
 knots an hour. Eoyal yards were sent up this 
 morning, and we have carried royals and studding- 
 sails during the day. The anchors were gotten over 
 the bow this afternoon, the chain cables hauled for- 
 ward and shackled, and everything forward made 
 ready for coming to anchor. During the afternoon 
 the tops and yards have been crowded with passen- 
 gers watching for land, but they have been disap- 
 pointed, no land being visible at sundown. 
 
 Yesterday morning, the second mate was called 
 aft by the Captain and restored to duty, and during 
 the remainder of the voyage he will be entitled to 
 the privilege of sleeping in the steerage and eating 
 
136 LAND IN SIGHT. 
 
 his meals in the cabin or galley. A school of 
 sperm-whales made their appearance yesterday 
 afternoon and accompanied us for several hours. 
 Distance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 37° SCf. Therm, 
 at M. 59°. 
 
 Friday, May 11. — We steered our course all last 
 night, but this morning the wind hauled around 
 to the northward and headed us off three or four 
 points. At meridian the Captain informed us that 
 we were 40 miles to the leeward of Talcahuana, 
 therefore there is little hope of reaching that port 
 to-morrow unless the'wind becomes more favorable. 
 
 This forenoon land was reported half a dozen 
 times by different individuals, but like the French- 
 man's flea, when they looked the second time it 
 was not there. At sundown, however, terra firma 
 was really discovered on our lee-bow, distant about 
 30 miles. Another school of whales visited us this 
 afternoon, and after following in our wake for an 
 hour turned flukes and disappeared. Several of 
 the passengers have been busily engaged skinning 
 and stuffing albatross and other sea-birds, but 
 whether they will ever reach the United States, 
 remains to be seen. Distance sailed, 112 miles. 
 Lat. 37° 12'. Therm, at M. 59°. 
 
 Saturday, May 12. — The wind continued ahead 
 all night, and in order to work the brig as far to 
 the windward as possible, the Captain wore her at 
 the commencement of each watch. 
 
 At daylight this morning, the Island of Santa 
 Maria and the Paps of Talcahuana were distinctly 
 in view; the latter on our weather bow, distant 
 
THE PAPS OF TALCAHUANA. 137 
 
 about 30 miles. We continued beating toward the 
 harbor during the forenoon, and would probably 
 have come to anchor ere this had we not encoun- 
 tered a norther, which compelled us to give the 
 land a wide berth ; therefore the Captain wore the 
 brig and stood to the westward, which course we 
 are steering at this time, eight o'clock, P. M. A 
 cold, drizzling rain has been falling at intervals 
 this afternoon, which has kept the passengers in 
 their quarters. 
 
 The Captain and first mate had another growl 
 in relation to the duty of the latter, and during the 
 wrangle the lie direct was given on both sides. The 
 old skipper swears that he will discharge the first 
 mate on our arrival in Talcahuana, and the second 
 mate says if the Captain does not serve him in like 
 manner he will take the liberty of discharging him- 
 self. It is probable that both mates will be dis- 
 charged at that place and other officers shipped 
 to fill the vacancies. Distance sailed, 40 miles. In 
 consequence of being in sight of land no observation 
 was taken at meridian. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Sunday, May 13. — The norther of yesterday con- 
 tinued blowing furiously until two o'clock this 
 morning, when it suddenly abated. Two hours 
 afterward, the wind hauled around to the north- 
 west, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to 
 the northward and eastward, which direction we 
 have continued all day. During last night we were 
 driven so far to the southward and westward that 
 we did not make the land again until five o'clock 
 this evening. At sundown we were about 15 miles 
 
138 LOOKING FOE LAND. 
 
 to the windward of the harbor of Talcahuana. 
 Owing to the darkness of the night the Captain 
 will not attempt to run in, but will lay off and on 
 until morning, when, if the wind remains fair, we 
 shall run into the harbor. The passengers have 
 been looking anxiously for land throughout the 
 entire day, and several have dressed themselves for 
 shore in order to be in readiness for the first boat 
 that leaves the brig after the anchor is down. 
 Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 36° 35'. Therm, 
 at M. 62°. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Put into the wrong harbor — Passengers go ashore — Reception 
 by the natives of De Chatta — Deserters — Dine with the 
 Alcalde — Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talca- 
 huana — Scenery en route — Chilian peasantry — Their respect 
 for the dead — ^Primitive wine-press and threshing-machine — 
 Quarter of a century later — Henry Meiggs — His arrival in 
 Chili — Brief sketch of his eventful life — Peace to his ashes. 
 
 Monday, May 14. — Last night about eight o'clock 
 we came very near running aground on a reef off 
 the harbor of Talcahuana, which caused a panic 
 among the passengers. We hugged the land closely 
 during the night, and at daylight this morning dis- 
 covered through the fog an opening, into which 
 we ran, the Captain supposing it to be the harbor 
 of Talcahuana, but soon discovering his mistake, 
 let go the anchor. When the sun had dispelled 
 the fog, we found ourselves in a small bay, the 
 name of which we could not determine. We could 
 not put to sea, as a stiff breeze was blowing directly 
 into the mouth of the bay ; therefore the Captain 
 concluded to go ashore and ascertain his where- 
 abouts. The skipper gave the passengers permis- 
 sion to accompany him, and the boats were soon 
 filled and pulling for the shore with willing hands. 
 We landed near a mud hut with a thatched roof, 
 which was occupied by an old man and woman, 
 who received us with a hearty welcome, and set 
 
 (139) 
 
140 m THE WRONG HAKBOE. 
 
 before us wine, bread and apples, to all of which we 
 did ample justice, and for which our host declined 
 to receive any remuneration. We, however, pre- 
 vailed on him to accept a cigar from each of us. 
 We endeavored by signs and gestures to ascertain 
 the name of the bay in which the brig was at anchor 
 and its distance from Talcahuana. To the former 
 question he shrugged his shoulders and shook 
 his head, and to the latter he pointed to the 
 southward. The old man soon started over the 
 sand-hills to the northward and beckoned us to 
 follow. From the top of the first hill we discovered 
 a settlement about a half-mile distant, consisting of 
 about twenty mud huts, for which we started at full 
 run. On our arrival in the village the men met us 
 with fear and trembling, and the women and chil- 
 dren took refuge in the huts and looked cautiously 
 at us through the cracks and holes in the walls, as 
 we passed. 
 
 Among the first party that met us at the entrance 
 to the village were a Yankee and an Englishman, 
 who had deserted from a whale-ship at Talcahuana 
 and were en route to Valparaiso, where they in- 
 tended to ship for San Francisco. From the Yan- 
 kee, we learned that the Osceola was at anchor in 
 the Bay De Chatta, 9 miles to the northward of 
 the harbor, and 27 miles from the town of Talca- 
 huana. We also learned that there was a road 
 leading to the village of Tome, distant about 7 
 miles and situated on the north-east side of the bay 
 of Talcahuana, from which place we could embark 
 in whale-boats and reach Talcahuana before night. 
 
ON THE EOAD TO TOME. 141 
 
 The Captain assented to our proposed adventure, 
 and, after dining at the house of the alcalde, myself 
 and thirteen other passengers started for Tome, 
 where we arrived at five o'clock, P. M. 
 
 The road was very muddy and slippery, caused 
 by the rain of the previous night, yet the scenery 
 through which it wound, and the numerous pictur- 
 esque views of the Bay De Chatta and harbor of 
 Talcahuana, doubly repaid us for the fatigue en- 
 dured while performing the journey. The peas- 
 antry of Chili are the most unsophisticated and 
 hospitable people I have ever met. During our 
 journey across the mountains we frequently stopped 
 at their huts for water, and they invariably offered 
 us wine, for which they declined to receive any 
 compensation. At one hut at which I called for a 
 drink of water, the senora was eating a quince, one- 
 half of which she presented to me and insisted on 
 my eating it. I complied without much persuasion, 
 as fruit of any kind was a luxury after having been 
 deprived of it for forty days. On the road we 
 passed several apple-orchards, vineyards, strawberry 
 patches and fields of wheat. At nearly all the road- 
 crossings, I noticed rudely-constructed crosses, one 
 of which, fashioned more smoothly than the others, 
 was entwined with evergreens and fancifully deco- 
 rated with flowers — the work, most likely, of some 
 dark-eyed senorita, who delighted in performing 
 this ofl&ce of affection over the grave of a lover or 
 brother. 
 
 Chilian wine possesses a peculiar flavor, which I 
 could not account for until I had witnessed the pro- 
 
142 A DIGEESSION. 
 
 cess of manufacture, which is decidedly primitive. 
 A large tub is partly filled with grapes which are 
 crushed by the naked feet of the natives, and after 
 fermentation the juice is bottled and labeled wine. 
 In justice to the grape-mashers, I will add, they 
 always wash their feet — after leaving the tub. 
 
 A Chilian threshing-machine is also quite as 
 primitive and novel as the wine-press. The thresh- 
 ing is executed by mule-power, without the aid of 
 machinery. A hard-beaten path or circle, very 
 much resembling a circus-ring, is formed around 
 the wheat-stack, and when ready for operation the 
 sheaves are thickly strewn around the circle, and 
 mules of all grades, good, bad and indifferent, are 
 turned loose into the inclosure and kept moving 
 lively to the music of the whip until the grain is 
 thoroughly separated from the sheaves. A Chilian 
 threshing-machine never requires oiling, but it 
 sometimes becomes obstinate and kicks up behind. 
 
 [With the reader's permission, I desire to digress 
 a moment from the thread of my narrative. A 
 quarter of a century has wrought wonderful changes 
 in the Republic of Chili. The wooden plough, 
 primitive wine-press and threshing-machine have 
 been supplanted by the introduction of modern and 
 improved Yankee appliances. The world moves, 
 and Chili now occupies a front seat in the car of 
 progress ! 
 
 To a single man, an American, is due in a large 
 measure her wonderful progress during the past 
 twenty-five years, and that man was the late Henky 
 Meiggs, who died at Lima, Peru, on the 29th day 
 
HENRY MEIGGS. 145 
 
 of September, 1877, aged sixty-eight years. Harry 
 Meiggs was, in many respects, one of the most re- 
 markable men of the present century. The follow- 
 ing brief history of his eventful life, gleaned from 
 various sources, is believed to be correct : 
 
 Henry Meiggs was born in Greene County, K. Y., 
 in the year 1811. He began life in Catskill as a 
 lumber merchant, with the late James Milliard, 
 who at that time was one of the most extensive 
 lumber dealers between New York and Albany. 
 Mr. Meiggs lived in Catskill until he was twenty- 
 five years of age, going from there in 1835 or 1836 
 to Williamsburgh, L. I., where he again went into 
 the lumber trade with Minor Keith, now living 
 near Babylon, L. I., who married his sister, Clara 
 Meiggs. Keith was formerly from Cairo, Greene 
 County, and brother-in-law of General George 
 Beach, ex-State Senator, who married his sister. 
 
 Mr. Meiggs remained with Milliard several years. 
 He was the leader of the choir in St. Luke's Church. 
 He was well versed in the lumber trade, highly 
 respected, a man of tremendous energy, physically 
 a perfect athlete, good-natured and gentlemanly. 
 Speaking of his fists — you should have seen them ! 
 But perhaps you have seen those of the late Tom 
 Hyer — Tom's mauleys were not the smallest. 
 
 Several friends went down to the Hook with 
 Meiggs when he sailed for California in 1849, on 
 board the old Havre packet-ship Albany. A party 
 of Catskill men accompanied him. 
 
 He arrived in San Francisco in July, 1849, 
 where he sold his ship-load of lumber at twenty 
 
146 MEIGGS'S SUCCESS. 
 
 times its cost, making a clear profit of |50,000 on 
 the venture. Then, with consummate discretion, he 
 took a subordinate position in a lumber-yard, and 
 studied all the phases and premises of the situa- 
 tion before he risked a dollar of his own capital. 
 Foreseeing the future greatness of San Francisco 
 and the inevitable demand for lumber, he quietly 
 matured schemes for a grand success. When 
 everything was ready, he hired five hundred men, 
 sent them into the forests of Contra Costa County, 
 felled the choicest trees in that then densely- wooded 
 region, hauled them in saw-logs to the shore of the 
 Bay of San Francisco, built them into huge rafts, 
 floated them to a wharf which he had constructed, 
 converted them into lumber by the agency of a 
 steam saw-mill which he had erected, and made 
 $500,000 in gold by the operation. 
 
 Thenceforth until he fell, Henry Meiggs was a 
 foremost man in California in business, in munici- 
 pal politics and in social life. He had three manias 
 — land, lumber and music. His land and lumber 
 operations were conducted on a scale of unprece- 
 dented magnitude ; and he was popularly believed 
 to be the richest man on the western coast of 
 America. But, when the great financial pressure 
 of 1854 seized California with its paralyzing grip, 
 bankruptcy came upon him like an armed man. 
 He rose to the contest with such enormous strength 
 and such resourceful genius, that, had he sought 
 only to save himself, he might have come off vic- 
 torious; but, with the ill-judged generosity which 
 was a pervading element of his character, he at- 
 
MEIGGS'S WHAEF AND MUSIC HALL. 147 
 
 tempted to save all Ms friends, and was by ttem 
 dragged down into bottomless ruin. 
 
 In the frenzy of tbat deatb-struggle Mr. Meiggs 
 succumbed to tbe tempter. He was a restless, alert 
 and enterprising man, having at tbe same time a 
 great deal of good nature, frank, open, obliging, 
 doing a good turn for others, and getting a great 
 many favors in return. Among the pioneers he 
 was a marked man. He was elected to the Board 
 of Aldermen as early as 1851, and served very 
 acceptably for two or three tenns. He ranked 
 among the better men who at that time were con- 
 nected with the municipal government. During 
 the latter part of his service as alderman he be- 
 came interested in street contracts, while engaged 
 largely in the lumber business. He built the long 
 pier known as Meiggs's Wharf, and probably did 
 more than any other man to develop the North 
 Beach side of the town. He built Music Hall, 
 on Bush Street, on a part of the site of the present 
 Occidental Hotel. At that time Harry Meiggs 
 was one of the most influential men of the city. 
 His reputation was good, and although he was a 
 venturesome man, yet he could command an almost 
 unbounded credit. 
 
 Captain Jacob Cousins, who was master of the 
 bark America, in which Meiggs made his exodus, 
 says that on the 26th of September, 1854, he was 
 in the cabin of the bark conversing with Captain 
 Wiggins, who was then in command of the vessel, 
 when Vickery Seaman, a warm personal friend of 
 Meiggs, and connected with him in business, came 
 
148 MEIGGS'S PLIGHT. 
 
 aboard and announced that lie had bought the ves- 
 sel, and asked Captain Cousins if he would take 
 charge of her. The Captain asked where the vessel 
 was going, to which Seaman replied, " Probably to 
 Australia with passengers, and I want you to ballast 
 the vessel and get ready for sea as soon as possible." 
 The Captain knew that Meiggs was very much 
 embarrassed financially, and suspected that he was 
 to be the principal passenger, but said nothing of 
 his suspicions, simply accepting the command. The 
 vessel was fitted up just as any ordinary lumber 
 coaster, as far as cabin accommodations were con- 
 cerned, with very little furniture, and no carpet on 
 the floor. The only extra expense incurred for the 
 comfort of the expected passengers was in furnishing 
 two small state-rooms forward for officers' quarters, 
 and the purchase of a second-hand sofa for the cabin. 
 On the 3d of October the Captain reported the vessel 
 ready for sea, and about nine o'clock the same even- 
 ing. Seaman came on board and told Captain Cousins 
 that Henry Meiggs and his family were the passen- 
 gers going in the ship. At midnight Seaman and 
 the Captain went ashore in the ship's boat alone, 
 landing at Broadway wharf, where they left the 
 boat and went up to Mr. Meiggs's residence. They 
 were met at the door by Mr. Meiggs, who took the 
 Captain by the hand, saying, " Captain, this is hell, 
 but I can't help it." In the house, besides Mrs. 
 Meiggs and her three children, were Ned Seaman, 
 a young man named Gilchrist, a clerk in Meiggs's 
 employ, John G. Meiggs, David Thayer, a cousin 
 of Meiggs, and two servant girls. The party sat 
 
TEYING DELAYS. 149 
 
 and talked until three o'clock in the morning, dur- 
 ing which, time Meiggs spoke freely of his troubles. 
 As the clock struck three, Captain Cousins an- 
 nounced that it was time they were going on board. 
 Meiggs jumped up, put on his hat, and giving it 
 a knock on the top, said, "I'm ready." John 
 Meiggs then produced a sack containing $10,000 in 
 gold, which was emptied out on a table and divided 
 into two equal portions. Captain Cousins taking one- 
 half and Henry Meiggs the other. This is all the 
 money that went on board of the vessel. The entire 
 party then walked down to the wharf, where Gil- 
 christ and Ned Seaman took leave, and the rest 
 getting into the boat, the Captain sculled them out 
 to the bark. In the morning a thick fog hung over 
 the bay, and there was not a breath of air stirring. 
 A tug was engaged to tow them out to sea, but the 
 fog was so dense that they could not find their way 
 out through the Golden Gate, and the vessel was 
 anchored off Fort Point. 
 
 About four o'clock in the afternoon they again 
 got under way, and were towed out as far as the 
 North Head. After making a few tacks, the Cap- 
 tain found that the tide was drifting them back into 
 the bay, and he was again forced to come to anchor. 
 At high water, the Captain hove up anchor and 
 drifted out with the tide in a dense fog. Toward- 
 morning a light wind sprang up from the land, and 
 by daylight they were half-way to the Farallones. 
 
 There they lay becalmed for two days, but the 
 fog was so thick that they felt no uneasiness about, 
 being followed. During all this time, Mr. Meiggs 
 
150 AEKIVAL IN CHTLI. 
 
 was calm and clieerful, not showing the slightest 
 sign of excitement. The story about the pistol in 
 readiness to commit suicide the Captain pronounced 
 absurd, as the only fire-arm on board was a revolver 
 belonging to himself, which was never loaded. A 
 breeze finally came, and the vessel was kept away 
 to the southward. After getting clear of the land, 
 Mr. Meiggs, in answer to an inquiry as to where he 
 wished to go, said to the Captain that he might go 
 where he pleased, but that he should like to see 
 some of the South Sea Islands, and then go to Aus- 
 tralia or Chili. They first went to Otahiti, where 
 they remained thirteen days, leaving there just 
 three days before the papers from San Francisco, 
 with an account of Meiggs's flight, arrived. They 
 then touched at Pitcairn Island, where they lay two 
 days, and from there sailed for Talcahuana, Chili. 
 Meiggs landed there and took his family up to the 
 city of Concepcion for a short time. 
 
 He engaged as sub-contractor of bridges on a 
 railroad then in process of construction in Chili. 
 His remarkable executive ability drew attention to 
 him. He was a driving man, and could get more 
 work out of native laborers than any one else. The 
 story of his sudden departure from San Francisco 
 injured him in his early efforts. But soon after 
 ex-Governor Bigler became Minister to Chili; a 
 kind-hearted man, who was disposed to look on the 
 better side of Meiggs's life. The fact that Bigler 
 recognized him and was on friendly terms with him, 
 produced a favorable impression upon the people. 
 Meiggs could not be a very bad man, if the Ameri- 
 
A STUPENDOUS EWTEEPEISE. 151 
 
 can Minister was disposed to overlook his irregu- 
 larities. A short time afterward, he contracted 
 with the Chilian government to complete the San- 
 tiago and Valparaiso Railroad in four years, for 
 112,000,000. He completed the work in about 
 two years, making a clear profit of over $1,300,000. 
 Then followed other gigantic railroad enterprises, 
 chief among which was the railroad from Arequipa 
 to Mollindo, in Peru, completed in 1871, from 
 which he derived a very large profit. He celebrated 
 the completion of this road by a lavish expenditure 
 of money for a public dinner and for gold and silver 
 medals, the outlay being not less than three-fourths 
 of a million dollars. He afterward contracted for 
 six railways in Peru, most of which he completed, 
 the longest being that which extends from Callao 
 to the summit of the Andes and beyond, and 
 which was intended to tap the rich valleys near the 
 head waters of the Amazon River. It was the most 
 stupendous enterprise ever undertaken by one man. 
 The engineering on this railroad is one of the mar- 
 vels of the world. But the road did not pay, and 
 for two or three years Meiggs fell into financial em- 
 barrassments. He seems at all times to have had 
 the confidence of the government, and it is under- 
 stood that the Peruvian government indorsed all 
 his railroad paper, although this did not bring 
 him out of his difiiculties. He was the financial 
 brains of Peru. His last project was to tap some 
 famous silver mines and make the transportation 
 of the ores to the coast a profitable business for 
 his road. Had he lived, he would probably have 
 
152 BKAVE, NOBLE HENRY MEIGGS. 
 
 developed a new era of silver-mining in Peru, in 
 connection with his railroad enterprises. His finan- 
 cial troubles no doubt shortened his life by many 
 years. He carried a load which finally crushed 
 him. As a railroad builder, he stood in the front 
 rank. He was a man, also, of considerable taste. 
 His residence near the road, between Callao and 
 Lima, was one of the grandest palaces occupied by 
 any private individual in South America. 
 
 A few years ago, the friends of Meiggs in Cali- 
 fornia sought to have his disabilities removed, so 
 that he might return to that State. A bill to this 
 effect became a law, but he never returned. He 
 provided for the redemption of his outstanding 
 paper in that State, and to a great extent he re- 
 deemed the great error of his early life. For that 
 error nothing now need be said by way of palliation. 
 It was the cloud on the life of a man whose after- 
 career was an honorable record, and who was, in 
 respect to great enterprises, the most conspicuous 
 man of modern times. 
 
 Brave, noble, generous, chivalric Harry Meiggs ! 
 We all recollect the blazing cathedral at Santiago, 
 and how he risked his own life to save the lives of 
 others. That was Meiggs all over. As to his 
 failings, let him that has none cast the first stone. 
 Those who knew him, loved him. They will drop 
 a tear to his memory^ 
 
CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 Arrive at Tome — Dog-meat vs. mutton — Embark in a -whale- 
 boat for Talcaliuana — The Red Lion and its landlord — The 
 Senoritas — A night on a dining-table — The market — -Coal 
 mines — Feast on muscles — Funeral of a whaleman — Chilian 
 fandango — Chilians, male and female — Females making 
 their toilet — Passengers arrive from De Chatta — Arrival of 
 the Osceola in the harbor of Taloahuana — Breach of the 
 Marine Laws of Chili — Threatened confiscation of the brig 
 — ^Visit to the city of Concepcion — California-bound vessels 
 in Talcahuana — Funeral procession — ^Visit to the Paps. 
 
 Tome contains about two hundred adobe huts 
 with thatched roofs and earth floors, and a popula- 
 tion of about one thousand persons. Among its 
 residents are fifteen or twenty Americans and Eng- 
 lishmen connected with the flouring mills, and they 
 are literally coining money. Dogs are as plentiful 
 in Tome as negroes in Rio, and fleas are abundant 
 both in and out of doors. Bow-wow meat is con- 
 sidered as great a delicacy with the Chilians as is 
 rat flesh among the inhabitants of the Celestial Em- 
 pire. I saw a dog on the stall of a butcher dressed 
 ready for market, which circumstance will prevent 
 me from eating mutton during my stay in Chili. 
 Whistling was strictly prohibited in that market. 
 
 At sundown we chartered a whale-boat for f 10 
 to convey us across the bay to Talcahuana, distant 
 21 miles, and after shivering in the night-air for 
 four hours, arrived at our destination. 
 
 (153) 
 
154 BEDS NOT ON BILL OF FARE. 
 
 On our arrival, we repaired to the Red Lion 
 Hotel, kept by a Yankee of the name of Keen, 
 where we partook of a miserably-cooked supper for 
 which we paid three reals each. After supper we 
 informed the landlord that we wished to retire for 
 the night, but imagine our surprise on being told 
 that he had no beds. He informed us that lodging 
 was not on his bill of fare, boarders not being 
 lodged at any of the hotels in town. He very 
 politely informed us that we could be accommo- 
 dated with lodgings by the senoritas about town, 
 they being the only persons authorized to take in 
 strangers during the night. Several of the party 
 followed the directions of the landlord, but myself 
 and ten others obtained permission to make a field- 
 bed on the dining-tables, where we slept soundly 
 until morning, although the fleas punctured us 
 severely. 
 
 Tuesday, May 15. — After breakfast, accompanied 
 by a party of friends, I visited the market, a rudely- 
 constructed one-story frame building, resembling 
 very much a row of sheds, inclosing a hollow square. 
 The area or court, about eighty feet square, at the 
 time of our visit was occupied by a squad of half- 
 naked natives pitching reals, a silver coin of about 
 the value of one dime United States currency. 
 The sheds inclosing the area were divided into 
 stalls, in which were exposed for sale flesh, fish and 
 fowl of various kinds, and fruit in great abundance. 
 The pears and grapes were truly luscious. 
 
 From the market we strolled leisurely along the 
 beach toward the southern part of the town for the 
 
BUKIAL OF A WHALEMAN. 155 
 
 purpose of visiting the coal mines. Tlie bituminous 
 coal taken from these mines is of a good quality and 
 yields a fair profit to the owner, an Englishman, 
 long a resident of the country. 
 
 On the beach to the southward of the coal mines 
 we discovered the bones of a huge monster, which 
 we conjectured to be a mastodon, but I have since 
 learned that it was the skeleton of that leviathan 
 of the deep — a whale. 
 
 Having heard the South American muscles very 
 highly spoken of by epicures, I resolved upon test- 
 ing their quality. I accordingly repaired to the 
 boat of a fisherman and by gestures made known 
 my wants to the owner. A fire was soon kindled 
 on the beach, and a quantity of bivalves placed 
 around it, and, as fast as roasted, I devoured them 
 with a gusto that would have caused a blush on the 
 face of a New York alderman. 
 
 In the afternoon I attended the funeral of a 
 young man belonging to the whale-ship Franklin 
 of New Bedford, who was poisoned by one of the 
 Cyprians of Talcahuana during a fit of jealousy. 
 The poison was administered in wine, and he sur- 
 vived the fatal drug forty-eight hours. His remains 
 were followed from the custom-house landing to the 
 burial-ground by a procession of over five hundred 
 Americans, a majority of whom belong to the Cali- 
 fornia passenger vessels at anchor in this port. At 
 the grave a chapter was read from the Bible and 
 an impressive and appropriate prayer made by the 
 doctor of the ship Trescott of Boston. At the 
 conclusion of the prayer the cofiin was lowered into 
 
156 A CHILIAN FANDANGO. 
 
 the grave, and the "clods of the valley" soon hid 
 from mortal ken the remains of one who, but a few 
 months previously, had left the home of his boy- 
 hood with buoyant spirits and elated hopes to be 
 cut down in a strange land, without father, mother, 
 sister or brother to soothe his last moments or listen 
 to his dying prayer; but he died surrounded by 
 friends, and his remains were deposited in their last 
 earthly resting-place by his own countrymen, who 
 dropped many a tear on the grave of the young 
 whaleman who had found a premature grave in a 
 foreign land. 
 
 In the evening, accompanied by five or six 
 friends, I strolled about the town for the purpose 
 of "seeing the elephant" in Chili. We visited 
 several fandango establishments, well filled with 
 mixed audiences, who were 
 
 " Tripping tlie light fantastic toe," 
 
 to the music of the castanets and guitar. The 
 Chilian women — those whom I have seen — are not 
 very prepossessing. They are low in stature and 
 inclined to corpulency, which gives them a squatty 
 appearance. Their hair and eyes are jet black, and 
 complexion a light copper color. Their cheek- 
 bones are very prominent, and the general contour 
 of their faces reminds one very much of the North 
 American Indians. They paint highly, and, like 
 their American sisters, are passionately fond of 
 dress, invariably preferring bright and gaudy colors. 
 The males are somewhat taller than the females, 
 but in complexion and general features resemble 
 
CHEAP LABOK AND CHEAP BEEF. 157 
 
 tliem very much. They are generally an idle, 
 indolent class of people, laboring only when ne- 
 cessity compels them to do so. The Chilians are 
 blessed with a soil as fertile as any on which the 
 sun shines, and their climate is a perpetual sum- 
 mer ; yet, with all these natural advantages, they 
 remain a poor, flea-bitten, priest-ridden people ! 
 In the cities and large towns native labor commands 
 only one real, twelve and a half cents, per day, and 
 in the country, scarcely half that amount. Ameri- 
 can and English mechanics receive from $3 to $10 
 per day, and clerks and accountants from $1,500 to 
 $2,000 per annum. 
 
 At night, I occupied my former quarters on the 
 dining-table at the Red Lion, with fleas here, there 
 and everywhere, but not one could I catch. 
 
 Wednesday, May 16. — Early this morning I 
 visited the slaughter-house, situated on a small 
 stream in the northern suburb of the town. Dur- 
 ing the half-hour I remained there, some six or 
 eight beeves were killed and dressed ready for the 
 market. Beef in Talcahuana is remarkably cheap, 
 selling on an average at three cents per pound. On 
 my return to town I passed half a dozen dark-eyed 
 senoritas seated on the ground around a spring of 
 water making their toilets. As I approached them, 
 they arose and saluted me in the language of the 
 country, which I could not understand, but presume 
 it was complimentary. I therefore raised my hat, 
 made one of my best bows and passed on. 
 
 On reaching the town, I stopped at a ten-pin alley 
 kept by a Yankee from New Bedford, where I met 
 
158 THE OSCEOLA AND HER CAEGO IN PEEIL. 
 
 eight or ten of my fellow-passengers just arrived 
 from De Chatta, where the Osceola lay wind-bound 
 when they left her at three o'clock yesterday after- 
 noon. They left the brig at so late an hour that 
 they were benighted on the road and compelled to 
 remain over night at the hacienda of a farmer, who 
 treated them with great kindness and hospitality. 
 They were feasted on eggs, bread, apples, grapes and 
 wine during the first part of the night, and during 
 the latter part, by way of variety, were treated to a 
 little flea-botomy. 
 
 From the ten-pin alley we went down to the cus- 
 tom-house landing, and looking toward the mouth 
 of the harbor saw a brig beating in which proved 
 to be the Osceola, and in about two hours she came 
 to anchor off the town. After the brig had been 
 boarded by the Port Captain and Custom-house 
 OflBcer, we chartered a boat and went on board. As 
 soon as we reached the deck the Captain informed 
 us that the brig, by running into the Bay De 
 Chatta, had committed a breach of the marine 
 laws of Chili and, he feared, would be confiscated. 
 The Captain of the port informed Captain Fair- 
 fowl, that the Osceola with her cargo was liable to 
 confiscation, in consequence of the passengers having 
 landed before the vessel had been boarded by the 
 port oflQcers. I think we shall be able to prove to 
 the entire satisfaction of the Chilian government 
 that we put into De Chatta by mistake, and that no 
 contraband goods have been landed from the brig. 
 I fear we shall be detained in port longer than may 
 prove agreeable, and perhaps compelled to pay a 
 
AT CONCEPCION. 159 
 
 fine; but I cannot believe tliat tbe brig and her 
 cargo will be confiscated. If so, God help us pas- 
 sengers. 
 
 Having slept very little during the two previous 
 nights, I stripped off my clothes, shook the fleas out 
 of my pantaloons and turned into my berth with 
 the hope of enjoying a good night's rest, and I was 
 not disappointed. 
 
 Thursday, May 17. — I went on shore at eight 
 o'clock this morning and joined a party of friends 
 who were about to start on foot for the city of Con- 
 cepcion, 9 miles distant. We set out, staff in hand, 
 and after traveling three hours over a sandy road, 
 arrived at the city of a thousand earthquakes very 
 much fatigued and as hungry as half-famished 
 wolves. On the road we met several Chilians 
 armed to the teeth, but we passed unmolested, 
 although those Job's comforters, the Talcahuanans, 
 informed us that we would be lassoed and robbed 
 en route ! Passing through a thicket of chaparral, 
 we saw several of the cut-throat gentry near the 
 road mounted on ponies, with lassos hanging in 
 coils over the horns of their saddles. As we passed 
 them they cried out in broken English, " Califor- 
 nia !" and spurring their animals, soon disappeared 
 in the bushes. On our arrival in the city, we or- 
 dered dinner at a hotel kept by a Yankee from the 
 land of baked beans and pumpkin pies, of the 
 name of Brooks. Our dinner consisted of boiled 
 eggs, stewed chickens, beefsteak and potatoes, with 
 a dessert of cheese, grapes and pears, which we 
 quickly dispatched. After dinner I had a chat 
 
 10 
 
160 A YANKEE HOTEL-KEEPEK. 
 
 with Brooks, wlio informed me that he deserted 
 from a whale-ship on this coast six years ago, and 
 in the meantime had worked at brickmaking, shoe- 
 making, carpentering, butchering, and had during 
 the past four months kept a hotel, which he in- 
 formed me was the luckiest move of his life. He 
 said he was coining money. At parting I shook 
 him heartily by the hand — for he had given us a 
 good dinner at a reasonable price — and wished him 
 continued success in the hotel business. He thanked 
 me, and added, when business got dull he would 
 pull up stakes and squat in California. 
 
 After leaving the Yankee landlord, we strolled 
 through the city for a short time, and toward night 
 clambered to the top of a mountain near by for the 
 purpose of viewing the city and surrounding coun- 
 try. From our elevated position we had a magnifi- 
 cent view of Concepcion, the surrounding country 
 and the River Biobio, winding at the base of 
 green hills and furrowed ravines, on its way to the 
 Pacific. 
 
 The city of Concepcion is situated on the north- 
 ern bank of the Biobio, about 10 miles above its 
 entrance into the ocean, and is built on a plain, 
 surrounded on three sides by high hills. Concep- 
 cion, at this time, contains about thirteen hundred 
 one-story houses and mud huts and a population of 
 fifteen thousand inhabitants, one-eighth of whom 
 are foreigners. In the year 1836, the entire city, 
 with the exception of three houses, was destroyed 
 by an earthquake, and all the buildings erected since 
 that time, with two exceptions, the cathedral and 
 
THE HOUSES OP COWCEPCION. 161 
 
 the residence of ttie governor, are one story high. 
 Every attempt during the past hundred years to 
 add an additional story to the former has proved 
 abortive. Before the walls had become thoroughly 
 dry, an earthquake shock would crack them so 
 badly that life and limb required their removal. 
 But hope on, hope ever, seems to be the prevailing 
 motto with the Chilians, and I presume the process 
 of shaking down and rebuilding will continue in- 
 definitely. The habitations of the poorer classes 
 are built of adobes, with thatched roofs and earth 
 floors. The wealthier classes live in more substan- 
 tial buildings, the walls being fully three feet in 
 thickness, and in many instances constructed of 
 kiln-burned bricks. The roofs are mostly covered 
 with tiles composed of the same materials as the 
 bricks, and the floors are also constructed of large ob- 
 long bricks or tiles, and in many cases covered with 
 Brussels and Turkish carpets of rare and exquisite 
 workmanship. The dwellings of the aristocracy 
 are built in the form of a hollow square, the area or 
 court in the centre answering the double purpose of 
 house and stable-yard. 
 
 This being Ascension Day, and the inhabitants 
 zealous Catholics, nearly all the shops and other 
 places of business were closed; consequently, the city 
 presented rather a sombre and gloomy appearance. 
 In the evening we fell in with a Frenchman, for ten 
 years a resident of Chili, who informed us that he 
 would accommodate some of our party with lodgings. 
 Three of us accepted his invitation and accom- 
 
162 A FULL BILL OF FAEE. 
 
 panied him home, where we found good beds and 
 few fleas. 
 
 Friday, May 18. — We arose at eight o'clock, A. 
 M., very much refreshed with a good night's rest, 
 and while breakfast was being prepared, our host 
 showed us around his premises, which would have 
 done credit to a citizen of the land of steady habits. 
 He carried on baking, shoemaking, tanning and 
 last, though not least, " took in strangers " and sold 
 aguardiente and vino. The different branches of 
 business carried on under the same roof were all 
 under the supervision of our host, who informed us 
 that he was making very mooch monish, and judging 
 from aj)pearances he told the truth. 
 
 Breakfast was delayed until half-past ten o'clock, 
 but what was lost in time was fully made wp in 
 variety, as the following bill of fare will attest: 
 First course, chicken soup ; second ditto, beefsteak 
 and onions ; third ditto, fried fish ; fourth ditto, 
 boiled fish, dressed with butter ; fifth ditto, baked 
 leg of mutton and celery ; sixth ditto, cheese, fruit 
 and wine. Each of us being blessed with a good 
 appetite, the different courses disappeared rapidly, 
 which, to use the little Frenchman's own words, 
 pleased him very mooch. There were others present 
 equally well pleased. 
 
 After breakfast we visited the store of a Phila- 
 delphian, of the name of Johns, who had just left 
 for Talcahuana, therefore we did not have the plea- 
 sure of making his acquaintance. His clerk, how- 
 ever, introduced us to Mrs. Johns, a Chilian lady, 
 rather above the medium size and very fleshy. 
 
A HORSEBACK EIDS. 163 
 
 Her countenance was quite pleasing and her eyes 
 and hair as dark as the wing of a raven. She re- 
 gretted very much her husband's absence, and in 
 broken English urged us very strongly to remain 
 until his return, as he would be very much pleased 
 to meet with Philadelphians. We were compelled 
 to decline her kind invitation, but before leaving 
 took the liberty of using for a few moments a Fair- 
 bank's scales standing in the store. I kicked the 
 beam at one hundred and forty-five pounds, having 
 added fifteen pounds to my avoirdupois since leav- 
 ing Philadelphia. After sauntering about the city 
 until three o'clock, P. M., we bade Concepcion adieu 
 and started for Talcahuana, where we arrived at six 
 o'clock. 
 
 We were overtaken on the road by two Chilians 
 on horseback, who requested two of our party to 
 ride behind them to Talcahuana. Mr. Butcher and 
 I availed ourselves of their kind offer, and mount- 
 ing were soon galloping over the road in advance 
 of our companions. The horse on which my 
 friend Butcher was astride, unfortunately for that 
 gentleman, had a very prominent backbone, which 
 caused the rider to sit as lightly thereon as pos- 
 sible. After riding about a mile, friend B. com- 
 menced screwing and turning like an eel under- 
 going the skinning process. He reminded me 
 very much of a lad I once saw with a nettle in 
 the seat of his trouserloons. At length his seat 
 became so unpleasant that he resolved to leave it at 
 the risk of his neck. All endeavors to induce the 
 Chilian to stop his horse were unavailing ; therefore 
 
164 POSTAGE TO PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 he watched for a soft spot in the road and slid off 
 stern foremost over the tail of the horse. Not 
 wishing to leave my friend alone on the road, I dis- 
 mounted and, giving the Chilian a real, walked back 
 to assist B. in adjusting his apparel, a certain por- 
 tion of which was sadly demoralized. 
 
 Friend Butcher and I being too much fatigued 
 to go on board the brig, engaged a bunk in a 
 fandango house, into which we both bundled and 
 slept soundly until morning. 
 
 Saturday, May 19. — During the voyage I have 
 grown so fleshy that it is with extreme difficulty I 
 can wear my clothes. This morning I carried my 
 coat to a tailor for the purpose of having the sleeves 
 enlarged, and I hope hereafter to be able to wear 
 it with more comfort. Afterward I went to the 
 office of the agent of the English mail steamers, in 
 order to ascertain the postage on a letter to the 
 United States, via Panama, and was somewhat sur- 
 prised to learn that it was $1. I went on board 
 the brig, wrote a letter to my wife, returned to the 
 office of the agent and mailed it for Philadelphia, 
 where it will probably arrive in about fifty days. 
 
 During the past two weeks the following passen- 
 ger vessels bound for California have put into this 
 port for water and provisions : 
 
 From New York, ships Albany and Panama, 
 and brig Oeorgiana. From Boston, ships Trescott 
 and Leonore, bark Oxford, and brig Mary Wilder. 
 Brig Charlotte, Newburyport, Mass.; ship Hopewell, 
 Warren, P. I. ; bark Diamond, New Bedford, Mass., 
 and brig John Petty, Norfolk, Va. 
 
FUNERAL PEOCESSION. 165 
 
 On board of these vessels are nearly one thousand 
 Americans bound for the gold-diggings of Cali- 
 fornia. The Chilians have fitted out three vessels 
 at this port for San Francisco; two of which have 
 sailed and the third is on the eve of departure. 
 Several foreigners, resident at this place, have en- 
 gaged passage on board the American vessels lying 
 in this port bound for the new El Dorado. 
 
 Saturday, May 20. — I went ashore at eight 
 o'clock this morning and visited the market for the 
 purpose of treating myself to grapes and apples, and 
 while there a pretty senorita presented me with a 
 bouquet of flowers. Soon after leaving the market 
 I met a party of friends on their way to the Maiden's 
 Paps, two very high hills overlooking the town, and 
 at their request I accompanied them. 
 
 On our way we passed a procession of children 
 bearing, on a rudely-constructed bier, a fancifully- 
 ornamented coffin containing the remains of an 
 infant which they were about to consign to mother- 
 earth. The little mourners appeared very sorrow- 
 ful, and to mQ the scene was deeply affecting and 
 impressive. My thoughts wandered back to a little 
 golden-haired darling I had left behind me, and as 
 I turned away unbidden tears dimmed my eyes. 
 
 After a fatiguing walk of an hour, we reached 
 the summit of the higher pap, from which we had 
 a magnificent view of the town and Bay of Talca- 
 huana, the city of Concepcion, the Biobio winding 
 like a silver thread among the hills and ravines, 
 the little village of Tome nestling at the foot of the 
 mountains on the eastern shore of the bay, and the 
 
166 VIEW OF TALCAHUANA FKOM THE PAPS. 
 
 waters of the Pacific rolling and breaking over the 
 reefs and dashing against the rock-bound shore. 
 From our elevated position, every street and nearly 
 every building in Talcahuana could be distinctly 
 seen. 
 
CHAPTEE X. 
 
 Description of Talcahuana — Theft of a water-cask — Punish- 
 ment of the culprit — Our indebtedness to Captain Finch — 
 The American consul — Departure from Talcahuana — Scene 
 in the harbor — Gambling on board — Salt-water dumplings — 
 Becalmed — Increase in the price of mining implements — 
 General washday — Magnificent scene — Passengers on an 
 exploring expedition — Set-to between the Captain and cook 
 — First knockdown for the cook — Sugar served out pro 
 rata. 
 
 The town of Talcaliuana contains about three 
 hundred adobe houses and mud huts and, perhaps, 
 three thousand inhabitants. The present town has 
 been built within the last thirteen years, the old town 
 having been thrown down in 1836 by the earth- 
 quake that destroyed Concepcion. The dwellings 
 in Talcahuana, like those of Concepcion, are only 
 one story high, and the walls are constructed of 
 adobes or reeds plastered with mud. The adobe 
 walls are of immense thickness, and the roofs are 
 mostly thatched with a species of long sea-grass. 
 In a majority of the houses and stores there are no 
 plank or board floors. In the dwellings of the 
 aristocracy the floors are of tile, but the poorer classes 
 are always on the " ground floor." The streets are 
 irregularly laid out, and the buildings erected with- 
 out any regard to beauty or uniformity. The streets 
 are unpaved, consequently they are very dusty 
 
 (167) 
 
168 TAEGET PKACTICE. 
 
 durmg the dry season, and in rainy weatlier are 
 extremely muddy and filthy. 
 
 This afternoon the town seems to be overrun with 
 los Americanos. There are at least five hundred 
 California passengers on shore, and to use a nautical 
 phrase, they are putting the town "in stays." 
 Being foot-sore and weary, at five o'clock, P. M., I 
 hired a boat and went on board the Osceola. 
 
 Monday, May 21. — After breakfast I went ashore 
 and purchased a hamper of apples, a Chilian cheese, 
 two dozen loaves of bread and twenty pounds of 
 flour — private stores for the balance of the voyage. 
 After carrying my provisions on board the brig, I 
 returned with my rifle for target practice. Having 
 obtained permission from the Captain of the port 
 to use fire-arms on shore, I repaired to a ravine 
 in the suburbs of the town and practiced until 
 noon. I fired some twenty shots, at the distance 
 of eighty yards, and, strange to say, the target was 
 not injured in the least. On my return to the 
 brig, I learned from one of our sailors at the 
 ship's watering-place that one of the water-casks 
 belonging to the Osceola had been stolen by a 
 native and found secreted in his hut. The cir- 
 cumstance was reported to the Captain of the port, 
 and in about an hour afterward the culprit was 
 arrested and compelled to march before a guard of 
 soldiers to the watering-place, with a rogue's cap on 
 his head and a ladder on his shoulders. On ar- 
 riving at the place where the theft was committed, 
 he was lashed to the ladder and while in that posi- 
 tion received on his bare back twenty-five lashes 
 
THE MARINE LAWS AND THE OSCEOLA. 169 
 
 with the end of a lasso, well laid on by a drummer. 
 He received the first dozen lashes without a mur- 
 mur, but as each remaining lash fell upon the 
 quivering flesh, he howled like a savage. On being 
 released, he went among the crowd with his hat and 
 took up a collection amounting to upwards of $3. 
 He received the money with great delight, and I 
 have no doubt he would have willingly submitted 
 to another flogging for a like sum. At suudown 
 I went on board the brig. 
 
 Tuesday, May 22. — After breakfast I went on 
 shore with my fowling-piece for the purpose of 
 shooting ducks. I walked along the beach for sev- 
 eral miles without seeing any game worth bagging. 
 I then struck off to the right, crossed over a hill 
 and entered a ravine where I found robins and 
 other small birds in abundance. I soon killed a 
 dozen robins and returned to town. From a fellow- 
 passenger I learned that it was currently reported 
 about town, that the Chilian government intended 
 to seize the Osceola for an infringement of their 
 marine laws in landing passengers at De Chatta be- 
 fore being boarded by the port officers. The Cap- 
 tain and passengers are very much excited about 
 the matter. This morning a hearing was had be- 
 fore the Captain of the port, witnesses examined, 
 etc., but no decision was reached, and the case will 
 most likely be sent to a higher tribunal at Concep- 
 cion. Mr. Wainwright, our supercargo, was dis- 
 patched to headquarters this morning, for the pur- 
 pose of setting matters in their true light before the 
 officials. He returned 'at sundown without bringing 
 
170 EESOLVE TO TAKE " PEENCH LEAVE." 
 
 a decision, the judges having gotten matters so 
 badly mixed that they are unable to decide defi- 
 nitely. They will dream over the matter to-night 
 and wrestle with it again to-morrow. 
 
 The American consul at this port — Crosby, from 
 Ohio — although appointed by a Democratic Presi- 
 dent, is a dyed-in-the-wool "Know Nothing." Had 
 he performed his duty promptly in this matter, 
 nothing serious would have grown out of it. Either 
 through ignorance, fear or connivance with the 
 Chilian government, he has rendered us no assist- 
 ance. 
 
 I went on board the brig at four o'clock, P. M., 
 and had broiled robins for supper. 
 
 Wednesday, May 23. — I have resolved not to go 
 ashore again while we lay in this port, unless com- 
 pelled by the Chilian government to do so. Have 
 been engaged during the forenoon mending my 
 clothing. In the afternoon I repaired a gun-lock, 
 cleaned and oiled my fire-arms and laid them aside 
 ready for use on my arrival in California. 
 
 No decision in the Osceola case having been re- 
 ceived by our Captain, Captain Finch, a merchant 
 of this place, has volunteered his services to go up 
 to Concepcion and urge a speedy settlement of the 
 matter. He will return to-morrow morning, and 
 should the decision be adverse, we have resolved to 
 slip our cable and put to sea. The guns at the fort 
 have been double-manned to-day, and should we 
 attempt to take French leave we shall probably 
 receive a few shots, but we are fully determined to 
 make the attempt and abide 'the consequences. 
 
THE CAPTAIN IMBIBES TOO MUCH WINE. 1 71 
 
 Both of our mates have been discharged, and 
 the Captain is again without ofl&cers. We have 
 had four mates since we left Philadelphia, and 
 God only knows how many more we shall have 
 before we reach California. Two sailors came on 
 board the Osceola to-day and volunteered to work 
 their passage to San Francisco, and the offer has 
 been accepted by Captain Fairfowl. Our provisions 
 and water are now all on board, and if we had our 
 clearance papers we should sail without mates. 
 
 Thursday, May 24. — Last night the wind blew 
 very fresh from the north, and every indication of a 
 norther was visible. In the early part of the even- 
 ing the sailors went ashore, and the brig was left 
 entirely to the care of the passengers. Chain was 
 paid out several times during the night for the pur- 
 pose of preventing the brig from dragging her 
 anchor. 
 
 Yesterday afternoon Captain Fairfowl went 
 ashore, and during his peregrinations about town 
 took too much " wine for his stomach's sake." In 
 his endeavors to get on board the brig, the boat 
 swamped and he lost his hat and got thoroughly 
 drenched with salt water. About eight o'clock, 
 P. M., one of our passengers came across the old 
 skipper pacing the beach in front of the custom- 
 house, bareheaded. He was taken to a hotel and 
 persuaded to remain there during the night. In 
 the morning, dry clothes were sent on shore to him, 
 and after making his toilet he came on board the 
 brig looking rather crest-fallen. He says the wine 
 he drank was drugged. 
 
172 GOOD KEWS FKOM CONCEPCION. 
 
 Captain Finch returned from Concepcion to-day 
 witli the news that we will be permitted to depart 
 from Talcahuana in peace, provided we pay the 
 expenses incurred in the case, amounting in the 
 aggregate to fifty dollars. Our Captain will ac- 
 quiesce in this decision, and we shall probably 
 sail to-morrow. 
 
 The Captain shipped a first mate to-day, which 
 means business. One of our passengers came on 
 board this afternoon as tight as bricks and as noisy 
 as a demon. 
 
 Friday, May 25. — Last night the wind com- 
 menced blowing from the north, and toAvard morn- 
 ing rain began to fall, and it has been blowing 
 and raining throughout the day, causing a heavy 
 swell in the harbor and a tremendous surf on the 
 beach. Our new mate and the sailors took " French 
 liberty" last night — not one remaining on board — 
 and the Captain was compelled to call on the pas- 
 sengers to keep anchor-watch. 
 
 Captain Finch went up to Concepcion again to- 
 day and made a final settlement of our case. We 
 are promised our clearance papers this evening or 
 to-morrow morning, and shall sail as soon as the 
 wind will permit. 
 
 All hands are anxious to be on the wing again. 
 Had the weather permitted, the Americans belong- 
 ing to the California passenger vessels would have 
 marched in procession through Talcahuana to-day. 
 During the afternoon our passengers have been 
 coming on board laden with fruit, nuts and bread, 
 preparatory to sailing. The old skipper has been 
 
LEAVE TALCAHTTANA. 173 
 
 sampling drugged wine again. He came on board 
 this evening as merry as a lark. 
 
 Saturday, May 26. — Tlie rain is still pouring 
 down, and a stiff breeze has been blowing into tbe 
 barbor all day, wbicb has prevented us from 
 getting under way and putting to sea. Our new 
 mate has already become dissatisfied with the 
 Captain, and is just going over the side of the brig 
 with his bag and 'baggage. Another first mate 
 was shipped this evening, but I fear we shall lose 
 him unless we sail soon. The Captain has been 
 " working up " the sailors to-day, by causing them 
 to scrub paint-work in the rain. We are now 
 ready for sea, and are waiting for a fair wind to 
 take our departure. 
 
 Sunday, May 27. — The rain poured down in 
 torrents all last night, and early this morning we 
 were completely enveloped by a dense fog. At 
 sunrise the fog disappeared, and the day has been 
 delightfully pleasant. 
 
 After breakfast the anchor was hove short, and 
 at ten o'clock, A. M., we received our clearance 
 papers from the Port Captain, got under way, and 
 at meridian passed the Island of Quiriquina, at 
 the entrance to the harbor, and were soon at sea, 
 gliding merrily along over the swelling billows of 
 the Pacific. 
 
 At the mouth of the harbor we spoke the Cali- 
 fornia passenger ship Christoval Colon, of New 
 York, bound in for a supply of provisions and 
 water. The American brig Mary Wilder, bound 
 for California, got under way about an hour before 
 
174 AFTEE-CABIN AND STEEKAGE. 
 
 US, but we passed her in tlie harbor, and at this 
 time, six o'clock, P. M., she is fully 10 miles 
 astern of us. As we passed the Christoval Colon, 
 cheers were exchanged, and our band, consisting of 
 a bugle, cornet and trombone, struck up the "Star- 
 Spangled Banner," which was cheered at intervals 
 by the passengers of the Colon and Ilary Wilder, 
 until their voices were drowned by the dashing of 
 the waves against the prow of the Osceola. 
 
 As soon as we were outside the harbor, studding- 
 sails were set below and aloft, and the coast of Chili 
 rapidly disappeared in the distance. 
 
 Monday, May 28. — During last night and to- 
 day the Osceola has been gliding along before a 
 delightful breeze with all studding-sails set. This 
 morning at daylight the Mary Wilder was about 
 10 miles astern of us, and at sundown she was 
 nearly hull down. The weather has been very 
 pleasant, and I hope it will continue so during the 
 remainder of the passage. 
 
 This morning angry words passed between the 
 after-cabin and steerage passengers in relation to 
 their rights on shipboard. One of the former 
 intimated that the steerage passengers had no right 
 to promenade the quarter-deck. This brought the 
 steerage boys out in full force, and a long contro- 
 versy ensued, in which both parties took an active 
 part. The matter was finally referred to the Cap- 
 tain, who decided that the steerage passengers had 
 the same right to the use of the quarter-deck as 
 their aristocratic neighbors of the cabin. The 
 opinion among the steerage passengers to-day is. 
 
JUAW FERNAIirDEZ. 175 
 
 that Captain Fairfowl's head is perfectly level. 
 Distance sailed, 147 miles. Lat. 34° 65'. Therm, 
 at M. 58°. 
 
 Tuesday, May 29. — Throughout last night the 
 wind continued fair, but this morning it hauled 
 ahead, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to 
 the westward. At eleven o'clock, A. M., the wind 
 hauled around fair again, and since that time we 
 have been running before a light breeze with the 
 sea as smooth and placid as a mill-pond. At me- 
 ridian we were off the Island of Juan Fernandez, 
 once the abode of " poor old Robinson Crusoe." 
 
 This morning the Captain reprimanded the steer- 
 age cook for using too much salt pork in a lob- 
 scouse he was preparing for breakfast. From this 
 time forward, the steerage passengers will insist on 
 having their allowance of meat weighed out daily. 
 This afternoon the weekly allowance of tea, sugar, 
 butter, cheese, molasses and vinegar was served out 
 by the mate for the use of the steerage passengers. 
 Distance sailed, 91 miles. Lat. 33° 31'. Therm. 
 at M. 64°. 
 
 Wednesday, Hay 30. — During last night and to- 
 day the wind has been ahead, consequently we have 
 made very little progress. We hope soon to fall in 
 with the south-east "trades," which will waft us 
 to the equator in a short time. The weather 
 is daily becoming milder, which has brought the 
 passengers on deck attired in their summer costumes. 
 Flannel shirts and other woolen clothing have been 
 stowed snugly away for future use. 
 
 Yesterday the after-cabin gamblers, not having 
 11 
 
176 faeo-bank; buested. 
 
 the fear of Captain Fairfowl's mandate before tlieir 
 eyes, commenced operations again. The game dur- 
 ing the day was " heno," not before played on board. 
 The game being new, the green ones bet heavily 
 with the never-failing result — the more they put 
 down the less they took up ! Distance sailed, 94 
 miles. Lat. 32° 01'. Therm, at M. 65°. 
 
 Thursday, May 31. — Have been becalmed all 
 day with the sails flapping lazily against the masts. 
 We were not looking for a dead calm in this lati- 
 tude; but during our pilgrimage in this world of 
 woe, we must take things as they come and thank 
 God they are no worse. 
 
 Steerage mess No. 1 furnished the cook with 
 apples for dumplings which were served at dinner, 
 but they were very unsavory in consequence of 
 of having been boiled in salt water. 
 
 The blacklegs have been busily at work again 
 to-day. Toward night they came to grief. One 
 of the boys won $300, which bursted the bank! 
 At sundown this evening, a passenger reported from 
 the maintop-sail yard a sail on our lee-bow, distant 
 about 20 miles. Distance sailed, 41 miles. Lat. 31° 
 13'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Friday, June 1. — The calm still continues, and 
 during last night and to-day the brig has not made 
 10 miles on her course. The weather has been 
 pleasant and the sea smooth. I have been pe- 
 rusing a file of Boston papers brought on board 
 by our first mate. They contain several letters 
 written by the passengers of the steamer Orescent 
 City on her first trip to Chagres. The letters were 
 
DELIGHTFUL WEATHEE. 177 
 
 written at Cruces, Gorgona and Panama, and the 
 writers all state that the climate is unhealthy, 
 provisions scarce and sickness very prevalent — 
 three cases of Asiatic cholera having occurred at 
 Cruces. They regret having taken the Isthmus 
 route, and recommend their friends who are about 
 to start for California to go by the way of Cape 
 Horn. My opinion is, that those who go by the 
 way of Cape Horn will wish they had taken the 
 Isthmus route! Distance sailed, 24 miles. Lat. 
 37° 07'. Therm, at M. 64°. 
 
 Saturday, June 2. — We are still in the " horse 
 latitudes," and the wind has been blowing a " Pad- 
 dy's hurricane" during the past twenty-four hours. 
 This is the first month of winter in this latitude, 
 and the weather is as mild and balmy as midsum- 
 mer in the United States. As we approach our 
 port of destination, fire-arms and mining implements 
 increase rapidly in value. Twenty-five dollars has 
 been offered and refused for revolvers that cost f 10 
 in Philadelphia. A gold-washer that cost $6 was 
 sold to-day for $15, and I refused an offer of f 3 
 for a hand-pick that cost me only fifty cents. I am 
 waiting for an advance in the market before I 
 unload. At meridian the sun was obscured by 
 clouds, therefore no observation was taken. I 
 imagine, however, that we are in the neighborhood 
 of 30° south latitude. Distance sailed, by log, 23 
 miles. Therm, at M. 64°. 
 
 Sunday, June 3. — Head-wind and very little of 
 that. Our expectations of reaching the equator in 
 fifteen days from Talcahuana have already van- 
 
178 MAKING HASTE SLOWLY. 
 
 ished like a dream. One week lias elapsed since 
 we left tliat port and we liave made scarcely one- 
 third of the distance. When the Osceola sailed 
 from Philadelphia, we expected to reach San Fran- 
 cisco in five months at the farthest. That time has 
 nearly expired, and we are still nearly 6,000 miles 
 from the land of promise. It is now a fixed fact 
 that our voyage will not be completed in less time 
 than six months, with the chances in favor of its 
 being prolonged beyond that time. Yerily, the way 
 of the California-bound passenger is hard. Distance 
 sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 29° 46'. Therm, at M. 65°. 
 
 Monday, June 4. — Early last evening the wind 
 died away, and during the remainder of the night 
 and this forenoon we have been becalmed. At one 
 o'clock this afternoon a fresh breeze sprang up from 
 the south, which wafted us along at the rate of seven 
 knots an hour until sundown, when we were again 
 becalmed. The brig is rolling lazily; the sails are 
 flapping against the masts and rigging, and the 
 yards and booms are creaking and moaning fear- 
 fully. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 28° 41'. 
 Therm, at M. 70°. 
 
 Tuesday, June 5. — The wind has been very light 
 during the past twenty-four hours, barely sufficient 
 to keep steerage-way on the brig. This forenoon 
 I tried my hand at washing soiled unmentionables, 
 socks and towels, and succeeded beyond my most 
 sanguine expectations. I was less fortunate in the 
 drying process, there being no clothes-line on which 
 to hang my "wash." 
 
 A convoy of Cape pigeons has followed the brig 
 
A GBAND SCENE. 179 
 
 from Staten Land, but the hot weather of the past 
 few days is rapidly decreasing their number and 
 driving them back to the icy region of Cape Horn. 
 
 This afternoon the cabin passengers have amused 
 themselves by playing monte and faro, and the steer- 
 age passengers have killed time by firing their rifles 
 and pistols at porter and wine bottles suspended from 
 the yards. Distance sailed, 55 miles. Lat. 27° 51'. 
 Therm, at M. 70°. 
 
 Wednesday, June 6. — The weather to-day has 
 been delightful, but the calm continues, and we are 
 not happy. This morning I witnessed one of the 
 grandest scenes of my life, and one that I shall 
 probably never again behold. I beheld at the same 
 moment the god of day lift his golden head above 
 the waves of the ocean to resume his diurnal course, 
 and the goddess of night, after having performed 
 her wonted task, sink into the embrace of the great 
 deep. It was a scene of great sublimity, and every 
 soul on board gazed upon it with feelings of reverence 
 mingled with admiration. During the forenoon the 
 stern-boat was lowered and manned by the passen- 
 gers for the purpose of towing the brig. A line was 
 made fast to the bowsprit and attached to the stern 
 of the boat, and the boatmen plied their oars merrily 
 for a couple of hours, but the brig moved so slowly 
 that they became disheartened, and, casting off" the 
 line, gave three hearty cheers, and started on a 
 private pleasure excursion. In about two hours they 
 returned and the boat was soon filled with another 
 party, who started on an exploring expedition to 
 the windward. In about an hour they returned 
 
180 PASSENGERS HAVE A JOLLIFICATION. 
 
 and informed us that during their voyage of dis- 
 covery they had fallen in with the carcass of a sperm- 
 whale, surrounded by myriads of boobies, gulls and 
 Cape pigeons. The odors inhaled from his whale- 
 ship as he floated past us were not as pleasant and 
 odoriferous as those wafted from "Ceylon's Isle." 
 The carcass was escorted by a body-guard of sharks, 
 and a retinue of sea-birds screaming like devils in- 
 carnate. Distance sailed, 49 miles. Lat. 27° 13'. 
 Therm, at M. 69°. 
 
 Thursday, June 7. — Last night, at eight o'clock, 
 a light but fair breeze sprang up from the south, 
 which we have carried all day with studding-sails 
 set below and aloft. 
 
 Last evening the passengers mustered on the 
 quarter-deck for the purpose of having a dance. 
 The " El Dorado Band " played a variety of lively 
 airs, which were accompanied by the " light fan- 
 tastic toes " of a majority of the passengers. At 
 nine o'clock, P. M., Captain Fairfowl spread a col- 
 lation in the after-cabin, to which all hands were 
 invited. Distance sailed, 82 miles. Lat. 26° 03'. 
 Therm, at M. 64°. 
 
 Friday, June 8. — During last night and to-day 
 we have been favored with a fair wind, and the 
 brig at this time, six o'clock, P. M., is making five 
 knots an hour. 
 
 The weather has been cloudy all day, with 
 strong indications of rain. Last night the steerage 
 cook was ordered by the Captain to keep watch, 
 which so exasperated him that he did not turn out 
 this morning at the usual hour to commence his 
 
SET-TO BETWEEM" CAPTAIN AND COOK. 181 
 
 culinary duties. The old skipper called him aft 
 and asked him why he had not kindled a fire in 
 the galley, as usual. He informed the Captain 
 that he would not perform the duties of both cook 
 and sailor — he shipped as cook, and would perform 
 that duty only. He was ordered by the Captain to 
 go forward and commence operations in the galley 
 at once, but being rather dilatory in his movements, 
 the old skipper seized a rope and commenced plying 
 it briskly over his back and shoulders, at the same 
 time ordering him to go forward, which command 
 he obeyed very reluctantly. In a few moments he 
 was again called aft by the Captain, who ordered 
 the mate to seize him up in the main rigging for 
 punishment. The cook informed the Captain that 
 he was not on hoard a man-of-war, and would not 
 submit to a flogging. The old skipper did not wait 
 upon the order of going, but went for the knight of 
 pots and kettles immediately, and for a few mo- 
 ments there was a lively time on board the Osceola, 
 with the following result : Captain knocked down 
 and the cook placed in irons. At eleven o'clock, 
 A. M., the Captain relented — hunger will tame a 
 crow — released the cook and ordered him to re- 
 sume his duty, and in future to behave himself like 
 a man. The cook nodded assent, and wUl not 
 knock the old skipper down again until he makes 
 another attempt to flog him ! Distance sailed 94 
 miles. Lat. 24° 01'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Saturday, June 9. — Throughout last night and 
 to-day the brig has been skimming over the water 
 
182 EQUAL DISTEIBUTION OP SUGAK. 
 
 at the rate of eight knots an hour, with square 
 yards and all studding-sails set. 
 
 Our prospects of reaching California by the 20th 
 of next month are now very promising. If we are 
 not becalmed on the "line," we shall make an 
 average run between Talcahuana and San Fran- 
 cisco. The weather to-day has been damp, with 
 an occasional sprinkling of rain. We are now in 
 the tropics, having crossed Capricorn this forenoon. 
 This afternoon all the sugar on board the brig was 
 taken aft and served out in equal portions to each 
 individual on board. Each person received five 
 and a half pounds — six weeks' allowance, accord- 
 ing to the United States Naval ration. Since we 
 left Talcahuana the cabin passengers have been 
 using the sugar rather extravagantly, which caused 
 the Captain to divide it pro rata to-day. Distance 
 sailed, 90 miles. Lat. 23° 16'. Therm, at M. 65°. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Sunday at sea — Light and baffling winds — Man-of-war birds 
 shot — Fresh pork — Canchalagua pills — ^Passengers on their 
 muscle — Crossing the equator — Old Neptune initiates one 
 of the sailors — Bed-bugs and fleas — Our old skipper under 
 the weather — Fourth of July at sea — Jolly time and no 
 whisky— Ship ahoy ! — Visit from the passengers of the ship 
 Pacific — ^We treat them to salt pork and hard-tack — Later 
 news from the land of gold — Captain Fairfowl has the 
 dumps. 
 
 Sunday, June 10. — During the last twenty-four 
 hours we have been gliding along over a smooth 
 sea, at the rate of nine knots an hour. A Scotch 
 mist has been falling at intervals throughout the 
 night and to-day. 
 
 The day has passed away very quietly — some- 
 thing unusual for Sunday. The sailors rigged 
 themselves out in their Sunday toggery, and most 
 of the passengers turned over a new leaf by putting 
 on a " biled " shirt. At dinner, the steerage pas- 
 sengers were treated by the cabin steward to mince- 
 pies for dessert, and I will do the old darkey the 
 justice to say they did him great credit. No ob- 
 servation. Distance sailed, by log, 168 miles. 
 Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Monday, June 11. — ^A ten-knot breeze during 
 the past twenty-four hours has rendered all hands 
 
 (183) 
 
184 THE "tkades" disappoint us. 
 
 happy. The "trades" were light at first, but they 
 have gradually increased to a ten-knot breeze, and 
 should they continue ten days, we shall be north of 
 the equator. The weather has been warm and hazy, 
 reminding me of Indian Summer in Pennsylvania. 
 This afternoon all the cheese on board the brig was 
 served out in equal portions to the passengers, each 
 receiving about two weeks' allowance. Distance 
 sailed, 161 miles. Lat. 19° 59'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Tuesday, June 12. — Last night we made an un- 
 usually good run, but to-day the wind has been 
 light and baffling. Strong indications of another 
 calm are visible. This forenoon the members of the 
 " Perseverance Mining Company" commenced work 
 on a sail for their batteaux, which will save them 
 many a tug at the oar. 
 
 At one o'clock this afternoon, one of the passen- 
 gers in the maintop reported a sail on our weather- 
 bow, distant about 15 miles. The stranger is head- 
 ing the same direction we are, and is most likely a 
 California passenger vessel. Distance sailed, 150 
 miles. Lat. 19° 05'. Therm, at M. 70°. 
 
 Wednesday, June 13. — All last night the wind 
 was light and baffling, and before daylight the brig 
 completely " boxed the compass." At eight o'clock, 
 A. M., a light breeze sprang up from the south-west, 
 which we have carried the balance of the day, but 
 have made very little progress. For some unex- 
 plained cause, the south-east "trades" have left us 
 in the lurch, which is a great disappointment. 
 We expected they would waft us to the equator. 
 Two vessels heading north have been in sight all 
 
FAVOEABLE WINDS. 185 
 
 day. Distance sailed, 40 miles. Lat. 18° 44'. 
 Therm, at M. 70°. 
 
 Thursday, June 14. — Last night the wind con- 
 tinued light and baffling, and early this morning it 
 died away to a dead calm. At nine o'clock, A. M., 
 a rain-squall suddenly sprang up from the south- 
 west, and we have carried a five-knot breeze during 
 the remainder of the day. The weather has been 
 hazy and showery. One of the sailors who had the 
 wheel during the morning watch, thinking that the 
 time passed away rather slowly, removed the watch 
 from the binnacle and undertook to move the hands 
 ahead, but being more accustomed to handling a 
 marline-spike than a timepiece, he broke both 
 hands. The watch was a gold lever belonging to 
 one of the passengers, who read jack-tar a lecture 
 in very forcible language. Distance sailed, 70 
 miles. Lat. 17° 38'. Therm, at M. 69°. 
 
 Friday, June 15. — Fair wind and plenty of it 
 during last night and to-day. The brig has been 
 flying over the water before a ten-knot breeze. 
 The yards are square and every drawing sail set — 
 a sight that a sailor's eye delights to dwell upon, 
 and one that is not unpleasing to a landsman after 
 having been five months at sea. The weather has 
 been mild and pleasant. Distance sailed, 170 miles. 
 Lat. 16° 03'. Therm, at M. 70°. 
 • Saturday, June 16. — The continued fair wind 
 has sent the Osceola jumping through the water 
 at the rate of ten knots an hour. If we are fortu- 
 nate enough to escape a calm on the equator, and 
 are blessed with this wind for thirty consecutive 
 
186 PKOFESsiosrs at a discount. 
 
 days we shall be at anchor in the harbor of San 
 Francisco. 
 
 The passengers are now organizing companies in 
 order to be ready for action immediately upon their 
 arrival in California. There are several professional 
 gentlemen on board who, when they left Philadel- 
 phia, informed their friends that they were going 
 to California to practice their professions ; but they, 
 too, have recently joined mining companies, believ- 
 ing that they can put more money in their purses 
 by handling the spade and pick, than by perusing 
 musty law books or serving out potions of jalap, 
 calomel and quinine. Several "man-of-war" birds 
 were shot this afternoon by one of the cabin pas- 
 sengers. Distance sailed, 191 miles. Lat. 14° 52'. 
 Therm, at M. 74°. 
 
 Sunday, June 17. — We are still blessed with a 
 fair wind and delightful weather, and are gliding 
 rapidly along toward the land of promise. 
 
 This morning the Captain expressed his intention 
 of crossing the equator between 112° and 115° west 
 longitude. Should we cross the line as far west as 
 115° we shall not be to the northward of it before 
 this day week. This has been one of the most quiet 
 Sabbaths passed on board the Osceola since she left 
 Philadelphia. During the first four months of the 
 voyage a growl on Sunday between the Captain and 
 passengers or crew was looked for regularly, and. I 
 regret to state that we were seldom disappointed. 
 Captain Fairfowl is one of those old sea-dogs who 
 cannot survive without an occasional growl. Dis- 
 
SEWIN& AND WASHING. 187 
 
 tance sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 13° 36'. Therm, at 
 M. 74°. 
 
 Monday, June 18. — We have carried an eight- 
 knot breeze throughout last night and to-day, and 
 the weather has been delightfully pleasant. All 
 hands, including the cook, are in good humor. 
 Now that we are on the last quarter of our voyage, 
 the passengers are busily engaged overhauling their 
 tents and mining utensils. One of our mining 
 companies has been employed during the past two 
 days making a tent of material purchased at Rio de 
 Janeiro. Not being accustomed to the use of the 
 palm and needle, they have made but very little 
 progress. Distance sailed, 164 miles. Lat. 12° 01'. 
 Therm, at M. 76°. 
 
 Tuesday, June 19. — A favorable wind during the 
 past twenty-four hours has wafted us along at the 
 rate of nine knots an hour. The weather is gradu- 
 ally becoming warmer — this being the hottest day 
 experienced since we doubled Cape Horn. We 
 shall in all probability soon have occasion to use 
 the awnings and wind-sails, as the weather must 
 necessarily be hot at this season of the year north 
 of the equator. 
 
 This afternoon the Captain opened his heart and 
 ordered a hog killed, a portion of which will be 
 made into a sea-pie to-morrow for the steerage pas- 
 sengers. Distance sailed, 161 miles. Lat. 10° 21'. 
 Therm, at M. 77°. 
 
 Wednesday, June 20. — The wind continues fair, 
 but is gradually growing lighter as we approach the 
 equator. This has been general washday with the 
 
188 SLEEPING ON DECK. 
 
 passengers. Lines stretched across the deck are 
 loaded with wet clothes, as also are the stays, rig- 
 ging and spanker-boom. Salt-water soap is just 
 now in great demand among the washermen — some 
 exchanging shaving soap of a superior quality for 
 the same bulk or weight of salt-water soap. One 
 of the passengers, not being overstocked with dis- 
 cretion, offered to sell his traveling-bag for two bars 
 of salt-water soap, but he did not find a purchaser. 
 
 I have been engaged to-day making a knapsack, 
 which will no doubt be of great service to me in 
 the gold diggings. Distance sailed, 160 miles. 
 Lat. 8° 52'. Therm, at M. 79°. 
 
 Thursday, June 21. — During last night and to- 
 day the " trades " have wafted us along at the rate 
 of eight knots an hour. We have carried the trade- 
 winds for the last fifteen days, and hope to hold 
 them until we pass the equator. The sky has been 
 cloudless and the weather hot, but not oppressive. 
 
 Last night several of the passengers "took up 
 their beds and walked " on deck, where they slept 
 until morning, undisturbed by bugs or fleas. This 
 morning I treated myself to a dose of Captain Fair- 
 fowl's famous Canchalagua pills, but what effect 
 they will have remains to be seen. The Captain 
 believes them to be a sovereign balm for all the ills 
 that flesh is heir to. Distance sailed, 172 miles. 
 Lat. 7° 28'. Therm, at M. 80°. 
 
 Friday, June 22. — The wind throughout last 
 night and to-day has been very light, and I fear 
 that we shall be becalmed before we reach the 
 equator. The weather has been hot and sultry. 
 
HOT WEATHER AND HOT TEMPEE. 189 
 
 witii strong indications of rain. This forenoon I 
 did my week's "washing, and this afternoon have 
 been engaged mending my old clothes. At the 
 commencement of the voyage I handled the needle 
 very awkwardly, but practice and perseverance 
 have enabled me to use it quite satisfactorily. Dis- 
 tance sailed, 152 miles. Lat. 6° 52'. Therm, at 
 M. 81°. 
 
 Saturday, June 23. — For the last twenty-four 
 hours the wind has been fair but light, yet, with 
 the aid of all drawing sails, we have made a very 
 fair run. The weather has been cloudy all day. 
 This evening a shower of rain fell, which has 
 cooled the atmosphere considerably, and rendered 
 the early part of the night unusually pleasant. 
 Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 4° 38'. Therm, 
 at M. 86°. Hot as blazes ! 
 
 Sunday, June 24l. — Throughout last night and 
 to-day we have been skimming over the water 
 before a seven-knot breeze, with studding-sails set 
 below and aloft. The atmosphere has been rather 
 cooler, which has rendered the day very pleasant. 
 We have passed several schools of flying-fish, but 
 none have been caught. 
 
 Now that the weather is growing warmer, the 
 passengers are becoming as rabid as mad dogs. At 
 breakfast, this morning, three altercations occurred 
 — two in the after-cabin and one in the steerage. 
 The steerage row commenced first, and passed off 
 without any blows being struck. The first quarrel 
 in the cabin resulted similarly ; but in the second 
 melee a rough-and-tumble fight ensued, in which 
 
190 ACKOSS THE EQUATOE. 
 
 a little bad blood was spilled. Distance sailed, 135 
 miles. Lat. 3° 02'. Therm, at M. 81°. 
 
 Monday, June 25. — The "trades" still continue, 
 and all last night and to-day we have been plough- 
 ing through the water at the rate of seven knots an 
 hour. The sky has been cloudless and the weather 
 pleasant. We are now near the equator, and hope 
 to cross it before daylight to-morrow morning. We 
 are half-way between Talcahuana and San Fran- 
 cisco, with the prospect of reaching the latter place 
 within twenty-five days. 
 
 I have been on board the Osceola so long that 
 every plank in her deck looks like an old acquaint- 
 ance ; yet, as familiar as they appear, I am ex- 
 tremely anxious to bid them farewell forever. 
 Distance sailed, 150 miles. Lat. 0° 59'. Therm, 
 at M. 82°. 
 
 Tuesday, June 26. — We carried a seven-knot 
 breeze throughout last night and to-day, which 
 has placed us 160 miles nearer our port of desti- 
 nation. The weather during the day has been 
 delightful. We crossed the equator at one o'clock 
 this morning, in longitude 115° 40' west. 
 
 When we crossed the dominions of Neptune, the 
 old salt visited us, and initiated one of the crew. 
 The passengers refused to submit to the operation. 
 The soap used by Neptune on this occasion was 
 highly perfumed with a compound of " villainous 
 smells," and his razor was as dull as a lecture on 
 woman's rights. Distance sailed, 152 miles. Lat. 
 1° 06' north. Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Wednesday, June 27. — All last night and to-day 
 
■UNWELCOME PASSENGERS. 191 
 
 the wind has been Hght and baffling, but the weather 
 continues pleasant. We expected to meet with 
 frequent showers on the equator, but thus far have 
 been happily disappointed. During the day the 
 passengers have been lounging about the deck in the 
 shade of the sails endeavoring to keep cool. A few 
 days since one of the steerage passengers resolved 
 to dispense with the use of tobacco henceforth and 
 forever, and this morning he disposed of his stock 
 of pipes and tobacco at a raffle. Distance sailed,, 
 139 miles. Lat. 3° 12'. Therm, at M. 83°. 
 
 Thursday, June 28. — Last night the wind hauled 
 around to the southward and westward, and since 
 that time we have been skimming along at the 
 rate of seven knots an hour. The heat was very 
 oppressive, but to-day we have been fanned by a 
 delightful breeze, which has in a slight degree 
 counteracted the effects of the heat. Since we left 
 Talcahuana every berth in the brig has been over- 
 run with bed-bugs and fleas, and the past two weeks 
 our sufferings have been intolerable. To-day several 
 of the passengers have been figuring out the date of 
 our arrival in San Francisco. According to their 
 ciphering we shall arrive there on the fifteenth of 
 next month — if figures don't lie. Distance sailed, 
 162 miles. Lat. 5° 26'. Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Friday, June 29. — The wind has been blowing 
 steadily from the south-west all day, and we have 
 encountered several squalls accompanied by rain, 
 thunder and lightning. The wind has blown so 
 fresh this afternoon that the Captain has taken in 
 the studding-sails, furled the mainroyal and reefed 
 
 12 
 
192 EOTJGH WEATHER AND HEAD-WINDS. 
 
 the foretop-gallant-sail. This is the first squally 
 weather we have encountered the past two weeks, 
 and it has somewhat surprised us, as we did 
 not count on meeting rough weather during the 
 balance of the passage, but we know not what the 
 morrow may bring forth, particularly in these lati- 
 tudes. This afternoon in working the brig one of 
 the sailors through mistake let go the wrong hal- 
 yard, which caused the old skipper to go for him 
 with a rope's end, and afterward to jDut him in irons. 
 We are now in the latitude of Panama. Distance 
 sailed, 179 miles. Lat. 8° 18'. Therm, at M. 79°. 
 
 Saturday, June 30. — Last night the wind hauled 
 around to the northward, and to-day it has been 
 light and baffling. Squalls, accompanied by rain, 
 have been frequent during the day. 
 
 I fear the next settled wind will prevent us from 
 heading our course. If so, we must be content, 
 for it is an ill wind that blows no one good. To- 
 day considerable rain-water has been caught by the 
 passengers, whicli will prove quite a god-send, for 
 to-morrow is washday. Captain Fairfowl has been 
 quite unwell all day, and has remained in his berth 
 most of the time. There is a rumor floating about 
 the brig that he has been sampling drugged wine 
 again. We are off Guatemala. The sun being ob- 
 scured, no observation was taken. Distance sailed, 
 by log, 130 miles. Therm, at M. 78°. 
 
 Sunday, July 1. — Our good luck is failing us. 
 During last night and to-day the wind has been 
 unfavorable, which has headed us off" our course 
 five or six points. The weather has been clear, and 
 
TUEKEYS FOK THE FOTTKTH, 193 
 
 the wind bracing and invigorating. The morning 
 and forenoon passed off quietly, but this afternoon 
 the Captain cursed the cabin passengers for insinu- 
 ating that he had sampled the brandy in the doctor's 
 medicine-chest. Liquor is getting scarce and the 
 Captain is convalescing rapidly. In consequence 
 of the indisposition of the old skipper no observa- 
 tion was taken, but I presume that we are in the 
 neighborhood of 13° north latitude. Distance 
 sailed, as per log, 137 miles. Therm, at M. 81°. 
 
 Monday, July 2. — Last night the wind was light 
 and baffling, and to-day we have been becalmed. 
 The weather has been hot and oppressive. The 
 next wind that crosses our track will probably be 
 the north-east "trades," the prevailing wind in 
 these latitudes, and the sooner we meet with them 
 the better ; for, of all things on earth or ocean, a 
 calm in the tropics is the most annoying. 
 
 The old skipper is on his pins again, and to-day 
 resumed his accustomed duty. One of his first acts 
 was to release the sailor confined in irons on the 
 29th ult. Distance sailed, 97 miles. Lat. 13° 18'. 
 Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Tuesday, July 3. — During last night and to-day 
 the ocean has been as smooth as a mirror, and the 
 weather hot and sultry. 
 
 Captain Fairfowl opened his heart this afternoon 
 and presented to the steerage messes three turkeys, 
 which will be served up for dinner to-morrow — the 
 glorious Fourth! Distance sailed, 16 miles. No 
 observation. Therm, at M. 83°. 
 
 Wednesday, July 4. — Fourth of July and a dead 
 
194 FOUETH OF JULY AT SEA. 
 
 calm in the tropics, with the thermometer at 83° in 
 the shade ! This day being the seventy-third anni- 
 versary of American independence, all hands con- 
 cluded to celebrate the event in a becoming manner. 
 Accordingly, at daylight, the ensign, union-jack 
 and pennant were spread to the breeze, a salute of 
 small arms fired, and at ten o'clock, A. M., a meet- 
 ing was organized, Dr. George Guier, Jr., presiding, 
 supported by six vice-presidents, myself being one 
 of the number. A secretary was appointed, and a 
 committee selected to prepare the regular toasts for 
 the occasion. After the reading of the Declaration 
 of Independence, by Col. James A. Banks, another 
 salute was fired, and the meeting adjourned until 
 three o'clock, P. M. 
 
 Having partaken of the best dinner the Osceola 
 could spread, we met at the appointed hour to 
 conclude the festivities of the day. Thirteen 
 regular toasts appropriate to the occasion were read 
 by the president, which were loudly cheered by the 
 assemblage. The intervals between the toasts were 
 enlivened by appropriate music by the El Dorado 
 band and several patriotic songs by the " O Susan- 
 nah Serenaders." The regular sentiments were 
 succeeded by some fifty volunteer toasts, many of 
 which were rich, rare and racy, and called down 
 thunders of applause. 
 
 The regular and volunteer toasts having been 
 read, Colonel Banks, in compliance with a request 
 from the president, delivered an eloquent address, 
 creditable alike to his head and heart. The colonel 
 was followed by two other passengers, one of whom 
 
FLEEING FEOM FLEAS. 195 
 
 recited an Ode to the American Flag, and the other 
 attempted to make a speech hut, poor fellow, he got 
 stuck ! and in order to relieve him from his awkward 
 predicament, a friend moved an adjournment sine 
 die, which was unanimously carried. 
 
 At sundown, when the colors were hauled down, 
 another salute was fired and three hearty cheers 
 given, which aroused the fishes and caused old Nep- 
 tune to send back the echo ; and thus ended the 4th 
 of July, 1849, at sea! Everything passed ofi" 
 quietly and soberly. There was no liquor on board ! 
 Distance sailed, 20 miles. Lat. 13° 41'. Therm, 
 at M. 83°. 
 
 Thursday, July 5. — The calm continued last 
 night, but this forenoon a light breeze sprang up 
 from the north-west, and although dead ahead, was 
 hailed with joy by all hands on board, as a breeze 
 from any quarter is preferable to a calm. Last 
 night I was so terribly annoyed by that lively and 
 ubiquitous little "animile," the flea, that I was 
 compelled to vacate my bunk and go on deck. The 
 rays of a tropical sun have been concentrated all 
 day on my mattress and blankets, and I have also 
 given the latter a salt-water douche. I hope that 
 the sun and salt-water combined have given the 
 fleas their eternal quietus. 
 
 This forenoon, a ship, supposed to be a homeward- 
 bound whaler, was reported on our lee-bow, distant 
 about 15 miles. This is the first vessel reported 
 during four weeks. For reasons best known to 
 the Captain no observation was taken to-day. 
 Distance sailed, per log, 9 miles. Therm, at M. 81°. 
 
196 THE SHIP PACIFIC. 
 
 Friday, July 6. — During last night and to-day 
 there has not been sufficient wind to fill the sails, 
 consequently they have been flapping listlessly 
 against the masts and rigging. The sky has been 
 unclouded and the weather oppressive. 
 
 Early this morning we discovered on our lee- 
 quarter a full-rigged ship, distant about 15 miles. 
 About two o'clock, P. M., a small sail, in the direc- 
 tion of the stranger, was seen approaching us, and 
 when distant about 4 miles, our stern-boat was 
 lowered and manned by passengers, who pulled 
 merrily away toward the boat, which could now be 
 distinctly made out without the aid of a glass. In 
 about forty minutes our boat returned, accompanied 
 by the metallic life-boat Crusoe, belonging to and 
 manned by seven of the passengers of the California 
 passenger ship Pacific, which sailed from New York 
 on the 23d of January last. We left the Pacific 
 in E.io de Janeiro, whence she sailed on the 3d of 
 April, touching at Callao for water and provisions, 
 sailing thence on the 8th of June. 
 
 A.t the latter place intelligence from California 
 down to the 1st of May had been received, which 
 confirmed all previous reports in regard to the 
 richness of the gold mines in that country. 
 
 Our guests partook of a collation of salt pork 
 and hard-tack, lubricated with a little brandy from 
 the doctor's medicine-chest, and at five o'clock, 
 P. M., bade us adieu, and entering their boat, 
 were soon gliding over the water toward their 
 vessel, which was now distant about 10 miles. 
 "When our friends shoved ofi" three hearty cheers 
 
THE GOLD FEVEK KEVIVED. 197 
 
 were given by us, which were returned with a will. 
 At sundown our visitors were within a mile of their 
 ship, which they probably reached before dark. 
 They are a jolly, whole-souled set of fellows, and 
 deserve success. Distance sailed, 12 miles. Lat. 
 14° 06'. Therm, at M. 82°. 
 
 Saturday, July 7. — Some time during last night 
 a breeze sprang up from the north, which we have 
 carried throughout the day. We have been look- 
 ing for the north-east "trades" during the past 
 eight days, but have not yet found them. " Hope 
 deferred maketh the heart sick." Either a head- 
 wind or a dead-calm has been the order of the day 
 the past week, and how long this will continue 
 remains to be seen. 
 
 The news received from California by the visitors 
 from the Pacijio has renewed the gold fever, 
 and all hands on board are more or less affected 
 by it. One of the sailors went aloft this morning 
 and scanned the horizon with a glass, but not a 
 solitary sail could be seen. Distance sailed, 47 
 miles. Lat. 13° 55'. Therm, at M. 80°. 
 
 Sunday, _ July 8. — Last night the wind com- 
 menced hauling to the westward, and during the 
 day we have been heading the course laid down 
 by the Captain, and running before a strong south- 
 west wind at the rate of six knots an hour. A 
 strong head-sea has been running during the day, 
 which has somewhat impeded our progress. 
 
 We are now about 1,300 miles distant from the 
 Golden Grate, with a fair wind that would waft us 
 there in eight days, if the brig were allowed to 
 
198 THE captain's obstinacy. 
 
 head the proper coiirse ; but our Captain is afflicted 
 with the dumps, and is as obstinate as a mule. He 
 will steer any course in preference to the correct 
 one, which will probably prolong our voyage 
 another month. He informed one of the passen- 
 gers to-day that we would not reach San Francisco 
 before the 10th of August. A cold, drizzling rain 
 has been falling all day. Distance sailed, 100 
 miles. Lat. 15° 20'. Therm, at M. 78°. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Our last porker slaughtered — Cold weather in the tropics — 
 Off Lower California — The Captain predicts a fair wind — 
 Will wine vinegar inebriate ? — Provisions and water scarce — 
 Head-winds — First mate ordered below — Encounter a 
 squall — The cook and cabin steward have a free fight — Fog 
 and Scotch mist — Drift-wood — Brig ahoy ! — ^Visit from the 
 mate of the brig Spencer — Land ho ! — Farallone Islands — 
 Come to anchor outside the Golden Gate. 
 
 Monday, July 9. — The wind continued fair last 
 night, and throughout to-day we have been steering 
 north-west by west with all studding-sails set. The 
 wind is gradually hauling around to the eastward, 
 and I should not be surprised if we were to fall in 
 with the north-east "trades" within forty-eight 
 hours. The weather has been clear and pleasant, 
 and the passengers have spent most of the day on 
 deck. We are to-day off the coast of Mexico. 
 Distance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 17° 04'. Therm, 
 at M. 81°. 
 
 Tuesday, July 10. — Last night the wind hauled 
 around to the south-east, and during the day it has 
 changed to the north-east, from which quarter it is 
 still blowing quite fresh. We have been heading 
 north-west by west all day, and running at the rate 
 of eight knots an hour. 
 
 The weather up to three o'clock, P. M., has been 
 warm and pleasant, but from that time to the present 
 
 (199) 
 
200 OVERCOATS IN JULY IN THE TKOPICS. 
 
 writing, eight o'clock, P. M., the mercury in the 
 thermometer has fallen from 81° to 72°, and the 
 atmosphere is damp and chilly. 
 
 The last two nights a heavy dew has fallen, 
 which has thoroughly wet the deck and rigging. 
 Our last porker was slaughtered to-day ; therefore, 
 we may expect a good dinner to-morrow. 
 
 Our last pig is slaughtered 
 
 For to-morrow's sea-stew, 
 And we'll go for that porker 
 
 Like Yankees, true blue ! 
 
 Distance sailed, 139 miles. Lat. 19° 03'. Therm, 
 at M. 72°. 
 
 Wednesday, July 11. — Throughout last night and 
 to-day we have been wafted along by the north-east 
 "trades" at the rate of eight knots an hour; but 
 the brig is still heading north-west by west, although 
 we are two degrees to the westward of our port of 
 destination ! The weather is damp and chilly, re- 
 minding one more of fall in the United States than 
 midsummer in the tropics. The thermometer this 
 evening is down to 70°, and overcoats are in de- 
 mand among the passengers. The past two days 
 the members of the " Perseverance Mining Com- 
 pany" have been employed painting their boats, in 
 order to be in readiness for a start up the Sacra- 
 mento immediately uj)on their arrival in San Fran- 
 cisco. Distance sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 20° 50'. 
 Therm, at M. 78°. 
 
 Thursday, July 12. — We are still being driven 
 to the north-west by the "trades" at the rate of 
 
CKOSSING THE TEOPIC OF CANCEE. 201 
 
 seven knots an hour. The Captain regrets not 
 having steered a northerly course at the commence- 
 ment of this week, when he had the opportunity. 
 Should the present wind continue until we reach 
 the latitude of San Francisco, by steering our 
 present course we shall be some 1,200 miles to 
 the westward of that port. Although directly 
 under the sun, the atmosphere is quite chilly. We 
 are this evening off" Cape St. Lucas, the southern- 
 most point of Lower California. Yesterday we 
 exchanged colors with a Chilian ship bound to 
 the southward. Distance sailed, 148 miles. Lat, 
 22° 20'. Therm, at M. 70°. 
 
 Friday, July 13. — A head-wind to-day has pre- 
 vented us from steering within six points of our 
 course. There is a variation of the compass of 
 about one point in our favor, but this is nearly, if 
 not quite, overbalanced by the lee-way occasioned 
 by a strong head-sea that has been running the past 
 five days. The weather is so cold that the passen- 
 gers have dressed themselves cap-a-pie in their 
 Cape Horn clothes, in order to keep comfortable 
 when on deck. 
 
 The month of October in Philadelphia is more 
 mild and pleasant than have been the past five 
 days in the tropics. This forenoon we crossed the 
 Tropic of Cancer, and if we are permitted to steer 
 our course during the next six days, we shall at. the 
 expiration of that time be at anchor in the Bay of 
 San Francisco. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 
 23° 56'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Saturday, July 14. — The wind is still north-east, 
 
202 A QUIET SABBATH. 
 
 but is gradually getting lighter, and I hope will 
 soon die away or haul around to the westward. 
 The Captain predicts a fair wind within the next 
 forty-eight hours, but little faith can be placed in 
 his opinion, in consequence of his having so often 
 proven himself a false prophet. 
 
 The head- winds which have prevailed during the 
 past week have given all hands the blues, and they 
 move silently about the deck with elongated visages, 
 reminding one very much of a disconsolate widow 
 or a young married man with a strong-minded 
 mother-in-law. Distance sailed, 118 miles. Lat, 
 25° 25'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Sunday, July 15. — Last night the wind veered a 
 little to the northward, and to-day we have been 
 heading nearly a due west course. The wind has 
 been very light, and all on board are inclined to 
 the belief that it will haul around to the westward 
 very soon or die away entirely. The sun has been 
 obscured by clouds nearly all day, and the weather 
 has been chilly and unpleasant. 
 
 This Sabbath has passed off" very quietly, neither 
 a fight nor a growl having occurred — an unusual 
 circumstance. One of the passengers of the Irish 
 persuasion, however, not having the fear of Father 
 Mathew before his eyes, managed this evening to 
 get gloriously drunk on wine vinegar, but he is very 
 docile. This morning at sunrise the mercury in the 
 thermometer was down to 66°. Distance sailed, 
 126 miles. Lat. 26° 33'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Monday, July 16. — We are still wrestling with 
 an adverse wind, and the weather is damp and 
 
PROSPECT OP SHOET EATIONS. 203 
 
 chilly. We are now in longitude 130° west, and 
 the Captain says he will put the brig on another 
 tack to-morrow and run direct for the Golden Gate. 
 
 A box of clothing belonging to one of the pas- 
 sengers, stowed in the hold since we left Eio, was 
 opened to-day and its contents found to be very 
 much injured by mould and mildew. Distance 
 sailed, 88 miles. Lat. 27° 12'. Therm, at M. 69°. 
 
 Tuesday, July 17. — Last night the wind hauled 
 around to the northward and eastward, and since 
 that time we have been heading north-west, but in 
 consequence of being so close on the wind we have 
 made very little progress. The wind is dead ahead, 
 and so good-bye, San Francisco, until it changes. 
 The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all day, 
 and the weather continues chilly and disagreeable. 
 Provisions are getting scarce — some articles being 
 entirely exhausted. The hold was broken out to- 
 day for pork, but not a single barrel could be found. 
 The sugar and cheese are also among the things 
 that were but are not, and the water is nearly all 
 gone. The truth of the matter is, we are in one of 
 those predicaments sometimes narrated but not often 
 experienced. Distance sailed, 87 miles. Lat. 27° 
 43'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Wednesday, July 18. — Last night the wind hauled 
 back to the northward, and this forenoon it veered 
 still further around and resumed its old position in 
 the north-east. This afternoon we have been head- 
 ing north-west, but owing to a head-sea have made 
 very little progress. If the wind continues in the 
 north-east during the next eight days, we shall be 
 
204 MAKING THE BEIG- SHIP-SHAPE. 
 
 compelled to run as far westward as 140° before we 
 tack tlie brig and run for our port of destination. 
 
 The weather this forenoon was quite winterisb. 
 At meridian tie clouds tbat bave shrouded the sky 
 the past week broke away, and the sun shone 
 brightly for about two hours. The latter part of 
 the day has been squally, with occasional showers. 
 The crew has been employed to-day painting the 
 brig. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 28° 53'. 
 Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Thursday, July 19. — During last night and to- 
 day the wind has been blowing steadily from the 
 north-east, and we have been sailing as close- 
 hauled as possible. The weather has been cloudy, 
 damp and chilly, and all hands have the dumps. 
 How long we shall be knocked about by adverse 
 winds, is one of those things that no " feller " can 
 find out. At meridian San Francisco bore north- 
 east by north, distant 800 miles. The crew has 
 been reeving new signal-halyards, repairing the side- 
 ladders, and doing other odd jobs, in order to get the 
 brig " ship-shape " before reaching port. Distance 
 sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 30° 15'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Friday, July 20. — The north-east trades still 
 continue, which prevents us from heading higher 
 than north-west by north. We did not expect to 
 carry the trades farther north than latitude 28°, 
 but in this, as well as in many other things, we 
 have been sadly disappointed. I have now come 
 to the conclusion that we are booked for a passage 
 of two hundred days! 
 
 This morning Captain Fairfowl ordered his first 
 
FAVORABLE WIND FOE FIFTEEN MINUTES. 205 
 
 officer below. This is the fifth officer the old skip- 
 per has put off duty since we sailed from Phila- 
 delphia. Should he ever be fortunate enough to 
 obtain command of another vessel, I would advise 
 him to ship at least a gross of mates. He would 
 find use for all of them before the expiration of a 
 voyage of ninety days. Distance sailed, 100 miles. 
 Lat. 31° 38'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Saturday, July 21. — Last night the wind hauled 
 a point to the eastward, and to-day we have been 
 steering N. N. W. We shall probably be in the 
 latitude of San Francisco on "Wednesday next. 
 The Captain will then tack the brig and stand to 
 the eastward, wind permitting. 
 
 Last night the moon dispersed the clouds, and 
 to-day the atmosphere has been clear and the 
 weather cool. Three large sea-birds have followed 
 the brig for the past three weeks, and during that 
 time at least fifty shots have been fired at them by 
 the passengers without effect. They appear to bear 
 charmed lives. At all events, they are shot and 
 bullet-proof. Distance sailed, 108 miles. Lat. 33° 
 ir. Therm, at M. 67°. 
 
 Sunday, July 22. — All last night and up to six 
 o'clock, P. M., to-day, the wind has blown steadily 
 from the north-east, and the brig has been heading 
 a north-by-west course. At seven o'clock this 
 evening the wind hauled around to the south-east, 
 which has enabled us to lay our course for the 
 space of fifteen minutes, when it hauled back to its 
 old quarter in the north-east, where it still remains. 
 
 The sun has been, obscured by clouds nearly all 
 
206 HOPING FOE A FAIE, WIND. 
 
 day, wliicli has rendered the atmosphere chilly. 
 We are now in the same latitude as San Luis 
 Obispo, Upper California, and at meridian to- 
 morrow we shall probably be off Monterey. 
 
 Early this morning the Captain reported a vessel 
 on our weather-bow, distant about 15 miles, and in 
 two hours afterward it could not be seen. It was 
 probably a California-bound steamer. Distance 
 sailed, 122 miles. Lat. 35° 01'. Therm, at M. 67°. 
 
 Monday, July 23. — Last night the wind was light 
 and baffling, and to-day the face of the great deep 
 has been unrufiled by a breeze. We have lost the 
 north-east trades, and I hope the next wind we fall 
 in with will be a fair one, for things are getting 
 rather monotonous. The weather has been warmer 
 than on any previous day the past two weeks. I 
 availed myself of the sunshine, and washed and 
 dried sundry shirts and towels. Several turtles 
 have been seen floating on the surface of the water 
 at no great distance from the brig. As we shall 
 not run much farther to the northward, I will, 
 during the remainder of the voyage, record longi- 
 tude, as well as the latitude. Distance sailed, 72 
 miles. Lat. 36° ir ; long. 139° 02' west. Therm. 
 at M. 73°. 
 
 Tuesday, July 24. — Throughout last night and to- 
 day the wind has been light and baffling, and a part 
 of the time we have been becalmed. The entire day 
 has been a succession of variable breezes and calms. 
 This morning at eight o'clock the brig was put about 
 three times in about the time it requires to record 
 the fact, and on the last tack s|ie headed her course 
 
HOPES PAKTIALLY REALIZED. 207 
 
 twenty minutes. We find that we have only twenty- 
 five days' water on board, which causes things to 
 look rather squally. We are now on an allowance 
 of two quarts of water per day, which allows us 
 only one pint each for drinking, and if we do not 
 soon get a fair wind this quantity will be reduced 
 one-half. Distance sailed, 18 miles. Lat. 36° 29'; 
 long. 139° 08'. Therm, at M. 68°. 
 
 Wednesday, July 26. — The calm of yesterday con- 
 tinued throughout last night. Early this morning 
 the wind commenced hauling to the southward, and 
 at this time, eight o'clock, A. M., it is blowing from 
 the south-west. Although the wind has been light, 
 by the aid of studding-sails we have managed to 
 make about three knots an hour. Captain Fairfowl 
 is of the opinion that the present wind will waft us 
 into port. God grant that it may, for our water and 
 provisions are getting very scarce, and much suffer- 
 ing will occur should the voyage be prolonged an- 
 other month. Distance sailed, 42 miles. Lat. 37° 
 12'; long. 139° 10'. Therm, at M. 70°. 
 
 Thursday, July 26. — The wind increased grad- 
 ually last night, and up to four o'clock this after- 
 noon we have been heading our course at the 
 rate of six knots an hour with studding-sails set 
 below and aloft. This afternoon at five o'clock we 
 encountered a squall accompanied by rain, during 
 which the wind hauled around to the north, and is 
 blowing an eight-knot breeze from that quarter. 
 
 This forenoon the cabin cook and steward had a 
 rough-and-tumble fight about their relative positions, 
 in which both parties were severely pummeled. 
 
 13 
 
208 THREE PINTS OF WATER PEK DAY. 
 
 The cook gave the steward a whack on his cabasa 
 with the potato-masher, and the latter returned 
 the compliment with his fists so effectually that in a 
 few moments the cook's figure-head was sadly dis- 
 figured — it is doubtful whether his mother would 
 recognize him. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 37° 
 62'; long. 137° 67'. Therm, at M. 74°. 
 
 Friday, July 27. — All last night we headed our 
 course and ran at the rate of six knots an hour. 
 At ten o'clock this forenoon the wind hauled around 
 to the north-east which headed us off, and the Cap- 
 tain iDut the brig about and ran to the north-Avest 
 until three o'clock, P. M., when the wind hauled a 
 little more to the northward, and the brig was again 
 put about, but on this tack she could not lay within 
 two points of her course, in consequence of the vari- 
 ations of the compass and the lee-way, which were 
 both against her. The weather during the day has 
 been damp and chilly, the mercury in the ther- 
 mometer having fallen ten degrees within the past 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 Yesterday all hands were very much elated with 
 the prospect of reaching San Francisco in the course 
 of four or five days, but the sudden change in wind 
 and weather to-day has saddened their hearts, and 
 they look as crest-fallen as disappointed politicians. 
 We are on an allowance of three pints of water each. 
 Distance sailed, 142 miles. Lat. 37° 30'; long. 135° 
 30'. Therm, at M. 64°. 
 
 Saturday, July 28. — At midnight last night the 
 brig was put about, and she ran north-west by west 
 until ten o'clock this forenoon, when she was put on 
 
THIETEEN CASKS Or WATEK FOUND. 209 
 
 the other tack, and since that time has been heading 
 east by north, within one point of our course. The 
 wind is hauling slowly to the westward, and I am 
 inclined to the belief that we will be heading our 
 course before to-morrow morning. A fair wind 
 would carry us into our port of destination in three 
 days, but the wind in these latitudes is so fickle that 
 very little reliance can be placed upon it. This 
 afternoon a general search was made in the hold for 
 water, and, to our great joy, we find that there are 
 thirteen casks on board, being thirty days' allowance 
 at the rate of two quarts for each person. Distance 
 sailed, 87 miles. The sun was obscured at meridian, 
 consequently no observation was taken. Therm, 
 at M. 65°. 
 
 Sunday, July 29. — Early last night the wind 
 hauled to the north-west, and since that time we 
 have been running our course at the rate of six 
 knots an hour. A heavy head-sea has been run- 
 ning all day, which has somewhat retarded our pro- 
 gress. 
 
 The cold weather and rough sea causes reminis- 
 cences of Cape Horn to flit through the mind. 
 Owing to the favorable wind the Captain has added 
 a pint of water to our daily allowance. Cloudy 
 weather ; no observation. Distance sailed, per log, 
 86 miles. Therm, at M. 62°. 
 
 Monday, July 30. — During last night and to-day 
 we have been heading our course and jogging slowly 
 along at the rate of four knots an hour. 
 
 Were it not for the strong head-sea constantly 
 butting against the bow of the brig, our speed 
 
210 TOKENS OF LAND. 
 
 would be increased at least two knots an hour. We 
 are also close-hauled on the wind, which somewhat 
 retards our progress. 
 
 Our hearts were gladdened this forenoon by the 
 appearance of the sun for the first time in two days. 
 Toward the close of the afternoon the weather be- 
 came thick and foggy, and at this time, eight 
 o'clock, P. M., a Scotch mist is falling which will 
 probably turn into rain before morning. At 
 meridian to-day, San Francisco bore due east, dis- 
 tant 383 miles. Distance sailed, 87 miles. Lat. 
 37° 49' ; long. 130° 01'. Therm, at M. 62°. 
 
 Tuesday, July 31. — Throughout last night and 
 to-day the brig has been heading her course under 
 a seven-knot breeze. The wind has gradually in- 
 creased since noon, and at this time, seven o'clock, 
 P. M., it is blowing a gale. If the atmosphere 
 should be clear to-morrow we hope to sight land. • 
 
 The weather during the day has been foggy 
 and chilly — the thermometer at five o'clock this 
 morning being 58°. The past two days, large 
 quantities of drift-wood, sea-weed and kelp have 
 floated past us — strong indications that land is not 
 far distant. A great change in the color of the water 
 has also been apparent within the past thirty hours; 
 and this evening wild geese and a species of duck 
 that does not venture far from land, flew past us. 
 Distance sailed, 160 miles. Lat. 38° 30'; long. 
 127° 38'. Therm, at M. 59°. 
 
 Wednesday, August 1. — The wind blew so fresh 
 all night that the brig was hove to, and remained 
 in that position until daylight this morning, when 
 
LAND IN SIGHT. 211 
 
 she was put before tlie wind and made good head- 
 way until ten o'clock, A. M., when the wind died 
 entirely away. This afternoon the wind has been 
 light and baffling, and a heavy ground-swell has 
 kept the brig rolling about like a saw-log in a mill- 
 pond. 
 
 During the day we have been enveloped by a 
 dense fog which has prevented us from seeing half 
 a mile in any direction. The anchors were got 
 over the bow ready to be let go should occasion 
 require. Land-birds have been hovering about 
 the brig all day. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 
 38° 28'; long. 125° 08'. Therm, at M. 58°. 
 
 Thursday, Aug. 2. — Light and baffling winds, 
 a dense fog and damp and chilly weather all day. 
 At sundown the fog partially lifted, which enabled 
 us to get a glimpse of the "land of promise," 
 directly ahead and distant about 10 miles. Later 
 in the evening, the fog disappeared, and we could 
 define the bold outlines of the coast for many miles. 
 The Captain says we are some 15 miles to the north- 
 ward of the harbor of San Francisco, therefore we 
 shall lay oif and on during the night and run into 
 port to-morrow, wind permitting. Soon after 
 making the land we discovered a vessel close in 
 shore evidently bearing down toward us. When 
 distant about 3 miles, she lowered a boat, and in 
 three-quarters of an hour thereafter, we were 
 boarded by her first mate, accompanied by a cabin 
 passenger. The stranger proved to be the English 
 brig Spencer, from Sydney, New South Wales, 
 bound for San Francisco, with thirteen passengers 
 
212 PASSENGEKS TOWING THE BEIG. 
 
 and a cargo consisting principally of provisions, 
 spirits and clothing. The mate of the Spencer 
 boarded us for the purpose of ascertaining his 
 "whereabouts, which Captain Fairfowl defined to his 
 entire satisfaction. The Spencer had been becalmed 
 and befogged since Monday last on this " blarsted " 
 coast. Our Captain presented the mate, at parting, 
 with a copy of the New York Herald containing a 
 map of the harbor of San Francisco, which I hope 
 will prove more reliable than did one of the " Gold 
 Diggings " published in the same journal. No 
 observation to-day. Distance sailed, per log, 60 
 miles. Therm, at M. 60°. 
 
 Friday, Aug. 3. — During last night the wind was 
 very light, and to-day we have been in the midst of 
 light breezes and calms. 
 
 The Captain took an observation at noon and 
 found that we were 22 miles to the northward 
 of the port of San Francisco. This afternoon we 
 have been running slowly down the coast. Several 
 of the passengers are so anxious to get on shore that 
 they have been ahead in one of the boats nearly all 
 the afternoon towing the brig. 
 
 When we tacked the brig this forenoon and 
 stood down the coast, the brig Spencer followed us, 
 but before two o'clock, P. M., we lost sight of her. 
 The land was visible until eleven o'clock, A. M., 
 when the fog hid it from our view. The fog the 
 past week has been so dense that the sun has been 
 obscured most of the time. During the day 
 whales, porpoises, puffing-pigs, sea-lions, seals 
 and sharks have been seen in all directions. 
 
LAST DAY AT SEA. 213 
 
 Distance sailed, 50 miles. Lat. 38° 10'. Therm, 
 at M. 60°. 
 
 Saturday, Aug. 4. — The wind died away last 
 night about ten o'clock, and up to four o'clock, 
 P. M., we have not made ten miles. This forenoon 
 the water has been as smooth as a mirror, but the 
 fog is so dense that we cannot see twice the length 
 of the brig. 
 
 At half-past four o'clock, P. M., the fog lifted a 
 little, and we discovered a sail directly ahead, about 
 4 miles distant. Soon after a boat left the stranger 
 and was shortly alongside of us. The vessel proved 
 to be the schooner John L. Day, from New York, 
 which port she left on the 4th of March last. She 
 is bound for San Francisco, and has twenty-two 
 passengers on board. 
 
 At five o'clock, P. M., we made the Farallone 
 Islands, bearing south by east, distant some 3 miles. 
 The Farallones are a mass of barren rocks, project- 
 ing several hundred feet above the surface of the. 
 water, and are inhabited only by sea-fowl, sea- 
 lions and seals. They bear west by south from San 
 Francisco, and are about 25 miles distant from that 
 port. At half-past five o'clock a four-knot breeze 
 sprang up, and at this writing, eight o'clock, P. M., 
 we are within 12 miles of the Golden Gate. We 
 shall anchor to-night off" the mouth of the harbor 
 and run in to-morrow morning, wind permitting. 
 Distance sailed, 31 miles. Lat. 37° 58'; long. 123° 
 42'. Therm, at M. 64°. 
 
CHAPTEE XIII. 
 
 Pass through the Golden Gate and come to anchor in the 
 harbor of San Francisco — ^Visit the town — The Bank-Street 
 dry-goods dealer — Recapitulation of the voyage — Scene 
 at the post-office — Happy Valley — Leave the Osceola — In- 
 telligence from the mines — San Francisco as it was — Crime 
 and its punishment — The Parker House and its gambling- 
 tables — Climate of San Francisco — Start for the mines — 
 Mosquitoes and tules — Arrival at Stockton — Stockton in '49 
 — En route to the mines. 
 
 Sunday, Aug. 5. — Last night we came to anchor 
 just outside the Golden Gate, in eighteen fathoms 
 of water, where we remained until six o'clock this 
 morning, when we stood into the harbor, and at 
 eleven o'clock, A. M., rounded Clark's Point and 
 dropped anchor ofi" the town of San Francisco. 
 
 The cable had scarcely ceased rattling over the 
 bitts, before half a dozen shore-boats, manned by 
 piratical-looking beach-combers, were alongside of 
 us, which were soon filled with passengers at $2 per 
 head. Not being overstocked with the one thing 
 needful, I concluded to await a passage ashore in 
 one of the brig's boats, which the Captain informed 
 me would be ready in a few hours. 
 
 The first Philadelphian that came on board was a 
 man named Brown, formerly a dry-goods merchant 
 in Bank Street, in that city. Mr. Brown, like 
 a sensible man, availed himself of the Isthmus 
 
 (214) 
 
SUMMARY OF THE VOYAGE. 217 
 
 route in preference to a passage around Cape Horn, 
 and although he started at the same time we did, 
 reached California some four months ahead of us. 
 He had already made several thousand dollars by 
 transporting goods from San Francisco to Sacra- 
 mento City, and trafficking in provisions and min- 
 ing implements. 
 
 Immediately after dinner the boat was got ready, 
 and I went ashore for letters, but on reaching the 
 post-office I found it closed, which caused me to 
 turn away with a sad heart. I soon returned on 
 board the brig and commenced arranging my bag- 
 gage preparatory to transferring it on shore. 
 
 The following is a recapitulation of the voyage of 
 the Osceola between Philadelphia and San Francisco : 
 
 Sailed from Philadelphia, January 16, 1849, and 
 arrived at Rio de Janeiro on the 6th of March 
 following; number of days at sea, 49; distance 
 sailed, 6,088 miles. Remained in Pio, 12 days. 
 Sailed from Rio de Janeiro March 18, and arrived 
 at Talcahuana, Chili, May 14 ; number of days at 
 sea, 57; distance sailed, 6,156 miles. Remained in 
 Talcahuana, 13 days. Sailed from Talcahuana May 
 27, and arrived at San Francisco, August 5, 1849; 
 number of days at sea, 70; distance sailed, 7,064 
 miles. 
 
 Total number of days at sea, 176 
 
 in different ports, . . 25 
 . " " " from Philadelphia to San 
 
 Francisco, 201 
 
 Total number of miles sailed between Philadelphia 
 
 and San Francisco, .... . 19,308 
 
218 GOOD NEWS mOM HOME. 
 
 At daylight on the morning of the 6th, I went 
 ashore in the market-boat and again wended my 
 way over the sand-hills to the post-office, where I 
 found some two hundred individuals already formed 
 in file at the delivery-window anxiously awaiting 
 the opening of the office. I filed in at the rear of 
 the line formed at the window; at seven o'clock, A. 
 M., the shutters were unbarred and thrown open, 
 and the delivery of mail-matter commenced. After 
 remaining in the line upwards of two hours, I 
 reached the window and received three letters and 
 a New York Herald, containing my letter written 
 for that paper at Rio. I clutched the letters with 
 a nervous hand and with fear and trembling broke 
 the seals and glanced hurriedly over their contents. 
 They contained intelligence from the States up to 
 the month of June, and, when I learned that the 
 loved ones in their far-away home were all well, 
 my heart leaped with joy. On my way down to 
 the Plaza I met several of my fellow-passengers 
 on their way to the post-office. When I informed 
 them that it would require half a day to reach the 
 delivery-window, a disconsolate Dutchman, from 
 one of the interior counties of Pennsylvania, ejacu- 
 lated, "Mine Got in himmel; vat a tyfel of a 
 country dis ish !" I consoled him with the idea 
 that the farther he went, the worse he would prob- 
 ably fare. 
 
 In the afternoon I visited the encampment of the 
 gold-diggers in Happy Valley, for the purpose of 
 selecting a site on which to pitch my tent. On the 
 following day I moved my luggage ashore, and 
 

 ,L 
 
 BEACH OF YERBA BQENA COVE, 1S49. 
 
 POST-OFFICE. 1M9. 
 
 219 
 
EMPLOYMENT AT $8 PEK DAY. 221 
 
 located myself among tlie sojourners there. My 
 provisions and mining implements were soon landed 
 from the Osceola, and I made the necessary arrange- 
 ments for spending a few weeks in San Francisco 
 as comfortably as possible. I learned from the 
 experienced in such matters, that the water in the 
 tributaries of the Sacramento and San Joaquin was 
 too high to admit of working in the wet diggings to 
 advantage, and that the dry diggings could not be 
 successfully worked until late in the fall, after the 
 rainy season had set in. I therefore concluded to 
 remain in San Francisco until the middle of Sep- 
 tember. The limited state of my finances — six dol- 
 lars and seventy-five cents, all told — would not admit 
 of my remaining idle during the interim, therefore 
 I immediately set out in quest of employment. 
 Passing down Pacific Street toward Clark's Point, 
 I saw several of my fellow-passengers engaged 
 shoveling and wheeling dirt, at $5 per day. I 
 applied for a situation, but was informed there was 
 no vacancy. I soon after obtained a situation in 
 the lumber-yard of Palmer, Cook & Co., at $8 a 
 day, which I held until I had raised the requisite 
 funds to defray my expenses to the mines. Some 
 old fossil has said or written, perhaps both, that 
 " poverty is no disgrace ;" but to a person with a 
 diaphragm and an appetite, it is very unpleasant and 
 depressing, with the following bill of fare staring 
 him in the face : " Beefsteak, f 1 ; coffee, 75 cents ; 
 bread, with butter, 50 cents !" 
 
 San Francisco — formerly Yerba Buena — is a 
 queer place. It contains at this time a dozen adobe 
 
222 SECURITY OF LIFE AND PROPERTY. 
 
 structures and perhaps two hundred roughly-con- 
 structed frame buildings, mostly shipped around 
 Cape Horn. The beach, Happy Valley, for the 
 space of two miles, is covered with canvas and 
 rubber tents, and the adjacent sand-hills are dotted 
 to their summits with these frail but convenient 
 tenements of the prospective miner. The popula- 
 tion, numbering perhaps five thousand, is as hetero- 
 geneous as their habitations. It seems as though 
 every nation on the face of the earth had sent a 
 representative to this place, and that they had all 
 arrived with their credentials. Such a medley of 
 languages and jargon of tongues the world has 
 seldom seen. It is a modern Babel. Yet, para- 
 doxical as it may seem, it is nevertheless true, that 
 life and property are as secure here as in the 
 cities of New York, Boston or Philadelphia, and 
 fire-arms are seldom carried as weapons of defense 
 by either citizens or strangers. The commission of 
 a theft is a rare occurrence, although millions of 
 dollars' worth of merchandise is "lying around 
 loose" and unguarded. The raid by the citizens 
 on the " Hounds," a gang of cut-throats and thieves, 
 and the incarceration of five of the ringleaders on 
 board the U. 8. sloop-of-war Warren, some four 
 weeks previous to our arrival, has completely revo- 
 lutionized afiairs in San Francisco and placed a 
 wholesome check on roguery. It is universally 
 conceded in this country, that hanging is not one 
 of the " Lost Arts," and, so long as Judge Lynch 
 shall continue to occupy the bench, justice will be 
 meted out with an impartial hand. 
 
GAMBLING. 225 
 
 There are lying at anchor in the harbor of San 
 Francisco at this time, four U. S. vessels of war and 
 upwards of two hundred sail of merchantmen, most 
 of the latter being without crews, the gold fever 
 having carried them off to the mines. Rents are 
 enormously high. The Parker House, the principal 
 hotel in town, rents for one hundred and seventy- 
 Jive thousand dollars per annum ! The tenants are 
 principally gamblers, who, in some instances, pay 
 as high as $1,000 per month for the privilege of 
 running a monte or faro table. The roulette, Iceno, 
 rattle-and-snap and other small-fry gamblers pay 
 less amounts, but I am inclined to the belief that 
 they ]Dut as much money in their purses as do their 
 more aristocratic neighbors. The gaming-tables 
 are always crowded with those who have no better 
 sense than to stake their last ounce of dust on the 
 " hazard of a die." If the fickle goddess smiles on 
 them, well and good ; if she frowns, and they lose 
 the last farthing in their possession, they immedi- 
 ately hie away to the mines, and after having filled 
 their buckskin pouches with the " dust," return and 
 buck against faro and monte until their purses are 
 again depleted, and then once more to the mines 
 to retrieve their lost fortunes. In ninety-nine cases 
 out of every hundred, the more an individual puts 
 down on a gaming-table the less he takes up. In 
 the Parker House and El Dorado, full brass bands 
 are engaged at a cost of several hundred dollars a 
 night to draw victims into their toils — 
 
 " Step into my parlor, said the spider to the fly." 
 
226 quick: sales and light peofits. 
 
 Pyramids of golden nuggets of various sizes, ag- 
 gregating in value thousands of dollars, are dis- 
 played on the gambling-tables to excite the avarice 
 and cupidity of the unwary. 
 
 Mrs. Grundy has not yet arrived here, conse- 
 quently social and society lines have not been 
 strictly drawn. One man is equally as good as 
 another, and in some instances a little better. Every 
 one seems fully impressed with the belief that it is 
 either "root hog or die" — the majority root! All 
 seem to be working harmoniously on the same 
 plane. A graduate of Yale considers it no disgrace 
 to sell peanuts on the Plaza, a disciple of Coke 
 and Blackstone to drive a mule-team, nor a New 
 York poet to sell the New York Tribune at 50 cents 
 a copy. Mechanical labor commands from $12 to 
 $16 per day, and common laborers receive from $6 
 to $8 per day. Provisions and building materials 
 are exorbitantly high, but clothing and dry-goods 
 are selling as low as in the States. An article in 
 demand will sell at any price your conscience will 
 allow you to ask for it. I sold a force-pump that 
 cost $40 in Philadelphia to a Californian for $175, 
 and he considered that he got it remarkably cheap, 
 as he afterwards informed me. I assured him 
 that I was perfectly satisfied, and that my motto in 
 business was, quick sales and light profits. 
 
 The climate of San Francisco, though reputed 
 healthy, is not agreeable to the unacclimated. The 
 mornings and evenings during the spring and sum- 
 mer months are damp and chilly, and at meridian the 
 thermometer is usually somewhere in the neighbor- 
 
>L^-i 
 
 ,N^tfi 
 
 f 11 FT" 
 
 
 1 r-i- 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 PAIiKEE HOUSE AXD DEXNISON'S EXCHAXG 
 
 GE, 1849. 
 
 INTERIOR OF EL DORADO S.' 
 
 ALOON, J850. 
 
 227 
 
THE CLIMATE. 229 
 
 hood of 80°. A heavy dew falls at night, which 
 renders woolen clothing requisite during the summer 
 months. Were it not for the heavy rains, the winter 
 months would be the most delightful part of the 
 year. Between the rains the atmosphere is as mild 
 and balmy as June in the Atlantic States. I find 
 that summer clothing is of no manner of use here. 
 In the mines the dew, I am informed, is very light 
 during the spring, summer and fall, and the climate 
 approximates nearer to our own. 
 
 On the 4th of September I began to make the 
 necessary arrangements for my departure to the 
 mines. I exchanged my large sea-chest for a trunk, 
 which I packed full of clothing and placed in a 
 store-house, with the understanding that I should 
 pay three dollars per month storage or forfeit the 
 trunk and its contents at the expiration of six 
 mouths. The only articles of clothing I selected to 
 take to the mines were two red flannel shirts, a pair 
 of pilot-cloth pants, a pair of long mining boots 
 and a Mexican sombrero. I disposed of all my 
 provisions, with the exception of a half-barrel of 
 pork and a barrel of pilot-bread, which I concluded 
 would serve for my subsistence until I could dig 
 gold enough to replenish my stores. It was several 
 days before I could determine whether to visit the 
 northern or southern mines. I had heard nothing 
 of the southern mines previous to my arrival in 
 California, they having been discovered several 
 months after the first gold was. found by Marshall 
 at Sutter's Mill. The southern mines are reported 
 more healthy than the northern and equally rich. 
 
230 OFF FOK THE MINES. 
 
 therefore I concluded to give tliem the first trial. 
 Accordingly, on the morning of the 6th of Septem- 
 ber, I engaged passage on board the brigantine 
 Rambler, Captain Dunham, bound for Stockton, on 
 the San Joaquin River, distant from San Francisco 
 160 miles. The Rambler belonged to Palmer, 
 Cook & Co., owners of the lumber-yard in which I 
 had been employed most of the time since my ar- 
 rival in San Francisco, consequently they charged 
 me only f 16 passage to Stockton. 
 
 During the forenoon I struck my tent and re- 
 moved it, together with my provisions, on board 
 the Rambler. At one o'clock, P. M., accompanied 
 by two of the Osceola's passengers, I went on board 
 the brig, where I found some thirty adventurers 
 en route to the southern mines. We hove up an- 
 chor at two o'clock, and at sundown the wind died 
 entirely away, and we came to anchor in San Pablo 
 Bay, where we remained during the night. We 
 got under way at an early hour on the following 
 morning, and during the forenoon passed Benicia, 
 Boston and New York of the Pacific. The latter 
 place was surveyed and laid out in blocks, with 
 streets crossing each other at I'ight-angles, by its 
 original proprietor. Colonel J. Stevenson, of the 
 New York Pegiment of California Volunteers. It 
 contains a solitary frame building, and I fear it will 
 never rival its Atlantic namesake, either in popula- 
 tion or wealth. 
 
 At two o'clock, P. M., we left Suisun Bay and 
 entered the San Joaquin River. The wind and 
 tide being favorable, we made a good run during 
 
A MOSQUITO KAID. 233 
 
 the afternoon, and wlien the tide turned came to 
 anchor for the night. 
 
 When the sun went down behind the tules that 
 night the mosquitoes rose up. They swooped down 
 upon us hke the locusts of Egypt, with a determi- 
 nation to devour every green thing. There were 
 several on board the brig, and the mosquitoes 
 seemed to know it. They didn't wait upon the 
 order of coming, but they came in platoons, regi- 
 ments and brigades, and their music made night 
 hideous. "We stood up manfully against fearful 
 odds, and fought with a desperation worthy of a 
 better cause. We proposed an armistice, then a 
 treaty of peace with indemnity — anything to stop 
 the flow of blood ; but our adversaries presented 
 their bills so often that we found it impossible to 
 liquidate their claims, and as a last resort beat a 
 hasty retreat into the hold of the brig and fastened 
 down the hatches. 
 
 Either side of the San Joaquin, from its en- 
 trance into Suisun Bay to within a few miles of 
 Stockton, is bordered by a continuous tule marsh, 
 and during the summer and fall all the mosquitoes 
 in California hold high carnival here. Early on 
 the morning of the 8th we proceeded up the river 
 with a fair wind and favorable tide. Before night 
 we came to the conclusion that our brig was either 
 too large for the river, or the river too small for 
 the brig. Our Captain knew very little about 
 ■seamanship, and less about the channel, therefore 
 the brig ran aground several times during the day. 
 Whenever she grounded on a sand-bar or a mud- 
 
 14 
 
234 ARRIVAL IBT STOCKTON. 
 
 flat, a rope was made fast to tlie taffrail and all 
 hands went ashore among the tules and mosquitoes 
 and pulled her off. Captain Dunham being of an 
 irritable disposition, and never having experienced 
 religion in the natural way, nor taken any stock in 
 early piety, made things on board the Rambler 
 extremely lively for all hands. The exercise of 
 pulling the brig off of mud-flats became monoto- 
 nous before night, and the passengers rebelled. 
 The Captain's remarks being more forcible than 
 polite or convincing, we refused to obey his com- 
 mands, and he tied up the brig for the night 
 within 15 miles of Stockton. In nearly every 
 bend of the river, which is as crooked as a Vir- 
 ginia fence, we started a flock of ducks. I shot 
 several during the day. At five o'clock next 
 morning we got under way and proceeded up the 
 river to the mouth of the slough on which Stockton 
 is situated, where we again grounded, but got off 
 without much difficulty, and at four o'clock, P. M.^ 
 reached Stockton. 
 
 On my dej)arture from San Francisco, I had re- 
 ceived from Mr. George W.Wright, the junior part- 
 ner of the firm of Palmer, Cook & Co., a letter of 
 introduction to a merchant in Stockton, of the name 
 of Leland, whose acquaintance I made immediately 
 upon landing, and was invited by him to remove 
 my baggage on board his store-ship, tied up at the 
 bank of the slough, and consider it my home as 
 long as I remained in that place. I gladly availed 
 myself of his kind invitation, which was also ex- 
 tended to my two companions, the brothers Kelly, 
 
A SIGN OP CIVILIZATION. 237 
 
 and before sundown we were comfortably domiciled 
 on board the store-ship, surrounded by our baggage. 
 
 The first object that met my view on landing at 
 Stockton was that sure precursor of civilization, a 
 rudely-constructed gallows, looming up in the dis- 
 tance, on which two persons had been executed for 
 burglary a short time previous to my arrival. 
 Their graves were between the posts of the gibbet, 
 unmarked by head or foot-board. 
 
 Stockton is located on a slough of the San Joaquin, 
 about 3 miles above its entrance into that river, and 
 contains some fifty roughly-constructed frame build- 
 ings, and probably one hundred canvas tents. There 
 are perhaps one thousand persons who claim a home 
 in Stockton, and double that number who belong 
 to what is termed the floating population, hombres, 
 who are here to-day and gone to-morrow. The 
 town is located on an "eight-league square" tract 
 of land granted to Captain Charles M. Weber, by 
 the Mexican government, several years prior to the 
 discovery of gold in this country. Captain Weber 
 had command of a company of volunteers in Com- 
 modore Stockton's battalion, during the Mexican 
 and California war, and rendered essential service 
 throughout that campaign. Soon after the discovery 
 of gold at Sutter's Mill, Captain Weber laid out his 
 model city, and gave to it the name of his old friend 
 and companion-in-arms, Stockton. Stockton in 
 point of population and commercial advantages is 
 the third city in California, being rivaled only by 
 San Francisco and Sacramento City. This thriving 
 little city numbers among its pioneers and 23romi- 
 
238 SUCCESS AND DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 nent business men several Philadelphians, among 
 whom are Messrs. Gillingham and Henry Hugg. 
 
 During my brief sojourn in Stockton, miners were 
 constantly arriving from the different diggings, 
 some in quest of provisions, and others en route to 
 San Francisco for the purpose of returning to the 
 States by the first conveyance. Those who had gone 
 to the mines with the determination to give them a 
 thorough trial before crying peccavi were generally 
 successful; but those who had expected to realize for- 
 tunes immediately upon reaching the placers were 
 invariably disappointed, and becoming disheartened 
 returned to San Francisco with their hands in their 
 breeches' pockets, and their hearts very nearly in 
 the same place. I made it a rule to inquire of every 
 miner I met about his success in the mines, and the 
 best location for a green-hand to visit. Some an- 
 swered my interrogatories in a satisfactory manner, 
 and others, not being overstocked with the milk of 
 human kindness, intimated that I had better learn 
 from experience. I soon came to the latter con- 
 clusion, and commenced making the necessary prep- 
 arations for my departure. I packed my provisions 
 in raw-hide sacks, engaged transportation mules, 
 and on the morning of the 13th, accompanied by 
 the brothers Kelly, set out for the placers on the 
 river Calaveras, distant about 40 miles. 
 
CHAPTEE XIV. 
 
 First day and nigtt on the road — Digger Indians — The sur- 
 prise — Badly frightened — "Song of the Gold-Digger" — ■ 
 The wrong road — Arrival at the " diggins " — Commence 
 operations — The result — Rich " diggins " reported — Start on 
 a prospecting tour — Return disgusted — Discovery of a rich 
 bar — Commence operations — Sickness of the Author — Re- 
 turn to Stockton — Leave Stockton for San Francisco — 
 Changes wrought in two months — Canvass for a newspaper 
 route — The Pacific News — Its early history. 
 
 OuK first day's journey was over a level and 
 sparsely-timbered country, thickly covered with. 
 wild oats and mustard. Owing to the excessive heat 
 of the weather and the proverbial stubbornness of 
 our mules, we encamped the first night 12 miles 
 from Stockton. After the mules had been relieved 
 of their loads and pack-saddles and securely tethered, 
 we kindled a fire at the roots of a large oak, and, 
 having eaten a hastily-prepared meal of broiled 
 pork, pilot-bread and cofiee, spread our blankets on 
 the ground and turned in for the night. When I 
 awoke next morning, the muleteers had the animals 
 packed ready for a start, and my companions were 
 seated around the camp-fire discussing a pot of 
 coffee which I helped them to dispatch, then shoul- 
 dering our fire-arms we resumed our journey. The 
 heat and dust during the day were almost insupport- 
 able. The dust in our trail was as hot as the ashes 
 
 (239) 
 
240 VISIT A LODGE OF DIGGER INDIANS. 
 
 of a volcano, and curled and crisped our boots until 
 it was with, great difficulty we could travel. We 
 bivouacked tbe second night under the wide-spread- 
 ing branches of an oak on the north bank of the 
 Calaveras, 20 miles from our previous night's en- 
 campment. We killed several quail and squirrels 
 during the day, which, with the addition of hard- 
 tack and coffee, served for our supper. 
 
 In the evening we visited the lodge of a party of 
 Digger Indians en route to Stockton, who were 
 encamped a few hundred yards below us. They 
 treated us with great civility, and at parting pre- 
 sented us with a quarter of dried venison, which 
 was very acceptable. I presented the chief — who, 
 by-the-by, was one of the ugliest-looking red-skins 
 I ever beheld — with a plug of tobacco. The Digger 
 eats very little animal food. Like his brother, the 
 gorilla, be is a vegetarian and subsists principally 
 on wild berries and acorns, occasionally luxuriating 
 on snails and grasshoppers. He cuts his hair with 
 a sharp stone, and boils water in a basket. In 
 tbe winter he burrows in the earth like a prairie 
 dog, and emerges from his den in the spring as fat 
 as a grizzly. His costume is decidedly primitive 
 and airy, consisting of a breech-clout and a pair of 
 moccasins. Since civilization has overtaken him, 
 he occasionally dons a paper collar and a pair of 
 Mexican spurs. 
 
 On our return to camp we placed the muleteers 
 on guard, and wrapping ourselves in our blankets, 
 were soon fast in the embrace of Morpheus. Just 
 before daylight I was startled by the sharp report 
 
INDULGE IN A SONG. 243 
 
 of a rifle and a tremendous clattering of tin pans, 
 pots and kettles. I grasped my rifle, which was 
 lying alongside of me, and sprang behind the near- 
 est tree, where I found my two companions dodging 
 about like lizards around a cabbage-tree, expecting 
 every moment to be skewered by the arrow of an 
 Indian. I am not easily frightened, but I will con- 
 fess that I felt a little nervous. Our fears were 
 soon relieved by one of the muleteers, who informed 
 us that he had discharged his gun at a coyote. The 
 "varmint," not having the fear of j)owder and lead 
 before his eyes, had commenced depredations on 
 one of our provision sacks. He escaped unscathed, 
 but, in his sudden departure, had upset our coffee- 
 pot and other tinware, which impressed us with the 
 belief that the Diggers had made an attack on our 
 camp. 
 
 After rolling up our blankets, we set about pre- 
 paring our morning repast, which being completed 
 at sunrise, we assisted the muleteers to pack the 
 animals and again resumed our journey. Charley 
 Kelly and myself started ahead of the train, and 
 being in a musical mood, I struck up the following 
 song, to the air of " O Susannah," and my com- 
 panion joined in the chorus : 
 
 SONG OF THE GOLD-DIGGER. 
 
 I came from Quakerdelphia 
 
 Witli my wash-bowl on my knee, 
 
 I'm going to California, 
 The gold-dust for to see. 
 
244 SONG OF THE GOLD-DIGGEE. 
 
 It rained all night the day I left, 
 
 The weather it was dry. 
 The sun so hot I froze to death, 
 O Anna, don't you cry! 
 Chorus — O California ! 
 
 That's the land for me, 
 I'm going to Calaveras, 
 With my wash-bowl on my knee. 
 
 II. 
 
 The Osceola I did board. 
 
 And traveled on the sea ; 
 And every time I thought of home, 
 
 I wished it wasn't me ! 
 The brig she reared like any horse 
 
 That had of oats a wealth — 
 But she found she couldn't throw me, 
 So I thought I'd throw myself. 
 Chorus — O Ann Eliza ! 
 
 Don't you cry for me, 
 I'm going to Calaveras, 
 With my wash-bowl on my knee. 
 
 III. 
 
 I thought of all the pleasant times 
 
 We'd had together, dear ; 
 I thought I ought to cry a bit. 
 
 But couldn't find a tear ; 
 The pilot-bread was in my mouth. 
 
 The gold-dust in my eye. 
 And though from you I'm far away, 
 Dear Anna, don't you cry. 
 Chorus — O Ann Eliza ! 
 
 Don't you cry for me, 
 I'm going to Calaveras, 
 
 With my wash-bowl on my knee. 
 
TRACK OF A GRIZZLY. 245 
 
 IV. 
 
 I soon shall be in mining camp, 
 
 And then I'll look around, 
 And when I see the gold-dust there, 
 
 I'll pick it off the ground. 
 I'll scrape the mountains clean, old girl, 
 
 I'll drain the rivers dry, 
 A pocketful of rocks bring home, 
 
 So, Anna, don't you cry. 
 
 Chorus — O California ! 
 
 That's the land for me, 
 I'm going to Calaveras, 
 
 With my wash-bowl on my knee. 
 
 During the morning we killed a hare and several 
 quail. We also saw in the trail the fresh foot- 
 print of a grizzly, and congratulated ourselves that 
 the foot was not in it, for we had no desire to meet 
 one of those animals, even under the most favorable 
 circumstances. We stopped on the bank of a small 
 stream, 12 miles from our last encampment, and 
 awaited the arrival of our companions and baggage. 
 After dinner, I again set out ahead of the train, 
 and at four o'clock, P. M., arrived at Dos Agua — 
 "double springs" — where I learned from a Sonorian 
 that I had traveled some 4 miles beyond the trail 
 that led to the Calaveras diggings. After partaking 
 of a cup of coffee, for which I paid fifty cents, I re- 
 traced my steps to the Calaveras trail, and though 
 weary and footsore, pushed on as rapidly as possible 
 after my companions, whom I overtook at sundown, 
 as they were entering the Calaveras canon. I was 
 completely exhausted, and spreading my blanket on 
 the bank of the river, retired supperlees for the 
 
246 COMMENCE OPEEATIONS. 
 
 night. I awoke at an early hour next morning, 
 and after partaking of a hearty breakfast, discharged 
 the muleteers and commenced making preparations 
 for pitching my tent. 
 
 I suggested to my companions the propriety of 
 messing together, to which they readily assented. 
 We accordingly pitched our tents under a large oak 
 near the bank of the river, and spent the remainder 
 of the day unpacking and arranging our stores and 
 cooking utensils. Although our provisions were 
 joint stock, we agreed to dig for the oro separately — 
 each man for himself. 
 
 On the morning of the 17th, I arose at five 
 o'clock, and dressing myself a la California, shoul- 
 dered my pick, crow-bar and spade, and started, tin 
 pan in hand, for the bar of the river, where I com- 
 menced my initiatory labors at gold-digging. I 
 was engaged all the forenoon removing the large 
 rocks from my claim. In the afternoon I com- 
 menced washing the earth, and at sundown I 
 weighed my " dust " and found I had panned out a 
 quarter of an ounce — $4 worth. On the following 
 day I washed out $10 worth of the precious metal. 
 Learning from a Mexican that rich diggings had 
 been discovered by a party of Digger Indians, 
 on a bar several miles lower down the river, I re- 
 ported the circumstance to my companions, and a 
 party was forthwith formed to visit the Indian dig- 
 gings on the following day. 
 
 On the morning of the 20th of September, 
 accompanied by a party of miners of various 
 nationalities and colors, I started on a prospecting 
 
SEEKING BETTEK DIGGINGS. 249 
 
 tour to the reported rich. Indian- diggings. On our 
 arrival at the encampment of the Indians, we were 
 somewhat surprised at meeting only half a dozen 
 squaws and papooses. We inquired for the bucks, 
 but could obtain no satisfactory answer to our inter- 
 rogatories. Being somewhat fatigued by a march 
 of three hours over hills and through gulches and 
 canons, exposed to the broiling rays of the sun, we 
 placed our fire-arms against a tree, and sat down to 
 rest our weary limbs and chat with the squaws. 
 We had been seated only a few moments, when the 
 Indians commenced making their appearance from 
 all points of the compass. Every rock in the cafion 
 seemed to send forth a red-skin. We secured our 
 fire-arms and again sat down. The Indians were 
 rather shy at first, but after a little persuasion 
 seated themselves around us, and those who could 
 speak Spanish entered into conversation with us. 
 After a few preliminary remarks, we informed them 
 of the object of our visit, and asked if there was 
 plenty of oro in the canon. They shrugged their 
 shoulders and informed us that the canon was much 
 a malo ; but we placed very little reliance on what 
 they said, and in order fully to satisfy ourselves in 
 regard to the richness of the locality, commenced 
 prospecting. After traveling over the canon and 
 bed of the river several hours, looking for gold, we 
 came to the conclusion that the Indians had told 
 the truth, and, bidding them good-bye, commenced 
 retracing our steps. 
 
 Midway between the Indian encampment and 
 our own, we discovered a bar richer than the one 
 
250 GOLD-DUST AND RHEUMATISM. 
 
 we were working, and concluded to remove to it on 
 the following day. Accordingly, at an early hour 
 next morning, we bundled up our tents and pro- 
 yisions, packed them on mules, and started for the 
 new diggings, which we reached at noon. The 
 afternoon was spent in pitching our tents and ar- 
 ranging the provisions. At daylight next morning 
 I selected what I considered a good location, and 
 commenced operations. I labored hard two days 
 in removing the boulders from my claim, but 
 was amply rewarded for my labor. On the third 
 day I reached a crevice in a rock, some four feet 
 below the surface of the ground, and in two hours 
 succeeded in extracting therefrom forty-five dollars' 
 worth of gold in nuggets of the value of from 
 one to five dollars. -I did not report my good-luck 
 to my companions, but toiled on, early and late, 
 day after day, until I had extracted nearly four 
 hundred dollars' worth of the precious metal from 
 the claim. I then abandoned it, and reported pro- 
 gress to my fellow-diggers, all of whom had been 
 less fortunate than myself. Some had not averaged 
 one dollar per day ; others had been more success- 
 ful, yet none had met with the success they antici- 
 pated. Those who had expected to realize a fortune 
 in a few days or weeks were sadly disappointed. I 
 left San Francisco with the intention of remaining 
 in the mines during the fall and winter, but I had 
 not dug three weeks before I found my health and 
 strength failing. On the 10th of October, I had an 
 attack of rheumatism which doubled me up like a 
 rainbow and put a veto on any further attempts at 
 
MINING SCENE, 1849. 
 
SELL OUT AND EETIEE. 253 
 
 gold-digging. My companions advised me to re- 
 turn to Stockton or San Francisco and recruit my 
 healtli, but I declined doing so until I had become 
 so crippled by disease that I could scarcely hobble 
 out of my tent. 
 
 On the morning of the 12th, I sold my provisions 
 and mining implements by auction at ruinous rates, 
 and packing my wardrobe, consisting of an extra 
 flannel shirt, a pair of linsey-woolsey pants, a six- 
 shooter and a bowie-knife, I engaged passage in a 
 trader's cart, and, bidding my companions adieu, 
 started for Stockton, where I arrived the following 
 evening. 
 
 On my arrival in Stockton, I was advised by my 
 friend Leland to place myself under the charge of a 
 physician for a few weeks, or until I had fully re- 
 covered my health. Accordingly, I visited the 
 City Hospital, a large canvas tent, resembling very 
 much a circus pavilion, and inquired the price of 
 board with medical attendance. The attending 
 physician informed me that the charge was two 
 ounces — $32 — per day; but if I preferred being 
 visited at my own quarters, it would be some- 
 what less. After having learned that I was not 
 overstocked with the "root of all evil," he very 
 condescendingly informed me that he would charge 
 me only $16 a visit, and the cost of the medicine 
 prescribed. I left him with the promise that I 
 would employ him if I did not get better in a day 
 or two. On my way back to my lodgings, I re- 
 collected having purchased, before leaving Phila- 
 delphia, a bottle of opodeldoc, and I at once resolved 
 
254 EMBAKK IN BUSINESS. 
 
 upon testing its virtues before purchasing medi- 
 cine at California prices. I accordingly applied it 
 freely to my swollen limbs, and on the following 
 day I felt very much relieved. I continued the 
 ajDplication, and when the bottle was emptied of its 
 contents, I was a well man. I consider the twenty- 
 five cents paid for that bottle of opodeldoc the most 
 judicious investment I ever made. Having re- 
 covered my health, I cast about for some employ- 
 ment whereby I might turn an honest penny. 
 During my sojourn in Stockton, I mixed freely 
 with the returning and disgusted miners, from 
 whom I learned that they were selling their mining 
 implements at ruinously low prices. An idea struck 
 me one day, which I immediately acted upon, for 
 fear that another might strike in the same place 
 and cause an explosion. The heaven-born idea 
 that had penetrated my cranium was this : start in 
 the mercantile line, purchase the tents and imple- 
 ments of the returning miners at low figures, and 
 sell to the greenhorns en route to the mines at Cali- 
 fornia prices ! I purchased a large tent in which 
 to store my goods and commenced operations. 
 Fortune smiled on me, and I was happy. But 
 every rose has its thorn, and 
 
 " The best laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." 
 
 The first rain of the season dampened my ardor 
 and disheartened me. My bowels yearned for the 
 flesh-pots of San Francisco, so, early in November, 
 I bade farewell to Stockton, engaged passage on 
 
HAPPILY SETTLED IN HAPPY VALLEY. 257 
 
 board a schooner, and in due course of time reached 
 the city of the Golden Gate. 
 
 San Francisco, during my absence of two months, 
 had become so changed that I scarcely recognized 
 it. Substantial frame buildings had superseded 
 frail canvas tenements, and piers had been extended 
 many hundred yards into the bay, at which vessels 
 from the four quarters of the globe were dis- 
 charging their cargoes. I visited the gold-diggers' 
 encampment, Happy Valley, but that too was so 
 changed, that I could hardly recognize a familiar 
 spot or countenance. A three-story warehouse was 
 being erected on the spot where I had pitched my 
 tent two months previously. The saw and hammer 
 of the carpenter could be heard in every square, 
 and the voice of the crier and auctioneer at the 
 corner of nearly every street. The Flaza was covered 
 with booths, in which could be had the merchandise 
 of all nations. 
 
 As hotel accommodations were limited as well as 
 expensive, I purchased for flOO a ship's galley, 
 size four by five feet, which I located in Happy 
 Valley and commenced housekeeping. My fur- 
 niture consisted of an empty flour-barrel and a nail- 
 keg. The former served for a table and the latter 
 as a chair, minus a back. My cooking utensils were 
 as inexpensive as my furniture. A second-hand 
 frying-pan, a dilapidated coffee-pot, and a rheumatic 
 jack-knife comprised the catalogue. My bed con- 
 sisted of two blankets and a soft block of wood for 
 a pillow. Unfortunately, I was, by actual measure- 
 ment, eight inches longer than my shebang ; there- 
 
258 A NEW IDEA. 
 
 fore, when " I lay me down to sleep," I was com- 
 pelled to lie bias, and I couldn't turn over without 
 going out-of-doors. 
 
 " Man -wants but little here below," 
 
 but he wants that little long enough to turn over in. 
 With no disrespect to Happy Valley, there is one 
 thing which, as a truthful historian, I am compelled, 
 more in sorrow than in anger, to relate. The flea, 
 that festive and lively little "animile," was quite 
 prevalent. He annoyed me sorely, yea, prodig- 
 iously ! The sojourners in Happy Valley and sur- 
 rounding sand-hills never required cupping or 
 leeching, as both operations were performed by the 
 fleas, nolens volens. 
 
 Being the owner of a house, I commenced look- 
 ing about for some employment whereby I could 
 raise the needful to keep the pot boiling. My first 
 business venture was in the pickle line, and the 
 following extract from my journal will illustrate 
 the modus operandi : 
 
 " Pickles are scarce and sell at fabulous prices. The 
 beach of Happy Valley for miles is lined with dis- 
 carded pickle-jars and bottles, and I have conceived 
 the happy idea of utilizing them. I have gathered 
 up, cleansed and stored around my shebang, several 
 hundred bottles ready for use. This afternoon, I 
 boarded a vessel just arrived from Boston, and per- 
 suaded the Captain to sell me a barrel of salted 
 cucumbers and half a barrel of cider- vinegar, to be 
 delivered to-morrow morning." 
 
 After supper I wrapped myself in my blankets 
 
PICKLES AND TOBACCO PIPES. 259 
 
 and laid down to pleasant dreams ; but toward 
 morning, I had a vision, and in that vision I saw — 
 pickles. Captain Perkins delivered the cucumbers 
 and vinegar, according to agreement, received his 
 pay, and I immediately commenced bottling them. 
 Before night, I had the largest stock of bottled 
 pickles in, San Francisco, and at the close of the 
 week I struck a balance-sheet, and found that I had 
 cleared $300 by the speculation. My next mer- 
 cantile venture was a "corner" in. tobacco pipes, by 
 which I realized $150 in twenty-four hours. 
 
 Having abiding faith in the old aphorism, 
 " change makes change," I concluded to abandon 
 mercantile pursuits and try my luck at the news- 
 paper business. I resolved to commence at the 
 lower round of the ladder, and gradually work my 
 way upward. Suiting the action to the thought, I 
 at once applied to the proprietors of the Pacific 
 News, a tri-weekly, printed on a foolscap sheet, 
 then in its infancy, for permission to canvass for a 
 carrier's route on their journal. After a long in- 
 terview, during which the project was discussed 
 pro and con, I obtained the sole and exclusive right 
 to canvass for subscribers, and serve the News in 
 San Francisco and suburbs, which latter included 
 Happy Valley and adjacent sand-hills. 
 
 Messrs. Falkner & Leland, proprietors of the 
 Pacific News, were both Eastern men. Falkner 
 formerly published a paper in Norwich, Conn., and 
 Leland was one of the proprietors of the Clinton 
 Hotel, New York. The first number of the News 
 was issued on the 25th of August, with Falkner 
 
 15 
 
260 FKOM CAEBIER TO BOOK-KEEPEK. 
 
 as editor, and Leland, business manager. A few 
 weeks subsequently, Charles Eamcs, of Washing- 
 ton, D. C, appointed by President Polk consul to 
 the Hawaiian Islands, arrived in San Francisco, en 
 route, but was prevailed upon by Falkner & Leland 
 to forego his mission, locate in San Francisco, and 
 assume editorial charge of their journal, at a salary 
 of $500 per month. As the election and inaugu- 
 ration of Zachary Taylor, as President of the 
 United States, had rendered the recall of Mr. 
 Fames a foregone conclusion, that gentleman con- 
 sidered discretion the better part of valor, and 
 accepted the editorship of the News. 
 
 Simultaneously with the engagement of Mr. 
 Fames as editor-in-chief, a tall, lank, hirsute Yan- 
 kee, of the name of Ames alias "Boston" alias 
 "Big Ames," was engaged as local reporter. A 
 few weeks subsequently Mr. Ferdinand C. Ewer, a 
 recent graduate of old Harvard, and a gentleman 
 of fine literary attainments, was added to the staff 
 of the News as assistant editor. 
 
 I experienced little difficulty in getting up a 
 paying list of subscribers for the News. Nearly 
 every one on whom I called gladly subscribed for 
 it, and paid me promptly at the end of each week. 
 I had scarcely become accustomed to my new 
 vocation, when the situation of book-keeper was 
 tendered to me by the proprietors of the News, 
 with a salary of $100 a week. I sold my carrier's 
 route for $200, my shebang in Happy Valley for 
 $125, and accepted the situation, with the proffer 
 of a sleeping-bunk in the office. Soon after I was 
 
THE PACIFIC NEWS. 261 
 
 installed in my new quarters, Mr. Leland sold 
 his half-interest in the News to Major Allen, U. 8. 
 A., for 150,000, returned to New York and re- 
 sumed his former occupation, hotel-keeping. 
 
 The Pacifio News was the first tri- weekly, and 
 the third newspaper then published in California, 
 its cotemporaries being the Alta California, pub- 
 lished by Grilbert & Kemble, in San Francisco, and 
 the Placer Times, published by E. Gilbert & Co., 
 Sacramento City, and edited by Jesse Giles — both 
 weekly sheets, and small patterns at that, the latter 
 being foolscap size. Printing-paper was very scarce 
 in California, but the market was overstocked with 
 unruled foolscap, which was substituted for the 
 former. The size of the News was a foolscap sheet, 
 and as enlargement was a matter of impossibility, 
 supplementary sheets were added to accommodate 
 advertisers. The price of the News was 12J cents 
 a copy. Steamer edition, printed on wrapping- 
 paper of various colors and qualities, 50 cents a 
 copy. Advertisements were inserted at $5 a square, 
 each insertion. 
 
CHAPTEE XV. 
 
 First State election — The ■winning candidates — " Fire ! fire ! 
 fire !" — A million dollars' -worth of property destroyed — 
 "Big Ames's" report of the conflagration — An eccentric 
 judge — Muddy streets — First vocal entertainment in San 
 Francisco — Early theatricals — "Them literary fellers'' — 
 Terrence Mc Verdant — "A rallying song for the gold- 
 diggers." 
 
 The State Constitution, framed and signed by 
 the delegates at Monterey, in October, was sub- 
 mitted to a vote of the people on November 13th. 
 State officers were also voted for at the same time ; 
 and the election passed off in an orderly manner. 
 Out of the two thousand votes polled in San Fran- 
 cisco only five were opposed to the Constitution, and 
 in the whole country less than a thousand votes 
 were cast against it, and upwards of twelve thousand 
 for it. The following State officers, U. S. Senators 
 and Representatives were elected : 
 
 Governor, Peter H. Burnett; Lieutenant- Q-ov- 
 ernor, John McDougal; TJ. 8. Senators, John C. 
 Fremont, Wm. M. Gwin ; Representatives in Con- 
 gress, George W. Wright, Edward Gilbert ; Secre- 
 tary of State, Wm. Van Voorhies; Treasurer, 
 Richard Roman ; Comptroller, J. S. Houston ; At- 
 torney- General, Edward J. C. Kewen ; Surveyor- 
 General, Charles J. Whiting ; Chief Justice, S. C. 
 
 (262) 
 
FIRST ELECTIOlSr AND FIRST GKEAT FIEE. 265 
 
 Hastings ; Associate Justices, J. A. Lyon, Nathaniel 
 Bennett ; State Senators, Gabriel B. Post, Nathaniel 
 Bennett; Assembly, Wm. Van Voorhies, Edward 
 Randolph, Levi Stowell, J. H. Watson, J. A. Pat- 
 terson. 
 
 Late in October a Democratic meeting, the first 
 in California, was held in the Plaza, in front of the 
 " old adobe," at which the following officers were 
 chosen : President, Colonel John W. Geary ;* Vice- 
 Presidents, Dr. McMillan, Thomas J. Agnew, John 
 McVickar, W. H. Jones, O. P. Sutton, Annis Mer- 
 rill, E. V. Joyce and W. H. Jones ; Secretaries, J. 
 Ross Browne, John A. McGlynn, Joseph T. Dow- 
 ney and Daniel Cronin. A series of resolutions 
 were adopted, a red-hot Democratic speech delivered 
 by the Hon. Wm. Van Voorhies, and the meeting- 
 adjourned. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 24th of December, 
 San Francisco was aroused by the startling cry of 
 "fire ! fire V and the citizens rushed pell-mell to 
 the scene of conflagration. The fire originated in 
 Dennison's Exchange, adjoining the Parker House, 
 situated on Kearney Street, opposite the Plaza, and 
 in a few hours property valued at more than a mil- 
 lion dollars was destroyed. The Parker House, 
 one of the most imposing buildings in San Fran- 
 cisco, with its faro and monte tables and other 
 gambling paraphernalia, was totally destroyed, as 
 was also the El Dorado, at the corner of Washington 
 and Kearney Streets. The blowing up of several 
 buildings in Washington Street, near Montgomery, 
 
 * Afterward Goyernor of Pennsylvania. 
 
266 "big ames" disgusted, 
 
 by order of Alcalde Geary, arrested the progress of 
 the fire in that direction. Nearly every building 
 in the square bounded by Washington, Clay, Mont- 
 gomery and Kearney Streets was destroyed. The 
 controlling spirit during the progress of the fire 
 was David C. Broderick,* a New York fireman, 
 who worked like a Trojan, and whose stentorian 
 voice, shrill as a trumpet, could be heard above the 
 crashing of the falling buildings and the din of the 
 excited crowd. Before the ground in the burnt 
 district had become cold, the debris was removed, 
 canvas tenements erected, and the "gay gamboliers" 
 were again plying their vocation as unconcernedly 
 as if nothing had occurred to interfere with their 
 business. 
 
 That fire was a "big thing" for "big Ames," 
 local editor of the News. He wrote out a spread- 
 eagle report as long as the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence, but when it appeared in print on the fol- 
 lowing morning, " curtailed of its fair proportions," 
 cut down to less than a foolscap column, he was 
 completely demoralized. He lost his temper and 
 swore like a trooper. All efforts to soothe his 
 wounded feelings only added fresh fuel to the pent- 
 up volcano raging within his breast, which erupted 
 iron-clad oaths at every breath. He said "the 
 News was a contemptible one-horse sheet ; its pro- 
 prietors might possibly run a hotel, but they didn't 
 understand the first principles of newspaper pub- 
 lishing, and he'd be darned if he'd write another 
 line for the d d paper " — and he didn't. 
 
 * Subsequently U. S. Senator from California. 
 
A HAED-SHELL ALMOND. 267 
 
 During the fall the business of the Alcalde had 
 increased to such a degree, that the establishment 
 of another court, with civil jurisdiction only, and in 
 cases of sums exceeding $100, was authorized by 
 the Governor, and William B. Almond was ap- 
 pointed judge. His court was called the "Court of 
 First Instance." Almond was no paper-shell, but 
 a decidedly hard nut to crack, as the legal frater- 
 nity who practiced in his court soon learned. He 
 was a man of few words, and, to economize time, 
 generally decided a case on the testimony of the 
 first witness, without listening to the arguments of 
 counsel. During the trial of a trivial case before 
 his Honor, the counsel for the plaintiff called his 
 opponent an oscillating Tarquin. The judge, in a 
 stentorian voice, roared out : "A what ?" 
 
 " An oscillating Tarquin, your Honor." 
 
 The judge removed his feet from the table in 
 front of him, leaned forward, and pointing his 
 index finger toward the offending disciple of 
 Blackstone, ejaculated, in a voice of thunder : " If 
 this honorable court knows herself, and she thinks 
 she do, that remark is an insult to this honorable 
 court, and you are fined two ounces, and stand 
 committed till you down with the dust." 
 
 " But, your Honor," replied the trembling petti- 
 fogger. 
 
 " Silence, sir ; this honorable court won't tolerate 
 cussing, and never goes back on her decisions !" 
 
 It is needless to add that the fine was paid, and 
 the trial proceeded. 
 
 "Old Tarquin," as the judge was afterward called, 
 
268 THE EAINY SEASON AND THE STREETS. 
 
 was a decided character. On a subsequent occasion 
 he adjourned court ten minutes in order to take a 
 drink with one of the jurors. On another occasion 
 he insisted on trying two separate cases with the 
 same jury. He said the jurors understood the 
 rulings of the court, and rendered a square verdict! 
 The rainy season was now at its height — that 
 ever-to-be-remembered fall and winter of 1849-'50 
 — and the streets were simply awful ! Awful is a 
 mild term, but I can't just now call to mind a more 
 expressive adjective. They ran rivers of mud, and 
 swallowed up every living thing that attempted to 
 cross them. Water-|)roof suits and cavalry or long 
 boots were in great demand, and commanded Mun- 
 chausenistic prices. It was no uncommon occur- 
 rence to see at the same time a mule stalled in the 
 middle of the street with only his head above 
 the mud, and an unfortunate pedestrian who had 
 slipped off the plank sidewalk, being fished out by 
 a companion. Some good Samaritan, with a heart 
 overflowing with the milk of human kindness, 
 erected at the corner of Clay and Kearney Streets 
 the following warning to the unwary : 
 
 This steeet is impassable, 
 Not even jackassable ! 
 
 On January 8th, the anniversary of the Battle of 
 New Orleans, another election, the second in San 
 Francisco, was held for members of the Legislature, 
 
OLD SCHOOL-HOUSE, OPPOSITE THE PLAZA. 
 
 MUDDY STEFETS, WINTER OF ]849-'50. 
 
CONCEKT, CIECrS AND THEATKE. 271 
 
 Alcalde and Ayuntamiento. Despite the rain, Avhicli 
 poured down in torrents during the day, the un- 
 terrified voters turned out in full strength, and 
 elected the following gentlemen to the offices named : 
 State Senator, David C Broderick ; Member of As- 
 sembly, Samuel J. Clarke ; First Alcalde, John W. 
 Geary ; Second Alcalde, Frank Turk ; Ayunta- 
 miento, Hugh C. Murray, A. M. Van Nostrand, 
 M. Crooks, J. Hagan, F. C. Gray, Frank Tilford, 
 A. J. Ellis, Talbot H. Green, Wm. M. Stewart, 
 Samuel Brannan, W. H. Davis and James S. 
 Graham. 
 
 Man is naturally a social being ; he likes rational 
 enjoyment, and is fond of amusement. The first 
 vocal entertainment in San Francisco was given by 
 Mr. Stephen C. Massett, in the school-house, front- 
 ing the Plaza, on the evening of June 22d, 1849. 
 It was a one-man entertainment — Mr. Massett be- 
 ing the only performer. Front seats were reserved 
 for the ladies, of whom there were four present. 
 Tickets were $3 each, and the house was crowded 
 to overflowing. During the year 1849, and the 
 early part of 1850, circuses were established in San 
 Francisco, first by Eowe and soon after by Foley. 
 The following were the j)rices of admission : Pit, $3 ; 
 box, $5 ; private boxes, $50. The first theatrical 
 performance in San Francisco was given in Janu- 
 ary, 1850, by a company under the management 
 of Atwater & Madison, in the second story of 
 Washington Hall, on "Washington Street, opposite 
 the Plaza. The plays produced were Charles II 
 and The Wife. Subsequently, Mr. Eowe added a 
 
272 TEKEENCE McVEEDANT. 
 
 stage to his circus for theatrical performances, and 
 the following artistes were engaged : Mr. and Mrs. 
 Hambleton, Mr. and Mrs. Battuss, and Mr. and 
 Mrs. McCron. Mesdames Ray and Kirby soon 
 after joined the company. 
 
 About this time the editor of the News was sorely 
 worried by " them literary fellers," who abound in 
 all communities, with their contributions on all con- 
 ceivable subjects, which in most cases were con- 
 signed to the waste-basket, that receptacle of the 
 outcroppings of unappreciated genius. 
 
 The following epistle, however, found its way into 
 print. It was written by a disconsolate son of the 
 Emerald Isle to his sweetheart in New York, and 
 shows the status of matters viewed from a Hibernian 
 stand-point : 
 
 San Feansisky, Dec. 1, 1849. 
 Biddy Daelin' : — I've been to the mines, bad luck to 'em. 
 For sivin long weeks, Biddy, acushla, I sarcbed tbe bowels of 
 terry firmer for goold, and all I got was the dissinterry, by 
 rasin of workin' on an empty stomick. The divil a thing to 
 ate for brekfist, and the same for dinner, and ditto repated for 
 supper ; an' all the time throwing up mud an' wather, is mighty 
 wakening for the insides. Pitaytees was a $1 a pound, and no 
 mate to be had but gristly bares, which is tough customers. 
 In cowld wether the craythurs — I mane gristly bares — comes 
 down from the mountains, with their arums extended, as if 
 they wantid to bid ye welkim ; but the moment they're for- 
 nenst ye, they grab ye, the craythers, and squaze the breth o' 
 life out ov ye. Some ov the byes that wint out in the same 
 ship wid me found goold galore, but the divil as much as the 
 vally of a weddin'-ring, Biddy, did Terry git for his thrubble. 
 The black luck was on me, darlin', for lavin ye, a dacent, 
 modest colleen, as ye are, to come to a kunthry where the 
 wimia are the color of a dirthy copper-kittle, and have no 
 
EAELY POETEY. 273 
 
 more dry-goods on their backs, savin' your prisence, Biddy, 
 than mother Ave had before she turned manty-maker an' 
 interduced the fashun of the vegetabul apruns. 
 
 I got back from the mines a fortnit ago, and a most unfortnit 
 go it was for me that I ever wint there. Here I am in San 
 Fransisky knockin' about without a rap. What's to become of 
 me, Biddy, mavourneen, the saints only know. Only to think 
 that I should lave the comfortable berth I had swaping the 
 strates of New Yorick, to come to this haythen kunthry, where 
 the strate-claning is done by the burds, and drinkin', gamblin', 
 speckalatin' an' shooiside is the only fashionable amusements. 
 Ye'll see it statid in the papers, Biddy, that the diggers are 
 findin' goold in " quartz." Biddy, it's a lie ! — a base, disate- 
 ful, onchristian lie ! I niver seen a lump of goold yit that 
 would fill a gill measure. 
 
 Couldn't ye raise a subskripshun, Biddy, among the strate- 
 swapers, to pay me passidge back. If I was only back in New 
 Yorick, dead or alive, I'd niver lave it while grass grows and 
 wather runs. Your loving, 
 
 Teeeence McVeedaijt. 
 
 The following poem, the earliest written and pub- 
 lished in California, appeared in the Pacific News, 
 with the following editorial comments : 
 
 We cannot refrain from publishing the following vigorous 
 stanzas, trusting that they will impart as much pleasure in the 
 perusal, to our readers, as they have to ourselves. We should 
 be happy to give the author's name, as we deem them to possess 
 no ordinary merit : 
 
 A EALLYING SONG FOR THE GOLD-DIGGEES. 
 
 To the mines ! to the mines ! away to the mines ! 
 Where the virgin gold in the crevice shines ! 
 Where the shale and the slate and the quartz enfold, 
 In their stony arms, the glittering gold. 
 
274 . SONG OP THE GOLD-DIGGERS, 
 
 'Tis in vain that ye seek any longer to hide 
 Your treasures of gold in your rivers so wide, 
 In your gulches so deep, or your wild canon home, 
 For the Anglo-American race is come. 
 
 And the noise that ye hear is the sound of the spade, 
 The pick, the bar, and the bright shining blade. 
 Of the knife and the shovel, the cradle and pan, 
 Brave adjuncts of toil to the laboring man ! 
 
 Tar up in the mountain, all rugged and steep, 
 Far down in the canon, all foaming and deep, 
 In the bars of the rivers — the small mountain plains, 
 Lies the wealth that ye seek for, in numberless grains. 
 
 Turn the stream from its bed — search the bottom with care. 
 The largest, the richest, the finest is there ; 
 Dig deep in the gulches, nor stop till the stone 
 Eeveals thee its treasure, or tells thee there's none. 
 
 Nor be thou disheartened, dismayed nor cast down. 
 If success should decline thy first efibrts to crown j 
 Go ahead I Go ahead ! Since creation began, 
 " No wealth without toil," is the record to man. 
 
 Old Mammon the sound of your coming hears, 
 And, aroused from his sleep of a million years, 
 He gazes around him, in wild surprise, 
 As Mexican rule from the region flies. 
 
 Now hie thee, old Mammon, far over the sea ! 
 Thy long-hidden treasure all scattered shall be ; 
 For the hands that now grasp it, free, ardent and bold, 
 Will give to the world its lost millions of gold. 
 
 Then away to the mines ! away to the mines I 
 Where the virgin gold in the crevice shines ; 
 Where the shale and the slate and the quartz enfold. 
 In their stony arms, the glittering gold ! 
 
 A. E. K. 
 San Feancisco, March 22, 1850. 
 
CHAPTEE XVI. 
 
 Locate in Sacramento City — The Sacramento Transcript — 
 First election in Sacramento — Three tickets in the field — 
 Names of the city and county ofiicers elected — Meeting of 
 the CouncU-elect — Demas Strong chosen President — He 
 makes a speech — Adjourned meeting of Council — Mayor 
 Bigelow's message read and accepted — First message of the 
 first Mayor of Sacramento City. 
 
 DuEiisra the winter of 1849-'50, I made the 
 acquaintance of Mr. George Kenyon Fitch, a j)rac- 
 tical printer, from New Orleans, who arrived in 
 San Francisco via Isthmus of Panama, in the 
 month of September. Before leaving New Orleans, 
 Mr. Fitch shipped, in a sailing vessel around Cape 
 Horn, two presses, (a hand and card press,) types, 
 ink, and some thirty reams of printing-paper, with 
 the view of publishing a newspaper in California, 
 on the arrival of the material. The invoice price 
 of the paper, types and presses was $950, but when 
 they arrived in San Francisco, in the early part of 
 March, 1850, they were valued at |15,000, and 
 could have been sold for that amount in coin, as 
 printing material was very scarce, and "sorts" 
 were worth their weight in gold ! Mr. Fitch pro- 
 posed to five of the attaches of the Pacific News — 
 F. C. Ewer, H. 8. Warren, J. M. Julian, Theodore 
 Russell and S. C. Upham — the formation of a co- 
 
 (275) 
 
276 THE "SACRAMENTO TEANSCEIPT." 
 
 partnership, with a view to the publication of a 
 newspaper in Sacramento City. The proposition 
 was accepted, articles of agreement executed, and 
 we started at once for that place. 
 
 We arrived in Sacramento immediately after the 
 great flood, which had inundated the town, and it 
 was in a sadly demoralized condition. We rented 
 the second floor af a frame building, on Second 
 Street, between J and K Streets, and on the^rs^ 
 day of April, 1850, the initial number of the tri- 
 weekly Sacramento Transcript was issued by Fitch, 
 Upham & Co. It was printed on a folio sheet, in 
 Brevier and Nonpareil type. A steamer edition, 
 for circulation in the Atlantic States, was printed 
 on the flrst of each month. The tri-weekly sold 
 at 12J cents a copy, and the steamer edition at 50 
 cents a copy. Advertisements were inserted at $4 
 per square, each insertion. The six copartners 
 occupied the following positions ou the paper : G. 
 K. Fitch, heavy and fighting editor ; F. C. Ewer, 
 literary editor; H. S. Warren, foreman; J. M. 
 Julian, compositor ; Theodore Russell, pressman, 
 and S. C. Upham, local reporter, printer's devil, 
 business manager, "dead-head," etc. 
 
 Sacramento City being in its infancy, in a 
 chrysalis or state of transition, just emerging from 
 its shell, hotel accommodations were limited. We 
 lodged in the office, and obtained our meals at 
 different places. I paid $16 a week for two meals 
 a day at a French restaurant, on the levee, and 
 slept on the soft side of the office counter, with a 
 roll of paper for a pillow. 
 
277 
 
 Tlie object and aims of the Transcript were fully 
 set forth in the following " Introductory :" 
 
 The opening of a new paper is like the planting of a tree. 
 The hopes of many hearts cluster around it. The anxious 
 mind labors over it by night and by day, and the watchful 
 eye guards it, as, in its youth, it struggles into life. Encour- 
 aging words and the helping hand of its friends fall like rain- 
 drops around it, and the approving smile of the public steals 
 in, like the sunshine, to open its buds. In the covert of its 
 leaves all pure principles and high aims should find a home ; 
 and from it invisible voices should rise forth from the nests of 
 those pure principles, to delight, to warm and to instruct the 
 world. Its shade should be free to all. It should reach forth 
 its branches to shield the innocent from the pelting storm ; 
 and, conscious of its fearless might, men should come to it for 
 protection, and find refreshment in its shade. It should be 
 nurtured by no unhealthy influences ; it should be propped up 
 by no interested motives ; its growth should be free and unre- 
 strained. Perchance it may wither in its youth, and no longer 
 be the home of healthy influences. Perhaps it may be stricken 
 in its manhood by the storm of adversity. Perchance it may 
 flourish through the years and grow green ; but, of all dangers 
 that assail it from without, the insidious influence of those who 
 may cluster around it for their own private ends is the most 
 withering, and the most to be feared. A newspaper should 
 never be used. It is too tremendous a lever to be brought to 
 bear for any purpose, save the good of the public. 
 
 Such is our ideal ; and with such an ideal before us, do we 
 present ourselves before the public of Sacramento City. In 
 politics, the Transcript will sedulously maintain an independ- 
 ent course, endeavoring to do justice to both parties. In re- 
 ligion, it will be neutral. We shall earnestly advocate such 
 measures as we deem to be for the best interests of our city. 
 We shall urge the introduction of every class of improve- 
 ments — shoot error as it flies, and watch for every injury that 
 is stealing in upon us. We shall endeavor to present to our 
 readers in Sacramento City and the mines, the news from the 
 
278 • A MOMENTOUS DAY. 
 
 Pacific Coast, from the States, from Europe, from China and 
 the Islands of the Pacific. For our friends in San Francisco 
 and abroad, we shall collect the earliest intelligence from the 
 mines. "We shall inform them of the condition of things in 
 California during the successive stages of its rapid growth, and 
 shall spare no labor or expense to give our sheet that variety 
 and interest which an intelligent community demands. Every 
 facility will be extended to our advertising friends. So soon 
 as the want of Sacramento will warrant it, we shall enlarge 
 our sheet and issue our paper daily. 
 
 A part of our columns will be devoted to literature, to criti- 
 cism, poetry, and anything of the belles-lettres cast. We have 
 procured not only correspondents who will keep us advised of 
 the latest intelligence from the mines, but several from San 
 Francisco and the States, whose papers will be of a lighter 
 and more literary character. We shall endeavor to give the 
 Transcript an extensive circulation in the placers. It will 
 thus be a connecting link between the business and mining 
 community ; furnishing merchants in San Francisco and Sac- 
 ramento a convenient means for communication with the 
 mines. 
 
 Such are our aims, and to attain them we shall use our 
 highest endeavors ; trusting, as we embark in the enterprise, 
 that our well-meant efforts will meet with support from the 
 known liberality of the inhabitants of the city of our adoption. 
 
 The day on which the first number of the Tran- 
 script was published, in addition to being "All- 
 fools' Day''' was election day in Sacramento. It 
 was the first election under the City Charter, and 
 there were three tickets in the field. Canvassing 
 had been going on for several weeks previously, 
 both in the city and throughout the county, and 
 an immense number of ballots and handbills 
 had been circulated. The polls remained open 
 until late in the evening, and there were lively 
 
SPECIMEN ADVERTISEMENTS. . 279 
 
 times around the ballot-boxes. There was no 
 rioting, but a great deal of superfluous gas was 
 ventilated and considerable whisky drunk. The 
 following political advertisements, published in the 
 Transcript on the morning of the election, will 
 serve to show the complexion of affairs : 
 
 DEMOCRATIC NOMINATIONS. — In 
 
 Sursuance of a public call, a meeting of 
 lemocratic citizens was convened at the 
 
 ' City Hotel, in Sacramento City,on Monday 
 
 evening, March 25, 1850, for the purpose of organizing 
 the Democratic Party, and nominating a Ticket for 
 City and County Officers, to he supported at the en- 
 suingelection. John S. Fowler was called to the chair ; 
 J. P. Kogers, H. A. Shelden and Lorin Pickering were 
 chosen Vice Presidents, and John K. Brown and Or- 
 lando McICnight appointed Secretaries. 
 
 On motion, a committee of three was appointed hy 
 the chair to draft resolutions; whereupon L. Picker- 
 ing, James McClatchy, and J. K. Brown, were ap- 
 pointed such committee : 
 
 On motion, a committee of fifteen was appointed by 
 the chair to report a Ticket to be supported at the 
 coming election for City and County Of&cers, and the 
 following gentlemen constituted such committee : 
 
 Wm. C. Kibbe, John Ayres, Alex. Boyd, C. H. Cum- 
 mings, James McClatchy, James Orchard, D. B. Milne, 
 
 McCalla, Noulton, J. Sherwood, J. F. Thorp, 
 
 Levi Hermance, J. E. Eiggs, Wm. S. Jackson, J. Dem- 
 Ing. 
 
 The committee appointed to report a Ticket, having 
 retired, reported the following — 
 
 CITY TICKET. 
 
 For Mayor— Thomas J. Henley. 
 
 For City Recorder— Charles A. Johnson. 
 
 For Marshal— N. C. Cunningham. 
 
 For City Attorney— A. C. Monson. 
 
 For Assessor— B. F. Moore. 
 
 For Treasurer— Barton Lee. 
 
 For City Council— John S. Fowler, J. Sherwood, E. 
 W. Vansickle, Wm. Baker, Wm. C. Kibbe, J. Harden- 
 bergh, Orlando McKniglit, E. L. Brown, P. M. Dorsey. 
 
 COUNTY TICKET. 
 
 For Clerk Supreme Court— E. H. Tharp. 
 
 District Attorney— John K. Brown. 
 
 County Judge— Ansel J. McCall. ____- 
 
 County Clerk— Leander Warren. 
 
 County Attorney— Lewis Aldrich. 
 
 County Surveyor— J. H. Dickerson. 
 
 Sheriff- 
 County Eeoorder- Lewis A. Birdsall. 
 
 Coroner— P. F. Ewer. 
 
 County Treasurer— Eugene F. Gillespie. 
 
 County Assessor— L. P. Stafford. 
 The Committee on Eesolutions reported the follow- 
 ing preamble and resolutions : 
 
 Wliereas, a Government has been organized ; a Con- 
 stitution adopted ; and a new State already, or about 
 to be admitted into the Union : and, whereas, through 
 the proper authorities, a City Charter has been ob- 
 tained for this city, it becomes all true Eepublicana to 
 exert themselves in procuring wholesome laws, and 
 the success of sound democratic principles— the only 
 principles that can secure a proper administration of 
 16 
 
280 SPECIMEN ADVERTISEMENTS, 
 
 goyemment and equal rights and privileges among 
 the governed— therefore, be it 
 
 Resolved, That the organization of government cre- 
 ates a necessity for the organization of party. 
 
 Resolved, That the repuolican principles laid down 
 hy Jefferson, the Father of Democracy, and the mea- 
 sures that have characterized all democratic adminis- 
 trations, meet with our hearty approval and unquali- 
 fied support. 
 
 Resolved, That in Municipal, as well as State and 
 National Governments, the laws should be so framed 
 as to secure equal rights to all, and special privileges 
 to none. 
 
 Resolved, That honest and honorable competition is 
 the life of trade, and that we are opposed to fostering 
 one branch of business at the expense of another, or 
 building up one enterprise by taxing another : but 
 that we stand on the broad platform of "Pree Trade 
 and Sailors' Rights." 
 
 Resolved, That the practice heretofore adopted, of 
 taxing business instead of property, and which is still 
 authorized hy section 5th of me City Charter, is neither 
 wise nor democratic, but that all revenue necessary to 
 defray the expenses of government should be collected 
 by a direct tax, levied upon property. 
 
 Resolved, That a fair and liberal compensation only^ 
 be awarded to office holders for their services, and not 
 such emoluments as may induce all to become office seekers. 
 
 Resolved, That as it is never too soon to advocate 
 Democratic principles, so it is never too early to exer- 
 cise our united efforts in securing their triumph. 
 
 Resolved, That we now launch the good old ship of 
 Democracy— spread her canvas to the breeze— nail her 
 colors to the mast— and pledge our united efforts to 
 secure the triumphant election of the regularly nomi- 
 nated Democratic candidates. 
 
 On motion, Levi Hermance, Barton Lee, E. W. Cro- 
 well, S. W. Gregg, and J, F. Thorp, were constituted a 
 To\vn Committee. 
 
 On m.otion, The Town Committee were instructed 
 to confer with Democrats throughout the county for 
 the purpose of holding a County Convention and or- 
 ganizing the Democratic party throughout the county. 
 
 On motion, the meeting adjourned. 
 
 JOHN S. FOWLER, Chairman. 
 
 X K. Brown, ) cpp-Ptarips 
 
 Orlando McKnight, / ^ecreiaries. 
 
 It 
 
 CITIZENS' MEETING —At a spontane- 
 ous assemblage of the citizens of Sacra- 
 Snento City, held at the City Hotel, on 
 Monday evening, the 25th inst., immedi- 
 ately upon tlie adjournment of the self-constituted 
 Democratic meeting, whereat an attempt was made to 
 organize a Democratic party, Demas Strong was called 
 to the chair, and Jos. W. Winans appointed Secretary. 
 
 After some able and eloquent addresses, in explana- 
 tion of the object of the meeting, the following resolu- 
 tions were unanimously adopted: 
 
 Resolved, That a committee of five be appointed to 
 draft a series of resolutions, for presentation at a sub- 
 sequent public meeting of the citizens of Sacramento 
 City, of the time and place of holding which, public 
 notice shall be given by the chairman. 
 
 Resolved, That Messrs. Nickerson, Nolan, Bullock, 
 Winans, and Warbass, constitute such committee. 
 
 Resolved, That the Chair be added to such commit- 
 tee as the chairman thereof. 
 
 Resolved, That in the view of this meeting, any at- 
 tempt at this time to effect a political organization, on 
 party grounds, is TOTALLY UNCALLED FOR, and 
 that the meeting held this evening, prior to the present 
 meeting, did not, and does Tioi represent the Democratic 
 Party of Sacramento City. 
 
 Resolved, That the Democratic Republicans here as- 
 
SPECIMEN ADVERTISEMENTS. 281 
 
 sembled, protest against the very partial proceedings 
 of said meeting, as being contrary to Democratic prin- 
 ciples and usages, and recommend the electors of Sac- 
 ramento City to give their franchise to such men as 
 they may deem most suitable to fill the various offices 
 in their gift. 
 
 Jteso.ved, That the proceedings of this meeting be 
 published in the "Placer Times" and "Sacramento 
 Transcript." 
 On motion, the meeting was thereupon adjourned. 
 DEMAS STRONG, Chairman. 
 
 Jos. W. WiNANS, Secretary^ It 
 
 KANCHEROS, TO THE RESCUE !— The 
 enemy is in the field— our bills have been 
 ^^ mutilated, and in some instances de- 
 w ^ stroyed; but let not your " an^^r passions 
 rise" in consequence of the indignity. Imitate as far 
 as in your power lies the example of your leader. 
 Keep cool, work hard and vote early. Remember that 
 abuse and curses, like young chickens, " will come 
 home to roost." When once the votes are in the ballot 
 boxes, no appeal can be taken. Hombees. 
 
 RANCHO TICKET. 
 
 THROUGH BY DAYLIGHT! 
 
 For Mayor— JOSEPH GRANT. 
 
 For City Recorder— B. F. Washington. 
 
 For Councilmen— T. McDowell, C. A. Tweed, Z. Hub- 
 bard, Charles O. Brewster, E. J. Feeney, D. Strong, Dr. 
 J. F. Morse. Dr. James S. Martin, Charles Ef. Miller. 
 
 For City Marshal— M. D. Eyre. 
 
 For City Attorney— A. C. Monson. 
 
 For City Assessor— Wm. F. Prettyman. 
 
 For City Treasurer— Barton Lee. 
 
 RANCHO TICKET— For the County. 
 " AU's well tJiat ctmZs well" 
 
 For Clerk of the Supreme Court— E. H. Tharp, 
 
 For District Attorney— William C. Wallace. 
 
 For County Judge— Edward J. Willis. 
 
 For County Clerk— Presley Dunlap. 
 
 For County Attorney— John H. McKune. 
 
 For County Surveyor— Andrew J. Binney. 
 
 For Sherift— Joseph D. Magee, (better known as 
 Johnny Rancho.) 
 
 For County Recorder— Thomas A. Warbass. 
 
 For County Assessor— D. W. Thorpe. 
 
 For Coroner— Henry F. Beadle. 
 _ Fo r County Tr easurer— Wm. Glaskin. It 
 
 JJ®^ Capt. W. G. MARCY authorizes us to announce 
 the withdrawal of his name as candidate for the ofBce 
 of Clerk of the Supreme Court, in favor of E. H. 
 THARP, Esq., the present Clerk. 
 
 .8®* To THE Public. I am authorized to say to the 
 friends of EUGENE F. GILLESPIE, that his business 
 makes it impossible for him to run for or accept any 
 office ; at the same time he is grateful to his friends for 
 their confidence manifested by the nomination of h\m 
 for Councilman and County Treasurer. 
 
 A, M. WINN. 
 , Sacramento City, March 29, 1850. ap 1 It 
 
 The whole number of votes polled for Mayor was 
 2,493, and Hardin Bigelow, the peoples' candidate, 
 had a majority over all others of 323, The follow- 
 ing is a list of the city and county officers elected. 
 
282 
 
 THE OPFICEKS ELECTED. 
 
 with the number of votes received by each can- 
 didate : 
 
 Mayor, Hardin Bigelow, 
 
 
 
 
 1,521 
 
 Oity Recorder, B. F. Washington, 
 
 
 
 
 885 
 
 " Marshal, N. C. Cunningham, 
 
 
 
 
 1,323 
 
 " Attorney, J. Neely Johnson, 
 
 
 
 
 1,697 
 
 " Assessor, J. W. "Woodland, 
 
 
 
 
 792 
 
 " Treasurer, Barton Lee, . 
 
 
 
 
 2,310 
 
 " Council, C. A. Tweed, , 
 
 
 
 
 1,629 
 
 " V.Spalding, . 
 
 
 
 
 1,621 
 
 " " Demas Strong, . 
 
 
 
 
 1,420 
 
 " T. McDowell, . 
 
 
 
 
 1,462 
 
 " " J. McKenzie, . 
 
 
 
 
 1,182 
 
 " C.H. Miller, . 
 
 
 
 
 887 
 
 " J. E. Hardenbergh, 
 
 
 
 
 862 
 
 " " Jesse Moore, 
 
 
 
 
 869 
 
 " A. P. Petit, 
 
 
 
 
 804 
 
 County Treasurer, "William Glaskin, 
 
 
 
 1,104 
 
 District Attorney, "Wm. C. "Wallace, 
 
 
 
 2,011 
 
 County " J. H. McKune, . 
 
 
 
 2,021 
 
 
 ' Judge, E. J. Willis, . 
 
 
 
 
 1,818 
 
 
 ' Clerk, Presley Dunlap, 
 
 
 
 
 1,567 
 
 
 ' Recorder, L. A. Birdsall, 
 
 
 
 
 714 
 
 
 ' Sheriff, J. McKinney, . 
 
 
 
 
 619 
 
 
 ' Surveyor, J. G. Cleal, . 
 
 
 
 
 1,152 
 
 
 ' Assessor, D. W. Thorp, 
 
 
 
 
 1,224 
 
 
 ' Coroner, P. F. Ewer, . 
 
 
 
 
 579- 
 
 Cle 
 
 rh Supreme Court, E. H. Tharp, 
 
 
 
 
 1,313 
 
 A meeting of the Council elect was held at the 
 Court-house, on the morning of the 4th of April, 
 and, on motion of Jesse Moore, C. A. Tweed was 
 called to the chair, as President pro tern., and on 
 motion of Volney Spaulding, Chas. H. Miller was 
 requested to act as Secretary pro tern. On motion 
 of Demas Strong, the members of the Council pro- 
 
THE COUNCIL ORGANIZED. 283 
 
 ceeded to the election of President of that body. 
 Mr. Demas Strong having received a majority of 
 the votes "was declared duly elected President of the 
 Council, and, after being conducted to the chair by 
 a committee, returned thanks for the honor con- 
 ferred on him in a brief but appropriate address. 
 A committee was also appointed to wait upon the 
 Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Mayor-elect, and inform 
 him that the Council was duly organized, and 
 ready to receive any communication he might think 
 proper to make. The Mayor appeared before the 
 Council and delivered a short and pertinent address. 
 The Council then adjourned to meet on the follow- 
 ing day at ten o'clock, A. M. The Council met 
 the next day pursuant to adjournment, and a mes- 
 sage from his Honor, the Mayor, was read, accepted 
 and referred to a select committee. The regular 
 meetings of the board were ordered to be held on 
 Tuesday evening of each week, at seven o'clock, at 
 the Court-house; and the board then adjourned. 
 The following is the first message of the first 
 Mayor of Sacramento City : 
 
 to the honoeable the president and council of 
 Saceamento Citt : 
 
 Gentlemen: — -In compliance witli a duty imposed upon 
 me by our City Charter, I respectfully submit tlie following for 
 your consideration. 
 
 The first great and paramount object to be accomplished the 
 present year, and one which involves the deepest interest of 
 the citizens of Sacramento City, is the immediate construction 
 of a levee, to protect permanently the city from future inunda- 
 tion by water. By the 7th section of the Charter, the city is 
 
284 THE FIEST mayor's FIRST MESSAGE. 
 
 restrained from raising a revenue to exceed $100,000 for the 
 current expenses of the year, without direct authority from the 
 people. 
 
 I, therefore, respectfully recommend the immediate passage 
 of an order in Council directing an election at an early date to 
 raise the necessary revenue for the completion of the work. 
 The estimated amount of material required for the entire 
 work, ascertained by the late survey of the City Engineer, 
 is about 160,000 cubic yards, and the estimated cost $250,000. 
 This sum, I believe, will exceed the actual cost of the work, 
 but it is far safer to raise more than is required than not 
 enough. 
 
 I would further recommend that a cheap railway track be 
 laid along the levee or bank of the river, and the material 
 brought from more distant points where it can be obtained of 
 a better quality and at a cheaper rate. Such a track along 
 the levee, of not over two miles in length, will not interfere 
 with the business on the levee, and will afford the most ready 
 and cheap conveyance of material to fill up the low places in 
 the city. 
 
 I would recommend also that the present banks of the river 
 be not disturbed, as they are bold and easy of access, and form 
 a far more permanent barrier to the action of the water than 
 the finances of the city will allow to be made the present year 
 without rendering taxation at once onerous and oppressive. 
 The grading and paving of the levee is a work that can . be 
 accomplished at a later period, when our population and tax- 
 able property shall have greatly increased, and as the necessity 
 may arise. 
 
 Few, if any, of the commercial points along the margins of 
 our great and navigable rivers present less obstacles to the 
 complete success of a city than that of Sacramento, occupying, 
 as it does, the most elevated position upon the banks of the 
 Sacramento River above Suisun Bay, being at the immediate 
 head of ship-navigation, and controlling nearly three-fourths 
 of all the gold region of California — ^with no evident marks of 
 periodical inundation, but subject only to those occasional and 
 violent convulsions of water that occur in all countries, and 
 
TIMELY SUGGESTIONS. 285 
 
 ■which have been more destructive upon the north-western 
 Pacific Coast the present year than, ever before known. But 
 an embankment averaging two and a half feet in height along 
 the bank of the river, or a levee, with a fifty-foot base, and a 
 dike or embankment from the levee or high gro\ind in the 
 southern part of the city of about one mile in length, and 
 the filliDg of two or three inlets from the American River, 
 would have completely protected the city from the late un- 
 usual high water, and the consequent loss to the citizens. 
 The necessity of an early commencement of the work is 
 apparent from the fact that the material becomes very hard 
 and compact in the extreme drought of the latter part of the 
 season. 
 
 The three small lakes that will be included within the limits 
 of the levee are of the utmost importance to the city, as they 
 form natural depositories for the surplus water that may accu- 
 mulate within the city limits during the winter or rainy season, 
 or that may find its way through any porous strata during the 
 high water. 
 
 The whole limit of the present corporation should be included 
 wiiiiin the levee, for there cannot be a doubt but the whole 
 area will soon be covered with buildings, in view of the 
 commanding position of Sacramento, and its relation to a 
 constantly-increasing mining region, capable of sustaining a 
 population of five millions by its mining and agricultural 
 resources. 
 
 I would recommend that the fiind raised for this object be 
 raised as a separate and distinct fund from the other expenses 
 of the city. 
 
 I would further recommend the establishment of such regu- 
 lations upon the present levee as will best promote the interest 
 of the business community and yield the greatest revenue toi 
 the city. The regulations as adopted upon the levee in the 
 diflTerent municipalities of New Orleans, would, I think, be- 
 very applicable to this city. It will be necessary to have some 
 wharf-ships, anchored at convenient places, for steamboat and 
 passenger landings, under suitable rates of wharfage. 
 
 The practice of keeping powder and loaded guns in stores 
 
286 TIMELY SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 and tents, generally, is one that requires immediate remedy. 
 The accident that occurred at the late fire by the discharge of 
 a loaded gun, and the constant explosions of powder that occur 
 at every fire, will soon drive the citizens from saving the pro- 
 perty of their neighbors during a fire, as their own lives are 
 in danger. 
 
 I would, therefore, recommend the licensing of certain es- 
 tablishments, in safe locations, for the sale of powder, and the 
 restraining of others. 
 
 And I especially recommend liberal appropriations for the 
 establishment of fire companies ; and that every aid and en- 
 couragement consistent be given said companies, as the only 
 security to property in a city without insurance is in a well- 
 organized fire department. 
 
 I would further recommend to the early attention of the 
 Council the adoption of immediate measures for the removal 
 of the deposit of animal matter and other nuisances within the 
 limits of the city proper, and that a sum of $5,000 be loaned 
 for this and other purposes so essential to the health and credit 
 of the city. 
 
 The necessity will arise in due time, or as soon as the finances 
 of the city will permit, for the erection of a City Hospital, to 
 be supported by the city. Such institutions are the just pride 
 of Americans in all our cities. Any regulations which may 
 now be in existence for the care of the poor, should receive 
 liberal support from the city. 
 
 The necessity for establishing a City Prison will soon arise, 
 unless one should be established by the county which will 
 answer both purposes. One can be obtained at very small 
 expense, as a foreign vessel can be purchased below very 
 cheap, which the Collector will permit to come up to this 
 place for that purpose. 
 
 In regard to the various offices within your gift, I would 
 recommend the appointment of honest and capable men, and 
 hold them to the strictest accountabilities, and that the most 
 rigid economy be practiced in all the departments of the city 
 government. 
 
 I would also recommend that just and uniform assessments 
 
TIMELY SUGGESTIONS. 287 
 
 be made upon real and personal property as tlie basis of tax- 
 ation, -with such incidental taxation as the circumstances and 
 wants of the city may require; and that such assessments 
 and levy of taxes be made quarterly during the current year, 
 in order to make the burden of the people as light as pos- 
 sible, meet the rapid increase of real and personal prop- 
 erty, and more justly equalize taxation. The stranger that 
 may arrive six months hence with his capital is as much 
 to be benefited by the improvements of the city as the present 
 citizen. When the assessment-roll is once made out, it will 
 require but little additional expense to correct it once in three 
 months. 
 
 I am unable to ascertain the exact liabilities of the city ; 
 but, from the best information I am able to obtain, they will 
 amount to $60,000, and no accruing revenue whatever. This 
 sum, together with the current expenses of the year, cannot be 
 less than one hundred and sixty thousand (160,000) dollars. 
 All just liabilities of the city should, by all means, be paid, 
 and at as early a date as the city finances will allow. I have 
 no doubt that the sum authorized by the Charter, with such 
 incidental revenue as can be created, will be ample and sufii- 
 cient for the current expenses of the year and the payment of 
 present liabilities. The only sum necessary to be raised by a 
 vote of the people will be for the levee. 
 
 It will require much patriotism and forbearance on the part 
 of the people to meet the accruing wants of the city the coming 
 year. I believe, however, the sum can be raised so as not to 
 be oppressive. 
 
 I would especially recommend to the Council that every 
 aid, consistent with their authority and the finances of the 
 city, be given to public schools. 
 
 There are other very necessary and important improvements 
 to be made in the city, such as the grubbing and grading of 
 the streets, the building of bridges and sidewalks, and the 
 erection of a market-house; all of which will claim your 
 attention ia due time; but our present embarrassments and 
 limited authority for raising money admonish us not to under- 
 take too much. 
 
288 TIMELY SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 I believe, however, tliat a just, energetic and economical 
 course on our part, •wWcli mil command the confidence and 
 respect of the people, will insure a sufficient revenue for all 
 practical and beneficial purposes. 
 
 HAEDIN BIGELOW, 
 
 Mayor of the City. 
 Sacramento City, April 6th, 1850. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 First conflagration in Sacramento City — Amount of property 
 destroyed — Collation given to the fire department by Mayor 
 Bigelow — Henri Herz, the French composer and pianist — 
 His concerts in Sacramento City — First negro minstrel per- 
 formance in Sacramento — Rowe's Olympic Circus — Grand 
 soiree — Rival politicians — First meeting of the I. 0. of 
 O. F. in Sacramento City — The Masons and Odd Fellows 
 establish a hospital — Sutter Lodge of Ancient York Masons 
 — Private hospitals — First public marriage in Sacramento — 
 The Placer Times — Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence. 
 
 At oae o'clock, on tte morning of the 4tli of 
 April, the citizens of Sacramento. City were aroused 
 from their slumbers by the appalling cry of "fire!" 
 The fire commenced in the store of Messrs. Hoope & 
 L'Amoreux, and spread rapidly north and south. 
 The buildings consumed fronted on the levee, be- 
 tween J and K Streets. The El Dorado, adjoining 
 the store of Hoope & L'Amoreux on the north, 
 soon caught and was enveloped in a sheet of flame. 
 At the same time, the next store to the south, in 
 which was the Express Ofiice of Brown & Knowl- 
 ton, caught and was speedily consumed. The wind 
 was blowing from the north at the time, and 
 Fowler & Co.'s store next became a prey to the 
 conflagration. The fire also spread in a northerly 
 direction from the El Dorado to the general mer- 
 chandise store of Bailey, Morrison & Co. ; nor was 
 
 (289) 
 
290 FIKST FIEE IN SACRAMENTO. 
 
 its course staved in this direction until the next 
 building, occupied by Tliomas Bannister as a general 
 grocery and eating-house, had been consumed; while 
 at the same time, at the south from Messrs. Fowler & 
 Co.'s store, the fire passed to the General Jackson 
 House, which was entirely destroyed. Here the 
 progress of the flames was arrested ; the drug store 
 of Dr. Crane, the next building toward the south, 
 having been torn down. Messrs. Jackson & Adams 
 occupied a canvas house in the rear of Hoope & 
 L'Amoreux's building, which was also consumed. 
 
 The loss sustained by Thomas Bannister was 
 12,000; Bailey, Morrison & Co., |5,000; El Dorado, 
 owned by Geo. H. Pettybone, $14,000; James 
 Hyslop, $3,000; Hoope & L'Amoreux, |20,000, 
 together with the loss of books and jDapers ; Mr. 
 Yates Ferguson had also in this store $2,000 worth 
 of • goods and $1,000 in gold-dust ; the books, 
 drugs and instruments of Dr. Chas. Burrell burned 
 were valued at $1,000; stock of provisions in 
 Jackson & Adams's canvas house, $2,000 ; Messrs. 
 Fowler & Co., $10,000; Frank Green, $600. A 
 large amount of property was saved by Mr. Demas 
 Strong, aided by the fire department. Both the 
 engine and hook and ladder company were upon 
 the field early and worked manfully. The hook 
 and ladder company did good service in hauling 
 away buildings that must have otherwise been the 
 cause of spreading the conflagration, and the engine 
 company spared no pains or labor to make their 
 engine as effective as possible. There were several 
 explosions of j^owder during the fire. A loaded 
 
COLLATION TO THE FIEEMEN. 291 
 
 gun in one of tlie burning houses exploded, wound- 
 ing Jos. M. Hancock in the hand. 
 
 After the fire, the members of the fire department 
 were invited, with their friends, by Mayor Bigelow, 
 to repair to the City Hotel, where a collation was 
 spread for them on the long table, which reached 
 from one end of the dining-room to the other. 
 After having fortified the inner man, toasts were 
 oflfered and brief speeches made by Messrs. Bigelow, 
 Strong, Fowler, McNulty, Bailey and others, and 
 the company adjourned in much better spirits than 
 when fighting the fire. 
 
 On the day of the fire, before the ashes were cold 
 on the site of the General Jackson House, Frank 
 Green cleaned away the rubbish and erected a 
 frame 22 by 23 feet, which he covered with canvas, 
 and before night had his bar fully supplied with 
 liquors, which he dispensed to the thirsty crowd at 
 50 cents a drink ! 
 
 Henri Herz, the celebrated composer and pianist, 
 who arrived in San Francisco on the 1st of April, 
 gave the first of a series of three concerts in Sacra- 
 mento City, on the evening of the 16th of the same 
 month, at the New Hall, corner of M and Front 
 Streets. The following announcement of the affair 
 appeared in the Transcript : 
 
 ^T^HE Composer and Pianist, H. 
 
 HEKZ will give his first Grand Concert, 
 vocal -and instrumental, at the New Hall, comer of 
 M and Front street, on 
 
 THIS EVENING, April 16, 
 On which occasion Henri Herz will play several of his 
 most celebrated pieces, and conclude the Concert with 
 an extemporaneous performance on several American, 
 French, Italian and German popular songs. 
 Mr. EEED will sing several of his favorite ballads. 
 
292 HENKI HEEZ'S COSTCEKTS. 
 
 Mr. S. BROWN will perform two solos on the Comet- 
 a-Piston. 
 
 G. PETINOS will preside at the Piano Forte. 
 
 Mr. HERZ, at the earnest solicitation of many of onr 
 citizens, has agreed to give three concerts in Sacramen- 
 to City, previous to his departure hy the next steamer. 
 
 For further particulars, see small bills. 
 
 Tickets for the course, (three concerts,) SIO ; single 
 tickets. Si each ;— to be procured at the bars of the Sut- 
 ter and City Hotels; at the oifice of the "Transcript," 
 and at the door. 
 
 Doors open at 7 — concert to commence at 8 o'clock. 
 apl6-lt 
 
 The concert came off on the evening announced, 
 but owing to the absence of Mr. Brown, who was 
 engaged to perform two solos on the cornet-a-piston, 
 the programme was somewhat curtailed. The piano 
 used on the occasion, the only one in tlie city, con- 
 tained only six octaves, which somewhat cramped 
 the genius of the great master, but he gave an ad- 
 mirable entertainment, nevertheless, and the audi- 
 ence was delighted. As tickets of admission were 
 $4 each, and no one was admitted without a "biled 
 shirt," the audience was not large, but very select. 
 At the conclusion of the concert, Mr. Herz and 
 several of the audience repaired, by invitation, to 
 the cottage of Mr. P. B. Cornwall, where they 
 " tripped the light fantastic toe " until a late hour. 
 Mr. Cornwall, during a residence of eighteen months 
 in California, had amassed a fortune of half a mil- 
 lion dollars, and was on the eve of his departure for 
 tlie States. During the evening, Mr. Cornwall 
 presented to Mr. Herz a magnificent gold watch- 
 chain, composed entirely of specimens artistically 
 linked together. At the remaining two concerts, 
 Mr. Herz was assisted by Mr. S. C. Massett, who 
 was announced on the programme as follows: "The 
 celebrated vocalist, S. C. Massett, will sing several 
 
THEATKES AND SEEENADEKS. 293 
 
 songs and ballads, and give comic recitations, to- 
 gether with imitations illustrative of the peculiari- 
 ties of Yankee character." 
 
 I will here state, that tlie first regular theatrical 
 entertainment in California was given in Sacra- 
 mento City, on October 18th, 1849, at the Eagle 
 Theatre, on Front Street, between I and J Streets, 
 by the following company : Messrs. J. B. Atwater, 
 J. H. McCabe, T. Fairchild, Chas. B. Price, H. F. 
 Daley, Henry Bay, A. W. Wright, J. Haines and 
 Mrs. Bay. The Eagle Theatre, a frail structure, 
 closed never to open again on the 4th of January, 
 1860, and was succeeded by the Tehama Theatre, 
 under the management of Mrs. J. C. Kirby, an 
 accomplished and talented actress, and widow of 
 "wake me up when Kirby dies" Kirby. Attached 
 to the Tehama company were Mesdames Hambleton, 
 Mestayer and Bingham, and Messrs. Atwater, Fair- 
 child, McCloskey, Bingham, Byers and Downie. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Hambleton were both accomplished 
 artistes; Mr. Hambleton was a fine comedian, "a 
 fellow of infinite jest," and he could also play tragic 
 characters in an acceptable manner. 
 
 On the 23d of April, 1850, "Donnelly's Ethio- 
 pian Serenders" gave their first entertainment at 
 the New Hall, corner of Front and M Streets, being 
 the^7'S^ exhibition of Ethiopian Minstrelsy given in 
 Sacramento City. The j)rice of admission was $2, 
 and the house was crowded. The following an- 
 nouncement was published in the Transcript of 
 April 20: 
 
294 EOWe's OLYMPIC OIECUS. 
 
 DONNELLY'S 
 
 Htliiopian Serenaders. 
 
 ]lf ESSES. DONNELLY, (formerly 
 
 •^^ of Christy's Minstrels,) 
 
 WARD, STEPHENS. 
 
 KITTS, NESBET, • 
 
 Respectfully announce to the public that they -will 
 give a series of Entertainments at the New Halt, (ad- 
 joining the new Theatre,) comer of M and Front 
 streets, commencing TUEdDAY EVENING, the 23d 
 Inst. 
 
 Admission, $2— tickets can he procured at the bars 
 of the principal Hotels, also at the oface of the Tran- 
 script, and at the door. 
 
 Front seats reserved for ladies. 
 
 Doors open at 7 o'clock— performance to com.mence 
 at 8 o'clock precisely. ap20-2t 
 
 On the evening of May 2dj Mr. J. A. Eowe opened 
 his Olympic Oircus, the first circus in Sacramento 
 City, at the new Pacific Theatre on M Street, with 
 the following programme : 
 
 Ho'nre's Olynnpic Circxis, 
 
 At the New Pacific Theatre^ on M street. 
 
 ¥ A. ROWE, Proprietor and Man- 
 
 ^^ * ager, has the honor to announce to the 
 citizens of Sacramento City, that his arrangements are 
 at length completed for the opening of a new and ele- 
 gant building devoted to feats of Horsemanship. He 
 relies -with confidence on the liberal support of the 
 admirers of the Equestrian art, assuring the public 
 that nothing shall be wanting on his part to win their 
 approbation. 
 
 Equestrian Director, Mr. J. Rowe ; Ring Master, Mr. 
 Westcott ; Clown, Mr. Moor ; Leader of the Orchestra, 
 Mr, Smithsnyder. 
 
 PROGRAMME FOR THIS EVENING, May 2d.— The 
 performance will commence with an Overture from 
 William Tell, performed by the Orchestra; followed 
 by a Grand Star and Waltz Entree, on six horses, led 
 by Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, embracing a variety of rapid 
 evolutions. After which, Mr. Rowe will dance his 
 celebrated Dancing Horse "Adonis," to the favorite 
 tune of Yankee Doodle. To be followed by an act of 
 horsemanship by the Little Rising Star, Master Rafael, 
 a pupil of Mr. Rowe's, who will execute his daring 
 Equestrian Feats, Leaping Whip, Garters, Hoops, 
 riding upon his head, with the horse at full speed. 
 Mr. Rowe will then introduce his celebrated domestic 
 Horse Adonis, in the beautiful scene of the Indian 
 Hunter, and his Wild Charger. Mr. Burke will sing 
 an Irish Comic Song, " You may travel the wide world 
 over." Mr. Rowe will appear in the circle and go 
 through his principal Leaping Act, on his favorite 
 charger, leaping a variety of difficult objects held over 
 the circle, displaying many classical attitudes, with 
 his horse at full speed. At this period of the perform- 
 ance there will be an intermission of ten minutes, 
 giving the audience an opportunity of refreshing 
 
THE GEAND SOIREE. 295 
 
 themselves at the adjoining saloons. Part II. — Dr. 
 Downs will introduce the laughahle scene of the Peas- 
 ant's Frolic, in which the Clown will take an active 
 part on the noble horse Napoleon. Mr. Burke will 
 dance a Sailor's Hornpipe. Mr. Rowe will represent 
 on horseback the much admired scene of the Ameri- 
 can Tar. Intermission of fifteen minutes in order to 
 give time for the preparation of the Afterpiece. The 
 whole to conclude with the very laughable pantomime 
 of The Cobbler's Daughter, Clown to the whole perform- 
 ance, Mr. Moor. 
 
 The Assistant Manager. Mr. Kirbey, with sufficient 
 officers, will be in attendance to keep order and de- 
 corum. 
 
 BHce of ^(jTntsston.— Private boxes S5; dress circle 
 and parquette, S3 ; second tier, 82. 
 
 Doors open at half past seven, and performance to 
 commence precisely at 8 o'clock. 
 
 Tickets and private boxes can be obtained by apply- 
 ing at the box ofhce from 10 a. m. to 12 m., and from 3 
 to 5 p. M. ; also during the performance. m2 
 
 The completion of the new Pacific Theatre was 
 celebrated by a grand ball, which came off at the 
 theatre on the evening of the 25th of April, and 
 was the grandest affair of its kind that had ever 
 taken place in California. In order to make the 
 event more attractive, invitations were extended to 
 ladies residing in San Francisco and Stockton,, 
 several of whom were present. The following an- 
 nouncement of the Grand Soiree appeared in the 
 advertising columns of the Transcript: 
 
 JK«?=- At a meeting of a number of citizens of Sacra- 
 mento City, the following gentlemen were constituted 
 Managers of a Grand Soiree to be given in honor of 
 the erection and opening of the Pacific Theatre: 
 
 Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Capt Sackett, 
 " T. J. White, M. D., Job H. Watson, 
 " P. B. Cornwall, S. Brannan, 
 
 Barton Lee, Almarin B. Paul, 
 
 Judge Schoolcraft, J. F. Morse, 
 
 Judge Thomas, Thomas A. Warbass, 
 
 Eugene F. Gillespie, J. A. Blossom, 
 
 C. D. Cleveland, M. D., A. Lee, 
 
 Col. Winn, B. F. Washington, 
 
 S. P. Dewey, D. Strong, 
 
 A. P. Petit, P. Brunell, 
 
 J. H. Giles, G. B. Freeland, 
 
 F. C. Kwer J. Nicholas. 
 
 Col. H. A. Baker, T. McDowell, 
 
 E. P. Pearis, M. D., E. E. Pratt, 
 
 James Queen, W. F. Prettyman, 
 
 Murray Morrison, I. B. Marshall, 
 
 J. S. Fowler, E. D. Tory. 
 
 ^®^ At a meeting of the Managers of the Grand 
 Soiree, held at the counting room of Messrs. Paul, 
 White & Co., Dr. Thomas J. White was called to the 
 17 
 
296 THE ORAND SOIREE. 
 
 chair, and Almabin B. Patjl appointed Secretary. 
 The meeting being duly oi^anized the following reso- 
 lutions -were offered and adopted : 
 
 1st. Resolved, That this party shall he given on the 
 25th ol April. 
 
 2d. Resolved, That the President shall appoint such 
 persons as he may deem suitable to act on the follow- 
 ing committees: 
 
 1st. Reception and Invitation. 
 2d. Floor. 
 
 3d. On Refreshments. 
 4th. On Finance. 
 Judge Schoolcraft being called upon to perform this 
 duty, reported the following : 
 
 Committee of Invitaiion and Reception. 
 Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Murray Morrison, 
 
 " T. J. White, E,. P. Pearis. M. D., 
 
 F. C. Ewer, Col. H. A. Baker, 
 John S. Fowler, C. B. Cleveland, M. D., 
 J. H. Giles, E. D. Tory. 
 
 Floor CommiUee. 
 Judge Thomas, Almarin B. Paul, 
 
 G. B. Freeland, Thomas A. Warbass, 
 F. C. Ewer, G. P. Dewey, 
 
 A. P. Petit, W. F. Prettyman. 
 
 R^reshmerd CommiUee. 
 D. Strong, James Queen, 
 
 B. F. "Washington, Capt. Sackett, 
 J. Nicholas, E. R. Pratt, 
 
 J. A. Blossom. 
 Committee on Finance. 
 Eugene Gillespie, Barton Lee, 
 
 J. F. Morse, Col. Winn, 
 
 B. Brunell, Judge Schoolcraft, 
 
 A. Lee. 
 
 3d. Resolved, That the duties of each committee be 
 defined, and that the Secretary shall notify them of 
 the same, 
 
 4th. Resolved, That the Secretary be empowered to 
 £11 all vacancies. t 
 
 5th. Resolved, That the various committees be under 
 the control of the managers, as a Committee of the 
 Whole. 
 
 6th. Resolved, That the managers meet at the Saloon 
 of the Theatre, to receive the reports of the various 
 committees on Monday Evening, 'Z2d inst, at half past 
 7 o'clock. 
 
 7th. Resolved, That the proceedings be published in 
 the several city papers, and that the meeting new ad- 
 journ. T. J. WHITE, President. 
 
 Almarix B. Paul, Secretary. It 
 
 Grand Soiree, 
 
 J^^ At a meeting of the Managers of the Grand 
 Soiree, holden at the Saloon of the Pacific Theatre, on 
 the afternoon of the 19th inst., the following resolu- 
 tions were adopted: 
 
 1st. Resolved, That tickets of admission be issued to 
 ladies as well as to gentlemen, and that the gentlemen 
 be required to present them as well as their own, at 
 the door on the evening of the Soiree. 
 
 2d. Resolved, That gentlemen desiring tickets will 
 apply for them to the Committee of Invitation, through 
 the secretary. 
 
 3d. Resolved, That the price of admission tickets be 
 $25. ALMARIN B. PAUL, Sec'y. 
 
 Committee of Invitation and Rec&piion 
 
 For the Grand Soiree to be given on the evening of 
 
 the 25th April, at the Pacific Theatre. 
 
 EON. HAEDIN BIGELOW, MURBAY MORRISON, 
 
 " T. J. WHITE, B. A. PEARIS, M. D,, 
 
 F. C. EWER, COL. W. A. BAKER, 
 
 JOHN S. FOWLEB, C. B. CLEVELAND. M. D., 
 
 J. H. GILES, ALMARIN E. PAUL. 
 
 ap20-3t 
 
A COUNCILMAN EESIGNS. 297 
 
 Sacramento City put on her best bib and tucker 
 in honor of this aflfair. The parquette of the theatre 
 was floored over, a fine band of music engaged, and 
 a magnificent supper was served for the occasion 
 under the supervision of Mr. John S. Fowler, pro- 
 prietor of the City Hotel. Dancing was continued 
 until the "wee small hours," and many of the 
 participants "didn't go home till morning, till day- 
 light did appear." Mr. E. C. Kemble, one of the 
 editors of the Alta California, came up from San 
 Francisco to attend the soiree, but on examining 
 his apparel, found that his pantaloons were a little 
 too seedy to pass regulation muster. His "biled 
 shirt " and swallow-tail coat were unexceptionable, 
 and to complete his tout ensemble, I loaned him my 
 best black cassimeres, which had been laid away 
 in lavender since leaving Philadelphia. The fit 
 was a tight one; so tight in fact, that a sudden 
 attempt to sit down would have caused an irrepar- 
 able collapse of the fabric in a very undesirable and 
 embarrassing quarter; but luck favored him, and 
 he passed the ordeal without accident to the pants. 
 
 Mr. Charles H. Miller, one of the city fathers 
 elected on the 1st of April, upon "sober second 
 thought," declined the honor conferred upon him, 
 and an election to fill the vacancy was ordered by 
 the President of Common Council, to take place on 
 the 21st of May. The following patriots^ anxious 
 to serve their country, announced themselves as 
 candidates for the office. The cards of the two 
 Aeronauts, and that of A. D. Bell, are decidedly 
 unique : 
 
298 
 
 ELECTION AND EESTJLT. 
 
 .(Ef We are authorized to announce Dr. T. J. WHITE 
 as a candidate for a seat in the Common Council, in 
 the pla ce of C. H. Miller, resigned. mll-5t 
 
 ^^TlANDIDATE FOE THE COMMON OOTJNCIL.— The 
 
 many friend^ of JAMES QUEEN, Esq., propose his 
 name to the voters of Sacramento as a candidate for a 
 seatinthe Common Council to fill the vacancy of Chas. 
 
 H. Miller, Esq., resigned. 
 
 .0®" Notice.— The undersigned having been pre- 
 sented to the public as a candidate to fill the vacancy 
 in the City Council, respectfully solicits the considera- 
 tion of those of his friends who think him worthy of 
 their support. JAMES QUEEN. 
 Election on Tuesday, May 21st. 4t 
 At the solicitation of individuals who have 
 the good of Sacramento City at heart, Doct. 
 Charles H. Morrill, formerly^roTiaMiinthe 
 States, (a permanent resident here,) is a can- 
 didate to hll the vacancy in the Council, oc- 
 casioned by the resignation of C. H. Miller, 
 Esq, Election to take place on the 21st instant. 
 ml4 4t 
 
 At the solicitation of my wife Nancy, 
 ■<vho has the good of herself at heart, and 
 deeply interested in the successful cultiva- 
 tion of mutton-heads, A. D. Bell, who has 
 raade several descents in a diving bell, 
 and late one of the floaiinn population of 
 tliis aquatic city, is a candidate for the City 
 Council at the election to take place on the 21st inst. 
 
 It* 
 
 At the earnest solicitation of numerous friends who 
 cherish a lively interest in tlie welfare of Sacramento 
 City, J. F. Luken, formerly JUronaut of Cincinnati in 
 the United States, (and now permanently located here,) 
 announces himself as a candidate for a seat in the 
 Council. Election to take place on Tuesday, (this 
 day) the 21st inst. 
 
 The election came off as announced witli the fol- 
 lowing result : 
 
 James Queen, . 
 ^Y. N. Doughty, 
 T. J. White, . 
 a IT. Morrill, 
 A. D. Bell, . 
 Rejected as illegal. 
 
 Whole number of votes polled, 
 
 1,008 
 
 571 
 
 337 
 
 86 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1,957 
 
 Queen's plurality, 
 " majority, 
 
 437. 
 69 
 
I. O. O. F. AND A. Y. M. HOSPITAL. 299 
 
 Queen was triumphant, and tlie Aeronauts went 
 up in a balloon ! 
 
 On the evening of April 4th, the members of the 
 Independent Order of Odd Fellows, in Sacramento 
 City, met in the Court-house, A. M. Winn, Pres- 
 ident of the Odd Fellows Association, in the chair. 
 The chairman having explained the object of the 
 meeting, a committee of five, with proper credentials, 
 was appointed to apply to Lieutenant Fraser, D. D. 
 Grand Sire for the State of California, requesting him 
 to visit Sacramento and formally establish a lodge. 
 About the same time, the Odd Fellows, in connection 
 with the Masons, established a hospital, the board of 
 trustees being elected by both orders. A series of 
 concerts were given for the benefit of the hospital, 
 which were liberally patronized. The managers of 
 the Tehama Theatre and Rowe's Olmypic Oircus 
 also gave benefits for the same object. The follow- 
 ing card of thanks to Mr. and Mrs. E,owe and the 
 opening address delivered on the night of the 
 benefit, by its author, Francis N. McCron, were 
 published in the Transcript : 
 
 To the Editors of the Transcript : 
 
 Gentlemen: — Will you have the kindness to give pub- 
 lication to our acknowledgment of the liberal and humane 
 conduct of Mr. Rowe, as manifested in the benefit which he 
 recently gave to the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital. It 
 is due to that gentlemen and the persons composing his com- 
 pany to say, that they all refused to deduct anything from the 
 proceeds of the evening, for their own services ; and the interest 
 that this gentleman exhibited in making the house a good one 
 gives him a strong claim upon the members of these orders 
 for a liberal reciprocal patronage and support. 
 
300 THE OPENING ADDEESS. 
 
 We return Mr. and Mrs. Eowe, and all the individuals 
 composing the Olympic Circus, our sincere thanks for the 
 benefit we have received, through the efficient proceeds of 
 their house on the 16th inst. We also reiterate our thanks to 
 the gentlemen of the two papers for gratuitous advertisements. 
 Truly, yours, 
 
 J. F. MOESE, 
 
 /Secretary of Board of Trustees. 
 
 Saceamento City, May 19th, 1850. 
 Me. McCeon, Dear Sir: — The Board of Trustees of the 
 Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital, having been highly grat- 
 ified with the very appropriate and interesting address which 
 you prepared and delivered with so much felicity at their re- 
 cent benefit given them by Mr. and Mrs. Kowe, beg the favor 
 of a copy of the same for publication. 
 Yours, truly, 
 
 J. F. MOESE, 
 
 Secretary of Board of Trustees. 
 
 John F. Moese, Esq., Dear Sir : — Your kind note, in the 
 name of the Board of Trustees of the Masonic and Odd Fellows' 
 Hospital, requesting a copy of my poor address prepared and 
 delivered by me at the Pacific Theatre, on the occasion of 
 benefit in aid of the funds of above-named establishment, is 
 truly flattering. ■ Enclosed, I send a copy. And allow me to 
 remain, my dear sir, yours respectfully, 
 
 Feancis N. McCeon. 
 Sacramento City, May 18th. 
 
 OPENING ADDEESS. 
 
 Can the striped banner, or the stars of State, 
 That on the brave, or on the vicious wait. 
 Such emblems with such emphasis impart. 
 As an insignium near the Mason's heart ! 
 Hail, Sacred Masonry ! of source Divine, 
 Unerring mistress of the fiiultless Line : 
 Whose Plumb of Truth, with never-failing sway, 
 Makes the joined parts of symmetry obey. 
 
SUTTEE, LODGE, A. Y. M. 301 
 
 Hail to the craft, at whose serene command 
 
 The gentle arts in glad obedience stand ; 
 
 Whose magic stroke bids fell confusion cease, 
 
 And to the finished orders yield its place — 
 
 Who calls creation from the womb of earth, 
 
 And gives imperial cities glorious birth ! 
 
 To works of art her merits not confined, 
 
 She regulates the morals, squares the mind — 
 
 Corrects with care the tempest-working soul, 
 
 And points the tide of passions where to roll. 
 
 On Virtue's tablets marks each sacred rule, 
 
 And forms her Lodge an universal school. 
 
 Where Nature's mystic laws unfolded stand. 
 
 And sense and science joined, go hand in hand. 
 
 Oh, may her social rules instructive spread. 
 
 Till Truth erects her long-neglected head — 
 
 Till through deceitful night she darts her ray. 
 
 And beams full glorious in the blaze of day — 
 
 Till man by virtuous maxim learns to move, 
 
 Till all the peopled world her laws approve. 
 
 And the whole human race be bound in Brother's Love. 
 
 On the evening of April SOtli, "Sutter Lodge, 
 Ancient York Masons," was organized by Deputy 
 G. M. John A. Tutt, under a dispensation from the 
 Grand Lodge of California. The lodge commenced 
 with eighteen members ; among whom were the fol- 
 lowing officers : E. J. Willis, W. M. ; C. E. Thorn,, 
 S. W. ; Addison Martin, J. W. 
 
 In addition to the Masons' and Odd Fellows'' 
 Hospital, there were several private hospitals in 
 Sacramento City. Their location, the names of the 
 proprietors and tariff of prices, are fully set forth in 
 the following advertisements, published in the. 
 Transcript : 
 
302 PPvIVATE HOSPITALS. 
 
 T|R. DOWS Thomsonian Hospital 
 ■*-^ and Botanic Medicine Store, on K st., be- 
 tween 2cl and 3d. Dr. D. returns his sincere thanks to 
 his Thomsonian friends for their very liberal sux)port 
 during the last season, and will endeavor to merit its 
 continuance. Having enlarged his house, and added 
 many beds, and as he attends on patients personally, 
 he feels confident, after a practical experience of 23 
 years, he shall be able to give hia patients general 
 satisfaction. Having a large stock of medicine on 
 hand, he is prepared to supply Physicians in the mines 
 at wholesale, cheaper than any other house in Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 Price of admission to the hospital per day, is S5, S8, 
 $10, $15, $20, and $25, according to trouble and ex- 
 pense^ aplO 3m 
 
 Medical Partnership. 
 
 OCTOES T. J. WHITE and C. 
 
 D. CLEVELAND have associated them- 
 selves in the practice of Medicine, Surgery and Obstet- 
 rics, and have established an extensive Hospital, that 
 will accommodate one hundred patients, on the cor- 
 ner of Ninth and L streets; where one of the parties 
 can always be found, and the other at the counting 
 room of Paul, White & Co. 
 
 Dr. White's personal attention will, at all times, be 
 devoted to such cases as may be entrusted to his care. 
 
 apl2-3m 
 
 ijJUTTER'S FOET HOSPITAL; 
 
 ^^ inside the Fort, by Drs. James S. Martin 
 and B. E. Carman, having been thoroughly repaired, 
 is now ready for the comfortable accommodation of 
 patients. The salubrity of the location is evident to 
 every one. The Hospital being in a large adobe build- 
 ing, it is exempt from that extreme heat which is inci- 
 dent to this climate during the summer. Terms mode- 
 References— Dr. T. G. Chapman, Dr. J. B. Bridgman, 
 Dr. S. McClure, Dr. S. P. Thomas, Dr. L. A. Birdsall, 
 Dr. Deal, Dr. W. Bryarly. apl6 3m 
 
 D 
 
 Besides the foregoing, Drs. Morse and Stillman 
 ran a hospital at the corner of K and Third Streets, 
 but either professional etiquette or excessive modesty- 
 prevented them from advertising. 
 
 About the middle of May, the eliie of Sacra- 
 mento City were thrown into spasms by the follow- 
 ing marriage in high life : 
 
 Married, 
 
 On Wednesday evening, the 15th inst., by the Rev. 
 Mr. Moorhouse, WM. C. YOUNG, Esq., of this city, to 
 Miss LUCY A. BARNES, daughter of Henry Barnes, 
 Esq., of Philadelphia. 
 
A MAEEIAGE. 303' 
 
 The following editorial notice of the event ap- 
 peared in the Transcript of May 18th : 
 
 The most genteel afiair that we have as yet witnessed in 
 California, came off in this city night before last. We have 
 heretofore been inclined to yield to the ball given at San Fran- 
 cisco, in the Hall of the California Guards, the precedence 
 over all other fashionable assemblages; but the affair night 
 before last stands pre-eminently the first. There was nothing 
 like effort apparent, but all was ease and gentility. The bride 
 was dressed in white satin, trimmed with flowers. Her dark 
 hair was braided in the most elegant style, and a beautiful 
 white veil added its airy grace to her person. The bridegroom 
 was tastefully dressed in black, with white satin vest and neck- 
 erchief. The bridesmaid attracted scarcely less attention than 
 the bride. A splendid specimen bracelet, a present from the 
 bridegroom, graced her arm, and lace caught up with flowers 
 added to the beauty of her rich satin dress. The ceremony 
 was the most impressive of the kind that it has ever been our 
 good fortune to witness. The parties were married according 
 to the Episcopal ritual. They Avere impressed with the spirit 
 of the solemn act, and every response was clear, distinct and 
 heartfelt. May the Goddess of Happiness strew their pathway 
 with flowers. 
 
 The beautiful cottage, which has been an enigma for many 
 weeks to some of our citizens, is tastefully and elegantly fur- 
 nished. The music was excellent, and the merry hours sped 
 swiftly and silently away. Our sincerest wish is, that 
 
 " adown life's valley, hand in hand, 
 
 AVith grateful change of grave and merry speech, 
 Or song, their hearts unlocking each to each. 
 They'll journey onward to the silent land!" 
 
 On the 22d of April, our cotemporary, the 
 Placer Times, published by E. Gilbert & Co., and 
 edited by Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, commenced 
 
' 304 THE PLACEE TIMES. 
 
 its tri-weekly publication on Mondays, Wednesdays 
 and Saturdays, alternating with the Transcript; 
 therefore, the citizens had a newspaper on every 
 morning of the week, Sunday excepted. Colonel 
 Joseph E. Lawrence, Mr, Jesse Giles's successor in 
 the editorial management of the Times, was born 
 on Long Island, but was a resident of New Orleans 
 when the gold fever broke out in the States, and 
 emigrated from that city to California, on mule 
 back, via Mexico and Lower California. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Commercial advantages of Sacramento City — New buildings 
 — First daily issue of tlie Transcript — The Placer Times 
 follows suit — Sell my interest in the Transcript to Mr. G. C. 
 "Weld — Death of Mr. Weld — Tribute to his memory — Cap- 
 tain John A. Sutter — Sutter's Fort — Attack on the Fort by 
 the Indians — They are repulsed — Hock Farm. 
 
 Sacramento City is, at this time, in point of 
 commercial advantages and population, the second 
 city in California. Its population is variously es- 
 timated at from five to seven thousand, including 
 floating population. A year ago it contained 
 scarcely half a dozen tents and shanties, and a 
 bridle-path led from the bank of the Sacramento 
 Eiver to Sutter's Fort. 
 
 Its growth during the past ten months has been 
 almost magical. Here labor asks its own price, and 
 its beck commands capital. No chartered institu- 
 tions have monopolized the great avenues to wealth ; 
 no aristocracy, grown proud from the long posses- 
 sion of exclusive privileges, can obtain a foothold or 
 assert supremacy. Circumstances have established 
 a level, in which it is honorable to be, from which 
 every one has an equal chance to rise, and where 
 merit is the only sure guarantee of success. Neither 
 business nor capital can oppress labor in California. 
 Whenever its rights are invaded, the gulches and 
 canons that lead down the western slope of the 
 Sierra Nevada will furnish a safe retreat, where 
 
 (307) 
 
308 INDEPENDENCE AND MUTUAL DEPENDENCE. 
 
 labor will obtain a ricb reward, until its end is 
 gained and the powers that oppress it yield to 
 necessity and consent to do justice. 
 
 A general independence is observable in tbe 
 people here, which is the inevitable result of their 
 mutual relation. All classes are alike dependent 
 upon each other, and obligations are mutually in- 
 curred. The rich men of to-day were adventurers 
 yesterday. How natural, then, that they should 
 respect labor, by which they have accomplished 
 their success. Few can be found who have secured 
 a competency by their own exertions who do not 
 feel a conscious pride in acknowledging it. Labor 
 will continue to hold the first position in California. 
 Rich and exhaustless as are her natural resources, 
 they have slumbered in the bowels of the earth 
 since creation, and the world could never be ben- 
 efited by them, without the judicious application of 
 bone and muscle — the real capital of the world. 
 
 The consciousness once spread throughout the 
 people, that they can depend upon themselves with 
 safety, has forcibly acquainted them with the tre- 
 mendous strength that lies latent among them, which 
 increases in them still more the feeling of self- 
 reliance. Their opinions are heard at the corners 
 of the streets; they stand, in all their vigor, in 
 public assemblages ; and every tone of their voices 
 speaks of independence, of calm determination, and 
 of self-reliance. Those who have immigrated here 
 are, in most cases, the cream of the populace, A 
 manly, vigorous, intelligent race of freemen, capa- 
 ble of meeting any emergency, have seized upon the 
 
COMMEKCIAL ADVANTAGES. 309 
 
 hills and valleys, and California will, in less than 
 five years' time, make herself felt among the nations 
 of the world, either directly as a free land, or indi- 
 rectly hy her stern independence of feeling. Her 
 voice will be respected, her decision will be looked 
 for. She is the most practical of communities ; and 
 yet there is genius here. The pale-faced poet has 
 stolen in upon us, and now and then, amid the din 
 of building towns, his fine strain is heard. The 
 painter, the musician, the artist — all are here. 
 Stern life brings them down to the practical, but 
 they are here, and will, in time, make themselves 
 felt. Female society will be here soon, and then 
 what more can be asked for? It is not strange, 
 then, that this feeling of self-reliance should be so 
 strong and broadcast in the land. With a country 
 so rich in resources ; so blest in a people to man- 
 age it, the future destiny of California is one of 
 the sublimest subjects for contemplation that can be 
 presented to the mind. 
 
 The rapidly-increasing commerce of Sacramento 
 City jDresents the strongest reasons for inaking it a 
 port of entry. It is situated at the head of ship- 
 navigation on the Sacramento River. A few miles 
 above the city a bar stretches across the river, and 
 the water from that point up is so shoal as to be 
 navigable only by steamboats and vessels of light 
 draft. From Sacramento City down to the Bay of 
 San Francisco, navigation is unobstructed. At the 
 very lowest stages of the water last summer and fall, 
 vessels came up to Sacramento drawing ten feet and 
 a half of water. The bark Undine came up late in 
 
310 THE FINE LEVEE OF SACRAMENTO. 
 
 August last drawing ten feet. The bark Ann Welsh, 
 390 tons, came up last October, drawing ten feet, 
 and the bark Strafford, lying at the Levee as a 
 prison-skip for the city, came up in September last, 
 drawing ten feet and seven inches of water. The 
 latter is 314 tons, custom-house measurement, and 
 has a capacity of 6,000 barrels. Sacramento has an 
 excellent Levee, alongside of which ships can lie 
 with safety, and upon which they can discharge their 
 cargoes without the expense of lightering. When 
 the rivers are at their very lowest point, the water 
 immediately alongside of Front Street and the Levee 
 of the American River is from two and one-half to 
 three fathoms deep. The river in front of the city 
 is a quarter of a mile wide, giving ample room for 
 the working of vessels. The Levee for a mile along 
 Front Street is lined with vessels, and in some places 
 they are two deep. They number upwards of twenty 
 ships and barks, and thirty brigs. There are also 
 a large number of schooners and other small craft. 
 The distance from San Francisco is 104 miles. Ves- 
 sels have come up from the bay in twenty-four hours, 
 and the passage, at the longest, seldom exceeds four 
 days. In a short time steam-tugs will ply on the 
 river. 
 
 Sacramento is not only at the head of ship-navi- 
 gation, but it is the natural metropolis for the rich 
 and extensive mines of the north, south and middle 
 forks, Yuba, Feather and Bear Rivers, Deer Creek, 
 Cosumne, Dry Creek and the Upper Sacramento, 
 together with all the dry-diggings contiguous. From 
 this extensive section of the mining country, excellent 
 
IMPBOVEMENTS IN THE CITY. 313 
 
 roads, in tlie dry season, converge to Sacramento 
 City as the nearest and by far tlie greatest entrepot 
 and depot. Along these roads hundreds of teams 
 toil daily, supplying this vast mining region with 
 provisions, clothing and other necessary articles of 
 consumption. To supply the Sacramento market, 
 which is thus continually drained, steamers and 
 vessels of heavy burden arrive daily from San Fran- 
 cisco, in which merchandise, after having been dis- 
 charged there, is reshipped to Sacramento City. 
 Already have two hundred vessels cleared from the 
 States for Sacramento City direct ; and the advan- 
 tages of this move are apparent from the fact that 
 the. cost of reshipment from San Francisco to Sac- 
 ramento exceeds, to a considerable amount, that of 
 shipment from New York to San Francisco. 
 
 While the work on the Levee was progressing, 
 improvements were going on rapidly on Second and 
 J Streets. The former street has undergone an 
 almost complete metamorphosis. A number- of 
 large and well-constructed buildings are completed, 
 or rapidly approaching that point — buildings, tasty 
 and handsome in their outward appearance, and 
 well calculated to ornament the city. Above J 
 Street, there are four buildings of this description. 
 A new building on the corner above the theatre, 
 owned by Lee & Cornwall, designed for the post- 
 office, is nearly finished, and stands in agreeable 
 contrast to the ruin of the old adobe opposite ; 
 showing how rapidly the customs of our own race 
 are doing away with those of the former occupants 
 of the soil. The Tehama Theatre needs only a 
 
314 BUILDING THE OKDEB, OF THE DAY, 
 
 little outside polish to give it an imposing appear- 
 ance. A little nearer J Street, two other two-story 
 houses, also owned by Lee & Cornwall, have arisen 
 within a few days. Crossing J Street, between the 
 office of the Transcript and the fine brick building, 
 corner of J and Second Streets, a splendid three- 
 story structure, fronting forty-five feet on Second 
 Street, is nearly completed. A few steps further 
 down, on the ojDposite side of the street, two large 
 two-story buildings will be completed in a few days. 
 A little further down the street, is the cottage of 
 Mr. William C. Young, nearly ready for occupancy. 
 J Street is also making rapid strides in improve- 
 ments of various kinds. Through its whole length 
 may be seen the most gratifying evidences of the 
 energy and enterjarise of its merchants. Besides 
 the general improvements going on, in putting up 
 new fronts, awnings and sidewalks, twelve new 
 buildings are being constructed. Ten of these build- 
 ings are two and a half stories high, fronting from 
 twenty to thirty-five feet on J Street, and running 
 back from forty to sixty feet. It is now a settled 
 fact, that the day for doing successful business in the 
 open air or in canvas tents, has gone by, and con- 
 sequently no one thinks of putting up a new build- 
 ing that is not of a character to confer credit on the 
 city. One of the finest buildings in California, in 
 respect to dimensions and architecture, is going up 
 between Second and Third Streets, adjoining the 
 Humboldt. It is forty feet front by one hundred 
 and twenty-five feet deep, and two stories high. 
 The whole lower story will constitute a single saloon, 
 
TWO "dailies" in sackamento. 315 
 
 througli the" centre of whicli, at short intervals, are 
 massive pillars to support the ceiling. The entire 
 second story is designed for a dancing hall, and it 
 will surpass anything of the kind in California. 
 K Street is also beginning to show signs of improve- 
 ment. The proprietors of the Transcript have 
 purchased a lot on this street, above Second, on 
 which they are erecting a fire-proof brick building, 
 two stories high, to wliich they will remove their 
 office on the 1st of July. 
 
 On the first day of June, the Transcript began 
 its daily publication, with the following editorial 
 announcement : 
 
 Such is the size of Sacramento City, and such has hecome 
 its importance as a commercial mart, that we feel it to be due 
 to the public, due to our patrons, due to ourselves, as the con- 
 ductors of a public enterprise, no longer to remain stationary, 
 while all else around us is improving in a truly liberal and 
 energetic manner. Newspapers are looked to as an index by 
 which the importance of the localities they represent may be 
 judged. Since we could no longer do justice to the public as 
 chroniclers of passing events, we have decided to commence 
 with this number the issue of the " Daily Sacramento Tran- 
 script," the first daily newspaper in California out of San 
 Francisco. When we remember that it is not yet five months 
 since the first daily paper was established in California, it will 
 be seen that Sacramento City is not far behind, if she did start 
 after the race was well begun elsewhere. 
 
 Ten days later, June 10th, the Transcript's co- 
 temporary, the Placer Times, came out daily in a 
 new typographical dress. 
 
 On the first day of July, I sold my interest in 
 
 18 
 
316 DEATH OF GILBERT C. WELD. 
 
 the Transcript to Mr. Gilbert C. Weld, California 
 correspondent of the New York Journal of Com- 
 merce; and on the same day the proprietors of 
 that journal moved into their new fire-proof brick 
 building on K Street above Second. Although 
 having no pecuniary interest in the Transcrijjt, I 
 remained in charge of the business department of 
 the paper until the latter part of August. Soon 
 after purchasing my interest in the Transcript, 
 Mr. Weld was prostrated by an attack of typhoid 
 fever. He was for a few days an inmate of Drs. 
 Morse & Stillman's hospital, but was subsequently 
 removed to a private boarding-house, kept by a 
 Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich, on K Street near Fifth, 
 where, despite the best medical treatment that could 
 be procured and careful nursing, he passed from 
 earth to that bourn whence no traveler returns, on 
 the evening of the 9th of August. Mr. Weld was 
 a ready and graceful writer and a man of decided 
 genius. Had he lived, he would have made a 
 shining mark in California journalism. The Tran- 
 script of August 10th was published with inverted 
 column-rules, drajoed in mourning, with the follow- 
 ing obituary of the deceased, written by Mr. F. C. 
 Ewer: 
 
 This morning a melancholy duty devolves upon us. Death 
 has snatched from our midst one who, though newly come 
 among us, had endeared himself to our hearts as a brother. 
 It is the fairest flower of our garden that is plucked. A voice 
 that we listened to for instruction, that cheered us through 
 the trying hours, that joined with us in our mirth, that was 
 full of wisdom and of love, and consolation and hope, is hushed 
 
A TEIBTJTE TO HIS "WOETH. 317 
 
 forever. Oli, how will kindred hearts, in a land that is far away, 
 be wrung with anguish ! By our side are the miniatures of his 
 beautiful wife and three lovely children, whose hearts must 
 soon feel the keen pangs known only to the widow and the 
 orphan. A lovely daughter passed away but a few months 
 since, and nearly broke the heart of the solitary father. Now 
 he has gone to meet her. The intelligence of his bereavement 
 cast a gloom over his silent moments which it was impossible 
 to shake off. It was in one of these spells that his soul burst 
 forth, as if by inspiration, in the following gush of feeling ; 
 
 " Thy last sweet letter, treasured as a prize, 
 I daily read, and think of thee, dear Mary ; 
 Of all thy beauties, all thy virtues rare. 
 Thy lustrous, bright blue eyes, thy golden tresses. 
 Thy matchless features, and thy seraph voice. 
 Thy tender, loving, sympathizing heart — 
 I think of these, and thousand other graces, 
 And then my stubborn will, prone to rebel. 
 Curses the hand which laid thee low in death, 
 And robbed thy father of his choicest blessing ! 
 But thou art gone ! Why should I wish thee back ? 
 Thy sufferings are ended — thou art saved ! 
 Saved from the sins, the sufferings of earth, 
 The woes, the griefs which rack thy father's heart ; 
 Freed from temptation, trouble, care and pain ! 
 Saved with a full salvation, rich and free ; 
 Boundless as God's benevolence can give. 
 And lasting as the Giver. 
 
 " O my soul ! 
 Cease thy rebellings ! God has taken my child 
 From ills to come. "What seems to thee a curse 
 Is blessing in disguise. Assuage thy grief. 
 For He who caused the stroke ' doeth all things well I' 
 
 " 'Tis done ! The bitterness of woe is past — 
 My grief is o'er — my tears shall cease to flow 1 
 And when my spirit sinks, in days to come, 
 
318 CAPTAIN JOHN A. STJTTEK. 
 
 And gloom, like winter, settles o'er my soul. 
 Thy mem'ry, Mary, and the blessed thought 
 That thou art happier far than him bereaved, 
 Will light the gloom, dispel the gathering storm. 
 And leave the fountain in my troubled breast 
 As peaceful as the hill-girt lake in summer. 
 Oh ! I will live, my child, as one who hopes 
 To meet thee in a brighter, better world !" 
 
 For versatility of talent, for brilliancy of thought, for se- 
 renity of disposition, for genial, social feeling, Mr. Weld was 
 rarely equaled. He was a man who won upon the affections 
 mysteriously, and he had not an acquaintance that was not his 
 friend. The career before him was brilliant. His writings 
 were graceful, filled with the play of lively fancy, and illu- 
 mined by the light of a brilliant imagination. They had 
 gained for him an enviable fame ; but the withering blast of 
 disease came o'er him, and the high anticipations of his friends 
 were blighted. His death was as his life, serene and hopeful. 
 He sank as sinks the star, silent, uncomplaining, beautiful. 
 The hearts of his many friends will be touched with grief; the 
 spirit of his beloved wife will be bowed under the heavy be- 
 reavement ; the tears of his sweet little children will flow as 
 they remember his parting kiss. But the star, though set, is 
 shining still in the heavens. He was a devoted Christian, and 
 unaffectedly pious. He breathed his last at about nine o'clock 
 last evening, " at peace with God and the world." 
 
 Captain Joiin A. Sutter, tlie first white man who 
 settled at New Helvetia, now Sacramento City, 
 came overland from Jackson County, Missouri, in 
 1838-9. At that time the country was the abode 
 of savages and wild beasts. 'Here, in this distant 
 and secluded dejjendency of imbecile Mexico, he 
 determined to rear the standard of American free- 
 dom. Such was the intention and feeling of this 
 
HIS ENTEEPKISE AND DAEING. 321 
 
 veteran soldier, when he conceived the idea of 
 uniting this land of gold, the link between Asia and 
 America, completing a commercial chain, now en- 
 compassing the whole world. The privations, hard- 
 ships, mental anxiety and peril, necessarily encount- 
 ered by Captain Sutter, during this long period, 
 cannot be adequately depicted. Eepeatedly the 
 savage foe, under various pretexts, sought his life ; 
 and to good judgment, promptness and energy, does 
 he owe his continued existence. At one time, while 
 conversing with a friend in the fort, at a late hour 
 of the night, a sudden noise burst upon their ears. 
 The savages had entered the walls of the fort. 
 The Captain and his friends were saved by a faith- 
 ful dog, that suddenly sprang at the throats of the 
 intruders and felled them, one by one, to the 
 ground, until several were dangerously wounded 
 and the rest fled. The wounded Indians confessed 
 the plot. 
 
 Captain Sutter has vacated the fort at Sacramento, 
 removed to Hock Farm and turned his attention to 
 farming. This farm is situated on a high and 
 beautiful plain, on the Feather River, about 8 miles 
 below Yuba City, and comprises about six hundred 
 acres, around which a deep ditch has been dug. 
 Near the bank of the river, and close to the steam- 
 boat landing, stand the residence and outbuildings 
 of Captain Sutter. Above and below these are 
 large gardens, which, in their appearance, give the 
 best possible evidence that California is not alto- 
 gether the barren, unproductive region it is some- 
 times reported. The hardy pioneer who owns this 
 
322 HOCK FAEM. 
 
 place lias heard the unfavorable report, concerning 
 his adopted home, and he is laboring to show all 
 "who are open to conviction that the earth, even in 
 California, will reward the husbandman for his toil. 
 He is sanguine of success, and has good reasons for 
 his expectations. A large variety of vegetables are 
 in a flourishing state, while of radishes, lettuce, 
 onions and beets, he has enough and to spare. 
 Nearly every steamboat that touches at Hock Farm 
 brings away a choice variety of the products of his 
 gardens to regale his friends at a distance. Back of 
 these gardens are large fields of wheat, and to see 
 them is all that is necessary to convince the beholder 
 of the adaptation of the soil and climate to the pro- 
 duction of this important article of consumption. 
 Here, in one field, are eighty acres, and in the best 
 grain sections of the States it would be diflScult to 
 find a more even and healthy-looking croj). Indian 
 corn is also receiving attention here, but thus far its 
 appearance is not very flattering. A space of about 
 half an acre has been thickly planted with a choice 
 variety of the grape, and the shoots appear from 
 almost every scion, giving the most encouraging 
 hopes of a successful cultivation of the vine. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter — 
 Full report of the afikir — Letter from Thomas O. Larkin — 
 Mr. Francis D. Clark and others resolve that one man is as 
 good as another, provided he behaves himself — The glorious 
 Fourth — Its first celebration in Sacramento City — " The 
 Ancient Order of Bricks" and the Sons of Temperance 
 publish their programmes of exercises — A jolly Fourth of 
 July. 
 
 On June 2d, Captain Sutter gave a grand enter- 
 tainment at Hock Farm, to which about one hun- 
 dred ladies and gentlemen from Sacramento City 
 were invited. The following report of the affair 
 appeared in the Transcript two days afterward : 
 
 Day before yesterday we found ourselves in the midst of a 
 delightful party of about one hundred ladies and gentlemen on 
 board of the Governor Dana. The steamer left the foot of K 
 Street about half-past eight, A. M. Hundreds of spectators 
 stood upon the Levee and on the neighboring vessels watching 
 her departure. The band was playing on the upper deck ; the 
 ladies and gentlemen were collected under the awnings ; her 
 flags were flying ; the sun was shining brightly, while at the 
 same time a cool breeze was blowing ; in short, everything 
 augured a pleasant time. There were two things that could be 
 depended upon : No rough weather was to be looked for, to 
 discompose the placidity of a hundred breakfasts and cause 
 " noise, confusion," etc., and no fears were to be entertained 
 that a rain-storm would come up to mar the pleasure of the 
 occasion. The crowd on board were congenial to each other,, 
 and commenced forthwith to enjoy themselves by taking the 
 
 (323) 
 
324 SUTTEE ENTEETAINS AT HOCK FAEM. 
 
 proper preparatory steps. The steamer darted swiftly up the 
 river, leaving Sacramento behind, and carrying away from it 
 a hundred happy hearts. The usual amusing small-talk on 
 those highly important subjects, " charming day," " exquisite 
 weather," etc., passed between certain of the ladies and gentle- 
 men, leaving behind a strikingly apparent and a semi-serio- 
 comic dearth of other matter, while the ladies looked at the 
 opposite bank of the river in the interim, and the gentlemen 
 stood with smiling countenances and glistening eyes all ready 
 to listen to any subject that any one in the vicinity might 
 suggest. Meanwhile others, the older and more sedate, were 
 exhausting the weightier topics of " invigorating breezes " and 
 the distant Sierra Nevada. Editors were asked the latest 
 news ; physicians answered learnedly interrogatories as to the 
 state of health in the Sacramento Valley ; the squatter ques- 
 tion was discussed, and the wrongs suffered by California were 
 not forgotten. The crowd soon become acquainted with each 
 other, and these merry meetings warm the heart and draw the 
 mind away from the sternness of business and expand the 
 social feeling. 
 
 The Governor Dana is an excellent boat. The river was 
 placid and she steamed swiftly up, now grazing one bank of the 
 winding stream and now passing under the shade of the trees upon 
 the other. Fremont was soon reached. The towns-people were 
 down to see the landing. The American flag was flying from 
 the pole on the Levee, and the music of the band was heard 
 in the interval between the cheers which, as we touched the 
 Levee, arose from those who had come out to welcome us to 
 their town. After a reinforcement of ladies and gentlemen 
 from Fremont had stepped on board, we left and touched at 
 the opposite town of Vernon. Then striking from Sacramento 
 into the Feather, we wended our rapid way to Nicholaus. 
 Eberhardt was ready to receive the guests, who dined at his 
 -excellent hotel. 
 
 The next place we stopped at was Plumas. This town 
 flourishes finely, having grown up since our last trip to Marys- 
 ■ville, some two months ago. 
 
 After passing the steamers Martha Jane and Linda on their 
 
TEIP UP THE SACRAMENTO. 325 
 
 way from Marysville to Sacramento, both of which we saluted, 
 we reached Hock Farm, where the great pioneer of California 
 stood upon the bank to receive us. 
 
 The arrival at this place was one of the most interesting 
 parts of the trip. As we rounded into sight, our coming was 
 announced by the blowing of the whistle. This was responded 
 to by the firing of cannon on the bank of the river in front of 
 Captain Sutter's house. Amid the echoes, our band struck up 
 " Hail Columbia," and as we neared, another report from the 
 cannon was responded to by the crowd upon our deck, who raised 
 nine hearty cheers for the inmates of Hock Farm. Captain 
 Sutter and his family came forth from the house and down to 
 the edge of the bank. One more report from the cannon and 
 the plank was thrown to the shore, and the crowd poured out 
 of the boat, as this was their place of destination. Captain 
 Sutter, after recognizing his old acquaintances in his usual 
 cordial manner, stepped back into the spacious inclosure in 
 front of his house, where he received his friends and was 
 introduced to his other guests. 
 
 The Indians who stood in crowds upon the bank were thunder- 
 struck, not less with the whole scene than with the music from 
 the band. Captain Sutter informed us that this was the first 
 time they had heard anything of the kind. A long table was 
 set in the shade in front of the house, loaded with the delicacies 
 of the season. The company seated themselves under the 
 direction of General Winn, the agent of Captain Sutter, who 
 had previously been appointed by the company Master of 
 Ceremonies. Captain Sutter and family took seats at the 
 centre of the long table ; the ladies sat at his right and left ; 
 General Winn sat at one end, and the rest of the company 
 seated themselves promiscuously at the table. The time was 
 passed very sociably and at last the regular toasts came off. 
 The first was drunk by the whole company, standing, it was — 
 
 1. To Mrs. Sutter. Captain Sutter responded on behalf of 
 his lady and gave — 
 
 2. A hearty welcome to the ladies and gentlemen at Hock 
 Farm. 
 
 Music, " Hail Columbia." 
 
326 THE TOASTS. 
 
 After a pleasant little talk by whicii the Master of Cere- 
 monies brought the company to order, the following toasts, 
 which have been handed to us by the Secretary, were then 
 given : 
 
 3. By Mr. Stephens — Captain Sutter first. Captain Sutter 
 last. 
 
 4. By Mr. Morrill— To the ladies of California ! God bless 
 them. 
 
 5. By Mr. Johnson — Miss Sutter. 
 
 6. By Mr. Pendrick — To the welfare of California and Hock 
 Farm. 
 
 7. By Mr. Hamilton— John A. Sutter, the Pioneer of Cal- 
 ifornia. 
 
 8. By Mr. L. E. Boren — May the despots of all nations be 
 dethroned and Republicanism be triumphant. 
 
 9. By Mr. Gore — Captain Sutter ; his hospitality will always 
 be imprinted on our hearts and never forgotten. 
 
 10. By Mr. W. E. Moody — Hock Farm, the remembrance 
 of which will always cause our hearts to be warm. 
 
 11. By General Winn — The World, may it all be Re- 
 publican. 
 
 Two toasts were then given — one to our host and hostess 
 and the other to the Captain of the Governor Dana. 
 
 C. H. Pierson then rose and gave — To our absent mothers 
 and fathers, wives and children. 
 
 Bachelors and maidens all arose and drank heartily to this 
 toast. 
 
 Mr. Sweezy then gave a toast which he read from a piece of 
 paper. We were unable to procure it subsequently. We 
 regret this as it was an excellent one. 
 
 A gentleman then arose in behalf of Miss F., of Yuba City, 
 and gave — May all proprietors be as agreeable toward the 
 ladies as the proprietors of Veazie City. 
 
 General Winn then gave a toast, which, if the Secretary 
 understood correctly, was — May the charity of Californians 
 equal the charitable feelings of Captain Sutter. 
 
 17. By a lady — Captain Sutter : the man who taught the 
 Digger Indians how to dig ! 
 
THE EETUKN. 327 
 
 18. Mr. Wilder proposed Sacramento. 
 
 19. By General Winn — California, may it be settled by 
 those who have daughters and sons willing to enjoy themselves 
 in this country I 
 
 This was a toast which breathed the spirit of a true Califor- 
 nian, who has set the example of his precept. 
 
 20. His eldest daughter then gave — To absent friends ! 
 
 21. Mr. Buscara of China — The friends of Captain Sutter! 
 
 22. By George W. Tyler — Captain Sutter and California — 
 the fame of the former is world-wide and inseparably connected 
 with the latter ! 
 
 The following was given by a gentleman, name unknown — 
 The Beauties of California, the wild flowers and the tame 
 
 Colonel Grant was called upon and gave — Brigadier-General 
 Winn, a brave and good soldier ; may he, in his march through 
 life, never be in want of good pay and plenty of rations. 
 
 Mr. Rust gave — The reunion of the family of Captain Sutter. 
 
 Mrs. Winn gave, through her husband — To the ladies now 
 on their way to California. 
 
 Mr. Latson gave — ^To Peter H. Burnett, the first American 
 Governor of California. 
 
 After it had been moved and carried by acclamation, " that 
 the thanks of the company be given to Captain Sutter for his 
 princely hospitality," the party adjourned. About half-past 
 six the company took their leave, delighted with the hospitable 
 treatment they had received ; and, after giving nine cheers for 
 Hock Farm, the boat pushed from the shore. The band 
 struck up " Yankee Doodle," and we wended our way back to 
 Sacramento. 
 
 The distance up and back was about 130 miles. The speed 
 of the Governor Dana can be judged somewhat by this. 
 
 We are confident that we echo the feelings of every one 
 present when we say that it will be long before the pleasure- 
 trip to Hock Farm will be efiaced from our memories. 
 
 In the month of July the proprietors of the Tran- 
 script received the following letter from Mr. Thomas 
 
328 A SHOET BUT CAPITAI; LETTER. 
 
 O. Larkin, for many years American Consul at 
 Monterey. Mr. Larkin's letter is copied in order 
 to show how a Californian feels when he visits the 
 States, after becoming fairly attached to the country 
 of his adoption : 
 
 Ieving House, New Yoek, May 27t]i, 1850. 
 
 Messes. Pitch, Upham & Co., Sacramento, California, 
 Gentlemen: — By favor of Mr. Cornwall, I am in possession of 
 your Sacramento Transcript. There is no improvement in 
 California that pleases me more than the issuing of another 
 newspaper in that young and advancing State. I owe much 
 to California, and my last breath shall be spent in that ac- 
 knowledgment. That myself and wife might visit the land of 
 our birth, after eighteen years' absence, caused me to leave 
 that country ; and the education of the first children born 
 there of United States' parents — rather of United States 
 mother* — causes us to remain here for the present. 
 
 Please put me down on your list as a subscriber — direct to 
 New York. I am, with much respect, 
 
 Thomas 0. Laekin. 
 
 A strong prejudice against foreign miners existed 
 throughout the northern and southern mines. Most 
 Americans seemed to think that a foreigner had no 
 rights which they were bound to respect. The 
 inhabitants of Georgetown seemed to think differ- 
 ently, as will be seen by the following resolutions 
 unanimously adopted at a public meeting, and 
 signed by Francis D. Clark, Chairman, and others: 
 
 1. Resolved, That all men shall have permission to live in this 
 camp, without being in any way molested. 
 
 * There were many of foreign fathers and California mothers. , 
 
PEEPAKING FOK THE FOUKTH. 329 
 
 2. Resolved, That the civil law shall be sustained, and that 
 all those under the civil law shall be supported. 
 
 3. Besolved, That two hundred and fifty copies of these 
 resolutions be printed in English and Spanish, and distributed 
 through the various diggings. 
 
 Feancis D. Claek, Chairman. 
 John Powers, E. Montgomery, 
 
 William Turner, T. Jefferson Wells, 
 
 William B. McElvoy, John F. Worth, 
 
 p. courtrell, a. turner, 
 
 Georgetown, Tuolumne County. 
 
 During the month of June, the citizens of Sacra- 
 mento City became very patriotic and set about 
 devising means to celebrate the " Glorious Fourth " 
 in a becoming manner. The "Ancient and Honor- 
 able Order of Bricks " held a meeting and promul- 
 gated the following order of exercises : 
 
 At a meeting of the Ancient and Independent Order of 
 " Bricks," held at the City Hotel, in Sacramento City, June 
 12th, 1850, ofiicers present : A. M. Winn, Brigadier-General, 
 President ; Frank Bates, Esq., Vice-President ; George Mc- 
 Kinstry and J. Bawden, Secretaries. The officers being seated, 
 and the meeting organized, on motion, 
 
 1st. It was Resolved, That we will celebrate the 4th day 
 of July next in an appropriate manner ; and for this purpose 
 Captain J. A. Sutter and all other '• Bricks " be requested to 
 attend. 
 
 2d. It was Resolved, That one gun for each State be fired 
 from Sacramento City, Sutter and Sutter's Fort, at sunrise, 
 and that the American flag be hoisted at each place. 
 
 3d. It was Resolved, That Captain Sutter and his old Cali- 
 fornia friends be invited to attend, and head the procession. 
 
 4th. It was Resolved, That the celebration nf the 4th of July 
 should be public and free to all, and that the ladies be invited 
 to attend. 
 
330 PKEIilMISTAKY KESOLVES. 
 
 5th. It was Resolved, That a Barbecue and Bear Dance be 
 provided for the occasion. 
 
 6th. It was Resolved, That forty managers be nominated to 
 superintend the celebration of the 4th of July. 
 
 7th. It was Resolved, That the Ancient Order of Free 
 Masons, the Order of Odd Fellows, the Municipal Authorities 
 of San Francisco and Sacramento City, and the Military and 
 Fire Companies, the Sons of Temperance, and other benevolent 
 institutions of Sacramento City, be invited to attend. 
 
 8th. It was Resolved, That the Attorney-General be re- 
 quested to deliver the oration, and that Geo. McKinstry, Esq., 
 read the Declaration of Independence. 
 
 9th. It was Resolved, That the Governor and his staff, the 
 Major-General and Brigadier-Generals and their staffs of this 
 division, be also requested to attend. 
 
 10th. It was Resolved, That Captain Sutter be added to the 
 list of Managers, and that his name be placed at the head of 
 the list. 
 
 11th. It was Resolved, That the captains of vessels in port 
 be requested to hoist their flags at sunrise, and that they and 
 their crews be invited to attend the procession in a body. 
 
 And then, according to the resolutions adopted, the following 
 gentlemen were appointed Managers : Captain J. A. Sutter, 
 Hock Farm ; His Excellency, P. H. Burnett, Governor ; J. 
 McDougall, Lt. Governor ; Maj. Gen. T. J. Green, Brig. Gen. 
 Eastland, Brig. Gen. A. M. Winn, Col. H. E. Robinson, J. P. 
 Rodgers, Maj. J. S. Fowler, Maj. Murray Morrison, Maj. N. E. 
 Latson, Maj. J. P. Hughes, Maj. W. Bryarley, Maj. T. Emory, 
 Col. G. A. Grant, Capt. W. E. Shannon, Lt. A. H. Barber, 
 Capt. Hammersley, Maj. Justus McKinstry, Maj. P. B. Read- 
 ing, Maj. Snowden, Hon. S. C. Hastings, Hon. H. Bigelow, 
 Hon. J. Bigler, Hon. E. O. Crosby, Dr. T. J. White, Mr. D. 
 Strong, Mr. J. McDowell, Hon. J. L. Thom-as, Hon. B. F. 
 Washington, Hon. C. E. Lackland, Hon. E. J. Willis, Dr. 
 Frank Bates, Mr. Geo. McKinstry, Mr. Saml. Norris, Mr. J. 
 W. Hastings, Mr. Wm. Dowlin, Mr. J. Bowden, Mr. Samuel 
 Brannan, Hon. T. J. Henley, Mr. Barton Lee. 
 
 On motion, it was Resolved, That the Managers be re- 
 
"WHICH WERE NOT CAEEIED OUT. 331 
 
 quested to meet at the City Hotel, on "Wednesday next, the 
 19th inst., at seven P. M. 
 
 Resolved, That the Editors of the Placer Times and Sacra- 
 mento Transcript be requested to publish these proceedings. 
 Signed: A. M. WINN, President. 
 
 FEANK BATES, Vice Pres. 
 Signed : 
 
 Geo. McKinstey, ] p i • 
 
 ' > Secretaries. 
 Joseph Ba"wden, ) 
 
 For some unexplained reason, tlie adjourned 
 meeting of the "Bricks" did not take place, and 
 only two of the schemes for celebrating the Fourth 
 of July were carried out — that of the Sons of Tem- 
 perance and the celebration at Brighton, on the 
 south bank of the American River, about five miles 
 from Sacramento City. The first Fourth of July 
 celebration in Sacramento City passed off in a blaze 
 of glory, in accordance with the following pro- 
 grammes, and the participants were happy : 
 
 Fourth of Jnly Celebration, 
 
 AT THE PAVILION, BRIGHTON. 
 
 OSDER OF EXEJRCISES. 
 
 i3®^ Under the direction of Major A. C. Latson, one gun for each state "will be 
 fired, commencing at sunrise. 
 
 On tlie arrival of tlie procession from Sacramento, the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence will tie read by George McKinstry, Esq., and an oration by Col. E. J. C. 
 Kewen ; after -which a splendid Dinner will be served at the Pavilion for as many 
 as desire to partake. In the evening a splendid BaU Soiree and supper will be 
 given in the spacious saloon. 
 
 The Pavilion is unsurpassed by any public house in this country, furnishing 
 ample accommodations for all ; private rooms for families, newly furnished, and 
 the whole house fitted for the comfort of regular or transient visitors. 
 
 A band of music will be in attendance during the day and evening. 
 
 The ball soiree will be under the direction of the following gentlemen : 
 
 Honorary Managers, 
 Capt. J. A. Sutter, 
 Hon. Hardin Bigelow, 
 Gen. A. M. Winn, 
 Col. J. B. Starr, 
 
 D. G. Whitney, Esq., 
 Geo. McKinstry, " 
 
 E. D. Merrill, 
 Barker Burnell, " 
 
 J. K. Hardenbergh, Esq., 
 J. A Haines, Esq., 
 J. W. Winans, " 
 
 Acting Managei'S. 
 Col. E. J. C. Kewen, 
 F. C. Ewer, Esq., 
 Dr. W. Bryarly, 
 J. E. Lawrence, Esq., 
 Hon. C. C. Sackett, 
 J. Sherwood, Esq., 
 A. C. Monson, " 
 Col. T. A. Warbass, 
 Maj. J P. Hughes, 
 Col. John S. Fowler, 
 Col. H. E. Robinson. 
 
 .^g^ Omnibuses will run from Sacramento to the PaviLion at all hours of the 
 day. jy2-3t 
 
.} 
 
 66Z FOURTH OF JULY PKOGKAMMES. 
 
 Foarth of July. 
 
 ;8®" At a meeting of the Pacific Star Division No. 1, of the Order of the Sons of 
 Temperance, held at their Hall on J street, June 20th, 1850, it was unanimously 
 agreed to celebrate the coming Anniversary of our Nation's Independence, as an 
 " Order," in connection with the citizens of Sacramento City generally. 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 The exercises wOl open at 10, a. m., in a suitable room— due notice will be given 
 hereafter. 
 1st. Music— a National Air. 
 
 2d. Reading the Declaration of Independence— Hon. E. J. Willis, reader. 
 3d. llusic. 
 
 4th. Oration— J. C. Zabriskie, Esq., orator. 
 5th. Music— Hail Columbia. 
 
 At 12, M., the procession, under the direction of Benl. B. Nickerson, Esq., Mar- 
 shal, and tivo assistants, will move to the river, and, after a short excursion 
 thereon, will proceed to the house of Capt. Coon, where a collation will be served 
 up expressly for the occasion. After the cloth is removed, there will be addresses, 
 toasts, &c. 
 
 The Mayor, Common Council, and citizens generally, are respectfully invited 
 to participate in the exercises. 
 A good band of music will be secured for the occasion. 
 
 By order of the Committee op Aeeangements. 
 
 N. B. Col . Zabriskie has consented at this late hour to prepare an Oration for 
 the occasion, in consequence of the decease of the Eev. Mr. KaUoch, who had 
 
 previously been engaged. je25 tf 
 
 Bkigade Head QtiAETEES, 
 2d Brig. 1st Div. C, M. 
 Sacramento City, June 29th, 1S50. 
 ORDERS NO. 2. 
 
 Our Nation's birthday will be celebrated throughout this Brigade on next 
 Thursday, the 4tli day of July. 
 One gun for each State will be fired. 
 From Sutter's Fort, by Maj. W. Bryarly. 
 " Brighton, by Maj. A. C. Latson. 
 " Norristown, by Capt. Sam'l Norris. 
 " Sutter, by Maj. L.W.Hastings. 
 " , Sac. City, by Maj. John P. Rodgers. 
 The first gun will be fired at sunrise, when the flags at each of these points, as 
 well as the flags of the shipping in port; will be hoisted. Music — " Hail Columbia.". 
 Immediately after each regular round and simultaneous with each gun at 
 Sacramento Citv, the shipping will fire their guns. 
 
 A salute of thirteen guns will be fired for Capt. John A. Sutter, from Sutter's 
 Fort, at 12 o'clock, under the superintendence of Maj. John S. Fowler. 
 
 The members of the staff, and these intending to take part in the morning 
 celebration, will meet at the City Hotel at 8 o'clock, on the evening of the 3d of 
 July. 
 
 Capt. Sutter, his old California friends, and the Brigadier General and staff will 
 join the general procession at half past 11 o'clock. 
 
 By order of Brig. General A. M. WINN, 
 jy2 John S. Fowlee, Aid. 
 
 Fourth of J'aly. 
 
 JS®" An Oration will be delivered and a cold collation served up at Washington, 
 opposite Sacramento City, on the Fourth of July, at the spacious Hall of Capt. M. 
 T. Coon. 
 
 The Pacific Star Division Sons of Temperance, No. 1, will be present. The 
 citizens of Sacramento, Fremont, Marysville,Yuba City, Eliza and Nicholaus, are 
 particularly invited. A steamer will leave Marysville at an early hour on the 
 morning of the 4th, to arrive at Washington in time for the festivities of the day. 
 
 Programme: 1st. A salute of thirteen guns wiU be fired at sunrise, when the 
 stars and stripes will be unfurled to the breeze. 
 
 2d. At 12 o'clock, M., a salute of thirteen guns, when the Sons of Temperance 
 will embark from Sacramento City, and on their arrival will be escorted to the 
 dining hall, by the citizens of Washington and visitors. _ 
 
 3d. The exercises will commence at 3 o'clock, P. M., with 
 
 1st. Music. 
 
 2d. Reading of the Declaration of Independence, by Dr. H. A. Weeks, of Fre- 
 mont. 
 
 3d. Oration by Wm. M. Zabriskie, Esq. 
 
 4th. Music : Hail Columbia. 
 
 6th. Salute of thirteen guns at sunset. 
 
 The hall will be illuminated in the evening, and the whole wiH conclude with 
 a ball. A band of music will be in attendance. 
 
 jyl-2t ■ MAHLON T. COON. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Land-titles in Sacramento City — ^The squatters organize and 
 mean business — Buildings erected by the squatters demol- 
 isted — The squatters told incendiary meetings and declare 
 war to the knife — Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney 
 killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded — Burial of 
 Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney — The citizens 
 . organize military companies — Belief for the overland emi- 
 grants — Farewell to Sacramento City. 
 
 DuEiNG the summer the squatter element por- 
 tended trouble. The titles to real estate in Sacra- 
 mento were somewhat mixed, and the squatters 
 contended that they had as much right to the land 
 as those holding titles under Sutter. A squatters' 
 organization was formed, which held frequent meet- 
 ings, and its members made violent and incendiary 
 speeches, which, at first, were considered by the 
 Mayor and more conservative citizens, as mere 
 vaporings ; but they soon learned that the squatters 
 were in dead earnest and meant business. 
 
 On the 21st of June, four or five persons, hold- 
 ing property under Sutter's title, demolished a 
 squatter's house erected on a lot belonging to one 
 of the party. On the following day, twenty-five or 
 thirty persons made a raid on certain other lots of 
 land which had been seized and appropriated by the 
 squatters. They repaired with the proper imple- 
 ments to the Levee just above J Street, partially 
 19 (333) 
 
334 TROUBLES WITH THE SQUATTERS. 
 
 destroyed a house belonging to a squatter, and then 
 shoved it over on to a large tent, also owned by a 
 squatter, which was standing on the adjoining lot. 
 The next lot visited had been seized by a squatter 
 and inclosed by a fence, which was soon demolished. 
 They next commenced the work of devastation 
 upon a house belonging to a squatter, erected on 
 another man's land, which they completely de- 
 stroyed. Quite a number of citizens witnessed the 
 demolition of the buildings, but no opposition was 
 offered. As the party were about dispersing, one 
 of the gentlemen stated that he owned two lots on 
 J Street, over the slough, upon which the squatters 
 had seized, and that he would like to gain posses- 
 sion of his property. The j)arty promptly accom- 
 panied him to his lots, and found that they had 
 been fenced in, but no houses had been erected. 
 The fences were torn down and thrown into the 
 street. The object of the party having been gained, 
 they left for the town. Several of the squatters 
 followed them, and attracted quite a crowd by their 
 vociferous phouting. Much excitement existed in 
 the city. 
 
 A few days afterward, a squatter who had taken 
 possession of a lot in the outskirts of the city, was 
 asked by a gentleman by what authority he ex- 
 pected to hold the property on which he had 
 squatted. 
 
 " By preemption, of course" was the reply. 
 
 " Look here," said the gentleman, " what causes 
 the ground here to be so uneven ?" 
 
 " Why, it has been ploughed," was the answer. 
 
THE SQUATTEBS HOLD A MEETING. 335 
 
 " Well," continued the former, " don't you think 
 the man who ploughed this land has got the start 
 of yoa ; is he not the oldest settler ?" 
 
 When the squatter learned that Captain Sutter 
 had actually settled on the land a number of years 
 previously, and had all the title he required to 
 make his property secure until another government 
 assumed jurisdiction, the squatter concluded the 
 preemption law would not reach his case, and 
 immediately pulled up stakes and vamosed to the 
 mines. 
 
 On the evening of the 1st of July, the squatters 
 held a meeting at the Herkimer House, on Fourth 
 Street. Dr. Robinson was appointed Chairman, 
 and Mr. Milligan, Secretary. The Secretary stated 
 the object of the meeting, which was to make ar- 
 rangements to meet the suits against them, en masse; 
 each man was now defending himself, on his own 
 hook; the poor could ill afford it; the meeting had 
 been called to form a contract, raise a requisite 
 subscription, and employ the right hind of coun- 
 sel. Mr. Milligan enforced his remarks with an 
 eloquent appeal about the sacred right of the home- 
 stead — a right which every man was bound to pro- 
 tect in justice to himself, etc. After he had con- 
 cluded, Mr. McClatchy offered the following reso- 
 lution : 
 
 "Resolved, That a committee of two be appointed 
 to confer with the counsel, and inquire as to the 
 terms, etc." 
 
 Mr. Edwards thought Mr. Milligan 's remarks 
 cast reflection upon the counsel who had already 
 
336 DB. EOBINSOlir'S SPEECH. 
 
 been employed ; lie thought their counsel were the 
 best, and they deserved great credit. 
 
 The resolution was amended by increasing the 
 number from two to five. 
 
 Dr. Robinson said the Common Council had 
 undertaken to legislate in regard to public prop- 
 erty — property on which no action can be taken 
 except by the Legislature. He would ask "has 
 the Mayor any right to say what is my property and 
 what is not ?" He scouted the idea of landholders 
 making land for themselves. He would disregard 
 the Council, notwithstanding their assumed dig- 
 nity; they were destitute of common sense, and 
 should be regarded accordingly. It has been 
 said, " answer a fool according to his folly ;" he 
 would say "treat a fool as a fool ;" and if a man 
 showed himself too low to be respected, don't re- 
 spect him. For his part he looked down on the 
 Council — way down — down so low that he could not 
 see them. They were far out of sight of decent 
 men. For his part, he meant to imitate the Mayor, 
 meant to be a big squatter ! It was just as easy to 
 squat on one hundred and sixty acres as on one 
 acre, and what he didn't need he would give to the 
 poor squatters who are coming along by and by. 
 It was as easy to defend a big piece as a small jaiece, 
 and far better to take it themselves than to let 
 the big landholders get it and sell it. After Dr. 
 Robinson had concluded his remarks, the meeting 
 adjourned to give way for a spontaneous meeting of 
 the whole body of squatters, and for a short time 
 they made things lively. 
 
squatters' only aims. 337 
 
 In about half an hour the meeting reorganized. 
 Dr. Robinson was again placed in the chair, and 
 Mr. Edwards was appointed Secretary. Mr. 
 McClatchy requested the reading of an article from 
 the Pacifio News, which was frequently interrupted 
 with applause and stamping of feet. It was now 
 
 " Resolved, that a committee of five be chosen, 
 whose duty it shall be to confer with counsel on the 
 subject of land-claims on the part of the settlers, 
 and that all persons in the County of Sacramento 
 who have taken, and may take up land-claims, and 
 will share in the expense, shall reap the benefits." 
 
 Mr. Burt thought going to law unnecessary, for 
 the whole thing was illegal and could not be sus- 
 tained. Mr. Milligan said the object was to keep 
 their enemies at bay until the question could be 
 brought before a legal tribunal, where justice would 
 be done. He asked nothing but what was right. 
 Squatters were only aiming at justice ; satisfy them 
 that Sutter's title was good, and they would leave 
 the land as quick as a flea would jump off a hot 
 griddle! The resolution was again read and 
 adopted, and the following committee appointed: 
 Messrs. Wenner, Milligan, Mayhall, Plumbe and 
 Canfield. An additional committee of five was 
 then appointed to solicit subscriptions, and as a 
 remuneration for their services, they were allowed 
 to retain five per cent, of the amount collected. 
 The committee consisted of Messrs. Milligan, Wad- 
 den, Wenner, Hays and Washington. The meeting 
 again adjourned to meet on the following evening. 
 
 Pursuant to adjournment, the squatters met on 
 
338 KAISING MONEY NOT SO EASY 
 
 the following evening. Dr. Robinson occupied the 
 chair, and Mr. Edwards acted as Secretary. The 
 committee appointed at the previous meeting was 
 called upon to report. Mr. Milligan, of the sub- 
 scription committee, stated that the committee was 
 not yet prepared to report, and asked for time ; but 
 in answer to several questions as to the progress of 
 the committee, replied that he had been in the 
 county, but had unfortunately not succeeded in 
 finding the persons at home whom he went to see. 
 He had understood that the members of the com- 
 mittee who had canvassed the city had done better 
 than they expected. For his part, he had his 
 hopes and his fears, but he believed they would 
 succeed. He would do the best he could, but if 
 they thought some one else would do better, he 
 would willingly resign; he had not craved the 
 ofiice ; it was no pleasant task ; he had been sent 
 to a man who he was told was a brother-squatter ; 
 he went to see him and asked his assistance, and all 
 he got from the man was the reply, " that he had 
 known people to make money by minding their 
 own business I" and with this saying, the worthy 
 squatter jumped on his load and moved off. As 
 he said before, he craved no office, and if the meet- 
 ing thought another would fill his place better, he 
 was willing to stay at home and sit in the shade, 
 and if a fly lit on his nose he would quietly knock 
 it off! 
 
 The Secretary asked, "How much money has 
 your committee obtained already ?" Mr. Milligan 
 replied, " We are not prepared to answer definitely, 
 
AS RAISING A BIG TALK. 339 
 
 but think the subscriptions and cash in the city 
 amount to |1,200. His friend, Mr. Allen, had told 
 him he knew fifteen men who would give liberally, 
 probably $100 each." Mr. Milligan thought if they 
 got that amount it would be a good beginning ; not 
 much had been done ; all that part of Squatter-row 
 beyond where he lived had not been canvassed. 
 
 The chairman. Dr. Eobinson, said that lawyers 
 always like to know where their bread and butter 
 is, and if the money could not all come, they would 
 no doubt ask good security. Now suppose they ask 
 $2,000 down and $2,000 secured, where are your 
 bondsmen? That must be arranged; and if the 
 immigrants are expected to pay a part, some plan 
 must be adopted to let them into the benefits when 
 they come, by paying a fee. If this is not done, 
 the immigrants, when asked to subscribe for what 
 has been done, may say the lawyers are a villainous 
 set of scoundrels, and we will cheat them out of all 
 we can anyhow. So some one ought to be respon- 
 sible, that the counsel might feel secure. Mr. Mil- 
 ligan thought the committee themselves ought to 
 be the bondsmen. Mr. McClatchy thought it best 
 to leave the matter open until next meeting. He 
 desired to go into the country on Sunday if he 
 could steal a horse or borrow one. Sunday was a 
 good day, and collecting squatter subscriptions a 
 good deed. Dr. Robinson tendered his horse, and 
 said that the animal had once made $300 on a 
 similar excursion. Mr. McClatchy accepted the 
 offer. After some further desultory remarks, a 
 committee of three was appointed to draft a proper 
 
340 WHAT A LADY SHOULD BE WORTH. 
 
 heading for subscriptions, which would make it a 
 joint-stock matter, and if any surplus should be 
 subscribed over and above expenses, it should be 
 divided. Mr. Mayhall was ajppointed one of said 
 committee. Mr. Washington was nominated by a 
 gentleman, who said he did not mean Mr. Recorder 
 Washington, but Colonel Crawford Washington; 
 therefore Messrs. Mayhall, Washington, and John 
 W. Carter were the committee. Mr. McClatchy 
 had learned that the committee had refused to take 
 a subscription of less than f 25 from any individual. 
 Mr. Edwards knew a lady who had given $25. 
 Mr. Milligan thought a lady ought to be worth $25 
 in (Jalifornia ! if she was worth anything. Mr. 
 Edwards thought this a slur, and there was some 
 cross-firing. After a few remarks by Mr. Plumbe, 
 and a detailed history of the squatter movement by 
 Mr. Edwards, the meeting adjourned. 
 
 On the evening of July 24th, another squatter 
 meeting was held at the Herkimer House. The 
 meeting organized by appointing Dr. Merrick, 
 Chairman, and James McClatchy, Secretary. Dr. 
 Robinson stated the object of the meeting was to 
 take into consideration the matter of lawsuits. He 
 stated that the committee had employed Messrs. 
 Tweed, Aldrich, Mayhall and McKune on equal 
 terms — $1,000 each. These gentlemen had con- 
 sented to do the settlers justice, if they would in 
 turn do their part, and pay them a sum of money — 
 which Dr. R. did not name — ^in advance. If the 
 issue was successful, the settlers were expected to do 
 what they could afford to in addition to the $4,000. 
 
GETTING EEADY TO FIGHT. 341 
 
 Of the subscriptions, all over $4,000 to be common 
 stock for the subscribers for their benefit as an 
 association — collector to receive five per cent., and 
 Mr. James McClatchy to be collector. The speaker 
 said he was willing to trust Mr. McClatchy in town, 
 but he wouldn't be responsible for him when he got 
 out of town ! Mr. McClatchy said he was a law- 
 abiding citizen, but if these speculators were ready 
 to fight, so was he. He would rather fight than 
 collect subscriptions, any day ; and if they showed 
 fight, give them battle, and the devil take the hind- 
 most. Let us put up all the fences pulled down, 
 and put up the men who pulled them down ! 
 [Great applause and stamping.] After further 
 remarks by Messrs. Robinson, Burke, Malony and 
 Edwards, the meeting adjourned. 
 
 On the morning of August 14th the culminating 
 point was reached, and the impending conflict com- 
 menced. On the previous day, James McClatchy 
 and Michael Moran were arrested and taken before 
 Justice Fake, charged with being parties in a con- 
 templated attempt to resist the Sheriff, should he 
 enforce the law in accordance with a decision given 
 by Judge Willis against the squatters. The testi- 
 mony was against the prisoners, and in default of 
 bail of f 2,000 each, they were both confined in the 
 prison-ship. 
 
 On the morning of the 14th, a house on Second 
 Street having been seized by the Sheriff, in accord- 
 ance with the law, the squatters assembled in armed 
 force of about thirty, under a leader by the name 
 of Malony. They proceeded to the house which 
 
342 MAYOK BIGELOW IN THE SADDLE. 
 
 was in possession of the authorities and retook it. 
 Their leader then harangued them, and they pro- 
 ceeded down L Street to the Levee. The party 
 were armed with guns and pistols ; their leader was 
 on horseback, armed with pistols and a sword. 
 They marched along the Levee toward the prison- 
 ship, a crowd of citizens gradually collecting behind 
 them. The report soon spread that their intention 
 was to release the prisoners confined in the prison- 
 ship. 
 
 Mayor Bigelow, who was on horseback, issued 
 his orders at Warbass's corner, calling upon the 
 citizens to take up their arms for the defense of the 
 laws of the city and of California He then made 
 the same proclamation on the opposite corner, and 
 subsequently further up on J Street, opposite the 
 Southern Hotel. Numbers at each place rushed 
 for their arms, and began to assemble at the prison- 
 ship. It seems, however, that the squatters, when 
 they reached the outlet of Sutter's Lake, just above J 
 Street, stopped and commenced moving lumber from 
 a certain lot of land. Soon, however, Malony, their 
 leader, addressed them briefly, stating that the lumber 
 belonged to a friend, and that he would have it re- 
 moved soon. This was satisfactory to them, and 
 they marched in regular order, headed by their 
 captain with drawn sword, up J Street. They were 
 followed by a crowd of unarmed citizens, who 
 were hooting and laughing at them. When the 
 crowd of citizens reached the corner of Second and 
 I Streets, one of their number stated that the 
 Mayor was approaching, and that they had better 
 
THE FIGHT BEGINS. 343 
 
 await his orders. The crowd stopped and the 
 squatters marched on, turned into Third Street and 
 entered J. As the Mayor rode up to the citizens on 
 the corner of Second and I Streets, he was asked 
 what his orders were. He promptly replied, that 
 he wished those men who were in arms against the 
 authorities to he arrested. Three cheers were then 
 given for the Mayor. Mayor Bigelow said he would 
 lead the party himself, and they immediately pro- 
 ceeded after the squatters. The squatters, mean- 
 while, had turned into J Street and were marching 
 out. When on the corner of Fourth Street, Ma- 
 lony, their captain, turned around, and seeing the 
 Mayor, Sheriff and several armed citizens after them, 
 commanded his men to halt. 
 
 They drew up in line across Fourth Street, facing 
 on J Street, with their leader on the right. The 
 Mayor and Sheriff rode up and commanded the 
 squatters to lay down their arms and deliver 
 themselves up as prisoners. As the citizens were 
 approaching, Malony commanded his men to fire, 
 and said distinctly : " Shoot the Mayor ; shoot the 
 Ilayor !" The squatters leveled their guns and 
 fired. Some of their guns, however, were pointed 
 several feet over the heads of the citizens ; while 
 others were aimed lower and took more deadly 
 effect. A general free fight ensued, in which there 
 was firing on both sides. After the squatters had 
 fired their guns, they drew their pistols ; but the 
 citizens rushed upon them, when they broke and 
 dispersed. 
 
 At the first fire. Mayor Bigelow, who, throughout 
 
344 THE MAYOR SEVERELY WOXJiSfDED. 
 
 the whole aflFair, showed himself a brave and deter- 
 mined man, was wounded very dangerously. One 
 ball glanced his cheek; another passed into his 
 thigh ; one tore his thumb badly and shattered the 
 bones of his hand, and the fourth produced the 
 most serious wound of all. The ball passed through 
 his body, in the region of the liver. After he was 
 shot, he fell upon the neck of his horse. The 
 horse started, and he was enabled to hold himself 
 upon his back a short time, when he fell to the 
 ground. He arose, however, walked a few steps 
 and dropped on the ground. He then said that the 
 citizens must protect their city themselves, for he 
 was disabled and could do no more. He was borne 
 to the Columbia Hotel, where he received the best 
 medical attendance, 
 
 Mr. J. M. Woodland, City Assessor, was also shot. 
 He did not speak after he fell, and survived but a 
 few moments. The ball passed through his body, 
 on the left side. No citizen, was more respected 
 than Mr. Woodland, and few were more useful. 
 
 Malony, captain of the squatters, was also shot 
 dead. He received three wounds ; one in the arm, 
 one in the back and one through the head, which 
 caused almost instantaneous death. A man by the 
 name of Jesse Morgan was also killed by a shot 
 through the neck. He was from Holmes County, 
 Ohio, and had but recently arrived with his wife 
 and one child. He was proprietor of the Oak 
 Grove House. One other person was killed on the 
 side of the squatters, name unknown. In addition 
 to Mayor Bigelow, the wounded were Dr. Charles 
 
THE KILLED AND WOUNDED. 345 
 
 Robinson, a leading squatter, from Fitchburg, Mas- 
 sachusetts. He was badly though not mortally 
 wounded in the left side, the ball passing through 
 his body. He was placed on a cot and taken to 
 the prison-ship. Mr. J. H. Harper, of Independ- 
 ence, Missouri, was also wounded. He exhibited 
 great bravery, facing the squatters, and after firing 
 off the barrels of his revolver, he threw it at them, 
 whereupon they fired on him. He was wounded 
 in both hands while they were placed across his 
 breast to protect it from the shots of the squatters. 
 A ball which passed through one hand, glanced 
 against his side and produced a slight wound. Mr. 
 Harper, though severely hurt, was not mortally 
 wounded. Mr. Hale, of the firm of Crowell, Hale 
 & Co., on J Street, was wounded slightly in the leg 
 by a musket-ball. A child of Mr. Rogers, of the 
 firm of Burnett & Rogers, was also slightly wounded 
 in the leg. 
 
 During the fight there were four persons killed, 
 and five wounded. Of those killed, three were 
 squatters, and one of the citizens party. Of the 
 wounded, four were of the citizens party, and one 
 was a squatter. 
 
 Sheriff McKinney showed himself, through the 
 whole affray, every inch a man. A squatter who 
 was armed with a revolver, deliberately aimed at 
 the Sheriff and discharged six balls at him, none 
 of which, fortunately, took effect. Dr. White, Re- 
 corder Washington, Mr. Ruth and Dr. Pearis also 
 acquitted themselves nobly. 
 
 Assessor Woodland was buried on the following 
 
346 THE sheeiff's expedition. 
 
 day, and after tlie funeral, Sheriff McKinney and 
 about twenty others, proceeded out toward Sutter's 
 Fort. When the party arrived at the Fort, the 
 Sheriff stated that he intended to go out to the 
 Five-Mile House, and arrest any squatters that he 
 could find, either there or further on, if it should be 
 to Mormon Island. Some of the party, not knowing 
 the Sheriff's object when they started, were entirely 
 unarmed, and one man left and rode back to town. 
 The others armed themselves. The Sheriff then 
 drew up the party in rank of four, and in this order 
 they proceeded in a quick gallop out to the Five- 
 Mile House. The Sheriff, however, learned noth- 
 ing there. The party proceeded on toward the 
 Pavilion, but, before arriving there, they were met 
 by a man who informed the Sheriff that a party of 
 squatters were located at "Allen's," two or three 
 houses beyond the Pavilion. 
 
 The Sheriff thereupon commanded a halt, and 
 sent two men forward to the house. While these 
 men were absent, the Sheriff drew up his small 
 force in line, and divided them into three squads 
 of six men each. One squad was under the com- 
 mand of General Winn and another under Mr. 
 Eobinson. The Sheriff's orders were that one 
 party should apjoroach the house from the left, Mr. 
 Robinson's party were to approach it from the 
 right and General Winn's in front. Thus the 
 jDarties proceeded, Sheriff McKinney taking charge 
 of General Winn's division. When they reached 
 the front of the house, the Sheriff called upon the 
 men, in a jocose manner, to dismount and take a 
 
THE SHERIFF KILLED. 347 
 
 drink. He, witli several others, entered the house, 
 -while the balance of the squad were hitching their 
 horses. Upon finding men in an adjoining room, 
 armed and ready to receive him, he commanded 
 them to lay down their arms. The squatters re- 
 plied with a volley. There were eight or ten 
 squatters in the house. A general melee then en- 
 sued, and brisk firing was kept up by both parties 
 for a few minutes. Shots passed in and out of the 
 windows and the door, and constant firing was 
 going on in the house. In the confusion, Sheriff 
 McKinney had gotten out of the house, and as he 
 was standing near the front door, a tall man fired 
 at him from the inner room. He had a long gun 
 loaded with buck-shot. The aim. was too sure, and 
 Sheriff McKinney was shot. He raised both hands 
 and said three times, "I'm dead, I'm dead. I'm, 
 dead." While he was repeating the foregoing, he 
 walked about ten steps and then fell dead. 
 
 Just after the tall man shot the Sheriff, Dr. Bry- 
 arly, v^ho was near, aimed his pistol at him and 
 fired. The ball probably took effect, for the man 
 dropped his gun and fell over. In the melee, two 
 squatters named Kelly and Henshaw, who fired 
 from behind the bar, were shot dead. Captain 
 Radford was severely wounded in the forearm, the 
 bones being broken. Four prisoners were captured 
 and taken to the Pavilion. During the firing, 
 Captain Hamersley was thrown from his horse and 
 injui-ed in the back. One of the prisoners was then 
 taken to town under guard, and parties proceeded to 
 the city to inform the citizens of the state of affairs. 
 
348 MUSTEK-EOLL OF COMPANY A, 
 
 Tlie first reinforcement that reached the Pavilion 
 from the city, was a party of ten men led by Mr. 
 Lundy. The second was a party of twelve men 
 led by Mr. Tracy. General Winn formed them in 
 line and made a brief address. The three remain- 
 ing jsrisoners were placed in an omnibus, together 
 with Captain Radford and the remains of Sheriff 
 McKinney, and a guard of horsemen accompanied 
 the omnibus to the city. The names of the prisoners 
 in the omnibus were John Hughes, James R. Goff- 
 man and William B. Gornogg. The body of the 
 Sheriff was left at Sutter's Fort, and the prisoners 
 were conveyed down J Street, along Front, to the 
 prison-ship. 
 
 On the part of the authorities. Sheriff McKinney 
 was killed and Gap tain Radford wounded, not mor- 
 tally. On the part of the squatters, two were killed 
 and two wounded, and four were taken prisoners. 
 
 Dr. Bryarly, Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Milne, Mr. Greal, 
 Mr. Bruce and an unknown German gave evidence 
 of great bravery during the affray. 
 
 In a few hours after the outbreak of the 14th, 
 Gompany A was formed and reported ready for 
 duty. The following is the muster-roll of the 
 Gompany : Captain, Jeremiah Sherwood ; First 
 Lieutenant, Lewis Smith ; Senior Second Lieu- 
 tenant, J. Weatherspoon ; Junior Second Lieutenant, 
 Lyman B. Mimson ; Orderly Sergeant, George Lat- 
 tie ; Second Sergeant, B. Phinney ; Third Sergeant, 
 Geo. H. Buckley ; Fourth Sergeant, John Mason ; 
 First Corporal, George King; Second Corporal, 
 Edward Corigan; Third Corporal, John Mattiii; 
 
AND OF THE " SACRAMENTO GtTAED." 349 
 
 Fourth Corporal, Lyman Bates; Musician, James 
 Lattie ; Privates, Thomas Kinney, George Graham, 
 Andrew Bell, Jr., John Smith, E. Seymour, John 
 R. Dickenson, James Burns, John' Tinson, M. 
 Henderson, John H. Underhill, Henry M. Jewett, 
 Henry F. Beadle, Charles L. H. Long, Henry 
 Coverdale, Charles Gordon, James Northrop, T. G. 
 Hewlett, James Evans, J. W. Honrer, T. Wilson, 
 John Wilson, E. McGinnis, William Shifmire, C.W. 
 Coats, F. N. McCron, James Funston, James Hen- 
 man, Albert Morgan, Jesse Toby, Edward Bestwick, 
 Lewis A. Barnes, S. B. Elwell, Martin Metzger, 
 Henry Bosenbaum, Robert Clark, J. S. Applegate, 
 John Duncan, M. G. Whitlock, Richard Clark, 
 Isaac M. Yearley. 
 
 On the evening of the same day, another company 
 was organized under the name of " The Sacramento 
 Ghiard," and the following officers were elected: 
 Captaiji, David McDowell; First Lieutenant, Henry 
 Hale ; Second Lieutenants, W. H. Crowell, James 
 Queen ; Sergeants, First, H. G. Langley ; Second, 
 B. B. Gore ; Third, C. C. Flagg ; Fourth, W. H. 
 Talmage ; Corporals, First, L. J. Wilder ; Second, 
 G. L. Hewitt; Third, T. H. Borden; Fourth, W. 
 E. Moody; Clerk, W. R. McCracken; Privates, 
 sixty-five. 
 
 After Mayor Bigelow had fallen, the Common 
 Council assembled and placed Recorder Washington 
 at the head of the police of the city. The Council 
 then granted him authority to raise any number of 
 men not to exceed five hundred. It was also voted 
 that Mr. Demas Strong, President of Council, should 
 
 20 
 
350 BILL FOK MEDICAL ATTENDANCE, ETC, 
 
 assume the duties of Mayor, and that the rest of the 
 Council should arm and place themselves under 
 Recorder Washington. Coroner P. F. Ewer as- 
 sumed the duties of Sheriff. 
 
 On examination of the wounds of Mayor Bigelow, 
 it was deemed advisable to amputate his thumb, and 
 the operation was performed by Dr. Birdsall. Sub- 
 sequently mortification set in, and the Mayor was 
 removed to San Francisco, where his arm was 
 amputated. For nursing, etc., after the operation 
 had been performed, the following modest bill was 
 l^resented to the Common Council of Sacramento 
 City — female labor in California being at a pre- 
 mium, as will be seen by the last item of the bill : 
 
 San Feancisco, Nov. 29th, 1850. 
 Hon. H. Bigelow, Mayor of Sacramento City, 
 
 To J. W. Stillman, Dr. 
 For Cash advanced for sundries during his illness at 
 
 my house, $480.00 
 
 " Cash paid for washing clothes soiled by his wounds, 165.00 
 " Five weeks' use of best and largest room in house, 
 
 @ $100 per week, 500.00 
 
 " One carpet, ruined by chloride of lime, used in 
 
 sick-room, 77.00 
 
 " Cash paid for pair of boots, .... 16.00 
 " Sundries, bandages, extra candles, extra refresh- 
 ments, wines, etc., for self and attendants at 
 
 night, etc., five weeks, 500.00 
 
 " Five weeks' attendance of Mrs. Stillman, night and 
 
 day, 500.00 
 
 Total, . . $2,238.00 
 Sheriff McKinney was buried on the 16th, and 
 
FUNERAL OP THE SHEKIFF. 351 
 
 the obsequies were very impressive. His funeral, 
 although, it took place from Sutter's Fort, was very 
 largely attended, not only by friends on horseback 
 and in carriages, but by large numbers on foot. 
 The Common Council had the general charge of the 
 obsequies, but the body was buried with Masonic 
 honors, and was under the immediate charge of the 
 brethren of the Order. They preceded the hearse, 
 w^hich was followed by a long file of carriages. The 
 militia, under Captain Sherwood, came next, and 
 then about a hundred citizens on horseback. The 
 ceremonies at the grave were conducted in an elo- 
 quent and feeling manner by Judge Willis, and after 
 the cofiin was deposited in its final resting-place, 
 many were the sprigs of evergreen that were thrown 
 into the grave — silent, eloquent tokens of the fellow- 
 ship of numerous brethren. His afflicted wife and 
 bereaved relatives stood at the edge of the grave ; 
 their grief and the solemn ceremonial hushed the 
 crowd to breathless silence and brought tears to 
 many eyes. Silently the body was deposited ; the 
 prayer was offered ; the responses rose from hearts 
 touched with sympathy, and the crowd departed, 
 leaving behind them the remains of one whose name 
 will ever live in the memory of every true lover of 
 the common weal of California. 
 
 Late in the summer, intelligence reached Sacra- 
 mento City, that great suffering existed among the 
 overland immigrants. Public meetings were held, 
 a relief committee organized, money subscribed, 
 23rovisions purchased, and trains dispatched for the 
 relief of the sufferers. The first meeting, started 
 
352 THE AUTHOR BIDS ADIEU TO OALIFOKNI 
 
 almost impromptu by Colonel John Bigler, without 
 previous notice or regular organization, was largely 
 attended, and the following amounts subscribed for 
 their relief: 
 
 Captain Wm. Waldo, .... |1,000 
 B. Jennings, ...... 1,000 
 
 Thos. J. Henley, 100 
 
 M. Walthall, 100 
 
 R. J. Watson & Co., .... 250 
 
 S. P. Dewey, 100 
 
 W.W.Warner, 50 
 
 Cash paid on the spot, .... 200 
 
 William Rightmire, one good mule. 
 
 Several smaller sums were also subscribed, amount- 
 ing in the aggregate to several hundred dollars. 
 
 Late in the month of August, with the following 
 " Character " — from the editorial columns of the 
 Transcript — in my pocket, I bade farewell to Sac- 
 ramento City and turned my face homeward : 
 
 Departure op Me. Upham. — The next steamer for the 
 States will bear from us one who was with us in the commence- 
 ment of our enterprise, and whose judgment and business talent 
 have been to us of incalculable benefit. We allude to Mr. 
 Upham. Our acquaintance with him was accidental. We 
 became partners almost at first sight, but never did we find 
 occasion to regret for a moment the unbounded confidence we 
 always reposed in him. He leaves us while we are mourning 
 the death, in our midst, of one of the noblest of men — thus 
 adding to our sorrow and depriving us of another member of 
 our family. Verily, the friendship which springs up between 
 business men in this country is unlike the general acquaint- 
 anceship of other lands, which is laid aside without any appar- 
 ent regret, and resumed only when politic or convenient. 
 
AND LEAVES FOE HOME. 353 
 
 Here, our partners in business form our social circles, and when 
 one of a business firm retires, it is like dismembering a family. 
 Mr. Upham came to California prepared to commence at 
 the bottom of the ladder, and climb slowly but surely jip. 
 Like most new-comers, he went to the mines and dug. His 
 health failed him, and he returned to San Francisco late in the 
 fall of last year. After a few days of unsuccessful effort to 
 get into business, he finally secured the situation of carrier of 
 the Paaifio News. His fine capacity soon attracted the atten- 
 tion of his employers, who selected him to keep the books and 
 transact the business of the establishment. It was there we 
 found him. After living with us four months, he leaves us in 
 our new home, and possibly we shall not see him again for 
 years, if ever. But wherever he is, we shall not forget the 
 qualities that have so conduced to our enjoyment and forwarded 
 our business. We sincerely wish him a speedy return to his 
 family and success in the business in which he may hereafter 
 engage. 
 
CHAPTEE XXI. 
 
 Down the Sacramento on the steamer Senator — San Francisco 
 in the fall of 1850— Farewell, San Francisco — Homeward 
 bound — The steamer Columbus — Captain Peck — Incidents 
 on board — Arrival at Acapulco — Scenes on shore — Conflict 
 of authority — Overland emigrants via City of Mexico — 
 Arrival at Panama — Go ashore pig-a-back — Immersion 
 without the benefit of clergy — Panama in 1850 — Two of 
 the Columbus's passengers die of cholera. 
 
 I ENGAGED passage on board the steamer Senator. 
 She made a fine run down the Sacramento, crossed 
 Suisun Bay, and after exchanging passengers at Be- 
 nicia, threaded her way through the Straits of Car- 
 quinez and entered San Pablo Bay. I retired early, 
 and at daylight on the following morning, found 
 myself alongside the steamboat wharf at Clark's 
 Point. After removing my baggage to the City 
 Hotel, I took a stroll about the city ; but old things 
 had passed away, and all things, comparatively 
 speaking, had become new. During an absence 
 of four months from San Francisco, a wonderful 
 change had taken place. 
 
 The most populous part of the city had, within 
 that time, twice fallen a prey to that devouring ele- 
 ment — fire. New and tasteful brick structures had 
 superseded the frail adobe and wooden tenements ; 
 the streets and sidewalks had been planked ; piers 
 and wharves, extending across the mud-flats far into 
 the bay, had been constructed ; in fact, the city had 
 
 (354) 
 
ft ''' ' 
 
 Ii 
 
FAREWELL, SAN FRANCISCO. 357 
 
 put on an entirely new dress. Happy Valley, whicli, 
 four months previously, contained scarcely half a 
 dozen frame buildings, now boasted as many hun- 
 dreds. Verily, this El Dorado is a wonderful coun- 
 try; and San Francisco, despite clouds of dust and 
 chilly afternoons, is destined to become the second 
 city on this continent. Farewell, San Francisco ! 
 
 "Thy beautiful harbor, proud golden-gemmed Queen, 
 Is rivalled by none the world has e'er seen !" 
 
 "We will now step on board the steamship 
 Columbus, commanded by that prince of captains, 
 J. B. Peck. At six o'clock on an August after- 
 noon, amid the adieus of friends who had assembled 
 to see me off, the scramble among trunks, bags and 
 other luggage, the Columbus cast off her bow and 
 stern lines — the last physical tie that bound me to 
 California — swung into the stream and was soon 
 puffing out of the harbor under a full head of steam. 
 
 As the shipping in the harbor receded from my 
 view, the little hamlet of Soucileto, nestling quietly 
 among the hills on the opposite side of the bay, 
 hove in sight, but was soon lost in the dim distance. 
 As the Columbus approached the Golden Gate, she 
 bounded gayly over the water, impatient to reach 
 the broad bosom of the Pacific. I shall never for- 
 get the memories that crowded my brain as I passed 
 through the Golden Gate homeward-bound. When 
 I entered the harbor of San Francisco, on board the 
 brig Osceola, thirteen months previously, feelings of 
 a far different nature occupied my mind. The dif- 
 ference between an outward and a homeward-bound 
 
358 CKOWDED OUT OP MY STATE-E003I. 
 
 voyage can be appreciated only by those who have 
 experienced both. 
 
 Early in the evening, I threaded my way between 
 market-baskets, trunks and camp-stools to my state- 
 room, cogitating, as I passed along, upon the glories 
 of a night's rest between clean sheets, but 
 
 " This world is all a fleeting show," 
 
 and all things sublunary are very uncertain, as 
 the case in question will illustrate. On reaching 
 state-room F, I was taken all aback by finding 
 it stowed with strange baggage. I could, in fact, 
 find anything but my own goods and chattels. The 
 cabin-maid soon made her appearance, and entered 
 into an explanation of matters. Women generally 
 carry their point, and it so hajopened in this case, 
 although the justice of the matter seemed to me 
 rather questionable. It appeared, upon investiga- 
 tion, that two individuals of the male persuasion, 
 occupying state-room E had surrendered their 
 quarters to a gentleman and his wife, and during 
 the absence of myself and room-mate, had taken 
 possession of state-room F. I endeavored to con- 
 vince them of the injustice of their proceedings, but 
 it was of no use, and as a lady was involved in the 
 case, I accepted a berth in state-room B and dropped 
 the subject. My room-mates were a Mr. Clarkson, 
 of San Jose, and Mr. Tittle, ex-Postmaster of Sac- 
 ramento City ; both bound to the States for their 
 better-halves and little ones. 
 
 There were forty-two cabin and one hundred and 
 seventy-six steerage passengers on board the Colum- 
 
BICKEEINGS END DELIGHTFULLY. 361 
 
 bus, and when all were congregated on deck, there 
 was not mucli spare room. At the commencement 
 of the voyage, petty jealousies and bickerings 
 existed between the cabin and steerage passengers 
 in relation to their rights to the hurricane or 
 promenade deck. On the fourth day at sea a line 
 was stretched across the deck abaft the mizzen- 
 mast by the cabin passengers, and the steerage pas- 
 sengers were requested to keep forward of the line. 
 This movement on the part of the cabin passengers 
 was taken in high dudgeon by their brethren of the 
 steerage, and a war of words ensued, interlarded 
 with epithets more forcible than polite. On the 
 ensuing evening a meeting was convened in the 
 cabin, and after a free discussion of grievances on 
 both sides, it wound up to the entire satisfaction of 
 all concerned, with champagne and cigars for the 
 crowd. 
 
 We were favored with fine weather and a smooth 
 sea until we reached the Gulf of California, where 
 we encountered head-winds and cross-seas for sev- 
 enty hours, during which time a majority of the pas- 
 sengers paid the requisite tribute to old Neptune by 
 casting up their accounts. Mr. Tittle was decidedly 
 opposed to a nautical life. He was of the opinion 
 that life on the plains was far preferable to a 
 
 " Life on the ocean wave." 
 
 We ran down the coast of Mexico with the land 
 close aboard. The coast was bluff and abrupt, pre- 
 senting in many places a highly picturesque appear- 
 
362 AIKY COSTUMES. 
 
 ance ; and, in the distance, the Cordilleras raised 
 their snow-capped heads majestically to the skies. 
 
 On the afternoon of August 26th, the Columbus 
 dropped her anchor in the harbor of Acapulco, 
 near the shore, and immediately in front of the 
 Plaza. The port officer had scarcely left us before 
 we were surrounded by a fleet of small boats of 
 almost every conceivable style of architecture, from 
 the rude Indian canoe or bungo to the clinker-built 
 whale-boat. Several of the passengers availed them- 
 selves of the opportunity offered by the numerous 
 water-craft alongside, and went on shore to spend 
 the night. A majority, however, myself among the 
 number, having the fear of cholera before their 
 eyes, concluded to remain on board during the night, 
 and visit the shore next morning. After suppter I 
 seated myself on the hurricane deck and chewed the 
 cud of reflection over the end of a cheroot until the 
 cathedral bell tolled the hour of midnight. I then 
 went below and was soon locked hard and fast in 
 the embrace of Morpheus. 
 
 At sunrise next morning, I went ashore, accom- 
 panied by a couple of friends, for the purpose of 
 seeing the sights in Acapulco. The first object 
 that met my eye on reaching the shore, was a group 
 of Mexican children gamboling along the gravelly 
 beach, in a state of perfect nudity, and as I passed 
 through the city toward the Fort, I saw several 
 " children of a larger growth " attired in the same 
 airy costume. In the vicinity of the Fort, I saw 
 several soldiers with no other uniform than a cotton 
 shirt, glazed cap with a red bobbin, and a rusty 
 
ACAPXJLCO, STREETS AND HOUSES. 363 
 
 musket. I once saw at Gibraltar a company of 
 Highlanders with, bare legs and broadswords, which 
 I considered a breezy uniform, but the costume of 
 the Acapulco soldiers caps the climax. 
 
 The city of Acapulco is situated on the north- 
 east side of the bay, and is surrounded on three sides 
 by a range of mountains towering to the skies, and 
 clothed to their summits with cactus and chaparral. 
 Along the beach and throughout the suburbs of 
 the city, the symmetrical cocoanut tree, with its 
 long sword-shaped leaves and clusters of fruit, rears 
 its head in all its majesty, affording shade and 
 shelter as well as food for the natives. The city is 
 mostly built on two streets, each about three-fourths 
 of a mile in length, and running parallel with the 
 bay shore. The buildings, with the exception of 
 the cathedral, are only one-story high and are 
 mostly constructed of adobes, with tile or thatched 
 roofs. The street leading from the Plaza to the 
 Fort, is paved with blocks of granite and sandstone. 
 The other streets are graveled, and a stream of pure 
 water is continually running along the gutters, 
 giving them a clean and cool appearance. The 
 houses in most cases are whitewashed inside and 
 out ; and the city, taken all in all, presents a cleanly 
 appearance. It contains about 3,500 inhabitants, 
 mostly Mexicans. The Bay of Acapulco is easy of 
 access, completely landlocked, and is considered 
 one of the safest harbors on the Pacific coast. 
 
 After having viewed the Fort, an ancient adobe 
 and sandstone structure, we visited the house of an 
 old Scotchman, who had, some thirty years pre- 
 
364 EMEABKASSING SITUATION. 
 
 viously, married a native wife and became Mexi- 
 canized. Immediately on landing, we liad ordered 
 a breakfast of chickens, eggs, milk and chocolate. 
 The sanitary committee had tabooed milk during 
 the prevalence of the cholera in the city ; but 
 chickens and eggs in abundance were set before us, 
 to all of which we did ample justice. Chickens 
 and fresh eggs were most assuredly a great luxury 
 to those who had been deprived of them for nearly 
 fifteen months. 
 
 During the early part of the day, Captain Peck 
 watered and coaled the Columbus, and at four 
 o'clock, P. M., the sound of her signal-gun came 
 booming over the bay, the summons for the pas- 
 sengers to rej)air on board. A general stamjiede 
 was made for the boats on the beach, and several 
 were filled and about to shove off, when a file of 
 soldiers emerged from the guard-house close by 
 and ordered the boatmen not to enter their boats. 
 A pretty state of ajSfairs now presented itself. The 
 Columbus had fired her signal-gun and would most 
 likely get under way within half an hour, whether 
 the passengers were on board or not, and a taboo 
 had been placed on all the boats. Some cursed the 
 boatmen; others remonstrated with the soldiers, 
 and endeavored to ascertain the cause of the deten- 
 tion ; but they shook their heads and said they " no 
 sabe Americano." However, we were not kept long 
 in suspense. The soldiers, headed by a nervous 
 little citizen with a small black stick in his right 
 hand, which he was constantly twirling about in a 
 fidgety manner, approached two of the passengers. 
 
THE TWO JONAHS. 365 
 
 who had, during the passage, proven themselves to 
 belong to the sporting fraternity, and requested 
 them to accompany him to the office of the Alcalde; 
 but as they were decidedly opposed to being escorted 
 through the city by an armed guard, they peremp- 
 torily declined the honor and retreated toward the 
 boats. The soldiers cocked their muskets and com- 
 manded them to stand. One of the gamblers drew 
 his revolver and threatened to shoot the first liombre 
 that approached to arrest either himself or partner. 
 The pistol cooled the ardor of the soldiers to such a 
 degree, that the gamblers were allowed to seize a 
 boat and make their escape to the steamer. 
 
 It appeared, from subsequent investigation, that 
 the cause of the attempt to arrest grew out of a 
 onelee which had occurred at a gambling-table in 
 the American Hotel on the previous night. The 
 gamblers said that the proprietors of the monte 
 bank used waxed cards, and attempted to come the 
 " draw game" on them ; and they, as a set-off, came 
 the " grab game " on the funds of the bank, which 
 caused an order to be issued for their arrest and 
 trial before the Alcalde. The escape of the gam- 
 blers on board the Columbus was reported to the 
 American consul, who immediately went on board 
 and stated the circumstances of the case to Captain 
 Peck, who, in his usual bland manner, informed the 
 two " sporting gentlemen" that they could have the 
 choice of either being confined in irons on board 
 the steamer, or of going ashore in the custody of the 
 consul. After a few moments' consultation, they 
 concluded to go ashore and stand their trial before 
 
dbb A PAETY OF GEOKQIANS. 
 
 the Alcalde, Judge Pratt, of Oregon, a passenger 
 on board the steamer Caroline, having volunteered 
 to act as their counsel in the case. As soon as the 
 prisoners were put upon their trial, my two friends 
 and myself engaged a bungo and went on board the 
 steamer. We had scarcely reached the deck before 
 the anchor was hoisted and the Columbus was 
 steaming out of the harbor, leaving the gamblers 
 and three or four of the passengers, who had been 
 detained as witnesses, to the tender mercies of the 
 Mexican authorities. Poor fellows ; they were 
 caught in bad comjjany, and will learn a lesson that 
 will no doubt be of future service to thetri. 
 
 While in Acapulco, I made the acquaintance of 
 a party of Georgians, bound for California, who 
 came by the way of Vera Cruz and the City of 
 Mexico. Two of the party were brought into the 
 city by the natives, on litters, having been taken 
 sick on the road. One had been attacked with 
 cholera, and was in a critical state ; the other was 
 recovering from an attack of dysentery. When 
 this party left Vera Cruz, on the last of July, the 
 cholera was raging there to an alarming extent. 
 The City of Mexico was quite healthy when they 
 passed through it. They saw several guerrilla bands 
 on the route, but they were peaceably disposed. 
 They performed the journey between the City of 
 Mexico and Acaj)ulco, a distance of 100 leagues, in 
 eleven days. They report the streams very much 
 swollen and the road very rough. 
 
 The steamer Tennessee left Acapulco on the even- 
 ing the Columbus arrived, bound for San Francisco, 
 
MOKE LUCKY THAN MY FKIENDS. 367 
 
 "witli only twenty passengers on board. The steamer 
 Caroline, from San Francisco, arrived at Acapulco 
 some ten hours ahead of the Columbus. We had 
 a smooth sea and a delightful run between Acapulco 
 and Panama, where we arrived on the evening of 
 September 4th, eight days from the former place. 
 The weather, with the exception of an occasional 
 shower, was pleasant, and we had a very agreeable 
 passage. The health of the passengers was re- 
 markably good during the entire passage. The 
 Caroline arrived in Panama fifteen minutes ahead 
 of the Columbus. 
 
 At six o'clock, A. M., on September 5th, I tum- 
 bled myself and baggage into a boat, bade the 
 Columbus adieu, and in about half an hour there- 
 after found myself on the shoulders of a native, who 
 was propelling through the surf as fast as his powers 
 of locomotion would admit of. He landed me on 
 the beach, in front of the city-gate, high and dry, 
 safe and sound ; damages, f 4, ■ including boat-hire. 
 My friend, Bowditch, formerly attached to the 
 steamer Governor Dana, was less fortunate than 
 myself. The hombre, whom he undertook to ride 
 ashore pig-a-back, unhorsed him — perhaps, un- 
 manned would be the better word — in three feet of 
 water on a coral reef, and left him floundering in 
 the surf. He succeeded, however, in reaching the 
 shore, amid the shouts of the assembled darkies. 
 Ex-Postmaster Tittle also received an immersion 
 without the benefit of clergy, at the hands of a 
 boatman. The hombre who carried me through the 
 surf, seemed extremely anxious to treat me to a salt- 
 
368 THEEE DAYS IN PANAMA. 
 
 water bath, but I caugbt him by the ears, deter- 
 mined to bring his head under water should he 
 submerge me. I would advise all persons going 
 ashore at Panama, to land at the Market-steps, 
 thereby avoiding a ride through the surf on the 
 back of a negro, and also the probability of wet 
 inexpressibles. 
 
 At the solicitation of a friend, I accompanied him 
 to the American Hotel, kept by an American sea- 
 cajDtain, but neither the house nor its proprietor 
 realized my expectations, and, after having par- 
 taken of a miserably-served breakfast, I removed 
 my baggage to the Louisiana Restaurant, near the 
 gate on the Cruces road, where I remained during 
 the three days I sojourned in Panama. I cannot 
 recommend this house too highly to persons travel- 
 ing either to or from California. During my stay in 
 Panama, I visited the barracks and prison ; viewed 
 the crumbling wall, in all its meanderings, that sur- 
 rounds the city ; inspected the large dismantled 
 guns on the battery fronting the bay; and last, 
 though not least, visited several of the ancient and 
 dilapidated churches, that at one time were the 
 pride of the city. 
 
 The Padres of Panama possess a wonderful pen- 
 chant for cock-fighting, at any and all times, Sun- 
 days not excepted, and what they don't know about 
 game-cocks, gaffs and spurs, it would be useless to 
 learn. 
 
 During my stay in Panama, two of the Colum- 
 bus's passengers — Benj. F. Browne, of New York, 
 and Randolph Scott, of Texas — died of cholera. 
 
DEATH OP TWO PASSENGEES. 369 
 
 The best medical attendance was procured, and they 
 received every attention at the hands of their 
 fellow-passengers, but human aid was of no avail. 
 They died in a foreign land, far away from home 
 and kindred. 
 
 21 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Leave Panama — To Cruces on mule back — Down the Chagres 
 River in a hungo — Deaths by cholera en route — ^Mr. and 
 Mrs. Gillingham — Go on board the steamship Falcon — 
 Deaths by cholera — Burial at sea — -Arrival at Havana — 
 An afternoon and night on shore — ^Take passage on the 
 steamship Ohio for New York — Arrival at New York — 
 Departure for Philadelphia — Home again. 
 
 Having learned from the agent in Panama, that 
 the steamship Falcon would leave Chagres on the 
 13th of September, thirteen of the Columbus's pas- 
 sengers, including myself, formed a party to cross 
 the Isthmus, and, on the morning of the 6th, held 
 a meeting at the Louisiana Restaurant, appointed a 
 committee to engage mules and caterers to provide 
 provisions for the journey, and early on the morning 
 of the 8th, we mounted our animals in front of the 
 restaurant, and started for Cruces, distant 22 miles. 
 The first six or eight miles of our journey was over 
 what the natives termed a mucha bueno road, but 
 the balance of the road was mucha malo in the 
 strongest sense of the term. I hired two mules at 
 $16 each. On one of the animals I packed my 
 trunk and the other I rode. 
 
 Belonging to our party were Mr. and Mrs. R. P. 
 Gillingham, of Philadelphia. Mrs. Gillingham 
 
 (370) 
 
DIFFICULTIES OP MULE-KIDING. 371 
 
 having neglected to provide herself with a Bloomer 
 costume, had either to ride a mule attired in her 
 usual dress and take the chances of being dumped 
 into the first slough she attempted to cross, or 
 submit to the novel mode of riding on the back of 
 a nude native, lashed in a chair. She adopted the 
 latter mode of conveyance, and arrived safely at 
 Cruces. Mr. Gillingham had arrived in San Fran- 
 cisco early in August, and at the expiration of two 
 weeks his courage had so completely oozed out that 
 he engaged passage for himself and wife on the first 
 homeward-bound steamer. 
 
 Our pack-mules were addicted to the annoying 
 habit of turning their loads whenever it suited 
 their inclination, which caused us to scold the 
 muleteers in bad Spanish, and the muleteers to 
 belabor and curse the mules in a manner that 
 proved them to be no novices at the business. Any 
 one who has heard an Isthmus muleteer swear 
 must be thoroughly convinced that profanity is his 
 chief stock in trade. One of our party had the 
 misfortune to bestride a recreant mule, probably a 
 lineal descendant of the donkey chastised by Balaam, 
 which bolted into the woods, threw his rider, and 
 bruised him quite severely. I had the good fortune 
 to select a gentler, though a very small animal, 
 somewhat larger than a Sacramento grandfather 
 rat, and he carried me safely to Cruces. As we 
 commenced ascending the mountains the road grew 
 worse, and we made very slow progress. 
 
 Night overtook us at a ranch 8 miles from 
 Cruces, where we tied up until morning. I drank 
 
372 THREE SADDLE-MULES VAMOSE. 
 
 two cups of a villainous compound called coflfee, and 
 turned into a grass hammock, whicli 
 
 " Swung loose at the sport of the ■wind ;" 
 
 but, owing to the combined attacks of an army of 
 mosquitoes and fleas, I slept very little during the 
 night. 
 
 In the early part of the evening, one of the 
 Columbus's passengers was attacked with cholera, 
 but, owing to good nursing during the night, he 
 was able to be transported on a litter to Cruces next 
 day. At daylight we awoke the muleteers and 
 sent them after the animals. They returned about 
 eight o'clock with all the mules except three, which 
 they said had vamosed to Panama during the night. 
 The delinquents proved to be saddle animals; 
 consequently three of the party had either to engage 
 fresh mules, which was no easy matter, or walk to 
 Cruces. They concluded to adopt the latter course ; 
 but after walking two miles they engaged mules at 
 a ranch and overtook us as we were entering Cruces 
 at eleven o'clock, A. M. 
 
 At a ranch, 6 miles from Cruces, we saw the 
 corpse of Thomas Robinson, of Illinois. Mr. Robin- 
 son died of cholera two hours previous to our 
 arrival. While we were at the ranch, a friend 
 returned with medicine for the sick man, but it 
 came too late. We buried him under a large tree 
 near the roadside. 
 
 We spent the afternoon making arrangements for 
 our passage to Chagres on the following day. My- 
 self and four others chartered a large bungo for |50, 
 
FROM CRUCES TO CHAGEES. 373 
 
 to convey ourselves and baggage to Chagres. The 
 owner of the bungo swore by all the saints in the 
 Spanish calendar, that he would be ready to start 
 down the river at daylight next morning ; and with 
 this assurance we retired for the night. Friend 
 Tittle and myself spread our blankets on the 
 ground-floor of a bamboo hut, and turned in for a 
 night's rest ; but owing to a carnival held by the 
 fleas over our bodies, we slept very little. Next 
 morning our party was at the bungo at the appointed 
 hour, but the boatman had not arrived. We soon 
 found him, however, and at six o'clock, A. M., we 
 shoved into the stream, and the current in a few 
 moments hurried us out of sight of Cruces. We 
 passed Gorgona early in the morning, and at one 
 o'clock, P. M., dined at the ranch of the " Two 
 Brothers," situated about halfway between Cruces 
 and Chagres. Soon after leaving this place, the 
 rain descended in torrents. It appeared as though 
 the flood-gates of heaven were open. Had not two 
 of our party kept constantly bailing the bungo 
 during the shower, it certainly would have been 
 swamped. When the rain ceased, the sun shone 
 forth in all its splendor, and during the remainder 
 of the day we were as comfortable as the circum- 
 stances of our case would admit of. A wet jacket 
 at any time is unpleasant, but as this was the first 
 and only shower experienced during our journey 
 across the Isthmus, we bore up under it man- 
 fully, and considered that we had been highly 
 favored by the elements. We reached Chagres at 
 
374 ANOTHER DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 six o'clock^ P. M., having made the run down the 
 river in twelve hours, including stoppages. 
 
 On the passage down the river, I saw several 
 alligators and iguanas without number. On the 
 boughs of the trees and on the banks of the river, 
 I saw parrots, paroquets, and other birds of beau- 
 tiful plumage. In the forest, on both sides of the 
 river, monkeys were constantly chattering. 
 
 While shifting our baggage into a surf-boat, pre- 
 paratory to going on board the steamship Falcon, a 
 canoe arrived with the remains of Colonel Prig- 
 more, of Saline County, Missouri, who died of 
 cholera just before reaching Chagres. Colonel 
 Prigmore was the gentleman, before alluded to, 
 attacked with cholera at the ranch 8 miles from 
 Cruces, on the night of the 8th. 
 
 At half-past seven o'clock on the evening of Sep- 
 tember 10th, I stepped into a surf-boat and was 
 soon on board the steamer Falcon, commanded by 
 Captain Hartstein, U. S. Navy, lying in Chagres 
 Roads, distant from the town about a mile. There 
 was a heavy swell setting into the mouth of the 
 Chagres Kiver and dashing against the battlements 
 of the old fort, but the surf-boat rode safely over the 
 rollers. I went at once to the office of the clerk for 
 the number of my state-room and berth, having 
 purchased a through-ticket in San Francisco with 
 the express understanding that I should have a 
 saloon or first-cabin state-room on board the Falcon. 
 I was informed by the clerk that all the first-class 
 state-rooms had been taken ; and, moreover, that 
 the agent in San Francisco was not authorized to 
 
DEATHS BY CHOLERA. 
 
 375 
 
 sell tlirougli-tickets. After considerable parleying, 
 a berth was assigned me in the " house on deck," 
 where I found some half a dozen others of the 
 through-ticket victims, similarly situated. Some 
 consoled themselves with the idea that they would 
 obtain satisfaction from the agent on their return to 
 California; others, that they would probably never 
 travel the route again, and, like true philosophers, 
 they made the best of a bad bargain. 
 
 On the night of the 11th, Daniel Norcross, 
 Special Mail Agent, arrived with the mail, and at 
 half-past one o'clock on the following morning, the 
 Falcon weighed anchor and started for Havana, 
 where she arrived at eight o'clock, A. M., on the 
 17th. During the passage between Chagres and 
 Havana, the following persons died of cholera : 
 
 Captain Barnabas Kirby, Mass., died Sept. lltb, 
 
 Eobt. T. Lawrence, Brooklyn, N. Y., " " 12th, 
 
 Elias Orton, Iowa, . . . " " 12th, 
 
 William Beal, Michigan, . . " " 12th, 
 
 Ismael Worthington, Ohio, . . " " 13th, 
 
 McGowan, N. Y., . . " " 13th, 
 
 James H. Frye, Missouri, . . " " 13th, 
 
 Captain Elisha Clark, Maine, . " " 13th, 
 
 Captain Augustus Norton, " . " '' 14th, 
 
 Sol. Joseph, "Western Islands, . " " 14th, 
 
 John Pinchatich, Trieste, Austria, " " 15th, 
 
 Captain Kiohard Macy, Maine, . " " 16th, 
 
 J. Spaulpaugh, N. Y., . . . " " 16th, 
 
 William Maynard, Conn., . . " " 16th, 
 
 Crawford Eiddel, Philadelphia, Pa., " " 16th, 
 
 James Campbell, Ireland, . . " " 16th, 
 
 Downing, Missouri, . . " " 16th, 
 
 Gates, Indiana, . . . " " 17th. 
 
376 A BtJKIAL AT SEA. 
 
 Captain Kirby died while the Falcon was lying 
 off Chagres, and his body was sent ashore and 
 buried at that place. The others, who died during 
 the passage, were buried at sea. 
 
 A burial at sea is a solemn scene. "All hands to 
 bury the dead !" is piped by the boatswain, amid 
 the tolling of the ship's bell, and with the flag at 
 half-mast, the corpse, wrapped in a sheet or blanket 
 and incased in a canvas sack with a heavy weight 
 at its feet, is placed on a plank in the gangway. 
 The Episcopal burial service is read by the 
 Chaplain or Captain, and at its conclusion, a tilt of 
 the plank, a thud, a splash in the water and all that 
 is mortal of the deceased is ingulfed beneath the 
 waves of the ocean, there to remain until the last 
 great day, when this globe shall dissolve, and the 
 grave and the sea shall give up their dead. 
 
 Out of the twenty cases of cholera on board the 
 Falcon only three were saved; and two of these 
 were treated by Dr. J. Hobart Birge, of Sacra- 
 mento City, a passenger on the Falcon, to whom 
 many thanks are due for his kindness and attention 
 to his sick and dying fellow-passengers on the 
 Isthmus as well as On board the Falcon and the 
 Ohio. The surgeon of the Falcon treated eighteen 
 cases of cholera, and saved only one ! 
 
 The accommodations for the sick on board the 
 Falcon were most miserable, and the treatment of 
 the passengers, in cabin and steerage, did not meet 
 their expectations. They expected to fare as well 
 on the Atlantic as on the Pacific, but they were 
 disappointed so far as the Falcon was concerned. 
 
A EIDE THKOUGH HAVANA. 377 
 
 During those five memorable days passed on 
 board tlie Falcon, my friend Tittle became sadly 
 demoralized. Whenever a corpse was consigned to 
 the deep, he imagined that his turn would come 
 next, and it was with great difiiculty that I could 
 divert his mind from the gloomy surroundings. 
 The pall of death seemed to enshroud all on board. 
 He gave me the address of his wife, and requested 
 me to take charge of his gold-dust and other effects 
 in case of his death. By way of consolation I re- 
 minded him of the old adage about those born to be 
 hanged, etc., and he finally came to the conclusion 
 that he was not a subject for the cholera. 
 
 On our arrival in the harbor of Havana, we were 
 informed that we would be quarantined and not 
 permitted to visit the city. We had anticipated 
 this. Imagine our surprise then, on being informed, 
 a few hours later, that the taboo had been removed, 
 and we could go ashore at twelve o'clock, M. This 
 news was hailed with joy by all on board, and at 
 one o'clock, P. M., nearly every passenger was on 
 shore enjoying himself to his heart's content. Dan 
 Norcross and myself chartered a volante for two 
 hours, and, seating ourselves in the vehicle, ordered 
 the postillion to trot us through the principal 
 thoroughfares of the city. Jehu, an African as 
 black as the ace of spades, who, by-the-by, was 
 incased to his hips in boots as black and shiny as 
 his countenance, mounted the horse attached to the 
 volante, and cracking his whip, we started off at a 
 brisk pace, up one street and down another ; now 
 threading a narrow lane, and now rattling over the 
 
378 GO ON BOAED THE OHIO. 
 
 pavement of a wide and beautiful street, lined on 
 either side by sbade and fruit trees, that perfumed 
 the air with their fragrance. 
 
 We hurried through the city at John Gilpin 
 speed, and from the expression of the countenances 
 of the little urchins, who threw up their tiny hands 
 and cheered us as we passed, I believe they wished 
 us much joy, and also that they might be present 
 when we rode again. Boots performed his duty 
 faithfully ; and at the expiration of two hours, set 
 us down in Palace Square, the place from whence 
 we had started, and received his fee — $1 — the 
 cheapest ride between New York and California, 
 at least I thought so at the time. 
 
 Havana is a beautiful city, and its harbor and 
 surrounding scenery, with the exception of Eio de 
 Janeiro and Naples, the most romantic in the world. 
 In the evening I sauntered about Palace Square, 
 which was crowded with the beauty and fashion of 
 the gay metropolis, listening to the sweet and soul- 
 inspiring music of the military band. The Havana 
 senoritas are perfect houris, and, had I been a 
 bachelor, the steamship Ohio would probably have 
 had one passenger less to New York. I remained 
 on shore during the night, and at six o'clock next 
 morning went on board the FalGon and transferred 
 my baggage to the Ohio, Captain J. Finley Schenck, 
 U. S. Navy. The Ohio left Havana at half-past 
 nine o'clock on the morning of the 18th of Sep- 
 tember, and arrived in New York at eleven o'clock, 
 P. M., on the 22d, performing the passage in four 
 days and fourteen hours. 
 
A MOST AGREEABLE CHANGE. 379 
 
 Oa the day we left Havana, the following pas- 
 sengers died of cholera and were buried at sea : 
 
 Captain Ira Gould, Huntington, L. I. 
 George Howell, Sag Harbor, " 
 
 William Fields, Providence, E. I. 
 A. Spencer, East Greenwich, " 
 
 The passengers on board the Ohio had no cause 
 of complaint. Captain Schenck and his officers did 
 everything in their power to render all on board as 
 comfortable as possible. The table was bountifully 
 supplied, and the servants were attentive and 
 obliging — a marked contrast to the treatment on 
 board the Falcon. The following resolutions were 
 adopted, and a copy presented to Captain Schenck : 
 
 On boaed Steamship Ohio, 
 At Sea, Sept. 21st, 1850. 
 
 At a meeting of the passengers held on board this ship, to 
 express their feelings of regard for Captain Schenck and the 
 officers under his command. Judge Woodrooff, of New Orleans, 
 was called to the chair, and E. P. Gillingham, of Philadelphia, 
 appointed Secretary. The following gentlemen were appointed 
 a committee to draft suitable resolutions : Samuel C. Upham, 
 Philadelphia ; James H. Brown, Baltimore ; W. H. Bowditch, 
 Boston; Captain Thomas F. Knowles, Baltimore, and D. S. 
 Hunt, of New York, who presented the following resolutions, 
 which were unanimously adopted : 
 
 Resolved, That we tender to Captain J. Finley Schenck our 
 sincere and heartfelt thanks for the courteous manner in which 
 he has borne himself toward all on board, and more especially 
 for his kindly treatment of our sick and dying fellow-passengers 
 since our departure from Havana. His skill as a commander, 
 and other commendable qualities, will ever entitle him io our 
 warmest regards ; and we trust that through the voyage of life 
 
380 HOME AGAIN! 
 
 lie may ever be favored witli fair winds, and at last let go Ms 
 anchor in tlie haven of eternal rest. 
 
 Resolved, That, through Captaia Schenck, we extend our 
 warmest thanks to the other officers of the Ohio, for their 
 gentlemanly and officer-like deportment during the present 
 passage between Havana and New York. 
 
 Resolved, That the proceedings of this meeting be published 
 in the New York Herald, Philadelphia Ledger, Baltimore Sun, 
 and Boston Post, and that a manuscript copy of the same be 
 presented to Captain Schenck by the Secretary. 
 
 C. WOODROOFF, President. 
 
 E. P. GiLLiNGHAM, Secretary. 
 
 I arrived in Nevf York thirty-eight days after 
 my departure from San Francisco, including stop- 
 pages, ^ix days' detention en route deducted, leave 
 thirty-two days traveling time between the two 
 places. On the afternoon of the 23d, I left for 
 Philadelphia to join my better-half and little ones, 
 and the re-union, after a separation of nearly two 
 years, can be better imagined than described. 
 
 When I left California, it was my intention 
 to return the following year with my family, 
 but "man proposes and God disposes." Life's 
 current has drifted me into other channels; the 
 heyday of life has passed, and now, at the age of 
 threescore I despair of again visiting the land 
 where 
 
 " The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit, ' 
 And the breezes blow soft as the tones of the lute. 
 The orange-tree blossoms and fruits in the vale. 
 The date and pomegranate, 'mid sand and the shale, 
 The filbert and almond, and manna of yore, 
 All abound in the land that I love and adore." 
 
VALEDICTIOlSr. 381 
 
 The kaleidoscope of life is constantly changing. 
 The life of man is but a span — here to-day and 
 gone to-morrow. The Argonauts of 'Forty-nine 
 are fast falling by the roadside and being gathered 
 to their fathers. Reader, as you pass down the 
 pathway of life, culling flowers by the wayside, 
 should you chance to meet one of those wayworn 
 Argonauts, one of those old grizzlies of the Sierras, 
 who has never "builded a city nor founded an 
 empire," but who did assist in adding to the con- 
 stellation of States of our glorious Union one of its 
 brightest and sunniest stars, the Eureka State, 
 Queen of the Pacific, treat him kindly, and when 
 he shall have passed from earth, place upon his 
 grave a wreath of immortelles, and God will bless 
 you. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
PIONEER JOURNALISM IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 ThePactficNews — I tg editors and proprietors — "Boston," ah'as "Big 
 Ames " — First newspaper published in California — The AUa Cali- 
 fornia — Sacramento Transcript and Placer Times — The Golden 
 Era — Bret Harte, Mark Twain and Prentice Mulford — San Fran- 
 cisco Picayune, Courier and Herald — Marysville Herald — Stock- 
 ton Times — Sonora Herald. 
 
 The following sketch, published originally in Rowell's 
 Newspaper Reporter and subsequently elaborated and pub- 
 lished in N. W. Ayer & Son's Advertiser's Guide, has 
 been corrected and still further elaborated, and, in its 
 present form, is believed to be a correct and impartial 
 history of Pioneer Journalism in California: 
 
 On my return to San Francisco from the Calaveras 
 mines, in the month of October, 1849, I applied to the 
 proprietors of the Paeifio News for permission to canvass 
 for a carrier's route on their journal. After a long inter- 
 view, during which the project was thoroughly discussed, 
 pro and con, I obtained the sole and exclusive right to 
 canvass for subscribers and serve the Pacific News in the 
 city of San Francisco and suburbs, which latter included 
 Happy Valley and the adjacent sand-hills. 
 
 Mr. Falkner, the senior proprietor of the News, prior to 
 emigrating to California, published a paper in Norwich, 
 Connecticut. When the gold fever broke out in the New 
 England States Mr. F. was one of its first victims. He 
 packed up his printing-office, and engaging passage for 
 himself and two sons on board a vessel, sailed for the 
 22 (385) 
 
386 THE PACIFIC NEWS ITS STAFF. 
 
 modern El Dorado, via Cape Horn. At Valparaiso, he 
 made the acquaintance of ^Varren Leland, one of the pro- 
 prietors of the Clinton Hotel, New York, en route to the 
 gold-diggings of California. Leland having an eye to 
 business, proposed to enter into copartnership with 
 Falkner upon their arrival at San Francisco. His 
 proposition was accepted; and immediately upon reaching 
 San Francisco, a frame building was hastily constructed on 
 Kearney Street, and on the 25th of August, the first 
 number of the Pacifio News'was published, with Falkner 
 as editor, and Leland as business manager. A few 
 weeks subsequently, Charles Fames, of Washington, 
 D. C, appoiilted by President Polk consul to the 
 Hawaiian Islands, arrived in San Francisco en route, but 
 was prevailed upon by Falkner and Leland to forego his 
 mission, locate in San Francisco, and assume editorial 
 charge of the Neivs, at a salary of $500 per month. As 
 the election and inauguration of Zachary Taylor, as Pres- 
 ident of the United States, had rendered the recall -of Mr. 
 Fames a foregone conclusion, that gentleman considered 
 discretion the better part of valor, and accepted the editor- 
 ship of the News. 
 
 Simultaneously with the engagement of Mr. Fames as 
 editor-in-chief, a tall, lank, hirsute Yankee of the name of 
 Ames alias " Boston," was engaged as a local reporter of 
 the News. Ames subsequently published in San Diego, 
 California, a wealdy paper, called the Herald, which for a 
 single week was edited by " John Phoenix," the Califor- 
 nia humorist. During the temporary absence of Ames, 
 Phoenix changed the politics of the Herald from red-hot 
 Democratic to Whig, which so exasperated Ames that a 
 free fight occurred in the composing-room. During the 
 melee, the forms were knocked into pi, and tlie com- 
 batants became so thoroughly mixed, that t'other couldn't 
 be distinguished from which. Phoenix, in his published 
 .account of the fight, claimed he won the victory by insertr 
 
THE FIEST AND SECOND PAPEES. 387 
 
 ing his nose between the teeth of Ames, and holding him 
 down until he cried peceavi ! 
 
 The Paoifia News was the first tri-weekly, and at that 
 time the third paper published in California, the other two 
 being the Alta California, published in San Francisco by 
 Gilbert & Kemble, and the Placer Tiroes, published at 
 Sacramento City by E. Gilbert & Co., and edited by 
 Jesse Giles, both weekly sheets, and small patterns at that, 
 the latter being foolscap size. 
 
 The Monterey Californian was the first newspaper 
 issued in California. It was published and edited by Rev. 
 Walter Colton, a Chaplain of the United States Navy, 
 and Dr. Robert Semple. The type was principally Long 
 Primer, an old Spanish fount, badly worn and battered. 
 There being no "W " in the Spanish alphabet, two " Vs " 
 were substituted for that letter. The press was an old 
 " Ramage," which had been used by the Mexican function- 
 aries for printing their edicts and other public papers. 
 The first number of the Californian was issued in the 
 summer of 1846, and was printed on an inferior quality of 
 paper, used for tobacco wrappers. Mr. John R. Gould, 
 at present a resident of Baltimore, Maryland, and Secretary 
 of the " Maryland Association of Veterans of the Mexican 
 "War," with the assistance of a boy, set the type, worked 
 oiF the paper and kept the books of the office. Mr. B. P. 
 Kooser, a corporal in the United States Army, was com- 
 positor and pressman on the Californian in 1847. Mr. 
 Ivooser subsequently for several years published and edited 
 the Sentinel at Santa Cruz, California, and was a commis- 
 sioner from that State at the Centennial Exhibition. 
 
 The second paper published in California was the Cal- 
 ifornia Star, the first number of which was issued at San 
 Francisco, on the 9th day of January, 1847. It was a 
 weekly sheet, a trifle larger than the Californian, and was 
 published by Sam Brannan, and edited by E. P. Jones. 
 The press on which the Star was printed was a tolerably 
 
388 STAK AND CALIFOENIAN MERGED. 
 
 good one, and was afterward used by the Sonora Herald. 
 On the 17th of the following April, Mr. Jones retired 
 from the Star, and Mr. E. C. Kemble assumed editorial 
 charge. The Star was published regularly during the 
 year 1847, the last number of the first volume being issued 
 on the 1st day of January, 1848. 
 
 In the month of May, 1847, the Calif ornian was re- 
 moved from Monterey to San Francisco, and on the 1st of 
 June of that year, the first number of its second volume 
 appeared. The second volume continued on from that 
 time until April, 1848, during which time the paper 
 changed publishers and editors several times. The first 
 number of the second volume of the California Star ap- 
 peared on the 8th of January, 1848, in an enlarged form, 
 and its publication was continued regularly until the 26th 
 of the following May, when the printers vamosed to the 
 mines, and its publication was discontinued. In the month 
 of April, the Calif ornian was discontinued for the same 
 reason. From the last of May until the latter part of 
 June, 1848, California was without a newspaper. 
 
 About the 1st of July, a few printers, who had returned 
 disgusted with the mines, commenced the publication of 
 the third volume of the Californian. It was issued every 
 now and then, without any regard to regularity, until 
 August, 1848, when it recommenced its regular weekly 
 issues, under the editorial management of H. I. Sheldon. 
 In September of the same year, Mr. Kemble returned from 
 the mines, purchased the Californian, also the interests of 
 bis partners in the Star, and united the two papers under 
 the name of the Star and Californian, and recommenced 
 its publication where the Star had stopped, Vol. Ill, 
 No. 24. The Star and Californian was the only paper 
 then published in California, and was issued weekly until 
 the last of December, 1848, when it was discontinued, and 
 on the 1st of January, 1849, Mr. Kemble united with 
 himself Messrs. Gilbert and Hubbard, and commenced 
 
ALTA CALIFORNIA AND PLACER TIMES. "389 
 
 the publication of the Alta California. The Alta California 
 Avas published weekly, until the 10th of December, 1849, 
 when it was issued tri-weekly, and after the 23d of 
 January, 1850, came out daily, simultaneously with the 
 Journal of Commerce, published by W. Bartlett. On the 
 4th of the ensuing March, the Faoifio News also appeared 
 daily. 
 
 The next paper, the fourth started, and the second then 
 published in California was the Placer Times at New 
 Helvetia, Sutter's Fort, afterward Sacramento City. The 
 first number of the Placer Times appeared on the 28th 
 day of April, 1849, and was printed weekly, on a cap 
 sheet, as paper of a larger size could not be obtained. 
 The publishers were E. C. Kemble & Co., the editor being 
 Mr. Kemble. On the 19th of the following June, on ac- 
 count of ill health, Mr. Kemble vacated the editorial chair, 
 and T. R. Per Lee* assumed charge. On the 25th of 
 August, 1849, Mr. Per Lee resigned, and Jesse Giles 
 continued the publication of the paper for E. Gilbert 
 &Co. 
 
 In 1849, very little printing-paper was to be had in 
 California ; but the market was overstocked with unruled 
 foolscap paper, which was substituted for the former. The 
 size of the PacifiG News was a foolscap sheet • and as en- 
 largement was a matter of impossibility, supplementary 
 sheets were added to accommodate advertisers. The price 
 of the News was 12^ cents a copy, or 75 cents a week, 
 payable to the carrier. Steamer editions, published on the 
 first of each month, and printed on wrapping-paper of 
 various colors and qualities, sold at 50 cents a copy. Ad- 
 vertisements were $5 a square, each insertion. 
 
 I experienced little difficulty in getting up a payii^g list 
 of customers for the News. Nearly every one on whom I 
 called gladly subscribed for the paper, and at the end of 
 
 * At this time (September, 1878,) a resident of Baltimore, Maryland, 
 
390 A NEW FIRM, PTJBLISHEES OP 
 
 each week paid me promptly. I had scarcely become 
 accustomed to my new vocation, when the situation of 
 book-keeper was tendered to me by the proprietors of the 
 News, with a salary of $100 a week. I sold my carrier's 
 route for $200, and accepted the situation, which I held 
 until the following spring. 
 
 In the month of March, 1850, there arrived in the har- 
 bor of San Francisco a ship from New Orleans, with an 
 assorted cargo, among which was a second-hand printing 
 office, with some thirty reams of printing-paper. The 
 type, presses (a card and hand press), paper, ink, etc., were 
 invoiced in New Orleans at $950, but were valued in San 
 Francisco at $15,000, and could have been sold for that 
 amount in coin, as printing material was very scarce, and 
 " sorts " were worth their weight in gold. Mr. G. K. Fitch, 
 the owner of the printing material, proposed to five of the 
 attaches of the Paeifio News — F. C. Ewer, H. S. Warren, 
 J. M. Julian, T. Eussell and S. C. Upham — ^the formation 
 of a copartnership, with a view to the publication of a 
 paper in Sacramento City. The proposition was accepted, 
 articles of agreement executed, and on the 1st day of April, 
 1850, the initial number of the Saoramento Transcript was 
 issued by Fitch, Upham & Co. The Transcript was pub- 
 lished tri-weekly during the months of April and May, 
 and on the 1st of June it became a daily. It was printed 
 on a folio sheet, in Brevier and Nonpareil type. A steamer 
 edition, for circulation in the Atlantic States, was printed 
 on the first of each month. The daily sold at 12 J cents a 
 copy, and tlie steamer edition at 50 cents a copy. Adver- 
 tisements were inserted at $4 per square, each insertion. 
 The six copartners occupied the following positions on the 
 paper: G. K. Fitch, heavy and fighting editor; F. C. 
 Ewer, literary editor ; H. S. Warren, foreman ; J. M. Ju- 
 lian, compositor ; T. Russell, pressman, and S. C. Upham, 
 local reporter, printer's devil, business manager, "dead- 
 head," etc. 
 
THE SACKAMENTO TRAIfSCEIPT. 391 
 
 The Sacramento Transcript was the fifth newspaper pub- 
 lished on the Pacific coast, and the first daily out of San 
 Francisco published in California. Ten days later, the 
 10th of June, the Placer Times came out daily. The 
 Transcript was a financial success from the start, but as 
 the gold rolled in, its proprietors rolled out. Mr. Julian 
 retired before the expiration of the second month, and the 
 business manager a -month later, having sold his interest 
 in the Transcript for $10,000 * to Mr. G. C.Weld, California 
 correspondent of the New York Journal of Commerce. 
 Mr. Weld was a model business man as well as a versatile 
 and graceful writer. Had he lived, he would have made 
 ^ shining mark in California journalism. Being of a deli- 
 cate and fragile organization, his system was prostrated by 
 the vicissitudes of pioneer life, and within six weeks from 
 the time he became one of the proprietors of the Transcript 
 he passed from earth to that bourn whence no traveler 
 returns. The Transcript, after the death of Mr. Weld, 
 being without a competent business manager, began to 
 wane. It was afterward merged into the Placer Times, 
 another sickly daily at that time ; but after the consolida- 
 tion, the new enterprise was a success. A year later the 
 Times and Transcript was removed to San Francisco, and 
 took a leading position as a Democratic organ. In June, 
 1853, Pickering & Fitch sold the paper for $30,000 to 
 Geiger, Washington & Kerr. It died in 1856 of a Demo- 
 cratic controversy. Too much Tammany killed it ! 
 
 On the 13th of April, two weeks after the advent of the 
 Transcript in Sacramento City, the Placer Times, then 
 under the editorial management of Colonel J. E. Lawrence, 
 came out tri-weekly. Early in the following October, E. 
 Gilbert & Co. disposed of the Times to Messrs. Pickering, 
 Lawrence & Co., the former gentleman assuming the chair 
 of senior editor. Colonel J. E. Lawrence, the junior 
 
 * Three thousand dollars cash, and the notes of the purchaser for the 
 balance. The notes were not paid. Mr. Weld's death cancelled them. 
 
392 DEBUT OP SOME CELEBEITIES. 
 
 editor and one of the most genial and companionable 
 gentlemen it has ever been my good fortune to meet, 
 arrived in California early in '49, overland, via Mexico 
 and Lower California, by mule express. Soon after the 
 collapse of the Times and Transcript, Colonel Lawrence 
 either started or purchased an interest in the San Francisco 
 Golden Era, the leading literary journal of the. Pacific 
 coast, and assumed its editorial management. 
 
 The Qolden Era was the alma mater, and Colonel Joe 
 Lawrence the godfather of Bret Harte, Prentice Mulford, 
 Charles Warren Stoddart, Dinsmore, the dramatizer of 
 Mark Twain's " Gilded Age," Minnie Myrtle, and a host 
 of lesser lights, whose early lucubrations first appeared in . 
 that journal. Bret Harte was for a short time compositor 
 in the office of the Golden Era, the situation having been 
 obtained through the intercession of his sister, an occasional 
 contributor, and his first two productions were published 
 anonymously in that journal, while he was working at 
 case. When the authorship of the sketches became known, 
 the Golden Era lost an indifierent compositor, but added 
 to its staff of litterateurs a rough diamond, which, with 
 ■careful polishing, ere long became a gem of the first water. 
 
 Steve Massett, " Jeems Pipes of Pipesville," was one of 
 ithe early birds, having arrived in San Francisco early in 
 '49. Mark Twain, Bret Harte, Prentice Mulford and 
 Dinsmore arrived later, although it is generally believed 
 by archseologists that Mark Twain started for California 
 immediately after the deluge, but owing to snags in the 
 Mississippi River and scientific researches en route, did not 
 actually arrive in California until A. D. 1852. The first 
 opening that occurred after his arrival in San Francisco was 
 caused by an earthquake. This event so exasperated Mark, 
 that he immediately laid in a box of pipes, a barrel of 
 smoking tobacco and a few kegs of lager as small stores, 
 and sailed direct for the Sandwich Islands, where for 
 several years he hobnobbed with King Kamehameha, and 
 
SEVEEAL FIEST NUMBEES. 393 
 
 played "Jumping Frog of the Calaveras," for the amuse- 
 ment of Prince Kalakaua and other sprigs of Kanaka 
 royalty. 
 
 Prentice Mulford, after wasting his sweetness fourteen 
 years in California, during which time he was by turns pro- 
 spector, miner, politician, pedagogue and litterateur, quietly 
 folded his tent, and hied himself to " merrie England," 
 where, like a sensible man, he took unto himself a better- 
 half, and is now striving to fulfill the scriptural injunction, 
 " Increase and multiply." Mr. Mulford's letters to the 
 San Francisco Evening Bulletin, during his sojourn in 
 England, France and Austria, gained for him an enviable 
 reputation, and his " Centennial Notes " from Philadelphia, 
 contributed to the same journal during the year 1876, 
 place him in the front rank of his profession. Mr. Mulford 
 is also a pleasing lecturer, and if he were to devote his 
 attention to the rostrum, would excel either Bret Harte or 
 Mark Twain. 
 
 On the 16th of March, 1850, Mr. J. White published 
 the first number of the Stockton Times, in the city of 
 Stockton, on the San Joaquin River. The Times was a 
 weekly paper printed on a cap sheet, in Long Primer type. 
 H. H. Radcliff soon afterward purchased an interest in 
 the paper, enlarged it and changed its name to the Stockton 
 Times and Tuolumne City Intelligencer. 
 
 On June 19th, Mr. J. S. Eobb, a native of Philadelphia, 
 and at one time connected with the St. Louis Reveille, 
 issued in Stockton the first number of the semi-weekly 
 Stockton Journal. 
 
 On June 1st, Foy, Nugent & Co. issued the first number 
 of the San Francisco Daily Herald. The Herald was 
 edited by John Nugent, formerly connected with the New 
 York Herald. 
 
 On the 1st of July, the first number of the San Fran- 
 cisco Cour-ier (daily) appeared. It was published and 
 edited by Messrs. Crane & Rice, and was "Whig in poll- 
 
394 FIRST STEAM PEINTING-PEESS. 
 
 tics, being the second political paper in California, the 
 Pacifio News, then edited by Mr. F. C. Ewer, having, in 
 the preceding January, espoused the Democratic cause. 
 On August 3d, John H. Gihon & Co. commenced the 
 publication of the San Francisco Evening Picayune, edited 
 by P. A. Brinsmade. The Picayune was the first evening 
 paper published in California; and its senior proprietor 
 was a native of Philadelphia. 
 
 The first number of the Sonora Herald (weekly) was 
 published on July 4th, by J. White & J. G. Marvin. 
 It was printed on a cap sheet, and in Long Primer type. 
 The semi-weekly Marysmlle Herald made its first appear- 
 ance on the 6th of August. It was published and edited 
 by P. H. Taylor. The size of the paper was a cross be- 
 tween cap and folio post. 
 
 I will here state that to Mr. Edward Connor, formerly 
 of the New York Herald, is due the credit of having 
 brought the first steam-power printing-press to California. 
 It was a Napier press, made by P. Hoe & Co., and arrived 
 in May, 1850. The first paper printed by steam-power in 
 California was the Alta California. When the writer left 
 California, in the month of August, 1850, the Alta Cali- 
 fornia, Pacific News, Journal of Commerce, California 
 Courier, Herald and Evening Picayune, of San Francisco, 
 the Transcript and Placer Times, of Sacramento City, the 
 Times and Journal, of Stockton, and the Sonora Herald 
 and Marysmlle Herald were the only newspapers published 
 in that State, and with a single exception — the Oregonian, 
 at Portland, Oregon — the only journals published on the 
 Pacific coast north of Mazatlan. 
 
 The Pacific News had changed proprietors, and in Au- 
 gust, 1850, was edited by General Jonas Winchester, a 
 former associate of Horace Greeley in the New-Yorker. 
 The Evening Picayune was at that time edited by Dr. John 
 H. Gihon, private secretary to Colonel John W. Geary, 
 then Mayor of San Francisco. The late General John W. 
 
THE CHANGES OP TIME. 395 
 
 Geary was the last Alcalde and the first Mayor of Saa 
 Francisco, and I am quite certain that city has never since 
 been governed more ably or satisfactorily. As a brother- 
 pioneer and 'Forty-niner, I feel an honest pride in the 
 brilliant record achieved during the war of the rebellion 
 by the first Mayor of San Francisco. May his laurels 
 ever remain green in the hearts of his countrymen. 
 
 Twenty-six years have wrought wonderful changes in 
 California, as well as along the entire northern Pacific 
 coast. Old landmarks have become almost entirely oblite- 
 rated. San Francisco, with her few dozens of adobe and 
 frame structures in 1849, and a population of less than 
 1,500 souls, at the present time contains a population of 
 300,000, and is the second commercial city on the western 
 continent. When the agricultural resources of the Pacific 
 slope shall have become as fully and thoroughly developed 
 as its mineral, New York must look to her laurels. The 
 press has fully kept pace with other improvements. I 
 have before me a list of 283 newspapers and periodicals 
 published at this time in the States of California and Ore- 
 gon. At present there are published in San Francisco 16 
 dailies, 43 weeklies, 1 semi-weekly, 15 monthlies and semi- 
 monthlies. In the State there are published 239 journals 
 and periodicals, of which 47 are daily papers. The ave- 
 rage circulation is 2,035. Taking the last census as a 
 basis, the ratio of newspapers and periodicals published in 
 California is larger, according to population, than any 
 other State of the Union, being 90 copies yearly to each 
 inhabitant. The State of New York is second on the list, 
 with 89 yearly copies to each inhabitant. 
 
 The San Francisco Evening Bulletin and the Morning 
 Call, partly owned and controlled by Mr. G. K. Fitch, my 
 former associate in the Sacramento Transcript, are ably-con- 
 ducted journals and are said to be the best paying news- 
 paper properties in California. Mr. Fitch's associates in the 
 Bulletin and Call are Mr. L. Pickering, formerly one of 
 
396 THE OLD JOTJENALISTS OF '49-'50, 
 
 the editors and proprietors of the Placer Times, and Mr. 
 J. W. Simonton, agent of the New York "Associated 
 Press," both experienced and able journalists. The Bul- 
 letin has always been a terror to evil-doers, and Mr. Fitch, 
 the head and front of that journal, has, by his honest, able 
 and judicious management, earned the deserved title of the 
 Horace Greeley of the Pacific Coast — but will never run 
 for President. Few of the journalists connected with the 
 California press in 1849-'50 now reside in the State of 
 their early labors ; Fitch and Pickering being the only 
 ones now in working harness. B. P. Kooser,* veteran 
 pioneer printer, has recently vacated the sanctum of the 
 Santa Cruz Sentinel, and now sits under his own vine and 
 fig-tree in that beautiful semi-tropical city by the sea, sur- 
 rounded by the idols of his heart — wife and children. 
 Mr. F. C. Ewer has given the flesh and the devil the cold 
 shoulder, donned sacerdotal robes, and is at present rector 
 of St. Ignatius Church, New York City. Messrs. Kemble 
 and Russell are also residents of the latter city. Some 
 twenty years since, Mr. Gilbert was killed by General 
 Denver, in a duel at Oak Grove, near Sacramento City. 
 
 Colonel Joe Lawrence has retired to the classic shades of 
 Bay City, Long Island, where he presides with dignity over 
 the Society for the "Prevention of Cruelty to Animals," nurses 
 that same old meerschaum and luxuriates on cold tea with a 
 stick in it.f Charles Fames returned to Washington, D. C, 
 
 * Deceased since the above was written. 
 
 f Death op Colonjel Joseph E. Lawbence — The telegraph an- 
 nounces the death at Tom's Kiver, N. J., of Colonel Joseph E. Law- 
 rence, of Flushing, Long Island, one of the old newspaper men of this 
 coast. Colonel Lawrence came to this State in 1849. In the following 
 year he was employed by E. Gilbert & Co. to edit the Placer Times, at 
 Sacramento. Subsequently he became a partner of Loring Pickering 
 in the publication of the same journal. In 1851 the Times and the 
 Transcrvpl, another Sacramento paper, were merged into one, and during 
 the following year the paper was moved to this city. Colonel Lawrence 
 continued his connection with the Times and Transcript till 1854. After 
 that he was one of the proprietors of the Golden Era for a long time. 
 He filled a position in the Custom-house during the administration of 
 B. F. Washington. His latter years were spent between this city and 
 
WAEREN LELAND AND GEN. WINCHESTEE. 397 
 
 practiced law there, was subsequently appointed minister 
 to Ecuador, and died seven or eight years ago. Dr. John 
 H. Gihon is also dead. Warren Leland returned to Cali- 
 fornia a few years since and managed the " Grand Palace 
 Hotel," in San Francisco, until quite recently, when he 
 returned to New York city, where he now resides. General 
 Jonas Winchester, the veteran journalist, is at this time a 
 resident of Grass Yalley, California. 
 
 New York, where he was highly connected. For a considerable period 
 he also had a, lucrative place in the Custom-house of the latter city. 
 Colonel Lawrence was one of those genial men who never make an 
 enemy. In his more youthful days he was remarkable for the neatness 
 of his dress and his personal beauty. As a newspaper man he took fair 
 rank, though his writings as a general thing were more suited for the 
 literary weekly than the daily newspaper. They were, for the most 
 part, of the easy-chair, sunshiny sort, which one wishes to read in 
 dressing-gown and slippers. For the last three or four years of his life 
 Colonel Lawrence had undergone a great change, supposed to have been 
 the result of sunstroke in New York. He had become careless in his 
 dress and inert, but he never lost his good nature and pleasant manners. 
 He will long hold a place in the memory of the old members of the pro- 
 fession. One of his most remarkable traits was his open-handedness. 
 He was willing to share almost all he had with his friends. If he had 
 not been so generous he might have been a rich man. As it was, the 
 residue of a reasonable fortune — some $12,000 or $13,000 — he took East 
 for the purchase of an old homestead, for which he always manifested 
 the greatest attachment. — San Francisco Bulletin, July 15lh, 1878. 
 
"CALIFORNIA DAY" AT THE CENTENNIAL 
 EXHIBITION. 
 
 Preliminary meeting in New York — Committee appointed — Eev. 
 Albert Williams addresses the meeting — Programme of exercises — 
 'Forty-niners and other Californians present — Distinguished guests 
 — Addresses by Hon. Rodman M. Price, Generals H. G. Gibson 
 and Joe Hooker, Governor Curtin, General Sutter, Governor 
 Hartranft and Colin M. Boyd — "Song of the Argonauts" — The 
 banquet — Fire ! fire 1 — Telegrams senrt to San Francisco. 
 
 At a special meeting of " The Associated Pioneers 
 OP THE Teeeitoeial Days OF Califoenia," held at 
 the Sturtevant House, New York, on the evening of May 
 15th, 1876, General H. Gates Gibson, U. S. A., President, 
 in tlie chair, the following resolutions were unanimously 
 adopted : 
 
 Resolved, That the members of this Society assemble at the 
 Pacific Coast Centennial Hall, Centennial Grounds, 
 Philadelphia, on the 9th day of September next, the tvi'enty- 
 sixth anniversary of the admission of California into the Union, 
 and that all Californians throughout the country be requested, 
 -without further notice, to join with us upon that occasion, in 
 one grand re-union of Californians. 
 
 Resolved, That the Secretary be instructed to furnish copies 
 of the minutes of this meeting to the press of this and other 
 cities, and also to all Californians whose names are registered 
 in the book kept for that purpose by the Society, requesting 
 their co-operation in the movement for a re-union of Califor- 
 nians at Philadelphia, on the 9th day of September next. 
 
 (398) 
 
AKKASTGEMENTS FOE 
 
 "CALIFOENIA DAY." 399 
 
 In compliance with a resolution, the President appointed 
 the following committee to make the necessary arrange- 
 ments in Philadelphia, for the visit of the Society in Sep- 
 tember : Messrs. E. F. Burton, Thomas D. Johns, S. L. 
 Merciiant, John Gault and "W. M. Walton. 
 
 The President appointed the following committee to 
 confer with non-member Californians, and ask their co- 
 operation in the re-union at Philadelphia : Messrs. O. H. 
 Pierson, H. B. Hawkins and John A. Godfrey. 
 
 During the evening, the Rev. Albert "Williams, of San 
 Francisco, Secretary of the Pacific Coast Centennial Com- 
 mittee, addressed the Society, on invitation of the Chair, 
 and gave the details of the building in course of erection 
 at Philadelphia, and stated that it would be ready for 
 occupancy June 1st, and extended the use of the hall to 
 the members of this Society, and all other Californians 
 visiting the Exhibition. 
 
 Upon the conclusion of the remarks of Mr. Williams, 
 the President returned to that gentleman the thanks of the 
 Society. 
 
 At a subsequent meeting of the Society, the programme 
 on the following page was adopted : 
 
400 PEOGEAMME OF EXEKCISES. 
 
 RE-UNION OF CALIFORNIANS 
 
 Under (he auspices of 
 
 Tie Associate! Pioneers of tlie Territorial Days of California, 
 
 (HEAD-QUARTERS IN NEW YORK CITY,) 
 
 AT THE 
 
 PACIFIC COAST CENTENNIAL HALL, 
 
 EXHIBITION GROUNDS, PHILADELPHIA, 
 
 pN Saturday, September^ c)th, 1876, 
 
 AT ONE O'CLOCK, P. M. 
 
 {Twenty-Sixth Anniversary of the Admission of California into the Union.) 
 
 PROGRAMME OF EXERCISES. 
 
 1. INTKODUCTION OF Gen. JOHN A. SUTTEE, hy Pres't Gibson. 
 
 2. MUSIC— "Hail to the Chief." 
 
 3. PEAYER, by Rev. Br. Allen. 
 
 4. ADDEESS OF WELCOME, by General H. G. Gibson. V. S. A., 
 
 President of tlie Associated Pioneers. 
 
 5. MUSIC— '• Centemiial Ode." Geibel. 
 
 G. EEADING OF LETTERS, by the Secretary of the Society. 
 
 7. MUS[C-"OOali&rma!" 
 
 8. ADDRESS, by Son. Hodman M Price, ex-Governor of New Jersey, 
 And a participant with Commodore Sloat in the raising of the American 
 
 Hag at Monterey, California, July 7tli, 1846. 
 
 9. MUSIC—" Star Spangled Banner." 
 
 10. "SONG OF THE ARGONAUTS; OE. DAYS OF M9," 
 
 Composed expressly for this occasion by S. C. Upham, Esq., of Philadelphia. 
 
 aolo by Mr. George A. Conly, Basso of the Kellogg Opera Troupe. 
 
 The audience will please join in the chorus. 
 
 11. MUSIC— "Potpourri. Operatic Airs." 
 BANQUET, at Globe Hotel. 
 
 Music by McClurg's Comet Band. Selections of Music by the Band from 12 o'clock, 
 
 noon, until the commencement of the exercises. Also, appropriate 
 
 Music on the " Centennial Chimes," by Professor Widdows. 
 
 Saturday, September 9th, was a charming autumn day, 
 and at one o'clock, P. M., an audience of seven hundred 
 persons had assembled in the " Pacific Coast Centen- 
 nial Hall." The assemblage was composed mainly of 
 
DISTINGUISHED PIONEEES. 403 
 
 former residents of the Pacific slope ; many of the number 
 being ladies, who heartily enjoyed the festive occasion. 
 Two large and beautiful American flags of California silk, 
 belonging to Mr. Neuman, of that State, arched the space 
 behind the speakers' platform, and strips of bunting 
 around the entire walls and pillars decorated the hall, while 
 McClurg's Cornet Band enlivened the intervals between 
 the speeches, with choice selections of music. Placards 
 with appropriate mottoes also adorned the walls. A large 
 and artistically-executed seal of the Eureka State, com- 
 posed entirely of native woods, and loaned for the occasion 
 by Mr. J. R. Scupham, occupied a prominent position on 
 the speakers' stand. On the platform were seated some 
 half-dozen gentlemen, whose personal history had been 
 more or less identified with the exciting days of the early 
 gold discoveries in the modern El Dorado. Prominent 
 among these was the veteran pioneer. General John A. 
 Sutter, in his seventy-fourth year. Among other repre- 
 sentatives of the first settlers of the Golden State, who 
 occupied seats either on the platform or in the audience, 
 were the following : 
 
 Hon. Rodman M. Price, ex-Governor of New Jersey, 
 who was a participant with Commodore Sloat in the raising 
 of the American flag at Monterey, California, on July 7th, 
 1846; Colin M. Boyd, President of the "Territorial 
 Pioneers of California;" B. P. Kooser, of Santa Cruz, 
 California, one of the Centennial Commissioners from that 
 State, who, in 1847, was engaged as pressman and printer 
 on the Californian, at Monterey, ih^ first newspaper printed 
 in California; Major-General Joseph Hooker, U. S. A., 
 General H. Gates Gibson, U. S. A., John Sickels, Francis 
 D. Clark and wife. General Thomas D. Johns, D. M. 
 Chauncey, S. L. Merchant, William M.Walton, O. H. Pier- 
 son, H. M. Newhall, E. F. Burton, John H. Gardiner and 
 wife, Mrs. Dr. Chas. Blake, William J; Curtis, James E. 
 Nuttmann, Gordon P. Cummings, John H. Trowbridge, 
 23 
 
404 GEN. GIBSON INTEODUCES GEN. SUTTEE. 
 
 John A. Godfrey and wife, Prentice Mulford and wife, Joa- 
 quin Miller, Samuel C. Upham, A. B. Duncan, T. Conklin, 
 J. T. Fisher, James S. "Wethered, and W. Lynch, of Los 
 Angeles, California. There were also present, Governor 
 John F. Hartranft, ex-Governor Andrew G. Curtin, ex- 
 Governor William Bigler and General Jos. E. Hawley, 
 President of the Centennial Commission. 
 
 The exercises commenced at one o'clock, P. M., with a 
 fervent and appropriate prayer, by the Rev. Dr. Allen, of 
 the Old Pine Street Church, who had recently returned 
 from a trip to California. General Sutter was then intro- 
 duced to the audience by President Gibson, in the follow- 
 ing appropriate speech : 
 
 Fbllow-Califoenians, Ladies and Gentlemen: — In 
 accordance with the announcement just made by the Chairman 
 of the Committee of Arrangements for this re-union, I have 
 the pleasure and honor of introducing to you, as President of 
 the day, General John A. Sutter, our grand old patriarch and 
 noble chieftain, whom we all delight to honor ; whose noble 
 deeds and golden virtues, amid the stirring incidents and en- 
 chanting scenes of his pastoral life in the Golden Land, and in 
 the exciting events of his discovery and development of her 
 rich placers, have made his name as illustrious in history as it 
 is grateful in our hearts. You will rejoice with me that God 
 has given him length of days, and that he is enabled to join 
 with us to-day, in the full communion of body and spirit, in the 
 commemoration of his proud achievements, and the brilliant 
 results — as wonderful as those from the touch of the magical 
 lamp of Aladdin — that sprang from his grand discovery. You 
 will join with me in the fervent prayer, that God will give him 
 still greater length of days, and that the sunset of- his life may 
 be as serene and beautiful, as its meridian was glorious with 
 full-orbed splendor, whose 
 
 " Light stUl lingers 'round us yet. 
 Bright, radiant, blest." 
 
 You will also unite with me to-day in the earnest hope that 
 
HIS ADDKESS OF WELCOME. 405 
 
 the justly-merited and long-deferred reward for his inestimable 
 services to the whole country, may soon cease to be a reproach 
 upon the justice, gratitude apd magnanimity of the Republic ; 
 that it may yet be said, to the honor of our country, as of the 
 warrior, renowned in Snanish history and song : 
 
 " After high deeds not left untold 
 In the stern warfare, which of old 
 
 'Twas his to share, 
 Such noble leagues he made, that more 
 And fairer regions than before. 
 
 His guerdon were." 
 
 And now. General Sutter, veteran pioneer and noblest of 
 
 men, 
 
 " Let not thy noble spirit grieve, 
 Its life of glorious fame to leave 
 On earth below ;" 
 
 for, though the official and substantial recognition of thy 
 grand services and grander life may be withheld, through the 
 proverbial ingratitude of republics, we, thy clansmen and thy 
 children, will never withhold from thee the just meed and 
 loyal tribute of our grateful affection and honor ; and, better 
 still, 
 
 " In Heaven thou shalt receive, at length. 
 
 The guerdon of thine early strength 
 
 And genemis hand." 
 
 On taking the chair, General Sutter made a few remarks, 
 during which he said he felt proud of the honor conferred 
 ou him, and was glad his life had been spared him to meet 
 his early California associates on the occasion of the twenty- 
 sixth anniversary of tlie admission of California into the 
 Union, and particularly at the Centennial Celebration of 
 the Independence of the United States. 
 
 General H. Gates Gibson, President of the "Associated 
 Pioneers," then delivered the following eloquent address of 
 welcome, which was rapturously applauded : 
 
 Fellow-Califoenians, Ladies and Gentlemen : — Un- 
 
406 ADDRESS OF WELCOME. . 
 
 der the auspices of "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial 
 Days of California," this re-union has been initiated and in- 
 augurated, and it now becomes my pleasing duty to extend to 
 each and all of you, a cordial, hearty welcome. It was said of 
 old, that " when Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug of 
 war," but may it ever be said of us, the Argonauts of the 
 nineteenth century, that when Californian meets Californian, 
 then comes the warm clasp of the hand, the bright kindling of 
 the eye, and the kindly, earnest greeting that springs from the 
 heart. As with the pilgrims of the Holy Land, "palm to 
 palm was holy palmer's kiss ;" so we, pilgrims of the Golden 
 Land, bestow on each other to-day the "palmer's kiss" of 
 golden peace, affection and welcome. 
 
 On this natal day of California, we have come with proud 
 and grateful hearts to exultingly sing with you our paeans of 
 praise and honor to the Golden State, and to join in the patri- 
 otic rejoicings of our countrymen over this grand Centennial 
 Jubilee of the Republic, on this historic spot whence the glad 
 tidings went forth : " Proclaim liberty throughout the land to 
 all the inhabitants thereof." 
 
 The distinguished orator, who will address you to-day will, 
 no doubt, do full justice to the mighty thoughts inspired by 
 the occasion and your presence ; and, though they may not 
 
 " suggest 
 Life's endless toil and endeavor," 
 
 yet they teach an invaluable lesson to those who may come 
 after us, demonstrating by example, as rich and beautiful as 
 " apples of gold in pictures of silver," the truth of the grand 
 apothegm, that 
 
 " In the lexicon of youth, which Fate reserves 
 
 For a bright manhood, there is no such word 
 
 As— fail!" 
 
 But, enticing as may be the theme of California, and the 
 story of her sterling Pioneers, I must not encroach upon the 
 province of your orator, or trespass upon your indulgence be- 
 yond the duty incumbent upon me as President of the Society ; 
 and, if tempted beyond it, your own hearts will plead for me : 
 " The love he bore to California was at fault ;" 
 
ADDRESS OF WEJXOME. 
 
 407 
 
 for our hearts go out to her to-day with an earnest longing, in 
 some degree akin to that of the fond mother for the child of 
 whom God has bereft her. 
 
 The scenes and incidents of our California life 
 
 "When fond recollection presents them to view," 
 
 and the associations blended with our California experience, 
 are replete with golden reminiscences of rare charm and rich 
 felicity ; appreciated by us at least, if not by the Gentiles, who 
 never trod her soil or bathed in the waters of her Jordan, or 
 reveled in the delights of her delectable climate and scenery. 
 The skeptic and scoffer may, in the spirit of Naaman of 
 old, exclaim : " Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Da- 
 mascus, better than all the waters of Israel ?" but we who have 
 seen the beauties and virtues of the waters, soil and clime of 
 California, and felt the magical influence of her rich and novel 
 experiences and associations, know whereof we speak, and know 
 that we accord to her only the just meed of praise and honor. 
 For " the gold of that land is good " — ■" a land of corn and 
 wine, of oil, olive and of honey ;" with crystal golden streams, 
 and "broad-armed ports whereon rich navies ride;" with 
 scenes of exquisite pastoral beauty, and landscapes of grandest 
 sublimity ; all, golden scenes, incidents, associations and ex- 
 periences, aye, golden virtues, too, that " smell sweet and blos- 
 som in the dust" of our remembrance. Imbued with the 
 spirit of the revived freshness and fragrance of these delightful 
 memories, we bid you a glad and feeling welcome. 
 
 But in the gladness of our welcome to the coming guest from 
 her golden shores, and in our grateful tribute of affection to 
 our beautiful Golden Land, we must not forget that "the 
 place whereon thou standest is holy ground " — sacred to the 
 birth of a nation, and hallowed as the sanctuary of the taber- 
 nacle of the ark of the covenant — our matchless Constitution 
 of government; the Mecca of Freedom to which we have, 
 this day, made our pilgrimage to draw, at the altars our fathers 
 built, fresh and pure inspirations of loyalty and devotion to 
 our whole country. One hundred years ago, the Continental 
 Congress here uttered the bold Declaration which severed our 
 
408 ADDRESS OF WELCOME. 
 
 connection with the mother country and made us a nation; 
 and, building better than they knew, left us a goodly heritage 
 of " Virtue, Liberty and Independence ;" bequeathed us a noble 
 legacy of the most perfect league and covenant of union, that 
 the wisdom of man ever devised. If we fail to guard, with 
 jealous care, the security and purity of the one, or to protect 
 from the hands of the spoiler the majestic fabric of the other, 
 the blame will lie with us, not with the fathers of the Republic. 
 Then 
 
 " Guard we but our own hearts ; witt constant view 
 To ancient morals, ancient manners true. 
 True to the manlier virtues such as nerved 
 Our fathers' breasts : then this proud land preserved 
 For many a rugged age." 
 
 " Laud of the brave, athwart whose gloomy night 
 Breaks the bright dawn and harbinger of light. 
 May glory now efface each blot of shame, 
 May freedom's torch e'er light thy path to fame; 
 May Christian truth in this thy sacred birth 
 Add strength to empire, give to wisdom worth. 
 And with the rich-fraught hopes of coming years 
 Inspire thy triumphs while it dries thy tears." 
 
 The age of California as a State, is but one-fourth of that of 
 the Republic as a nation, and when the English colonies of 
 the Atlantic were thriving settlements, not even the bold rover 
 of the Spanish main and of seas unknown had " spied out the 
 land and found that it was good ;" yet she has " fretted her 
 brief hour upon the stage " of history to the grand purpose 
 and effect of the advancement of the greatness and richness of 
 the whole country. And her pioneers are here to-day to offer, 
 in the true Californian spirit of old, their devout and filial 
 homage to the fathers of the Union, whose precious inherit- 
 ance was borne by them, with the glorious ensign of the Re- 
 public, to the far distant shores of the Pacific. And, in grate- 
 ful return, and in triumphant pride, it has been the mission 
 and glory of California 
 
 " To scatter plenty o'er a smiling land 
 And read her history in a nation's eyes.'' 
 
LETTERS OF EEGKET. 409 
 
 For out of her opulence and abundance from soil, and rock, 
 and stream, " wealth gilded our cities, commerce crowded our 
 shores,'' and but for our late suicidal strife, the world would 
 have witnessed, as predicted hf President Polk, the permanent 
 transfer of the control of its monetary concerns from London 
 to New York. And if the treasures and products which Cali- 
 fornia poured with bounteous hand into the coffers and grana- 
 ries of the nation have been wasted through misrule, passion 
 and folly, you, Pioneers of the Golden Land, have the proud 
 satisfaction of knowing that in all you have done to promote 
 the progress and prosperity of your country, you have nobly 
 illustrated the force and spirit of the words of the poet : 
 
 "Act well your part, for there all honor lies." 
 
 At the conclusion of General Gibson's address of wel- 
 come, Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secretary of the " Associated 
 Pioneers," followed with the reading of letters from in- 
 vited guests unable to be present. These were from Presi- 
 dent Grant, General Sherman, and from Emory L. Wil- 
 lard and Colonel A. C. Bradford, Secretaries respectively 
 of " The Territorial Pioneers of California," at San Fran- 
 cisco, and the parent organization known as the " Society 
 of California Pioneers," and Major-General Joseph W. 
 Revere, of Morristown, N. J., who raised the first Ameri- 
 can flag on the Bay of San Francisco, at Sonoma, and took 
 possession of that district in the name of the United 
 States, on July 9th, 1846. Letters were also read from 
 Major-General James A. Hardie, who went to California 
 as major of Colonel Stevenson's regiment; Hon. Philip 
 A. Eoach, ex-President of the " California Pioneers," and 
 Bayard Taylor. The last-named gentleman, referring to 
 General Sutter, stated that he had not seen him since he 
 saw him in Monterey, in 1849, when he waltzed with him 
 at the ball given at the close of the Constitutional Con- 
 vention. 
 
 After the playing of "O California" by the band, the 
 orator of the day, ex-Governor Rodman M. Price, of New 
 
410 GOV. pkice's oeatioet. 
 
 Jersey, was introduced to the assemblage and delivered the 
 following interesting and eloquent oration : 
 
 Fellow-Califoenians, Ladies and Gentlemen: — I 
 greet you with the love and memories of our early associations. 
 The retrospect of the occupation, settlement and progress of 
 California for the past thirty years is so wonderful a history 
 that it would seem to verify the poet's aphorism : " 'Tis strange — 
 but true ; for truth is always strange — stranger than fiction." 
 
 The growth of California in so short a period of time has 
 been truly marvelous. It is eminently proper that so import- 
 ant an event in the development of our country, to which Cali- 
 fornia and our territory on the Pacific slope of the continent 
 has contributed so abundantly, should be commemorated on 
 these grounds dedicated to the exhibition of our national ad- 
 vancement for the past century in resources and power. 
 
 The re-union of those associated in the early events of 
 the acquisition, settlement and sudden development of the 
 wealth of California on this the twenty-sixth anniversary of 
 its admission into the Union as the thirty-first State of the Re- 
 public, is to us most gratifying and auspicious. 
 
 In looking back and contrasting the condition of the Terri- 
 tory when first acquired by the United States, and its present 
 condition, it seems as if the voice of the Creator, as in the 
 beginning, again called darkness into light, and is an event 
 cherished alike in its proud significance by the citiZ|ens of the 
 Atlantic and Pacific States. 
 
 Scarcely had the echo of our victorious guns at Palo Alto 
 and Eesaca de la Palma, on the Eio Grande, reached the 
 silent shores of the Pacific Ocean, when a small squadron of 
 our naval vessels, under the command of Commodore John D. 
 Sloat, anchored before Monterey, the Mexican capital of Upper 
 California, and demanded a surrender of the place, which being 
 refused, a force was landed on the 7th of July, 1846, which 
 took possession, raised the American flag, and proclaimed the 
 occupation of California by the United States, just in time to 
 prevent its falling into the lap of England, whose ambition 
 greatly coveted its possession. 
 
 It was a bold act for the American commodore, with so 
 
DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 411 
 
 small a naval force, to declare the occupation of so large a ter- 
 ritory, so remote from supplies or reinforcements. 
 
 It was held, but not without a severe struggle, with the 
 assistance of that gallant, hardy and brave battalion of the 
 early settlers of California, commanded by General John C. 
 Fremont, whose early exploration and military services under 
 the indomitable Commodore Stockton, the successor of Sloat, 
 contributed largely toward sustaining our flag during the war. 
 
 Immediately after the announcement had gone forth to the 
 world, in 1848, that a treaty of peace had been made between 
 the United States and Mexico, by which Upper California was 
 ceded to our Government, James W. Marshall, a laboring man, 
 discovered gold on the lands of Captain Sutter, on the Ameri- 
 can River. The news of this discovery spread rapidly, and the 
 immense immigration in 1849 at once followed. A rush to 
 California from all parts of the world soon changed that pas- 
 toral country into a broad scene of active commercial and 
 mining life. 
 
 The mountain gulches in the wild Sierra Nevada, where the 
 white man had never been, was soon teeming with ardent 
 seekers for the golden treasure. The country whose currency 
 had been hides was soon overflowing with gold-dust. The first 
 discoveries were in placer diggings, but soon thereafter the 
 auriferous veins of quartz were uncovered, and the skilled work 
 of practical miners and the application of machinery followed. 
 The indolent ranchero was supplanted by the active, intelligent 
 and enlightened argonauts, enterprising, fearless, self-reliant 
 men. 
 
 The production of gold was large during 1849, and the prices 
 paid for provisions were enormous, flour selling as high as $60 
 a barrel at San Francisco, and $100 at the mines. The emi- 
 grants had to depend entirely upon a foreign supply of bread- 
 stuff*, nor was it then believed it would ever be otherwise. 
 
 It seems strange, indeed, that the soil supposed to be b'arren 
 has proved the richest and most fertile of all the States, so that 
 to-day, although its production of gold and silver is large, the 
 value of its grain productions is much larger. Another mis- 
 take was the under-estimate of arable land, and the supposed 
 
412' THE CHANGES OF THIRTY YEAES. 
 
 necessity for irrigation to produce crops. A much larger fleet 
 than was engaged in bringing subsistence to California is now 
 employed in carrying away her productions. 
 
 The liberal character of the Constitution made for the State 
 has had great influence upon its prosperity. Especially the 
 rejection of slavery and involuntary servitude, which was car- 
 ried by Southern men in the convention, though labor com- 
 manded higher wages than ever known before. The giving to 
 women the right to hold separate property, both real and per- 
 sonal, which they had acquired either before or after marriage, 
 by gift, devise or descent, was also a marked instance of pro- 
 gress. The prohibition of moneyed corporations from receiving 
 special chartered rights was an important feature. 
 
 It seems a dream, looking back through the vista of thirty 
 years, and contrasting that rude and unsettled country with 
 the present condition of the rich and thriving State of Califor- 
 nia. We may almost claim a miracle has been performed, so 
 great is the transformation. When I remember to have shot 
 wild game in that early day on the site of the present business 
 portion of the city of San Francisco, and on the very spot 
 where the magnificent Palace Hotel has arisen in its grand 
 proportions, I am deeply impressed by the rapid march of 
 civilization, wealth and refinement ; and when we reflect that 
 San Francisco now ranks as the third commercial city of the 
 Union, with a population of more than a quarter of a million, 
 while the State is estimated at a million, and the Pacific slope 
 at a million and a half of people, it is difficult to realize the 
 change. The importance and value of its acquisition cannot 
 be fully estimated. Its influence has been by far the greatest 
 since the birth of the nation, not even excepting the purchase 
 of Louisiana from France. Imagination could not have fore- 
 seen its importance, nor can we now foretell its future. 
 
 The climate of California, extending with its 10° of lati- 
 tude along the Pacific coast between 114° and 124° west 
 longitude, is much milder, even at high elevations, than that 
 of the same latitude on the Atlantic. In climate, California is 
 as favored as in gold, excluding the extremes of the torrid 
 and frigid zones. The physical character of her climate no 
 
THE WONDEOTJS CLIMATE. 413 
 
 one can describe. The influence of location or topography or 
 latitude puts all rules, as applied elsewhere, at defiance. Its 
 infinite variety, both as to time and place, is not only charm- 
 ing, but exceedingly useful. 
 
 In localities, not more than five miles distant from each 
 other, the varieties of fruit, with the same care and culture, 
 will vary from fifteen to twenty days in ripening. 
 
 There is no fruit, grain or vegetable, native to any clime, 
 save a few tropical plants, that California does not produce in 
 the highest state of excellence and in the greatest abundance. 
 Some of its valleys are said to be, by those of extensive travel 
 and thorough observation, for their extent, beauty and fertility, 
 unsurpassed on the globe. The sheltered valleys along the 
 coast enjoy a delicious climate. In any other country ranging 
 through 10° of latitude, the difference of temperature would 
 be considerable, but in California this difierence is greatly 
 increased by the peculiarities of its surface. 
 
 The climate of California has thus been dwelt upon as 
 having a great influence upon the marvelous fertility of the 
 soil, both as to variety, quantity and size of its products. 
 Figs, dates, oranges, olives and bananas flourish with the 
 peach, pear, apple and apricot. Wheat, barley and oats yield 
 largely. Tobacco, cotton, rice, tea and cofiee are all cultivated 
 successfully, and no one can doubt for a moment, who has any 
 intelligence upon the subject, that California is destined in the 
 early future to produce more and better grapes, raisins and 
 wine than any other district of equal extent on which the sun 
 ever shone. Indeed, all the productions of the earth seem to 
 flourish within her boundary. It is a curious contemplation 
 to speculate what influence her temperature, so uniform, and 
 climate, so salubrious, are to have upon the mental and physi- 
 cal growth of man in the future. One-quarter more time can 
 be given to labor and study, with less mental or bodily fatigue, 
 than on the Atlantic, so we may reasonably look there for the 
 highest mental and physical development. There are no real 
 vicissitudes of climate, nothing enervating in temperature, 
 and it is a land supplying every want and furnishing every 
 luxury. 
 
414 IMMENSE VALITE OP HER PEO DUCTS. 
 
 Twenty-five years ago a stream of gold went out in payment for 
 breadstuffs and manufactured goods. To-day it is reversed — her 
 production and export of wheat in value is greater annually 
 than the product of her gold, in which, however, she still 
 holds the first rank. She is now manufacturing her articles of 
 necessity, and is self-sustaining, with all the elements of a great 
 empire. There is not a want, there is not a luxury, there is 
 not a creature comfort that cannot be supplied within her 
 borders. There is not an element of national power, wealth 
 or greatness, but what her hills and valleys produce. 
 
 If we may be permitted to look perspectively into the future, 
 and take the growth of California for the past thirty years as 
 a base for her future growth, what, we may ask, is to be the 
 population and wealth on her Centennial anniversary ? Even 
 now, it is believed by many, that California offers larger in- 
 ducements for settlement, and promises greater reward for 
 labor and capital than at any time during her history. 
 
 We must not forget in tracing the events of her progress 
 that she has constructed and completed 2,000 miles of railroad, 
 which, in connection with her steamship line to Japan and 
 China, will open up for her a great future in trade and com- 
 merce. 
 
 It is a singular reflection to the early pioneers, to know that 
 the products of China are arriving almost daily at the Atlan- 
 tic sea-ports, by the way of San Francisco and the Pacific 
 railroad. Who of us could have ever expected that a pas- 
 senger car carrying the mail could pass from New York 
 to San Francisco in the incredibly short time of eighty-eight 
 hours ? 
 
 Year after year a continual stream of the precious metals, 
 having its source in the hills and mountains of that coast, has 
 been poured abroad into the channels of trade and commerce. 
 In all, no less a sum than $1,763,000,000. Added to this, 
 wheat has been produced worth $360,000,000; wool, worth 
 $63,000,000; quicksilver, $20,000,000; wine, $20,000,000; 
 coal, $23,000,000; lumber, 70,000,000, with other items a 
 grand total of $2,336,000,000. 
 
 Her sister State, Nevada, will take the first rank in the pro- 
 
A TEIBUTE OF EESPECT. 415 
 
 duction of the precious metals ttis year, in giving to the world 
 $55,000,000 of gold and silver, but California still retains the 
 pre-eminence in gold. 
 
 We are glad to say that in the rapid progress and growth 
 of California, the church, the school and the press have ad- 
 vanced as rapidly in their various spheres of usefulness as the 
 most enlightened Christian people could desire. 
 
 When we look over the list of our early associates in Cali- 
 fornia, we can point to men eminent and distinguished in all 
 the walks of life. The very air of California seems to stimu- 
 late an ambition to excel, quicken and enlarge the mind and 
 to make it more comprehensive, clear and tenacious of its 
 purpose. Generals Grant, Sherman, Hooker, Kearney, Fre- 
 mont, Gibson, Mason, Eiley and many others are graduates of 
 California ; as also are Sloat, Stockton, Mervine, Montgomery, 
 DuPont, Shubrick, Jones, Revere, Beale and Paterson, of the 
 navy. 
 
 Mercantile life was represented by men of the strictest in- 
 tegrity, sound business principles, enterprising, liberal and 
 conservative, inspiring confidence and maintaining honest 
 dealing at a time when men trusted each other implicitly ; 
 individual honor was at stake, and there was no breach of 
 trust. The legal and medical professions were distinguished 
 for their attainments, ability and thorough, sound professional 
 acquirements. 
 
 Associates, we will not separate without paying a fitting 
 tribute of respect to the parent society of pioneers, organized 
 " to cultivate the social virtues of its members, to collect and 
 preserve information connected with the early settlement and 
 conquest of California, and to perpetuate the memory of those 
 whose sagacity, enterprise and love of independence induced 
 them to settle in the wilderness and become the germ of a new 
 State." For thirty years we have cherished, almost as brothers, 
 the ties of regard and friendship that have bound us together 
 as pioneers of the west coast ; and now, after a brief re-union, 
 we are about to part. Undoubtedly to some of us this friendly 
 meeting will be our last, but I am sure I express the common 
 sentiment of all when I say that life has had for me no more 
 
416 THE SONG OF THE ARGONAUTS, 
 
 grateful retrospect, and memory no more treasured recollections 
 than the associations and friendships of those early days. 
 
 For you, Californians, who now enjoy the privilege and the 
 blessings of a residence in the Golden State, let me say in your 
 behalf: 
 
 " Great God, we thank thee for this home — 
 This bounteous birth-land of the free ; 
 Where wanderers from afar may come 
 
 And breathe the air of liberty. 
 Still may her flowers untrampled spring, 
 
 Her harvests ware, her cities rise; 
 And yet till Time shall fold his wing. 
 Remain Earth's loveliest paradise." 
 
 The conclusion of the oration was followed by the 
 " Song of the Aegokauts, or, The Days of 'Forty- 
 nine," •written expressly for the occasion by Samuel C. 
 Upham, and sung by Mr. George A. Conly, basso of the 
 Kellogg Opera Troupe. The song was rendered in fine 
 style, the large audience rapturously applauding the senti- 
 ment, and joining in the chorus. 
 
 AiE — Auld Lang Syne. 
 
 We are assembled here to-day — 
 
 A band of Pioneers, 
 To celebrate with grateful hearts. 
 
 Events of by-gone years : 
 We come from hill and valley fair, 
 
 Sierras capped with snow — • 
 With kindly words we greet you now, 
 Dear friends of long ago. 
 Chorus — Oh, cherished be for evermore. 
 The days of auld lang syne, 
 Those golden days — remembered days — 
 The days of 'Forty-nine. 
 
 Fresh laurel-wreaths we bring to-day, 
 To crown the Patriarch,* 
 
 * General John A. Sutter, aged 74 years. 
 
THE SONG OP THE ARGONAUTS. 417 
 
 Whose hand unlocked the golden ore, 
 
 In gulch and canon dark. 
 Old Pioneer ! thy name we still 
 
 In all our hearts enshrine ; 
 God's blessing rest upon thy head, 
 
 Dear friend of auld lang syne ! 
 Chorus — Oh, cherished be for evermore, etc. 
 
 We are a band of Argonauts, 
 
 Erst from Eureka State, 
 By some the golden fleece was found. 
 
 Whilst others mourned their fate. 
 We digged in gulch and delved in mine, 
 
 From morn till setting sun. 
 With aching limbs and moistened brows — 
 
 But perseverance won. 
 Chorus — Oh, cherished be for evermore, etc. 
 
 No maiden's voice, with cheering words, 
 
 Was heard in mine or camp — 
 The miner's food was grizzly meat, 
 
 And knot of pine his lamp. 
 But changes great have taken place. 
 
 Since days of 'Forty-nine, 
 The miner now in comfort dwells, 
 
 And kneels at woman's shrine. 
 Chorus — Oh, cherished be for evermore, etc. 
 
 Hillside, ravine and tule marsh 
 
 Now blossom as the rose, 
 And 'round Diablo's verdant base, 
 
 The crystal streamlet flows. 
 Now glory be to God on high ! 
 
 Let this our pEean be — 
 And peace on earth, good-will to man, 
 
 Our prayer, God, to Thee ! 
 Chorus — Oh, cherished be for evermore, etc. 
 
418 SPEECHES BY HOOKEK AND CUETIN. 
 
 After the rendering of a Potpourri of Operatic airs by 
 the band, Major-General Joseph Hooker, who occupied a 
 seat in the audience, was called upon by the Chairman, 
 General Gibson, and introduced to the audience. When 
 the enthusiasm which greeted his presence by the side of 
 the Chairman had abated, the gallant General, amid re- 
 peated bursts of merriment, spoke as follows : 
 
 Ladies and Gentlemen : — If you can tell me why I am 
 on this platform, I wish you would. [Laughter.] I don't 
 want to be placed in a ridiculous position, as I always am when 
 I attempt to make a speech. I am not going to make the at- 
 tempt, however. You have heard talking, and good talking ; 
 and if you want anybody to talk, here is ex-Governor Curtin — 
 he will talk to you by the yard, and he will talk well, too. 
 
 A series of cheers, loud calls for " Curtin," and the in- 
 troduction of ex-Governor Curtin by the Chairman as "the 
 great War Governor of Pennsylvania," prepared the audi- 
 ence for another extempore speech. 
 
 Expressing his obligations to General Hooker for the 
 complimentary reference to himself, and adding that his 
 speech was not on the programme, the Governor said he 
 had come as a spectator to look into the faces of the men 
 who settled California and conquered the Pacific coast ; but 
 if anything could inspire a man to speak, it was the present 
 occasion. In heathen mythology, Jason went to hunt the 
 golden fleece, and this had been celebrated in song and clas- 
 sic poetry, and handed down through mysterious and un- 
 certain history. Whether it was fact or fable, is not 
 known, but a fact which is well known, is that an enter- 
 prising man left his free home in the Alps, and passing out 
 to the Pacific coast, found in the tail-race of a saw-mill the 
 glittering metal which has made California what it is to- 
 day. The discovery has created new States, made marvel- 
 ous changes in the commerce of the world and enabled the 
 
THE BANQUET. 419 
 
 American people to take a forward leap of fifty years. 
 It is pleasant for a Pennsylvanian to be surrounded by 
 the men who made a new empire and brought it into the 
 great Commonwealth of States. The Pioneers of Cali- 
 fornia before mo have taken from the Eastern States the 
 best blood of those States, their youth, integrity, energy 
 and enterprise. With the traditions of the past in their 
 minds, the glory of their great country in their hearts, they 
 needed no school-masters, but brought California into the 
 Union without probation, full-fledged in all that makes a 
 Commonwealth great. Alluding to the Centennial and the 
 patriotic memories of the Mecca of American liberty, he 
 said that above all achievements of art, science and manu- 
 factures, the crowning glory of the Exhibition was its 
 demonstration of what one hundred years of liberty could 
 do for a people — nay, more, of how a free people, after 
 discord, death and carnage, could come together in frater- 
 nity. The Governor's remarks were liberally applauded, 
 and at their close three rousing cheers were given for him. 
 
 Mr. Colin M. Boyd, of San Francisco, President of the 
 "Tereitorial Pioneers of California," closed the 
 oratory with an expression to the audience of the greetings 
 of their associates in California, whom he had left a week 
 before. He said the day was being generally celebrated by 
 the Pioneer Societies in California, and that its members 
 felt that, though separated from them by a continent, the 
 Pioneers of the East were to-day identified with them as 
 thoroughly as they were in 'Forty-nine. 
 
 At four o'clock, P. M., some four Iiundred ladies and 
 gentlemen, with many guests of the Society, partook of a 
 banquet at the Globe Hotel, under the management of that 
 prince of caterers, Mr. John Rice. A sudden alarm, 
 caused by a destructive conflagration in the immediate 
 neighborhood, at half-past four o'clock, and which for a 
 short time threatened the destruction of the hotel, caused 
 a stampede among the guests and occasioned an interrup- 
 24 
 
420 GENERAL GIBSON'S ADDRESS. 
 
 tion of the feast, which was finally resumed without serious 
 inconvenience to the participants. When justice had been 
 done to the substantial of the tables, Governor Hartranft 
 welcomed the company to the State and commended the 
 purpose of the organization. General H. G. Gibson, Presi- 
 dent of the " Associated Pioneers," then delivered the 
 following address : 
 
 Fellow-Califoenians, Ladies and Gentlemen: — In 
 the fullness of our joy at the success of the day, and after re- 
 freshing the inner man from the abundance provided for our 
 delectation and sustenance by our goodly Boniface in this 
 goodly city of Philadelphia, let us with merry hearts making 
 cheerful countenances, hold sweet converse together about our 
 beautiful and beloved California. We have been delighted to- 
 day by the glowing recital of her glories and her triumphs, and 
 by the well-told story of the proud achievements of her sturdy 
 Pioneers, reminding us, if we needed any reminder, that in the 
 acquisition and development of her opulent regions, and in the 
 foundation of a noble State — quorum pars magna fui — each one 
 of us contributed according to his opportunity, whether the 
 widow's mite, or the largest measure of effort, influence and 
 ability. Our hearts have been gladdened, too, to-day, by the 
 presence of so many of the sons of the Golden State — her Pio- 
 neers of ancient days, and citizens of later years, as well as her 
 exiles in the East, but still her children ; for, she claims that 
 " no divorce can separate a mother from her son." And, above 
 all, while 
 
 " Memory blends with the twilight charm. 
 
 And bears us back to other days,'' 
 and 
 
 " Hand in hand as friends we wander 
 
 Down the golden aisles of the long-ago," 
 
 we thank God that He has blessed to us the golden richness 
 of her associations, and the diamond roughness of her expe- 
 riences. We have not " gathered grapes of thorns, or figs of 
 thistles," for the fruits of our experience have come from no 
 barren soil or unnatural growth. And amid the richest and 
 
GENERAL GIBSON's ADDEESS. 421 
 
 best of God's gifts to man in her lovely clime, we have found 
 no fruit to " turn like Dead-sea fruit to ashes on the lip," but 
 only that which is delicious and fragrant in remembrance. 
 The magic glass of memory casts only "rare and roseate 
 shadows " from her varied scenes of the past, and the same 
 rich hue, the same oouleur de rose, the same halo of enchant- 
 ment which led us far away from home and kindred and 
 friends in years gone by, still lingers around the El Dorado of 
 our youth. And strong, vivid and charming as the scenes of 
 our childhood, when recalled, as 
 
 " the musical clink 
 Of the ice on your wine-goblet's brink 
 A chord of my memory awoke. 
 
 " And I stood in the pasture-field where. 
 
 Many summers ago, I had stood. 
 And I heard in that sound, I declare. 
 The clinking of bells on the air 
 
 Of the cows coming home from the wood. 
 
 " Then the apple-blossoms shook on the hill ; 
 
 And the mullein-stalks tilted each lance ; 
 And the sun behind Eapalve's mill 
 "Was my uttermost west, and could thrill. 
 
 Like the Ultima Thule of romance." 
 
 With so many pleasing memories and richly-instructive 
 experiences of the Golden Land, then our 
 
 — " uttermost west that could thrill. 
 Like the Ultima Thule of Eomance," 
 
 in which "our youth was nurtured and sustained," though 
 perhaps not always with a kindly hand, is it any wonder that 
 our pulses quicken and our hearts throb with pleasurable emo- 
 tion on these occasions, and that " when two or three are gath- 
 ered together in her name," then we feel her benign spirit is 
 " in the midst of them." Until the muffled drum within us 
 shall cease to beat, we can never become cold or callous to 
 these inspiring feelings and impressions, keenly felt alike by 
 the ancient Pioneer, whose name is a synonym for all that is 
 
422 GENEEAL GIBSON's ADDRESS. 
 
 noble, " lovely, and of good report ;" by " the toilers of the 
 sea" to her golden shores, who 
 
 " Each took a horn in homage to the Horn ;" 
 
 by the imperiled and delayed voyager by the Isthmus route, 
 or the way-worn traveler of the dreary plains and forbidding 
 mountains ; by the seekers for the rich ore reposing in her 
 bosom ; by those who " tickled her soil with a hoe and made 
 it laugh with a harvest," or quaffed the nectar of the rich 
 juices of her vintage, 
 
 " Whose sweet perfume fills all the room 
 With a benison on the Giver ;" 
 
 by those who, standing awe-struck in the presence of the 
 mighty monarchs of her mighty forests, no longer wondered 
 at the peculiar idolatry of our Druid ancestors, but were im- 
 pressed with a feeling of genuine " worship of that Divine 
 something, which blossoms in the weed and whose highest 
 phase is manifest in the beauty of holiness." 
 
 I will not detain you by repeating the story of her glory 
 and success, or of the blessings and benefits flowing in richest 
 streams of ever-widening channels throughout the whole 
 Union — resulting from the annexation of California, for it is 
 more than a thrice-told tale — and of which, I trust, you will 
 never weary. But in the radiant light of the past, it requires no 
 
 " sunset of life — giving mystical lore," 
 
 or vision of the prophet to predict that yet 
 
 " High on his rock shall California's genius stand. 
 Scatter the crowded hosts and vindicate the land ;" 
 
 scatter the crowded hosts that imperil the safety and pros- 
 perity of the Republic, and vindicate the land by yet more 
 glorious triumphs and successes — still pointing as in the past 
 from her bold promontories, stretching far out toward " the 
 sunny regions of Cathay," and saying to the nation : " There 
 is the East ! There is India !" 
 
GREETINGS BY TELEGBAPH. 423 
 
 Brief remarks were also made by General Hooker, 
 Joaquin Miller, poet of the Sierras, and Colonel Charles 
 N. Pine, editor of the Philadelphia Day. The audience 
 having tendered their thanks to Mr. S. C. Upham, for his 
 contribution of " The Song of the Argonauts," that gentle- 
 man acknowledged the compliment in a brief speech. The 
 festivities then closed with the singing of the above song, 
 the entire audience joining in the chorus. 
 
 Major John S. Stevenson, manager of the "Pacific 
 Coast Centennial Hall," and his assistant, Mr. A. D. 
 Smith, rendered efficient aid during the day. Thus ended 
 " California Day" one of the most agreeable re-unions and 
 notable events of the Centennial Exhibition. 
 
 Before the close of the exercises at the Centennial 
 Grounds, the following telegrams were sent to California : 
 
 Philadelphia, Sept. 9th, 1876. 
 To John C. Buech, First Vice-President, Piatt's Hall, San 
 Francisco: — -Your President, Colin M. Boyd, is our honored 
 guest to-day. We greet you as brothers. May we ever re- 
 main true to our early California experiences. 
 
 Francis D. Claek, 
 
 Sec'y Associated Pioneers. 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa., Sept. 9th, 1876. 
 To THE Teeeitoeial Pioneers of Calipoenia, Piatt's 
 Hall: — The day was celebrated with great success here. Sut- 
 ter, Price, Hooker, Gibson, Clark and four hundred others did 
 honor to the Golden State. 
 
 Colin M. Boyd, 
 
 President. 
 
SECOND ANNUAL EE-TJNION AND BANQUET 
 OF "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS 0¥ THE 
 TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA." 
 
 Committee of Arrangements — Eeport of Secretary and Treasurer 
 Clark — Election of officers — The banquet — President Gibson's 
 address — Addresses by General Thomas D. Johns, Joseph S. 
 Spinney, Clark Bell, Colonel James M. Turner, Samuel C. Upham 
 and Colonel John A. Godfrey. 
 
 The Second Annual Re-union and Banquet of " The 
 Associated Pioneees op the Tereitoei^l Days op 
 Calipoenia," was held at the Sturtevant House, New 
 York, on the evening of the 18th of January, 1877, being 
 the twenty-ninth anniversary of the discovery of gold at 
 Sutter's saw-mill, at Coloma, California. The different 
 committees were composed of the following gentlemen, 
 members of the Society: 
 
 COMMITTEE OP ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 Gen. H. G. Gibson, U. S. A., Hon. C. K. Gabeison, 
 
 Gen. C. S. Merchant, U. S. A., George Howes, 
 
 Gen. Joseph Hooker, U. S. A., George F. Snifpen, 
 
 Commander Eioh'd W. Meade, U. S. N., James A. Speery, 
 
 John Laimbeer, Jeremiah Sherwood, 
 
 Edward F. Burton, John Gault, 
 Gen. Thos. D. Johns, Chairman. 
 
 COMMITTEE ON INVITATION. 
 
 John Sickels, Joseph S. Spinney, 
 
 GiLMOR Meredith, Charles K. Thompson, 
 
 Edwin 0. Kemble, Cornelius Lydeckee, 
 
 John G. Hodge, Gen. John S. Ellis. 
 
 (424) 
 
ELECTION OF OFFICERS. 425 
 
 reception committee. 
 
 Gen. James F. Curtis, Gen. F. E. Pinto, 
 
 Edgae W. Ceowell, Wm. C. Annan, 
 
 H. B. Hawkins, James H. Bxttlee, 
 
 "William M. Walton, S. L. Meechant, 
 
 Chas. W. Schumann, Edwaed B. Anthony. 
 
 COMMITTEE ON TOASTS AND MUSIC. 
 
 Col. John A. Godpeey, E. E. Geiffith, Jk., 
 
 Hon. E. II. McKuNE, John J. Hagee, 
 
 Joseph M. Peat, A. T. Goodell. 
 
 committee on decoeations. 
 
 Oliveb H. Pieeson, Col. James E. Nuttman, 
 
 Benj. W. Jenness, Majoe Eussell Mtees, 
 
 William H. Eogees, John Wolfe. 
 
 Gen. H. G. Gibson, TJ. S. A., President. 
 
 John Sickels, Vice-President. 
 
 Feancis D. Claek, Secretary and Treasurer. 
 
 Previous to the banquet, Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secre- 
 tary and Treasurer, read his report of the work of both 
 offices for the year just closed. An election for officers for 
 the year 1877 then took place, when the following gentle- 
 men were re-elected : 
 
 General H. G. Gibson, President. 
 
 Colonel John Sickels, Vice-President. 
 
 Me. Francis D. Clark, Secretary and Treasurer. 
 
 At the close of the meeting, the Pioneers and their 
 guests repaired to the banquet-room, which was hand- 
 somely decorated with flags and streamers, prominent 
 among which was the " Pioneer Bear Flag." Among the 
 
426 MOTTOES AND DEVICES. 
 
 mottoes and devices on the walls were : " Monterey, July 
 7tli, 1846 ;" " The Bear Flagmen of 1846 ;" " The" Horn, 
 around in 180 Days ;" " Sloat, Stockton, Shubrick ;" 
 " The Exchanges of '49— El Dorado, Bella Union, Parker 
 House;" "The Fastest Ship, Young America — The 
 Largest Ship, Three Brothers ;" " The Isthmus, across, by 
 Bungo and Mule ;" " The First American Newspaper in 
 California — The Californian." The banquet was gotten 
 up by the Messrs. Leland, in their inimitable style, and 
 among the characteristic dishes were : " Lobster Salad, a la 
 San Francisco ;" " Pork and Beans, a la '49," and " Roast 
 California Quail, a la Pacific Slope." The ornaments on 
 the table included a " California Hunting Scene," and 
 " Corn d' Abundance." Among those who sat down to the 
 banquet were Generals Joseph Hooker, InnLs N. Palmer, 
 H. G. Gibson, U, S. A ; Generals Thos. D. Johns, John S. 
 Ellis, James F. Curtis; S. L. Merchant, Esq.; Commander 
 E. W. Meade, U. S. N.; Colonels John A. Godfrey, James 
 
 E. Nuttman, James ]\I. Turner, T. B. Thorpe and Edward 
 
 F. Burton ; Francis D. Clark, Clark Bell, Prentice Mul- 
 ford, S. C. Upham and Prof. Jules Lombard. After the 
 removal of the cloth, the following eloquent address was 
 delivered by General H. G. Gibson, President of the 
 Society : 
 
 Fellow-Califoenians : — This greeting of mine to-night 
 comes with mingled feelings of pleasure and surprise, inasmuch 
 as I had abandoned all hope of participating with you in this 
 Annual Re-union and Banquet of the Society. Though, per- 
 haps, among you I ought to feel like Macgregor on his native 
 heath, full of the spirit aroused by familiar scenes and faces, yet 
 I must confess, from the effect of various cares and duties, to 
 some degree of unfitness for the occasion. " Though crowd- 
 ing thoughts distract the lab'ring brain," and filled though the 
 heart may be with inspiring and delightful memories, even of 
 the scenes and associations of our California life, "the thoughts 
 that breathe and words that burn," do not always readily re- 
 
G-ENEEAL GIBSON's ADDEESS. 427 
 
 spond to the promptings of the brain, or to the feelings or 
 emotions of the heart. But feeble as may be my expression of 
 them, I greet you none the less cordially, welcome you none 
 the less heartily, to the social board. I pray as the golden 
 light of other days illumines the rich clusters of incidents, " of 
 moving accidents by flood and field," recalled ,by each of us 
 to-night, that we may each enjoy in retrospect the delicious 
 happiness which we experienced when, in the heyday of youth, 
 we " listened with credulity to the whispers of fancy, pursued 
 with eagerness the phantoms of hope," and inspired by 
 "the voice of the charmer," toiled on, hoped on toward the 
 golden goal of our individual ambition. Whatever may have 
 been our fortune in seeking the " bright jewels of the mine," 
 sought by us afar, in the wilds of California, we at least 
 learned the golden virtues of patience, fortitude and self-reli- 
 ance. And proudly, too, of the Pioneers of California, it may 
 be said: Out of the wilderness at their touch came forth 
 plenty ; out of the brain of the modern Jupiter — the American 
 Pioneer — leaped the full-armed, matured State ; out of the lion 
 slain by this modern Samson came forth the sweetness of the 
 vine — " of oil, olive and of honey." But as the story of Cali- 
 fornia and her Pioneers will be told you over and over again 
 to-night, to your gladly listening ears, I feel that I must refrain 
 from its repetition, in deference to others who may wish the 
 story to relate. 
 
 A few words before I close, and I utter them in no 
 spirit of party feeling or prejudice, but as " the words of truth 
 ' and soberness;" I have come to you to-night from the sorely- 
 stricken State of South Carolina, many of whose citizens were 
 and are of our near or full brotherhood , who, either as sons 
 of the soil of the Southern Palmetto stood shoulder to shoulder 
 with the sons of the soil of the Northern Oak, in the brilliant 
 war, which gave to the Union the treasures of California ; or 
 with us 
 
 " Digged in gulch and delved in mine, 
 From morn till setting sun," 
 
 in that land of beauty and of gold ; whose hearts are yet warm 
 
428 LETTEES OF EEGRET. 
 
 with the sunny memories of their California life and experiences, 
 and whose hands ever meet in manly, cordial grasp, the friends 
 and comrades of the 
 
 " Golden days, remembered days. 
 The days of 'Forty-nine." 
 
 In the evil days which have come upon them, in their sore trial, 
 and in their fiery furnace of affliction — be it from their sins or be 
 it from ours — we may not be able to give them aid and com- 
 fort beyond the expression of our sympathy, but we can plead 
 for them — act toward them in the spirit of the Golden Eule, 
 and as sons of the Golden Land, cherishing the fond memories 
 of the past, greet them from here to-night, as we greet each 
 other around the festive circle : 
 
 " And here's a hand, my trusty fier, 
 And gie's a hand o' thine ; 
 And we'll tak' a right guid willie-waught, 
 For auld lang syne." 
 
 At the conclusion of General Gibson's address, Secre- 
 tary Clark read letters of regret at their inability to at- 
 tend the re-union, from President Grant, Generals Sherman, 
 Sheridan and John A. Sutter, Mark Twain, Bayard Tay- 
 lor and Peter Donahue, ex-President of the " Society of 
 California Pioneers," of San Francisco. 
 
 In reply to the first toast — " The President of the United 
 States" — Colonel T. B. Thorpe said he never saw such a Cen- 
 tennial. We couldn't tell who was our President, and three 
 of our States had each two Governors, and nobody could tell 
 who was who. The two Houses of Congress had got into a 
 snarl, and the lower House (and by-the-way, it was very 
 low), didn't seem to know what it was about, and had, ap- 
 parently, lost its wits. 
 
 " The Day we Celebrate, the Anniversary of the Discovery 
 of Gold in California," was responded to by General 
 Thomas D. Johns, as follows : 
 
GENERAL JOHNs's ADDRESS. 429 
 
 Me. President and Gentlemen : — Although the day we 
 celebrate is not marked do-wn in the Calendar of Saints as 
 officially set apart as a close holiday ; nor is it, perhaps, even 
 noticed, except by this Society, it is one that may well be re- 
 membered as the commencement, the starting-point or moving 
 cause of great events that followed. 
 
 Twenty-nine years ago to-day, near the Indian Bancheria, 
 at Coloma, in what is now El Dorado County, the first gold 
 was discovered in California. With the incidents of that dis- 
 covery you are all familiar ; they have been repeated many a 
 time and oft, and have now passed into history. The bearing 
 of that discovery on the future who can tell, or even imagine? 
 We know what the results have been during the past twenty- 
 five years, in which has been founded a grand and pros- 
 perous empire on the Pacific coast — and this is but the 
 beginning. 
 
 Toiling through long years, the early settlements at Ply- 
 mouth, New Amsterdam and in Virginia progressed slowly. 
 True, they were builded on a firm foundation, but the advance- 
 ment in a century of their existence did not equal that of a 
 single decade in the more favored land of the farther West ! 
 
 The little "nugget" that first saw the light of day at Sut- 
 ter's Mill, was the talisman that wrought a wondrous change. 
 Its pure ring sounded and vibrated almost to the uttermost 
 bounds of the earth, and attracted a wave of emigration that 
 rushed, with all the speed of wind and tide, from both hemi- 
 spheres and, on our own continent, traversed the inhospitable 
 plains, scaled the rugged peaks of our western mountains, and 
 thus peopled the slumbering valleys and fertile plains from the 
 Sierras to the sea. 
 
 When the unpretending Marshall raised that little " nugget" 
 from its rest of centuries, wondering what manner of metal it 
 might be, little did he dream that his accidental discovery 
 would lead to such scenes as those in which we have partici- 
 pated, and to such results as the world now beholds! Even 
 the keen intelligence and education of Sutter, recognizing at 
 first sight the glittering gold, could not foresee the wonderful 
 and rapid transformation to be wrought from the incidents 
 
430 A GOOD WORD FOE THE MINEES. 
 
 of tliat day, whose recurring anniversary we have met to 
 celebrate. 
 
 A certain class of moralists are wont to inveigh roundly 
 against gold-hunting and gold-mining as demoralizing, revolu- 
 tionary and semi-barbarous ; as giving scope and activity to 
 the lower passions, encouraging men to waste, to habits of idle- 
 ness and improvidence, and causing them to neglect the higher 
 duties of life in the search for what they term " filthy lucre ;" 
 while the lucre itself they value highly, and sometimes worship, 
 after it is taken from mother earth and stamped as current 
 coin of the realm. We know that the idea thus sought to be 
 impressed is erroneous. And, gentlemen, I would stoutly de- 
 fend your early career in the '' diggin's " from any such unjust 
 aspersions. Whatever you are now, the great majority of those 
 before me were once " honest miners " — the representative men, 
 who with level heads, stout hearts and willing hands helped to 
 unlock the treasure-house of California, and at whose bidding 
 was poured forth the plenty that belongs to man. And these 
 results represent labor, honorable labor, which is the founda- 
 tion of all values ; those millions, whatever may be the changes 
 through which they have passed, and whatever may represent 
 them now, originally represented the industry, intelligence and 
 thrift of the gold-miners of California. 
 
 And just here I would say a good word in behalf of that 
 great army of irrepressible "prospectors," who, as skirmishers, 
 fringe the advancing line of our frontiers in search of " colors 
 to the pan,'' or of " pay rock," thus lead the way for a new 
 civilization, and for new and peaceful conquests. Thus has it 
 been from the discovery of that "nugget" at Coloma down to 
 the present day. 
 
 Following in quick succession, towns and cities were built. 
 States organized, broad acres cultivated, and the varied indus- 
 tries of man were quickened into life and activity by the fruc- 
 tifying influence of the gold-fields of the new El Dorado. 
 
 Nor has California alone received all the benefits resulting 
 from Marshall's discovery. They have been felt in almost 
 every part of the world — nowhere more than in our own coun- 
 try. Particularly in this imperial city, large enterprises have 
 
TOASTS AND EESPONSES. 431 
 
 been stimulated by tbe gold of tbe Pacific slope ; and we can 
 point to opulent bankers, enterprising railroad and shipping 
 proprietors and substantial merchants, who raised their first 
 " stake " in or through the California gold-mines, and without 
 which they might not have had the success to which they were 
 entitled. 
 
 As the mountain-springs and the modest rivulets are but the 
 beginnings of the majestic river and the mighty cataract, so 
 this apparently insignificant discovery by an humble laborer 
 has led to the wonderful development of the material interests 
 of that great West. The stillness of those primeval forests has 
 been broken by the echo of the locomotive, the frowning 
 Sierras have been subdued, and the wilderness made to blos- 
 som as the rose. Towers, domes and spires cast their shadows 
 upon the sea, on whose shores sits enthroned the palatial city, 
 whose rapid march to greatness has been the wonder of the 
 age. 
 
 To you, gentlemen, and to such as you, that discovery of 
 gold gave the well-improved opportunity of founding this new 
 empire on the shore of the Pacific — surely, " Peace hath her 
 victories no less renowned than war." 
 
 " California " — was responded to by Colonel Edward 
 F. Burton iu a humorous speech, which was frequently 
 applauded. 
 
 " General John A. Suttee " — was responded to by 
 General H. G. Gibson, in his happiest style. 
 
 " Pioneer Days "—by Joseph S. Spinney. 
 
 " Pacipic Railroad " — by Clark Bell. 
 
 " Our Honored Dead "—by Colonel Jas. M. Turner. 
 
 "Days of Torty-nijste "— by Samuel C. Upbam, of 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 "Woman"— by Colonel John A. Godfrey. 
 
 In response to " Days of ' Forty ^ine," Mr. Upham said : 
 
 Me. President and Brother Pioneers : — In response to 
 your invitation, I am here to-night, the guest of " The Asso- 
 ciated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," and I 
 
432 "the days of '49," AND 
 
 thank God that life and health have permitted me to be with 
 you on this occasion, an occasion fraught with incidents of the 
 past, in which we were all participants. 
 
 I was somewhat surprised, on Monday morning last, at re- 
 ceiving from the Secretary of this Society a postal card contain- 
 ing the following announcement : 
 
 " 4th regular toast— The Days of '49 ; response by S. C. 
 Upham." 
 
 Unfortunately, Mr. President, my tongue is not like the pen 
 of a ready writer. Rude am I of speech, and little blessed 
 with the accomplishments of the orator, yet I will, relying upon 
 your indulgence, 
 
 " A round, unvarnished tale deliver. 
 Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice." 
 
 At the re-union of Californians at the Centennial Grounds, in 
 Philadelphia, on the 9th of September last, I had the pleasure 
 of meeting, for the first time, the officers and several of the 
 members of this Society, and the kindly greeting and the 
 hearty welcome I have received this evening at their and your 
 hands, Mr. President, I shall ever cherish as one of the most 
 pleasurable events of my life. We met on that occasion to do 
 honor to the State, at whose birth — more than a quarter of a 
 century ago — many of us officiated as god-fathers. Our bant- 
 ling has long since cast off her swaddling-clothes, and to-day, 
 in the fullness of her maturity and matchless beauty, crowned 
 with the gems once hidden in her soil, she stands the brightest 
 and sunniest star in the constellation of the' States of our 
 glorious Union. The wealth of the Occident, that is constantly 
 pouring into her lap through the portals of the Golden Gate, 
 together with her unbounded mineral and agricultural re- 
 sources, have gained for her the honored and deserved title 
 of Queen of the Pacific. 
 
 To the members of this Society, Mr. President, and especially 
 to the untiring efforts of your Secretary, Mr. Francis D. Clark, 
 was the success of the re-union of the 9th of September last 
 chiefly due. That it was a success, in the fullest acceptation 
 
From a Photo by J. Rcnnic Smilh, >.'i*wark, N. J. 
 
 <:^-z^c<^ 
 
 O'^O^^^C^ -<^Tp^^:t-<^^ 
 
 c^^^ 
 
ME. 
 
 upham's kesponse. 435 
 
 of the term, no one who was present can gainsay. It was one 
 of the most noticeable and agreeable State re-unions that had 
 taken place at the Centennial Grounds up to that time, and 
 only in numbers was it subsequently excelled by the re-unions 
 of other States. 
 
 The citizens of California, Mr. President, who are interested 
 in the welfare and prestige of their State, owe to this Society 
 and its co-laborers their heartfelt thanks. Had they not put 
 their shoulders to the wheel, the name of California would not 
 have been inscribed on the roll of Centennial State re-unions. 
 In rendering the full meed of praise to this Society, I have no 
 desire to ignore the services of a few patriotic and liberal- 
 minded citizens of California and Nevada, who subscribed the 
 funds and caused the erection of the " Pacific Coast Centennial 
 Hall," under whose roof the re-union to which I have just 
 alluded took place. They also deserve the thanks of their 
 fellow-cifizens. Let us "render unto Caesar the things that 
 are Caesar's.'' 
 
 When I look around me to-night, Mr. President, and scan 
 the faces of my brother- Argonauts, memories of the past, inci- 
 dents by "flood and field" of the days when we went gold- 
 hunting, long, long ago, crowd as thickly upon the mind 
 
 " As leaves in Valambrosa !" 
 
 May those memories ever remain green in our hearts. 
 
 Days of 'Forty-nine ! Three simple, yet to me significant 
 words ; words that cause memories of the past to arise before 
 me. The long and tedious voyage around Cape Horn ; life in 
 the mines; scenes in camp and canon; across the Isthmus by 
 mule and bungo, are so indelibly photographed upon the retina 
 of the mind, that nothing but death will efiace them. Many 
 of our comrades who went forth in the flush of manhood never 
 returned, and their bones lie mouldering on the western plains, 
 in the sands of the ocean, and in the gulches and canons of the 
 far-ofi" Pacific slope. Occasionally, one of those modern Argo- 
 nauts found the golden fleece and returned home a richer if not 
 a wiser man ; but those cases were exceptions to the general 
 rule. A majority, after toiling months and years in the mines, 
 
436 MUSIO AND SONGS. 
 
 were as impecunious as the traditional fowl belonging to the 
 good man we read about who was afflicted with boils ! 
 
 In " the days of '49," the miner with his rude implements — 
 pick, spade, pan and rocker or cradle, minus the baby — toiled 
 early and late. When success crowned his efforts, he was jubi- 
 lant and built castles in the air, but the ill luck of the morrow 
 demolished those visionary fabrics, and with a saddened heart 
 he yearned for his far-away home and the loved ones around 
 the old hearthstone. In those days every miner was his own 
 cook and washerwoman, and I shall never forget my experiences 
 with the frying-pan and soiled unmentionables. I wrestled 
 long and ardently, but could never acquire that peculiar and 
 indescribable twist of the wrist which would enable me to flop 
 and turn a griddle-cake without landing it in the ashes. I 
 thought then and I promulgate it now, not in anger but with 
 sorrow, that as a 'cook and washist I was not a success ! 
 
 Those pioneer experiences in the culinary and washing line 
 have imbued me with an almost sacred reverence for cooks 
 and washerwomen, including that copper-colored, pig-tailed, 
 almond-eyed disciple of Confucius — 
 
 " With ways that are dark, 
 And tricks that are vain": — 
 
 the Heathen Chinee ! 
 
 In conclusion, Mr. President, let us — survivors of the old 
 guard — the forlorn hope — assembled here to-night, " eat, drink 
 and be merry," and for the nonce forget our gray hairs and 
 imagine ourselves young again ! 
 
 The theme of the next speaker was " Woman," but his 
 speech was mainly a philippic addressed to the gentleman, 
 an invited guest, who had preceded him. His vaporiugs 
 were allowed to pass unnoticed. 
 
 During the banquet, Charles Mollenhauer's Orchestra 
 discoursed excellent music, and between the toasts the 
 Union Glee Club sang concerted pieces, including the 
 " Song of the Argonauts ; or. The Days of '49." Professor 
 
SOITG BY PEOF. LOMBARD. 437 
 
 Lombard saug the bass solo of "The Dying Trooper," 
 with telling effect. The wine and cigars furnished for the 
 occasion were of California manufacture. The entertain- 
 ment broke up at a late hour, and, taken all in all, was an 
 enjoyable affair. 
 
 25 
 
CELEBRATION OF "ADMISSION DAY" AT 
 LONG BRANCH, N. J. 
 
 Programme of exercises — Pioneers present — The Banquet — Gen- 
 eral Gibson's address of welcome — Introduction of General Sut- 
 ter — Letters of regret — Mayor McKune's address — General Sut- 
 ter's response — Poem — "The Land We Adore" — Bayard Taylor 
 speaks a piece — "Song of the Argonauts" — Hop in the evening 
 in honor of General Sutter — Telegram sent to California— The 
 reply. 
 
 The Twenty-seventh Anniversary of the Admission of 
 California into the Union, was celebrated by the Argonauts 
 of 'Forty-nine, under the auspices of " The Associated 
 
 PlONEEES OF THE TeRRITOEIAL DaYS OF CALIFORNIA," 
 
 at the Ocean Hotel, Long Branch, N. J., on Saturday, 
 September 8th, 1877. The day was rainy and windy, but 
 the hardy Pioneers who had braved dangers by " flood and 
 field" in the days of '49, turned out in goodly numbers — 
 nearly two hundred strong — some of them accompanied 
 by their wives. Among the ladies present, were Miss 
 Sutter, daughter of the American consul at Acapulco, 
 Mexico, and granddaughter of General John A. Sutter; 
 Mrs. Francis D. Clark, Mrs. Prentice Mulford and Mrs. 
 S. C. Upham. The following committees were composed 
 of gentlemen belonging to " The Associated Pioneers of 
 the Territorial Days of California" whose head-quarters 
 are in New York : 
 
 (438) 
 
COMMITTEES. 
 
 439 
 
 September 9th, 
 1850. 
 
 September 9th, 
 1877. 
 
 COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS, 
 
 Gen. Thos. D. Johns, 
 Com. C. K. Garrison, Col. E. F. Burton, 
 
 Gen. Joseph Hooker, U. S. A., Charles E. Thompson, 
 
 Com'k E. W- Meade, U. S. N., S. L. Merchant, 
 
 Gen. James F. Curtis, John J. Hager, 
 
 Hon. Jeremiah Sherwood, John Gault. 
 
 committee on invitation. 
 
 John Siokels, Viee-Presid.ent. 
 George Howes, Hon. Demas Strono, 
 
 E. W. Ckowell, Wm. M. Walton, 
 
 Hon. D. M. Chahncey, John S. Ellis. 
 
 EECEPTION COMMITTEE. 
 
 Hon. E. M. Price, 
 Chas. "W. Schumann, 
 C. Lydecker, 
 
 Francis T>. Clare, 
 Secretary and Treasurer. 
 
 Hon. E. H. McKune, 
 
 John G. Hodge, 
 E. E. Anthony, 
 A. T. Goodell. 
 
 H. G. Gibson, 
 
 Brevet Brig.-Gen. TJ. S. A., 
 
 President, 
 
 The following programme of the exercises was carried 
 ont as announced : 
 
440 ORDER OF CEREMONIES. 
 
 RE-UNION OF CALIFORNIANS, 
 
 Under the Auspices of the 
 
 Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California, 
 
 (HEAD-QTJAETEES IN NEW YORK CITY,) 
 
 AT THE 
 
 Ocean Hotel, Long Branch, N. J. 
 On Saturday, September 8th, 1877, 
 
 .A.T 2.30 o'ciioaic, i=. i/n. 
 (Twenty-sevsnth Anniversary of the Admission of Caiifornia Into tlie Unioni) 
 
 Programme of Exercises, 
 
 In connection with the Dinner. 
 
 1. ADDRESS, hy General H. O. Gibson, U. S. A., 
 
 President of the Associated Pioneers. 
 
 2. MUSIC— "Star Spangled Banner." 
 
 3. ANNOUNCEMENT OF LETTERS, by the Secretary of the Society. 
 
 4. MUSIC—" Golden Gate Quickstep." 
 
 5. INTRODUCTION OP GEN. JOHN A. SUTTER, by Gen. R. 
 
 G. Gibson. 
 
 6. WELCOME, to Gen. John A. Sutter, Pioneer of 1838, 
 
 hy Son. B. S. McKune, Mayor of Scranton, Pa. 
 
 7. MUSIC— "Hail to the Chief." 
 
 8. POEM—" The Land We Adore," 
 
 Composed (expressly for this occasion,) and read by the author, 
 Samuel C. Upham, Esq., a '• 49er." 
 
 9. MUSIC— " Bonanza March." 
 
 10. A FEW REMARKS, by Col. E. P. Burton, a " Veteran " Pioneer. 
 
 11. " SONG OF THE ARGONAUTS ; OR, DAYS OF '49 " 
 
 Composed by S. C. Upham, Esq., of Philadelphia; and sung by Wm. 
 J. Hill, Esq. The audience will please join in the chorus. 
 
 12. MUSIC. — "Traumeres," — Schumann. 
 
 Orchestra under tlie Direction of Mr. Charles Mollenhauer. 
 
 j^" The Complimentary Hop tendered by Messrs. Charles and 'Waeben 
 
 Lelakd, Jr., inhonorof Gen. John A. SuTTEB, will take 
 
 place at 9 F. M. 
 
THE DINNER. 441 
 
 Conspicuous among the " Old Boys " -was General John 
 A. Sutter, the veteran Pioneer, aged seventy-five years, 
 but who looked as hale and hearty as many of his com- 
 rades a score of years younger. The morning was spent in 
 conversation, in the parlors, and at half-past two o'clock, 
 P. M., the Pioneers and their guests sat down to a sump- 
 tuous dinner. General H. G. Gibson, President of the 
 Associated Pioneers, occupied the central seat, and behind 
 him, on the wall, hung the " Old Bear Flag." On either 
 side of the flag were placards bearing the names of places 
 and events famous in the early history of California. By 
 the side of General Gibson sat General Sutter, and at his 
 side M'as seated Bayard Taylor. Near by was Hon. R. H. 
 McKune, Mayor of Scranton, Pa., just recovering from 
 wounds received at the hands of the railroad rioters, be- 
 cause he knew his duty, and dared to do it, despite mob 
 violence. There were also present ex-Governor Rodman 
 M. Price, of New Jersey, who assisted in raising the first 
 American flag in California, at Monterey, on July 7th, 
 1846; ex-Mayor "Vance, of New York; Hon. Demas 
 Strong, President of the first Common Council of Sacra- 
 mento City, in 1850 ; General Thomas D. Johns, E. W. 
 Crowell, Colonel Fritz, General McComb, Colonel T. B. 
 Thorpe, A. T. Goodell, General James F. Curtis, Com- 
 mander R. W. Meade, U. S. N., John Gault, Dr. Thos. 
 A. Bailey, Chas. R. Thompson, Chas. W. Schumann, John 
 G. Hodge, Colonel A. C. Ferris, who, in 1849, took the 
 first party, two hundred men, by way of Vera Cruz, to 
 San Bias, and thence to San Francisco, arriving on the 
 14th of May, ahead of all the parties that rounded Cape 
 Horn or went overland ; Colonel John Sickels, J. H. But- 
 ler, H. K. Cummings, J. C. Curry, J. J. McCloskey, the 
 California actor of '49 ; Francis D. Clark, Colonel Jos. E. 
 Lawrence and S. C. Uphara, early newspaper men of Sac- 
 ramento City, and Prentice Mulford, formerly of the Over- 
 land Monthly. After the dinner had been discussed, order 
 
442 GENERAL GIBSON's ADDRESS. 
 
 was called by General Gibson, who delivered the following 
 eloquent address of welcome to the Society and to General 
 Sutter : 
 
 Fellow-Pioneees, Ladies and Gentlemen : — In accord- 
 ance with a custom, long observed by the parent Societies of 
 the Pacific Coast, " The Associated Pioneers of the Tee- 
 EiTOEiAL Days op Califoenia," residing in the East, have 
 assembled here to-day to celebrate the anniversary of the ad- 
 mission of California into the American Confederation of States. 
 Twenty-seven years ago "the morrow morn," after a long and 
 bitter political contest in the halls of Congress, the State which 
 the Pioneers of California had founded and organized became 
 " a bright particular star " — wedded to the Union. The Treaty 
 of Guadalupe Hidalgo, terminating the war with Mexico, had 
 extended our dominion on the remote Pacific over a vast 
 region, to the south of 
 
 " the continuous woods 
 Where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound 
 Save its own dashings" — ■ 
 
 to US and the world at large a terra incognita. Beyond a nar- 
 row fringe of settlements — missions and presidios — on its line 
 of coast from Cape Mendocino to Cape San Lucas, but little 
 was known of the geography, character and resources of the 
 territory of the Californias. To the commerce of the world, it 
 was but a land of hides and tallow. The expeditions of the 
 renowned Pioneer and Path-finder, John C Feemont, opened 
 to our people and to the world, a knowledge of its beauty, fer- 
 tility and wealth. Though the mighty river, rising in the great 
 Cordillerean chain, and cleaving, in its course to the ocean, the 
 majestic Sierras that shut out California from the rest of the 
 continent, and which the explorer's glowing fancy fondly pic- 
 tured as freighted in the future with the argosies of a rich 
 commerce — was never found; yet from the summit of the 
 Sierras, the proud Pioneer gazed upon a region which, although 
 in its native primeval wildness, gave a glorious promise of 
 future opulence and greatness. Distance had not lent en- 
 chantment to the view, for on nearer approach it was found to 
 be a land of wondrous fertility and surpassing loveliness. 
 
GENEEAL GIBSON'S ADDEESS. 443 
 
 But, Pioneers, I -will not detain you by dwelling upon the 
 material and physical beauty of the land with its delightful 
 clime, the charming pastoral life with its serene repose and 
 quiet felicity, before the modern Sassenach came with grim- 
 visaged war, or the modern Argonaut seeking the golden ore ; nor 
 wUl I, in this greeting of mine, indulge in the rich-fraught retro- 
 spect of the past, or upon the real presence of to-day, or the 
 glowing visions of the future — of the magical changes wrought, 
 of the brilliant, substantial results accomplished, through much 
 tribulation, toil and suffering ; for you, who shared in the ex- 
 citing scenes and trying incidents of early California days, know 
 them well. In the bright glow of memory's light, you can look 
 back and proudly say : " Out of the rocks of California we 
 carved and shaped a noble State, beautiful in its every aspect of 
 nature, rich in every product of art and culture, grand in its 
 origin, grander in its career, grandest in the golden virtues of 
 its people." 
 
 Impressed with all this, I bid you a cordial, gladsome wel- 
 come here to-day, and with the cherished memories of " auld 
 lang syne," of "the joys that we've tasted," with the golden 
 reminiscences of the fair Golden State, extend to each and all 
 of you, the kindliest greeting of heart and hand. The mighty 
 surf that rolls upon the grand old beach at our feet gives you 
 a welcome, too, in its every tone, and sound, and roar, as it re- 
 calls to mind the booming of a mightier surf of a grander 
 ocean, that beats on the rock-bound coast of California, and 
 pours its tides and billows through the portals of the Golden 
 Gate. As old ocean's spray mingles with the vintage in our 
 cups that we drink to California ; as its sounds blend with the 
 notes of softer music, it welcomes you in the name of its sister 
 ocean ; and we need not ask, like little Paul Dombey, "what 
 are the wild waves saying?" for they speak to us of joys and 
 trials, dangers and delights, in the far-off Golden Land we love 
 so well. 
 
 Ladies, I bid you welcome, welcome, too. Feeble though be 
 the expression, I trust you will not find it lacking in that sweet 
 courtesy, which "it is very meet, right, and our bounden duty" 
 to render to the fairer, gentler portion of humanity. Though 
 
444 A TRIBUTE TO WOMAN. 
 
 " bright eyes " may not " speak love to eyes whicli speak 
 again," still whilst " soft music rises witli a voluptuous swell " 
 we may tell you " of the dangers we have passed," of the 
 ■' most disastrous chances " of our California life — unshared, un- 
 soothed by your sweet companionship, and some fair Desde- 
 mona may seriously incline to hear, to believe, to pity and to 
 love. And we may tell you, too, on the faith of y° truthful 
 journalists of the day, that, in California, " in the desert a 
 fountaia is springing," from the virtues of whose waters, 
 beauty ever retains its freshness and bloom, youth its grace, 
 comeliaess and strength, and "let thy loveliness fade as it 
 wUl," the 
 
 " endearing young ctarms 
 We gaze on bo fondly to-day," 
 
 wiU return with a brighter glow and sweeter attraction. 
 
 "Tourney and joust that charmed the eye, 
 And scarf and gorgeous panoply. 
 And nodding plume " — 
 
 have gone with the age and flower of chivalry. We no longer 
 summon to the lists, or to the field of mortal combat, the rivals 
 in our love ; yet in this sober, practical age, the smiles and 
 favors of fair woman are as sweet, as precious, as dear to us ; 
 we are as proud and ready to throw or accept the gauntlet in 
 her cause, to make every sacrifice for our love, as 
 
 " the gentle knights that came 
 To kneel and breathe love's ardent flame 
 Low at her feet." 
 
 " The smiles from partial beauty won " — 
 
 " to know there is an eye will mark 
 Our coming, and grow brighter when we come ;'' 
 
 "dear woman's loving prattle," which "flows with sweet 
 meanings for the heart alone" — are our proudest triumphs, 
 our "empire of perfect bliss" in youth, our glory and delight 
 in manhood, our joy and solace in declining years. Like the 
 Pleiades that so "purely sparkle in Heaven," she "sheds her 
 
INTKODTJCING GENERAL SUTTEE. 445 
 
 sweet influence over the earth," and man, who lords it over all 
 the rest of creation, yields at once to beauty's charms and 
 woman's loving wiles. The Paradise of Mahomet, with houris 
 of exquisite form and feature, was but an unrefined expression 
 of the power and influence wielded by woman, and with our 
 knowledge of their potency in this enlightened age, do we 
 wonder at the brilliant success and rapid spread of the Moslem 
 faith, in a darker era, when the enjoyment of woman's loving- 
 ness and loveliness was the promised reward of every true 
 believer, every faithful follower of the standard of the Prophet? 
 And under the benign influence of a purer religion, we believe 
 that those whose gentle hands and sweet, loving faces cheer 
 and console us in this vale of tears, will be at our side in the 
 realms of celestial light before the throne of God ; 
 
 " For love is Heaven, and Heaven is love." 
 
 In introducing General Sutter, General Gibson said : 
 
 The patriarchs of Israel, when they assembled their kindred 
 and people in the land, which the God of Abraham, Isaac and 
 Jacob had given them to possess it ; the mighty conquerors of 
 the world from Xenophon to Napoleon, when, at the momentous 
 crisis of perilous conflict, there rallied around them the legions 
 known " by the tried valor of their hands ;" the proud chief- 
 tains of the Highlands, when they gathered their clans for 
 counsel, battle, foray or raid, felt that exultant joy and grateful 
 pride, which is inspired by the fealty and devotion of those 
 bound to each other by the ties of blood, afiection or associa- 
 tion. The noble patriarch and world-famed Pioneer, at whose 
 feet to-day we lay our tribute of love and honor, must be in- 
 spired by the same proud and grateful feelings, when he looks 
 around upon the faces of his clansmen and his children — the 
 Pioneers of California. For no patriarch of Israel, no warrior 
 of ancient or modern renown, no chieftain of Highland clan, 
 ever found kith or kin, liege-vassal or soldier, clansman or 
 servitor more loyal and true than those who bid him welcome 
 here to-day ; than those who, on the distant Pacific recall with 
 
446 GENERAL GIBSON's SPEECH. 
 
 us the deeds and virtues of that great heart, that not only gave 
 the open sesame to the treasures of California, but out of the 
 riches of its bounty fed the hungry, clothed the naked, relieved 
 the distress of every -wayworn traveler, every weary pilgrim of 
 the plains. As the instrument under God of the discovery of 
 gold, long Iain hid in the recesses of California, and thus the 
 conferrer of a glorious boon upon us, upon California, and upon 
 our -whole country, we do him all-grateful honor ; as our grand 
 old patriarch and noble chieftain, we pay him leal and grateM 
 reverence; but for his golden deeds of charity and rich benefi- 
 cence, we give him a wealth of love and gratitude from our 
 inmost hearts. To-day we look upon his kindly, noble face— 
 the outward expression of a pure heart and a stainless life— 
 and pray that God may bless him and give him length of days, 
 with peace and health, happiness and abundance. To Cali- 
 fornians everywhere, his name is a household word ; and in 
 after years, when our children's children shall gather by the 
 winter's hearth, old gossips' tales shall tell of the noble 
 deeds and golden virtues of John A. Sutter, the glorious Pio- 
 neer ! The countryman of Tell ! The countryman of Wash- 
 ington! The beauty, purity and bravery of his life, the 
 nobility of his nature, the kindliness of his heart, the generosity 
 and benignity of his character, elevate him nigh unto their 
 stature; in all that ennobles man, the peer of the one, the peer 
 of the other. 
 
 The nation, through cold or thoughtless selfishness, or want 
 of appreciation of his "life of honor and of worth," may 
 deny him the just guerdon of his great services, but long ere 
 the muffled drum within us shall beat its last tattoo, history 
 and song shall recount the story of that life in choicest diction 
 and glowing rhythm, and " on the painter's canvas shall grow 
 his life of beauty." A life of virtue and of fame, worthy to 
 be commemorated, not only in more modest bronze or marble, 
 but in the richest metal from California's golden store. I say 
 that history, song and art will yet redeem in part the shame 
 and reproach of the Republic for its neglect of its great bene- 
 factor, but with you 
 
The 
 
 MAYOE, McKUjSTE's WELCOME. 447 
 
 "His signal deeds and virtues high 
 Demands no pompous eulogy ; 
 
 Ye saw his deeds 1 
 Why should their praise in verse be sung? 
 The name that dwells on every tongue 
 
 No minstrel needs." 
 
 " Fresh laurel wreaths we bring to-day 
 To crown the patriarch," 
 
 may wither, but for a life well spent " there is laid up for him 
 a crown of glory which fadeth not away." With all due honor 
 to the other illustrious Pioneers of Christendom, I now intro- 
 duce to you the noblest Roman of them all, our renowned 
 patriarch and honored chieftain, General John A. Sutter. 
 [Great applause.] 
 
 Mayor McKune, of Scranton, then delivered the follow- 
 ing address of welcome to General Sutter : 
 
 General Suttee : — Having been selected by my associates 
 to tender to you our hearty congratulations and join with you 
 in earnest thanks to our Heavenly Father for His mercies who 
 has protected you another year, and given you strength that 
 has enabled you to join with us in celebrating the twenty- 
 seventh anniversary of the admission of California to the 
 Union of States, I am bidden by my associates to welcome 
 you to our re-union, and to assure you that your presence fills 
 our cup of gratification unto fullness. I have no language to 
 express the pleasure your presence affords us. Your name, sir, 
 is indissolubly joined to that of the Pioneer days of California. 
 It was in the furtherance of your enterprises that the earth 
 gave up her treasures, that had been hidden from the sight of 
 man from creation. The development of those treasures 
 changed the commerce of the world. The Golden Gate 
 saluted, as they passed through, the ensigns of every maritime 
 nation. In a word, " the world was turned upside down." 
 But amid the disappointments and sufierings of hundreds of 
 the pioneers and amid " man's inhumanity to man " there stood 
 
448 A WARM TKIBUTE TO GEN. SUTTEE. 
 
 out one name bright over all ; one heart that beat in sympathy 
 for the unfortunate ; one hand to relieve the distressed. That 
 heart, that hand, dear General, was yours, and your name is 
 remembered with the warmest emotions of gratitude by hun- 
 dreds whom your princely generosity relieved in the hour of 
 their distress. We remember with pleasure that every project 
 for the advancement of the interests of California, found in 
 you a hearty supporter. That amid the noble men who assem- 
 bled at Monterey to form the first Constitution, your name led 
 all the rest. In the long years of j'our residence in California, 
 there was no honorable citizen but felt himself honored to be 
 called your friend. You have lived to see California pass from 
 petty Mexican rule and occupy a high position amid its sister 
 States. And though you and I, in our declining days, have 
 found a home amid the hills and valleys of the Keystone 
 State, yet, I doubt not that our hearts go out in unison this day 
 in earnest desires for the future welfare of California. 
 
 As I look around among my associates who are here to-day, 
 I find the army and navy of our country well represented by 
 associates whose names their country has placed high on the 
 roll of fame. The civil professions and the various ranks of 
 business here find worthy representatives. The incidents of 
 our California days can never be effaced from our memories, 
 and we beg to assure you that though the efibrts we have 
 hitherto made for an honorable settlement of your claims 
 upon the general government have been unsuccessful, we 
 hereby pledge ourselves, not only to use our individual, but to 
 continue our united efforts until justice shall be done to you 
 and yours. 
 
 Trusting, sir, that this day's re-union may bring to you sweet 
 and pleasant memories of the past, and bind us together in 
 closer fellowship, and as the shades of night gather around 
 your pathway, you will be cheered by the assurance that you 
 leave behind those who will always cherish your name with 
 the warmest afiection of their whole nature. 
 
 General Sutter arose in response to the hearty applause 
 which followed Mayor McKune's address, and with a sup- 
 
LETTER FEOM JOAQUIN MILLER. 449 
 
 pressed voice expressed his inability to respond adequately 
 to the remarks which were so flattering to him, and which 
 he so thoroughly appreciated. "It is not possible," he 
 said — but here words failed him, and he sat down, when 
 the assembled Argonauts rose up as one man, and waving 
 their glasses in the air, gave three cheers that utterly 
 drowned the music of the band. 
 
 Letters of regret were read by the Secretary, Mr. Francis 
 D. Clark, from President Hayes, General Sherman, Gov- 
 ernor Irwin, of California, Governor Robinson, General 
 Hancock, Mayor Ely, Mr. Peter Dean, President of " The 
 Society of California Pioneers," General ¥. J. Ijippitt, 
 General Joseph W. Revere, who, when a lieutenant in the 
 navy, in 1846, raised the first American flag at Sonoma; 
 Vice-Admiral S. C. Rowan and John "W. Livingston, of 
 the United States Navy, bolh of whom were lieutenants 
 during the conquest of California, and served on that 
 coast ; General Edward F. Beale, Gilmor Meredith and 
 R. R. Grifath, Jr. The regrets of Joaquin Miller, Poet 
 of the Sierras, were conveyed in the following character- 
 istic letter and poem : 
 
 General Gibson, Peancis D. Claek, and others of 
 THE Associated Pioneers o^ California :— I thank you 
 for your kind invitation to dinner at the gathering of your 
 great and good brotherhood, but I am at work and cannot be 
 with you. But do not imagine that I have forgotten you or 
 the great gold shore by the vast west sea. A great land, a 
 great people, and a great period in history — surely, they are 
 worthy of all that can be said or sung, and my song is still of 
 the Pacific : 
 
 My brave world-builders of the West ! 
 
 "Why, -who hath known ye ? "Who shall know 
 
 But I, who on thy peaks of snow 
 Sang songs the first ! I loved you best ; 
 
 I hold you still of more stern worth 
 
 Than all proud peoples of the earth. 
 
450 "the land we adore," 
 
 Yea, I, the rhymer of wild rhymea, 
 
 Indifferent of blame or praise, 
 
 Still sing of you as one who playa 
 The same wild air in all strange climes — 
 
 The same wild, piercing, highland air, 
 
 Because — because his heart is there. 
 
 Joaquin Miller. 
 New York, August SOth, 1877. 
 
 The following poem, written for the occasion, was then 
 read by its author : 
 
 THE LAND WE ADOEE. 
 
 BY SAMUEL C. UPHAM, A " 'POETY-NINEE." 
 
 Comrades and Brothers, we're assembled to-day. 
 But not as plumed warriors in battle array — 
 Assembled to honor the young Golden State, 
 Whose birth and whose grandeur we now celebrate. 
 
 The gleam of the camp-fires of emigrant trains, 
 Is seldom now seen on the far-away plains, 
 The screech of the engine, so loud and so shrill, 
 Comes echoing back from each canon and hill. 
 The grizzly starts up with a snort and a growl, 
 The wolf and coyote chime in with a howl. 
 The buffalo tosses the earth in the air, 
 And the panther, aroused, springs up from his lair. 
 
 The antelope leaps o'er the plain in affright, 
 The prairie dog barks from morn until night, 
 From his eyrie the eagle looks down in disdain. 
 As the steam-whistle shrieks its startling refrain. 
 Our camp-fires no longer illume the ravine, 
 The Pan and the Rocker are rarely now seen, 
 Flap-jacks and frijoles, our diet of yore, 
 Have flown like a vision to return nevermore. 
 
"the land we ADOKEp" 451 
 
 The Tom and the Sluice-box, once sparkling with gold, 
 
 No longer wash out the auriferous mould ; 
 
 The Quartz Mill and Crusher have taken their place. 
 
 And steam 's declared victor again in the race. 
 
 Our cabins now roofless and gone to decay. 
 
 Like their tenants of old, are passing away ; 
 
 The grave on the hillside, with head-board decayed, 
 
 Marks the spot where a comrade we long ago laid. 
 
 O woman, dear woman ! pure as gold without dross, 
 
 The first at the tomb and the last at the cross. 
 
 Thy presence ne'er cheered us in camp nor in mine. 
 
 In those long-ago days, the days of lang syne — 
 
 When the toils of the day had drawn to a close, 
 
 And wrapped in our blankets in silent repose, 
 
 Our thoughts wandered back to our sweethearts and wives, 
 
 The loved ones for whom we had periled our lives. 
 
 Famed Yerha Buena, old town by the sea. 
 Demolished long since by fate's stern decree. 
 Thy adobes all crumbled and razed to the ground. 
 Not a trace of thy walls is now to be found ; 
 On thy site has been builded the Queen of the West, 
 Close by the portals, by the Golden Gate's crest. 
 Where church dome and steeple point up to the sky. 
 And the Stars and the Stripes wave proudly on high. 
 
 Thy city and harbor, proud golden-gemmed Queen, 
 Are rivalled by none the world has e'er seen ; 
 Thy merchants and bankers, like Crcesus of old, 
 Have locked in their coffers their millions untold. 
 The school-house and college, like beacon-lights, stand 
 In vale and on hill-top, the pride of thy land ; 
 Still, we in thy closet two skeletons see — 
 The vagabond " Hoodlum" and " Heathen Chinee." 
 
 Hamlets like magic to large cities have grown, 
 The ranehero has reaped the grain he has sown, 
 
452 "the land we adore." 
 
 The vine and tlie fig-tree are laden with fruit, 
 And the breezes blow soft as the tones of the lute ; 
 The orange-tree blossoms and fruits in the vale, 
 The date and pomegranate, 'mid sand and the shale, 
 The filbert and almond, and manna of yore. 
 All abound in the land that we love and adore. 
 
 The Sequoias giganiea, when the earth was quite young, 
 And birds in fair Eden their sweet music sung, 
 Then upward were towering in days far remote, 
 As the rings 'round their trunks unerringly note. 
 For thousands of years, as firmly as rocks. 
 These giants have braved the hurricanes' shocks — 
 Are older than Noah, the man without guile. 
 Older than Cheops in the vale of the Nile. 
 
 The Ship of the Desert,* long buried from view. 
 Once manned by Arch Masons — King Solomon's crew — 
 She sailed from the East bound for Ophir's gold shore. 
 But, shipwrecked and stranded, returned nevermore ; 
 Her hull lies imbedded on the alkali plain. 
 And the desert simoon ever sings her refrain. 
 Sings the dirge of the sailors, those Masons of old. 
 Who never returned with their cargo of gold. 
 
 Fond recollections of the long-ago times. 
 
 Come echoing back like the music of chimes ; 
 
 The Tuolumne rolls on as in ages of yore. 
 
 The Stanislaus laves its auriferous shore. 
 
 The Bear and the Yuba flow down to the sea. 
 
 Bright flowers are still blooming, and green is each tree ; 
 
 The Sierras tower up in their helmets of snow, 
 
 And the wild rose and tul6 still wave to and fro ; 
 
 Diablo, proud monarch, all grizzled and gray. 
 
 Looms up in the distance his realm to survey. 
 
 * Some four or five years ago, the decayed hull of a ship was found 
 imbedded in the sand of the great Western Desert. When and from 
 what port did she sail, and to what nation did she belong ? 
 
BAYAED TAYLOK SPEAKS. 453 
 
 But -where are our comrades of long-ago days ? 
 
 Some, grouped around me, crowned with laurels and bays,* 
 
 Others are present, with locks frosted by age. 
 
 Whose names add new lustre to history's page ;t 
 
 And Stevenson's veterans^ are with us to-day, 
 
 Erst from Sonoma, La Paz and old Monterey — 
 
 Heroes, who helped add to the red, white and blue, 
 
 A bright golden star, ever loyal and true. 
 
 Others lie mouldering on the plains of the "West, 
 
 Their spirits have soared to the land of the blest. 
 
 Where soon we shall meet on that far-away shore, 
 
 Shall meet, and shall greet, and shall part nevermore. 
 
 At the conclusion of the poem, Mr. J. Berry, a "48er," 
 delivered a humorous speech, which was frequently ap- 
 plauded. 
 
 Mr. Bayard Taylor, the next speaker, said he did not. 
 believe there was anything more wonderful in the march 
 of Godfrey to Jerusalem than in the early argosy to Cali- 
 fornia. It was a democracy of law and order, sustained 
 merely by human nature. He had a kind of pity for 
 those who did not have the pioneer's experience, and he 
 recalled the time when he first saw San Francisco, in.l849, 
 when there were more vessels in the harbor than canvas 
 houses on the land ; when Fremont was living there in a 
 hut, and when the speaker had slept several nights under 
 the same blanket with the Duke of Sonora.. When he 
 laat saw General Sutter he was in Monterey, in 1849, after 
 the Constitution had been adopted. There was a dauce 
 
 * Generals Joe Hooker, Winfield S. Hancoct, Horatio G. Gibson, 
 Silas Casey, Thos. D. Johns, Francis J. Lippitt, Nelson Taylor and 
 Colonel Geo. W. Patten, U. S. Army ; Vice-Admiral S. C. Rowan and 
 Commander E. W. Meade, U. S. Navy. 
 
 t Generals John A. Sutter and John C. Fremont ; Commodore C. K. 
 Garrison, Hon. E. M. Price, Hon. E. H. McKune and General John S. 
 Ellis. _ 
 
 % Lieutenant Jeremiah Sherwood, Privates Francis T>. Clark, Eussell 
 Myers, Chas. J, McPherson, William C. Eogers, James Nuttman and 
 Squire G. Merrill. 
 26 
 
454 THE GRAND HOP. 
 
 given in honor of the occasion, and as there were but 
 eleven ladies to one hundred and twenty gentlemeUj he 
 had taken General Sutter for his lady, and been whirled 
 about until he was breathless. He said that things had 
 all changed since in California, that money was now 
 sought for itself alone, and the miner no longer quoted 
 Horace in the original and read Emerson in his tent. 
 
 After the singing, by Mr. Wm. J. Hill, of the "Song of the 
 Argonauts ; or, the Days of 'Forty-nine," written by Mr. 
 S. C. Upham, in the chorus of which the entire company 
 joined ; the reading of a resolution indorsing The 
 Pioneer, a paper published at San Jose, Cal., and adopting 
 it as the organ of the Society, the party broke up until 
 evening. 
 
 At nine o'clock, P. M., the company gathered again in the 
 large parlor of the hotel, and joined in a complimentary 
 hop tendered to General Sutter, by Messrs. Charles and 
 Warren Leland, Jr. The walls of the ball-room were deco- 
 rated with banners bearing brief sentences in illuminated 
 letters, recalling events and persons familiar to all the 
 pioneers of California. The tripping of the " light fan- 
 tastic toe" was kept up until a late hour. Everything 
 passed off pleasantly, and the joyous event, with its pleas- 
 ing associations, will never be forgotten by the jiarticipants. 
 
 Before the commencement of the exercises of the day, 
 the following greeting was telegraphed to the Pioneers of 
 the Pacific slope : 
 
 Long Beanch, N. J., September 8th, 1877. 
 
 To THE Califoenia Pioneees, assembled at San Jose, 
 California : 
 
 To our friends in Eureka, the old Pioneers, 
 We send kindly greetings and three hearty cheers. 
 Three cheers and a tiger for the young Golden State, 
 Whose birth and whose grandeur we to-day celebrate. 
 
GEEETIlSrGS BY TELEGKAPH. 455 
 
 General John A. Sutter, standing on the Atlantic beach, 
 surrounded by his associates of early days, sends his greet- 
 ings. God bless you aU. 
 
 Feancis D. Clark, 
 
 Seo'y Associated Pioneers. 
 
 The following response was received late in the after- 
 noon : 
 
 San Jose, Cal., September 8th, 1877. 
 Francis D. Clark, Long Branch, N. J. — " The Society of 
 California Pioneers," and the " Santa Clara County Pioneers," 
 greet their brothers of the Atlantic shore. May your lives be 
 prolonged and prosperity ever yours. 
 
 A. C. Bradford, 
 
 See'y California Pioneers. 
 Alex. P. Muegotten, 
 
 Seo'y Santa Clara Co. Pioneers. 
 
THIRD ANNUAL EE-UNION AND BANQUET 
 OF " THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE 
 TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA." 
 
 Secretary and Treasurer Clark's report — President Gibson's annual 
 address — Election of officers for tlie current year — The banquet — 
 Programme of exercises — General H. G. Gibson's address of wel- 
 come — Letters of regret — Prentice Mulford's address — Speeches 
 by Judge Pratt, Colonel T. B. Thorpe, Colonel Edward P. Burton, 
 Clark Bell, J. J. McCloskey, Colonel Joe Lawrence, Hon. Demas 
 Strong, Joseph S. Spinney, Francis D. Clark and General Thomas 
 D. Johns — "Y° Ancient Yuba Miner" — Notables present — 
 " Song of the Argonauts " — Good-night. 
 
 On Friday evening, January 18th, 1878, " The Asso- 
 ciated Pioneers op the Teeiiitoeial Days of Cali- 
 FOENiA," held their third annual re-union and banquet, 
 at the Sturtevant House, New York City, being the thir- 
 tieth anniversary of the discovery of gold at Sutter's saw- 
 mill, at Coloma. Previous to the banquet, the annual 
 meeting and election of officers took place, as follows : 
 
 President Gibson called the meeting to order, and Secre- 
 tary Clark read the minutes of the annual meeting, fol- 
 lowing which the Secretary presented and read his report 
 for the year ending that date, as also a review of the pro- 
 gress of the organization from the evening of its formation, 
 February 11th, 1875, to date. Secretary Clark concluded 
 with his report as Treasurer of the Society, the duties of 
 which office had been performed by him in connection with 
 those of Secretary. The minutes, reports and review were 
 approved. 
 
 General Gibson presented and read his annual address, 
 
 (456) 
 
NEW MEMBEKS. 457 
 
 which, in addition to a history of the Society for the past 
 year, contained many valuable suggestions. 
 
 General Johns moved that a committee of three be ap- 
 pointed by the President, to whom the address of that 
 officer, and the reports and the review of the Secretary 
 should be referred, with directions to take into considera- 
 tion the suggestions therein offered, and report upon the 
 same. 
 
 The President named Messrs. C. Lydecker, G. F. Snif- 
 fin and J. F. Curtis as said committee. 
 
 Hon. Demas Strong addressed the Society upon its very 
 flattering progress during the three years of its existence, 
 and urged upon each member the duty of using his influ- 
 ence to further its interests, and also paid a very high 
 compliment to Secretary Clark for the zeal and energy 
 displayed by that officer in promoting the welfare of the 
 Society, and concluded by a motion that a committee of 
 three be appointed by the President to prepare a suitable 
 testimonial to be presented to Secretary Clark in recogni- 
 tion of his past services and the appreciation in which he 
 is held by his associates. 
 
 The President named Hon. Demas Strong and Messrs. 
 Joseph S. Spinney and "W. M. Walton, as said committee. 
 
 On motion of Mr. Spinney, the sum of |150 was placed 
 in the hands of the Secretary to meet the expense of sta- 
 tionery, printing and postage for the ensuing year. 
 
 On motion of Colonel Edward F. Burton, a fine copy of 
 the " Group of '49 members," recently prepared for the 
 Society, handsomely framed, was presented to the Secretary, 
 the expense thereof to be defrayed out of the treasury. 
 
 The Secretary presented to the Society the names of 
 General John C. Fremont, General Joseph W. Eevere and 
 Judge Theron Per Lee, and on motion these gentlemen 
 were duly elected members of the Society. General Revere 
 was the officer who hauled down the celebrated "Bear 
 Flag" and hoisted the American flag in its stead at 
 
458 ELECTION OF OFFICEES. 
 
 Sonoma, July, 1846 — and Judge Per Lee was a lieutenant 
 in Stevenson's regiment ; the former resides at Morristown, 
 New Jersey, the latter at Baltimore, Md. 
 
 The Vice-President presented some proposed amendments 
 to the present " Articles of Association," as also several 
 new articles, and the Secretary read each with care, and no 
 objection being offered, Mr. James A. Sperry moved their 
 adoption, with the understanding that a committee should 
 be appointed by the President farther to examine the same 
 and make such corrections as to the committee may seem 
 proper, their action to be final. 
 
 The President named General Thos. D. Johns, Messrs. 
 J. A. Sperry and J. Gault said committee. 
 
 Vice-President Sickels moved that the Society now pro- 
 ceed with the election of officers, in accordance with the 
 adopted amendment, which provides for the election of one 
 President, ten Vice-Presidents, one Secretary, one Trea- 
 surer and nine Trustees, which motion was adopted. 
 
 General Gibson, the President of the Society, named 
 General John A. Sutter, the venerable and esteemed pio- 
 neer, as his successor, and upon a motion to that effect, the 
 nominee was elected by acclamation. General Sutter was 
 then conducted by General Gibson to the chair. General 
 Sutter thanked his associates for the honor they had con- 
 ferred upon him that evening, and wished he possessed the 
 ability to fill the position as creditably as his predecessor. 
 The election then proceeded, when the following gentlemen 
 were chosen to the respective ofiices : 
 
 Vice-Presidents — General H. G. Gibson, U. S. A.; John 
 Sickels, New York ; George Howes, New York ; Hon. Demas 
 Strong, Brooklyn, N. Y. ; J. J. Hager, Khinebeck, N. Y. ; 
 Samuel C. Upham, Philadelphia, Pa. ; Gilmor Meredith, Bal- ■ 
 timore, Md. ; General E. F. Beale, Washington, D. C. ; Hon. 
 E. H. McKune, Scranton, Pa. ; "William M. Walton, Newark, 
 N.J. 
 
PEOVISION FOE LIBKAEY. 459 
 
 Secretary — Francis D. Clark. 
 
 Treasurer — Hon. Jeremiah. Sherwood. 
 
 TrMsiees— General Thomas W. Sweeny, U. S. A. ; General 
 Thos. D. Johns, Colonel E. F. Burton, Geo. F. Sniffin, E. K. 
 Anthony, James A. Sperry, W. C. Annan, C. Lydecker and 
 E. W. Crowell. 
 
 Vice-President Gibson presented the name of Reuben 
 Lord for election to honorary membership, as provided in 
 the amendments adopted this evening. Vice-President 
 Sickels presented the name of Effingham B. Sutton, of 
 New York, and on motion of Colonel Burton, these gentle- 
 men were duly elected. (Honorary membership is only 
 conferred upon those who are not otherwise eligible, having 
 never been residents of California, but who were identified 
 with the commercial interests of California prior to the 9th 
 of September, 1850.) 
 
 Mr. Joseph Evans moved th^t the sum of $100 be ap- 
 propriated and placed in the hands of the Secretary, to 
 enable that officer to secure, for the proposed library of the 
 Society, such works on California as are becoming scarce, 
 and apply to its early history and the first stages of the 
 gold discoveries, said fund to be accounted for at the next 
 annual meeting. Carried. 
 
 General Johns moved that all expenditures made by the 
 Treasurer during the past year in the interest of the So- 
 ciety be approved. Adopted. 
 
 Mr. Dowling moved that the meeting now adjourn, in 
 order to attend the banquet, and that the President be 
 requested to call a special meeting of the Society at the 
 head-quarters, on Monday evening, Feb. 18th. Carried. 
 
 At the conclusion of the meeting, the Pioneers, with their 
 guests, proceeded to the spacious dining-room, which was 
 profusely and tastefully embellished with the national col- 
 ors and picturesque mottoes, recalling vividly to mind 
 Pioneer life in California. A sketch of Sutter's saw-mill. 
 
460 THE BANQUET. 
 
 copied from an old photograph, was drawn with Castile 
 soap on a large mirror at the upper end of the hall. On 
 another mirror was sketched, with the same material, a 
 grizzly bear, with the years " 1848 " and " 1878 " on either 
 side. 
 
 The walls were embellished with placards bearing the 
 following inscriptions : " The Flag-men of 1846 — Sloat, 
 Stockton and Shubrick ;" " Stevenson's Regiment New York 
 Volunteers, 1847;" "Gems of the Ocean— Ships Three 
 Brothers and Young America, ^&ti Francisco;" "Sutter's 
 Mill;" "September 9th, 1850;" "Marshall, January, 
 18th,1848;" "Monterey, July 7th, 1846;" and "Sonoma." 
 The table adornments included numerous designs, the most 
 noticeable being a finely- executed hunting scene in a Cali- 
 fornia canon. At the foot of the main table was a chair 
 slightly elevated, on which was fastened a card with a deep 
 black border, with the name, "Godfrey." On the 
 seat of the chair was a beautiful floral monument. This 
 was in memory of a deceased member of the Society, 
 Colonel John A. Godfrey, who died March 2d, 1877. The 
 chair occupied the position always taken by Colonel God- 
 frey at the former banquets of the Society. 
 
 The Pioneers and their guests numbered about one hun- 
 dred, and as they filed into the dining-room they assembled 
 around the tables, and remained standing while the quar- 
 tette, under the direction of Mr. Gilbert, accompanied by 
 the orchestra, sang, " Praise God from whom all blessings 
 flow." General H. G. Gibson, U. S. A., senior Vice- 
 President, presided, and at his side sat General John A. 
 Sutter, President of the Society. The menu was worthy 
 of the world-renowned name, " Leland," and upon this 
 occasion the Messrs. Lewis and George S. Leland, of the 
 " Stuetevant," did full honor to the name, while the 
 wines, which were of California vintage, in point of 
 abundance and quality were unexceptionable. While the 
 orchestra furnished choice and popular selections of music, 
 
THE PEOGEAMME. 461 
 
 the company proceeded to discuss the dinner, and in this 
 agreeable duty fully two hours passed pleasantly away. 
 In the meantime, the grizzled veterans were renewing ac- 
 quaintances formed in the days of '49 and '50. At the 
 conclusion of the dinner the " feast of reason and flow of 
 soul " followed. The following programme was fully car- 
 ried out : 
 
 An Address of "Welcome, by Vice-President Geneeal H. 
 G. Gibson, U. S. A. 
 
 The Announcement of Letters from Absentees, by the Sec- 
 retary. 
 
 Poem, " The Land We Adore," composed by Samuel C. 
 Upham, Esq., a " 49er," and read by Mr. J. Beeey. 
 
 A Few Remarks by Pkentice Mulfoed, Esq., on " The 
 Old Guard Pioneers of the Diggings." 
 
 Song, " Y" Ancient Yuba Miner of the Days of '49," com- 
 posed, expressly for the occasion, by Mr. S. C. Upham, and 
 sung by Wm. J. Hill, Esq. 
 
 "Reminiscences of the Drama of '49," by Mr. J. J. 
 McCloskey, a Pioneer Actor. 
 
 Singing, by a Celebrated Quartette Club. 
 
 Popular Selections by the Orchestra. 
 
 General H. G. Gibson, the senior Vice-President, de- 
 livered the address of welcome to his associates and guests 
 in the following eloquent language: 
 
 Fellow-Califoenians : — I bid you welcome again to- 
 night on this anniversary of one of the most eventful discov- 
 eries — alike advantageous and adventitious — in the history of 
 a nation ; an occurrence fraught with blessings and benefits 
 to our whole country, and most prolific in its results and 
 effects ; for " Eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither have 
 entered into the heart of man, the things which God hath 
 prepared for them," in the inconceivable riches of the re- 
 
4G2 GENERAL GIBSON 'S ADDRESS. 
 
 sources whicli that discovery developed. Thirty years ago, on 
 the patriarchal demesne of a Swiss emigri, whose name has 
 since become world-famous, a little speck of shining metal was 
 found, and, like " a great matter a little fire kindleth," a 
 stream of gold and silver began thenceforth to enrich the 
 earth ; succeeded by other wonders, scarcely less marvelous 
 than those with which the fair Scheherezade beguiled her 
 liege lord in the famed Arabian Nights. In the retrospect 
 which each of us may take to-night, we behold a region superb 
 in its physical features and attractions ; delectable in its genial 
 climate, and where 
 
 " with lavish kindness 
 
 The gifts of God are strewn'' 
 
 in broadcast profusion and ubiquitous richness, needing only 
 the touch of an energetic race of men to " pluck the ripe fruit 
 and gather in the hollow of the hand." Broad plains stretch- 
 ing " many, many a league onward," the wealth of whose vir- 
 gin soil was betokened by "the blackness of darkness" of 
 purest loam ; watered by noble rivers to which golden streams, 
 mountain torrent and gentle rivulet paid tribute ; picturesque 
 valleys with graceful oaks in orchard regularity, and vast 
 fields of indigenous grain — in winter of brightest green, in 
 summer of dazzling gold : all hemmed in by mountain walls, 
 whereon the lofty giants of the wood stood enthroned in ma- 
 jesty and beauty. Along the coast, amid charming pastoral 
 scenes and surroundings, the humble padres of the missions of 
 the grand old church of God taught to the Indian and his 
 dusky mate the faith of Christianity, and the rudest arts of 
 civilized life. Cattle stood upon a thousand hills, and the 
 noble horse, in all the peerless beauty and strength of un- 
 restrained freedom, pawed the earth over leagues and leagues 
 of golden pasture. Peace and plenteousness were in the 
 homely adobe abodes of the occupants of the soil, and undis- 
 turbed by the unknown pleasures and splendors of a higher 
 civilization, a pastoral race, with their flocks and herds, en- 
 joyed a life of calm repose and happy contentment : 
 
GENEEAL GIBSOn's ADDEESS. 463 
 
 " Along the cool sequestered vale of life, 
 
 They kept the noiseless tenor of their way." 
 
 On slope and plain, the grape clusters, brilliant in bloom and 
 luscious in flavor, gladdened the heart of man and filled the 
 air with fragrance ; the olive, in " its glossy bower of coolest 
 foliage," mellowed its grateful fruit, beneath the bright sunlit 
 or soft cloud-dimmed sky ; and flowers, too, of exquisite hues 
 and manifold variety, 
 
 " Everywhere about us are they glowing, 
 Some, like stars, to tell us spring is born ; 
 Others, their blue eyes with tears are flowing, 
 Stand, like Euth, amid the golden corn." 
 
 The antelope, the deer and the elk browsed upon the luxuriant 
 herbage of forest and field ; the grizzly, the lion and the coyote 
 roamed through brake, and jungle, and chaparral; and the 
 hunter, the trapper and the aborigine found their Elysium in 
 its secluded wilds. 
 
 With the war with Mexico, and the alluring discovery 
 which made us Pioneers and Pilgrims of the Golden Land, a 
 wonderful, material change was inaugurated ; a revolution 
 wrought in the character, habits and pursuits of the gentes of 
 the Californias, whether " native and to the manor bom,'' or los 
 gringos from other climes. " People of every nation, kindred 
 and tongue " flocked to the golden shores, and the serene peace 
 and pastoral beauty of the land was transformed to a scene of 
 bustle, excitement, active life and industry. To the wondering 
 eyes of the eager throngs, that gathered in her generous placers, 
 California, her ample stores, 
 
 "Eich with the spoils of Time, did there unroll;" 
 
 and the voice of the miner, as he smote the earth and rock 
 with pick and drill, was heard in the land : " Eureka, aye, 
 gold ! glittering gold !" Beneath genial skies, and with light- 
 some toil, on the fallow of ages, 
 
 " Hillside, ravine and tuU marsh 
 Soon blossomed as the rose," 
 
464 LETTEES OP EEGEET. 
 
 and the husbandmen, oft " reaping 'where they had not sown," 
 in the assurance of a rich harvest, 
 
 " How jocund did they drive their team afield ! 
 
 How bowed the woods beneath their sturdy stroke !" 
 
 The scant coffers of the world soon shone with the splendor 
 and abundance of the precious ore from California's grand 
 treasure-house; and out of her horn of plenty she yet pours 
 her measures of corn, and wine, and oil, of wool and flax, of 
 rarest gems and richest metals, without stint, without abate- 
 ment. But, to rehearse the grand progress of our country, due 
 directly or indirectly to the effect of the golden discovery, to 
 rejoice over which I welcome you here to-night, and greet you 
 in the olden California spirit, time will not allow. Suffice it 
 to say, that the results of the influence of the riches of her 
 bounty are to be seen, in the wonderful impetus given to every 
 industry ; in the solid and brilliant achievements or flner pro- 
 ducts of plough, anvil and loom, of forest and mine ; in the 
 iron bands of commerce, binding the continent together ; in the 
 marvelous feat of the modern Ajax, defying and controlling 
 the lightning, and saying, like Puck, " I'll put a girdle round 
 about the earth in forty minutes ;" in " cities proud, with 
 spires and turrets crowned," rising in the wilderness as if by 
 magic ; in States, " clothed and in their right minds,'' coming 
 forth out of the gloom of mountain and desert with " glad re- 
 joicings and grateful praise" — "and all men did marvel!" 
 For, with " the victories of Peace no less renowned than War," 
 the genius of California has added a brighter lustre to the 
 resplendent arms of the Republic ; with new jewels set in its 
 proud diadem, new stars in the brilliant firmament of its 
 Union ; in the radiant folds of " its glorious ensign, as it floats 
 over the sea and over the land." [Great applause.] 
 
 At the conclusion of General Gibson's address, the Secre- 
 tary, Mr. Francis D. Clark, arose and announced the receipt 
 of letters of regret from General William T. Sherman, U. 
 S. A., General Joe Hooker, U. S. A., General Francis J. 
 Lippitt, General Joseph M. Eevere, Bayard Taylor, Mark 
 
"the land we adoke." 465 
 
 Twain, ex-Governor Pacheco, Senator A. A. Sargent and 
 Hon. Peter Dean, President of tlie " Society of California 
 Pioneers," at San Francisco. The Secretary also an- 
 nounced that associates Hon. J. Sherwood, J. J. Hager 
 and E. C. Kemble, were prevented from being present in 
 consequence of recent family afflictions. 
 
 The President then called upon Mr. J. Berry, the elocu- 
 tionist, who responded to the call and recited, with feeling 
 and emphasis, the poem written by Mr. Samuel C. Upham, 
 entitled, "The Land We Adoee." This recitation 
 elicited rounds of applause, and cries of " Upham I Up- 
 ham !" brought that gentleman to his feet, who, in a few 
 appropriate words, thanked his associates for their approval 
 of his humble efforts to do justice to California. He said 
 he had been so ably represented by proxy, that he feared 
 anything he might say would fall upon their ears as " stale, 
 flat and unprofitable." Nevertheless, if the poem, so elo- 
 quently recited by Mr. Berry, had in any way added to 
 their enjoyment he should consider himself amply repaid 
 for the time spent upon its composition. 
 
 The next gentleman called upon was Mr. Prentice Mul- 
 ford, the California humorist, who spoke as follows about 
 the " Old Guard Pioneers of the Diggings :" 
 
 Me. President : — An idea largely prevails among the gen- 
 eration born since the American occupation of California, that 
 the pioneer element of the State was in character rude and 
 uncultured. It is an idea which has been largely owing to the 
 delineations of character given in California literature, so that 
 the Eastern public will accept none other representative for 
 the Pioneer, save the man in overalls and red shirt, knife and 
 pistol at the belt, who uttered an oath at every other word and 
 whose regular beverage was whisky. Yet this type was the 
 exception in 1849. The element which rushed into the Terri- 
 tory on the announcement of the discovery of gold, embraced 
 the pick of the energy, enterprise, education and refinement, 
 not only of the Eastern States, but of Europe. It brought ' 
 
466 ADDRESS OF PRENTICE MULFOED. 
 
 ■with it the eloquence of a Baker ; it called at an early period 
 for the brilliancy of a Starr King. Grant was a pioneer, 
 Sherman was a pioneer, and it is not impossible but that the 
 peculiar conditions of their California experience had much to 
 do in developing the tenacity and firmness of the one, and that 
 conciseness and directness of aim and action, the distinguish- 
 ing characteristic of the other. Out of this pioneer element 
 grew a new school of literature, the chief exponents of which 
 are a PhcBnix, a Bret Harte, a Mark Twain, a Joaquin Miller 
 [and a Prentice Mulford]. And its energy and enterprise, 
 starting from a small inland city as a base, sent a thousand miles 
 of railroad over waste, mountain and desert, then as danger- 
 ous and quite as unknown as the interior of Africa. 
 
 I desire, however, to say a word in remembrance of another 
 and less known class of pioneers. I mean the men who went 
 to California in '49, who never came back, who never made 
 their fortunes, or who, if they did make them never kept them, 
 and who never will come back. I mean the Old Guard of 
 Pioneers still left in the " Diggin's." Travel through the 
 mines to-day and you will find it a country full of deserted 
 villages. Even the mountain roads and trails over which they 
 once packed their pork and flour, tobacco and whisky, from 
 store to camp, are now fading out and overgrown with chap- 
 arral. Even the deer and grizzly have in places resumed 
 their old haunts from which they were driven by the gold- 
 seekers' invasion. Travel along those rivers, now deserted, and 
 you will come here and there on lone, blackened chimneys — 
 all that remains of the pioneer's cabin : those chimneys about 
 which the "boys," full then of life, hope and energy, would 
 cluster in the rainy winter evenings and talk of their far-away 
 Eastern homes. But their fires were long since burned to 
 ashes, and the brilliant anticipations of that time are ashes 
 also. It is in some nook of the foot-hills, perhaps the only 
 cabin and the last man in the camp, that you find the pioneer 
 to-day. His coffee-mill is still nailed to the trunk of the over- 
 shadowing tree by his door; his clothes-line is still stretched, 
 and on it fiutters his bachelor's washing ; his little garden-patch 
 is fenced with old sluice lumber ; he keeps a cat, a dog ; he 
 
THE OLD GTJAKD. 467 
 
 sits at evening in his cabin-door, old, gray, grizzled, smoking 
 his pipe and thinking of home— the home of thirty years ago, 
 peopled in memory with faces fresh and blooming, now with- 
 ered and wrinkled or long since laid in the dust. 
 
 These were the men who cooked their own meals, washed 
 their own shirts and mended their own pants — with flour-sacks, 
 the brand on the outside, so that often on passing the honest 
 miner, did you turn your head, you might see prominently 
 graven upon him the words : " Warranted 200 pounds Self- 
 rising Genesee Flour." Such men as Justice Barry, the first 
 Alcalde of Sonora, Tuolumne County, who, when once on the 
 bench, was reproached by Lawyer Quint with the charge that 
 he (Lawyer Q.) never could get justice in his (Judge Barry's) 
 court, was told by Judge Barry that he (Barry) never intended 
 that Lawyer Quint should get justice in his court. And my 
 friend Shanks, of B.ed Mountain, still alive, not thoroughly 
 sober since 1852, and never attired otherwise than in a gray 
 shirt and duck pants, rope-yarned about the waist, who, when 
 one evening at the bar-stove the conversation had taken a 
 theological turn, assured his hearers that the New Testament 
 seemed clear enough until he reached the book of Eevelatious. 
 " John Second," he remarked, " had snakes when he wrote 
 that book. And as for the beast of ten horns — can't scare me 
 with that ; been on the most familiar terms with him for the 
 last ten years." 
 
 I don't claim for my Argonauts and the Old Pioneer Guard 
 lingering in the foot-hUls, that they came to California insti- 
 gated by high and holy motives. They came to get gold, to 
 get all they could, to get it as quickly as they could, and to get 
 away with it as quickly as possible. But thirty years have 
 passed away. Still they linger. Their friends and relatives 
 in their native Eastern towns have quite forgotten them. The 
 friends of former and more stirring days in California have 
 departed. They have contracted none of those softer ties which 
 make life happier. They are indeed alone. The country has, 
 as it were, slipped away from beneath them. 
 
 A few years ago I made a pilgrimage to the old familiar 
 ground on the Tuolumne. I found living between Jackson- 
 
468 "all honor to the miner." 
 
 ville and Don Pedro's Bar, a stretch of 10 or 12 miles, about 
 six white men. I found at Hawkin's Bar, once numbering 
 near a thousand voters, one solitary miner still delving away 
 at the same bank he worked in '50, and this man — the last 
 
 man of the camp — his name was Smith ! The camp had 
 
 dwindled from hundreds of houses and cabins to fifty ; from 
 fifty to ten, and then the river had rolled down a tremendous 
 freshet, covering half the bar with a deposit of alluvium three 
 feet in depth ; on this the quickly-springing vegetation had 
 taken root, and the camp site was a jungle of chaparral. 
 Forty yards behind the last pioneer's cabin was a little in- 
 closure — the camp graveyard. The fence was tumbling down. 
 The wooden head-boards lying prone to earth, the inscriptions 
 placed thereon by kindly yet stranger's hands quite erased by 
 time and the weather. One familiar sound was still heard — 
 the roar of the Tuolumne over rapid and rifile below, roaring 
 as it roared in the ears of those sleeping here when, for the first 
 time from the summit of yon high red hill, blanket and pick 
 on their shoulders, they caught their first glimpse of the long, 
 winding, sun-glittering line of the river at their feet, while a 
 thousand busy, excited men toiled along the banks, and the 
 rattle of the gravel shaken in hundreds of rocker sieves sounded 
 like the crash and din of a cotton-mill. 
 
 So it roared and murmured and seemed ever in their ears 
 babbling some weird, monotonous story, as they lay sick and 
 dying in their rude miner's bunks — still on and on it roars, 
 babbles and sings an eternal requiem for the forgotten, name- 
 less pioneers who sleep here, while still in some far-away home, 
 wife, mother, sister, brother, friend, wait and weep and long 
 for him in vain. 
 
 At the conclusion of Mr. Mulford's address, which was 
 greeted with rounds of applause, the quartette sang " All 
 Honor to the Miner." General Gibson said that they had 
 with them a distinguished citizen of Brooklyn, who had 
 been elected and re-elected to the Supreme Bench by the 
 unanimous vote of the people He had known Judge 
 Pratt in the field, and he was a distinguished soldier, 
 
JUDGE peatt's speech. 469 
 
 lawyer and jurist. It gave him great pleasure to intro- 
 duce him. [Applause.] 
 
 Judge Pratt, when the applause had subsided, spoke as 
 follows : 
 
 I assure you that I had not the least idea that I should be 
 called upon to make a speech, and I now feel very much as 
 that young man in Brooklyn felt when he was informed that he 
 would have to ride to the funeral of his mother-in-law in the 
 same carriage with his wife. He rephed : " I suppose I will 
 have to do it, but it robs this occasion of all pleasure for me." 
 [Laughter.] I can recollect the day when, if a California 
 judge went to England, and was introduced to a gentleman, 
 the latter always responded : " How do you do, Mr. Lynch?" 
 [Applause and laughter.] Now, of course, it is not expected, 
 that upon such a sudden call as this, I should be able to say much 
 in favor of Brooklyn. Still, I can assure you that it is a city 
 of some importance. We have the greatest park, the greatest 
 bridge, we have had the greatest fire and the longest trial, at 
 which my friend, Judge Neilson, presided. I presume he has 
 left us for fear that he would be called upon to describe that, 
 trial. There is another thing about Brooklyn that will, no 
 doubt, please a great many gentlemen here. In a large por- 
 tion of it, the Heights — the best portion of it in my estimation 
 — ^they have abolished hell. There is another thing about 
 Brooklyn, and some gentlemen here may vouch for what I say, 
 it is a place where there is more virtue and more honest office- 
 holders than any other place in the world. [Laughter.] In 
 proof of that, I refer to my friend, Mr. Strong. Now, gentle- 
 men, permit me to say something about California. It was not 
 my pleasure to go to that country. I was not blessed with a 
 sight of it, but I regard the settlement of it, in its influence upon 
 this country, in regard to the enterprise, hospitality and honesty 
 of its people, of the greatest importance and benefit. It was a 
 place where people could go to sleep at night and never fasten 
 their doors, and where, if a stranger arrived at night the doors 
 were thrown open to him and the best the house afibrded set 
 27 
 
470 THE "king's okphans." 
 
 before him. That, it strikes me, was one of the greatest coun- 
 tries under the sun. [Applause.] 
 
 Colonel T. B. Thorpe, a veteran of the Mexican war, 
 and formerly on the staff of General Zachary Taylor, was 
 introduced by the President and received with tumultuous 
 applause. Colonel Thorpe stated that while employed as a 
 journalist in New Orleans, several years before the discov- 
 ery of gold at Sutter's Mill, a Swede, evidently far gone in 
 consumption, called on him, representing that he was, in his 
 own country, one of the "King's Orphans;"* that is, he 
 had been educated at- a government institution, one of the 
 requirements of which was, that the pupil, after receiving 
 a certain amount of schooling, should travel in foreign 
 lands, record all he saw, put it in his manuscript, and on 
 his return deposit it in the archives of the institution. In 
 pursuance of this regulation, the Swede had visited Califor- 
 nia while under Mexican rule. He remained for several 
 days at Sutter's Fort, enjoying the well-known hospitality 
 of General Sutter. While there he had made a close ex- 
 amination of the surrounding country, the result of which 
 was a conviction on his part that it abounded richly in 
 gold. This opinion he had delivered in writing to Colonel 
 Thorpe, who still retained the manuscript, and avowed his 
 intention of depositing it in the archives of " The Asso- 
 ciated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California." 
 
 Before concluding his remarks. Colonel Thorpe called 
 upon General Sutter to ascertain whether any memory of 
 the Swede's visit remained with him. 
 
 General Sutter arose and said he did recollect the visit of 
 the Swede, which occurred about thirty-four years ago; 
 that he remembered, on his part, the expression of such 
 opinion regarding the presence of mineral wealth in the 
 neighboring hills. " But," added the venerable pioneer, " I 
 
 * See page 537. 
 
COLONEL BUETOK SPEAKS A PIECE. 471 
 
 was too much occupied at the time with other concerns to 
 devote any time or attention to it. My crops were ripe, 
 and it was imperative that they should be gathered as 
 quickly as possible. But I do recollect the scientific Swedish 
 gentleman." 
 
 Colonel Thorpe also referred to the acquisition of Cali- 
 fornia, its wonderful people, and its rapid march to great- 
 ness. Eloquently he pictured some of the scenes of early 
 days, and addressing General Sutter, paid him a most 
 glowing tribute as a patriot, pioneer and philanthropist, 
 whose name would live in history and be crowned with 
 honors, not won on the battle-field, in the forum, or in 
 political life, but as a benefactor aud friend to humanity. 
 
 Colonel Edward F. Burton, " The man of '49," who is 
 well-known in California, was brought to his feet by the 
 unanimous call of the assembly, and proceeded to make a 
 few "humble remai'ks." He narrated his experience as an 
 honest miner, a period when true happiness was to be found ; 
 when there were no rent or wash-bills to pay, no tax col- 
 lectors to fret one's soul and eat up a man's substance; 
 when there were no vile dyspeptic cooks, but every one 
 prepared his morning and evening meal to suit his own 
 taste. His speech recalled the individual experiences of 
 many present, and was in a continuous current of humor 
 that kept the assemblage in a roar. 
 
 In honor of a number of ladies who had been invited 
 into the hall to hear the singing and speaking, the quar- 
 tette sang the "Toast to the Ladies." General Gibson 
 called upon Mr. Clark Bell, a distinguished lawyer of New 
 York, to respond in their behalf, which duty he performed 
 in his usual eloquent and pleasing manner, paying a most 
 fitting tribute to the fair sex. 
 
 Mr. J. J. McCloskey, the California pioneer actor, next 
 gave some interesting reminiscences of the drama in 1849. 
 He said the time was too short to relate all of his experiences. 
 It would take two or three weeks to do it. The traveler 
 
472 MRS. BINGHAM AND HER TWINS. 
 
 from the East in visiting California is struck with the mag- 
 nificence of the theatres. They have the finest appoint- 
 ments of any in the world. Brothers of the buskin in the 
 Golden City now have their yachts, their base ball clubs, 
 stop at the hotels, and wear purple and fine linen. It was 
 not so in the days of '49. At that time, when traveling, 
 they trusted to the back of la mula or walked. They had 
 no scenery but that which was made by the local sign 
 painter, who generally gave nothing but a daub of yellow 
 sky. They had to fight against both fire and water, and 
 move continually from camp to camp, following the miners 
 wherever they went. Sometimes they gave a performance 
 in the dining-hall of a hotel, and admitted the miners at |5 
 a head. 
 
 Mr. McCloskey next referred to Mrs. Lizzie Bingham, 
 the pioneer actress of California, the first white woman who 
 ever crossed the plains to that State. He spoke of her as 
 a most remarkable woman, and described her entry into 
 Downieville with her twin babies, in laughable terms. He 
 also described the death of Mrs. Bingham in a battle at 
 Nicaragua, and closed with a brilliant tribute to her 
 memory. 
 
 Colonel Joe Lawrence, an old '49er and veteran news- 
 paper editor, upon being called upon, arose and favored the 
 company with a speech in a most humorous strain. He 
 singled out of the guests prominent men of the early days, 
 and related in an inimitable manner incidents connected 
 with their early California life. He said he only intended 
 to give their good points, and they need not tremble for fear 
 of any revelations that might sound harsh. As the Colonel 
 proceeded, he fairly warmed in his wit, and only that the 
 orchestra broke in with some popular selection, he might 
 have continued two or three hours longer. Of course, the 
 President censured the leader of the orchestra for the inter- 
 ruption ; but too late, the Colonel had resumed his seat. 
 
 Secretary Clark arose and said he had intended to have 
 
SECEETAEY CLARk'S SPEECH. 473 
 
 made some remarks appropriate to the occasion, but that 
 previous speakers having taken the "wind out of his sails," 
 he would confine his remarks to one subject, and that was 
 the claim of our venerated chieftain and associate, General 
 Sutter, against the government for property of which he 
 was unjustly deprived many years ago. Secretary Clark 
 urged upon each individual member of the Society, and all 
 other Californians, the duty that was imposed upon them to 
 use all their personal influence, by all honorable means, to 
 induce Congress to repay the old pioneer, and thus contri- 
 bute to his comfort and smooth the pathway of his declining 
 years. Mr. Clark's remarks were received at their close 
 with three hearty cheers and a tiger for General Sutter. 
 
 Mr. Joseph S. Spinney delivered a very feeling and elo- 
 quent eulogy upon the late Henry Meiggs, of- Peru. He 
 believed if any man had ever repented of an error and 
 tried in all possible ways to show his repentance by acts of 
 charity and restoration, that man was Harry Meiggs, and 
 he firmly believed he had gone to rest with the Saviour of 
 all mankind in the realms above ; and, in the words of 
 Holy Writ, he would exclaim, " Let him that hath no sin 
 cast the first stone." We must all remember that " to err 
 is human, to forgive divine." 
 
 The President referred to the death of Colonel John A. 
 Godfrey, late a member of the Society, and called on Gen- 
 eral Thomas D. Johns for a few words of tribute to his 
 memory, to which the General responded as follows : 
 
 Me. President :— This would be a cold world, indeed, did 
 we not sometimes recall the memories of departed friends ; and 
 this Society would not be true to one of its professed objects, 
 did it fail to honor, in some befitting manner, the names of 
 those associates who have been taken from us. During the 
 early eventful years of California, we made the pilgrimage to- 
 gether, each in his allotted sphere. The varied experiences 
 we have undergone, the excitements and dangers with which 
 
474 THE LATE JOHN A. GODFREY. 
 
 we have been surrounded, the trials and vicissitudes incident 
 to tliat exceptional pioneer life, the almost magical changes of 
 situation and of fortune, all tend to create a bond of union 
 among us, and a sympathy which, perhaps, none but the early 
 Californians comprehend and appreciate. I know, Mr. Presi- 
 dent, that I express not ouly the sentiments of the individual 
 members of this Society, but those of the Californians present 
 with us this evening, in thanking you for your eloquent, ap- 
 propriate and touching remarks in announcing, in your Annual 
 Eeport, the death of our late associate, Colonel John A. God- 
 frey. He was one of our most active and enthusiastic mem- 
 bers, and took great pride in the welfare and success of our 
 Society. One year ago, this evening, he occupied his accus- 
 tomed place at the farther end of this table, in the flush of 
 manhood, and leading in our festivities ; his voice is hushed, 
 that chair is vacant now and bears the emblems of mourning. 
 We have no eulogy to pronounce here ; but when we are 
 called to follow him, may each of us have fraternal and 
 friendly voices to speak of us as we now say of him, " gone 
 but not forgotten." 
 
 During the evening, the quartette sang Mr. S. C. Up- 
 ham's " Song of the Argonauts ; or, the Days of '49," the 
 entire company joining in the chorus. Mr. William J. 
 Hill sang the following serio-comic song, written by Mr. 
 Samuel C. Upham, expressly for the occasion : 
 
 Y" ANCIENT YUBA MINER, OF THE DAYS OP '49. 
 
 Air: — "Fine Old English Gentleman^" 
 I. 
 
 To you I'll sing a good old song, made by a Quaker pate, 
 
 Of an ancient Yuba miner, who owned no real estate. 
 
 But who when asked where he belonged, this son of Uncle 
 
 Sam, 
 He scratched his head a moment, then in accents clear and 
 
 shrill, straightway ejaculated "Yuia Dam!" 
 Did this ancient Yuba Miner, of the days of '49. 
 
T= ANCIENT YUBA MINER, OP THE DAYS OF ' 
 
 (475) 
 
476 
 
 YE ANCIENT YUBA MINER. 
 
 II. 
 I'm told that simple was his food, he used no forks nor spoons, 
 And with old flour and coffee-sacks he patched his trouser- 
 
 loons ; 
 He was saucy, lousy, ragged, lank, but happy as a clain, 
 And when interrogated in relation to the location from whence 
 
 he hailed, he invariably replied, " Yuba Dam!" 
 Did this grizzled Yuba miner, of the days of '49. 
 
 III. 
 
 On a prospecting tour one day, he struck it very rich, 
 'Twas on a little mountain stream, forninst the Yuba ditch ; 
 Said he, " this claim of mine I'll sell, my purse the dust will 
 
 cram," 
 But when questioned in relation to his antecedents, and from 
 
 whence he came, he articulated, " Yuba Dam !" 
 Did this lucky Yuba miner, of the days of '49. 
 
YE ANCIENT YUBA MINER. 
 
 477 
 
 IV. 
 He started down to 'Frisco town, this man of no estate, 
 On mule back first, by water tben — but never mind tbe date, 
 And on his way they questioned him, this son of Uncle Sam ; 
 They asked him the initials of his front name, the mine from 
 
 whence he came, and then he placed his hand beside his 
 
 mouth and roared out, " Yuba Dam !" 
 Did this jolly Yuba miner, of the days of '49. 
 
 When he arrived in 'Frisco town, the mud was very deep. 
 Said he, " my equilibrium now, I surely mean to keep ;" 
 But then the crowd they jostled him, and finally, in a jam, 
 He was pitched headlong into the mud, and when fished out 
 and asked where he belonged, he sputtered, " Yuba Dam !" 
 Did this wilted Yuba miner, of the days of '49. 
 
478 
 
 Y^i ANCIENT YXJBA MINEK. 
 
 VI. 
 
 Into the " El Dorado " then, he went to try his luck, 
 Said he, " I'll show those gambbliers a little Yuba pluck, 
 I'll bust their cussed monte bank, for I am nary sham,'' 
 But he soon emerged a wiser but a badly busted individual, 
 and to every question asked him, he replied, " Yuba Dam !" 
 Did this busted Yuba miner, of the days of '49. 
 
 I'ii. 
 
 VII. 
 
 Soon on a stretcher he was laid, with his head all cav6d in. 
 
 For the way that they had walloped him, was a shame and 
 awful sin ; 
 
 All mashed and shattered was his head, as if butted by a ram ; 
 
 The doctor felt his corpus, the parson sung a psalm, and when 
 they asked him from whence he came, he faintly whis- 
 pered, " Yuba Dam !" 
 
 Did this dying Yuba miner, of the days of '49. 
 
HON. DEMAS STEONG's SPEECH. 
 
 479 
 
 VIII. 
 The coroner soon an inquest held, and then at his command, 
 They shoved old Yuba in a box, and dumped him in the sand, 
 At midnight hour they buried him, without show, or pomp, or 
 
 flam. 
 And when at the last day Gabriel's trump shall sound, among 
 
 the early risers, you bet, will be old " Yuba Bam !" 
 That defunct and ancient miner, of the days of '49. 
 
 The President called upon Hon. Demas Strong, ex- 
 Supervisor of Brooklyn, President of the first City Coun- 
 cil of Sacramento City, and acting Mayor of that city after 
 the death of Mayor Bigelow, in the fall of 1850, for a speech. 
 That gentleman acquiescing, stated that, as it was past 
 midnight, and rather late for speech-making, he would 
 make his remarks brief. He described his voyage from 
 Panama to San Francisco in the first ship that left the 
 latter harbor after the discovery of gold. The crews of all 
 previous vessels invariably ran off to the gold-diggings. 
 The speeches of the evening had recalled memories to his 
 mind which would go down with him to the grave, but he 
 would refrain from putting them into words, as he merely 
 wished to ask those present to put the sentiments expressed 
 into practical form, and use every effort to enroll as mem- 
 bers of this Society all the California pioneers throughout 
 the country, so that the Association should number thou- 
 
480 DISTINGUISHED GUESTS. 
 
 sands instead of hundreds, and should become the chief 
 bond of union among those who had settled California. 
 
 Among the notable gentlemen present, were ex-Mayor 
 Vance, of New York ; Donald McClellan, Esq., President 
 of Pacific Woollen Mills, San Francisco ; J. W. Simonton, 
 Esq., Associated Press; Clark Bell, Esq. ; Mr. B. C. 
 Watson, President Grocer^ Bank, a '49er ; James E. 
 Curtis, ex-Chief of Police of San Francisco; John McCul- 
 lough, the Tragedian; Colonel Joe Lawrence and S. C. 
 Upham, Pioneer Newspaper Men of Sacramento City; 
 Prentice Mulford, the California Humorist; J. J. Mc- 
 Closkey and Clay Greene, Playwrights; Colonel T. B. 
 Thorpe ; and from Brooklyn were Hon. Calvin E. Pratt, 
 Justice of the Supreme Court; Hon. Joseph Neilson and 
 George G. Reynolds, Judges of the City Court; Hon. 
 Demas Strong, ex-Supervisor ; Mr. Maxwell, of the Brook- 
 lyn Daily Times; Mr. J. E. Edey, Mr. W. J. Hill, W. C. 
 Bryant and James A. Sperry. 
 
 At half-past one o'clock, A. M., the quartette sang the 
 following verses of the "Song of the Argonauts; or, The 
 Days q/''49," the entire audience joining in the chorus: 
 
 Fresh laurel-wreaths we bring to-day, 
 
 To crown the Patriarch, 
 Whose hand unlocked the golden ore, 
 
 In gulch and canon dark. 
 Old Pioneer ! thy name we still 
 
 In all our hearts enshrine; 
 God's blessing rest upon thy head, 
 
 Dear friend of old lang syne ! 
 
 Chorus. — Oh, cherished be for evermore 
 The days of auld lang syne. 
 Those golden days — remembered days — 
 The days of 'Forty-nine. 
 
 Hillside, ravine and tuM marsh, 
 Now blossom as the rose, 
 
"home, sweet home." 481 
 
 And 'round Diablo's verdant base 
 
 The crystal streamlet flows. 
 Now glory be to God on high ! 
 
 Let this our psean be — 
 And peace on earth, good-will to man, 
 
 Our prayer, God, to Thee ! 
 
 Chorus. — Oh, cherished be for evermore, etc. 
 
 At the conclusion of the singing, the orchestra struck up 
 " Home, Sweet Home," and the company quietly dispersed, 
 well pleased with the evening's entertainment, and hoping 
 to meet again one year hence. 
 
 On Saturday, the day following the banquet, at the 
 special request of Mr. Sarony, the celebrated photographic 
 artist, of New York, General Sutter, Secretary Clark, 
 General Johns and Mr. Samuel C. Upham visited his 
 gallery and sat for imperial portraits. Mr. Sarony also 
 presented General Sutter with a fine picture of General 
 Albert Pike, of Arkansas, the aged veteran of the Mexican 
 war, and expressed himself much pleased by this visit from 
 so distinguished a personage as General Sutter. 
 
EECEPTIOlSr TO GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT. 
 
 Formal reception by General Fremont — Notables present — Decora- 
 tions of the liall — The banquet — Vice-President Gibson's address 
 of welcome — General Fremont's response — Letters of regret read 
 by the Secretary — Speeches, etc. 
 
 General John C. Feemont, Governor of the Territory 
 of Arizona, being on the eve of departure for his official post 
 on the Pacific coast, was tendered a reception at the Stur- 
 tevant House, New York, on the evening of the 1st of 
 August, 1878, by his friends and compatriots, " The As- 
 sociated Pioneers op the Teeeitorial Days or 
 Calipoenia." 
 
 1843. PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA. 1878. 
 
 General John C. Fremont, 
 
 Governor of Arizona Territory, 
 PREVIOUS TO HIS DEPARTURE FOR THE PACIFIC COAST, 
 
 BY HIS OLD CALIPOESIA FEIEITDS AHD ASSOCIATES, 
 
 Tie Associated Pioneers of tlie Territorial Days of California, 
 
 AT THEIR HEAD-QUARTERS, 
 
 ON THU<RS.1) AY EVENING, AUGUST ut, i8>]8. 
 
 AT 8 O'CLOCK. 
 
 FOR CARDS OF ADMISSION ADDRESS THE SECRETARY. 
 
 FEANCIS D. CLAEK, Secretary, JOHN A. SUTTER, 
 
 16 Cortlandt Street. President. 
 
 (482) 
 
MEMBERS AND GUESTS. 483 
 
 The author is indebted to Secretary Clark for the fol- 
 lowing report : 
 
 From eight to nine o'clock, the General held an infor- 
 mal reception in one of the hotel parlors, after which about 
 one hundred of the Pioneers sat down to an elegant supper. 
 In the absence of the President of the Association, General 
 John A. Sutter, the chair was occupied by General H. G. 
 Gibson, U. S. A., the senior Vice-President. At his right 
 sat the guest of the evening and his two sons, John C. 
 Fremont, Jr., U. S. N., and Francis Preston Fremont. 
 Among the members present were ex-Governor R. M. 
 Price, of New Jersey ; Joseph Evans, Colonel George D. 
 Brewerton, William H. Rogers, Hon. Francis D. Clark, 
 Charles J. McPherson and Colonel Geo. M. Leonard — the 
 last six were members of the historic " Stevenson's Regi- 
 ment;" — Hon. "William Colligan, Deputy Surveyor E. 
 F. Burton, Colonel E. C. Kemble, first editor of the 
 Alia California, in 1846 ; Hon. C. Lydecker, Stephen 
 L. Merchant, son of General C. S. Merchant; James J. 
 McCloskey, the pioneer actor ; Vice-President John Sick- 
 els, E. W. Crowell, Charles W. Schumann and William 
 M. Walton. Among the guests were Colonel T. B. 
 Thorpe, Dr. J. W. Morton, who had just returned from a 
 trip through the Australian Diamond Fields ; General W. 
 L. Tidball, a Mexican war veteran ; Colonel E. R. Good- 
 rich, Judge Curtis, ex-Mayor of San Francisco; Major 
 W. W. Leland, George B. Ammermon and General H. L. 
 Burnett. 
 
 The dining-hall was handsomely decorated with mottoes 
 and emblems appropriate to the occasion. At the head of 
 the hall was an entablature with the following inscription: 
 " Reception to Captain John C. Fremont by Captain John 
 A. Sutter, at Sutter's Fort, California, March 6th, 1844." 
 At the lower end of the hall was a large cuirass bearing 
 the figure of a grizzly bear, with the word "California" 
 above it and "Pioneers" below. The tables were pro- 
 
484 aENEEAL Gibson's address of geeeting. 
 
 fusely decorated with flowers. Before supper the guests 
 arose and sang the long metre doxology — " Praise God from 
 whom all blessings flow." 
 
 After the company had devoted over one hour to the 
 viands set so temptingly before them, washed down with 
 wines of California vintage of the famous house of Lands- 
 burgh & Co., San Francisco, and when cofiee had been 
 handed around, and cigars lighted, General Gibson, the 
 chairman, arose and delivered the following eloquent ad- 
 dress of welcome : 
 
 Felldw-Califoenians : — In the absence of our grand old 
 Patriarch and beloved fellow-Pioneer and President, the duty 
 devolves upon me of welcoming our distinguished guest. I 
 regret that he is not here to-night to express, though only in 
 his tremulous and embarrassed utterances, the same cordial 
 greeting which he gave to his worthy compeer and compadre, 
 on the banks of the Sacramento thirty-four years ago. Though 
 his speech might have been only silver, the Avelcome of his 
 heart would have been golden. 
 
 We have met this evening to do honor to an eminent citizen 
 of the Republic and a renowned pioneer, who, as the great 
 Pathfinder of Empire, first disclosed to the nation a knowledge 
 of the rich and attractive country bordering the Pacific, and 
 whose name will, through all coming time, be identified with 
 the exploration of a continent, and with the American occu- 
 pation and development of the Golden Land. Traversing 
 with his little band the trackless wastes, forbidding mountains 
 and dense forests lying between the mighty Father of Waters 
 and that magnificent region, whose 
 
 " snow-sierras hide 
 
 Huge crystalled rocks of virgin gold. 
 
 Adown abrading torrents rolled. 
 
 In lucid streams, by summer sboaled, 
 
 A golden tide ;" 
 
 the youthful explorer in his first enterprise determined the 
 physical geography of a vast, unknown territory, and con- 
 
GEN. PKEMONT's SEBVICES TO THE NATION. 485 
 
 tributed to science the wealth of his felicitous and valuable 
 discoveries. Wending his way a second time to the then 
 foreign provinces of the Californias, he inspired and aided the 
 raising of the standard of revolt against the rule of the Mexi- 
 can, on the oak-orchard plain of Sonoma, and thus made the 
 initiatory step which led to the acquisition, consummated by 
 the war with Mexico, of that beautiful and opulent domain, 
 and which Feemont and destiny had determined should be 
 ours thenceforth and forever. Discovering, also, in his first 
 expedition, a practicable route by the eastern base of the 
 Sierra Nevada, from the valley of the Sacramento to the grand 
 forest-crowned region "along the lone Columbia," his foot- 
 prints became the unerring guide to all who followed after. 
 For as to the fidelity and accuracy of his descriptions and 
 observations, as he spied out the land, your chairman can tes- 
 tify from personal experience ; that the itinerary of each day's 
 journey, as we pursued the rough tenor of our way through 
 the vast wilderness of lava bed, forest, plain, mountain and 
 canon — through " a land of fracture, violence and fire" — was 
 pictured on the mental vision before as clearly defined as 'the 
 actual vision beheld it thereafter. A portion of the country 
 traversed by Feemont had been imperfectly explored by the 
 previous expeditions of Lewis, Clark and Long, as well as by 
 Bonneville, whose crude narrative, enriched and embellished 
 by the graceful pen of Washington Irving, charmed our child- 
 hood, and yet delights our mature years. These gave, how- 
 ever, but a faint idea of its magnificent character, and it re- 
 mained for Feemont to impart to us a full knowledge of its 
 grand and peculiar features, its wonderful beauties and re- 
 sources. 
 
 For his great and distinguished service to the State, the 
 Government at Washington awarded him promotion in the 
 army, and the new-born Golden State of California a seat in 
 the Senate of the United States. In later years, bearing the 
 standard of a great political party, he with knightly courage, 
 courtesy and modesty, led it nigh unto victory, and opened the 
 path to its subsequent success ; and, at a critical period of its 
 
 fortunes, contributed to its overwhelming triumph and con- 
 
 28 
 
486 HIS HIGHEST EENOWN AS AN EXPLOKEK. 
 
 tinuance of power, by liis graceful and opportune retirement 
 from tlie field as the nominee, a second time, for the Presi- 
 dency, of a great convention of his fellow-citizens. 
 
 In his military career, as an officer of engineers, he displayed 
 rare ability, and remarkable fertility of resources and expedi- 
 ents ; and as a field officer of the line, added to his fame by the 
 joint conquest, with the gallant Stockton, of the territory of the 
 Californias ; and how far the crimes and blunders at Washington 
 afiected his usefulness, success and renown, as a leader and 
 commander of our armies in the late civil war, as of other true 
 and loyal soldiers, who bore the heat and burden of the day, 
 and stood among their fellows high in reputation for wisdom 
 and honor, impartial history must determine.* It suffices us, 
 however, to know that his services came fully up to the official 
 standard of '' gallant, faithful and meritorious." But as an 
 explorer, his name must ever be classed with those noble and 
 illustrious names on that brilliant scroll, which embraces 
 Marco Polo and de Soto, Mungo Park and Livingstone ; with 
 those who "in journeyings often, in perils of waters, in perils 
 of robbers, in perils by the heathen, in perils in the wilderness ; 
 in weariness and painfulness, in watchings often, in hunger and 
 thirst, in fastings often, in cold and nakedness," have exposed 
 or sacrificed their lives in the cause of science and humanity ; 
 and whose marvelous sagacity, indomitable courage, patience 
 and fortitude have reflected glory on our race. 
 
 But the full measure of reward for his brilliant and eminent 
 
 services, whose 
 
 " records half-effaced. 
 Which with the hand of youth he traced 
 On history's page," 
 
 has never been conceded nor bestowed. It is an inherent, and 
 
 * The history of the war of the rebellion — written and unwritten — 
 shows that McClellan, Buell, Fitz-Johu Porter and Stone (an old Cali- 
 fornian) were victims of these crimes and blunders, and that Grant, 
 Sherman (an old Pioneer) and Thomas came near being crushed in the 
 opening of their careers, or at the zenith of their fame, by the ignorance, 
 prejudice and imbecUity at Washington. That the commanders in the 
 valley of the Shenandoah and in front of Washington were likewise 
 sufferers from these acts and influences must be the verdict of the honest 
 and faithful chronicler of the war. 
 
GENERAL FKEMONT'S BEPLY. 487 
 
 perhaps, ineradicable vice of all republics that their great 
 benefactors and heroes are seldom duly honored or rewarded 
 •while living— soon neglected or forgotten when dead ; and our 
 own Eepublic can claim no immunity from the vice. That it 
 may cease to be its reproach and shame should be the fervent 
 prayer of every true patriot ; and that when we have done 
 with honoring with "storied urn and animated bust" the 
 genius and heroism of antiquity and of other lands, we may 
 find time and means to demonstrate to the world, that there 
 are those of our own land who have " won a mural crown of 
 towering glory." May the time yet come when as the golden 
 orb of day sinks to his rest in the bosom of the mighty ocean 
 beyond the portals of the Golden Gate, his parting rays shall 
 shed their golden light on its pinnacles, whereon shall stand 
 the sculptured forms of Fremont and Suttee, with the in- 
 scription on the one, " The path he trod was the Path to Empire;" 
 and on the other, "The golden heart that enriched the Golden 
 Land !" 
 
 General Fremont, you are about to depart for the vicinity of 
 the scenes of your former labors and signal deeds, and we come 
 as fellow-Pioneers and Californians, to offer to you our earnest 
 congratulations and cordial good wishes. May health and 
 happiness attend you, and in your new field of employment, 
 may you ever enjoy the approving smiles and favor of a grate- 
 ful, appreciative people. As your youth was adorned with 
 fame, may your age be crowned with glory and honor. For 
 myself, in the remembrance of a pleasant journey together in 
 years gone by, through the beautiful valley of the San Joaquin, 
 " on fields with daisies pied," and " gorgeous flowerets in the 
 sunlight shining," through arid waste and cooling mountain 
 grove — in the remembrance of a kindness done, but as soon 
 forgotten by you, I tender to you the kindliest greeting and 
 most earnest prayer that heart can feel, or voice or hand ex- 
 press. [Great applause.] 
 
 With evident emotion, General Fremont responded as 
 follows : 
 
 Gentlemen : — You would no doubt think it strange if I did 
 
488 LETTEK FKOM ME. TTPHAM. 
 
 not feel moved by what has been so elegantly said by my friend, 
 who speaks from a kindly remembrance of those events which 
 opened California to us. We have seen what a commotion has 
 been created in England by the annexation of Cyprus to Great 
 Britain. But for the pioneers, California would also be a gem 
 in the diadem of the Queen of England, and it is not to be 
 denied that we dwell with pleasure on the fact. In those times 
 the pioneers placed upon their flag the emblem of the grizzly. 
 But before long this was exchanged for the Stars and Stripes 
 of the United States. It may be remembered that the English 
 Admiral Seymour at this time said that if he had arrived a 
 few days sooner' the flag of England would have floated over 
 California instead of that of the Republic. The warmth of 
 coloring with which General Gibson has painted some of my 
 official acts is the result of the co-operation, the companion- 
 ship and friendly thoughts of the early pioneers of California. 
 The same friendly feeling was exhibited among the pioneers in 
 California in its earliest days. I am profoundly gratified to 
 find that I shall go out to my new field of labor with the recol- 
 lections of what has occurred here to-night. 
 
 The Governor referred to Arizona as offering the most 
 fruitful field we shall have for American enterprise for 
 some time — a Territory that gives grand promises for the 
 future — a sister that we shall feel proud to honor at no 
 future period in the galaxy of sovereign States. Pie gave 
 as a sentiment : " Renewed life to the Society of Pioneers, 
 and prosperity to our brethren wherever they may be 
 found." [Applause and three cheers for General Fre- 
 mont.] 
 
 Secretary Clark read the following letters from members 
 of the Society and invited guests unable to be present : 
 
 Philadelphia, July 30th, 1878. 
 
 Me. Feancis D. Claek, Secretary Associated Pioneers, T. 
 
 D. of California, New York — Dear Sir: — Sickness in my 
 
 family will, I regret to say, prevent me from participating 
 
 with you on Thursday evening next in doing honor to an asso- 
 
LETTER FKOM MK. UPHAM. 489 
 
 ciate and compatriot, the meridian of whose life was devoted 
 to deeds that have rendered his name famous wherever the 
 English language is read or spoken. 
 
 The " Great Golden Medal " for progress in the sciences, 
 sent to him by Baron Humboldt, on behalf of the King of 
 Prussia, his election as an honorary member of the Geographi- 
 cal Society of Berlin, the Founder's Medal, awarded him by 
 the Eoyal Geographical Society, of London, for his pre-emi- 
 nent services in promoting the cause of geographical science, 
 attest the high estimation in which he is held by eminent men 
 of letters and of science in the Old World. His four explor- 
 ing expeditions — the crowning efforts of his life — in the years 
 1842, '43, '45 and '48, the three latter being entirely across 
 that portion of this continent lying between the Father of 
 Waters and the Pacific Ocean, are grander in conception and 
 execution than any similar achievements of the present cen- 
 tury, and have been prolific of results scarcely dreamed of by 
 their projector. 
 
 Westward, Iii:e the Star of Empire, the Pathfinder took his 
 way. His path was neither strewn nor embowered with roses. 
 Over arid plains, alkali deserts, through trackless forests and 
 yawning canons, over the snow-capped Sierras, surrounded by 
 savage hordes, Fremont and his little band of modern Spar- 
 tans solved the great problem of a highway between the 
 Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans ; and to-day, over a part of 
 this route, where lie the bones of many of those brave pioneers, 
 unmarked by mound or head-stone, the iron horse, with sinews 
 and nerves of steel and breath of steam, flies over the metallic 
 track so swiftly that space seems to be almost annihilated. 
 
 One of those brave Pathfinders, Charles Taplin, was my 
 fellow-townsman. When he left the old homestead, nestling 
 at the base of the Green Mountains, he was a wild, rollicking 
 youth, but when he returned home a few years later he was re- 
 markably tame and docile ; a striking exemplification of the 
 old adage that hunger and mule-steak will tame a crow. 
 
 General Fremont's identification with the early history of 
 California, having been elected Governor of that Territory by 
 the American settlers on July 4th, 1846, and his appointment 
 
490 LETTER FE.OM GENERAL SHERMAN. 
 
 the same year by Commodore Stockton as military command- 
 ant and civil Governor of that Territory, and his election by 
 the Legislature of California, in December, 1849, as one of 
 the two Senators to represent the new State in the Senate of 
 the United States, render it meet and proper that we, his 
 associates and compatriots, should congratulate him on his re- 
 cent appointment as Governor of Arizona, the scene of a part 
 of his early explorations. 
 
 His title to this office is not based upon mere political ser- 
 vice, and the fact of his not being a " bloated bondholder," 
 serves to show that he did not, while in office, prostitute his 
 position to the purposes of private gain, and it must be grati- 
 fying to the recipient to know that this somewhat tardy recog- 
 nition by the government he has served so well meets with 
 the general approval of the whole country. 
 
 In conclusion, I proffer the following sentiment, which I 
 am quite sure my associates will heartily indorse: May the 
 remaining days of our honored guest be as peaceful and tran- 
 quil as his former have been active and illustrious. 
 
 Fraternally, 
 
 Samuel C. Upham. 
 
 "Washington, D. C, July 30th, 1878. 
 
 Francis D. Claek, Secretary California Pioneers — My 
 Dear Sir : — I thank you for remembering me in connection 
 with the public reception tendered to General John C. 
 Fremont, on the 1st of August, at the Sturtevant House, on 
 the eve of his departure for his post of duty as Governor of 
 Arizona. 
 
 It would afford me very great pleasure to form one of your 
 guests on so pleasant an occasion, for General Fremont's name 
 and fame are inseparably connected with the early days of 
 California, the charm of which forms the bond of union to the 
 Society of Pioneers, with its numerous branches all over the 
 country. 
 
 As you foresaw, it will be impossible for me to come to New 
 York on the 1st prox. ; but I beg you to assure your guest of 
 what he already knows, that he and his may always command 
 
OTHEB LETTERS OF EEGKET. 491 
 
 my office in any courtesy or assistance whicli will add honor to 
 his name or give him personal pleasure. 
 
 With great respect, your friend, 
 
 "W. T. Sheeman, General. 
 
 The reading of the above letters was interrupted by 
 shouts of applause and clapping of hands. The General 
 arose and made a special acknowledgment to the writers 
 of these two generous and warm-hearted letters. 
 
 Extract from a letter received from Mr. John Dolman, 
 of Philadelphia, one of the men of Commodore Stockton's 
 and General Fremont's command, in 1846, now a promi- 
 nent lawyer of that city : 
 
 I am unfortunately unable to be with you to-morrow even- 
 ing, at the Fremont reception. I had fully intended to be 
 present, but an argument fixed for three o'clock, P. M., to- 
 morrow, before a Master in Equity, will detain me beyond the 
 hour at which I could take the train for New York, and I 
 could not arrange for a postponement of the argument. 
 
 General John A. Sutter, President of the Society, writing 
 from his home at Lititz, Pa., said : 
 
 I think it is all right that our Society has tendered a recep- 
 tion to General Fremont, and greatly regret that a recent at- 
 tack of rheumatism will keep me away. 
 
 Captain D. S. Babcock, President . of the Pacific Mail 
 Steamship Company, wrote : 
 
 I regret exceedingly that circumstances will prevent my at- 
 tendance at the dinner to General John C. Fremont, to-morrow 
 evening. 
 
 From Joseph Evans, Esq., of Newark, N. J., a former 
 member of Stevenson's regiment : 
 
 Circumstances may prevent my attending the dinner to 
 General John C. Fremont. It would afford me great pleasure 
 to assist in doing honor to the great Pathfinder, who is so pre- 
 eminently a Pioneer of California. 
 
492 GOVEKNOK PKICE's SPEECH. 
 
 Thomas L. James, Esq., Postmaster of New York, re- 
 plied as follows : 
 
 I thank you very cordially for your kindness in inviting me 
 to the reception to General John C. Fremont by your Society, 
 and unless prevented by some unforeseen official engagement, 
 shall do myself the honor of being present. 
 
 Messrs. William E,. Garrison, George Howes, John S. 
 Ellis, Hon. Demas Strong, Hon. Jeremiah Sherwood, 
 General James F. Curtis and several other members of the 
 Society, sent their regrets, stating that absence from the city 
 with their families would prevent their attendance upon so 
 enjoyable an occasion. 
 
 At the conclusion of the reading of letters, the Chairman 
 called upon ex-Governor Rodman M. Price for a speech, 
 who, in response, related incidents about the occupation of 
 Monterey in 1846. He spoke of the contemplated presence 
 of General Fremont in Arizona as a promise of protection 
 to all citizens. He felt sure that his former associate would 
 serve with such distinction and prestige that thousands of 
 emigrants would follow in his footsteps. He looked for- 
 ward to the time when, in two or three years at the most, 
 Arizona would cease to be a Territory and would become a 
 State. Gov. Price also hinted at the possibility of the ac- 
 quisition of the Mexican State of Sonora in the near future. 
 
 Colonel T. B. Thorpe, in answer to a call, made a very 
 neat and complimentary speech, and in the course of his 
 remarks compared General Fremont to Jason, put pointed 
 out one great difference between the two. Jason was re- 
 ported to have had the very worst wife ever known, while 
 the General had the best that could have been chosen 
 among the American people. 
 
 Secretary Clark, in a short speech, referred to the fact 
 of this day being the thirty-second anniversary of " Steven- 
 son's Regiment" going upon Governor's Island, New York 
 harbor, preparatory to setting forth on the voyage to Cali- 
 
BRIEF SPEECHES BY OTHEES. 493 
 
 fornia, and that thirty-two years ago to-night the men took 
 their first supper (bread and coffee) at the expense of Uncle 
 Sam. Six of those men are with us to-night. [Secretary 
 Clark always refers with pride to the old regiment.] 
 
 Hon. Wm. Colligan, who was present at the hoisting of 
 the American flag at Monterey, was called upon for a 
 speech, but said he couldn't. Mr. Colligan was attached 
 to the command of Captain Fremont upon that terrible 
 march over Saint Inis Mountains, December 25th, 1846, 
 when the loss of animals was so great from the storm and 
 cold. Colonel E. C. Kemble, another gentlemen present, 
 was an officer in the same command. 
 
 Secretary Clark called attention to the fact that no name 
 is so inseparably connected with the explorations of General 
 Fremont as that of Kit Carson, but that gentleman had 
 long since departed this life ; but we had with us this 
 evening a gentleman who made that celebrated ride, in 
 company with Kit Carson, from California to New Mexico, 
 in 1848. That gentleman was Colonel George D. Brewer- 
 ton, a lieutenant in Stevenson's Regiment. 
 
 In response to the call of the assembled company Colo- 
 nel Brewerton arose. In appearance he is tall and finely 
 formed, with grizzled hair and whiskers, polished in his 
 language, and would hardly be recognized as the same per- 
 son whose portrait adorns the front of a work on Kansas 
 published in 1856, dressed in buckskin shirt, cap and 
 pants, with a rifle over his shoulder. 
 
 Colonel B. said he had sat listening this evening with 
 intense interest to every word that had dropped from the 
 lips of the speakers, and even now he could scarcely realize 
 that it was not all a dream. Was he really awake, or was 
 he once more amid the scenes of his younger days ? days of 
 so much pleasure and adventure upon the Pacific coast in 
 the years of 1847 and '48. I am asked to speak of Kit 
 Carson — not the Kit Carson we read about in the dime 
 novels and other sensational literature of the present day, 
 
494 RECOLLECTIONS OP KIT CARSON. 
 
 but Kit Carson as I knew him from close and intimate 
 acquaintanceship amid the mountains and plains of the 
 Pacific slope, and later, at his home, amid his family in 
 New Mexico. In manner he was mild and gentlemanly, 
 simple and childlike in his conversation, seldom or never 
 speaking of himself or his exploits, but in an emergency as 
 brave as a lion ; cool, and betraying no sign of fear amidst 
 the greatest dangers. That famous ride of Kit Carson's 
 with his twenty companions, of which I was one, from 
 California to New Mexico, in 1848, recalls an incident 
 that transpired, which clearly shows the character of the 
 man. One morning our small party was confronted 
 by a band of two hundred and fifty hostile Apache 
 Indians. Kit coolly surveyed his ground, and at a 
 glance took in the situation. Drawing a line on the ground 
 to their rear, he exclaimed, in that tone peculiar to Western 
 trappers : " Thar, thar ; let no man step across that line. 
 Our business is in front of us !" And, after a short and 
 determined fight the hostiles were dispersed. A few days 
 succeeding this event I asked Kit how he felt at the mo- 
 ment of discovering the Indians. He replied : " I thought 
 we should lose our ha'r before sundown ;" and yet no one 
 could detect in his actions the slightest sign to denote such 
 a feeling. Colonel B. said he never tired of speaking of 
 that noble and devoted associate of the Pathfinder, Kit 
 Carson. 
 
 Colonel E. F. Burton, Deputy Surveyor of the port of 
 New York and a member of the Society, being called upon 
 for " a few remarks," said, " It was a great pleasure for 
 this Society, the Associated Pioneers of — well, I cannot 
 recall the balance of our title, but friend Clark over in the 
 corner can give it to you, as he has studied it all by heart — 
 to have General Fremont with us this evening, but he 
 really did not think it was us that did the honor, for 
 all the honor came from General Fremont himself. It 
 was he that had honored us. He had a name that was 
 
A FLOEAL TKIBUTE TO MES. FEEMONT. 495 
 
 famous the world over." Colonel Burton continued in 
 his usual humorous strain, which caused the most deafen- 
 ing shouts of laughter and applause. His recollections of 
 the " Days of '49/' are always listened to with unusual 
 interest. 
 
 Colonel E. C. Kemble, in answer to a call, made a short 
 speech, in which he spoke of his arrival in California on 
 July 31st, 1846, in the ship Brooklyn, in company with 
 Mr. Samuel Brannan and the Mormon emigrants. He 
 gave a very graphic account of that terrible march down 
 the coast in the month of December, 1846, and of their 
 sufferings on the night of Christmas, when officers and 
 men laid down in a drenching storm without shelter or 
 food. Colonel Kemble said that until Mr. Colligan arose 
 he had supposed he and General Fremont were the only 
 ones present who participated in that march. Colonel 
 Kemble also spoke very feelingly of his old comrade and 
 partner, Mr. Edward Gilbert, a lieutenant of Stevenson's 
 regiment, both of whom were connected with the Alta Cali- 
 fornia at the date of Mr. Gilbert's death, the circumstances 
 of which are too well remembered by all old Californians. 
 
 Other speeches were made by Messrs. J. P. Curry, John 
 P. Bidwell (nephew of Mr. John Bidwell, of Chico, Cali- 
 fornia), Judge Curtis, a '49er, and Colonel "VV. L. Tidball. 
 
 Mr. James J. McCloskey, spoke of the recent death of 
 Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, a gentleman who was so well 
 known in San Francisco, and referred to the fact that 
 Colonel Lawrence was laid between the graves of one 
 brother-in-law and one cousin, both of whom had occupied 
 the position of Mayor of this great city. 
 
 Among the pleasant features of the evening M'as the 
 sending from the festive board of a magnificent basket of 
 flowers, with the name "Jessie " inscribed in floral letters, 
 to Mrs. General Fremont at her residence in West Twenty- 
 second Street, and in about one hour the following response 
 was returned, written upon one of Mrs. F.'s cards : 
 
496 MES. Fremont's response. 
 
 My grateful thanks for the lovely form of remembrance 
 from the Pioneers. 
 
 Jessie Benton Feemont. 
 
 The reception closed at a late hour, with long continued 
 cheers for the veteran American explorer and the chief 
 hero of the romantic history of the discovery, possession 
 and settlement of the gold regions of the great West. 
 The whole entertainment reflected great credit upon the 
 New York Society of California Pioneers, and General 
 Fremont will take fresh courage from this kindly greeting 
 of his old friends. 
 
RECEPTION TO HON. PHILIP A. EOACH. 
 
 The banquet — General H. Gates Gibson's address of welcome — 
 Senator Roach's response — Letters of regret — Notables present 
 — Speeches, etc. 
 
 On the arrival of Hon. Philip A. Roach, ex-President 
 of the " Society of California Pioneers," in New York, in 
 the summer of 1876, he was tendered a reception by " The 
 Associated Pioneers of the Teeeitoeial Days of 
 California," at the Sturtevant House, in that city, on 
 the evening of June 19th. 
 
 RECEPTION 
 
 TO THE 
 
 Hon. PHILIP A. ROACH, 
 
 OF SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Ex-President of the Society of California Pioneers, 
 
 On his First VkU to the Atlaniio Coast since the Spring oJiSkS, tyy 
 
 The Associated Fionesrs of the Territorial Days of California, 
 
 At their Head-quarters, Sturtevant House, Ifew York City, 
 
 Monday Evening, June I9th, 1876, 
 
 At 9 o'clock. 
 
 FRANCIS D. CLARK, H. G. GIBSON, 
 
 Seadary and Treasurer. Brevet Bng.-Gen. V. S. A., President. 
 
 The following account of the reception and banquet is 
 compiled from a report in the New York Herald of the 
 next morning, and memoranda furnished by Secretary 
 Francis D. Clark : 
 
 A reception was given last evening by the Pioneers of 
 California, at the Sturtevant House, to Hon. Philip A. 
 Roach, of San Francisco, this being his first visit to the 
 
 (497) 
 
498 ADDRESS OF WELCOME. 
 
 Atlantic coast since the spring of 1849. It is not at all 
 likely that the people who knew Mr. Roach as a young 
 man in this city previous to the memorable year of '49 
 will now recognize him. Twenty-seven years, under any 
 circumstances, alter a man's appearance, but in the case of 
 Mr. Roach they have worked additional wonders. They 
 have left him as straight, as hale and as hearty as the day 
 he set sail for the gold-land, but have turned his hair, 
 which is long and thick, to a snowy whiteness, preserving 
 withal his ruddy, rosy complexion — and have added many 
 pounds to his weight. When he entered the parlor last 
 evening, where were assembled from fifty to sixty of his 
 old comrades of the territorial days, in spite of the evident 
 advantage which was on their side, Mr. Roach seemed to 
 have the best of them in the matter of recoarnition. The 
 reception was unostentatious and without ceremony. Gene- 
 ral H. G. Gibson, U. S. A., President of the Society, took 
 the veteran's arm and led the way to the supper-room, the 
 others following. An elegant supper, provided under the 
 direction of the Messrs. Leland, was devoured with a 
 relish, the conversation at all points turning upon Califor- 
 nia, and many were the laughs and jokes of old times that 
 passed down the table. Wine and cigars being brought, 
 General Gibson arose and delivered the following eloquent 
 address of welcome : 
 
 Fellow-Californians : — ^You are aware of the purpose 
 for which we have assembled this evening — to welcome our 
 esteemed guest and brother-Pioneer, on the occasion of his re- 
 turn to the scenes of his boyhood, after an absence of twenty- 
 seven years ; and on a mission which commends itself to the 
 approval of all, who have at heart the welfare of California and 
 of our country. You will excuse me, therefore, whilst I ad- 
 dress a few words of greeting and remembrance to my old 
 friend and associate of the halcyon days of the Golden Land. 
 
 Senator Roach : — As an old and honored citizen of Cali- 
 fornia, and as one of her prominent Pioneers, the Associated 
 
FRIENDS OF LANG SYNE. 499 
 
 Pioneers of her Territorial Days have tendered you this recep- 
 tion ; and in their name, I bid you a cordial, hearty welcome, 
 on this your first visit to the Atlantic coast, since you left it in 
 the heyday of youth, to participate in the exciting and glorious 
 scenes and events of 1849. This duty is especially grateful to 
 me, not only as your personal friend of auld lang syne, but also 
 as the friend and companion of your brother, who, in the early 
 days of California, perished in the wild mountain-stream, and 
 who sleeps in the ancient chapel of the Mission, founded by the 
 fathers of the grand old church of Christendom, and beside 
 whose tomb the praise of song, and prayer, and incense ever 
 ascend to the Almighty. In this greeting of mine to-night, 
 however, I would not recall aught save the delightful recollec- 
 tions, connected with him, with you, and with the many episodes 
 and incidents of our life in California in years long past. Fami- 
 liar names, faces and scenes come to mind, with pleasurable emo- 
 tions, and with almost vivid reality. Monterey and its old 
 redoubt — historic from association with the American conquest, 
 and where many of the noted and unnoted heroes of the nation 
 once quartered; the little social gatherings, at which with 
 " John Phoenix," Alfred Sully, Selim Woodworth, Jack Ham- 
 ilton, Joe Boston, William Chevers and Theron Per Lee, the 
 wit and "fun grew fast and furious," amid "riot most un- 
 couth," though not unpleasant. And then, too, with Tom 
 Roach and Jack Durivage, traversing the beautiful valley of 
 the San Joaquin ; with the hills and plains in rich verdure clad, 
 and "bright and shining flowers," of every hue and exqui- 
 site variety, " springing from out the silent ground ;" or in the 
 graceful groves of oak, and on the borders of crystal, golden 
 streams, where in the quiet evening-camp, Tom Eoach 
 
 " lent to the rhyme of the poet 
 The beauty of his voice ; 
 And the night was filled with music, 
 And the cares that infest the day," 
 
 were dispersed, by his sweet melody and song of " Ochone ! 
 "Widow Machree !" More I might revive of these 
 
 " pictures of memory, long since hung away, 
 And faded by age, or the dust of the past;" 
 
500 MK. roach's reply. 
 
 more I might recall of " the friends so linked in love together ;" 
 but I forbear lest " chewing the cud of sweet and bitter fancies " 
 and recollections, mingled as they are in human life, I should 
 touch those tender chords of feeling, whose music " flows with " 
 sacred and " sweet meanings for the heart alone.'' But our 
 hearts must have become cold, indeed, fi-om contact with the 
 world, sadly hardened by the cares and sorrows of life, did they 
 fail to respond to the thoughts and emotions aroused by your 
 presence with us. 
 
 As the representative of the Pioneer element of California ; 
 as the last Alcalde and first Mayor of her ancient capital ; as 
 a leading journalist and distinguished Senator of the noble 
 Golden State, we are glad and proud to do you all honor ; but 
 the memories of sweet friendships, formed and cemented, amid 
 the novel and inspiring scenes of our youth in California, when 
 the heart was fresh and sincere, and "unspotted from the 
 world," require of us a greeting and welcome, as warm as that 
 which I now give you, on behalf of this Society. If I have 
 failed to express, in fitting language, all that I feel on this occa- 
 sion, or to convey to you, in glowing words, a most cordial wel- 
 come, you must attribute it to the poverty of the brain, not 
 the poverty of the heart. May God bless and prosper you all 
 the days of your life ; may greater honors in the future await 
 you, and may you ever find in the hearts of your friends in 
 California and elsewhere, a corner as fresh and green, as that 
 which you find in our own to-night. [Great applause.] 
 
 When Mr. Roach arose to respond, tears filled his eyes 
 and his voice was husky with emotions he tried hard to 
 conceal. " Fellow-pioneers," said he, " I have lived an 
 active life in California, and I have not often been so much 
 taken by surprise as to lose my speech, but the General has 
 surprised me to that extent just now; he has recalled 
 memories and awakened old feelings in my heart that check 
 my utterance. I see before me many of the men who as- 
 sisted in making the State of California. I see the first 
 editor, I see the old Collector. My mind wanders back to 
 the time when we were all brothers together. I feel twenty- 
 
GENEBAL BEALE'S LETTEE. 501 
 
 seven years younger to-night. Gentlemen, you must excuse 
 me until I can collect my thoughts and quell this emotion." 
 And Mr. Eoach sat down amid a storm of applause that 
 quite frightened the waiters, and made it appear that the 
 guests were still hardy young pioneers instead of quite 
 middle-aged and sedate old men. 
 
 The Secretary, Mr. Francis D. Clark, next read many 
 letters of regret. General Joe Hooker sent his greeting 
 and his sympathy. General Sherman regretted that a 
 recent visit to West Point made it impossible for him to 
 leave his post at this time. Colonel Burton, General Ed- 
 ward F. Beale and Mark Twain likewise sent regrets. 
 
 The following is General Beale's letter : 
 
 Lafayette Squaee, 
 "Washington, D. C, June 17th, 1876. 
 
 Francis D. Claek, Esq., Secretary of the Society of "The 
 Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," New 
 York — Bear Sir : — It is with much regret that I am compelled 
 to deny myself the pleasure of meeting you at the head-quarters 
 of our Society, on the 19th, to honor the return to the East, 
 after so prolonged an absence, of the Hon. Philip A. Roach. 
 
 The high respect I have for Mr. Roach, his eminent services 
 to the State we all love so much, and his honorable career 
 during so many years' residence in California, all combine to 
 render my regret at not being able to attend the more keen. I 
 have had the honor, pleasure and satisfaction of Mr. Roach's 
 acquaintance for very many years and, although I do not agree 
 with him in political sentiment, I believe there is no purer or 
 more patriotic citizen on the Pacific coast, and I think we can 
 well honor him who has so long and so ably stood as one of the 
 best representative men of dear old California. 
 
 "With great respect, your friend and obedient servant, 
 
 E. F. Beale. 
 
 A letter was also read from Samuel C. "Upham, of Phila- 
 delphia, extending an offer from that gentleman to write 
 
 an appropriate song to the air of " Auld Lang Syne " to be 
 29 o .' J 
 
502 MEMBERS AND GUESTS. 
 
 sung at the grand re-union of Californians, -which is to be 
 held at Philadelphia on the 9th of September next, which 
 oiFer was received with applause. After this, speeches fol- 
 lowed fast and furious. Mr. E. C. Kemble, an early Cali- 
 fornian editor, one of the founders of the Alia California, 
 made one of some length, in which he referred to a thousand 
 things dear to the memory of his listeners, anecdotes of 
 " Bob" Semple, who thought " California was governed too 
 much," and of old " Bob" Parker, sending the table off in 
 roars of laughter, and others of a different kind, exciting 
 tenderer emotions. 
 
 At one end of the room hung the old pioneer banner, 
 and until late at night the gentlemen sat at the table gazing 
 upon the emblematic bear, telling tales of long ago and 
 discussing the present and future prosperity of the " land 
 of gold." Among the guests were Mr. John Sickels, 
 Mr. W. B. Farwell, General Thomas D. Johns, John A. 
 Godfrey, O. H. Pierson, W. M. Walton, Colonel James E. 
 Nuttman, John J. Hager, General James F. Curtis, E. C. 
 Kemble, Hon. J. Sherwood, J. H. Butler, H. B. Hawkins, 
 Hon. Beverly C. Sanders, Benjamin W. Jenness, E. W. 
 Crowell, John Gault, Eobert W. Dowling, Alfred T. 
 Goodell, and other '49ers. 
 
 Later in the evening, Mr. Roach was again called to his 
 feet in response to some remarks made by gentlemen pre- 
 sent, who had referred to the fact that, notwithstanding 
 Mr. Roach was a bachelor, he had always been the cham- 
 pion of the female sex, and had fought hard in the legisla- 
 tive halls of California to insure to them all just and 
 womanly rights, and that as far back as 1852 he had been 
 the author and advocate of a law, still in force in the 
 Golden State, permitting women to transact business in 
 their own name, and to enjoy the fruit of their industry; 
 the law protecting them against the abuse or extravagance 
 of dissolute husbands, and that during the past winter, as 
 Senator from San Francisco, he had obtained the passage 
 
HON. BEVERLY C. SANDEES. 503 
 
 of a law punishing wife-beating with the lash. The re- 
 sponse of Mr. Koach was listened to with marked attention, 
 and when he again resumed his seat, the very walls re- 
 sounded with applause. 
 
 Hon. Beverly C. Sanders, who was one of the early 
 Collectors of the port of San Francisco, arose in response 
 to the call of the company, and made some very humorous 
 remarks. Among other things, he said that when he was 
 an officer of the government, the officers, as a general rule, 
 considered that the money which came into their hands 
 belonged to the government, but they had arrived at a 
 much higher degree of intelligence since that time. 
 
 The banquet was an enjoyable affair, and will long be 
 remembered by the '49ers of the Atlantic coast. 
 
DEDICATION OF THE LICK MONUMENT AT 
 EEEDERICKSBUEG, PA. 
 
 En route to Fredericksburg — Eeminiscences of the town — G-enealogy 
 of the Lick family — The house in which James Licit was born — 
 The old graveyard — Cedar Hill Cemetery — Unveiling and dedica- 
 tion of the monument — Addresses by Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, of 
 Lebanon, and Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia — Knights Tem- 
 plar inauguration ceremonies. 
 
 The following report of the dedication of the Lick 
 Monument was prepared expressly for, and published 
 originally in, The Pioneer, at San Jos6, California : 
 
 Philadelphia, April 25th, 1878. 
 Feiek^d Muegotten : — Presuming that an account of 
 the unveiling and dedication of the Lick Monument, at 
 Fredericksburg, Lebanon County, Pennsylvania, on the 
 22d instant, will interest the readers of The Pioneer, I will 
 endeavor to perform the task as briefly as possible. I left 
 Philadelphia on Saturday last, 20th instant, at half-past 
 three o'clock, P. M., on the Reading Railroad, and at Leb- 
 anon took the Tremont branch road for Jonestown, 7 miles 
 distant, where I arrived at eight o'clock the same evening, 
 and remained over night. Jonestown, situated on both 
 sides of Swatara Creek, is a thrifty inland town, con- 
 sisting of a single street and a population of about eight 
 hundred inhabitants. After breakfast on the following 
 (Sunday) morning, I engaged a team, and with Mr. Simon 
 Desh as guide and interpreter, started for Fredericksburg, 
 about 4 miles distant, and 85 miles from Philadelphia, 
 where I arrived at about ten o'clock, A. M. A patois, 
 
FKEDEBICKSBUKG. 505 
 
 called by the natives "Pennsylvania Dutch," is spoken 
 almost exclusively in Lebanon and Berks Counties, and an 
 interpreter is required by any one not familiar with that 
 language. The scenery en route was magniiicent. Large 
 iields of waving grain gladdened the eye in every direction, 
 and the apple and pear-blossoms perfumed the air with 
 their fragrance. The land between Jonestown and Frede- 
 ricksburg is mostly owned by the Dunkards, a thrifty but 
 parsimonious sect. Mr. Desh, my companion, informed 
 me that whenever a coin of the realm came into their pos- 
 session, they squeezed it so tightly that the Bird of Free- 
 dom invariably shrieked.* Whatever may be said of their 
 religious and social habits, they certainly own the most 
 magnificent farms I have ever seen, and their double- 
 banked Swiss barns and other outbuildings are in keeping 
 with their farms. In feet, the entire Lebanon Valley, 60 
 miles in length by 20 miles in breadth, is the garden-spot 
 of the Keystone State. 
 
 Fredericksburg, formerly Stumptown, is one of the 
 oldest towns in the Lebanon Valley, and was founded by 
 Frederick Stump, a pioneer and Indian-fighter, in 1755. 
 In after years, as the town increased in wealth and popu- 
 lation, the old burghers dropped the name of Stumptown 
 and dignified it with the title of Fredericksburg, derived 
 from Stump's Christian name. The old villagers don't 
 like to be reminded of the former name of their town. If 
 any one desires to know whether " cuss words" are obsolete, 
 let him say Stumptown to a Fredericksburger. It is said 
 of Stump, that while on a hunting expedition in the vicinity 
 of Harrisburg, he amused himself one morning by slaying, 
 single-handed, ten drunken Indians, whose bodies he shoved 
 
 * Since the above was written, I have been informed by Mr. John H. 
 Lick, that on Dedication day, Mr. Gible, living on the Jonestown road, 
 and Mr Oberholtzer, residing in the eastern part of the town, dined one 
 hundred and fifty persons, for which they declined to receive any remu- 
 neration; thus verifying the aphorism, that the devil is not as black as 
 he 13 sometimes painted. 
 
506 THE STREETS AND THE HOUSES. 
 
 under the ice and they floated down the Susquehanna Eiver 
 to their happy hunting-grounds. 
 
 Fredericksburg contains at this time nine hundred in- 
 habitants, and, like Jonestown, is surrounded by a rich 
 farming country. Several of its citizens count their wealth 
 by hundreds of thousands of dollars. The brothers J. W. 
 and E. Grove, who own the largest ironworks in Pennsyl- 
 vania, located at Danville, are natives of this town, and I 
 visited them at their spacious mansion on its,jSOuthern out- 
 skirts. The Groves own one of the largest, if not the very 
 largest, farm in Lebanon County. It is about a mile in 
 width and extends several miles in length. They are 
 millionaires. John H. Lick, before the death of his father, 
 was reported to be worth $25,000, made in the mercantile 
 business in this quaint old town. 
 
 The town is mostly built on Main or Market Street, a 
 quarter of a mile in length, running east and west, in 
 the centre of which there is a small square or market-place. 
 Centre, Mechanic and Pinegrove Streets cross Market Street 
 at right angles, running north and south. The buildings 
 are mostly frame, with an occasional brick front blushing 
 between its whitewashed neighbors, and forming an agree- 
 able contrast. At the south-west corner of Market and 
 Pinegrove- Streets, is a large plot of ground surrounded on 
 two sides by horse-chestnut trees with whitewashed trunks, 
 owned by John H. Lick. 
 
 About midway, and on the north side of Market Square, 
 stands a two-story red frame house, somewhat rickety with 
 age, in which James Lick's father kept a hotel some fifty 
 years ago. Against the small glass window over the front 
 door is " J. Lick," formed of rudely-carved letters. Haifa 
 square east of the old Lick Hotel, on the same side of the 
 street, stands a recently-built two-story brick building, on 
 the site of the house in which the mother of James Lick 
 died in the year 1812. The old house was destroyed by a 
 conflagration in the year 1827, in which more than one- 
 

 507 
 
JAMES lick's bikthplace. 509 
 
 half of the buildings of the town were burned. James 
 Lick was born on the 25th of August, 1796, in a log or 
 block-house, still standing, about two miles west of the vil- 
 lage of Fredericksburg.* Some ten or fifteen years since, 
 Mr. Lick wrote to one of his old friends in Fredericks- 
 burg, asking if the old house in which he was born could 
 be taken down and shipped to California. He said he 
 desired to show the people of the Golden State the house 
 in which he was born. On examination, the logs of the 
 old structure were found to be too much decayed for re- 
 moval, and the project was abandoned. 
 
 John Lick, father of James, was born on September 13th, 
 1765, in Montgomery County, Pa., and removed to Fred^ 
 ericksburg, then Stumptown, when a young man. He Avas 
 a carpenter and joiner by profession, and one of the most 
 ingenious workers in wood in that section of the state. 
 He married in Fredericksburg, and both he and his wife 
 died there. James inherited his father's mechanical talent. 
 Their remains lie in the old Reformed and Lutheran 
 graveyard, on the east side of Pinegrove Street, on a slight 
 eminence, commanding a fine view of the village. Their 
 graves are some twenty feet apart, without headstones, each 
 being inclosed by a plain iron railing, erected by their 
 grandson, John H. Lick, in the year 1867. 
 
 During the afternoon, I made the acquaintance of John 
 Desh, a hale old man of seventy-eight years, who never 
 enjoyed the luxury of a law-suit in his life. He smokes 
 and chews tobacco, and occasionally indulges in a glass of 
 lager for his stomach's sake. Jacob Weaber, also aged 
 seventy-eight years, is a chum of Desh, and the two old 
 
 * The house in which. James Lick was born, like the birthplace of 
 Homer, seems to be a mooted question. I have the authority of George 
 Brutzman, John Desh and Jacob Buchmoyer, old residents of Fred- 
 ericksburg, for stating that James Lick was born in the old block-hnuse, 
 two miles west of the village of Fredericksburg. John H. Lick is of 
 the opinion that his father was not born in that house. Quien sabef 
 
510 VISITS TO AND FEO. 
 
 burghers are fast friends. They are the men whom the 
 poet probably had in his mind's eye when he wrote — 
 
 " Their hours in cheerful smoking flew, 
 Nor envy nor ambition knew." 
 
 James Lick visited Fredericksburg only once after his 
 departure in the year 1819, and no one living in the old 
 town at this time can say positively in what year he re- 
 turned, but incline to the belief that it was in the year 
 1832 — " thar or tharabouts." One old burgher informed 
 me that he was loaded down with doubloons, which he car- 
 ried in belts around his body. He came to Fredericks- 
 burg with a horse and buggy, which on his departure, 
 about two weeks after his arrival, he presented to his 
 brother William. The horse died soon after ; the buggy was 
 then sold, and the proceeds, $100, were given to John H. 
 Lick when he attained his majority. This amount repre- 
 sented one-third of the capital with which he started busi- 
 ness. His education was paid for by one of his uncles. 
 Jacob Buchmoyer, a cordwainer, now in his seventy-eighth 
 year, was an intimate friend and schoolmate of James Lick. 
 I had, with the aid of an interpreter, a long talk with the 
 old gentleman, who showed me a relic he had preserved 
 many years and which he still treasures highly. It was a 
 piece of one of the leg-bones of the horse James Lick pre- 
 sented to his brother William, on his visit to Fredericks- 
 burg in the year 1832. 
 
 John H. Lick lived in Lebanon and Centre Counties from 
 the time of his birth, June 30th, 1818, until he joined his 
 paterfamilias, in California, in 1855. On his first visit to 
 the Golden State, John remained with his father about three 
 years. In about one year after his return to the old home- 
 stead he again visited his father in California, who sent 
 him on a tour in Europe ; after visiting Germany, 
 France and England, he returned to California, where he 
 remained with his father until August, 1871, when he re- 
 
lick's genealogy. 513 
 
 turned East, where he remained until the death of his 
 father, in the fall of 1876, when he again visited Califor- 
 nia, where he now resides. When John received his 
 father's summons from California, in 1852, he was en- 
 gaged in mercantile business in his native town, and 
 replied that he could not dispose of his store and settle 
 up his business without great pecuniary sacrifice. The 
 following characteristic reply was soon afterward received 
 from the senior Lick : " If you can't sell your store, give it 
 away. Gome at once. I have enough for both of us !" It 
 is perhaps needless to add that John went, but not until 
 the summer of 1855. 
 
 From the fall of 1859 until 1863, John had the entire 
 supervision of his father's flour-mill, near Alviso. The net 
 profits during those three years were $52,000. In conse- 
 quence of ill-health, John returned East in the year 1863, 
 and during his absence, owing to some trouble with his suc- 
 cessor, his father closed the mill. In 1868, the old gen- 
 tleman offered to sell the property, which had cost him 
 1500,000, for $250,000, but could not find a purchaser, 
 and in the year 1872 he donated it to the "Tom Paine 
 Society," of Boston. The Paineites, finding that they had 
 an elephant on their hands, sold the property to Pfister & 
 Waterman for $18,000, who converted it into a paper- 
 mill. The sale of the mill displeased Mr. Lick very 
 much. 
 
 John H. Lick is highly respected by his fellow-townsmen, 
 and his return from California will be hailed by them with 
 exceeding great joy. I am indebted to Mr. George Brutz- 
 man, of Fredericksburg, for the following genealogy of 
 John, father of James, Lick's family : 
 
 John Lick, father of James Lick, born September 13th, 
 1765, and died June 13th, 1831. 
 
 James Lick, the eldest son, born August 25th, 1796, in 
 Stumptown, now Fredericksburg, Dauphin County, Pa, 
 (Lebanon County, in M'hich Fredericksburg is situated, was 
 
614 CEDAB HILL CEMETERY. 
 
 formerly a portion of Dauphin County.) Mr. Lick's spon- 
 sor or godfather was John Gettel. 
 
 The second child was born July 25th, 1797. It died in 
 infancy. 
 
 John Lick, born May 24th, 1798, in Bethel Township, 
 Dauphin County, Pa. Tlie sponsors were Christian Long 
 and Molly Gettel. 
 
 Catharine Lick, born January 8th, 1800, in Bethel 
 Township, Dauphin County, Pa. Catharine Licken was 
 her godmother. 
 
 Sarah Lick, born August 27th, 1802, in Bethel Town- 
 ship, Dauphin County, Pa, Sponsors, Conrad Reinoehl 
 and wife. 
 
 Jacob Lick, born January 25th, 1804. Baptized March 
 1st, 1804. Sponsor, Jacob Weaber. 
 
 Margretta Lick, born September 27th, 1806, and bap- 
 tized on the 6th of the following March. Margretta Weaber 
 officiated as godmother. 
 
 William Lick, born February 11th, 1808, in Bethel 
 Township, Lebanon County, Pa., and baptized April 16th, 
 the same year, by the Rev. George Lochman. His spon- 
 sors were his parents. 
 
 Margretta Lick, born April lltb, 1816, in Bethel 
 Township, Lebanon County, Pa. 
 
 Cedar Hill Cemetery, in which the Lick Monument is 
 erected, is situated on an elevated piece of ground, embrac- 
 ing about four acres, about a quarter of a mile north-east 
 of Market Square. William, brother of James, was the 
 projector of the cemetery. The land was purchased and 
 inclosed in the year 1869. The first person buried in 
 the cemetery was Daniel H. Eisenhaur, September 20th, 
 1869. Since that time, to April 22d, 1878, one hundred 
 and sixty interments have been made in the cemetery. 
 About one hundred feet west of the Lick Monument, in a 
 plot of ground inclosed by a tasteful iron railing, lie 
 the remains of William Lick. A plain obelisk of Italian 
 
THE lilCK MONUMENT. 515 
 
 marble, about ten feet in height, bears the following in- 
 scription : 
 
 WILLIAM LICK, 
 
 BOBN PEBEUAEY IItH, 1808, 
 DIED DECEMBEE 21ST, 1872. 
 
 Aged 64 years, 10 mo's, 10 days. 
 
 The Lick Monument stands in the eastern section of the 
 cemetery, in a commanding position, and its symmetrical 
 shaft, surmounted by the Goddess of Liberty, resting her 
 right hand on a shield and grasping Tivith her left a par- 
 tially-folded flag, can be seen for many miles. It stands 
 on a secure foundation, composed of no less than sixty-five 
 perches of stone laid in cement. The interior is solid brick 
 work — ten thousand bricks being used to fill it up. The 
 monument contains one hundred and fifteen pieces of Scotch 
 granite, from the famed Aberdeen quarry, several of which 
 weigh over two tons each, and its entire weight is one 
 hundred and seventy-five tons. It also contains nine 
 statues of Italian marble, the Goddess of Liberty being 
 eight and a half feet in height. There are also four large 
 urns of the same material. The contractor and sculptor, 
 Mr. Robert Eeid, of Montreal, Canada, shipped the monu- 
 ment by rail to Jonestown, four miles distant from Fred- 
 ericksburg, it was transported from that place to the 
 cemetery by wagons and other vehicles, furnished by the 
 farmers of the neighborhood. Three experts came with 
 the monument, and were engaged about two months in its 
 erection. The monument is sixteen feet square at its base, 
 and its extreme height is thirty-five feet and six inches. 
 At the four corners, a few feet above the base, stand- 
 ing on projections or pedestals, are four life-size female 
 figures, each holding a scroll, on which is engraved respec- 
 tively the following appropriate Scriptural mottoes : At 
 the south-east corner, "Blessed are the dead which die in 
 the Lord ;" south-west corner, " He being dead, yet speak- 
 
516 WILLIAM AND CATHAEINE. 
 
 eth ;" north-east corner, " He giveth His beloved sleep ;" 
 north-west corner, "Blessed are they that do His com- 
 mandments." On the south or front side, four feet above 
 the base, is the word " Lick," in raised letters, six inches 
 in length, with polished surface. In niches on each of 
 its four sides, some twelve feet above the base, are life-size 
 statues of a Continental soldier in uniform, and Faith, 
 Hope and Charity. Above the head of the soldier are the 
 words " Valley Foege," in raised letters, with polished 
 surface. On the four corners, two or three feet lower than 
 the statues, stand four large and partially-draped urns. 
 On the south or front side, midway between the word 
 " Lick " and the statue of the Continental soldier, is a 
 tablet three by five feet, with polished surface, bearing the 
 following inscription in gilt letters : 
 
 COMMEMOEATIVE 
 
 of the services rendered by 
 
 WILLIAM LICK, 
 
 (Grandfather of James Lick,) 
 
 AT VALLEY TOBGE 
 
 and in other struggles of the Revolutionary "War 
 
 for American Independence : 
 
 Who died in Montgomery County, Pa., 
 
 at the age of 
 
 One Hundred and Four Years. 
 
 There is a tablet of the same size on each of the three 
 other sides. The one on the east side bears the following 
 inscription : 
 
 IN MEMORY OF 
 
 CATHARINE LICK, 
 
 (Sister of James Lick,) 
 
 Who was born at Fredericksburg, Penna., 
 
 January 8th, 1800 ; 
 
 Died at Manheim, Penna., 
 
 April 10th, 1862. 
 
LICK MOXUMEXT, FREDERICKSBURG, TA. 
 
 517 
 
JOHN, SAEAH AND JAMES. 
 On the north side : 
 
 519 
 
 IN MEMOEY OF 
 
 JOHN LICK, 
 
 (Father of James Lick,) 
 
 "Who was born September 13th, 1765 ; 
 
 Died June 13th, 1831. 
 
 Also in Memory of 
 
 SAEAH LICK, (His Wife,) 
 
 Who died at Fredericksburg, A. D., 1812, 
 
 Aged Forty Years. 
 
 On the west side : 
 
 THIS MONUMENT, ERECTED IN 1876, 
 BY 
 
 JAMES LICK, 
 
 WHO WAS BORN AT 
 FREDERICKSBURG, PBNNA., 
 
 August 25th, 1796 ; 
 
 Died, at San Francisco, California, 
 
 October 1st, 1876. 
 
 The monument was erected at a cost of $20,000, and, as 
 a work of art, reflects great credit upon the sculptor. 
 For beauty of design and elegance of finish, it is un- 
 equaled by any monument of its size in the United States, 
 and the gentlemen composing the Lick Trust have shown 
 excellent judgment and taste in their selection of a design 
 which has been so skillfully and artistically executed by 
 the contractor. 
 
 During Sunday the wind blew a gale from the north-west, 
 and Mr. Eeid was fearful that he would not be able to 
 keep the monument covered until the time for unveiling 
 arrived, but fortunately the wind went down with the set- 
 
520 THE DEDICATION CEREMONIES. 
 
 ting sun, and he retired to his couch a happy man. Mr. 
 Reid and myself stopped at the same hotel — " The Travel- 
 er's Repose " — and occupied the same room. We retired 
 early, and before performing our evening devotions, put a 
 little old Otard, furnished by Mr. E,., where we thought it 
 would do the most good. I slept soundly until midnight, 
 when a discordant fife and dilapidated kettle-drum awoke 
 the whole town and rendered the remainder of the night 
 perfectly hideous. My room-mate was uncharitable enough 
 to wish that the persistent fifer would blow his " blarsted " 
 head off, and your correspondent seconded the motion. 
 
 At an early hour on Monday morning, the people from 
 the adjacent towns commenced flocking into Fredericks- 
 burg, and the old town was thoroughly awakened from its 
 sleep of one hundred and fifty years. At noon there were 
 over six thousand persons present, and the two hotels, private 
 residences and streets were filled to their utmost capacity. 
 
 The dedication ceremonies were under the supervision 
 of a committee of citizens of Fredericksburg, with Colonel 
 J. P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon, as chairman. Colonel Gobin 
 was the head and front of the affair, and most admirably 
 did he perform the duties intrusted to him. In addition 
 to being chairman of the committee of arrangements, he 
 was orator of the day, and also Commander of the Hermit 
 Commandery, Knights Templar, of Lebanon. Chief Mar- 
 shal, Dr. A. W. Shultz, assisted by Augustus Behney, J. 
 Kcphart and I. J. W. Fox, formed the procession on Pine- 
 grove Street, at one o'clock, P. M., in the following order : 
 
 1. Committee of Reception. 
 
 2. Committee of Arrangements. 
 
 3. S. C. Upham, representative of "The Society of California Pio- 
 
 neers," and Mr. Eobert Eeid, contractor and sculptor of the 
 monument. 
 
 4. Perseverance Band, of Lebanon, Pa. 
 
 5. Grand Lodge Officers, Knights Templar; Grand Recorder, Chas. 
 
 E. Meyer ; Grand Treasurer, M. Eichards Muckl^ ; Grand Pre- 
 late, Eev. D. Washburn. 
 
AT THE CEMETERY. 521 
 
 6. Hermit Commandery, No. 24, Knights Templar, 76 men, Adam 
 
 Rise, Eminent Commander. 
 
 7. Invited Guests. 
 
 8. Fredericksburg Band. 
 
 9. Thirteen girls dressed in white, with blue sashes and red ribbons, 
 
 carrying a flag. 
 
 10. Millersburg Band. 
 
 11. Citizens, four abreast. 
 
 12. Choir, composed of twelve ladies and six gentlemen. 
 
 13. Pinegrove Band. 
 
 The procession marched down Pinegrove Street to Mar- 
 ket, down Market to Centre, out Centre to Locust, down 
 Locust to Mechanic, down Mechanic to Market, up Market 
 to Pinegrove, and out Pinegrove to the cemetery. 
 
 CEREMONIES AT THE CBMETEEY. 
 
 1. Music. 
 
 2. Prayer by the Eev. Daniel Washburn, Grand Prelate of the Knights 
 
 Templar, of Pennsylvania. 
 
 3. "Star Spangled Banner," by a choir of ladies and gentlemen. 
 
 4. Address by Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon, Pennsylvania. 
 
 5. Music. 
 
 6. Address by Samuel C. XJpham, of Philadelphia, representative of 
 
 " The Society of California Pioneers." 
 
 7. Dedication of Monument, by Hermit Commandery. 
 
 8. Music. 
 
 9. Benediction, by Grand Prelate Washburn. 
 
 At the conclusion of the music by the Perseverance Baud, 
 the Knights were ordered to uncover, and Grand Prelate 
 Washburn delivered, in a deep and sonorous voice, the 
 following impressive and appropriate prayer : 
 
 Almighty Lord and Saviour, before the mountains were 
 brought forth, or ever the earth and the world were made, 
 Thou art God from everlasting to everlasting. In Thy name 
 we assemble, even the name of Immanuel, under the ausx^ices 
 of the Masonic Brotherhood of Knights Templar of Pennsyl- 
 vania, to dedicate this monument of James Lick, with his 
 ancestors and kindred. To Thee, O God, in whom we live, do 
 we give thanks for our being, our reason, and all the faculties 
 of our souls and bodies. We thank Thee for all the blessings 
 
522 THE OKATION. 
 
 of this laud of plenty, of liberty, and of peace. We thank 
 Thee that rising from this mountain site of our Keystone State 
 is seen this splendid token of a perpetual Union extending un- 
 broken from the Atlantic to the Pacific. With Faith, Hope 
 and Charity, its defender stands aloft in grateful presence 
 under the Jiegis of triumphant Freedom. To Thee for the 
 State, for the Church, for the family institution so potent in 
 its beneficence, and the filial affection that in consequence has 
 enshrined itself here in marble, we give thanks, and humbly 
 pray their blessings upon all our generations. Be with us, O 
 God of our fathers, this day and ever. Bless everywhere our 
 fraternity. Bless the President and Governor, and all in 
 authority. Let the Gospel of our redemption shine unto all 
 nations, and may as many as have received it live as becomes 
 it. Bless the work of all who are here, making these valleys 
 stand so thick with corn that they shall laugh and sing. And 
 finally, our God of Peace who brought again from the dead 
 our Lord Jesus Christ, the Great Shepherd of the sheep, 
 through the blood of the everlasting covenant, make us all 
 perfect to do Thy will, working in us that which is well 
 pleasing in Thy sight, through Jesus Christ, to whom be glory 
 forever and ever. Amen. 
 
 At the conclusion of the prayer, the "Star Spangled 
 Banner" was rendered in fine style by the choir. Colonel 
 J. P. S. Gobin, orator of the day, being introduced by 
 Hon. F. M. Bachman, delivered the following eloquent 
 address : 
 
 Friends and Fellow-Citizens: — The occasion of our 
 assembling at this time and in this beautiful cemetery, is one 
 fraught with more than ordinary interest. Representative 
 men from the far distant shores of the Pacific ; officials from 
 our own and other States ; numbers of those who bear the 
 banner of the cross, rendered immortal by the martial deeds 
 of the Knights of the Temple of old, amid the sands of Syria — ■ 
 a vast concourse of our fellow-citizens from the surrounding 
 country, have gathered to show their appreciation of the heart 
 
LOVE OP HOME. 623 
 
 feeling evidenced by these ceremonies. And beautiful, grace- 
 ful, enduring as is the monument that rises before us, and 
 ■which vre are about to dedicate, it is but typical of the senti- 
 ment which its erection illustrates. That sentiment is love of 
 home — love of the spot which gave you birth, and with which 
 every thought of your childhood's days are identified ; and 
 above all, that holy, undying love for father and mother, for 
 brother and sisters, for family ties^ and the old hearthstone, 
 which time, with all its attendant vicissitudes, cannot obliterate 
 or drive from the soul, but which, amid prosjaerity or adversity, 
 is the green spot toward which the pilgrim's mind is ever 
 directed. Aye, as each revolution of the grand cycle carries 
 us nearer our ultimate goal, bringing with it increased age and 
 additional responsibilities, it is the thought of those who gave 
 us life, perhaps dwelling afar off in some distant clime, whose 
 loved forms we have not beheld, save in our dreams, for many 
 years, but whose images are impressed indelibly upon our 
 hearts, that causes the blood to course more rapidly and all 
 the better feelings of our nature make themselves manifest. 
 Could we but look into the mind of him whose memory is to 
 be commemorated by our ceremonies to-day, as, after many 
 days of weary wanderings upon unknown seas, and amid 
 storms and sunshine, he beheld accumulating around him the 
 fruits of his industry, energy and genius, doubtless we would 
 have beheld there a longing for yon grand old mountains, 
 those green fields, the streets of your quiet, beautiful village, 
 the familiar greeting of the friends of his boyhpod, and more 
 prominently than all others, the desire to fulfill to the utmost 
 the Divine injunction, Honor thy father and mother. As the 
 result of this we have the beautiful structure before us, and the 
 interested concourse of people to witness its dedication. 
 
 Another thought suggested, and which cannot fail, to impress 
 the most casual observer, is in the fact, that in the erection of 
 this monument we have so striking an illustration of the won- 
 derful growth of our nation, and what is susceptible of being 
 done by a citizen within it, of energy, genius and pluck. In 
 imagination, and passing before you as a panorama, you can 
 
 behold the boy James Lick, the child in your village streets, 
 30 
 
524 GEANDFATHEK AND FATHER OF JAMES LICK. 
 
 gamboling amidst your fields, indulging in all tlie s])orts of 
 merry boyhood's days. At an early age he sallies forth to test 
 the world, to be the architect of his own future, and in the 
 Golden State we behold him in his mature age, reaching out 
 as it were into the old world for the products of their skill and 
 art, with which to beautify and adorn the graves of those of his 
 own blood. It is the greeting of the man in the young East 
 to the boy in the older West ; of the man. of accumulated 
 wealth in California to the memory of the aspiring boy of the 
 old Keystone State. 
 
 From a work entitled " Representative Men of California," 
 we learn some facts relative to him : 
 
 James Lick was born in the village of Fredericksburg, 
 within a short distance of where we are now assembled, on the 
 25th of August, 1796, of German ancestry. His grandfather 
 was one of that worthy race who found a home in the infant 
 colonies, to be devoted to freedom, and soon, thereafter, upon 
 the battle-field of the Revolution, proved his courage and pa- 
 triotism. The sufierings of this aged veteran at Valley Forge 
 evidently made a deep impression upon the young lad, as he 
 listened to their recital — impressions which were never efiaced, 
 and which we find, to-day, transferred to the monument upon 
 which his name stands so prominent. The Continental soldier 
 is before you as the representative of the acts of his ancestors 
 in the days which tried men's souls. Near this historic ground — 
 Norristown — the father of James Lick was born. He married, 
 at an early day, a Miss Long, and emigrated to Fredericks- 
 burg, the birthplace of James. His education was such as 
 was taught in the small towns of the interior of that day — suf- 
 ficiently meagre, none 'can doubt. We next find him work- 
 ing as an organ-maker in Hanover, Pa., already exhibiting 
 the energy and desire for adventure which distinguished his 
 after life. In 1819, he obtained employment in the establish- 
 ment of Joseph Hiskey, a prominent piano manufacturer in 
 Baltimore. While here he met a young man named Meyer, in 
 search of employment, and between the two was formed a 
 friendship which lasted through life. The lad Meyer, of 1819, 
 is Conrad Meyer, of Philadelphia, to-day, the celebrated piano 
 
EAELY. LIFE AND SUCCESS OF JAMES. 525 
 
 manufacturer, who, while accfumulating fame and fortune in 
 Pennsylvania, never ceased to rejoice over the success of his 
 friend in other and varied fields. In 1820, young Lick went 
 to New York to go into business. The want of capital inter- 
 fered with his success, and at the end of that year he joined an 
 expedition to Buenos Ayres. As this country had but recently 
 become independent, it promised a grand future. Although 
 earnestly solicited to accompany him, his friend Meyer re- 
 fused, and Lick made the journey alone. For ten years in 
 this new country, he followed his business, manufacturing 
 pianos, and began to reap the reward of his industry. In 
 1832, he surprised his friends by a visit to his native State, 
 bringing with him $40,000 worth of valuable South American 
 skins and hides. This return gave him for a moment a desire 
 to remain, and he even rented a house on Eighth Street, in 
 Philadelphia, with the intention of going into business in that 
 city. His ardent temperament could not brook the quiet life 
 this promised. His thoughts, doubtless, reverted to the free- 
 dom and greater scope of action which the southern hemisphere 
 afforded, and relinquishing his leased premises, he again sailed 
 for South America. In a few months after arriving there he 
 had settled his business in Buenos Ayres and sailed for Chili. 
 In 1833, his home is in Valparaiso, and he is hard at work at 
 his old trade, in addition to engaging in other ventures. In 1837, 
 his restless spirit looked out toward other scenes of conquest in 
 his line, and he selected Peru as the place of his future opera- 
 tions. To determine was to act, and he at once repaired thither 
 with all his worldly goods. Pursuing the even tenor of his 
 ways, he is about given up for dead, when his friend Meyer re- 
 ceived a package from him, containing some $1,400 in gold 
 doubloons, and an order for the inside work or action for twelve 
 upright pianos, which he wished forwarded to Lima, Peru. 
 About this time, his attention was directed tqward California, 
 now coming into prominence, and after due consideration he 
 determined to proceed to the new El Dorado to be. Influen- 
 tial friends endeavored to dissuade him from this step. He was 
 assured that the United States could not hold California ; that 
 the inhabitants were a set of cut-throats, who would murder 
 
526 AEEIVAL IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 him for his money ; in short, that he was very well where he 
 was and that it would be folly to go elsewhere. To this James 
 -Lick gave answer, that he knew the character of the American 
 •government and its people, and it was not in their nature to 
 give up a country it had once laid hold of, and as for the other 
 reasons, he had implicit confidence in his ability to take care 
 of himself. A new difficulty presented itself, however, the 
 surmounting of which shows the character of the man. He 
 had on hand a contract for a number of pianos, when his work- 
 men suddenly left for California. To violate his word was not 
 for a moment to be considered — his contract must be fulfilled — 
 and he personally did the work, although it cost him two years 
 of hard labor to perform it. His pianos finished, everything 
 is converted into money at a great sacrifice, and he is possessed 
 of $30,000 in gold doubloons. With this he sailed for Cali- 
 fornia, in the ship Lady Adams, arriving at San Francisco in 
 the latter part of 1847. In the spring of 1848, San Fran- 
 cisco contained barely a thousand inhabitants. It had just 
 emerged from its pristine condition and primitive name of 
 Yerba Buena, and was becoming, under American rule, a valu- 
 able sea-port. Rumors of the discovery of gold filled the air, 
 and tens of thousands flocked into and flooded out of the new 
 metropolis of the Pacific. The vast majority, irrespective of 
 class, rushed to the mines ; the sagacious minority remained in 
 the city. Among the latter was James Lick. His shrewd in- 
 sight told him that a great city would arise on this peninsula ; 
 it would be the inlet and the outlet, not only of the commerce of 
 California, but eventually of the whole Northern Pacific coast. 
 The sand-hills which stretched out from the coast, and the 
 c/tapa?'ra^-covered eminences, his prophetic vision converted 
 into broad streets and avenues, lined with handsome and en- 
 during structures. He foresaw the population streaming from 
 every quarter of the globe to this focus of attraction ; the 
 ships laden with the necessaries and luxuries of life, and he 
 took his measures accordingly. Quietly and carefully he in- 
 - vested his money, sowing his gold broadcast over many a piece 
 of ground, the sellers jubilant and exultant at the price he 
 paid them. During 1848, he pursued this course. Keeping 
 
HIS LANDS, HIS MILL, ETC. 527 
 
 his own counsel, as -was Ms wont, none knew the extent of his- 
 purchases, or the amount he paid for any of them. The usual 
 contests over titles were encountered, and frequently he was 
 compelled to enforce his rights through the persuasive elo-, 
 quence of leveled revolvers. Squatters would respect these 
 arguments, and instances are reported of their houses disap- 
 pearing almost as rapidly as the tenants. The risk was great 
 hut he accepted it, and having planted his money in the 
 ground, he serenely awaited the harvest. It came, and rapidly. 
 As the city increased, in the heart were observed large vacant, 
 unimproved lots, apparently forsaken, but which the inquirer 
 found belonged to James Lick. Meanwhile he branched off 
 in other pursuits. In 1852, he purchased a property in San 
 Jos6, and had erected a mill, which was probably never 
 equaled in the world. The wood was of mahogany, and the 
 machinery of the finest description. It cost him $200,000, 
 and by some was regarded as a folly, but it turned out the 
 finest flour in California, and Lick's brand commanded the 
 market. Around the mill, with his own hands, he planted a 
 splendid orchard of fruit trees, which in those early days was 
 itself a fortune. During all this, he did not forget his handi- 
 work, and in 1872, he addressed a characteristic letter to his. 
 old friend Meyer, discussing some of the peculiarities of piano, 
 making, and giving his own views as to their relative merits. 
 The Lick House, in San Francisco, was another of his enter- 
 prises. It covers nearly an entire block, and in the floor he 
 displayed the knowledge which he had gathered while working 
 at the bench. He composed it of many thousand pieces of 
 inlaid wood, highly polished. 
 
 When the fraternity of Free Masons wished to erect a tem- 
 ple in San Francisco, they found the only site which would 
 suit them belonged to James Lick, and was a part of the 
 square upon which he designed to erect the Lick House. Of 
 course it was not for sale. However, one of the brethren 
 frankly approached him, and in a straightforward manner told 
 him it was the only spot which suited them. The result was 
 that the ground now covered by the handsome temple, in 
 which our brethren of the Golden City greet their fraters from 
 
628 THE GEEAT PURPOSE OF HIS LIFE. 
 
 abroad so cordially, was secured, and the Lick House was to 
 that extent curtailed in its proportions. Those only -who 
 knew the man, could fully appreciate the sacrifice he made in 
 this transaction. 
 
 Although reluctant to sell, he was lavish in his gifts.' The 
 Pioneer Society, an organization which has so ably represented 
 the State on different occasions, and over which he presided, 
 received as a donation, the land upon which their hall is situ- 
 ated, and subsequently a larger and more valuable property. 
 The California Academy of Sciences received a lot of great 
 value also, and erected their building upon it. 
 
 But now he is approaching the sere and yellow leaf. The 
 years usually alloted to man, have long been passed, and he 
 announces what was evidently the result of a life's purpose — a 
 plan conceived in a spirit of philanthropy, and which only in- 
 creased in magnitude in proportion as the means and power of 
 the donor increased. Selecting seven trustees from among the 
 distinguished of his fellow-citizens he ceded to them his im- 
 mense property — the accumulations of an unusually success- 
 ful life — for the benefit of his adopted State, and for other 
 noble purposes. To enumerate these purposes were needless. 
 Suffice it to say that the exquisite work of art before us, the 
 granite and marble, the life-like statues and enduring pyramid, 
 the grateful tribute to those he loved, form a part. 
 
 Like our own Girard, the pervading aim or idea which at- 
 tached to him during life, culminated in this act. It was the 
 desire to benefit his kind. And now, having performed his 
 life mission, he gathered the drapery of his couch around him, 
 and patiently awaited the summons to appear before the Eter- 
 nal throne where all men are judged impartially. 
 
 Around his eventful life, let us throw a halo of pleasant 
 memories. He sleeps quietly in his narrow bed by the blue 
 waters of the Pacific. May the flowers which spring so plen- 
 tiful in the Golden State of his adoption, bloom upon his grave, 
 winter and summer, and may we all, in the further perform- 
 ance of our duties, as we dedicate his work, and expose for all 
 time to God's sunshine and storms, this monument to his mem- 
 ory, say as a requiem : 
 
MK. upham's address. 529 
 
 " Farewell ! the early dews that fall 
 
 Upon thy grass-grown hed, 
 Are like the thoughts that now recall 
 
 Thine image of the dead. 
 A blessing hallows thy dark cell — 
 I will not stay to weep — Farewell." 
 
 Mr. Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia, an Argonaut 
 of '49, being introduced by the Chairman, spoke as follows : 
 
 Me. Chaieman, Ladies and Gentlemen: — I appear 
 before you under peculiar' and somewhat embarrassing cir- 
 cumstances. The Hon. John S. Hittell, Historian of " The 
 Society of California Pioneers," selected to represent that 
 Society on this occasion, finds it impossible to be with you to- 
 day, and at the urgent request of the Hon. Peter Dean, Presi- 
 dent of the Society, and of Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secretary 
 of " The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of Califor- 
 nia," of which Society I have the honor to be a member, I 
 have, at a few hours' notice, consented to act as the representa- 
 tive of our parent Society in San Francisco. The following 
 letter will more fully explain the matter : 
 
 The Society op California Pioneees, ] 
 808 Montgomery Street, I 
 
 San Feanoisco, Cal., April 10th, 1878. J 
 Feancis D. Claek, Secretary Pioneers, etc.. New York — 
 Dear Sir : — You are aware that the Lick Monument, at Fred- 
 ericksburg, Pa., is finished, and will be dedicated on the 22d 
 inst., and that the Hon. John S. Hittell, the Historian of this 
 Society, was selected to represent the Pioneers on that occa- 
 sion. To-day Mr. Hittell has informed me that he cannot 
 leave until the 17th inst. It will, therefore, be impossible for 
 him to participate in the dedication ceremonies on the 22d. 
 Under these circumstances, Mr. Dean, our President, has re- 
 quested me to ask you if you will not do something toward 
 having the Pioneers represented on that day. He desires me 
 to ask if there are not some of your members who will take a 
 run over to Fredericksburg and represent the Pioneers and 
 assist in the ceremonies upon that interesting occasion. If 
 
530 JAMES lick's munificence. 
 
 you can do anything in this matter, Mr. Dean -will feel under 
 many obligations, and the Pioneers also. 
 
 Very truly, A. C. Beadfoed, 
 
 Sec'y Society Cal. Pioneers. 
 
 As your orator has so ably and eloquently portrayed the life 
 a;nd services of the noble man whose memory we delight to 
 honor, my remarks will be brief. 
 
 In the year 1819, a young man, in the vigor of manhood, 
 and in whose lexicon there was no such word as fail, left his 
 boyhood's home in this beautiful valley, and the endearing 
 associations of the old hearthstone, to seek employment in one 
 of our large cities. He obtained a situation in a piano manu- 
 factory in Baltimore, and a year later started in the same 
 business for himself in the city of New York, but failing to 
 succeed for want of capital, went soon after to Buenos Ayres, 
 and then to Valparaiso, where he devoted himself to his busi- 
 ness of piano-making for four years. He then visited different 
 places in Peru, remaining in that country eleven years. Mr. 
 Lick arrived in California in the year 1847, with about 
 $30,000, which he invested in real estate in San Francisco and 
 vicinity, and its rapid advance in value, caused by the dis- 
 covery of gold at Sutter's Mill, in that State, in the month of 
 January, 1848, and the large emigration thither, soon made 
 him a second Crcesus. His great wealth did not dry up the 
 fountains of his noble, generous heart, which was ever suscepti- 
 ble to the emotions of sympathy for his fellow-men. 
 
 In the year 1874, he placed his entire property in the hands 
 of seven trustees, to be devoted to public and charitable pur- 
 poses. In the spring of 1875, a year previous to his death, the 
 bequests, aggregating several millions of dollars, were changed 
 in some respects. To the " Academy of Natural Sciences," and 
 to " The Society of California Pioneers," which latter I have 
 the honor to represent, and whose honored President Mr. Lick 
 was at the time of his decease, in the fall of 1876, he bequeathed 
 a one-hundred vara lot, at the corner of Fourth and Market 
 Streets, in the city of San Francisco, and also the residue of 
 his vast estate, to be equally divided between the two Societies 
 
LETTERS EEAD. 531 
 
 after his various legacies liad been paid. For this munificent 
 bequest to " The Society of California Pioneers," and for his 
 other benefactions, we honor his memory, and our children and 
 our children's children shall in after years rise up and call him 
 blessed. Among his many bequests he did not forget the far- 
 off home of his childhood, and the loved ones whose dust was 
 mingling with the soil of the old Keystone State ; and we are 
 assembled on this beautiful April day to unveil and dedicate 
 the sculptured marble, erected at his request to the memory 
 of his devoted mother and father, loving sister and honored 
 grandfather. 
 
 The mortal remains of the great benefactor whose memory 
 we honor to-day, lie mingling with the dust of that far-off land 
 he loved so well, and which is so dear to the heart of every 
 true Californian — the land where 
 
 " The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit, 
 And the breezes blow soft as tones of the lute." 
 
 There, in that beautiful, silent City of the Dead, near the 
 portals of the Golden Gate, with the roar of the waves of the 
 mighty Pacific ever singing his requiem, he shall lie until the 
 final day, when earth and ocean shall give up their dead, and 
 this globe shall dissolve with fervent heat and leave not a 
 rack behind. 
 
 At the conclusion of Mr. Upham's address, the following 
 letters were read by a member of the Committee of Ar- 
 rangements : 
 
 Office of The James Lick Tetjst, 1 
 San Feancisco, April 12th, 1878. j 
 Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, Chairman Committee of Arrange- 
 ments Dedication of Lick Monument, Lebanon, Pa. — Bear 
 Sir : — I am instructed to say that it is a matter of great satis- 
 faction to the Trustees of The James Lick Trust to know that 
 the people of Mr. Lick's old home have shown so much in- 
 terest in the monument that he has erected to the memory of 
 his family, and that they have made such appropriate arrange- 
 ments to honor its dedication. 
 
532 MASONIC CEREMONIES. 
 
 It was hoped that one of the Trustees, at least, might be able 
 to attend the ceremonies, but circumstances have obtained 
 "which prevent all of them that pleasure. 
 
 They have instructed me to express to you, sir, their sincere 
 appreciation of the sentiment which actuates your people in 
 recognizing, through the ceremonies you propose, the honorable 
 distinction deserved by a man who has devoted all of a large 
 fortune to the noble purpose of benefiting his fellow-men. 
 
 I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, yours, 
 
 Heney E. Mathews, 
 Secretary of The James Lick Trust. 
 
 By order of the Trustees of The James Lick Trust. 
 
 Alta Califoenia Office, 
 San Feancisco, April 9th, 1878. 
 Colonel J. P. S. Gobin — Dear Sir r — I regret, on my ac- 
 count as well as that of the Society of California Pioneers, 
 which I was to represent, that circumstances render it impossi- 
 ble for me to reach Lebanon before the 23d inst. 
 
 With respect, John S. Hittell. 
 
 Executive Chambee, "I 
 Haeeisbtjeg, Pa., April 18th, 1878. J 
 Deae Colonel : — ^I regret very sincerely that I am unable 
 to accept your very kind invitation to attend ceremonies at- 
 tending the dedication of monument at Fredericksburg, Leba- 
 non County, on Monday next. 
 
 Yours, very truly, J. F. Haeteanpt. 
 
 Adam Rise^ Eminent Commander, then ordered the 
 Hermit Commandery to form in a hollow square around 
 the monument. Buglers were stationed in the rear of the 
 lines — one each to the North, South, East and West. One 
 Sir Knight was placed on each side of the monument, the 
 covering of the statues being so arranged that at the proper 
 signal — a sound of the trumpet — one pull would unveil 
 each side. The E. C. then announced : 
 
 In pursuance of the duty assumed by Hermit Commandery, 
 No. 24, Knights Templar, of Pennsylvania, and by the au- 
 
MASONIC CEEEMONIES. 533 
 
 thority of the Eight Eminent, the Grand Commander of Penn- 
 sylvania, we have assembled to dedicate this monument with 
 Knightly honors. 
 
 The C. G. commanded — " Present swords." 
 The E. C. asked— "Sir Knight, is it well in the East?" 
 The Sir Knight, John Matthes, stationed on the East, 
 replied : 
 
 " The sunbeams from the eastern sky. 
 Flash from yon blocks exalted high, 
 And on their polished fronts proclaim, 
 Our worthy brother's widespread fame." 
 
 E. C— " Sir Knight, is it well in the West?" 
 
 The Sir Knight, Simon G. Boltz, stationed on the West, 
 
 replied : 
 
 " The chastened sun adown the West, 
 Speaks the same voice and sinks to rest ; 
 No sad defect, no flaw to shame 
 Our worthy brother's lofty fame.'' 
 
 E. C— " Sir Knight, is it well in the South ?" 
 
 The Sir Knight, C. H. Shank, stationed on the South, 
 
 replied : 
 
 " Glowing beneath the fervid noon, 
 Yon granite dares the southern sun ; 
 Yet tells that wall of fervid flame. 
 Our worthy brother's honest fame." 
 
 E. C— Sir Knight, is it well in the North ?" 
 
 The Sir Knight, P. L. Zimmerman, stationed on the North, 
 
 replied : 
 
 " Perfect in line, exact in square, 
 The works of all our craftsmen are ; 
 They will to coming time proclaim 
 Our brother's worthy, well-earned fame." 
 
 E. C. — " Sir Knights, our Warder will make proclamation." 
 
 Warder, C. H. Killinger, announced : " I am directed to 
 
 proclaim, and do proclaim, that the monument of our deceased 
 
 brother, James Lick, is now dedicated to the uses designed, 
 
 and to the memory of those whose names are inscribed thereon. 
 
534 DEDICATOBY PEAYEE. 
 
 This proclamation I make to the East, to the West, to the 
 South, aud to the North. Due notice being given, let all 
 govern themselves accordingly." 
 
 When the Warder pronounced the word East, the bugler 
 on the eastern side gave one blast of his trumpet, and the 
 Knight uncovered that side of the monument. When the 
 word West was pronounced by the Warder, the bugler on 
 the western side gave two blasts of his trumpet, and the 
 Knight stationed there uncovered that side of the monu- 
 ment. Three blasts of the trumpet from the bugler sta- 
 tioned on the southern side was the signal to uncover that 
 portion of the monument. As the word North was pro- 
 claimed by the Warder, a general salute of all the buglers 
 was the signal for uncovering the northern side and the 
 statue of the Goddess of Liberty on top of the monument. 
 
 C. G.— " Carry swords." 
 
 E. C. — " Uncover, Sir Knights. Our Prelate, will you lead 
 in our devotions ?" 
 
 PRELATE W. G. WARD's DEDICATORY PRAYER. 
 
 O Thou Supreme Architect of the Universe, in Thy name 
 have we assembled upon this day, aud we lift up our hands 
 and hearts unto Thee, our Creator and Father. Deign to 
 look upon us, the unworthy suppliants of Thy favor. Thou 
 hast taught us to look unto Thee in all the undertakings of 
 life; to count upon Thy help in every laudable enterprise. 
 We invoke Thy blessing upon the work of our hands this day. 
 
 O Thou God of our Fathers, remember us as Knights Tem- 
 plar, who have been called to the performance of the important 
 duties of unveiling this monument and dedicating it to the 
 uses for which it is designed. May it not only be a monument 
 to perpetuate the memories of those whose names are inscribed 
 thereon, and whose bones lie mouldering under the clod in the 
 valley ; but may it be an immutable memorial to remind every 
 visitor to this sacred spot, that 
 
DOXOLOGY AND BENEDICTION. 535 
 
 " Honor and fame from no condition rise, 
 Act well your part, there all your honor lies." 
 
 As Templars, may we here learn a lesson and from it receive 
 "Wisdom from on high in all our doings. Strength of mind in 
 all our difficulties, and the Beauty of harmony and holiness in 
 all our communications and work. Let Faith be the founda- 
 tion of our Hope, and Charity the fruit of our obedience to 
 Thy revealed will. As we display the Standard of ihe Cross, 
 may we follow the symbolic banner, whose inscription, "In 
 hoe signo vinees," should animate us all to wield our swords 
 manfully in the cause in which we have enlisted. 
 
 Grant, Heavenly Father, that we may so conduct ourselves 
 during our earthly pilgrimage, that at its close we may be 
 found worthy, through the merits of Him who has gone before 
 us, to enter that Asylum of rest which He has prepared for all 
 those who put their trust in Him. 
 
 And unto Thee, the only living and true God, we will 
 ascribe power, and majesty, and dominion, now and evermore. 
 Amen and amen. 
 
 E. C— " Cover." 
 Music—" Old Hundred." 
 
 The following benediction, was then pronounced by the 
 Rev. Daniel Washburn, Grand Prelate of Pennsylvania : 
 
 Praise God from whom all blessings flow. 
 Praise Him all creatures here below. 
 Praise him above, angelic host. 
 Praise Father, Son and Holy Ghost. 
 
 The Lord bless us and keep us ; the Lord mercifully with 
 His favor look upon us and be gracious unto us ; the Lord lift 
 up His countenance upon us, and give us peace both now and 
 evermore. * 
 
 The procession again formed, marched into town and 
 was dismissed in Market Square, at half-past three o'clock, 
 P.M. 
 
 Among the prominent persons present were ex-Senator 
 
536 PEOMINENT PEESONS PRESENT. 
 
 Simon Cameron, State Superintendent Wickersham, G. 
 Dawson Coleman, Senator Meily, William Calder, of Plar- 
 risburg, Henry S. Eckert, of Reading, Grand Recorder C. 
 E. Meyer and Grand Treasurer M. Richards Muckl6, K. 
 T., of Philadelphia. 
 
 Through the kindness of Mr. Jonathan See, of Phila- 
 delphia, who invited me to occupy a part of his seat in a 
 crowded vehicle, I was enabled to reach Jonestown in time 
 to take the 4.40 P. M. train for Philadelphia, where I 
 arrived at nine o'clock same evening, wayworn and weary. 
 
 In conclusion, I desire to return thanks to the following 
 gentlemen for courtesies extended to me during my brief 
 visit to Fredericksburg : Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, Grand 
 Prelate Daniel "VYashburn, Dr. A. "W. Shultz, Levi Shif- 
 fler, Hon. F. M. Bachman, George Brutzman, Simon and 
 John Deshj and several Sir Knights whose names I cannot 
 call to mind. 
 
 Au revoir, 
 
 Samuel C. Upham, 
 
VISIT OF THE "KING'S OEPHAN"* TO CALI- 
 FORNIA IN THE YEAR 1843. 
 
 Upper California — Its climate, agricultural and mineral resources — 
 Gold and silver discovered in 1843 — Fort and port of San Fran- 
 cisco — Military barracks of San Francisco — An Indian feast — So- 
 noma — Colonel Vallejo — ^Yerba Buena — New Helvetia — Captain 
 Suiter — Eussian fort at Bodega — Messrs. Sinclair and Grymes. 
 
 The following sketch, alluded to on page 470, has been 
 compiled from the manuscript of the "King's Orphan," 
 kindly placed in the hands of the author by Colonel T. B. 
 Thorpe.f 
 
 Upper California is geographically situated west of the 
 United States, beyond the Rocky and other mountain 
 
 * The " Orphan's " name was Mafs rr Mass. 
 
 f Cjlonel Thomas Bangs Thorpe, better known to the literary world 
 as "Tom Owen the Bee Hunter, ' died in New York city on the morn- 
 ing of September 20th, 1878, aged sixty-three years. Colonel Thorpe 
 was in several respects a remarkable man. In addition to his fine lite- 
 rary attainments, he was an amateur naturalist and an artist in oil colors 
 of no mean ability. His chef-d' ceumi, "Kiagara Falls," was sold in 
 London for §5,000. He was an able journalist as well as a fluent and 
 eloquent speaker. During tlie Mexican war. Colonel Thorpe was first 
 attached to the staff of General Worth, and afterward appointed aid to 
 General Zachary Taylor. He is said to have been the first correspondent 
 who wrote his descriptions from the battle-field, and his letters published 
 in a New Orleans journal added much to the fame of " Old Hough and 
 Heady," a soubriquet given to hira by the Colonel. He was also the 
 auth ^r of tlie laconic order attributed to Old Zach — "A little more grape, 
 Captain Bragg!" Colonel Thorpe, at the time of his death, held a 
 position in the Law Division of the New York Custom-house. Although 
 not a member of "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of 
 California," he was always a welcome guest at their re-unions, and the 
 decease of the " old man eloquent" has caused a void in their circle 
 which can never be filled. A delegation of the California Pioneers at- 
 tended his funeral, and accompanied his remains to their last earthly 
 resting-place — Greenwood Cemetery. Peace to his manes ! 
 
 " None knew him but to love him — 
 None named him but to praise." 
 
 (537) 
 
638 PEECIOTJS METALS ABUNDANT, 
 
 ranges, between the thirty-second and forty-second degrees 
 of north latitude ; bounded on the south by Lower Cali- 
 fornia, on the north by Indian territories and Oregon, and 
 on the west by the Pacific Ocean. The extent of the 
 country is 600 miles from north to south, and about 300 
 miles from east to west, embracing an area of about 
 200,000 square miles, being nearly twice as large as Great 
 Britain and as large as the New England and Middle 
 States. 
 
 The Cordilleras are of extraordinary elevation, there 
 being peaks among them from ten to twenty thousand feet 
 above the level of the sea, from which they are seen at an 
 immense distance. The higher mountains are almost des- 
 titute of vegetation, except stunted trees and shrubs. In 
 the valleys is found the richest soil, varying from a rich 
 alluvial to a deep black vegetable loam, upon a strata of 
 sand, gravel, clay and trap-rock. The hills are generally 
 of a more loose and gravelly nature than the mountains, 
 while some are composed entirely of basalt, slate and 
 marble. The Californias are rich in minerals. Gold, 
 silver, lead, oxide of iron, manganese and copper ore are 
 met with throughout the country, the precious metals being 
 the most abundant. 
 
 Upper California is naturally divided into two great 
 sections, the cultivated and the wild country. The former 
 may be said to be that portion which lies along the Pacific, 
 already populated to a considerable extent. The latter, or 
 the Indian country, part of which is called the Tulares or 
 marshy plains, intersected by lakes and swamps, occupying 
 a valley of 500 miles in extent, running north and south. 
 The climate is variable, as is that of all mountainous 
 countries, but the meau temperature of the country in the 
 spring is 66° ; summer, 70° ; autumn, 67°, and winter, 61°. 
 Warmest month, 74° ; coldest, 48° Fahrenheit. 
 
 The productions of the country are timber of the finest 
 quality and all fruits and grains peculiar to the tropical 
 
o 
 > 
 
 O 
 
 J J' 
 
 
 niiSi^ilM 
 
 
PIKST VISIT TO SAN FEANCISCO. 541 
 
 and temperate zones ; among whicli are apples, pears, 
 peaches, oranges, lemons, figs, plums, cherries, grapes and 
 almost every tropical fruit, in the southern portion of the 
 country. Wheat, rye, oats, barley, beans, peas, hemp, flax, 
 tobacco, coffee, corn, Irish potatoes and sugar-cane. Vege- 
 tables of all kinds can be raised in the greatest abundance, 
 frequently two or three crops a year. Wormwood and 
 wild mustard abound as weeds. Oats grow wild, and the 
 cultivated grow to an enormous height. Wheat crops, 
 sown in the fall, early the following year have yielded one 
 hundred and fourteen bushels to the acre. At the Mission 
 of St. Joseph it was ascertained that the yield was one hun^ 
 dred and twenty bushels to the acre, and the spontaneous crop, 
 the following year was sixty bushels to the acre. The wheat 
 of Taos has six distinct heads. Clover and the grasses are 
 extraordinarily fine and productive. Indian flax grows 
 wild all over the country. Horses, cattle, sheep and hogs 
 thrive well, and are possessed in greater or less quantities 
 by all the inhabitants, and are tended by herdsmen^ 
 
 An opportunity occurring, I embarked on board a small 
 trading schooner to pay a visit to the Mission of San 
 Francisco, on the most splendid bay in all California, and 
 surrounded by the richest country. A pleasant run of two 
 days [from Monterey], brought me to the mouth of the 
 bay, which is peculiar, and will always attract attention, 
 both for its easy adaptation to defense at little cost and for 
 its very picturesque appearance. The entrance to the bay 
 is excellent, being fully a half mile wide. On the south 
 side, rises a high, rocky point, on the top of which are 
 the ruins of an old fort. On the north side, is a high and 
 bold coast, at the foot of which are some perforated sand- 
 stone rocks, that looked precisely as would the remnants of 
 castles of which remained only their porticoes and archways. 
 After you pass well into the bay, you meet with various 
 email islands, or round bold rocks, one of which is known 
 31 
 
542 THE BAY AND POET. 
 
 as Bird's Island, from the vast quantities of the feathered 
 tribe that make a home upon it. This island is most ad- 
 mirably calculated for a light-house, or a fort, as it per- 
 fectly commands the harbor, and could not have been 
 better situated for the purposes named had it been placed 
 there by a skillful engineer. Such is the entrance to San 
 Francisco Bay, the best one on the Pacific coast, and not 
 surpassed for beauty of surrounding country, for ease of 
 defense, or safety of shipping at anchor, by any in the 
 world. 
 
 The port of San Francisco presents a very pleasant ap- 
 pearance. It has a bold shore, and high hills for a back- 
 ground. The main entrance to the bay, viewed from the 
 ruins of the fort, looking out toward the sea, is most 
 beautiful, bounded as it is on both sides by bold rocks, 
 while its high precipice on which you stand, brings the 
 waves of the ocean below you, and gives to shipping 
 the appearance of a well-arranged panorama. The Mis- 
 sion of San Francisco, as is generally the custom of the 
 country, is situated in the interior, and, after leaving the 
 schooner, I journeyed to it by land. At this mission I 
 .became acquainted with Colonel Yall6jo, whose relatives I 
 met with in Monterey. He is the commander on the 
 frontier, and resides at Sonoma, on the north side of the 
 bay. While at this place, the venerable Father Alviso, 
 whose restoration to health, under my professional skill, had 
 been so much credit to my reputation, visited me, having 
 ridden from Santa Clara for that purpose, a distance of 
 42 miles. Having made arrangements favorable to 
 the visiting of the more northern portions of the bay of 
 San Francisco, I declined Father Alviso's pressing invita- 
 tion to visit Santa Clara for the time being, and promised 
 to accept of his hospitality at some future period. 
 
 I sailed, with most beautiful weather, up the magnificent 
 bay, and toward evening entered a curious stream called 
 the Devil's Creek; no doubt so named because, its mouth 
 
A PIEE AMID THE TULE. 545 
 
 being lost in tlie low marsh, its channel is difficult to dis- 
 cover. A gentleman having a ranch on this creek, liad 
 contracted with the owners of the schooner to deliver some 
 lime, and he was on shore to show us the proper place to 
 enter the creek. The Indians who formed the crew of the 
 schooner, knew nothing about it, nor did they perceive a 
 ranchman who was perched on a high hill in the back- 
 ground, endeavoring also to point out the way. Unfor- 
 tunately, the undergrowth of portions of the country was 
 on fire, and a dense smoke clouded the atmosphere in some 
 directions. After much delay and confusion, the ranch- 
 man came on board the schooner to act as pilot, and 
 brought us safely up a winding but beautiful creek. We 
 were often so near to the land that the cattle, deer and 
 antelopes could be seen flying before the devouring element. 
 The flames finally reached the tuU rushes of the marshy 
 places, and ran along the sides of the creek, making our 
 passage dangerous and awful to look at, as we frequently 
 appeared to be enveloped in the flames and in dense 
 columns of steam and smoke. A favorable wind hurried 
 us through this appropriately-named creek, or the schooner 
 and its inmates might have been consumed. It must have 
 presented an extraordinary spectacle, as our little schooner 
 disappeared in a sheet of fire, and then emerged beyond it 
 unharmed by the ordeal ; a scene entirely harmonious with 
 the superstitious feelings that surrounded the creek and the 
 traditions that are reported of Mount Diablo to which 
 it leads, -i- 
 
 The schooner came to anchor in a beautiful bend in the 
 creek, and as night set in the fire exhibited one of the most 
 singular sights I ever witnessed. The larger brush, which 
 had now become ignited, sent up long tongues of forked 
 flames behind the green canopy of willows and the moving 
 branches of the trees. The efiect was as if myriads of 
 living creatures were struggling in the flames, and the illu- 
 sion was horribly carried out by the howling of wolves, and 
 
546 MOIOTT DIABLO. 
 
 bears, and other wild animals that resounded in the con- 
 fusion of the crackling and falling trees. 
 
 To occupy the time consumed by the delay of loading 
 the schooner, I went up to the original Mount Diablo in 
 search of fresh water. I found this celebrated place a small 
 eminence, overgrown with beautiful willows and other 
 trees, that were nourished by a gurgling stream of water 
 that flowed at their roots. It is said that the persons who 
 first discovered this place camped by the running water, 
 and at nightfall they were saluted by hideous noises and 
 lamentations, mingled with frightful groans, and the place 
 thus got a bad name. One family, possessed of more than 
 common intelligence, many years ago, built a house, now 
 in ruins, on this beautiful eminence, and stocked the sur- 
 rounding country with cattle. 
 
 From policy, no doubt, this family kept up the " hob- 
 gobblin " stories and circulated new ones, and they were 
 thereby enabled to hold sole possession of the surrounding 
 country. At length, in an incursion of a hostile tribe of 
 Indians from the mountains, this family was murdered, 
 their settlement robbed of its wealth, the Indians escaping 
 without detection. This atrocity confirmed the stories so 
 much circulated about it, and as a consequence the country, 
 until quite recently, has been entirely deserted. 
 
 To extend my excursions, I procured an easy-riding 
 horse, and after having examined the limekilns, I rambled 
 about the country quite alone, and, as is customary with 
 me, searching for minerals and rare plants, examining the 
 direction of the hills and their geological formations. In 
 the course of my ride I ascended to a considerable dis- 
 tance up the side of the mountain, known by the Califor- 
 nians and Indians as Mount de Barbones. This mountain, 
 although not more than sixteen hundred feet above the 
 level of the sea, is so situated in regard to the surrounding 
 country, that it can be seen further at sea than those of 
 much higher elevation. 
 
INDIAN FIEE SIGNALS. 547 
 
 While climbing the steep sides of this mountain, the sun 
 at times almost disappeared amongst the thick smoke, yet 
 tinged the distant forest and cliffe with a most singular 
 light. My hopes of obtaining any specimens for my herba- 
 rium were vain, as all the delicate plants that had escaped 
 the fire were destroyed for my use by the heated air and 
 smoke. I therefore paid more particular attention to the 
 geological character of the mountain. 
 
 De Barbones is similar to all mountains of this country, 
 being composed of soft sand-stone, quartz, with occasional 
 exhibitions of lime-stone and porphyry, with the evidences 
 of such minerals as manganese, oxide of iron and lead ore. 
 But for the smoke I should have been able to see, while 
 up on the mountain, the celebrated rocks, or, as the Cana- 
 dian hunters term them, the Butes, and many other moun- 
 tain ranges. 
 
 The continued repetition of these fires does great injury 
 to the country. The undergrowth that springs up in the 
 " burns " is always inferior to that growing where no fire 
 has injured the soil. Very often the ground becomes 
 loose, the fire penetrating deeply into it, following the 
 roots ; then sets in the dry season, the winds blow oif the 
 soil and leave an arid desert where before was luxurious 
 vegetation. The causes of these fires are various. Some- 
 times they are accidental, sometimes purposely made to 
 destroy the insects that infest the undergrowth ; but, most 
 often they are the work of the Indians, who gather grass- 
 hoppers, a favorite food, by setting fire to the grass which 
 they inhabit. They also kindle fires to place a barrier be- 
 tween themselves and the whites. The Indians, too, use 
 fires for the purpose of conveying information, and they 
 may be said to form the telegraphic system of the red man. 
 They are ingenious in the manner of forming their signals. 
 A hole is dug in the ground, much wider at the bottom 
 than at the top ; this hole is filled with combustibles and 
 set on fire; once well ignited, the hole is nearly closed 
 
548 AS INDIAN FEEDING DEBAUCH. 
 
 at the opening. By this means the smoke rises to a con- 
 siderable height in a column, and thus information is 
 conveyed to different tribes of the approach of an enemy 
 or friend, or whether they are coming in large or small 
 bodies. 
 
 It "Was well-nigh sundown when I returned to the 
 schooner, where I found the Indians busily engaged in 
 skinning a yearling heifer, presented to them by the owner 
 of the limekilns. The captain of the schooner had been 
 well provided with game, among which I noticed the body 
 of a large elk. The Indians that formed the crew of the 
 schooner, having been rather stinted in food for a day or 
 two, determined on a feast, as a recompense for their pre- 
 vious fasting. They presented on the occasion a spectacle 
 I had never before witnessed of disgusting sensual indul- 
 gence, the effect of which on their conduct struck me as 
 being exceedingly strange. The meat of the heifer, most 
 rudely cooked, was eaten in a voracious manner. After 
 gorging themselves they would lie down and sleep for a 
 while, and get up and eat again. They repeated this glut- 
 tony until they actually lost their senses, and presented in 
 their conduct all the phenomena peculiar to an over-indul- 
 gence in spirituous liquors. They cried and laughed by 
 turns, rolled upon the ground, dozed and then sprang up 
 in a state of delirium. The following morning, they were 
 all wretchedly sick, and had the expression peculiar to 
 drunken men recovering their reason after a debauch. 
 
 I should, perhaps, mention that the land on the northern 
 side of the Devil's Creek is lower than is elsewhere to be 
 seen, and is principally settled by California Creoles, many 
 of whom are owners of immense herds of cattle. The soil 
 is remarkably fruitful, suffering less than most other places 
 from the drought, in consequence of its being flat, and 
 through it flow many small rivulets, that come down from 
 the hills, communicating with handsome bayous that, in 
 every direction, intersect the ranches, thus affording easy 
 
AN INTELLIGENT, THKIFTY INDIAN. 649 
 
 transportation of their produce to the bay for sale or ex- 
 portation. 
 
 The schooner, after having been loaded, was navigated 
 with great labor out of the creek, against a head-wind, but 
 the moment we reached the bay the wind became favora- 
 ble for our voyage, and we dashed over the bounding 
 waves most merrily. It was a short run across the Bay of 
 San Pablo, the northern arm of San Francisco Bay, and 
 much resembling a lake. The schooner passed close to the 
 western shore, through a narrow strait made by small 
 islands, continuing on until it dropped anchor in the vi- 
 cinity of Sonoma, the residence of Colonel Vallejo, the 
 commandant of the frontier. Sonoma is situated on a 
 creek, three miles from its entrance into the bay. In this 
 neighborhood are several settlements. San Gabriel, near 
 the bay, is an old mission, at present nearly destroyed. 
 The administrator of the place is a Mr. Murphy, formerly 
 of Peru. He has accumulated by his industry a small 
 property, consisting of horses and cattle. I saw, as I 
 passed on from San Gabriel, beautiful bottom-land with 
 clumps of trees, mostly oak. An Indian chief is settled 
 here, assisted by some of his tribe. His ranch is well laid 
 out, aud his house quite comfortable. This chief betrays 
 much intelligence and has a good character. He was for- 
 merly, with those about him, attached to the " ValMjo 
 ranch." Fine deep creeks everywhere thread the country 
 here, resembling in their appearance natural canals. They 
 are invaluable to the agriculturist; for independent of the 
 facilities of transportation, they seem to irrigate the land 
 in the dry season of summer. The ranch of Colonel Val- 
 l6jo is situated upon an eminence ; is possessed of rich land,, 
 and portions of it are under fair cultivation. Having 
 passed this estate, I came to the military station of Sonoma 
 and the residence of Colonel Vallejo. 
 
 Sonoma, originally called St. Solona, was by its founders, 
 laid out with great taste, and had the enterprise of the 
 
550 A MILL IDLE FOE 'WAN'T OF A YANKEE. 
 
 people built it up according to the first intent, it would have 
 been one of the handsomest places in California. The 
 military barracks extend along under the high hills, run- 
 ning parallel with them, and in front is a magnificent 
 Plaza for military parades, or place of resort and recrea- 
 tion for the citizens. At the time of my arrival, a flag was 
 flying at the stafi^, and a few ragamufiin soldiers were wan- 
 dering about after the heels of a horse carrying the ofiicer, 
 who had just returned from a successful military expedi- 
 tion, to which we will allude again. 
 
 This station has a garrison nominally consisting of one 
 hundred and fifty men, rank and file, but never mustered 
 more than thirty, including all the hangers-on and loafers 
 generally, whose professed business it is to ravage the coun- 
 try to keep the Indians in check. Attached to the garri- 
 son is a friar who is dignified with the title of chaplain. 
 Enough of agricultural enterprise is exhibited about Sono- 
 ma to show the capacity of the rich soil if it were in the 
 hands of an industrious population. Fruit was growing 
 finely, such as it was; wheat and corn gave evidence of an 
 abundant yield, though badly planted and tended, in every 
 particular. The stock looked better than any I had seen, 
 the horses being particularly fine. In the vicinity of So- 
 noma are hot springs, remarkably effective in curing rheu- 
 matic complaints. A water-mill for grinding wheat was 
 standing on the creek that runs near the station, but the 
 ignorant Indian who had it in charge could not manage the 
 machinery, simple as it was, and there was not a Yankee 
 about who could attend to it ; so the mill stood still and 
 the people satisfied themselves with eating frijoles and 
 meat, spending more time in one day in beating corn for 
 tortillas, when they indulged in luxuries, than would have 
 been necessary to have fixed the machinery of the mill. 
 
 The commandant of Sonoma, at the time of my arrival, 
 was sick and needed medical attendance. He bears the 
 character of a haughty mau, being full of the Spaniard; 
 
A "SUCCESSFUI/ EXPEDITION." 551 
 
 but I found him affable and polite. I was struck with the 
 military reputation of this officer, it being so much like all 
 those of Mexico holding distant commands. The story 
 always is, that the commandant does not faithfully apply 
 the revenues of the government, but appropriates them to 
 his own use. The moral is, that no confidence exists among 
 the rulers themselves, and no character can be above sus- 
 picion. There were very many things at Sonoma to destroy 
 the pleasure of my visit, as they gave me a train of thoughts 
 relative to the lawlessness of the people and the miserable 
 government under which they live. As I have before 
 stated, on my entrance to the Plaza in front of the bar- 
 racks of this station, I beheld a military company just re- 
 turning from what was termed a "successful expedition," 
 and near by were the prisoners and the happy conquerors. 
 This expedition was commanded by the brother of Colonel 
 Vall6jo and was so characteristic of similar ones in Califor- 
 nia that I give its particulars. 
 
 A small tribe of Indians, inhabiting an island in the 
 northern part of the Bay of San Francisco, was reported to 
 have threatened the settlers in their neighborhood that 
 they would steal some of their cattle as payment for con- 
 tributions denied them, for occupying their lands. Upon 
 this shallow pretext. Colonel Vallljo permitted his brother, 
 who is a blood-thirsty man, to take the " soldiers " and a 
 number of Indians and march against these poor people, who 
 had made threats that they were going to steal cattle from 
 people indebted to them for land. Advantage was taken 
 when the Indian men were away from home fishing and 
 gathering roots for subsistence. These armed men were 
 very brave when they found no resistance but from old 
 men, women and children, who were unconscious of any 
 danger until an indiscriminate massacre commenced that 
 spared nothing but the women for prisoners. Not eon- 
 tented with this barbarous shedding of blood, a poor negro 
 blacksmith, a deserter from the United States sloop of war 
 
552 JUST, BUT SEVERE IKONY. 
 
 Oyane, Avas found hidden away on this island, whoni the 
 commander had brought out, pompously proclaimed an 
 enemy to Mexico, and then shot in the back, and only 
 killed after repeated discharges of fire-arms. Having thus 
 accomplished their work, the expedition made a hasty re- 
 treat, fearing the Indians would gather en masse and de- 
 stroy it, which would have been the case. 
 
 These barbarous incursions into the Indian territory are 
 often made from mere wantonness, or result from the In- 
 dians being cheated out of their lands or the reward of 
 their labor. As a consequence, they retaliate by stealing 
 cattle ; never, as far as I could learu, by committing mur- 
 der. Advantage is taken of these misunderstandings by 
 the Californians, who, joining with the military force, scour 
 the country, committing every cruelty that can be imagined. 
 By a wise provision of the Mexican government, as if to 
 make barbarousness a subject of reward, the oiRcers receive 
 as remuneration for heading these expeditions the prisoners 
 that fall into their hands; so, whenever a ranch requires 
 laborers, you hear of some Indian outrage, followed by 
 the taking of prisoners by the Californians. 
 
 The prisoners I saw at Sonoma were mostly females and 
 young children. They were huddled together like beasts, 
 nearly naked, and seemed to create no sympathy. Some 
 were good-looking. They maintained a sullen expression, 
 and bore up under their misfortunes with a stoicism pecu- 
 liar to the aboriginal inhabitants of this continent. The 
 Indians belonging to Sonoma station, that had accompa- 
 nied the expedition, seemed to have revived within them, 
 by the shedding of blood, all the bad traits of their savage 
 natm'e. They celebrated, through the whole night of my 
 arrival, their victory with dances and songs. They painted 
 their bodies coarsely, and showed less variety and spirit in 
 all they did than you will meet with among the real savages, 
 who have not, like most of the California Indians, been, by 
 years of degradation, deprived of their original character. 
 
A VISIT TO NEW HELVETIA. 655 
 
 After a visit of some days at Sonoma, visiting most of 
 the places in the vicinity situated on the beautiful bay, I 
 left for Yerba Buena, a small and growing town on the 
 south-west side of San Francisco Bay, and near the tt)wa of 
 that name. The harbor offers great facilities for the un- 
 loading of vessels of all descriptions ; but, like many other 
 places bordering on the sea, in California, it suffers from 
 want of good water, which cannot be obtained — the wells 
 being rather brackish. Vessels, therefore, are obliged to 
 cross the bay for a supply of wholesome water. As this 
 country becomes more thickly settled, and facilities are 
 created for traveling, there will be still another port opened 
 further south than Yerba Buena, which will no doubt be- 
 come of great importance as a place of business. I found 
 three " whalers " in the bay at Yerba Buena, and occupied 
 my time most pleasantly in conversation with their officers 
 — two of them being American vessels. 
 
 It was with great pleasure I witnessed the preparations 
 which, when completed, would, without further delay, per- 
 mit me to sail for New Helvetia, the most interesting por- 
 tion of California, and destined to become thickly populated 
 with American residents. 
 
 I shall never forget the morning following my departure 
 for New Helvetia. A landscape of beauty burst upon my 
 view, such as I never before witnessed. A view contain- 
 ing every soft and delicate feature, yet bounded by the 
 sublimest exhibitions of nature. The mouth of the San 
 Joaquin opened to my view on the south, presenting a far 
 reach inland, that grew dim by the distance. Before me 
 was the Sacramento; a rich green canopy was suspended 
 from the noble trees that lined its borders, casting deep 
 shades that seem to invite the wanderer to its hospitable 
 shores. It was Sabbath morning, and I thought I never 
 saw more fit temples for praise and worship than every- 
 where presented themselves. The green grass came down 
 
556 CAPTAIN STJTTEK. 
 
 in graceful descent to the water's edge, and groups of 
 splendid oaks, as if of gorgeous parks, were scattered about 
 in ricli profusion. The crystal dew-drops glistened upon 
 the leaves, and a thousand feathered songsters that flitted 
 about appeared to join in the universal hymn of praise. 
 
 The day was consumed in our passage up the river, 
 nothing occurring to break the pleasant thoughts the scenery 
 around suggested. Occasionally a deer would betray 
 itself among the tangled vines that hung in profusion 
 from the larger trees ; or cattle, almost as wild as the deer, 
 would rush along with heavy tread, crushing the under- 
 growth making it sound singularly loud. No signs of 
 civilization were to be seen, and a deserted hut made the 
 landscape look more quiet, perhaps, than it would other- 
 wise have done. I arrived in the evening at the JEmbar- 
 cadero, or port of New Helvetia, the schooner coming to 
 anchor in a fleet of smaller craft. Here were a few huts 
 situated upon elevated ground, nestling beneath the pro- 
 tection of lofty sycamore and oaks. The settlement of 
 Captain Sutter is nearly three miles from the landing-place, 
 the road leading over a beautiful country, constantly rising 
 as you leave the Sacramento. 
 
 Captain Sutter, who is the most enterprising citizen of 
 California, and who is destined to play a prominent part in 
 the future history of the country, is a native of Switzerland, 
 and was at one time an officer in the Royal Guards of 
 France. By making friends, from his enterprising char- 
 acter and by extensive traveling over the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, North Mexico and the Sandwich Islands, he was 
 enabled to commence a farming establishment on the 
 Sacramento on a large scale. 
 
 Captain Sutter obtained a grant from the Mexican gov- 
 ernment of a large tract of land on the Sacramento, on 
 condition that he would keep the Indians in cheek and 
 punish them if they interfered with the settlement. He 
 displayed wonderful energy of character, and came so un- 
 
c 
 
 -J 
 
 o 
 
suttee's poet, 559 
 
 expectedly on his enemies, that they soon became con- 
 vinced that they all would be destroyed if they did not 
 remain at peace with the white inhabitants. Captain Sut- 
 ter acted with great judgment in securing the good- will of 
 the tribes immediately about him, and thus managed to 
 form them into a protection against his more distant 
 enemies. All prisoners taken in war were brought to his 
 establishment and set to work, thereby increasing his force 
 and modifying the cruelties of war. 
 
 To carry out his extensive plans. Captain Sutter pur- 
 chased the movable property of the abandoned Russian 
 Mission of Ross at Bodega, agreeing to pay for it in a 
 certain number of years in agricultural products. He 
 then, with great difficulty, managed to make laborers out 
 of the Indians, paying them fair prices in beads and 
 blankets, and by these Indians has been performed the 
 greater part of his agricultural labor. 
 
 Captain Sutter's establishment has more the appear- 
 ance of a fort than a farming establishment. It is j)ro- 
 tected by a wall, ten feet high, made of adobes, or 
 sun-dried bricks, having a turret with embrasures and loop- 
 holes for fire-arms. Twenty-four pieces of cannon of 
 different sizes, can be brought to defend the walls. Against 
 the walls, on the inside of the fort, are erected the store- 
 houses of the establishment, also a distillery to make 
 spirits from the wheat and wild grapes, together with shops 
 for coopers, blacksmiths, carpenters, saddlers, granaries, 
 and huts for the laborers. At the gate-way is always sta- 
 tioned a servant, armed as a sentinel. I arrived at the 
 establishment early in the morning, just as the people were 
 being assembled for labor by the discordant notes of a 
 Mexican drum. I found Captain Sutter busily employed 
 in distributing orders for the day. He received me with 
 great hospitality, and made me feel on the instant perfectly 
 at home under his roof. The magical sounds of the drum 
 had gathered together several hundred Indians, who 
 
560 AN EXCELLENT BREAKFAST. 
 
 flocked to their morning meal preparatory to the labors of 
 the day — reaping wheat. The morning meal over, they 
 filed off to the field in a Idnd of military order, armed 
 ■with a sickle and hook. 
 
 Breakfast was by this time announced for the family, 
 which was served up in an out-house adjoining the kitchen. 
 The breakfast consisted of wholesome corn-bread, eggs, 
 ham, an excellent piece of venison and coffee. In the rear 
 of the fort is a large pond, the borders of which are planted 
 with willows and other trees, a most valuable acquisition as 
 well as ornament. This pond furnishes water for the neces- 
 sary wants of domestic use, and for irrigating the garden. 
 Owing to the drought, the vegetables as well as the wheat 
 had suffered ; the latter proving almost a failure. The 
 want of rain is the greatest evil that befalls the country. 
 In the front of the fort, there are inclosures for horses and 
 cattle, and places to deposit corn and wheat. The manner 
 of threshing which I witnessed was conducted on the most 
 patriarchal plan, the grain being strewn upon the floor, and 
 then trodden out by horses or cattle, which causes it to be 
 much broken and mixed with the earth, and almost impos- 
 sible to clean. 
 
 The raising of wheat, corn, horses and cattle, constitutes 
 the principal business of Captain Sutter ; but he has realized 
 considerable income from the salmon fisheries of the rivers ; 
 the fish being unequaled in flavor and found in the greatest 
 abundance. He also organized extensive hunting and 
 trapping expeditions for the skins of the beaver, otter, elk, 
 deer and antelope, but in this he was greatly interfered 
 with by the Hudson Bay Company, who sent their hunters 
 upon his grounds. He complained to the proper authori- 
 ties, but they paid no attention whatever to the matter. 
 His enemies, not content with thus injuring him, informed 
 the suspicious Mexican government that Captain Sutter 
 was concocting revolutionary plans, and that he encouraged 
 deserters and other disorderly people to live at his settle- 
 
ME. SINCI/AIE AND ME. GEYMES. 661 
 
 ment. Captain Sutter replied to these charges by stating, 
 that he had received the grant to his lands on condition 
 that he would obtain settlers, the principal portion of which 
 he expected from Europe. To make amends, he had en- 
 couraged all the stragglers of the country to flock to his 
 central position, and they being principally unmarried men, 
 and some rather lawless spirits from the mountains, they 
 soon formed a very independent set of men, and were quite 
 competent to defend themselves. 
 
 The government at Monterey was not satisfied with 
 Captain Sutter's explanations. Urged on by envious 
 neighbors, it was prompted to send to Captain Sutter a 
 committee of investigation. The Captain was so enraged 
 at the idea of such a thing that he treated the committee 
 with great contempt, and said he could defend himself 
 against any force or means that might be employed against 
 him. Whereupon the government at Monterey threatened 
 to send a force against him, but thought better of the 
 matter when they found out the character of the men Cap- 
 tain Sutter had about him, and of the Russian armament 
 he had mounted on the walls of his fort ; but annoyed him 
 with legal suits, and after a great deal of difficulty he was 
 acquitted of any treasonable design against the government. 
 
 The Hudson Bay Company's hunters having destroyed 
 his trade in furs, and thus disappointed him in his income, 
 he retaliated upon them by erecting a large distillery, with 
 the product of which he secretly purchased from the hunters 
 of the company the greater part of their furs, and managed 
 to make more by the operation than if he had kept up a 
 large hunting establishment of his own. 
 
 Mr. Sinclair, a partner with Captain Sutter in farming 
 pursuits, and a Mr. Grymes, have large and productive 
 farms on the American Fork, a tributary of the Sacramento. 
 Mr. Sinclair is from Scotland ; is a very interesting gentle- 
 man in conversation, and possesses great enterprise in busi- 
 ness. He was a hunter for many years among the Rocky 
 
562 A ETJEAL BKEAKFAST. 
 
 Mountains, acting as a clerk to one of the Hudson Bay 
 Company's expeditions. Mr. Sinclair treated me to a rural 
 breakfast, and, in accordance \Yith. his old habits, broiled 
 his meat on a ramrod stuck up before the fire. The limpid 
 and beautiful river near which his house is situated is made 
 doubly attractive when compared with the sultry plains in 
 the vicinity, upon which good water is not always to be 
 obtained. 
 
MAKING AND RAISING THE " BEAR FLAG." 
 
 The author is indebted to Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secre- 
 tary of "The Associated Pioneees op the Tekri- 
 TOEiAL Days op Calipoenia," for the following corres- 
 pondence, which settles the matter as to the date of raising 
 the " Bear Flag " at Sonoma, Cal. Secretary Winter de- 
 serves the thanks of the Pioneers for his persistent and 
 painstaking efforts in settling for all time this mooted 
 question : 
 
 Office of the " Teeeitoeial Pioneees 
 op Califoenia," 
 
 No. 103 Montgomery Street, 
 San Feancisco, August 30th, 1878. 
 
 Dear Sir : — Inclosed please find a list of " Pioneer " Asso- 
 ciations, with their places of meeting and the nam.es of their 
 presidents and secretaries ; and, as well, a copy of a communi- 
 cation from James G. Bleak, Esq., to me, of date April 16th, 
 last, giving the date of the raising of the "Bear Flag" at 
 Sonoma. 
 
 I am prompted to send these papers to you, because I think 
 them valuable to the Society you represent, for reference and 
 preservation ; and more than this, because we aee eegaed- 
 ING THE New Yoek Society — so closely eesembling oue 
 
 OWN, IN NAME AND SENTIMENT, DECLAEED OBJECTS AND AC- 
 COMPLISHED WOEK — AS MUCH NEAEEE AKIN TO OUE ASSO- 
 CIATION than any other existing organization. 
 
 The list of " Pioneer " organizations, etc., sent is the result 
 of considerable examination of Directories and correspondence, 
 with a desire to make it as complete and correct as practica- 
 ble ; yet, it is possible, you may be able to suggest some addi- 
 tions, in which case you wUl please do the favor. 
 
 32 (563) 
 
564 LETTEB FEOM JAMES G. BLEAK. 
 
 I transmit the copy of James G. Bleak's letter, for the rea- 
 son that it is esteemed important in settling the Question 
 AS TO Date op Eaising the "Bear Flag" at Sonoma, in 
 1846, upon which there has hitherto been so much contradic- 
 tion, both among the " Bear Flag " Party and in History. 
 
 Mr. John S. Hittell, Historian of the Society of California 
 Pioneers, S. F., in his Report of 7th January last, fixed the 
 Date as the 12th of June, 1846. Bancroft, the Pacific Coast 
 Historian, intended to publish it as on the 15th June, etc. 
 
 To Wm. L. Todd (Maker of the Flag and one of the party) 
 I was indebted for the information that Captain Wm. B. Ide, 
 in command of the party, kept a Diary during that eventful 
 period of California's early History, and this Diary must 
 henceforth be received as the most reliable data extant 
 and, I think, conclusive on that point, in view of the treachery 
 of human memory. 
 
 Yours fraternally, 
 
 Wm. Winter, Secretary. 
 
 Francis D. Clark, Esq., Secretary Society of " The Asso- 
 ciated Pioneers of Territorial Days of California," Head-quar- 
 ters, N. Y. City. 
 
 St. George, Utah, 16th April, 1878. 
 
 To Wm. Winter, Esq., Sec'y of Association of " Territorial 
 Pioneers of California" — Dear Sir : — Your communication of 
 3rd inst. is placed in my hands by the widow of a departed 
 friend — James M. Ide — as I have at present in my charge 
 some of his papers. 
 
 In reply to your question asking for " the correct date" of 
 raising the "Sear Flag" at Sonoma in 1846, I will quote from 
 the writing of Wm. B. Ide, deceased : — " The said ' Bear Flag ' 
 [was] made of plane [plain] cotton cloth and ornamented with 
 the red flannel of a shirt from the back of one of the men, and 
 christened by the words 'California Republic' in red paint 
 letters on both sides ; [it] was raised upon the standard where 
 had floated on the breezes the Mexican Flag aforetime ; it was 
 the 14th of June, '46. Our whole number was 24 all told. 
 The mechanism of the Flag was performed by Wm. Todd of 
 
WILLIAM B. IDE's DIAEY. 565 
 
 111. The Grisly Bear was eliosen as an emblem of strengtli 
 and unyielding resistance." 
 
 I will quote a few lines more, though not pertinent to the 
 fact of raising the Flag ; still I believe the few following words 
 cannot fail to be gratifying to the companions in arms of Wm. 
 B. He: 
 
 " The men were divided into two companies of 10 men each. 
 The 1st Artillery was busily engaged in putting the cannon in 
 order, which were charged doubly with grape and canister. 
 The 1st Rifle company were busied in cleaning, repairing and 
 loading the small arms. The commander after setting a guard 
 and posting a sentinel on one of the highest buildings to watch 
 the approach of any persons who might feel a curiosity to in- 
 spect our operations — directed his leisure to the establishment 
 of some system of finance — whereby all the defenseless families 
 might be brought within the lines of our garrison and sup- 
 ported. Ten thousand pounds of flour were purchased on the 
 credit of the Gov. and deposited within the garrison. And an 
 account was opened on terms agreed upon for a supply of beef 
 and a few barrels of salt, constituted our main supplies. 
 "Whisky was contraband altogether. After the first round of 
 duties was performed, as many as could be spared ofi" guard, 
 were called together and our situation fully explained to the 
 men by the Commander of the Garrison. It was fully repre- 
 sented that our success — nay, our very life depended on the 
 magnanimity and justice of our course of conduct, coupled 
 with sleepless vigilance and care. (But ere this we had 
 gathered as many of the surrounding citizens as was possible, 
 and placed them out of harm's way, between 4 strong walls ; 
 they were more than twice our number.) The commander 
 chose from these strangers the most intelligent, and by the use 
 of an interpreter went on to explain the cause of our coming 
 together — our determination to offer equal protection and equal 
 justice to all good and virtuous citizens, that we had not called 
 them there to rob them of their liberties, or to deprive them of 
 any portion of their property, or to disturb them in their social 
 relations one with another nor yet to desecrate their religion.'' 
 
 Here I will desist as my time is much occupied and perhaps 
 
566 PIOJSTEEK OEGANIZATIOIirS. 
 
 I have written full as mucli as you care to read, or the asso- 
 ciation to hear. 
 
 Before closing I beg leave to refer to a newspaper clipping 
 I find among the papers : it is from the " Daily Alta Cali- 
 fornia" of 20 Jan'y 1846. Appended to a copy of the " Pro- 
 clamation" is a certificate from Senor Joachin Torres stating 
 the Flag was hoisted on the date of the Proclamation, June 
 15th, 1846. This you will perceive is incorrect. I have been 
 careful to give you verbatim copy of Ide's words as 
 
 WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. 
 
 Eespectfiilly, 
 
 James G. Bleak. 
 
 The foregoing is a true copy of a Letter received by me, from 
 James G. Bleak, Esq., of St. George, Utah. 
 
 Wm. "Winter, 
 Secretary Association of " Territorial Pioneers 
 of California," 
 San Francisco, August 30th, 1878. 
 
 PIONEER ORGANIZATIONS. 
 
 " the society of CALIFORNIA PIONEERS," 
 HaU, 808 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, California. 
 S. C. iHastings, Febdinand Vassault, ' 
 
 President. Secretary. 
 
 ASSOCIATION OF "TERRITORIAL PIONEERS OP CALIFORNIA," 
 
 Hall, 103 Montgomery Street, San Francisco. 
 Wm. T. Qabeatt, Wm. Wintee, 
 
 Fresident. Secretary. 
 
 ■SOCIETY OF " THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OP THE TERRI- 
 TORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," 
 Head-quarters, New York City. 
 John A. Stittek, Feaucis D. Claek, 
 
 .President. Secretary. 
 
 No. 16 Cortlandt Street, N. Y. 
 
PIONEER ORGANIZATIONS. 567 
 
 SOCIETY OF "SANTA CLARA COUNTY PIONEERS," 
 San JosS, California. 
 Coleman Youngee, Alex. P. Muegotten, 
 
 President. Secretary, 
 
 Eoom No. 1, Commercial Bank Building. 
 
 "SACRAMENTO SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS," 
 Rooms, 7tli Street, between J and K, Sacramento City, Cal. 
 A. B. OsBOEN, Asa P. Andkews. 
 
 PresideM. Sea-etary. 
 
 "MARYSVILLE PIONEER ASSOCIATION," 
 Marysville, California. 
 
 Wm. G. Muephy, 
 
 "SAN JOAQUIN SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS," 
 Pioneer HaU, 174 El Dorado Street, Stockton, California. 
 W. P. Peeeman, Alonzo Khodes, 
 
 President. Secretary. 
 
 ASSOCIATION OF "OREGON PIONEERS," 
 Salem, Oregon. 
 W. J. Hereon, J. Heney Beown, 
 
 President. Secretary. 
 
 SOCIETY OP "PACIFIC COAST PIONEERS," 
 Hall, B Street, Virginia City, Nevada. 
 A. J. Tyeeell, S. D. Bak;ee, 
 
 President. librarian. 
 
 "PIONEERS OF AMADOR AND CALAVERAS COUNTIES," 
 Jackson, California. 
 James Meehan, Jeff. Datb, 
 
 President. Secretary. 
 
 ■'VALLiejO PIONEERS ASSOCIATION,' 
 Vall6jo, California. 
 
 "SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS, FOR THE DISTRICT COM- 
 POSED OF SONOMA, NAPA, MARIN, MENDOCINO AND LAKE, 
 COUNTIES." 
 J. Cavanadgh, Capt. Andeew Heney, 
 
 President, Recording Secretary, 
 
 Petaluma, Petaluma, Sonoma Co., Cal. 
 
568 "teuckee," the indian guide. 
 KINDRED ORGANIZATION. 
 
 SOCIETY OP " KATIVE SONS OF THE GOLDEN "WEST," 
 Hall, 320 Post Street, San Francisco. 
 JOHH H. Geady, H. Lunsteds, 
 
 President. Secretary. 
 
 "TRUCKEE," THE INDIAN GUIDE. 
 
 The following letter, which explains itself, is deemed 
 worthy of a place in this volume : 
 
 Office of the Association of " Teeeitojrial^ 
 PiONEEES OF California," [ 
 
 No. 103 Montgomery Street, i 
 
 San Feancisco, September 26th, 1878. J 
 Samuel C. Upham, Esq., Philadelphia — Dear Sir: — The 
 following is a copy of a recent communication in which is con- 
 tained an interesting fragment of our Pioneer history, which I 
 have caused to be unearthed, and believe may, at this moment, 
 to be of service to you. 
 
 I have thought it only an act of courtesy due you from 
 this Association to give you the copy. 
 
 Yours, very respectfully, 
 
 Wm. Winter, Secretm-y. 
 
 " Oakville, Napa County, Cal., 
 "August 26th, 1878. 
 
 } 
 
 " "Wm. Wintee, Esq., San Francisco — Dear Sir : — In an- 
 swering your inquiries, I have a request to make of you, which 
 is, that if in future you meet with James M. Harbin, you will 
 write a biographical sketch of the Indian Truckee, as Mr. 
 Harbin can give all the particulars better than any one else, 
 judging from the following facts : 
 
 " In 1845, Harbin and a few others were on their way to 
 California, via Overland Route, and on arriving at the Sink 
 of the Humboldt, they met with an Indian and employed him 
 
WM. baldrigde's letter. 569 
 
 to pilot them across the desert. Wtile en route Harbin noticed 
 a resemblance in him to a Frenchman he had formerly kno\vn, 
 and therefore bestowed the name of the Frenchman (Truckee) 
 on the Indian, and on arriving at the river (Truckee), they 
 were greatly elated at their good fortune, and named it 
 ' Truckee's River.' ' Truckee ' and two of his brothers came 
 to California with the emigrants, in 1846, and, served in Fre- 
 mont's Battalion until the end of the war, and ' Truckee ' was 
 admitted to be as brave, if not the bravest, man among us, and 
 was certainly far superior to most Indians in intellect. 
 
 " I am glad that you met with Mr. Wm. L. Todd, and hope 
 the controversy concerning the Bear Flag will soon be settled, 
 not that in itself it is a matter of great importance, but as it 
 will form a part of history, the story, of it should be correcth' 
 told. I have several times published truthful accounts of it, 
 and, in every instance, other persons, who of their own knowl- 
 edge could have known absolutely nothing about the circum- 
 stances narrated, but who happened to be better writers than 
 myself, would prove to their own satisfaction, and that also of 
 most people, that my statements were false and theirs correct. 
 
 " Yours, etc., 
 
 " Wm. Baldkidge.'' 
 
THE LAND WE ADORE. 
 
 Song and Chorus. 
 
 WORDS ET 
 
 SAMXIEL C. UPHAM. 
 Air — "Flow Gently, Sweet A/ton." 
 
 The gleam of the camp-fires of em - i-grant trains la sel-dom now seen on the far- a-way plains, 
 
 r??^^V^44^^^^ 
 
 
 From his ey -tie the ea- gle looks down in dis-dain, As the stcam-whii^tle shrieks out its startling refrain. 
 
 1 
 
 Our camp-firea no lon-ger il- lume the ra-vine, The Pan and the Booker are rare- ly now seen, 
 
 Fri-jolea a,ni. Qap- jacks, our di - et of yore, Like a vis-ion have flown to re-turn nev-er-more. 
 
 -0- -^ '-^ '-^ (2^ (^ 
 
 Now fondrec - ol - lec-tions of long a - go times, Comeech-o - log ba«k like the mu- sic of chimes, 
 
 ^- 
 
 :S--^--^ 
 
 «hs-- 
 
 fh^ -^ fn 
 
 ^-Jg-^^J£L^ 
 
 I I I 
 
 -1 I -' — I — t- 
 
 Ourthoughtswander backto the land we a- dore, Be-joDd tbe 3i - or-ras — Pa - cif-ic's lov'd shore. 
 
 J iT--lf .gs .,...,3.- 
 
 ^>i ¥f^ff^^YFff## 
 
 570 
 
THE LAND WE ADOBE, 671 
 
 II. 
 
 The Tom and the Sluice-box, once sparkling with gold, 
 No longer wash out the auriferous mould ; 
 The Quartz Mill and Crusher have taken their place. 
 And steam 's declared victor again in the race. 
 Our cabins now roofless and gone to decay, 
 Like their tenants of old, are fast passing away ; 
 The grave on the hillside, with head-board decayed, 
 Marks the spot where a comrade we long ago laid. 
 
 Cho. — Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc. 
 
 III. 
 
 O woman, dear woman ! pure as gold without dross, 
 
 The first at the tomb and the last at the cross. 
 
 Thy presence ne'er cheered us in camp nor in mine. 
 
 In those long-ago days, the days of lang syne — 
 
 "When the toils of the day had drawn to a close, 
 
 And wrapped in our blankets in silent repose. 
 
 Our thoughts wandered back to our sweethearts and wives. 
 
 The loved ones for whom we had periled our lives. 
 
 Cho. — ^Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Now hamlets like magic to cities have grown. 
 The ranehero has reaped the grain he has sown, 
 The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit. 
 And breezes blow soft there as tones of the lute ; 
 The orange-tree blossoms and fruits in the vale. 
 The date and pomegranate, 'mid sand and 'mid shale, 
 The filbert and almond, and manna of yore. 
 Abound in the land that we love and adore. 
 
 Cho. — ^Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc. 
 
 V. 
 
 The Tuolumne rolls on as in ages of yore. 
 The Stanislaus laves its auriferous shore. 
 
572 THE LAND WE ADOKE. 
 
 The Bear and tte Yuba flow down to the sea, 
 Bright flowers are still blooming, and green is each tree ; 
 The Sierras tower up in their helmets of snow, 
 And the wild rose and tul6 still wave to and fro ; 
 Diablo, proud monarch, all grizzled and gray. 
 Looms up in the distance his realm to survey. 
 
 Cho. — Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc. 
 
 VI. 
 
 Now fond recollections of long-ago times, 
 Come echoing back like the music of chimes ; 
 Our thoughts wander back to the land we adore. 
 Beyond the Sierras — Pacific's loved shore. 
 But where are our comrades of long-ago days ? 
 Some with us are crowned with laurels and bays. 
 And others are here with locks frosted by age. 
 Whose names add new lustre to history's page. 
 
 Clio. — Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc. 
 
 VII. 
 
 And Stevenson's veterans are present to-day. 
 From Sonoma, La Paz, and from old Monterey — 
 Heroes, who helped add to the Eed, White and Blue 
 A bright golden star, ever loyal and true. 
 And others lie mouldering on the plains of the West, 
 Their spirits have soared to the land of the blest. 
 Where soon we shall meet on that far-distant shore. 
 Shall meet, and shall greet, and shall part nevermore. 
 
 Cho. — Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc. 
 
A TRIBUTE TO GENERAL JOHN A. SUTTER, 
 AND A TOUCHING REPLY. 
 
 New York, March 1st, 1878. 
 
 General John A. Sutter, President, etc., Washington, 
 D. C. — Dear General: — At a special meeting of "The Asso- 
 ciated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," held in 
 New York on the 18th ult., reference was made to the coming 
 birthday anniversary of our esteemed friend and associate, 
 General John A. Sutter ; and, by a unanimous vote, the officers 
 of the Society were requested to prepare some appropriate 
 memento of this anniversary, to be presented to yourself 
 
 With the greatest pleasure, we hasten to fulfill the honorable 
 duty assigned us by our associates, and hand you the accom- 
 panying cane, wrought specially for the occasion, of California 
 gold and of California rosewood ; it is but a feeble token of our 
 respect and fraternal regard for one who has, during these long 
 years, not only been our friend, but the friend of all Califor- 
 nians ; who has illustrated, by his life and by his signal bene- 
 factions, the Divine precept of " charity." On behalf of our 
 associates, we tender our congratulations that, in health and 
 strength and surrounded by friends, you are able to celebrate 
 this seventy-sixth birthday and anniversary, and that you may 
 long be spared for similar annual congratulations, is our 
 earnest prayer. 
 
 Very truly, yours, 
 
 Francis D. Clark, 
 
 Secretary. 
 (573) 
 
674 GENERAL SUTTEK's 76TH BIRTHDAY. 
 
 GENERAL SUTTER'S REPLY. 
 
 Washington, D. C, March 2d, 1878. 
 
 Feiends and Companions of "The Associated Pioneers 
 of the Territorial Days of California," New York City — 
 Oentlemen : — I received yesterday, by express, as an ap- 
 propriate memento of the seventy-sixth anniversary of my 
 birth, a beautiful cane, " wrought specially for the occasion, 
 of California gold and California rosewood," symbolizing, at 
 one and the same time, the generous gratitude of my contem- 
 porary pioneers and the acts of my life which signally marked 
 my humble career as one of the hardy adventurers of the 
 Pacific slope. For your kind allusions to my early services to 
 the pioneers of California, you will, one and all, gentlemen, 
 please accept my grateful acknowledgments, and the assurance 
 that in such manifestation on the part of those I may have 
 served, I have my reward. 
 
 "We are now hastening onward to our final resting-place, but 
 the romance of our history as California pioneers, with its 
 reverses and its successes, will tend, for ages to come, to stimu- 
 late the energy of our posterity. 
 
 Thanking you for the new honors, and for the many past 
 favors received at the hands of the Society, collectively and 
 personally, I am, truly and sincerely, your friend and obedient 
 servant, 
 
 John A. Suttee. 
 
OF THE 
 
 INAUGURATION AND ORGANIZATION 
 
 ASSOCIATED PIONEEES 
 
 OE THE 
 
 TEEEITOEIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 HEAD-QUAETEES IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK. 
 
 The annual re-union of old Californians, now resident of 
 the city of New York and its immediate vicinity, was in- 
 augurated on tte evening of the 6th of March, 1872, by a 
 party of gentlemen, former members of that pioneer regiment 
 to the Pacific Coast in 1847, known as " Stevenson's California 
 Regiment of New York Volunteers." The party assembled at 
 the residence of a former comrade, John Wolfe, Esq., on West 
 Twenty-third Street, and upon the invitation of that gentleman. 
 Of the regiment there were present : its former surgeon. Dr. 
 Alex. Perry, Captain James M. Turner, Lieutenant Jeremiah 
 Sherwood ; Privates Russell Myers, Francis D. Clark and 
 John Wolfe, the host. Among the guests were Mr. O. H. Pier- 
 son, an old '49er, and John A. Sutter, Jr., grandson of that old 
 pioneer. General John A. Sutter. The evenrag was the twenty- 
 
 (575) 
 
676 EE-UNION OF CALIFOENIA PIONEERS. 
 
 fifth anniversary of the arrival of the ship Thos. S. Perkins, 
 the pioneer ship of the fleet which conveyed the regiment to 
 California. Letters of regret were received from absent com- 
 rades, Major-General Jas. A. Hardie, Inspector-General U.S.A., 
 formerly major of the regiment; Generals Nelson, Taylor and 
 Francis J. Lippitt, formerly captains ; Hon. Sherman 0. 
 Houghton, House of Representatives, formerly a member of 
 Co. A, as also letters from other distinguished gentlemen re- 
 siding away from the city. It was at this little gathering that 
 the subject was discussed of the organization of a "Society of 
 California Pioneers of New York City," all Californians of 
 1849 and prior, to be eligible, the Society to act in concert 
 with the one at San Francisco. 
 
 On the following year, in the month of March, the second 
 re-union took place, and there assembled at the residence of 
 Mr. Wolfe, Dr. Perry, Captain Turner, Lieutenant Sherwood, 
 Privates Myers, Clark, Wolfe, as also the following who were 
 not among those present upon the former occasion. Privates 
 Jacob J. Schoonmaker, Wm. H. Rogers, James E. Nuttman, 
 Jacob W. Norris and John Taylor, and thus was another 
 evening passed in a joyous re-union of these early pioneers.. 
 
 In the month of March, 1874, the members of the regiment 
 decided to hold the re-union of that year at one of our hotels 
 in consequence of sickness in the family of their comrade, Mr. 
 Wolfe, himself also an invalid, and while arrangements were 
 being effected for that purpose, the proposition was made to 
 those gentlemen having the matter in charge, by a number of 
 '49ers,to join the two elements upon the present occasion, and 
 have a re-union of California Pioneers, on the evening of the 
 2Cth of March, 1874, celebrating the twenty-seventh anniver- 
 sary of the landing of Stevenson's Regiment of New York 
 Volunteers at San Francisco, and the following circular was 
 issued and addressed to all pioneers known to be residents of 
 this and adjoining States : 
 
 1847. EE-UNION OF CALIFOENIA PIONEEES. 1874. 
 
 New Yokk, March 16th, 1874. 
 The undersigned take pleasure in announcing that arrangements 
 have been completed for a re-union of California Pioneers, to be held at 
 
COMMITTEE OF AEKAWaEMENTS. 
 
 577 
 
 the Sttjetevant Hotjse, Broadway, Twenty-eighth and Twenty-ninth 
 Streets, on Thursday evening, the 26th instant, at eight o'clock, being the 
 twenty-seventh Anniversary of the landing of Colonel Stevenson's Regi- 
 ment of New York Volunteers, at San Francisco, Cal. 
 
 Should you be pleased to participate in the re-union, a, response 
 addressed to the Secretary will meet with attention. 
 
 COMMITTEE OP AEEANGEMENTS. 
 
 Surg. ALEXANDER PERRY, 
 Lieut. J. SHERWOOD, 
 JAMES E. NUTTMAN, 
 RUSSELL MYERS, 
 FRANCIS D. CLARK, 
 JOHN WOLFE, 
 
 Maj.-Gen. h: GATES GIBSON, U.S.A., 
 
 FRANCIS E. PINTO, 
 Hon. JAS. S. WETHEKED, 
 JOHN SICKELS, 
 O. H. PIEESON, 
 JACOB P. LEESE, 
 
 
 ALEXANDER PEEEY, M. D., Chairman. 
 LIEUT. J. SHERWOOD, Treasurer, 
 
 1172 Broadway. 
 GEN. FRANCIS E. PINTO, Secretary, 
 
 106 Wall Street. 
 
 Upon the evening indicated there assembled at the Sturte- 
 vant House a large and enthusiastic gathering of Californians 
 of the early days — among the number being Commodore C. K. 
 Garrison, General Thos. B. Van Buren, Willard B. Farwell, 
 William Colligan, William M. Walton, Jas. F. Curtis, John 
 Lambier, H. P. Townsend, G. A. Mendon, James Stark, the 
 old pioneer actor, E. W. Crowell, and besides the gentlemen 
 composing the committee of arrangements there were some 
 fifteen former members of the regiment present, and among 
 the guests were Eufus Hatch, Esq., Vice-President of the 
 Pacific Mail Steamship Company, and Clark Bell, Esq., Coun- 
 sel to the Company, who represented the old pioneer Steam- 
 ship Company of California. This assemblage unanimously 
 voted that the re-union so worthily inaugurated by the little 
 band of Stevenson's regiment should henceforth assume a per- 
 manent character, and upon the motion of Mr. O. H. Pierson, 
 the present company adjourned to meet again, if alive, during 
 the coming winter, and in furtherance of that resolution the 
 following circular was issued, calling a meeting of old Califor- 
 nians at the Sturtevant House, on the evening of the 28th 
 January, 1875 : 
 
578 EE-ujsrioiir of old calipoenians. 
 
 TBEEITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 RE-UNION OP OLD C ALIPORNI ANS. 
 
 MEXICAN AND AMEEICAN. 
 
 New York, January 21st, 1875. 
 
 A meeting of gentlemen wlio were residents of California prior to 
 its admission as a State into the Union Seplember 9th, 1850, will be held 
 at the Sttjetevant Hotjse, Broadway, Twenty-eighth and Twenty- 
 ninth Streets, on Thursday evening, 28th instant, at eight o'clock. 
 
 The object of the meeting is for the purpose of selecting a Commit- 
 tee of Arrangements for a proposed Ee-union Banquet, at an early day, 
 as also to obtain the views of those intending to participate upon the 
 occasion. 
 
 The re-union of the 26th of March last was attended with so much 
 pleasure and satisfaction, that those who were participants, as also 
 many who were unable to be present, have expressed a desire for its 
 repetition the present winter. 
 
 Californians of 1851 and 1852, the early days of the Golden State, 
 are cordially invited to participate. 
 
 You are requested to be present upon the evening indicated, or may 
 address a communication (giving your views and expectation of par- 
 ticipating) to the Chairman, California meeting, Sturtevant House. 
 Eespeotfully, etc., 
 
 Jacob P. Leese, 1833. 
 
 EoDMAN M. Peice, 1846. 
 
 WlLllAM COLLIGAN, " 
 
 Alexandeb Peeey, M. D., 1847. 
 Jeeemiah Sherwood, '' 
 
 Feahcis D. Claek, 
 
 O. H. PiERSON, 1849. 
 E. W. Ceowell, " 
 
 S. D. Jones, " 
 
 "Willaed B. Faewell, " 
 
 ■William M. Walton, 
 John Sickels, " 
 
 Peancis E. Pinto, " 
 
 J. A. Sperey, " 
 
 Thomas D. Johns, 1850. 
 James F. Curtis, " 
 
COMMITTEE OF AKEAWGEMENTS. 579 
 
 This circular was addressed to all old Californians, known to 
 be residents of the city of New York and vicinity, and to many 
 residing in distant States, and in response there assembled at 
 the Sturtevant House, on the evening of the 28th of January, 
 the following-named persons : Lieutenant Jeremiah Sher- 
 wood, George M. Leannard, Russell Myers, Francis D. Clark 
 and James E. Nuttman, of Stevenson's Regiment, 1847 ; 
 General II. Gates Gibson, O. H. Pierson, John Sickels, Wil- 
 liam M. "Walton, Thomas McSpedon, H. Barnard, Edw. F. 
 Burton, Willard B. Farwell, pioneers of 1849 ; S. L. Mer- 
 chant, Thos. D. Johns, George W. Stanton, J. A. Prior, of 
 1850, and James H. Butler, of 1852. 
 
 The inclement state of the weather, a heavy storm prevail- 
 ing, caused many to be absent who otherwise intended to have 
 been at the meeting. 
 
 The meeting was called to order by Mr. Willard B. Farwell, 
 and on motion of that gentleman. General H. Gates Gibson, 
 U. S. A., was chosen chairman, and on motion of Mr. O. H. 
 Pierson, Mr. Francis D. Clark was selected as Secretary. 
 
 The Chairman stated the object of the meeting, which was 
 to make arrangements for the annual banquet of old Califor- 
 nians resident of the city of New York and vicinity. 
 
 On motion of Mr. Pierson it was resolved that the banquet 
 should take place on Thursday evening, the 11th of February, 
 at the Sturtevant tlouse. 
 
 The Chair announced the following committees in connection 
 with the banquet, and who were instructed to make all neces- 
 sary arrangements for the same. 
 
 COMMITTEE OP ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 Vice Admieal S. C. Edw ah, U. S. Navy, Jacob P. Leese, 
 
 Maj.-Gen. Joseph Hookee, U. S. Army, Jeeemiah Sheewood, 
 
 " H. Gates Gibson, U. S. Army, John Sickels, 
 
 Hon. Rodman M. Peice, "Willaed B. Faewell, 
 
 Alexander Peeey, M. D., Fkancis D. Clark. 
 
 33 
 
580 PEKMANENT OKGANIZATION. 
 
 COMMITTEE ON INVITATION. 
 
 Maj.-Q-bn. Eupus Ingali/S, U. S. Army, John Sickeis. 
 
 reception committee. 
 
 Gen. Fkanois E. Pinto, William M. Walton, 
 
 Edgae W. Cbowell, O. H. Pibhson. 
 
 COMMITTEE ON DECOEATIONS. 
 
 James F. Curtis, Maj. Eussell Mtbbs, 
 
 William Colligan, Col. Jas. E. Ndttman. 
 
 Mr. Clark moved that this meeting proceed to take the 
 necessary steps for the immediate organization of a permanent 
 association, to be known as the " Associated Pioneers of the 
 Territorial Days of California." 
 
 Mr. Pierson moved that the Chairman appoint a committee 
 to frame a Constitution and By-Laws for the purpose of such 
 an organization. 
 
 The Chair appointed as such committee Messrs. Johns, 
 Sickeis, Walton, Farwell, Colligan, Myers, Sherwood, Clark 
 and Nuttman, with instructions to make their report on the 
 evening of the banquet. 
 
 After a full exchange of views on the part of those present, 
 in relation to the subjects brought before the meeting, on mo- 
 tion of Mr. Merchant the meeting adjourned until the evening 
 of the 11th of February. 
 
 At .a subsequent meeting of the Committee of Arrangements, 
 the resignation of Dr. Alex. Perry was received, in consequence 
 of his inability to attend the banquet. 
 
 On motion of Mr. F. D. Clark, the same was accepted, and 
 Mr. S. L. Merchant was chosen to fill the vacancy. 
 
 On motion of Mr. John Sickeis, Major-General H. Gates 
 Gibson was chosen Chairman of the Committee. 
 
EEPOKT OF COMMITTEE ACCEPTED. 581 
 
 EEPOET OF COMMITTEE. 
 
 New Yoek, February 11th, 1875. 
 
 At the meeting of Old Califomians, held at the Sturtevant House, 
 in this city, on Thursday evening, the 28th of January last, the under- 
 signed were selected as a committee to prepare a, suitable plan of or- 
 ganization for a permanent Association, through which the memories of 
 their pioneer experiences in the settlement and development of Cali- 
 fornia, during its territorial and early days, may be perpetuated to the 
 members of such association and their posterity. 
 
 Believing that the best way to perfect such an organization is to 
 approach the subject in the simplest and most concise manner, and to 
 act without unnecessary expenditure of time, the committee have pre- 
 pared the subjoined brief articles of association, which they hereby sub- 
 mit, with the recommendation that they be accepted and signed by all 
 who desire to become members, and by that act thus calling the desired 
 association into immediate existence. 
 
 Thos. D. Johns, 1850, Chairman. 
 JOHK SiCKELS, 'J 
 
 Wm. M. Walton, (■ 1849. 
 
 WlLLAKD B. Fab WELL, 3 
 
 William Colliq-ajst, 1846, 
 EussELL Myees, 
 J. Sherwood, 
 FKANcia D. Claek, 
 Jas. E. Nuttman, 
 
 Stevenson's 
 
 Eegiment 
 
 1847. 
 
 General Francis E. Pinto moved the acceptance of tte re- 
 port, and on being seconded by ex-Governor Rodman M. Price, 
 the same was unanimously received. 
 
 Thomas D. Johns here presented, as Chairman of the Com- 
 mittee, the following : 
 
 AETICLES OF ASSOCIATION. 
 
 1st. This organization shall be called " The Associated Pio- 
 neers of the Territorial Days of California." 
 
 2d. It shall be composed of all residents of California prior 
 to its admission into the Union, September 9th, 1850. 
 
 3d. All former and present citizens of California, who resided 
 there subsequent to September 9th, 1850, shaU be eligible to 
 
OFFICEES CHOSEN JAN. 18, 1878. o83 
 
 OFFICERS OF THE SOCIETY, 
 
 Chosen at the Annual Meeting, held January 18th, 1878. 
 
 PKESIDEBTT. 
 General JOHN A. SUTTEE, Litiz, Pa. 
 
 SECEETAET. 
 FEANCIS D. CLAEK. 
 
 VICE-PEESIDEIirTS. 
 
 Gen. H. G. GIBSON, U. S. A. 
 JOHN SICKELS, N. Y. City. 
 GEOKGE IIO^yES, N. Y. Oily. 
 JOHN J. IIAGEE, FJiineheck, N. Y. 
 Hon. DEMAS STRONG, Srooklyn, N. Y. 
 SAM'L C. UPHAM, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 GIL5I0R MEREDITH, Baltimore, MJ. 
 Gen. EDW. r. BEALE, Washington. D. C. 
 Hon. ROBERT II. McKUNE, Seraniun, Pa. 
 ■WM. II. WALTON, KewaTic, N. J. 
 
 TEtrsTEES. 
 
 Gen. THOS. W. SWEENY, V. S. A. 
 
 Gen. TIIOP. D. JOHNS. 
 
 Col. EDW. F. BURTON. 
 
 Hon. C. LYDECKEE. 
 
 GEO. F. SNIFFEN. 
 
 JAMES A. SPERRY. 
 
 EDW. R. ANTHONY. 
 
 E. W. CROWELL. 
 
 WM. 0. ANNAN. 
 
 TEEASTTEEE. 
 Hon. JEREMIAH SHEEWOOD. 
 
584 AETICLES or ASSOCIATION. 
 
 AMENDED AND EEVISED 
 AETICLES OF ASSOCIATION. 
 
 Article 1. This Society shall be known by the name of 
 " The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days op 
 California," and is declared to be a social organization. Its 
 objects are to form a more perfect union of the Pioneers of 
 California, now residents of the Atlantic States, and to culti- 
 vate social intercourse between them. 
 
 Art. 2. To collect and preserve historical facts and infor- 
 mation, in connection with the early and subsequent history of 
 the Pacific Coast, and to perpetuate the memory of those whose 
 wisdom, valor and enterprise advanced civilization to the shores 
 of the Pacific. 
 
 Art. 3. The members of the Society shall be classified as 
 follows : Those elected under Art. 6 to be designated Territo- 
 rial members. Those elected under Art. 7, to be designated 
 State members. Those elected under Art. 8, to be designated 
 Sonorary members. 
 
 Art. 4. It shall be the duty, as it will be the interest, of 
 every member of the Society, to use all laudable efibrts to col- 
 lect and procure such relics, incidents and facts connected with 
 the history and settlement of California, as may be interesting 
 and useful to the Society ; and so soon as it is prepared to 
 provide for the care of the same, donations of such articles and 
 information will be received. 
 
 Art. 5. It is declared to be the further purpose of the So- 
 ciety, at such period as its financial strength will warrant, to 
 support a permanent hall in the city of New York, which shall 
 contain the journals and periodicals of the Golden State, a 
 library for the difiusion of useful knowledge among its mem- 
 bers, a museum containing valuable records of interest, and 
 curiosities pertaining to the early days of California ; as also 
 a head-quarters for residents of California visiting the city of 
 New York. 
 
 Art. 6. All persons who were for any period in California 
 
TEEKITOEIAL AND HONOEABY MEMBEESHIP. 585 
 
 prior to the 9th day of September, 1850 (the date of the 
 admission of the State of California into the Union), all who 
 served in the Navy of the United States on the Coast of Cali- 
 fornia during the conquest of that then Mexican Territory, and 
 the male descendants of all such, of lawful age, shall be eligible 
 to Territorial membership. 
 
 Aet. 7. All persons whose residence in California dated 
 subsequent to the 9th day of September, 1850, and who were 
 residents of the State for the period of one year, shall be eligible 
 to State membership on the same terms as other members, and 
 shall be entitled to all the privileges of the Society, except to 
 hold office ; provided, however, that this Article shall in no 
 wise change the status of the State members who were enrolled 
 prior to the 18th day of January, 1876. 
 
 Aet. 8. Any person who, previous to the 9th of September, 
 1850, the date of the admission of California into the Union, is 
 recognized as having been prominently identified with, or 
 prominently connected with, California in direct business or 
 commercial relations, and is not eligible to Territorial or Btate 
 membership, may, by vote of two-thirds of the members pre- 
 sent at an annual meeting of the Society, be admitted to 
 Honorary membership, without the payment of the member- 
 ship fee or other dues, and shall be entitled to all the privileges 
 of the Society except to vote or hold oflice ; provided, how- 
 ever, that the names of such persons shall have been presented 
 in writing to the Secretary of the Society at least thirty days 
 before said annual meeting. 
 
 Aet. 9. Any person qualified as prescribed in Articles 6 and 
 7, desiring to become a member, shall make application to the 
 Secretary of the Society, giving name, place of residence, occu- 
 pation and date of his arrival, or that of his ancestor, in Cali- 
 fornia ; and within ten days after the receipt of such applica- 
 tion the Secretary shall transmit the same to the Board of 
 Trustees, and upon the return of the application by them, as 
 approved, the Secretary shall notify the applicant of his. 
 election. 
 
 Aet. 10. All applicants for membership to this Society must . 
 
586 ADMISSION FEE. 
 
 be of good character and gentlemanly deportment, and in every 
 ■way entitled to the respect and confidence of the Associated 
 Pioneers; and in any case where the facts obtained by the 
 Board of Trustees are to the contrary, the application shall be 
 rejected. 
 
 Aet. 11. Each person, on admission as a member of the 
 Society, shall pay into its treasury the sum of ten dollars, and 
 an annual assessment of five dollars, payable semi-annually in 
 advance, and shall sign the Articles of Association with his 
 name in full, and the day of the month and year of his arrival 
 in California ; and if any person residing in the city of New 
 York, for two months after his notification by the Secretary of 
 his election, or if residing outside of the city of New York, for 
 three months after said notification, shall neglect to pay his 
 membership fee and sign the Articles of Association, he shall 
 be considered as having declined to become a member ; indebt- 
 edness for six months after the semi-annual assessment shall 
 have become due, shall render the member liable to be sus- 
 pended from all privileges of the Society until said indebted- 
 ness has been paid. This Article shall not apply to any mem- 
 :ber who was elected prior t6 the 18th day of January, 1878, 
 unless he shall have notified the Secretary of his willingness to 
 abide by its conditions. 
 
 Aet. 12. Any member who shall be accused of moral turpi- 
 tude or misconduct inconsistent with his obligations as a 
 ■member of the Society, or who shall make a false representa- 
 tion of the time of his arrival in California, shall be notified to 
 appear before the Board of Trustees, and if found guilty, shall 
 •be reprimanded or expelled by said Board, and notice thereof 
 : shall be given to the members by the Board, through the Sec- 
 retary, stating the reason of said action : provided, the member 
 shall have the right to appeal to the next annual meeting of 
 the Society, by filing in the Secretary's ofiice notice of his in- 
 tention so to appeal within one month after the service upon 
 him of the notice of the judgment of the Board. And unless 
 the decision of the Board be affirmed by a vote of a majority 
 of the members present, the action of the Board shall be of no 
 ■efiect. 
 
PRESIDENT, VICE-PEESIDENT AND SECEETAEY. 587 
 
 Aet. 13. The officers of the Society shall consist of a Presi- 
 dent, ten Vice-Presidents, Secretary, Treasurer, and a Board 
 of Trustees, to consist of nine members. 
 
 Aet. 14. The annual meeting of the Society shall be held 
 on the eighteenth day of January, that being the anniversary 
 of the discovery of gold at Sutter's Saw-mill, by James W. 
 Marshall, an employee of General John A. Sutter. 
 
 Aet. 15. The election for officers, all of whom shall be quali- 
 fied members of the Society, shall be holden at the annual 
 meeting, and their election shall be by ballot. 
 
 Aet. 16. The officers of the Society shall hold office for one 
 year, or until their successors have been elected and qualified. 
 
 PEESIDENT. 
 
 Aet. 17. The President shall preside at the meetings of the 
 Society, and of the Board of Trustees. He shall preserve 
 order and decorum, and shall announce the order of business, 
 and decide questions, subject to an appeal by any two mem- 
 bers. He is also empowered to call a special meeting of the 
 Society at any time that it may, in his opinion, be deemed 
 necessary ; the call to be made through the Secretary of the 
 Society by written or printed notice to each member. 
 
 VICE-PEESIDENT. 
 
 Aet. 18. The First Vice-President shall preside and per- 
 form all the duties of the office of the President in the absence 
 or disqualification of that officer ; and in the event of the death 
 or resignation of the President, he shall succeed him during 
 the remainder of his term ; and in the absence of the President 
 and the First Vice-President the senior Vice-President present 
 shall perform the duties of the office. 
 
 SEOEETAEY. 
 
 Aet. 19. The Secretary shall keep a record of all the pro- 
 ceedings of the Society, and of the Board of Trustees. He 
 shall record its Articles of Association in a book to be kept 
 
588 TEEASUBEK AND LIBBAEIAN. 
 
 solely for such purpose. He shall register the names of mem- 
 bers, and shall have charge of the roll of members. 
 
 He shall be responsible for the safe-keeping of all books of 
 record and papers belonging to the office of the Secretary. 
 
 He shall, whenever directed by the President,* give the 
 members of the Society and Board of Trustees proper notice of 
 all meetings, and shall perform such other duties as may be 
 assigned to him by the Board of Trustees. 
 
 TREASUEEE. 
 
 Art. 20. The Treasurer shall collect the admission fees and 
 dues, and shall hold all the money, evidences of indebtedness, 
 and valuable documents of the Society. He shall not pay any 
 money except upon an authorization signed by the President 
 and countersigned by the Secretary of the Society. He shall 
 make a report every six months to the Board of Trustees, and 
 exhibit in detail his receipts and payments, and the balance in 
 the treasury, and if invested, how ; provided, that the Trea- 
 surer is not authorized, nor are the Board of Trustees empow- 
 ered, to appropriate or direct the payment of any money from 
 the funds held by the Treasurer from membership fees. Such 
 money shall be held as a permanent fund of the Society, 
 the interest, oiily therefrom, to be at the disposal of the 
 Board of Trustees for the necessarily-incurred expenses of 
 the Society. 
 
 He shall keep a regular account of the financial affairs of 
 the Society, an abstract of which he shall exhibit, accom- 
 panied by satisfactory vouchers, at each annual meeting of 
 the Society ; at the expiration of his term of office he shall 
 deliver to his successor all moneys, evidences of indebtedness, 
 valuable documents, books, vouchers and other papers in his 
 possession belonging to the Society. 
 
 LIBEAEIAN. 
 
 Aet. 21. It shall be the duty of the Librarian to keep a 
 full and accurate catalogue of all the books, magazines, maps, 
 charts, relics or other property belonging to the Society, and 
 arrange them in proper order. He shall make a record of all 
 
BOAED OF TKUSTEES. 689 
 
 books or other donations presented to the Society, in a book 
 provided for that purpose, with the names of the donors, and 
 to make suitable acknowledgment of the same. 
 
 The Secretary shall be, ex officio, Librarian of the Society, 
 and perform all the duties as Librarian until the Board of 
 Trustees shall appoint one, and under such regulations as the 
 Board of Trustees may from time to time direct, which instruc- 
 tions shall be given to the Librarian in writing, under the 
 signature of the President of the Board. 
 
 BOAED OP TEUSTEES. 
 
 Art. 22. The Board of Trustees, of which the President and 
 Secretary shall be members by virtue of their respective offices, 
 shall meet for the transaction of business at such time and 
 place as the President of the Society shall direct. 
 
 The President of the Board shall, upon the receipt of an 
 application for membership from the office of the Secretary of 
 the Society, make inquiry as to the moral character and social 
 standing of the applicant ; and if the information received be 
 satisfactory, the application shall be returned with the indorse- 
 ment Approved, if to the contrary, it shall be indorsed Re- 
 jected, and shall be signed by at least three other members of 
 the Board. 
 
 A majority of the members of the Board shall constitute a 
 quorum to transact the business of the Society. 
 
 The Board shall have charge and control of the personal 
 property of the Society. 
 
 The Board shall direct the investment of the funds received 
 by the Treasurer from the membership fees, or from any special 
 donation to the permanent fund of the Society, in United 
 States Government bonds, where the amount in the hands of 
 the Treasurer is sufficient for that purpose, such bonds to be 
 placed by the Board in a reliable Safe De]}osit Company, not 
 to be withdrawn or appropriated except by the vote of two- 
 thirds of the members present at an annual meeting of the 
 Society ; the interest, however, derived from said bonds, to be 
 subject to appropriation by the Board for the current expenses 
 of the Society. 
 
590 BELIEF FUND. 
 
 The Board is empowered to fill vacancies occurring in 
 any ofiice, except that of President, until the next annual 
 meeting. 
 
 The Board shall have power to appropriate the funds of the 
 Society, not otherwise prohibited, but shall not create any debt 
 or liability in the name of the Society, or in any manner use 
 its credit. 
 
 The Board shall examine all bills paid by the Treasurer, as 
 otherwise provided, at least once in every three months. 
 
 Aet. 23. The President, on the decease of any member in 
 good standing, shall call a meeting of the Society ; and the 
 obituary and resolutions passed at such meeting may be pub- 
 lished in a newspaper published at the place of residence of the 
 deceased, and the Secretary shall communicate the proceedings 
 to the family or relatives of the deceased. 
 
 Aet. 24. When the Board of Trustees shall be satisfied that 
 any worthy member of the Society is unable, for the time being, 
 to pay the yearly dues hereinbefore prescribed, it shall have 
 power to remit such dues. But if any member of this Society, 
 having the ability to pay the yearly dues hereinbefore pre- 
 scribed, shall refuse to pay the same, and shall not, at the time 
 of such refusal, render an excuse that shall be satisfactory, he 
 shall be debarred from all privileges of the Society, the Secre- 
 tary shall cause his name to be erased from the roll, and ho 
 shall not again be admitted as a member except by two-thirds 
 vote of the Board of Trustees, and upon such conditions as 
 the Board shall deem fit to impose. 
 
 Aet. 25. It shall be the duty of the Board of Trustees to 
 create a Relief Fund ; and they shall cause to be transferred 
 thereto, from time to time, from the General Fund, any sur- 
 plus money there may be therein, beyond the estimated current 
 expenses of the Society for the year. And all moneys obtained 
 by the Society from any and all sources for charitable uses, 
 shall be paid into said Belief Fund, and be disbursed under 
 the direction of the Board of Trustees, to aid such members as 
 shall, in their judgment, be entitled thereto. 
 
 Aet. 26. The Articles of Association may be amended at 
 
EOLL OF MEMBEES. 591 
 
 any annual meeting of the Society, upon the vote of two-thirds 
 of the members present. 
 
 Aet. 27. These revised Articles shall take effect immedi- 
 ately upon their passage, and shall supersede those in force 
 heretofore. 
 
 Examined and approved. 
 
 James A. Speeey, "j 
 Thomas D. Johns, V Committee. 
 John Gault, j 
 
 The above Committee was appointed at the annual meeting 
 held January 18th, 1878, to revise the foregoing Articles. 
 Their action to be final. 
 
 Feancis D. Claek, Secretary. 
 
 EOLL OF MEMBERS. 
 
 JANVASY 18th, 1S7S. 
 
 TEEEITOEIAL MEMBEES. 
 
 1833. 
 Jacob P. Leese, San Antonio, Texas. 
 
 1839. 
 Gen. John A. Sutter, Litiz, Lancaster Co., Pa. 
 
 1843. 
 Gen. John C. Fremont, Arizona Territory. 
 
 1846. 
 
 Hon. Eodman M. Price, Eamsey, Bergen Co., N. J. 
 
 Gen. Edw. F. Beale Was^hington, D. C. 
 
 Gen. Joseph W. Eevere Morristown, N. J. 
 
 William Colligan, 58 Monroe St., N. Y. 
 
 John Dolman, 727 Walnut St., Phila., Pa. 
 
692 EOIiL OF MEMBERS. 
 
 Edward C. Kemble, 312 E. 79tli St., N. Y. 
 
 Dr. George McKinstry, Old San Diego, Cal. 
 
 1847. — (Stevenson's Eegiment.) 
 
 Francis D. Clark, 16 Cortlandt St., N. Y. 
 
 Joseph Evans, 70 High St., Newark, N. Y. 
 
 EuBsell Myers, 3 "West 27th St., N. Y. 
 
 Charles J. McPherson, 604 9th Ave , N. Y. 
 
 James E. Nuttmau, Newark, N. J. 
 
 William H. Rogers, 1363 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 Judge Theron R. Per Lee, .... Baltimore, Md. 
 
 Hon. Jeremiah Sherwood, .... 1180 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 John Wolfe, ... ... 114 West 23d St., N. Y. 
 
 1848. 
 Hon. James S. Wethered, .... 100 East 23d St., N. Y. 
 
 1849. 
 
 WilUam C. Annan, 160 Fulton St., N. Y. 
 
 Edw. E. Anthony, 70 Wall St., N. Y. 
 
 Col. Edw. P. Burton, Custom-house, N. Y. 
 
 Russell W. Benedict, 102 Wall St., N. Y. 
 
 Mark Brumagim, 9 Nassau St., N. Y. 
 
 Stephen M. Barbour, 154 N. 9th St., Phila., Pa. 
 
 E. W. Crowell 40 Pine St., N. Y. 
 
 David M.Chauncey, 140 Joralemon St., B'klyn, N. Y. 
 
 Henry K. Cummings, 205 N. Water St , Phila., Pa. 
 
 Robert W. Dowling, 105th St. and 11th Ave., N. Y. 
 
 Johns. Ellis, 96 Wall St., N. Y. 
 
 Willard B. Farwell, New York. 
 
 John H. Fisher, 97 First Place, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 John Gault, 71 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 Gen. H. G. Gibson, U. S. A., . . . Fort Wadsworth, N. Y. 
 
 A. T. Goodell, 451 East 57th St., N. Y. 
 
 E. E. Griffith, Jr., 202 lilcCullough St., Balto., Md. 
 
 Gen. Joseph Hooker, U. S. A., . . . Garden City, L. I. 
 
 H. B. Hawkins, 35 Broad St., N. Y. 
 
 John J. Hager, Ehinebeck, Dutchess Co., N. Y. 
 
 John H. Harris, "90 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 John G. Hodge, San Francisco, Cal. 
 
 Joseph B. Hill Great Neck, L. I. 
 
 George H. Johnson, 747 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 Benjamin W. Jenness, 220 Lewis St., N Y. 
 
 John Laimbeer, 245 West 50th St., 1\ . Y. 
 
 E. J. Paulison, Hackensack, N. J. 
 
EOLL OF MEMBERS. 593 
 
 Hon. Cornelius Lydecker, .... Englewood, N. J. 
 Hon. Eobert H. McKune, .... Scranton, Pa. 
 
 Gilmor Meredith, 43 Franklin St., Baltimore, Md. 
 
 Com'r Eichard W. Meade, TJ. S. N., . Huntington, L. I. 
 
 James J. McCloskey, 113 Spencer St., Brooklyn, N.Y. 
 
 Gen. Francis E. Pinto, 37 Pearl St., N. Y. 
 
 Oliver H. Pierson, 59 West Ninth St , N. Y. 
 
 Joseph M. Pray, 179 Montague St., B'klyn, N. Y. 
 
 Silas H. Quint, 14 S. 4th St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 John Sickels 25 Pine St., N. Y. 
 
 Joseph S. Spinney, 66 J Pine St. N. Y. 
 
 A. A. Selover, ■ . 52 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 George F.Sniffin, 239 Broadway, K". Y. 
 
 James A. Sperry, . . .... 145 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 Gen. Thos. W. Sweeny, TJ. S. A., . 314 East 120th St., N. Y. 
 
 Hon. Demas Strong, 67 Broadway, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 Eobert J. TifTany, San Francisco, Gal. 
 
 Samuel C. Upham, 25 S. 8th St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 William M. Walton, 19DeySt,N. Y. 
 
 1850— (Prior to September 9th.) 
 
 Gen. James F. Curtis, 50 Pine St., N. Y. 
 
 George Howes, 82 South St., N". Y. 
 
 C. C. Hastings, 51 West 46th St., N. Y. 
 
 Gen. Thomas D. Johns, 95 Liberty St., N. Y. 
 
 Beverly C. Sanders, 71 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 Capt. Joseph Spinney, .... 338 Pearl St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 STATE MEMBEES. 
 
 1850 — (Subsequent to September 9th.) 
 
 *Gen. Charles S. Merchant, .... Carlisle, Pa. 
 
 ■^Stephen L. Merchant, 63 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 *Charles E. Thompson, 73 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 1852. 
 
 *James H. Butler, 9 Maiden Lane, N. Y. 
 
 *Charles W. Schuman, 24 John St., N. Y. 
 
 Capt. James H. Merryman, ... 1 6 Broadway, N, Y. 
 
 1853. 
 
 Hon. C. K. Garrison, 40 Park Ave., N. Y. 
 
 William E. Garrison, 5 Bowling Green, N. Y. 
 
 * Enrolled prior to January ISth, 1876. 
 
694 ROLL OF MEMBERS. ' 
 
 1859. 
 
 George "W.Gilbert, 25 Wall St., 17. T. 
 
 Lewis Leland, Sturtevant House, N. Y. 
 
 HONORARY MEMBERS. 
 
 Reuben Lord, Stapleton, Staten Island, N. Y. 
 
 Effingham B. Sutton, 82 South St., N. Y.