CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY GIFT OF S. H, BumhaDi Date Due ^ ili#iP^ h >?r. rsi " *"■ \ rrn n^ A(\cn w m \ ^ja*-MP \ PRINTED IN u. :>. A. cey NO. 23233 F 1039G7''hI3 ""'"""" ''""^ "'*linli)iiii«iii«SI&Ri;S„A3Sf.,.?'l,l the home olin 3 1924 028 897 911 Cornell University Library The original of tliis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028897911 ^t^-^Lu, (iXt/ii^e-i.^42. ^^L^JtM^*-^ THE HISTORY OF GRAND^PRE (THIRD EDITION) THE HOME OF LONGFELLOW'S "EVANGELINE' BY Thb Only Descendant of the Exiled People now Living in the Grand-Pri^ of the Acadians, JOHN FREDERIC HEREIN, Author of "The Marshlands" WOLFVILLE, N.S. WILLIAM BRIGGS TORONTO fMAH F i\G SSA-l A- Entered according to Act of the ParlUment of Canada^ in the year one thousand nine hundred and seven, by Johh Frederic Herein, at the Department of Agriculture. 9- ft- ^ ' ^ ^'|/l ii (' J Y I r ^1 -I .(f HI 1 1 Srdiratrit to Mb Mttti\n'B ^Mplf, ©Iff Arabtana. THE RETURNED ACADIAN. Along my ffttber's dykes I roam again, Among the willows by the river-side. These miles of green I know from hill to tide, And every creek and river's ruddy stain. Neglected long and shunned our dead have lain, Here where a people's dearest hope had died. Alone of all their children scattered wide, I scan the sad memorials that remain. The dykes wave with the grass, but not for me. The oxen stir not while this stranger calls. From these new homes upon the green hill-side. Where speech is strange and this new people free, No voice cries out in welcome ; for these halls Give food and shelter where I may not bide. F. Herbin. CONTENTS I. Introduction — Description - - 7 II. Acadia— Minas— The Micmac Indians. (1504-1900) 13 III. Port Royal— Minas Visited. (1604-1710) 21 IV. Minas Settled — Dyke-building — Churches at Minas —Church's Raid. (1671-1705) - 27 V. Loss of Port Royal by the French — Treaty of Utrecht — Names of Inhabitants of Minas, 1714 — Description of Grand-Pre, 1720 — ■ Governors Vetch, Nicholson, Caulfield, Doucette, Philipps, Armstrong, Philipps. (1710-1730) - - 37 VI. French Neutrals — Armstrong — Mascarene. (1730- 1747) - , . . 59^ VII. Noble at Grand-Pre — March of Coulon — Attack at Grand-Pre — Capitulation of the English — Re- taking of Grand-Pre. (1747-1748) - 64 VIII. Halifax Pounded — Cornwallis— Hopson — Lawrence (1749-1755) - 78 IX. Minas before the Deportation (1755) 96 ri CONTENTS. CHAFIEE f*** X. Winslow at Grand-Pr^ — Proclamation Issued — First Embarkation — Second Embarkation — Final Embarkation. (1755) - - - 105 XI. The Acadians in Exile— The Return. (1755-1766) 126 XII. The English Settler's at Minas - 148 XIII. The Origin of " Evangeline " - - 155 XIV. Geology of Minas — The Tides — Minerals of Minas — Geological Structure - - 163 Guide Leaf - 170 ILLUSTRATIONS. The Author - Frontispiece. Well and Willows - - - - 12 Evangeline {From the painting by Thos. Faed) - 22 Cape Blomidon ... . - - 32 Grand-Pr^ VUlage - 66 Plan of Winslow's Camp - - - - 104 Grand-Pr6 Meadows - - 138 G^spereau Landing — Scene of Embarkation - 154 Gaspereau Valley, N.S. 160 GRAND-PRE CHAPTEE I. Introduction — ^Description. Geand-Pre, Acadia, Minas, and Evangeline, are names which, in their broadest significance, repre- sent many interesting facts in the history of Nova Scotia, yet the thought suggested is the banish- ment of a race of people from the country they had inhabited for nearly one hundred and fifty years. A poet, on the one hand, has woven into undying verse the story of that closing scene. A soldier, on the other hand, has put on record in a journal the facts and details that make up the last days of the Acadian occupation of Grand-Pre. One is a poetic creation based upon these facts of history. The other is the journal of a commander who had an unpleasant duty to perform. But it is left to the imag- ination to complete the picture, without the aid of poet or historian, of the grief and misery which became the lot of this banished and wandering people. In this vol- ume are gathered together those facts and fragments of history which relate to the Acadian people of Grand- Pre. Longfellow's beautiful poem, the story of Evange- line in the constancy of her love, created out of the 7 8 GRAND-PRi. larger chapter of a people's history, has made hallowed ground of Grand-Pre. Yet, apart from the beauty of the poem, and the romantic glamour it throws over the land of Evangeline, the pages of Aca- dian story make unique and , strange facts of his- tory. Many of its chapters are both thrilling and picturesque, and not a few will be found deeply pathetic. The struggle fojc.supremasy between the greatest of the Latin and the Teutonic races, whose national rivalry and antipathy so often made Europe a battlefield, also caused England and France to con- tinue their strife and perpetuate their hatred in the forests of the New World. This forms the background of the picture. Against this we may trace the growth of. Acadia from its first settlement in 1605 through one hundred and fifty years to the deportation in 1755, when occurred the closing scene at Grand-Pre, when the Acadians were taken from their homes, their lands left desolate, and their habitations and build- ings burned to make it impossible for them to return. The mighty tides of Fundy completed the work of man's destruction by breaking down the neglec- ted dykes and letting in the waters to flow over the fields where their last labors had been to harvest their grain and to store the fruitage of their whole summer's toil. The poem " Evangeline " is a remarkably correct page of history. Since its appearance in 1847, because the odium of the act of the expulsion seemed to rest with the English Government, a great deal has been written in attempt to show that the Acadians were, in them- selves, largely to blame for the fate that befell them^ GRAND-PRi. 9 and that their removal from the country was a political necessity. Had all the facts been known, much of it would not have been written. Hali- burton, in 1839, only seventy-four years after the French were taken away, wrote a history of Nova Scotia. At that time men were alive who had lived through the scenes of the expulsion. Eichard, in 1895, published "Acadia: Missing Links of a Lost Chapter in American History," with the aid of everything that could throw light on the subject. To-day Acadian history is practically reconstructed; and only within a few years has it been possible to give all the facts in regard to that much-mooted question. The Expulsion of the Acadians. Becords were lost or destroyed; facts favorable to the people were made to appear against them ; and that .evidence was sought which would condemn the people forever. Between Haliburton and Eichard is a host of writers whose efforts have tended to perpetuate the error that has so darkened the memory of an unfortunate people. The portion of Acadia about Grand-Pre iirst occu- pied by the Acadians, known in earlier history as Mines or Minas, is noted both for the richness of its soil and the loveliness of its farms and orchards. It is also remarkable for its geological formation, having been visited by eminent geologists, while specimens of its curious mineral crystallizations enrich the collections of many colleges and museums. Longfellow's glowing description of its features of varying beauty does not usually disappoint the stranger who comes to Grand-Pre with the lines of the poem still fresh in his memory. Wolfville, only three miles away, is the centre about 10 GRAND-PRlt. which cluster the points of beauty, and from which radiate the lines of road which communicate with them. Directly in front lies the blue stretch of Minas Basin. The distant purple hills of Cumberland are cut off and relieved on the west by the bold and clearly defined shape of Cape Blomidon. Numerous large and beautiful streams empty their waters into the Basin, which in turn flows into the Bay of Fundy. Cape Blomidon terminates the range of mountains which lies on the north side of the Annapolis Valley. The eastern extremity of this valley is the Canard and Habitant of the Acadians, now named Cornwallis, and the broad fields of the Grand- Pre. These are seen to best advantage from Look-Off, a point on the North Mountain about five hundred feet above the level- of the plain. This overlooks a varied and extended scene of great beauty. Look-Off is about twelve miles from Wolfville, and the road thither lies through the finest of the orchard country, and over marshes of wonderful fertility and richness. When the traveller reaches Wolfville his feet are on Acadian ground. The town is set in the midst of scenic and historic richness of varying aspect ; and combining with meadow, marsh, forest, green slope, orchard and mountain are the phenomenal tides of the famous Fundy. It occupies the site of an Acadian village, and has become the most important town in that part of "Minas, overlooking the waters of the Basin, re-named Horton after the deportation. In its old cemetery may be read the names of some of the early settlers from New England, one stone dating 1774. Many graves antedate this. On many stones may be GRAND-PR^. 11 read the early life of tMs region in the names they bear of those first families whose fortunes were cast here and who died m the land of their adoption. The memory of the Acadians is kept only by scat- tered willows and apple trees, cellar excavations that have gaped under the sky for a century and a half, and disused dykes which the forces of nature have not as yet laid level with the earth from whence they were taken. Not a letter in the whole of Minas tells the name of an Acadian. Beyond the ridge south of Wolfville lies the famous valley of the Gaspereau. The river flowing through it empties into the Basin east of Grand-Pre. The salt tides make their way up this river for several mUes. Half a mile from the broad outlet is the historic land- ing-place where the Acadians were taken into boats and borne to the transports anchored in the channel. "West and east from the river lie the wonderful marsh- lands, those salt plaius which drew the Acadians to the shores of Minas Basin, and which they reclaimed from the sea through years of arduous toil. Follow- ing all the rivers where the marshes lay they built their homes on the adjoining uplands, and became a numer- ous people. It was at Grand-Pre they were finally com- pelled to gather for removal, that other people might be induced to make their homes on the Acadian lands and enjoy the fruits of their toil and industry. Prom the Gaspereau the transports went out with the tide, and Grand-Pre ceased to know the Acadians as a united people. A commemorative structure of a permanent character will before long be erected at Grand-Pre. In the his- 12 GRAND-PRt. tory of this part of Acadia it was the most clearly marked and important place in Mraas. Winslow and his soldiers were encamped there in 1755. It was the last to be destroyed when the Acadians were removed. Grand-Pre is the home of Longfellow's " Bvangeliae," and a stone memorial there would be fitting to perpetuate the name of the poet, as well as to mark the spot he has made famous, and to stand among the few landmarks of the departed people which have come down to us from their day. The row of willows they set out alongside the church road must in time fall into decay. The depression in the earth which was once a cellar will be filled up. The well may cease to exist. The site of the Acadian church is less plainly discernible every year. ]^ot a trace remains of the cemetery. Time is obliterating the Acadian roads. Imperishable marble should now mark the place, and tell its history to the many persons who come every year to look upon what remains of the once populous Grand-Pre of the Acadians. A fund is now being raised for the purpose of making of this ground an Acadian and Longfellow Memorial Park. o e < CHAPTER II. Acadia— Mlnas — The Mlcmac Indiana. 1504-1900. As early as the year 1504 the coast waters of Nova Scotia became known to French fishermen and traders of Bretagne and Normandy. During that century sev-> eral attempts were made to colonize the country, but not for a hundred years was a permanent settlement established in Acadia. The first mention of the word " Acadie " occurs in a document written in 1603; but it must be inferred that through a century of intercourse with the native Indians, the Micmacs, and because of the increasing importance of the fur trade and the fisheries, the peninsula of Nova Scotia must have had a name to designate it. The frequent use of the word " Cadie " or Acadie, by the Indians led to the adoption of that name for the country inhabited by them. It forms the terminal of several geographical names still in use in the province. Thus we have Shubenacadie, Tv&cadie, Chieabenacafiie, Chibbenacadte, Shwiacadie, Ponom- acadie, Henacadie, Sunacadie, 'Kaiacadie Segoonum- acadie, Moulacadie, Choalacadie, etc. The Malicites of New Brunswick pronounced the word " Quoddy," and it occurs in that form in some of the place-names of that province, VsiBaamiLquoddy, Noodiquoddy, etc. 13 14 GRAND-PRi. Kaddy or Cadie is the equivalent of region, field, ground, land, or place, the place of, and when joined to an adjective, or to a noun with the force of an adjec- tive, it denotes that the place referred to is the appro- priate or special place of the object expressed by the noun or noun-adjective. In the Micmac language, adjectives of this kind are formed by suffixing " a " or " wa " to the noun. Thus, Segubbun is a ground-nut ; Segubbuna, of or relating to ground-nuts; and Segub- buna-Kaddy is the place or region of ground-nuts, or the place in which these are to be found in abundance, Shubenaeadie. Segubbuna-Kaddy (Shubenacadie), place of ground nuts ; Soona-Kaddy (Sunacadie), place of cranberries; Kata-Kaddy, eel-ground, etc. Acadia, or Acadie, as it was known in its earlier history, formed a part of the French dominion in America called New France. Acadia embraced Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and a large part of the State of Maine. Minas, Manis, Menis, as it has been variously called, was named by the French Les Mines, and referred to the south shore of Minas Basin, from which the name was derived. Mines, later Minas, owes its name to the fact that veins of pure copper had been found at Cape D'Or, called also Cap des Mines. Hence the adoption of the names Minas Basin; Minas, the region; Minas, the French settlement south of Minas Eiver (the Com- wallis Eiver) . In general terms, Minas may be said to include all the shores or land bordering on the Gas- pereau, Cornwallis, Canard, Habitant and Pereau rivers. This includes the present territory of Avonport, Hor- tonville, Grand-Pr6, Gagpereau, Wolfville, Port Wil- GRAND-PRt. 15 liams, New Minas, Kentville, Starr's Point, Canard, CornwalUs and Pereau. The French settlement at Piziquid (Windsor) was for a time included in Minas. Various points in Acadia had been settled by the French before these beautiful lands sloping to the waters of Minas Basin became the scene of coloniza- tion. Yet report of its wonderful richness, its seclu- sion and beauty, had made Minas known a century before it received a permanent settlement. The Grand- Pre — the great prairie — and the broad sheet of basin receiving into its bosom a hundred streams, fine stretches of forest, the vast acres of marshlands, bold bluffs and undulating hills lay like a garden, the favor- ite haunt of Micmac Indians and the retreat of an occasional pirate or corsair, until the beginning of its history in 1671. The aborigines of Acadia were called by the French, Souriquois, and in the 18th and 19th centuries they were known as Micmaca. When the French first came they nimibered about 3,000. The Micmacs came origin- ally from the south-west and took possession of Acadia, driving the Kw6decks, or Iroquois, towards the St. Lawrence, and established the Eestigouche as the north- ern boundary of the Micmac territory. They permitted the Malicites, who were once a portion of the AbMiaki nation, to secure the St. John without opposition, reserving a village site at the mouth of the river. The Micmacs were of the Algonquin family of Indians. When the French came to Acadia they found that the Indians had a name for every sea, basin, lake, river, brook, headland and hill in the country. It was the home of the Micmacs and they were familiar with every 16 GRAND-PR^. part of it. Their language is beautiful and poetic. The oldest names we have are theirs. We know nothing of the origin of the word " Mic-mac." In time the French gave beautiful and suggestive names to many parts of the country. Many of these have been changed to English names. In Micmac tradition, Glooscap is the Great Spirit. He once lived in Nova Scotia, but they do not know where he now is. He was like other men in his way of living; but he never died, never was sick, and never grew old. He lived in a large wigwam. Blomidon bears his name, in Micmac, Olooscap-week (Glooscap's home). Minas Basin was his beaver pond. The dam •w&s at Cape Split, the extremity of North Mountain. This he cut open, leaving a passage way for the tides. Spencer's Island was his kettle, made of a stone. Two rocks near by were his dogs. All these places have Indian names expressive of their connection with the legend. When the white man came, Glooscap was dis- pleased with their treachery, and turning his kettle over, and changing his dogs to stone, he departed from the country. He is expected to return some day. There is evidence to show that there were Micmac villages ia Minas in early times. Game and fish were abundant, and the extensive shores uncovered by the retreating tides supplied great quantities of shell-fish. In several places on the west side of the Basin, at Starr's Point, Canard, Wolfville, Gaspereau, and Long Island, their remains have been found, showing where they had their camping-grounds, landing- places, and trails. Through the use of these places by successive generations of tribes, large tracts grand-prL 17 were cleared of wood, and were ready for the Aeadians when they sailed up the Basin on the lookout for suitable places for their homes. At Starr's Point, a few years ago, Indian skeletons were found, seeming to point to the existence of an Indian burying-ground there. Various stone implements and arrow-heads have been found in the same locality. Near that place a Kitchen-Midden, with its heap of large clam-shells, bones of various animals and pieces of copper, hand implements of stone, axes, adzes and arrow-heads of stone, chipped into shape from material obtained at Blomidon, rude pottery in fragments, showing crude attempts at ornamentation — all these have been found buried under several inches of soil. These remains show to what degree of civilization the aborigines of this country had attained when the French missionaries began their work among them. The Micmacs were an honest and intelligent race, and always maintained their friendship for the French. Much of our history was influenced by these natives. Harsh and aggressive treatment never secured their friendship. Occasional visits of the French to Minas for trade made known the richness of the country; and later, when Port Eoyal had grown too large to furnish the youth with land, these virgin fields became settled. Here the rivers were imobstructed by dyke or ford. The red tides rose and fell, flooding the marshes and mixing with the crystal waters of the many mountain streams. Only the coarse salt grass moved in the flow of the sea wihere now stretch out the broad hay meadows of the Basin of Minas. No horses or cattle grazed on 2 18 GRAND-PRi. the slopes. If o sheep fed in pasture or clearing. No smoke but of Micmac camp or bark wigwam rose in the air. No church spire pointed to heaven and told of the Son of God. Over the whole extent of the waters no ship spoke of man's industry and of a people's commerce. Here waited a rich heritage ready to reward toil and peace, a very haven of refuge. But through what a fire of persecution and woe was it to be brought about! By what tyranny and injustice! Through what pools of blood, over what devastation of homes is the foundation of a nation's greatness laid ! The Micmac language has been preserved in a dic- tionary of more than forty thousand words, and a large amount of valuable linguistic material and Mic- mac mythological lore has been gathered together by the late Silas Tertius Band, who had labored among the Micmacs for more than forty years. The Indians of to-day are fast losing their hold upon their ancient customs and manners. They number in all something over three thousand in the provinces at the present time. MICMAC NAMES OF PLACES. Aeadle F.: Aca&ia E. Annapolis River : TavoopsMk, flowing out between rocks. Antlgonlsh : Nalegelkooneech, where branches are torn off by bears getting beechnuts. Avon River : Pesegitk, Tooenueook, flowing square into the sea. Benacadle : Bunna-kaddy, place of bringing forth (moose resort In calving season). Blomldon: Globscap-week, GlooScap's home, Owkogegeschk. Boot Island : Caydy-iunny-gek, clam diggings. Canard : Apeheechkumoochwaakade, duckland. Canso : Gansoke, facing the frowning cliff. Cape Breton : Oonamaagik. Cascumpec : Cascumpec, flowing through sand. GRAND-PRi. 19 Charlottetown Harbor : Brooksake. Chedabucto : Sedabooktook, running far back. Chignecto : Sigunikt, a foot cloth. Chlverie : Wohoek, white water. Cobequld : Maycobegilk, end of the flowing water, the bore. CornwalUs River : Chijikwtook, narrow river. Cumberland : Cwes-o-mally-geek, hardwood ridge. Economy : Kenomee, sandy polno. Gaspereau Lake: Pasedoock, small islands with shrubbery. Gaspereau River : Magepskegichk, tumbling over large rocks. Gaspereau, or Alewlfe River : Segoonumakaddy. Halifax : Chebookt, chief harbor. Hantsport : Kagagwek, place of dead flsh. Herring Point : Wospooijiktook, to be among the seals. Herring Cove : Moolipchugich, a gorge. Isle of Haut : Maskoositkik, an Indian potato. Katakaddy, eel-ground. La Have River : Pijenooiskak, having long points. Long Island : Mesadik, extending far out. Memramcook : Amlamkook, variegated. Micmac : Migamack. Minudie : Menoody, a bay. Mud Bridge (Wolfville) : Mtaban. Newfoundland : Vptumcook, the mainland. Nictau : Nictahk, forks. Noodiguoddy, place of seals, or place of seal-hunting. Noosaboon : Noosdbon, the river. Nova Scotia : Megumaage, Micmac land. Oak Point : Upkwaweegan, a house covered with spruce bark. Parrsboro' : Owwokun, a crossing-over place. Partridge Island : Putowecha, Munegoo. Passamaquoddy : Pestumooguoddy, Pollock-ground. Peticodiac : Pelkoothweak, bends in a bow. Penobscot : Banoopskep, opening out through the rocks. Pictou : Piktook. Place of Eagles : Kitpooakaddy. Pockwock Lake : Paakwaak, stop here, you cannot go farther. Ponhook Lake : Bahnook, first lake In the chain. Prince Edward Island : Eppayguit, anchored on the wave. Quebec : Kehec, the narrows. Quaco : Outwahgahgek, the home of the sea cow. River John : Cajbooginek, winding through the wilder- ness. 20 GRAND-PRi. Shubenacadle : Seguhunakadie, place where the Segubun or Mlcmac potato grows. St. John : Menagwes, where they collect dead seals. St. John River : OlastooTc, beautiful river. St. Mary's Bay : 'Wagweiik, the end. Starr's Point : Nesoogwitk, lying on the water between two points. Sunacadie : SoonaJcaddy, place of cranberries. Tangier River : AJimagopskegeek, tumbling over rocks. Tracadie : Tulukaddy, probably place of residence. White Waters : Wajeechk, a signal. Windsor : Setun. Yarmouth : Keepoogwitk, land's end. CHAPTEE III. Port Royal — ^Minas Visited. 1604-1710. In 1604 Pierre de Guast, Sieur de Monts, a native of Saintonge, a nobleman of the court of Henry IV. of France, came to Acadia to found a colony. He was given the monopoly of the fur trade to reward him for this work. With De Monts were Champlain, Poutrin- eourt and Pontgrave, names well known in connection with the history of New France. In 1604 De Monts sailed up the Bay of Fundy on an exploring expedition. He visited the mines of pure copper at Cape D'Or (Golden Cape), also called Cap des Mines. These mines were undoubtedly known to the Indians, for among their remains found on the shores of the Basin, pieces of copper are sometimes met with. De Monts sailed into the Basin to Partridge Island, where the captain of one of the ships found a large specimen of amethyst. The stone was broken in two pieces, and De Monts received one of them. On their return to France the specimens were cut and mounted in beautiful settings, and presented to the king and queen. This stone is rarely met with now on the island touched by these hardy explorers, and only in small and poorly colored specimens. The writer has obtained 21 22 GRAND-PRE. fine pieces at Blomidon, which when cut and polished compare well with the hest stone obtainable. On the lookout for a suitable place for settlement, De Monts was not favorably impressed with the stern appearance of the rocky cliffs of Blomidon and the north shores. He missed the rich lands but a few miles farther south. He then continued his passage along the north shore of the Bay of Fundy, at that time called Bale Franeaise.* With the establishment of Port Eoyal began the friendly relations that continued so long between the native Indians and the French. A profitable trade in beaver and other furs sprung up. In the year 1606, Poutrincourt and Champlain, while coasting in a small boat on the north side of the Basin of Minas, found a cross, very old, and entirely covered with moss, and thoroughly rotten. This dis- covery was evidence to prove that the basin had been visited by Christian people, and also leads to the con- clusion that traders must have visited Minas before the settlement of the country. The history of La Cadie, or L' Acadia, began with, the founding of Port Eoyal, now Annapolis, in 1605, a grant of that portion of it having been made to Pout- rincourt by De Monts. With the French noblesse were Catholic and Protestant clergymen, laborers and arti- sans. The company spent the winter on an island in the mouth of the Eiver St. Croix, which De Monts chose for his headquarters. After a dreary winter, in which nearly half the party died of scurvy, the survivors returned to Port Eoyal, and the settlement was estab- • The word Fundy is derived frgm " fond," the end, op top, of the bay. FAEDS EVANGELINE. GRAND-PRi. 23 lished there. In 1607, the monopoly of the fur trade was taken from De Monts, and the colonists abandoned Acadia. In 1610, another party came out under the leadership of Poutrincourt. Jamestown, in Virginia, settled in 1607, was growing rapidly. Samuel Argall, from that place, destroyed Port Eoyal in 1612, but a few of the French colonists remained in the country among the Indians. From this period for ten years there is little mention of Acadia. The fur trade was still carried on, and the fishing industry increased. The French continued in the country, and forts were built on St. John Eiver and at Cape Sable. In 1631, James I. gave Acadia to Sir William Alexander, Earl of Stirling, and the country received the name it was ultimately to retain, Kova Scotia.* To aid the enterprise of an annual fishing expedition the Order of Nova Scotia Baronets was established. Melanson is the only name traceable to this Scotch period of rule, forming to-day a numerous family. The peace of St. Germain-en-Laye, in 1633, gave Nova Scotia to France, when effort was made vsdth * Oeigin of the Fibst Coat of Abms of Nova Scotia. — The Order of Baronets of Nova Scotia was established on the principle that they should assist the plantation of the province at their own charges. Charles I., in 1625, con- ferred on each knight a space of land three miles wide and six miles long in New Scotland. The complete number of knights was to be 150. The insignia of the Order to be the arms of Nova Scotia, Argent, " the ancient arms of our said ancient kingdom of Scotland," on a blue cross, com- monly called a saltier azure, to be supported by the uni- corn on the right side, and a savage on the left ; and for the crest, a laurel branch and a thistle proceeding out of an armed hand, and a naked (sword ?) conjoined, witl^ the motto : Munit Tiaec ct altera vincit. 24 GRAND-PRi. success to establish colonies in the country. A com- pany was formed having for its commander Isaac de Eazilly, his kinsman, d'Aulaey de Chamisay, and Nicholas Denys de la Eonde. At this time 300 per- sons were brought to Acadia. Chamisay, between 1639 and 1649, brought out others; and under Charles Etienne de La Tour, in 1651, others were settled. From these the Acadians of the Maritime Provinces of Canada are descended, numbering over 150,000. La Tour is probably the only name dating from the arrival in 1605 of De Monts and Poutrincourt. Of the 300 who came in 1632, there were perhaps twenty families. Others married yoilng women who were brought from France later. With de KaziUy came three Capuchin friars, who took charge of the Acadian missions. Eecords of mar- riages, births and deaths were always kept by these spiritual directors, but many have been lost, so that it is not known from what parishes in France the first Acadian families came. The Canadian Archives Department is gathering all historical material in France and England relating to the country and the people, and new facts are frequently coming to light. In 1636, dykes began to be used to keep the salt tides of the ocean from flooding the marshes. Agriculture rose in importance as the Acadians brought more and more of this rich land into cultivation, and became skilful in the care of the dyke-protected meadows. In all parts of New France, seigneuries, large tracts of land, had been granted to members and friends of the governing bodj of the country, the Himdred Associates. GRAND-PRA. 25 Their engagement was simply to settle the country, to protect the settlers, and to support the missions. The rivalry of two seigneurs in Acadia, La Tour and d'Aulney-Chamisay, the one living at the mouth of the St. John Eiver, the other at his fortified trading-post on the Penobscot, resulted in open war, which con- tinued to 1645, when, during the absence of La Tour, d'Aulney captured Fort La Tour. The defence was bravely conducted by Lady La Tour, but without avail, against a superior force ; and the lady was compelled to witness the execution of her courageous followers. It is said she died of grief because of this cruel act. D'Aulney died in 1650, and La Tour became governor, and lieutenant for the king in Acadia, and besides, he married the widow of his late rival. In 1654, a force from Boston, under Major Sedge- wick, took Port Eoyal and Fort La Tour, while the question of the boundary between Acadia and New England was in dispute. La Tour at once transferred his allegiance to England. Acadia was restored to France in 1667, but it was 1670 before the representa- tive of Prance took possession. This coimtry now became a part of New Prance, a province of the mother coimtry, and was governed directly from Paris. After all the sacrifice of time and money, the population of Acadia was at this date about 400. Port Eoyal had the most of these. It was from this place, in the year 1671, that the few first Acadians removed to Minas, and gave date to the beginning of history at Grand-Pr6. It was but a few decades when this section of the country became the most flourishing in Acadia. 26 GRAND-PRi. After the coming of Grandfontaine, the population of the country doubled in sixteen years, and during that time there was a great advance in agriculture. Considerable trade was carried on illegally about the coast by New Englanders. In 1689, France and England began a war which was carried on with little intermission till 1713. Acadia was again captured, the fort at Annapolis being unable to withstand attack. In America both sides made use of the Indians, as far as they were able, and their savage nature was aroused to its highest pitch of aggression and cruelty. Acadia was retaken in 1690. In 1710, a garrison of less than three hundred men at Port Eoyal capitulated to a New England force, and Acadia passed out of the hands of the French for the last time. The place was named Annapolis, in honor of the British queen. CHAPTER IV. Minas Settled — Dyke-building — Churches at Mlnas — Church's Raid. 1673-1705. The chief founder of Minas was a rich inhabitant of Port Eoyal, Pierre Terriau, who probably settled on Habitant Eiver about 1672. Associated with him were Claude and Antoine Landry, and Bene Le Blanc. Terriau had wealth and much wheat, which he had raised at Port Eoyal, and he distributed it among the others without interest. Here was the hoped-for retreat. Those at Port Eoyal were under the eye of the Fort, the prey of every evil chance. Minas was without protection, save that of isolation, yet it grew rapidly after the pretensions of La Villiere, in command of Acadia, who claimed Minas, were laid aside three years later. His policy had tended to obstruct settlement. Minas under the Seigneur La Borgne received no assistance from him. Annapolis had at this time a population of 361., The Acadians were mostly descendants of colonists brought out to Nova Scotia between 1633 and 1651. They came from Eochelle, Saintonge, and Poiteau, a limited area on the west of France — a country of marshes. The census of 1671 gives us the following names: Bourgeois, Gaudet, Kessy, de Foret, H6bert, Babin, Daigle, Blanchard, Aucoin, Dupeux, Terriau, Sarvoie, Cor- 27 28 GRAND-PRt. poron, Martin, Pellerfn, Morin, Brun, Gauterot, Trahan, Cyr, Thlbaudeau, Petitpas, Bourg, Boudreau, Gullbaut, Granger, Landry, Doucet, Girouard, Vincent, Brean, Le Blanc, Poirler, Comeau, Pitre, Belliveau, Cormier, Rim- baut, Dugas, Richard, Melanson, Robichan, Lanone, d'Entremont, de la Tour, Bertrand, de Bellisle, Boudrot, Girouard, Martin, Commeaux. In 1671, the agricultural population confined itself more and more to the land. Every immigrant, every disbanded soldier, became a farmer. Thus land became necessary, and as the boys grew up many had to look elsewhere for homes. Sometimes whole families migrated. From this time settlements increased rapidly in different parts of Acadia, on the best available land. From 1671 to 1686, the population of Acadia had more than doubled. Minas had now 57 souls, 10 fami- lies, 83 acres tilled, 90 horned cattle, 21 sheep, 67 swine, 30 guns. Among the settlers was Pierre Melanson, called La Verdure, aged 54, bom in 1632, and Marie Muis D'Antremon, his second wife, aged 36, bom in 1650. Their nine children were from one to twenty years old. Pierre Melanson came from Port Eoyal. His name was afiBxed to the marriage settlement of La Tour and Madame D'Aulney in 1653. In 1654 Melanson was Captain Commandant of the king at Port Eoyal, and tutor, as well, to the children of the then dead D'Aulney, proprietor of the country. As will be seen later, the surnames of the nine families at Minas increased rapidly. They were Aucoin, De la Boue, La Eoche, Pinet, Terriau, Eivet, Boudrot, Hebert, Landry. Aucoin, Terriau, Boudrot, Hebert and Landry became the most numerous of the names we find on the list of the Acadians at Minas in 1755. GRAND-PRi. 29 These settled near the head of the tide on the Canard and Habitant Eivers. Le Blanc was not on the census of 1686, but the name became numerous later on the south side of Minas Eiver (the Cornwallis). The Melansons also were located there, and a village on the Gaspereau had this name. In 1686 we find thirty-six new names on the census of that year: Le Prince, Brassard, Douaron, Levron, Lort, Arsenaut, Bergeron, Bellefontaine, Tourangeau, Barlllot, Godin dit Chatillon, Benoit, Prgjeau, Baslarache, Fardel, Henry, Gareau, Laperridrre, Michel, Gourdeau, La Bauve, La Pierre dit Laroche, Pinet, Rivet, Miranda, La Barre, Aubin, Mignault, Cochu, Collard, Mercler, LavalUe, Lagosse, Blou, Desorcis, Martel, Dubreuil. From 1686 to 1710, seventy-seven new names were added to the Acadians : La Basque, Moyse, Olllvier, Parisien, Dubois, Bernard, Thibeau, Rosette, La Breton, Lounais, Lafont, Allard, La Marquis, Emmanuel, Dupuis, Denis, Barnabe, Beaumont, La Malstre, AUain, Cadet, Lessolle, Raymond, Donat, Malllard, Vilatte, Surette, Savary, Dumont, Lavergne, Lalande, Simon Bablneau, Paris, Crosse, Saint-Scene, I'Esperance, Manceau, Pothier, Dambone, Lalibertfi, Laurier, Yvon, Samson, Blondin, Bldeau, Gentll, Gousille, Langlois, Vigneau, dit Maurice, Champagne, ClSmenceau, La Montague, Mouton, Jasmin, Voyer, Toussaint, Boutin, Roy Chauvert, Boucher, Darols, de Saulnlers, Boisseau, Herpin, GuSrin, Lonqu6p6e, Hach6, Lambert, Chlasson, Maisonnat, Carre De Vaux, Ondy, Nuirat Veco, Leger. Acadia's history gives an account of disputes and attacks everywhere else, but for some years Minas is seldom mentioned. It grew quietly in retreat. Though 30 GRAND-PRi. history is silent regarding it, we may infer the ambi- tions that actuated the habitants. The great results disclosed later, when base motive was not lacking to treat them as enemies, can be ascribed to those quiet days of thrift and industry that made the small nation of Acadian peasantry a prosperous and contented peo- ple. From 1670 to 1710 Port Royal was besieged five times. Minas was visited and made to suffer but once. Reports of the rich extent of the marshes attracted many to its borders. Thousands of acres awaited the building of dykes to make their owners rich. At various times pirates and privateers had appeared near the coast of Acadia, and Villebon, in 1699, gover- nor at Port Royal, urged the necessity of maintaining a fortress at that place, with a garrison of 300 to 400 men, as a protection against the English and pirates. This would be a means of protecting Minas as well, where corn and cattle were raised. At that time Ville- bon sent four men to a cliff of copper in Minas, where they worked for ten or twelve days, but produced little. A few specimens were sent to Prance. The cost of the work was 47 livres. It was Villebon who sent a detachment of his gar- rison to Minas when he heard that the people of that place had said that they would Join the English when they should appear among them. This had effect upon the Acadians, for they sent a working party to assist in building the fort. La Verdure was chief man at Minas to transmit all orders from the governors, and to have them executed. He was continued in the office. It must be understood that the first attempts made by the Acadians at dyke-building were eommensur- GRAND-PRlt. 31 ate with their small niimbera. Dykes were thrown up to enclose small areas of marsh, alongside the upland, often from point to point of land. As the population grew larger these small dykes increased, until the people were of sufficient number to run a dyke across the river from shore to shore. This required united effort and great skill, especially in putting down a sluice in the bed of the river channel, to let out the fresh water from within, and to keep out the salt water of the rapid tides. That part of the dyke with a sluice is called an. arboiteau; aboiteau, abateau. In fact, there are more than twenty words, with slight difference in spelling, to represent it. A not infrequent pronunciation of the word is "bato." A great deal has been written, and many opinions given, more or less different, to explain the origin of the word. The word is doubtless of French origin : Une boite d'eau, a water box, abateau. Aboyer, to keep at bay, aboideau. Abot, a branch of a tree fastened to a horse's foot. Aboter, a hoppled animal, hence aboiteau, a water-clog. Abat, a barrier, or defence, abateau. Abattre, to beat off, or back, abateau. Aboideau, "I'abbe d'eau," seems to be the correct word, and the best form of it; abee, a French word, meaning a dam, d'eau, water. The first account we have of a dyke and sluice is in " Voyage du Sieur de Dierville en Acadie, ou Nouvelle France," in the year 1699, published in 1708. The reference is as follows : "It is necessary, in order to raise grains, to drain, 32 GRAND-PRt. the marshes, which the sea at high tide overflows with its waters; and which they (the Acadians) call the low- lands. Those lands are good enough; but what labor does it require to put them in condition for cultivation ? It is not easy to stay the course of the sea; the Acadians, nevertheless, accomplish the task by means of strong dykes, which they call ahoteauxj and this is how they make them: They set up five or six rows of large trees, quite entire, at the places by which the sea enters the marshes, and between the rows they lay other trees lengthwise, one upon another, and they fill all the empty spaces so well with soft clay, well packed, that the water can no longer pass through. They fit in the middle of these works a flood-gate (un esseau) in such a manner that it allows, at low tide, the marsh-water to flow out by its own pressure, and prevents the water of the sea from entering." The Acadians performed a great work in building the dykes. On the Canard River and at Grand-Pre are many traces of their labor. Dykes stretched across the Grand-Pre meadows to Long Island. The greater num- ber of these protecting walls of earth required also the construction of aboUeaux in the bottom of river chan- nels. On the Gaspereau about all the marsh was dyked in. Wolfville, Port Williams, New Minas and Kent- ville had dykes in early times. A very interesting work may be seen on the road to Look-Off. The bridge cross- ing the former channel of Canard Eiver rests on the broken ends of the old French dyke, over where the aboiteau lay. After the expulsion, the dyke was broken by a high tide, and the English built another only a z; o Q S o hJ m H < o GRAND-PrA. 33 few yards west, till the great work of constiiucting the Wellington dyke was done, nearer to the Basin. The District of Minas included the parish of St. Joseph at Canard River, and that of St. Charles at Grand-Pre. The churches were of wood, with towers from which, twice a day, came the sound of L'Angelus. We have an interesting account of a visit to Grand-Pre, or Minas, as it was called, in 1686,, by Bishop Valliers, of Quebec. We learn from him that the inhabitants were young men, well built, and hard working. They had left Port Royal to settle there. They were drain- ing the marshes and building dykes. They were with- out spiritual guidance, and the Bishop stopped a day to minister to them, giving them instruction, hearing confession and giving communion in the morning; and in the afternoon he baptized some children, and settled some differences between them. They had been without religious instruction for some time, and they pleaded for a priest to be given them, promising not only to support him, but to build a church and a parochial house. Where now stand the French willows and the old well so much visited every year, was then known as an island, being surrounded by water at high tides. This strip of land was offered by the owner as a site for the church and house, either the whole or a part of it. Here, eventually, the church and priest's house were built. The burying ground was also near by. The location of these may be seen to-day. This spot was in 1755 used by Colonel Winslow for himself and his regiment when the Acadians were being deported. The first missionary at Grand Pre was le pere Claude 3 34 GRAND-PR^. Mireau, Kecollet, who wrote the first acts in the regis- ters, June 25th, 1694. ' As only part of the parish register remains, there is no complete list of the priests of Minas. The list of missionaries, or cures, of whom we know, is : M. de St. Cosme, 1697. Bonaventure Masson, Eecollet, 1707-1710. Abbe Gaulin, 1711-1717. Felix Pain and Justinian Durand, 1717-1738. L'Abbe de la Goudalie, 1739-1748. L'Abbe Chavreulx, Grand-Pre, and Abbe Daudin, Canard Eiver, removed in 1755. Pr'om 1690 to 1710 hostilities scarcely ceased between the Few Englanders and the French. Pillage, sur- prises, and ambushes were the order of the day. All the cruel nature of the Indians was excited to barbarous deeds. The hatred of the two peoples grew to its high- est, and no act seemed too bloody or cruel. The Acadians, meanwhile, were being bound by closer ties, as the newer arrivals at Minas married the daughters of the older settlers. Eelationship, religion, and a common nationality bound the whole people in one great family. In 1693, Minas promised to become the most popu- lous and flourishing settlement in Acadia. Its people numbered 297, with 360 acres of land under cultiva- tion, 461 horned cattle, 390 sheep, 314 swine. Port Eoyal had lost in population and wealth. In 1701, there were 490 souls; in 1714, 878, in Minas. In 1701, the Governor of Acadia passed through the country. He visited Minas and found the people yery comfortable and independent, possessed of a great num- GRAND-PRA. 35 ber of cattle, and able to export 700 or 800 hogsheads of wheat yearly, beyond their own consumption. They lived like republicans, acknowledging no royal or judi- cial authority. The Governor afterward had to send Bonaventure, naval commander of the coast, to bring them to terms. They engaged to make a road through the woods to Port Eoyal, a distance of ten leagues, as soon as the harvest was over. Only a trail existed at this time between the two centres. Many Indian trails ran over the peninsula, but the waterways served as the principal means of passing from one part of Acadia to another. Minas Basin received- the waters of many long rivers, navigable for small craft. We learn that for the purpose of defence, both from the English and from pirates and privateers, there was a company of militia at Minas. La Verdure, whom we have mentioned, was captain. He was the chief man at Minas; honest, poor, a debtor to the extent of 1,400 livres. All governmental addresses were sent to him for execution. The cure had a salary of about $150. In 1704, about the end of May, an expedition left Boston to ravage the coast against the French and Indians. About 550 men, including some Indians, embarked in two gimboats, 14 transports, 36 whale- boats and a shallop. The expedition was under the command of Colonel Benjamin Church, a celebrated partizan, who had in 1696 burned and pillaged settle- ments of the French and killed their cattle. He passed up the coast, killing and making prisoners as he went. At Fundy, Church, with the smaller vessels, went to Minas, to attend to the lighter and more congenial work of robbery, leaving the remainder to attack the 36 GRAND-PRi:. fort at Port Eoyal, -which, by the way, was not attempted. At Minas, Church caused the dykes to be cut, thus flooding the marshlands and destroying the crops. Euin and desolation followed his route. Hav- ing met with some resistance, he destroyed three popu- lous villages, plundered the inhabitants and killed their cattle. His instructions from Governor Dudley were to burn houses and make what spoils he could. A French writer affirms that but few houses at the heads of the rivers were spared. A better agent ■could not have been chosen. He had been sent in a spirit of retaliation, because the Indians had been attacking the English settlements, instigated, it is said, by the French of Canada. One writer desci-ibes Church as being energetic, impetuous, and bull-headed. He was so fat that when pushing through the woods he kept a stout sergeant by him to hoist him over the fallen trees. He was now sixty-five years old, and must have outgrown the valor that had made him a noted Indian fighter ; for on his visit to Minas he had treated the innocent people there in a despicable manner. Pub- lic opinion in Massachusetts branded him as a coward, though he received the thanks of the Government. In 1705, Bonaventure, the Governor, sent four sol- diers to Minas to bring back the king's bark, La Gaillarde, loaded with wheat. He presented to the church there, as a royal gift, an ostensorium, a pyx, a chalice, and complete ornaments for the Eucharist. This was probably to replace what had been taken off by Church in the previous year. It is apparent that only one church had been pillaged. CHAPTEE V. Loss of Port Royal by the French — Treaty of Utrecht — Names of Inhabitants of Minas, 1714— Description of Grand Prg, 1720 — Governors Vetch, Nicholson, Caulfield, Doucette, Philipps, Armstrong, Philipps (1710-1730). 1710-1730. On October 10th, 1710, Port Royal STirrendered to the English force under Nicholson, after a gallant fight of nineteen days.' It has never been out of the pos- session of Great Britain since that time. The terms of capitulation referred to Port Eoyal and the territory within three miles of the fort. The people within that radius were allowed two years to pass out of the banlieue into what was yet claimed as French territory, bind- ing themselves to allegiance for that time if they remained. The French of Canada never lost hope of regaining Acadia, and the Acadians were more or less in sym- pathy with this ambition, until they learned from bit- ter experience that their own countrymen failed in every way to better their condition. Yet the struggle was continued till 1760, when France lost all the pos- sessions she ever owned in ISTew France. During that time of futile effort to win back what she had lost, the representatives of French rule attempted to maintain their subjects in due obedience. 37 38 GRAND-PRt. In 1710, Col. Vetch* was in command at Port Eoyal as English Governor, supported by 450 soldiers. Minas in a friendly spirit "sent deputies to Annapolis to learn what they might expect under the new government. No answer was then given, but Masearene, an officer of French extraction, who could speak the language of the Acadians, was sent to Grand-Pre to deal directly with the people. This officer was senior in command, and was afterwards acting governor of the province. On November 13th, 1710, Masearene arrived before Grand-Pre in the brigantine Betiy. On board this vessel were fifty-nine soldiers, a lieutenant and a sur- geon. A French vessel was also brought along, captured on the passage up the Bay of Fundy. She had furs on board as a present to the governor. An Acadian passenger from Minas was at once sent from the ship with ah order from Masearene, which ran : " . . Make known by these to all the Inhabitants of Minas .... and other places .... that they may as soon as possible assemble at the place which they shall judge most convenient for me to land at, that I shall impart the instructions I have concerning them from His Excellency our Governor. I let them know that they need not take umbrage at my landing with some forces, since they are only designed for my guard and security, and not to commit any act of hostility against the inhabitants as long as they shall do their duty." On the 13th, about noon, Masearene landed at Grand- Pre in a flat-bottomed boat with forty-two men and * In New England, in 1706, Vetch with others was fined £200 for carrying on unlawful trade with the French. This Act was set aside by the Queen in Council. There was no queen to grant pardon to the Acadians when they traded with thpse of their own languag;e. GRAND-PRE. 39 officers. The order addressed to the people had re- assured them as to the peaceful intentions of the sol- diers. The tact of the commanding officer caused about 150 of the inhabitants to assemble on the shore to meet him, and he was received with demonstrations of joy. Vetch's instructions were that they were to be declared prisoners of war, and their persons and pro- perty were at the disposal of the government. Mas- carene simply told them that his guard would not commit any act of hostility if the Acadians did their duty. After landing, the whole party marched to the house selected and given up by the people for the officers' quarters, and the men were lodged in four houses around that occupied by them. A guard was formed with a sergeant and twelve men, and the whole party remained on shore instead of going back every night to the vessel, which had to lie about nine miles off in deep water. The creek they had entered by had the tide only an hour and a half. Mascarene refreshed himself, then communicated his instructions to those present. As his order had not reached those persons living at a distance, those present asked that certain ones among them should be chosen to represent the whole people. Mascarene consented to this, and the Acadians selected Peter Melanson and four men formerly captains of their militia, and another man, six in all. To these the instructions were given, as he had received them from Vetch. They were told that their property and persons were at the dis- posal of the government, and that while those under the capitulation had lost almost all they possessed, the 40 GRAND~PR±. people of Minas had been out of pity protected from the army. This seemed a fitting introduction for the demand that was now to be made. They were requested to pay six thousand livres,* either in money or in peltry, with a further contribution of twenty pistolesf every month from the date of the surrender of Port Eoyal towards maintaining the governor's table. The payment of this amount gave them the free right to trade with Annapolis, but with no other place, and to pass between the districts. They were to trade with only those who came to them with an order. These instructions gave the deputies much concern, and they told Mascarene of the miserable condition of many of the people of Minas because of the action of the previous French Governor. They stated it would be impossible to collect more than half the amount demanded of them, as a third of their people were very poor. They asked that a little time might be given them to obtain half of what was demanded of the people, and to petition the governor to remit the other half; and to prevent the tax from falling upon a few of the richer and more public-spirited persons, they pleaded for power to compel those to pay their share who might otherwise refuse the demand. A list of the inhabitants was drawn up, and the amount each person was taxed for. Jean Landry, one of the deputies, and the captain of the vessel, took charge of the furs, amounting to sixty pistoles, to carry them to Annapolis. The whole * $1,200. tl80. GRAND-PRE. 41 proceedings were quietly carried out, no complaint hav- ing been made of the treatment of the soldiers. On the 4th, Mascarene marched three mUes to the boats waiting for the party. The Acadians were paid sixteen livres for the lodging of his soldiers, himself and the two officers. Form of the authority vested in the deputies: " I establish Messrs. Peter Melanson, Alexander Bourg, Anthony Le Blanc, John and Peter Landry, Cra. to be receivers of the contributions agreed, on the part of the eight representatives for the share of the inhabitants of Manis, designed for a present to our Governor, to wit, the sum of as also for that part of their share towards the twenty pistoles, vizt., the sum and grant to them the power of making the inhabitants of Manis contribute proportionably according to eachs capa- city under penalty of the sd. if they refuse of Military execution. The said are to gather the sums in peltry, money or other effects, and to transmit them to Annapolis Royal. " Done at Manis the 16th of Nov., 1710, O.S. " Translation. " P. Mascarene." Vetch was determined to secure as much tax from the Minas Acadians as lay in his power; but in six months sickness and death had reduced his garrison to one hundred men, and left him powerless to impose his severe demands upon the people. Those at Anna- polis stated that he treated them like negroes, and that they were under great obligations to him for not receiv- ing worse treatment. During the next year the fort was in a weak con- dition and in danger of attack. Minas remained in *2 GRAND-PRt. French territory until the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. But meanwhile the fort was blockaded by the French. Abbe Gaulin, parish priest at Minas, tried to organize an expedition to aid the French, and succeeded in get- ting together two hundred men, and entrusted them to Saint Castin, who had been named Lieutenant of the king in Acadia. The enterprise was not carried out. Port Eoyal was now Annapolis ; and Acadia, Nova Scotia. The province had a population of about six thousand souls. The Treaty of TJthecht gave Acadia, excepting Louisburg, to England. The Acadians had liberty to remove themselves and all their movable effects to any place within a year. Those who were willing to remain might do so as subjects of Great Britain, and should enjoy the free exercise of their religion as far as the laws of that country allowed. They had also the privi- lege of selling their lands and estates in the country if tbey wished to remove. The Acadians determined to leave the country rather than take the oath of allegiance, which might at any time compel them to take up arms against their own countrymen. In 1713 they had sent a deputation to Louisburg, but found the soil of Cape Breton of inferior quality, wooded, and without natural meadows. Yet they had determined on leaving. Lands in Prince Edward Island had been offered them. Colonel Vetch, who was in c(tmmand at Annapolis, would not permit them to go, on the pretext that he was only Lieutenant- Governor, and they must wait for the arrival of Gover- nor Nicholson. His coming dates after the year stipu- lated by the treaty had expired. GRAND-PRE. 43 The following letter from Felix Pain, missionary, EecoUet, to the Governor of Cape Breton, is to the point : "MiNAS, 23rd Septemtier, 1713. " A summary of what the Inhabitants have answered me : "'It would be to expose us manifestly to die of hunger, burthened as we are with large families, to quit the dwelling places and clearances from which we derive our usual subsistence, without any other resource, to take rough new lands, from which the standing wood must be removed, without any advance or resistance. One-fourth of our population consists of aged persons, unfit for the labor of breaking up new lands, and who, with great exer- tion, are able to cultivate the cleared land, which supplies subsistence for them and their families. Finally, we shall answer for ourselves and the absent, that we will never take the oath of fidelity to the Queen of Great Britain, to the prejudice of what we owe to our king, to our country and to our religion ; and that if any attempt were made against one or the other of these two articles of fidelity, that is to say, to our king and to our law, that in that case we are ready to quit all, rather than to violate, in the least thing, one of those articles. Besides, we do not yet know in what manner the English will use us. If they burthen us in respect to our religion, or cut up our settlements to divide the land with people of their nations, we will abandon them absolutely. We know further, from the exact visit we have made, that there are no lands on the whole Island of Cape Breton which would be suitable for the maintenance of our families, since there are not meadows sufficient to nourish our cattle, from which we draw our principle subsistence.' " Felix Pain gives us definite information as to the Population of Minas in a census dated October 5th, 1714. There was a total of 1,290 souls. The families gi^ us fifty-four surnames, viz, ; 44 GRAND-PRi. Aucoin, Breau, Grange, Pinet, Babet, Chauvet, Hebert, Eembaud, Baguette, Commeau, Jasmin, Eichard, Braillot, Coperon, Landry, Eieul, Benoit, D'Aigre, Laroche, Roy, Blanchard, D'Arois, Leblanc, Saunier, Bodart, Douaron, Lejeune, Sire, Boutin, Doucet, Leprince, Teriau, Boucher, Dugas, Martin, Thibadeau, Boisseau, Dupuis, Melanson, Toussaint, Bourg, Forest, Michael, Trahan, Bourq, Gautereau, Mouton, A^incent, Boudrot, Girouard, Perrine, Voyer. Brasseaux, Godet, The following letter will show why Vetch did not let the Acadians depart. It was written to the Lords of Trade, England: " London, Nov. 24th, 1714. " My Lord, — " In answer to Your Lordships' Queries, delivered to me by Mr. Secretary Popple, upon the 23rd of this instant, my most humble opinion is as follows : " As to the number of the familys of French Inhabi- tants in the countrys of L'Accady and Nova Scotia, by the best account I could get during the space of three years and more I had the honor to command there, they were computed to be about five hundred family's, at the rate of five persons to a family, which makes two thousand five hundred souls. " As to the next. How many of them it is supposed will remove ? By the last advices from thence, they had obliged themselves under their hands all to remove save two family's, viz., one Mr. Allen and one Mr. Gourday, both of which had lived iu New England formerly. GRAND-PRi. 45 " As to the 3rd Querle, How many family's may be upon Cape Breton ? That I cannot pretend to be so exact in. But according to the best advices, I could learn they are said to be now about five hundred famllys, besides the gar- rison, which I consider consists of 7 companys already. The French King, to encourage them to settle the place, gives them eighteen months' provisions, and assists them with ships and salt, to carry on the Fishery. " As_ to the 4th, What may be the consequence of the French moving from Nova Scotia to Cape Breton ? They are evidently these : First, their leaving that country entirely destitute of inhabitants. There being none but French and Indians (excepting the Garrison) settled in those parts ; and as they have intermarried with the Indians, by which, and their being of one Religion, they have a mighty influence upon them ; so it is not to be doubted but they will carry along with them to Cape Breton both the Indians and their trade, which is very considerable. And as the accession of such a number of inhabitants to Cape Breton will make it at once a very populous colony (in which the strength of all the Coun- try consists), so it is to be considered that one hundred of the French, who were born upon that continent and are perfectly known in the woods, can march upon snoe- shoes and understand the use of Birch Canoes, are of more value and service than five times their number of raw men, newly come from Europe. So their skill in the fishery, as well as the cultivating of the soil, must in- evitably make the island, by such an accession of people, and French, at once the most powerful colony the French have in America, and of the greatest danger and damage to all the British Colony's, as well as the universal trade of Great Britain. . . . " As to the next question, which relates to the time of the French's removing from Nova Scotia with their effects; I am informed several of them, who have no very great substance, are already removed thither this summer, and that the rest design to do so next summer, as soon as their harvest is over and the grain got in. As to the 46 GRAND-PRt. number of the cattle they may carry away (if permitted) and what will be the conseQuences of the same, I have been informed when upon the place, that there may be about five thousand Black Cattle, besides a great number of Sheep and Hoggs, in all that country, the greater part of which, no doubt, they will carry off, if permitted. " The consequences are evidently these : First, it will Intirely strip that Colony of the above cattle of all sorts, and reduce it to its primitive state. To replenish' which at the same rate (it now is from New England the nearest Colony to it, which is one hundred and ten leagues) at a moderate computation of freight only for the transporta- tion of such a number of Black Cattle and a proportionate number of Sheep and Hoggs, will cost above forty thousand pounds, besides the long time it will require to stock that country. . . . " As to the last Querie that comes under my cognizance, viz., the consequence of allowing the French to sell their lands in those parts : First, as it would entirely disap- point the settlement of that valuable country ; because it is never to be supposed that any person will go to buy land in a new country, when in all His Majesty's planta- tions abroad there is such encouragements, of land gratis, to such as will come and settle in them. " Secondly. It would be a breach of the Public faith, contained in Her Majesty's Royal Instructions, when the reduction of the place was undertaken, by which the lands are promised away to the Captors, for their encourage- ment to reduce the same. Nor is there any article in the treaty of peace that entitles the French to any such privileges. Nay, moreover, I am of the opinion that by the treaty the French inhabitants are either allowed to remove, if they designed it, or at least to make a demand of the same, in a year's time after the ratification of the treaty, neither of which was done. Nor would the inhabi- tants have offered to go, had they not been not only im- portuned but threatened by the French officers. In the French king's name, to be treated as rebels if they did GRAND-PRi. 47 not remove, which, how far that is consistent with the Treaty, Is, with the foregoing particulars, most humbly submitted to Your Lordships' consummate wisdom by, " May It please Your Lordships, " Your Lordships' most humbly devoted Servant, " Samuel Vetch." Nicholson arrived in Port Royal in July, 1714, and the matter of the departure of the Acadians came up before him. They were waiting, ready to depart OD his permission. He was made to realize very soon what a loss the Province would sustain if the Acadians were permitted to go; and to save time he referred the question again to the Queen, although she had stated that they had the privilege of leaving the couji- try if they so wished. Unfortunately, the Queen died in August of the same year, and the matter was never settled. Delay after delay followed, with pretext and subterfuge, fraud and deception. The people of Minas did not sow their lands in 1715, having enough grain to live on for two years, and so sure were they of departing. They were refused transportation in Eng- lish vessels. French vessels were forbidden to enter Acadian ports. When they built their own vessels they were refused permission to buy rigging at Louisburg or Boston; and finally their vessels were seized. Later they were threatened that if they left the country all their property would be taken from them, and they would be left but a little provision. It is too plainly apparent that the Acadians were not to leave the coun- try with the consent of the governors. From 1713 to 1730 every effort was made to compel the Acadians to take the oath of allegiance. The events of these few 48 GRAND-PRt. years are the key of the whole Acadian question, over , which there has been so much dispute, and about which so much has been written. The facts have come to light only within a few years; nor has any attempt been made to controvert them. It is painful to read of the events which follow. In view of aU the circumstances, the Acadians were remarkably faithful to the government under which they lived. They were kept iu the country that- they might serve their masters. If, at times, they were wrongly influenced by their own countrymen, it was a natural and spontaneous movement on the part of these harassed people, and had everything to excuse it. Their industry and skill made them a part of the country. Their patience was almost beyond belief, in toleration of the harshness, tyranny and fraud practised upon them. Their nature was calm and peaceful. Who will blame them because they looked fondly to the flag of their country and to the home of their religion, since they were always looked upon with suspicion, and treated as slaves and enemies by their petty rulers? Caulfield became Governor in 1715. He sent two officers, Peter Capoon and Thomas Button, to Minas, to proclaim King George, and to tender the oath to the Acadians. We have their reply to these officers: "We have the honor to signify to you that no, one can be more thankful than we are for the kindness of King George, whom we recognize as the lawful sov- ereign of Great Britain, so graciously shows us, under whose rule it will be for us a real joy to remain, -as he is such a good prince, if we had not since last sum- mer made engagements to return under the rule of the GRAnD-PRA 49 King of Prance, having even given our signatures to the officer sent in his name, contrary to which we can- not act until their two Majesties of Prance and England have disposed of us otherwise. However, we bind our- selves with pleasure and gratefulness, while we remain here in Acadia, to do or undertake nothing against His Britannic Majesty King George, of whose proclamation to the Crown we are witnesses, which was made by you, sirs, in presence of the inhabitants of the said places, at Minas, this 12th of March, 1715, we, the under- signed, acting and being authorized by all the inhabit- ants to act, according to the power of attorney which they have given us. — Jacques Le Blanc, Antoine Le Blanc, Charles Babin, Jessemin Philippe Melanson, Claude Landry, Pierre Terriau, Rene Le Blanc, Pierre Eichard, Jacques Le Blanc, Francois Eimbaut, Ger- main Terriau, Jean Le Blanc, Martin Aucoin," etc., etc. This shows the determination of the Acadians to depart, though reluctant to do so, as soon as it was possible to go with the consent of the Crown. This was their desire the next year. At this time Minas was the only grain plantation, and was supplying the garrison at Annapolis, which was almost destitute and without credit. The condition of affairs was changed under the next Governor, Doucette, in 1717. While the French were ready to leave the country, the Indians were friendly; but when it appeared that the Acadians, tired of the delay in the settlement of affairs regarding their leav- ing, or remaining ia, the country, were disposed to remain on terms of peace with the English Government, the Indians began to threaten them. Doucette de- 4 50 GRAND-PRi. manded of them the oath, which they had refused up to this time because it tied them to the country. They claimed the right to depart with their property. If they were to remain it would be on condition that they were to be protected from the Indians, and their oath was not to compel them to bear arms against their own countrymen. This was the difficulty in the way of a peaceful settlement of the matter. The gov- ernors expected the Acadians to take an unqualified oath of allegiance, and the people never did so. The eight deputies appointed every year to represent the two sections of Minas, one on the north, Canard, and the other so often called Minas, were invested with no judicial authority or Judiciary power, though often acting as arbitrators in small cases. Appeals were made to the governor and council. These deputies acted in behalf of the people, published the orders of the governor, and represented the people in petitions and requests. On May 9th, 1720, those of the people who became British subjects were offered the free exercise of their religion, and their estates ensured to them and pos- terity, and all their civil rights. In case they could not decide upon their representatives the governor appointed Alexander Bourg, James Le Blanc, Paul Melanson and Peter Brows. Official letters and notices were translated into French and given to the people in that language. This was the practice from 1730 to 1755. The alternative offered them was to leave the country without taking any of their goods or cattle, which would be forfeited. The governor, shortly after, in a letter, speaks of the gramd-PrA. 61 many proofs of his kindness, and the lenity of his gov- ernment. They said in reply that they feared the savages if they took the oath of allegiance, but that they promise to be faithful and do no hostile act against the right of His Majesty while they remain in his dominion. They also explain that they could not leave the country in the year allowed them in the articles of peace, because the privilege granted them to sell their estates was use- less, as there was no one to buy them. It can be seen that it was not desired that they should leave the coun- try, and that every effort was made to compel them to bind themselves with the full power of an oath that in its whole meaning they could not take. The French governors tried to get the people to remove to those places occupied by them, but the inducements were not sufficient for them to leave the rich lands they were now occupying. Nor did the English governors wish to lose their chief source of supplies. They felt more or less independent of all restraint, and the Minas people were more difficult to control than those near the fort at Annapolis. " All orders sent to them, if not suiting to their humors, are scoffed and laughed at, and they put themselves upon the footing of obeying no govern- ment." We have the following account and description of Minas, written in 1720: "Minas, called by the French Les Mines, has its name from the copper mines which are said to be about it, especially at one of the capes, which divides the Bay of Fundy, and is called Cap Des Mines, or Cape Dorg. This town* lies thirty leagues by sea and about twenty-two by • Grand-Prfi. 52 GRAND-PRt. land east-north-east from Annapolis Royal, on the same side of the Bay of Fundy. The harbor there, or rather the road. Is very wild and insecure. The vessels trading there, which seldom exceed forty or fifty tons In burthen, take the opportunity of the tide, which commonly rises nine or ten fathoms, and run up the creek (Dead Dyke) to the town (Grand-Pr§), where when the tide leaves them, they lie on a bank of mud, which stretches five or six miles before it reaches low-water mark. This place might be made the granary,' not only of this province, but also of the neighboring governments. There is a flat of meadow (Grand-Pr6 Dyke) which stretches along for near four leagues, part of which is dammed in from the tide, and produces very good wheat and peas. " The rest of the meadows might be with some labor dammed in also, and if peopled with industrious inhabi- tants, might be of very great advantage, not only in regard to this Province, but as is mentioned above, for the supply of the neighboring Governments. " The houses, which compose a kind of scattering Town, lie on a rising ground along two Cricks, which run betwixt it and the meadow, and make of this last a kind of Peninsula. This place has great store of Cattle and other conveniences of life, and in the road they catch white porpoises — a kind of fish, the blubber of which turned into oil yields a good profit. "The Inhabitants of this place and round about it are more numerous than those of the British River (Anna- polis River), besides the number of Indians which often resort here, and as they have never had any force near them to bridle them, are less tractable and subject to command. All the orders sent to them, if not suiting to their humors, are scoffed and laughed at, and they put themselves upon the footing of obeying no government. It will not be an easy matter to oblige thiese Inhabitants to submit to any terms which do not entirely square to their humors unless a good force be landed there, and a Port or redoubt of earth be thrown up, well ditched, friezed and palllsaded, till a more durable be built. This redoubt grand-prA. 53 must have four pieces of cannon (sakers) and command the meadow, which is their treasure. The force sent for that purpose must be three or four hundred men, the reason of which will appear when it is considered when the wildness of the harbor will not make it safe for any Ship of force to remain there to give countenance to such an undertaking, and even if she could anchor safely it must be at the distance of twelve miles from the place where the said redoubt is to be built, and that any other vessels which must be employed to carry the troops and workmen must lie ashore dry sixteen hours, at least, of the twenty-four, and may be liable to be burned, and thereby out off the retreat of those employed in this work, unless they are able to defend themselves and to make head against the inhabitants and Indians, who will never suffer it to go on if not kept in awe by a sufficient force. The redoubt should be capable to receiving a hundred and fifty men, which will be enough to curb the Inhabitants till they grow more loyal, or better be put in their stead." In 1739, General Phillips took the reins of power at Annapolis. He at once issued a proclamation to the Acadians declaring they must take the oath without reserve, or leave the country within three months. At the same time he prohibited them from selling, dis- posing of, or taking away any of their effects. He believed that this order would bring about the desired result, that of binding the Acadians to the country by means of the oath. They refused to comply, however, as they had always done, stating that the Indians were threatening them with revenge if they were omitted from the reservation. They were willing to retire from the country, and asked that they might wait till the seed they had put in should mature, as they now had very little to guBt^ifl their families. They asked per- 54 GRAND-PR£. mission to carry it away with them in vehicles they had or they would make. Philipps interpreted the clause of the treaty that gave them the right to carry away their movable effects, cattle, etc., to mean simply to sell or dispose of them. They faced the difficulty, and set about preparing to depart by the only way left, without sacrificing everything, and that was by land. To do this a road was necessary; so they began to make one from Minas to Annapolis. Very soon the Governor issued the following proclamation: " I do further forbid any person to quit their inhabita- tions clandestinely and without my leave." A special order was sent to Minas, " Not to cut any such road with- out having His Excellency's leave in writing." The reason assigned for this further obstruction of the Acadlans was that they had design to molest Annapolis, or to drive off their cattle and effects to settle at Beaubassin, now a fortified position and in possession of the French, to stand in defiance of the Government. Their real purpose was divined, but it was not the intention of the Governor to allow them to leave the country. Philipps speaks of the Acadlans as being ungovernable, headstrong, and directed by bigoted priests. He says further, ' We cannot let them go just now ; their departure would render our neighbors too powerful ; we need them to erect our fortifications, and to provision our forts till the English are powerful enough of themselves to go on, and they must not with- draw before a considerable number of British subjects be settled in their stead. If they withdraw in spite of us a great many fine possessions will become vacant. I believe it will not be diflUcult to draw as many people almost from New England as would supply their room, if It were not robbing a neighboring colony, without gaining much by the exchange ; therefore, I hope there are schemes form- ing at home to settle the country with British subjects in ]the spring, before which time these inhabitants do no^ GRAND-PRjt. 55 think of moving, having the benefit of enlargement of time I granted. What is to be apprehended in the re- settling of these farms is disturbance from Indians, who do not like the Acadians going off, and will not want prompting mischief." Doucette was again Governor from 1722 to 1725, when he was succeeded by Akmsteong, a man of harsh temper and violent action. The records show that this man was at variance with everybody within his reach, at one time or other, inhabitants, officers, soldiers or priests. 5is arrival caused the departure of some of the French families, and the others were resolved to \ depart. This demanded a change of demeanor, as, with the other governors, he felt how important it was to keep the people in the country. By affirming that the laws of Great Britain did not permit a Roman Catholic to serve in the Army, he succeeded in getting the Acadians of Annapolis to take the oath of ^allegiance. The rest of the Province, about three-fourths of the population, were yet to be brought to terms. Two officers whom he sent to Minas failed to make theiii British subjects. Subsequently Armstrong sent a young officer named Wroth, with ample powers, to deal with the people as the case demanded. Copy of the oath, as obtained by Wroth : "I do sincerely promise and swear that I will be faithful and bear true allegiance to His Majesty King George the Second, so help me God." Articles granted to the inhabitants of Minas: "I, Robert Wroth, etc., etc., promise and grant in the pame of the King, etc., etc,, to the inhabitants of Minas, 56 GRAND-PR]^. etc., the articles here below that they have requested of me, namely : " 1. That they shall he exempt from taking up arms against anyone, so long as they shall be under the rule of the King of England. " 2. That they shall be free to withdraw whithersoever they will think fit, and that they shall be discharged from this signed agreement as soon as they shall be outside the dominions of the King of England. " 3. That they shall have full and entire liberty to practice their religion and to have Catholic, Apostolic and Roman priests." The Governor accused Wroth of making too free use ,of his power, and when the matter came up before the Council, the oath was declared null and void, but the inhabitants were held as being British subjects. We have now come to an important chapter in the account of the Acadians. The Lords of Trade in Eng- land were not pleased with the result of Armstrong's dealing with the question of the oath. Philipps was called upon again to act as Governor. Knowing the people he had to deal with, he was well prepared to treat with them. He was well received in the Province, ,and a short time after he arrived at Annapolis, in December of 1739, the people of that place took the oath of allegiance. It was too late in the season to go over the country to visit the other French centres, but [ by April of the following year the inhabitants of Minas \ also had become British subjects. Philipps allowed the restrictive clause by a verbal agreement, which ex- empted the Acadians from bearing arms and fighting against the French and Indians. Philipps realized the impossibility of compelling the people to fight against grand-prA. 5*1 their own countrymen ; and to compromise in the diffi- culty, the qualifying clause was not embodied in the copy of the oath. 'No threats or attempts to compel the people were used. Although they had increased greatly in population, they showed themselves ready to yield to proper treatment, so long as their confidence was gained and no harsh measures were adopted. The people drew up a certificate, attested to by their priest, Charles de la Goudalie and the king's receiver, their notary, Alexan- der Bourg, called iellehumeur. This document was addressed to the Minister of Foreign Affairs in Paris as a record of the act. Philipps was active in the administration of the affairs of Government. He ordered that all quit-rents, homages, and other services formerly paid by the people to their respective seigneurs should be paid to the Eng- lish representatives. Bourg, from the time of his aippointment in December 10th, 1730, was to receive these dues, and to report twice a year. He received 3s. per pistole (about $3.00) collected. The road between Minas and Port Eoyal was ordered to be cleared, and every inhabitant was expected to do his share of the work. The people were prohibited from exporting beasts, cattle or any provisions, except from Annapolis, under a penalty of fifty pistoles. This was to prevent scarcity of provisions, as they depended upon the supplies of the Acadians. Some of the people were at this time summoned to' Annapolis to answer the charge of having aided the escape of a John Turno from his master at Boston. They were from Grand-Pre. Amand Bujeau, Jean Jjandry, Jean Le Blanc, Peter Allen, as being more 58 GRAND-PRi.. directly responsible, were compelled to give security for the return of Turno. When Philipps was recalled to England he said of his successor, Armstrong, that he " is turning up every stone, and raking into every kennel, to find some dirt to bespatter me with, in hopes that some may stick." It was such men as these who often made history against the Acadians. They ruled them, made their laws, accused them and condemned them, all too easily, and made the record by whioh they are judged by the opinion of to-day. CHAPTEE VI. French Neutrals — Armstrong — Mascarene. 1730-1747. Feom this date, 1730, the Acadians were known as Fkench Neuteai^s. This was the first real step taken by the people that would have led up to their full allegiance to the British Crown, had the proper methods been followed later in dealing with the people. They were slowly realizing that their only hope of safety lay with England, and in being united with the English colonies, although there was so poor a represen- tation of power in the Province until the founding of Halifax. The show of power, dignity, and often of arrogance, on the part of the Government did not always inspire confidence, when backed only by a half-starved and weak garrison manning a tumble-down fort. The French of Canada, on the other hand, always claimed them; but on several occasions they - refused to obey the French, even when strong influence and harsh threats were brought to bear upon them. , The Acadians were not more illiterate than many : isolated sections of New England. They were hard- i working and skilful in their special labors. They knew the value of money, and learned where their trade inter- ests were best. A high moral standard was always characteristic of the people as a whole. The strength 59 60 GRAND-PRi. of their religious, national and domestic attachment cannot be denied. To be left unmolested was the great desire of these simple and honest peasants. Social equality ruled them, and their domestic morals cannot be questioned. Now that the vexatious question of the oath was settled, the people of Minas were left in comparative quiet and increased rapidly in strength and wealth. For twenty years they enjoyed a certain measure of comfort and happiness in their increasing prosperity. Armstrong became Governor again in 1731, and remained at the head of affairs for nine years. He committed suicide in 1739. Armstrong was of an irritable and jealous disposition, and was seldom at peace even with his own ofBcers and people. Fortun- ately Minas was some distance away from him, and in direct communication with Annapolis only about half the year, the Government being represented by the notary, Alexander Bourg, who was receiver of the rents and revenues of the Crown. In 1733 Armstrong wished to establish a fort at Hinas, but was prevented by the Indians.* At another time he wished to force upon * In May, 1732, Armstrong entered into a contract with Rene Le Blanc lor the erection of a granary or magazine, which he intended as a barracks for troops. This aroused the Indians in opposition to the measure, and it was finally dropped. The council had been kept in ignorance of the purpose of the Governor. The order to Le Blanc was : " I hereby order and empower you, Reng Le Blanc, of Menis, to prepare and have in readiness, timber fit for building a granery or magazine for His Majesty's service, of 26 feet, French measure, of width within, and 60 feet In length, and to have them all in readiness to be erected upon my arrival at Menis, or otherways as I shall think proper to direct, and all other necessaries for building the game ; ag aJ§P * thousand pieces of other timbers, of 14- GRAND~PRt. 61 the people a priest, Father Isidoi?e, who had been inter- dieted for some offence by the ecclesiastical authorities. He effected his purpose, with the result that the people refused to attend church. Then, to punish them. Arm- ' strong refused them a priest altogether. It will be interesting to note the condition of the AcADiANS with regard to their land at the begianing of Mascarene's administration as Lieutenant-Governor. ISTo new grants of land had been made under Philipps or Armstrong, as unappropriated land was granted to Protestants only. Acadian families had grown up, and the population had increased to a great extent. At Minas nearly all the available marsh land had been dyked in. All the farms had been divided and re- divided, as became necessary. Some had been com- ' pelled to remove to other parts of the province. This, state of affairs led more or less to litigations on account of unsettled boundaries, as land became more necessary^; and retarded them in the progress they would other- foot long about and about eight or nine Inches diameter, with a sufiBcient quantity of binders proper for the same, and in so doing this shall be your warrant. Given, etc " L. Armstrong." As a result of this order Ren6 Le Blanc was insulted and threatened by three Indians from Piziquid, and the inhabitants generally were blamed for this interference. In 1735 Armstrong visited Minas to renew the treaty with the Indians, and to tender the oath to those who had not taken it. Committees of the council were held thereon the 17th, 19th, 24th, 26th, 28th of April. The most of the grants had been brought in and examined, and questions of boundaries had been settled. Orders were given for the repair of fences and dykes, and for the repair of the road between Minas and Piziquid. The proceedings con- tinued till the 9th of May. M. de la Goudalie was priest at this time. 62 GRAND-PRi. wise have made. It gives us also an idea of the patience with which they tolerated the rigorous rule of their governors. This difficulty was never removed. Masca- rene did much to gain the respect of the French. He was the son of a French Protestant, and had won his way by his own merit to the high position he now held. He possessed qualifications which fitted him well for the trying position he was called upon to fill — cour- teous, humane, dignified, firm, and of strong and noble character. > France and England were at war in 1744. France jiwas very desirous of regaining Acadia; and to this end it was believed by the authorities in Canada that the Acadians would at once lend their aid. A new and later generation had' sprung up, and, as subsequent events proved, the English had little to fear from the Acadians, with all the influence and threats they were subjected to. Mascarene was not without doubt as to which way the people might turn. Acadia was invaded four times by the French, and every effort was made to secure the assistance of the habitants, but without avail. This was the order issued by the commander of the first expedition : " We order you to deliver up your arms, ammunition . . . and those who contravene these orders shall bo punished and delivered into the hands of the Indians, as we cannot refuse the demands these savages make for all those who will not submit themselves." The reply to this was: , "We, the inhabitants of Mines, Grand-Pre, Eiver Canard, Piziquid and the surrounding rivers, beg that you will be pleased to consider that while there would GkAMD-PRi. 63 be no difficulty, by virtue of the strong force you com- mand, in supplying yourself with the quantity of grain and meat you have ordered, it would be quite impossible for us to furnish the quantity you demand, or even, a smaller, without placing ourselves in great peril. " We hope, gentlemen, that you will not plunge both ourselves and families into a state of total loss; and that this consideration will cause you to withdraw your savages and troops from our districts. "We live under a mild and tranquil govei-nment, and we have all reason to be faithful to it. We hope, therefore, that you will not separate us from it, and that you will grant us the favor not to plunge us into utter misery. This we hope from your goodness, assur- ing you that we are, with very much respect, " Your very humble and obedient servants, " Acting for the communities above mentioned, " Jacques Le Blanc, " PiEREE Le Blanc, " Francois Le Blanc, " Rene ( X) Granger, his mark, " Claude Le Blanc, "Jacques Terreau, "Antoine Landry, "Joseph (X) Granger, his mark, " Pierre Eichaed, " Eene Le Blanc." The expedition being unsuccessful at Annapolis, it was proposed to winter the soldiers at Minas, but the people objected so strongly they were obliged to with- draw. CHAPTER VII. Noble at Grand-Pr6 — March of Coulon — Attack at Grand- Pr6 — Capitulation of the English — Retaking of Grand-Pr6. 1747-1748. France was particularly unfortunate in her attempt to retake Acadia. She had lost Louisburg, the great- est fortress in America, and in 1747 she sent a large fleet to recover it, and get possession of Acadia. As was natural, great excitement was caused by the report of these proceedings. In Canada it was believed that the Acadians would assist the undertaking and rise against English rule. There were but two hundred and twenty soldiers at Annapolis, but New England took active measures to protect the territory, and companies of militia were soon drafted and sent to the Province. A detachment of troops was sent from Quebec to co- operate with the French fleet, under the command of Chevalier de Ramesay. He arrived at Chebucto, now Halifax, early in the spring of 1747. The ships not having arrived, he proceeded to Annapolis. Hearing no tidings of the French, he began the long journey back to Quebec by way of Minas, Beaubassin, St. John. Meanwhile part of the fleet arrived at Chebucto, and orders were sent to Ramesay to return, whieli he did, making the tedious march back to Annapolis in Sep- tember. Here he waited in vain for the fleet to appear, 64 GRAND-PRt. 65 till, losing hope, he for the second time began the toil- some march to Quebec. Storm and plague had destroyed the largest fleet France had ever sent across the waters. Mascarene at Annapolis had sent to Massa- chusetts for aid. In response to this appeal Shirley, Governor of that State, sent 500 volunteers under the command of Colonel Ahthuk Noble.* This ofl&cer had already seen service as Lieutenant-Colonel of a regiment at the seige of Louisburg, in 1745, and had shown conspicuous bravery in leading an attack. He had been home but a few months when he was called again to go to Nova Scotia. New England felt that it would be a serious menace to its interests to lose the Province. Farming and trading had made a fortune for Colonel Noble. On a considerable area of land on the Kennebec he had a palisaded fort to protect his estate from the savages. ♦Arthur Noble and his brothers James and Francis came to Boston In 1720, in one of Captain Robert Temple's vessels. They seem to have formed a part of a Scotch settlement in Ireland, and hailed from BnnisklUen, County Fermanagh. James Noble settled in Boston, was successful in business, married Jane, sister of Colonel Wm. Vaughan, lived on Friend Street, and is buried in the grounds of King's Chapel. Arthur Noble went to Maine, and in 1735 was living at Pleasant Cove, Georgetown, at the mouth of the Kennebec River on the land laid out by the Penobscot Company, purchased from Stephen Minot, and adjoining land of Adam Winthrop. He was early a man of local promin- ence ; traded exclusively in furs and hides with his brothers in Boston ; owned a large tannery ; was a Pres- byterian and active in church matters ; sold land, and gave right of way to Rev. Wm. McClenachan for a church, and was early known as Lieut. Noble. , „ . ^ He received a commission in the Second Massachusetts Regiment from Governor Shirley. General Samuel Waldo was brigadier. He served with distinction at Louisburg, 66 GRAND-PRt. Arriving at Annapolis in the autumn of 1747, the first detachment of men was sent to Minas by water. Severe weather turned them back, however, and in November about one hundred men marched overland, the ground being frozen. These were quartered on the inhabitants. The remainder sailed for the same place in ships with their cannon and munitions of war, and the frame of a blockhouse. Storms, drifting ice, and the strong tides of the Bay of Fundy, made their pas- sage so dangerous and difficult that Noble resolved to finish the journey by land. On the 4th of December the force disembarked at French Cross, or Morden, about forty miles from their destination. Snow cov- ered the ground, and the whole country was a forest. Without paths and without guides, the party crossed the North Mountain and pushed their way across the country towards the road from Annapolis which led them to the French settlements farthest up the Corn- his regiment occupying the abandoned Royal or Grand Battery ; and lie was specially designated by General Waldo to lead with picked men one of the perilous night assaults upon the famous Island Battery at the entrance of the harbor. ' In 1746, Shirley planned for anothej' expedition to Can- ada. Noble raised a company of 100 men, but the expedi- tion was abandoned. On the "urgent call of Lieut.-Govemor Mascarene at Annapolis for troops, Noble was placed at the head of a regiment Of 470 men, and despatched f6r the Bay i lovniA oj. avon Q Q ■5 < q: CL a 2 < QC o \ in j^ ->. J_ < U > O o 30vn/A oiavop CHAPTEE X. Winslow at Grand-PrS — Proclamation Issued — First Embarkation — Second Embarkation— Final Embarkation. 1755. We now find Winslow at Geand-Pre. He had arrived on the 15th, and took up Ms quarters on the plain where the church and the priest's house were. The tents of the soldiers were pitched about the churchyard, and Winslow occupied the priest's house which overlooked the encampment on the east; this had been vacant since August 4, when Ahbe Chauvreulx had been made prisoner and taken to Fort Edward. The officers were lodged in a small house near by. The sacred things of the church had been removed by the elders of the village, on the order of the commander, and it became an arsenal and storehouse. Prepara- tions were made at once to surround the camp with a palisade, to prevent surprise, and to protect the position against any possible attack. The place was well chosen. The church was large enough to hold several hundred people, and was in future to serve as a prison for four hundred men, besides a large guard of soldiers. The position, while commanded by the slope and hills on the south, the wealth of the people, the rich meadows of Grand-Pre, lay to the north, east and west. Beyond Long Island stretched the broad 105 106 GRAND-PRt. Basin of Minas, and in the blue of the farther shore Blomidon loomed. The site of the camp was a piece of " upland " rising out of the dykeland, containing about fourteen acres. This stood north of the Village of Grand-Pre, with willow trees marking the roads which traversed it, and, while dominated by the slope of the village itself, lay isolated upon the green breast of the wide meadows, which stretched in unbroken level to the north, west and east. This spot had been precious to the Acadians for many many years, for the graveyard held the many relatives and friends, whose eyes were not to see this last desecra- tion of their most sacred possessions. The comfort of their church was denied them. The spires of St. Charles bore the flag which represented justice and humanity, and was to be the guise under which the ends of cruelty and rapacity were to be served; worked out with the most exacting system, and concealed with the elaborate skill of intelligent minds. On the gentle slope rising to the south lay the village with its scattered houses. On the east and west a continuous line of dwellings marked the hillside. Willows and apple-trees, gardens and pastures, and the fruitful dyke-lands to the river banks filled the land with vistas of beauty and peace. Yet an armed host was in the midst of the people, who were without suspicion, and who went about their daily tasks unconscious of the impending fate that was to waste their lands, destroy the fruits of their labors, their property and homes. But what was the utter loss of their worldly goods to the sorrow of being separated from the land that had been their home for so many years! The very tides and airs, GRAND-PRt. 107 and the forests and dyke-lands were there, and homes could be restored, if only they could return. But this was not to be. The land was for other peoples. The loss of aU their wealth was as nothing beside this greatest loss of their lives, never to be made up. Colonel John Winslow, in command at Grand-Pre, was sprung from the early governors of Plymouth colony, had seen considerable military service, and on several occasions had left his Marshfield farm to serve the country. He was now fifty-four years of age, with little education, though a thorough soldier. When it was decided to attack the position at Beausejour, held by the French, Winslow was commissioned by Shirley, Governor of Massachusetts to raise two thousand volimteers. He was able to do so in a short time, and was made lieutenant-colonel in command of one of the two battalions which composed it. Farmers, yeomen, fishermen, shopkeepers and various trades- men from all over the country enlisted for the service. Winslow found himself pleasantly situated at Grand- Pre. The people were not troublesome, and in a short time the soldiers off duty were given to wandering through the villages, though not on friendly terms with the inhabitants. Captains Osgood, Adams and Hobbs were with Winslow. Fifteen miles away, on the bank of the Piziquid, was Fort Edward, where Captain Murray was in command of a garrison of regulars. When Lawrence learned that Winslow's camp was being fortified, he feared that the people would be alarmed, and he urged him not to arouse their mis- trust. Winslow replied that the Acadians were with- 108 GRAND-PRL out fear, as they supposed the English would be with them all win,ter. The people made no trouble, and the friendly feeling was evinced in their behaviour. They were called upon at once to bring in supplies of bread, flour and fresh meat. Harsh means would have been used to compel obedience, had it been necessary, even with military execution. Minas had to supply Port Edward as well, at one time sixty bullocks being demanded of the inhabitants of Canard and Habitant. No money was paid them for the supplies needed for the troops, as everything of that kind was claimed by the Government. The season had been a good one, and the harvest large. The wheat was ripe, and but for the wet weather the work of gathering the grain would have been well advanced. It was determined that all the grain should be gathered and stored in the granaries, barns and cellars before the Acadians should be told of their fate. When all the work was done and the people placed on board the transports, everything was to be burned and the country left desolate, so that all the Acadians should give themselves up, and that none should return to Minas. The transports were an- chored outside, after having been unloaded of supplies, and more vessels were expected. Meanwhile, Winslow was getting all the information possible in regard to the villages" and the people. The camp was surrounded with a palisade, and regular guards and patrols estab- lished. Card-playLag was prohibited as leading to idleness in the camp. Quoit-playing was not per- mitted within the enclosure because of the damage done to the green sward. Masons and diggers were GRAND-PRt. 109 sinking wells, and every preparation was made for the stay at Grand-Pre. On the 31st of August, Winslow, with a party of fifty men, set out on a tour of inspection, which he reported as taking in two- thirds of Grand-Pre. The day was Sunday, and the afternoon was spent in looking over the country. On the next day Captain Adams, with a party of seventy men, visited the villages of Habitant and Canard; and on the day foUowiag Captain Hobbs visited the village of Melanson, in the valley of the Gaspereau. On the same day the country to the south was ex- plored by Captain Osgood. By the reports thus obtained "Winslow was able to get the location of the villages and the condition of the crops. At Canard was a beautiful church and a country full of inhabi- tants, with abundance of the world's goods. Eeports equally favorable were made of other places visited. Everywhere the Acadians had plenty of provisions, and a good harvest was being gathered in. Winslow had been visited by Murray, and they had arranged a plan of operations. The only thing lacking was the transports, yet to arrive. The commanders agreed that the male inhabitants should be summoned to meet at the church at Grand-Pre, to hear the Icing's orders. Thus the Acadians were to be entrapped in the king's name. The positive orders from Lawrence were to secure the Acadians by stratagem or force, as circumstances demanded, and not the least atten- tion was to be paid to any memorial or remonstrance from the people. No stronger power than the orders of the king could be used to bring the people to- gethef J They looked for a settlement of their affairs. 110 GRAND-PRE. which had long been promised them. Here at last was what they were looking for. The arrangements were complete. The captains, Adams, Hobbs and Osgood, were sworn to secrecy. When the vessels came, only the time for calling the people together, remained to be fixed. On the first of September Winslow wrote Murray that he would meet with him on the next day, as three of the transports had arrived. The French were soon on board making inquiries, but as the. captains had been warned not to let the Acadians know why they had come to Minas, their suspicions were not excited. Eleven more ships were to arrive in a few days. On Tuesday, the 2nd, Winslow set out in a whaleboat for Port Edward, baviag with him " Doctor Whitworth and adjutant Kennedy, to consult with Captn. Murray in this Critical Conjuncter." So runs his journal. They drafted the Proclamation' to the Inhabitants, which was translated into French by Deschamps, a merchant of Piziquid. It was as follows: " To the inhabitants of the district of Grand-Pr6, Minas River, Canard and places adjacent, as well ancients as young men and lads. " Whereas His Excellency the Governor has instructed us of his late resolution respecting the matter proposed to the inhabitants, and has ordered us to communicate the same in person. His Excellency being desirous that each of them should be satisfied of His Majesty's intentions, which he has also ordered us to communicate to you, as they have been given to him : We, therefore, order and strictly, by these presents, all of the Inhabitants as well of the above-named district as of all the other districts, both old and young men, as well as the lads of ten years of, age, fd attend at the church at Grand-Pr6, on Friday, GRAND-PRA. Ill the 5th Instant, at three In the afternoon, that we may impart to them what we are ordered to communicate to them, declaring that no excuse will be admitted on any pretense whatsoever, on pain of forfeiting goods and chattels, in default of real estate. "Given at Grand-Prg, 2nd September, 1755. " John Winslow." We have in Winslow's own words : " 1755, September the 4th. This morning sent for Doctor Eodion (Dr. Whitworth) and delivered him a Citation to the Inhabitants with the Strict Charge to See It Executed, which he Promised Should be Faith- fully Done. " A Fine Day, and the Inhabitants very busy about their harvest," etc. The orders had gone forth, and everything was in readiness for the morrow. The guards had been strengthened, and no one was to leave the line of,, pickets. Powder and ball were served to the men. Besides, the whole camp was under arms. With less than twenty-four hours' notice the Aca- dians appeared at the Grand-Pre from all the villages of Minas. From the Canard, Pereau, and Habitant rivers, from the Gaspereau Valley, from Minas in the west to Avonport in the east,- they came. Four hun- dred AND EIGHTEEN MEN ENTERED THE CHURCH, their own church, which was now their, prison. No suspicion of danger had entered their minds. There was no delay. When the people had entered, Winslow had a table placed in the centre of the church, and accompanied by the officers who were off guard,, and by a strong escort, he took his place to deliver His Majesty's final resolution to the Acadians. 112 GRAND-PRjk. Here he took his stand in his laced uniform; Near him were the New Englanders, " strong, sinewy figures, bearing, no doubt, more or less distinctly the peculiar stamp with which toil, trade and Puritanism had imprinted the features of New England. Their commander was not of the prevailing type. He was fifty-four years of age, with double chin, smooth forehead, arched eyebrows, close powdered wig, and round, rubicund brows, from which the weight of an odious duty had probably banished the smirk of self- satisfaction that dwelt there at other times."* Before him were the sons and fathers of Minas. Strong, sun- burnt children of the soil, they waited anxiously for his words, their dark eyes and black hair in sharp contrast with the grey colors of their homespun. Doubtless many a prayer went up from that dese- crated fane before the full horror of their fate dark- ened their lives. It is a sad picture — almost too sad to contemplate. Winslow then read to the Acadians the following, which is taken from his journal: " Gentlemen, — I have received from his Excellency, Gov- ernor Lawrence, the King's Ck)mmission which I have in my hand, and by whose orders you are Conveyed together, to Manifest to you His Majesty's final resolution to the French inhabitants of this his Province of Nova Scotia, who for almost half a Century have had more Indulgence Granted them than any of his Subjects In any part of his Dominions. What use you have made of them you yourself Best Know. " The Part of Duty I am now upon is what thoh Neces- sary is Very Disagreeable to my natural make and "rem- •His portrait is in the room of thje Massachusetts His- torical Society. GRAND-PRi:. 113 per, as I Know it Must be Grievous to you who are of the Same Specia. " But It Is not my business to annimadvert, but to obey Such orders as I receive, and therefore without Hesita- tion Shall Deliver you his Majesty's orders and Instruc- tions, Vlst.: " That your Lands & Tennements, Cattle of all Kinds and Live Stock of all Sorts are Forfeited to the Crown with all other your Effects Saving your money and House- hold Goods, and you your Selves to be removed from this his Province. " Thus it is Preremptorily his Majesty's orders That the whole French Inhabitants of these Districts be removed, and I am Throh his Majesty's Goodness Directed to allow you Liberty to Carry of your money and Household Goods as Many as you Can without Discommoding the Vessels you Go in. I Shall do Every thing in my Power that all Those Goods be Secured to you and that you are Not Molested in Carrying of them of, and also that whole Family Shall go in the Same Vessel, and make this re- move, which I am Sensable must give you a great Deal of Trouble, as Easey as his Majesty's Service will admit, and hope that In what Ever part of the world you may Fall you may be Faithful Subjects, a Peasable & happy People. " I Must also Inform you That it is his Majesty's Pleasure that you remain in Security under the Inspec- tion & Direction of the Troops that I have the Hour, to Command." He tlien declared them prisoners of the king, and all their horses, cattle, sheep, goats, hogs and poultry forfeited, and no one under his command was to hurt, kill or destroy anything of any kind, or to rob orchards or gardens. Winslow now returned to his quarters at the priest's house, where he was soon followed by a deputation of the older Aoadians, who begged him to 8 114 grand-prL consider the condition of many of their families now that they were not permitted to return to their homes, or to let them know in what condition they' were in. After consultation with his officers, Winslow decided to permit twenty of the men to return to their homes, ten for each side of the Minas River, to inform their relatives that the women and children would be safe from molestation. They were to bring those who had not come in, the remaiuder of the' prisoners being held responsible for the return of the absent. The families and friends of those in the church were ordered to supply food for the prisoners. They were permitted to move about the inclosure, but not farther east than Winslow's quarters. "Thus Ended the Memorable fifth of September, a Day of Great Fatigue & Treble." By the seventh of the month, there were only five transports in the Basin, not half the number required. The prisoners were increased to four hundred and twenty-four. The millers were at work, and the people were as comfortable as could be under their sad circumstances. A strong guard was always posted, and every precaution taken to prevent surprise. On the 10th of September only one hundred of the prisoners had been able to return to their homes to spend one night with their families, twenty at a time being allowed the privilege. On this morn- ing, Winslow had received a memorial from the peo- ple, imploring that they should be permitted to go to places where their own countrymen were, and that they should be given time to prepare for departure. They had probably learned the fate of the other GRAND-PRi. 115 French centres. They agreed to pay all expenses incurred. To preserve their religion they were willing to sacrifice everything else. Of course, nothing was done in their favor. Winslow states that on this morning he observed unusual signs of commotion on the part of the Acadian prisoners. As there were five transports idle, he determined to place fifty of the young men on each of the vessels, and thus lessen the danger of his position at Grand-Pre. He called for Pere Landry, their chief leader, who spoke English, and told him, much to his grief and surprise, that he intended to embark two hundred and fifty of the young men. Landry was ordered to prepare the men at once, as the tide served in an hour and they must be taken away before that time. All the soldiers were under arms, and formed into line. The men who were to depart were drawn up in columns, six deep, on the left of the whole body of the Acadians. Thus they stood between the two gates, in the rear of Winslow's quarters. The scene that followed is indescribable. Here were all the unmarried young men, from ten years and upwards, who were about to be separated from their fathers and brothers. They had been drawn off from the main body and were guarded on all sides by the eighty soldiers under Captain Adams. Bayonets were fixed and it was dangerous to resist. Yet when the order was given to march there was no movement of the Acadians. Every evidence of grief and excitement became mani- fest — cries of anger, tears and pleading for mercy, stubborn refusal to march, calling of father to son, and son to father, of brother to brother. Words can- 116 GRAND-PRE. not paint such, scenes. When the bojs said that they would not go without their fathers, Wiaslow writes that he did not understand the word, and that the king's commands were absolute. The order to march was again given, and the soldiers advanced with fixed bayonets to enforce the command. They were thus compelled to move, and went off praying, singing and crying. A great many of the people from the villages now lined the road to the landing-place on the Gaspereau, a distance of one and a half miles. Many fell on their knees and prayed as the melancholy pro- cession passed, or followed with wailiug and lamenta- tion. Eeaching the shore they were soon hurried on board boats, and carried to the ships, where they remaiued under strict guard until the fleet departed, some time later. On the return of the soldiers, another company of ninety married Acadians were escorted by Captain Osgood and eighty men. Two hundred and thirty of the French were now on board. The faithful wives and mothers brought provisions every day for the captives, the boats coming in at each tide from the vessels that were anchored out in the bay. As many as could go in the boats were permitted to board the ships to see their relatives. The AEMED FORCE AT Grand-Pe:6 consisfed of three hundred and sixty-three men. There was evi- dently considerable hatred shown towards the French people, as Winslow had to make stringent regulations to prevent the soldiers distressing the inhabitants. An oflScer accompanied the soldiers who brought in water for the camp, to prevent them maltreating the GRAND-PRE. 117 people. On one occasion two of the men were flogged for stealing fowls. By the middle of September, Winslow had a list of the Aeadians of the Minas district, and of their live stock of all kinds. Two thousand seven hundred and forty-three persons, with five thousand horned cattle, eight thousand six hundred sheep, four thousand hogs, five hundred horses, were the estimates accord- ing to his list. A fine harvest would have blessed the unfortunate Aeadians had they been able to remain in the country. They were now gathering it in for their enemies, or it would be destroyed. It was difficult for the people to realize that they were to be removed. They did not fully believe it till their lingering hope died with the commencement of their long, sad wandering in a strange country and among a strange and unsympathetic people — a wan- dering that was to leave them destitute, attacked by disease, worn out and heart-broken with the distress of their lives till many were relieved by death. It was the 8th of October before the final embaeka- TiON began. A few more transports had arrived, and as the season was colder, it became necessary to hasten the disagreeable work. Orders had been sent to the people to prepare themselves to go on board the ships. On the 7th, twenty-four Aeadians escaped from two of the vessels. Suspecting one of the men, Francois Hebert, as the contriver or abettor of the escape, whether guilty or innocent, he was ordered ashore, having gone on board that day with his effects, and his house was burned before his eyes. Notice was then given that if the men who had 118 GRAND-PRt. escaped did not return in two days, all their friends would be served in the same manner and all their household goods confiscated. Through the efforts of P^re Landry, who interceded for them, twenty-two of the men returned quietly to the yessels. Two of them were shot by a search party while trying to escape. On the 8th, Winslow wrote : " Began to embark the inhabitants, who went off solentarily (sic) and unwillingly, the women in great distress carrying off their children in their arms; others carrying their decrepit parents in their carts, with all their goods, moving in great confusion, and appeared a scene of woe and distress." Grand-Pre and the Gaspereau valley were cleared of inhabitants in a short time. Vessels were at Boudro's Point, between Canard and Cornwallis rivers, to receive the people of that part of Minas, but there were not enough to accommodate them. They were crowded to suffocation, and much, if not all of their goods, were left on the shore, where they were brought in carts. When the English settlers came in 1760, the remains of carts, furniture and household goods were found where the Acadians were compelled to leave them. Affairs dragged along slowly and wearily until the 37th of October, when the fleet set sail, and conveyed from Minas as many as it was possible to crowd into the transports. There were fourteen vessels, two convoyed by frigates, in this fleet, an average of two hundred and seven to each ves- sel. Three were for Philadelphia, one for Boston, four for Maryland and five for Virginia. Prom Port Edward, Winslow sent an account to Governor Lawrence, dated. October 27th, of what was GRAND-PRi. 119 being done. "We began to embark the inhabitants and shipped the whole of Grand-Pre and Gaspereau, and to expedite the affair sent Capt. Adams with half the party, to encamp between the rivers Canard and Habitant at a place called Boudro Point, where the inhabitants of those rivers, and all of Larure (?), Habitant and Pereau were ordered to be, and in com- pliance of those orders actually came with all their families and effects. ... It was conclud.ed to ship as many of the inhabitants as could be sent by the vessels we had, and forward them to the places to which your Excellency assigned them, which on the 31st was completed, and the transports fell down under the convoy. . . . And although I put in more than two to a ton, and the people greatly crowded, yet remains upon my hands, for want of transports, the whole village of Antoine and Landry, and some of the Canard, amounting to ninety-eight families, and upward of six hundred souls, all of which I removed from Boudro Point to Grand-Pre, where I have at present set them down in houses nearest the camp, and permit them to be with their families upon their word of being at any call ready to embark and answering to their names upon the roll-call at sunset in the camp." All the inhabitants being removed from the north side of Minas Eiver, Winslow ordered the houses and BAENS TO BE BURNED. This was douc ou the Gas- pereau as well. Enough houses to accommodate six hundred and fifty people were left standing in the vicinity of Grand-Pre, and were not destroyed till December. * 120 IRAND-PRi. HOUSES BURNED BY WINSLOW. Houses. Barna. Outhouses. Nov. 2, at Gaspereau 49 39 19 " 5, Canard, Habitant, Pereau. 76 81 33 "6, " " 85 100 75 "7, " " 45 56 28 Total 255 276 155 Houses 255 Barns 276 Outhouses 155 Mills at the several places 11 Church 1 Total 698 Shipment by Winslow 1,510 " Osgood 732 Total 2,242 On the 14th of November Winslow set out for Halifax with an officer and fifty men, ninety men having been despatched to Annapolis on the 3rd. Captain Osgood was left in command at Grand-Pre, where six hundred and fifty Acadians were held till transports should arrive to bear them away. Two vessels sailed with three hundred and fifty of the French on the 13th of December, one for Boston and one for Connecticut; and on the 30th the last of the unfortunate people were sailing away from the country that was never again to be their home, two hundred and thirty persons in two vessels, one for Boston and one for Virginia. I shall not dwell on this closing scene of the GRAND-PRt.^ 121 Acadian occupation of Grand-Pre and Minas. Harsh words are useless. The chief designer, Lawrence, has been stigmatized as having brought about the depor- tation of the Acadians. Of the same blood and race, I have been a dweller of Minas for twenty-three years. My home has been in sight of the, dykes and marshes of the Grand-Pre, the Basin of Miaas. I have visited a great part of the country of Minas once occupied by the Acadians. The willows set out by them mark many of their former villages. Their orchards still bear fruit, and their cellar walls yet mark the places where they lived and died, many of them, and from which hundreds of them were driven to leave their bones in other lands. My ancestors found their way back to Hova Scotia, and settled on the shore of St. Mary's Bay, where their numerous descendants are to-day. By some strange chance I am here, the only Acadian of whom I know, living amid the same scenes that knew the people of Minas from 1671 to 1755. From Historical and Genealogical Record of the first settlers of Colchester County, by Thomas Miller, as told by an Acadian woman who witnessed the events. On the second day of September, 1755, the French In- habitants of Cobequid Village (now Masstown), lying on the north side of the bay, and upper part of the Township of* Londonderry, were engaged in their fields at their work, it being harvest time. With the afternoon tide three vessels were seen coming up the Bay. Two of them prepared to anchor, one opposite the Village, and the other at Lower Cobequid, whilst the third ran further up the shore. Curi- osity was rife. Who were they, and whither were they going ? Their curiosity was still heightened by the appear- ance of a person in the garb of a curate, who informed them that the following notice was posted on the door of the Church : " To the Inhabitants of the Village of Cobequid, and the surrounding shores, as well ancient as young men 122 GRAND-PRt. and lads, ordering them all to repair to the Church the next day at three P. M. and hear what he had to say to them." Signed by John Winslow. Meanwhile the sailors landed, and were freely supplied with milk, and anything they wanted, by the farmers. Small parties of Soldiers landed, chatted with the people, examined their farms, or strolled to the uplands in search of partridges, and in the afternoon of the third day of September they joined the people as they repaired to the Church. The moon rose, and the sisters strolled out and ran to the Church to ascertain the cause of their delay. When they arrived at the Church, to their great astonish- ment, they found it surrounded by soldiers, who answered their inquiries by pointing their bayonets, and ordering them to go home. They met many of the women from the houses nearest the Church, and all anxious and sad at the detention of their friends. At daybreak the following notice was read, which was stuck on the fence opposite the Church : " Cobequid, September 4, 1755. All officers, Soldiers, and Seamen employed in His Majesty's Service, as well as all His subjects, of what denomination soever, are hereby notified that all cattle, viz., horses, homed cattle, sheep, goats, hog^s, and poultry of every kind that was sup- posed to be vested in the French inhabitants of this Pro- vince, have become forfeited to His Majesty, whose prop- erty they now are ; and every person of what denomination soever. Is to take care not to hurt, destroy, or kill any of the above named animals, nor to rob orchards or gardens, or to make waste of anything in these districts, without special order given at my camp, the day and place to be pub- lished throughout the Camp, and_at the Village where the Vessels lie. Signed by John Winslow, Lleut.-Colonel Com- manding." When the people read this notice they were speechless with terror ; death stared them in the face. In the mean- time three hundred men and boys found themselves close prisoners in their own Church. Some of the boys screamed aloud, some attempted to force the door, but they were overawed by the muskets of their guards. Day dawned at length over the wretched prisoners ; they wished to be allowed to return to their families for food ; this was re- fused, but their families were ordered to supply food to them. A few of these prisoners were sent out during the day to inform those who dwelt at a distance from the Church if they did not immediately surrender, their houses would be burnt and their nearest friends shot. One of these messengers attempted to escape ; he was shot, and his house and barn set on fire. Thus the work of destruction wa*" GRAND-PRt. 123 commenced. About 200 married womea and upwards of 100 young women, besides children, were ordered to collect what they could of apparel, and prepare to embark. In vain the men entreated to know whither they were going, but no an- swer was given. By noon, the 5th of September, the beach was piled with boxes, baskets and bundles ; behind them were crowds of weeping women and children ; children cry- ing for their mothers, and mothers looking for their chil- dren ; sick men and bedridden women were carried by strong maidens, or tipped out of their carts which bore them to the spot. A little before highwater the prisoners in the Church were ordered to form six deep and march to the place of embarkation ; they refused to obey the com- mand. The troops were ordered to fix bayonets and advance on the prisoners. This act produced obedience, and they commenced to march. When they came to the beach, and saw their property, their mothers, wives, children, and sisters kneeling on each side of the road, one long, loud wail of anguish went up from them on account of being so suddenly torn away from their houses and homes, the place of their nativity, their flocks and fields, which were then covered with the crops of the season, with some of the wheat cut, and the remainder ready for cutting, and separated from their wives and families, leaving behind them their Church and the graves of their kindred, to be dispersed among strangers in a strange land, — among a people whose customs, laws, language, and religion were strongly opposed to their own. The women were ordered the same afternoon to embark in another ship. About mid- night all were on board, except one or two women who had escaped to visit their forsaken houses the next morning, and witness the sad havoc that had been made the night before by some of the British soldiers who remained, by setting fire to a number of the houses of the village. Among these was the Chapel, of 100 feet in length and 40 feet in breadth, which contained a large, heavy bell. This chapel stood in a field which is now owned by Alexander Vance, near the house of Mr. Lightbody, of Masstown. This place took its name from the fact that the French had their place of worship or Masshouse there. Mr. Vance In- formed the writer, that he had recently ploughed up some of the melted metal of the bell, and the spot upon which it stood was pointed out by Mr. Thomas Fletcher, who was one of the first settlers in this place after the French were driven out. , .^, ^ ^ The transport ship with the men on board drifted down to the mouth of the Avon River, and there awaited the other vessel that had the women 'a'S'S Silas Crane, ^| ""S •« a a g Nathan De Wolf, h | ,= | "g i s „oC Robert Dbnnison, ■" oSfi £S~5 Wm. Welsh." ) ^^ The Frencb- neutrals who were at work for the inhabitants in Kings and' Annapolis were ordered to Halifax. One hundred and thirty were removed in 1762. Eeturns of the families, with their effects, who settled in Cornwallis and Horton for the year 1763: Horton— Families, 122; persons, 689; wheat, 991 bush; rye, 172 bush; Indian corn, 1,070 bush; potatoes, 4,613 bush; horses, 99; oxen, 159; cows, 302; young cattle, 402; gheep, 369; swjne, 162, 152 GRAND-PRt. Cornwallis — Families, 135; persons^ 656; wheat, 1,759 bush; rye, 368 bush; Dats, 3,900 bush; potatoes, 13,569 bush; horses, 133; oxen, 195; cows, 395; young cattle, 469; sheep, 495; swine, 395. Missionaries carried on their work in ways peculiar to their times. A letter written ia 1791 gives us a picture of the day: " As to the religious opinions and professions of the inhabitants I shall only observe in general that a few, and but very few, belong to the Established Church (Scotland) ; a few, but I believe more than the former, are Presbyterian dissenters. The Methodists bear the sway, most all of them Yorkshire. . . . Those of the original settlers from New England who remain have chiefly become New Lights; without prejudice it may be said of both sectaries, that being unenlightened by knowledge and united by delusion, animated by party-spirit and carried away by a religious-like zeal, they seem to vie with each other iu the wildness and the absurdity of their opinions and practices, and they seem to breathe fire and vengeance against each other and against everybody else." Such were the times. The history of the Eev. George GUmore, the second Presbyterian minister in Horton, will be read with in- terest. He was bom ia Antrim, studied in Edinburgh, married and had children in Ireland. Came to Phila- delphia in 1769. Early in the Eevolutionary war he had to flee for his life iuto Canada. In 1785 he was in Halifax making claims for losses resulting from the war, as he had espoused the Loyalist cause. He was granted a farm on a barren hill, and during one GRAND-PRt. 153 winter he and his family lived on potatoes and milk. In his distress he walked to Halifax to mortgage his farm for a barrel of flour, but failed to do so. He continued to preach in Windsor, and finally, in 1791, he came to Horton, where he died in 1811. His grave is in the burying-ground near the old Covenanter Church at Grand-Pre. His gravestone is inscribed in LatiQ. The old Scotch Church at Grand-Pre was begun in 1804, and completed about 1818. This relic is very interesting, and is much visited every year. Old trees surround it and the graveyard adjoining, in which the " forefathers of the hamlet sleep." The stiff, high-backed pews remain, and overlooking the neglected interior yet stand the lofty pulpit and sounding-board. With the growth of Wolfville is naturally associ- ated the development of Acadia University and the increasing strength of the Baptist body in this portion of the country. The first survey of the country provided for the building of towns, but natural conditions favored their growth elsewhere. A small cluster of houses formed near what was called the "Mud Bridge," which has since become Wolfville. Before the railway passed through, vessels were loaded alongside the main street. The rich land and a beautiful situation, with other favoring conditions, the chief of which was the establishing of the college here, led to the development of the university town of Wolfville. Waterworks, electric lights, sewerage, and well laid-out streets and beautiful residences, with all the conditions of a clean town and the promise of continued growth, make this classic 154 GRAND-PR^. centre the rendezvous of tourists wlio seek Grand- Pre. Acadia College sprung into being from the needs of the Baptists for an educational institution at a time when its adherents were a small factor in Nova Scotia. In 1827 several educated young men having adopted Baptist principles and entered the ministry, their influence, with the demands of the older minis- try, brought about the result which has been of so much benefit to Baptist teaching ever since. In March, 1839, the school known as the Horton Academy was opened. In 1836 the collegiate institution was commenced, supported by the Baptists of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. The university and affiliated institutions at the pres- ent time include the College, the Ladies' Seminary and the Academy or Preparatory School, and the Manual Training School. The energy and faith of its supporters are manifest in the effort that is being made for larger endowments to increase the efficiency of the schools. g o < < w H PL, < CHAPTEE XIII. The Origin of "Evangeline." I HAVE been asked many times how it was that Longfellow* came to write his poem " Evangeline." The following is a correct account of it: In 1845 Hawthorne and a Rev. Father ConoUy, of South Boston, dined one day with Longfellow. After dinner the priest said he had been trying to persuade Hawthorne to write a story based upon a legend of Acadia, told to him by Mrs. Haliburton, a mem- ber of his congregation, — the story of a young girl taken from Grand-Pre with all her people. In exile she was separated from her lover, and they sought each other in vain until the girl be- came a Sister of Charity, when, advanced in years, she was one day called to nurse a patient who had been brought low with sickness. In him she recognized the lover of her youth. Longfellow won- dered that this legend did not strike the fancy of Hawthorne, and said to him : " If you have really * Longfellow was born In Portland, Maine, February 27th, 1807, at the corner of Fore and Hancock Streets. His early life was passed in the Longfellow House on Congress Street. His father was a laywer, Stephen Long- fellow ; his mother, Zilpha, daughter of Gen. Peleg Wads- worth. His wife died in 1835. In 1843 he married Miss Fanny Appleton. Her death occurred in 1861. Longfellow died March 24th, 1882, and was buried in Mount Auburn Cemetery, in Cambridge. 156 156 GRAND-PRE. made up your mind not to use the story, will you give it to me for a poem?" Hawthorne assented to this, and promised, moreover, not to treat the subject in prose till Longfellow had seen what he could do with it in verse. It seems that Connoly had been urging Hawthorne to write the story. The priest had been told the facts of the story by Mrs. George Haliburton, an aunt of Judge Haliburton, the author of " Sam Slick." This well-known Nova Scotian published, in 1829, a history of Nova Scotia. He Imew many of the Acadians who had returned to the Province after their wanderings in New England. Longfellow made use of this history and Reynal's work when writing the poem. The picture of Evangeline, opposite page 23 of this volume, was painted by Thomas' Eaed, an English artist. His brother made a steel engraving of it. The picture was taken from the face of a Manchester working girl. " Sat by some nameless grave and thought that perhaps in Its bosom He was already at rest, and she longed to slumber be- side him." — Longfellow. In 1838 Havrthorne wrote: "H. L. C. heard from a French-Canadian a story of a young couple in Acadia. On their marriage-day all the men of the province were summoned to assemble in the church to hear a proclamation. When assembled, they were seized and shipped off to be distributed through New England, among them the new bridegroom. His bride set off ia search of him, wandering about New GRAND-PRt. 157 England all her lifetime, and at last, when she was old, she found her bridegroom on his death-bed. The shock was so great that it killed her likewise." The following extracts taken from his Journal show the development of the poem: November 28th, 1845.— Set about " Gabrielle," my idyl in hexameters, in earnest. I do not mean to let a day go by without adding something, to it. F. [Mrs. Longfellow] and Sumner are both doubtful of the measure. To me it seems the only one for such a poem. . . . December 7th. I know not what name to give to — not my new baby, but my new poem. Shall it 'be " Gabrielle," or " Celestine," or " Evangeline " ? January 8th, 1846. — Striving, but, alas, how vainly ! to work upon " Evangeline." One interruption after another, till I long to fly to the desert for a season. . . . 12th. The vacation at hand. I hope before its close to get far on in " Evangeline." Two cantos are now done, which is a good beginning. . . . May 20th. Tried to work on " Evangeline." Unsuccessful. Gave it up and read LegarS's letters. . . . November 12th. I long to be fairly at work on " Evangeline." But as surely as I hope for a free day something unexpected steps in and deprives me of it. . . . 17th. I said as I dressed myself this morning, To-day at least I will work on " Evangeline." But no sooner had I breakfasted than a note came from , etc. . . . And now it is past eleven o'clock, and the sun shines so brightly upon my desk and papers that I can write no more. . . . December 10th. Laid up with a cold. Moped and mowed the day through. Made an effort, however, and commenced the second part of " Evan- geline." I felt all day wretched enough to give it the sombre tone of coloring that belongs to the theme. 15th. Stayed at home, working a little on "Evangeline ;" plan- ning out the second part, which fascinates me — if I can but give complete tone and expression to it. . . . 17th. Finished this morning and copied the first canto of the second part of " Evangeline." The portions of the poem which I write in the morning I write chiefly standing at my desk here [by the window], so as to need no copying. What I write at other times is scrawled with a pencil on my knee in the dark, and has to be written out afterward. This wiay of writing with a pencil and portfolio I enjoy 158 GRAND-PRi. much ; as I can sit by the fireside and do not use my eyes [then weak]. I see a panorama of the Mississippi adver- tised. This comes very d propos.. The river comes to me instead of my going to the river ; and as it is to flow through the pages of the poem I look upon this as a special benediction. . . . January 14th. Finished the last canto of " Evangeline." But the poem is not finished. There are three intermediate cantos to be written. . . . 26th. Finished second canto of Part II. of " Evangeline." . . . February 23rd. " Evangeline " is nearly finished. I shall complete it this week, together with my fortieth year. . . . 27th. " Evangeline " Is ended. I wrote the last lines this morning. . . . March 6th. A lovely spring morning. I began to revise and correct " Evan- geline " for the press. Went carefully over the first canto. . . . 31st. Got from the printer the first pages of " Evangeline." . . . April 3rd. The first canto of " Evangeline " in proofs. Some of the lines need pound- ing ; nails are to be driven and clinched. On the whole, I am pretty well satisfied. Fields came out in the afternoon. I told him of the poem, and he wants to publish it. . . . 4th. Sumner and Felton came to tea, and we discussed " Evangeline." I think Sumner is rather afraid of it still ; and wants me to let it repose for a six-month 9th. Proof sheets of " Evangeline " all tattooed with Folsom's [his friend the chief proof reader at the Uni- versity Press] marks. How severe he is ! But so much the better. . . . May 26th. Corrected proof sheets of " Evangeline." October 2nd. Why does not Ticknor pub- lish " Evangeline " ? I am going to town to ask him that very question. And his answer was that he should do so without further delay. . . . 30th. " Evangeline " pub- lished. . . . November 8th. " Evangeline " goes on bravely. I have received greater and warmer commenda- tions than on any previous volume. The public takes more kindly to hexameters than I could have Imagined. Strange to relate, Longfellow never saw Grand-Pre. As was natural, certain errors occur in the poem, which only a study of the country could have avoided. I have noted a few discrepancies, topographical and historical. The poem is, in the main, correct. The people were made to suffer all the horrors described. Families and friends were separated. GRAND-PrA. 159 "This Is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and hemlocks." In the year 1710 a terrible forest fire swept over the country from Gaspereau to the Piziquid. It is probable that the extensive forests covering the mountains to the east were also destroyed at the same time. The great quantity of wood which had to be. brought to supply the Acadians must have come from a long distance — as some writers say, from the east side of the Avon. Only a small patch at the head of that river remained. When the English settlers came in 1760 they passed laws for the protection of the wood then standing. For many years the new growth was small, and consisted of spruce, fir, white birch, poplar and white pine. It is said that in the previous year a cyclone had laid prostrate the forest from Annapolis to East Hants. Over a great part of this territory the soil is thin on the mountain, and once the fire started in the next year nothing could stop the fearful march of the flames till it reached the Avon. " Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand-Prg." Of late years much has been learned of the Aca- dians and of their villages. Grand-Pr6 proper was a very small village. "Vast meadows stretched to the eastward." The marshes lie chiefly to the north, "but at stated seasons the flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows." Gates are not opened to let in the salt water. The 160 GRAND-PRt. land is remarkably fertile, and has been producing crops for many years without renewing. Some of the land is very valuable as hay land, and is rated as high as four hundred dollars per acre. After the deportation, in the year 1769, before the Acadian lands were again occupied, the dykes were broken and the meadows flooded. Again, in 1838, the extremely high tide broke over the dykes and flooded many thousand acres of land. The famous Saxby tide of 1869 overtopped the highest dykes by some inches, and in many places the protecting walls were broken down and much damage was done by the salt water. On the Wickwire dyke, near Wolfville, it was several years before the dykes were built, and a year or so before the productive power of the soil was restored. Salt water has the effect of killing the ordinary vegetation of the meadows, under certain conditions. " West and south were the fields . . . Spread afar and unfenced o'er the plain." There is no plain to the south of Grand-Pre, for the country is hilly, with gentle slopes till it falls away to the Gaspereau valley. " Benedict Belief on talne, the wealthiest farmer of Grand- Pt6." Oliver Bellefontaine, living in the village of Gas- pereau, is the only one of the name to be found in Winslow's list. There was no priest in Minas in the autumn of 1755, he having been removed during the summer. " Gentle Evangeline lived." w < < W H Cm 'J1 < GRAND- PRE. 161 The only Bellefontaine had no daughter, according to the list above mentioned. Gabrielle Lajennesse was not a name known at Minas. Eene Le Blanc was the notary. "Anon from the belfry Softly the Angelus sounded." The troops had taken the church for a storehouse, and it was within the picket enclosure, and under strict guard. In the matter of time there is great discrepancy. No doubt the poet had not access to Winslow's journal at the time of writing the poem. " Then uprose the commander, and spake from the steps of the altar." He was seated at a table in the open space of the building, and from there he read the proclamation. " Lo ! the door of the chancel opened, and Father Fellcian entered." This scene could not have been enacted, as there was no priest in the country. Nor was there a service afterwards. " Thus to the G'aspereau's mouth they hurried ; and there on the sea-beach Piled in confusion lay the household goods of the peasants." The men had been taken on board the transports, and were there some time before the rest of the people were ordered to embark. The sad scene on the beach and the subsequent etobarking, are crea- tions of the poet's fancy. U 162 GRAND-PR^. On the 4th of August, 1755, the cure ot Minas had been ordered to Halifax, and was detained there. On the 10th, Le Maire, priest of Canard River, was also a prisoner. There was now not a priest left to the French of the Annapolis valley. This was a severe punishment at all times; for their religion, and the officers of their religious worship they deemed their dearest possession. This move on the part of Lawrence left the way open for the use of the church and the priest's house by Winslow, when he came to Grand Pr6. It left them without the guides they placed every confidence in, and, on the other hand, it removed a possible obstacle to a complete trap set for the Acadians. CHAPTBK XIV. Geology of Minas— The Tides— Minerals of Minas— Geological Structure. Geology teaches us that at an early date following on the carboniferous or coal age, the Forth Mountain did not exist, and the waters of the ocean lay over the whole of the Annapolis Valley from the South Mountain eastward to the Cobequid hUls, and north to New Brunswick. The common action of rivers, tides, frost, rain and sun upon the carboniferous lime- stone, slate and saindstone, and other rocks which made up the surface of the earth and the beds of streams, rivers and seas formed immense deposits of mud and sediment which were laid down level under the water and became rock. Then occurred a warp- ing, or change' in this deposit, and what is known as the red sandstone was in many places exposed to view. Along the shores of Minas it can be seen, as well as on the shores of Cumberland and Annapolis basins. The action narrowed the Bay of Fundy to somewhat like its present limits. In many places can be traced the channels of long extinct rivers and v/aterways at a great altitude above sea-level. Following this change of feature came the great internal force that rent the earth, and poured forth masses of 'tfioiten niatter which spread over the sand- stone, and were piled up from iPive Islands in Cumber- 163 164 grand-prA. land to the western limit of Digby County. The North Mountain was thus formed, and at Blomidon can be seen the trap or volcanic rock overlying the red sandstone. To the geologist the study of this region is of unending interest. With the subsequent cooling of the trap rock, great seams and cracks appeared throughout the mass, which were eventually filled up with the chemical elements in crystalline forms, such as zeolites, amethyst, calcites, etc., found in more or less abundance along the extent of the mountains. Between Blomidon and Partridge Island, about five miles, is the great passage-way of the tides which rise and fall in filling and discharging the immense body of water that passes in and out twice in twenty-four hours. The continuity of the mountain of trap is broken here, unless it extends under the water. Digby Gap is another break in the mountain wall. Now the marsh building begins. The great streams where the broad marshes now lie were open seas at high tide; and at low tide great gaping basins and channels through which long rivers flowed from hun- dreds of valleys. Mountain rivers, swollen to torrents, carried down earthy matter fed to them by rains or torn from their own banks and channels; and all this rich sediment poured into the tidal waters was in great part at once checked in its onward move- ment, and fell to the bottom of the slower moving salt water. About the time of high tide the upland streams, losihg almost all motion, gave up their freights of marsh material, which, mixing with the ^ea elements, were laid down to become, in the course GRAND-PRt. 165 of centuries, the richest and most productive of land. Many broad valleys were filled up in this way, only a long, windiag, and comparatively narrow channel remaining for the escape of the mountain streams. Doubtless a certain proportion of this accumulation of marsh was supplied by the incoming tide, moving rapidly upward to the heads of its source, and there throwing down the fine particles of material held suspended while its movement was rapid. At certain periods the tides are higher than at others. At present only these higher tides cover the marshes that have not been dyked. The deposition of material is yet taking place; for the most part, probably, changing place. This is shown in many places by the comparative height, of the land inside and outside the dykes, there being a difference of several feet. The whole soil has a reddish color, due to the presence of iron. The character of the whole Minas region has been modified and marked by the wonderful Fundy tides. On the seaboard at Halifax the rise of the tide is about sLs feet, and there is but little variation over the whole of the coast. At the opening of the Bay of Pundy the height of the spring tide increases, and at Yarmouth it is sixteen feet. At Digby it is twenty-seven feet, and at Parrsboro it is forty-three feet. At the mouth of the Shubenacadie Eiver it occasionally attains the extraordinary elevation of seventy feet. " The Bore " is a wall or wave of advancing waters at the head of the iaeoming tide. The salt water at low tide leaves many of the rivers of Minas 166 GRAND-PRt. Basin with nothing but a narrow stream or channel of fresh water flowing through them. On either side level " flats " of sand are left bare of water. When the tide returns the empty river channel is filled in six hours, or about a foot of rise in seven minutes. On the Peticodiac Eiver the bore some- times attains the height of ten feet. The rush of water is often at the rate of eight miles an hour, and at some points nearer the sea the tide moves over ten miles an hour. The explanation of the tidal phenomenon lies in the ' fact that Atlantic tides moving up along the coast line of Cape Cod are met by the peninsula of Nova Scotia, and forced upward iuto the narrowing limits of the Bay of Fundy. This great volume of water is, so to speak, thrown into the Basin of Minas and up the rivers. This country has a variety of interesting features in mineralogy and in geological formation. Profes- sors, teachers and students visit here every year to study the geology of the country and to gather mineral specimens. This can be done with advantage and profit. All the localities are easily accessible. Hun- dreds of pounds of minerals are taken away every season. Amethyst is particularly sought after, both for cabinet specimens and for jewelry. A great variety of agate and jasper can be obtained. Acadialite (red chabazite), heulandite, natrolite, analcite, stilbite, apo- phylite, dog-tooth spar and the various forms of selenite, etc., are among the kinds of minerals that can be obtained here. Very beautiful combinations of these, sometimes associating five different kinds, GRAND-PRt. 167 are found. Sheaf stilbite of exceptional quality, and natrolite, from hair-like crystals to large prisms, are met with. Geodes, fossils, ripple marks, rainpoints, animal tracks, etc., are among the interesting things that can be obtaiaed. All this is not in the wilderness, but is in the most picturesque and interesting part of the region of Acadia. List of minerals found: Partridge Island: Analcite, apophylite, amethyst, agate apatite. Calclte, chabazite (acadialite), chalcedony, cat's-eye. Gypsum (selenite, satinspar). Heulandlte, hematite. Magnatlte pyrite. Stilbite. Jasper, cacholong, opal, semi-opal quartz. Blomidon : Analcite, agate, amethyst, apophylite. Calcite, dog-tooth spar, chalcedony, chabazite (acadialite). Gmelinite, gypsum. Fareolite hematite, heulandite. Magnatite, laumonite, malachite, mesollte. Native copper, natrolite. Stilbite, psilomelane. Quartz varieties. Cape D'Or: Obsidian, malachite, gold, copper. Parrsboro : Augite, amianthus, pyrite. In the geological structure of the peninsula of ISTova Scotia there is evidence of volcanic action, glacial movement and changes of level, and at the present time a gradual subsidence is being repeated. We 168 grand-prA. have evidence of the Pleistocene, Triassic, Carbonif- erous, Devonian, Silurian and Cambrian, and the granite boulders of azoic time. THE SILURIAN AEBAS. At Beech Hill, the ridges above Wolfville, Canaan, and up Angus Brook, afford excellent opportunity of studying what is as yet an imperfectly known forma- tion. They include (1) the Dictyonema Websteri slates of Beech Hill and Angus Brook, occurring in hardened and cleaved red and green and mottled slates; (2) the Astroerium venustenu beds of lime rock which are undoubtedly newer in , age, but also part of the Silurian system. CAEBONIFEROUS. There are two formations at least in the vicinity of Wolfville. The shales and limestones and associated fossiliferous measures of the Horton formation and the granite sandstones and conglomerates underlyiag the former. The designation Avon formation has been assigned to the lower of these carboniferous sediments to distinguish them in the field. TRIASSIC. The red rocks of Evangeline Beach, the red sand- stones and marls which overlap the silurian and car- boniferous un«)nformably, belong to the triassic system. This is probably the most northerly outcrop of the JSTewark system of New Jersey and other New England States. GRAND-PRE. 169 It is to be hoped that careful search will reveal reptilian and other remains. Long Island and Evan- geline Beach are made up for the most part of the triassic sandstone. PLEISTOCENE. The more recent underlying geological formation, including the "boulder clays" and "till" of the glacial period, followed by the marine clays and sands of later date, together with a careful study of the various phenomena characterizing these two import- ant periods in the later physiographic geologic history of the Basin of Minas, afEord excellent opportunity for study of a very attractive type. The most fossiliferous localities in the neighbor- hood of Wolfville are Angus and Trenholm Brooks, Gaspereau VaUey, Horton Shore, from Avonpbrt Sta- tion to Blue Beach; and if an enthusiastic student of marine fossils desires to examine one of the most fos- siliferous limestones of carboniferous age he has only to visit Miller's Lime Kiln and quarry and other out- crops of limestone near Windsor. 170 GRAND-PRE. GUIDE LEAF. (See Mop.) At Grand-Pre. — The French willows, opposite the railway station. In a line from the east, the burying- ground of the Acadians, the French well, the priest's house, the site of the church, and a French cellar. The four places mentioned are in a line in the order named from the east, between the willows and the railway station. The Acadian road to the village of Grand-Pre, running from the willows up the hill on the south, marked by willows. The Gfand-Pre, the great meadow, taken from the sea. The Landing Place, where the Acadians embarked, one and a half miles "east, on the Gaspereau Kiver. Site of ' the old Fort, Vieux Lqgis, near the same place. The Old Covenanter Church, begun in 1804, com- pleted in 1818, one-quarter mile south of the station. Evangeline Beach, Long Island, with view of the Basin, and Cape Blomidon. Col. Noble's grave, on Mr. James Leard's property, near first corner south of the railroad. Soldiers' grave near by in the road. The Basin of Minos. — The Tides. Average height forty-five feet. In places seventy feet. " Tide in " and " tide out " from the same point. GRAND-PRt. 171 The " Tidal Bore," the advance wave of the coming tide, at times ten feet high on the Peticodiac. 1 Cape Blomidon, where amethyst and zeolites are found. The dykes and an aboiteau, with sluice, to let out the water. The Gaspereau Valley. — Acadian cellars and apple trees. The LooTc-Off. — From which can be seen four coun- ties. This drive will take you through a country of orchards and marshes. A very beautiful drive, and historically interesting as well, through the Canard of the Aeadians. French dykes seen on the drive. Wolfville. — Named after the De Wolfs, one of the old families. Acadia University, and affiliated institutions. The University Museum. Herbin's collection of Acadian and Indian relics. Vessels left high and dry by the tide at the wharves. A harbor without water. The view from the hill south of "Wolfville, showing the Basin of Minas and Cape Blomidon. GKAND^PPvE MEMORIAL EDITION EVANGELINE A Tale of Acadie By Henry Wadsworth Longfellow With Introduction by John Frederic Herbin Wolfville, Nova Scotia Author of the Grand Pre' Series of Publications, " The History of Grand-Prc," " The Marshlands," "The Heir to Grand'Pre " TORONTO WILLIAM BRIGGS 1908 r Copyright Canada, 1908, By J. F. Herbin. AN ACADIAN AT GRAND-PRe! To Longfellow. Dear Poet, while these fields rejoice. And singing tides, regretting not the years. Seem yet to hear thy tender voice, I feel to-day the heart-throb and the tears. Warm is thy look across the land Where never came thy living feet to stand. A nation sorrows in thy song. My people outcast, given unto woe. Thy voice called heaven to the wrong Immortal word of pity to iestow. How far thy strong, sweet voice shall fare. Till earth shall know the story everywhere. Away with tears! Let grief be done! Our living willows everywhere now wave The hope that smiles; and earth alone Knows where they nameless slumber in the grave. The past is dead with all its shame; Their scions cherish dear thy deathless fame. They weep not now, nor ever pray, No longer plead of strangers to befriend; So hills are joyful, and the day Shall never sadden seasons without end. Their dykelands knoiv them ever gone. Burnt roof and hearth long open to the sun. AK ACADIAN AT GEAND-PEE. Oh Poet, thy soul's song I bring To offer to these fields for all my race, Not alien though alone I sing, And lift to earth and heaven a joyous face. Thy tenderness was sweet with halm; Despite the agony these fields are calm. Thou earnest not in life to see The hallotved places of Acadian days. Thine own Grand-Pre, now glad for thee And for the memory of her face always, Evangeline, who even now Entwines the garland on thy tender brow. INTRODUCTION. When Longfellow was forty years of age Evangeline was published. It was begun in November, 1845, and finished February, 1874. This tale in verse was his first departure from the lyric and ballad form of poetry. Its success was immediate, and Evangeline is to-day probably the most widely-known poem in the English language. Interest in Grand-Pre has grown to so great an extent that last year fourteen acres of land associated with the early Acadian history and the story of Evangeline were pur- chased to be made into a Memorial Park. This field is beautifully situated at the edge of the diked meadows taken from the sea by the Acadians. Here, by a most happy eombiuation of circumstances, have been preserved historic landmarks of the exiled people for 150 years. Here is their burying-ground, used more than eighty years. This year part of the original foundation of the Acadian church of St. Charles was unearthed. The greater part of this stone had been removed and the site had been plowed over probably for a century and a half. Near by is a well from which a collection of Acadian implements^ of iron was taken about twenty years ago. A depression in the ground partly filled with field stone was cleaned out last year, exposing the foundation of the house and chimney of what had been the priest's home. A row of French willows hangs over the road that runs along the edge of the upland near the diked meadows, called the "Shore Eoad." Another road crosses the field from the ancient village of Grand-Pre between the site of the church and the priest's house. This led to their meadows. This famous ground will be known henceforth as the Grand-Pre Memorial Park, and as funds are available, the .6 INTEODUCTION". various objects of historical interest will be protected and suitably marked. A place has been selected for a ,Long- fellow monument. . i Evangeline was not the first literary production inspired by the sad story of the deportation of the Acadians. Fol- lowing Haliburton's " History of Nova Scotia," Mrs. C. E. Williams published, in 1841, the second edition of a book entitled "The Acadian Exile, a Tale of the Neutral French." Assuming the date of the first edition to have been at least four years previous, it appeared almost ten years before Evangeline was published. Under date of October 24, 1838, Hawthorne wrote in his "American Note Book": "H. L. C, (Father Conner) heard from a French-Canadian a story of a young couple in Acadia. On their marriage day all the men of the Province were summoned to assemble in the church to hear a proclamation. When assembled they were all seized and shipped off to be distributed through New England, among them the new bridegroom. His bride set off in search of him, wandered about New England all her life- time, and when she was old she found her bridegroom on his death-bed. The shock was so great that it killed her likewise." It is interesting to note that Longfellow requested a friend in Boston to procure for him Mrs. Williams' tale, in which one of the characters is named Gabrielle. The poet wrote in his diary : " Set about Gabrielle, my idyl, etc. . . shall it be ' Gabrielle ' or ' Celestine ' or ' Evangeline ?' " The last name, being more euphonious, was decided upon. Evangeline has become famous, while Mrs. Williams' book is well-nigh forgotten. EVANGELINE. prelu&e. This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilig'ht, Stand like Druids of old, with voices sad and prophetic, Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms. Loud from its \^^cW caverns, the deep-voiced neighbouring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. This is the forest primeval ; but where are the hearts that beneath it Leaped like the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman? Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadian farmers, — Men whose lives glided on like rivers that water the wood- lands, 10 Darkened by shadows of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven ? Waste are those pleasant farms, and the farmers for ever departed ! Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them, and whirl 'them aloft, and sprinkle them far o'er the ocean. !N"aught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand-Pre. " 8 EVANGELINE. Ye who believe in affection that hopes, and endures, and is patient, Ye who believe in the beauty and strength of woman's devotion, List to the mournful tradition still sung by the pines of the forest; List to a Tale of Love in Acadie, home of the happy. part tbe ificst. ^- • In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, '^° Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand -Pre Lay in the fruitful v.alley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward, Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labour incessant. Shut out the turbulent tides; but at stated seasons the flood-gates ^^ Opened and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and cornfields Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain; and away to the northward Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the moun- tains Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic s" Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian vil- ^ lage. Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of hemlock. Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries. EVANGELINE. 9 Thatched were the roofs, with dormer-windows ; and gables projecting -^^ Over the basement below protected and shaded the doorway. There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys. Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles Scarlet and blue and green, with distaiis spinning the golden *" Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens. Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, and the children Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. Reverend walked he among them ; and up rose matrons and maidens. " ^* Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate wel- come. Then came the labourers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank Down to his rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry Softly the Angelus sounded, and over the roofs of the village Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense as- cending, *" Eose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — Dwelt in the love of God and of man. Alike were they free from Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows; *^ But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners ; There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance. 10 EVANGELINE. Somewhat apart from the village, and nearer the Basin of Minas, , Benedict Belief ontaine, the wealthiest farmer of Grand Pre, Dwelt oji his goodly acres; and with_him, directing his household, "^ Gentle Evangeline lived, his child, and the pride of the village. Stal worth and stately in form was the man of seventy winters ; Hearty and hale was he, an oak that is covered with snow-flakes ; White as the snow were his locks, and his cheeks as brown as the oak-leaves. Fair was she to behold, that maiden of seventeen sum- ^ mers; ^^ Black were her eyes as the berry that grows on the thorn by the wayside. Black, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses! Sweet was her breath as the breath of kine that feed in the meadows. When in the harvest heat she bore to the reapers at noon- tide Flagons of home-brewed ale, ah! fair in sooth was the maiden. ''" Fairer was she when, on Sunday mom, while the bell from its turret Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the priest with his hyssop Sprinkles the congregation, and scatters blessings upon them, Down the long street she passed, with her chaplet of beads and her missal. Wearing her Norman cap and her kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings ''^ Brought in the olden times from France, and since, as an heirloom. Handed down from mother to child, through long genera- tions. But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — Shone on her face and encircled her form, when, after confession, EVANGELINE. ^ 11 Homeward serenely she walked with God's benediction upon her. **" When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exqui- site music. Firmly builded with rafters of oak, the house of the farmer Stood on the side of a hill commanding the sea; and a shady Sycamore grew by the door, with a woodbine wreathing around it. Eudely carved was the porch, with seats beneath; and a footpath »^ Led through an orchard wide, and disappeared in the meadow. Under the sycamore-tree were hives overhung by a pent- house. Such as the traveller sees in regions remote by the road- side. Built o'er a box for the poor, or the blessed image of Mary. Farther down, on the slope of the hill, was the well with its moss-grown ^° Bucket, fastened with iron, and near it a trough for the horses. Shielding the house from storms, on the north, were the barns and the farm-yard; There stood the broad-wheeled wains and the antique ploughs and the harrows ; There were the folds for the sheep ; and there, in his feath- ered seraglio. Strutted the lordly turkey, and crowed the cock, with the selfsame ®^ Voice that in ages of old had startled the penitent Peter. Bursting with hay were the barns, themselves a village. In each one Par o'er the gable projected a roof of thatch; and a staircase, Under the sheltering eaves, led up to the odorous corn- loft. There too the dove-cot stood, with its meek and innocent inmates ^°'' 12 EVANGELINE. Murmuring ever of love; while above in the variant breezes ■Numberless noisy weathercocks rattled and sang of mu- tation. Thus, at peace with God and the world, the farmer of Grand-Pre Lived on his sunny farm, and Evangeline governed 1:13 household. Many a youth, as he knelt in the church and opened hia missal, ^"^ Fixed his eyes upon her as the saint of his deepest de- votion; Happy was he who might touch her hand or the hem of her garment ! Many a suitor came to her door, by the darkness be- friended. And as he knocked and waited to hear the sound of her footsteps. Knew not which beat the louder, his heart or the knocker of iron; ^^" Or, at the joyous feast of the Patron Saint of the village. Bolder grew, and pressed her hand in the dance as he whispered Hurried words of love, that seemed a part of the music. But among all who came young Gabriel only was welcome ; Gabriel Lajeunegse, the son of Basil the blacksmith, ^^^ Who was a mighty man in the village, and honoured of all men; For since the birth of time, throughout all ages and nations, Has the craft of the smith been held in repute by the people. Basil was Benedict's friend. Their children from earliest childhood Grew up together as brother and sister; and Father , Felician, i^" Priest and pedagogue both in the village, had taught them their letters Out of the selfsame book, with the hymns of the church and the plain-song. But when the hymn was sung, and the daily lesson com- pleted. EVANGELINE. 13 Swiftly they hurried away to the forge of Basil the black- smith. There at the door they stood, with wondering eyes to be- hold him liiB Take in his leathern lap the hoof of the horse as a play- thing, Nailing the shoe in its place; while near him the tire of the cart-wheel Lay like a iiery snake, coiled round in a circle of cinders. Oft on autumnal eves, when without in the gathering darkness Bursting with light seemed the smithy, through every cranny and crevice, i^" Warm by the forge within they watched the labouring bellows. And as its panting ceased, and the sparks expired in the ashes. Merrily laughed, and said they were nuns going into the chapel. Oft on sledges in winter, as swift as the swoop of the eagle, Down the hillside bounding, they glided away o'er the meadow. ^-^^ Oft in the barns they climbed to the populous nests on the rafters, Seeking with eager eyes that wondrous stone, which the swallow Brings from the shore of the sea to restore the sight of its fledglings; Lucky was he who found that stone in the nest of the swallow ! Thus passed a few swift years, and they no longer were children. _ i*" He was a valiant youth, and his face, like the face of the morning, Gladdened the earth with its light, and ripened thought into action. She was a woman now, with the heart and hopes of a woman. " Sunshine of Saint Eulalie " was she called ; for that was the sunshine Which, as the farmers believed, would load their orchards with apples; ^*^ 14 EVANGELINE. She too would bring to her husband's house delight and abundance, Filling it full of love and the ruddy faces of children. II. Now had the season returned, when the nights grow colder and longer. And the retreating sun the sign of the Scorpion enters. Birds of passage sailed through the leaden air, from the ice-bound, ^^'^ Desolate northern bays to the shores of tropical islands. Harvests were gathered in; and wild with the winds of September Wrestled the trees of the forest, as Jacob of old with the angel. All the signs foretold a winter long and inclement. Bees, with prophetic instinct of want, had hoarded their honey ■"■^^ Till the hives overflowed ; and the Indian hunters asserted Cold would the winter be, for thick was the fur of the foxes. Such was the advent of autumn. Then followed that beautiful season, Called by the pious Acadian peasants the Summer of All- Saints ! Filled was the air with a dreamy and magical light; and the landscape ^'''' Lay as if new-created in all the freshness of childhood. Peace seemed to reign upon earth, and the restless heart of the ocean Was for a moment consoled. All sounds were in harmony blended. Voices of children at play, the crowing of cocks in the • farm-yards. Whir of wings in the drowsy air, and the cooing of pigeons, ^^^ All were subdued and low as the murmurs of love, and the gjreat snn Looked with the eye of love through the golden vapours around him; EVANGELIKB. 15 While arrayed in its robes of russet and scarlet and yellow, Bright with the sheen of the dew, each glittering tree of the forest Plashed like the plane-tree the Persian adorned with man- tles and jewels. 170 ISTow recommenced the reign of rest and affection and stillness. Day with its burden and heat had departed, and twilight descending Brought back the evening star to the sky, and the herds to the homestead. Pamng the ground they came, and resting their necks on each other. And with their nostrils distended inhaling the freshness of evening. i''^ Foremost, bearing the bell, Evangeline's beautiful heifer. Proud of her snow-white hide, and the ribbon that waved from her collar. Quietly paced and slow, as if conscious of human affection. Then came the shepherd back with his bleating flocks from the seaside. Where 'was their favourite pasture. Behind them followed the watch-dog, ^'"' Patient, full of importance, and grand in the pride of his instinct, Walking from side to side with a lordly air, and superbly Waving his bushy tail, and urging forward the stragglers ; Regent of flocks was he when the shepherd slept; their protector, When from the forest at night, through the starry silence, the wolves howled. ^^^ Late, with the rising moon, returned the wains from the marshes. Laden with briny hay, that filled the air with its odour. Cheerily neighed the steeds with dew on their manes and their fetlocks, While aloft on their shoulders the wooden and ponderous saddles. Painted with brilliant dyes, and adorned with tassels of crimson, ^^'^ 16 EVANGELINE. Nodded in bright array, like hollyhocks heavy with blos- soms. Patiently stood the cows meanwhile, and yielded their udders Unto the milkmaid's hand; whilst loud and in regular cadence Into the sounding pails the foaming streamlets descended. Lowing of cattle and pteals of laughter were heard in the farm-yard, ^^^ Echoed back by the barns. Anon they sank into stillness; Heavily closed, with a jarring sound, the valves of the barn-doors, Eattled the wooden bars, and all for a season was silent. In-doors, warm by the wide-mouthed fireplace, idly the farmer Sat in his elbow-chair, and watched how the flames and the smoke- wreaths ^'"' Struggled together like foes in a burning city. Behind him, Nodding and mocking along the wall with gestures fan- tastic. Darted Jtiis own huge shadow, and vanished away into darkness. Paces, clumsily carved in oak, on the back of his arm-chair Laughed in the flickering light, and the pewter plates on the dresser ' '^^^ Caught and reflected the flame, as shields of armies the sunshine, Pragments of song the old man sang, and carols of Christ- mas, Such as at home, in the olden time, his fathers before him Sang in their Norman orchards and bright Burgundian vineyards. Close at her father's side was the gentle Evangeline seated, ^lo Spinning flax for the loom that stood in the corner behind her. Silent awhile were its treadles, at rest was its diligent shuttle. While the monotonous drone of the wheel, like the drone of a bagpipe, EVANGELINE. 17 Followed the old man's song, and united the fragments together. As in a church, when the chant of the choir at intervals ceases, '^^^ Footfalls are heard in the aisles, or words of the priest at the altar, So, in each pause of the song, with measured motion the clock clicked. Thus as they sat, there were footsteps heard, and, sud- denly lifted. Sounded the wooden latch, and the door swung back on its hinges. Benedict knew by the hob-nailed shoes it was Basil the blacksmith, - ^^o And by her beating heart Evangeline knew who was with him. " Welcome I" the farmer exclaimed, as their footsteps paused on the threshold, " Welcome, Basil, my friend ! Come, take thy place on the settle Close by the chimney-side, which is always empty without thee ; Take from the shelf overhead thy pipe and the box of tobacco ; '■^'^^ Never so much thyself art thou as when, through the curling Smoke of the pipe or the forge, thy friendly and jovial face gleams Bound and red as the harvest moon through the mist of the marshes." , Then, with a smile of content, thus answered Basil the blacksmith, Taking with easy air the accustomed seat by the fire- side:— -=*» "Benedict Belief ontaine, thou hast ever thy Jest and thy ballad ! Ever in cheerfullest mood art thou, when others are filled with Gloomy forebodings of ill, and see only ruin before them. Happy art thou, as if every day thou hadst picked up a horseshoe." 18 EVANGELINE. Pausing a moment, to take the pipe that Evangeline brought him, " '^'^^ And with a coal from the embers had lighted, he slowly continued : — " Pour days now are passed since the English ships at their anchors Eide in the Gaspereau's mouth, with their cannon pointed against us. What their design may be is unknown; but all are com- manded On the morrow to meet in the church, where his Majesty's mandate ^*" Will be proclaimed as law in the land. Alas ! in the mean- time Many surmises of evil alarm the hearts of the people." Then made answer the farmer : — " Perhaps some friendlier purpose Brings these ships to our shores. Perhaps the harvests in England By untimely rains or untimelier heat have been blighted, _ _ 245 And from our bursting bams they would feed their cattle and children." " Not so thinketh the folk in the village," said warmly the blacksmith, Shaking his head as in doubt; then, heaving a sigh, he continued : — " Louisburg is not forgotten, nor Beau Sejour, nor Port Eoyal. Many already have fled to the forest, and lurk on its out- skirts, ^^^ Waiting with anxious hearts the dubious fate of to- morrow. Arms have been taken from us, and warlike weapons of all kinds ; Nothing is left but the blacksmith's sledge and the scythe of the mower." Then vnth a pleasant smile made answer the jovial farmer : — " Safer are we unarmed, in the midst of our flocks and our cornfields, ^^* Safer within these peaceful dikes besieged by the ocean, EVANGELINE. 19 Than our fathers in forts, besieged by the enemy's cannon. Fear no evil, my friend, and to-night may no shadow of sorrow Fall on this house and hearth; for this is the night of the contract. Built are the house and the barn. The merry lads of the village ^iso Strongly have built them and well ; and, breaking the glebe round about them, ' Filled the barn with hay, and the house with food for a twelvemonth. Eene Leblanc will be here anon, with his papers and ink- horn. Shall we not then be glad, and rejoice in the joy of our children ?" As apart by the window she stood, with her hand in her lover's, -Bs Blushing Evangeline heard the words that her father had spoken. And as they died on his lips, the worthy notary entered. III. Bent like a labouring oar, that toils in the surf of the ocean, ' Bent, but not broken, by age was the form of the notary public ; Shocks of yellow hair, like the silken floss of the maize, hung ' ^'"' Over his shoulders; his forehead was high; and glasses with horn bows Sat astride on his nose, with a look of wisdom supernal. Father of twenty children was he, and more than a hun- dred Children's children rode on his knee, and heard his great watch tick. Pour long years in the times of the war had he languished a captive, ^'"' Suffering much in an old French fort as the friend of the English. Now, though warier grown, without all guile or suspicion, 20 EVANGELINE. Ripe in wisdom was he, but patient, and simple, and child- like. He was beloved by all, and most of all by the children ; For he told them tales of the Lonp-garou in the forest, '^^^ And of the goblin that came in the night to water the horses, And of the white Letiche, the ghost of a child who un- christened Died, and was doomed to haunt unseen the chambers of children ; And how on Christmas eve the oxen talked in the stable. And how the fever was cured by a spider shut up in a nutshell, -^'^ And of the marvellous, powers of four-leaved clover and horseshoes, With whatsoever else was writ in the lore of the village. Then up rose from his seat by the fireside Basil the black- smith. Knocked from his pipe the ashes, and slowly extending his right hand, " Father Leblanc," he exclaimed, " thou hast heard the talk in the village, ^'"' And, perchance, canst tell us some news of these ships and their errand." Then with modest demeanour made answer the notary public, — " Gossip enough have I heard, in sooth, yet am never the wiser ; And what their errand may be I know no better than others. Yet am I not of those who imagine some evil intention ^"^ Brings them here, for we are at peace; and why then mo- lest us?" " God's name !" shouted the hasty and somewhat irascible blacksmith ; " Must we in all things look for the how, and the why, and the wherefore? Daily injustice is done, and might is the right of the strongest I" But, without heeding his warmth, continued the notary public, — 30'o " Man is unjust, but God is just ; and finally justice EVANGELINE. 21 Triumphs; and well I remember a story, that often con- soled me, When as a captive I lay in the old French fort at Port Eoyal." This was the old man's favourite tale, and he loved to re- peat it When his neighbours complained that any injustice was done them. sos " Once in an ancient city, whose name I no longer re- member, Eaised aloft on a column a brazen statue of Justice Stood in the public square, upholding the scales in its left hand. And in its right a sword, as an emblem that justice pre- sided Over the laws of the land, and the hearts and homes of the people. ''10 Even the birds had built their nests in the scales of the balance, Having no fear of the sword that flashed in the sunshine above them. But in the course of time the laws of the land were cor- rupted ; Might took the place of right, and the weak were op- pressed, and the mighty Euled with an iron rod. Then it chanced in a nobleman's palace '^^^ That a necklace of pearls was lost, and ere long a suspicion Fell on an orphan girl who lived as maid in the household. She,, after form of trial condemned to die on the scaffold, Patiently met her doom at the foot of the statue of Justice. As to her Father in heaven her innocent spirit as- cended, =*20 Lo ! o'er the city a tempest rose ; and the bolts of the thunder Smote the statue of bronze, and hurled in wrath from its left hand Down on the pavement below the clattering scales of the balance, And in the hollow thereof was found the nest of a magpie. Into whose clay-built walls the necklace of pearls was in- woven." ^^^ 22 EVANGELINE. Silenced, but not convinced, when the story was ended, the blacksmith Stood like a man who fain would speak, but findeth no language ; All his thoughts were congealed into lines on his face, as the vapours Freeze in fantastic shapes on the window-panes in the win- ter. Then Evangeline lighted the brazen lamp on the table, ^^° Filled, till it overflowed, the pewter tankard with home- brewed Nut-brown ale, that was famed for its strength in the vil- lage of Grand-Pre; While from his pocket the notary drew his papers and ink- horn. Wrote with a steady hand the date and the age of the parties, Naming the dower of the bride in flocks of sheep and in cattle. ^^^ Orderly all things proceeded, and duly and well were com- pleted. And the great seal of the law was set like a sun on the margin. Then from his leathern pouch the farmer threw on the table Three times the old man's fee in solid pieces of silver; And the notary rising, and blessing the bride and bride- groom, ''** Lifted aloft the tankard of ale and drank to their welfare. Wiping the foam from his lip, he solemnly bowed and de- parted, While in silence the others sat and mused by the fireside. Till Evangeline brought the draught-board out of its corner. Soon was the game begun. In friendly contention the old men '^*^ Laughed at each lucky hit, or unsuccessful manoeuvre. Laughed when a man was crowned, or a breach was made in the king-row. Meanwhile apart, in the twilight gloom of a window's em- brasure, Sat the lovers and whispered together, beholding the moon rise EVANGELINE. 33 Over the pallid sea and the silvery mist of the mead- ows, aso Silently one by one, in the iniinite meadows of heaven, Blossomed the lovely stars, the forget-me-nots of the angels. Thus was the evening passed. Anon the bell from the belfry Eang out the hour of nine, the village curfew, and straight- way Eose the guests and departed; and silence reigned in the household. ''^5 Many a farewell word and sweet good-night on the door- step Lingered long in Evangeline's hearty and filled it with gladness. Carefully then were covered the embers that glowed on the hearth-stone. And on the oaken stairs resounded the tread of the farmer. Soon with a soundless step the foot of Evangeline fol- lowed. ^'"* Up the staircase moved a luminous space in the darkness, Lighted less by the lamp than the shining face of the maiden. Silent she passed through the hall, and entered the door of her chamber. Simple that chamber was, with its curtains of white, and its, clothes-press Ample and hiffh, on whose spacious shelves were carefully folded '"^^ Linen and woollen stuffs, by the hand of Evangeline woven. This was the precious dower she would bring to, her hus- band in marriage. Better than flocks and herds, being proofs of her skill as a housewife. ^ Soon she extinguished her lamp, for the mellow and radi- ant moonlight Streamed through' the windows, and lighted the room, till the heart of the maiden '*'''' Swelled and obeyed its power, like the tremulous tides of the ocean. 24 EVANGELINE. Ah! she wa» fair, exceeding fair to behold, as she stood with Naked snow-white feet on the gleaming floor of her cham- ber! Little she dreamed that below, among the trees of the orchard. Waited her lover and watched for the gleam of her lamp and her shadow. '^"'^ Yet were her thoughts of him, and at times a feeling of s^ness Passed o'er her sonl, as the sailing shade of clouds in the moonlight Flitted across the floor and darkened the room for a mo- ment. And, as she gazed from the window, she saw serenely the moon pass Forth from the folds of a cloud, and one star follow her footsteps, ^'*<' As out of Abraham's tent young Ishmael wandered with Hagar. IV. Pleasantly rose next morn the sun on the village of Grand-Pre. Pleasantly gleamed in the soft, sweet air the Basin of Minas, Where the ships, with their wavering shadows, were riding at anchor. Life had long been astir in the village, and clamorous labour '^^^ Knocked with its hundred hands at the golden gates of the morning. Now from the country around, from the farms and neigh- bouring hamlets, Came in their holiday dresses the blithe Acadian peasants. Many a glad good-morrow and jocund laugh from the young folk Made the bright air brighter, as up from the numerous meadows, ''so EVANGELINE. 25 Where no path could be seen but the track of wheels in the greensward, Group after group appeared, and joined, or passed on the highway. Long ere noon, in the village all sounds of labour were silenced. Thronged were the streets with people; and noisy groups at the house-doors Sat in the cheerful sun, and rejoiced and gossiped to- f ether. 395 ouse was an inn, where all were welcomed and feasted ; For with this simple people, who lived like brothers to- gether. All things were held in common, and what one had was another's. Yet under Benedict's roof hospitality seemed more abun- dant : For Evangeline stood among the guests of her father ; *"" Bright was her face with smiles, and words of welcome and gladness Fell from her beautiful lips, and blessed the cup as she gave it. Under the open sky, in the odorous air of the orchard, Stript of its golden fruit, was spread the feast of betrothal. There in the shade of the porch were the priest and the notary seated; *"^ There good Benedict sat, and sturdy Basil the blacksmith. Not far withdrawn from these, by "the cider-press and the beehives, Michael the fiddler was placed, with the gayest of hearts and of waistcoats. Shadow and light from the leaves alternately played on his snow-white Hair, aart tbe Secon^. I. Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand- Pre, When on the falling tide the freighted vessels departed, Bearing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile. Exile without an end, and without an example in story. Par asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadians landed; •■"* Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Banks of Newfoundland. Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered from city to city. From the cold lakes of the North to sultry Southern savannas, — From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of Waters «''^ Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean. Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of thp mammoth. 38 EVANGELINE. Friends they sought and homes; and many, despairing, heart-broken, Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend nor a fireside. Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churchyards. ^^'^ Long among them was seen a maiden who waited and wan- dered. Lowly and meek in spirit and patiently suffering all things. Fair was she and young ; but, alas ! before her extended. Dreary and vast and silent, the desert of life, with its pathway Marked by the graves of those who had sorrowed and suf- fered before her, '''^^ Passions long extinguished, and hopes long dead and abandoned. As the emigrant's way o'er the Western desert is marked by Camp-fires long consumed, and bones that bleach in the sunshine. Something there was in her life incomplete, imperfect, unfinished ; As if a morning of June, with all its music and sun- shine, ««o Suddenly paused in the sky, and, fading, slowly descended Into the east again, from whence it late had arisen. Sometimes she lingered in towns, till, urged by the fever within her, Urged by a restless longing, the hunger and thirst of the spirit, She would commence again her endless search and en- deavour; •"** Sometimes in churchyards strayed, and gazed on the crosses and tombstones, Sat by some nameless grave, and thought that perhaps in its bosom He was already at rest, and she longed to slumber beside him. Sometimes a rumour, a hearsay, an inarticulate whisper. Came with its airy hand to point and beckon her for- ward. _ 7»" Sometimes she spake with those who had seen her beloved and known him. EVANGELINE. 39 But it was long ago, in some far-ofE place or forgotten. " Gabriel Lajeunesse!" they said; " Oh, 5fes! we have seen him. He was with Basil the blacksmith, and both have gone to the prairies; Coiireurs-des-bois are they, and famous hunters and trap- pers." 1U5 " Gabriel Lajeunesse !" said others ; " Oh, yes ! we have seen him. He is a voyageur in the lowlands of Louisiana." Then would they say, "Dear child! why dream and wait for him longer? Are there not other youths as fair as Gabriel? others Who have hearts as tender and true, and spirits as loyal? 710 Here is Baptiste Leblanc, the notary's son, who has loved thee ^fany a tedious year; come, give him thy hand and be happy ! Thou art too fair to be left to braid St. Catherine's tresses." Then would Evangeline answer, serenely but sadly, "I cannot ! Vrhither my heart has gone, there follows my hand, and not elsewhere. ''^^ For when the heart goes before, like a lamp, and illumines the pathway. Many things are made clear, that else lie hidden in dark- ness." Thereupon the priest, her friend and father confessor. Said, with a smile, " daughter ! thy God thus speaketh within thee ! Talk not of wasted affection, affection never was wasted; ■'-" If it enrich not the heart of another, its waters, returning Back to their springs, like the rain, shall fill them full of refreshment ; That which the fountain sends forth returns again to the fountain. Patience ; accomplisli thy labour ; accomplish thy work of affection ! Sorrow and silence are strong and patient endurance is godlike. ''^^ 40 EVANGELINE. Therefore accomplish thy labour of love, till the heart is made godlike, Purified, strengthened, perfected, and rendered more worthy of heaven ! ' Cheered by the good man's words, Evangeline laboured and waited. StUl in her heart she heard the funeral dirge of the ocean, But with its sound there was mingled a voice that whis-' pered, " Despair not !" '''^^ Thus did that poor soul wander in want and cheerless dis- comfort. Bleeding, barefooted, over the shards and thorns of ex- istence. Let me essay, Muse! to follow the wanderer's foot- steps ; — Not through each devious path, each changeful year • of existence ; But as a traveller follows a streamlet's course through the valley: ''^^ Far from its margin at times, and seeing the gleam of its water Here and there, in some open space, and at intervals only ; Then drawing nearer its banks, through sylvan glooms that conceal it. Though he behold it not, he can hear its continuous murmur ; Happy, at length, if he find a spot where it reaches an outlet. ■'" II. It was the month of May. Ear down the Beautiful Eiver, Past the Ohio shore and past the mouth of the Wabash, Into the golden stream of the broad and swift Mississippi, Floated a cumbrous boat, that was rowed by Acadian boatmen, It was a band of exiles; a raft, as it were, from the ship- wrecked ''^^ Nation, scattered along the coast, now floating together, Bound by the bonds of a common belief and a common misfortune ; EVANGELINE. 41 Men and women and children, who^ gnided by hope or by hearsay, Sought for their kith and their kin among the few-acred farmers On the Acadian coast, and the prairies of fair Ope- lousas. '50 With them Evangeline went, and her guide, the Father Pelician. Onward o'er sunken sands, through a wilderness sombre with forests, Day after day they glided adown the turbulent river ; Night after night, by their blazing fires, encamped on its borders. Now through rushing chutes, among green islands, where plumelike ''^^ Cotton-trees nodded their shadovirjr crests, they swept with the current. Then emerged into broad lagoons, where silvery sand-bars Lay in the stream, and along the wimpling waves of their margin. Shining with snow-white plumes, large flocks of pelicans waded. Level the landscape greV, and along the shores of the river, ■"*" Shaded by china-trees in the midst of luxuriant gardens, Stood the houses of planters, with negro cabins and dove- cots. They were approaching the region where reigns perpetual summer. Where through the Golden Coast, and groves of orange and citron. Sweeps with maiestic curve the river away to the east- ward. ^«^ They, too, swerved from their course; and, entering the Bayou of Plaquemine, Soon were lost in a maze of sluggish and devious waters, ^Vhich, like a network of steel, extended in every direction. Over their heads the towering; and tenebrous boughs of the cypress Met in a dusky arch, and trailing mosses in mid-air '^'"> Waved like banners that hang on the walls of ancient cathedrals. 42 EVANGELINE. Deathlike the silence seemed, and unbroken, save by the herons Home to their roosts in the cedar-trees returning at sunset. Or by the owl, as he greeted the moon with demoniac laughter. Lovely the moonlight was as it glanced and gleamed on the water, '''^ Gleamed on the columns of cypress and cedar sustaining the arches, Down through whose broken vaults it fell as through chinks in a ruin. Dreamlike, and indistinct, and strange were all things around them; And o'er their spirits there came a feeling of wonder and Strange forebodings of ill, unseen and that cannot be com- passed. ''*"* As, at the tramp of a horse's hoof on the turf of the prairies. Far in advance are closed the leaves of the shrinking mimosa, ■ So, at the hoof-beats of fate, with sad forebodings of evil. Shrinks and closes the heart, ere the stroke of doom has attained it. But Evangeline's heart was sustained by a vision, that faintly ^»s Floated before her eyes, and beckoned her on through the moonlight. It was the thought of her brain that assumed the shape of a phantom. Through those shadowy aisles had Gabriel wandered before her, And every stroke of the oar now brought him nearer and nearer. Then in his place, at the prow of the boat, rose one of the oarsmen, '''"' And, as a signal sound, if others like them peradventure Sailed on those gloomy and midnight streams, b lew a bl ast on his bugle. Wild through tEe dark colonnades and corridors leafy the blast rang. . EVANGELINE. 43 Breaking the seal of silence and giving tongues to the forest. Soundless above them the banners of moss just stirred to the music. tss Multitudinous echoes awoke and died in the distance, Over the watery floor, and beneath the reverberant branches ; But not a voice replied ; no answer came from the darkness ; And when the echoes had ceased, like a sense of pain was the silence. Then Evangeline slept ; but the boatmen rowed through the midnight, «"" Silent at times, then singing familiar Canadian boat-songs, Such as they sang of old on their own Acadian rivers, While through the night were heard the mysterious sounds of the desert, Ea,r off,— indistinct, — as of wave or wind in the forest. Mixed with the whoop of the crane and the roar of the grim alligator. '^"^ Thus ere another noon they emerged from the shades; and before them Lay, in the golden sun, the lakes of the Atchafalaya. Water-lilies in myriads rocked on the slight undulations Made by the passing oars, and, resplendent in beauty, the lotus Lifted her golden crown above the heads of the boat- men. ^^^ Faint was the air with the odorous breath of magnolia blossoms, And with the heat of noon ; and numberless sylvan islands. Fragrant and thickly embowered with blossoming hedges of roses, Near to whose shores they glided along, invited to slumber. Soon by the fairest of these their weary oars were sus- pended. '^^^ Under the boughs of Wachita willows, that grew by the margin. Safely their boat was moored; and scattered about on the greensward. Tired with their midnight toil, the weary travellers slum- bered. 44 EVAKGELINB. Over them vast and high extended the cope of a cedar. Swinging from its great arms, the trumpet-flower and the grapevine ^'^^ Hung their ladder of ropes aloft like the ladder of Jacob, On whose pendulous stairs the angels ascending, de; scending, Were the swift humming-birds, that flitted from blossom to blossom. Such was the vision Evangeline saw as she slumbered be- neath it. Pilled was her heart with love, and the dawn of an open- ing heaven "^^ Lighted her soul in sleep with the glory of regions celestial. Nearer, ever nearer, among the numberless islands Darted a light, swift boat, that sped away o'er the water Urged on its course by the sinewy arms of hunters and trappers. Northward its prow was turned to the land of the bison and beaver. '''"' At the helm sat a youth, with countenance thoughtful and careworn. Dark and neglected locks overshadowed his brow, and a sadness Somewhat beyond his years on his face was legibly written. Gabriel was it, who, weary with waiting, unhappy and restless. Sought in the "Western wilds oblivion of self and of sorrow. '^'^^ Swiftly they glided along, close under the lee of the island. But by the opposite bank, and behind a screen of palmettos ; So that they saw not the boat, where it lay concealed in the willows ; All undisturbed by the dash of their oars, and unseen were the sleepers; Angel of God was there none to awaken the slumbering maiden. , "*" Swiftly they glided away, like the shade of a cloud on the prairie. After the sound of their oars on the tholes had died in the distance, As from a magic trance the sleepers awoke, and the maiden EVANGELINE 45 Said with a sigh to the friendly priest, " Father Felician ! Something says in my heart that near me Gabriel wan- ders. !**6 Is it a foolish dream, an idle and vague superstition ? Or has an angel passed, and revealed the truth to my spirit ?" Then, with a blush, she added, " Alas for my credulous fancy ! Unto ears like thine such words as these have no meaning."' But made answer the reverend man, and he smiled as he answered, — "s" " Daughter, thy words are not idle ; nor are they to me without meaning. Feeling is deep and still; and the word that floats on the surface Is as the tossing buoy, that betrays where the anchor is hidden. Therefore trust to thy heart, and to what the world calls illusions. Gabriel truly is near thee; for not far away to the south- ward, ^^^ On the banks of the Teche, are the towns of St. Maur and St. Martin. There the long-wandering bride shall be given again to her bridegroom. There the long-absent pastor regain his flock and his sheep- ' fold. Beautiful is the land, with its prairies and forests of fruit- trees ; Under the feet a garden of flowers and the bluest of heavens '"'" Bending above, and resting its dome on the walls of the forest. They who dwell there have named it the Eden of Lou- isiana." With these words of cheer they arose and continued their journey. Softly the evening came. The sun from the western horizon Like a magician extended his golden wand o'er the land- scape ; 46 EVANGELINE. Twmkling vapors arose ; and slsy and water and forest Seemed all on fire at the toueli, and melted and mingled together. Hanging between two skies, a cloud with edges of silver, Floated the hoat, with its dripping oars, on the motion- less water. Filled was Evangeline's heart with inexpressible sweet- ness. '*'''' Touched by the magic spell, the sacred fountains of feeling Glowed with the light of love, as the skies and waters around her. Then from a neighbouring thicket the mocking-bird, wild- est of singers, Swinging aloft on a willow spray that hung o'er the water, Shook from his little throat such floods of delirious music, That the whole air and the woods and the waves seemed silent to listen. Plaintive at first were the tones and sad; then soaring to madness Seemed they to follow or guide the revel of frenzied Bac- chantes., Single notes were then heard, in sorrowful, low lamenta- tion ; Till, having gathered them all, he flung them abroad in derision, **"" As when, after a storm, a gust of wind through the tree- tops Shakes down the rattling rain in a crystal shower on the branches. With such a prelude as this, and hearts that throbbed with emotion, Slowly they entered the Teche, where it flows through the green Opelousas, And, through the amber air, above the crest of the wood- land, , _»»s Saw the column of smoke that arose from a neighbouring dwelling ; — Sounds of a horn they heard, and the distant lowing of cattle. EVANGELINE. 47 III. Near to the bank of the river, o'ershadowed by oaks from whose branches Garlands of Spanish moss and of mystic mistletoe flaunted, Such as the Druids cut down with golden hatchets at Yule- tide, Si*" Stood, secluded and still, the house of the herdsman. A garden Girded it round about with a belt of luxuriant blossoms, Filling the air with fragrance. The house itself was of timbers Hewn from the cypress-tree, and carefully fitted together. Large and low was the roof; and on slender columns sup- ported, ^^^ Eose- wreathed, vine-encircled, a broad and spacious veranda, Haunt of the humming-bird and the bee, extended around it. At each end of the house, amid the flowers of the garden. Stationed the dove-cots were, as love's perpetual symbol, Scenes of endless wooing, and endless contentions of rivals. ^"^ ■ Silence reigned o'er the place. The line of shadow and sunshine Ean near the tops of the trees ; but the house itself was in shadow. And from its chimney-top, ascending and slowly expanding Into the evening air, a thin blue column of smoke rose. In the rear of the house, from the garden gate, ran a path- way . ""^ Through the great groves of oak to the skirts of the limit- less prairie. Into whose sea of flowers the sun was slowly descending. Full in his track of light, like ships with shadowy canvas Hanging loose from theii; spars in a motionless calm in the tropics. Stood a cluster of trees, with tangled cordage of grape- vines. ^^° Just where the woodlands met the flowery surf of the prairie, Mounted upon his horse, with Spanish saddle and stirrups 48 EVANGELINE. Sat a herdsman, arrayed in gaiters and doublet of deerskin. Broad and brown was the face that from under the Spanish sombrero Gazed on the peaceful scene, with the lordly look of its master. ' "^^ Eound about him were numberless herds of kine that were grazing Quietly in the meadows, and breathing the vapoury fresh- ness That uprose from the river, and spread itself over the land- scape. Slowly lifting the horn that hung at his side, and expanding Fully his broad, deep chest, he blew a blast, that re- sounded ' '*-" Wildly and sweet and far, through the still damp air of the evening. Suddenly out of the grass the long white horns of the cattle Eose like flakes of foam on the adverse currents of ocean. Silent a moment they gazed, then bellowing rushed o'er the prairie, And the whole mass became a cloud, a shade in the dis- tance. ^'^^ Then, as the herdsman turned to the house, through the gate of the garden Saw he the forms of the priest and the maiden advancing to meet him. Suddenly down from his horse he sprang in amazement, and forward Pushed with extended arms and exclamations of wonder ; When they beheld his face, they recognized Basil the black- smith. "J^o Hearty his welcome was, as he led his guests to the garden. There in an arbour of roses with endless question and answer Gave they vent to their hearts, and renewed their friendly embraces. Laughing and weeping by turns, or sitting silent and thoughtful. Thoughtful, for Gabriel came not; and now dark doubts and misgivings ''■^^ Stole o'er the maiden's heart; and Basil, somewhat em- barrassed. EVANGELINE. 4D Broke the silence and said, " If you came by the Atcha- lalaya, How have you nowhere encountered my Gabriel's boat on the bayous?" Over Evangeline's face at the words of Basil a shade passed. Tears came into her eyes, and she said, with a tremulous accent, «*» " Gone ? is Gabriel gone ?" and, concealing her face on his shoulder, All her o'erburdened heart gave way, and she wept and lamented. Then the good Basil said, — and his voice grew blithe as he said it, — " Be of good cheer, my child ; it is only to-day he departed. Foolish boy! he has left me alone with my herds and my horses. ^^^ Moody and restless grown, and tried and troubled, his spirit Could no longer endure the calm of this quiet existence. Thinking ever of thee, uncertain and sorrowful ever. Ever silent, or speaking only of thee and his troubles, He at length had become so tedious to men and to maidens, '*^" Tedious even to me, that at length I bethought me, and sent him TJnto the town of Adayes to trade for mules with the Spaniards. Th,ence he will follow the Indian trails to the Ozark Moun- tains, Hunting for furs in the forests, on rivers trapping the beaver. Therefore be of ffood cheer: we will follow the fugitive lover; ''^ He is not far on his way, and the Fates and the streams are against him. Up and away to-morrow, and through the red dew of the morning. We will follow him fast, and bring him back to his prison." Then glad voices were heard, and up from the banks of the river. Borne aloft on his comrades' arms, came Michael the fiddler. "*" 50 EVANGELINE. Long under Basil's roof had he lived, like a god on Olyrapus, Having no other care than dispensing music to mortals. Par renowned was he for his silver locks and his fiddle. " Long live Michael/' they cried, " our brave Acadian min- strel !" As they bore him aloft in triumphal procession; and straightway ""'^ Father Felician advanced with Evangeline, greeting the old man Kindly and oft, and recalling the past, while Basil, en- raptured, Hailed with hilarious joy his old companions and gossips, Laughing loud and long, and embracing mothers and daughters. Much they marvelled to see the wealth of the ci-devant blacksmith, "'"* All his domains and his herds, and his patriarchial de- meanour ; Much they marvelled to hear his tales of the soil and the climate. And of the prairies, whose numberless herds were his who would take them; Each one thought in his heart, that he, too, would go and do likewise. Thus they ascended the steps, and crossing the breezy veranda, "'* Entered the hall of the house, where already the supper of Basil Waited his late return ; and they rested and feasted together. Over the joyous feast the sudden darkness descended. All was silent without, and illuming the landscape with silver. Pair rose the dewy moon and the myriad stars ; but within doors, "'*'' Brighter than these, shone the faces of friend in the glim- mering lamplight. Then from his station aloft, at the head of the table, the herdsman Poured forth his heart and his wine together in endless profusion. EVANGELINE. 51 Lighting his pipe, that was filled with sweet Natchitoches tobacco, Thus he spake to his guests, who listened, and smiled as they listened : — »»5 " Welcome once more, my friends, who long have been friendless and homeless. Welcome once more to a home, that is better perchance than the old one! Here no hungry winter congeals our blood like the rivers ; Here no stony ground provokes the wrath of the farmer ; Smoothly the ploughshare runs through the soil, as a keel through the water. ^^'^ All the year round the orange-groves are in blossom; and grass grows More in a single night than a whole Canadian summer. Here, too, numberless herds run wild and unclaimed in the prairies ; Here, too, lands may be had for the asking, and forests of timber With a few blows of the axe are hewn and framed into houses. ""^ After your houses are built and your fields are yellow with harvests. No King George of England shall drive you away from your homesteads. Burning your dwellings and barns, and stealing your farms and your cattle." Speaking these words, he blew a wrathful cloud from his nostrils. While his huge, brown hand came thundering down on the table, "»» So that the guests all started; and Father Eelician, astounded. Suddenly paused, with a pinch of snuS half-way to his nostrils. But the brave Basil resumed, and his words were milder and gayer: — " Only beware of the fever, my friends, beware of the fever ! For it is not like that of our cold Acadian climate, ^""^ Cured by wearing a spider hung round one's neck in a nutshell !" 52 EVANGELINE. Then there were voices heard at the door, and footsteps approaching Sounded upon the stairs and the floor of the breezy veranda. It was the neighbouring Creoles and small Acadian planters, Who had been summoned all to the house of Basil the herdsman. ^"^^ Merry the meeting was of ancient comrades and neighbours : Friend clasped friend in his arms; and they who before were as strangers, Meeting in exile, became straightway as friends to each other. Drawn by the gentle bond of a common country together. But in the nighbouring hall a strain of music, proceed- ing i"i5 From the accordant strings of Michael's melodious fiddle, Broke up all further speech. Away, like children delighted. All things forgotten oeside, they gave themselves to the maddening Whirl of the dizzy dance, as it swept and swayed to the music, Dreamlike, with beaming eyes and the rush of fluttering garments. ^"''^ Meanwhile, apart, at the head of the hall, the priest and the herdsman Sat, conversing together of past and present and future; While Evangeline stood like one entranced, for within her Olden memories rose, and loud in the midst of the music Heard she the sound of the sea, and an irrepressible sad- ness ' ^^'■^^ Came o'er her heart, and unseen she stole forth into the garden. Beautiful was the night. Behind the black wall of the forest. Tipping its summit with silver, arose the moon. On the river Fell here and there through the branches a tremulous gleam of the moonlight, Like the sweet thoughts of love on a darkened and devious spirit. i"!!" Nearer and round about her, the manifold flowers of the garden EYAJ^GELINE. 53 Poured out their souls in odours, that were their prayers and confessions Unto the night, as it went its way, like a silent Carthusian. Fuller of fragrance than they, and as heavy with shadows and night-dews, Hung the heart of the maiden. The calm and the magical i"**^ Seemed to inundate her soul with indefinable longings, As, through the garden gate, and beneath the shade of the oak-trees. Passed she along the path to the edge of the measureless prairie. Silent it lay, with a silvery haze upon it, and fire-iiies Gleaming and floating away in mingled and infinite num- bers. . 1"" Over her head the stars, the thoughts of God in the heavens. Shone on the eyes of man, who had ceased to marvel and worship, Save when a blazing comet was seen on the walls of that temple. As if a hand had appeared and written upon them, " Upharsin." And the soul of the maiden, between the siiars and the fire- flies, i»*5 Wandered alone, and she cried, " Gabriel ! my be- loved ! Art then so near unto me, and yet I cannot behold thee ? Art thou so near unto me, and yet thy voice does not reach me? Ah ! how often thy feet have trod this path to the prairie ! Ah' how often thine eyes have looked on the woodlands around me! , i"^» Ah ! how often beneath this oak, returning from labour. Thou hast lain down to rest, and to dream of me in thy slumbers ! When shall these eyes behold, these arms be folded about thee?" Loud and sudden and near the note of a whippoorwil sounded Like a flute in the woods; and anon, through the neigh- bouring thickets, ^"^^ 54 EVANGELINE. Farther and farther away it floated and dropped into silence. " Patience !'' whispered the oaks from oracular caverns of darkness ; And, frgm the moonlit meadow, a sigh responded, " To- morrow !" Bright rose the sun next day ; and all the flowers of the garden Bathed his shining feet with their tears, and anointed his tresses ■""''* With the delicious balm that they bore in their vases of crystal. " Farewell !" said the priest, as he stood at the shadowy threshold ; " See that you bring us the Prodigal Son from his fasting and famine, And, too, the Foolish Virgin, who slept when the bride- groom was coming." " Farewell !" answered the maiden, and, smiling, with Basil descended ^"^^ Down to the river's brink, where the boatmen already were waiting. Thus beginning their journey with morning, and sunshine, and gladness, Swiftly they followed the flight of him who was speeding before them. Blown by the blast of fate like a dead leaf over the desert. Not that day, nor the next, nor yet the day that suc- ceeded, i^o ' Found they trace of his course, in lake or forest or river, Nor, after many days, had they found him ; but vague and uncertain Eumours alone were their guides through a wild and deso- late country; Till, at the little inn of the Spanish town of Adayes, Weary and worn, they alighted, and learned from the gar- rulous landlord ^"''^ That on the day before, with horses and guides and com- panions, Gabriel left the village, and took the road of the prairies. EVANGELINE. 55 IV. Far in the West there lies a desert land, where the mountains Lift, through perpetual snows, their lofty and luminous summits. Down from their jagged, deep ravines, wiiere the gorge, like a gateway, lu^so Opens a passage rude to the wheels of the emigrant's wagon. Westward the Oregon flows and the Wallewav and Owyhee. Eastward, with devious course, among the Wind-river Mountains, Through the Sweet-water Valley precipitate leaps the Nebraska ; And to the south, from Fontaine-qui-bout and the Spanish sierras, i'"'^ Fretted with sands and rocks, and swept by the wind of the desert. Numberless torrents, with ceaseless sound, descend to the ocean. Like the great chords of a harp, in loud and solemn vibra- tions. Spreading between these streams are the wondrous, beau- tiful prairies. Billowy bays of grass ever rolling in shadow and sun- shine, "^0 Bright with luxuriant clusters of roses and purple amor- phas. Over them wandered the buffalo herds, and the elk and the roebuck ; Over them wandered the wolves, and herds of riderless horses ; Fires that blast and blight, and winds that are weary with travel ; Over them wander the scattered tribes of Ishmael's children, ^''^^ Staining the desert with blood; and above their terrible war-trails Circles and sails aloft, on pinions majestic, the vulture, Like the implacable soul of a chieftain slaughtered in battle. 56 EVANGELINE. By invisible stairs ascending and scaling the heavens. Here and there rise smokes from the camps of these savage marauders ; ^^'^^ Here and there rise groves from the margins of swift-run- ning rivers; And the grim, taciturn bear, the anchorite monk of the desert, Climbs down their dark ravines to dig for roots by the brook-side. And over all is the sky, the clear and crystalline heaven, Like the protecting hand of God inverted above them. ^^"^ Into this wonderful land, at the base of the Ozark Moun- tains, Gabriel far had entered, with hunters and trappers behind him. Day after day, with their Indian guides, the maiden and Basil Followed his flying steps, and thought each day to o'ertake him. Sometimes they saw, or thought they saw, the smoke of his camp-fire ^i^" Else in the morning air from the distant plain; but at nightfall. When they had reached the place, they found only embers and ashes. And, though their hearts were sad at times and their bodies were weary, Hope still guided them on, as the magic Fata Morgana Showed them her lakes of light, that retreated and vanished before them. ^^^^ Once, as they sat by their evening fire, there silently entered Into the little camp an Indian woman, whose features Wore deep traces of sorrow, and patience as great as her sorrow. She was a Shawnee woman returning home to her people. From the far-off hunting-grounds of the cruel Caman- ches, 11^0 Where her Canadian husband, a coureur-des-bois. had been murdered. EVANGELINE. 57 Touched were their hearts at her story, and warmest and friendliest welcome Gave they, with words of cheer, and she sat and feasted among them On the buffalo-meat and the venison cooked on the embers. But when their meal was done, and Basil and all his com- panions, 11^5 Worn with the long day's march and the chase of the deer and the bison. Stretched themselves on the ground, and slept where the quivering fire-light Plashed on their swarthy cheeks, and their forms wrapped up in the blankets. Then at the door of Evangeline's tent she sat and repeated Slowly, with soft, low voice, and the charm of hSr Indian accent, ii^** All the tale of her love, with its pleasures, and pains, and reverses. Much Evangeline wept at the tale, and to know that another Hapless heart like her own had loved and had been dis- appointed. Moved to the depths of her soul by pity and woman's com- passion, Yet in her sorrow pleased that one who had suffered was near her, ^^^^ She in turn related her love and all its disasters. Mute with wonder the Shawnee sat, and when she had ended Still was mute; but at length, as if a mysterious horror Passed throu.s:h her brain, she spake, and repeated the tale ,of the Mowis; Mowis, the bridegroom of snow, who won and Y^dded a maiden, "*° But, when the morning came, arose and passed from the wigwam. Fading and melting away and dissolving into the sunshine. Till she beheld him no more, though she followed far into the forest. Then, in those sweet, low tones, that seemed like a weird incantation. Told she the tale of the fair Lilinau, who was wooed by a phantom, ii«s 58 EVANGELINE. That through the ^ines o'er her father's lodge in the hush of the twilight, Breathed like the evening wind, and whispered love to the maiden. Till she followed his green and waving plume through the forest. And nevermore returned, nor was seen again by her people. Silent with wonder and strange surprise, Evangeline listened i"u To the soft flow of her magical words, till the region around her Seemed like enchanted ground, and her swarthy guest the enchantress. Slowly over the tops of the Ozark Mountains the moon rose, Lighting the little tent, and with a mysterious splendour Touching the sombre leaves, and embracing and filling the woodland. ^^^* With a delicious sound the brook rushed by, and the branches Swayed and sighed overhead in scarcely audible whispers. Filled with the thoughts of love was Evangeline's heart, but a secret. Subtile sense crept in of pain and indefinite terror, As the cold, poisonous snake creeps into the nest of , the swallow. ^^^^ It was no earthly fear. A breath from the region of spirits Seemed to float in the air of night; and she felt for a moment That, like the Indian maid, she, too, was pursuing a phantom. With this thought she slept, and the fear and the phaQtom had vanished. Early upon the morrow the march was resumed, and the Shawnee ^i'*^ Said, as they Journeyed along, — " On the western slope of these mountains Dwells in his little village the Black Eobe chief of the Mission. Much he teaches the people, and tells them of Mary and Jesus ; EVANGELINE. 59 Loud laugh their hearts with joy, and weep with pain, as they hear him." Then, with a sudden and secret emotion, Evangeline an- swered, ii'" "Let us go to the Mission, for there good tidings await usP' Thither they turned their steeds ; and behind a spur of the mountains. Just as the sun went down, they heard a murmur of voices. And in a meadow green and broad, by the bank of a river. Saw the tents of the Christians, the tents of the Jesuit Mission. i"6 Under a towering oak, that stood in the midst of the village, Knelt the Black Eobe chief with his children. A crucifix fastened i High on the trunk of the tree, and overshadowed by grape- vines, Looked with its agonized face on the multitude kneeling beneath it. This was their rural chapel. Aloft, through the intricate arches ^^"^ Of its aerial roof, arose the chant of their vespers. Mingling its notes with the soft susurrus and sighs of the branches. Silent, with heads uncovered, the travellers, nearer ap- proaching. Knelt on the swarded floor, and joined in the evening devotions. But when the service was done, and the benediction had fallen ""^ Forth from the hands of the priest, like seed from the hands of the sower. Slowly the reverend man advanced to the strangers, and bade them Welcome; and when they replied, he smiled with benig- nant expression, Hearing the homelike sounds of his mother-tongue in the forest, And, with words of kindness, conducted them into his wig- wam. ^^^'^ There upon mats and skins they reposed, and on cakes of the maize-ear 60 EVANGELINE. Feasted, and slaked their thirst from the water-gourd of the teacher. Soon was their story told; and the priest with solemnity answered : — " Not six suns have risen and set since Gabriel, seated On this mat by my side, where now the maiden reposes, ^^"^ Told me the same sad tale; then arose and continued his journey !" Soft was the voice of the priest, and he spake with an ac- cent of kindness; But on Evangeline's heart fell his words as in winter the snow-flakes Pall into some lone nest from which the birds have de- parted. " Far to the north he has gone," continued the priest ; "but in autumn, ^^"^ When the chase is done, will return again to the Mission." Then Evangeline said, and her voice was meek and sub- missive, " Let me remain with thee, for my soul is sad and afflicted." So seemed it wise and well unto all; and betimes on the morrow. Mounting his Mexican steed, with his Indian guides and companions, ^^'"' Homeward Basil returned, and Evangeline stayed at the Mission. Slowly, slowly, slowly the days succeeded each other, — Days and weeks and months; and the fields of maize that were springing Green from the ground when a stranger she came, now waving about her, Lifted their slender shafts, with leaves interlacing, and forming ^^^o Cloisters for mendicant crows and granaries pillaged by squirrels. Then in the golden weather the maize was husked, and the maidens Blushed at each blood-red ear, for that betokened a lover, But at the crooked laughed, and called it a thief in the corn-field. EVANGELINE. ^ 61 ■Even the blood-red ear to Evangeline brought not her lover. ^'^^^ " Patience !" the priest would say ; " have faith, and thy prayer will be answered ! Look at this vigorous plant that lifts its head from the meadow. See how its leaves are turned to the north, as true as the magnet ; This is the compass-flower, that the finger of God has planted Here in the houseless wild, to direct the traveller's jour- ney 1^^" Over the sea-like, pathless, limitless waste of the desert. Such in the soul of man is faith. The bldssoms of passion, Gay and luxuriant flowers, are brighter and fuller fragrance. But they beguile us, and lead us astray, and their odour is deadly. Only this humble plant can guide us here, and hereafter ^^^^ Crown us with asphodel flowers, that are wet with the dews of nepenthe." So came the autumn, and passed, and the winter — yet Gabriel came not; Blossomed the opening spring, and the notes of the robin and bluebird Sounded sweet upon wold and in wood, ,yet Gabriel came not. But on the breath of the summer winds a rumour was wafted ^'"" Sweeter than song of bird, or hue or odour of blossom. Far to the north and east, it said, in the Michigan forests, Gabriel had his lodge by the banks of the Saginaw Eiver. And, with returning guides, that sought the lakes of St. Lawrence, Saying a sad farewell, Evangeline went from the Mis- sion. . ^^^* When over weary ways, by long and perilous marches. She had attained at length the depths of the Michigan forests, Found she the hunter's lodge deserted and fallen to ruin ! 63 EVANGELINE. Thus did the long sad years glide on, and in seasons and places • Divers and distant far was seen the wandering maiden;— ^'^*'' Now in the Tents of Grace of the meek Moravian Missions, Now in the noisy camps and the battle-fields of the army, Now in secluded hamlets, in towns and populous cities. Like a phantom she came, and passed away unremembered. Fair was she and young, when in hope began the long Journey ; i^" Faded was she and old, when in disappointment it ended. Each succeeding year stole somethmg away from her beauty. Leaving behind it, broader and deeper, the gloom and the shadow. Then there appeared and spread faint streaks of gray o'er her forehead, iDawn of another life, that broke o'er her earthly hori- zon, 1^60 As in the eastern sky the first faint streaks of the morning. V. In that delightful land which is washed by the Dela- ware's waters. Guarding in sylvan shades the name of Penn the apostle. Stands on the banks of its beautiful stream the city he founded. 'ihere all the air is balm, and the peach is the emblem of beauty, i^ss And the streets still reecho the names of the trees of the forest. As if they fain would appease the Dryads whose haunts they molested. There from the troubled sea had Evangeline landed, an exile. Finding among the children of Penn a home and a country. There old Eene Leblanc had died; and when he de- parted, 1260 Saw at his side only one of all his hundred descendants. Something at least there was in the friendly streets of the city, EVANGELINE. 63 Something that spake to her heart, and made her no longer. a stranger; And her ear was pleased with the Thee and Thou of the Quakers, For it recalled the past, the old Acadian country, ^"""^ Where all men were equal, and all were brothers and sisters. So, when the fruitless search, the disappointed endeavour. Ended, to recommence no more upon earth, uncomplaining. Thither, as leaves to the light, were turned her thoughts and her footsteps. As from a mountain's top the rainy mists of the morn- ing i^''" EoU away and afar we behold the landscape below us, Sun-illumined, with shining rivers and cities and hamlets. So fell the mists from her mind, and she saw the world far below her, Dark no longer, but all illumined with love ; and the path- way Which she had climbed so far, lying smooth and fair in the distance. ^'^'^ Gabriel was not forgotten. Within her heart was his image, Clothed in the beauty of love and youth, as last she beheld him. Only more beautiful made by his deathlike silence and absence. Into her thoughts of him time entered not, for it was not. Over him years had no power; he was not changed, but transfigured; ^'^^^ He had become to her heart as one who is dead, and not absent ; Patience and abnegation of self, and devotion to others. This was the lesson a life of trial and sorrow had taught her. So was her love diffused, but, like to some odorous spices. Suffered no waste nor loss, though filling the air with aroma. . ^'■"''^ Other hope had she none, nor wish in life, but to follow. Meekly with reverent steps, the sacred feet of her Saviour. Thus many years she lived as a Sister of Mercy; fre- quenting Lonely and wretched roofs in the crowded lanes of the city, 64 EVANGELINE. Where distress and want concealed themselves from the sunlight, li"*" Where disease and sorrow in garrets languished neglected. Night after night when the world was asleep, as the watch- man repeated Loud, through the gusty streets, that all was well in the city, High at some lonely window he saw the light of her taper. Day after day, in the gray of the dawn, as slow through the suburbs ^"'^ Plodded the German farmer, with flowers and fruits for the market, Met he that meek, pale face, returning home from its watchings. Then it came to pass that a pestilence fell on the city, Presaged by wondrous signs, and mostly by flocks of wild pigeons. Darkening the sun in their flight, with naught in their craws but an acorn. ^*"'" And, as the tides of the sea arise in the month of Sep- tember, Flooding some silver stream, till it spreads to a lake in the meadow. So death flooded life, and, o'erflowing its natural margin, Spread to a brackish lake the silver stream of existence. Wealth had no power to bribe, nor beauty to charm, the oppressor; i^''^ But all perished alik^ beneath the scourge of his anger ; — Only, alas ! the poor, who had neither friends nor attend- ants, Crept away to die in the almshouse, home of the homeless. Then in the suburbs it stood, in the midst of meadows and woodlands ; — Now the city surrounds it; but still, with its gateway and wicket ■ i^io Meek, in the midst of splendour, its humble walls seem to echo Softly the words of the Lord : — " The poor ye always have with you." Thither, by night and by day, came the Sister of Mercy. The dying EVAISTGELINE. C5 Looked up into her face, and thought, indeed, to behold there Gleams of celestial light encircle her forehead with splen- dour, 1315 Such as the artist paints o'er the brows of saints and apostles. Or such as hangs by night o'er a city seen at a distance. Unto their eyes it seemed the lamps of the city celestial. Into whose shining gates erelong their spirits would enter. Thus, on a Sabbath morn, through the streets, deserted and silent, '»-» Wending her quiet way, she entered the door of the alms- house. Sweet on the summer air was the odour of flowers in the ga-rden. And as she paused on her way to gather the fairest among them. That the dying once more niight rejoice in their fragrance and beauty. Then, as she mounted the stairs to the corridor, cooled by the east-wind, ^*^^ Distant and soft on her ear fell the chimes from the belfry of Christ Church, While, intermingled with these, across the meadows were wafted Sounds of psalms, that were sung by the Swedes in their church at Wicaco. Soft as descending wings fell the calm of the hour on her spirit ; Something within her said, "At length thy trials are .ended;" And, with light in her looks, she entered the chambers of sickness. Noiselessly moved about the assiduous, careful attendants, Moistening the feverish lip, and the aching brow, and in silence Closing the sightless eyes of the dead, and concealing their faces. Where on their pallets they lay, like drifts of snow by the roadside. ^^'''' Many a languid head, upraised as Evangeline entered, 5 C6 EVANGELINE. Turned on its pillow of pain to gaze while she passed, for her presence Fell on their hearts like a ray of the sun on the walls of a prison. And, as she looked around, she saw how Death, the con- soler. Laying his hand upon many a heart, had healed it for ever. ^'^*'^ Many familiar forms had disappeared in the night time; Vacant their places were, or filled already by strangers. Suddenly, as if arrested by fear or a feeling of wonder, Still she stood, with her colourless lips apart, while a shudder Ran through her frame, and, forgotten, the flowerets dropped from her fingers, ■'■'**^ And from her eyes and cheeks the light and bloom of the morning. Then there escaped from her lips a cry of such terrible anguish. That the dying heard it, and started up from their pillows. On the_paUet_before her was stretched the form of an old man. Long, and thin, and gray were the locks that shaded his temples ; ^^^^ But, as he lay ia the morning light, his face for a moment Seemed to assume once more the forms of its earlier man- hood ; So are wont to be changed the faces of those who are dying. Hot and red on his lips still burned the flush of the fever. As if life, like the Hebrew, with blood had besprinkled its portals. i''^* That the Angel of Death might see the sign, and pass over. Motionless, senseless, dying, he lay, and his spirit ex- hausted Seemed to be sinking down through infinite depths in the darkness. Darkness of slumber and death, for ever sinking and sink- ing- Then through those realms of shade, in multiplied re- verberatidns, i^^" Heard he that cry of pain, and through the hush that suc- ceMed EVANGELINE. 67 Whispered a gentle voice, in accents tender and saintlike, " Gabriel ! my beloved !" and died away into silence. Then he beheld, in a dream, once more the home of his childhood; Green Acadian meadows, with sylvan rivers among them, 136'g Village and mountain, and woodlands ; and, walking under their shadow. As in the days of her youth, Evangeline rose in his vision. Tears came into his eyes ; and as slowly he lifted his eye- lids. Vanished the vision away, but Evangeline knelt by his bedside. Vainly he strove to whisper her name, for the accents un- uttered i^^l" Died on his lips, and their motion revealed what his tongue would have spoken. Vainly he strove to rise; and Evangeline, kneeling beside him. Kissed his dying lips, and laid his head on her bosom. Sweet was the light of his eyes; but it suddenly sank into darkness. As when a lamp is blown out by a gust of wind at a case- ment, i^''^ All was ended now, the hope, and the fear, and the sorrow. All the aching of heart, the restless, unsatisfied longing, All the dull, deep pain, and constant anguish of patience ! And as she pressed once more the lifeless head to her bosom. Meekly she bowed her own, and murmured, " Father, I thank thee !" i'*'" Still stands the forest primeval; but far away from its shadow. Side by side, in their nameless graves, the lovers are sleeping. Under the humble walls of the little Catholic churchyard, In the heart of the city, they lie, unknown and unnoticed. Daily the tides of life go ebbing and fiowinsr beside them. "85 68 EVANGELIXE. Thousands of throbing hearts, where theirs are at rest and for ever. Thousands of aching brains, where theirs no longer are busy, Thousands of toiling hands, where theirs have ceased from their labours, Thousands of weary feet, where theirs have completed their journey ! Still stands the forest primeval ; -but under the shade of its branches ^■^^^ Dwells another race, with other customs and language. Only along the shore of the mournful and misty Atlantic Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile Wandered back to their native land to die in its bosom. In the fisherman's cot the wheel and the loom are still busy ; ^''^^ Maidens still wear their Norman caps and their kirtles of homespun. And by 'the evening fire repeat Evangeline's story. While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced, neighbouring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest.