ALBERT R. MANN LffiRARY AT CORNELL UNIVERSrTY DATE DUE Cornell University Library TP 548.M16 Hand-book of wines, practical, theoretic 3 1924 003 620 659 The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003620659 HAND-BOOK OF WINES. HAND-BOOK OF WINES, PRACTICAL, THEORETICAL, AND HISTORICAL ; WITH A DESOEIPTION OF FOREIGN SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS. BY THOMAS MCMULLEN. Kuowledge is indeed as necessary as I'ght, and in this coming age most fairly proiuisea to bo ns common as water, and as free as air. But as it has been wisely ordained that light sliould have uo color, water no taste, and air no odor, so knowledge also should be equally pure, and without ad- mixture. If it conies to ns through the medium of prejudice, it will be discolored ; through the channels of custom, it will be adulterated; through the Gothic walls of the college or of ftie cloister, it will smell of the lamp. — Coltox. NEW-YORK: D. APPLETON AND COM PA NY 200 BEOADWAY M.DCCC.LIl. TP Mi4 378363 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the ygar 1852, by THOMAS MoMTJLLEN, in tlie Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New- York. PEEFAGE. ,>,-.. The publication of this Volume originated in the numerous inquiries made for authentic information upon the subject of Wines. In the preparation, of the work all extraneous matter and useless details have been excluded ; condensation is studied with- out omitting what is most useful and interesting ; the materials are derived from a long practical ex- perience, and from the most valuable sources of information. From the extensive nomenclature of wines, it has been deemed desirable to treat of such only as are known in commerce and consumption. To describe every variety, therefore, would be foreign to the purpose ; and even if it were accomplished, it would doubtless prove uninteresting to the majority of readers. The authorities consulted comprise all worthy of note, including Henderson, Eedding, Jullien, McCulloch, Ure, Brande, Morewood, Pereira, the A* PREFACE. enumeration of which will obviate the necessity of interrupting the narrative and incumbering the work with notes. A glance at the Table of Contents will prepare the reader for the variety of the volume, and an Index of the several Wines treated of will enable him to refer to any particular kind. A supplement is added, containing a list of all the known Wines, Spirits, and Liquors, and the countries in which they are produced. T. M. New-Yobk, Feb. 9th, 1852. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I.— Of the Vine. Regions of cultnre — ^Climate — ^Latitude and elevation — Countries in wliicli most productive — Causes that influence difference in quality— Primitive seat — Natural and artificial distribution — description of the plant — Superiority and distinction above all others — Introduction into Europe — Soils and sites most favorable — Innumerable varieties — Modes of training, prun- ing, and culture — Longevity — Fruitfuluess— Usefulness— Su- perstitious applications 1 CHAPTEE II.— Of the Ghape. Erroneous opinions of its properties — Size — Flavor derived from the soil — Qualities determined by varieties of the plant, soil, and situation — ^Flavor produced by degrees of pressure — Ex- traordinary size — Dietetic and restorative properties 11 CHAPTEE III.— Of the Vintage. The first wine grower — Abundance of the Eastern vineyards — The vintage an ancient jubilee — ^Vintage at Xerez — Period for gathering the grape — ^Vintage operations in France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal — ^Modes of pressing the grapes and fer- mentation — ^Wine made without pressing — Must, its value and use — Murk, its useful purposes and medicinal propertios 17 vm CONTENTS. CHAPTEK IV.— Of Feb3o;ntation. Primary cause unknown — Temperature — Principle — Frooess — Time required — Color — ^Essential ingredients — Secondary fer- mentation — Precipitation and invisible fermentation 26 CHAPTEE v.— Of Wine. Different from other fermented beverages — Causes of the extreme variety in species and quality — Modes of obtaining different kinds — Color derived from the skin of the grape — Division of red and whtite— Still— Dry— Sparkling— Sweets-Strong— Weak — Three kinds made from one species of grape 30 CHAPTEE VI.— Or Wine. Principles which originate the bouquet and aroma — ^Difficulty of distinguishing qualities — Definition of the properties — Flavor of new and mature wines — Odor and flavor chiefly referable to the soil — Causes of erroneous descriptions — Ingredients of wine^Classic delineation of perfect wine — Properties which constitute differences — Comparison of red and white wines — Durability of flne wine and how distinguished from ordinary 37 CHAPTEE VII.— Of the Wines of Feanob. Introduction of the vine — France the vineyard of the earth — The superiority of her wines above all others — Their variety and durability — Wine cultivation one of her inost important branches of industry Wines of the Gironde — Claret and its various growths — Grave wines — Grand summary of the wines of the Gironde — Champagne — Still — Creaming — ^High sparkling — Classic description of creaming Champagne — Gen- eral observations on Champagne — Manufacture — Burgundy and its various growths — Controversy as to the comparative merits of Champagne and Burgundy — Hermitage— Cote Eotie — ^Eousillon— Eivesaltes — Frontignao — Vin de Paille— St. P^- rai — Vin de Garde 46 CHAPTEE VIII.— Of the Wines of Spain. The climate and position of Spain render its natural advantages unparalleled — Non-application of science to the manufacture of CONTENTS. IX wine prevents her being the first wine country in the world — Sherry or Serez — Amontillado — ^Vino de Paato — Manzanilla — Oloroso — Sack — Paxaretta — Pedro Ximenes — Lagrima de Ma^ lago — Tent — ^Val de Penas — ^Benl Carlos — Majorca and Minorca 79 CHAPTEE IX.— Of the Wikes of MADEniA. Introduction of the vine — Madeira wine distinguished for its ex- traordinary durability and superiority — Malmsey — Sercial — Enal— Tinto— Tinta— Verdeilho 90 CHAPTEE X.— Of the Wines of Pobtdqai,. Introduction of Port wines into England— Beginning of adultera- tion — Eoyal wine company and its operations — Alto Douro — Mode of manufacture — Oporto — Description of good Port — Colares — Barra-arBarra — ^Bucellas — Termo — Arinto — ^Lisbon — St. TJbes Malmsey — Carcavellos 98 CHAPTER XL— Of the Wines of Geemant. Epoch of the vine in Germany — latitude of cultivation — Locality of the best vineyards — ^Mode of manufacture — Capacious wine vessels — ^Preservation and improvement of the wines — Gene- ral qualities — Abiience of alcohol — Celebrated vintages — Jo- hannisberger — Steinberger — ■ Eudesheiraer — Hookheimer — Moselle — Unrivalled durability — Wholesomeness 104 CHAPTEE XII.— Of the Wines of the Canaries. Introduction of the vine— Howell's description of Canary — Vido- nia — Malvasia — Sack — Teneriffe 114 CHAPTEE XIIL— Of the Wines of Italy. The natural capabilities of the country grossly neglected — Wine growers. more intent on quantity than quality — The manufac- ture of wines conducted in a slovenly, careless manner — Wines of Asti — Lacryraa Christi US CHAPTEE XIV.— Of the Wines of Sicily. Great ignorance and neglect displayed in the cultivation of the vine, and in the manufacture of wine — Sicily Madeira — Syra- cuse — Messina — Val di Mazara 122 X CONTENTS. PAGB CHAPTEE XV.— Of the Wines of Hungabt. Early introduction of the vine — Quality of wines superior — Quan- tity considerable — ^Tokay — ^Tokay Ausbrucli — Tokay Maslas — Mode of manufacture — ^Extravagant prices — ^Relative and in- trinsic quality and value 124 CHAPTEE XVI.— Of the Wines of Gbeeoe. Climate and soil highly propitious — System of manufacture bad- Cyprus — 'Commandaria, its fabulous restorative properties — Great durability — Wines of the smaller Greek islands 131 CHAPTEE XVII.— Of the Wikes of Peesia. Persia the native country of the vine — Secret and excessive indul- gence of the Turks and Mohammedans — ^\'arieties made at Shiraz — Great similarity to Madeira 186 CHAPTEE XVIII.— Of the Wines of the Cape of Good Hope. Their inferior qualities — Constantia and Cape Hock exceptions. . . 139 CHAPTEE XIX.— Miscellanies. Vinum Theologioum — Vino Santo — Pure Juice — ^Vin de Liqueur — Vin Fou — Frozen wine — Dibs — Covering wines — Boiled wines — Terms 141 CHAPTEE XX.— Of the Conservation of Wines. Amelioration — Age and maturity — Keeping of wines — Wine cellar — Fungi 150 CHAPTEE XXI.— Of the Mixing of Wines. Description and qualities sought for in good wines — The difficulty of procuring perfect wine, especially Port — The wines of France among the purest— Sweet wines easy of imitation — High color — Artificial flavors and sophistications— Origin of the practice, and necessity for its discontinuance 161 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XXII. — Of the Adulteeation of Wines. Temptation and facility for the praetioe of fraud — Brandy and sweetness the grand agents — Mode of discovering counterfeit winea — Spiirions Champagne — ^Port — Foreign imitations 168 CHAPTEE XXIII.— Of the Fining and Boitlino of Wdtes. Principle of fining — Eussian isinglass and whites of eggs — Effects and design — Mode of operation — ^To test the brilliancy of wine — ^Period for hottling — Security against pricked wines 174 CHAPTER XXIV.— Of the PoBOHAsiNCf of Wines. DHBoulty of choosing — ^Pretension in taste — ^Merit of some wines founded on fashion and caprice — The best means of procuring good wine — ^Perfect taste a rare gift — Wine should be chosen for intrinsic merit, not for name, brand, vintage, age, nor cheapness — Security against being imposed upon 179 CHAPTEE XXV. — Of the Peopeetos, Uses, and Effects OF Wines, Oenanthio ether — Sugar — Alcohol — Acid — Tartrates — Color — ^Bou- quet — ^Aroma — ^Use and abuse — ^President Jefferscn — ^Doctor Sigmond — Doctor Adam Clarke — The Romans — Effects of wine dependent upon quality, quantity, and the necessity existing for its use — Indigestibility induced by mingling sev- eral sorts — Singular effect of some wines — ^Effects of wine used in moderation 184 CHAPTEE XXVI.— Of the Dietetic and Medical Quali- ties OF Wines. The mission of Bacchus — ^Deplorable effects of the abuse of wine — ^Influence on national character — ^Partiality of the Muses to its temperate use — Danger of yielding to its fascination — ^De- lightful poison — General medical effects described — Particular effects of Claret, Champagne, Burgundy, Port, Claret, Sheriy, Madeira, Vins de Liqueur, Hock 199 CHAPTEE XXVII.— Of the Aet of DEnmiNa Wine. Intemperance not induced by pure wine — The abuse, not the use of wine condemned — Art of drinking wine — Mode practised Xll CONTENTS. by different nations— Wines at public and private entertain- ments — The Frenob mode usually adopted— Wine glasses and cups— The object of taking wine— The true enjoyer— The abuser of it — Moderation the only safety 216 CHAPTER XXVni.— MisoEiLAuiES. Icing wine — Coffee after wine — ^Bumper glass — Wassail bowl — Pledging and drinking healths— Hip ! Hip I Hurrah ! 22S CHAPTER XXIX.— Wine Pbovekbs and Sayings 231 CHAPTER XXX. — Of the Wdjis or the Ancienis. Description of the most celebrated — Maturing — ^Designation of vintages — ^Purchasing — Wine vessels — Wine cups — Modes of drinking — ^Banquets — Dinner arrangements — Libations to the gods — Chaplets and garlands — Pledging and drinking healths — ^Euler of the feast — Order in using wines — similarity in an- cient and modem convivial customs 237 Alcoholic Strength of Wines 261 Index of Wines 268 List of all the known Wines and the Countries in which Pboduoed 265 Foreign Spmrra 299 LiQUECES. — Introduction and invention — Absynthe — Alkermes — Anisette — ^Cura<;oa — Kirschenwasser — ^Maraschino de Zara — Noyeau — ^RataQa 313 List of all the known Alcoholic Liqcoes and the Counthies IN which Psoduoed 821 HAND-BOOK OF WINES. CHAPTER I. OF THE VIBTE. REGIONS OF CULTURE — CLIMATE — LATITUDE AND ELEVATION — COUNTRIES IN WHICH MOST PRODUCTIVE — CAUSES THAT IN- FLUENCE DIFFERENCE IN QUALITT — PRIMITIVE SEAT — NATU- RAL AND ARTIFICIAL DISTRIBUTION — DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANT — SUPERIORITY AND DISTINCTION ABOVE ALL OTHERS — INTRODUCTION INTO EUROPE — SOILS AND SITES MOST FAVORABLE — INNUMERABLE VARIETIES — MODES OF TRAINING, PRUNING AND CULTURE — LONGEVITY — FRUITFULNESS — USE- FULNESS — SUPERSTITIOUS APPLICATIONS. The regions of culture for the vine do not lie parallel to the equator, but in an oblique direction from north- east to southwest, from about 35° to 52° north lati- tude. In the inland parts of France and Germany, the utmost limits of it are about 49° or 50°, but the further north the produce is the more inferior. It is thought that the climate most congenial to the culture of the vine extends from the 35th to the 50th degree of north latitude; and it is between 1 THE VINE. these points that the most celebrated vineyards, and the countries richest in wines are placed. In some places, as the Crimea and the southern parts of Eussia, it does not exceed 47° or 48° of lati- tude. In Asia the vine does not flourish in a higher latitude, since none are to be found to grow more northerly than Astracan and the foot of Mount Cau- casus. In the new world, the southern States are the most congenial to the vine, and the northern seem unfriendly to its culture. It is true that the vine is found considerably to the north of this con- tinent ; but it is stunted and impoverished in growth in proportion to its distance from a certain latitude, generally that of 37°. The vine appears to occupy two belts on the earth's surface, both of which lie in the warmer re- gions of the temperate zones, seldom exceeding 51° in the northern, and rarely approaching 40° in the southern hemisphere, and is chiefly confined to an elevation of 2,460 feet above the level of the sea. In Switzerland this elevation is limited to 1,760 feet ; in Hungary to 900 feet ; on the Alps to 2,000 feet ; in Teneriffe to 2,500 feet; but in the Apennines and Sicily the extent is 3,000, while it does not grow at all in the high lands of tropical America ; yet according to Jacquemont, in his journey to India, the vine prospers at the height of 10,000 feet above the level of the sea ; but much of this diver- sity depends on ordinary circumstances. It seems, however, that the produce of the vine attains a maximum in the south of Europe and the western THE VINE. 8 parts of Asia. This, perhaps, may be owing, not so much. to climate, as to the superior state of cultiva- tion bestowed upon it. The higher the latitude, the more inclined to acidity is the grape ; hence the difference between the Ehenish, Sicilian, and Gre- cian wines. The strength is also influenced by the proximity to the equator, for which reason, Madeira wine is stronger than that of northern latitudes. Considering these relations to be correct, it is evident that it is not altogether on temperature or climate, but to other causes, the success in the culti- vation of the vine, as regards both quality and quantity, must be attributed. If the growth of the vine depended upon temperature, then the vicinity of London would afford better vineyards than that of Zurich or Geneva : the summer heat of Moscow is higher than that of Paris, yet grapes in the former ripen only under glasses. In Madeira and the Canary Islands, the mean temperature is not much lower than in Algiers and Cairo ; yet the culture of the vine is very considerable in these islands, whereas in Algiers the temperature already is too high, and in Cairo, the vine is planted only for the sake of its shade. The vine frequently occurs wild in the Caucasus and the islands of the Levant, and though every thing combines to point out these and the western portions of Asia as its original home, yet to deter- mine its primitive seat is still more difficult than its artificial distribution. That it came from the Bast there is no reason to doubt, yet the name of him 4 THE VINE. who first cultivated it from the wild plant is lost in the oblivion of past time, unless the mention of Noah in holy writ may be supposed to fix the name of the discoverer, prior to the Dionysius of the Greeks, or the Bala Eama of the Hindoos. Alexander the Great found the wild vine on the banks of the Hydas- pes. The mountains of Ferdistan, in Persia, it is very probable, supplied the vines which were first amelio- rated by man ; the wine of Shiraz is still made of vines grown upon these hills. The wild creeper with its harsh fruit is general in the East. In America up- wards of seventy kinds of wild vine are known. From Egypt, Palestine, or Asia Minor, into the Greek islands, the transition of the vine was natural, as well as from the islands to the mainland of Greece, and then along the shores of the Mediterranean to the Straits of Hercules. Vines were cultivated in France before the time of the Caesars ; first, it is believed, at Marseilles. They were found both there and at N ar- bonne, when Julius Csesar conquered Gaul. The grape which gives the rich wines of Froutignan, Lunel and Eivesaltes, is traditionally asserted to have been imported into that country from the East, as late as the twelfth century, during the crusades, out of Palestine or the island of Cyprus. The vine was introduced into Germany later; the first vineyards being on the Rhine, in a cleared portion of the Black Forest. The vine is a variable plant ; the leaves more or less lobed, smooth, pubescent or downy ; flat or crisp ; pale or deep green ; the branches prostrate, THE VINE. 5 climbing, or erect, tender or hard; the bunches loose or compact, ovate or cylindrical ; the berries red, yellow or purple, watery or fleshy, globose, ovate or oblong ; sweet, musky or austere ; seeded or seedless. It is universally admitted to be the most fruitful and valuable of all plants ; among the Orientals it is preferred to every other, not only on account of its fruit, but the delightful arbour which it forms during the heat of the day ; the Jews con- sidered it the most noble of plants, for which reason it is frequently used by the prophets to represent the Jewish nation ; but the greatest honor that has ever been put upon this tree was when our Saviour de- clared, " I am the true Vine." Although the vine does not show a preference for any particular soil, yet limits for its cultivation seem to have been prescribed by nature which no ingenu- ity of man can surmount. A stony or gravelly soil is best adapted for the successful cultivation of the vine, as it allows the roots to penetrate freely in all direc- tions, while a suf&cient degree of moisture reaches them, and they are protected from the scorching in- fluence of the sun by the stratum of pebbles or debris which forms the surface, and which, in the colder climates, may be useful in reflecting the heat toward the branches and fruit of the plant. Volcanic soils are eminently adapted for the growth of the vine, and all wines produced from these soils, are in most respects superior in body and flavor to those grown upon any other. The best wines of Italy are produced in the neighborhood of Vesuvius; the 6 THE VINE. famous Tokay wine is also made in a volcanic dis- trict ; Madeira, and some of the richest wines of the south of France are derived from such soils ; Her- mitage is grown among the d6bris of granite rocks, so is also Val de Penas, a celebrated Spanish wine, alleged to be one of the finest red wines in the world. However, the chief consideration is to find a soil sufficiently porous, and, at the same time, re- taining but little moisture ; and for this purpose, almost every combination of earths and rocks will answer. The most favorable situation for a vineyard is upon a rising ground or hill, facing the southeast, sheltered from the cold winds and frosts, and the situation should not be too confined — " apertos, Bacchus amat coUes." Bacchus loves the sunnv hills Although a south-eastern aspect is esteemed the best position for a vineyard, yet this rule is not without exceptions, for some of the best wines of Champagne are grown in a northern aspect; and several of the finest vineyards of Burgundy lie towards the east ; but in such cases, we may fairly presume that these apparent disadvantages of situa- tion are counterbalanced by favorable peculiarities of the soil, or other unknown circumstances. The varieties of the vine are very numerous. CffAPTAL, when Minister of the Interior, collected in THE VINE. the nursery of the Luxembourg upwards of' four- teen hundred sorts, from the different provinces of France, of which, about one thousand appear worthy of a particular description ; and Don Simon Eoxas Clemente, to whom we are indebted for the most scientific work on the subject, enumerates about two hundred and fifty varieties, as cultivated in the kingdom of Andalusia alone. In the Grironde seven varieties are grown for white wines alone. The pineau and its varieties afford the wines of Burgundy and Champagne. There are eighteen varieties of this plant. Her- mitage is now produced from the Scyras, or Shiraz grape, supposed to have been originally Persian, the grape of Shiraz being the finest in the world The Cote Rotie comes from the serine. In Madeira there are many varieties of the vine, the Verdeilho seems to recall the French verdot. They have also a species called tinto, from the Spanish tintilla, and Sercial, from the Hock grape. The grape of Candia was planted there from the East. A French grape from near Orleans produces, on the Rhine, the best German wines. The modes of planting, of training, and of prop- ping the vine, which vary in different countries, and, above all, the methods of pruning it, have a great effect on its produce. The fruit of high vines never ripens so well as that of such as are trained low, which receive the benefit of the reflected as well as the direct solar rays, and of the warm exhalations that ascend from the earth. In those districts where 8 THE VINE. the culture of the plant is best understood, it is sel- dom allowed to rise higher' than two or three feet : at Tokay, it is cut and formed into a pollard, at a span from the ground ; and in general it may be es- tablished as a maxim, that the nearer its branches are to the soil, provided they do not come in contact with it, the better wUl be the fruit produced. Where it is permitted to grow without check, it will ascend to the top of the highest trees, and distribute its shoots in all directions, but the grapes which it bears will become proportionally bad, and the wine pre- pared from them will be hard and austere ; for the greater the quantity of fruit, the worse the quality will prove. Even in the southern provinces of France, when the vine is allowed to exceed two metres in height, it gives a wine of little value or durability. There are few plants more likely to deteriorate by neglect or mismanagement than the vine. A single year of slovenly culture, an injudicious mode of pruning, or the substitution of new plants for old, may ruin the reputation of a vineyard for ever. The age to which the vine bears well is from sixty to seventy years, or more ; and in the common course of things, it is six or seven years before it is in full bearing. In part of the Gironde, the vine does not bear well beyond forty years. In others on a sandy or stony soil, it will live and bear well to one hundred and fifty or more. Bosc says a vine in Bur- gundy had reached four hundred years, and in some THE VINE. 9 Italian vineyards plants three centuries old still flourish and bear. The ancients gave the vine a longevity of six hundred years. The fruitfulness of the vine is almost fabulous. In Spain, vines have been seen to bear upwards of two thousand bunches of grapes ; the vine in the garden of Hampton Court Palace, in England, bore, one year, 2,500 bunches, and at Hanover, in Penn- sylvania, a vine, in the year 1840, bore four thou- sand bunches. There is no part of the vine which is not adapted for some useful purpose. In Switzerland, the leaves of the vine are applied to medicinal or surgical uses. In cuts and green wounds they are esteemed a sove- reign remedy. Decoctions of the juice of the leaves are used in poultices with great advantage. The leaves afford an agreeable tea, requiring more sugar than that of China ; and it is said greatly strengthens the nerves. The prunings well bruised and pressed, yield excellent vinegar. The leaves and tendrils bruised, and the juice fermented, give a pleasant light drink of a vinous character. The leaves are also excellent food for cows, sheep, and hogs, when other food is scarce ; but they are of so much more importance in the vineyard, that they are rarely spared for the purpose. In such cases they must not be taken until they begin to fall off. They are then gathered, put in a dry place, and sometimes salted, pressed, and left to ferment. In some places they are stratified with straw, and then afford still more excellent fodder. Animals are sometimes 10 THE. VINE. turned into the vineyards, after the vintage, to browse upon the leaves. Vine branches furnish potash and salt when burned ; basket work is fabri- cated from them ; and the bark is used for bands to tie the vines to the props. The ink for printing the notes of the Bank of England is made from the calcined leaves and seeds of grapes, and forms one of the finest and darkest imprints that can be found. That a plant so useful has its superstitious appli- cations, need be matter of no surprise. Not only do the leaves decorate the hair of. the village girls, in some of the southern vine countries, but the mode of plucking them under certain spells, is thought to discover to the vintage lasses the truth or falsehood of their lovers. CHAPTER II. F THE GRAPE. ERRONEOUS OPINIONS OF ITS PROPERTIES — SIZE — FLAVOR DERIVED FROM THE SOIL — QUALITIES DETERMINED BY VARIETIES OF THE PLANT, SOIL AND SITUATION — FLAVOR PRODUCED BY DEGREES OF PRESSURE — EXTRAORDINARY SIZE — DIETETIC AND RESTORATIVE PROPERTIES. The grape is considered one of the most delicious, valuable, and esteemed fruits. Its origin and use have been coeval with creation. Milton seems to have entertained the opinion that it was the fruit of which our first parents had eaten, when he says, " Soon as the force of that fallacious fruit, That with exhilarating vapor bland About their spirits had played, and inmost powers Made err, was now exhaled." The ancient Rabbins held similar views ; the vine being considered by them as the tree so strictly pro- hibited by the Almighty. Doctor Lightfoot and other theologians were of the same belief; but these statements are deserving of little consideration, it being well known that the juice of the grape has 12 THE GBAPE. no inebriating quality, and that to produce intoxi- cation, it must undergo fermentation. The grape differs in size, flavor, and color ; some- times it is globular or oval in form; sometimes large and sweet in taste, while there are varieties almost as small as a pea, of a harsh, crabbed, disagreeable flavor ; the color also differs very much, from a rich violet to a jet black, or a white, green, or golden hue; the color is wholly in the skin, the pulp of every kind of grape, save one variety, having the same internal hue. The general qualities of the fruit are the same in all countries ; they only vary in degree as the action of the sun in a genial climate matures more or less those virtues upon which the excellence of the juice depends. The flavor of the grape is influenced to a great degree by the soil on which the vine grows, and from which it derives its nurture ; and it need scarcely be remarked that upon its perfection depends the goodness of the wine. The different qualities are always determined by the species or variety of the vine which produces it ; of some kinds the fruit is naturally hard or rough ; of others it is sweet and mild : some varieties contain much saccharine matter ; in others the mucilaginous extractive principle abounds. Nor can these dis- tinctions be, in all cases, ascertained by the taste ; for two grapes may appear almost equally sweet, and yet on examination present very different constitu- ents. Thus the ripe muscadine grape of Fuencaral was found by Proust to yield 30 per cent, of solid sugar, and the wine which is made from it is always THE GEAPE. 13 very sweet and generous ; but the chasselas of Fon- tainbleau, though an exquisite grape to the palate, aifords very little sugar, and the wine which it fur- nishes is dry and indifferent ; for its sweetness pro- ceeds not so much from the proper sugar of the grape, as from the superabundance of the mucoso- saecharine matter. Of all the fruits, the grape is perhaps the most susceptible of alteration in its nature, from the qual- ities of the soil where it grows : and the immense variety of vines ought probably to be referred to the operation of this cause, rather than to original differences in the species, or to the mode of culture to which they are subjected. In general, as has been before observed, the lighter and more porous soils are best suited to the vine ; for although the plant will shoot up with great vigor, and yield an abundant crop of grapes, in rich and moist ground, yet the excellence of the fruit is commonly in the inverse ratio of the luxariance of the growth. It may be almost superfluous to remark, that the characters of the grape must vary according to the nature of the seasons. In a cold year it will not attain its proper maturity, and will be deficient in flavor and saccharine matter. Hence the wine which it furnishes will be weak and harsh, and liable to ropiness and acescency. When the season is rainy the produce will be increased ; but it will be poor and insipid, and will generally be found to contain a large portion of malic acid, which gives to it a pe- culiar flavor, always most perceptible in those wines 14 THE GKAPB. that are most devoid of spirit. A moderate degree of humidity, however, is essential to the welfare of the vine. In northerly situations, the grape seldom ac- quires a due maturity ; and the wines that are occa- sionally made from it, are weak, acescent, and desti- tute of the generous flavor which distinguishes those produced in more favored regions. In warmer cli- mates, on the other hand, the saccharine matter pre- dominates, and becomes too concentrated to expe- rience a complete decomposition. Wlien the vine is transplanted from a southern to a northern lati- tude, the quality of its fruit soon becomes impaired ; but it improves when carried from a cold to a warm climate. The chasselas of Fontainbleau is believed to be the progeny of the Cyprus grape, with which Francis I. planted his vineyards of Fontainbleau and Couci ; and one of the richest Malaga wines is furnished by a grape that is said to have originally come from the banks of the Ehine. When a grape is gently squeezed, the sweetest portion of the pulp will be found to be the first which protrudes ; and it is only by increased and continued pressure, that the extractive and more acid contents of the central vesicles and cortical substance will be fdrced out. This explains the reason why the juice which is obtained previously to the treading of the grapes, undergoes little or no fermentation ; and further demonstrates the neces- sity of a full and thorough pressure of the vintage, in order to effect that due admixture of the saccha- THE GRAPE. 15 rine and extractive principles which is essential to perfect fermentation. The size to which the grape attains appears in- credible. Schulz states that near Acre, in Palestine, he saw bunches of grapes that weighed from ten to twelve pounds. At Damascus are found bunches that weigh from twenty to thirty pounds ; and Ma- ritia relates that in Syria he has seen grapes of such extraordinary size, that a bunch of them would be a sufficient load for one man. At Welbeck, in Eng- land, a Mr. Speechley grew a species called Syrian, a bunch of which weighed nineteen and one half pounds, and measured twenty-one inches in length and four and one half feet in circumference. The size of the grape is no criterion of excellence, the larger description generally being inferior in flavor to the smaller, and not adapted for wine making. Grapes when fully ripe and of good quality, are among the most refreshing and healthful of fruits ; they are generally laxative, and in a large quantity somewhat diuretic. In Syria the inspissated juice of ripe grapes is used in febrile and inflammatory complaints. They have been recommended as an article of diet in phthisis, and are particularly wholesome and restorative when eaten with the morning dew upon them; hence in many wine countries they are regularly served up at breakfast, not only as a zest but as a luxury. At Vevay, in Switzerland, the physicians of Geneva order patients to subsist, during the vintage, altogether on a grape diet, the period of which is usually three weeks ; 16 THE GEAPE. this regimen is termed " Cure de Eaisins." The com- mon daily allowance is seven pounds of grapes without taking any other sort of sustenance, not even a drink of any description. Numerous instan- ces are on record of persons suffering from consump- tion and other diseases, having been perfectly re- stored ; and in cases of insanity, the same regimen is said to be very ef&cacious in restoring the patient to a sound state of mind. The renovating power of the grape must therefore be a matter worthy of investigation and research by the medical faculty. During the year 1850 a grape diet was prescribed by the medical advisers of the Empress of Eussia for the recovery of her health. CHAPTER III. OP THE VINTAGE. THE FIRST WINE GROWER — ABUNDANCE OF THE EASTERN VINE- YARDS THE VINTAGE AN ANCIENT JUBILEE — VINTAGE AT XEEEZ — PERIOD FOR GATHERING THE GRAPE- — VINTAGE OPER- ATIONS IN PRANCE, HALT, SPAIN AND PORTUGAL — MODES OF PRESSING THE GRAPES AND FERMENTATION — WINE MADE WITHOUT PRESSING — MUST, ITS VALUE AND USE — MURK, ITS USEFUL PURPOSES AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES. The art of expressing and fermenting the juice of the grape appears to have been practised from the remotest antiquity. The sacred writings tell us that Noah planted a vineyard soon after the deluge {Qen. ix. 20), and a modern Latin poet ingeniously repre- sents the vine as a gift from Heaven, to console mankind for the miseries entailed upon them by that grand catastrophe I " Omnia vastatis ergo quum cemeret arvis Besolata Deus,-nobis felicia vini Dona dedit ; tristes hominutn quo munere fovit Beliquias mundi solutus vite ruinam." Pradium Ruslicum, lib/xi. When G6d looked down from heaven's high throne On all the earth in ruin laid, 2 18 THE VINTAGE. No fields with smiling plenty strewn No verdant hill, no fertile glade, Lo ! Man, God's brightest work was sad, No sun was given on him to shine ; But with one gift God made man glad, Repairing ruin with the vine. In following the course of Scripture narrative it appeps that as the descendants of Noah increased, the vine, as supplying the means of a more comfortable subsistence, was cultivated to a considerable extent. Palestine early abounded in excellent vineyards; so great was their number that, of the simple inherit- ance belonging to the tribe of Judah alone (in order to denote the superabundant produce), it was meta- phorically said, that he washed his garments in wine, and his clothes in the blood of the grape ; and it is fur- ther added that the land of Canaan was abundant in wine and vineyards. In all wine countries the general vintage or grape harvest takes place during the months of September and October, and is usually a period of great rejoi- cing and festivity. The vineyard then presents a lively and animated scene, all are busily employed ; " Some to unload the fertile branches run, Some dry the blackening clusters in the sun. Others to tread the liquid harvest join ; The groaning presses foam with floods of wine." The vintage is immemorially an ancient jubilee, of which, when, as is rarely the case, there is no joyous celebration, the toil of the laborer becomes doubly THE VINTAGE. 19 onerous, the bosoms usually cheerful are oppressed, and the gripe of poverty clutches its toil-worn victims with redoubled violence. " At Xerez in Spain it is the all-absorbing, all-en- grossing moment of the year ; it commences about the 20th September and occupies about a fortnight ; into these brief moments the hearts, bodies, and souls of men are condensed ; even Venus, the queen of neighboring Cadiz, and who, during the other three hundred and fifty-one days of the year, allies herself willingly to Bacchus, is now forgotten. Nobles and commoners, merchants and priests, talk of nothing but wine, which then and there monopolizes man, and js to Xerez what the water is to Grand Cairo, when the rising of the Nile is at once a pleasure and a profit."* The proper moment for gathering the grape is agreed to be when the pellicle is thin and transparent, not breaking easily between the teeth ; when the color is deep ; if the grape be white, when it takes a gray tint; if red, when it puts on a dark color, or if violet, a deep black. The stems of the clusters, when they have become in substance like wood, los- ing: their green hue, and resembling the main branches of the vine in texture is another sign ; and, finally, when from the pendent cluster the grape gives way readily ; the fruit, particularly in the south, being al- lowed to shrivel up by the sun's action, if required for the sweet and luscious wines. The time of the vintage being fixed, the * Forde. 20 THE VINTAGE. gathering is begun as early in the day as pos- sible after the sun has dissipated the dew, and is conducted with as much rapidity as possible, if the weather continues fair, so as to terminate the pressing in one day. If this cannot be done, the vintage is suspended ; for the fermentation in a warm or even moderate temperature, is far more energetic than in cold weather. It ruins the durability of the wine if the fruit is gathered and fermented at such a time. In some parts of Spain the vintage lasts for several weeks, so as to ensure maturity to all the grapes. In some countries the clusters are cut off the plant with a knife; in France the scissors are used, and in ruder countries, the hand only is applied, a mode in- jurious to the grape as well as to the vine. In the better vine districts, the grapes are plucked from the bunches ; in the others, placed entire in the press, stems and all. The astringent principle lodged in the stenis is thought to be beneficial, and to^ impart to the wine a capacity of endurance. The vintage operations in France are conducted with more attention and regard to cleanliness than in any other wine country ; and the treatment of the fruit at the vintage is more or less agreeable to Science, in proportion as the wine made is in demand beyond the limits of local consumption ; they usual- ly make three separate gatherings of the fruit. The first includes all the finest and ripest bunches ; all dry, spoiled, unripe or rotten grapes, or such as have been eaten into by insects, are cleared from the clus- THE VINTAGE. 21 ters. The second gathering implies naturally a second pressing ; the grapes are not quite as ripe as for the first pressing. The last gathering and press- ing consist ■ of the inferior grapes. The gathered fruit is deposited as lightly as possible in a basket or wooden vessel, and removed' with great carQ to pre- vent its being bruised;; otherwise, in making white wines from colored grapes, it is apt to impart a red or purple color to the wine. In making red wines, the grapes must be bruised or trodden, to disengage the color from the skin; after treading they are thrown into the vat, the color disengages itself, and then the press is applied to the murk. In Italy and the remote parts of Spain, Portugal, and other wine countries, nothing can be more rude and unscientific than the wincmaking ; no pains are taken, no selection is made. The fruit as^ thrown in- discriminately into the vat, the black with the.^hite, the sound with the decayed grapes, and all refining operations left to the fermentation of nature. The Xerez vineyards in the vicinity of Cadiz, those of the Upper Douro in Portugal^ and some few others form- exceptions. In the manufacture of wines, the wine-press is most generally used, of which there are various kinds. When the grapes are placed in the press, it is used gently^ that the wine may not overflow ; the pressure isf' then gradually increased, until the murk is moderately acted upon. This is the first pressing; The grapes which did not sustain pressure, being scattered over the edges of the heap, are now gath- 22 THE VINTAGE. ered up, the press relaxed, and being placed upon the murk, the press is tightened again. The wine from this is called of the second pressing. The edges of the whole mass are now squared with a cutting instrument, so that the mass of fruit is re- duced to the form of an immense oblong cake, upon which the cuttings of the edges are heaped, and the press worked again, which makes wine of the third pressing, or, as the wine makers call it, " wine of the first cutting." The pressing and cutting are re- peated two or three times, and what liquid flows is called among the laborers, " wine of the second or third cutting.'' Last of all, the murk is frequently steeped to make piqiietie, or small wine for the laborers. The wine of the first pressing is always kept apart from the rest, espeoially when the season is hot, and the fruit is ripe. It would be apt to take a red color if mixed with the wine of the second pressing, when it is designed to make white wine. The vats are always cleaned and put in order by the time the vintage commences, in those countries where due regard is had to the character of the wine. The fermentation, carried on in casks in Spain, in France and Germany is effected in vats more or less capacious. The quicker the vinous fermenta- tion is effected, the better the wine. To this end, each vat is filled on the same day, wherever the process is well understood ; but they are not quite filled up, lest the must should ferment over. Vats THE VINTAGE. 23 of a large size are not often employed in cold climates, where the seasons are hazardous, because they take too long a time to fill. In warm climates, the larger the vat the more active is the fermentation. There is one species of wine made without beat- ing, treading or pressing, this is what they call in Spain, "hgrima." The grapes, melting with ripeness, are suspended in bunches, and the wine is the pro- duce of the droppings. This can only be effected with the mwscafeZ grape of, the warm South. In this way the richest Malaga ,is made. In Cyprus the grapes are beaten with mallets on an inclined plane of marble, with a reservoir either at the side or at one end. The must of the South of France is employed in making a rich confection with citron and aromatic sweets. The richer pears, apples, prunes, melons, mushrooms, and roots of various kinds, are mashed and mingled with must, boiled down to a syrup, till they are incorporated by methods which it would be foreign to present objects to particularize. The murk, after being taken from the vat, is still rich in must, and is accordingly again submitted to pressure; the product is nearly in quality to that first taken. On the residue of the grapes, the refuse of the vintage, together with the murk, hot water and syrup are thrown, and the product is a very small wine, cooling and pleasant to the palate, fla- vored with peaches, elder for color, and a little Florence iris. This is commonly called piquette, and is given to harvest people and cultivators in the 24 THE VINTAGE. South, during the last burning days of the summer, or rather autumn. The murh is invaluable, and is applied to innu- merable purposes. One hundred and ninety parts of murk burned, furnish five and a quarter of potash. The murk, beaten in water and distilled, produces brandy of a secondary quality. Vinegar is also ex- tracted from the murk acidified. Verdigris is also made from murk. In Germany and France the murk is found to be an excellent food for cattle, on which they fatten with the same facility as those animals do which are fed on the refuse of corn distilleries and breweries ; it is given dry or mingled with fodder, for . if eaten fresh from the vat, it intoxicates and injures them. Fowls are remarkably fond of it, and it is one of the best dressings for the vineyard of any known. The murk, in a state of fermentation, is found to be useful as a bath for rheumatic limbs, by exciting perspiration. It is said to be a specific for the rick- ets used in this way. Fractured limbs placed in a ves- sel of murk, hot from fermentation, for a longer or shorter time as may be necessary, are said to be con- solidated more rapidly than by any other means. It is often dried from the press, and burned where fuel is scarce, being laid up for winter use, exactly like tan, in some parts of England. Messrs. Livenais & Berhardt, chemists, in Paris, have recently discovered that the decomposition of grape skins after the last pressing, and lees of wine, disengages a carbonated hydrogen gas of superior THE VINTAGE. 25 quality. One pound of dried grape skins, placed in a white-hot retort, furnished, in less than seven minutes, three hundred and fifty quarts of excellent hydrogen gas. The gas burns with a brilliant white flame, is without odor, and emits little smoke in comparison with that produced from pit coal and rosin. CHAPTER IV. OF FERMENTATION. PEIMAET CAUSE UNKNOWN — TEMPEKATUKE — PRINCIPLE — PKO- CESS — TIME HEQUIRED — COLOR — ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS — SECONDARY FERMENTATION — PRECIPITATION AND INVISIBLE FERMENTATION. The primary cause of fermentation, like that of other chemical- agencies, will probably always re- main hidden from our view ; and an approximation to the truth, is the most that can be expected on such a subject; we must rest satisfied with the knowledge of the principal conditions on which it depends; and by which the qualities of its pro- ducts are influenced. Nor can our acquaintance with any of the great operations of nature be said to be more complete. The temperature most favorable to vinous fer- mentation, appears to be the sixty-fifth degree of Fahrenheit. Below that degree it is languid ; above it becomes violent; and, at a very high, or very low temperature, it will no longer take place. The great principle, without which vinous fer- mentation cannot be perfected, is the saccharine FERMENTATION. 27 matter ; yet this principle will remain inactive, unless it be combined with other vegetable matter in due quantity to effect the result desired. A relative proportion of sugar must combine with the substan- ces thus necessary. When the must, or juice which is obtained by the pressure of ripe grapes, is exposed to the tem- perature of 65° of Fahrenheit's ' scale, it speedily begins to ferment; small bubbles first collect on the top, and may be seen gradually issuing from the central parts of the liquor, and buoying up the husks, stones, and other grosser matters which it contains ; as the disengagement of gas proceeds, a hissing noise is produced by the bursting of the bubbles, and a frothy crust or scum is formed by the viscid particles which they have carried to the surface, called by the French the chapeau. An in- crease of the temperature and bulk of the ferment- ing mass now takes place; the mitst loses its original consistency, and its saccharine taste, acquiring a deeper color and vinous flavor, with an odor of spirit of wine, which becomes more perceptible as the pro- cess advances. At length these commotions of the fluid abate spontaneously ; and after a few days, and sometimes after a few hours of rapid fermentation, the ebullition ceases altogether, the mass subsides to its former bulk; and the crust and solid particles which disturbed the transparency of the liquor, are precipitated to the > bottom of the vessel. The time necessary to complete the fermentation differs according to the quality and ripeness of the 28 FERMENTATION". grapes, the species of plant, the soil, and the temper- ature of the vineyard. In some places in France, as in Burgundy, the •must remains in the vat from six to thirty hours only. Near Lyons it is left six or eight days, or even as many as from twelve to twenty ; in the southeast from twenty-five to forty. At Narbonne it is frequently kept for seventy days, and the fermentation being over, the wine clarifies in the vat, in contact with the Btalks, which add strength to it. It appears that the head, daily acquir- ing greater consistency, at length completely excludes the atmospheric air, and the wine is deemed secure. This usage it must be unsafe to depend upon ; there is a great hazard to the wine in the practice. In Portugal about seventy or eighty hours may be the average of fermentation ; in Spain from four to five days, varying according to the temperature. In Germany the stalks are rarely suffered to remain during fermentation ; in Portugal always, and in Spain too this is generally the practice. In regard to color it may be necessary to remark, that some of the most perfect wines in that respect, as well as in delicacy of taste, remain only six hours in the vat. Time, in fermentation, does not add to the depth of color, the bruising of the skins alone imparts it. Sugar, vegetable extract, tartarous and malic acid, and water, are essential ingredients in the com- position of wine ; and as they vary in quantity in the fruit, different results are produced on the must un- dergoing fermentation. The vegetable extract, or rEBMENTATIOlT. 29 leaven, is a principle plentiful in wheat, and bears the character of albumen, in which azote is also as- certained to be present. If on fermentation a good- proportion of tartar does not appear, a dry wine will not be the product ; for in the rich luscious wines there is the smaller quantity of tartar, the great richness of the grape occasioning the saccharine matter to be in excess. This difference in the fruit is caused by the climate and sun, and the excessive ripeness of the grape, even to the shrivelling of the skin in some cases. Thus the rich sweet grape of the climate of Malaga, in which sugar abounds, as may be expected, produces a wine very different from Burgundy, where the tartaric and saccharine principles are nearly on an equality. In the Malaga wine the sugar is not all decomposed in fermentation ; in Burgundy it, is wholly so. ; The saccharine matter is in dry wines wholly changed by fermentation into spirit, or alcohol, from simple vinous fermentation. This is most probably not the case with the luscious wines, or they would.be much more- spirituous than they are. The second fermentation in the cask is a minia- ture repetition of that in the vat. A precipitation then takes place, and the wine is afterwards racked. A third, called the insensible fermentation, continues for a long period after the wine appears as perfect as art can make it. Time, which mellows the harshness of the wiue, blends more intimately the component parts, while all extraneous matter and the tartar are thrown down, adhering to the sides of the cask. CHAPTER V. OF WINE. DIFFERENT FKOM OTHER FERMENTED BEVERAGES — CAUSES OF THE EXTREME VARIETY IN SPECIES AND QUALITY — MODES OF OBTAINING DIFFERENT KINDS — COLOR DERIVED FROM THE SKIN OF THE GRAtE — DIVISION OF RED AND WHITE — STILL— DRY — SPARKLING — SWEET — STRONG — WEAK — THREE KINDS MADE FROM ONE SPECIES OF GRAPE. Wine differs essentially from spirit, tte former being fermented, and the latter distilled. It may be made of the juice of all plants, the sap of trees, the infusions and decoctions of farinaceous vegetables, the milk of frugivorous animals ; and lastly, it may be made of all ripe and succulent fruits. But of all substances susceptible of fermentation, none is capa- ble of being converted into so good wine as the juice of the grape. Correctly speaking, the term wine is restricted to the produce of the vine, as no fruit but the grape contains tartarous acid or its combinations in suffi- cient quantity for making wine — other fruits contain malic acid. According to Scheele and Braconnot, there is no other acid in the grape than the tartaric. WINE. 31 The extreme variety in the species of wine is caused by the variety of vines, combined with the difference of soil, climate, mode of preparation, &c. It would not be easy to make the reader compre- hend the minute distinction between one variety of vine and another, by any description of the pen, nor is it easy to determine what particular circum- stances cause those alterations in the nature of the vine which occasion its varieties; and yet we know that between places immediately contiguous to each other, and where even a careful observer would hardly remark any difference, the qualities of the wine, though produced from the same species of grape, and treated in the same way, are often very different. A great deal evidently depends upon the aspect of the vineyard, as the superior flavor of wines grown on the sides of hills, compared with those raised on the plain, is universally admitted; and it is certain also that a good deal depends upon peculiarities of soil. But whatever may be the cause, it is well known that there are wines raised in some limited districts, such as Tokay, Constantia, Cyprus, Johannisberg, the best Burgundy, Cham- pagne and Claret, that no art or care has hitherto succeeded in producing of equal goodness in other places. In illustration of this we may adduce the growth of the celebrated Mont-Eachet wine. The insulated part towards the top of the hill, fur- nishes the wine called Chevalier Mont-Eachet, which is less esteemed, and sells at a much lower price, than the delicious wine grown on the middle 32 WINE. beiglit, called true Mont-Eachet. Beneath this dis- trict and in the surrounding plains, the vines afford a far inferior quality, called Batard Mont-Eachet. The opposite side also produces a very indifferent wine. Similar differences, in a greater or less de- gree, are observed relatively to the districts which grow the Pomard, Volnay, Beaune, Nuits, Clos de Vougeot, Chambertin, Eomande, where it is found that the reverse side of the hill, the summit and the plain, although generally .consisting of like soil, afford inferior wine to the middle and southern slopes. This cause appears inexplicabla unless one portion of the vines draws its nourishment from a stratum which the others do not reach, and thus a different quality attaches to the fruit from some- thing whiot it obtains from its own peculiar sources. Wines differ much from one another in the re- spective proportion of their constituents. These va- riations depend partly on original differences, partly on difference of climate, cultivation, growths and vintages, partly on difference of management before and after fermentation, and sometimes upon express additions being made to alter the flavor ; the time of the year when the vintage is collected, the pre- paration of the grapes previously to their being trodden and pressed, and the various manipulations and processes adopted in their fermentation, all tend to determine the character of the wines produced ; at the same time we must remember that in all pure unbrandied wines of the first growth, the difference WINE. 33 between one and another is rather that of the seasons and vintages, than the effect of any other cause. The following astute remarks present a correct exposition of this subject : " A considerable period must elapse before any vintage can be pronounced upon. It has happened, more than once, that the wines of certain years began to be appreciated only when there were but small portions remaining. " It is generally allowed that it is much easier to judge of the white wines than the red;'even from the vintage. In the red, present taste requires a perfect equilibrium of different opposite properties, which mutually counteract each other; such as body, a finfe color, and perfect maturity; together with an agreeable flavor, smoothness, and an exquisite per- funie. But with respect to the white, all that is re- quired of them is, that they should possess body and strength. " For red wines to succeed to perfefction, they require a very rare succession of changes of temper- ature : now warm, to ripen the grapes ; and now dry, to stop the sap. But after all, the wine will sometimes deceive the judgment of the most subtle connoisseurs, of which many Bordeaux merchants are examples ; and many years which have since been highly esteemed, had been preceded by summers so unfavorable as to cause proprietors to despair of their vintage. Such were the years 1819 and 1828; even in 1834, no proprietor expected to make so good a wine. Moreover, among the best vines the diversity' of 3 34 WINE. qualities is very great : some giving a delicate wine, but of a weak color, others having more body ; these being distinguished for their color, those for their softness. It is therefore necessary to choose, among these different qualities, a suitable proportion to make a perfect wine. But, in spite of this choice, as these several plants bloom, develope and ripen, at different periods, it will almost always happen that one will predominate to the detriment of the others. To these causes must be attributed the very different success of the same cxu during several years, or that of two crus of the same class in the same year." — Bordeaux and its Wines, by G. Cocks. If it be the object of the grower to obtain a dry and full flavored wine, he will gather the grapes as soon as they have acquired their proper maturity, and before they begin to shrink or wither on the stalk ; or if he wish to have a very brisk wine, he may collect them before they are perfectly ripe : but if a sweet wine be desired, he will postpone the vin- tage to the latest possible period. This option, however, is left him only in those countries where the fruit of the vine ripens very early ; for, in more northern climates, the grapes must frequently be gathered in a green state, otherwise they will rot on the stalks. In some vineyards the grapes are suffered to remain exposed to the sun till they become half dried ; in others they are gathered when ripe, and spread to dry upon straw; by which means the juice acquires a higher degree of consistence and richness. WINE. 35 The stalks of the grapes when added to the mvst^ operate as a powerful leaven, and augment the sti!ength of the wine ; but.to; the weaker sorts they are apt to comniunicate a harsh and austere flavor, in consequence of the tannin and extractive matter which they contain. In the preparation of Port wines they are always used, but are excluded in the case of all the more delicate red wines — where the saccharine principle predominates they must contri- bute to the strength of the wine, but not otherwise. The color of the wine is derived from the skin of the grape ; for the juioe of red or black grapes, when fermented, without, the hulls, giyes a wine equally colorless as that which is procured from white grapes. To this rule, however, the Tent or Tinto grape ■ furnishes an exception, baving the col- oring matter diffused through the- pulp — a light or deep tinge maybe communicated to the wine accord- ing to the degree of pressure used on the grapes, but it is only by a complete fermentation of the skin with the fruit that the full color is extracted. Wines are divided Intp.two principal -classes, red and white. White wines are of an amber color, more or less deep,. The generality of, white wines are made from white , grapes, i but some are from black ones, the skins of which are carefully kept*from im- parting their color. The varieties of wines are also innumerable, and they are divided according to their sensible qualities, their leading coilstituents, or their commercial re- sources, and may be classed as still or dry, sparkli-ng 36 WINE. and sweet wines ; the first, and most important, may be divided into strong and weak wines ; in the former, are reckoned all wines the produce of Spain, Portu- gal, Madeira, Sicily, &;c. ; the latter, or weak wines, include those of France, Germany, &c. ; the sweet wines are produced in nearly all the wine countries of Europe, excepting Germany. Although every species of grape is suited to making a particular description of wine, yet the grapes of some districts and vineyards, by difference of management during fermentation, will produce sweet, sparkling, and still wines — the sweet wines from these grapes are obtained by stopping the pro- cess of fermentation, at an early stage, while a con- siderable part of the sugar remains unaltered. To produce sparkling wines, the fermentation is more ad- vanced without its being arrested, and the wine, after undergoing peculiar management, is bottled, so that as it continues to ferment it becomes charged with carbonic acid. In still wines, the fermentation is allowed to proceed till the greater part of the sugar has disappeared, and undergoes conversion into al- cohol. Some grapes, especially those grown in the South, andof highly matured fruit, cannot, from the want of tartar, be made dry, but are always sweet, because the proportion of sugar and tartar are out of due relation. It is to the presence of tartar that wine owes its superiority over other fermented beverages. CHAPTER VI. OF WINE. PEINCIPLES WHICH ORIGINATE THE BOUQUET AND AROMA — DIFFI- CULTY OF DISTINGUISHIN& QUALITIES DEFINITION OF THE PROPERTIES — FLAVOR OF NEW AND MATURE WINES — ODOR AND FLAVOR CHIEFLY REFERABLE TO THE SOIL — CAUSES OF ER- RONEOUS DESCRIPTIONS — INGREDIENTS OF WINE — CLASSIC DELINEATION OF PERFECT WINE — PEOPEETIES WHICH CONSTI- TUTE DIFFERENCES COMPARISON OF RED AND WHITE WINES DURABILITY OF FINE WINE AND HOW DISTINGUISHED FROM ORDINARY. The causes which originate the variety of wines and their different grades have been alreafly enumerated and explained. The following remarks will convey to the reader some of the distinguishing peculiarities attached to all pure wines, but more particularly those of the finer kinds. « All wines possess a peculiar aroma or perfume, some are distinguished by a high b^ug^uet and grate- ful aromatic flavor, which often constitiites one of; their most valuable qualities. On what principle this bouquet or aroijia depends, or in what part of the grape it resides, has not as^ yet been satisfactorily 38 WINE. ascertained. Some are of opinion that this property abounds chiefly in the skin of the grape, and sug- gest the expediency of suspending some of the ripest and most odoriferous bunches in the cask, after the fermentation has subsided, in order to heighten the perfume of the wine. A similar prac- tice, indeed, has been long known in the manufac- ture of the vini raspali of the Italians, and the vins rapes of the French. Other wines are distinguished by their rough and astringent taste, which is derived from the hull and in part from the pips of the grape, when allowed to ferment in the vat. These and other differences in the character of wines, may all be traced to peculiarities in the nature and preparation of the grapes from which they are manufactured, or to particular modes of conducting the fermentation. The adoption of terms which other nations em- ploy for the purpose of distinguishing their wines, would not be of much avail to those who are unac- quainted with the wines themselves; such terms could convey' but very imperfect notions of their qualities; and, unless where great correctness and precision can be attained, the resort to a foreign idiom ought to be avoided. If our nomenclature of tastes were much more complete than it is, the flavors* of wine are so varied, and their minuter » It is universally admitted that the flavors of wine are influ- enced by the grape from which it Is made, as the grape is from the soil ; neverthelessj this flavor often varies, from the must entering into new combinations,«as well as from the diflferent modes of mak- ing the same wine by different wine growers. WINE. 39 diiferences and combinations so infinite, that it would still be a very difficult task to designate them with requisite precision. In this perplexity we derive considerable assistance from a reference to the known flavors of other substances, which may be deemed analogous to those of wine, and in describing the varieties of aroma, we draw with equal freedom from the same source. Still there is often something so peculiar in the flavor and perfume of wines, as to baffle our utmost powers of description ; and, indeed, it may be doubted whether one of the principal charms of choice wine does not consist in this uncer- tainty and indistinctness of taste and smell. In the description of the Saprian wine, how inferior an idea should we have formed of its excellence, if the poet had merely ascribed to it a strong scent of the violet, the hyacinth, or the rose, instead of telling us that its smell was a delicious compound of the odor of violets, hyacinths and roses, and that it spread around the fragranoy of nectar and ambrosia. In most wines, it is true, certain tastes predomi- nate ; and these can be easily discriminated when the wine is new. Port, for example, may be called bitter, rough and astringent ; Rhine wines, sharp and acidulous ; Malmsey, bitter-sweet ; but what terms will convey an adequate notion of that peculiar ethereal flavor which distinguishes each of these wines when duly mellowed by age, and which, in fact, is only developed by long keeping— the only satisfactory and intelligent way in which the de- scription can be given, is by a comparison with some 40 WINE. other known sensation of taste, respecting whicli all men are agreed. In like manner, these properties of wine, which we recognize by the organ of smell, — "Foolish deli§^ht, and fond abusions Which do this sense besiege with light illusions," are equally various and diificult of investigation and definition. In general, they bear some analogy to the tastes ; but sometimes tftey are essentially differ- ent. Frequently, also, they become sensible after a long course of years, exalting the other virtues of the wine, and imparting to it a delicacy which it did not before possess. Accordingly in all descriptions of the rarer wines, much stress is laid on such attri- butes, and in certain languages particular terms are appropriated to the designation of them. There can be little doubt that the characteristic varieties of taste and odor, originate chiefly &om peculiarities of the soil where the vines are grown ; for they continue more or less distinct in the pro- duce of particular districts, notwithstanding great differences in the exposure of the vineyards, and in the warmth of the seasons. But it is equally certain that the last-mentioned circumstance has also, a ma- terial influence on these qualities, which are, in truth, of so delicate and inconstant a nature, that they may be said to vary from year to year, there being, per- haps, no two vintages, though collected from the same spot, and managed in the same manner, that will be found completely identical in flavor and wmM. 44 perfume; it is also necessary to add here, that wines of the red class, do not so sensibly retain the taate and odor of the grape from which it is made, as the white wines do. i ,,, .,;,, , ,r As taste and smell reside not in the object them- selves, but in the, senses by which they are perceived, so they are liable to be. modified by the habits and conditipiis of these organs. The difference of tastes in this view'of the subject: is proverbial; and much of the diversity undoubtedly proceeds from the way in which the palate has been exercised. Thus, strong liquors blunt its sensibility, and disqualify it for the perception of the more delicate flavors of the lighter wines. A person accustomed only to bad or ordi- nary wines will often form but a very erroneous esti- mate of the higher grades, and, sometimes, even give the preference to the former. Whole nations may be occasionally misled by this prejudice. A traveller who arrives at the end of his journey exhausted by fatigue and thirst, will be apt to ascribe the most delicious qualities to the first ordinary wine present- ed to him, which, under other, circumstances, he perhaps could have hardly-endured: and a con- tinued use of the inferior wines of one country may lead him to overrate the vinous produce of another. If«»it were possible for an individual to traverse all the wine countries of the globe, and taste all the dif- ferent vintages, still his observations and judgments would be liable to much fallacy, and could be reckon- ed decisive only when confirmed by general report. All wines possess what is called the vinous fla- 42 WINE. vor, originating from the alcohol which they contain, and modified in the different varieties, according to the properties in which that ingredient is combined with the aqueous, acid, saline, mucilaginous, ex- tractive and aromatic principles. In good wine the taste of none of these substances should be predomi- nant; but the whole ought to amalgamate and form a perfect blend, having its distinct and peculiar flavor, which should be full and entire, not cloying on the palate, nor leaving any unpleasant after-taste The following verses may be received as conveying a tolerably correct description of the qualities gener- ally sought for in the more delicate wines : — " Apricus cupio vinum mihi coUibus ortrum MoUe, vetus, fragili prosiliensque vitro ; Quod mioet, et rutilo nitido praeclarius auro, Et cujus morsus saucia linqua probet ; ■ Ora nee ingratus gustantum Isedat amaror, Et gravibus curis pectora pressa levet ; Nee capiti noceat, sed vertice serpat ab ipso, Protinus ad summos perveniatque pedes Si datur hoc vobis, Acheloia pocula longe Ite, salutiferi toxica sseva men." De Protopo—apud Randella de Vinea, Vijtdemia, et Vino. Vsnet 1629. Give me the wine from sunny hills, That's mellow, old and fine, That's clearer than the bubbling rills, Bright as Francisco's mine ; That sparkles in the fragile cup ; That's brisk and soft and dry. Whose flavor in the smallest drop The skilled tongue values high. wiKE. 43 No nauseous bitter wounds the mouth, It lifts the heart on high ; Like balmy aii'sipf sunny south, It softens every sigh. Healthfulljl''flt)ws its ruby stream, Strength floats upon its wave. It stays not one bright joyous beam Which men do well to crave. Far, far away ! thou poisoned cup Of Achelorian wine ; Grant me what lifts the spirit up — On earth this boon be mine. In the manufacture* of certain wines, however, we are sometimes obliged to forego this species of excellence, in order to obtain particular qualities. The virtues of the brisk wines, of Champagne, for example, reside in the carbonic acid gas, which es- capes, in a great measure, when the pressure is with- drawn, by which it was retained in union with the water and mucilage, carrying along with it much of the alcohol and aroma. The grateful properties of sweet wines, oi\ the other hand, depend upon the abundance of saccharine matter which remains un- decottiposed ; and ihe vinous attributes of some of ■the Burgundy wiues are sacrificed in order to pre- serve the high aroma for which they are so justly prized. In some points of view, white wines may be re- garded as more perfect than red wines, at least they appear to contain fewer elements of decomposition. 44 WIKE. The strong red wines, which are fermented with the hulls, and sonaetimeS with the stalks of the grapes, do not attain their high^t excellence until after they have deposited a considerable portion of their tartar and coloring matter ; ^ibut the lighter red wines are generally in perfection before this change takes place ; for when they lose their color, they rapidly alter and pass into a vapid state. White wines, on the other hand, even when of inferior quality, will remain much longer unchanged, prob- ably because they contain less mucilaginous and extractive matter ; and when they have been well fermented, may be preserved for an indefinite length of time. They, however, usually yield to the red in respect to flavor and perfume. Few, if any, of the white wines of France, for instance, can vie in these points with the red growths of the principal vine- yards of Burgundy, Medoc, Gascony, and the Rhone. In Germany, on the other hand, the red wines are seldom so high flavored as the white. The color of red wines varies from a light pink to a deep purple tint, approaching to black. The Olarets hold an intermediate rank between these two extremes. Some white wines are nearly color- less, but the greater portion have a yellow tinge. In perfect wine, the constituents are duly balanc- ed, and if it contains a larger portion of sugar than the leaven which may still exist in it is capable of decomposing, it will Seep an indefinite length of time without experiencing any deleterious change. The fine wines are known from the ordinary, by WINE. 45 their superior flavor, aroma, and body ; they always improve by long keeping, and their excellence ma- terially depends upon the retention of the aroma and bouquet. CHAPTER VII. OF THE "WINES OF FKANOE. INTKODUCTION OF THE VINE — FRANCE THE YINETAKD OF THE EAKTH — THE SUPERIOBITT OF HER WINES ABOVE ALL OTHERS — THEIR VARIETT AND DURABILITY — ^WINE CULTIVATION, ONE OF HER MOST IMPORTANT BRANCHES OF INDUSTRY WINES OF THE GIBONDE — CLARET AND ITS VARIOUS* GROWTHS— GRAVE WINES — GRAND SUMMARY OF THE WINES OF THE GIRONDE CHAMPAGNE — STILL — CREAMING— HIGH SPARKLING — CLASSIC DESCRIPTION OF CREAMING CHAMPAGNE GENERAL OBSERVA- TIONS ON CHAMPAGNE — MANUFACTURE — BURGUNDY AND ITS VARIOUS GROWTHS — CONTROVERSY AS TO THE COMPARATIVE MERITS OF CHAMPAGNE AND BURGUNDY — HERMITAGE — c6TE ROTIE — ROUSrLLON — RIVESALTES FRONTIGNAC — VIN DE FAILLE — ST. PERAI — VIN DE GARDE. The vine was introduced into France by the Phoceans, six hundred years before the Christian era, and it is supposed was first cultivated at Mar- seilles, but there appears to have been no advances in its culture till after the arrival and conquest of the Eomans. France is the vineyard of the earth. Her fertile soil, gentle acclivities, clear sunny skies, and fine summer temperature, place her, in conjunction with her experience, and the advantages of science ap- WINES OF FRANCE. 47 plied to vinification, the foremost in the art of mak- ing the juice which so gladdens, the, human heart. She is able to manufacture within her own limits, every description of wine, from the harsh product of her, Northern provinces, to the luscious Malmsey of the South ; from her delicious Claret, Champagne, and Burgundy, which have no equals, to her rich Lunel and Frontignac, with all the grades of class and quality besides. " The Claret smooth, red as the hp we press In sparkling fancy, while we drain the bowl; The mellow-tasted Burgundy, and, quick As is the wit It gives, the gay Champagne." Thomson. The wines, iOf France, against those of all the earth, may be fairly said ; their effect on the health is grateful and beneficial; They do not, like many other wines, by being too strongly impregnated with brandy, carry disease into the stpmach at the moment of social joy. They cheer and exhilarate, while they fascinate all ' but coarse palates,' with their delicate and delicious flavor. Their variety is great, and they stand upon their own intrinsic merits. Some of the wines of France will keep for a long term of years. Eousillon haS been drank, a century old, and still found in high perfection. Many other kinds are found at fifty and sixty years old to re- main good. The wines of Champagne, Burgundy, and Medoc, are comparatively short-lived, being more delicate and having less body. 48 WIKES OF FRANCE. The cultivation in all the wine districts is agree- ably striking ; and the beautiful vineyards which so charmingly clothe the sides of hills (otherwise barren from not suiting a different purpose in agriculture), with fertility and verdure ; even the rockiest and shallowest lands, from the Moselle to the Mediter- ranean, from the Ehine to the Atlantic, display in this way either the skill or the old prejudices of the people. As a whole, what a picture does this rich country present, flowing with corn, silk, wine, oil and honey I Corn, wine, mulberries and olives, di- viding from north to south the soil which a genial sun warms, and an agricultural population look upon with unfailing joyousness. In other countries, to nature is left almost the sole management of the production of such wines as obtain a celebrity beyond the territory in which they are grown. In Italy and Spain nature has done every thing, and man has generally deteriorated her gifts. One of the first red wines in the world is the Yal de Penas, yet it is'scarcely to be drank beyond Manzanares without the defilement of pitch from the goatskins in which it is carried. In France the slightest foreign taste, scarcely perceptible to the stranger, would not be suffered in th« better classes of wine. The national honor cannot be more scru- pulously watched, than the purity and perfect qual- ity of the fruit of the vintage is regarded- by the better class of vine growers. The consequence is that no wines in the world are its equals. The production of wine constitutes the materials WINES OP FRANCE. 49 of a vast commerce, and ia next to the ordinary busi- ness of agriculture, by far the most extensive and valuable branch of industry in France. It is stated on the best authority that the quantity of wine annually produced in France amounts at an average to one billion one hundred millions of gallons, and its value is not less than two hundred millions of dollars. Upwards of three millions of persons are employed in its production, and about three hundred thousand wine sellers. WINES OF THE GIKONDB. Under the denomination of the wines of the Gironde, are included those of the districts in the vicinity of Bordeaux, in some directions for many leagues in extent. Of all the wines of France these- are most familiar to foreigners beyond the seas, be- ing exported in the largest quantities. The depart- ment of Gironde is part of ancient Gascony, and is rich in the produce of the vine. In the quantity produced, in the variety, in quality and value, it stands the first district in France, and in a commer- cial point of view it is the most important. Ohret. The word Claret is an English corruption ofclairet, which signifies those wines which are red or rose- colored — in all countries except France, this term is applied to the various growths of Medoo and the 4 50 WINES OP FRANCE. Bordelais without any distinction — these growths are also designated " Bordeaux." The soil for the most part on which these wines are grown, is composed of red sand and gravel with a mixture of calcareous loam, in some districts flitit stones of an oval form and a grayish white color are found intermixed. No soil can be more varied in its quality and produce, and this is one chief cause of the variety of grades and flavor in the wines. Yet the quality of the best growths can hardly be referred to the presence of particular soil alone ; for, in the adjoining territory of St. Estephe, the wine of which sells for one-fifth or one-sixth of the price of that of Lafite, the same gravelly soil presents itself. Nor can the superiority of the produce be satisfactorily accounted for by the exposure any more than by the nature of the soil ; for the wine of Branne Mouton which has a similar aspect, and is divided from Lafite by a narrow footpath, sells for one-third The vines are planted about three feet from one another ; and are supported on low frames, formed of upright props, about twelve inches high, and horizontal poles, on which the branches are allowed to extend. Of the districts of the Gironde that of Medoc is the most important of all for its extent, and the quality of its produce. These wines when of a good vintage are celebrated for a beautiful color, a violet perfume, much delicacy, and an extremely agreeable flavor ; they are strong without being heady, com- WINES OP FHANCE. 51 forting without intoxicating, leave the breath pure, and the mouth cool. The number of wines classed in the department are very numerous, — those known by commerce and consumption in this country under the denomination of claret embrace the following, and may be divided into four classes. 1st growth. 2nd growth. 3rd growth. 4th growth. Chateau Lafite, Branne Mouton, BataiUey, St. Julien, Chateau Margaux, Leoville, Becheyville, St. Estephe, Chateau Latour, Larose, Langoa, &o. Cantenac, Chateau HautBrion, Rauzan, &c.. St. Emilion, &c. Chateau Lafite Is the most choice and delicate wine, and is cha- racterized by its silky softness on the palate, and its charming perfume, which partakes of the nature of the violet and raspberry — it is a wine " that may have rivals but na superior." Chateau Margaux Has a sweet bouquet which perfumes the mouth ; it is lighter than the Lafite, possessing all its delicate qualities but not quite so high a flavor. Chateau Latour Has a fuller body, and at the same time a con- siderable aroma, but wants the softness of the Lafite. Haut Brion Has more spirit and body than any of the pre- 52 WINES OF FRANCE. ceding, and requires a longer period to mature, the bouquet savors of the violet and raspberry, and the flavor resembles burning sealing wax. All the other growths partake to some extent the properties of the first growths in bouquet, deli- cacy, and flavor ; when new, these wines are some- what harsh and astringent, but in about five or six years they acquire an agreeable softness and flavor, — the maturity is generally influenced by the quality of the vintage, the wines of some years requiring a longer time to arrive at perfection than others. The excellence of the Medoc or Claret wines is distinguished all over the world, and they unques- tionably rank as the most perfect which France pro- duces, and keep extremely well. Though the quantity of alcohol which the finer sorts contain is inconsidera- ble, yet as the original fermentation is usually very complete, and the subsequent management judicious, they are much less disposed to acidity, and other disorders, than the wines of Burgundy. The red growths are in great demand, and have always fetched higher prices than the white, although the latter generally speaking may be considered more genuine than the red wines, which are too often subjected to various processes by the merchants of Bordeaux, with the view of preparing and adapting them for particular markets ; but this custom of helping the wine relates more particularly to the inferior growths. WINES OF FRANCE. 53 GRAVE WHITE WINES. &i,uterne- Is considered the most superior of these growths ; it is a fine,- delicate, flavory wine, and in good years rich and perfumed. The Clos Yquem and Haut is esteemed the most. Some of this wine has kept well for fifty years. Preignac Is reckoned equal to Sauterne, but with less bouquet. Barsac, Vin de Grave, and Pontac, Are excellent growths, although not much known; and well suited for table use. All these white wines keep very well, acquir- ing an amber color, and a very dry taste as they get old. The consumption of French wines in England is very trifling. This has been caused by the high duties imposed upon them, and to an erroneous notion of their being too cold for English stom- achs. By a comparison of the number of gallons of winQ exported from France to different countries in various years, it appeared, that in Holland the consumption of French wines is four times, and in Russia twice, that of England. It is also worthy of remark that long after the Methuen treaty, Scotland and Ireland, under the genial influence of low du- 54 WINES OF PEANCE. ties, were still famous for Claret ; so erroneous is the vulgar opinion that it is a wine only suited for a warm climate. Home, the author of Douglass, in the following epigram, attributes the fiscal regula- tions, which introduced the heavier wine of Portu- gal into Scotland, to a settled design to break down the spirit of the people. " Firm and erect the Caledonian stood, Old was his mutton and his Claret good, ' Let him drink Port,' the English statesman cried, He drank the poison, and his spirit died." Grand Summary of the Wines of the Gironde. The red wines are divided into three great classes, each of which is subdivided into several sorts. Class 1 embraces the Medoc wines. Class 2 embraces the Grave, and St. Emilion. Class 3 embraces the common, or cargo wines. The first class is composed of the '■ grand eras," * the " cms bourgeois," and the " crus ordinaires." The " grand crus " are further distinguished as firsts, seconds, and thirds. The firsts are the wines of Chateau Margaux, Lafite, Latour, and Haut Brion. The latter is properly a Grave wine, but it is always classed among the first Medocs. The seconds are the wines of Rauzan, Leoville, Larose, Mouton, Gorse, &c. The thirds, wines which are produced by the vineyards touch- ing those above named, and which differ little in quality from them. The quantity of " grand crus " wine of the above description * " Cru" means, a vineyard — a particular spot in a vineyard — Vine land generally. WINES OF FRANCE. 55 does not exceed 3,000 tuna, and sells from l,600f. to 4,000f. per tun on the lees. The " crus bourgeois " consists of the superior Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, &c. Quantity estimated about 2,000 tuns, and prices on the lees 800f. to l,800f. per tun. The " crus ordinaires " sell at 300f. to 700f., according to the year and the quality. Quantity 25,000 to 35,000 tuns. The whole produce of Medoc is therefore about 40,000 tuns. The "grand crus" and "crus bourgeois" require four years care and preparation, before delivery for use, or for exportation : and this augments their price from 30 to 36 per cent. The second class is composed of the red wines of Grave and St. EmUion, which are in greater quantity, and amongst them some of a very superior quality, that are generally bought for mixing with Medoc. The first quality of these wines sells from 800f to l,800f. per tun. The second qualities from 300f. to 600f. The third dass consists of the common or cargo wines, the greater part of which are consumed in the country, or converted into brandy. The portion exported is sent off during the year of its growth. Prices from 160f. to 200f. per tun. The white wines of the first "cms" such as Haut Sauterne, Haut Barsac, Preignac, Beaumes, are only fit for use at the end of four or six years, and for exportation at the end of one or two years more. Prices on the lees range from SOOf. to l,500f. per tun. The " grand crus " of white Grave, St. Bries, Carbonieux, Du- lamon, &c., sell in good years from 500f. to SOOf The inferior white wines sell from 130f to 400f. per tun. The merchants in general purchase up the finest crus as soon as sufficiently advanced to judge of their character; or more fre- quently they are bought up for a series of years, whether good or bad. They are transported to their cellars or " chais" in Bor- deaux, so situated and protected by surrounding houses, as to preserve a tolerably equable temperature throughout the year ; and in these they ripen and undergo all the difierent processes of fining, racking, mixing, &c. considered necessary to adapt them to the different tastes of the foreign consumers. The grand crus of a superior year are employed to bring up the quality of one or two bad years, so that it is easy to conceive, that the famous wines of 1811, and of the years 1815, 1819, 1825, 56 WINES OF FRANCE. 1834, 1841, and 1844, are not speedily exhausted. Some houses keep their wines pure ; but the practice of mixing is, at any rate, very general. The purchase of the wines, whether from the grower or mer- chant, is always effected through brokers, some of whom have acquired a reputation for accuracy in dissecting the different fla- vors, and in tracing the results of the wines by certain measures of training or treatment. Great Britain takes off about one half of the highest priced Medoc wines, and very little of any other quality. Except in Bordeaux itself, there is but a very moderate portion of the supe- rior Medoc consumed in France. The capital takes off only second, third, and fourth rate wines. Holland is the largest for- eign consumer, after which the United States and Russia. Most- of the wines for the English market are reinforced with the strong fuU-bodied and high-iiavored wines of the Rhone, such as Hermi- tage, C5te Rotle, and Croze — especially the first, by which means they are hardly cognizable by the Medoc flavor. CHAMPAGNE. From a very remote period Champagne appears to have been generally appreciated, and is not less distinguished for its exhilarating vinous properties, than its interesting historical reminiscences. The growths of Epernay, and Haut Villiers are spoken of during the thirteenth century, and that of Ay about the fifteenth century ; when more generally known the wines rose into high estimation, and be- came, as Paulmier observed, the ordinary beverage of kings and princes. It appears to have been a favorite wine with the crowned heads of Europe at a very early period, as VG learn that Henry VIII. of England, Francis I. WINES OP FRANCE. 67 of France, Charles V. of Spain, and Pope Leo X. had each of them a commissioner, who resided at Ay for the purpose of securing a supply of the best wine of each vintage. In the year 1397, Vincelaus, king of Bohemia, came to France to negotiate a treaty with Charles VI. ; arrived at Rheims he became so fascinated with the wine as to prolong his departure to the latest moment, foregoing every other consideration in order to indulge in the sensual enjoyment of getting drunk on Champagne daily before dinner. Champagne reached its highest perfection and estimation about the year 1610, at the coronation of Louis XIII., and has ever since been considered the most celebrated of all the French wines; it long disputed the palm of excellence with Burgundy. The respective merits of these two wines were a mat- ter of disputation with the faculty of medicine for a very lengthened period, till in 1778 a decision was pronounced in favor of Champagne. The soil on which the Champagne wines are grown is, for the most part, composed of calcareous loam, mingled with stones near the surface ; the vines are trained very low, seldom allowed to rise more than eighteen inches, and are planted at the same distance asunder. The Champagne districts furnish many excellent wines, both red and white, which do not effervesce ; but by the term Champagne is generally understood a sparkling or frothing liquor, subjected to an im- perfect fermentation, and containing a quantity of 58 WINES OF FBAHrCE. carbonic acid gas, that has been generated during the insensible fermentation in bottle, and is disen- gaged on removing the pressure by which it is re- tained in solution. The department of the Marne is that in which the most celebrated of these wines are made ; in quality and quantity these "vineyards of the river" excel all the others. Champagne may be divided into three descrip- tions : Still (non mousseux) ; Creaming (cremans, or demi mousseux) ; High Sparkling (grand mousseux) ; and there is a great difference in the flavor and quality of the kinds, as well as in the produce of different vineyards. Silkry, &c, or Still {non moitsseux), Is produced from the vineyards of Verzenay, Mailly and Raumont, which are situated at the north east termination of the chain of hills that separates the Marne from the Vesle, and belonged, formerly, to the Marquis of iSillery, from whence its name. It was originally brought into notice by the peculiar care bestowed on the manufacture of it by the Marechah cCEstrees, it was long known by the name of Vin de la Marechah. It is universally admitted to be the best of the Still wines, and the most enduring. It is dry, of a light amber color, has a considerable body and a charming aroma ; " ie corps'^ (says M. JuUien), " hs spiritueux, lacharmant bouquet, et les vertus toniques dont il est pourvu lui assurent la priorite sur tous les autres" WINES OF FRANCE. 59 " The body, the spirit, the charming bouquet, and the tonic properties with which it is gifted, insure its superiority over all others." The grapes are sub- jected to less pressure, and the fermentation more perfect than that of any other species, for which reason it is considered one of the most wholesome of the Champagne wines. It has always been in much request in England, probably on account of its superior strength and durable quality. It is uni- versally drunk iced. dreaming or Ay (demi mousseux). The Ay Champagne is grown on a calcareous declivity, open to the south, at the foot of which runs the Marne, from Bisseul to the borders of the department of Aisne. Venner speaks of this wine as far excelling all other kinds, and confines the use of it to the kings and peers of France. Beaudius formed so high an opinion of it, that he declared to the President de Thoit it ought to be called vinum Dei. It is unques- tionably an exquisite wine, being lighter and sweeter than the Sillery, and accompanied by a delicate fla- vor and aroma, somewhat anaolgous to that of the pine-apple : it merely creams on the surface (demi mousseux), is considered superior to the full froth- ing wine (grand mousseux), and keeps better; on being drawn it sends up bubbles of carbonic acid gas to the surface, but never froths. Being bright, dear and, sparkling, it is as pleasing to the eye as it is grateful to the palate. 60 WINES OF FEANCE. " Cernis micanti concolor ut vitro Latex in auris, gemmeus aspici, Scintillet exultim ; utque dulces. Naribus illecebras propinet Succi latentis proditor habitus ! Ut spuma motu lactea turbido Crystallinutn Isetis referre Moxocculis properit nltorem." Coffin, Ode Aleaic. A fountain brilliant as a star, Sparkles into joyous life. Bright as morning's rosy car, Chasing every shade of strife. Sweet scented comes the morning airs, Brisk tasted comes the cheering tide. Bright creamy foam dispelled declares Sweet joys with man will hence abide ! The crystal juice opes all man's heart, Of hidden thought the secret mine. All grief and sorrow soon depart. For man is blessed with joyous wine. The Still aud Oreaming or Ay wines admit of no mediocrity — if not really first-rate they have nothing to recommend them beyond any ordinary growth ; but when the produce of a good year, and made from the choicest grapes of the best vineyards, they stand unrivalled. The Still wine carries a striking aromatic flavor of Champagne not found in the Sparkling. Nearly the whole of the Sillery and WINES OF FRANCE. 61 Creaming wines go to Paris and London ; they are seldom imported into this country. High Sparhling {grand mousseux), Is produced from nearly all the vineyards in the Champagne districts ; Eheims and Epernay, Ay, Mareuil, Dizy, Hautvilliers and Cumi^res, Bouzy, Verzy, Verzenay, and many others ; it is a wine not only the most popular in this country, but through- out the entire civilized world ; it possesses the same bouquet as the Creaming, and much of the flavor ; but a good deal of the strength of the wine evapor- ates in the gas. It is well to remark that the briskest of the Champagne wines are not always the best. They are of course the most defective in the vinous quality; and the small portion of alcohol which they contain, immediately escapes from the froth as it rises on the surface, carrying with it the aroma, and leaving the wine in the glass nearly vapid ; for it has been shown by Humboldt that when the froth is collected under a bell-glass surrounded Avith ice, the alcohol becomes condensed on the sides of the vessel by the operation of the cold. Hence the Still, or the Creaming, or the slightly sparkling Cham- pagne wines, are more highly valued by connoisseurs, and fetch higher prices than the full frothing wines. There is an exquisite delicacy about the wines of Champagne, a peculiar aroma which leaves an agree- able after-taste ; together with the " bouquet" or 62 WINES OF FRANCE. perfume which constitutes the distinguishing cha- racteristics in the fine qualities. The French have terms for distinguishing different qualities in their wines, some of which cannot be translated ; but the term " delicate" or " fine," as applied to the wines of Champagne, is pretty intelligible to those who are drinkers of French wines. A knowledge of the true taste and bouquet of Champagne in its genuine state, is absolutely neces- sary to form a correct judgment ; and these quali- ties are so marked in the wine, that a taste by no means first-rate in goodness may easily detect the wine which is deficient in them. The appearance of effervescence is no test in respect to quality ; he who cannot discover the real wine of Champagne by the bouquet and flavor may as well drink any other species of effervescing liquid. The aroma, bouquet and flavor of Champagne has never yet been imitat- ed with success. Although good Champagne is one of the wholesomest wines, cheap and bad Cham- pagnes are more than commonly pernicious and very injurious to the stomach. Every connoisseur in Champagne will select wine of a moderate efferves- cence, and such wine always carries the best price. When the glass is entirely filled with froth, on pour- ing out the contents of the bottle, the better qualities of the wine and spirit evaporate. The quantity of spirit in Champagne, as we have seen, is but small, and the residue is a flat, meagre liquid. WINES OF PRANCE. 63 Manufacture of Champagne. In no country is the art of wine-making so well understood as in France, and being a commodity wliicli it is impossible to equal except in a soil and temperature of exactly the same character, it is im- probable this country will be excelled by any other in her staple product. The following is an account of the process of making, and treatment of the wines of Champagne. For the manufacture of the white Champagne wines, black grapes are generally used. They ripen more easily, and resist the frost and rains common about the time of the vintage much better than the white sorts. Hence the wines which are made from them alone, or from a mixture of the two, are not so liable to degenerate as those prepared from white grapes only. They are picked with great care; those which are unripe, being rejected : they are gathered in the morning while the dew is wet upon them ; and it is remarked, that when the weather happens to be foggy at the time of the vintage, the produce of the fermentation is considerably increased. They are then subjected to a rapid pressure, which is generally finished in an hour. The wine obtained from this first pressure is called vin d'ilite, and is always kept apart from the rest ; that from the sec- ond or subsequent pressure vin de taille, and the last or third tisanne. The liquor procured by these suc- cessive pressings is collected as it flows, in small vats, from which it is removed, early on the follow- 64 "WINES OF FRANCE. ing day, into punclieons whicli have been previously sulphured. In these the must undergoes a brisk fermentation, and is allowed to remain till towards the end of December ; when it becomes bright. It is then racked and fined with isinglass, and in a month or six weeks more, is racked and fined a second time. In the month of March it is put into bottle. After it has been about six weeks in bottle it becomes brisk, and towards Autumn the fermen- tation is often so powerful as to occasion a consider- able loss by the bursting of the bottles ; but after the first year such accidents rarely happen. A sediment however is generally formed on the lower side of the bottle, which it becomes necessary to re- move, especially if the wine be intended for expor- tation ; this is accomplished by a peculiar manipu- lation termed (Tegorgement, the sediment being allowed to settle in the neck of the bottle, from which it is forced out, on drawing the cork. These operations and the loss sustained by them, and by the bursting of bottles, which is seldom less than twenty per cent., and often much more, necessarily enhance the price of the wine. The Sillery wines are kept in the wood from one to three years before they are bottled. In order to procure the wine known by the designation of Pink Champagne (vin rose), the grapes are slightly trodden and freed from the stalks, and the fermentation is allowed to commence before they are subjected to the press, in order to facilitate the solution of the coloring matter. After this the WINES OF PKANCE. 65 process is managed in the same way as with white wines. The Pink Champagne has always been in less request than the colorless, and has in fact noth ing to entitle it to a preference; An inferior sort is made by adding a few drops of a liquor obtained from the decoction of elder berries with cream of tartar. The Champagne wines, when well made and placed in cool cellars, will retain their good qualities from ten to twenty years. The creaming wine of Ay has been known to keep and continue to improve, even for a longer period ; acquiring only that slight bitterness which characterizes all old wines. The vaults in which they are Stored, at Eheims, Epernay, Avize, &c., are excavated in a rock of calcareous tufa to the depth of thirty or forty feet, the thermometer generally indicating a temperature of about 50° Fahrenheit, and the variation from winter to sum- mer seldom exceeding one degree. It would be useless to particularize every variety of wine produced in Champagne. Some classes are too meagre to attract the notice of foreigners, while others will not bear exportation. It suf&ces to re- mark that in no spot on th& globe is the art of mak- ing wine of such a delicate flavor so well understood, and that the great pains taken, and the labor requi- site to bring it to perfection, added to the loss in the process of effervescence, and not the scarcity of the grape, as some pretend, are the causes of the high price of the wines in comparison with other sorts. In truth they are an article of very highly finished manufacture. 5 66 WINES OF FEANCE. BUEGUNDT. The Burgundy wines are produced in the great- est variety, abundance and excellence, in the de- partments of the Cote d'Or, Sa6ne and Loire, known in former times under the appellation of Upper and Lower Burgundy. The soils on which these valuable wines are grown, consist, in general, of a light black or red loam, mixed with the debris of the calcareous rocks on which they repose. The vines are planted in trenches at the distance of about two feet apart, and are trained on poles to the height of thirty or forty inches. It is to the superior skill with which the cultiva- tion of the vines and fermentation of the grapes are managed, that the highly generous quality of the wines is to be ascribed. The truth of this obser- vation will become more apparent from the history of some of the most celebrated growths of this pro- vince. The wine of Beaune, for example, which for many centuries was considered the most choice of all, and the enjoyment of which, if we may credit the insinuation of Peteaech, was one of the motives which tended to prolong the residence of the papal court at Avignon, must now be placed in the second rank; while the Eoman^e Conti, which formerly was in no great repute, has become one of the most precious growths of Upper Burgundy, in conse- quence of the improvement in its manufacture. ■WINES OF PRANCE. 67 As the chief excellence of the wines of this dis- trict consists in the fulness of their flavor and bou- quet, it is obvious that the fermentation should be conducted with a view to the most complete preser- vation of the aroma ; and it may be also added, that from the same cause none of the finer Burgundy wines will bear removal except in bottle, and eveii in bottle they are apt to deteriorate, unless they are kept with the greatest care. In this country, we have in general a very im- perfect idea of the great variety and excellence of the wines which this province produces, as it is cus- tomary to comprehend them all under the generic term, Burgundy; and as the prime growths are con- fined to a few favored vineyards, and are in great re- quest in their own country, it is evident that but a small portion of them can ever come into this market. The inferior produce of the vineyards are often ex- ported under the denomination of the best, to those countries where the value cannot be realized for the first growths, nor their qualities duly appreciated ; and, indeed, the practice in question is notorious, not only in Burgundy, but in all parts of the world where wine forms an article of commerce. The most celebrated of these wines are the Eoman6e Conti, Eoman^e St. Vivant, Clos Vougeot, Ghambertin, Eichebourgh, Tache, and St. George. The three first, SomanSe Conti, Homanh St. Vivant, Chs Vougeot, : Are distinguished by their beautiful color, exqui- 68 WINES OP FRANCE. site flavor and bouquet — combining in a greater de- gree than any other wines, the qualities of lightness and delicacy with richness andfnlness of/ body. , Im common with the other growths they hare a peculiar vinous pungency, which may be occasionally per- ceived in some of the more perfect Italian and Span- ish red wines, but which, at the same time,- is alto- gether distinct from the sharpness that, belongs to the vinipiccanti, properly so called ; the latter being of a more acidulous nature. Ghamhertin. This ranks next in order, and is the produce of the vineyard of that name, situated seven miles to the south of Dijon, and about sixty -five acres in ex- tent ; it has a fuller body and a greater durability than the Eoman^e, with an aroma nearly as fragrant. Louis XIV. is said to have been partial to this, and it is mentioned as having been also the favorite wine of Napoleon. Richebourgh, Tache, and St. George, Approach to the Chambertin in their most essen- tial qualities ; and when made in favorable seasons keep remarkably well. The St. George was extol- led by the champion of the Burgundy wines in the controversy referred to, as a wine that had not an equal and could not be sufficiently esteemed ; and it is reported to have owed its high repute principally to the circumstance of having been prescribed as a re- WINES OF FBANGE. 69 storative to Loais XIV. in the illness with which he was seized in 1680. Vins de Primeur Belong to the second class of the fine red wines of this district. Of these, the Yolnay and Pomard are the principal ; the former being characterized by its light and grateful aroma and delicate tint-rthe latter having more body and color. They are both pro- duced in the neighborhood of Beaune.' Some of the Macon wines, in point of strength and durability, are superior to the second class Bur- gundy ; others of them are much esteemed for their delicacy, sprightliness, and agreeable flavor. There is an infinite variety in the wines of Bur- gundy which a foreigner can hardly comprehend. . Accustomed to wines less delicate than intoxicating, his favorite beverage is chosen more for strength than perfection of flavor. Although it has been previously observed that these wines owe their generous qualities, in a great measure, to the skill and care bestowed upon, the cultivation of the vine, and the fermentation of the grape, yet it must be admitted that the secret excel- lence of Burgundy very much depends upon un- known qualities in the soil, which, are developed only in particular places, often in the same vineyard, at all events within a very narrow district. While much is owing to climate and aspect, it is evident that the peculiar characteristics of Burgundy depend least upon the art and labor of man, since wines 70 WINES OF FRANCE. inferior in quality receive as much or more of his at- tention than the former. Burgundy is a wine not less celebrated for its in- comparable qualities, its exquisite delicacy of flavor, and its charming bouquet, than the uncertainty with which it retains them. Sometimes it preserves its excellence unimpaired for many years ; at others, it becomes insipid, vapid, discolored and decomposed in as many months. Any sudden change in temper- ature is particularly inimical to this wine, which should always be preserved in a cool not a cold cel- lar ; and, for the same reason, it should be trans- ported from one country to another, in very tempe- rate weather, the thermometer ranging between 50° and 60°. WHITE BURGUNDY. The white wines of Burgundy are less numer- ous, and consequently less generally known than the others, but they maintain the highest rank among French white wines, and are not inferior to the red either in aroma or flavor. Mont-Eachet Is the most distinguished, is deemed the most perfect, and surpasses all the other white wines of France by its delicious flavor and exquisite perfume. It is known by the several names of I'Aine, le Chevalier, and le Batard ; of which the last sells for only one third the price of the first. Yet these three qualities are produced from vineyards, which are WINES OF FBANCE. 71 only separated from one another by a footpath; which have the same exposure, and apparently the same soil ; on which the same species of vines are cultivated; and which are managed in every respect precisely in the same manner. Meursalt, Ghahlis, Pouilly, Fuissy, and Goutte d'Or, are all excellent wines, and approach more or less to the first growth. Dispute as to the comparative merits of Champagne and Burgundy. During the reign of Louis XIY. a controversy arose in the Schools, in consequence of a candidate for medical honors choosing to maintain in his in- augural thesis, that the wines of Burgundy were preferable to those of Champagne, and that the lat- ter were irritating to the nerves, and productive of dangerous disorders, but particularly of gout. Such an opinion finding adherents, could not fail to produce a considerable sensation, especially in the province most interested in the decision of the question. The faculty of medicine at Eheims ac- cordingly took up the defence of the Champagne wines, eulogizing their purity and brightness of color, their exquisite flavor and perfume, their great durability, and their general superiority to the growths of Burgundy. This attack on the merit of the latter produced a rejoinder from the pen of a professer of the college of Beaune ; and a regular paper war was commenced in verse as well as in 72 WrNES OP FRANCE. prose, which was urged with much warmth on both sides, according to the respective interests, tastes, or fancies of the combatants. The celebrated Charles Coffin, rector of the university of Beauvais, pub- lished during this controversy the classical ode partly quoted at page 60, in which Champagne is eulogized, and its superiority vindicated, with a spirit, vivacity, and delicacy, worthy of the theme. The citizens of Eheims were not ungrateful to the poet ; but liberally rewarded him with an appropri- ate and munificent donation of the wine he had so happily panegyrized. Gr^nau wrote an ode in praise of Burgundy ; but unlike its subject it was flat and insipid, and failed to procure any recom- pense to its author — the discussion was continued at intervals until the year 1778, when in a thesis defend- ed before the faculty of Medicine of Paris, a verdict was ultimately pronounced in favor of Champagne. It is however sufficiently certain, that the growths of Burgundy must, in some respects, be considered as the more perfect of the two. In rich- ness of flavor and perfume, and all the more deli- cate qualities of the juice of the grape, they un-. questionably rank as the first in the world ; and it, was not without reason that the dukes of Burgundy in former times were designated as the "princes des hons vim," M. JuUien is not less decided: " Le vin des premiers eras, lorsqu'ils proviennent d'une bonne an- nie, reunissent, dans de justes propwtions, toutesles qual- ites qui constituent les vins parfaits ; ils n'ont besoin rVaucun mHange^ d'aucunepriparationpour attendre kur WINES OF PEANOE. 73 pHs haul degre de perfection. Ces, operations, que I'on qvalififi dans ceriains pays de, soins qui aident d kt qmlite, sent toujours nuisibks aux vins de JBourgogne." "•Wines of the first grade when they are the produce of a good year, uijite all the qualities that constitute perfect wines, and require no mixture or preparation;, to enable them to attain the highest degree of perfec- tion. Those operations, which are terijied in certain countries helps to improve the quality, are always detrimental to Burgundy wine." Erasmus attributes the restoration of his health to his having drunk- liberally of Burgundy ; and has eulogized it in the most extravagant terms. An epistle of his quoted by Le Grand d'Aussy, shows that Falstaff and he could have spent an evening together less disagreeably than might have been supposed: Le premier qui enseigna, I'art de fiiire ce vin (Bourgogne), ou qui en fit present,. ne doit-il point passer plut6t pour nous avoit donn^ la vie que pour nous avoir gratifi^ d'une liqueur!, " Ought not the man who first taught us the art by which this wine might be prepared, rather claim the merit of having given us life than of contribu- ting a wine to our sources of gratification ?" . HERMITAGE. On the granite hill, which rises to an elevation, of five or six hundred feet, immediately behind the town of Tain, on the left bank of the Ehone, and 74 WINES OF FRANCE, twelve miles from Valence, are the famous vine- yards of the Hermitage. Nothing can be finer than the exposure ; as the whole of the slope faces the south, and with the exception of the east side of the ravine, enjoys the full benefit of the sun's rays during the greater part of the day. The inclination however is so steep, that it has been found necessary to form part of it into terraces. Tradition says that an inhabitant of the town of Condrieu determined to turn hermit, and established his cell on an uncultivated hill near Tain. He amused his leisure hours by breaking the stones and rocks to pieces which surrounded his dwelling, and planting among them some vine slips from Con- drieu : they succeeded to admiration. His example was copied by others, and the sterile hill side was soon converted-into a vineyard. Thus in some in- stances are we indebted to the erroneous and ascetic habits of men for some of the choicest delicacies of the taste. Eed Hermitage when genuine is distinguished by its fall body, dark purple color, and exquisite flavor and perfume, which is not inaptly compared to the raspberry — it requires to be kept eight or ten years in cask before it is sufficiently matured, and nearly a similar length of time in bottle in order to develop its more delicate qualities. It is asserted that the grape from which this wine is made was originally brought from Schiraz in Persia, by one of the Hermits of Bessas. WINES OF PRANCE. 75 White Hermitage. This wine is made from white grapes only, and is one of the finest white wines France produces. Its odor is like that of no other wine ; it keeps much longer than the red, even to the extent of a century, without the least deterioration. It is a delicate wine, possessing much spirit and richness of body, a pow- erful aroma, and a peculiar flinty taste, and the bouf^uet or perfume is perfect. It would appear that it abounds in mucous or extractive matter ; for when exposed to the air it quickly changes color and acquires an unpleasant flavor. Chateau Grillett Is a delicious white wine grown in the same vi- cinity ; it is not so strong as the Hermitage. Cdte Sdtie. This is a red wine grown on the southern de- clivity of the hill to the west of Ampujis, on the right bank of the Ehone, seven leagues from Lyons ; it resembles Hermitage, and ranks as one of the first red wines of France, possessing good body, flavor, and a bouquet similar to the sweet odor of the violet. Hoiisillon Is a, red wine, distinguished by its great body and color, and is generally regarded as the strongest and most durable of any that France produces. Hence 76 WINES OF FRANCE. it is mucli used for distillation, and for strengthen- ing the lighter growths of the Bordelais. VINS DE LIQUEUR — SWEET OR MUSCADINE WINES. Rivesdltes Is considered the best muscadine wine, not only in France but perhaps in the whole world ; for it is much more perfect of its kind than many others to which an undue degree of excellence is ascribed, merely because they come to us from a greater dis- tance, and are remarkable for their rarity and cost- liness. When sufficiently matured by age, it is of a bright golden color, and has an oily smoothness, a fragrant aroma, and a delicate flavor of the quince, by which it is distinguished from all other sweet wines. Frontignac Is remarkable for the strong flavor of the grape from which it is obtained. When the wine is old, the taste of the fruit becomes less perceptible, but the flavor continues always exceedingly luscious. The aroma has been compared to that of the elder-berry. Lunel Is a very delicate wine of a bright pale color, with a less distinct flavor of the grape, and less cloying than the Frontignac, and is esteemed one of the most delicious and favorite of the sweet wines. WINES OF FBANOE. 77 Vin de Pailk, A luscious, agreeable, and stomachic wine, made from the ripest grapes, which are hung up, or spread upon straw, for six or eight weeks, or until they be- come half dried. From the mode of preparation it has received the name of straw wine (vin de paille). In flavor and aroma it very closely resembles the best Const9,ntia. ST. PERAl. These wines are grown on the banks of the Rhone, nearly opposite to Valence. They are de- cidedly the best growths of Languedoo, and are characterized by their delicacy and sprightliness, and a flavor that partakes of the odor of the violet. When bottled in the spring following the vintage, they sparkle and froth like the wines of Champagne. VIN DE GABDE. The best of these white wines are produced at Chateau Chalons; red is also made at the same place, and at M^netru and Frontenay ; the efferves- cing at Etoile and Quintigny ; they are seldom or never exported. The white wines de garde, or wines for keeping, as it may be rendered, are made of the best white grapes, from the must of a single pres- sure. As it comes from the press the mmt is put 78 WINES OF FRANCE. up in very strong iron-bound casks. The bung is made as close as possible, and they cover it with linen soaked in oil, over which are placed fine ashes well pressed down. The wine is racked twice at the end of eight or ten months from the vintage. After this the cask is left without closing or filling up for ten or twelve years, when the wine is bottled, and improves the longer it is kept. CHAPTER VIII. OF THE "WINES OF SPAIN. THE CLIMATE AND POSITION OF SPAIN RENDER ITS KAT0RAL AD- VANTAGES UNPARALLELED — ^NON-APPLICATION OF SCIENCE TO THE MANUFACTURE OF WINE PREVENTS HER BEING THE FIRST WINE COUNTRY IN THE WORLD — SHERRY OR XEREZ — AMONTIL- LADO — VmO DE PASTO — MANZANILLA — OLOROSA — SACK — PAXA- RETTA — ^PEDRO XIMENEZ — LAGRIMA DE MALAGO — TENT — ^VAL DE PENAS — BENI CARLOS — MAJORCA AND MINORCA. Emulating France in some of her richest growths, and in the abundant produce of her vineyards, Spain has long occupied a prominent place among the wine countries of Europe. The range of moun- tains that overlook the extensive coasts, and bound the principal rivers of the peninsula, present the happiest exposures, and every variety of soil for the cultivation of the vine ; and the warmth of the climate insures to its fruit an early and perfect ma- turity. Hence in all those districts where a good system of management prevails, the vintages are dis- tinguished by their high flavor and aroma, as well as by their strength and durability: in others these natural advantages are lost by adherence to erro- 80 WINES OF SPAIN. neous modes of treatment. The red wines in par- ticular are often spoiled in the fermentation, and generally speaking, are dull and heavy on the pal- ate. In that class, the Spaniards can boast of but one wine which will bear comparison with the more delicate growths of France ; but in the preparation of dry white wines, and certain species of sweet wines, they stand nearly unrivalled ; and the trade in them, which they carry on with all parts of the world, is a constant stimulus to industry, and a never-failing source of wealth to the more populous provinces of the kingdom. In estimating the general character of the wines of any country, considerable allowance must be made for the prevailing tastes and habits of the na- tives, as well as the disadvantages in respect of in- ternal commerce under which they may labor. The Spaniard, when he drinks wine as an article of lux- ury, gives the preference to such as is rich and sweet. Hence he is disposed to rate the growths of Malaga more highly than those of Xerez, which, how- ever, are the most perfect, and most generally es- teemed by other nations. The great abundance too in which wine is everywhere produced, makes him careless of obtaining a particular supply ; or, . if he were inclined to take any pains about it, the diffi- culty of conveyance, and want of proper convenien- ces for keeping it, would, in general, prevent him from indulging his wish. Hence, when not supplied from his own vineyard, he commonly remains de- pendent on the next tavern for what may be requir- WINES OF SPAIN; 81 ed for family use, and must be content with such new and indifferent wine as the vintner may choose to send him. It is also worthy of remark, that throughout many parts^ of Spain, the peasantry store the produce of their .vintage in skins, which are smeared with pitch,' from which the wine is apt to contract a peculiar disagreeable taste, called the oUr de bota, and to become muddy and nauseous. Bottles, casks and subterraneous wine cellars are rarely met with, except in the monststeries and great commer- cial towns. Under such management, we cannot be surprised that the common Spanish wines should fall so far short of the excellence that might be : an- ticipated from the favorable circumstances in which they are grown ; or that the traveller in the midst of the most luxurious vineyards, should often find the manufactured produce wholly unfit for use. The most celebrated and perfect wines of Spain, are the Sherries grown in the. province of Andalusia, and the district of Xerez de la Frontera ; the vine- yards extend over a tract of country forty-five miles in length and eighteen !'in breadth, and the wines become inferior as the vineyards recede from this point. The best wines produced are grown upon a soil which chiefly consists of carbonate of lime, with a small admixture of silex and clay, and occasionally magnesia. Many Tof the principal vineyards are in the hands of British and French settlers, and to this circumstance it may not, perhaps, be unfair to attri- bute the improvement which has of late years taken place in this wine. 6 82 WINES OF SPAIN. The most venovfaed pagos or wine districts lie in the immediate boundary of Xerez, and include Macharnudo, Garrascal, Los Tercios, Barbiana, Aflina, San Julian, Mochiele, Caraola and Cruz del Husillo ; the struggle and competition for their pos- session is so great that they are divided, sub-divided and sold occasionally at most extravagant prices. SHEEEY OR XEEEZ. The wine is called Sherry, being an English cor- ruption of the word Xerez, to render the pronuncia- tion more facile. This wine is made from red and white grapes in- discriminately. They are gathered as they become ripe, and are spread on mats to dry. At the expi- ration of two or three days, they are freed from the stalks and picked, those that are unripe or rotten being rejected. The varieties of -the wine are produced by the different modes of treating it; the best pale Sherry is made from the very finest grapes. Those that are pale, or very pale, are chiefly owing to the difference in the ripeness of the fruit ; the various grades of color are obtained by the addition of boiled wine, in such proportion as is deemed requisite for the purpose. Mne pure Sherry should be pale or amber in color, devoid of sweetness, of a dry flavor, fine aro- matic odor, with some degree of the agreeable bit- WINES OF SPAIN. 83 terness of the peach, kernel, termed nutty ; delicacy and softness, firmness and durability, with absence of acidity, are the distinguishing characteristics of this wine of a high grade. Amontillado Is a superior dry Sherry of accidental produce, and quite a phenomenon in wine making, as no grower can be certain by what grape it will be pro- duced or from what treatment it may be obtained ; and it is singular that, of one hundred casks from the same vineyard, some of them will be Amontil- lado without the grower being able to account for it ; it has a strong flavor of cenanthic ether. Not one drop of brandy can be added to genuine Amon- tillado, and it allows of no foreign mixture whatever. It is invariably pale and brilliant. Vino de Pasto, An extremely delicate high flavored wine, par- taking somewhat of the character of Amontillado ; and possessing the same peculiarity in respect to its origin ; ^it is not quite so dry, but more palatable, and reckoned a superior dinner wine. Manzanilla, Called also vino del pais, is a light wine of a pale color and low grade ; the flavor of the really genuine resembles the flowers of camomile, and is considered very wholesome. To relish this wine a taste must 84 WINES OF SPAIN. be acquired for it. It is made near San Lucar ; not produced from the Xerez vineyards. Oloroso. The term Oloroso is Spanish, derived from oh — odor, and roso — rose ; and may be applied to all Sherry wines distinguished for a fine aroma or per- fume — it does not mean Sherry possessing a flavor of the rose, but simply signifies any agreeable perfume that may be natural and inherent in the wine. Sack. The term " Sack" has been applied to the sweet and dry wines of Xerez, Malaga and Canary, but the first-named place is entitled to priority. , This was the beverage so highly prized by Falstaff, and administered to the dying Lefevre by the philanthro- pic and warm-hearted hero of Sterne in his Tristram Shandy. Various derivations are given of the word sack, namely — ^from a Japanese liquor called sacki, or a corruption of the word sec (dry)^or Xeque, a town of Morocco, where wine was produced in abundance — or saco, or the odre horracho in which wine is carried, yet the Spaniards do not apply " saco" to wine- skins — lastly, the supposition that it was introduced into Europe by the Spanish and Portuguese traders by whom the wine was made and sent from Spain and the Canaries. The origin of the term, as well as the particular wine it designated, cannot be of much WINES OF SPAIN. 85 importance, and will ever remain a matter of conjec- ture. Paocaretta, So named from an ancient monastery, about five miles from Xerez, is a rich and highly esteemed Malmsey, possessing much of the aromatic flavor of Sherry — ^it is made from rich or over-ripe grapes grown on the chalky soils of the surrounding terri- tory. Pedro Ximenez Eeceives its name from a grape which is said to have been imported from the banks of the Ehine by an individual called Pedro Simon (corrupted to Ximenez), and is one of the richest and most delicate of the Malaga wines, resembling very much the Malmsey of Paxaretta. Lagrima de Malaga Is the richest and finest of the sweet wines of Malaga ; the name of which almost explains the manner in which it is made. It is the droppings of the ripe grape hung up, and is obtained without the application of pressure — it is very luscious, and made from the large white Muscatel grape. It resembles Constantia, and although not much used by foreign- ers is highly valued by the Spaniards. 86 WINES OF SPAIN. BED WINES. For the preparation of red wines the grapes are used without any selection ; and with a view to give color and strength to the must, a large quantity of burnt gypsum is strewed upon them before they are trodden, which occasions a rapid fermentation, and imparts a harsh dry taste to the wine, though much of the saccharine matter remains undecomposed. When the wine is made, the ordinary care and atten- tion is dispensed with, and it is sent to market in an imperfect state. In fact all the red wines of Spain are made in an unscientific, careless manner. Tent. This wine is grown about five leagues from Cadiz, is sometimes called Tintilla or Tinto di Eota, but generally known as Tent, especially in England, where it is principally used as a Sacramental wine, and sometimes drank as a stomachic. This is the only red wine of Andalusia worthy of notice ; it is sweet and generous, and nearly of the consistency of honey, its richness and heaviness rendering it unsuita- ble for ordinary use. The grape from which this wine is made forms an exception to all others from the internal hue being black. There is another red sweet wine made in Andalusia also called Eota or Tinto di Rota ; it too is of the rich class but has a tart flavor. WINES OF SPAIN. 87 Val de Pena^ This celebrated red wine is grown upon a rocky or stony soil, as Val de Penas or " Valley of Stones" indicates. It resembles Burgundy, being rich and racy, and in the estimation of many considered the finest red wine in the world. It is rarely drunk in perfection except on the spot, owing to its being transported in skins which impart to it a strong rancid flavor, as well as the adultera- tions practised upon it by the carriers during its transit from the interior. It is made from a Burgun- dy grape which has been transplanted from the stinted suns of fickle France to the certain and glorious summers of La Mancha — the finest quality is produced at New Castile, and an inferior descrip- tion is made at Manzanares. Beni Carlos Is produced from the neighborhood of a town of that name in the province of Valencia an'd to the eastward of that city ; a considerable quantity of this wine is exported to France, expressly to mingle with Claret for the English market, and also to this coun- try and Great Britain to mix with Port wine. It is a coarse, strong and deep-colored wine. Catalonia, Valencia, Alicant and Areagon produce considerable quantities of wine; some really excellent are made in La Torre, Perales, Segorbe and Vinarez ; others are extremely coarse 88 WIISTES OF SPAIN. and indifferent, and not being adapted for foreign consumption are used as the common drink in the country. There is a very good red wine made in Alicant called vino tinto — strong and sweet ; it comes from the tintilla plant. Like Cyprus wine, it is said to possess healing qualities and to cleanse wounds. There is also another excellent red wine made which becomes of the very first order by age ; it is made from grapes of two or three sorts, mingled together. The red wines of Spain are numerous, but, as before remarked, the vintage operations are con- ducted so regardless of ordinary care, that many of the wines are not worthy of notice, beyond their immediate localities. It is not too much to expect from a country pos- sessing so glorious a climate, and where fine seasons and good vintages are the rule, and not the exception, that the wines of Spain, both red and white, will one day rank much higher in estimation than they do at present. The importation of them, into all countries, is fast encroaching upon the Portugal wines. The political "condition of the country must change for the better, at some future time ; then the happy na- ture of the climate, and the fertility of the soil will be seconded by industry and science. When that period arrives, it will not be too much to expect, that the delicacy and aroma of French wines will be found in those of Spain; and that, together with good management in the conduct of her vintages, Spain may exhibit wines of the first class, as to qual- ity, and rival all other nations successfully. The WINES OF SPAIK. 89 white and sweet wines are almost all that are known to foreigners; but the red wines of Spain, properly treated, will be found equal to most others. The islands of Majorca and Minorca produce some good wines. Muscadine and red wines are grown in the last-named island, but seldom exported. In Majorca, there is an excellent red wine made called Aleyor ; and at Banal Busa the wine known by the name of Alba Flora, is produced; it resembles Ehine wine, but is not quite so dry. CHAPTER IX. or THE WINES OP MADEIRA. INTRODUCTION OF THE VINE — MADEIRA WINE DISTINGUISHED FOR ITS EXTRAORDINART DURABILITY AND SUPERIORITY — MALMSEY — SEECIAL — BUAL — TINTO — TIHTA — ^VEEDEILHO. The island of Madeira is said to have been stocked with plants brought from Cyprus, by order of Pkince Heney, under whose auspices the first colony of the Portuguese was established there, in the year 1421. The mildness of the climate and the volcanic soils with which that island abounds, were so favorable to their growth, that if we may credit the report of the Venetian traveller, Alvise de Mosto, who stopped there on his voyage to Africa, in 1455, they produced more grapes than leaves, and the clusters were of extraordinary size. For a long time sugar was the principal commodity which Madeira sup- plied ; and it was not until a comparatively recent period that its wines became generally known, and acquired that distinction to which their many valu- able qualities so justly entitle them. From a very early period, Madeira wine has been in extensive use in this country ; it is on record, that wines were ex- WINES OF MABEIEA. 91 ported from the island before 1460. The first colon- ists of North America were no sooner settled there, than they carried staves, corn, and other produce to the island, and exchanged them for wine. It ap- pears to have been little used in England, until the middle of the last century, and owed its introduction to the British officers who had served in the West Indies, and had become acquainted with the excel- lence of the wines. The demand considerably in- creased from the suspension of commercial inter- course with other wine countries, during the Euro- pean war (Madeira being then looked upon as an Af- rican settlement). This led to importations of all the inferior grades, and these being sold for above their value, necessarily brought the whole into disrepute, at least among those who were not aware of the dis- tinctions existing. None but the very highest grades can now be sold for consumption in that country. The north side of the island, though sufficiently fertile, being exposed to cold winds and fogs from the sea, is necessarily less suitable to the culture of the vine than the south side, where all the best vine- yards are accordingly situated. The soil most com- monly met with, consists of pumice-stone, mixed with a portion of clay, sand and marie ; on several of the lower hills, nothing but black or gray volcanic ashes are seen, and the higher lands are generally covered with a soft lava, which rests upon a stratum oi black ashes. As the acclivities are often very steep, they are partly formed into terraces, to prevent the loose earth from being washed away; and 92 WINES OF MADEIRA. to counteract the effects of the summer droughts, watercourses are constructed along the sides of the mountains, which enable the farmers to irrigate their vineyards as occasion may require. Among, the various species of grape cultivated, those called verddlho, negra, molle, bual, malvazia, and sercial, yield the best wines. They are propagated by quicksets or cuttings, and planted in rows ; the ground being always trenched sufficiently deep to allow the roots to penetrate into the substratum of volcanic ashes. Some are left without support, and kept low by frequent pruning ; others are trained on square frames or trellises, from twenty to thirty inches high ; while others, again, are disposed on a sloping lattice work, formed of canes, and supported by poles, the tallest of which rise about seven feet from the ground. The fruit is generally ripe about the first week in September ; for the best wines, it is gathered at different times, and carefully picked, the unripe and damaged portion being set apart for the manufacture of an inferior wine. Most of the red grapes are consumed in the manufacture of white wines ; but a portion of them are converted into tinta. The demand for Madeira wines, in this country, to which, at one period, they were alone exported, first led to a knowledge of the benefit they derive from removal to a warm climate, and since they have come into use among the nations of Europe, it has been usual to prepare them for particular markets, by a voyage to the East or West Indies. The wines which have been thus matured, necessarily sell for WLNES OF MADEIRA. 93 much higher prices than those which have been im- ported directly from Madeira; but it does not follow, that the wines which have made the longest voyage, and been- transplanted to the hottest country, are al- ways the best. . Much will depend on the original qual- ity of the wine, on the degree of fermentation which it had previously undergone, and on the quality of brandy which had been used with it. The great additional expense attending this mode of improving Madeira wines, has occasioned the adoption of various artificial methods, by which a similar effect may be obtained. It has, for many years, been the practice to subject a certain portion of the vintages to the continued influence of a high -temperature, by placing them in rooms heated by stoves and flues, like the apotheca or fumarium of the ancients. The wine thus treated is said to acquire, in the course of a few months, the same degree of mellowness, and the same tint, which it would take as many years to produce by the ordinary method of keeping, or by a voyage to a hot climate ; but it generally wants that delicacy of flavor, which noth- ing but time will give. Delicate high grade wines are generally exempted from this course of treat- ment, and are allowed to attain maturity by time, unassisted by these artificial means. Various addi- tions are used to bring up the character of the inferior growths to the standard of the first, and palm them upon the world for that which they are not. Some imagine the character of the wines to have deteriorated of late years,: but such is not the 94 WINES OF MADEIRA. case — indeed there is no reasonable ground for the supposition. The demand for the cheap wines of all countries, has been so great that the Madeira mer- chants have been compelled to send cheaper, and, consequently, inferior wines, especially to this coun- try, and these qualities, in many instances, being sold to consumers for the finest, naturally caused a reaction, which must be the case with all wines, from the same cause. Madeira. Fine Madeira wines are distinguished for their extraordinary durability. Like the ancient vintages of the Surrentine hills, they are truly "firmissima vina," retaining their qualities unimpaired in both extremes of climate, suffering no decay, and con- stantly improving as they advance in age. Indeed they cannot be pronounced perfect until they have been kept eight or ten years in wood, and after- wards allowed to mellow for the same time in bottle ; and even then, they will hardly have reached the utmost perfection of which they are susceptible. When of good quality, and matured in the manner described, they lose all their original harshness, and acquire that agreeable pungency, that bitter-sweet- ness, which was so highly prized in the choicest wines of antiquity — uniting great delicacy and rich- ness of flavor, with an exceedingly fragrant and diffusible aroma. The nutty taste which is often very marked, is not communicated, as some have imagined, by means of bitter almonds, but is the WINES OF MADEIRA. 95 result of superior quality and great age, and, conse- quently, becomes inherent in the wine. It is scarce- ly necessary to jemark, that the preceding observa- tions apply exclusively to- wines of a high order, for Madeira, like all other wine countries, furnishes, along with a few superior growths, a great many of indifferent quality. Malmsey. The term Malmsey is merely a corruption of Mal- vasia, or rather Monovasia, the name of a small forti- fied town in the bay of Epidaurus, Limera, where the grape was originally derived. It is grown on rocky grounds, -which are exposed to the full influence of the sun's rays, and like all other luscious wines, is made from grapes allowed to remain on the vine until they are over-ripe, or partially shrivelled. Malmsey is universally admitted to be one of the finest and most delicious sweet wines, a portion of which is usually reserved for the royal table of Portugal — the quantity produced is very limited. Sercial Is an excellent and highly esteemed dry wine, obtained from a grape, which, like the Malvasia, will only succeed on particular spots. When new it is very harsh and austere, and requires to be kept a great length of time before it is thoroughly mellowed. It possesses all the requisites of a perfect wine, being extremely delicate, with a rich aromatic flavor, quite peculiar to itself, combining with the ordinary pro- 96 WINES OF MADEIRA. per ties of the finest Madeira, an agreeable nutty flavor, an aerative property and stimulancy, that leaves nothing to be desired. It holds the same rank among Madeira wines that Amontillado does among Sherries. The grape which yields it is the Johannisberg, transplanted from the Ehine. Bual. An extremely delicate soft wine possessing a high flavor, and reckoned among the most superior on the island. It is supposed to have descended from a Spanish or the Burgundy grape. Tinto, or Pure Juice Madeira, Is a south side wine, made from purple grapes and some white mixed ; the husks being excluded in making the wine, renders it not astringent ; it is an excellent table drink, and improves much in this country with age and proper treatment. Tinta, or Burgundy Madeira, Eesembles Burgundy, from which vine it is pro- duced, and is the only red wine made on the island — it is a fine wine of a ruby color and astringent in its character, and very agreeable as long as it retains its fragrancy and color,, though it generally wants the high aroma for which the white sorts are distinguish- ed. When old it may be compared to tawny Port ; after a few years it loses its color entirely, and is apt to turn into a delicate but rather an ordinary Ma- deira. WINES OF MABEIRA. 97 Verdeilho Is produced from the white grape, and when made from the growth of the South side is the most potent wine of Madeira : it requires great age to mature and attain celebrity. Nearly all the fine wines are produced in the district of Cama de Lobos, Bstreito, St. Eoque and St. Antonio. In the district of Companio a very delicate flavored white wine is made, possessing a high aroma and esteemed on the island ; little of this is exported. CHAPTER X. OF THE WINES OF POBTTJGAL. INTRODUCTION OF PORT WINES INTO ENGLAND — BEGINNING OF ADULTERATION — EOTAL WINE COMPANY AND ITS OPERATIONS. — ALTO DOURO — MODE OF MANUFACTURE — OPORTO — DESCRIPTION OF GOOD PORT — COLARES — BARRA-A-BARRA — BUOELLAS TERMO — ARINTO — ^LISBON — ST. USES MALMSEY CARCAVELLOS. When the war with France broke out in 1689, the price of Claret rose very rapidly, and in the course of two or three years the stock on hand being com- pletely exhausted it became necessary to find some substitute for it, and this was the red wine of Portu- gal, which appears to have been then imported for the first time into England ; the Oporto wines were then free from any admixture of brandy or other adulterations. The practice of using brandy com- menced about the year 1720, and became very pre- valent in the year 1754, and to meet the vitiated tastes of English consumers, the vineyard proprietors and merchants were compelled to exceed the limits which nature had assigned for the production of pure wines, — the demand was for such as, when drank, "WINES OF PORTUGAL. 99 should feel like liquid fire in the stomach, burn like inflamed gunpowder, bear the tint of ink, be like the sugar of Brazil in sweetness, and like the spices of India in aromatic flavor. The importers and consu- mers still complaining of want of strength and color in the article supplied, it was found necessary to dash it with a larger quantity of brandy during fermen- tation to give it strength and sweetness, and the extract of elder-berries or the rind of the grape to increase the color ; the recipe was thus propagated till the wines became a mere confusion of mixtures. In the year 1766, a monopoly was granted to the chartered Eoyal Wine Company of Oporto, with the view of correcting these objectionable practices in the manufacture of the wines ; if the company had done its duty and acted up to its professions the wines of Oporto, which are naturally of a good character, would have been improved into wines of the first class ; but they were the first to violate their own fundamental laws by mixing wines of the most infe- rior qualities with the growths of the Douro ; other privileges which they abused had the effect of de- stroying the genuine character of pure Port wine, so that the finer products of the Douro are in a great measure unknown to us, and Port wine has become to be a single- liquor, of nearly uniform flavor and strength, — varying it is true to a certain extent in quality, but still always approaching to a definite standard, and admitting of few degrees of excellence. The manipulations, the admixtures, and in one word the adulterations, to which the best wines of the 100 WINES OF. PORTUGAL. Douro are subjected, have much the same eifect, as if all the growths of Burgundy were to be mingled in one immense vat, and sent into the world as the only true Burgundian wine : the delicious produce of Eomande, Chambertin, and the Clos-Vougeot would disappear; and in their places we should find nothing better than a second rate Beaune, or Macon wine. The more obnoxious special privileges of this Company have long since been abrogated, neverthe- less errors in legislation, confirmed by long usage, make the return to true principles proportionally difficult, so many are found interested in the pursu- ance and upholding of every system attended with gain. The picture thus drawn may be considered over charged, but it must be regarded as conveying too just a representation of the vitiated taste in Port wines. To so great a length is the practice in ques- tion occasionally carried, that some of these wines are to be met with of excellent quality in other respects, but so highly adulterated with brandy, and retaining their adventitious strength in so marked a degree, as to baffle the courage of the most deter- mined Port wine drinkers, even when their harsher properties have been subdued by age. The finest Port wines are the produce of the Alto Douro, about fifty miles from the harbor of Oporto, the country presenting a succession of hills on both sides of the river, which afford the choicest exposures, and such soils as are considered most pro- pitious to the culture of the vine. WINES OF PORTUGAL. 101 The vines are kept low, and trained on poles ; a considerable variety of species is cultivated. As soon as the grapes begin to shrivel they are gathered and introduced into broad shallow vats, where they are trodden along with the stalks ; and this opera- tion is repeated several times during the fermentation, which in the case of superior wine continues about three days. When the liquor has ceased to ferment, it is removed into large tuns, containing from eight to twenty pipes each. After the fair of the Douro, which usually takes place in February, the wine is racked into pipes, for the purpose of being conveyed into the lodges of the wine merchants of Oporto, who make their purchases at this period. To that which is reserved for exportation a quantity of brandy is added when it is deposited in the stores ; and a second portion is thrown in before it is shipped. Whether the addition of brandy is made with the view of enabling the wines to bear sea carriage, or merely to please the English palate, it is of little importanceto determine ; however it has long been an article of belief in Great Britain that the quality of these wines is much improved by the admixture ; and what are " black, strong, and sweet " still find admirers. Port Derives its name from the place of shipment, Oporto ; when new it is of a dark purple color, has a full rough body with an astringent sweet taste — the color also varies from a pale rose to a bright purple, 102 WINES OF PORTUGAL. is perfectly transparent, the rose becomes tawny and the purple ruby, both of which colors are durable. The color and astringent properties of the wine are derived from the husk, and in part from the seeds of the grape. When this wine has remained some years in the wood, the sweetness, roughness, and astringency of flavor abate ; but it is only after it has been some time in bottle, that the genuine aroma of the wine is developed. No wine is so easy of adultera- tion as Port, none so much adulterated, and none which by mere flavor, from the natural coarseness of the wine in its first stages, it is so difficult to detect. The essential characteristics of good Port wine are richness of color, a soft, fruity, and generous taste, freedom from sweetness and without too much astrin- gency. Notwithstanding the remarks made in the pre- ceding part of this chapter, it must be admitted that Portugal can produce red wines to vie with the best that France or any other wine country can boast of; but these superior growths are rare, and for the reasons already stated, they are still more rarely met with in their pure and unadulterated condition. Of the other red wines beside Port, Colares may be named ; it is dry and not unlike common Claret, and is principally drunk in the country. The wine of Barra-a-Barra in the vicinity of Lavadio, is a highly valued red wine. WINES OF POETUGAL. 108 White Wines. The white wines of Portugal are of very good quality, and as their flavor and aroma are generally of a more delicate and evanescent nature than those of the red class, they are still less capable of bear- ing an admixture of brandy. The best of this class is Bucellas, a dry wine re- sembling Hock, Termo an excellent wine of good body, and Arinto an agreeable delicate wine of the same species ; all of which are well adapted for table use. Lisbon is a fair ordinary wine, but not equal in point of delicacy and flavor to the former. Of the Sweet wines, St. Ubes Malmsey, and Car- cavellos, are well known as excellent dessert wines. CHAPTER XL OF TBE -WllirES or GEEMANY. KPOCH of the VtNt; in GtEMAUy — LATITUDE OF CULTIVATIOS— LOCALITY OF THE BtST VINEYARDS — MODE OF MANUFACTURE — CAPACIOUS 'WtNE VESSELS — PRESERVATION AND IMPROVEMENT OF THE WINES — GENERAL QUALITIES — ABSENCE OF ALCOHOL — CELEBRATED VINTAGES — JOHANNISBERGEE — STEINBEHGER — RUDESHEIMEE — HOCHHEIMER — MOSELLE — UNRIVALLED DURA- ElLtTT — 'VVHOLESOMEnESS. Various epochs have been assigned for the intrc duction of the vine into Germany; the most au- thentic and general authorities agree, that it proba- bly was not till towards the reign of Charlemagne, that the vine was cultivated on the banks of the Ehine> From that period the agriculture of Ger- many has continued gradually to improve ; and such has been the melioration of the climate, that it now freely admits of the culture of the vine, in some places, even as far as the fifty-second degree of northern latitude. If, in these remote situations, the fruit which it bears prove occasionally of indif- ferent quality, yet, in certain districts, on the other hand, the vintages are brought to a high degree of WINES OF GERMANY. 105 perfection; and it is worthy of remark, that the best German wines are at preseint grown beyond the line which has been assigned for the successful cul- tivation of the vine in France. The course of the Ehine between Mentz and Coblentz is confined within steep banks which abound in strata propitious to the vine, and which rising occasionally into lofty hills, especially towards the northern side, afford the fairest aspects for its cultivation. On both sides of the river, acprdingly, we behold extensive ranges of vineyards, yielding a profusion of excellent wines, supporting a numer- ous population, and giving an air of richness and animation to the scenery, which forms an agreeable contrast to the ruins of feudal magnificence that crown the principal heights. The choicest vintages, however, are limited to a small portion of this dis- trict, called the Ehinegau, extending on the right bank of the river from Wallauf, a little below Mentz, to Eudesheim, and including a space of rather more than nine English miles in length, by about four in breadth ; but the produce of some of the vineyards above Mentz, particularly of those at Hocheim, on the banks of the Mayn, is usually classed with the best Ehine wines, being of nearly equal excellence. For the white wines, which constitute by far the greater portion of those made in Germany, the grapes are separated from the stalks, and fermented in casks, by which means the aroma is fully pre- served. The wine is freed from the lees by sue- 106 WINES OF GERMANY. cessive rackings, and when sufficiently clarified, is introduced into tuns, where it is allowed to mellow, and continues to improve during a long term of years. Those used in the Ehinegau hold about four hundred gallons ; but in other parts of Ger- many they are of much larger capacity, the largest of which holds about two hundred and fifty pipes, being upwards of 3,000 gallons. Formerly the great proprietors vied with each other in the mag- nitude of the vessels in which they collected and preserved . the produce of their vineyards ; and as the better growths are valued in proportion to their age, the stock of wines in the cellars belonging to the princes, magistrates, and richer orders of monks, was often enormous. Most persons have heard of the Heidelberg tun and other immense casks, in which they have been kept for whole centuries. Nor is such a mode of preserving vintages so ab- surd as some have supposed ; for the stronger wines are undoubtedly improved by it to a greater degree than they could have been by an opposite system of management. But in practising this method it is essential, in the first place, to keep the vessels always full ; and secondly, when any portion of the contents are drawn off, to replace it with wine of the same growth, or as nearly resembling it as possible. When such cannot be had, the vacant space may be filled up by introducing washed pebbles into the casks. For the more delicate growths, however, small vessels are certainly pre- ferable. But in all cases when the wine has at- WIlfES OF GEBMANY. 107 tained a proper maturity in cask, it should be put into bottle. The wines of the Ehine may be regarded as constituting a, distinct order by themselves. Some of the lighter sorts, indeed, resemble very much the vins de grave; but in general they are drier than the French white wines, and are characterized by a delicate flavor and aroma, called in the country gdre, which is quite peculiar to them, and of which it would therefore be in vain to attempt the descrip- tion. A notion prevails that they are naturally acid ; and the inferior kinds no doubt are so ; but this is not the constant character of the Ehine wines, which in good years, have not any perceptible acid- ity to the taste — at least not more than is common to them with the growths of warmer regions. Acids are supposed to generate gout, yet the gout is a- disease rarely known on the banks of the Ehine, where hardly any other wine is drunk. The Ehine wines, when new, contain little more than half the quantity of alcohol which is usually found in the strong white wines of the south ; and as this quantity is often reduced by long keeping so low as seven or eight per cent., it is evident that the conservative power does not reside in the spirit- uous principle of these liquors. Their dryness and brilliancy prove that the saccharine matter and su- perfluous leaven have been entirely precipitated. The preservative quality in these wines is said to be in the free tartaric acid which they contain ; and al- though by very long keeping the wine becomes 108 WINES OP GEEMAUT. more acid ttan before, yet the acidity is very dis- tinct from that of vinegar, and by no means un- grateful to the palate ; while the color is heightened from a pale yellow to a bright amber hue, and the peculiar aroma and flavor are more fully developed ; thus showing that no other changes have taken place than the dispersion of part of the spirit, and the concentration of the remaining liquor. In unfavorable seasons these wines are found to contain an excess of malic acid, and are consequent- ly liable to those imperfections which are attendant on the presence of that ingredient. The produce of warm, dry seasons, is of almost indefinite duration, and their flavor and aroma improve by long keep- ing; hence they are always in great demand. Among the most esteemed of such vintages may be named 1788, 1800, 1802, 1811, 1822, 1834, 1844, 1846. Johannisberger Is at the head of Ehinegau wines, and grown on the south side of the hill of that name, a little below Mentz, which was first planted by the monks of the Abbey of Johannisberg, about the end of the elev- enth century. The soil is composed of the debris of various-colored stratified marl. The grapes are gathered as late as possible. The choicest produce is called Schloss Johannisberg, and is indebted for its celebrity to its high flavor and perfume, and the almost total absence of acidity. Formerly the best exposures of the hill were the property of the WINES OF GEEMANY. 109 Bishop of Fdlda, and it was only by favor that a few bottles of the prime vintages could be obtained from his lordship's cellar. On the secularization of the ecclesiastical states, the Prince of Orange became possessor of the domain ; since then it passed into the hands of Prince Metternieh. Fur- ther changes have subsequently taken place, arising out of the political troubles of Europe, during which a considerable quantity of the wine has come into market: but a portion of that which grows at the foot of the hill is always to be had ; and even this is preferable in point of flavor to most of the other Ehine wines, and bears a high price. Steinherger. Next to Johannisberg may be ranked the pro- duce of this vineyard, which belonged to the sup- pressed monastery of Ederbach, and is now the property of the Grand Duke of Nassau. It is the strongest of all the Rhine wines, and in favora- ble years has much sweetness and delicacy of flavor. That of 1811 is compared by Ritter to the drier kind, of Lunel, and has been sold on the spot as high as five and a half florins, or nearly three dol- lars the bottle. Rudesheimer. This wine grows on the hill opposite Bingen, and in some instances has been preferred to the Steinberg. The rock here is composed of micaceous schist, in many places entirely denuded ; and the 110 WINES OF GEEMANT. acclivity is so steep that it has been necessary to form a great part of it into terraces, and to carry up in baskets the requisite quantity of vegetable mould and manure. The Orleans grape is chiefly cultivat- ed, yielding a wine which combines a high flavor with much body, and is freer from acidity than most of the other growths of the Ehine. This may be partly attributed to the favorable exposure, which allows the grapes to ripen fully, and also to the lateness of the vintage, which seldom com- mences till the end of October or the beginning of November. Some of the Eiidesheim Hinterhauser, and Riidersheimer Berg, approach in excellence to the Johannisberg. The vineyard of Gbafenbeeg, which was ano- ther appanage of the wealthy convent of Ederbach, but of much less extent than Steinberg, is still dis- tinguished by the choiceness of its growths. Those of Marcobeunner, in the same neighborhood, and of Eothenberg near Geisenheim, afford wines which are prized for their softness and delicate flavor. All the preceding wines described are white. Of red wines, the only kind worthy of notice in Ehinegau is grown at Asmanhausen, a little below Eiidesheim. In good years it is scarcely inferior to some of the better sorts of Burgundy; but the quantity pro- duced is small, and other wines are often substituted under its name. WINES OF GERMANY. Ill Hockheimer * Is strictly speaking a Mayn wine : but a corrup- tion of its name has long furnished the appellation by which the first growths of the Ehine are usually designated in this country. The two chief vine- yards at Hockheim were in former times the prO' perty of the Bean of Mentz, and are very limited in extent ; but the surrounding lands yield an abun- dant produce, which, as in the case of other wines, often passes for the first rate. The soils are com- posed of a white or brown marl, mixed with fine gravel, and reposing in some cases on strata of coal, which in hot and dry seasons is said to impart a particular flavor to the wine. Moselle, Except in very favorable seasons this wine in respect of quality generally falls into the rank of the preceding. But the produce of certain spots on the banks of the river, such as Braunenberg, Piesport, and Zeltingen, is often of superior quality. The better sorts are clean and dry, with a light pleasant flavor and high aroma, not unlike that of the best Grave wines; but sometimes contracts a slaty taste from the strata on which they grow. They arrive at maturity in five or six years ; though * Hock is the contraction of Hockamore, which, again, is evi- dently a corruption of Hockheimer, according to English accent and pronunciation. 112 WINES OF GERMANY. when made in favorable years, they will keep twice that time without experiencing any deterioration. Among the Ehenish wines, commonly so called, the Liebfrauenmilch, which is grown near Worms, and the Scarlachberger, from the neighborhood of Bingen, rank as the best kinds, and possess con- siderable body, flavor, and aroma. Those of Nier- stein, Laubenheim, and Bodenheim, are of a lighter quality, but have a delicate perfume and taste ; some are of opinion that the Marcobrunner, Eiidesheimer, and Niersteiner, possess more fulness and body, but the Johannisberg, Geissenheim, and Hockheim, give the most perfect delicacy and aroma. The great durability of Hock wines is attribut- able to the exact balance of the constituent parts, which renders the fermentation perfect, and the consequent diiSculty of deranging their af&nities. There is something unaccountable in the extraor- dinary durability of wines grown so far to the north, where the slightest increase of warmth in a season causes such a difference in the quality of the wine. While strong southern wines suffer from age after a certain period of years in bottle, and begin to deteriorate sensibly, the Ehine wines seem possessed of inextinguishable vitality, and set the greater part of rivalry in keeping at defiance. Spurious and inferior growths of Hock wines are frequently represented and sold for genuine and first growths, but these can be easily detected by good judges; all genuine wines possess a bouquet like the French, which is evidence of their purity WINES OF GERMANY. 113 and excellence. The real golden wine of the Ehine is not to be matched by any imitation ; it is excel- lent and very wholesome when mature. It enlivens without inebriating, cheers without too much stimu- lus, and strengthens while it warms the stomach. "Good Hock," the Germans say, "keeps off the doctor," and there is little doubt of this being true. CHAPTER XII. OP THE WINES OP THE CANARIES. INTKOD0OTION OF THE VINE — HOWELL's DESCRIPTION OF CANARY — VIDONIA — MALVASIA — SACK — TENEKIFFE . The vine was introduced into the Canary islands from the Rhine in the sixteenth century, during the reign of Charles Y. Of the Canary wine, Howell, who writes in the sixteenth century, assures us it " is accounted the richest, the most firm, the best bodied, and last- ingest wine, and the most defecated from all earthly grossness of any other whatsoever." " French wines," he continues, " may be said to pickle meat in the stomach, but this is the wine that digests, and doth not only breed good blood, but it nutrifleth also, being a glutinous substantial liquor. Of this wine, if of any other, may be verified that merry induction, that good wine makes good blood, good blood causeth good humors, good humors cause good thoughts, good thoughts bring forth good works, good works carry a man to heaven. If this be true, surely more English go to heaven this way than any WINES OF THE CANARIES. 115 other ; for I think there is more Canary brought into England than all the world besides." Vidonia Is properly the dry Canary wine ; it is supposed to be derived from the vidogna grape, or is a corrup- tion of Verdona, a green wine of good body. It improves by age and resembles inferior Madeira. The Malvasia or Malmsey is an excellent sweet wine, rich and perfect of its kind, and formerly in high repute. The term Sack was originally applied to thb rich and dry wines of Canary. Teneriffe. This wine is superior in body and flavor to Vidonia, resembling Madeira also, but much inferior to it : the consumption of it as well as Vidonia has much decreased, owing to the introduction of cheap Madeiras and Marsala. CHAPTER XIII. OF THE WIISTBS OP ITALY. THE NATTJKAL CAPABILITIES OF THE COUNTET GKOSSLY NEGLECTED — WINE GROWERS MORE INTENT ON QUANTITY THAN QUALITY — THE MANUFACTUEE OF WINES COHDUCTED IN A SLOVENLY CARELESS MANNER — WINES OF AST! — LACKYMA CHRISTI. Of all the countries in Europe, Italy might be expected to produce the choicest wines. Its genial climate, and the long range of mountains which extend from the foot of the Alps to the extremity of Calabria, present in their course every variety of soil and exposure the best adapted to the culture of the grape. But, as generally happens, where nature is most bountiful, man becomes unmindful of her gifts, and ceases to improve the advantages of his situation according to his means and ability. In more north- ern latitudes, the utmost skill and industry are re- quired to protect the vine from injury : but in Italy, where it grows almost spontaneously, and an early summer secures the full maturity of its fruit, little labor and attention are necessary to produce an abundant vintage. Even in these situations where the proprietor is induced to bestow more care on its WINES OF ITALY. 117 culture, the vine still appears but a secondary object ; being usually trained to pollard elms, poplars or mulberry trees, with Indian corn or olive trees be • tween the rows. In certain provinces it is raised on poles or trellises, but allowed to shoot up to the height of ten or fifteen feet ; in very few places is it pruned according to the more approved method. If appearance alone were studied, the bold and stunted vines of Burgundy and Champagne must yield to those of Italy, where they are allowed to send forth their foliage full and broken, and their branches entwining round each other, and occasion- ally forming festoons from tree to tree contribute to variegate and adorn the landscape. But unfor- tunately, as we have seen, the quality of the wine is always in the inverse ratio of such exuberance of growth, and so rooted is the common prejudice in its favor, that this mode of culture is still practised, notwithstanding its many disadvantages. It often happens that the vines are planted in the corn land, and the corn is grown on steep and rocky soil which scarcely doubles the seed, the meadows covered with woods, while the woodlands are left bare — the result of this course is that the wine is abundant, the fodder and corn frequently scarce. In spite of all these errors in the culture of the vine, the great superiority of the climate would probably still insure a high rank to the Italian wines, if more skill were displayed in the manufacture of them. But on this point the ignorance, the obsti- nacy, and the carelessness of the natives, are almost 118 WINES OF ITALY. incredible. No pains are taken to seperate tlie dif- ferent species of grapes, either in the planting or in the vintage ; they are gathered indiscriminately often before they are ripe, no nicety or cleanliness is shown in conducting the process of making, or in removing the liquor into the cask ; in short, the wine is often spoiled irrecoverably, before it has left the vat. Throughout almost the whole of Italy the grapes are gathered too early ; the must is put into small and dirty vessels, and left to all the conse- quences of a careless and destructive fermentation. This being the usual mode of conducting vintage operations in Italy, we may readily see the impossi- bility of these wines sustaining a sea voyage and keeping in this climate — short sighted avarice makes the farmers in all cases more intent on quantity than quality. The topography of the ancient vineyards, there- fore, will afford us but little insight into the charac- ters of the modern Italian wines. The Falernum and Csecuban, which inspired the muse of Horace, and warmed the heart of Cato, have disappeared from the soil ; and the Ehseticum, which called forth the eulogy of Yirgil, as being second only to Falernum, would now be sought for in vain in the Veronese territory. In the Papal states the light white muscadine wines of Albano and Monte Fiascone, and the red and white wines of Orvieto, are the only kinds deserving of particular notice ; but as they do not bear distant carriage, they are seldom met with out of the country. WINES OF ITALY; 119 Some good qualities are made at Asti in Pied- mont which bear sea carriage to this country, and drink well ; the best of these is Malvagia. Bianco, a white sparkling wine, which is considered superior to the ordinary grades of Champagne; the red wines ISTebiolo and Barbera are also excellent; some of the latter have a luscious aromatic flavor but without being cloying to the palate, as its sweetness is generally tempered with an agreeable sharpness and astringency, termed " dolce piccante." The best wines of Italy are found in the king- dom of Naples — the soil there being volcanic is eminently adapted for the vine. These wines are chiefly of the luscious kind. Laa-yma Ghristi Is the most celebrated of the Italian wines; it is grown on the volcanic soils of Vesuvius, and there are three principal sorts; viz., Lacryma Ohristi, a red luscious wine, better known by name than in reality, as it is made but in small quantity and chiefly reserved for the royal cellars ; also a musca- dine of a rich amber color and fragrant aroma; and thirdly. Vino Grseco, a sweet wine deriving its appellation from the grape that yields it. The best Lacryma is that of Monte Somma and Galitte ; but many of the second rate wines made in the vicinity, as those of Pozzuolo, Ischia, Nola, Ottagona, Novel- la, and Torre del Grseco, take the name of Lacryma, and pass in commerce for the first growths. 120 WINES OF ITALY. It has been remarked that no two travellers agree about the merit of Italian wines. This often arises from the same names being adopted in differ- ent Italian states for wines of very opposite qualities. There is a I'ino santo, for example, in the Roman states, and a vino Grseco. There are wines of the same name in Naples. Even a wretched Veronese wine, truly " vino debolissimo e di niuna stima " is called "vino santo," while there is an excellent " vino santo " at Brescia. It is the same with sev- eral of the most noted wines of Italy, and unless the place of growth be annexed as well as the name, one traveller will praise a wine of the same appella- tion as that which another pronounces execrable. Without extenuating the observations made in the preceding part of this chapter on the wines of It- aly, it cannot be denied but that she produces good wines as well as bad ; yet the greater portion of them being imperfectly made do not possess durability, and are therefore unsuited for export to foreign countries ; yet in particlar districts it is by no means a rare thing to meet with good durable wine, as in some instances much care is bestowed on its manufacture. The general neglect of a careful and just system of culture, and the want of that excitement which in- terest creates, have not prevented the capabilities of the Italian vineyards from being known; still the political condition of the country paralyzes industry, the curses of a foreign yoke and domestic exaction blight the most active exertions, and render that land, which is the gem of the earth in natural gifts, WINES OP ITALY. 121 a waste, a neglected and despoiled heritage to its inhabitants. The Italians would soon make good wine, if good wine would repay the making — if they might reap that reward due to industry and improvement, which common policy would not withhold in other countries. The peasantry gener- ally are not an idle race. CHAPTER XIV. OF THE WINES OE SICILY. GREAT IGNORANCE AND NEGLECT DISPLAYED IN THE CULTIVATION OF THE VINE, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WINE — SICILY MADEIRA — SYRACUSE — MESSINA — VAL DI MAZARA. To the wines of Sicily the observations which have been offered on the general character of those of Italy, apply in full force. The same advantages for the growth, and the same imperfections in the treatment of the vine ; the same errors in the fermentation, and the same inattention to cleanli- ness; in short, the same ignorance, obstinacy, and slovenliness, are displayed throughout the whole system of management, and, as might be expected, are productive of nearly the same results. Never- theless, the vintages of several spots maintain their ancient repute, and the total produce of the island is considerable. The white wines are most numer- ous and by far the best ; they resemble Lisbon or the lighter kinds of Madeira. Many of the red wines are extremely coarse, and have a disagreeable taint of pitch. I^he hills at the foot of Mount Etna may be regarded as one vast vineyard, producing a WINES OF SICILY. 123 great variety of wines, according to tie different soils and exposures. Marsala or Sicily Madeira Is the chief wine that commerce has yet fur- nished other countries from Sicily; it derives its name from Marsala, the port from whence it is ship- ped, and in the neighborhood of which it is grown. It is a dry wine, the best qualities similar to light Madeira of an inferior quality. It is coarse and pungent, and its consumption seems to be more owing to its cheapness than to any other cause. Syracuse produces over its mouldering remains a red muscadine equal to any in the world, if not superior. Messina furnishes much wine for expor- tation. The Val di Mazara and its vineyards give wines known in England. Augusta produces wine having a strong flavor of violets. None of the wines of Sicily have obtained much repute in for- eign countries, owing to the causes already named, bad husbandry, and the careless mode in which the vintage operations are conducted. Since the closer connection of Great Britain with this country took place, the wines have materially improved. CHAPTER XV. OF THE WINES OP HUNGARY. EARLY INTKODUCTION OF THE VINE — QUALITY OF WINES SUPEKIOK — QUANTITY CONSIDERABLE — TOKAY — TOKAY AUSBRUOH — TOKAY MASLAS — MODE OF MANUFACTURE — EXTRAVAGANT PRICES RELATIVE AND INTRINSIC QUANTITY AND VALUE. It is supposed that ihe vine was introduced into Hungary by the Emperor Probus, about the third century, or that it passed from Transylvania and came into the country from the northwest of Asia. That the vine was unknown when Hungary was under the dominion of the Huns, is certain, as his- tory states that in the verses written by a Chinese princess who was married to a Tanjou or Hungarian chief, she laments that sour milk was her only drink, raw flesh her only food, and a tent her only palace. At the time of Attila's conquest in the fifth century, wine it appears was a common beverage, as it is spoken of with much familiarity on the occasion of the feasts given to that monarch as described by Gibbon. But the exact period of its introduction is not, perhaps, a matter of much importance for us to determine, as the success with which the plant has "WINES OF HUNGARY. 125 been cultivated has rendered it one of tlie first wine countries of Europe. The wines of Hungary have long enjoyed a well- merited fame, and although no great variety is known at least of such wines as go to foreigners by exporta- tion, they rank so high in the highest class of products of the vintage, that they have borne the name of Hun- garian wine far beyond where it has ever been tasted or seen. Hungary produces upwards of one half the quan- tity of wine grown in the whole Austrian empire, and somewhat less than one third of the quantity produced annually in France. The vineyards which produce the best wines are those of Ofen, Pesth, Tokay, the Syrmia in the South, Grroswarden, Brlon, and Warwitz, in the Bannat. The consumption in the country is very considerable, and a great deal is exported. The great fair for the wines of Hungary is held annually at Pesth, and great encouragement is given by the government to vine cultivation. The Hungarians enjoy their wine, and generally carry a flask on their journeys, called Csutora. Their songs dwell much on their wine of Tokay ; they sing that their " Muses young and laughing Dwell in vineyards of Tokay." TOKAY. This wine is the most celebrated ; and derives its name from an inconsiderable town in High Hun- 126 WINES OF HUNGAET. gary, and is the produce of various vineyards in the tract of country which extends twenty-five or thirty miles to the northwest of Tokay, and is called the Hegallya, or Submoiitine district. Tokay acquired no great fame till abou^t the year 1650, in consequence of the improved method of preparing it from picked and half dried grapes, which appears to have been then practised for the first time. The strata are all volcanic, and the best wines are grown on soils formed of black trapp, or decomposed porphyry, porcelain clay, and feld- spar. When the vines are planted they are cut down at a knot, within a span from the ground, and the superfluous young shoots are pruned at the same place every spring. In order that the fruit may at- tain its fullest ripeness, the vintage is delayed as long as possible, seldom commencing till the end of Octo- ber, or the beginning of November ; by which time, in favorable seasons, a considerable number of the grapes have become shrivelled or half dried. These are called trockenbeeren, or dry grapes, being chiefly supplied by the above-mentioned species of vine; and as it is on them that the luscious qualities of the Tokay wines depend, they are carefully separat- ed from the rest. When a sufficient quantity has been collected, they are introduced into a cask, the bottom of which is perforated with small holes ; and the juice which exudes from them without any further pressure than what proceeds from their own weight, constitutes the syrupy liquor termed. WINES OF HUKGARY. 127 Tokay Essence. This essence keeps without any further prepara- tion, and is highly valued; though it always re- mains thick and muddy. Tokay Aushnuih. This is the next variety of wine, to obtain which the trocJcenbeeren are trodden with the feet, and a portion of mtist from common grapes is poured over them — ^the quantity varying according to the nature of the grapes and the quality of the wine desired ; being for the richer sort 61 parts of essence and 84 parts of wine. By this addition the aromatic prin- ciple, which in some of the Tokay grapes is very powerful, becomes more fully extracted from the skins. The mixture is now stirred strongly, and the hulls and seeds which rise to the surface are separated by means of a net or sieve. It is then covered over, and in forty-eight hours generally begins to ferment. The fermentation is allowed to continue three days or more, according to the state of the weather; and during its continuance the miost is stirred morning and evening, and the seeds carefnlly taken out. "When the process is thought to have sufficiently advanced, the liquor is strained through a cloth or sieve into the barrels in which it is to be kept ; but it does not become bright before the end of the following year. 128 WINES OF HUNGARY. Tohay Maslas Eesernbles the former, and is made precisely in the same manner, differing only in the proportion of its constituents — it contains 61 parts of essence and 169 parts of wine. When new, the Tokay wines are of a brownish yellow color, and exhale an odor which has been com- pared to the smell of the pumpernickel (a species o'f bread used in some parts of Germany, and made of unbolted rye). When very old, the color is said to change to greenish. It has so peculiar a flavor of the aromatic kind, and is so luscious, that the taste is not easily forgotten ; it also has a slight harshness, perceptible to the palate, which is highly esteemed in some parts of Europe — its durability is very great, some of it having kept good for a century. It is highly odoriferous. "I have drunk," says Dr. Von Deresjen, " some Tokay that was forty years old ; and which, on being poured into the glass, imme- diately filled the whole room with an aromatic ethereal odor." Although it abounds in saccharine matter, yet undergoing but an incomplete fermenta- tion, it is sometimes apt to fret and spoil, especially when the produce of wet seasons, and of grapes that have contracted any degree of mouldiness. The mode of making Tokay is after the manner of some of the ancient wines. An impression prevails that real Tokay is to be had only from the vineyards in the possession of the Emperor of Austria ; but this is erroneous, as it WINES OF EUNGAEY. 129 is well known that from the vineyards in the pos- session of the nobles and land owners, wine equally excellent is produced. The Tokay wine certainly is enormously dear, and even in Vienna it is rarely to be tasted. The practice of mingling the essence with the common wines has given the latter a cele- brity which they scarcely deserve, and lessened the quantity of the essence sold. It is occasionally to be purchased in Vienna, but at enormous prices, $60 to $175 per dozen having been given for it ; an ex- emperor of Austria Was known to pay so high as seven ducats the bottle for 2,000 bottles of Tokay ; and at the late Duke of Queensbury's sale, several years since, in London, the Tokay in his cellars realized the extravagant sum of $50 per bottle, about $5 the glass ! I The value of Tokay is an example of the caprice of taste or fashion in wine. The rich muscadine of Syracuse, the Malmsey of Madeira, the lagrima of Ma- laga, the Paxaretta of Xerez, and the Constantia of the Cape of Good Hope, are in many respects its equal?,, and by some esteemed superior to Tokay — its singu- larity of flavor distinguishes it from these wines, yet that flavor has nothing more than its singularity to recommend it,, and, in point of purity and perfection, it certainly cammot be ranked with the highest grades of Claret, Burgundy, and Ehine wines. Few persons would prefer Tokay to wines very much its inferior in fame, did they dare to contradict the de- cision of fashion in its favor. Almost all the wines sold as Ausbruch Tokay, 9 130 WINES OF HUNGAEY. are the produce of the Tokay vineyards in general. St. Gyorgy, OEdenburgh, nine German miles from Presburg, and Bust, Menez, in the county of Arad, a*nd other vineyards, produce an Ausbruch Tokay of tolerable character. Gysengysesch, near Mount Matra, produces red and white wines. The wine of Buda is red, and was once a favorite wine in England. The Sexard resembles Bordeaux ; the Groswarden wine is of excellent body ; Warwitz, in the Bannat, produces wine which resembles Burgundy. The red Meneser Ausbruch, so called from the village of Menes, is by some preferred to Tokay. There are numerous other wines, both white and red, of a quality that entitles them to rank with those of any country; they are free from acidity, and combine with a delicious aroma and bouquet, a delicacy and flavor rarely met with except in the first growth French and German wines. CHAPTER XVI. OF THE "WINES OF GBEECE. CLIMATE AND SOIL HIGHLY PROPITIOUS — SYSTEM OF MANUFACTURE BAD — CYPRUS — COMMANDARIA, ITS FABULOUS RESTORATIVE PROPERTIES GREAT DURABILITY — WINES OF THE SMALLER GREEK ISLANDS. Theoughodt nearly the -whole of Greece, the soil is highly favorable to the vine, and there is no country on earth which yields such abundance of luscious fruit. On the continent, the extensive ranges of mountains, which intersect the country, are chiefly calcareous. The variety of climate and choice ex- posures, which the elevated grounds present, serve to diversify, to an infinite degree, the quality of the wines obtained ; and in many districts the method pursued in the cultivation of the vine must be acknowledged to be far from injudicious. It is cut nearly to the root, and allowed to extend its branches laterally ; and in the best vineyards the employment of manure is avoided. Nothing, in short, is wanting to procure a superior wine, but a more skilful treat- ment of the vintage, and the abandonment of those deleterious mixtures, which in conformity to long- 132 WIlirES OF GREECE. established prejudices, are still very generally resort- ed to. The grapes for the most part are gathered indiscriminately, and thrown into an open cistern, where they are exposed to the full influence of the atmosphere ; and as they are often half dry before they are trodden, a quantity of water is added to them in order to facilitate fermentation. Salt, bak- ed gypsum, and lime, are used to correct the sweet- ness of the liquor ; and a portion of rosin is com- monly introduced, as in ancient times, to imitate the pungency of old wines. In some places, the product of the fermentation is collected in skins smeared with tar, which imparts a disagreeable flavor, and renders it unfit for use, until it has been mellowed by long keeping ; but the poverty of the farmers will seldom allow them to adopt the proper means for preserving their wines. Hence it comes that the lighter growths often turn entirely acid in the course of a few months after the vintage ; and only the stronger wines will keep beyond the year. In those situations, however, which have been favored by commerce, and where subterraneous cellars have been formed, wines of considerable age may be occasionally met with. Gypnis. The best Greek wines are luscious and sweet. Cyprus produces the finest and most celebrated of this description — the hills on which the vine is culti- vated are covered with stones or flints, and a black- ish earth mixed with ochrous veins. Agros and WINES OF GREECE. 183 Limassal produce the finest muscadine wines of Cyprus, some of whicli possess the consistence of oil, and may be kept to a great age ; they are rich dessert wines of excessive sweetness, and drink best at one or two years of age. Gommandaria, So called as being the produce of a domain belong- ing to the Knights of Malta, and is held in the greatest estimation among the natives; it is a sweet wine, improving in delicacy and flavor in proportion to its age, and when forty years in cask is considered a balm. The wine of this island is famous all over the Levant. When new it is red ; but as it advances in age it grows tawny, nevertheless continuing to improve, till it surpasses almost all the other wines of the country. The Cyprians say when this wine is old it is a remedy for the tertian and quartan agues so prevalent in the island ; and to use the hyperboli- cal language of the Greeks, it is said to possess the power of restoring youth to age, and animation to those who are at the point of death. The age of Cyprus wine may be known by pour- ing it into a glass, and observing whether particles like oil adhere to the side ; this cannot be produced by art. Cold is injurious to this wine; it should be placed before a fire, if drank in the north during autumn or winter. When in bottle for ten or twelve years, it more resembles Tokay essence than any other wine, but the Cyprians prefer keeping it in 134 WINES OF GEEEOE. casks, where although exposed to the air it will keep good for any number of ^ears. These wines, it is most probable, have under- gone little or no change since the days of Strabo and Pliny, who reckon them amongst the most valuable in the world, and they keep good for an almost inde- finite period. After the conquest of Cyprus by the Turks, some of the wine found there was eighty years old ; it was sent to the Seraglio as a great rarity — it would kindle in the fire and burn like oil. It is stated of the Emperor Selim II., that he conquered Cyprus on account of its delicious wines, remarking on that occasion to Mustapha his general, " I propose to conquer Cyprus, an island which contains a treas- ure that none but the King of kings ought to pos- sess." Most of the smaller Greek islands produce wine. Naxos was formerly noted for its drunkards and its temple of Bacchus. At Pirgo much wine was made about a century since. At Nicaria a white wine, very remarkable as a diuretic, is made from vines which grow among the rocks. Milo has frequently exported wine to the other islands. Samos, the wine of which was thought in ancient times to be bad, is now noted for excellent Muscat ; large quantities of vines are grown there ; both red and white are manufactured, and Samian wine is held in considera- ble repute. Tenedos produces both dry and sweet wines ; its muscadine is famous, and its annual ex- portation is considerable. Santorini is remarkable for the sulphureous taste borne by its wine when new. "WINES OF GEEEOE. 135 and for its virw santo, which is made from white grapes exposed for seven or eight days on the roofs of the houses, then trodden or pressed, and ferment- ed in close casks ; it is a luscious wine and is princi- pally exported to Eussia. The wine of Meconi is so mingled with water to increase the quantity that few will purchase it. Scio still produces wine ' called Homer's nectar, as it did two thousand years ago; the white and black grapes are mingled to make this wine, which is in much esteem in the Archipel- ago. There is another kind, called Nectar, which until matured by age, strangers cannot relish — the grape is said to be styptic. Mista is the most renown- ed vineyard. The manufacture of the Greek wines generally, is similar to the mode practised by the ancients two thousand years ago ; the most of them are nauseous to foreigners, and unfit for consumption in these countries. The Ionian Islands, as they are styled, which are in the possession of England, grow some good wines, whenever proper care is exerted in the management of the vintage. CHAPTER XVII. OF THE "WINES OE PERSIA. PERSIA THE NATIVE COUNTRY OF THE VINE — SECRET AND EXCES- SIVE INDULGENCE OF THE TURKS AND MOHAMMEDANS — VARIE- TIES MADE AT SHIRAZ — GREAT SIMILARITT TO MADEIRA. Persia ia supposed to be tlie native country of the vine ; and this opinion seems to receive confirmation from the extraordinary perfection to which its fruit there attains. Grapes every where abound, and their quality is excellent. At Shiraz, they are described as growing to a size and fullness hardly to be equal- led in other climates. The Mohammedan religion, prohibiting the use of wine to its followers, tends to restrict the manu- facture to those places where the Jews, Armenians, or Hindoos, form part of the population. But the Persians have always been less scrupulous observers of this precept of the Koran, than the other Mussul- mans ; and several of their kings, unable to resist the temptation, or conceiving themselves above the law, have set an example of drunkenness, which has been very generally followed by their subjects. Many Persians indulge secretly in wine, and WINES OF PERSIA. 187 generally to excess ; as they can imagine no pleasure in its use, unless it produce the full delirium of intoxication, and flatter themselves they diminish the sin, by drinking only such as is made by infidels. The Jews and Armenians prepare wine on purpose for the Mohammedans by adding lime, hemp, and other ingredients, to increase its pungency and strength ; for the wine that soonest intoxicates is counted the best, and the lighter and more delicate kinds are held in no estimation among the adherents of the prophet. The Turks, both in Persia and the neighboring countries, when they take the forbidden draught, laugh at Christians for mingling water with it ; and yet if they but spill a single drop upon their own garments, however valuable they may be, they im- mediately throw them away as polluted ; they always intoxicate themselves, for which purpose the wines are drugged as already described. Tavernier says, that Shah Abbas II. was much addicted to wine, but did not on that account neglect state affairs. Sir John Chardin states much the same, and informs us that his successor, Solyman, loved wine and women to great excess, and being always drank, was exceedingly cruel in consequence. His son Hussein Abbas, was so struck with the ill effects of wine, probably from his father's example, that he forbade the use of it in his dominions, until his mother feigned illness, and her physicians declared that nothing but wine could save her life, on which he became, as his two predecessors had been, a slave 138 WINES OF PERSIA. to the love of the juice of the grape ; and the result was more fatal to Hussein than it proved to them. The Armenians at Chialful were formerly great drunkards, though not profane or quarrelsome in their cups, like their fellow-christians who drink port wine, but instead were doubly devotional, and when very much intoxicated poured forth incessant prayers to the Virgin. The principal vineyards are in the environs of Shiraz, and are situated at the foot of the mountains to the northwest of the town, where the soil is rocky, and the exposure extremely favorable. The vines are kept low, but occasionally supported by stakes. No wine under one name possesses such a variety of qualities as Shiraz : the best white wine should taste a little sweet, accompanied with the flavor of dry Madeira, to which, when old, it is not at all in- ferior, in the opinion of some who drank it in the country ; but others say that it scarcely deserves to be classed with the best growths of that wine. Of late years, the manufacture of wine, even at Shiraz, has been neglected, and it is much to be feared that the produce of the still has taken its place with the Mohammedans in their covert obla- tions to Bacchus. CHAPTER XVIII. OF THE WINES OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. THEIR INFERIOR QUALITIES — CONSTANTIA AND CAPE HOCK EXCEP- TIONS. These wines hardly merit a passing notice ; the greatest proportion of them are execrable, and would be utterly unknown were it not that being the pro- duce of the British possessions in Southern Africa, they are admitted into Great Britain on the payment of one half the duties chargeable on other wines. The soil is uncongenial to the plant, and the dirty slovenly mode in which the wine is manufactured renders it any thing but agreeable to the palate. The only exceptions deserving notice are the growths of Constantia and a wine called Cape Hock ; the soil in this locality is of a better quality than in the other vineyards, consisting chiefly of decompos- ed sand-stone. The vintage, too, is conducted with greater care ; the grapes being picked and freed from the stalks and other impurities, before they are pressed. As the whole quantity of sweet wine made in the two vineyards does not exceed one hundred pipes, the price is necessarily high. 140 WINES OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Although the vintages of Constantia are exempt from any disagreeable taste, and are deservedly es- teemed for their surpassing richness, yet in point of flavor and aroma they yield to the muscadine wines of Languedoc, and the Malmsies of Paxaretta and Malaga. It is chiefly, therefore, owing to their vari- ety and extreme costliness that they have acquired such celebrity. CHAPTER XII MISCELLANIES. VOTUM THEOLOGICtJM — VINO SANTO — PUKE JUICE — VIN DE LIQUEUK VIN FOtr — FROZEN WINE — DIBS — COVEKlNtt WINES — BOILED WINES — TERMS. Vinuin Theologicum. For a long time the choicest growths, not only in France, but in other countries, were raised on lands belonging to the church ; and the vinum theologicum was justly held superior to all other wines. The rich chapters and monasteries were always more stu- dious of the quality than of the quantity of their vint- ages ; their grounds were tilled with the greatest care, and their vines were managed in the most ju- dicious manner ; nor did they reject a plant that bore but sparingly, provided there was no falling off in the goodness of the wine which it supplied. Moreover, in the middle ages it is well known that the clergy were almost the sole depositories of learning ; and the continued opportunities of obser- vation and study which their retired pursuits afford- ed them, had probably brought them acquainted, at 142 MISCELLANIES. a very early period, with the best methods of direct- iiag the fermentation of the grape, and meliorating the produce. When their domains passed into the hamds of laymen, the same assiduity and skill were seldom shown in the culture of the vines, or treat- ment of the vintage ; and, in many instances, the old plants which yielded the most valued wines, were rooted out, to make room for others that gave a more abundant supply, but of inferior character. After all, it is impossible that any thing approxi- mating to the truth can be known of these wines, or indeed of any wines no longer back than the middle ages. The aroma, the perfume, the exquis- ite delicacy, which distinguish the modern wines of France, were, it is very reasonable to believe, un- known two or three centuries ago. We find that the wine districts which were once celebrated are now very indiflferent, or the palates of our fore- fathers must have been much less refined than our own. That the wines of France once praised highly, and now deemed of third-rate quality, may not, in reality be much altered by time, is very probable. When the ladies of nobles made their breakfast, in England, on salt junk and strong beer as luxuries, it is very likely that the taste of the wine-drinkers on the continent, a few miles to the south, was after a pattern equally coarse, and that in reality it is modern refinement, rather than the deterioration of the wine, which induces a belief that either the climate, soil, or wine, in particular places is greatly fallen off. That a vineyard inay deteriorate from MISCELLANIES. 148 neglect or want of care, or through bad planting, there is no doubt ; and in our time, where the taste is so nicely adjusted, any declension in quality is soon perceived ; but our forefathers were hard men, and the strength, rather than the flavor of wine, was their criterion of its excellence. There is a tendency in some writers, not only those who write about the vine, but upon other sub- jects, to praise that which, from lapse of time, they can judge nothing at all about, and to ascribe to all causes but those reconcilable to reason, changes which, if not imaginary in themselves, are very easily accounted for on simple principles. There are spots in France, the wines of which it was once the fashion to praise highly, which are now deemed very inferior in rank. Fashion and taste are for ever changing, and these alone might contribute to account for what are easily to be traced up to their causes by an exertion of common sagacity. YirM Santo. At the Athenian festivals in heroic times it was the custom at the conclusion of the dinner to hand round pure wine : but before it was drunk, a portion of it was poured upon the ground or table, as an oblation to Jupiter — the wine used on these occasions was of the red sweet class, probably because it was the richest and strongest, or was the customary dessert wine. It may be remarked that the same kind of wine is still employed for sacramental pur- poses in various parts of Europe ; and the appellation 144 MISCELLANIES. of vino santo, which is given by the Italians to their most luscious growths, is probably allusive to this circumstance. Pure Juice. Wine, whatever may be its quality, sweet or dry, abounding in alcohol or weak in spirit, if it be the pure juice of the grape alone after due fermentation without the admixture of brandy, is what may be properly termed pure wine or pure juice, which term is as applicable to the dry wines of the Medoc and Ehine as to the sweet Malmsies of Spain and Madeira, or the Vins de Liqueur of France. Vins de Liqueur. What are called in France vins de liqueur, are those in which the saccharine principle has not entirely disappeared, and been changed into alcohol, during the process of fermentation. Wines of this sort abound, both red and white. Of these are the sweet wine of Cyprus, the Eivesaltes, Tokay, the Malmsies of Spain and Madeira, and similar kinds. Unfortunately, the wines sold under this name are not always genuine ; the practice of adulteration, by which the more valuable qualities of this species of wine are deteriorated, is but too common,, and it is less liable to detection than in dry wines. Vin Fou. At Moulins, in France, they make a species of wine called " vinfou,^^ or mad wine, or rather drunk- MISCELLANIES. 145 ards wine." They fill a small strong bound cask, having no bung, with miist; this they put into another cask and plunge into the vat, from -which it is not withdrawn until the fermentation ceases. This wine is very intoxicating. Frozen Wine. In some of the wine countries a custom prevails of exposing wines in large casks during the severity of the winter in the open air ; the watery particles by this means becoming frozen on the top, the vinous portion is concentrated, and the wine drawn off from the bottom of the cask is distinguished for great strength, flavor and durability. To this practice of freezing wine, Ovid in his letter to Vestalis at Rome makes allusion, and lamenting the situation he was in during exile, bitterly complains that not only was the Euxine frozen, but even the wine he was to drink. Virgil also refers to the freezing of wine, when describing the misery and hardship of a Scythian winter : " The brazen cauldrons with a frost are flawed ; The garment, stiff with ice, at heart is thawed : With axes first they cleave the wine, and thence. By weight the solid portions they dispense." Experiments made by Mr. Parks on wine expos- ed to a degree of cold 22° below the freezing point, throws a doubt upon this subject. This gentleman states that he could not find any difference in taste between the frozen and unfrozen portions, and he 10 146 MISCELLANIES. even thought the fluid part tasted more vapid than the other. The proportions were as follows. Of Port wine 560 grains froze, and 580 remained liquid. Of Sherry exposed in a similar situation, 288 grains were frozen, and 1,056 remained liquid. Dihs. This compound originated in the prohibition placed upon the use of fermented and intoxicating liquors by the Mohammedan religion. The grape juice, therefore, instead of being converted into wine is chiefly boiled down to a syrup, which under the name of " dibs" is much used in the East by all classes where there are vineyards, as a condiment with their food — the grape juice is put into large boilers, and reduced to one half or possibly one third of the original quantity. It is then removed to large earthen jars, and subjected to a process not unlike churning, which is repeated for a few days until it thickens. When properly churned or beaten, but little separation of the particles takes place. It is I'epresented to be a pleasant article for table use, and decidedly preferable to molasses ! Of this pre- paration it is said that in the first half of the eight- eenth century, three hundred camel loads, or nearly thirty thousand pounds weight, were annually sent from Hebron to Egypt. The name dibs, by which it is known in the East, is said to be the same as the original Hebrew word which in many passages of' Scripture is rendered honey. MISCELLANIES. 147 Covering Wines, In several districts in France, as well as other wine countries, the manufacture of strong dark wines, for the purpose of mixing with the lighter growths of other provinces, forms a principal branch of com- merce. To attain this object the fermentation is continued an undue length of time ; the murk is trodden in the vat, and the harsh must that is pro- cured by the operation of the press, is mixed with the first produce of the vat. Many of these wines, though abounding in strength and color, contain from the beginning the germs of a speedy decay ; the crust which by the treading in the vat had been mingled with the already fermented wine, imparts the acidity which it had contracted from the con- tact of the atmospheric air ; and the mixture of juice subsequently pressed from the murk, has the effect of adding a large quantity of mucilaginous extractive matter, which accelerates the decomposi- tion of the liquor, and it is usually deemed neces- sary to throw in a portion of brandy to check its tendency to spoil. Boiled Wines. Boiled wines {vins cuit, French, vino cotto, Italian,) themselves are of ancient date, having, it is suppos- ed passed from Asia into Greece. They are com- mon in Italy, Spain, and France. The ripest and finest grapes are selected, generally of the Musca- dine species, gathered during the hottest part of the 148 MISCELLANIES. (lay, in order that they may be free from dew, and humidity of every kind. They are carefully moved, laid upon hurdles, and exposed for five or six suc- cessive days to the sun's most ardent rays, turning them at least three or four times every day. They are then trodden out, as is the usage with the com- mon grape at the vintage. The must is placed over a clear fire, with as little smoke as possible. The wine must be boiled until it is reduced to one third of its original quan- tity. It is then skimmed and poured into clear wooden vessels to remain until cool, after which it is barrelled up close. This wine is very pleasant to to the taste, of a deep amber color, delicate and gen- erous. Corsica is famous for such wines, which are treated so judiciously by boiling, that in the north of Europe they are taken for Malmsey, and sweet Canary. When very old they are often passed off for Cyprus, Tinto or Malaga, of the best kind, as the owner may wish them to appear. Boiling is also adopted to make new wine have the appearance of old. For this purpose, it is raised in tempera- ture close to the boiling point, barrelled and bunged up directly, and in three months it is found possessed of the character of wine kept for some years. TERMS Employed in describing properties and peculiarities of Wines. Dry. — Wine that contains but a small proportion of saccharine matter — free from sweetness. MISCELLANIES. 149 Fruity. — Wine that tastes soft and fresh — neither sweet nor astringent. Green. — ^Wine that is new and harsh flavored. McUiwre. — Wine that has arrived at the point when it should be drunk. Murk. — ^The husks of the grape remaining in the vat after the wine has been drawn off. Must. — ^The juice of ripe grapes obtained by pressure. Pricked. — ^Wine that is touched with acidity. Rich. — Wine that contains a large proportion of saccharine matter. Stalky. — ^Wine that is affected with astringency and flavor of the vine wood. Woody. — Wine that has imbibed the flavor of the cask. The phrases used by the French are rather more difficult of comprehension, and it may not be aniiss here to state the chief terms applied by them to wines. Aroma Spiritueux. — ^The flavor that strikes the palate immedi- ately on tasting, similar to bonquet as the smell. Bouquet. — The aromatic odor parceived on drawing the cork of any of the finer wines, on their exposure to the air ; it is not a single perfume, but a union of several agreeable odors. Dur. — ^Wine that is harsh flavored. Event. — Wine that is flat. Ferme. — ^Wine that is durable, not likely to change. FKnir bien. — Wine that is past probability of change, and that will drink out well. Fwmeux. — ^Wine of much strength and quickly affecting the head from alcohol. Montant.—Viine that affects the head from carbonic gas. Pateux. — Wine that is thick and clammy, adhering to the mouth. Plair— Wine that is without body or spirit. Sive. — Nearly the same meaning as " aroma spirituenx.'' Veloute.—W'me of a good color, velvety on the tongue, smooth or soft, as all good wine should be when fit for drinking. CHAPTER XX. OF THE CONSEEVATION OF WIKES, AMELIORATION — AGE AND MATURITY — ^KEEPING OF WINES — WEJE CELLAR — ^FUNGI. Amelioration. Little advantage is gained by the production of a good wine, if due care be not taken to preserve it from decay, and to bring it by skilful management to tbat maturity and perfection wMch it can alone derive from age. All wines may be regarded as containing within themselves the principles of improvement as well as decay. Considerable skill and attention is neces- sarily required by the manufacturer abroad, after the first fermentation process is over, to bring the wines to the necessary stability and perfection for export (for it is right to observe that all wines undergo various changes beside the process of secondary fermentation). It may perhaps appear premature to attempt an explanation of the changes that take place in a production, of which even not all the constituent principles areas yet thoroughly known; and with our present insufficient methods • CONSERVATION OF WINES. 151 of analysis, any great approach to precision on this matter is not to be expected. Wine is known to be most liable to ascency at those seasons of the year when there is the greatest tendency to a renewal of fermentation. In Spring this effect is produced by a transition from cold to heat ; in Autumn by the frequent and sudden vicissitudes of temperature, which are common about that period, causing a corresponding expansion or condensation of the liquor, and of the air contained in the cask. The disposition to acidity is always augmented by the presence of the lees, and other impurities of the wine. Hence the necessity of racking into clean vessels before each equinox, and of fining it immediately after racking, if not suffir ciently clea;r. ■ , From a series of experiments which have been tried, it is proved that the melioration of wines in the wood is partly, If not principally, effected by the disengagement of a portion of their alcohol and water, while the remaining ingredients become more firm and concentrated; and this melioration is best accomplished in such vessels as most effectually retain the spirituous, while they allow the aqueous particles to transude. Even should the alcohol escape in the larger proportion, as appears to be the case with Rhine wines, when kept any length of time in the cask, the more delicate qualities of the wine are nevertheless materially heightened. No wines re- ceive so much improvement by evaporation as those which contain a large quantity of adventitious spirit ; 152 CONSERVATION OF WINES. hence the advantage of transporting wines of this description to a tropical chmate, or exposing them to the influence of artificial heat ; the improvement which takes place in the flavor subjected to this pro- cess is particularly striking. The rapid evaporation and strong secondary fermentation that ensues on exposure to heat, neutralizes in a great degree the acid principle in the wine. These considerations naturally lead us to the inquiry, which is of some importance, — whether large or small vessels are to be preferred for the con- servation of wines ? It is certain that the rough and strong vintages of the Rhine are most thoroughly mellowed in large casks, but that the delicate growths are most advantageously kept in small. In the latter case, however, it is obvious that the evaporation must proceed more rapidly, from the comparatively larger surface exposed; while, in the former, the secondary fermentation will be quickened by the greater bulk of the fluid. The size of the cask ought, therefore, to be determined by the nature of the process we think most likely to promote the melioration of the wine. That which is of a strong full body, and contains much mucilaginous extractive matter, like Port, will be most effectually mellowed in large tuns ; while the finer white wines, the ma- turity of which depends on the concentration of the more solid constituents, will be soonest brought to perfection in vessels of moderate capacity. It must be acknowledged, however, that no invariable rules can be laid down on this subject. Much will depend CONSERVATION OF WINES. 153 not only on the original quality of the vintage, but also on the stage of the secondary fermentation which it may have reached. When wines have attained perfection, their excellence is better con- served in small casks than large, and better again in bottle. M. Von Soemmering, after some experiments directed to ascertain if possible the actual truth, recommends that wine should be kept in glass vessels having their orifices closed with bladder. He asserts it ameliorates much quicker by that mode of treat- ment, and he took great pains to ascertain the fact. He found that water escaped through dried bladder, but that the spirituous portion of the wine would not do so with equal facility. He, therefore, prefers glass to wood, in every state of amelioration ; and covered with bladder, he asserts that wine will mel- low more in twelve months in glass, than in the cask in twelve years ; but this mode of conservation is only adapted to the strong white wines, such as Madeira and Sherry. Age and Maturity. It is a mistaken notion to suppose that the value of any wine depends upon its great age ; wines of ordinary quality arrive at maturity in a comparatively short period, and should not be kept over. Some- times brandy is added to these kind of wines to make them keep, but this only destroys their vinous pro- perties. Age softens what the French call the sive of the finer wines, or their spirituous aroma, but it is often fatal to the bouquet. Wines lose their bou- 154 CONSERVATION OF "WINES. quet by being kept too long, and there is no question, too, but that when wine begins to lose its alcoholic strength it ceases to improve in flavor. There is always a middle age, a maturity of years, so to speak, equally removed from the extremes of youth and senility, in which the finer wines should, if possible, be drunk. When they lose any thing of their vir- tues or good qualities it is certain that this maturity is past, although the wine may keep good for a long while, perhaps for many years. It is an error caught up from the notion that old axioms are indis- criminately correct, — it is an error to suppose that the wine which will keep long should only be drank when it will keep no longer. Mere age is no crite- rion of the excellence of wine, though a certain age is necessary to carry it to the state when it is best for the table. Wines differ in the quality of endu- rance, and proportionably in the time requisite for improvement. Burgundy of the first class, it is an acknowledged fact, will support itself to twenty years, but after twelve or fourteen it does not in the least improve ; and the third year in bottle, or the sixth from the vintage, is the time when it is most perfect in every good quality for which the wine is famed. Good Champagne, on the contrary, will often be found to improve for ten or fifteen years, and will support itself until thirty, and sometimes until it is forty years old. The best age for the use of this wine is about twelve years. On the other hand. Hock is not in full perfection until it is forty years old, and it will keep four times that term. The CONSEEVATION OF WINES. 156 luscious wines keep long, and the dry wines, such as Madeira, Sherry, and others of a similar class, endure for a long term. But this endurance is in no case a proof that wine, at the extreme point of its durability, is in the highest perfection ; for, on the contrary, the term age can only be rationally used when intended to comprehend the fitness of wine for drinking, and to describe that which is arrived at maturity, as the word " new" might explain wine not yet arrived at the full development of its qualities for use. Age in wine beyond the point of maturity is no virtue, although vulgarly supposed to be so. As in human beings it does not mend the subject, although it may be borne well. Keeping Wines. Wine fit to drink of its kind is an expensive luxury, especially when it counts a great age and has been matured in foreign climates; it should therefore rest well in the best adapted situation pos- sible previous to going into consumption. Neither the perfect affinity of Hock, nor the potent quality of the stronger wines, will prevent both from being affected in bad cellars ; while the delicate first-class French are completely spoiled, the red going in all cases quicker than the white. It is incredible how soon the French and Ger- man wines deteriorate in bad localities ; these deli- cate and exquisitely flavored wines will only keep in a moderate and fixed temperature, and should be stored in a cool cellat not exceeding 50° Fahrenheit 156 CONSERVATION OF WINES. the whole year round. Being very sensible to ex- ternal impressions, they are sure to deteriorate by exposure to atmospheric influence and sudden vari- ations of temperature, while the strong wines of Spain, Madeira, and Portugal, appear to escape in- jury. The object in keeping wine in a fixed moderate temperature is to prevent either its contraction or expansion, which is found to be detrimental to its quality. Extreme heat causes expansion and a renewal of fermentation ; extreme cold causes con- traction, and neutralizes the flavor. It is believed that new Madeira and other strong white wines are improved by exposure to a high temperature, and that the Ehine wines acquire strength by extreme cold. However, the result of experience proves that all mature, perfect wines, whether strong or weak, are best kept in a temperature with the ther- mometer ranging between 50° and 55°. Champagne is a wine which requires much atten- tion in keeping. The bottles should be carefully laid on their sides, packed in sand, in a cool cellar where air is admitted ; they never should be placed on their bottoms, as from this cause they will very speedily lose their effervescence. When once placed they should not be touched, except for removal to the table ; and if they are left in the cases the mark of the upper side should be carefully attended to. The Sillery is sometimes apt to effervesce after car- riage, or in being placed in bad cellars. The bottles should in that case be placed on their bottoms for CONSERVATION OP WINES. 157 some time, and before drinking the wine should be kept an hour in ice. The most esteemed of the ef- fervescing wines is the viN cbemant d'At, which is the least frothy and fullest bodied. Deep cellars are best for Champagne, and as little variation of temperature as possible. The older it gets, the less liable it is to be attacked by changes to its disad- vantage. The better this wine is, the more it is lia- ble to accident from heat, cold, or bad cellars; it will, however, in most cases, very soon recover it- self. The preceding remarks, it is hardly necessary to say, apply exclusively to the finest qualities. A great proportion of the Champagne sent into this country is not only inferior, but spurious; such wines, therefore, it is desirable to bring into imme- diate consumption, for they will not keep any length of time. The French and German wines in cask should be placed on the stillion with the bung at one side, in order to exclude air, and to prevent evaporation as much as possible. In bottles they should be in- variably laid on the side : this rule admits of no exception. Port and other strong red wines should be likewise so placed ; and even the strong white wines are better kept in a horizontal than an upright position. The rich wines de liqueur of all countries should be placed on their ends, being liable to pro- tracted fermentation. Saw-dust may be used for packing Port wine in the cellar-bins, but laths or sand is best adapted for the delicate French and German, and indeed for all 158 CONSEEVATION OF WINES. wines. Good sand, well washed iu fresh water, has an admirable effect in keeping wine fresh and cool, particularly sand in which quartz prevails to a coti- siderable extent, as it keeps the wine fresh by its peculiar coolness. Avpid disturbing wines ; the more you do so, the more you expose them to lose their brilliancy. Wine Cellar. For the proper conservation of wines, the cellars should be constructed of good stone or brick, and at such a depth as to secure an even temperature throughout the year. The following points should receive consideration, viz., the changes of the ex- ternal atmosphere must not penetrate to the re- cesses ; foul air must be excluded ; the temperature of 50° Fahrenheit is the best that can be kept up throughout the year. " A wine-cellar too hot or cold Murders wine before it is old." Cellars should not be built or used where a vi- bratory motion exists from the constant traffic of vehicles — the back of buildings is preferable to the front for this reason — no disagreeable odors should be suffered to corrupt the air near the en- trance of a good wine cellar, in the smallest possible degree — cellars should be kept scrupulously clean — whitewashing and cleanliness are indispensable where wine is kept — and sulphur should be now CONSERVATION OF WINES. 159 and then burned, if carbonic acid is formed — double doors are essentially needful, about four or five feet within each other, so that one may be closed before the other is opened. The apertures for the admis- sion of air should not pass out in direct lines, so as to admit light, but should be made like those in powder magazines, in this form f^, and only be opened occasionally, when the temperature is with- in and out alike. If the site be eligible for win- dows they should be of glass, double, one about two inches within the other, hermetically closed, and shaded externally by projecting covers, so as to exclude every ray of sunshine ; or they should be on the northern exposure, and the light admitted should be barely sufficient for faintly distinguishing the objects the cellar may contain — no acid or liquor of any kind, which is in a state of acetous fermen- tation, or likely to become in that state, should ever find admission. The brilliancy of the finer wines should be most cautiously attended to, as well as the flavor; the preservation of these depends more upon the neat- ness and perfection of the cellar than many persons are inclined to admit. The majority of wine cellars in private houses are not at all adapted for expensive delicate wines. Hence people so often complain, after they have re- ceived wine in excellent condition from the mer- chant, that it does not drink as well as it did at first, that it is a wine that will not keep, and that they . have been imposed upon in the purchase, when 160 CONSERVATION OF WINES. the cellar or mode of keeping alone has been in fault. Fungi. Wine escaping from the cask, in a moist or ill- ventilated cellar, will wholly resolve itself into a substantial fungi. A circumstance of this nature, which presented itself to the observation of Sir Joseph Banks, is very curious. Having placed a cask of wine in his cellar to ripen, at the expiration of three years he ordered his butler to ascertain its condition. Upon attempting to open the door, it was found impossible to do so, in consequence of some powerful obstacle within. The door was therefore cut down ; when the cellar was found completely filled with a firm, fungous vegetable production, so substantial that an axe was required for its removal. The cask was found empty against the ceiling, where it had been lifted by the upward growth of this monster specimen of the genus Fungi. This noxious matter is scrupulously preserved in many of the cellars of London wine merchants ; for what purpose it is a puzzle to conjecture, except it be a silly predilection for the appearance of anti- quity ; its existence in cellars where wines are stored is unquestionably injurious. CHAPTER XXI. OF THE MIXING OF WINES. DESCRIPTIONS ABD QUALITIES SOUGHT FOR IN GOOD WINES — THE D(IFFICDM?T OF PEOOTJKING PEEFECT WINE, ESPECIALLY POET — THE WINES OF FKANCE AMONG THE PUREST — SWEET WINES EAST OF IMITATION — HIGH COLOR — AKTIEICIAl FLAVORS AND SOPHISTICATIONS — ORIGIN OF THE PRACTICE, AND NECESSITT FOR ITS DISCONTINUANCE. Although there is no positive standard of taste in'^ wines, and tlie demand for particular sorts is liable to great fluctuation, from the influence of fashion and caprice ; yet there are certain qualities which may be deemed essential, and with respect to which all men are agreed. Some persons may like the sweet, others the fruity, and others the decidedly dry wines ; some will prefer those of a light body, others a potent wine, and others wine of medium strength ; but no one will choose a flat and insipid vintage, in preference to that which is distinguished by the fulness of its body and richness of its flavor and perfume ; or when purchasing a supply will be disposed to overlook the equally indispensable requi- sites of firmness and durability. These qualities, 11 162 MIXING OF WINES. however, are seldom found combined, except in first- rate "wines, which being grown in very limited quantity, sell at high prices, and are procured with difficulty. Indeed, generally speaking, they may be said to be little known. Even the secondary wines are not easily to be had pure and unadulterated, but frequently undergo preparation before they are brought to market. Of some of these prepara- tions, and of the manner in which they affect the qualities of the commodity, mention has been made in the foregoing chapters. The number of hands through which wine usual- ly passes before it reaches the consumer, the great difference in price between the first-rate and the inferior sorts, and the prevailing ignorance with respect to their distinguishing characters, afford so many facilities and temptations to fraud and impo- sition in this branch of trade, that no buyer, however great his caution, however just his taste, is wholly secure against them. It is undoubtedly the interest of the grower to raise as large a quantity of the prime kinds as he possibly can ; and it is equally the interest of the merchant to gain the favor of his customers by furnishing them with wines which will give satisfaction. But let the growers be ever so honestly inclined, they cannot always supply the commodity in as equal and perfect a state as they could wish : for not to mention those defects in the nature of the soils, which necessarily restrict the production of fine wines within certain limits, there is a continual variation in the quality of every sort MIXING OF WINES. 163 of wine, accordingly as the seasons prove more or less favorable. Good vintages are in fact of mucli rarer occurrence tlian is commonly imagined; at least iu those countries where the grape does not attain an early maturity — the number of propitious years does not amount to an average of more than one in every six. Under these circumstances the farmer, or merchant, who has been so fortunate as to save any portion of the better vintages, uses it for the purpose of mingling it with such feeble and perishable wines as would otherwise remain unsale- able, and could not be preserved for any length of time in their natural state. It is sometimes desirable to mix the rougher and higher-colored red wines with a certain portion of generous white wine, which softens their harshness, and renders them much sooner drinkable than they would otherwise be ; for which reasons these mixtures are by many preferred to the purer kinds, which require to be long kept before their full flavor and aroma are developed. These observations have particular ref- erence to Port wines : of upwards of thirty thousand pipes annually shipped from Oporto, not more than one tenth can be classed with wines of superior quality ; the demand being chiefly for ordinary and low-priced wines, the merchants average the quality by mixing one growth with another, good and bad, with brandy and other adjuncts, to meet the vitiated tastes of consumers, whose palates are already habit- uated to this artificial compound. In those provinces of France which yield the 164 MIXING OF WINES. choicest wines, and carry on the most extensive trade in this commodity, the manner of proceeding is somewhat different. There the first growths being always in much request, and readily finding purchasers at the highest prices, are carefully pre- served in their genuine purity. If they were mixed with the inferior sorts, the delicate flavors for which they are chiefly prized would be almost entirely destroyed; and the value of the wine so mixed would not compensate the sacrifice it required. The French merchants, therefore, keeping their finest wines pure, use only the secondary kinds, especially those which possess much spirit and body, for mix- ing with such as are of too thin and feeble quality to answer the purpose of commerce. In this way a considerable portion of the ordinary wines of Medoc and other parts of the Bcbrdelais, are render- ed fit for exportation, and come to us under the name of Claret. As this species of wine is in ex- tensive demand, and the districts do not afford a sufficient quantity of the stronger kinds for the preparation, the merchants are obliged to supply the deficiency by importations from the more southerly provinces of France, and even to have recourse to the thick and heavy vintages of Spain, which though deficient in flavor, possess the other requisite qual- ities. In making these mixtures the object of the Bordeaux merchant is not to imitate the produce of the first-rate vineyards, which he certainly could not accomplish even if he were to attempt it ; but merely to correct the defects of the common wines MIXING OF -WINES. 165 of the country, and to enable him to export them in larger quantities than he could otherwise pretend to do. The indefinite terra Claret does not pledge him to furnish wine of any particular growth ; and if he only sells what goes by that name at a moder- ate price, the light wines of Medoo strengthened and improved in flavor by an addition of Hermitage, may well satisfy his customers ; but if he vend the wine so named as the genuine produce of Lafite, Latour, or Chateaux Margaux, and exacts the price of a first-rate vintage, he resorts to an artifice, which will not succeed with the skilful, and ought not to be practised against the inexperienced. Although the same observation will, in general, ap|)ly to all attempts to counterfeit the choicer wines, yet there are certain kinds to the distinguishing qualities of which a somewhat nearer approach may be made by artificial admixtures. Of this description are the luscious sweet wines, the flavors of which though often very powerful, are less delicate than those of the dry class ; and are besides, to a certain degree, obscured by the undecomposed saccharine matter in which these wines abound. It is probably owing to the last-mentioned circumstance, or to the similarity of the grapes from which they are made, that many of them, though raised in different soils, resemble each other so closely as to render their discrimination a matter of some nicety. It is also worthy of remark, that, in proportion as the luscious wines advance in age, their characteristic differences are less perceptible. These circumstances afford 166 MIXING OF WINES. a facility of forming imitations of the rarer and more costly varieties of the dessert-wines, as substitutes for them in those countries where the genuine wines are seldom met with.* As high color is generally, though sometimes erroneously, considered a criterion of the excellence of particular wines ; and as the vintages of unfavor- able seasons are almost always deficient in this par- ticular, it is frequently supplied by artificial means. For this purpose a variety of coloring matters are employed, such as the elderberry, beet root, log- wood, Brazil wood &c., all of which, though they may improve the tint, deteriorate the flavor and durability of the wine. Though the various sophistications, by means of heterogeneous ingredients, are not all equally repre- hensible, it is very certain that none of them are calculated to supply or improve the qualities of genuine wine. Even the communication of artificial flavors derived from fruits and aromatic herbs, which is the most innocent of any, is apt to affect the wine with a medicated taste, which, to a delicate palate, is immediately perceptible. The only legitimate mode of bettering wines is by the addition of such consti- tuents of the grape as the deficiencies of particular vintages appear to indicate ; and they ought to be employed as much as possible during the fermenta- * It is a well-known fact, that there is more Tokay sold on the continent of Europe and in England, in one year, than the limited space where it is grown, on the mountains of Hungary, will produce in twenty years. MIXING OF WINES. 16,7- tion, or before the wine is completely formed. To certain kinds, intended for distant climates, the ad- mixture of a small quantity of brandy may be allow- able, but never to such an extent as to overcome the original flavor ; otherwise we impair their excellence and risk their partial decomposition. Generally speaking, no improvement can ever take place by mingling good wine with that of infe- rior quality. Perfect wine can only be made by superior combinations. Delicacy, color, aroma, bou- quet, transparency, are only to be retained by a strict adherence to this rule. A cloudy wine of little merit, is the result of a good mingled with an inferior growth. In justice to the Foreign Merchants, it must be admitted that these admixtures did not originate with them, but in the vitiated taste of consumers in former years. England has been long proverbial for partiality to strong brandied wines (except among the higher grades of society), and until of late years a similar taste was the prevailing standard in this country, but it has now in a great measure ceased to exist, and there is no doubt but with the improved taste of the present age, aided by more skilful and scientific methods in the culture of the vine, that the necessity for these practices will cease also. All these things go to prove the necessity of a great alteration in the commerce in wines, the prin- ciple of which will be that every wine shall bear its true designation. To this the good sense of the pub- lic must aid, by not declining wines for their name, but their demerits sake. CHAPTER XXII. OF THE ADXTLTEKATION OF "WINES. TEMPTATION AND FACILITY FOK THE PRACTICE OF FKAUD — BRANDY AND SWEETNESS THE GRAND AGENTS — MODE OF DISCOVERING COUNTERFEIT WINES — SPURIOUS CHAMPAGNE — PORT — FOREIGN IMITATIONS. Of all articles of commerce there is none that offers a wider field for the most extensive and pernicious frauds than wine. It would occupy too much space in this work to enter fully into the extensive subject of the adulteration of wines. By adulteration of wine is not to be understood the mixture of two genuine growths for the sake of improvement, but in the first place, a clandestine amalgamation of an inferior kind of wine with one which is superior; and secondly, what may be denominated with more propriety the product of fictitious operations passed off as genuine growths, having little or no grape juice in its composition. In the vile mixtures which constitute the inferior grades of all strong wines, the brandy and sweetness is the grand mask for concealing ill quality and base ingredient. The truth is, that brandy renders bad ADULTERATION OF WIlSrES. 169 wine potable, and reduces good wine to the medio- cre standard of bad wine well brandied, and made according to the English taste, generated at first by this very practice. All wines, therefore, should be rejected that have the least flavor and heat of the brandy or an unusual sweetness. Brandy uniformly destroys the vinous qualities of wine, and its admix- ture is immediately productive of the loss of flavor and freshness of natural wine. It is to brandied wines that liver complaints in Great Britain are often owing, which are unknown in countries where wine is drunk pure. Large quantities of fictitious wines are palmed off for genuine upon those who are supposed never to have drunk what is pure, and have no palate for judging (although affecting a discriminating taste), and it is reasonable to assume that the buyers and consumers of cheap wines have been in most cases the sufferers, because the inferior grades are more easily imitated than the superior ; the peculiar quali- ties for which wine is prized are of a delicate nature, and those who are accustomed to drink such, can very easily detect the inferior and drugged article. Adulterated wines when drunk may not imme- diately show their pernicious qualities, except through the head or stomach of the consumer — a little time in the wine cellar, however, will general- ly dissolve the charm, by separating the ingredients that conceal the fraud, and leaving a " caput mor- Counterfeits are to be detected satisfactorily only 170 ADULTEBATION OF WIlSrES. through means of their sensible qualities, or chemical analyzation, or by an experienced connoisseur or merchant ; but the best test against inferior or adul- terated wine is a perfect acquaintance with that which is good. Almost all descriptions of wines are adulterated or imitated — the ignorance of most persons of the true taste of Champagne, has caused large importa- tions of a wretched and cheap manufacture from France, which is sold for the genuine article, and also quantities of a fictitious wine under the same name are made of common ingredients and brought into consumption. Eeally good Champagne cannot be purchased at Eheims for less than three to four francs the bottle, yet large quantities bearing this denomination are sold in this country, duty and all charges paid, for less than one half the money. The London Medical Times of November, 1850, contains the following article, which may be interest- ing to the drinkers of Champagne wine. " A singular mode of increasing the intoxicating power of Champagne has been discovered in Ger- many. It appears that a wine merchant of Eheims has for some years past enjoyed the almost exclusive privilege of supplying the kingdom of Wurtemberg with that wine, and that an extraordinary effect has been noticed to attend the drinking of a single glass thereof. After several analyses of the wine had been made, the contents of some of the bottles were ex- amined by Liebig, who ascertained by analyzing its ADULTERATION OF WINES. 171 gases, that it contained one Tolume of carbonic acid gas, and two of the laughing gas or protoxide of nitrogen. The last named gas, the peculiar effects produced by which on the animal economy, when it has been respired, are well known, is prepared by the decomposition of the nitrate of ammonia. If this salt be at all impure, and not unfrequently when it is used absolutely pure, nitrous acid is evolved in the first instance during its decomposition. Che- mists, therefore, when preparing the laughing gas, are in the habit of throwing away the first propor- tions of gas that come over, and farther test the character of the gas before they allow it to be inspi- red, as the nitrous acid gas would act on the econo- my as a dangerous poison. Furthermore, if the lungs contain air when this gas is inhaled, nitrous acid gas will be formed, and danger result. There is another danger occasionally encountered, when this gas is used for the purposes of exhilaration by respiration. In persons of consumptive habit, it may cause severe pain at the chest, difficulty of breathing, and even spitting of blood. In those who have a tendency to apoplexy or palsy, mischief in the head may be caused by its incautious use. — How far these results may be modified by the gas being taken into the stomach, it is at present impossible to say, but the subject admits of and deserves farther inquiry. At all events, there is the danger of a portion of nitrous acid gas being used in the wine, together with the laughing gas, and the adulteration is one of a most improper as well as singular cha- 172 ADULTERATION OF WINES. racter. It can hardly be regarded as altogether ianocuous." The Port wine denominated and sold as "Pure Juice Port," " and Burgundy Port," is another in- stance of the vitiated taste prevailing with many. These wines are " black, strong and sweet;" the pro- portion of the juice of the grape does not exceed one half, the remainder of the wine is artificial ; the color is increased by the extract of elder-berry, the strength is derived from the addition of brandy, and the sweet taste is caused by a checked fermentation, and in some cases by the addition of syrup. It is almost need- less to say that this is a most unwholesome com- pound. There are manufactured imitations of nearly all the foreign wines, the use of which and of strong brandied wines among the community deprives them of the power of discriminating, by making impure wine the standard of the general taste. It may not be generally known, that very exten- sive establishments exist at Cette and Marseilles for the manufacture of every description of wine, both white and red, to resemble the produce not only of France, but of all other wine countries. It is no un- common practice with speculators engaged in this trade to purchase and ship wines, fabricated in the places named, to other ports on the continent, and be- ing branded and marked as the genuine wines usually are, they are then transhipped to the markets for which they are designed, of which the United States is the chief. Such is the extent to which this traffic ADULTEEATION OF WINES. 173 is carried that one individual has been referred to in the French ports, who has been in the habit of ship- ping four times in the year 20,000 bottles of Cham- pagne, not the product of the grape, but fabricated in these wine factories. It is well known that the imposition of these counterfeit wines has arrived to such a pitch, as to become quite notorious, and the subject of much complaint, in this country at least. A vast deal more might be written on the va- rious methods adopted and the ingredients used in carrying on the system of adulteration and sophis- tication — the present chapter merely touches on the subject, not only to illustrate the principles recorded in this volume, but more especially to show the read- er how necessary it is to form a just judgment, and obtain a perfect a,cquaintance with genuine wine of every description, that he may thereby be better enabled to escape imposition. CHAPTER XXIII. OF THE rri!nns'& akd BOTTUNa of weos. PEINCIPLE OF FINING KTJSSIAN ISINGLASS AND WHITES OF EGGS EFFECTS AND DESIGN — MODE OF OPEEATION — TO TEST THE BRILLIANCY OP WINE — PEEIOD FOB BOTTLING — SEOTJEITT AGAINST PEICKED WINES. The principle of fining is to draw down with the fining particles to the bottom of the cask, the con- stituent particles of the wine in solution, which ren- der it turbid. The substances used are whites of eggs and isinglass. Whites of eggs are used with all descriptions of red wines in the proportion of eight to every 100 gallons, varying the quantity accord- ing to circumstances ; i. e. if the wines are light in body and color six will be quite sufficient ; if on the contrary the wines possess a strong body and deep color double this quantity may be used. The eggs must be well beaten up to a froth, and afterwards amalgamated with a small quantity of the wine; which is then poured into the cask, and should be agi- tated by rolling it backwards and forwards several times, or routed up by a forked stick put in at the bung. To insure perfect and thorough brilliancy FrNING AND BOTTLING OF WINES. 175 the fining slioiild pervade tte whole body of the wine. The effects and design of the application is to reproduce a certain degree of turbidity in the wine, which after a time ceases, leaving it clearer than before ; and they both serve to secure its durability, by separating those matters which are most apt to cause deterioration. In the operation of fining by means of isinglass or whites of eggs, the tannin and alcohol of the fluid act upon the gelatine and albu- men, and form reticulated coagula, which envelope and carry down the solid particles that endanger the safety of the wine. Isinglass is generally used for all white wines, and particular care is necessary in its preparation. One ounce of the best Hussian shred isinglass {no other will do) is sufficient for a pipe of 120 gallons — this should be placed in a glazed vessel with white wine to cover the whole. In twelve hours the wine will be absorbed, when an additional quantity should be added and the contents stirred round ; if kept in a warm temperature or near a fire the dissolution will be perfected in a week; it should then be strained through a linen cloth or hair sieve, and the mucilage pressed out, and wine added to the extent of two gallons, and well beaten up, then put into the cask, which is to be treated as already indicated. The period required for the wine to become bright is influenced by its character, the temperature or state of the weather, and varies from two to six or eight weeks. Eed wines fall bright much sooner than 176 FINING AND BOTTLING OF WINES. ■white. "Wines once fined should never be disturbed nor removed, unless previously racked off into ano- ther seasoned cask ; and care must be taken that no portion of turbid wine or lees be mixed with the bright. There are gome wines it is better not to fine, such as the high grades and delicate growths of France and Germany, also genuine Amontillado and similar descriptions — such wines in most oases fall bright without the aid of fining, in about the same period as those to which the process is applied. "Wines require a much longer time to fall bright in cold weather than in warm. To ascertain if a wine is thoroughly brilliant, draw a sample through a peg-hole from the lower part of the cask, about one or two inches from the bottom, where the faucet should enter — let a little wine run off into a vessel first, and then fill a plain thin wine glass, which must be quite clean ; examine it through a taper or candle in the dark, and you will find no difficulty in ascertaining if it be per- fectly limpid — if so, it may be bottled. The faucet should be introduced without imparting the slightest motion to the cask. "When a cask of pure, delicate, French or German wine is to be racked or bottled, it should be drawn off at once, the bottles corked as they are taken from the faucet, and the wine in the cask not allow- ed to remain on ullage but during the operation of drawing off. If a cask of fine Claret or Hock is left half full for two or three days, it will be materially injured, if not irretrievably spoiled. riNING AND BOTTLING OF WIKES. 177 In bottling choose the best corks, if treble the price of the common ones be paid for them — the corks should be new, firm and round, and be so driven as to press equally on all sides of the neck of the bottle. Every cork with a bad surface, or brown and chinked, should be flung aside, and it need not be remarked that an old cork should never be used. For white wines new bottles should be used, but for Port, bottles which have been previously used are better, because the deposit or crust will adhere firmly to the glass, but if put "into new bottles, it is usually found loose, and floating through the wine. When bottles are cleaned with shot, care should be taken that non^e of the pellets are left behind ; if so, and that the bottle is filled and kept for any length of time, the lead will dissolve and impregnate the wine with its deleterious qualities. A small quantity of potash or sulphuric acid, mingled with the water for washing bottles, is effectual in thoroughly cleaning them. All pure and delicate wines should be closely corked and waxed — close corks and a uniform tem- perature, are the best security against pricked wines, until age has cleared them of those particles by pre- cipitation,' to which ascency is attributable. A proper maturity is necessary to be acquired by all wines, previous to being put into bottle — this can be ascertained by those who are competent judges. If wines be not sufficiently matured it is 12 178 FLNIKG AND BOTTLING OF WINES. mucli better to let them remain over in the cask until they are so. In drinking pure light wines from the cask, if a flask of fine Florence oil be poured in at the bung, it will preserve the wine from acidity to the last drop, so well does oil coat the surface of the liquid and keep off the air. CHAPTER XXIV. OF THE PTJECHASINa OP "WINES. DIFFICULTT OF OHOOSINGr — PEETENSION IN TASTE — MERIT OF SOME WINES FOUNDED ON FASHION AND CAPKICE — THE BEST MEANS OF PROCITKING GOOD WINE — ^PERFECT TASTE A RARE GIFT WINE SHOUXD BE CHOSEN FOR INTRINSIO MERIT, NOT FOR NAME, BRAND, VINTAGE, AGE, NOR CHEAPNESS — SECURITY AGAINST BEING IMPOSED UPON. Wine is a costly article, and being in tiniversal use, among the rich as a luxury, and the poor as a medi- cine, it is necessary that buyers exercise a scrupu- lous caution in their selection. The choice of wine is a very difficult task, especially for the uninitiated. The difficulty is two- fold; in the first place, no two persons have the same ideas of the flavor of any particular wine ; secondly, the wines of the same vineyard differ in different years. Age, care in keeping, or accident, causes a change in the flavor of the same class of wine, perceptible to an amateur, though little noticed by strangers not accustomed to the variety. A pur- chaser should always, if possible, choose for himself the wine which is most agreeable to his palate, and 180 PURCHASING OF "WINES. relying upon the merchant for its good quality, he will thus add the latter's experience to his own choice. There is a good deal of pretension in the general taste for wine ; and it has been asserted that oftentimes the worst judge complains first of the quality of the wine set before him. At one time the example of a fashionable person will make a wine held in very little estimation before, and perhaps very worthless in reality, the prime wine of the table for a season. Very often it is this fashion, or accident, and not the true regard for vinous excellence, which makes the demand considerable for any particular species. The first object to be attained, next to the taste meeting the approbation of the purchaser, is its pu- rity. Whatever be the country from whence it comes — whatever the class — if it be adulterated with any thing foreign to its own growth, it ought not to be selected. To distinguish genuine wine from that which is mixed requires great experience, when the species to be judged is of a second or third-rate class. The bouquet may be imitated, and even the taste ; and unless long practice has habitu- ated the purchaser to a nice discrimination, he is likely to err in his judgment. It is needful to know whether new wines will keep or change, and to what alterations the flavor will be liable. Without this knowledge, great loss may be sustained by a pur- chaser. Wines may appear good and bright which will not keep a year ; and others, that at first seem by no means deserving of preference, may prove in the end excellent. The consumer has no resource PUEOHASING OF WINES. 181 then but in the dealer of extensive connections and high character ; while the dealer possessing a good natural taste will acquire, by experience and nice observation, the requisite qualification. The taste is the criterion by which a judgment is to be formed ; but a taste in wine, which can be depended upon, is a rare gift ; the mere power of discriminating between one obvious flavor and an- other is much more common. Some persons have no taste at all, and yet scarcely know their own de- ficiency. The late Sir "Walter Scott was one of these, being singularly insensible to taste and odors. Many circumstances combine to affect the organ of taste ; the particular impression on this sense is so liable to alteration by the state of the bodily health, or by the last substance taken into the mouth, that it is difiicult to depend upon. 'Sweet or spiced food taken a good while before will affect the judgment. Many recommend cheese, but after that, all wines' have an agreeable relish ; while those who are in the habit of using tobacco in any form, of drinking strong wines or spirits, lose entirely that nicety of taste so requisite in judging of the superior product of the purest growths. A habit of tasting the su- perior wines will alone give the healthful palate the power of discriminating minuter differences in the aroma, bouquet, and s^ve of the choicer kinds. Such a palate judges by comparison of what ought to be found in the best growths, and the opinion is formed by an effort of memory upon previous sensation. The first quality Champagne, Medoc, Burgundy, 182 PURCHASINa OF WINES. and Ehine wines, exhale a fragrant bouquet, and carry a delicious flavor, whicli can alone be realized by all right organs tolerably acquainted with the real thing. It is a belief with many, that if wine is received direct from under custom-house lock it must be genuine. We have already seen this is no guaran- tee ; as spurious wines, inferior and fictitious growths, are exported from Europe often under the denomi- nation of high grades, and sold at an apparent reduc- tion in price. Buy no wines designated of famous vintages, unless you know to a certainty that they are such by their qualities proving so. The first growths of celebrated vintages are always in the hands of capi- talists, who hold them at their full value. It does not matter much what the vintage or brand is desig- nated, provided the wine is really fine. Buy no wines represented of great age : it has been the fashion to pay such extravagant prices at times for old wines, that it would appear it was the high cost and not the quality of the wine that was to constitute the attraction. Many in this way possess wines past maturity and literally not drinkable. Mature wines of moderate age are the best and cheapest. Buy no wines for their low prices, let the kind be what it may, whether generally denominated a cheap, or an expensive growth. Good wines always bring good prices— the contrary is the exception. The only security against being imposed upon, PURCHASING OF WIHrES. 183 and the secret of procuring good wine, is to purchase from honorable and respectable merchants, whose character and judgment can be relied upon, and to whom a reputation for selling fine wines is of ten times more importance than any thing they could expect to make by adulteration. Even if a low- priced wine is wanted, the same merchant will sup- ply it, with the advantage of delivering it for what it really is, and not under a false designation. The confidence of persons in their own judgment is unu- sually great, and very few understand in what actual cheapness consists ; and where reliance cannot be placed in the seller, too much circumspection cannot be exercised by the biiyer. CHAPTER XXV. OF THE PEOPEETIES, USES, AND EFFECTS OF WINES. OEITANTHIC ETHEK — SUGAK — ALCOHOL — ACID — TARTRATES — CO- LOR — BOUQUET — AHOMA — USE AND ABUSE — PRESIDENT JEF- FERSON — DOCTOR SIGMOND — DOCTOR ADAM CLARKE — THE RO- MANS — EFFECTS OF WINE DEPENDENT UPON QUALITY, QUAN- TITr, AND THE NECESSITY EXISTING FOR ITS USE — INDIGES- TIBILITT INDUCED BY MINGLING SEVERAL SORTS — SINGULAR EFFECT OF SOME WINES EFFECTS OF WINE USED IN MODER- ATION. Properties of Wines. The peculiar vinous flavor of wine, by which it is distinguished from all mixtures of ardent spirits, is mainly owing to the presence of a small portion of the ethereal substance discovered by MM. Liebig and Pelouze, and called by them oenanthic ether. It is said not to exceed a forty-thousandth part of the wine. It seems to regulate the strength of the flavor of wine, or what is called its bouquet ; but the quality of flavor peculiar to each sort depends upon a volatile oil, either present in the juice from the first, or engendered during fermentation. Oenan- PEOPEKTIES OP "WINE. 185 thio ether is probably concerned in some way with the intoxicating qualities possessed by some wines, such as Burgundy, Hermitage, and Amontillado. Wine is found on analyzation to contain the fol- lowing properties, viz. : Sugar, Alcohol, Acid, Gum, Water, Gluten, Tannin, Aroma, Boiiguet (oenanthio ether), Tartrate of Potash, Carbonic Add (in all sparkling Sulphate of Potash, wines), Extractive Matter, Acetic Acid, Bitartrate of Potash, Chlorides (of potassium and so- Coloring Matter. dium), In elucidation of this subject, some of the pro- perties are here described, and for the others the reader is referred to Ure and Brande. Sugar. This is a constituent in many wines. Those in which it is very abundant are called sweet or lus- cious wines — Malmsey, Constantia, Tokay, Paxaret- ta, Eivesaltes, Frontignac, and others. The sweet- ness of some wines is attained by cheeking the fermentation at an early stage ; in others the fruit becomes so highly matured that no degree of fer- mentation will make it otherwise than rich or lus- cious. By many the sweetness of wine is considered a virtue — by some a defect. Wines which are young are generally sweet; and this, when desirable to 186 PROEEETIES OP WINE. alter, is met by frequent rackings, so as to prevent as much as possible a protracted fermentation. Alcohol. The alcohol of all true wines is derived solely from the fermentation of the sugar, or alterations of the acids contained in the grape juice from w,hich they are produced, and is held to be more digestible and less intoxicating than in its pure forms, owing to its being supposed to be in a peculiar state of combination with the other principles in wine. Wines which contain least of alcohol are those of France and Germany, and are thereby denominated weak wines ; those which contain most are the wines of Portugal, Madeira, and Spain, which are usually strong or generous wines. The saccharine or sugar of all wines of the latter description becomes con- verted into alcohol by age, while tartar is deposited. At this juncture the wine is considered perfect, and should be drunk, for after this period its strength diminishes, partly by evaporation, and partly by its conversion into other substances. Add. All wines are more or less acidulous. In the wines of northern countries acetic acid is often found, as well as in wines deteriorated and spoiled. The brisk, frothing, sparkling, or effervescent wines of Champagne, which have been bottled before fer- mentation is complete, though without its being arrested, owe their peculiar properties to carbonic PROPERTIES OF WINE. 187 acid retained in solution under pressure. Some wines, as Port, contain tannic acid, to which they owe their roughness and astringency. They derive this from the hull, and perhaps in part from the seeds of the grape. The acidity of some wines de- pends upon the bitartrate of potash. Tartrates. The most important saline constituent of wine is tartar (bitartrate of potash), which deposits along with the coloring and extractive matters, both in the cask and bottle, constituting argol, the bee's wing, &c. The deposit augments with the formation of alcohol. Tartrate of lime is usually formed along with tartar in wine, and in the German wines es- pecially there exists the tartrate of alumnia and potash. Coloring Matter. All wines contain more or less of coloring mat- ter ; but those which are prepared without the husk are pale and denominated white wines, as Sherry, Madeira, Hock, &c. But if the husk of the dark colored grapes be present during fermentation, the wine acquires a deep color and is called red wine. By exposure to the light, as well as by age, the co- lor diminishes. Bouquet. '' The wines of warm climates," says Liebig, " possess no bouquet ; wines grown in France have 188 PEOPERTIES OF WINE. it in a marked degree ; but in the wines from the Rhine the perfume is most intense. The kind of grapes grown upon the Ehine, which ripen very late, and scarcely ever completely, such as the Riess- ling and Orleans, have the strongest perfume and bouquet, and contain proportionally a larger quan- tity of tartaric acid. The earlier grapes, such as the Rulander and others, contain a large proportion of alcohol, and are similar to Spanish wines in their flavor, but they possess no bouquet. It is evident from these facts, that the acid of wines and their characteristic perfume have some connection, for they are always found together ; and it can scarcely be doubted that the presence of the former exercises a certain influence on the formation of the latter." The flavor of wine, or that fine character denom- inated bouquet, is unknown in Portugal or Spanish wines, and is found to perfection only in the French and German wines of the first class ; from their deli- cate treatment during fermentation, and from the peculiar qualities in the soil ; — it is rarely perceived until the wines are mature. Flavor, as commonly understood among wine merchants, is the taste any particular wine possesses, treated artificially or not, and will depend on the mode of management in the vat. It is not affected by the addition of brandy, which, on the contrary, may be the imparting cause in some cases. Bouquet is never present but in the purest wine; it is not a single perfume, and is named bouquet from this circumstance. It seems to arise from a union of several agreeable odors ; any mix- PEOPEETIES OF WINE. 189 ture would destroy it. Thus Sherry, Madeira, Port, and other such wines, although possessing a very agreeable aroma, have little or no bouquet. Aroma. The aroma of -nrines consists in a volatile usually termed an essential oil, and in a resinous substance capable of being extracted by spirits of wine. All fine wines possess this property, and yield a brisk fragrant smell. Sediment — Crystals — Grust. Many persons are surprised at the appearance of some kind of deposits in wine, which has put on a novel appearance, and attribute it to substances wholly foreign, either adulteration or accidental mixtures — such is not the case ; the precipitation of wine in bottle is only the continuance of that which began in the vat, and keeping this in mind the remedy is apparent. All wines deposit iu this their last state of preservation, from the coarse crust of Port to the depdtpierre of Champagne, or the al- most invisible sediment in some other wines. The different soils on which the vines are grown, and the nature of the season, will sometimes cause a different appearance in the deposits. Sometimes it will adhere to the sides of the glass when poured out of the bottle; at others it will become suspended in the wine, having too much levity to sink, remaining in suspension while the wine is acquiring age. Crystals frequently form in wines, and particu- 190 PROPERTIES OF WIKE. larly on the bottom of the cask with white wine, looking something like sand, at other times pellucid as glass. These are nothing more than tartar, and are by no means to be regarded as of moment, if the wine is to be drank directly from the cellar. If it is to be removed, the wine should be carefully rack- ed or drawn off with a syphon, so as not to agitate it. The appearance is rather a mark of goodness than inferiority in the quality of the wine. In Champagne what is called the dep6t pierre is very like fine sand or small flinty crystals, but it is nothing more than an appearance put on by the crystallized tartar of the wine. All wines after being some time in bottle pre- cipitate a tartar or sediment more or less, and in the red wines, generally carries along with it a quantity of the coloring matter, forming a dark crust on that side of the bottle which lies undermost. It would appear, however, that some wines are less apt to form the crust than others. In Port wines it is always seen: but in those of Medoc it is rarely observable, at least when they have been properly matured and fined, previously to bottling ; and the color becomes even deeper as the deposit of tar- tar proceeds. In white wines, on the other hand, the tartar shows itself in the form of pellucid crys- tals adhering to the cork and side of the vessel, and consisting generally of pure supertartrate of potash, but containing sometimes other saline substances which have been combined with it. The substances referred to are found in every USES OF WINE. 191 vinous precipitation in some form or another more or less apparent, and those wines which deposit freely are observed to be the most durable ; at the( same time it maybe remarked that truly ^e/yBci wine; forms an exception to this rule, because it is usually! allowed that wines well made and thoroughly fined! seldom deposit any crust or sediment. Uses of Wine. " 'Tis pity wine, which nature meant To man in kindness to present, And give him kindly to caress And cherish his frail happiness ; Of equal virtue to renew. His weary mind and body too, Should (like the cider tree in Eden, Which grew only to be forbidden) No sooner come to be enjoyed But th' owner fatally destroyed." The artificial state of the human constitution produced by the habits of civilized life, is supposed to render the use of wine for some people a neces- sary stimulant during exposure to unusual fatigue. So far do some carry this notion in the upper ranks of society in Europe, as to follow the strange practice of allowing wine, and in considerable quantity, even to healthy young children. It is impossible to admit that the moderate use of wine, even though habitual, produces, except in certain habits, the evil effects on the bodily and mental powers, or eventually on the constitution, which some ascetics, reasoning from 192 USES OF WINE. their own experience, would have the world imagine. In most cases the moderate use or entire avoidance of wine seems a matter of indifference, so far as the constitution is concerned. The habitual use of wine is safest or most salutary when the habit is united with regular exercise out of doors, and most hurtful when the occupation is sedentary and the mind much exerted. That an abuse of the good things which the Creator has bestowed for the enjoyment of man should be followed by just punishment, in the mis- erable consequences that succeed excessive indul- gence, is just and natural. The intemperate man in the use of strong brandied wines will find his reward ; but it is singular enough, that in proportion as drunkards have abounded in any nation, the wines drunk there have been more sophisticated, and strengthened with substances foreign to them. The healthy stomach relishes plain food ; the sickly one must be pampered with savory or spiced dishes. The truth of this is clear ; we have the " mixed wine " of the Hebrews in proof Like the taste too general in England, from which the better classes and people of information are most exempt, "strong drink " is that which is most desired. Pure wine is chill to the arid and burning stomach. The Jews knew nothing of the product of the still, but strengthened and mixed their wines with stimulat- ing and intoxicating herbs. The denunciations in the Scriptures are against mixed wine : " They that go seek mixed vrine" — " Wo to them that are mighty USES OF WINE. 193 to drink, and men of strength to mingh strong drinh " (shekhar laiB). The Greeks and Romans rendered wine more intoxicating by the use of strong aro- matics. Turpentine, resin, and pitch were mingled with them for this purpose. Distillation being un- known, spices or hot peppery substances were had recourse to in certain countries ; but the very use of these adulterations shows that the stomachs which relished them, had either first been debauched and de- bilitated by excess, or that health and social cheerful- ness were not objects in the vinous draught, but that a stimulant, operating rapidly and producing ebriety with speed, was the real thing sought after. In the West Indies, formerly, when a stomach was wellnigh worn out, the acceptable stimulant taken as a cordial was a glass of brandy with Cayenne pepper in it, usually termed " a flash of lightning.!' It is no marvel that, to persons inured to the burn- ing product of high distillation, the generous soul- enlivening juice of the vine, in its pure state, should be cold and inert as spring-water. Pure wine was not made for men who can drink two or three bot- tles at a sitting, and scarcely deserve to be ranked above the brute creation. Lafite or Burgundy to such palates would be spring- water. If they drink wine at all, it must be adulterated with alcohol ; yet the fondness of the northern nations of Europe for strong drink does not prevent them from relishing natural wine. In Sweden, where ardent spirits are much drunk, wine is enjoyed, as in France, unadul- terated, in its genuine state ; and even in St. Peters- 13 194 USES OF WINE. burgh, where the strongest product of the still is consumed, respectable people drink wine in its pure state. To the foregoing observations may be added the following testimonials to the beneficial use of pure wine: The late President Jefferson, in his Memoirs, says : " I rejoice, as a moralist, at the prospect of a ■reduction of the duties on wine by our national le- gislature. It is an error to view a tax on that liquor as merely a tax on the rich. It is a prohibi- tion of its use to the middling classes of our citizens, and a condemnation of them to the poison of spirits, which is desolating their hom^s. No nation is drunken, where wine is cheap;, and none sober, where the dearness of wine substitutes ardent spir- its as the common beverage." Doctor Sigmond well observes: "Good wine is a cordial, a good cordial, a fine stomachic, and taken at its proper season, invigorates the mind and body, and gives life an additional charm. There can be found no substitutes for the fermented liquors that can enable man to sustain the mental and bodi- ly labor which the artificial habits of society so con- stantly demand. Temperance and moderation are virtues essential to our happiness ; but a total absti- nence from the enjoyments which the bounteous hand of Nature has provided, is as unwise as it is ungrateful. If, on the one hand, disease and sorrow attend the abuse of vinous liquors, innocent gay- ety, additional strength and power of mind, and an USES OF WESTE. 195 increased capability of encountering the ever-vary- ing agitation of life, are amongst the many good results which spring from a well-regulated diet in which the vinous product bears its just proportion and adaptation." The late Doctor Adam Clarke states that " "Wine in moderate quantity has a wondrous ten- dency to revive and invigorate the human being. Ardent spirits exhilarate, but they exhaust the strength; and every dose leaves man the worse. Unadulterated wine, on the contrary, exhilarates and invigorates : it makes him cheerful, and pro- vides for the continuance of that cheerfulness by strengthening the muscles and bracing the nerves. This is its use. Those who continue drinking till wine inflames them, abuse this mercy of Grod." Amongst the EoMAJSrS, wine was considered as a medicine ; and was given that the soul might acquire modesty, and the body health and vigor; and it was also believed that Bacchus had bestowed wine upon men as a remedy against the austerities of old age, that through this we might acquire a second youth, forget sorrow, and the manners of the mind be rendered softer, as iron is softened by the action of the fire.* Wine to spirit comfort gives, Wine, to spirit chang'd, still lives Strength to virtue to supply. And nerve the heart in agony. — AviCENNi. * Plato de Legibiu, Lib. II. Vol. VL 196 EFFECTS OF WINE. Effects of Wine. As a tonic and stimulant, the superior action of wine gives it great advantages over other forms o alcohol ; its effects vary in different constitutions, and depend moreover on the description, quality, and quantity used. Old wines are less intoxicating, and in all cases to be preferred to new, the alcoholic strength being much diminished, and the wine more mature and perfect. Brandied wines (i. e. wines to which brandy is added) are decidedly injurious to the constitution, whereas pure wines of equal strength are beneficial. The alcohol of wine, when combined in the natural way and drunk in that state, is not productive of those complaints of the liver, and similar diseases, which arise from drinking wines in which the spirit is foreign. It is a remarkable fact, that brandy mingled with other ingredients of the wine by artificial means, is never perfect, and is be- yond calculation more pernicious than the strong- est natural production. Many diseases arise from drinking wine which is artificially mixed with brandy. These diseases are not found from wine drunk pure in the country of its growth. In wine countries liver complaints, for example, are scarcely known. In wine mingled with brandy, the exhilaration is the first access of fever, and the head and stomach suffer severely for the indulgence ; not to comment on the certain ruin to the constitution of the indi- vidual who follows the constant use of such wines, EFFECTS OF WINE. 197 even without taking them to excess, in the shape of indigestion, and ultimately of apoplexy or dropsy. The exhilaration from pure wine is of a very different character, either from the mOde in which the spirituous strength is applied to the stomach, and affects the nervous system, or from its combina- tion with other elements. In one case, as in Cham- pagne, where it is true the carbonic acid gas may be supposed to produce the modification, though in the finer wines of France, as Eoman^e or Lafite, it is the same thing, the spirits are elevated, and even a slight excess in the quantity taken, passes away speedily, nor leaves any ill effect. The effects of pure wines on the feelings, are as different to the spirituous heavy wine as possible ; the former cheer and exhilarate, creating a pleasant ease and buoy- ancy, the latter force on a boisterous artificial mirth, a joy that is like the laugh of unwieldiness or de- crepitude, without levity and that airy feeling which the other kinds always induce. Their effects on the constitution, too, are diametrically opposite, when taken largely. Some wines possess singularly unknown proper- ties, and produce very extraordinary effects. At Arviso, a rocky island in the Archipelago, there is one species of wine made that takes away the facul- ties, when indulged in to excess. At Belfort, in the department of Haut Ehin, France, there is a wine made from the vines of Eangen, which is pleasant drinking but very heady, and produces a sin- gular effect on those who exceed certain limits in 198 EFrECTS OF WINE. the quantity taken. "While seated at the table no inconvenience -is felt from its effects, but on going into the open air, the limbs are attacked so as to render any movement of them impossible, and yet the mind is not at all altered, as in ordinary cases of intoxication. The digestibility of wine is much impaired by mingling several sorts. Even Burgundy or Cham- pagne may be drunk with impunity if taken singly, although they disagree when united with other kinds. The French say their Claret is stomachic, Champagne heady, and Burgundy aphrodisiac. From the preceding it may be inferred that the best wines for use are those that have only the natural alcohol, and a moderate quantity of it ; or, in other words, those that are least fiery by nature. Of these are the French and German wines; Sherry, Madeira, and Port, when sound, and free from the destructive influence of unblended alcohol. The general effects of wine, when used in mod- eration, are to stimulate the stomach, exhilarate the spirits, warm the habit, quicken the circulation, and promote perspiration ; and when taken to excess to produce intoxication. In many diseases it is uni- versally admitted to be of important service, and in almost all cases of languor, and of great prostration of strength, is experienced to be a more grateful and efficacious cordial than can be furnished from the whole class of aromatics. CHAPTER XXVI. OF THE DIETETIC AND MEDICAL QUALITIES OF "WINES. (by doctor HENDERSON.) THE MISSION OF BACCHUS — ^DEPLORABLE EFFECTS OF THE ABUSE OF WINE — INFLUENCE ON NATIONAL CHARACTER — ^PARTIALITY OF THE MUSES TO ITS TEMPERATE USE — pANCER OF YIELD- ING TO ITS FASCINATION — DELIGHTFUL POISON — GENERAL ME- DICAL EFFECTS DESCRIBED — ^PARTICULAR EFFECTS OF CLARET, CHAMPAGNE, BURGUNDY, PORT, CLARET, SHERRY, MADEIRA, VINS DE LIQUEUR, HOCK. Bacchus is represented by Hesiod as the dispenser of joys and sorrows. It may be remarked, how- ever, that his gifts are distributed very unequally among those who repair to his altars ; that the un- alloyed joys are confined to a few, and though live- ly, are unsubstantial and fleeting in their nature; while the sorrows are real and permanent, and gen- erally become the portion of his most ardent vota- ries. They revel for a time in feverish gayety, but the period at length arrives when the dream of hap- piness dissolves, and they awake to melancholy and despair. Doomed for the remainder of their days to endure the anguish of remorse and irremediable 200 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL disease, they discover, ■when it is too late, that in the pursuit of false pleasures they have drained the cup of life to its bitterest dregs. If they should happily escape the more formidable bodily ills which follow in the train of intemperance, they never fail to experience its baneful influence on the mind. Perception is blunted; imagination decays; the memory and judgment are enfeebled ; the temper becomes irritable and gloomy; and a degree of moral callousness is superinduced, which steels the heart against all the tender feelings and refined sympathies of our nature. Moreover, as every fresh debauch occasions a temporary aberration of intel- lect, it often happens, especially when a disposition to insanity pre-exists, that reason is shaken from her seat for ever. But dreadful as this calamity appears in all its forms, it is perhaps an enviable fate, compared to the lot of those victims of impru- dence who retain the full consciousness of their own errors. To them premature death is the least of the evils they inflict on themselves. Such are the deplorable effects of the abuse of wme, from which all the exhortations of the moral- ist, and all the care of the legislator, have been in- sufficient to preserve mankind. Even philosophers themselves have not been able to resist its allure- ments ; but forgetting in their social hours the salu- tary rule, that to forbear is to enjoy, have too often obscured their genius, and stained their reputation by habitual inebriety. If we are to believe Mon- tesquieu, " Drunkenness predominates over all the QUALITIES OF WINE. 201 world, in proportion to the coldness and humidity of the climate." "Go," he observes, "from the equator to our pole, and you will find drunkenness increasing together with the degree of latitude. Go from the same equator to the opposite pole, and you will find drunkenness travelling south, as on this side it travels towards the north." One thing, how- ever, is certain, that this propensity is most preva- lent among barbarous nations ; and it is a consoling reflection to those who contemplate the progress of human affairs, that if the inventions and usages to which civilization gives birth appear at times of equivocal advantage, yet they invariably tend to wean us from gross and debasing habits, and to im- prove our relish for rational and refined enjoyments. A generation has scarcely passed away since it was no uncommon thing to see men of high intellectual acquirements, and of irreproachable character in other respects, protracting the nightly feast, till not only their cares, but their senses, were completely drowned in wine. At present, such disgraceful ex- cess, if ever witnessed, would operate as an effectual and deserved exclusion from all respectable society. It was once the boast of many, that they could in- dulge in these deep potations with impunity. At present no one covets the fame of DaiRIUS, who or- dered to be inscribed on his tomb, " that he could drink much wine and bear it also nobly." An inquiry into the influence of wine on national character, opens an extensive and highly interesting field of disquisition ; but the want of accurate data. 202 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL and the difficulty of separating and clearly distin- guishing them from other concomitant circumstan- ces, would probably prevent us from arriving at sat- isfactory conclusions, or establishing any consistent theory on the subject. Some authors, indeed, have not scrupled to affirm, that in wine countries the cha- racter of the people is commonly analogous to that of their wines ; pretending, for example, to discover, in the choice qualities of those of Greece, the causes of its rapid civilization, and of the unrivalled talents for the fine arts, which were so conspicuous in its an- cient inhabitants. It must be acknowledged, how- ever, that the natives of wine countries, with the exception perhaps of the Greeks and Persians, are much less prone to intemperance than those nations for whom the attraction of vinous liquors seems to increase in proportion as they recede from the cli- mates that produce them. It was the remark of an ancient poet, that the man who drinks wine must necessarily have more exalted thoughts than he who drinks only water ; and the followers of the muses, in all ages, seem to have adopted the maxim, and to have offered fre- quent sacrifices at the shrine of Bacchus. Whether the fire of their verses has always corresponded to the warmth of this devotion, may well be doubt- ed ; but the beautiful lyrics we owe to their genius, when confessedly under the inspiration of wine, furnish sufficient proof of its power of occasionally elevating the fancy, and raising that soft tumult of the soul, which enables it to create a world of its QUALITIES OF WINE. 203 own, and to pour forth its conceptions in the sub- limest and most harmonious strains. " Nil mortale loquar," is the rapturous exclamation of Horace in one of his happiest invocations of the Lensean god — No mortal sound shall shake the willing string, The venturous theme my soul alarms, But, warmed by thee, the thought of danger charms, — When vine-crowned Bacchus leads the way What can his votaries dismay 1 Feancis's Horace, Ode iii. 25. It is in this vehement enthusiasm, this agreeable frenzy, that the fascination, and it may be added the principal danger of wine, to all persons endued with great sensibility, consist, for with them the passions have the fullest sway, and the most marked alternations of cheerfulness and gloom are apt to prevail : — " Dearly bought the hidden treasure. Finer feelings can bestow ; Chords that vibrate sweetest pleasure, Thrill the deepest notes of woe." As the delirium of intoxication advances, the desire to heighten and prolong its influences in- creases ; and in proportion to the strength and dura- tion of the excitement is the degree of depression that succeeds, when the mind exchanges its trans- porting visions for the sober realities of life. Hence the propensity to renew the state of ideal bliss, by a repetition of the stimulus, — a propensity which if 2G4 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL not resisted in the beginning, soon settles into a confirmed habit. It is, however, with the delights of wine as with the other pleasures of sense ; when indulged in too freely, they lose their sweetest charm ; and they are always relished most by those who have sufficient self-command to use them in moderation, and who enjoy them at intervals, amid the more important business of life. Although when drank without restraint, wine can only be considered " a delightful poison,"* as the Persians, who know it chiefly by its abuse, have appropriately termed it ; yet, like other poisons, when administered with judgment and discretion, it is capable of producing the most beneficial effects. Temperately used, it acts as a cordial and stimu- lant ; quickening the action of the heart and arte- ries, diffusing an agreeable warmth over the body, promoting the different secretions, communicating a sense of increased muscular force, exalting the * Ferdusi tells us that Jemsheed was fond of grapes, and stored up for himself some jars of grape juice. After a while he went to seek for a refreshing draught; then fermentation was in progress ; and he found his juice abominahly nasty. A severe stomach-ache induced him to believe that the liquor had acquired, In some way, dangerous qualities, and therefore to avoid accidents he labelled each jar " Poison." More time elapsed, and then one of his wives in trouble of soul, weary of life, resolved to put an end to her exist- ence. Poison was handy : but a draught transformed her trouble into joy ; more of it stupefied, but did not kill her. That woman kept a secret ; she alone exhausted all the jars. Jemsheed then found them to be empty. Explanations followed. The experiment was tried once more, and wine being so discovered, was thereafter entitled "the delightful poison." QUALITIES OF WINE. 205 nervous energy, and banishing all unpleasant feel- ings from the mind. Even in this light, it is to be viewed rather as a medicine than as a beverage adapted to common use; for a person in sound health can require no such excitement of his frame, and by frequently inducing this state of preternat- ural strength, he must sooner or later exhaust the vital powers. In certain constitutions, however, wine seems to cause no pleasurable emotions, ope- rating rather as a direct narcotic, and occasioning only stupor, when drunk in excessive quantity. When introduced into the stomach, vinous liquors may be considered as acting in two ways ; either by their chemical affinities, as they become mixed with the food, or by their stimulant operation on the nervous and muscular systems. Now, there is every reason to believe, that, in the former point of view, they will not assist the digestion of proper nutriment in the healthy subject, but will have a directly contrary effect, especially if they contain much spirit or acid. If they undergo decomposition, a portion of the saccharine and mucilaginous matter may perhaps enter into the formation of chyme, and a small quantity of the alcohol may be taken up by absorbents ; but this principle constitutes no part of the blood, and cannot therefore remain in the system. The neutral salts will, of course, exert their specific actions on the alimentary canal, or they must enter into partial combination with the food. In weak stomachs, however, where the muscular action is slow, even the purest wine is apt to generate a 206 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL deleterious acidity: and the stimulant powers of the alcohol, which in persons of sounder habits are sufficient to overcome such a tendency, are thus completely lost. But that, in persons of the strong- est frame, v/ine does not directly forward the process of digestion, is proved by the derangement of the alimentary organs which always succeeds excessive indulgence in its use. Great drinkers, it is well known, are small eaters, and usually termi- nate their career by losing their appetite altogether. In general, then, we may conclude that the good effects of wine as an article of diet, are refer- able to its stimulating operation on the nervous and muscular coats of the stomach, by which means that organ is incited to greater action, and the flow of gastric juice is promoted. This excitement will of course vary according to the piroportion of the spirituous and aromatic constituents, and the quan- tities of the acids and neutral salts, by which their action may be, to a certain degree, controlled or modified. But although chemical analysis may assist us so far, in tracing the influence of wine on the human system, it is very certain that when of good quality, and fully matured by age, it does not operate in the same manner that an artificial mix- ture of its several constituents would do. It is almost superfluous to remark, that as the stimulant power of wine generally corresponds to the quantity of alcohol which enters into its compo- sition, no this power must be greatly increased in those wines which contain a large proportion of QUALITIES OF WINE. 207 "adventitious and imperfectly combined spirit ; that those wines, therefore, which have a fictitious strength imparted to them by the further additions of alcohol, are rendered doubly injurious to the constitution, is very certain ; for the habitual use of them must be manifestly equivalent to the habitual use of spirits, or rather to the use of spirits and wine together. Many would doubtless be appalled at the thought of draining a whole quart of pure brandy, who feel no reluctance to swallow an equal quantity of spirit disguised with wine. Some in- deed there are, whose peculiar temperament enables them to take off large draughts of this inflammatory mixture, without immediately experiencing bad effects ; but let no one flatter himself that jie_can- continue, for any length of time, to drink even one bottle daily, without impairing his health, and lay- ing the foundation of various maladies, which"are^ always difficult of cure and often wholly irreme- diable. But it is not to the brandy alone that the nox- ious effects of certain wines are to be ascribed. If the original fermentation has been imperfect, or if they contain an excess of acids, particularly the gallic or malic acids, their use becomes highly pre- judicial, especially to persons of infirm stomachs. When such wines are placed within the temperature of the human body, a renewal of the suppressed fermentation will take place ; and what little alcohol they have will rather assist than counteract the acidifying process. The carbonic acid gas, however. 208 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL wMch some of these wines give out in large quan- tity, cannot be regarded as unwholesome, unless from the distention of commotion which it produces. In mineral waters this ingredient is well known to be both grateful and salutary ; and it may partly counteract the deleterious qualities of the half-formed wines with which it is united. These principles may serve to explain the gene- ral operation of vinous liquors on the human sys- tem, and the injurious consequences that ensue from the use of bad and adulterated wines. But as the genuine and more perfect kinds exhibit marked dtfiferences in their composition and qualities, so their effects in a medical as well as a dietetic point of view, are liable to great variation. The follow- ing few facts are stated which appear to be estab- lished with respect to the comparative virtues of some of the principal wines. DOCTOR HENDERSON. PROFESSOR BRANDE. Champagne. Champagne. Among the brisk wines, those The effervescent varieties of of Champagne, though not the this wine, if not taken in excess, strongest, may he considered as are the most speedily exhilarat- the best ; and they are certainly ing of all wines ; they soon pro- the least noxious, even when duce an approach to intoxication drunk in considerable quantity, which is very transient, and gen- They intoxicate very speedily, erally harmless; but indulged in probably in consequence of the to any excess, their effects are carbonic acid gas in which they more than ordinarily pernicious abound, and the volatile state in and they then stand unrivalled in QUALITIES OF 'WIKE. 209 DOCTOR HENDERSON. which the alcohol is held : and the excitement is of a more lively and agreeable character, and shorter duration, than that which is caused by any other species of wine, and the subse- quent exhaustion less. Hence the moderate use of such wines has been found occasionally to as- sist the cure of hypochondriacal affections and other nervous dis- eases, where the application of an active and diffusible stimulus was interdicted. They also pos- sess marked diuretic powers. The opinion which prevails, that they are apt to occasion gout, seems to be contradicted by the unfrequency of that disorder in the province where they are made; but they are generally admitted to be prejudicial to those habits in which that disor- der is already formed, especially if it has originated from addic- tion to stronger liquors. With respect to this class of wines, however, it is to be observed, that they are too often drunk in a raw state, when of course they must prove least wholesome ; and that, in consequence of the want of proper cellars, and other causes which accelerate their consumption, they are very rare- ly kept long enough to attain their perfect maturity. It is also worthy of notice, that in 14 PROFESSOR ERiNDE. the headache, nausea, sickness, and universal derangement of the system which they create. In constitutions subject to affections ofa gouty character, Champagne, even in moderation, is certainly more apt than other wines to create painful sensations in the regions of the kidneys, and in the small joints of the hands and feet. So many persons com- plain of headache even after a single glass of good Champagne, that it should be interdicted wherever there is a tendency to such affections, from whatever cause they arise. Still Champagne is often a strong and heating wine, very deceitful in these respects to the palate. When of superior qual- ity it has the singular aromatic flavor of Champagne in an emi- nent degree, a flavor which also exists, but is covered by carbo- nic acid in the sparkling wine. The latter should, therefore, not be drunk till the active efferves- cence has subsided, by those who would relish this character- istic quality. The prevalent notion that a glass of Champagne cannot be too quickly swallowed, is very erroneous, and shows great want of taste in respect to the peculiar excellence of this wine; to such persons a glass of cider or perry is as acceptable 210 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL DOCTOR HENDERSON. order to preserve their sweetness and promote effervescence, the manufacturers of Champagne commonly add to each bottle a portion of syrup and cream of tartar ; the highly frothing kinds receiving the larges^ quantity. Therefore . contrary to the pre- vailing opinion, when the wine sparkleth in the glass, and " moveth itself aright," it is most to he avoided, unless the attri- butes of age should countervail all its noxious properties. PROFESSOR BRANDS. as one of Champagne ; further, it is no bad test of the goodness of sparkling Champagne to leave it exposed for some hours in a wine glass, when, if originally of the higher order, it will be found to have lost its excess of carbo- nic acid, hut to retain its cha- racteristic flavor. Burgundy. The red wines of Burgundy are distinguished by greater spirituosity, and a powerful aroma. Owing, perhaps, to the predominance of the latter prin- ciple, they are much more heat- ing tjian many other wines which contain a larger proportion of alcohol. Though in the time of Louis XIV. they were prescribed in affections of the chest, no physician of the present day would dream of giving them in such cases. The exhilaration, however, which they cause, is more innocent than that result- ing from the use of heavier wines. The better sorts may sometimes be administered with advantage In distJrders where stimulant and sub-astringent ton- Burgundy. This wine and its various branches are peculiarly heating and soporific ; and when new, two or three glasses frequently excite a considerable degree of temporary fever, attended by a full and hard pulse, flushed face and headache; but the symp- toms soon subside, and are fol- lowed by no inconvenience. These wines, however, should be cautiously indulged in by all persons in whom suddenly in- creased vascular action is liable to pi'oduce any thing more than temporary effect. QUALITIES OF WINE. 211 DOCTOR HENDERSON. ics are required. The same observations will apply to the wines of the Rhone, and the lighter red wines of Spain and Portugal. Port. The wines of Oporto, which abound in the astringent princi- ple, and derive additional poten- cy from the brandy added to them previously to exportation, may be serviceable in disorders of the alimentary canal, where gentle tonics are required. But the gallic acid renders them unfit for weak stomachs ; and what astringent virtues they show will be found in greater perfection in the wines of Alicant and Rota, which contain more tannin and less acid. The excitement they induce is of a more slnggish na- ture than that attending the use of the purer French wines, and does not enliven the fancy in the same degree. As a frequent beverage they are unquestiona- bly more pernicious. Claret. Possessing leas aroma and spirit, but more astringency than the produce of the Burgundy vineyards, the growths of the Bordelais are, perhaps, of all kinds the safest for daily use ; PROFESSOR BRANDE. Port, When old and of good quality, is, when taken in moderation, one of the most wholesome of vinous liquors ; it strengthens the mus- cular system, assists the diges- tive powers, accelerates the cir- culation, exhilarates the spirits, and sharpens the mental ener- gies. Indulged in excess, it is perhaps the most mischievous of wines, and most likely to produce those permanent derangements of the digestive organs, that obtuse state of the faculties of the mind, and those obstinate organic affections, which follow the habitual use of the stronger spirituous liquors. Claret. Claret, or the wines of Bor- deaux, are less heating and more aperient than other wines, and agree well with the stomach when taken in moderation ; if in excess, they excite acidity and 212 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL DOCTOR HENDERSOK. PROFESSOR BRANDE. as they rank among the most perfect light wines, and do not excite intoxication so readily as most others. They have, Indeed, heen condemned by some wri- ters, as productive of gout ; but without much reason unless when drunk to excess. That, with those persons who are in the practice of soaking large quantities of Port and Madeira, an occasional debauch in Claret may bring on a gouty paroxysm, is very possible ; but the effect is to be ascribed chiefly to the transition from a strong brandied wine, to a lighter beverage — a transition almost always follow- ed by a greater or less derange- ment of the digestive organs. Besides, we must recollect that the wine which passes under the denomination of Claret, is. in most cases, a wine that is help- ed or blended. It is, therefore, unfair to impute to the wines of the Bordelais those mischiefs, which if they do arise in the manner alleged, are probably in most instances occasioned by admixture of other vintages of less wholesome quality. indigestion, often rather from quantity than quality. Clarets obtained from respectable sour- ces are agreeable and compara- tively harmless wines ; they are moderately exhilarant, and are the wines fitted for those persons who are easily excited, and in whom the stronger wines gener- ally produce febrile action. Sherry. For a long time the vintages of Spain, and particularly the Sacks, properly so called, were Sherry. Sherry is a fine wholesome wine, and when of due age and good condition, free from excess QUALITIES OF WINE. 213 DOCTOR HENDERSON. preferred to all others for medici- nal purposes. The wines of Xerez still recommend themselves by their almost total absence of acidity. Madeira. Of all the strong wines, how- ever, those of Madeira, when of good quality, seem the best adapted to invalids ; being equal- ly spirituous as Sherry, but pos- sessing a more delicate flavor and aroma, and though often slightly acidulous, agreeing bet- ter with dyspeptic habits. Some have thought them beneficial in cases of tonic, probably without much cause; for, whenever a disposition to inflammatory dis- orders exists, the utility of any sort of fermented liquor is very doubtful. PROFESSOR BRANDS. of acid matter, and possessing a dry aromatic flavor and fragran- cy, which renders it a fit stimu- lant for delicate stomachs; as such, it is a valuable article of the Materia Medica. But, as procured in the ordinary market, it is of most fluctuating quality, very often destitute of all aroma, tasting of little else than alcohol and water, and more or less co- lored to suit the fancy of the purchaser. Madeira, As a stimulant, rivals Port. It generally agrees with the stomach, and when in fine con- dition is a perfect and excellent wine, particularly adapted to the resuscitation of delicate consti- tutions, and to the excitement of the nervous system in typhoid weakness. But, unfortunately, good Madeira wine is rarely to be procured ; the trade overflows with a variety of inferior and mixed wines, of all prices and denominations, to which the name of Madeira is most unde- servingly applied. In its purest form, Madeira is somewhat more acid than Port or Sherry, and is consequently not so well adapt- ed to stomachs inclined to dys- peptic acidity, where it is often complained of as peculiarly heat- ing and irritating. 214 DIETETIC AND MEDICAL DOCTOR HENDERSON. Vins de Liqueur. It is difficult to conjecture on what circumstances the an- cients founded their belief in the innocuous quality of sweet wines, contrasted with the drier and more fully fermented kinds. They may not intoxicate so speedily and ; as they cloy soon- er upon the palate, are perhaps generally drunk in greater mo- deration. When new they are exceedingly apt to disorder the stomach, and when used too freely, they produce all the same effects as the heavier dry wines. In their more perfect state they may answer the purpose of agree- able and useful cordials; but as the excess of saccharine matter retards their stimulant opera- tion, they ought always to be taken in small quantities at a time. PROCESSOR BRANUE. Vins de Liqueur, As the French term them, require little notice in this place, being rarely taken in quantity exceeding one or two small glasses. Many of them are po- tent, aromatic and cordial ; they are generally more agreeable to the palate than beneficial to the stomach, with which they usual- ly disagree, if indulged in be- yond the usual prescribed quan- tity. DOCTOR HENDERSON. Sbch. The lighter wines of the Rhine, and those of the Moselle, are much more refrigerant than any of the preceding, and are fre- quently-prescribed, in the countries where they grow, with a view to their diuretic properties. In certain species of fever accompa- nied by a low pulse and great nervous exhaustion, they have been found to possess considerable efficacy, and may certainly be given with more safety than most other kinds : as the proportion of alcohol in them is small, and its effects are moderated by the presence of free acids. They are also said to be of service in diminishing obesity. QUALITIES OF WINE. 215 The quantity of these wines which may be taken with impunity, and the proportions requisite to ful- fil certain indications in disease, is greatly dependent upon their quality, and they accordingly either pro- duce the genial effects of genuine fermented liquors, or the febrile excitement of the products of the still, even when taken in due moderation. Thus it is that a single glass of tavern wine often heats and creates headache and disturbs digestion, in persons who are not habitually accustomed to the compounds which, at such places, frequently bear the name of wine. It may not be out of place to remark, that the acidity of stomach and other symptoms of indiges- tion which follow occasional indulgence in wine, may to a great extent be prevented by a dose of magnesia at bed time, which saturates the acid in the stomach, allays the febrile action, and passes off the next day by the bowels. In certain conditions of the stomach which arises from too free indulgence in the pleasures of the table, hot water will allay the uneasy feelings more effectually than cold. An immediate cure for intoxication has been discovered by a French chemist; it is acetate of am- monia dissolved in sugar and water. CHAPTER XXVII. OF THE ART OF DRINKING WINE. (by cybus redding.) intempekance not induced by pure wine — the abuse, not the use of wine condemned — aetof dkinking- wine — mode practised bt different nations — wines at public and private entertainments — the french mode usually adopted — wine glasses and cups — the object of takufg wine — the true enjoter — the abuser op it — modera- tion the only safety. There is one distinction should be made respect- ing the abuse of wine, in the character of a modern people ; this is the separation of inebriety by wine from that produced by agents not the product of vinous fermentation. There are few individuals comparatively, among the intemperate, who can lay the fault upon wine, in this country, if the pure juice of the grape be understood by that term. It is the produce of the still, mingled with wine, that operates the mischief when wine is concerned at all. No wine is worthy to be drunk in a highly civilized community which is not made of grapes alone, care- fully selected from vines upon which practised labor AET OF DEINKING WINE. 217 has bestowed the proper culture, and that is not carried through the operations of the vintage and into the cellar with the most watchful attention. The northern nations of Europe have always drunk hard, and those who least approach the habits of the more civilized, have been most remarkable for this vice, while in the more civilized countries, the lowest orders of the people have been most habituated to it. In wine countries, people mix water with their wines, and when they drink them pure, take them in moderation. Their wines have no more than the natural alcohol, and wisely used prove a blessing, as they did to old Comaro. In all ages of the world, in sacred and profane history, the abuse and not the use of wine has been condemned. It is painful to reflect how much this abuse has converted what is naturally a blessing, into an evil of no ordinary magnitude ; so difScult is it to mark the limit of rational enjoyment even in the best things. The practice of drinking largely of wine has much decreased of late years ; and though "Attic taste with wine" may be a union as rare as before in any class of society, it is certain that wine was never less abused than in the present day, nor excess more generally avoided. A few remarks on the art of drinking wine may be acceptable to the majority of readers ; and there certainly is as much difference between the modes in which a horse drinks from the crystal stream, and the hog from his trough, as between the different modes practised in accordance with refinement and 218 ART OF DRINKING WINE. education, and vulgarity and ignorance. He that sits down frequently with a party never "less than the Graces, nor more than the Muses" in number, and is the occasional sharer in a debauch with the vulgar, will naturally see the gifts of Heaven used very differently, since the one partakes in a gratifi- cation merely animal, and the other in that which is social and refined ; with the one wine is the sauce merely, with the other it makes the great end and object of the occasion. Nations differ in the mode of using wine. The French take theirs at dinner, the English at and after dinner ; the Grermans sit late and early ; the Eus- sians are only a little more moderate than the Ger- mans. The two last are boisterous in their cups ; the Frenchman takes just enough to make his con- versation sparkle like his own wines, among the ladies, with whom he rises from the table. The English appear to combine the French and German modes. Still the national characteristic of the grave effects of wine on the Englishman remains, owing to the potent species in which he delights ; for just as old Froissart describes, he still " gete drunk very sorrowfully." In the better grades of society, and where expense is of no moment, the purer wines are generally taken ; but great care is necessary in going into company, as to the quality of wine a guest may find before him. If he has any apprehension, it is better he select one kind which is sound, and take no other. At public dinners, with nine-tenths ART OF DEINKING ■WINE. 219 of tavern wine, great hazards are run. In a large company, where the individual is thrown off his guard by speeches, toasts, aind claptraps of all kinds, it is far better to order a decanter of weak cold punch, or very weak brandy and water, and pass the wine bottles as they come round. A decanter of Sherry and water half and half, or even lemon- ade may be substituted — many would this way escape a'fearful headache. It is at public dinners and balls that bad wines (especially Champagnes) are got off, where excitement, dancing and exercise, or the heat of the rooms, make any cool liquid grateful to the palate. With the foregoing caution as to public dinners, or parties where "mine host" is not conversant with good wine, and scarcely knows fine Madeira from Cape, a good look-out must be kept ; this is easily done, for if there is a variety, no doubt some- thing tolerable may turn up. At. tables of consid- eration in society, there will always be good wine of some kind, if there be any one species bad at all. It is not a good rule to drink of too many kinds of wine at dinner. A glass of full-bodied white wine should follow the soup. Good Sherry is perhaps the best, and then Madeira may be taken until the soup or first course is removed ; then the light wines may be intro- duced with effect, except Champagne, which should be drunk when the things are removing for the dessert. In fashionable life in Great Britain, there are always three, four, or more kinds of white wine, on the table during dinner, besides Port on the side- 220 ART OF DEINKING WINE. board. It is not common to take any red wine with dinner, as witli some dishes it very ill comports. The French usually begin with white wine of some kind, as they frequently take oysters first, with which red wines do not harmonize. The sweet wines and liqueurs should come after the ices. There is a method and fitness in all these matters. In the middling classes of society in Great Britain, where expensive wines are often given, the correct order of things is reversed, and no regard is paid to the course of the dishes, in which, at the moment of taking wine, the guests may be participating. A Frenchman will take oysters and a glass of Pontac or Chablis. Then his soup is followed by a glass of good ordinary red wine, such as Macon. With the other wines he follows his inclination, sometimes Burgundy, Hermitage, or white growths, except, that after the first course is removed, he takes a small glass of Madeira or something similar. The French never decant their finest wines, such as Eoman^e, Chambertin, or Lafite; and they take them out of very thin glasses. Champagne is drunk just before the dessert, and the ices are followed by liqueurs, sweet wines, or a glass of punch; k la Romaine. The wines are never demanded but under the name of the particular: growth. At pri- vate dinners k la Russe, the wines are placed upon the table, but no dishes. The guests help themselves to wine according to their fancy. The dishes are on side tables, the guests being presented with a card of variety for that day, so that each may order ART OF DRINKING WINE. 221 the servants to bring what most pleases his fancy. The centre of the table is commonly decorated with an ornament, near which the wines are placed, when the table happens to be circular. Sometimes the servants pour out the wines. In most other coun- tries of the civilized world, in good society, the French mode is imitated pretty closely in the variety of wines, times and mode of taking them. German wines of all kinds, are taken out of green or colored glasses, after the manner of the country, although no reason can be assigned why the beauti- ful amber color of the old Hock wines should be obscured by using dark-colored wine glasses. In winter, when a bottle of wine instead of being bright looks clouded, it is the effect of excessive cold, and should be placed in a room where the temper- ature is warm, for two hours or so before dinner; this precaution is quite necessary with Port wine, as it invariably becomes turbid by exposure to cold. The strong wines, such as Madeira, Sherry, and Port, may be decanted for use ; but this should not be done with the delicate French and German wines, either red or white, because their bouquet and freshness are thereby aifected. It is for this reason that such wines are best drunk out of the bottle, the moment the cork is drawn, and without decant- ing. Wines in which the deposit is loose in the bottle must be steadily decanted, otherwise, if set in motion no strainer will cure it. The brilliancy of these wines can only be secured by keeping the 222 ART OF DRINKING WINE. same side of the bottle up that was uppermost, and not running it too close to the sediment when decant- ing. All delicate wines should be taken out of thin white glasses. The reason why wines of this class drink better out of such glasses, it is impossible to say. If we could divide a soap bubble in two, while floating in the zephyr, we should have a per- fect bowl, out of which to quaff Sillery, Lafite, or Eoman^e. The great objection to the use of thin wine glasses, except to the opulent, is the facility with which they are broken by servants, which renders them expensive. To a man of taste in these matters, Sillery and Lafite would lose half their flavor in heavy coarse glasses, though to the thick ' oily wines de liqueur, or to the strong, or sweet wines, the said rule of adaptation does not seem to apply. The glass, and the- specific gravity of the wine, should harmonize. The ancients had a passion for particular wine cups. The rich murrhine cup, out of which the emperors and patricians drank their Falernian wine, the Surrentine, the cups or vases of Saguntum in Spain, and so on. The murrhine cup was the great luxury, because it imparted a perfume to the wine drank out of it. The modern preference of thin glasses for the first class wines, has there- fore the merit of a species of precedent. The art of taking wine is the science of excit- ing agreeable conversation, and eliciting brilliant thoughts for an idle hour between the repast and the drawing-room. "Wine makes some men dull : AET OF DRINKING WINE. 228 such persons on no account should drink the strong brandied wines of the south, but confine themselves to the light red French growths, or to the white, , pregnant with carbonic gas. If these fail to promote cheerfulness; if with light Burgundy, with Lafite, or the ethereal sparkle of Champagne, a man con- tinue unmoved, he may depend the innocent use of wine cannot be his. He may excite himself by the stronger kinds, and half intoxicate himself to raise a leaven of agreeability which is altogether artifi- cial ; he may woo mirth "sorrowfully," but he will only injure his stomach and cloud his brain. Often- times do Englishmen drink themselves into tacitur- nity below-stairs, then ascend to the drawing-room, and sit silent and solemn as so many Quakers, among the fair sex. Such are past the stage of innocent excitement by a rational quantity of the juice of the grape. They take it because the effect is a tempora- ry indifference, and an agreeable suspense from pleas- ure and from pain. Such are not the true enjoyers of wine in its legitimate use ; and they should al- ways rise and retire with the ladies, for the effect upon them is that of a narcotic. The true enjoyer of wine finds it to exhilarate the spirits, increase the memory, promote cheerful- ness ; or if he be something of a wit, it draws out his hoarded stores of good sayings and lively repartees, during the moment of relaxation from thought, at the hour when it is good "to sit awhile." This cheerful glass calls into action his better qualities, as with the ruby liquid he swallows " a sunbeam of 224 AET OF DRINKING WINE. the sky." He makes his wine secondary to his con- versation, and when he finds the latter at what he thinks its keenest edge and brightest polish, he leaves the table to mingle with beauty, and ex- change the wine for a sparkle of more attractive and higher character — perhaps to bask in " the pur- ple light of love." He who would destroy good wine by taking it when its flavor is no longer fresh to the palate, is a drunkard ; he knows nothing of tthe refinement in animal enjoyment, which consists I in taking rather less than enough. Always to rise 'from the feast with an appetite is a maxim which, however gourmands and sensualists may despise it, is the course for a rational being, as well as that which yields the richest enjoyment. By this we preserve the freshness of the first taste, the full fla- vor of the first sip : as the odor of the rose deadens upon the sense after the first exhalation, so it is with wine and with all our enjoyments. Thus we learn how we may, in the truest and most refined sense, enjoy the pleasures by which the benevolence of HIM, who has given us the things enjoyed, is best re- paid by our enjoying wisely. Those whose standard of excellence in wine is its potency and inebriating qualities, imagine as long as they can get it into the stomach, it is no matter how the thing is done. Such persons may be styled " stomach drinkers," and may as well attain the lodgement of the fluid in the part desired by means of a forcing-pump and a tube, as any other mode. The palate to theoi is secondary to the warmth of this general magazine of liquids ART OF DRINKING WINE. 225 and solids. One of true vino-grapliical taste, must feel horror at association over wine with such per- sons. A refinement even in our sins is better than the grossness of the coarser natures of mankind in animal vices. How much does this tell in innocent enjoyment. As Chesterfield felt when his son lick- ed the plate at table, despite all his instructions in good*breeding, it may be imagined how the man of refinement feels in the company of coarse and vulgar companions over wine. One half our pleasures are relative and conventional, and therefore this alloy in any mode turns them to pain. The chief thing in the art of drinking wine, is to keep within those salutary limits which mark the beneficial from the pernicious. In good society in the present day, this line is well defined ; but a man must mingle in this distempered life, with every class, and the difiiculty is to keep the mean in those cases, where others have no regard to it. This is done by studying self-respect, and the art of saying " no," when the necessity for saying no is strongly felt. The courage to do this, and that absence of all fear of being accounted singular, — which it is a man's duty to cultivate, if he wish to be thought worthy of his species, will prevent his suffering in stomach, or moral character from that table complaisance which the too pliant have forced upon them contrary to their better feelings. 16 CHAPTER XXVIII. MISCELLANIES. ICING WINI^ — COFFEE AFTER WINE — BUMPER GLASS WASSAIL BOWL — ^PLEDGING AND DRINKING HEALTHS — HIP ! HIP ! HUR- RAH ! Icing Wine. The choicest vines are frequently iced, whicli is very injurious to their qualities, and prevents a due appreciation of their intrinsic excellence. It is a com- mon practice at balls and other public entertainments, to highly ice wines of low grades, thus disguising their inferiority, in order to make them drink more pala- table. Hock gains strength by cold, and is much improved by icing. Sparkling Champagnes are usually iced, in order to repress the tendency to effer- vesce ; but only to such an extent as may be found compatible with the more perfect flavor that we desire to find in them — Silhry sec or Still Champagne is invariably iced. With the exception of the preced- ing named wines, and perhaps one or two others, all the first growth qualities should be merely cooled, and drunk at the temperature of 60° Fahrenheit, even during the extreme summer heat. MISCELLANIES. 227 Coffee after Wine. The system adopted, in imitation of the French custom, of taking strong Coffee after wine, though so very agreeable, is injurious, if the wines taken during the meal have been Port, Sherry, or Madei- ra ; but not so if those of a lighter quality have been drunk. Great excitement attends upon this indul- gence, for coffee has a great influence on the stom- ach, and likewise upon the brain. Watchfulness of long duration, with a feverish reaction, are its imme- diate effects ; but its distant ones are more upon the extreme capillary vessels of the surface of the body, which it seems to constringe : it affects the skin, to which it gives a peculiar harshness ; and it has been said by some of the French writers to give it color ; and the sallowness of the Parisians has been, by more than one medical author, ascribed to their addiction to coffee. Bumper Cflass. The word bumper, which has strangely puzzled Doctor Pegge and other etymologists, is only a slight corruption of the old French phrase bonper, signify- ing a boon companion. To drink a cup of good- fellowship, or bumper health, may, therefore be regarded as strictly synonymous with the Greek " bumper glass." " Wine fills the veins, and healths are understood To give our friends a title to our blood : Who, naming me doth warm his courage so, Shows for my sake what his bold hand would do." Waller 228 MISCELLANIES. Wassail Bowl. The word wassail is compounded of waes, wish- ing, and had, health, implying the wish of good health — the origin of the term Wassail Bowl is intimately connected with the practice of health- drinking. Mr. Brand, an English antiquarian, of great learning and research, states on the authority of Thomas de la Moore, and old Havilan, that was- haile and drinc-heil, were the usual ancient phrases of quaffing among the English, and synonymous with the " Come, here's to you," and " I pledge you," of the present day. The beverage was a preparation of ale, made by the admixture of spices, apples, sugar, and other ingredients, and denominat- ed wassail, while those who served it were called wassaillers. The annual custom of handing round the wassail bowl, according to Geoffry of Monmouth and other writers, had its rise in the following circumstance. Hengist, the Saxon general, invited Voltigern to a feast. Eowena, daughter of the Saxon, by command of her father, entered the banquet hall with a bowl of wine, and thus welcomed the British king — " Louerd king was-heil," i. e. Be of health. Lord king. The British monarch, through the medium of an interpreter, replied, " Drinc-heile," or drink health. This, according to Eobert of Gloster, was the first vias-haile, and the poet thus relates the occurrence : " Health, my lord king, the sweet Rowena said ; Health, cried the chieftain to the Saxon maid ; MISCELLANIES. 229 Then gayly rose, and 'midst the concourse wide Klss'd her hail lips, and placed her by his side ; At the soft scene such gentle thoughts abound, That health and kisses 'mongst the guests went round. From this the social custom took its rise, We still retain." This occurrence took place about the middle of the fourth century. Since that period, the practice of handing round the wassail bowl has been more or less intimately associated with the drinking usages in the British Isles. Shakspeare alludes to this custom, and says : " The king doth wake to-night, and takes his rouse, Keeps wassail, and the swaggering upspring reels." Baily also refers to it, and says it was common among the monks of St. Albans, and usually placed before the abbots to drink the health of their order. Pledging and Drinking Healths. The ancient custom of pledging healths, is said to have arisen from circumstances which occurred during the invasion of England by the Danes. These haughty conquerors would not permit an Englishman to drink in their presence, without special permission, death being the penalty of dis- obedience. Their cruelty so intimidated the English, that even when permission had been given, they did not take advantage of it, until the Danes had pledged themselves not to endanger their lives while partaking of the draught. 230 MISCELLANIES. It is also said to have had its origin from the death of Edward the Martyr, who was murdered by the treachery of his step-mother Elfrida. Pledging was a security for the safety of the individual while drinking. When, therefore, a person was about to drink, he addressed the guest next to him, to know if he would pledge him, and being answered in the affirmative, the sword or dagger of his companion was raised to protect him while drinking. This custom is now quite extinct ; and with few exceptions, even the more modern one of taking wine at dinner with guests is become obsolete. Hip ! Hip ! Hurrah ! We little think, when the wine sparkles in the cup, and soul-stirring toasts are applauded by our " Hip, hip, hurrah,!" that we are using a war cry adopted by the stormers of a German town, wherein a great many Jews had taken refuge. The place being sacked, they were all cruelly put to the sword under the shouts of "HiEEOSOLYMA Est Peedita." Prom the first letters of these words was the excla- mation contrived, H-E-P, hep. CHAPTER XXIX. WINE PROVEEBS AND SAYINGS. «•!. A cellar without wine, a home without woman, a purse with- out money, are three deadly plagues. 2. A German wasser-boozer, a Dutch Geneva smoker, and an English Port-guzzler, are the three drink monsters.* 3. A bottle of Chambertin, a ragcmt d la Sardanapalus, " and a lady causeur," are the best companions in France. 4. A glass of good wine purges off distempers. 5. A heart for wine is a heart for kindness. 6. A pint of wine and good day to the bottle. 7. A quarrelsome servant, a good horse, and a choice bottle, never stay long with a man. 8. A real wine drinker laughs with his eyes. 9. A two bottle port man is only a wine funnel. ♦Sinclair, in his code of health, states that a Mr. Vanhorn drank in the course of three and twenty years, sixty-nine pipes, or 35,688 bottles of Port wine, a quantity perhaps not exceeded by any drunkard of ancient or modem times. 232 WIlSrE PEOVERBS AND SAYINGS. 10. A new friend is as new wine, when it is old thou shalt drink it with pleasure. 11. Bacchus is a general lover; his eyes are all multipliers. 12. Bacchus has drowned more than Neptune. 13. Bad wine is the guest's horror and the host's disgrace. 14. Beware of the wine vault "facUis descensus Avemi." 15. Burgundy is the wine of princes, Sillery of nobles. Claret of the gentle horn ; and Port of the citizens. 16. Burgundy smiles, Hock winks, Champagne laughs, and Lafite puts a heart into all, 17. Buy Port glasses by the pound. Claret glasses by the grain. 18. By wine and mirth the beggar grows a king. 19. Bad wine is never worth good water. 20. Champagne, like flattery, soon gets into the head. 21. Champagne is like criticism, nothing more execrable if bad, nothing more excellent if good. 22. Champagne looks with peacocks' eyes, and every eye a dia- mond. 23. Champagne glasses should be broad, not deep, with a large surface. 24. Counsels in wine seldom prosper. 25. Decant your Claret if you like, but pure wine should be drunk from the bottle. 26. Drink your enemy's wine ; it's as good as your friend's. WINE PEOVERBS AND SAYINGS. 233 27. Drink what you fill ; fill what you will. 28. Drink a glass of wine at twenty, at forty a pint or more, A bottle but rarely, if you'd add years two score. 29. Drunkenness is the canker-worm of health, and the mildew of the mind. 30. Drunkenness reduces man below the standard of a brute. 31. Drunkenness destroys beauty and shortens life. 32. Every inordinate cup's unblessed and th' ingredient a devil. 33. Fill a brimmer with old Hock, let other wine have daylight through the glass. 34 Good wine should drink smooth, like liquefied velvet. — 35. Good wine at supper makes an appetite at breakfast. 36. Good wine needs no crier. 87. GrQod wine needs no bush. 3:8; Good wine gives good blood. 39. Good wine never needs re-corking. 40. If any invite you to worm out a secret, drink fast and say litt le, it is ten to one the host falls into his own trap. 41. If you are a traveller, avoid taking wine on the road. 42. If an unwelcome guest, take care of the wine. 43. Ill temper over wine, is worse than brotherhood with swine. 44. Hermitage is a church wine in name, in strength, and in pater- nity. 234 WINE PROVERBS AND SAYINGS. 45. Honey is not for the ass's mouth, nor good wine for the fool's. 46. Hockheimer ripe from the golden Rhine ; Is the sparkling crown of all (Jerman wine. 47. Love stole its purple light from the wine cup. 48. Love loves not the intemperate, although Cupid and Cham- pagne may exchange many a glance. 49. Moderation in the wine cup — you cannot kill yourself by proxy. 50. Never drink more than two kinds of wine at a sitting. 51. Never ahuse the wine of your host, few men give bad wine intentionally. 52. Never drink bad wine out of compliment, " self preservation is the first law." 53. Never press wine on a guest, it is ill mannered. 54. Never buy cheap wine j in vinology cheap means dear. 55. Never believe the wine good because the owner tells you so. 56. Never leave wine in your glass at dinner, but revive the glass in the cooler ; freshness is the soul of wine. 67. No wise man drinks wine of two years when wine of one is to he had. _ 58. Of all who take wine the moderate enjoy it. 59. Of good wine none can make bad Latin. 60. Of wine and love the first taste is best; no second sip equals 61. Olives and wine tell what a man is. WINE PROVERBS AND SAYINGS. 235 62. Oo peahen's eggs, with old wine. Kings and conquerors may dine. 63. Quarrels in matrimony and olives with wine give a relish. 64. Red wine poisons oysters. 65. Swallow bread to the full, but measure your wine. 66. Six times a year to be joyful in wine. Shows a merry soul in a body benign. 67. The best amazuttes of wine are nuts, olives, almonds, and water crackers. 68. The bottle is of the aristocracy, treat it like a gentleman. 69. The bouquet of wine comes like a sunbeam, and must be en- joyed at the moment. 70. The Caliban of wine is Port; the Ariel Champagne. 71. The drunkard's fault is not the wine's, but his own. 72. The host who drinks his own wine gives mute though eloquent testimony to its excellence. 73. The most voluptuous of assassins is the bottle. 74. The religion of wine is Catholic. 75. The vine bringeth forth three grapes ; the first of pleasure, the second of drunkenness, the third of sorrow. 76. Thick wine glasses are clovniish, thin ones are princely. 77. Tokay is a wine of more reputation than enjoyment. 78. Value wine like woman, for maturity, not age. 236 WINE PEOVEEBS AND SAYINGS. 79. When the cellar is empty, a man's all is gone. 80. Whisper no gallantries at table, till the Champagne has gone round. 81. Whom has not the inspiring bowl made eloquent 1 82. Wine brings out the truth. 83. Wine of the second bottle is a bad story-teller. 84. Wine wit is the soul's rainbow. 85. Wine kept open all night is not worth a mite. 86. Wine that brightens the eyes, cheese without eyes, and bread all eyes, and fear no starvation. 87. Wine and youth, are fire upon fire. 88. Wine is a turn-coat ; first a friend, then an enemy. 89. Wine, like pastime, is poison in the morning. 90. Wine is such a whetstone for wit, that if it be often set thereon, it will grind all the steel out. 91. What soberness conceals, drunkenness reveals. 92. When the wine is in, the wit is out. 93. Your stomach is your wine cellar, keep the stock small and good. CHAPTER XXX. OP THE WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. BY DOCTOR HENDERSON. DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST CELEBRATED — MATURING — DESIGNA- TION OP VINTAGES — PTTRCHASING — WINE VESSELS — WINE CUPS — MODES OF DRINKING — BANQUETS — DINNER ARRANGEMENTS — LIBATIONS TO THE GODS — CHAPLETS AND GARLANDS — PLEDGING AND DRINKING HEALTHS — RULER OF THE FEAST — ORDER IN USING WINES— SIMILARITY IN ANCIENT AND MODERN CONVIVIAL CUSTOMS. The most celebrated wines of the Greeks were grown on the coast of Ismarus, near the mouth of the Hebrus, where Ulysses received the supply which he carried with him on his voyage to the land of Cyclops. It was a blacb, sweet wine ; and from the evident delight with which Homee en- larges on its virtues, we may presume it to have been of the choicest quality. He describes it as ''rich, unadulterate, and fit drink for gods," and so potent, that it was usually mixed with twenty measures of water. ■• And even then the beaker breathed abroad A scent celestial, which whoever smelt, Thenceforth no pleasure found it to abstain " Homer, Odyssev, 9. 248. 288 WINES OF THE AJfCIENTS. The Pramnium, whicli was a red, but not a sweet wine, appears to have been of equal antiquity, and was a strong, hard, astringent wine, somewhat similar to Port. It was neither sweet nor thick, but austere, and remarkably potent and durable, and like Port, was much commended for its medicinal uses. The Athenians, however, disliked this wine, which they said shrivelled the features and obstruct- ed the digestive organs ; but in these respects it was far exceeded by the Corinthian wine, which to drink was said to be actual torture. It was in the luscious sweet wines that the Greeks surpassed all other nations, and to this class the commendations of their latest poets must be re- garded as chiefly applying. They were for the most part the product of the islands of the Ionian and ^gean seas, where the cultivation of the viae was assiduously practised, and where the finest climate, and the choicest soils and exposures, gave to its fruit an uncommon degree of excellence. Lesbos, Chios, and Thasos, in particular seem each to have con- tended for the superiority of its growths ; but sev- eral of the other islands, such as Corcj^ra, Cyprus, Crete, Cnidos, and Rhodes, yielded wines which were much esteemed for their sweetness and deli- cacy; and it was from them the greater part of Europe was supplied, till a comparatively recent period, with the richest sweet wines. Amongst the Romans the Cecuban, the Setine, and Falernian were the most distinguished. The Setine wine was grown in the vineyards above the WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 239 Forum Appii, and was considered a delicate light wine, and not apt to injure the stomach; SiLius Italicus declares it to have been so choice, as to be reserved for Bacchus himself. The Cecuban, on the other hand, is described by Galen as a generous durable wine, but apt to affect the head, and ripening only after a long term of years. No wine has ever acquired such extensive celeb- rity as the Falernian, or more truly merited the name of " immortal," which Martial has conferred upon it. At least, of all ancient wines, it is the one most gen- erally known in modern times ; for while other emi- nent growths are overlooked or forgotten, few readers will be found, who have not formed some acqaintance with the Ealernian ; and its fame will descend to the latest ages, along with the works of those mighty masters of the lyre who have sung its praises. It was a wine the ancients valued highly, keeping it until it became very old, and producing it only when they wished to regale their dearest friends. At this distance of time, and with the im- perfect data which we possess, no one need expect to demonstrate the precise qualities of that or any other wine of antiquity. All writers agree in de- scribing this wine as very strong and durable, and so rough, in its youth, that it could not be drunk with pleasure, but required to be kept a great num- ber of years, before it was sufficiently mellow. Horace even terms it a "fiery wine," and calls for water from the spring to moderate its strength ; and Persius applied to it the epithet of " indomitum," 240 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. probably in allusion to its heady quality. It was seldom in condition to drink under ten to twenty years of age, and Horace proposes in a well-known ode to broach an amphora which was coeval with himself, and probably not less than sixty years old : but Cicero did not think excessive age in wine a virtue, for supping one evening with Damassippus, he had some indifferent wine presented to him, which he was pressed to drink, " as being Falernian forty years old." On tasting it he pleasantly observed, " that it bore its age uncommonly well." It is generally conceded that the wines of Ma- deira when matured and of great age, bear the most striking resemblance to this celebrated wine. The soil of Madeira is analogous to that of the Cam- pagna Felice where the Falernian was produced; and the flavor and aroma of its wines are similar. The Surrentine wines were also of a very durable quality, " firmissima vina," as Virgil desig- nates them ; and on account of their lightness and wholesomeness, were much commended for the use of convalescents. Tiberius used to allege, that the physicians had conspired to raise their fame, but that in his opinion they only merited the name of " generous vinegar." In these respects they may be compared to some of the secondary growths of the Ehine, which, though liable at first to the im- putation of much acidity, will keep a long time, and continue to improve to a certain extent, but never attain the oily smoothness that characterizes the first- rate wines. WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 241 Whatever the merits of the ancient wines may have been, we have reason to believe that the tastes of the consumers of them were not very refined ; but they may have been equally palatable as the manu- factured trash which persons are often condemned to swallow, under the name of the finest wines ; but when we consider the effects of habit, which soon reconcile the palate to the most offensive substances, and the influence of fashion and luxury, which leads us to prefer every thing that is rare and costly, to articles of more intrinsic excellence and moderate price, we may readily conceive that the Greeks and Romans may be excused for their fondness for pitch- ed and pickled wines, on the same plea by which we justify our attachment to the use of tobacco, opium, and such drugs. Although we may succeed in obtaining a pretty accurate knowledge of the nature of ancient wines, yet it would be unreasonable to expect absolute cer- tainty on such a subject. Homer, and other author- ities of antiquity, seldom speak of wine without using some word to denote its richness, or its honeyed sweetness ; its potency and generous quality. The ancients, it appears, were fully skilled in the rules by which a good and durable wine is to be known. They observed that the wine which was grown upon elevated exposures, and produced from vines bearing a small quantity of fruit, was the soundest and most lasting ; while that obtained from low grounds wa."? generally of indifferent quality. In like manner, those wines which were of a harsh 16 242 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. flavor when new, turned out the most durable; while such as were sweet and delicate at first did not keep long. They also, it appeared, knew how to appreciate the properties of good wines, if we may judge of the account of their respective and distinguishing char- acters by Galen, Pliny, and others. Poets, philoso- phers,, and historians, have all joined in celebrating the virtues of wine ; and must, therefore, be familiar with it in its best and most refined state. It is in- deed highly improbable that Homer would have called the wine of his time " a divine beverage ;" or that Archestratus would have commended the juice of the Lesbian grape for its delicious fragrancy ; or that Hermippus would have extolled the Saprian wine, as giving the odor of violets, hyacinths and roses, and as filling the house with the perfume of nec- tar and ambrosia, when first broached, unless these wines had been possessed of qualities which naturally rendered them as agreeable and as fascinating to the senses, as such panegyrics would imply. Maturing. It was a regular practice of the ancients to force the maturity of wines ; the means employed to effect this was the Fumarium, or drying kiln, in which the vessels were subjected to such a degree of smoke and heat as was calculated to bring the wines to the de- sired point of maturity. This custom was borrowed from the Asiatics, who were in the habit of exposing their wines io the heat of the sun on the tops of their WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 243 houses, and afterwards placing them in apartments warmed from below, in order that they might be more speedily rendered fit for use. Although the tendency of this procedure may, according to our modern notions, appear very questionable; yet, when attentively considered, it does not seem to dif- fer much from that of the more recent method of mellowing Madeira, and other strong wines, by pla- cing them in a hot-house, or in the vicinity of a kitchen fire or baker's oven, which is found to as- sist the development of their flavor, and to bring theni to an early maturity. Designation of Yintages. Horace informs us that in his day it was usual to attach to each wine a label, or mark indicative of the vintages, and of the names of the consuls in authority at the time, in order that, when they were taken out, their age and growth might be easily re- cognized. With the luxurious Eomans this became a point of great importance ; so that to particularize a choice wine, it was sufficient to mention the year it was placed in the cellar, as is abundantly proved by numerous passages of their poets. Pliny affirms that this mode of designating wines originated from the frequent adulterations that were practised in the manufacture, so that they could only be distinguished by the cellar-marks. Sometimes these marks were obliterated by the smoke to which the vessels had been exposed, as Juvenal alleges to have been the case with regard to some very old Setine wine : and 244 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. the custom of placing implicit faith in such a crite- rion, must have given birth to numberless imposi- tions, as nothing could be more easy than to substi- tute one consul's name for another, or to give the semblance of age to a new label. Purchasing. At the Wine fairs of the ancients, various tricks appear to have been practised by the dealers. Some, for instance, put the new vintage into a cask that had been seasoned with an old and high-fla- vored wine : others placed cheese and nuts in the cellar, that those who entered might be tempted to eat, and thus have their palates blunted, before they tasted the wine. As the Eomans lived much in public, and but few had the necessary conveniences for keeping a stock of wine in their dwellings, persons of moder- ate fortune were supplied with a cask, or amphora, as they wanted it, from one of the public reposito- ries, where wines of all ages and qualities were to be had. In their purchases, wine of a middle age was usually preferred, as being the most wholesome and grateful ; but in those days, as well as ours, it was the fashion to place the highest value on what- ever was rarest, and an extravagant sum was often given for wines, literally not drinkable. Such seems to have been the case with the famous vin- tage of the year in which L. Opimus Nepos was con- sul, when, from the great warmth of the summer. WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 245 all the productions of the earth attained an uncom- mon degree of perfection. Pliny and Martial de- scribe it as still inexhausted at the period when they wrote, which was one hundred and sixty years af- terwards, and was sold at the rate of ten dollars per bottle of the present current value of our money ; it was then reduced to the consistence of honey, and could only be used in small quantity, for flavoring other wines or mixing with water. Wine Yessds. The most ancient receptacles of wine were prob- ably the skins of animals, rendered impervious by oil or resinous gums. When Ulysses proceeded to the cave of Cyclops, he is described as carrying with him a goat skin, filled with the rich black wine which he received from Maron, the priest of Apollo. As the arts improved, vessels of clay were introduced ; and the method of glazing them being unknown, or at least not used for this pur- pose, a coating of pitch was applied, in order to prevent the exudation of the liquor. In some cases, where wood abounded, as in the neighborhood of the Alps and in Illyria, wine casks were made of that material ; but the vessels in general use among the Greeks and Romans were of earthen ware ; and great nicety was shown in choosing for their con- struction such clay as was least porous, and bore the action of the furnace best. They had, for the most part, a bulging shape, with a wide mouth ; and the lips were turned out in such a way as to prevent the 246 WINES OF THE AWCIENTS. ashes or pitch, with which they were smeared, from falling in when the cover was removed : such of them as were of considerable size were bound with leaden or oaken hoops to preserve them from rents and other accidents : they were of various sizes, some of them capacious enough to hold one to two hundred gallons each ; and the wine was drawn off as it was wanted for use into the amphora, a vessel which contained about six to seven gallons of our measure. The Greeks gave a preference to small vessels for the preservation of their wines — seldom exceed- ing eight or nine gallons each. The urna was the vessel most generally used ; it was of an elegant form, with a narrow neck, to which the two handles were attached, and the body tapering towards the bottom ; by which it could be fixed, with little trouble, in the ground, and the sediment deposited by the wine would not be easily disturbed by the process of decanting. Those made at Athens were most esteemed ; whence the representation of an amphora upon some of the Attic coins. Sometimes the name of the maker, or of the place where they were man- ufactured, was stamped upon the neck. Occasionally these vessels received a lining of plaster, which was thought to diminish the rough- ness of the wine ; but the more common prepara- tion was composed of pitch, mastic, oil, and various aromatic substances ; and as the quality of the wine depended on the due seasoning, great care was taken to have them in proper order. In some of the re- WINES OF THE ANCIElirTS. 247 ceipts for the process in question, wax is recom- mended as a useful addition to the other ingredients, especially if a dry wine were desired^ but Pliny and other writers condemn its use, as tending to ascency. For the more precious wines, the ancients occa- sionally employed vessels of glass. The bottles, vases, cups, and other articles of that material, which are to be seen in every collection of antiqui- ties, prove that they had brought the manufacture to a great degree of perfection ; even amphorse of glass are said to have been introduced, and Martial tells us that the choicest Falernian was kept in small glass bottles. Wine Gwps. Of the Grreek artists it may, in truth, be afiirmed, that they embellished every thing which they touch- ed. To the commonest utensils they gave not only the most convenient forms, but a high degree of beauty ; and it is from their paterae, cups, and vases, that the moderns have borrowed the happiest models for the furniture of their dinner tables. Considerable ingenuity appears to have been ex- ercised in gratifying their taste for variety in drink- ing vessels, which prevailed among all ranks of people, and which all sought to indulge according to their means ; the rich, by forming large collec- tions of cups, on which the sculptor, lapidary, and jeweller had displayed the perfection of their skill, — the poor, by having their ivy and beechen bowls so curiously carved, that the beauty of the work- 248 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. manship compensated for the meanness of the mate- rials. Some were formed of the purest clay, and dis- tinguished by^their extraordinary lightness. They were coated with a varnish of bitumen and highly polished ; and they were sometimes also imbued ■with aromatic substances, which imparted a grate&l perfume to the liquor drunk out of them. Many of these cups were of solid silver, studded with gold and richly chased, and so massive withal, that when full it was with difficulty that one person could lift them. Of the profusion of plate among the Greeks and Eomans of later ages, we may form some idea from the fact that at the entertainments of the great, the master of the feast occasionally pre- sented his guests with the gold or silver cups in which they had been served with wine. Many per- sons carried this luxury so far as to have their gob- lets richly bedecked with gems; and those who could not afford other ornaments of the kind, trans- ferred the stones from their rings.* It was from the banks of the Nile that the Romans were supplied with wine-glasses, as the Egyptians were early celebrated for their works in * So late as the sixteenth century, when Chancellor visited the Russian empire, he states that the Duke of Muscovy had two gold cups, set with pearls and precious stones, placed in the centre of a large table in the dining chamber, out of which he usually drank ; around these was a great variety of other gold cups for the nobles, and among them stood four cruduceres, or pots of gold and silver for holding the wine, fully four feet in height. At one entertain- ment given by the duke, there were two hundred guests all served with drink in golden goblets. WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 249 glass ; the use of them was very general in the Eo- man capital, and we meet with several allusions in the poets to the frequent breaking of themby those who drank their wine mixe^ with hot water. Such as affected great state, despised what had grown so cheap, and drank only from cups of gold. The murrhine was the most celebrated of all the cups, and was so called from the substance of which it was made. It was very highly prized, and, though at first dedicated to the service of the gods, afterwards came into common use among the wealthy and luxu- rious. Pliny states they were formed from a natural fossil, and dug from the earth like rock crystal. He names one possessed by a person of consular rank, who was so fond of using it, that the edge of it bore the marks of his teeth : yet these marks rather enhanced the value than otherwise, as they served to show the genuineness of the stone ; describing it,he says it had a certain degree of lustre without the bril- liancy of the precious gems ; but was chiefly valued for its variegated colors, and its zones of purple and white, and yellowish red, passing into each other, and refracting the light. Those which showed the broad- est and closest veins were preferred : transparency or paleness of color being reckoned a defect. Much of the beauty also consisted in the tubercles aud crystals which were imbedded in its substance : and it was fur- ther distinguished by its perfume. 250 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. Modes of Drinking. The prevailing practice of the Greeks was to drink their wines in a diluted state ; the proportion of water used varied according to the taste of the drinkers, and the strength of the wine, from one part of wine and four of water, to two of wine and four, or else five parts of water ; which last seems to have been the favorite mixture. The Maronean and Thasian wine was diluted with twenty to twenty-five measures of water. But it must be remembered that the wines in question were not only inspissated, but also highly seasoned with various aromatic ingredients, and had often con- tracted a repulsive bitterness from age ; in fact they may be said to have been used merely for the purpose of giving a flavor to the water. . When Horace was enjoying the retirement of his Sabine farm, he laments that he could only treat his guests with such light wine as the country afford- ed ; but when he mixed in the gayeties of Eome, he seems to have made frequent purchases of the more costly kinds ; and on such occasions his muse commonly appears in her most sportive mood ; evincing, what he himself affirms to be the case, that his numbers flowed more freely when he indulged in draughts of a purer and more generous quality. Banquets. When Homer wrote, there seems to have been but little variety in the entertainments of his coun- WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 251 trymen. Eoast beef was the ordinary fare of the heroes of the Iliad and Odyssey ; no fish, no poultry, no made dishes, appeared on their boards ; probably because such delicacies were not thought sufficiently solid nourishment, or were accounted unseemly to persons inured to fatigue, and braving all kinds of hardship. In the course of time, as commerce ex- tended, and the arts of life advanced, the entertain- ments of the Greeks became conspicuous for the mul- tiplicity of dishes, as well as for the skill and refine- ment displayed in the preparation of them. The gratification of the palatCj which before was deemed unworthy of serious thought, now grew to be a mat- ter of infinite consequence ; voluminous treatises were composed on the subject; and poets and philoso- phers contended for the prize in this novel depart- ment of literature. A complete Art of Cookery, be- ginning with truffles and ending with tunny fish, was furnished by Philoxemus of Cythera, the proto- type of some noted epicure of modern times, who prayed for the neck of a crane in order to prolong his pleasures ; and who when he dined abroad, was attended by pages carrying oil, vinegar, and other sauces to season the dishes of which he might be invited to partake. Even Aristotle is said to have applied his talents to a compilation of a code of laws for the table, and to have been known among his cotemporaries as a lover of fish. Nor, extrava- gant as they may often appear, were the boasts of the culinary artists of those days altogether vain ; for the ample details of their performances, which have 252 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. been handed down to us by the author of the DiEPNOSPHiST^, shows, that they left but little for the inventive genius of their successors to accomplish. Dinner Arrangements-. A revolution similar to that which has marked the progress of luxury in recent times, occurred in ancient Greece and Eome, with respect to the hours of the principal meals. Originally the helirvov and coena divided the day : but when the pleasures of the table had become an important part of the busi- ness of life, they were deferred till the afternoon or evening, in order that they might less interfere with the more serious avocations of the guests. The morning repast was reduced, and the dinner usurped the place of supper. With those who lived luxuri- ously this meal was usually preceded by a collation, at which various light food, such as oysters, eggs, asparagus, lettuce, olives, figs, were presented, and mulsuTn, or a mixture of wine and honey, was drunk.* Then came the first course, consisting of the most substantial dishes; and this, again, was followed by the dessert, at which pastry, fruit, and * Thus at the well furnished tables of France, as we learn from the author of the " Manual de Amphitryons," oysters, either at breakfast or dinner, are eaten before the first course, and before the soup. It is the introit of all repasts ; and in Italy, the dinner is frequently ushered in by dishes of figs, Bologna sausages, &c. The coup d'avant of wermuth, or sweet wine compounded with wormwood and other aromatic herbs, which is customary in some countries, may be regarded as equivalent to the draught of mulsiim. WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 253 Other delicacies invited the appetite, and the stronger wines were put into circulation. At the banquets of heroic times each guest had a separate cup; and- larger cups and purer wine were presented to the chiefs, or those friends whom the master of the .feast desired to honor. It was also a mark of respect to keep their cups always replenished, that they might drink as freely and frequently as they were inclined. The wine, which had been previously diluted to the requisite stand- ard in a separate vessel, was served by the attend- ants, who were either the heralds of the camp, or boys retained for that purpose. Besides these cup- bearers, the wealthy Athenians had their butlers, or inspectors of the wine, whose business it was to watch the movements of the table, and see that all the guests were properly supplied. Libations to the Gods. At the conclusion of the dinner, pure wine was handed round : but before it was drunk, a portion of it was poured upon the ground or table, as an oblation to Jupiter and all the Gods, or to some one deity in particular ; and the cup was always filled to the brim, as it was held disrespectful to offer any thing in sacrifice but what was full and perfect. Hence the goblets were said to be crowned with wine. Analogous to these libations was the custom, which afterwards came to prevail at the Grecian festivals, of dedicating successive cups to particular 254 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. divinities. Thus the first cup of pure wine was sacred to Bacchus, under the name of the Good Genius ; the second belonged to Jupiter the Savior, and consisted of a mixture of wine and water; then came the cup of Health, which was drunk when the company washed their hands; and the enter- tainment concluded with the cup of Mercury, as the patron of the night, and dispenser of sleep and pleasing dreams. These ceremonies, however, were not always observed in the order just stated : they no doubt varied in the states of Greece, and in later ages fell altogether into disuse. Chaphts and Garlands. Previously to the introduction of the second course, the guests were provided with chaplets of leaves or flowers, which they placed on their fore- heads or temples, and occasionally, also, on their cups. Perfumes were at the same time offered to such as chose to anoint their face and hands, or have their garlands sprinkled with them. This mode of adorning their persons, which was borrowed from the Asiatic nation, obtained so universally among the Greeks and Eomans, that, by almost every au- thor after the time of Homer, it is spoken of as the necessary accompaniment of the feast. It is said to have originated from a belief that the leaves of cer- tain plants, as the ivy, myrtle, and laurel, or certain flowers, as the violet and rose, possessed the power of dispersing the fumes and counteracting the nox- ious effects of the wine. On this account the ivy WINES OF THE ^USTCIENTS. 255 has been always sacred to Bacchus, and fomied the basis of the wreaths with which his images and the heads of his worshippers were encircled ; but being deficient in smell, it was seldom employed for festal garlands ; but in general the preference was given to the myrtle, which, in addition to its cooling or astringent qualities, was supposed to have an exhil- arating influence on the mind. On ordinary occa- sions the guests were contented with simple wreaths from the latter shrub ; but at their gayer entertain- ments, its foliage was entwined with roses and violets, or such other flowers as were in season, and recom- mended themselves by the beauty of their colors, or the fragrancy of their smell. Much taste was dis- played in the arrangement of these garlands, which was usually confided to female hands ; and as the demand for them was great, the manufacture and sale of them became a distinct branch of trade. To appear in a disordered chaplet was reckoned a sign of inebriety ; and a custom prevailed of placing a garland, confusedly put together, on the heads of such as were guilty of excess in their cups. Several passages of the Fableaux show, that so late as the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, the above deco- ration of the banquet was still in vogue ; and in England the ceremony of crowning j;he wassail-bowl was retained to a comparatively recent period. Pledging and drinJcing Healths. When the richer wines were circulated, it was usual for the master of the feast, or whoever occupied 256 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. the uppermost seat, to begin the round by pledg- ing the principal guests ; that is, he tasted the wine and saluted the company, or the guest on his right hand if a person of distinction, to whom the cup was then passed, and who was expected to finish its con- tents. At the banquets of the Grecian chiefs this form seems to have been religiously observed ; and even the gods are described by Homer as pledging one another in nectar from golden beakers. When Dido entertained ^neas and his companions, she is said to have called for a capacious goblet of massive gold, profusely adorned with gems, which she filled with pure wine. Having made the due libation to JuPiTEE and the other divinities, she approached the wine to her lips, and then handed it to Betias, who eagerly drank it off; and afterwards the bowl was handed to the other chiefs. To drink in this manner was considered a proof of friendship, and the cup so presented termed a bumper glass. It was also a common practice at the convivial meetings of both the Greek and Eoman nations to drink to the health of distinguished individuals, and to the absent friends and mistresses of the guests ; and the respect or attachment entertained for those whose names were toasted was supposed to be indi- cated by the greater or lesser number of cups which the proposer filled out to their honor. Some were partial to the number of the Muses : but those who studied moderation confined themselves to that of the Geaces. "WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. 267 Ruler of the Feast. With a view to maintain due order in the jjroceed- ings, and see that all the company drank fairly, a leader or president of the feast was appointed, who was either the person at whose expense the entertain- ment was given, or one of the guests chosen by lot. In all matters relating to the ceremonies of the table his authority was absolute, and none durst dispute his decrees as long as he remained in the company ; the rule being either to drink or to be gone — aut bibat, aut dbeat. Alluding to this practice, Cicero remarks in one of his pleadings against "Verres, *' that though he had set at nought all the laws of the state, yet he was never known to violate those of the bottle." In his hours of relaxation the orator seems to have taken great delight in these social parties, where excess was restrained, and the most agreeable turn was given to the conversation, by the prudent management of the president of the day ; and the temperate enjoyment of the luxuries of the table only served to promote the flow of wit, and exalt the pleasures of rational intercourse. Order in using Wines. Although the fact is nowhere distinctly stated, we may collect from the general arrangement of the Grecian banquet, as well as the commendations be- stowed on those wines which were drunk in their pure state, that the more ordinary kinds were used during dinner, while the richer were reserved for 17 258 WINES OF THE ANCIENTS. the dessert. The latter, indeed, must have been al- ways too rare and costly to be used without restraint. But besides this general distribution of wines at en- tertainments, we find, from some verses of another comedy by the same poet, that it was not unusual to have a portion of sweet wine presented to the guests in the middle of the repast, by a female attendant, who is represented as bearing it in a rich silver ves- sel, of a peculiar fashion, from which each probably drank in his turn.* The Eomans, who borrowed most of the con- vivial customs of the Greeks, were, however, less scrupulous observers of forms ; at least, greater lib- erty seems to have been allowed at their entertain- ments to such as chose to increase the strength of their cups ; but in general the same order was pre- served in the service of the different wines, and it was only after the lighter sorts began to pall upon the palate, that the older and stronger kinds were produced. * How similar, in almost every respect, the modern usage, as described by a great arbiter of convivial etiquette. There are two manners of serving the " cmip de miku," either by an Amphitryon who pours it into very small crystal glasses appointed for this use, and who passes it to each guest, beginning on his right, or by a young girl from fifteen to nineteen years of age, fair complexion without any ornament on her head, her arms bare above her elbow ; and holding in her right hand the glasses and in her other the bottle, she serves each guest successively before whom she stops : but in vfhatever manner the " coup de mileu " may be served, itiis. always unique, and under no pretence could any decline partaking of it. — Manual de Ampkitryons. WINES OF THE AJTOIENTS. 259 Similarity in ancient and modern Convivial Gustoms. If we compare the ceremonies and usages pre- viously mentioned, with the convivial customs of the present day, we cannot but be struck with the numerous coincidences which subsist between them. The arrangements of our dinners, the succession and composition of the different courses, the manner of filling our glasses, of pledging our friends, and of drinking particular healths, are all evidently copied from the Greeks and Eomans ; and although certain peculiarities in our situation and habits have ren- dered the use of bumper cups and undiluted liquors not so prevalent amongst us, yet the common distri- bution of wines at our banquets cannot be considered as very different from that which we have been dis- cussing. With another modern nation, however, which has been thought to resemble the ancient Greeks in character, the analogy is still more com- plete. Thus, at all entertainments among the French, the ordinary wine is used with a large ad- mixture of water, generally in the proportion of one to three, except immediately after soup, when it is drank pure. The finer kinds are circulated in the intervals between the courses, or towards the end of the repast, and hence are termed vin d'' entremets ; but with particular dishes certain wines are served, as Ghablis with oysters, and Sillery after roast meat. The coup d'avant of wermuth has been already no- ticed as corresponding with the draught of mukum, and the coup du mileu, which consist of some liqueur. 260 "WINES OP THE ANCIENTS. may be regarded as identical with the cup of sweet wine handed round in the middle of a Grecian feast. With the dessert the luscious sweet wines are al- ways introduced. ALCOHOLIC STRENGTH OF WINES. Table showing the quantity of Alcohol {of the specific gra- vity q/"0-825 at 60°.) containedin the following wines. (according to PE0FES90E BRANDE.) Claret, from 12-91 to 17 -11 Champagne, Sparkling.. " Still Sauterne, _ _ _ Barsac and Vin de Grave Burgundy, from 11-95 to 16-60 Hermitage, Cote Botie Frontignac, Limel, Sherry, from 18-25 to 19-81 Madeira, from 19-24 to 24-42 Proiiortioii ol Spirit per 100 GslCoila 15-10 12-80 18-80 14-22 18-86 14-57 12-82 12-32 12-79 15-52 19-17 17-28 22-27 Malmsey Madeira Port, from 19-00 to 25-i Buoellas, Lisbon, Caroavellos, Hock or Ebine Wines, 8-88 to 14-37 Teneriffe, Vldonia, Marsala or Sicily Madeira Lacryma Christi, Tokay, Aleatico Syracuse, Shiraz, Constantia, Proportion of Spirit per 100 Gnlloiis. 16-40 22-96 18-49 18-49 18-49 12-08 19-79 19-25 26-03 19-70 9-88 16-20 15-28 15-52 15-28 Although the above Table, in the main, may be received as correct, it is, notwithstanding, subject to some trifling fluctuation, arising from the nature of the seasons, the quality of the fruit, the fermentation and mode of manufacture. No two vintages are alike, nor is the same kind of wine, made the same year by different wine-growers, precisely similar. INDEX OF WINES. Amontillado, , PAQB 83 Covering wines, . fioit 149 Arinto, . 103 Cyprus, 132 Ay, . 59 Dibs, . 146 Barsac, . 53 Beni Carlos, . 87 Frontignac, . 76 Boiled wines, . 147 Frozen wine. . 145 Bual, 96 Fuissy, 71 Bucellas, . . 103 Burgundy, 66, 210 Grave, 53 Goutted'Or, . 71 Canary, 114 Cape, . 139 Hermitage, . 73 Carcavellos, . 103 Hockheimer, . 111 Champagne, . 56, 208 ChaWis, . 71 .Tohannisberg, 108 Chnmbertin, . 68 Chateau Grillet, . . 75 Lacryma Christi, 119 Chateau Haut Brion, . 51 Lagrima de Malag a, . 85 Chateau Lafite, . . 61 Lisbon, 103 Chateau Latour, 51 Luuel, 76 Chateau Margaux, . 51 Claret, 49, 211 Madeira, . 94, 213 Clos Vougeot, . 67 Malmsey, 95, 103, 114 Commandaria, 133 Manzanilla, . 83 Constantia, 139 Marsala, . . 123 Cote Rotie, . 76 Medoc, 49 264 INDEX OF WINES. FAGB FAQB Meursalt, . 71 Sicily Madeira, 123 Mont Rachet, 70 Sillery, . . 58 Moselle, 111 Steinberger, . 109 Muscadine, . 76 St. George, . 68 St. Perai, 77 Oloroso, . 84 Tache, . 68 Paxareta, 85 Terms, 148 Pedro Ximenes, 85 Termo, 103 Port, . 101, 211 Teneriffe, 115 Preignac, . 53 Tent, 86 Pomard, 69 Tinta, . 99 Pontac, 53 Tinto, 96 Pure Juice, . 144 Tinto di Rota, 86 Pouilly, 71 Tokay, 125 Rhine wines, 105, 214 Val de Penas, 87 Richebourg, . 68 Verdeilho, 9T Rivesaltes, 76 Vin de Garde, 77 Romanee Conti, . 07 Vin de Grave, . 53 Romance St. Vivant, 67 Vin de Liqueur, 76, 144, 214 Rousillon, . 75 Vin de Faille, 7T Rudesheimer, 109 Vins de Primeur, 69 Vin fou, . • 144 Sack. 84 Vidonia, 115 Sauterne, 53 Vino de Pasto, 83 Sercial, 95 Vino Santo, . 143 Sherry, 8e, 212 Vinum Theologicum, 141 Shiraz. . 138 Volnay, 69 LIST OF WINES ALPHABETICALLY AERANGED, AND COUNTRIES IN WHICH PRODUCED. Nnme. Country. Abasas, Alto Douro, Oporto, Abocado, Xerez, Spain, Abrio, Dordogne, France, Absac, Gironde, do. Adenas, Rhone, do. Affenbourg Hamen, Coblentz. Germany, Agros, Cyprus, Greece, Ahrweiler, Rhine, left bank, Germany, Aiguillon, Garonne, France, Ajaccio, Corsica, do. A baceto, New Castile, Spain, Alba Flora. Minorca, do. Albano, Roman States, Italy, Albi, Languedoc, France, Aleatico, Elba, Italy, Aleatico, Tuscany, do. Aleatico, Roman States, do. Alenquer, Estremadura, Port- ugal, Aleyor, Minorca, Spain, Alicant, Valentia, do. AUassac, Correze, France, Aloxe, Cote d'Or, do. Altenabr, Rhine, left bank. Germany, Description. Port wine. Sherry wine. White, sweet and dry. Claret. Red. Rhine wine. Sweet white. Rhine wine. White, sweet. Red and White. Red, tolerable quality. White, resembling Rhine wine. White muscadine. Red and White. Good wine. Resembling the Tinto of Alicant. Vin de liqueur, not dura- ble. Resembling inferior Bor- deaux. Tolerable Red wine. Do. Red and White, very durable. Burgundy. Rhine wine. 266 LIST OF WINES. Name. Country. neBcription. Altklrch, Haut Rhin, France, Red and White. Alyacoes do Corgo, Alto Douro, Oporto, Port wine. Alzenburger, Breisig, Germany, Rhine wine. Amazoa, Lot et Garonne, White, generous good France, wine. Ambes, Glronde, France, Claret. Ambonnay, Rheims, do. Champagne. Amfuhr, Rhine, left bank, Germany, Secondary Moselle. Ammerschwir, Haut Rhin, France, Straw wine, rich and lus- Amontillado, Andalusia, Spain, cious. Very dry, delicate white. Ampuis, Isere, France, Red. Annay, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Antellay, Tuscany, Italy, Good country wine. Antignana, Istria, Austria, Red and White, good. Arbois, Jura, France, Still and sparkling, good quality. White. Arcetri, Roman States, Italy, Arcins, Gironde, France, Claret. Argeles, Hautes Pyrenees, France, Correze, France, Inferior wine. Argentac, White. Argentiere, Ardeohe, do. White and Red. Arguzaux, Landes, do. Red. Arnfels, Lr. Styria, Austria, Tolerable wine. Arsac, Gironde, France, Claret. Arsares, Jura, do. Red. Artimimo, Tuscany, Italy, Good country wine. Arva, Bannat of Tames- war, Hungary, Good Red wine. Asprino, Campagna, Italy, White sparkling. Asque, Gironde, France, Claret. Assmannshauser, Rheingau.nr.Rudes- Red, similar to second heim, Germany, class Burgundy, Asti, Piedmont, Italy, Good wines. White and Rod. Astracan, Crimea, Russia, Red and White. Aubiac, Gironde, France, Claret. Aubigny, Rheims, do. Red. Augenscheimer, Treves, Germany, Moselle. Augusta, Sicily, Italy, White. Aussac, Tarn, France, White. Auxerre, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Avenay, Rheims, do. Champagne red. Avensan, Gironde, do. Claret. LIST OP WINES. 267 Nome. Country. DeacriptioD. Avirey, Aubey, France, Champagne red, light and agreeable. Avize, Marne, do. Champagne, good qual- ity' Ordinary wine. Avola, Parma, Italy, Ay, Marne, France, Champagne, creaming,, of the finest quality. Azano, Parma, Italy, Ordinary wine. Azy, Aisne, France, Champagne. Bacalan, Gironde, France, Claret. Bacharach, Mayence, Germany, Formerly in high repute. Badenweller, Baden, do. Best wine of Baden. Bagneres, Hautes Pyrenees, France, Aube, France, inferior wine. Bagneux la Fosse, Champagne. Eagnols, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Red. Baia, Naples, Italy, . White, dry, and sweat. Baixes, Rousillon, France, Red. Ballan, Indre, do. Red and white, tolerable Banal Busa, Majorca, Spain, wme. White. Bangert, On the Nahe, Ger'y, Secondary wine. Banylas, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Red and white. Bar, Meuse, France, Grey or rose color wine. Barbe Blanche, Gironde, do. Claret. Baroles, Rhone, do. Red. Barra-a-Barra, Lavadio, Portugal, Red. Barsac, Gironde, France, White. Bar sur Aube, Aube, do. Champagne. Bari, Naples, Italy, Muscadine inferior. Bas Medoc, Gironde, France, Claret. Eassens, Do. do. do. Bassieux, Rhone, do. Red. Bastia, Corsica, do. Red and white. Batard Mont Ra- chet, Baurech, CSted'Or, do. White Burgundy. Gironde, do. Claret. Bazas, Do. do. do. Beaumont, Rheims, do. Champagne, Red Hermitage. Beaume, La Drome, do. Beaumes, Gironde, do. White. Beaime, C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. 268 LIST OF WINES. Nnint. Country. Description. Beausoleil, Tarn et Garonne, France, Red. Beautran, Gironde, France, Claret. Becherback, Becherbach Canton, France, Moselle, secondary. Begadan, Gironde, France, Claret. Bellagio, Lake of Como, Italy, Wine of color and spirit. Bellecave, Vienna, France, Red. Beni Carlos, Valentia, Spain, Red. Berchetz, Adriatic, Greece, Red, sweet. Bergerac, Donlogne, France, Red, called huii coles. Berghausen, Baden, Germany, Good country wine. Beringfield, Bavaria, do. Inferior wine. Bernang, St.Gall, Switzerland, Tolerable country wine. Beru, STonne, do. White. Bessas, La Drome, France, Red Hermitage. Bessinghcimer, Lauffen Wirtem- Called wine of the Neck- berg, Germany, ar, good quality. Beze, Dijon, France, Burgundy. Beziers, Montpellier, do. Red and Muscadine. Bianillo, Elba, Italy, Second-rate wine. Biella, Piedmont, do. Red. Birthalman, Transylvania, Hun- ^ gary. Wine of the country. Bischillato, Elba, Italy, Durable wine. Bischofsheim, Hanau Frankfort, Gei^many. Resembling Rhenish. Blagny, Cote d'Or, France, Burgundy. Blaie, Rhone, do. Red. Blaignau, Gironde, do. Claret. Blanchot, Tonne, do. Chablis. Blandans, Jura, do. Red wine, de garde. Blanquefort, Gironde, do. Claret. Blanquette de Cal- Gard, do. White. visson, Blanquette do Li- Langiiedoc, do. White, sparkling. moux, Blaye, Gironde, do. White. B16re, Indre and Loire, do. Tolerable wine. Blischert, Lintz, Germany, do. Bommes, Gironde, France, White. Bondbn, Rhone, do. Red. - Bonvins, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Borderie, Dordogne, do. Red and white. Bodendorf, Near Bonn, Germa- ny, ' A secondary wine. LIST OF WINES. 269 Bodenheimer, Boija, Bostandschi-Oglu, Bottola, Boudry, Bouillac, Bourg, Bourgereau, Boursalt, Bouzy, Bouscat, Boussicat, Branne-Mouton, Brauenberger, Br6de, Br^zeine, Brouilly, Bruch, Bruges, Brunetiere, Bucellas, Buda, Buokwetz, Burges, Bussy, Buti, Buzet, Cabrides, Cadillac, Cagnes, Cahors, Calabria, Country. Mayence, do^ Arragon, Spain, Crimea, Russia, Placentia, Italy, Neufchatel, Switzer- land. Gironde, France, Do. do. Yonno, do. Marne, Do. Gironde, Yonne, Gironde, do. do. do. do. do. Moselle, Treves dis- trict, Germany Gironde, France, Valence, do. Rhone, do. Rhine, left bank, Germany, Gironde, France, Dordogne, do. Lisbon, Portugal, Ofen, Hungary, Croatia, do. La Drome, France, Meuse, do. Plain of Pisa, Italy, Lot et Garonne, France, DeBcrlptioD. Excellent, light, and del- icate. A luscious wine. Good wine. Ordinary country wines. Equal to third-class Bur- gundy. Claret, do. White Burgundy, table wine much esteemed in Paris. Champagne, do. Claret. Burgundy. Claret. Wine of first quality. Claret. White. Red. Inferior wine. Claret. Red. White, similar to Barsac. Similar to Burgundy. White. Red Hermitage. Rose colored wine. Light wine. White. Montpellier, France Gironde, France, Var, do. Lot et Garonne, France, Naples, Italy, White. Claret. White. Black wine, very strong and durable, used for strengthening weak wines. Red and white, various qualities. 270 LIST OF WINES. Name. Country. Diseriptioii. Calabrian, South of France, A must prepared, to which proof spirit is added; and is usually employed to give strength, sweetness, and durability, to wines which lack these qual- ities. Calhota, Madeira, A species of Tinto, Calmus, Trieffenstein, Ger- many, A vin de liqueur. CaloD, Gironde, France, Claret. Cambes, Do. do. do Camblaues, Do. do. do. Campreal, Dordogne, do. Red.. Campsas, Garonne, do. Red. Canon, Gironde, do. Claret. Cantenac, Do. do. do. Cape, Cape Good Hope, Red and white, inferior Africa, wines. Cape Breton, Landes, France, Red, light colored. Cape Corsica, Corsica, do. Red and white. Carabons, Lot et Garonne, France, Red, deep color. Carbezon, Valladolid, Spain, Red wine of good quality. Carbonieux, Gironde, France, White. Carcasonne, Aude, do. Red, hot, and high color- ed. Sweetish wine, white. Carcavellos, Lisbon, Portugal, Carignena, Arragon, Spain, Red, sweet, Carigliano, Naples, Italy, Muscadine. Carlon, Andalusia, Spain, White, vino de pais. Carlowitz, Danube, Sclavonia, Resembles Cote Rotie. Carmignano, Florence, Italy, Good country wine. Caselle, Borgo Placentia. Italy, Parma, Italy, Inferior wine. Casola, Ordinary country wine. Cashmere, Lahore, India, White, resembling Ma- deira. Cassis, Bouches de Rhone, France, White, sweet. Castelmoron, Lot et Garonne, France, Ordinary wine. Castiglione, Tuscany, Italy, Vino santo of a golden color, resembling To- kay. LIST OF WINES. 271 Castillon, . Castellina, Castelnau, Castres, Catania, Cauderan, Caudrot, Caumont, Causel, Gausses, Caunonao, Cenon, Cephalonia, Cerigo, Cerons, Chablis, Chabriferes, Chacoli, Chainette, Chaintre, Cbalais, Cbambertin, ChamboUe, Cbampagne, Couiitr7. Gironde, France, Borgo Placentia, Italy, Gironde, France, Do. do. Mount Etna, Sicily, Gironde. France, Do. ■ do. Vaucluse, do. Treves district, Ger- many, Lot et Garonne, France, Sardinia, Italy, Gironde, France, Greece, Do. Gironde, France, Yonne, do. Basses Alps, do. Biscay, Spain, Yonne, France, Saone et Loire, do. Vienne, France, Cote d'Or, do. do. Cbampean., Champgcbot, Champignfey, Cbampillon, Cbanos-Curson, Chantergues, Cbapelle de Bois, Chapelle Guincbay, Cbapitre, Cbapotte, Charmes et Meur- salt, Cbarnay, Cbassagny, Chateau Cbalon, Cbateau Cbinon, DeBcription. Various ments, Yonne, do. Vienne, Rbeims, Valence, do. depart- France, do. do. do. do. do. Pay de Dome, do. Saone et Loire, do. do. do. Cote d'Or, do. Yonne, do. Cote d'Or, do. Saone et Loire, do. Rbone, do. Jura, do. Vienne, do. Claret. Inferior wine. Claret, do. Resembling tbe second growths of the Rhone. Claret. do. Red. Moselle, noted for diu- retic qualities. Red. Red, and white sweet. Claret. Red, and white sweet. • Red, resembling Claret. White. White. Red. A harsh austere wine. White. Red. White sparkling. Burgundy. do. White and red, still, creaming, and high sparkling. Burgundy. do. White sparkling. Red Champagne. Red and white. Red, Burgundy. do. do. do. do., white. Burgundy. Red. White. Red. 272 LIST OF WINES. Nome. Country. Oescription. Chateau Grillet, La Loire, France, White superior. Chateau HantBrion, Gironde, do. Claret. Chateau Lafite, do. do. do. Chateau Lamont, do. do. White. Chateau Latour, do. do. Claret. Chateau Margaux, do. do. do. Chateau Neuf, Vaucluse, do. Burgundy. Chateau Thierry, Alsne, do. Champagne. Chavost, Epernay, do. do., red, still. Chaudi6re, Herault, do. Red and White. Chenove, Cote d'Or, do. Burgundy. Chenas, Saone et Loire, do. do. Chesnaa, Rhone, do. Red and white. Chevalier Mont Ra- chet, Chianti, Cote d'Or, do. Burgundy, white. Florence, Italy, Good wine. Chios, Greece, Sweet. Chigny, Marue, France, Champagne. Chiavenna, Griaons, Switzer- land. White, aromatic. Chouilly, Marne, France, Champagne. Chusclan, Gard, do. Tolerable wine. Cindad Real, New Castile, Spain, Red. Ciotat, Bouches de Rhone, France, White, sweet. Cissac, Gironde, France, Claret. Civrac, do. do. do. Clairac, Lot ct Garonne, France, Yonne, France, Ordinary wine. Clairion, Burgundy. Clamecy, Nievre, do. Red. Claret, Gironde, do. Red. Claretto, Borgo Placentia, Italy, Vaucluse, France, Inferior wine. Claux Cavalier, Indifferent wine. Clayvoyon, Cote d'Or, do. Burgundy. Closet, Epernay. do. Champagne. Clos-Bernardon, Cote d'Or, do. Burgundy. Clos de Givry, Yonne, do. do. Clos-Pitois, do. do. do. Clos-Tavannes, do. do. do. Clos Vougeot, Cote d'Or, do. do. Clos de Vezeley, Yonne, do. do. Colares, Cintra, Portugal, Light inferior Port. CoUioure, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Red, dry and sweet. LIST OF WINES. 273 Name. Country. Deociiption. Colmar, Haut Rhin, France, Straw wine, rich and luscious. Combotte, Cote d'Or, do. Burgundy, white. Commandaria, Cyprus, Greece, Thick, rich, and luscious. Conflans, Nievre, France, Red. Conglioni, Val di Massara, Sicily, Tolerable wine. Constantia, Cape Good Hope, Thick, rich, red and Africa, white. Convelinhas, Douro, Portugal, Port. Coquempin, Martigny, Switzer- land, Muscadine, red and white. Cordova, Andalusia, Spain, Red, of good quality. Corfu, Greece, Strong wine. Comas, Haut Garonne, Red, resembling Hermi- France, tage. Comolas, Gard, France, Tolerable wine. Corregliano, Istria, Austria, Wine much esteemed at Venice. Cortaillods, Neufcbatel, Switz- Equal to third class Bur- erland, gundy. Corte, Corsica, France, Ordinary wine. Corton, Cote d'Or, do. Burgundy. Cosperon, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Red. Costiere, Gard, France, Wine in repute at Paris. C6te-a-bras. Marne, do. Champagne. Coteau Brule, Vaucluse, do. Red. Cote de Chanoines, Meurthe, do. Red and white. Cote Rotie, Rhone, do. Red and white. Cotnar, Moldavia, Turkey, Green color and strong as brandy. White. Coudrieu, Rhone, France, Coulanges, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Coutras, Gironde, do. Red. Couture, Vienne, do. do. Cramant, Marne, do. Champagne. Cretzingen, Baden, Germany, Good country wine. Creutzberger, Rhine left bank, do. Inferior quality. Creuze Noire, Saone et Loire, France, Burgundy. Crozes, Drome, France, Red, resembling Hermi- tage. Croissy, Epernay, do. Champagne. Crose, Rhone do. Red and white. Cubsac, Gironde, do. Claret. 18 274 LIST OF WINES. Name. Counliy. Description. Cuis, Epernay .France, Champagne. Cully, Lausanne, Switzer- land, Resembling Rhenish. Cumel, Rhone, France, Red. Cunac, do. do. Red. Cusel, Treves, Germany, Moselle. Cussac, Gironde, France, Claret. Cumieres, Marne, do. Champagne. Damas, Sljiiaz, Persia, Good red wine — keeps well for half a century. Damery, Epernay, France, Champagne. Dannemoine, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Danzenac, Correze, do. Durable wine. Dariste, Gironde, do. Claret. Deidesheimer, Mayence, Germany, An excellent wine. Dernan, Rhine left bank, do. Inferior wine. Desalea, Lausanne, Switzer- land, Resembling Rhenish. Die de Clairette, Rhone, France, Effervescing. Dissay, Vienne, do. Tolerable wine. Dizy, Marne, do. Champagne. Dulamon, Gironde, do. Claret. Ecueil, Marne, France, Champagne. Elzenburger, Breiseg, Germany, Rhine wine. Engehohe, On the Nahe, do. Secondary wine. Epernay, Marne, France, Champagne. Epineuil, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Epstein, Frankfort.Germany, Middling wine. Erbach, Rhine, do. Hock. Erdo Benye, Tokay, Hungary, Tokay. Eriach, Berne, Switzerland, Middling wine. Erlon, Upper Hungary, Good red and white wines. Escherndorf, Wiirtsberg, Germa- Similar but inferior to ny, Stein. Essone, Aisne, France, Champagne. Essoyes, Aube, do. do Etandes, Yonne. do. do. Etna, Sicily, Red and white. Etoile, Jura, France, White. Etsey, In the Bannat, Hun- gary, Similar to Burgundy. LIST OF WINES. 275 Namo. Country. DencriptioB. Eysines, Gironde, France, Claret. Fabas, Tarn et Garonne, France, Tolerable wine. Farcies, Dordogne, France, Red. Fargues, Gironde, do. White. Farnese, Castri, Greece, Good Muscadine. Faro, Mount Etna, Sicily, Tolerable wine. Fenerbach, Fribourg, Switzer- land, Excellent wine. Fickenwein, Bas Rhin, France, Wine that keeps good for a century. Figaa-do Pereira, Madeira, Tinto. Figueras. Catalonia, Spain, Red. Fixey, Dijon, France, White Burgundy. Fixin, do. do. White. Fleury, Rhone, do. Good wine, red. Fley, Tonnere, do. White Burgundy. Floirac, Gironde, do. Claret. Fondellol. Alicant, Spain, Vino Tinto. Forst, Hockheim, Germa- Hock of good quality. Fran, Tarn et Garonne, France, Red. Franconia, Franconia, Germa- A vin de paille ; aromatic. Frangy, Geneva, Switzer- land, Tolerable wine. Frescale, Borgo Placentia, Italy, Carinthia, Austria, Inferior wine. Freyentham, Resembling good Italian wine. Frontenay, Jura, France, Red. Frontignac, Herault, do. Vin de liqueur. Fronsadais, Gironde, do. Claret. Fuencarel, New Castile, Spain, A vin de liqueur. Fuisse, Saone et Loire, France, White. Fumel, Lot et Garonne, France, Black wine. Fundi, Naples, Italy, Ordinary wine. Gaillac, Ardeche, France, Red. Gaillau, Gironde, do. Claret. 276 LIST OF WINES. Galafura, GaUee, Gan, Gannatt, Garigues d' Avignon Garigues Orange, Garnaccia, Gaubischiem, Gaye Sicabaig, Geissenheim, Genevrieres, Georgia, Gervans Rouge, Gervant, Gevrey, Giberwein, Gierace, Girgenti, Giro, Girolles, Glodova, Glogoli, Glyordk, Gonowitz, Gorse, Gorvaens, Goutte d'Or, Graaoh, Gradignan, Graefenberger, Grauve, Grayes, Country. Douro, Portugal, Cote Rotie, France, Basses Pyrenees, do. Allier, do. Vaucluse, do. do. do. Sardinia, Italy, Rhine, Germany, Basses Pyrenees, France, Rhine, Germany, Cote d'Or, France, Georgia, Asia, Drome, France, do. do. Cote d'Or, do. near Vienna, Ans tria, Reggie, Naples, Val di Masara Sicily, Sardinia, Italy, Yonne, France, Menes, Hungary, Tuscany, Italy, Menes, Hungary, Lower Styria, Aus- tria, Gironde, France, Douro, Portugal, Cote d'Or, do. Treves district, Ger- many, Gironde, France, Rhinegau, Germany, Epernay, France, Gironde, do. DeBcriptioi Port. Red. Red. White sparkling. Red. ^ Red. Ordinary wine. Hock. Wine distinguished for a peculiar flavor derived from the soil. Hock. White Burgundy. Wine made from wild grapes. Red. Red, resembling Hermi- tage. Burgjmdy. Tolerable wine. A peculiar wine. Tolerable wine. Red. Burgundy. Resembling Menescr. Good country wines. Resembling Meneser. Tolerable wine. Claret. Port. White Burgundy. Wine of first quality. Claret. Choice wine of fine fla- vor. Champagne. Red and white wines grown upon gravelly soil ; the red are desig- nated Claret, the white include those bearing the appellation of Sau- LIST OF WINES. 277 Name. Couatry. DeBcriptioB. terne, Langon, Prei- gnac, Barsac, Pontao, Bommes, &c. Graviferes, Cote d'Or, France, Burgundy. Gravilllers, Aube, do. Champagne. Gravoso, Ragusa, Austria, Good country wine. Gr^fleux, La Drome, France, Red. Grenache, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Red. Grenet, Gironde, France, Claret. Grenouille, Yonne, do. White Burgundy. Grimard, Lot et Garonne, do. Red. Grises, Yonne, do. White Burgundy, a table wine much esteemed at Paris. Groa Warden, Transylvania, Aus- Good red wine of the tria, country. Gruenhauser, Treves district, Ger- Formerly styled the many, " Nectar of Moselle." Grunau, Presburg, Hungary, Excellent wine resem- bling Burgundy. Guben, Dresden, Saxony, Red and white. GuebwlUers, Haut Khin, France, White. Guials, Douro, Portugal, Port. Guindre, Malaga, Spain, Dark-colored wine, fla- vored with cherries. Guinchay, Saone et Loire, France, La Dr6me, France, Burgundy. Guioniere, Hermitage. Guitres, Gironde, do. Claret. Gysengysesch, Mount Matra, Hun- Red and white, much gary, esteemed. Gyorgy, Presburg, Hungary, Tokay. Hannibal's Camp, Gard, France, Agreeable light wine, crimson color. Haut Medoc, Gironde, do. Claret, Hautvilliers, Mame, do. Champagne. Heidelberger, Baden, Germany, Good wine of the country. Hermitage, Rhone, France, Red and white. Hermitage de Faille, do. do. Straw wine, rich and luscious. Hook, Rhine, Germany, General designation of the Rhine wines. 278 LIST OF WINES. Name. Country. DeBcription. Hockheimer, Spire on the river The first growth is the Mayn, Germany, prime Hock wine. Hoeflin, Austria, Of a green hue, and drank young. Hormidas, Douro, Portugal, Port. Hoenningen, Rhine left bank, Ger- many. Inferior wine. Hospital, Arragon, Spain, An excellent red wine, from the Garnacho grape. Huhn, Neidar, Heimbach, Germany, Rhine wine. Haesca, Xerez, Spain, Sherry of a yellowish color. Isles, Yonne, France, Burgundy. mats. Gironde, do. Claret. Imola, Bologne, Italy, Vin cnit and mousseux. Irancy, Yonne, France, Burgundy. ISOD, Gironde, do. Get. Ispahan, Persia, White. Izeszgard, In the Tolna district, Hungary, A superior red wine. Jau, Gironde, France, Claret. Jaulnay, Vienne, do. Red. Jenorodi Zanie, Ionian Is- lands, In the Bannat, Hun- Resembling Tokay. Jobagy, Resembling Burgundy and gaT. Bordeaux. Johannisberger Rhine, Germany, A dry delicate wine, of Schloss, the highest class. Joigny, Yonne, France, Burgundy. Jou^, [ndre, do. Red. Judas, Yonne, do. Burgundy. JuUi^naa, [Ih6ne, do. Red. Jurancon, Basses Pyrenees, do. Red. Caffa, arimea, Russia, Vin mousseux. Kaiserberg, Hant Rhin, France, Straw wine, rich and luscious. LIST OF WINES. 279 Name, Country. Deacription. Kapleiiberg, Austria, Of a green hue, and drank young. Katchdoif, Presburg, Hungary, Resembling Burgundy and Bordeaux. Kerchenberg, Liower Styria, Aus- Tolerable wine, Kesseling, tria. Rhine left bank, Germany, Inferior wine. Kesroan, Mount Libanus, Syria, Boiled wine. Keintzheim, Haut Rhin, France, Straw wine, rich and luscious. Kissanos, Handia, Greece, Red, resembling Claret. Klebner, Haut Rhin, France, Muscadine. Kleingenberger, Baden, Germany, Good wine of the country. Kloster, Austria, Of a green hue, and drank young. Koesterich, Mayence, Germany, A highly prized wine. Konigsbacb, Hockheim, do. Hock of good quality. Kosrad, Bud^, Hungary, Resembling Burgundy and Bordeaux. L'Aine Mont Ra- C6te d'Or, France, White Burgundy. chet. Labarde, Gironde, do. Glaret. Labusca, Mantua, Italy, An agreeable wine. Lacombe Global, Pyr^n^es Orientales, France, Vin de Liqueur. La C6ie, Lausanne, Swit^ser- land. Dry wine. Lachryma Christi, Naples, Mount Ve- suvius, White and red. Lagrimas, Malaga, Spain, Thick and luscious. La Harpe, Wtirtsberg, Germa- Inferior wine resembling ny. Stein. Lahore, Beyond the Sutledge, India, Wine of good quality. Lamarque, Gironde, France, Glaret. Lamego, Goimbra, Portugal, Resembling inferior Glaret. Lamporecchio, Tuscany, Italy, Good wine of the country. La Marque, Mariigny, Switzer- land, Red and white Muscadine. Lampsacus, Marmora, Greece, Ancient wine. 280 LIST OF WINES. Name. Country. Description. Landiras, Gironde, France, Claret. Landes, La Dr6me, do. Red Hermitage. Landiras, Gironde, do. White. Langon, do. do. do. Lapian, do. do. Claret. La Perri^re, C6te d'Or, do. White Burgundy. Larose, Gironde, do. Claret. Lassurasco, Borgo Placemia, Italy, Inferior wine. Laeseraz, Piedmont, Italy, Effervescing wine, from the Malvasia grape. La Tache, C6le d'Or, France, Burgundy. La Torre, Valencia, Spain, Red. Lanbenheimer, Mayence, Germany, Lighter than Johannisber- ger, fine bouquet. Laudan, Gard, France, Crimson color. Lanfen, Badenweiler, Ger- many, Excellent wine of Baden. Layon, Maine and Loire, France, Good wine. Leattioo, Candia, Greece, Red Muscadine. Ledenon, Gard, France, Red. Leinenhorn, On the Nahe, Ger- many, A secondary wine. Leitschach, Lower Styria, Aus- tria, Pyr^n€es Orientales, Good country wine. Lejas, White sweet. France, L^ognan, Gironde, France, Claret. L^oville, do. do. do. Lesparre, do. do. do. Lestrac, do. do. do. Leuvrigny, Epernay, do. Champagne. Libos, Lot et Garonne, do. Black wine. Lichenstein, Austria, Of a green hue, and drajik young. Liebfrauen-milch, Worms, Germany, A good wine, with fine flavor and body. Liesten, Wurtsberg, do. Excellent wine, Rhenish character. Limouz, Tarn et Garonne, France, White Sparkling. Lindau, Bavaria, Inferior wine. Lipari, Lipari Isles, Superior Muscadine. LIST OF WINES. 281 N«ms. Country. DeBcription. Liplow, Bannat of Tames- war, Hungary,- Good red wine. Lisbon , Lisbon, Portugal, Red and white. Lochfi, Saone et Loire, France, Burgundy. Lossery, Vienne, France, do. Louneuil, Dordogue, do. White. Loupiac, Gironde, do. While. Ludes, Marne, do. Champagne. Ludon, Gironde, do. Claret. Lunel, Herault, do. White sweet. Lussac, Gironde, do. Claret. Lultenberg, Lower Styria, Aus- Good wines, red and tria, white. Lutz, Treiss, Germany, Secondary wine. Luxuria, Cephalonia, Greece, White sweet. Maas, Niedar, Heimbach, Germany, Rhine wine. Macobeo of Salces, Pyrenees Orientales, France, White aweet. Macau, Gironde, France, Claret. Macedonia, Turkey, Turkey in Europe, Red and white. Macon, Saone et Loire, France, Red. Mada, County of Zemplin, Hungary, Tokay wine. Madeira, Island of Madeira, White, dry, and durable. Madiran, Haut Pyr^n^es, France, Red. Magdeleine. Tarn et Garonne, France, do. MaiUy, Marne, France, Champagne. Malaga, Malaga, Spain, Sweet wine with a burnt taste. Malaga Xerez, do. do. White wine, resembling Sherry. Malgae, Var, France, While, Malijay. Basses Alps, do. Red, Malmsey, Various countries. Rich, sweet, luscious. Malvagia, Italy, do. do, do. Mancy, Epernay, France, Champagne. 282 LIST OF WINES. Name. Country. 1 Deacription. Mantes, Seine and Oise, Wine formerly in high re- France, pute. Manzanares, Manzanares, Spain, Red, an inferior Val de Penas. Manzanilla, Andalusia, do. White, vino de pais. Maranges, Sione et Loire, France, Burgundy. Marachina, Sebenico, Dalmatia, Wine of high character, not the liqueur. Marcobrunner, Rhine, Germany, Good wine. Marcs d'Or, C6te d'Or, France, Burgundy. Mardeuil, Epernay, do. Red Champagne. Mareiiil, Marue, do. Champagne. Margaux, Gironde, do. Claret. Marque, Valais, Switzerland, Red. Marsala, Marsala, Sicily, White and red. Marsallet, Dordogne, France, White. Marsanny, C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. Mariillac, Gironde, do. Claret, Marzamin, Carinthia, Austria, Resembling good Italian wine. Masooli, Mount Etna, Sicily, Resembling the secondary Rhone growths. Masdeu, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Red. MasdesCotesPlaines, Isere, France, Tolerable wine. Mas de la Garigiie, Pyr^n^es Orientales, France, White sweet. Maslas, Tokay, Hungary, Tokay. Mataro, Catalonia, Spain, Red. Mayschof, Rhine, left bank, Germany, Inferior wine. Mazara, Sicily, Tolerable wine. Mazy, C6te d'Or, France, Burgundy. M^al, La Dr6me, do. Hermitage. Meconi, Greece, Bad wine, being usually mixed with water. Mercurol, Drome, France, Red and white. Medina del Canipo, Leon, Spain, Excellent wine. Mfedoc, Gironde, France, Red and white, the chief wine district of the Gi- ronde. Meissen, Saxony, Poor wine. Mejames, Gard, France, Ordinary wine. LIST OF WINES. 283 Name. Country. Description. Melinic, Bunzlow, Bohemia, Similar to Burgundy, not durable. Menes, Arad, Hungary, Ausbruch Tokay. M^neser, do. do. Red, much esteemed for spirit and sweetness. M^neser-Ausbruch, do. do. Like Tokay, rich, aro- matic, sweet, not cloy- ing. M^nelru, Jura, France, Red wine. M^nil, Marne, do. Cliampagne. Menos, Menes, Hungary, Similar to Meneser. Mentali, Tuscany, Good country wine. Meresberg, Lake Constance, Switzerland, do. do. Merignac, Gironde, France, Claret. Messina, Sicily, Tolerable quality. Meursalt, C6te d'Or, France, White Burgundy. Mezez-Malfe, Tokay, Hungary, Choice Tokay. Migraine, Yonne, France, Burgundy. Milazzo, Sicily, Tolerable quality. Mirando de Ebro, Old Castile, Spain, Good red wine. Misdorf, Austria, Wine of a green hue and drank young. Modeon, Presburg:, Hungary, Excellent wine, resembling Burgundy. Mogner, Niebla, Andalusia, Spain, Sherry of an inferior grade. Moirax, Lot et Garonne, France, Tolerable wine. Molins, Marne, France, Champagne. Molosme, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Monaca, Sardinia, Ordinary wine. Mondferand, Gironde, France, Claret. Montfaute, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Monlferratt, Marengo, Italy, Red and white. Monnetier, Geneva, Switzerland, Tolerable wine. Moncaon, Estramadura, Por- Resembling medium Bor- tugal, deaux. iMolsheim, Bas Rhin, France, White. Moettling, Carinthia, Austria, Resembling good Italian wine. Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, Good muscadine. Montauban, Tarn et Garonne, France, Red and white. 284 LIST OF WINES. Nnmes of Wines. Country, Description. Montbanicr, Tarn et Garonne, France, Red and white. Mont-Bassilac, Dordogne, do. do. do. Monlagne Verl, Treves district, Ger- many, Secondary quality. Monihazin, Montpellier, France, Muscadine. Monte di Brianza, Milan, Good flavored v?ine. Monte Fiascone, Lake Bolsena, Italy, A strong high flavored muscadine. Monte Serrato, Elba, do. Muscadine. Monte Pulcino, Tuscany, Italy, The most esteemed of the Tuscan muscadines. Monte Spertoli, do. Good vfine of the country. Monthelon, Epernay, France, Champagne. Month^chiSrin, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Montigny, Jura, do. White. Montmeleiii, Mt. Termino, Savoy, Red. Mont-Rachet, C6te d'Or, France, White Burgundy. Monljaset, Paye de Dome, do. Red. Montilla, Cordova, Spain, Dry white wine of good bouquet and flavor. Mont Saugeon, Haul Marne, France, Champagne. Mont de Mileu, Yonne, do. Chablis, table wine much esteemed in Paris. Montzingen, Near Bacharach, Germany, Rhine wine. Morea, Greece, Malmsey. Morey, C6te d'Or, France, Burgundy. Morgi'ot, do. do. do. Moselle, Moselle, Germany, White. Moulin ii Vent, Slone et Loire, France, Burgundy. Moulins, Allier, France, White, very strong. Moulis, Gironde, do. Claret. Mountain, Malaga, Spain, Sweet. Mount Calenberg, Austria, Ordinary wine. Moscatello, Orvieto, Roman Vin de liqueur, not dura- Slates, ble. Moussy, Epernay, France, Champagne. Mouslille, Haut Rhin, do. White. Mozambol, Jura, do. Red. Murviedo, Valencia, Spain, Red. Muscatel or Musca- Various Countries, Sweet wine with grape or dine, raisin flavor. LIST OF WINES. 285 Muscatte, Musigny, Miissy, Nackenheimer, Napoli di Malvasia, Naples Muscadine, Narbonne, Narden, Nasco, Naumberg, Neac, Nebiolo, Neckar, Negro Rancio, Neiderborg, Nerte, Neufchfttel, Neuville, N euvy, Xewbourg, Nicaria, Neuwied Blischert, Niereteiner, Novella, Nues, Country. San Marnio, Italy, C6le d'Or, France, Aube, do. Mayence, Germany, Morea, Greece, Lake Averno, Mount Vesuvius, Aude, France, Wiesbaden, Germa- ny. Sardinia, Saxony, Gironde, France, Asti, Piedmont, Suabia, Germany, Rota, Spain, On the Nahe, Ger- many, Vaucluse, France, Switzerland, Aube, France, Yonne, do. Austria, Greece, Hesse Darmstadt Germany, Mayence, Germany, Vesuvius, Naples, Nievre, France, Description. A delicate muscadine. Burgundy. Champagne. An exellcent wine, light and delicate. The original Malvasia, or Malmsey. A delicate fine colored wine. Hot, high colored inferior wine. Tolerable wine. Good wine of an amber color. Similar to fourth class Burgundy. Claret. Red, with perfume of the raspberry. Moselle. A sweet wine of a yellow color. A secondary wine. Good wine. Similar to inferior Bur- gundy. Charnpagne. Burgundy. Gieen hue and drank young White wine, remarkable for iis diuretic proper- ties. A good wine. Lighter than Johannis- berg, but delicate. An inferior Lacryma Chrisii. While wine. 286 LIST OP WINES. Name. Country. Description. Nuestoed, Buda, Hungary, Similar to Burgundy and Bordeaux, Nuits, C&te d'Or, France, Burgundy. Obernusdorf, Freiburg, Hungary, Similar to Burgundy. (Edenbourg, Lr. Hungary, Red and white, much es- teemed. Oestricher, STayenoe, Germany, Lighter than Johannis- berg, but delicate. CEuilly, Epernay, France, Champagne. Ofen, Peslh, Hungary, Good wine of the country. Oger, Marne, France, Champagne. Olivotes, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Olwiller, Haut Rhin, do. Straw wine, rich and lus- cious. Omados, Cyprus, Greece, Inferior wine. Oppenheinier, Mayence, Germany, An excellent wine. Oporto, Douro, Portugal, Port wine. Orsan, Gard, France, Secondary wine. Oraison, Basses Alps, do. Good durable wine. Orvieto, Roman States, Italy, Dry and muscadine wines, good. Ovieto, do. do. Weak muscadine. Ovieto, do. do. Excellent durable red wine. Palania, In Sirmien, Wine prepared with spices and wormwood. Palma, Majorca, Spain, Good full-bodied wine. Palma, Canary Islands, Rich Malmsey, having a taste of the pine apple. Pallentia, Majorca, Spain, Vin de liqueur. Pallotte, Yonne, France, Burgundy. Palus, Gironde, do. Claret. Pampeluna, Navarre, Spain, A liqueur wine. Panissac, Pyrfefies Orientates, France, White, dry, and sweet. Pnnnochia, Parma, Ordinary country wine. Pardigues, Tarn et Garonne, France, Tolerable red wines. Paron, Yonne, France, Burgundy. Paulis, Menes, Hungary, Similar to Meneser. LIST OF WINES. 287 Name. Countiy. DeBorlption. Paxaretta, Xerez, Spain, Sweet wine of amber color and sherry flavor. Pazolo, Borgo Placeniia,Italy [nferior wine. Pedro Ximenez, Malaga, Italy, Liuscioua sweet wine, fine and delicate. Peittersberg, Lr. Styria, Austria, jood country wine. Perales, Valencia, Spain, Red. Peralta, Navarre, do. White sweet dessert wine. Pericard, Lot et Garonne, France, Black wine. Perrifere C6te d'Or, Gate d'Or, France, White Burgundy. Perriere Clos de la, do. do. Burgundy. Fessac, Gironde, France, Claret. Petit Tokai, Pirano, Austria, Good vin de liqueur. Peyre-blanche, Vaucluse, France, Tolerable light wines. Pezo da Regoa, Douro, Portugal, Port. Picoli, Istria, Austria, Good wine. Phillipsech, Frankfort, Germany, Middling wine. Piatra, Walachia, Turkey in Europe, Light, rivalling Tokay. Pichon-Longueville, Gironde, France, Claret. Pied de Rat, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Pierre Clos, Sdone et Loire, do. do. Pique tte, France, Small wine made from the refuse of the vintage. Pitoy, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Pickerne, Lr. Slyria, Austria, Good wine of the country. Piesport, Treves district, Ger- many, Moselle of first quality. Pierry, Marne, France, Champagne. Pommerol, Gironde, do. Claret. Poches, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Podensac, Gironde, do. White. Podskalski, Leutmerilz.Bohemia Red wines, not durable. Poleschowitz, Moravia, Good wine, resembling Hungarian. Pollentia, Minorca, Spain, Muscadine. Poiigpy, Jura, France, Yellow wine. Pomard, C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. Poncina, Tuscany, Italy, Good country wine. Poncino, Florence, do. Good red wine. Pontac, Gironde, France, While, fine table wine. Portac, Cape of Good Hope Africa , Red, inferior. 288 LIST OF WINES. Pome (i'Allolio, Pont-Ecole, Potensac, Povte St. Marie, Poi-iels, Port Vcndres, Posega, Poulliac, Pouilly, Poujols, Pidaux, Prde, Preignac, Premaux, Prepatour, Priory, Procanico, Prossecco, Pujols, Pulsgau, Pupilliii, Piiisseguin, Qucryac, Queryes, Querard, Quinsae, Quiiuigny, Rat'oule, Radkersbourg, Raen, Rangen, Rasdorf, Rast, Ratrera, Raiilis, Country" Placeiitia, Italy, Tuscany, do. Gironde, France, Lot et Garonde,do. Gironde, France, Pyrgn^es OrientaleS; France, Sclavonia, Gironde, France, Saone et Loire, do. Ilerault, do. Yonne, do. Nievre, France, Gironde, do. C6te d'Or, do. Loire and Cher, do. Catalonia, Spain, Elba, Isiria, Austria, Gironde, France. Lower Styria, Aus- tria, Jura, France, Gironde, do. Gironde, France, do. do. Yonne, do. Gironde, do. Jura, do. La Diome, France, Lower Styria, Aus- tria, Lower Styria, Aus- tria, Haut Rhin, France, Astracan, Russia, Lower Styria, Aus- tria, Modena, Italy, Dordognc, France, Description. Ordinary country wine. Good muscadine. Claret. White, sweet. Claret. Red. Red and white, strong. Claret. White. Red. Burgundy. White. White, good table wine. Burgundy. White. Malmsey. Vin mousseux. Wines of good flavor. White. Good country wine. White. Claret. Claret. do. Burgundy. Claret. White spaikling. Hermitage. Good wine, red and white. Good wine of the country. White. Good wine. Good wine of the country. Ordinaiy country wine, White. LIST OF WINES. 289 Name. Country. DeBcription. Rauzan, Glronde, France, Claret. Rech, Rhine left bank, Germany, Italy, Inferior wine. Reggio, Naples, Resembling Burgundy. Reggio, do. Vin de liqueur. Reicbenberg, Erbach, Germany, Inferior Rhine wine. Rensberger, Tarback, do. Secondary wine. Rethymo, Candia, Greece, Good white wine. Revantin, Isere, France, Red. Ribidavia, Gallacla, Spain, Ordinary red wine. Riceys, Aube, France, White and pink Cham- pagne. Richebourg. C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. Ricbenau Island, Lake of Constance, Good wine of the coun- Germany, try. Ricia, Roman States, Italy, Good wine. Riesling, Strasburg, France, Wine that will keep good for a century. Riez, Basses Alps, do. Red. Rilly. Rheims, do. Champagne. Rimeneze, Tuscany, Italy, Good Muscadine. Rinsport, Moselle, Germany, Second-rate wine. Rivesaltes, Pyr^n^es Orientales, France, Rich Muscadine. Rio, Tuscany, Italy, Good Muscadine. Rioza, Leon, Spain, Good wine. Rocal, Lot and Garonne, France, Fine durable wine. Rodez, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Red sweet. Roche, Nievre, France, Red. Roche-rouge, Rhone, do. Red. Rochegade-Tinto, Rhone, do. Superior red. Roifey, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Rogom^s, Lot and Garonne, do. Black wine mixed with proof spirit, used to strengthen and color weak wines. Roman^che, Sa.one et Loire, do. Red. Romance Conti, C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. Romance St. Vivant, do. do. do. Roquemaure, Bonches de Rhone, France, White sweeti 19 290 LIST OF WINES. Rosonhech, Rosoir, Rota, Rolh, Rothenberger, Rougeot de Meur- salt, RousiUon, R ouvres, Rozan, Riidesheimer, Rugarlo, Rusth, Rutz, Sack, Sailant, Salnendorf, Salo del Christo Crela, Saloinay, Salso Maggiore, Samos, Sance, Sangeot, Sang de Suisses, San Giovanni, Sanlayes, CouEtry. On the Nahe, Ger- many, Yonne, France, Andalusia, Spain, Near Hockheim, Germany, Geisenheim, Germa- ny. C6te d'Or, France, Pyrenees Orientales, France, Yonne, France. Gironde, do. Rhinegau, Germany, Borgo Placentia, Italy, Lower Hungary, Moselle, Germany, Canary, Xerez, Mal- aga, Correze, France, Austria, Borgo Placentia, Italy, S&.one et Loirej France, Pyr^n^es Orientales, France, Borgo Placentia, Italy, Greece, Dordogne, France, S&-one et Loire, do. Basle, Switzerland, Mount Etna, Sicily, Nievre, France, DeBcriptioD. Secondary wine. Burgundy. Red, rich, sweet, and somewhat tart. Hock of good quality. Soft, delicate, prime wine. Burgundy. Red, potent, and durable. Burgundy.' Claret. Good wine. Inferior wine. Similar to (Edenbourgh. Secondary wine. Dry and sweet. Wine of great durability. Of a green hue and drank young. Good wine of the country. Burgundy. Red. Inferior wine. Muscadine. White. Burgundy. Red, good, called also, Hospital and Cemetery of St. James. Red, resembling the Rhone growths. Red. LIST OF "WINES. 291 Name. Country. Description. Sanritch, Lower Styria, Aus-' tria. Lower Styria, do. Good country wine. Sansal, do. do. do. Santeiiay, Cdte d'Or Prance, Burgundy. Santo Antonio, Madeira, Madefira. Santo Domingo, Valeiicia, Spain, Red. Santorini, /\rchipelago, Greece, Vino Santo. Santo Pretasso, Borgo Placehtia, Italy, Inferior wine. Santarera, Lisbon, Portugal, Ordinary wine. Santo Stei'ano, Sienna, Tuscany, Vin de liqueur. Sapolo, Modena, Italy,' . Good wine of the country. Sarepta, Russia, do. do. do. Saumur, Anjbu, France, Mousseux and still.' ' ' Sauterae, Gironde, do. White. Saverne, Strasburg, do. Indifferent weak wine. ' Sayigny, C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. Savigny sous Beaune, do. do. do. Scharlaehberg, Rhine, Germany, Hock. Schaffhausen, do, do.' do. Scharzberger, Treves, do. Moselle of first quality. Schallisberg, Wiirtsberg, do. Inferior wine. Schamet, Rhine, do. Hock. Sciiariach, Mount Scharlaeh- berg, Germany, Fine, flavored, rich aroma. Schelestadt, Bas Rhin; France, Durable wine,' will keep good fifty years. Schierstein, Weisbaden, Ger- many, Tolerable wine: Schiller, In Sifmien, Red, strong, and sweet. Scio, Greece, Wine anciently in repute. Schweinfurt, Bavaria, Geriiiany, Inferior wine. Sciarra, Mount Etna, Sicily, Red, TesembUng the Rhone growths.' ' Semlin, Sclavonia, Austria, Good red wine. Segorbe, Valencia, Spain, ' Red. Siierry, Xerez de la Frontera, The best white wine of Spain, Spain. Shirazj Persia, Red and white, different qualities. Sillery, Marne, France, Still Champagne. Serignan, Vauoluse,' do. Good light wine. SSrra, Corsica, do. Tolerable wine. SerreB, Herault, do. do. do. 292 LIST OF "WINES. NBine. Country. DeBcription, Sercial, Madeira, An excellent dry wine, nutty and ilavory. Serigny, Yonne, France, White Burgundy. Setuval, Estremadura, Portu- gal, Buda, Hungary, Dry and sweet. Sexard, Red wine of the country. resembling Languedoc. Seysseul, Isere, France, Red. Sitges, Catalonia, Spain, Sweet. Soetvesch, In the Bannat, Hun- Like Burgundy and Bor- gary, deaux. Solom^, Vienne, France, Tolerable wine. Solutre, S&one et Loire, do. Burgundy. Sorgues, Vauclnse, do. Reid. Soussan, Gironde, do. Claret. Soustons, Landes, do. Red. Spitz, Vienna, Austria, Good wine. Stadlherg, Lower Styria, do. Good wine of the country. Steeg, Bucharach,Germany, Light Rhine wine. Stein, Wurtsberg, do. Excellent wine, Rhenish character. Fine wine. Steinberger, Khinegau, do. Stellingen, Baden, do. Good country wine. Strang, Neider Breisig, do. Secondary Rhine wine. Stromboli, Lipari Isles, Ordinary wine. Stugerboeg, Rhine, Germany, Secondary Rhine wine. Suma, Dordogne, France, White. St. Agnan, Giionde, do. Claret. St. Albero, Savoy, Italy, Red. St. Ambroix, Gard, France, White sparkling. St. Amour, S&one et Loire, do. Red. St. Andre de Cabsac, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Andre de Bois, do. do. do. St. Avertin, Indre, do. Tolerable wine. St. Basle, Marne, do. Champagne. St. Bris, Gironde, do. White. St. Christoly, do. do. Claret. St. Colombe, Lot et Garonne, do. Inferior light wine. St. Croix du Mont, Gironde, do. White. St. Cyprien, Pyr^n^es Orientales, France, White sweet. St. Cyr Bur Loire. Indre, France, Tolerable wine. St. Emilion, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Estephe, do. do. Claret. LIST OP WINES. 293 Natoe. Country. Description. St. Etienne, Rhftne, France, Good delicate wine. St. Foi, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Georges, C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. St. Georges d'Orgues, Herault, do. Good wine. St. Genies, Gard, do. Red. St. Germain, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Gervais, do. do. do. St. Gilles, Gard, do. Red— called " vin de remr edfe." St. Gyorgy. Presburg, Hungary, Excellent wine ; aroma like Tokay. St. Hippolite, Gard, France, Pleasant light wine. St. Jaques, Yonne, do. Burgundy. St. Jean, Ardpche, do. White mousseux. St. Jean, C6te d'Or, do. Burgundy. St. Joseph, Ardeche, do. Red. St. Julien, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Laurent des Gard, do. Red. Aibres, St. Leger, Rhflne, do. Good wine. St. Loubes, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Lucia, Corsica, do. Tolerable wine. St. Martin, Yonne, do. Burgundy. St. Mexant, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Micliael, Loire, do. White. St. Micliael sous do. do. White. Condrieu, St. Pardon, Gironde do. White. St. Patronis, Capo d'Istria, Aus- tria, Vin de liqueur. St. P^rai, Ardeche, France, White mousseux, delicate. St. Remain, Gironde, do. Claret. St. Sauveur, Gironde, France, Claret. St. Selve, do. do. do. St. Serfe Trieste, Istria, Austria, Red and white, well flavor- ed. Claret. St. Seurin de Ca- Gironde, France, dourne. St. Thierry, Marne, do. Champagne, St. Thomas, Cittanova, Austria, Good vin de liqueur. St. Trelody, Gironde, France, Claret. St. Victor de la Cote, Rhone, do. Tolerable wine. St. Vivien, Gironde, do. Claret. Syracuse, Sicily, Luscious red muscadine. 294 LIST OF WINES. Namt. Country. Description. Syrmia, Sclavonia, Austria, Good full-bodied red wine. Szeghi, Tokay, Hungary, Tokay wine. Tache, C6te d'Or,France, Burgundy. Taillan, Gironde, do. Claret. Taisy, Marne, do. Champagne. Talence, Gironde, do. Claret. Tallya, Tokay, Hungary, Tokay. Tangarog, Russia, Inferior wine. Taormina, Sicily, Inferior red. Tarbes. Basses Pyr^n^es, France, , Red. Tarento, Naples, Inferior muscadiiie. Tarragona, Catalonia, Spain, Red wine. Tavel, Gard, France, Redi Tcaulet, Dordogne, do. White. Termini, ValdiMasara, Sicily, Tolerable wine. Tenedos, Greece, Dry and sweet wines. Teneriffe, Canaries, White. Tent, Xeres, Spain, Redi rich, sweet, and aro- matic. Terni, Near Spoleto, Italy, Good wine. Terra del Campo, Old Castile, Spain, Red. Terrase, DoriJogne, France, Red. Terra ts. Pyr^n^es Orientales, France, Ordinary wines. Thaasis, Drome, France, Red. Thesac, Lot et Garonne, France, Black wine. Thurot, Yonne, France, Burgundy. Tinta, Madeira, Red. Tintilla, Xeres, Spain, See Tent. Tinto, Madeira, White. Tinto di Malaga, Malaga, Spain, Red. Tinto di Rota, Andalusia, do. See Tent Tinto Olivencia, Estremadura, do. One of th> best red wines of Spain. Tissey, Yonne, France, Burgundy. Tizzana, Tuscany, Good wine of the coun- try. White wine of fair quality . Toeplitz, Croatia, Hungary, Tokay, Tokay, High do. Rich, luscious, andaroma- tic. LIST OP WINES. 295 Niune. Country^ DeBcription. Tokay Maslas, Tkay, High Hun- gary, Secondary Tokay, Tolesva, do. do. do. do. Tonnere, Yonne, France, Burgundy. Torenraula, do. . do. Red. Torins, S&one et Loire, do. Burgundy. Tormina, Mount Etna, Sicily, Tolerable wine. Torre, Valeniia, Spain, , Red. Torren-Milar, Pyi^n^es Orientales, I France, . Good wine. Toscalona, Brescia, Italy, Red — considered good in intermittent ievere. Toul, Meuithe, France, Red and white. Toulenee, Girbnde, do. White. Tournon, Haul Garonne, do. Red. Traversetolo, Parma, Italy, Ordinary wine. Trebio, Florence, Italy, Malvasia. Tresqe, Gironde,. France, Claret. Trois Puits, Rheims, do. Champagne. Tronchoy, Yonine, do. While Burgundy. Tropfwermuth, In Sirmien, Wine prepared with spices and wormwood. Tsadany, Tokay, Hungary, Tokay. Tscheremble, Carinthia, Austria, Resembling good Italian wines. Tudela, Navarre, Spain, i White sweet. Turkiem, Hau|t Rhin, Prance, White. Uberlingen, Lake Gonstalnce, Switerland, Good wine of the country. Ungstein, Rhine, Germany, Hock of good quality. Unter Kutzendorf, Austria,, Green hue, and drank young. Vadana, Jura, France, Good wine. Valde^Benas, . New Castile,, Spain, Considered one of the finest red wines in the world. Val di Mariiii, Tuscany,' Good country wine; Valdrach, Treves district, Ger- Moselle, noted for diuretic many, properties. Valensole, Basses Alps, France, Red. Valentons, Gironde, do do. Val-Irdone. Placentia, Italy, Ordinary country wine. 296 LIST OF WINES. Name. Country. BeBcriptioo. Val Mur, Yonne, France, Burgundy (the best of the Chablis wines). Valloux, do. do. Burgundy. Valmare, do. do. Burgundy white. Valteline, Valteline, Austria, Wine remarkable for dura- bility. Vanzelles, Nievre, France, Red. Varez, Correze, do. Good durable wine. Vauciennes, Marne, do. CJiampagne, Vault, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Vaumorillon, do. do. do. Vaux, Vienne, do. Red. Vaux Desir, Yonne, do. Chablis. Venteuil, Marne, do. Champagne. Verdea, Arcetri, Italy, Green color. Verdelaie, Gironde, France, Claret. Verdese, Corsica, do. Red and white. Verdetto, Placentia, Spain, Ordinary wine. Verdona, Canaries, White, resembling Ma- deira. Vergiason, Sftone et Loire, France, White. Vermut, Elba, Italy, Cordial wine prepared with wormwood. Verivay, Cole d'Or, France, Burgundy. Vemaccia, Orvieto, Italy, Sweet. Verneuil, Epernay, France, Champagne. V^roilles, Cote d'Or, do. Burgundy. Veterano, Sicily, Tolerable wine. Vertus, Marne, France, Champagne. Verzenay, do. do. do. Verzy, do. do. do. Vezannes, Yonne, do. Burgundy. Viaros^, Tarn et Garonne, France, Red. Vicenza, Italy, Sweet and piquant Vidonia, Canaries, White, resembling Ma- deira. Vigatto, Parma, Italy, Ordinary wine. Villa-Chiari, Borgo Placentia, do. Inferior whie. Villarinho das Frei- Douro, Portugal, Red. ras, ViUedieu, Tarn et Garonne, France, Red. LIST OF WINES. 297 Name. Country. DeBcription. Ville Dommange, Marne, France, Red. Villena, Valentia, Spain, Ordinary wine. Villenave d'Ornon, Gironde, France, Claret. Villeneuve, Lot et Garonne, • France, Black wine. Villers-Alleraud, Marne, France, Champagne. Vinaroz, Valeniia, Spain, Red. Vinay, Epernay, France, Champagne. Vinitza, Croatia, Austria, Good white wine. Vin cnit. France, Boiled wine. Vin blancs de Garde, Avlois, do. Sparkling wine. Vin de Gausses, Lot et Garonne, France, Black wine. Vin de Cosperon, Pyr^nSes Orientales, Vin de liqueur, to which France, a large proportion of brandy is added. Vin fou, Moulins, France, Very strong wine. Vinde de Garde, Indre, do. Sparkling andstill,dnrable. Vin de Grenache, Vaucluse, do. Boiled wine, with the ad- dition of brandy. Vin de Henry IV., Loire and Cher, do. White. Vin de la Mar^chale, Marne, do. Still Sillery Champagne. Vin de Faille, Correze, do. Vin de liqueur. Vin de Remade, Gard, do. Wine that gives strength and color to weak quali- Vin Piccolit, Freuli, Italy, ties. Resembling Tokay. Vino Cotto, Bologna, do. Boiled wine. Vino Crudo, do. do. Unboiled wine. Vinho de Termo, Estremadura, Portu- gal, Goba light wine. Vino Grwrn, Mt.Vesuviua, Naples, Sweet wine. Vino Morto, Veronese, Italy, Wine deficient in strength ■ and spirit. Vinho Paesado, Pico, Azores, Malmsey, not durable. Vinho Seco, do. do. Dry, not durable. Virio Santo, Castiglione and Ve- Red and white, sweet ronese, Italy, wines. Vino Tinto, Alicant, Spain, Red, strong, and sweet. Virac, Garde, France, Red. Virlade, Gironde, do. White Burgundy. Viviere, Yonne, do. Burgundy. 298 LIST OF WINES. Nsma. Country. Descriptioii. Walporzheimer, Ahr, Germany, Good wine. Wangen, Bavaria, Good country wine. Warzgarten, Tarben, Germany, Second-rate IVToBelle. Wehlen, Treves district, do. Superior Moselle. Weiriheim, Hockheim, do. Hock of good quality. Weinitz, Carinthia, Austria, Resembling good Italian wine. Weisskirchen, Bannat, Hungary, Similar to Burgundy or Bordeaux. Wersitz, do. do. do. do. Wiesel, Lr. Styria, Austria, Good country wine. Wildenstein, Erhach, Germany, Inferior Rhine wine. Wiiidesch, Lr. Styria, Austria, Tolerable wine. Wipach, Carinthia, do. Resembling good Italian wine. Wolxheim, Basl^hin, France, White. Xeres, Xeres, Spain, Sherry. Zadany, County of Zemplin, Hungary, Tokay wine. Zalonge, Andalusia, Spain, Vino de pais, white. Zainbor, County of Zemplin, Hungary, Tokay wine. Zeil, Bavaria, Inferior wine. Zeltingen, Treves district, Ger- many, Moselle of first quality, Zips, Bannat, Hungary, Good red wine. Zomheimer, Rhine, Germany, Good wine. Zschelhae, Buda, Hungary, Similar to Burgundy or Bordeaux. Zymlensk, Astracan, Russia, Good wine. The preceding list comprehends eleven hundred ftnd one classified wines, of which five hundred and eighty-one, being upwards of one half of the whole, p,re produced in France alone, FOEEIG]:^ SPIRITS. FOREIGN SPIRITS. DISTILLATION — BRANDY — EUM — ^HOLLAND GIN — WHISKK Y - - A 11 RACK — ADULTERATION — USES AND EFFECTS OF ALCOHOI.rC LIQUORS. Distillation. The distillation of spirits was known to the Ara- bians about the tenth century, to whom we are in- debted for its invention ; and was introduced into Eu- rope during the reign of Henry 11. of England ; it means, in commercial language, the manufacture of intoxicating spirits. This art of evoking the fiery demon of drunkenness, from his attempered state in wine and beer, was unknown to the an- cient Greeks and Eomans. It seems to have been used by the barbarians of the North of Europe, as a solace to their cold and humid clime ; and was first made known to the southern nations, in the writings of Arnoldus de Villa Nova, and his pupil, Eaymond Lully of Majorca, who declares this ad- mirable essence of wine to be an emanation of the Divinity, an element newly revealed to man, but hid from antiquity, because the human race was then too young to need this beverage, destined to 802 FOREIGN SPIRITS. revive the energies of modern decrepitude^ He further imagined, that the discovery of this aqua vitce, as it was called, indicated the approaching consummation of all things — the end of this world. However much he erred as to the value of this remarkable essence, he truly predicted its vast influ* ence upon humanity, since to both civilized and savage nations, it has realized greater ills than were threatened in the fabled box of Pandora. The flavor and taste peculiar to all spirits is derived from the essential oils carried over in distil- lation ; and each variety has an aroma characteristic of the fermented substance from which it is pre cured ; whether it be the grape, cherries, sugar-cane, rice, cocoa-nut, corn, or potatoes ; and it may be distinguished even as procured from different growths of the vine. The superiority of all spirits made from grapeSj consists in its containing less essential oil, and that of a more agreeable flavor than corn spirits. The color of spirits is no criterion of excellence j pure spirits of any kind have no color : that of com- merce has always derived it from artificial additions) as burnt sugar, or from some other matter contained in the timber of the cask. Brandyi Brandy is obtained by the distillation of wine ; the wine-brandy of France is esteemed the best in Europe, the most celebrated of which is the Cognac ; FOBEIGJT SPIBITS. 303 it does not appear toi have existed in France till the year 1313. When first introduced, Brandy or burnt wine {vinum adustum) appears to have been used prin- cipally as an antiseptic and; restorative medicine; and tKe most extraordinary panegyrics were bestow? ed on its virtues. It was described as a sovereign remedy in almost all the disorders of the human frame; it was commended for its efficacy in comfort' ing the memory, and strengthening the reasoning powers; it was extolled, in short, as the elixir of life, an infallible preservative of youth and beauty ! Doctor Henderson remarks that the experience of later times, has shown how little this eulogy was merited ; but in this he is contradicted .by Burke, who maintains, with equal eloquence and ingenuity, that " the alembic" has been a vast blessing. The excellence and flavor of Brandy depend upon the quality and. character of the wine from, which it is made, and the management during dis- tillation ; it contains a considerable qua;itity of an essential oil from the wine, which imparts to it an agreeable aroma, not to be met with in any other species of spirits. So strongly marked is the spirit with the taste of the wine from which it is distilled, that persons of experience can always easily tell from what wine district it comes, and from what species of grape. The Brandy distilled from the grape, it is needless to say, after this, is easily discriminated from that produced by any other substance. "Wines of all descriptions, but chiefly those that 304 FOREIGN SPIRITS. are strong and harsh (pouss^s), are used in the manufacture of Brandy. The superior vintages, and those that have most flavor, are said to make the worst Brandy. It is naturally clear and colorless. The different shades of color which it has in com- merce, arise partly from the casks in which it is kept, but chiefly from the burnt sugar and other coloring matter added to it. It is said the burnt sugar gives mellowness to the flavor, and renders it more palatable. The French Brandy is principally distilled at Cognac, Bordeaux, Eochelle, Orleans, the Isle de Ehe, Angouleme, Nantes, and in Poitou, Touraine, and Anjou. That of Cognac, as has been before observed, is the best, and in the highest estimation. The utility of Brandy is very considerable, but from its pleasant taste and exhilarating property, it is too often taken to excess. From other ardent spirits in ordinary use, it is distinguished for its cordial and stomachic properties ; it is therefore often resorted to as a powerful tonic ; its utility with camphor is very great, and in the sinking stages of typhus, diarrhoea, spasmodic pains, weakness of the animal functions, extreme suffering and exhaustion, from excessive exertion and privation of food, the cautious and moderate use of this spirit has on many occasions proved invaluable. FOREIGN SPIRITS, 305- Bum. It was during tlie sixteenth century this spirit was first introduced into consumption ; r according to Oviedo Valdas the cultivajtion of sugar-canes was commenced in Hispaniola or St. Domingo, by the Spaniards in 1520. The word Eum appears to have been formerly used in England to convey the idea of any thing fine, rich, good, or excellent, and as spirits extracted from molasses were at that period very highly es- teemed, it was called Bum to denote its excellence or superior quality; the term also may have origi- nated from the last syllable of the Latin word sacciharum (sugar), and it is somewhat singular that this spirit.has been silways known among the native Americans by the name of -Eum. It is obtained, by means of fermentation and dis- tillation, from molasses, the refuse of the cane juice, and portions of the cane after the sugar has been exhausted— the flavor and taste peculiar to it are derived from the essential oil carried over in distil- lation. When the distillation has been carelessly perfijrmed, the spirit contains so large a quantity of the grosser and less volatile parts of the oil, as to be, unfit for use till it has attained a great age ; when it is well rectified it mellows much sooner. St. Croix Eum, if originally good, becomes a very superior spirit by age and proper keeping; it is perfectly pale and limpid. Jamaica rum is of a 20 306 FOREIGN SPIRITS. brownish transparent color, smooth oily taste, strong body and consistence, and when good and well kept is reckoned the best. The general effects and uses of Eum are similar to those of Brandy ; but Eum is considered more heating, sodorifio, less astringent, and more disposed to cause perspiration, than the other kinds of ardent spirits, to which it has been popularly thought pre- ferable in slight colds, long-standing coughs, and rheumatism. Holland Gin, or Geneva. Geneva is a- corruption of genievre, the French term for the Juniper berry ; it is also supposed that it owes its name to the Juniper wine invented or brought to perfection by Count de Morret, son of Henry IV. of France, to the use of which he attributed his good health and long life. This wine was considered so wholesome, and made with so little expense, that it was called the " wine of the poor." Holland Gin is obtained by distillation from wheat or rye flavored with Juniper berries, which are said to render it diuretic. It becomes milder, and acquires, as it gets old, an oily flavor disliked by the Hollanders, for which reason nearly the whole of the Schiedam is exported. There are upwards of three hundred distilleries in the village of Schiedam, where the Geneva is FOEEIGN SPIEITS. 307 manufactured, upwards of one hundred in other parts of Holland, and about fifty in Belgium. The entire annual produce of the distilleries in Hol- land is estimated at thirty millions of gallons, of which about two-thirds are exported. Gin is diuretic in its effects, but not so strong and heating as Brandy or Eum. Whiskey, The Latin term, aqua vitce, the Irish, usquebaugh, and the modem, whiskey, are synonymous; the latter name is given to the spirituous liquors manufactured by the distillers of Ireland and Scotland ; it corre- sponds to the Bau de Yie of the French, and the Branntwein of the Grermans. It is distilled from new grain and pure malt, and agrees in most of its properties with Holland Geneva, from which it differs in its peculiar smoky flavor and odor : these it acquires from the malt which is dried by turf fires. But the smell of burned turf, called peat reek in Scotland, which was originally prized as a crite- rion of whiskey made from pure malt, moderately fermented and distilled with peculiar care, has of late years lost its value, since the artifice of impreg- nating bad raw grain whiskey with peat smoke has been extensively practised. The peculiar flavor of whiskey is owing to a volatile oil which exists in the corn or malt from which the spirits have been made; that obtained 308 FOEEIGN SPIRITS. from pure malt is the best, and free from the rank odor, or haut-gout, existing in the inferior qualities distilled from raw corn. Whiskey is considered diuretic, narcotic, and less heating than any other spirits. Arrack. Arrack is produced from the areca nut, or the arrack tree ; the ■word is of Indian origin, and the term is applied in most parts of India and the Indian islands to designate any sort of spirituous liquor. Arrack is distinguished from other ardent spirits by its stimulating and narcotic properties ; its flavor is peculiar, and it differs considerably in consequence of the various articles of which it is prepared, and the unequal care taken in its manufacture. Batavia or Java arrack is considered the best ; it is obtained by distillation from rice and molasses, with only a small mixture of cocoa-nut toddy. Columbo or Ceylon arrack is invariably made from the vegetable juice toddy, which flows by in- cision from the cocoa-nut tree; after the juice is fermented it is distilled and rectified ; some are of opinion that it is equal to the Batavia. When well prepared, arrack is white and trans- parent; sometimes, however, it is slightly straw- colored. Pine-apples steeped in it impart a most exquiste flavor to the spirit ; and by age it becomes a delicious liqueur, which is unrivalled in the world for making nectarial punch. FOEEIGN SPIRITS. 309 Adulteration. The observations already made on the adultera- tion of wines, would appear to render it needless to write any thing further on ■• he same subject in re- ference to foreign spirits ; but it may be necessary for the reader to know that the adulteration of the latter, opens a much wider field for fraud than the former, presents a greater temptation to the trader, is attended with much less liability of detection, and is practised upon a more extensive scale. Owing to the high rate of duties, the adulterations are usually ^ected in the countries of importation ; difficulty of discovery (except by first-rate judges), and the large profits realized, are the causes assigned for its pre- valence. Uses and Effects of Spirits. BY PROFESSOR BEANDE. Medicinally considered, ardent spirits are valuable but often mischievous stimulants ; they are always employed more or less diluted, as in the form of proof spirit, brandy, rum, and similar spirituous liquors. They are used externally as a stimulant, and occa- sionally as a refrigerant, in consequence of the cold which is produced by their evaporation. As remedial agents, spirituous liquors quicken and fill the pulse, elevate the sensible and thermometri- cal heat of the body, and stimulate the brain and 310 FOREIGN SPIRITS. nervous system. When taken in excess they ine- briate and poison ; produce determination of blood to the head, wandering of the mind, great general excitement, succeeded by drowsiness and more or less insensibility; afterwards headache, dyspepsia, and sickness, and in many cases insanity; some- times fatal apoplexy, or coma, will supervene, or death ensue from some more accidental cause, such as a fall or suffocation during vomiting. There are also cases on record in which large quantities of spirituous liquors have been taken at one draught and undiluted, as for a wager, or some similar folly ; in such cases profound coma soon comes on, with stertorous breathing, and death often ensues almost immediately or in a few hours. Among the lower orders, the great temptation to drink is temporary excitement ; the higher and edu- cated classes of society too often find an oblivious antidote in the same dangerous delusion ; the result is as surely fatal in the one case as the other ; and as the habit, when once established, can scarcely admit of palliation or remedy, it becomes the duty of the moral and medical philosopher to turn all his powers of advice and persuasion towards prevention, and to paint in strong colors the utter hopelessness of a cure. In answer to these trite remarks, there are some who, admitting the evils of habitual drunkenness, ad- vocate diurnal excess, in telling of statesmen, philoso- phers, and poets, who, in the enjoyment of health of mind and body, have attained to a respectable old age, and yet have been what are called " two bottle FOBEIGN SPIRITS. 311 men:" but sucli cases are rare exceptions to the rule, and, when carefully inquired into, are almost all fallacies. It is true that some herculean constitu- tions -will resist all ordinary causes of wear and tear ; but in general, persons in advanced life who indulge, with apparent impunity, in such excess, have passed through its earlier periods abstemiously and actively, and have only gradually habituated themselves to a more luxurious diet, as the advances of age have crept upon them in the enjoyment of worldly prosperity and mental quiet ; habits of inebriety are, in fact, rarely acquired late in life, and never, by persons who are fit for any thing else. Old debauchees, when other sources of bodily gratification fail, will occasionally take to the bottle, and so demolish a constitution which had resisted the other inroads of disease. In these days it is fortunately almost unnecessary to caution the young among the educated classes of society, against the fatal consequences of inebriety; the drunkenness and profaneness of the olden time are now happily out of fashion, and though other and equally mischievous vices may possibly prevail, they are not such as find a place under the subject now before us. LiaUEUES, LIQUEURS. INTEODirOTION AND INVENTION — ABSTNTHE — ALKEEMES — ANI- SETTE — OTJEAOOA — KIESCHENWASSER — MAEASCHINO DE ZARA — NOTEATJ — EATAFIA. The introduction of Liqueurs into France, according to Beekman, took place in the year 1533, on the occasion of the marriage of Henry II. when Duke of Orleans, with Catharine de Medicis. The mode of making them was derived from the Italians, to whom the invention is attributed; they were termed by them liquori; and vended through for- eign countries under that appellation. Their pala- table qualities insured them a ready admission to the tables of the aiHuent, while their apparent mild and medicinal properties afforded a temptation to the invalid and delicate, whose constitutional debil- ity required a succession of artificial stimulants. Louis XIV. became so addicted to them in his old age, that he could scarcely endure existence without them. Liqueurs have different titles according to their mode of fabrication; they are made of spirits of 316 LIQUEURS, various kinds, sweetened, and otherwise flavored, and are imported from different wine countries. Ahsynthe Is a spirituous liquor that takes its title from the herb called Absinthum. It is considered anti-spas- modic and some extol it as a vermifuge ; but it merits little attention in either of these characters. Alkermes Is made at the Convent of Santa Maria Novella, Florence. It is an exquisite liquor, possessing a delicious flavor and fragrance, and being mild, in- noxious and stomachic, it yields to none in pre- eminence. The really genuine can only be obtained from one house. Anisette Is extracted from the seed of the Anisum ; it is a liqueur in much esteem abroad, though to most persons its flavor is not agreeable ; it is a good car- minative and anti-flatulent. Oura^oa Is made by digesting bitter orange peel (or orange berries) cloves and cinnamon, in old brandy. LIQUEUBS. 817 to whicli sugar dissolved in water is subsequently added. Kirschenwasser. Kirschwasser or Earschenwasser (literally cherry- water), is an alcoholic liquor obtained by fermenting and distilling bruised cherries called Jdrschm, in German. The cherry tisually employed in Switzer- land and Germany, is a kind of morello, which on maturation becomes black, and has a kernel very large in proportion to its pulp. When ripe (the fruit being made to fall by switching the trees), it is gathered by children, thrown promiscuously, unripe, ripe, and rotten, into tubs, and crushed either by hand or a wooden beater. The mashed materials are set to ferment, and whenever this process is com- plete, the whole is transferred to an old still covered with verdigris, and the spirit is run off in the rudest manner possible, by placing the pot over the com- mon fireplace. The fermented mash is usually mouldy before it is put into the alembic, the capital of which is luted on with a mixture of mud and dung. The liquor has accordingly for the most part a rank smell, and its use dangerous to health, not only from its own crude, essential state, but from the prus- sic acid, derived from the distillation of the cherry stones. There is a superior kind of Kirschenwasser made in the Black Forest, prepared with fewer ker- 818 LIQUEURS. nels, from choice fruit, properly pressed, fermented and distilled. Maraschino de Zara Is made in Dalmatia, from a peculiar variety of cherry called Marasquin. Noyeau Owes its constituent properties to spirit, syrup, and the flavoring principles of vegetables, derived from bitter almonds, peach, or apricot kernels. Batafia Is the generic name in France of liqueurs com- pounded with alcohol, sugar, and the odoriferous and flavoring principles of vegetables. This term is derived from the verb ratifier, to confirm, it being used at the settlement of an agreement or bargain. Bruised cherries, with their stones, are infused in spirits of wine, to make the Ratafia of Grenoble de Teyss^re. The liquor being boiled and filtered, is flavored, when cold, with spirits of noyeau, made by distilling water off the bruised bitter kernels of apricots and mixing it with alcohol. LIQUEURS. 319 The varieties of Liqueurs are numerous ; it is customary to take them after coffee, but the constant use, even of the best qualities, produces most dele- terious effects on the constitution, they should there fore be drunk but seldom, and in very small por- tions ; apart from the alcohol, which they more or less contain, the flavoring and coloring matter is often pernicious. LIST OF ALL THE KNOWN ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS, AND THE COUNTRIES IN WHICH PRODUCED. Nsme. Conntry. DeBCription. Airen, Tartary, Cow's milk made into a drink like koumiss. Aipy, Brazil, Prepared from the aipi- makakara, a species of manioc. Ale, Various countries. Fermented from malt and hops. Araki, Egypt, Distilled from dates. Arraki, Hill Tartars, Prepared from sloes and numerous wild terries. Ava, Otaheite, A root which is bruised, or baked before infu- sion: the liquor very intoxicating. Awamuri, Japanese Islands, Made from corn, and dif- ferent fruits fermented. Brandy, France, Grapes, potatoes, com, cider, perry, plums, cherries, and residue of the brew-houses. Do. Spain, Generally from the grape, and of tolerable quali- ty. Grapes, damaged figs, Do. Portugal, and raisins. Do. Sweden, Corn, and the black ant ; a powerful spirit. Do. Russia, Corn. 21 822 ALCOHOLIC LIQ0OES. Nnme. Country. Description. Brandy, Persia, Shiraz grape ; and of good quality. Do. England, A pure spirit distilled from corn, reduced, rectified, flavored, and otherwise drugged. Badek, Java, Rice boiled, and stewed with razi or onions, black pepper, and cap- sicum, made into cakes and sold as a ferment. Beer, Various countries. Fermented from malt and hops. Birch-wine, Norway, Made of the juice of the birch tree, boiled, and fermented. Bouza, Nubia, Beer prepared from bar- ley, previously roasted. Boza, Constantinople, do. do. Brandewyn. Cape Good Hope, A bad brandy, distilled from the husks and stalks of the grapes, and wine lees. Brom, Java, Same as Badek, but dif- ferently prepared. Brum, Sumatra, do. superior. Braga, Russia, From oatmeal, and hops ; a white liquor. Busa, Tartary, A beer brewed from ground miUet. CaUu, Carnatic Hindu, Te- ling and Zamul, Wine of the wild date. Canni, Egypt, A species of beer. Cha, China, Palm wine. Chica, Mexico, Beer made from maize, by the Indians. Geneva, Holland, From corn, flavored with juniper in rectification. Gin, England, A pure spirit, distilled from corn, reduced, rectified, and flavored with juniper berries ; is frequently adulter- ated with turpentine. ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS. 323 Name. Country. Deecripiion. Goldwasser, Dantzic, Distilled from com and other substances ; sometimes called ewu, de vie de Dantzic; named from having gold leaf floating in it. Grape, Brazil, Black sugar, water, and the leaves of the akaja tree, to make it intoxi- cating. Prepared from Indian wheat. Guallo, Congo, Kara, Friendly Isles, A species of pepper plant chewed by the women, and their saliva collect- ed and diluted with water. Kaviaraku. Brazil, Prepared from the aipi- makakara, not ferment- ed. Ki-ji, Tan-po, Sl- Java, Three different degrees of chew, strength of distilled rice, or of arrack. Kisslysohtxhy. Russia, Rye meal, and water, fer- mented. Kokemar, Persia, Poppy seeds in decoction, drank hot. Kooi, Brazil, Prepared from the akajee apple. Koumiss, Tartary, Mares' milk fermented. Lamb wine, China, Lamb's flesh,mashed with milk, or^with rice, and fermented. Lau, Siam and the Bir- Genei-ally prepared from mans, rice. Lotus wine, Tripoli, Made from the Rhamnus Lotus, or tree of the food of the ancient Lo- tophagi. 324 ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS. Name. Conntiy. DescriptioD. Mandrin, China, A superior rice wine. The lees distilled, yield a brandy, show-choo, or sam^su. Mahayah, Morocco, Distilled from figs. Mahwah Arrack, India, Made of Madhuca flowers (bassia bntryacea). Maraschino, Zara, Distilled from the cherry. Mead, Russia, Honey, beer lees, and ka- latch, fermented. Mead, Ethiopia, Honey, barley, and a root called taddo. Milaffo, Congo, Prepared from the palm tree. Muchumor, Kamtschatka, Made from a red mush- room of the country. Mum, Brunswick, Fermented wheaten malt, and oatmeal, with fir rind, lops of fir, and beech, and a variety of herbs. Masato, Mexico, A drink from the roots of the manioc or yucca. Palm wine. Nubia, Prepared as in other places, from the tree of that name. Paniz, Corea, From a grain, supposed to be a coarse kind of rice. Peach Brandy, United States, A strong spirit, from peaches. Pitto, Dahomey, Prepared from the grain on the coast. Phanr, N^epaul, Distilled from wheat or rice. Piworree orOujjcon, Guyana, Prepared from the cassa- va ; resembling beer. Cakes of cassava made about three-fourths of an inch thick, are baked until they are brown throughout. Women then moisten their mouths with a little ALCOHOLIC LIQUOES. 325 Name. Country. DeBcriptloD. water, and chew this bread, until it is per- fectly saturated with saliva. They then strain it in their mouths, and spit out the saliva into a vessel. When a suf- ficient quantity of this extract is made, they add water to the extent of 200 gallons or more. leave it to ferment un- til sour, and then drink it. Fermented from millet, Pombie, The Caffres, or guinea corn. Porter and Stout, Various countries. Fermented from malt and hops. Pulque, Mexico, The juice of the agave, fermented ; a strong spirit is also made from it, called Aguardiente de Magney. Quass, Russia, Barley-malt, rye-malt, oatmeal, fermented, and made acidulous. Raka, Kamschatka, Distilled from a sweet grass, called Slatkaia- trava, with certain ber- ries to flavor. Rakia, Dalmatia, Grape, murk, and aro- matic herbs, distilled. Rosolio, Santzic, Brandy, sagar, cinnariion, and cloves, distilled. Rum, West Indies, From molasses and sugar- cane. Rum, India, From jagory, a kind of molasses from the su- gar-cane. Sindag, Camatic Hindu, Wine of the wild date. 15 326 ALCOHOLIC LIQUOES. Name. Country. Description. Sacki, Japan, A beer from fermented rice. Sagwire, Celebes, A strong species of palm wine. Schara, The Calmucks, A beer resembling Bragu, but different in color. Sherbet, Turkey, Sugar, lemon juice, apri- cots, or plums, and fla- vored with some sweet flower. Sihee, Nepaul, Prepared from the grapes in two modes. Sihee. Afghanistan, A drink from sheep's milk fermented. Snaps, Denmark, A brandy distilled from rye, and barley. Soury or Taury, Nicobar Islands, Fermented palm juice. Tar-a-suD, China, A beer from barley or wheat. Tafia, West Indies, A poor kind of rum. Tari, India, Palm wine, when distilled afibrds arrack; hence the English word tod- dy- Fermented palm juice. Taura, Nicobar Islands, Toddy, Ceylon, Distilled from the cocoa tree. Troster, Germany, Distilled from murk, fer- mented with ground rye, or barley. Tuba, Manilla Isles, From a species of palm. Usuph or Usapb, Barbary, Raisins and water pre- pared. Vintro de Batatas, Brazil, Prepared from the bata- ta root. ■Whiskey, Great Britain and Distilled from com and other countries, malt ; a pure spirit. ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS. 827 Namo. Country, Deacription, T-wer'a, Zythum, Sandwich Islands, Syria, A spirit from the tea root ; lilie whiskey but less strong. Beer fermented from the grain of the country.