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 PRINTED IN U.S.A. 
 
 Cornell University Library 
 VK541 .B81 1B59 
 
 The Kedge-anchor : 
 
 olin 
 
 3 1924 030 898 443 
 
The original of tiiis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924030898443 
 
w 
 
THE 
 
 KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 OR, 
 
 YOUIG SAILOES' ASSISTANT. 
 
 APPERTAINING TO THE PRACTICAL EVOLUTIONS OF MODERN SEAMANSHIP, 
 RIGGING, KNOTTING, SPLICING, BLOCKS, PURCHASES, RUNNING- 
 RIGGING, AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS, APPLI- 
 CABLE TO SHIPS OF WAR, AND OTHERS. 
 
 JTUtistratfitr toUl) QtvtntQ Cngraringa. 
 
 TABLES OF RIGGING, SPABS, SAILS, BLOCKS, CANVASS. CORDAGE, CHAIN AND HEMF 
 CABLES, HA'WSEAS, tee., &e., RELATIVE TO EVERT CLASS OF VL'SSELS. 
 
 BY WILLIAM |RADY, SAILING MASTER, U. S.N. 
 
 TENTH EDITION. 
 
 niFBOVEO AND ENLARGED, WITH ADDITIONAL MATTER, PLATES, AND TABLES. 
 
 NEW YORK : 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 BOLD AT R. L. EHAW's NAUTICAL STORE, NO. 223 WATER ST., AND THE PRINCIPAl 
 KAHTICAL AND STATIONERS' STORES THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 LONDON: SAMPSON, LOW, SON & CO., LUDGATE HILL. 
 1859, 
 
 '3 
 

 Bniered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1847, 
 
 By WILLIAM BRADY, 
 
 m tne Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New YorK 
 
 c 
 
DEDICATED 
 
 TO THE 
 
 UNITED STATES' NAVY 
 
 AND 
 
 MERCHANT SERVICE. 
 
"DON'T GIVE UP THE SHIP.' 
 
 ' Ships our cradles, decks our pillows, 
 Lulled by winds and rocked by billows ; 
 Gaily bound we o'er the tide, 
 Hope our anchor, Heaven our guide." 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In offering the following work to the public, the author dnemn no 
 ■pology necessary, as it was written for tue use of the Naval and Mer- 
 chant Service of the United States, as a ready means of introducing 
 Young Sailors to the theory of that art by which they must expect to 
 advance in the profession they have chosen. He flatters himself, how- 
 ever, that it will be found useful to many old and experienced seamen, 
 as well as to those who have just entered the sailors' life, and particu- 
 larly to those destined for the Navy. Should it fall into the hands of 
 the learned, they will bear in mind that he is better versed with the 
 marlinespike than the pen, and that it was composed in the hours of 
 relaxation from official duties. He therefore hopes that it may be 
 received for that which it is intended to be, A Kedge- Anchor, for the 
 youthful sailor. The wort has been submitted to the inspection of a 
 number of experienced officers, both in the Navy and Merchant Ser- 
 vice, who have given it their decided approbation ; — some of whose 
 names are appended to the work With these few remarks, he submits 
 it to a discerning public, to stand or fall on its own merits. 
 
RECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 1 have examined the manuscript of Mr. Brady and approve of it, aa 
 a very useful Book for young oflEioers and others, in the Naval and 
 Merchant service. 
 
 JOHN GALLAGHER, Captain U. S. Wavy. 
 
 1 fuUy concur in the above. 
 
 ^, PECK, Commander U. S. Navy. 
 
 I have examined the within treatise on Seamanship, and other mis- 
 cellaneous matter appertaining to ships and vessels of war (written by 
 William Brady, Master U. S. Navy). It affords me much pleasure to 
 recommend the same to the junior officers of the Navy, and others who 
 may be disposed to learn the profession of Seamanship. 
 
 W. 0. WBTMOEE, Commander U. S. Wavy. 
 
 Examined and approved as a work that will be useful to the Service 
 J. D. L. SAUNDERS, Commander U. S. Navy. 
 J. MATTISON, Commander U. S. Navy. 
 
 This I conceive to be a valuable work, and well calculated to be use- 
 ful to the Service. 
 
 JOSHUA R. SANDS, Commander U. S. Navy. 
 
 I have closely examined the within work, and think it well calcu- 
 lated for the instruction of young officers and others in the Navy. 
 JAMES RENSHAW, Ca/ptain U. S. Navy. 
 
 1 fully concur in the above. 
 
 FRANCIS 0. ELLISON, Master U. S. Navy. 
 
H RECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 I have carefully examined the within work on Seamanship, and 
 think it one well calculated for the instruction of young officers, and 
 others. C. G. HTJNTEE, Lieuienant U. S. Navy. 
 
 We cheerfully recommend this work of William Brady, S. Master 
 
 U. S. Navy, to the maritime community, and think it well calculated 
 
 for the instruction of all who may he disposed to learn the profession 
 
 of Seamanship. 
 
 ISAAC McKEEVER, Captain U. S. Navy. 
 
 JAMES McINTOSH, Commander U. S. Navy. 
 
 WILLIAM L. HUDSON, " " 
 
 T .iNtY FiGLt • ' 
 
 £ G. GOlv JON, Lieutenant U. S. Na f. 
 
 jaX)WjLi/^Ed RI'VM^OI r> " 
 
 ^'IL-.IAM F. .Y:-J ti, 
 
 HENRY W. MORKiS, 
 
 faan^is s. el .I^ON, " ■' 
 
 james h. rowan, " " 
 
 john colhoun, " » 
 
 T. TURNER, " " 
 
 T. A. HUNT, " " 
 
 HENRY MOORE, « " 
 
 JOHN J. GLASSON, " « 
 
 CHARLES HEYWOOD, " 
 
 CHARLES S. BOGGS, " " 
 
 ALEXANDER GIBSON, " 
 
 ALEXANDER M. PENNOCK, " " 
 
 MONTGOMERY HUNT, " " 
 
 FRANCIS HAGGERTY, " " 
 
 J. R. McMULLANY, " « 
 
 Cait. henry D. hunter, Commanding U. S. Rev. Steamer Polk 
 JOHN McGOWAN, 1st Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. 
 WILLIAM H. BROWN, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. 
 JOSEPH C. NOYES, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. 
 
 fAPT. E. RICHARDSON, President American Seamen Friend Society. 
 " AUGUSTUS PROAL, Reviewer of the Work. 
 
 Catt. SAMUEL YEATON, Commanding Packet ship Oxford. 
 
 D. G. BAILEY, 
 
 ' " Yorkshire. 
 
 GEORGE B. CORNISH, 
 
 ' " Sheridan. 
 
 E. G. FURBER, 
 
 ' " Europe. 
 
 A. B. LOWBER, 
 
 ' " Montezuma. 
 
 J. A. WOTTEN, 
 
 ' " Admiral. 
 
 JOSEPH HAMILTON, Commanding Packet ship So. Carolina. 
 CHARLES R. GRIFFITH, Commanding Ship Southport. 
 JAMES RENNE, " .< Gondola. 
 
 IRA BURSLEY, " « Hottenger * 
 
 GEORGE W. HOWE, Commanding Packet ship Bavaria. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAET L 
 
 Wumbii. . . Pajj, 
 
 1. 1 L'lot a «iop«"^a"l, ..... .21 
 
 2. To ij.ake aj^ox,- -..---.-.- - . . .21 
 
 3. To make a-Spanish Eox, ------- -21 
 
 4. TomakeaJCnittle, .----..--22 
 
 5. Overhanded Knot, -- - - - - - - - -22 
 
 6. Figure of Eight-Knot, ........22 
 
 7. Two Half-Hitches, - - - 22 
 
 8. Reef or Square Knot, - .--- . . . . - -22 
 
 9. A BowlineJKnot, -- - - - - . . - -22 
 
 10. Bowline on-the Bight, - - - -.- . . . -23 
 
 11. A Runnings Bo wlme,- - - -- - - - - -23 
 
 12. A Timber-Hitch, 23 
 
 13. A Fisherman's Bend, -- -.- - - - - - -23 
 
 14. A Rolling Bend.- .--.-----23 
 
 15. A Car-rick Bena,^ -- - - - -- - . -23 
 
 16. A Cat's-Paw, - - - - -24 
 
 17. A Sheet or-Becket Bend, ------- -24 
 
 18. A Black-Wall Hitch, 24 
 
 19. A Rolling Hitch, ---------25 
 
 20. A Salvagee Strap, - --- - - . - - -25 
 
 21. A Pudding.for a Mast or Yard, - - - - - - -25 
 
 22. A Short Splice, ------..--25 
 
 23. A Long Splice, - - - --- - - - . -26 
 
 24. An Eye Sj^ce, ■- - - --. - - - - -26 
 2.5. A Cut Splice, --------..-27 
 
 26. A FlemishEye, - - - - -,-27 
 
 27. An Artificial Eye, -.-27 
 
 28. To worm and serve a Rope, ------.27 
 
 29. To' clap on a Throat and Quarter Seizing, - - - - 28 
 
 30. To make a Turk's Head, -.----.-28 
 
 31. To Sheepshank a Rope or Backstay, ----- . 29 
 
 32. To put a Strand in a Rope, ---.-..29 
 
 33. To Wall and Crown, _-^ - - -29 
 
 34. To make a Jklathew Walker, ------.29 
 
 35. A Spritsail.Sheet Knot, - - -,- - . - -30 
 
 36. A Shroud-Knot, -----.-.-.30 
 
 37. A French Shroud Knot, --..-.-.30 
 3(5. A single Diamond Knot, --.-....30 
 39. A double. Diamond Knot, -----...3] 
 to. A Stopper Knot, --.----..3] 
 
IQ CONTENTS. 
 
 Number. ''"•^ 
 
 41. A Buoy-rope Knot, .-.--.- "nj 
 
 42. A Common Sennit, ---------31 
 
 43. A Sea Gasket, 31 
 
 44. A Panch or Wrought Mat, -------32 
 
 45. A Harbor Gasket or French Sennit, ..... 32 
 
 46. Pointing a Rope, ......-.-32 
 
 47. To make a Grommet, ..-.---^-33 
 
 48. To pass a Rose-Lashing, ...-----33 
 
 49. To weave a Sword Mat, - - - .. • - -33 
 
 50. A Lashing Cleat, - - - - -- - - -34 
 
 51. A Shell, Pin and Sheave, .-------34 
 
 52. A Single, Double and Treble Block, ---..- 34 
 
 53. A Shoulder Block, 34 
 
 54. A Fiddle Block, 35 
 
 55. A Shoe Block, -35 
 
 56. A Sister Block, --- 35 
 
 57. A Dead-Eye, 35 
 
 58. A Heart, - 36 
 
 59. A Belaying-pin Rack, --------36 
 
 60. A Buphroe; ----36 
 
 61. A Horn Cleat, --36 
 
 62. A B-Cleat, 36 
 
 63. A Strap for a Block, ---------36 
 
 64. A Tail Block, 37 
 
 65. A Purchase Block, ----.--.-37 
 
 66. A Top Block, ----37 
 
 67. A Cat Block, ----38 
 
 68. A Snatch Block,- -----38 
 
 69. A Nun Bxioj, -------..-38 
 
 70. To bend a Buoy-Rope, --...--.38 
 
 71. To Pudding the Ring of an Anchor, ------ 39 
 
 72. A Jacob's Ladder, --------.39 
 
 73. Can-Hooks, ----------40 
 
 74. Hogshead Slings, - - - - - - - - -40 
 
 75. Barrel Slings. -------.-40 
 
 76. A Single Whip, ------.-40 
 
 77. A Gun-Tackle Purchase, --------41 
 
 78. A Luif-Tackle Purchewe, ------..41 
 
 79. A Top Burton, -----....41 
 
 80. Whip and Runner, --- --.--41 
 
 81. Runner and Tackle, - - - - - . . « -41 
 
 82. A Twofold Purchase, ------..41 
 
 83. A Threefold Purchase, ----•-..42 
 
 84. Names of Ropes, -------.-42 
 
 PAKT 11. 
 
 85. Launching a Ship, ------_. .43 
 
 86. Cutting out Standing Rigging, -------44 
 
 87. « " Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging, - - - - 45 
 
 88. <' " Breast and Standing Back-stays, - . . .45 
 
 ^5" !! '! S''*^'T^° ^^g^ ^""i Futtock ShrondB, ... 45 
 
 90. « « Fore and Aft Staysy - - - - . . .46 
 
 91- " " Lower Mast Head Pendants, - .... an 
 
 92. " " Bobstays, . ' . . . . ^g 
 
CONTENTS. 11 
 
 Number. Page. 
 
 93. Cutting out Bowsprit Shrouds, -------47 
 
 94. « « Jib and Flying Jib Guys,- - _ ... 47 
 
 95. « « Running Rigging, 47 
 
 96. Rigging Siiears and taking in Masts and Bowsprit, - - - 47 
 
 97. To take in the Mizen Mast, -----.-50 
 
 98. « « Main and Foremast^ 51 
 
 99. " " Bowsprit, 51 
 
 100. Gammoning the Bowsprit, --------52 
 
 101. Fitting Rigging, -..------53 
 
 102. « Mast-head Pendants, -------54 
 
 103. " Lower and Topmast Stays, ------ 54 
 
 104. To Rig the Foremast, ........55 
 
 105. Futtock Shrouds, 57 
 
 106. To Rig the Main and Mizen Mast, 58 
 
 107. « «- « Bowsprit, 58 
 
 108. Getting Tops over (whole Tops,) 59 
 
 109. « Half-tops over, 60 
 
 110. « up Top-blocks, 61 
 
 111. « « Top-masts, 61 
 
 112. « the Cap into the Top, 62 
 
 113. Turning in Dead-eyesj ...--.--63 
 
 114. Getting Topmast Cross-trees over, ... - - - 64 
 
 115. Placing Topmast Rigging, -------65 
 
 116. To seize-in the Sister Blocks, .------65 
 
 117. Backstays (Breast), --..-----66 
 
 118. Standing After Backstays, .-------67 
 
 119. Main Topmast Stay, ---------67 
 
 120. Mizen « « 67 , 
 
 121. Getting the Topmast Caps on, - - - - - - 68 
 
 122. Mast-head Man-ropes, &c., &c., - ... - - 68 
 
 123. Top-Tackle Pendants, 69 
 
 124. Preparing to Fid the Topmasts, - - - -•- - -69 
 
 125. Rattling the Lower and Topmast Rigging, - - - - 70 
 
 126. Futtock Staves in Topmast Rigging, ...... 71 
 
 127. To Rig the Jib-Boom, 71 
 
 128. Jib-Boom Martingale Stay, ....---72 
 
 129. Jib-Boom Guys, 72 
 
 130. Martingale Back-ropes, --.-..--73 
 
 131. Placing the- Rigging on a Dolphin Striker, - - - - 73 
 
 132. Getting the Jib-Boom out, -------- 73 
 
 133. Sending up Topgallant Masts, -...-»-74 
 
 134. Royal Rigging, ...-------75 
 
 135. Short and Long Topgallant Mast Ropes, ----- 76 
 
 136. To Rig the Flying Jib-Boom, 76 
 
 137. Spritsail Lifts, 77 
 
 138. Spritsail Braces, ...-------77 
 
 139. Strapping Thimbles for Guys on Spritsail yard, - - - 77 
 
 140. Crossing a Spritsail Yard, -.-..--.78 
 
 141. Two Half-spritsail Yards, 78 
 
 142. Whiskers, 79 
 
 143. To get on board and rig Lower Yards, ----- 79 
 
 144. Truss Straps, 80 
 
 145. Truss Pendants, 80 
 
 146. Q,uarter Blocks— Lower Yards, -------80 
 
 147. Clew Garnet Blocks, 81 
 
 148. Lift Blocks— Lower Yards, 81 
 
 149. Foot Ropes and Stirrups, - - - - - - - -81 
 
 150. Jack Stays— Bending and Reefing, 82 
 
12 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Number. 
 
 151. Brace Blocks— Lower Yards, - °° 
 
 152. Placing the Rigging on Lower yards, ' ' ' ' ' tf 
 
 153. Getting up Jeer Blocks and Reeving Jeers, ' ' ' ' oa 
 
 154. Lower Lift Blocks. °* 
 
 155. Reeving Lower Lifts, """""'"" o^ 
 
 156. Main Braces, on Bumkin, &c., --'"""" o? 
 
 157. Fore Braces, °^ 
 
 158. Crossing the Lower Yards, ' ' ' ' ~ ' ' or 
 
 159. To get on board the Topsail Yards, - - ' ' ' ~ °^ 
 
 160. Rigging Topsail Yards, Fore and Main, - ' ' ' ' °° 
 
 161. The Mizen-Topsail Yard, - 88 
 
 162. Placing the Rigging on Topsail Yards, 88 
 
 163. Crossing the Topsail-Yards, ---""■" f^ 
 
 164. Fitting Fly-Rloeks for Topsail-Halliards, ----- 89 
 
 16-j. R''gging To7igallpnt\ards, ------ '*'• 
 
 166. Topgallant Braces, ----- . . - . 91 
 
 lo7. Orosiing Topge''.aiit ti^a.ao . - - - 92 
 
 .68 Pot. Y"a.ds, - - !^3 
 
 luj. Koyai and 1 upgai.d.ji Gear, -------94 
 
 170. Spanker-Boom, -Trysail-Masts and GafF, - - - - - 94 
 
 171. Spanker-Boom Sheets and Guys in one, ----- 95 
 
 172. Rpani^er-Eiiom Tui-pinp-Liftp. - - . - - 95 
 lV3. A Brig or Schooner's Main-boom, ----- - 96 
 
 174. Reeving Peak-Halliards, --------96 
 
 175. " Throat-HuUiardSj - ... - 96 
 
 176. To Fit Single Vangs, - 96 
 
 177. '• " Double " - - 97 
 
 178. Fitting Gaffs with Cheek or Brail-Blocks, 97 
 
 179. Getting up a Gaff, 97 
 
 180. Lower Studding-sail or Swinging-Booms, - - - - 98 
 
 181. " " » Outhaul-Blocks, doc, &c., . . - 99 
 
 182. Topmast Studding-sail, Span-Blocks, Halliards, &c., - - 100 
 
 183. Topgallant Studding-sail Booms, - - - - - 101 
 
 184. Getting Studding-sail Booms up, ..-..- 101 
 
 185. Topgallant Studding-sail Gear, ...-.- 102 
 
 186. Stowing Hold and Spirit Room (Ballast and Tanks), - - 103 
 
 187. « Casks, - - . - - - 104 
 
 188. Stowage of Provisions and Naval Stores, - - - - 104 
 
 189. Stowing Chain Cables, - - - . - 105 
 
 190. To ge^ on Board and Stow the Hemp Cables, - - - 105 
 
 191. Cat-head Stoppers, - . . - - . . 106 
 
 192. Shank Painter, 106 
 
 193. Fish Davit Gear, 106 
 
 194. Getting on Board and Stowing Anchors, ----- lOS 
 
 195. Bending the Cables, -------- 109 
 
 196. To Range and Stopper the Cables, ------ 109 
 
 1^7. Stoppers, &c., ----------HO 
 
 '9£. Compressors, or Combing Stoppers, ----- HO 
 
 i99. Putting on Nippers, - - - - - - - - -111 
 
 200. Iron Claw Stoppers, &c., -------- m 
 
 201. To Cut and Pass a Messenger, . - . . - 112 
 
 202. Splicing Rope Cables, -------- 112 
 
 803. To Ship and Unship a Rudder, - 113 
 
 204. Getting the Guns on Board, ------- 114 
 
 205. Fitting Shackle Breechings, ------- i\q 
 
 206. Tr-iatic Stay, - - - - . Ijg 
 
 207. Hoisting in Spars, -------- ^17 
 
 208. Stowing BoomSj --------- ly] 
 
CONTENTS. 13 
 
 PART III. 
 
 NumlKi. Paste 
 
 209. Fore Bowlines, ..-_H9 
 
 210. Fore .Topsail Cle lines, 119 
 
 211. Topsail Buniiines, ------ ---120 
 
 212. Fore-Top Bowlines, - 120 
 
 213. Main Buntlines, ----------120 
 
 214. Fore Buntlines, ----------12] 
 
 215. Main Bowline. ---------- 121 
 
 216. Top-Gallant Sheets, 121 
 
 217. Top-Gallant Clewlines, 122 
 
 218. Fore Topgallant Bowlines, 122 
 
 219. Main Topgallant Bowlines, ------- 122 
 
 220. Mizen Topgallant Bowlines, ------- 122 
 
 221. Topgallant Buntlines, 123 
 
 222. Royal Bowlines, 123 
 
 223. Reef-Tackles, 123 
 
 224. Leech-lines, 124 
 
 235. Slab-lines, 124 
 
 226. Royal Clew-lines, 124 
 
 287. Fitting Tacks and Sheets, Bumkin, Gear, &c., - - - - 125 
 
 228. Yard-Tackle Tricmg-lines, 125 
 
 229. To Reeve and Toggle Royal Halliards, 125 
 
 230. Fore-Storm Staysail Gear, 126 
 
 231. Main^Staysail Gear, 127 
 
 232. Mizen-Staysail Gear, 127 
 
 233. Topmast Staysails, &c. &c., - - 128 
 
 234. Setting up Rigging for a full due, 129 
 
 235. Staying Masts, 130 
 
 236. Blacking Rigging, 130 
 
 237. Stationing the Crew, - - - - - - 131 
 
 238. Stationing the Crew at Gluarters, 132 
 
 239. Stationing the Crew for Mooring and Unmooring, - - - 133 
 
 240. Loosing and Furling, - - . . . . J33 
 
 241. Stationing tlae Crew for Tacking and Veering, . . - 134 
 
 242. Getting ready to Bend Sails, ------- 134 
 
 243. Bending Sails, 135 
 
 244. Bending Small-sails, - - 136 
 
 245. Bending a Spanker, &c., -------- 137 
 
 246. Fitting Sea-Gaskets, 138 
 
 247. Fitting Harhor-Gaskets, --------138 
 
 248. Bunt-Gaskets, - - -.-...139 
 
 249. Hammock Girtlines, -- - - - - - - -139 
 
 260. Stopping on Hammocks, - - - - - - - -140 
 
 251. Furling or Stowing, the Bunt of a Sail, 140 
 
 252. Furling Courses, -- 140 
 
 253. Making up Sails, 141 
 
 254. To make up a Topmast Studding-sail, ----- 142 
 
 255. Furling Fore and Aft Sails, with cloths or covers, - - - 142 
 
 256. Reefing Courses, &c., — ^Jackstays, - . . . . 143 
 
 257. Reef Earings, - - 143 
 
 258. Bending Studding-sails, ------- 144 
 
 259. Preparations for leaving the Wharf] and hauling out in the Stream, 145 
 
 260. Carrying out an Anchor with a Boat, ----- 146 
 
 261. Marking the Lead-line, 146 
 
 262. Heaving the Lead, 147 
 
 263. Marking a Log-line, ' 148 
 
 264. Getting ready for Sea, 148 
 
 265. Clear Hawse, 149 
 
14 CONTENTS. 
 
 NumWt. Pm*- 
 
 266. Weighing an Anchor with the Launch, - ' ' ' ' \^ 
 
 267. Weighing an Anchor with a Buoy Rope, ----- lol 
 
 268. Boating an Anchor, -- "'""*" Jco 
 
 269. Taking in a Launch, J^* 
 
 270. Taking in Boats both sides at once, - - - - - loS 
 
 PAET IV. 
 
 271. Getting under-weigh, --'- - - - - - " 1^4 
 
 272. When the Messenger Strands, or is likely to part, - - ' }%° 
 
 273. To get under-weigh, and stand before the Wind, - - ' ]^° 
 
 274. To get under-weigh and back a-stern to avoid danger, - - 157 
 
 275. Getting under-weigh— a Shoal on each Beam, - - - ' ^^l 
 
 276. Getting under-weigh in a Narrow Channel, - - - 158 
 
 277. Head to Wind— cast on Larboard Tack, ----- 159 
 
 278. Windward Tide— get under-weigh and sta.nd before the wind, 159 
 
 279. To get under-weigh, and stand out on a wind, - - - - 160 
 280.. Riding head to Tide— wind on. the Starboard duarter, get 
 
 under-weigh on the Starboard Tack, ----- 161 
 
 2S1. Getting under-weigh — wind across the Tide, . - - - 161 
 
 282. To back and fill in a Tideway, 162 
 
 283. Driving before the Wind, - ----- 162 
 
 284. Driving broadside-to, _..-.- 163 
 
 285. Securing the Ship for Sea, . . . _ - 163 
 
 286. Stowing the Anchors for Sea, ------- 163 
 
 287. Setting Topgallant sails — blowing fresh, ----- 164 
 
 288. Setting Courses, - ._.--- 164 
 
 289. Setting the Spanker, ...... 165 
 
 290. Setting the Jib, - - ....... 165 
 
 291. Setting Lower Studding-sails, - . . - _ . 166 
 
 292. Shifting a Course at Sea, ...... 166 
 
 293. Taking in a Course in a Gale of Wind, - - - - 167 
 
 294. Taking in a Topsail in a Gale of Wind, 167 
 
 295. Taking in a Topgallant Sail, 168 
 
 296. Taking in a Spanker, 168 
 
 297. Setting a Close-reefed Topsail, ------- 168 
 
 298. A Close-reefed Topsail Splits, - - 168 
 
 299. A Jib, Splits, - - - - , 169 
 
 300. Wearing a Ship under a Close-reefed Main-Topsail, and 
 
 Storm-staysail, ■ - .... igg 
 
 301. Wearing under a Main-sail, ..... 170 
 
 302. Wearing under Bare Poles, - - - - - - -170 
 
 303. Cutting away the Masts, - - -■ 170 
 
 304. Laying-to under Lower Stay-sails — Wear Ship, ... 170 
 
 PAET V. 
 
 305. Precautions for Scudding, ....... 171 
 
 305. Scudding— a Ship Broaches-to, 172 
 
 307. Scudding— brought by the Lee, ..... 172 
 
 308. Heaving-to, .......... J73 
 
 309. Taking in a Lower Studding-sail— blowing fresh, . - - 173 
 
 310. To unbend a Topsail in a gale of wind, - - 174 
 
 311. Securing in a Gale, - ..... 174 
 
 312. Preparations for a Hurricane at Sea, - . . - 175 
 
CONTENTS. 16 
 
 Number. Piig& 
 
 313. Preparations for a Hurricane, at Anchor, and Notes on 
 
 - Barometer, ---------- 175 
 
 314 The Foremast is carried away, ------ 178 
 
 315. To Rig a Jury Mast, - - - - - - - 178 
 
 316. Accidents to Tiller in- the event of losing a Mast, - - - 178 
 
 317. The Mainmast is carried away, ._..-- 179 
 
 318. The Bowsprit is carried away, ------- 179 
 
 319. A Topmast- is carried away, - - - -, - - ■ - 179 
 
 320. The Jib-Boom is carried away, ------ 179 
 
 321. The Foremast is sprung near the Hounds, or Bibbs, - - 180 
 
 322. The Foremast and Bowsprit are carried away, . - - iso 
 
 323. The Bowsprit is Sprung, - - ----- 180 
 
 324. A Topmastis Sprung near the Lower Cap, . - - - 181 
 
 325. To send aloft a Topmeist, and a heavy Sea on, - - - 181 
 
 326. The Grammoning carried away, - - - . - - 181 
 
 327. A Lower Cap splits, ---- ----I8I 
 
 328. The Trestle-trees are Sprung, 182 
 
 329. A Lower Yard is carried away in the Slings, - - - - 182 
 
 330. A Topsail Yard is carried away, - . - - . 182 
 
 331. The Ship leaks faster than the Pumps can free her, - - 183 
 
 332. The Pumps are choked, 183 
 
 333. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a Gale,* - . . 183 
 
 334. To throw a Lower-deck Gim overboard, ----- 184 
 
 PAKT VI. 
 
 335. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and Courses, - . - 185 
 
 336. The Rudder is carried away — to fit another, - - - - 185 
 
 337. A Ship on flre at Sea, 186 
 
 338. A Ship on her beam ends, ------ 187 
 
 339. Wind free, all sail set, struck by a Squall, - - - - 187 
 
 340. Struck by a Squall on a Lee Shore, ----- 187 
 
 341. Struck by a Squall under whole Topsails and Courses, - - 188 
 
 342. On a wind under whole Topsails — ^part the weather Main Top- 
 
 sail-brace, ----- ---- 188 
 
 343. The Jib Downhaul parts, 188 
 
 344. To Chase, 188 
 
 345. To Chase to Windward, --189 
 
 346. Observations for a Ship to Windward that is chased, - - 189 
 
 347. io Chase to Leeward, -190 
 
 348. To Windward of an enemy within pistol-shot — the weather main 
 
 rigging is shot away, both ships with main Topsails to 
 the mast, - - . - . _ _ 190 
 
 349. Wind on the Q,uarter, all sail set — ^bring by under double-reefed 
 
 Topsails, --- -.--.-191 
 
 350. Wind on the Quarter, aU sail set — bring to on the other Tack, 
 
 under double-reefed Topsails, ----- 191 
 
 351. How to get the Anchor off the Bows, ----- 191 
 
 352. Anchor head to wind, wind free, ------ 192 
 
 353. To Anchor on a Lee Shore, ------- 192 
 
 354. Scudding under a Foresail--^to come to an Anchor, - - - 193 
 
 355. To make a Flying moor, 193 
 
 356. To Moor with a long scope of chain, - - - - - 194 
 
 357. Blowing Fresh— in Port, 194 
 
 368. Send down Lower Yards, -----. 194 
 
 359, To House Topmasts, i95 
 
IQ CONTENTS. 
 
 Number. 
 
 Paga 
 
 360. To back a Bower by a Stream, """""" in? 
 
 361. To Sweep for an Anchor, "■""""" Tqb 
 
 362. Preparations for leaving Harbor, ------ 19o 
 
 363. Weighing Anchor in a head Sea, ------ 196 
 
 364. Casting or Cutting the Cable, ----- " Tq- 
 
 365. Clinching Cables, ''"''''' }m 
 
 366. Fitting Buoy-Rop^s,- """'"""" i™ 
 
 367. Jib-Halliards, with a Whip, -------197 
 
 368. Jib-Sheets, double, "'"'Joq 
 
 369. Wrecked in a Gale, .-.----- 198 
 
 370. Setting up Rigging at Sea, -"""•"" „°° 
 
 371. Slacking the Jib-stay in bad weather, ----- 200 
 
 372. Stopping out Top-Gallant Yard Ropes, ----- 200 
 
 373. Preventer Braces, --------- 200 
 
 374. Keeping a Clear Anchor, ------- 201 
 
 375. Anchor turning in the ground, ------ 201 
 
 376. To tend to a weather Tide, ------- 201 
 
 377. A Man overboard (at sea), ----- 202 
 
 378. Jib and Staysail Halliard Blocks at Mast-head, - - - - 203 
 
 379. To keep the Hawse clear when Moored, ----- 203 
 
 380. To tend to Windward— smgle Anchor, 203 
 
 381. To tend to Leeward, - . . - . - 203 
 
 382. To Back Ship at Anchor, - - - - - - 204 
 
 383. To break the Shear, - - - - - - 204 
 
 384. On Getting to Sea, 204 
 
 385. On Fire Regulations in the Merchant Service, - - - 205 
 
 386. Station Bill for fire in the Merchant Service, - - - - 207 
 
 387. Taking to the Boats, - - - - - - - 208 
 
 388. Losing a Rudder at a Critical Moment, &c., - - - - 209 
 
 389. Steamers getting aground, - - _ - - 209 
 
 390. The duty of remaining by a damaged "Vessel, - - - - 210 
 
 PAET YH. 
 
 391. On Squaring Yards, 213 
 
 392. Up Topgallant Masts and Yards— the Mast being on deck, - 214 
 
 393. Down Topgallant Masts and Yards, - - - - - 215 
 
 394. Crossing Topgallant and Royal Yards, and loosing Sails, - 216 
 
 395. Top-Mast carried away, ------- 217 
 
 396. Clearing the Wreck of a Topmast, - - - - - 218 
 
 397. Carrying away a Jib-Boom, - ----- 218 
 
 398. To fish a Lower Yard in the Shortest Time, - - - 218 
 
 399. Expectation of losing a Lower Mast, - - - - - 219 
 
 400. Lying-to in a Gale, after the loss of Masts, - - - - 219 
 
 401. Spars to convert in case of need, ------ 219 
 
 402. Getting aground, - - - -- - - . - 220 
 
 403. The Ballast shifting at Sea, 221 
 
 404. Vessels Surprised on Opposite Tacks, - - - - - 221 
 
 405. Meeting at Sea, -------- 222 
 
 406. A Hint on Running too Long, ------- 222 
 
 407. A Hint on Rounding-to in a Gale, - - . 223 
 
 408. On Making your Port, - - - - - 223 
 
 409. Laying off and on to enter a port, ------ 223 
 
 ilO. To Anchor and Veer a long Scope of Cable, - - - - 224 
 
 411. Preparations — Going into Harbor, - . 224 
 
 412. Cautions at Night, (Lookouts), - - - - - , 224 
 
CONTENTS. 17 
 
 Number. Fags. 
 
 413. Two Vessels in Collision, - 225 
 
 414. Squalls, (Cai3tion\ 225 
 
 415. Water Spouts, (Caution,) ---..-. 225 
 
 416. Pressure of Water at difl'erent depths, - - - - 226 
 
 417. On Stopping Leaks, - • 226 
 
 418. Examination of Chain Cables, - - - . . . 227 
 
 419. Minute Guns, ._. -227 
 
 420. Hoisting on Board Money or Plate, ---.-. 228 
 
 PART VIII. 
 
 421. Stowing Hammocks,- - - . . _ - - 229 
 
 422. Cockbilling Yards, - - - - 230 
 
 423. Dressing Ship with Flags, 230 
 
 424. Keeping the Copper clean, - - - - - - -231 
 
 425. Furling from a Bowline, - .-._.- 232 
 
 426. High fl,nd Low BuntSj §33 
 
 427. To Clear Mast-heads, 233 
 
 428. Placing, belaying-cleats in Tops, ------ 234 
 
 429. Making Swabs, 234 
 
 430. Stowage of Swabs, - - - - - - - 235 
 
 431. Junk, .... . . - 235 
 
 432. Making Mats, and Chafing Gear, - - - - 235 
 
 433. Gaskets, --236 
 
 434. Scraping and Greasing Mats, ------- 237 
 
 435. Manning Yards, -.--237 
 
 436. Man Ropes— (side) .--.----- 238 
 
 437. Spare Dead-eyes, .-....-_ 238 
 
 438. Hide Rope, - - - - 239 
 
 439. Hawse-hole Windsail, --..._-- 239 
 
 440. Fighting Ladders, -..-.---- 239 
 
 441. Hawse Bucklers, ----239 
 
 442. Making-fast a Warp to a Vessel, ------ 240 
 
 443. Fitting Q,uarter Boats' Gripes, -.--.-- 240 
 
 444. Fitting Gigs' Slings, .......-240 
 
 445. Scrubbing a Boat's bottom on leaving Harbor, - - - - 241 
 
 446. Carrying Light Boats on Shore,' ------ 241 
 
 447. Miscellaneous Notes on Working Boats, ----- 242 
 
 448. Duties of Boats' Crews, - - 243 
 
 449. Boats going on Distant Service, . - . - - 243 
 
 450. Boats under Sail, 244 
 
 451. Giving a rope to a Boat, -...--.- 244 
 
 452. Crossing a Bar with Surf— in Boats, - - - - - 245 
 
 453. Hauling up Boats, ...-.-- 246 
 
 454. Lowering Boats, . ....-- 246 
 
 455. Turning up the JHands, ....-- 246 
 
 456. Inspection of Rigging, Morning and Evening, - - - - 247 
 
 457. Inspection of Stowed Anchors, at Sea, . - - - - 247 
 
 458. Inspection of Boats at Sea, - -. - - - - - 248 
 
 459. Gammoning the Bowsprit, -_.-.-- 248 
 
 460. Precaution in Reeving Running-rigging, - - . - 249 
 
 461. Topsail Tyes, ..-----..- 249 
 
 462. Precaution in Blacking Rigging, ------ 250 
 
 463. Fore and Main Buntlines, - 250 
 
 464. Topgallant Mast Ropes, - 250 
 
 465. Futtock Shrouds, - - 251 
 
 2 
 
18 CONTENTS. 
 
 Number. ""««• 
 
 466. Tops and Half-Tops, 251 
 
 467. Striking or Housing Topmasts, - _ - - - ^ol 
 
 468. Swaying up Topmasts, ------- 2oJ 
 
 469. Unmooring, - - " " " " o«q 
 
 470. Reef-lines to the Topsails, - " ' " ' okq 
 
 471. Reefing Courses, --------- ^^ 
 
 472. Topgallant-Masts struck, - ----- 254 
 
 473. Hailing aloft, - 254 
 
 474. Proportions for Cables (Hemp), ----- 254 
 
 475. " for Anchors, - ".---' ,54 
 
 476. What length is necessary to form a Clinch, - - - 253 
 
 477. References to Sketch of Temporary Rudder, - - - 255 
 
 478. To Splice an Old Cable to a new one, - - - 255 
 
 479. Strip Ship, - ------ 256 
 
 480. Proportions of Spars of Merchant Ships, Length of Spars, &c. 256 
 
 481. Thickness of Spars (Masts), - - - - 2o7 
 
 482. Yards, ----- 257 
 
 483. Distance for Placing Lower Masts, - . . 257 
 
 484. Rule for Placing Masts in a Ship, - - - - 257 
 
 485. Raising Shears on a Wharf, - - . - - - 253 
 
 486. To find the Tonnage of a Vessel by U. S. Measuremenl^ - 259 
 
 487. Stepping and Raking Lower Masts, - - . - 259 
 
 488. Mooring, - - 260 
 
 PART IX. 
 
 489. Preparations for Heaving-down, .... 261 
 
 490. A Derrick, - - - 269 
 
 General Cautions^ --..-..._ 270 
 
 PAET X. 
 491. Explanation of Sea Terms, ...... 273 
 
 PART XI. 
 
 492. A table showing the weight of Cables and Anchors, used ip 
 
 ships and vessels of war, in the U. S. Navy, ' 290 
 
 493. A table showing the weight of Guns and Carriages, . 291 
 
 494. « " " Chain Cables, - - - - 292 
 
 495. " " how many fathoms make 112 pounds of four- 
 
 strand shroud-laid rope, - _ 292 
 
 496. Weight of one foot of Bar, Iron, - . _ _ 293 
 
 497. A Table showing the weight of one hundred fathoms cable- 
 
 laid rope, from two to twenty-six inches, - 293 
 
 4f 8. A Table showing the strength of hemp-cables, their weight, 
 
 size, and number of yarns in each, - - - . 2<14 
 
 499. A Table showing the strength of plain-laid rope, three strand, 295 
 300. " " " chain cable, as tested in 
 
 fiileen fathom lengths. - - . ogfi 
 
^ CONTENTS. 19 
 
 Number. Pago. 
 
 501. A Table showing the strength of short round-linked Bobstay, 
 Bowsprit, shroud, or crane-chain without studs, such as is 
 used for rigging, &c. - - - 297 
 
 •fi02. Weight of Timber in a green and seasoned state, 2d% 
 
 503. A Table of measures and weights of diflerent substances, - 298 
 
 504. A Table of weight of tarred Cordage, - - 299 
 
 505. A Table showing the comparative strength between Iron 
 
 Chains- and Hemp Cables, and the size required agree- 
 ably to the Tonnage, - ■ 299 
 
 506. A Table showing the test required of flax and cotton Canvass, 
 
 as to quality and strength, before being received for use, in 
 
 the U. S. Naval service, - - . . 300 
 
 507. Cordage Table, showing the weight of one fathom of rope, 
 
 from one to twenty -four inches, plain-laid three strands, &c. 301 
 
 508. A Table showing the length of 1st warp of Standing Rigging, 302 
 
 509. A Table of Foreign Ordnance, - - - - 303 
 
 510. A Table showing the quantity of provisions, slop-clothing, 
 
 and small stores, for two hundred men for four months, 
 
 U. S. Navy, - - 304 
 
 511. A Table showing the component parts of the Navy ration, - 305 
 
 512. A Table for finding the distance of an object by two bearings, 
 
 and the distance between them, - - - - - 308 
 
 513. Dimensions of masts and spars, of the U. S. ship Princeton, - 309 
 
 514. A Table of the size of s^iort-linked chain, when used as rigging, 310 
 
 515. A Table showing the dimensions of the masts and yards, of 
 
 American, English, and French ships, - - 312 
 
 516. A Table showing the compliment of Officers and Crew, allow- 
 
 ed to each class vessel in U. S. Navy, - 314 
 
 517. A Table of spars, &c., for all classes of vessels, 318 
 
 518. A Table showing the dimensions and quality of materials, 
 
 used in constructing tops, trestle-trees, cross-trees, and 
 caps, in U. S. Navy, - _ . . 324 
 
 519. A Table showing the complement and quality of Boats to each 
 
 class vessel in U. S. Navy, - . . . . 326 
 
 520. A Table showing the weight, size, length and quality, of an- 
 
 chors, cables, &c., allowed to the different class vessels in 
 
 U. S. Navy, - - _ - - - - 328 
 
 521. A Table showing the size, quantity, quality, and number of 
 
 sails, allowed to each class vessel U. S. Navy, - 332 
 
 522. A Table showing the quantity of canvass, rope, &c., allowed 
 
 for one suit of sails, for each class of vessel U. S. Navy, - 336 
 
 523. A Table showing the length and size of standing and running- 
 
 rigging, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, with mis- 
 cellaneous articles, - - - _ 340 
 
 524. A Table showing the size, and description, of the different 
 
 named Blocks, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, - 364 
 
 525. A Table showing the projective distances from the spar-deck 
 
 of U. S. Ship North Carolina, - - - 384 
 
 •526. A Table showing the weight of armament, stores, outfits and 
 
 provisions, of U. S. sloop of war Albany - - 386 
 
 527. Recipe for blacking Ships' standing-rigging, - - 389 
 
 528. do for blacking guns, 389 
 
 529. do for blacking hammoclc-cloths, yards, and bends, - - 389 
 
 530. " for making Liquod Blacking, - . - - . . 390 
 
 531. " for blacking guns, 2nd., ... 390 
 
 532. " Composition for blacking guns, - - . 390 
 
 533. " for making Black Varnish, No. 1, .... 390 
 
 534. for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths, No. 1, 390 
 
20 CONTENTS. 
 
 Number. Pag«b 
 
 535. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock 
 
 cloths No. 2, - - ... - - 391 
 
 536. " " « « « No. 3, 391 
 
 537. " « " « « No. 4, 391 
 
 538. " for making Black Varnish, No. 2, 391 
 
 539. " for making Solder for Copper, - - - 391 
 
 540. « « " for Lead, 392 
 
 541. " To make the best drying Oil, ----- 392 
 
 542. « for Black Stain, 392 
 
 543. « for blacking Guns and Shot, ------ 392 
 
 544. French Recipe for blacking Guns, - . - . . 393 
 
THE KEDGE-ANCHOE. 
 
 We shall first commence with knotting a rope-yarn . 
 
 1.— TO KNOT EOPE-YAKNS. 
 
 Take the two ends of the yarns, and split them open about 
 two inches from the end ; and if to make a smooth knot, yon 
 may scrape down a little with a knife, so as to make the ends 
 lay smooth ; you then crutch them together as you see in Plate 
 No. 1. Take two opposite ends (leaving the other two dormant), 
 pass one of the ends under, and the other over the standing part 
 of the yarn, connecting them together at the same side you took 
 them from at first ; then jam your knot taut, and see if it will 
 stand test by stretching the yarn from knee to knee, and hauling 
 on it ; if it stands without drawing, you may trim the ends, and 
 go on. 
 
 2.— TO MAKE A FOX. 
 
 Take two or three rope-yarns and make them fast to a belay- 
 ing-pin ; stretch them out taut, and twist them together on your 
 knee ; then nib it down smooth with a piece of old tarred par- 
 celling. This is called a Fox, and is used for many purposes, 
 such as making gaskets, mats, plats, temporary seizings, bend- 
 ing studding-sails, &c. 
 
 3.— TO MAKE A SPANISH POX. 
 
 Take a single rope-yam and make one end fast as before to a 
 belaying-pin, and untwist and twist it up again the contrary way, 
 and rub it smooth. This is used for small seizings, &c. 
 
22 THE KEDGE-AJ>fCHOR; 
 
 4.— TO MAKE A KNITTLE. 
 
 A Knittle is made of two or three rope-yarns laid up togethei 
 by hand, twisting them between the thumb and finger, and lay- 
 ing them up against the twist of the yam. They are used for 
 many purposes on board a ship, particularly for hammock clews. 
 
 5.— OVERHANDED KNOT. 
 
 To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of the rope 
 over the standing part and through the bight. 
 
 6.— FIGUEE OF EIGHT KNOTS. 
 
 Take the end of your rope round the standing part, under its 
 own part and through the lower bight, and your knot is made. 
 
 7.— TWO HALF-HITCHES. 
 
 Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, and bring 
 it up through the bight — this is one half-hitch ; two of these, 
 one above the other, completes it. 
 
 8.— REEF, OR SQUARE KNOT. 
 
 First make an overhanded knot round a yard, spar, or any- 
 thing you please ; then bring the end being next to you over the 
 left hand and through the bight ; haul both ends taut, and it is 
 made. 
 
 9.— A BOWLINE KNOT. 
 
 Take the end of the rope in your right hand, and the standing 
 part in the left— lay the end over the standing part, then with 
 your left hand turn the bight of the standing part over the end 
 part, so as to form a cuckold's neck on the standing part ; then 
 lead the end through the standing part above, and stick it down 
 through the cuckold's neck, and it will appear as in the Plate 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 23 
 
 lO.— BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT. 
 
 Take the bight of the rope in your right hand, and the stand- 
 ing part in the other ; throw a cuckold's neck over the bight with 
 the standing parts, then haul enough of the bight up through the 
 cuckold's neck to go under and over all parts ; jam all taut, and 
 it will appear as in the Plate. 
 
 11.— A RUNNING BOWLINE. 
 
 Take the end of the rope round the standing part, through 
 the bight, and make a single bowline upon the running part, 
 and the knot is made. 
 
 12.— A TIMBER HITCH. 
 
 Take the end of a rope round a spar ; pass it under and over 
 the standing part then pass several turns round its own part 
 and it is done. 
 
 13.— A FISHERMAN'S BEND. 
 
 With the end of a rope take two round turns round a spar, or 
 through the ring of a kedge-anchor ; take one half hitch around 
 the standing parts, and under all parts of the turns ; then one 
 half hitch around the standing part above all, and stop the end 
 to the standing part ; or you can dispense with the last half 
 hitch, and tuck the end under one of the round turns, and it be- 
 comes a studding-sail bend. 
 
 14.— A ROLLING BEND. 
 
 A rolling bend is something similar to a fisherman's bend. It 
 is two round turns round a spar as you see in the plate, two half 
 hitches around the standing part, and the end stopped back. — 
 {iSee Plate.) 
 
 15.— A CARRICK BEND. 
 
 This bend is more used in bending hawsers together than for 
 »ny other puipose. In forming this bend you will take the end 
 
24 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 of the hawser, and form a bight, by laying the end part on the 
 top of the standing part, so as to form a cross ; take the end of 
 the other hawser, and reeve it down through this bight, up and 
 over this cross ; then pass the end down through the bight again 
 on the opposite side, fi-om the other end, for one end must be on 
 the top, and the other underneath, as you see in the plate. 
 
 If both end parts come out at the top it will be a granny^s 
 knot. [Remember this.) 
 
 16.— A CAT'S-PAW. 
 
 This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to hook the 
 tackle to, in setting up rigging ; to form it, you first lay the end 
 part of the lanyard across the standing part, which will form a 
 bight ; then lay hold of the bight with one hand on each side ol 
 it, breaking it down, and turning it over/rom you two or three 
 times ; clap both bights together, and hook on to both parts. — 
 {See Plate.) 
 
 11.— A SHEET OE BECKET BEND. 
 
 Pass the end of a rope through the bight of another rope, or 
 through the becket of a block ; then round both parts of the bight, 
 or becket, and take the end under its own part, as you see in 
 the plate. It is sometimes put under twice, and the end stopped 
 back to the standing part. 
 
 18.— A BLACK-WALL HITCH. 
 
 This is used with a lanyard, in setting up rigging, to hook a 
 luflf tackle to, instead of a cat's paw, where the end of the lan- 
 yard is not long enough to form a paw ; but a strap and toggle is 
 preferable to both. 
 
 To make a black-wall over a hook, you form a bight, or rather 
 a kink with the end of the lanyard, having the end part under- 
 neath, and the standing part on the top ; stick the hook through 
 the bight, keeping the bight well up on the back of the hook (as 
 you see in the plate), until you set taut the tackle. 
 
 iVo^e.— You can learn it much better by practice than expla- 
 nation. 
 
Cut Splice. 
 
 Bending, Hitching, Splicing, &c. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 25 
 
 19.— A ROLLING HITCH. 
 
 With the end of a rope take a half-hitch around the stand- 
 ing part ; then take another through the same bight, jaming it 
 in above the fii-st hitch and the upper part of the bight, then haul 
 it taut, and dog your end above the hitch, around the stand- 
 ing part, or you may take a half-hitch around the standing part 
 and stop the end back with a yarn. 
 
 20.— A SALVAG-EE STRAP. 
 
 To make a salvagee strap, you may get a couple of spike 
 nails, and drive them into an old piece of plank, or whatever 
 you can find convenient to answer the purpose, or get two hooks, 
 lash them to any convenient place, as far apart as the length 
 you intend to make the strap ; take the end of the ball of rope- 
 yarns, and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take 
 it roimd the other one, and keep passing the rope-yam round and 
 round in this manner, hauling every turn taut as you pass it, 
 until it is as stout as you wish it to be. 
 
 K it is to be a very large strap, marl it down with stout spun- 
 rarn ; if of middling size, marl with two single rope-yarns ; if a 
 small strap, a single rope-yarn. 
 
 21.— A PUDDING FOR A MAST OR YARD. 
 
 Take a piece of rope of the required length, and splice an eye 
 in each end ; get it on a stretch, worm it, and then parcel it accord- 
 ing to the shape you want it. They are generally made as you 
 see in the Plate, large in the middle, tapering gradually toward 
 the ends, and made flat on the side that goes next the yard or 
 mast. When you have got it the size required, marl it down, 
 commencing in the middle and marling both ways until you 
 come to the eye ; if it is intended for a yard it is generally covered 
 with thick leather or green hide ; if for a mast, it is pointed over 
 for neatness 
 
 22.— A SHORT SPLICE. 
 
 To splice the two ends of a rope together, you first unlay the 
 rope to a sufficient length, then crutch them together as you see 
 in the plate ; you must then lay hold of the three strands next 
 to you in your left hand, holding them solid around the other 
 part until you stick the three upper ends, or, if it is a large rope, 
 
25 THE KEDGE-AJSrCHOR; 
 
 you may stop the ends with a yam ; then take the upper or mid- 
 dle end, pass it over the first strand next to it, stick it underneath 
 the second strand, and haul it taut in the lay of the rope ; turn 
 the rope a Uttle towards you, and stick the second end as you 
 did the first ; the third in the same manner, hauling them taut 
 along the lay of the rope;— turn the rope round, stick the other 
 three ends in the same manner, and it will appear as in the 
 plate. 
 
 JSfote. — If you intend to serve over the ends, you need not stick 
 them but once ; but if not you must stick them twice, and cross- 
 whip them across the strands so as to make them more secure. 
 If the ends are to be served, take a few of the underneath yarns, 
 enough to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, then scrape or 
 trim the outside ends, and marl them down ready for serving. 
 
 23.— A LONG SPLICE. 
 
 To make a long splice, unlay the ends of two ropes to a suffi- 
 cient length, crutch them together in the same manner as a short 
 splice; unlay one strand for a considerable length, and fill up 
 the space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it ; then 
 turn the rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that 
 will come opposite their respective lays, unlay one and fill up 
 with the other as before ; then cut off the long strands, and it will 
 appear as in the Plate. 
 
 To complete this spUce, you will split the strands equally in 
 two, then take the two opposite half strands and knot them 
 together, so as to fill up the vacant lay ; then you stick the ends 
 twice under two strands with all six of the half strands, leaving 
 the other six neutral ; then stretch the splice well before you cut 
 the ends off, and it is finished. 
 
 24.— EYE-SPLICE. 
 
 An eye-splice is made by opening the end of a rope, and laying 
 the strands at any distance upon the standing part of the rope, 
 according to the size of the eye-splice you intend to make ; you 
 then divide your strands by putting one strand on the top and 
 one underneath the standing part, then take the middle strand, 
 (having previously opened the lay with a marhnespike,) and 
 stick it under its respective strand, as you see in the Plate. Your 
 next end is taken over the first strand and under the second ; the 
 third and last end is taken through the third strand on the other 
 side. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 27 
 
 25 — A CUT SPLICE. 
 
 Cut a rope iii two, and according to the size you intend to make 
 the splice or collar — lay the end of one rope on the standing part 
 of the other, and stick the eild through between the strands, in 
 the same manner as an eye-splice, and it will appear as in the 
 plate. This forms a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for 
 pendants, jib-guys, breast-backstays, odd shrouds, &c. 
 
 36.— A FLEMISH EYE. 
 
 Unlay the end of a rope, open the strands and separate every 
 yam, divide them in two halves, then take a piece of round wood 
 the size you intend to make the eye, and half-knot about one-half 
 of the inside yarns over the piece of wood ; scrape the remainder 
 down over the others ; marl, parcel, and serve, or if preferable, 
 hitch it with hambro-line. This makes a snug eye for the collars 
 of stays. {See Plate.) 
 
 27.— AN AKTIFICIAL EYE. 
 
 Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand to a certain dis- 
 tance, and form the eye by placing the two strands along the 
 standing part of the rope and stopping them fast to it ; then take 
 the odd strand and cross it over the standing part, and lay it into 
 the vacant place you took it from at first ; work around the eye, 
 filling up the vacant strand until it comes out at the cnjtch again, 
 and lies under the other two strands; the ends are tapered, 
 scraped down, marled, and served over with spun-yarn. 
 
 28.— TO WOKM AND SEKVE A ROPE. 
 
 Worming a rope, is to fill up the vacant space between the 
 strands of the rope with spun-yam ; this is done in order to 
 strengthen it, and to render the surface smooth and round for 
 parceling. 
 
 Parceling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, cut in strips 
 from two to three inches wide, according to the size of the rope ; 
 the strips of canvass to be well tarred and rolled up in rolls before 
 you commence to lay it on the rope. The service is of spun- 
 yarn, clapped on by a wooden mallet such as you see in the plate, 
 called a serving mallet ; it has a large score cut in the under part 
 of it, so as to fay on the rope, and a handle about a foot long, or 
 
28 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 according to the size of the mallet. The service is always laid 
 on against the lay of the rope ; a boy passes the ball of spun-yarn 
 at some distance from the man that is serving the rope, and 
 passes it round as he turns the mallet ; when the required length 
 of service is put on, the end is put under the three or four last 
 turns of the service and hauled taut. 
 
 Note. — It has always been customary to put on parceling with 
 the lay of the rope in all cases ; but rigging that you do not intend 
 to serve over, the parceling ought to be put on the contrary way. 
 
 29 — TO CLAP ON A THKOAT AND QUAKTEE SEIZING. 
 
 Splice an eye in one end of the seizing, and take the other end 
 round both parts of the rope that the seizing is to be put on ; then 
 reeve it through the eye, pass a couple of turns and heave them 
 hand-taut ; then make a marlinespike-hitch on the seizing, by 
 taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike, and laying 
 the end over the standing part ; push the marlinespike down 
 thiough, then under the standing part and up through the "bight 
 again. Heave taut the two turns of the seizing with the spike ; 
 pass the rest and heave them taut in the same manner, making 
 six, eight, or ten turns, according to the size of the rope ; then pass 
 the end through the last turn, and pass the riding turns, five, 
 seven, or nine, always laying one less of the riding than of the 
 first turns ; these should not be hove too taut — the end is now 
 passed up thi-ough the seizing, and two cross-turns taken between 
 the two parts of the rope, and round the seizing ; take the end 
 under the last turn and heave it taut ; make an oircrhanded knot 
 on the end of the seizing, and cut off close to the knot. 
 
 Note. — When this is put on the end of a rope, and round the 
 standing part, it is called an end-seizing ; if on the two parts 
 below the end, a middle or quarter-seizing. A throat-seizing is 
 passed the same way, but is not crossed with the end of the 
 seizing. 
 
 30.— TO MAKE A TURK'S HEAD. 
 
 Turk's heads are made on man-ropes, and sometimes on the 
 foot-ropes of jib-booms in place of an overhanded knot, as the 
 lurks head is much neater than the knot, and considered by 
 ^me an ornament. It is generally made of small white Une. 
 1 ake a round turn round the rope you intend to make the Turk's 
 head on,— cross the bights on each side of the round turn, and 
 stick one end under one cross, and the other under the other 
 ross ; It will then be formed hke the middle figure in the plate 
 
Sheepshank. 
 
 'Worming a Rope. 
 
 Buo}' Rope Knot. 
 
 Knotting, Serving, Worming, &c 
 
OR YOUNG SAILOPS' ASSISTAiVT. 29 
 
 after which follow the lead until it shows thiee parts all round, 
 and it is completed. 
 
 31.— TO SHEEPSHANK A ROPE OE BACKSTAY. 
 
 This is intended for shortening a backstay ; the rope is doubled 
 m three parts, as you see in the Plate, and a hitch taken over 
 each bight with the standing part of the backstay and jamed 
 taut. 
 
 32.— TO PUT A STRAND IN A EOPB. 
 
 This is done in case of one strand of a rope getting chafed or 
 magged, and the other two remaining good. To perform this, 
 you take your knife and cut the strand at the place where it is 
 chafed, and unlay it about a couple of feet each way ; then take 
 a strand of a rope as near the size as possible, and lay it in the 
 vacancy of the rope, (as you see in the Plate,) and stick the ends 
 the same as a long splice. 
 
 33.— TO WALL AND CROWN. 
 
 Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three strands form a 
 wall knot, by taking the first strand and forming a bight ; take 
 the next strand, and bring it round the end of the first, the third 
 strand round the second, and up through the bight of the first— 
 this is a wall. (iSee Plate.) 
 
 To crown this, lay one end oveiv the top of the knot, which 
 call the first, then lay the second over it, the third over the second, 
 and through the bight of the fiist. It will then appear as you 
 see in Plate No. 3. 
 
 34.— TO MAKE A MATHEW WALKER. 
 
 A Mathew Walker is made by opening the end of a rope, anJ 
 taking the first strand round the rope and through its own bight ; 
 then take the second end round the rope underneath, through the 
 bight of the first, and through its own bight ; the third end take 
 round the same way, underneath and through the bights of all 
 three. Haul the ends well taut, and it will appear as in the 
 Plate. This is a good lanyard knot, if well made. 
 
30 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 35 A SPEITSAIL SHEET KNOT. 
 
 Unlay two ends of a rope, and place the two parts which are 
 unlaid together ; form a bight with one strand, and wall the six 
 together against the lay of the rope, (which is hawser-laid,) the 
 same as you would a single wall with three ends ; after you have 
 walled with the six ends, haul them taut ; you must then crown 
 with the six ends, and it will appear as in the Plate. To com- 
 plete it, you must follow the lead of the parts, and double wall 
 and crown it. 
 
 This knot is frequently used in old-fashioned ships as a stop- 
 per knot. 
 
 36.— A SHROUD KNOT. 
 
 Unlay the ends of two ropes and place them one within the 
 other, the same as you commence to make a short splice ; then 
 single wall the ends of one rope round the standing part of the 
 other, and then wall the other three ends in the same manner ; 
 the ends are opened out, tapered down, and served over with 
 spun-yarn. This knot is used when a shroud is either shot or 
 carried away. 
 
 37.— A FRENCH SHROUD KNOT. 
 
 Place the ends of two ropes as before, drawing them close 
 together ; then lay the first three ends back upon their own part, 
 and single wall the other three ends round the bights of the other 
 three and the standing part ; it will then Elppear like the figure in 
 the Plate. The ends are tapered as the other. This knot is much 
 neater than the common shroud Isnot. 
 
 38 — SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT. 
 
 Unlay the end of a rope a sufficient length to make the knot, 
 and with the three strands form three bights, holding the ends 
 fast down the side of the rope in your left hand, with the stand- 
 ing part of the rope ; then take the first strand over the bight of 
 the second strand and through the bight of the third ; then take 
 the second over the third and through the bight of the first ; then 
 the third, over the first and through the second. Haul these taut 
 and lay the ends of the strands up again, and it will appear as in 
 toe J late. This knot is used for jib-boom foot-ropes, man-ropes 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 31 
 
 39.— DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT. 
 
 To make this, you make a single one as before ; then take a 
 maiiinespike and open the strands, and follow the lead through 
 two single bights, the ends coming out at the top of the knot; 
 lay the ends of the strands up as before, and it will appear as in 
 the Plate. 
 
 40.— A STOPPEK KNOT 
 
 Is made by double -walling and crowning, which has been 
 described before on another page. The ends, if veiy short, are 
 whipped without being laid up ; but if long they are laid up and 
 stopped. 
 
 41.— A BUOY-ROPE KNOT. 
 
 Unlay the strands of a cable-laid rope, take one strand out of 
 the large ones, and then lay the three large ones up again as 
 before ; take the three small ones which were left out, single and 
 double them round the standing part of the rope ; then take your 
 spare ends, worm them along the lay and stop them. 
 
 43.— COMMON SENNIT. 
 
 Sennit is made by plaiting rope-yarns together. [See Plate 
 No. 4.) 
 
 43.— A SEA GASKET. 
 
 A sea gasket is made by taking three or four foxes, according 
 to the size you intend to make the gasket. Middle them over 
 a belaying-pin, and plait three or four together, long enough to 
 make the eye ; then clasp both parts together to form the eye ; 
 then plait it by bringing the outside foxes on each side alternately 
 over to the middle ; the outside one is laid with the right hand, 
 and the remainder held steadily — ^work the whole together, add- 
 ing a fox when necessary. When you have got it a suificient 
 length, diminish by dropping a fox at proper intervals. To finish 
 it, you must lay one end up, leaving its bight down ; then plait the 
 others through this bight about one inch ; haul the bight taut 
 to secure all parts — cut the ends off, whip it, and it is completed. 
 
32 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 44.— A PANCH, OR WEOUGHT MAT. 
 
 A piece of six or nine-thread stuff is stretched in a horizontal 
 direction, and the foxes (according to the breadth you intend to 
 make the mat) are middled and hung over itj then take the fox 
 nearest the left hand and twist a turn in the two parts, and one 
 part give to the man opposite (two men being employed to work 
 the mat) ; the next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts, and 
 one part given back to your partner ; the remainder are twisted 
 round the first which are given back, and then again round its 
 own part, and so on with the remainder of the foxes, until you 
 get it the breadth you wish. At the bottom of the mat selvedge 
 it by taking a piece of nine-thread stuff, the same as you used 
 for the top. The two parts of the foxes which are twisted to- 
 gether at the bottom are divided, and the nine-thread put between 
 them ; the foxes are hitched round it, and the end put through its 
 own lay with a marlinespike ; trim the ends off, and thrum it 
 with pieces of old strands of rope, cut in pieces about three or 
 four inches long ; open the lays of the foxes with a marlinespike, 
 push the thrums through the lays, and open the ends out. 
 
 45.— HARBOR GASKET, OR FRENCH SENNIT. 
 
 A harbor gasket is made with foxes, something similar to the 
 common sea gasket,— but instead of taking the outside fox over 
 all the rest, and bringing it into the middle, you intenveave it 
 between them by taking the outside fox of both sides, and taking 
 it over one and under the other, working it towards the middle 
 the same as common sennit. ' 
 
 46.— POINTING A ROPE. 
 
 Unlay the end of the rope a sufficient length for pointing and 
 stop It ; open the strands out into yarns, and take out as riianv 
 as you thmk it will require to make the knittles, by splittino- the 
 yarns and makmg one knittle out of every outside yarn : when 
 they are made, stop them back on the standing part of the rope • 
 hen form the pomt with the rest of the yarns, by trimming and 
 ciapmg them down to a proper size, and mail it down with 
 twme-divide the kmttles, taking every other one up and every 
 other one down ; then take a piece of twine, called the warp ai d 
 with It pass these turns very taut, taking a hitch with Ae' Sst 
 tuin every time you pass the warp, or filling. Then take the 
 knittles which are up and bring them down, and the ones wh ch 
 aie down, up; hauhng them taut, and passing the warp every 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 33 
 
 time over the lower knittles ; proceed in this manner until you 
 get almost to the end, reserving enough of the knittles to finis) i it 
 with ; leave out every other bight of the knittles of the- last lay. 
 and pass the wai-p through the bight, haul them taut and cui 
 them off. A becket is sometimes worked in the end. 
 
 Note. — ^Knittles are made by laying rope-yarns together, witli 
 your finger and thumb, against the twist of the yarn. 
 
 Snaking is for the better securing of a seizing, which is passed 
 round the single part of the rope and therefore cannot be crossed. 
 It is done by tucking the end part of the seizing under and over 
 the lower and upper turns of the seizing. 
 
 47.— TO MAKE A GROMMET. 
 
 • A gromraet is made by unlaying a strand of a rope and placing 
 one part over the other ; with the long end follow the lay, until it 
 forms a ring, with three parts of the strand all round ; finish it by 
 knotting and sticking the ends the same as a long splice, (^ee 
 plate No. 4.) 
 
 48.— TO PASS A ROSE LASHING. 
 
 It is used in lashing a strap or pudding round a mast or yard 
 or the parral lashing of a top-gallant yard ; this lashing is passed 
 crossways over and under one eye, then under and over the 
 other ; the end part is afterwards taken in a circular form round 
 the crossing, and the end tucked under the last part. 
 
 Note. — This circular part is done to expend the end, instead 
 of ci'ttinf^ it off, so that it will answer again for the same purpose. 
 
 49.— TO WEAVE A SWORD MAT. 
 
 A piece of wood called a sword is used ; this is put alternately 
 between the parts of the spun-yam or sennit, stretched over two 
 round iron bolts (as you see in the figure) ; the warp of marline 
 is placed through the parts which the sword has opened, and 
 jamed by it close to the head ; a piece of spun-yarn is put slack 
 through the same division at the opposite end and left there ; the 
 sword is taken out, passed under and over the parts as before, 
 and each end of the warp passed and jamed taut. The piece 
 of spun-yarn which was left at the opposite end, is now lifted up, 
 and brings the parts as they were first divided by the sword ; the 
 warp is passed as before, and so on until the mat is completed 
 3 
 
34 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 50.— A LASHING CLEAT 
 
 Is shaped like the figure in the Plate, having scores for the 
 seizings which are marked, and a groove cut in the part that fits 
 next to the shroud. 
 
 BLOCKS. 
 
 51.— A SHELL, PIN, AND SHEAVE. 
 
 Blocks are of different kinds, shapes, and sizes, according to 
 the several purposes for which they are intended. 
 
 A block consists of a shell, sheave, and pin ; and from the num- 
 ber of these sheaves it derives its name, viz. : a block with one 
 sheave is called single ; with two sheaves, double ; with three, 
 treble ; and with four sheaves it is called a four-fold block. The 
 shell of a block is made of ash, and has one or two scores cut at 
 each end, according to its size ; these scores are for the purpose 
 of admitting a strap, which goes round the block, in the centre 
 of which is a hole for the pin ; the shell is hollow inside to ad- 
 mit the sheave. The sheave is a sohd wheel, made of lignum 
 vitBB, iron, or brass ; in the centre is a hole for the pin, on which 
 it turns. The lignum vit8e sheave is bushed with brass or iron ; 
 round the circumference a groove is cut, that the rope which ^oes 
 over it may play with ease. The sheave is placed in the shell, 
 and the pin is put through both shell and sheave, which consti- 
 tute a block. 
 
 52 — SINGLE, DOUBLE. AND TREBLE BLOCKS. 
 
 What is termed a single block has but one sheave, and if in- 
 tended for a double strap there are two scores on the outside of 
 the shell. Single blocks are more used than any other kind on 
 board of a ship. 
 
 A double block has an additional sheave ; it is otherwise the 
 same as a single block. 
 
 A treble block is made in the same manner as a double, with 
 one more sheave. Treble blocks are generally used as purchase 
 blocks, and strapped in the manner you see in the Plate. 
 
 63 — A SHOULDER BLOCK. 
 
 A shoulder block is the same as a single block, with the ex- 
 ception that it has a projection at the bottom of the shell, called 
 
Gaskets, Mats, Blocks, &c. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 35 
 
 a sixoulder, to prevent the rope that reeves through it from jam- 
 ing between the block and the yard. These blocks are mostly 
 used for bumkin or lift blocks on lower vards. 
 
 54.— A FIDDLE BLOCK 
 
 Is made like two single blocks one above the other, the uppei 
 one being the largest so as to allow the rope which is rove in the 
 upper sheave, to play clear of the rope in the under one. These 
 blocks are used in places where there is not space enough for a 
 double one, or where it (the double block) would be liable to split 
 by not canting fair, or having room to play. These blocks are 
 used for top burtons, «fcc. &c. 
 
 55.— A SHOE BLOCK 
 
 Is also made like two single blocks, but the sheave of the up- 
 per one lies in a contrary direction to that of the lower one. 
 They are generally used as buntline blocks to courses ; the bunt- 
 line reeving in the upper sheave, and the whip in the lower one. 
 
 56.— A SISTEE BLOCK 
 
 Has two sheave-holes one above the other, — three scores for 
 seizings, one at each end, and one between both sheaves ; they 
 are hollowed out on each side of the shell, to take the shroud. 
 These blocks are used as topsail-lift and reef-tackle blocks, and 
 are seized-in between the two forward shrouds of the topmast 
 rigging, above the futtock stave. The lift reeves through the 
 lower sheave, and the topsail reef-tackle through the upper one. 
 
 57.— A DEAD-EYE 
 
 Is a large round piece of wood with three holes in it, (as you 
 see in the Plate,) and a groove cut round it for the shroud to lie 
 in. It is used to turn in the ends of shrouds and backstays;— 
 the three holes are used to reeve the lanyard through, when set- 
 ting up the shroud or backstay. 
 
 A bull's-eye is a kind of thick wooden thimble, with a hols 
 in the centre, and a groove cut round the outside for the rope o 
 seizing to lay in. 
 
36 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 58 A HEAKT 
 
 Is a block of wood with a large hole in the centre, at the bot- 
 tom of which are four or five scores, and round the outside is a 
 groove cut to admit a rope called a stay ; there are other hearts 
 called collar-hearts, which are open at the lower ends, opposite to 
 which the lanyard is passed. This heart has a double score cut 
 round the outside, and two grooves cut on each side for the seiz 
 ings to lay in, which ke^eps the collar in the scores of the heart. 
 Hearts intended for bobstays should be made of lignum vita", • 
 those made of ash being liable to split. 
 
 59.— A BELAYING-PIN RACK 
 
 Is a piece of wood with a number of holes through it, in whicti 
 belaying-pins are stuck ; on the back part are several scores for 
 the shrouds to lie in to which it is seized. 
 
 60 — A EUPHROE 
 
 Is a long piece of wood, having a number of holes, through 
 which the legs of the crowfoot is rove, — a score is cut round it to 
 admit of a strap. This is used for the ridge of an awning. 
 
 61.— A HORN CLEAT. 
 
 Horn cleats are used for different purposes ; some are made to 
 seize on to the shrouds; they are called lashing cleats ; others 
 are made to nail on to different parts of the bulwarks. They are 
 of different shape and size, and used to belay various ropes to, in 
 all parts of the ship. ' 
 
 62.— A B-CLEAT 
 
 Is a piece of wood scored out inside, something like the letter 
 B and rounded off outside ; they are used for leading a rope 
 through, or for keeping it in its place on the masts, bowsprit, &c. 
 
 63.— A STRAP FOR A BLOCK. 
 
 Straps are fitted in various ways, according to the ise thev are 
 intended for. and ar-ovding- to the size of the block. ^ 
 
OR YOUNU SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 37 
 
 A common strap is fitted in the following manner: — 
 First, cut the rope once-and-a-half the round of the block, then 
 get it on a stretch, — ^worm, parcel, and serve as near the end as 
 possible, not to interfere with splicing ; then splice the ends 
 together with a short splice, and finish serving snug up to the 
 splice. Stretch it and cut the ends off, or you may serve over 
 the ends, and it will appear as in the Plate. If there is a num- 
 ber of those straps required, it would be best to get the rope on a 
 stretch, and serve off the required number before cutting. 
 
 64.— A TAIL BLOCK 
 
 Is strapped with an eye-splice, snug round the block ; the ends 
 are stuck but once ; then scraped down, and served over with 
 spun-yarn. Clap on a stout whipping about six inches from the 
 sphce ; open the ends out, twist them into foxes, and plait them 
 together, as mentioned for gaskets ; or, the strands may be 
 opened out and marled down salvagee fashion; tapering it a 
 little towards the end of the tail. 
 
 Note. — Blocks used for jiggers, have a double tail made in the 
 same manner. 
 
 65 A PURCHASE BLOCK 
 
 Is double strapped, having two scores in the shell for that pur- 
 pose ; the strap is woimed, parceled, and served, (sometimes only 
 wormed and parceled,) and spliced together. It is then doubled 
 so as to bring the splice at the bottom of the block. The seizing 
 is put on the same as any other; the only difference is, that it is 
 crossed both ways, through the double parts of the strap. 
 
 These block-straps are so large and stiff, that it requires a pur- 
 chase to set them securely in the scores of the block, and bring 
 them into their proper place. 
 
 66.— A TOP BLOCK 
 
 Is a single iron-bound hook-block, with (generally) a brass 
 sheave ; it hooks to an eye-bolt in the cap. The top-pendanta 
 are rove through the top-blocks when swaying up topmasts. 
 
38 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR, 
 
 67.— A CAT BLOCK. 
 
 The cat block is three-fold, non-bound, with a large iron hook 
 attached to it, for the purpose of hooking the ring of the anchoi 
 when catting it. 
 
 On the forward side of the shell of this block are two small 
 eye-bolts, for the purpose of fitting a small rope, called the back- 
 rope bridle, used in hooking the cat. 
 
 68.— A SNATCH BLOCK 
 
 Is generally iron-bound, with a swivel hook ; an iron clasp s 
 fitted on the iron band, or strap, with a hinge to go over the 
 snatch, and toggles on the opposite side, as you see in the Plate. 
 The bight of a hawser or large rope is placed in this block, when 
 warping the ship, <fec. 
 
 Note. — There has been of late years several different improve- 
 ments made on these blocks. 
 
 Blocks of this description, and of a large size, are generally 
 termed " viol, or rouse-about blocks." 
 
 69 A NUN BUOY. 
 
 Buoys are used when a ship is riding at anchor, to denote the 
 position of the anchor. They are a kind of a cask, large in the 
 middle, and small at both ends ; hooped close with iron hoops, 
 and strapped with rope well served. A buoy-strap is cut nine 
 times the length of the buoy ; this is sufficient to make the slings 
 and hoops ; the slings have an eye spliced in each end, the hoops 
 are rove through these eyes, spliced together, and fitted on the 
 buoy, as you see in the Plate. 
 
 70.— TO BEND A BUOY-ROPE. 
 
 The buoy rope is made fast with a. clove-hitch round the arms 
 ot the anchor, close up to the crown, and the end part stopped 
 along the shank, with one or two stops. 
 
 Some are fitted with a running eye, and when used this way 
 the running eye is rove round one arm, a hitch taken over the 
 other, and seized in the cross. 
 
B.ocks, Purchases, &c. &c. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 39 
 
 In large ships they are fitted with pendants and slip buoy- 
 ropes ; the pendants have a large thinible spliced in one end, 
 large enough to receive a stout hawser, in case you should WAnt 
 to purchase the anchor by the buoy-rope. The size for the slip 
 buoy-rope is one-third the size of the proper buoy-rope. 
 
 71.— TO PUDDING THE RING OF AN ANCHOR. 
 
 The ring of the anchor is well tarred, and paiceled with tarred 
 canvass ; then a number of lengths of old rope are cut three times 
 the diameter of the ring ; these are laid on the ring, and stopped 
 by a temporary seizing in the middle ; they are then placed fair 
 by hand round the rings, as you see in the Plate. 
 
 When one or two turns of rattling-stuff is taken round all 
 parts, and a heaver put through it, it is hove well round, which 
 stretches all parts snug round the ring. After it is all hove on 
 neatly, put on the seizings, four in number. [See Plate.) 
 
 72.— A JACOB'S LADDER. 
 
 These ladders are used in many different parts of a ship of 
 war ; they are used for stern ladders, rigging ladders, and on the 
 swinging booms in harbor, &c. There are several different 
 ways of making them ; some are made salvagee fashion, and 
 covered ; others are made of four-stranded rope, and have the 
 rounds put through between the strands of the rope. But the 
 most general way of making these ladders, is to take some small 
 rope, (about two-inch stuff,) and make two straps the length you 
 intend to make the ladder, and splice them together with a short- 
 long-splice. The straps being made, get them on a stretch both 
 together, and see if they bear an equal strain ; if not, shorten one 
 strap, so as to make both alike. Take a piece of chalk and mark 
 off where you intend the rounds to go, about fifteen inches apart. 
 
 The rounds are pieces of round wood, about two inches in 
 diameter, of the length required, with a score on each end, for the 
 rope to lay -in. Put the rounds in between both parts of the rope, 
 exactly at the chalk mark ; having got them all placed, com- 
 mence and seize them in, by putting on a snug seizing of mar- 
 line on each side of the round ; you may parcel, leather, or serve 
 in the nips, just as may be preferred. 
 
40 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 73.— CAN HOOKS 
 
 Are broad flat iron hooks, in the eyes of which thimbles are 
 inserted. What is termed a pair of can hooks, is a piece of rope 
 four or five feet long, or long enough to span a cask from chime 
 to chime. When fitted, one of these hooks are spliced into the 
 end of this rope ; it is then got on a stretch, wormed, parceled 
 and served, and a thimble is sometimes seized in the bight, to 
 hook on to, when lifting a cask. 
 
 Note. — Some are fitted with chain, with a large iron ring in 
 the middle. 
 
 74.— HOGSHEAD SLINGS 
 
 Is a piece of rope about five fathoms long, and from five to six 
 inches in circumfeience, with a large thimble spliced in one end, 
 and the other end well whipped. They are used to sling large 
 casks, being more secure than can hooks. They are put on in 
 this manner : — ^pass the bight over one end of the cask, reeve the 
 end through the thimble, and haul it well taut ; then take the 
 end round the other end of the cask, and take two half-hitches 
 round the standing part, and it is done. {See Plate.) 
 
 75.— BARREL SLINGS 
 
 Are generally made of three inch rope, and of sufficient length 
 to go round the barrel. They are similar to a long strap, spliced 
 together with a short splice ; it is passed round the barrel and 
 one bight rove through the other. 
 
 They are sometimes made long enough to sling two or three 
 barrels at a time. 
 
 76.— A SINGLE WHIP. 
 
 A single whip is the smallest and most simple purchase in use. 
 It IS made by reeving a rope through a single block, as vou see 
 in the Plate. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 41 
 
 77.— A GUN-TACKLE PUECHASE 
 
 Is made by reeving a rope through a single block, then through 
 another single block, and make the end fast to the one it was 
 first rove through, or splice it into the bottom of the block for 
 neatness. (iSfee Plate.) 
 
 78.— A LUFF-TACKLE PUECHASE 
 
 Consists of a double and single block ; the rope is rove through 
 one of the sheave holes of the double block, then through the 
 single one, through the double one again, and the end made fast 
 to the single block, with a becket bend, to a becket in the bottom 
 of the block. {See Plate.) 
 
 79.— A TOP BUETON 
 
 Is rove in the same manner as a luff-tackle purchase ; the only 
 difference is, that the upper block of the burton is a fiddle block, 
 while that of the luff is a double one. (^ee Plate.) 
 
 8 O.— WHIP AND EUNNEE. 
 
 If a rope is rove through a single block, it is called a whip, as 
 before mentioned ; and if the fall of this whip be spliced round 
 the block of another whip, it becomes whip on whip, or whip and 
 runner. {See Plate.) 
 
 81.— A EUNNEE AND TACKLE 
 
 Is the same purchase as a luff-tackle applied to a runner. A 
 runner is a large rope rove through a single block, with a hook 
 spliced in one end. {See Plate.) 
 
 82.— A TWO-FOLD PUECHASE 
 
 Consists of two double blocks ; the fall is first rove through one 
 sheave of the upper block, then through one of the lower ones ; 
 through the upper one again, then through the lower one, and 
 make the end fast to the upper block. 
 
42 THE KEDGE-AJN^CHOR; 
 
 83.— A THEEE-FOLD PURCHASE. 
 
 A three-fold purchase is rove in this way, the blocks having 
 one more sheave, only that you commence to reeve the fall in 
 the middle sheave first, — instead of one of the side ones, which 
 brings a cross in the fall. The reason of its being rove in this 
 manner, is, that the heaviest strain comes first on the fall part, 
 and if it was rove in the side sheave, it would have a tendency 
 to cant the block in the strap, split the shell of the block, and 
 cut the fall ; but when it is in the middle sheave it draws all 
 down square alike. 
 
 84 NAMES OF ROPES. 
 
 The different kinds of ropes are designated as follows : — 
 
 Hawser-laid and cable-laid rope is all the same ; it is composed 
 of nine strands, each strand having an equal number of yarns. 
 These nine strands are laid into three, by twisting three small 
 ones into one large one ; then the three large ones are laid up, 
 or twisted together left-handed, which makes the nine strands ; 
 this is a hawser-laid, or cabled, rope. 
 
 A common or plain rope is composed of three strands, of an 
 equal number of yarns twisted together. 
 
 Shroud-laid rope is made in the same manner, only that it con- 
 sists of four strands instead of three, and a small strand which 
 runs through the middle, termed the heart of the rope. When 
 plain-laid rope is laid up left-handed, it is called back-laid rope. 
 There is also four stranded hawser-laid rope, which is used for 
 stays, &c. &c. 
 
PART II. 
 
 85.— LAUNCHING A SHIP. 
 
 After the carpenters have completed the hull of the vessel, the 
 necessary preparations for launching are commenced as follows : — 
 
 Gret an anchor on each bow ; get the cables, on board and bend 
 them to the anchors ; range and bitt the cables ; bend the buoy 
 ropes, and see everything clear for letting go the anchors. 
 
 It will then be necessary to get four stout hawsers on the spar 
 deck, two on each side ; bend one to the other, and have them 
 coiled down clear for running. This being done, pass the ends 
 of two hawsers out forward, through the warping chocks on each 
 bow ; pass the ends aft, one on each side, and make them fast to 
 some secure place, on their respective sides of the launching slip, 
 as clear of the ways as possible. Stop the bights of the hawsers 
 with a single rope-yarn up along, the ship's sides, so as. not to in- 
 terfere with the ways, or interrupt the progress of the carpenters 
 while knocking away the shores pievious to launching. 
 
 Have men stationed to attend to veering the hawsers and 
 cables when the ship is off the ways, and also to letting go the 
 anchors, if necessary. Have a few buckets of water ready to 
 throw on the bitts, to prevent any danger that might occur from 
 fire while veering the hawsers and cables. 
 
 The ways being well greased, and the necessary preparations 
 for launching completed, all the blocks and wedges by which the 
 ship was formerly supported, are driven out from under her keel, 
 until the whole weight gradually subsides upon the sliding ways, 
 or cradle ; a few shores, or stanchions, remain, by whjch she is 
 retained on the stocks until the period for launching arrives, 
 which is generally at high water ; they are then cut away, and 
 all obstructions removed,' with the exception of the dogshore (a 
 representation of which is given in the Plate). The word ia 
 given " to launcK'' — the dogshore is then knocked away, which 
 causes her to advance down the inclined plane into the water. 
 
 If the ship should hang after the dogshore is removed, it will 
 be necessary to apply screws under th& fore-foot, which will cause 
 
44 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 her to move immediately along the ways. The ways generallj 
 extend a sufficient depth under the surface of the water to floaJ 
 the vessel when she arrives at the extreme ends. 
 
 When the ship is off the stocks " veer away roundly," and do 
 not attempt to check her until she begins to deaden her way, 
 then check her " handsomely" with the hawsers so as not to part 
 them ; if, however, they should part, let go an anchor immedi- 
 ately; if that should not bring her up, let go the other anchor, 
 and veer gradually on both cables until she is brought up. 
 
 iVoife.— When a ship is to be launched it is always customary 
 to hoist the ensign, jack, and pennant ; the jack forward, ensign 
 aft, and the pennant amidships. Flagstaffs are erected for that 
 purpose previous to launching, as represented in the Plate, where 
 you see a ship of war ready to be launched from the stocks. 
 
 86.— CUTTING OUT STANDING RIG-GING. 
 
 Lower Rigging. — Measure the distance from the larboard side 
 of the mast-head to the foremost dead-eye in the starboard chan- 
 nels, which distance set off on the floor of the rigging loft and 
 stick in a marlinespike at each extremity. The shroud stuff 
 being stretched, stop one end to one of the marlinespikes ; take 
 the bight round the other and back again : this is the first pair of 
 shrouds ; pass it round again, outside at each end, for the second 
 pair, and continue in this manner until one gang of rigging is 
 completed. Mark the length of the eyes straight across at the 
 opposite end, to the one stopped to the marlinespike ; cut at the 
 latter in an angular direction (so that the after-legs will be a 
 little longer than the forward ones), and the inside pair will be 
 the first pair of shrouds. Hitch a piece of spun-yarn round each 
 shroud, in the centre of the eye, making knots on it according to 
 the number of the shroud, commencing the inside pair with one 
 knot. The mark for the length of the eye gives the place for the 
 eye-seizing ; the round of the rope giving their place on the 
 mast-head. {Old fashion.) 
 
 The proportion for the eye is the round of the mast-head above 
 the bolsters ; I have also seen the breadth of the seizing added 
 (some allow five squares of the mast-head, which is the best rule), 
 supposing it would lay fairer on the side of the bolsters than too 
 close to the mast-head. This precaution is hardly necessary, as 
 the rigging will stretch sufficiently in pulling up to bring the 
 seizing down, no matter how much it may have been stretched 
 before being warped round for cutting. 
 
 Rigging cut on the above old plan, causes great waste in 
 squaring off the ends, after fitting the eyes, previous to turning- 
 in the dead-eyes. I would therefore recommend (if not in a great 
 
5 to ij P'} 'J 3a s 40 5 so s L0 s la 3 eo s <io s iia s lo is 20 5 ont 
 
 Sketch of a Draft for cutting rigging. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 4R 
 
 hurry) a more economical plan. Get the shroud-warp on a 
 stretch, or rather one end of it, long enough for one pair of 
 shrouds ; mark off the distance for the required service, and when 
 completed — ^being wormed, parceled, and served, while on a taut 
 stretch — measure the length with a tape-line, from draft of first 
 pair of shrouds, No. 1 starboard; when measured and chalked 
 the required length, " come up the stretch," and cut at the chalk- 
 mark ; middle the shroud at the centre of the service, and lay it 
 on the loft floor. Continue fitting, and cutting, in this way until 
 you get the number of shrouds required for the gang, allowing 
 each pair of shrouds to lap over the diameter of the rope at the 
 eye, as they are laid on the loft floor ; alternately making due 
 allowance at the ends, before cutting, for the carry aft, or the 
 jump of a port, if required. {See Plate.) 
 
 Note. — In measuring the length of the shrouds, some prefer 
 the distance from the opposite side of the mast-head to the part- 
 ners, added to half the breadth of the deck, from the mast to the 
 side. 
 
 In parceling, begin at each end where the service is to leave 
 off, and parcel upwards to the middle of the eye, where com- 
 mence serving dovmwards on each leg. The eye seizings are 
 round ones, and when put on, the whole eye is neatly covered 
 with parceling. A half-sister block is sometimes put between 
 the two forward shrouds, for the lower boom topping lift to lead 
 through. 
 
 87.— TOPMAST AND TOP-GALLANT EIGGING 
 
 Is cut in the same manner. In fitting the topmast rigging, 
 always seize-in a sister-block between the two forward shrouds, 
 for the topsail lift and reef tackles. The swifters are generally 
 served the whole length. 
 •The eyes of the top-gallant rigging are made to fit exactly 
 around the cylinder ; if there is an odd topmast, or top-gallant 
 shroud, on each side, they are either fitted with a horse-shoe 
 eye, or go together with a cut splice. 
 
 88.— BREAST AND STANDING BACKSTAYS. 
 
 These may be cut by the same rule ; the eyes of the breast 
 backstays are fitted in diflferent ways. They are sometimes 
 spanned together, making a square, the size of the mast-head ; 
 sometimes they have an eye like the shrouds, made to fit close ; 
 ctnd others have a small eye seized in the bight, and lashed 
 
46 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 round the mast-head. The eyes of the standing backstays are 
 fitted Hke those of the shrouds. 
 
 89.— CAT HARPEN LEGS, AND FUTTOCK SHROUDS. 
 
 Take one-third the breadth of the top, and lay of that distance 
 from the eye-seizing, down upon the shrouds, each side ; draw a 
 line across which will represent the cat harpens, and measured 
 on the scale, will give their length ; splice in eyes at each end ; 
 worm, parcel, serve, and leather them. The distance fiom the 
 extremity of the top and this line upon the shroud, Avill give the 
 length of the futtock shrouds, which must have a hook and thim- 
 ble in their upper ends, and a thimble in theh lower ends. 
 
 90.— FORE-AND-AET STAYS. 
 
 Measure from the after parts of the mast-head to where the 
 stays set up, and to this distance add the length of the mast- 
 head, for collars. 
 
 Collars for stays are the length of their respective mast-heads. 
 The mousings are raised once-and-a-half the size of the stays, 
 and at a distance equal to twice the length of the mast-head from 
 the mousing. A Flemish eye is worked on the end, and the stay 
 rove through it ; or they may be fitted with lashing eyes, in which 
 case each leg is the length of the mast-head ; the service is con- 
 tinued the length of the eye below the mousing, the collars 
 leathered, and the hearts turned in with the lay of the rope. 
 Stays are wormed, parcelled, served, and leathered in the wake 
 of aU nipps, such as the bees, bullock-blocks, and sheave-holes. 
 
 91.— CUTTING LOWER MAST HEAD-PENDANTS. 
 
 The forward pair should be twice the length of the mast-head 
 — the after pair twice-and-a-half; thimbles are spUced in the 
 ends, and they are wormed or spanned together, so as to form a 
 span to fit the mast-head. 
 
 92 — BOBSTAYS. 
 
 The bobstays are cut twice the length from the collars, on the 
 bowsprit, to their respective holes on the cutwater. They are 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 47 
 
 wormed, parceled, and served ihe whole length, and leathered in 
 the nipp, after which they are rove through the holes, spliced to- 
 gether, and the dead eyes turned in, in the wake of a splice. 
 
 93.— BOWSPKIT SHROUDS. 
 
 The length from the bowsprit to the eye-bolts in the bows ; a 
 dead-eye or heart is spliced into one end, and a hook and thimble 
 in the other. 
 
 94.— JIB AND FLYING JIB GUYS. 
 
 Take the distance from the boom-end to the bows, making a 
 small allowance for reeving through the straps on the spritsail 
 yard. They are generally fitted with a cuckold's neck over the 
 boom end, and set up with dead-eyes to the bows. The cuck- 
 old's neck is served or covered with canvass. The guys in the 
 wake of the spritsail yard are leathered. The martingales must 
 be cut, and fitted to the manner in which they are rove. 
 
 95.— CUTTING RUNNING RIGGING. 
 
 The greater part of the running rigging may be cut as it is 
 rove, making due allowance for the hands to clap on. The 
 length and size may also be got from the rigging table for all 
 classes in the navy (see rigging tables). The most proper way 
 to ascertain the length of a rope is from the draft, or rigging 
 plan of the vessel you are employed upon, making the proper 
 allowance for leading out, «fcc., &c. 
 
 96.— RIGGING SHEERS, AND TAKING IN MASTS AND 
 
 BOWSPRIT. 
 
 In cases where there is neither sheers nor wharf to have re- 
 course to, in order to get the lower masts on board, it becomes 
 necessary to get such spars as can be procured, and erect a pair 
 of sheers on board for that puipose. 
 
 In doing this proceed as follows : — Take in a sufiiciency of 
 ballast to steady the ship, and shore the decks from the skin up. 
 
IS THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 
 
 patticularly abreast of the partners. Sling skids up and down 
 the sides : reeve the parbuckles, and bring the sheer legs along- 
 side, with their small ends aft ; parbuckle them on board, raise 
 one leg over the capstan, and their heads or after ends resting 
 either on the taffrail, the break of the poop, or a spar placed in 
 the most convenient spot, the more elevated the better. Square 
 the heels exactly one with the other, so that when they come to 
 be raised the legs may be found of equal height. 
 
 As near the after ends of the spars as may be considered 
 necessary, when crossed, put on the head-lasliing of new, 
 well-stretched rope {jigure-ofS fashion), similar to a racking 
 seizing, and cross with the ends. Open out the heels, carrying 
 one over to each gangway, and placing it on a solid piece of oak 
 or shoe, previously prepared for the purpose. Clap stout tackles 
 on the heels, two on each, one leading forward, the other aft ; 
 set taut the after ones, and belay them. Lash a three or four-fold 
 block, as the upper one of the main purchase, over the main 
 lashing (so that it will hang plumb under the cross), with can- 
 vass underneath to prevent chafing ; and in such a manner that 
 one-half the turns of the lashing may go over each horn of the 
 sheers, and divide the strain equally ; also sufficiently long to 
 secure the free action of the block. Lash the small purchase 
 block on the after horn of the sheers, sufficiently high for the 
 falls to play clear of each other, and a girtline block above all. 
 
 Middle a couple of hawsers, and clove-hitch them over the 
 sheer heads — having two ends leading forward, and two abaft, 
 led through viol blocks, and stout luffs clapped on them. These 
 should be sufficiently strong to secure the sheers while lifting the 
 masts. 
 
 The lower purchase block is lashed forward (perhaps round 
 the cut-water), and the fall being rove, the sheers are raised by 
 heaving upon it, and preventing the heels from slipping forward, 
 by means of the heel tackles previously mentioned. 
 
 Sometimes a small pair of sheers are erected for the purpose 
 of raising the heads of the large ones ; in which case care must 
 be taken to place them so as to allow the heads or horns of the 
 other pair to pass through. 
 
 When the sheeis are up, or nearly perpendicular, cleat the 
 shoes, so as to confine the heels to their places upon them. They 
 can then be transported along the deck by means of the heel- 
 tackles and guys to the situation required, taking care to make 
 *them rest upon a beam, and to have the deck properly shored up 
 below. 
 
 Finally, give the sheers the necessary rake by means of the 
 guys, and set taut all the guys and heel-tackles. Also, five or 
 six feet above the deck, on each leg, put two cleats, for the pur- 
 pose of applying two stout lashings from them above, to the dead- 
 eyes in the channels below, in order to give greater security ; this 
 being done, the sheers may be considered ready. {iSee Plate). 
 
Masting and Dismasting. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 49 
 
 Note. — The skids which are slung up and down the sides, are 
 for the purpose of keeping the sheer-legs clear of the channels, 
 and from thence to the plank shear. Mats should also be placed 
 over the quarter galleys to prevent injury. 
 
 Parbuckles are hawsers which are middled ; the ends of which 
 are taken through two ports which are about five or six ports 
 apart, from outside, in ; down over the rail, under the sheer legs ; 
 up again through snatch blocks, in the opposite water-ways, and 
 luffs clapped on them. The couijter parbuckles are used to ease 
 the sheer legs down on deck, and are rove through the gun-deck 
 ports. Mats should be placed in the wake of the chafe, where 
 the parbuckle leads over the rail, or up through the gun-deck 
 ports. 
 
 The parbuckling on board of heavy spars for sheers may be 
 much facilitated at times, and injury to the ship avoided, by at- 
 tending to circumstances, and getting them in at slack water, or 
 over the bows or stern. 
 
 When a ship is confined to her o\yn resources, the lower yards 
 are the best spars for sheers ; the heels (or yard-arms resting on 
 the deck) being strengthened where they taper by a temporary 
 fish, woolded on, and the woolding set up by wedges. 
 
 In a brig, the main yard and main boom are the best spars 
 for sheers (if other spars are not available). 
 
 The shoes are made o,f either stout oak plank or beam timbers 
 of pine, and long enough to extend over at least three beams, 
 with a saucer in them for the heels to rest in ; likewise, mortices 
 or bolts in each end for lashing. The spare caps will be found 
 veiy handy for placing the heels of the spars in, and the eye- 
 bolts in them convenient for hooking the heel-tackles, and trans- 
 porting along the decks. 
 
50 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 97.— TO TAKE IN THE MIZEN-MAST. 
 
 Tow the mizen-mast alongside, with the head aft, and the gar- 
 land* lashed on to the forward part of the mast, at the distance 
 from the tennon to just above the spar deck partners ; lash a pair 
 of girtline blocks on the mast-head, and reeve the girtlines ; bend 
 the sheer-head girtline to the mast below the bibbs to cant it. 
 Overhaul the main purchase down abaft, thrust the strap through 
 the eyes of the garland, toggle it, and secure the toggle by a back- 
 lashing. Take the fall to the capstan and " heave round ;" when 
 the heel rises near the rail, hook on a heel-tackle to ease it in- 
 board. Get the mast fair for lowering by means of the givtlines, 
 have carpenters attending below, wipe the tennon dry, and white 
 lead both it and the step, "lower away," and step the mast. 
 
 Pass a couple of straps around the mast ; to each of these 
 hook the double blocks of the pendant tackles — the single ones 
 
 * Garlands are made of new rope, -well stretched (salvagee fashion), marled 
 together and parceled. They are laid on the forward part of the mast, a stout 
 lashing ])ut on over all, and crossed between the garland and the mast ; — a good 
 dogging also, if necessary, passed downward. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 51 
 
 10 the sides, and hauled taut ; wedge the mast temporai-ily. 
 " come up " the purchases, man the guy and heel tackles, wet 
 the_ decks, and transport the sheers forward for taking in the 
 main-mast. 
 
 The object of taking in the mizen-mast first is, because the 
 breadth of beam is less aft than forward ; and the heels of the 
 sheers being spread more as they go forward, the head lashing 
 consequently becomes tauter ; moreover, if the mizen-mast was 
 taken in last, the bowsprit must be got in. first, and thus the ad- 
 vantage of securing ,the sheers to the foremast-head, when get- 
 ting in the bowsprit, would be lost. 
 
 98.— TO TAKE IN THE MAIN AND FOREMAST. 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as in getting in the mizen mast. 
 The garland for the small purchase should be lashed about the 
 diameter of the mast, above the main purchase. 
 
 In taking in either of the masts, if the sheers should be found 
 to be a few inches short, the difficulty may be remedied by man- 
 ning the forward guy-falls, and bringing the sheers perpendicu- 
 J.ar to the deck. Some distance may also be saved by using no 
 garlands and having the purchase blocks lapihed to the mast. 
 If in lowering there should still be a difficulty, chocks might be 
 placed on the kelson until the tennon rested on them ; then steady 
 the mast by means of the small purchase and sheer-head girt- 
 lines, while the main purchase is unlashed, and lashed again on 
 the mast sufficiently high to step it. 
 
 If the ship has a top-gallant forecastle, it would be well to step 
 the mast forward of the sheer legs, for the brake of the forecas- 
 tle comes abreast of the partners ; and, in a case of this kind, it 
 would be well to take in the foremast first. 
 
 99.— TO TAKE IN THE BOWSPRIT. 
 
 Transport the sheers as far fonvard as possible, or as the bows 
 will permit ; send a hand to the sheer-head, bend on the girtlines 
 to the small purchase block to light it up, unlash it, and lash it 
 again to the forward fork or horns of the sheers, pass a strap 
 round the foremast-head, to which hook a large tackle, carry it 
 well aft, and haul it taut, for the purpose of staying the mast. 
 Lash a couple of large single blocks to the foremast-head, middle 
 a hawser, and clove-hitch it over the sheer-head ; reeve the ends 
 through the blocks at the mast-head, down on deck, carry them 
 well aft, and take a turn. Hook the after heel-tackles forward^ 
 
52 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR, 
 
 and take the after-guys aft ; pass a bulwark lashing round eacn. 
 heel, rake the sheers over the bows sufficiently for the main pur- 
 chase to hang directly over the gammoning scuttle, and make 
 
 all fast. 
 
 The bowsprit being brought under the bows, with the head 
 forward, and the garlands lashed on, the main one a little more 
 than one-third from the heel, the smaller one between the cap 
 and bees, having guys leading from the bowsprit to the cat-heads, 
 and a couple of straps round the heel for hooking the bedding 
 tackles. Overhaul down the purchases and toggle them ; " sway 
 away," attending it by the guys, until nearly perpendicular ; hook 
 on the bedding tackles, which are taken from the bitts on the 
 main deck, and led up through the partners ; wipe the tennon 
 dry, and white-lead both it and the mortice; "lower away," bouse 
 upon the bedding tackles, and bring it into its place ; come up 
 purchases, guys, unlash garlands, and proceed to dismantle the 
 
 SilGGl'S 
 
 If the ship has a topgallant forecastle, you will be unable to 
 take in the bowsprit with the sheers without the assistance oi a 
 derrick* on account of the brake of the forecastle, it not being 
 prudent to step sheers on the top of it. 
 
 When the ship is masted, and alongside the yard, commence 
 getting on board and stowing ballast and tanks ; fit the rudder, 
 gammon the bowsprit, fit and set up the bob stays and bowsprit 
 shrouds ; fit fore stay collars ; get on board tops, caps, cross-trees, 
 topmasts and topgallant masts, placing lower yards athwart ships, 
 topsail and topgallant yards amidships ; also, have ready tackles 
 and luffs for setting up the rigging and staying the masts, top- 
 blocks with lashings for top-ropes, and all the rigging at hand 
 and in order. 
 
 lOO.— GAMMONING THE BOWSPRIT. 
 
 In rigging a stage under the bowsprit for this purpose, make 
 use of two small spars, such as topgallant studding-sail booms, 
 with their heels lashed to the head-rail, their heads frapped toge- 
 ther, and slung from the bowsprit end, and boards laid across 
 from one to the other. 
 
 The gammoning is of new, well-stretched rope, generally 
 water-laid. One end of the gammoning being whipt, is passed 
 through the hole in the cutwater, and over the bowsprit with a 
 round turn, then clenched round the bowsprit close against the 
 stop or cleats ; the other end passes through the forepart of the 
 hole in the cutwater, again round the bowsprit (but before the 
 
 * See Derrick, in Miscellaneous Articles. 
 
OR YOUN(^ BAILORS' ASSISTANT. 53 
 
 clinch), and again through the hole in the cutwater, abaft the 
 first turn. All the succeeding turns go in the same way, laying 
 forward on the bowsprit and aft in the cutwater, and all are 
 passed inside of the first turns ; by which means the outer turns 
 on the bowsprit which bear the most strain are more preserved 
 from chafing than the inner ones. 
 
 The turns are then hove taut as follows : — ^A leading block is 
 made fast to the holes for the bobstays by a strap long enough 
 to admit of the pendant, which is then rove through it, leading 
 straight through the hawse-hole to the capstan. In one end of 
 this pendant an eye is spliced, through which a bight of the 
 gammoning is passed, and retained by means of a toggle, while 
 to the other end is hooked a long tackle, and the fall led to the 
 capstan. As each turn is hove taut, it is, by some, nailed to the 
 bowsprit, and by others, racked in several places, which is pre- 
 ferable to nailing.* 
 
 When all the turns are passed and hove taut, they are frapped 
 together by as many crossturns as are passed on the bowsprit. 
 The end is then whipped and seized to one of the turns. 
 
 In ships with two gammonings, the outer one is hove taut first, 
 as it would otherwise slack the inner one. 
 
 Note. — Iron gammoning is now allowed for vessels of all 
 classes in the service. {See Rigging Table.) 
 
 101.— FITTING EiaaiNG. 
 
 The shroud is hove well taut, with a tackle clapped on one 
 end, and the other secured to a sampson post. It is wormed, 
 parceled, and served a third down from the seizing ; the swifter 
 or foremost shroud all the way, except where the dead-eye is 
 turned in. A sword mat is sometimes laced on the foremost 
 shroud, which, I think, answers much better, as it can be taken 
 oflf and the rope dried ; and, from the diflTerent ropes I have seen 
 rotted under the service, I feel convinced, the less on rigging, 
 unless where absolutely necessary, the better. 
 
 In parceling the eyes, commence from each end of the service 
 and finish in the centre, and pass several riding parts, as in 
 breaking the shroud to form the eye, the service gets opened, 
 which allows the wet to get in ; and if the service is begun in 
 the centre, doubled, and then passed toward each end, it will 
 prevent the wet getting to the rope. 
 
 In forming the eye, take a good strand, knot both ends toge- 
 ther, and lay it across both parts of the shroud ; having brought 
 them as close together as possible, pass both bights of the strand 
 
 * See Gammoning the Bowsprit, in Miscellaneous Articles. 
 
54 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR : 
 
 under the shroud clear of each other ; then place a long- belt 
 across, close to the strand on the upper side; take a round 
 turn round the bolt with each bight of the strand on each side 
 of the shroud, put a smaller bolt through each eye in the strand, 
 and heave it round the long bolt, and as the turns accumulate 
 on the bolt, both parts of the shroud come together ; when quite 
 close pass the eye seizing, the shroud being previously parceled 
 m the way of it. 
 
 When there is an odd on each side, it is fitted horse-shoe fash- 
 ion to fit the mast-head ; parceled, and served over a third down 
 the same as the other shrouds. I have seen the odd shroud put 
 on the mast-head first (after the pendants), instead of last ; and 
 then the others put on in rotation : No. 1 starboard. No. 2 lair- 
 board, No. 3 starboard, (fcc. (fee. 
 
 102.— FITTING MAST-HEAD PENDANTS. 
 
 The long leg, when two, should be a third of the shroud. 
 The eye is formed the same as the shroud : wormed, parceled, <fec. 
 A thimble is spliced in each end, the ends put in once and a- 
 half, marled down, and served over. The formost leg is once 
 and a-half the round of the rope shorter than the after one. The 
 thimbles are well parceled before being spliced in. 
 
 Small ships have only one pendant on each side ; when this 
 is the case, the rope is cut to the proper length, the starboard pen- 
 dant is spliced into the larboard, and the larboard into the star- 
 board, with a cut spUce forming an eye, or span, to fit the square 
 of the mast-head ; a thimble is spliced into each end, and they 
 are wormed, parceled and sei'ved ; — they are the same length as 
 a long leg, when a pair on each side. 
 
 103.— LOWEK AND TOPMAST STAYS. 
 
 Stays are four stranded, and are now both the same size, and 
 lashed abaft the mast-heads. The legs are made for the collar in 
 laymg up. When sufficient length is laid up for the stay, from 
 whence the collar commences to the end for setting up two 
 strands, one for each, are left sufficiently long to double back 
 and are then laid up as four strands, forming the lashing eyes 
 and legs. The ends of the strands are then unlaid, the inside 
 ones wormed mto the lay of the rope; the other strands are divi- 
 ded, laid up, and worked in alongside the first strands ; then tjome 
 more yarns are twisted smaller and used as backing ; some in- 
 side yarns from each strand should be wormed into the stay theii 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 55 
 
 whole length, below the crotch ; the legs are then wormed, so as 
 to completely fill the rope, commencing from the centre of the 
 eyes for lashing, which should be well opened with a largo set- 
 ing fid, and worming carried into the stay as far down as the 
 worming of the legs. The outside yarns of the legs are then 
 marled down, over all, round the stay, tapering the ends. The 
 legs are well parceled and served, and likewise the stay, sufficiently 
 far down to take the lower yards, and covered -vrtth tanned hide. 
 
 The stays should be hove well oufVith purchases, and allowed 
 to hang, pulling up occasionally. I have known a line-of-battle 
 ship's stays (cable laid rope) to stretch out twelve feet, and after 
 a two month's cruise were long enough to allow nearly two feet 
 to be taken off the fore-stays. 
 
 Stays fitted with lashing eyes are decidedly preferable, as they 
 are easier shifted ; the collars not being so long the yards can be 
 slung higher up, and consequently braced further forward. 
 
 In the iherchant service the stays are also fitted on the bight, 
 or two in one, as follows: the bight is put over the, mast-head 
 and both ends taken forward and set up in their respective places. 
 Others again put the bight under the bowsprit and set them up 
 abaft the mast head, with lashing eyes, putting on a seizing at 
 the proper place to form the collar. This last plan would not 
 answer for a ship of war. 
 
 104.— TO KIG THE FOREMAST. 
 
 White-lead the mast-head in the wake of the trestle-trees, over 
 haul down the girtlines, bend on the trestle-trees and sway them 
 on board ; take out the after chock, wipe them dry, bend the 
 girtlines to the forward part and stop the girtlines to the after 
 part ; bend the main girtline to the after part also ; " sway away," 
 having a steadying-line forward to keep the trestle-trees from 
 catching under the bibbs, for if they should be heavy, one man 
 aloft will not be able to bear them off; when above the bibbs, 
 send a hand aloft to slip the stops, one at a time, so as to let 
 them come down gradually. "Lower away," bouse on the after 
 girtlines, and get the trestle-trees in their places ; send aloft the 
 after chock, ship and bolt it. Tar the mast-head in the way of 
 the rigging ; overhaul down the girtlines for the bolsters, which 
 are tarred and parceled ; sway them aloft and stop them ; lash 
 the girtline blocks to the after part of trestle-trees. 
 
 The rigging is then sent up by the girtlines in the following 
 manner : — 
 
 Mast head pendants. — Foremost pair of shrouds, starboara 
 side; foremost pair of shrouds, larboard side; second pair of 
 shrouds, starboard side ; second pair of shrouds, larboard side, 
 
55 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 and so on until all the shrouds are over, after which send up the 
 stay, and last of all the preventer or spring-stay. 
 
 Placing the rigging.— The girtlines being overhauled down 
 send aloft the lower pendants, which have got a long and 
 short leg, fitted together with a span, or square, the size of the 
 mast-head ; the long leg is placed abaft, -so that in case of the 
 forestay being shot away, the pendant tackles can be hooked in 
 them without being in the way of the fore-yard in bracing ; while 
 the leg being abaft, the mast affords them good security. As soon 
 as the mast-head pendants are placed they ought to be lashed 
 abaft, the tackles hooked, and the mast stayed by them. 
 Overhaul down the girtlines, bend the mast-head one on the 
 shroud, with a timber-hitch, or toggle, four or five feet below the 
 seizing, and stop it to the centre of the eye ; take the girtline 
 from the after trestle-tree, and bend it half way dovm the shroud ; 
 "sway away," on the lower girtline, and lift the weight of the 
 shroud. When high enough, the stop in the eye is cut, and it 
 will fall over the mast-head ; the men on the trestle-tress placing 
 it fair on the bolsters, beating it well down, with commanders, 
 and observing to have the eye-seizing come as near the centre 
 of the mast-head as possible. The larboard pair is got up in the 
 same manner, and so on until all are placed. Reeve the lan- 
 yards, if prepared with a knot on the end ; a double-wall and 
 crowned is preferable, a mathew-walker being liable to capsize ; 
 the lanyard should be rove through the hole under the end of 
 the shroud, because in setting it up, the strain comes on the 
 shroud first, and keeps the dead-eye in its place ; if put under 
 the standing part, the strain coming on the end first, the dead- 
 eye would slue round. 
 
 Setting up the lower rigging. — The rigging is often placea 
 and then set up, but I would prefer (if time would permit) having 
 it pulled up as placed. When the first pair on each side are 
 over and placed, and the lanyards rove through both dead-eyes, 
 clap a selvagee strap on each shroud well up ; to this hook the 
 singlp block of a lutT tackle ; the double, to a blackwall hitch in 
 the lanyard; then take the lower blocks of the pendant tackles 
 and hook them to both the falls of the luffs on each side ; reeve 
 the tackle falls through the leading blocks, and pull up, setting 
 up both pair of shrouds atthesametime,themen on the trestle-trees 
 beating the shroud down as pulled up ; when well up, place two 
 pair more, and proceed in this manner until the mast is rigged.* 
 
 The advantage of pulling up a pair at each side, instead of 
 singly, is evident from the fact that pulling up singly injures the 
 seizing ; as it is first dragged forward and then aft by the after 
 
 • See note on lower rigging. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 57 
 
 ieg, it is liable to slack the seizing, and perhaps snap the inside 
 turns. 
 
 In rigging the lower masts, I have seen the after swifter go 
 over first ; a plan that is now adopted in small vessels. In stay- 
 ing the mast these swifters should be set taut, the mast being 
 previously wedged, and the stays set steadily up. I have heard 
 some old sailors dispute this plan, it being new, but for my own 
 part I think well of it. 
 
 Note. — The trestle-trees might be got over without knocking 
 out the after-chocks, by running up a derrick abaft the mast, 
 well lashed abaft below the bibbs, having chocks placed between 
 it and the mast, sufficient to admit of the free passage of the after 
 chock of the trestle-trees. They are sometimes got on before 
 getting in the mast, but they then bring in an additional and 
 unnecessary weight upon the mast-head, and moreover, in low- 
 ering, catch over the shear-head. 
 
 N. B. The blocks for topmast stays should be put on after the 
 aScond pair of shrouds (on foremast). 
 
 105.— FUTTOCK SHROUDS 
 
 Are now fitted, and hooked to the fiittock plates in the top, and 
 set up to an iron band round the mast. In small vessels these 
 are iron, and set up with turnbuckles, or screws. Cat-harpena 
 are seldom used, being considered unnecessary lumber alott. 
 
 Abife.— The futtock shrouds are hooked to their respective 
 plates, iDith the points of the hooks in. 
 
58 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 106.— TO RI& THE MAIN AND MIZEN-MAST. 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as directed for the foremast 
 The mainmast of a frigate has one more pair of shouds than the 
 foremast, and the mizen-mast three less. The mizen-mast 
 has only one pendant on each side, fitted with a cut-splice, and 
 
 thimble spliced in each end. The rigging is placed the same 
 as the fore or. main; the mast is steadied into its place with a 
 couple of long burtons, one to each pendant, and hooked to straps 
 round the bitts, or to ring-bolts in the fore part of the quarter- 
 deck bulwarks. If the stays are not ready for going up, the 
 tackles can be hooked to a lashing round the mast, the pendants 
 being wanted to pull up the rigging (for placing) ; the rigging is 
 the same as the fore. 
 
 In setting up the main-stays, pass one under, the other over, 
 around the cross-piece in the four bitts, for the purpose ; clap the 
 selvagee straps well up the stay, and two more near the ends ; 
 to these hook two luffs ; to the falls of the luffs hook the lower 
 blocks of main tackles ; reeve their falls through leading blocks, 
 in as direct a line with the stay as possible, and grease the bitts 
 in the way of the stay. 
 
 In placing the main stays, in the manner mentioned above, 
 there is sufficient space between tbe stays for a shot to pass 
 through, which often prevents their being both cut away at the 
 same time. 
 
 When the rigging is to be set up for a full due, the stays in the 
 way of the bitts are well wormed, parceled, served, and covered 
 with hide ; and the ends of the stays, and all the lower rigging 
 whipped, and covered with canvass caps (neatly fitted). 
 
 107.— TO RIG THE BOWSPRIT. 
 
 Bobstays. — The rope should be well stretched, wormed, par- 
 celed, and sei-ved, and in the way of the cutwater covered with 
 leather ; when none is to be had, pass two parts of parceling, the 
 first against, the second with the lay of the rope ; and serve with 
 good stout spun-yarn, or four-yarn plait ; then reeve them through 
 the cutwater, splice both ends together, put the strands in once 
 each way, niarl down, and serve over. The hearts are then se- 
 cured m then- place (keeping the splice on the upper side) with a 
 round seizmg, with parceling under it. They are sometimes fit- 
 ted to shackle to the cutwater, with iron plates let in flush with 
 the wood, a bolt going through both plates, which is very snug 
 and stronsf. r ; j a 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 59 
 
 Bowsprit Shrouds are single pieces of rope. 
 Whea cut the required lengtli (a hook and thim- 
 ble), the latter parceled, is spliced into one end, 
 put in once and-a-half. marled down and served 
 over ; a heart is spliced into the other. Aftei 
 being hooked to eye-bolts in the bows for the 
 purpose, they are set up to their collars on the 
 bowsprit. 
 
 A celebrated master (now a commander) in 
 the navy, ami a first rate seaman, never served 
 the bowsprit rigging all over ; it is, certainly, 
 in my opinion, better not to do so, as the water can never lodge^ 
 which it may do, by getting in from broken service, which can- 
 not be repaired at sea. They are now fitted one-third chain, on 
 account of the chain cable chafing against them. 
 
 It is not unusual, in small vessels, to insert thimbles instead 
 of hearts in the bobstays, bowsprit shrouds, and collars ; covering 
 the lanyards neatly afterwards, with canvass. 
 
 Placing the rigging. — Tar well the bowsprit ; then put on 
 the first forestay collar, first pair bowsprit shroud collars, first 
 bobstay collar ; second bobstay collar ; second pair of shroud 
 collars ; spring-stay collar ; and cap bobstay collar ; then heave 
 them close up, pass and heave well on with a rose-lashing. 
 
 The man-ropes are spliced, or hooked into bolts in the bowsprit 
 cap, and in the other end an eye is spliced ; ends put in once-and- 
 a-half, and set up with a lanyard to an eye-bolt in knight-heads 
 or stanchions, for the purpose ; splices served over, and leathered 
 in the nip. 
 
 The goblines* are either clove-hitched, or may be fitted with 
 a cuckold's neck around the end of the dolphin-striker, and set 
 up to the bows, one on each side. 
 
 108 GETTING THE TOPS OVER 
 
 WJioletops. — Overhaul the girtlines for the cross-trees, white- 
 le,ad the squares in the trestle-trees, and ship them. The girt- 
 lines being on each side of the mast-head are then overhauled 
 down for the tops; one end is passed from underneath, and up 
 through the hole for futtock plate and hitched to the standing 
 part ; the girtline can be rove down through one of the holes in 
 the edge of lubber's hole ; the girtline stopped to the foremost 
 edge, to holes bored for the purpose. A girtline is taken from 
 
 * Called back-ropes by some. 
 
(30 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 the mizen-mast-head, and bent to the foremost part of maintop 
 bend on a tripping line to the pigeon hole leading from the fore 
 mast-head. Man the girtlines and "sway away;" when suf- 
 ficiently high to allow the foremost edge of lubber's hole to 
 clear the mast-head, cut the stops ^nd cant it over by the trip- 
 ping line, and the top will hang in the girtlines, when it can be 
 lowered, placed, and bolted. 
 
 I have seen girtlines bent from the foremost part of the fore-top 
 to the bowsprit end ; and from foremast to the forward part of 
 the maintop ; and from mainmast to foremost part of mizen-top, 
 to assist in getting the tops over ; but if they are properly slung 
 it is not necessary. 
 
 The dead-eyes for the top;mast rigging can now be hauled up, 
 and put in their places in the top-rims : and also ship the top-rail, 
 and stanchions in their respective places. 
 
 109.— GETTING HALF-TOPS OVER. 
 
 Unlash the girtline blocks from each side of the mast-head, 
 and lash them on the foremost and after sides ; send the end of 
 the foremost girtline down abaft all, the other between the cross- 
 trees. 
 
 If the starboard half is to be got over, place it on the deck with 
 its upper side up, or on its edge with the upper side aft. Take 
 the foremost girtline, reeve it down through the foremost hole, 
 by lubber's hole for the purpose, (or from aft forward, if on its 
 edge,) take it underneath the top, and if the hole for the futtock 
 plate will take it, reeve it up, (or from forward, aft, if on its edge,) 
 and half hitch it to the mast-head, or standing part ; then take 
 the mast-head part under the top, (if on its edge, to the foremost 
 side,) and seize it well to the foremost corner with a piece of small 
 rope, through a hole bored for the purpose. Take the after girt- 
 hne, reeve it the same way through the after hole bored for the 
 purpose m the after part of lubber's hole ; pass, and half-hitch it 
 the same way as the fore one, and secure it with a good seizing 
 of small rope, through another hole bored in the foremost corner. 
 If the futtock holes will not take the girtlines, stop them with 
 spun-yarn. The top should be so balanced in the girtlines, as 
 to hang fan- when the stops are cut. Reeve the other ends of 
 the gnthnes through the leading blocks ; man them, and sway 
 up the top with the after girtline; at the same time taking'in 
 the slack of the fore one. Have men stationed at the trestle-trees 
 to bear off, cut the stops, and place. When the edge is clear of 
 the cross-trees, cut the after stop and sway on both girtlines ; 
 and when the foremost corner is well up, cut the stops ; the top 
 m[[ then hang m the girtlines, and can be easily placed. Shift 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. gl 
 
 the girtlines for the larboard half, get it up the same way, bolt 
 and secure the top. Shift the girthnes on each side of the mast 
 head, as they were before. A girtline from the mizenmast-head 
 is sometimes bent to the foremost edge of the main-top, to assist 
 in bearing off; (it can be dispensed with ;) a rope's end bent to the 
 top and hauled well aft, will answer the same purpose. Half- 
 tops may be swayed up, before the cross trees are sent aloft, and 
 hung to the mast-head, one half on each side, swayed chock 
 up ; then send up the cross-trees, and bolt them to the trestle- 
 trees ; lower the half tops down on the cross-trees ; place and 
 secure them as before. 
 
 Note. — In cold weather it would be best to get the tops over 
 before rigging the masts, in order to give the men a more secure 
 place for standing while placing the rigging ; and in this case a 
 derrick rigged on the top would be the best way to get the rig- 
 ing over in a heavy ship. (If the topmast is pointed and swayed 
 about six feet above the lower mast-head, it will make a good 
 derrick for getting the lower rigging over.) 
 
 no.— GETTING UP TOP-BLOCKS, &c. 
 
 Top-blocks are large single blocks, having iron sti'aps, which 
 are formed after being put round the block, into a large hook. 
 Overhaul down the girtlines through lubber's hole ; bend one 
 part through the sheave hole of the block, and stop it to the back 
 part of the hook ; hoist it up, and lash it to the mast-head around 
 the hook, with a lashing long enough to allow the block to hang 
 half-mast-head high. Through this block reeve a hawser ; send 
 the foremost end down through the square hole in the foremost 
 part of the trestle-trees ; the after end through the lubber's hole 
 through a leading block on deck, and round the capstan. 
 
 111.— GETTING UP THE TOPMAST. 
 
 Take two half-hitches through the fid-hole, with the foremost 
 end of the hawser, and stop the hawser well round the hounds 
 of the topmast with a good lashing. Man the capstan, and heave 
 the mast up and down. Unbend the hawser, reeve it through 
 the sheave-hole in the topmast; send a hauUng hne down 
 through the trestle-trees for the end of the hawser, which haul 
 
62 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR , 
 
 up and clinch round the lower mast-head over the block. Over- 
 haul the girtUnes down before all, and get the cap into the top. 
 
 Note. — Pendant tackles may be used to a greater advantage 
 than a hawser in pointing a topmast, when light handed. 
 
 113.— GETTING THE CAP INTO THE TOP. 
 
 Bend the foremost end of the girtlines, which were sent down 
 before all, through the round hole in the cap, and stop them along 
 to the after part of the square hole, keeping the bolts in the cap up* 
 Man the girtlines and " sway away," bearing well off the fore part 
 of the top. When high enough, lower, and place the round hole over 
 the square hole in the trestle-trees. Sway the topmast well through 
 and lash it securely to the cap ; put a capstan bar in the fid-hole 
 with a hauling line on the end, and heave the topmast up ; 
 when the cap is clear of the lower mast-head, haul on the line 
 from the bar in the heel of the topmast, and it will slue the mast 
 and bring the square hole of the cap over the lower masthead ; 
 ship the cap-shore, then lower the hawser, or tackle, and place 
 the cap, beating it into its place. Land the mast, unreeve the 
 hawser, unlash the top blocks, and hook them to their proper 
 bolts on each side of the cap ; reeve the hawser through one 
 block, through the trestle-trees, through the sheave in the top-mast, 
 up through trestle-trees again, and reeve the end through the 
 foiemost bolt in the cap on the opposite side of the block ; before 
 reeving it through, parcel it well ; take two half-hitches on its 
 own, or standing part, and secure the end with a round seiz- 
 ing of spun-yarn. Bring the hawser to the capstan, heave the 
 topmast up and try the fit ; (then lower away, get the topmast on 
 deck, and try the other set) ; and then lower the mast for rigging. 
 Secure ^the girtline blocks to eye-bolts in the cap, orAo the top- 
 mast cross-trees. 
 
 Note.— The stop should be taken off the hounds of the topmast, 
 diiectly It IS pointed through the trestle-trees ; and when getting on 
 deck, after it is landed, single the hawser the same as when get- 
 ting up and down, and stop it to the hounds; then have slip 
 ropes on the heel to haul it forward or aft, whether fore or main, 
 and place it on the chocks, for stowing on the booms. A fore- 
 topmast is generally stowed with the head forward ; a main with 
 the head aft ; both heads are sometnnes stowed forward, a prac- 
 tice tliat is frequently adopted at the present day. 
 
 * The object ^,f keeping tlw bolls %p in getting the cap into the top, is that they 
 may not catch or. the top rim and cause delay, and perhaps injury. (U is vat 
 intended to be slapped so.^ 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 63 
 
 113 TURNING IN DEAD-EYES. 
 
 If in the loft, get the length from the mast-head to the deck, 
 from the draft, if the masts are not stepped, and place the dead- 
 eye to that length, making due allowance for stretching in set- 
 ting up. Turn the dead-eye in as near the end as possible, so 
 that all parts of the shroud may be equally stretched, which will 
 prevent its having a gouty end. 
 
 The principal caution is to keep the lay in the rope, as it pre- 
 vents the wet getting in. If the shroud is to be wormed, and 
 served in the wake of the dead-eye, the worming should not 
 be hove in too taut, as breaking the shroud round the dead-eye 
 would probably snap it. 
 
 The score being well tarred, the end of the shroud is taken un- 
 derneath, round the dead-eye, inside standing, or mast-head part ; 
 a bolt is put in a hole of the dead-eye. Take a good strand, knot 
 both ends together ; it is then middled and crossed round the end 
 of the shroud ; both bights are taken round the bolt, one on each 
 side of the dead-eye, and a smaller bolt put in each bight, which 
 are hove round the large bolt in the dead-eye. As the turns ac- 
 cumulate, it heaves the shroud taut round. The dead-eye should 
 be secured through one of the holes with spun yarn to the shroud 
 before heaving, where the shroud is marked, for the lower part. 
 When the dead-eye is turned in, in a loft, the shroud is hove in 
 with a jigger, (or dead-eye machine). 
 
 When the shroud is hove well round, pass a good throat-seiz- 
 ing. When secured, take out the bolts, get a small jigger, hook 
 one end to a strap round the end of the shroud, and the other to 
 the mast-head part ; take a good strand, knot both ends together, 
 take it round the end and standing or masthead part ; put a bolt 
 in both bights, and heave it round, pulling up the jigger at the 
 same time ; this will bring the end taut up, as heaving on the 
 strap brings both parts close together ; then pass a round, or 
 quarter seizing, and a smaller one on the end. 
 
 If the rigging is turned in on shore, keep the lay in the rope, 
 and when sent out of the loft, to be placed on the mast-head, keep 
 the ends inside, the shrouds being marked with a knot or a piece 
 of spun-yarn, according to the number. The ends will lay aft 
 on one side, and forward on the other ; this is of importance and 
 phould be remembered. 
 
 Turning in dead-eyes, termed Cutter stay-fashion. — The 
 dead-eye being placed to the mark, the end is passed round it as 
 before, but instead of being secured with a throat-seizing, the enr" 
 is passed round the standing-part and seized to the part rouno 
 the dead-eye with a round-seizing, and another on the enrl 
 further round the dead-eye. The same precaution as in tl 
 other way, keep the lay in the rope and end inside. 
 
64 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Note. — Worming and seiTing shrouds in the wake of the dead- 
 eyes is not a common practice in all ships, but I would recom- 
 mend it as a great preservative to the shrouds, if they were served 
 at least six feet above the dead-eyes. I have known of many 
 gangs of rigging condemned on account of the shrouds being 
 magged and chafed in the wake of the dead-eyes and throat-seiz- 
 ing, for want of service, when all other parts of the shi-ouds were 
 found to be good. 
 
 114._aETTING TOPMAST CEOSSTREES OVER. 
 
 Overhaul a girtline through the round hole in the cap ; and 
 if they are to go up from the starboard side, overhaul and send 
 it down, and the after girtline outside the top ; hitch that through 
 the round hole in the cap, well out on the starboard foremost 
 horns underneath, and secure the end with a good seizing of 
 spun-yarn ; the after one bend on in the same way, to the after 
 starboard horn ; then stop both girtlines well with spun-yarn, 
 close to the trestle-trees, and also with two stops, on the larboard 
 horns ; " sway away ;" having a guy from the deck to clear it 
 of the top, as it goes aloft. When the upper, or larboard horns 
 are well clear of the cap, take two rope's ends from the larboard 
 side of the top, and bend them to the larboard horns, and man 
 them in the top — these are called " steadying lines," and are used 
 to prevent the crosstrees falling back, if a stop is cut too soon, 
 and to assist in getting the crosstrees on the cap, and over the 
 mast-head. " Sway higher," cutting the stops, and haiiling on 
 the steadying lines. When the trestle-trees are as high up as 
 possible on the cap, haul on the steadying lines, and cut the stops 
 close to the trestle-trees on the starboard side, and the crosstrees 
 will fall across the cap ; then place the after hole between the 
 trestle-trees, over the round hole in the cap — cast off the girtlines 
 and steadying lines — ^white-lead the mast-head in the wake of the 
 crosstrees, and sway the topmast through ; beat the crosstrees 
 well down on the mast-head ; and when placed, sway the top- 
 mast a few feet higher for rigging. Pass a lashing through the 
 fid-hole, and round the lower mast, to steady it. 
 
 The topmasts are sometimes Added before rigging, to avoid the 
 (greater strain upon the top tackles. If a topmast has only one 
 sheave (like a mizen topmast), it is a good precaution to reeve a 
 hawser through the fid-hole, and haul it taut, as the mast goes 
 aloft ; unreeving it only when the mast is high enough for fid- 
 ding, or previous to the squares entering the trestle-trees. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 135 
 
 115.— PLACING TOPMAST EIGGING. 
 
 Tar the masthead in the wake of the rigging ; send the bol- 
 sters aloft, and stop them. After the bolsters are on, put over 
 first the mast-head pendants — then the span for ginn blocks ; 
 then follows the straps, with thimble in for standing part of 
 the tyes — ^next, first pair of shrouds on the starboard side, then 
 the larboard ; and so on, until all are over ; then lash the breast 
 backstay (if single) ; if a pair, put them over the same as a 
 shroud ; next the after backstays ; lash the stays, if fitted for it, 
 if not, put them over the same as lower stays, with mousings, 
 The collars of the stays go between the cross-trees, and lash over 
 the after one. Some prefer chain spans. The most approved 
 method is an iron plate, with a hook on each end, which lays 
 across the trestle-trees. 
 
 116.— TO SEIZE-IN THE SISTEK-BLOCKS. 
 
 There is a score on each side to take the shroud, and three 
 scores for seizing — one on each end, and one between both 
 sheaves. They are seized-in the length of the hanging block, 
 from the eye-seizing, to prevent any risk of the reef-tackle and 
 lift being jammed between the hanging blocks and the rigging— 
 .6 
 
66 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR J 
 
 one seizing is passed round the shrouds, above the block, another 
 below the block ; and a small seizing put on each scoie, round 
 the block and shrouds. The topsail-Ult leads through the lower 
 sheave, and reef tackle through the upper one. 
 
 The larboard block should be seized-in once the diameter of 
 the shroud lower than the other, as, if both are seized aUke 
 (the starboard shroud going over first) they would not be square 
 when the rigging is placed. 
 
 117 ,— BACKSTAYS, (BREAST,) 
 
 When in pairs, are fitted with eyes, the same as the shrouds, 
 and served suflBciently far down to be square with the service of 
 the topmast shrouds. They are also parceled and served in the 
 way of the lower yards, when braced up. When there is only 
 one backstay it is secured round the mast-head with a lashing 
 passed round it, through an eye spliced in ;* they are -set up to a 
 treble block in the channels. Through these blocks a fall is 
 rove, the standing part being spliced into the strap of the double 
 block, and then led from the treble block through a fair leader in 
 the side, in on deck. 
 
 Note. — I have seen ships without breast backstays on any 
 mast, and they carried sail equally well with those who had them ; 
 one was the Independence razee : her breast backstays were con- 
 verted into standing ones, and set up a little further aft, or imme- 
 diately forward of the proper standing backstays. 
 
 Breast backstays are generally pulled up in stays when the 
 ship is head to wind, having a quarter-watch of topmen stationed 
 by them. If they should be set up too taut, whch may be the 
 case, especially when the rigging is slack, they are likely to snap 
 and endanger the mast by the sudden jerk ; if not set up enough, 
 they can be of no use, and are only an additional weight on the 
 mast-headsj and a useless expenditure of rope. Their being set 
 up to bear an equal strain with the rigging, will not occur with 
 the greatest care once in a year, and I consider ihem particularly 
 injurious on top-gallant-masts- A good stout stowdmg- backstay 
 is the main support. 
 
 * Some are fitted with a cut splice. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 67 
 
 118.— STANDING AFTER-BACKSTAYS, 
 
 J, When in pairs, are fitted with an eye the same 
 
 ij as topmost rigging. When an odd one on eash 
 
 [ side, they are fitted with a horse shoe. They 
 
 are now fitted the same size as lower rigging. 
 
 The backstays are set up with a lanyard rove 
 through dead-eyes, the same as shrouds, having 
 service in the wake of the lower yards and tops. 
 
 119.— MAIN TOPMAST STAY 
 
 > 
 
 Is fitted of the same size as the standing back- 
 stay. A large clump block is strapped round the 
 foremast head, over the eyes of the rigging, and 
 immediately over the square hole in the after 
 part of the trestle-trees. Through this block 
 the main topmast stay is rove down, through the 
 trestle-trees— has a thimble turned in the end, 
 lanyard spliced and rove through it, and set up 
 to a span shackle in the deck, abaft the foremast, 
 for the purpose ; or a large bull's-eye hooked to 
 an eye-bolt, and set up on the end. 
 
 The spring stay leads through a block strap- 
 ped round the foremast above the cat-harpens, 
 and sets up in the fore-top. 
 
 120.— MIZEN TOPMAST STAY 
 
 Is rove through a thimble strapped round the 
 mainmast-head, over the eyes of the rigging; 
 _ and when set up, is secured to its own part with 
 round seizings. If preferred, it can be set up with 
 a thimble turned into the end, and a lanyard 
 rove through it; but this is not necessary. 
 When the stays are well stretched, the thimbles 
 can be spliced in, but it is not a good plan ; for, 
 should it be necessary to unreeve, the splice must 
 be drawn, which will injure the rope. I have 
 I seen theni fitted in this way, and pointed over 
 
08 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 for neatness, — but prefer their being turned in, and the end 
 pointed or capped. 
 
 Note. — There is no mizen topmast spring-stay. 
 
 121.— GETTING THE TOPMAST CAPS ON. 
 
 The girthne blocks should be lashed well up to the topmast 
 head. Overhaul down before all the foremost ends, and secure 
 them to the foremost bolts in the cap ; stop them to the centre 
 Ones, and also to the square hole in the after part ; sway the cap 
 up ; — when well up, cut the after stops, sway higher, and the cap 
 can be easily placed by the man aloft, and girtlines cast ofif. 
 
 If the cap should be very heavy, use a derrick ; a capstan bar 
 will answer the purpose. 
 
 Note. — Ship the capshore the same time you place the cap. 
 
 122.— MAST-HEAD MAN KOPES, &o. &c. 
 
 A piece of rope has an eye spliced in one end, and several over- 
 handed knots made on the bight, at equal distances from each 
 other. They should be long enough to reach a third down the 
 topmast rigging, and seized round the mast-head close to the cap ; 
 one on each side is sufficient. They are absolutely necessary in 
 large ships, and should be on all. 
 
 I have seen them in some very neat ships ; and, when it is re- 
 collected the small space the men have for their feet when they get 
 near the crosstrees, and the long mast-head, to get on the cap, it 
 is certainly worth while to sacrifice something in the way of ap- 
 pearance to ensure the safety of a man's life. 
 
 Some large ships have ladders with two steps, set up to the 
 eyes of the topmast rigging, from the cap ; also, spans and grab- 
 ropes fitted, to go from the swifters abreast of the cap, which will 
 be found very convenient for the topmen, when exercising sails. 
 These may appear trifling matters to some, but ships fitted with 
 them are generally ahead, when exercising in a squadron. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. gg 
 
 123.— TOP TACKLE PENDANTS, &c. 
 
 When cut to the required length, a thimble, well parceled, is 
 spliced into one end, and the other pointed, with a becket in it. 
 There are two to the fore, and two to the main topmasts. In the 
 heel of each topmast there is a dumb sheave ; — take one pendant 
 and reeve it through the top block, hooked to the cap, through 
 the trestle-trees, through the dumb sheave, or heel-blqck, through 
 an eye-bolt in the foremost part of the cap, on the opposite side 
 to the block ; take two half-hitches, and secure the end to its 
 own part, with a spun-yarn seizing ; hook the top tackle block 
 to the thimble in the pendant, and the lower one, to a bolt in the 
 deck for the purpose ; reeve the fall through a leader, and bring it 
 to the capstan ; heave well taut, and unreeve the hawser by which 
 the mast was formerly hove up for rigging. 
 
 The other pendant reeves through the other top-block, through 
 the sheave hole in the topmast, and clenched to the other eye- 
 bolt in the fore corner of the cap ; hook the blocks, reeve and 
 bring the fall to the capstan, taking the other off, and manning 
 it well. When no capstan, both falls must be well-manned by 
 hand. 
 
 Top Tackle Falls and Blocks. — The upper block is double^ 
 strapped, which is made into a hook ; the lower is also double^ 
 and should be iron-strapped, having a swivel ; a single one is 
 hooked near the double as a leading block ; the fall is rove ; the 
 standing part hitched, or clenched, over the block ; they are some- 
 times spliced in, and some have beckets. 
 
 To hook the double block, clap a single tail-block well up on 
 the pendant, reeve a whip through it, hitch one end of the whip 
 through one of the sheaves of the double block, hoist it up, and 
 hook it to the pendant. 
 
 124.— PREP AEINa TO FID THE TOPMASTS. 
 
 Capshores should be stepped and secured, luff tackles clapped 
 on all the stays and backstays. Low er blocks should not be hook- 
 ed on to the lanyards, but to bolts in the deck, and eye-bolts or 
 straps in the chains ; capstans and falls manned, topmast riggmg 
 quite clear, and hove over the sides of the tops, and the topmasts 
 hove up and fidded, mast stayed, rigging set up ^c. 
 
70 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 1 25.— BATTLING THE LOWEK AND TOPMAST RIG 
 
 GING. 
 
 Cat-harpen legs and futtock shrouds are seized-on and set up ; 
 topmast stayed, rigging and backstays set up, lanyards secured 
 as lower rigging, — then commence rattling down. 
 
 Girt the rigging with three fore and aft swifters — one by the 
 shear rail, and the others at equal distances, as follows : — Make 
 one end of a small rope fast round the foremost shroud, take a 
 turn round the next, then the third, and so on, luitil all are taken 
 in ; then back the same way, and half-hitch it round the first. 
 The swifter should be just taut, and not so as to bring the 
 shrouds together, — the object being to make the ratlines a httle 
 tauter when let go. Sometimes swifters are not used, but the rat- 
 hnes are never so square, or look well. Care should be taken that 
 they are not too taut, for, when let go, all the strain will come 
 on the seizing in the eyes of the ratlines, and they will be con- 
 stantly snapping. Two swifters on each side are sufficient for 
 the topmast rigging. 
 
 Spar the rigging down, with spare spars, such as studding-sail 
 yards, boat's oars, boat's masts, handspikes, or anything light 
 that will answer, and seize them to the shrouds on the outside, 
 at equal distances, leaving sufficient space for three or four rat- 
 lines between each spar. 
 
 A coil of small well-stretched rope is placed on each side of the 
 deck, two or three on a side when required to be done quick. 
 Splice an eye in one end of the rattling stuff, seize it to the first 
 shroud, and then commence clove-hitching on the second, and so 
 on to the after, but one; then measure the distance from that to 
 the last, cut it off, and splice an eye in the end. Beat the hitches 
 well round each shroud, seize the end to the foremost one, and 
 also the other eye to the after one, and rattle up, taking the shear 
 of the rails. The hitches are formed on the outside, and at equal 
 distances ; in three or four places take a ratline to the after swift- 
 er ; — these are called shear ratlines. 
 
 When it is necessary to rattle quick, take three ends up at a 
 time. Fifteen inches is a good distance between the ratlines, and 
 their places should be chalked off all the way up and down before 
 commencing. Each man employed should have a measure within 
 his reach, and care should be taken to make the ratlines on one 
 side correspond in a parallel direction with those of the other. 
 This can only be seen from the outside of the ship. Make the 
 hitches neat, and the eyes small ; few things tend more to a snug 
 appearance. 
 
 If the rigging is to be blacked, after rattling down, it is best to 
 leave the spars on until that is done, taking them ofl' as you 
 black down 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. J\ 
 
 126.— FUTTOCK-STAVES IN TOPMAST KIGGING 
 
 Are iron bolts parceled and served ; are seized to the shrouds 
 the length of the hounds, down on the inside ; seizings passed as 
 in lower rigging. 
 
 Cat-karpen legs on topmast rigging. — Take the length from 
 ithe starboard foremost shroud round the mast, and to the after 
 one on the same side ; get a piece of rope this length, splice an 
 eye in each end, worm, parcel, and serve it. There are two on 
 each mast. Seize the foremost end to the foremost shroud and 
 futtock stave, take it round the mast and seize it to the after one ; 
 secure one to the larboard side in the same manner. 
 
 I have seen them go from the foremost starboard shroud, 
 straight to the after larboard one, crossing abaft the mast. They 
 are also fitted to set up with thimbles and a lanyard, abaft the 
 mast. When this is done, both eyes are seized to the futtock 
 staves on the starboard side, a thimble seized in the bight, and 
 set up abaft the mast to the larboard one, with a lanyard fitted 
 in the same way. (Vessels with chain topsail ties are fitted with 
 iron bands, to go round the mast, with eyes for the topgallant 
 rigging to lead through.) 
 
 12T.— TO RIG THE JIB-BOOM. 
 
 Hoist the jib-boom on board by the hawser or tackle, which was 
 left at the foremast head when getting on board the fore topmast, 
 run the end out on the bowsprit, pointing it through the stays 
 and bowsprit cap. Reeve the heel-rope, and sway the jib-boom 
 out a foot or two beyond the cap. Reeve the jib-stay through 
 the hanks, traveller if required, and then through the inner 
 sheave-hole, in the boom end, martingale and necklace, and turn 
 a double 'block in the inner end; reeve the lanyard or fall 
 through this, and a single block bolted to the bows. To the 
 traveler seize the jib downhaul blocks and traveling guys ; tar 
 the boom end, put a grommet over, to which seize the fore top- 
 gallant bowline blocks, one on each side. 
 
 Foot ropes. — There is one on each side of the jib-boom. They 
 should be long enough when in their place to allow a man to 
 stand navel-high along the boom, and are fitted as follows : take 
 a piece of rope long enough to make both ; cut it in the centre 
 and splice one end into the other with a cut splice, forming an 
 eye to fit the jib-boom end. Four or five overhand knots are 
 taken at equal distances on the rope, from the eye, according to 
 
72 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 the length of the foot-rope ; the knots are for the purpose of pre 
 venting the men from sHpping. In each end splice a small eye, 
 large enough to take a lashing, by which they are set up to bolts 
 in the bowsprit cap. An eye is sometimes made by taking a 
 round turn round the boom end, and two seizings passed. Also 
 with a span, horse-shoe fashion, and neatly covered with canvass. 
 
 ]S[ote. — Turk's-heads worked through the strands, may be sub- 
 stituted for knots on the foot-ropes, if time will permit. 
 
 128 JIB-BOOM MARTING-ALE STAY 
 
 Is a short rope, with an eye in each end to fit the jib-boom, and 
 end of the dolphin-striker. The eyes are well served, and cov- 
 ered with canvass or leather. The martingale is wormed, and 
 a small twine seizing (snaked) put on round the- worming at 
 equal distances between the eyes ; three, or four, according to 
 the length, which must depend on the way the dolphin-striker 
 is intended to stand, or rake. It looks best when perpendicular 
 to cap or jackstaff. 
 
 Chain is sometimes used for the purpose, as also for back-ropes : 
 and is found to answer well, it not being liable to stretch. 
 
 129.— JIB-BOOM GUYS. 
 
 There is one pair on each side ; an eye is made to fit the boom 
 end by passing a round seizing, when in their place ; both ends 
 are rove through thimbles on each yard-arm of spritsail yard 
 (when crossed). Then brought in and both ends set up to bull's 
 eyes in the bow, or fitted with tackles. 
 
 Placing the rigging on the jib-boom.. — First, the foot-ropes; 
 next, the martingale stay, and guys. In some ships, an iron 
 grummet is fitted with an eye on top and one underneath, neatly 
 leathered, and put over the boom-end first. The martingale stay 
 IS hooked to the underneath eye, the jib-tack and downhaul to 
 the upper one. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 73 
 
 1 30 — MAKTINGALE BACK-EOPES 
 
 Are pendants, middled and served in the centre, the round of 
 the dolphin striker, both parts crossed and secured with a throat 
 seizing. The service should be long enough to take in the seiz- 
 ing. In the ends spUce a single or double block ; another single 
 one is strapped into a bolt in the bow for the purpose, or fitted in 
 a strap with a hook and thimble (hook moused). A gun tackle, 
 or lufF-purchase, is then rove, the standing part of the fall spliced 
 round the pendant, in after end of the block, rove through the one 
 in the bow, over the head rails, back through the one in the JDen- 
 dant, and through a fair leading sheave, in the forecastle bulwark. 
 These falls, after being puUed up, are racked together outside the 
 bulwark. If belayed on the forecastle, they should be seized to 
 their next part, so as not to be let go by mistake. 
 
 131.— PLACING THE RIGGING ON A DOLPHIN- 
 STEIKEE. 
 
 Back-ropes first, and next the martingale ; below this rigging, 
 in the end of the dolphin-striker, are two or thr^e sheaves, and 
 one close above it, large enough to admit the jib-stay, which is 
 rove through it ; flying jib-stay in the next sheave, and flying 
 martingale stay under all, which will show two ropes leading 
 from each boom end, to the dolphin-striker. 
 
 132.— GETTING THE JIB-BOOM OUT. 
 
 The flying jib-boom iron is driven on ; the heel rope manned 
 (if rigged), and the boom hauled out. The heel strap is placed 
 in a score in the heel for the purpose, and both bights lashed to- 
 gether ; then another lashing passed round the strap, between 
 the boom and the bowsprit, and the strap well flapped together. 
 The heel being well secured, set up the back ropes and guys. 
 
 Note. — ^Rigging to be placed same as jib-boom. 
 
74 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 133 SENDING UP TOPGALLANT MASTS. 
 
 The topgallant top blocks being hooked, we will suppose the 
 long mast rope is to be love, from the starboard side of the top- 
 mast-cap ; take the end through the square hole in the fore part 
 of the trestle-trees, half-hitch it through the fid-hole, and stop it 
 round the hounds, and the royal mast-head ; send the hauling 
 part through lubber's hole, and through a leading block or sheave 
 on deck. The topgallant rigging is fitted on a sheet-iron cylinder 
 or funnel, attached to the jack cross-trees (by an order from the 
 former Navy Commissioners), leathered and painted on the outside, 
 and tarred on the inside ; put on the grommet or strap for the 
 main royal stay* to reeve through, then put on the topgallant and 
 flying iib-stays, starboard and larboard shrouds, breast and stand- 
 ing backstays, and secure them over the funnel ; overhaul the girt- 
 lines down on deck, and bend them on to the rigging, around all 
 parts, about the length of the mast-head below the jack, and a 
 good stop through the funnel ; hoist the funnel up and place it, 
 with the rigging on, over the hole in the cap, and take the stays 
 forward and reeve them. 
 
 Man the mast-ropes and " sway away," having men stationed to 
 bear off and place the rigging or funnel. When pointed through 
 the funnel, place the royal rigging and truck, reeve the signal 
 halyards, and attach the conductor ; " sway higher," land the 
 mast on the top or forepart of lower mast-cap, and, if required, 
 reeve the short mast rope ; reeve the pointed end through a block 
 hooked to the cap on the larboard side, or the sheave, then through 
 the trestle-trees, through the sheave-hole in the topgallant-mast, 
 up through the trestle-trees, and secure the end to the foremost 
 bolt in the cap, with two half-hitches, and seize the end; to the 
 thimble in the other end, hook the double block of a burton ; hook 
 the single one to a strap round the trestle-trees ; send the burton 
 fall on deck through lubber's hole, and lead it through a single 
 leading block, and haul it taut ; unreeve the long mast rope, and 
 fid the mast ; when the fid is in, the mast rope can be unrove, if 
 wished. 
 
 Reeve the ends of the shrouds through the horns of the cross- 
 trees, between the to jmast rigging, over the futtock staves, and 
 tuin a thimble in ea jh end ; strap another round a futtock plate, 
 inside the dead-eye i of top-mast rigging ; if there is none placed 
 in the top, splice a /anyaid into that in each shroud, and take two 
 or three turns thr (Ugh each, stay the mast, and set the rigging 
 and backstays uj" . 
 
 In setting up ' he backstays the single block of the jigger, which 
 is hooked to the thimble, is hooked to a blackwall hitch, in the lan- 
 
 * Suppose this to be the fore topgallant-mast. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 75 
 
 yard, and when set up, expend the lanyard through the thnnbles 
 and seize the ends. On both shrouds on each side clap on small 
 Jiggers^hook the double blocks to straps on the shrouds, the sin- 
 gle to Blackwall hitches in the lanyards, and set up and secure 
 the same as the backstays. 
 
 . '^}^'^ f?''^, topgallant stay reeves through the outer sheave-hole 
 m the Jib-boom, and through a bull's-eye hooked to the bows 
 and when set up, is seized to its own part. ' 
 
 _ The main topgallant stay is rove thiough the middle sheave 
 m the after chock of the fore topmast crosstress, or through a 
 block strapped around the foie mast-head, and set up in the 
 fore top.* ^ 
 
 The mizen topgallant stay is rove through a bull's-eye in the 
 after part of the main cap, and set up in the main top. 
 
 134.— EOYAL EIGGINO. 
 
 There is one breast, and after backstay on each side,- seized as 
 the after backstays on topgallant masts. The bieast backstay 
 or shroud, is pulled up with a gun tackle purchase ;* the after leg 
 has a thimble turned in, and sets up in the after part of the 
 chains, with a lanyard. 
 
 Royal stays. — As there is no funnel (although it would be a 
 great advantage to have one), splice an eye iij the stay to fit the 
 mast-head, cover it, and serve over the splice. It goes on next 
 to the grommet, then the shroud and backstays, spanned together. 
 
 The fore royal stay is rove through the outer sheave-hole in 
 the flying jib-boom end, and pulled up through a fair leader on 
 the forecastle. 
 
 The main royal stay is rove through a thiinble stopped around 
 the foretop gallant mast head, through another strapped round 
 the eye of a shroud, and when set up is seized to its own part. 
 
 Mizen royal stay reeves through a sheave in the after part of the 
 main topmast trestle-trees, through a thimble strapped round the 
 eye of a main shroud, and seized to its own part. 
 
 * Royal -backstays are set up with a jigger to their respective places in the 
 diannels. The shro-.ids are set up in the top(breast-backstay-lashioii. 
 
THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 135.— SHORT AND LONG TOPGALLANT MAST-EOPES 
 
 Short mast ropes have a thimble spliced in one end, and 
 the other end pointed. They are rove when the mast is rigged, 
 and are used for Adding. They should be sutficiently long (when 
 the mast is landed on the top or cap), after being rove through 
 the block and sheave in the heel of the mast, and clenched to 
 the cap, to allow the thimble to hang clear of the cat-haipen legs. 
 
 If the topsail-yard is crossed, the mast is landed on it, for rig 
 ging ; if the topgallant-mast should be too long to allow its be- 
 ing landed on the yard, the mast rope must be lengthened ac- 
 cordingly. 
 
 Long Tnast ropes. — ^Ropes are often fitted for the purpose ; but 
 the topgallant yard rope is generally used. I have seen them 
 fitted as follows, and they answered very well : — 
 
 The rope is rove, and stopped to the topgallant-masthead, and 
 royal sheave-hole, leaving a long end over the upper stop, t& 
 hitch to the bolt, before cutting the stops. To prevent the rope 
 slipping, rack both parts together above the sheave-hole in the 
 heel of the mast. 
 
 136.— TO EIG THE FLYING JIB-BOOM. 
 
 Sway it on board and point it through the iron at the jib-boom 
 end. A tail block is put on the neck of the iron, or on the jib- 
 stay, close down to the boom. Through this block reeve the heel 
 rope, one end taken in on the forecastle, and the other bent to the 
 heel of the boom. A rope is bent to the heel of the boom to 
 serve as a guy ; sway the boom out a foot or two for rigging. 
 Put over the foot ropes, fitted as the jib-boom, the inner ends 
 seized to the jib-boom end, inside the iron. The martingale, 
 when single, is secured round the boom end, clenched, spHced, or 
 with a running eye, rove through a sheave in the dolphin-striker, 
 and in on the forecastle, on the opposite side to the royal stay! 
 When double, a single block is strapped round the boom end, and 
 the standing part spliced round the dolphin-striker ; hauling part 
 as when single. 
 
 Guys.— One on each side spliced into each other, forming a 
 cut-sphce to fit the boom end. The other end rove through 
 thnnbles, strapped round the spritsail yard, through fair leaders 
 in the bulwarks, and pulled up on the forecastle, or set ud on the 
 bows. ^ 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 77 
 
 Man the heel rope and get the boom out ; the heel is placed in 
 a step formed on the fore side of the bowsprit cap, for the purpose, 
 and secured with a lashing, rove through the end, and passed 
 round the jib-boom. Set up the martingale, stay the fore topgal- 
 lant and royal mast, (fore and aft,) by the stays and backstays ; 
 and if the spritsail yard is crossed, reeve the guys, turn in thim- 
 bles, and set them up. 
 
 137.— SPEITSAIL LIFTS 
 
 Are single ; have an eye spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm ; 
 splices served over are taken over the jib guys, rove through 
 the bull's-eye in the cap, and set up on the forecastle. Blocks are 
 sometimes strapped into the bolts, but it is quite unnecessary. 
 Bolts are often driven into the fore side of the cap, and the lifts 
 led through ; when this is done, they are generally set up there 
 with lanyards and thimbles, spliced into the end, which answers 
 every purpose. 
 
 138.— SPEITSAIL BRACES. 
 
 A single block is strapped in toa bolt in the cheek of the fore- 
 mast on each side. The brace has an eye in one end, to fit the 
 yard arm ; the other is rove through the single block, on collar of 
 fore-stay, and another single block is spliced into the end ; a luff 
 tackle purchase is rove with it, and a double block on the deck, 
 one sheave answering for a leading one. 
 
 They are sometimes rove double, but the practice is gettmg out 
 of date. 
 
 139.— STRAPPING THIMBLES FOR GUYS ON SPRIT- 
 SAIL YARDS. 
 
 The thimbles are double-strapped and secured, after being 
 placed round the yard, and in the score of the thimbles, with a 
 round seizing passed between the thimble and the yard ; the 
 splices laying in the upper side of the score in the thimbles. 
 
YQ THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Some fit grummet straps, or a short-long splice, in the strap foi 
 
 The use of double straps is to allow the thimbles to lay fair 
 with the yard for the jib guys to lead through ; if smgle, they 
 would stand fore and all. 
 
 140.— CROSSING A SPRITSAIL YARD. 
 
 The yard being rigged, prepare for crossing as follows : 
 Clap a good selvagee strap well up, on the fore topmast stay; 
 to it hook a snatch or leading block large enough to take a haw- 
 ser ; reeve it and timber-hitch it round the starboard quaiter of 
 the spritsail yard, (if got out on the starboard side,) stop it along 
 to the larboard quarter, and half way out on the larboard yard- 
 arm. Overhaul down the lifts and braces, and sway out, keeping 
 the larboaid yard-arm under the bowsprit ; when clear on the 
 larboard side, put over the brace, or block, and lift, and haul out ; 
 when nearly out, or before clear of the head rails, put over the 
 starboard bi'ace or block and lift ; haul on the hawser, starboard 
 Uft, and brace, and cast off the stops. When sufficiently out, 
 pass the parrel, take a turn or hold well on the end; hook the 
 tye, and square the yard. Cast off the hawser and unreeve it; 
 reeve the jib-guys through their thimbles on the spritsail yard, 
 turn in dead-eyes or blocks, and set them up to others on the 
 bows ; set all up taut and square the yard. 
 
 141. —TWO HALE SPRITSAIL YARDS. 
 
 Two half spritsail yards, made like dolphin-strikers, are se- 
 cured to the bowsprit with jaws, (or an iron band fitted round the 
 bowsprit, with a double goose-neck hinge,) to cant or turn in 
 any required direction. When the half spiritsail yard is carried 
 it is rigged as follows : — 
 
 The fore guys are made of well sti-etched rope, and equal in 
 strength to the jib guys together, each fitted with an artificial 
 eye to fit the jib-boom end and half yard-arm. They should be 
 wormed with small rope, parceled and served, or covered in the 
 eyes ; four stranded rope is preferable, it being not so liable to 
 stretch as three. 
 
 The after guys are fitted with an artificial eye in one end, to 
 fit the yard arm, and a thimble spliced intp the other. They are 
 the same size as the fore guys, and wormed in the same manner 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. . 79 
 
 If made on purpose, and four-stranded, the thimble is kept in the 
 bight with a round seizing. 
 
 The jumper, or lower guy, is fitted the same as the after, only 
 shorter ; the length of this depends on the drop intended to be 
 given to the yard arm, which should never be less than the sprit- 
 sail yard, when well braced up, or, in other words, cmited. 
 
 The jumper is put on the yard arm first, then the after one, 
 next, the foremost, and over the jib-boom. The after one is set 
 up to a bolt by the cat-head, well down ; the lower, to an eye- 
 bolt in each side of the cutwater, well out. 
 
 For a frigate, the guys are eight-and-a-half-inch, and wormed 
 with twenty-one thread stuff. Four-stranded rope, if made on 
 purpose, can have the eyes formed when laying up in the rope 
 walk. Some fit forward and after guys all in one. 
 
 143.— WHISKEKS. 
 
 Whiskers are iron outriggers from the cathead, with sheaves 
 in them for the guys to reeve through, and set up to the fore 
 chains, the same as when rove through the spritsail yard. This 
 plan is much in use in small vessels, but the boom is supported 
 almost entirely by the martingale, as the guys being considerably 
 above the boom, and its always topping up, when the sail is set 
 on a Avind, the more wind the greater the strain on the martin- 
 gale ; and should the guys be not carefully pulled up, the boom 
 must depend on the martingale entirely for support. 
 
 143.— TO GET ON BOAED AND EIG LOWEE YAEDS. 
 
 Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast-head, bend on to the 
 slings of the yard, and get them nearly up and down ; clap sel- 
 vagees on the quarters, to which hook the pendant tackles. As 
 it comes on board, cut the stops, easing away on the pendant 
 tackle, and bousing on the other, until the yard is athwart-ships ; 
 place chocks in the hammock nettings for the yard to rest on ; 
 slue them fair, and lash them ; come up the tackles, cast off the 
 hawsers, and place a shore under the middle of the yard to prevent 
 its springing. Measure the yard, tar and leather the shngs, fit a 
 saddle for the D thimble, which lash on with a piece of well 
 stretched rope, heaving each turn taut with a Spanish windlass, 
 and fitting the score of the D thimble. Cover all with leather, 
 and fit the straps for the preventer slings, <fcc., <fcc., &c. 
 
 iVo^e.— The iron sling-bands are now used instead of the oW 
 fashioned D thimble. 
 
80 . THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Chain is now generally used, and allowed to all ships in the 
 service for the slings (proper), rope ones being used as preventers. 
 (See Rigging Table.) 
 
 144.— TRUSS STRAPS. 
 
 A large thimble with the score well parceled, is seized into a 
 double strap, which is made by splicing both ends together, and 
 served over ; the thimble secured in the strap with a round seizing, 
 the splice laying in the score. The strap should be long enough 
 to go round the yard in the quarter, both eyes lashing together 
 on the fore side. There are two on each yard. One thimble is 
 seized inside the truss pendant, the other outside ; and one in the 
 round of the pendant higher up than the other. 
 
 145.— TRUSS PENDANTS* 
 
 Are wormed, parceled, and served ; an eye is spliced in one 
 end large enough to take the pendant when rove through it ; in 
 the other an artificial eye is made, large enough to take the single 
 block for truss fall. The pendant should be rove through the 
 small eye before the artificial one is made, boused well taut round 
 the yard, the eye being kept underneath, and one pendant higher 
 than the other. Reeve the upper pendant through the upper 
 thimble, and lower pendant through lower thimble. Being rove 
 in this manner, they will lead perfectly clear of each other. 
 
 Hide rope is preferable for pendants, but the iron patent truss 
 is now allowed to all vessels, up to a second class frigate inclu- 
 sive. {New regulation). 
 
 146.— QUARTER BLOCKS— LOWER YARDS. 
 
 Quarter or topsail sheet blocks are large single blocks, with 
 double straps ; the block seized in with a round seizing, and se- 
 cured round the yard, (inside the cleat, one on each side,) with a 
 rose-lashing passed through both bights on the top of the yard. 
 
 ' For length and size, see Rigging Table. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 81 
 
 Before the lashing is passed, the block should be hove up with 
 heavers, and the eyes of the strap brought as close together as 
 possible. This is done with a good strand passed through both, 
 and hove up with a Spanish windlass. Vessels carrying chain top- 
 sail sheets, have iron blocks fitted to the iron bands in the slings 
 of the yard for that purpose. (See Rigging Table). 
 
 147.— CLEW GAKNET BLOCKS 
 
 Are single ;• seized into a single strap, with an eye spliced in 
 each end, and are secured round the yard with a rose-lashing, the 
 same as the topsail sheet blocks, just outside the cleats. Some 
 ships have all the rigging inside the cleats, which is much neater. 
 
 Note. — Iron bound blocks are allowed to all classes of vessels 
 in the navy, by the new regulation, for this purpose. 
 
 148.— LIFT BLOCKS— LOWER lAEDS 
 
 Are single, seized into a single strap, with a round seizing ; 
 the strap being long enough to go over the yard arm, after the 
 block is seized in. If both ends are spliced together, the splice 
 should lay in the score of the block, or upper side ; but a gium- 
 met will answer equally as well, and look snugger. 
 
 149.— FOOT ROPES AND STIRRUPS. 
 
 The foot ropes are cut once-and-a-half the length of the yard, 
 (excepting lower yards). An eye, to fit the yard arm, is spliced 
 in one end ; and a small one, to take a seizing, in the other. The 
 spUcing served in the way of chafing (one-third) midship part. 
 
 Stirrups are short pieces of rope spliced round the foot rope ; 
 eyes spliced in the opposite ends, to go over the jackstay-bolts ; 
 splices seiTed over. They are sometimes unlaid at one end and 
 made into plait, and secured to the yard with flat-headed nails, 
 having a small piece of hide or leather placed under their heads 
 before beuxg driven into the yard. Going over the jackstay bolts 
 6 
 
g2 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 is preferable ; and some seize it to the neck of the bolt, or staple 
 They hang on the after side of all yards. 
 
 Some vessels have their foot ropes fitted to go abaft the mast, 
 and seized to'the parrel, which answers a very good purpose, es- 
 pecially in vessels with raking masts, as it gives the men a better 
 opportunity to stand. 
 
 150.— JACKST AYS.— BENDING AND EEEFING. 
 
 Take a piece of rope of the proper size,* cut off the length of 
 the yard, sphce an eye in each end, to fit the yard arm, suflBciently 
 taut to require being driven on. Cut in the centre, and splice a 
 thimble in each end ; put the strands for splicing in once-and-a- 
 half, marl down, and serve over. If two jackstays on each arm, 
 (which should always be the case when the sail is reefed to one), 
 the large one, before splicing the thimbles in, is rove through the 
 eye-bolts on the yard for the purpose ; this is the reefing jackstay. 
 The' bending one is fitted the same way, and after being put over 
 the yard arm, is seized to the neck of the bolts on the after side. 
 
 This plap has been generally adopted, as it was found much 
 easier to reef, than when fitted wfth only one jackstay ; there be- 
 ing always difficulty and delay in getting^ the points between the 
 jackstay and the yard, when the sail was bent to it. When only 
 one jackstay, it is rove through the eye-bolts. 
 
 Note. — Iron bending jackstays are now allowed for all vessels 
 in the navy. 
 
 151.— BKACB BLOCKS.— LOWER YARDS. 
 
 The straps should be fitted suflSciently taut to require being 
 being driven on the yard arm. Two thimbles are fitted, one 
 within the other, called lock thimbles. Take a piece of rope, of 
 the proper size, and cut it long enough to go round one thimble 
 and the yard, when spliced together; worm, parcel and serve it, 
 and pass a round seizing round this strap, close to the thimble. 
 Grommet straps are preferable, if time will permit. 
 
 The block is a large single one, with two scores. For the strap 
 take a piece of rope the required length, and splice both ends to- 
 
 * For the length and size of rope, see Rigging Table. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. §3 
 
 gether ; worm, parcel, and serve it ; reeve it through the thimble 
 already strapped, and pass both parts round the scoie of the other 
 thimble; then place both bights in the scores" in the brace block, 
 keeping the splice in the after end of the block ; pass a round 
 seizing between the block and thimble, crossing it both ways, as 
 in a double strap. 
 
 Cross-jack brace-blocks are single, and strapped the same as 
 lowei' ones. A double block is secured to the after shrouds in 
 the main rigging, the same as main preventer brace blocks. 
 When reeving the cross-jack braces, one end of the brace is 
 clinched, spliced, or half-hitched, and the end seized, just below 
 the block ; then rove through the block on the yard, through the 
 inside sheave in double block, and through a fair leading sheave 
 in a rack, in the side or a leading block. I have seen blocks 
 strapped into bolts on the main-mast, for the biace and bowline, 
 which answered well. The brace block should be put on the 
 yard, sufficiently far in to be inside the topmast backstays, when 
 braced up. 
 
 Note. — These braces should be well beloio the yard, as it al- 
 ways tops up on the wind, which slacks the weather leech ; this 
 is partly the reason a mizen-topsail never stands well. 
 
 152.— PLACING THE RIGGING ON LOWER YARDS. 
 
 Sling bands in the centre, and also on both sides, close to the 
 topsail sheet block, the truss pendants, then truss straps ; if the 
 rigging is all within the cleats, a clue garnet block is lashed oh 
 each side ; if not, they are lashed one on each side, close outside. 
 I have seen them both ways, but inside is preferable. 
 
 Tar well the yard arm, close to the cleats and slings, in the 
 wake of the rigging, first jackstay ; if two, the bending one, and 
 set it up amidships with a lanyard. Then the foot ropes ; after 
 going- over the yard arm, and rove through the stinups, they are 
 lashed together, with a lanyard rove through both thimbles, and 
 are secured with a good seizing to the strap of quarter block. 
 Then the brace, and lift blocks. RolUng tackle straps on the 
 inner quarter of yard, with the eye abaft burton straps on the 
 outer quarter yard-arm, eye on top of yard. 
 
 If the stirrups go over the jackstay bolts, they should be put 
 over before the jackstay is rove. 
 
 The cross jack-yard has no jackstay, head earings, or yard 
 tackle straps ; and the brace blocks, instead of going over the 
 yard-ann, are put on some distance inside of the sheave hole for 
 the mizen-topsail sheets, on the forward side of the yard. 
 
g4 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 153.— GETTING UP JEEK-BLOCKS, AND KEEVING 
 
 Secure two single whip blocks to the after bolts in lower cap 
 Send the two foremost ends through lubber's hole down on deck ; 
 bend them through the shell of the block, with two half-hitches, 
 and seize the end. Stop them along each leg of the strap, the 
 larboard whip to the larboard leg, and the starboard whip to the 
 starboard leg; then stop both legs together with a seizing of 
 spun-yarn in the bights — the hauling part of the whips being 
 through lubber's hole and through a leading block on deck ; man 
 them and hoist the blocks into their places. When clear of the 
 top, cut the stop in the bights, haul on the whips, and they will 
 bring the strap into its place, on each side of the mast-head. 
 Then cut the upper stops, on the whips ; take a turn and pass 
 the lashing in the bight, securing each end to their next part. 
 When secured, let go, and take off the whips. 
 
 Reeving jeers. — The standing part is clenched round the strap 
 of the upper block, rove through the one on the yard, up through 
 another sheave in upper block, and . so on, until all rove fuU. 
 The hauling part is rove through a leading sheave, in fore or 
 main bitts, or through leading blocks. When heaving up, they 
 are either brought to the capstan, or manned by hand. 
 
 The jeer blocks are now generally fitted with hooks, as they 
 can be got up and down much quicker. At the present day, few 
 ships are seen to carry their jeers up in their proper places. 
 
 154.— LOWER LIFT BLOCKS 
 
 Are double ; an iron plate is bolted across the upper side of the 
 main or fore cap ; it is in the form of a crescent, with the hollow 
 side toward the topmast. In each end of the crescent, or hom, 
 an eye is turned and a thimble put in it. Instead of the eyes 
 being turned, I have seen two eye-bolts driven through the cres- 
 cent and cap, and secured underneath with a nut ; a thimble is 
 also put in the eye-bolt, and the blocks strapped in. 
 
 The cross-jack lift blocks are single, one on each side, and can 
 be fitted as the fore or main, or (a 3iaJk) abaft the mast-head, if 
 preferred, for neatness. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 155.— EEEVING LOWER LIFTS. 
 
 85 
 
 Clench one end round the yard outside all, then take the othei 
 end up and reeve it through the foremast sheave in the double 
 block in the fore or main cap, then through the block on the 
 yard, through the other sheave in the double block, and through 
 lubber's hole on deck j well up this part, splice a lizard for jigger 
 tackle, or use tails selvageed on the end. The upper block of 
 the jigger can be spliced or turned in to the hft, if preferred. 
 
 The cross jack hfts go over the yard arms with an eye 
 spliced in the end to fit them. The other end is rove through 
 the block at the cap, and is set up with two thimbles and a lan- 
 yard m the top; one thimble being turned into the end, the other 
 strapped to the eye of one of the lower shrouds. 
 
 156.— MAIN BRACES— ON BUMKIN, ico. 
 
 A single block is seized into a double strap, with a round seiz- 
 ing crossed both ways ; the strap is then put over an iron out- 
 rigger, or bumkin on the quarters, fitted for the purpose. The 
 standing part of the brace being parceled, is rove through another 
 bolt in the bumkin, and spliced into it or clenched ; the other 
 end rove through the block on the yard arm, from out, in through 
 the block in the bumkin, and through a sheave in the bulwarks 
 (abaft), for the purpose. 
 
 Double blocks are sometimes put on the bumpkin, instead of 
 single ones, and also two sheaves inserted in the bulwarks instead 
 of one, both ends of the brace rove, and led in-board — a great 
 facility in working ship. 
 
 157.— FORE BRACES 
 
 Are clove-hitched, and the end seized aft on the collar of the 
 main stay, below the splice ; the other end taken forward and 
 rove from in, out, through the block on the yard, through a single 
 block strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the main-mast, with a 
 thimble in it, close up to the trestle-trees ; then rove from forward 
 aft, through a sheave in the main fife-rail. 
 
 The brace is often middled, and clove-hitched in the bight on 
 the main stay, and both ends taken forward and rove as before. 
 Some have a hole bored in the bibs, or cheeks of the mast, instead 
 of clove-hitching it around the main stay. 
 
86 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 158.— CROSSINa THE LOWER YARDS. 
 
 The jeers bein^ rove, reeve the pendants and falls, hitch the 
 pendants around the quarters of the yard, splice in the lanyard 
 of the D thimble, and take the yard tackles forward to keep the 
 yard clear of the mast. The lifts and braces being rove, man 
 the lifts and jeer falls, "sway away," and when the yard comes 
 abreast of the futtock staves, pass the lashing of the D thimble, 
 parcel it well, over all, frap all parts together, and cover all 
 with canvass; reeve the truss pendants, turn in the blocks, 
 reeve the falls, haul taut the tresses, and square the yard By the 
 lifts and braces. 
 
 159.— TO GET ON BOARD THE TOPSAIL YARDS. 
 
 A large single block is lashed to the topmast-head, through 
 which a hawser is rove; overhaul it down forward and hitch it 
 to the slings of the yard, stop it along the yard arm, and sway it 
 on board. Cast off the hawser, middle the yard, and prepare it 
 
 for 
 
 ygmg. 
 
 160.— RIGaiNG TOPSAIL YARDS. (FORE AND MAIN.) 
 
 The jackstays, after going over the yard arm, are rove through 
 the eye-bolts or staples, and set up a-midsliips with a lanyard and 
 thimble spliced in. 
 
 Foot ropes round the yard abaft, on their opposite quarters, as 
 follows: — splice the lanyard into the eye in the end; take it over 
 the yard, and round on the fore side, underneath through the 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. g? 
 
 eye ; again back round the yard on the fore side, through the 
 eye, and back the same way, until sufficient turns are taken to 
 secure it. Then take a half-hitch from the lower edge of the 
 eye, round all parts of the lashing; pass it round before; reeve 
 through the eye on the upper side, take two half-hitches round 
 ail, and secure the end. 
 
 Tye blocks are now generally iron-strapped, and bolted into 
 straps round the yard for the purpose. If fitted with rope, they 
 must have double straps, and secuied j'ound the yard, on the 
 uppet foremost quarter, with a rose-lashing. If they are single 
 blocks, two on each yard. 
 
 duarter blocks are double blocks, iron strapped, and secured 
 in the same way as tye blocks. Much time is saved by having 
 them fitted in this manner, as in shifting yards, the topgallant 
 sheets, and topsail clewlines need not be unrove, which must be 
 the case if rope-strapped. If rope-strapped they are seized into a 
 single strap, and lashed on top of the yard with a rose-lashing. 
 
 Parrel. — Take two pieces of rope, one longer than the other ; 
 the long one of sufficient length to go round the mast and yard 
 on each side; the short leg to go round the mast, and lash to the 
 long leg on each side. An eye is spliced in each end, are worm- 
 ed, parceled, and served; both marled together and covered with 
 leather. A round seizing is passed around both, close to the eye 
 of the short leg, on each side. The long leg is taken round the 
 yard, brought round on the fore side, and secured to the short 
 leg with a lashing of small rope, passed through both eyes. The 
 other eyes are lashed together when the yard is across. 
 
 Brace blocks are strapped in the same way as fore or main 
 yard. 
 
 Flemish horse is a short piece of rope spliced round a thimble, 
 which is on the neck of the pacific-iron,* it has an eye spliced 
 in the other end, and when the yard is rigged, is secured the 
 same as a foot rope, just inside the brace block, two or three 
 feet, according to the length of the yard. They should be long 
 enough to allow a man to stand on them to pass an earing, &c. 
 They are sometimes fitted to lower and top-gallant yards, for the 
 convenience of reefing, &c. 
 
 Jewel-bloclcs are single blocks, seized into a strap put over a 
 thimble on the neck of the pacific-iron, outside the thimble for 
 the Flemish horse. Some fit them to go over the j^ard arm. 
 Others fit them with sister hooks, to hook to the pacific iron. 
 
 Straps. — Half way out, on each yard arm, a strap is fitted long 
 enough to allow a thimble to be secured in it, with a seizing pas- 
 sed between the yard and thimble,— this is called a rolling tackle 
 
 * Is what the hoorn-iron ships on. 
 
gg THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Strap. Also, straps are put on the yard, with thimbles seized in 
 the same way, inside the lift, to hook a burton to ; but a selvagee 
 strap is generally used for that purpose. 
 
 161.— THE MIZEN TOPSAIL YARD 
 
 Is rigged nearly the same as the others, but the brace blocks 
 are on the fore-side, and the Flemish horses generally spliced 
 into bolts in the ends of the yards, with round thimbles in them. 
 There is seldom more than one tye-block on this yard, and no 
 jewel blocks. 
 
 163.— PLACING THE EIGGING ON TOPSAIL YAEDS. 
 
 Tar the yard arms ; first the jackstay, foot ropes, brace, and 
 lift block ; if no lift block, the lift ; Flemish horses, and jewel- 
 blocks. The quarter blocks should be lashed so as to hang clear 
 of the cap, when the yard is down. See that the boom irons go 
 on, and a small cleat, or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about 
 two feet on each yard-arm, to keep the topgallant sheets clear of 
 the yard. Also reefing cleats on yard-arms, outside the lift. 
 
 163.— CEOSSING THE TOPSAIL YAEDS. 
 
 Reeve a hawser through one of the hanging blocks ; send one 
 end down before all, the other through lubber's hole, and through 
 a leading block on deck. Take a round turn, and timber-hitch 
 the hawser round the slings of the yard ; stop it along the lar- 
 board yard-arm, if got up on the starboard side ; if got up on the 
 larboard side, the contrary. Overhaul well down to main or fore 
 rigging, the starboard lifts and braces ; the larboard into the top, 
 and stop them ready for rigging. Man the hawser, and " sway 
 away." When the upper yard arm is clear of the top, put over 
 the brace and lift, (or block,) and " sway higher ;" rig the lower 
 yard arm, take in the slack of the lifts and braces, then cast ofi" 
 the stops on the upper yard-arm, and when the yard is well up, 
 take two or three turns with the parrel-lashing ; bouse well up 
 on the starboaid or lower lifts, overhaul the larboard, and the 
 
OR fOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. §9 
 
 stops being cast off, the yard will fall across. Secure the parrel; 
 square the yard by braces and lifts, and cast off and umeeve the 
 hawser. 
 
 Note. — In large ships the lifts and brace blocks are generally 
 placed on the yard arms before the yard is sent aloft. The 
 braces are rove when the yard goes up. I would also recom- 
 mend double yard ropes in heavy ships in crossing topsail yards ; 
 also to use the burtons. 
 
 164.— FITTING FLY-BLOCKS FOR TOPSAIL HAL- 
 LIARDS. 
 
 The blocks spliced into the tyes are so called. They ar6 large 
 flat blocks ; some double, sometimes single, and often one double 
 and one single to each. The tyes are sometimes spliced taut 
 round them ; but this way is bad ; as the rope stretches, the • 
 blocks cant, and are split. Also a long-eye is sometimes made 
 in the end of the tye, and the fly block kept in its place by a 
 round seizing passed close above the block. The block in gene- 
 ral use is seized into a strap, leaving sufficient space above to 
 splice the tye in ; or a thimble spliced into the end of the tye, 
 and the fly block strapped with a pair of sister hooks, to hook to 
 the tyes. Either of the latter ways are preferable to the former. 
 
 Wken the yard is on the cap, these blocks should be square 
 with the top rails. Before turning in and setting up for a full 
 due, an iron traveler is put on the topmast backstay, which is 
 seized to the fly-block, — it prevents the block from striking or 
 injuring the top when lowering ; it also keeps the turns out of 
 the halliards. There is sometimes a traveling jackstay fitted 
 for this purpose. 
 
 Reeving Topsail Halliards. — When rove double, a single 
 block is strapped into, or hooked, to a swivel bolt in the after 
 part of the chains ; one end of the halliards is spliced into the 
 upper part of the strap of this block, or bent into a becket put 
 there for the purpose, and the end seized. The other end is then 
 rove through one of the sheaves in the double block in the tye, 
 then through the sheave in the single block in the chains, 
 through the other sheave in the double block, and through a 
 leading block on deck. 
 
 The Mizen Topsail Halliards have only one tye. The 
 standing part is clenched or half-hitched to the strap, with the 
 ihirable, at the mizen-topmast head, and a single block spliced 
 
90 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 or secured in the end. Another single block is strapped into a 
 swivel bolt in the mizen chains, and the halliards rove as with 
 two sin-gle blocks; the fall rove through a leading block or cheek. 
 CSoine ships have a treble fly block). 
 
 165.— EiGGiNa topga:llant YAEDS. 
 
 They are got on board like the topsail yards. Leather the 
 slings, seize-on the D thimble, parrel, and quarter blocks, rolling 
 tackle straps,— tar the yard arms— foot ropes the same as topsail 
 yards— stirrups one to each foot rope— iron jackstays secured 
 to the yard with staples, fitted the same way as rope. (Iron sling- 
 bands are allowed by the new regulation.) 
 
 The lifts are single ; an eye is spUced to fit the yard-arm : 
 the other end is rove through the thimble, or buU's-eye, or a 
 half sister-block in the topgallant-rigging ; a thimble turned into 
 the end, and a lanyard spliced into it, and set up to another 
 thimble strapped round a futtock plate inside the dead-eye in 
 the top, or set up on the end. 
 
 Braces. — A single block is seized into 
 a single strap, having an eye to fit the 
 yard-arm. If a single brace, an eye is 
 spliced to fit the yard-arm, and the lift and 
 brace marled together. 
 
 The quarter-blocks are double ; are seiz- 
 ed into a single strap, an eye being spliced in each end ; — they 
 lash together on the top of the yard — the foremost sheave for 
 top-gallant clewline, after one for royal sheet. 
 
 Parrel. — A long and short leg. Take a piece of rope, cut it 
 the required length, and splice the ends together round the yard. 
 In one bight seize a thimble, with a round seizing ; the other 
 one round the yard; pass a round seizing close to the yard, round 
 the parrel on the after side ; splice a lanyard into the thimble, 
 and fit a short strap the same way on the Other quarter. These 
 straps are sometimes served, and often covered with leather, — 
 they go inside the cleats. Grommets can be worked if preferred, 
 and dispense with the thimbles, as they are likely to injure the 
 mast. Jaws are also recommended. The patent iron parrels are 
 now in use in the navy, but are found not to answer for ships of 
 war. 
 
 Tripping beckets are fitted one on each yard-arm ; work grum- 
 met straps on quarter of yard, seize a thimble in with a round 
 seizing passed between the yard and thimble. A grommet is 
 put on the yard rope, to fit the yard-arm, "when getting ready fo^- 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. gj 
 
 ciossing. Also, a lizard; a small piece of rope with a thimble 
 spliced in one end, the other whipped. It goes on the yard rope 
 before being bent to the yard. 
 
 When ready for going aloft, the yard rope is bent on, and the 
 yard stopped to the lower rigging ; the main on the starboard 
 side, fore and mizen on the larboard side. 
 
 Note. — Royal yards, opposite sides, to the topgallant yards. 
 
 166.— TOPGALLANT BRACES. 
 
 Fore. — If double, the standing part is clove-hitched round the 
 first and second shrouds of the main topmast rigging, or crotch 
 of the stay, through the block for the brace, through another 
 single tail block, secured to the first and second shrouds (the 
 same as, and under the standing part), through lubber's hole, 
 and through a fair leading sheave on deck. 
 
 They are often led forward from the blocks in the topmast rig- 
 ging, through a leading block strapped round the eyes of the 
 fore rigging, or after part of the top, and thiough fair leading 
 sheaves on the forecastle. -In ships of war, I prefer them abaft. 
 The block in the topmast rigging is fitted as follows :— 
 
 A single piece of rope is spliced round a single block, having a 
 tail about three or four feet Long ; clove-hitch this tail round the 
 first shroud, then round the second, and seize the end. I have 
 seen a round turn taken round the first, and a clove-hitch round 
 the second ; either plan will do, but if neatness is studied, clove- 
 hitch round the second and thud ; this will bring the block under 
 the rigging, and out of sight. If rove single, the block is secured 
 the same way — an eye made in the end of the brace to fit the 
 yard-arm ; the other end rove through the block on deck, as 
 before. 
 
 A whip is sometimes put on the brace, the block spliced in 
 close up to the cat-harpens, which answers veiy well. One end 
 of the whip is spliced into a bolt on deck, the other led through a 
 fair leading sheave or block. 
 
 Main. — The main topgallant braces are fitted the same as the 
 fore, with the exception of leading. The standing part is se- 
 cured in the same manner to the foremost, or second and third 
 shrouds of mizen-topmast rigging; the hauling part before all, 
 through lubber's hole, and thiough a sheave in the rack, or a 
 leading block, to the side abreast of the mizen-mast. 
 
 Mizen. — The mizen topgallant braces are single. An eye is 
 spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm. The other end is rove 
 
92 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR, 
 
 through a single block ; seized into a single strap, and secured 
 to an eye-bolt on each side of the main cap, and through lubber's 
 hole on deck. I have seen these braces led through blocks in 
 main topmast rigging, in harbor, where appearance has been 
 much studied. 
 
 167.— CROSSING TOPGALLANT YAEDS. 
 
 One man stands on the topmast cap ; two on the crosstrees 
 (one on each side), one of the latter shoves off the grommet, and 
 rigs the upper yard-arm ; the man on the opposite side bears 
 off, — one man stands in the topmast rigging to put on the lower 
 lift and brace ; another stands on the topsail yard, ready to bear 
 off; the lower lift should be well manned in the top. 
 
 When the order " sway out of the chains," is given, the man 
 standing on the fore part of the top bears the yard rope off, to 
 clear the yard-arm of the top — when clear, " sway away." When 
 the yard-arm is clear of the crosstrees, the grommet is shoved off, 
 the upper lift and brace is put on, and the order " sway higher " 
 is given ; then the lower lift and brace is put on, and the lift 
 hauled well taut. The man on the cap has the parrel-lashing 
 in his hand, ready for passing ; he reeves a turn, and on the 
 order, " sway cross," he hauls on the lizard. The lower lift, is 
 boused on, and the yard falls across; the braces are hauled taut, 
 and the yard squared. 
 
 When a ship is going to sea, the lifts and braces are stopt to 
 the jackstay, and the topgallant yard ropes toggled for halliards, 
 or half-hitched over the upper block. To toggle the halliards : 
 Strap two single blocks, with single straps, leaving an eye below 
 the seizing, in one, to take a small lashing ; in the other to take 
 the bight of the topgallant yard rope. Lash the block with the 
 small eye, to the eye of a lower shroud, and reeve the yard rope 
 through it. To the strap of the other block secure the toggle 
 with a nettle lanyard. 
 
 Note. — Separate halliards may be fitted to dog on to the yard 
 rope, with a double -tailed lizard, and hook the lower block to 
 an eye-bolt in the top, which answers a better purpose. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 93 
 
 168.— ROYAL YARDS 
 
 Are fitted the same as topgallant yards, and rigged the same, 
 with the exception of the quarter blocks, which are single. In 
 small vessels they have no jackstay, the sail being bent to the 
 yard. Topgallant sails are often bent the same way, but jack- 
 stays keep the sail much better up on the yard. Some prefer a 
 wooden batten nailed to the yard. Iron jackstays are now used 
 for all vessels in the navy. {New Regulation.) 
 
 Fore Royal Braces. — Two blocks fitted in one strap, as span 
 blocks, are lashed round the main topgallant mast-head ; the 
 blocks standing on the foremost quarter, on each side. Between 
 the after part of the fore topmast trestle-trees, a piece of wood 
 with two sheaves, the same size, and a large one in the centre, is 
 secured.* The braces are single, an eye is spliced in one end to 
 fit the royal yard-arm ; the other end rove through the span- 
 blocks, back again through the sheaves in the fore topmast 
 trestle-trees, and into the fore top. 
 
 The blocks are often strapped separately, and seized into the 
 strap with a round seizing, leaving room for a seizing to be 
 passed through the strap, and round the eye of the topgallant 
 stay, before going on the funnel, one on each side. This will 
 not look so neat as span blocks, and are not so easily taken off 
 and put on. The blocks for royal braces are often seized on the 
 topgallant stay, with the idea of cleaving the foot of the main 
 royal. 
 
 Main royal braces are fitted in the same manner as the fore, 
 and led through single blocks on mizen-topgallant mast-head, 
 and back into the main top; or throug:h lubber's hole in the 
 mizen-top on deck. The latter is decidedly the best plan, as 
 they can be much better attended to when under the eye of the 
 oflScer of the watch, than when left to the topmen. 
 
 Mizen royal braces are fitted the same as the others, and lead 
 through sheaves in the after ends of the main topmast crosstrees. 
 and into the top^ 
 
 Crossing royal yards. — They are crossed the same as the top- 
 gallant yards. When they are rigged aloft, the topgallant masts 
 should be fitted with jacks for the men to stand on, not ody to 
 expedite the crossing, but also for the safety of the men. They 
 are made of iron, and put on the topgallant mast immediately 
 over the hounds ; the jack is made round to fit the mast, and is 
 
 ♦ This piece ol wood is called a fair-leading chock. 
 
g^ THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 put on before the funnel, if used. The horns on each side are 
 of a propoitioned length to the mast; an eye is turned in the 
 end of each horn, for the loyal rigging to reeve through, and set 
 up as before. When no royal rigging, the breast backstay 
 should be rove through the eye^ and set up in the top wiih a 
 gun tackle purchase, fitted between the two after dead-eyes. 
 
 Royal rigging is quite unnecessary, in my opinion, except in 
 large vessels— the breast and standing backstay is sufficient. 
 
 Royal sheets are either toggled or bent to the clews rove 
 through sheaves, in the yard-arm's, and through the after-sheave 
 in quarter block, on the topgallant yard ; through leading thimiles 
 on the topmast rigging, and into the top, or on deck. 
 
 169.— ROYAL AND TOPGALLANT GEAR. 
 
 When the topgallant and royal yards are sent on deck, the 
 topgallant sheets are stopped to the topmast-head, and hauled 
 taut on deck. I have seen them in harbor stopt to the tye-blocka 
 close down to the yard. The former is decidedly the best plan, 
 as they are always ready for bending ; the clewlines and bow- 
 lines, are also stopped at the mast-head. 
 
 The lifts and braces are taken outside the topgallant rigging, 
 and the eyes stopt to the rigging at the topmast-head, before 
 all ; — ^liauled taut on deck, and in the top. 
 
 Royal gear is stopt at the topgallant mast-head, and hauled 
 taut on deck, or in the top. 
 
 170.— SPANKER-BOOM, TRYSAIL-MAST, AND GAFF. 
 
 The spanker-boom, trysail-mast, and gaff, may be got on board 
 by the yard and stay-tackle. Put the hoops on the trysail-mast, 
 and stop them ; sway away by a pendant tackle, and point the 
 mast through the after c-hock of the trestle-trees ; lash its head 
 to the mizen mast-head ; leather the boom in the wake of the 
 crutch; seize on sheet-blocks, and reeve the sheets; tar the 
 boom, put over the foot-ropes, which are set up, just outside the 
 taffrail ; boom-guys, which go with a gun-tackle purchase to 
 the quarters. Hook the topping lift to an iron span around 
 the boom ; ship and key the boom ; seize on a cleat to belay the 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 95 
 
 outhaulers to ; then leather the jaws of the gaff, fit throat, and 
 peak-halliard blocks, brail blocks,* vangs and blocks, — reeve 
 throat and peak-halliards, hoist up the gqff, and haul taut the 
 vangs. 
 
 The spencer gaff may be rigged nearly m the same manner. 
 
 Chocks should be fitted to go in between the lower and trysail 
 mast-heads. Copper the mast, in the way of the jaws, 
 
 171.— SPANKER-BOOM SHEET AND GUYS IN ONE. 
 
 Into a bolt, with a thimble in each quarter, strap a double 
 block with a single strap ; then seize into two grommet-straps, 
 worked round the boom, (wormed and covered,) two single blocks, 
 one on each side, just outside the taffrail, or crutch. Secure these 
 blocks in their straps, with a round seizing passed between the 
 block and the boom. The rope for the guys is middled and cut ; 
 then an eye, or cut splice made to fit the boom end. Take the 
 larboard guy, and reeve it through one of the sheaves in the 
 double block on the quarter, through the single , block on the 
 boom, through the other sheave in the double block, through a 
 fair leader in the side, and pull it up on deck. The starboard 
 one is rove in the same manner, through the block on the star- 
 board quarter. 
 
 172.— SPANKER-BOOM TOPPING-LIFTS. 
 
 A cheek with a sheave in it, is bolted on each side of the 
 mizen trestle-trees, under the rigging ; instead of this cheek, a 
 single block is often strapped into a bolt, with a thimble in it. 
 On the boom outside the taffrail, is an iron hoop, with an eye- 
 bolt on each side, and thimbles in them. Parcel the thimbles m 
 the outside bolts, and into them splice the topping lifts ; the 
 other end reeve down through the cheeks on the trestle-trees, or 
 block, and sjplice a parceled thimble in the end, for the purpose 
 of hooking the jigger-tackle^ 
 
 * Cheek-blpcks are allowed, fitted to all gafls, by new regulation. (See Black 
 Table.) 
 
96 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 173.— A BRia OR SCHOONER'S MAIN-BOOM. 
 
 There being so little boom projecting over the stem, guys are 
 unnecessary. On each quarter, strap a double block, and one 
 on each side of the boom, in separate straps : through these reeve 
 the sheet, — the standing-part from the strap of the quarter-block, 
 and hauUng part through one of the sheaves of the quarter-block. 
 In working with the watch they are found very useful ; one man 
 can ease over, while two more can take in the slack. A boom- 
 tackle is fitted with a pendant, to hook forward to an eye-bolt 
 outside, and used when necessary. {Also crotch-ropes). 
 
 174.— REEVING PEAK-HALLIARDS. 
 
 The standing-part is spliced into an eye-bolt underneath, oi 
 bottom of the block ; then the other end rove through the inside 
 block on the gaff, from forward, aft ; then through a sheave in 
 the double block, through the outer block on the gaff, fi-om for- 
 ward, aft, and down through the sheave in the double block, and 
 through a leading sheave in the bitts, or block on deck. 
 
 ITou may dispense with one block, and splice the standing- 
 part round the gaff. 
 
 175.— REEVING THROAT-HALLIARDS. 
 
 The standing-part is spliced into the single block, which is 
 hooked to the gaff, up through the double block under the top, 
 down through the single block, up again through the other 
 sheave in double block, and through a leader, opposite to the 
 peak-halliards. 
 
 176.— TO FIT SINGLE VANGS. 
 
 Middle the required length of rope, and seize a cuckold's-neck 
 in the bight to fit the gaff-end, and lead one end on each side. 
 The cuckold's-neck should be neatly covered with canvass, and 
 two snug seizings put on each quarter of the neck, showing two 
 parts of the rope on the top of the gaff, and one underneath. 
 Paint the eye the same color as the gaff. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 177.— DOUBLE VANGS. 
 
 97 
 
 Seize into each bight of a long grommet strap, a single block, 
 and secuie the strap round the end of the gaff, outside the rig- 
 ging cleats, with a lashing passed round the strap underneath 
 the gaff, and over each block. Splice the standing part of the 
 fall into a bolt ; reeve the other end through the block on the 
 gaff, and through a single block strapped into a bolt, also in the 
 bulwarks. Blocks fitted in this way are called span-blocks. 
 This is decidedly the best plan, as the purchase can be of use 
 until hauled close down on deck. Pendants are now seldom used. 
 
 178.— FITTING GAFFS WITH CHEEKS, OR BRAIL- 
 BLOCKS. 
 
 Close to the jaws, outside the single blocks for the throat- 
 brails, secure two double blocks, strapped in the same manner as 
 the outer blocks us&d for the peak-brails. The peak-brails, after 
 being rove through the outer blocks, are led through the double 
 ones in the jaws, and on deck through leading blocks. 
 
 Gaffs are also fitted with cheeks, instead of blocks; and 
 sheaves cut in the jaws for the throat-brails, and fair leaders ; 
 which is the approved plan at present, and is very neat. Some 
 ships in the service have their gaffs fitted to hook to an iron 
 band, with a hook in the end of the gaff, instead of jaws. Others 
 travel up and down an iron groove or railway, fitted to the lower 
 mast (using no trysail-mast). Others again use a wooden bf.t- 
 ten nailed to the mast ; some an iron jackstay, and some a rope 
 one. The try-sail masts are preferable, in a gale of wind. 
 
 179.— GETTING UP A GAFF. 
 
 Pass the jaw rope ; man the throat and peak-halliards, the 
 former best, and sway the gaff up; when high enough, rack the 
 halliards with spun-yarn to their own parts aloft, and the hal- 
 liards can be hauled up, and coiled in the top out of the way. 
 Steady the gaff amidships, by the vangs. 
 
 Note. — ^AU gaffs should be peaked, or elevated to an angle 
 parallel with the mizen-topmast stay. 
 7 
 
98 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 180.— LOWEK STUDDING-SAIL OE SWINGING-BOOMS 
 
 The lower swinging-booms have goose-necks fitted on one 
 end, which in line-of-battle ships and frigates, hook to the fore- 
 most part of the fore chains, to iron straps fitted for the purpose. 
 They are got in their places when brought alongside, with a 
 burton from the foremost shroud, and another on the after back- 
 stay. One -third from the outer end, an iron band is fitted, to 
 which the rigging is hooked. When secured for sea, they are 
 got close into the side and lashed to a bolt for the purpose. 
 When in harbor, in large ships, they are sometimes hooked to 
 eye-bolts in the bends, which bringing them lower down, cause 
 the boats, when moored, to ride easier. A small Jacob's-ladder is 
 fitted to the fore chains, and sets up to the boom close into the 
 side ; also one or two seized on the boom some distance out, for 
 the men to get into their boats with. 
 
 The fore guy is hooked to the boom, the other end taken for- 
 ward and rove through a single block strapped in a bolt in the 
 bowsprit cap, and led in on the forecastle. It is sometimes rove 
 through a block on the spritsail-yard, and is of great use in get- 
 ting the boom from the side ; if no spritsail-yard, blocks can be 
 fitted round the outriggers, or whiskers. 
 
 The after guy is hooked to the boom, and the other end led in 
 through a sheave in the side ; in large ships, on the main deck, 
 close before the gangway port; in flush-deck vessels through the 
 bulwarks. In large vessels they are rove double. 
 
 The topping lift is hooked to the boom the same as the guys. 
 
 The topping lift block. — Take a single block, large enough 
 for the rope to be rove in ; seize it into a single strap, wormed 
 and served, leaving a small eye beyond the seizing, to take sev- 
 eral parts of small rope. Seize this block on to the second 
 shroud (if only one swifter forward), half-way between the fut- 
 tock-stave, and seizing of the eye, passing sufiicient turns to 
 secure it well. When seized in this way there will be more 
 space between the shrouds, than if seized closer up, which will 
 allow the topping lift to work clearer, and cause no chafing. I 
 have seen this block seized to the eye of a shroud well up, but 
 prefer the former. 
 
 The lizard.— On i\i& topping lift put a large-sized thimble; 
 round this thimble splice a piece of rope about five fathoms long; 
 for a large ship a piece of three-inch rope would be large enough. 
 Reeve the topping lift between the first and second futtock 
 shrouds, through the block, and send the end between the 
 shrouds on deck. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 99 
 
 A lufF-tackle purchase is often fitted to the topping lift, half- 
 way up the fore rigging. 
 
 Hoist up ship and key the boom; put on single blocks for for- 
 ward and after guys, reeve, hook, and haul taut the topping lift. 
 
 iVbife.-Several ships in the service have span blocks fitted across 
 their fore cap, and a clump block, or bull's-eye, fitted on each fore 
 yard-arm, abaft the lift block. The topping lift is rove through 
 the block on the cap, then through the one on the yard-arm, to 
 the boom ; which does away with the lizard, and when the boom 
 is alongside, at sea, the topping lift can be unhooked from the 
 boom, and triced up with the rest of the studding sail gear, 
 under the fore yard. This method is much approved of in large 
 ships. 
 
 181.— LOWER STUDDING SAIL OUTHAUL, 
 , BLOCK, &o., &c. &c. 
 
 Seize a single block into a double strap, leaving an eye to fit 
 the boom end, wormed and served. Then take a piece of six- 
 thread stuff, and pass several turns round the strap and the bolt, 
 and hitch it round all parts. 
 
 TopmMst stvdding-sail tack-block.— Take, a single block the 
 required size, strap it with a good piece of rope, leaving a tail 
 long enough to clove-hitch round the boom, and seize to the bolt 
 in the end. This block is often strapped round the boom, and 
 kept in its place with a bolt in the end of the boom, or a hole 
 bored for the purpose. Sheaves are sometimes cut, but they are 
 bad, as the least slue in the boom takes away whatever purchase 
 the sheave would give. 
 
 Lower studding-sail halliard block, Sfc, Sec. — Seize a single 
 block into a single strap, leaving an eye to fit the boom taut. A 
 small cleat should be nailed on the boom, to prevent the block 
 slipping in, or the strap secured with a bolt. When the halliards 
 are rove, a single block is hooked to the burton pendant, or lash- 
 ed. The pendant is sometimes fitted with a block spliced in one 
 end, and secured to the mast-head, over. the rigging, with a 
 lashing passed through an eye spliced in the other, and round 
 the mast-head. This is quite unnecessary, as the block lashed 
 or hooked to the pendant, answers the same purpose. 
 
 Reeving the halliards.— Reeve through the block to the pen- 
 dant, before the rigging, then through the block on the boom 
 
IQO THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Sead the hauling part through lubber's hole on deck, and through 
 a leading block. 
 
 The boom brace is spliced round the boom between the blocks, 
 A single block is spliced in the end, half-waj^ between the boom; 
 when th e yard is square, reeve a fall. The standing part, when 
 the sail is set, is clove-hitched round the foremost shroud of the 
 main rigging ; the other end through a leading tail block to the 
 same place. Small ships are not allowed boom braces. 
 
 For inner halliards, use the fore clew-jigger, hooked to the for- 
 ward part of the top. When the sail is not set, and the boom 
 rigged in, the inner halliards are also used to trice the gear up; 
 it is then stopped with yarns snugly to the jackstay, and the ends 
 of the gear coiled inside the futtock-shrouds, being previously 
 stopped together. 
 
 183.— TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL SPAN BLOCKS, 
 HALLIARDS, &c. 
 
 Seize tw ingle blocks into each bight of a strap, long enough 
 to go across the topmast cap ; allowing the blocks to hang clear 
 on each side. Take a piece of small rope, and pass a lashing 
 round the strap, ovei- both blocks, under the cap, and then seize 
 the blocks to eye-bolts in the cap. 
 
 To make the strap, take a piece of rope of sufficient size and 
 lenjth ; worm and serve it, splice both ends together, and secure 
 the blocks in their places with round seizuigs. Through these 
 blocks reeve tHe halliards ; first through the span blocks down , 
 take the upper end and reeve it down on the foreside of the top- 
 sail yard, through the block on the neck of the boom-iron ; the 
 other end is sent down abaft the foremost crosstrees, before the 
 topmast rigging, through lubber's hole on deck, and through a 
 leading block. "When not in use at sea, the bending end is 
 hitched round the clew of the topsail, and the haulmg part 
 hauled up m the top. In harbor they are generally unrove, and 
 the span-blocks taken down. 
 
 The downhaul is bent to the sail and made up in it. 
 
 Sheets are also bent to the sail and made up. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. IQl 
 
 183.— TOPGALLANT STUDDING-SAIL BOOMS, &c. 
 
 Tricing lines—Are single. A single block is seized on to a 
 shroud, close up, and a fall rove through it; one end is bent to 
 the boom, the other sent into the top. When in harbor, a thimble 
 should be fitted a few feet above the topsail yard, on the foremost 
 shroud, and the tricing hne rove through it. As everything is 
 generally done in a hurry, trying who will be first, the booms 
 a:e hardly ever properly secured, if lowered, after loosing to dry, 
 and the men running out on the yards with the booms swinging 
 about, frequently occasion accider^ts. 
 
 Topmast studding-sail boom. — When no boom brace is allow- 
 ed and no lower studding-sail set, carrying the topmast studding- 
 sail, blowing fresh, a brace can be put on, without rigging the 
 boom in, as follows: — Take a belaying-pin, or anything that 
 will answer for a toggle, and secure it to the lower studding-sail 
 halliards, with a clove-hitch round the toggle, hauling the parts 
 well taut ; haul the toggle close to the block oh the boom, and 
 belay ; and it will answer equally as well as a brace. The in- 
 ner end of the halliards should not be let go, for in case the 
 lower studding-sail requires to be set, the end can be hauled in, 
 the toggle taken out, and the halliards overhauled for bending. 
 
 Note. — Should the boom top up much, and require a martin- 
 gale more than a brace, toggle the halliards the same way, and 
 bouse it well taut through a leading-block, perpendicular to the 
 boom. 
 
 184.— GETTING STUDDING-SAIL BOOMS UP. 
 
 All studding-sail booms have two holes in the inner end, for 
 a heel-lashing, and strap for the in-and-out-jigger, and sometimes 
 a sheave in the other end for the tack. Take a piece of rope 
 long enough for the heel-lashing ; make a knot (a wall and 
 crowned), in one end ; reeve it through the hole in the boom end, 
 haul through to the knot, and whip the other end ; with the 
 latter take two half-hitches, a Uttle inside the sheaves, or outer 
 end, and seize the end to the boom. Take a tail-block and half- 
 hitch it half-way out the fore or main topsail yard, according to 
 the boom required to be got up. Thi^ough this block, reeve a 
 rope as a whip, (if a heavy boom, it should be a double one,) 
 bend one end to the span, made with the heel-lashing, so as to 
 balance the boom ; the other reeve through a leading block on 
 
J 02 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 deck. Stop the hoisting part to the boom end by the sheave, 
 and sway away. When high enough, cut the stops at the boom- 
 end, and the boom will hang in the whip, on a line with the 
 yard ; point it through the boom-iron, — cast off the whip and 
 span, and secure the heel-lashing, rigging boom out to square 
 mark. 
 
 185.— TOPGALLANT STUDDING-SAIL GEAK. 
 
 If blocks in the topgallant rigging, the halliards are rove 
 through them ; one end is led into the top, abaft all, the other 
 through the jewel-block on the yard-arm. Jewel blocks are 
 single blocks, seized into single straps, having an eye to go over 
 the bolt in the topgallant yard-arm. A small toggle is secured 
 to the strap with a knittle lanyard. The eye in the strap is put 
 over the bolt, and the toggle put in — the upper end of the hal- 
 liards are rove through this block, on the foreside of the topgal- 
 lant yard. When the sail is not bent, the studding-sail halliards 
 are overhauled down, and hitched to the foremost shroud ready 
 for bending. The jewel-blocks are always taken off, when get- 
 ting ready to send the yards down, and an overhaul knot made 
 on the end of the halliards, to prevent them fiom unreeving from 
 the blocks. Whenever the order is given to "unbend the top- 
 gallant gear," the jewel-blocks must be taken off. 
 
 Tacks. — Sheaves are sometimes cut in the boom ends, but as 
 they hardly ever answer well, and generally cause delay, and 
 likewise require more men to get the tack out, blocks are de- 
 cidedly preferable. Tail-blocks are best, as they can be so easily 
 taken off and put on. Clove-hitching round the boom, and the 
 end secured to the eye-bolt, is preferable to having a hole bored 
 in the boom for the tail to reeve through, as it only weakens it, 
 and is not necessary. The tack is rove through this block, and 
 when the sail is to be set, the inner end is bent to the clew of the 
 sail ; the outer end led to the after part of the top, where it is 
 hauled out, and generally belayed to a shroud or cleat. 
 
 iVoi'e.— Belaying either the halliards or tack to the rigging is 
 bad, as they are constantly coming up. Cleats should be nailed 
 on the after part of the top for the tacks. Two small tail-blocks, 
 one on each side, secured to the after futtock-plate, for leading 
 clocks, are of greal use in getting the tacks out. 
 
1. Paint and oil room. 
 
 2. General Store-rooHL 
 
 3. Bread-room. 
 
 4. Coal-locker. 
 
 A Representation of the Internal Arrangements and Stowage of the Houi 
 of a First Class Sloop-of-War, tJ. S. N. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILOHS' ASSISTANT. JQ3 
 
 186-STOWING-HOLD AND SPIRIT-KOOM. (BALLAST 
 AND TANKS). 
 
 limjlVh^* *J^ ^"^^^'^ ^'^ '^^^'' f™'" <=^'P^ «i- dii-t, and place the 
 hmbei boards Clean, sweep, and white-wash the hold: place 
 hoop-poles athwart-ships for dunnage, as near to each other as 
 possible, so that each pig of iron will rest at least on two of them. 
 The rust should be well beaten off the ballast, and each pig 
 white-washed As the stowing of a ship's hold and ballast, de- 
 pends so much on her build, it is not possible to lay down any 
 precise rule; it is, however, recommended to preserve a strict 
 hne of W in the position of the tanks. To effect this, and to 
 produce the desired uniformity of surface, the slower must com- 
 mence the stowage from the midship stanchions in the hold and 
 work outwards regularly towards the direction of the w'inffs 
 The slightest irregularity of surface in the tops of the tanks may 
 be the means of throwing out the general stowage, and ultimate- 
 ly causing a considerable deficit in the quantity of water which 
 the hold is calculated to contain. 
 
 A short, though rather a rough way of calculating the weight 
 ot ballast required, is to allow one ton of ballast, for ten of ton- 
 age, for each class of vessels.* 
 
 Winging the ballast tends to make a vessel roll, and building 
 up a-midships to keep her steady. Without venturing on details, 
 it may be remarked that the plan of keeping the ballast in the 
 body of the ship, and clear of the extremities, seems to be most 
 generally approved of; while at the same time care should be 
 taken to keep her on, or parallel to the line of flotation, designa- 
 ted Uy the builder. The ballast in the spirit-room, should be a 
 continuation of that in the hold. Make a draft of the ballast, 
 indicating the exact number of pigs, the position they occupy, 
 and their exact weight. 
 
 Previous to getting on board the water tanks, a plan of stow- 
 ing them may be easily arranged by means of rough models of 
 them in wood, which a carpenter can easily make. In getting 
 the tanks from the store, attention should be directed to the lid- 
 sockets, which if not properly lined with fearnought, will allow 
 much of their conterits to escape in rolling ; as also to the obtain- 
 ing the proper quantity of keys, and see that they are short 
 enough to work between the deck and tanks, if the vessel is a 
 small one. White-washing tanks inside, is found by experience 
 to be highly useful in keeping the water pure. The screws for 
 letting off the water require very careful treatment ; for they are 
 . apt, if once started, never to be so tight again ; and after being 
 
 * The weight of chain cables and water tanks, are considered in this calcula- 
 ion, also half of the shot. Also a consultation with the builder. 
 
^Q4 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 three or four years in use, the nuts decay, rendering the keys 
 useless. If the water cannot be turned off from the tanks by the 
 proper mode, there seems to be no other way of getting rid of it, 
 in a case of necessity, but by forcing a hole in the bottom with a 
 crowbar. ..... 
 
 The tanks should be stowed during the time the ship is rigging. 
 
 Note.— By a late order, the valve in the bottom of all water 
 .anks is stopped up, and the screw taken out. Those that are 
 now made new, have no screw. There is also an alteration in 
 the lids for the better. 
 
 187 STOWING- CASKS. 
 
 Strike down their beds, place and whitewash them ; then com- 
 mence stowing the casks at the after bulk-head in the hold, ob- 
 serving to have the largest casks in the kelson tier, and the 
 gauges of the cask on each side of the kelson, to correspond. Be 
 careful that the bung-holes are all up, the bilge free, and head 
 clear. 
 
 After completing the first tier, go on with the second, placing 
 hanging beds between the casks, and stowing barked wood in all 
 the breakages. As the tiers approach the wings, let the size of 
 the cask diminish. 
 
 188 — STOWAGE OF PKOVISIONS, NAVAL STORES, &e. 
 
 Stow the beef on the larboard side, and the pork, starboard 
 side ; with the flour, rice, and beans in the wings ; chocking all 
 fore and aft with wood. The casks in the spirit-room are stowed 
 in the same manner, with the exception that the stowage is com- 
 menced forward, instead of aft. Whiskey, molasses, and vinegar 
 are always stowed in casks. The liquors of the medical depart- 
 ment, and purser's stores, are generally stowed in the spirit-room. 
 Dry provisions should not be stowed under the wet, and should 
 be placed in such a manner, that when required, they may be 
 got at without disturbing all the hold. 
 
 Make a draft of the lower, and riding tiers, and spirit-room, 
 with the guages of all the casks on the draft; the number of 
 barrels, boxes, &c.,with the kind of provisions they contain. 
 
 The shot and wads may also be got on board, and stowed in 
 '.heir respective lockers. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. IQS 
 
 1 89.— STOWING CHAIN CABLES. 
 
 The chain cables are got on board through the hawse-holes,* 
 and paid down the main hatchway, into their respective lockers. 
 They are from ninety to one hundred and eighty fathoms in 
 length, and are slip-shackled, or lashed to the kelson. 
 
 Note. — See table of allowance of chain cable for class, &o 
 
 190.— TO GET ON BOAKD AND STOW THE HEMP 
 CABLES. 
 
 Hemp-cables are one hundred and twenty fathoms in length, 
 two are now allowed to all vessels, from a siiip of the line, to a 
 third class sloop of war, inclusive. The cables are taken from 
 the rope-walk, and coiled upon a car having a large hole in its 
 bottom, and after being transported to the vessel, or lighter at 
 the wharf, the upper end of the coil is passed down through all 
 the flakes, and through the hole in the bottom of the car, then 
 coiled away again in the lighter. By dipping the end in this 
 manner, grinds or kinks are pre\ented, and the cable is got into 
 the lighter, with Only one turn in it. 
 
 The lighter being towed off to the ship, haul under the bows; 
 place mats in the sides and sills of one of the forward ports ; get 
 the cables in on deck, and French-flake them fore and aft. They 
 are now with the same number of turns in them, as when they 
 left the rope-walk. See that the tiers are clear, and that the 
 gratings are properly placed for the cable to lay on. Pass the 
 end of the spare one below, and coil away with the sun, on the 
 starboard side of the tier ; make the coil as large as possible, 
 taking care not to have too many flakes in a sheave, as the in- 
 side strands of the inner ones would be injured, by breaking in. 
 
 Pass the ends of the starboard one on the larboard side, and 
 the larboard on the starboard side. Clinch them around the 
 main-mast, or to the beams, coil them away with the sun, lettirig 
 the ends remain out, to be pointed or tailed if necessary. Join 
 the pointed ends with a short splice, worming the tails along the 
 cable. The upper ends are crowned in the following manner, 
 viz. : clap a seizing round the cable about two fathoms fiom the 
 end, anil unlay it to the seizing. With the three inner strands 
 form an artificial eye; cut off the three next ones and woold 
 
 * If the vessel is alongside of the wharf, the chain-cables may be got in by a 
 doot, through the port, or over the rail. 
 
l^]^y THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 their ends; with the three outer ones, form a crown, worm the 
 ends along the cable, and clap on seizings in proportion. 
 
 The stream cable and messenger are coiled away in the tier 
 of the spare cable. The hawsers, if possible, should be stowed in 
 such a manner, that the end of every one could be passed up 
 together if required. 
 
 191.— CATHEAD STOPPEES. 
 
 When not fitted with the slip, or patent stoppers, a good piece 
 of rope, in proportion to the size of the anchor, has a stopper-knot 
 in one end, then rove through the cathead, and hauled taut. It 
 should be well wormed, parceled, and served in the way of the 
 cat-heads, and sufiiciently far towards the end, to take the ring 
 of the anchor. The end should have a becket put in, and point- 
 ed over. Take a piece of small rope, and splice it into the inside 
 yarns of the stopper, the same as a tail, or knot the yarns to- 
 gether ; then marl down, and point over. The becket should 
 be made large enough to take a good hauling-line, for the pur- 
 pose of hauling the end of the stopper in-board, after being rove 
 through the ring of the anchor. 
 
 192 SHANK PAINTER. 
 
 A piece of chain is secured to the side ; a large thimble, well 
 parceled, is put into the last link ; round this thimble splice the 
 piece of rope intended to make the tail of the shank-painter ; it 
 is the same sized rope as the cathead stopper. The other end 
 is pointed, with a becket in. 
 
 Note. — The patent iron slip or trick-stopper, is now generally 
 used in the service, by those who can procure them. They are 
 not allowed by the regulation, but quite a number of ships have 
 them fitted. 
 
 193.— FISH-DAVIT GEAR. 
 
 The da^vit is stept into a shoe in the fore-chains, for the pur- 
 pose. A double block is seized into a double strap, leaving an 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ryj 
 
 eye to fit the davit-head; both parts of the strap are marled 
 together. Another double block is seized into a double strap, 
 having a large hook* and thimble, to take the arm of the anchor. 
 Take a large single block, seize it into a single strap, leaving an 
 eye to fit the davit-head ; it will lay the opposite way to the 
 double one, and allow the hauling part of the fall to lead fore 
 and aft along the gangway ; or up aloft through a leader to the 
 fore pendants. 
 
 Back rope. — To the back of the hook, clove-hitch and seize 
 the end down, of a piece of rope, long enough to lead to the fore 
 chains, or into the head, when the fish-fall is overhauled. This 
 is taken forward when hooking the fish. Cat-back is used for 
 the same purpose — i. e., hooking the cat. 
 
 Guys, bolts, rigging, ^-c— In the fore and after side of the 
 davit, bolts are driven. The fore-guy is a piece of stout rope, 
 long enough to reach from the davit, when stepped, to the after 
 side of the cat-head, leaving room for lashing. The after-guy is 
 another piece of rope, long enough to reach the after part of the 
 fore-chains, and both fitted as follows: — splice a hook and 
 thimble in one end, into the other splice an eye, and into this 
 eye splice a lashing. 
 
 Get a jigger on the foremost swifter, and hoist the davit into 
 the step or shoe. Hook the guys to the bolts in the davit-head, 
 and set them up to the cat-head, and after part of the fore-chains. 
 Put over the double block, then the single, and reeve the fish-fall. 
 Take two tackles, clap a good strap round the foremast, hook 
 the double block to this strap, and the others to selvagee-straps 
 round the davit-head. The strap round the foremast should be 
 in a direct line whith the davit-head when perpendicular. These 
 tackles will answer for topping-lifts, and will be found much 
 better than the old-fashioned topping-lifts for stowing anchors. 
 
 Note.—l would recommend the iron davit, in preference to the 
 wooden one, on account of its being more durable, much neater, 
 more convenient for stowage and also requires less gear. 
 
 Properly called a fish-hook. 
 
108 
 
 THK KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 194.— GETTING ON BOARD, AND STOWING ANCHORS. 
 
 The fish-davits being rig- 
 ged, reeve and oveihaul the 
 cat and fish-falls, get the an- 
 chors into a ligliter, and tow 
 them under the bows; pass up 
 the stream-cable, and clench it 
 to the ring of the bower-an- 
 chor ; hook the cat, and run 
 the anchor up to the cat-head. 
 Pass the stopper, hook the fish, 
 and pass the shank-painter. 
 Unbend the stream-cable, and 
 bend it to the waist-anchor, , 
 then diop the lighter aft, and 
 secure her under the berth of 
 the anchor. Brace the fore 
 yard in, and the main yard up 
 as much as possible ; top them 
 up a little, hook a stout tackle 
 to act as a roUing-tackle, and bouse the lifts and trusses well 
 taut. Pass a lashing round the slings of the yard, to ease the 
 trusses. Hook both top-burtons to the yard-arm, and set well up 
 the opposite breast-backstays. Pass a strap lound the topmast, 
 just above the lower cap. Hook the double block of a stout pen- 
 dant-tackle to this strap, and the single one is hooked just with- 
 out the place where the bull's-eye for the pendant is to be lash- 
 ed; haul well taut the lifts, burtons, and pendant-tackles ahke — 
 reeve whips, and get up the triatic-stays. The bull's-eyes for 
 the pendants are lashed sufficiently far out on the yards, to allow 
 the anchor to clear the ship's side. Reeve the pendant up 
 through it, and clench the end to the lower mast-head ; have a 
 thimble in the lower end, to which the purchases are hooked. 
 Have a tbwartship-tackle in readiness, to bouse the anchor to 
 the gunwale ; lash the lower block of the main-purchases, to the 
 .:rown of the anchor, having guys from each fluke to keep it 
 steady. The fore purchase-block is lashed to the ring. 
 
 Rack the topsail-tye aloft, and hook the lower block of the 
 fore-topsail halliards to a stout strap, passed round the shank of 
 the anchor amidships, then lashed above the middle of the 
 upper arm of the stock. "Sway away;" when high enough, 
 haul over on the stay and thwart-ship tackles, and get the Ijill 
 of the anchor upon the gunwale. A cleat is nailed on the lower 
 part of the stock, a lashing passed under it, and round the tim- 
 ber-head in the after part of the forecastle-bulwark for the pur- 
 pose ; another lashing from the same place to the upper ami of 
 the stock, and fra-p all together. A shore is fitted from the side. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 109 
 
 on which the anchor rests, and a lashing passed round the 
 shank through a span-shackle bolt in the side for the purpose ; 
 the inside fluke rests on a bill-board on the fore end of the chess- 
 tree, or after part of the fore chains. Some ships stow their an- 
 chors further forward than others. The anchor being secured, 
 unbend the stream cable, and unlash purchases. 
 
 Drop the lighter round on the other side of the ship — shift 
 over the purchases, secure the yards, and get up the other bower 
 and waist-anchors in the same manner. When done, pass the 
 streain-cable below, and coil it down in the tier. 
 
 Note. — Belaying cat-head stopper. After being boused well 
 taut with a jigger, take as many turns as the rope will allow, 
 over the timber-head on the forecastle bulwarks, and seize it well 
 to its own part with spun-yarn. The shank-painter is set taut 
 and belayed in the same manner. 
 
 195.— BENDING THE CABLES 
 
 A rope is rove through the ring of the anchor, the end led in 
 through the hawse-hole, and bent to the cable with a timber- 
 hitch, three or four fathoms from the end, and stopt along to the 
 end of the cable. Haul out on the ring-rope, and when there is 
 sufficient of the end through the ring, cut the stops, unbend the 
 ring-rope, and form an inside clinch, having it smaller than the 
 ring of the anchor. The bends are put on opposite to each other, 
 and a small bend put on near the end to secure it. Render the 
 cables as far as possible through the clinch, and stop them to- 
 gether to prevent chafes, <fcc. 
 
 Note. The chain cables are shackled to the rings of the an- 
 chors ; then bend the buoys and buoy-ropes. 
 
 196.— TO RANGE AND STOPPER THE CABLES. 
 
 Before ranging the cables, they should be bitted, which is done 
 as follows ---When the cables are bent, haul up sufficient slack 
 to form a bight abaft the bitts ; throw the bight which is thus 
 formed over the head of the bitts (and in case it is to be weather 
 bitted take another turn round the cavil). In ranging, get a 
 tail-block over the hatchway, through which reeve a rope; over- 
 
,,Q THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 haul down, and hitch to the cable. Take the running part close 
 out to the side, bouse on the rope, and flake the cable fore and 
 aft the deck. Clap on deck and bitt-stoppers, before' and abaft 
 the bitts ; put on rounding at the range, if hemp, which is m- 
 tended to veer, and also have cable mats in readiness, to be used 
 as may be required. If a hemp-cable, a small range forward of 
 the part bitted ; if chain-cable it merely requires bitting ; ranging 
 is unnecessary. 
 
 JSlote. ^When the anchor is let go, veer from the locker 
 
 through the compressor— (i. e., supposing it to be a chain.) 
 
 197.— STOPPERS, &c., &c. 
 
 The trip-stoppers. — Both ends are made fast to eye-boks 
 under the after part of the fore-channels. The score in the erid 
 of the waist-anchor stock rests in the bight, and is used to trip 
 the anchor clear of the ship's side, when let go. 
 
 Deck-stoppers are hooked to bolts in the deck. They have a 
 knot worked in the end, with a lanyard fast to it. The lanyard 
 is passed round both the stopper and cable, abaft the knot, and 
 then wormed along the cable, forward of it. {See claw-stopper). 
 
 Ring-stoppers are ropes middled ; the bights are passed through 
 the deck-bolts, the ends rove through the bight, and dogged along 
 the cable. 
 
 Bitt-stoppers are tailed and rove through the sampson-knee 
 forward of the bitts, then taken over the cable abaft the bitts, 
 under again, and wormed along the cable forwaixi. A tackle 
 may be hooked to this, and used for veering. 
 
 Dog-stoppers are very long, and are used in the tiers. One 
 end is clenched round the main-mast, and the other wormed 
 along the cable. 
 
 The wing-stoppers are similar, but are clenched around the 
 orlop-deck beams in the wings. 
 
 198.— COMPRESSORS, OR C0MBING-8T0PPERS. 
 
 For hemp-cables they are very long, and are tailed. Two 
 holes are bored through the deck, abaft the after beam of the 
 hatch ; one end of the stopper is rove downwards through one of 
 vhe boles, passed under the cable, and rove up again, through the 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Other hole. Both ends are then dogged round the cable taut, so 
 as to nip it against the beam. 
 
 The compressor for chain-cables is an iron elbow, one end of 
 which is bolted to the forward beam of the hatch underneath 
 and intended to work on the bolt. The elbow goes round the 
 cable, having an eye in the other end, to which a luff-tackle is 
 hooked ; which being hauled on, stoppers the cable effectually. 
 
 199.— PUTTING ON NIPPERS. 
 
 Nippers should be from three to five fathoms in length, and 
 made of the best rope-yarns. They are used when heaving up 
 the anchor, and are passed as follows : — Lay the messenger on 
 the cable, and begin two or three fathoms abaft the hawse-hole ; 
 two round turns are first taken with the end of the nipper, round 
 the messenger, and held by a boy, then round both. The other 
 end is wormed round the cable, as the first was round the mes- 
 senger. When the strain becomes heavy, racking, and even 
 round turns may be used, having also small heavers, and selva- 
 gees to secure the ends ; taking care to have dry ones to use 
 when the anchor is up and down. 
 
 Note. — Some ships have done away with the nippers alto- 
 gether, and use nothing but the selvagee and heaver. Each 
 nipper-man provides two selvagees, and one heaver ; also an iron 
 pin of proper size to put through the links of the chain-cable, to 
 prevent the muddy chain from slipping through the strap. 
 
 200.— IRON CLAW-STOPPERS, AND CLEAR-HAWSE 
 SHACKLES. 
 
 These are used for chain-cables, instead of rope-stoppers, and 
 are found very convenient, and more durable than rope. They 
 are allowed to every ship in the service by the new regulation, 
 and are fitted as follows : — A piece of chain four feet long, is fit- 
 ted with a devil's-claw in one end, and a slip-hook in the other ; 
 a slip-ring also in the long link in the chain, for the end of the 
 slip-hook. 
 
112 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 301.— TO CUT, AND PASS A MESSENGEE. 
 
 The length should be equal to twice the distance from the 
 after part of the capstan, to tlie roller in the manger, and add 
 four times the circumference of the capstan-band ; this is suffi 
 cient for splicing in the eyes and taking turns. The messenger 
 is passed with three round turns, and then the eyes lashed with 
 the lanyard, figure-of-eight fashion. The part which is brought 
 to the cable is undermost. 
 
 Note. — Some messengers are fitted with a strap and toggle in- 
 stead of a lashing; this plan is much quicker than the old way. 
 The size of the strap, ought to be one half the size of the mes- 
 senger; in length it should be once the circumference of the cap- 
 stan on the bight. Instead of splicing the two ends of the strap 
 together, make a spritsail-sheet knot with the six strands, reeve 
 one bight of the strap through one eye of the messenger, the 
 other bight through the other eye, and toggle them together. 
 
 To dip a messenger. — Cast off the lashing, slack up the turns, 
 and pass the eye up or down, as necessary, between the turns 
 and capstan. Render the turns through each other, and pass 
 the lashing again. 
 
 202.— SPLICING EOPE-CABLES. 
 
 Out off the ropemaker's fag-end, and unlay the cable suffi- 
 ciently far for splicing. Take the inside yarns and lay them up 
 into three strands, equal to the piece of rope intended for the tails, 
 and spUce these small strands and tails together. Take the out- 
 side yarns and make them into three-yarn plaits or knittles, then 
 marl the remaining yarn down ove'r the splice and tail, and 
 point over all with the plaits or knittles. The cable is then open- 
 ed with setting fids and commanders, and the splice made, each 
 strand boused through with jiggers ; the ends are put in twice 
 on the tier, and once on the anchor part. Take a good piece of 
 small-rope, and pass it as a round-seizing, close to the splice, and 
 cross it on all sides. When finished it will look square; and 
 pass another, with smaller stuff, close to the ends. Worm the 
 ends into the lay of the cable, and pass three or four spun-yarn 
 seizings, at equal distances round them and the cable, to keep 
 them in the lay— make the seizings, and whip the ends of the 
 tails. The size of the seizing, and number of turns, depend on 
 the size of the cable. 
 
Temporary Rudder, Bitting a Cable, &c. &c. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ] \ 3 
 
 Bends. — The small vope used as seizings in clinching, are so 
 sailed. The end of the cable for clinching to the anchor should 
 be wormed with good strands, and backed with good spun-yain, 
 and the end capped. The worming should be long enough to 
 form the clinch, and the cable well tarred before and after its 
 being done. The lay of the cable opens in chnching, and being 
 wormed, it prevents the wet getting into the heart of the rope, or 
 lodging. To pass the bends, have a good piece of rope of the 
 length and size required ; bring both parts together, leaving one 
 end a third longer than the other ; then pass it round both parts 
 of the cable, and put both ends through the bight. Pass the 
 under turns with the short end, the upper or riding-turns with 
 the long one. Stop both ends well with spun-yarn to their next 
 parts, and cross the whole seizing or bend, with sennit ; pass the 
 sennit on the bight, and secure both together with a reef-knot. 
 
 203.— TO SHIP, AND UNSHIP A RUDDER. 
 
 Have the rudder brought under the stern, hung to a scow. 
 Bore a hole through the beam or carling over the rudder case — 
 drive an eyebolt up through it, and fit a washer and forelock. 
 Strap a large single block* with hook and thimble, and hook it 
 to the eye-bolt ; reeve a top-pendant through the single block, 
 down through the rudder-case, and hitch it to an eyebolt, which 
 is temporarily fitted into the rudder-head. Clap a deck-tackle on 
 to the other end of the pendant ; have heel-ropes leading forward 
 on each side, after being rove through their respective holes in 
 the rudder. Man the deck-tackle fall, and hoist away. When 
 the rudder is high ei>ough, guy it fair with the heel-ropes ; see 
 the pintles fair for entering the gudgeons, — lower away, and fit 
 in the wood-lock. Come up the pendant, unreeve the heel-ropes — 
 take the bolt fi-om the rudder-head, also the one from the beans 
 or carling aCbove — ship the tiller, and reeve the wheel-ropes. 
 
 To unship it. — Fit the bolts, single block, pendant and deck- 
 tackle as before, unreeve the wheel-ropes, unship the tiller, knock 
 out the wood-lock, and " sway away." When the pintles are 
 clear of the gudgeons, lower away, and secure it to the scow or 
 lighter — tow it on shore, and parbuckle, or hoist it out of the 
 water or scow. 
 
 » If a top-block can be procured, it will answer best, as the neck of the hook 
 being shorter, it will give more hoist. 
 
114 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 204.— GETTING THE GUNS ON BOARD. 
 
 £=i,. The gun-car- 
 
 i^;;;^--____^ riagcs and all the 
 
 "^^^^^^^^;;;~— ___ equipments be- 
 
 ^*C~^^^^^Sfer-^^ longing to the 
 
 ^^"^^'^gg'^^^'''^ guns are brought 
 
 5 ^-'-'^I^ alongside in 
 
 C.~-''^^^l^^^^^'''''''^'^\ lighters, and 
 
 ,^^'^ h hoisted in with 
 
 ffl the yard & stay. 
 
 /n Get them on their 
 
 . I respective decks, 
 
 |, / and reeve the 
 
 \ / purchase for get- 
 
 l\ / ting the guns on 
 
 I II \\ ' board. 
 
 M Securing the 
 
 \\ main-yard.— To 
 
 \\ the bolts in the 
 
 W lower cap, hook 
 
 |A the double blocks 
 
 Vr of two burtons. 
 
 s^L The single ones 
 
 VV^^^^i II are hooked to 
 
 -VW^^ gSi^^' r) selvagee - straps, 
 
 \^^^^^^3ip round the yard, 
 
 ^ ^^r=^^:>^^^^^^^^^ close to the lifts, 
 
 ===^ 4pP^^|:^^ and the falls sent 
 
 \\<\^^^^2^^^;;^ on deck, through 
 
 Vvv^^^^^^^ leading - blocks. 
 
 Bouse well taut the main-lifts and burtons together, and belay. 
 Then pass a good lashing round the main-yard in the slings, 
 and main-mast,.to keep the yard steady, and support the trusses, 
 they being previously boused well taut. 
 
 Take the top tackle-pendant, and reeve it through a top-block, 
 secured well to the yard with a good lashing, passed round the 
 hook, on the outside quarter ; take the pointed end over the cap, 
 pass it between the head of the mast and heel of the topmast, 
 take two half-hitches on its own part, or that from the yard, and 
 secure the end with a round-seizing of spun-yarn. Get a single 
 whip upon the main-yard, close to the lashing, bend one end to 
 the hook of the top-tackle fall-block; hoist the block up and 
 hook it to the thimble in the pendant. Through this and the 
 other top-tackle fall-block, reeve a fall; clench one end (the 
 standing part), round the main yard close to the block; the othe- 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. H^ 
 
 end, when rove full, through a leading block on deck, by the 
 bitts. 
 
 The garnet-purchase is a pendant, with a thimble in the 
 upper end, which is hooked to the main-pendant-tackle; the 
 other end is rove down through holes bored in the deck for the 
 purpose, and a stout hook and thimble spliced or turned into the 
 end. The garnet should be long enough to go on the lower- 
 deck, and the holes bored perpendicular to the centre of the port 
 through which the guns are to be got on board. The slings are 
 made of breaching-stuff, twice the length of the gun, the ends 
 spliced together, and the strands put in twice each way ; seize 
 an eye on the bight, large enough to go over the breach of the 
 gun ; put over the eye, and put the slings along the upper part 
 of the gun, lashing them with a piece of rope round all, just for- 
 ward of the trunnion ; put the other end over the muzzle, and in 
 toggle. Lash the purchase-block to the bight of the slings, and 
 also bend on a hawser to weigh the gun, in the event of parting 
 the purchase. " Sway away ;" drop the lighter from under the 
 gun, and when the breach is as high as the port, hook the gar- 
 net and also an a-th wartship-tackle to the breech-ring ; haul on the 
 tackle and bring the gun in through the port — run a carriage un- 
 der — lower away ; place the trunnions fair, and clamp them ; 
 come up the purchases, and transport the gun to its port. The 
 lower and main-deck guns are got in in the same way. The can- 
 nonades are taken over the rail ; a toggle is put in the muzzle, 
 one bight of the slings over the cascable, the other over the muz- 
 zle, and back-lashed to the toggle ; the stay or purchase-block is 
 lashed on midships of the slings, and the stay or pendant- tackle 
 to the same place ; consequently the gun will come in square. 
 Have the bed and slide ready, place it fair, and drive in the naval- 
 bolt. Ship the screws, beds, and coins ; reeve the breeching, 
 hook side and train-tackles ; see the guns square in the ports, 
 and secure them. 
 
 The main-deck guns might be taken in over the rail and 
 sU-uck down the main-hatch; but I prefer their being taken in 
 thrpugh the port, if plenty of men. 
 
 jVb^e. — The reason for having additional security on the main- 
 yard is, because in getting in the guns, the strain is altogether 
 on the yard ; while in getting up the anchors, the strain is di- 
 vided between two yards. The burtons are sometimes flapped 
 in with the main-lift, between the yard and cap ; but I prefer 
 their not being done so, as they will all render fairer, when the 
 strain comes on them. It is customary to top the main-yard up ; 
 but I saw a line-of-battle ship's guns got in without it, and as it 
 brings a greater strain on the slings and trusses, it should not be 
 done to so great an extent as is the practice. 
 
 Caution.— When the garnet-puichase is raising the breech to 
 
U6 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 the level required to place the gun in its carriage, care must be 
 taken that the main-purchase be not lowered by a turn, but that 
 the men on the fall " walk back " with a steady step. 
 
 When the gun is lodged in its carriage, it is removed to its 
 proper port, and another carriage is rolled to the receiving port, 
 ready for the reception of the next gun, and so on. 
 
 205 FITTING SHACKLB-BEEECHING8. 
 
 If it be required to fit the breechings on this recently improved 
 plan, it will be necessary to taper and point both ends of the 
 rope preparatoiy to spUcing or turning-in a shackle on each ex- 
 tremity. The shackle should be turned-in and secured to each 
 end of the breeching by two separate seizings, one close to the 
 shackle, and the other towards the pointed end of the rope. 
 They are frequently spliced into a thimble and then shackled, 
 which I think is much neater.* 
 
 By this simple and serviceable method, the breeching may be 
 shifted in a few seconds, it being no longer necessary to reeve it 
 through the ring at the breech. An opening is now made in the 
 cascable, which admits the introduction of the breeching on the 
 bight ; and the cascable fitted with a hinge or snatch, and some- 
 times a bolt going through the cascable, confines the breeching, 
 and prevents it jumping out on the recoil of the gun. 
 
 206— TEIATIC STATS. 
 
 A double block is strapped into a pendant, a hook and thimble 
 spliced into one end ; a single block is strapped with a hook and 
 thimble, a fall is rove, the standing-part bent into a becket in the 
 strap of the single block ; sometimes the double block is strapped, 
 and the pendant spliced in over the seizing. A good strap with 
 a thimble seized into it, is fitted to the strap of the lower block. 
 A piece of rope is spliced round the strap of the fore-stay block, 
 and the other end, when cut to the required length, spliced round 
 the strap of the main-stay block, and seized. This is called the 
 span, and is generally the length between the fore and main- 
 
 « This last improvement was introduced by Phanois Grice, Esq., chief Navi 
 Constructor, U. S. N. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ] 17 
 
 hatchways. The main-stay hooks to a strap with a thimble ia 
 it, from round the main-mast-head on the fore side ; the fore 
 from one abaft, fitted in the same manner. The main one gen- 
 erally comes down alongside the slings, the fore one between the 
 trestle-trees, abaft. The pendant and tackle are sometimes fitted 
 separate, to hook, and are easier stowed away. 
 
 Note. — In case of emergency, these pendants may be taken 
 round the mast-head, and hooked to their own parts. I have < 
 known some ships to use them this way altogether. 
 
 20T.— HOISTING IN SPARS. 
 
 Overhaul down the fore and main-yard tackles, fore and main- 
 stays, and lead their falls to the opposite side of the deck the 
 spars come in at. Hook burtons to the lower caps (double 
 blocks), single ones to selvagees round the lower yard-arm, close 
 inside the lifts. Send the falls on deck, and pull up the lifts and 
 burtons together, and trusses ; brace the fore-yard in, and hook 
 on to the spars. They should be always hoisted in as stowed.* 
 
 If the spars are too long to come in abreast, between the fore 
 and main-masts, such as topmasts, hook the main-stay to the 
 strap round the foremost end, and fore-stay to the after one ; then 
 hook the yards to separate straps made of pieces of stout rope 
 knotted together, or good selvagees, according to the weight of 
 the spar. Man the yards and walk them up; when clear of 
 hammock-nettings, haul on the main-stay, ease the fore and 
 main-yards, keeping the spar square, and get the foremost end 
 inside the rigging ; then ease the main-stay, and get the spar in 
 its place on the booms. Small spars can be got in with the 
 main-yard, a double whip on main-stay, or single guy if required. 
 
 208.— STOWING BOOMS. 
 
 The spars on the starboard side are stowed as follows, viz. 
 Main-topmast, head aft; main-topgallant, (mast-fishes) half-yard 
 main topmast studding-sail booms, and jib-boom. On the lar 
 
 * The spars intended to be stowed underneath, should be noisted in first ; such 
 as topmasts, half-yards, and jib-boom, for the lower tier, and round off with the 
 smaller spars on the top. 
 
118 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 board side — fore-topmast, head forward: fore-topgallant-mast, 
 mast-fish, half-yard, fore topmast studding-sail booms, flying-jib- 
 boom, &c. 
 
 There are several small spars which are equally divided, to 
 raaJie the booms as snug and neat as possible. A great deal ef 
 room can be gained by stowing them amidships in one pile, and 
 the boats on each side. As the spars are stowed, they should be 
 jiumbered on each end, also a list taken, and painted on the fore- 
 side of the boom-boards ; by so doing it will save much time and 
 trouble to find any spar that may be required ; as I have seen all 
 the booms unlashed before a spar was found. 
 
 The booms are lashed to span-shackles in the deck for the 
 purpose. A few small spars should be kept out, to drive under 
 the lashing, to set all taut. When stowed they are covered with 
 tarpaulins, or matting made for the purpose. "When the spars 
 are all in, square the yards. 
 
 Note. — It is becoming the general practice, to stow both top- 
 masts with their heads forward. Many ships stow all their spars 
 amidships in one pile, with the exception of the fore and main- 
 topmasts, which are stowed outside of the boats ; spare main-top- 
 sail yard on the larboard-quarter, the fore on the starboard- 
 quarter, in the chains, and spare jib-boom across the stem, secured 
 underneath the stern-davits.* 
 
 • Some ships stow topmasts and all amidships ; but this is a bad plan, as il 
 would be necessary to take out all, to get a topmast if required, it being under- 
 neath. 
 
PART III. 
 
 REEVING RUNNING RIGGING. 
 
 209.— FORE BOWLINES. 
 
 The fore bowlines have an eye in one end, to go over the tog- 
 gle, and are rove through a single block, seized into a single strap, 
 and secured to the fore-stay collar with a seizing passed through 
 an eye left in the strap, and the other end led in on the forecastle. 
 
 The fore and main clue-garnets are hitched to the yards, then 
 rove thi'ough a block lashed in the clews of the sail, up through 
 a block on the quarte]- of the yard, down to the fife-rail. 
 
 210.— FOEE-TOPSAIL CLEWLINES. 
 
 Topsail clewlines are fitted the same as clew-garnets, and 
 sometimes with a whip ; they come on deck through lubber's 
 hole. 
 
 When fitted with a whip, a piece of rope nearly equal to the 
 double clewline, is rove through the quarter-block, and an eye 
 spliced in one end, which is secured with a seizing round the 
 clew, when the sail is bent. In the other end, splice a single 
 block, and reeve a fall through it ; one end splice into a bolt in 
 the deck, and the other reeve through a leading-block, well apart 
 from the standing-part. 
 
 Note. — The disadvantage of double clewlines, is, the points 
 getting in the clew-blocks when clewing up, or sheeting home. 
 
120 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 211 TOPSAIL BUNTLINES 
 
 Are toggled to the foot of the sails, and rove through single 
 blocks at the mast-head, underneath the rigging, and through 
 lubber's hole on deck. Cheeks or sheaves set in the foremost end 
 of the trestle-trees are best, as they keep the buntlines clear of 
 the belly of the sails. Blocks in bolts will do equally as well, 
 but do not look so neat. I would recommend fitting a shoe- 
 block underneath the eyes of the rigging, on each side, in prefer- 
 ence. 
 
 Buntline-spans are short pieces of rope, with a thimble in one 
 end, and the other end whipped ; the buntlines are rove thi'ough 
 these thimbles, before being bent to the sail, or rove at the mast- 
 head. At sea these spans are knotted together, abaft the tye- 
 blocks on the yard, and stopped to them. When in harbor, they 
 are let go, to allow the sails being triced weU-up to furl, or hauled 
 out to dry, by the bowlines, when toggled to the foot of the sail. 
 
 312.— FORETOP BOWLINES 
 
 Have an eye spliced in one end to go over the toggle on the 
 bridle ; the other is rove through a block at the bowsprit-cap, 
 strapped into a bolt, or a sheave cut in the after end of the bees 
 and led in on the forecastle. 
 
 213.— MAIN BUNTLINES. 
 
 There are two on each quarter, and reeve on the bights. 
 Reeve first through the large sheave in a shoe-block, then reeve 
 both ends, from forward, through the double block under the fore 
 part of the main-top, and bend or clinch both ends to the holes 
 in the foot of the sail for the purpose. Sometimes toggles are 
 fitted into the holes, with double straps, and an eye spliced into 
 each end of the buntlines. If no shoe-block is to be got, seize 
 two single ones into one strap. Through the other sheave of 
 shoe-block, reeve a fall ; clinch one end to the main-stay by the 
 foremast, or splice an eye and seize it round it. The other end 
 reeve through a leading block, seized into a single strap, leaving 
 an eye to seize it to the stay, or through a sheave or leading 
 block in the fore-bitts. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 214.— FORE BUNTLINES 
 
 121 
 
 Generally toggle to the foot of the sail, and are sometimes 
 clinched ; then rove through a double block under the fore part 
 of the fore-top, and through fair leading sheaves in the racks to 
 the bulwarks. The buntline should be long enough to allow 
 the sail to belly. The outside leg of the buntline is sometimes 
 rove through a thimble strapped into the foot of the sail, and 
 clenched into a cringle put into the bolt-rope, a few feet above 
 the clew. 
 
 215.— MAIN BOWLINE 
 
 Is a runner and tackle, and is rove and unrove as required. 
 It is rove thi-ough the thimble seized on the bowline bridle ; the 
 end of the runner is secured round the fore-bitts, or to a cleat. 
 The lower block of the gun-tackle purchase is fitted with a hook, 
 and hooked to a strap close to the end of the runner, for the pur- 
 pose. I have seen the main-bowline boused up to the weather- 
 forecastle bulwarks, which I think preferable, not seeing any 
 very great advantage from its being hauled amidships ; partic- 
 ularly when it is considered that the main-topsail yard, on a 
 wind, is braced abaft the main-yard. 
 
 216.— TOPGALLANT SHEETS 
 
 Aie rove through the sheave in the topsail-yard, then through 
 the after sheave in the double block in the quarter of the topsail- 
 yard, and through a leading sheave or block on deck. The up- 
 per end is bent to the clew of the topgallant-sail ; sometimes a 
 long-eye is spliced, which goes over a toggle in the clew of the 
 sail. They are also fitted with sister-hooks, which is the latest 
 and most improved plan. 
 
122 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 2 IT. -TOPGALLANT CLEWLINES 
 
 Are bent through the clew of the sail, and secured with a sheet- 
 bend ; it is then rove through the foremost sheave on the quarter- 
 block on the yard, and sent down through lubber's hole on deck. 
 
 218.— FOEE TOPGALLANT BOWLINES 
 
 , Are toggled to the bridle of the sail. The fore one is rove 
 through a single block at the jib-boom end, one on each side, and 
 led in on the forecastle through fair leaders. These blocks are 
 strapped like span-blocks, and lashed together on the upper side 
 with two lashing-eyes ; they are sometimes strapped singly, and 
 go over the boom-end, or seized to the guys. Double blocks are 
 also sometimes put in these straps, and the two inner sheaves 
 used as jib-brail-leaders. 
 
 219.— MAIN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES 
 
 Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, then rove through sheaves 
 cut in the after part of the fore-topmast-crosstrees, and through 
 lubber's hole, through fair leading sheaves on deck. Single tail- 
 blocks arc sometimes used, clove-hitched round the after shroud 
 in the fore-topmast rigging, close up to the futtock-stave, or seized. 
 
 220.— MIZEN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES 
 
 Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, and rove through single 
 blocks on each side of the main-mast head, and through fair 
 leadmg blocks on deck. A double block is often used instead of 
 two smgle ones on each side, one sheave for the brace, the other 
 lor the bowhne. They should be led from lubber's hole abaP 
 all, between the cat-harpen legs, or futtock-shrouds. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 123 
 
 221.— TOPGALLANT BUNTLINES 
 
 Are seldom used in light weather, although very necessary in 
 taking in sail, when blowing fresh, as they save much time, and 
 in some instances a man's life. On a wind it spills the sail, and 
 prevents its getting over the lee yard-arm ; and going free ena- 
 bles the men to furl it much easier. A strong proof of their 
 utility may be inferred from the fact that merchant vessels, who 
 have as little rope rove as possible, and are generally weak-hand- 
 ed, have their sails fitted with buntlines. 
 
 They are fitted as follows : — A piece of rope with a thimble on 
 it, is spliced into two eyelet-holes, worked in the foot of the sail, 
 about a third from each clew.* Splice the end of the buntline 
 round the thimble ; reeve the other end through a single block, 
 seized into a single strap, and secured round the topgallant mast- 
 head by a lashing passed over all ; send the end of the buntline 
 through lubber's hole, on deck before all to the fife-rail. 
 
 222.— ROYAL BOWLINES. 
 
 The fore royal-bowline is rove through a block at the flying- 
 jib-boom end, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader, 
 the same as the topgallant-bowHne, and the main-royal bowlines 
 through the chock at fore-topmast head. 
 
 223.— REEF-TACKLES 
 
 Are sometimes double, and also fitted with a whip, as clew- 
 lines, or pendant and burton. When double, a single block is 
 seized into a single strap, having a thimble in it, and the seizmg 
 passed between the block and thimble. This block goes on the 
 bridle, or cringle, in the leech of the topsails. One end of the 
 reef-tackle is clinched round the neck of the boom-iron, the other 
 rove through the block, up through the sheave in the yard-arm, 
 and through the upper sheave in the sister-block, through lub- 
 ber's hole, and through a leading block or sheave on deck. 
 
 * This piece of rope is called a span. 
 
124 THE KEDQE-ANCHOR; 
 
 When single, an eye is spliced in the end of the pendant, to gc 
 over a toggle fitted to a bridle, as above ; the other end rove 
 through the yard and sister-block, a single block spliced into the 
 end, and a whip rove, as on the clewline. 
 
 Note. — The generality of naval ships use then top-burtons with 
 short hide-pendants ; some object to this, as the top-burtons may 
 be wanted, when they are in use as reef-tackles. 
 
 234.— LEECH-LINES. 
 
 The forward leech-lines are rove through the upper sheave-hole 
 of a shoe-block ; both parts are then rove through a double block, 
 hooked with a pendant to the lower cap, then through two single 
 blocks seized to the jackstays on the yards, and are clinched to 
 the leeches of the courses, forward of the sail. 
 
 The lower legs are rove through the other sheave-hole in the 
 shoe-block, and the standing-part made fast to the fife-rail ; the 
 other end being used to haul up the sails. 
 
 The after leech-lines are rove through blocks on the under- 
 neath part of the yard, and clinched to the courses abaft the sail, 
 to the same places as the forward ones. 
 
 Note. — Shoe-blocks are now pretty much out of fashion — when 
 they are not used, both parts of the leech-lines are led on deck 
 and the whip-purchase dispensed with. 
 
 225.— SLAB-LINES 
 
 Are bent to the middle of a span at the foot of the sail, led up 
 abaft, and rove through a block lashed to the grommet or span, 
 around the straps of the quarter-blocks of the lower yards, and 
 down on deck. These are very necessary in Ught weather, and 
 in rough weather, may be converted into spilling-lines. 
 
 226.— EOYAL CLEW-LINES 
 
 Are bent to the clews of the sail, rpve through the quarter- 
 blocks on the yard, and led either in the tops, or ou deck. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 125 
 
 2 2 T.— FITTING TACKS AND SHEETS, BUMKIN- 
 
 GEAB, &o. 
 
 « 
 
 A single block is seized into a single strap, leaving an eye to 
 fit the bumkin ; this block is made with a shoi|^er, which lays 
 on the bumkin when the block is on. W 
 
 Bumkin-braces are now generally chain ; one is hooked to the 
 bow, and two to the cutwater ; and set up with a lanyard rove 
 through span-shackles in their ends, and others on the bumkin, 
 or with a turnbuckle. 
 
 Reeving the tack. — Clinch the large end round the oumkin, 
 outside the block, having been well wormed, parceled, and served, 
 far enough towards the small end to take the block on the bum- 
 kin, when the sail is reefed. Reeve the small end through the 
 block in the sail, then through that on the bumkin, and in on the 
 forecastle through a hole in the bulwarks, for the purpose. 
 
 Fore sheet. — The large end is served the same as the tack, 
 and is hooked into a bolt in the side for the purpose ; the small 
 end is rove through the block in the sail, and through a sheave 
 in the side, or gangway bulwarks. Large ships generally work 
 the fore-sheet in the waist (main-deck), but it is often worked on 
 the gangway, (spar-deck). 
 
 228.— YARD TACKLE TRICING-LINES. 
 
 If no cheek on the yard, take the pendants taut along from 
 the yard-arm, and then secure a single tail-block. On the fore- 
 most shroud, well up, seize another single block, fitted with a 
 single strap, leaving room when seized-in, for the seizing with 
 which it is secured to the shroud. Round the fiddle-block in the 
 pendant, between both sheaves, secure the tricing-line with a 
 running-eye ; then reeve the other end through the cheek, or tail- 
 bjock, and then through the single block on the shroud, and on 
 deck. 
 
 229.— TO REEVE AND TOGGLE ROYAL-HALLIARDS. 
 
 Take a round-turn with the yard-rope, well up round the strap 
 of the block, with the long-eye; reeve the bight through the eye 
 and put the toggle in it; then bring the end up from the block 
 
126 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 seized to the eye of the shroud, and reeve it through the one on 
 the yard-rope, send the end on deck, and reeve it through a lead- 
 ing block. 
 
 When half-hitched, the lower block is fitted as described, and 
 secured ; the upper one is strapped with a thimble in the strap — - 
 reeve the yard-rope through the thimble, and then through the 
 lower block, up'^hrough the upper one, and on deck through a 
 leader. 
 
 230.— FOEE STOKM-STAYSAIL GEAR. 
 
 To fit the stay. — Take a piece of good rope of proportionable 
 size to the sail ; fit one end with two legs as a stay, and lash 
 them abaft the foremast-head, the legs being placed underneath 
 those of the standing-stay. Take a piece of rope the round of 
 the bowsprit, inside the fore-stay collar ; splice an eye in each 
 end, and seize a thimble in the bight — splice a lashing in one 
 eye, and secure the strap round the bowsprit, by passing it 
 through both eyes, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. 
 Reeve the end of this stay through the hanks for the sail, then 
 reeve it through the thimble in the strap, and set it well up with 
 a luff-purchase ; the double block hooked to a strap well up the 
 stay, the single one to another strap on the end ; then pass a 
 round-seizing round both parts, close to the thimble — come up 
 the luff, and pass another seizing between it and the end, but 
 not at too great a distance, as it will prevent the sail from coming 
 close down. 
 
 Halliards. — Have a good strap to go round the foremast-head, 
 close to the stay. It can be fitted with two lashing-eyes, and 
 when so fitted can be easier taken off, and put on. When the 
 sail is to be set, hook the double block of a luff-tackle to this 
 strap, and the single one to the head of the sail ; the hauling- 
 part being sent down abaft the fore-yard, and through a leading 
 block on deck. 
 
 Downhaul.—A. single block is secured to the parts of the strap 
 round the bowsprit— the downhaul is spliced to the head of the 
 sail, then rove through the hanks, thi'ough the single block, and 
 led m on the forecastle. When a stay is fitted, the downhaul 
 block is seized to the strap round the bowsprit. 
 
 The downhaul is often double; if so, a single block is secured 
 to the head of the sail, the standing-part of the downhaul secur- 
 ed to the strap on the bowsprit, and the hauling-part led in as 
 before. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 127 
 
 Sheets. — Deck-tackles are generally used, one on each side ; 
 they are hooked to the clew of the sail, and the hooks well 
 moused. When the sheet is aft, the weather one is overhauled. 
 The after blocks are hooked to eye cm ring-bolts, as convenient, 
 and should not be too high or too low ; if too much up and down, 
 they slack the foot of the sail ; if too high, the after leech. The 
 falls are rove through leading blocks, and the all hooks should 
 be well moused. 
 
 Note. — These stays when set up, may be secured cutter-stay- 
 fashion, instead of seizing the end up, which will allow the sail 
 to haul close down on the bowsprit. 
 
 231.— MAIN STAYSAIL GEAK. 
 
 The stay is fitted the same as the fore, and sets up round the 
 cross-piece in the fore bitts, after being rove through the hanks. 
 The halliards are fitted the same as the fore. 
 
 The downhaul is rove through a block strapped round the bitts 
 for the purpose. If rove double they are fitted in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Instead of iron hanks, I have seen grommets used, made of 
 pieces of rope, with a wall-knot worked on one end, and an eye 
 spliced in the other ; these are long enough to go round the stay 
 and becket. They are secured to eyelet-holes in the sail with a 
 seizing, and are always kept to it. I have seen the sails set on 
 the spring-stays, when fitted in this way, but prefer separate 
 stays. 
 
 There are also other ways of setting storm-staysails, but those 
 I have mentioned are in most general use. When a main-trysail 
 can be got, mizen-staysails should never be draw:n, as a ship will 
 keep much better to windward with trysails and fore-staysail, 
 than under the staysails alone. 
 
 233.— MIZBN-STATSAIL GEAR. 
 
 The halliards are hitched to the collar of the staysail-stay, rove 
 through a block in the head of the sail, then through a leader, 
 and led down on deck. 
 
 The downhaul is clinched to the head of the sail, and rove 
 
128 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 through the hanks down the mizen-stay. The mizen staysail- 
 sheet is a runner, leading through a snatch-block and thimble. 
 A gun-tackle purchase is most commonly used, which answers 
 all purposes. 
 
 233.— TOPMAST STAYSAILS, &c., &c. 
 
 Fore. — The standing part of the halliards is seized or hitched 
 to the fore topmast spring-stay, then rove through a block in the 
 head of the sail, up through a leading block under the eyes of 
 the topmast rigging, then down on the larboard side of the deck 
 abaft the foremast. The downhaul is hitched to the head of the 
 sail, rove through the hanks, then through a block seized to the 
 tack of the sail, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader. 
 The tack is a simple lashing. 
 
 The fore topmast staysail and jib-sheets are pendants lashed 
 to the clew of the sail, with a block in the end, through which 
 the sheets are rove; the standing part is hooked to an eyebolt in 
 the bows, and the running part is led in on the forecastle. 
 
 Main. — The standing part of the halliards is hitched to the 
 collar of the main-topmast spring-stay, reeving through a block 
 at the head of the sail, then through a block at the main-top- 
 mast head, and led down on deck. The downhaul is fitted the 
 same as the fore, and led down by the fore-mast. The tack is 
 rove through a block in the weather fore-rigging, or top. 
 
 The main topmast staysail-brails are seized to the leech of the 
 sail, led up through the hanks to a block seized to the upper 
 hank, and can also be used as a downhaul. 
 
 The middle, tower, and upper topgallant-staysails and jack- 
 stays, may be fitted in one. In this case a double block is turn- 
 ed in, and lashed to the after part of the fore-topmast crosstrees, 
 or mast-head ; the lower part is set up in the fore-top, and' the 
 upper part at the fore-topgallant mast-head. 
 
 The middle staysail-stays are rove through a single block, 
 strapped to the topmast, down on the cap. 
 
 The lower and upper topgallant staysail-stays, are rove 
 through blocks fitted to traverse the jackstay, with lock-thimbles, 
 the former being rove through the other sheave of the double 
 block at the topmast cross-trees ; the latter through a block at 
 the fore-topgallant mast-head, and both led on deck. 
 
 The downhaul blocks are single, and are seized to the straps 
 of the tricing-line blocks. The halKards are whips hitched to the 
 collars of the stays, rove through blocks in the head of the sail, 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT igp 
 
 through leading blocks at the mast-head, and down on deck. 
 The tacks are single and led in the fore-top; the sheets are also 
 single, leading in the gangways. 
 
 Note. — The principle object to be attended to, in reeving run- 
 ning-rigging, is to avoid the ropes being too much crowded in 
 one place, crossing or chafing each other, or any part of the stand- 
 ing rigging, as it not only destroys it, but also decreases the de- 
 sired purchase to be obtained by their running clear of each 
 other. 
 
 234.— SETTING UP EIGaiNG FOR A PULL-DUE. 
 
 Have all the luffs on deck ; fore, main, and mizen pen- 
 dant-tackles hooked, and tackle-falls laid along for pulling i 
 up; nevvr lanyards ready for reeving, seizings, marling- I 
 spikes, levers, mallets, grease, small spars for ratling-down, 
 triangles rigged ready for hoisting up the mast, to secure 
 the futtock-shrouds and cat-harpen legs, (if used ;) burton- 
 falls sent on deck and rove — all the temporary ratlines cast- 
 off — spars got up underneath the bowsprit with the gra- 
 tings for the men to work on — topgallant-masts and flying 
 jib-boom housed ; and also men stationed at the dead-eyes 
 to turn in if required. Let everything go abaft the masts, 
 commence turning in the dead-eyes, and reeve the lan- 
 yards — set up the bowsprit-rigging and secure it. Then 
 man the pendant-tackles, set taut the after-swifters — (if 
 wedges in) get the mast well forward in its place, and se- 
 cure the stays. Cast off the cat-harpen legs (if fitted), and 
 futtock-shrouds.* Set up the rigging for a full-due, observing 
 the same precautions as when it was first set up. 
 
 The lanyard is now rove full, and when racked, take the end 
 and form a clove-hitch above the dead-eye, then rack the surplus- 
 end to the inside parts of the lanyard, until the end is expended. 
 The hitch is formed between the dead-eye and shroud, aiound 
 both parts, in the space left by stretching — some use a half-hitch 
 taken over all round the shroud, hove well back, the lanyard ex- 
 pended, and the end seized. The ends of the shrouds are then 
 cut square and capped, and the mats laced on. 
 
 Rigging-mats are made with small rope, three-quarter-inch, 
 
 • Vessels having iheir futtock-rigging set up to bands round the mast, use ne 
 cat-harpen legs, and have therefore no occasion of coming up either of the above 
 
j^.jQ THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 
 
 and are called sword-raats. They are generally the breadth of 
 the dead-eye, and long enough to take in both— the lanyards are 
 laced inside. They are hardly ever used on topmast nggJng; 
 they look heavy, and are of no use, except on the torward 
 shrouds and backstays. 
 
 335.— STAYING- MASTS. 
 
 The practice of " staying masts with the wedges in," has been 
 already denounced as contrary to every received system of sea- 
 manship. The stays may be set taut with the wedges m, but 
 the masts should be always free in the partners, whenever there 
 is occasion to alter the position of their standing ; because it is 
 impossible but that the precise situation of the mast must be al- 
 tered a Uttle, rendering necessary corresponding alterations in 
 the wedges.' When these are made and the wedges firmly fixed, 
 there can be no inequalities of play or pressure — the whole be- 
 comes a sohd mass, yielding naturally and unifonnly to the 
 motion of the ship. Whereas, if in setting up the rigging the 
 wedges be kept fast, the mast pressing unequally against them, 
 having too much play in one part, and too htlle in another, it 
 must inevitably get crippled. 
 
 In preparing to set up the rigging, though the stays may not 
 appear to require a pull, it is well to have the luffs and tackle 
 ready ; for after lifting the wedges, there is great probability of 
 its being found necessary. 
 
 236.— BLACKING RIGGING. 
 
 The most convenient method of blacking rigging, is with the 
 topgallant masts on deck, but royal and topgallant rigging placed 
 at the mast-heads ; for then men who lide down and black the 
 topmast-stays, can then at the same time easily black the topgal- 
 lant and royal-stays ; or, what is handier still — let the men at 
 the mast-head haul over and black these small stays, and pay 
 thein down forward when done. The men also who black down 
 the topmast-backstays, can carry on at the same time with the 
 topgallant and royal-backstays. By this method the masts are 
 kept clean 
 
 If, on the other hand, topgallant-masts be kept up when black- 
 ing, the small stays and backstays must be let go, in order that 
 
09 
 O 
 
 6 
 
OR YOUxVG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 131 
 
 they may be got at by the men on the topmast-stays and back- 
 stays ; consequently the masts must be adrift, are hkely to be 
 daubed over with blacliing, and if it should come on to blow fresh, 
 so as to render it necessary to get the topgallant-masts on deck, 
 much injury must result to the blacking. 
 
 The topsail and lower lifts should be blackened first, the men 
 liaving to stand on the yards to do them. 
 
 Previous to commencing, the decks should be well sanded, and 
 the paint-work and head covered with old canvass. The quartpr- 
 tackle should be clapped on one side of the main-yard, and also 
 a burton hooked, ready for clearing boats. 
 
 Ttie finer and warmer the day, the better — the blacking will 
 lay on so much the smoother and thinner; but commencement 
 should be delayed until the dew is well dried ofT. A dry calm 
 day is the best ; for the blacking will not take efiect, unless the 
 surface it is laid upon be dry. 
 
 237 STATIONING THE CKEW. 
 
 In dividing the crew into watches, care should be taken that 
 the physical force is as equally distributed as possible, and that 
 there be as many seamen, ordinary seamen, boys, and marines, 
 in one watch as in another. 
 
 Petty ofiicers should be chosen from among the seamen, and 
 'hose selected who have been long in the service, and have 
 proved faithful. Forecastle men should be middle-aged seamen, 
 with a few ordinary seamen and landsmen. Young active sea- 
 men should be selected for topmen, also a few ordinary seamen, 
 landsmen and boys. After-guard, a few elderly seamen, with 
 ordinary seamen and landsmen. Waigters are chiefly landsmen, 
 with a few ordinary seamen; in single-decked vessels, where 
 there are no waisters, more men should be stationed on the fore- 
 castle and in the after-guard, in proportion to the number of the 
 crew of the different classes of vessels. Idlers are excused froffl 
 keeping watch — they are officers' servants, cooks, &c., <fcc. 
 
 Divide each watch into first and second parts, and appoint a 
 captain to each part ; number the men belonging to the fore- 
 castle, having all the larboard watch even, as two, four, six, and 
 the starboard odd ; have the numbers painted on canvass, and 
 let each man sew it on his bag and hammock; having also for 
 greater distinction, the larboard painted red, and the starboard 
 black. The men should be below alternately, so that when one 
 watch is below, there should be an equal number of the other 
 watch on deck. 
 
132 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR : 
 
 238.— STATIONINGl THE CKEW AT QUAKTEES. 
 
 Captains of the guns should be clipsen from among, the sea- 
 men who have been long accustomed to them, steady, with 
 good sight, and quick motion. The largest and stoutest men 
 should be chosen to man the long guns, the others the cannon- 
 ades. The boarders should be stout men — the firemen and sail- 
 trimmers, active young men. Be particular to station them as 
 near where they are accustomed to do their duty as possible, in 
 order to prevent confusion. Let all the first part of the gun's 
 crew be in one watch, and the second part in the other, so that 
 in the event of going to quarters in the night, the watch on deck 
 can clear away the guns, while the watch below will clear away 
 the hammocks. 
 
 To a twelve-pounder cannonade are stationed four men. and 
 one boy. All the men stationed at the long guns of a double- 
 decked ship, should be armed with cutlasses, and called "board- 
 ers " — the first of the gun's crew to be called second boarders, and 
 vicp. versa. They are only to be called on when required to 
 " board," or in a case of great emergency to " repel boarders," and 
 then every man will repair to the upper-deck, except the fireriien, 
 quarter-gunners, and powder boys, who will'remain below to pro- 
 tect the ports, or to assist in extinguishing a fire. 
 
 All the men stationed at the cannonades should be boarders 
 and sail-trimmers. As boarders, the first part should be armed 
 with pikes; the second part with small-arms, who are to repel the 
 boarders, but not to quit the ship. 
 
 In a single-decked ship, all the men stationed are boarders ; 
 the first part to be armed with cutlasses, and the second, with 
 pikes. 
 
 The battery being manned, distribute the rest of the crew as 
 follows: — have a quarter-master at the signals, when in a squad- 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 133 
 
 ron — topmen and marines in the tops, to repair damages, and 
 act as small-arm-men — a quarter-mastei- and two men at the re- 
 lieving tackles — men stationed at the passages, to pass full and 
 empty boxes; also others at the shot-lockers. Mastmen to see 
 the rigging clear — cook, and armorer at the galley — the carpen- 
 ter and his mates at the pumps and wings — the master-at-arms, 
 and ship's corporal in the light-room — the gunner, his mates, 
 quarter-gunners, and cooper, in the magazine, and the surgeon 
 and assistants in the cock-pit. ~ 
 
 239.— STATIONING THE CKBW FOR MOORING AND 
 UNMOORING. 
 
 In stationing the men, place the same number of men, of each 
 watch, to perform a piece of duty. When in a squadron, have 
 quarter-masters at the signals, and also in the chains — men at 
 the wheel — quarter-gunners to overhaul the fish, and grapple the 
 buoys — men to overhaul and hook the cat, and attend the back- 
 ropes ; also others at the mast, to see the rigging clear. Boat- 
 swain's mates in the gangvi'ays ; carpenter's mates to ship and 
 unship the capstan bars, and attend the stanchions, with the 
 music at the capstan — some fore-topmen to put on nippers, or sel- 
 yagees, some main-topmen to take them off, and boys to carry 
 them forward. Hands to rouse up and veer away the cable, to 
 attend the stoppers, and light forwajd the messenger. The yeo- 
 man in the store-room — master-at-arms, and ship's corporal on 
 the berth-deck, and cook at the galley — tierces in each tier, or 
 chain-locker, and the remainder of the men at the capstan. 
 
 340.— LOOSING AND FURLING. 
 
 Take the same number of men from each watch, and station 
 them at the same rope, &c. The topmen are to man their re- 
 spective yards — hands are to attend the boom-jiggers and tricing- 
 lines — forecastle men to attend head-sails, trysail and foresail — 
 main-yard men to look out for the main-sail— after-guard, for the 
 spanker and main-trysail — for the main-topmast staysail, the 
 fore-top-men — for the main- staysail, the gunner's crew — hand 
 stationed to sheet home, and hoist the topsails, and when corning 
 to an anchor, the same men to man the clew-lines, b'unt-lines, 
 and weather-braces ; and when loosirig sails to dry, to man bow- 
 
134 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 lines, or buntlines. In furling, the captains are to be in the bunt, 
 in reefing, at the earings. 
 
 241.— STATIONING THE GREW FOR TACKING AND 
 VEERING. 
 
 Station the men from the "watch bill" — have hands at the 
 jib-boom end, to overhaul the jib-brails, and light over flying-jib 
 sheets. On the bowsprit end to light over jib-pendants — hands 
 on the bumkins, and in the chains, to overhaul tacks and sheets, 
 and backstay-falls. On deck, at the wheel, spritsail-bvaces, jib- 
 sheets, jib-brails, braces, bow-lines, clew-garnets, tacks and sheets, 
 backstay-falls, lifts, trusses, spanker-sheets, guys, vangs, and top- 
 ping-lifts. Aloft, to overhaul lifts and trusses — attend outriggers, 
 and bear the backstays abaft and abreast — the mast-men to see 
 the rigging clear, &c., <fcc. 
 
 For reefing. — The men are stationed as in furling, with the 
 exception of the captains, who are stationed at the earincs. 
 When the yards are down, the men from the clew-lines and 
 bunt-lines will haul out the reef-tackles. 
 
 242 — GETTING READY TO BEND SAILS. 
 
 It is customary to bend the light sails first, such as jibs, span- 
 kers, and trysails. Overhaul the jib and flying-jib stay, and hal- 
 liards, in on the forecastle. Have the lashing spliced into the 
 sheets ready for passing, and seizings tp the hanks. 
 
 Overhaul down into the top the reef-tackles, and stop the 
 blocks to the foremost shrouds, (or the end if single.) Overhaul 
 the topsail-sheets from the yard-arm, and half-hitch them round 
 a dead-eye, or foremost futtock-plate. Bunt-lines into the top, 
 and stop them to the foremost shroud, above the topsail-yard, or 
 to the tye-blocks— clew-lines into the top, and stop them to the 
 eye of a shroud, and get the harbor-gaskets on the yards. A 
 rope-yarn stop will be quite sufficient for all these purposes. 
 Moth burtons should be overhauled on deck before all. 
 
 Overhaul down the leech-lines, slab-lines, bunt-lines and clew- 
 garnets, and stop them so as to prevent their flying about. 
 
 Take two selvagee-straps, put them round the neck of the 
 boom-nous, and to them hook the double-block of a long jigger; 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ^35 
 
 the single one overhaul down, and hook to a ring or eye-bolt in 
 the bulwarks, and the fall led through a leading block a-mid- 
 snips. 
 
 Lower down the gaffs— overhaul the brails, and have seizings 
 of two-yarn bpun-yarn ready, to secure them to the sails. If 
 hoops, seizings should also be put on them, with both ends rove 
 tlirough the bight. 
 
 Topgallant yards should be got out of the rigging, and laid on 
 deck out of the way, ready for bending the sails. Top-burtons 
 overhauled down forward of all, for the topsails. 
 
 Note.— When the preparations above stated are made, it is in- 
 tended to bend all the sails together. 
 
 243 — BENDING SAILS. 
 
 Call all hands to bend sails — get the courses, jib, topsails, and 
 spanker, on deck. Open them out, and see that they are whole 
 and complete; with the bowline-bridles, head and reef-earings, 
 rope-bands, reef-points, sheet, clew-line, and reef-tackle blocks 
 all in their proper places. Bight the topsails down in their re- 
 spective places forward of the masts, with the clews out. Hook 
 the lower block of the burton to the slings passed round the 
 centre of the sail, and mouse the hook — reeve the fall through a 
 snatch-block or leader, and keep the sail clear of the top as it 
 goes up. 
 
 Overhaul the courses athwart the deck, shackle on the sheet, 
 and also the tack, and clew-garnet blocks — reeve and bend the 
 gear — stop the head of the sail to the bunt-lines, use the clew- 
 jiggers for yard-ropes, hooking to the first reef-cringle, and stop 
 the head earings to the block. 
 
 The end of the jib-stay having been brought in on the fore- 
 castle, reeve in the hanks, and stop the luff of the jib — hook on 
 the halliards — reeve the downhauls — fit the brail-block and re^ve 
 the brails — hook on the sheet-blocks, or pendants, and reeve the 
 sheets. 
 
 Lower the spanker-gaff— pass the throat and peak-earings, and 
 lace the head to the gaff— seize on the brails, and reeve them 
 and the outhauler. All being ready, 
 
 To man the gear. — First, man the top-burtons and sway the 
 topsails clear of the deck— man the jib-halliards and downhaul— 
 yard-ropes, clew-garnets, clew-lines, bunt-lines, reef-tackles, and 
 gaff-halliards : at the word run out the jib, reeve and set up the 
 stay, and seize the tack. Sway the topsails and courses iip to 
 the yards, where some hands are ready to receive them. Bend 
 
136 
 
 THE KEDGE AJS'CHOR; 
 
 the gear and haul out ; then take a turn with the earmgs— ride 
 down the heads and pass the earings exactly; make fast the rope- 
 bands, fit the leech-line block of the courses— seize on and reeve 
 the leech line. In the mean-time some hands are employed in 
 seizing on the hoops of the trysails and spanker, as they go 
 aloft. After the sails are all bent, it would be well to let them 
 fall, to see that all the geai- is bent clear, if so, clew up and furl 
 the courses and topsails, and stow the jib, spanker and trysails. 
 
 The topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails are bent on 
 deck. 
 
 Send the staysails into the tops, fit the jackstays and tricing- 
 line blocks, seize the head of the luff; reeve the halliards, down- 
 hauls, and brails, bend the tacks and sheets; stow the staysails 
 and haul all taut. ' 
 
 Note.— The staysails are not all allowed by the new Book of 
 Allowances. 
 
 344 BENDING SMALL SAILS. 
 
 By small sails are meant topgallant-sails, royals, flying-jib, 
 studding-sails and staysails. 
 
 It is only in ships in good order where the men go through this 
 manoeuvre with smartness and method, after being exercised, 
 and having become familiar with the ship and their stations. 
 
 First, all the yards, topgallant, royal, and studding-sail, should 
 be got out of the rigging, and down on deck at the same time. 
 Next, a proportion of hands should be sent to each sail, and all 
 bent together, including flying-jib and staysails. 
 
 When the topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails, are all 
 bent, they should be swayed into the rigging all together, and 
 not one after another. 
 
 If the topgallant-yards happen to be across, the best plan, if 
 circumstances will permit, is to bend all the other small sails 
 first, except the flying-jib, and then to wait until the yards are 
 sent down at sunset, to bend topgallant-sails and flying-jib. 
 
 Topgallant sails ought not to be bent while the yards are 
 across, because the earings must then be hauled out, and passed 
 over the lifts and braces, which precludes the possibility of un- 
 rigging the yard afterwards, without unbending the sail. Some- 
 times one of the two sets of topgallant-yards are appropriated in 
 harbor to exercise, (sending up and down) while the other is kept 
 below, with the sail bent, ready for crossing. 
 
OK YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 137 
 
 In bending topgallant-sails, the earings are passed the same ag 
 the topsail, and the sail seized to the jackstay, the yard-rope bent 
 the sails furled, and the yard got "into the lower rigging. In 
 furUng, bring the leeches taut along the yard, and keep the clews ■ 
 m the bunt, then roll the sail up from the yard-arm, and pass the 
 gaskets. Put the grommet over the yard-arm, man the yard- 
 rope and sway the yard up and down ; put the lower yard-arm 
 into the snotter, over the foremost dead-eye; secure the upper 
 yard-aim with a lanyard spliced round the shroud for the pur- 
 pose; it is called a stop. The lizard should be singled, ready for 
 going aloft, by reeving it once through the thimble on the yard- 
 arm, and half-hitch round the yard-rope with the bight. 
 
 Trysails and storm-staysails should be bent at this time, if 
 they are to be bent at all before leaving harbor. 
 
 Note. — Good rope-yarns answer very well for robins for topgal- 
 lant-sails and royals. You are never at a loss for them in bend- 
 ing, and in unbending they are easily cut. 
 
 245.— BENDING A SPANKER. 
 
 Overhaul the brails w-ell, and pass the sail through their 
 bights. Haul the earing in the jaws out first ; then the outer 
 one. Splice the lacing into the outer eyelet-hole, lacing, and 
 secure the lacing in the jaws. Bring the after-leech taut, along 
 the gaff, and within a few inches of the blocks ; mark the place 
 for the throat-brails, also for the peak, opposite their respective 
 cheeks on the gaff, and seize the brails to the leech-rope, by pass- 
 ing the seizing between the strands and round the brails. Eye> 
 let-holes, worked close to the leech-rope, are far preferable for seiz 
 ing the brails to. 
 
 The throat-earing is generally passed through an eye-bolt in 
 the lower part of the jaws ; but this never brings the sail close to 
 the mast, and looks vei-y bad. In preference, I would recommend 
 having a score cut under the leather in the jaws, and the earing 
 passed from the cringle through this score, and an eye-bolt on 
 the upper side of the jaws, back through the cringle, and so on; 
 until sufficient turns are taken to secure the sail. Large staples 
 also are fitted to the jaws for the purpose, and keys on top, which 
 answer better, and are more secure ; also bending battens, instead 
 of lacing round the gaff. 
 
 The outer earing is passed round a cleat on the upper side of 
 the gaff, for the purpose. Take the earing from the cringle, pass 
 it round outside the cleat, back through the cringle, and round 
 the cleat, until sufficient tuins are taken ; then take several inner 
 
138 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 turns round the gaff and cringle ; frap all the outer turns together 
 with the remaining part of the earing, to bring the parts close, 
 and prevent any chance of their slipping over the cleat ; take two 
 half-hitches, expend, and seize the end. 
 
 To haul out this earing, and stretch the head of the sail well, 
 use a small jigger ; secure the double block to an eye-bolt in the 
 end of the gaff, pass three turns of the earing, cat's-paw the end, 
 to which hook the other block, and pull the earing well out. I 
 have frequently seen only one earing used ; but would prefer two, 
 as all inner turns, when much strain is on them, should have a 
 separate earing. If a new sail, and requires much stretching, it 
 is hauled well out before passing the earing, by hooking the in- 
 ner block of the jigger to the cringle. Man the throat and peak- 
 halliards, hoist the sail up gradually, seize the hoops, and reeve 
 the lacing. 
 
 Note. — Trysails are bent in the same manner. Some fit them 
 to haul in and out on the gaff, with hoops. 
 
 246 — FITTING SEA-GA8KETS. 
 
 Gaskets are made with foxes, or small spun-yarn, and platted 
 like making sennit. The spun-yarn is middled over the bolt,' 
 and platted together, the bight forming the eye ; sometimes a 
 piece is platted for the eye, then all worked together; if not, 
 the eye is served over afterwards. Sea-gaskets are long enough to 
 have only two on each yard-arm, and to furl the sail over booms 
 and all, when close-reefed, as there will be no more sail on the 
 yard-arms than at any other time. They are secured round the 
 jackstay, by reeving the end through the eye ; sometimes round 
 the yard. 
 
 247.— FITTING HAEBOE-GASKETS. 
 
 In making, the eye is left large enough to take a small thim- 
 ble, then platted broader in the centre, and tapered to a small 
 end. The broad part should be long enough to make the sail 
 in when furled with two reefs. They may be (to look well) about 
 two-and-a-half inches wide, but this is quite a matter of taste. 
 When put on the yard, the thimble is put underneath the jack- 
 stay from forward, and secured to it by a seizing passed round the 
 neck of the gasket and jackstay, close to the thimble, and when 
 the sail IS ready for their being passed, it is taken up and rove 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. I39 
 
 through the thimble, and the sail tossed well up ; the end then 
 shoved underneath between the sail and gasket, once or twice. 
 These always look better than any other, are easier passed and 
 secured, and keep the sail well up. There is generally one har- 
 bor-gasket to every other seam. 
 
 248.— BUNT-GASKETS. 
 
 These are always, as to fitting, a matter of taste, but at present 
 they are generally made of wove mat, two or three inches wide, 
 with the two legs crossed, and an eye in each end. I have seen 
 them made of rope, in the following manner : — Take the dis- 
 tance between the two quarter blocks, and measure it off on deck ; 
 drive a nail slightly into the deck at each end ; then measure 
 fi-om the centre the height the bunt is intended to be, and there 
 drive another nail. Take a piece of rope, from two and a half to 
 three-inch, and measure off sufficient to go over these nails, form 
 ing a tiiangle ; splice both ends together, and seize a thimble in 
 each corner ; put these thimbles over the nails again, and fill 
 the space in diamonds or squares, according to fancy. The 
 thimbles in each end are secured by the quarter-blocks to the jack- 
 stay, and also in the centre. It is not necessary to have thim- 
 bles in each end, as an eye will answer every purpose. A long 
 sennit-gasket is middled and seized by the upper thimble ; it 
 should be sufficiently long to go round the mast, when the gas- 
 ket is boused up, to secure it and the bunt well into the mast. 
 
 249.— HAMMOCK aiRTLINES. 
 
 Whips are rove at the yard-arms. If rope is not used on puipose 
 for girtlines, the studding-sail halliards will answer ; they are 
 rove as follows :— A tail block is put on each side of the jib-boom 
 end, and another on the spanker-boom. Overhaul down the 
 whips, and bend them round the girtlines with a bowhne knot, 
 allowing room for their rendering through. Belay the foremost 
 ends of the girtlines and trice up ; haul upon the after-part, and get 
 all taut. A man lays out on each yard-arm, and marks the girt- 
 line with rope-yarns where the tricing line, or a whip, should be 
 bent ; then lower away, cast off the bowline knot, and bend the 
 tricing lines round the girtlines with a rolling hitch. 
 
 The whips are led from the lower yards to the lower caps, 
 through blocks hooked to the bolts, and on deck. The lowei- 
 
£40 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 end of the tricing-line is often bent to the girt-line as an inhaul 
 or downhaul ; but it is best to have them separate, as it prevents 
 walking the hammocks up, and laying across the deck; and 
 there are plenty of other ropes' ends which will answer the 
 same purpose. 
 
 When one girt-line of a side is not enough, others are rove in- 
 side in the same manner. The generality of ships reeve them 
 inside of the lower rigging, as they are much easier got down, 
 and the hammocks are not so likely to get dirty, or overboard. 
 
 350.— STOPPING ON HAMMOCKS. 
 
 Every man should be obliged to have three knittle-stops at the 
 head, and two at the foot of his hammock. When stopping on, 
 they should overlay at each side about two or three inches, and 
 be stopped together at the foot — numbers up and in. 
 
 The forecastle-men should stop their hammocks on forward, 
 next foretop-men, next maintop-men, next mizentop-men, next 
 after-guard, idlers, and boys. Boatswain's mates abreast of each 
 hatchway. 
 
 251.— PURLINa OR STOWING THE BUNT OF A 
 
 SAIL. 
 
 When the sail is nearly rolled up, hook the bunt-jigger, bouse 
 it well up, lower the buntlines, and shove the sail well into the 
 skin, taking pains to keep the bunt square ; pass and secure the 
 bunt-gasket — take off the jigger — lower and square the studding- 
 sail booms, and pass the heel-lashings. 
 
 252 FUELING COURSES. 
 
 The leeches are handed in along the yard, then the sail rolled 
 up snug, with the ends of the points passed in towards the bunt, 
 to give the sail a gradual increase in that direction. Pass the 
 gaskets, lower the booms, and, if required, stop up the gear. 
 
 Bowlines are stopped to the sKngs close down, and hauled taut 
 on the forecastle. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 141 
 
 The bowline-bridles of all sails, in furling, are laid with the 
 toggle towards the bunt, and bridles taut along the yard. 
 
 When a sail is neatly furled, it appears neither above nor be- 
 low the yard — earings well slewed up — sail smooth under the gas- 
 kets, bunt square, and a taut skin. The heels of the booms 
 should be square, and every thing necessary completed, previous 
 lO squaring the yards. 
 
 253.— MAKING UP SAILS. 
 
 In making up a course, stretch the head of the sail well taut 
 along the deck or loft ; bring up to the head the belly-band, then 
 the foot, leaving the clew-blocks out at each end ; also the bow- 
 line-bridles, and roll taut up ; pass the head-earing round the 
 sail close inside the bolt-rope, and put a stop of good spun-yarn 
 to every seam. The reef earings are made up in the sail. 
 
 In making up a topsail, stretch the head of the sail taut along ; 
 bring the second reef up to the head, and lay all the points and 
 earings snugly along ; then bring up the belly-band, and then the 
 foot. The clew-blocks, bowline-bridles, reef-tackles, and toggles 
 or span, should be left out, so that when the sail is sent aloft for 
 bending, the sheets can be rove, reef-tackles and bowlines toggled, 
 without loosing the sail, which will be found of great advantage 
 when blowing fresh. Roll well up, stop with spun-yarn at each 
 seam, and expend the head-earings round the ends of the sail. 
 
 Topgallant-sails are made up with the clews out, and bowline- 
 bridles, (if wished,) but they are always bent to the yards on deck ; 
 so the neater, they can be made up the better. 
 
 Note. — The reef-earings of the topsails should be secured to 
 the cringles, before rolling up ; bowline-hitch the end of the first 
 reef-earing to the head, second to the first, third to the second, and 
 fourth to the third reef cringles ; as there is sometimes much 
 trouble in getting hold of an earing when it is not secured as above. 
 
 All spare sails should be tallied, before being stowed in the sail- 
 room, as it will prevent all mistakes ; but if a sail is properly 
 stowed, and the master and sailmaker take a list when they are 
 stowing, there never can be any diflSculty in finding what may 
 be wanted. 
 
 Royals are made up the same as topgallant-sails. 
 
j^ THE KEDGE-ANCHOfe; 
 
 354.— TO MAKE UP A TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL. 
 
 Stretch the sail taut along, and overhaul the downhaul through 
 the thimble and block, and bight it along the whole length of the 
 leech. Then roll up towards the inner leech, lay the sheets 
 along the whole length of the sail, roll up over all, and stop the 
 sail well up with spun-yarn or foxes. The earings are expended 
 round the head of the sail when bent to the yard. 
 
 ^oife.— The topgallant studding-sail is also made up in the same 
 manner. 
 
 255.— FURLING FOEB AND AFT SAILS, (WITH 
 CLOTHS OR COVERS.) 
 
 The jib is hauled close down, and the sea-gasket passed round 
 it. The cloth is then placed over, and the stops tied. Eyelet- 
 holes are made in each edge for the stops. Jib-sheets and hal- 
 liards stopped, and hauled taut. 
 
 Purling Spanker. — It is also furled best with a cover ; it can 
 be furled in the two after cloths, the same as a jib, but it never 
 looks so well, takes time, and in most instances has to be loosed 
 two or three times before it gives satisfaction. 
 
 In furling with a cover, the sail is brailed close up, and the 
 cover stopped round, commencing from the end of the gaff, and 
 working in to the mast, and down on deck. 
 
 Trysails are stowed in the same manner as spankers. 
 
 The fore-topmast staysail is stowed as a jib, in the netting.* 
 
 Note. — Stowing fore and aft sails requires more handy-work 
 than seamanship, the principal thing being to furl them in the 
 smallest compass, and in the after cloths, as it brings the seams 
 up and down. I have seen staysails admired for their neatness 
 from the deck, when the greater part of the sails were lying 
 loose in the top. This should be avoided as much as possible, 
 as something should be sacrificed in appearance, to preserve a 
 sail from injury. Taking a little trouble will get aU the sail in 
 the skin ; and although it may be larger, it can be made to look 
 neat. 
 
 Jibs require more pains taken in stowing, than any of the other 
 fore and aft sails. There is no necessity of stowing them in 
 their own cloths, when furling cloths are allowed. {See allowance). 
 
 Canvass bottoms are used instead of nettings, for staysails. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ^43 
 
 256.— REEFING COURSES TO JACKSTAYS. 
 
 ^MtCt'^r!]}^}? ''.f°f'^i ^^T i^^'^ly one point requisite, 
 neceLaiy '^' '^''' '"™' "^" '^°' ^"t it is un- 
 
 fh?noint?^ P"'''* through the eyelet-hole from the after side, 
 the points being made with eyes. Through the eyes reeve a 
 small sized rope; this is called the jack-lile. Between every 
 four eyelet-holes, stitch the rope well to the sail, on each yard- 
 arm, leaving three points out Take a piece of small rope, splice 
 one end to the eyelet-hole in the head of the sail, reeve it through 
 hat left in the reef, and splice the other end into the same eye 
 let hole in the head, leaving about two feet slack. This will be 
 found of much use in gatheririg the sail up for reefing—it is 
 called a grab-rope, or reef-line. 
 
 257.— REEF-EARINGS 
 
 Are fitted the same as the head— an eyelet-hole is worked be- 
 low the cringle, large enough to take the earing; through this 
 put the earing, reeve the end through the long-eye, and haul it 
 taut through. The earings are sometimes put in the cringles, 
 but the cringle cannot be so well hauled up on the yard, and 
 consequently will not be so well secured for carrying sail ; and it 
 not only puts more strain on the yard-arm points, but also injures 
 the sail. They are also fitted on the bight, and passed on both 
 ends; one end for the outer turns, and the other the inner turns. 
 
 To pass a reef-earing. — For the first, second, and third reef, 
 take it from the sail, on the foreside of the yard, round the cleat 
 for the purpose, through the cringle, round the yard and through 
 the cringle, until three or four outei- turns are passed ; then reeve 
 the bight through the cringle fiom aft forward — take a round 
 turn in the cringle ; then take the end from the latter under the 
 yard up abaft over, and through the bight ; then back over the 
 yard on the foreside, through the cringle, from underneath the 
 yard ; sle'tv the cringle well up, and leech off the sail, and pass 
 suflicient turns to secure ; then expend the end round the yard 
 and half-hitch round all, or a clove-hitch to the lift. 
 
 A close reef-earing is passed the same way, but hauled out on 
 the after side of the yard. Being hauled out abaft, it covers all 
 the other reefs, and there being so much sail on the fore-side, it 
 would never keep up. 
 
144 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 In passing the outer tuins for each reef, take two for the first; 
 three for the second and third, and four for the fourth. For the 
 inner turns, expend the earing, except your earings are fitted on 
 the bight. 
 
 258 BENDING STUDDINaSAILS. 
 
 All are bent to the yard alike, and the same precautions used 
 as in other sails, keeping the rope next the yard. The earings 
 are rove through the holes iii the yard-arms, and cringle in the 
 head of the sails ; two or three outer turns are taken, and the 
 earing nearly expended in inner turns, then frap the outer turns 
 together with the end, and half-hitch, if the sail is laced to the 
 yard — the lacing is spliced into one eyelet-hole, rove through the 
 other, and passed round the yard. 
 
 They are sometimes bent by half-hitching the lacing, which 
 plan keeps the sail up, and much closer to the yard. A round 
 turn is also used, by being passed round the yard-arm and 
 through the eyelet-hole twice, and from the latter through the 
 next eyelet-hole, round the yard. They are then made up — the 
 topmast studding-sail to the foremost shrouds of fore and main 
 rigging ; topgallant, in foremost part of the topmast rigging ; and 
 lower, on the booms. The topmast studding-sail is also some- 
 times kept on the booms, and tarpaulin covers fitted for them. 
 
 These sails are sometimes bent with long rope-bands, and un- 
 bent when taken in and stowed away, if dry. 
 
 In making up a 
 topmast studding- 
 sail, when bent, 
 overhaul the down- 
 haul the length of 
 the luff or outer 
 leech ; then take 
 the foot up to the 
 yard, and place the 
 tack block out. 
 Bight the down- 
 haul along the 
 yard, also the 
 sheets ; roll the 
 sail snugly up, and 
 stop it with yarni. 
 Lower studding- 
 sails are bent and 
 
 made up in the same manner as topmast studding-sails, with the 
 
 sheet in. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 145 
 
 I have seen these sails when placed in the rigging ready foi 
 Betting, with the sheets and downhaul left out and stopped to the 
 yards ; the tack stopped from the lower yard, up and dow^n the 
 foremost shroud and bent to the sail. This was done with the 
 idea that the sail could be set much quicker ; but it was found 
 that the sail on the opposite side (which was set in the general 
 way), was set with less trouble, and in less time. There will be 
 plenty of time to bend the tack and halliards (when the order is 
 given to get ready), while getting burtons up, jiggers on topsail- 
 lift, weather-braces taut, and rigging the booms out. 
 
 Note. — The topgallant studding-sail tack is generally kept 
 bent, and slacked when bracing the yards up. 
 
 It has frequently occurred to me, when I have heard the order 
 from the quarter-deck, in the event of setting studding-sails, " to 
 rig out and hoist away ;" how can it be possible to rig out the 
 fore-topmast studding-sail booms, when probably there may be 
 fifty men clapped on the lower studding-sail halliards, hauling 
 the booms in, and seldom more 'than six or eight men at the 
 most, on the in-and-out jigger, trying to get the boom out. 
 
 I should recommend to rig-out and secure first, then hoist 
 away. 
 
 259.— PREPAKATIONS FOR LEAVING THE WHARF 
 AND HAULING OUT IN THE STREAM. 
 
 To haul off and moor ship. — Before hauhng off, all the spare 
 spars should be hoisted in and secured, boat's chocks placed, all 
 the stores, provisions, and water got on board ; it would be also 
 well to see that there is a sufficient quantity of brooms, bath- 
 brick for cleaning bright-work, lime and size for whitewash, 
 and everything that is allowed and requisite for the ship. The 
 complement of men from the receiving ship should be got on 
 board, and the boats provided with crews, oars, and sails. When 
 everything necessary is completed, make preparations for hauling 
 off. Get up kedges and hawsers ready for instant service ; have 
 the ends of the hawsers pointed up each hatchway, ready for 
 handing out if wanted. Run out a kedge, and drop it where the 
 first, or weather-anchor is to be planted ; have lines from the 
 ship to the shore— single the fasts— hang over fenders and out- 
 riggers — man the hawser, cast off the fasts, and warp off; check- 
 ing her as may be necessary by the lines. When warped out to 
 the kedge, run it up to the bows, and let go the weather anchor ; 
 veer as fast as she will take it, assisting her in going astern by 
 the mizen-topsail, if necessary. If to shoot her to either side, use 
 the helm, jib, or spanker, and in case there is no wind, use kedges 
 
 and hawsers. 
 
 10 
 
146 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR : 
 
 When a double scope is out, stopper the cable, and let go the 
 second anchor — furl the mizen-topsail — bring-to on the weather 
 cable, and heave in to the moorings ; moor a little taut, to allow 
 for veering. If a hemp-cable, clap on the service, and veer to 
 the hawse-hole. 
 
 260.— CAKKYING OUT AN ANCHOR "WITH A BOAT. 
 
 Hang the anchor to the stern of the boat by good stoppers, and 
 have the buoy and buoy-rope attached to it ; pass the end of the 
 cable or hawser out through the hawse-hole, and coil away enough 
 of it in the bows of the boat, to reach the bottom. Now capsize 
 the coil in the stern sheets, and then the end will be uppermost ; 
 bend on to the anchor. There should also be a sufficient length 
 of the hawser coiled away in the boat to reach the place destined 
 for the anchor. When in the right place, heave over the buoy, 
 and see that the buoy-rope is clear — stand clear of the cable, and 
 slip the stoppers. In case of making a guess-warp, vice versa. 
 
 261.— MARKING THE LEAD-LINE. 
 
 At two fathoms, two strips of leather ; at three fathoms, three 
 strips of leather ; at five fathonjs, a white rag ; at seven fathoms, 
 a red rag ; at ten fathoms, a piece of leather with a hole in it ; 
 at thirteen, the same as three ; at fifteen, the same as five ; at 
 seventeen, the same as seven ; at twenty fathoms, two knots. 
 
 Deep-sea lead-lines are marked the same, as far as twenty fa 
 thorns, then add one knot for every ten fathoms, and a strip of 
 leather for every five fathoms. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 147 
 
 262.— HEAVING THE LEAD 
 
 A hole is made in the upper part of 
 the lead, a piece of rope rove through it, 
 and both ends spliced together ;* an eye 
 is spliced in the end of the line, put 
 through this strap, the lead shoved 
 through the bight, and hauled taut. 
 
 Breast ropes are fitted in the chains, 
 for the men to lean against when heav- 
 ing the lead. They are made as sword- 
 mats, tapered at each end, and secured 
 to two shrouds, with seizings passed ' 
 round them, and through the eyes in 
 each. 
 
 Heaving the lead is generally per- 
 formed by a man who stands in the 
 main chains to windward. Having the 
 line all leady to run out, without inter- 
 ruption, he holds it at a distance of 
 nearly a fathom from the lead, and hav- 
 ing swung it backwards and forwalrds 
 three or four times, in order to acquire a if 
 greater velocity with the swing, he then swings it over his head, 
 and thence as far forward as is necessary ; so that by the lead 
 sinking whilst the ship advances, the line may be almost perpen- 
 dicular when it reaches the bottom. The person sounding then 
 proclaims the depth of water, in a kind of singing manner. 
 Thus : if the mark of five fathoms is close to the surface of the 
 water, he sings out, " by the mark 5 !" and, as there are no marks 
 at 4, 6, 8, &c., he estimates those numbers, and sings, "by the 
 deep 4 !" &c. If he considers it to be a quarter, or a half, more 
 than any particular number, he sings out, " and a quarter 5 !" 
 " and a half 4 !" &c. If he conceives the depth to be three quar- 
 ters more than a particular number, he calls it a quarter less than 
 the next ; thus, at four fathoms and three-quarters, he calls, " a 
 quarter less 5 !" and so on, according to the depth of the water. 
 
 A leather beeket may be used for light leads, insead of a rope strap. 
 
148 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 263.— MAEKING A LOG-LINE 
 
 Allow twelve fathoms for stray line, where stick in a white 
 rag ; then at every forty-seven feet and six-tenths, mark the Une 
 as follows, viz.: at one, one leather ; at two, two knots ; at three, 
 three knots ; and also having a mark at every half-knot. The 
 glasses should be proved with a good watch, having a second- 
 hand. 
 
 The principle of the log-line is, that a knot is the same part 
 of a sea-mile, that half-a-minute is of an hour; therefore the 
 length of a knot should be one-hundred-and-twentieth the length 
 of a sea mile, or fifty-one feet ; but as it is more convenient to 
 have the knot divided into eight parts, of six feet each, the pro- 
 portional reduction is necessary in the glass. Therefore as 51 
 feet : 30 seconds : : 48 feet : 28, 4.17 seconds ; but as the frac- 
 tion can be more easily allowed in the line than the glass, another 
 proportion is necessary, viz., as 28, 4.17 seconds : 48 feet : : 28 
 seconds to 47.6 feet, or the length of a knot. 
 
 Note. — Log-lines are kept on reels for the purpose. 
 
 The length of the stray-line is regulated by the size of the 
 ship. 
 
 264.— GETTING READY FOE SEA. 
 
 Observe and note the exact line of flotation. See that all the 
 rigging is properly up, alow and aloft. See that the preventer- 
 gear is on, as well as breast-ropes for leadsmen, and leads and 
 lines in the chains. If requisite, grease the masts, jib and stay- 
 sail-stays, lifts and trusses, and reef-pendants — sheet-anchor 
 stowed — guns secured — boats hoisted in and secured. Care 
 should be taken that the harness-casks are lashed — chests and 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 149 
 
 tables properly cleated, and binnacles secured. Let the armorer 
 examine the slip-stoppers, and see that they are oiled, and in 
 proper condition— get the swinging-booms fore and aft— awnings 
 below, and awning ridge-ropes down— down jack-staff— see that 
 the tiller-ropes are all clear, and that the tiller moves freely ; also 
 that the reUeving-tackles and spare tiller-ropes are at hand. 
 
 Cross topgallant yards, bend the gear f take the covers off the 
 jibs, staysail, spanker, and trysails, and coil every rope down clear, 
 for running— have the . studding-sails stopped, ready for going 
 aloft, and the royal-haUiards down on the weather side. Cat and 
 fish overhauled down. Timenoguys in their respective places. 
 Life-buoys in order. Accommodation-ladder unshipped and 
 stowed away. Pendants and ladders taken off the swinging- 
 booms — head-cranes unshipped — chafing-gear on its respective 
 places. It would also be well to see that there is a sufficiency of 
 sand on board. 
 
 265 CLEAR HAWSE. 
 
 Call all hands to " clear hawse." Lash a stout single-block to 
 the bowsprit, through which reeve the clear hawse-pendant; 
 baul the launch under the bows, or if there is too much sea on, 
 or she is not out, send a hand down in a bowline, and hook the 
 pendant to the riding-cable, below the turn ; bouse them up clear 
 of the water, after which pass a stout lashing round both cables. 
 
 If there should be a heavy sea on, or the wind flawey and 
 variable, it would be well to pass the end of a hawser out of the 
 hawse-hole, and Tiitch it to the cable,* to relieve the lashing. 
 Reeve ropes through blocks on each side of the bowsprit end, for 
 bow-lines, and pass them in at the hawse-hole, so as to take out 
 an elbow ; for instance — suppose the starboard was the clearing 
 cable, take the larboard bow-line down under the cable, up into 
 the starboard hawse-hole, and the starboard one over to the lar- 
 board side of the cable ; then follow the lead of the larboard bow- 
 line, bend on several fathoms inside, and stop along to the hawse- 
 
 * See clear hairse-shackle and pendant. 
 
150 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 hole ; draw the splice, or unshackle, bend on the hawse-rope, off- 
 stoppers, and run out ; hang the bights to the bowsprit (if hemp- 
 cable), with slip-ropes, and send in the bow-lines again, the same 
 way as before. When the end is out, " cast off," dip it fair, and 
 bend on again to the cable ; rouse in, slack down the slip-ropes, 
 and splice or shackle the cable ; haul it taut with a deck-tackle, 
 and bitt, and stopper as before. Cast off the hawser, unlash the 
 cable, unreeve the clear hawse-pendant, unlash the block from 
 the bowsprit end, and clear up the deck. 
 
 Note. — If there is a round turn and an elbow in the hawse 
 after rousing the cable, repeat the operation as before; it is 
 always well to prevent confusion, by taking out one elbow at a 
 time. A cross, is when the cables lay across each other, or when 
 the ship has swung foul once ; an elbow is two crosses, and a 
 round turn is three crosses ; a round turn and elbow is five cross- 
 es. It can readily be seen thus, in clearing hawse with a round 
 turn, a cross will be left in the cables. 
 
 The anchor is fouled in the very operation of letting it go ; 
 the weight of the chain-cable causing the running out part to 
 fall over and foul the stock. To avoid this, some officers pursue 
 the practice of "letting go" the anchor with the cable bitted, 
 which plan is strongly recommended. 
 
 From the weight of the chain-cable, compared with that of the 
 hempen, the former is less hable than the latter to foul the an- 
 chor ; but no speculation should induce an oflScer to depart from 
 that practice which can alone ensure a clear anchor. 
 
 266.— WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH THE LAUNCH. 
 
 This may be done by under-running, when the ship has sUp- 
 ped the cable, or weighing by the buoy-rope, when the anchor is 
 lymg m too shoal water for the ship to be hove up to it. 
 
 Ship the roller on the stern of the launch, have strong tackles 
 with a Jigger also, and some good rope for stoppers. Get the end 
 of the cable over the roller ; pass a strap round it, to which hook 
 the double block of the tackle, and the single one to a bolt in the 
 bows; man the faU, and as the cable comes in, French-flake it 
 along the thwarts; when the tackle comes two blocks, "stopper 
 and fleet;'' when the cable is "up and down," clap the jigger on 
 the fall of the tackle, and heave the boat's stern well down in 
 the water, and stopper securely. Send all the men in the bows 
 of the boat; jump the boat and break the anchor out of the 
 
 whT'^i;. -^^ Tl *^^ ^'t^^ ^^^?' ""^ '*°PP^i' a^d heave up; 
 when the ring of the anchor is above water, pass a short ring- 
 stopper, haul the buoy on board, and bring the boat to the ship; 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT, 
 
 151 
 
 when alongside, hook the cat, and cat the anchor. Get the end 
 ot the cable unchnched, passed into the hawse, and the remain- 
 der hauled out of the launch. (If chain-cable, unshackle.) 
 
 267.— WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH A BUOT-ROPE. 
 
 Get the buoy-rope over the roller, clap on a tackle, and weigh 
 the anchor as before. When it is secured, man the capstan, 
 heave the launch in under the bows, and cat the anchor. 
 
 Anchors are generally weighed with the buoy-rope when the 
 cable has parted, and the end cannot be grappled ; when this is 
 the case, the anchor may be weighed with launch, brought un- 
 der the bows and catted, and the cable unclinched and hove in ; 
 or the ship might be waiped over the buoy, and the cat-fall taken 
 to the buoy-rope. 
 
j^52 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 368r-B0ATING AN ANCHOR. 
 
 Place the flukes perpendicularly over the stern, and the stock 
 a-thwart-ships in the stem sheets, resting horizontally upon a 
 loose thwart, placed there previously for the purpose, and steady 
 all by one or two lashings. 
 
 In letting go, nothing more is required than to cant the anchor 
 over the quarter, by means of the thwart, takmg care previously 
 that the buoy, buoy-rope, and cable, be perfectly clear. 
 
 Light anchors should be boated contrary to this, i. e., flukes 
 inboard, and stock out. 
 
 269.— TAKING IN A LAUNCH. 
 
 Brace and secure the yards the same as when getting up the 
 anchors, and also rig the same purchases ; place the chocks, pass 
 everything out of the launch, and hook the purchases to spans ; 
 have a few hands in the boat to keep her clear of the ship's side. 
 Man the yard tackle falls ; have some hands to take in the slack 
 of the stay fall ; "walk away ;" when the boat leaves the water, 
 take out the plug. When high enough to clear the waist anchor 
 stock, haul over on the main stay, easing away the fore and 
 main yards ; when the stern is over the deck, haul over the fore 
 stay, lower, and place her in the chocks. 
 
 The other boats may be got on board by the same purchases. 
 The launch is stowed on the larboard side ; the first cutter on the 
 starboard side ;* the second cutter, inside the launch, and the 
 third cutter inside the first. When all are in, unrig the purchases, 
 square the yards, and set up the gripes. 
 
 The quarter and stern boats are hoisted up to their davits, and 
 secured to them by stoppers, and the gripes set up. 
 
 • t. e., if the ship be a. frigate or larger. Single-deck ships have but one nest 
 of boats. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 153 
 
 270.— TAKING IN BOATS BOTH SIDES AT ONCE. 
 
 The yards are kept square, and secured on both sides by the 
 lifts; burtons, and quarter lifts. Use the winding and stay tackles 
 for the heaviest boats, and the yard tackles for the lightest ones ; 
 the topsail halliards forward, and the main pendant tackle aft, 
 acting as stays to bring them on board. It may be necessaiy to 
 come up the forward backstays, as they would be likely to inter- 
 fere with the bows of the boats ; after which proceed as before. 
 
 Taking in a hoot at sea. — Back the main-topsail, get the boat 
 to leeward, secure the lower yards as before directed, and hoist 
 her in. The boat coming in to leeward, tackles will be neces- 
 saiy to get her to windward sufficiently to lower away. 
 
 When before the wind, a boat might be got in by securing the 
 yards as before, and taking a hawser from aft to the stern of the 
 boat, to keep her from sending or pitching forward when leaving 
 the water, and thereby endangering the yards. 
 
 Note. — Some of our large vessels have two sets of yard and 
 stay tackles, for the purpose of taking in boats both sides at once ; 
 but the above mentioned gear will answer all purposes in any 
 case of emergency, where the manoeuvre is not considered as ex- 
 ercising. 
 
PART IV. 
 
 271.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH. 
 
 - See that the hawse is clear ; overhaul a range of the weather 
 cable — get up nippers — ^pass the messenger — knock up the stan- 
 chions — ship the gratings — ship, and swifter-in the capstan bars 
 — rig the fish-davit — overhaul cat and fish ; and call " all hands 
 unmoor ship." 
 
 When the cable grows with the angle of the main-stay, the 
 ship is said to ride at a "long stay;" when it grows with the 
 angle of the fore-stay, the ship is said to be at a " short-stay." 
 When perpendicular, the phrase is " up and down." Prom one 
 or other of the two last mentioned positions, sail is generally 
 made in getting under-weigh. 
 
 If from the nature of the ground, or strength of the wind, 
 there should be any probability of dragging the anchor, sail is 
 generally made from a " short stay." In such a case, particular 
 attention ought to be paid that the head yards be not braced too 
 sharp a-box ; for the object being to cant the ship with the least 
 possible sternway, the sooner the head sails lift or fill the better. 
 The jibs are hoisted the instant they will take. If, after all, the 
 ship drags her anchor, you can pall the capstan — stopper over all. 
 brace round the head yards, and force her a-head by the' sails, as 
 far as may be necessary ; then back the head yards, lay-to, and 
 get the anchor up. 
 
 If there should be so much wind and sea, as to make it a matter 
 of difficulty to get the anchor, but plenty of sea-room, brace the 
 yards a-box, according to the tack you wish to go upon, and get 
 the anchor up and secured before making sail In moderate 
 weather, and ordinary circumstances, sail is generally made when 
 the cable is " up and down." Sometimes a stern-board is neces- 
 sary, with the anchor dragging on the ground ; at other times, a 
 tack must be made in that position. 
 
OR YOUNU SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 155 
 
 If riding by the starboard cable, and no impediment to port, it 
 will be the most eligible method, to cast her on the starboard tack, 
 as the cable will then be clear- of the cutwater, and the ship 
 being to leeward of the anchor, it uan be more easily catted and. 
 fished. If there should be much sea on, this would be the best 
 plan. 
 
 Having determined to cast on the starboard tack, overhaul the 
 lifts, trusses, and backstay-falls. The fore-topsail being put aback, 
 by the starboard braces ; the main and mizen by the wind, with 
 larboard after braces, heaving around briskly, and before breaking 
 ground, give her a shear with the starboard helm ; when up, hoist 
 the jib, keeping the helm a-starboard, until the stern-board ex- 
 ceeds the velocity of the tide, when shift it, .grapple the buoy, 
 and cat the anchor. When she has fallen off, so as to fill the 
 after sails, let flow the jib-sheet, haul out the spanker, set top- 
 gallant sails and courses, and trim the yards and sails properly. 
 
 To cast off on the larboard tack, put the helm a-port, and brace 
 the yards the contrary way. 
 
 272.— WHEN THE MESSENGER STRANDS, OR IS 
 LIKELY TO PART. 
 
 If the messenger is likely to part, from the great strain upon it, 
 stopper immediately, and either pass a new one, or reeve a viol 
 purchase, assisting it with the cat-fall. Lash the viol block to 
 the cable near the hawse-hole ; clinch one end of the hawser to 
 the main-mast, snatch the bite in the block, and take the other 
 end to the capstan. To assist the viol, pass a strap round the 
 cable, close down to the water, to which hook the cat-fall, and 
 heave up on both purchases. 
 
 If the messenger should strand, stopper immediately, cut U, 
 and then knot or splice it. 
 
156 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 273.-10 GET UNDEK-WEian AND STAND BEFORE 
 THE WIND. 
 
 
 Make all preparations for getting under-weigh, heave-in, and 
 make sail as before. Lay the main and mizen topsails square 
 aback ; the fore one sharp aback, according to the side it is in- 
 tended to cast — heave-in, cant her the right way with the helm 
 before tripping, and as soon as the velocity of the stern-board is 
 greater than that of the tide, shift the helm, grapple the buoy, 
 run up the jib as soon as it will take, and haul aft the weather- 
 sheet. While falling off, cat and fish the anchor ; as she gathers 
 head-way, shift the helm ; when before the wind, right it — square 
 the head yards, and brail up the jib — set topgallant sails, royals, 
 and foresail — haul taut the lifts, trusses, backstay-falls, and if 
 necessary, set the studding-sails. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 157 
 
 274.— IN GETTING UNDER-WEIGH, TO BACK ASTERN 
 AND AVOID DANGER. 
 
 Make all preparations as before. If required to cast on the 
 starboard tack, sheer her with the starboard helm ; to bring the 
 wind on the starboard bow, brace the yards aback, about half- 
 way up with the larboard braces ; haul out the spanker and keep 
 the boom nearly amid-ships. Heave up briskly, grapple the buoy, 
 and as soon as the anchor is up, put the helm hard a-weather to 
 keep her to — cat and fish the anchor. Having made sufficient 
 Btern-board, shift the helm, brace the after yards, ease off the 
 spanker sheet, and run up the jib. When full aft, brace up the 
 head yards, and as she gathers headway, right the hehn and 
 make sail. To cast on the lai-board tack, sheer her with the 
 port helm, brace all sharp aback, and proceed as before. 
 
 275.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH— A SHOAL ON 
 EACH BEAM. 
 
 It becomes necessary to proceed to sea, and is impossible to 
 weather either of th jse a-beam ; but there is just room to pass 
 between a shoal astern, and either of those a-beam, with the wind 
 blowing fresh. 
 
 Pass the stream cable out of one of the quarter ports ; bend on 
 one end to the cable, and secure the other to the topsail sheet- 
 
]-^Q THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 bills ; draw the splice* of the cable, bend a slip-buoy to it, and 
 heave it overboard. See the stoppers clear for slipping ; stop 
 the topsails to the yards vdth spun-yarn, casting off the gaskets. 
 Loose the courses, jib, and spanker — mast-head the topsail-yards 
 
 man the jib-halliards — sheer her from the cable with the helm 
 
 slip and run up the jib — keep fast the stream-cable, and lei 
 
 her swing round. When she hea.ls for the passage, slip the 
 stream-cable, right the helm, sheet home the topsails, set the 
 courses, and other sails if necessary ; then stand through the 
 passage. 
 
 276.— GETTING UNDEE-WEIGH IN A NAREOW 
 CHANNEL. 
 
 At anchor in a narrow 
 channel, riding to a strong 
 leeward tide, and blowing 
 fresh ; a ship astern, and 
 also one on each quarter, so 
 near that there is not room 
 to wear, for casting ; it is ne- 
 cessary to put to sea, and to 
 do so a passEige must be ef- 
 fected between the two ships. 
 Make all preparations for 
 getting under-weigh, and 
 heave-in as described before. 
 Loose the topsails ; if riding by the star-board cable, give her a 
 rank sheer with the starboard helm ; set up the starboard back- 
 stays, and bear aft the larboard ones ; overhaul lifts and trusses ; 
 haul out the spanker, and get the boom over on the larboard 
 quarter ; lead along the main tack and sheet ; run up the jib, 
 and haul aft the weather sheet ; " Heave round cheerily ;" run 
 the anchor up, grapple the buoy, and as soon as she fills, meet 
 her with the helm ; board the main tack to catch her; trim the 
 jib and spanker sheets, set the foresail, and trim sharp ; haul 
 taut the bowlines ; stand on as far as may be necessary. 
 
 Note. — A good deal of uncertainty attends this manoeuvre ; if 
 there is room, it would be the best plan to lay the yards aback. 
 It is confidently asserted by old experienced seamen, that the 
 above method is perfectly practicable. 
 
 • If chain cable, unshackle. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT 159 
 
 277.— HEAD TO WIND, CAST ON STARBOARD TACK. 
 
 Everything having been previously prepared, heave in and 
 make sail as before. Sheer her with a starboard helm ; brace the 
 head yards shaip up with the starboard braces, and counter brace 
 the after ones ; haul out the spanker, and get the boom on the 
 larboard quarter ; heave in,' and up anchor ; up jib as soon as 
 it will take ; and when the stern-board exceeds the velocity of 
 the tide, shift the helm. When the after sails are full, trim the 
 spanker, let flow the jib sheet, cat and fish the anchor, haul aft 
 the jib sheet, brace round the head-yards, and make sail. 
 
 278.— WINDWARD TIDE— GET UNDBR-WEIGH AND 
 STAND BEFORE THE WIND. 
 
 Make all preparation for getting under-weigh, heave in, loose 
 jib, up anchor, grapple the buoy, run up the jib, cat and fish the 
 anchor, and make sail with expedition. 
 
 If it is necessary to have the ship under greater command, 
 as might be the case in a narrow channel, or crowded harbor, 
 ■t would be better to proceed as follows : — 
 
 Heave in to a " short stay," loose the courses, topsails, jib and 
 spanker. If riding by the starboard cable, sheer her with the 
 
ItJO 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 staiboard helm, and bring the wind on the larboard quarter , 
 brace the yards to, by the larboard braces, and keep them shiver- 
 ing by the helm. "Heave up ;" fill the after yards, and square 
 the head ones ; haul aft jib sheet on starboard tack ; cat and fish 
 the anchor ; up hehn; fill the head yards, shiver the after ones, 
 get her before the wind, and make sail. 
 
 279.— TO GET UNDEK-WEIGH, AND STAND OUT ON 
 
 A WIND. 
 
 Make all preparations — commence heaving in ; loose jib and 
 spanker ; top up and bear over the boom on the right quarter, 
 and the helm to the side which it is intended to cast ; " heave 
 up ;" get the buoy ; haul out on the spanker as soon as it will 
 take. When the wind gets abeam, run up the jib, and meet her 
 with the helm ; cat and fish the anchor ; loose, sheet home, and 
 hoist the topsails, brace up, bring by and make sail. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 16| 
 
 2 80.— RIDING HEAD TO TIDE, WIND ON THE STAR- 
 BOARD QUARTER, TO GET UNDER-WEIGH ON THE 
 STARBOARD TACK. 
 
 Make all preparations, heave short, loose sails, sheet home 
 and hoist the topsails, bracing them to with the starboard braces ; 
 keep them shivering, by the assistance of the topsails and helm, 
 — " heave round,"— break ground— put the helm a-starboard— 
 brace full the head yards — run up the jib, and let her pay round 
 to port ; heave up the anchor, and grapple the buoy. Haul out 
 the spanker as soon as it will take — shift over the head sheets, 
 and square the head yards — trim aft the jib-sheet, and meet her 
 with the helm. Cat and fish the anchor, and make sail as neces- 
 sary. / 
 
 281.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH— WIND ACROSS THE 
 
 TIDE. 
 
 In getting under-weigh, say ebb-tide, make all preparations, 
 loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails ; brace up the fore and 
 mizen topsails, and lay the main yard to the mast. Give her a spoke 
 or two of the lee wheel, so as to take the main -topsail well aback. 
 " Heave up," cat and fish the anchor, and grapple the buoy ; at 
 the same time, set the jib and spanker — fill the main yard, 
 stand on to a convenient place, and then tack or veer. 
 
 The evolution is determined by the circumstance of there being 
 mce room to windward or to leeward. 
 
 Mood- Tide. — Proceed as before, until the anchor is catted and 
 fished; then hoist the jib, haul out the spanker, fill the main- 
 topsail, and stand out, making whatever sail may be judged 
 necessary. . 
 
 11 
 
162 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 282 TO BACK AND FILL IN A TIDE-WAT. 
 
 This manoeuvre is 
 only executed when 
 a ship is to proceed 
 up or down a rapid 
 river against the 
 wind, which is sup- 
 posed to be Ught, and 
 may be done by 
 two methods, viz., 
 driving before the 
 wind, or broadside 
 to it. When the 
 channel is broad 
 enough, the latter 
 method is preferable, 
 as the ship will be 
 
 more under the command of her helm. 
 
 283.— DRIVING BEFORE THE WIND. 
 
 This is only done in a very narrow 
 channel. Heave up the anchor, and get 
 her before the wind, with just sail enough 
 to keep her so. Suppose her under top- 
 sails, and as she di'ops with the tide, it 
 becomes necessary for her to remain sta- 
 tionary, to allow a ship to pass her stern, 
 — set topgallant^sails, and if required to 
 shoot ahead, drop the foresail. If to avoid 
 a rock, or ship astern, put the helm up or 
 down — haul out the spanker — brace up, 
 and haul aft the jib-sheet, as she comes too ; shoot across until clear 
 of danger, when put the helm up, brail up the spanker, shiver 
 the after yards, and when before the wind, brail up the jib. If 
 in standing across, she should get too near the shore — get her on 
 the othc ack, by wearing or box-hauling. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. IQ^ 
 
 284.— DRIVING BROADSIDE-TO. 
 
 Get uhdei-weigh, and bring her by the wind under the jib, 
 topsails, and spanker ; shiver the topsails ; when filled, stand on 
 to the middle of the channel ; brail up the jib and spanker, and 
 let her drift in this situation until she falls off, which she will 
 soon do, owing to her greatej- immersion aft than forward, which 
 will drift her stern farther to windward. Haul out the spanker 
 and if this is insufficient, back the mizen-topsail ; if she still falls 
 off, back the main also, both square aback, and if she should get 
 ^ stern-board, put the helm hard a-weather ; should she come-to 
 again, shiver the topsails, and brail up the spanker, letting her 
 drift as before. 
 
 285.— SECURING THE SHIP FOR SEA. 
 
 Take the departure, give the course, and make sail. Beat to 
 quarters — examine the magazine — load, shot, and secure the 
 guns — see that all the gear of the guns is ready for service, and 
 secured. Fill the shot-boxes, rack, and wad-nets — get the anchors 
 on the bows, and lash them — unbend the cable and buoy-ropes ; 
 if clean and dry, pay them below ; also the messenger, hawsers, 
 stoppers and nippers, and cable-mats, put in the buckles — unreeve, 
 cat and fish, and coil them away below. Get chafing-mats on 
 the yards and rigging — see the booms and boats secured, pumps 
 in good order, and the gratings and tarpaulins ready for putting 
 on. Overhaul the storm-staysail gear, see everything ready for 
 service, and stow it below again. 
 
 286.— STOWING THE ANCHORS FOR SEA. 
 
 The anchors being catted and fished, clap a stout tackle on 
 them and cat-head stoppers ; pass a good lashing through the 
 ring and over the cat-head — expend the stopper in the same way. 
 Hook the pendant-tackle to a strap around the shank — weigh the 
 crown, and bouse the fluke into the bill-port bj a thwartship 
 tackle ; having another tackle clapt on the end of the anchor-stock 
 which is uppermost, getting it as close to the side as the stock 
 will permit ; pass stout shank-lashings also around the stock and 
 cat-head. Unbend the cable and buoy-rope. 
 
164 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Note.— The waist-anchors are securely stowed when they are 
 first got on boai-d. Some ships use preventer lashings and jump- 
 ers in bad weather, when the ship is lurching in a heavy sea, or 
 when liable to ship seas in the waist. 
 
 287.— SETTING TOPGALLANT SAILS— BLOWING 
 FEESH. 
 
 Point the yaids to the wind, 
 and loose the sails ; sheet home 
 first to leeward, and then to wind- 
 ward — having a hand to leeward 
 to light the foot over the topmast 
 stay ; hoist away, trim the yards, 
 and haul taut the bow-lines. 
 
 Note. — In setting topgallant 
 sails over single-reefed topsails, 
 see that the sheets are out 
 square alike. 
 
 288.— SETTING COUKSES. 
 
 Moderate weather. — Man the fore and main-tacks and sheets, 
 attend the rigging — have hands on the lower yards to overhaul 
 it — haul aboard — check the top bow-lines, weather lower lifts, and 
 
OR VOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 165 
 
 a little of the lee-main-brace — avast the sheets ; get the tucks 
 close down, and then haul aft the sheets — ^haul taut the main- 
 brace, lifts, trusses, and bowlines. 
 
 Blowing fresh. — Man well the sheets, overhaul the leech-lines 
 and lee-bunt-iines ; ease down the lee-clew-garnet, slack top 
 bowlines, lower lifts, and lee-main-braces, until the tacks are 
 down ; then haul aft the sheets, haul taut the lee-main-brace, 
 weather lifts and bow-lines, and, if necessary, hook and haul taut 
 the rolling-tackle, to ease the trusses. 
 
 289.— SETTING THE SPANKER. 
 
 Top-up the boom, overhaul lee-topping-lifts, attend the sheets 
 and weather-guy ; haul over the lee-guy, and trim the boom — 
 man the outhaul and attend the brails and vangs— ^let go the 
 brails, haul out and steady the gaff by the vangs. 
 
 Note. — The weather-vang should never be hauled, or boused 
 too taut, as it may be the means of carrying away the gaff, 
 especially when using trysails as storm-sails. 
 
 290.— SETTING THE JIB. 
 
 Cant ^ the spritsail- yard to 
 steady the boom ; man the hal- 
 liards arid sheet — see the down- 
 haul and brails clear, take in the 
 slack of the slieet to steady the 
 sail; "hoist away;" and as the 
 sail goes up, ease off the sheet — 
 when taut up, haul aft the sheet 
 
Ifi5 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 391.— SETTING LOWER STUDDING-SAILS. 
 
 When the boom is out or a-thwartships, and trimmed with the 
 fo e yard, the outer halliards and outhauler are to be well man- 
 n d, taking in the slack of the inner halliards, as the sail goes 
 o.er the gunwale, and ultimately reaches its destined height. 
 In running away with the lower halliards, care must be taken 
 that the yard be not brought up with a jerk, against the topmast 
 studding-sail boom ; by this sudden jerk booms are liable to be 
 sprung. 
 
 392.— SHIFTING A COURSE AT SEA. 
 
 Moderate weather.— la. shifting a course at sea, with the 
 watch, and with time to prepare everything for a smart and 
 pretty evolution — ^get the spare sail up from below, and first of 
 all stretched across the deck. Then, the course being set, stop 
 per the (tack aad sheet) clews, and unbend tacks, sheets, clew- 
 garnets, and leech-lines, bending them forthwith to the spare 
 sail ; and, when done, untoggle the bowlines, and send the hands 
 aloft — trice up, lay out, cast off robins and earings, and make 
 the two midship robins fast to the bunt-lines — ease in the earings 
 together, and make them also fast to the buntlines a-midships. 
 Lower the sail by the bunt-lines, and gather it in by hand. Un- 
 bend the bunt-lines, bend them to the spare sail, and take out 
 the yard-ropes. 
 
 Divide the watch to the yard-ropes, bunt-lines and clew-gar- 
 nets, and haul taut; haul out and up all together — hands aloft 
 briag-to, and when brought-to, haul on board. 
 
 Blowing fresh. — First haul the sail up and furl it ; then pro- 
 ceed to make fast the midship robins and earings (when cast off") 
 to the bunt-lines, and to lower the sail down by the clew-garnets, 
 as well as buntlines. 
 
 Note. — In this case the weather-tack and sheet is of much use 
 ui hauling the sail in as it comes down. 
 
oil YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 167 
 
 293.— TAKING IN A COUESE IN A GALE OP WIND. 
 
 Steady the yard as securely as possible, man the clew-garnets, 
 bunt-lines, and leech-lines ; ease away the tack and bow-line-r- 
 haul up to windward, ease off the sheet, haul up, get the sail 
 olose to the yard, and furl it. 
 
 It is a common practice in clewing-up a course, to let go ttie 
 bowline upon starling the tack. Neither the tack nor the bow- 
 hne should be let go, but each eased off handsomely by hand. 
 By the adoption of this plan, the sail will bag less to leeward, 
 and the weather-clew can be hauled up with greater ease; but 
 both buntlines should be well manned, and even better manned, 
 than the weather clew-garnet. When the latter gear is well up, 
 walk away with the clew-garnet, easing steadily the sheet. But 
 all these precautions will be of little avail, unless there be a good 
 preventer-brace upon the lower yard ; or else the yard tackle be 
 hooked to act as such, and brought sufficiently aft to prevent the 
 tackle bringing too great a strain in an up-and-down position 
 upon the upper yard-arms. 
 
 294.— TAKING IN A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND. 
 
 Steady well the topsail and lower yards, rounding in the wea- 
 ther topsail brace as much as possible. Man the clewlines and 
 buntlines ; attend the sheets and bowlines ; clew up the lee-sheet, 
 and haul up the buntline. If to save the yard, haul up to lee- 
 ward first, point the yard to the wind, and steady it again ; lay 
 out and furl the sail. 
 
 There appears to be still a dispute among seamen as to the 
 preferable method of effecting this service. 
 
 When the mast is not considered in danger, and the object be 
 to s.ave the sail, or to ease the ship, the weather clew may be first 
 lifted. But before starting the weather sheet, it would be well to 
 ease first a few feet of the ^ee-sheet, in order to lessen the labor 
 of rounding in the weather brace. So soon as the lee-sheet be suffi- 
 ciently eased to admit of the yard coming in with the weather 
 brace, and both buntlines be as well manned as the weather 
 clewUne. tlie weather sheet may be then eased off, and the wea- 
 ther cle vhne hauled up, with every prospect of saving the sail. 
 
 If there be plenty of sea room, and the ship can be kept away, 
 some officers recommend the practice of bringing the wind abafl 
 the beam, and then hauling up the lee-clewline first— tak:m% 
 the precaution to have both buntlines well manned. When this 
 operation is effected, the weather clewline may be hauled up, 
 
168 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 rounding the brace in, as the ship is again giadually brought to 
 the wind. It will require particular attention to the helm when 
 hauUng up the weather clewline, though with judicious manage- 
 ment, the helm alone is sufficient to spill the sail. 
 
 295.— TAKING IN TOP-GALLANT SAILS. 
 
 Man the topgallant clewlines ; lay aloft, and stand by to furl 
 the sail ; attend the braces, bowlines, sheets, and halliards ; 
 round in the weather braces, ease away the lee-sheet and hal- 
 liards ; " lower away ;" ease away the weather sheet, clew up, 
 haul up the buntlines ; steady the yard, lay out and furl the sail. 
 
 296.— TAKING IN A SPANKER. 
 
 Have the brails and weather vang well manned; attend the 
 outhaul and lee vang ; ease away the outhaul ; haul over on the 
 weather vang ; brail up to leeward ; ease off the sheet ; haul 
 taut the weather brails ; pass the fool gaskets ; steady the gaff, 
 and crutch the boom. 
 
 297.— SETTING A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL. 
 
 Point the yard to the wind, and biace the lower yard a little 
 sharper than the topsail yard. Man the sheets, attend the bunt- 
 lines, and loose the sail ; overhaul the lee-buntline, ease down 
 the lee-clewlines, and haul home the lee-sheet ; ease off the weather 
 buntline ; at the same time slack down the weather clewhne, and 
 haul home the weather sheet. Hoist the yard up clear of the 
 cap ; brace up, and haul the bowline ; steady the lower and top- 
 sail yards with the braces and rolling-tackles. 
 
 Note. — ^It must be remembered that a close reefed topsail will 
 not sheet close home, as the yard is to hoist clear of the cap. 
 
 298.— A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL SPLITS. 
 
 Clew up the sail and steady the yard ; cast off some of the rope- 
 bands, so as to pass stops around the sail to secure it. Unbend 
 ihe sheets, bowlines, and lee-buntlines ; unreeve lee-clewline and 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 169 
 
 reef-tackle ; bend the weathei- buntline round the sail, and make 
 the lee-earing fast to the buntline; hook a burton to a strap 
 round the sail, ca^t off all the rope-bands, and lower away ; ease 
 away the weather earing and lower the sail on deck. Stretch 
 along the new sail, overhaul it, then reef the sail at the fool, com- 
 mencing at the close reef, and taking in each of the three lower 
 reefs separately ; then bight it down, and send it aloft, as describ- 
 ed before, observing to use the burtons before all. Reeve and 
 bend the gear, stopping the head of the sail to the buntlin^s ; 
 have yard-jiggers hooked to bring the sail to the yard — pass the 
 earings and rope-bands, in the same manner ; bring the first reef 
 to the yard, cast out the other reef, haul up the sail; then bring 
 the reefs to the yard alternately, after which set the sail as before. 
 
 299.— A JIB SPLITS. 
 
 Mind the weather helm, haul the sail down, and hoist the fore- 
 topmast-staysail. Hitch the downhaul around the body of the 
 sail, and also pass stops around it — take the end of a rope from 
 -the forcastle, and bend it on to haul in by. Turn out the jib- 
 stays, bend a line on to the end and unreeve it — haul taut the 
 halliards — ease off the downhaul, and haul in. Get up, and 
 overhaul the spare sails ; seize on the sheet, bend the halliards 
 and downhaul — stop the sail, and haul out by the downhaul and 
 halliards — reeve the jib-stay, turn it in, and set it up ; pass the 
 tack-lashings, reeve the brails, set the jib, and haul down the 
 staysail. 
 
 30O.— TO WEAR SHIP UNDER CLOSE-REEFED MAIN- 
 TOPSAIL AND STORM-STAYSAILS. 
 
 Call all hands " wear ship," and station them ; have lifts, trusses, 
 and rolling-tackles attended, so the yard and topmast may be well 
 supported in the heavy rolling which they are likely to experi- 
 exice. Haul down the mizen storm-staysail, and when she falls 
 off, up helm ; ease off the main storm-staysail sheet, and brace 
 in the main and cross-jack yards ; at the same time taking care 
 to keep the maintopsail full, to preserve the head-way, and to 
 keep her a-head of the sea ; also to keep it from splitting. When 
 the wind is on the quarter, haul down the main storm-staysail, 
 and shift over the sheet ; when before the wind, right the helm, 
 ,and square the head yards; shift over the fore storm-staysail 
 sheet ; watch for a smooth time to bring-her-to ; then ease down 
 
170 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 the helm, hoist the mizen storm-staysail, and when the wind is 
 on the quarter, brace up the yards, hoist the main storm-staysail, 
 haul aft the foi'e storm-staysail sheet, meet her with the helm, 
 trim the sails, and haul the maintop-bowline. 
 
 301.— WEARING UNDER A MAINSAIL. 
 
 Make fast a hawser to the sliags of the main yard, take it 
 down forward of the sail, haul it well taut, and belay it to the 
 topsail sheet bitts. Call all hands, and station them as in the last 
 case ; take advantage of her falling off to put the helm up. 
 Ease off the main sheet, and gather in the lee tack, using the 
 yards as in ordinary cases. Should she not go off, send down 
 the cross-jack yard, and mizentopsail yard ; house the topmast, 
 and get a drag over the lee quarter, after which proceed as before 
 in bracing the yards, and bring by the wind. 
 
 302 — WEARING UNDER BARE POLES. 
 
 Send down the after yards and mizen topmast, and bend a 
 hawser to it in-board. Send men in the weather fore rigging 
 with tarpaulins ; up helm, and make use of the yards as usual. 
 
 If she should not go off, it will be necessary, as a last resort, to 
 cut away the mizen mast, veer away the hawser, and use the 
 mizen topmast as a drag to assist in wearing. 
 
 303.— CUTTING AWAY THE MASTS. 
 
 Clear away all the running rigging attached to the mast, cut 
 away the lanyards of the lee rigging ; then the lanyards of the 
 stays and weather rigging. 
 
 304.— LAYING-TO UNDER LOWER STAYSAILS, WEAR 
 
 SHIP. 
 
 If it does not blow too fresh, the close-reefed mainsail may be 
 set, as some lofty sail is necessary, to prevent the ship from being 
 pooped ; then proceed as in veering under bare poles. If she 
 should not go off, clap a lashing round the bunt of the foresail, 
 and set the weather goose-wing. Should she still not go off 
 send down the after yards and mizen topmast, making a drag of 
 them. If they have no effect, cut away the mizen mast. 
 
PART V. 
 
 305.— PRECAUTIONS FOR SCUDDING. 
 
 When scudding in a heavy gale of wind, care should be taken 
 that sufficient of lofty sail be carried on the vessel, to keep her 
 freely and fairly before the sea. A ship will scud better with the 
 sea right aft, than quartering. With a heavy sea, the danger to 
 be apprehended is, that the wave traveling faster than the ship, 
 may overtake and break over her. To avoid this, and diminish 
 its danger, some such sail as a close-reefed topsail or foresail is 
 generally kept set as long as possible ; but there are times when 
 the foresail is not the best suited, nor the safest for scudding. 
 Some ships that steer badly, and manifest an inclination to yaw, 
 will be more steadily steered, and easier managed when scudding 
 under the fore-topsail and fore-staysail. Should the ship happen 
 to broach-to, the foresail, in such a perilous situation, is an un- 
 wieldy and unmanageable sail to clew up ; and when the sea 
 strikes the ship on the quarter, and causes her head to round-to 
 in the direction ot the wind, the main-topsail tends to assist the 
 sea in producing this dangerous movement ; whereas, the fore- 
 staysail, together with the fore-topsail, produces the contrary effect. 
 
 It is deeply laden ships that are most liable to get pooped ; in 
 which circumstance, a skilful foresight must be exercised in 
 lightening them. 
 
 Relieving-tackles should be hooked, and hands stationed to at- 
 tend them ; spare tiller and rudder-chocks at hand, and perfectly 
 ready for use ; for, if the ship should get pooped with a heavy 
 sea, the tiller is likely to get snapped, the ship to broach-to, and 
 the rudder, if not quickly secured, to be unhung, and after 
 damaging the stern, to be lost. Wreck then almost immediately 
 follows. 
 
 When using the foresail, a tackle hooked to the lee fore-tack 
 would be of service in filling the sail. 
 
J7'2 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR: 
 
 306.— SCUDDING.— A SHIP BROACHES-TO. 
 
 Meet her with the helm, and lee head braces, if necessary ; 
 shiver the after yai'ds ; should she still come-to, and the sails are 
 taken aback, brace about the head yards, and if necessary, use 
 the helm. If she should get too much stern-board in faUing off, 
 haul up the foresail, and pay her off with the fore storm-staysail ; 
 fill the after yards as soon as possible, to gather headway, and 
 when she has fallen off sufficiently, brace about the head yards, 
 and trim as before. 
 
 Note. — As in scudding, the safety of the ship depends entirely 
 upon the steering, the greatest care should be taken that a 
 steady and expert helmsman is stationed at the wheel, and that 
 when his " trick" is out, and his " relief" arrives to take his place, 
 that he resigns not his hand at the helm, until his successor is 
 in full possession of the easiest method of steering the ship. 
 The officer of the deck should also direct a compass to be placed 
 in the gun-room, and be cautious that a competent seaman ia 
 there to attend the relieving tackles, and watch closely the steer- 
 age of the ship by the compass-card. 
 
 In frigates, and particularly flushed-decked vessels, whose bin- 
 nacle-lights are liable to be extinguished by the wind, precaution 
 should be taken that lighted lanterns are kept in readiness to 
 supply the place of the blown-out lights. On dark and starless 
 nights, when the steersman has no other guide to govern his steer- 
 age than the compass-card, it is of the utmost importance that 
 attention should be paid to this particular ; as in a number of in- 
 stances the accident of broaching-to may be traced to the " blow- 
 ing out" of the binnacle lights, and carelessness of the helms- 
 man. It requires a quick, small hel'm to steer a ship when scud- 
 ding. 
 
 307.— SCUDDING.— BROUGHT BY THE LEE. 
 
 A ship is said to be "brought by the lee" when struck aback 
 by a change of wind. If she has headway, which will probably 
 be the case, put the helm a-weather, but if she has sternway, 
 the contrary. Brace round the after yards, and when they are 
 full, the head ones. This is the principle of tacking, but it is not 
 thought as well when scudding in a gale, as the ship might get 
 too rapid sternway, which would be dangerous in a heavy sea. 
 As the object is to preserve the headway, the yards are braced 
 round as soon as possible. If scudding under the main-topsail, 
 and it becomes necessary to reduce sail, take in the fore-topsail, 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. I73 
 
 for the main being nearer the centre of gravity, has less tendency 
 to bury the ship, and she is consequently more easily steered. 
 
 When scudding tinder the main-topsail and foresail, the ship 
 is to be brought by the wind, and she should have a tendency to 
 gripe, keep the foresail on her ; but if otherwise, take in the fore- 
 sail, and set the fore storm-staysail ; brace up the head yards, 
 then the after ones. Watch for a smooth time, and ease down 
 ♦he helm, taking care to meet her in due time. 
 
 Tl^p reason for bracing up the head yards before luffing, is, in 
 ficudding the ship has a rapid headway, and will mind the helm 
 very quickly ; moreover, the sea acting with violence on the 
 quarter, will throw her up into the wind, and unless the head 
 yards are braced up so as to prevent that, she will be in the same 
 situation as if she had broached-to. 
 
 308.— HEAVING-TO. 
 
 Having determined from the known quality of the ship, what 
 sail would be best to heave^to under ; bring by the wind as in 
 the previous subject. If intending to lay-to under a main-topsail, 
 when by the wind, haul up and furl the foresail, down foretop- 
 mast-staysail ; if under lower-staysails, hoist them ; at the same 
 time taking in the foresail and main-topsail. 
 
 The helm is kept a-lee while laying-to, but not lashed down, 
 it being considered best to have a little steerage-way on. 
 
 jsfote. — ^It is best to bring by the wind under the square-sails, as 
 the sLip is more under command than she would be if they were 
 furled. 
 
 309.— TAKING IN A LOWEE STUDDING-SAIL— BLOW- 
 ING FRESH. 
 
 This is a much nicer operation than young officers generally are 
 inclined to admit, and unless executed with caution and skill on 
 the part of the officer "carrying on the duty" on deck, the proba- 
 bility is, the topmast studding-sail boom will snap short m the 
 iron, and the sail, swinging-boom gear and all, will have to 
 be recorded in the log as "expended." When not sailing in a 
 squadron, and the yawing of the ship be a matter of minor im- 
 portance, the officer of the watch is recommended to proceed as 
 
 follows : — , , J 1 . u- 
 
 Place a steady helmsman at the wheel, and stand close to him ; 
 man well the sheet, and lead it well aft along the deck ; also see 
 
jw^ THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 that Steady hands attend the taok and guys When perfectly 
 prepared, dhect the helmsman with a "small helm," to br mg 
 the wind gradually on the opposite quarter, and the moment the 
 body of the sail begins to lose the breeze, and the canvass m- 
 clines to shiver, lower the outer haUiards, ease the tack, and haul 
 in on the sheet as rapidly as possible, lowering the mner halliards 
 at the same time. 
 
 iVoife.— More booms are sprung, and even snapped shorten the 
 iron, from the sudden jerk produced by lowering the lower hal- 
 liards, when the sail is straining and bellying to the breeze, than 
 by even carrying a powerful press of canvass. And here it may 
 be well to impress upon the mind of the young seaman, that a 
 judicious management of the helm, in almost every situation 
 in which it can be placed, will not only aid the physical strength 
 employed, but also greatly facilitate the service sought. 
 
 310.— TO UNBEND A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND. 
 
 Those who know the value of minutes to men perched aloft 
 in a perilous position, will adopt that method which will event- 
 ually cost the least time and trouble. The sail should be first 
 furled, then detached from the yard, and sent down on deck 
 (slung amidships) by the long tackle* hooked at the topmast-head, 
 and steadied forward clear of the top-rim by the weather or lee 
 bowline, according to the side on which the sail is to be sent 
 down. (See 298). 
 
 Should the ship be rolling or pitching to any extent, and it is 
 not deemed prudent to lower the furled sail " before all, " the sail 
 may be sent down through lubber's hole. This method will de- 
 pend entirely upon the motion of the ship. 
 
 311.— SECURING IN A GALE. 
 
 See that the yards which have sails set upon them are not un- 
 necessarily sharp up ; that the yards whose sails are furled are 
 hoisted clear of the caps; that the runners and tacklesiare up in 
 good time ; that all unnecessary strain is taken off the rigging ; 
 and that mats are carefully placed wherever a chafe is likely to 
 occur, such as at the bunts of the furled sails, and at the lee 
 quarters of the yards, which are braced up against the rigging. 
 
 See also that the fore and main sheets, if set, be checked a 
 
 ♦ Generally called the top-burton. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. I75 
 
 little ; the weather lifts and trusses well up and taut ; jiggers on 
 topsail lifts, and studding-sails out of the rigging ; anchors and 
 guns properly secured ; and in a small vessel, the hatches bat- 
 tened down, extra on boats, spare spars, <fcc., &c. 
 
 312.— PREPAKATIONS FOR A HUREICANE AT SEA. 
 
 Endeavor to get sea room ; if you have it, run before the wind. 
 The captain and first officer to cunn the ship ; two or three of 
 the best men to steer ; the master to keep the time, and the 
 courses steered, and have the ship's place kept worked up. 
 
 Previous to its coming on, have a life-line set up on each side 
 of the deck. Furl all sails, and secure them with studding-sail 
 tacks as well as long gaskets ; batten down the hatches, and 
 have the relieving tackles on the tiller ; down topgallant-yards, 
 and send topgallant-masts on deck, and flying jib-boom in. 
 Clear the tops ; gaffs down ; rudder-chocks and spare tiller at 
 hand ; axes and hawsers at hand ; scuppers clear ; pumps ready. 
 Let each man wear a belt to secure himself if required to the 
 most convenient place ; keep the after yards square ; head yards 
 thrown forward, and have the fore-staysail set with double 
 sheets. 
 
 313.— PREPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE AT AN 
 ANCHOR, {with notes on the Barometer.) 
 
 The ship should be moored with a whole cable each way if in 
 harbor, or if in an open roadstead, veer to a hundred fathoms on 
 each anchor. 
 
 The more your berth is out of the way of other ships, the bet- 
 ter, as vessels driving, or getting adrift, occasion much damage to 
 those who might otherwise have held on. 
 
 If moored, the sheet cable to be bent and ranged, and the an- 
 chor let go, and veer on the bowers to the clinches. 
 
 All the ground tackle you have should be used. Have a shackle 
 abaft the foremost stopper, on each cable, ready for slipping if ab- 
 solutely necessary, to prevent swamping, or from other causes. 
 
 Batter down fore and aft. 
 
 Down topgallant yards and masts. 
 
 If time, unbend sails (topsails and courses, I mean). 
 
 Strike lower-yards and topmasts. 
 
 Get yards as much fore and aft as possible. 
 
176 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Jib-boom eased in. 
 
 Keep try-sails and fore stay-sail bent, and the former reefed. 
 Unreeve the running rigging, that nothing may be aloft to hold 
 the wind. 
 
 Clear the tops. 
 
 No boats to be above the gunwale. 
 
 Axes and hawsers up ready. 
 
 If anchors drag, cut away lower masts- 
 first cut and cleared. Remember the stays. 
 
 -the rigging being 
 
 Notes and remarks on the Barometer. 
 
 
 
 
 SCALE 
 
 OP BAROMETER AT PRESENT. 
 
 ed ibr service at sea, the following would be 
 better underBtood. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 
 Inches. 
 
 
 31.0 
 
 - Very dry. 
 
 
 
 30.5 
 
 Set fair. 
 
 30.5 
 
 Very settled. 
 
 30.0 
 
 Pair. 
 
 30.0 
 
 Fine weather. 
 
 
 
 29.7 
 
 Unsettled. 
 
 29.5 
 
 Changeable. 
 
 29.5 
 
 Gale. 
 
 
 
 29.2 
 
 Storm. 
 
 29.0 
 
 Rain. 
 
 29.0 Violent storm. 
 
 28.5 
 
 Much rain. 
 
 28.5 ' Tempest. 
 
 28.0 
 
 Stormy. 
 
 
 
 When the mercury falls in the Barometer, it announces rain, or wind, 
 or in general what is called bad weather ; and, on the contrary, when it 
 rises, it announces fair weather. 
 
 When the mercury falls in frosty weather, either snow, or a thaw may 
 be expected ; but if it rises in the winter with a north or east wind, it gen- 
 erally forebodes a frost. 
 
 If tlie mercury sinks slowly, we may expect rain, which will probably be 
 of some continuance; but if it rises gradually, we may expect fine weather 
 that will be lasting. 
 
 When the Barometer is fluctuating, risin,/ and falling suddenly, the 
 weather may be expected to be like it— changeable. 
 
 When the mercury falls very low, there will be much rain ; but if its 
 fell is low and sudden, a high wind frequently follows. 
 
 When an extraordinary fall of the mercury happens, without any re- 
 markable change near at hand, there is some probability of a storm at a 
 distance. •* 
 
 In very warm weather the fall of the mercury indicates thunder. 
 
 The Barometer will descend sometimes as an indication of wind onlv 
 and sometimes rise when the wind is to the north or east. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. X77 
 
 A north-east wind generally causes the Barometer to rise, and it is gen- 
 erally low with a south-west wind. 
 
 An extraordinary fall of the mercury will sometimes take place in sum- 
 mer previous to heavy showers, attended with thunder ; but in spring, au- 
 tumn, and winter, it indicates violent winds. 
 
 The mercury is higher in cold than in warm weather, and lower at noon 
 and midnight than at any other period of the day. 
 
 The mercury generally falls at the approach of new and full moon, and 
 rises at the quadratures. 
 
 Before high tides, thpre is almost always a great fall of the mercury ; 
 this takes place of'tener at the full than at the new moon. 
 
 The greatest changes of the Barometer commonly take place during 
 clear weather with a north wind, and the smallest risings during cloudy, 
 rainy, or windy weather, with a south or nearly south wind. 
 
 The words generally engraved on the plate of the Barometer, rathei 
 serve to mislead, than to inform ; for the changes of weather depend rather 
 on the rising and falUng of the mercury, than on its standing at any par- 
 ticular height. 
 
 When the mercury is as high as " fair," and the surface of it is concave, 
 (which is the case when it begins to descend,) it very often rains ; and on 
 the contrary, when the mercury is opposite " rain," and the surface of it is 
 convex, (which is the case when it begins to ascend,) fair weather may be 
 expected. These circumstances not being duly attended to, is the princi- 
 pal cause that many people have not a proper confidence in this instru- 
 ment. 
 
 For sea-service, it would be as well to read the Barometer off three 
 times a day at least — at 8 a. m., noon, and 3 p. m. — and oftener if bad 
 weather. 
 
 In Europe, if the alteration in the quicksilver should be in as great a 
 proportion as six-tenths of an inch to twenty-four hours, sudden but not 
 lasting changes of weather may be expected. 
 
 If the alteration should be gradual, probably in the proportion of two or 
 three-tenths to twenty-four hours, the weather indicated will be likely to 
 ast 
 
 One-fifth of the variation of the Barometer, in any climate, in twenty- 
 four hours, may be considered as an indication of sudden change. 
 
 If wind should follow rain, the wind may be expected to increase. 
 
 Ram following wind is likely to lull it, and the wind may be expected 
 to abate. 
 
 12 
 
178 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR. 
 
 314.— THE FOREMAST IS CARRIED AWAY. 
 
 Hard up the helm, brace in the after yards, hoist the mam- 
 staysail, take in after sail, and endeavor to get before the wmd ; 
 if successful, keep her so, by veering a range of cable over the 
 stern, and lashing it amidships ; if not, which is most likely to 
 be the case, and should carry away the main-topmast also, lay 
 her to under the> m^in-staysail. If the main-topmast should 
 stand, clew-up the main-topsail immediately, get the breast back- 
 stays over the topsail-yard, and set them up as far forward as 
 possible, by means of tackles. Bend hawsers on the. wreck, clear 
 it away, especially the lanyards of the lee-rigging, so as to pre- 
 serve the channels and chain-bolts, and endeavor to haul it 
 aboard. Send down the after yards and spars, and save as much 
 of the wreck as possible. Rig a jury-foremast, fitting spars and 
 sails to the best advantage ; when the jury-mast is rigged, reeve 
 a main-topmast stay, of a hawser, and take the breast-backstays 
 aft again, after which cut clear of the wreck, if not required. 
 
 315.— TO RIG A JURY-MAST. 
 
 Take a spare spar, the largest on board, a main-topmast for 
 instance, and launch the head over the night-heads, the heel 
 resting against the stump of the old mast ; put on the cross-trees 
 and bolsters, fit the rigging and stays fi-om hawsers, and hook a 
 couple of tackles from the jury-mast head — which take to the 
 sides and haul taut ; hook another, which take well aft ; lash the 
 heel of the stump to prevent slipping, and raise the mast with 
 the after purchase, tending the stays and pendant-tackles ; when 
 up, reeve the lanyards, set up the rigging and stays. Cleet and 
 lash the heel securely. Ship the cap, send up a topgallant-mast 
 for a topmast, fit a topsail yard for a lower yaad, and a topgal- 
 lant yard for a topsail yard, and so on. 
 
 316.— ACCIDENTS TO TILLER. 
 
 In the event of losing a mast. 
 
 Should the tiller break in th6 rudder head, the rudder must 
 immediately be chocked, that its stump may be .taken out and 
 the spare tiller fitted, which, together with the chock, should al- 
 ways be placed in readiness for immediate use. While the rud- 
 der is useless, the ship must be hove-to till it is repaired, or some 
 3ontrivance prepared to supply its place. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. I79 
 
 317— THE MAIN-MAST IS CAEEIED AWAY. 
 
 Haid-up the helm, secure the mizen topmast if it still stands, 
 clear the wreck, save as much as possible, and rig a jury main- 
 mast, as above. 
 
 318.— THE BOWSPRIT IS CARKIED AWAY. 
 
 Hard-up the helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, 
 and get the ship before the wind ; take the fore-topmast breast- 
 backstays forward over the top-sail yard, hook the pendant tack- 
 les and set them up to the cat-heads ; unreeve the main-topmast 
 and spring-stays, and set them up to the foretopsail sheet bitts ; 
 hitch a hawser to the foretopmast head, take this in through one 
 of the hawse-holeii, and set it up on the gun-deck. While this is 
 performing, let some hands be reducing sail, sending down top- 
 gallant yards and masts if they are aloft, and clearing the wreck; 
 rig a jury-bowsprit of a spare main-topmast or a jib-boom. 
 
 319.— A TOPMAST IS CARRIED AWAY. 
 
 , Get the ship before the wind immediately, and reduce sail ; 
 hook the top-blocks and reeve hawsers through them ; bend the 
 lee one to the topsail-yard, which is probably hanging to leeward 
 of the topmast, with the wreck. Clew up the topsail if practicia- 
 ble, and cut the parrel if it can be got at. The yard now hangs 
 clear of the topmast ; bend the weather hawser to the wreck of 
 the topmast ; nave guys from the weather side of the deck — clear 
 away the lanyards of the rigging and stays, also the rigging lead- 
 ing to the topmast head, and send it down on deck ; hook the 
 }'ard-tackles, slack the braces and trusses, bouse the lower yards 
 forward, and send down the stump ; get the topsail-yard down in 
 the lee-gangway, and repair its damages while the spare topmast 
 is got aloft and secured by the old rigging ; send aloft the yard, 
 set the topsails, and bring her to her course again. 
 
 320.— THE JIB-BOOM IS CARRIED AWAY. 
 
 Mind the weather helm, hoist the foretopmast-staysail, and 
 get in the wreck by the fore pendant-tackles, hooked to the fore- 
 stay ; reeve a heel-rope and get in the stump ; pomt another boom, 
 and rig it with the old rigging, if sound, if not, with spare ropes 
 or hawsers. 
 
180 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 321.— THE FOREMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE 
 HOUNDS OR BIBBS. 
 
 Get the ship before the wind immediately, reduce sail, and get 
 all the strain off the foremast ; secure the main-topmast. 
 
 Send down topgallant yards and masts ; hook the jeers, 
 and settle the fore yard ; hook top-blocks, reeve top-pendants 
 and house topmasts, allowing the heel to come considerably 
 below the defect ; fish the foremast with side fishes, and the heel 
 of the topmast, wedging the lashings. Clap a lashing around 
 the doublings of the mast-head, having chocks between ; keep the 
 pendant-tackles rove, turn in the rigging afresh, and set it up ; 
 wedge the topmast in the cap, and sway the fore yard close up 
 to the heel of the topmast ; reef the head sails to diminish the 
 strain if required. 
 
 322.— THE FOREMAST AND BOWSPRIT CARRIED 
 AWAY. 
 
 Proceed as in 314, the remarks being applied to the present 
 case ; lay-to under the main-staysail, to leeward of the wreck, and 
 repair damages on board, in the best possible manner ; rig a jury 
 foremast and bowsprit, and then cut clear, having saved as many 
 spars and sails, and as much rigging as possible ; if the ship lays 
 easily by the wreck, it would probably be well to ride by it, until 
 the gale abates. If it is absolutely necessary to veer, it might be 
 done as before mentioned, with the assistance of the mainsail, 
 making use of the wreck as a drag, by taking the hawser as 
 a spring to the quarter. 
 
 323.— THE BOWSPRIT IS SPRUNG. 
 
 Up helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, and get the 
 ship before the wind ; haul down the head sails, come up the main 
 topmast stays, and set them up on deck ; get the fore-topmast 
 breast-backstays forward, hook the fore pendant tackles, and set 
 them up to the cat-head ; come up all the head stays, and rig in 
 the head booms ; send down upper yards and raasts, take the fore- 
 topmast stays through the hawse-hole, and set them up. 
 
 Note. — All strain now being off the bowsprit, fish it with the 
 regular fishes ; if there are none on board, use the jib-boom ; if 
 thought sufficiently strong to bear the strain of the head stays, 
 get them in their proper places, but if not, get stays out merely 
 to make sail. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 181 
 
 324.^A TOPMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE LOWER CAP, 
 
 Get the ship before the wind and reduce sail ; if a spare topmast 
 is not to be had, the old one may be housed far enough to allow 
 the spring to come some feet below the cap, setting the lower 
 yard as in the last case ; fit a larger chock between the topmast 
 and lowermast head, and clap stout lashings around, above, and 
 below the defect part, wedging them well ; reef the foresail so that 
 it can be set with the yard in its present place, and also the top- 
 sail, to lessen the strain on the weak spar. 
 
 iVbfe.— Sheep-shank the rigging, if required, before setting up. 
 
 325.— TO SEND ALOFT A TOPMAST, AND A HEAVY 
 
 SEA ON. 
 
 After the topmast is pointed and rigged, hook the burtons to 
 Btout strops, at the rim of the top on each side ; hitch hawsers to 
 the mast-head, leading one through a larger block at the fore- 
 topmast head, and another aft through one at the mizen ; haul 
 the burtons and hawsers taut ; sway aloft the topmast, slacking 
 up as it goes aloft ; when fidded, steady, the topmast until the 
 rigging and stays are set up. 
 
 326.— THE GAMMONING CARRIED AWAY. 
 
 Proceed as in 323, until all strain is off the bowsprit ; put a 
 stout chock on the bowsprit, and pass the end of the messenger 
 out of a hawse-hole, over the chock, in through the other hawse- 
 hole, and bitt it ; take the other end to the capstan, and get the 
 bowsprit well down in its bed by the messenger' and bob-stays ; 
 come up the old gammoning, and pass a new one. 
 
 mte.— lion gammonings are used for all vessels, by new regu- 
 lation. {See Rigging Table.) 
 
 327.— A LOWER CAP SPLITS. 
 
 Take all sail off the mast, pass a stout lashing arouqd the 
 topmast and lower mast-head, which wedge; after which woold 
 and wedge the cap. 
 
jg2 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 328.— THE TRESTLE-TKEES AKE SPRUNG. 
 
 Get the ship before the wind, take all sail off the mast, send 
 down topgallant yards and masts, housing the others ; hook the 
 top-blocks, reeve top-pendants, hook top-tackles, and bouse them 
 well taut, taking all strain off the fid ; pass several stout lash- 
 ings around the heel of the topmast and lower mast-head, 
 cleating them to prevent their slipping; make sail as the mast 
 will bear. 
 
 f 
 
 329.— A LOWER YARD IS CARRIED AWAY IN THE 
 
 SLINGS. 
 
 If the fore-yard, get the ship before the wind, haul up the 
 foresail, clew up the topsail, take in all sail on the mizen-mast, 
 unreeve the foretopsail sheets and board them on deck; bring her 
 on your course again, and haul the bowlines. 
 
 If a main-yard, keep on the course, haul up the mainsail, clew 
 up the topsail, unreeve the sheets, board them on deck, and haul 
 the bowlines well out ; having proceeded thus far, get stout strops 
 around the inner quarter of the yard, and hook tlie pendant- 
 tackles to bolts in the lower cap, and these strops ; if the pendant- 
 tackles are not at hand, use the burtons. 
 
 Lash the jear-blocks, reeve the jears, and send the yard down 
 by the jears, lifts, and pendant-tackles ; fish the lower yards im- 
 mediately, if it can be done ; if it cannot, rig a topsail yard for a 
 lower yard. 
 
 330.— A TOPSAIL YARD IS CARRIED AWAY. 
 
 If it is the fore, reduce after sail ; mind the weather helm, and 
 keep the ship on her course. If it is the main, stand on, clev/ up 
 the sail, unbend it, and get it into the top the best manner possi- 
 ble. Get a strop around the topmast-head, above the eyes of the 
 rigging, to which hook a large single block, and reeve a hawser 
 through it. If the yard is completely broken off, bend the haw- 
 ser which is not secured by the parrel, bend on guys, and send it 
 down ; then send down the other piece. If it still remains together, 
 bend pn the slings, stop out to leeward, have a tripping line and 
 rolling ropes, and get it fore and aft on deck ; take off all the old 
 rigging, which put on to the spare yard in the chains ; then bend 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 ^83 
 
 on the hawser, sway aloft, and cross it as in fitting the ship out, 
 have rolling ropes around it as it goes aloft ; bend the topsail, 
 and set it. 
 
 331.— THE SHIP LEAKS FASTEK THAN THE PUMPS 
 CAN FREE HER. 
 
 Find out where the leak is ; thrum an old sail very thickly, 
 and have stout ropes attached to each leech ; make it up, take it 
 under the bowsprit, and get the ropes on their respective sides ; 
 heave the ship too ; when her headway eases, drop the sail over- 
 board ; after it has sunk beneath the keel, break the stops, haul 
 aft on the ropes attached to each clew; when the body of the 
 sail is over the leak, haul well taut all the ropes attached to the 
 leeches and the head, which will prevent the sail from going aft 
 when going ahead ; make sail, and continue pumping. 
 
 332.— THE PUMPS ARE CHOKED 
 Hoist them out, and clear them. 
 
 333.— A SHOT GETS LOOSE IN A GUN SECURED FOB 
 
 A GALE. 
 
 Prick the cartridge well down, and pour vinegar enough m tho 
 touch-hole to drown it. 
 
184 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 334._T0 THROW A LOWER DECK GUN OVERBOARD 
 
 Fit a chock in the port-sill, and over the pomelion of the gun, 
 to which, from the housing-bolt, hook a stout tackle ; unlash the 
 muzzle, heave up the breech, and put in the bed and coin ; un- 
 reeve the breeching, throw back the cap squares, and place cap- 
 stan bars under the breech to ease it, and prevent the gun from 
 slipping back into the carriage again ; man the side and port 
 tackles, watch the roll, trice up the port briskly, run out, and throw 
 the gun clear of the carriage, by the breech-tackles and capstan- 
 bars ; shut in the port immediately 
 
PART VI. 
 
 335.— TO TUKN KEEFS OUT OE THE TOPSAILS 
 AND COURSES. 
 
 Haul taut the reef-pendants, and set taut the lower lifts ; 
 ease off the bowlines ; ease a little of the tacks and sheets of 
 the courses, and settle a few feet of the topsail halliards ; haul 
 taut the? reef tackles and buntliaes, round in a little of the weath- 
 er braces, to clear the points of the lee-rigging ; commence cast- 
 ing off the points of the bunt, taking care to leave none tied, and 
 turning one reef out at a timei ; ease away both earings together ; 
 overhaul the rigging, get the tacks on board ; sheet home, hoist 
 the topsails up to a taut leech, out bowlines and make sail. 
 
 336.— THE RUDDER IS CARRIED AWAY- TO FIT 
 ANOTHER. 
 
 Man the braces immediatly ; take in after sails, and let the 
 ship run a little free ; rouse up a cable, clove-hitch a hawser over 
 the cable, and then pay it overboard ; veer away about twenty 
 fathoms, and lash it amidships on the taffrail ; lead the ends of 
 the hawsers through large blocks, lashed to the quarters, and 
 clap tackles on them ; steer the ship by this contrivance, until 
 a rudder can be constructed. (See Plate.) 
 
 Take a spare topmast, cut it the length of the rudder, enlarge 
 the fid-hole to receive the tiller, if not already large enough ; 
 take a spare cap and cut away the after part, so as to fit the 
 stern post at the waters' edge, or a little below ; pass the topmast 
 through the round hole in the cap ; take a spare jib-boom and cut 
 
185 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 it in two ; the pieces are to be bolted on abaft the topmast, aftei 
 squaring the edges which will come in contact with each other, 
 and cutting a score in the forward part of the jib-boom, next tc 
 the topmast, to allow the cap to have room to play in ; plank the 
 whole over with stout oak plank, and bolt in a fish abaft all ; 
 drive an eye-bolt into the heel of the topmast (now the head of 
 the rudder), and have kentledge attached to the other end to sink 
 t ; take an anchor-stock and square two of the edges ; cut away 
 a circular score in each, for them to join together around the top 
 mast, below the squares, and thus serve as an upper gudgeon ; 
 drive the anchor-stock hoops on the rudder-head, to prevent split- 
 ting. 
 
 Place the rudder on a stage, near the taffrail ; pass a couple 
 of hawsers aft through the hawse-holes, and secure them to the 
 heel of the rudder; have tackles on their inner ends; have two 
 more hawsers or parts of hawsers passed from forward aft, under 
 everything, one each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye-bolts 
 in the cap ; have a pendant round as described in another place ; 
 launch overboard and rouse up on the head rope ; heave in upon 
 the hawsers, and bring the rudder to the stern post., perpendic- 
 ularly ; secure the cap to the stem post and the anchor-stock, 
 around the rudder head ; ship the tiller, reeve the wheel-ropes, 
 and rouse in the cable. The kentledge may remain to keep the 
 rudder perpendicular, or may be taken off, as the case may re- 
 quire. 
 
 Note. — See improved sketch or plan of temporary rudder. 
 
 337.— A SHIP ON FIRE AT SEA. 
 
 Hard up the helm, haul up tlie com'ses, up spanker, get the 
 ship before the wind, and reduce sail to tppsails ; beat to quarters, 
 close all the ports, muster the men at their stations, call away the 
 firemen, under charge of their proper officers ; let a part fill the 
 engine and wet the sails, while the other part finds out where 
 the fire is, and endeavor to extinguish it if possible — for which 
 pmpose use bedding ; putting over the gratings and tarpaulins. 
 The gunner and his mates should be in the magazine, ready to 
 drown the powder at a moment's notice ; let the carpenters rig 
 and fetch the pumps, and the spar-deck divison clear away the 
 boats, equip them, and get them ready for hoisting out ; in the 
 above case, the fire is supposed to be below, and the helni is put 
 up, because wind is less felt ; the ports are shut in, and the tar- 
 paulins put on, as they would afford air to the fire ; and the cour- 
 ses hauled up, because they strike a current of air down the 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISl'AiNT. jgy 
 
 hatchways, and are also liable to catch. If the fire is on deck 
 and forward, keep before the wind ; if aft, haul close on a wind! 
 
 338.— A SHIP ON HEE BEAM ENDS. 
 
 When the severity of the squall is felt, hard up the helm and 
 let fly everything ; but if she goes on her beam ends before she 
 can be got off sufficiently to diminish the effects of the wind, the 
 best way will be to cut away the mizen-mast before the headway 
 ceases, which failing over the lee quarter, will act as a drag, to 
 pay her off; should she not right when before the wind, if there 
 be an anchorage, and the cable is bent, get the drag to the lee- 
 bow, by means of a spring, and rouse in; the wind acting on 
 the flat deck, and under side of the sails, will probably right her. 
 As a last resort, cut away the masts — great decision and rapidity 
 of execution is necessary, as the ship must go down a short time 
 after she goes over. 
 
 339.— WIND FREE, ALL SAIL SET, STEUGK BY A 
 SQUALL. 
 
 Up helpi, letfly the main-sheets, spanker-outhaul, staysail-sheeta 
 and halliards, royal and topgallant studding-sail-halliards, royal 
 and topgallant-sheets, and halliards ; haul up the mainsail, brail 
 up the spanker, down staysails, and order the topmen to haul in the 
 studding-sails and stow them. When before the wind, right the 
 helm, clew down the topsails, haul up the buntlines, and out reef- 
 tackles, and reef if necessary ; clear up the decks as fast as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 Note. — In ordinary cases, sheets and tacks should be eased off, 
 for if they should get foul when running through their blocks' fast, 
 spars might be endangered ; but when struck by a severe squall, 
 the effect of the sails must be diminished as soon as possible, to 
 save the masts, and pre/ent her from going over. 
 
 340.--STRUCK BY A SQUALL ON A LEE SHORE. 
 
 If sail cannot be reduced, luff-too and shake her ; fill away 
 again, gather headway, and luff again. 
 
,gg THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 341.-STEUCK BY A SQUALL UNDER WHOLE TOP- 
 SAILS AND COUESERS, 
 
 Up lielm, let fly.the topsail halliards, main-sheet, spanker out- 
 haul and lee-topsail sheets; haul up the mainsail brail up the 
 spanker, clew up the topsails to leeward, then to windward ; right 
 the helm, and reef if necessary. 
 
 343.— ON A WIND, UNDER WHOLE TOPSAILS— PART 
 THE WEATHER MAIN-TOPSAIL BRACE. 
 
 Haul up the mainsail, let go the lee main-brace, haul forward 
 on the lee-maintop-bowline, and aft on the weather main-brace ; 
 luff-too, and when the main-topsail shivers, clew it down, haul 
 up the buntlines, out reef tackles, and steady the yard by the bow- 
 line, until a new brace can be rove ; a burton might be hooked 
 to steady the yard. 
 
 343.— THE JIB-DOWNHAUL PARTS. 
 
 Untoggle the fore-topgallant-bowlines, and knot them together, 
 above the first hank, between the stay and jib-haUiards. which 
 use for a downhaul, until you reeve a new one. 
 
 344.— TO CHASE. 
 
 A vessel that chases another should have the advantage in 
 point of sailing, because if the ship chased is as good a sailer as 
 the chaser, the latter can never come up to her, if she manoeu- 
 vred equally as well. 
 
 In order to determine whether your ship sails faster than your 
 adversary, get upon the same tack, under the same sail, and keep 
 upon the same course with her ; set her exactly with a compass, 
 and if your ship sails best, the sail will soon draw a point more 
 aft; if she has the advantage she will in a short time draw more 
 forward, and if both sail equally well, she will remain at the same 
 point. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 345.— TO CHASE TO WINDWAKD. 
 
 189 
 
 
 To chase to windward, run upon the same course with the 
 enemy, until he is brought perpendicularly to the same course ; 
 when tack and continue the second board, until he is again 
 brought perpendicularly to the same course; always continue 
 this manoeuvre by tacking every time the chase is a-beam, on 
 either board, and she will come in the shortest method by your 
 superiority of sailing. Should the chase pass the point, when the 
 chase bears a-beam, he must go about with all dispatch. 
 
 Note. — The chase goes about as soon as the chase is exactly 
 a-beam, because at that time, the distance between them is the 
 least possible upon the different boards they hold. 
 
 346.— OBSERVATIONS FOR A SHIP TO WINDWARD, 
 WHICH IS CHASED. 
 
 The weather ship will always be joined, since 
 it is granted that she does not sail as well as the 
 pursuer, it will be. then to her advantage to keep 
 constantly on the sanie tack, without losing time 
 to heave about, for tacking cannot be so favora- 
 ble to her as to her adversary, whose sailing is 
 superior. 
 
190 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 If the chaser mistakingly stands on and tacks -in the wake of 
 the chase, the best course foj- the latter to pursue is to heave about 
 and pass to windward of him on the other tack, unless you sup- 
 pose your vessel would have a superiority in going large ; for if 
 the chaser persists in tacking in the wake of the other ship, the 
 chase will be much prolonged. 
 
 347,_T0 CHASE TO LEEWARD. 
 
 If the chaser keeps 
 away to cut the chase 
 off, and keeps contin- 
 ually on that course, 
 they will eventually 
 come together where 
 the two courses inter- 
 sect. This wi)^ be 
 exactly executed by 
 ; the ship in chase, if 
 ■ in the course she has 
 taken, she keeps the 
 chase continually up- 
 on the same degree of the compass as at the beginning of the pur- 
 suit. This principle applies equally to air the courses which 
 the retreating ship pursues, for if overtaken, it can only be accom- 
 plished by keeping in a straight line, if the chase takes another 
 course than that which keeps the two ships upon the same 
 point These are the only considerations to be made, and they 
 may ^ corrected, by observing the bearings by an azimuth com- 
 
 i48.— TO WINDWARD OF AN ENEMY, WITHIN PISTOL 
 SHOT. — The weather main rigging is shot away — both skips with 
 main topsails to the mast. 
 
 Up helm, fill away, and run the enemy on board, before she 
 gets headway to prevent it. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ]9] 
 
 349.— WIND ON THE QUAETEK, ALL SAIL SET- 
 BRING BY UNDER DOUBLE-REEFED TOPSAILS. 
 
 Reduce sail rfegulaily, and clew down the topsails ; luff enough 
 to reef, hoist the topsails, and haul close on a wind. 
 
 350.— WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET— 
 BRING-TO ON THE OTHER TACK, UNDER DOUBLE 
 REEFED TOPSAILS. 
 
 Reduce sail to topsails, station the 
 crew forward, with one watch of top- 
 men aloft to reef; brail up the spanker, 
 up helm, brace in, and when before 
 the wind, clew down the topsails, haul 
 out reef-tackles, and up buntlines ; let 
 the men lay out and reef; wind on the 
 quarter, brace up cross-jack yard, and 
 haul out the spanker ; as she comes-too, 
 
 brace up the fore yard, and meet her with the helm and jib-sheet 
 
 when coming-too, a good opportunity will be offered for reefing ; 
 
 when reefed, hoist away the topsails, letting the main go a-back, 
 
 the others fill. 
 
 Note. — Having a dismasted ship in tow, heave-to, make fast the 
 stream cable to the mainmast of the ship, and take it in at the 
 weather gangway, clinching it around the mainmast ; then make 
 fast a stout hawser as a spring, and snatch it to a block lashed 
 amidships on the taffrail, so that the ship may either ride on the 
 weather quarter, or be roused astern. In case of veering, rouse in 
 upon the spring, and the manoeuvre will be performed with more 
 certainty. After it is executed, the tow-rope must be shifted to 
 the opposite gangway, by means of a spring, &c. 
 
 ,351.— HOW TO GET THE ANCHORS OFF THE BOWS. 
 
 Hook the fore pendant-tackle ; single the shank-painters, and 
 set them taut with the pendant-tackles ; come up the shank-lash- 
 ings, put the shoes between the bills and bows, by capstan-bars, 
 and then by the shank-painters as far as necessary. 
 
 Single and set taut cat-head stoppers, and then unlash the 
 rings. 
 
192 THE KEDGE-ANCHORj 
 
 352.— TO ANCHOK HEAD TO WIND— WIND FBEB. 
 
 See that the officers and men are at their stations, an^ the 
 strictest silence preserved, as the ship neara hei berth ; take in 
 all the studding sails, get the burtons off the yards, and the jiggers 
 off the topgallant yaids ; send the booms and sails down from 
 aloft ; man the fore clew-garnets, buntlines and leechlines ; the 
 mainsail is hauled up as the ship is going free ; topgallant and 
 royal clewhnes : lay aloft and stand by to furl the sails snug, and 
 square the yards by the lifts and braces ; have hands by the fore 
 tack and sheet, topgallant and royal sheets, halliards, weather 
 braces, and bowlines ; up foresail, in topgallant-sails and royals ; 
 furl the sails snug, and square the yards by the lifts and braces, 
 hauling taut the halliards. Man the topsail-clewlines and bunt- 
 lines, weather braces, jib-downhaul, and spanker-outhaul ; attend 
 the sheets, halliards, and spanker-brails, ease down the helm, 
 haul down the jib, haul out the spanker, and when the topsail 
 lifts, clear away the sheets, and clew them up ; then let go the 
 halliards, clew down, and square away the yards immediately ; 
 haul aft the spanker-sheet, and when the headway ceases, stream 
 the buoy, stand clear of the cable ; when she begins to go astern, 
 let go the anchor, brail up the spanker, crotch the boom, haul 
 taut the guys, light-to the cable, as fast as she will take it, until 
 a sufficient scope is out, when stopper. Furl sails, haul taut and 
 stop in the rigging, send the boats' crews aft, to lower the boats 
 down. Let the boatswain go ahead to square the yards — clear up 
 the decks. 
 
 Note. — If in going to moor, veer out double the mooring scope, 
 and then let go the anchor ; then furl sails and heave in. 
 
 353.— TO ANCHOR ON A LEE SHORE. 
 
 The ship being on a lee shore, and no room to veer, recourse 
 must be had to letting go all the anchors. For this purpose all 
 the cables are bent and ranged, and all the anchors got ready for 
 letting go ; the weather sheet is bitted to the forward bitts. and 
 the weather bower to the after bitts, to windward ; the lee bower 
 to the forward bitts, and the lee sheet to the after ones to leeward ;' 
 no buoy rope is bent except to the weather sheet ; tho weather 
 sheet is backed by the stream, and the other anchors with kedges ; 
 see all the tiers clear, get the ship under storm-staysails, and fiirl 
 all the square sails ; hook the yard tackles ; get the lower yards 
 forward, and house topmast ; when all is ready, keep her a little 
 off, to get headway. Let go the weather sheet and stream an 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ^93 
 
 choi-s and veer away, then the weather bower and kedge; down 
 helm ; haul down fore and main storm stay-sails, and the drift 
 to leeward will carry her to the berth of the last anchor, which 
 let go ; haul down the mizen storm stay-sail, and veer away 
 an equal scope on all four cables ; observe that they will bear 
 an equal strain, and veer to a long scope, reserving sufficient to 
 freshen the nip with ;* see that the cables are well rounded 
 and watch them carefully. If she should drag, sling the guns' 
 with the stoutest spare rigging on board, having a round turn 
 around all these cables, and heave them over ; if she should still 
 drag, cut away the masts, and if there be no possibiUty of pre- 
 venting her from going on shore, take a stout spring to one of 
 the quarters, slip the cables, let her veer round and go on shore 
 end on.t 
 
 Note— In weighing these anchors, bring-to first on the cable 
 which has got the least scope out, taking in the slack of the 
 others with deck-tackles. 
 
 354.— SCUDDING UNDER A FORESAIL— TO COME 
 TO AN ANCHOR. 
 
 Get both bowers ready for letting go ; haul up the foresail, 
 making a due allowance for headway, and run in under bare 
 poles; when near the berth, down helm, out with the span- 
 ker, and haul aft mizen storm stay-sail sheet ; when by the wind 
 let go the weather anchor and veer away briskly ; when head to 
 wind, let go the lee anchor, and haul down the staysail ; veer-to, 
 and bring equal strain on both cables. If necessary, let go more 
 anchors. 
 
 355.— TO MAKE A FLYING MOOR. 
 
 Make all necessary preparations for coming-to ; overhaul and 
 bitl a double range of the weather cable, and bitt the lee one at 
 the range to which she is to be moored. When approaching the 
 anchorage, reduce sail to topsails, jib and spanker, if moderate, 
 but if fresh, to jib and spanker only ; when near the berth of the 
 first anchor, luff-to, stream the buoy, and when the headway has 
 
 ♦ If they are hemp cables; if chain, it is unnecessary, 
 t See wrecked in a. gale. 
 13 
 
194 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 nearly ceased, let go the weather anchor, up helm, stand on and 
 veer away roundly, to prevent the range from checking" her : 
 when the full range is nearly out, hard down the helm, down jib, 
 clew up the topsails, out spanker, and let her lay the range out 
 taut ; when taut, let go the lee anchor, furl sails, bring-to on the 
 weather-cable, reeving away on the lee one, and heave into the 
 moorings. Moor taut, to allow for veering ; clap on sei-vice, and 
 veer it ; if hemp cable, square the yards, stop in the rigging, and 
 clear up the decks. 
 
 356.— TO MOOR WITH A LONG SCOPE OF CHAIN. 
 
 Shackle the ends of both chains together, and veer away near- 
 ly the whole of the two cables ; then let go the other anchor, 
 bring-to on the first cable, heave in, veering away on the other ; 
 when into the mooring mark or shackle, stopper and bitt, un- 
 shackle the chains, and secure all ; clear up the decks, and pay 
 the chain below. {See Unmooring and Mooring.) 
 
 357.— BLOWING FRESH— IN PORT. 
 
 Range the cables, see the anchor clear, and an anchor watch 
 set ; have leads-men in the chains — send down the upper yards 
 if not already down; house top-gallant masts, and point the 
 yards to the wind. 
 
 358.— SEND DOWN LOWER YARDS. 
 
 Send aloft the jeer-blocks, lash them, and reeve the jeers • see 
 the gear of the courses clear, trusses unrove, and lifts clear for 
 unreeving ; hook the yard-tackles and take them forward, heave 
 taut the jeers, unreeve the lanyard of the slings, attend the 
 braces and yard-tackles, lower away by the jeers and hfts. 
 When down make all fast. 
 
OR YOUNG 8AlLOKci' ASSISTANT. 195 
 
 359.— TO HOUSE TOPMASTS. 
 
 Hook top-blocks, reeve pendants and falls, see the ri^iging clear 
 that leads to the topmast heads, man the top tackle-falls, slack 
 the lanyards of the rigging, stays and backstays ; sway up, out 
 fid, lower away, and haul down on the rigging; when low 
 enough, pass heel-lashings around the lower masts, having can- 
 vass in the wake ; set taut the rigging and stays. Sheep-shank 
 the backstays, haul taut the running-rigging, and make all snug. 
 
 Note. — The topmasts may be housed with the lower yards 
 aloft, by taking the yard-tackles forward and bousing upon them, 
 slacking the braces and trusses at the same time (if not patent 
 trusses). The patent truss has been so improved that the mast 
 can be housed by unclamping one side and bracing shaip up. 
 
 360.— TO BACK A BOWER BY A STREAM. 
 
 Bend a stream-cable to the flukes of the bower-anchor, observ- 
 ing to let go the stream first ; and when the cable is taut, let go 
 the bower. If the bower is already down and dragging, form a 
 clinch with the stream, around the cable, and let her drag until 
 she brings the stream ahead. 
 
 361.— TO SWEEP FOR AN ANCHOR. 
 
 Make use of long stout running-rigging; middle it, and attach 
 some sinker to the middle, also along the bight, to confine it to 
 the bottom. Coil it away in two boats, and pull to windward 
 of where the anchor is supposed to lie; then pull in an opposite 
 direction, veering away on the bight from both boats ; now pull 
 in the direction of the anchor, and when the bight catches, cross 
 the boats, and get a round turn with the rope ; make a runnmg 
 bowline on the end of a hawser around the rope, and shp it 
 down ; when fast, weigh with the launch. 
 
 Note.—A. section of small sized chain, with a rope bent to each 
 end, is the best means that can be used to sweep for an anchor. 
 Cross and bring both parts together, after which put on a shackle 
 on both parts, and let it run down to the anchor ; then heave up 
 on both parts. 
 
196 THE KE-^>GE-A^CHOR; 
 
 362.— PEEP AEATIONS FOE, LEAVING HAEBOR. 
 
 Inspect the tiller-ropes, shift hard over the helm, once or twice 
 each A^ay, in order to see that the tiller is not obstructed in its 
 sweep in the gun-j-oom. Place lead-lines in both channels. 
 Point the ends of the hawsers up the hatchways, ready for pay- 
 ing out in any direction. Range both bower cables ; sefc stoppers 
 placed in readiness (bitt and ring). Examine cat-head stop- 
 pers, and shank-painters of both bower-anchors. 
 
 Should the shank-painters be fitted slip-shackle fashion, care 
 should be taken to place men by them who are acquainted with 
 the method of disengaging the anchors, &c. 
 
 363.— WEIGHING ANCHOR IN A HEAD-SEA. 
 
 In weighing anchor with a head-sea, precaution should be 
 taken to have previously prepared a good deck-tackle or other 
 purchase, which affix to the messenger (if required), to assist the 
 action of the capstan. There should also be had in readiness an 
 ample quantity of nippers. {/See Passing Nippers.) 
 
 364.— CASTING, OE CUTTING THE CABLE. 
 
 When at single anchor in a roadstead, and if it be apprehended 
 that from the direction of the wind, and the local position of the 
 ship with the shore, it may be necessary to have recourse to cut- 
 ting the cable, and that casting the wrong way would endanger 
 the safety of the vessel, timely precaution should be taken to 
 ensure the ships casting in the right direction. 
 
 To effect this puipose, the stream cable should be bent to that 
 of the riding bower, brought through the after part, and taken 
 round the capstan, in readiness to act as a spring, to cant the 
 ship previously to cutting. Axes should be placed abaft in the 
 vicinity of the stream cable, for the purpose of cutting it, after 
 the bower has been severed, and the ship's head cast the desired 
 way. 
 
 Note. — A slip or buoy-rope should be brought over " head," so 
 that when the cable is cut, a buoy may be left in the_ roadstead 
 to denote the position of the anchor. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 197 
 
 365.— CLINCHING CABLES. 
 
 Whatever be the number of hemp cables which are bent to the 
 anchors, the officer in charge is particularly cautioned to clap on a 
 clinch rounding, towards the inner extremity of each cable, keep- 
 ing three sheaves in the tier ; upon receiving the cables on board, 
 and clinching their respective ends, the officer may proceed as 
 given in the note below. 
 
 Chain-cables should never be clinched in a manner which will 
 not admit of their ends being immediately disengaged, in the 
 event of it becoming necessary to slip, or extricate the ship from 
 her anchors ; it may be said, that the cable may be unshackled 
 on deck, but it may so happen, that the last shackle is without 
 the hawse — a circumstance which will preclude the possibility of 
 having recourse to this expedient. 
 
 Note. — Pay down three sheaves into the tier, and then clap on a 
 racking lashing to the fore beam, previously worming and parceling 
 in the wake of the lashing ; measure then, allowing the cable bitted, 
 and clap on a rounding in the wake, where the cable would bring 
 up in the hawse, and chafe in the cutwater. This method leaves 
 room to freshen hawse, in the event of having to veer to the 
 clinch. Few ships adopt the precaution of clapping upon their 
 cables a clinch service ; when too late, the necessity of the prac- 
 tice is discovered. 
 
 366.— FITTING BUOY-ROPES. 
 
 Buoy-ropes are always proportioned to the depth of water. 
 One end is unlaid, and a buoy rope-knot made ; it is then laid up 
 again, and whipped. A clove hitch is made, one half of tlie 
 hitch being on each side of the crown. The end with the knot 
 is seized on the shank, one seizing put on close to the crown, 
 and one close to the end. The other is bent to the buoy. Some 
 prefer the running eye. Put over one arm, and a half-hitch over 
 the other arm, and seized in the cross. 
 
 367.— JIB-HALLIARDS WITH A WHIP. 
 
 A piece of lope, nearly equal to the double halliards, is rove 
 through the block at the mast-head, and hooked to the head of 
 the jib, a hook being spliced in the end ; in the other a singlb 
 
igg THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 block is spliced high enough from the deck to allow the jib being 
 hauled close down. Through this block reeve a fall, and send 
 Loth ends down through lubber's-hole ; splice a hook in one end, 
 and hook into a bolt ; reeve the other through a leading-block. 
 Objections have been made to whips, but if the standing part is 
 put a good distance from the hauling, it is impossible that it can 
 take turns in— they can lead abaft the top if necessary. I should 
 recommend their being biought down immediately forward of 
 topsail halliards. 
 
 368.— JIB SHEETS, DOUBLE. 
 
 Two single blocks are seized into one strap, as span blocks, 
 and the strap secured to the clew* of the sail, with a lashing pass- 
 ed through it, and an eye formed in the strap by crossing both 
 parts together, and passing a throat seizing. One end of the 
 sheet is clinched or spUced into an eye-bolt in the bulwarks, the 
 other end rove through the block in the sail, from out, in and 
 through a fair-leader or sheave in the bulwarks. 
 
 With pendants, a piece of rope of sufficient size and length is 
 middled, crossed, and a throat seizing passed round both parts, 
 having an eye in the bight large enough to take a lashing. In 
 each of these pendants, splice a single block ; reeve a whip the 
 same as in the double sheets. The pendants should be long 
 enough to allow the weathei- one to hang slack on the fore-top- 
 mast stay, when the sheet is aft. {See Sail Table for iron clews.) 
 
 369 V/EECKED IN A GALE. 
 
 When this sad fate appears inevitable, it would be well to 
 make choice (if choice can be made), of what appears the best 
 part of the coast, and the clearest from rocks, for beaching her. 
 
 The manner in which the boatmen beach their boats, is by 
 laying them, with the assistance of the helm, half-broadside on, 
 or rather bow and quarter on, having previously given the vessel 
 a heel, or list in shore. This may be done either by trimming, 
 or by the sallying of the crew, before the time that the vessel 
 takes the ground. Such a position will offer the best iTieans of 
 saving the crew, who may also be materially assisted by cutting 
 
 » Ircn clews being fitted to all sails, the strap would be likely to chafe. I wuuli 
 rficommend snug clump sister-hooks, or shackles, fitted to the clews. 
 
OR YOUNG S&.ILORS' ASSISTANT. . 1% 
 
 away the masts, so as to fall towards the shore, which may be 
 the means of assisting those on board to reach the shore. 
 
 In establishing a communication with the shore, if it be by a 
 boat, the end of the deep sea-lead line should be taken in her, or 
 if it be by some good swimmer, with a cork jacket on, the end of 
 the log hne will serve the same purpose ; by either of these, haw- 
 sers, or other large ropes may afterwards be got on shore. 
 
 The means of getting on shore from a wreck are by life boats, 
 rafts, parts of the wreck, or life preservers. 
 
 A canvass cot, with large holes at the bottom, to admit the 
 water to pass through freely, and having cross bars of thick rope, 
 should also be kept in readiness for such an occasion. 
 
 Raw-hide rope will be the best for traveling grommeis. Some 
 other expedients might be mentioned, which are for the consider 
 ation of oflicers in charge of vessels. 
 
 3 7 O.— SETTING UP RIGGING AT SEA. 
 
 Whenever it is required to set up the lower shrouds, at sea, 
 the topmast shrouds should be all let go ; this practice is recom- 
 mended upon the presumption that the lower rigging will not be 
 cast loose, or set up on the occasion of a swell, or that the ship 
 be rolling or pitching. It has been well observed, that by letting 
 go two topmast shrouds at a time, an uneven strain has been 
 brought upon the futtock ;* which prevents the shrouds of the 
 lower rigging being equally drawn down. 
 
 Upon all occasions of setting up the lower rigging at sea, it is 
 always advisable to have ready prepared as many luffs as possi- 
 ble, so that the shrouds may be set up at a time, and that there 
 may be no delay in shifting the tackles from shroud to shroud. 
 When the lower rigging is up, the futtock plates should be beaten 
 down to the top, and the shrouds set tautly up by means of tackles, 
 ready hooked to there respective lanyards. The method of em- 
 ploying the Spanish windlass, for the purpose of setting up these 
 shrouds, is not to be recommended. It occupies too much time, 
 and often creates unnecessary delay before the topmast rigging 
 can be set up. In staying the topmasts, the boatswain is not 
 recommended to bouse too far forward the heads of the m9,st, and 
 he should recollect that the angle formed by the mam lopmast 
 stay, with the fore top, is considerably greater than that of the 
 fore topmast with the bowsprit ; and consequently that the lever 
 of the former is more powerful than that of the latter. 
 
 » This is only applicable to vessels having their futtock-rigging set up to thfiil 
 lower rigging. 
 
200 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Note. — Vessels not having catharpen legs, need not come up the 
 topmast rigging for the purpose of setting up lower rigging, as 
 the futtock-shrouds set up to the mast. 
 
 3T1.— SLACKINa THE JIB-STAY, IN BAD WEATHER. 
 
 The jib-stay is always set up as taut as a bar of iron ; conse- 
 quently, when it comes to a blow, both the spray of the sea and 
 the rain tend to tauten it more ; in pitching, too, it must assist 
 to spring the boom, work the bowsprit, and cause unnecessary 
 strain upon the rope itself. Whenever it blows so fresh that the 
 jib is not likely to be set, the jib-stay should be slacked. If it be 
 required subsequently to setting the sail, nothing can be easier 
 than to set the stay up, while the jib is loosing. {Bear this in 
 mind.) 
 
 373.— STOPPING OUT TOPGALLANT YARD ROPES. 
 
 The practice of permitting the topmen to stop the topgallant 
 yard ropes out at their own convenience, and consequently at 
 unstated periods, is at variance with that order and regularity 
 which should ever characterize the duties and discipUne of a ves- 
 sel of war. 
 
 In well regulated ships, the officer of the watch, following the 
 movements of the senior officers, directs the boatswain or his 
 mates to pipe " out yard ropes ;" if tripping-lines are tolerated, the 
 yard rope and tripping-line men should lay out together : by pur- 
 suing this system the yards will be kept square, and will not 
 (as is of constant occurrence), be seen for an hour and a half be- 
 fore sunset, topping in different directions. The same rule should 
 be observed when placing on whips for hammock-girtUnes, or 
 clothes-lines. 
 
 373.— PREVENTER BRACES. 
 
 It is desirable to establish a general rule, that when the top- 
 sails are treble-reefed, the preventer braces are to be placed on the 
 yards, and that the relieving tackles in the gun room be placed 
 at hand ready for use. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 201 
 
 374.— KEEPING A CLEAR ANCHOR. 
 
 That part of seamanship which relates to the method of tend- 
 ing a ship to the tide, or in other words of keeping the cable cleai 
 of the anchor, may not be inaptly termed the blind branch of 
 the mariner's art — the buoy floating on the surface being the 
 only possible guide that the seaman possesses to point to the po- 
 sition of the anchor hidden under water. 
 
 From being little understood, and by young oflBcers it is seldom 
 put in practice, the art of keeping a clear anchor is by many con- 
 sidered a difficult task ; but, were officers to give more attention 
 to the matter, and to place less dependence on the master or pilot, 
 they would soon attain every necessary knowledge to meet the 
 most difficult tide case. 
 
 375.— ANCHOR TURNING IN THE GROUND. 
 
 -r-<^^ 
 
 In order to ensure the certainty of an anchor turning in the 
 ground, with the tending or svnnging of the ship, it is recom- 
 mended (whenever it is possible), to resort to this practice : To 
 shoot the ship on the same side of her anchor, at each change of 
 tide ; for if the anchor should not turn in the ground, the cable 
 will get foul, either about the stock or upper fluke, and trip it 
 out of ground. (Remember this). 
 
 376.— TO TEND TO A WEATHER-TIDE 
 
 Let it be supposed that a ship is riding at single anchor, upon 
 a lee-tide, Ivith the wind in the same direction as the tide, and 
 that it be required, upon the tide setting to wmdward, to tend 
 the ship clear of the anchor. To effect this, as soon as the ship 
 
202 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 begins to feel the turn of the weather-tide, and that the vessel 
 brings the wind broad on the weather-bow, the head sails should 
 be hoisted, and the lee-sheets hauled aft, in order to shoot the 
 ship from her anchor, on a taut cable. The helm must be put 
 "a-lee," and kept in that position until the tide sets the ship over 
 to windward of her cable, and the buoy appears on the same side 
 with the helm. If from light winds the buoy bears nearly 
 a-beam, her head sails may be hauled down ; but if the breeze 
 be strong, and it causes the ship to shoot in a direction nearly 
 end-on with that of the cable, bringing the buoy on her quarter, 
 it will be necessary to keep the fore-topmast-staysail set, in orde 
 to check the vessel, should she be disposed to break her shea 
 against the action of her helm, or be inclined to drop to wind- 
 ward and " go over" her anchor, in a broadside or lateral direc- 
 tion. 
 
 377.— A MAN OVERBOARD, AT SEA. 
 
 If the ship be going free, and particularly if fast through the 
 water, it is recommended to bring-to with the head-yards a-back, 
 for it is obvious if the main-yard be left square, the ship will be 
 longer coming-to, will shoot farther, increase the distance from 
 the man, and add materially to the delay of succor. 
 
 It will however require judgment, especially if blowing fresh, 
 to be careful and right the helm in time, or the ship will fly-to 
 too much, gain sternway, and risk the boat in lowering down. 
 
 The best authority recommends, that if possible, the ship 
 should not only be hove a-back when a man falls overboard, but 
 she ought to be brought around on the other tack ; of course 
 sa'il ought to be shortened in stays, and the main-yard kept 
 square. This implies the ship being on a wind, or from the 
 position of having the wind not above two points abaft the beam. 
 
 The great merit of such a method of proceeding, is, that if the 
 evolution succeeds, the ship when round will drift towards the 
 man, and although there may be some small risk in lowering 
 the boat in stays from the ship, having at one period sternway, 
 there will in fact be little time lost, if the boat be not lowered 
 until the ship be well round, and the sternway at an end. There 
 is more mischief done generally, by lowering the boat too soon, 
 than by waiting until the fittest moment arrives for doing it 
 coolly. It cannot be too often repeated, that almost the vi Sole 
 depends upon the self-possession of the officer of the deck. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 20o 
 
 378.— JIB AND STAYSAIL-HALLIARD 
 
 {Blocks at mast-head.) 
 
 For various reasons it is advisable to dispense with the cheek- 
 blocks, which are usually fitted to the fore topmast-head, for the 
 purpose of reeving the above two ropes, together with the fore 
 topmast staysail-halliards. In the first place, if the fore-topmast 
 be sprung, or carried away in chase, and it be required to shift 
 the mast with all possible speed, considerable time is taken 
 up in removing and replacing cheek-blocks at the mast-head 
 {See allowance-table, Blocks.) 
 
 Note. — In some ships the jib and fore-topmast staysail-halliards 
 are rove through gins fitted for the purpqse. Gins, however, 
 are not supplied in all ships, but you can always fit fiddle-blocks 
 under the eyes of your rigging; your jib and staysail-halliards 
 reeve in the upper sheaves, and the topsail-buntlines in the lower 
 ones. Cheek-blocks answer well on the trestle- trees. 
 
 379 TO KEEP THE HAWSE CLEAE WHEN MOORED. 
 
 When it is nearly slack water, cant her with the helm the 
 right way, and if necessary, make use of jib, spanker, and yards. 
 
 380.— TO TEND TO WINDWARD— SINGLE ANCHOR. 
 
 When the tide slacks, sheer her with the helm, run up the jib 
 and fore-topmast staysail, with weather-sheets aft ; when canted 
 the right way, the lee-sheets may be hauled aft, and and the 
 yards filled, thus setting her abreast to a taut cable ; when the 
 buoy is on the lee-quarter, brace the head-yards to the wind, and 
 fill the after ones ; when the tide swings her head around so as 
 to shake the sails, haul down and stow them. 
 
 381.— TO TEND TO LEEWARD. 
 
 As the tide slackens, sheer her to the same side of the buoy on 
 which she came to windward, and fill the yards, which will set 
 
204 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR: 
 
 her end-on over the cable ; she will now by the effect of tha 
 wind, bring her stern over the cable, and bring the buoy on her 
 weather-quarter ; put the helm " a-weather," and she will shoot 
 ahead, tautening the cable, by sheering her head from the wind. 
 When the wind gets a little aft the beam, hoist the jib, to prevent 
 the cable from drawing her head to wind. 
 
 Let her lay in this position until she falls oflf; when the head- 
 sails shake, haul down and stow them. 
 
 382.— TO BACK SHIP— (AT ANCHOR). 
 
 As the tide slacks, sheer her to windward, sheet-home and set 
 the mizen-topsail ; thus she will back round to leeward as soon 
 as the tide sets up ; clew up and furl the mizen-topsail. 
 
 383.— TO BREAK THE SHEAR. 
 
 When tending to the tide, and the ship comes over her anchor, 
 she may break her shear by canting her stern the wrong way ; 
 when this is the case put the helm "a-weather," run the jib up, 
 fill the head-yards, and the after-yards kept-to. Everything is 
 now arranged to bring her round again, when she must be man- 
 aged as before mentioned. 
 
 stow them away ; 
 
 384.— ON GETTING TO SEA. 
 
 Unship the man-ropes, stow them 
 away, secure the gangways, pay down 
 the messenger, and secure anchors and 
 boats. The anchors ought to be se- 
 cured with preventer stoppers, and 
 painters, particularly where they work 
 with a slip-shackle or tricker, which a 
 rope catching, may drag or drive out. 
 In fact the jib-sheet is apt to do this 
 if not looked to. 
 
 Wash and dry the nippers, then 
 wash down the anchors and buoys, and black 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 205 
 
 them as soon as possible ; when clear of the land, unbend cables, 
 buoys, and buoy-ropes, and ship the blind-buckles, unless prevent- 
 ed by peculiar circumstances. 
 
 Take off the harbor-gaskets and have them repaired and 
 blackened afresh, when convenient. If the bunt-gaskets, however, 
 are retained on the yards, roll them up snug and secure them. 
 Put the sea-gaskets on, make them up in cheises, and keep them 
 before the yards. 
 
 Place bunt-line spans to their respective yards. 
 
 Have the boats' sails and awnings dried and put below. 
 
 Q,uarter-boat3 clear for lowering. 
 
 fiesides these, the watch on deck, when not employed in more 
 
 (iressing duties, may be occupied to much advantage as fol- 
 ows, viz. : 
 1st. Exercising small-arms, cutlasses and guns ; 
 2d. Pointing all ropes requiring it ; 
 
 3d. Working up a sufficient quantity of junk, into seizmg- 
 stuff, mats, swabs, foxes, thumb-lines, knittles, gaskets, reef- 
 points, nippers, salvagees, straps, &c., <fec. 
 
 385.— ON FIKB RBaULATIONS IN THE MERCHANT- 
 SERVICE. 
 
 We now come to the most important of all the regulations in 
 a ship, namely, those which operate against the fatal and shock- 
 ing elfects of fire. Whatever good results from stationing people 
 in ordinary cases, cannot be put in competition with this, which 
 provides against the most dreadful catastrophe incident to a ship. 
 From the number of unfortunate accidents of this nature we 
 surely ought to be prepared to our utmost for such an event. 
 
 First, by internal precautions ; and 
 
 Secondly, by the means to be used against the danger. 
 
 Let there be great attention in the use of fire and lights.— The 
 regulations on these subjects which exist in men of war are still 
 more required in merchant vessels. 
 
 Fires should be put out at eight p. m., and all lights at nme 
 p. M., except those required for the binnacle, and on deck. 
 
 The officer of the last dog-wateh ought to report the fire extm- 
 guished to the captain. , , i 
 
 As each man is relieved from the wheel, he should examme 
 below, and report " all well " to the officer of the watch. 
 
 No naked light whatever ought to be permitted ; let eithei 
 lanterns or lamps be used. , ,. . . u 
 
 Spirits should be drawn off by day; a naked light should on 
 no account be permitted near a spirit cask. 
 
206 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Smoking should not be allowed below. I have known more 
 than one ship set on fire by a man's pipe ;'and by segars, I have 
 no doubt many have been burnt. 
 
 In stowing a hold, do not allow naked lights to be used, nor 
 any person to smoke there when so employed. 
 
 On receiving cotton as a cargo, both those who ship as well 
 as those who receive it, ought to ascertain that it is in a safe state 
 before it be put on board. I have known instances of its being 
 sold and moved away, when, in a few hours, if it had not been 
 moved, it would have ignited. 
 
 I am acquainted with the particulars of a ship that was burnt 
 some years since, where oil had been stowed in the hold with 
 cotton over it, with what was considered safe and secure dunnag*e 
 between. The cotton, notwithstanding, absorbed a quantity of 
 oil. became heated, and ignited. The crew with difficulty saved 
 themselves in the boats before the flames burst forth, and the 
 vessel was entirely consumed. 
 
 Chests containing bottles of inflammable substances, such as 
 vitriol, &c., cannot be too well secured. A medicine chest upset 
 in a gale may set fire to a ship. 
 
 Friction matches should never be allowed on board a ship. 
 The coals in steamers have frequently taken fire, and in many 
 cases with the most fatal consequences. Too much care cannot 
 be taken in the selection of coals ; a strict examination ought to 
 be made as to their state when received and stowed, and no sus- 
 picious circumstances should be then overlooked. When receiv- 
 ing coals, avoid throwing the fresh ones on the old, which ought 
 to be kept uppermost, and Jirst for use. When once they become 
 ignited, I can hardly offer a remedy for the evil. 
 
 When coals take fire, some people throw water upon them, 
 and smother the fire by wet beds. Hot water, or steam, if they 
 can be used, are more expeditious than cold water in extinguish- 
 ing fire, I believe. To attempt to discharge the coals, would al- 
 low the air freer access, and would be certain to increase the 
 power of the fire. 
 
 A few canvass buckets, with long lanyards, should be always 
 prepared and ready on deck for drawing water. 
 
 When a fire is first discovered, shorten all low sails directly, 
 
 courses up, stay-sails and wind-sails down, boat-covers taken off. 
 
 If the sails should take fire from lightning, or any other cause. 
 
 cutting away the mast appears the most likely method of saving 
 
 the ship. 
 
 At first, endeavor if possible, to stifle the fire ; which may be 
 best done by shutting off" any draught of air, and smothering it 
 with wet bedding, small sails, &c., until a good supply of waver 
 can be applied. 
 
 If the fire is forward, put before the wind until it is necessary 
 to " out boats," then bring-to. 
 
 If the fire is aft, or a-midships, keep to the wind. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 207 
 
 386.— STATION BILL FOR FIRE, IN THE MER- 
 CHANT SERVICE.* 
 
 Coolness and steadiness in any misfortune by fire are essential 
 to arrest it 
 
 If a fire break out below, the hatchways should be immediately 
 covered, to prevent a draught of air. 
 
 Ring the ship's bell to call the men to their stations. 
 
 men's names. 
 A very steady man - 
 
 The carpenter, and 
 one man. 
 
 The chief mate, boat- 
 swain, and ship's cook. 
 
 A man of each watch 
 or more. 
 
 A boy. 
 
 Remainder of star- 
 board watch. 
 
 Remamder of larboard 
 watch. 
 
 DUTIES. 
 
 - To the helm. 
 
 -First, to cover hatchways with gratirgs and 
 tarpaulins. 
 Secondly, to rig pumps and lead hoses; and 
 Thirdly, get the tools ready for cutting away, 
 
 - if required. 
 
 To attend where the fire is, and pass water to 
 it, &c. 
 
 To the pumps, and to draw water as for wash- 
 ( ing decks. 
 
 ^ To collect all the buckets to the part where the 
 ( water is being drawn. 
 
 ("First duty to haul up courses, brail up trysails 
 J and spanker. 
 
 I Second duty, draw and pass water with the fire 
 '- buckets ; then for third duty see below. 
 
 r First duty, to haul up courses, brail up trysails 
 I and spanker. 
 
 ■S Second duty, to soak small sails and bedding to 
 throw over and smother the fire ; then for third 
 *- duty see below. 
 
 Cabin steward, and 
 cabin boy. 
 
 Second mate to direct 
 fire hose, and the sup- 
 
 Sly of water from 
 eck. 
 
 The crew. 
 
 If any powder or other combustibles are on 
 board, to throw them overboard if possible, 
 or drown them. 
 
 If the fresh water is in tanks, turn the waste- 
 valvest of two of them for a first supply for 
 the pump, and then go to direct fire hose, &c. 
 
 {Third duties of the crew, the yard and stay- 
 tackles to be got up ready for getting >ut 
 boats. 
 
 • This bill ought to be written out or printed, and hung up for every one's in- 
 
 spection. 
 t The mate ough to have the key of the valves of the water tanks m his own 
 
 keeping. 
 
208 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 men's names. duties. 
 
 Fourth duties of the crew, if the fire appears to 
 
 increase, out boats, and lower down the 
 
 The crew. •{ quarter boats ; let them lay off in a string to 
 
 windward, with a man and a boy as keepers, 
 
 ready for the rest of the crew if required. 
 
 The captain To attend at all the stations as he deems best. 
 
 If the ship cannot be saved, the passengers and crew are the 
 first objects, with some fresh water and biscuit ; a compass, quad- 
 rant and Bowditch. Unless there is sufficient time, and it can 
 be done without endangering the sea-worthiness of the boats, 
 nothing should be taken that is not essential to the mere preser- 
 vation of life, and necessary for navigating the boats. 
 
 387.— TAKING TO THE BOATS. 
 
 The captain should in his own mind, and by a private memo- 
 randum, station the passengers and crew to the boats on board, 
 and likewise make the persons here specified be responsible for 
 having the following articles put into the boats. 
 
 Captain. 
 
 First mate. 
 
 Second mate. 
 Surgeon - - 
 
 / Compass, Maury on Navigation, sextant, spy- 
 ) glass, Nautical Almanac, pencils and writing 
 J paper, general chart, pocket watch, pair ol 
 ' compasses, &c. 
 
 Oars, 
 
 Carpenter. 
 
 Third mate, or boat- 
 swain. 
 
 Sail maker. 
 Cook, and steward. 
 
 masts, sails, boat-hodks, bolt of canvass, 
 
 boat's compass, Bowditch's chart, ensign. 
 
 Two or three bags of biscuits, some breakers of 
 water, quadrant, pencils and writing paper 
 half-gill measure, a musket, box of cartridges, 
 and flints or caps. 
 
 - Pocket instruments. 
 
 I Hammer, nails, sheet-lead, grease, fearnought, 
 oakum, saw, chisel, turn-screw, cold chisel, a 
 vial of sweet oil, any small iron rod. 
 
 Coil of inch rope, long reel, deep-sea reel, paint- 
 ed canvass, marling-spikes, spun-yarn, &o. 
 
 Palm, needles, twine, fishing-lines, hooks, paint- 
 ed canvass, boat's awning. 
 
 Tinder-box, flints and tinder, small box, lantern 
 and candles, cheese, cabin biscuit, chocolate. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 209 
 
 Each Derson. 5 ^ "" P"*^ ^ pooket knife, a change of flaiinels 
 
 and stockings. 
 
 With a scarcity of food, savages attempt to lessen the cravings 
 of hunger by tightening a belt around the waist ; and by sucking 
 a pebble they in some degree alleviate thirst. Chewing tobacco 
 may also be serviceable under such circumstances. In such 
 emergencies all must fare alike. 
 
 388.— LOSING A BUDDEE, AT A CKITICAL MOMENT, 
 {such as crossing a Bar, ^c.) 
 
 A ship might lose her rudder at a critical moment in crossing 
 the bar- of a river, when a few minutes more might run her 
 aground, if she were unmanageable ; and in this case, what tem- 
 porary rudder is best becomes a question for which a few moments 
 only are given to decide. The plan of steering by the stream- 
 cable payed out astern, or by the stern-boat lowered instantly, with 
 the plug out, and towed astern by a hawser, with guys leading 
 up to each quarter, would perhaps then be adopted ; while a ship 
 losing her rudder at sea would have leisure to adopt any other 
 plan. 
 
 It might be an advantage, if every vessel would take some op- 
 portunity of trying how she could steer with a stern-boat in the 
 manner described, and what length of tow-line was required to 
 enable her to steer the most easily, so as to avoid wild yawing. 
 The experiment might be made in moderate weather with the 
 wind on the quarter, and also right aft, under top-sails, top-gal- 
 lant-sails and fore-sail, running five or six knots. Nothing gives 
 confidence so much as practice. 
 
 389.— STEAMERS GETTING AGROUND. 
 
 As steamers would probably do so with very fresh way on, 
 they ought at once to stop their engines, but on no account to 
 attempt to reverse them, until the extent of the injury be ascer- 
 tained ; otherwise they may go down in deep water. Their first 
 duty is to out boats, and place the passengers in safety in them_ ; 
 the crew might then ascertain the state of the vessel ; if she ia 
 likely to float, and can be got off, the attempt to do so should be 
 made ; but if not, the crew can take to the boats. 
 14 
 
210 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 390.— ON THE DUTY OF KEMAINING BY A 
 DAMAGED VESSEL 
 
 When two vessels have run foul of each other, the one which 
 is the least injured is bound, by every sense of justice and hu-' 
 manity, to stay by the other to render every assistance in her 
 power ; a contrary proceeding ought to make the guilty party 
 liable to some punishment. If one appears likely to sink, the 
 the boat lashings should be cut, that the boat or boats may be 
 got out or float off. 
 
 When freshly blows the northern gales, 
 Then under courses snug we fly ; 
 When lighter breezes swell the sails, 
 Then royals proudly sweep the sky. 
 
PART VII. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS. 
 
 391.— ON SQUAKING YARDS. 
 
 Simple as may seem the process of squaring yards, it is never- 
 theless a piece of duty which requires considerable precision, and 
 this precision can never be obtained without a knowledge of the 
 principle upon which the yards should be squared. A boatswain, 
 Ignorant of this principle, will generally proceed thus: he first 
 bouses taut the lower trusses, squares the yards by the braces, 
 and, quite regardless of the distance of the topsaiUyards from 
 their respective caps, or looking to see if the yards are a-midships, 
 directs the chief boatswain's mate to take his station on the 
 end of the jib-boom, whilst he himself proceeds in the boat ahead 
 of the ship to square the yards by the lifts. Should the fore-yard 
 be required to be topped to starboard, the boatswain will top 
 away upon the yard-arm until, hy chance, he discovers he has 
 topped it too high ; to remedy this eye sore, he sings out " Fore- 
 yard to port," and tops until he raises the larboard arm as high 
 as the starboard ; producing by this system of topping, and never 
 settling, a most unsightly bow in the yard. He then squares the 
 fore-topsail yard by the bowed fore-yard, and of course treats the 
 fore-topsail yard to a bit of a bend likewise. He then takes the 
 main yard in hand, which, though probably square by the lifts, 
 can no longer look so in his eye, because the yard arms are not 
 made to cock up like those of the fore yard. "Main yard to 
 starboard," he sings out, with an audible voice ; the lift is topped 
 several feet to starboard, and then to port, until the yard assumes 
 the desired cock the boatswain has in his eye in squaring the 
 loftier yards by the lifts. Boatswains seldom take the precaution 
 to place hands to tend the top-gallant braces. It should be re- 
 membered that the topping of the lifts alter and disturb the square 
 position of the yards by the braces. These may appear minute 
 
214 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 
 
 matters, but unless they be strictly observed, yards never can be 
 properly squared. 
 
 In squaring yards by the lifts, the lanyards should always be 
 unrove to two or three turns, the jigger hooked to them and 
 hauled taut ; and when topping on one lift always ease the op- 
 posite lanyard with the jigger ; if not, the lanyard will render 
 with jerks, and the yard will probably have to be topped the op 
 posite way. The lanyards should be rocked when sufficiently up, 
 the plan of nipping with hands being a lazy, bad practice ; and 
 after much time spent in getting the yards nicely squared, the 
 lanyards have come up in securing. The ropes should be all 
 hauled taut before the boat comes on board ; all the ropes coiled 
 neatly and low in the tops ; nothing allowed to hang over the 
 bows, which should be kept quite clear ; and everything done to 
 make the ship appear in every respect what a man-of-war ought 
 to be. 
 
 Being particular in one part and not in another, has almost a 
 worse appearance than slovenly altogether. As the ship is con- 
 sidered a would-be man-of-war, and is the cause of many re- 
 marks, which, if heard by the commanding officer, would not be 
 at all complimentary to his nautical knowledge, if anything 
 should be studied more than another, it is the standing rigging 
 and position of the masts and yards, &c., (fee. 
 
 Note. — ^Before squaring the yards, the boatswain is recommend- 
 ed to see that the masts, and particularly the lofty spars, are up- 
 right and all in one. It frequently happens that after the boat- 
 swain has squared all the yards, fore and aft, he detects an 
 awkward inclination in one of the topgallant-masts ; he never- 
 theless returns on board, and reports to the senior lieutenant, 
 yards squared and ropes taut, but afterwards desires the captain 
 of the top to get a pull on the starboard or larboard top-gallant 
 breast-backstay, forgetting that this very pull affects the top-gal- 
 lant lifts, and consequently alters the position of the yards. The 
 first thing after the masts are all in one, or upright, as you choose 
 to term it, is to get your yards exactly amidships by rolling- 
 tackles ; then get them snugly trussed to the mast, and square 
 them by the braces, before proceeding ahead of the ship. 
 
 392.— UP TOP-GALLANT MASTS AND YARDS— 
 {The Masts, £fc. being on deck.) 
 
 One watch of topmen aloft, to get jack or tail blocks on, for 
 yard ropes, as also for flying jib and staysail halliards ; if the 
 sails are about to be loosed, have jiggers on the topgallant stays, 
 ready for setting up, and burtons overhauled, ready for clapping 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ^15 
 
 on the mast ropes ; in Adding, tlie other watch see everything 
 clear, and get tackles on the backstays, ready for setting up the 
 instant the mast is stayed. 
 
 "WORDS OP COMMAND. 
 
 '■'■All hands, up topgallant-masts and yards^^ — and loose sails 
 if requisite. 
 
 " ISway away," — ^let the masts wait for each other, after 
 placing the topgallant rigging, so that they may afterwards 
 ascend uniformly, and be fidded together. Instantly the fids are 
 in, stay topgallant-masts, and set up the quarter, or standing 
 backstays ; then without waiting for more of the rigging, proceed 
 to cross topgallant-yards alone, along with the loosing of the 
 sails, as may be requisite, and as is described in 394. 
 
 Remarks. — The mast-heads and eyes of the rigging, or fun- 
 nels, should be greased. 
 
 If topgallant-sails are unbent, and royal yard-ropes good, it 
 will malke the work of crossing topgallant-yards all the easier, to 
 use royal in place of topgaUant-yard ropes. 
 
 If there be no capshore, the topmast cap is apt to droop for- 
 ward, and by catching and jarning the topgallant-masts, to in- 
 terfere materially in the attempt to send them up smartly ; the 
 caps ought therefore to be well looked after. If the topgallant, 
 royal, and skysail masts, be all in one, it is generally found 
 necessary to let fall the bunts of the topsails, in order to get the 
 masts up ; at sea the yards must be braced up, the topsails low- 
 ered two-thirds down, and the mast sent up to windward. 
 
 393.— DOWN TOPGALLANT-MASTS AND YAKDS. 
 
 One watch, or part of a watch of topmen, aloft, to clear away 
 the topgallant rigging, unreeve flying-jib and staysail-halliards, 
 get jack or tail-blocks on, for royal and topgallant yard-ropes, 
 and burtons on the mast-ropes. 
 
 The other watch of topmen on deck, unlace the backstay-mats, 
 and slack the oackstay lanyards. , , , , 
 
 When ready, ^^sway away," two hands at the mast-head look- 
 ing out for the fids, the lanyards of which they should be cau- 
 tioned to see fast ; and two on topsail-yard to bear the heel clear, 
 and make fast heel-rope. 
 
 When the fids are out, hang the backstays to the tops, lower 
 all the masts together, and get heel-ropes/on, which should be m 
 readiness, from the deck to the fid-holes. 
 
216 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 If the rigging does not start easily, sway and surge without 
 delay; clap on the lizard through the royal-halliard sheave-hole, 
 as soon as it can be got at ; then lower the masts on deck, eithei 
 placing them fore and aft, or up and down the lower masts. - 
 
 Haul the rigging and backstays taut down from the mast- 
 heads, and stop them down along the topmast rigging, coiling 
 away the slack bights snug in the tops; also haul taut the stays 
 and all the small ropes. 
 
 See that the trucks are fairly placed, so that the signal-hal- 
 liards may traverse freely. 
 
 If the masts are only housed, haul the topgallant rigging and 
 backstays taut, as above, but stay the royal-masts, and sheep- 
 shank and set up the royal backstays and shrouds, if there 
 be any, or what is preferable, stop the slack part in bights, and 
 then set up ; also steady the heels of the topgallant-masts to the 
 topmast by a heel-rope. 
 
 Remarks. — The yards, according to circumstances, may be 
 either sent down at the moment you begin to lower the masts, 
 or at that when you begin to sway the masts, in order to take 
 out the fid. The former has the best effect, but in that case it is 
 essential to have picked hands to lower, and not to commence 
 lowering until the lower yard-arm is unrigged. 
 
 394.— CROSSING TOPGALLANT AND ROYAL-YARDS, 
 AND LOOSING SAIL. 
 
 That all the squadron may be prepared to cross yards and 
 loose sail at eight, or for any other manoeuvre, deemed proper at 
 the hoisting of the colors, the flag ship sometimes makes it a rule 
 to designate seven bells, that is 7 h. 30 m., by giving the prepar- 
 atory signal. The squadron have then an opportunity of regu- 
 lating their time by the Commodore's, and making such prepara- 
 tions for eight as may be necessary. 
 
 If this be done, and another very proper rule enforced, viz. : 
 the allowmg no one, on any account, to be aloft between five 
 raimutes before eight, and the time of making the signal, every 
 ship will be upon an equal footing in the keen competition 
 which immediately ensues. 
 
 PREPARATIONS. 
 
 Send the hands aloft to overhaul the lifts and braces ; prepare 
 studding-sail-booms for tricing up, bend the top bowlines to the 
 buntlme toggles, overhaul the gear of the courses, coiling it snug 
 
OR YOUNa SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 217 
 
 down on the lower yards, and take the cloths and half the gas- 
 kets off the fore and aft sail ; also stretch along and reeve the 
 yard-ropes. 
 
 WOKDS OF COMMAND. 
 
 "All hands, cross yards and loose sails;" 
 
 " Aloft, topmen ;" 
 
 " Aloft, sail loosers ;" 
 
 Sway out of the chains — viz.; upper topgallant yard-arms 
 clear of top-rims, or lubber's-hole ; royal yard-arms clear of cross- 
 trees. 
 
 " Sway away ;" trice up, lay out. 
 
 "Sway across — let fall," — the men at the same time hoisting 
 jibs and staysails, hauling out the bowlines, getting down the 
 squaring-marks of topgallant and royal lifts and braces, and 
 hoisting ensign, jack, and pendant. 
 
 A boat should then be manned without delay, for the boat- 
 swain to go ahead, look at the yards, see the head-sails taut up, 
 the bowline properly out, and everything ready for shortening 
 sail. 
 
 If the bowlines are not to be hauled out, and, in consequence, 
 the jibs and staysails not hoisted, nor the sheets of trysail and 
 spanker hauled aft, proceed as follows, viz. : — 
 
 Keep fast the topsail clewlines, and haul up the buntlines ; 
 throw the jibs out off the booms without touching the halliards, 
 and slack off the trysail and spanker-brails ; overhaul the brails 
 on one side and haul them up — on the other loose the small 
 sails enough for the wind to blow through, which will prevent 
 their heating, and even should it rain slightly, will avert much 
 harm. 
 
 Remark. — The frequent loosing of the sails is essential, to 
 prevent them from mildewing, particularly when new, and before 
 the gum has been shaken out. 
 
 39 a*— TOPMAST CAKRIED AWAY. 
 
 I would recommend vessels to use curb-chain, for parrels for 
 topsail-yards ; let it be wormed, parceled and covered with leather; 
 the seizings must be frequently examined. Carrying away a 
 parrel may occasion a serious loss of life, should there happen to 
 be any men on the yard at the time, and even if there are not, 
 this accident is very likely to carry away the topmast. 
 
 The funnels used for top-gallant rigging, are frequently used for 
 topmast rigging ; they are also very serviceable, and if a topmast is 
 
218 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 
 
 carried away, the funnel is then invaluable, as the topmast may 
 be shifted so much more quickly, the rigging remaining properly 
 placed. 
 
 396.— CLEAEING THE WRECK OF A TOPMAST. 
 
 Watch on deck to secure the wreck, and prevent its doing in- 
 jury—watch below to shorten sail. Hook top-blocks, reeve in 
 thera two hawsers ; the stoutest to leeward, for passing round 
 and securing the wreck, in order to get the rigging «fcc. in-board. 
 
 Hook luff-tackles in the lower pendants — ^let the other topgal- 
 lant yards be sent down, and the topgallant masts housed until 
 the topmast is shifted. If it be a fore-topmast that is carried 
 away, ease in the jib-boom— cut the lanyards of the topmast rig- 
 ging, securing the dead-eyes by studding-sail-halliards. 
 
 The weather-hawser may be employed to unfid the stump. 
 
 397.— CAREYING AWAY A JIB-BOOM. 
 
 Send down the fore-topgallant-yard, and house the fore-topgal- 
 lant-mast; use the fore-topmast staysail-halliards, and lee-fore- 
 bowline, for securing and getting in the wreck. 
 
 398.— TO FISH A LOWER YAED IN THE SHORTEST 
 
 TIME. 
 
 Incalculable are the evils which may result to a vessel from 
 the springing or snapping of a lower yard, especially the fore one. 
 
 If the yard be severed, get both pieces down on deck, and place 
 them together, to assume, as near as possible, their original posi- 
 tion. Hollow out, so as to fit the cylindrical surface of the yard, 
 two spare anchor-stock pieces, (or two proper fishes always fitted, 
 and to be kept as spare stores), in doing which, a depth of two oi 
 three inches will sufiice ; place one piece on the top, and the 
 other secured to the under part of the yard, towards the extrem- 
 ities ; dub down the superfluous wood, and round the edges, 
 ready to receive the requisite wooldings. 
 
 Previous to boring holes for the bolts, set close-to the anchor- 
 Biock pieces, with wedge upon wedge ; introduce then eight bolta, 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 219 
 
 of three-quarter inch diameter, which must be severally clinched. 
 Cut scores for eight wooldings, and woold away with well-stretch- 
 ed rope, of two-and-a-half inch. The yard may then be replaced 
 aloft. There will be found no necessity for studding-sail booma, 
 or other spare spars. 
 
 399 EXPECTATION OF LOSING A LOWEE MAST. 
 
 Every vessel should have a spare lower cap on board ; it should 
 be in two parts (for the convenience of stowing), with bolts for 
 securing it together. 
 
 In the event of losing a lower mast, the cap put on the spare 
 topmasts, and then raised on the stump of the lower mast (hav- 
 ing been previously fitted for it), at once enables a jury mast to 
 be stopped and secured ; clap on a good heel lashing. 
 
 Those vessels which have lower dead-eyes secured to the side, 
 are enabled to get clear of the wreck of a lower mast more read- 
 ily than those with the old channels and chain plates. Those 
 which are fitted in the last mentioned manner, when likely to 
 lose a lower mast, should reeve a hawser through the lanyards 
 of the rigging on each side, and have it well secured ; they will 
 then be enabled to disengage the lanyards from the channels, and 
 get clear of the wreck, whose thumping might otherwise injure 
 either the ship's bottom or rudder. 
 
 400.— LYING-TO IN A GALE, AFTEE THE LOSS OF 
 
 MASTS. 
 
 Put a stout span on a spare topmast or other large spar, and 
 veer a long scope on a hawser, or stream chain-cable, from the 
 bow, by a spring on it from aft ; it may be used for wearing. 
 The wreck of a mast would answer well for lying-to with, and 
 when the weather became fine, the spars and rigging would ma- 
 terially assist in refitting jury masts. 
 
 401.— SPAES TO CONVEET IN CASE OP NEED. 
 
 OflScers will do well to consider what spars they have on board 
 which can be the most readily and efficiently converted, so as to 
 supply the place of any which may be lost. 
 
220 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 A spare topmast, or if in a brig, a main-boom, are the spara 
 that could be the most quickly converted into a jury lower mast, 
 or bowsprit ; a mizen-mast would be still better, if the weathei 
 would permit its being shifted. 
 
 A topmast studding-sail boom, with the sail as a lug, makes a 
 sufficiently good m.izen. 
 
 If the bowsprit is sprung, let the jib-boom be eased m nearly 
 to the bulwark. When a vessel is lying- to, and there is a heavy 
 sea running, it would be prudent to have tackles up for steadymg 
 the foremast, as in the event of the bowspiit being struck, and 
 either sprung or carried away, the mast would be saved. 
 
 A jib-boom will answer well for making a topsail yard. 
 
 Note. — It is surprisuig how well vessels answer when jury rig- 
 ged, and in many cases will sail nearly as fast as when they 
 have there proper masts, yards, and sails. 
 
 Sails may be reduced by taking out midship cloths, and by the 
 head for depth. 
 
 When vessels take the ground, from a falling tide, or any other 
 cause, they ought to be prepared with three shores on a side, the 
 lower ends a little off. 
 
 The first abreast the foremast : 
 
 The second amidships : 
 
 The third abaft the main-sheet sheave. 
 
 A measure should be previously taken of the exact depth from 
 the bulwark to the ground. The lower end of the shores require 
 some weight, and a flat piece for a shoe siecured on each, if the 
 ground is soft. On the upper end of each shore there should be 
 a cleat on the fore side and after side, for securing the lashing to 
 the bulwark. 
 
 For small vessels, two shores on each side would be sufficient ; 
 one might be under the fore, and one under the main channel. 
 The preparation of shores will be found to be a very useful one ; 
 many vessels fall over on the water leaving them, and then run 
 considerable risk of filling, or not righting again. 
 
 402.— GETTING AGROUND. 
 
 If a vessel gets aground (the weather being moderate), first get 
 over the spare topmasts on one side, and the jib-boom on the other, 
 as shores abreast of the mainmast, or a little before it ; secure 
 some weight to the heel of each ; a few shot, or a light pig of bal- 
 last will do for that purpose, and if the ground is soft, nail on a 
 piece of plank as a shoe. Furl sails, out all boats, down topgal- 
 lant yards, and send topgallant masts on deck ; start water, and 
 pump it out ; lay out a bower anchor ; be sure that it is so laid 
 that the ship does not ground on it. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 221 
 
 Every officer should make himself well acquainted with the 
 readiest mode of hanging and carrying out a bower anchor, as 
 far as relates to the weight of those belonging to his own vessel, 
 and the description of boats he has to use. If he cannot heave 
 off, he must then endeavor to lighten the vessel by discharging 
 part of the cargo. 
 
 Before heaving off, an examination ought to be made, so as to 
 ascertain, as near as possible, the extent of the injury which the 
 vessel has received since aground, if the shore be rocky, that it 
 may be remedied before heaving off, if .possible ; if the vessel has 
 run on with much way, it is possible that she may not float, even 
 if she were got off. In this case the lives of the passengers and 
 crew become the first consideration. 
 
 403.— THE BALLAST SHIFTING AT SEA. 
 
 This frequently occasions losses at sea. To prevent its occur- 
 rence, when iron ballast is stowed, let a few oak battens be nailed - 
 from the sides athwart ships, to secure it ; or when shingle bal- 
 last is used, place a light flooring over it, secured by a few bat- 
 tens athwart ships. This would most probably prevent such a 
 calamity, which usually occurs when a vessel is struck by a 
 heavy sea, or when hove on her beam ends, and prevents the 
 possibihty of her righting again ; when the ballast is stowed, it 
 ought to be secured at the same time from shifting ; this is of 
 great moment, and a few strong battens will do it. Also have 
 shifting boards amidships, nailed to the stanchions. 
 
 404.— VESSELS SUKPEISED ON OPPOSITE TACKS, 
 
 In cases of surprise and danger, from the accidental meeting 
 of two ships on opposite tacks, in the night, it too often happens 
 that ofiicers are more apt to give orders to the stranger, than to 
 take any measure of precaution themselves ; such as hailing to 
 put the helm up or down, and to clear them, when they may be 
 as much in fault, and possess the same means of extricaUng 
 themselves from the difficulty. In situations of this sort, it is 
 much better that both parties should put their helms down rather 
 than up ; the ships will approach each other for a time, but will 
 diminish in velocity, and afterwards separate. 
 
 Obstinacy, or a want of judgment in the directing parties, he- 
 quently leads both vessels to bear up at the same instant ; con- 
 
223 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 sequently causing immediate collision. It is a universal rule 
 with seamen, that where there is doubt, the vessel on the lar- 
 board, tack is to bear up or to heave about, for the vessel on the 
 starboard tack ; were this prudent regulation strictly adhered 
 to, and never violated by the obstinacy of parties, accidents 
 would seldom occur; but it sometimes happens that incidental 
 circumstances induce both parties to risk "a trial of skill," by 
 one endeavoring to weather the other. In these cases doubt and 
 hesitation generally prevail, and disaster is sure to follow. 
 
 405.— MEETING- AT SEA. 
 
 Bend on the ensign and pendant, if a private ship 
 Hoist the ensign and pendant, when sufficiently near, if the 
 vessel you are meeting be a ship of war. 
 In hailing, the ordinary questions commence thus: 
 "What ship is that?" 
 "Whence come you?" 
 "Where are you bound?" «fec., (fcc. 
 
 406.— A HINT ON KUNNING TOO LONG. 
 
 Vessels ought not to run too long, when the sea is high and 
 breakmg, but brmg-to in time, and do so by daylight if possible 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 333 
 
 407.— A HINT ON ROUNDING-TO IN A GALE. 
 
 An experienced seaman remarks, that when he wished to 
 bring-to in a hard gale, when running befose a heavy sea, he 
 always watched for a heavy sea breaking abaft the main chains, 
 and immediately after, he eased the helm down, and rounded-to 
 at once, being previously prepared for doing so. In managing 
 this way, he found he could avoid shipping a sea. 
 
 408.— ON MAKING YOUR PORT. 
 
 Never run for your port in very heavy gales, or thick weather, 
 unless sure of the ship's position. 
 
 Note. — ^There are some ports, that may be entered with safety 
 at night by sailing vessels, but there are many more where it 
 cannot be attempted, without great risk of getting aground, or 
 being wrecked. 
 
 I do not know anything to compensate for running that risk, 
 except an urgent necessity ; as, when anchored, nothing can be 
 done until morning. Lay-to in preference, and carry a light at 
 the main-stay at night. Gales do not last long, and finer wea 
 ther follows. 
 
 While lying-to in gales, always keep the ship steeling with the 
 helm nearly " amidships," — never let it be kept " a lee," as the 
 ship will not be under command without steerage-way, or be 
 safe and easy. 
 
 409.— LYING OFF, AND ON, TO ENTER A PORT. ' 
 
 I have known so many vessels wrecked while lying-to with a 
 topsail to the mast, with their head in shore, that I recommend 
 (if it is moderate weather), to make short tacks, under easy sail, 
 as then the ship's place can always be kept worked up ; whereas 
 her drift while lying-to is uncertain. Let the tacks in shore be 
 shorter than the ones oflT, to give the coast a good berth. It ia 
 better lo be a mile further out than to get aground. 
 
 .^a??r^?i i iE 
 
224 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 410.— TO ANCHOR AND VEER A LONG SCOPE 
 OF CABLE. 
 
 Whenever, and wherever you anchor, veer a long scope of ca- 
 ble at once, — never lay short unless when getting underweigh. 
 No ship ought to lay at single anchor for more than a few hours. 
 Moor with a whole cable each way, as soon as possible. All ves- 
 sels ought to have swivels, and moor with one, to keep a clear 
 hawse. 
 
 Bend the sheet-cable, and see the anchor clear for letting go as 
 soon as you have moored. In the winter, be prepared for strik- 
 ing lower yards and topmasts, if necessary. 
 
 411.— PREPARATIONS FOR GOINQ INTO HARBOR. 
 
 The paint work outside should be scrubbed, and, if the wea- 
 ther permit, freshen up where most wanted — for instance, under 
 the bows. The masts should be scraped and properly stayed, 
 the tips of studding-sail booms painted, and the rigging slightly 
 touched with blacking, when brown or worn. The good order 
 of the ratlines should be attended to, swinging-boom ladders and 
 pendants got ready, and all the chafing-gear taken off. The 
 boats' sails and awnings should be clean and ready for use, the 
 masts and oars scraped, scrubbed, or painted, as required ; the 
 smokesail clean, also the wind-sails. Clean hammocks may be 
 slung, and neatly stowed. The cables (including the sheet, if it 
 blows hard), should be bent in plenty of time, «fcc. «fcc. The 
 ship's company clean and in uniform— the accommodation lad- 
 der got ready, and in good order for shipping when at anchor. 
 
 412.— CAUTIONS AT NIGHT— (LOOKOUTS). 
 
 A good lookout should be kept at night. As soon as it is 
 dark, every vessel should carry a light under the fore-top ; this 
 should be a rule, and not even left optional. If this light were 
 carried in a lantern with green glass, the distinguishing light of 
 a sailing vessel would be known. Steamers on the coast, bays, 
 or harbors, usually carry wheel-house lights, as well as a mast- 
 head one. 
 
 The sea-going steamers mostly carry two horizontal lights — 
 they are therefore easily distinguished. Sailing vessels on the 
 
OK VOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 225 
 
 coast ought always to have a light kept on deck (in a tub or 
 bucket, for shading it), ready to be shown, as steamers sometimes 
 come up astern. 
 
 A musket loaded with blank cartridge is useful as a signal to 
 call attention, and should be kept ready at hand. 
 
 A vessel on the starboard tack should show a light at the lee- 
 cathead. A vessel on the' larboard tack should show a light on 
 the weather cathead. 
 
 413.— WHEN TWO VESSELS AEE IN COLLISION. 
 
 If in a tide's way, and in less than ten fathoms, the headmost 
 one should anchor either with a stream or bower, as most con- 
 venient. 
 
 If on soundings from thirty to ten fathoms, the headmost ves- 
 sel should drop a kedge-anchor. 
 
 If vessels get foul of each other in deep water (should the 
 weather be sufficiently moderate), get a boat ahead of the head- 
 most and another astern of the sternmost, and two apart in op- 
 posite ways. 
 
 If a vessel anchor too close in another's hawse, the one next 
 ahead of her should send her a tow-line, with which she might 
 pass a hawser on board to enable her to warp clear. 
 
 4 1 4.— SQUALLS— (CAUTION). 
 
 They usually give some notice by gathering up l^lack in the 
 horizon. If the darkness rises up and thins away at the bottom, 
 it will not be strong ; but if it still continues thick in the horizon, 
 expect wind. Shorten sail before it comes. Clouds high, with 
 hard edges, denote dry and strong winds. A large halo around 
 the moon betokens high wind. Be guarded when clouds pass 
 overhead — the strength of the wind is then very often most felt. 
 
 415.— WATER SPOUTS— (CAUTION). 
 
 A Tp-ater-spout appears like a speaking-trumpet, with the small 
 ends downwards. (It is said the concussion caused by ijimg 
 guns is likely to disperse it.) If one should be near, and likely 
 15 
 
226 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 to break on board, clew-iip and fnil all (see the topsail clew-lines 
 are afterwards belayed) batten the hatches, have scupper clear 
 and pumps ready, and spar-deck ports out. 
 
 416.— PRESSUKE OF WATER AT DIFFERENT 
 DEPTHS. 
 
 If a ship has the flattest part of her bottom lying sixteen feet 
 deep (which is often the case), the Avater then presses sixteen 
 times as much upwards against this flat part, as it does upon 
 any part of the same ship about the waters' edge ; and so on any 
 other part, according to the depth. For example, suppose this 
 ship to have four leaks, or plug holes of equal size, that could be 
 driven out occasionally — the first at one foot under water, the 
 second at four feet, the third at nine feet, and the lowest at six- 
 teen feet, in the fiat part of her bilge; that hole at four feet deep 
 would leak or let in as much water again, in the same time, as 
 that at one foot; and that at nine feet, three times as much; 
 and that at sixteen feet, four times as much, though it run into 
 the ship upwards ; and so on in proportion to the square root of 
 the height of the water above the leak or plug hole. Therefore 
 leaks in ships are more or less dangerous, according to their 
 depth under water. 
 
 Note— On first springing a leak, it .will rush in faster until the 
 water inside is as high as the place where the leak is ; and will 
 pour ill less the higher it gets inside. 
 
 417.— ON STOPPING- LEAKS. 
 
 If we reflect on the present mode, so constantly practiced, of 
 watering, by means of a canvass hose from the shore, through 
 the salt-water into the boat, we can have little doubt of the reten- 
 tive power of canvass. When it can be at all ascertained where 
 a leak is situated (provided it be not too near the keel, or too 
 much in the run), if it be in any part where you can bring a sail 
 in contact with it, so as to cover it, remember that a canvass 
 hose, when once saturated, becomes tolerably water-tight. If 
 part of a sail of No. 1 canvass be doubled and brought by ropes 
 to cover the leak, though it may not stop it, there can be' no 
 doubt it will materially assist in reducing it. 
 
 This canvass must be well and strongly roped g.nd stitched 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 227 
 
 together, and it had better not be too large ; the smaller it is, 
 (provided tlie purpose be answered), the better ; as it will be less 
 likely to be torn away. In placing it, the rope ought to be out- 
 wards. This double canvass may be placed in its position by 
 ropes under the keel or out of the hawse-hole. A sail might be 
 used for this purpose. 
 
 418.— EXAMINATION OF CHAIN CABLES. 
 
 The cables must be got on deck, pins and bolts driven out of 
 the shackles, and well cleaned and white leaded ; every link 
 sounded with a hammer by the armorer, and some of the lengths 
 transposed. Splicing pieces and spare shackles should be re- 
 membered at the same time, and treated in the same way. 
 
 Note. — Wooden pins are frequently used in connecting the 
 shackles, not being liable to rust, and can always be taken out 
 easy. Hickcvy is the best wood to make them of. 
 
 419.— MINUTE GUNS. 
 
 If more than one ship be present, minute guns are not usually 
 fired by all at the same time, as in a common saiute, but one 
 ship follows another, taking up the firing in succession. 
 
 The interval between the firing of each two guns must of 
 course be determined by the number of guns to be fired, and the 
 time through which they are to be prolonged — a point which is 
 optional, and sometimes extended through the day. 
 
228 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 420.— HOISTING ON BOAKD MONEY OE PLATE. 
 
 In hoisting on board money, plate, or other valuables, a buoy 
 and buoy-i'ope, corresponding to. the depth of water, ought always 
 to be attached thereto, that in case of anything giving way, or 
 the money or plate going to the bottom, there may be a ready 
 means of recovery at hand. For boxes of treasure, strong nets, 
 in place of slings, are most useful and most safe. 
 
 Note. — Money nets are made like a common wad-net, except- 
 ing that the meshes are made smaller and the stuff laiger, say 
 of a two-inch rope. 
 
PART VIII. 
 
 421.— STOWING HAMMOCKS. 
 
 Nothing adds more to the smart and favorable appearance of 
 a vessel of war than a neat stowage of hammocks. The superin- 
 tendants of this necessary duty are often at fault, forgetting that 
 negligence in the performance of this service is seldom permitted 
 to pass unnoticed. 
 
 In the stowage of hammocks, the oflBcer should stand on the 
 opposite side of the deck, a position which will enable him to 
 
 E reserve a symmetrical line, and guide and direct the stower in 
 is progress fore and aft the netting ; they are also enjoined to 
 be careful that the hammocks of the men be properly lashed up. 
 Defaulters in this particular should be reported to the First Lieu- 
 tenant. Seven turns at equal distances, is the required number 
 of turns with a hammock-lashing. 
 
 Note. — In piping-down hammocks, the oflBcers are cautioned 
 not to permit the men to throw them on the deck. 
 
 tASmsa UP HAMMOCKS. 
 
230 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 422.— COCKBILLING Y AB.BS— {Mourning). 
 
 The most appropriate time for cockbilling yards seems to be 
 daylight, and dark the most proper time for squaring them again; 
 the day then looks as if it were issued in and closed with mourn- 
 ing. 
 
 At 8, or the hour of hoisting the colors half-mast, sway up the 
 top-gallant yards, slip the lizard, parrel the yards, and cockl)ill 
 them with the others previously reversed. 
 
 To allow the lower yards to top up properly, the trusses itiusl 
 be slacked ; and if the topsail sheets are of chain and go with a 
 whip, one of them must be unshackled from the clew, and to as- 
 sist the lift in topping, a burton is required. 
 
 To allow the topsail yards to top up properl)'-, they must be 
 hoisted two feet or so off the caps, the parrels and braces must 
 be slacked, and paunch mats taken out ; if there are jaws on, 
 slack the jaw-rope. Trysail and spanker gaff should be lowered 
 well down, and swinging booms dropped into the water. 
 
 The way of topping the yards ought to be governed by the 
 side an which the top-gallant yards are sent up : for instance, 
 if the main-top-gallant yard be sent up on the starboard side, the 
 main and main-topsail yards should be topped to porf. The 
 squaring them, when topped, should be done with reference to 
 lower yards ; which, in the first place, are topped as high as the 
 top rims will allow ; then being squared by the braces, the top 
 sail and top-gallant yards have only to be parallel. 
 
 423 — DRESSING SHIP WITH FLAGS. 
 
 Though in some particulars the following remarks on dressing 
 with flags refer peculiarly to ships in general, they are applicable 
 to all classes of vessels ; so much so indeed, that but little varia- 
 tion will be found necessary in applying them to line-of-battle 
 ships, and so on down to a schooner. 
 
 ' One mode of dressing a ship with flags is to make an arch of 
 them from the flying-jib-boom to the spanker-boom-end ; another 
 is to trice the flags up by the signal halliards, stopping them out 
 to the yard-arms : but the best way, perhaps, is to combine these 
 two modes, if there be flags enough. Hoisted to the trucks ought 
 to be the ensign, jack, or the flags of the nation in Avhose port 
 the ship is lying, oi- whom it is wished particularly to honor ; 
 and to give these room to display themselves, the rest of the flags 
 should only be triced as high as the top-gallant mast-head. 
 
 If it be determined to combine the two modes of dressing, as 
 mentioned above, that is, with up and down flags, as well -.,, 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 331 
 
 with an arch, it will prevent confusion and superabundance, and 
 produce an equally good effect to have up and down flags at the 
 main only ; and to hoist them, whips or halliards should be 
 placed for the purpose, through the top-gallant studding-sail hal- 
 liard blocks, and taken outside the brace blocks. 
 
 The flying-jib halliards will hoist the foremost part of the 
 arch, viz. : that which extends from the flying-boom-end to the 
 fore-top-gallant mast-head. To the mizen-top-gallant mast-head 
 it must be hoisted by a whip placed for the purpose, and hauled 
 out to the gaff-end by a whip. 
 
 From the gaff-end the flags composing the arch drop to the 
 water, being stopped out to the boom-end, and distended under 
 it, as well as under the flying-boom, by small hand-leads : there 
 ought also to be downhauls on the arch ; also whips with down- 
 hauls between top-gallant mast-heads. Care and taste are ne- 
 cessary in sorting and placing the flags. The ensigns should be 
 in corresponding places — for instance at the lower yard-arms. 
 The square flags should all be together ; also cornets, pendants, 
 &c., or else a square flag and cornet alternately, and so on. 
 
 Bad feeling is sometimes occasioned, when foreign ships-of-war 
 are assembled, by placing national colors injudiciously, in dress- 
 ing ship. This ought to be studiously avoided. This fact has 
 given rise to the practice, on " gala days," of hoisting nothing but 
 the national flags at each mast-head, or, if in honor of another 
 nation, the flag of tliat nation at the fore. 
 
 One principal beauty, however, of the manoeuvre in question, 
 is to have everything so prepai-ed and foreseen, that immediately 
 the yards are crossed, and decently squared, and the mast-head 
 flags broke, all the others may be triced up so as to find their 
 
 t)laces readily and without confusion, hands previousl}'^ prepared, 
 aying-out together at the same time to each yard-arm, stopping 
 the up and down flag-halliards there : and then at the " word," 
 laying-in together. 
 
 At sunset, the best way, perhaps, is to haul the flags down 
 just before sending down the top-gallant yards. 
 
 424.— KEEPING THE COPPER CLEAN. 
 
 The good or bad condition of the copper on a ship's bottom 
 above the water line, has a wonderful effect upon her appearance. 
 If daubed over with blacking, or otherwise neglected, when pos- 
 sible to attend to it, a slovenly appearance is communicated to 
 the outside look which a ship of war ought to be exempt from. 
 
 One way of managing is to scrub off all spots, and rub it. oc- 
 casionally with an oily cloth, when there is leisure ; and if this 
 is constantly attended to, perhaps it is the best and simplest plan, 
 although I have heard yachts find river mud better. 
 
232 THE KEDGE-ANCHOK; 
 
 Another way is to paint it with red ochre and oil, mixed to the 
 color of new copper. When well and effectually done, this will 
 preserve a good appearance for a long time ; but the finest and 
 calmest weather must be taken advantage of to lay it on, as the 
 least ripple will wash all off in its way when wet. 
 
 To clean the copper under the water line, seize on to a handy 
 spar of sufficient length, half-a-dozen strong, coarse deck clamps, 
 and apply them against the ship's bottom from a stage, if it can 
 be got ; if not, from the largest boat, previously keeling the ship, 
 by running the guns in on one side, and out on the other. The 
 copper of a small vessel may be comp-letely cleaned in this way. 
 
 If the copper on the trysail mast, and fore and main-masts of 
 brigs and schooners be attended to and kept clean, it tends very 
 much to the appearance of the vessel. The most common obsta- 
 cle to this is grease, which generates verdigris excessively, but 
 may be easily prevented by attention. 
 
 425 — FURLING FROM A BOWLINE. 
 
 The stress of the work here being on the bunt-lines and clew- 
 ropes, but few hands are required on the topsail clew-lines. 
 
 Words of Command. 
 
 Call— "All hands furl sails." 
 
 Man the bunt-lines and clew-lines (uicluding the clew-ropea 
 and head downhauls). 
 
 " Aloft, top-men ; " — stand by to furl sails. 
 
 " Aloft, lower yard-men ; "—haul taut— shorten sail— lay-out. 
 
 Furl-away, gather up, and pass the gaskets ;— lay in off the 
 yards ;— stand by the booms. Down booms— rig them out to the 
 mark ; — square the heels. Square yards, stopping up gear at 
 the same time. When the yards are squared by the braces, the 
 boatswam ought to hurry ahead, to square them by the lifts. 
 At the same time haul taut the bow-lines, jib and staysail-hal- 
 liards, and see all the clew-lines close up. 
 
 When the yards are squared by the lifts, haul taut topsail and 
 top-gallant sheets, and reef-tackles, as well" as all other slack 
 ropes, (heels of the studding-sail square, &c. Sec.) 
 
 Note.— The topsail and top-gallant sheets and reef-tackles 
 ought not previously to be hauled taut, because they then inter 
 fere with squaring the yards by the hfts. 
 
 Remarks.— The tacks and sheets are generally kept unrove 
 m harbor, and the courses hauled up by the clew-rope? one bunt- 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 233 
 
 line and leech-line of a side ; the topsails by the bunt-lines only 
 led through a lizard at the clews, or clew jiggers. The hauE 
 down of the headsails ismuch fa'cilitated by having the haS 
 racked and overhauled at the mast-head, and a haSd there ready 
 to cut the racking, when the word is given to shorten sail. 
 
 426.— HIGH AND LOW BUNTS. 
 
 Low, or roUing bunts, require bunt-gaskets, and are tedious in 
 stowing and securing snug— high, or French bunts, require no 
 gaskets, but secure to the topsail-tye by a becket and stopped 
 Being larger, and more open abaft, the slack sail is more easily 
 stowed m them than in low bunts ; neither is any time or labor 
 lost about bunt-gaskets, a circumstance not to be overlooked in 
 competing with other vessels. ' 
 
 The look is a matter of taste ; in general, however, topsail- 
 yards are thought neatest, with first or second-reefed earings 
 hauled partly out, but neither reef-points tied, nor bunt-gaskets 
 on ; the bunt described is a French bunt, being secured to the 
 tye by a midship-becket in the first reef band, and the sail furled 
 in the skin of the first reef and back-cloths. 
 
 Note. — The proper place for the fuiiing-glutt, is two-thirds of 
 the depth of first reef 
 
 427.— TO CLEAK MAST-HEADS. 
 
 Clear mast-heads form a distinguishing mark of a ship-of-war. 
 
 To make them so, the eyes of the rigging ought to be carefully 
 
 placed, boused down a-midships by the mast, and beat down at 
 
 the mast-head with a commander, and the shrouds set up in 
 
 their places with care. The eyes of the stays, and the slings of 
 
 the lower yards, ought also to be sent down over all, and nothing 
 
 more should be on the lower mast-heads, observable to the eye. 
 
 Over topmast-heads the ginn-blocks ought to go first, with a 
 
 span lashing to the pendants, so as to take them close up to the 
 
 trestle-trees; rigging and stays, same as lower mast-heads — 
 
 standing parts of ties, through a score in the heel of tof^allant- 
 
 mast, inside of the trestle-trees, and taken abaft the mast-head 
 
 and lashed together close down on top of the stays. It would be 
 
 well to put a quarter-seizing on each side, around both stay and 
 
 tye. This does away with the not uncommon, but slovenly 
 
 practice, of hitching the standing part of the topsail-tye over the 
 
234 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 rigging, and expending the end, by heaping it up with five oi 
 six turns half-way to the cap. 
 
 Opinions are divided as to whether mast-heads painted white, 
 or black, look the best. This is a matter of taste; but it is a 
 matter of certainty, that black shades and conceals, while white 
 tends to display, what a seaman is proud of, the neatness and 
 good order of his rigging, which should not be concealed by a 
 white canvass mast-coat. 
 
 The neatest mast-heads I ever saw were painted white, with the 
 upper half of the top-rims and lower-half of the caps of the same 
 color ; the lower half of the top rims, and the upper half of tlie 
 caps, being black; thus the large space of white was terminated 
 and relieved above and below, by a neat, small, but distinct line 
 of black. The topmast cross-trees, topmast-heads, and lower 
 halves of topmast-caps were also white ; upper half of caps black. 
 Topmasts scraped close up to the cross-trees, the eyes of the top- 
 gallant and royal rigging covered with canvass, in place of ser- 
 vice, and painted black — no paint above topmast-head caps, nor 
 outside of the bowsprit-cap. With clear mast-heads, ought to be 
 combined ntiat tops, wherein the ropes are flemished, and kept 
 low and snug. 
 
 428,— PLACING BELAYING-CLEATS IN TOPS. 
 
 If the belaying-cleats for studding-sail tacks and halliards, top- 
 gallant and royal lifts, and royal sheets, are placed on the cross- 
 pieces, or carlines of tops, and not on the shrouds or mast-heads, 
 the rigging there will look much neater. 
 
 439.— MAKING SWABS. 
 
 Old ropB, called junk, is unlaid into yarns. Make a grommet 
 with a good strand ; then take some of the yarns of the junk, 
 take the twist or lay well out, and middle them in the grommet, 
 and continue to fill up (to the size required), close to the grom- 
 met; clap on a good seizing of spun-yarn, and then, if wished, 
 snake it ; sometimes the handle, or grommet, is made by splicing 
 both end;? together, the splice laying in the head of the swab. 
 In making the grommet, the ends of the strands should not be 
 nut off, but seized-in with the rest of the swab. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 235 
 
 430.— STOWAGE OF SWABS. 
 
 Swabs in the head aiean eye-sore; attention should be direct- 
 ed to the contrivance of some other stow-hole for them to which 
 they should be rigorously confined, except when in use.' 
 
 431.— JUNK. 
 
 Junk is supplied for the purpose of working up into various 
 uses— such as intoswabs, spun-yarn, knittle-stufF, lacings, seiz- 
 mgs, earings, gaskets, <fcc., &c.,— all of which the supply in 
 proper kmd is generally inadequate. Good junk is got out of 
 such materials as condemned cables — they having been necessa- 
 rily made of the best stuff, and condemned before being much 
 injured. Old messengers, old rigging, &c., make bad junk, not 
 being condemned generally until much worn. 
 
 Of the worst junk swabs and spun-yarn should be made ; of 
 the best, knittle and seizing-stuff, lacings, earings, &c. The seiz- 
 ing-stuff is intended for blocks, ratlines, «fcc. ; the knittle stuff for 
 making mats, as well as lacings and earings, for studding-sails, 
 boats' sails, &c., and the spun-yarn for fitting and refitting. A sur- 
 plus Slock of all these ought constantly to be at hand, in store, 
 for the purpose of refitting or repla(;ing anything that may hap- 
 pen to be carried away, without loss of time. In order to effect 
 this, the watch, on deck, or part of them, ought to be constantly 
 at work about the junk, when circumstances permit, drawing, 
 knotting, and balling of yarns, and assisting the ropemaker in 
 laying up the above mentioned small stuff, either till the junk la 
 exhausted, or till there is an ample stock on hand. 
 
 Large junk, such as lengths of cables, should be unlaid before 
 being put below, that it may admit of being snugly stowed. 
 
 432.— MAKING MATS, AND CHAFING GEAR. 
 
 The breadth of mg.ts for lanyards of rigging, is determined by 
 the size of the dead-eye, which the mat ought nearly to cover ; 
 the length by the distance from the upper to the lower dead-eye. 
 For lacing, small beckets should be worked in each corner and 
 side. The mats on the foremost swifters of the lower rigging 
 and backstays, should be longer than the othei-s, on account of 
 the foot and clew of the courses, when reefed and hauled aft, 
 grinding against them high up ; or shifting mats for that esnecial 
 
236 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 
 
 purpose should be kept, to put on at sea and take off in l.aibor. 
 Thrum-mats are required for the paunch of lower topsail and 
 topgallant yards, to prevent chafing. Those that follow are only 
 required at sea; so that for neatness and economy, they may al- 
 ways be taken oil" when going into harbor. 
 
 To take the chafe off the rigging, when the lower yards are 
 braced up, a large square hanging mat is required, thrummed on 
 each side of the futtock-shrouds. This has a lanyard in each 
 corner, and is clapped on thereby, with the upper half on the 
 foremost futtock-shrouds, the lower half on the foremost swifters ; 
 the middle part being in a line with the catharpens. 
 
 On each side of the bunts of the courses, before all, a thrum- 
 mat is requisite, to prevent the head of the sail chafing against 
 the stay where they come in contact, when the yards are braced 
 up. A breeches-mat is also required on the stay itself, for the 
 same pu rpose. Small, square, neat mats, in the way of leech-lines, 
 on each side, are also necessary, to prevent chafing. 
 
 To prevent the topsail yards, when braced up, from chafing 
 the foremost shrouds of the topmast rigging, a quarter mat abaft 
 the yards on each side, is required. 
 
 A thrum-mat is necessajy on the horn of each foremast cross- 
 tree, to prevent their wearing holes in the topgallant sails. 
 
 For the backstays, in the wake of the lower yards, when braced 
 up, mats or platting, or some such substitute, is necessary as a 
 protection. Merchant vessels use Scotsmen [slips of wood so 
 called] ; but for ships of war, I think leather, snugly stitched and 
 kept on in harbor, as well as at sea, is the best. 
 
 In a brig, the boom-mainsail will sometimes have a hole fretted 
 in it, by chafing against the quarter boat's staiichions, or the be- 
 laying cleats there ; these ought therefore to be protected by mats. 
 
 433.— GASKETS. 
 
 There is a great risk of gaskets marking and spoiling the looks 
 of the sails, if not thoroughly dried before behig used. 
 
 The number of sea-gaskets must depend upon the size of the 
 ehip ; the smallest, however^ such as a schooner oi brig, requiring 
 four for each side of lower yards, and the same for topsail yards. 
 For topgallant and royal yards, half the number is enough : for 
 boom mamsail, six ; for jib and flying-jib, five each. 
 
 Harbor-gaskets answer best with one end tapered and the 
 other woiied with an eye. By reeving and unreeving the taper- 
 ed end through the eye, and round the jackstay, they are then 
 easily put on or taken off. Their length ought to be sufiicient 
 for a round turn round the sail and yard, with enough of end to 
 
OR VOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 237 
 
 tack in and secure between the sail and round turn abaft, or 
 rather, on upper quarter abaft. Their breadth is a matter of 
 fancy, but broad ones are generally preferred. They should be 
 carefully placed upon the yards, as nearly as possible, at equal 
 distances. 
 
 Ab^e.— If any long gaskets are used, half the number is 
 sufficient. 
 
 434.— SCRAPING AND GREASING MASTS. 
 
 When the blacking of the rigging is dry, the masts ought to 
 be scraped and cleaned, then greased. For the men to stand 
 upon when scraping the lower masts, rig triangles of capstan 
 bars, with whips to the mast-heads ; for hoisting and lowering, 
 with the topmasts, handspikes answer instead of capstan bars, 
 and the^royal and topgallant masts may be managed from a bow- 
 line in tlie end of a girt-line, or a span from shroud to shroud. 
 
 To prevent spotting the deck, the deck-cloths ought to be spread, 
 and some hands kept constantly sweeping up the shavings. 
 
 The topgallant and royal yard-arms should not be neglected- 
 The studding-sail booms, except when new, ought to have the 
 least possible shaving taken off them by a carpenter, and then 
 varnished. This does not injure them more than scraping, and 
 keeps them infinitely smoother. 
 
 Before laying on the grease, the captains of the tops, &c., 
 should report that everything is scraped and ready, and the 
 boatswain should examine. 
 
 Note. — ^It is customary in some ships first to scrape masts, 
 then tar down the rigging, and lastly paint; but there is objec- 
 tions to this, as the men are liable to daub the masts when tar- 
 ring down, and they would have to be done over again. 
 
 Studding-sail booms should never be greased, as they are liable 
 to daub the sail. 
 
 435.— MANNING YARDS. 
 
 if nreviously aware that the yards are to be manned in the 
 course of the day, clap on iife-lines instantly ; the topgallant and 
 royal yards are crossed in the morning, the hands laying out and 
 in together ; then square yards. 
 
238 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Fewer men being required for manning yards than furling 
 sails, those required for the former tnay be ciisily sized and se- 
 lected from among the latter, keeping them always on their re- 
 spective yards — the tallest outside. 
 
 The yard-arm men extend their outside arms straight, liolding 
 on by the studding-sail halliards, whilst they clap their inner arms 
 over the life-lines, holding it fast under the arm-pit ; the next 
 man in the same way extends his outer arm, and grapples the 
 shoulder of the yard-arm man ; then passes his inner arm over 
 the life-Une, clasping it under his arm-pit, and so on to tlie bunl. 
 
 The appearance of the boat, at whatever distance it may be, 
 is the customary signal for manning yards ; yet it would be at 
 times a preferable rule to endeavor to judge of the distance, and 
 act so that the men may not be more than ten minutes or a 
 quarter of an hour aloft. 
 
 The men on the yards ought to face the boat; that is, when 
 the boat is abaft the beam, they ought to face aft ; when before 
 the beam, forward : but in a ship, when the commodore* ascends 
 the side, the hand on the cross-jack and mizen-topsail yards 
 ought to face forward — all others as before, aft. 
 
 436.— MAN KOPES— (SIDE). 
 
 If side or man-ropes be covered with canvass or baize, the 
 stitches should be taken through tlie strands of the rope, to pre- 
 vent the covering getting out of its place, and puckering ; and 
 to take the chafe or nip in the wako of the eye-bolt, through 
 which they reeve, a small bit of leather should be neatly stitch- 
 ed on. 
 
 The handsomest and most durable man-ropes are those en- 
 tirely pointed over with neat, small hne. The job is a tedious 
 one, but worth the expense and trouble. 
 
 437.— SPARE DEAD-EYES. 
 
 A good plan for spare dead-eyes of rigging is to have them in 
 two pieces, and with small bolts fixing them together, so that in 
 the event of carrying one away, it can be easily replaced, with- 
 out havmg to taJ^e chain, plate and all to a -smiths' shop. 
 
 • Or the personage whom it is intended to honor. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 438 HIDE ROPE, 
 
 239 
 
 _ Where there is much and coatinued friction, or a short nip, 
 hide rope is found to have great advantage over heinp ; some 
 say thirty per cent. Thus it is good for wheel-ropes, whip for 
 hatchway, topsail-ties, trusses, topgallant and royal sheets and 
 yard ropus, parrels, jib-pendants, lacings, reef-pendants and lash 
 mg, studding-sail tacks and halliards. 
 
 For preservation above deck, hide rope should have a coating 
 of two parts of grease and one of tar ; below deck, a coat of 
 neats' foot oil. When not wanted, such as wheel-ropes in har- 
 bor, it should be kept under cover. 
 
 Note. — Hide rope is now allowed by regulation for tailing all 
 sheets, also for ties, truss, pendants, cfcc, &c. (^e rigging table.) 
 
 439.— HAWSE-HOLE WINDSAIL. 
 
 A windsail to carry the great draught of the hawse-holes down 
 into the holds, «fec., is a very useful thing, though not common. 
 
 440.— FIGHTING LADDERS. 
 
 Some ship-3 have fighting ladders of rope always set up, ready, 
 and the wooden ones for common use placed against them. 
 
 Note. — Iron Jacob's-ladders fitted amidships in hatchways are 
 very useful in the morning when washing decks, or at quarters, 
 when the wooden ladders are unshipped. 
 
 441. —HAWSE BUCKLERS. 
 
 Bucklers are of two sorts ; half-buckle ;s, shipped when the 
 cables are bent, and blind-bucklei-s when they are unbent. The 
 object of the first is to prevent shipping water through the hawse- 
 holes, while the cables are bent, and are put on, after filling 
 with shakings the hawse-hole through which the cable runs ; 
 tliey are secured by upriglit, iron bars, slipping on and off upon 
 grooves above and below. 
 
240 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Blind-bncklers are put on after a plug (called hawse-plug, of 
 the size of the hawse-hole) has been thrust in. They are secured 
 the same way as the half-bucklers. , , ,, 
 
 When the cables are ordered to be clear for running, the halt- 
 bucklers should be unshipped. 
 
 JVo^e.— Half-bucklers are made with a score to fit the cable. 
 
 442.— MAKING FAST A WAKP TO A VESSEL. 
 
 The best place for making a warp fast to, is the bitts, after pass- 
 ing through the spare hawse-hole : there it will not interfere with 
 the side or paint work ; is perfectly clear, quite secure, and ready 
 to let go in an instant. If made fast to the cables, which is next 
 best, it is more difficult to let go. 
 
 443.— FITTING QUARTER BOATS' GRIPES. 
 
 Boats' gripes are made with spun-yarn or small 
 sword-mat : one end is secured round the davit-head, the other, 
 when the boat is up, passed under her bottom, and secured in 
 the chains with a lashing. 
 
 444.— FITTING GIGS' SLINGS. 
 
 Gigs' slings are made as sword mats. When sufficient is made 
 to take the boat's bottom and clear the gunwales, the spun-yarn, 
 or rope between each part, is fitted as a stopper or selvagee, par- 
 celed and served over, and a thimble seized in the bight, whicl: 
 the tackles hook to. The stretches, made of wood, are put be- 
 tween both parts of the slings, long enough to keep them two or 
 three inches off the gunwale. 
 
 For the span, measure the length from the after ring-bolts to 
 the slings ; when in their place, leave six inches for splicing, and 
 cut the rope ; measure from the after-slings to the fore ones, 
 leaving about six inches and cut ; measure from the fore-slings 
 to the ring-bolt in the stern and cut : splice a hook and thimble 
 in the ends, the other ends splice together, forming two cut splices, 
 large enough to go over the thimbles in the slings, and seize 
 them in their place. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 241 
 
 te. — Some prefer artificial eyes worked in the ends of the 
 3, to go over the end of the stretcher ; this is not so safe. 
 
 ;.— SCKUBBING- A BOAT'S BOTTOM, ON LEAVING 
 HAEBOR. 
 
 frequently happens in preparing for sea, a lai^* boat's bot- 
 such as a launch, or any other boom boat, requireC cleaning, 
 there happens to be no place at hand to haul her up on 
 3, in preference to hoisting her up and doing it aboard, and 
 ing a great muss on deck ; hoist her out of the water by 
 at, and another tackle to the bowsprit, and scrub her bottom 
 another boat (or catamaran). 
 
 446.— CARRYING LIGHT BOATS ON LAND. 
 
 he best way to cary a boat, is to upset her, and let the men, 
 their jackets on their shoulders, (or some such protection 
 
 nst the sharp pressure of the gunwale,) stand under and 
 
 the gunwales on each side on their shoulders ; some hands 
 also be advantageously placed in amidships under the 
 
 irts. 
 
 16 
 
242 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 447.— MISCELLANEOUS NOTES ON WORKING 
 BOATS. 
 
 If a boat be crank, or if it be wished in working to windward 
 to accelerate speed, all hands should sit down in the bottom of 
 the boat. If in haste, working to windward, pull the weather oars. 
 
 A boat with only one sail, such as a lug, should never attempt 
 beating to windward, except when necessary to give the crew a 
 spell. 
 
 Let no one ever sit on the gunwale, but accustom the crew to 
 sit in their places, and to make and shorten sail without stirring 
 from their seats. Besides the due execution of this manoeuvre, 
 the safety of the boat is much implicated in the degree of atten- 
 tion paid to this rule. 
 
 In taking in a lug sail, lower the halliards and haul down on 
 the weather-leach. 
 
 Note- — Keep boats out of the water as much as possible. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 448.— DUTIES OF BOATS' CEEWS. 
 
 243 
 
 A SHIP OP war's launch. 
 
 (thing sooner indicates the ordev and disciphne ot a vessel 
 ir, than the clean state and efficient condition of the boats, 
 her with the personal appearance of their crews. In this par- 
 ir, sufficient care is not always observed in the service ; in 
 regulated ships, the coxswains are compelled to report to 
 enior lieutenant the state of their respective boats, and in 
 lorning to ascertain from the officer of the boat, the man- 
 le may require the crews to be dressed for the day &c., <fcc. 
 
 149.— BOATS GOING ON DISTANT SEEVICE, 
 
 imoranda of articles required for distant service — ^viz. : spy- 
 compass, pencil and paper, chart, watch, lead and line, 
 
 r-box, grapnel and rope, stern-fast, hammer, nails, spike for 
 spare rope, (size of boat's gear,) spare tiller, spare oars, blue- 
 
 I, lanterns and candles, casks or kegs for water, arm-chest, 
 
 t-.,,.^ »»-..^„, ^^-..^i^n. -v^ »«» -^nn n^n*^ ^'v\ttf(^ir\rv -fi-iv nova "fian* 
 
244 
 
 THE KEDQE-aNCHOR; 
 
 mff-lines iron pot, fuel, each man a knife, an axe, a maul, a crow 
 bar, needles, twine, colors, rations for the boat's crew at discretion. 
 
 450.— BOATS UNDER SAIL. 
 
 I / 
 
 A SHIP OF war's CUTTEE.. 
 
 Oaie should be taken that the halliards be coiled up clear for 
 running, that the sheets be not belayed, and that the crew m 
 shortening sail to a squall, do not shift their seats, or, as is too 
 common a custom, stand upon the thwarts to gather m the shak- 
 ing sail; in lowering a lug, or lateen sail, haul down alone on 
 the luff, (the fore-leech ;) the after one better be left untouched. 
 
 Coxswains should also be cautioned of the danger of letting 
 ffo the helm. This is often inadvertently done wrong'--'Some- 
 times to secure the heel of the bumkin, or to get a pull ot the 
 main or mizen-sheet. By this thoughtless practice, boats are 
 liable to fly up in the wind, the sails to be taken aback, be ditn- 
 cult to lower, and eventually to cant over and capsize to wind- 
 ward. 
 
 451.— GIVING A ROPE TO A BOAT. 
 
 When a boat from a lee-tide, or running-sea, requires from the 
 ship the aid of a rope, care must be taken that the tow-lme be 
 passed as far forward as possible. The position of the fore-chan- 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 245 
 
 nels is too far aft, and causes too short a scope. The tow-line 
 should be passed from the cat-head, with a slip-rope to the crown 
 of the spare or sheet-anchor, which, if slacked when the bowman 
 secures the tow-line, the boat will ride with a good scope, and 
 with comparative ease. 
 
 Caution. — The tow-line should never be made fast to the ring 
 in the bow of the boat ; it should be passed through the ring by 
 way of a fair-leader, and eventually secured to the bottom of the 
 boat or thwart. 
 
 Mooring boats. — Boats are best moored at the guess-swarp- 
 boom. In this position they ride under the eye of the officer of 
 the deck, and are less liable to be damaged than when secured 
 alongside, or moored astern. 
 
 Boat-keepers, unless especially called to assist in the execution 
 of urgent or heavy service, should never be permitted to leave 
 their boats. 
 
 452.— CROSSING A BAR WITH SURF, IN BOATS. 
 
 As a boat will not rise over surf as over an unbroken wave, 
 but on the contrary, the surf boils over and into the boat, the 
 less surface there is presented, and the higher it is out of the 
 water, the better. For this reason a boat ought to be kept stem 
 on, or right before it, when the heaviest waves approach, waiting 
 till they are past, to pursue her way edgeways across the bar. 
 
 Stem on is the safest, the smallest surface and the strongest 
 and highest part of the boat being in that way presented to the 
 surf, while the rudder and oars possess sufficient power to main- 
 tain the position assumed. Right before it has the disadvantage 
 of lowness of stern, which makes pooping more likely than tak- 
 ing water over the bows— protracted exposure to the wave, (for 
 you must go along with it,) and the tendency to gripe and 
 broach-to, which from the rudder being lifted and left out of the 
 water, and rendered useless as soon as the broken wave passes it, 
 is often irresistible and fatal, and can only be counteracted by 
 the skill and steadiness of the crew, in steering the boat by their 
 oars until the rudder comes agarn into play. If a boat broaches- 
 to in these circumstances, she will most likely fill, and instantly 
 upset, in which case, I believe the best plan is to cling to the 
 boat (or some of her gear), and endeavor to right her again, if 
 possible. 
 
246 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 453.— HAULING UP BOATS. 
 
 A gig's crew may haul up their boat, but for all other boats, il 
 requires at least double the number of their crews, assisted by 
 rollers and tackles. 
 
 A line-of-battle-ship's launch may be hauled up by five-and- 
 forty hands, in the following manner: run her bow on to the 
 beach, and let a few hands on each quarter keep her in that 
 position, by setting their oars against the ground ; next sweep 
 her with a hawser, and guy it up at the stern to a proper height 
 by several turns of the painter; to this hawser hook on the 
 double block of a long tackle, the other end, or single block being 
 overhauled to a proper length, and made fast as most convenient. 
 
 Pass the bight of another hawser round the stern post, and 
 having guyed it up on each side to the main thwart, there hook 
 on, on each side, a quarter tackle also, overhauled to a proper 
 length, and hooked on at the other end, as most convenient ; 
 man these with the remaining hands : then having placed rollers 
 in succession to take the boat's fore-foot and keel, proceed to haul 
 away. When up, the loose thwarts set against the ground and 
 wash streak will keep her upright. Smaller boats do not require 
 quarter tackles ; a few hands on the quarters to keep them up- 
 right, answer the purpose. Heavy boats especially should not be 
 turned bottom up, it strains them so much. The loose thwarts 
 might be placed for .the rollers to roll on, if the gi-ound is soft. 
 
 454.— LOWBKING BOATS. 
 
 On lowering boats from the quarter or stern, care must be 
 taken that the moment the boat touches the water, the after 
 tackles be quickly unhooked from the slings or ring bolts. If in 
 a tide's way the precaution be not observed, the probability is, 
 the boat will immediately fill, and the men in the boat be exposed 
 to imminent peril. 
 
 455.— TURNING UP THE HANDS. 
 
 In calling up the hands, or calling the crew to the performance 
 of their duties, the boatswain too often indulges in piercing pipes, 
 and drawling tones of superfluous length. Boatswains have a 
 singular propensity to demonstrate the soundness of their lungs, 
 by an endless protraction of a note on their piercing pipes. They 
 should not be so fond of supplying the place of sea bu'ds. This 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 247 
 
 is not the worst feature in their taste ; for when at last they 
 utter the required summons, they give it forth in tones so drawl- 
 ing, that the first words are often forgotten before the last are out. 
 
 Note. — A-1-1 h-a-n-d-s a-b-o-u-t - s-h-i-p. — This lengthy sum- 
 mons, and a longer-wmded whistle, and each pipe and phrase 
 three times repeated by the boatswain and his mates, the ship 
 may be ashore before the leader of the band is convinced how 
 dearly he has paid for his whistle. 
 
 456.— INSPECTION OF KIGGING— MORNING- AND 
 EVENING. 
 
 In the morning the boatswain will be required to inspect as 
 early as possible the state and condition of the standing and run- 
 ning rigging, and to report the result of his examination to the 
 officer of the morning watch. He should be particularly careful 
 to see that the ratlines of the rigging are properly secure ; that 
 the topsail sheet service is not chafed, and that all the quarter 
 and paunch mats are properly placed. 
 
 Evening. — The boatswain should inspect at evening quarters 
 all the rigging, stoppers and necessary gear required upon the 
 occasion of clearing for action ; so that in the event of being 
 suiprised by an enemy at night, such gear may be placed at hand 
 for immediate use. He should also see that the toggles fitted to 
 the lower and topsail braces, be securely seized to their respective 
 paits. 
 
 457.— INSPECTION OF STOWED ANCHORS— (AT SEA) 
 
 In boisterous weather, and particularly if the ship be laboring 
 or lurching heavily, the boatswain should inspect the several 
 anchors, and see that they are securely stowed. In small vessels, 
 where anchors, in a heavy sea, are constantly huried under water, 
 it is necessary to take the precaution of passing preventer stocks 
 and shank lashings. The quarter boats should also be inspected, 
 and the boatswain should report to the officer of the watch the 
 result of such inspection. 
 
248 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR 5 
 
 458.— INSPECTION OF BOATS— (AT SEA). 
 
 Every evening after sunset, the boatswain vdll be required to 
 inspect the boats on the booms, to see that they be perfectly clear, 
 and that their sling-spans be severally hooked for hoisting out. 
 In tropical climates it is strongly recommended to uncover the 
 boats after the sun has set, in order that they may benefit by the 
 dew and air. Each cover should be made up and placed in th«> 
 bow of the boat. 
 
 459.— GAMMONING THE BOWSPEIT. 
 
 The better way to gammon the bowsprit ia a large shipj is to 
 get a caulker's stage under the bows, fore and aft, under the 
 bowsprit ; secure one end snug to the stern, then get a stout tackle 
 from the extreme end of the bowsprit; overhaul down and sling 
 the outer end of the stage ; hook on your tackle to the slings, 
 lead your fall down on the stage ; send the men down, and bouse 
 well taut, so as to get the weight of the stage as much as possi- 
 ble on the bowsprit. Now your stage being secured, you can 
 proceed to gammon your bowsprit. 
 
 Get two stout luff-tackles on the stage and voil block ; then 
 get a span around the inner end of the stage to hook your voil 
 block to ; having your voil hooked, clinch your gammoning round 
 your bowsprit with a running clinch or a running eye ; jam your 
 turn well round the bowsprit, then reeve down through the gam- 
 moning hole up over the bowsprit, then pass your end down 
 through the scuttle on to the stage ; reeve it through the veil 
 blocks on the stage ; clap on your luffs, and bouse away, leading 
 your fall fore and aft the stage. 
 
 Note. — Leading your fall in this way has a tendency to lift up 
 the inner end of the stage, and of course your pulling down, and 
 the weight of the stage on the gammoning, must certainly bring 
 the bowsprit snug down in its bed, and set your gammoning up 
 very taut. Having got your first turn taut, rack it well ; pass 
 another, and so on until you fill up your gammoning hole, 
 jamming your last turn under all parts of the gammoning on 
 the opposite side of the bowsprit from the way you have passed 
 your gammoning. 
 
 When you are setting up your gammoning, two men ought to 
 attend with commanders, to beat it solid round the bowsprit. 
 
 When they are setting up, some people use a great deal of tar 
 and slush on gammoning, but the less the better. A piece of 
 good leather under your gammoning is much better than tarred 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSIST AJST. . 249 
 
 parceling ; and when your gammoning is passed, tmn your 
 leather over aft and nail it down to the bowsprit. Your pram- 
 moning ought to be strapped with large strands in the room of 
 rope, it being much softer and better to the gammoning, and all 
 well covered to protect it from the weather. If you use parcel- 
 ing, let it be dry and new, with a coat of tar over all when cont- 
 pleted. 
 
 460.— PRECAUTION IN REEVING RUNNING-RIGGING. 
 
 In reeving running-rigging, the boatswain is recommended not 
 to cut and reeve, but on the contrary, to reeve and cut. 
 
 However correct the rigging list may appear, there will bo 
 always found a difference of a few fathoms in rope ; and it so 
 happens that the difference is invariably on the wrong side, (he 
 allowance being said to be shorter than the measurement per rope. 
 
 Note. — It were much to be desired that the running-rigging, 
 previous to reeving, should be stretched to the capstan. The 
 old practice of taking the end through the coil will in some 
 measure relieve the rope of many of its kinks, but taking the 
 mere turns out of a rope is not sufficient to facilitate its run 
 through the blocks. Such ropes as topsail-sheets, topgallant-sheets 
 and braces, and jib and staysail-halliards, should be all stretched 
 before they are rove in their respective blocks. Moreover, if 
 there be any time more than another that a vessel will require 
 her ropes to run freely, it is upon the occasion of her first leav- 
 iag port, with a green and undisciplined crew. 
 
 461.— TOPSAIL TTE8. 
 
 Topsail tyes are now rove in some ships sufficiently long to 
 send the yards down with, and when not wanted for that pur- 
 pose, the surplus ends pertaining to the standing parts secured to 
 the mast-head. 
 
 In some ships a strop and thimble are fitted under the rigging, 
 or a score cut in the heel of the topgallant-mast for the purpose 
 of reeving through the standing part of the tye, which is secured 
 breeching-fashion with two strong seizings, and then stopped 
 down the topmast rigging. . 
 
 In shifting yards, this method will be found to save much time 
 and trouble ; the surplus end will also answer to sling the top- 
 sail-yard with, when going into action. 
 
250 ' THE KEDGE-AjNCHOR j 
 
 462.— PRECAUTION IN BLACKING THE RIGGING 
 
 In blacking the rigging, the first precaution that should be 
 taken by the boatswain, is to cover with old canvass, or hammocks, 
 the lower mast-heads, and particularly the caps. The blacking 
 should be put on hot. Thin tar, with a certain portion of lamp- 
 lack, hot salt-water, whisky, and a little litharge mixed together, 
 nake an admirable mixture for blacking the rigging. 
 
 It is not recommended to blacken the royal and topgallant rig- 
 ging aloft ; this rigging may be previously blackened and triced 
 up to dry. 
 
 463.— FORE AND MAIN BUNTLINES. 
 
 The buntlines of the courses are frequently found to jam aloft, 
 and when rove on the bight, and led forward, constantly to be- 
 come cable-laid. Buntlines will be fovmd to lead fairer, and to 
 haul the sails higher up, by fitting them after the following 
 method. 
 
 In the fore part of the top between the trestle-trees, cut two 
 holes ; into these holes insert leaden pipes, backstay-fall fashion ; 
 hook to the foremost bolt, on each side of the lower cap, a block, 
 through which each buntline-leg is to be rove ; tak-e each through 
 the holes cut in the top, and pass them down before all, and tog- 
 gle them to the foot of the sail, the hauling part to lead aft 
 through the lubber's hole, and a block turned in at a proper dis- 
 tance, to allow the after leg to act the part of a pendant. 
 
 Through this block a whip purchase is rove ; by this method the 
 buntlines will be always kept clear, and they will be found, on 
 letting go the whips, to overhaul themselves. In port, when the 
 ship is moored, the buntline-blocks, with the ropes rove, may be 
 unhooked from the bolts in the cap, and placed in the top, imme- 
 diately over the holes through which the foremost legs are rove in, 
 >>w4 can be hooked in a moment, when wanted. 
 
 464.— TOPGALLANT MAST ROPES. 
 
 For expedition the mast-rope rove upon the bight, with lizards 
 taken through the royal sheave, must be preferred to the old 
 method of Adding masts, by the double operation of two mast 
 lopes, namely the long and the short. If delay is desired, or in 
 \ither words, people prefer going the longest way to work, the 
 short maat-rope must be put in requisition. The mast rope, how 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS', ASSISTANT. 251 
 
 ever, rove upon the bight with lizards, is better calculated for 
 harbor practice than for sea service. The mast rope which is 
 here recommended is applicable to every purpose, may be fitted 
 as lollows : 1 he rope is rove as usual, stopped to the topgallant 
 mast-head, and royal sheave-hole, leaving a long end over the 
 upper stop to hitch to the bolt in the cap before cutting the stops. 
 To prevent the ropes from slipping, rack both parts together 
 above the sheave-hole in the heel of the mast. 
 
 465.— PUTTOCK SHKOUDS. 
 
 In all vessels of war, futtock shrouds are too long. Ships 
 whose lower yards are slung high, and braced sharply up, have 
 their futtock shrouds considerably shorter than the established 
 length. 
 
 466.— TOPS AND HALF TOPS. 
 
 Many seamen affect to disapprove of half tops, asserting that 
 two halves can never be so well secured as the whole. This is 
 mere prejudice ; for practical purposes a half top must be always 
 preferred, especially in large ships. 
 
 467.— STRIKING OR HOUSING TOPMASTS. 
 
 The absence of forethought, or a little practical precaution on 
 the part of the boatswain and petty officers, is sometimes the 
 cause of this operation being one of no little labor. When the 
 hands are turned up, strike topmasts. The lanyards of the after 
 rigging, back-stays and topmast-rigging should be severally slack- 
 ed, whilst the jib-stay, fore-topmast-staysail-halliards, topsail-hal- 
 liards, topsail lifts, reef-tackles and topgallant-sheets ought to be 
 well overhauled. Steady hands should be placed to attend th« 
 spring and standing-stays. 
 
 When blowing hard, head-to-wind, topmasts constantly bend in 
 the cap, from the circumstance of letting go and overhauling too 
 much of the stays. 
 
 Should there be any unusual strain on the top-tackle-pendants, 
 it is well to " stand-fast " the falls for a few seconds, in order that 
 the people aloft may examine the vicinity of the trestle-trees ; 
 and the mast may produce sufficient strain to carry away the 
 
O'^a THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 top-tackle-falls, if not the pendants. This precaution is most 
 particularly directed during periods of striking topmasts in the 
 dark. 
 
 When the masts are struck, they should be kept on the right 
 slue, and their heels securely lashed, in the event of the ship 
 parting, or it becomes necessary to set close-reefed-topsails, with 
 the mast down. The practice of sheep-shanking back-stays is not 
 recommended ; the back-stays may be set up through the medium 
 of good luff-tackles, and by such means the mast maybe rendered 
 sufficiently secure to support the strain of a close-reefed-topsaiL 
 
 468.— SWAYING UP TOPMASTS. 
 
 In performing this heavy operation, every care should be taken 
 to overhaul well, and to see that such of the standing and run- 
 ning-rigging are perfectly clear, which are calculated to impede 
 the ascent of the masts. 
 
 The topsail-lifts, topsail-tyes, reef-tackles, jib and staysail-hal- 
 Uards should be well overhauled below and aloft, and the lan- 
 yards of the topmast-rigging and back-stays be got ready for set- 
 ting up, the moment the mast is fidded and stayed. The fore- 
 castle men should have luffs led along the bowsprit, and tackles 
 up and down the foremast ready for staying the fore and main- 
 topmasts. No topmast should be fidded by a single top-tackle- 
 pendant. It is true that small vessels are not allowed a second 
 pendant, but such ships should reeve a hawser through the dead 
 sheave for the purpose of acting the part of a preventer, in the 
 event of the top-tackle-fall parting. The same precaution should 
 be taken with respect to the position of the cross-trees overhead 
 as has been already mentioned under the head of rigging top- 
 masts. 
 
 Note. — Such ships should be prepared with stoppers, with two 
 tails and a toggle, so as to clap on the top-tackle pendants about 
 a foot abaft, and under the top-block hooked to the cap. 
 
 Topmasts ascend comparatively easy until the fid-hole comes 
 within six inches of the trestle-trees ; then a heavy strain is 
 brought upon the pendants, paiUicularly upon the falls. 
 
 469.— UNMOOKING. 
 
 It frequently occurs in unmooring vessels of war that thn 
 veering-cable is not sufficiently veered. In weighing the first 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 253 
 
 anchor, a considerable strain has been felt at the capstan, in con- 
 sequence of the ship not being permitted to bring the cable up 
 and down. It is recommended to veer three or four fathoms af- 
 ter the cable is said to be up and down. This can do no harm ; 
 it will put the whole strain of the ship on the anchor ; that is, 
 in weighing, and thereby facihtate tripping it. 
 
 47 O.— REEF LINES TO THE TOPSAILS. 
 
 Few ships in the service are fitted with these lines. In some 
 ships they are attached. In reefing topsails, when blowing fresh 
 and particularly when steering a course, or going large, reef- 
 lines assist materially to spill the sail and enable the men on 
 the yards to get hold of the points, which are diflSicult to reach 
 when the canvass is bellying to the breeze. 
 
 Reef-lines are thus fitted : — Take a piece of small rope, splice 
 one end into an eyelet-hole in the head of the sail, seize it around 
 the neck of one of the first reef-points, on the foreside of the sail, 
 in a straight line with the eyelet-hole, leaving enough slack to 
 prevent the sail girting ; then seize it under to the second, then 
 the third reef ; splice an eye in the end and seize it to the neck 
 of a close-reef point. In large ships there should be three reef- 
 lines on each yard-arm ; in small vessels two will be suflftcient. 
 
 471.— REEFING COURSES. 
 
 To execute this service with security as well as with celerity, 
 the reef-earings should be formed of rope sufficiently strong to 
 bear being boused out by the boom-jiggers ; by this method the 
 inner turns of small rope may be passed with facility. 
 
 The outer earing should be led through a block or cheek, fit- 
 ted for the puipose ; this earing, it must be remembered, is not 
 to be considered as a substitute for the reef-pendant ; it should 
 also be hooked and hauled out by a separate tackle. It is the 
 general custom now, to fit all reef-earings on the bight, and pass 
 on both ends, 
 
254 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 472 TOPGALLANT-MASTS STEUCK 
 
 "When topgallant-masts are struck, care should be taicca thai 
 a small mat be placed between the topmast and the heel of the 
 topgallant-mast; proper heel lashings should also be fitted for 
 the pui-pose of securing the latter. 
 
 473.— HAILING ALOET. 
 
 Hailing aloft, in well regulated ships, is much repressed by the 
 boatswain ; for bluster is a general indication of but httle work, 
 or the truth of the adage, " All noise and no work." 
 
 474.— PEOPORTIONS FOK CABLES— (ffemy). 
 
 The sheet and bower-cable, one inch in circumference for 
 every two feet of beam. The stream-cable and messenger, two- 
 thirds of the sheet or bower chain-cables, which are used for 
 bowers ; an allowance is made of one eighth of an inch for the 
 diameter of the wire of the links, for every inch of circumference 
 of the hemp-cables. The same rule applies in all cases where 
 iron rigging is substituted for hemp. 
 
 Note. — Cable-yarns are spun two-fifths longer than the cable 
 for which they are intended. The yarns for one hundred and 
 twenty fathoms of cable, must be two hundred fathoms long; for 
 a shroud-laid rope the yarns are one-third longer — i. e., ninety 
 for sixty fathoms. (/See table of cables.) 
 
 475.— PROPORTIONS FOR ANCHORS. 
 
 For the sheet and bower-anchors, take two-thirds the numbei 
 of feet which the ship draws with all her stores, <fcc., on board, 
 and add it to the breadth of beam, allowing one hundred- weight 
 for every foot. The stream-anchor one third of the sheet or 
 bower. 
 
 For ships smaller than fiigates, an allowance of five hundred 
 weight for every hundred tons burthen, should be made for sheet 
 and bower-anchors. 
 
Representation of a Temporary Rudder. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 255 
 
 In Stocking an anchor, add together the length of the shank 
 ai^ half the round of the ring, for the length of the stock The 
 stock IS as many inches in thickness in thl middle as the shank 
 IS long m feet, and is tapered to half the size at' the end n 
 S?he rini ^"^ ' ™^' '"' '^' ^'"^'^^ '^''^ ^i'"^^ th« >-°^'^S 
 
 l.r!iT:7^^!''^^'"'^'''l^ for hemp-caWes; if for chain-cables, the 
 ength of shank may be reduced one fourth, but not in weight. 
 (See allowance table.) ^ 
 
 476.— WHAT LENGTH IS NECESSAEY TO FORM 
 A CLINCH. 
 
 In bending cables, the length of rope necessary to form a 
 clmch, IS equal to the length of the shank of the anchor. 
 
 477.— REFERENCES TO SKETCH OF TEMPORARY 
 
 RUDDER. 
 
 A. A piece of oak fitted with iron pintles, before launching or 
 while in dock, and supplied to the ship when going to sea • 
 
 B. A piece for the back, and provided for the same ; 
 
 C. A spare topmast, cut off clear of the sheave-hole ; a jib- 
 boom might do, of the new regulation. 
 
 D. Iron bolts ; 
 
 E. Chocks ; 
 
 P. Iron-pig ballast (if necessary) ; 
 
 G. Eye-bolt in quarter-deck beam, to be put in when requned; 
 H. Rope-guys (through the heel-chock B), to assist in hang- 
 ing the rudder. [See sketch of temporary rudder.) 
 
 478.— TO SPLICE AN OLD CABLE TO A NEW ONE. 
 
 Take the old one to a rope-walk, unlay the strands, and splice 
 them to the strands of the new one with long splices, after which 
 lay up the latter. It can be done in another way, but it requires 
 a good and neat marlingspike-saihr to do it. 
 
856 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 479.— STEIP SHIP 
 
 Begin aloft, and go down regularly, sending down by a reverse 
 operation. Commence with the topgallant and royal-rigging, 
 and rig in the flying-jib-boom : next send down topsail and low- 
 er yards, topmast-caps ; unrig the topmasts, get in the jib-boom 
 and spritsail-yards ; get off lower caps, tops and _ rigging ; unrig 
 the bowsprit, and unrig all gaffs, booms and davits. 
 
 Note. — Tally and strop-up rigging as fast as unrove and sent 
 down. 
 
 480 PROPORTIONS OP SPARS FOR MERCHANT 
 
 SHIPS, LENGTH OF SPARS, &c., &c. 
 
 Main-mast equal to two-and-a-half times the ship's beam. 
 
 Fore-mast equal to eight-ninths the main-mast. 
 
 Mizen-mast equal to five-sixths of the main-mast. 
 
 Bowsprit two-thirds of the main-mast, one-third of which 
 ought to be in-board. 
 
 Main-topmast three-fifths of the main-mast. 
 
 Main-topgallant-mast one-half of the main-topmast, exclusive 
 of the pole, which is generally one-hixlf the length of the top- 
 gallant-mast or a little longer. 
 
 Pore-topmast three-fifths of the foremast. 
 
 Fore-topgallaut-mast one-half the length of the fore-topmast, 
 exclusive of the pole, which is half the length of the topgallant 
 mast. 
 
 Mizen-topmast three-fifths of the mizen-mast. 
 
 Mizen-topgallant-mast one-half the length of the mizen-top- 
 mast, and the pole one half the length of the topgallant-mast. 
 
 Jib-boom the length of the bowsprit, two-thirds of which length 
 is rigged without the bowsprit-cap. 
 
 Main-yard twice the ship's extreme breadth. 
 
 Main-topsail-yard two-thirds of main-yard. 
 
 Main-topgallant-yard two-thirds of main-topsail-yard. 
 
 Fore-yard seven-eighths of main-yard. 
 
 Fore-topsail-yard two-thirds of fore-yard. 
 
 Fore-topgallant-yard two-thirds of the fore-topsail-yard. 
 
 Royal-yards two-thirds the length of the respective topgallant 
 yards. 
 
 Cross-jack-yard same length of main-topsail-yard. 
 
 Mizen-topsail-yards the same length of the main-topgallant- 
 yard. 
 
 Mizen-topgallant-yard two-thirds of mizen-topsail-yard. 
 
 Spritsail-yards five-sixths of the fore-topsail-yard. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 287 
 
 Remark. — Some have the spritsail-yard the length of the fore- 
 topsail-yaid, or nearly so ; if it should be much shorter, the jib- 
 eheets will chafe against the spritsail-braces. 
 
 Spanker boom the length of the main-topsail-yard ; it is how- 
 ever made sometimes longer, and sometimes sliorter, according 
 to fancy. Mizen-gaff tviro-thirds of the spanker-boom — liable to 
 thf; same variation. Topsail yard-arms to be long enough to 
 haul out close-reef-earing. 
 
 481.— THICKNESS OF SPARS— MASTS. 
 
 It has been customary to allow for every three feet of the 
 main-mast's length, one inch of the diameter in the partners ; 
 nine-tenths of an inch in diameter in the middle, between the 
 partners and the extremity of the head, and two-thirds under 
 the hounds, and all other masts in the same proportion ; and 
 with these proportions masts have been usually made : I am 
 however of opinion that one-quaiter of an inch to tlie foot is 
 much better. 
 
 482.— YARDS. 
 
 For every four feet of their length, allow one inch of diameter 
 in the slings, and half that diameter within the squares at the 
 yard-arm. 
 
 483.— DISTANCE FOR PLACING LOWER MASTS, 
 in vessels of two masts. 
 
 Foremasts one-seventh the length of spar-deck from forward. 
 Main two and five-sevenths as far from the foremast. 
 
 jSfote —The above rule is not to be considered proper for all 
 vessels; their places must be governed by the form of the vessel 
 
 484.-RULE FOR PLACING MASTS IN A SHIP. 
 
 Take the ship's length from the after part of the stem to the 
 
 fore n2t of the stern-post, and divide it into sevenths. Place the 
 
 foerSa one-seventh of this length from the stem the mam- 
 
 maS ee^sevenths from the fore-mast, the mizen and stern-post. 
 
 17 
 
258 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHORj 
 
 This rule is for a full-built ship ; it must therefore be varied 
 when applied to vessels that are sharp, and the stem and stem 
 posts of which rake ; the foremast must accordingly be placed 
 farther aft, the mizen-mast farther forward, and the distance be- 
 tween the masts proportionably regulated. 
 
 
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OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 259 
 
 486.— TO FIND THE TONNAGE OF A VESSEL, BY 
 THE UNITED STATES' MEASUREMENT. 
 
 The length is taken from the fore part of the main stern, to the 
 after part of the stern-post. The beam is measured at the ex- 
 treme breadth to the outside of the bends; three-fifths this beam 
 is taken off the length, before the calculation is made. For a 
 double-decked vessel, half the breadth of beam, is called the 
 depth of hold, and for a single-deck it is the same, except that 
 the hold is measured at the fore part of the hatchway, from the 
 deck down to the ceiling alongside the keelson. 
 
 To proceed on in this calculation, after all the allowances have 
 been made, the length must be multiplied by the breadth, and 
 the product by the depth of the hold ; then divide the last product 
 by 95, and the quotient will give the tonnage required. 
 
 Formerly the British divided by 94, both for merchant vessels, 
 and ships of war; but I have been informed they now divide by 
 100, which is the reason that they make our ships' tonnage less 
 than we do. 
 
 Notes on the tonnage of a vessel. — The ship-carpenters' ton- 
 nage in Philadelphia differs from the United States' measurement. 
 
 A rule staff is laid under the keel, projecting ; a hne is plumbed 
 from the upper part of the stern to the rule staff; the keel i3 
 measured from its after part to the plumb line, and including the 
 rule staff, this is called the length of keel straight rabbit. The 
 beam is measured from skin to skin, on the inside; three-fifths 
 of the beam is taken off the keel straight rabbit, for the length, 
 and the calculation, in other respects, is the same as in the United 
 States' measurement ; so that the carpenters' tonnage in Phila- 
 delphia will be less, according to the rake of the stern-post, &c. 
 
 The dead rise of a vessel is found by having a staff half the 
 beam from skin to skin, at the extreme breadth, which staff is 
 laid- even across on the ceihng of the fore part of the main hatch- 
 way. One of the timber boards being taken up, a line is let fall 
 from the staff to the skin alongside the keelson, and what it 
 measures is the vessels dead rise ; so that in order to know how 
 sharp a vessel is, it is customary to ask how much dead-rise she 
 has. 
 
 487.— STEPPING AND RAKING LOWER MASTS. 
 
 Foremasts of all ships should be stepped plumb, or perpendic- 
 ular to a water-line. All mainmasts should rake one inch to 
 every four feet above deck, and all rnizen-inasts should rake one 
 inch to every three feet above deck. All bowsprits should be 
 
2t;fj THE KfEDGE-AKCHOR; 
 
 stepped in a direct line, drawn from the step of the mainmast to 
 the lower part of the bowsprit bed ; this line answers for the lower 
 part of the bowsprit. 
 
 It has been the opinion of many sea-officers, that a mast, by 
 raking, will aid a ship in sailing ; but it has been satisfactorily 
 proved, that it has the contrary effect : for instance, a ship that 
 has her masts perpendicular only, has to bear them in two posi- 
 tions ; the one on the step, and the other on the side of support; 
 her yards hang free, brace easy, and bear no strain against them ; 
 whereas a ship with her masts raking, has to bear them in three 
 positions — the one on the step, one on the side of support, and 
 the other, which is very great, on the fore and aft stays ; her 
 yards also hang very heavy against the mast, which adds also 
 to the fore support. This must cause a great check in the pro- 
 gressive movements in the ship. A sliaip vessel or ship, with a 
 lean harping, by raking her masts, frequently eases her in pitch- 
 ing, but never adds toiler sailing, the wind having less power on 
 her sails, and the principal reason why a ship's main and mizen 
 masts, should rake a little fron her foremast is, that by separat- 
 ing the masts in this way, the wind has a better chance of ef- 
 fecting its full power on all the sails, and of striking that part of 
 them, which otherwise would be of little or no advantage to the 
 ship. 
 
 488 MOORINa. 
 
 It has been argued and proved, that if ships have room to lay 
 at single anchor with chain-cables, they are more safe than when 
 moored. The following example is given as an illustration. 
 
 Let A be moored with 75 fathoms s. e. and n. w. and B be at 
 single anchor, with the same scope of chain ; a gale commences 
 from the s. w. ; the strain on each of A's cables is double the 
 strain on B's. 
 
 It blows harder, and B lets go her other bower, and veers 150 
 fathoms on the first, and 75 on the second cable. A also veers 
 150 fathoms on both cables, but B still keeps her advantage, the 
 strain being only as 88 to 100 ; it is clear, therefore, that if either 
 ship parts her cable, it must be A that will part first. 
 
 If A had her mooring swivel on, she could not veer with any 
 advantage, as the strain on that part of the cable between the 
 swivel and anchor must remain constant ; for this reason, it is 
 obvious that moorings should not be laid down across the pre- 
 vailing winds. 
 
 The above may be shown practically by stretching a small line 
 between two points, and suspending a weight in the middle; see 
 what weight it will bear, and afterwards try what the same line 
 will bear vertically , the latter will be the ship at single anchor, 
 the former the one moored. 
 
'TlSif 
 
PART IX. 
 
 489.— PREPARATIONS FOR HEAVING DOWN. 
 
 CLEARING THE SHIP. 
 
 The ship should be stripped to lower-masts and lower-rigging 
 cleared of everything excepting the spars and running-gear, whicli 
 Will be required for lashings ; top and gear-taclcles, runners, luffs. 
 pendant-tackles, and in fact all the tackles of every size. The 
 hammock-nettings should be taken off, the loose bulk-heads re- 
 moved, and everything that is not applicable to the operation to 
 be performed, as it is desirable to have the ship as light as possi- 
 ble. The lower yards should be kept aloft till the outriggers are 
 placed. 
 
 CHOICE AND POSITION OF THE OUTRIGGERS AND SHORES. 
 
 If left to your own resources, and large, rough spars are not to 
 be obtained, the following may be used for outriggers, three of 
 which will be required for each mast ; i. e., fore and main. 
 
 Main-mast. Fore-mast. 
 
 1 Main-topmast. 
 1 Main-topsail-yard. 
 1 Half-yard (rough). 
 
 1 Fore-topmast. 
 1 Fore-topsail-yard. 
 1 Cross-jack-yard. 
 
 Note. — If you can get other spars, the yards should not be used 
 
 The spars should be placed in the main-deck-ports before and 
 abaft the masts. When they are placed, the lower-yards, caps, 
 tops and cross-trees may be sent down and landed. 
 
 The shores should then be placed with their heels resting 
 in shoes or the spare fishes, close out to the water-ways, and theil 
 heads between the trestle-trees before and abaft the mast-heads. 
 
gf,.2 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 MAST-HEAD SHORES. 
 
 Main-mast. Fore-mast. 
 
 1 Main-topmast. 
 1 Spanker-boom. 
 
 1 Fore-topmast. 
 1 Jib-boom. 
 
 In preference to using belly-shores, I would recommend to fish 
 the main-mast with the two mizen-topmasts, and the foremast 
 with fore and main-topgallant-masts ; if no other spars are to be 
 had, the topgaUant-studdingsail-booms must be cut up for shores 
 for the decks and outriggers. 
 
 carpenters' work. 
 
 In the mean time the carpenters should be employed in shoring 
 the outriggers and decks under the beams, on which the mast- 
 head-shores rest : good stages should also be prepared, the spare- 
 shackle or gammoning-bolts got ready ; the copper should be 
 stripped where they are to be driven, viz. : before, abaft, and be- 
 tween the outriggers, as low as convenient for driving, and fore- 
 locking them on the inside, or as the water line will allow. 
 
 Note. — The holes should be bored slanting upwards, so that 
 the martingales will rather tend to set them in than draw them 
 out ; the shackles or rings of the gammoning-bolts should then 
 be well parceled. 
 
 SECURING THE OUTRIGGERS. 
 
 In the meantime a party of riggers or seamen should be em- 
 ployed to fit the martingales and outrigger-shrouds, and to strap 
 the purchase-blocks. 
 
 MARTINGALES. 
 
 The size of the martingales must depend upon the angle which 
 you are able to give them, as their size must increase as their 
 angle becomes less. If the bolts are near the water-line, three 
 parts of eight-inch for each outrigger -^ill be found sufficient. 
 The main outriggers should be cleated about eighteen feet from 
 the side, for the rigging. The heels should be well shored doAvn 
 and securely lashed ; they should also be securely lashed down oi 
 gammoned to the breeching-bolts or scupper-holes, and shored by 
 diagonal shores in the angles of the port-sills, that the spars in 
 rising may bring an equal pressure on all parts ; otherwise it 
 would probably strain the top sides : the outriggers should also 
 have a stout lashing to the train-bolts amidships. If the topsails 
 yards are used (which is not advisable when other spars can be 
 obtained), the inner yard-arms must not be allowed to butt the 
 ship's side, or water-ways ; they should have chain-snotters, and 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 263 
 
 must be shored in all directions. The fore-outriggei-s should be 
 clcated about fifteen feet from the ship's side, and secured in- 
 board as the main. In addition to the martingale, the three out- 
 riggers for each mast may be connected by luffs boused well taut, 
 arid the stay-tackles may be used for fore and after-guys, which 
 will bring all to a fair strain. Any farther security that may 
 suggest itself at the time, according to circumstances, should not 
 be omitted, as you will never err by being on the safe side. 
 
 STRAPS FOR PURCHASE-BLOCKS. 
 
 I would also recommend the straps for the purchase-olocks 
 should be warped of new, three-inch rope, selvagee-fashion, instead 
 of the large rope-strap. The upper one will take about two 
 coils, Avhich will give about twenty-eight parts in the strap. The 
 strap being middled, and the block seized in, the eyes or legs 
 should pass round the mast-head, and lash on the same side as 
 the block, and above it, which will give four times tAventy -eight 
 parts of thiee-mch rope in the neck of tJie strap. 
 
 PIT-BLOCKS. 
 
 The length of the lower strap must vary according to the pit 
 you heave down to. It should contain at least thirt)'- parts of 
 three-inch, and also have four parts of the strap in the neck. If 
 the pit is deep, it will be better to warp two separate straps of half 
 tbe length for the lower blocks. The same way for the fore- 
 mast, which may be securely lashed as most convenient, but nei- 
 ther of the blocks should be lashed at the mast-head until the 
 outrigger-shrouds are over, set up hand-taut, and matted over all. 
 
 Note. — A second or preventer-purchase is required to each mast 
 
 PREVENTIVE SHROUDS.* 
 
 For the main-mast, two lengths of the stream-cable (well par- 
 celed) may next be put over the main-mast-head ; these may be 
 set up through the lower-deck-ports, and kept clear of the chan- 
 nels by short outriggers of hard wood, with grooves in tlie outer 
 end to receive the cable resting in the channels, butting agamst 
 the ship's side, and cleated round the heel, to form a step ; the 
 outrigger-shrouds for each mast may then go over. They should 
 be about eleven-inch-rope ; they must be well parceled : dead- 
 eyes or blocks may be used to set them up, as convenient. 
 
 • Small sized chain-cable may be used to a good advantage ii it can be obtained. 
 
264 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 For further security, the following purchases may be used 
 
 FOR THE MAIN-MAST, 
 
 Two main-top-tackles lashed at the mast-head ; one set up ai 
 the 11 in-tack-bolts, the other to the after-quai-ter-deck-port ; two 
 mast-ucad-runners to assist the main-stay ; two belly-stays of 
 eleven-inch,* lashed one-third down the mast, and set up on the 
 weather-side ; two main-yard tackles lashed one-third down ; one 
 set up in the main-tack-bolts, the other, after-quarter-deck-port. 
 
 FOR THE FORE-MAST. 
 
 To assist the lower rigging, two threefold purchases lashed to 
 the spare chain-plate-bolts ; two launches' purchases lashed to the 
 mast-head, and set up, one to the cat-head, and the other to the 
 after part of the fore-chains ; two runners lashed at the mast- 
 head ; one set up to the cat-head, one to the chess-tree-bolts ; two 
 belly-stays of eleven inch, one-third way down the mast, and set 
 up half-way in on the bowsprit ; two fore-top-tackles one-third 
 dow^n the mast ; one to the cat-head, one to the chess-tree-water- 
 ways, or scupper-holes, as most convenient. 
 
 THE BOWSPRIT 
 
 May be secured by the two fore-yard-tackles, hooked on the 
 weather-side. 
 
 THE MIZEN-MAST 
 
 May be shored with one shore at the mast-head, and themizen- 
 pendant-tackles and burtons may be used to assist the rigging, 
 if considered necessary. 
 
 SETTING UP THE RIGGING. 
 
 The wedges being taken out, and the masts drawn over to the 
 opposite partners, the shores may be cleated and lashed above the 
 rigging, and below the trestle-trees with good worn rope of three 
 or three-and-a-half-inch ; the lashing should be passed on both, 
 with racking turns, hove taut by a Spanish windlass, the ends 
 fi-apped round aU parts, and secured ; the heels should also be 
 lashed to the side, so that they can have no play forward or aft. 
 The outriggers' and martingales being well set up to the span- 
 ehackle bolts, and secured otherwise as before mentioned, the lower 
 rigging and outrigger-shrouds may be set up to a fair and equal 
 strain, respectively ; the outrigger-shrouds may be a little tauter 
 than the rig-ging, because they have a longer drift, and are less 
 •trained when offering the same support ; in proportion, the ad- 
 ditional purchases may then be set up. 
 
 • i. e., Supposing the vessel to be one of the largest class of frigates. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 265 
 
 There is one point in the foregoing arrangements that merits 
 peculiar attention ; having once measured the distance between 
 the mast-heads, and the same between your lower bloclts, you 
 must be careful to preserve the same distance between the mast- 
 heads whenever you may have occasion to set up afresh ; if you 
 neglect this, your mast spreads apart as the ship comes down, 
 and the stays and rigging are unfairly strained. 
 
 The slack of the opposite rigging should tlien be taken in, and 
 a swifter should be rove to keep it from hanging in a bight as 
 the ship goes down. 
 
 When the masts are thus secured, the purchase-blocks may be 
 lashed, and the shores wedged under the heels until they have 
 taken part of the strain off the rigging. Care should be taken 
 that the shore-heads are clear of the trestle-trees ; the strain 
 should not be wholly upon the shores and deck, Dut each shroud 
 and purchase must bear its proportion. 
 
 PURCHASE FALLS. 
 
 Eleven-inch fall tailed with eight inch, is sufficient for the 
 heaviest ship in the service. If you have only your own re- 
 sources, use the large hawsers tailed with the smaller, or what- 
 ever rope is convenient in the store-room, which may suit the 
 purpose. 
 
 Ifote. — In reeving, use a small line for that purpose ; you will 
 also save time and trouble by using the capstan* in reeving and 
 overhauling the falls, which is a work of considerable time. 
 
 Two-and-a-half-inch stuflf is a good size for a reeving line. 
 
 MAST-HEAD STOPPERS. 
 
 Two good stoppers of eleven-inch rope should be fitted to each 
 mast; they may go with a clove-hitch round the mast-head, the 
 ends being long enough to reeve through the strap of the lower 
 purchase-blocks, to hitch and seize back ; a small jigger, and two 
 balls of spun-yarn should be ready for each purchase ; the lead- 
 ing block should also be lashed alongside of its respective pit- 
 block with a long lashing, to allow the leader to rise high enough 
 to clear the fall of the edge of the pit ; and stoppers must also be 
 fitted for each leadeivcrab or capstan. 
 
 The greatest attention is required to the leading of the falls, as 
 the slightest ch^fe or rub, with so great a stram, might prove ot 
 serious consequence; a sharp axe should be ready at each pit. 
 
 . If at the wharf or navy-yard, cattle might be clapped on to reeve the fall witl. 
 greater facility. 
 
266 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 THE PIT. 
 
 The formation of the pit, or sleeper, in which your lower block 
 IS secured, must vary so much in locality, that no general rule 
 can be given. 
 
 ANCHORS AND CABLES. 
 
 The bowers may be landed, or used to moor the ship with, 
 head and stern ; the sheet-anchors may next be laid out a-beam 
 as tripping-anchors, at such a distance according to the depth of 
 the water, as may ensure their holding ; one should be abreast 
 of the foiemast, the other opposite the main-mast ; a stout haw- 
 ser should be bent to the ring of each, and brought in at the 
 second lower-deck port, abaft the main-mast, and first port abaft 
 the foremast, on the same side as the anchors are laid out. 
 
 The chains to these tripping-anchors should be tailed with a 
 stream-cable, which is to pass under the ship's bottom and in at 
 the quarter-deck port, abaft the main channels and second port 
 on the forecastle ; these ports should be well lined, and stoppers 
 fitted ready for fleeting ; a three-fold purchase stretched across 
 the deck, may be here applied, so that when you have tripped 
 the ship off by the hawsers you may bouse the cables in taut, 
 stopper and rack to the breech ing-bolts. 
 
 In tripping off, you must be careful to keep the ship parallel to 
 the pits, or you may chance to bring one anchor home. 
 
 CAULKING, &c. 
 
 While the foregoing preparations are being made, the pumps 
 should be shortened, to work on the lower deck. The caulkers 
 and carpenters should be employed upon the side that is to be 
 hove down, stopping the air-holes on all the decks, and thorough- 
 ly caulking every seam or hole that will either be immersed, 
 or exposed to the action of the water that may find admittance, 
 
 Earticularly in the wake of the hammock-nettings that have 
 een removed, and round the quarter-galleries. 
 
Arrangement of the Pumps in heaviag down. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. gg; 
 
 The caulking should be considered a very important point j 
 the smallest hole that can admit water must be carefully stopped, 
 
 The main-deck ports must be filled up in the centre with plank, 
 well caulked, and covered with tarred canvass ; the lower deck 
 ports and scuttles thoroughly caulked in; the holes for the port- 
 pendants plugged, cross-caulked, and payed over, and the scup- 
 pers made tight in the same manner ; and it must be remember- 
 ed that want of attention to these particulars may cost you hours 
 at the pumps, or perhaps oblige you to right the ship at a 
 moment when you might advantageously continue the repair; 
 the hawse-holes and stern-ports need not be stopped, for they will 
 not be near the water when the ship is keel out 
 
 LADDERS, &C. 
 
 Battens four inches deep, should be nailed fore and aft on each 
 deck ; knotted ropes and Jacob's-ladders should be placed at con- 
 venient distances, to secure ready access to every part of the ship, 
 which is more difficult when she is down than would be ima- 
 gined. 
 
 Note. — The hatchway ladders should all be lashed. 
 
 ARRANGEMENT OF THE PUMPS. 
 
 If the water must be raised more than thirty feet, two sets of 
 pumps will be required ; the lower ones must throw the water 
 into tubs or tanks placed on the lower deck — the upper ones 
 must be placed in these vessels, and raise it from them to the up- 
 per deck ; for this purpose nine or ten pumps will be required ; 
 they may be built square, of plank caulked in the seams, well 
 parceled and woolded, or if timber can be had, may be formed 
 by sawing straight spars in half lengthwise, and rejoining them 
 after they are hollowed ; then parceling, tarring, and woolding 
 all over. 
 
 The number required being completed, the lower and orlop- 
 decks must be scuttled, to allow the pumps to be placed at the 
 required angle, so that their ends may rest a little below the 
 orlop-wing gratings; the main and upper deck plimps may be 
 sufficiently sloped in the hatchways with their heels in the ves- 
 sels, which are raised on platforms incUned at an angle, to pre- 
 serve their level when the ship is down. 
 
 The pumps should have large holes in their nozzles, and 
 troughs should be made to carry the water over the skids to lee- 
 ward on the upner deck. 
 
 Substantial platforms must be secured at the same angle, at 
 convenient positions, for the men to work the pumps. 
 
 The pumps should be tried before you heave down, to see that 
 they are tight, and also when in position to see that the brakes 
 work cleai-'of the beams and comings. 
 
268 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Any fire engines that can be procured, should be worked in 
 the hold on similar platfoiins, with their hoses led on deck. 
 
 WEIGHT FOR HEELING AND TRIPPING SHIP. 
 
 The rigging being set up, the purchase falls rnve, the pumps 
 rigged and all the foregoing pieparatious made, fifteen or twenty 
 tons of water in casks may be placed m the side to be hove 
 down, and lashed to the breeching-bolts, &c., on the quarter-decjc 
 and fore-castle. 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR HEAVING. 
 
 The ship may then be hove oflT by the tripping-hawsers to the 
 distance of seventy or eighty feet from the pits, and the tiipping- 
 cables boused well taut. 
 
 The men required to work the pumps and engines, should be 
 on board, with a proportion of carpenters to stop small leaks, 
 clear the pumps, attend the masts in the partners, &,c. ; the 
 hand-pumps should be used as long as they will act, so as to 
 keep the ship perfectly dry ; the 'men' should be to leeward on 
 the upper deck, to assist with their weight the purchases; at 
 slack water you may commence heaving; the ship will incline 
 15° before the slack of the falls is through, and will continue to 
 close the pits until she is down to 35" ; she will then begin to go 
 off. It must be remembered that the main -mast is to heave the 
 ship down ; the fore purchase is only an assistant, and must not 
 be unfairly hove upon; avoid surging as much as possible; the 
 moment the pumps will draw they must begin to work. When 
 the ship is down the falls must be stoppered and racked, the 
 mast-head stoppers passed, boused taut and secured ; you may 
 then walk back and reverse the falls upon the capstans, taking a 
 turn round the bitts with the running part, which is to be hove 
 oflf by the capstans as you ease up, and will cause less surging. 
 
 STAGES. 
 
 Substantial floating stages having been previously made by 
 the carpenters, should now be ready to haul in; a large boat 
 containing tool-chests and the stores necessary for stopping the 
 leak, should be in attendance ; when the ship is down, not a 
 single second should be lost; let your men sing out clieer at the 
 pumps, and forego that part of your discipline for a short time, 
 which might be a hindrance to your immediate object. Watch 
 narrowly the purchases and be ready to ease-up at a moment's 
 warning, if they slacken or any of the gear carries away. In 
 easing-up, when the main-deck scuppers are out of water, hold on, 
 take the lead or canvass off that secured them, and let the water 
 escape from the deck ; you may get rid of several tons thus with- 
 jut much labor. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 259 
 
 The cai-penters must be careful in cleaving Uie injured part 
 not to uicrease the leak by undertaking more than they are able 
 to perform ; as a general rule, make all as tight as possible before 
 you think of easing-up for the night. 
 
 490.— A DERRICK. 
 
 What is termed a derrick, is a 
 single spar rounded olT at the heel 
 to set in a shoe, (similar to a shear- 
 leg;) tiie upper end is made with 
 shoulders or cleats, to stop the pur- 
 chase-block from working down, 
 also the guys ; the derrick may be 
 used for many purposes instead of 
 shears to great advantage, espe- 
 cially on board of merchant ships 
 when discharging, it being so easily 
 swung from a perpendicular posi- 
 tion to rake over the ship's side, 
 the heel resting in its shoe, and 
 the head canted in any position by 
 the guys ; any kind of a purchase 
 may be used at a derrick-head, but 
 the most general, is the single and 
 double-burton. 
 
 On the subject of providing 
 means — few ships go to sea with- 
 out a spare topmast or a spar to make one, which spar is in every 
 way calculated for a derrick, if it will make a topmast. 
 
 The rigging, (that is the various guys and ropes necessary to 
 sustain it in its position,) and the purchase-blocks for lifting the 
 weight, may be secured to the spar any height above the deck to 
 suit the particular purpose in hand, without either cutting the 
 spar, or nailing on cleats — as by a well managed arrangement 
 of lashings, all slipping or shifting of position may certainly be 
 prevented. 
 
 Note. — The luore a derrick appi jaches a perpendicular position, 
 the less will be the strain upon the guys. 
 
270 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 GENERAL CAUTIONS. 
 
 In any very intricate Navigation, 
 
 Anchor at. night or when in doubt. 
 
 Take frequent and short departures. 
 
 Pay particular attention that the prof)er course is steered. 
 
 Hand in the chain;:, and lead kept going. 
 
 Good look out. 
 
 Anchors ready, and cables clear. 
 
 Canvass well i-^gulated and be ready for bringing up. 
 
 Boats ready, tackles at hand. 
 
 Stream cable and hawsers ready. 
 
 Top-gallant-niast-ropes rove. 
 
 Taken in a Squall. 
 
 A vigilant look out, will usually prevent your being taken by 
 a squall in an un-prepared state. 
 
 If taken in a squall with the wind on the beam, before it, or 
 close hauled, keep your luff, and lower away, and clew up all as 
 fast as you can. In doing so the ship will be relieved, and the 
 canvass got in better than if the helm had been put up. 
 
 But iflaken in a squall willi the wind abaft the beam, putting 
 the helm up, and running away from it, as well as shortening sail, 
 will then be the readiest mode of easing a ship. (Remember this.) 
 
 On Good Order — [Merchant Service). 
 
 In a man-of-war, discipline is productive of the greatest good 
 — the cneigies of all are called for, and employed as most requir- 
 ed ; but even without maitial law good regulations might, and 
 ought to be established in every ship, at all times, and in all 
 places. 
 
 The greatest assistance to the promotion of good order, would 
 be soBiiiETY in seamen. The few shades in the sterhng qual- 
 ities which belong to them, many of their irregularities and acts 
 of insuboidination, may be traced to intemperance. They might 
 abstain, perhaps, but they cannot refrain. If owners would give 
 $1 a month in lieu of spirits, and have a mutual agreement respect- 
 ing its use abroad, with a stipulated penalty for drunkenness, 
 ships might be managed much more safely, and with greater 
 ease and economy than at present ; half the work of discipline 
 would then be effected. 
 
 Where tlie men are sober, have entire confidence in their offi- 
 cers, and are well treated, not harrassed unnecessarily, and sefe 
 that the comforts they ought to have are properly attended to — 
 I tiiink it would be found in most instances, that eflective good 
 order would establish itself Where it does exist, the vessel's ser- 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 271 
 
 vices are rendered in every way more effective and beneficial to 
 her employers, as well as more agreeable to the officers, crew, and 
 passengers, if any, and her chances of casualties considerably 
 lessened. 
 
 The remedy, too, is in a great measure in the hands of ship- 
 owners and captains themselves; for if they required certificates 
 of sobriety before they would ship men, drunken ones would 
 either remain unemployed or become sober, — for even a sober 
 landsman, is more useful than a drunken sailor. 
 
 On Cleanliness^ as regards the Preservation of Life in Vessels. 
 
 Nothing is toe trifling for an officer's attention, that tends to 
 the health and 'jenefit of those dependent on his care and fore- 
 thought. 
 
 Every vessel should be pumped out morning and evening. 
 
 A clean, sweet, and dry hold is essential to the health of the 
 crew. 
 
 Nothing can be more injurious than for men to sleep over 
 bilge-water, which must be the case if any water is left in the 
 hold at night. 
 
 The hold ought to be cleared often, and when it is, it should 
 be white-washed ; and also the between-decks frequently white- 
 washed. 
 
 On Painting. 
 
 In tropical climates, avoid painting as much as possible, par- 
 ticularly in-board. 
 
 0?i the Health of Men, in the Merchant Service. 
 
 In port, in tropical climates, give the men a little coffee before 
 they go to work in the morning. 
 
 The inconsiderate indulgence in new rum, has been one great 
 means of increasing the numbers attacked with yellow fever. 
 
 Do not allow the men to lay about in night dews ; and partic- 
 ularly not to wait about at wharfs. 
 
 Allow the men the use of fresh water whenever it can be spared, 
 for washing clothes, and also for themselves. 
 

PART X. 
 
 491.— EXPLANATION OF SEA TERMS. 
 
 Aback. A sail is aback when its forward surface is acted upon 
 by the wind. 
 
 Abaft. The hinder part of the ship. Behind, thus abaft the 
 foremast, means anything nearer to the stern than the foremast. 
 
 Aboard. In the ship ; as the cargo is aboard. A ship is said 
 to fall aboard when she runs foul of another. To get aboard 
 the main-tack is to bring the clew of the mainsail down to the 
 chess-tree. 
 
 About. A ship is said to be going about, when in the act of 
 backing ; the order for which is " ready about there." 
 
 Abreast. Opposite to. 
 
 Adrift. Broken loose from the moorings. 
 
 Afloat. Swimming ; not touching the bottom. 
 
 Afore. That part of the ship nearest to the stem or head. 
 
 Aft. Behind ; as stand farther aft — stand nearer to the stern. 
 
 After. Hinder, as the after ports — those ports nearest the stem 
 — after sails, after hatchway, &c., (fee. 
 
 Aground. Not having water enough to float the ship, which 
 rests on the ground. 
 
 Ahead. Before the ship. 
 
 A-lee. The helm is a-lee when the tiller is put to the lee-side. 
 — "Hard-a-lee," when it is put as far as it will go. 
 
 All in the wind. When the wind blows on the leeches or out- 
 ward extremities of the sails, and causes them to shake. 
 18 
 
274 THE KEDGE-AJVCHOR ; 
 
 All hands, ahoy. This word given by the boatswain and his 
 mates at the hatchway to assemble the ship's company. 
 
 Aloft. Up above ; in the rigging ; on the yards ; at the mast- 
 head, &c. 
 
 Alongside. Close to the ship's side. 
 
 Amidships. In the middle of the ship. The helm is amid- 
 ships when the tiller is not put over, either to one side or the other. 
 
 To anchor. To let the anchor fall overboard, that it may hold 
 the ship. 
 
 To foul the anchor. To let the cable be twisted round the up- 
 per fluke, <fcc. 
 
 To drag the anchor. When the ship pulls it with her, from the 
 violence of the wind. 
 
 Anchorhge. Ground fit to anchor in. 
 
 The anchor is a cock hill. It is hanging by the stopper at tho 
 cat-head. 
 
 The anchor is Orpeak. Near to the ship. Thus at difierent 
 distances it is called a long peak, a stay peak, a short peak. 
 
 The anchor is a-weigh or a-trip. Loosened from the ground 
 by heaving in the cable. 
 
 The anchor is backed. Another anchor is placed at a certain 
 distance before it, and attached to it by the cable of the former 
 being fastened to it, which fixes it firmly in the ground. 
 
 The anchor is catted. Drawn up to the cat-head. 
 
 The anchor is fished. Its inner arm is drawn up by the fish- 
 pendant. 
 
 To weigh the anchor. To heave it up by the capstan or wind- 
 lass. 
 
 The sheet-anchor, is of the same size and weight of the two 
 bower anchors, and the spare anchor ; it is a resource and de- 
 pendence should either of the bowers part, for which purpose the 
 cable is always kept ready bent with a long range, that it may 
 be let go on an emergency. 
 
 Best bower or small bower anchors, are the two anchors which 
 are stowed the farthest forward, or near the bows. 
 
 The streamranchor, is used to bring the ship up with occasion- 
 ally, or to steady the ship when she comes to a temporary moor- 
 ing. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 275 
 
 The kedge-anchor. The smallest of the anchors, to which a 
 hawser or cable is generally bent, and used for warping ship. 
 
 An end. Any spar or mast placed perpendicularly. The top- 
 masts are an end ; they are swayed up and Mded above the lower 
 masts. 
 
 All an end. All the masts are up in their proper stations. 
 
 A-peak. (See Anchor.) 
 
 Ashore. On land ; aground. 
 
 Astern. Behind the ship. 
 
 Athwart. Across. Athwart hawse, across the stem ; athwart 
 ships, anything lying in a direction across the ship ; athwart 
 the fore-foot, a shot fired by another ship across the bows. 
 
 Atrip. (See Anchor.) 
 
 Avast. To cease hauling ; to stop. 
 
 Aweigh. (See Anchor.) 
 
 Aweather. The helm is said to be aweather, when the tiller is 
 put over to the windward side of the ship ; hard aweather, when 
 it it is put over as far as it will go. 
 
 Awning. A canvass canopy, placed over the deck when the 
 sun is powerful. 
 
 To back the sails. To expose their forward surfaces, to the 
 wind, by hauling in the weather braces. 
 
 Back-stays. Ropes fixed at the topmast and topgallant-mast 
 heads* and extended to the chains on the ship's sides. 
 
 To bag-pipe the mizen. To bring the sheet over to the 
 weather-mizen-shrouds, in order to lay it aback. 
 
 To balance the mizen. Rolling up a portion of it at the peak. 
 
 Ballast. A quantity of iron, stone, gravel, &c., placed in the 
 hold to give a ship proper stability when she has no cargo, or 
 but a small quantity of goods, &c. 
 
 Bands. Pieces of canvass sewn across the sail, called reef- 
 bands— also a piece stuck on the middle of the sail, to strengthen 
 it when half-worn. 
 
 Bar. A shoal running across the mouth of a harbor. 
 
 Oapstan bars. Pieces of timber put into the holes in the drum- 
 head of the capstan, (where they are secured with iron pins,) to 
 heave up the anchor, <fec. 
 
 Bare poles. Having no sail up. 
 
276 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 
 
 Battens. Slips of wood nailed on the slings of the yard, which 
 are eight square — also over the tarpaulings of a hatchway to 
 keep the water out in stormy weather. 
 
 Bays. In men-of-war, the starboard and larboard sides between 
 decks, before the bitts ; in small vessels, amidships. 
 
 Beams. Strong pieces of timber across the ship, under the 
 decks, bound to the side by knees. They support and keep the 
 ship together. 
 
 On the beam. When the wind blows at a right angle with the 
 keel. 
 
 Before the beam. When the wind or object bears on some 
 point less than a right angle, or ninety degrees from the ship's 
 head. 
 
 Abaft the beam. When the wind or object bears on some point 
 which is more than a right angle of ninety degiees from the 
 ship's course. 
 
 Bearing. The point of the compass on which any object ap- 
 pears ; it is also applied to an object which lies opposite to any 
 part of the ship ; thus the buoy, <fcc., bears on the beam, the bow, 
 the quarter, (fee. 
 
 Beating to windward. Tacking, and endeavoring to get to 
 windward of some head land. 
 
 Becalmed. Having no wind to fill the sails. The ship being 
 deprived of the power of the wind, by the intei-vention of high 
 land, a large ship, (fee. 
 
 Beckets. Short straps, having an eye in one end and a double 
 walled knot on the other — ^for suspending a yard, &c., till wanted; 
 such as the beckets for the royal-yards, for the bights of the 
 sheets, (fee. 
 
 To belay. To make fast. 
 
 Bend. A kind of knot — as a sheet-bend, (fee, or a seizing, such 
 as the bends of the cable. 
 
 To bend. To make fast — as to bend the sails, the cable, (fee. 
 
 Bends. The streaks of thick stuff, or strongest planks in the 
 ship's sides, on the broadest part ; these are also called the wales. 
 
 Between decks. Any part of the ship below, betwen two decks. 
 
 Bight. Any part of a rope between the ends, also a collar or 
 eye formed by a rope. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 377 
 
 Bilge. The flat part of a ship's bottom. Bilge water, thai 
 which rests in the biige, either from rain, shipping water, «fcc. 
 
 BtnnacU. The frame or box which contains the compass. 
 
 Berth. A place of anchorage ; a cabin or apartment. 
 
 Bitts. Large, upright pins of timber, with a cross piece, over 
 which the bight of the cable is put, also smaller ones to belay 
 ropes, such as topsail-sheets, «fec. 
 
 To Utt. To place a bight of the cable over the bitts. 
 
 Blocks. Instruments with sheaves or pulleys, used to increase 
 the power of ropes. 
 
 Block and block. When the two blocks of a tackle arc drawn 
 so close together that there is no more of the fall left to haul 
 upon ; it is also termed chock-a-block. 
 
 To make a board. To tack. 
 
 To make a stern board. To drive a ship stern foremost, ty 
 laying the sails aback. 
 
 Boarding. Entering an enemy's ship by force ; the men are 
 called boarders. 
 
 Boarding netting. Net work triced round the ship to prevent 
 the boarders from entering. 
 
 Boats. Small vessels. Those belonging to ships are the long 
 boat, the launch, the cutter, the yawl, and the jolly-boat. 
 
 Boatswain. The ofBcer who has charge of the cordage, boats 
 rigging, &c. 
 
 Bobstays. Ropes rove through the cutwater, and set up with 
 dead-eyes under the bowsprit, to act against the power of the 
 fore stays. Sometimes one of these is taken to the end of the 
 bowsprit to act against the fore-topmast stays. 
 
 Bolsters. Pieces of wood or canvass stuffed, placed on the 
 lower trestle-trees to keep the rigging from chafing. 
 
 Bolts. Iron fastenings by which the ship is secured in her hulL 
 
 Bolt-ropes. Ropes sewn round the edges of the sails. 
 
 Booms. Large poles, used to extend the studding-sails, spanker, 
 jibs, (fee. 
 
 Boom-irons. Iron caps fixed on the yard-arms for the studding- 
 sail-booms to rest in. 
 
 Bows. The round part of the ship, forward. 
 
 To bouse. To haul upon. 
 
5J78 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Bower. (See Anchor.) 
 
 Bowlines. Ropes made fast to the leeches, or sides of the sails, 
 to pull them forward. 
 
 Bowsprit. A mast projecting over the stem. 
 
 Box-hauling. A method of waring or turning a ship fi-om the 
 wind. 
 
 Boxing'off. Turning the ship's head from the wind by back- 
 ing the head sails. 
 
 Braces. Ropes fastened to the yard-arms to brace them about, 
 also a security to the rudder, fixed to the stern-post. 
 
 Brails. Ropes apphed to the after leeches of the mizen, and 
 some of the staysails to draw them up. 
 
 To break bulk. To begin to unload. 
 
 To break the sheer. To swerve from the proper direction in 
 which a ship should be when at anchor. 
 
 Breaming. Burning the stuff which is collected on the ship's 
 bottom during a long voyage. 
 
 Breast-hooks. Pieces of timber placed across the bows of a 
 ship to keep them together. 
 
 Breast-work. Railing on the fore part of the quarter deck, where 
 ropes are belayed. 
 
 Breeching. A stout rope fixed to the cascable of a gun, fasten- 
 ed to the ship's side to prevent its running in. 
 
 Bridles. The upper part of the moorings laid in harbors for 
 men-of-war ; also ropes attached from the leeches of the square 
 sails to the bowlines. 
 
 To bring up. To come to an aachor. 
 
 To bring to. To make a ship stationary, stopping her way by 
 bracing some of the sails aback, and keeping others full, so as to 
 counterpoise each other. 
 
 To bring by the lee. When a ship is sailing with the Aviod very 
 large, and flies off from it so as to bring it on the other side, the 
 sails catching aback, she is then said to be brought by the 'ee ; 
 this is a dangerous position in a high sea. 
 
 To broach-to. Flying up in the wind, so as to bring i on 
 the other side when blowing fresh. 
 
 Bulk-heads. Partitions in the ship. 
 
 Bull's-eye. A wooden thimble. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 279 
 
 Bumkin, or hoomkin. A short boom fitted to the bows of a ship 
 for the purpose of hauling down the fore tack to ; it is supported 
 on each side by a shroud. 
 
 Bujit. The middle part of a square-sail, also the fore leech of a 
 quadrangular staysail. 
 
 Btmtlines. Ropes attached to the foot of a square-sail, to haul 
 it up. 
 
 Burton pendants. The first piece of rigging which goes ovei 
 the topmast-head, to which is hooked a tackle to set up the top- 
 mast-shrouds. 
 
 Bush. Metal in the sheaves of blocks which have iron pins. 
 
 Butt-end. The end of a plank in a ship's side. 
 
 Buttock. That part of a ship's hull under the stern, between 
 the water-line and wing-transoiu. 
 
 By the board. Over the side. A mast is said to go by the 
 board when it is carried or shot away just above the deck. 
 
 By the head. When a ship is deeper in the water forward than 
 aft. 
 
 By the stern. The reverse of by the head. 
 
 By the wind. When a ship is as near to the wind as her head 
 can lie, with the sails filled. 
 
 Cabin. A room or apartment ; also a bed place. 
 
 Cable. A large rope by which the ship is secured to the anchor. 
 Cables take their names from the anchor to which they belong; 
 as the sheet-cable, the best bower-cable, «fcc. They are generally 
 120 fathoms in length. 
 
 To bitt the cable. (See Bitts.) 
 
 To heave in the cable. To pull it into the ship by the windlass 
 or capstan. 
 
 To pay out the cable. To pass it out of the hawse-hole. 
 
 To veer away the cable. To slacken it so that it may run out, 
 as in paying out. 
 
 To serve the cable. To wrap it round with rope, plait, or horse- 
 hide, to keep it from chafing. 
 
 To slip the cable. To let it run clear out. 
 
 Cable tier. That part of the orlop-deck where the cables are 
 ioiled. 
 
 To coil the cable. To lay it on the deck in a circular form. 
 
280 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Caboose. The place where the victuals are dressed in mer- 
 chantmen. 
 
 Call. A silver pipe or whistle used by the boatswain and hia 
 mates, by the sounding of which they call up the hands, direct 
 them to haul, to veer, to belay, &c., «fcc. 
 
 Canted. Anything turned from its square position. 
 
 Canvass. Strong cloth, of which the sails are made. 
 
 Cap. A block of wood which secures the topmast to the lower 
 mast. 
 
 Capsize. To turn over. 
 
 Capstan. A machine for drawing up the anchor by ^he mes- 
 senger, which is taken round it and applied to the cable by the 
 nippers. 
 
 Careening. Heaving a vessel down on one side, to clean oi 
 repair her bottom. 
 
 Carrick bend. A kind of knot. 
 
 Cast. To pay a ship's head off by backing the head sails when 
 heaving up the anchor, so as to bring the wind on the side required. 
 
 Cat-block. A large, double or threefold block, used for drawing 
 the anchor up to the cat head. 
 
 Cat-head. A large piece of timber or crane, projecting over the 
 bow, for drawing up the anchor clear from the ship's side. 
 
 Cat-harpings. Short legs of rope seized to the upper part of the 
 lower shrouds and futtock-staves, to keep them from bulging out 
 by the strain of the futtock-shrouds, and to permit the bracing 
 up of the lower yards. 
 
 Cafs-paw. A light air, perceived by its effect u-pon the water, 
 but not durable ; also a twist made on tiie bight of a rope. 
 
 To Cdiilk. To drive oakum into the seams of the sides, decks, &c. 
 
 Chains. Links of iron bolted to the ship's sides, having dead- 
 eyes in the upper ends, to which the shrouds are connected by the 
 lanyards. 
 
 Channels. Strong, broad planks, bolted to the sides to keep the 
 dead-eyes in the chains fi'om the side, to spread the rigging 
 farther out. 
 
 Chapeling. A ship is said to build a chapel, when by neglect 
 in light winds she turns round so as to bring the wind on the 
 «ame part it was before she moved. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ggi 
 
 Chase. A ship pursued by another. 
 
 Bow-chase. A gun in the fore part of the ship. 
 
 Stem-chase. A gun pointing astern in the after part of the ship. 
 
 To chase. To pursue ; to follow. 
 
 To cheer. To huzza. What cheer-ho ! a salutation. 
 
 Chock-a-block. (See block and block.) 
 
 To clap on. To make fast ; as, olap on the istoppers, &c. 
 
 To claw off. To beat to windward from a lee-shore 
 
 Cleats. Pieces of wood to fasten ropes to. 
 
 Close-hauled. Asanighthewind as a ship can lie. 
 
 Club-hauling. Tacking by means of an anchor. 
 
 Clues or Clews. The lower corners of the square sails. 
 
 Coamings. The borders of the hatchways which are raised 
 al)ove the deck. 
 
 Coiling. Laying a rope down in a circular form. 
 
 Companion. A wooden covering over the cabin hatchway. 
 
 Course. The point of the compass on which the ship sails ; the 
 mainsail, foresail and mizen are also called courses. 
 
 Crab. A small capstan. 
 
 To cun the ship. To direct the helmsman how to steer. 
 
 Cutwater. The knee of the head. 
 
 Davit. A crane of timber used for fishing the anchors. 
 
 Dead-eye. A block with three holes in, to receive the lanyard 
 of a shroud or stay. 
 
 Dog-vane. A small vane made of cork and feathers, and placed 
 on the weather side of the quarter deck. 
 
 Dolphin. A wreath of rope placed round a mast. (See Pudding.) 
 
 To Douse. To let fly the halliards of a topsail ; to lower away 
 briskly, <fec. 
 Dovmhauler. A rope to pull down the staysails, topmast, stud- 
 
 dingsails, &c. 
 
 Drift. Driving to leeward ; driving with the tide. Drifts are 
 also those parts where the rails are cut off an end with scrolls. 
 
 Driv(^. A large sail suspended to the mizen-gaff. 
 .Dunnage. Wood, &c. laid at the bottom of a ship to keep the 
 
 cargo diy. 
 
 Earhigs. Small ropes to make fast the upper corners of square- 
 
 sails, &.C. 
 
og2 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Ease-off. To slacken. 
 
 End-for-end. To let a rope or cable run quite out. 
 
 End-on. When a ship's bows and head sails are only seen. 
 
 Eiisign. A national flag worn by ships at their gaff-ends. 
 
 Fag-end. The end of a rope which is untwisted. 
 
 Fake. One circle of a coil of rope. 
 
 Falling-off. When a ship moves from the wind farther than 
 
 she ought. 
 
 Fid. A tapered piece of wood, or iron, to splice ropes with ; 
 also a piece of wood which supports one mast upon the trestle- 
 trees of another. 
 
 To Fill To brace the yards so that the wind may strike the 
 sails on their after surfaces. 
 
 Flukes. The broad parts or palms of the anchors. (See Anchor.) 
 
 Fore. That part of the ship nearest to the head. 
 
 Fore and aft. The lengthway of the ship, or in the direction 
 of the keel. 
 
 Fore-castle. A short deck in the fore part of the ship. 
 
 Forging-a-head. Forced a-head by the wind. 
 
 Foul haivse. When the cables are twisted. 
 
 To founder. To sink. 
 
 Full and by. (See' close-hauled.) 
 
 Furling. Making fast the sails to the yards by the gaskets. 
 
 Gaff. Tlie spar or yard, to which the mizen of a ship, or the 
 mainsail of a brig or cutter is bent. 
 
 Gaiig-ioay. A deck reaching from the quarter-deck to the fore- 
 castle ; also the place where persons enter the ship. 
 
 Gasket. A piece of plat to fasten the sails to the yard. 
 
 Girt. A ship is girted when her cables are too tight, which 
 prevents her swinging. 
 
 Goose-neck. An iron hook at the end of a boom. 
 
 Goose-ioings. The outer extremities of a main or foresail, 
 when loose, the rest of it being furled. 
 
 Goring. Cutting a sail obliquely. 
 
 Gripe. A piece of timber that joins the keel and the cut-water. 
 
 Griping. When a ship carries her helm much to windward. 
 
 Gunnel. The upper part of a ship's side. 
 
 Gui/. A rope to steady a boom. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 283 
 
 Gybhig. When (by the wind being large), it is necessary to 
 shift the boom of a fore and aft sail. 
 
 Halliards. Tackles or ropes to hoist up the sails. 
 
 To Hand. (The same as to furl.) 
 
 Hatchway. A square hole in the deck, which communicates 
 with the hold, or another deck. 
 
 To Haul. To pull. 
 
 To Hail. To call out to another ship. 
 
 A clear Hawse. When the cables are not twisted. 
 
 Afoul Hawse. When the cal)les lie across, or are twisted. 
 
 Hawse-holes. The holes through which the cables pass. 
 
 Hawser. A small cable. 
 
 To Heel. To incline to one side. 
 
 Helm. A wooden bar put through the head of a rudder ; also 
 called a tiller. 
 
 To Hitch. To make fast. 
 
 Tlie Hold. The lower apartment of a ship, where the provisions 
 and goods are stowed. 
 
 To haul Home. To pull the clew of a sail, &c. as far as it will go. 
 
 Horse. A rope made fast to the yard, on which the men stand. 
 
 Hull. The body of a ship. 
 
 Jeioel-hlocks. Blocks at the topsail-yard-arms for the topmast- 
 studding-sail halliards. 
 
 Jigger. A purchase used in merchant ships to hold on the cable. 
 
 Junk. Pieces of old cable, out of which mats, gaskets, «fec. are 
 made. (See article on Junk.) 
 
 Jury-masts. Temporary masts, when the others are carried or 
 shot away. 
 
 Keckling. Old rope passed round the cable at short distances. 
 
 Kink. A twist or turn in a rope. 
 
 To Labor. To pitch and roll heavily. 
 
 Land-fall. Discovering the land. 
 
 Larboard. The left side. 
 
 Launch-ho. To let go the top rope when the topmast is fidded. 
 
 Leeward. That point wliicii the wind blows. 
 
 Lee-lurch. Wlien the sliip rolls to leeward. 
 
 Lee-tide. When the wind and tide are the same way. 
 
284 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Lizard. A small piece of rope with a thimble spliced mto a 
 larger one. 
 
 Looming. The appearance of a distant object ; such as a ship, 
 the land, &c. 
 
 Lubber. A sailor who does not know his duty. 
 
 Luff. A direction to the steersman to put the helm to leeward. 
 
 Luff-tackle. A large tackle consisting of a, double and single 
 block. 
 
 Lying-to. (See To bring-to.) 
 
 To man the yards. To send men upon them. 
 
 To moor. To secure a ship by more than one cable. 
 
 Moorings. The place where a vessel is moored ; also anchors 
 with chains and bridles, laid in rivers for men-of-war to ride by. 
 
 Neap-tides. Those tides which happen when the moon is in 
 her quarters, and are not so high as the Spring-tides. 
 
 Neaped. A ship is said to be neaped, when she is left on shore 
 by these tides, and must wait for the next Spring-tides. 
 
 To Near the land. To approach the shore. 
 
 To Near. A direction to the helmsman to put the helm little 
 " a-weather ; " to keep the sails full ; to let her come no nearer to 
 the wind. 
 
 Nippers. Plaiting or selvagees, to bind the cable to the mes- 
 senger. 
 
 Off-and-on. Coming near the land on one tack, and leaving it 
 on another. 
 
 Offing. Out to sea from the land. 
 
 Orlop-deck. The lowest deck in the ship, lying on the beams 
 of the hold. The place where the cables are coiled, and where 
 other stores are kept. 
 
 Overboard. Out of the ship., 
 
 Ovei-hauling. To haul a fall of rope through a block till it is 
 slack — also examining a ship. 
 
 Painter. A rope by which a boat is made fast. 
 
 To Pass. To hand anything from one to another, or to place 
 a rope or lashing round the yard, (fcc. 
 
 Pay. To rub tar, pitch, or anything, with a brush. 
 
 To pay off. To make a ship's head recede from the wind, by 
 backing the head-sails. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 285 
 
 To Peak up. To raise the after end of a gaff. 
 
 Plying. Turning to windward. 
 
 Pooping. A ship is said to be pooped when she is struck by a 
 heavy sea, on the stern or quarter. 
 
 Port, To the left side. This term is used for the hehnsman 
 to put the helm to the left, instead of the word Larboard, to 
 make a distinction frbm the affinity of sound in the word Star- 
 board. 
 
 Preventer. Anything for temporary security, as a preventer- 
 brace, &c. 
 
 Pendant, or Pennant. A sort of long, narrow banner. 
 
 Pendant {broad). A sort of flag terminating in two points. 
 
 Pendant. The name of a piece of rope applied to different 
 objects on ship-board; i. e., fish-pendants, rudder-pendants, &c. 
 
 Q,uarter. That part of a ship's side between the main-chains 
 and the stem. 
 
 Racking a Fall. Seizing the parts of a tackle-fall together by 
 cross-turns. 
 
 Rake. The projection of a ship at the stem and stern, beyond 
 the extent of the keel — also the inclination of a ship's masts, 
 either foi-ward or aft from a perpendicular line. 
 
 Range of Cable. A sufficient length hauled up to permit the 
 anchor to drop to the bottom. 
 
 To Rattle down the Shrouds. To fix the ratlings on them. 
 
 To Reef. To reduce a sail by tying it round the yard with 
 points. 
 
 To Reeve. To put a rope through a block, &c. 
 
 To Ride. To be held by the catle ; to ride easy, is when a ship 
 does not labor much ; to ride hard, is when a ship pitches with 
 violence. 
 
 To Rig. To^fit the rigging to the mast. 
 
 To Right. A ship is said to right when she rises to her up- 
 iight position, after being laid down by a violent squall. 
 
 To Right the Helm. To put it a-midships, or in its fore and 
 aft position parallel to the keel. 
 
 To Round-in. To haul in a brace, «fec., which is not very tight. 
 
 To Rouse-in To haul in the slack part of the cable. 
 
2y;j THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 
 
 To Run down. When one ship sinks another by running over 
 
 her. 
 
 To Scud. To sail before the wind in a storm. 
 
 To Scuttle a Ship. To make holes in her bottom to sink her. 
 
 To Serve. To wind anything around a cable or rope, to pre- 
 vent its being chafed. 
 
 To Seize. To make fast or bind. 
 
 To Sheer. To go in and out, and not in a direct course. 
 
 To Ship. To put anything on board ; to ship a sea, when a 
 sea breaks into a ship. 
 
 To Shiver. To make the sails shake. 
 
 The Slack of a Rope, <^c. That part which hangs Ic/ose. 
 
 To Slip a Cable. To let it run out to the end. 
 
 To Slue. To turn anything about. 
 
 To Sound. To find the bottom by a leaden plummet. 
 
 To take a Spell. To be in turn on duty at the lead, the 
 pump, &c. 
 
 To Spill. To take the wind out of the sails by the braces, &c., 
 in order ro reef or to hand them. 
 
 To Splice. To join two ropes together, by uniting the strands. 
 
 Spoon-drift. A continued flying of the spray and waves over 
 the surface of the sea. 
 
 To Spring a Mast. To crack or split it. , 
 
 A Spring. A rope made fast to the cable at the bow and 
 taken in abaft, in order to expose the ship's side in any direction. 
 
 Spring-tides. The highest tides at the full and change of the 
 moon. 
 
 To Stand-on. To keep in the course. 
 
 To Stand-by. To be ready. 
 
 Starboard. The right side. 
 
 To Steer. To manage a ship by the movement of the helm. 
 
 To Stopper the Cable. To keep it from running out by fasten- 
 ing short ropes to it, called stoppers. 
 
 Strand. One of the divisions of a rope. 
 
 Stranded When one of the divisions of a rope is broken— 
 also when a ship is run on shore, so that she cannot be got off, 
 she is said to be stranded. 
 
 To Stretch. To stand on different tacks, under a press of sail 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 287 
 
 To Strike. To beat against the bottom— also to lower the flag 
 in token of submission. Lowering the topmasts, is commonly 
 termed striking them. 
 
 To Surge the Messenger. To slack it suddenly. 
 
 To Sway. To hoist up the yards and topmasts. 
 
 To Swing. To turn a ship from one side of her anchor to 
 another, at the change of the tide. 
 
 To Tack. To turn a ship by the sails and rudder against the 
 wind. 
 
 Taut. A corruption of tight. 
 
 Taunt. Long, lofty. 
 
 Tending. The movement of a vessel in swinging at anchor. 
 
 Tier. The place where cables are coiled. 
 
 Traverse. To sail on different courses. When a rope runs 
 freely through a thimble, (fcc, it is said to traverse. 
 
 Trying. Laying-to in a gale of wind under a small sail. 
 
 Turning to Windward. Tacking. 
 
 Twice-laid stuff. Rope made from the yarns of a cable, «fcc., 
 which has been half-worn. 
 
 To Veer and Haul. To pull a rope, and then slacken it. 
 
 To Unbend. To cast loose. 
 
 To Unmoor. To reduce a ship to a single anchor, after riding 
 oy two. 
 
 To Unreeve. To pull a rope out of a block. 
 
 To Unrig. To deprive a ship of her rigging. 
 
 To Unshij). To take anything from the place in which it was 
 fixed. 
 
 Waist of a Ship. The part between the main and fore-drifts ; 
 also a term sometimes used for the spare or waist-anchor, from 
 its being stowed near the fore-drift, or fore part of the waist. 
 
 Wake. The track left by the ship on the water which she has 
 passed over. 
 
 Wales. {See Bends). 
 
 To Wear. To turn a ship round from the wind. 
 
 To Warp. To move a ship by hawsers. 
 
 Watch. A division of the ship's company, who keep the deck 
 for a certaui time. One is called starboard, and the other the 
 larboard watch. 
 
288 '•I'HE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Water-logged. The state of a leaky ship, when she is so fuJl 
 of water as to be heavy and unmanageable. 
 
 Way of a Ship. Her prof^ross through the water. 
 
 To Weather a Ship. To get to windward of her. 
 
 A Weather Tide. A tide or stream which runs to windward. 
 
 Weather-Beaten. Anything worn or damaged by bad weather. 
 
 To Weigh. To heave the anchor out of the ground. 
 
 To Whip. To bind the end of a rope with yarn to prevent its 
 untwisting ; also to hoist anything by a rope which is rove 
 through a single block. 
 
 Wind's-eye. That point from which the wind blows in a di- 
 rect line. 
 
 Between Wind and Water. That part of the ship's bottom 
 which is just at the surface of the water, or what is called the 
 water-line. 
 
 To Wind a Boat, Sfc. To turn it round from its original 
 position. 
 
 Wind-Rode. When a ship is kept astern, &c., of her anchor, 
 solely by the wind. 
 
 To Windward. Towards that point from which the wind 
 blows. 
 
 To Work to Windward. To make progress against the wind 
 by tacking. 
 
PART XI. 
 
 TABLES 
 
 RELATING TO 
 
 RIGGING, BLOCKS, SPARS ANCHOKS, CABLES, &o. 
 
THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 Td 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 « 
 
 M 
 CT 
 
 1-H 
 
 tZi 
 
 CO 
 
 s 
 
 00 
 
 m 
 
 CO 
 
 r- 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 CO 
 
 ^ ll 
 ■2 50 
 
 = 
 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 FH 
 
 
 
 f-» 
 
 
 
 c« 
 
 
 
 »-H 
 
 <s 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i-H 
 
 Cl 
 
 I-H 
 
 I* 
 
 
 
 
 
 00 
 
 rH 
 
 2 
 
 CT 
 
 m 
 
 00 
 
 2 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CJ 
 
 I-) 
 
 I^ 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 00 
 
 °? 
 
 rt 
 
 
 00 
 
 CJO 
 
 «5 
 
 
 
 iO 
 
 -^ 
 
 CO 
 
 at 
 
 (M 
 
 
 
 
 
 H = - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■< 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 r> 
 
 r> 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CjO 
 
 •^ 
 
 
 
 to 
 
 CO 
 
 (J» 
 
 I-H 
 
 
 
 *-t 
 
 t- 
 
 I-H 
 
 ■* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I-H 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 
 C5 
 
 00 
 
 J^ 
 
 1# 
 
 I-H 
 
 nn 
 
 f^ 
 
 
 
 (M 
 
 (M 
 
 c> 
 
 cs 
 
 
 
 
 o» 
 
 r^ 
 
 i-t 
 
 
 I-H 
 
 1~* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 •uixiatis 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^_i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •J3M0a 
 
 
 01 
 
 <s 
 
 (N 
 
 <s 
 
 N 
 
 a 
 
 <M 
 
 OQ 
 
 0» 
 
 IM 
 
 at 
 
 CJ 
 
 C« 
 
 
 c« 
 
 (M 
 
 (M 
 
 o> 
 
 (N 
 
 a 
 
 (M 
 
 CT 
 
 Cft 
 
 r-* 
 
 -> 
 
 tH 
 
 - 
 
 % 1 
 
 
 « 
 
 m 
 
 n 
 
 m 
 
 CO 
 
 CO 
 
 m 
 
 in 
 
 CO 
 
 t- 
 
 (M 
 
 B 
 
 CO 
 
 
 1-H 
 
 •n 
 
 
 
 iH 
 
 0* 
 
 
 
 
 i-H 
 
 I-H 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 GO 
 
 CO 
 
 
 on 
 
 . I-H 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 CJ 
 
 I-H 
 
 
 00 
 
 t- 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 f-H 
 
 
 
 
 
 c» 
 
 
 
 IH 
 
 1^ 
 
 r~ 
 
 I-H 
 
 
 Cl 
 
 1.0 
 
 a 
 
 
 W 
 
 W 
 
 •^ 
 
 ■* 
 
 CO 
 
 CO 
 
 Cl 
 
 <N 
 
 I-H 
 
 
 
 
 
 H -3 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 Ci 
 
 cs 
 
 01 
 
 
 
 
 H# 
 
 in 
 
 d 
 
 •3 
 
 CI 
 
 -H 
 
 
 
 
 
 r-t 
 
 
 
 
 t-( 
 
 o» 
 
 
 
 r» 
 
 T-H 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 T-l 
 
 r-( 
 
 rH 
 
 I-l 
 
 CO 
 
 I-H 
 
 I-H 
 
 CO 
 
 I-H 
 
 T-t 
 
 
 
 CJ 
 
 -• 
 
 ,fi 
 
 <o 
 
 
 m 
 
 (TJ 
 
 ■<s< 
 
 •* 
 
 t- 
 
 CO 
 
 on 
 
 m 
 
 to 
 
 in 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 (D 
 
 S 
 
 j* 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I-t 
 
 I-t 
 
 
 
 I-H 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 CO 
 
 g 
 
 s 
 
 1-H 
 
 CO 
 
 o> 
 
 l=> 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 fH 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 issue 
 
 
 1-t 
 
 1-1 
 
 rH 
 
 I-t 
 
 1-t 
 
 1-H 
 
 - 
 
 " 
 
 '-' 
 
 I-H 
 
 I-H 
 
 CI 
 
 (.-< 
 
 - 
 
 ■JSAVOa 
 
 
 CI, 
 
 CM 
 
 05 
 
 cq 
 
 CT 
 
 c^ 
 
 (M 
 
 (M 
 
 Gil 
 
 <M 
 
 U<t 
 
 
 
 <ri 
 
 '^ 
 
 r^ 
 
 ■* 
 
 ■^ 
 
 fH 
 
 on 
 
 (N 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 fn 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I-( 
 
 
 i-l 
 
 tH 
 
 
 
 
 
 1-H 
 
 01 
 
 •a 
 
 t 
 
 c« 
 
 CO 
 
 (M 
 
 OJ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I-H 
 
 (M 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 e 
 
 > 
 
 ■a 
 
 t- 
 
 Cl 
 
 01 
 
 
 tH 
 
 CO 
 
 1-H 
 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 iH 
 
 CO 
 
 CO 
 
 I-t 
 
 00 
 
 1-H 
 
 I-H 
 
 U 
 
 
 « 
 
 Ci 
 
 i^ 
 
 «J 
 
 CO 
 
 « 
 
 <-H 
 
 00 
 
 t- 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 
 
 IH 
 
 I-H 
 
 A 
 
 
 _o 
 
 ■ ' 
 
 ' * 
 
 
 
 
 '"' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 ■taT!3JlS 
 
 
 
 iH 
 
 tH 
 
 T-* 
 
 •"* 
 
 w^ 
 
 »H 
 
 IH 
 
 IH 
 
 r-1 
 
 I-H 
 
 I-H 
 
 I-H 
 
 ■^aaqS 
 
 
 CT 
 
 CT 
 
 N 
 
 ei 
 
 C5 
 
 o» 
 
 tM 
 
 (N 
 
 (M 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 . 
 
 1 
 
 •Buno 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■* 
 
 m 
 
 5 
 
 to 
 
 ^ 
 
 0? 
 
 to 
 
 OJ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 U! o»iiH 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 (» 
 
 iH 
 
 1-H 
 
 I-l 
 
 
 
 tA 
 
 
 1 
 t 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 ■ 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 ■ 
 
 • 
 
 ■ 
 
 ■ 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 
 
 iS 
 
 3 
 
 as 
 
 Vc 
 
 
 
 
 .2 
 
 13 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 s 
 
 g 
 
 5 
 
 IS 
 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ■in 
 
 
 
 
 s 
 1 
 
 
 % 
 
 a 
 
 El 
 
 3 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 Ph 
 01 
 
 1 
 
 1=) 
 
 3 
 
 (0 
 
 g 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 Eh 
 
 bo 
 
 n 
 
 2 
 
 •3 
 
 2" 
 
 E 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 CO 
 
A Sketch showing the Names of the different parts of an Anchor. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 291 
 
 493.— A Table Showing the Weight, Size and Length 
 of Guns and Carriages, V. S. Naryi 
 
 SIZE OF GUNS. 
 
 42 Pounder, Long Gun, 
 
 32 '• ... 
 
 32 " 
 
 32 " .... 
 
 32 " ^ . . 
 
 32 " ... 
 
 32 « ..... 
 
 32 « ... 
 
 32 " 
 
 32 « ... 
 
 32 « 
 
 32 « 
 
 24 " Long Medium, 
 
 24 « ... 
 
 24 " 
 
 24 " 
 
 18 " 
 
 18 « 
 
 18 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 9 ''■ 
 
 9 " 
 
 12 inch Peace Maker, - - 
 10 inch Shell Gun, - - - 
 
 8 " " 
 
 8 " " 
 
 8 " " 
 
 8 " " - - - 
 
 CAttBONADES. 
 
 42 Pounder, - . . - 
 
 32 " 
 
 32 " . . - . - 
 
 32 " - . - - 
 
 24 « - - - 
 
 24 " ■. - - - 
 
 WEIGHT OF 
 GUN. 
 
 cwl. qrs. 
 
 70 
 61 
 51 
 
 60 
 
 50 
 
 42 2 
 
 61 2 
 41 
 41 
 32 
 
 51 
 
 43 
 49 
 49 
 49 
 32 
 38 
 40 
 36 
 23 
 18 
 18 
 
 150 
 136 3 
 
 63 
 68 2 
 
 64 
 53 
 
 27 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 19 
 13 
 15 
 
 WEIGHT OP 
 CARRIAGE 
 
 cwl. qrs. lbs. 
 
 8 2 
 
 8 1 
 
 9 1 
 
 8 
 
 6 3 
 
 6 3 
 
 5 2 
 
 5 2 
 
 4 3 
 3 3 
 
 7 2 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 LENGTH OF 
 GUN. 
 
 fi. i... 
 
 9 1 
 
 9 2 
 
 8 4 
 
 9 2 
 
 8 4 
 
 8 2 
 
 9 2 • 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 6 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 9 4i 
 8 4i 
 8 4 
 
 6 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 2 
 
 7 7-J- 
 6 8i 
 6 1 
 
 5 11 
 
 8 10 
 
 9 1 
 
 8 10 
 
 8 4 
 
 4 3 
 
 4 1 
 
 4 2 
 
 3 7 
 
 3 9 
 
 cwt. qrs. lbs. 
 
 59 2 
 
 50 3 
 70 3 
 
 49 
 
 55 3 
 
 55 3 
 
 43 2 
 
 45 2 
 
 27 3 
 
 21 3 
 
 34 2 
 
 25 2 14 
 18 2 
 21 
 
292 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 494.— A Table showing the Weight of Chain CaWe. 
 
 150 Fathoms of 2J inch weiglis 
 
 150 
 
 K 
 
 2i 
 
 150 
 
 If 
 
 2 
 
 150 
 
 (( 
 
 l-H 
 
 150 
 
 If 
 
 If 
 
 150 
 
 ff 
 
 n 
 
 150 
 
 ff 
 
 1+^ 
 
 150 
 
 (f 
 
 H 
 
 150 
 
 ff 
 
 If 
 
 150 
 
 If 
 
 H 
 
 150 
 
 l( 
 
 H 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 45 249 
 37 400 
 37 372 
 34 125 
 32 225 
 27 192 
 25 350 
 23 934 
 17 204 
 14 384 
 11 921 
 
 495. — A Table showing- how many Fathoms make 112 
 Pounds of 4-strand shroud-Iald Hope. 
 
 486 fath 
 
 feet in. of 1 inch in size. 
 
 8 fath. 
 
 3 fc 
 
 313 
 
 (( 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 t( 
 
 li " "- 
 
 7 
 
 (C 
 
 3 
 
 216 
 
 K 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 tl 
 
 li 
 
 7 
 
 tl 
 
 
 
 159 
 
 (( 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 tl 
 
 IJ '■ " 
 
 6 
 
 K 
 
 4 
 
 124 
 
 tt 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 2 " " 
 
 6 
 
 (C 
 
 2 
 
 96 
 
 tl 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 tl 
 
 2i 
 
 6 
 
 (( 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 tt 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 tt 
 
 2i " " 
 
 5 
 
 ({ 
 
 4 
 
 65 
 
 (( 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 2} " " 
 
 5 
 
 (! 
 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 (C 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 3 " " 
 
 5 
 
 (C 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 (( 
 
 5 
 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 3i " " 
 
 4 
 
 (f 
 
 5 
 
 39 
 
 tt 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 (( 
 
 3i 
 
 4 
 
 (( 
 
 4 
 
 34 
 
 tt 
 
 3 
 
 
 9 
 
 a 
 
 3J " " 
 
 4 
 
 « 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 " 
 
 1 
 
 
 6 
 
 (1 
 
 4 It 11 
 
 4 
 
 ,t( 
 
 1 
 
 26 
 
 tt 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 4J " " 
 
 4 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 It 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (C 
 
 4i " 
 
 3 
 
 (t 
 
 5 
 
 21 
 
 I( 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 (( 
 
 4f " " 
 
 3 
 
 (( 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 l( 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 (C 
 
 5 " " 
 
 3 
 
 u 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 [( 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 5j <i 
 
 3 
 
 (( 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 It 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 tl 
 
 5i " " 
 
 3 
 
 tl 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 It 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 tl 
 
 5} c< ,1 
 
 3 
 
 (C 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 tl 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 6 " " 
 
 3 
 
 « 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 (( 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 (( 
 
 6i " " 
 
 2 
 
 .'( 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 (C 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 ({ 
 
 6i " '■ 
 
 2 
 
 it 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 (( 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 (C 
 
 6J " " 
 
 2 
 
 it 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 (( 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 (c 
 
 7 II tt 
 
 2 
 
 tl 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 (( 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 tl 
 
 7i " " 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 •1 
 
 4 
 
 It 
 
 
 
 U 
 
 7i " " 
 
 
 
 
 eet 6 in. of 7-5 inches in siza 
 
 " G ' 
 
 ' 8 
 
 " 8 ' 
 
 ' 8} " 
 
 ., 3 , 
 
 ' Si. " 
 
 '■ 1 ' 
 
 ' 8i " 
 
 " ' 
 
 ' 9 
 
 t, ' 
 
 ' 9i " 
 
 " ' 
 
 ' 9i " 
 
 t, ' 
 
 ' 91 " 
 
 " ' 
 
 ' 10 
 
 " 1 ' 
 
 ' lOi " 
 
 " 1 ' 
 
 ' lOi " 
 
 " ' 
 
 ' lOi " 
 
 " 3 ' 
 
 ' 11 " 
 
 " 7 ' 
 
 ' lU " 
 
 " 1 ' 
 
 ' m " 
 
 " 3 ' 
 
 . Ill 
 
 ., 3 . 
 
 • 12 
 
 " 1 ' 
 
 ■ 12i " 
 
 " ' 
 
 ' 124 " 
 
 " 8 ' 
 
 ' m " 
 
 " 3 ' 
 
 ' 13 
 
 " 9 ' 
 
 ' I3i " 
 
 .. ' 
 
 ' 13i " 
 
 " 6 ■ 
 
 ' 13? 
 
 It 4 . 
 
 . 14 « 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 293 
 
 496. — ^Weight of one Foot of Bar Iron of the following 
 
 forms. 
 
 *— 1 
 
 TIUC-KNESS. 
 
 SaUAEE. 
 
 OCTAGONAL. 
 
 ROUND. 
 
 THICKNESS 
 
 SaUARE. 
 
 OCTAGONAL. 
 
 ROUND. 
 
 Incbes, 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 3 
 
 29.45 
 
 24.27 
 
 23.14 
 
 u 
 
 5.11 
 
 4.14 
 
 4.02 
 
 2i 
 
 20.45 
 
 16.85 
 
 16.07 
 
 li 
 
 4.14 
 
 3.41 
 
 3.25 
 
 2i 
 
 16.56 
 
 13.65 
 
 13.02 
 
 1 
 
 3.27 
 
 2.70 
 
 2.57 
 
 2 
 
 13.09 
 
 10.79 
 
 10.29 
 
 i 
 
 2.51 
 
 2.06 
 
 1.97 
 
 li 
 
 11.50 
 
 9.48 
 
 9.0,4 
 
 i 
 
 1.84 
 
 1.53 
 
 1.45 
 
 If 
 
 10.02 
 
 8.26 
 
 ' 7.87 
 
 1 
 
 1.28' 
 
 1.05 
 
 1.00 
 
 11 
 
 8.64 
 
 7.12 
 
 6.79 
 
 i 
 
 .81 
 
 .(i7 
 
 .64 
 
 li 
 
 7.36 
 
 6.07 
 
 5.78 
 
 1 
 
 .46 
 
 .38 
 
 .36 
 
 1| 
 
 6.19 
 
 5.10 
 
 4.86 
 
 i 
 
 .17 
 
 .17 
 
 .16 
 
 Note. — The above Table shows pounds and hundredths of pounds. 
 
 497 «— A Table shoeing the Weight of 100 Fathoms of 
 Cable-laid Rope, from 2 to 26 inches* 
 
 ALSO A COMPARATIVE SIZE OF CHAIN. 
 
 
 
 
 ?= i 
 
 
 
 
 &i 
 
 SIZE, 
 
 TIIKEADS. 
 
 WEIGHT. 
 
 o S 
 
 SIZE. 
 
 THREADS. 
 
 WEIGHT. 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 CWL qcs. Iba. 
 
 
 
 
 cwl. qrs. ib8. 
 
 
 2 
 
 27 
 
 3 26 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 1098 
 
 40 1 12 
 
 i» 
 
 m 
 
 36 
 
 1 1 8 
 
 
 15 
 
 1170 
 
 43 1 
 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 1 3 25 
 
 
 15i 
 
 1251 
 
 45 3 26 
 
 u 
 
 3i 
 
 72 
 
 2 2 10 
 
 
 16 
 
 1332 
 
 48 3 24 
 
 
 4 
 
 99 
 
 3 10 
 
 i 
 
 16i 
 
 1413 
 
 51 3 21 
 
 
 ■ii 
 
 108 
 
 3 3 24 
 
 
 17 
 
 1503 
 
 55 1 
 
 u 
 
 5 
 
 135 
 
 4 3 23 
 
 
 17i 
 
 1593 
 
 58 2 6 
 
 
 5i 
 6 
 
 162 
 
 5 322 
 
 
 18 
 
 1683 
 
 61 3 13 
 
 li 
 
 189 
 
 6 3 21 
 
 
 I8i 
 
 1782 
 
 65 2 1 
 
 
 6i 
 
 216 
 
 7 3 21 
 
 
 19 
 
 1881 
 
 69 17 
 
 IJ 
 
 7 
 
 252 
 
 9 1 1 
 
 1 
 
 19J 
 
 1980 
 
 72 3 4 
 
 
 I' 
 
 288 
 
 10 2 9 
 
 ( 
 
 20 
 
 2088 
 
 76 3 1 
 
 
 336 
 
 12 26 
 
 f 
 
 20i 
 
 2187 
 
 80 1 16 
 
 
 ?* 
 
 378 
 
 13 3 15 
 
 
 21 
 
 2295 
 
 84 1 14 
 
 2 
 
 423 
 
 15 2 25 
 
 
 21i 
 
 2403 
 
 88 1 10 
 
 
 9i 
 10 
 
 468 
 
 17 22 
 
 J 
 
 22 
 
 2520 
 
 92 2 16 
 
 
 522 
 
 19 21 
 
 I 
 
 22i 
 
 2G46 
 
 97 I 3 
 
 
 lOi 
 
 a 
 m 
 
 12 
 121 
 13 
 I3i 
 
 576 
 
 21 19 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 27f)3 
 
 101 2 8 
 
 2* 
 
 630 
 
 23 18 
 
 
 23i 
 
 2680 
 
 105 3 14 
 
 
 684 :: 
 
 747 ;• 
 
 810 , 
 882 
 954 ' 
 
 25 15 
 27 1 23 
 29 3 3 
 32 1 19 
 35 7 
 
 U 
 
 u 
 u 
 
 24 
 
 24i 
 
 25 
 
 25i 
 
 26 
 
 3006 
 3132 
 3235 
 3393 
 3528 
 
 no 2 1 
 115 16 
 119 3 2 
 124 2 16 
 129 2 22 
 
 2i 
 2i 
 2i 
 
 H 
 
 1026 
 
 37 2 24 
 
 
 
 
 __ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .._ _ -rx ft 
 
 -X.1^^ 
 
 NoTE.-The Size Chain are set down opposite their respective Hemp Cables, 
 »s near as can be calculated, within a fraction. 
 
294 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 498. — i Table for showing the Strength of Hemp Cables j 
 their Weight, Size, and Number of Tarns in each* 
 
 
 
 
 BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 
 
 
 61z6 idIdcIiqSj 
 
 ?funibGr of Yiiins. 
 
 Weight of 100 
 
 
 MeoiL 
 
 
 
 Fathoms in lbs 
 
 Maximum. 
 
 Minimum. 
 
 
 2G 
 
 3528 
 
 14112 
 
 133.2 
 
 105.9 
 
 111.6 
 
 25i 
 
 3393 
 
 13572 
 
 117.5 
 
 101.9 
 
 107.3 
 
 25 
 
 3207 
 
 13008 
 
 113. 
 
 98. 
 
 103.3 
 
 24^ 
 
 3133 
 
 12488 
 
 114.4 
 
 94.4 
 
 102.5 
 
 24 
 
 3008 
 
 12024 
 
 115.7 
 
 91. 
 
 101.9 
 
 23^ 
 
 2880 
 
 11520 
 
 117. 
 
 87.0 
 
 101.3 
 
 23 
 
 27G3 
 
 11052 
 
 118.3 
 
 84.2 
 
 100.7 
 
 22i 
 
 21346 
 
 10584 
 
 119.5 
 
 81. 
 
 100.1 
 
 22 
 
 2529 
 
 10110 
 
 111.4 
 
 77.9 
 
 95. 
 
 21 i 
 
 2413 
 
 9648 
 
 103.5 
 
 74.9 
 
 90.1 
 
 21 
 
 2304 
 
 9316 
 
 95.8 
 
 72. 
 
 85.3 
 
 20J 
 
 2196 
 
 8784 
 
 88.3 
 
 09.2 
 
 80.6 
 
 20 
 
 2088 
 
 8352 
 
 81. 
 
 6G.5 
 
 76.1 
 
 19J 
 
 1980 
 
 7920 
 
 •70.7 
 
 02.1 
 
 71.3 
 
 19 
 
 1881 
 
 7524 
 
 72.0 
 
 57.9 
 
 66.6 
 
 18^ 
 
 1782 
 
 7128 
 
 08.6 
 
 53.8 
 
 03.1 
 
 1G93 
 
 0768 
 
 64.7 
 
 49.8 
 
 57.7 
 
 Hi 
 
 1597 
 
 0388 
 
 61. 
 
 46. 
 
 53.4 
 
 17 
 
 1513 
 
 0048 
 
 57.3 
 
 44.9 
 
 51. 
 
 16i 
 
 1423 
 
 5688 
 
 53.9 
 
 43.8 
 
 48.7 
 
 IG 
 
 1332 
 
 5328 
 
 50.5 
 
 43.8 
 
 40.5 
 
 15i 
 
 1251 
 
 5004 
 
 47.3 
 
 41.9 
 
 44.3 
 
 15 
 
 1179 
 
 4716 
 
 44.2 
 
 41. 
 
 43.3 
 
 Hi 
 
 1093 
 
 4392 
 
 41.0' 
 
 38.4 
 
 39.9 
 
 14 
 
 1026 
 
 4104 
 
 39.1 
 
 36. 
 
 37.0 
 
 13i 
 
 954 
 
 3816 
 
 3G.7 
 
 33.0 
 
 35.4 
 
 13 
 
 882 
 
 3538 
 
 34.4 
 
 31.3 
 
 33.3 
 
 12J 
 
 810 
 
 3240 
 
 33.2 
 
 29.3 
 
 31.3 
 
 12 
 
 756 
 
 3024 
 
 29.8 
 
 26.6 
 
 28.6 
 
 Hi 
 
 093 
 
 2772 
 
 27.6 
 
 24.2 
 
 26.1 
 
 11 
 
 030 
 
 2520 
 
 25.5 
 
 21.8 
 
 23.7 
 
 ^S* 
 
 576 
 
 2304 
 
 23.4 
 
 19.6 
 
 21.4 
 
 10 
 
 523 
 
 2088 
 
 21.5 
 
 17.5 
 
 19.2 
 
 9i 
 
 468 
 
 1872 
 
 19. 
 
 15.7 
 
 17.1 
 
 9 
 
 433 
 
 1728 
 
 10.7 
 
 14. 
 
 15.3 
 
 ?» 
 
 396 
 
 1584 
 
 14.6 
 
 12.4 
 
 13.4 
 
 8 
 
 315 
 
 1260 
 
 12.6 
 
 *■ 10.9 
 
 11.7 
 
 2» 
 
 288 
 
 1153 
 
 10.7 
 
 9.5 
 
 10.2 
 
 7 
 
 252 
 
 1008 
 
 9.3 
 
 8.3 
 
 8.8 
 
 ?» 
 
 216 
 
 864 
 
 8.1 
 
 7. 
 
 7.5 
 
 6 
 
 189 
 
 756 
 
 7. 
 
 5.8 
 
 6.3 
 
 ?» 
 
 162 
 
 648 
 
 5.9 
 
 4.8 
 
 5.3 
 
 5 
 
 135 
 
 540 
 
 5. 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.^ 
 
 1* 
 
 108 
 
 433 
 
 4. 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.4 
 
 4 
 
 90 
 
 360 
 
 3.3 
 
 2.5 
 
 2.7 
 
 ^* 
 
 69 
 
 276 
 
 2.4 
 
 1.9 
 
 2.1 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 216 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.5 
 
 Note.— The above Table shows tons and hundredths of tons. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 295 
 
 499.— A Table showing the Streugth of Plain-laid Rope 
 of three Strands. 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 
 
 
 Gize. 
 
 Number of Yams 
 ill Rope. 
 
 ■Weight of 100 
 Fathoms in Iba. 
 
 
 
 Mean* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Maximum. 
 
 Minimum. 
 
 
 12 
 
 1173 
 
 2940 
 
 45.5 
 
 35. 
 
 40. 
 
 Hi 
 
 1077 
 
 _ 
 
 41.7 
 
 32. 
 
 36.7 
 
 11 
 
 987 
 
 _ 
 
 38.2 
 
 29.3 
 
 33.6 
 
 lOi 
 
 900 
 
 _ 
 
 34.9 
 
 26.7' 
 
 30.7 
 
 10 
 
 816 
 
 2136 
 
 31.7 
 
 24.2 
 
 27.9 
 
 9i 
 
 738 
 
 _ 
 
 28.6 
 
 21.8 
 
 25.2 
 
 9 
 
 660 
 
 1712 
 
 25.7 
 
 19.6" 
 
 22.6 
 
 8i 
 
 591 
 
 — 
 
 23. 
 
 17.5 
 
 20.2 
 
 8 
 
 522 
 
 1379 
 
 20.4 
 
 15.5 
 
 18. 
 
 n 
 
 459 
 
 _ 
 
 18. 
 
 13.6 
 
 15.8 
 
 7 
 
 399 
 
 . 
 
 15.8 
 
 11.8 
 
 13.8 
 
 H 
 
 345 
 
 _ 
 
 13.7 
 
 10.2 
 
 12. 
 
 6 
 
 294 
 
 834 
 
 11.75 
 
 8.7 
 
 10.3 
 
 5i 
 
 249 
 
 712 
 
 9.8 
 
 7.3 
 
 8.7 
 
 5 
 
 204 
 
 _ ■ 
 
 8.2 
 
 6.1 
 
 7.2 
 
 H 
 
 168 
 
 413 
 
 6.7 
 
 5. 
 
 5.9 
 
 4 
 
 132 
 
 _ 
 
 5.3 
 
 4. 
 
 4.7 
 
 3^ 
 
 102 
 
 _ 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.2 
 
 3.7 
 
 3 
 
 75 
 
 203 
 
 3.1 
 
 2.4 
 
 2.8 
 
 24- 
 
 54 
 
 _ 
 
 2.2 
 
 1.8 
 
 2.1 
 
 2* 
 
 33 
 
 _ 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.4 
 
 1* 
 
 27 
 
 «. 
 
 1.28 
 
 1.13 
 
 1.23 
 
 * 4 
 
 14 
 
 21 
 15 
 
 - 
 
 .90 
 .60 
 
 .86 
 .53 
 
 .88 
 .56 
 
 V 
 
 12 
 
 _ 
 
 .58 
 
 .46 
 
 .51 
 
 ^ 
 
 9 
 
 _ 
 
 .51 
 
 .42 
 
 .46 
 
 8=-: 
 
 6 
 
 - 
 
 .28 
 
 .28 
 
 .28 
 
 Nom— The atove TaHe shows tons and hundredths of tens. 
 
296 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 600.— A Table for showing the Strength of Chain Cable, 
 as tested in Fifteen Fathom Lengths. 
 
 
 
 
 BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 
 
 
 6^e 
 
 
 •Weight of 100 
 
 
 
 Mean. 
 
 
 Strain in Tons. 
 
 Fathoms in lbs. 
 
 Maximum. 
 
 Mmimum. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 91i 
 
 27216 
 
 130.3 
 
 121.8 
 
 125.9 
 
 2i 
 
 81i 
 
 24276 
 
 116.2 
 
 108.6 
 
 112.3 
 
 2 
 
 72 
 
 21504 
 
 103. 
 
 96.25 
 
 99.5 
 
 li 
 
 631 
 
 18900 
 
 99. 
 
 88. 
 
 92.8 
 
 li 
 
 55-lr 
 
 16464 
 
 85.25 
 
 65. 
 
 74.1 
 
 If 
 
 47i 
 
 14196 
 
 75. 
 
 59.5 
 
 66.5 
 
 li 
 
 40^ 
 
 12096 
 
 65.5 
 
 54.5 
 
 59.5 
 
 li 
 
 34 
 
 10164 
 
 53.6 
 
 44.4 
 
 48.5 
 
 It 
 
 28i 
 
 8400 
 
 42.8 
 
 35.3 
 
 38.5 
 
 li 
 
 22f 
 
 6804 
 
 33. 
 
 27. 
 
 29.5 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 5376 
 
 27.25 
 
 22. 
 
 24.3 
 
 X 
 
 13t 
 
 4116 
 
 22.5 
 
 20.3 
 
 21.1 
 
 i 
 
 lOi 
 
 3024 
 
 15. 
 
 12.5 
 
 13.5 
 
 a- 
 
 8i 
 
 2541 
 
 12.3 
 
 10.8 
 
 11.4 
 
 i 
 
 7 
 
 2100 
 
 9.87 
 
 9.37 
 
 9.5 
 
 •ft 
 
 5i 
 
 1701 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 H 
 
 1344 
 
 6.3 
 
 5.9 
 
 6. 
 
 Note. — The above Table stows tons and hundredths of tona 
 
OE YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 297 
 
 501. — A Table showing the Strength of Short Ronnd- 
 liuked Bobstay, Bowsprit-shroud or Crane Chain, with- 
 out Studs, such as is used for Rigging, &c. 
 
 
 
 BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Faltioma in lbs. 
 
 Maximum. 
 
 Minimum. 
 
 
 strength. 
 
 If 
 
 15569 
 
 75. 
 
 68. 
 
 73. 
 
 31.6 
 
 l-l- 
 
 _ 
 
 64. 
 
 58.2 
 
 62.3 
 
 27. 
 
 1-ft- 
 
 — 
 
 69. 
 
 53.8 
 
 57.4 
 
 24.7 
 
 If 
 
 _ 
 
 54.2 
 
 49.6 
 
 52.8 
 
 22.6 
 
 1? 
 
 _ 
 
 49.7 
 
 45.5 
 
 48.4 
 
 20.6 
 
 _ 
 
 45.3 
 
 41.7 
 
 44.1 
 
 18.8 
 
 1-ft- 
 
 _ 
 
 41.2 
 
 38. 
 
 40.1 
 
 17. 
 
 H 
 
 7481 
 
 37.3 
 
 34.5 
 
 36.3 
 
 15.3 
 
 1^ 
 
 _ 
 
 33.6 
 
 31.2 
 
 32.7 
 
 13.6 
 
 6490 
 
 30.1 
 
 28.1 
 
 29.3 
 
 12. 
 
 if 
 
 5600 
 
 26.8 
 
 25.2 
 
 26.1 
 
 10.5 
 
 i 
 
 4500 
 
 23.7 
 
 22.5 
 
 23.1 
 
 9.1 
 
 •M 
 
 4000 
 
 . 20.9 
 
 20. 
 
 20.4 
 
 7.9 
 
 f 
 
 3449 
 
 17.8 
 
 16.6 
 
 17.3 
 
 6.8 
 
 4 
 
 2900 
 
 14.9 
 
 13.5 
 
 14.6 
 
 5.6 
 
 2538 
 
 12.3 
 
 10.8 
 
 12. 
 
 4.6 
 
 JL 
 
 2001 
 
 10. 
 
 8.7 
 
 9.7 
 
 3.8 
 
 1583 
 
 7.9 
 
 6.9 
 
 7.7 
 
 3. 
 
 1^ 
 
 a. 
 
 1060 
 
 6. 
 
 5.2 
 
 5.9 
 
 2.3 
 
 827 
 
 4.4 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.3 
 
 1.6 
 
 X 
 
 581 
 392 
 
 3. 
 1.9 
 
 2.7 
 1.7 
 
 3. 
 1.9 
 
 1.1 
 .75 
 
 * 
 
 ^ . 
 
 
 1.1 
 
 .97 
 
 1. 
 
 .42 
 
 Note.— The above Table shows tons and hundredths of tons. 
 
298 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 
 
 502.— Weight of Timber in a green and seasoned Statei 
 
 Description of Timber. 
 
 'Weight of Cubic Foot. 
 
 Green. 
 
 Seasoned. 
 
 Live Oak - 
 White Oak 
 Ked Oak - 
 Hickory - - 
 Locust . - - 
 Cypress - - 
 Cedar - - 
 Maple - - 
 Yellow Pino 
 White Pine 
 Spruce - - 
 Elm. - - - 
 Beech - - 
 White Ash 
 
 76 10 
 
 59 14 
 63 12 
 58 14 
 
 60 12 
 48 3 
 32 
 45 
 48 12 
 36 12 
 43 15 
 56 8 
 60 
 58 3 
 
 70 8 
 54 
 60 10 
 
 52 15 
 56 4 
 35 
 30 4 
 
 34 4 
 
 35 8 
 30 11 
 28 14 
 37 5 
 
 53 6 
 50 
 
 Note. — -The average weight of the different species of timber, used 
 in building and equipping ships-of-war in the United States' Navy, may 
 be reckoned about 50 lbs. to the cubic foot. 
 
 503.— A Table of Measures and Weights of different 
 
 Substances. 
 
 A ton of water (net weight), 250 gallons. Cub. fa. Iba. oz. 
 
 Acubicfoot of Water (specific gravity) - ....-.- 62 9 
 
 " " Sea-water ----- _ 642 
 
 " " New York Harbor-water -- — 63 14 
 
 " Cork _ 15 
 
 " " Tallow — 59 
 
 " " Platina _ 1218.75 
 
 " " Copper _ 486.75 
 
 " " Lead - _ 709.05 
 
 " Steel _ 489.08 
 
 " " Cast Iron - 450.45 
 
 A Bushel of Beans 100. 63. 
 
 A Ccrd of Wood (stowage) 128. 1700. 
 
 The Weight of a Man ancl his EflFects is from 3 to 21 cwt. 
 
 Note. — The above table will be found useful in making calculations of stow- 
 age, and also In keeping the ship properly trimmed. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 299 
 
 504.— A 
 
 Table ©f Weight of Tarred Cordage. 
 
 CABLES. 
 
 Fathom of 24 inch weighs ™l T % 
 
 23 " 10 9 
 
 20 « 3 IG 
 
 19 « 3 C 
 
 " 17 " 2 16 
 
 16 " 3 8 
 
 15 '■ 1 27 
 
 100 « 14 « 41 2 20 
 
 100 " 13i " 38 3 1 
 
 100 " 13 " 35 3 9 
 
 100 " 12i " 32 3 17 
 
 100 « Hi " 30 1 10 
 
 100 " 11 " 2G 1 19 
 
 100 " lOi " 23 1 17 
 
 100 " 10 « 21 3 
 
 HAWSERS OF 130 PATAOMS. 
 130 Fathoms of6j inch weighs 13 1 11 
 
 130 
 130 
 130 
 130 
 130 
 130 
 
 6 
 
 5i 
 
 5 
 
 4i 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 II 1 13 
 9 2 2 
 7 3 19 
 G 1 23 
 5 14 
 3 3 7 
 
 130 Fathoms of 3 inch weighs 
 
 130 
 130 
 130 
 130 
 130 
 
 2i 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 cwt. qr. lbs, 
 2 3 20 
 20 5 
 1 1 6 
 3 13 
 1 20 
 14 
 
 HAWSERS OP 120 FATHOMS. 
 
 120 Fathoms of 9J inch 
 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 120 
 
 9 
 
 8i 
 
 8 
 
 7i 
 
 7 
 
 Ci 
 
 G 
 
 5i 
 
 5 
 
 4i 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 17 
 26 
 
 6 
 16 
 18 
 19 
 
 weighs 22 2 
 
 20 1 
 
 ' 18 : 
 
 ' 16 
 
 13 3 
 
 12 
 
 10 I 
 
 9 13 
 
 7 3 7 
 
 62 I 
 
 5 23 
 
 4 18 
 
 3 1 22 
 
 2 3 11 
 
 13 
 
 1 1 4 
 
 505. — ^A Table showing the comparatiFe Strength be- 
 tween Iron Chains and Uemp Cables* 
 
 Also the Size required agreeabhj to Tonnage, with the Weight 
 equal to Cable. 
 
 t^TFTTl J^n ^^TTA TUT 
 
 VesBel's 
 
 Sfze of 
 
 Weight of 
 
 Proof 
 
 Weight pa 
 
 SIZE OF CHAIN. 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Rope. 
 
 Anchor. 
 
 required. 
 
 Fathom. 
 
 Five-sixteenths of an inch - - - 
 
 
 2i 
 
 _ 
 
 i ton. 
 
 5} 
 
 Three-eighths " 
 
 - 
 
 3} 
 
 - 
 
 i* 
 
 8 
 
 Seven-sixteenths " - . - 
 
 — 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 21 
 
 11 
 
 One-half « . - - 
 
 20 
 
 4f 
 
 11 cwt. 
 
 3 
 
 . 14 
 
 'Nine-sixteenth " . - - 
 
 30 
 
 5i 
 
 2 
 
 41 
 
 18 
 
 ■Five-eighths . " 
 
 40 
 
 6i 
 
 ,31 
 
 6 
 
 24 
 
 Eleven-sixteenths " - - - 
 
 50 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 71 
 
 28 
 
 Three-quarters " - - - 
 
 60 
 
 7i 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 33 
 
 TMrteen-sixteenths " . - - 
 
 75 
 
 8i 
 
 41 
 
 11 
 
 38 
 
 Seven-eighths " - - - 
 
 95 
 
 2* 
 
 51 
 
 13 
 
 44 
 
 Fifleen-sixteenths " - - - 
 
 120 
 
 10 
 
 61 
 
 15 
 
 60 
 
 One inch -------- 
 
 150 
 
 lOf 
 
 8 
 
 17 
 
 56 
 
 One and one-sixteenth inch - - 
 
 180 
 
 Hi 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 63 
 
 One and one-eighth inch - - - 
 
 210 
 
 12 
 
 101 
 
 21} 
 
 70 
 
 One and three-sixteenths inch - 
 
 240 
 
 121 
 
 13 
 
 24 
 
 78 
 
 One and one-quarter inch - - - 
 
 280 
 
 131 
 
 131 
 
 37 
 
 86 
 
 One and five-sixteenths inch - - 
 
 320 
 
 14i 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 . 96 
 
 One and three-eighths inch - - 
 
 360 
 
 15 
 
 16} 
 
 33 
 
 108 
 
 One and seven-sixteenths inch - 
 
 400 
 
 151 
 
 18 
 
 36 
 
 115 
 
 One and one-haB Bch - 
 
 450 
 
 16 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 125 
 
300 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 • 
 
 a 
 
 on 
 
 9 
 
 ES 
 
 I 
 
 e 
 
 
 « . 
 
 ?3 CO 
 
 ^ 3 
 
 " t 
 CO «^ 
 
 f " 
 
 ■♦^ , 
 ^^ 
 
 a 
 
 
 bo 
 
 « 
 bD 
 
 
 13 
 8 
 
 > 
 
 
 rfi 
 
 OQ 
 
 
 « 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 .a 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 "? 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 fc^ 
 
 * 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 to 
 
 
 SB" .-2 
 
 £.'s si" 
 
 V => p 3 u 
 ^ u S V 
 
 <■ C.^ CO 
 
 tooooooeoroo 
 
 «— aoinco-HOOi-Hf-" 
 
 C0Ol(MCNC?IO*>-iOI.74 
 
 fS.b 0) 2 o 
 
 J5 -> 
 
 OOOOOOOOGO 
 
 ^- S 
 
 '^ 
 
 C3 
 
 2 rHrHi-lf-tiHrHrHi-HrH J^ 
 
 bo 
 
 '3 
 
 o 
 
 
 s ? 
 
 <@ 
 
 73 
 
 «E3 
 
 
 ^ 3 C m" 
 75 CO & P 
 
 CQ 
 bo 
 
 cd 
 CQ 
 
 S CO CO CO O CO CO COO CO 
 
 ■S K g 05 O 
 
 & t) & 13 U 
 
 Bin 
 
 I I ■ I I I I 
 
 ■ ■till! 
 
 I t I I I I I 
 
 • I I I I ) I 
 
 I ■ 
 
 I I 
 
 060666666 
 
 D 
 
 0006666666 
 
 
 ffl 
 
 bo bo 
 
 .5.3 
 
 c;! cil 
 
 (U ft) 
 CO ta 
 
 H» K|» Mis) nfn «tn ten -4« •4a Ms N» mIb Hm 
 
 I 1 I I ■ I 
 I I I I I I 
 
 - -. i-'0»eo^»a5or-Qoci'H _^ 
 
 o o 
 
 3 
 bo" 
 
 n 
 
 13 
 
 9s 
 
 g- 
 
 a 
 
 I 
 
 .g 
 
 ^ 
 
 I 
 
 •H .H r^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 o 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 301 
 
 50T.-Cordage Table, showing the Weight of one Fathom 
 Kopc, from I inch to 24 inches inclusive, plain laid 
 S-strand, such as used for running rigging, &c. 
 
 Size Rope. 
 
 
 
 lbs. oz. 
 
 1 inch 
 
 weighs - - 
 
 .3f 
 
 li « 
 
 li 
 
 - . . 
 
 ;5f 
 
 H " 
 
 li 
 
 - - - 
 
 .Si 
 
 If « 
 
 a 
 
 - - . 
 
 •Hi 
 
 2 « 
 
 11 
 
 - . - 
 
 .14^ 
 
 2A " 
 
 li 
 
 
 1.2f 
 
 2i « 
 
 a 
 
 - . . 
 
 - 1.7 
 
 2f « 
 
 11 
 
 - . . 
 
 - lllf 
 
 3 « 
 
 u 
 
 - - . 
 
 - 2.1i 
 
 3-}- « 
 
 u 
 
 - . - 
 
 - 2.7 
 
 3i « 
 
 :'. 
 
 - - . 
 
 - 2.13i 
 
 3f « 
 
 u 
 
 - - - 
 
 - 3.2f 
 
 4 '• 
 
 11 
 
 - . - 
 
 - 3.11 
 
 4i « 
 
 tt 
 
 ... 
 
 - 4. If 
 
 4i « 
 
 u 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 4.I0I 
 
 4f « 
 
 !i 
 
 . . 
 
 - 5.3f 
 
 5 « 
 
 IE 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 5.12J 
 
 5i « 
 
 (( 
 
 . - . 
 
 - 6.5f 
 
 5i « 
 
 (b 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 7. 
 
 5f « 
 
 U 
 
 . . - 
 
 - 7.9^ 
 
 6 « 
 
 a 
 
 . . - 
 
 - 8.4f 
 
 6i- " 
 
 a 
 
 . . - 
 
 - 9. 
 
 6i " 
 
 u 
 
 . . . 
 
 9.1 If 
 
 6f " 
 
 u 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 10.8 
 
 7 « 
 
 ti 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 11.4f 
 
 71 u 
 
 u 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 12.2 
 
 7i « 
 
 a 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 13.0f 
 
 7f " 
 
 a 
 
 ... 
 
 - 13.13f 
 
 8 " 
 
 it 
 
 . . - 
 
 - 14.12^ 
 
 8i « 
 
 ti 
 
 ... 
 
 - IS.Ui 
 
 8k « 
 
 a 
 
 ... 
 
 - 16. 10^ 
 
 E| « 
 
 a 
 
 . . . 
 
 - 17.10^ 
 
 Size Rope. 
 
 
 
 lbs. oz. 
 
 9 inch 
 
 weigl 
 
 S- - 
 
 18.101 
 
 9i " 
 
 11 
 
 - - 
 
 - - ig.iif 
 
 9i « 
 
 (I 
 
 . . 
 
 - - 20.13f 
 
 gi (i 
 
 li 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 21.14f 
 
 10* « 
 
 (t 
 
 - - 
 
 - • 23. li 
 
 I^^ . " 
 
 li 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 24.3i 
 
 lOi « 
 
 ii 
 
 . . 
 
 - - 25.7 
 
 lOf " 
 
 ft 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 26.11-1 
 
 11 " 
 
 a 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 27.14J 
 
 Hi " 
 
 a 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 29. U 
 
 - - 30.9 
 
 Hi " 
 
 li 
 
 - - 
 
 Hf « 
 
 It 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 31.14 
 
 12 « 
 
 it 
 
 . . 
 
 - - 33.3 
 
 12i « 
 
 If 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 34.9i 
 
 12i « 
 
 li 
 
 - . 
 
 - - 36. 
 
 12f « 
 
 It 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 37.8 
 
 13 « 
 
 It 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 38.15 
 
 13i " 
 
 11 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 40.8i 
 
 13i « 
 
 It 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 42. 
 
 13f « 
 
 It 
 
 - 
 
 - - 43.9i 
 
 14 » 
 
 it 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 45.4f 
 
 15 « 
 
 11 
 
 - . 
 
 - - 52.0i 
 
 16 « 
 
 11 
 
 
 - - 59.5 
 
 17 « 
 
 11 
 
 . - 
 
 - 66.10 
 
 18 « 
 
 11 
 
 . 
 
 - - 74.10 
 
 19 « 
 
 it 
 
 - - 
 
 83.2 
 
 20 « 
 
 <i 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 92.11 
 
 21 « 
 
 it 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 102.1 
 
 22 " 
 
 If 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 112. 
 
 23 « 
 
 If 
 
 - . 
 
 - - 122.3 
 
 24 « 
 
 ft 
 
 . - 
 
 - - 134.6 
 
 JRiile tofmd llw weight of any sized Jiofc. — A rope of 1 Inch circumference re- 
 quires 486 fathcims to make one hundred weight. The superficial part of all cir- 
 cles being in proporlion to rhe square of their diameters, consequently the square 
 of their circumference. Therefore, a rope of 1 inch in circumference, whose 
 square is one, has 48ti fathoms to a cwt. ; and, therefore, 486 being divided by 
 the sonarc ot the circumference of any rope, the quotient will give the number of 
 lathoms. For instance, 
 
 9xy = 8 1)486(6. The number of fathoms in a cwt. 
 486 
 
 tofmd the vetgla if 120 fnilwrna «/ any sized Cffli^c— Multiply the circum- 
 by the circuml'erence, and divide the product by 4, and liie quotient will 
 
 Rule 
 ference by 
 be the number of cwts. in 120 fathoms. 
 
302 
 
 THE KE0GE- ANCHOR; 
 
 be 
 
 5 
 a 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 
 bO 
 
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 K5 
 
 
 
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 "^ 
 
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 ooq 
 
 
 
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 CO ^OOJ CT 
 
 00 '^ -^ 1- th t?i 
 
 r-^-'S* 
 
 
 
 
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 CO so CO CO TO 00 CO 
 
 COCMCM 
 
 
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 qqo«>q 
 
 00 000 01:0 
 
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OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
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304 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR J 
 
 510. — 1 Table showing the Qnantity of Provisions, Slop 
 Clothing- and Small Stores, for 200 men, for four months, 
 in the lit S* Nary* 
 
 SMALL STORES. 
 
 Tobacco (plugs) - - - 1,000 
 
 Soap (bars) - - 800 
 
 Mustard (bottles) 100 
 
 Pepper (bottles) - - 100 
 
 Knives (1 each) - 200 
 
 Spoons (1 each) - - - - 200 
 
 Pine Combs (1 each) - - - - 200 
 
 Coarse Combs (1 each) - - 200 
 
 Tin Pots (1 each) - - - 200 
 
 Tin Pans (1 each) 200 
 
 Scrubbing Brushes (1 each) 200 
 
 Ribbon (pieces) - - - 100 
 
 Tape (pieces) - ... - 100 
 
 Needles (papers) - - 100 
 
 White Thread (pounds) ... 50 
 
 Blue Thread (pounds) . - - 50 
 
 Thimbles (1 each) - - - - 200 
 
 Beeswax (cakes) . _ - . lOO 
 
 Blacking (boxes) - - 200 
 
 Scissors (1 pair each) - - 200 
 
 Shoe Brushes (1 pair each) - 200 
 
 Mittens (1 pair each) - - - - 200 
 
 Cotton Handkerch'iefe - 50 
 
 SLOP CLOTHING. 
 
 Mattresses(leach) - - - - - 200 
 
 Blankets (2 each) - - 400 
 
 Pea-jackets .._.--. lOO 
 
 Trowsers (1 pair each) - - - 200 
 
 Duck Frocks (1 each) - - - 200 
 
 Duck Trowsers (2 pairs each) - 400 
 
 White Flannel Shirts (2 each) - 400 
 
 Blue Flannel Shirts (2 each) - 400 
 
 Drawers (2 pairs each) - - - 400 
 
 Hats (1 each) - - - - 200 
 
 Shoes (1 pair each) .... 200 
 
 Stockings (2 pairs each) - - 400 
 
 Black Handkerchiefs (1 each) - 200 
 
 Boots (1 pair each) - - - 200 
 
 PROVISIONS. 
 
 Bread (pounds) - - - - 22,320 
 
 Beef (pounds) 14,653 
 
 Pork (pounds) 10,914 
 
 Flour (pounds) 1,819 
 
 Raisins (pounas) . - . - . 910 
 
 Tea (pounds) 400 
 
 Sugar (pounds) - - - 3,210 
 
 Rice (pounds') 3,636 
 
 Beans (pounds) - - - . . 5,460 
 
 Pickles (pounds) - - - - 1,819 
 
 Vinegar (gallons) . - - - 228 
 
 Spirits (gallons) - ... 750 
 
 Allowing per centagefor waste. 
 
 N. B. — All recruits, when received on board of receiving-ships of the U. S. 
 Navy, are required to have an outfit in slop clothing, &c., of one blue clcth jacket, 
 one pair of blue cloth trowsers, 2 duck frocks, one pair of duck trowsers, two blue 
 flannel shirts, one pair of drawers, one hat, one pair of shoes, two pairs of stock- 
 ings, one black silk handkerchief, two pounds of tobacco, two pounds of soap, one 
 knife, one tin pot, pan and spoon ; the greater part of which they have when 
 transferred to vessels for sea-service. This being the case, there is no necessity 
 for having the full amount, as above stated, in slops and small stores in the pur- 
 ser's department, for issue in the course of four months. 
 
 QUANTITY OF WATER FOR EACH CLASS. 
 
 Ships of the Line — Three Decks, 110,000 gallons ; Two Decks 
 —1st Class, 82,000 gals. ; 2d Class, 78,000 gals. ; iSazees, 55,000 
 gals. ; Frigates— 2,2 Pounder, 48,000 gals. ; 24 Pounder, 43,000 
 gals. ; 18 Pounder, 34,900 gals. ; Sloops— 22 Pounder, 21,000 
 gals. ; 24 Pounder, 19,000 gals. ; Sixteen 32 lb. Carronades, 
 15,000 gals. ; Brigs, 8,000 gals. ; Brigantines and Schooners 
 7,900 gals. ; Steamers— \si Class, 23,500 gals. ; 2d Class, 10,000 
 gals. ; 3d Class, 5,000 gals. ; Receiving Vessels — Ships of the 
 Line, 14,600 gals. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 305 
 
 ^ 511.— Exhibit of the Navy Ration, 
 
 Showing the component parts for each day of the week, and the value at 
 which they are to be computed, under the 2d, ith and 5th Sections of 
 the Act of Congress, " To establish and reflate the Navy RatioTi," ap- 
 proved 29th August, 1842. 
 
 • 
 
 Founds. 1 
 
 Ounces. 
 
 Pints. 
 
 Days of the IVeelc. 
 
 J 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 O 
 fa 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 8 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 s-s 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 P3 
 
 
 ill 
 
 1 
 
 j 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Either. 
 
 « 
 
 Sunday -.--..- 
 Monday ------- 
 
 Tuesday - - - - - - 
 
 Wednesday - - - - - 
 
 Thursday ------ 
 
 Friday 
 
 Saturday 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 
 Weekly auantity - - - 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 J 
 
 98 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 li 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 H 
 
 VALUATION OP THE WEEKLY QUANTITY, &c. 
 
 3 pounds of Pork 
 
 4 " Beef 
 1 " Flour 
 1 " Rice 
 
 } " Raisins, &c. 
 
 i " Pickles, &c. 
 98 ounces of Bread 
 
 14 " Sugar 
 
 1| " Tea 1 
 
 7 " Coffee > of same val. 
 
 7 " Cocoa ) 
 
 4 " Butter - 
 
 t " Cheese - 
 
 14 pints of Beans 
 
 i " Molasses 
 
 } " Vinegar - 
 
 1| " Spirits - 
 
 Averaging 20 cents per day, or weekly - 
 
 The foregoing exhibit of the component parts, &c., of the Navy Ka- 
 tion, has been compiled in pursuance of the act of Congress, and will 
 be strictly observed by commanders of vessels and by pursers, as a 
 regulation of this Department, prescribing the daily issue of provisions, 
 and the valuation at which they are to be commuted. All persons 
 "attached to vessels for sea-service," are entitled individually to one 
 
 ration per day. 
 
 Every commissioned or warrant-officer, of, or over, twenty-one years 
 of age may, at his option, commute the entire ration, or only the spirit 
 20 
 
 - 7i 
 
 cents pel 
 
 pound, 
 
 - 6 
 
 
 
 - 4 
 
 (1 
 
 ti 
 
 - 3 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 - 13 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 -m 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 . 4 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 . 8 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 . 80 
 
 i( 
 
 tt 
 
 -^ 
 
 » 
 
 tt 
 
 - 16 
 
 ({ 
 
 tt 
 
 - 24 
 
 tt 
 
 gallon 
 
 - 64 
 
 tt 
 
 (( 
 
 -20 
 
 tt 
 
 (( 
 
 - 64 
 
 tt 
 
 (t 
 
 . 
 
 28i cenU 
 
 . 
 
 24 " 
 
 . 
 
 4 " 
 
 - 
 
 3 " 
 
 . 
 
 6i " 
 
 - 
 
 6i " 
 
 - 
 
 34i " 
 
 - 
 
 7 " 
 
 - 
 
 8^1 " 
 
 - 
 
 5i " 
 
 
 4 " 
 
 . 
 
 4i " 
 
 . 
 
 4 " 
 
 - 
 
 U " 
 
 
 14 " 
 
 S1.40 
 
3f)6 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 * 
 
 portion of it : provided the commutation, in either ease, be made foi 
 not less than three consecutive months. And every other person, of 
 the above-named age, entitled to a ration, may commute the spirit 
 component, under the limitation of time, unless sooner detached, or 
 entitled to a discharge. 
 
 No officer or other person, under twenty-dne years of age, shall be 
 permitted to draw the spirit part of his ration. Its value in money, 
 as estimated by the foregoing table, will be credited to him by the 
 purser, aud paid whenever the commander of the vessel, to which such 
 officer or person may belong, shall direct. 
 
 The messes of a ship's crew may, with the sanction of the command- 
 ing officer, commute, daily or weekly, one or more entire rations, for 
 not less than three months (unless sooner detached, or entitled to a 
 discharge) ; the commutation to be paid by the purser, at such times 
 as the said commanding officer shall deem fit. 
 
 Pursers having the delivery of rations, will make out and transmit, 
 monthly and otherwise, by the earliest opportunities, to the Bureau of 
 Provisions and Clothing of this Department, abstracts of provisions, 
 agreeably to such forms as may be furnished to them from that bureau, 
 approved by the Second Comptroller of the Treasury ; their provision 
 accounts, as heretofo»e, will be rendered to the Fourth Auditor's 
 office. 
 
 A. P. UPSHUE, Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 AN ACT TO ESTABLISH AND KEGULATE THE NAVY 
 
 RATION. 
 
 Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of 
 the United States of America, in Congress assembled, That the navy 
 ration shall consist of the following daily allowance of provisions for 
 each person ;. — One pound of salted pork, with half a pint of peas or 
 beans.; or one pound of salted beef, with half a pound of flour, and a 
 quarter of a pound of raisins, dried apples, or other dried fruits ; or 
 one pound of salt beef, with half a pound of rice, two ounces of butter, 
 and two ounces of cheese ; together with fourteen ounces of biscuit, 
 one quarter of an ounce of tea, or one ounce of coffee, or one ounce of 
 cocoa, two ounces of sugar, and one gill of spirits ; and of a weekly 
 allowance of half a pound of pickles or cranberries, half a pint of molas- 
 ses, and half a pint of vinegar. 
 
 Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That fresh meat may be substituted 
 for salt beef or pork, and vegetables or sauer-kraut for other articles 
 usually issued with the salted meats, allowing one and a quarter pounds 
 of fresh meat for one pound of salted beef or pork, and regulating the 
 quantity of vegetables or sauer-kraut, so as to equal the value of those 
 articles for which they may be substituted. 
 
 , Sec. 3. And he it further enacted. That, should it be necessary to vary 
 the above described daily allowance, it shall be lawful to substitute one 
 pound of soft bread, or one pound of flour, or half a pound of rice, for 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 307 
 
 fourteen ounces of biscuit; half a pint of wine for a gill of spirits; 
 half a pound of rice for half a pint of peas or beans ; half a pint of 
 beans or peas for half a pound of rice. When it may be deemed ex- 
 pedient by the President of the United States. Secretary of the Navy, 
 commander of a fleet or squadron, or a single ship, when not acting 
 under the authority of another officer on foreign service, the articles 
 of butter, cheese, raisins, dried apples (or other dried fruits), pickles 
 and molasses may be , substituted for each other and for spirits ; fro- 
 vided the article substituted shall not exceed in value the article for 
 which it may be issued, according to the scale of prices which is or 
 may be established for the same.. 
 
 Sec. 4. And he it further enacted, That in cases of necessity the daily 
 allowance of provisions may be diminished or varied, by the discretion 
 of the senior officer present in command ; but payment shall be made 
 to the persons whose allowance shall be thus diminished, according to 
 the scale of prices which is or may be established for the same ; but a 
 «ommander, who shall thus make a diminution or variation, shall report 
 to his commanding officer, or to the Navy Department, the necessity 
 for the same, and give to the purser written orders, specifying particu- 
 larly the diminution or reduction which is to be made. 
 
 Sec. 5. And be it further enacted, That no commissioned officer, or 
 midshipman, or any person under twenty-one years of age, shall be 
 allowed to draw the spirit part of the daily ration ; and all other per- 
 sons shall be permitted to relinquish that nart of their ration, under 
 such restrictions as the President of the United. States may autho- 
 rize ; and to every person who, by this section, is prohibited from 
 drawing, or who may relinquish, the spirit part of his ration,- there 
 shall be paid, in lieu thereof, the value of the same in money, accord- 
 ing to the prices which are or may be established for the same. 
 
 Sec. 6. And be it further enacted, That the provisions of this act shall 
 go into effect, in the United States, on the first day of the succeeding 
 quarter after it becomes a law ; and in vessels abroad, on the first day 
 of the succeeding quarter after its official receipt, and any acts, or 
 parts of acts, whish may be contrary to, or inconsistent with, the pro- 
 risions of this act, shall be and are hereby repealed. 
 
 BERTH-DECK, OR SAILORS' MESS-TABLE. 
 
308 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 512.-TABLE 
 
 For finding the Distance of an Object by two Bearings, and 
 the Distance run between them. 
 
 
 — 1 
 
 DIFFEEENdE BETWEEN THE COURSE AND FIRST BEARING IN POINTS 
 
 1 3J 
 4 
 
 OP THE COMPASS. 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 3^ 
 
 ii 
 
 4 
 
 4i 
 
 5 
 
 5i 
 
 6 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 
 7i 
 
 8 
 
 8i 
 
 9 
 
 9i 
 
 10 
 
 I 
 1.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4i 
 
 0.81 
 
 1.23 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 0.69 
 
 1.00 
 
 1.45 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5J 
 
 0.60 
 
 0.8.5 
 
 1.17 
 
 1.66 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.74 
 
 1.00 
 
 1.35 
 
 1.85 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6i 
 
 0.49 
 
 0,67 
 
 0.88 
 
 1.14 
 
 1.50 
 
 3.02 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 0.46 
 
 0.61 
 
 0.79 
 
 1.00 
 
 1.27 
 
 1.64 
 
 2.17 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7i 
 
 0.43 
 
 0.57 
 
 0.73 
 
 0.90 
 
 1.11 
 
 1.39 
 
 1,77 
 
 2.30 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 0.41 
 
 0.53 
 
 0.67 
 
 0.82 
 
 1,00 
 
 1.32 
 
 1,50 
 
 1.87 
 
 2.41 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 8i 
 
 0.40 
 
 0.51 
 
 0.63 
 
 0,76 
 
 0,92 
 
 1.09 
 
 1,31 
 
 1.58 
 
 1.90 
 
 2.50 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 0.39 
 
 0.49 
 
 0.60 
 
 0.73 
 
 0,85 
 
 1.00 
 
 1.18 
 
 1.39 
 
 1.66 
 
 2.03 
 
 3.56 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.48 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.69 
 
 0,80 
 
 0.93 
 
 1.08 
 
 1.25 
 
 1.46 
 
 1.72 
 
 3.08 
 
 2.60 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.47 
 
 0.57 
 
 0.66 
 
 0,76 
 
 0.88 
 
 1.00 
 
 1.14 
 
 1.31 
 
 1.51 
 
 1.76 
 
 2.11 
 
 3.61 
 
 
 
 
 
 104 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.47 
 
 0.56 
 
 0.65 
 
 0,74 
 
 0.84 
 
 0.94 
 
 1.06 
 
 1.19 
 
 1.35 
 
 1.55 
 
 1.79 
 
 2.12 
 
 2.60 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 0,39 
 
 0.47 
 
 0.56 
 
 0.64 
 
 0.72 
 
 0.81 
 
 0.90 
 
 1.00 
 
 1.11 
 
 1.34 
 
 1.39 
 
 1.57 
 
 1.80 
 
 2.11 
 
 2.56 
 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 0.40 
 
 0.48 
 
 0.56 
 
 0.63 
 
 0.71 
 
 0.79 
 
 0,87 
 
 0.95 
 
 1.05 
 
 1.15 
 
 1.27 
 
 1.41 
 
 1.58 
 
 1.79 
 
 2.08 
 
 2.50 
 
 
 12 
 
 0.41 
 
 0.49 
 
 0,57 
 
 0.64 
 
 0.71 
 
 0.78 
 
 0.85 
 
 0.93 
 
 1.00 
 
 1,08 
 
 1.18 
 
 1.29 
 
 1.41 
 
 1.57 
 
 1.76 
 
 2.03 
 
 2.41 
 
 12i 
 
 0.43 
 
 0.51 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.65 
 
 0.71 
 
 0.T7 
 
 0.83 
 
 0.90 
 
 0.97 
 
 1.03 
 
 1.11 
 
 1.20 
 
 1.29 
 
 1.41 
 
 1.55il.72 
 
 1.96 
 
 The Table is to be entered with the number of points con- 
 tained between the ships head and \h& first beiaring of the object, 
 at the top, and with the number of points, reckoned the same 
 way, between the ship's head and the second bearing, at the 
 side ; the number in the table at the intersection of the two col- 
 umns being multiplied by the distance run, is the distance from 
 the object at the time the last bearing was taken. 
 
 Example. — A Light-house bears N. W., and after runnmg 
 W. by S. 8 miles, it bears N. N. E. ; the number of points be- 
 tween W. by S. and N. W. is 5, and that between W. by S. and 
 N. N. E. is 11 ; then under 5 points at the top, and abreast of 11 
 points at the side, stands the number 0.9, which being multi- 
 plied by 8 gives 7.2 miles, the distance at the time of the last 
 (N. N. E.) bearing. 
 
 If the bearings are observed to quarter points, the numbers 
 may be taken out accordingly ; this needs no example. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 309 
 
 513.— Dimensions of the Masts and Spars of tlie U. S» 
 Steam-sliip Princeton. 
 
 49 ft. 2 "in. Eore-mast, 70 ft. Head, 12 ft. Diameter, 24i in. 
 
 53 ft. Main-mast, 74 ft. " 12 ft. " 25 in. 
 
 46 ft. 8 in. Mizen-mast, 54 ft. 6 in. " 10 ft. " 18i in. 
 
 Fore and Main Top-mast, 42 ft. « 7 ft. 6 in. Cap, 14^ in. 
 
 Dc Top-gallant M,, 22 ft. Hoist, 14 ft. 6 in. EoyalQ ft. Pole-cap, Si in. 
 Mizen Top-mast, 33 ft. Head, 5 ft. 6 in. Cap, 11 in. 
 
 " Top-gallant Mast, 18 ft. Hoist, 12 ft, Royal, 7 ft. Pole, 6f in. 
 
 Ft. In. Ft. In. Inch, 
 
 Fore and Main Yard, - 68. - . - - Arms, 4. Sling, 15^ 
 
 " " Top Yard, - 54. - - - - " 4.6 " 13 
 
 « " Top-gal't Yard, 37. - - - - "2.6 « 7^ 
 
 « " Royal Yard, 25.6 - - - - "1.3 " 5^ 
 
 Mizen Yard, - - 54. - - - - « 4.6 « 13 
 
 « Top Yard, - - - 39v - - « 3.6 " 9 
 
 « Top-gallant Yard, 26.6 - - - " 1.9 " 6i- 
 
 " Royal Yard, - - - . 19. - - - - "1. "4 
 
 Bowsprit (Outboard), - - 25.6 - - - - - Bed, 25 
 
 Jib-boom " -24. Inb'd, 20 ft. Head, 3. Cap, 13i 
 
 Flying " " - - 19. - - " 5. " 8 
 
 Spanker-boom, - - - 47.6 - - - "2. Slings, 9 
 
 Spanker-gaff, -, - ... 39. - - - - "8. '^'^ ' J 
 
 Swinging-booms - - - 45.6 " 8 
 
 Top-mast Steering-sail Booms, 35. " 7 
 
 T. G. M. " " 28. " 5i 
 
 Royal " " 19. " 3f 
 
 Lower « Yards, 17. -5 
 
 Top-mast ^ " " 21. 5 
 
 T. G.M. " " 16. - 4 
 
 Royal " " 10. ;; 3 
 
 Mizen Try-sail Mast, - - - 38. - - - - : " '4 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 The Fore-mast from top of deck to top of kelson is buried, - 20. 4 
 
 The Main-mast « " " " " ^^„.l 
 
 The Mizen-mast « " " " " „^-'° 
 
 "Which leaves the Fore-mast just - - " _ - 73 7 
 
 And the Main-mast, - - - " ' 156 
 
 Length between perpendiculars, " " ' J ' ' 155" 2 
 
 Length of Spar-deck, - - - ■ " ' ^ - 142 9 
 
 Length of Keel, - ' ' ' . . 30 
 
 Extreme breadth of Beam, - - - ■ ■ ' " oi' 8 
 
 Depth of Hold to Spar-deck, - - " ■ ' .2 3* 
 Dead rise at half breadth, ---.-- 
 
310 
 
 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 Kg . 
 S- I 
 
 la 
 
 I- 
 o 
 
 .a 
 
 ^ -3 
 Kg ^.g 
 
 ■3-: B • 
 
 3 
 
 53 '^=' 
 
 .a 
 a 
 
 .a 
 
 OS 
 
 
 »E 
 
 
 
 
 
 Kg 
 
 I- 
 o 
 
 S.g 
 
 l.g 
 
 ^ . I 
 5.g -i-g 
 
 !«• Sg 
 Kg >.--i 
 
 a, 
 
 02 
 
 I 
 
 .g 
 
 
 CI) 3 
 
 O 03 
 
 O 
 
 Eh 
 Id 
 
 01 
 
 09 
 
 =3 
 
 ■ I '^ 
 
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3ii^ 515. — A Table showing the Dimensions of the Masts 
 
 FRENCH SHIPS AS PUBLISHED, AND 
 
 
 Tbree-deck Sbips. 
 
 Two-deck Sllips. 
 
 
 
 FNfir.isrT 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 First Class. 
 
 
 
 
 XJAt VlMji.OHt 
 
 AMERICAN. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 
 3 
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 i 
 
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 tui 
 
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 s 
 
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 Ft. In 
 
 Inch. 
 
 Fi. la. 
 
 Inch 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Inch 
 
 FL In. 
 
 Inch. 
 
 Ft In. 
 
 inch 
 
 Length of Lo-wer-decJc - - 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 205. 
 
 _ 
 
 206.6 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 193.10 
 
 _ 
 
 Breadth Extreme - - - 
 
 - 
 
 
 54.6 
 
 - 
 
 59.6 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 51.5 
 
 - 
 
 Main Mast to the hound - 
 
 133. 
 
 41. 
 
 106.7 
 
 41 
 
 109.8 
 
 m 
 
 124.6 
 
 40. 
 
 101.7 
 
 39J 
 
 Main Mast head - - 
 
 22. 
 
 - 
 
 20.7 
 
 — 
 
 18.1 
 
 
 20. 
 
 _ 
 
 19.8 
 
 
 MainTop-mastto the hound 
 
 70. 
 
 21.5 
 
 64.11 
 
 32 
 
 68.5 
 
 2ii 
 
 70. 
 
 31.5 
 
 59.8 
 
 20| 
 
 Main Top-mast head 
 
 12. 
 
 - 
 
 10.1 
 
 - 
 
 9.4 
 
 _ 
 
 12. 
 
 - 
 
 9.7 
 
 _ 
 
 Main Top-gallant Mast to 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the hound - - 
 
 41. 
 
 12. 
 
 33. 
 
 12J 
 
 35.2 
 
 12J 
 
 41. 
 
 12. 
 
 30.5 
 
 Hi 
 
 Main Top-gallant Mast 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 pole 
 
 24. 
 
 9.5 
 
 23. 
 
 - 
 
 19.2 
 
 - 
 
 24. 
 
 9.5 
 
 21.6 
 
 - 
 
 Fore Mast to the hound 
 
 120. 
 
 37. 
 
 98.11 
 
 38 
 
 102.3 
 
 391 
 
 115. 
 
 36.5 
 
 92.6 
 
 37 
 
 Fore Mast head - - . - 
 
 20. 
 
 - 
 
 19.1 
 
 _ 
 
 17. 
 
 
 18. 
 
 
 18.6 
 
 
 Pore Top-mast to the hound 
 
 63. 
 
 21.5 
 
 52.2 
 
 22 
 
 63.10 
 
 23^ 
 
 63. 
 
 21.5 
 
 53.10 
 
 20j 
 
 Fore Top-Mast head 
 
 10.6 
 
 
 9.2 
 
 _ 
 
 8.6 
 
 _ 
 
 10.6 
 
 _ 
 
 8.8 
 
 
 Fore Top-gallant Mast to 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the hound - - - . 
 
 37.6 
 
 12. 
 
 30.1 
 
 11 
 
 30.11 
 
 Hi 
 
 37.6 
 
 12. 
 
 36.4 
 
 10 
 
 Fore Top-gallant Mast 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 pole ■ - - 
 
 22. 
 
 8.7i 
 
 21. 
 
 - 
 
 17. 
 
 - 
 
 32. 
 
 8.7i 
 
 20. 
 
 
 Mizen Mast to the hound - 
 
 110. 
 
 27. 
 
 73.4 
 
 25 
 
 76.7 
 
 27i 
 
 105. 
 
 26.5 
 
 71.2 
 
 351 
 
 Mizen Mast head 
 
 17. 
 
 _ 
 
 12.9 
 
 
 11.8 
 
 
 16. 
 
 
 12.10 
 
 MizenTop mast tothe hound 
 
 55. 
 
 16.5 
 
 46.6 
 
 m 
 
 48. 
 
 14f 
 
 55. 
 
 16.5 
 
 43.9 
 
 14 
 
 Mizen Top-mast head - - 
 
 9. 
 
 _ 
 
 7.4 
 
 
 6.4 
 
 
 9. 
 
 
 7. 
 
 
 Mizen Top-gallant Mast to 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the hound" ■ - - 
 
 33.6 
 
 9.5 
 
 22. 
 
 8! 
 
 27.11 
 
 9i 
 
 33.6 
 
 9.5 
 
 21.7 
 
 Si 
 
 Mizen Top-gallant Mast 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 pole 
 
 20. 
 
 7. 
 
 15. 
 
 - 
 
 14.11 
 
 - 
 
 30. 
 
 7. 
 
 17.6 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 Main Yard - - - 
 
 110. 
 
 24. 
 
 109.3 
 
 26 
 
 117. 
 
 m 
 
 107.6 
 
 23.5 
 
 103.3 
 
 24j 
 
 Fore Yard - - - - 
 
 100. 
 
 23. 
 
 95. 
 
 23| 
 
 106.6 
 
 25i 
 
 96. 
 
 21.5 
 
 89.9 
 
 21i 
 
 Cross-Jack Yard - - ' 
 
 80. 
 
 16. 
 
 78.8 
 
 165 
 
 93. 
 
 m 
 
 80. 
 
 16. 
 
 74.3 
 
 16 
 
 Main Top-sail Yard 
 
 82. 
 
 18. 
 
 78.8 
 
 16| 
 
 83.4 
 
 17 
 
 78. 
 
 17.5 
 
 74.3 
 
 16 ' 
 
 Fore Top-sail Yard - 
 
 75. 
 
 16. 
 
 69. 
 
 I4f 
 
 78.6 
 
 17 
 
 71. 
 
 16. 
 
 64.8 
 
 135 
 
 Mizen Top-sail Yard 
 
 52. 
 
 11. 
 
 52.6 
 
 11 
 
 60.8 
 
 135 
 
 53. 
 
 11. 
 
 49. 
 
 lOi 
 
 Main Top-gallant Yard - 
 
 52. 
 
 10. 
 
 51.10 
 
 lOj 
 
 54.4 
 
 lOi 
 
 52. 
 
 10.5 
 
 46. 
 
 91 
 
 Pore Top-gallant Yard - 
 
 48. 
 
 9.5 
 
 46.3 
 
 9i 
 
 48.11 
 
 9 
 
 46. 
 
 9.5 
 
 38.10 
 
 8 
 
 Mizen Top-ga.lant Yard - 
 
 33. 
 
 6. 
 
 36.3 
 
 7i 
 
 43.7 
 
 8i 
 
 33. 
 
 6.5 
 
 34. 
 
 7 
 
 Bowsprit - - 
 
 81. 
 
 _ 
 
 75.1 
 
 37 
 
 74.6 
 
 40| 
 
 78. 
 
 
 71.11 
 
 36 
 
 Sprit-sail Yard 
 
 52. 
 
 11. 
 
 69. 
 
 14| 
 
 73.5 
 
 16J 
 
 53. 
 
 11. 
 
 64.8 
 
 13J 
 
 Spaiiker Boon. 
 
 60. 
 
 13. 
 
 74.4 
 
 14| 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 60. 
 
 13. 
 
 70.2 
 
 135 
 
 Gaff 
 
 38. 
 
 9. 
 
 55.9 
 
 12i 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 38. 
 
 9. 
 
 43. 
 
 7J 
 
 lij-Bopm - . - 
 
 60. 
 
 Cap 
 
 16.5 
 
 46.3 
 
 9i 
 
 63.11 
 
 17 
 
 60. 
 
 Cap. 
 16.5 
 
 50. 
 
 145 
 
and lards of American, English and Frencli Ships. 313 
 
 REDUCED TO ENGLISH MEASURE. 
 
 Two-deck Ships. | 
 
 Frigates. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d Class. II 
 
 AMERICAN. 
 
 FURT TSTI 
 
 FRENCH 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 imerican| 
 
 ENGLISH. 1 FRENCH. | 
 
 1st Class.i2d Class. 
 
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 191.8 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 176. 
 
 _ 
 
 179.11 
 
 __ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 151.5 
 
 _ 
 
 151.2 
 
 
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 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
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 - 
 
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 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
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 38i 
 
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 93. 
 
 36 
 
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 105. 
 
 34.6 
 
 35. 
 
 31.5 
 
 77.6 
 
 28 
 
 81.2 
 
 39i 
 
 17. 
 
 _ 
 
 20. 
 
 _ 
 
 18. 
 
 _ 
 
 15.11 
 
 
 18. 
 
 _ 
 
 16. 
 
 _ 
 
 15. 
 
 - 
 
 13.1 
 
 
 65.5 
 
 21i 
 
 70. 
 
 21.5 
 
 56.2 
 
 19i 
 
 60.2 
 
 20i 
 
 63. 
 
 19.3 
 
 56. 
 
 )7. 
 
 46.10 
 
 16i 
 
 52.10 
 
 Hi 
 
 9. 
 
 
 10. 
 
 - 
 
 9.1 
 
 
 9. 
 
 
 9.7 
 
 - 
 
 9.6 
 
 - 
 
 7.6 
 
 - 
 
 7.11 
 
 
 34.2 
 
 111 
 
 41. 
 
 12. 
 
 29.0^ 
 
 11 
 
 35. 
 
 Hi 
 
 37.6 
 
 11. 
 
 33.6 
 
 10. 
 
 23.8 
 
 9 
 
 30.11 
 
 lOS 
 
 18.1 
 
 - 
 
 24. 
 
 9.5 
 
 21. 
 
 - 
 
 13. 
 
 - 
 
 22. 
 
 8.8 
 
 20. 
 
 6.6 
 
 19. 
 
 - 
 
 17. 
 
 
 95.11 
 
 36| 
 
 105. 
 
 33. 
 
 84.9 
 
 
 88.5 
 
 36i 
 
 95. 
 
 31.5 
 
 86. 
 
 28. 
 
 71.1 
 
 25 
 
 72.1 
 
 26} 
 
 15.11 
 
 
 18. 
 
 
 16.6 
 
 _ 
 
 14.11 
 
 _ 
 
 16. 
 
 — 
 
 14.6 
 
 - 
 
 !?.9 
 
 - 
 
 13.1 
 
 
 59.11 
 
 m 
 
 63. 
 
 21.5 
 
 50. 
 
 _ 
 
 57.11 
 
 20i 
 
 56. 
 
 19.3 
 
 51. 
 
 17. 
 
 41.6 
 
 16i 
 
 48.1 
 
 nj 
 
 8.2 
 
 
 10.6 
 
 
 8. 
 
 - 
 
 7. 
 
 - 
 
 9.6 
 
 - 
 
 8.4 
 
 - 
 
 6.8 
 
 - 
 
 7.2 
 
 
 29.10 
 
 m 
 
 37.6 
 
 12. 
 
 25.3i 
 
 n 
 
 29.10 
 
 m 
 
 33.6 
 
 11. 
 
 30. 
 
 10. 
 
 20.5 
 
 71 
 
 27.8 
 
 101 
 
 15.11 
 
 - 
 
 22. 
 
 8.7i 
 
 19.6 
 
 - 
 
 10.7 
 
 - 
 
 20. 
 
 7.5 
 
 18. 
 
 6.6 
 
 17.6 
 
 
 14.11 
 
 
 67.11 
 
 m 
 
 98. 
 
 26. 
 
 66.7 
 
 m 
 
 57. 
 
 19 
 
 84, 
 
 24. 
 
 76. 
 
 20. 
 
 57. 
 
 19 
 
 57.6 
 
 19J 
 
 10.7 
 
 
 16. 
 
 _ 
 
 11.1 
 
 _ 
 
 9.11 
 
 _ 
 
 12.4 
 
 _ 
 
 11. 
 
 — 
 
 9.11 
 
 — 
 
 9.6 
 
 
 46.5 
 
 13j 
 
 53. 
 
 16. 
 
 41.4 
 
 13 
 
 45.10 
 
 131 
 
 46.4 
 
 13.5 
 
 41. 
 
 12. 
 
 35.61 
 
 Hi 
 
 38.5 
 
 12i 
 
 5.11 
 
 
 5.9 
 
 
 6.8 
 
 
 5.4 
 
 
 6.8 
 
 - 
 
 6. 
 
 - 
 
 5.8} 
 
 - 
 
 6.4 
 
 
 29.10 
 
 7J 
 
 33.6 
 
 9.5 
 
 21.0i 
 
 8 
 
 29.7 
 
 ^i 
 
 24.6 
 
 8.5 
 
 21. 
 
 6.5 
 
 n.iii 
 
 6i 
 
 21.4 
 
 71 
 
 10.7 
 
 - 
 
 20. 
 
 7. 
 
 17. 
 
 - 
 
 9.6 
 
 - 
 
 16.6 
 
 - 
 
 14. 
 
 4.6 
 
 15.6 
 
 - 
 
 10.7 
 
 
 106.6 
 
 26| 
 
 105. 
 
 23.5 
 
 96.8 
 
 225 
 
 97.11 
 
 371 
 
 95. 
 
 20. 
 
 86.6 
 
 19. 
 
 81.9 
 
 185 
 
 85.2 
 
 201 
 12i 
 
 96.6 
 96.9 
 
 24g 
 I8i 
 
 90. 
 80. 
 
 21. 
 16. 
 
 84.8 
 70.6 
 
 191 
 
 89.5 
 89.5 
 
 241 
 15J 
 
 84. 
 66. 
 
 18.5 
 14. 
 
 76. 
 65.1 
 
 18. 
 13. 
 
 71.5 
 59. 
 
 16i 
 12i 
 
 74.6 
 58.6 
 
 79.10 
 62.11 
 55.4 
 
 17 
 15i 
 9b 
 
 77. 
 67. 
 49. 
 
 17. 
 15. 
 11.3 
 
 70.6 
 61.6 
 46.1 
 
 141 
 121 
 191 
 
 74.6 
 
 66. 
 
 66. 
 
 151 
 145 
 I3i 
 
 71.6 
 
 62. 
 
 45. 
 
 16. 
 
 14.7 
 
 10. 
 
 65. 
 57. 
 40. 
 
 15. 
 
 13. 
 
 9. 
 
 59. 
 
 53.4 
 
 40.8 
 
 12J 
 Hi 
 
 8i 
 
 61.9 
 54.4 
 47.11 
 
 12i 
 8* 
 
 50. 
 
 44.8 
 38.4 
 
 8i 
 7i 
 6i 
 
 51. 
 45. 
 32. 
 
 10.5 
 9.4 
 
 7. 
 
 45.10 
 
 40. 
 
 32. 
 
 9i 
 
 8i 
 61 
 
 47.9 
 
 42.7 
 
 ; 36.6 
 
 71 
 71 
 6i 
 
 45. 
 41. 
 30. 
 
 9.5 
 
 9. 
 
 6. 
 
 40. 
 38. 
 36. 
 
 8. 
 
 7.5 
 
 5.2 
 
 37.6 
 
 33.11 
 
 28. 
 
 7i 
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 40.5 
 35.4 
 30.10 
 
 71 
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 69.2 
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 53.4 
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 55.4 
 58.6 
 
 371 
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 56.5 
 
 131 
 
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 116.2 
 
 40. 
 
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 53.2 
 
 131 
 
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 13. 
 
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 58.6 
 
 121 
 
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 HOO ^ 
 
 •5 MS 
 «S d 
 ■^ 1SI5! 
 
 1^ a 
 
 .- rt cd 
 
 o 3 
 
 CO ^ 
 
 "rt in 
 
 CO S S Sf 13 
 
 td H CfH C^-l C4-I C4-t 
 g^ 0000 
 
 ^ , CO CO CO CO 
 
 h o c c a 
 
 QJ O) . 
 
 .5 .3 >- 
 
 ■" ■-< '3 's s «i 
 
 ^ "s g S i3 i5 pn-g 
 
 ri 2 ji, Ph p.« Ph o .s 
 pRcdcTjccJctiOeti 
 
 aaooooocM 
 
 _C» 01 gtjH 
 
 ■5 02 0! IS 
 
 i^ 
 
 030 
 
 1 
 
 a § o § 
 
 OJOSS 
 
 1 
 
 la 
 
 Ill 
 
 oo>F 
 
 
316 
 
 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR: 
 
 T3 
 ^ 
 
 S5 
 
 • 
 •\ 
 
 « 
 
 on 
 « 
 
 is- 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 -3 
 
 
 a 
 
 "Si 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 OD 
 
 
 HJ.MOW Had ir J 
 
 " s g ^ 
 
 -J © m « 
 
 
 •As.Et •'^1 psjisinSai sy 
 
 •saiTjSij^ 
 
 •aun -J5 1 
 
 ■Bsnia p6 
 
 ».T3iiooi[as <y m I 
 
 •qi ze '91 |£j 
 
 I I I I -japio iBpsds Xa ' ' ' ' ' ' 
 
 •japio tBTosds Xa 
 
 I I I J 1 
 
 1 1-1 i-H i-t {?» CO lO I 
 
 I I I J I J 
 
 HtM(M(MOOQD IO:>| 
 |g»l 
 
 1 (N (M ft ^ O iCO \0 
 d Ol « 
 
 I at 
 
 ■l9piinodzs](S 
 
 lO to Tji 1 
 
 .2^ 
 A 
 
 ■ssuio p5 
 
 ■saoaag 
 
 B 
 
 Pi 
 
 cij to cd 
 
 < (U t4 
 
 t- W QJ 
 
 S (3 2 
 
 •H d ^ 
 
 = „W 
 
 5J H m 2 n 
 
 CO 9 .b QJ 
 
 .'HI 
 
 i2l 
 
 ■» CC TP .-H rM O lO lO 
 
 H CM CO Tt^ 05 C* CT i«5 
 
 in jo 
 
 »-i c<» CO re< c» c« CM to 
 
 1-H (M -^ Tt< CM (M O 
 
 I— I 
 
 
 „ ^ w m 
 
 ai M *^ • — ' ' 
 
 .Sees 
 S S 2 o ^ 
 
 la .?i is o E 
 
 3 
 
 a 
 
 I 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 317 
 
 ••I4 ijr sT ^ fl-^ S . o j_r »-< 
 
 =^ ^. fl » 2 S^ b. fei s. -5 -S iS ^ 
 
 \s tm 11111 111 ^ 
 
 j^ ri ^ >> a m "3 S'^ „ „ ^ Ki Kj ^ 
 
 Sa oo^'oSh^'*;!-." ~! 
 
 Sr2'3!-,P„as .Sdj^a 
 
 oc an .2 2 ^^-S 
 
318 
 
 517. — ^1 Table of Spars, &c., for 
 
 Names of tlie 
 different Spars. 
 
 Main Mast . - - 
 Main Top-mast - - 
 Main Top-gallant 
 Mast - - - - 
 Main Royal Mast - 
 Main Flag Pole - 
 
 Pore mast . - . 
 Fore Top-mast - - 
 Fore Top-gallant 
 
 Mast - - . . 
 Fore Royal Mast - 
 Fore Flag Pole - - 
 
 Mizen Mast - - - 
 Mizen Top-mast - 
 Mizen Top-gallant 
 Mast - - . . 
 Mizen Royal Mast 
 Mizen Flag Pole - 
 
 Main Yard - - 
 Main Top-sail Yard] 
 Main Top-gallant 
 Yard - . . . 
 Main Royal Yard - 
 
 Fore Yard - . . 
 Pore Top-sail Yard 
 Fore Top-gallant 
 
 Yard - - - . 
 Fore Royal Yard - 
 
 Cross-jack Yard 
 Mizen Top-sail Yard 
 Mizen Top-gallant 
 Yard - - . . 
 Mizen Royal Yard 
 
 Sprit-sail Yard - - 
 
 Bow-sprit - - 
 Jib-boom - - . 
 Plying Jib-boom 
 Pole - . 
 
 Sliips of tlie Ijine. 
 
 THBEE DECKS. 
 
 Fl. In, 
 
 132. 
 
 70. 
 
 35. 
 33.6 
 9.1 
 
 120. 
 63. 
 
 32. 
 
 21.4 
 8.6 
 
 110. 
 55. 
 
 29. 
 19.4 
 7.9 
 
 110. 
 
 52. 
 36. 
 
 Inch 
 
 42.7 
 21.5 
 
 12. 
 
 38.8 
 21.5 
 
 12. 
 
 27.5 
 15.8 
 
 9.8 » 
 
 3.7 
 
 4 
 20.5 
 
 U.8 
 7.2 
 
 100. 24 
 
 75. 18.8 
 
 80. 
 53. 
 
 33. 
 23. 
 
 80. 
 >J0. 
 
 10.9 
 6.6 
 
 16. 
 11.1 
 
 Pl. In. 
 
 22. 
 12. 
 
 20. 
 10.6 
 
 Yard 
 Arm. 
 
 5. 
 
 7. 
 
 3. 
 1.6 
 
 5. 
 6.6 
 
 2. 
 1.6 
 
 7.6 
 4.6 
 
 6.6 1.6 
 4.6 1 
 
 TWO DECKS. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 Fl. In. 
 
 134.6 
 70. 
 
 Inch 
 
 40.2 
 21.5 
 
 35. 12. 
 
 23.6 - 
 
 9.1 4. 
 
 115. 
 63. 
 
 36.8 
 21.5 
 
 33. 12. 
 
 31.4 
 
 8.6 4. 
 
 105. 
 55. 
 
 29. 
 19.4 
 7.9 
 
 107.6 
 
 78. 
 
 52. 
 36. 
 
 96. 
 71. 
 
 46. 
 33. 
 
 80. 
 53. 
 
 33. 
 33. 
 
 78. 
 60. 
 61. 
 - 9. 
 
 36.5 
 15.8 
 
 9.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 25.7 
 19.5 
 
 11.8 
 7.3 
 
 23. 
 
 17.8 
 
 10.7 
 6.6 
 
 16. 
 
 ii.r 
 
 6.6 
 4.6 
 
 Fu In. 
 
 20. 
 
 12. 
 
 2d Cla 
 
 10.6 
 
 Ft. In, 
 
 117. 
 70. 
 
 35. 
 
 JS3.6 
 
 9 
 
 Inch. 
 
 36.8 
 21.5 
 
 12. 
 
 105. 
 63. 
 
 32. 
 
 21.4 
 8.6 
 
 - 39. 
 
 - 19.4 
 
 - 7.9 
 
 Yard 
 Arm. 
 
 5. 
 
 6.6 
 
 2. 
 1.6 
 
 5. 
 6. 
 
 3. 
 1.6 
 
 7.6 
 4.6 
 
 1.6 
 1. 
 
 17.8 
 12. 
 
 105. 
 
 77. 
 
 49. 
 35.1 
 
 90. 
 67. 
 
 45. 
 30.; 
 
 76. 
 49.6 
 
 32. 
 21. 
 
 72. 
 
 54. 
 
 56. 
 
 9. 
 
 34. 
 21.5 
 
 13. 
 
 36. 
 15.3 
 
 9.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 25.3 
 19.3 
 
 11.2 
 
 7 
 
 21.6 
 16.8 
 
 10.5 
 6.1 
 
 15.2 
 10.2 
 
 6.4 
 4.3 
 
 Fl. In, 
 
 30. 
 12. 
 
 18. 
 10.6 
 
 Yard 
 Arm. 
 
 5. 
 6.6 
 
 2. 
 1.6 
 
 4. 
 5.6 
 
 3. 
 1.3 
 
 7.6 
 4. 
 
 1.6 
 .11 
 
 Razees. 
 
 Fl. la. Inch. 
 
 113. 36.8 
 70. 21.5 
 
 35. 
 33.6 
 9.i 
 
 101. 
 63. 
 
 33. 
 21.4 
 8.6 
 
 94. 
 53. 
 
 29. 
 19.4 
 7.9 
 
 105. 
 
 77. 
 
 49. 
 35.1 
 
 90. 
 67. 
 
 45. 
 30.5 
 
 76. 
 49.6 
 
 32. 
 
 21. 
 
 72. 
 
 54. 
 
 56. 
 
 9. 
 
 34. 
 21.5 
 
 13. 
 
 Fl In. 
 
 20. 
 12. 
 
 36. 
 15.3 
 
 9.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 25.3 
 19.2 
 
 11.3 
 7. 
 
 21.6 
 16.8 
 
 10.5 
 6.1 
 
 15.2 
 10.2 
 
 6.4 
 4.3 
 
 18. 
 10.6 
 
 Yard 
 Aim. 
 
 5. 
 6.6 
 
 4. 
 5.6 
 
 U 
 
 7.6 
 4. 
 
 1.6 
 .11 
 
all Classes of Vessels, V. S. N. 
 
 319 
 
 E^rigates. 
 
 Sloops. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 3d Class. 
 
 
 ■S 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Ft 111. 
 
 Inch. 
 
 V05. 34. 
 
 63. 
 
 19.3 
 
 32. 
 
 11. 
 
 21 .f 
 
 - 
 
 8.8 
 
 4. 
 
 s 
 
 Ptrin. 
 
 13. 
 6.9 
 
 95. 
 56. 
 
 29. 
 19.4 
 7.9 
 
 30.8 
 19.3 
 
 11. 
 
 87. 
 46.4 
 
 24.6 
 
 16.4 
 
 6.6 
 
 95. 
 71.6 
 
 44. 
 30. 
 
 4. 
 
 24.8 
 13.3 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 18. 
 9.7 
 
 16. 
 9.6 
 
 12.4 
 6.8 
 
 FUIn. 
 
 95. 
 
 56, 
 
 29. 
 19.4 
 7.9 
 
 Inch. 
 
 30.8 
 17.4 
 
 10. 
 
 3.5 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 16. 
 9.6 
 
 3.6 
 
 22.6 
 
 17.8 
 
 10:2 
 6. 
 
 86. 
 51. 
 
 35.8 
 17.1 
 6.10 
 
 79. 
 41. 
 
 21. 
 
 14. 
 5.7 
 
 27.9 14.6 
 l7.4 8.4 
 
 10. 
 
 84. 20.2 
 62. 15.5 
 
 41. 
 27. 
 
 66. 
 46. 
 
 30. 
 19. 
 
 66. 
 50. 
 
 54. 
 S.8 
 
 Yard 
 Ann. 
 
 4.9 
 6. 
 
 1.6 
 
 4.6 
 5.3 
 
 9.3 
 5.4 
 
 13.2 
 9.5 
 
 6. 
 
 3.8 
 
 14.8 
 10.8 
 
 86.6 
 65. 
 
 40. 
 27. 
 
 76. 
 57. 
 
 2. 38. 
 1.3 35. 
 
 7. 64. 
 4. 41. 
 
 1.6 36. 
 .9 16. 
 
 60. 
 45. 
 45. 
 7.9 
 
 3.5 
 
 21. 
 11.8 
 
 7. 
 
 3.3 
 
 20. 
 15.5 
 
 9. 
 5.4 
 
 17.9 
 13.6 
 
 8.5 
 5, 
 
 12.8 
 8.5 
 
 5.3 
 3.2 
 
 13.5 
 9. 
 
 Varii 
 Arm. 
 
 4.4 
 5.5 
 
 2. 
 1.3 
 
 Fl. In. 
 
 80. 
 
 47. 
 
 24. 
 16. 
 6.5 
 
 72. 
 43. 
 
 23. 
 
 15.4 
 
 6. 
 
 66. 
 37. 
 
 20. 
 13.4 
 5.2 
 
 75. 
 56. 
 
 37. 
 
 25. 
 
 Inch. PI. 111. 
 
 25.8 14. 
 14.8' 7. 
 
 I 
 
 7. 
 4. 
 
 1.4 
 
 .8 
 
 65. 
 49. 
 
 3.5 
 
 23.3 
 14.6 
 
 8.3 
 
 3.5 
 
 18. 
 11. 
 
 6.5 
 
 3.3 
 
 17.5 
 13.4 
 
 8.4 
 5. 
 
 15.2 
 11.5 
 
 7.3 
 4.4 
 
 Pl. In, 
 
 75. 
 45. 
 
 14.8 
 6. 
 
 12. 67.6 
 6.9 42. 
 
 21. 
 14. 
 5.7 
 
 63.9 
 33. 
 
 16. 
 10.8 
 4.3 
 
 Inch 
 
 34.2 
 14.5 
 
 7.5 
 
 3. 
 
 21.8 
 14.5 
 
 16. 
 9.9 
 
 5.3 
 
 53. 
 36.6 
 
 Yard 
 Arm. 
 
 3.9 
 
 10.6 
 7.6 
 
 67.6 
 52:2 
 
 3.3 
 
 4.8 
 
 Fl. In, 
 
 12. 
 6.9 
 
 11. 
 6.4 
 
 2.8 _ 
 
 15.9 
 12.6 
 
 34. 7.6 
 22.9 4.5 
 
 60.9 
 46. 
 
 1.9 30.6 
 .9 20.6 
 
 4.9 
 3.6 
 
 32.6 4.5 
 15. 3. 
 
 50. 
 38. 
 40. 
 6.5 
 
 11.2 
 8. 
 
 51.10 
 34.8 
 
 Ft. In, 
 
 72. 
 
 45. 
 
 22. 
 
 14.8 
 6. 
 
 64.6 
 
 21. 
 14. 
 5.7 
 
 60.9 
 
 16. 
 10.8 
 4.3 
 
 Inch. 
 
 24.2 
 14.5 
 
 7.5 
 
 1.422. 
 .6 14. 
 
 48. 
 
 34.6 
 
 38.9 
 
 6. 
 
 14.1 
 11.1 
 
 6.8 
 4.1 
 
 10.4 
 7.3 
 
 4.4 
 2.8 
 
 10. 
 
 7.8 
 
 Yard 
 Arm. 
 
 4. 
 5. 
 
 3. 
 
 3.8 
 5. 
 
 1.9 
 
 .8 
 
 21, 
 14.5 
 
 16. 
 9.9 
 
 11. 
 6.4 
 
 10. 
 5. 
 
 5.3 
 
 3.8 
 
 67.6 
 53.3 
 
 34. 
 22.9 
 
 60.9 
 46. 
 
 30.6 
 20.6 
 
 Yard 
 Aim. 
 
 15.9 
 12.6 
 
 7.6 
 4.5 
 
 14.1 
 11.1 
 
 6.8 
 4.1 
 
 3.8 
 5. 
 
 1.9 
 
 .8 
 
 4. 51.10 
 3.3 34.8 
 
 1.3 22. 
 ,6 14. 
 
 46. 
 
 34.6 
 
 38.9 
 
 6. 
 
 10.4 
 7.3 
 
 4.4 
 2.8 
 
 4. 
 3.3 
 
 1.3 
 .6 
 
 10. 
 
 7.8 
 
320 
 
 A Table of Spars, &e., for all 
 
 
 SUips of tlie Ijiue. 
 
 
 
 
 Names of the 
 
 THKEE DECKS. 
 
 TWO DECKS. 
 
 Razees. 
 
 
 1st Class. 1 2d Class. 
 
 
 (llfTerent Spars. 
 
 
 
 tM 
 
 
 
 V, 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 S 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 s' 
 
 1 
 
 Si 
 
 
 1 
 
 .1 
 
 u 
 
 bo 
 
 g 
 
 i 
 
 is. 
 
 
 1 
 
 fi 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 
 i-i 
 
 Q 
 
 h1 
 
 a 
 
 s 
 
 >j 
 
 ►J 
 
 'f3 
 
 s 
 
 >J 
 
 "q 
 
 )-] 
 
 
 Ft. In 
 
 inch 
 
 Ft. In 
 
 Fl. In 
 
 Inch 
 
 Ft. In 
 
 Ft. In 
 
 Inch 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Fl. In 
 
 Inr.h 
 
 Ft- In, 
 
 Main Gaff - - - 
 
 33. 
 
 8.2 
 
 _ 
 
 33. 
 
 8.2 
 
 
 30. 
 
 7.4 
 
 
 30. '7.4 
 
 
 M'n Top-mast Stud- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ing-sail Boom - 
 
 55. 
 
 11.5 
 
 - 
 
 53.9 
 
 11. 
 
 „ 
 
 52.6 
 
 11. 
 
 _ 
 
 52.6 
 
 11. 
 
 ^ 
 
 Yard for Main Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . mast Studding- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sail . - - - - 
 
 24. 
 
 4.8 
 
 _ 
 
 24. 
 
 4.8 
 
 _ 
 
 23.6 
 
 4.7 
 
 _ 
 
 23.6 
 
 4.7 
 
 _ 
 
 Main Top-gallant 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Studd'g-sail Boom 
 
 41. 
 
 8.6 
 
 - 
 
 39. 
 
 8.2 
 
 „ 
 
 38. 
 
 6.8 
 
 _ 
 
 38. 
 
 6.8 
 
 _ 
 
 yard for Main Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 gallant Studding- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sail 
 
 24. 
 
 4.8 
 
 ~ 
 
 24. 
 
 4.8 
 
 - 
 
 33.6 
 
 4.7 
 
 - 
 
 23.6 
 
 4.7 
 
 - 
 
 Pore Gaff- - - - 
 
 37. 
 
 9.2 
 
 
 37. 
 
 9.2 
 
 
 36. 
 
 8.8 
 
 
 36. 
 
 8.8 
 
 
 Lower Swinging 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Boom . - - - 
 
 65. 
 
 13. 
 
 _ 
 
 60. 
 
 12. 
 
 
 58. 
 
 11.6 
 
 
 58. 
 
 11.6 
 
 
 Yard for Lower Stud- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ding-sail - - - 
 
 32.6 
 
 6.5 
 
 _ 
 
 30. 
 
 6. 
 
 
 39. 
 
 5.8 
 
 
 29. 
 
 5.8 
 
 
 Pore Top-mast Stud- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ding-sail Boom - 
 
 50. 
 
 10.5 
 
 _ 
 
 48. 
 
 10. 
 
 _ 
 
 45. 
 
 9.4 
 
 
 45. 
 
 9.4 
 
 
 yard for Pore Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 mast Studding- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sail .... 
 
 31. 
 
 6.2 
 
 _ 
 
 29.9 
 
 6. 
 
 _ 
 
 38. 
 
 5.6 
 
 
 28. 
 
 5.6 
 
 
 Fore Top-gall't Stud- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ding-sail Boom - 
 
 37.6 
 
 7.8 
 
 _ 
 
 35. 
 
 7.4 
 
 _ 
 
 33.6 
 
 7. 
 
 
 33.6 
 
 7. 
 
 
 Yard for Pore Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 gallant Studding- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sail 
 
 23. 
 
 4.4 
 
 — 
 
 21. 
 
 4.3 
 
 - 
 
 20.6 
 
 4. 
 
 - 
 
 20.6 
 
 4. 
 
 - 
 
 Spanker Boom - . 
 
 60. 
 
 12.5 
 
 
 60. 
 
 12.5 
 
 
 57. 
 
 11.8 
 
 
 57. 
 
 W.8 
 
 ~ 
 
 Ring-tail Boom - - 
 
 30. 
 
 6. 
 
 _ 
 
 30. 
 
 6. 
 
 _ 
 
 28.6 
 
 5.7 
 
 _ 
 
 286 
 
 5.7 
 
 
 Mizen Gaff . 
 
 38. 
 
 9.4 
 
 5. 
 
 38. 
 
 9.4 
 
 5. 
 
 35. 
 
 8.6 
 
 5. 
 
 35. 
 
 8.6 
 
 5. 
 
 Square-sail Boom . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Yard for Square- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ~ 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 sail - - - 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jack Gaff- - - - 
 Dolphin Striker- - 
 
 17. 
 22. 
 
 6. 
 9. 
 
 3. 
 
 16. 1 
 20. 1 
 
 5.5 
 
 8.5 
 
 3. 
 
 16. 
 30. 
 
 5.5 
 
 8.5 
 
 3 
 
 16. 
 20. 
 
 5.5 
 8.5 
 
 3. 
 
Classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Continued. 
 
 321 
 
 E^rigates. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 Pt. In 
 
 28.6 
 
 s 
 a 
 
 cs 
 
 a 
 
 Inch. 
 
 7.1 
 
 S6 
 
 47.61 9.91 
 
 30. 4. 
 35.9 7.4 
 
 33.6 
 51.3 
 25.6 
 42. 
 
 25.9 
 31 
 
 is.6 
 
 50. 
 25. 
 32. 
 
 14. 
 18. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 Pl. In. 
 
 27. 
 43.3 
 
 Incli. 
 
 6.8 
 9. 
 
 Sloops. 
 
 let Class. 
 
 Pi. In 
 
 18. I 3.6 
 _ 32.6 6.8 
 
 8.3 
 
 10.2 
 
 5. 
 
 8.8 
 
 5.2 
 6.5 
 
 3.7 
 
 10.5 
 5. 
 
 7.8 
 
 4.2 
 7.5 
 
 18. 
 
 33. 
 
 46.3 
 
 23. 
 
 38. 
 
 23.6 
 28.6 
 
 : 17. 
 
 I 
 
 - ; 45. 
 
 - I 22.6 
 4.6 : 30. 
 
 3.6 
 
 8.2 
 9.2 
 4.6 
 
 8. 
 
 4.7 
 6. 
 
 3.4 
 
 9.5 
 4.5 
 
 7.4 
 
 19.5 
 37.6 
 
 -, I- 
 
 14. I 4.3 
 18. I 7.5 
 
 16.6 3.3 
 28. 5.8 
 
 5. 
 
 2d CUss. 
 
 7.8 - 
 
 4.6 
 
 16.6 
 
 26. 
 42. 
 21. 
 32.6 
 
 19.10 
 
 14. 
 
 35. 
 17.6 
 
 3.3 
 
 6.4 
 8.4 
 4.2 
 6.8 
 
 4. 
 5.2 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.7 
 
 7. 
 
 I'l. In. 
 
 17. 
 33.9 
 
 15. 
 26. 
 
 15. 
 
 40.9 
 20.4 
 30.3 
 
 18. 
 23. 
 
 13.6 
 
 34. 
 17. 
 26. 
 
 Iiioh 
 
 4.4 
 
 3. 
 5.4 
 
 3. 
 
 6.2 
 8.2 
 4. 
 6.4 
 
 3.6 
 4.9 
 
 2.7 
 
 7.4 
 3.4 
 6.4 
 
 3d Class. 
 
 I'l. lii. 
 17. 
 
 33.9 
 
 15. 
 26. 
 
 15. 
 
 25. 
 40.9 
 20.4 
 30.3 
 
 18. 
 23. 
 
 13.6 
 
 41 CU 
 
 _ 1 11. , 3.2 - 11. I 3.2 - 
 2. 1 14. , 6.3 1.8 14. I 6.3 lA 
 
 liicli. 
 
 4.4 
 
 C.2 
 
 8.2 
 
 4. 
 
 6.4 
 
 3.6 
 4.9 
 
 2.7 
 
 21 
 
322 
 
 A Table of Spars, &c. — Cbncluded. 
 
 Names ot the 
 different Spars- 
 
 Main Mast . . - 
 Main To])-mast - - 
 Main Top-gallant 
 Mast - - . . 
 Main Royal Mast - 
 Main Flag Pole - 
 Fore Mast - - 
 
 Pore Top-mast - - 
 Fore Top-gaU't Mast 
 Fore Royal Mast 
 Fore Flag Pole - 
 Mizen Flag Pole 
 
 Main Yard - - 
 Main Top-sail Yard 
 Main Top-gal 't Yard 
 Main Royal Yard ■ 
 Fore Yard ... 
 Fore Top-sail Yard 
 Fore Top-gall't Yard 
 Fore Royal Yard - 
 Sprit-sail Yard - - 
 Bow-sprit - - . - 
 Jib-boom ■ - . - 
 Flying Jib-boom - 
 Pole 
 
 Main Gaff - . 
 
 M'n Top-mast Stud- 
 ding-sail Boom 
 
 Yard for Main Top- 
 mast Studding-sail 
 
 Main Top-gallant 
 Studd'g-sail Boom 
 
 Yard for Main Top- 
 gal't Studding-sail 
 
 Pore Gaff- - - 
 
 Lower Swinging 
 Boom - . . _ 
 
 Yard for Lower Stud- 
 ding-feail - . - 
 
 Fore Top-mast Stud 
 ding-sail Boom - 
 
 Ypd for Fore Top- 
 mast Studding-sail 
 
 Pore Top-gall't Stud- 
 ding-sail Boom - 
 
 Yard for Fore Top- 
 gall'nt Studd'g-sail 
 
 Spanker Boom - - 
 
 Square-sail Boom - 
 
 Yard for Square-sail 
 
 Jack Gaf. - - . 
 
 Dolphin "^'■■":er- - 1 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 Kt. In, 
 
 72.2 
 40.6 
 
 20.3 
 13.4 
 
 5.4 
 64.8 
 40.6 
 20.3 
 13.6 
 
 5.4 
 
 Inch. 
 
 22.6 
 12 6 
 
 7.2 
 
 2.5 
 
 22. 
 12.6 
 
 7.2 
 
 2.5 
 
 59.6 
 44.7 
 28.4 
 18.11 
 59.6 
 44.7 
 ,4 
 18.11 
 
 43. 
 
 5 
 34.5 
 5.4 
 
 39.8 
 
 29 
 
 12.10 
 
 22.3 
 
 12.10 
 25. 
 
 31.6 
 
 15.3 
 
 29.9 
 
 18.7 
 
 22.3 
 
 12.10 
 59.6 
 
 14. 
 10.6 
 
 6.5 
 
 3.6 
 14. 
 10.7 
 
 6.5 
 
 4. 
 
 Ft. Ill 
 
 12.2 
 6.9 
 
 11.3 
 6.9 
 
 Yard 
 Arm. 
 
 3. 
 
 3.8 
 1.4 
 
 .9 
 3 
 
 3.8 
 14 
 
 .9 
 
 9.5 
 6.8 _ 
 
 L'Bth 
 Pole. 
 
 Brigautiuesi 
 
 iJ 
 
 PL In 
 
 76. 
 21. 
 
 14. 
 6.6 
 5.4 
 
 55. 
 
 32.6 
 
 18.3 
 
 12. 
 5. 
 
 o 
 
 Inch 
 
 20. 
 6.3 
 
 5.2 
 
 18.7 
 
 10.4 
 
 6.8 
 
 35.6 
 24.6 
 16.3 
 
 45. 
 33.6 
 23 
 14.9 
 
 17.6 
 14. 
 12. 
 3.4| 
 
 25. 
 
 5.5 
 3.2 
 
 10.1 
 
 7.7 
 4.5 
 3. 
 
 Out 
 Out 
 Out 
 
 8.5 
 
 34. 8. 
 32. I 4.6 
 U. I 2.6 
 
 22.6 
 13.9 
 16.9 
 
 9.6 
 
 50. 
 
 4.8 
 
 3. 
 
 3.6 
 
 2. 
 11. 
 
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 8. 
 
 9.2 
 5.6 
 
 Yard 
 Ann. 
 
 2.9 
 
 1.4 
 
 .9 
 
 3.9 
 3. 
 1.6 
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 b'rd, 
 b'rd, 
 b'rd, 
 
 L'gth 
 Pole. 
 
 Schooners. 
 
 Ft. In 
 
 78.8 
 26.2 
 
 13.1 
 
 luch. 
 
 20.3 
 7.5 
 
 6. 3.5 
 75.831.3 
 26.2 7.5 
 13.1 5. 
 
 6. 
 
 50. 
 
 33.4 
 
 22.3 
 
 29.1 
 37. 
 
 25. 
 
 2.5 
 
 11.3 
 
 7.4 
 4.5 
 
 8.5 
 
 Ft. In, 
 
 8. 
 
 35. 
 
 33. 
 
 11. 
 
 25. 
 
 14.2 
 
 16.8 
 
 10.1 
 
 50. 
 
 45. 
 
 33.8 
 9. 
 
 Yard 
 Aim. 
 
 3.6 
 2.6 
 1 
 
 L'Bth 
 Pole. 
 
 5. 
 
 8. 
 4.6 
 3.6 
 5.3| 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.6 
 
 2.3 
 11. 
 9.7 
 5. 
 3. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 (Diameter at the 
 { Truck. 
 
 ( Diameter at the 
 I Truck. 
 \ Diameter at the 
 i Truck 
 
 fPolestotheM'D 
 Gafib of Brigg. 
 Brigantinea aaa 
 Sch'ners are not 
 included in the 
 lengths given. 
 
 Length tor Brigs 
 and Schoonen 
 1 (rov'd by steeve 
 lof BoWBprit 
 
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 323 
 
 A Cordage Table of Feet aud Fathomsi 
 
 Feet. Path. Feet. Path. Feet Path. Feet Fath. Feet Fath. Feet Path. Feet Path. 
 
 30 
 
 35 
 
 40 
 
 45 
 
 50 
 
 55 
 
 60 
 
 65 
 
 70 
 
 75 
 
 80 
 
 85 
 
 90 
 
 95 
 
 100 
 
 105 
 
 110 
 
 115 
 
 120 
 
 125 
 
 130 
 
 135 
 
 140 
 
 145 24 
 1 50,25 
 
 155 
 160 
 165 
 170 
 175 
 180 
 185 
 190 
 195 
 200 
 205 
 210 
 215 
 220 
 225 
 230 
 235 
 240 
 245 
 250 
 255 
 260 
 265 
 270 
 275 
 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 30 
 1 
 a2 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 35 
 36 
 37 
 38' 
 39 
 40 
 40 
 41 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 45 
 
 280 
 285 
 290 
 295 
 300 
 305 
 310 
 315 
 320 
 325 
 330 
 335 
 340 
 345 
 350 
 355 
 360 
 365 
 370 
 375 
 380 
 385 
 390 
 395 
 400 
 
 46 
 47 
 48 
 49 
 50 
 50 
 51 
 52 
 53 
 54 
 55 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 63 
 64 
 65 
 65 
 66 
 
 405 
 410 
 415 
 420 
 425 
 430 
 435 
 440 
 445 
 450 
 455 
 460 
 465 
 470 
 475 
 480 
 485 
 490 
 495 
 500 
 505 
 510 
 515 
 520 
 525 
 
 67 
 68 
 69 
 70 
 70 
 71 
 72 
 73 
 74 
 75 
 75 
 76 
 77 
 78 
 79 
 80 
 80 
 I 
 82 
 83 
 84 
 85 
 85 
 86 
 87 
 
 530 
 535 
 540 
 545 
 550 
 555 
 560 
 565 
 570 
 575 
 580 
 585 
 590 
 595 
 600 
 605 
 610 
 615 
 620 
 625 
 630 
 635 
 640 
 645 
 31650 
 
 89 
 
 90 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 92 
 
 93 
 
 94 
 
 95 
 
 95 
 
 96 
 
 97 
 
 98 
 
 99 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 101 
 
 102 
 
 103 
 
 104 
 
 105 
 
 105 
 
 106 
 
 107 
 
 108 
 
 655 
 660 
 665 
 670 
 675 
 680 
 685 
 690 
 695 
 700 
 70q 
 310 
 715 
 720 
 725 
 730 
 735 
 740 
 745 
 750 
 755 
 760 
 765 
 770 
 775 
 
 109 
 110 
 110 
 111 
 112 
 113 
 114 
 115 
 115 
 116 
 117 
 118 
 119 
 120 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 123 
 124 
 125 
 125 
 126 
 127 
 128 
 129 
 
 780 
 785 
 790 
 795 
 800 
 805 
 810 
 815 
 820 
 825 
 830 
 835 
 840 
 845 
 850 
 855 
 860 
 865 
 870 
 875- 
 880 
 885 
 890 
 895 
 900 
 
 130 
 
 130 
 131 
 132 
 133 
 134 
 
 135 
 
 135 
 
 136 
 
 137 
 
 138 
 
 139 
 
 140 
 
 140 5 
 
 141 
 
 142 
 
 143 
 
 144 
 
 145 
 
 145 5 
 
 146 
 
 147 
 
 148 
 
 149 
 
 5 
 4 
 3 
 2 
 1 
 
 150 
 
 Weight of Cables of IW fathoms from 3 to 25 inches. 
 Three inch cable weighs 252 po.nds; ^i *-M36 P-ds; 4 ««; 4i,^60; 
 
 11760; 21, 12348; 2U, 12936; 22, 13452; 22i, 14168; 23, li^ , 23i, 15456, ^, 
 16128; 25, 17500. 
 
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 Studding-sails - 
 
 Flying-Jibs - - - 
 Standing-Jibs - - 
 Fore Try-sails - - 
 Main Try-sails - - 
 
 Storm Mizen - - - 
 Spankers - - - - 
 Fore Storm Stay-sail 
 Main Storm Stay-sail 
 Miz. Storm Stay-sail 
 Fore Top-mast Stay- 
 sails ----- 
 
334 
 
 THE KEPGE-ANCHOR; 
 
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 Fore Sails . - - 
 Fore Top-sails - - 
 Fore Top-gallant 
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 Fore Royals - - - 
 
 Main Sails - - - 
 Main Top-sails 
 Main Top-gallant 
 Sails- - - . - 
 Main Royals . - - 
 
 Mizen Top-sails 
 Mizen Top-gallant 
 
 Sails 
 
 Mizen Royals - - 
 
 Lower Studding-sails 
 Fore Top-mast Stud- 
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Scnie ol 16 Teet 
 
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 Flying-Jibs . . - 
 Standing-Jibs - . 
 Fore Try-sails - - 
 Main Try-sails - - 
 
 StoimMizen- - - 
 Spankers - . . - 
 Fore Storm Stay-sail 
 Main Storm Stay-sail 
 Miz. Storm Stay-sail 
 Fore Top-mast Stay- 
 sails 
 
 Square Sail ... 
 
 335 
 

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840 523.— A Table showing the Length and Size of Stand* 
 
 Names at Rigging. 
 
 BOWSPRIT GKAR. 
 
 Gammoning (Iron lor 
 
 all classes of vessels 
 Shrouds (pairs) - 
 Collars for Shrouds 
 Lanyards for Shrouds 
 
 (Ibur-stranded) - 
 Bobstays (pairs) 
 Collars for Bobstays 
 Lanyards for Bobstays 
 
 (Ibur-stranded) - 
 Cap Bobstay - - 
 Collar forCap Bobstay 
 Lanyard for Cap Bob- 
 stay (four-stranded) 
 Manropes 
 Bumkin Braces (Iron 
 for all vessels - 
 
 SPRIT-SAIL YARD 
 GEAR. 
 
 Parrel - . . . 
 Tye 
 
 Foot Ropes - - - 
 Lifts - - - - 
 Braces - 
 
 JIB-BOOM GEAR. 
 
 Jib Stay - 
 
 Jib Guys (pairs) - - 
 Jib Fails - . . 
 Foot Ropes - 
 Martingale Stay - - 
 Martingale Backropes 
 
 (pair)- - - - 
 Martmgale Falls - 
 Halliards 
 Downhaul - 
 Sheets - . - 
 Pendants 
 Brails ... 
 
 FLYING JIB-BOOM 
 GEAR. 
 
 Flying-Jib Stay 
 Flying-Jib Guys - - 
 Flying-Jib Falls . - 
 Foot Ropes - . 
 Martingale Stay - . 
 Halliards .... 
 Downhaul . . 
 Sheets- . ... 
 Heel-rope .... 
 
 Ships of the lilne. 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 1st Class. ' 2d Class. 
 
 38 
 
 32 
 36 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 20 
 
 3i 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 16 
 31 
 
 108 
 
 45 
 75 
 40 
 18 
 10 
 
 20 
 16 
 70 
 42 
 80 
 8 
 68 
 
 52 
 52 
 24 
 11 
 24 
 60 
 46 
 52 
 34 
 
 -|- 
 
 34 ] 2 
 
 7 i 2 
 
 32 
 32 
 
 6J 
 
 17 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 106 
 
 32 
 
 7 
 
 32 
 31 
 Si 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 103 
 
 84 
 8h 
 
 4 
 10 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 7 
 
 3i 
 
 4i 
 
 32 
 
 7 
 
 32 
 31 
 
 6i 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 8h 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 28 
 
 103 
 
 4* 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 35 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 Hi 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 Frigates* 
 
 1st Class., 
 
 5 
 21 
 3i 
 
 2i 35 
 
 21 3|t 68 
 
 5i, 6J 
 
 2^1 56 
 
 4^1 43 
 3fi 40 
 2f 20 
 3 j 9 
 4i' 18 
 3 ' 51 
 2J, 36 
 3i 40 
 2i' 30 
 
 VOTE.— The Lmiyords for all Standing Riegine ahould be four-stmnded rope. 
 
ing & Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, II. S. N. 341 
 
 FrlgateS' 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 Sloops. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class, 
 
 2 7i 
 a 7i 
 
 24 
 6 
 
 34 
 
 25 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 14 
 
 2i 
 
 8i 
 ,15 
 
 2 4 
 
 1 5i 
 1 5i 
 
 34 
 64 
 40 
 14 
 
 ^h 
 
 15 
 16 
 55 
 33 
 60 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 2i 1 
 
 1 -25 
 
 2 3i 
 
 2i 52 
 
 28 
 48 
 36 
 12 
 6h 
 
 14 
 14 
 46 
 28 
 56 
 5 
 46 
 
 6 
 
 41 
 2i 
 3i 
 1 6 
 
 10 
 
 3 12 
 
 7il8 
 7i 5 
 
 31 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 12i 
 23J 
 
 28 
 44 
 32 
 10 
 6i 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 44 
 36 
 50 
 5 
 44 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 2i 
 
 32 
 30 
 14 
 7 
 13 
 37 
 30 
 30 
 30 
 
 3 8 
 
 Brlg- 
 antines 
 
 22J 
 
 Sclioon- 
 ers. 
 
 Steamers 
 
 5J 8 
 
 a 2 
 
 3 7 
 
 5 
 5 
 
 33} 
 15i 
 
 27 
 20 
 
 6 
 
 lOj 
 34 
 22 
 34 
 15 
 
 2 a 
 
 ] 6 
 1 6 
 
 3,2i 9 
 15i 4i 
 
 l'3i 
 
 _L 
 
 13{ 
 
 i3 
 
 23| 
 
 2|4i 
 
 13i 
 
 23J 
 
 22i 
 13} 
 
 1 
 
 lUl 
 23 
 
 l|li 
 
 27 
 34 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 33 
 26 
 24 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 14 
 
 1 51 
 
 10 
 22 
 
 72 
 
 37 
 62 
 40 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 16 
 66 
 34 
 60 
 6 
 54 
 
 34 
 20 
 8 
 17 
 46 
 34 
 38 
 26 
 
342 
 
 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 Names of Rigging 
 
 FORE-MAST AND 
 YARD GEAR. 
 
 Pendants (pairs) 
 
 Shrouds (pairs)* - - 
 Lanyards for Shrouds 
 
 (four-stranded) - 
 Stays - - 
 Collars for Stays - 
 Puttock Shrouds - 
 Slings Proper (to go 
 
 over Cap)— Chain 
 
 for all vessels 
 Slings, Preventer 
 Lanyard for Slings - 
 Pendant Tackle Falls 
 Runner - - - 
 Falls for Runner - - 
 Jeer Falls - - - - 
 Jackstays (bending) 
 
 Iron - - . . 
 Jackstays (reefing) - 
 Foot Ropes - - - 
 Stirrups - - - - - 
 Truss Pendants (hide) 
 Palls for Truss Pen 
 
 dants 
 Lifts - - 
 
 Braces - - - 
 Tacks (tapered) - - 
 Sheets (tapered) 
 Clew Garnets - 
 Bowlines 
 
 Reef Pendants - - 
 
 Bunt-lines (pairs) - 
 
 Bunt-line Whips 
 
 Leech-lines 
 
 After Leech-lines 
 
 Slab-lines 
 
 Clew Jiggers 
 
 Lift Jiggers 
 
 Boom Jiggers - - - 
 
 Boom Jiggers (in and 
 
 out) - 
 Bunt Whip - - . 
 Fore Storm Stay Sail 
 
 Stay - . . 
 Halliards - - 
 Downhaul ■ - . . 
 Lower Studding-sail 
 
 Halliards - - - 
 Lower Studding-sail 
 
 Inner Halliards - 
 
 Ships of the I^iue. 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 10 
 
 il24 
 I 134 
 
 200 
 40 
 19 
 30 
 
 11 
 
 21 
 
 lis 
 
 14 
 
 4; 
 
 130 
 
 1 
 18 
 
 fe 
 22 
 
 52 
 90 
 154 
 SO 
 84 
 84 
 64 
 
 11 
 54 
 5i 
 110 
 100 
 22 
 86' 
 36 
 42 
 
 6fi 2 
 23 ] 
 
 15 1 
 
 39 1 
 21 1 
 
 98 2 
 
 60' 2 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 10 
 
 4120 
 n34 
 
 160 
 40 
 18 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 114 
 
 14 
 
 45 
 
 130 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 50 
 
 80 
 
 150 
 
 80 
 
 84 
 80 
 62 
 
 10 
 52 
 48 
 110 
 100 
 22 
 80 
 36 
 40 
 
 60 
 23 
 
 14 
 36 
 
 20 
 
 96 
 54 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 10 
 
 U14 
 hl9 
 
 160 
 38 
 18 
 30 
 
 10 
 21 
 94 
 14 
 39 
 108 
 
 16 
 1 
 6 
 19 
 
 48 
 78 
 154 
 68 
 T2 
 74 
 60 
 
 10 
 48 
 44 
 105 
 84 
 21 
 70 
 36 
 34 
 
 58 
 21 
 
 13 
 34 
 
 18 
 
 84 
 50 
 
 Razees. 
 
 a 3 
 
 10 
 
 5123 
 
 160 
 39 
 18 
 30 
 
 10 
 21 
 98 
 14 
 39 
 112 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 50 
 80 
 156 
 70 
 74 
 78 
 60 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
 46 
 
 108 
 
 881 
 
 ^i 
 
 ^i 
 36; 
 
 36 
 
 60 
 22 
 
 14 
 36 
 18 
 
 FrigateSt 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 88 2 
 52 3 
 
 10 
 
 ; 92 
 116 
 
 153 
 
 46 
 
 25 
 
 9 
 
 21 
 98 
 14 
 42 
 104 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 48 
 78 
 148 
 66 
 68 
 64 
 56 
 
 9 
 40 
 40 
 104 
 80 
 20 
 70 
 30 
 34 
 
 56 
 20 
 
 13 
 33 
 
 18 
 
 93 
 52 
 
 * It w ill be reraembered that the specific lengths given in these Tables an 
 
Ruu'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N,-Con. 343 
 
 Frigates. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. 
 
 2 3 
 2 4i 
 6 21 
 
 Fat. 
 
 J 79 
 
 136 
 44 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 2i 
 
 Sloops. 
 
 54 
 145 
 62 
 64 
 54 
 52 
 
 9 
 
 36 
 36 
 
 88 
 72 
 18 
 62 
 26 
 30 
 
 52 
 18 
 
 11 
 29 
 16 
 
 21 3i 82 
 
 2i 3i| 48 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 lOi 
 
 104 
 
 96 
 
 38 
 
 2i 
 
 4 
 
 25 
 
 Pat. 
 
 42 
 108 
 48 
 50 
 52 
 46 
 
 BrigSi 
 
 102 
 
 90 
 34 
 
 3i 72 
 
 2 3i 
 
 3 3i 
 
 10 2 
 
 11 2 
 4 
 
 38 
 100 
 44 
 46 
 42 
 44 
 
 7i 8 
 
 Brig, 
 antines 
 
 Si 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 Schooiu 
 
 ers. 
 
 li 
 
 72 
 
 32J 
 
 73 
 
 32 
 
 steamers* 
 
 K tS 
 
 19 
 
 23i 
 3i 
 
 P't 
 
 4i 28 
 " 85 
 
 3i 
 
 31 
 
 90 
 
 YardR 
 
 3 3i 
 
 16 10 
 12f 26 
 12 
 
 58 
 
 20 
 
 j92 
 ^95 
 
 136 
 
 28 
 
 9^ 
 18 
 94 
 13 
 36 
 100 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 136 
 80 
 80 
 78 
 58 
 
 9 
 
 48 
 42 
 
 104 
 
 76 
 26 
 
 58 
 20 
 
 14 
 37 
 18 
 
 52 
 
 -uU pattern lengths for each gang of Standing Rigging. 
 
344 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing ana 
 
 Karnes of Rigging. 
 
 PORE-MAST AND 
 YARD GEAR. Con. 
 
 Lower Studding-sail 
 Sheets - . - - 
 
 Lower Studding-sail 
 Outhaul - - . - 
 
 Swinging-boom Top- 
 ping-lifts - - - 
 
 Falls and Lizard for 
 Topping-lifts - 
 
 After Guys - - 
 
 Forward Guys 
 
 Gear Tricing-lines 
 
 FORE TOP-MAST & 
 YARD GEAR. 
 
 Shrouds and Pendants 
 (pairs) - - 
 
 Lanyards for Shrouds 
 and Pendants 
 
 Stays - - 
 
 Breast Backstays(prs) 
 
 Palls for Breast Back- 
 stays - - - - - 
 
 Standing Backstays 
 (pairs) - - - - 
 
 Lanyards for Standing 
 Backstays 
 
 CatHarpen Legs - 
 
 Top-Burtons • 
 
 Runners 
 
 Top Tackle Pendants 
 Top Tackle Falls - 
 Jackstays (bending) 
 
 Iron 
 Foot Ropes - 
 Stirrups - 
 Flemish Horses 
 Parrel - - - 
 
 Top-sail Ties (all 
 
 hide) - ... - 
 Halliards for Top-sail 
 
 Tyes 
 
 Rolling Tackle 
 Lifts - - - 
 Braces - - - - - 
 Stay-sail Halliards - 
 Stay-sail Downhaul - 
 Stay-sail Sheets 
 Sheets - - 
 
 Clew-lines 
 
 Bow-lines ... 
 Bunt-lines - . . 
 Reef Pend'ts (all hide) 
 
 Ships of the Hiine* 
 
 8 DSCKS. 
 
 4i 
 
 33 
 
 58 
 44 
 
 108 
 76 
 
 128 
 44 
 
 123 
 
 84 
 70 
 82 
 
 52 
 
 40 
 4 
 
 176 
 
 53 
 
 160 
 
 15 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 
 38 
 
 120 
 18 
 35 
 
 118 
 68 
 40 
 60 
 82 
 96 
 72 
 71 
 15 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class, 
 
 32 
 56 
 40 
 
 104 
 
 70 
 
 120 
 
 42 
 
 123 
 
 84 
 65 
 80 
 
 52 
 
 86 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 170 
 
 8 
 
 52 
 150 
 
 15 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 
 36 
 
 116 
 18 
 34 
 
 116 
 68 
 40 
 60 
 80 
 95 
 70 
 70 
 14 
 
 30 
 50 
 38 
 
 100 
 66 
 
 108 
 42 
 
 123 
 
 84 
 64 
 
 78 
 
 52 
 
 84 
 
 40 
 4 
 
 158 
 
 8 
 
 45 
 130 
 
 12 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 
 36 
 
 98 
 18 
 34 
 113 
 68 
 40 
 60 
 71 
 88 
 64 
 65 
 14 
 
 Razees. 
 
 30 
 50 
 40 
 
 100 
 66 
 
 108 
 42 
 
 S^rigatesi 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 3i 30 
 3J 52 
 
 4J 
 
 3 
 
 3i 
 3J 
 
 2i 
 
 r?" 
 
 
 
 8-t 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 65 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 81 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 52 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 86 
 
 2 
 
 9i 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 4f 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 4^ 
 
 162 
 
 2 
 
 3^ 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 47 
 
 2 
 
 8J 
 
 135 
 
 2 
 
 a 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 3f 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 2^ 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 6i 
 
 36 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 106 
 
 2 
 
 3f 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 113 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 70 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 72 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 3* 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 3* 
 
 67 2 
 
 3* 
 
 14 
 
 : 2 
 
 4i 
 
Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, II. S. N.-Con. 345 
 
 fHtt^te^WJI 
 
 Sloops > 
 
 Brig- Schoon- 
 
 
 1! 
 
 . 1 Briss. 
 
 Steamera* 
 
 2d:dass. 1st Class. 3d Class. 3d Class. 
 
 ailtlnes erg. 
 
 ik 
 
 
 JS ,C J3 •£ 
 
 =• 1 - 1 d 1 1 =>• .i 1 = i 1 
 
 ! m J K iS S IS m J ZtQ ^ 
 
 1 1 J 1 1 s 1 1 3 
 
 2 
 
 j ■ 
 
 3 38 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 3 26 2 2| 26 22? 24 22J 18 22i 18 2 3U2 2 3 30 
 
 2 
 
 I 1 
 
 ,3i;:. 48 
 
 2 3i 34 2 3 32 23 31 32| 30 22f 30 2 2|36 2 3i 46 
 
 2 
 
 4i 36 
 
 3 4 32 2 3i 30 23j 30 33i 28 33i 26 2 3^36 3 4i 43 
 
 2 
 
 2| 90 
 
 2 2i 76 2 2} 74 33i 73 33 f 
 
 58 22 66 2 2} 30 2 3} 90 
 
 2 
 
 3i 54 
 3i 94 
 
 3 3 50 2 2| 44 22j 42 22^ ^ 
 
 to 32} 38 2 3 30 2 3} 64 
 
 2 
 
 2 3 78 2 21 72 32i 70 22^ ( 
 
 54 22} 63 3 3 36 3 3} 100 
 
 2 
 
 2i 36 
 
 2 2} 30 3 2 28 22 37 3 If S 
 
 36 2 li 26 - - 2 2} 43 
 
 5 
 
 5i 82 
 
 4 4i 58 4 4i 57 34} 45 34 
 
 39 34 39 2 3J24 5 5} 106 
 
 to 
 
 2f 70 
 
 8i 54 
 
 8 2} 56 8 2} 56 62} 43 -- 
 
 _ __ _ - _ _ 10 2J 70 
 
 2 
 
 2 7i 45 2 7 44 27 43 35} 
 
 42 25} 42 1 4}24 2 8} 64 
 
 2 
 
 7 64 
 
 17 28 1 6} 37 16 26 15} 
 
 25 15} 23 - - - 3 7 80 
 
 4 
 
 3i 52 
 
 2 3} 24 2 3 22 23 21 22| 
 
 16 221 16 - - -j 4 3} 52 
 
 2 
 
 9 68 
 
 2 8 60 2 7} 58 27} 56 16} 
 
 28 16} 36 1 4}28 3 9 84 
 
 4 
 2 
 
 a 40 
 
 4 3 
 
 4 4 36 4 31 36 43f 36 -- 
 2 3} 3 2 3} 3 33} 3 33 
 
 _ __ - _ - _ 4 4} 40 
 3 33 32 2} 224 3 
 
 5 
 
 3i 134 
 
 4 7 
 
 2 3 112 2 3 104 221100 23} 
 
 98 22} 90 - - - 3 3} 160 
 6 33} 5 - - - 3 4 7 
 
 2 
 
 2l 3J 6;! 2 31 6 23J 6 23} 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 _ Lgm'str'p ^ _ ,. 
 
 2 
 
 8 40 
 
 2 6} 35 2 6} 32 16} 18 15 
 
 18 15 16 1 4 34 2 8 46 
 ___ -24 134 
 
 2 
 
 4 116 
 
 ~ ", ~ "l ~ 
 
 
 2 
 € 
 2 
 1 
 
 3i 11 
 
 2i 6 
 3 5 
 6i 4i 
 
 2 3} 9 3 3} 9 23 9 22f 
 4 2} 4 4 2 4 42 4 43 
 2 2}! 4 2 2} 4 22} 4 32 
 1 6;4} 1 5}; 4 15} 4 15 
 
 8 23f 8 2 2} 8 2 3} 12 
 4 42 4 2 2 4 6 2} 6 
 4 33 433333 5 
 4 15 4 1 3} 3 1 6} 5 
 
 S 
 
 6J 30 
 
 2I 6 ■ 23 2 5}| 22 85} 22 l',5} 
 
 9 15} 8 1 4} 7 2 6} 41 
 
 
 ! 3i 90 
 
 31 15 
 
 J 5i. 39 
 
 1 3i 94 
 L 3f 65 
 L 2i 36 
 J 21 56 
 3 5J 64 
 313} 74 
 
 2 3i 50 
 2 3i 54 
 2 4i 11 
 
 2 3}' 82 2 3} 70 33 68 13 
 
 1 2}' 14 1 2} 13 12} 12 12 
 
 2 5 ' 26 2 5 35 35 34 2,4} 
 2 3i 78 2 3} 74 23 72 2,21 
 ? It ll 1 4 60 12} 56 12} 
 
 1 2 34 1 2 33 12 32 12 
 
 2 2} 52 2 3} 50 22} 50 22} 
 2 5! 54 2 5 48 25 46 34 
 
 I 3 62 3 3 60 221 59 22} 
 Is 48 2 3 44 23f 42 32} 
 9 3 50 2 3 46 321 45 32} 
 
 II 10 2 4 10 23i 10 2)3} 
 
 30 13 30 1 25 41 2 3} IOC 
 12 12 12 1 2 5 1 21 U 
 21 24} 31 2 4 20 2 5} 3E 
 60 221 64 2 2}64 3 3} 12j 
 48 12}' 48 - - - 1 21 6( 
 30 111 30 - - - 1 3 3; 
 48 22} 48 - - - 3 2} 5( 
 46 34 46 3 3|46 3 5f 7 
 58 23} 56 3 3}56 3 3} 8( 
 40 32} 40 3 2 52 2 3} 6 
 43 22} 42 2 2}44 3 3} 6 
 7 33} 7 3 3 7 3 4} 1 
 
'M6 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 
 Ships of the I<liie. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Frigates. 
 
 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 
 Razees. 
 
 
 
 3 D£ 
 
 
 
 
 
 1st Class 
 
 Names of Rigging. 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 
 ±3L \-/LCLaSt, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 i 
 
 p 
 
 d 
 
 J5 
 
 Si " 
 
 d 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 a 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 _S 
 
 CD 
 
 J 
 
 _£ 
 
 m 
 
 ►5 
 
 _a 
 
 m 
 
 iJ 
 
 _fc 
 
 — 
 
 
 _Z 
 
 
 J 
 
 FORE TOP-MAST & 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 YARD GEAR. Con. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Whips for Reef Pen- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 dants 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 79 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 78 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 66 
 
 Clew Jiggers 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 102 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 92 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 94 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 86 
 
 Lift Jiggers 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 24 
 
 Bunt-runner - 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 Jigger for Bunt-runner 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 2} 
 
 25 
 
 Boom Tricing-lines - 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 26 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 26 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 26 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 23 
 
 Studding-s'l Halliards 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 104 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 iOO 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 96 
 
 3 
 
 3| 
 
 100 
 
 2 
 
 31 
 
 92 
 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 94 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 86 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 80 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 84 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 84 
 
 Studding-sail Sheets 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 56 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 45 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 47 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 46 
 
 Studding-sail Down- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hauls - - - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 68 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 60 
 
 3 
 
 21 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 60 
 
 Studding-sail Boom 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Brace 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 60 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 50 
 
 Studding-sail Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ping-lifts - 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 35 
 
 FORE TOP-GAL'NT 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 M'ST& YARD GEAR 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds (pairs') 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 66 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 63 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 63 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 56 
 
 Stay ----- . 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 46 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 45 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 41 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 44 
 
 39 
 
 Breast Backstays(prs) 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 52 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 51 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 49 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
 1 
 
 44 
 
 46 
 
 Falls for Breast Back- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 stays - . - - 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 21 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 Standing Backstays 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (pairsj - - - 
 Long Yard, or Mast 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 56 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 54 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 51 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 53 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 48 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rope - - 
 
 1 
 
 6i 
 
 58 
 
 1 
 
 64 
 
 58 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 52 
 
 1 
 
 5f 
 
 54 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 49 
 
 Short Mast Rope - - 
 
 1 
 
 5J 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 5j 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 lOi 
 
 Jackstays (Iron) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Foot Ropes - - . - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 84 
 
 3 
 
 m 
 
 84 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 Stirrups - 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Parrel 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 34 
 
 3 
 
 Lifts - - 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 52 
 
 3 
 
 3J 
 
 50 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 44 
 
 Braces - 
 
 2 
 
 2| 
 
 128 
 
 3 
 
 2f 
 
 120 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 116 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 118 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 lis 
 
 Halliards . - - - 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 57 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 56 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 53 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 53 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 48 
 
 Sheets - - 
 
 2 
 
 44 
 
 66 
 
 2 
 
 44 
 
 65 
 
 3 
 
 a 
 
 60 
 
 3 
 
 4} 
 
 62 
 
 3 
 
 3i 
 
 56 
 
 Clew-lines 
 
 2 
 
 n 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 84 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 81 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 83 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 78 
 
 Bow-lines - - - . 
 
 2 
 
 Si 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 3« 
 
 94 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 88 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 84 
 
 Bunt-lines 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 40 
 
 Lift Jiggers 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 Bunt Jiggers - - 
 
 1 
 
 2| 
 
 32 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 18 
 
 Tripping-line - - - 
 Studding-sail Hall'rds 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 29 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 34 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 94 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 84 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 86 
 
 
 31 
 
 84 
 
 Studding-sail Sheets 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 32 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 28 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 
 2 
 
 2} 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 54 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 54 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 54 
 
 F'RE ROYAL MAST 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AND YARD GEAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds (pair) - - 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 37 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 37 
 
 1 
 
 34 
 
 33 
 
 Falls for Shrouds 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 Btay - - . . 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 58 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 57 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 52 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 53 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 46 
 
Ran'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Cbn. 347 
 
 Frigatesi 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 
 
 JS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 CQ 
 
 1-1 
 
 Sloops > 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. 
 
 3 4 
 
 8 
 2 
 3 
 
 42 
 102 
 45 
 50 
 74 
 74 
 36 
 20 
 17 
 22 
 74 
 22 
 46 
 
 2 3 
 3i 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 36 
 80 
 35 
 46 
 60 
 62 
 17 
 16 
 16 
 20 
 62 
 20 
 38 
 
 1 3 
 
 2 U 
 1 21 
 
 2 3 
 3i 
 
 2 3i 
 1 3i 
 
 3i 
 
 23 40 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 3i 
 
 4i 36 
 3i 8 
 
 34 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2J 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 3 
 
 U 
 
 li 
 
 2 
 
 li 
 I 
 2 2i 
 
 a 2i 
 
 2 2 
 
 30 
 
 Brig- 
 autines 
 
 Sclioou- 
 ers. 
 
 2 
 
 li 
 
 22i 
 
 3i 24 
 U 
 2*1 33 
 
 IHO 
 
 22? 36 
 
 2f 26 
 29 
 
 li 
 
 14 
 
 13J 30 
 
 2il5 
 2i28 
 
 76 
 94 
 24 
 10 
 32 
 30 
 98 
 98 
 44 
 
 58 
 
 60 
 
 3i 40 
 
 2 3i 
 1 4 
 1 4 
 
 68 
 40 
 53 
 
 20 
 
 ^54 
 
 55 
 13 
 
 8 
 3 
 3 
 45 
 133 
 54 
 60 
 80 
 84 
 46 
 20 
 22 
 26 
 92 
 28 
 46 
 
348 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 Names of Rigging 
 
 P'RE ROYAL MAST 
 &YARD GEAR. Con. 
 
 Backstays (pair) - - 
 Yardrope - ■ 
 Jackstays (Iron) 
 Foot Ropes - - . - 
 Parrel . - - 
 
 Lifts 
 
 Braces - - - 
 
 HaJliaids 
 
 Sheets - - 
 
 Clew-lines 
 
 Bow-lines ... 
 
 Bimt-line 
 
 Tripping-line - 
 
 FORE TRY-SAIL 
 M'ST&GAFFG'AR. 
 
 Peak Halliards 
 Throat Halliards 
 Vangs - - - 
 Peak Brails (pairs of) 
 
 Throat Brails (p'rs of) 
 
 Middle Brails (p'rs ot) 
 Foot Brails (pairs of) 
 Sheets . . - 
 
 MAIN-MAST AND 
 YARD GEAR. 
 
 Pendants (pairs) - - 
 
 Sliips of the I<iiie« 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 Shrouds (pairs) 
 
 Lanyards for Shrouds 
 Stays - - . . 
 Fut'tock Shrouds - - 
 Slings Proper (to go 
 
 over Cap)— Chain 
 
 for all vessels - - 
 Slings, Preventer 
 Lanyard for Slings 
 
 (four-stranded)- - 
 Pendant Tackle Palls* 
 Runner - 
 
 Falls for Runner - - 
 Jeer Falls - - - 
 Jackstays (bending) 
 
 Iron - - . _ 
 Jackstays (reefing) - 
 Foot Ropes - - - 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 
 
 m 
 
 15 
 6i 
 
 62 
 62 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 58 
 
 104 
 37 
 44 
 48 
 
 114 
 27 
 30 
 
 63 
 45 
 68 
 
 44 
 
 38 
 44 
 91 
 
 12 
 
 22 
 
 120 
 
 24 
 
 59 
 
 140 
 
 3i 18 
 5i 20 
 
 lOi 
 
 m 
 
 5i 
 15 
 
 6i 
 
 60 
 60 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 56 
 
 106 
 33 
 40 
 46 
 
 110 
 25 
 30 
 
 10. 
 
 ,142 
 
 il47 
 
 200 
 54 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 114 
 
 23 
 
 59 
 
 136 
 
 Razees. 
 
 4 57 
 
 3i 58 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 2 
 52 
 86 
 32 
 40 
 46 
 101 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 5127 
 ?133 
 
 170 
 50 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 108 
 
 22 
 
 59 
 
 130 
 
 £^rigateSa 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 60 
 60 
 
 7 
 2 
 52 
 86 
 33 
 40 
 46 
 103 
 24 
 29 
 
 10 
 
 a35 
 J141 
 
 170 
 51 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 112 
 
 22 
 
 59 
 
 134 
 
 6t N 
 
 3i 18 
 19 
 
 54 
 
 54 
 
 3J 
 Si 
 
 2i 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 1 24 
 
 1 2i 
 
 2 3i 
 
 2 3i 
 
 2 41 
 
 48 
 78 
 30 
 38 
 43 
 100 
 22 
 26 
 
 58 
 38 
 56 
 
 74 
 
 38 
 
 33 
 34 
 
 78 
 
 10 
 
 5123 
 ^132 
 
 170 
 51 
 25 
 
 9} 
 
 20 
 
 104 
 
 18 
 
 44 
 
 110 
 
 ■ • AH small vessels which are not allowed Jeers and Top Tackle Tails, the Pendant Tackle FaBs 
 
Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, 11. Si ^,-Chn. 349 
 
 Frigatesi 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 i\i 
 
 24 
 U 
 '2i 
 3i 
 1? 
 S^ 2i 
 2 2 
 2 11 
 2 
 li 
 
 Sloops* 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class, 
 
 21 2i 
 2 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 3i 
 
 li 
 
 ^ 3i 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 4i 
 
 12J 
 
 5i 
 
 I 86 
 ^113 
 
 153 
 
 44 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 4f 
 2^ 31 
 7 
 3i 
 5 
 
 14 
 15J 
 
 4 
 
 lOi 
 Iron 
 
 140 
 
 112 
 40 
 
 7i 
 
 3i 
 10 
 
 Iron 
 
 129 
 
 112 
 36 
 
 3 
 
 ■2i 
 
 2 
 
 114 
 
 30 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 2? 
 
 74 
 
 24 36 
 
 3436 
 
 44 
 
 11 
 13 
 
 108 
 
 96 
 34 
 
 Brlg- 
 autlnes 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 32 
 
 48 
 
 36 
 29 
 66 
 
 19 
 
 2 6 
 
 Sclioon' 
 ers. 
 
 34 
 34 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 33 
 46 
 
 26 
 29 
 60 
 
 l8 
 
 34 
 
 234 
 
 37 
 25 
 40 
 1428 
 
 Steamers* 
 
 1 
 1 
 3 
 2_ 
 
 pen, 
 
 1 
 
 w'ip 
 
 16 4 
 
 23 
 
 90 
 
 3t 
 
 55 
 40 
 
 58 
 14 80 
 
 34 
 
 21 
 
 24 
 
 24|36 
 
 4il54 
 
 90 
 
 2i 
 34 
 34 
 
 34 
 
 10 
 
 4i 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 3i 
 
 5 
 
 55 
 43 
 60 
 76 
 
 38 
 
 34 
 36 
 
 78 
 
 c 90 
 
 J120 
 
 153 
 58 
 30 
 
 18 
 94 
 20 
 64 
 100 
 
 13 
 
 4i' 14 
 
 may be increased in size one-fomtli in 
 
 addition to the spedfied size in the foregoing TaUe. 
 
350 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 
 Sblps of the L. 
 
 ine. 
 
 
 
 
 Frigates. 
 
 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 Razees. 
 
 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 
 
 
 1st Class 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 
 J.L71' ^ta^i^blvU* 
 
 Names of Rigging- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 
 d 
 
 i 
 
 
 d 
 
 S 
 
 ^ 
 M 
 
 d 
 
 S 
 
 t 
 
 d 
 
 S 
 
 
 C 
 
 .i 
 
 1 
 
 
 _Z 
 
 CQ 
 
 J 
 
 _£ 
 
 m 
 
 h1 
 
 » 
 
 tfl 
 
 i-i 
 
 % 
 
 _M_ 
 
 ij 
 
 _a 
 
 QQ 
 
 )-3 
 
 MAIN-MAST AND 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 YARD GEAR. Con. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stirrups - - - - 
 
 8 
 
 3i 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 3i 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 Truss Pendants (hide) 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 61 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 18 
 
 Falls for Truss Pen- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 dants - - 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 Lifts 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 102 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 86 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 80 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 82 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 78 
 
 Braces - - - 
 
 2 
 
 ii 
 
 180 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 180 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 180 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 180 
 
 2 
 
 41 
 
 168 
 
 Tacks (.tapered) - - 
 
 3 
 
 6i 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 82 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 70 
 
 2 
 
 61 
 
 72 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 70 
 
 Sheets (tapered) 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 94 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 86 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 76 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 74 
 
 Clew Garnets - - - 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 84 
 
 2 
 
 3{ 
 
 80 
 
 2 
 
 3f 
 
 84 
 
 2 
 
 31 
 
 74 
 
 Runner (for Main 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Bow-line) 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 4^ 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 4i 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 41 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Whip for Runner - 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 Reef Pendants - - 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 4J 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 10 
 
 Bunt-lines (pairs) - 
 Bunt-line Whips 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 68 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 68 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 72 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 62 
 
 Leech-lines 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 128 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 116 
 
 4 
 
 2J 
 
 112 
 
 4 
 
 2J 
 
 116 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 108 
 
 After Leech-lines 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 108 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 106 
 
 4 
 
 2J 
 
 98 
 
 4 
 
 2J 
 
 100 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 84 
 
 Slab-line 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 Clew Jiggers 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 98 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 92 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 80 
 
 Lift Jiggers - 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 36 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 36 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 36 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 36 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 Boom Jiggers - 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 2} 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 42 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 40 
 
 Boom Jiggers (in and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 out) - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 66 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 60 
 
 Bunt Whip - 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 28 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 22 
 
 MAIN TOP-MAST & 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 YARD GEAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds and Pendants 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lanyards for Pen- 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 135 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 130 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 131 
 
 6 
 
 61 
 
 131 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 dants - - 
 
 112 
 
 3i 
 
 96 
 
 12 
 
 3i 
 
 84 
 
 12 
 
 3i 
 
 84 
 
 12 
 
 3i 
 
 84 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 
 Stays - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 9i 
 
 69 
 
 2 
 
 9i 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 9J 
 
 62 
 
 3 
 
 91 
 
 63 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 61 
 
 Breast Backstays(prs) 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 92 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 7J 
 
 86 
 
 2 
 
 71 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 80 
 
 Falls for Breast Back- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 stays - - - - - 
 
 4 
 
 3f 
 
 52 
 
 4 
 
 31 
 
 52 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 52 
 
 4 
 
 31 
 
 52 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 53 
 
 Standing Backstays 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (pairs3 ■ - - 
 Lanyards for Standing 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 92 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 94 
 
 2 
 
 91 
 
 86 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Backstays - - 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 4? 
 
 40 
 
 Cat-Harpen Legs - 
 
 2 
 
 4J 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 4J 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 41 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 4 
 
 Top-Burtons ■ - - 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 192 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 180 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 174 
 
 2 
 
 31178 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 163 
 
 Runners - - 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 4i 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 41 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 Top Tackle Pendants 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 55 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 47 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 50 
 
 3 
 
 81 
 
 48 
 
 Top Tackle Falls - 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 170 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 160 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 145 
 
 2 
 
 4J 
 
 150 
 
 2 
 
 41 
 
 143 
 
 Jackstays (Iron) - - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Foot Ropes - - 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 3f 
 
 14 
 
 Stirrups - - . - . 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 2| 
 
 6 
 
 Flemish Horses 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 Parrel 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 6} 
 
 5 
 
 Top-sail Ties (all 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ; " 
 
 
 
 
 hide) - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 42 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 6i 
 
 36 
 
Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Cbn. 351 
 
 Frigfatesi 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 21 
 Pat 
 
 Pat. 
 5i 
 
 4 
 5i 
 5J 
 3i 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 3 
 
 2i 4 
 
 2 2i 
 2 2i 
 4l " 
 4 
 1 
 
 58 
 150 
 58 
 62 
 64 
 
 6 
 14 
 
 9i 
 52 
 58 
 96 
 80 
 20 
 72 
 30 
 33 
 
 56 
 18 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. 
 
 Sloops* 
 
 4i 
 4 
 3J 
 4 
 
 8 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 6i 
 
 3l 61 
 
 88 
 
 70 
 53 
 
 72 
 
 52 
 
 76 
 
 40 
 3i 
 146 
 
 7 
 
 41 
 122 
 
 13 
 6 
 5 
 4i 
 
 32 
 
 48 
 100 
 50 
 54 
 58 
 
 6 
 14 
 
 9 
 46 
 50 
 
 2i 50 
 3 16 
 
 4i 
 
 46 
 100 
 44 
 46 
 52 
 
 5 
 13 
 
 9 
 44 
 48 
 80 
 64 
 16 
 56 
 23 
 27 
 
 44 
 15 
 
 62 
 
 56 
 39 
 31 
 
 24 
 
 67 
 
 36 
 3 
 
 128 
 6 
 
 38 
 11 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 34 
 
 1i[ 63 
 
 3i! 36 
 3i 3 
 
 21 112 
 
 3|j 6 
 
 6ij 30 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 45 
 324 
 16 
 
 m 23 
 
 42i 4 
 P't 
 
 4i 
 3 
 4 
 24 
 
 2 24 
 
 Brig- 
 autines 
 
 ScKoon- 
 
 ers. 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 104 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 154 
 
 Lg 
 
 24 
 
 14 
 
 34 
 
 28 
 
 22J 
 3 
 
 
 2 4 
 
 P't _ 
 
 rope 
 34 
 
 7 
 2 
 4 
 4 ^ 3 
 
 SteamerAs 
 
 25 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 3 30 
 
 224 
 
 15 ' 8 
 
 331 
 2,3 
 33 
 
 144 
 
 3J 
 Pat. 
 
 2 241 
 1 2 
 
 3 8 
 2 4 
 
 3 
 6 
 3 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 64 
 
 64 41 
 
352 i Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 Sfames at Rlgging< 
 
 MAIN T0P-MAS1' Cc 
 YARD GEAR. Con. 
 
 Halliards for Top-sail 
 Tyes 
 
 Rolling Tackle 
 Lifts - - - 
 Braces 
 Sheets 
 
 Clew-lines - 
 Bow-lines - - 
 Btmt-lines - - 
 ReefPend'ts (all hide) 
 Whips for Reef Pen- 
 dants - - . - 
 Clew Jiggers - - 
 Lift Jiggers - 
 Bunt-runner 
 Jigger for Bunt-runner 
 Boom Tricing-lines 
 Studding-s'l Halliards 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 Studding-sail Sheets 
 Studding-sail Down- 
 hauls - . - - 
 
 MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 
 M'ST& YARD GEAR 
 
 1 
 Shrouds (pairs) - - 
 
 Stay .--...[ 
 
 Breast Backstays (pr.) 
 Falls for Breast Back-, 
 
 stays . - - 
 Standing Backstays 
 
 l.*ng Yard, or Mast 
 Rope - - 
 
 Short Mast Rope - - 
 
 Jackstays (Iron) 
 
 Foot Ropes - - 
 
 Stirrups - - . 
 
 Parrel - - - - - 
 
 Lifts 
 
 Braces - - - - 
 
 Halliards - - 
 
 Strfets ... 
 
 Clew-lines - - . . 
 
 Bow.lines - . 
 
 Bant-lines - - - - 
 
 Lift Jiggers 
 
 Bunt Jigger - 
 
 Tripping-line . - - 
 
 Studding-sail Hal- 
 liards . ... 
 
 Ships of tile liine* 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 2 4 134 
 
 2 5 
 
 I 5 
 
 1,5 
 
 •i 211 
 
 II 6 I 
 
 1 6* 
 1 6 
 
 2 3i 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 20 
 38 
 
 120 
 88 
 
 106 
 78 
 82 
 16 
 
 88 
 
 108 
 
 24 
 
 11 
 
 38 
 
 32 
 
 114 
 
 112 
 
 60 
 
 74 
 
 73 
 29 
 
 58 
 
 2 4 
 
 24 I 2 
 61 
 
 64 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 58 
 
 118 
 
 61 
 
 70 
 
 98 
 
 88 
 
 50 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 31 
 
 130 
 
 20 
 36 
 
 120 
 82 
 
 104 
 76 
 74 
 15 
 
 80 
 
 104 
 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 35 
 
 28 
 
 108 
 
 104 
 
 50 
 
 68 
 
 6i 61 
 
 5J 14 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 104 2 3i 98 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 116 
 
 60 
 
 68 
 
 90 
 
 85 
 
 50 
 
 24 
 
 22 
 
 30 
 
 120 
 
 20 
 34 
 
 120 
 79 
 99 
 70 
 72 
 15 
 
 78 
 100 
 24 
 10 
 35 
 28 
 104 
 98 
 50 
 
 67 
 
 2 3i 97 
 
 67 
 26 
 55 
 
 20 
 
 57 
 
 58 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 104 
 
 59 
 
 66 
 
 88 
 
 82 
 
 46 
 
 24 
 
 22 
 
 27 
 
 Razees. 
 
 Frifi^ates* 
 
 1 5J 
 
 1 5i 
 
 124 
 
 20 
 34 
 
 122 
 81 
 
 102 
 70 
 74 
 15 
 
 80 
 
 104 
 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 35 
 
 38 
 
 108 
 
 102 
 
 50 
 
 68 
 
 59 
 
 60 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 106 
 
 60 
 
 68 
 
 90 
 
 83 
 
 46 
 
 24 
 
 22 
 
 28 
 
 2 3} 98 
 
 1st Cass. 
 
 !^i m 
 
 122 
 
 18 
 31 
 100 
 78 
 90 
 64 
 68 
 13 
 
 76 
 
 96 
 
 24 
 
 9 
 
 28 
 24 
 98 
 94 
 48 
 
 64 
 
 60 
 24 
 
 4i 50 
 
 3l 2i 
 
 20 
 
 5} 53 
 
 «'53 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 100 
 
 56 
 
 64 
 
 84 
 
 78 
 
 42 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 26 
 
 93 
 
Rnn'g- Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. Si N.-Coji. 353 
 
 8 2i 80 
 
 2 2i 70 sl 2i 64 m 60, 324 58, -I- , 
 
 21 31 93 
 
 23 
 
354 i Table showing- the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 
 SKips of the Iiiiie. 
 
 
 
 
 Frig 
 
 ates* 
 
 
 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 Razees. 
 
 
 
 3 DE "^ ■"" 'O 
 
 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 
 Karnes of Rigging. 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 , . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 J 
 
 m 
 
 ho 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 i 
 
 J 
 
 z, S 
 
 1 
 
 MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 M.&Y'DGEAR. Con 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Studding-sail Sheets 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 33 
 
 2 3i 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 28 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 
 2' 
 
 3 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 60 
 
 MAIN ROYAL M'ST 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 & YARD GEAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds (pair) 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 36 
 
 Palls for Shrouds - 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 Stay 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 31 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 34 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 Backstays (pair) - - 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 69 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 68 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 65 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 67 
 
 1 
 
 33 
 
 60 
 
 Yardrope - • 
 
 1 
 
 3} 
 
 71 
 
 1 
 
 31 
 
 70 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 64 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 66 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 62 
 
 Jackstays (Iron) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Foot Ropes - . - - 
 
 2 
 
 2| 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 2* 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 6 
 
 Parrel 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 2 
 
 Lifts - - , - - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 54 
 
 Braces • 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 72 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 70 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 56 
 
 Halliards - - 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 43 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 37 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 35 
 
 Sheets - - - 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 46 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 42 
 
 Clew-lines - - . . 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 48 
 
 Bow-lines - - - 
 
 2 
 
 2} 
 
 72 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 60 
 
 Bunt-lines 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 28 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 'Tripping-line - - - 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 31 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 32 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 29 
 
 Main-boom Topping- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 lifts - - . - - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
 Palls for Main-boom 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Topping-lifts 
 
 - 
 
 ~ 
 
 — 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 MAIN TRY-SAIL 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 M'ST & GAFF G'AR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Peak Halliards 
 
 1 
 
 Si 
 
 63 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 63 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 59 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 63 
 
 I 
 
 3} 
 
 48 
 
 Throat Halliards 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 46 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 43 
 
 Vangs 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 68 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 56 
 
 Peak Brails (pairs) - 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 37 
 
 I 
 
 2i 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 36 
 
 Throat Brails (pairs) 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 46 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 43 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 43 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 38 
 
 Middle Brails (pairs) 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 32 
 
 Foot Brails (pairs) - 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 36 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 34 
 
 Sheets ... - 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 62 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 54 
 
 Outhauler - - - - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 -. 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Boom Tackle for Out- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hauler - - - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 . 
 
 ReefPendants for Out- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hauler - - - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 Reef Tackle for Out- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hauler - - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 MIZEN-MAST&CR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 JACK YARD GEAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds and Pendants 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (pairs) - - . - j 
 Lanyards for Shrouds 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 144 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 143 
 
 6 
 
 7i 
 
 136 
 
 6 
 
 7i 
 
 136 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 136 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and Pendants - . 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 96 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 96 
 
 12 
 
 33 
 
 84 
 
 12 
 
 33 
 
 84 
 
 12 
 
 3i 
 
 84 
 
 Stay - - . . 
 
 1 
 
 9i 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 9i 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
Ron'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, 11. Si N.-Cbn. 355 
 
 h rigateSi 
 
 ■2d Class. 
 
 a 2| 
 
 3 2} 
 
 Sloops. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 50 
 
 ■21 52 
 
 42 
 
 3 30 
 
 li 8 
 
 2J 23 
 3i 48 
 
 2J| 40 
 
 2 2i 
 1 li 
 
 2 
 
 2 1 
 
 at 42 
 a 42 
 
 34 
 
 38 2 
 44 2 
 
 23 
 
 21 34 
 2| 33 
 
 6i 
 
 98 
 
 3i 70 
 11 8 1 16 
 
 1 3 
 
 2! H 
 1 2J 
 l' 3 
 2* 
 
 2i 
 1 
 
 2i 
 2 
 
 2i 
 li 
 li 
 
 n 
 
 ■2-2k 
 2 2 
 
 1 
 
 38 2 
 
 39 2 
 
 32 
 36 
 
 42 
 
 22 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 I K 
 
 5 6 i 86 
 
 10 3 
 
 1 7i 
 
 Brig- 
 autines 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 -2 
 22 
 
 22 
 7 
 17 
 37 
 39 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 32 
 38 
 
 Sdloon- 
 
 erS' 
 
 5i 
 
 78, 5 
 
 10 21; 7010 
 
 1| 7i| 131 1 
 
 Hi 
 
 24 
 
 2f 
 
 5i| 76 
 
 2i 70 
 
 7il I'ili 
 
 3i 
 3i 
 2i 
 
 n 
 
 3i 
 li 
 ■2; 
 3 
 13 
 
 2J50 
 5i 6 
 15 
 
 II <r 
 
 Steainer»- 
 
 23 
 
 221 
 
 5i 
 
 40 
 36 
 
 54 
 38 
 30 
 40 
 38 
 34 
 36 
 35 
 25 
 
 60 
 
 6 
 
 IS 
 
 28 
 32 
 
 10 
 
 41 
 44 
 58 
 40 
 36 
 38 
 32 
 52 
 
 6i 103 
 
 80 
 17 
 
'■G & Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 
 Ships of the £.lme. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 X'rlgates. 
 
 
 
 
 2 DKCKS. 
 
 tazees. 
 
 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d ClassJ 
 
 
 
 Names of Rigging. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 1 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 
 
 d 
 
 .i 
 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 d 
 
 S 
 
 f 
 
 d 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 M 
 
 1 
 
 
 _Z 
 
 cc 
 
 J 
 
 J^ 
 
 W 
 
 iS 
 
 ^ 
 
 m 
 
 •J 
 
 j£ 
 
 '5 
 
 iS 
 
 K 
 
 CQ , 
 
 i 
 
 MIZEN-MAST&CR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 JACK y. GEAR. Con. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Futtock Shrouds - - 
 
 8 
 
 5i 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 5J 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 54 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 54 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 5i 
 
 20 
 
 Slings rChain for all 
 
 vessels) ■ - - 
 
 Pendant Tackle Falls 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 110 
 
 '•if 
 
 3i 
 
 lOG 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 94 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 92 
 
 Foot Ropes . - . - 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 3* 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 3h 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 12 
 
 Stirrups 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 Truss Pendants (all 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hide) . - 
 
 1 
 
 G 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 7 
 
 Fall for Trass Pen- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 dants 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 20 
 
 Lifts - - 
 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 2G 
 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 Braces 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 86 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 76 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 80 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 68 
 
 MIZENTOP-M'ST& 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 YARD GEAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds and Pendants 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (pairs) - - 
 Lanyards for Shrouds 
 
 4 
 
 5i 
 
 74 
 
 4 
 
 5} 
 
 69 
 
 4 
 
 54 
 
 69 
 
 4 
 
 54 
 
 69 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and Pendants 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 56 
 
 8 
 
 24 
 
 56 
 
 8 
 
 2? 
 
 56 
 
 8 
 
 2f 
 
 56 
 
 8 
 
 24 
 
 56 
 
 Stay 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 12 
 
 Breast Backstays (pr.) 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 35 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 36 
 
 1 
 
 51 
 
 32 
 
 Falls for Breast Back- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 stays - - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 20 
 
 Standing Backstays 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (pairs) - - - 
 Lanj'ards for Standing 
 
 1 
 
 7i 
 
 39 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 36 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 38 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Backstays - - - 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 3? 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 31 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 20 
 
 Cat-Harpen Legs - 
 
 2 
 
 Si 
 
 34 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 34 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 34 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 34 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Top-Burtons - . - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 150 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 150 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 132 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 140 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 130 
 
 Runners . . - . 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 Top Tackle Pendants 
 Jackstays (Iron) - - 
 
 1 
 
 Ci 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 6i 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 (>i 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 64 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Foot Ropes - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 3| 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 Stirrups - 
 
 4 
 
 2S 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 2J 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 2} 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 2? 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 4 
 
 Flemish Horses - - 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 Parrel 
 
 1 
 
 5i 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5i 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 Top-sail Tye (all 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hide) - . - . - 
 
 1 
 
 5i 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 54 
 
 13 
 
 Halliards for Top-sail 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tye 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 55 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 52 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 49 
 
 Rolling Tackle - - 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 2? 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 14 
 
 Lifts 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 31 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 30 ■ 2 
 
 4 
 
 29 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 29 
 
 2 
 
 3! 
 
 27 
 
 Braces 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 2? 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 84 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 86 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 80 
 
 Sheets 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 46 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 4f 
 
 46 
 
 Clew-lines - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 82 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 78 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 76 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 78 
 
 2 
 
 2} 
 
 72 
 
 Bow-lines ... 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 50 
 
 Bunt-lines ... 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 55 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 57 
 
 2 
 
 2{ 
 
 54 
 
 Reef Pend'ts (all hide) 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 Whips for Reef Pen- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 dants - ... 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 68 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 GO 
 
 Clew Jiggers - - . 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 82 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 78 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 80 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 74 
 
 LiftJiggsrs - - . 
 
 2 
 
 2} 
 
 80 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
Biin'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Cbn. 357 
 
 Frig Ate Si 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 Sloops. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class, 
 
 2 3i 
 2 " 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 56 
 12 
 28 
 
 20 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 3 
 
 118 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 4 
 3 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 40 
 13 
 22 
 70 
 40 
 62 
 44 
 46 
 9 
 
 52 
 66 
 18 
 
 68 2 
 la 2 
 
 ih 38 
 
 4 15 
 2i 52 
 
 3J 
 
 2i 
 2i 
 3 
 5 
 
 2J 
 2 
 2 
 4 
 
 5i 
 
 2t 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 2 
 II 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 29 
 
 12 
 19 
 
 54 
 
 si 
 
 48. 
 361 
 36, 
 
 46 
 
 50 
 14 
 
 Brlg- 
 aiitiiies 
 
 Schoon- 
 ers. 
 
 Steamersi 
 
 80 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 ■a 10 
 
 2f 64 
 
 3S 
 
 56 
 13 
 
 28 
 
 24 
 36 
 
 30 
 
 3 
 120 
 
 5 
 20 
 
 9 
 4 
 3 
 3i 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 3*1 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 2i 3il 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 •2i 
 
 2 
 
 ■2 
 
 , 2 
 
 2i 
 
 2i 45 
 21 15 
 
 90 
 48 
 72 
 58 
 50 
 9 
 
 58 
 72 
 20 
 
3?8 
 
 1 Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 
 Ships of the L.iiie. 
 
 
 
 
 Frigates. 
 
 
 
 
 2 DKCKS. 
 
 Razees. 
 
 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 Names of Rigging. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 *3 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 d 
 
 i 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 ;i 
 
 £ 
 
 6 
 
 S 
 
 
 d 
 
 g 
 
 1 
 
 6 i 
 
 g 
 
 
 _5 
 
 ia 
 
 J 
 
 '^ 
 
 M 
 
 )-] 
 
 R 
 
 m 
 
 |4 
 
 _e 
 
 ffi 
 
 -1 
 
 Z 
 
 IB 
 
 3 
 
 MIZENTOP-M'STfe 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 YARD GEAR. C<m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Bunt-runner • 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 b 
 
 Jigger-fall for Bunt- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 runner 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 14 
 
 MIZ. TOP-GALL'NT 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BrST& YARD GEAR 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds (pairs) 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 55 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 46 
 
 Stay - 
 
 1 
 
 34 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 3.i 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 3J 
 
 14 
 
 Breast Backstays (pr.) 
 
 1 
 
 3J 
 
 47 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 46 
 
 1 
 
 3J 
 
 43 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 44 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 40 
 
 Falls for Breast Back- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 stays - - 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 Standing Backstays 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (pair) - - - 
 
 1 
 
 4* 
 
 49 
 
 1 
 
 4i 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 4i 
 
 45 
 
 1 
 
 4J 
 
 46 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 43 
 
 Long Yard, or Mast 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rope - - 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 53 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 52 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 47 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 31 
 
 43 
 
 Short Mast Rope - - 
 
 1 
 
 35 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 3S 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 34 
 
 9 
 
 Jackstays (Iron) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Foot Ropes - - 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 6 
 
 Stirrups - 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2; 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2t 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Parrel - - - - 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 Lifts 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 38 
 
 Braces - 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 78 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 76 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 72 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 68 
 
 Halliards - 
 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 45 
 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 43 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 42 
 
 Sheets 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 5B 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 49 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 49 
 
 Clew-lines - . - - 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 66 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 56 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5» 
 
 Bow-lines - - - 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 7S 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 76 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 72 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 1| 
 
 64 
 
 Bunt-lines 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 Lift Jiggers 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 Bunt Jiggers 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 1| 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 Tripping-line - 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 3-3 
 
 MIZ. ROYAL MAST 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 & YARD GEAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds (pair) 
 Falls for Shrouds - 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 35 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 li 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 If 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 Stay - - 
 
 I 
 
 2J 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 
 2f 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 19 
 
 Backstays (pair) - - 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 52 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 48 
 
 Yardrope - . . - 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 57 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 53 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 50 
 
 Jackstays (Iron) - - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Foot Rmps - - - . 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 2 i 
 
 2 
 ] 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 2 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 Parrel - - - 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Lifts . . . 
 
 2 
 
 2f 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 2^ 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 46 
 
 2 
 
 2| 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 24i 
 
 42 
 
 Braces - - 
 
 2 
 
 u 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 IJ 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 46 
 
 2 
 
 1| 
 
 46 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 46 
 
 Halliards 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 29 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 38 
 
 Sheets 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 33 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 33 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 36 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 38 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 Clew-lines - - 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 42 
 
 2 
 
 1* 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 38 
 
 Bow-lines r - ' 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 56 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 1} 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 Ui 44 1 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 46 
 
 Bunt-lines - - 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 22 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 18 
 
 Tripping-line - 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 29 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 29 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 24 
 
 SPANKER BOOM 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AND GAFF GEAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Topping -lifts 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 41 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 40 
 
 2^ 
 
 54 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 5i 
 
 38 
 
Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, C. S. N.-Cbn. 399 
 
 Frigates. 
 
 Sloops> II 
 
 Brls- Schoon- 
 
 
 
 
 
 Brlss. 
 
 
 Steamera. 
 
 2d Class. 1 
 
 St Class. 2 
 
 d Class. 3d Class.l 
 
 autines ers. . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 = 1 
 
 S 
 
 li 
 
 
 1 c 
 
 ,i 1 6 
 an ►J fc 
 
 ili 
 
 s 
 i = ■ 
 
 .2 a* o 
 
 ■^ i 
 
 .a 
 
 f 
 
 1 
 
 — 1 
 
 3 
 
 2J 
 
 I-- 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 2i 
 
 6 1 
 12 ] 
 
 3 
 
 2i 
 
 6 1 
 12 1 
 
 ^ fi _ 
 
 
 
 
 I 3 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 / 
 14 
 
 2 12 - 
 
 
 
 
 12i 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 41 
 13 
 
 2 3i 
 1 21 
 
 39 i 
 11 ] 
 
 J 2i 
 L 2J 
 
 34 2 
 
 10 1 
 
 74 ^^ - 
 
 
 
 
 3 3 
 
 46 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 2i 10 - 
 
 24 27' - 
 
 _ - 
 
 - - _ 
 
 - - 
 
 1 3 
 
 14 
 
 
 3 
 
 36 
 
 1 2i 
 
 32 
 
 L 2i 
 
 29 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 3 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ~ 1 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 2 U 
 
 14 i 
 
 2 U 
 
 14 2 
 
 li 14 - 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 2 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 35 
 
 38 
 
 1 3i 
 
 34 
 
 I 3i 
 
 31 1 
 
 3i 29 - 
 
 i_ _ _ 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 3i 
 
 44 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 38 
 
 1 3i 
 
 33 
 
 1 3 
 
 32 1 
 
 3 30 - 
 
 - _ 
 
 - - _ 
 
 - - 
 
 1 34 
 
 45 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 8 
 
 1 3 
 
 7 
 
 I 3 
 
 7 1 
 
 3 7 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - — - 
 
 - -i 
 
 1 
 
 1 3i 
 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 2 
 
 5 2 
 
 P Pi - 
 
 
 
 
 3 3 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 « o 
 
 
 
 ~ 1 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 2 2 2 
 
 <i 2 
 
 2 2 
 
 2 2- 
 
 -1 - - 
 
 - - 
 
 
 2 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 1 2 2 
 
 1 2 
 
 2 1 
 
 3 2- 
 
 - - 
 
 — — ' _ 
 
 - - 
 
 1 3i 
 
 36 
 
 2 2i 
 
 32 
 50 
 
 2 2 
 
 3 1? 
 
 1 2 
 
 2 3i 
 2 1} 
 
 27 2 
 46 2 
 
 28 1 
 36 2 
 43 2 
 
 3 26 - 
 
 1 3 ,1fi 
 
 - - - 
 
 - ~ 1 - 
 
 - - 
 
 2 24 
 2 2 
 
 40 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 liJ 
 
 2 1| 
 
 li 40 — 
 
 OK 
 
 
 
 I I 1 
 
 1 2i 
 
 2 2a 
 
 2 3 
 2 14 
 
 1 li 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 3 
 
 34 
 42 
 46 
 
 1 2 23 
 
 2 2i, 38 
 2 li 44 
 
 01 ^Fi 
 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 ^? OO — 
 
 li 40 - 
 
 _ - _ 
 
 _ - _ 
 
 
 
 45 
 63 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 56 
 
 2 li 
 
 50 
 
 3 1 
 
 48 2 
 
 1 48 - 
 
 - - 
 
 — ~ — 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 If 
 
 16 
 
 1 U 
 
 14 
 
 1 li 
 
 12 1 
 
 li 12 - 
 
 _ — — 
 
 — ~ ~ 
 
 
 2 li 
 1 li 
 1 li 
 
 18 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 
 18 
 14 
 20 
 
 2 li 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 16 
 12 
 18 
 
 2 U 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 14 2 
 10 1 
 16 1 
 
 li 14 - 
 1 ^(v 
 
 — — - 
 
 " ~ - 
 
 "~ 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 L LU - 
 
 1 15 - 
 
 — - 
 
 - - - 
 
 — - 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 2J 
 li 
 2} 
 2i 
 
 25 
 
 1 2i 
 
 24 
 
 1 3 
 
 19 1 
 
 2 19 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 1 
 
 8 
 
 2 1 
 
 8 2 
 
 1 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ] 
 
 17 
 
 1 2 
 
 14 
 
 1 If 
 
 13 1 
 
 li 12 
 
 
 
 ' 1 
 
 
 
 ] 
 
 49 
 
 1 2i 
 
 38 
 
 1 2 
 
 34 1 
 
 2 31 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2i 43 
 
 1 2i 
 
 38 
 
 1 2i 
 
 34 1 
 
 2i 32 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 4 
 
 2 2 
 
 4 
 
 3 2 
 
 4 2 
 
 2 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 1 
 
 1 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2^ 
 
 38 
 
 2 2 
 
 36 
 
 2 2 
 
 32 2 
 
 2 30 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 42 
 
 2 li 
 
 32 
 
 2 li 
 
 30 2 
 
 li 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 li 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 38 
 
 2 11 
 
 24 
 
 2 11 
 
 i23 2 
 
 li 20 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 S 
 
 34 
 
 42 
 
 2 1 
 2 1 
 
 28 
 30 
 
 2 1 
 2 1 
 
 36 2 
 
 28 £ 
 
 1 24 
 
 a 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1, li 
 
 16 
 22 
 
 1 1 
 
 20 
 
 1 1 
 
 18 1 
 
 1 16 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 41 28 
 
 2 4^ 
 
 27 S 
 
 J4i 25 ■ 
 
 
 " ~ ~ 
 
 -I ~] " 
 
 2 5 
 
 38 
 
 S 
 
 ! 5 , 32 
 
 
 
 
 
36a A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 
 
 Names of Rigging. 
 
 SPANKER BOOM & 
 GAFF GEAR. Con. 
 
 Palls for Topping-lifts 
 Foot Ropes - - - 
 Sheets - - - 
 
 Outhauler - - 
 Peak Halliards 
 Throat Halliards - 
 Vangs - - - - 
 Peak Brails . - - 
 Throat Brails - 
 Middle Brails - 
 Foot Brails - - 
 
 GAFF TOP-SAIL 
 GEAR. 
 
 Halliards - r 
 
 Outhauler - - - 
 
 Sheets 
 
 Downhaul - . - 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 GEAR. 
 
 Braces, Preventer 
 
 (Lower Yards) - - 
 Braces, Preventer 
 
 (Top-sail Yards) - 
 Gleets, Iron, for Tops 
 Chain Slings for Top- 
 sail Yards - - - 
 Chain Slings for Gaif 
 Palls, Cat - - . - 
 Palls, Fish — the sizes 
 and lengths given for 
 Sloops, Brigs & Sch. 
 are for Fish Pend'nts 
 Palls, Stem Boat - - 
 Palls, Cluarter Boats 
 Palls, Waist Boats - 
 Palls, Deck Tackle - 
 Pall's, Stock and Bill 
 Tackles .... 
 Palls, Luff Tackles - 
 Palls, Stay Luff Tack 
 Palls, Jiggers - 
 Fenders, Boat (Stuffed 
 Leather) — one set 
 for each boat - 
 Puttock Staves (Iron) 
 Guys, Fish Davit - 
 Guys, Gluarter Davit 
 Guys, Waist Davit 
 Gripes, Launch - - 
 Girt-lines, Pore Mast 
 head - - - . 
 
 Sllips of the Line* 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 3 DBCKR. 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 74 
 33 
 67 
 40 
 60 
 82 
 45 
 41 
 39 
 
 116 
 112 
 
 130 
 
 140 
 120 
 160 
 135 
 65 
 
 60 
 
 300 
 100 
 160 
 
 20 
 chain 
 chain 
 
 26 
 
 3J| 96 
 
 3i 
 
 116 
 112 
 
 130 
 
 140 
 120 
 160 
 135 
 65 
 
 60 
 300 
 100 
 160 
 
 3d Class. 
 
 116 
 
 112 
 
 125 
 
 135 
 120 
 160 
 135 
 65 
 
 60 
 300 
 100 
 160 
 
 5} 
 
 116 
 112 
 
 125 
 
 135 
 110 
 100 
 132 
 62 
 
 58 
 300 
 100 
 160 
 
 Frigates* 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 31 
 10 
 58 
 30 
 60 
 37 
 48 
 76 
 38 
 34 
 36 
 
 5i 
 
 7i 
 
 112 
 
 108 
 
 120 
 
 112 
 150 
 132 
 
 58 
 300 
 100 
 160 
 
 20 
 
 5i 24 
 3 90 
 
Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N,-Con. 361 
 
 Frigatesi 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. 
 
 Sloops. 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 Brlg- 
 autines 
 
 Schooii' 
 
 St^aiuerBi 
 
 2i 
 2* 
 21 
 3i| 
 3i 
 3 
 2* 
 2 
 3 
 l| 2 
 
 3il08 
 2J108 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 52 
 
 140 
 
 60 
 
 3ii 5G 
 
 280 
 100 
 160 
 
 4i 
 
 lOG 
 06 
 
 95 
 
 48 
 135 
 
 58 
 
 3 52 
 3i|240 
 3il00 
 2il«0 
 
 18 
 
 — — Cr's 
 
 24 
 
 90 
 
 46 
 130 
 
 56 
 
 48 
 240 
 100 
 160 
 
 a 
 
 18 
 
 100 
 90 
 
 20 
 
 90 
 
 46 
 130 
 
 56 
 
 48 
 240, 
 100, 
 160 
 
 4i 
 
 21 
 
 3J 
 
 95 
 
 12 
 
 2J 76, 
 
 60 
 
 44 
 120 
 
 52 
 
 44 
 120 
 100 
 120 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 2? 
 124 
 
 3i 
 
 24i 
 
 22i 
 42J 
 
 10 
 
 aj 
 
 1 
 
 74, 
 
 56 
 
 40 
 116 
 
 52 
 
 44 
 120 
 
 50 
 120 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 2 24 
 1 2 
 
 3i 40 
 
 2i 
 
 6 
 
 40 
 112 
 
 50 
 
 42 
 120 
 
 50 
 120 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 Si 
 
 35 
 
 3i 
 34 
 3i 100 
 24 160 
 
362 i Table showing niie Leugth and Size of Standing and 
 
 
 Ships of the I.ine. | 
 
 
 
 
 Frigates. 
 
 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 R.azees. 
 
 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 
 
 1st Class. 
 
 
 1st Class. 1 2d Class. 
 
 Names of Rigging- 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .c 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 5 . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 a 
 
 _2 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 
 S 
 
 i 
 
 ■|» 
 
 en 
 
 i 1 
 
 
 c 
 
 .1 
 
 1^ 
 
 '9 ■ 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 GEAR. Con. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Girt-lines.Main Mast- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hrad . - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 3} 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 3i 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 104 
 
 Girt-lines, Miz. Mast- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 head 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 2i 
 
 86 
 
 Girt-lines, Hammock 
 
 10 
 
 3i 
 
 640 
 
 10 
 
 3i 
 
 640 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 512 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 512 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 360 
 
 Hooks, Can (Iron) - 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 Hawse Pend. & Hook 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 7i 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 7i 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 6* 
 
 14 
 
 Hawse R'pe& Shackle 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 18 
 
 110 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 Halliards, Signal (set) 
 Hooks, Fish (fr anch.) 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 IJ - 
 
 ' _ 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 -- 
 
 - 
 
 Jacks, Iron (sets) - - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 1|- 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 — 
 
 Lines,ClotheE(Manil.) 
 
 52 
 
 2i 
 
 1560 
 
 52 
 
 24 
 
 1560 
 
 50 
 
 2i 
 
 1500 
 
 48^ 2J 
 
 1440 
 
 44 
 
 2i|1230 
 
 Lines, Tricing, Ham. 
 
 6 
 
 3i 
 
 144 
 
 6 
 
 3i 
 
 144 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 144 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 144 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 132 
 
 Nippers (dozens of) - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 3 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 Rungs for Jacob Lad- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ders (set) - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 Ropes, Buoy - 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 64 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 40 
 
 Ropes, Ridge, Awn- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ings (set of} - - 
 Ropes, Old (for lash- 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ings) — as much as 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 may be required - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ropes, Back (for Cat- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Blocks) 
 Rudder Pendants and 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Chains — as may be 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 required) - - - 
 Stoppers, Cal-head - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 9J 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 94 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 Stoppers, Ring - - 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 5f 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 54 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 54 
 
 16 
 
 Stoppers, Deck (chain 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 claw) - - 
 
 8 
 
 - 
 
 4 feet. 
 
 8 
 
 - 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 8 
 
 _ 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 8 
 
 _ 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 8 
 
 _ 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 Stoppers, Boats 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 32 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 32 
 
 4 
 
 34 
 
 32 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 32 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 
 32 
 
 Stoppers, Fighting,doz 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 3 
 
 4f 
 
 100 
 
 Stoppers, Bit - - 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 94 91 
 
 4 
 
 94 
 
 9 
 
 Strap Selvagees (doz.) 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 3 
 
 
 _ 
 
 3 
 
 
 - 
 
 Swabs (dozens) - - 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 _ 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 _ 
 
 3 
 
 _ 
 
 „ 
 
 3 
 
 _ 
 
 — 
 
 Seines ..... 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 80 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 8o: 1 
 
 „ 
 
 80 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 70 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 60 
 
 Shank Painters (a part 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (Chain) ... - 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 8i 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 8k 4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 Spare, Q-uarter Davit 
 
 
 - 
 
 chain 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Spare, Waist Davit 
 
 
 _ 
 
 chain 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Travelers, iron, for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Top-sail Tyes - - 
 
 6 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 6 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 6 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 6 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 6 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 Topping-lifts fr auar- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ter Davits - . 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 chain 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tackle, Fore-yard . 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 3J 
 
 88 
 
 Tackle, Pendants - 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 6J 
 
 8 
 
 Tackle, Fore-stay* - 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 3J 
 
 55 
 
 Tackle, Main-yard - 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 103 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 3| 
 
 102 
 
 Tackle, Pendants . 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 6| 
 
 8 
 
 Tackle, Main-stay* - 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 3| 
 
 55 
 
 Triatic Stay - - - 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 19 
 
 auarter and Stay - 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 80 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 80 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 80 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 80 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 78 
 
 • Or 'niatio Stay-tackle. 
 
Rnn'g Kigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. ^,-Con. 363 
 
 Frigates 
 
^64 
 
 >24.— A Table showing the Size and Description of 
 
 Names of 
 Bloslcs. 
 
 Descrip- 
 tion of 
 Block. 
 
 3 DECKS 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 s. 
 
 s. 
 
 D. 
 
 s. 
 s. 
 
 D. 
 
 s. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 s. 
 
 FLYING JIB-BOOM, 
 
 Downhaul 
 Royal Bow-lines - 
 Halliards F. T. Gal- 
 lant-iSast-head 
 
 JIB-BOOM. 
 
 Downhaul 
 Brails on Stay- 
 Brails leading 
 
 Boom-end 
 Martingale back-ropes 
 Martingale back-ropes 
 Top-gallant Bow-lines 
 Guy Tackles - 
 Guy-Tackbs - 
 Jib-stay Tackle 
 Jib-stay Tackle 
 Sheets in Clew of Sail 
 Hall'rds in head o/Sail 
 Halliards on top-mast 
 
 Trestle- trees 
 
 SPRIT-SAIL YARD. 
 
 Lifts leading to Bow- 
 sprit Cap - 
 Brace on Yard-arm 
 Brace on Fore-stay 
 Brace on Trestle-trees 
 
 BOWSPRIT. 
 
 Pore-top Bow-lines 
 
 Fore Bow-lines 
 
 Fore Top-mast Stay- 
 sail Downhaul - 
 
 Fore top-mast Hall'rds 
 in head of Sail 
 
 P. T. Mast Hall'rds on 
 top-mast trestle trees S. Iron b'd 
 
 F. T. Mast Stay-sail 
 sheets in clew of sail! S. 
 
 F. Storm stay-sail stay, 
 on Bowsprit S. Clump. 
 
 F. Storm Stay-sail 
 Downhaul - | S. 
 
 F. storm stay-sail hal- 
 liards in head of sail, 
 
 P.S. stay-sail halliards! 
 on Trestle-trees - | S. 
 
 Bumkin Blocks, ffore 
 tacks) ^ 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 S. 
 S. 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 FOREM'ST&YARD. 
 Runner - 
 
 S.Should'r 
 
 S. 
 
 Ships of tile Ijiue. 
 
 112 
 
 12 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 IstClass. 2d Class, 
 
 12 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.5 
 
 2.8 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.4 
 
 2.3 
 
 7 1.0 
 6. 
 
 1.3 
 
 Razeesi 
 
 8 1.3 
 6, .9 
 
 12 1.4 1 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 l.G 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.5 
 
 2.8 
 
 I 
 
 1.2 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 12|l.l 
 
 12 1.1 
 
 13 1 
 12 1.4 
 
 12 1.4 
 
 12|l 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 Prig, 
 ates* 
 
 IstClass. 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 15 2.3 
 
 117 3.0l 117 3.0 inls.O 
 
 8 1.3 
 12 l.G 
 
 121 1.6 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 1.5 
 2.8 
 1.2 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 2.3 
 
 .9 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 .9 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 1.1 
 121 1.1 
 121 1.5 
 12 1.4 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1211.5 
 12|1.5 
 
 8|1.2 
 
 1111.4 
 
 ll' 1.4 
 
 121 1.5 
 
 2.4 
 
 1.2 
 
 1|12 
 1 
 
 1.0 
 
 .8 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.3 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 .8 
 1.2 
 1.3 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.4 
 1.2 
 
 12 1.4 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 1.3 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 212 
 
 1116 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.5 
 
 2.4 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.3 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.8 
 
the Different Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N. 365 
 
 •Kvlg- 
 utes. 
 
 Sloops of War. 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 Brig 
 
 au- 
 
 Scboon- 
 
 Steam- 
 
 Sd Class. 1 
 
 1st Class.| 
 
 2d Class. 1 
 
 3d CLass.l| 
 
 
 tines. Ii 
 
 ers. 
 
 ers. 
 
 "T 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 a 
 
 "a 
 
 a 
 
 "ra 
 
 OJ 
 
 "d 
 
 fi 
 
 "P ■ 
 
 a 
 
 "^ 
 
 
 ai 
 
 S3 
 
 
 S 
 
 '3 
 
 t> ° 
 
 s 
 
 o .5 
 
 ■f 
 
 9 -6 
 
 
 o .a 
 
 ^ 
 
 P S 
 
 S 
 
 ? .£: 
 
 i: 
 
 
 N 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 S 
 
 g ff 
 
 r 1.0 
 
 1 ( 
 
 3 .9 
 
 _2_ _» 
 1 ( 
 
 3 .9 
 
 1 { 
 
 to 
 > .9 
 
 1 ( 
 
 i .9 
 
 a JO 
 1 E 
 
 ) .8 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 til 
 
 .8 
 
 fe: 
 
 ffi 
 
 m 
 
 1 ' 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 ( 
 
 J .8 
 
 2 
 
 3 .8 
 
 2 
 
 J .8 
 
 2 £ 
 
 > .7 
 
 2 ! 
 
 ) .7 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .8 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.3 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.3 
 
 1 
 
 3 1.1 
 
 1 ( 
 
 ) 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 3 1.1 
 
 1 ( 
 
 3 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 r. 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1.3 
 
 1 
 
 H 1.3 
 
 1 
 
 3 1.3 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 1 ' 
 
 ? 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 B 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 3 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 .2 
 
 6 .9 
 
 2 
 
 15 .9 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 ( 
 
 3 .9 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 
 
 5 .8 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 
 
 3 .9 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 
 
 5 .8 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 .8 
 
 2 G 
 
 .9 
 
 g 
 
 9 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 3 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 i 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 y 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 ) 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 S 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 3 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 S 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 6 .8 
 
 2 
 
 S .8 
 
 2 
 
 G .8 
 
 2 
 
 3 .8 
 
 2 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 .7 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .8 
 
 4 1 
 
 ) 1.2 
 
 4 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 1 
 
 3 1.2l 
 
 4 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1,2 
 
 4 1 
 
 ) 1.2 
 
 4 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 1 
 
 3 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 3 1.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 I 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 ) 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 1 
 
 } 1.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 3 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 } 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 J 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 [) 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 3 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 .9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 1 
 2 1 
 2 1 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 9 1.2 
 9 1.1 
 9 1.1 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 9 1.2 
 9 1.1 
 9 1.1 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 8 1.1 
 8 1.0 
 8 1.0 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 
 2 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 l.l 
 
 2 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 1 
 2 1 
 
 1 1.5 
 1 1.5 
 
 2 1 
 2 1 
 
 i:4 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 1 
 2 1 
 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 9 1.3 
 9 1.3 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 8 1.2 
 8 1.2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 8 1.2 
 8 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 11 
 11 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 G .9 
 
 
 G .9 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1.4 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 
 
 111.4 
 
 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1.4 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 
 
 ll!.4 
 
 2 1 
 
 1 1.4 
 
 2 1 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 1 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2.4 
 
 1 1 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 1 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.8 
 
 1 
 
 8 l.C 
 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 2.4 
 
 I 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 6 .9 
 
 1 
 
 6 .9 
 
 
 6 .9 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1.3 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 I 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 
 
 I ] 
 
 1 1.3 
 
 1 ) 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 9 1,1 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 1 
 
 4 2.2 
 
 2 1 
 
 2 2.0 
 
 2 1 
 
 2 2.0 
 
 2 1 
 
 1 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 9 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 9 1.6 
 
 — 
 
 
 "" 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2.2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 15I2.G 
 
 t 1 
 
 5 2.6 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 — 
 
 — *■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
366 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 
 
 
 Descrip- 
 tion of 
 
 Ships of tlie liiue. 
 
 
 
 II 
 
 Frig> 
 
 
 3 DECKS 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 Razees.' 
 
 ates. 
 
 Names of 
 
 IstClass 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 3tClass. 
 
 Blocks. 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 ^* 
 
 I 
 
 
 Block. 
 
 . «i 
 
 g 
 
 
 V 
 
 g 
 
 
 c 
 
 j2 
 
 
 a 
 
 13 
 
 .1 =? 
 
 
 
 s ■- 
 
 * 
 
 d 
 
 ■S 
 
 * 
 
 s 
 
 .£ 
 
 b 
 
 o 
 
 
 S , 
 
 = .a' 1 
 
 
 
 ^je 
 
 _CQ_ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ja 
 
 m 
 
 s 
 
 _a 
 
 CO 
 
 _Z 
 
 « 
 
 m .: 
 
 
 FOREM'ST&YARD. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Continued. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tackle for Runner 
 
 D. 
 
 117 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 17 1.6 
 
 Tackle for Runner 
 
 S. 
 
 117 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 17 1.6 
 
 Pendant Tackles 
 
 D. 
 
 217 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 3 16 1.5 
 
 Pendant Tackles - 
 
 D. 
 
 217 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 316 1.5 
 
 Truss Tackles 
 
 D 
 
 210 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 210 1.3 
 
 Truss Tackles 
 
 S. 
 
 210 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 310 1.3 
 
 Jeers - - 
 
 T. 
 
 222 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 3.4 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 3.4 230 3.1 
 
 Jeers 
 
 D. 
 
 222 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 32 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 3.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 220 2.1 
 
 Jeer Leaders 
 
 S. 
 
 2 20 
 
 2.2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 3.2 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.1 230 3.1 
 
 auarter Blocks - 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 216 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 IC 
 
 2.3 2 14 2.1 
 
 Clew Garnet 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 214 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.7 213 1.6 
 
 Cle-ws of Sail 
 
 S. 
 
 212 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 Li, 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 211 1.6 
 
 Bunt-lines under Fore 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Top • - - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 ].3 S 
 
 9 1.3 
 
 Bunt-lines under Fore 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Top - ... 
 
 Shoe. 
 
 218 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.3 i 
 
 16 1.2 
 
 Leech-lines on Yard 
 
 S. 
 
 4 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 811.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 i 
 
 8 1.-2 
 
 Leech-lines under Top 
 
 D. 
 
 2 8 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.4 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.2I S 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 Leech-lines After 
 
 D. 
 
 2 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 2 
 
 8 13 
 
 Leech-lines After 
 
 S. 
 
 4 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 4 
 
 8 1.3 
 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 
 s. 
 
 215 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 1.6 2 
 
 15 1.6 
 
 Braces leading under 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Main Trestle-trees 
 
 s. 
 
 215 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 l.C 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 i.el 2 
 
 15 1.6 
 
 Lifts on Cap - - - 
 
 D. 
 
 216 
 
 2.2 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 3.2 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 3.3 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 2.21 2 
 
 16 2.2 
 
 Lifts on Yard-arms 
 
 s. 
 
 216 
 
 2.2 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.2 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 3.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.2 2 
 
 16 2.2 
 
 Lift Jiggers - - - 
 
 D. 
 
 210 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 2 
 
 10 1.1 
 
 Lift Jiggers - - 
 
 S. 
 
 210 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 2 
 
 10 1.1 
 
 Boom Jiggers - - 
 
 s. 
 
 4 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 LI 4 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 Boom Jiggers (in and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 out) - - - 
 
 s. 
 
 6 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 6 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 Clew Jiggers - 
 
 s. 
 
 4 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 4 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 Bunt Jiggers - - 
 
 s. 
 
 3 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.1' 3 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 Reef Tackles on Yard 
 
 S.d'blesc'e 
 
 212 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.8 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.8 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 1.8 2 
 
 12 1.8 
 
 Pore Tacks in Clews 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 of Sail 
 
 S. 
 
 215 
 
 2.3 
 
 P 
 
 15 
 
 2.3 2 
 
 15 
 
 3.3 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2.2 2 
 
 14 3.2 
 
 Sheets in Clews of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sail - - 
 
 S. 
 
 215 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3.3 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 2.2 3 
 
 14 2.3 
 
 Swinging-boom Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ping-lifts, - - - 
 
 S. clamp. 
 
 211 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.5 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 1.5 2 
 
 11 1.5 
 
 Swinging-boom Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ping-whips, 
 
 D. 
 
 211 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 LI 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.1 2 
 
 10 1.0 
 
 Swinging-boom Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ping-whips, 
 Pendants for outer 
 
 S. 
 
 211 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.1 2 
 
 10 1.0 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Halliards, - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 216 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 1.7 2 
 
 14 1.6 
 
 Outer Studding-sail 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Halliards on Boom 
 
 s. 
 
 212 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.8 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 1.8 2 
 
 11 1.7 
 
 Inner Studding-sail 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Halliards on Yard 
 
 S. 
 
 2 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 9 1.3 
 
 Inner Studding-sail 
 
 Halliards on Quarter 
 Tripping-line 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 , 
 
 
 s. 1 
 
 2 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3' 3 
 
 9 1.3 
 
 -s. ! 
 
 2 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 l.li 3 
 
 9 1.1 
 
ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N,—Con'd. 367 
 
 Frig- 
 ates* 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 Sloops of War. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. 
 
 I 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 Brigan- 
 tlnes. 
 
 Scliooii- 
 ers. 
 
 Steam- 
 ers. 
 
 161 1-6 
 16 1.6 
 
 2.0 
 2.0 
 2.0 
 2.1 
 1.6 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.2 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 2 14 1.5 
 2 
 
 1.5 
 2.0 
 2.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 811.1 
 
 7 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 2.0 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 2 8 
 2 ' 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.7 
 
 2.2 
 2.2 
 1.4 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 1.2j 
 1.2 
 
 i.o: 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.8 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.6 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.3 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.2 
 Sil.O 
 
 13 1.4 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.8 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 ,9 
 1.0 
 
 .9 
 1.6 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.3 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 
 12 
 
 1.3 
 
 !:^ 
 ':3| 
 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 1.0 
 
 .9 
 1.6 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.3 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 
 12 
 
 I 
 1.6' 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.2 
 
 .8 
 
 9, l.l' 
 
 7,1.1 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 i\ 
 
 1.21 2 
 
 1.21 2 
 
 I 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.0 
 
 1,5 
 
 10 1.2 
 
 2 7 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 .9 2 
 .8 2 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 .8 
 
 1.4 
 
 l.ll' 
 
 3.0 
 2.0 
 2.0 
 
 142.1 
 131.0 
 
 10 
 
 1.2 
 
 .8 
 
 .8 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 .81 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.2 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.5 
 2.0 
 3.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 1.7 
 
 111 
 142.2 
 
 2.2 
 1.4 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 t.9 
 
 21 8 1.2 
 2. 8il.O 
 
368 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 
 
 ]Vanies of 
 Blocks* 
 
 1 
 
 FOREM'ST&YARD. 
 
 Continued. 
 
 Lower Studdiag-sail 
 Dowiihaul 
 
 After Guys 
 
 Forward Guys (Cheek 
 on Bowsprit) - - 
 
 Tacks on Boom-end 
 
 Tricing-lines for Stud- 
 ding-sail Gear 
 
 FORE TOP MAST 
 AND YARD. 
 
 Top Blocks 
 Top Tackles 
 Top Leaders 
 Top Burtons 
 Top Burtons 
 Top Runners 
 Breast Backstays 
 Breast Backstays - 
 Gin Blocks (To be fit- 
 ted with band over 
 Trestle Trees 
 Tye Blocks - - 
 Ply Blocks 
 Fly Blocks - - 
 Leaders for Ply Blocks 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 Braces on Collar of 
 
 Main Stay - - 
 Braces under Main 
 
 Trestle Trees 
 Sister - . . . 
 Leaders for Lifts - 
 Lift Jiggers 
 Lift Jiggers - 
 duarter Blocks - - 
 Clew-lines in Clews 
 
 of Top-sail - 
 Rolling Tackle - - 
 Rolling Tackle - - 
 Bunt-lines at Mast- 
 head- - - - 
 Reef Tackle Whips 
 Sheets in Clews of 
 
 Top-sail 
 Bunt-runner - 
 Jigger for Bunt-runnerl 
 Jigger for Bunt-runner 
 Clew Jiggers 
 Boom Tricing-lines 
 Span for Studding-sail 
 
 Halliards - - 
 Jewel Blocks - . 
 
 Descrip- 
 tion of 
 Block. 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 Piddle. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 D. 
 T. Iron b'd. 
 
 S. 
 3. Iron b'd. 
 D. 
 S. 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 
 S. 
 D. 
 
 S. Clump. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 D. Iron b'd. 
 
 S. 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 
 s. 
 s. 
 
 Sliips of tlie Xfiiie. I 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 11 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 IstClass. 3d Class, 
 
 14 1.7 
 
 3.6 
 
 •2.0 
 2.0' 
 1.4 
 1,4 
 
 1.7, 
 1.4 
 1.4, 
 
 RazaeSi 
 
 213 1.7 
 
 21311.7 2 
 
 7 1.0, 
 10 1.2 
 
 230 
 4 20 
 230 
 
 3.0 
 
 2.0 
 3.0 
 I.4I 
 1.4 
 1.5; 
 1.4 
 1.4; 
 
 15 1.' 
 
 2.2 
 1.4' 
 1.2 
 1.2' 
 1.2 
 8 1.0 
 
 Frig- 
 ates* 
 
 IstClass. 
 
 220 
 419 
 2|19 
 218 
 2 11 
 
 1.0 
 1.2 
 
 1.3 
 1.2 
 
 1.1 
 
 3.0 
 1.9 
 1.9 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.5 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 2.7 
 2.4 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 
 11 1.6 
 
 1.6 
 2.0 
 2.0 
 1.0 
 
 2 9 1.0 
 213 1.6 
 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 
 2.2 
 
 1.2 
 1.3 
 1.2 
 1.9 
 811.0 
 
 2 121 1.6 
 2 12] 1.6 
 
ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, t. S. N.— ConU. 369 
 
370 A Table sbowkg the Size aad Deseriptlou of the Dif-. 
 
 Names of 
 Blocks* 
 
 FORE TOP-MAST 
 AND YARD. Contin. 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 
 on Boom ends - 
 Studding-sail Down- 
 haul in sails - 
 Leaders for Boom- 
 braces in Main Rig- 
 ging - - - 
 
 P'RE TOP-GAL'NT 
 MAST AND YARD. 
 
 Top Block - 
 Breast Backstays - 
 Breast Backstays in 
 
 Channels - . - 
 Halliards - 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 Braces on Collar of 
 Main Top-m'st Stay 
 Braces on Main Top- 
 mast-head - 
 Sister - - 
 Lifts in Top - - - 
 Lift Jiggers 
 Lift Jiggers - - - 
 Cluarter Blocks - - 
 Bunt-lines - - 
 Span Blocks, Top-gal- 
 lant Studding-sail 
 Halliards 
 Jewel Blocks - - 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 on Boom Ends - 
 
 PRE ROYAL MAST 
 AND YARD. 
 
 Breast Backstays - 
 Breast Backstays in 
 
 Top - - - . 
 Royal Braces M'nT'p- 
 
 gallant Mast-head 
 Gluarter Blocks 
 Bunt-line Blocks - 
 
 PORE TRY-SAIL 
 MAST cfc GAFF. 
 
 Peak Halliards - - 
 Peak Halliards - - 
 Throat Halliards 
 Throat Halliards - 
 Peak Brails - - - 
 Throat Brails - 
 Middle. Brails 
 Foot Brails - - 
 Sheets - 
 /angs ... 
 
 Descrip- 
 tion of 
 Block. 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 S. 
 
 D. Iron b'd. 
 D. 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 s. 
 
 . Clamp. 
 D. 
 S. 
 D. 
 S. 
 
 SHips of the liiiie. | 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 llstClass. 2d Class. 
 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 
 s. 
 
 D. Iron b'd. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 D. Iron b'd 
 
 S. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 Cheek. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 112 
 
 2|12 
 
 112 
 l'l2 
 
 112 
 212 
 112 
 112 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 2.2 1 14 
 1.1 211 
 
 10 
 
 2.2 
 
 l.ll 
 
 j 
 
 1.1 
 1.3 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 l.G 
 l.G' 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.4 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 Razees. 
 
 10 
 
 Frig- 
 ates. 
 
 IstClass^ 
 
 9 1.2 
 9 1.0 
 
 210 
 210 
 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 2.0 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 1.3 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.4 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 .9 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.2 
 1.0 
 1.1 
 1.6 
 1.2 
 
fere at Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N.— Cont'd. 371 
 
 5'i-is- 1 
 
 ^ =^ ^ i_== 
 
 1) II 
 
 utes. 
 
 Sloaps of War. Brigaii-||Soliooii || Stcam- 
 
 
 Brisrs. 
 
 
 2d Class, 
 
 lit Class.| 
 
 3d Class. 3d,Class. 
 
 tiues. ei-s. era. 
 
 
 ■* 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 1 ^ \ \ i II* 
 
 != ,i.- 1 * 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 = S = 
 
 .2 S' 1 o 
 
 
 a "2 
 
 « 
 
 ^ . 1 cil ^ 1 1 .;l=s II . Ul ^ 11 
 
 . «j "3 ^ Ts . u ■a 
 
 d 
 
 •; > 
 
 o .i 
 
 i 
 
 O .-i s o rv > o .S S 
 
 a .H is d S i .o .K j: 
 
 _Z__o 
 
 5 f« 
 
 a J 
 
 •Ji _ 
 
 8 m oTj K m 5 S m '0 
 
 B mlm aS(o <s mm 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.1, 
 
 2 ' 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 G .9 2 G .9 2 5 .8 
 
 2 5 .8 3 5 .8 2 71.1 
 
 2 
 
 7.9 
 
 2 ' 
 
 • .9 
 
 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 G .8 
 
 3 G .8 2 6 .8 2 7 .9 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 2 ( 
 
 ,1.0 
 
 2 1.0 2 G 1.0 2 G 1.0 
 
 2 G 1.0 3 Gl.O 2 71.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2.0 
 
 1 1 
 
 L 1.8 
 
 1 a 1.8 1 10 l.G 1 9 1.4 
 
 1 9 1.4 - - - 1 122.0 
 
 2 
 
 9 1.0, 
 
 2 * 
 
 i 1.0 
 
 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 7 .9 
 
 3 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 91.0 
 
 o 
 
 9 1.0 
 
 2 f 
 
 3 1.0 
 
 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 7 .9 
 
 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 91.0 
 
 2 1 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 :i 1.2 
 
 2 8 1.-2 2 8 1.2 2 7 1.0 
 
 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 101.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 - - - 
 
 - J _ _ _ 2 8 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 7 l.o' 
 
 2 
 
 3 1.0 
 
 2 G 1.0 2 6 1.0 2 5 .9 
 
 2 5 .9 - - - 2 71.0 
 
 3 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 [1 1.0 
 
 2 G 1.0 2 G 1.0 2 5 .9 
 
 3 5 .9 2 5 .9; 2 71.0 
 
 8 \A 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.4 
 
 2 7 1.4 2 7 1.4 2 G 1-3 
 
 2 G 1.3 2 5 1.2 2 8 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 6 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 (i 1.4 
 
 2 G 1.4 3 G 1,4 2 G 1-4 
 
 3 6 1.4 - - - 2 G 1.4 
 2 5 .8 __ - 2 71.0 
 2 5 .8 - - - 2 71.0 
 2 G 1.1 - - - 3 9 1.4 
 1 6 -9 - - - 2 71.0 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 G .!) 2 G .9 2 5 -8 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 G .!) 2 G .9 2 5 -8 
 
 9 1^4 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 8 1.3 
 6 1.0 
 
 2 7 1.2 2 7 1.3 2 6 1.1 
 1 G .9 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 6 1.0 
 G 1.0 
 
 2 G .9 2 G .9 2 6 .9 
 2 G .9 2 C .9 2 G .9 
 
 2 G .9 2 G .9 2 71.0 
 
 3 G .9 2 G .9 2 71.0 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 2 G .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 
 
 2 G .9 2 5 .8 2 71.0 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 
 
 C .9 
 
 2 C .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 
 
 2 5 .8 - - - 2 G .9 
 
 2 
 
 6 .9 
 
 2 
 
 G .9 
 
 2 G .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 
 
 2 5. 8 ---2 G.9 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 C .9 
 fi .9 
 
 2 
 
 a 
 
 5 .E 
 5 .£ 
 
 2 5 .8 2 5 ,8 2 5 .8 
 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 3 5 .8 
 
 2 5 .8 2 6 .9 
 
 2 5 .8 2 G .9 
 
 _ _ ____1 G.9 
 
 1 
 
 6 .9 
 
 1 
 
 5 -i 
 
 1 5 .8 1 5. .8 .- - - 
 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 i; -.A 
 
 11 1.4 
 11 1.4 
 11 \A 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 10 1.: 
 10 1.: 
 10 1.: 
 
 10 1.' 
 
 i 1 10 1.3 1 1" 1-3 1 8 1.1 
 
 J 1 1.3 1 10 1.3 1 8 l.I 
 
 1 10 1.3 1 iO 1.3 1 8 1.1 
 
 } 1 10 1.3 1 10 1.3 1 8 1.1 
 
 1 8 1.1 1 141.7 1 111.4 
 1 8 1.1 2 141.7 2 111.4 
 1 8 1.1 1 141.7 1 111.4 
 I 8 1.1 1 141.7 1 111.4 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 1. 
 
 , o 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 7 l.( 
 3 2 7 .8 2 7 .8 2 G .' 
 12 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 3 G .S 
 I 4 10 1.4 4 10 1.4 4 8 l.i 
 I I 7 1.1 9 7 1.1 2 6 1.( 
 
 ) 2 7 1.0 3 91.2 2 8)l.l 
 ? 2 G .71 2 7 .9 2 ff .9 
 
 2 
 2 
 4 
 2 
 
 8 .1 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 11 I.: 
 
 8 1.S 
 
 ) 2 
 
 : 2 
 
 > 4 
 
 j; 2 
 
 7 i 
 
 7 1. 
 
 10 1. 
 
 7 1. 
 
 ) 2 6 .9 2 91.5 2 81.1 
 J 4 8 l.a 4 13 1.1 4 11 1.5 
 ) 2 6 1.0 2 81.2 2 81^i 
 
372 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 
 
 
 DcscriiY- 
 
 <, SUlps of the 
 
 Li 
 
 CK 
 
 ue. 
 
 
 
 II 
 
 Frig- 
 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 l.-.tC 
 
 2Df 
 
 s. 
 
 Razees. 
 
 Is 
 
 ates. 
 
 IWames of 
 
 aHA 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 tClass. 
 
 
 tion of 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 Blocks. 
 
 
 ! i s 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 ■f 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 i 
 
 
 Block. 
 
 I 
 
 
 .2 
 
 
 
 _o 
 
 
 
 =3 
 
 
 
 & 1 
 
 . a 
 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 "« 
 
 
 1. 
 
 ~p 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 
 
 a) 3 
 
 
 
 ■ d 
 
 
 ? 
 
 o 
 
 > 
 
 
 d 
 
 > 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 = 
 
 .?; ? 
 
 
 
 •g. 
 
 _TO 
 
 CO 
 
 ^ 
 
 S 
 
 m 
 
 ^ 
 
 _M 
 
 M 
 
 _2 
 
 m_jo_|_£ 
 
 ^_£ 
 
 MAIN MAST AND 
 
 
 : i 
 
 1 ' 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 YARD. 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Runner - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 l> 
 
 3.0 
 
 1 
 
 17| 3.0 
 
 1 
 
 17 3.0 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2.8 1 
 
 16 2.8 
 
 Tackle for Runner 
 
 D. 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 l.li 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 If) 
 
 1.6' 1 
 
 16 1.6 
 
 Tackle lor Runner 
 
 S. 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 1 
 
 16 1.6 
 
 Pendant Tackles - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 1.6; 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 2 
 
 16 1.6 
 
 Pendant Tackles - 
 
 S. 
 
 217 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 17 1.61 2 
 
 lu 
 
 1.6 2 
 
 16 1.6 
 
 Truss Tackies' - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10'l.3' 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 10 1.3 
 
 Truss Tackles 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 10 1.3 
 
 Jeers - . - 
 
 T. 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 2 
 
 20 2.4 
 
 Jeers . . . - . 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 2 
 
 20 2.4 
 
 20 3.4 
 
 Jeer Leaders - . 
 
 S. 
 
 ! 2 
 
 ■a 
 
 2.4 
 
 ■2 
 
 22! 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 2.4 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 2.4 2 
 
 Cluarter Blocks - 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 i 2 
 
 17 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 17 2.3 
 
 o 
 
 16 
 
 2 2 2 
 
 Hi 2.3 
 
 Clew Garnet - , 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 13 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 L6 2 
 
 14 1.6 
 
 Clews of Sail 
 
 S. 
 
 1 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 I3i 1.7i 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 2 
 
 12 1.6 
 
 Bunt-lines under M'n 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 Top 
 
 D. 
 
 ! ^ 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 10 1.3 
 
 Bunt-lines under M'n' 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Top - - ■ 
 
 Shoe. 
 
 : 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 18; 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 18 1.3 
 
 Leecli-lines on Yard 
 
 S. 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 4 
 
 8 1.3 
 
 Leech-1 ines under Top 
 
 D. 
 
 I 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8! 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 8 1.3 
 
 Leech-lines After 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 811.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 8 1.3 
 
 Leech-lines After 
 
 S. 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 4 
 
 1 
 
 8 1.3 
 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.0 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.0 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.0 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 2.0 2 
 
 19 2.0 
 
 Braces on Bumkins 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.0 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.0 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.0 
 
 2 
 
 19 2,0 1 2 
 
 19 2.0 
 
 Lilts on Cap - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 2 
 
 16 2.3 
 
 Lifts on Yard-arms 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 li< 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2.3 2 
 
 14 2.2 
 
 Lift Jiggers - - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1' 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1' 2 
 
 1:0 1.1 
 
 Lilt Jiggers - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 I.l 2 
 
 10 1.1 
 
 Boom Jiggers - - 
 
 s. 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 4 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 Boom Jiggers (in and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 out) - - - - 
 
 s. 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 l.li 6 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 Clew Jiggers 
 
 s. 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 4 
 
 9 1.1 
 
 Bunt Jiggers ■ - 
 Reef Tackles on Yard 
 
 s. 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 8i l.li 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 3 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 S.d'blesc'e 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.8 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.8^ 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.8 2 
 
 11 1.8 
 
 Tack Blocks- - - I 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.31 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.31 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2.3 3 
 
 15 2.3 
 
 Tacks in Clews ofj 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Sail - - - - 1 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 IG 
 
 2.3 
 
 •2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3i 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2.3 2 
 
 15 2.3 
 
 Sheets in Clews of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Sail - . - . 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 IG 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 2 
 
 16 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2.3 2 
 
 15 2.3 
 
 Runner for Bow-line 1 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 10 1.3 
 
 Jigger for Bow-line 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 2 
 
 10 1.3 
 
 Tricing-lines for Stud- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ding-sail Gear 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 I.l 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 2 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 MAIN TOP-MAST & 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 YARD. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Top Blocks 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 3 
 
 i=i 
 
 3.G 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 3.6 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 3.G 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 3.0 2 
 
 20 3.0 
 
 Top Tackles - - 
 
 D. 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 2.6 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 2.6 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 2.6 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 2.6 4 
 
 20 2.6 
 
 Top Leaders - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.6 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.6 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.6 
 
 2 
 
 '20 
 
 2.6 2 
 
 20 2.6 
 
 Top Burtons - - 
 
 Fiddle. 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 1.4 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.4 2 
 
 18 1.4 
 
 Top Burtons - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.41 
 
 3 
 
 11 1.4 1 2 
 
 11 1.4 
 
 Top Runners - ! 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2.8 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2.8 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2.81 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2.8 1 2 
 
 U 2.8 
 
ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, C. S. N.— Cont'd. 373 
 
 Frig- 
 ates* 
 
 ad Class. 
 
 1st Class, dd Glass. I 3i Glass 
 
 3.G 
 1.6 
 1.(5 
 l.li 
 
 15 1.1) 
 
 P't 
 
 19 
 19 
 19 
 15 
 13 
 2 U 
 
 Sloops ofWar. 
 
 14 1.5 2 
 1-1 1.5 3 
 p't 
 
 2.3 
 2.3 
 2.3 
 
 3.1 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 2 il8l 1.9 
 
 2 1181 1.9 
 
 as. I15I -2.-3 
 
 2 ;13.2.1 
 
 9 1.0 
 
 9i 1.0 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.7 
 2.2 
 
 2,2 
 
 2.2 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 
 I 
 1.1; 
 
 14 
 
 2.0 
 1.4| 
 1.4! 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.21 
 
 1.2 
 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 1.0 
 1.6 
 12 2.0 
 
 Bi-lgs. 
 
 1.5 2 
 1.5 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.8 2 
 l.D 2 
 l.i)2s 
 
 I.B 
 
 18 2.5 
 
 1.8 
 1.8 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 3. 
 
 .9 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 l.li 
 
 11 2.0 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 Brlgau- 
 tiiios. 
 
 Sclioon- 
 
 I 
 
 i era* 
 
 6 I .S 
 
 '■a ' M 
 
 3 11 
 
 2 rt> 
 
 3 6 
 3 I 6 
 
 1.7 
 1.7 
 1.9 
 
 .9 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 .9 
 .9 
 1.6 
 2.0 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.0 
 1.3 
 1.2 
 
 1.0 
 
 12 1.4 
 
 13 1.4 
 
 ii'i 
 
 2 10 
 
 2 9 
 
 3 8 
 
 2.5 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.81 
 
 1.4| 
 
 2.4! 
 
 14 
 
 1-1 
 
 3.0 
 
 1.2 
 
 Steam- 
 ers. 
 
 1.0 
 
 15'2.G 
 
 15'1.6 
 I51.G 
 151.6 
 15:1.6 
 
 p't - 
 
 19i2.3 
 il9!2.3 
 193.3 
 
 2 
 
 -2 
 2 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 2.0 
 
 ':Si 
 
 a.3| 
 
 10 
 
 2.t) 
 
 •2,1 
 1.5 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 14 
 
 1.9 
 1.9 
 3.2 
 ■2.1 
 l.O 
 1,0 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.7 
 3.2 
 
 2.2 
 
 1.2 
 1.3 
 
 8!l.l 
 
 3.0 
 
 3.4 
 3,4 
 
 171.4 
 1011.4 
 IOI2.6 
 
374 A Table showing- the Size and Description of the Dif- 
 
 
 1 
 Descrip- ' 
 
 tion of 
 
 Sltips of the liiiie. 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 Is 
 
 Prig. 
 
 
 3 DECKS 
 
 IstC 
 
 2 DRC'KS. 
 
 Razees. 
 
 ates. 
 
 Names of 
 
 ass 
 
 2JCias.«. 
 
 
 
 tClas.'i 
 
 Blocks. 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 'f 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 Block. 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 _o 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 d .E 
 
 a 
 
 c 
 
 « 
 
 "3 
 
 P 
 
 g 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 = i 
 
 
 
 
 ^ m 
 
 m 
 
 2 
 
 a 
 
 m 
 
 l£. 
 
 _a 
 
 m 
 
 _a; m 
 
 01 
 
 ir 
 
 T 
 
 aa 
 
 MAIN TOP-MAST & 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 YARD— Cuntinued. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Breast Backstays 
 
 D. 
 
 4 15 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 14i 1.4 
 
 Breast Backstays - 
 
 T.Iron b'd. 
 
 415 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 141 1.4 
 
 Stay leading in Fore 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . Top- 
 
 S. 
 
 1 15 
 
 3.6 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 3.6 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 3.0 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 3.6 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 3.6 
 
 Spring Stay leading 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 in Fore Top - - 
 
 S. 
 
 115 
 
 3.6 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 3.0 
 
 1 
 
 15 3.6 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 3.G 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 3,6 
 
 Gin Blocks (To be fit- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ted with band over 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Trestle Trees 
 
 S- 
 
 218 
 
 2.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 2.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 2.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 2.7 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 2.7 
 
 Tye Blocks 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 2 JO 
 
 2.7 
 
 
 
 ■20' 2.7 
 
 2 
 
 20, 2.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 2.61 2,18 
 
 2.6 
 
 Fly Blocks 
 
 D. 
 
 221 
 
 1.6 
 
 ^ 
 
 24' 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 l.G'i 222 
 
 1.5 
 
 Fly Blocks - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 224 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 2l! 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 21] 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 1.0 222 1.5 
 
 Leaders lor Fly Blocks 
 
 S. 
 
 2 22 
 
 i.e 
 
 2 
 
 :l-2 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 22 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 1.0 220 1.6 
 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 
 S. 
 
 218 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 18 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 18 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.8!, 21611.7 
 
 Braces on Miz^n M'st 
 
 s. 
 
 314 
 
 1.8 
 
 lO 
 
 11 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 14' 1.8 
 
 2'l4:i.8! 2l4il.7 
 
 Sister - - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 20 
 
 3.3 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 20 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.3 
 
 219J2.2 
 
 Leaders for Lifts 
 
 S. Clamp. 
 
 212 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 12 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 10! 2.2 
 
 Litl Jiggers 
 
 D. 
 
 210 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 101 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.0 
 
 210 
 
 1.0 
 
 Lift Jiggers - 
 
 S. 
 
 210 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.0 
 
 3 
 
 10 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.0 
 
 2:10 
 
 1.0- 
 
 Cluarter Blocks - 
 
 D. Iron b'd. j 
 
 213 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 13 1,7 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 2' 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 Clew-lines in Clews 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 j 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 ■ of sail - - 1 
 
 S. 
 
 212 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 12 l.G 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.0, 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 Rolling Tackle - 
 
 D. 
 
 lU 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 111 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1.0 
 
 Rolling Tackle - 
 
 S. 
 
 111 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 n!i.6 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 l.G 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 l.G 
 
 BurU-lines - - 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 213 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 12 16 
 
 Reef Tackle Whips 
 
 S. 
 
 4 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 4 
 
 9 1.3' 4 
 
 9 1.3 
 
 Sheets in Clews of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Sail - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 13 
 
 2.? 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 2.3 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 2.3 i 2 
 
 12 
 
 2.2 2 
 
 12! 2.2 
 
 Bunt-runner - 
 
 S. 
 
 110 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1.2, 1 
 
 10 
 
 1.2; 1 
 
 9 
 
 I.l 
 
 Jigger for Bunt-runner^ 
 
 D. 
 
 1 8 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.4! 1 
 
 a 
 
 1.4 1 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.4 
 
 Jigger for Bunt-runner 
 
 S. 
 
 2 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2^ 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2: 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 Clew Jiggers 
 
 S. 
 
 4 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.2: 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.2! 4 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 Boom Tricing-lines 
 
 s. 
 
 2 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 Bow-lines in Fore 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Top - - - 
 
 s- : 
 
 213 
 
 l.G 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.6 
 
 213 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 l.G 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.5 
 
 Span for Studding-sail 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Halliards 
 
 s. 
 
 213 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 213 
 
 1.7i 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7' 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 l.G 
 
 Jewel Blocks - - 
 
 s. 
 
 2 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 o 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 2ll3 
 
 1.7; 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 on Boom ends 
 
 s. 
 
 210 
 
 l.G 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.6 2;i0ll.6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.5' 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.4 
 
 Studding-sail Down- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 hauler in Sails 
 
 s. 
 
 2 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 I.O 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 .9 
 
 Leaders for Boom- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 braces on Bumkin | 
 
 s. 
 
 2 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 !l 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.1' 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 MAST AND YARD. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Top Block - 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 114 
 
 2.2 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 2.2 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 2.2 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 2.2 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 2.0 
 
 Breast Backstays ■ 
 
 s. 
 
 211 
 
 1. 1 
 
 2 
 
 U 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 a 
 
 1.1' 
 
 2 
 
 10 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 Breast Backstays in 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Channels - - 
 
 D. Iron h\\. \ 
 
 211 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 I.l 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 l.I 
 
 2 
 
 10 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 Halliards - - 
 
 D. 1 
 
 212 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.3 
 
 a 
 
 la 
 
 1.3 
 
 21 
 
 10 
 
 la 
 
fereat Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N.— Cont'd. 375 
 
 Prig, 
 sites* 
 
 2d Class.! 
 
 Sloopa of "War. 
 
 Lst Ulass, 
 
 'is Class. 
 
 3i Class, 
 
 Brigs* 
 
 Brigan- 
 tines. 
 
 Sclloou- 
 
 crs* 
 
 4 il3 
 4 13 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 16 2.5 
 lU -2.4 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 2.12 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.7 
 1.7 
 •4:i\ 
 2:2 
 l.i) 
 1.0 
 1.(1 
 
 i 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.2 
 
 ! 
 
 2.0 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 
 ■9, 
 
 I 
 1.5 
 
 i 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 
 1 
 
 1.4 
 
 I 
 .9, 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 a 
 
 11 
 
 2.4 
 2.2 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.6 
 1.6| 
 2.0 
 2.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.2 
 
 1.8 
 1.0 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 .9 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.0 
 
 11 1.8 
 911.0 
 
 9 1.0 
 8 1-1 
 
 2.4 
 2.0 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 l.b 
 1.0 
 1.9 
 1.9 
 .9 
 .9 
 1.5 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.0 
 
 1.8 
 1.0 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 10 1.2 
 
 11 
 
 1.8 
 1.9 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1 
 
 1.81 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.3, 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.0 
 
 1.7 
 1.0 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 1.0 2 
 1.1| 2 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.2 
 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 .8 
 .8 
 1.4 
 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 .9 
 
 l.G 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.4 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 7 1.0 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.3| 
 1.2 
 1.4' 
 1.4 
 
 \i. 
 
 :?! 
 
 1.2; 
 1.1 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.4 
 
 3.4 
 3.4 
 
 - 
 
 152.5 
 162.4 
 221.5 
 221.5 
 181.5 
 15|l.7 
 1411.7 
 182.3 
 
 3.2 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 l.G 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.2 
 
 2.0 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 .9 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.0 
 1.6 
 
 1.4 
 
 .9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2.0 
 1.0 
 
 91.0 
 101.3 
 
376 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 
 
 ' 
 
 Descrip- 
 
 I Ships of the Uue. 
 
 R 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 "■rlg- 
 
 
 1 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 2 DECKS. 
 
 azceSa 
 
 Eitea* 
 
 Names of 
 
 IstClass. 
 
 3d Class. 
 
 IstClasi: 
 
 
 tion of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BlockSt 
 
 
 
 1 i '■■ 
 
 , i 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 , i 
 
 * 
 
 
 Block. 
 
 
 .. s 
 
 
 ! .2 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 C3 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 . = 
 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 a 
 
 
 6 ~ 
 
 R) 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 d "5 
 
 .' « « 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 _0Q 
 
 > 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 M 
 
 6 
 2 
 
 (0 03 
 
 P s. s 
 2 _»:_«_ 
 
 MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 MAST & YARD. Con. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Braces on Yard-aims 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 Braces on Collar of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Miz. Top-mast Stay- 
 Braces at Mizen Top- 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 1.0 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 mast-head - - - 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 1.0 
 
 Sister - - - - 
 
 s. 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.5, 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.5 
 
 Lifts in Top - - - 
 Lift Jiggers 
 
 S. Clamp. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.5' 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.5 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0' 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 .9 
 
 Liil Jiggers - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 .9 
 
 auarteYBlocks - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 Bunt-lines - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 .« 
 
 Bpan Blocks, Main 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Top-gallant Stud- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ding-sail Halliards 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 Jewel Blocks - - 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 Studding-sail Tacks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 on Boom ends - 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 1.0 
 
 MA'NROYALMAST 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AND YARD. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Breast Backstays - 
 
 s. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 Breast Backstays in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 Top - - - 
 
 D. Iron b'd. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 l.l' 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 Royal Braces Mizen 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Top-gallant Mast- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 head 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 Cluarter Blocks 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 6l .8 
 
 Bunt-line - - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 .9 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 .9 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 .9 
 
 1 
 
 6 .9 
 
 1 
 
 .9 
 
 Bow-lines leading to 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 F. T. G. Mast-head 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 61 .8 
 
 MAIN TRY-SAIL 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 MAST & GAFF. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Peak Halliards - - 
 
 D. Iron h'd. 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4' 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 Peak Halliards - - 
 
 S. 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4] 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 Throat Halliards - 
 
 D. 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4' 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 Throat Halliards - 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4: 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 Peak Brails - - - 
 
 Cheek. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 Throit Brails - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2' 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 Middle Brails 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2, 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 Foot Brails - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 i.a 
 
 Sheets - ... 
 
 S. 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1.5 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1.5 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1.5 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 Sheets on Booms of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 two-masted vessels 
 
 D. 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 Vangs - - - - 
 
 S. , 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 1.2' 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 MIZEN MAST AND 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 CROSS-JACK Y'RD. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Pendant Tackles 
 
 D. 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1,5 
 
 Pemlant Tacklns 
 
 S. 
 
 214 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.6 
 
 214 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.5 
 
 Truss Tackles 
 
 D. 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 i.i| 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 
ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, C. S. N.— Cont'd. 377 
 
 Frig, 
 utesa 
 
 Sloops oriVar. 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 Brig 
 
 an- Scboou- Steam- 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 1st Class.| 
 
 2(lClass.l3dClass.|[ 
 
 
 tines. II ers 
 
 • ers. 
 
 i 1 
 
 I 1 
 
 3 09 
 
 1 J 
 
 i 
 S 
 
 1 
 
 CQ 
 
 a <r 
 
 QQ 
 
 1 -^ 
 
 1 
 ' ID 
 
 4 i 
 
 S. 
 
 i 1 
 
 * 1 
 
 i 
 
 M S5 ' to 
 
 i 
 
 3 f 
 
 3 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 ? .9 
 
 2 ( 
 
 3 .9 
 
 2 ( 
 
 3 .9 
 
 
 
 
 -J 2 S 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 3 1.0 
 
 2 . 
 
 > .9 
 
 2 , 
 
 > .9 
 
 2 . 
 
 i .9 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 
 
 - - 
 
 - - - 
 
 J 2 C 
 
 1.0 
 
 ■2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 3 1.0 
 3 1.4' 
 3 1.4 
 3 .9 
 3 .9 
 3 1.4 
 7 .8 
 
 7 1.1 
 7 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 f 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 J .9 
 
 7 1.3 
 3 1.4 
 7 .8 
 7 .8 
 3 1.3 
 7 .8 
 
 7 1.1 
 7 1.1 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 
 5 .9 
 7 1.3 
 3 1.4 
 7 .8 
 
 7 .8 
 3 1.2 
 3 .8 
 
 3 1.0 
 5 1.0 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 ( 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 2 
 
 ) .9 
 
 3 1.2 
 3 1.4 
 
 p .8 
 
 .8 
 
 3 1.2 
 
 3 .7 
 
 B 1.0 
 5 1.0 
 
 2 J 
 
 2 ( 
 2 f 
 2 f 
 
 1 f 
 
 > 1 1 
 
 - - 
 
 . - - . 
 
 - - 2 £ 
 
 - 9 ^ 
 
 1.0 
 1 i 
 
 ; .7 
 
 - - 
 
 - _ _ - 
 
 - - 3 81.4 
 
 . - 3 8 .9 
 
 389 
 
 3 \.i 
 ) .6 
 
 5 .9 
 3 .9 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.0 - ■ 
 
 - - 3 91.3 
 . _ 3 7 .S 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 2 ( 
 2 
 
 
 - - - 
 
 - - 3 
 
 - - 3 
 
 71.1 
 71.1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 1.0 
 7 .9 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 3 .9 
 
 S .8 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 5 .9 
 
 6 .7 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 5 .9 
 
 6 .7 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 J .8 
 G .6 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 fil 
 
 
 
 - - 3 
 
 7 .9 
 
 
 1 
 7 .9 
 
 2 
 
 6 .8 
 
 2 
 
 6 .7 
 
 2 
 
 6 .7 
 
 2 
 
 S .G 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 7 9 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 1,0 
 
 5 .7 
 
 6 .9 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 a 
 
 G 1.0 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 5 .9 
 4 .6 
 
 
 
 - 2 
 
 (31 n 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 - - 2 
 
 "i T 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - - - 
 
 - - 1 
 
 6 .9 
 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 5 .7 
 
 2 
 
 4 .G 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 5 7 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 1 1.4 
 1 1.4 
 1 1.4 
 1 1.4 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 1 1 
 3 1 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 8 1.1 
 8 1.1 
 8 1.1 
 & 1.1 
 
 I 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 8 1.1 
 8 1.1 
 8 1.1 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 1 
 1 1 
 1 ] 
 
 4 l.C 11 
 
 4 I.G; 2 
 4 l.G, 1 1 
 4 l.G| 1 
 
 4 l.G 11 
 4 1 .0 I 1 
 4 l.G 1 
 4 l.G 1 1 
 
 i;i.4 
 11.4 
 1 1.4 
 11.4 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 4 
 
 8 1.2 
 8 1.3 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 9 1.4 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 4 
 
 7 1.1 
 7 1.1 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 4 
 
 7 1.1 
 7 1.1 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 2 
 4 
 
 7 1.1 
 7 1.1 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 8 1.3 
 
 2 
 3 
 2 
 2 1 
 
 6 1.0 
 G 1.0 
 6 1.0 
 3 1.5 
 
 3 
 2 
 2 
 2 1 
 
 8 1.2 2 
 8 1.3; 2 
 8 1.2; 2 
 2 1.5 3 
 
 8 1.2 3 
 8 1.2 3 
 8 1.3 2 
 
 31.5 4 
 
 81.2 
 81.3 
 81.2 
 U 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 G 1.0 
 
 2 1 
 2 
 
 2 1.5 
 6 1.0 
 
 "3 1 
 2 
 
 2 1.5 2 
 G 1.0 2 
 
 2I.5I 
 61.0 2 
 
 71.1 
 
 ( 
 
 2 
 
 2 ; 
 
 - il 
 
 2 1.4 
 
 L2 1.4 
 yt - 
 
 2 ] 
 2 ] 
 
 1 - ' 
 
 1 l.S 
 1 1.S 
 
 •t - 
 
 3 1 
 2 
 
 — 
 
 1 1.3 
 1 1.3 
 
 'I 
 
 2 ] 
 
 1^ 
 
 1 1.3 
 LI 1.3 
 
 j'l - 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 _ _ - 
 
 --h 
 
 31.4 
 21.4 
 
 ) t _ 
 
378 i Tal)!e showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 
 
 Kamcs of 
 Blocks. 
 
 Descrip- 
 tion of 
 Block. 
 
 MIZEN MAST AND 
 CR. JACK Y'RD. Con. 
 
 Truss Tackles 
 Quarter Blocks - 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 Braces leading under 
 Main Trestle Trees 
 Litis on Cap - - - 
 Quarter Davit Top- 
 ping-lilts • - I 
 Quarter Davit Top- 
 ping-! ills . I 
 
 MIZEN TOP-MAST 
 AND YARD 
 
 Top Blocks 
 Top Burtons 
 Top Burtons 
 Top Runners 
 Breast Backstays 
 Breast Backstn^'s 
 Stay leading in Main 
 
 Top - 
 Tye 
 Fly- - 
 
 Fly 
 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 Braces leading at the 
 , . Main Masthead - 
 Sister - - - - . 
 Leaders for Lifts - 
 Lift Jiggers - - 
 Lift Jiggers - 
 Quarter Blocks 
 Clew-lines in Clews 
 
 of sail - - 
 Rolling Tackle - ^ 
 Rolling Tackle - - 
 Bunt-lines - - - 
 Reef Tackle Whips 
 Shefits in Clews of 
 
 Sail . - I 
 
 Bunt-runner - | 
 
 Jigger for Bunt-runner 
 Clew Jiggers - - | 
 Bow-lines in the Main 
 
 Top - - - I 
 
 MIZEN TOP-GAL'T 
 MAST & YARD. 
 
 Top Block - 
 Breast Backstays - 
 Breast Backstays in 
 Channels - - 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 S. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 
 S, Iron b'd. 
 Fiddle. 
 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 
 D. 
 T. Iron b'd, 
 
 S. 
 S. Iron b'd, 
 D.. 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 s. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. Clamp. 
 
 D. 
 
 S. 
 D. Iron b'd. 
 
 S. 
 S. 
 D. 
 S. Iron b'd. 
 S. 
 
 S. 
 S. 
 S. 
 S. 
 
 , Iron b'd 
 S. 
 
 D. Iron b'd, 
 
 Ships of tlie liiiic. | 
 
 3 DECKS, 
 
 110 
 
 13 
 IG 
 U) 
 12 
 
 3 DECKS. 
 
 IstCiass. 
 
 112 
 12 
 
 2,8 
 l.l 
 1.1 
 1.5 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 2.5 
 
 2. 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.3 
 
 1,3 
 
 1 
 
 1.7 
 .8 
 .8 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.4 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 
 2.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 12| 1.4 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 no 
 
 1 13 
 IG 
 16 
 12 
 
 12 
 18 
 9 
 
 •- ^ i 
 I 
 
 Razecsi 
 
 10 1.4 
 12 1.8 
 
 I 
 10 1.2 
 
 I 
 10 1.2 
 
 13 
 213 
 
 10 
 13 
 IG 
 IG 
 12 
 
 1 12 
 2,12 
 
 212 
 
 2.8 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 1.5 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 2.5 
 2.5' 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.3 
 
 1.3 
 1.7 
 1.7 
 .8 
 .8 
 1.4 
 
 1.4' 
 1.2 
 t.2 
 
 l.lj 
 1.1; 
 I 
 2.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 9 
 211 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 211 
 
 1.4 
 
 Frig- 
 ates. 
 
 IstClass. 
 
 1.0 
 2.0 
 1.4 
 
 1.4 
 1.8 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.2 
 
 15 2.4 
 
 10 
 
 l.l 
 J.l 
 1.4 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.0 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.2 
 1.7 
 
 1.7 
 .8 
 .8 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 1.1 
 1.1 
 
 1.9 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 111 1.4 
 
 2U 1.4 
 
 21) '.4 
 
fei-eat Blocks of ail classes of Vessels, \j, S. N.— Cont'd. 379 
 
 Prig- 
 
 
 = 
 
 — ^- 
 
 : 
 
 — 
 
 tlt.CS* 
 
 Sloops of War. 
 
 
 Brigan- 
 
 ScUoou- 
 
 Sleam- 
 
 i 
 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 tilics. 
 
 ers. 
 
 
 2d Class.! 
 
 1st Ulass.| 
 
 2iUlass. 1 
 
 31 (Jlas.^'l 
 
 Cl'S. 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 i-' 
 
 
 
 j; 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 •^ 
 
 
 
 ^- 1 
 
 
 
 'i 
 
 
 
 :! 
 
 
 
 = 
 
 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 = 
 
 
 _a 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 V 
 
 "5 
 
 
 i> 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 aj 
 
 ^ 
 
 , 
 
 J3 
 
 
 o 
 
 "s 
 
 t 
 
 "j5 
 
 
 c' 
 
 ~: 
 
 
 aj 
 
 "3 
 
 - 
 
 i 
 
 i: 1 
 CO 
 
 J_ 
 
 .2: 
 
 -^ 
 
 i_ 
 
 ^' 
 
 m 
 
 
 ■ m 
 
 L 
 
 
 'ti 
 
 V5 V 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Ai 
 
 6 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 p't 
 
 
 
 I'l 
 
 
 
 P'l 
 
 
 - P 
 
 1 _ 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 p't 
 
 
 Q 
 
 10 
 
 1.8 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 R 
 
 l.G 
 
 '2 
 
 3 l.G 
 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 '_ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 101.8 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 •! 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 d 1.1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 o 
 
 101.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 is' 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 2 
 
 81.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 S 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.5 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 J 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 i 
 
 1.2 
 
 ! 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 S 1.1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 ]4 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1.8 
 
 1 1 
 
 3 1.8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 2.0 
 
 2 
 
 IG 
 
 I.- 1 
 
 O 
 
 14 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 1 
 
 I .9 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 IG 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 ".) 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 n 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 9 .9 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 o 
 
 10 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 o 
 
 '.) 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 J 1.2 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 I.} 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 r.2 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 1 
 
 1 1.2 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1.2 
 
 t.> 
 
 11 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 1 
 
 1 1.2 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.3 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 
 
 8 3.0 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 2.0 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1.0 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1.2 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1.1 
 
 ] 
 
 12 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1.0 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 10 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 .y 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - ~ 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 ~ 
 
 2 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 I.l 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 8 .9 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 2 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 1 t^ 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 1 
 
 3 1.4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 15 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.5 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 G 1.4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - ~ 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.5 
 
 Q 
 
 S 
 
 1^ 
 1 
 
 .8 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 G 
 
 .' 
 
 2 
 
 G ." 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - ~ 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 Q 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 ' 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 (J 
 
 ." 
 
 2 
 
 G .7 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 ■- 
 
 
 i 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 5 1.3 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 ~ 
 
 
 " 
 
 - 
 
 ~ 
 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 ' 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 1.2 
 
 2 
 
 G 1.1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 ~ 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 ~ 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 i.3 
 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 (i 
 
 .9 
 
 1 
 
 G .'J 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 ~ 
 
 ~ 
 
 ~ 
 
 
 7 
 7 
 9 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 7 
 9 
 6 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 2 
 2 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 2 
 2 
 
 8 
 () 
 
 .9 
 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 G .'J 
 7 .9 
 G 1.0 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 ~ z 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 _ 
 
 2 
 3 
 
 2 
 1 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 1 7 
 
 1.8 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 8 
 7 
 
 ( 
 
 1.7 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 8 
 (i 
 
 1.7 
 .9 
 .9 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 8 1.7 
 7 .9 
 fi .! 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 : 
 
 - 
 
 ~ 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 2 
 o 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 a 
 
 8 1 7 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 b 
 
 .7 
 
 2 
 
 .7 
 
 ~ 
 
 ~ 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 "3 
 
 i 
 
 •<D 
 
 2 
 
 ■ 7 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 .8 
 
 2 
 
 G 
 
 .7 
 
 2 
 
 C .7 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - " 
 
 — 
 
 "" 
 
 ~ 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 
 .8 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 6 1.3 
 8 1.3 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ - 
 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 J 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1.3 
 
 2 1 
 
 sli.s 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
380 
 
 A Table showing' the Size and Description of the Dif- 
 
 
 
 Sliips of the Liue. [| 
 
 lazees. 
 
 1 
 
 Frig- 
 
 
 Descrip- „ 
 tion of 
 
 npc»rq — 
 
 2 DECKS. :|lj 
 
 ates. 
 
 Names of 
 
 °'^''''^-l^tClass.|2dClass.!| 
 
 stClass. 
 
 Blocks. 
 
 ?' 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 , is 
 
 1 i 
 
 
 Block. 
 
 O 
 
 .2 
 
 ° : 
 
 = 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 = .S 1 c 
 
 S "P 
 
 . » a 
 
 V "n 
 
 .' «; ^ 
 
 
 
 .i s 
 
 o .S is .o .1 i ; o N -f 
 
 
 
 5 JO m ^ 
 
 t» m 
 
 f m 03 . ■< 'ji\ m \ f: !B\ iB 
 
 MIZEN TOP-GAL'T 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 MAST& YARD. Cora 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Halliards - - 
 
 D. 
 
 1 8 1.2 ] 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 1 8 1.2 
 
 8 1.2 1 
 
 8'i.a 
 
 Halliards 
 
 S. 
 
 I 6 1.2 1 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 1 8 1.3 
 
 8 1.2 1 
 
 8 1.2 
 
 Braces on Yard-arms 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Braces on Main Top- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 mast Backstays - 
 
 D. 
 
 2 G 1.0 2 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 2 G 1.0 i 
 
 ' C 1.0 £ 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 Sister - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 8 1.4 2 
 
 8 1.4 
 
 3 8 1.4 i 
 
 ! 7 1.3 £ 
 
 7 1.3 
 
 Lifts in Top (Bull's 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Eyes) - - - 
 
 S. i 
 
 J - - 2 
 
 — _ 
 
 2 ' £ 
 
 - - 2 
 
 - — 
 
 Lift Jiggers 
 
 D. 5 
 
 2.7 1.0 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 7 1.0 £ 
 
 7 1.0 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 Lift Jiggers - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 7 1.0 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 2 7 1.0 £ 
 
 7 1.0 2 
 
 7 1.0 
 
 Cluarter Blocks 
 
 D. i 
 
 ! 7 1.2 2 
 
 7 1.2 i 
 
 2 71 1.2 2 
 
 7 1.3 2 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 Bunt-line - . - - 
 
 S. 1 
 
 7 1.2 ] 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 7 1.2 1 
 
 7 1.3 1 
 
 7 1.2 
 
 Bow-lines at Main 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 Top-masl head - 
 
 D. i 
 
 ! 7 r.2 2 
 
 7 1.2 5 
 
 ! 7 1.3 2 
 
 7 1.2 2 
 
 7 1.3 
 
 MIZ. ROYAL MAST 
 
 
 
 
 1 ! 
 
 
 
 AND YARD. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Breast Backstays - 
 
 S. S 
 
 7 .8 3 
 
 7 .8 S 
 
 7 .8 2 
 
 G .8 2 
 
 G .8 
 
 Breast Backstays in 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 Top 
 
 D.Ironb'd. 2 
 
 7 .8 2 
 
 7 .8 S 
 
 7 .8 3 
 
 fi .8 2 
 
 G .8 
 
 Cluarter Blocks - 
 
 S. 2 
 
 6 .8 2 
 
 G .8 S 
 
 6 .8 2 
 
 G .8 2 
 
 6 .8 
 
 Braces Main Top- 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 mast-head - - - 
 
 S. 2 
 
 6 1.0 2 
 
 G 1.0 2 
 
 G 1.0 2 
 
 G 1.0 2 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 Bow-lines leading to 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 M'n Top-masi head 
 
 S. 2 
 
 G 1.0 2 
 
 6 1.0 2 
 
 G 1.0 2 
 
 6 1.0 2 
 
 G 1.0 
 
 Bunt-lines - - 
 
 S. 1 
 
 6 1.0 1 
 
 G 1.0 1 
 
 6 1.0 1 
 
 G 1.0 1 
 
 6 1.0 
 
 SPANKER BOOM 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AND GAFE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ .^ 
 
 
 Topping-lifts - - 
 
 S. 2 
 
 13 2.7 2 
 
 13 2.7 2 
 
 13 2.7 2 
 
 13 2.7 2 
 
 12 2.& 
 
 Tackles for Topping- 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 lilts - - - - 
 
 D. 2 
 
 12 1.2 2 
 
 12 1.2 2 
 
 13 1.3 3 
 
 13 1.2 3 
 
 11 1.3 
 
 Tackles for Topping- 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 lifts - - 
 
 S. 2 
 
 12 1.2 2 
 
 12 1.2 2 
 
 13 1.2 2 
 
 13 1.2 2 
 
 11 1.3 
 
 Sheets - - . - 
 
 D. 2 
 
 12 1.7 2 
 
 12 t.7 2 
 
 13 1.7 3 
 
 13 1.7 3 
 
 11 1.5 
 
 Sheets - - - . 
 
 S. 2 
 
 12 1.7 2 
 
 13 1.7 3 
 
 12 1.7 2 
 
 13 1.7 2 
 
 11 1.5 
 
 Peak Halliards - - 
 
 D. Iron b'd. 1 
 
 141 1.4 1 
 
 14 1.4 I 
 
 14 1.4 1 
 
 13 1.4 1 
 
 13 1.4 
 
 Peak Halliards - - 
 
 S. 2 
 
 13 1.4 2 
 
 13 1.4 2 
 
 13 1.4, 2 
 
 12 1.4 2 
 
 12 1.4 
 
 Throat Halliards 
 
 D. 1 
 
 14 1.4 I 
 
 14 1.4 1 
 
 14 1.4 1 
 
 13 1.4 1 
 
 13 1.4 
 
 Throat Halliards - 
 
 S. Iron b'd. 1 
 
 14 1.4 1 
 
 14 1.4 1 
 
 14 1.4 I 
 
 13 1.4 1 
 
 13 1.4 
 
 Peak Brails - - - 
 
 Cheek. 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 Throat Brails 
 
 S. 2 
 
 !) 1.3 2 
 
 !) 1.2 2 
 
 9 1.2 2 
 
 !)! 1.2 2 
 
 8 1.1 
 
 Middle Brails - - 
 
 S. ■ 2 
 
 8 1.1 2 
 
 S 1.1 2 
 
 8 1.1' 2 
 
 8 1.1 2 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 Foot Brails - 
 
 S. 2 
 
 8 1.1 2 
 
 8 1.1 2 
 
 8 1.1' 2 
 
 8 1.1 2 
 
 8 1.0 
 
 Outhauler - - - 
 
 S. 1 
 
 13 1.7 1 
 
 3 1.7 1 
 
 13 1.7 1 
 
 13 1.7 1 
 
 12 1.5 
 
 Vangs - 
 
 S. 2 
 
 8 1.2 2 
 
 8 1.2 2 
 
 8 1.3 2 
 
 8 1.2 2 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 Vangs leading on 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Q.ua.rter - - . 
 
 S. 3 
 
 8 1.2 2 
 
 8 1.2 2 
 
 8 l.s' 2 
 
 8 1.2 2 
 
 7 1.1 
 
 Dasher Block (En- 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sign Halliards) 
 
 D. Ill 
 
 - - 1 
 
 - - 1 
 
 - - 1 
 
 ,1 
 
 
 
ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. St N.— Cont'd. 381 
 
 utes. 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class, 
 
 Sloops of IVar* 
 
 .9 2 
 1.3 2 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 2.5 
 
 1.1 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.2 
 1.3 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 
 2 4 
 2 G 
 
 1.1 2 
 - 1 
 
 1.2 
 
 11 
 
 2.0 
 
 Brigs* 
 
 11 2.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 Brigan- 
 tines. 
 
 Sclioon' 
 ers* 
 
 10 
 
 1.8 
 
 10 
 
 Steam- 
 ers. 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 .9 
 1.3 
 
 .9 
 
 .9 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 2.0 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 
 ,19 
 
 2.5 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.1 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 1.3 
 
 1.1 
 1.0 
 1.0 
 1.5 
 1.1 
 
 7'1.1 
 
S82 A Tabic sliowlag- the Size aad Desoriptlon of the Dlf- 
 
 
 JDes. 
 of 
 
 
 Ships of the 
 
 Liue. 
 
 
 
 Frig- 
 
 
 3 DF''""" 
 
 2 UKCKS. 
 
 Razees. 
 
 »tes. 
 
 Names of 
 
 
 
 1st Class 
 
 2d Class. 
 
 1st Cla.ss. 
 
 BlockSi 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 Bl'cb. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 _o 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 .2 
 
 
 .9 
 
 
 
 
 g "= 
 
 
 0, 
 
 "b 
 
 
 a 
 
 "a 
 
 
 oi 'a 
 
 
 6 "3 
 
 
 
 d 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 S 
 
 o 
 
 .S 
 
 
 
 
 .2 f 
 
 6 
 
 .S S 
 
 
 
 jg 
 
 ^ w 
 
 < 
 
 a. 
 
 03 
 
 _S 
 
 JO 
 
 m 
 
 a 
 
 ml m 
 
 z-, 
 
 m a 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BLOCKS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 Cat Blocks - - - 
 
 T. 
 
 22 
 
 2.G 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.6 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 2.6 
 
 220i2.5 
 
 2 is'ia 
 
 Cat Backropes - - 
 
 S.' 
 
 4 
 
 !» 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.2 
 
 4 
 
 911.2 
 
 4 
 
 811.1 
 
 Fish Tackle 
 
 D. 
 
 42 
 
 2.2 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 2.2 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 2.2 
 
 42012.2 
 
 420 2.0 
 
 Fish Leaders 
 
 S. 
 
 31 
 
 8 2.2 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 2.2 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 2.2 
 
 3 18'2.2 
 
 3101.8 
 
 Clear Hawse Pend'nts 
 
 S. 
 
 1 
 
 - - 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 _ '._ 
 
 1 
 
 - - 
 
 Bull's Eyestbr clothes- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 lines - - - 
 
 _ 
 
 100 
 
 - _ 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 100 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 100 
 
 _ - 
 
 80 
 
 _ - 
 
 Cap Bobstay Hearts 
 
 L.Vit. 
 
 2 
 
 - - 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 - - 
 
 2 
 
 - - 
 
 Middle and Inner H'rts 
 
 L. Vit. 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 4 
 
 - — 
 
 4 
 
 — :— 
 
 Bowsprit Slir'ds H'rts 
 
 L. Vit. 
 
 S 
 
 - - 
 
 8 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 fe 
 
 _ 
 
 
 8 
 
 - _' 
 
 8 
 
 - - 
 
 Iron-strapped Bull's 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Eyes (in head), size 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and number as req'd 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 LufTTackle Blocks 
 
 S. 
 
 601 
 
 2 1,4 
 
 60 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 60 
 
 12 
 
 1.4 
 
 601 
 
 21.4 
 
 401 
 
 21.4 
 
 Luff Tackle Blocks for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 j 
 
 
 
 Stays - 
 
 D. 
 
 161 
 
 3 1.6 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 1.8 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 1.8 
 
 161 
 
 41.6 
 
 161 
 
 41.6 
 
 Leading Rigging on 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 Fo'castle and Gang- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ways - - 
 
 Assort 
 
 12 
 
 - - 
 
 12 
 
 - 
 
 
 12 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 12 
 
 - J 
 
 12 
 
 - . 
 
 Fife-rail Leaders - 
 
 S.d.sc 
 
 53 - 
 
 - _ 
 
 5S 
 
 
 _ 
 
 56 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 56 
 
 - _' 
 
 56 
 
 _ _ 
 
 Side Leaders - - 
 
 - 1 
 
 100 ■ 
 
 - - 
 
 100 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 100 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 — 1 
 
 100 
 
 _ 1 
 
 100 
 
 - ^ 
 
 Snatch Blocks - - 
 
 Assort 
 
 20 - 
 
 - - 
 
 20 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 20 
 
 _ 
 
 _l 
 
 20 
 
 _ „' 
 
 20 
 
 _ ^ 
 
 Hamijiock Grirt-lines 
 
 S. 
 
 2Jl; 
 
 2 1.8 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 1.8 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 201 
 
 21.8 
 
 161 
 
 11.5 
 
 Ham'fck Tricing-lines 
 
 S. 
 
 121' 
 
 ) 1.4 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 121 
 
 O1.4 
 
 12 
 
 91.0 
 
 Relieving Tackles - 
 
 D. 
 
 2I( 
 
 ) 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 •2 
 
 to 
 
 1.4, 
 
 21 
 
 01.4, 
 
 21 
 
 01.4 
 
 Relieving Tackles - 
 
 S. 
 
 21( 
 
 ) 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 21 
 
 01.4 
 
 21 
 
 01.4 
 
 Awning Jiggers - 
 
 D. 
 
 8U 
 
 ) 1.4 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 81 
 
 O1.4 
 
 . 8 
 
 9i.a 
 
 Lower Yard Whips 
 
 S. 
 
 4 i 
 
 ) 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1.1 
 
 4 
 
 u.i; 
 
 4 
 
 81.0 
 
 Crow-foot Halliards 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 for Awnings 
 
 S. 
 
 12 ' 
 
 " .9 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 .9 
 
 12 
 
 -; 
 
 .9 
 
 12 
 
 7 .9 
 
 12 
 
 7 .9 
 
 Stern, duarter and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Waist Davit Blocks' 
 
 D.Irb. 
 
 20 IC 
 
 ) 1.4 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 
 201 
 
 01.4 
 
 121 
 
 01.4 
 
 Leading Trucks 
 
 D. 
 
 30 - 
 
 _ 
 
 30 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 30 
 
 _ 
 
 _' 
 
 30 
 
 
 30 
 
 _ _ 
 
 Leading Trucks - 
 
 S. 
 
 30 - 
 
 - - 
 
 30 
 
 - 
 
 _ 
 
 30 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 30 
 
 _ _ 
 
 30 
 
 _ _ 
 
 Fore Yard - - 
 
 Fiddle 
 
 23: 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 (53 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 1.7' 
 
 23 
 
 31.7 
 
 23 
 
 31.7 
 
 Fore Yard - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 It 
 
 i 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.7 
 
 21 
 
 61.7 
 
 21 
 
 131.7 
 
 Fore Stay - - - 
 
 D. 
 
 1 I' 
 
 ■ 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.7. 
 
 11 
 
 61.7 
 
 11 
 
 81.7 
 
 Fore Stay 
 
 S. 
 
 1 r 
 
 ■ 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.7; 
 
 1 1 
 
 61.7 
 
 1 1 
 
 S1.7 
 
 Main Yard - - 
 
 Fiddle 
 
 23: 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 1.7 
 
 23 
 
 31.7 
 
 23 
 
 31.7 
 
 Main Yard . . - 
 
 S. 
 
 2 It 
 
 i 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.7 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 1.7: 
 
 21 
 
 61.7 
 
 21 
 
 S1.7 
 
 Main Stay - - 
 
 D. 
 
 11' 
 
 " 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.7, 
 
 11 
 
 61.7 
 
 11 
 
 S1.7 
 
 Main Stay - - - 
 
 S. 
 
 11' 
 
 ■ 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1.7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 I.7I 
 
 11 
 
 6 1.7 
 
 11 
 
 S1.7 
 
 Cluarter and Stay - 
 
 S. 
 
 4U 
 
 ) 1.6 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 1.6 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 1.6 
 
 41 
 
 51.6 
 
 41 
 
 51.6 
 
 Dead Eyes (set) 
 
 - 
 
 1 - 
 
 - - 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Stock and Bill Tackle 
 
 D. 
 
 2 IS 
 
 ! 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 21 
 
 21.6 
 
 21 
 
 21.6 
 
 Stock and Bill Tackle' 
 
 S. 
 
 2 IS 
 
 ! 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 21 
 
 21.6 
 
 21 
 
 21.6 
 
 Trucks for Jaws of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ! 
 
 
 
 Gaff (set) 
 Masthead Tructe(set) 
 
 - 
 
 1 - 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 - 
 
 1 - 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 _ _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ _ 
 
 P. T. Studding-sail 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Boom Burtons - 
 
 D. 
 
 21C 
 
 )1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 21 
 
 01.1 
 
 21 
 
 Dl.l 
 
 F. T. Studding-sail 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Boom Burtons - 
 
 S. 
 
 2K 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1.1 
 
 21 
 
 81.1, 
 
 21 
 
 Dl.l 
 
fereat Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N.— Con&d. 383 
 
 ad Class. 
 
 Sloops of War. 
 
 1st Class, ad Class. 1 3d Class, 
 
 Brigs. 
 
 Brigau- 
 tines. 
 
 Schooiv 
 ors. 
 
 Steam- 
 ers. 
 
 3.1 
 1.1 
 3.0 
 
 1.8 
 
 17 3.r 
 6 l.T 
 IS Ji.O' 
 
 IG 
 
 60 
 2 
 4 
 
 40 
 IG 
 
 12 
 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 30 
 30 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 •2 
 3 
 1 
 1 
 
 8 
 J 36 
 -'80 
 -'15 
 
 10 
 
 1.2 
 
 16| 1.5 
 15' 1.6 
 151 1.6 
 14 1.5, 
 
 10 
 20 
 20 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 3 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 4 
 1 
 2 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 210 
 
 alio 
 
 1.1 
 
 3D 
 
 10 1.2 
 12 1.3 
 
 34 
 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 J.5 
 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 1.1 
 
 13 
 
 1.7 
 
 20 
 
 1.5 
 1.3 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 1.3 
 1.5 
 1.5 
 ,1.4 
 
 1.2 
 1.2 
 
 3 19 
 
 1.0 
 
 2D 
 
 12 
 
 1.6 
 
 3D 
 
 1.0 
 
 11 
 
 1.5 
 
 20 
 
 9 1.2 
 7! . .9; 
 
 001 
 
 1.0 
 
 5 .7 
 1.0 
 
 :] 
 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1.4 
 1.5 
 
 10 
 
 1.4 
 1.0 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 1.2 
 1.0 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.6 
 1.5 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 1.5 
 1.6 
 1.6 
 14I1.5 
 
 1 - 
 1 
 
 2,10 
 
 1.4 
 1.4 
 
 1.0 
 
 2I10I1.O 
 
384 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 625. — A Table showing the projective Distances from 
 Spar-deck of U. 8> Ship North Carolinat 
 
 
 From Night-head to Bowsprit Cap - - - 53 feat. 
 
 " " to Jib-boom - - - 91 
 
 " to Flying Jib-boom - - - 109 
 
 " " to Jib of Jib-Truck - - 128 " 
 
 From Spar-deck to Fore Cap .... 770. " 
 
 " " to F. T. M. Cap - - 122^- " 
 
 '' " to F. T. Gallant Cap - - - 145^ " 
 
 " " to F. Royal Cap - - - 170i " 
 
 " " to F. Sky-sail Truck - - - 187i " 
 
 " " to Main Cap ... 90 « 
 
 to M. T. M. Cap ... 141 " 
 
 " " to M. T. Gallant Cap - - 166 " 
 
 " " to M. Royal Cap ... 193i " 
 
 " " to M. Sky-sail Truck - - 211i " 
 
 " " to Mizen Cap - - - - 75f " 
 
 " « toM. T. M. Cap - - - lie' " 
 
 " " to M. T. Gallant Cap - - - 136 « 
 
 " " to M. Royal Cap - - - 158 " 
 
 " to M. Sky-sail Truck - - - 173 " 
 
 Length on Spar-deck ..... 209 ' 
 
 Main Gun-deck 207 " 
 
 Lower Gun-deck 201 " 
 
 Extreme length from Night-head to Taffrail - 210 " 
 
 Breadth of Beam 53.6 
 
 Depth from Taffrail to False Keel - - - 53.4 
 
 Height from Water to Port-sill .... 7.5 
 
 Height between deck from Spar to Main Gun-deck 7.1 
 
 " " " from Main to Lower Gun-deck 7.3 
 
 " " " from Lower to Orlop - - 7.3 
 
 Size of Spar-deck Beam . . _ . . 10 
 
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 " of Lower Gun-deck Beam .... 1.3 
 
 Height from Port-sills to Spar-deck ... .7 
 
 1 " " to Main Gun-deck - - l.llf 
 
 " " to Lower Gun-deck - - 2.2 
 
OR YOUNG SA1L.ORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 Distance between Ports No. 1 and 2, Spar-deck 
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OR YOUJNG SAILORS' ASSISTAl^T. 389 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 527.— FOR BLACKING SHIP'S STANDING-EIGGING. 
 
 To a half barrel of tar add 6 gallons of whiskey, 4 pounds of 
 litharge, 4 pounds lamp-black, 2 buckets of boiling beef-pickle, 
 or hot salt water out of the coppers, if the other cannot be had 
 conveniently; mix well together and apply immediately. 
 
 528.— FOE, BLACKING GUNS. 
 
 Six pound of beeswax mixed with one gallon of spirits of tur- 
 pentine, one paper of lamp-black, mixed well together, for twenty 
 24 pounders. 
 
 Note. — The beeswax to be cut fine, and dissolved in spirits of 
 turpentine before being mixed with the lamp-black. 
 
 529.— FOR BLACKING HAMMOCK-CLOTHS, YARDS, 
 AND BENDS. 
 
 First scrub the cloth well with salt water, and while wet put 
 on the first coat of priming, which should be well-ground paint, 
 with one and-a-half pounds of beeswax added to each gallon of 
 paint; after the first coat is dry, put on second, mixed as follows, 
 viz. : one pound lamp-black mixed for paint, one pound red lead, 
 one gallon paint oil, half pound litharge, and half an ounce of 
 indigo, boiled for half an hour, and stirred at intervals. Care 
 should be taken that the composition boils that length of time. 
 After it has cooled a little, add one pint of spirits of turpentine ; 
 apply when warm, and it will dry in a short time with a beauti- 
 ful gloss and be perfectly limber. This last mixture has been 
 found very suitable for yards, and also the bends ; but it must 
 never be used too warm, particularly on canvass, m which case 
 it will lose its gloss. The priming, or first coat, is not put on 
 cloths that have been blacked before. 
 
390 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
 
 530.— FOR MAKING LIQUID-BLACKING. 
 
 Four ounces of ivoiy black, five or six table-spoonsful of mo- 
 lasses, one and a-half ounce oil of vitriol, one and a-half ounce 
 sweet oil, and six gills of vinegar. After mixing the ingredients 
 together well and stirring them frequently, the blacking Avill be 
 fit for use. 
 
 531.— FOR BLACKING GUNS. 
 
 Six ounces of lamp-black, three pints of spirits of turpentme, 
 and three ounces of litharge to be put in after the lamp-black 
 and turpentine are well mixed ; add one ounce of umber to give 
 it a gloss, and one gallon bright varnish. 
 
 532.— COMPOSITION FOR BLACKING GUNS. 
 
 Six pounds of beeswax cut up fine, then add seven quarts 
 spirits of tuipentine ; let it stand until it is well dissolved, then 
 add one pound lamp-black, and mix it well together. 
 
 533.— FOR MAKING BLACK-VARNISH, NO. I. 
 
 Two pounds of gum shellac, two pounds umber, one gallon 
 hnseed oil, and quarter pound of lamp-black ; boiled together for 
 four hours over a slow fire. 
 
 534.— COMPOSITION FOR BLACKING HAMMOCK 
 CLOTHS, NO. L 
 
 Twenty pounds of beeswax, four pounds rosin, two gallons 
 spirits of turpentine, one gallon paint oil, and six pound of lamp- 
 black. Boil them well together, and keep it warm while put 
 ting on. 
 
 Note. — To be piimed first with lead-colored paint. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 391 
 
 535— COMPOSITION FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. It 
 
 Forty-eight pounds of yellow ochre, eight pounds black paint, 
 hall pound soap, and three pints of fresh water. 
 
 536.— FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. IIL 
 
 Haifa pound of black paint, three pounds yellow ochre, half 
 pound of soap, three-quarters of a gill of fresh water. 
 
 537.— FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. IV, 
 
 Eighty pounds black paint well giound, ten gallons linseed oil, 
 ten pounds of beeswax, five pounds litharge, and one gallon of 
 spirits of turpentine. For blacking bends, add two gallons of 
 tar. 
 
 538.— FOR MAKING BLACK-VARNISH, NO. II. 
 
 One gallon of the spirits of tui^pentine, one pound and four 
 ounces of rosin, one pound and four ounces lamp-black, and one 
 quart of linseed oil ; to be boiled on a slow fire for half-an-hour, 
 then used or lai4 on when cold. 
 
 539.— SOLDER FOR COPPER. 
 
 Nothing is necessary here, but good tough borax and brass, ■ 
 well mixed together with water, to the consistence of paste. 
 
392 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 
 
 5 40.— SOLDER FOR LEAD. 
 
 Take two parts of water-lead, and one part of tin ; its good- 
 ness is tried by melting it, and pouring the size of a half dollar 
 piece on a table ; then if it be good there will arise small, bright 
 stars or beads on it. Apply rosin when you use it. 
 
 541.— TO MAKE THE BEST DRYING OIL. 
 
 Mix one pound of htharge of gold to every six gallons of oil ; 
 boil it over a slow fire, but not too much, least it prove too thick, 
 and be unserviceable. 
 
 542.— FOR BLACK STAIN. 
 
 Four ounces of copperas ; iron rust, or a few pieces of old iron 
 noop ; one gallon of vinegar ; half pound lamp-black, and a small 
 quantity of oak shavings. 
 
 543.— BLACKING GUNS, SHOT, &o. 
 
 Coal tar alone, or mixed with a little salt water, is a good 
 thing for blacking guns and shot. It should be laid on quite 
 warm, and if the day be cold, a hot shot may with advantage be 
 put into the guns to warm the metal, and make it take the black- 
 ing better, due attention being previously paid to unloading. 
 
 Lay the stuff on as thin as possible, with paint-brushes, using 
 hot loggerheads or bolts to keep it warm. 
 
 If well laid on, and wiped afterwards with an oil-cloth oc- 
 casionally, this process will prevent rust, and preserve the good 
 look of the guns for a length of time, without having recourse to 
 washing with water. 
 
OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 
 
 393 
 
 544.— FRENCH EECIPB FOR BLACKINa GUNS, &c. 
 
 To one gallon of vinegar, put ten ounces of lamp-black, and 
 one pound and a-half of clear sifted iron-rust, and mix them well 
 together. 
 
 Lay this on the guns after a good coat of black paint, and rub 
 it occasionally with a soft oil-cloth. 
 
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 From the Sailor's Mag:azine. 
 The Kedge Anchor; or, Yodng Sailor's Assistant: second ediiion, improved 
 and enlarged with additional matter, iMusiraled with seventy engravings, and 
 tables, 8vo., pp. 420. By William Brady, Sailing Master, U. S. Nuvij; re- 
 viewed by a Master Mariner. 
 
 This is a work very mnch needed for the younger members of our profession, 
 being the most complete thing of the kind that has ever been published. There 
 is nothing of the smallest moment in use on board a man-of-war, or merchant- 
 man, but it has illustrated in a plate, and its use or uses fully described. With 
 singular faithfulness it details the whole minutiae of ship's duty, from the knot- 
 ting of ropeyarns to splicing heavy cables and fitting standing rigging. It not 
 only embraces all the particulars of the rigging work, but explains with equal 
 clearness the various mechanical operations necessarily combined to fit out a first 
 class ship. Here the novice may acquire a great deal by practising from the 
 various plates and figures, while preparing for a nautical life ; besides, from its 
 fullness on those subjects the most interesting to the young sailor, it will be calcu- 
 lated to lead him to study his Manual, and thereby not entirely lose all relish for 
 etudy, when first embalming in his ocean life, which has hitherto been so common 
 and so disadvantageous to young men. There is no kind of duty on ship-board 
 but is here explained, and I conceive it the most valuable work not only for 
 novices, but for every grade in our profession. There is a great deal of very 
 useful information for all, however experienced they may be. Every kind of spar 
 is described, with its relative proportions and use — the rules for which few men 
 can carry in their minds. And it is quite important to know, in masting and 
 sparring a ship, what are the principles which govern the usage of the day, even 
 if we alter the proportions afterward to suit our own caprice or fancy. 
 
 The author has clearly shown himself to be master of his business; he has 
 described fully all the various parts of the ship's hull and spars — the different 
 pieces of standing and running rigging, with the way to fit the one and how to 
 cut and reeve the other. He teaches how to get the masts and yards on board, 
 aloft, and rigged — he speaks of all with sufficient clearness, and at the same time 
 does not unnecessarily multiply words. After rigging and sparring the ship, he 
 bends the sails, after the most judicious plan in fitting out for sea, or when blown 
 away or split in a storm — and after putting the ship to sea, as it were, he then, in 
 a seamanlike manner, explains all the various evolutions through which a ship 
 may be passed, and supposes almost every extremity to which a ship is liable, 
 giving the modern, and I might add, profi'iably improved method of doing i hiugs ; 
 
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 395 
 
 for it is well known, that during the last 30 years there have been very many 
 and equally great improvements in the method of rigging as well as working sea- 
 gomg ships. 
 
 I observe the author explains, in such places as have been deemed necessary, 
 the different methods in use on board heavy-armed ships and merchantmen, which 
 makes the book the more valuable to both classes of the service. Mr. Brady has 
 some capital and useful remarks on the subject of the barometer, some of which 
 I found entirely new lo myself, although having used one for the last twenty 
 years. But I conceive that his tables are very valuable even to shipmasters. In- 
 stead of lumbering up this book with what in fact belongs to ah epitome of navi- 
 gation, as has been the practice generally hitherto, he has confined himself, strictly 
 speaking, to only those subjects which would naturally occur to one as coming 
 under the head of seamanship— or, in other words, he has compiled literally " a 
 Sailor's Assistant." I confidently assert, I have never seen the same amount of 
 really useful and practical information in the same space adapted to our profes- 
 sion before. Here we find enumerated for the various classes of vessels, according 
 to their tonnage, the requisite number of anchors, cables, guns, carriages, shot, 
 &c., with their size, weight, and the comparative strength of the cables and rig- 
 ging both chain and hemp: also a variety of most useful intelligence, and which 
 must have been elicited only after considerable practical experiment— all ot the 
 most interesting as well as useful importance, not only to the novice, but the of- 
 ficer — the master — and I would even confidently add, that there is a great deal o*' 
 information contained in this work which would make it a valuable acquisition 
 to every ship-owner's counting-room. There is nothing put on board the various 
 classes of ships, but is described in the book, first to tell how it is made, aiid how 
 it is rigged — ^how it is taken on board (if heavy) — its weight, and the amount 
 allowed according to the length of the cruise. Nothinf is omitted. I conceive 
 that every ship-owner would find it an acquisition as a counting-house compan- 
 ion, as well as a "Young Sailor's Assistant." His recipes, which I find at the 
 termination of the book, are not without their value ; and although simple in 
 themselves, yet not generally known. 
 
 I cannot close without saying a few words in relation to the very judicious re- 
 marks he has made under the head of " good order " (merchant service) and 
 cleanliness. It is undeniable that temperance and cleanliness would add much to 
 the health, comfort, and good order of a crew; but it must be allowed that com- 
 paratively little has been done for the sailor — much more must be done before he 
 will be made to realize the terrible efiects of intemperance and licentiousness 
 upon both body and soul, for tiiiie and eternity. It is cheering to see that spirits 
 have been banished from the list of small stores on board of respectable Amer- 
 ican ships: and we can but hope that, ere long, through the influence of the efforts 
 that are being made, especially for seamen, among several denominations of 
 Christians in this city — by their building handsome churches on shore and afloat 
 
 splendid Homes which are made to them homes indeed when they resort tc 
 
 tlienj by their donations of books and libraries adapted to their characters and 
 
 profession— that a few years will see them a different and vastly improved 
 class of men. Already do we begin to see the influence of the leaven that has 
 been cast among them, which leads us to the conviction that there is a better 
 
39G OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 time coming for lAe sailor; and we cannot tut hope and trust thai all ranks Jl 
 Christians will be diligent in prayer to God that " the abundance of the sea may 
 be speedily converted unto him." Finally, with the author I also think it entirely 
 unnecessary for him to offer any apology in sending this work abroad to the pub- 
 lic. If I may be allowed to offer an opinion on the merits of the composition or 
 its style, I must say I have come to the conclusion. In the absence of any othei 
 guide but this book, being an utter stranger to the author, that he is — he must be 
 — a seaman — a scholar — and a gentleman. I observe he professes, as his motto, 
 " Hope for his anchor, and Heaven for his guide," and I fervently pray that nei- 
 ther the one nor the other may ever fail him. 
 
 From the Literary "World. 
 
 The Kedge Anchor ; or. Young Sailor's Assistant. By Wm. Brady, Sailmg 
 Master, V. S. N. Published by the Author. 
 
 Nowadays, when all science, arts, and callings are delineated in bonks, and the 
 pen is wielded by members of every profession, it is no marvel that an excellently 
 planned work, upon all things pertaining to seamanship, should be presented to 
 the public by a gentleman of the marline-spike. And albeit the author tells us 
 that that instrument is to him more familiar than the pen, he has, nevertheless, 
 shown himself quite expert with the latter. 
 
 " The Kedge Anchor " (a happy title, at least to Jack) has already run through 
 one edition, which, for a purely practical work, is the best evidence of its merits. 
 The present edition is, in many respects, an improvement upon the former, con- 
 taining additional matter, plates and tables. To a sailor this work is invalua- 
 ble ; indeed, it is by far the best of the sort we ever remember to have seen. Gen- 
 erally, works of this descriplion are loosely and carelessly put together ; to use a 
 nautical phrase, they are by no means " ship-shape and Bristol fashion," and, in 
 many cases, are mere servile copies, or abridgments of obsolete books on the 
 same subject. The sailor-poet's (Falconer) Marine Dictionary, published many 
 years ago, has been the source from which most of them have been compiled. 
 But in seamanship, as in everything else, great improvements and changes have, 
 from time to time, been effected, and Mr. Brady's volume contains them all. We 
 cordially commend his book to all the purchasers of Bqwditch's Navigation ; and 
 we will futhermore guaranty that he who masters both, will be fully qualified to 
 conduct a vessel round the globe with unerring certainty — enter a harbor as un- 
 exceptionably and gracefully as ever Brummel did a drawing-room, and cockbill 
 iiis yards at a symmetrical angle. 
 
 Not only to seamen, but to many landsmen, the " Kedge Anchor " cannot fail 
 to be an acceptable volume. Its copious dictionary of sea terms, its excellent 
 illustrations of nautical manoeuvres and the information imparted upon all things 
 pertaining to the construction, rig, and appointment of the ships in our navy, 
 make the book truly valuable. From the " gammoning " of a bowsjirit, and the 
 staying of a royal-mast, to the taking of a " bowline-in-the-bight," the student in 
 ter will find all the information he can desire. 
 
 The book is well got up, contains numerous well-executed cuts, and is alike 
 
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 397 
 
 creditable to author and publishei. We specially commend it to the rnembers oi 
 the Yacht Club, as a vadu mecum for blue water. 
 
 Pram the New York Juumal of Commerce. 
 The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By William Brady, 
 S. M., U. S. N. 
 
 This work, as its title imports, is designed as an assistai;: for the young Sailor, 
 through the various branches of his arduous profession. It contains useful in- 
 structions in every department of seamanship, with ample directions, which will 
 impart to the young officer a great deal of valuable information in the duties of 
 his profession, and enable him to act in the most judicious manner in many try 
 ing emergencies. 
 
 In addition to many suggestions, which will prove valuable to every grade ol 
 seamen, it contains more thorough descriptions of the innumerable articles belong- 
 ing to the various classes of vessels, than any other work ever published in this 
 country; and is embellished with over seventy engravings, in illustration of the 
 subjects treated of in its pages. The work is furnished with over one hundred 
 pages of tables, which are valuable not only to the sea-faring man, but to all who 
 are in any way interested in maritime pursuits. The entire work is contained in.a 
 volume of 420 pages, octavo, stereotype edition. It is printed on fine paper, and 
 bound in handsome style. For sale by R. L. Shaw, No. 222 Water street, N. Y. 
 
 From the True Sun. 
 The Kedge Anchor ; or. Young Sailor's Assistant. 
 We have had for several days lying on our table a massive octavo volume of 
 some 420 pages, of which we have given the title. The author of it is William 
 Brady, S. M., U. S. N., and it is on sale at the Sailor's Home, and by most of the 
 nautical stationers. The whole science of seamanship appears to be included in 
 this fine volume, from the coiling of a rope to the dissection of a man-of-war and 
 every nautical appendage thereof. No jot or tittle of a seaman's duty appears to 
 have been overlooked; everything is explained, and the most intricate things 
 illustrated by engravings. The entire typographical execution and material of the 
 volume are excellent; we do not find the price attached to it; but to the seaman 
 —to the young seaman particularly— it must be invaluable. 
 
 From the New Yorlc Courier & Enquirer. 
 The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailor's Assistant, <^c., <f-c., illnslrated wilk 
 
 seventy engravings. By Wm. Brady, S. M., U. S. N. 2d edUion, enlarged and 
 improved. New York. 
 
 This is a handsome and no doubt a useful handbook for the young sailor or 
 officer, expLainiag as it does, and illustrating by handsome cuts the various ma- 
 nipulations of the Sailor's craft. 
 
 The instruction comprehends the whole of the duties of the sailor, as well as 
 regards the practical evolutions of the vessel, as the various details connected 
 with rigging the vessel. 
 
3^8 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 'The volume has already gone through one eaition, which is presumptive evi« 
 dence of its merits — and we dare say there will be ample demand for this second 
 edition. 
 
 From the Long Island Star. 
 The Kedge.Anchorj or, Young Sailor's Assistant. 
 
 We have just received the second edition of a very neat work, entitled " The 
 Kedffe Anchor," improved and enlarged, with additional matter, plates, and tables, 
 by Mr. "William Brady, and dedicated to the United States Navy and Merchant 
 Service. 
 
 It is very neatly bound and good print, and is intended to instruct " Young Sea- 
 men" in rigging, knotting, splicing, blocks, purchases, and other misce]lane,ous 
 matter applicable to vessels and ships of war. It is illustrated with seventy 
 engravings, also a great number of Tables useful to seamen. It is also printed on 
 beautiful paper, and it instructs you to build vessels of war. 
 
 Published at New York by Mr. Wm. Brady, and sold at R. L. Shaw's Nautical 
 Store, 3^2 Water street, N. Y. 
 
 It is octavo size, 420 pages, and handsomely illustrated with fine wood-cuts, 
 representing many of the most beautifully modeled vessels in the U. S. Navy. It 
 is a.work.of.jiiuch labor and expense, and should be in the possession of every 
 seaman, more especially those of the Navy. A copy of the work may be seen at 
 this office. 
 
 From the New York Sunday Dispatch. 
 The Kedge Anchor ; or, Yoong Sailor's Assistant. 
 
 The extraordinary demand for the above meritorious work has, in a very shor 
 time, exhausted the first edition. 
 
 The author, William Brady, a sailing master in the United States Navy, has 
 published a second edition, with additional tables and somewhat improved ir 
 typographical beauty. It is useless for us to speak of its merits as a text-book foj 
 the young officer. It is most emphatically a work of great merit, and one whict 
 will commend itself to all classes whose " march is o'er the mountain wave.'' 
 The remarks it contains on that invaluable instrument the Barometer, are correct; 
 and will do much to destroy the unfounded prejudice which some have against it 
 
 The volume contains a great number of plates, neatly executed, which serve tc 
 illustrate with precision a variety of nautical evolutions. The precautions for 
 scudding are worthy of attention. It is a well-known fact among sailors that many 
 la good ship has been boarded by a sea, while scudding under s!iort sail, when the 
 disaster might easily have been avoided by showing more canvas. The work 
 contains all the tables necessary for sparring and rigging a ship, and that in sc 
 plain and practical a manner that we cannot see how it is possible for any one to 
 make a mistake; on the whole, we are inclined to think, that, though the author 
 modestly calls it a Kedge Anchor, there is many an old salt who will look upon i 
 as his best bower. 
 
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 399 
 
 From the New York Express. 
 The Kedge Anchor. By William Brady, U. S. N. 
 This is the title ot a very handsome volume, professing u. give thorough de- 
 Bcnptions of the almost innumerable equipments belonging to the various classes 
 of vessels. We are n.n " oM salt " enough to speak as to the accuracy of its 
 teachings, but it seems to be very complete and intelligible, and is illustrated with 
 drawings of more ways of doing things than any but a sailor would ever dream of 
 
 From the New York Tribune. 
 The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By William Brady, S. 
 M., U. S. N. New York : R. L. Shaw, 223 Water St., 1 vol. 8vo., pp. 420, with 
 numerous engravings. 
 
 This work, as its title imports, is designed as an assistant for the yoimg Sailor 
 through the various branches of his arduous profession. It contains uselui in- 
 structions in every department of seamanship, with ample directions, which will 
 imparl to the young officer a great deal of valuable information in the duties of 
 his profession, and enable him to act in the most judicious manner in many trying 
 emergencies. 
 
 In addition to many suggestions, which will prove valuable to every grade of 
 seamen, it contains more thorough descriptions of the innumerable articles be- 
 longing to the various classes of vessels than any other work ever published in 
 this country ; and is embellished with over seventy engravings in illustration of 
 the subjects treated of in its pages. The work is furnished with over one hun- 
 died pages of tables, which are valuable not only to the seafaring man but to all 
 who are in any way interested in maritime pursuits. The entire work is con- 
 tained in a volume of 420 pages, octavo stereotype edition. It is printed on fine 
 paper and bound in handsome style. 
 
 From the Brooklyo Doily Advertiser. 
 The Kedge Anchor ; or. Young Sailor's Assistant — is the title of a work just 
 published by William Brady, Sailing Master in the U. S. Navy. Mr. Brady is 
 a thorough seaman and eminently qualified to the task he has here undertaken. 
 Every information is given appertaining to the practical evolutions of modern 
 seamanship-rigging, knotting, splicing, blocks, purchases, running rigging, and 
 other miscellaneous matters, applicable to ships of war and others. Illustrated 
 with several engravings. Also tables of rigging, spars, sails, blocks, canvas, 
 cordage chain and hemp-cables, hawsers, &c., relative to every class of vessels. 
 To those who are about to become sailors, the Kedge Anchor is invaluable ; and 
 those who have followed the sea, no matter how long, may derive information 
 therefrom. It should be on board every vessel and in every library, as much may 
 be found to interest even the landsman. The work meets the approval of the 
 most able commanders in the merchant and naval service. The author is now 
 attached to the Brooklyn Navy Yard, holding the appointment of Sailing Master, 
 and is known as one of the best practiced seamen in the navy. 
 
400 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 Prom the New York Sun. 
 The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant, by Wm. Brady, of Ihe 
 U. S. Navy, is the most unique and useful book for young seamen we have any 
 knowledge of. Published by the author. 
 
 From the Xew York Hcmld. 
 The Kedge Anchor ; or. Young Sailor's Assistant. By Wm. BisAiiY, S. M., 
 U. S. N., second edition. R. L. Shaw, 222 Water street. This is decidedly the 
 best work for the maritime community, and the best adapted to convey perfect 
 instruction to all who desire to learn the profession of seamanship, that we have 
 ever seen. It has reached a second edition, and deserves to react twenty, as it no 
 doubt will. We shall have more to say respecting this valuable work ; and in 
 tae mean time it should find a place in every library and on board every ship.