*1? IM M /#^^^, Or 190^-7 QJotttcll Mtttoerattg Htbrarg 3ltl(aca, Neto ^ark ROLLIN ARTHUR HARRIS MATHEMATICAL LIBRARY THE GIFT OF EMILY DOTY HARRIS 1919 The date shows when this volume was tak«n. To renew this book copy tlie call No. and give to tke librarian. HOME USE RULES j^^TaT '' ' All books subject to recall All borrowers must regis- ter in the library to borrow books for home use. All books mttst be re- turned at end of college year for inspection and repairs. Limited books mu6t be returned within the four week limit and not renewed. Students must return all books before leaving town. Officers should arrange for the return of books wanted during their absence from town. Volumes of periodicals and of pamphlets are held in the library as much as possible. For special pur- poses they are given out for a limited time. Borrowers should not use their library privileges for the benefit of other persona. B ooks oi special value and gift books, when the giver wishes it, are not allowed to circulate. Readers are asked to re- «'^ port all cases of books marked or mutilated. Bo not deface books hy marks and writixtc. ^ Cornell University Library G670 1906 .C21 ''^^ffmiiiUmii.!^? Dominion government expedi Clin 3 1924 029 882 473 Overs I Cornell University y Library The original of tiiis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924029882473 REPORT DOMINION GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION ARCTIC ISLANDS AND THE HUDSi STRAIT ON BOARD THE C. G. S. "ARCTIC" 1906- 190T CAPTAIN J. E. IJKRNIER, Officer in Charge and Fishery Officer. OTTAWA PRINTED BY C. H. PARMELEE, PRINTER TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY 1909 4167—1 Vi '^ ^.V M'lU cJ '-f. *^, CONTENTS Page. Report of Captain J. E. Bernicr to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries .T OiBcers and Crew fi Terms used in ice navigation 7 Dimensions of steamer Arctic 8 CHAPTER I. Introductory — Beginning of voyage from Quebec — Collision of Arctic with Norwegian steamer Elina — Arctic resuming voyage — Arrival at Chateau Bay, Labrador — Meet- ing with first iceberg — Highlands of Greenland — Steaming along coast of Greenland — Passing Disko Island — Icebergs in sight — Forced to make fast to ice — Later found waters navigable — Making headway through ice — Passing Bylot Island and shaping course to Lancaster Sound— Arrival at Wollaston Islands at entrance to Navy Board Inlet — Eclipse Sound — Arrival at Albert Harbour — Crew caught ninety salmon . . . . CHAPTER II. Voyage from Albert Harbour to Melville Islands — Annexing Bylot Island and raising Canadian flag — Provisions left — Found document relating to taking possession of Whaler Point by A. P. Low, also copies of document of Danish expedition in the Gjoa — Annexing Griffith Island — Barrow Strait — Annexing Cornwallis Island — Finding copies of records left by Lieut. McClintock when searching for Sir John Franklin — Taking possession of Byam Martin Island for Canada — Naming of certain points of land — Finding cache left by the Gjoa — Byam Martin Channel clear of ice on the 29th August — Taking possession of Melville Island, Prince Patrick Island, Eglinton Island — No snow on Melville Island 12 CHAPTER III. Raising Dominion flag on Lowther Island in Barrow Strait — Immense field of ice on Prince of Wales Island — In Erebus Bay — Landing at Beechy Island — Finding of headstone commemorating death of three men who belonged to the Sir .John Franklin Expedition — Restoring of marble tablet in commemoration of Sir John Franklin — Raising of yacht Mary left by Sir John Ross in 1852 at Beechy Island — Entering Admiralty Inlet — Returning to Albert Harbour, Ponds Inlet 20 CHAPTER IV. Wintering in Albert Harbour, Ponds Inlet — Daily records of weather — Extracting bullet from a native who was wilfully shot by another native — Valuable information respecting Harbour in Baffin Land— Salmon plentiful in Salmon River, Milne Harbour — Deer plentiful in summer — Directions for sailing from Milne Sound along the coast to Blacklead Harbour, Cumberland Gulf — Mica at Niantilik Harbour— Depth of ice m Albert Harbour 27 4167— IJ IV . CliUlSK OF THE ARCTIC Page. CHAPTER V. Visits of natives — Preparing sledges for an exploring trip inland— Searching for one of the crew who had lost his way — Death and burial of F. Brokenhanser, an oiler on board Arctic — Five hundred fine salmon from Salmon River caught in one day — Depth of ice during winter in Albert Harbour — Anchorage in Albert and Erik Harbours — 160 natives living at Dundee whaling station, Albert Harbour and Bylot Island — Natives hunt for deer and fish salmon in the spring and pursue sealing during winter — Ivory from narwhales — Number of natives in Hudson Bay —Hudson Strait and Baffin Laud 39 CHAPTEl? VI. Leaving Albert Harbour 27th July, 1907 — Took possession of Cobourg Island in Jones Sound — Reached Lat. 76° 02', Long. 80° 10' W., Jones Sound — Ice covered with seals — Proclamation claiming North Lincoln Land, King Oscars Land and adjacent islands, Grunnell Land, Ellesmere Land, Arthur Land. Grant Land and other lauds and islands as part of the Dominion of Canada — Arrival at Black Lead Harbour — Crossing Hudson Strait 47 CHAPTER VIT. Work at Port Burwell — Extract from the report of the Governor of Newfoundland regarding Port Burwell and vicinity — Temperature observations at Port Burwell — Port Burwell in Canadian territory — Moravian Missionaries at Port Burwell.. .. 53 CHAPTER VIII. Voyage from Port Burwell to Quebec — Crossing Hudson Strait to Resolute Island — No ice in sight in the Strait on October 5th — Daily progress of the Arctic towards Quebec 69 CHAPTER IX. Fisheries — Whales— Narwhales — Walruses — Seals — Herring — Codfish — Salmon Trout — List of Whaling Licenses — Statement of number of vessels and number of whales captured between 1865-1907 — Catch of whales in 1907 — Whaling industry by American Whalers in Hudson Bay and Cumberland Gulf — Vessels lost in whale fishery during last thirty years 71 Appendix 1 Fullerton ice formation 77 ' 2 Albert Harbour ice formation 78 3 Abstract of Meteorological Journal 79 1 Meteorological observations at Ivilliuck, Port Burwell 95 5 ■• " Hebron in 1891 96 6 Rock and Mineral specimens collected 98 7 List of articles collected from different places in Hudson Strait and Arctic Regions, 1906-7 99 8 Orders and regulations issued on board Arctic 100 9 Information respecting Labradoi- coast 102 9 " ■■ Port Burwell 103 9 Hudson Bay route time of closing and conclusions of the result of observa- tions made and facts collected 101 9 Daily rations issued to members of the crew 106 9 List of photographs taken by Mr. Lancefield, Photographer 106 9 Meteorological tables 110 9 Discoveries of coal and coal seams 112 ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Hon. Louis riiilippo Biodeur, Minister of Marino and Fisheries 2 Captain J. E. Bernier, Commander of Hudson Bay and Arctic Island Expedition.. .. 2 Steamship Arctic on blocks at Quebec, stern 10 bo«- 10 View of Navy Board Inlet 10 Bylot Island 10 Barrow Strait ice 10 Canada Point, Bylot I>laud 12 Cache. Port Leopold Hi Griffith Island Ui Byam Martin Island Iti Cockburn Point, Bathurst Island, lOOii Ui Dobell's Point, Griffith's Island, 190U l(i East side of Admiralty Inlet, September 2, 190H Ui Island entrance to Arctic Bay 10 Ivekerton Peak Ui Cairn on Gourdeau's Point on Lowrhei s Island 20 Cape Walker, Kussel Island, 1906 20 Arctic in Erebus Bay during a storm, September, 1900 24 Sir .Tohn Franklin's memorial tablet as found September, 1900 24 left, September, 1900 24 Cape Lord Strathcona 24 Yeoman's Island 24 Brodeur Peninsula 24 Male Bear killed at entrance to .\dniivalty Inlet 24 High land, Albert Harbour 28 Cameron's schooner in winter quarters 2S Ice jam, Albert Harbour, October, 1900 28 Xorthwest entrance of Albert Harbour 28 King's Birthday celebration, November 9, 1900. Baffin Land Possession 28 Fred. Brokenhauser's burial until spring 40 funeral, 1907 40 Bottom part of Erick Harbour 40 Keception from EsquiTuaux at Button Point, Pond^ Inlet 40 Esquimaux drawing boats over ice 40 Whaling boat leaving for Button Point 42 Arctic in Albert Harbour, ready for sea, .Tune, 1907 42 Edwards Point, Coburgli Island 48 Ice pack, Cumberland Sound 52 Blacklead Harbour .i2 Coast near Blacklead 52 Port Burwell, outer harbour 52 inner harbour 52 Natives, Port Burwell 52 Missionary group and officers of .4ri//c 52 The northern part of Baffin Land 52 Erick Harbour, north part of Baffin Land 52 Hon. Louis-Philu'fk Broheuh, Ministkk ok Marine and Fisheries. .1. E. Bernieh. Ottawa, October 18, 1907. Hon. Louis-Philippe Brodeur, M.P., Minister of Marine and Fisheries. Sir, — I have the honour to respectfully submit herewith my report on the expedi- tion to the Arctic regions in the Canadian govermnent steamship Arctic; to which, on your kind recommendation, I was appointed officer in charge by a commission authorized under an order in council of July 30, 1906. I beg also to add thereto a report of the duties I have performed in conformity with my appointment as a fishery officer by commission authorized under an order in council of July 30, 1906. In accordance with the instructions contained in the above mentioned com- missions I proceeded northward, Avith a view of asserting Canadian sovereignty in the Arctic regions which are territory of this Dominion by right of cession made to Canada by the Imperial government. I have great pleasure in mentioning that with the valuable assistance of the officers and crew who accompanied the expedition we were able to successfully cruise in the following waters : Davis Strait, Baffin Bay, ISTavy Board, Admiralty Inlet, Prince Regent Inlet, Lancaster Sound, Barrow Strait, Melville Sound, Lady Ann Strait and other Arctic regions. Permit me to here acknowledge the kindly and valuable assistance afforded me by Col. F. Gourdeau, Deputy Minister of Marine and Fisheries, by Commander O. G. V. Spain, and by all the officers of the department at Ottawa, Sorel and Quebec, with whom it was my duty and privilege to work. It is also my pleasure to mention the valuable help given me by Mr. James White, geographer, Mr. Bell, geologist and Mr. 0. O. Senecal, of the Geological Bureau. I have the honour to be, sir. Your humble servant, J, E. BEKNIEE. C. FITZPATRICK, ] 23-7-06. } Deputy Governor of Canada. J CANADA. Edward the Seventh, by the Grace of God of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Dominions beyond the Seas, King, Defender of the Baith, Emperor of India. To C.iPTAix Joseph Elzilar Berxier, of the City of Ottawa, in the Brovinee of Ontario, in Our Dominion of Canada, — Greeting : K' Acting Deputy Minister of Justice, >-xV in your loyalty, integrity and ability, We Canada. J have constituted and appointed, and We do hereby constitute and appoint you the said Joseph Elzijar Bernier, to be a Fishery Officer under the Bisheries Act and any Act in amendment thereof and under the Act intituled ' An Act Respecting Fishing by Foreign Vessels.' To have, hold, exercise and enjoy the said office of a Fishery Officer, unto you the said Joseph Elze.ar Bernier, with all and every the powers, rights, authority, privileges, emoluments and advantages unto the said office of right and by law appertaining during pleasure, and with full power and authority to exercise the functions, powers and jurisdiction of a Justice of the Feace for the purposes of the said Acts or any of them, and of any regulations made or continued thereunder or in respect thereto. In Testimony Whereof, We have caused these Our Letters to be made Batent, and the Great Seal of Canada to be hereunto affixed. Witness, The Honourable Charles Fitzpatrick, Deputy of Our Right Trusty and Right Well-beloved Cousin the Right Honourable Sir Albert Henry George, Earl Grey, Viscount Howick, Baron Grey of Howick, in the County of Northumberland, in the Beerage of the United Kingdom, and a Baronet, Knight Grand Cross of Our Most Distinguished Order of Saint Michael and Saint George, &c., &c., Governor General of Canada. At Our Government House, in Our City of Ottawa, this Twenty-third day of July, in the year of Our Lord One thousand nine hundred and six, and in the sixth year of Our reign. By Command, F. COLSON, Acfing Under-Secretary of State. SHIP'S COMPANY. OFFICERS. Captain J. Elzear Bernier, Commander. George Hayes, Chief Officer. O. Jules Morin, 2nd Officer. Charles W. Green, 3rd Officer. Joseph R. Pepin, Doctor. Fabien Vanasse, Historian. James Duncan, Customs House Officer. George E. Lancefield, Photographer. W. H. Weeks, Purser. CREW. John Van Koenig, Chief Engineer. Emile Bolduc, 2nd Engineer. Ernest Croteau, Electrician. Paul Mercier, Oiler. F. Brockenhenser, Oiler. Louis Bernier, Fireman. Ulric Begin, Fireman. Ernest Lahaie, Fireman. Joseph Thibault, Chief Cook. Louis Beaulieu, 2nd Cook. Paul Levasseur, Chief Steward. Napoleon Stremenski, Ass't Steward. Harry Charron, Waiter. Alexandre Patenaude, Waiter. Herve Perron, Waiter. Jyouis Jeffrey, Boy. Michael Ryan, Carpenter. William Ross, Boatswain. Benjamin Taverner, Boatswain's Mate. Joseph Lessard, Quarter-Master. Napoleon Chasse, Quarter-Master. J. A. Simpson, Customs House Clerk. Thomas Doyle, A.B. William Coady, A.B. Sylvester Cain, A.B. Ruben Pike, A.B. Thomas Fraize, A.B. James Flearn, A.B. Richard Barron, A.B. James Ryan, A.B. George A. Bodeker, A.B. Joseph Goulet, Laundryman. LIST OF SOME OF THE TERMS USED IN ICE NAVIGATION BY WHALEES, SEALERS AND OTHERS. Floe A large mass of floating ie«. Pau A small floe or small piece ; one that can be foiced aside or slewed. A field A large body of ice that may be seen around. Land flo€ Ice frozen fast to the shore. Packed ice Are small pieces closed together and held by the pressure of ice and currents. I b'ink Is a peculiar pale yellow reflection on the sky ; indicating the presence of ice at a distance. The ice pack Is that large body of solid ioe extending across the whole sea and beyond which it is im- possible to advance. Slack ice Is detached, so that it can be worked through. Ice lis said to be slacking when it begins to be open so as to be navigable. Running abroad Ice is rsaid to be running abroad when it opens out or slacks away so as to be navig- able. A nip Ice is said to be nipping when it begins to close by reason of the action of winds or currents, so as to prevent the passage of a vessel. Calving Ice is calving when the small pieces break off from the bottom and rise to the surface of the water. A lead Is a strip of navigable water opening into the pack. A blind lead, a pocket Is a short opening into the pack and terminat- ing against solid or thick dee. Hum.mocky ice Is rough, uneven or thick ice. Porridge ice Is small, finely ground up ice. Slob Is snow afloat and forming into ice. Sish Is thin new ioe just formed in thin sheets. Lolly Is loose new ice. Waking Is the following in the wake of another vessel through leads and slack ice. Backing, running or butting Is backing off and running the ship at ice in order to force or head a way through it. Slewing Is forcing the vessel ahead against the corner of a piece of ice, with the intention of caus- ing it to slew or swing out of the way, so as to iforce a passage by it. Tracking Is following along the edge of the ice pack. Water sky Is a dark or bluish appearance of the sky indi- cating open water beyond the pack. Slatches Are considerable pools of open water in the ice. Swatch Is a small pool of open water in the ice. Swatching Watching for seals around a swatch. Wash Is the sound of the sea breaking against ice. Rote Newfoundland term for wash. Rafting Occurs when two pans meet with force either by the action of the winds or currents — the edges are broken off and either rise on top of or pass under the body of the pans. Pressure ridge Is the ridge or wall thrown up while the ice is rafted. Growler Is a more or less washed and grounded lump of ice which rolls about in the water, formed from broken up bergs or detached pieces of heavy old arctic floe ice. Decker Rafter at a pressure ridge (Newfoundland). Black sheet Is thin dark looking ice with no snow on it; usually found between pans of older ice. At might or at a distance looks like open water. Collar ice Is the margin of ice frozen fast to an island or shore, presenting an abrupt wall against which the floating ice rises and falls with the tide. Beset Inclosed on all sides by the ice. 1 PARTICULARS AND DIMENSIONS OF THE O.O.S. ARCTIC TAKEN FROM THE CERTIFICATE OF REGISTRY. Clasx. — Highest of Oonimnic Lloyil. Material. — Best dry oak and piteh-])liii> woods. When and Where Built. — 1900-1, at the llowaldt's Ship Ynrch in Kiel, Germany. Register Tonnage. — Gross 650 tons, not 436 tons. Capacity (Inchiding Bunkem). — Two hunkers are on eaeh side of tlie engine-room, and the main hold, amidship and aft in the decks between, holding in all 400 tons. Length. — 165-4 feet. Main Outside Breadth. — 3T-2 feet. Side Depth from Inner Edge to Upper Deck Beam. — 22 feet. Deck, Upper Deck and a 'Tween Deck. Water Ballast Equipment. Depth Laden. — 22 feet. Depth Empty. — 13-3 feet. Water Gates. — Two steel water gates to close engine-room and hoiler-room. Hatches. — One on the fore deck. Three Mast Top-sail BcJiooner, Fore-mast Square, with. Special Ice Propi-llcrs. Auxiliary Engine Power. — Triple expansion engine with snrface <'ondensation, ind. h.p. 275. Boiler built 1900-1. Speed when Laden. — Seven knots in water; in iee, unknown. Steam. Cranes. — Two. Electric Light. — Good electric unit with engine attached, steam for engine from the main boiler. CliAPTER I. VOYAGE TO THE ARCTIC ISLANDS. The present report contains a narrative of the voj'age of the C.G.S. Arrlic, during the seasons 1906-7. to the Northern Arctic Islands and entrance of Hudson Strait. Following' this, under their respective headings, are short accounts of our trips, explorations, discoveries of inland waters, returns of our perception of whalers' licenses and Customs dues, and of our weather observations in Albert Harbour, Baffin Land : also a complete report of the annexations of Arctic Islands. The appendices contain the meteorological observations taken during the voyage of the Arctir; and the meteorological observations taken at Port Bnrwell, during one year, by the Rev. Mr. Waldmann. I have also added a detailed description of the different conditions and state of the ice while we wintered in the following places : Fullerton, Hiulson Bay, Albert Harbour, Baffin Land and vicinity. j This report is based largely upon knowledge obtained during the voyage, by the officers of the expedition; and this has been supplemented by information received from natives of those regions, and captains of the Scottish whalers who were in those waters at the different times of our cruises. The four captains we had the good fortune of meeting, and from whom we received information, were : Captains Much, Milne, Adams and Cooney, Comer. The accompan.ving map has been compiled bv the Department of Geological Survey and Mr. A. P. Low, B.Sc, P.R.G.S. All bearings are true north; for example, when we went into the Hudson Bay in 1904-5 our compasses pointed to the true north, while in Long. 91° 30' W. and Lat. 60° 42' X., while at Cape Cockbnrn, Bathurst Island, in Lat. 60° 42' N. Long. 91° 30' TV. ; the true north was due south, there being 180° variation. This will give an idea of the many different courses that had to be given during the voya.ge in order to maintain our true north. The illustrations in the text of this report are from photographs taken by Mr. George R. Lancefield, photographer accompanying the expedition. The Dominion Government decided to have the Steamer Arctic fitted out and repaired at the Government shipyard, Sorel, at the beginning of the season of naviga- tion of 1906. Having completed emb^rkment of stores, &c.. she was finally ready to leave on the 14th July. Her draught was 19' 10" aft. and 19' 4" forward, with 530 t(jns of coal on board; thus being in good trim and ready to commence her work through the ice. which she is expected to encounter before she reaches her station for the coming winter. Acknowledgment is made of the kindness Mr. De.sbarats, Superintendent of the Government Shipyard, Sorel, has shown to us during the preliminary preparations for the voyage, and for the able way in which he has contributed to the preparation of the Arctic. It is also with much pleasure that we beg to offer our thanks and express our appreciation of the services Mr. J. V. Gregory. I.S.O.. Agent of the ]\rarine and Fisheries. Quebec, has so kindly rendered us in the interest he has taken to insure that everything necessary f(n' the welfare and comfort of the crew was placed on board at Quebec, before our departure for a period of eighteen months. On the 14th July we received instructions to proceed to Quebec. We moved from the wharf and went into the stream, where we adjusted the ship's compasses and anchored outside of Sorel. in eight fathoms of water. 9 4167—2 10 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC At 3 a.m. Sunday, 15tli July, we got under way and ijroceeded down the river towards Quebec. There was a light fog, but it cleared up by 6 a.m. The day was fine and warm, and the progress was fair. At 12.45 a.m. the next day we arrived in Quebec harbour, and anchored abreast of the Government wharf, in l(i fathoms of water. Our riding lamps and watch were properly set. At 1.10 a.m., the same day, the Norwegian steamer Elina crossed our bow and broke our bowsprit, jib-boom and all the gear attached to it; the pilot in charge of this steamer had apparently miscalculated his position. Our lights were burning bright at the time, and the mate's watch was on deck. We lowered a boat and went to ascertain the name of the steamer. At 9 a.m. we reported the accident to the Agent of the Marine and Fisheries Department, at Quebec, and then to the same department at Ottawa, and orders were received from the Deputy Minister to have the repairs made at once. All the damage was repaired and we were again ready for sea on Saturday, 28th July. We left at 11 a.m. the same day, weather fine and clear. Sunday morning, 29th July, we were passing White Island. At 10 a.m. Dr. Pepin and I made the morning inspection all through the ship, to look into the general sanitary condition of the vessel ; everything was found to be in proper order. At 2.30 p.m. we landed the pilot at Father Point; as we did not receive the expected instructions on arrival at the above mentioned place, we anchored close to the gas buoy, in 8 fathoms of water. Monday, 30th July. Strong breeze from S.W., we received some mail for the shij)'s company. At 7 p.m. we hove anchor and proceeded towards Chateau Bay, Labrador, where we arrived on the mojning of August 3rd. We received our final orders from the Department of Marine and Fisheries; wo landed the ship's mail, and at 3 p.m. proceeded; the wind was very strong from the N.E., and our progress was' slow at the start, but the wind died during the night. The next day, Saturday, August 4th, w-e were blessed with fair wind; the ship was in good order and everything worked satisfactorily. We issued oil-skin boots and other clothing for the crew. The first iceberg was noticed during the evening. Sunday, 51h August. Strong breeze from S.W., and we were going towards Greenland to get out of the track of the numerous icebergs that were west of our course; they were im.mense floating icebergs, which were coming down from the north. On Wednesday, 8th August, we saw the high lands of Greenland. The wind had changed to a cold northeaster and we were mider fore and aft sails, to keep the boat steady and from rolling. Friday, 10th August. The wind veered to the S.W., we were still under sail, hut we were also using the steam power, and running along the coast of Greenland. It was a splendid sight to see this coast and the largo icebergs intervening. Saturday, 11th Augiist. Wind west, weather hazy. We met a fishing schooner ; it was well under the land. At 12 p.m. we passed the Arctic circle. Issued pilot cloth coats, underclothes, stockings and mittens to the men, as is customary in vessels sailing in Arctic regions. On Sunday. 12th August, wind from the southward, weather fine. We held our first church service on board; it was well attended by the members of the crew. At noon we passed Disko Island, and we shaped our course toward IST.iST.W. On the 13th August, the ice fields were in sight; we were sailing due north, parallel to the ice. At noon the sun was obscured and we could take no observa- tion. Several icebergs were in sight to the eastward of us; the ice was constantly visible around us. and we shaped our course to pa«s in the clear water between the numerous icebergs of all dimensions. Thursday, 14th August, wind from S. and accompanied with a thick fog, decreased the speed of the ship, and steered between the different icebergs. I was forced to remain on deck during twenty-four consecutive hours ; it was almost daylight during the entire time. We tried to go into the open ice to find in what state it was, and after having ascertained its thickness we were glad to follow along the edge on the outside and in fairly clear water, hut for a number of large icebergs, which did not interfere with our progress. August 15th, 1hick fog with S.E. wind, and we were forced to make fast to the ice into an opening -in the ice. We filled the fresh water tanks with good water from a pool. T ascertained during that time that the ice was in a navigable condition for the Arriir or any ship of her power. After our noon observation, which placed us in Y4° 42' IST. and fi3° W., I then proceeded Steamship "Arctic." 4167—2^ Steamship "Arcth'. y^ c AKCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 11 towards Lancaster Sound. On the 16th August, saw icebergs of immense proportions. From the ' crow's nest ' we saw Cape York, it was at a great distance. Weather was remarkably clear and calm. We made good headway through loose ice ; which ice appeared to be of the present year's formation. I then decided to push on to the westward. All the large leads are in the W.N.W. direction, which I was glad to follow. On the 17th August, the wind came from the S.W. ; it was accompanied with rain. We are going fairly well with all sails set and the engine stopped. We inspected all the boats on board, they are all ready to put overboard in case of need. Did not take observation that day. Our latitude by account was 7.3° 36' N. and Long. 76° W. During the afternoon we saw the Island of Bylot, and we shaped our course to Lancaster Sound; during the evening we passed Cape Liverpool, on Bylot Islands. During the night the fog set in and did not clear until the next day, when we made Wollaston Islands, and took a photo of these islands, at the entrance of Navy Board Inlet. We entered the Navy Board Inlet and jaursued our course towards Albert Harbour. In the middle of the strait very light ice was encountered, it appeared to be of last year's formation, and we kept going through it ; making different courses as the open- ings led us to. During the night and on Sunday morning we were in Eclipse Sound, and we kept on sounding near low land off Bylot Islands, it appeared to me to be a shallow point and dangerous to navigation. A ship passing this point would need to keep outside of two miles from this part of the land. On Siniday we arrived outside of Albert station, ilr. James Cameron, of the sloop Alheri, of Dundee, Scotland, came on board with his whaling boat. We proceeded to Salmon River, three miles westward of the station ; where we anchored in twenty fathoms of water. The next morning, as the weather was fine and clear, Mr. Cameron, some members of our crew in company with some natives, went fishing for salmon, and caught about ninety of these. Our photographer took many views of Bylot Islands and the surrounding country. I hired two natives at that place, and bought ten Eskimo dogs for our use during the voyage north. The natives names are Monkeyshaw and Cameo. After giving provisions for six months to the wives of the natives on board, and having learned that the whalers had not managed to get through the middle pack, we decided to send them notices and copy of the new law that had been passed with regard to whaling licenses. These letters were addressed to each of the captains of the whalers, and were given in care of ilr. Cameron, for distribution. I was led to believe that the fleet would be in Lancaster Sound, and I prepared to sail at once for this sound and Barrow Strait. 12 CEUISE OF THE ARCTIC CHAPTER II. VOYAGE FROM ALBERT HARBOUR TO JIELVILLE ISLAND. At 6 p.m., August 20th, we got ready to sail. Wind being- to the eastward, we set our sails and steered for Navy Board channel. We met a good deal of young ice, it appeared to be of this year's formation; we had to work our way through it, and we had to pass clear of an iceberg occasionally. At 8 a.m., August 21st, we passed the S.W. part of Bylot Island, which is the most dangerous part in the surroundings; we kept on sounding all the way through. At 11 a.m. we landed on the most western part of Bylot Island, to take possession of it. It has 'an area of 5,100 square miles. After landing we built a cairn and we hoisted the Canadian flag on top of it as a token of formal possession of this island and all the adjoining ones. The island has been discovered by Sir John Eoss, Commander of the SS. Isabella, during an expedition of 1818. Having inclosed a copy of the original document of formal possession of the island, in a bottle; and after having named the point ' Canada Point,' in honour of the first ship of the Canadian Marine Service, we deposited this bottle in the cairn on the said island. Lat. 73° 22' N., Long. 60° 50' W. We carved the name of the ship Arctic on one of the large stones of the cairn ; we then took a view of the place, and at 3 p.m. left the place. Copy of the original document deposited on the island: — Avgust 21st, 1906. This island, Bylot Island, was graciously given to the Dominion of Canada, by the Imperial Government in the year 1880, and being ordered to take possession of it in the name of Canada, know all men that on this day the Canadian Government Steamer Arctic, anchored here, and I planted the Canadian flag and took possession of Bylot Island in the name of Canada. We built a cairn to commemorate and locate this point, which we named Canada Point, after, and in honour of the first steamer belonging to the Canadian Navj'. Being- foggy no latitude was obtained. On the chart this point is located in Long. 80.50 west and 73.22 north Latitude. From here the Arctic will proceed onward through the Navy Board inlet, to the westward into Admiralty inlet, and from these westward to Port Leopold, where we will leave a record of our future work. Witnessed thereof under my hand this 21st day of August, 1906 A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of ITis Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. J. E. Berxier, Commanding Officer, hy Royal Commission. Fabiex Vaxasse, Historiographer. Joseph Raool Pepin, M.B. Jas. Dujjcan, Customs Officer. Winqate H. Weeks, Purser. Geo. E. Lancepield, Photographer. Weather was foggy, but "vve kept going on slowly in the direction of Lancaster Sound, which we entered during the night. On Wednesday, 22nd August, the wind changed to the N.lSr.W., and the weather cleared up. At 12 o'clock noon we sighted Cape Crawford, about eight miles distant. Very little ice in the Sound at present. I^B lAL^JL. o AECTIC ISLANDS AXD HUDSON STRAIT 13 During the afternoon we took provisions for three months, from the hold, with the intention of landing tlie same at Port Leopold. After passing Cape Crawford we noticed that our compasses were sluggish and we could not depend very much on them, especially in calm weather. There was a light fog until 4 a.m. on the 23rd of August when we sighted Leopold Island. At 8 a.m. we anchored in port Leopold, and landed on Whaler Point. There we found the ' Gjoa ' cache in very bad order; some of the boxes broken, and the tent that had been placed over the stores was blown away; this depot had been left here by Capt. Cooney, of the steamer Windward, 1904, for the use of Capt. Admundsen, in case his vessel should be- wrecked in the neighbourhood. We built a new shed to shelter these goods and some of the provisions which we landed from the Arctic. After having placed everything in order in the shed we took a photograph of the place, and hoisted the Canadian flag. The following is a list of the goods which compose this depot :— Pilot biscuits, 53 boxes lbs. 1,219 Salt pork, 3 barrels " 600 CofFee '* 400 Tea " 400 Salt beef " 200 'Creton' •' 100 riour " 200 Mutton and beef (tinned) " 936 Lard " 72 Petroleum oil, for stoves gallons 40 Molasses " 20 Sugar barrels 2 Methylated spirits gallon 1 Medical stores boxes 2 Hand lantern complete 1 Pemmican, 10 cases lbs. 600 Bovril fluid beef " 420 J. E. Beknier, Commander C.G.8. 'Arctic' ' WiNGATE H. Weeks, Purser. Proclamation. In the name of His Most Gracious Majesty, King Edward VII., and on behalf of the Government of the Dominion of Canada, I have, this day, taken possession of the Island of North Somerset, and of all the smaller islands adjoining it. And in token of such formal possession, I have caused the flag of the Dominion of Canada to be hoisted upon the land of North Somerset; and have deposited a copy of this document, in a sealed metal box, at Leopold Harbour, on the said island. A. P. Low, Officer in Charge of Dominion Expedition to Hudson Bay and Northward. On hoard Dominion Steamship ' Neptune.' Leopold Harbour, North Somerset, 16th August, 1904. The above is a reproduction of the document found on Whaler Point, in a sealed metal box which was in an old boiler abandoned on the shore by Sir James Eoss in 1848. Leaving everything on shore in good order we went on board. Got everything ready and proceeded towards the west along the land. The fog set in, but we kept our course all night. At 6 a.m., August 24th, we passed Cape Eennell; fog was lifting somewhat and we could see the land as far as Cape Bunny and Limestone 4167—3 14 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Island. At 11 a.m. we stopped against an immense field of ice, and we could not see any passage ahead of ns, from the crow's nest. Our intention was to take possession of Prince of Wales Island, but seeing no passage, we shaped our course towards Griffith's Island, which we reached at 5 p.m., 24th August. We landed on the extreme northeast point of this island at 6 p.m., and named the place ' E. R. Dobell,' in honour of the late Hon. Richard R. Dobell, in recognition of his help towards this expedition. We left a copy of a document, concerning the formal taking possession of the island, in a closed bottle, on the said island. The area of North Somerset Island is 9,000 square miles. Document found in an abandoned boiler on Whaler Point : — XORTHAVEST MOUNTED POLICE. To Agents in cliarge of Whaling and Trading Stations^ Masters of Whalers, &c., and all ivhom it may concern: NOTICE. A detachment of the Northwest Mounted Police has been sent into Hudson Bay for the purpose of maintaining law and order and enforcing the laws of Canada in the territories adjacent to the said Bay and to the north thereof. Headquarters have for the present been established at Fullerton. This has also been made a port of entry for vessels entering Pludson Bay and adjacent waters. All vessels will be required to report there and pay customs duties on dutiable goods before landing any portion of their cargoes on any place in the said territories. Duty imported into Canadian territories lying to the north of Hudson Bay will be collected for the present by a Canadian cruiser which will visit those waters annvially or more frequently. Any violation of the laws of Canada W'ill be dealt with by an officer of the police accompanying such cruiser. By order, J. D. MOODIE, Commissioner of Police for Hudson Bag and Territories to the North thereof. Fullerton is in N. Lat. 63° 59', W. Long. 89° 20'. August SJfth, 1906. Copy of document found on Whaler Point, Port Leopold, by the officers of the C.G.S. Arctic:— To the Leader of the ' Gjoa' Expedition: In the year 1902, the Danish Literary Greenland Expedition: Mylius Eviksen Rasmussen went (as is known) to the west coast of Greenland. In 1903 the Scotch whalers met this expedition in different circumstances. Having heard nothing from the ' Gjoa ' expedition, and thinking, therefore, that it had not started, or had had no use for the provisions, the whalers directed the Danish expedition to seek provisions at the depot of the ' Gjoa ' expedition, at Dalvynysle Rock. In case this should have been done the Danish Government, in March, 1904, has caused a helping depot to be laid down for the ' Gjoa ' expedition, by Mr. Ferguson, Dundee, and Captain Cooney, S.S. Windward, who have promised to bring this depot to the region through which the ' Gjoa ' expedition intended to pass, and lay down at Leopold Harbour, or nearest available land in this region. The depot contains : — 100 kilo pemmican, 40 per cent fat, in 4 wooden boxes. 700 " butter, in 32 wooden boxes. 500 " boiled ' Aeneri ' oats, in 10 wooden boxes. 800 " wheat flour, in 10 wooden boxes. 500 " dried cod, in 20 wooden boxes. 3 barrels petroleiim. 500 kilo bread, in 10 wooden boxes. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 15 (Note. — For want of space ou board there were: 10 cases of codfish, 5 cases of groats, 5 cases of wheat flour, left in Dundee. No petroleum was taken on board. Those stores were received ou board weight, quantity and contents unknown, and I land them in the same order. John Cooney, Master of S.S. Windward.) Information of this depot will be laid down, by other whalers, at suitable places in the district. To this moment there has been no news of the Danish literary expedi- tion, and it must be feared that the expedition is in want of help. It was last seen south of Cape York, and it is probable that it has wintered at this place. For this reason the Danish Government will try to make a Scotch whaler go to Cape York, and has offered a reward for bringing the members of the expedition back. CllRISTIANIA, NORW.^Y, March 23rd, 1904. (Signature as well as can be made out.) Sophus Sovrys. August SJttk, 1906. This island, Griffiths Island, was graciously given to the Dominion of Canada by the Imperial Government in the year 1880, and being ordered to take possession of it in the name of the Dominion of Canada, know all men, that on this day the Canadian Government Steamer Arctic's officers landed here, and I planted the Canadian flag and took possession of Griffiths Island in the name of Canada. Wo built a cairn to com- memorate and locate this point, which we named ' The Honourable Richard E. Dobell,' after and in honour of the Hon. Richard E. Dobell, for his work and help in claiming these northern islands. From here the Arctic will proceed to Sherringham Point, Cornwallis Island, where we will build another cairn, and take possession of Cornwallis Island. Witnessed thereof under my hand this 24th day of August, 1906 A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of His Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. J. E. Bermer, Commanding Officer. F.^BiEN Vanasse, Historiog rapher. Joseph Eaoul Pepin, M.D. Jas. Duncan, Customs Officer. WiNGATE H. Weeks, Purser. Geo. E. Lancefield, Photographer. George Hayes, Chief Mate. O. J. MoRiN, 2nd Mate. Michael Ryan, Carpenter. We took a photograph of the place and went on board the steamer. We shaped our course for Sherringham Point, on Cornwallis Island. After reaching those islands we anchored close by and landed. Wo built a cairn and hoisted the Canadian flag on the said Cornwallis Island, and took possession of it and all the adjoining islands on behalf of the Government of the Dominion of Canada, and deposited a copy of the document of formal taking of possession of the said island, which, is printed hereunder. The area is 2,700 square miles. August QJ^th, 1906. This Island Cornwallis, was graciously given to the Dominion of Canada, by the Imperial Government in the year 1880, and being ordered to take possession of it in the name of the Dominion of Canada know all men that on this day the Canadian Government Steamer Arctic landed here, and I planted the Canadian flag and took possession of Cornwallis Island in the name of Canada. We built a cairn on Shen-ingham Point, in which was left a copy of this record. From here the Arctic will proceed westward to Cockburn Point on Bathurst Island, calling on the way, if possible, at Lowthcr Island, where we will take possession. 4167— 3A 16 CRUISE OF THE AECTIC Witnessed thereof imder my hand this 24th day of August, 1906 A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of His Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. J. E. Bernjer, Commanding Officer. Fabien Vanasse, Historiographer. Joseph Eaoul Pepix, B'I.D. Jas. Duncan, Customs Officer. Geo. R. Lancefield, Photographer. John VanKoenig, Chief Eng. WiNGATE H. Weeks, Purser. George IIayes, Chief Mate. Michael Eyan, Carpenter. We left Sherringdon Point for Cockburn Point on Bathurst Island. We took several soundings during the night, and we steered Isetween Browne and Sommerville Islands, and crossed Macdougall Bay. On Saturday, 25th August, at 8 a.m. we encountered heavy ice; went into this ice, pushed our way towards Point Cockburn, but at 10 a.m. the ice closed in on us, and we were beset. The wind increased from the eastward; we drifted along to the westward with the ice. At 2 p.m. we saw a bear, which paid a visit to His Majesty's ship the Arctic. The 2nd Officer, O. J. Morin, and two natives went over on the ice to capture the animal, but the ice was in a very bad condition, and I am sorry to say, that after wounding the bear, he succeeded in escaping us, as we could not follow him on account of the large openings in the ice. We took several soundings during the day, and found 50 fathoms with a muddy bottom. The ship drifted to the westward at the speed of about a half mile per hour. Sunday, August 26. Wind N.E., light breeze. We took soundings in 38 fathoms of -water. Lat. 74° 53' N., Long. 99° 10' W. We were still ice-bound and drifting to the west. The natives on board shot a seal, but he sank before we could get at him. Monday, August 27th. Weather clear and fine, easterly breeze, light. Ice is more loose to-day. We got up steam and started ahead towards Cockburn Point. On the 28th of August we landed on the above m-entioned point, and took possession of Bathurst Island and all other islands adjoining it. We built a cairn and hoisted the Canadian flag over it. We left a copy of the document of the possession of this place. While some members of the party were building the cairn, other members who were searching on the point, found three copies of records in sealed metal boxes, which had been left there by Lieut. McClintock, M. Walter May, Lieut, of Assistance, Capt. A. B. Belcher and A. B. Bradford, surgeon. The records read as follows : — The area of Bathurst Island is 7,000 square miles. Deposited by a party under command of Lieutenant McClintock, proceeding in search of Sir John Franklin Expedition from Resolute, Assistance, steamers and Intrepid. Left at winter quarters between Griffith's Island and Comwallis Island; at the latter. Expedition under Sir John Ross and Captain Penny; provisions and boat Port Leopold, small depot and boat, Cape Spencer, 25th June, 1851. Party all well. Lieut. McClintock. Resumed work, placed everything in order, deposited the document of possession in the cairn and left the point. The following is a reproduction of the document concerning the taking of formal possession of Bathurst Island: — August 2Sth, 1906. This island, Bathurst Island, and all islands adjacent to it, was graciously given to the Dominion of Canada by the Imperial Government, in the year 1880, and being ordered to take possession of the same, in the name of the Dominion of Canada know o O Q6SBiT^''^*"rDSM Dobell's Point, Griffith's Island, 1906. < 416: 4167—41 ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 17 Point and planted the Canadian flag and took possession of Bathurst Island and all islands adjacent to it, in the name of the Dominion of Canada. We built a cairn on this point on which will be found a record. We have been beset in the ice for two days. On the 21st August we landed on a point of Bylot Island which we named Canada Point, being the most westerly point on Navy Board Inlet, and took possession of the island. On the 23rd inst., we landed a cache at Port Leopold, a copy of articles in which is inclosed. At the same time we found the cache left by the ' Gjoa,' which being in an open condition we placed in a shelter house built by us, a tarpaulin separating the two. On the 24th instant we landed on the northeast point of Griffiths Island, which we named The Hon. Richard E. Dobell Point; the same day we planted the flag and took possession of Comwallis Island, building a cairn on Sherringham Point. From this point the Arctic will proceed to Byam Martin Island where we will take possession also, while on our way to Melville Island. Witnessed thereof under my hand this 28th day of August, 1906 A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of His Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer. ' * Fabien Vanasse, Historiographer. ' Joseph Eaoul Pepin, M.D. Jas. Duncan, Customs Officer. Wingate H. Weeks, Purser. John VanKoenig, Chief Engineer. Geo. R. Lancefield, Photographer. August 28th. At 7 a.m. we left Point Cockburn for Byam Martin Island. Wind from the IST.E., light breeze. We met some very heavy ice during the night ; it was drifting down through Austin Channel. We took soundings and found 60 fathoms of water. At daylight on the 29th of August we sighted Byam Martin Island. At 7 a.m. we landed on a sand point, a quarter of a mile west of Cape Gillman, where we built another cairn and took formal possession of Byam Martin Island. The area is about 200 square miles. August 29th, 1906. This island, Byam Martin Island, was graciously given to the Dominion of Canada by the Imperial Government, in the year 1880, and being ordered to take possession of the same, in the name of the Dominion of Canada, know all men that on this day the Canadian Government Steamer Arctic landed on this island, planted the Canadian flag and took possession of Byam Martin Island, in the name of the Dominion of Canada. We built a cairn on this island in which will be found a record. On the 21st August we landed on a point of Bylot Island which we named Canada Point, and took possession of the island, being the most westerly point on Navy Board Inlet. On the 23rd instant we landed a cache at Port Leopold. At the same time we found a cache left by the ' Gjoa,' which being in an open condition we placed in a shelter house built by us, a tarpaulin separating the two. On the 24th instant we landed on the northeast point of Griffiths Island which we named the Hon. Richard R. Dobell Point. The same day we planted the flag and took possession of Cornwallis Island, building a cairn on Sherringham Point. On the 28th instant we landed on Cockburn Point, Bathurst Isle, where we planted the flag and took possession. From here the Arctic will proceed to Melville Island. 18 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Witnessed thereof under my hand this 29th day of Augaist, 190C A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of His Most Gracious Majesty King- Edward VII. J. E. Berxier, Commanding Officer. Fabiex Vaxasse, Historiognipiier. Joseph Eaoul Pepin, M.D. Jas. Duxcax, Customs Officer. WixGATE II. Weeks, Purser. John VaxKoenig, CJdef Engineer. Geo. R. Laxcefield, Photographer. From here we proceeded towards Melville Island. The wind was strong from the N.E., wo had all sails set. The Byam Martin Channel was clear of ice; only a ridge of ice along the Melville Island. We landed at 1 p.m., 29th of August, on a point in Lat. 75° 06' N., Long. 100° 02' W., which we called Arctic Point, in honour of our little boat. We built a cairn and left a record of taking possession of Melville Island, Egiinton Island, Prince Patrick Island and all adjoining islands to it; about an area of 24,000 square miles. August 39th, 1906. These islands, Melville Island, Prince Patrick Island, Egiinton Island, and all adjacent islands were graciously given to the Dominion of Canada, by the Imperial Government, in the year 1880. And being ordered to take possession of the same in the name of the Dominion of Canada, know all men that on this day, the Canadian Government Steamer Arctic landed on Melville Island, planted the Canadian flag and took possession of Melville Island, Prince Patrick Island, Egiinton Island and all adjacent islands in the name of the Dominion of Canada. We built a cairn on Arctic Point, Lat. 75° 6' N., Long. 106° 2' W., Melville Island, in which will be found this record. On the 21st of August we landed on a point of Bylot Island which we named Canada Point, and took possession of the island, being the most westerly point on Navy Board Inlet. On the 2.3rd instant we landed a cache at Port Leopold, at the same time we found a cache left by the ' Gjoa,' which being in an open condition we placed in a shelter house built by us, a tarpaulin separating the two. On the 24th instant we landed on the northeast point of Griffiths Island, which we named the Hon. Richard R. Dobell Point, the same day we planted the flag and took possession of Cornwallis Island, building a cairn on Sherringham Point. On the 2Sth instant we landed on Cockburn Point, Bathurst Island, where we planted the flag and took possession. On the 29th instant we landed on Byam Martin Island, wliere we planted the flag and took possession. Erom here the Arctic will return to Erebus Bay, to finish our work there, seeing the state of the ice it is not prudent to go any further. Witnessed thereof under my hand this 29th day of August, 1906 A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of His Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. J. E. Berxier, Commanding Officer. Eabien Vaxasse, Historiographer. Joseph R.\oul Pepin, M.D. Jas. Ddxc.\x', Customs Officer. Wingate it. Weeks, Purser. Geo. R. Lancepietd, Photographer. ARCTIC ISLANDS AXD HUDSON STRAIT 19 The ice Tvas not much heavier in this coast than what we have seen since our entrance in these waters. There were openings all along the laiid of Melville Island as far west as we could see. We took soundings and found about 8 fathoms of water about a mile from shore. There was no snow on the land. The height of the land did not exceed 150 feet, it was almost flat up to the northern end of the island, where it is a little higher. As we had to return to issue licenses to the whalers, we decided to go to Pond's Bay. 20 CEUISE OF THE ARCTIC CHAPTEE III. RETURNING FROM MELVILLE ISLAXD TO PONd's ISLET. August 30th, 1906. Taking into consideration the state of the ice at this time of the season, it was decided that the best we could do was to take advantage of the present wind, to retrace our steps towards Pond's Inlet, and keeping to the southward, so as to annex the islands on that route. At 5 p.m., on the 29th August, we steered a little to the south of east, and by 8 o'clock we passed Byam Martin Island. We could see a heavy stream of ice to the southvsard; we had all sails set; the wind was to the northward. At daylight on the 30th August we passed a small stream of ice of this years formation. We could see the Bathurst Island just at the horizon, bearing due north. At 12 o'clock, noon, we were in Lat. Y4° 45' N., and Long. 99° 30' W. Wind about IST.JST.E., light, we shaped our course for Lowther Island. At 2 p.m. we sighted Davy Island, which is a small and low island, discovered by Captain Edward Parry. We landed on the most southern point of Lowther Island at 4 p.m. We called it ' Gourdeau Point,' in honour of the Deputy Minister of Marine and Fisheries. We built a cairn and caused the flag of the Dominion of Canada to be hoisted on this point as a token of taking of the formal possession. We left the flag on the mast; we also left a copy of the document that was drafted for the taking possession of the island. Weather perfectly calm and clear. The following is a copy of the document heretofore mentioned : — August 30th, 1906. This island, Lowther Island, was graciously given to the Dominion of Canada, by the Imperial Government, in the year 1880, and being ordered to take possession of the same; know all men that on this day the Canadian Government Steamer Arctic's officers landed here on the most southern point of Lowther Island, which I named Gourdeau Point, in honour of Lieut. -Col. E. Gourdeau, Deputy Minister of Marine and Eisheries; where we planted the Canadian flag, and took possession in the name of Canada, it was our intention to have landed here before, but owing to the state of the ice we delayed it to this date. On the 21st instant we landed on Canada Point, on Bylot Island, where we took possession. On the 23rd we landed a cache at Port Leopold, on the 24th we landed on the northeast point of Griffith's Island, which we named the ILonourable Richard E. Dobell Point. On the same day we landed on Sherringham Point, Cornwallis Island, where we planted the Canadian flag and took possession. On the 28th instant we landed on Cockburn point, Bathurst Island, where we planted the flag and took possession. On the 29th instant we landed on Byam Martin Island, where we took possession and planted the flag, the same day we landed on Arctic Point, Lat. 75° 06' N., Long. 106° 02' W., Melville Island and the adjacent islands. Prince Patrick, Eglinton, Emerald Islands. Erom here the Arctic will proceed to Russell Island, Cape Walker, and from thence to Prince of Wales Land. Witnessed thereof imder my hand this 30th day of August, 1906 A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of Llis Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer. Eabien Vanasse, Historiographer. Jas. Duncan, Customs Officer. •Joseph Raoul Pepin, M.D. Geo. R. Lancefield, Photographer. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 21 We thence steamed for Cape Walker, on Eussell Island, it is a remarkably large cape At 9.30 p.m. we landed on Eussell Island, at the foot of Cape Walker. We took formal possession of the island in the name of His Most Gracious Majesty the King, on behalf of the Government of the Dominion of Canada. I caused the flag of the Dominion of Canada to be hoisted and left floating on the point as a token of taking possession of the said island and all islands adjoining it. The ice was jammed here solid on to Prince of Wales Island as far as we could see. We built a cairn and deposited the copy of the record after hoisting the flag of the Dominion of Canada. Copy of the document deposited in the cairn after taking formal possession of the Eussell Island : — Aitgvst SOth. 1906. This island, Russell Island, and the adjacent islands, were graciously given to the Dominion of Canada by the Imperial Government, in the year 1880, and being ordered to take possession of the same in the name of the Dominion of Canada ; know all men, that on this day, a party of the Canadian Government Steamer Arctic landed at Cape Walker, Eussell Island, and we landed and took possession of Eussell Island and the adjacent islands in the name of the Dominion of Canada. We built a cairn in which will be found this record. On the 21st instant we landed on Canada Point, Bylot Island, where we took possession. On the 23rd we landed a cache at Port Leopold. On the 24th we landed and took possession of Griffith's Island on the northeast point, which I named the Hon. Eichard E. Dobell Point. On the same day we landed on Sherringham Point, Cornwallis Island, where we planted the flag and took possession. On the 28th we landed on Cockburn Point, Bathurst Island where we planted the flag and took possession. On the 29th we landed on Byam Martin Island, where we planted the flag and took possession. The same day we landed on Arctic Point, Melville Island, in N. Lat. 75° 6', and W. Long. 106° 2', where we planted the flag and took possession of iifelville Island and the adjacent islands. Prince Patrick, Eglinton and Emerald Islands. From here the Arctic will proceed to Prince of Wales Land. Witnessed thereof under my hand this 30th day of August, 1906 A.D., in the fifth year of the reign of His Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer. Eabien Vanasse, Historiographer. Joseph Eaoul Pepin, M.D. Jas. Duncan, Customs: Officer. Geo. E. Lancefield, Photographer. Seeing we could not land on Prince of Wales Island at night, we followed the edge of the ice all night. The fog came down at midnight, and after this we were only guided by the edge of the ice, as the ship's compasses were of no use, there being several points difference between one another on the ship. At daylight on the 31st August, Limestone Island was bearing a little to the north of east; we were then steering into Peel Sound, and there was an immense field of ice resting on Prince of Wales Island. At 10 o'clock in the forenoon we were off Cape Whitehead, on ISTorth Somerset, and we followed the coast of North Somerset towards Limestone Island. At noon on the same day we were in latitude Y3° 54' N., Long. 95° 34' W. Strong breeze from the eastward. At one o'clock in the afternoon we passed Cape Bunny, on Limestone Island, which is a remarkable island. The wind increased to a hard blow, and we took in our light sails, and continued on with the wind across the Barrow Strait. There was no ice whatever and we made up our mind to take shelter in Eesolute Bay, Cornwallis Island, as the weather was threatening. At 10 p.m. we anchored in 14 fathoms of water at the entrance of Eesolute Bay. The wind blew hard during part of the night. Saturday, 1st September, at 2 a.m. a stream of drifting ice came from the eastward, and we were obliged to pick up our anchor and move farther in the 22 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC harbour. At 8 a.m. the wind veered to the southeast and the ice started to come in ; we were obliged to get under way and proceed to sea. The fog set in and we shaped our course towards Erebus Bay. During the day we met several pieces of ice, and although it was foggy we kept in and took different casts of the lead, and found 100 fathoms. At 6 p.m. the fog lifted and we could see the land of North Devon, Beeehy Island, which we reached at midnight, the wind having moderated and there being no ice in sight. On Sunday, 2nd September, at 2 a.m., dropped anchor in Erebus Bay; no ice in the vicinity. At 9 a.m. strong breeze from the eastward; cloudy weather. After Sunday service we landed on Beeehy Island, and found a record which had been deposited by Mr. A. P. Low. Took a copy of the same and of a letter accompanying it, and signed by the same party. I attach these papers herewith. PROCLAMATION. In the name of His Most Gracious Majesty King Edward VII., and on behalf of the Government of the Dominion of Canada, I have this day taken possession of the Island of North Devon and of all islands adjoining to it. And in token of such formal possession I have caused the flag of the Dominion of Canada to be hoisted upon the land of ISTorth Devon, and have deposited a copy of this document sealed in a metal box in a cairn erected at Beeehy Island. (Signed) A. P. Low, Oificer in charge of Dominion Expedition to Hudson Bay and Northward. On board Dominion Steamship Neptune, Beeehy Island, North Devon, 15th August, 1904. Dominion Steamship Neptvne. Sacred to the Memory of W. BEAINE, R.M., op H.M.S. 'Erebus.' Died April 3rd, 1846. Aged 32 Years. Choose ye this day whom ye will serve. — Joshua, c. 24, part of 15 v. Sacred to the Memory of JOHN HARTNEL, A.B., of H.M.S., 'Erebus.' Died January 4th, 1846. Aged 2.5 Years. Haggai, c. 1, v. 7. — Thus saith the Lord of Hosts, Consider your ways. S.'iCRED to the Memory of JOHN TOEEINGTON, who Departed this life, January 1st, A.D. 1846, on Board the H.M.S. ' Terror.' Aged 20 Years. These are copies of the epitaphs on the monuments erected to the memory of the men who died while in search of Sir John Franklin's expedition. Dominion Steamship 'Neptune,' Beechy Island, August 5th, 1904. To ivhom it inay concern: The Neptune arrived here at 11 o'clock this morning, after a successful trip northward to Cape Sabine, Ellesmereland, where a landing was made at Conamander Perry's old quarters, which were found in good repair. At the time the ice was coming in heavy shoots out of Smith' Sound, and almost closed tlie ship in on the land. A landing was made at the point immediately north of Herschel Bay, and the flag was hoisted there, and formal possession taken, a record being left in a cairn on the point. There are only a few scattered sheets of ice in sight to the westward of this and nothing to prevent the ship going to Oornwallis Island. Prom here we intend crossing to North Summerset, and a landing will probably be made at Port Leopold. Then the intention is to. proceed eastward and go south ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 23 by Navy Board Inlet, and out through Pond's Inlet, by so doing the new whaling station will probably be found. From Pond's Inlet the west coast will, if possible, be followed to Cumberland Gulf. "We have had a lot of dirty weather, with southeast winds and much fog. All well on board. (Signed) A. P. Low. We surveyed all round the harbour in search of traces of those who had died while with the late Sir John Pranklin's expedition, and we found the headstone commemorating the death of three men who had perished at that place in 1845-46. We took a copy of the inscription on the marble tablet which had been left there by Lieut. McClintock, E.N., who had landed here from the Fox, in 1858. As follows : — To the Memory of FRANKLIN, CROZIER, FITZJAMES and all their gallant brother officers and faithful companions who have suffered and perished in the cause of science and the service of their country THIS TABLET is erected near the spot where they passed their first Arctic winter, and whence they issued forth to conciver difficidties or TO DIE It commemorates the grief of their admiring countrymen and friends, and the anguish, subdued by faith, of her ivho lost in the heroic leader of the expedition, the most devoted and affectionate of husbands. 'And so He bringeth them unto Heaven where they loould be.' This stone has been entrusted to be affixed in its place by the officers and crew of the American exjaedition commanded by Lieut. H. J. Hartstein, in search of Mr. Kane and his companions. This tablet having been left at Disco by the American expedition, which was unable to reach Beeehy Island in 1855, was put on board the discovery yacht Fox, and is now set up here by Captain McClintoch, E.N., commanding the final expedition in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions, 1858.' We decided to build a cement foundation for this tablet, which was flat on stone sills. We started the work on September 3rd. Monday we landed three-fourths of the crew with six barrels of cement for this work. We set the tablet in this cement in an upright position. We also painted the headstone that had been erected at that place in memory of three men, members of the crew of the Erebus and the Terror. Wliile this work was in progress, employing some of the party, the other members were busy searching for other relics of those expeditions. In a cairn, built by the crew of the Northern Star, in 1854, I caused the following records of the movements of the C.G.S. Arctic to be deposited therein, close to the tablet, and on Beeehy Island, 642 feet above the sea level. Hereunder is a copy of the record of the Arctic's movements, which paper I deposited in the cairn on Beeehy Lsland : — DOMKIOX STEAMSHIP 'ARCTIC.' To whom it may Concern: The Arctic arrived here yesterday morning, September 2nd, after a successful trip westward, having taken possession of Bylot Island, Bathurst Island, Byam Martin Island, Cornwallis Island. Melville Island, Eglinton Island, Prince Patrick Island, Lowther Island, Griffith's Island and Eussell Island, and having made a depot at Port Leopold, in case of need. We intend to sail this afternoon for Admiralty Inlet to intercept the whalers and probably winter in Arctic Bay; so that we will be in a favourable position to survey 24 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Cockburn Island on the west side from Cape Kater down to Capo Ilallowcll, and if possible cross over to take charge of Prince of Wales Land, of which we have made three unsuccessful attempts. From Admiralty Inlet we will proceed to Pond's Inlet next spring, and from thence to Port Bunvell. All hands are well on board. We have this day erected the tablet of Sir John Franklin. Crozier, Fitzjames; with stones and cement; and we have painted the names of the crew who died in different ships, on their headstones. Commanding Officer, J. E. Bernier. On board the Steamer Arctic, Beechy Island. To-day we also raised the yacht Mart/, that had been left on this island. Union Bay, by Sir John E(iss, in 1852. We placed this yacht so that it would not be destroyed by the sea, and could serve in case of any ship wreck in the vicinity. We picked up some coal, which had been left here by the crew of the Nortli Star, in 1854, and we brought it to the ship to see if there was any combustible matter left in it. The wind blew very hard from the S.E. It was foggy all day and the men that were ashore to work were all wet to the bones. They were very glad to get back on board, after having done a good day's work, and having dene our duty to those that we had learned to love and respect, we were on board in time for supper and to take a well-earned rest. Tuesday, September 4th. At 4 a.m. we got under way and proceeded towards Admiralty Inlet; wind to the south, light. At noon Cape Hurd was bearing N.N.E., about 9 miles off. There was no ice in sight; there was a little fog until midnight. At daybreak we could see Cape Crawford. S.vcRED TO THE Memory OF JOSEPH EENNE BELLOT, Lieutenant of the French Navy. Who was unfortunately drowned, hii a sudden disruption of the ice. in. a heavy gale of wind, on the morning of 18th day of August, ISBS. whilst gallantly leading a small party of British Seamen from the ' NortJi Star,' -up Wellington Channel, with despatches for the Arctic Searching Expedition. We entered Admiralty Inlet. Cape Crawford is bounded at its extreme shore by a reef which is very dangerous for vessels keeping too close to this coast in foggy weather. There were several pieces of ice aground on this reef. At noon we were in Lat. 73° 37' N., Long. 83° 50' W. We passed a new inlet, which I called 'Baillargee Inlet,' in honour of the late Chevalier Baillargee, who was president of the Quebec Geographical Society, and had rendered me some valuable services. During the after- noon we went into a long inlet, which was not named on the chart ; I called it ' Lord Strathcona Inlet.' The land in this neighbourhood is about 600 feet high, and resembles table land on both sides of the sound, coming out of Lord Strathcona Inlet. Going to the south- ward we saw a long reef running out from the western point of Victor Bay. This reef is very dangerous, as it is not marked on the chart. I gave this point a very wide berth, and sailed along the eastward shore which is very low. By 9 p.m. went into Adams Sound. I sent the 2nd officer of the Arctic into the Arctic Bay to see if there were any natives in this bay, as we expected to find some Eskimos here, according to informa- tion received. During this evening there was a large number of seals and narwhales swimming close to the ship. After the officers returned and reported that there were no natives in the bay, we proceeded towards the south. On Tuesday, September 6t.h we passed to the westward of Richard Islands; I noticed that instead of one island' as indicated by the chart, there are two islands at this place. The smaller of the two islands was not on the chart, it bears N.W. from the large island; and there is apparently a passage between the two. We proceeded to the 4167-5 < 4167— 5i SiH John Franklin's Tablet as we left it Sept. '06. P3 Male Beak killed at e NTRANCE OF AdMIEALTT InLET (Sept. '06.) ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 25 south, and we passed to the westward of Yeoman's Islands, and we noticed that there was another island to the N.W. of Yeoman's Island; we kept going on to the south, which channel was marked as land on. the chart that we have on board. At noon we were in Lat. 72° 00' IST., Long. 85° 20' W. Wo saw an immense body of water to the S.S.E., true direction. We kept going at full speed all day in that direction. This body of water is from ten to twelve miles wide. There are several islands along the eastern shore ; on the west shore there is a high peak which we called ' Kackitoo,' in the Eskimo language. At 6 p.m. we passed another peak, but not so high as Kackitoo, it was bearing S.W. from us; we called it ' Ekertoo,' the Eskimo word meaning not high. At 9 p.m. we noticed that the low land was closing together and the water was discoloured ; we took soundings at 25 fathoms of water, and having run a few more miles in the direction of the covering lands, we stopped for three hours, during the darkness. We called that opening ' Sassilook,' which means bad water in the Eskimo language. And gave the name of ' Berlinguet Bay ' to a bay which was opening to the eastward, this name was given in honour of Mr. Berlinguet, President of the Quebec Geographical Society. We decided to call the western shore ' Brodeur Peninsula,' in honour of the Minister of Marine and Fisheries. All this land was very free from snow, and it was quite a relief to us from the land that we had previously seen all the way in. This land was more uniform in height. Having no steam launch at my disposal I did not attemi^t to go further into the inlet. I decided to return northward again, as we had not met any whalers or natives. On Friday, September 7th, at 2 a.m. I proceeded a little farther to S.S.E., looking for an opening in that direction; from the crow's nest we could see a large lake over the low point, and as there was not sufficient depth of water for our ship we turned to the northward. Our Lat. being 70° 12' N., Long. 84° 10' W. We saw a small bay to the N.E. of us, and we named it ' Vanasse Baj',' in honour of our historiog'rapher. The wind being light from ahead, ship was going full speed with the engine. We passed a small inlet, to the east of us, which I called ' Prud'homme Inlet,' in honour of Mr. O. Prud'homme, who was the first man to help me when I arrived in Ottawa. At noon we were in Lat. 71° 55' N. At 5 o'clock in the afternoon we passed a large inlet to the northward of Yoeman's Island, we named this inlet ' Moffet Inlet,' in honour of Mr. F. Moffet, editor of the newspaper Le Temps, of the city of Ottawa. We kept our course to the northward and passed some high lands on the eastern shore. About 8 o'clock we passed another inlet, which I named ' Levassenr Inlet,' in honour of Major Levasseur, ex-presideat of the Quebec Geographical Society, who has rendered me several valuable services in connection with northern expeditions. We kept our course at night towards the end of Admiralty Inlet. At daylight, on Saturday, September 8th, there was a heavy fog, and we met some loose ice outside of Baillargee Inlet. At 8 a.m. we were obliged to stop for a short time. At noon we were abreast of Ellwin Inlet, four miles off. At 1.50 p.m. we saw a polar bear swimming close to the ship; we fired six shots at him, we killed him and sent the men to take him on board. The photographer took a photograph of the animal on board. This is the first bear that was killed by members of this expedition. Fine calm and clear weather. We shaped our course outside of Cape Charles York, where the shore runs far out into the water, and on which there were several pieces of ice aground. At 9 p.m. passed Adams Island, it is a small low island, about one mile in length. There were large icebergs in sight, when we entered the Navy Board Inlet channel. At midnight we passed Canada Point; no ice in sight, except a few small icebergs. The flood tide runs northward at this place and the ebb tide runs southward. On Sunday morning, September 9th, we entered Eclipse Sound ; fine, clear and cold weather; several icebergs in sight. We had the regular Sunday service on board at 10 a.m. At noon we could see the high lands of Albert Harbour. 26 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC At 5.30 p.m. we anchored in Albert Harbour, in 20 fatlioms of water. Mr. Cameron, the agent of the station, came on board and had svi]iper with us. We heard that tlic whalers had not come as yet, and that they evidently had been detained in the middle pack. After hearing- the report of Mr. Cameron, we decided to winter here, so as to be able to meet the whaling fleet, which was due to arrive here anv dav. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 27 CHAPTER IV. WINTERING IN ALBERT HARBOUR, PUXd's INLET, ON BOARD THE C.O.S. ' ARCTIC.'' September lOth. — At anchor in Albert Harbour. The chief officer sends one of his boats for fresh water, from a brook which runs down a little to the east of our anchorage ground. Mr. James Duncan, Customs Officer on board, Mr. Lancefield, photographer, and myself went up to Earjwack station, to meet Capt. Mutch, who is in charge of the station, to transact business with him relative to customs and fisheries ; the photographer came up to take some views of the station. We spent the greater part of the day arranging different matters as to duties and whaling, and we came back on board in time for tea. To-daj', 11th September, the chief engineer emptied the ship's boilers and filled them with fresh water. Snow squalls during the day; the weather is much colder than yesterday. Septem^ber 12th. — We commenced to cover the main deck with some lumber that we have brought with us, so as to make a good shelter for the men to take exercise during the winter. I went, for the first time since our arrival, to take soundings in the harbour; I expect it will take a few days to sweep the harbour properly. Natives came on board to-day to see the doctor; he had to iserform a surgical operation on one of them, to extract a bullet from the fleshy part of his breast; the operation was successful. This bullet had been fired wilfully by another native, named Snider, during a hunting expedition. Sunday, September 16th. — We held the regular church service at 10..30 a.m. Mr. Fred. Cameron, the representative of Capt. Mutch, had dinner on board, with some of the natives in his employ. We played the graphophone for the natives; they were much amazed and amused by this music. Monday, September 17th. — We took steam off froni the main engine, and dismantled the ship's funnel. The crew are working at the deck covering, and the Eskimos are out hunting. September 18th. — The mountains are all covered with snow and the winter is making its appearance. We removed twenty-eight tons of coal from the after hold and placed it in the bunkers. Our natives are gone out to lay some traps for hares. Eire regiilations and other orders to the crew for the ship's safety were posted up. The two quarter-masters are keeping watch night and day. Mr. Fred. Cameron moored his schooner, the Albert, for the winter, in the western side of the harbour. We took observation for latitude, and it places this harbour in Lat. 72° 40' N. and Long. 77° 58' W. Sunday, September 23rd. — The wind is very strong from the west. Service was held at 10.30 a.m., it was well attended by the crew and some natives. Half of the crew were given permission to go ashore for the day. Monday, September 24th. — Chief officer and his men commence to take in stone for ballast. The doctor and myself went ashore to collect stones or other specimens of interest, but we did not find anything interesting to bring back. September 26th. — We completed taking the twenty-eight tons of ballast that were needed to fill up the space that had been made by taking out the coal of the after hold. Mr. Vanasse, historiographer, Mr. Duncan, customs officer and Mr. Lancefield, photographer, went ashore during the day. The wind is blowing veiy hard from the S.W. A large iceberg came into the east side of the harbour, by the eastern entrance, 4167—6 28 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC aiifl grounded iu forty fathoms of water. It is a fine sight to see the iceberg with the dark shore behind it. We Idlled the remaining sheei) that we had brought out with us from Quebec, and wc hung- the quarters of meat in the rigging, so that they would be kept fresh and out of reach of the dogs. Went up on top of the mountain, from where can be seen a good deal of floating ice in Pond's Inlet. September 2Sth.— Light breeze from S.E. We took advantage of this breeze to take the turns off our chain, and while unheaving the anchor chain we broke off the pieces of the foundation under the windlass. The two natives came on board with the first hare caught this season. Sunday, September 30th. — At 9.30 a.m. steamer Eclipse came in the harbour. I went on board in company of Mr. Duncan, customs officer; we met Capt. W. F. Milne, master of the steamer. Monday, October 1st. — Went again on board the steamer Eclipse, to transact business for customs and fisheries. After having notified Mr. James Mutch, the business representative of the Dundee firm, that the new law regarding whaling called for payment of fifty dollars ($50) as license fee, he immediately gave me an order for this payment by the owners of his ship. And prepared to make an inventory of all the dutiable goods on board so as to make a list of the same for payment of duties. Both captains had dinner on board the Arctic. Captain Milne was kind enough to ofi'er to bring our mail and send it to Canada from Duaidee, Scotland, we immediately accepted the offer and prepared the mail for the evening. At 8 p.m. took the mail on board the Eclipse. Captain James Mutch went to the station to replace Mr. Fred. Cameron, who was returning on board the Eclipse, to Dundee, Scotland. Wednesday, October 3rd. — Eclipse sailed at 4 a.m. Fine, clear weather; light ice floating about in the harbour. Thursday, October 4th. — It is snowing to-day ; we are mooring the ship for the winter. The windlass was again defective while unheaving the starboard anchor; the engineer went to work to repair it. We picked up a good deal of fresh water ice from, floating pieces in the harbour. Saturday, the deck house is well under way; the ship is properl,y cleaned. The doctor and myself made a thorough inspection of all quarters, and found everything in good order. The men are given a half holiday, with permission to go ashore, to take exercise and hunt ; but very strict orders were given that they should return on board before the dusk of the evening. The quarter- masters attended to the boats for landing the men. Sunda.y. — We had service on board. Captain Mutch came on board for dinner. I was given much useful information by this gentleman, about the country, the natives and their customs ; Mr. Mutch has spent twenty years in this country. Monday, 8th October. — The carpenter has completed the work of covering over the deck of the ship, and we are now under good shelter. One of the quarter-masters went to hunt and brought back nine elder ducks. There is, however, not much game in this vicinity; as the large number of natives who live here hunt it and it keeps more in the bottom of the bay, where it cannot be so easily hunted. On October 9th we landed all our spare boats in case of fire on board during the winter. October 10. — Weather being fine, we unbent some of the sails, and stored them awa.v for the winter. The carpenter is making some windows for the deck house. The officers and crew are busy repairing sails, making sledges and storing away the ship's gear for the winter. Saturday, 13th. — Wind very strong from the west. There is very much ice in Pond's Inlet. The iceberg that had grounded on the east side of the harbour drifted away to-day. One of the quarter-masters was lucky enough to kill a seal; we had the meat of this large seal for supper and the men enjoyed it very much; they were very glad to eat fresh meat. This kind of meat is absolutely necessary in this climate, because the crew get tired of canned meat, and constantly ask for fi-esh meat. It Isecame necessary to induce the members of the crew to go hunting for seals whenever convenient. The western entrance of the harbour is closed by the ice. 4167—04 ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 29 Sunday, 14th. — It is blowing strong wind from tlie westward, with. snow. We had the regular Sunday service at 10.30 a.m. Half of the crew went ashore on leave. Monday, October 15th. — Our men are repairing sails and making- wind coats for the crew during the winter. October 16th. — The harbour is full of ice to-day. The wind is blowing strong from the southward. We are now fully surrounded by heavy ice coming from the middle pack, which is about eighteen feet in thickness. The young ice is making between the heavy ice, but it is only six inches in thickness. October 19th. — We hove short our anchors at low tide and, when the tide rose again we got both our anchors and moored the ship to the lee. Took several photos. Saturday, October 20th. — Warm clothing was issued to the men. The temperature is getting colder. The first fox was taken to-day in a trap. Sunday, October 21st. — Fine, clear day. Westerly wind. There is a large quantity of floating ice outside the harbour. As usual, on Sunday, one-half of the crew went ashore for the day. It was verj^ nice to hear the music from the pianola during the evening; the members of the expedition appreciate the music very much when far from honae. October 22nd. — After making the general daily inspection, I went ashore with one of the natives. We saw the track of a bear ; we followed it for some time, but finally lost it over the ice; the animal had gone towards Pond's Inlet. We did not see any other trace of game during the day, although we walked nearly ten miles before returning to the ship in the evening. October 23rd. — The strait of Pond's Inlet is jammed with ice to-day, and no ship will be able to pass after this date. The natives went on the ice to-day, and built their first snow-house ' iglon.' The carpenter built a gang-way from the ship to the ice, to allow the members of the expedition to go ashore more easily. October 25th. — Light wind from the westward, but the weather is fairly cold. The hogs remaining on board were killed and the meat was hoisted in the rigging. Our dogs were let loose on the ice, they appeared to be very glad to be free and at ease to run about. The natives killed three seals which were welcomed by the crew, as it furnished them good fresh meat. Saturday, 27th. — I commenced to take measurements of the ice in this harbour. It is seven feet in thickness to-day. I intend to take these measurements every Saturday, and I will annex a complete statement to this report at the end of the winter. Sunday, 28th. — Sunday service at 10.30 a.m. ; Eskimos attended besides the members of the expedition. The temperature is about 10° above zero. Fine weather. The greater part of the crew were taking exercise on the ice. October 30th. — Some natives came on board, and I asked them to make a small map of the route to Igloolick, with information about Fury and Hecla Strait and the coast to Cape Kater. It is astonishing to see how the natives find their way without compasses in those barren lands. They place stones in different positions at several places and use these as marks ; every native has his own marks, which are recognized by the others, who can tell who has passed on the roiite before, though they cannot understand the direction of the route indicated by the stones. Their distance is calculated by sleeps or days, every rest counting for one day, and means from 20 to 30 miles per day, according to the number of dogs they have and the load on the sledge. ISTovember 1st. — To-day being a holiday the crew had permission to go ashore, after the service was held on board. Jack frost is making his appearance, and winter seems to have come for good. During the past week we built a snow wall round the ship. The carpenter was working at sledges ; the Eskimos were hunting seals. The ice is now ten inches thick. November 7th. — Built two cairns, cue on Baffin Land and the other on an island to the east of us, and which is not marked on the chart. We will take possession and name this island on the 9th of November, which is the King's birthday. November 9th. — King's birthday. We fired the Eoyal salute. The holiday was celebrated on board and on shore. Fifteen natives came to the ship, upon our invita 30 CRUJsr; OF the arctic ti(jii, to take part in the celebration. The party then went np on the mountain on the island, to take formal possession of the same in the name of the King, on behalf of the Government of the Dominion of Canada. We named this island ' Beloeil,' after the name of the birthplace of Ilononrable L. P. Brodcur, Minister of Marine and Fisheries. We also took formal possession of Baffin Land and caused the flag of the Dominion of Canada to be hoisted and left floating at both places. A speech was made to the nieu and the natives, by myself ; calling the attention of the natives that they had become Canadians, and that we expected them to live in peace and respect one another, and conform themselves to the laws of the Government of the Dominion of Canada. We held a rifle competition, which proved that there were some sharp-shooters on board and that the natives were good rifle shots. All the Eskimos were invited to have dinner on board; and they enjoyed the celebration ver.y much. Mr. O. J. Morin, 2nd officer on board the Arctic, in company with Ruben Pike, A.B., went on top of the highest mountain to the west of us, and planted the flag of the Dominion of Canada thereon ; this mountain will hereafter be called Morin mountain. For that deed I issued two mentions of honoiir, as follows: — Phesi:.\'ii':d to O. J. MORIN, Si'.coxo Officer of the C.G.S. 'Aucttc' At Alb(:rt Harbour, Baffin. Land, as a token of the efficient way in which he carried out the difficult and dangerous task of planting the flag pole on toji of the mountain, which we shall now call Morin Mountain. J. E. Bernu';!!, Commanding Officer. Reproduction of the ducumeuts of the formal taking of pijssession of Baffin Land and Beloeil Island: — DE('E.\RAT10N. To Wliom it vifij] Concern: The Dominion Government Steamer Arctic wintered here 1900-7, between Baffin ]^and and this island which we called Beloeil, in honour of the birth place of the Honourable L. P. Brodeur, Minister of Marine and Fisheries, where we also left a cairn with a flag and a record in the bottle therein, on a point on the northwest part of the island, visible from Pond's Inlet, east side of the northern entrance. Lat. 72° 41' N Long. 77° 5.5' W. We intend this spring to go to -Tones Soimd and take possession of King Oscar Land, (irant Land, Graham Island, North Cornwall Island, North Kent, Finlay Island, Table Land, Amund Ringnes Land, Ellef Ringnes Land, King Christain Land, North Lincoln Island, Coburg Island, Axel Ileiberg Land, and all ad.iacent islands and dependences thereof. Then return to Port Burwell to finish our season's work, and return home in the fall of 1907. We are forty-one souls on board, and all well. God Bless the King. I. E. Berniek, Commandinfj Officer. Cr. Hayes, Chief Officer. Michael Ry\n, Carpenter. Jas. Duncan, Customs Officer. Fabiex Vaxasse, Historiographer. Winoate IT. Weeks, Pnrser. Geo. R. Laxcefield, Photographer. Ian Heron, A.B. -TOIIN A. SlJIPSON. C.G.S. Arctic, Albert Harbour, Pond's Inlet, November 9th, 190(1. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSOX STRAIT 31 ' DECLARATIOX. To ^Yhom it may Concern: The Dominion Government Steamer Arctic arrived here September 9th, 1906, having taken possession of the following- islands : Bylot, Cornwallis, Byam Martin, Melville, Eglinton, Bathurst, Prince Patrick, Lowther, Young, Davy, Garrett, (iriffiths and Eussell Islands, and we have made three attempts to take possession of Prince of Wales Land, which we have not taken yet. We left a depot of 5,718 lbs. of stores, in case of need, at Wliale Point, Port Leopold. We went np Admiralty Inlet, as far as Lat. 71° 12' jST., and still saw an opening to the northeast, but we did not go farther as our time was limited to meet the wlialers here. After due consideration and having read Commander Wakeham's report of August 17th, 1897, we took possession of BaiEn Land and all adjacent islands and dependencies adjacent to it, in the name of the Dominion of Canada, on a point on the west side of Albert Harbour, north entrance, Lat. 72° 41', Long. 77° 55' W. And on this day being the King's birthday we planted the flag of the Dominion of Canada, built a cairn, and deposited this document which will attest that the Dominion of Canada has taken possession of this important island. The Dominion Government Steamer Arctic wintered here 1906-7. •T. E. Berxier, Commanding Offixer. G. Hayes, Chief Officer. Michael Ryan, Carpenter. Jas. Duncax, Customs Officer. Fabiex Vaxasse, Historiographer. WiXGATE H. Weeks, Purser. KuBEX Pike. Geo. R. Laxcefield, Photographer. JoHX' A. Siirpsox. C.G.S. Arctic, Albert Harbour, Pond's Inlet, November 9th, 1906. Saturday, November 10th. — Wind strong from the S.E., with snow. We banked the ship with snow. I sent some men on shore to deposit the copies of documents heretofore mentioned, in the cairns that we had prepared for these. The measure- ments of the ice to-day gave one foot in thickness. Sunday, 11th. — Monkyshaw, our Eskimo interpreter, had the visit of his wife, who came from a hunting trip with her cousin. The photographer took photos of the couple. I annex hereto a copy of the interesting and valuable information I have received from Capt. W. F. Milne, with regard to the best harbour on the east side of Baffin Land, and other matters, Navy Board and Milne's Sound. There is fine anchorage for southerly gales inside Wollaston Islands, of which we have photos, but six or seven miles farther south, on the east side, there is a bay called after the Scotch Whaler Tay, where you can anchor in any water you like. Going from here south keep in the middle of Navy Board Inlet, the points in the chart are too prominent, but keep well away from the low laud on Bylot Island ; no less than three miles, because it is shallow and extremely dangerous, when it is thick. Going from here into Milne 'Inlet, steer between high island pass close to same, steer for two low islands, keep them on the port hand. Keep to the west all the way until you get to Milne Llarbour, where you will find on the west side any amomit of salmon in the river flowing from the west. This sound I called after Captain W. F. Milne, of the steam whaler Eclipse, who was master of the steam whaler Esqviniavx, who went up as far as the head of navigation, about Lat. 71° 40' north, and 83° west Long., but there is no connection with Admiralty Inlet for ships. The land is fairly high, and the ribs of a large whale were found on the west shore over one himdred feet high; deer are plentiful in summer. 32 CRUISE OF THE AECTIC Going north of Milne Sound, give the east outside islands a good berth, and then keep midway in Eclipse Sound, towards the Salmon Eiver. where you can take salmon at high water, there is a pond eight miles up where salmon can be secured m winter. The southern coast of Pond's Inlet is more or less broken land, with high peaks until you reach Eric Harbour, is about thirty miles. Cape Bowen should be surveyed for Lat. and Long., it ought to be further north, and not so far east. Then to the south of Cape Bowcn there are two islands with a ford running southwest by south. The next place of importance is Coutts Inlet, where there are a few more fiords running west after you pass Cape Antrobus. There is better anchorage in Dexterity fiord, eighteen miles north from Cape Adair, to the south of Cape Adair, which abounds with deer. To the south of Cape Adair ten miles you enter Scots Inlet, where there is a fine harbour called Refuge Harbour. There is a fiord south of Scots Inlet with two branches. Then south of that there is a bay to the north of Cape Eglinton, where there is a fine harbour on the south shore. Erom Austin to Agnes Monument, southwest Clyde Harbour, there is a pretty good harbour inside of Bute Island, natives are to be found and lots of salmon. From Bute Island to Austin it is a low sandy coast, Austin Point is dangerous. Low land as far as Cape Raper. There is Isabella Bay and Antiliviag Harbour, which is a good harbour. Keep the coast and from Cape Raper to harbour, west a quarter north, by compass, and anchor inside the hook. Erom there keep going south ten miles to Cape Kater, then go northwest into a large bight to the north of a small island. Home Bay is rather dangerous and full of islands and reefs. Don't attempt to go into the bay mitil you pass the fiSth parallel. Kangeeakdjung. then steer, keeping the land aboard and anchor half way between the mainland and the island. The harbour is called Hooper, but not the Hooper on the chart. And from there steer for Cape Broughton. there is a fine anchorage to the south of that island, and you can go in as far as you like, which is called Broughtoni Harbour, in Lat. 67° 27' iSF., from there steer for Merchant Bay, Cape Seasle. There is a nice harbour in Merchants Bay, inside of Cape Seasle Island, on the west point, going by the entrance. There is a bar with two feet, and should not be attempted by the east side. In Dunbar Harbour there is a deposit of coal which might be looked into, it is considered the best harbour on the coast, in Lat. 07° 5' N. Erom Dunbar Harbour to Cape Dier, there is a bight ten miles north of Cape Dier, where you can anchor in a southwesterly wind. Erom Cape Dier steer west by south, passing two islands, then to the west north- west where there is a fine basin to the southwest part of the bay, called Exeter Bay. After having passed Cape Mercy entering into Cumberland Sound, you can go into Nijadluk Harbour, recommended for large vessels. After passing that about eleven miles northwest there is a good harbour in Abraham Bay. There is fine salmon in both harbours. Erom there proceeding north northeast there is a fine harbour about fifteen miles from Abraham Bay. Erom Abraham Bay to Kekerton is about forty miles, keep to the west of Kekerton about one mile, and anchor one mile abreast of the station. From Kekerton to Brown's Harbour is about twelve miles, the harbour laj's on the north side between islands and the mainland. There is a fine harbour, at Niantilik Harbour, to the southwest of Black Lead, to the south of this harbour is a fine mica mine. At Black Lead we anchor to the west near the station near a small island. There is also a fine harbour, inside of two little islands, Karodliun. J. E. Bernier. Sunday, November 11th. — LTsual chiirch service was held to-day, and one-half of the crew was allowed to go on shore for exercise. In the evening the boatswain, ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 33 William Koss, was invited to have supper in the saloon, on the occasion of the anniversary of his birthday. I intend to keei3 up the practice of celebrating the anniversary of the birthday of each member of the expedition, as it creates good feeling and more intimacy amongst the crew, which is an essential point in an expedi- tion in the Arctic regions. Monday, Xovember 12th. — The men are busy working at the snow wall round the ship; the natives are building a large igloo, in which I purpose to place some stores, in case of accident to the ship, either by fire or by the ice during the winter. It is 10" below zero to-day. The pliotograijher and I are preparing some maps of Milne and Admiralty Inlets, for use in a proposed expedition. The carpenter, with !Mr. Doyle, a quarter-master, are workiug at sledges. Saturday, Xovember 17th. — The large igloo for stores is finished and we placed stores in sufficient quantity to last three months to the whole crew, therein, then closed it up. Sunday, ISTovember 18th. — After service Capt. Mutch came on board for dinner. The distribution of prizes won on the King's birthday, during the rifle competition, was made at three o'clock in the afternoon. A. Patenaude received first prize; Charles Lessard received second prize, and Xapoleon Chasse received the third prize ; consolation prize was given to William Coady, A.B. Five natives who made bulls' eyes were given a pound of tobacco each ; everybody was well pleased with the results of the competition. Every Sunday half of the crew has permission to go on shore for exercise, but they must always return to the ship before the dusk. ilouday. Xovember 19th. — General insjiection on board, especially about the condition of the stoves, stove-pipes, lamijs and everything pertaining to fire safety. such as pumps, hose, &c. Xovember 20th. — Weather fine and clear. Crew is again working at the snow inclosure round the ship; it is now of good proportions. Xovember 22nd. — Mr. Vanasse. the historiographer, the doctor and myself went to the station to see the natives and see how they are faring out in general. The sun has not been visible to us for some days past, but the light is fairly good from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday, Xovember 23rd. — Wind strong from southeast, with snow. The snuw was very much needed to complete the embankment round the ship. Sunday, Xovember 25th. — After service our able cook. iir. Jos. Thibault. made some good taffy for the celebration of St. Catharine's day. which is a French custom : all hands seemed to have enjoyed it very much. Weather is mild. !Monday, Xovember 26th. — We finished the second igloo, and we had the balance (if the stores for the crew for three months placed therein ; the whole stock consists of 7.000 lbs. bread, flour and salt pork, and a box of medicine. The boats remaining on board were landed ashore with complete gear and accessories. Saturday, December 1st. — The usual inspection was made and everything found in good order. The first Arctic sledge was finished to-day. We also terminated the work of the snow embankment round the ship. Measurements taken to-day proved the ice to be 20 inches in thickness. Tuesday. December 4th. — The men are taking a good supply of fresh water ice for our refrigerating puiposes in the ship below. The ]ihotographer is still helping me to complete two photo-ma]i albums for the proposed expedition trip during the winter. December 7th. — We commenced the inventory of the stores remaining on board. At the inspection everything was found to be clean and in proper order. December 8th. — Is a holiday. Conception Day. We held service at 11.30 a.m. Capt. Mutch had supper on board to-day. December 10th. — A report was lu-ought to the -hiii to the effect that the natives from the station were far from being in a position to endure the winter, as they were without food and menaced by famine. T immediately made inquiries into the matter, and it was found out that it was absolutely without foundation. 4167—7 34 CEUISE OF THE ARCTIC Friday, November 14th. — Captain James Mutch came oii board to see Doctor Pepin, to get some medicine for the natives of his station. I may mention here that the natives of this place are far from being well, and that Doctor Pepin had to render services every day either on board or at the station when they could not manage to come on board. I am very sorry to say that they do not pay much attention to clean- liness in their clothes nor habitations, and this is the cause of most of their imhealthy condition. Monday, December ITtli. — It was 28° below zero this morning and during the day. Doctor Pepin accompanied me to Salmon Eiver to see a sick Eskimo, who was unable to come to the ship. We made the journey with our Eskimo guide and a good team of dogs. The distance to Salmon Eiver is about ten nautical miles; we were back on board at 3 p.m. We found a good number of natives at this place; it is supposed to be one of the best hunting grounds during the winter. At present there are about 100 natives at Salmon Eiver. December 20tli. — We put up a stove on the main deck, for the use of the carpenter and the quarter-master who are working there. When we come on board, from outside, where it is sometimes 30° below zero, we find that it is about 10° zero on deck, and we leave our over clothes there and then we go below in the cabin, it is about 60° above zero, which shows that this arrangement of stove on deck and below is correct; none of the members of the expedition have as yet been complaining of cold. The ship is dry and warm inside. Saturday, December 22nd. — Wind west. Weather clear and cold. At ten o'clock in the forenoon it is still too dark outside to permit us to read ordinary type; it is almost eleven o'clock in the forenoon before it is bright enough to read outside, and at one o'clock in the afternoon it is again too dark outside to read ordinary type. This will give an idea of the length of daylight there is this day. I invited the men to arrange and decorate their cabins for Christmas. A large hole about 200 feet opened to-day in the ice, in the passage between the island and BaiEn Land which was caused by the rush of water in this narrow passage. We had to put lines all around that hole, to prevent the men from falling in if they should happen to be around in the evening. December 24th. — General inspection of the ship to-day; the main deck and cabin are perfectly clean; the living rooms and state-rooms have been properly washed and cleaned, and the officers have their state-rooms well decorated for Christmas; they have put up flags and family photos, and every one seems to be proud of his room. It is very pleasing for the members of the expedition and entices them to visit one another, which visits have the result of making time appear much shorter than other- wise. Our native Kanaka was instructed to tell the other natives that they were invited to spend Christmas day on board with their families. I gave orders to the steward to have dinner ready for about one hundred natives. Preparations were made to receive them; I also sent invitation to Captain Mutch to celebrate Christmas with us. December 25th, Christmas Day.— There was Sunday service in the forenoon; it was well attended by the members of the expedition and some of the natives who had already arrived for the dinner. At 1 p.m. all the natives had arrived on board with their families; about 120 persons, they sat down to a good Canadian dinner. After dinner I addressed them a few words; telling them again that they were Canadians and would be treated as such as long as they would do what was right. At 7 p.m. tea and coffee were served to all the invited, and some candy was given to the children A deputation of natives and some members of the crew came and asked my permission to dance on board. Knowing the pleasure it would afford them, I could not refuse'the request and was glad to accede to their wishes and to see that they would amuse themselves. The natives behaved very well and there were no disturbances of any sort but perfect good order reigned throughout. During the evening there were different tricks and acts done by the members of the expedition and natives. There were wrestling matches between Canadians and other matches of the same style between Eskimos; the men also performed acrobatic feats, juggling and other acts Music selections from the pianola and the graphophone were given during the evening The ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 35 Eskimos danced to the music of the accordeon. It was well on to 12 o'clock before the dance ceased and the natives left for their homes. Everj^body seemed to have enjoyed himself immensely and was glad of the celebration. December 26th. — Mild weather. The ship broke loose from the ice again; we gave a good cleaning all over the decks to-day. I have received the Doctor's report this morning and I am glad to note therein that all the men are in good health. Saturday, December 29th — Measured the ice and found a thickness of 21 inches; it is not getting any thicker. I believe it is due to the current of about three knots per hour which is caused by the ebb and the flood tides and the wind outside of the bay. I may add here that it is about spring tide now, and that we see the moon nearly all day long. December 31st. — General inspection on board to-day, the ship is iu first-class order. Received the report from the following oflicers : chief officer, with regard to his department; the chief engineer, about the coal on board, it is 304 tons by the report; and the chief steward's report about the provisions on hand. Photographer, Mr. George Lancefield, handed me some of the photographs he has taken since our departure from Quebec. We have sifted 91 bags of coal from the ashes ; it is quite a contribution for our deck stoves which burn this coal very easily. This year ends under very good conditions and it is to be hojjed that the coming year will be as successful. Hereunder will be found the results of our different observations and measurements about weather, ice, harbour, &c. : — The result of our observations of high water, full and change 11.4.5 a.m. Measurements of Albert Harbour : West entrance 482 feet. Narrows 533 "' Length of harbour 5,100 " Depth of water 16, 20, 25 fathoms. Breadth abreast Arctic anchorage 1,933 feet. Breadth of inside end 1,610 " Length of Beloeil Island 4,820 " East entrance of harbour (breadth) 3,842 '' jSf arrow part of entrance of harbour 3,000 '' There is a low split on the east side, it is not, however, dangerous. Keep in the middle and fear nothing. There is no anchorage by the northeast entrance, only when near the west entrance. The tides are irregular and of different strength, especially in the spring-tides ; but it all depends on the strength of the wind. This year the harbour was closed with heavy drift ice on the 16th day of October, and was frozen in heavy ice on the 23rd day of the same month. Tlie Arctic was at anchor on the west side of the harbour, 700 feet from the shore and 1,233 feet from the east side of harbour. I hereunder give also the different orders that were published for rules on board and out of the ship up to December 31st, 1906 : — ORDERS. C. G. S. 'Arctic,' Albert Harbour, Pond's Ixlet, September 20th, 1906. 1. The Commander would remind botli ofiicers and men that there is a long winter before us and we shall be from necessity in close community, that this state of things may continue for one year or more. Under such circumstances little frictions are liable to occur, but all hands making the best of things and working together in harmony, such little frictions can be easily smoothed over, and the long winter months will then slip past quickly and pleasantly. 2. It is to be distinctly understood that all orders respecting every department 4167—74 36 CKUISE OF THE AliCTIC of the vessel are to be given by the first mate, through the ofReer or person in charge of such department. ^„ ■ x /^ic i -ii All complaints are to he made through Mr. Hayes, the Chief Ofhcer. wlu. «'ill afterwards report to the Commander. Any officer or man believing himself unjustly treated can, if he so desires, request to be brought before the Commander. It must be borne in mind that frivolous complaints will not be entertained, and that any person making such complaints is liable to punishment. 3. A half holiday will be given to all hands, except watchman, on Saturday after- noon. Bj' Order, J. E. BlCUXIER, Commandinr/ Officer. FIRE REGl'LATKIXS oX BOARD C'.G.S. ' ARCTIC ' Every means should be taken to prevent fire from occurring. In case of fire the following regulations shall be followed:— Eire extinguishers are placed in the following places: Below DpcJcs. One extinguisher is placed at the end of the passage running forward port-side. One in the mess-room forward. One inside the engine-room door. One outside the mess-room north door. One in the forecastle. One in the starboard hall near the stove. Should fire be discovered the officer on v atch will at once be notified, and he will ring a general alarm on the ship's bell, and will also call the Commander and officers. The chief engineer will have charge of the pumps, and he will at onco make connections with the steam or deck pumps. The chief officer and the port-watch will attend with all his available buckets. The stewards, the cooks, will pass water to the waiters. The second officer will use the fire extinguishers, and the starboard watch and firemen will attend to the pumps. The third officer will attend the powder magazine, the chart room and the instru- ment room, and will report to the Commander if danger arises in that quarter. The boatswain will ha-^-e charge of the hose and see that it is connected with the main pumps. The carpenter will attend the fire-hole, and see that the water is at hand. The saloon passengers will make themselves generally useful. By Order, .7. E. Brrxter, Commanding Officpv. 1. Commencing Monday, October fst: Breakfast for the men at 8 a.m. Dinner for the men 12. .30 p.m. Breakfast for the saloon, 3.30 a.m. Dinner for the saloon, 1 p.m. 2. Seeing that we have a long winter before us, I would request that all lights be put out when the person is not occupying his cabin. Every one will please be careful to see tliat no oil is wasted, otherwise an allowance will be served. All lights out at 10.45 p.m. sharp. I will again remind both officers and men that we cannot be too careful about fire. 3. When on leave ashore or on the ice, two men must keep company, and we must know the direction they are taking, so that in case of need we may trace them ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 37 if necessary. A board will be put iip on deck for that purpose. All hands on leave must return before dark. Every one must be careful not to get lost or frost-bitten. All firearms are to be discharged before coming on board the ship. 4. All oil-skin coats, gloves, clothes and furs will be kept on deck, where they will be both aired and dried. Nails will be put uj) with the name of each person attached. By Order, J. E. Beenier, Commanding Officer. O.G.S. 'Arctic,' Albert Harbour, September 28th, 1906. Commencing to-morrow, stewards, waiters and cooks, will be given liberty and must, if they value their health, go out for one hour's exercise every day, they can go after their work is done, say from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., in pairs, during storms they can be about on upper deck. By Order, J. E. Bbrnier, Commanding Officer. G.G.S. 'Arctic' Albert Harbour, November 23rd, 1906. KOTICE. Seeing that the ice is now getting dangerous, nobody is allowed to leave the ship without permission and without a companion. Every one must be on board the ship at 8 p.m. sharp, and report to the watchman. By Order, J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer. C.G.S. ' Arctic,' Albert I-Iarboue, June 15th, 1907. orders. Coffee, 5.30 a.m. Breakfast, 8 a.m. Dinner, 11.30 a.m. and 12 p.m. ' Supper, 5.30 and 6 p.m. Persons not on duty must not make noise, while the officers and men are at rest after 8 p.m. Every one who has a deck light will be responsible for its o]iening and closing. When the officer on duty orders it, it must be done at once. By Order, J. E. Berxier. Commanding Officer. C.G.S. 'Arctic' Albert Harbour, July 22nd, 1907. Th(> following is a tabulated statement of the thickness of the ice in Pond's Inlet, at different dates, fi-om October 16th to December 31st, 1906: — 38 CRUISE OF THE ARiCTIC ALBERT IIARBOLTR, POXD's lis LET, 1006-7. Arctic arrived on September 9th, 190C. Ice commenced to drift in the harbour from sea, October 9th. October 16, 1906. — Heavy ice came in 18 feet thick. '' 17, 1906. — Ice stopped in harbour. 20, 1906.— Ice 2 inches thick. 27, 1906.— Ice 7 November 3, 1906.— Ice 10 10, 1906.— Ice 1 foot thick. 17, 1906.— Ice 15 inches thick. 24, 1906.— Ice 19 December 1, 1906.— Ice - 20 " 8, 1906.— Ice 20 " 15, 1906.— Ice 20 30, 1906.— Ice 21 Certified correct, J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer. C.G.S. 'ARCTic,' Pond's Ixlet, December 31st, 1906. AECTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON" STEAIT 39 CHAPTEE V. Feoji January 1st, 1907, to July 2Tth, 1907. January 1st, 1907, Xew Year Day. — General holiday on board. I am glad to say that everybody is well and haprjy. The usual Sunday service was held at 11 a.m., quite a number of Eskimos were present. During the day we received the visits of many natives, who came to wish us the coiupliments of the season; we entertained them suitably for the occasion. They seem to be more assured than they were when we first came in the harbour, and they do not avoid us so much as they did then. Our way of living has evidently served as a good example to them, as they are not so wild and have better conduct all round. During the evening there were games and music on board. We hired four of these Eskimos, to serve as guides and to look after the dog teams on the expeditions that we intend to make inland during the winter. Their names are Kanaka, Muckatowee, Tomallo and Kacktoo. During the week they commenced to make some native sledges for those proposed explorations. Both the chief and the second officers selected their guides and commenced preparations for their voyages. January 10th. — Mr. James Duncan, Customs ofiicer, Jack Simpson, Customs clerk, and the Eskimo Monkeyshaw, left for Coutts Inlet. Weather fine and clear. The thermometer registers 32° below zero. This trip is undertaken with a view of ascertaining if any goods had been landed at Coutts Inlet, by the Scotch whaler Balaena; as was reported to us some time ago. January 11th. — During the evening Mr. Duncan and his party returned to the ship, they were forced to come back as they had broken their sledge; they could not go farther than Eric cove. January 12th. — Muckatowee and Tomallo, the two natives, and myself crossed to Bylot Island, to try a new Eskimo sledge and a team of dogs ; they proved to be very satisfactory. We bored holes in the ice outside the harbour, to find the thickness of the same, we f oimd it to be 30 inches thick, while in the harbour it was only 24 inches ; the difference is due to the existing currents in the harbour, and which do not prevail outside. January 14th. — To-day, James Eyan, A.B., was granted pei-mission to walk on the ice round the ship for exercise, but at 4 p.m., when the roll call was taken, he did not answer to his name. Being anxious about his safety, I inunediately sent two men to the village to inquire if he had been there; they left, taking hand lanterns with them, as it was already dark. They returned some time after with the report that the missing man had been to the village, that he was alone, and had left to come on board at 3.30 p.m., we then surmised that he was somewhere on the ice. I instantly organized some parties to search for him, and sent those parties in difl^erent directions on the ice. It was only at 11 p.m. that the man was found, half frozen, on the ice, by Joseph Goidet; he was about three miles from the ship, in a IT.E. direction. He was brought back on board, and the doctor examined him at once ; it was discovered that he had his ears, cheeks, nose and one of his eyes frost-bitten. Dr. Pepin took him under his care; he had a good deal of trouble to save his eye-sight. The man only recovered from the effects of this adventure about three months after. His mind was somewhat deranged at the time of this sad occurrence. I am of the opinion that Mr. Goulet should be rewarded for the way in which he conducted himself during the search, risking his own life to save that of one of his companions, for it is certain 40 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC that if we liad given up the search at this time of the night and during such severe cold th(? poor man would have been dead before daylight. January 18th. — Full inspection in every part of the ship to-day, everything is in very gciod order; the heating arrangement and the fire-hose are giving good satis- faction. I measured the distance from the ship to the village, to-day, it is 3 nautical miles and 3,000 feet. January 29th. — There are 37 Eskimo dogs and four solid sledges ready for the coming expeditions inland; the dogs are well trained. February 5th. — The photographer and m.yself went over to Bylot Island to see the sun over the high hills of Baffin Land, and to take some photos. At midday we were well rewarded for our undertaking by the view of the sun for the first time in four months. We returned back on board in time for tea, before darkness of the evening. February lltli. — Frederick Brokenliauser, an oiler in the engine department, who had been sick for a few days, died, at 6 a.m. Dr. Pepin had reported that his case was serious, and everything possible had been employed to restore his life, but it was without avail. He died of heart failure. Dr. Pepin, S. Croteau, Jos. Goulet and myself were at his death-bed during the last moments of his life. CERTIFICATE 01'' DEATH. Frederich Brohenhau.ser. B.y the present I certify that Frederick Brokenhauser died this day, February 11th, 1907; the cause of the death being heart disease. (Mitial insufficiency.) (Signed) J. E. Pepin, M.D., Phijsirian and Surgeon on hoard C'.G.S. 'Arctic' C.G.S. 'Arctic,' February 11th. 1907. February 12th. — Frederick Brokenhauser, who died yesterday, was buried with all the services of burial possible, and due honour. He was buried in a grave that we had prepared for this purpose and that we afterwards decorated with some stones and a large cross with ej^itaph. We had a visit from some natives from Cape Adair, about 200 miles to the east of Baffin Land; they reported that some whales had been seen near that Cai^e in the month of October, but that there were no whalers at that time. February 14th. — Mr. George Mays, chief officer left to-day, with his natives and dog team for an exploration voyage inland, in order to ascertain how far south the Milne Inlet runs, and, if possible, to see the natives of Egloolik and learn of the state of the ice in Fury and Hecla Strait. Mr. 0. J. Morin, 2nd officer also left to-day, for a voyage inland, with his two native guides and dog team. Fie is to go to Navy Board Inlet, to ascertain the state of the ice, and, if possible, to go as far as Prince of Wales Island. I went with him to a point five miles from the ship, and I returned on board for supper. During the ]n-esent week we expect to take a series of lohotographs of the harbour and the surrounding country. When the weather is fine, the men are employed at taking some stone ballast and fresh-water ice for our fresh water on board. March 5th. — At 11 p.m. Mr. George Hays, chief officer, and his party returned, all well, from his exploration voyage to Milne Inlet, which runs as far as Lat. 71° 30' N. He weiiL up a few miles inland, but was forced to return, having lost some of the dogs, which died. He brought some specimens of stone gathered at several places round the inlet. Mr. O. J. Morin, 2nd officer, arriveT" ■.: V , "' \ 4i *•,< . o i C*' ^l 4167—8 ARCTIC ISLANDS AXD HUDSOX STEAIT 41 some time ago to go to Coutts Inlet, returned to-day. He reports that no goods were left in that inlet by the whaler Balaena. March 31st. — This being Easter Monday, the ship was well decorated with the flags and bunting. Sunday service was held as usual at 11 a.m., it was well attended. We had a guessing competition as to the width of Pond's Inlet from shore to shore near our anchorage. This had been the topic of conversation all the past week. Joseph Lessard, quarter-master, was the nearest guesser, with 35,324 feet; the distance being actually 35,68i feet across to Bylot Island, measured over the ice. I issued an order for a box of cigars to be given to the winner of the competition, who so ably found the approximate distance by practice of the route over the ice. April 11th. — Mr. Green, 3rd officer, Mr. George Lancefield, photographer, and two natives left to go to take measurements of Eric Harbovir, and take photographs of the coast and harbour. April 13th. — The ice is Gl inches thick in the Pond's Inlet Harbour. April 14th, Sunday. — After the Sunday service the men went on the ice to play foot-ball for exercise. The snow is melting on the sheltered hills, and the men have to wear snow goggles. Kanaka came for a walk round the island with me to see about the effects of the change of temperature on the ice and land on this island. April 16th. — Mr. George Lancefield, photographer, and party returned to-day, all well. They brought much information concerning Eric Harbour. When the dogs sighted the ship they turned round and ran wild, upsetting the sledge and throwing the photographer, who was hurt in the fall. The doctor was obliged to attend to him, but he was not seriously injured. Mr. Green did not return at the same time as Mr. Lancefield, but remained at Button Point, and gathered some specimens of stone, &c. April 21st. — Mr. Charles Green, 3rd officer, arrived from Button Point, to-day, and brought a good many samples of stones, and some birds ; he also received much information about Bylot Island, from the natives. His report confirms my opinion that the whalers first go to that point when they arrive, at the beginning of the season ; and that they go there to trade with the natives, and to exchange their merchandise for furs and other products of hunting and fishing that these people may have on hand. With the knowledge of these facts I have planned that I should send some parties to Button Point, at the first part of June, to meet the whaling fleet. April 22nd. — Amawalick, Coming and Ictoosamjoa, a one-eyed man, all natives of Igloolik. came on board to-day. We invited them to dinner. During the afternoon and the evening they were with myself and the interpreter, and they gave us very valuable information about the state of the ice and other local conditions of Fury and Hecla Strait. Prom this information I am led to believe that the strait of Eury and Hecla opens every year in the month of September, and that ships could go through from Prince Regent Inlet to Eox Bay. The water rises about 8 feet with the tide in Fury and Hecla Strait. From Cape Hallowell to Cape Kater, on Brodeur Peninsula, the ice moves the greater part of the year off and on the shore. There are a good number of walruses in the strait and in Fox Bay, also a large number of seals. It took the natives thirteen days to come from Igloolik to Albert Harbour. The following are the names of the natives at Igloolik, which they gave me and I kept for further reference: Men, Otoocooshow, Coatickcoo, Agotinno, Atajoha, Paneeja, Otacootoo, Majotoo, Ogaloolah, Paone, Tuketuke, Ekskealoo, Olooleejaaaa, Okote, Okago, Atogoleega, Pojah, Otokee, Acotoaloo, Atotaaloo, Ototooa. ISTeveatea, Kegaelah, Kamojo, Covoga, Natee, Aga, Atagoajogoee, ISTosato, Cenoka, Ogoyloava, Ifatee, Hisagacoto, Motao, Oleelick, Tabasonoa and Aleegay; women, Atoa, Seeacoloo, Xakoteeve, Aveegaoja, jSTasa, (Coonie) Kaawna, Panotoo, Anaooga, Anatia, Tapatia, Ota and Sieto. I also received other information, which I will be able to use later on. These natives also say that they have not seen a ship in the Fury and Hecla Strait for a good many years ; they have food and furs in abundance. I am very much obliged to Capt. James Mutch for the valuable assistance he has rendered me in acting as interpreter between the natives and myself, not only on this occasion, but on many other instances, during the winter. April 26th. — I have installed a tidal apparatus, to register the different heights of 4167— 8i 42 CRUISE OF THE AECTIC the tide at spring tide, tlie time has proved to be 11.4.5 a.m. for all our observations. Mr. James Duncan, Customs oificer, and Mr. Jaclv Simpson, Customs clerk, with natives and dogs arrived from Erik Harbour, where they had gone to see about some goods which it was supposed had been landed there by the whalers. During the present month the crew was employed stitching and repairing the sails, and every- thing was put in good order in the sail locker. May 3rd.— We took all our boats from their winter quarters and brought them alongside the ship, to have them properly painted and cleaned. I am sorry to say that the Eskimo Snider, who had returned some time ago fronv a hunting trip, died to-day. He is the native whom I have already mentioned in this report as having shot another native during a hunting expedition about two years ago, and from whose breast the doctor on board had extracted a bullet last fall. It was my intention to hold an inquest about this affair, but as the guilty native was sick ever since his return, and seeing that the other native did not make a charge against him, I did not conduct such inquest. Snider died some time after, and we buried him on the floe ice, as he had requested before dying. May 4th. — The propeller and the rudder are well clear of ice. The ice is 61 inches in thickness. May 8th. — Temperature 11° above zero, weather fine. The natives hired by us have been sent to Button Point to catch some seals. May 9th, Ascension Day. — We held service at 11 a.m. Mr. W. IT. Weeks, purser, and myself went up to the station to get some more information from the natives before they leave for Igloolik. It is a nice treat to be able to stretch our legs on such fine smooth ice; for the ice in Pond's Inlet and Eclipse Sound is wonderfully smooth at present; an automobile could go hundreds of miles on this ice. May 15th. — We commenced a regular inventory of stores and provisions on board. Mr. Michael Eyan, the carpenter, and Mr. William Doyle, a quarter-master, com- menced to calk outside the ship to-day; the rest of the crew is getting the ship in first-class order before we sail. May 18th. — The thickness of the ice is 6.3 inches to-day, it is the thickest we have measured this winter inside the harbour. May 21st. — We embarked the depots of provisions that we had left last fall, in the igloos, in case of accident to the ship during the winter. The ship is undergoing thorough cleaning in every department. May 23rd. — Mr. George Hays, chief officer, went on Baffin Land and enlarged the cairn we had made last fall, and he deposited some more documents of our past work and our future movements, ilr. O. J. !Morin, 2nd officer, went on Beloeil Island and he also enlarged the cairn we had nrade last fall, and he deposited some more records of our past works and our future movements. j\ray 24th. Victoria Day. — I gave a general holiday to all the members of the expedition for the occasion. Ship was properly decorated with flags and colours of all sorts. The first seagull made its appearance to-day. There was some entertain- ment in the saloon in the evening for the occasion; Captain Mutch, of the station, was a guest on board during the day. June 1st. — The temperature is 45° above zero to-day. Captain Mutch left to go to Button Point, with two of his whale boats. The idea of leaving at present is that he wants to be ready to fish as soon as the whales make their appearance in the sjjring. June 3rd. — Mr. James Duncan, Customs officer, and Mr. Jack Simpson, his clerk, went down to Button Point, with some natives, to be on hand when the whaling fleet arrives from outside ; they will thus be ready to collect the Customs dues. June 4th. — The carpenter, two sailors, one fireman and myself went to the cemetery to dig a hole to lower the coffin of Brokenhauser, which was buried in the snow during the winter. We also built a stone wall around the cemetery and we afterwards placed the coffin in the grave. The natives are leaving the seal hunt for the deer hunt. June 7th. — The wind was from S.E. all day. It rained for the first time since last AECTIC ISLANDS AXD HUDSON STRAIT 43 summer. The thermometer registers 32° above zero. The carpenter is starting to do the repairs and general overhauling of the boats. June 11th. — Mr. Charles Green, 3rd officer, Mr. W. H. Weeks, purser, were authorized to go down to Button Point to meet the whaling fleet and issue some whale- fishing licenses to the whalers, and also bring back our mail, which is expected to arrive on those whalers from Canada via Dundee. The licenses are to be issued on consideration of $50 each. Mr. James Duncan, Customs officer, was authorized by the Customs Department, to collect the dues on all dutiable goods brought on board the whalers. June 15th. — Captain Mutch again left for Button Point for whale fishing. June 18th. — I received a letter from Mr. W. H. Weeks, to-day, in which he states that the steamer Diana had arrived outside the floe edge, some 15 miles from Button Point, and that he had gone on board that vessel with Mr. Duncan, Customs officer ; he adds that he issued a whaling license to the master of this whaler, and that Mr. Duncan collected the customs dues. The temporary winter roof was removed from over the ship's deck, by the carpenter, to-day. We now enjoy more light and fresh air from outside in the cabin below. June 20th. — Mr. W. H. Weeks, purser, returned from Button Point, he reports that ho has issued three more whaling licenses, since writing, one to the whaler Eclipse, one to the whaler Balaena, and one to the Morning. Mr. Duncan reports that he has collected several hundred dollars of Customs dues on board those ships. Captain Mutch also returned from Button Point to-day, and he brought us one-half bag of fresh potatoes ; they were very much appreciated by the officers, men and myself. June 24:th. — Messrs. O. J. Morin, 2nd officer, George Lancefield, photographer, Xapoleon Chasse. quarter-master, A. Bolduc. 2nd engineer, and Euben Pike, A.B.. with a native Monkeyshaw, went up on the Morin Mountain and they put up a bottle con- taining a record, on the highest point of the mountain, 1,210 feet above the sea level. Mr. George Hays, chief officer, and myself adjusted our compasses on board. We found 90° westerly variation; we are in Lat. 72° 42' 32" N. and Long. 77° 50' W. This being the longest day of the year here, we celebrated with the usual festivals. June 27th. — At 3.30 a.m. our dear little Arctic cut loose from the hands of 'Jack Prost,' and it was quite a sensation to members of the expedition on board to know that we were again free from the ice. Her draught of water aft was 19 feet, and forward 17 feet 1 inch; 2° list to port side. June 29th, Saturday. — At the full inspection of the ship it was found to be in very good order, both below and on the deck. Fine, clear T\'eather. I commenced to paint a solar dial on the upper bridge. July 1st, Confederation Day. — Wind light from the S.E. Beautiful weather ; the flags and all colours are floating in honour of the day. At noon I addressed a few words to the crew, who were assembled in the saloon. On the occasion of this day. I hoped that Newfoundland would in the near future be annexed and form part of the Dominion, and wished to take more islands in the north before the year is over. During the evening there were different amusements and music in the saloon. July 3rd. — All the rooms below deck are cleaned and ready to receive a coat of paint. Mr. O. J. !^^orin. 2nd officer, left to go to Salmon Eiver. he was accompanied by three natives. July 4th. — We received 500 fine salmon from Salmon Eiver, they had been caught by Mr. Morin and the natives, who left here yesterday. We prepared all this fish for further use. To-day I received seve/al certificates that the following departments were ready and in good order to proceed to sea : one from the chief officer about his depart- ment; the chief engineer, chief steward, the electrician, about their respective depart- ments, and one from Mr. W. H. Weeks, about general stores and provisions. July 12th. — Capt. Mutch has takeji out his license for this year for whale fishing; the total number of licenses issued is ten. and at $50 per license it makes the sum of $500, this is for two years, 1906-7. There are. however, not many whales this season at Button Point, and I am afraid it will be a poor season. July 14th. — Mr. James Duncan, ^Jr J. Simpson, and the native Ogelley, arrived 44 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC from Button Point, where Mr. Duncan collected several hundred dollars of dues from the whaling' fleet. July 17th. — I went around Beloeil Island with Quarter-master Chasse, to see about the state of the ice. July 21st. — After service. Quarter-master Chasse and I went up on top of Beloeil Island, and from there we could see a good deal of clear veater in Pond's Inlet. July 26th. — There was a strong gale from the S., and a large pan of ice came in the harbour, caught the schooner Albert and drove her ashore; there was nobody on board at the time of this drift. We immediately despatched two boat crews, and boarded the schooner. I gave orders to haul her ofl^ the shore. After she was hauled off the shore we put one of her anchors out, and we returned to our ship. Before leaving for sea I beg to submit the following statement, which is the result of our observations during the winter, and of the information received from the natives and the agent at the Dundee station : — ALBERT II.VRBOUR — POXd's I^'LET. STz\tement of the measurements of the ice in the harbour from January 5th to July 27th, 1907 :— I'ate of measurements of the ice in harbour. Thickness 1907. near ship. January 5 20 J inches. " 12 24 " " 19 29 " " 26 30 " February 2 .331 " " 9 39 " " 16 41 23 42 March 2 43 " " 9 44 9 (1,000 feet out of harbour) 58 " 16 48 " 23 52 " " 30 60 April 6 (31 '■ " 6 (outside of the harbour) 65 " 13 61 " 20 61 " 27 61 May 4 61 " " 12 (snow commenced to melt) 61 " 18 (snow embankments are getting rotten and are melting away fast) 60 " " 25 60 " June 1 59 " " « '.'".'.'.V .'.' .'.■;: 59 " " 15 59 " ;; 22.. .^ 58 " 29 (ship ranging on her berth) July 6 56 « " 13 (ice is bad) 60 " 20. Ice broke in the harbour and is moving with the tide. " 27. Left harbour for sea. J. E. Beeniee, Commanding Officer C.G.S. 'Arctic' ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 45 Albert Harbour is the best harbour in Pond's Inlet; the only inconvenience that there is about it is that the land is exceptionally high, the highest is 1,200 feet on Morin Mountain, and Beloeil Island is about 950 feet high and its length is 8,200 feet, which makes good shelter for ships from easterly and S.E. winds. The island is of solid rock, with no vegetation ; a few hares live on it. The length of Albert Harbour is 5,100 feet, the N.E. entrance is 3,812 feet in width, the west entrance is 182 feet, with no less than 7 fathoms of water in the shallowest i)lace, while in the eastern entrance there are 10 fathoms of water. Currents are irregular ; their irregularitj' is caused by the varying winds. The best place to anchor is at about 1,000 feet near the western entrance, where we get good holding ground in 20 fathoms of water. There is a brook of fresh water on the eastern entrance, on the south side; this brook runs only in June, July, August and September; in October there is no more water, the stream is practically drJ^ The natives have adopted a place on the S.W. corner of the bay for their station, from there they have a good connection with the Dundee whaling- station, which is about three miles from it. Pond's Inlet ice comes into the harbour about the 5th of October, freezes anil remains solid until about the 10th of July. But the Salmon River was clear of ice by July 1st this year ; the best time for fishing salmon in this river is about the 15th of June until the 10th of July, the salmon come in again during the latter part of July, they are all up in the lakes by the 1st of September. This lake is at a distance of 8 miles from the entrance of the river. There is a good deal of lignite coal along the river; this lignite burns readily, and would certainly be a great combustible article for those who know how to use it. There is also airother fine salmon river on the west side of Milne Inlet, near its head. It has been reported that in Philipps Creek, in Milne Inlet, the most southerly bay with a low shore, the deer abounds. Pond's Inlet is a very fine sheet of water, having a depth of 460 fathoms, and its narrowest part, which is between Beloeil and Bylot Islands, is 35,324 feet, this has been surveyed by the members of the expedition and myself with a tape line, over the ice, during the winter. There is no other anchorage where ships could have shelter from the ice except at Erik Cove, which is 20 miles to the east of Albert Plarbour ; Erik Harbour is 25 miles to the south of Button Point. The measurements of Erik Harbour are as follows: 38,500 feet deep, 13,600 feet wide at the entrance; there are two good anchor- age grounds, in about 9 or 10 fathoms of water, at the bottom of the bay, on the S.W. side, opposite a large glacier. Erik Harbour is not as safe as Albert Elarbour on account of its very large mouth, which allows the ice to come in freely during heavy northeast winds, a vessel is then in danger of being driven ashoi'e during a gale. There are no Eskimos living at Erik Harbour. The name given to the natives who live in the northern part of Baffin Land and Eclipse Sound is Tununirmuit, and the name of the natives living in Admiralty Inlet is Tununirusimuit. There are no Eskimos at the following places : North Devon, North Cornwallis Island, Bathurst Island, Byam Martin Island, Melville Island, Prince of Wales Island and North Somerset Island. There are about 160 natives, men, women and children, living at the Dundee whaling station, Albert Harbour and Button Point, Bylot Island. They travel inland towards Arctic Bay, Milne Inlet, and Navy Board Inlet, from Button Point in the spring, where they hunt for deer and fish salmon. They are sealing during the winter. Seven persons, natives, died during the past winter; two men, two women and three children. A good number of natives were attended by the doctor from the Arctic during the past winter. The Eskimo lives principally on seal meat, deer meat and salmon. Seal seems to abound here, especially at Button Point, dirring the early part of the spring. Narwhales come into Pond's Inlet and Eclipse Sound as soon as the ice breaks ; probably a couple of hundred narwhales are killed during the summer. These narwhales have an ivory horn from six to eight feet in length pro- jecting from the top of their head. The value of this ivory tusk is from ten to twelve shillings per pound; last year a shipment of these tusks sent to England amounted to about $4,000. About three hundred fox skins are shipped from here every year; this represents a value of about $900; there are also about 1.000 seal skins shipped from this place every year, these are sent to vScotland. Other shipments of polar bear 46 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC t^kius, walrus skins and walrus tusks are made from here aimually. During the spring and the summer the natives capture quite a number of hares on the island. I'he natives trade with the whalers ; exchanging their furs and skins for tea, molasses, biscuits, sugar, tobacco, matches, knives, cooking iitensils, ammunition and clothing. The following is a statement of the population in three different places : — NUMBER OF NATIVES IN HUDSON BAY, HUDSON STRAIT AND BAFFIN LAND. I'laces in Hudson Bay and Hudson Strait — Natives. Baker Lake (approximately) 200 Churchill to Baker Lake 150 Winchester Inlet 160 Fullerton 100 Repulse Bay 150 OgliUik 200 George's River 40 Ungava Bay 200 Wolstenholme to Fort Chime 200 Wholstenholme to Churchill 300 Total number of natives as per figures furnished by natives . 1,700 Baffin Land — Earjuvat Station 160 Button Point 100 Cape Adair along the south coast 200 Kekerton 150 Black Lead 260 Cape Haven and along the shore 100 Total number of natives as per figures prepared by Capt. J. E. Bernier 970 2,670 July 26th (continued). — The Arctic is ready for sea; we are waiting for the ice to get looser so as to permit us to leave the harbour and proceed to sea. ARCTIC ISLAXUS AXD HUDSOX STI?AIT 47 CHAPTER YI. VOYAGE FROJI POND's INLET, ALBERT HARBOUR TO PORT BURWELL. July 27tli. — We got under way at 10 a.m. and proceeded to sea. At 2 p.m. we made ship fast to the ice, about live miles east of Albert Harbour. We took soundings and we found no bottom at 160 fathoms. The ice is not yet broken towards the sea. July 2Sth. — At 4 a.m., wind S.E., the ice seems to be more separated than yesterday, and we started to break our way through it. We made the ship fast to the ice again and took more soundings, found 460 fathoms of water, with a mud bottom. Had service at 10 a.m. ; it was St. Ann's daj', and we had very good singing at the service to-day. At 3 p.m. we saw two whalers, the Eclipse and the Morning, they were about two miles to the eastward of us. The fog set in and we had to make the ship fast to the ice again, for the night. Monday, Jidy 29th. — Fine and bright day. The steam whaler Morning is working her way through the ice towards the south. We unmoored from the ice and made our way towards the south, where the ice seems to be lightest. At 7 p.m. Captain Cooney, of the late steamer Windward, came on board over the ice, and passed the night with us. He reported to us that he had lost his steamer, the Windivard, on the Carey Islands, he gave us the details of the Vv'reck, and of the hardships they had on their trip to Pond's Inlet, in life-boats. I offered to help him and his crew, but he thanked us, saying that at present he did not need any lielp. He slept on board, because of the wind and rain. On Tuesday morning, July 30th, after breakfast, Capt. Cdoney left to go to his ship, on Carey Islands. The ice broke and we made another attempx to work our way through it. At 12 o'clock noon, we were trying to break what appeared to us to be the key between the two ice floes, and at 4 p.m. we came within hailing distance of the steamer Morning, Capt. Adams; this captain came on board and remained until 6 p.m. He intends to go to Salmon River, to fish for salmon. x\t 7 p.m. we left the steamer Morning and proceeded towards the east, through the ice and the fog that was prevailing for some time; we took soundings and got bottom with 260 fathoms of line. July 31st. — At 2 a.m. the fo,g cleared off a littl'^. and we saw Cape Grahamore, about 6 miles off. We took our course along the laud of Pylot Island, meeting large pans of ice now and then. At noon we were in Lat. 73° 27' IST., and Long. 70° 15' W. There nas an immense glacier bearing vest of us, in front of a high mountain. There are a good many icebergs about, but there is no more field ice. At 2 p.m. we passed Cape Byam Martin, three miles off. At four o'clock we passed Possession Bay, where Sir John Ross had landed and taken possession of Bylot Island, in 1818. The wind being ahead we did not land. I intended to land and take possession of the record that had been deposited in a cairn in Possession Bay by Sir John Ross, but I could not land, on account of the heavy sea prevailing at the time. I shaped the course for Cape Horsburgh. August 1st. — At noon we are in Lat. 74° 49' IST., and Long. 78° 36' W. We met a good deal of ice through which we pushed our way. taking advantage of the openings in this ice. In the evening we sighted Ciibourg Island, and steered for Lady Ann Strait. Friday, August 2nd. — At 1 a.m. we are passing Cobouvg Island. It is a very high and uneven island on the eastern jjart especially; near where there are two separate islands, one of which is like a cone. 48 CRUISE OF THE AECTIC At S ;i.m. \vc met the solid ice; the Jones Sound is covered with an immense mantle of ice, of one year formation. We are now in Lat. 76° 02' X., Long. 80° 10' W. From the crow's nest we could not see one iceburg in the sound, but the ice, which is perfectly smooth and scattered all over the sound, is covered with seals, basking in the sun. Having studied the progrannne before me and seeing that I could not go farther, I decided to go back, and shaped the course for Cobourg Island. At Cobourg Island we landed on a point that we named ' Edwards Point,' in honour of Senator Edwards. We took formal possession of the island with the usual formalities, I caused the flag of the Dominion of Canada to be hoisted and left floating on the island. We also biult a cairn on that point, in wiiicli 1 had a copy of the proclamation, printed below, deposited : — PR0C'L.\1IAT10X. To ^Vhom it may Concern: On this day I landed on Cobourg Island at point, and annexed this island and all adjacent islands, to the Dominion of Canada, per instructions received from the Canadian Government. We were going to Cone Island, and Ilavrefjord Inlet, to annex King Oscars' Land, and several other islands to the northwest of it, which were surveyed by Captain Sverdrup. We found Jones Sound and Glacier Strait still full of ice of last year's formation. I landed in North Lat. 75° 53', and Long. 79° 25' W., Point Edwards. J. E. Bernier, Commander. G. Hayes, Chief Officer. O. Jules Morix. 2nd. Officer. Geo. E. Laxxefieed, Photoqraplxer. C.G.S. 'Arctic' August 2nd, 1907. Cairn built on a point Lat. 75° 53' N., Long. 79° 25' W. August 2nd, 1907. J. E. Berxier. We returned on board and decided to proceed towards Port Leopold, to take back our cache, that we made there last fall. At noon we are in Lat. 75° 43' N. and Long. 79° 02' W., a lot of ice in sight. At 8 p.m. we passed Cape Horsburgh; the weather became a little foggy. We took soundings and found 420 fathoms of water. August 3rd. — We met a great number of patches of ice, through which we had to work our way; the wind was from the east, and we proceeded under sail all day. At noon we are in Lat. 74° 10' N., and Long. 87° 30' W. We have to stop on account of the fog. Sunday, August 4th. — Six a.m. the fog is clearing off, and Ave can see the high lands of North Devon; we proceed towards Port Leopold. At 4 p.m. we see the island, and I shape the course for the eastern edge. The fog sets in again. At 8 p.m. we are going slowly and taking soundings; we made the entrance of Port Burwell; the harbour was still full of ice, and we had to stop outside for the best part of the night. August 5th. — At an early hour we landed and took our depot of stores from the cache at Port Leopold, and we brought it on board. We left a record of our past and future movements, in the cairn on the island, and we proceeded for Cape Kater, in Prince Eegent Strait. The wind being fair, we had all the ship's sails set, and we were going at the rate of eight miles an hour; no ice visible along the eastern shore. At 8 p.m. we passed Port Bovin; we are sailing along the coast with a strong fair wind, keeping about six miles off the land. A.ugust 0th.— At 4 a.m. we are abreast of Cape Hay. The land in this neighbour- hood is about 400 feet high, but it diminishes in height as we go south. We saw Cape Kater bearing S.S.E., and we shaped our course for the cape; we are abreast of it at 8 p.m., about (3 miles off; we closed in upon the land and we kept on a little more to the southward, where we met the pack ice. We hold up under the shore. In the S.S.E. direction, about 15 miles off, we can see a little high lump, which ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 49 I named ' Senecal Mouiit.' The land is about 200 feet liigii and very straight ; towards the point the ice is resting on the land. At noon we are in Lat. 70° 50' X., and Long. 90° 25' W. ; in 30 fathoms of water. Seeing that the ice is close on the land and that I cannot go any farther at this time of the season, I have to return back to Port Leopold. It is calm, and the ice appears to be solid on the west side of us. We sail along the edg'e of this ice which is one year formation, and is in a decaying state. August 7tli. — Eeaehed Port Leopold this morning. At 8.45 a.m. I despatched two oificers to take soundings in the bay. Mr. W. H. Weeks, purser, Mr. Nap. Chasse, quarter-master, and myself went ashore and climbed on top of the hill to see the state of the ice, and we found that Barrow Strait was full of ice and that there were no passages opened in the ice in that direction. We also saw a large number of narwhales and white whales going along the bay, and especially to the westwards of where the Arctic is anchored, in a little stream that runs from the west, and from which we afterwards Jilled the ships fresh-water tanks. On the shore we saw the remains of several Eskimo huts and a large quantity of whale bones. The oificers returned on board during the evening. The ice had just commenced to enter in the bay with a light S.E. wind. During the night the ice came in in large cakes ; we got up steam on board and tried to escape, but we had to let go our second anchor to keep her from drifting in. Arigust 8th. — Thursdaj^ in the morning we let go our stream anchor with a large steel wire. A large piece of ice was across the bow and the ship started to drift, then we let go the two kedge anchors and put the ship full speed ahead on her engine. We seemed to cant the large piece of ice. We got the two big saws out and commenced to cut this ice ; we were still drifting, but after a while we started ahead, and in about one hour we were clear of that large piece of ice, and the ship was quiet. At noon the ice drifted out and we commenced to take in our wire and anchors. August 9th. — Eight a.m. We leave Port Leopold and we go towards the north. Meeting an immense field of ice we shaped our course towards North Devon, but we remained close into the ice until 12 p.m., when the ice slackened, and we then worked our way through. Saturday, August 10th. — We were going through clear water all forenoon. At noon we are in Lat. 73° 54' IST., and Long. 87° 43' W., there are 11 points of westerly variation on the compasses on board. It is fine, clear weather and the land is visible on both sides of the sound. Sunday, August 11th. — There is a large stream of ice into Croker's Bay as far as Cape Warrender. At 6 a.m. we are passing- Cape Warrender, mider sail, with west wind. We passed a small unknown island to the west of Cape Osborne, which is a low land. At noon we are in Lat. 74° 35' N., and Long. 79° 50' W., and are steering for De-Eoss Island. Several large icebergs in sight, some of these are grounded on a shoal to the west of Cape Horsburgh, we had to give a clear berth. Monday, August 12th. — At 1 a.m. we can see Cone Island, in a N.W. direction. Light breeze from S.W. with clear weather; there is more navigable water. We find that the ice is broken up and that there is open water as far as Cone Island. At 6 a.m. we are close to the island, and I sent the chief officer with instructions to build a cairn, leave a proclamation of possession and hoist the flag of the Dominion of Canada on the island. At 8 a.m. the chief officer returned on board, bring-ing some documents that had been left on that island by Capt. Sverdrup. After finding that the Jones Sound was still frozen and filled with ice of one year formation, we decided to proceed along Smith Island, towards North Lincoln Land. The wind starting, with snow, from the S.E. We effected a landing on North Lincoln Land, on a point which we named ' King Edward VII ' Point. Two officers landed with a proclamation claiming North Lincoln Land, King Oscar's Land, and the adjacent islands, dis- covered by Captain Sverdrup, as part of the Dominion of Canada ; the oificers deposited a copy of our proclamation on the island, and returned on board. We proceeded through Glacier Strait, towards Greenland. We met a good deal of old ice 4167—9 50 CRUISE OP THE ARCTIC and icebergs coming down from Smith Sound; this part of North Lincoln Land is mostly covered with glaciers, and it has a very wild aspect so early in the season. We fought our way through the ice during the night. PROCLAMATION. C.G.S. 'Arctic/ James Sound, August 12th, 1907. On this day we landed on this point, on North Lincoln, and annexed the following lands and islands : North Lincoln, Grinnell Land, Ellesmere Land, Arthur Land, Grant Land, King Oscar's Land, North Kent and several islands, namely, Axel Ileiberg Land, Amniund Ringnes Land, Ellee Ringnes Land, King Christian Land, formerly named Finlay Land; *North Cornwall, Graham Land, Buckingham Island, Table Island, and all adjacent islands as forming part of the Dominion of Canada. And I hereby annex the above named lands as part of the Dominion of Canada. •T. E. Berkier, C oramanding Officer. George Hayes, Chief Officer. O. J. MoRiN, Second Officer. WiNGATE LI. Weeks, Purser. North Lincoln Point, name King Edward VIL, Lat. 76° 19' N., Long. 81° 24' W. Bar 124° westerly inside east of Smith Island. Cairn on a small point red rock, solid, 12th August, 1907. J. E. Berxier. record. C.G.S. 'Arctic' Jones Sound, 1907. To Whom it may Ooncern: We landed on this island on this day and left this record. We are now going to annex North Lincoln and adjacent islands, in the name of the Dominion of Canada. From here we will return to Port Burwell, Labrador. J. E. Behnier, Commanding Officer. Geo. R. Lancefield, Photographer. Cone Island, Lat. 76° 20' N., Long. 81° 30' W. Bar 12.'5° westerly, 12th August, 1907. J. E. Bernier. August 13th. — At noon we are in Lat. 75° 24' N., and Long. 73° 20' W. During the evening the fog set in, but we saw no more ice, we kept going under reduced speed. There was a strong breeze from the S.W. at that time, with a heavy swell, which indicated that there is more open water beyond our locality. We passed several icebergs during the day. August 14th, — At noon we are in Lat. 74° 57' N., and Long. 69° 32' W. We could find no bottom with 200 fathoms of line. There is no ice in sight, but we cannot see very far on account of the fog. Thursday, August 15th. — Thick fog, wind to the southward. We meet some ice now and then, and we are steering according to the leads in the ice, making as much east as possible; this ice is of this year's formation. At noon we are in Lat. 74° 24' N., and Long. 65° 07' W. It was raining and foggy during the greater part of the day. Yfe took soundings at noon and had no bottom with 260 fathoms of line. Friday, August 16th.— Wind variable from S. to S.W., light; thick fog. We had no sextant observation to-day on account of the fog. Our position by account was Lat. 73° 05' N., and Long. 60° 45' W., no bottom at 160 fathoms. We are steering according to the leads in the ice, and now and then we pass a large iceberg. During the evening took soundings and found 160 fathoms, with a mud bottom. *North Cornwall was discovered in 1853, by Sir E. ^<^l^^^^7^^^^^^^^^^^^;~i^^,^^^^~^ ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 51 Saturday, August 17th. — We have a strong breeze from the S.E., it is accompanied with rain and fog at times. There is a heavy sea from the southward. At noon we are in Lat. 72° 10' N., and Long. 59° 53' W. The wind is very much increased this afternoon and we are under storm sails. Most of the members of the expedition were sea sick; the ship was rolling and she was quite lively, and again proved herself to be a good sea boat. Sunday, August 18th. — The wind was from the same quarters with thick fog and rain. At 10 a.m. the wind hauling more to the eastward, and we made sail towards the south. At noon we are in Lat. 77° 07' E"., and Long. 59° 30' W., by account. At 2 p.m. we meet the ice pack and we have to steer more to the eastward, following the edge of the ice. Quite a heavy sea is coming from the S.E. There was no Sunday service held to-day, as the stewards and the waiters were sea sick. There was a heavy breeze during the night, and the ship tossed about a good deal. Monday, August 19th. — The wind shifted to the northward this morning, it is accompanied with snow squalls; we, however, set sails, but the wind is baffling. At noon we are in Lat. 69° 49' N., and Long. 58° 30' W. The weather is bad and a heavy sea comes from the westward. The wind changes to S.W., but there is no ice in sight. Tuesday, August 20th. — Wind towards the S.E. All the fore and aft sails are set, and we are steering along the edge of the pack ice, which is pretty much decayed; fog sets in. After breakfast we took soundings ; we found 150 fathoms of water, with rock bottom. There was a beautiful sunset this evening; there is a lot of ice in sight. Wednesday, August 21st. — Foggy weather this morning; we meet an iceberg now and then. At noon we are in Lat. 65° 30' N., and Long. 59° 30' W., by account. At 4 p.m. there is more fog appearing; it gets very thick and we are obliged to put the ship under half speed. We take several soundings, but we find no bottom with 260 fathoms of line. Thursday, August 22nd. — We make sail just as the weather is clearing, and we follow a more westerly course through the pack. The leads in the ice are more open in the west, and we advance to take all possible advantage from those openings. At noon the sea is very smooth ; we take soundings in 178 fathoms of water, mud bottom. Friday, August 23rd. — At 8 a.m. we are in Lat. 64° 41' JST. ; at 4 p.m. the ice is very thickly packed. We moor the ship to a large pan of ice, and we fill the tanks with fresh water. Saturday, August 24th. — It is clearing up somewhat, and we make full steam towards Cobourg Island, which we make at noon, being N.W. by IST., the pack is so close that we are obliged to stop and watch for the favourable openings in the ice. Sunday, August 25th. — Weather foggy, with rain. We took soundings and found 81 fathoms of water, rock bottom. It is clearing up a little. Cobourg Island is bearing E.JST.E., three miles off. The ice being a little more open, we proceeded into Cumberland Gulf. The whole of Cumberland Sound is full of ice, and is not enticing; we are, however, working our way through as best we can. Monday, August 26th. — The ice slackened this morning and we proceed through the openings, after a good deal of squeezing and pushing, at 5 p.m., we were in the pack, about five miles from Kekerton, and no clear water was visible through the pack from the ship to the shore. We are drifting to the northward with the ice which is carried that way, by the strong southerly wind. Tuesday, August 27th. — Having been in the ice all night, we got up good steam and commenced the hard task of finding a passage. After four hours hard work the fog came on, and we were obliged to discontinue our task, at noon; Kekerton Harbour bearing east, four miles. Wind S.E. by E., strong, and we are going north- ward with the ice. We took soundings and did not have bottom with 260 fathoms of line. We bent three wires together, and we managed to get bottom at 605 fathoms, the bottom is of blue mud. Wednesday, August 28th. — The wind having moderated the ice slackened, the fog 4167— 9J 52 CRUISE OF T]IE ABCTTG lil'ti'd, nnd wo mado all speed towards the harbour, we had a pretty hard encounter with the ice. At 2 p.m. I sent Mr. George Plays, chief officer, on shore to ask the agent of the station, Mr. W. F. Milne, some information with reference to fishing and the general state of the surrounding covmtry. The officer returned on board with the news tliat Mr. W. F. Milne, the agent of the station, had died on the 13th of the present month, and from what he learned from the natives of that place the death occurred under suspicious circumstances. The wind increased from the southward, and not being able to enter the harbour, I was forced to steam out to the west again, to remain there all night. . During the evening, after consultation with the officers on board, I decided to hold an inquiry into the death of Mr. Milne, and also into the death of the former agent, Mr. Davidson, who had also died rather suddenly, two years ago. August 29th. — At 6 a.m. this morning several officers and the d(5ctor left the ship, ill two boats, and proceeded ashore to hold an inquest into the death of the two late agents, Mr. Davidson and Mr. Milne. The party went to Kekerton, about three miles from the ship, where they arrived at 8.30 a.m. They held the inquests and returned on board at 3 p.m. with the documents of both inquests, the results were both satisfactory, as we have discovered the cause of death in both cases. We then left for Blacklead. We took soundings and found COO fathoms of water, three miles off the shore. We forced our way through the ice at night. Friday, August 30th. — At 4 a.m. we are in sight of Blacklead Island Harbour. At 7 a.m. I landed on the island, and much to my surprise, I learned that the agent had left this station the year previous, in the fall. The natives came on board the Arctic, but we could not find anybody to give us the information desired, about the fisheries and other conditions of the surrounding country; these natives seem to have no knowledge of when the agent will come back to this statior). At 8.30 a.m. we got under way and proceeded southwardly along the coast, with fine and calm weather. We obtained a lot of fine photographs of the coast during the day. The navigator in these regions must, like the pilots of Bermudas, carr.y their charts in their head. At noon we are in Lat. 64° 52' N., and Long. 65° 35' W. There are many islands in this vicinity which are not marked on the chart. We took many photographs in this neighbourhood. Saturday, August 31st. — Weather calm. We proceed along the coast, which is studded with islands. At noon, b.y observation, we are in Lat. 63° 30' N., and Long. 63° 45' W., near an island which is not marked on the chart and which we named St. Joachin Island. We shaped our course for Lady Franklin Island. At 8.15 p.m., after having passed a very heavy belt of old ice, we passed Lady Franklin Island; the ice that we encountered before passing this island was the last ice in sight. At 10.50 p.m. we passed Monumental Island. There were a few scattered icebergs in sight. Sunday, Sptember 1st. — At 6 a.m. we are passing an island which is surrounded by a lot of icebergs on its shore. At noon we are in Lat. 01° 50' N., Long. 64° 01' W. There are eighteen icebergs in sight. We are going towards Hudson Strait. At 8 p.m. we are passing Cape Best, 6 miles off. Course is shaped for Button Islands. The fog set in, and while crossing the strait, during the night, we took the following soundings : 203, 405, 450, 490, 425 and 420 fathoms. Wlien the fog cleared off the Button Island was bearing S.S.E. Monday, September 2nd. — At 10 o'clock the last bounding we took was 401 fathoms. At 12 o'clock noon the fog cleared oS; we steamed full speed towards Port Burwell, where we arrived at 5.30 p.m. We dropped anchor in the outer harbour in 15 fathoms of water. The Moravian Brothers came on board, and brought a lot of newspapers and illustrated papers, for vrhich the members of the expedition were very thankful to them. We were somewhat disappointed, as we expected to receive some mail from home at this place. Everybody Avas very glad to be safe in the harbour and to enjoy a sound rest, which was certainly v.ell earned after, the ship was under way since July 27th last, and the officers and crew had to watch and watch. The ship was at anchor all night and everything was quiet on board ; the quarter-masters keeping the watch in turns. Xatites, Poet Bi'Rwkll. 9 5 4167—10 41(37— lOi *^^^,: ... . J*' p. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 53 CHAPTER VII. WORK CARRIED ON WHILE AT ANCHOR IN INNER PORT BURWELL. Tuesday, September 3rd. — After having matured our plans for the work to be done while we remain in this harbour, the second officer, some men and myself went to take soundings in the inner harbour of Port Burwell, which is a snug little harbour for three ships when properly moored. We took some red and some black biioys with us; we placed these buoys at the entrance of the inner harbour. After having completed taking the soundings and our work in the inner harbour we returned on board. Got under way at 11 a.m. and entered in the inner harbour. At noon we made the ship fast to some ring bolts that had been set in on the large stones by the Moravian Brothers. We let go an anchor ahead and one astern, and the ship was then as well secured as in a dock. We now only require some ballast before proceeding to sea. In the afternoon I paid my official visit to the Moravian Brothers. The natives of the place, which consists of 17 families, came on board to see the ship, during the evening. There is quite a contrast between the natives of this place and the natives from Pond's Inlet. The former are more civilized than the latter. This is the result of the good teachings they receive from the Moravian Brothers, who have been on this coast since 1771. This year they have built a fine church; this building includes the school-room and the living apartments of the missionaries; it has been erected at a cost of about $4,000. The missionaries have been kind enough to allow me to take some notes from the report of the official visit of the Governor of Newfoundland, in Labrador, and in this part of the country, in 1905. I herewith give an exact copy of the information extracted from the report, as follows : — EXTRACT EROM REPORT OF THE OEEICIAL VISIT OF THE GOVERNOR OF NEWFOUNDLAND TO LABRADOR. Extracts from the Report of His Excellency the Governor of Newfoundland, regarding Port Burwell and its Vicinity. Page 7. — Two other whaling stations were at work on the Labrador coast during the season now closed. Their catch has been respectively: — Messrs. Bowering. Messrs. Job. Labrador Company . Total. Value, Estimated. 3 20 14 2 24 16 57" 13 5 101 43 Hump Backs. 37 42 70 149 $42,318 During the 1904 season there were only the two first companies at work on the Labrador coast. They captured in that year 153 whales, valued at $73,440, approxi- mate. The great difference in value for the last season is due to the poor quality of the whales and to the fall in price of whale oil. From these fig-ures it would appear that the average value of a whale in 1904 was in round numbers $480 ; in 1905 it was only $280. 54 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Page 13. — On the 14th, in company with Commodore Paget, we had examined the northwest half of the Grenfell Channel or Tickle. This is a passage that leads through from the east coast, starting south of Cape Chidley, to the bay that lies on the east side of the Chidley Peninsula, opening some two or three miles south of Port Burwell. It is about two or three hundred yards wide, and supposed to be sufficiently deep to permit of the passage of large ships through it, thus avoiding the necessity of doubling the Chidley Peninsula. Mr. Reinold, Navigating Lieutenant of the Scylla, has, how- ever, after traversing the channel twice, reported one spot in it where the depth did not exceed two and a half fathoms. It is, therefore, necessary that it should be more fully examined before it can be considered safe for large vessels. Strong tides pass through the Grenfell Tickle. It seems to be navigated by small icebergs with more draught than any ship could have. It runs all the way between steep hills of bare rock. Although we were in the channel at the warmest period of the summer season, snow fell when we were there in the middle of the afternoon. It is about 8 or 10 miles long and would, if proved to be safe, be a decided gain for vessels passing between the Atlantic and Port Burwell or Ungava and Hudson Bays. Unfortunately, the weather was so unfavourable that we were not able to make a complete examination of this important passage, which would take some time on account of the probability of its containing some great boulders in its bed. Page 14. — The Rev. R. Waldmann and Mrs. Waldmann have been at Port Burwell about one year, but they have been fourteen years in Labrador in the service of the mission, without going on leave till this fall. The Rev. Mr. Stewart, of the Church of England Mission, laboured there for two or three years, but it was agreed between the two missions that the work at Killinek should be taken over by the Moravian Mission. This arrangement now leaves the whole population of the Labrador Innuit that are under the jurisdiction of Newfoundland, to the exclusive teaching of the Moravian Mission. The Innuit about this station are all natives of the east coast, that is natives of the Newfoundland dependency, with the questionable exception of one woman, who is from St. George's River. They are about middle size as compared with Europeans; are strongly built, but look shorter than they really are on account of the cut and quantity of their clothes. Page 1.5. — A half-breed couple, Mr. and Mrs. Lane, natives of Davis Inlet, reside at Port Burwell, where they have lived several years. They occupy the humble dwell- ing formerly tenanted by the Rev. Mr. Stewart. Mr. Lane arrived from Hudson Bay while we were in Port Burwell. He had been serving as interpreter on the Canadian Steamer Arctic with Major Moody, of the Canadian Mounted Police. They are a very intelligent and industrious couple and well acquainted with the country. Mrs. Lane makes very superior boots of seal skin, for which she manages to find a market. The foot consists of a kind of skin that is lighter in colour than the leg. The sewing is done with fine and strong threads of the sinew that is obtained from the loins of the caribou. Mrs. Lane, who is a resourceful and courageous women, has alone, killed more than one jjolar bear. The natives looked healthy and in excellent condition. They were always, whether occupied or not, warmly clothed in garments half European half native. They were then living in canvass tents, but will occupy huts of earth and stone during the winter. They catch considerable quantities of codfish in the neighbourhood, but no salmon or trout. Caribou are rare in that part of the country. Seals are common. It appears that the seals are shot sometimes by Winchester rifles and then harpooned. The natives still use walrus bone for making some parts of their spears or harpoons, but the points are of steel. They trap a number of white and red foxes, but the black or silver varieties are rare. There are sometimes large numbers of partridges on the peninsula. It is said that they pass here in the fall and spring in their migrations to and from Baffin's Land. The natives about Port Burwell retain more of their original manners and habits than do those about the other stations farther south. There is some approach towards individual or family rights to exclusive trapping or fishing over certain defined ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 55 localities, but they very frequently fisli or hunt in common. For example, a man named Kuber claims the Button Islands, the group that forms the southern side of the entrance to the wide channel that leads from the Atlantic to Hudson's Bay. They are utterly bare and barren, and are now unoccupied, and are rarely visited by natives. On the other hand, in more than one case, three or four men- hunt together over the same land. A father may or may not divide his rights among his sons. The eldest son is recognized as the head of the family. Women have no hunting or fishing rights. Unmarried sisters are provided for by their brothers. An intending bridegroom has to pay the father and mother for their daughter. No attempt whatever is made at any cultivation. There is no soil and if there were the climate would be prohibitive. An intending bridegroom has to pay the father and mother for their daughter. It has been ascertained that the payment in one case had been enough seal skins to make a tent. The bridegroom in this particular instance, however, obtained his bride on credit, and refused to pay afterwards. The natives are not very willing, it appears, to give information on such matters as these. But it seems that at Killinek payment is always made, at least among those not yet well under missionary influence. It was not found that any very distinct trace of totemism exists among them. One man had abandoned his wife and two children, and had gone to live with his half sister instead. But such a connection as this was said to be rare among the Innuit. This man had been forbidden by Mr. Waldmann to come to the station. One woman was seen there that had given birth to nine children. She has been twice married. Only one man in the community had two wives. Page 17. — I was informed by Mr. Lane that the' first cape westward from Port Burwell, some four or five miles is called Akkivut, and that the second cape is called Oivuk, and is perhaps some fifteen miles from Port Burwell. These were both visible from the bridge of the Scylla in Port Burwell. The Innuit of Killinek hunt and trap up to Cape Oivuk, and for about five miles beyond it. Mr. Lane asserted positively that no people other than the Killinek natives hunt or trap there. The traditions of the natives and the presence of a large number of graves on the Button Islands seem to show clearly that the group was formerly inhabited. These islands, varying in size from probably twenty or thirty square miles down to mere isolated rocks, rise to several hundred feet in height, and are divided apparently into a northern and southern group. They are merely detached patches of the Chidley Peninsula. The Killinek people do still occasionally hiint there, biit they cross over but seldom, on account of the dangerous nature of the intervening passage. The whole Chidley Peninsula seems to consist of a number of islands separated by a number of channels or tickles of deep water. It, like the Button group, appears to belong exclusively to the natives now about the Killinek station of the Moravian Mission. The Moravian station at Port Burwell is called Killinek, there are 48 natives, men, women and children in six families. Port Burwell is a good harbour, but is the only safe and easily accessible one, so far as is generally known on that part of the coast. The Honourable Captain Bland- ford, of St. John's, who spent several seasons about the Chidley Peninsula, says there are a few good anchorages in the channels on this part of the coast ; but they would require very careful examination before they could be used by a stranger. We cer- tainly saw no other place than Port Burwell that could be called a harbour. Captain Blandford established himself on the Chidley Peninsula and at Port Burwell some dozen or more years pgo. He transferred his interest in the latter place to Messrs. Job Brothers, of St. John's, three or four years since, and that firm in turn made over the station to the Moravian Mission. During that occunation, and up to only a few months ago, the Newfoundlanders living at Port Burwell believed themselves to be in the unquestioned jurisdiction of this colony; but the present dwellers there inform me that they have been told by Canadian officers that they will in future be called on to use the postage stamps of the Dominion and to pay Custom's dues to Canada. 56 CRUISE OF THE AECTIC Page 18. — The Moravian Mission does not pay any duty on goods imported by them into Labrador. I am informed by Mr. . LeMessurier that this privilege was allowed to them at first under an arrangement with the Imperial Government when Newfoundland was a Crown Colony. It is now permitted among the exceptions from Customs' dues under section 210 of the ' Customs Act,' as follows : Supplies, stores and donations for the Moravian Mission on Labrador and for the Deep Sea Mission under such rules and regulations as may be made by the Governor in Council. Even if Port Burwell were under any arrangement with this Government to pass into the possession of the Dominion, it is very improbable that the Canadian Government would really compel the mission to pay them Customs dues under the circumstances of the case. It is quite clear that the use of Port Burwell is required by each of the two governments for the development of their fisheries in those seas. Page 26. — The pay of an unmarried missionary begins at £11 a year. A married couple gets £18, and for each child £3 a year till the child is about seven years, when it is sent to school in Europe. Some slight increment is given after service extending over a certain number of years, so that a married couple may, I understand, receive as much as £22 to £25 a year. They collect no fees for marriage, baptism, funerals, &c. Out of this stipend the missionary has to find his clothes and other small necessaries, and has to purchase his breakfast, all except the bread. On this remuneration, cut off from the civilized world for two-thirds of the year; separated from their children; until lately all of them, and even now most of them beyond reach of a doctor ; exposed to the most rigorous climate in the world; deprived of such luxuries as change of society or of food; unable to procure such things as fresh vegetables or fruit; they remain at their posts, it may be, ten or twenty years without going on leave. These missionaries perform their work so quietly and unostentatiously that probably only very few people have the opportunity of according to them the respect and admiration that are due to their devoted labours, given with such remarkable self abnegation to a remote, isolated and decaying race, that seems to have before it only a doubtful earthly future. Page 28. — The mission is a large landed proprietor on the coast, at least nominally. In 1769 the King in Council granted in trust to the Unitas Fratrum (the Moravian Mission) 100,000 acres in Esquimaux Bay, at such places as the society might select, to occujiy and possess during His Majesty's pleasure. In 1774 the mission was per- mitted by order of the King in Council, to extend their settlement to the southward and northward of Nain, their first establishment, and to select 100,000 acres at Hope- dale, and apparently a similar area at Okak. In 1903 a grant was issued to the mission for 1,000 acres of land in fee-simple at Founder's Bight, Makkovik Bay. An applica- tion has been made recently for a grant at Llebron Ramah, or Killinek, although they have purchased rights at the last named place, as mentioned above. The object of the mission in obtaining these grants has been obtained, to settle the natives there, and to be in a position to keep at a distance undesirables of any class or colour. Judicial powers have not been granted to the mission, as seems to have been contemplated in connection with the original grants, and consequently the missionaries can only expel evildoers from the stations for' which they hold grants ; or in the case of church members, exclude them from communion or church ceremonies. Expulsion from a station, though rare, has not been quite unknown. Page 35. — The Moravian establishments for the coast was at the time of my arrival as follows: At ISTain, founded 1771, President Bishop Martin and Mrs. Martin, Trade Inspector Schmidt, natives 270. At Okak, founded 1776, Mr. Simon, Mr. Martin, Mr. Hilbig and their wives; Dr. and Mrs. Hutton, (a trained nurse on the way from England), natives 350. At Hopedale, founded 1782, Mr. Hettasch and Mr. Lens with their wives, and Mr. Guleby, store agent; natives 250. At Hebron, founded 1834, Mr. Asboi, Mr. Schmidt, Mr. Bohlman and their wives, natives 183. At Earcah, foimded 1871, Mr. Gericke and Mr. Filschke (not visited by me). At Makovik, founded 1899, Mr. and Mrs. Townley, natives 150. At Port Burwdl, founded 1899. Mr. and Mrs. Waldmann and Mr. Voisey, a settler; natives 48. This gives a total population of 1,251 under missionary care, without includino- ARCTIC ISLANDS AXD HUDSON STRAIT 57 Nachvak. This number comprises settlers, but not the tliirty heathen, who would belong to the Nachvak district. It would appear from the records of this colony that the Moravian Mission was invited to Labrador by Governor Hugh Palliser, of Newfoimdland, who in the pro- clamation of 8th April, 1765, says : ' I have invited interpreters and missionaries to go amongst them (the Indians on the coast of Labrador) to instruct them in the principles of religion, and to improve their minds and to remove their prejudices against us.' The name of the Moravian Mission probably presented itself in this coiuiection from the fact, no doubt well known to the Governor, that the Moravian John Christian Ehrhardt, who ' wished to cormnence a mission among the Eskimos in Labrador,' had, with five companions been murdered by the natives in 1752. It would also seem from the proclamation of 30th April, 1765 (Appendix D) that the mission was under the special protection of the King. By the Eoyal Proclamation of the 7th October, 1763, issued in conformity with the terms of the Treaty of Paris, the coast of Labrador was put ' under the care and inspection of our Governor of jSTewfoundland.' It is evident from this that the British Government lost no time in concerting the wise measvire of settling the mission on that coast. The attitude of the government towards the mission, and the terms on which they receive protection and grants of land, is sufficiently well shown in Governor Shuldham's proclamation of 17th March, 1774 (Appendix F). Page 36. — Of the many proclamations of that period connected with the coast of Labrador that east light on the relations that existed between the Governor of New- foundland and the mission, perhaps one of the most interesting and significant is that which emanated from Governor Shuldham on the 3rd August, 1774 (Appendix G), in an order addressed by His Excellency to the officer then in command of the garrison of twenty men at York Port at Pitt's Harbour, in Chateua Bay, where a detachment was kept all the year round in a strong blockhouse, erected in 1766, by command of the Iving, the principal object of which was the ' securing such boats and fishing craft as the fishers may leave there in the winter from being stolen or destroyed by either savages or banditti crews resorting to that coast from the colonies.' The extract given in Appendix G shows that when the coast of Labrador was transferred from New foundland to Quebec, there still remained on the oificer who was Governor of Newfound- land the official obligation ' that I do also countenance and pi'otect, as much as in me lies, the establishments formed under the King's autliority by the Society of the TTnitas Fratrum to the west of the straits of Belle Isle.' Prom this it appears that the df facto control and protection exercised by the Government of Newfoundland over the Moravian Mission and their charges on the coast of Labrador, were not interrupted by the temporary de jure iransfere of the coast to Quebec, a transfer which was thus manifestly not made on considerations con- nected with the native inhabitants of (he Labrador coast. It would seem, therefore, that from its first arrival on the coast to this day, the Moravian Mission, has, without break or interruption hsd ' the countenance and protec- tion ' of the Government of Newfoundland. It is a pleasant duty to record that the present government has recently given practical effect to this traditional policy, by grants of land, by exemption from Customs dues, and by a siibsidy to the hospital at Okak. Total exports from Labrador for 1905 : — Dry codfish — Direct shipments to market, qtls. 342,219 Shipped to Newfoundland,. . qtls. 392,393 Total Labrador catch qtls. 734,612, at $4 = $2,938,448 Salmon, tierces, 1,698 36,638 Trout, barrels, 159i 914 Cod oil, tuns, 67 4,840 Wliale oil, tuns, 11,016 11,018 58 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Whalebone, tuns, 269-J- $ 3,180 Furs 32,976 Seal skins 47 Lumber, feet, 4.593 48,823 Old junk 15 Seal oil, tuns, 25 1,500 Feathers, lbs., 1,432 187 Laths, M 4,120 $3,082,503 It may, therefore, be said that the exports from the Labrador coast amounted in 1905, in round numbers to three million dollars. It has, however, to be pointed out that the Labrador fishery was last season exceptionally good. The above figures would seem to show that practically, in round numbers, the Labrador coast will, this season at least, yield about half the export of dry cod from the colony. There need be no doubt that this fishery could be made more productive still by providing greater facilities for the prosecution of 'that important industry, and by pushing it further towards the north. In the above total there are included the Exports of the Moravian Church and Missionary Agency from Labrador, for the years 1885, 1895 and 1905. 1885. . 1895. 1905. Articles. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Codfish Trout Skin boots Seal oil Cod oil. Cod liver oil Furs... . Dry seal skins Salted seal skins Reindeer skins . Straw work and curios Feathers . . Salmon 2,689 qtls. 578 brls. 632 prs. 313 oks. 3 n 7 ., 16 „ 13 „ 14 „ 36 pgs. 37 tcs. $ 7,140 2,870 490 11,185 35 640 2,925 200 425 1,625 200 ""407' 2,994 qtls. 785 brls. 230 prs. 194 cks. 3 ,. 6 „ 6 pgs. 202 „ 4 M 5 tcs. S 8,135 3,720 437 6,120 118 375 1,750 196' 1,000 60 15 84 4,035 qtls. 798 brls. 3,224 prs. 353 pns. 41 M 3 „ 11 pgs. 5 M 7 11 5 >. 15 „ 12 „ 6 tcs. $ 21,149 4,788 5,849 7,200 910 96 7,000 100 200 800 150 150 50 Totals 28,142 22,024 48,442 Page 41. — 1. Improved steam communication. 2. Improved telegraphic communication. 3. Facilities for navigation. 4. The regulation of the river fishery. 5. The observance of close time for game and fur animals. 6. The prevention of forest fires. 7. More school accommodation, and more teachers for Europeans and ' settlers ' in the south. 8. Vaccination. 9. A legal prohibition against the renioval of the aboriginal natives from their own country. 10. Improved locomotion. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 59 Page 47. — In 1891 the question of the introduction of reindeer into Alaska was raised by Dr. Sheldon Jackson. The Esquimaux were threatened by extinction from want of food. White men had driven away the game or destroyed it, and had depleted the salmon iishery by netting the rivers. It was found that the residents of Eastern Siberia derived their subsistence chiefly from the reindeer, even to a greater extent than do the Laps. It was, therefore, deemed desirable that the reindeer should be introduced for the use of the Alaskan Esquimaux. Congress having refused to grant an appropriation for the purpose in 1891, $2,146 was raised by private subscription for the purchase of reindeer. With this sum 187 deer were brought from Siberia, with regular herdsmen, to whom a certain number of Alaskan Esquimaux were apprenticed as herdsmen and teamsters. From 1S92 to 1904, 1,280 deer were imported from Eastern Siberia to Alaska, and in 1904 the total number of fawns surviving was 10,267. In the official report of the Commissioner for Education, published 1905, it is stated: ' It is perfectly safe to predict, from the inspection of the annual per cent of increase, the doubling of the herd every three years.' All the female deer are preserved. The males are used as food or trained to harness. Allotments of 50 deer are made to those natives who underwent apprenticeship. Seven Lap families, on account of being more civilized than Siberians, were, in 1894, emijloyed to take charge of the Siberian deer in Alaska, and to teach the Esquimaux. Between December, 1899, and May 31, 1900, the United States ran a mail by reindeer, rmder contract, three round trips from St. Michael, at about 60° 30' north, across the Seward Peninsula to Kotzebue, which is inside the Arctic circle about 66° 50' north. Each round trip of 1,240 miles was successfully accomplished through an unbroken wilderness without a road or trail. Several relief expeditions to the far north have been successfully carried out by United States officers in Alaska by means of reindeer, when such expeditions would have been impossible by other means. A contract has lately been entered into to carry a regular winter mail over the 650 miles from Kotzebue to Barrow, the most northerly point of Alaska, about 71° 20' north. It is said that on these journeys ' when used in relays 50 miles apart, reindeer can transport the mails at a rate of 200 auiles a day.' In 1898 the United States Government imported from Lapland 538 head of choice reindeer trained to harness, 418 sleds and 411 sets of harness, a few herding dogs and 50 drivers, some of whom had families making in all 113 emigrants. These Lapland deer were not for breeding purposes, but only for harness. More than half of them died of starvation after reaching Alaska, as no moss had been provided for them. From 1894 to 1903 Congress has appropriated no less than $158,000 for the introduction into Alaska of domestic reindeer from Siberia. It has been found that ' with carefid training the Eskimo make excellent herders.' It is thought that in 35 years there may be 35,000,000 reindeer in Alaska, with an export of 5,000 carcases a year. The deer purchased in Siberia from the Chunchus, cost $4 a head, from the Tungusc, $7.50 a head. It is stated by Mr. Gilbert H. Grosvenor that ' the tame reindeer of Siberia is practically the same animal as the wild caribou of Alaska, changed by being domesticated for centuries.' This corresponds with the general view of English zoologists, that there is but a single species of reindeer, but presenting local pectdiari- ties. It appears that the Alaska deer is not equal to the Lapland deer in strength or speed. A pair of the latter can pidl a load of 500 or 700 lbs., at the rate of 35 miles a day, and keep this up for weeks at a time. Mr. Armstrong states that a single deer can draw 600 lbs., on a sled 30, 50 and even 90 miles a day. It is said the Lapland deer can in point of speed do 150 to 200 miles a day, and sometimes 20 to 25 miles down hill in one hour. The Alaskan reindeer express has been driven at a rate of 95 miles a day. Reindeer can travel as well at night as in the daytime. In Siberia a caravan of 160 sleds is managed by ten men. In summer a reindeer can carry as a fair load, a pack of 150 lbs. A good deer can easily carry a fair sized man. The reindeer cow gives about one teacupful of very rich milk, nearly as thick as the best cream, which makes delicious cheese. Labrador seems to be so favourably situated for this animal that the introduction of the domestic reindeer there would hardly partake the nature of an experiment. The caribou is at home on Baffin Land to the north and is found even up to Grinnel Land 60 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC and Grant Land, in 82° north, and it is a native of the whole Labrador coast from Chidley to Chateau Bay, and as far south as 47° north, in Newfoundland. There need, therefore, be no doubt that either the Lapland or Siberian reindeer would thrive either in Newfoundland or on the Labrador coast. There can hardly be any question that both climate and food are suitable. It would be an easy matter for natives or residents of Labrador who are accustomed to handle dog sleighs, to learn to handle reindeer. American experience would seem to leave the question open as to whether reindeer should be imported from Siberia, from the Tunguse, or from Lapland. They might not be procurable from Alaska. But it seems clear that the teachers should be Laps. The Americans found that deer stand a sea journey remarkably well. Immense herds of reindeer could be run on the Labrador territory, enough to supply the population of that coast with food, to provide them with a means of travel, and to furnish a valuable export. By means of a reindeer post communication could be kept up easily all winter from one end of Newfoundland to the other, and along the whole length of the Labrador coast. Appendix F. By His Excellency Molineiix Shuldham, Esq., Governor and Commander in Chief. A Proclamation. Whereas His Majesty in Council has been pleased to grant unto the Unitas Fratrum and its society, for the furtherance of the Gospel among the heathen, a parcel of land on the coast of Labrador for the establishment of a mission among the Esquim_aux savages ; and whereas it has pleased His Majesty in Council to permit and allow the missionaries of the said Unitas Fratrum to extend their said settlements to the southward and northward of their present location and occupy and possess during His Majesty's pleasure such tracts of land as may be found necessary for the purposes of the undertaking; provided such tracts of land shall not exceed one hundred thousand acres to the southward of Nain, and one hundred thousand acres to the northward of Nain, and the spots so to be chosen by the said missionaries for their settlements be such as may in no respects interrupt any of the fisheries carried on upon the said coast of Labrador. Therefore be it known unto all men that their said settle- ments are under His Majesty's immediate protection, and I do hereby strictly enjoin all His Majesty's subjects to live in amity and brotherly love with the said settlers and the native savages inhabiting that country, in no wise whatever molesting or disturbing the said mission or those who shall settle with them. And I do require that all His Majesty's subjects who shall come upon the coast of Labrador do act toward the Esquimaux Indians agreeable to the proclamation signed at St. John's the 24th June, 1772, respecting the savages inhabiting the aforesaid island and coast. Given under mj' hand at London, 17th March, 1774. M. Shuldham. By His Excellency's command, Edavard Bp.aggs. Appendix G. And whereas the Eight Honourables, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty have been pleased to signify to me that the Earl of Eoehford, one of His Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State, hath acquainted them by his letter of the 16th of June last, that a Bill hath been under the consideration of and has passed both Houses of Parliament, by which the coast of Labrador (made part of the Government of New- foundland by the Eoyal Proclamation of the 7th of October, 1763), is re-annexed to the Govermuent of Quebec, in consequence of which regidation, when the Act shall have passed all authority on that coast given to me in my capacity as Governor will cease; but that it is His ilajesty's pleasure that T do, as commander of the ships employed ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 61 for the protection of the fisheries, superintend those on the Labrador coast as well as those of Newfoundland. And that I do in a particular manner give all possible encouragement and protection as well to the seal and seal cow fisheries, as to the cod fisheries carried on by the King's subjects from Great Britain on such parts of the coast as are not claimed as private property under regular Canadian titles, and that I do also countenance and protect as much as in nie lies, the establishments formed under the King's authority by the Society of the Unitas Fratrum to the westward of the Straits of Belle Isle. You are hereby required and directed to take particular care that His Majesty's pleasure in regard to the several particulars aforementioned be strictly complied with as far as is dependent on yovi as Commander of York Fort. M. Shuldham, 3rd August, 1774. Governor. Page 43. Facilities for Navigation. The navigation of the coast would be very considerably facilitated by the erection of a certain number of beacons at prominent points, and by marking some of the cliffs and rocks with paint, &c. The services of a small steamer for a single season could do much in carrying this out. At present some half dozen to half a score of harbours have been surveyed on the coast. It would be of much advantage if these could be connected by a surveyed or marked track. It appeared also that good photographs of the coast outline at certain places would be of much use, especially to the stranger. Appendix O. Temperature Obser^^ations at Port Burwell, taken by the Eev. M. Waldmann, from 8 to 9 a.m., from 1st December, 1904, to the 17th August, 1905. Fahrenheit Scale. Day of Month. Dee., Jan., Feb., March, April, May, •June, July, August, 1904. 1905. 1905. — 15 1905. 180 1905. 1905. 1905. 1905 1905. 1 50 10 15 290 43 48-0 46 2.. 8 8 10 -150 — 40 — 20 — 9 7 1 18 15 — 9-0 21 160 15 290 34 27 35 38 36 480 450 440 63 48 50 3.. 4 10 — 17 — 110 280 250 33 380 45 6 8 — 8 - 90 310 32 .52 51 — 1 — 80 --10 — 80 350 290 28 .54 39 8 — 8 50 — 4 340 .30-0 32 60 39 9.. —12 —28 —21 00 — 10 — 20 3 20 19 320 37 32 31 .33 310 35 39 .30 400 35 42 39 38 41 10 11 12 - 8 -12 11 300 240 28 450 41 13 - a —120 310 23-0 39 380 34 14.. - 8 2 — 1 — 12 — 10 -12 5 10 — 4 30 — 80 310 33 .30 250 200 300 31 33 33 380 380 580 40 39 42 (1 15.. 16 17 — 1 — 2 — 20 — 10 — 8 5 -12 — 15 330 29 350 32-0 32 47 510 510 34 18 19 - 9 -10 — 30 — 7'0 - 5 - 8 -12(1 — 12 18 180 27-0 270 40 40 45 500 20 21 — -11 - 80 — 13 —15 -13 — 12 30 310 29 350 33 34 35 54 44 22 23 —19 — 20 - 8 50 31 360 32 39 24. —20 —12 ^-17 —10 — 2 8 10 240 30 33 34 45 34 39 450 480 25 26 — 6 —10 15 210 .31-0 34-0 56 u 57-0 27 — 5 -17 28 180 34 36 41 600 28 —11 00 18 190 .34 50 46 700 29 — — 1 — 9 10 4 — 50 180 240 27'0 31 29 28-7 "'32-0' 340 50 38 380 620 63 30 31 ' ■ Mean — 5 3 - 8-2 1-6 4-4 31-4 37 1 486 42 9 62 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Kesltlts of Temperatin-e Observations taken by Mr. Holwatscheek, Missionary of the Moravian Mission, at Eebron, during the year 1891. Centigrade and Fahrenheit Scales. Mean Temperature, Centigrade. .January . . . February. . March April .... May .June July August. . . . September October . . . November . December. . -20-5 -2B-.5 13-5 - 8-5 - 0-6 4-3 9-2 8-2 3-5 - 3-2 - 7-0 -149 Mean Temperature, Fahrenheit. Wednesday, September 4th. — Fine, clear day, with west wind. We went up on the high hills and we looked towards the strait; we could see no ice but an iceberg. We had a general view of the bay to the west of the harbour; there is a rocky bar in this bay, and this bar dries up at half tide. This place was formerly an open channel, but the old pioneers of the place say that the ice has carried and deposited stones which now bar the entrance of this little channel. Mr. Joe. Lane, a native of the place, who has been employed by the N. W. M. P. for the last three years, says that it would be very much more convenient to the natives if the stones were removed from this bar and thus allow them to cross with their boats, and communicate from side to side according to the tide. I noticed that the tide rises ciuicl\er in the harbour than it does on the west side; there is a difference of about one foot in the level of the water on the other side of the bar and that in the harbour, this creates a current running to the west during the last quarter of the flood tide. Some of the crew was employed taking ballast from the bar. The chief engineer emptied the ship's boilers, to clean them while we are in the harbour. The chief officer has been directed to go up on one of the high hills in order to see, occasionally, about the condition of the ice in the strait, and report on board. I have engaged Mr. Joe. Lane, the native, as a guide and to help me to explore this port and its surroundings and to look for a suitable harbour on the west side of Cape Chidley. Mr. James Duncan, Customs oificer, Mr. Jack Simpson, Customs clerk, went to the Moravian Brothers' Mission to collect the Customs dues on dutiable goods landed there for the missionaries ; I was led to believe that these missionaries are not subject to pay the Customs dues. The Customs officer took an inventory of what goods there were at the mission. The ship's draught to-day is iG" 2" forward and 18' 6" aft. Thursday, September 5th.— Beautiful day with light wind from the S.W. At 3 a.m. Mr. W. H. Weeks, purser, Mr. George Lancefield, photographer, Mr. Nap. Chasse, quarter-master, and myself went to mark a place for the proposed lighthouse on the S.W. corner of the entrance of Port Burwell. After having gone some distance we selected a place on which we erected a cairn on the spot where it is our intention to ask the Government to build a light, on our return. After dinner we went to inspect the bay which we call the S.E. Bay, where the steamer Adventure has landed some coal for the use of the N. W. M. P., in 1906. We found about forty tons of coal at this place. Friday, September 6th. — Weather bad, squalls accompanied by rain. The crew is taking in some ballast from the rocky bar ; Rev. Mr. Schmidt, the General Super- intendent of the Moravian Brothers, asked me if I would take all the stone ballast possible from this passage, which if cleared would be very useful to the natives. The ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 63 weather cleared up during the afternoon, the wind changed to the northward, the remainder of the day was fine and clear. Two members of the expedition went fishing and brought back about 180 fine codfish, which were very much appreciated by crew and all ofiicers of the expedition, who were very glad of the change of diet it furnished. I have given orders for two members of the crew to be sent fishing every day for codfish while we are in this harbour. Saturday, September 7th. — Made the general inspection of the ship, every part of the vessel was found in good order, the machinery and boilers are also in good order. We want some more ballast on board, to make up for the coal that we will use here- after. It was high water full and change, to-day, at 9.22 a.m., the tide rose about 16 feet. I gave the men a half holiday, so that they could go ashore and take some exercise. Sunday, September 8th. — Heavy fog prevails outside of the harbour. We held service on board at 10.30 a.m. I was invited to dinner at the Moravian Mission. Eev. Mr. Waldmann is the local minister, Mr. Schmidt is the general superintendent, and Eev. Mr. McKillin is the trafiic manager. Kev. Mr. Waldmann has his wife with him at the Mission. I was given a good deal of information from the Moravian Brothers about the Labrador coast and about the natives and their customs. I invited the ministers to tea on board, and they passed the evening with us; we all spent a very sociable hour together. Monday, September 9th. — Thick fog, with light rain at intervals ; we sent down the royal yard. At 10 a.m. the fog lifted somewhat. I went with two men to take soundings in the inner harbour and to place some buoys to indicate the rocky patches; came back on board for supper. The chief officer reports that no ice can be seen from the high hills, but that there are two large icebergs in outer Port Burwell. The pieces of ice breaking oft' these two icebergs are carried in this harbour with the flood tide. Tuesday, September 10th. — After breakfast I went out with Mr. Joe. Lane and four members of the crew, to take soundings in Munroe Harbour, which is about one mile from Port Burwell; it is a narrow inlet, with good depth of water, where one or two ships could be well secured to winter in there if necessary. Some Newfoundland steamers moor in that inlet during the month of August, when they come to fish for codfish. The fishermen have been very successful lately, as there was a large supply of fish this year. The abundance of fish is due to the absence of ice; this year the place has been exceptionally clear of ice. Several photographs were taken for future reference. Wednesday, September 11th. — I went out with the two quarter-masters, to locate the place where to build some day beacons for the entrance of the outer and the inner harbours. We took soundings in the outer harbour, in line with the proposed day beacons, and we found from 8 to 15 fathoms of water. Thursday, September 12th. — We had an early breakfast. Messrs. W. H. Weeks, George Lancefield, Joe. Lane, two sailors aad myself went out in the big boat at 5.30 a.m., to take soundings in McLean Strait, and we went right through to the east side of Cape Chidley. Only one rock where a ship could ground was found; it is about two- thirds of the way, in the middle of the strait. There is a tide ripple which rises over this rock. A range of beacons on the opposite shore would mark its place very well. The tide is very strong on the western entrance, but is more regular on the eastern side. The day was beautiful, and Mr. Lancefield took many photographs during the trip. We ran about 45 miles during the day. We arrived back on board at 7.30 p.m. Friday, September 13th. — Wind N.W., weather fine and clear. There is no ice visible from the high hills. I went with the quarter-masters, the carpenter and two waiters, to build a wooden range for direction to the best anchorage in the outer harbour. The IST.W. wind had the effect of raising the water about 18 feet to-day. We returned on board after having built the two cairns. Saturday, September 14th. — Rain with wind from the S.W. At 11 a.m. general weekly inspection of the ship, everything was found clean and in good trim. I received the meteorological observations for the year 1906-7, from the Moravian 4167—11 64 . CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Brothers, as taken during that time in Port Bnrwell. From the information I can gather, this port is open for navigation from about the 13th of July to the 15th of November, each year. Sunday, September 15th. — There was a little snow with S. wind to-day. Service was held both at the mission and on board at 10.30 a.m. I am informed that all the natives go to the mission every Smiday. The Moravian Brothers deserve much credit for the way they look after the natives. They are taught to be clean, they have better houses, they live more like civilized people, and follow the teachings of Christians. Several of the members of the expedition went ashore during the afternoon to take exercise. Monday, September 16th. — The wind has changed to the N.W. The chief officer reports that no ice is yet to be seen from the high hills, on top of which he goes regularly for this purpose. I went out with the carpenter and three of the sailors to build another cairn in the outer harbour ; after building this cairn we applied a coat of white paint to it. Quarter-master Chasse killed some ducks which he brought on board. I gave leave of absence to some of the men to go and help to finish the building of the Moravian Church, the other men on board were employed taking some ballast. Tuesday, September 17tli. — Wind from the eastward, weather clear, but from the top of the high hills it can be seen that the strait is full of fog. I went ashore with the carpenter and two men to build a cairn in line with the steeple of the Moravian Church, thus forming a range of marks to come inside of Port Bnrwell. We loaded this cairn with stones and gave a coat of red paint to it. We returned on board for dinner. Wednesday, September 18th. — Wind from W.N.W., we are preparing to go to Port Harvest Tlnirsday, September 19th. — Strong S.E. wind and snow during the night. At 8 a.m. the wind is still stronger and it is raining. We trimmed the ballast in the hold to-day, and different other works were carried on by the crew. The day was very dark, and we could not see at any distance from here. Friday, September 20th. — At 6 a.m. left with Joe Lane and three men, in boat No. 3, and we took soundings inside of the island forming Port Harvey. The tide is very strong at this place, about 6 knots an hour with the flood tide and about 7 knots with the ebb tide, and for this reason Port Harvey is not a suitable harbour to shelter vessels, though there is a good anchorage in the inner part of the harbour, in about 15 to 20 fathoms of water. I, however, built some cairns as leading marks to go into this harbour. We took several photographs during the day. We arrived on board at 8 p.m., having done a good day's work. Saturday, September 21st. — Strong gale from the S.E. Three heavj' icebergs came in and grounded in the outer harbour. I consider this dangerous for ships which should be lying outside of the harbour when these floating icebergs are drifting about. Mr. W. H. Weeks, purser, and myself made a list of the goods which we are to land at this place, in case of shipwreck in the vicinity. At 1 p.m. the general inspection of the ship was made; all quarters are in perfect order and tidy. Sunday, September 22nd. — Weather fine and clear. At 10 a.m. the service was held on board and at the Mission. It was very pleasant to hear the church bell this morning, it reminded us of home; it is very impressionable to see the natives and everybody hurrying to the service, to pray in community once a week, to thanls: God for the favours He has bestowed upon us during the week. Some of the members climbed on top of the high hills to see if there was a vessel coming, as it was expected to come with some mail for the expedition. In the afternoon I paid a visit to the Moravian Brothers and remained there for tea. I returned on board at 8 p.m. Monday, September 23rd.— Fine and clear weather. At T a.m. we left to survey the Eskimo passage, which we found to be only five miles in length. There are two small brooks running at its head; they run from two lakes, which are about one-half mile in_ length. A chain of mountains, about 1,000 feet high run E". and S, these mountains start from Cape Chidley. We took several soundings in this vicinity We ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 65 were hicky to kill some ducks during the day, we also killed a few pig-eons. There is quite a tide running in and out of this passage. Thursday, September 24th. — Strong gale from the S.E., -with rain. I have made arrangemients with the Moravian Brothers to take care of the provisions which we intend to land before our departure. After inspecting the upper part of the church, I concluded that it was a very suitable place to leave the provisions in. Wednesday, September 25th. — Wind blowing hard from the S. The men are getting ready to land the stores, the preparation took the greater part of the day. Thursday, September 26th. — Wind still to the south, with rain; the barometer is very low, indicating that there is a gale raging not very far from this port. Four of the men have rheumatic attacks and influenza. I have engaged Joe Lane to replace one of the sailors, whom the doctor said, will not be able to go on duty for about one month. Friday, September 27th. — Wind is changed to the north this morning.. Snowing. We are landing the stores, which we are leaving here in case of shipwreck in this neighbourhood, and placing them in the upper x^art of the Moravian Church. The total weight of this cache is about 12,000 pounds. Saturday, September 28th. — It is snowing and the wind is from the north. At inspection the ship was found to be in good order. I went ashore to see Eev. Mr. Schmidt, with regard to some information about this port. The men were off for a half holiday this afternoon. Sunday, September 29th. — There is a strong breeze from the north, the weather is clear and cold. Ice is making in the harbour. Sunday service was well attended this morning. In the afternoon I went on shore, on the request of Rev. Mr. Waldmann and Eev. Mr. Schmidt, to see about the case of a native who has two wives. I told the native that I would be glad to meet him to-morrow about this matter, after telling him that it was contrary to the laws of the Government of the Dominion of Canada to have two wives. Monday, September 30th. — Strong wind from the west. There is no ice visible from the high hills. Filled the fresh-water tanks on board, and the ship is ready to go at any moment. At 10 a.m. I went to the mission to meet the Eskimo to whom I referred yesterday as having two wives. After consultation with the mother and the two brothers of the last adopted wife, I informed him that his second wife's parents were willing to provide for her if he would let her free, he agreed to do this on the condition that her mother would provide for her as long as she did not get married; the mother promised to do this. A written contract of this was made by Rev. Mr. Waldmann and Rev. Mr. Schmidt; this agreement was signed by the husband, the two wives, the mother and brother of the last wife, and the two missionaries. Ever,ybody was satisfied except the first wife, who cried when she saw the other one leaving her. KILLI^•EK, Labrador, September, 190Y. J. E. Bernier, Esq., Commanding Ofiicer, C.G.S. Arctic. Dear Sir, — As we have an Eskimo here who has taken to himself lately a second wife, we have endeavoured to persuade him to separate again from his second woman, but without avail. As we possess no lawf^il jurisdiction and are therefore unable to proceed further in the matter, we ask you kindly to attend to the same, and we should be very glad if the matter was cleared up during your stay here, as we fear that if nothing is done the pernicious example may induce other natives of our community to act similarly. Hoping that this may not give you much trouble, I am, your obedient servant, (Signed) Ciis. Schjiidt. 4167— llj Panjinge. X Lucy. X Ikiage. X JKalasen. X / Pangortor. s 66 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC KiLLixEK, Labrador, September SOtli, 1907. An agreement made this 30tli day of September, between Captain J. E. Bernier, of the S.S. Arctic, and Panjinge, native Eskimo, resident at Port Burwell, that he undertakes to leave Lucj', his second unlawful wife. The mother of the said Lucy agrees to keep her daughter henceforth, she being in this manner fully provided for. The two brothers, Kalasen and Pangortor, also agree to supply, if necessary, and furnish sustenance to the said second wife. As Lucy, the woman in question, is expecting a child, the said man Panjinge, as well as the woman's brother, agree to look after and furnish it with all the necessaries of life until she should marry again. Ikiage, the mother of the said woman, Lucy, agrees to look after and to keep custody of her daughter the said Lucy as well as her child as long as she does not niarrv again. (Signed) Brothers of Lucy. Witnesses : ,7. E. Bernier, Commander S.S. 'Arctic' Chs. Schmidt, ) nr- • T. Waldmann. ) S. VOICEY. Tuesday, October 1st. — Wind from the S.W., with rain. I sent some of the men to take some codiish, but they returned without an3% saying that the fish had evidently left the locality as they could not catch any after fishing for some time; it is to be hoped that the absence of the fish is only temporary, as it is well liked on board. At 6 p.m. wind veered to the nortli and there v/as a little snow for some time. Wednesdaj^ October 2nd. — Weather calm, fine and clear. I gave orders to raise steam, to get to the outer harbour. At 2 p.m. we went out and anchored in 11 fathoms of water, in line with the range built by us for this harbour. At 4 p.m. we went to lift the inner harbour buo5's, we placed them on shore, and left them in charge of Eev. Mr. Waldmann. Thursday, October 3rd. — Strong southerly wind, with cloudy weather. Snow fell and covered the hills inland, the country has a winter appearance. We again filled the fresh-water tanks on board. We left our mail in charge of the Missionaries. The wind increased to a gale and we were obliged to drop both anchors, we rode out the blow during the night. Friday, October 4th. — The wind is still blowing from the south, but more moderate. Hove one anchor. Eev. Mr. Waldmann and Rev. Mr. Schmidt came on board to say good bye. They gave us their mail to be mailed by us on our arrival at Quebec. •We are now ready to leave. Some of the members of the expedition went fishing this afternoon, and they brought back a few codfish, but they say that they had to go farther off the shore to catch these fish. The following is a copy of the memorandum prepared by Mr. James White, Government Geographer, with reference to the jurisdiction of Canada at Port Burwell : — Memorandum Bespecting the Jurisdiction of Canada in Port Burwell, N.W.T. The charter of the Hudson's Bay Companj' granted the sole trade and commerce of all the seas, straits, bays, rivers, lakes, creeks and sounds, in whatsoever latitude ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 67 they shall be, that lie within the entrance of the straits, commonly called Hudson's Straits, together with all the lands and territories upon the countries, coasts, and confines of the seas, bays, lakes, rivers, creeks and sounds aforesaid, that are not actually possessed by or granted to, any of our subjects, or possessed by the subjects of any other Christian Prince or State. Act 49, George III., Chap. 27, A.D. 1809, enacts that the coast of Labrador, from the river St. John to Hudson Strait and the Island of Anticosti and all other small islands annexed to the Government of Nev.'foundland by the proclamation of October 7th, 1763 (except the Islands of Madeleine) shall be separated from Lower Canada and reannexed to Newfoundland. Act 6, George VI., Chap. 59, A.D. 1825, in general terms, re-transferred the north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Anticosti to Quebec. From the foregoing it is evident that Canada, in acquiring the rights of the Hudson's Bay Company acquired all the territory draining into Hudson Bay and Straits ; that is, all inside the entrance to Hudson Strait. Ou the other hand, the Imperial Act of 1774 (Quebec Act), 1809 and 1825, and the Eoyal Proclamation of 1763 all refer to the coast of the mainland from Cape Chidley southward, showing the legal advisers of the Crown were advised that the territory covered by these Acts and the Proclamation of 1763, did not include any territory to the west of Cape Chidley — the entrance to Hudson Strait. As Port Burwell is inside the entrance to Hudson Strait, it is undoubtedly in Canadian territory and is to the west of the extreme claim of Newfoundland, which does not include any territory to the west of the watershed of the rivers that fall into the Atlantic between Cape Chidley and the Strait of Belle Isle. (Signed) James White, Geographer. It is high water full and change at 9.25 o'clock. The water rises 19 feet in spring tides, and 111 feet in neap tides. It is the best sheltered harbour in the neighbourhood, it is also the easiest of access. With a lig'ht at the mouth of the entrance, there would be no difficulty for a stranger to find the harbour, and it would make a fine place of call for vessels coming in or going out. At present the eastern part of Ungava Bay has not been surveyed; it is studded with unknown islands, even the Button Islands are more numerous than what they are on the chart. It requires skilful navigation on account of the strong tide coming in and out of the strait, the soundings are very deep even close to the shore; a sharp look-out has to be constantly kept and the position very accurate. There is only one strait that runs out of IJngava Bay to the ocean; it is called McLelan Strait, in which a very strong current runs during the latter part of the tide. ISTo vessels should attempt to go through this strait without the aid of a local pilot. There is a rock about three-fourths of the way east- ward on which a vessel would be liable to touch, but there is sufficient room to pass on either side. There are two places where a vessel can safely anchor. In Gray Strait there are three harbours: Port Harvey, St. Lawrence O'Brien and Lady Job Harbours, the last named is inside of Cape Chidley Island. When the ice is running it is very difficult to enter in these harbours, and Port Burwell is far safer than any of them. The codfish abounds on this side of ITngava Bay during the months of August, September and the first part of October ; seals are plentiful in the fall and the spring ; no whales have been caught here for some time ; no herring has ever been seen here; salmon trout is reported to be existing at the mouth of the river. The best time to leave Port Burwell to go eastward is to leave one hour before high water, and to go westward half ebb tide. This port has been visited by several steamers, the Dominion Government steamers, the Newfoundland Government steamers, the Moravian steamer Harmony, Eevillon Brothers' steamer, Hudson Bay Company's steamers, Newfoundland sealing steamers and Dr. Greenfelt's steamer Strathcona. In 1904 the Moravian Brothers have bought from Messrs. Job Brothers, of Newfound- land, their fishing and trading establishment. This year the missionaries have built 68 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC a church in which the school room and the living apartments of the Moravian Brothers have been made, it is quite a credit to the missionaries. The fishing and trading establishment which was purchased by the missionaries was formerly con- ducted by Mr. Joe Lane, as agent for Messrs. Job Brothers, of Newfoundland; Mr. Joe Lane is now employed by the government. By having a wireless telegraph station at this place or in the neighbourhood it would be very useful for vessels entering or going out of the strait; to know the state of the ice before entering, because the ice is much influenced by the wind, and vessels should know which is the clearest side to enter. There are seventeen families of natives at this place. They are under the direc- tion of the Moravian Brothers, with whom they exchange their fish and skins for food and other necessaries of life. They receive medical assistance from Eev. Mr. Wald- mann, who has followed some courses of medicine. Port Burwell is not so isolated as it may appear, because the mail reaches the Mission monthly, during the summer, by the coast of Labrador, and twice during the winter overland with dog sledges. Saturday, October 5th. — Julisu alias Joe Lane, the native engaged to replace one sick sailor on board has brought his efl^ects on board to-day. ( ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 69 CHAPTER VIII. VOYAGE FROM PORT BURWELL TO QUEBEC. Saturday, October 5th. — Wind light, from the S.E. Hove anchor and proceeded in the strait.. At 10 a.m. we are abreast of Button Islands and are going- across the strait towards Resolute Island. Took a few soundings; there is no ice in sight. We kept going in the same direction all day. Wind from the soiith, afterwards increased to a strong gale and we hove with her head to the eastward. She rolled very much on account of the cross sea, which is actuated by the current. Sunday, October 6th. — Blowing a heavy gale from the S.W. There is no ice field, but there is an iceberg in sight. We take soundings and find 260 fathoms of water, but we cannot do any accurate sounding with such rough weather as is now prevailing. It rained most of the day. The greater number of the members of the expedition are sea siok and we find that this is the most miserable day that we have experienced since our departure. During the night the wind shifted to the westward, and we put her head to the westward by the wind. Monday, October 7th. — Chief engineer reports that there are only 75 tons of coal left on board, and that it is not prudent to remain here any longer with such a small quantity of coal at this time of the year. We took more soundings, but we could not get the bottom on account of the ship drifting so fast that we could not pay out the line quick enough to prevent it trailing. At noon we are in Lat. 60° 1.5' N., and Long. 62° 52' W. The wind veered to the southwest. We steamed against the wind during the night. Tuesday, October 8th. — We saw a few icebergs along the coast. The wind has moderated and is holding more to the westward. We set some fore and aft sails, to keep the boat steady. During the night the wind changed to the northward. Wednesday, October 9th. — At daylight it is blowing a strong gale, with snow, from the northward. We are running under top sails and fore sails. There is thick snow falling. At noon our position by observation is Lat. 54° 22' IST., and Long. 58° 51' W. Weather cleared up by 2 p.m. We set our gallant sail and the main storm sail to keep the ship steady. We passed a good many icebergs during the day. Thursday, October 10th. — The wind is from the l^.W., and the sea is quite smooth. There is no ice in sight. Took observation of the sun at noon and it placed us in Lat. 54° 22' N., and Long. 55° 40' W. At 6 p.m. we passed abreast of Wolf Island. At 7.30 p.m. we see a light flashing every minute, in the direction of Indian Tickle. It is the first light that we have seen since we left Belle Isle and the members of the expedition are very much rejoiced at this change in the monotony of the voyage. Friday, October 11th. — Weather fine and calm. We are much surprised to see two schooners at daylight. They are going towards the west. We are about 6 miles from the shore, and we are steaming in a S.S.W. direction. The chief engineer reports that there are only 50 tons of coal left on board. At noon our position by observation is Lat. 52° 24' N., and Long. 55° 21' W. We can see Double Island bearing to the S. of W. about 10 miles off. The day is very fine and is like a summer day for us, after being in cold regions for so many months. We shaped the course to enter the north side of Belle Isle, and we steered all night through the strait. Saturday, October 12th. — Weather calm. At 6 a.m. we signalled to Forteau Lighthouse, and exchanged signals with the guardian of the station. At 9 a.m. we are passing Greenly Island. At 12 o'clock noon we stopped in Lat. 51° 11' N., Bonne Esperance Bay bearing N.IST.E., 11 miles off. I went on board of the British steamer Port Saunders, in charge of Captain Anderson, who reported that they had just killed a whale. The captain produced his clearing papers, which were dated I7th of May, 70 CRUISE OP THE AECTIC 1907, at Bay of Islands; the number of his whaling license is 38. This whaler has killed five whales during the past week, each of these whales yielding about $700 to $800. At the rate that the whaling industry is carried it will not be long before the whales are all exterminated. At 1 p.m. we proceeded up the river, weather fine and warm. Sunday, October 13th.— Wind S.W., light, with fog. We saw St. Mary Island before the fog came on. Took soundings and found 60 fathoms. At noon we are in Lat. 50° 04' N., and Long. 59° 44' W., in 62 fathoms of water, gravel bottom. The weather was foggy all day, with variable airs. Monday, October 14th. — Light wind from the S.W. We are off Hunting Island, in 58 fathoms of water. At noon our Lat. by observation is 50° 01' N., and Long. 63° 07' W. Anticosti Island was in sight when the fog lifted from the land. A steamer that we supposed to be the King Edward, was going in an eastward direction. At 9 p.m. we passed Perroquets Island light. At midnight the west end of Anticosti Island is bearing S.W., 15 miles off. Light wind from the oST.N.E., clear weather. Thursday, October 15th. — Fine and light air from the north. Very smooth sea. Seven Island bearing N.W. by N. -J IST., 13 miles off. We shaped our course for Pointe-des-Monts ; at 9 p.m. we passed Seven Islands. At midnight we were at Pointe-des-Monts light N.W. by W. Wednesday, October 16th. — Strong breeze from the westward ; we are steaming along the north coast. At 8 a.m. we pass Cape St. Nicholas. We shaped our course for the buoy off Manikuagan shoal, which we reached at 12 o'clock noon. We then shaped our course for Father Point. Thursday, October 17th. — At 1 a.m. we sighted the Father Point light, and at 9 a.m. we took Mr. Guenard as pilot; we received a lot of newspapers, but no mail. At 4 p.m. we are abreast of Mille Vaches Point; there is a strong wind from the west, and we are obliged to anchor near Apple Island at the beginning of the ebb tide; dropped anchor in 17 fathoms of water. It blew a strong gale from the S.W. at night. Friday, October ISth. — At 9 a.m. the wind changed to the W.IST.W., and we got under way. We set the fore and aft sails to proceed up the river. At noon we are abreast of Green Island; the wind is more to the north, and we put up all sails; at 4.30 p.m. we are passing abreast of Kamouraska Island; at 11 p.m. we are in the St. Eoch Traverse. Saturday, October 19th. — At 1 a.m. we are passing along Crane Island. At sunrise wc are opposite St. Joseph-de-Levis. At 7 a.m. we cast anchor in the stream abreast of the King's wharf, about IJ cable from the wharf. After breakfast I left the ship to go ashore to report our arrival to the Department of Marine and Fisheries, Ottawa, and at the agency of this department in Quebec. Sunday, October 20th. — The crew went to church at 8 a.m. Monday, October 21st. — Officers and all members of the crew were paid the balance of their wages and salaries due, and they were all discharged; the pay amounted to $15,000. On the following days the ballast was unloaded from the ship and deposited on the King's wharf. All the remaining stores and provisions were landed and placed in the Marine and Fisheries Department stores on shore. Saturday, November 2nd. — Steamed from the King's wharf and went into the Louise Basin, where we moored the steamer alongside the wharf. In the afternoon I left by the Intercolonial Railway, for Ottawa, to make a full report of the expedition which we have just completed, to the Department of Marine and Fisheries. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 71 CHAPTEE IX. Fisheries. Ee Whales. The fishing capacities of the northern portion of Canada, during the years 1906-7 :— Lancaster Sound, its bays and inlets. — The whale fishery is still on the decrease (see the Dundee Whale Eeports for 1905-6), which speaks for itself. Most of the whales are taken on the Greenland side. We have met no American whalers in the northern waters. The Scotch whalers do not go farther west than Lancaster Sound. They generally remain on the Baifin Land side, and as a rule call at Pond's Inlet and Button Point or Salmon Eiver, where they obtain fresh supplies of fish. During our passage to Pond's Inlet, jSTavy Board Inlet, Admiralty Inlet, Prince Eegent Strait, Barrow Strait, Peel Sound, Austin Channel, Melville Sound, Jones Sound and Baffin Bay, only one whale \\'as sighted during these two summers. By the report of Capt. Adams, of the Morning, in 1907. he fastened to one large whale, on the Bafiin Land side, and lost it; he had no whales up to the 28th of July. Captains Milne, Cooney, Guy, and Mutch report that no whales had been captured up to the 26th of July, when we left for Jones Sound. WHITE WH.liLES. White whales were first seen by us in Navy Board Inlet, Admiralty Inlet, Prince Eegent Strait, Port Leopold. It was reported to ns that large numbers are taken at Batty Bay, 40 miles south of Leopold Harbour. We also saw a large number at Erebxis Bay. The white whale is generally found in the neighbourhood of small streams; it is easily captured. NAR WHALES. Narwhales were first met by us in Pond's Bay, Eclipse Sound, Navy Board Inlet, Admiralty Inlet, Peel Sound, Erebus Bay. A large number come in Pond's Inlet, when the ice begins to break, in the spring, they return to the ocean in the fall. The natives at Pond's Bay capture a large number of narwhales for their ivory and oil; they are also used as food by the natives. About three hundred narwhales' horns were taken in Pond's Inlet station alone. W.4LRUSES. The walrus, like the seal, goes north in the spring and returns south in the fall ; they are not so numerous as in previous years. Very few are taken in the neighbour- hood of Pond's Inlet; a few are taken on the Baffin coast by the whalers. Their skin has increased very much in value during the last years. Seals are plentiful in Pond's Inlet, Eclipse Sound. Navy Board Inlet ; but they abound in Admiralty Inlet, especially at Adams Sound; they are not so plentiful in Barrow Strait, Wellington Channel, Aiistin Channel, Byam Martin; they are scarce in Melville Sound. Seal meat is the principal food for the Eskimo in Baffin Land. The seal skin is used in the manufacture of the native's clothing and kayaeks, in fact the seal is indispensable to the natives. 72 CEUISE OF THE ARCTIC HERRING. No herring were caught in our nets while fishing for salmon. ISTatives have not reported them, and it looks as if they did not frequent the northern waters. We did not see any while in Hudson Bay. CODFISH. We have seen no large codfish in Pond's Inlet nor in Lancaster Sound. But we have caught some tommy-cod in the ice cracl^s in Pond's Inlet; they were also several species of flat fish in the ice cracks in this inlet. SALMON". Salmon is found in all the rivers in Bafiin Land, Cockbum Island, l^orth Somer- set. They are especially plentiful in Salmon River, Pond's Inlet, Arctic Sound, IGlne Inlet and Admiralty Inlet. The whalers capture a good number every year. SALSION TROUT. There are large numbers of Salmon Trout in all the streams ; they live upon little white fish and tommy-cod. Ottawa, February 21st, 1908. R. W. Venkixg, Esq., x\ssistant Commissioner of Fisheries, Marine and Fisheries Department, Ottawa. Sir, — Inclosed herewith, I beg to submit my fishery report with regard to the northern waters of Canada, according to your letter of July 24th, 1906, with reference to whaling licenses given by me in territorial waters of Canada, north of 55th parallel of north latitude. Annexed to this report you will please find some tabulated state- ments of information relative to the whaling fishery in the same regions, and also in Hudson Bay. I have the honour to be, sir, Your obedient servant, J. E. Bernier, Fishery Offi.cer and. Commanding Officer of the G.G.S. 'Arctic' fishery report. List of the whaling licenses that were issued to the Scotch whalers, during the expedi- tion to Arctic regions and Hudson Strait, in 1906-7. ■Wlialers. Licenses. Year for. Diana 2 1906-7 Balaena 2 1906-7 Eclipse 2 1906-7 Morning 2 1906-7 ^^^'^ri 2 1906-7 Windward, lost on the 26th June, 1907. Scotia and Snotvdrop were not in our neighbourhood and we did not collect licenses from them. I am very sorry to have to report that on the 26th of June the steam whaler Windward, from Dundee, Scotland, was totally lost on the Carey Islands. Captain Cooneyand his crew had to sail from the place of the wreck to Pond's Inlet, in the ship's life boats. They were taken on board of another Dundee whaler, in Pond's Inlet. No licenses were collected from Kekerton. and Blacklead stations for the follow- ing reason: — AKCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 73 On August 28th', being outside of Kekerton, in Cumberland Gulf, I sent the chief officer on shore to communicate with the agent of that station, Mr. W. F. Milne. This officer returned on board with the news that Mr. Milne, the agent of the station, had died on the 13th of the same mouth, under suspicious circumstances. I sent Doctor Pepin with some officers ashore to hold an inquest into this death. The result of this inquest proved that the late agent had shot himself with a gun in a moment of despair, caused by nostalgia, as shown by some letters written by him some time before committing the deed, and which had been left on his desk. We also landed at Blacklead, on the 30th of August, but we found no agent at this place. He had left the year previous, as we learned from the few natives at this station; there were no representatives from whom we could collect the license. We proceeded and arrived at Port Burwell on September 2nd. WHALING. Tabulated statement of information concerning the whale fishery in Baffin Bay and in Hudson Bay. Year. Steamer. Sail. Whales:. Oil. Bone. Tons. Cwt. 1865 1S66 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 11 15 17 18 16 14 15 17 18 16 18 17 13 11 9 6 9 12 8 8 / 3 5 5 5 4 5 5 3 3 4 7 7 6 6 6 6 10 9 8 12 11 11 12 10 8 6 5 4 3 2 3 65 81 24 134 22 79 152 138 172 190 98 82 80 48 79 17 79 28 15 742 848 228 1,228 266 962 1,348 1,392 1,426 1,662 975 1,115 955 514 670 524 755 359 375 496 308 125 403 167 228 391 218 233 60 102 235 419 290 260 212 145 110 290-?, Ill' 97 710 933 60 1,164 207 1,111 1,544 1872 1873 1874. .. ... 1,486 1,475 1,680 1875 1876 1877 970 1,132 850 1881 495 1882 1883 1884 1885 ... 1886 1887 560 190 780 200 240 140 1888 6 8 11 6 .10 15 3 3 8 8 26 17 15 13 14 11 23 3 43 1889 110 1890 265 1891 1892 . . 70 78 1893 1894 410 250 1895 36 1896 1897 1898 15 110 J 00 1899 330 1900 .... 230 1901 1902 190.'! 164 187 • 175 1904 107 1906 339 1905 .... 73 1907 32i 40 years. 382 87 1,817 21,244J 19,0,51 The returns from 1865 to 1877, inclusive, are from the report of the U. S. Consul at Dundee, 1877. The returns from 1881 to 1904 have been furnished by Capt. W. F. Milne, of the British whaler 'Eclipse.' The returns from 1904 to 1907, inclusive, have been prepared by Capt. J. E. Bernier, Commander of the C. Cx. S. 'Arctic. 74 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC The details of the season's catch for 1907 are as follows : — Ships. Black Whales. White Whales. Walruses. Seals. Bears. Foxes. Oil. Bone. Active 32 1 .374 13 13 7 184 19 21 185 5 26 4.5" 190 10 560 65 33 43 11 28 23 27 28 650 Tons. 28 lOi 32| 17 Cwts. Diana Balaena 1 I 2 Kclipse. Morning . 3 Snowdrop 50 46'" Scotia. 2 32 Albert... Windward Lost on the 26th of June. 3 36 634 1,021 258 740 97 324 The results accruing to the work of the Dundee whaling fleet during the season of 1907 are expressively tabulated in the above statement, which has been compiled b.y Mr. James Mitchell, shipbroker, Dundee. The season was opened with, in some cases, the burden of the loss incurred by the comparative failure of the previous sea- son to be cleared off; but the work of the past year has proved even less profitable than that of its predecessor. Only three black whales, yielding an aggregate of 32J cwts. of bone, were caught, and of these two, representing 32 cwts. of the total bone produce, were taken by Captain Robertson of the Scotia. The ' scraps,' however, compare more favourably with former catches. Calculating on the basis of the revenue in a moderately successful season, the monetary loss to the shareholders is estimated at about £50,000. The unproductiveness of the season is reflected in the scarcity of bone on the market, and the consequently rising prices. A regrettable feature of the year was the wreck of the Windivard, which itself represents a large material loss to the owners. The following returns, given in tabular form, will show the results of the last six seasons of Arctic fishing and trading with natives : — Years. Ships Black whales . White whales . Walruses . . . , Seals Polar bears . . Foxes Oil (tons) .... 1902. 6 12 632 118 1,984 168 212 1903. 7 14 79 107 3,229 157 127 J 75 1904. 7 11 163 45 1,135 109 211 113 1905. 1906. 10 9 23 7 37 8 122 534 408 1,264 200 189 471 817 339 73 1907 9 3 36 634 1,021 258 740 324 WHALING IKDUSTRY BY AMERICAN WHALERS IN HUDSON BAY AND CUMBERLAND GULF. The following is a short account of the whaling industry as pursued by the American whalers in Hudson Bay and Cumberland Gulf, from information received from Capt. Comer: — 1846-.52.— One ship yearly to Cumberland Gulf; yielding 350 tons of oil and 2-5 tons of bone. 1853-58.— Five ships yearly to Cumberland Gulf; 750 tons of oil, 5-75 of bone. I860.— First two ships to winter in Hudson Bay; value of catch, $60,000. 1863. — Fourteen ships in Hudson Bay and Cumberland Gulf. 1864. — Fifteen ships in Hudson Bay. 1865. — Two ships in Eepulse Bay. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STEAIT , 75 1866. — Four ships wintered in Repulse Bay. 1889. — Schooner Antarctic, Capt. Gifford; no whales. 1890.— 1891. — ^Bark A. A. Tucker, 'New Bedford, Mass., Capt. Fisher, wintered at Marhle Island ; 4 whales, 4,500 lbs. of bone. 1891. — ^Bark Perseverance, Capt. Murray, H. B. C, wintered at Repulse Bay; 2 whales, 1,800 lbs. of bone. Returned home in 1893. 1893.— Two ships; 8 whales, 18,500 lbs. of bone. Bark Canton, Capt. Fisher, New Bedford, Mass. Wintered at Depot Island; retiirned home in 1894; 5 whales, 6,000 lbs. of bone. Bark A. A. Tvcher, Capt. West, New Bedford, Mass.; wintered at Depot Island; returned home in 1894; 3 whales, 4,500 lbs. of bone. 1894. — ^Bark Perseverance, Capt. Murray, II. B. C ; first winter at Depot Island, second winter at Chesterfield Inlet, third winter at Repulse Bay; catch very small; 5 whales, 2,500 lbs. of bone. 1895. — ^Bark Canton, Capt. Peel, New Bedford, Mass; wintered at Cape Fuller- ton; returned home in 1896; 2 whales, 2,000 lbs. of bone. Bark A. A. TucJcer, Capt. West, New Bedford, Mass. ; wintered at Cape Fullerton ; 1 whale, 1,6"0 lbs. of bone. Schooner Era, Capt. Comer, New Bedford, Mass. ; wintered at Cape Fullerton ; returned home in 1896 ; 3 whales, 6,700 lbs. of bone. 1896. — Desdeinona, Capt. Willard, New Bedford, Mass, lost before winter; crew returned home in Era; 2 whales, 2,600 lbs. of bone. Platina, Capt. MacKenzie, New Bedford, Mass.; wintered at Repulse Bay; returned home in 1896; 2 whales, 1,600 lbs. of bone. 1897. — ^Bark A. A. Tucker, Capt. Nichols, New Bedford, Mass.; wintered at Cape Fullerton ; returned home in 1898 ; 1 whale, 1,750 lbs. of bone. Schooner Era, Capt. Comer, New Bedford, Mass. ; wintered at Cape Fullerton, returned home, 1899; 16 whales, 18,000 lbs. of bone. Schooner Francis Allyn, Capt. Gibbons, New Bedford, Mass.; wintered at Repulse Bay; returned home, 1898; 2 whales, 2,000 lbs. of bone. 1898.— 1899. — Schooner Francis Allyn, Capt. Gibbons, New Bedford, Mass.; wint;ered at Cape Fullerton; returned home, 1900; 6 whales, 4,500 lbs. of bone. 1900. — Schooner Era, Capt. Comer, New Bedford, Mass. ; first winter at Cape Fullerton; second winter at Repulse Bay; returned home in 1902; 8 whales, 8,000 lbs. of bone. 1901. — Schooner Francis Allyn, Capt. Santos; wintered at Depot Island, was burnt in 1902, to the south of Cape Fullerton; no whales. 1902.— 1903. — Schooner Era, Capt. Comer, New Bedford, Mass. ; wintered at Cape Fullerton; 3 whales to date; 1,800 lbs. of bone. Eight vessels have been lost at the whale fishery during the last thirty years, to the knowledge of Capt. Comer; they are: the Omay Taft, Aliert Lawrence, A. E. Hanton, Ellen Eodman, Isabel, Besdemona, Francis Allyn and the Polar Star. Capt. Comer does not state that all were lost in Hudson Bay, but leads to that inference. Since 1904 Capt. Comer has taken 7 whales (1904-5), with the schooner Era; went home to New Bedford, Mass., where he wintered. Left New Bedford for Hudson Bay in June, 1906, on board the schooner A. T. Gifford, to spend two years in Hudson Bay; probably in Repulse Bay; it is to my knowledge that he was there in October, 1907. He has not paid any license for the last year. No other vessels have been whaling in this inland sea this year, except the steam whaler Active. The steam whaler Active, Capt. Murray, Dundee, Scotland, has visited Hudson Bay annually since 1898, and being assisted by a large number of natives from Savage Islands, has succeeded in capturing some whales and a goodly number of walruses. In 1899 the Active brought out materials for a small station, which is erected on the south shore of Southampton Island. This venture was a commercial failure, and 76^ • CEUISB OF THE ARCTIC the place was abandoned in 1903. In the meanwhile the owners of the Active sent two tishing smacks to Hudson Bay, to remain in those waters, to act as tenders to steamships. One, the Ernest Williams (1903 and 1904) has wintered in Repulse Bay, being used as a trading station; with the expectation of securing from the natives some whale bone as well as musk-ox skins and other furs. The second smack Queen Bess, is stationed on the north shore of Hudson Strait, near Icy Cove, where her owners are working a mine for mica. The following conclusion may be drawn from the above information : In the height of the whaling industry there were from 600 to 630 whaling vessels in active service, in the Atlantic, Pacific and Arctic oceans, hailing from the United States and from ports of the United Kingdom ; now the number scarcely reaches fifty. There has not been and there cannot be a revival of this industry until there is first a renewal of the supply of whales, and at the present time there appears to be no prospect of this. As will be inferred from the above reports, this year has been a total failure in the Arctic sea ; only three whales having been caught. It must, therefore, be admitted that, at least for the present, the whaling fishery is exhausted. Taking into considera- tion the state of things at present a closed season should now be enforced and remain so for ten to fifteen years ; so as to give the whale time to multiply. The whaling industry will soon be a thing of the past if no enactment is passed for its temporary restriction. J. E. Bernier, Fishery Officer. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 77 Appendix I. FULLERTOX, ICE FORIIATION, 1904-5. On arrival, October 16, ice was 4 inches. Last Saturday, November 20, ice was 22 Decembe r 3, 10, 17, 24, 31, 7, 14, 21, 28, 4, 11, 18, 25, 4, 11, 18, 25, 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, •5, 6, 13, 20, 27, 3, 10, 17, 24, 1, 4, 1904 24 28 31 . ...33 January 1905'. '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.''.'..'.'....'.'.'..'.'.'.'.'.'..".'''. 34 36 37 " " 38 40 42 45 48 51 March 54 " 57 59 ,, „ 62 April ".'.'.'.'..'.'/.['/.'/."..'.'.'...'."..'.'.'"..'"/.'' 65 67 67 " 661 66' May ir Another piece of old ice 66 72 65 fi4i 1, 62i June 61 60 56 „ ,, 49 July 38 36 Ship had to be sawed, and with the help of steam we broke throiigh the ice by butting at it. "We sailed from Fullerton on the 5th of -July, 1905, for Churchill, and we meit the packed ice, and sailed through about 150 miles of ice of this year's formation. We could have reached Churchill by keeping along the land, which is reported clear of ice, with west wind. J. E. Bernier, ' Arctic' 78 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Appendix II. ALBERT HARBOUR, POND S INLET. Statement of the ice formation during the winter, and other conditions of the ice and the harbour. Arctic arrived in the harbour on September 9th, the harbour from the sea on October 9th. 1906. Ice commenced to drift in Date. 1906— October November December 1907 — .January February March April May June July 16th. 17th. 20th. 27th. 3rd. 10th. 17th. 24th. Ist. 8th. 15th. 30th. 5th. 12th. 19tli. 26th. 2nd. 9th. J6th. 23rd. 2nd. 9th. 9th. 16th. 23rd. 30th. 6th. 6th. 13th. 20th. 27th. 4th. 12th. 18th. 25th. 1st. 8th. 15th. 22nd. 29th. 6th. 13th. 20th. 27th. Heavy ice came in Ice stopped in the harbour.. Ice formation {1,000 feet outside of harbour). (Outside of the harbour) . (Snow commenced to melt) (Snow embankments are getting rotten and are melting away fast) (Ship ranging on her berth). (Ice is bad) Ice broke in the harbour and is moving with the tide C. a. S. " Arctic " left harbour for sea . . Thickness 18 feet. 2 inches 7 10 „ 1 foot. 15 inches. 19 „ 20 „ 20 M 20 „ 21 „ 20i „ 24 M 29 „ 30 „ 33i „ 39 ., 41 „ 42 „ 43 M 44 „ 58 „ 48 „ 52 „ 60 „ 61 „ 65 „ 61 „ 61 „ 61 „ 61 „ 61 „ 60 M 60 „ 59 „ 59 M 59 „ 58 „ 56 „ 50 „ On board C.G.S. Arctic, July 2Yth, 1907. J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer, C.G.S. 'Arctic' ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 79 Appendix III. Abstract of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of August, 1906. AT SEA. 1 2 3 4 .5 6 7 8 9 10 n 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Temperature Air. Left 44 41 '35' 30 30 ?-0 40 37i 36" 26 28 35 34 34 34 Tempera- ture Sea Water. Surface. Barometer. Chateau Bay 39 39 39 39 32i 29" 35 35 36 35 35 26 26 51 32 31 32 30 29 27 27 25 25 25 25 25 27 27 30 29 29 30 30 29 30 30 30 30 30 29 30 30 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 30 .SO 30 30 30 30 00 Prex-. Wind.s S.W N.W N.E Variable S.S.W S.E Light ife variable N.N.E N.E S.S.W Variable Southerly S.W.....'.'.'.'...'. Westerly Soutlierly. . . . Calm ....'.'.'.'.'.'. N.E w'.'s'.w.'^^ .'.'.'. S.W W.ii.W.'.'.'.' .'.'.. Prev. Weather. Fine and dry . . Thick fog. Gr. Dull sky. . Fine Clouded Fine clear sky Rainy Light fog . Rain and fog Clear sky . Clouded'. . Fine. Remarks, Sun shining. Warm. Fog. Thick fog. Fog and smooth sea. Dull, clouded. Thick fog on high. Sun shining. Light rain. Clear sky. Light fog. Clouded sky. Fog and rain. Rainy. Rain and fog. Clear sky and warm. Very cold. Wet snow. Cold. Very cold. Sun sliining. 4167—12 80 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Appendix III — Continued. Abstr.^ct of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of September, 1906. AMONGST THE ARCTIC ISLANDS. Temperature Air. Temjiera- ture Sea Water. Barometer. Vrt-v WinH« Remarks. Day. Max. d g 32 32 32 36 36 36 34 32 i 1^ 31 31 31 33 35 35 33 31 Surface. •^ rt g s S.E , . 1 30 28 28 28 29 29 30 30 29 30 29 ■ 96 Fog Very cold. Rain. 2 30 29 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 29 29 29 30 30 30 30 30 30 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 90 Clouded sky. . Strong breeze . G V. " 3 32 00 00 on 00 00 00 00 80 80 4 36 . Easterly . 5 34 6 34 . N.W Fine Sun shining. 7 32 Fog and cold . Fine, clear sky G.V. . 8 30 9 32 10 32 . Light, variable 11 32 Fine clear skv 12 3:! 50 13 34 14 35 15 35 60' 00 15 . 10 : Westerly . S.E G.V...'.'... Clear sky. 16 34 31 31 30 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 Light rain. 17 31 20 5 95 92 90 80 90 92 90 80 70 60 70 15 18 32 . Westerly Light frost. G.W Snow. 19 30 20 29 21 28 30 30 27 28 32 32 34 36 '20' 29 26 27 31 31 32 33 . N.W Strong breeze. 22 28 23 25 Fine clear sky G.W 24 26 25 30 . s.w Very cold. 26 30 Stormy gale. . . 27 30 28 32 . Southerly. 29 . . . 30.... 1 ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 81 Appendix III — Continued. Abstract of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of October, 1906, Albert Harbour. Temperature Tempera- ture Barometer. jrill. Sea Water. Prev. Winds. Prev. Weather. Kemarks. & C Surface. c Q 33 36 33 § . X ra c . >< -: a) Surface. « 40 34 s 1 30-39 Above zero. 2 28 34 30 3 32 29 31 4 30 29 31 5 28 29 31 6 31 29 30 7 32 30 31 8 34 32 33 9 40 39 39* 10 44 38 41 n 38 38 41 12 44 36 39 13 44 36 41 14 41 36 38 15 39 36 38 16 34 30 32 17 34 32 33 18 23 32 33 19 32 32 31* 20 37 32 34* 21 36 42 39 22 29 25 27 23 26 25 27 24 34 28 31 25 32 28 31 2fi 33 32 33 27 30 32 33 28 34 30 32 29 34 29 31-30 30 36 32 34 Barometer. Prev. Winds. 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 29 29 29 j 29 29 i 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 25 30 15 30 30 30 25 30 ■ 30 30 25 30 35 30 25 30 ■ -25 30 20 30 ■ -15| 30 20 30 ■ -00, 30 20 30 00 30 20 30 OOl 30 20 30 ■OOl 30 20 3u ■05 SO 20 30 00 30 20 30 00 30 20 30 •951 30 20 29 ■92 30 20 29 ■80 30 20 29 ■75 29 60 29 .50 29 40 29 ■45 29 40 29 ■65 29 55 29 -83 29 70 29 ■86 29 70 29 ■87 29 70 29 -87 29 70 29 ■90i 29 70 29 ■Sri 29 70 29 ■90 29 70 29 ■98 29 85 29 ■99 29 93 29 ■90 29 85 29 20 Light. 20 .. 27 Gale. . . . 27 Fresh . . 22] Strong. 22, .. . 22 u .. 22 Fresh . I Dark clouded sky Clouded sky.. Light Fresh Light air. . Strong. Fre.sh . . . Light Strong. . . . Light air. . 8 9 "u...'. Mod. gale. Strong. |Snow showers.. Clouded sky.. . . Clear sky Wind, Variable. Opening detach ed clouds Hazy sky Clouded sky Hazy sky Clear sky . . . . Clouded sky Clear sky Strong bre'eze. . . Clouded sky.. . . Clear sky 90 CRUISE OP THE ARCTIC Appendix III — Goniinued. Abstract of the Meteorological Journal ke^it on boanl the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of June, 1907, at Button Point. Tempera- Prevailiuj^ Winds. Temperature Air. ture Sea Water. Barometer. Prev. Winds. Remarks. p c S^ cS y. d S Surface. fl o a w UH Q ^< ^ r-*; S r Dull sky and fog. 2G East. . . 4 Light fug. 27 S. E . . . 5 1, 28 ,, 3 Thick U,g. 2!) West'.'. 2 Fine and clear. 30 M .. 1 (Sgd.: C. W. GREEN, 3rd OHice'r. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 91 Appendix III — Continued. Abstract of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of July, 1907, Albert Harbou-r. Temperature . Air. Temp'rat're . Sea Water. Surface. Barometer. c Prevailing Winds. Remarks. At Button Point. n! o Q d West ?, Fine and clear. N.E. 6 Snow all day. East 4 Heavy dull sky. N.E. 7 Heavy rain. S.W. 3 Clouded sky. s.w. 5 M M s.w. 4 Rain, light fog. East o Clear sky. S.W. o 11 1, West 2 Fine and clear. East .3 Light fog. N.E. 4 Thick fog. West R Fine and clear. West 3 H (Sgd) C. W. GREEN, 3rd Officer. I found the ice to be working with the tide-inward mtii the flood and outwards at ebb. The flow is also greatly influenced in its course by direction of the wind b.W. wind breaking the ice most on the North shore, and N.E. breaking on the S.W. side. The state of the ice at the present time according to natives advice is similar to other years. I measured the ice at different places getting from 6 feet * in«- ^"■''^^^"r^Tllr^^KT'^^- Sgd. I CHAO. W. (jrKJiJilN, .3rd Officer, D.G.S. "Arctic." 92 CRUISE OF THE ABCTIC Appendix III — Continued. Abstract of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of July, 1907. 1 38 2! 38 31 40 4: 36 5 1 36 6i 30 7| 39 8 39 9 40 10, 45 111 34 12 1 36 13 1 40 14^ 41 15| 47 16 1 45 I7I 44 ISi 48 19 34 20 40 21, 34 22, 32 23' 32 24 1 35 25 38 26 40 27 32 28 31 29I 36 30, 30 3ll 31 32 34 34 34 34 2* 34 36 36 38 32 32 32 39 39 44 40 46 32 38 38 29 29 29 36 38 30 27 29 29 29 36 37 35 35 35 35 37 38 41 33 33 33 40 40 43 42 47 33 39 39 30.30 30.30 30.30 37 39 31 29 33 33 34 25.90 29.87 29.65 29.62 29.92 30.03 30.32 30.37 30.35 30.28 30.23 30.23 30.13 30.15 30 00 30.18 30.15 30.10 30.05 30.02 30.02 30.08 30.17 30.17 30.17 30.27 30.32 30.34 30.57 30.36 3U.40 29. 29.67 29.67 29.50 29.83 29.83 30.25 46.25 30.25 30.25 30.15 30.15 30.15 30.15 30.00 30.10 30.10 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.13 30.13 30.13 30.15 30.20 30.25 30.27 30.27 30.35 30.35 30.35 S.E, S.E. S.E, S.E, West'ly. N.w. : . N.W. .. S.AV. . S.E... S.E... N.W. N.W, S.W. .. S.W. . . S.W... South . East... S.E.... East. . . E.S.E. E.S.E. E.S.E. East.. . East. . . East. . . East .. S.E.... East. . . Light clear sky Mod. Gale, dark threatening sky. Fresh breeze, clouded sky. Strung breeze, clouded sky. Calm. Dark sky with rain. Light air, clouded sky and rain. Brisk breeze, clear sky. Light breeze, clear sky. Variable and light, clear sky. Light air, clear sky. Strong breeze, clear sky. Light air, clear sky. Light air, clear sky. Brisk breeze, clear sky. Variable. Clear sky noon, clouded sky Fresh clear sky opening detached cloud Fresh clouded sky with ra.in. Moderate gale, clouded sky, rain. Light gale, clouded sky. Strong, clear sky . Strong, clear sky. Strong, clear sky. Light gale, clear sky Stormy gale, clear .sky Fresh gale, clouded sky, with fog. Moderate gale, clouded sky. Strong breeze, clear sky, fog on land. Strong breeze, clear sky, fog on land. Brisk breeze, clear sky, fog on land. Strong. Clouded sky, thick fog. Strong, light breeze. B.C.M. B.C.M. B.C.M. B.C.M. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STEAIT Appendix III — Continued. Abstract of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of August, 1907, amongst the Arctic Islands. Day. Fahrenheit's Thekjiometeh. Bakometee. Max. 40 3.5 32 32 32 40 32 32 30 32 32 38 35 32 32 36 35 34 34 35 35 32 34 35 35 35 35 33 32 Min. Mean. ' Max. Min. Mean, 32 28 28 28 30 30 29 29 34 33 31 31 32 33 30 30 31 30 30 29 31 30 36- 34 50 29 44 30-48 Prevailing Direction. North , East. . S.E.E South . S.E . . . S.E . . . N.E. . W.S. . . East. . . North. 90' 86; 79 f 74 i 75 S 79 45|We.sterly.. 98 981 58! i South . IS.S.W. I S.W. , . ) South . 30-49 N.W. S.S.W. S.W... Soutn S.E , . South . Wind force. Strong. Light Strong. Light air. Fresh East. Calm . Light. Calm . Stron; Light Calm Gale. Calm Fresh, Light Calm Prevailing Weather Sky. Light clouded sky Clouded sky . Thick fog.. Clear sky . . . Clouded sky Clear sky , . Clouded sky Thick fog... Clouded sky Thick fog..'. Hazy sky . . Thick fog '. Fog and rain. Thick fog , , Clear sky Thick fog Temiier- ature of Water. 30 above. 28 30 28 29 30 29 29 28 28 29 29 34 .36 37 28-32 29 above. ;n 36 32 32 34 27 27 27 27 27 27 27 28 27 28 94 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Api'ekdix III — Continued. Abstract of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the C.G.S. Arctic during the month of September, 1907, at Port Burwell. 31 1 29 2 30 3 30 4 31 5 31 H 31 7 31 8 32 9 32 10 32 11 32 12 32 13 31 14 30 15 31 IK 32 17 31 18 31 19 32 20 32 21 32 22 32 23 32 24 32 2S 31 26 31 27 31 28 31 29 31 30 Fahrenheit's Thermometer. Max. Min. Mean. Max. Min. Mean, 36 36 36 39 42 36 33 33 33 34 34 30 36 33 30 32 29 30 38 38 42 43 36 42 36 34 32 31 29 31 30 32 32 35 36 32 29 29 29 30 30 36 32 34 36 37 35 34 38 33 32 29 33 Barometek. 50 30 30-25 30 12 30 12 30-00 29-92 29-68 29-90 29-98 29 98 30 -00 .30 -00 30 -10 30 -04 30 00 29-84 30-30 30-5 30-48 29-98 29-98 29-67 29.56 29-85 29-80 29-50 29-20 29-50 29-93 30 -03 29-90 30-15 30 -00 30 00 29-64 29-64 29-70 29-88 29-88 29 •.S4 29-84 29-95 29-84 29-58 29-84 30-7 30-30 3008 29 -.50 29-44 29-70 29-64 29-23 29-4 29-30 29-60 30 00 29-74 30-20 30-06 30-06 29-42 29-66 29-80 29-93 29-93 Prevail- ing Direction West. S.W. East. . West . 29-92IN.W. 29-92 30 -00 29-92 29-71 29 -.58 30-18 30-39 36-03 29-58 29-50 29-78 29-72 29-27 29-40 29-40 29-76 30 -01 28-86 N.W.W. East s.w.s... East N.E S.W... South . S.E ... South . S.E, N.E. . N W. West... S.W.... Wind Force. Light Brisk breeze . Light Fresh Strong Fresh Light air Fresh breeze . Prevailing Weathe Light. . Strong. Light. . Fresh Light Gale [Clouded'sky. Light ) Heavy rain. Clear sky. Clouded sky. Clear sky, B.C.M. Clouded sky. Thick fog. Clouded. Rain. Clear sky. Clouded sky. Clouded sky with rain. Passing snow showers. Clear sky, B.C.M. Clouded sky. Clear sky. Calm. Light Strong . . . , Light, fresh Fresh . , Strong . Clear sky, B.C.M. Clouded sky. Rain. Clouded, rain. II snow. Snow showers. Clouded sky. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 95 Appendix 111— Continued. Abstkact of the Meteorological Journal kept on board the G.G.S. Arctic during the month of October, 1907, at sea and up St. Lawrence River. Day. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Fahrenheit's Theemojieter. Barometer. Max. Min. o o 33 31 3S 29 29 29 36 29 32 29 33 29 33 30 32 30 30 30 38 32 39 32 36 42 40 42 41 42 40 42 40 42 42 42 40 42 34 42 Min. Mean. Max. Min. Mean At Quebec. 32 32 32 32 29 31-30 31-30 31-30 35-30 35 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 90 29 74 29 10 30 20 30 24' 29 76 30 75- 29 71 29 75 29 60 29 63 29 33 29 74 29 55 29 74 29 55 29 73 1 29 33 29 20 29 S5 29 24: 30 16 29 20 29 16 29 16 29 lOl 29 lO: 30 6 30 14 30 12 30 19 30 60 30 10 29 80 29 10 1 29 63 29 20! 30 12 30 Prevailing Direction. South S.E.^^ South S.W.' West . . S.S.W. S.S.W.. N.E.. . N.N.W. West . , . W.S.W.M. N.W Wind force. Strong . Calm . Gale . . . Fresh . Strong. Variable st'ng. .Strong Variable light. Light Fresh . . Light. . . Strong . . Gale.. . . Strong. . Prevailing Weather. Clouded sky and fog. Clear sky B. CM. Clouded sky. Clear sky. Clouded sky and snow. Clear sky. Clouded sky and rain. Clear sky B.C.M. Gloomy dark sky. Clear sky B.C.M. Clear sky. Appendix IV. Meteorological Observations taken at Killinck, Port Burwell, during 1906-7, by Kev. Mr. T. Waldmann, Superior of the Moravian Mission. Note. — The observations of Mr. Waldinan -were not included in the manu- script.— W.W. S . 4167—13 96 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Appendix V — Continued Meteorological Obsurvations taken at Hebron, by Mr. Hlowatscheck, Moravian Missionary — Centigrade and Fahrenheit Thermometers — in 1891. Day of Month . .Januaey. Febkuaet. M.iRCH. Apeil. Cent. Fah. Cent. Fah. Cent. Fah, Cent. Fah. 1 -2(;o -14-8 -30-0 -220 -241 -11-4 -19-2 -250 9 -1.5 -12 1 3 4 9 9 9 - 30 -30 2 5 -22 -22 3 9 -24 -23 3 -1] - 9 7 7 -18 -14 6 - - 5 4 3 7 4 -19 - 2 2 -.33 8 -28 9 -18 5 - 1 3 -14 6 - 5 7 5 -13 f> 8 3 -31 8 -25 2 -20 5 - 4 9 -15 5 4 1 () -14 8 5 3 -28 4 -19 1 - 8 9 -15 9 -16 6 _ 2 1 7 - 7 i\ 18 4 -30 3 -22 5 - 3 -31 4 -17 8 - 4 8 -IS 2 - {I 7 -25 1 -13 2 - 5 2 -22 6 -14 2 - 6 4 9 — 22 9 - 7 9 -28 -18 4 -11 -12 2 - 5 2 -22 6 10 -14 3 (; 2 -30 8 -23 4 - 3 9 -24 9 -14 6 - 5 7 11 -22 (\ - 8 6 -27 5 -17 5 - 5 o 22 1) - 2 7 -27 1 12 -21 7 - 7 -26 (; -15 9 -11 4 11 5 - 6 7 -19 9 13 - 6 4 20 4 -28 7 -19 7 - 6 2 20 8 — / 1 19 2 14 -21 9 - 7 4 -29 9 -21 8 - 9 1 15 6 - 4 1 24 6 15 -22 9 - 9 2 -24 ,ti -12 1 - 7 8 17 9 -14 1 5 5 1(J -30 o -22 4 -26 4 -15 5 -18 2 - 7 - 5 6 22 1 17 -34 9 -30 9 -29 2 -20 5 -18 8 - 1 8 - 6 2 20 8 18 -29 5 -21 5 -25 4 -13 7 -12 9 - 8 8 -15 2 - 4 6 1!) -29 8 -21 r, -25 1 -13 2 -18 -■> - 7 -14 9 - 5 2 20 -29 3 -20 7 -29 (i -21 3 -19 8 - 3 6 -11 7 10 9 21 -29 fi -21 3 -24 5 -12 1 -16 2 2 8 - 7 5 18 5 22 -25 -13 -22 1 — 1 8 - 9 (i -14 7 - 5 2 22 6 23 -Kj 1 3 -31 1 -23 9 -12 4 9 ( - 5 23 24 -11 4 11 5 -26 -14 8 -17 4 7 7 33 2 25 -19 9 - 3 8 -23 5 -10 3 - 7 o 19 - 6 5 20 3 26 - 22 3 - 8 1 - 8 2 17 •> -12 6 9 3 1 32 2 27 -19 -19 9 - 3 - 2 8 2 -15 -18 5 9 - 4 1 -19 -17 5 - 3 1 1 4 2 3 2 32 35 5 28 - 2 9 29., -23 -19 -18 7 6 -10 - 3 - 1 6 3 5 - 7 -24 - (J 6 6 6 18 -12 20 3 3 1 3 2 4 4 31 36 8 30 3 31 Mean per day -20'5 - 49 -26 5 -16-7 -13-5 - 7-7 - 8 5 -16 7 ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 97 Appendix Y — Continued. Meteorological Observations taken at Hebron, by Mr. Hlowatscheck, Moravian Missionary — Centigrade and Eahrenlieit Tliermonieters — in 1891. Mat. June. July. August. Day of Month. Cent. Fah. Cent. Fall. Cent. Fah. Cent. Fah. 1 48 46 - 0-4 31-3 3-6 38-5 3-4 .38 1 2 O 8 38 8 1 9 35 4 12 2 53 (1 4-2 39 5 3 1 33 49 1 65 43 7 22 3 9 32 33 33 5 6 2 3 9 6 3 5 3 37 49 43 9 1 3 13 18 21 i) 4 !) 57 65 71 1 4 91 32 10-7 48 41 51 4 23 3 24 2 25 - o 31 1 6 8 44 2 6 5 43 7 84 47 i 26 - 1 9 28 fi 5 9 42 6 6 5 43 / 5 1 41 2 27 - 1 4 29 5 4 5 40 1 9 8 44 o 12-2 .53 9 28 - 2 9 26 8 9 1 48 4 3 1 41 4 8 5 47 3 29 - 3 4 25 9 6 42 8 4 1 39 4 5-5 41 9 30 - 5 fi 21 9 3 5 38-3 9 42 6 3-9 39 31 - 3 (1 26 R 7-2 44-9 7 5 45-5 ilean per day. . . - 06 30-9 4 3 39 7 6-2 48-5 82 46-7 4167- -13i 98 CRUISE OF THE AKCTIC Appexdix V — Concluded. Meteorological Obser-\'atioiis talcen at Hebron, by Mr. Hlowatscheck, Moravian Missionary — CentigTade and Fahrenheit Thermometers — in 1891. SBPTEJIBEE. Day of Month. Cent. Fall. 1 14 4 7-4 41 3 1 1-9 3'2 5-7 6-2 4 9 6-7 41 19 19 2-4 1-3 55 0-8 1-2 1-6 0-3 09 1-8 31 3 7 7 9 3-8 0-9 5-2 17 - 0-3 57 -9 2 4 5 H 45-3 39-4 37-6 35-4 377 4*1-2 8 9 431 40-8 10 ... ..... n 44 394 12 13 14 49-8 49 8 363 15 16 34-3 41 9 17 18 19 20 21 22 2i.'.'.'.'. .."...'.'. 24 33 4 34- 1 34-7 31-4 .33-6 352 .37-6 38 G 2.5 26 27 44-6 38-8 33 -6 28 29 . 30 31 41-3 35 31-4 J\lean per day. . . 3-5 .38 3 OcTdBER. Cent. - 38 - 2 - 40 - 4-6 - 2-5 - 20 - 0-4 - 0-4 0-6 1-9 - 0-5 - 0-5 - 4-5 - 2-7 6-5 - 4-5 ^ 5-3 05 " 41 - 5-7 6-9 266 - 4-2 - 7-2 - 2-3 - 71 - 8-5 - 8-5 - 96 - 95 -11-3 Fall. 25-1 28-4 28-8 23 -7 27 '5 28 '4 31-3 32 7 33 35 31 31 23-9 27 1 437 23 9 22 "4 32-9 30 21-7 444 - 8 9 24-4 190 27-8 19-2 16-7 16-7 14 7 14-9 11-6 3 2 I November Cent. -10-4 -18 - 4'2 - 8'7 -no - 7-5 - 7-8 -330 - 3 4 - 15 04 0-3 - 3 1 - 61 - 7-8 -11-3 - 1-3 - 1-3 -140 -13 6 -13-3 15 9 -120 - 6-3 - 11 -131 142 - 2-2 - 60 -146 Fah. 13-3 28-7 24-4 16-3 12'2 18-5 17-9 260 29-9 293 32-7 32-5 26-4 :7-4 17 ■ 11-6 29-6 29-6 8 7-5 8-0 -16-6 104 20-6 300 7'7 0-4 28-0 21-2 5 '7 26 7-0 19 4 Decembeh. Cent. -11-2 -131 -15-9 - 65 - 8-8 - 1-3 -12-3 -13-4 -16-5 -160 -185 -170 -19'8 -13-2 -10-6 -13-9 -220 -11-5 -19-2 -19-2 -15 9 - 30 -11-7 -13-3 -17'7 -231 -23-0 -189 -16'6 - 6-5 -21-1 -14-9 Fah. 110 8-4 3-4 20 3 161 29-6 9-8 7 '9 2-3 3-2 - ]-3 1-4 6 2 9 9 8 3 - 2-5 - '* ' 5 .3-4 221 109 80 01 - 9-6 - 9-4 - 20 21 20-3 - 5-9 ArPEXDLX YI. . Geological Survey of Canada, Dep.^htjiext of Mixer, A. P. Low, DePUTV illXlSTER. Ottawa, .Tannary 10th, 1908. Dear Capt. Ber.vier, — The rock and mineral speeimeiis collected by yon during the cruise of the Ai-flic, in 190G-7. have been submitted to examination with the following results : — (a) Sand and fragments collected in the bed of Salmon River, Baffin Land. The sand is made up of fine grains of quartz, garnet, hornblende and magnetite. The fragments consist of lignite. (h) Several large masses of rock from Albert Harbour, Baffin Land. These consist in general of two tj'pes : the first is a garnetiferous hornldende-schist consisting of a moderately even distribution of almandine garnet, black hornblende and white ARCTIC ISLANDS AXD HUDSOX STRAIT 99 quartz; the garnet individuals commonly attain a diameter of half an inch, are highly fractured and perfectly translucent, and have a wine-red colour; the horn- blende is black, has a bright vitreous lustre and occurs in grains and in crystals up to a quarter of an inch in length; the quartz is white and translucent and occurs for the most part in granular form; the second type resembles the first except that it is modified by the presence of biotite in coarse scaly aggregations; the individual minerals, too, are not so uniformly or evenly divided as in the first type and commonly are found in much larger individuals. (f) Rock specimen from Dog River, Erik Harbour, Pond's Inlet, Baffin Land. This consists of a moderately fine grained ferriginous quartz sandstone. (d) Some small specimens from Milne Inlet, Pond's Inlet, Albert Harbour, Baffin Land. These consist of grains and thin sheets of native copper associated with pale apple-green sub translucent prehnite. Most sincerely yours, (Signed) EOBT. A. A. JOHInTSTONE, Mineralogist. Capt. J. E. Berxier, Dept. of Marine and Pisheries, Ottawa, Ont., Canada. Al'PEXDlX VII. List of articles collected from different places in Pludson Strait and Arctic regions, by Capt. J. E. Bernier, during the expedition of the C.G.S. Arctic, 1906-7. 1. Box found on Cockburn Point, containing some of the records deposited on that point by Lieut. McClintock, 1851. 2. Pieces of plank from a boat found in Erebus Bay, 1906. •3. Piece of a pick found on Cockburn Point, near the spot where box marked ' 35 ' was found. •4. Stones found inland of Cock]:)urn Point. 5. Lead bullets and small nails found inside of box marked ' 35,' on Cockburn Point. 6. Sample of sand from Cockburn Point, Bathurst Island. T. Piece of rope found on summit of Beechy Island, 642 feet above the sea level. It was taken from Sir John Franklin's monument, in September, 1906. 8. Volcanic stone found on top of Beechy Island, September 8th, 1906. 9. Stones, wood, .I'ars. rope and crockery found about Sir John Franklin's monu- ment on Beechj' Island, September 3rd, 1906. 10. Pieces of wood from Capt. John Ross' yacht Mary, which was abandoned at Erebus Bay, September 3rd, 1906. 11. A walrus tooth found near Cumberland House depot, Erebus Bay, September 3rd, 1906. 12. Two pieces of rope cut from Sir John Franklin's monument on top of Beechy Island. 13. One piece of soapstone found on Beechy Island, September 2nd. 14. Old Eskimo pipe found on Beechy Island, September 3rd, 1906. 15. Shot gun cartridge shell found on Beechy Island. 16. One stone shell and two small shells and some stones found on Beechy Island. 17. One piece of bone found at Port Leopold, and marked ' William Sanderson, 1888, August.' 100 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC 18. Bottle found at Port Leopold, containing news from Capt. Jeffrey, steamer EsquimauU, July, 1891. There was also a record from Capt. P. Walker, dated 5th August, 1888, included in the same bottle. 19. Stones found at Cape Walker, Eussell Island. 20. Sample of rock from Cobourg Island, King Edward Point, August 2nd. 21. Saiuple of rock from Cone Island, North Lincoln, Augxist 12th, 1907. ^ 22. Glass found on Wlialer Point, Port Leopold. Stone, piece of narwhale ivory, implements and soapstone, also found on the same island. 23. One piece of stone found at Port Leopold, August Sth, 1907. 24. Piece of spear used by the Eskimos for killing seals, it was found in Pond's Bay, 1907. 25. Shell found at Pond's Inlet, 1907. 26. A star fish caught at Pond's Bay. 27. Stones from dry river bed at Albert Harbour. 28. Stones from bottom of Hudson Strait, in 15 fathoms of water. Port Burwell, Ungava. 29. Specimen of lignite coal found at Salmon Eiver, Pond's Inlet. 30. Piece of plate found at Beechy Island; it was from the North Star expedition, 1854. 01. Mr. A. P. Low's record box found on Beechy Island, September 3rd, 1906. J. E. Berkfer, Commanding Officer, C'.G.S. 'Arctic' On board C.G.S. Arctic. Appendix VIII. C.G.S. 'Arctic' Albert Harbour, Pond's Inlet, September 20th, 1906. 1. The Commander would remind both officers and men that there is a long winter before us and we shall be from necessity in close community, that this state of things may continue for one year or more. Under such circumstances little frictions are liable to occur, but by all hands making the best of things and working together in harmony such little frictions can easily be smoothed over, and the long winter months will then slip past quickly and pleasantly. 2. It is to be distinctly understood, that all orders respecting every department of the vessel are to be given by the first mate, through the officer or person in charge of such department. All complaints are to be made through Mr. Hayes, the chief officer, to the commander. Any officer or man believing himself unjustly treated can, if he so desires, request to be brought before the commander. It must be borne in mind that frivolous complaints will not be entertained, and that any person making such complaints is liable to punishment. 3. A half holiday will be given to all hands except watchman, on Saturday afternoon. By Order, J. E. Bernier, C ommanding Officer. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 101 1. Commencing Monday, October 1st : Breakfast for men, 8 a.m. Dinner for men, 12.30 p.m. Breakfast for oificers, 8.30 a.m. Dinner for officers, 1 p.m. 2. Seeing that we have a long winter before us, I would request that all lights be put out when not occupying the cabins. Every one will please be careful to see that no oil is wasted, otherwise an allowance will be served. All lights ovit at 10.45 p.m. sharp. I would again remind both officers and men that we cannot be too careful about fire. 3. When on leave ashore or on the ice two men must keep company, and we must know the direction they are taking, so that in case of need we may trace them if necessary. A board will be put up on deck for that purpose. All hands on leave must be on board before dark. Every one must be careful not to get lost or frostbitten. All firearms are to be discharged before coming on board the ship. 4. All oil-skins and furs will be kept on deck, where they will be both aired and dried. Nails will be put up for that purpose, with the name of each person attached. By Order, J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer. C.G.S. 'Arctic' Albert Harbour, September 28th, 1906. tTRE REUUL.ATIONS OX BOARD C.G.S. ARCTIC. Every means should be taken that no fire occurs, and it is very important that no fire shall happen. In case of fire the following regulations shall be followed : — Eire extinguishers are placed in the following places: Below decks: One extinguisher is placed at the end of the passage running forward port side. One in the mess-room forward. One inside the engine-room door. One outside the mess-room north door. One in the forecastle. One in the starboard hall near the stove. Should fire be discovered the officer on watch will at once be notified, and he will ring a general alarm on the ship's bell, and will also call the commander aird the officers. The chief engineer will have charge of the pumps, and will at once make con- nections with the steam or deck pumps. The chief officer and the port watch will attend with all his available buckets. The stewards and cooks will pass water to the waiters. The second officer will use the fire extinguishers, and the starboard watch and firemen will attend to the pumps. The third officer will attend the powder magazine, the chart-room, the instrument- room, and will report to the commander if danger arises in those quarters. The boatswain will have charge of the hose and sec that it is connected with the main pumps. The carpenter will attend to the fire hole and see that the water is at hand. The saloon passengers will make themselves generally useful. By Order, J. E. Bernier, Commanding Offi^cer. 102 CEUISE OF THE AECTIC C.G.S. 'Arctic' Albert Harbour, July 2nd, 1907. Coffee, 5.30 a.m. • Breakfast, 8 a.m. Dinner, 11.30 am. and 12 p.m. Supper, 5.30 p.m. and 6 p.m. People not on duty cannot make any noise while the officers and men are at rest after 8 p.m. Every one who has a deck light v/ill be responsible for its opening and closing. Wjien the officer on duty orders it, it must be done at once. By Order, J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer. NOTICE. Commencing to-morrow, the stewards, waiters and cooks, will be given liberty, and must, if they value their health, go out for one hour exercise every day, they can go after their work is done, say from 2 x).m. to 4 p.m., in pairs. In storms they can be about the upper deck. By Order, J. E. Berxier, Commanding Officer. C.G.S. 'Arctic' Albert J-Iarbour, November 23rd, 1906. ApPEivDIX IX. information with REFERENCE TO LABRADOR COAST. Ansioers given Ijy Rev. Chas. Schmidt, Inspector of the Moravian Mission, Labrador Coast, Eillineli, in reply to questions submitted to him hy Captain J. E. Bernier, Referring to the ahove information. Q. Native Innuits and i^opulat ion A. The Eskimos or Innuits on the Labrador coast in charge of the Moravian Mission amount to about 1,200 souls. These people derive their living from himting and fishing seals, trout, codfish, foxes, bears, wolves, martens, otters, minks, &c., the hunting of which affords them part of their living. As above Mission has been estab- lished more than 150 years, these natives are no longer heathen, but have adopted Christian manners and customs. Q. Native Indians? A. Some native Indians live in the interior of Labrador. These are not stationary nor settled, but travel about continually; they come out to the coast of Labrador to trade at intervals, at Northwest Eiver and Davis Inlet. Q. White people? A. There are quite a number of white people or settlers on this coast; some of them are half-breeds, having mixed either with Indians or Eskimos. The haK-breeds of Eskimo origin are more numerous. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STEAIT 103 Q. Traders from outside? A. The Hudson Bay Company have four posts on the coast of Labrador (one at Cartright, one at Northwest Eiver, one at Eigolet, one at Davis Inlet). The French- Canadian Fur Comjpany has one post at Northwest Eiver. Besides these traders and ourselves who stay on the coast all the year round, we have a number of Newfound- land people coming regularly to the coast in the sununer. The main object is to prosecute the eodfishery, but many of them do more or less trading. Q. Wliat evils could we remedy? A. We regret that things in Labrador are not similarly managed as in Greenland by the Danish Government. There the Government has the monopoly of the trade ; the Mission is supplied by the State aud has no need to resort to the trade. Q. The resources of the eastern part of Ungava Bay from George Eiver to Cape Chidley? A. The resources of the eastern part of LTngava Bay consist, as far as we know, in seals, codfish and trout. These, when in season, may be found in abundance, and are yet very little reduced, as the population of the Eskimos is so limited. We have not heard of any minerals being found on this coast. Q. General diseases of the natives, and proper remedy? A. The natives are, as a rule, a healthy race, but since they have come in contact with outside people, either through fishermen coming here or natives being taken away for exhibition purposes, they have contracted various diseases. Measles, typhoid fever, pneumonia, pleurisy and syphilis have occurred amongst them. We have done all to remedy the mortality in consequence of the above diseases ; a mission doctor and hospital are established in the centre of our Labrador Mission. Q. What regulations would you suggest for the prohibiting of bigamy? Any other suggestions which in your opinion would lead to the bettering of things in general, would be gladly received by me. A. In regard to bigamy we should suggest the following : If a heathen Eskimo has more than one wife previous to settling down on a mission station, same may be tolerated, but he should not be allowed to take more wives. A man living at a station should not be allowed to take more than one wife. Should he persist in taking more than one wife he may be fined and compelled to pay his fine by the Government, and if this be of no avail he may be imprisoned. We think, moreover, that a small fine would suffice to bring him into line with law and order. With our Eskimos on the Labrador coast we have had no difiiculty in this direction. All our church members have but one wife. We think it, however, important that at Port Burwell or Killinek the heathen Eskimos should be impressed with the rules and laws of civilized countries, as we fear that if this is not done, many of these people would continue and even develop their heathen and pernicious practices still for many years to the detri- ment of the community and all concerned. (Signed) Chas. Schmidt. INFORilATION WITH REFERENCE TO PORT BIlRWELL. Aiiswers given hy Rev. T. Waldniann, Superior of the Moravian Mission at Port Burwell, Killineh, in reply to questions submitted to him hy Capt. J. E. Bernier, commanding Officer of the G.G.S. 'Arctic' Q. What are the advantages of this place for commercial purposes? A. The advantages of this port for commercial purposes would perhaps mainly consist in its prominent position, as it is so near the straits and in the main thorough- fare for ships navigating these waters. Q. What are the resources of this place and neighbourhood that you know of since your arrival here ? A. The resources of Port Burwell are good as far as seals, codfish and trout are concerned. We have not been here long enough to say that this is all that may be secured, and we hope to learn of other resources later on. 104 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC Q. Do you consider this place will become more important? A. Port Bin-well would become more important if the codfishery were prosecuted in summer. We believe that fishing schooners could come here in fleets and get a load of fish in about two weeks. We have had steamers here from Newfoundland, and they got all they wanted in a short time. Q. If this port is chosen for a calling place for ships, do you think it will be to the advantages of the Imiuits and others about this coast? A. Should this place become a port of call we do not think that it will make any diit'erence to the natives. Q. Wliat is the permanent population of Innuits, male, female, children? A. The permanent population here is 20 males, 22 females and 37 children, total 78 souls. Q. Can the mail reach this place during the winter, and at what time during spring, summer or fall overland? A. A mail reaches in January via Newfoundland and the Labrador coast. There is only one reliable opportunity for mails to reach in summer, i.e., by our mission vessel the S.S. Harmony. Q. What fresh water can a vessel procure, and what quantity during the summer? A. There is very good fresh water supply in the small bay south of our port near your coal depot, with about 80 yards of piping Capt. Bartlet was able to have it right aboard his vessel. Q. Could a water pipe be laid for water during the summer from that small lake near the land? A. With about 80 yards of piping, Capt. Bartlet was able to have the water right on board of his vessel. Q. When do the codfish arrive in the summer, and what time do they leave in the fall? A. The codfish arrive here early in the summer (Angnst), and do not leave before the middle of October. Q. Wliat other fish visit this part of Hudson Bay, and when? A. Besides codfish we have trout here. We do not know whether salmon can be secured at George Kiver and Fort Chimo. Q. Would you please give us a rough estimate of the value of your property in Killinek ? A. The property at Killinek may roughly be estimated at $10,000. Q. What suggestions could you give the Department of Marine and fisheries for the bettering of this port? The opening of navigation for one or more years? The closing of navigation for one or more years? A. Navigation opens from the middle to the end of July, and closes about the middle or the end of November. (Signed) T. Waldmaxn. THE HUDSOX BAY ROUTE. A short compilation of facts and conclusions, taJcen from different reports since 1861, by Capt. J. E. Bernier, Commanding Officer of the C.G.S. 'Arctic,' 1908. 1861. — October 17th, Capt. Buddington, on board the George Henry, was closed in Rescue Harbour. 1879. — November 4th, Capit. Spicer, on board the whaler Era, was closed in New Gummuite Harbour, just inside of North Foreland. Capt. Adams, who has been in these regions with several ships, during his experience of 3.5 years, says that the Strait of liudson is navigable in round numbers for about four months per year. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STEAIT 105 1884 and 1885. — Commander A. B. Gordon, S.S. Aleii, is of the opinion that the Strait is navigable during' four months each year, i.e., from July to October, inclusively. 1885. — November 4th, Capt. Glisby, on board the whaler Era, was beset in Xew Gummnite Harbour. October 15th, Capt. Chas. Smith, of Dundee, Scotland, on board the S.S. EsquimauUs, left Cumberland Sound, homeward bound, and he had to go through about 150 miles of pack ice, which he had met near the headdand, before he could shape a course for the north of Scotland. 1897. — October 30th, Commander Wakeham, on board the steamer Diana, at the mouth of the Hudson Strait, reports that at this date the mouth of the Strait was clear of ice, but he adds that it was snowing and that the ice was not far off. 1897. — Capt. E. B. Fisher states that he has visited the strait and the bay several times on board of several vessels since 1864, and in his judgment the strait can be navigated from three to three and a half months each year by steamers for com- mercial purposes. 1904 and 1905. — Conniiander A. P. Low, in command of the S.S. Neptune, says that the period of safe navigation for ordinary iron steamships through Hudson Strait and Hudson Bay to Port Churchill may be taken to extend from July 20th to November 1st. This period may be increased without much risk by a week in the lieginning of the season and by perhaps two weeks at the close. 1905 and 1906. — Mr. Beach, who has lived at Churchill for two years, and who has recently returned there, after a visit to Winnipeg, states that he knows for a fact that in 1905 a steamer left Port Churchill on the 24th of October, and made the trip to St. John's, Newfoundland, in II days. The straits were wide open until that date. The bay is open all the year round, and was still open when he left, on January 3rd. 1905, 1906 and 1907.— October 16th, Capt. J. E. Bernier, of the C.G.S. Arctic. arrived at Eullerton on this above date; he saw no field ice in the strait but a couple of icebergs were seen. There was no ice in the bay, and the ice in the harbour of Fuller- ton was only four inches thick. In the spring of 1905 he left Fullerton about the 5th of July, and he encountered tire field ice outside of Churchill, 60 miles north; a strong steamer could have passed through and have entered Port Churchill. During the month of October, 1907, no ice was visible in the strait at Resolution Island, we saw this place on the 7th of October. The average date of the closing of navigation at this place is about the 1st of November; while the opening at Port Burwell is about July 15th. A ship could certainly navigate the strait while the land ice is still firm in the bays and the harbours. Deductions. — The average date of the closing of navigation for the eastern entrance of Hudson Strait, when considered from the above opinions, is about the last days of October each year. The reason and cause of the closing of navigation is due to the pacl< ice drifting on the coast at the entrance of Hudson Strait. The drift is caused by the northern current which partly enters the north side of the strait and partly closes on the Labrador coast ; this fact is well established by the filling up with ice of the northern harbours and Port Burwell at the entrance of the strait, while the western part of the strait and the bay are free of ice. It is a well known fact that Hudson Bay itself never freezes, except a certain margin of ice a few miles along the land around the bav. Port Churchill is often still open in the first weeks of November, and could easily be kept open with an ice-boat if desired. With the proper aids to navigation the dangers would not be so great during the fall. With wireless telegraphy in a station at the entrance of Hudson Bay the opening of navigation could be made in the first week of July; by informing the steamers which side of the strait to pass on so as to find clear navigable water. In this way much detention would be saved in the first 106 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC part of the month of July. There is no doubt that the strait is navigable during four months each year, with suitable steamers, and that Hudson Bay is navigable for one month longer, though there is a largo field of ice in the bay, -which is the output of the land ice, and is of the year's formation, through which a suitable steamer would have to pass to reach Port Churchill. J. E. Berxier, Commanding Officer, C.G.S. 'Arctic' SCALE OF RATIONS ISSUED TO MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION. Lbs. Oz. Beef. 2 4 or Bacon or corn beef 1 4 Flour or biscuits 1 9 or Bread 1 1^ Butter •" Apples or other dried fruit 4 Jam 2 Syrup 2 Potatoes 1 or Beans 4 Evaporated vegetables 2 01- Canned vegetables (tomatoes, peas or corn) 2 Coffee g Tea fi Pepper %c Salt 5 Rice or barley li Sugar 5 Oatmeal 2 Pickles, one quart per man per month. Baking powder in the proportion of 1 lb. to 100 lbs. of flour. Lime juice and vinegar to be issued when and in such quantities as recommended by the surgeon. MEJIORANDUM FOE CAPTAIN ,J. E. BERNDCR — LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN DURING THE CRUISE. N09. 1 steamer ' Arctic ' leaving Sorel. 2 Steamer ' Arctic ' with bowsprit broken. 3 Steamer ' Arctic ' leaving Quebec. i Steamer ' Arctic ' at anchor at Father Point. 5 Fir«t fair wind to the steamer "Arctic' 6 Chateau Bay. 7 Chateau Bay inside harbour. 8. Greenland coast several photographs. 9 Icebergs. 10 Greenland coast, several icebergs. 11 Disko island, 12 miles off. 13 ' Arctic ' replenishing with fresh water. 1.3 'Arctic' going through the middle pack ice. 14 Midnight sun, IGth Augu.st, 1906. 1-5 Bylot island. 16 Wallaston islands. 17 Four glaciers in Navy Board inlet. 18 Navy Board inlet. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 107 LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS — Continued. Nos. 19 Canada Point. 20 Approach of Albert Harbour. 21 Captain .Tames Mutch's station and house. 22 Albert Harbour, 8 different views. 23 Erio harbour. 21 The most northern land of Baffin land. 25 Pond's inlet. 26 View of Bylot island. 27 View of Bylot island fiom the south. 28 View of glacier on Bylot island. 29 Button point. 30 Cape CTrahanimore. 31 Baffin Land coast of Albert Harlx)ur. 32 Taking posession of Baffin Land. 33 Beloeil island. 3-t Beloeil island mountain. 35 Rifle competitoi's on November 9, 1900. 30 ' Artio ' winter ciuarters. • 37 Several harbour views. 38 Approach of harbour from outside. 39 Dundee whaler ' Albert.' 40 Dundee whaler ' Eclipse.' 41 Dundee whaler ' Diana.' 42 Dundee whaler ' Balaeua.' 43 Capt. W. P. Milne. 44 Capt. Adams' 45 Capt. .James Mutch. 46 Navy Board inlet. 47 Cape Crawford. 48 Port Leopold. 49 ' Gjoa ' cache. 50 ' Arctic ' depot. 51 Cape Clarence. 52 Limestone island. 53 Griffith's island. 54 Cairn on R. R. Dobell point. 55 Cairn on Sherrington point. * 56 View of ice while ' Arctic ' is beset. 57 Cornwallis island at a distance. 58 Cape Cockburn point. 59 Byam Miartin island 'dairu. 60 Melville island land. 61 Our photographer off Melville island. 62 State of the ice outside of Melville island. 63 Lowther island. 64 Gfourdeau point and cairn. 65 Cape Walker and cairn. 66 Russell island at a distance. 67 Cape Bunny, Limestone island, August 30th, 1906. 68 Peel sound clear of ice. 69 Coast of North Somerset. 70 Beechy island. 71 Cape Eieley. 72 Tombstone of men of ' Erebus.' 73 Sir John Franklin's monument, as we found it. 74 Sir .John Franklin's monument, as we left it. 75 Northumberland house as it is now. 76 Bay of Erebus. 77 Land to the east of Bay of Erebus. 78 Entrance of Admiralty inlet. 79 Land about Cape York. 80 Ten photographs of Admiralty inlet. 81 The head of Admiralty mlet. 82 Six photographs of the western side of Admiralty inlet. 83 One small iceberg in Admiralty inlet. 84 Navy Board glacier. 85 Mr. Cameron's whale boat. 80 View of the .station from the west. 87 Eskimo Cameo and his tupick. 88 Our native Moueyshaw' and his wife. 89 Arctic cove where we landed our boats. 90 Views from Morin mountain (6 photographs). 91 ' Arctic ' amongst the ice blockade (3 photographs). 92 Sledge and dogs 93 Our igloos. 108 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS — Continued. Xos. 94 View of the ' Arctic ' ready for sea, 2 photos, how and stern. 1)5 View of whale boats. 96 View of ' Arctic ■" boats. 97 View of our ' Arctic ' Uiunch. 98 ' Arctic ' dorey. 99 Ashes on the ice. 100 Asli avenue. 101 Albert Harbour view with three ships in port. 102 First bear killed. 10.3 Bear swimming. 104 Bow of ' Arctic.' 10.") Death of the Eskimo Snider. 106 First burial of Snider (temporary). 107 Coffin of Snider on top of ice again. 108 Snider's final burial. 109 Boxes of cheese and pemmican. 110 Fred. Brokenhauser's funeral. 111 Fred. Brokenhauser's burial (three views). 112 View of large garnet rock in Albert Harbour. 11.3 Fi-xiug tarpaulins on board. 114 Carpenter at work. 115 Water hole at stern of ' Arctic' 110 Depaiture of (Teoi-ge Hays for Milne's inlet. 117 Departure of Mr. O. .1. Morin for Kavy Board inlet. 118 Departure of Mr. .lames Duncan for Coots inlet. 119 Departure of Mr. Charles (ireen for Button point. 120 Departure of Mr. W. H. Weeks for Button point. 121 Departure of Mr. 0. .1. Morin for Salmon I'iver. 122 Capt. J. E. Bernier shooting ducks. 12.3 I'iskimo kayacks. 124 Eskimo uniacks. 125 Capt. James Mutch's sledge. 126 Sir .John Ross' yacht ' Mary.' 127 Boat abandoned by the ' North Star.' 128 Sir John Franklin's cairn on Beechy island 129 Capt. .1. E. Bernier at the mast-head. 130 Mr. George Lancetiekl, photographer, going up to the mast-head. 131 Adams island. 132 Doctor Boas charts, three plates. 133 Mr. C. .T. Morin at the mast-head. 134 Mr. William Eoss, boatswain. 135 ' Arctic ' bow in dock. 1.36 ' .-irctie ' stern in dock. 137 Hon. L. P. Brodeur. 1.38 Capt. .T. E. Bernier, Commander of C. G. S. ' Arctic' 139 Mr. Fabien Vanasse, historiographer. 140 Di-. .1. R. Pepm. 141 Chief Officer, Hayes. 142 2nd Officer, Morin. 143 Igloolik Eskimos. 144 Pond's inlet Eskimos. 145 The crew of the steamer ' Eclipse.' 146 The crew of the steamer ' Eclipse ' dancing. 147 View of Albert Harbour, looking from the N-W. 148 Capt J. E. Bernier kicking for ice movements. 149 Cairn on Cone island. 150 North Lincoln. 151 Cobourg island, two views. 152 I'ldwards point on Cobourg island. 153 Remains of Eskimo hoxise on Cobourg island. 1.54 The entrance of Cumberland sound. 155 The state of the ice in Cumberland sound. 1.56 Kekerton island. 157 Kekerton harbour. 158 Blackhead harbour. 159 Blackhead island. 160 Blackhead mission. 161 Mr. Crawford Nable's house. 162 Eskimo from Blackhead. 163 Several views of islands along Baffin Land. 164 Resolution island. 165 The Buttons island. 166 Port Burwell from outside. 167 Port Burwell from the south. 168 Entrance of McLelan straight. ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 109 LIST OF I'liOTotiRAPiis — Continued. Nos. 169 Entrance of Munroe harbour. 170 Inside of port Mnnroe. 171 View of inside of inner port Bnrwell. 172 The Moravian Brothers church and station. 173 ' Arctic ' moored in inner port Burwell. 174 Two views of ' Arctic ' niooied in port Burwell. 175 Several views of McLelan strait. 176 Several views of Esldnio pass. 177 Several views of port Harvey. 178 James Duncan, Customs officer, looking at Mr. Lancefield going up the mast-head. 179 One view of Button island. 180 Mr. Geo. Lancefield, after ducking near Melville island. 181 ' Arctio ' beset ofi Bathurst island. 182 A native in shirt sleeves 18.3 Native dance on New Year da.y. 184 Natives Canaca, Muckatowee, Toniallo and C'ackto-o. 185 New Year's dinner in saloon. 186 Singing and playing the pianola in the saloon. 187 Thirty-six panoramic ancl other views: — Cape Grahamore, east side of Bylot island. Possession Bay, Cape Faiishawe, Cape Warrander, Cape Osborne, Cape Horsburgh, Cape Parker, four glaciers. Reaper point. Cap© Pritty, North Devon Grlacier, Lady Ann strait. Smiths' island. East side of North Somerset, North side of Somerset, Prmce of Wales island, cairn on Beloeil island, Capt. Mutch's house, Capt. Cooney, range going in port Burwell, Joe. Lane and family, 'Arctic' off Melville island. Cape Crawford, state of the ice in Jones sound. Smith's island, view of southern portion of Cobourg island. Dr. Boas' Eskimo route on Baffin Land, city of Quebec, city of Levis, Albert Harbour, east coast of Prince Regent inlet (5 veiffs(. Cape Kater laud to the south of the cape, state of the ice in Regent strait, August 6, 1907. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS KILLINECK, UNGAVA FOR THE YEARS 1906-1907 (FROM SEPTEMBER, 1906, TO OCTOBER, 1907) 4167—14 111 K.KY TO Abbreviations in Reports of the Meterological Observations at Killineck, Ungava, from September, 1906, to October, 1907. Aurora Ulue sky ... Cloud detached . Dew b C Drifting snow -^ Drizzling rain d Dust haze °« t'og = Glaced frost ,-— ' Gloomy g Hail A Hoar f rest l_) Ice crystals — * Lightning <^ Lunar corona ^^ Lunar halo "^ Miet = Overcast, dull O Passing showers P Rain O Rainbow .^ Silver thaw V Snow >ii Snow on the grctund [X| Soft halo /\ Solar corona Q Solar halo (J) Strong wind y>^ Squally q Thunder T Thunder storm TK Ugly U Wet W Cluiids. Cir. = Cirius. Cir. Str. = Curo Stratus. Cir. Cum. = Cirno Cumulus Al. Cum. = Alto Stratus. Str. Cum. = Strato Cimiulu> C. = Cumulus. C.N. = Cumlo Nimbus Nimb. — Nimbus. 4167-141 113 114 CEUISE OF THE ARCTIC > o < > < l2i o H «1 CO :? o -^ t> ci CO pa o < D I — I O o hJ o o H 3 O 2;^ S n S S ( CO c " ^ -c„ <» S x-S _ fco be a '^ ^ « p. 5f.B --^»." - - O^ i^^i^ ^ ^^^ § 5^fi U "SgH o 1—1 g-^ ^ ^^* ^ fall and .m. T3 1^ SO" V o .br s bD .2 ■S.B. o o o o . o o o o o o o o O jd'^OOOOOO ^ III— ^rH^WWf-trH Ol, ■S8111U ■C-1 CO C-1 ■ C] (^J OJ O 03 ■ ;D IQ CO -# CO K >/;fe^" ,.;^W ^M ^a: ^'ii '-• CO c-5 ^ -ti '^ C'^ »o lO I--:* irr o CO CO -^ lO -f CC' !"■ CO '>"! ca CT I cococo cocococococococo CCi-H CO c-i GO CO CO cc CO GN CM C^J O Cm CI 00 (M C^l i-l i-i d CO -t lO CC' tOOi— I 'X~i— ICOCOt— It— ICOCM CCrHC;^; ^:^'^ II C<1 CI CO GC C; t- CO CI CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CI CI OJiO-^ -t 1— 1 -t" iO CO O r.v] cococo coco 1 CO ccoo 1 CO CO CMiCCOOCCCOCOClCl C". CI O 01 CI CO T-l .-1 CI COCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCO CO -+H cooco cc CO "*CO cc X CI O CO CO C<1 i.O rt^ Tt^ CO CO CO CO CO CO CI N V -r CI ic i~ ^ 1H CO CO CO CO CO CO "^ "^ CI co-^ t-- co CO CO O CO CI ,-icoccco-r-tH.^oci TfiCOCOCOCOCOCOCO'^ C] CCX' J -O CO CI CO coco TtiCO ■cc — CO CO cq ca COi CO C: — c; c. 01 CI CI 01 CI CI CO •-O _ CI CI TtH -P CM O ca CI ci ci ca O CiO cqci CM CCOC-lfC^lrHClCOcr: coc--ciciC5c:)Oajco CI CI CI cq M ca ca CI CI •^ X. '^ CT Cq 01 Cq o ARCTIC ISLANDS AND HUDSON STRAIT 115 O CT3 O » o ^ o S ♦f ^s _■ K^ '*- K^ ^ c3 :\ -)f \^ -r oj fe f > ^ 4 Ww ^ S C I I |C|.« I I" I I I I I II I I I 17 177 I I I I I +4- ■ I I I lA I I I II I 10 ^OOOOOOC-lOOOOW 4- O OR csir;iG(M':3-C 1=^ I I I I CC !M CO ■* O. "^ m 10 CI CI -dD 1.Q OJrSOiCiTlHrtf-^t-dOib-l-t-CO I + I I II I I I I I I I q CM O r 2CO I ' I CO 01 CC CI CO CM coco I I I I I GOiOC^ OOOC^'-JDiOid C^ I + I I II I I I II I ir:ioDcoaiOi-H-*::^-*ooccciL -^CO-^'t<-*oOCiClCOO'*-+'COt- + o o* --f*qc9is.ixi I I I i"7 I I 111 + COCOODX* locicoxcq MoiOL':iiOt>--f*ocot>-- + + I I I II I I 7 I I I I -* ai ■* CO OS CI r i-i.-i-*ci-fi-iooa) -tiOi-i ^.^., ^y., -i-i^^-^-^/-, — r/-, (-71010505(35050 ClG5COi3iCjOTGCCOC35COCr:a;C10i NC^C^^C^C^C^C^N^NC^C^ClC^Cq^q - -ri rt :2; a o ^ ■■1 be 3 C< H 5 Cl5 'rt & . > ■- C s "^pq 51 § Si" o O ^■■s,-^ A 1 s fl i^ To To "S.s.s K^ f^H^CC' Tfl M &+> .— I I I I li— li— li-H ,i-Ht— li— ti— (i— li— Ii-Ht-H I I I ■ T— li— IrHi-Hi-H— -I— IC^l 7 I ' I ' ' I M ' I M I ' '? I I M II "+ II 1 I I II 1 i^f I I I I I I I I If if^T'i ' ss^"s^S5^-'K]sn CO OT ^ C^ 10 OD CO C-T CO tC CI C^ CJ OC CO' CO CO *-0 CO O-^rPiOiO—t-HO — OCOaiO-rC3t-t--iC-f'y30^COC-. COTf^OCOCOSiO 1 + 11 -'"71 1777 1 1 1 1 1 II 17777777 -t^l0OGC0DI-^^HT--al^~O-1'C0-f^0l-■.0C0C0^0OC0T-^ | t^c^iMOiC^r- o -)f ^C-t o U3 CO c■^-ra>c1c^lOQoaicolInc^c^-^o toco-* »oocoo:dx cacrjcc ^t '•jDOOTt^iocDr-'oor^-ico.-'.-fioc^ibcofi'ibt-coob'-'.^bco'i^ 1 ++ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ,1111111 II 1 1 CJ-t -f-J'tO:ocOiOC1 COrfi tOCQ-P lO"ft*Q0tO COCO C<1 ^Oi— l-r^l0tr!r-(OO>>-OC0O.— "OOiOCO-^iOI>-COOOi-(i— lOCO-OCD I++I 1 17^-" 1 1-^-^71 1 II 1 1-^77-^^777 p 1, M 1 tOioc^iccoi --i r-i c--!£tTrccco-fH-j?-^-^-rco-*'-t"Ci r-ccT— .ci.-ico :r^cri.r:d'~oooOGicrjCic^c^cric:~. csCiCM3i3^cicncococ;cooic; c^ CI ci c- o ? s s I \^\g\\\g | >, M a; X ? ^ m ^ '^ ^ .S.S.S'-.S DCCCTOC-1^2 GO -* O 00 ' I I I I I I I I I I I I M I I I I I I I I I lO O O cc CO -t< .— I r- . CO C<] (M -t< I I I I I I JO :c to M O CO -* CCiO L ' I I I I I I ! I I I I I ' I I I I I I I I I I I I III t^ t*^ CS -rcoi— i(r5coa:c:i— icot^ CC 00 M (M 00 +^.f+^2:f_:j.s cro o rh o o o bo &jc ^4_ a^ t)jD^ -f -r o '■'- fi ^ 2 C^ClCC:OOOTt*Tt o > O ■z, ffi P^ O PM o I 1 w <1 o n '72 pq o < o I— I C5 O v-1 O P5 O H fd s- O a t3 pa ^3 Si w" 2 *fa^g \ 1 „T3T3 fM"^„ t-- CO iO lO I I I I I M I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I M I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I i I I I I I i I i I I I I I ! I I I I I I I coop o V, ^'r-'tf-'-j oo^ :aE)- CT-^iOtT1(M10 -to -■■J3*^^'X'iC'*-rfTf"co:OCCC^-*CC'+ ■ O C^ lO 00 C^ C^ lO CI f ' CSl 00 C3 CI c^i ic I I I I I M I I I I I I I M I I I I I I I I I I I I I M ■XitO CO CO CO GOTfH -t^-O CO CCCqcCiO 00 OD'-CM^ tO I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I [[ I M M I I [ I I . . . . ^ c^ = ^ t?^ w I I CO -f CO -rfi -^ I I I ■ ■ IN I I I I I I I I I I I I I 1 I I I I I I I I g| m a CO-^tD^tpODCOcOcO -^OCO 00 ::£ CO C] JO Cn| CC ^OOO cT TTTTTTTTTTTTtTTTTTTTT rrni^^^^ HiMco-f^iO':ct^coa;o^cqt:oTj (M -:t"X= H..Sfe: !ZJ .3 J^a ^^^ .H|aStera...tec,3HK . df^ ,-1 o ■-;: :d CO t- .-1 ?0 -t* (M (M iO Ti iC 1 M 1 1 1 1 T -P CO CO cor-1— lOt^GCcicDb-GO li CO CO CO "* lO m lo lO c-a 1 ! 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ; 1 1 CO 1 1 1 1 CI 1 I I I I I I I I I I I MM I I CO -t^ ' I ! t^.-^ ■* t- ID TP CM - g5 I I ' OO QO W Cn CI iM CI CI CI CQ I QOa>4-3S'^Qg'3'S3^r^d S'd g^SSgggS C^ CI CM T-( GO rf C-l ly? o (M CO Tf 1 1 M 1 — ■ CO GO C3 Tf "^ lO CO MM (M CI -f CO CO o -^ CO o -rr i-l-HfClX.-^fCOC:;(Oibi-iOO-TtH':tiiCpO':fa> TtHcocofinioiiOiCpTrci.— iTfcoioiccO"^ TfTf 1 1 1 [ 1 1 1 1 1 { 1 1 1 1 1 ' 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 t 1 1 1 CJ IC CI iC lO iO iO CO O iTi OC CO iQ OOCOCO-^-i^TPlOCO'W-COCO'riOOOiCiTPC^T-l-t^COiOOCOCOCQTt' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 1 i 1 1 ! 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 COCOi— (CJCliCC^COiO T-iC^OiCSOiCl'-H-^TPi— t ciaicoc i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 X t>- :C' -T< -^ o cc lo cc oi' ■■yj t^ t^ o C3 (M c^i i^ o T— oi a; "Xi lo o I— 1 io to c: t* o JO Tl'T-tHCO-T-rTJ.-i^TO'MC^ CQ-T-t-CO-f-ri-H.-HT-H^CO.-IClCOIMi-lT-lrH S '''''' ' ' -d o O 'sajim TjH X" ^D -t' CO -^ -# O -# -^ CJ CO X O :D -^ CI -J CO C-J CO C^ CO C^ ■* OO lO (N Tfi CO o Q '^0JO^^[ K 4^ rt p^ ^ (M O -rt" CI O iO lO <0 lO m _ i^ >- ^ ■*oiQ'rt'0-tHC<)i-HCOTr"^cqc-i-T--t*-:riTr>-f«io-tiCJi^icocoi— (-+'co'riiHT-ico ^^ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 lO O lO -fH JQ C-1 C-.1 C] O C3 t- »0 lO lO OS ■ -*OiOco-r-*(M■-^c■';-t'-rc^^rM-p-t'+'-tl'*•-tl-^T-l^^^cocO'— i-rcoc-j.-Hr-!CO 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 ! M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 OO^li-HCOCCiOOfMOrHC^SOaJT^tMCO-rTf^-t^ClOHDiOTfO OC^IOJ-T P MS 1 o='-3S'=o§ '"SSc S=^<5-S^-= 3-^= 2S""?S qo bQoo^-+cc .f o d^oo^ o*- 1-1 CO O t-- O 1-f -H •r-7HO-f"t^-t^ClCO-t<-rCO 1 COrrT}H-^-t^Tt^'*'tMi-iCJCOC^CO-T(NCqT-:Cq '-'^ 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 II ■— CO o o lO CO c 1 X C3 o X L-- cj o CQ XX m tr:) '^ to x x lo I* lO CO -— ' t-~ -P C". CI CI CI CO 0:> 1 CI -^ -* rH O lO -f lO t* lO t— O CO CTw -X' (O I— 1 CI (=^i -f^-f^)0-t^-P-fCOC^CO-f-:ncO 1 CO-t"T>-*^-r^':f CI rHCICO CI coco CI CI --HC3 J. i^ CI Ci .-< W ^ t^ X ^ i-l O X CO lO -O O Ca CI CO CO -t- CI O- CI t- C3 -O CI Ca i-i c: c: ~- X -r. 1 1 1 1 1 1 c: X c:- X X CI 1 1 1 1 1 X C5 1 1 X c: t i co X d Qj CQ g ^- .-Hi-Hi-li-'rH^r-.-irH.-IClCqCJCqiMtNClClClC^COCC Q ARCTIC ISLAXDS AXD IICDSOX STRAIT 121 ■a o o Q 02 ^ c X iJC' c-i m l:; t-~ X o o ■* I— ' -t" ;:■; o r: 0^ X ■— 1 1— > c-a ^i ci o c- o : 1 1 1 1 M ---------H^ ! 1 1 1 - o t- -r -f lO o o X I- ir: X X o L-' ' c;x'^3booceioc:x^c--ib>-'X)'ri.--'CNi-t-t>.i-ii-(C-i o - 00-3- c::: ■ C^ tT ^ C-1 -^ T3 f ^r -f -f (M Tf iM ;0 -r C-"] -r CC "^-l fM C^I X Tl X CC' Tt" ■^g^^^^^d^^^^^^^^l^^^^^^^^^ 7 ^ .co--OM — ot--oo ■1 1 |,-((N01^03r-l01ClrH^rHi-I r-^01^.-Hi-!,-lr-l ■ ''ill CO ■ 1 ■ -^ 01 iO 01 CO' •-= X X -t^ X 01 XX --0 ■ -f CO oi -D t- r: t- '-' X X ri ^ X -f t- CO. 1 - 1-j T— ^ r~> ■ 1 1 |i-l01C0T-H01i-HClCMt-H,-).— ,— i-ii-HTl^ — .--.-H 1— icoTf-j^LO'CO-foioi-t^-t-tcOr- 1.— i.-HCC'r-.X'— 'co-rx-fiO'O ifiSFi'l '1 '1 '1 '1 '1 '1 '1 '1 '1 l^'iSsSSS'l '1 i '1 'igi c^-r.^-^f-x^o^r,^3n:23SSS8S?3S5S;jS§t;Sg5g 122 CRUISE OF THE ARCTIC o > o o I— i <5 X o o o o o c t-T:3 3 o 2= .>, a. . •- d-U tf t.T3 . rt dJ m O-^ -^ _c >3 >i G d'^-S*'^ C UohOX o K-^ o :> o CO cot> .t o .J- o o ,t o •+ o o o a/ x) o co o o o ■* is =2 o ^oo oo ^o ooq o I O CO CO D •Sr?(ii.a ^ ^ >• >V' [a 63 H H '^ ^ ^ *^ '^ ■ ■ • '^ ■ H W H !^ >■ • H ■ ■ • '^ t/' tncO'^'-'>-'^'^"^CO!»tt!COCOMCO!M,y'cO''^'-'t»COTO!ECO (M ITS '-2 O C^ JO iO C-5 CI I P-ftOlOJO-t"i-lr-IOCVOCO:C«DOCO[r4CCClCOf»t^COQOC»C100C005iO P S •srf[nu 'v^0JOj[ 'O oo Q«^<5 ■^ CO -x; CO (71 (^^ CO CT' ^r- CO CC' CO o CO CO CO 00 CO c-1 CI -t* rp cq :d ^x> CI :s CO ic c^ CO & I I e •■v.-W WHk ClTf W -tHClCl -t^"^ (M-^iOOCO COCO ODCl (NtK' ocor-coo^clC1ClC^O'Hc^c^oo^J3llCllr:l^nllO■-T^cocot>-c^*^cQ-^^.— 'co(!^ i-lrHi-l.-l--HClClC3COCOCOCOCO'COCOW(ncCCOCOCOCOCO(MC*COCOCOCOCOCO :-t":oc^ -f OV .-I CO CJ CO 1-1 -t' O t-- X- CO CO 00 CI 1 nHCico-fiocct^cooO"— IClco-r^ocol>.coc:oT-lc^co-tl^ocot-'Xa^o.-' rHI-l-^1-^— iT-'.- to CM 00 -■ o o COCOS-1 ^^^ -r -^ o CO CO CO lO ,— I— KM^-ti-^citM-r TCOCO^COCOCOCOCO OO — :CO^C':^^C^t^^tO-f— 'COCOfMCOt^O'-HC^TtH—CO^'fO'—'-ir Ci O c:; r; OSOOOOOSSOOOSlllSSSSIIISOSSS'^.SIIIIltilllll i 7 S o 5 ^^S?: O 00 cixx-o (MXixi IM-+ cooi-iofr^co ^j^:;;;^ii;i^;j,j^^^?:^co.-o'Mcor;cococococoTrcocorfHCoo-. rocoio ~iO O cq X* C^ X yjl^ -f ~(M(MCOfO^ lO Cn| GO rH X O CO ^m^4'^^-¥^cbcocococoMcococococococoTt^coco-r^cococococo TpOlO^OO^DO-XSt-'+Ni-HCOlM^O:! X ^ r-t IT^ CO 1-1 -* O rH .-h O i-'_ sssss 'i 'i I i '; 'i I I 'i 'i 1 85sssss?5 'i i ssss?^ 124 CRUISE OF TIIK AKCTIO > < O 'A O i4 H > a: O o o o o o H E c-t B ■2 C fi rf "^ « n the day. in the day. corona from ^ = ^ \ ;5 ^ rH O O ;;;: iCt) o »o -t^ 'f -^ G MCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCO'^-^COCOCOCOrfCOrt'ri'O^COMCQTpCOCOC^rlHOt'CCCO ' H -t- >r^ lO lO OO CO ^ to Tt-iO _ • ri <, lO lO -r lO -^ lO -f -^ h ' ■ Tf o lo ic ct-? m ID ^ 'O lo lo 'X' ic lO sD lO lo tt T lO to oo S o 2 "^ O O^ ^ S S S ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ "^ ^ '^ ^ ^ S 1 1 1 S "^ "^ "^ ^ S ^ :3 O 10 Cir Cir o Cir. Str.C " 10 ■Sd|lUt rtHMCO -CO-^-^^COu-iTf^-^Ttt^Tt^tOCOCMr^OOCCfM •-TCisOOO-.DrflM VlDJOjI ^'i ^ ^>^^;dF^Wf^-H^^^^^^-Hdd^^dd^>^; :xy:x7:HW^ « c/icccAjy^cfjc^cocccccoaj t^co CD (MCONOOuO "S£ ^i "^DOi>:iTt*cococcoT)Tr'-+TtinTt*coTfco«(M-+-t*(MC^-t^ cDTt"ccoom':oot '90JO^,| o ■I' Ci aj;£ ^ ^ "*-tcocc-^^:i-t*-^-ri-rn'-^-t'iO"^M'*t'-T'-t'JOTt'io-i'-ticD-r"T-t''t'-t''j^ ■toco 00 -t'-^fN Id ccio 0000 -r-+<(?qio wiMiocqio -t CO rt CO Tt^ c^ CO -t* lO -r -^ o -+H ^ -t- -fi -r -t^ ..- lo -p lO lO -t^ — 'T -+• -r -r Tt- -t- c^ 2fe -t^cOO'Xit^ f-t<(M'MCO-+''^-t'^-fiO-r-rcO:0-t--t-t'f-(^C)COiOOLD«5 c".' cr^ f— 1 1 1 1 ■ 1 1 1 1 1 j 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ~ 1 1 1 i CI cq a i-HC-lco-t'iO:Cl^'XJ:>C:''HC'lcO'*iCX'i-ajUlO>-iNCOrt^--S ^:=C:oOOOr^c.>;-a5 30S^:0=°^3 -f lo -# ir: -^ CO CO CO CO Tf tM ir; ir; X. -f 00 ic CO O X O tO ■^ ^ --^ t^ iO r- X t:: coco -PTfiOTfCOCO coco "^ - r~ CO CI 1^ *^ CO to -T f CO CO Tf m X — CO LO cr: j-o c: -^ t^ r: -*-rJ O < > o w I— I M <1 o Pi m o hj o o p*j Cm -< O _ W H K s ■ saiiui •f O 10 O cc ^ O O T^ o * Cl CC CO CO iO CO ^ Cl C^ -* CO in> TP CO 'i^H rt« rH rt< CO CO Cl Cl CO p C^ CD '^ CO ■:;: ^ & S:»?:>'^ ^ " ^ >5 g " Jq fei :« ;z; Zi cc t» '^J ^-c 02 CO .yi' ^K*^ 10 10 tM GO CO lO -* cTi C3 in, 10 ■— ■ to CO Tf CO ClCO-^I-l-'-D<7^-t'lO-t^'*oc^cocoob--oiocoii5co(rq"^ir'iocqo-^oof-'^cr:cocQc:ic^ COCOCOCOTr'COCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOTtcoj:.-H-}'MCra:-rrj.ooC^'^aj'»Or-'t^c;:Doococq ARCTIC ISLANDS AND IILTDSON STKAIT 127 Ottawa, April Srd, 1908. Sir, — I havo the honour to inclose herewith photo of coal mine, watercourse ravine, with reflected image, near Franklin Bay, and before closing- my report, I beg- to lay on the map for further examination, the coal belt amongst the Arctic Islands on which coal was found at di-ft'erent times by the explorers during their stay in that part of our country. The following is the location of the coal seams which have been found : — Coal areas in Arctic Islands, from Markman's Great Frozen North, 1878, page 391: Return of the A/erMo Lady Franklin Bay. ' The most imijortant news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene order had been discovered within about three miles of the winter quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large specimens had been carried to the ship. The results of the experiments made ' being- that it was for steaming purposes, equal to the best Welsh coal.' " Page 394. — ' The coal seam was also visited by ditt'ercnt parties of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. Wc were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface on the grovuid, or its thickness.' This drift of bituminous coal starts from Kotzebuo Sound on the mainland of Alaska, and appears next at Corwin coal mine and Thetie coal mine, from where the coal mines at Cape Nome, Alaska, receive their supplies. Coal running in a northeast direction, was found by McClure on Bank Land at Bay of Mercy, 1851-2. Coal was found by Sir Edward Parry in 1819-20, in six dilferent places on Melville Island, following Bathurst Island in two ditfcrent places, also on North Cornwall Island and North Devon Island. In 187ii, the Discovery, which wintered in Lady Franklin Bay, likewise discovered coal. In 1881-2, General Greenly discovered coal at Port Conger. During Lieutenant Parry's exploration, he found and used coal in his winter quarters on the newly dis- covered islands on that last trip. Supposing we did not avail ourselves of this immense wealth of coal for present use, it will no doubt be of great use to the future generations ; and we are in duty bound to exercise the utmost care in protecting and handing do-wn to our children, that which the Creator had, in his beneficence been so kind as to place in our trust. It is of the utmost importance that the Dominion takes possession of all northern regions as far north as the Northpole. Those regions abound in valuable islands which contain vast quantities of coal and other minerals. See description and map herewith. J. E. BERNIER, Coinmander of 'Arctic' Note. — The coal areas were omitted ivom the map referred to above, owing to the difficulty of locating them exactly in the absence of Capt. Bernier. who is now in the Arctic regions. The coal areas are in the carboniferous rocks of Melville, Batlnirst, North Cornwall and North Devon Islands, 4107—15