iiiiifiteiiK': WMM ^, ;tJ/7V^- ^z/jr/^' Cornell University Library PR4821.J5H5 Herefordia, a poem.By James Henry James 3 1924 013 488 162 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924013488162 mh.. THE ACCEPTANCE, QUEEN VICTORIA, OF THIS VOLUME, ILLTJSTK ATIWG A P I C T IT B E S Q, TJ E ENGLISH COUNTY, IS HUMBLY SOLICITED |l), |)cr llajcstu's |aitljful Subject, THE AUTHOR. WYE BRIDGE, HKREFUKT). "Nor distant far, the stout Old Bridge appears, Withstanding flood and storm three hundred years. Its arches, rough, yet sturdy all now seem ; And jealous of the piers high up the stream, Would to the rival fabric silly say— ' We shall be strong, when you are in decay.'" Canto II. HEREFORDIA JAMES HENRY J_AMES, Anddk Temple. LONDON. EDWARD LACEY, 434, WEST STRAND. ?. 7'-/- 4 LON DON : WEnTHEIMER AND CO., PBINTERS, CIRCUS PLACE, riN«BURY. PREFACE. Herefordshire, by its historical associations, its beautiful scenery, so delightfully intercepted by the picturesque and winding river, the Wye, at all times claims the admiration of travellers. The highly cultivated soil, rich with orchards, hop-yards, and cattle, adds greatly to its importance as an agricultural district. These natural advantages, united with the truly hospitable character of its inhabitants, render it a most agreeable place of sojourn to strangers, who cannot fail to be interested in rural scenery, and in the pleasant and peaceful occupation of the resident population. Whilst the County thus enjoys an unrivalled position amongst the other districts of the ancient Siluria, and indeed amongst the most favoured parts of all England, the many eminent persons (either natives, or closely aUied with it), who are and have been identified with literature, science, art, and with her ecclesiastical institutions, make it not unworthy of commemoration in a special form. The Author has attempted this pleasing yet not easy task ; but the spirit which has prompted him will, he trusts, cause the many defects, too palpable in the working up of its varied subjects, to be considerately overlooked. vi PREFACE, The difficulties inherent to poetic composition, when applied to objects which embrace not only scenes in Nature, but also historical facts, local allusions, names and dates, will be readily app^reciated by the reader. These, it is hoped, may be taken as an apology for the apparent want of connection between, and the somewhat awkward blending of, the matters consecutively discussed in tlie Cantos which compose the Poem, of which the Author now ven- tures the publication. But he cannot do so without tendering his best acknowledgements to his valued friend, the Rev. Albert Jones, W.A., Minor Canon of the Cathedral, for his kind assistance in procuring for him several of the drawings for the Historical Illustrations, as well as the Notes relating to them. Whilst adhering to the Histor)- of Hereford, as the leading thread of the Poem, the aim has been throughout, to render it accept- able to general as well as local readers, by the introduction of subjects associated with rural life, and also by relieving the heroic metre (in which the principal portion of the text is written), by the occasional adojjtion of lyrical measures. The Author must not omit to express to Mr. Freudemacher, Arti,st, and Messrs. Wertheimer, Printers, his approval of the \er)' able man- ner in which they ha\e seconded his efforts in the Illustrations and Typography of the A'olume, to make it not unworth)- of his native county. MzniiT 1. Tkmi'M , Jan. \^tli, iRrti. CONTENTS. Dedication Introductory Stanzas Canto I. Canto II. Canto III. Canto IV. Canto V. . Canto VI. Notes to the Poe)ii Notes to the IIIustration.s 24 44 65 «.i lOI 121 LANDSCAPE ILLUSTRATIONS. Wye Bridge, Hereford . Frontispiece. The Castle Green . . 14 Cathedral and Lady Chapel . ... 36 The Preaching Cross, Blackfriars . 46 The White Cross . 72 The River Wye, from the Prospect at Ross 8S Goodrich Court, and Goodrich Castle 108 Town Hall, Hereford . 121 Tintern Abbey . i.^o Ludlow Castle .... ..... 15S ARMORIAL BEARINGS, RELICS, &c. St. Ethelbert's Shrine, or Pyx ... . Title Page. Arms of the City of Hereford ... 3 Arms of the Bishopric, prior to the time of Cantilupe . . 7 Arms of the Bishopric, since Cantilupe ... 23 Arms of the Deanery .... 43 Seal of the College of Vicars Choral ... .65 The Crosier of Bishop Trelleck, ancTBuU of Pope Clement \'I. . 85 The Brass Statuette at the College . . . loi Arms of the Author . 152 Familiar with the scenes my youth had known, Thou mad'st my thoughts and feehngs all thine own ! Thee, whom to know was but to see and love ; Thee, whom to love was but a joy to prove. That joy none holds, save He, who now doth bless His humble creature with such happiness ; The happiness which warms a husband's heart. The sympathy which prompts a parent's part : And next to thee and thine, my former home (The which to picture in this modest tome My pen hath tried) commands a child's sweet care, Leaving many a sweet remembrance there ! This then accept, a token of my love, A poor thank-offering to the Power above. Who so far on our earthly pilgrimage. For us, hath deign'd His mercies to engage ! SiLURiA, our fathers' cherish'd home, Where fought invincible, through wounds and death, Britannia's hardy sons, defying Rome, Her galhng chains, and slavery's hated breath ! Land of the brave, where drawn from ancient sheath, The sword of freedom met a hostile world, Her bands all led Caradoc's arm beneath, Nor vainly strove, where'er his flag unfurl' d, And shedding life for hfe, he back th' invader hurl'd. HEREFORDIA. Herefordia, favour'd part of that blest land, We and our children hold through years of peace ; Abode of industry, where Nature's lavish hand Doth give to labour hundred-fold increase : The region, too, where now in joy and ease. Religion bids us use the treasures given. As trusts for those, whose wants we should appease, The poor and meek; who oft by trouble driven, May lack the things of earth, but not the wealth of heaven ! Rashly, in vain, with feeble hand and lyre. Untuned to strains befitting such sweet theme. To sing thy beauties doth my muse aspire, A task most grateful, though it unwise seem. Fruitless as ends the sage's frequent dream. Yet as a parent eyes a much loved child. Hiding a fault in virtue's brighter beam, Thou must regard the poet's venture wild, Praising the thought, e'en if his work doth prove unskiU'd ! ■'M> SI IJJECT. Contemplation. — Morning on the Plinlimmon Mountains. — Source of tlie River \V)l', its Descent to Rhayader, its Course by Penybont, CJlasbury, Hay, Chfford and Wliitney, into the County of Hereford. — And liy way of Clifford, Hereford, Goodrich, Tintern, and Chepstow, to join the River Severn. — The peaceful Condition of the Country and its pleasant Mllaycs and Churches. — Allusions to ( )\\'en Glendwr and Henry V. — The City of Hereford, the Old Castle, and its defence against the Parliamentary Troi.tij^ in the Time of Charles I. — The Castle- Green, River, Bridge, Dinedor Hill. — A Summer Storm as seen from Dinedor. — The MuLalnlity of Worldly Grandeur. — Allusion to the pi'evailing Spirit to restore and sustain our Ancient Temple.s devoted to Di\ine Worship. — The joyous Character of Rural Life. — The S|ir)rtsman's Song. "SJ > I 'mi Hail, Herefordia ! clothed with hill and plain, Where grateful peace, and smiling plenty reign A paradise, where clustering orchards bloom. And pear and apple blush with soft perfume. Garden of flowers ! where hop on slender bine And damask rose with honeysuckle twine. Land of beauty ! where garner'd riches crown The labour of man's hand with fruit its own. HEREFORDIA. Hail, Herefordia ! Freedom's charm'd retreat, Where mind and mind in kind communion meet, All free to think and act, aloud express That which but makes a Briton's happiness. Personal independence ; this, to move Here none would rashly try, below, above : Not the least fair of England's fair domain. Where Ceres triumphs with her golden train ! Hail, Herefordia ! damsel coy and bright. With cheek of roses, eye of piercing light. Thee, modest, joyous, e'en the wanderer loves To greet in cottage, hall, or sylvan groves. Gen'rous of heart, sedate in form and face, There shine alike thy kindhness and grace, Apt with sweet words, whose truth and eloquence Bespeak thy candour, purity, and sense. HEREFORDIA. IV. Hail, Herefordia, hail ! The welcome warm Thou bid'st thy children, and the matchless charm. Which Nature to thy landscape doth impart, Delight the eye, felicitate the heart. The aids thou giv'st to impotence and age. The charities thy liberal hand engage, Mark the best feelings of humanity, The founts of holy love that never die. V. Lo ! Morning dawns ; bright o'er the arc are traced Faint streaks of crimson from the opening East. Then, hie Thee, rambler, where, all robed in snow, Plinlimmon's rugged heights resplendent glow ; There, view for once, athwart the mountain plain. The rising sun illume the pathless main. Piercing with glittering beams the cold grey sky. Ere first his face doth greet thy straining eye. Chill'd though thy blood be in its purple vein. Perception touch, but slow, the sentient brain, HEREFORDIA. Sublime and fair shall grow the wondrous scene, AA'arm wax thy heart, pleased be thy smiling mien. As Night retires before the God of Day, The 1^'aning mist assumes its upward way. The light, on Morning's spangled front unfurl'd, Gives life and language to the waking world : The tongues, all mute through Darkness' dreary hour, Now celebrate Jehovah's love and power ! VI. In deep defile, beneath the granite cone. Where sits the eagle in its eyry throne. There may you trace a small yet limpid spring. By pebbles chafed, o'er pebbles murmuring ; The fount whence Vaga, like a serpent's trail. Draws her quiet course through Siluria's Vale : A brooklet, here, its shallow bed descends ; A river, there, with broader current bends. Here shelving rocks, with lichens overgrown, Form shady haunts where salmon sport alone ; There, sloping margins, warm'd by sunny beam. Entice the trout to gambol in the stream. HEREFORDIA. VII. Threading their stony way, all rough and steep, The widening streams in ample volume sweep, And thundering down the rugged precipice. Where caldron-like the seething eddies hiss. The currents mingle in the plain below. Beneath the bridge at Rhayader now flow. Then passing close by Penybont and Builth, Through scenes of rustic toil and buoyant health ; Skimming the fertile vale of Glasbury, The river glides Hay-Church, and Castle nigh, Touching the fruitful soil of Hereford, Where Whitney-meadows stretch their velvet sward. VIII. Silent, and clear, fair Vaga flows along Through groves enliven'd by the skylark's song ; In fi-equent groups, kine fill the open glade, Sipping the liquid glass in cooling shade. Here fleecy flocks, like stars in th' azure sky. The meadows stud, delightful to the eye, HEREFORDIA. Where tiny daisies rear their crownlets sweet, So tempting e'er to children's rambhng feet ! IX. Through shocks of ages past, of war and storm, Unchanged and fresh, yet smiles loved Nature's form The hill, the dale, the boundless sea and sky. The rivulet and rock, still catch the eye. Nor should we feel the wasting hand of Time, Did not pale Ruin, in her face sublime. The once staunch oak, the tower, and fane assail. Leaving but crumbling stones to tell the tale, How work of human skill must share the doom. Which yields its maker to the lowly tomb. So droops De Clifford's strong-hold bleak and bare, (The childhood's home of Rosamond the Fair.) With Goodrich walls, old Chepstow's frowning keep. And Tintern's shrine ; 'neath which, in noiseless sweep, See, Vaga hastes to kiss Sabrina's wave, Fringing with flowers the bank her waters lave. HEREFORDIA. 13 X. All fickle as the wind, that turns aside At morn, at night, at noon, and evening tide. Are human thoughts. So, e'en the weaker part, Which holds the female's soft, and loving heart, In waywardness and change doth come behind The rougher sex, the master of mankind, — Who e'er would woman's gentler mind control With bonds, which bears not his maturer soul. Now cold and sullen, hot and jealous, he Doth exercise relentless tyranny : — Yet, doubly cruel still, is womankind. Who, in a sister's ways doth error find, (Denying sympathy for faults her own). If accident doth make the lost one known. So Rosa fell, and paid the penalty Devised by Ellen's cruel jealousy ; Yet who but mourns the hapless maiden's fate, Who doth not loathe her rival's murderous hate ? 14 HEREFORDIA. XI. Peace triumphs here, where War once had its sway, Briton and Saxon mix'd in bloody fray : Corn-fields and Gardens rich with apple-bloom. And Hop-yards redolent with soft perfume, And smiling Hamlets with their copse-wood hide. The Village Church, its land-mark, and its pride : — The Sacred Court, where praise, and prayer, and love. On Sabbath-morn, address the Power above ; The Font which seals the younglings of Christ's flock. Our Saviour, King, our Hope's ne'er-failing rock ; The Altar-stone where kindred hearts agree To bear Life's toils, share its felicity ; Our latest couch beneath the verdant sod. Till call'd to taste the Paradise of God I XII. The restless spirits, once all fire and life. Are dead and cold, have ceased their angry strife. The princely Glendwr sleeps at Monnington, In humble grave, the river's bank upon ; ^¥-^^^^ CASTLE-GREEN AND CATHEDRAL. "To trace the growth of yon stupendous pile, Its massive tower and well proportion'd aisle, A thousand years ere Queen Victoria's reign The Muse recalls." Canto II. HEREFORDIA. 15 Henry of Agincourt is gone to earth, Yet Monmouth stands, which gave the hero birth. Old Hereford, fair city of the Wye, Famed for its cyder and its loyalty. Still holds her place amid the pleasant scene, Where groves and varied landscapes intervene. Reft is her castle, all her ramparts lost, Which bade defiance to the Scottish host. Preferring bloodshed, in Charles Stuart's cause. Brave Scudamore upheld the crown and laws. So, earn'd he then a victor's wreath and fame, Link'd ever with the City's spotless name. The fortress gone, yet on its former site The Green remains, to all affords delight ; Its slopes, its trees, its beauty ever fill (With river, bridge, and Dinedor's wood-clad hill), The gazer's eye with pleasure seldom known, Save, Art and Nature make the work their own ! XIII. Now looking down from Dinedor's camp and hill. Where late, the view was all serene and still, i6 HEREFORDIA. Dun clouds appear upon the changing sky, Surcharged with Jove's august artillery. Hot grows the air, a tremor strikes the earth, The darkness looms, such at volcano's birth Appals the mind, ere pent-up fires escape, And make the mountain-cone with fissures gape. Now loud, and louder, distant thunders speak, From murky clouds the rain-drops melting break ; Then flash on flash, and peal on peal succeed. Sweeping th' horizon's line with giant-speed. See, here and there, the forkfed lightning flies. Through the blue vault, the rolling bolt replies. Now lost and hid, each tower, each spire, recedes, And, shorn with wind, trees quake hke trembling reeds. Reckless and quick, as spoil'd and way^vard child,- The tempest triumphs in its fury wild, Till the broad sun, all conquering, full and brigkt, Regilds both field and stream with living light. XIV. All worldly grandeur, wealth, and pomp, and power. Are creatures of a day, a fleeting hour. HEREFORDIA. 17 That which belongs to finity and time, Tainted by death, decay, perchance by crime, Soon fades, and, wanting reproducing force. Declines through Nature's perishable course ! That which endures through immortality. Must breathe of love, a holy sympathy. Preserving all from sin's impending fate, Leading to hfe, in life's most perfect state ! So, pious hands from time to time restore The sacred temples built in days of yore ; The tapering spire, the huge expanded dome, Where duty bids us seek our heavenly home. Old and young, rich and poor, with pressing feet, His grace to share, in God's high presence meet ; As wave on wave, along the river flows, Each race of worshippers but comes and goes ; Now clear, now dim, then lost to human eye, Swept in the ocean of eternity ! XV. A country-life is stirring, free, and gay, Unlike the townsman toiling, day to day. i8 Hl'.REFORDIA. None need be sad, if they but love the field, A sportsman's life doth recreation yield. Enjoyment, there, will Melancholy cure, The best of pill to keep the doctor poor ; Sa\ e now and then, a crack, a fall, or sprain, Will cost some cash, and not a little pain ! To learn to tumble is no sad mischance. It mars the risk, and doth the fun enhance, And he whose foot in stirrup oft doth get. Ne'er fenrs a broken bone, a somerset ! I. Hurrah ! Hurrah ! The thrilling horn Doth wake the portals of the morn, And drives dull sleejj awa\. Sec '. see ! once more, the golden sun To streak the east hath just begun. And hails the commg da}'. HEREFORDIA. 19 2. " Up and astir ! " the sportsman cries, And quick the downy couch he flies, — To take th' exciting field. Both horse and hound are on the move, Whilst Reynard lurks in yonder grove, By tangled brake conceal' d. 3- Hark ! hark ! Again, at headlong pace, The sky doth echo back the chase, Each footstep, sliout, and breath ! O'er hedge and ditch, at dawn of day, See, gallant Reynard leads the way, Heedless of all, save death. 4- Hurrah ! hurrah ! With clattering heels. And heavy tramp, the landscape reels, As 'twere a whirlwind's birth ! To die this morn he hath no mind So Reynard leaves his foes behind. And safely runs to earth ! SL'liJI'XT. A Retrospect. — The Introductiun uf Chnstiaiiity into England. — ■ Refiection.s upon that Lti^-jjensation. — Sketch of the lIisLuiy 'A the Cathedral Cliurch of Ilerefoid. — t'vom the time uf the Heptarchy (incUiding the Murder of King Ethelbert), to the end of the Eighteenth Centur)'. — Eabric raised b)- Wilfred and Athelstane. — And Additions by Bishops Lozing and Raynelm. — Its Restoration under Deans Merewether and Dawes. — Story of Ethelbert and Elfrida. — St. Cantilupe's Shrine, and Woiks of Bishops Audle}', Booth, and Stanburw — The New ^Altar Screen. — Allusion to the late Dean Mcrewcthcr, and the late .Mr. Joseph l:.rili.\ . — The Cathedral and its central position amongst the Parochial Churches of the (_'it)'. — The Aiicient Monastery and Hospitals. — The .\ttractions afforded by the l-'ields surrounding the City. ~ I'li^ L hild's S"Iil;. How oft, and pensively, in life's young day. When summer sparkled in its silvery way, Fair Nature wooed me, with her flowery sheen. To rove o'er fields and thread the sylvan scene. The mind thrown backward for a thousand years, (Long interval of changes, joys, and tears) ; When with infant step, half averted smile. Civilisation scarce had touch'd this isle ; Fearful to stay, till from the brighter, east, Religion first her starry mission traced. Dark was the land, and drear old England's shore. When Saint Augustine and his compeers bore 24 HEREFORDIA. The Cross of Christ, and His enlightening Word, (By Saxons, simpled-minded people heard) ; 'I'he ra\- of hope, the pledge of heavenly love, Which made man heir of endless bliss above I II. Love e'er be with thee, sainted ^'irgin mild, Cirace be with thee, mother of Holy Child ; Honour and praise to Jesus, (iod's own Son, Our Saviour, King, and Lord, most Mighty One. Glory to Jehovah, the (ireat, All-wise, Maker of heaven, and earth, and sea, and skies. Father of all, (iiver of life and light. Ruler Supreme, All-powerful, Infinite ; God of the LIniverse, Whose mercy hath Saved us from death, eternal woe and wrath, By one complete and lamb-like sacrifice. Ransom, His goodness could alone devise ! What marvel then that o'er the landscape rise, The stately piles whose summits climb the skies : Altars for praise and prayer, temples of love. Where man (his soul and mind withdrawn above). hp:refordia. 25 To God e'er present on His kingly throne, His wants, his cares, his inmost thoughts, makes known. Oh praise ! Oh prayer ! rare privileges given. That not a sigh escapes His ear in heaven ! Based on a Rock, Messiah's church withstands The wreck of age, and Satan's fiendish hands ; Nor guile nor tumult can His truth efface, Nor infidelity His star displace. He hath declared, and who can dare gainsay, " That His dread word shall never pass away ! " Jesus, the once-rejected Corner-stone, With hope, and joy. His saints will ever crown ; To those who seek will point the ready way That leads to life and never-ending day. There, faith engrafted on the Holy Three, Assures the yearning soul's felicity ! m. To trace the growth of yon stupendous pile. Its massive tower and well proportioned aisle, A thousand years ere Queen Victoria's reign, The Muse recalls, when, high o'er South-Town's plain. HKRKFORDIA. Stern (Jftj's palace reared its stately head, A scene of treason base, — a tragic deed ! Swept are its walls, its ancient gate, and fane. Vet lurks there still foul murder's loathsome stain ; For history tells how Mercia's monarch took Counsel with Quendreda, and vilely broke Hospitality's ties. He, b) her, led. The blood of Royal Ethelbert then shed. Who thither lured, claim'd for his queenly bride, Their child Elfrida ; but so brideless died, Leaving the hapless maiden sad, forlorn, In (Jroyland's shade the Anglian Prince to mourn ! But crime Uke this could ne'er unpunish'd be ; His harrow'd soul, bent down with miser\', From Marden Church tire slaughter'd king he brought. And neath a tomb magnificently wrought. Enshrined his bones within Saint Mar\''s aisle ; With dners lands endow'd the sacred pile, (ia^'e to the church the sainted sovereign's name, \\'herein to worship pious pilgrims came. The gifts, so made, the old l 'athedral shares, Erected now, some full eighl hundred \ears. HEREFORD I A. 27 IV. Within that space, lo ! Time hath done its worst, Devouring fire, rapine, and war accurst ; Wilfred's worli, that by Athelstane begun, By Griffith, Prince of Wales, were soon undone, Till Lozing, and Raynelm, with master-hand. The fabric in its present outline plann'd ; Save, that about a century ago. The Western Tower was suddenly laid low. The modern front by Wyatt then replaced. Exhibits little skill, and doubtful taste, Assorting badly with the first design, Noble, elegant, of dimensions fine ! V. So long as stands about thy sacred walls A stone on stone, the busy mind recalls, With thoughts still sad, the Saxon monarch's fate, Seeking within thy courts now consecrate. The crumbling effigy defaced and worn. O'er which his Anglian heges loved to mourn ; The rehc fails, yet in the poet's verse His blood-stain'd death impressive words rehearse. 28 HEREFORDIA. " Xight wanes apace, the crowd are gone, The lamps have ceased to glow ; And C'ynthia's beams reflect upon The placid lake below. "The song of mirth is heard no niDrc, No guests the goblet fill ; The banquet's revelry is o'er, All, all is hush'd and still '. " No more amid the stately pile, The dance affords delight ; Nor tale, nor jocund sports beguile The silent hours of night. 4- "All seek the downy couch of sleep, The host and worthy guest ; The drowsy guard on duty kcejj, And envy them their rest ! HEREFORDIA. " No minstrels strike th' enlivening string, None sound the thrilling horn ! The nightingale hath ceased to sing, And slowly breaks the morn. 6. " The portals of the dappled east Assume their bright array ; The sun, in nevv-born splendour drest, Drives lowering clouds away. 7- " Thick vapours from the earth arise, And pass away unseen. Till night again shall veil the skies, Now lucid and serene. 8. "Above proud Oflfa's gate the gold- Embroider'd banners hung. And 'scutcheon'd shields emblazon'd told, From whence his race had sprung. ^3 HERI'.FURDIA. 9- "The glittering lance and crested pluine Adorn the sculptured wall. And deepening shadows cast a gloom Around his spacious hall. lO. " On South-Town's ' heaven-directed ' fane, Sol slieils his glaring ray ; And peace and joy through Mercia's [jlain. Their gladsome sceptre swav- 1 1. " How different far the scene will he When night appears again, — ( I'er all now reigns festi\'it\', But lamentation then ( 12. " A richly silver-braided \est The \irgin train prepare ; A scarf to wrap the snow-white breast, And gems to deck the hair. HEREFORDIA. .^i " Elfrida, at her lattice high, Sits with the bridal throng, She looks and looks, then heaves a sigh ; ' ^Vlly tarries he so long?' 14. " He comes, 'tis he; and by his side, Attends a noble band ; He comes to claim his royal bride. His loved Elfrida's hand. 15- " The wish'd for hour is gone and past, Slow chimes the marriage bell ; May heaven forbid it prove his last, The bridegroom's funeral knell. 16. " The priest before the altar stands. The maid bends on her knee. And lifts to God her heart and hand. In pious fervency. 32 HEREFORDIA. 17- "But where is he who should have knelt, Before his Maker low ; And where are they, who might have felt, \\'hat none but parents know ( i8. " In vain she waits and looks around, Still vainer are her cries. With shrieks the sacred aisles resound ; Save echo,— nought replies. 19. " Full grief her throbbing heart enthrals. Her lips grow ghastly pale ; She weeps, she faints, and senseless falls, Before the altar rail. 20. " But where is he by whom the \ows ( )f love were pledged so late? Demand of Offa's artful spouse, Whose fiat seal'd his fate. HEREFORDIA. .33 21. " The blush of guilt, upon her cheek, Sends forth its purple hues ; And agitation seems to speak. AMiat conscience dares refuse. 2 2. - 1 In heart a loathsome thing, With subtlety assail'd the life Of Anglia's youthful king :— " Ethelbert, suitor for her child, (Fond hope of Mercia's lord !) To whom, in accents sweet and mild, She gave her plighted word. "To Him, who gives life's fleeting breath. His soul hath ta'en his flight ; He sleeps the last long sleep of death. Upon his bridal night. H I'.REFORDIA. His guards were gone, no friends were near To bless him ere he died ; None, none to dry the falhng tear, Or bid his pains subside. 26. ' Oh ! where is she whom fate hath made, Dejected and forlorn t She goes to Cr(i\ land's hallow'd shade. To li\e, alas ! to mourn 1 Weep Anglia, weep, thy monarch 's dead ; To liea\"en his spirit 's flown ; And he, whose hands his blood ha\e shed, ^\"\\\ mount thy \acant throne. 28. ■ He reigns ; but, mark, how self-reproach Pervades his inm(jst breast ; And pangs of sad remorse encroach Upon his fever'd rest I HEREFORDIA. 35 29. " He lives, but life hath little left, Of aught his love to claim ; — ( )f all but grief 'tis now bereft ; To him, 'tis but a name ! " While aught is left of Cantilupe's fair shrine, (The Bohuns in their altar-tomb recline), Of Audley, Booth, and Stanbury, who wore The mitred cap — in the cathedral bore Their share of decoration ; so, thy name, Dean Merewether, shall survive to fame, Whose knowledge, taste, munificence display' d, Restored the Lady Chapel, and here made The Lantern Tower the glory of the scene ; Where stands, too, Bailey's richly sculptured screen. But both, alas ! removed, are dead and gone, Ere they the finish'd work had look'd upon ; Not ta'en too soon to suit th' eternal mind. Too early lost to those they left behind. .V< HKRp:F(iRr)IA, \ II. X<.)r wanting there be other sii^'hts around. Fresh charms imparting to the sacretl ground ; The ancient College with its spacious sijuare, Tile llishop's ( loister and the palace near; Nor distant far, the stout old bridge appears, Withstanding flood and storm three hundred ) ears. Its arches, rough, yet sturdy all now seem ; And jealous of the piers, high up the stream, A\'ould to the ri\'al fabric slily say, " We will be str(.>ng, when \'0u are in decay.'' \ III. Like aged parent, with his children nigh, "J"he Minster keeps its place revered and high ; The neighbouring fanes .surround it close at hand, All-.Saints', Saint Peter's, with .Saint Martin's stand A\'ith .spires uplifted, proudly looking o'er Saint Nicholas' Church, and its low stunted tower. On site remoter, raised in days bygone, Where creeping ivy hides the sofien'd stone, HKRILFORI) CATIIEDllAL AND LADY CHAPEL, " Like agfed pareut, with bis cbildreii uigh, The Minster keeps its phice revered and high ; 1 he neighbouring fanes surround it close at hand. All Saints', Saint Peter's, with Saint Martin's stand, With spires uplifted, proudly looking o'er Saint Nicholas' church, and its low stinited tower." Canto II. HEREFORDIA. The graceful Monastery of Old Blackfriars, With preaching-cross, though modestly aspires ; And next to these, once courts of praise and prayer, Their kindred piles, the Hospitals appear, Making the city rich in Halls that feed. And shelter give to those who are in need : Thus Nature, Art, Benevolence, here, move In land of Beauty, Peace, and Christian love. IX. In pleasant meads that skirt the city round, Diversified with vale and rising ground. Induced by sport and June's delightful air. Gay troops of children meet and frolic there ! And in their feles all happily engage Their loved companions of a riper age. Who now review with sense of joy and pain, The days they did athwart the hill and plain With agile limbs th' exciting chase pursue, With faultless aim the ponderous missile throw. Joyous, their name and race should thus survive, And sad, themselves but moments few can live. .-^8 hkrp:f<)RI)IA. I. Like rose-bud burst in April-shower, Anxious to taste the \ernal morn, The gentle Alice, Nature's flower, A spring- plant fresh was latest born ! Fragile and prattling, blithe and fair. She '11 dance and sing the long day through ; When evening comes, her eyes prepare "With ceaseless fire to shine anew. 3- Sweet is the breath of childhood's rest. Brings damask hue to thy soft cheek ; Then sleep, that with the greater /est, Thou niav'st thy life's eniovnient seek. 4- ^ oting flowers soon fade, though now thev re bright, And oft they lie all blench'd and low ! The nipping frost and shade of night Do sap their strength, and spoil their glow ! HKREFORDIA. 39 But to enjoy, is to be good ; True pleasures flow where virtues thrive, So take in youth and age the food, Whereon thou may'st hereafter live. siHji:c[\ •^prin^^ — Ojienin.ic of W'c^etntion and Active LifL-. — Tlic l:fe\', Mnccas, Garnon^, IIohnLacy. — (Goodrich and Ross. — Malvern Udls. — Wilton Bridge and Castle. — C'Hidrich Court, and ( ioodnch Castle. — iVnvard \V(iO(|. and ^^'al^M^(l. — ^Suhl;' to the hy Clreen. — Address to Tintern. — Cmnparisdn between Richmonrl Hill and \\_\ndcliff. — AUusiun (o Pierceficki and (diejtsiow Castle. — The lieiuilv of Kveninj^. — Smii^f of (he Night. — Possil)ililv of War. — The Wiluntcer M'lM'nu-iii. — Stnif^^ nf tlie Oak Tree. Hail, Herefordia ! region bright and gay, Wliere, crown'd witli blossoms, smiles tlie Queen of May ; Doffing the garb of Winter, stern and cold, Her cheerful reign doth Spring prepare to hold. Bursting her bonds, and roused from icy death, Nature awakes, and with her genial breath Strews warmth and verdure, where the howling blast Late made the country round a desert waste. Up and astir ; with varied objects rife, Man hastes again to labour and to life ; 44 HEREFORDIA. With the yoked team upturns the mellow land, Here scatters seed with firm and generous hand, There leads the flock to pastures green and sweet, AMiere sunlit slopes the sportive lambkins greet ; Xor deaf to duty and the calls of health, Raising li\ industry the rustic wealth, 'I'he \illagc matron and her youthful train. Now swell the busy troop o'er hill and plain. Though bonny France with sunny landscape shines, All redolent with smiles and blushing vines, Slif cannot boast a more enchanting sight Than Herefordia, when the Hop-)ards bright \\'ith festoon'd vistas meet the raptured e\'e, And orchards rich in blossom'd drapery, Shed perfumes which Pomona only showers, Ivlcn of perfect beaut\, fruit, and flowers ! III. Come charming Summer, time of joy and lo\e To all creation, here, below, alio\'e; BircLs, fishes, insects, l)Lasts, and e'en mankind. All seek thy face, and atmosphere refined. HEREFORDIA. 45 See, morning breaks ! and o'er the dewy earth, Light, borne on fragrant wings, hath early birth. From branch to branch the tiny bee doth stray Gathering her honied store from day to day. On velvet lawn the fleecy flocks recline, And 'mid the stream collect the lowing kine. Tempted by shade and pasture rich and deep To climb the river's side, bush-grown and steep. Ne'er heeding happy youths in fields hard by. Who dance o'er new mown-grass so merrily ! Then welcome jocund Autumn crown'd with corn. With gushing grapes and over-flowing horn. When sumptuous fare, the tankard's ruby foam, Make glad the rustic heart at harvest home ; Then plenty cheers the lord of wealth and soil, The humble cottar, child of want and toil. All bless'd by fruits of Providence and Heaven, With lavish hand to peer and peasant given. IV. Reader, if lust of wealth attract thy heart, Go, thread the maze of Mammon's crowded mart ; 4*1 h1':rkfordia. If fashion lure thee to her glittering wny, (jo seek her courts, where clothed in soft arra\', And smiling mien, her \otaries take delight. Wasting their strength m one continued night, Nor finding rest till garish e)e of day < )n sallow cheeks shall stamp a feverish ray. If Nature lead th\ more sagacious mind, ( U). trace her haunts, where health and peace combined Induce «'ise thoughts, true hours of happiness. And ripe old age which Heaven doth deign to bless. \. Who saunters then the fine old county through, ( an coldl)' pass the scenes which catch his \iew ' The wooded height, the grassy dell and mead, Where burlv oaks their sha(l\- branches spread ; The slopmg orchards where Pomona yields Sweet pjar and apple ; the gold-colour'd fields. Where waxing corn in rich profusion shines, 'The welbtrain'd hopj-yard with its tender bines, Resounding with the gleaner's jox'Tul song. The merr\ dance of labourers, old and \oung ( PRBACHING CROSS, MONASTERY, BLACKFRIARS. " On site remoter, raised in days bygone, AVberd creeping ivy hides the soften'd stone, The graceful Monastery of Old Blackfriars, With Preaching Cross, though modestly, aspires." Canto II. HEREFORDIA. vr. When summer-months with balmy zephyrs vie, The rod and Hne the thoughtful anglers ply, The Golden Valley anxiously explore, Where sport invites them to the sparkling Dore. There may the student sweet retirement taste ; The bard in reverie luxurious waste, Beneath the Abbey walls, the livelong day. And rouse soft echoes by his tuneful lay. Nor needs the painter for his pleasing art, Whilst Vaga's shores such fairy nooks impart, Task grateful ! From the spot wherein she leaves Fair Brecknock's hills, whence Monmouth's vale receives Her stream. Nature, with ever-changing hue, Enchants their ready pen and pencil too. 47 Moccas embosom'd in her sylvan glade. Fair gardens on its terraced slope display'd. And Belmont peeping from its close retreat, Th' enraptured voyager's attention meet. Sweet Rotherwas, secluded snug and warm, 'Neath Dinedor's sheltering hills, ne'er feels alarm. 4B HRREFoRniA. Holm Lacy stately with her park and deer, And Fownhope woods romantic all appear. The scene extends, till Ross and Goodrich nigh ( )n either bank their crowning charms supply. The Prospect boasts, beside its sacred head. The path which Kyrle delighted once to tread, With narrow purse, yet soul enlarged he bore Himself the friend of all the neighbouring poor. By precept urged them, by example led. To win their heavenly and their daily bread ; His fame and virtue through the country ran, The modest teacher and the Christian man. And Pope, great judge of inmost thoughts and waws, ( )n the philanthropist bestowed his praise, Praise woven with the ])i>et's deathless song, l")eser\c(l and just, harmonious on the tongue. X'lII. Whoe'er hath gazed from Ross' high Prospect down. Whose pretty church surmounts the anti(iue town. There traced the river through its winding \Na)-, Reflecting golden tints on summer day, HEREFORD I A. 49 Thence look'd where Cambrian mountains bound the view, And Malvern's heights are bathed in purple hue, The nearer hills all thick with shadows green. And valleys robed in Nature's matchless sheen, The slender spires, and hamlets here and there, Basking in Industry's enriching air, — Will long recall the grandeur of the sight, Retain the thoughts which raised the mind's delight ! Thence glancing westward from the sunny brow. The beaten road ascends the steep below, Nor distant far, thick clothed in ivy green. The walls, and bridge of Wilton, grace the scene ! Within few steps the stranger may descry. Fair Goodrich Court, and Casde rising high, O'erlooking Walford, on the other shore, Old Penyard's wood with ^^'eston in the rear. High o'er the stream old Goodrich lifts its head, And bears with beethng brow an aspect dread ; Uttering a gloomy plaint, her spirit mourns ; With sadden'd heart to former glory turns. r.o HERE FORD I A. I. " Twine, quickly twine, sweet Ivy Green, ( )'er my shorn walls all grey and bare, And kindly hide, with leafy screen, The hand that works destruction there. " Twine, twine again, with perfumed flowers. Bright as the golden sun in j\la)' ; Witli honey'd blossoms crown the hours, Bid Time m\ threaten'd fall dela\. 3- " Fain would I e'er conceal the truth, Traces which mark my ancient stone, ( )h ! could I but renew my \outh, When o'er my halls bright splendour shone. 4- " Though ruin haunts my once proud fane, No better fate, m\- masters share. None of their lordh- race remain ■|'() (loldrick, Talbot, or De Clare. HEREFORDIA. 5- ' Yon puny towers now vainly wear The tinsel of a later day, Like youthful beauties flaunting peer, Mocking my age and sure decay. 6. ' Then quickly twine, sweet Ivy Green, O'er my now soft and crumbhng form ; Let thy young tendrils intervene, To sate the blind devouring worm." As day declines, lo ! Goodrich fades from sight, Its turrets hid beneath the pall of night ; And led by thoughts her raptured mind engage, The Muse to Tintern makes a pilgrimage. Hail, fair Tintern ! Whether or not it be In Winter's dreary hour, when gloomily HEREFUKIJIA, The harsh wind blo«s all biting, cold and loud,. ^Vnil earth lies ice-bound, wrapt in snowy shroud : On \'ernal morn, when oVr thy sacred ground, The young grass springs, and Nature smiles around In Summer, when the sun shines warm and bright, And skylarks warble in the azure height; Or in brown Autumn, decked with changing leaves, A\"hen garners full, fruit blushing, golden shea\ cs Ivcjoice the heart of man, — I \-isit thee ; Tintern, thou still hast deathless charms for rr.e ! Crumbling and reft though be thy ancient gate, Roofless thy walls, fast sinking, desolate ; All stript and naked th)- once glittering shrine, Th\- gothic windows glassless, where did shine. Traced in soft lines and tinctures bright and fair, Lcjjcnds of saints, histories old and rare 1 Dull and dismantled though lli\- lofl) tower, I'ngarnish'd, voiceless be thy statul)' choir; \'el, Tintern, thou dost speak in tones to me, Both sad and sueet, like holy memories be. HEREFORDIA. 5,5 3- Nor praise nor prayer now wakes thy fretted aisles, Nor studied pomp the sacred rite unveils ; Thy lands and tythes by ruthless spoilers shorn, Which made thy coffers rich with coin and corn : Thy mitred abbots crumble in the dust, Their tombs scarce marked with sculptured cross or bust. The mind, reflecting on thy glories gone, Regrets thy ruin, but is proud to own The growth of freedom and the milder law, Ruling since feudalism hath ceased to awe The public mind ; that knowledge, hand in hand With holy truth, hath lighted up the land. 4- Then farewell Tintern ! He, who stands alone Within thy walls, thy beauty looks upon (The ivy clinging to thy wasting form, Where, silent, feeds the dull, rapacious worm !) V.'ill ne'er retire without a parting sigh. The past and present crowding in his eye, Wisliing again to see thy front sublime. Nor further injured by, the hand of Time. HEREFORDIA. X. Monastic life is but existence lost, ^Vallting the spring which should adorn it most. 'Tis active \irtue makes religion thri\ e, Th' example best, by which to act and live. A tree hath use which sheds its proper fruit, 'I hat failing, 'tis a dry and cumbrous root. Th' imprison'd warbler sings ; but lo 1 its song Is not so thrilling, half so sweet or strong, As when it sounds in Xature's haunts all free, Waking the air with charming melody ; 'I'o strains tliere given its younger mates aspire, .And so results a full harmonious (juire 1 And who can i]uit thy shores, meand-ring \\'\e, Ere climbing W'yndcliff, towering clear and high, Xiewing the gorgeous landscape stretching wide. And Piercefield wasli'd b) th)- ne'er-ceasing tide ; I'hen visit Clie|jsto«-, th' old and quiet town, ]!y sheltering hill-side, closely nestling down, With aspect mild, beneath the Cas.le-keeii I Like angry monarch scowling o'er the deep, HEREFORDIA. 55 Its watch hath been since Julius C^sar hurl'd His countless legions through the startled world, Till by Clare, Bigod, Pembroke's lord possest, By Somerset and Cromwell 'mongst the rest ; And lastly, in Victoria's peaceful reign, Portion of Beaufort's rich, much prized domain ; Where forest huge, and pastures fiU'd with kine. Of Nature's wealth afford an endless mine. I. Who hath not heard of Richmond's charming hill, Whence Nature light and beauty thickly showers. And Father Thames with ample stream doth fill The shore, where stand proud Windsor's regal towers. Deep in the gorge, there Kingston holds its place. And Bushey's noble park is clearly seen, A fitting guard to Hampton's fairy space, With palace, maze, and garden, all serene ! .-,6 HERKFORDIA, 3- But here, more bold and grand, doth A\yndcHff rise, A\'here Vaga wanders through the wooded vale, Kissing \\ith lofty brow the da])pled skies, And Tintern droo])s, in dust, a ruin pale. High, on the broad expanse the eye doth rest, Unnumber'd coimties meet the raptured view, Encircling fair Sabrina's golden breast, Then lost in Camfirian mountains clothed with blue. Varied and rich, the prospect hath no end ; Now soft, then wild, fresh objects catch the sight Exhaustless ; save Avhere earth and air do blend Their lessening outlines with the melting light. 6. Sublime, enduring, at His high command, (Uir great Creator's work will death defy; llnlike the fruit of man's but puny hand. Made for an hour, but to decay and die. HEREFORDIA. 7- So, classic Piercefield must its beauties lose, Roofless and bare will be as Chepstow's keep : Nature alone shall see the world's sad close — Will o'er its fallen greatness watch and weep. XII. Happy is he who scans this matchless scene, Where charms of Art and Nature intervene : Nor yet the varied landscape let him leave, Ere day decUnes in dewy lap of Eve. Day hath its glory ! 'Neath th' horizon's bound. Life, light, and shadow, run their wonted round. Morn moves along with quick and sounding feet, All heralding with sweets the Noon-tide heat ; But Evening soft assumes her sober vest. Suggests pure thoughts, fit time for sleep and rest ; Bids the full mind reflect on moments past. Foretaste the morrow, that, perchance its last. He who but tries the future oft to view. Will mete the present with a standard true. Doth labour well to fill the narrow span Which God awards to action and to man. HEREFORDIA. I. Hark ! hark ! through rustling ircc Xdw sighs the Mid-night breeze, ( )'er field and streamlet l)orne ; And high in ivied towers. Through melancholy hours, The moping owl doth mourn ! List ! list I all soft and clear. Now breaks upon the ear, The nightingale's sweet song. Listen, as louder grows The melody, and flows Her trilling, matchless song 1 .V See ! see ! as in the cloud The moon herself doth shroud, Lea\ing the waning night ! Silent on velvet lawn, Watching the day's grev dawn The glow-worm sheds her light ! HEREFORDIA. 59 4- Hark ! hark ! how quick and shrill,. Crowing o'er vale and hill, The cock doth wake the morn ! Now larks do carol high, The hound doth join the cry, The sportsman winds his horn ! XIII. Hark ! hark ! dull guns now in the distance boom. Athwart the sky impends a heavy gloom ; Uneasiness doth strain the public mind, A sense of danger, feeling undefined. Erect and ready every man doth stand. Courage and love now nerve each heart and hand ; Courage in war to meet the coming foe, And love of country none doth better know : Pure unbought patriotism, the thought which spurns All other motives, when abroad there burns Aggressive action, and the wish to brand With foreign yoke our yet unconquer'd land. See, in the noble work, all ranks unite. Reckless of life, all wait the glorious fight ; 6o HEREFORDIA. O'er .s;rned hos'.s these magic words appeai-, "The Queen, old England, and our children dear!" xi\ . Firm as the rock which studs fair Albion' shore, Unscathed by storm, and deaf to ocean's roar, 1 >auntless and steadfast as her stalwart oak, Her sons, regardless e'en of threat or stroke, Make common cause ; and all in band compact. AV'hen danger frowns, resolve to think and act, Well weigh the cause which craves their sturdy might. And, once decided, buckle to the fight. No better guards shall Albion c\cr need. Whilst hearts so true are ready e'er to bleetl, Whilst the broad oak, unbending broad and high, In countless fleets her ^^o()(lcn walls supplj-. 'I'he British (3ak, the hne old oak, A\'ith oulstrctch'd limbs and str(jnL I )eiies the tempest's rudest stroke, Endures through ayes long ! HEREFORDIA. 6i Deep in the soil, robust, and tall. Firm stands its giant form ; With branches wide, its shadows fall, A shelter from the storm ! When dark clouds veil the wintry sky, Leafless it grows and bare ; Its limbs extend all bright and high, A crown of frost-work wear. When Summer smiles all warm and green, And decks the field with flowers, The oak puts on its shady sheen. The ruddy apple showers. 5- When by the Woodman's axe it falls, Dismember'd, shorn, and low. The brave old oak rears wooden walls, A fence 'gainst England's foe ! HEREFORDIA. And so, Religion hath been gix'cn, A shield and solace here ; It yields both peace and joy in hea\Ln, With Jesus ever near. "■~-^W^^f. •'%? ' '"""'J-'J SUIIJECT. Xnliire must be viewed in all her (Jhanges, and her Haunts are necessary to Cdntemplation. — Sceneiy from Ludlow, by way of Keixford, I.edbury, and Malvern. — Ludlow Castle, its History and Present Condition. — The Character of the C'nuitry in < Mden 'I'inics. — The .Saxon and Roman Periods. — Iiua^inn by tile Danes. — Urigin of the Castle of Hereford, and Subjuga- tion of the Cit\' by William the Xorman. — The Men of Here- ford in Doomsday Book. — .Surrender of Hereford to King Stephen. — Henry the Third and the Barons. — Deposition of Edward the Second. — Tlie W'.irs of the Roses. — The Earls of Hereford. — The Viscounts ftf Hereford. — The Siege of Plere- ford liy the Parliamentary Forces in Time of Charles the First. — Its Defence b}' .Sir Barnabas Scudamore. — The I\b)nastci'y of the Blackfriars, — The White Cross and the Plague in Here- ford. — Cliapel at Kington destroyed by an Earthquake. — The Slipping of Marcle Hills. — Longevity of the Lihabitants of the Count}'. — IMorrice franco perfonned before King James the First. — Presentation to tli.Tl Monarch of Twenty-one Sons by Sir Roger de il.nskerville. — Ccneral Reflections on Man, and the Design of the Creation. — Hen.fordia, delightful both to .Strangers and to her Children: the Tie not broken In Death. — Autinnnal T>eaves. Picture a voiceless, dull, unmoving world, Eternal silence into chaos hurl'd ; Or, e'en a flow of never-ending light, Without the rest and soft repose of night ; Pluck the fair stars from Heaven's high firmament ; Sink the vast sea, by foaming billows rent. And build a Babel huge of cold, grey s'one. Whereon to fix the straining sight alone. Monotony so sa.d would, craze the mind, . Render tire vision' soon both dim and blind. But Providence all-good, supremely great. Hath saved His creatures from so dire a fate ; HEP.EFOP.DIA. Si'curing health and jo}' ! Wherever view'd Nature doth shine in crovvd.s or solitude. IT. He loses much who ne'er ca.n N.iture see In c1l her fitful, strange variet)' : Xow ^unu)-, pleasant, bright, serene and mild, Gentle as sportive lamb and prattling child. Then dark and threatening, with a face severe, ^^'idl o'ercast sky and tempest hovering near. Anon, to fi:'y lash'd in wildest height, She strikes the s'.artled earth with subtle light ; Next brooding into silence, such as reigns When spectral corse doth scare the battle-plains. Thus Spjring delights to smile with opening (kn-. Clothing the hills and dales witlr soft array. Then .'■'ummer lures us with her 1 ainiv hours, 1 ler [lurjjled thickets and her perfumed bowers ; And sober Autumn v.ith htr golden horn, Loads the huge bai-n with blusliing fruit and corn. The stores vihich cheer us through the Wintiy night, AVlien social converse charms with kindly light. HEREFORDIA. 67 But quiet thought, and contemplation deep Love lonely heaths where clouds and shadows sweep. In spangled fields and tangled lawn and dell, The artless child of Nature fain would dwell ; Far from the world, its anxious strife, and gains, The mind high impulse, purer view obtains. Content with little ; thus, the greed for much The spirit vexeth not by sordid touch ; Simple of heart, the student there confines His book to fair Creation's glorious lines ; Religion, too, the moral feeling sways. Leading to truth's more calm and pleasant ways I III, Reader, if -aorldly cares distract thy mind, The harass'd brain restoring balm would find, Go, trace the glebe from Salop's boLindary line. To spot where Malvern Hills the county join : See Ludlow smiling, Avith her castle-wall In peace o'er Ludford's antiquated hall : Thence pass by Eerrington to Lem'ster Town ; Then visit Hampton Court retired and lone. 68 HEREFORDIA. By Dinmore Hill, the \a\e of Lugg pursue To Hereford, the varied country through ; Then see Stoke Edith's mansion, park, and fane. Till Ledbury's steeple rises o'er the plain ; Thence seeking Eastnor's awe-insjnring towers. Her velvet slopes, and all-enchanting bowers ; Enraptured, climb the Beacon's swelling height, 'J here contemplate the panoramic sight. Where beauty reigns, and Nature e\-er glows, Displaying charms, which Britain only shows. Brief is the task, but in the mind and eye, "Will linger long the pleasing memory, That freedom dwells, and industry here thrives, Blessing the fruit the great Creator gi\es. If Contemplation woo the purple shade, And young romance affect the leaf\' glade, (Coy Nymphs the twain, each tells her musings sweet, In pleasant gro\"es, fond l(>\crs' sale retreat), Co, seek the woods, where Wigniore's thickets join The hills and vales of charming I.emtwardine, Tra\ erscd by streams, where, through the vernal dav. The anglers lo\ e to lure their finny \nx\. HEREFORDIA. 69 And he who scans the dark, barbaric age, When conflicts dire marked history's early page, May see, not far removed, the battle-field. Where Pembroke's earl display'd his blood-stain'd shield. IV. Close-built, and nestling on the church-crown'd hill, Fair Ludlow smiles with antique gables still. But not disturbed by sounds like those of yore. When her stout walls Montgomery's banner bore, Founder of the fortress ; and from whose fame, '■ Palace of Princes," dates its fitting name. The Castle, for King Henry, Pagnell held. Who aiding, next, Matilda, 'twas then quell'd By Stephen's force; he, join'd by Scotland's heir. Reduced the place, and fix'd his standard there. In the third Henry's reign, De Montfort came, Demolishing the towers by arms and flame. Bold Roger Mortimer then ruled, its lord, Till, to King Edward, treason foul'd his sword ; And, here, the Duke of York in durance vile Held Glastonbury's Abbot for awhile : HERE FORI) I A. And once again, the Castle was besieged ]/y the sixth Henry, who plundering waged 'War 'gainst the town ! Led by savage glow. His soldiers laid the ancient stronghold lo-.;. Upon the death of York at stern Vv'akefield, Tlie Earl of filarch (his son) the Castle held ; Here, the fifth ICh.vard and his brother were \\'a;ch'd by the Earl of Ri\'ers' friendly care, Till, trapp'd away by Glo'ster's fiendish power. The royal youths v.ere niiirder'd in the Tower. In Charles's wars, rj.-;dge,\'ater's famous earl In the King's cau ;e his flag did here unfurl. And for a space, the fji'lr^-ss kept ac bay Cromwell's rapacious troops, which ro;.n 1 it la_\'. \-. Drear though be thy waks, dark be thy present fa'e, ^\'here Ruin stalks all-grand, but desolate, ^ et thou briglit deeds and brighter hours hast kno\'.ii, Reilecting g'or;,-, pl.asure all thine own ; The hours when pageant, maMpae, an.l fe-,!i\-al Did the bra\e knight and jewell'd dame enthral. HRREFORDIA. 71 The deeds which even death and age defy, Rich traits of honour, courage, loyalty. Nor dost thou need the poet's glowing verse, Such Milton's e'er-impassion'd strains rehearse, And Butler pour'd from sharp satyric vein, Within thy courts in Stuart's merry reign. vr. Who views thy giant fortress, once the pride Of Norman power, will not have inly sigh'd — That time is gone, when in thy neighbourhood Raged constant havoc, bloodshed, war, and feud. Peace marks thy place ; where, once vrith feather'd crest Bristled the barb, now builds the bird her nest. And songs harmonious wake the verdant plain, Nor booming gun doth shake thy walls again. Stately and still, beneath the vaulted sky, Thou hold'st thy ancient head sublime and high : Unscathed by storm, save fire of human rage. Thou stand's^ a monument in after-age Of feudal greatness, civil discords past. Whereof thy stones a fading record last ; HKREFORDIA. All i\y-clad, as if kind Nature tried With graceful shroud thy wasting form to hide ! \il. In olden time, Herefordia ]i]ayed her part, Prompt e'er in war ; ni peace with useful art. To exercise her children's ready hand T,y labour to impro\e her generous land. This portion of Siluria was well-known, Which the Dimetie Tribes then made their own. Where long the people bravely held their home Against the legions of invading Rome. Nor till Caractacus was captive borne, And Rome's imperial robe I)}- Claudius worn, Here, did the galling yoke .Sihiria know, 'Fore Julius Frontinus her soldiers bow ! The Roman station, Magna Castra, still. And Ariconium built near Hury Hill, Attest the rule, which, for five centuries' time, The (';\jsars held in I'.ritain's shifting clime. THE WHITE CROSS. "The White Cross (Bishop Charlton's work) records, Now by its slmiJe form, though not in words, That, since the Plague bore, by its poisonous breath, To the doom'd city then, both woe and death, The country-people have enjoy'd fair health, The fertile soil produced its cereal wealth ! " Canto IV. HEREFORDIA. 73 VIII. During this era, a poor village known To Britons, " CaerfFawydd," or " The Beech Town," Enjoyed the now fair city's pleasant place ; And Boel, the governor (so legends trace). At the round table of King Arthur seen, Was in high council, kept at old Caerleen. Some fifty years had pass'd, that king being slain, The district was by Saxon Cridda ta'en ; And of the Heptarchy, the Mercian throne. The last and greatest kingdom then was known. Betwixt this time and Offa's dismal reign, Britons and Saxons were by thousands slain ; To mark the country here by Offa won. The famous Dyke that monarch then begun. Two centuries later, did the Danes invade The city. Bishop Carmalac being made Prisoner, and for whom a ransom paid Was by King Edward, till, by royal maid, Ethelfleda ; the routed Danes were slain, And few survived to flee the crimson plain. The Wall and Castle, by this princess rear'd, Did cause the King to be by Welshmen fear'd ; 74 HEREFORDIA. So, that with Athelstane a truce was made, Tribute in silver, gold, and kine was paid ; And, by this monarch was the River Wye, 'Twixt A\'ales and England, named the boundary. King Harold next the city wall renew'd. And when by Griffith, Prince of Wales, subdued. The citizens were under tribute laid To \Villiam First, who a Mint here made. Thus ceased the Sovereigns of pure Saxon race. Of whom, in history, now, the slightest trace Recalls a sense of love and honest pride, Their mild and simple rule so justified. IX. In Doomsday Book, the men of Hereford Were chronicled in eulogistic word ; Claiming the van when hostile ranks did meet. And so, the rear, when force compell'd retreat. In Eleven~thirt3-nine, th' year of Grace, For the Empress !Maud, Talbot took the place, Holding it three years, when to Stephen, King, Fortune of war the castle old did bring ; HEREFORDIA. 75 And, crown' d, that monarch sate at Whitsuntide In the Cathedral Church. He did decide The southern suburbs all to set on fire, That no unfaithful troops might there conspire. When Henry with the Barons was engaged. The war at first in Hereford was waged. That done, the Ba'tle-field of Lewes was fought. Hence, were the King and his son Edward brought ; But luckily the Prince he found his way To Wigmore, where Earl Mortimer then lay. In solemn council then convened and closed At Hereford, King Edward was deposed ; And Hugh de Spencer, by the Friar's-Gate, His favourite (Earl of Glo'ster) met his fate. X. The soil of Hereford was next imbued With war "and blood, during the Roses' feud ; The Duke of York, 'gainst Pembroke's royal Earl, And th' Earl of Ormond, did his flag unfurl ; But ere in fight, the troops at Kingsland met, High in the Heavens three glaring suns were set. HEREFORDIA. Of Lancasters, four thousand nigh were slain, And Owen, second spouse of Catherine The Queen, with nine brave officers of note, By Yorkists, were within the City smote. In Cromwell's wars it was then thrice besieged, And Cave and \Val]cr 'gainst each other 'gaged ; The former rashly did capitulate, I'he la'.ter entered by old Widemarsh Gate ; But soon his army did evacuate, When Scudamore reversed the City's fate, And forced the Earl of Le\ en to retire, Who so escaped King Charles' superior fire. XL The 5arls of Hereford, once powerful thanes, Held feudal reign o'er town, and hill, and i)lains ; From Swe}n, Fitz-C)/borne, to the bra\ e Breteuil, Through Milo, Bossu, and the Bohun's rule, To th' eighth Earl Humphrey, last of that high name, Henry, his heir, was Duke of Buckingham ; He aided Richard to usurp the throne, (Then prompted Richmond to obtain the crown). HEREFORDIA. 77 Was by that monster kill'd at Salisbury, When ceased the honours of the family ! Viscounts of Hereford, the oldest known, The Devereux' race through sixteen ages own ; Of these, great Robert, Earl of Essex too, Eliza's favor and her vengeance knew ! XII. Lord Cantilupe (the Bishop's brother), he (Time, second Edward) built the Monastery Of Old Blackfriars. In the succeeding reign, The King, the Black Prince, and a noble train. At its high consecration were employed ; And so the fabric for a time enjoyed Much reputation : to its coffers brought The stores which lay nor churchman set at nought. The Whitecross (Bishop Charlton's work), records Yet, by its simple form, though not in words, That since the Plague bore, by its poisonous breath. To the doom'd City then dire woe and death. The country-people have enjoy'd fair health. The fertile soil produced its cereal wealth ! 78 HEREFORDIA. No dark event within the county's bound Hath frighten'd e'er the simple follt around, Since Kington Chapel sank by rude earthquake, And Little Marcle Hills did dance and shake. Its church destroying in their hasty fall, (Some add !) the parson, clerk, and people all ! XIII. The population here attain old age, If temperate habits do the mind engage, " But rheumatism abounds," so cries the sage, " Where cider flows," their native beverage ! In presence of their lord, the first King James, When flourish'd many fine old English games, Ten persons did perform most jollily, A Morrice Dance before His Majesty — I'i\e men, five women, whose united years A thousand reached, by history appears. And Baskerville, much to His Highness' sport, Stout sons a score -and-one he took to court. But Stuarts now no longer fill a throne. The stalwart knight of Norman blood is gone : HEREFORDIA. 79 The Lord of Eardisley, a hundred lands, With all his race is mingled with the sands — The shifang sands which form'd the hill and plain, Where e'en not now his once strong towers remain ! But kings are mortal ; so the life of man Doth vanish into dust, a narrow span ; And dynasties but mark time's finite space, All unenduring as swift lightning's trace ! XIV. Though grand soe'er the page of history reads. And brightly there shine man's heroic deeds, How feeble seem they, when our eyes survey The works of God through each recurring day. The World's design is wonderfully laid. Wherein such love and mercy are display' d. That, wanting these, existence would have been A dreary waste, an unimpassion'd scene ! Mark but the sky its soft and azure hue, Where sun and clouds, delightful, form the view ; The fields, too, deck'd in verdure rich and deep ; The shading trees in lines of beauty sweep ; HEREFORDIA. And rivers bright, like th' eye in human face, Light and expression on the landscape trace ; Supplying harmony to charm the whole. The joyous song of birds enchants the soul. Nature rejoiceth in variety, With endless objects, leads the mind and eye ; Here, the bluff rock o'erawes the watery main, There, mountain-range o'erlooks the sunny plain ; Uniting order, use, and ornament. In system peerless, wise, and excellent ! XV. So rich in gifts doth Herefordia claim The stranger's love. To those, who, with her name. By birth have privilege of closer tie. Sweet Home dwells ever in the memory. In life thus dear, — in death 'twill form a part Of the soul's prayer to sleep within her heart ; Fain would the Muse secure her resting place, A nook within the county's much prized space. Whene'er that comes, oh ! let the moment see The Day's decline, whilst Autumn's leaves shall be HEREFORDIA. 8i Thick strewed by winds, which murmur solemnly O'er her poor tomb, the fitting drapery. 1. Autumnal Leaves : What lessons teach they in the busy crowd. Where Fortune weaves Her web of blank or prize ; but that a shroud Awaits the old and young ; aye, instant death To him that strives 'gainst fate with fiercest breath 1 2. Pale, falling Leaves : What speak they in the forest bending low. Where Nature weaves Her own cold winding sheet of spotless snow ; But that all earthly things must see decay, Ere light shall shine with never-ending ray ■? 3- Pale, floating Leaves : What prove they on the swift but silent stream. Where soft Wave heaves, And on the golden prow the sun doth gleam ; But that the sands of Time unheeded fly. Find the unseen depths of Eternity 1 82 HEREFORDIA. 4- Pale, falling I^eaves : What say they on the bed of starry flowers, Where Beauty weaves A coronal, to hide the fleeting hours ; But the stern law, without exception made, That all must die, the brightest flower must fade 1 5- Pale, wasting Leaves : What say they in the charnel house of Death, Where Darkness weaves A gloomy pall, e'er stifling light and breath ; But that, like leaflets withering day by day, The whiten'd corses there must sink away^ 6, Yet Autumn Leaves Foretel an Earthly and a Heavenly Spring : This sure Hope gives (Gladdening the Universe with cheerful ring) To Nature and to Man's immortal mind. That both shall live again, renew'd, refin'd^ SUBJECT. Invocation to tlie Month of May. — The Agricultural Character of the County, paucity of Manuficturcs therein. — The County Towns. — Kington, Charles the Second and Mrs. Siddons there. — Leominster, Weobley, and Ledbury. — Ross. — The River Lugg. — Eminent Men conected with the County. — ^John Cuillim the Herald. — Roger of Hereford, Bishops Putta, Wilfred, Athelstane, Lozing, Kaynelm, Bruce, De Bethune, De Breton, Eox, Hoadley, Skipp, IMiles Smith, Huntingford, and Musgra\e. — Cardinal Wolsey once 1 lean. — ^Joanna de Bohun. — Henry the Fifth. — The Rev. Canon Phillips. — ^John Phillips the Poet. — Davis and Gerthenge, James Cornewell, is'ell Gwynne, Sir John Geers Cuttcrell, Sir Uvedale Price, Bart., Richard I'.iync Knight, Thomas Amlrew Knight, Sir Samuel Rush Meyrick, Dean Mere\\clher, Duncumb, Eosbrooke, Joseph Liul, James Wathen, John ^^'ebb. — W illiarn Havard. —David Garrick, Hr. Clarke Whitfield, Dr. John Bull. David Ccx, Charles Lucy, Benjamin Jennings, Jun. — PIsIk p (iillicil, Dean Langford, the Duchess of Somerset. — The Rev. Chaucclliir T.iylur, the Rev. Dr. Talbot, founder of the County Inhrmary. Rise, rise, sweet May, and let the day Thy opening glances take ! The Skylark's throat with silvery note, Bids thee from slumber wake ! On dale and hill, the Daffodil Shakes off the heavy dew ! The Cowslip bright doth greet the light. And welcomes Spring and you ! 86 HEREFORDIA. 2. O'er velvet lawn, the milk-white Fawn Gambols all blithe and free : On silken grass, both lad and lass Now foot it daintily ! A sluggard ne'er, with matted hair. Waste not fair Morning's breath ; ( )r, sallow cheek will soon bespeak A poison worse than death ! 3- To hail on lawn the Sun at dawn Brings cheerfulness and health ! The Bee on wing is gathering Her store of honey'd wealth ! To crown Thee queen with garland green. Thick set with Pink and Rose, A fairy band, link'd hand in hand, Doth lovingly propose ! 4- Away, away, where breezes play < )'er beds of soft perfume ! See, Flora leads to daisied meads A train of richest bloom ! HEREFORDIA. 87 Then rise, sweet May, and let the day Thy early kisses take ! The Skylark's throat, with silvery note Bids thee from slumber wake ! I. Herefordia e'er to agriculture given, There manufactures have but little thriven ; And thus, her towns are few and small, but fair. Not rich in art, but fixed midst beauties rare. Through Kington, placed by Radnor's hilly side. Sparkling and swift, the Arrow's waters glide. There, Charles, when outcast, and his fortunes frown'd. Ere Worcester's battle, safe asylum found ; Now, too, remains the Talbot-hostelry, Which shelter gave to fallen royalty ; There, Siddons first appeared in girlish age, The future queen of Britain's tragic stage. Whose name, with Garrick, Kemble, Powell, too. O'er Hereford no common halo threw. Then, Lem'ster, seated in a valley warm. And Weobley, cosy, snug, and safe from harm. HEREFORDIA. Enjoy sweet peace, in troublous times not known, When Stephen wore uneasily the crown. 'Midst fertile soil, Ledbury, Bromyard stand, AA'here apple, pear, and hop, enrich the land ; Nor distant far, Ross, with her wood-clad hills. O'er meads and corn-fields thick, complacent smiles ; A landscape pointing to the mind and eye. Such only found where flows the matchless Wye. Now quits the Muse her pleasing task to guide. But bids the thoughtful rambler turn aside. And ere, to Hereford he sighs, "Adieu!" Of Kelpeck Church and Castle take a view, Then Madley, with her decorated tower, Will hold the critic through a pleasant hour. I. Through a rich sweep of woods and meadows green. The lazy Lugg doth wind its quiet way ; Now hid by copses, then in valley seen. Till, with the Wye its yellow stream doth play. 2. Glide on, fair river ! as thy silent wave Flows from its tiny source to peaceful end, THE WYE, FROM THE PROSPECT, ROSS. "The Prospect boasts, besides its sacred head. The path which Kyrle delighted once to tread, With narrow purse, yet soul enlarged he bore Himself the friend of all the neighbouring poor." Canto ITI. HEREFORDIA. 89 | So may life gently ebb from birth to grave, Soothed by the thoughts which wisdom's path attend. 3- Steering a course that flees both rock and shoal, Delighting now in sunshine, now in shade, Noiseless and safe may Man attain the goal, Where Providence a place of rest hath made. 4- Who scans the book of Nature, doth not need Lessons of duty to the young or old ; Jehovah wills that he who runs may read. Where, knowledge yields, of price and form untold. 5- Who hath not seen beneath the crystal stream, The polish'd pebble, variegate and bright : Like sparkling gem it brilliantly doth gleam, All rich with beauty, rosy tint, and light? 6. Thus virtue shines in its own element ; A kindred soil its lustre multiplies. The future, mindful, gives to each event The meed of praise which present time denies. go HEREFORDTA. 7- A distant ray doth more intensely glow, Familiarity doth lessen worth ! Posterity, though late, doth justice do, When unrequited merit leaves the Earth. 8. A prophet hath no honour in his day, Nor earns he favour in his native land ; But when the sainted spirit flies away. His tomb is garnish'd by a stranger hand ! II. How Providence hath graced thy ancient shire, Old Hereford, the Muse with feeble lyre Hath sung ; and ere she close the lettered page, Whedier or not it lives a day, or age. Duty and lo\ e would fain her lay extend. Where fancies with the rural picture blend, — To scribe their names, whose virtue, deed, or mind Have ever ser\'ice done to human kind ! Then, who so fit to lead the goodly roll. As Guillim learned, witty, quaint old soul. Father of heraldr}-, and blazoned lore. On whose illumined tome the students pore, HEREFORDIA. 91 Puzzled with strange beasts, fishes, and a train Of symbols coined in mythologic brain ! Roger of Hereford, a century Ere Bacon lived, versed in astronomy, A treatise wrote upon Astrology, With book on metals couched most daintily. III. Few Sees can boast of bishops such a line, Whose learning, piety and goodness shine ; Lavish of gold they raised their ancient seat. The Minster grand, religion's calm retreat ! There, Putta, Milfred, ruled when first it rose, Athelstane next, who, (later scribes suppose). Founded the present pile. Then did succeed Lozing, Raynelm, Bruce, De Bethune : these, we read, The fabric finished. By the liberal aid Of Joanna de Bohun soon was made The Lady Chapel, glory of the place ! Of Bishops Booth and Audley then we trace The work ; and next, of Bishop Stanbury, The latter sent to Sarum's richer see. The list gives scholars great and not a few, De Breton, Fox, Hoadley, Skipp, (prelates, too) : 92 HEREFORD! A. The famed Miles Smith who Glo'ster's mitre w ore, And Huntingford his honours meekly bore. Musgrave beloved, alas ! too early gone, Then ably filled Saint Cantiliipe's fair throne, Who, rightly borne to Ebor's stately chair. Next ruled with firm but kindly spirit there. In him were blended, for his office high. Due meekness, reverence, and charity ; And best of all, the wisdom which doth teach Christ's minister to practice more than preach : He through long life observed Mith constant \ itw Precepts praised by many, kept but by few. Nor did the lofty Wolsey think too mean Of Hereford, and so was once its dean, Step lowest of the hill he dared to climb, Ne'er since attain'd, — rough, dangerous, yet sublime ! IV. Henry the Fifth, though on its confines born, Within the county hpent his childhood's morn, ^\'as bred at Bicknor, in the family Of the then powerful Earl of SalL-bury. Flis nurse's tomb, with effigy is set There, in the church of fair Saint Margaret. HEREFORDIA. 93 In later times, the canon Phillips claims Our praise, whose loyalty past history names. As having lodged some days at Withington Prince Charles, in the year sixteen fifty-one. After Worcester's .battle, when on his head A price was set, but happily not paid. Nor must we slight the good old clerk's grandson, John Phillips, who, our famous Cider on. In classic verse (with other poems) wrote. As bard and scholar stamping him with note. The poet Davies too, and Gerthenge, then Whom Fuller names as "having used the pen. The best in England." The first lived to be Master in writing to the Prince Henry ! If gallantry and courage, honored be. The noble Cornewall needs no eulogy ; Who, in his ship, the mighty Marlborough proved How English tars can fight ; how much he loved His country ; and, there, dying off Toulon, From the opposing hosts their praises won. v. Save, for one fault — and who is free from sini — The city needs not blush for fair Nell Gwynne, 94 HEREFORDIA. The once poor apple-girl, then favourite, Of gay King Charles, born near the palace-site, Where, long, her grandson. Lord James Beauclerc, wore Hereford's mitre. Honour well he bore To his ancestress ; her, ^^■hose charity, For our brave soldiers' weal her sympathy. The Ho:ri)iu"Ll at Chelsea did endow, A work of lij\'e which marks her memory now ! For sterling worth, the' fine old gentleman, The friend of rich and poor, we ne'er may scan, CJeers Cotterell's fellow. Whilst Garnons rears Its head, his name throughout succeeding years Will be the pleasing theme of old and young, Still dear to hearts, in their affections strong ! VI. For love of Nature, philosophic mind, In learning skill'd, all men of taste refin'd, U\Lil,ile Price, the gentle brothers. Knight, .\ trio form, rare, excellent, and bright ! To those delighting in black-lettered lore, A\'ho F'osbiook's, Meyrick's, Duncumb's works explore. Their deep research and patience will descry, Safe pioneers in art and history ! HEREFORDIA. 95 And Havard, come of low but honest birth, Claims eulogy for industry and worth. The generous aid his fortune freely shed On youth deserving, in the county bred : And deeply versed in archseologic field. Whose labours ancient treasure oft revealed. Uniting too, rich fund of anecdote. With local customs, and events of note, Dean Merewether, Wathen, Webb, and Bird, Will long be mention'd with a kindly word ! vii. Whilst Avon's Swan his magic sceptre sways. For deathless song, sweet poesy, and plays, Must Garrick's fame endure. His genius rife To Shakspeare's thoughts gave force, and fire, and life. Suiting the actor in his wondrous part. Absorbing person, character, and heart. Portrayed in narrow bound of mimic stage, Th' awaken'd spirits of a former age. Though late, yet loved, whilst sounds the sacred song. And voices soft in swelling measures throng, The hearers pause to catch the notes again, Th' impassion'd tones of Whitfield's solemn strain. 96 HEREFORDIA. And when the Nation's loyal anthem peals — " God save the Queen " upon the organ swells, The ancient College doth take honour full, Her hall associate with the fame of Bull, The author of that soul-inspiring song, Whose strains from year to year our tongues prolong. VIII. And whilst we care for learning, and for youth. Their early training and their moral growth. The Muse would speak with gratitude and pride ; For, Gilbert, Langford, Somerset, divide The noble work by them so well design'd. The school to educate our children's mind. Nor fails the hand which pens these feeble lays, To trace slight tribute of his love and praise, For one, whose guidance led, in truant youth. His early bent to science and to truth ! Nature, history, music, and the lore. On which the classic mind delights to pore, Find students here : so, homage Art receives. And o'er the youthful sculptor, Jennings, grieves ; '\^'ho, had he chanced maturer years to gain, \Vould not have plied his taste and skill in vain. HEREFORDIA. 97 With gifted pencil, Cox's veteran hand, In sparlding landscape held supreme command ; O'er tangled thicket, leafy lane, and dell. Threw sunny gleams, the rainbow's magic spell. Whilst, too, in glowing tints our painters speak, The canvas teems with Beauty's smiling cheek, And Lucy's genius ever will survive. The lineaments of Kyrle sublime shall live ! From England's annals, in her darker hour, Scenes, full of tragic incidents and power. His later works with vivid force portray. Worthy of Art in its most palmy day. IX. Spirit of Faith, of holy thought and word, Thy bhssful reign and sacred shrine record. Spirit of Faith, thy visions bright we see Through Jesus' Cross in Time's Eternity ! Spirit of Charity, thy teachings mild Disenthral the soul, leave it undefiled ; Prompting the heart to love, the hand to sliare The woes to which humanity is heir ; To soothe the wants of infancy and age. The chilling gripe of penury assuage. 98 HEREFORDIA. Thus shaped thy life, so sweet thy memory, That ne'er a monument shall needed be, Talbot ; whilst yon fair House with ample door, ^\'ith skill and comfort cheers the suffering poor Whilst Herefordia holds her honour'd name, Recorded, there, shall be thy lasting fame. 4^ -* '"'-■ /~ ' SUBJIXT. Song. — A Parallel between Foreign Countries and England. — Natural Tendency of Man to re.spect his Place of Birth. — Reflections on the Past, Present, and Future. — Appeal to the Reader. — Plereford as seen from Aylstone Hill and Brooniy Hill. — Allusion to Changes in the Scenery. — The Railway. — Increase of Plouses in the \'icinit\'. — May Dance on Broomy llill. — Reference to the Halterail, or P.laLk Mountain. — The Holy Mountain.— May-PIill and Mah-ern Flills. — The Catholic Cathedral at Pclmont. — The Two New Churches of St. Nicholas and St. Martin.— The Churches of St. Peter and All Saints, and the Cathedral. — Legend of the Spirit of the Wye. — The Hospitality shewn by the People of Herefordshire to Strangers. — The Generous Disposition of the Men. — High Character of the Female Sex. — The Produce of the County, Cattle, Sheep, I lorscs, Apples, Hops, Cyder, Fruit, and Corn. — The Gleaners' Song. — ^Mlusion to the fine Timber grown in the DiNlrict, and the celebrated Uak Trees at Sarnsfield, Eastwood, Mnci.is, and Eardisley. — Reflection on the great Blessings conferred by Pro\ idence on the Country generally, and the mutual Obligations under which Persons are ]Jaced one to the other, both as Individuals and Citizens. — Con- clusion. I. Away, away, to sunny lands and skies, Where cloud-wreath'd mountains don a cap of snow ! Away, away, where dark-eyed houri vies. And chains the heart with passion's fervid glow. Away, away, to Italy's soft clime, Where lake and streamlet lave the vine-clad vales ; Away, away, where tinkling cymbals chime. And fair-hair'd maidens chaunt their love-lorn tales. HEREFORDIA. Auay, away, where fields uf (iold abound, AVhere grape and pomegran't swell the wine-crown'd feast ; Away, away, \\here sparkling gems are found. To fairy gardens in the gorgeous East. 4- Away, away, and lake your pleasure's fill ; O'er Earth and Sea in search of Beauty roam Then sated, sigh for England's dale and hill, The jo\' and comfort of your own dear Home. 5- Slight not that Home of Liberty and Peace, The Land which yields thee wealth and social love ; A\'hose La\vs, to fetter'd Slaves, ensure release, And to thy Sons the Jiope of bliss abo\'e ! I. Distant and mean though be the spot of earth, A\'hich, once his home, still owns the wanderer's birth, \e\. thoughts and scenes familiar to the eye, (When age recurs to sparkling infanc)'). Return, like fancies in a morning dream, Prove but brief j())s, though real all would seem ! HEREFORD! A. 103 Bright was the sun of Hope in childhood's day, Lighter the heart that chased dull Care away ; The hearth more gay which held the social throng, Sweeter the voice that hymn'd the sacred song. The face remains (the form is gone above), With smiles that speak a parent's ceaseless love ; Like angels watching o'er a soul that tries. Vainly, to join them in their paradise ! How oft in gloomy haze the Future lowers. The Present weeps in melancholy hours. And yet the Past, by tender link, revives The bliss which love in kindred heart conceives ! II. Now tell me, dear Companion of my song, Wearied or pleased upon the wayside long, Com'st thou, a stranger from a land remote, With ear and eye quick to perceive and note ; Perchance, returning after years of toil. And grief, again thou tread' st thy native soil ; To clasp old friends in sweet and firm embrace. Once more the haunts of infant-years to trace 1 Then join me on the brow of Athelstane, Thence view the ancient City in the plain ; 104 HEREFORDIA. And climb again old Broomy's grassy hill, Where Contemplation loves to linger still. There, see the change so late come o'er the scene, \Miere Vaga flows through daisied banks serene ; These spann'd afresh with bridge of iron form, The path for Railway, broad, and strong, and warm ; Where shoots the engine with its valve of steam, A giant coursing with unearthly team, Tearing along by strange, expansive power. As many miles as minutes count the hour ! in. Nature yet smiles; but here and there intrude Clusters of houses on her neighbourhood ; With sounds of voices, marks of human feet, Outnumb'ring those we once, on May-morn sweet. Led through the dance in joyance and in ease. On Broomy's slope, beneath her aged trees. A screen from western winds, dark Hatterail By mountain-range protects the fertile vale : Where Hereford on Monmouth's border ends. High, steep, and clear, the Holy Mount ascends; Thence onward glancing, in the dappled east, May-Hill and Malvern's outlines soft are traced. HEREFORDIA. 105 But close at hand, where Behnont-woods surround, A gothic pile surmounts the rising ground, A rival beauty, viewing with disdain Saints Nicholas and Martin in the plain. These dwarf-like seem, when quietly survey'd Beneath the Minster's high and ample shade, Back'd by All Saints, Saint Peter's tap'ring fane. Whence Lacey fell, — by accident was slain. Who roams along the River's peaceful shore, Recalling incidents of Legend-lore, Can fail to raise the soul's ecstatic part, Mark scenes which please the eye and touch the heart ; Watching the hours, as on the Dial's face, The march of Time all silently they trace ? I. List to the young Lark's carol high, Soft warbling through the Summer sky ; See, see, the Sun's declining beam, With golden streak, paints Vaga's stream : All clothed in shadows deep and red, Fair Belmont lifts her classic head. And breathing sweets o'er bank and bower, Now welcomes Evening's soothing hour. io6 HEREFORDIA, 2. The busy crowd doth cease to bear Theh" wonted burthens, toil, and care. The Wind, o'erstrain'd, its functions flies ; Labour in quiet shimbtr lies : And Pain and Sorrow, eased, forego Their keenest pang, their bitterest woe ; Ambition slacks its onward race, Rti>ii.-,c now reigns o'er Nature's face. As Day recedes behind the ^\'est, Kissing the clouds on Heaven's brea.st. Grey twilight hails the crescent Moon, Quetn of the Night in balmy June : And \roo(-d by Zephyr's breath serene, Mute Contemplation ^■iews the scene, Vi'here near the River's liquid way, IJeauty and Love enraptured stray. 4- Now lost for once in silvery shroud, Pale Luna hides in fleecy cloud : Hark ! trilling on the ravish'd ear. Sweet Philomel sings soft and clear, HEREFORDIA. to; And darting from the osiers' side, A fairy skiff ascends the tide : Plaintive and low, a maiden's wail Now emulates the sigliing gale. 5- In slender shallop, swift and light, The River-Spirit haunts the Night ; Repeats her lone unhappy tale, All widow'd, joyless, thin, and pale. Shaping her" course where once did gleam. Her lover's barque on Vaga's stream, She still pursues the midnight-wave, With dirge laments his bloody grave. 6. " Weave me a ■vvreath, a cypress wreath, Bring streamers from the willow grove ; Senseless and cold the sod beneath. Lies all I mourn, lies all I love. " Weave me a wreath, a cypress wreath. And with me weep, fair swan, and dove ; Wasting and low, the sod beneath. Lies all I've lost, lies all I love. io8 HERKF()];DIA. " Light of my soul, star of my life, Nature, and I for thee must mourn. Till death shall end my pining grief, Our ashes mingle in one urn." IV. If stranger rove within this ancient shire, The rambler finds the kindest welcome here : Generous and warm, the sons of Hereford All comers greet, at their well-furnish'd board. Rig] it cold is he to female beauty's charm. If thy fair daughters ne'er his heart disarm. By grace, good-nature, and fresh, blooming cheek, Armour 'gainst which Creation's lords are weak ! True love and loyall}-, like roses, twine, So e'er unrivall'd do thy maidens shine. If monarchs be by rustic beauty won. Folk smaller must the soft impeachment own : Hound, soft and crimson'd as the apples fair. Their lips enticing, and resistless are ; Who tastes them once, will suiely ne'ei- refrain, Ere he f agcts to steal a kiss again. GOODRICH COURT, AND GOODRICH CASTLE. ' Within few steps, the stranger may descry Fair Goodrich Court and Castle rising high." Canto III. HEREFORDIA. 109 V. The strength and sinew which thy yeomen yield, To guard their homes, and plough the fertile field ; The fleecy flocks and kine of purest breed ; Horses for draught, or train'd to greater speed ; Large stores of edibles to market borne, With apples, cyder, hops, and fruit, and corn, Form but few items of the ample hoard, The staple growth of fine old Hereford. Then, hear the Gleaners' Song, its loud encore. Through green glades, hark ! their joyous strains now pour. Hie to the busy field, the busy field. Where poppies wave so lightly. Then thread the meads, where lambs conceal'd, E'er join in frolics sprightly. 2, Bright as the Sun, that cheers the day, The Reaper's Sickle gleameth ; And swift as lightning clears its way. Where yellow Barley streameth ! HEREFORDIA. 3- Then up the hill, and down the dale, Come, lasses, trip it Ughtly; O'er hedge and ditch, through brake and vale Where Fairies pace it nightly. 4- Rise, quickly rise, and brush the dew, ^Vhich drapes brown Autumn's morning ; Thick clover-grass fast scamper through. To glean the Corn at dawning. Kind Providence guards rich and poor, His mercy ever bideth ; For great and small, His boundless store A Harvest full provideth. 6. Then ridge by ridge o'er fields now roam : The largest sheaf he beareth,^ Who, ere he takes his burthen home, Nor time nor labour spareth ! VI. Here, too, the Oak, the forest-king appears. Of aspect nolilc, rich in shade and years, HEREFORDIA. With lofty elm, the graceful ash and yew, The beech and willow, pride of sylvan view, Whose leaves prove grateful to the feather'd throng, Which cheers the summer day with tuneful song. He rightly sees thy sylvan glories shine. Where stature, strength, and grand proportions shine, Their giant limbs extending broad and high, At Sarnsfield, Eastwood, Moccas, Eardisley ; Who then doth think how many pelting storms, And wintry blasts have rack'd their stalwart forms, Must own the Power which rears from tiny seed Such wondrous trees, must be Divine indeed. The work of man, to live a day, a year, Wants constant care, material repair ; But Providence to plants, in age and youth. Vouchsafes self-nurture, self-defence, and growth : By such gives shelter to the beast and bird. On all both use and ornament conferr'd ! VII. Since Providence hath bless'd the fruitful land. His bounties scatter'd with a liberal hand ; Should not the mind its denizens e'er train To thoughts and works, wherein their interests join ? HEREFORDIA. Who wealth enjoys, to him a trust is given, T' administer the sacred gift of Heaven ; To migitate stern Want and Poverty, Encourage useful Knowledge, Industry ; Respect the rights which man from man may aslc. Make equal laws, the sage's noblest task. If this were done. Corruption soon must cease, And hated War succumb to arts of Peace ; No tricksters, then for public place and pay, Would e'er debase the crowd in open day ; Nor forced by petty shifts to hold their rule. Ne'er rob the State, the Nation's sense befool. Small evils are not cared for, so we bear The yoke, until it be too bad to wear. Nor till their reign a rankling nuisance grows, To crush it will the Public Mind propose : Who dares, by wiles, to win your confidence. To pilfer next, will quickly make pretence. VIII. Diogenes, to find an honest man. With lamp in hand the thoroughfares did scan. The Muse, to seek a statesman great and true. Must lantern use, and double glasses too ! HEREFORDIA. 113 Red tape, and nepotism, and low deceit, Now form, alas ! the common counterfeit : From rulers such let all devoutly pray That fate will rid us at an early day. Should Patriots again (a race like Peel), Within Saint Stephen's Hall their light reveal. The Muse might hail Britannia's sky more clear. Reform and Progress, stars ascendant there. Where England reigns, by far a higher aim Than empty sov'reignty should wreath her name. Conquest alone can give no moral right To stranger-lands, to rule by threat and might. For practised wrongs possession is no plea ; Civilization, — Christianity Are but the cover to Hypocrisy, When made the means of loss and misery To people far-removed, who neither need England's doubtful friendship, her rule, or aid. Thy recent trials in the troubled East, Where civil discord made a bloody feast, Should e'er a warning and a lesson prove. Those, who would reign by force and not by love, 114 HEREFORDIA. Will, soon or late, in fearful conflict be ^Vith the sad objects of their cruelty ; Nor will the foe Death's messenger recall, E'en though the guiltless with the guilty fall. IX. 'Tis best be poor, than feel the galling stain Of fraud and wrong assail our smallest gain ; Ill-gotten wealth hath wings and curses too, Pangs bitterer than griping Want e'er knew : 'J'hen, say, Britannia, (the World's fair Queen), Is thy sceptre bright, thy hand fair and clean 1 Though to thy sway thy sons allegiance owe. Yet, there are duties thou may'st not forego ; To comfort, aid, encourage by reward, The men whose lives thy island-fortress guard ; To keep implicit faith in work and word, So that thy pledge to others' be preferr'd ; To stifle strife, befriend the poor and weak. To do the right thou dost in precepts speak ; Justice to lo\e, and so exemplify, By holy deeds, thy Christianity ! How comes it then, that Lucre pa^•eH the way To thy councils : that ^\'ealth, in grand ana)', HEREFORDIA. 115 All honour wins ; that Vice, in splendour set, Is current passport to a Coronet 1 How fare thy brave defenders, rough but true 1 Requited how the perils they go through 1 Privations, hardships, ever bear a price. Four groats a day may possibly suffice ; And what, for faults, how venal though they be. The knotted scourge is't fitting penalty 1 A sin so foul, the Muse would fain disclaim ; But England owns it, to her lasting shame ! To say "that Britons never shall be slaves," Is idle boast, whilst o'er thy children waves The hateful lash. Far worse than slaves they be. The mangled victims of such tyranny ! The Law which such injustice perpetrates. The State which wanton Torture tolerates. In Christian practice have no real place. Wanting its Mercy, Charity, and Grace ! X. Ere quits the Muse, a scene so soft and fair, Which breathes of home, and parents' early care. She now would weave in this, her parting song, Their honour'd names, whose love so deep and long, ii6 HEREFORDIA. A glow of sunshine throws around her heart, Not to be quench'd till life and she shall part ! To wish them here, were idle, wild, and vain, To vex their souls with mortal coils again ; Their present bliss this would too keenly mar, The which her anxious Mind must yearn to share : And distant though the sweet re-union be, Hope augurs joy as grows its certainty ! XI. Farewell, then, Herefordia ! Thy pure fame Is to the Bard dear as his humble name. Thy ancient boundary speaks to him of home . Whate'er he sees, where'er his footsteps roam, Recall sweet memories, such as may no more Be tasted, save on Heaven's eternal shore. Where all things shine with glory, life, and hght, The Father, Son, and Spirit Infinite ! The theme is endless, and the Muse too weak Thy beauties all in fitting words to speak, She, loth, must flee to ruder scenes afar, Where, congregated thousands, hustling jar ; Where, trade and commerce busy traffic drive, The scholar, politician earnest strive. HEREFORDIA. 117 And ermined lawyers sit in grave debate, Adjusting grievous wTongs in Churcli and State. XII. Adieu ! Herefordia ! — Farewell ! sweet Wye ! On thy green banks fain would I listless lie, Court soothing Sleep, sister of pulseless Death, Closing the eye, but not the living breath ; And binding Reason, whilst, through airy groves Unchained and loose. Imagination roves : Revels in dreams, which, like to frosted flowers. Fly, when the sun of life his morn-beam showers : And when exhausted proves the vital sand, My soul is wafted to the better land. Let friendly hands, with simple tribute, trace A corner there for my last resting place ! XIII. Next to our Kindred doth our Country come, The spot which gives us birth, our childhood's home. No object, there, of beauty, love, or tie. In after-years escapes the meinory. ii8 HEREFORDIA, As the pure Soul doth yearn for holy Truth, The Mind reviews the haunts of early youth : Where'er we wander, be it east or west, That place, recall'd, appears the last and best. So, did the Muse this pleasing task essa}-, With Herefordia link her lengthen'd lay. END OF THE 1'0F.^T. CANTO I. The County of Hereford comprises a portion of tlie ancient Siluria wliich extended over Monmouthsliire, the Forest of Dean, and the whole of South Wales, except the County of Pembroke. This district was inhabited by the Dimets Tribes. That part of Here- fordshire, lying west of the parish of Byford, and now stretching to Radnorshire and Brecon, is said to have been formerly in- cluded in Wales. A portion of the localities enumerated in the poem, — namely Ludlow, Tintern, and Chepstow, — do not properly belong to the County of Hereford ; but, they are comprised in the Diocese, which extends over a large portion of Shropshire, and a part of Monmouthshire. " /« deep defile, beneath the granite coney The range of hills, known as tlie Plinlimmon, situate partly in the Counties of Radnor and Montgomery, commences a few miles above the Town of Rhayader. In these hills, the highest point of which rises 2463 feet above the level of the sea, is the spring from which the River Wye (anciently called the Vaga, from its meander- ing course) originates. The source also of its sister stream, the Severn, is to be found in the same mountain-district. The Wve, as 122 HEREFORDIA. indicated in tlie poem, descends from its hilly bed, and on its way forms a wide and beautiful cataract, a short distance from Rhayader, where it finds its le\el. It passes from thence to Penybont, Builth, Hay, Hereford, Ross, Monmoutli, and Chejistow, falling about two miles below the latter place, into the broad channel of the Severn. The Plinlimmon Hills, although of high elevation, comprise a series of undulating surfaces rather than a mountainous ridge of \ery prominent elevation. These hills, by their peculiar form, afforded a slielter to the renowned ^\'clsh chieftain, Owen (den- dwr, Avho, with a force only of 120 men, in the year 1401, was enabled, for several months, to withstand the attacks of an army greatly superior both in numbers and appliances. " The river u>i)tds Hav church and castle nigh." The town of Hay, or, as it is usually styled, "The Hav,'' situate on the confines of Brecon, is only separated from Herefordshire by the ri\ er "Wye. It has some historical associations with the doings of Llewellyn and King John. By the latter, the castle was destroyed, in the )X'ar 1216, and, with the exception of a gothic gateway, there are not now any remains of much intere.st to the antiquarian. It is a singular fact, that the town of Monmouth is similarly separated from Herefordshire only by the AX^e. Ludlow also abuts on the county, being isolated from it by the river Teame ; and Hereford- shire, in like manner, adjoins XVorcestcrsliire, close to the town of Tenbury. The town of Xcw Radnor, also, is situate not far dis- tant from Herefordshire, on its south-western boundary. " So (/roof's Dc ClifforiTs sironghohi bleak and bare!' " Clifford ( 'astle," which stands upon the north bank of the ri\-er Wye, was built by William Lit/l )/l)iirne, Earl of Hereford, but was held at the time of the Dooms{la\- Book by Rudolphus de Totenie. It was ac(]uired liy the Cliftbrds by the marriage of Walter Fitz- Richard with iMargaret, daughter of Ralph de Cundy. A\'alter Fitz-Richard, being a descendant of Richard 11., Duke of Normandy, whose father accompanied the C'iin(|ueror into England, and, having married the heiress of Ralph de C'undv, of Cliftbrd Castle, took the name of De Clifford. The place continued to be the baronial seat of the family for two cenUiries. Here was born the too celebrated lad\', of whom Dryden says: — " [anc Cliflnrd ^\ as her iinmc, os IkxjIvs declare, l''.iir RtisxniofKt wMs l)iit lier )ioiii rick), is situate about three miles from Ross, and contains a fine collection of armour, collected by the late .Sir Samuel Rush Meyrick, who erected the mansion. The Keep is the most ancient portion of the fine old ruin of Goodrich Casde. It was composed of three stories, each consisting of a single small room, the lowest being the prison, without even a loop-hole to admit air or hght. The original windows are considered to be the most truly Saxon that can be. In the middle story, a stone frame for glass seems to have been inserted, and the st>le points to the time of Henry VL, and probably made by the celebrated Earl Talbot, who tenanted one of these chambers. The dungeon is sup- posed to have been erected in the time of Edward III., when Richard Talbot obtained the royal licence for converting his dungeon into a state prison. All that is known of the origin of the castle is, that a fort, held by a doomsday-book proprietor, of the name of Goldrick, or Goodrick (hence the name "Goodrich"), covered the ford of the river at this place before the (Conquest. In 116;,, the casde became the property of the Earl of Pembroke, the then lord of the district from Ross to Chepstow. In 1347, it was the seat of the Talbot family, who founded a I'riory of Black Canons at Manesford, which is now a barn, about a quarter of a mile from the castle. During the Ci\'il \Vars, the fortress pla\ed a con- spicuous ])art, being taken and retaken by the opposing parties ; first for the Parliament, but it was subse(|uendy taken by Sir Richard Lingen, who, in i64ri, defended it for fi\e months against Colonel Birch. It was, excepting the (Jasde of Pendennis, the last castle TINTERN ABBEY. " Hail, fair TinterD ! whether or not it be In winter's dreary hour, when gloomily The harsh wind blows, all biting, cold, and loud, And earth lies ice-bound, wrapt in snowy shroud : On vernal morn, when o'er thy sacred ground, The young grass springs, and Nature smiles around ; In summer, when the sun shines warm and brig^^t, The skylai'k trilling in the azure height; Or in brown autumn, decked with changing leaves, When garners full, fruit blushing, golden sheaves Rejoice the heart of man, — I visit thee ; Tintern, thou still hast deathless charms tnr me." Canto III. NOTES TO CANTO III. 131 which held out for the king, Charles I. In the following year, it was ordered by the Parliament "to be totally disgarrisoned and slighted"; and so it became a ruin, just at a point of the river Wye where such an object is most picturesque and interesting. " Hail fair Tinteni, whether or not it be, In winter's dreary hour, when gloomily^ Tintern Abbey, although one of the oldest of the Cistercian com- munities of this country, was not famous either for its wealth or the number of its members ; and at the dissolution contained only thirteen monks, supported by a rental of from £200 to £300, at the highest calculation. Dugdale returns the revenue at £132 is. \A.., and Speed at £256 iis. 6d. Its splendid situation on the banks of the Wye, coupled with the elegance of its architectural design may, however, challenge comparison with the finest ecclesiastical monu- ments in the United Kingdom. The abbey was founded in the year 1 131, by Walter de Clare, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; but its endowments were greatly increased by Gilbert de Strongbow, Lord of Striguil and Chepstow, and afterwards Earl of Pembroke. The establishment consisted of Cistercians, or White Monks, introduced to England only three years before, when they setded at Waverley in Surrey. The founder of the church was Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk ; and the conse- cration of the choir (the first portion finished) took place in 1268 ; and, in the body of the churchy which is the most interesting part of the ruins, the architecture is of a style long subsequent. It was built in the regular cathedral-form, with a nave, north and south aisles, transept and choir, and a tower, which stands in the centre. In the choir of the abbey was buried Maud, Countess of Pembroke and Marshal of England, her body being borne into the church by her four sons. " Then visit Chepstow, old and quiet toion." Chepstow Castle i? supposed to have been originally built by Juhus Csesar. In the reign of Henry I. it was possessed by the Clare family, of whom Robert de Clare (surnamed, like his father. Strong- bow), is famous for his Irish adventures, It afterwards came, by the marriage of a daughter of Robert Strongbow (who had no male issue), to William, Marshal of England, Lord Protector of the King- dom j and, by the marriage of his daughter, it fell to Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk. This daughter was Maud, who was in her widow- 1,52 HEREFORDIA. hood created Marshal, in \irtue of her descent, the king, Henry III., solemnly giving the truncheon into her hand. She was buried at Tin- tern, in 1248, her body being carried into the choir by her four sons. The castle was subsequently sold to the Earl of Pembroke, whose heiress, Elizabeth, carried it to Sir Charles Somerset, afterwards Earl of \\'orcester. During the Ci\'il "Wars, it was a place of great im- portance. It was, in 1645, given with other lands to ()li\er Crom- well ; but was at the Restoration again possessed by the Somerset family, who now enjoy it. Here, Henry Marten, one of the regicides of Charles I., was confined for twenty years, where he died at the age of seventy-eight, and was buried in the chancel of the parish church of Chepstow. CANTO IV. " Go, trace the glebe from Salop's bounding line!' The river Teame, flowing beneath the walls of Ludlow Castle, divides the counties of Hereford and Salop, Ludford House, for- merly the seat of the Charlton family, being within a few hundred yards of the bridge. Berrington is the seat of Lord Rodney, and Hampton Court (once the property of the Coningsby famil)', and afterwards of the Earl of Essex), now belonging to J. H. Arkwright, Em]., are situate within three miles of the town of Leominster. Stoke Edith Park, lying midway between Hereford and Ledbury, is the seat of the Right Hon. Lady Emily I'ole)', relict of the late Edward Thomas Fole\-, Esq., one of the former representatives of Hereford.shire in parliament. Kastnor Castle, the noble residence of Earl Somers, was erected about thirty years since, and is romantically situate within four miles of Ledbury, and about three miles from Mahern Hills and the Herefordshire Beacon. " The Earh of Hereford, once />o-Loerfid thanes" AMien the Mercian kingdom was subdued by Egbert, the title of I'.arl of Mercia was gi\-en to a \icero\', whose ])0\\'er at the first being that of a tributary sovereign, gradually declined. On the removal of Leofric from Hereford to Coventry, a.d. 1040, Swe)n, the eldest son of (Jodwin, was made Earl of Hereford; but bemg NOTES TO CANTO IV. 133 banished for treason eleven years afterwards, was succeeded by Ranulph, who was defeated by Algar and the Welsh, ad. 1055. Although a Norman, he was displaced by the Conqueror, and his earldom granted to William Fitz-Ozborne, a relative and adviser of the king, together with extensive landed possessions, in defence of which he at least strengthened Chepstow Castle. His son Bigod, surnamed De Breteuil, having Joined the Earl of Norfolk in a con- spiracy against William Rufus, was deprived of his property, and condemned to perpetual imprisonment. The title and possessions were next granted to Milo Fitz- Walter, Earl of Brecknock, who in the time of Henry IV., erected the castle of St. Briavels, on the east bank of the Wye, a few miles below Monmouth, the abbey of Llanthony, and the priory of the same name, at Gloucester. This warrior and architect supporting the Empress Maud, the earldom was given by Stephen to Robert de Bossu, Earl of Leicester, a grandson of Bigod de Breteuil, upon which Milo retired to Llanthony, where he died. On the accession of Henry II., the title and possession passed to Roger, eldest son of Milo ; thence upon his death, occasioned by an arrow whilst hunting, to his brothers, Henry and Mahel, and after- wards to Humphrey de Bohun, who had married their eldest sister, Margery, and had no fewer than seven successors of the same name ; of these, the most eminent was Constable of England in the time of Edward I., who with Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, extorted from that monarch the Charter of 1298, which for ever exempted the English from payment of any tax levied without the consent of their parliamentary representatives. On the death, in 1373, of the seventh Earl Humphrey, whose monument is in the Lady Chapel of the cathedral, the male line ceased, and the property of the De Bohuns was divided between his two daughters, Eleanor, wife of Thomas de Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, and sixth son of Edward HI., and Mary, who married Henry, Earl of Derby, son of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. Henry was created Duke of Hereford in 1377, and upon his suc- cession to the throne, in 1399, the earldom of Hereford was con- ferred on Edmund Stafford, Earl of Buckingham, son-in-law of Thomas de Woodstock, who fell in the battie of Shrewsbury, 1403, whilst fighting for the king. His son Humphrey (the eighth of that name), the friend and supporter of Henry VI., was created Duke of Buckingham, and fell on the Lancastrian side, at Northampton, in 1460, leaving his grandson, Henry, as heir. One half of his pro- 134 HEREFORDIA. pertywas seized by the sovereigns of the House of York, as co-heirs, but tlieir heir claimed restitution successfully from Richard III., who was placed on the throne through his exertions. Becoming disgusted with the new monarch, he took up arms in favour of the Earl of Richmond, and was arrested and executed at Salisbury, in 1483. Since that period, the titles and possessions of the De Bohuns have been merged in the Enghsh crown. " The viscoimts of Hereford, the oldest kinuoii" The \iscounty of Hereford has been held for sixteen generations by the De\ereux famih', and was conferred in i,',,")0 ', it is the premier peer of that rank in England. Robert de E\reux, or Ervrus, was one of the Norman leaders in the battle of Hastings. His descend- ant, Sir \Valter Devereux, had estates at Bodenham and Whitchurch, being Sheriff of Herefordshire in 137 1 and 137'). A subsequent baronet of the same name, «ho, on his mother's side, came from the De Bohuns, got the title of Viscount Hereford from Henry A'HL, for his services in the French wars of that time. The barony of Ferrers, and the earldom of Essex and Ewe, descended to this house on the maternal side ; but ceased in 1646, on the death, without issue, of Robert, the third earl, a general in the Parliamentary army. Robert, father of the last-named, was the distinguished and unfortunate favourite of Queen Elizabeth, " Lord Cantilupe (the bishofs brother), he, Time, second Edwards, built the Jdoiiastery.'' The remains of the ancient Monastery and Pulpit Cross of the Black Friars, situate at \\'idemarsh-L;ate, were restored at the ex- pense of the late John Arkwright, Esij., of Hampton Court, near Leominster. That estate is charged with the support of Coningsby's Hospital, immediately adjoining the ruins, which was instituted in 1 6 14, by Sir Thomas Coningsb)-, Ivnight, being the only private military hospital in the kingdom. The vicarage of Bodenham, in which parish Hampton Court is situate, was directed, in a codicil to the founder's will, to be given to the successi\e chaplains of this hospital. " The ll'hite Cross (Bishop Charlton's work) records." During the prevalence of the Black Death, or Plague, in the city, in 1347, the markets for the sale of provisions necessary for the NOTES TO CANTO IV. 135 inhabitants within the walls, were held on the spot now occupied by the White Cross, about one mile and a quarter west of the city. This rehc was erected some years afterwards by Bishop Lewis Charlton, whose monument in the cathedral bears the same heraldic device, a hon rampant. The prelacy of this bishop was from 1361 to 1369; and he is supposed to have been descended from the Charlton family, who were formerly Earls of Powis. " In presence of their lord, the first King James. When flourished matiy fine old English games, Ten persons did peifiornt most jollily, A Morrice Dance before His Majesty^ Ralph Wigley, one of the persons who, in the year 16 13, joined in the morrice dance performed before King James I., is said to have been 132 years old. " And Baskerville 7nuch to his Highness' sport. Stout sons, a score-and-one, he took to court." The patriarchal person alluded to, was Sir Roger de Baskerville, the last most eminent member of that once very powerful family, whose then representative accompanied the Conqueror into England. To his ancestor was granted Eardisley Castle, with other large pos- sessions, in the western portion of the county. Several direct descendants of the old knight, and the present personal representa- tives of the race, are still resident at Weobley. " Compact and nestling on the church-crowned hill, Fair Ludlow stands with antique gables still!' The town of Ludlow, which name is of Saxon origin, and formerly spelled " Leadlowe," or, " Ludlowe," was called by the Britons " Dinan," or the " Palace of Princes," and appears to have been dis- tinguished for its importance prior to the Norman Conquest. At that time, Robert de Montgomery, kinsman of William the Con- queror, fortified the town with walls, and erected the greater part of its stately castle, which he made his baronial residence until his death, in 1094. On the attainder of his son, Robert de Mont- gomery, the castle passed to Henry I., who made it a royal residence, greatly enlarging and embellishing it ; and having strengthened the fortifications, placed in it a powerful garrison, under the command of Gervase Pagnell. He, in the following reign, having embraced 136 HEREFORDIA. the cause of Matilda, held it for a considerable time against the forces of Stephen, by whom it was besieged in person, assisted by Henry, son of the King of Scotland. This prince, drawn up from his horse by an iron hook, was rescued from incarceration by the courage and address of the English monarch. Ludlow, from its proximity to ^Vales, was always a station of im- portance, and a strong garrison was consta-ntly kept up in the castle, for the defence of the frontier from the incursions of the Welsh. In the reign of Henry III., an order was issued from the castle for all the Lords-Marchers to repair to this place, attended by their fol- lowers, to assist Roger Mortimer, at that time governor, in restrain- ing the hostilities of the Welsh. And in the forty-seventh year of the same reign, Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, who had joined the confederated barons, assisted by Llewellyn, Prince of \\'ales, attacked the caslle with their united forces, and having set it on fire, nearly demolished it. In the reign of Edward II., Roger Mortimer, a descendant of the famous governor, having joined the discontented barons, was sent prisoner to the Tower of London, from which he effected his escape ; and in commemoration of his success, erected, in the outer ward of Ludlow Castle, a chapel, which he dedicated to St. Peter, and endowed it for a priest to celebrate mass; but being arraigned for high treason, in the reign of Edward III., he was publicly executed at Tyburn. In the reign of Henry VI., Richard, Duke of York, who then had possession of the castle, detained John Sutton, Lord Dudley, Re- ginald, Abbot of Glastonbury, and others, in confinement here ; and issued from this place his declaration of allegiance to the king, which he also repealed some years after on the defeat of Lord Audley, at Blore Heath ; but on his subsequent insurrection and attainder, the king laid siege to the castle, and, having taken it, stripped it of all its ornaments. The town was plundered of every- thing valuable by his soldiers. The Duchess of York, A\ith her two younger sons, was taken prisoner and confined for some tune in one of the outer towers of the castle. After the death of the Duke of York, at the battle of ^\'akefield, the castle descended to his son, Edward, Earl of March, afterwards Edward IV. The young king, Edward \'., and his brother, the Duke of York, lived in the castle, under the superintendence and protection of Earl Rivers, till their removal by order of the Duke of Gloucester (afterwards Richard III.), to the Tower of London, where they were barbarously murdered. Prince Arthur, son of Henry VII., resided NOTES TO CANTO V. 137 here after his nuptials with Catherine of Arragon, in 1501, and kept a splendid court until his decease in the following year. In the reign of Henry VIII., a kind of local government, called the " Council in the Marches of Wales," was established at Ludlow, consisting of a lord president, as many councillors as the prince chose to appoint, a secretary, an attorney, and four justices of the Principality, the lord president residing in the castle. During the Parliamentary Wars, the castle held out for the king, Charles I., under the command of the Earl of Bridgewater, but finally surrendered to the Parhament. Frequent skirmishes took place in the town, between the contending forces, in one of which Sir Gilbert Gerrard, brother to the Earl of Macclesfield, was killed. Opposite the entrance gateway is the Hall, in which was per- formed by the children of the Earl of Bridgewater, the celebrated " Masque of Comus," composed by Milton, and founded on an incident which occurred to the family of that nobleman soon after his appointment to the presidency. In Mortimer's Tower, the poet, Butler, after the Restoration, wrote several cantos of " Hudibras." The remains of the castle, with its massive walls and picturesque towers, still exhibit traces of its original grandeur, forming a most interesting and venerable ruin, situate on the summit of an eminence of grey-stone rock, overhanging the river Teame, which separates the town of Ludlow from the adjacent county of Hereford. CANTO V. '■'■And, thtiS, her Towns are small, andfeiv, hut fair!' The town of Kington is of considerable antiquity, prettily situated on the banks of the river Arrow ; and, here, the manufacture of chintz and gloves was once extensively carried on ; the former has, however, ceased altogether, and the latter is much diminished. King Charles II. is said to have visited the town prior to the Battle of Worcester, and to have slept at the Talbot Inn, still standing in Bridge-street. Near to it is a barn, where the tragic actress, Mrs. Siddons, who was born at Brecon, made one of her first pubUc ap- pearances on the stage. The church dedicated to St. Michael, is an ancient structure, standing in a large burial-ground, beautifully situate, and commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. A Free Grammar School was founded here, pursuant to the will of 1,33 HEREFORDIA. Lady Hawkins, who, in 1619, bequeathed money for the purchase of an esta'e, which, thirty years since, produced £224 los. per annum. The hving is a vicarage, uniting, also, the curacies of Brilley, jMichaelchurch, and Huntington. ( )n Bradnor liill, about a mile north of the town, there are traces of an ancient camp ; and there is a rocky eminence in the vicinity, called Castle Hill, though it does not appear that any castle stood there, or that it was the site of an encampment. A chapel is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake m this place, about 500 years since. Leominster (according to Leland) derives its name from a minster or monastery, founded here by Merewald, King of \\'est IV'Iercia, about 660, and that Saxon prince is said to ha\e had a castle or palace about half-a-mile eastward of the town ; a fortress, also, was standing on the same spot in 105.-;, when it was seized by the \\'elsh chieftains, and fortified. ,\t the time of the Norrnan sur\e}-, the manor, with its appurtenances, was assigned by Edward the Con- fessor to his Queen Editha ; in the reign of ^\'illianii Rufus, the fortifications were strengthened, to secure it against the incursions of the \\'elsh. In the reign of John, the town, priory, and church were plundered and burned by William de Braos, Lord of Breck- nock ; in the time of Henry lY., it was in possession of Owen Glendwr, after he had defeated the Earl of March. In the next centiir)', the inhabitants of the town took a decisive part in the establishment of J\^lr^• on the throne, for which service she granted the first charter of incorporation, about 1554- The monastery founded by Merewald, ha\-ing been destroyed by the Danes, a college of preliendaries, and, subsequently, an abbey of nuns, were established here ; but these institutions were destroyed previously to the time of Edward I., 'wlio endowed the abbey of Reading with the monaster\- of Leominster, to which it afterwards became a cell ; its re\enue, at the dissolution, being £660 i6s. 8d. The charter of incorporation, recei\ed from (Jueen jMar>', ^^as confirmed and extended b\' subsequent sovereigns. The last was granted by Charles II., in ir'(', /('/- ('//(■ fault, and loho is free from sin, The city need not blush for fair Xell Uvyni' Ellen, or Eleanor Gwyn, was of \\'elsli extraction (and although the place of her birlh has been supposed by some persons to be in the Coal-3ard, Drury-lanc, by others in the city of London, and in Oxford), was born, February 2nd, 1650, in Pij)e-lane (now called (Iwvn-street), in a cottage contiguous to the palace, which her grand- son. Lord James Beauclerk, the then bishop, pulled down, and included its site in the episcopal grounds. " Uvedale I'riee, the gentle brothers Kn'ght, .1 trio firm, rare, exeellent and bright" Sir Uvedale Price, Bart, of Foxlcy (the father of the late Sir Robert Price, for many )'ears member for the county and cit\- of NOTES TO CANTO V. 145 Hereford, and with whom the baronetcy ceased), was a very learned and accomplished scholar, and the author of an "Essay on the Picturesque." Richard Payne Knight, of Downton Castle, was a rare instance of high intellect combined with great philanthropic feeling and practice. He was a very humane man, and warmly attached to literary pursuits ; and, in furtherance of these objects, lived in great retirement, surrendering to his younger brother, Thomas Andrew Knight, his splendid paternal estate. He was the author of an "Analytical Essay on the Greek Alphabet"; an "Analytical Enquiry into the Principles of Taste," a " Monody on the Death of the Right Hon. Charles James Fox," and other works. He left a valuable collection of Papers and Manuscripts to the nation, which are now deposited in the British Museum. Thomas Andrew Knight, whose name has been previously men- tioned, was President of the Horticultural Society, and contributed very valuable works on agricultural and other subjects ; amongst which are, a " Pamphlet on Mr. Forsyth's Method of filling up with Plaister the Holes in Trees" (1802); also publications on the "Ne- cessity of a Commutation of Tithes" (1804 and 1834); a "Report of the Committee of the Horticultural Society" (1841) ; a " Selection of Physiological and Horticultural Papers" (1841) ; the " Culture of the Pear and Apple" (1797) ; but his most celebrated work is the " Pomona Herefordiensis," illustrated with coloured engravings (1811). " To those delighting in black-letter lore. Who Fosbrookis, Meyrick's, DunannUs works explore." The Rev. Thos. Dudley Fosbrooke, a learned scholar and anti- quary, was Rector of Walford, and the author of an " Encyclopedia of Antiquities," and " Elements of Archaeology, Classical and Me- diseval" (1825); the " Tourist's Grammar" (1826); " Foreign Topo- graphy, being a Sequel to the Encyclopedia" (1828); "Choir Service Vindicated ; a Sermon" (1829); and "British Monachism." Sir Samuel Rush Meyrick, a learned antiquary and armourist, the owner and founder of Goodrich Court, arranged the armoury in the Tower and at Windsor Castle, and possessed a valuable collection of armoury at his own mansion. He was the author of several Papers on the " Academies of England, Great Britain and Ireland," and " Ancient Welsh Manuscripts"; and editor of "Dunn's Heraldic Visitation of Wales" (1846); and the "Doucean Manuscripts" 146 HEREFORDIA. (1836) ; and, it is believed, also of a later and valuable work on " Armour." The Rev. John Duncumb, Rector of Abbey Dore, and Vicar of Mansel, a learned and accomplished antiquary, was the author of "Collections towards a History of the City and County of Hereford" (1804). " The friend of rich and poor, we ncer may scan Gccrs Coitereir s fellowr Sir John Geers Cotterell, Bart, (grandfather of the present Sir Henry Geers Cotterell, Bart), many years M.P. for Herefordshire, died in 184.-, aged eighty-seven. He was greatly beloved by persons of every rank, and was regarded by all as the head of the County. " And Havard, come of low but honest birth." ^\■illiam Havard, Esq., born in Hereford, of humble parents, in 1735, rose to be partner in one of the chief London banks, and subsequently connected with the Citv-and County Bank in his native city. He devoted his leisure hours to literature, and was author of the popular song " My Poll and my Partner Joe," published in Dibdin's collection. He died in 181 1, at his house in South Lambeth. " Uniting, too, rich find of anecdote, With local customs, and events of note.'' The Rev. John INlerewether, D.D., F.R.S., Dean of the Cathedral ; the Rev. J. Webb, F.,S.A., Rector of Tretire ; and the Rev. J. Bird, Vicar of Mordiford, all eminent as scholars, enjoyed a high and deserved reputation for their great knowledge of archaeology, and through whose exertions many curious remains were discovered throughout the county. James \\'athen, Esq., a gentleman much given to literary and artistic pursuits, accompanied the late Cap. Pendergras to China ; he subsequently resided and died in Hereford. " Whilst Jto/i's Swa?t his magic sceptre Sicars." David Carrick (the son of a French refugee, who, in 1766, held a lieutenant's commission in a regiment of Dragoon.s, then cjuartered in Hereford), was born in Widemarsh-street ; from whence he was, with his mother, remf)\'ed to Lichfield, soon after his birth. NOTES TO CANTO V. 147 " Though late yet loved, whilst peals the sacred song." Dr. John Clarke Whitfeld, Professor of Music at the University of Cambridge, for several years organist of Hereford cathedral, died about the year 1845. He was the author of the oratorio of "Pa- lestine," and numerous Anthems and Services, which rank amongst the best works of our most eminent musical composers. Besides his great musical proficiency as an organist and teacher, he was an admirable performer on the violoncello, and possessed of an ex- traordinary fund of wit and anecdote. " Now whilst we care for learning, and for youth." The Cathedral Grammar School was founded by Bishop Gilbert, in 1386, for the purpose of affording gratuitous instruction to the sons of poor citizens. But the salary of the master being only £30 a year, and not being deemed adequate, fresh regulations were made in 1665, when he was also allowed to receive private pupils. The Duchess of Somerset was a great benefactress to the school, and by her munificence it enjoys, in turn with Manchester and Marlborough 'schools, the presentation to thirty scholarships, fifteen at Brazenose College, Oxford, and fifteen at St. John's College, Cambridge. There are also exhibitions for four boys born in the city of Hereford, founded by Dean Langford, who died in 1607. The school was raised to considerable eminence under the head-mastership of the late Rev. Charles Taylor, D.D., who resigned the charge soon after he became Chancellor of the Diocese. This gentleman died in the year 1834, in consequence of a fall from his carriage. He was greatly beloved and regretted by his family, friends, and pupils ; amongst the latter, the author deems himself fortunate to have been included. " Through a rich sweep of woods and meadows green, The lazy Lugg doth wind its quiet way." The river Lugg, a deep and slowly-flowing stream, rises in the county not far from Leominster, and passes through a valley rich in meadows, corn-fields and hop-gardens, at a distance of about two miles south-feast of the river Wye at Hereford. In some portion of its route, the adjacent soil is of a deep clay, and its waters partake of its red, yellowish hue. The river affords excellent sport to the angler, who delights to wander on its quiet banks. 148 HEREFORDIA, " So homage Art receives. And o'er the youthful scutjitor, Jennings, grieves." The late Benjamin Jennings, jun., a native of Hereford, and sculptor of " The Birth of the Rose,'' and other beautiful works, died in the }ear 1856, at an early age. The late David Cox, head of the Water-Colour School lived at Aylstone-hill for several years, and there painted many of his most characteristic sketches of rural scenery. Charles Iaicv, Esq., the now eminent artist, and painter of the interesting picture, " The Man of Ross portioning a Bride," is a native of the county. This charming work is in the possession of John Bleek Lye, Esq., jNI.D,, Castle-street, Hereford. Amongst other excellent productions from jNIr. Lucy's easel, may be mentioned, the "Prometheus Chained"; "Milton \isiting Galileo in the Pri- sons of the Inquisition"; " The Parting of Charles I. from his Family"; " Lord Nelson on Board the Victory on the Morning of the Battle of Trafalgar"; "The Departure of the Puritan Fathers for America" j " The Daughter of Cromwell on her Death-bed Remonstrating with her Father." The majority of these pictures have been engraved in the best style of art. " And 7cihcu the Nation's loyal Anthem peals.'' John Bull, Doctor of Music, and composer of the incomparable air of" God save the King," was a Gentleman Commoner of the College of Vicars. His musical works remained unknown for many years after his decase. " Thus shapi'd thv life, so siueet thv memory. That needed ne'er a monument shall l>e." The Hereford County Infirmary, standing on the south bank of the river Wye, at the eastern angle of the Castle Green, was opened in the 1776. It was erected by public subscription, mainly through the exertions of the Rev, Dr. Talbot, Rector of UUingswick, who headed the list with the munificent contribution of £500. Tlie site for the building was given by Edward, the fourth Earl of Oxford. NOTES TO CANTO VI. 149 CANTO VI. " Then join me on the brow 0/ Aihehtane, * * * * A7id climb again old Broomy's grassy hill." Athelstane, or Aylstone Hill, supposed to be the scene of King Athelstane's treaty with the Welsh, in the tenth century, is beautifully situate about a mile north-east of the city of Hereford, of which, and the surrounding country, it commands a most extensive and delightful prospect. Broomy Hill is situate about the same distance from the city, but in a south-westerly direction, and upon the banks of the river Wye. During the last fifteen years many additional houses, the residences of gentlemen connected with Hereford, have been erected in its immediate vicinity, the new bridge of the Newport and Abergavenny railway forming a beautiful object in the landscape. " With sound of voices, march of human feet. Outnumbering those who, once, on May-morn sweet, Led through the datice." The charming and truly rural custom of going a Maying prevailed in this district thirty years since, and young people of both sexes met and danced together on Broomy Hill, under the three large elm trees which now stand near to the basin of the waterworks. From this point of the hill are seen the Hatterel (Hatterail), or Black Mountains, in Brecon ; the Skerrid, or Holy Mountains, near Abergavenny, in Monmouthshire ; the Malvern range in Wor- cestershire ; and May Hill, in Gloucestershire. " £ut close at hand where Belmont-woods surround, A Gothic pile surmounts the rising ground!' The priory church and monastery at Belmont, erected under the auspices of Mr. Wegg Prosser, and the parochial churches of St. Martin and St. Nicholas, are new features in the scene. The cathedral, and the ancient spires of All Saints' and St. Peter's churches, all of which enjoy a commanding position, with the fine stretch of the river, visible from Broomy Hill, render it one of the most picturesque spots in the vicinity. St. Peter's church is memo- rable for the death of its founder, Walter de Lacy, in the year 1085, who accidentally fell from the battlements, which he had HEREFORDIA. ascended on the occasion of their completion. The churcli was given, in 1161, by his son, Hugh de Lacy, to tlie abbey of St. Peter, at Gloucester. " And cold is he to female bcaii/ys cliari)i. If thy fair daughters neer his heart disanjil' The allusion, it is almost unnecessary to remark, refers to the captivation of Henry H. by Fair Rosamond, daughter of Lord de Clifford ; and to that of Charles IL by Nell Gviyn. " The strength and siiieni whicJi her yeomen yield." The county of Hereford has long been proverbial for the manly character of its agricultural population, the richness of its orchards and hop-yards, and their valuable produce. Its importance has been greatly enhanced within the last thirty years, by its excellent breed of horned cattle, horses and sheep, the former of which are surpassed by none in the United Ivingdom. " He rightly sees lur sylvan glories shine" Herefordshire is generally famous for its finely-timbered woods and parks ; and especially for its beautiful oak trees. The most celebrated specimens of the latter class are at Sarnsfield, Eastnor, Moccas Park, and Eardisley. The last-mentioned is a tree of very large dimensions and great age, standing about a quarter of a mile north-east of the village of that name. " And darting from the osier i side. The fairy skiff attempts the tide." One of the many legends associated with the river, is that relating to the " Spirit of the \\")e," whicli, it is said, has for centuries fre- quented the stream, upon that beautiful portion lying between the old bridge at Hereford and the charming domain of Belmont. This legend, it is believed, had its origin in the circumstance of the death of a youth, who was the suitor of the daughter of a governor of the castle of Hereford. Ha\ing been implicated in a conspiracy against tlie garrison, but without her knowledge, he was executed by order of her parent. This sad event turned her brain ; and the spirit of this damsel is reported to ascend the river nightly in a fairy skiff, to ^■isit the scene of her former happiness, and there to lament the death of the long-cherished object of her affections. NOTES TO CANTO VI. 151 " A?id what, for faults how venal though they be. The knotted scourge is' t fitting penalty f According to a return made in the House of Commons, dated 14th July, 1859, the number of persons employed in the Royal Navy, in the year 1858, was 32,000. Of this number, 47,646 are still sub- ject to the degrading and cruel system of corporal punishment. In the last-named year, 997 were flogged. The number of lashes inflicted was 32,420, the average being 32 lashes; the instrument of torture being the cat-o'-nine-tails. The offences in all the ships were nearly the same, namely, drunkenness, insubordination, theft ; and the great difference of the punishment, between one dozen and four dozens of lashes for the same offence, seems to depend more on the temper of each individual captain or punisher, than on the gravity of the offence so visited. The cause of the difficulty (which we hear constantly complained of) in getting seamen, — of numerous desertions, of the character of the seamen being degraded — may be so traced to the barbarities thus perpetrated under the official sanction of the Admiralty, whose conduct is a standing disgrace to the crown, the government, and the parliament. It must not be omitted to state, that the warrant and commission officers are not liable to the punishment. But till a very recent period, young gentlemen were liable to it ; but it was considered so degrading, that by a special order they were exempted from the punishment. Our aristocratic chiefs, yet, have pertinaciously continued it for the actual working and able-bodied sailors, who in the hour of danger bear the great brunt of the perils to which the service is exposed. How such iniquity can be perpetrated in a Christian country, it would be difficult to imagine. But we know that the interests of the great body of the people are wholly unrepresented in both branches of the senate ; in the upper house, where sit the titled and territorial aristocracy ; and in the lower one, the junior members of their famiUes, combined with the heads of the great mercantile and manufacturing classes. These are all, more or less, bent upon their own individual aggrandisement ; and the means by which too many of them obtain places in the legislature, cannot be characterised as honourable HEREFORDIA. Jl'vi' Bridgr and Cathedral. — This view, taken from the south bank of the river looking east, represents the bridge and the cathe- dral. Few structures of the kind, from the pecuhar suddenness and extent of the floods, which are created by the mountain- streams collected at the head of the river, near Rhayader, require to be so firmly built over a comparatively small river, as the Wye Bridge at Hereford. And few bridges have so well withstood the many floods, which with overwhelming force have borne against this ancient fabric. At the close of the last, and during the present century, the floods ha\ e been so great as to entirely cover the meadows for a great distance on either side, the road through St. Martins, being wholly under \Natcr, and extending from the bridge to the causeway beyond the turnpike-gate, on the way to Ross. The present bridge, the footway of which \\'as widened about thirty years since, was built about the year 1490, replacing a bridge of wood, which was erected in the reign of Henry I. Shrine, or Pyx, of Sf. Ethdhert. — .Sir Thos. More, in his abundant wit, says, "The taking up of a man's bones, and setting them in a gay shrine, hath made many a saint." It was just so with Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, of whose death or mart)'rdom, the box, or pyx, in the engraving (more like a Florence oil-chest than anything else in common use), is considered to be a sacred memorial. The particulars of the historic incident having been detailed in the text NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 153 and notes, those here given will relate to the shrme itself. It is of exquisitely curious workmanship, but not more so than many other tributes of veneration. Like the rehcs of Bishop Trelleck, the shrine was lost to the cathedral for several centuries ; but it was discovered on the Continent some forty-five years since, by the late Canon Russell, who purchased it from its then possessors ; and by him it was generously restored to the dean and chapter. The Shrine, or Pyx, as it is called, is seven inches long, three inches and three-eighths broad, and eight inches and a quarter high ; it is form.ed of oak, very thick and strong, covered with plates of copper, tastefully enamelled in different colours, and handsomely gilt. The sloping part, or roof, measures three inches in height ; the front panel five inche.3. The figures on the principal side tell the horrible tale of the assassination of Ethelbert. The assassins are cautiously advancing on tip-toe, and pointing to their victim, whilst one is in the act of striking off his head ; and Ethelbert, surprised at his devotions, seems in the act of springing up to meet the hand, which from the cloud appears outstretched to receive him. It has been suggested, that this device might relate to some priest or bishop assassinated during the celebration of mass ; but as mass is not usually celebrated with the head covered, and as the cross on the table is a simple cross and not a crucifix (which last is generally used in public mass), it appears much more probable that the murder was committed during an act of private devotion ; and the dress and crown of the martyr rather denote a prince than either a priest or bishop. The design on the upper part or roof of the shrine, still has a relation to the martyrdom. We see there a sort of bier, on which is extended, what, we may suppose to be the body of the martyr : two men are employed in raising it from the ground : it is surrounded by figures, probably intended to represent angels, two of whom are scattering incense ; and two others, standing behind the chair, seem to point to heaven. One of them bears a tablet with an inscription. The figures at each end of the shrine may, perhaps, represent St. Ethelbert after his beatification : at least, the glory over the head would lead one to this supposition, as none of the figures on the front, — the assassins, the murdered prince, or the bearers of the bier, — have anything of the sort. The colours of the enamel are three shades of blue, a green, red, yellow, and white ; the figures are gilt ; those in front have their heads in relief 1,3-1 HEREFORDIA. The back of the shrine is covered witli a mosaic pattern of four pointed leaves, rc])taled within square compartments. The back panel opens downwards as a door, and fastens with a lock. On the inside is a plank of wood, on which is painted a red cross, the usual sign of a relic. This is much stained with a dark liquid, supposed to have been the bood of the martyr. Arms of the City of Herford. — Gules, within a border azure, charged with ten saltires sable, three lions passant gardant in pale of the second. Supporters, two lions rampant proper. Crest, a lion passant gardant proper. Motto, " Invictffi Fidelitatis Premium." jln/is of the Bishopric, prior to the time of Cantilupe. — Gules, a bezant between three .Sa\on crowns, composed alternately of points and crosses, or, surmounted by a mitre, with fillets proper.- TJie Casilc Green ajid Cathedral. — The sketch represents this beautiful public walk, formerly a ])ortion of the site of the old castle of Hereford ; with Lord Nelson's pillar, the Cathedral, and the Read- ing -Room. Arms of the JUsho/'rie, assumed by Cantilupe, and now adopted. — Gules, three leopards' heads reversed (two and one) swallowing as many fleurs-de-lis, or. Hereford Cathedral, and Lady Chapel. — This is a north-eastern view of the Cathedral, including the Lady Chapel, built by Joanna De Bohun, in the twelfth century, and liisliop Booth's Porch, erected between the }ears i.-|i6 and i,",3,";. The dimensions of the Cathe- dral are as follow : — Total exterior length, 344 ft. ; interior, 325 ft. ; length of the nave, 130 ft. ; great transejit, 147 ft. ; smaller transept, 109 ft.; Lady Chapel, 9.3ft.; breadth of nave and aisles, 74 ft. ; nave, 38 ft. ; each aisle, 28 ft. ; Lady Chapel, 28 ft. ; Tower, interior, 31ft.; exterior 43 ft ; height of nave and choir, 70ft.; lantern, 96 ft. ; tower to battlements, 41 ft. ; and to apex of the pinnacles, 166 ft. The length of the College cloisters is loijft. There are two portions also extant of the bishop's cloisters, namely, the eastern and southern, ( rjnnecting the Cathedral with the garden of the bishop's pakice. /Irms if the Deanery. — Azure, five chc\Tonels, or. Ci OSS of the Black, or Preaching, Friars. — I'his order, totally dis- tinct from that of St, Guthlac, was originally established in 1276, under tlie auspices of William, Lord Cantilupe, brother of the bishop NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 155 of that name. It was first located in Bye-street-without, but was afterwards removed to its present site, Widemarsh-gate-without, which was given to them by Sir John Daniel ; and here the buildings were commenced in the time of Edward II. More than twenty years afterwards, Edward III. enabled them to complete the un- finished portions ; and he was, with his son, the Black Prince, three archbishops, and a strong body of nobles and notables, present at the consecration. About midway between the remains of the monastery and the present hospital, stands the Black Friars' Pulpit, or Preaching Cross, a beautiful and interesting, though decayed, remnant of the later decorated period, about 1350. It is a hexagon, open on each side, and surrounded by a flight of steps, gradually decreasing as they ascend. In the centre is a pillar of the same shape, with two trefoil arches on each side. The roof was embat- tled, and included a dome, surmounted by a stone crucifix. It is probable that this Cross was surrounded by cloisters, so as to afford a shelter to the congregation. Capitular Seal of the College of Vicars. — The original, from which the engraving is taken, is about ■2\ inches long, and \\ wide, repre- senting the Virgin Mary, standing underneath a canopy, bearing in her right hand the holy child Jesus, and in her left hand an olive branch. On the upper portion is a shield, which shows, palewise, two chevrons composed of pellets. Legend — SIGILL. COLL. VICAR. ECCLES. HEREFORDIENSIS. The same design ap- pears to have been adopted as the Seal of the dean and chapter of the cathedral ; and this is carved in bold relief over the entrance to St. Ethelbert's Hospital, situate in Castle-street, which is under the governance of the dean and chapter. The River Wye from the Prospect at Ross. — The view embraces a beautiful point of the river, immediately below the circular tower erected by the late Mr. Hooper, a gentleman greatly respected by the inhabitants of Ross, and one of the chief benefactors of the town. Bishop Trelleck's Crosier and Pope Clements Bull. — These curious rehcswere discovered about fifty years since, in a rude wooden coffin, near the altar in the cathedral, about two feet eight inches below the marble flooring. The coffin contained also the vestige of a body, almost mouldering to dust, the back part of the skull being entire ; on its left side lay a lock of red hair. The crosier traversed the body from the right breast to the left foot. The leaden seal, or I3II HEREFORDIA. " Pope's Bull," with the letters, CLEMENS P.P. VI. {i.e. Pope Cle- ment VI), was attached to it by a silken cord or skein, in perfect prescrMilion. About four inches below the top of the crosier, lay a gold ring, with an amethyst stone near it. The stone has been replaced in the ring, which it perfectly fits. Some pieces of silken stutf were found amongst the dust, but so decayed that they could not be removed. The coffin, an oblong bo.x, was seven feet long, and about two feet wide, composed of oak boards, rough, and about an inch thick, but so uneven as to vary half an inch. A lid had been laid over it, but no nail-holes could be obser\ ed. The leaden Bull was about two and a quarter inches in diameter ; and the \e,stige of the crosier is about nine inches long; its breadth across the crook, six inches ; and the diameter of the staff, one inch and a half. Bishop Trelleck died in 1360, so that these relics must ha\e lain in his coffin for 450 years. iV crosier will be remembered as the pastoral staff, or emblematic crook of a bishop. Tlie origin of the term " Bull" has been disputed. Some derive it from " bulla," a seal ; and that from " bulla," a drop or bubble ; while others obtain it from a Greek word, signif} ing a council ; or from the Celtic '' burl," or " bul," a bubble. Fosbrooke tells us, that the Papal Bull is a term taken from the seals, but not confined to deeds of popes. It is extended to those of emperors, princes, bishops, etc., who, till the thirteenth century, used seals of metal, which the popes continued with lead in common acts ; gold in more important ones. These seals \aried in form till L'iban II. (about 1088), since which they have been much alike; \ iz., portraits of Paul and Peter, supiiorted b)- a cross ; on the reverse, the Po|ie's name. Alter the two letters P.P., is the number, in Roman numerals, \^hich distinguishes such Pope from his pre- decessors of the same name. Bulls of grace and favour had strings of red and \-ellow silk ; of punishment, hempen cords. The most ancient arewrUtenin Roman running-hand ; and in Lombardic, from the twelfth to the thirteenth century, though small Roman characters were occasionally used. A mixture of the two kinds, obtained so late as the fifteenth century. l)u Cange sa\ s, '■ Briefs was the term a])plied to the Pajial acts, sealed with wax ; Bulls to those with lead." These very \aluable and curious relics were stolen from the Cathedral about twenty years since, where the)- were placed in the NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 157 Lady Chapel (then used as a library), and preserved in a glass-case- The dean and chapter now only possess a model of them. The White Crozs. — In the road leading from Hereford to Hay, at the junction of another road leading to Burghill, and the battle- field of Mortimer's Cross, is an interesting architectural relic, the White Cross. It consists of an hexagonal flight of seven steps, each ten feet long at the base, and gradually decreasing with the ascent ; each step is eleven inches in breadth and twelve in height. These are surmounted by a shaft six feet in height, also hexagonal. On the sides, which are two feet broad, exclusive of a pillar at each angle, are square panels, including pointed arches, which contain, on shields, a lion rampant, which were the arms of the Charlton family, who were formerly Earls of Powis. Above, is an embattled parapet with the moulding and base of a second division of the shaft, which is said to have been destroyed or buried, during the Civil Wars, by the Roundhead soldiery. The entire height of the Cross, which was restored in 1850, at the expense of the Right Hon. and Rev. Lord Saye and Sele (one of the Canons Residentiary of the cathe- dral), is fifteen feet. During the prevalence of the Black Death or Plague of 1347, which may be said to have been invited to Hereford by the open moat, narrow streets, and other deficient sanitary regulations of that period, no market-people could be found willing to enter the city. The markets were consequently held at this spot, then a piece of waste ground ; and on this occasion, all clothing and other articles belonging to the citizens, which were deemed infectious, were dipped in large tanks of vinegar. Some years afterwards. Bishop Lewis Charlton, whose monument in the Cathedral bears the same heraldic devices, erected the Cross, no doubt in commemoration of the plague, though monkish writers ascribe his motives to a different origin. It appears that St. Canti- lupe frequently walked to and from his favourite palace of Sugwas (situate about two miles and a half distance from the Cross), whence one day returning, and coming in sight of the cathedral at this point, he is reported to have heard the bells ring for some time of their own accord, though it does not appear he ever mentioned the tune. As during the prelacy of Charlton (1361-6) the shrine of the sainted prelate was in the zenith of its power, this tale would doubtless enhance the interest of the Cross in the eyes of the pilgrims. Ancient Equestrian Statuette. — This curious relic is supposed to be i,-,.S HEREFORDIA. about 500 years old, and conjectured about that time to have be- come the property of the College of the Vicars Choral, at Hereford, in whose possession it has ever since remained. From the costume of tlie armour, it appears to be about the time of our Henry HI. It is formed of brass, and stands about twenty inches high, and is nearly twelve pounds in ^^■eight, The knight has evidently the crusader's flat helmet, with the ornamental cross forming the sight- jnece ; hauberk of scale-mail, and chausses of chain-mail. The shield on his left arm is wanting ; the sword, in the right hand, is extremely broad, and without the eross-guard. The horse is orna- mented with trappings and breast-band, which lias apparently had bells attached to it; on the forehead of the horse is a projecting tube, and the top of the hehiiet is open, and formerly had a crown. The \\hole of the horse and man is hoUtw ; and whether they ha\ e been intended for use as a lamp, or for the purpose of holding hot water (query, a tea-kettle), the learned are much in doubt. Gooiirich Castle and Goodrich Coin/. — A pretty bend of the river ^^'ye, affords a glimpse of the old Castle looking down on Goodrich Court, erected about thirty years since by the late learned antiquary and armourist, .Sir Samuel Rush Me) rick. Knight. This gentleman was commissioned by his late majesty King George 1\'. to arrange the armoury at the Tower, and at ^\'lndsor Castle. The Town Hall, Biikhcrs Hall, and St. Peter's Church. — The engra\ing reyncscnts the Old Town Hall, now standing in the High Town, Hereford, but which it is proposed shall be removed, and be replaced by a clock-lower. The Town Hall was erected by John Abel, carpenter to King James I., who also built the Town Halls of Leominster and Ross. The Butchers' Hall, a fine old house in the Elizabethan style (and the last of the houses forming the late Butchers' Roh), was erected in 162 1, and stands at a distance of about thirty jjrds eastward of the Town Hall. Saint Peter's Church, of which tlie spire is only seen in the engra\ing, is situate at the head of Saint Owen's-street, to which it is a considerable ornament. Before the removal of old St Nicholas' church, from the point of junction betw ecn King-street and Bridge-street, the situation of the churches was such as to present one at the head of each of the leading .streets of the city. Til/tern Abbey and ilie Wye. — The remains of this beautiftil eccle- LUOLOW CASTLE. " Close-built and nestling on the chm-ch-crown'd hill, Fair Ludlow stands with antique gables still, But not disturb'd by sounds like those of yore, When her stout walls Montgomery's banner bore, The founder of the forti'ess ; by whose fame 'Palace of Princes,' dates its fitting name." Canto IV. NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 159 siastical structure, stand on the edge of the river, on its southern bank, about five miles from Chepstow. Arms of the Author. — Quarterly, ist, sable ; a dolphin embowed, vorant a fish proper ; a mullet, for a difference in chief argent. 2nd, gules ; three Lucies (pike fish) hauriant and erect argent (two and one). 3rd, gules ; a chevron, or, between three arrows, barbed and shafted argent. 4th, gules; three gauntlets erect argent (two and one). Impaling. Quarterly, ist and 4th argent, a fess between three fleurs-de-lis sable ; 2nd and 3rd ; argent, on a bend gules between three pellets, as many swans proper. Crest, a dolphin embowed, vorant a fish proper. JVTotto, " Uecrevi." Ludlow Castle. — The ruins of the splendid old fortress are here given as seen from the Herefordshire side of the river Teame. Ludlow Castle, strictly speaking, is not locally situate in the county, but it is included in the diocese of Hereford ; a portion of the borough of Ludlow, however, is in Herefordshire. THE END. ^mwf'^^'f''^^ ERRATA. Paffc 22, line 6, for For fabric raised by Wilfred, read For fabric raided by Milfred. „ 27, „ 3, for A\ ilfred's work, that l^y Atlielstane begun, rmd Milfred's work, tlmt by Athelstanc begun. ,. JO, „ 17,/"/- High o'er the stream old Goodrich lifts its head, read High o'er ihc stream, see, r;noilrn.ii lifts its head, 1, 73, ,, 19, /o7- Ethelfleda; tlu- routed Danes were slain read Ethelfleda, the routed Danes were slain ; „ 7'i, „ 12, /or At Hereford, King Edward deposed read At Hereford, King Edward was deposed. ,. 84, ,. 17, for Dr. Clarke Whitfield, read Dr. Clarke Whitfeld. ,, 8S, „ 12, for Of Kelpeck Church and Castle take a view, rea.d Of Kilpeck Church and Castle take a view. ,. g.^, „ 22, for Th' impasi'ion'd tones of Whitfield's solemn strain, read Th' impassion'd tones of M liitfeld's solemn strain. ADVERTISEMENTS. In the Press, with Illustrations, Price 5s. AUTUMNAL LEAYES FROM SOMERSET POETIC, HISTOKICj AND STATISTICAL. By J. H. JAMES, MIDDLE TEMPLE. LONDON :— EDWARD LACEY, 434, WEST STRAND : JIAY, TAUNTON : AND MASON, TENBY. Now Ready, Price 5s. A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE RIGHT AND COST OF REDEEMING PROPERTY MORTGAGED TO BENEFIT BUILDING SOCIETIES, AND FREEHOLD LAND SOCIETIES. By J. H. JAMES, OF THE MIDDLE TEMPLE, BARRISTER- AT -LAW. Also J Price 25. THE JUDGMENT OF THE LORD CHANCELLOR CRANWORTH, IN THE CASE OF FLEMING v. SELF, (a moktgage redemption suit). WITH FULL REPORT AND NOTES. LONDON :— STEVENS AND SONS, BELL YARD, TEMPLE BAR. In the Press, vrith Illuitrationt, Foolscap 4to. MEMORIALS OF HEREFORD; ITS CHURCHES AND ANTIQUITIES. Br J. H. JAMES, MIDDLE TEMPLE. LONDON :— EDWARD LACEY, 434, WEST STRAND; AND SOLD BY PARKER, JONES, PHILLIPS, DAVLES, MBYRICK, & .HEAD, HEREFORD. Mow Ready, Price \s. GOVERNMENT AS IT IS: A PLEA FOR PARLIAMENTARY REFORM. By ALIQUIS. LONDON :— E. STANFORD, 6, CHARING CROSS. Now Ready, Price 5s. AN ENQUIRY INTO THE DURATION OF LIFE IN RURAL^ DISTRICTS, ILLUSTRATED BY TOPOGRAPHICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL TABLES, AND HERALDIC NOTICES. By J. H. JAMES, OF THE MIDDLE TEMPLE. LONDON :— EDWARD LACEY, 434, WEST STRAND. Aiitr Renily, J'rir o.s. INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE FORMATION OF VOLUNTEER RIFLE CORPS' EQUIPMENT CLUBS: INCLUDING RULES FOR THEIR ORGANIZATION AND CONDUCT. By J. H. JAMES, OF THE MIDDLE TEMPLE, BARRISTER-AT-LAW. LONDON :— STEVENS & SONS, BELL YARD, TEMPLE BAR AND BY OKDER OF ALL BOOKSELLERS. IVojv Ready, Price Is. 6rf. AN ENQUIRY INTO THE llcfroIagiT, Ijktoix), |jrr:ilbrg # €pit;ipljiair Insaijftions OF THE PARISHFS OF COYTY. LALESTON, St. BRIDE MIXOIJ, NEWCASTLE, OLD CASTLE, AND MERTHYR JMAWR, IN THE COUNTY OF GLAJIORGAX. TO WHICH ARE AIIDED THE VITAL STATISTICS OF THE PEERS OF PARLIAMENT OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. B Y J. II. J A M E S, MIDDLE TEMPLE. LONDON :-EDWARD LACEF, 43J, WEST STRAND; GIJIFFITHS, BEIDGENDi ilAY, TAUNTON: & MASON, TENBY. Now Ready, Price Zs. MEMORIALS OF THE OAK TREE; WITH NOTICES OF THE CLASSICAL AND OTHER ASSOCIATIONS CONNECTED WITH IT. By Miss BURT, (authoress of "the lord's phatee familiarly explained"). COPIES MAT BE HAD OF THE AUTHORESS, ON APPLICATION BY LETTER ADDRESSED MISS BURT, LOWER NORWOOD, SURREY. POPULAR NEW SONGS. Now Ready, Price 2s. 6c?. each. THE PUINCE OF WALEs' BIRTH-DAY SONG, "HARK! 'TIS THE JOY BELLS' CHEERFUL RING:" AND A CHRISTMAS CAROL, ENTITLED "JOY FILLS ALL HEAETS, FOR CHEISTMAS SMILES ONCE MORE." Also, Price 2s. each. "HASTE, HASTE TO THE HILLS OF BEAUTIFUL WALES," AND " THE ROSE THOU GAV'ST ME IN SWEET MAY." THE WORDS WRITTEN By J. H. JAMES, Esq.; THE MUSIC COMPOSED By G. a. MACFARREN, Esq. (author of the new opeba " eobin hood"}- LONDON: — CRAMER, BEALE, AND CHAPPELL, 201, REGENT-ST., AND BY ORDER OF ALL MUSIC-SELLEES AND BOOKSELLERS. DEDICATED TO THE EARL OF CARLISLE; SIR JOHN PHILLIPART, KNT. ; THE RT. UOi:. LORD CAMPBELL, LORD CHANCELLOR ; AND SIR MARYON WILSON, BART, {In Preparation. In Four Parts; and in One Volume, complete, with Illustrations). MEMORIALS or Cljisfekli, IJHinmersmltlj, j.ien5in(|toit, an^ |fainps!mb : HISTORIC, POETIC, STATISTICAL AND HERALDIC. By JAMES HENRY JAMES, MIDDLE TEMPLE. LONDON :— EDWARD LACEY, 434, WEST STRAND. G. C. FREUDEMACHER, DRAUGHTSMAN AND ENGRAVER ON WOOD, 123, CHANCERY L.iXE, LONDON. (*»* The Engraviiigs in " Herefordia " were executed by G. C- F.) WERTHEIMER & CO., CIRCUS PLACE, LONDON WALL, E.C. The Volume to which these Advertisements are appended, is submitted as a Specimen of their Book and Wood-cat Printing. BANK OF DEPOSIT, Established A.D. 1844, Ko. 3, PALL ]\IALL EAST, LONDON, S.W. Parties desirous of Invf.stixg Monet are reiiue>tr(l to examine the Plan of THE BANK OF DEPOSIT, by which :i higii rate of interest may be obtained with perfect Bccurity. Tlie interest is p.iyable in cacli year in January and July. PETER MORRISON, Managing Direcioh. Forms for (ipcniiuj Accaunts sent J'rce uii ajq^lication. BRITISH NATION LIFE ASSURANCE ASSOCIATION, 291, REGENT STEEET (W); and 38, NEW BEIDGE STREET, BLACKFRIARS, LONDON, (E.G.) Directors. George Bermingham, Esq., Chairman. Colonel Hammill. Robert Norton, Esq., M.D.,F.R.C.S. G. C. Richardson, Esq. Samuel Smith, Esq. John Thompson, Esq. George F. Anderson, E.sq "William Clarke, Esq. Henry Deefell, Esq. James Eurnell, Esq. John Geart, Esq. Auditors. John Berry, Esq. | J. S. Coleman, Esq J. Locket, Esq. Physician. John Thompson, Esq., M.D,, E.L.S. Surgeons. John S. Bristowe, Esq. I Richard Phillips. Esq, William Harding, Esq. | Reginald Read, Esq. Consulting Actuary. Thomas Walker, Esq., B.A., F.I.A., F.S.S. Solicitors. Messrs. Eyre and Lawson, 1, John Street, Bedford Row. Provincial Superintendent. Mr. Edward Everett. The British Nation Life Assurance Association transacts every kind of Life Assurance business upon Single, Joint, and Survivorship Lives, including the granting of Annuities. No extra premium is charged on any Policy held or connected with any Volunteer Rifle Corps, or other Volunteer Regiment. The Capital of the Association Is £300,000, subscribed by a large and influen- tial proprietary. The following is a summary of the business reported in a general meeting by the Directors on the 30th June, 1860: — ■ New Proposals for the year, 1,559, for £309,036; New Policies issued 1,096, for £212,440; yielding a nett annual income of £6,828 13s. Total sums assured, 7,505 Policies, for £2,180,953; yielding an annual premium income of £72,200 2s. 5d. The Invested Funds (irrespective of subscribed capital) exceed £181,000. The gross Annual Income of the Association is now £107,000. The number of deaths in the financal year, 1859-60, were 55; and the assured sums paid in claims, were £12,475 I3s. 9d. The New Business is now progressing at the rate of £15,000 per annum. This Institution and the Companies united with it have paid 2,804 claims to Policy-holders, amounting to £1,154,629 sterling. Applications for agencies in places, where the Association is not represented, may be made by letter addressed to the chief offices. HENRY LAKE, Manager and Secretary. GRESHAM LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY, 3 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON. E.G. Original Trustees. Matthew Marshall, Esq., Bank of England. Stephen Olding, Esq., Lombard Street. William Smee, Esq., Bank of England, Directors. William Tabor, Esq., Chairman. John Beadnell, Esq., Deputy-Chainnan. J. Lyne Hancock, Esq. Geokge Loave, r.R.S. Alfred Smee, F.B.S. Edward Solly, F.R.S. W. H. Thornthwaite, Esq. George Tyler, Esq. Joseph Williams, Esq. Loans may be obtained in connexion with policies effected by the Company. There has been advanced in this respect upirards of a quarter of a million since July, 1848. Policies are effected without loss of time, formalities being carried through at the OfBce 'every day, from ten to four; Saturdays, ten to two; Medical Officer, daily at Eleven, The Board assembles on Thursdays, at half-past twelve. The last declaration of bonus was in ISGO, and will apply in order of priority, to all such policies as are effected on the profit scale prior to August 1 of that year, and are continued until payment of the third annual premium, ending with August 1, 1862, Entrants after July 31, 1860, will not participate until August, 1865. A great portion of the Society's Policies are upon first-class lives, but the Company being specifically established to include the Insurance of individuals of regular and temperate habits, in whom health may be more or less impaired, the Board openly seek to transact business of this class at equitable rates, founded upon a careful consideration of these cases. Lives of this description, declined at some offices, are accordingly eligible for acceptance at the Gresham. To contrast the position of the Society at different periods of the past with the present, it will be sufficient to repeat that — At the end of the financial year (July 31, 1851), its new premiums were £5,124 3s. 4d.; its current premiums, £15,923 Is. 6d.; and its funds at interest or actually in hand, exclusive of deposits, were £21,205 9s. 6d. At the end of the financial year (July 31, 1854), the new premiums were £7,129 18s. 6d.; its current premiums, £35,379 9s. Id.; and the funds at interest or actually in hand, exclusive of deposits, were £69,689 4s. lOd. At the end of the financial year (July 31, 1860), or six years only from the last series of figures, its new premiums were £19,564 12s. 6d. The Premium Income, exclusive of interest and annuities, was £101,310 lis. lOd., and its funds at interest or actually in hand, exclusive of deposits, amounted to £230,166. Annual Reports, Prospectuses and other Forms on application. EDWIN JAMES FAUU^l^, Actuart/ and Secretary. CONSOLS' . LIFE INSURANCE ASSOCIATION, 429, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. CONSOLS-POLICIES CONTRASTED WITH ORDINARY HFB POLICIKS. The difference between Consols-Policies, issued by this Association, and those of other Companies, is thus seen : — CONSOLS-POLICIES. 1. Their Annual Current Values are defined and endorsed upon them, and they rest upon Government Securities alone. 2. They are available and negotiable First Class Securities. 3. They entitle the Insured to withdraw, on demand, about One Half of all his Premiums, on surrendering his policy, and under no circum- stances can he forfeit any portion of its Current Value. ORDINARY POLICIES. 1. Their Current Values are not defined, and they rest upon the security of Private Companies only. 2. They are not available Securities for monetary purposes. 3. They do not entitle the Insured to withdraw anything, and most Offices give as little as possible, as surrender-values, for their policies, while the non-payment of a premium by a stated day forfeits the policy, and all the premiums paid upon it. These are some of the advantages offered to Insurers by the Consols' System of Life Insurance, prepared by Dr. Farr, of the General Registry Office, Somerset House. On examination of the Prospectus, Tables of Rates, Form of Policy, and other Documents, to be had on application, it will be found that this Association affords to Insiirers the most perfect security, combined with solid personal benefits hitherto not obtainable. The Association is now transacting a large amount of business, particulars of which may be had on application to THOMAS H. BAYLIS, Managing Director. Offices— 439, Strand, London, W.G. Public and Private Agents wanted where the Association is not represented. z DEPOSIT, ASSURANCE AND DISCOUNT BANK. LIFE ASSURANCE TREASURY, (Incorporated Maroli Ith, 1856.) For receiving Sums of Money of any amount, bearing 3 per cent. Interest, as Cm-rent Premiums, witliJrawable at pleasure, and entitling to a Free Life Policy; also. Sums on Deposit, at 5 per cent., without Life Assurance; also for granting Assurances, Annuities and Loans, effecting di-connts, purchasing Eevcrsionary Property, and for the general transaction ot Monetary Affairs sanctioned by the Deed of Settlement. CAPITAL, £500,000, In 500,000 Shares of dEl each. First and only Ca.ll contemplated, 23. per Skare. Withpowerto create, successively, Three similar Issues o/" £-500,000 each, until the Subscribed Capital shall amount to TWO MILLIONS STERLING. Directors. Edmund Lloyd Bagshawe, Esq. I Cheistophek M'Adam, Esq. Albert Cooksha'we, Esq. | Tobiaii PErPEK, Esq. John .James Ridge, Esq., M.D., J.P. Bankers. The Bank of England. Medical Officers. John James Kidge, Esq., M.D. | Richard Dawes, Esq., M.R.C.S. Assurance Secretary. John Newton. Chief Offlees-5, CANNON STREET WEST, LONDON, E.C, BRANCHES: Bath, 1, John Street, Queen Square . Mnnni/cr, E. Lansdown. ■Wigan, Bi.shopgate .. ., Henry Lamb. Southampton, 2, Oxford Street .. ,, .1. C. Sharpe. Reading, 91, London Street .. .. „ T.Curtis. Prospecttises, Assurance and Annuity Proposals, and every information, will be fonvarded postage free, on .application at the London OflSces, 5, Cannon Street, West, E.G., or to any of the Local Agents. G. H. LAW, General Manager. St. GEORGE INSURANCE COMPANY. (Incorporated, 1845.) Chiep Octioe:— 118, PALL MALL, LONDON. W.C. Capital, £100 000, in Shares of £5 each. DIRECTORS. Chairman— HENRY POWNALL, Esq. Dei'uty-Ciiaikmak— HENRY HAINES, Esq. BoRLAiSE H. Adams, Esq. i John Benjamin Nevill, Esq. Thomas Bradshaw, Esq. Sir T. Herbert Maddock. Lewis Hough" Esq. A. E. Miller, Esq. R. Kino, Esq., M.D. John Edward Panter, Esq. Wm. HiiNiiY Lammin, Esq. i Henry Ward, Esq. LEADING PEATUKES OI" THE OFFICE. Every kind of Life Assurance on the most favorable terms, and no addiiional Premium charged to members of Volunteer Corps. The Assurance of Defective Titles, thereby restoring property to its full value. Endowments for Husbands, Wives, or Nominees. Endowments for Children on attaining a certain age. Annuities granted on terms peculiarly favourable. Notices of Assignments of policies registered. Medical Referees paid by the Company. Age of rhe Life Assured admitted on all Policies. Stamp Duties on Life Policies paid by the Company. Loans on Real or Personal Security, from one to five years. Further particulars, Forms of Proposal, and Prospectuses, may be had on application. j. jj GILBART, ^^ Secretary. ST. GEORGE ADVANCE FUND ASSOCIATIONS, 118, PALL MALL, LONDON. W.C. These Associations have been successfully established for making Advances on real property of any description^ and on personal security. They afford a safe and profitable investment for capital, in large or small sums, on the one hand ; and, on the other, to meet the demand for pecuniary Loans, to be repaid by small periodical instalments, extending over any period from three mouths to five years. The advantages to tradesmen and others requiring immediate advances for business or other purposes, have been clearly proved by the operations ef these Associations, by which accommodation to the extent of upwards of X60,000 has been afforded, in loans of from £30 to £1,000, in less than three years. The securities taken for advances comprise real property of every description, or two personal sureties, with a policy of Life Assurance, at the rate of £100 for every £50 advanced. Prospectuses, Reports, and every information, may be had on application. F. H. GILBART, Manager.