DURHAM 
 
 THE CATHE 
 
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 EDRAL' SERIES 
 
 AND ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
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Cornell University Library 
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 The cathedral church of Durham; a descrip 
 
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BELL'S CATHEDRAL SERIES: 
 EDITED BY GLEESON WHITE 
 AND EDWARD F. STRANGE 
 
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THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF 
 
 DURHAM , 
 
 A DESCRIPTION OF ITS FABRIC 
 
 AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE 
 
 EPISCOPAL SEE 
 
 J. E. BYGATE, A.R.C.A. 
 
 WITH FORTY-FOUR 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 I'l; 
 
 \i\^ 
 
 LONDON GEORGE BEUn(§fiSGNlS^ 1900 
 
A-lb^^S" 
 
 FirH. published, March i8gg 
 ■ Secodd Edition^- Revised^ September' \<yoo 
 
 W. H. WHITE AND CO. I-tD'. 
 
 \iu\'-^f\S\l)-E. PRESS, EDINBURGH 
 
GENERAL PREFACE 
 
 This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors 
 to the great English Cathedrals with accurate and well illus- 
 trated guide-books at a popular price. The aim of each writer 
 has been to produce a work compiled with sufficient knowledge 
 and scholarship to be of value to the student of Archaeology 
 and History, and yet not too technical in language for the use 
 of an ordinary visitor or tourist. 
 
 To specify all the authorities which have been made use of 
 in each case would be difficult and tedious in this place. But 
 amongst the general sources of information which have been 
 almost invariably found useful are: — (i) the great county 
 histories, the value of which, especially in questions of gene- 
 alogy and local records, is generally recognised; (2) the 
 numerous papers by experts which appear from time to 
 time in the Transactions of the Antiquarian and Archaeological 
 Societies; (3) the important documents made accessible in 
 the series issued by the Master of the Rolls; (4) the well- 
 known works of Britton and Willis on the English Cathedrals ; 
 and (5) the very excellent series of Handbooks to the 
 Cathedrals originated by the late Mr John Murray ; to which 
 the reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, 
 especially in reference to the histories of the respective sees. 
 
 Gleeson White, 
 Edward F. Strange, 
 
 Editors of the Series. 
 
AUTHOR'S PREFACE 
 
 As much as possible of this 'brief description of Durham 
 is from the personal acquaintance of the writer with the 
 building. Yet inany authorities have, of necessity, been con- 
 sulted in its preparation, notably a pamphlet by the Rev. 
 Canon W. Greenwell, and the "County of Durham," by 
 J. R. Boyle, F.S.A. Thanks are also due to the authorities 
 of the Cathedral for having freely given permission to make 
 drawings and measurements, and to the late Mr Weatherall, 
 chief verger, for his kindly assistance and information. 
 
 The illustrations are chiefly from sketches and drawings by 
 the writer, and from photographs reproduced by the kindness 
 of the Photochrom Company, Ltd., and Messrs S. B. Bolas 
 & Co. 
 
 J. E. B. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Chapter I.— The Building of the Church 
 Chapier II. — Description of the Exterior 
 
 The Towers . . . . 
 
 The East Front 
 
 The West Front . 
 
 The North Door . 
 
 The South Door 
 
 The West Door . 
 
 The Cloister 
 
 The Chapter-House 
 
 The Dun Cow 
 Chapter III. — Description of the Interior 
 
 The Nave 
 
 The Choir . 
 
 The Neville Screen 
 
 The Transepts 
 
 The Tower . 
 
 The East End .... 
 
 The Chapel of the Nine Altars 
 
 The Tomb of S. Cuthbert . 
 
 The Galilee or Lady Chapel . 
 
 Monuments in the Nave and Transepts 
 
 The Font 
 
 Chapter IV. — History of the See 
 Chapter V. — The Castle and University 
 Chapter VI.— The City . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 3 
 
 21 
 21 
 22 
 2S 
 25 
 26 
 
 28 
 29 
 
 32 
 
 35 
 39 
 39 
 40 
 
 43 
 SO 
 S3 
 54 
 61 
 69 
 72 
 
 79 
 81 
 
 ^2 
 102 
 III 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Durham Cathedral, from the Soulh-'West 
 
 Arms of the See ..... 
 
 The Exterior, from the College 
 
 The Dun Cow ..... 
 
 The West End (from an Old Print) 
 
 The Exterior, from Palace Green . 
 
 The Central Tower .... 
 
 Detail of Ironwork 
 
 The Sanctuary Knocker 
 
 Ironwork on the Door of Cloisters 
 
 Ornament on South Doorway 
 
 The Cloister .... 
 
 S. Cuthbert's Chest 
 
 The Chapter-House 
 
 The Exterior, from the South-East 
 
 The Nave, looking West 
 
 One Bay of the Nave (Measured Drawing) 
 
 Triforium and Clerestory 
 
 The Choir, looking West 
 
 The Transepts, looking North 
 
 Corbels in Choir .... 
 
 The Choir, looking East 
 
 Triforium of Nave and Choir 
 
 Plan of Norman East End . 
 
 Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings . 
 
 Capitals in the Nine Altars Chapel 
 
 The Nine Altars Chapel 
 
 Capital in Galilee Chapel 
 
 The Galilee Chapel 
 
 Paintings in the Galilee Chapel 
 
 Detail of the Galilee Chapel 
 
 The Font and Cover . 
 
 The Crypt 
 
 Stone Coffin Lid .... 
 
 The Chapter Library . 
 
 The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Caslle 
 
 Staircase in the Castle . 
 
 The Cathedral and Castle, from the North 
 
 PiAN AND Dimensions 
 
 Frontispiece 
 Title Page 
 
 9 
 
 ' 17 
 
 20 
 
 23 
 26 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 32 
 33 
 35 
 38 
 41 
 45 
 47 
 51 
 54.58 
 55 
 59 
 61 
 61 
 62 
 
 63 
 66 
 67, 72 
 73 
 75 
 80 
 
 85 
 88 
 
 99 
 103 
 107 
 113 
 118 
 
DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH 
 
 The traveller northward by the East Coast Route cannot fail 
 to be struck by the beauty of the city of Durham, with its 
 red-roofed houses nestling beneath the majestic site of the 
 cathedral and castle. For splendid position the Cathedral 
 of Durham stands unfequalled in this country; on the Con- 
 tinent, perhaps that of Albi can alone be compared with it 
 in this respect.. The cathedral and Norman Castle are upon 
 the summit of a lofty tongue of land which is almost sur- 
 rounded by the River Wear. In parts the banks are rocky 
 and steep, in others thickly wooded. The river itself is 
 spanned here and there by fine and historic bridges. 
 
 The early history of Durham is obscure. There are many 
 vague legends in existence, a natural consequence, perhaps, 
 when we remember the various and often speedy changes of 
 ownership to which that part of the country was for centuries 
 subjected. 
 
 To lead up clearly to the founding of the Cathedral of 
 Durham, it will be necessary to describe briefly the earliest 
 introduction of Christianity into the north of England. That 
 Christianity was known in this country during the time of 
 the Romans there is sufficient evidence to prove. There is, 
 however, little to show that it existed in the north to any 
 appreciable extent. All or nearly all the carved stones, altars, 
 etc., disinterred in that part of the country have been of 
 undoubted Pagan origin. 
 
 The ancient kingdom of Northumbria comprised the 
 present counties of Durham, Northumberland, and Yorkshire, 
 and a part of the south-east of Scotland as far north as the 
 
4 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 Firth of Forth. This kingdom was sub-divided into two 
 portions. The Southern, or Deira, extended from the Tees 
 to the Humber, and the Northern, or Bernicia, reached from 
 the Tees to the Firth of Forth. The province of Bernicia 
 was settled about a.d. 547 by Ida, a chief of the Angles, who 
 made his headquarters on a steep rock on the sea-coast about 
 sixteen miles south of Berwick. He was succeeded by his son 
 Ethelric, who built himself a stronghold, which he nnried after 
 his wife Bebbanburgh, a name still retained in a shortened 
 form— Bamburgh. Ethelric was followed by Ella, whose son 
 Edwin was driven into exile by his fierce brother-in-law, 
 Ethelfrith, and took possession of Deira, the southern prov- 
 ince of Northumbria. After attaining his majority, Edwin, 
 assisted by Redwald, regained his kingdom, and eventually 
 ruled over the whole of Northumbria ; it is during his reign 
 that we find the first authentic history of Christianity in the 
 north. Edwin married Ethelburga, a daughter of Ethelbert, 
 king of Kent, who had been converted to Christianity by 
 the preaching of S. Augustine. He himself received baptism 
 at the hands of Paulinus (625-633), the great Roman 
 missionary, who was sent north with the Princess Ethelburga. 
 Paulinus fixed his headquarters at York, where he built his 
 church, the forerunner of the present cathedral. This 
 attempt of the Romans to christianise Northumbria was, 
 however, of short duration. Cadwalla and Penda rose 
 against them, and Edwin fell in battle at Hatfield Moor in 
 Yorkshire. Paulinus, despairing of the cause, returned to 
 Kent with the queen-widow Ethelburga and her children; 
 and under Cadwalla and Penda, the kingdom soon relapsed 
 into Paganism. 
 
 We must now direct our attention to a small, barren island 
 on the west coast of Scotland, lona. Here came a voluntary 
 exile (a.d. 563), Columba, a monk, said to have been a 
 descendant of the Irish kings. Here he lived and founded 
 a great missionary monastery, which afterwards became the 
 centre of Christian influence in Scotland and the north of 
 England. He and his followers were active workers; they 
 wrote Gospels and devotional books, preached, and built 
 churches of wood. Columba died (a.d. 597), but his work 
 was continued. ^ 
 
 In 634, Oswald, a son of Ethelfrith, became kin^' of 
 
THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH 5 
 
 Northumbria. In his youth he, with his brothers, had been 
 obUged to flee to Scotland, where, during his exile, Oswald 
 was converted to Christianity by the teachers of lona. On 
 his return he defeated and killed Cadwalla at Hevenfeld, 
 or Heavenfield, near Hexham, in 634, and became the means 
 of finally introducing Christianity into his kingdom. Soon 
 after he became king, Oswald sent to lona for help, and in 
 reply came a monk, who, for some reason, said by old writers 
 to be his harshness, failed in his mission. He was replaced 
 by another monk named Aidan (635-651), who was eminently 
 successful. Beda speaks of 'him' as "a man of great piety 
 and zeal, combined with tender charity and gentleness." 
 Aidan became intimately associated with King Oswald, the 
 two working together, and he chose for his headquarters the 
 small sandy island of Lindisfarne, off the Northumbrian coast, 
 which we now know as "Holy Island." 
 
 Lindisfarne thus resembled lona, and it is probable that 
 the similarity of position and surroundings influenced Aidan 
 in- his choice. However that may be, Aidan there founded 
 his monastery and directed the work of his monks. 
 
 Passing over a short period, we find at Lindisfarne a 
 monk who is so intiinately connected with this cathedral that 
 he demands special attention — the great S. Ciithbert, sixth 
 bishop of Lindisfarne, and the patron saint of Durham. Little 
 is known of his birth and parentage. Some writers give him 
 a Scotch origin, others Irish,* and others again say he was 
 born of humble parents on the banks of the Tweed. The 
 latter is most probable. Certain it is that at an early age 
 he was left an orphan, and was employed as an under-shepherd 
 near to Melrose. From his earliest youth he was thoughtful 
 and pious, and watched and imitated in his mode of life 
 the monks of Melrose. There are numerous legends and 
 stories of S. Cuthbert's youth. He is said to have wrought 
 many miracles, even to the extent of stilling a tempest. One 
 of these may be told here on account of the share it played 
 in his choice of monastic life : — On a certain night in a.d. 651, 
 whiJe tending his sheep, his companions being asleep, Cuthbert 
 
 * Sanderson, in his edition of " Rites of Durham," 1767, says : "He 
 is said to be descended from the Blood Royal of the Kings of Ireland.being 
 son of one Muriardach and Sabina his wife, -a King's daughter, he was 
 educated in the Abbey of Mailrose. " 
 
6 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 saw in the heavens a brilliant shaft of light, and angels 
 descending. These very shortly re-ascended, bearing among 
 them "a spirit of surpassing brightness." In the morning it 
 was found that the good S. Aidan was dead. The vision 
 had a marked and lasting effect on Cuthbert, and eventually 
 resulted in his entering the monastery at Melrose. For ten 
 years Cuthbert led a holy and studious life at Melrose, under 
 Prior Boisil, when he was chosen among others to proceed 
 to the newly - founded monastery at Ripon. His sojourn 
 there was, however, short, as owing to doctrinal differences 
 concerning the celebration of- Easter, he and the other 
 Scottish monks returned to Melrose. Some four years later, 
 on the death of Boisil, Cuthbert was elected his successor, 
 as prior of Melrose. In a.d. 664, we find him holding the 
 same office at Lindisfarne, where he remained for twelve 
 years. He then retired from his position, in order to attain 
 a higher degree of Christian perfection by living a solitary 
 life, first on a small island near Lindisfarne, and afterwards 
 on the island of Fame, near Bamburgh. There are many 
 stories told of his great piety at this time, so that even the 
 wild sea-birds are said to have obeyed him. 
 
 In the year a.d. 685 Cuthbert was, though against his own 
 wishes, consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne. His great activity ■ 
 and usefulness in this office was soon cut short, for in less 
 than two years, on the 20th of March a.d. 687, he died. 
 Obediently to his own request, his body was wrapped in a 
 linen cloth, which had been given him by the Abbess Yerca; 
 and, placed in a stone coffin, the gift of the Abbot Cudda, was 
 interred in the church at Lindisfarne. He was not to rest, 
 however. In a.d. 698 the monks disinterred his remains in 
 order to place them in a specially-prepared wooden coffin. It 
 is said they found the saint's body perfectly incorrupt. To 
 quote the quaint Hegge: 
 
 " But whiles they opened his coffin, they start at a wonder, 
 " they look't for bones and found flesh, they expected a skeleton, 
 " and saw an entire bodie, with joynts flexible, his flesh so 
 " succulent, that there only wanted heate to make his bodie .live 
 " without a soul, and his face so dissembling death, that else- 
 " where it is true that sleep is the image of death, but here 
 " death was the image of sleep. Nay, his very funerall weeds 
 " were so fresh, as if putrefaction had not dared to take him 
 
TEbE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH 7 
 
 " bythe coat."* Whatever may be the truth of this, his body 
 was placed in a wooden coffin, portions of which are still pre- 
 served in the chapter library at Durham. 
 
 Over a century and a half after these events the coast of 
 Northurribria was disturbed and troubled by the piratical 
 invasions of the Danes. The number and violence of these 
 incursions so increased that the whole country lay practically 
 at their mercy. Becoming alarmed for their own safety and 
 that of their holy relics, the monks of Lindisfarne fled, taking 
 with them the body of their saint, and all their sacred vessels 
 and books. This occurred in a.d. 875. 
 
 Here commenced that long wandering which eventually 
 ended in the founding of the Cathedral Church of Durham, 
 where the bones of S. Cuthbert found their final resting- 
 place. 
 
 Bishop Eardulph and his monks, with their sacred charge, 
 travelled for seven years, over a great portion of the north of 
 England and part of the south of Scotland. Many churches 
 dedicated to S. Cuthbert in the north are thought to marktheir 
 resting-places. From a list pf these given by Prior Wessing- 
 ton the probable route of the wanderers can be approximately 
 made out as follows : — First to Elsdon and down the Rede to 
 Haydon Bridge. Up the South Tyne to Beltinghame, and then 
 following the route of the Roman Wall to Bewcastle. Turning 
 south to Salkeld, and thence by Eden Hall and Plumbland 
 into Lancashire, towards the river Derwent. Here they came 
 to a determination to cross to Ireland, and took ship from the 
 mouth of the Derwent. Very soon a violent storm arose, the 
 vessel became unmanageable and was nearly filled with water, 
 which, according to Symeon, immediately turned into blood. 
 A return was inevitable. It was during this attempt that the 
 famous copy of the Gospels, known as the Durham Book, was 
 washed overboard into the sea. This book is, perhaps, the 
 most beautiful example of Anglo-Saxon writing and illumina- 
 tion extant, and is surpassed only by the celebrated Irish MS., 
 the Book of Kells. It was shortly afterwards found on 
 the coast in a comparatively uninjured condition; and is 
 now preserved in the British Museum. The wandering 
 monks next turned northwards as far as Witherne, on the 
 Galloway coast, and then returned to England, through 
 
 * " County of Durham," by J. R. Boyle, F.S.A. 
 
8 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 Westmoreland and across Stainmoor into Teesdale, staying for 
 a time at a village, which no doubt owes it present name 
 Cotherstone to this circumstance. Leaving here and crossing 
 the hills, through Marske, Forcett and Barton, they arrived at 
 the abbey of Craike, near Easingwold, where they were kindly 
 treated by the abbot, and remained about four months. On 
 resuming their journey the monks removed the body of 
 S. Cuthbert to Cuncachester, or, as we now know it, Chester- 
 le-Street, a former Roman camp. Here the fraternity remained 
 for a hundred and thirteen years ; and here was the seat of 
 the Bishopric of Bernicia until a.d. 995. Many are the legends 
 clustering round these journeyings. How, when leaving Lindis- 
 farne, the sea opened a passage for them, and how in more 
 than one difficulty the dead saint himself gave them assist*' 
 ance. Notably, on one occasion when the bearers were 
 ■ worn out and weary he appeared and showed them where 
 they would find a horse and car in which to carry their 
 burden. This horse and car were afterwards used on their 
 journfeys. 
 
 In the year 995, again for safety, they removed once more 
 under Bishop Aldhun, first for a short time to Ripon, and 
 then finally to Durham. It is of this last journey the follow- 
 ing story is told : — 
 
 "Coming with him " (v. Sanderson), "on the £:asf Side of 
 "Durham, to a Place call'd Warden/awe, they could not 
 " with all their Force remove his body further, for it seemed 
 " fastened to the Ground ; which strange and unforeseen 
 " Accident produced great Astonishment in the Hearts of 
 " the Bishop, the Monks, and their Associates ; whereupon 
 " they fasted and prayed three Days with great Devotion, 
 " to know by Revelation from God, what to do with the holy 
 " Body, which was soon granted to them, it being revealed 
 " to Eadnier, a virtuous Man, that he should be carried to 
 " Dunholme, where he was to be received to a Place of Rest. 
 " They were again in great Distress, in not knowing where 
 " Dunholme lay ; but as they proceeded, a Woman wanting 
 " her Cow, called aloud to her Companion, to know if she had 
 " seen her ? Who answered, She was in Dunholme. This 
 " was an happy and heavenly Sound to the distressed Monks, 
 '' who thereby had Intelligence that their Journey's End was 
 " at Hand, and the Saint's Body near its Resting-place ; 
 
S. B. Bolas &= Co., Photo.' 
 
 THE DUN COW. 
 
THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH ii 
 
 " thereupon with great Joy they arrived with his Body at 
 " Dunholme, in the Year 997." 
 
 Arrived at Dunholm they raised a " Httle Church of Wands 
 and Branches" to protect the sacred reUcs until a building 
 more worthy of such a charge could be erected. This was 
 the beginning of the Cathedral and City of Durham. 
 
 The condition of the place at this time must have been 
 very wild, and it certainly was a natural stronghold. The 
 only open spot seems to have been the plateau where the 
 cathedral now stands. The site is curiously described in a 
 Saxon poem, from which the following is a translation : — 
 
 " The City is celebrated 
 In the whole Empire of the Britons 
 The road to it is steep 
 It is surrounded with rocks 
 And with curious plants 
 The Wear flows round it 
 A river of rapid waves 
 And there live in it 
 Fishes of various kinds 
 Mingling with the floods. 
 And there grow 
 Great Forests, 
 There live in the recesses 
 Wild Animals of many sorts 
 In the deep valleys 
 Deer innumerable. " 
 
 As soon as possible a stone chapel was built, in which the 
 body of S. Cuthbert was placed. Bishop Aldhun, not satisfied 
 with this, determined to establish a great church. Work was 
 immediately commenced and progressed so rapidly that the 
 building, known as "the White Church," was consecrated in 
 A.D. 999. Of this there would seem to be no authentic 
 remains existing; although some authorities think portions 
 of it are included in the present cathedral. Bishop Aldhun 
 died in 1018. The next date of importance is the year io8i, 
 when William of Saint Carileph was appointed Bishop by the 
 Conqueror. He was a monk of the Benedictine order, and 
 at once drove out and dispossessed the secular clergy at 
 Durham, replacing them from the Benedictine Monasteries 
 which were established at Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. 
 Bishop Carileph is the man to whom we owe the present 
 Cathedral of Durham. In 1088 he was obliged to flee into 
 
12 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 exile in Normandy, where he remained three years, through 
 his having taken part in the rebellion against William II. 
 It was probably during this time of banishment that he con- 
 ceived the idea that " if he returned to Durham he would 
 build a more worthy church, such as were already erected 
 and in course of construction in Normandy. 
 
 Soon after his return in 1091 he commenced to carry out 
 his scheme ; and we learn that on the i ith of August 1093, the 
 foundation stone of the new church was laid, with great pomp. 
 
 The vvork proceeded rapidly, commencing at the east 
 end. By the time of Bishop Carileph's death, which occurred 
 in 1096, the walls of the choir, the eastern walls of the 
 transepts, the ~tow€r- arches, and a portion of the first bay of 
 the nave, were completed. It is also very probable that the 
 lower portion of the walls of the whole church are of Carileph's 
 time. 
 
 After the death of Bishop Carileph the see of Durham re- 
 mained vacant for three years. The monks, however, were 
 not idle during this period, and they continued the work 
 vigorously, completing the west walls of the transepts and the 
 vaulting of the north transept. In 1099 Ralph Flambard 
 was appointed bishop, and he held the office until 11 28. He 
 carried on the building as the funds at his disposal would 
 allow, sometimes rapidly and at others more slowly. Before 
 his death it would appear that he completed the nave as 
 high as the wall plates and altogether finished and roofed 
 the aisles. The western towers as far as the height of the 
 roof of the nave are also the work of Flambard. In 11 04 the 
 work was so far advanced as to permit the removal of the 
 body of S. Cuthbert, from the temporary shrine which Bishop 
 Carileph had erected over it, into the new church. This 
 ceremony was performed on August 29th, 11 04, and the 
 coffin was placed in a shrine behind the high altar. \ 
 
 On Flambard's death in 1128 the see was again left Vacant 
 for five years, but we are told that the monks continuJed the 
 work and completed the nave. The portion built by them 
 at this time must of necessity have been the vaulting and 
 roof, the architectural features of which are quite in accord- 
 ance with the date, being late Norman. 
 
 Flambard's successor was Galfrid Rufus, who was Bishop 
 from 1133 to 1 140. 
 
THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH 13 
 
 During his episcopate the chapter - house, which had been 
 commenced by the monks, was completed. Rufus also 
 replaced the then existing north and south doorways of the 
 nave, by those standing to-day. 
 
 The next bishop, William de St Barbara (1143 to 1152), 
 does not appear to have added anything to the cathedral. 
 During his time of office the see was usurped by William 
 Cummin, and building operations were no doubt neglected 
 through the troubles arising from the usurpation. His succes- 
 sor, Hugh Pudsey (ii53toii95) was, however, a great builder ; 
 appointed to the see at a comparatively early age, and, living 
 as he did, at a time when very great changes were taking place 
 in architectural style, he was able to carry out a great deal 
 of beautiful work. 
 
 He began to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the 
 choir, ,but although he had made careful preparations, and 
 engaged skilled architects and workmen, great cracks appeared 
 in the walls before the work had proceeded far, and the 
 building was stopped. Bishop Pudsey, taking this as a 
 divine revelation that the work was not pleasing to God, 
 and the patron S. Cuthbert, abandoned it and commenced 
 another chapel at the west end of the church, using in its 
 erection the Purbeck martle bases and columns which he had 
 had prepared foy his eastern chapel. This second attempt 
 was successful and remains to us in that beautiful and unique 
 specimen of Transitional w»rk, the Galilee Chapel. Its date 
 may be taken, says Canon Greenwell, "as about the year 
 1 1 75." Besides this work Pudsey built the hall and solar now 
 called (at the top) the " Norman Gallery " of Durham Castle. 
 
 Little or nothing further seems to have been done until the 
 translation of Bishop Poore from the see of Sarum to Durham 
 in 1229. The name of Bishop Poore is inseparably con- 
 nected with the building of the present Salisbury Cathedral, 
 and after his removal to Durham he conceived the idea of, 
 and made preparations for, commencing the eastern transept 
 of the Cathedral, which is a special feature of Durham, now 
 known as the Chapel of the Nine Altars. He was not, 
 however, destined to live to see his idea carried out. 
 
 The eastern termination of Carileph's choir had been apsidal; 
 it was found to be in a very unsafe condition, cracks and 
 fissures appearing in the walls. Various bishops and priors 
 
14 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 sent aid towards "the new work," but actual building did not 
 cornmence until after the death of Bishop Poore in 1237. The 
 erection was commenced by Prior Melsanby and, of course, 
 necessitated the taking down of Carileph's apses. The 
 revaulting of the choir was undertaken at this time, doubt- 
 less, for artistic reasons, to bring the new work into harmony 
 with the old. The Chapel of the Nine Altars is a rare and 
 valuable specimen of Early English Gothic architecture of 
 remarkable and graceful design. Below each of its nine 
 lancet windows was originally an altar, dedicated to different 
 saints. Its great height was obtained by lowering the floor, so 
 that the unity of the whole exterior should not be destroyed. 
 Prior Melsanby is also said to have put a new roof on the 
 church. 
 
 Prior Hugh de Darlington, who was at the head of affairs 
 from 1258 to 1272, and later from 1285 to 1289, added a belfry 
 to the central tower. 
 
 John Fossor, made prior of Durham in 1342, inserted the 
 large window in the north transept and the west windows of 
 the nave. 
 
 Bishop Thomas de Hatfield (1346 to 1381) seems to have 
 done no architectural work beyond the erection of his own 
 throne and tomb (in which he was afterwards buried) on the 
 south side of the choir. This is an elaborate and sumptuous 
 piece of work, and shows remains of rich colouring and gild- 
 ing. About this time, also, the beautiful altar screen known 
 as the Neville screen was erected. Its cost was principally 
 borne by Lord John Neville, though the Priors Fossor and • 
 Berrington and the subordinate cells of Jarrow and Monk- 
 wearmouth were also contributors. The screen is of stone — 
 very light and graceful, and originally contained in the niches 
 107 figures, which have unfortunately been destroyed. 
 
 Bishop Walter de Skirlaw, who occupied the episcopal throne 
 from 1388 to 1405, was a great builder. To him mainly we 
 owe the present cloisters, though they were completed by his 
 successor. Cardinal Langley, in 141 8. 
 
 The monks' dormitory on the western side of the cloister 
 is also of this time. On the southern side was the refectory. 
 This portion was rebuilt by Dean Sudbury between 1661 and 
 1684 and converted into a library, and such it remains to-day. 
 
 Near the refectory is the kitchen, built by Prior Fossor. It 
 
THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH 15 
 
 is octagonal in plan, and possesses a fine groined roof. It is 
 now attached to the deanery, and known as the dean's 
 kitchen. 
 
 We must now turn our attention to the erection of the 
 present central tower. The belfry added by Hugh de 
 Derlington was in 1429 struck by lightning and set on fire. 
 It must after this have been repaired in some way, but in 
 1456 it was in a very unsafe and dangerous condition, as the 
 following letter written by the prior, William Ebchester, to 
 Bishop Neville testifies : — 
 
 "The Belfry of your church, both in its masonry and 
 " timber, in 'consequence of winds and storms is so en- 
 " feebled and shaken, that doubts are entertained of its 
 '■ standing for any length of time. We have called in 
 " workmen in both capacities, and they have reported to us 
 '■ that three of its sides are out of perpendicular, that many 
 " of the Key and cornerstones of its windows have fallen 
 " out, that in other respects it is defective, and that besides, 
 " its woodwork is in a state of great decay so that it cannot 
 " be expected to stand for any length of time. Some are of 
 " opinion that the belfry should be totally removed as it 
 " cannot stand longer ; others on the contrary, wish it to 
 " be perfectly restored ; a thing which exceeds our means, 
 " unless we have the advantage of charitable aid. In this 
 " state of doubt and hesitation, we have recourse to you, as 
 " members to their head, presuming not to engage in any 
 " such great and stupendous alteration with reference to your 
 " church, without your advice. 
 
 " If, which God forbid, the tower should fall, the solemn 
 " fabric of our choir, and the shrine of our most holy patron, 
 " would without doubt, be broken down and irrevocably laid 
 " flat on the ground, for that is the direction in which it leans. 
 " We confess that whenever winds and storms are high, and 
 " we are standing at our duty in that part of the church we 
 " tremble for our fate, having positive danger before our eyes." 
 
 Shortly afterwards, the rebuilding of all the upper part of 
 the central tower was commenced anjl continued for some 
 years. It was not complete in 1474 when Richard Bell was 
 prior, as in a letter written at the time he mentions the 
 " reedificacion of our steeple, begun but nogt fynyshed, in 
 defaulte of goods, as God knoweth." It is therefore most 
 
lb. DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 probable that the upper portion was not completed until 
 towards the close of the fifteenth century. 
 
 We have now reached a period when the glories of Gothic 
 architecture were fading, during which many of our finest 
 churches suffered considerably. Durham is no exception to the 
 rule, and we find during the next two centuries a long record 
 of destruction and so-called improvement. This, perhaps, 
 reached its worst stage during the time of Wyatt, who in 1 796 
 pulled down the magnificent Norman chapter-house. During 
 the last decade, however, this has been completely rebuilt 
 from as nearly as possible the original design. Wyatt also 
 rebuilt the turrets on the eastern transept or Nine Altar Chapel 
 from his own design, and removed the great Early Engljsh 
 rose window in the east end and replaced it by the present 
 one. The original stained glass was taken out of all the 
 windows of the east end, and Raine, in his history, tells us 
 that it "lay for a long time afterwards in baskets upon the 
 " floor, and when the greater part of it had been purloined, 
 " the remainder was locked up in the Galilee. ... At a still 
 " later period, about fifteen years ago, portions of it were 
 " placed in the great round window, and the rest still remains 
 "unappropriated." This was written in 1833. It is also on 
 record that Wyatt formed a scheme to re-open the great 
 western doorway of the cathedral by the pulling down of the 
 Galilee Chapel, from which he intended constructing a carriage- 
 drive to the castle. This abomination was actually commenced 
 when Dean Cornwallis arrived, and he, with the assistance 
 of John Carter, and the Society of Antiquaries, was fortunately 
 able to put a stop to it. Thus was this beautiful and unique 
 specimen of Transitional Norman architecture preserved to us. 
 
 Wyatt contemplated several other "improvements" of a 
 similar character, one of which was the surmounting of the 
 central tower by a spire, but fortunately he was not allowed 
 to carry them out. 
 
 /During the present century many restorations have been 
 made, of which we will mention only the most notable : — 
 
 The central tower was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 
 1859. 
 
 During 1870 to 1876 extensive internal alterations were 
 made. A new choir screen and pulpit were erected, the floor 
 of the choir laid in marble mosaic, the choir stalls returned to 
 
Tlie WesT- Piofpectrof-tlie Catlietiril 
 Oriu.rcK OT Duvnam 
 
 Ecclefia? Catk: BuuciiacniM' 
 
 fj-ciCi? OcciacntAlu 
 
 [J^ratn an old PrinU 
 THE WEST END IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY." 
 
i^ DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 their original positions, and the walls of the church scraped in 
 order to clear them from the many coats of lime and distemper' 
 which lay on them. 
 
 The Norman chapter-house has lately been restored and in 
 great part rebuilt as a memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot. 
 
„„J«*^ 
 
 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 EXTERIOR 
 
 Apprqachi no the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north 
 by the large open space between it and the Castle, known as 
 me Palace Green, we obtain a complete elevation of the whole 
 
 ^structure ^ There is little foom to doubt, though the details 
 
 nntiirally ^rary with tTiq riat e of erection^ that the origmal plan 
 of Carileph's church has been carried out in its entirety, 
 with two exceptions. These are the addition of the easterp 
 transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or 
 Lady Chapel at the west end. The entire lenp rfh of the building . 
 not inclu jdiagJh£_Ga]iIee-jcbapel, is 43 1 feet, whir h is made up 
 a s follo ^ : — Nine altar chapeLgxJee t, the choif 1 20 feet, the 
 Transeptr37"fee2IaH3Ithe-riaKe-2Q3Jjeey 
 
 THe Western Towers are square and solid, and were 
 evidently included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall 
 arcades on both the interior and exterior are carried round 
 them. The Norman work is continued as far as the nave roof, 
 and it is extremely probable that they were originally terminated 
 at this height, in accordance with the Norman custom, with low 
 pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at what date they 
 were raised is not on record, but the style of architecture of 
 the upper portion suggests the early part of the thirteenth 
 century. The added portion, namely that above the clerestory, 
 consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by moulded 
 arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third 
 stages have pointed arches, while those of the second and 
 fourth are round. Above . this again were tall wooden spires 
 covered with lead. These were removed about t^e year 1657, 
 and towards the close of the eighteenth centur)?' the present 
 pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this time, also, 
 much of the surface of the towers was renewed. 
 
 The Central Tower. — The present central tower is noble 
 
22 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 in proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to 
 the whole group. It must needs be of a very diiferent character 
 from the old Norman tower, of which no trace now remains^ 
 and was most probably of the usual type, low and square, and 
 surmounted by a short pyramidal spire. The existing structure 
 may be attributed to Bishpp Booth and Prior Richard Bell, 
 about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was written. 
 Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower 
 portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows, 
 glazed, each divided by a transom, and their heads having an 
 ogee label crocketed and finished with a tall finial also; 
 crocketed. Between and on either side of these windows are 
 panelled pilasters and brackets carrying figures. The lower, 
 and upper stages are divided by a narrow external gallery 
 running round the tower, and protected by a pierced, embattled 
 parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and 
 certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tow^r as a whole. 
 The upper stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two- 
 light windows on each face, surmounted by crocketed ogee| 
 label mouldings and finials. These lights are louvred. Th^ 
 whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet. On eacli 
 angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with 
 j)anelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. 
 The interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the galleryl 
 which runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave 
 and choir transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate 
 one being carved with grotesque heads, and is protected by a 
 parapet pierced in quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee- 
 Leaded, with crockets and finials/ There is strong evidence in 
 the construction of the present tower that it was the original 
 intention to surmount it by some other erection, probably a spire.;j 
 Each interior angle contains strong and massive squinchei 
 which are of no constructive use at present, and must have 
 been -originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The 
 buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet,:- 
 which would seem to point to the same conclusion. Why thiji 
 project was never carried out cannot be said, but probably ^ 
 would not have added to the artistic effect of the tower.l 
 "The belfry contains a peal of eight bells. • 
 
 The East Front. — The circumstances which led to the 
 removal of Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern 
 
i'. S. Bolas&' Co., PJw'o.'\ 
 
 THE CENTRAL TOWER FROM PALACE GREEN. 
 
EXTERIOR 25 
 
 transept have already been referred to. The present east end 
 is divided into three bays by massive buttresses, each of which 
 contains three lofty lancet windows separated by smaller 
 buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is the famous large 
 rose window. The north and south ends of the transept are 
 finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt. 
 
 The West Front of Durham has, curiously enough, also 
 lost its original character. The western doorway of the 
 cathedral is hidden on the exterior by the Galilee or Lady 
 Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in 1175. Above the 
 Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year 1 346, 
 while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window 
 has over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch. 
 Above this again, and between the two flanking western towers, 
 is a small gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen 
 from the opposite side of the river, is extremely picturesque. 
 The projecting mass of the Galilee, the western towers, the 
 foreshortened nave roof, and the majestic central tower behind 
 and above, form a group of high and rare excellence. 
 
 The North Door is now the principal entrance to the 
 cathedral. Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. 
 The first porch was Norman, of four orders depth, with detached 
 shafts in the recesses. Above this was a high-pitched gable 
 and roof, the front being ornamented with a semi-circular-headed 
 wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway is of two orders 
 only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the original. 
 The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each case, 
 IS most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and 
 the arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and 
 lozenges, as welt as many curious figure subjects. While 
 examining this doorway, notice should be taken of the ironwork 
 of the door itself, and particularly of the sanctuary knocker. 
 In mediaeval times all churches afforded sanctuary to wrong- 
 doers, but at places where the shrines of saints existed the 
 sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being one of 
 these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claim- 
 ing the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The 
 earliest instance, of which any record has been kept, of 
 sanctuary being claimed at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during 
 the episcopate of Cynewulf, who was bishop from 740 to 74S, 
 and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals claiming 
 
26 
 
 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two 
 small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still 
 
 Detail of Iron-work on South Door. Dr.iwn by J. E. Bygate. 
 
 be observed. The knocker itself, as may be seen from the 
 illustration, is a great grotesque head, made of bronze, and 
 hanging from its grinning mouth is 
 a ring Originally, there is no doubt, 
 the eyes were filled with crystals or 
 enamel, as small claw-like pieces of 
 bronze remain by which the filling 
 was attached. The age of this piece 
 of work is probably the same as that 
 ' of the doorway itself. 
 
 The South Doorways. — There 
 are two doorways into the south aisle, 
 one, known as the Monks' Door, 
 opening from the western portion of 
 the cloisters and immediately opposite 
 the north porch just described. On 
 the cloister side this shows a Norman 
 ^ „ , arch resting on double shafts, which 
 
 The Sanctuary Knocker. • i_ j -ii. i ^^ 
 
 Drawn by J. IS. Bygnte. are cnnchcd With a lozenge pattern. 
 
^■' i^r an ^ 
 
 — Tc (_LoiS-r-rT^s -—/^ 
 
 Drawn'by'Omar R. Albrow. 
 
28 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 On the inner or aisle side there are two orders, with 
 shafts in the recesses, which are also decorated with the 
 lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and 
 the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The 
 capitals are richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the 
 abacus and arch of this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly 
 suggesting the Byzantine influence which at one time was found 
 in-Norman decoration. Here again, on the door itself, we have 
 
 Oknament on South Dookwav. 
 
 a fine specimen of very elaborate and characteristic Norman 
 iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door, opens into 
 the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is also 
 Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop 
 Pudsey, and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the 
 recesses on either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now 
 much decayed, not enough remaining to suggest that in its 
 original state this doorway must have been a noble specimen 
 of the architectural design of its period. On the inner side it 
 exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch, cushion 
 capitals, and shafts. 
 
 The Western Doorway. — The exterior of this great door- 
 way is now within the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard 
 (1099-1128), and is comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it 
 consists of an arch of four orders ornamented with chevrons. 
 The inner face is very similar to the outer, but is shallower, 
 having only two orders. The shafts and capitals are without 
 decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf 
 pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In 
 
EXTERIOR 
 
 29 
 
 order to reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to 
 it, Wyatt proposed pulling down the Galilee chapel. 
 
 _south. east, and west by t he various mgaastic-b uildings. and 
 on the north by th e cathedraHtselfJI The existing cloister was 
 commenced during the time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406), 
 
 S. B. Bo/as A' Co., Photo.] 
 
 THE CLOISTER. 
 
 and was completed by Cardinal Langley (who held the see 
 from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier part of his epis- 
 copate. The contracts (the first dated 1398) for building the 
 cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are indebted 
 to Bishop Skirlaw. for their very existence, as it is recorded that 
 he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his 
 life and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been 
 very much altered and restored, and probably the only original 
 
30 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 feature remaining is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled, 
 and moulded, and decorated with shields, upon which are painted 
 and gilded various coats of arms. In the centre of the cloister 
 garth are the remains of what was the monks' lavatory. It was 
 erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of octagonal shape. 
 Some of the stone for its construction was brought from Eggle- 
 stone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place 
 to quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts, 
 seven windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of 
 which was covered with lead. 
 
 There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the 
 monastery in its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is 
 also probable that one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though 
 this also has entirely vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon 
 Greenwell) some marks of a lean-to roof on the north and east 
 walls may be traces of its presence. In the western alley of the 
 cloister is the old treasury, rich in records, and the vestries for 
 canons, king's scholars, and choristers. The alley opens at the 
 end into what is now called the crypt (see p. 85). This was un- 
 doubtedly the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious stone- 
 vaulted chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple 
 moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge. 
 Over the hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time 
 formed part of a residence attached to one of the stalls. It is 
 now, however, used as a library. It occupies the whole of the 
 western side of the cloister, and is 194 feet long. It was 
 originally subdivided, by wooden partitions, into separate 
 sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is 
 worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly 
 squared with an axe (see p. 99). 
 
 In the south alley was the refectory and the monks' 
 common dining-hall. The original building is now entirely 
 altered, though there remains beneath it a very early crypt, 
 with plain, short square piers, and a simple quadripartite vault 
 without ribs. Another portion is covered by a wagon-head 
 vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar archi- 
 tectural character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it 
 may have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century 
 and rebuilt, and after the dissolution of the monastery was used 
 by the Minor Canons of the church as a common hall. It 
 seems to have fallen into a bad state of repair, and was again 
 
EXTERIOR ' 31 
 
 entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury (1661-1684), who was 
 elected to that office immediately after the Restoration. He 
 converted it into a library, to which use it is still put. The 
 account of this building, given in the " Antiquities of Durham," 
 is of sufficient interest to bear quotation. 
 
 " In the South Alley of the Cloysters," says our authority, " is 
 ' a large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on 
 ' the North and South sides ; and in the West and nether Part 
 'thereof, is a long. Bench of Stone in Mason- work, from the 
 ' Cellar Door to the Pantry or Cove Door : Above the Bench 
 ' is. Wainscot Work two Yards and a Half high, finely carved, 
 ■ and set with imboss'd jW^ork in Wainscot, and gilded uiider 
 • the carved Work. Above the Wainscot was a large Picture of 
 ' our Saviour Christ, the" blessed Virgin Mary, and S.John, in 
 ' fine gilt Work, and most excellent Colours j which Pictures 
 ' having been washed over with Lime did long appear through it. 
 ' This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it, Thomas Castell, 
 ' Prior, Anno Domini, 15 18 Mensis Julij. Whence it is mani- 
 ' fest that Prior Castell wainscotted the Frater-house round 
 ' about. 
 
 " Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at enter- 
 
 ' ing, is a strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer, 
 
 ' called the Grace Cup, stood, which every day served the 
 
 ' Monks after Grace, to drink out of round the Table ; which 
 
 ' cup was finely edged about with Silver, and double Gilt, In 
 
 ' the same place were kept many large and great Mazers of the 
 
 ' same sort. . . . Every Monk had his Mazer severally by 
 
 ' himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the 
 
 ' whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service, 
 
 ' at their Diet, and at their Table. ... At these Times (at 
 
 ' meals) the Master observed these wholesom and godly Orders, 
 
 ' for the continual instruction of their Youth in Virtue and 
 
 Learning; that is, one of the Novices appointed by the 
 
 Master, read some Part of the Old and New Testament in 
 
 Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at the South 
 
 End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window, 
 
 encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron 
 
 Rails to go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy 
 
 Bible. . . . 
 
 " This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall 
 till Dr Sudbury, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a 
 
32 
 
 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 " beautiful Library in its Place ; but he not living to finish it 
 " compleatly, did by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir, 
 " Sir John Sudbury, to the due Execution thereof." 
 
 The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting. 
 There are several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare 
 and valuable. Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among 
 which is a copy of the Gospels of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S.J 
 John, written before the year 700 ; and several books given by 
 Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is a Bible, ih 
 four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A col- 
 
 S. CUTHUEKT'S CHEST IN THE CASTLE. 
 
 lection of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the 
 remains of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken 
 from his coffin when it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen 
 here. Numerous specimens of Roman altars, tablets, and 
 sculptured stones, from various Roman stations in Durham 
 and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are preserved in 
 this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and 
 Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely 
 proportioned, and has a magnificent open timber roof. 
 
 The Chapter-House opens upon the eastern alley of the 
 cloister. The present building is a very recent restoration of 
 the original, which is acknowledged to have been the finest 
 
EXTERIOR 33 
 
 existing Norman chapter-house remaining in England. It was 
 erpQtgdj or more probably eompleted, during the time of 
 Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133.-1140), and was in existence until 
 1796, during, the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that 
 
 S. B. Bolas &> Co., Phoio.\ 
 
 THE CHAPTER'-HOUSE. 
 
 time it was almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt,. 
 who reported to the chapter that it was in a ruinous state.:. The 
 truth of this report is doubtful, but the partial demolition, 
 of the building was ordered in November 1795, and also the; 
 construction of a new room on the site. The work of destruction 
 was, begun by knocking out the keystones of the vaulting and 
 C 
 
,34 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 allowing, the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the building 
 was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion en- 
 closed by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster, 
 a plaster ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately 
 authentic records of its original appearance, both exterior and 
 interior, are in existence. They are the drawings made for the 
 Society of Antiquaries by John Carter in 1795. Its dimen- 
 sions were 78 by 35 feet; the east end being apsidal and the 
 roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the interior ran 
 a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted, 
 except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed 
 intersecting arches, similar to that in the aisles of the 
 cathedral, but with single instead of double shafts. Above 
 the arcade was a string course carved with zig-zag ornament. 
 The entrance was from the west end, and the east end was 
 occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the 
 prior. In the apse were five three-light windows of the 
 Decorated period, and above the western door a five-light 
 Perpendicular window, which contained coloured glass, 
 illustrating the "Root of Jesse." On either side of this 
 was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and en- 
 closed under one arch, carved with chevron ornament. 
 There was also a round-headed Norman window in each 
 of the north and south walls. A doorway in the south wall 
 led to three chambers. One larger, and two smaller, which 
 are stated in the " Rites of Durham " to have been used 
 as a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used 
 in early times as a burial-place for the bishops, and many 
 of their graves with inscriptions were in existence previous 
 to the demolition of 1796. During excavations in 1874, 
 the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara, 
 de Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and 
 the head of acrozier were discovered and removed to the 
 dean and chapter library. 
 
 The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a 
 memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot. 
 
 The Northern Alley of the Cloister, running along the 
 south wall of the church, contains little of interest, except 
 the two doorways previously described. 
 
 The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition, 
 with the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass. 
 
EXTERIOR 
 
 35 
 
 the oak roof with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory 
 in the centre of the garth, must have been exceptionally fine. 
 
 A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine 
 Altar Chapel is now known as the Dun Cow. The original 
 sculpture was replaced in the last century by the existing 
 panel, but the legend connected with it is interesting. After 
 their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks, bearing the body 
 of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While trying 
 
 Bolas &> Co., Photo.] 
 
 . THE EXTERIOR, FROM THE SOUTH.EAST. 
 
 to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the 
 coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of 
 three days was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to 
 them that they were to carry their saint to Dunholme. Still 
 they were in difficulties, not knowing where Dunholme was, 
 but fortune, or Providence, again favoured them. A woman, 
 who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to inquire 
 if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was 
 in Dunholme ; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their 
 precious charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful com- 
 
36 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 memoration of the incident Flambard erected this monument 
 of a milkmaid and her cow. (Seep. 9.) 
 
 The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first 
 sight be disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view 
 there is a certain flatness of effect and want of light and shade 
 which is, perhaps, slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely 
 attributable to the scaling and scraping process to which the 
 building was subjected during the last century, when some 
 inches of the outer surface of the stone, and with it much 
 architectural detail, were removed. The result is the flatness 
 previously alluded .to, and a general newness of appearance 
 pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where 
 only the finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry, 
 towers, and turrets stand against the sky, the result is magnifi- 
 cent, giving an impression of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed 
 by any other English cathedral. 
 
Photochrom Co. Ltd., Photo.} 
 
 THE NAVE, LOOKING WEST. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 ' THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 
 
 If the exterior of Durham is in any way disappointing, the 
 interior ' more than compenlsates for its shortcomings. Thg 
 .general impression on enteHng the church is one of simple 
 dignity and solemnity.'Tl iel greatTnaBsiveness ot the structure" 
 and abs ence of ela borat e ornament no dQulgj: CQptribute to 
 jhis„fcftLing^iJia,.T)iniis. huulders o f old have certainly con- 
 _ trived to stamp on their work y heir o wn feeling of awe in the 
 presenc e o£th£.AlLP-awjErful arid EterriaTGodir Whatever has 
 Deen lost through vandalism fend the restorer, this remains 
 unaltered. The general design of the church, exclusive of 
 detail, which, of course, changed and developed with the 
 ■progress of Gothic airt, has uncfoubtedly been carried out on 
 the plan intended by Bishop JCarileph, the only important 
 variation being the addition off the transept at the east end, 
 known as the Nine Altars Chajpel. The original plan consists 
 _ofa^naye and aisles, transepts wdth aisles on feeireastem^idej 
 ^choir also with ais les. _#2!I|KJe. three J!.psH3^.tfifl^fiaSiUeH3h, 
 j°1th a-wntral tnwer over -tbe.-juHt6ti6>te-ef-tiaBsepfev tiavey.aud 
 ^hoif.,an d.towers. flanking the wesfl 
 
 _E ach bay of the Nave is divi d^ into two sub-bays. The 
 mai n bags, have^ massive piers ,w5!fe gRg^g^d-^sbg-fts'on^aJljg, 
 recessp*^ faf-pg Th e bases of thesat,^are- r.rnrjfnrm.in^ plap, 
 
 ^^^^^ A t the height of 
 are surm6uiitfea^by_plain 
 
 thnnf);^^ thp f^j-mg pf the cross are very Ifejrt, 
 
 Ihe springing of the arch the shaftSJare surmc 
 
 cushion capital's. Thedivisibh iirto sub-bays is eff^hCted by 
 
 aftg intrbdu c tion midway of a m,ai)Si ye round^c'^ E Smr oij 
 sr[iigrp hgsp. Thpgp .rn.l.ijjmma-aj»...QrinajTipnfp(^ j n varinns way fi, 
 
 by chann els xait-QJX-the,f ace. . LSome take the form of a zig-za g, 
 ijpmp a ,gpi Tal, others a spiral in two directions , tormmg a trellis-" 
 like pattarrif k nd others again are reeded vertically: ^I'tieir 
 ca pitals are octagonal cushions. The arche s of the sub-bays 
 
 39 
 
40 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 are recessed square, with the usual Norman M^ moulding,, 
 decorated with, chevrons, and on the wall face A square billet. 
 The chevron ornament is absent in the earF"^ work in the 
 choir and transepts. The triforium is Almost uniform 
 throughout the whole church. In each sf'^^V '' consist| 
 of two small arches under one larger one, /''■^ ^^^ tympanum 
 solid. Here also the capitals are cushion^ ^^^ perfectly, plain. 
 
 Above the triforium isv .he cleresto/i ^^ich contams one 
 light to each sub-bay, and surmou^g all is the vaulting, 
 which springs from the piers and^rom grotesquely carved 
 corbels between the triforium "arches- The vaulting rite are 
 ornamented with chevrons on eith^ side of a bold semi-circular 
 moulding. So much for the genef 1 arrangement of the bays. 
 Some idea of the massiveness of tif structures may be gather^i^ 
 when it is known that each groupM the clustered: pillars separ- 
 ating the bays covers an area off two hundred and twenty-five_ 
 square feet at its base, while thoi^ of the cylindrical columnsof 
 the sub-bays are twelve feet sqti^e, and the columns themselves 
 have a circumference of over tv^enty-three feet. There is little 
 room to doubt that the effect M^am^d by the old builders of 
 JDUrha m was intent ionaTr7Tlp"i»asterly"way in wJiich gfeST 
 masses~"or"sond~masonty, ieater than was constructively 
 necessary, are tandled, and tipe reticence and delicacy, of the 
 ornament combine to prove\this. There is in the whole 
 scheme a delightful union ofV^at' power and vigour in the 
 masses, and of tenderness arid^o^ing care in the detail. 
 
 The Choir is the earlifesf part of the- church. Its. two 
 western bays show -Carileph^ work, but the eastern piers have 
 been considerably altered Pwing to the addition >t a later 
 period of the eastern trat^sept, when Carileph's apses . were 
 taken down. /This bay cr^ntains some very rich and beautiful 
 detail.!/' The piers on ei'^^^^ side of the choir are decorated' 
 with arcades, .thejc»'--r5=>^age having six arches, and the upper 
 three, all jsichly carved\with foliage in the caps and hood 
 mouldj/and with heads and half figures^, There is also a 
 <5fl;jatre aumbry on eachpifer. ; Above the upper arcade, which 
 Jbreaks through the levgl of the triforium string course, which is 
 also carried round it^here is oh each pier a figure of an angel 
 •beneath a canopy./ These are the-only two figures remaining 
 of many which formerly added to the beauty of the interior;of 
 :the church. The vaulting of the choir is thirteentfa-ceniaary 
 
ONE BAY OF THE NAVE, 
 
 [Measured and drawn by J. E. Bygate. 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 43 
 
 work, quadripartite, the, ribs decorated with dog-tooth orna- 
 ment and square leaves, and has fine bosses at the intersections 
 of the diagonal ribs. The choir of Durham is especially inter- 
 esting to the student of architecture, showing as it does the 
 Early Norman work of Carileph, combined with the Early 
 English and Early Decorated work of the newer eastern 
 portion. 
 
 On the south side of the choir stands the moniiment of 
 BishopJEigjAeld, who directed the see of Durham from 1345 
 until 1 38 1. This monument is beneath the Episcopal Throne, 
 which was erected by Bishop Hatfield himself. It consists of 
 an altar tomb surmounted by a recumbent effigy of the bishop, 
 in richly-worked robes, beneath a canopy, richly groined, with 
 foliated bosses at the intersections of the ribs. /On the walls 
 at the east and west ends may still be seen the remains of 
 fresco painting, representing in each case two angel^ Beneath 
 the staircase leading up to the throne is a very fine decorated 
 arcade, containing several shields bearing the bishop's and 
 other arms. The whole structure was originally richly coloured 
 and gilded, and remains of this work can still be made out. 
 It is a noble specimen of the work of its date. -'" 
 
 Immediately opposite tlje. tomb of Bisho p Hatfield , on the 
 north side of the choir/the visitor will notice tjie recently- 
 erected memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot/ This is an 
 altar tomb of black and coloured marble. The sides are orna- 
 mented with panels of Perpendicular tracery containing shields. 
 Round the upper mouldings runs a Latin inscription in brass. 
 The whole is surmounted by a recumbent figure of the bishop 
 in white marble, his hands on his breast, and his feet resting 
 against three books. Originally designed by Sir Edgar 
 Boehm, R.A., at his death the monument was completed by 
 Alfred Gilbert, R.A. 
 
 ' The beautiful altar screen is usually known as the 
 Neville Screen, and was erected about the year 1380, 
 mainly from moneys supplied by John, Lord Neville of Raby. 
 It spans the whole of the choir, and is continued along the 
 sides of the sacrarium, forming sedilia of four seats on either 
 side. It is pierced by two doors, which lead to the shrine of 
 S. Cuthbert, immediately behind the screen. Though very 
 light and graceful in appearance, the screen, as it is at present, 
 can give the beholder little idea of what its appearance must 
 
r44 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 have been when each of its canopied niches contained a figurg 
 aglow with gold and colour. There were originally 107 of' 
 these statues, the Centre one representing Our Lady, supported 
 on either side by S. Cuthbert and S. Oswald. Unfortunately 
 none of the figures remain in situ. 
 
 Immediately in front of the steps of the high altar will be 
 seen the matrix of a large brass. It covers the grave of 
 Ludovick de Bellomonte, Bishop of Durham frbiri 1318" to 
 .1333. The slab, which is in two pieces, measures fifteen feet 
 ten inches by nine feet seven inches, and an examination will 
 show the brass to have been an elaborate and sumptuou| 
 composition. Unfortunately all the metal work has dis- 
 appeared. 
 
 I The Stalls, as they originally existed, were destroyed in 
 1650 by the Scottish prisoners, who were kept in the cathedral 
 ^.fter the battle of Dunbar.^ The present stalls /we owe to 
 Bishop Cosin (1660 to 1672); and they are remarkable pieces 
 |of carving for that date. In general character they imitate 
 jPerpendicular work, though the details do not adhere alto^ 
 igether to that style. 
 
 Before leaving this part of the church a note may be deVoted 
 to the alterations and additions made during the years 1870 to 
 -1876. A new screen between the nave and choir was then 
 erected ; the choir floor relaid with marble mosaic ; the stalls 
 replaced in their old positions, and new portions made to 
 replace those destroyed in 1846. A new organ, pulpit, and 
 lectern were also added. 
 
 ' The new Choir Screen is very much open to criticism. 
 Though no doubt beautiful in detail, and of excellent wprk- 
 "manship, its effect, as a whole, is not pleasant, when seen 
 from the west end silhouetted against the light of the choir. 
 A screen previously existed in this position erected by Bishop 
 Cosin. This was removed in 1846, with the idea of improv- 
 ing' the appearance of the church from the west end by 
 obtaining a "vista" through to the Neville screen and rose 
 wifldow of the eastern transept. The effect seems, however, 
 to have been disappointing, hence the erection of the present 
 screen, which may or may not have improved matters. In 
 the two western piers of the choir holes may be seen cut in 
 the stonew&rk. These received the rood-beam from which^l 
 during Lent, the Lenten curtain was suspended. 
 
i'. \B. Bolas &= Co., Photo.^ 
 
 TRIFORIUM AND CLERESTORY. 
 
THE HsTTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 49 
 
 The North Aiisle of the Choir, again, shows the joining 
 and harmonising df the "new work "of the eastern transept 
 with the earher Notjman work. Inside the church the most 
 easterly bay appear^ to be altogether' of Early English date; 
 but on the exterior iV will be seen that the Norman wall runs 
 right up to the west^>rn wall of the eastern transept. The 
 interior of the bay, h&wever, is enriched with a wall arcade 
 similar to that in the Ivrine Altars Chapel, and the arch and 
 vault are decorated witlAhiJage and dog-tooth ornament. 
 
 Along the side wall o^^jg aisle runs a stone bench bearing 
 the arms of Bishop Waimde Skirlaw (1388 to 1405), near 
 which he was buried, but ^monument and brass, erected by 
 himself, have disappeared. ^L 
 
 Slighly westward of the^pnch is a doorway which at 
 one time opened into the 3l,crist's Exchequer, erected by 
 Prior Wessington, but it has lon^ ago been destroyed. 
 
 The piers of the west end oft this aisle bear marks which 
 were originally holes cut m the stoW. These served to support 
 a porch, having a rood and altar, wihich is thus described in the 
 " Rites of Durham " : " Right over the Entrance of this North 
 " AUeye, going to the Songe Scoole /the Exchequer mentioned 
 " above) there was a porch adjoyni ^gg to the quire on the 
 " South, and S. Benedick's altar on the. North, the porch having 
 " in it an altar, and the roode or picturi, Qf 0^. Saviour which 
 " altar and roode was much frequented ir devotion by Docteur 
 " Swalwell, sometime monk of Durham, tl g gaid roode havinge 
 " marvellous sumptuous furniture for festivi.n daves belonginsie 
 "to it." ■ / 6 8 
 
 The South Aisle of the Choir is sim^ar architecturally 
 to the north aisle. Here may be seen a -rloorwav of late 
 thirteenth-century work, which originally led to the 'revestry, 
 now destroyed. / 
 
 Here again the eastern piers bear marks left by holes in the 
 stonework, which originally carried the supf^jts of a screen in 
 front of which the Black Rood of Scotlaq'd which was taken 
 from King David at the battle of NevilleJ^ Cross (1346), was 
 placed. The rood is described as havin;^ ]-,ggn brought from 
 Holyrood by David Bruce, and was made 'of silver, with effigies 
 of our Saviour, S. John, and Our Lady, hq^yi^gg crowns of gold 
 on their heads. The Black Rood was restored to its original 
 possessors at the close of the war. '- 
 
 D 
 
so DURHAM CATHEDRAI 
 
 The windows of both the choir aisles Jhially contained 
 very fine old stained glass, representing yfious saints, and 
 scenes in the hfe of S. Cuthbert. / 
 
 The Transepts.— Leaving the choir/y its western end 
 the visitor at once enters the transepts/A large portion of 
 these, including the great piers and afces which carry the 
 central tower, are, without doubt, of the/ne of Carileph. The 
 eastern side of both is certainly his wjK, while the western is 
 probably the building which was ca^d on by the monks in 
 the interval between Carileph's deatj^ 1096, and the appoint- 
 ment of Flambard to the see in^99- The work on the 
 eastern sides differs little from tha^f the choir, while that of 
 the western sides, being plainerj/.s been thought by some to 
 indicate a want of means on/ie part of the monks, while 
 carrying on the work in the Jterval just alluded to. Each 
 transept consists of two bays, Vth an aisle on the eastern side, 
 access to which is gained by tie ascent of three steps. 
 
 Each of the three sub-bifs nearest the north and south 
 extremities originally conta^ed an altar, those in the nortii 
 transept being dedicated /o S. Nicholas and S. Giles, S. 
 Gregory and S. Benedict. JOver the site of the latter may still 
 be seen remains of fresc/painting. The altars in the south 
 transept were dedicatedVone to S. Faith and S. Thomas the 
 Apostle, one to our Lpiy of Bolton and the other to our Lady 
 of Houghall. The n<^h transept is closed by a large window, 
 which is the work c/ Prior Fossor, probably about the year 
 1362. The windov,4s of six lights, and the head contains late 
 geometrical tracerV The architectural feature of this window, 
 especially for its dfte, is the transom which crosses the mullions, 
 and which— issjc)t visible from the exterior^^^elow the 
 transom is a second inner set of mullions supporting a small 
 gallery, by means of which access may be had to the triforium. 
 In the year 151 2 the window was repaired by Prior Castell, 
 who filled it with stained glass containing large figures, among 
 others of S. Augustine, S. Ambrose, S. Gregory, and S. Jerome. 
 From this circumstance the window became known as the 
 window of the Four Doctors of the Church. Prior Castell also 
 contrived to introduce a figure of himself kneeling at the feet 
 of the Virgin. Th^ large window at the end of the south- 
 transept, also namedlfrom the glass it contained, the Te Deum 
 window, is in the Perpendicular style, and is of six lights. : It 
 
S. £. Solas &= Co., Photo.] 
 
 THE TRANSEPTS, LOOKING NORTH. 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 53 
 
 may possibly have been the work of Prior Wessington, 1416 to 
 1446. Along the sill of this window also access may be had 
 to the triforium. 
 
 Both the north-west and south-west corners of the transepts 
 contain stairways, opening at their various levels on to the 
 triforium, clerestory, and the space between the vaulting and 
 the roof. That in the South transept also gives access to the 
 central tower and belfry, an ascent of which, if the day be 
 clear, will repay the visitor for his fatiguing climb of three 
 hundred and forty steps by the magnificent view spread at 
 his feet. The transepts were no doubt the earliest part of 
 the building to be vaulted; that of the northern arm being 
 plain is probably the earlier, while that of the south arm, 
 though of similar character, has zig-zag ornaments. Several 
 of the priors of Durham were buried in the transepts, the first. 
 Prior Fossor, 1364, and the last, Robert Ebchester, who died 
 in 1484. 
 
 On the piers of the transepts projecting brackets may be 
 noticed. These are of Perpendicular date, and originally 
 carried statues. 
 
 The crossing, or space between the four piers supportina; 
 the central tower, gives us a fine view of the interior of the 
 lantern. 
 
 The Tower is carried on four large clustered Norman piers 
 with semi-circular arches. Over the arches, and seventy-seven 
 feet above the floor of the church, is the lower stage of the 
 lantern, round which is a gallery with an open pierced parapet. 
 It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved with a 
 grotesque head. The walls are panelled up to the base of 
 the great windows, — each panel having two cinquefoiled 
 arches under a crocketed canopy and final; while between 
 them are small buttresses, also panelled, and ending in a 
 finial which reaches the same height as the canopy. <' Over 
 the panelling is a string course ornamented with that charac- 
 teristic ornament of the Perpendicular period, the Tudor 
 flower, and above this on each face two tall windows near 
 together. Each window has two lights, and is divided by a 
 transom. The roof of the lantern is groined, with fine bosses 
 at the intersections of the ribs. The whole seen from below 
 has a very fine effect, and must be very different in appearance 
 from the original. Norman structure. The whole of ths 
 
54 
 
 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 lantern was refaced, and the statues which had been removed 
 from their niches were replaced, some thirty years ago, by the 
 Dean and Chapter of Durham. 
 The Norman East End.— The original form of the 
 
 CORBEL IN CHOIR AT JUNCTION OF OLD AND NEW WORK. 
 
 Drawn by J. E. Bygate. 
 
 Norman east end has long been the subject of discussion and 
 conjecture. It was practically safe to assume that the choir 
 ended in an apse, though whether the aisles were also apsidal, 
 or continued round a great apse as an ambulatory, was a 
 debatable point.. This question has now been finally settled. 
 
O 
 g 
 
 S 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 o 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 57 
 
 During some operations necessitating the opening of the floor, 
 in January 1895, certain indications were found which led 
 the diocesan architect, Mr C. H. Fowler, and Canon Green- 
 well to continue the excavation. The result was the discovery 
 that Carileph's church certainly possessed three apses — a large 
 one terminating the choir, and smaller ones the aisles. The 
 apses of the aisles were square externally, and apsidal inter- 
 nally. The great apse consisted of five bays, one on either side 
 next to the choir, forming an oblong between the choir and 
 the springing line of the curve of the apse, over which would 
 be the great sanctuary arch. The remainder, or apse proper, 
 was divided into three bays by engaged clustered shafts, similar 
 to those of the choir and nave. It was surrounded by a wall 
 arcade of the same character as that of the rest of the church. 
 The base of one of the shafts of the arcade was found in 
 position. An extremely interesting point in this discovery is 
 the fact that the levels are the same as those of the nave and 
 choir. The foundations are on the rock at the same depth, 
 and the aisle walls and apse walls are in the same line. The 
 external square line of the aisle apses is in line with the springing 
 of the choir apse. The foundations of the apse to the north aisle 
 have been thoroughly excavated, and there is every reason to 
 believe that that on the south side of the church entirely corre- 
 sponds. The width of the north aisle apse from north to south 
 is nine feet eight inches. There can be little doubt, judging 
 from the remainder of Carileph's work, that all three apses 
 were covered with stone vaults, though of precisely what 
 character can only be a matter of conjecture. The cracking, 
 previously spoken of, which led to this part of the church 
 being taken down and the new eastern transept being erected, 
 cannot have arisen from any subsidence of the foundations. 
 It, in all probability, was the result of the thrust of the apse 
 vaults on to walls which were insufficiently buttressed. The 
 marks on some of the stones found during this excavation, and 
 the shape of others, seem to point to the conclusion that here 
 we have the earliest part of the church, and that Carileph used 
 up in his foundations much of the stone of Aldhun's White 
 Church. 
 
 Of the two usual eastern endings to Norman churches — viz. 
 those with three apses, and those having the aisle carried 
 round as an ambulatory — the latter is far more common ip 
 
58 
 
 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 England, and the former on the Continent. There are two 
 other notable instances of the three apsidal arrangemetit in 
 England: S. Albans, 1077, which is earlier than Durham; 
 and Peterboro', 11 17, which is later than, and was probably 
 modelled on, Durham. There are many examples of ambu- 
 latories—the White Tower Church (London), Winchester, 
 Gloucester, Worcester, and Norwich being among them. 
 The apses of Durham are of considerable depth from east to 
 
 CORBEL IN CHOIR AT JUNCTION OF 
 OLD AND NEW WORK. 
 
 Drawn by J. E. Bygate. 
 
 west, the oblong bay previously mentioned, which is fourteen 
 feet wide in that direction, adding greatly to this effect. The 
 width of the foundations is fourteen feet, and the width of the 
 wall has been seven feet. The diameter of the choir apse 
 from north to south was about thirty-two feet. 
 
 These discoveries are specially interesting, completing asj 
 they do the whole chain, and leading us with very littte: 
 imagination to see in its original condition what must have 
 been, and may even now claim to be, the most noble example 
 of Norman architecture in our country. 
 
i'. B. Bolas &= Co., Photo.] 
 
 TRIFORIUM OF NAVE AND CHOIR, SHOWING JUNCTION OF 
 OLD AND NEW WORK. 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 
 
 6i 
 
 The Nine Altars Chapel. — Leaving the consideration of 
 what once occupied the site of the east end of Durham, we 
 
 Plan of Okiginal Norman East End, with Tomb and Shbine of 
 St Cuthbert at a, 
 
 will turn our attention to the beautiful erection which now 
 
 stands there, the eastern transept, or, as it is named from the 
 
 altars of the saints it once contained beneath its windows, the 
 
 Chapel of the Nine Altars. 
 
 It is approached from the 
 
 aisles by steps, the floor level 
 
 being lower than that of the 
 
 church proper. It is altogether 
 
 a remarkable and interesting 
 
 structure. With its lightness 
 
 and loftiness contrasting 
 
 grandly with the massive 
 
 Norman nave and choir, its 
 
 clustered columns of polished 
 
 marble alternating with stone, 
 
 its fine bold sculpture, its 
 
 splendid vaulted roof and rich 
 
 arcading, it forms a perfect 
 
 example of the Early English 
 
 style. Though regular and symmetrical in general design, the 
 
 detail shows great variety^ and even irregularity, a quality so 
 
 often present in old work, and so much to its advantage. In 
 
 Section of Arch of" Norman Wall Arcade 
 
 in Nave. 
 Section of Hood and Arch Moulding of 
 
 Wall Arcade in Chapel of the Nine 
 
 Altars. 
 
DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 Capital : Chapel of the 
 Nine Altaks. 
 
 general character it may be compared with that at Fountains 
 
 Abbey, which was built during the same time. 
 
 The circumstances leading to its erection have been already 
 referred to. The Norman apses having 
 been partly removed, owing to their 
 dangerous condition, the " New Work," 
 as it was always called, was commenced 
 in the year 1242. The eastern wall, 
 with its rose and nine lancet windows, 
 is the earliest part of the chapel, the 
 north and. south walls being later. 
 The joining and blending of the work 
 with the Norman of Carileph's choir 
 had evidently been accomplished- when 
 the chapel was almost corripleted. 
 The eastern wall is of three bays; each; 
 bay having three lofty lancet windows. 
 The bays are not of equal width, the 
 
 centre one being regulated by the width of the nave of the 
 
 church, and narrower than the north and south bays. 
 
 A very beautiful ar- 
 cade runs completely 
 
 round the walls. It is 
 
 of trefoil arches, deeply 
 
 and richly moulded, 
 
 supported on marble 
 
 columns carved with 
 
 foliage. Over the arches 
 
 is a hood mould termi- 
 nating with heads. In 
 
 the spandrels are a series 
 
 of deeply - sunk and 
 
 moulded quatrefoils, 
 
 two of which contain 
 
 sculpture. The bases 
 
 of the columns rest on 
 
 a plinth. Surmounting 
 
 this arcade is a moulded 
 
 string, from the level of 
 
 which rise the windows, and above the windows another string 
 
 course and a second range of windows. In the centre bay^ 
 
 Capit 
 
 ; Chapel of the Nine Altars. 
 Drawn by J. E. Bygate. 
 
tf* 
 
 Photochrom Co. Lid., Flwto.} 
 
 THE CHAPEL OF THE NINE ALTARS, LOOKING NORTH, 
 WITH TOMB OF S. CUTHDERT ON THE LEFT. 
 
The Interior Of the church 65 
 
 however, is the large rose window, which is over thirty feet in 
 diameter. 
 
 The division of the chapel into three bays is effected by 
 two main vaulting arches, which spring on the western side 
 from the piers of the east end of the choir, and on the eastern 
 side from responds of clustered shafts alternately of marble 
 and stone, banded at intervals and having richly carved 
 capitals. The arches themselves are deeply moulded and 
 ornamented with dog-tooth ornament and foliage. The vault 
 of the central bay has eight ribs — two springing from each 
 of the clusters just described, and two from each of the choir 
 piers. The vaulting of the remaining bays is quadripartite, but 
 has peculiarities which are worthy of notice, arising from 
 inequality of width. We must not omit to call attention to 
 the exquisite sculpture of the vaulting. The centre has figures 
 of the Foui Evangelists, while in the north is a beautifully 
 executed carving of vine and grapes, and in the south, figure 
 subjects. Among the sculptured heads on the wall arcade at 
 the south end, at the western side of the two bays into which 
 the south wall is divided, are two which are portraits of the 
 men to whom we owe the design and execution of the beautiful 
 sculpture of this chapel. One is an elderly man, the other 
 much younger, and both wear linen dust-caps over their heads. 
 
 The nine lancet windows were originally filled with ancient 
 stained glass, which, as the reader will remember, was removed. 
 Below each window was an altar. They were dedicated a 
 follows, beginning at the south end of the chapel ; — 
 
 U 
 
 1. S. Andrew and S. Mary Magdalene. , 
 
 2. S. John the Baptist and S. Margaret. [-South bay. 
 
 3. S. Thomas of Canterbury and S. Catherine. J 
 
 4. S. Oswald and S. Lawrence. ^ 
 
 5. S. Cuthbert and S. Bede. [-Middle bay. 
 
 6. S. Martin. J 
 
 7. S. Peter and S. Paul. 1 
 
 8. S. Aidan and S. Helen. [-North bay. 
 
 9. S. Michael the Archangel. j 
 
 The rose window over the lancets of the middle bay is 
 
 Wyatt's "restoration" of the original one. It consists of an 
 
 outer circle of twenty-four and an inner circle of twelve 
 radiating lights, the muUions of which are received on a 
 foliated circle, in the centre. 
 
 E 
 
66 
 
 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 In the north wall of the chapel is a very fine window, known 
 as the Joseph window, on account of the stained glass it originally 
 contained, which illustrated the life-history of Joseph. It is a 
 beautiful example ot Early Decorated or geometrical Gothic, 
 and is of six lights. There is an inner plane of tracery resting . 
 on clustered shafts, which is connected to the mullions of the 
 window proper by through stones. The window occupies the 
 complete width of the north end of the chapel. The painted 
 glass which it once contained is 
 thus described in the "Rites of 
 Durham " ; " In the North Alley of 
 " the said Nine Altars, there is 
 " another goodly faire great glass 
 " window, called Joseph's Window, 
 " the which hath in it all the whole 
 " storye of Joseph, most artificially 
 " wrought in pictures in fine coloured 
 " glass, accordinge as it is sett 
 " forth in the Bible, verye good 
 " and godly to the beholders 
 " thereof" 
 
 This window deserves the atten- 
 tion of the architectural student, 
 as it is an exceedingly fine speci- 
 men of the tracery of its date. 
 
 The south wall of the chapel 
 contains two windows, each divided 
 by a central mullion, and having 
 an inner mullion connected by 
 through stone's. They are widely 
 splayed inwards, and separated by 
 a group of vaulting shafts. One or both of these windows 
 contained stained glass, with the history of the life and 
 miracles of S. Cuthbert. As seen at present, they con- 
 tain tracery of the Perpendicular period, a restoration of 
 that inserted by Prior Wessington. Each window is of 
 two lights, crossed by a transom. Entry to the nine altars 
 was provided for, as well as from the choir and aisles, by 
 two cioors on the western side of its north and south walls. 
 The northern doorway is now walled up. They enter through 
 the wall arcade. The writer "of the "Rites of Durham" say? 
 
 A Capital, Galilee Chapel. 
 Drawn by J. E. Bygate. 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 69 
 
 the north door was made in order to bring in the body of 
 Bishop Anthony Bek, who is buried in the chapel. The archi- 
 tectural features of the doorway would, however, seem to con- 
 tradict this theory, and there is little room to doubt that both 
 north and south doorways formed part of the original design of 
 the structure. 
 
 Before leaving this interesting portion of the building we 
 must direct our attention to its most important contents, the 
 Tomb of S. Cuthbert. This, as at present to be seen, is a 
 great oblong platform, thirty-seven feet long by twenty-three 
 feet wide, and its upper surface or floor six feet above the floor 
 of the chapel. Beneath a slab in the centre the bones of 
 the patron saint rest. The shrine of S. Cuthbert at 
 one time stood upon this platform, but of that no vestige, 
 remains. 
 
 The floor of the platform is reached by two doors through 
 the Neville screen in the choir, and by a small stairway from 
 the south aisle. The wanderings of the monks of Lindisfarne 
 with the body of their saint, their many difificulties and trials, 
 and their ultimate settlement at Dunholme or Durham, have 
 already been described. The shrine was eventually set up in 
 its present position by Bishop Carileph, in 1104, when he 
 brought it from the cloister garth from the tomb he had there 
 set up for its temporary reception, until his church was suffi- 
 ciently advanced to permit of its removal thither. It was visited 
 by large numbers of pilgrims, and many important personages 
 were among them. Of these may be mentioned William the 
 Conqueror, Henry III. (1255), Edward II. (1322), and Henry 
 VI. (1448). The shrine was destroyed soon after the surrender 
 of the monastery to the Crown, in 1540, when the body was 
 buried beneath the place where its former receptacle had stood. 
 There have since this time been traditions that the exact place of 
 the burial was secret, and known only, according to one account, 
 to three Benedictine monks, who each handed the secret down 
 to a successor. The other tradition places the knowledge of 
 the place of burial in the hands of the Roman Catholic bishops 
 of the Northern Province. One of these traditions was made 
 public in the year 1867, and gave the place of interment as 
 being under the second and third steps leading to the tower 
 from the south transept. This place was excavated and 
 examined, but no trace of any burial could be found there. It 
 
•JO DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 is to these traditions that Scotf refers, in Marmion, in the 
 following lines : — 
 
 " Chester-le-Street, and Ripon saw 
 His holy corpse, ere Wardilaw 
 
 Hailed him with joy and fear ; 
 And after many wanderings past. 
 He chose his lordly seat at last, 
 Where his cathedral, huge and vast, 
 
 Looks down upon the Wear. 
 There deep in Durham's Gothic shade 
 His relics are in secret laid ; 
 
 But none may know the place, 
 Save of his holiest servants three. 
 Deep sworn to solemn secrecy. 
 
 Who share that wondrous grace.'' 
 
 In May 1827 the grave in the Nine Altars Chapel was 
 opened in the presence of two of the church dignitaries and 
 other persons. Dr Raine, who was also present, has left a 
 careful account of the discoveries then made.* The outer coffin, 
 that made in 1542, was first removed, revealing a second and 
 much decayed coffin and many bones. After the removal 
 of these relics the lid of a third oak coffin was revealed, in 
 a very advanced state of decay. This innermost coffin was 
 covered over its entire surface with carvings of human figures, 
 the heads surrounded by a nimbus. When this coffin was 
 removed the skeleton was exposed to view, wrapped in cover- 
 ings, the outer of which had been of linen. The robes beneath 
 were much decayed, and only portions of them could be pre- 
 served. On the breast of the body, among the robes, a comb 
 was found, answering exactly to that described by Reginald 
 in 1 104. Among the most interesting of the finds were a stole 
 and maniple. 
 
 The stole is of very early date, and is of needlework in 
 colours and gold. The centre design is a quatrefoil, inside 
 which is a lamb with nimbus, and the letters AGNV DI. 
 On either- side are figures of Old Testament prophets, with 
 their names. Near the ends the embroidery occurs on both 
 sides of the stole, on the back of one of which among foliage 
 is the inscription ^LFFL^D FIERI PRECEPIT, which is 
 continued on the back of the opposite end, thus — PIO 
 EPISCOPO FRIDESTANO. The translation of this inscrip- 
 
 * Raine. S. Cuthbert 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 71 
 
 tion is to the effect that Aelfled commanded the stole to be 
 made for the pious Bishop Frithestan. The maniple is of a 
 similar character, and also bears ornament, figures, and inscrip- 
 tions.* Frithestan was made Bishop of Winchester in 905. 
 Aelfled, who was Queen of Eadward, the son and successor of 
 Alfred, died in 916. It was therefore during these ten years 
 that she caused this stole and maniple to be made for the 
 Bishop Frithestan. It is recorded that the son and successor 
 of Eadward, by name Athelstari, when on a journey in the 
 north visited Chester-le-Street and the shrine of S. Cuthbert, 
 which was then at that place. Among other presents he left 
 as offerings' a stole and maniple, and a girdle and two bracelets 
 of-gold. It is a curious fact that a girdle and two gold brace-, 
 lets w^re found along with the stole and maniple in the grave, 
 in 1827, and leaves very little doubt that they are the ones 
 mentioned above. The bones of the saint were quite" intact, 
 and none were missing. They were, with the other relicsj 
 placed in a new cofifin, and the grave re-covered. Some por- 
 tions of the inner coffin, with the stole, two maniples, the girdle 
 and bracelets and fragments of the robes are now carefully pre- 
 served in the Dean and Chapter Library. A large gold cross 
 found among the robes, decorated with garnets, and of work- 
 manship of the time of S. Cuthbert is also preserved in the 
 library. These discoveries seem to speak for themselves, and 
 to leave very little room for doubt that the body exhumed and 
 examined in 1827 was really that of the patron saint of the 
 church. 
 
 There were also found in the grave bones of infants, 
 supposed to be relics of the Holy Innocents, and a skull, most 
 probably that of S. Oswald, which was known to have been 
 placed in the coffin of S. Cuthbert. 
 
 Two smooth grooves may be observed on the platform, 
 which are said to have been worn into the stone by the knees 
 or feet of generations of pilgrims visiting the shrine. 
 
 There are several other tombs and monuments in this 
 chapel, chiefly wall tablets of not exceptional interest. At the 
 north end, however, is a colossal statue of the last of the prince 
 bishopSj Bishop van Mildert, -(vho died in 1836. The 
 monument is of white marble, the figure seated on a throne 
 
 * Photographs, coloured by the late J. I. Williamson, are exhibited in 
 the South Kensington Museum. 
 
72 
 
 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 and holding a book. It was erected by public subscription, 
 the sculptor being John Gibson, R.A. Near this monument 
 is a blue slab covering the remains of Bishop Anthony Bek, 
 patriarch of Jerusalem, who died in 1 310. It was to bring in 
 the body of this bishop that some writers have thought the 
 north doorway of the Nine Altars Chapel was constructed. 
 This is, as we have seen already, extremely improbable. 
 
 The student of architecture will find very much to interest 
 
 Pkotochram Co. Ltd,^ Phato.l 
 
 THE GALILEE CHAPEL.' 
 
 him in this Chapel of the Nine Altars. The beautiful sculpture 
 and variety in the capitals of the shafts of wall arcading, not to 
 mention the rich carving of the vaulting bosses and capitals of 
 the vaulting shafts, will well repay his earnest study. 
 
 The Galilee. or Lady Chapel is situated at the west 
 end of the nave. It is well known that for some reason 
 women were not allowed to enter any church where S. 
 Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church dedicated to him. 
 At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for them, and 
 at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose. 
 It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule, 
 but there is no proof that he ever issued such a command. 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 
 
 1Z 
 
 The Venerable Bede makes no mention of any special feeling 
 of antipathy to women on the part of the saint. Bede was 
 
 iSJa,£^sa 
 
 PAINTINGS ON EAST WALL OF THE GALILEE CHAPEL. 
 
 contemporary with, and survived S. Cuthbert forty-eight years. 
 Whatever may have been the origin of the practice, it is 
 certain that in later times women were jealously excluded from 
 
74 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 the churches of S. Cuthbert, and to this circumstance we owe, 
 in the chapel under our consideration, the most beautiful and 
 perfect example of Transitional Norman architecture existing 
 in England. 
 
 Let us recall briefly the circumstances attending its erection. 
 Hugh Pudsey, who occupied the episcopal throne, 1153 to 
 119s, commenced to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of 
 the church. The work had not gone far before accidents 
 happened, and cracks and fissures appeared in the walls, which 
 the builder thought " gave manifest indication that it was not 
 acceptable to God and His servant S. Cuthbert." * The 
 work was therefore abandoned, and another chapel was com- 
 menced at the west end of the church, " into which women 
 might lawfully enter, so that they who had not bodily access 
 to the secret things of the holy place, might have some solace 
 from the contemplation of them " (Geoffrey de Coldinghani). 
 Pudsey caused to be moved here the marble shafts and bases 
 he had previously brought from " beyond the sea," and 
 intended to be used in the construction of his chapel at the 
 east end. Entering the chapel by the steps leading from the 
 Norman nave, the visitor is at once impressed with the lightness 
 and delicacy of the work before him, as compared with the 
 massive grandeur of the Norman cathedral behind. Here we 
 have, in fact, one of the latest uses of the round arch influenced 
 by the rapidly developing Early English Gothic. In plan the 
 chapel consists of a nave with double aisles, which perhaps 
 might be more properly called five aisles. These are divided 
 by arcades, eaeh~of-which^ is_ of four bays. These arches and 
 the columns which support them are the chief beauty anS' 
 characteristic of the chapeL The arches are semi-circular, of 
 one order, with three -lines of^^chevron, one on each face, and^ 
 one on the soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are 
 light and graceful and carved with a volute, and the columns 
 clusters of marble and freestone shafts. The arches, however, 
 rest on the marble columns, which are, no doubt, those 
 previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been 
 coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen. 
 The stone shafts, which alternate with those of marble, do not 
 carry any of the weight of the arch, and are, undoubtedly, an 
 addition, probably in the time of Cardinal Langley, when they 
 * Geoffrey de Coldingham. 
 
S. h. t>Oias ijy Lv 
 
 DETAIL OF THE GALILEE CHAPEL. 
 
TPIE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 77 
 
 must have been added, with a view to improving the appear- 
 ance. The dimensions of the chapel are forty-seven feet from 
 east to west, and seventy-six feet from north to south. The 
 existing roof and the three perpendicular windows on the west 
 end are also additions by Cardinal Langley. On the walls 
 above what were once the altars of the Virgin and Our Lady 
 of Pity, remains of fresco painting may be noticed, all that 
 remains of what has evidently been beautiful work. These 
 were only brought to light by the removal of successive coats 
 of whitewash with which they had been covered. 
 
 When the Galilee was erected, access from the church was 
 by the great west door of the cathedral. This was, however, 
 closed up by Cardinal Langley, who constructed the two 
 doorways at the end of the aisles by which the chapel is now 
 entered. Those portions of the Norman wall arcading, which 
 had to be removed by reason of the breaking through of the 
 new doorways, were used to fill up the lower part of the great 
 west door. The latter was again removed in 1846, when the 
 west doorway was re-opened. Langley's two doorways have 
 four centred arches enclosed beneath a square label moulding, 
 with shields bearing the Cardinal's coat-of-arms in each 
 spandrel. To Langley also may be attributed the five massive 
 buttresses on the exterior of the western wall of the chapel, 
 which partly cover the arcading and panelling with which it 
 was decorated. In adding the new roof Langley raised the 
 walls above the arches to carry it, giving a somewhat peculiar 
 effect to the interior. The original roof lines can still be made 
 out on the west wall. Of the contents of the chapel remaining, 
 perhaps the most interesting to the visitor is the grave-and-site . 
 of the shrine of the Venerable Bede'.'" The shrine, like that of 
 S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the stone slab on 
 which it once stood, and which bears the inscription (placed 
 there in 1831) : 
 
 ' ' Hac sunt in Fossa 
 
 Bsedje Venerabilis Ossa. " 
 
 This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, 
 whom, as we have said, he survived forty-eight years. His 
 holiness and piety, together with his great learning, earned for 
 him the title Venerable, and after his death, in 735, his bones 
 were enshrined. Of his parentage we know nothing, except 
 
78 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 that, from his own writings, he was born in the territory of the 
 Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being 
 educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years 
 old he moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at 
 Jarrow. He had able and learned teachers in Benedict Biscop 
 and Ceolfrid, and appears to have turned his advantages to the 
 best account. Deacon at nineteen, and priest at twenty-nine 
 years of age, he led a holy and studious life. After his 
 ordination he wrote his "Commentaries on the Scriptures," and 
 writings on all the known sciences — geography, arithmetic, and 
 astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his 
 " Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation," to which we 
 owe all our knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into 
 Great Britain, and the early history of the English Church. 
 It is dedicated to King Ceolwulf. His information was 
 collected from various sources — by letter as to Canterbury, by 
 communication with bishops and priors as to England 
 generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent 
 tradition as to Northumbria. He lived most of his long life 
 between the monasteries of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and 
 was buried at the latter. In the year 1022 his remains were 
 secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the most 
 unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a 
 portion of them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert. 
 From here they were removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed 
 in the newly-erected Galilee Chapel, where he caused them to 
 be enclosed in a magnificent shrine. "There, in a silver 
 casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of Venerable Bede, 
 and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over it." * 'When 
 the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery, 
 in 1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied, 
 where they remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that 
 year they were exhumed and examined, and, after being 
 enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were replaced in the tomb, with 
 a parchment giving full details of the exhumation. Some 
 coins and a ring which were found at this time are preserved 
 in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously 
 quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb. 
 
 In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer, 
 Cardinal Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the 
 * " Rites of Durham." 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 79 
 
 principal altar. On its head may be seen three shields bearing 
 the arms of the cardinal. 
 
 Four of the western windows of the chapel originally con- 
 tained beautiful stained glass, a most careful description of 
 which may be found in the "Rites of Durham." 
 
 Why this chapel has always been known as the " Galilee " 
 Chapel has been the subject of much discussion and con- 
 jecture, and is still a matter of uncertainty. That it was 
 erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however, be no doubt. 
 In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to 
 the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will 
 notice a dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman 
 was allowed to pass eastward. 
 
 Monuments in the Nave and Transepts;— The church 
 of Durham is not rich in tombs and monuments to the dead. 
 This is to be accounted for partly by the fact that for some 
 centuries the Bishops of the diocese were interred in the 
 chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have been lost or 
 destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is 
 that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until 
 1367, when Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for 
 himself and his wife, the Lady Alice de Neville, who was 
 buried in 1374. This monument occupies the third sub-bay 
 from the east, on the south side of the nave. It is an altar 
 tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation 
 during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient 
 remains to enable us to see that it was once a well-designed 
 and noble monument. Its mouldings are bold, and there are 
 indications of the places where figures were once attached to 
 the sides. The recumbent effigies of the • noble lord and his 
 wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however, hopelessly smashed. 
 It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this honour 
 for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of 
 Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay 
 westward is the tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in 
 1386. This is also an altar tomb, and has suffered severely, 
 though it remains in a better state of preservation than 
 the one just described. Its sides each have six niches, with 
 elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures, while 
 the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving 
 of the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the 
 
DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 niches are two square panels 
 with trefoiled heads, each panel 
 bearing a shield with the arms 
 of Neville and Percy. Both 
 above and below the niches 
 much delicate carving may be 
 noticed. Surmounting all are 
 the broken effigies of Lord John 
 and his wife, who was the 
 daughter of Lord Henry Percy, 
 the well-known Hotspur. All 
 the figures on this tomb, includ- 
 ing the recumbent figures, are 
 headless, but sufficient remains 
 to show that they were of great 
 excellence. Remains of colour- 
 ing and gilding can also be 
 distinguished in places on the 
 monument. 
 
 Close to this is the slab and 
 matrix of a brass to Robert 
 Neville, who was bishop of the 
 diocese from 1438 to 1457. 
 The brass has all been removed, 
 but the matrix shows a dignified 
 figure of the bishop holding a 
 crozier and a scroll, while an 
 inscription formerly existed on a 
 plate at his feet. Bishop Neville 
 was known for his generous 
 qualities, as well as for his high 
 descent. 
 
 In the western wall, on its 
 south side, near to the entrance 
 to the Galilee, is a mural tablet 
 to a former Prebendary in the 
 cathedral, and a well-known 
 antiquary, Sir George Wheler, 
 who died in the latter part of 
 the seventeenth century. On 
 the northern side is a slab to 
 
 S. B. Solas jy- Co., Plloto.\ 
 
 THE FONT AND COVER. 
 
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH 8i 
 
 the memory of Captain R. M. Hunter, who was killed while 
 charging a Sikh battery at Ferozeshah. 
 
 Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern 
 altar tomb to a former headmaster of Durham Grammar 
 School, the Rev. James Britton, D.D., erected by his pupils. 
 It is surmounted by a reclining figure of Dr Britton, in academic 
 robes, reading a book. 
 
 In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to 
 the memory of Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791 
 to 1826, dying at the advanced age of 92 years, beloved 
 by all. He was a great prelate, and used his immense powers 
 as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The kneeling figure, with 
 bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an attitude 
 of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On 
 the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory 
 of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the 
 Durha,m Light Infantry who were slain or died during the 
 Crimean War. 
 
 Near to this is a recently inserted brass to the memory of the 
 officers and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in 
 Egypt and the Soudan. 
 
 In the north transept we may give some attention to a 
 monument to the Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of 
 Durham School. It was erected to his memory by his pupils. 
 The monument was designed by Rickman, and is in the style 
 known as Decorated Gothic. 
 
 The Font stands at the west end of the nave. It is 
 a comparatively modern work, covered by a tall wooden 
 canopy which was erected by Bishop Cosin in 1663. The 
 original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish prisoners 
 in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop 
 Cbsin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington 
 Church, where it is now in use, its place being filled by the 
 present modern one. It is designed in the Norman style, 
 and is square, supported on short columns. The sides are 
 carved with medallions, copied from illuminated MSS., which 
 represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover 
 deserves rttention as a specimen of the woodwork of the 
 seventeenth century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic 
 mixture of Classic and Gothic forms and details. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 HISTORY OF THE SEE 
 
 The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been 
 referred, to in order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. 
 We have seen how the bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled 
 and wandered with the relics of their beloved S. Cuthbert, 
 eventually settling at Chester-le-Street, until, in the year 990, 
 Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again fled southward to 
 Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak 
 monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no 
 determined opposition, continually made piratical incursions, 
 and eventually, through the treachery of three chieftains, the 
 Castle of Bamburgh fell into their hands. After an interval of 
 three or four months peace was made with the invaders, and 
 Aldhun and his monks ventured to return towards Chester-le- 
 Street. It was during this journey, at a place called Wredelau, 
 that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents 
 previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the 
 Bishopric of Durham. 
 
 Aldhun may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham. 
 He held the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018. 
 Aldhun it was who built the first or White Church, now 
 destroyed. It is extremely probable that some of the stones of 
 this church were used in the foundations of Carileph's choir 
 and apses. 
 
 After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three 
 years, when he was succeeded by 
 
 Edmund (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could 
 not agree as to who should succeed Aldhun, when one 
 day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a joke, "Why not 
 appoint me?" Being a pious and a faithful man, they 
 took him at his word, and, after much persuasion and 
 fasting and prayer, he was consecrated. The choice was a 
 
 82 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE 83 
 
 ■ good one. Edmund was an energetic and beloved prelate. 
 He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most important 
 events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria 
 by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but 
 was beaten off, with great slaughter, and the heads of many of 
 his men were exposed in the market-place. 
 
 Egelric (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an 
 alien, and made himself obnoxious to the clergy and people. 
 With the intention of rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden 
 church at Chester-le-Street, which had been the seat of the 
 bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A large quantity 
 of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this 
 Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peter- 
 borough, where he soon followed it. Before resigning the see 
 of Durham, however, he secured the appointment of his 
 brother to the bishopric. Some years later William the 
 Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in the 
 matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at West- 
 minster, where he died in 1072. 
 
 Egelwin (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of 
 his brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and 
 Morcar, and, like his predecessor, died in prison. He was the 
 last of the Saxon bishops. 
 
 Walcher (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in 
 great disorder and made many changes. He filled most of 
 the sees by the appointment of Norman bishops. To Durham 
 he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of gentle disposi- 
 tion, but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of his 
 own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by 
 the people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At 
 length a noble, named Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with 
 them, and in their rage they had him assassinated. The 
 people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied any know- 
 ledge of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here 
 a tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, "Good rede, 
 short rede, slay ye the bishop," and eventually setting 
 fire to the church. The bishop was eventually reduced 
 to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the 
 church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with 
 his robe, went out. He was immediately slain on the 
 threshold, and dreadfully mutilated. His body was removed 
 
84 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards to Durham, where 
 he was buried. 
 
 William of S. Carileph (1080-1096) was next 
 appointed bishop. He was a man of great attainments. To 
 him we owe the founding of the present cathedral. Carileph 
 also made an important change, by the removal from Durham 
 of the secular clergy, and their replacement by Benedictine 
 monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The founda- 
 tions of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the 
 Bishop and Prior Turgot being present. He did not live to 
 see it very far advanced, being taken ill at Windsor. He 
 died about Christmas 1096. 
 
 Ranulph Flambard (1099-1 128). — The see was kept 
 vacant for three years by William Rufus, when he appointed 
 Flambard, a great builder. He built the nave and aisles, the^ 
 west doorway and lower part of the western towers, and 
 vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate Bridge over 
 the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church, 
 Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the 
 Tweed. 
 
 Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140) was his successor. His 
 episcopate was much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The 
 chapter-house was finished during his time of office. 
 
 William de S. Barbara (1143-1152) was next 
 appointed. Extraordinary events marked his election. William 
 Cumin, chancellor of the Scottish king, attempted to take the 
 bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far as to capture the 
 castle with the aid of the Scots.' The rightful bishop was not 
 able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election. 
 Cumin submitted in 1144. 
 
 Hugh Pudsey (1153-1195) now succeeded to the 
 bishopric at the age of twenty-five. He bought for life the 
 earldom of Northumberland and the manor of Sadberg. In 
 1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the Saracens 
 spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to 
 accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out ships' and 
 galleys in a most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for 
 himself of solid silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked 
 in the crusade, however. The king died, and Richard his 
 son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop Pudsey and 
 Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern and- 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE 87 
 
 southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two 
 quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Long- 
 champ, and committed to the Tower. He soon obtained his 
 release^ but was compelled to resign the earldom of Nor- 
 thumberland. In 119s he undertook a journey to London 
 to see the king, and endeavour to obtain restitution of his 
 honours and possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the 
 way, at Howden. His work in the cathedral we have seen. 
 He also built the great hall of the castle, most of the beautiful 
 Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and the Elvet Bridge over 
 the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at Sherburn, 
 near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a 
 visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second 
 only to the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful 
 manner the rapid development of the change which was taking 
 place in architectural style during Pudsey's time. 
 
 Philip de Pictavia (1197-1208), elected at the urgent 
 request of the king. He was continually at loggerheads with 
 his clergy. He supported King John against the Pope, and 
 was for this excommunicated; died in 1208, and was buried 
 in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is said to have had the 
 permission of the king to coin money at Durham. 
 
 Richard de Marisco (i2i7-r226) was elected after an 
 interval of nearly ten years. The feud with the monks con- 
 tinued during his episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church 
 of Durham should have no peace while he, lived ; threatened 
 that if a monk should show himself beyond his cloister he 
 should lose his head ; and once, when his servants had beaten 
 a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a 
 pity they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in 
 1226. 
 
 Richard le Poore (1229-1237), who was the next bishop, 
 elected after the see had been vacant two years and four 
 months, was translated from Salisbury, where he had com- 
 menced building the new cathedral. He ended the dispute 
 between the monks and the Bishop of Durham by an agree- 
 ment known as " Le Convenit." 
 
 Nicholas de Farnham (i 241-1248) became bishop after 
 a three years' dispute with the king. He resigned in 1248. 
 
 Walter de Kirkham (i 249-1 260), Dean of York, was 
 next elected. 
 
88 
 
 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 Robert de Stitchill (1261-1274), Prior of Finchale, suc- 
 ceeded him. Dissensions again arose between the bishop and 
 the monks. He died on his return from France, where he 
 had attended a council at Lyops. 
 He was buried in a monastery in 
 France, but his heart was brought to 
 Durham, and buried in the chapter- 
 house. 
 
 Robert de Insula (1274-1283), 
 a native of Holy Island, as his name 
 suggests, was then elected bishop. 
 His tenure of ofifice was peaceful. 
 
 Anthony Bek (1283-1310). The 
 next bishop was of noble birth, the 
 son of Walter Bek, Baron of Eresby, 
 in Lincolnshire. He took part with 
 Edward I. in his expedition to Scot- 
 land, and, being very wealthy, was of 
 great assistance to the king. His 
 following consisted of twenty - six 
 standard bearers, one hundred and 
 forty knights, and an army of five 
 thousand foot and five hundred horse. 
 He was employed by the king, with 
 success, in many important State 
 matters. In the year 1300 trouble 
 again arose with the monks. Some 
 of them being dissatisfied with the 
 Prior Hotoun, the bishop proposed 
 to hold a visitation. The prior re- 
 fusing to admit him unless he came 
 unattended, the bishop deposed and 
 excommunicated him. The convent 
 took sides, some with the bishop and 
 some with the prior, and it was only 
 on the interference of the king that a partial peace was restored. 
 The quarrel soon reopened. Some men made a complaint 
 against the bishop. He had compelled them to take arms under 
 him in the Scottish war, and had imprisoned some who had 
 returned without leave. The barons upheld the men, and it 
 led to them taking sides with Prior Hotoun in his dispute. 
 
 Stone Coffin Lid. 
 
 (From Boutell's "Christian 
 Monuments," 1854.) 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE 89 
 
 The bishop, calling the monks together, ordered them to elect 
 a new prior, which they promptly refused to do. On this the 
 bishop appointed Henry de Luceby of Holy Island to be prior 
 of Durham, and brought men from Weardale and Tynedale to 
 expel the old prior. They laid siege to the convent, and for 
 three days Prior Hotoun and forty-six monks were shut up 
 with only six loaves and sixteen herrings. They continued 
 the services however. On the third day a Tynedale man was 
 sent to pull the prior out of his stall, but was so awed by his 
 venerable appearance that he dared not touch him. A monk 
 on the bishop's side, however, did the work. Prior Luceby 
 was installed, and Prior Richard seized and imprisoned. He 
 soon escaped, however, and carried his complaint before 
 Parliament, and afterwards to the Pope, Boniface VIII. The 
 Pope decided in his favour, and Hotoun returned to Durham, 
 and Luceby and his friends were obliged to go, though they 
 tried, when doing so, to carry off some silver plate and other 
 valuables. Bek continued in great splendour until his death 
 in 1310. When he died he was king of the Isle of Man, 
 Patriarch of Jerusalem, Bishop of Durham, and Prince 
 Palatine. 
 
 Richard de Kellaw (1311-1316), formerly a monk of 
 Durham, succeeded Bek. He was a good and learned man, 
 and lived in harmony with the monks. 
 
 Louis de Beaumont (1318-1333) was next appointed 
 bishop, after great competition and intrigue. He was chosen 
 in opposition to the wishes of the chapter, who had elected 
 Stamford, Prior of Finchale, to succeed Kellaw. On his way 
 to Durham for consecration and enthronement, accompanied 
 by two cardinals and a large retinue, he was waylaid at 
 Rushyford by a band of rufifians under Gilbert Middleton. 
 They plundered the cardinals, but carried the bishop a 
 prisoner to Mitford Castle. His release was only secured 
 on payment by the monastery of a heavy ransom. He was an 
 ignorant man, and so innocent of Latin that he could not iread 
 his profession of obedience, being continually prompted. 
 Later, at an ordination, he stumbled over the words "in 
 osnigmate," and cried in French, "Far Seynt Lewis, il ne fuit 
 pas curtays qui cest parole id escrit." " By Saint Lewis he was 
 no gentleman who wrote this word." 
 
 Richard de Bury (1333-1345),. who succeeded, was a 
 
go DURHAM. CATHEDRAL 
 
 great scholar, tutor to Edward HI., and author of " Philo- 
 biblon," a book still extant. He was a good man, and very 
 kind to the poor. 
 
 Thomas de Hatfield (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek, 
 a warrior ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty 
 archers to the siege of Calais. His episcopate was notable for 
 the wars with the Scots, and the great victory obtained over 
 them, with the capture of King David and many nobles, at 
 Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots were 
 slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the 
 sacred banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to 
 a place near the battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for 
 success. A hymn of thanksgiving was appointed to be sung 
 on the top of the cathedral tower on each anniversary of the 
 battle. This custom is still carried out, though the day has 
 been changed to the twenty-ninth of May. Hatfield was a 
 liberal supporter of Durham College at Oxford. He erected 
 his own tomb in the choir of the cathedral, in which he was 
 afterwards buried. 
 
 John Fordham (1381-1388), secretary to Richard II., and 
 Canon of York, was next elected. Suspected of giving bad 
 advice to the king, he was compelled to resign, but was given 
 the inferior bishopric of Ely, where he lived to extreme old age, 
 dying in 1425. 
 
 Walter de Skirlaw (1388-1405), translated from Bath 
 and Wells, was a munificent prelate. He built bridges at 
 Shincliffe, Bishop Auckland, and Yarm ; a refuge tower, a 
 beautiful chapter-house (now in ruins) at Howden ; and was a 
 large contributor to the expense of building the central tower 
 of York Cathedral. His work in the building of the cloisters 
 of Durham has already been referred to. 
 
 Thomas Langley (1406-1437) succeeded. He was 
 Chancellor of England, Dean of York, and in 141 1 was made 
 a cardinal. He occupied the see during part of the reign of 
 Henry IV., the whole of that of Henry V., and fifteen years of 
 that of Henry VI. He founded two schools on the Palace 
 Green at Durham, and in his will left collections of books 
 to many colleges. 
 
 Robert Neville (1437-1457), son of the Earl of West- 
 moreland and his wife Joan, who was a daughter of John 
 of Gaunt. He was therefore uncle of the Earl of Warwick, 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE 91 
 
 the " king-maker " of Richard III. and of Edward IV. He 
 had a peaceful episcopate of nineteen years, and was buried in 
 the cathedral, in the south aisle near his ancestors. 
 
 Laurance Booth (1457-1476), Canon of York and 
 Lichfield, Archdeacon of Richmond, and Dean of S. Paul's, 
 was the next bishop. He was a supporter of the House of 
 Lancaster. He was translated to the archbishopric of York 
 in 1476, the first of the bishops of Durham who was raised to 
 that dignity. 
 
 William Dudley (1476-1483), Dean of Windsor, succeeded 
 him. 
 
 John Sherwood (1483- 1494), who was appointed next, 
 was a learned man, and made a large collection of Greek 
 manuscripts. He died in Rome in 1494. 
 
 Richard Fox (i 494-1 501) was translated from Bath and 
 Wells after the see had remained vacant for eleven months. 
 Nothing of particular moment occurred during his episcopate. 
 He was an early patron and helper of Wolsey, and lived to 
 regret having assisted him. He made alterations in the castle 
 at Durham. He was translated to the see of Winchester in 
 1501, and died in 1528. 
 
 William Sinews or Sever (1502-1505), translated from 
 Carlisle. He is said to have been the son of a sieve-maker at 
 Shinclifie, near Durham. 
 
 Christopher Bainbridge (1507-1508), Dean of York, 
 was next elected, and after an episcopate of one year was 
 translated to York. Iri 1511 he was sent to Rome as 
 ambassador by Henry VIII., and while there was created 
 cardinal. He died in Rome, poisoned by a servant whom 
 he had struck in anger. 
 
 Thomas Ruthall (1509-1522), Dean of Salisbury, was 
 the next bishop. He was immensely wealthy, and his love 
 of money brought him into disgrace. King Henry com- 
 manded him to draw up an account of the lands and 
 revenues of the Crown. The bishop, in error, sent to the 
 king the wrong book, in which was set^ forth an account of 
 his own possessions. The king, though tampered with by 
 Wolsey, made no use of the knowledge thus obtained. But 
 the affair rankled in the mind of the bishop, and is said to 
 have hastened his death. 
 
 Thomas Wolsey (152 2- 152 8) was appointed to succeed 
 
92 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 him. The famous cardinal held the see for six years, as 
 well as that of York. During the whole of his episcopate 
 he never visited Durham, and in 1528 he resigned it for 
 the see of Winchester. 
 
 Cuthbert Tunstall (1530-1559) was translated from 
 London by a Papal Bull, the last used for this purpose. 
 Tunstall was a remarkable man, and he occupied the see 
 during an important period of Church history, the Reforma- 
 tion, all the stages of which he saw. During his episcopacy, 
 the great privileges of the bishops of Durham as Princes 
 Palatine were very much curtailed. In 1526, while Tunstall 
 was Bishop of London, the English translation of the New 
 Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing great alarm among 
 the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to this 
 is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry 
 as head of the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle 
 and preached in its favour. The monastery of Durham was 
 suppressed in 1 540, and a dean and twelve canons appointed. 
 Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop Tunstall 
 was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on 
 a charge of having encouraged rebellion in the north. On 
 the accession of Mary to the throne he was released and 
 restored, but there would seem to be no grounds for sup- 
 posing that he took any part in the cruelties practised during 
 her reign. When Elizabeth became queen, Tunstall refused 
 to take the oath, and was again deprived of his see, and, 
 being now an old man, was committed to the custody of 
 his friend Archbishop Parker (Canterbury), with whom he 
 lived till his death in 1559. He was a scholarly prelate, 
 of a kindly nature, and was held in universal esteem. 
 
 James Pilkington (1560-1575) left the buildings of the 
 see in a ruinous condition. 
 
 Richard Barnes (1575-1587), translated from Carlisle. 
 He is said to have been removed to Durham in order to 
 spy upon the correspondence and messengers of the un- 
 fortunate Mary Queen of Scots. 
 
 Matthew Hutton (1589-1594), Dean of York, was the 
 next bishop. A man of great learning, and considered one 
 of the best preachers of his day. He was translated to York 
 in 1594. 
 
 Tobias Matthew (1595-1606), Dean of Durham, was his 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE 93 
 
 successor. He was also a gre^t preacher, and was celebrated 
 for his wit. Pie was translated to York. 
 
 William James (1606-1617), Dean of Durham, was next 
 elected. 
 
 Richard Neile (1617-1627) was translated from Lincoln. 
 He was remarkable as being the only bishop who held six 
 sees successively — viz. 1608, Rochester; 16 10, Lichfield; 
 1613, Lincoln; 1617, Durham; 1627, Winchester ; and 1631, 
 Archbishop of York. He did much to help forward men 
 of learning and ability by giving them preferment in his see, 
 and reserving apartments for their use in Durham House, 
 London, which became known as Durham College. He 
 spent large sums of money on repairs to the buildings at 
 Durham. 
 
 George Monteigne (1628), Bishop of London, only 
 held the see of Durham for three months, when he was 
 translated to York. 
 
 John Howson (1628-1631), Bishop of Oxford, held the 
 see for two years, and died in 163 1. 
 
 Thomas Morton (1632-1659), translated from Lichfield. 
 The North of England was much disturbed in 1640 by the 
 invasion of the Scots, and Bishop Morton fled — first to 
 Stockton, afterwards to York — and never returned to his 
 diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the 
 district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as ^850 a 
 day being demanded. In 1646, Episcopacy was abolished, and 
 the estates of the bishops ordered to be sold. Thus we find 
 at Durham the castle sold to the Mayor of London for ^^1267 
 and Durham, Borough, and Framwellgate disposed of to 
 the Corporation for ;j£^20o. The bishop lived a life of suffer- 
 ing in London, cared for by. his friends, till his death in' 
 1659, at the age of ninety-four. During his episcopate, in 
 1656, Oliver Cromwell arranged for the founding of a college 
 in Durham, but his death prevented him carrying out his ' 
 scheme. His son, however, , did so, and it flourished until 
 the Restoration, which, by giving back property to its rightful 
 owners, put an end to its existence. 
 
 John Cosin (1660-1671), Canon of Durham, was the first, 
 
 . bishop after the Restoration. He was a most munificent 
 
 prelate, leaving many charitable bequests. He spent large 
 
 sums in the restoration of the cathedral and castle and the 
 
94 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 palace at Bishop Auckland. He built a hospital for eight 
 poor people, and erected a library on the palace green. 
 
 Nathaniel Crewe (1642-1722), translated from Oxford. 
 He was a strong supporter of King James II., but afterwards 
 took the oath of allegiance to William and Mary. He was 
 noted for his charity and munificence, and left large sums to 
 the poor, and in scholarships tenable by natives of Durham. 
 
 William Talbot (1722-1730), translated from Salisbury. 
 
 Edward Chandler (i 730-1 750), Bishop of Lichfield, was 
 next elected. He gave ;!f 2000 to be laid out for the benefit 
 of the widows of clergymen of his diocese. 
 
 Joseph Butler (1750-1752) was translated from Bristol. 
 He is best known as the author of "The Analogy of Religion, 
 Natural and Revealed." 
 
 Richard Trevor (1752-1771), Bishop of S. David's, a 
 learned, pious, and unostentatious man. He left ;^2oo in his 
 will to the poor of Durham and Auckland. 
 
 John Egerton (17 71-1787), Bishop of Lichfield, was next 
 elected. He married the daughter of Henry, Duke of Kent, 
 and his eldest son afterwards became Earl of Bridgewater. 
 
 Thomas Thurlow (1787-1791) was translated to Durham 
 from Lincoln. He was brother of the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 Shute Harrington (1791-1826) was the next bishop, 
 having previously held the sees of Llandaff and Salisbury. A 
 most beneficent prelate ; his charities, especially those for the 
 founding of schools and augmentation of poor livings, were 
 magnificent. During his episcopacy, external repairs to the 
 cathedral having become absolutely necessary, James Wyatt, 
 who had already done such mischief at Salisbury, was given 
 charge of the work. Then it was that the paring process, 
 spoken of previously, was completed, the chapter-house de- 
 stroyed, and the Galilee Chapel only saved from destruction 
 by the intervention of Dean Cornwallis. Wyatt's other wild 
 schemes, to extend the choir eastwards, to the utter ruin of the 
 Nine Altar Chapel, to remove the beautiful Neville screen, and 
 surmount the central tower of the church by a spire, were 
 happily checked in time, or there is no saying to what 
 extent the building would have been mutilated. Bishop 
 Barrington died in London, in his ninety-third year. 
 
 William Van Mildert (1826-1836), Bishop of Llandaff, 
 succeeded to the see. During his episcopate, many important 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE 95 
 
 changes were made. The Ecclesiastical Commission, ap- 
 pointed in 1833, to consider in what manner the funds of the 
 Church might be made more available for the purposes for 
 which they were intended, decided to give future bishops a 
 fixed yearly payment, and to reduce the number of canons 
 from twelve to six. On the appointment of a new bishop, 
 the Palatinate was to be annexed by the State. Thus Van 
 Mildert was the last Count Palatine. Before these changes 
 came into force, however, the bishop and the dean and 
 chapter founded and endowed the university out of the 
 revenues of the see, for the use of which the bishop gave up 
 the castle. Bishop Van Mildert was a man of great charity, 
 and though his income was immense, he died comparatively 
 poor. He died in February 1836, and was interred in the 
 chapel of the Nine Altars. 
 
 Edward Maltby (1836-1856), his successor, was translated 
 from Chichester, and held the see for twenty years, when, 
 owing to advanced age and increasing infirmity, he resigned 
 in 1856. 
 
 Charles Thomas Longley (1856-1860), first Bishop of 
 Ripon, was next elected. He was a popular and much- 
 beloved prelate. In i860 he was created Archbishop of 
 York, and two years later was translated to Canterbury. 
 
 Hon. Henry Montague Villiers (1860-1861) was trans- 
 lated from Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too 
 short. He died, after much suffering, in 1861. 
 
 Charles Baring (1861-1878), Bishop of Gloucester and 
 Bristol, succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and 
 goodness, he won the affection of all who knew him personally. 
 He was compelled, through illness, to resign the see in 1878, 
 and did not long survive his retirement. 
 
 Joseph Barber Lightfoot (1879-1889) was then elected 
 to the see. A man of scholarly attainments, he is still too 
 well known iand remembered to need any detailed note. He 
 came to Durham pledged to accomplish as soon as possible 
 the division of the diocese, which promise he carried out by 
 restoring the suppressed see of Hexham to Newcastle-on-Tyne. 
 A fine tomb to the memory of Dr Lightfoot has been placed 
 on the north side of the choir of the cathedral, and as a 
 memorial of his episcopate the mutilated chapter-house has 
 been restored. 
 
9-5 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 The present bishop is the Right Rev. Brooke Foss 
 Westcott, D.D. 
 
 In this place may conveniently be given the rough draft of 
 the settlement of the see by King Henry VHI. at the Refor- 
 mation. Although departed from in many instances, it throws 
 a curious light on the king's intentions to keep up some 
 semblance of a conventual institution with an active educational 
 purpose. 
 
 DURESME. 
 
 [Fol. 30.3 Duresme\ 
 cum Cellis. / 
 
 First a provoste of the College . . . . . ccli. 
 
 Item xii prebendaryes and the moste parte of theym preachers vi 
 
 of them 1 markes and vi of them xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. by the 
 
 yere ....... ccclx li. 
 
 Item aReader of humanytie in greke by the yere . . . xxli. 
 
 Item a Reader of dy vynytie in hebrewe by the yere . . . xx li. 
 
 Item a Reader bothe of devynytie and humanytie by the yere . xxli. 
 
 Item a Reader of physyke . . . . . . xx li. 
 
 Item Ix scoUers to be tawghte both gramer and logykft in hebrewe 
 
 greke and lattyn every of them by the yere iii li. vi s. viii d. . cc li. 
 Item XX studyentes in dyvynytie to be founde x att Oxenford, and 
 
 X att Cambryge every of them by the yere x li. . . . cc li. 
 
 Item a Scolmaster for the same ScoUers .... xxli. 
 
 Item an ussher . . . ... . . x li. 
 
 Item viii petycanons to synge and serve in the quere every of them xx 
 
 X li. by the yere ....... iiii H. 
 
 Item X laye men to synge and serve also in the quyre every of 
 
 them by yere vi li. xiii s. iiii d. . . . Ixvili. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 Item x Chorysters every of theym by the yere fyve marks xxxiii li. vi s. viii d. 
 Item a master of the Chylderne . . . . . x li. 
 
 Item a Gospeller . . . . .viii. 
 
 Item a pysteller ... . . . vli. 
 
 Item ii sextens ..... viii. xiii "s. iiii d'. 
 
 Item xii poore men beynge olde servynge men decayed by warres 
 
 or in the Kyngfs servyce every of them vi li. xiii s. iiiid. by 
 
 y^"^^ • ■ ■ ri. , ■ J ,• ■ '-"'vi li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 [Fol. 30. dors.] 
 Item yearly to be distrybuted in almes to poore house-holders 
 
 , . Ixvi li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 Item for yearly reparacions . . . . Ixvi li. xiii s. iiiid. 
 
 Item to be employed yerely m makynge and mendynge of hyghe- 
 
 wayes . . . . . .' Ixvili. xiii s iiiid 
 
 Item to a Steward of the Landes . . . vi li. xiii s iiii d' 
 
 Item to an Audytor . . . . . . v]"' 
 
 Item to ii porters to kepe the gates and shave the Company ' y' 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE " 97 
 
 Item to one cheyf Butler for hys wages and dyete . iiii li. xiii s. iiii'd. 
 Item to an under Butler for hys wages and dyete iii li. vi s. viii d. 
 
 Item one Cheyf Cooke for hys wages and dyete . iiii li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 Item oone Under Coke for hys wages and dyete . iii li. vi s. viii d. 
 
 Item for the provostes expences in receyvyng the Rentes and sur- 
 
 veyeng the landes by yere . . . . . x li. 
 
 Item to a Cato' to bye there dyetes for his wages and dyete and 
 
 makynge hys bockes of reconyngs by the yere . vi li. xiiis. iiiid. 
 
 [Fol. 31.] 
 
 XX 
 
 Duresme ...... M'ociiii viii" xi' viii''. 
 
 XX 
 
 Porciones deductse ..... M'niiii xiii" xiii= iiii''. 
 Reman' ..... . Ixxxxiiii" xviii ^ iii''. 
 
 [Fol. 32.] 
 
 A proporcion for mayntenance of Hospitalite Lernynge Dyvine 
 Service Almes and other necessarie Expences in the Cathedrall 
 Churche of Duresme to be erectyd foundyd and establysshed 
 by the King's Majesties goodnes. 
 
 XX 
 
 Sm' M'DCiiii viii" xi s. viii d. 
 
 Hospitalite. 
 
 The dean cclxiii li. xs. — Prebend' xxxiili. vis. viiid. 
 Corpus of the deane and prebendaries. 
 Fyrste for the Deane for the corpus of his promotion which he shall 
 certaynlye receyve and accordinge wherunto he shall paye the 
 tenthes and fyrst frutes . . . . . . xl li. 
 
 Item to twelve prebendaries iche of them for the corpus of his 
 promotion viii" which he shall receyve certaynly by yere and 
 accordinge whereunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrste 
 
 XX 
 
 fruytes .....,, iiii xvi li, 
 
 Sm" cxxxvi" 
 
 Distributions. 
 
 Item to the deane for every dale of his residence to be payd by waie ■> 
 of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xii s. v d. 
 to be paid out of the same common possession which amountyth 
 in the yere .... ccxxvi li. xii s. i d. 
 
 Item to eche prebendarye for every dale of his residence to be payd I ' 
 by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession 
 xvi '' ob. over and besydes iiii s. ix d. ob. to be payd to every: 
 of the prebendaries out of the same common possession which 
 in the hole yere amountith to the twelve said prebendaries to 
 theSumme ..... ccciiii.li, 
 
 G 
 
98 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 [Fol. 32 dors.] 
 
 Learninge. 
 Item a reader in divinite for his yerely stypende to be paid of the common 
 
 possession . 
 
 xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 Item to twelve scolers to be found at the Universite off Oxforde"| 
 
 every of them ix li. xis. viiid. by yere . . cxv li. I ^-"^ 
 
 Item to xviii scolers to be taught Gramer Greke and Latyn I x -j 
 every of them iiii li. by yere . . . Ixxii li. j ^ ^ 
 
 Item to a scolemaster for the same scolars . . x li. I " •- 
 
 Item to an ussher for them . . . vi li. xiii s. iiii d. J 
 
 Dyvine Service. 
 
 Item to twelve petyoanons eche of them x li. by yere for ther dyet 
 and wagys . ... . . . cxx li. 
 
 Item to tenne laymen syngars eche of them to have yerely for their 
 dyet and wagys vi li. xiii s. iiii d . . Ixvi li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 Item to tenne Choristers eche of them Ixvi s. viii d. 
 
 xxiii li. vi. s. viii d. 
 
 Item for a master to the Children for his dyet and wagys . x. li. 
 
 Item to a Gospeller and Epistoler eche of them vi li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 xiii li. vi s. viii d. 
 
 Item to twoo sextens . •. . . . . xii li. 
 
 Item to a Cator . . . . vi li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 
 Itepi to twoo buttellers . . . . .xii li. 
 
 Item to two Cookes . . . . . . xii li. 
 
 Item to thre other commen servaantes as portor and ryngars eche of 
 them v li. . . . . . . xv li. 
 
 Fol. 33-1 
 
 Almes. 
 Item to eyght poore men eche of them yerely vi li. xiii. s. iiii d. 
 
 Iiii li. vi s. viii d. 
 Item to be yerely distributed in alraes to householders 
 
 Ixvi li. xiii s. iiii d. 
 Item to be yerely spente in mendynge of hyghways . . xx li. 
 
 ExPENCES Necessarie. 
 Item for yerely reparacions by Estymation . cxxxi li. viiis. vd." 
 Item in exspences yerely in surveynge the landes and recejfvinge 
 the Rentes . . . . . . xx li. 
 
 Item in expences for wyne and wax . . xiii li. vi s. viii d. 
 
 Item to a Stewarde of landes for his fee . . . x h. 
 
 Item to an Auditor . . . . . . x li. 
 
 Sum of the common M'ccciiii vi li. xiii s. x d. . M'cccciiiixvi" xv d. 
 
 Sum totall of all thies percels. . . . M 'oxxii" xlii^ x"*. 
 
 Above which chargys the church indewyd with landes to susteyne the 
 
 13 X 
 
i'. B. Solas &' Co., PhotoA 
 
 THE CHAPTER LIBRARY. 
 
HISTORY OF THE SEE ' loi 
 
 same muste pay yerely tenthes and a certayne sumrac by composition for 
 the fyrste frutes deducted and abbayted. 
 
 Cxxxvi li. payd by the deane and prebendaries severall. 
 
 cxl li. to be allowyd by statute for almes. 
 
 X li. for the stewarde allowyd by statute. 
 
 X li. for the Auditors fee allowyd by statute. 
 
 XX 
 
 The hole sume of deductions ..... cciiii xvi li. 
 And so remaynes chargeable with tenthes and fyrst frutes 
 
 M'ccxxvi li. xiii s. x d. 
 
 [Fol. 33. dors.] 
 Whereof to be payd for the tenthes of the commen possession 'i -^"O 
 
 cxliiii li. vi s. iiii d. \.^'> 
 Item a yerely Rent to be payd by composition for the fyrste frutes j g „ 
 
 Ixxii li. xii s ii d. J u .*< 
 And so the Cathedrale Churche for mayntenance of the said yerely 
 charges and payinente touchinge hospitalite lernynge divine 
 service almes necessarie exspences tenthes and fyrst frutes 
 after the Rates before mentionyd must yf the said shall lyke 
 the Kings majestie be indevi^d with yerely Revenues of the 
 summe of M'DCCxxxix" xiii s. iiii d. . . MDCCxii li. x s. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY 
 
 No notice of Durham and its cathedral would seem complete 
 without some mention being made of its fortress, the growth 
 of which has been contemporary with, and, we might almost 
 say, inseparable from that of the monastery itself. 
 
 There can be Httle doubt that other than the miraculous 
 considerations assigned to them by tradition influenced the 
 monks and the congregation of S. Cuthbert in their final' 
 choice of a resting-place for the bones of their beloved saint. 
 The almost impregnable position of the rocky promontory 
 upon which both Cathedral and Castle stand suggests a careful 
 selection on their part, with a view to the prevention of attack 
 and consequent further disturbance of their sacred relics. 
 What the first fortification was is a matter of doubt; most 
 probably it was merely a wall or rampart of earth, with a large 
 artificial mound at the weakest point. This seems to have 
 been the usual practice at an early date at many other places 
 in England, and in some cases their date is known and 
 corresponds to the time at which Durham was probably first 
 fortified. Whatever the earliest protections were, we know 
 that in 1072 WiUiam the Conqueror, on his way from Scotland, 
 passed through Durham. He quickly perceived the natural 
 advantages and strength of the position, and gave orders for 
 the erection of a castle. This was at once set about, during 
 the episcopacy of Bishop Walcher, and continued under 
 Carileph and Flambard. Of this building, which might be 
 styled "The Conqueror's Castle," not much remains. The 
 most important is the Chapel or Crypt, which belongs, no 
 doubt, to the earlier part of the period named (1080 to 1096). 
 In plan the chapel has a nave and two aisles. The roof 
 is vaulted, the ribs being plain, semi-circular, and square 
 recessed, and is supported by six circular columns. The 
 
THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY 
 
 103 
 
 capitals of these columns are a somewhat interesting feature, 
 owing to their Lombardic character. The abaci are square and 
 
 THE CHAPEL OR CRYPT, DURHAM CASTLE. 
 
 [Drawn by J. E. Bygate. 
 
 moulded, while the caps' proper carry at their angles rudely 
 carved volutes such as occur in the White lower, London. 
 Each capital is also carved differehtly with curious and rude 
 
to4 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 devices. Of the three windows which terminated the nave 
 and aisle at the east end, one has been destroyed to make 
 way for a staircase and the other two are built up. The 
 original windows of the chapel were very narrow and widely 
 splayed. In the walls are an aumbrey and the remains of 
 two altars. 
 
 Other remains of this date are somewhat scattered. Two 
 windows in the undercroft of Bishop Bek's, or what is now 
 known as Bishop Hatfield's Hall, are examples. They 
 have converging jambs, the semi-cirtular heads being cut from 
 one stone and the inside very widely splayed. The wall from 
 the keep to the chapel, and that from the keep to the gate- 
 way are also Norman work, as are also portions of the gate- 
 way itself. 
 
 The next important changes in the castle were made by 
 Bishop Pudsey, 1 153-1195, who not only repaired the existing 
 work but built a hall, known as Pudsey's Hall. Although 
 this hall has now almost entirely disappeared, through repairs 
 and alterations, sufficient evidence as to its whereabouts and 
 general plan is forthcoming. It was of two storeys, the lower 
 and upper halls. Entrance to the lower hall was originally 
 gained by a staircase which led from the courtyard to the 
 splendid doorway now enclosed in Tunstall's Gallery. This 
 magnificent entrance having been covered with lath and 
 plaster, and for long completely forgotten, was unearthed by, 
 and at the expense of Bishop Barrington, early in the present 
 century. It is in good presenration and is a splendid specimen 
 of rich Norman architecture. It consists of five orders, all 
 richly carved and moulded. Three orders rest on carved 
 capitals and shafts, and two are carried down the jambs of 
 the doorway. The stairway has entirely disappeared, but 
 there is Jitde room to doubt that it would be of much the 
 same character as that in the close at Canterbury ; and to the 
 protection afforded by the staircase roof, we are, no doubt, 
 indebted for the good preservation of the arch mouldings of 
 the doorway itself. 
 
 What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the 
 Norman Gallery. The greater portion of this gallery is 
 at the present time divided into chambers of residence for the 
 students of the university. It is reached by the Black Stair- 
 case and a doorway in the Early English Gothic style. The 
 
THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY 105 
 
 interior of the south and west walls are enriched by arcades 
 in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger 
 than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The 
 arches of the arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and 
 are carved with chevron ornament. The whole arrangement 
 hereabouts bears the impress of having been a portion of one 
 great building, which an examination of the roof, lead| and 
 general outline makes even more certain. 
 
 On the western side of the courtyard stands the great 
 Bek's Hall, built by the bishop of that name. It is above 
 the Norman undercroft, previously mentioned. Much of its 
 original character is now lost, owing to restorations, curtail- 
 ments, and alterations. Bek's doorway is still in existence, 
 though much hidden by the porch erected later by Bishop 
 Cosin. It has a pointed arch of two orders, with detached 
 shafts in the jambs. Another original relic, urirestored, is 
 part of the vnndow nearest the fireplace, which is valuable 
 as evidence of the date of the erection of the hall. The 
 tracery is geometrical, and the shafts in the angles of the 
 splays are banded. About the year 1350 Bishop Hatfield 
 enlarged and altered Bek's hall. At the west end he inserted 
 two light windows, which are now blocked, though the tracery 
 may be seen from students' rooms inside, and partly from the 
 outside. The open oak roof, with the exception of some 
 necessary later repairs, is of Bishop Hatfield's time. Hatfield 
 repaired and altered Pudsey's upper hairby the addition of 
 east and west windows, and probably a new roof. He also 
 rebuilt the Keep, which time and war had greatly injured. 
 The existing keep, which was erected in 1840, is similar to 
 Hatfield's, and in many places stands upon the old founda- 
 tions. It is now used entirely as apartnients for students of 
 University College. 
 
 Bishop Fox (1494-1501) is responsible for the next impor- 
 tant changes. He curtailed the great hall by a partition wall 
 near its south end, which still exists. The wall bears his 
 badge in two places — a' pelican feeding her young with blood 
 from her breast. He also adapted part of Pudsey's buildings, 
 near the south-west corner of the castle, to the purposes of a 
 kitchen, erected three fireplaces, and windows, and the oak 
 buttery hatch which opens from the kitchen, and which again 
 has carved upon it " the pelican in her piety." 
 
io6 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 Bishop Tunstall (1530-1558) built Tunstall's Gallery, 
 which extends from the great hall to the clock tower. It is 
 entered by Cosin's staircase (erected later) and by an eastern 
 stair built by Tunstall himself. A curious feature of this stair- 
 way is a port-hole which commands the main entrance to the 
 courtyard. The present beautiful little chapel is also the work 
 of Bishop Tunstall. It contains some notable carved oak stalls, 
 of earlier date than the chapel itself, which were brought from 
 the castle at Bishop Auckland. The carved devices of the 
 miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of atten- 
 tion. The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work 
 of Tunstall's time. 
 
 Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated 
 condition. During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the 
 then Lord Mayor of London, who used it badly, to say nothing 
 of the ruin caused by the Scots. He spent large sums in its 
 restoration. He added the present porch or entrance from the 
 courtyard to the great hall. The great staircase in the north- 
 west corner of the courtyard is his and bears his arms. Within 
 and leading to Tunstall's Gallery is the Black Staircase, also 
 the work of Cosin. He enlarged the chapel, and constructed 
 and fitted several apartments in the castle, besides several 
 minor works. In his will, he says, he spent the greater part of 
 his temporal estate in "rebuilding and repaireing the two 
 episcopall Castles of Durham and Bishop Auckland." This, 
 he states, cost him seventeen, thousand pounds, including the 
 furnishing and ornamenting of the chapels, which he did " for 
 the use of my successors in those Chappells for ever." Many 
 of the agreements between Bishop Cosin and his masons, 
 plasterers, carpenters, and painters, from which the exact 
 dates and prices paid for the work may be learned, are 
 preserved. 
 
 The latest important work at the castle was the rebuilding 
 of the keep, in 1840, which was described at that time as "a 
 picturesque ruin." It was entirely rebuilt on its original plan. 
 The gateway to the courtyard was repaired and modernised by 
 Bishop Barrington, with the existing inartistic result. 
 
 Durham Castle owes its picturesque appearance to two 
 causes — first, its magnificent and commanding position, on a 
 rocky escarpment ; and second, no doubt, to the many vicissi- 
 tudes through which it has passed, the alterations and additions 
 
THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY 
 
 16^ 
 
 made necessary by time and constant war, and later, the entirely 
 different uses to which the building is put. 
 
 S. B. Bolas if Co., Photo. \ 
 
 STAIRCASE IN THE CASTLE. 
 
 It is now chiefly used as a hall of residence for university men 
 and as lodging for the Judges of Assize. 
 
io8 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 The most favourable time for the architectural student to visit 
 the Castle is during one of the university vacations, otherwise 
 many interesting features would be denied him. Many portions 
 (except students' chambers) are, however, open to the public 
 every week day. 
 
 The University of Durham.— From an early date, 
 frequent mention is made in the history of the see of 
 Durham, of a college at Oxford called the Durham College. 
 Its origin is not exactly known, but by the liberality of 
 several bishops and priors its original endowment increased, 
 until provision was made for eight fellows and eight scholars. 
 This was the case at the time of the suppression of the 
 monasteries by King Henry VIII., when, owing to its 
 connection with the monastery of Durham, the college was 
 also dissolved. Its revenues, were, however, rescued, and 
 in 1541 were handed over by the king to the newly 
 created dean and chapter. Thus the matter stood till 1650, 
 when a petition was presented to the Protector, showing the 
 great disadvantages to the Nortfi of England arising from the 
 long distance of Oxford and Cambridge, and praying that 
 the houses of the dean and prebendaries might be converted 
 into a college. Cromwell took a favourable view of the idea, 
 and in a letter to Lenthall, the Speaker, in its support, he 
 says : — 
 
 " Truly it seems to me a matter of great concernment 
 " and importance, as that which (by the blessing of God) 
 " may much conduce to the promotion of learning and piety 
 " in these poore, rude, and ignorant parts, there being also 
 " many concurring advantages to this place, as • pleasantness, 
 " and aptness of situation, healthfuU aire, and plenty of pro- 
 " visions, which seeme to favour and pleade for theire desires 
 " therein." * 
 
 Various delays occurred, however, and it was not until 1657 
 that the Lord Protector issued his patent for the erection of 
 the proposed college, in a document consisting of twenty-three 
 heads. 
 
 The college thus commenced made great progress, and 
 would no doubt have continued to do so, but for the con- 
 stant opposition of the tw^o great universities of Oxford and 
 Cambridge. Then followed the Restoration, and with 
 * Hutchinson, vol. i 
 
THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY 109 
 
 came a reaction against all measures established during the 
 Protectorate. This feeling, combined with persistent petitions 
 from the universities, soon accomplished the downfall of 
 the College. 
 
 Bishop Van Mildert, who was translated to Durham in 
 1826, during his short episcopate saw many changes, not 
 the least of which was the successful revival of the scheme 
 for a university. Powers were obtained in 1832 for the train- 
 ing of students in divinity and the conferring of degrees in 
 other faculties. The new foundation was endowed out of 
 the revenues of the cathedral, and the bishop gave up the 
 Castle of Durham for the use of the college, besides financial 
 assistance of _;^iooo for the first year and ;^2ooo for the 
 following years until his death in 1836. The first warden 
 was Dr Charles Thorp, Archdeacon and Canon of Durham, 
 but it was provided by an order, on the recommendation of 
 the Ecclesiastical Commissioners that in future the office of 
 warden should be permanently attached to the deanery, and 
 that a canonry in the cathedral be annexed to each of the 
 professorships of Divinity and Greek. 
 
 The government of the university is in the hands of the 
 dean and chapter, and the affairs administered by a warden, 
 senate and convocation. A royal charter was obtained in 
 1837 making the university a corporate body with perpetual 
 succession and a common seal. 
 
 The university, besides its original schools of arts and 
 divinity, has established schools of physical science and 
 medicine, in connection with the Durham College of Science 
 at Newcastle-on-Tyne, and has recently admitted women 
 students to its courses and lectures. 
 
 There are many foundation scholarships and exhibitions in 
 arts, classics, mathematics, and theology, besides a long list 
 of private foundations and fellowships. 
 
 The university consists of one college and one hall. The 
 former. University College, occupies the Castle, and the latter. 
 Bishop Hatfield's Hall. 
 
 It is well suppUed with libraries. The university library 
 founded at the opening, to which Bishop Van Mildert 
 contributed a valuable collection. 
 
 The library given in 1855 by the late Dr Martin Routh, 
 president of Magdalen College, Oxford. 
 
no DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 The library presented by the late Bishop Maltby in 1856, 
 which he endowed with ;£iooo. 
 
 A library was also bequeathed to the university in 1859 
 by the late T. M. Winterbottom, M.D., of Westoe, South 
 Shields. A large collection of books was bequeathed by the 
 late Bishop Lightfoot. 
 
 Two other important libraries may here be mentioned, 
 though they do not belong to the University — viz. the 
 Chapter Library and Bishop Cosin's Library. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 THE CITY 
 
 Besides the Cathedral and Castle, the City of Durham possesses 
 several churches of decided interest to the student of archi- 
 tecture, which deserve a brief notice. 
 
 The Parish Church of S. Mary in the North Bailey.— 
 This small church is generally known as S. Mary le Bow, 
 owing to the fact that in its original steeple was an arch, 
 through which the roadway passed. This steeple fell in 1637, 
 and the ancient structure was allowed to lapse into complete 
 ruin. The present church was built in 1685, and its most 
 noticeable feature is the open carved screen between the nave 
 and chancel erected in 1707. The site of the church is the 
 oldest in the city, and some writers have thought it .probably 
 identical with that of the White Church in which the body of 
 S. Cuthbert was placed during the building of the cathedral. 
 
 S. Mary-the-Less is a small but picturesque church 
 situated in the South Bailey, and is of Norman date. Its 
 original architectural character is, however, almost entirely 
 lost, owing to extensive restorations which took place in 
 1846-7. The round-headed window now in the south wall 
 of the chancel, but formerly in the west wall of the nave, is 
 the only remaining original feature. The church is entered 
 by a porch on the south side, and consists of a nave and 
 chancel only. Some stones in the churchyard, which were 
 removed from their position when the church was restored, 
 are carved with chevron ornament, and would seem to show 
 that the date of the original structure was the earlier part of 
 the twelfth century. 
 
 S. Oswald. — This church stands on high ground over- 
 looking the river Wear, at the head of New Elvet ; and is the 
 parish church of the ancient borough of Elvet. The first 
 church was erected by Bishop Carileph, though the earliest 
 
112 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 parts of the existing building are of the time of Bishop Pudsey, 
 who also built the bridge across the river, known as the Elvet 
 Bridge. To this date (about 1190) belongs the eastern part 
 of the nave arcade, the arches of which are semi-circular and 
 rest upon tall round piers. Early in the fourteenth century a 
 new chancel was built, the aisles rebuilt and extended to the 
 west end, and two new arches added to the west end of the 
 nave arcades. In the early part of the fifteenth century a 
 clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new oak roof 
 placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer- 
 beam roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with 
 angels holding shields. The only parts remaining at the 
 present day are the grotesque carved corbels, and the angels. 
 The tower was also constructed at this time. In 1834, owing 
 to subsidence of the ground, it became necessary to rebuild 
 the south aisle and a large part of the chancel, which caused 
 the destruction of much architectural beauty. The open 
 parapet was removed, the clerestory windows replaced by the 
 present inferior ones, and the fine oak roof destroyed. The 
 east end of the chancel was rebuilt in 1 864. Special attention 
 should be directed to the fine oak stall-work in the chancel, 
 boldly carved in the style of the early part of the fifteenth 
 century. The tower, which forms a beautiful and conspicuous 
 landmark, is reached by a stone staircase of unusual character. 
 It is placed in the thickness of the wall, and is covered in 
 with twenty-four gravestones of thirteenth and fourteenth 
 century date, on which may yet be seen portions of inscrip- 
 tions and symbols. Built into the tower was part of a Saxon 
 cross, which has now been removed for preservation to the 
 dean and chapter library. This cross is interesting as evidence 
 of the existence on the same site of a pre-Norman church. 
 The tower was carefully restored in 1863. It contains a 
 peal of six bells, which were re-cast in 1694, and bear the 
 following inscriptions ; — 
 
 I. GLOVIA(?) IN ALTISSMISS (?) DEO PEX FORSTER A 
 VIC CIIRISTO HODSON ME FECIT 1694. 
 
 3. DEVM TIMETE PEX FORSTER AM VIC I. EVANS C 
 
 WARDEN CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT. 
 
 4. REGEM HONORATE PEX FORSTER A M VIC 1694 
 
 CliRISTOPR HODSON MADE ME I EVANS I S 
 H R W. 
 
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THE CITY 115 
 
 5. IBIMUS IN UOMVM DOMINI PEX FORSTER A M VIC 
 
 CHRISTOPER HODSON MADE ME 1694 lO EVANS 
 CHV W. 
 
 6. OSVALDUS FLOREM MEREOR QVIA GESTO TENOREM 
 
 PEX FORSTER AM VIC lO EVANS IS WH RW 
 CW 94. 
 
 The second bell was cast in 1885. 
 
 S. Margaret's Parish Church is situated on the steep hill 
 called Crossgate. It is opposite to and across the river from 
 the Castle, and from its churchyard a fine western view of the 
 cathedral is obtained. The church was built during the early 
 part of the episcopate of Bishop Pudsey (1154) and was 
 formerly a chapel under the church of S. Oswald. Here 
 again alterations and restorations have obliterated much that 
 originally existed. The church at present consists of a 
 nave and aisles, a chancel with aisles, a western tower, and 
 north and south porches. The existing portions of the 
 original church are the chancel arch, and the south arcade of 
 four bays, together with part of the clerestory and the north 
 wall of the chancel. The arcade consists of low massive 
 circular piers, with cushion capitals and plain chamfered 
 abaci, which support semi-circular arches of one order also 
 chamfered. 
 
 The north arcade is also Norman, and very sirpilar in 
 character to that of S. Oswald. No doubt it is of the 
 same date, and probably built by the same architect. The 
 chancel arch has two orders, recessed square and chamfered, 
 with a plain chamfered hood mould. On both north and 
 south sides of the arch is a squint. With the exception 
 of two which are Norman, the windows are nearly all of 
 modern date. One is in the north wall of the chancel 
 and is widely splayed. It is not seen on the outside owing 
 to the vestry which now covers it. The other, a very inter- 
 esting specimen, is situated over the western bay of the south 
 arcade, and is a portion of the original clerestory and the 
 earliest known clerestory window in the county. The roof 
 of the nave is of oak, and a good specimen of Perpendicular 
 work. The tower is of fifteenth-century date, and exceed- 
 ingly plain externally, but vaulted in the interior. It opens 
 on to the church by an arch which has been inserted in the 
 west wall. There is an interesting font of Frosterley marble, 
 
ii6 DURHAM CATHEDRAL 
 
 which is apparently of the same date as the chancel. The 
 vestry which is raised above the level of the church floor is 
 of the fifteenth century, and has on its gable the original 
 gable cross. 
 
 The Parish Church of S. Giles occupies a very elevated 
 position at the north-east end of the city, and commands one 
 of the finest views of the cathedral, castle, and city, which 
 it is possible to obtain. It was built by Bishop Flambard 
 and finished as early as 1112; but the north wall of the 
 nave, containing two small Norman windows, widely splayed in- 
 wards, and a walled-up doorway is all that remains of this early 
 church. The chancel is of later Norman of the time of Pudsey. 
 Both within and without a bold chamfered string course 
 rjns round the chancel. On the south side is a semi-circular 
 headed window, with a carved dripstone and nook shafts, the 
 capitals of which bear a similar character to those in the 
 Galilee Chapel of the cathedral. In the north wall of the 
 chancel is the priests' door, now walled up, and the corbels 
 and springers of the original chancel arch built by Pudsey. 
 The present arch was erected in 1876. In 14 14 considerable 
 alterations were made during the episcopate of Bishop Langley, 
 when the walls of the nave were raised, the upper stage of the 
 tower built, and the west window inserted. The font is a 
 fine stone bowl resting on a shaft, and is undoubtedly of the 
 time of Flambard. The chancel contains some monuments of 
 the Tempest and Heath families, who were the ancestors of 
 the Marchioness of Londonderry, patroness of the church and 
 parish of S. Giles. The tower contains three bells, the first 
 and second of which are pre-Reformation and the third bears 
 the date 1646. 
 
 On the north side of Gilesgate near to the North-Eastern 
 goods station, are the ruins of the little Chapel of S. Mary 
 Mag^dalen, of which only a small portion remains. At the 
 west end of the north and south walls are two doorways, the 
 latter walled up. Portions of the east window are still in 
 position, but it would appear to have been of earlier date than 
 the surrounding walls, and probably had been brought from 
 some other building. In the interior are the remains of a 
 Frosterley marble font, and a gable cross of thirteenth-century 
 date is in the custody of the dean and chapter. The 
 chapel was 43 feet by i6| feet wide. It is supposed to 
 
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