The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924051382525 
 
Jgsm 
 \ 880 
 
3 1924 051 382 525 
 
THE HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 SIX MONTHS 
 
 AMONG THE 
 
 PALM GROVES, CORAL REEFS, AND 
 VOLCANOES 
 
 OF THE 
 
 SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 By LSABELLA L. BIRD, 
 
 AUTHOR OF THE " ENGLISHWOMAN IN AMERICA," *' A LADV'S LIFE IK THE 
 ROCKY MOUNTAINS," El C. 
 
 ' Summer isles of Eden Ijring v 
 
 In dark purple spheres of sea.'' 
 
 THIRD EDITION. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 LONDON : 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 1880. 
 
BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 UNBEATEN TRACKS IN JAPAN. An 
 
 Account of Teavels on Horseback chiefly in the 
 Northern Districts of Japan, including Visits to ihe 
 Aborigines of Yezo and the Shrines op Nikko and 
 IsiS. With Illustrations, 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 
 
 A LADY'S LIFE in the ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Third Edition, with Illustrations, Post 8vo, los. bd. 
 
MY SISTER, 
 
 TO WHOM THESE LETTERS WERE ORIGINALLY WRITTEN 
 THEY ARE NOW AFFECTIONATELY 
 
 IBetJicateti. 
 
PREFATORY NOTE TO THE SECOND 
 EDITION. 
 
 The kindness with which this volume has been received by 
 the press and public, both in this country and on the Hawaiian 
 Islands, renders the preparation of another edition a pleasant 
 task. When the book was published last year I was under 
 some apprehension that several errors, arising from hasty 
 observation, had been made, and it is a source of much grati- 
 fication to me, that the verdict of the Hawaiian press and 
 people is unanimous both as to the accuracy of the facts stated, 
 and the conclusions which have been drawn from them. 
 
 Under these circumstances few alterations are necessary. 
 The concluding chapters have been revised, and the statistical 
 information brought down to the latest date, a few repetitions 
 have been omitted, and I have withdrawn a passage regarding 
 the prospects of the " Honolulu Mission," which, in the opinion 
 of those interested in its success, was calculated to cause 
 discouragement. ' 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
 Edinburgh, 
 Juntf 1876, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Within the last century the Hawaiian islands have 
 been the topic of various works of merit, and some 
 explanation of the reasons which have led me to enter 
 upon the same subject is necessary. 
 
 I was travelling for health, when circumstances induced 
 me to land on the group, and the benefit which I derived 
 from the climate tempted me to remain for nearly seven 
 months. During that time the necessity of leading a 
 life of open air and exercise as a means of recovery, led 
 me to travel on horseback to and fro through the islands, 
 exploring the interior, ascending the highest mountains, 
 visiting the active volcanoes and remote regions which 
 are known to few eyen of the residents, living among the 
 natives, and otherwise seeing Hawaiian life in all its 
 phases. 
 
 At the close of my visit, my Hawaiian friends urged 
 me strongly to publish my impressions and experiences, 
 on the ground that the best books already existing, be- 
 sides being old, treat chiefly of aboriginal customs and 
 habits now extinct, and of the introduction of Christianity, 
 and subsequent historical events. They also represented 
 
ic PREFACE. 
 
 that I had seen the islands more thoroughly than any 
 foreign visitor, and the volcano of Mauna Loa under 
 specially favourable circumstances, and that I had so 
 completely lived the island life, and acquainted myself 
 with the existing state of the country, as to be rather a 
 kamaina* than a stranger, and that consequently I should 
 be able to write on Hawaii with a degree of intimacy as 
 well as freshness. My friends at home, who were in- 
 terested in my narratives, urged me to give them to a 
 wider circle, and my inclinations led me in the same 
 direction, with a longing to make others share some- 
 thing of my own interest and enjoyment. 
 
 The letters which folldw were written to a near rela- 
 tion, and often hastily and under great difficulties of 
 circumstance, but even with these and other disadvan- 
 tages, they appear to me the best form of conveying my 
 impressions in their original vividness. With the excep- 
 tion of certain omissions and abridgments, they are 
 printed as they were written, and for such demerits as 
 arise from this mode of publication, I ask the kind 
 indulgence of my readers. 
 
 Isabella L. Bird. 
 
 January, tJyS- 
 
 * A native word used to signify an old resident. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER ...;.. i 
 
 LETTER I. 
 Auckland — The Mail Steamer Nevada — A South Sea Hurricane — 
 
 The South Pacific Doldrums — The Tropic of Cancer . . . 5 
 
 LETTER n. 
 
 First Impressions of Honolulu — Tropical Vegetation — The Nuuanu 
 /'fl/j— Female Equestrianism — The Hawaiian Hotel — Paradise 
 in the Pacific — Mosquitos 13 
 
 LETTER in. 
 An Oahu Sabbath — A State Pageant— An Abrupt Departure — Inter- 
 Island Travelling — Maui — Contradictory Statements — Wind- 
 ward Hawaii — A Polynesian Paradise — Hilo Fascinations . . 26 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 Beauties of Hilo — Palms and Bananas — My First Hawaiian Ride — 
 
 Hilo Visiting— The Rev. Titus Coan 39 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 Our Equipment for the Volcano Riding "cavalier fashion"- — 
 
 Upa — The Volcano Road — Light in the Darkness — The Crater 
 
 of Kilauea— The House of Pele— The Crater House . . . 45 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 ' ' Too much chief eat up people " — Lomi-Lomi — Volcanic Possi- 
 bilities 60 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 lAGB 
 
 Hilo Homes— Hilo Gossip— rorelgn Life— The National Disli— 
 
 Pilikia and Aloha — Smf-board Riding 63 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 Windward Hawaii— "Gulches" — The Mexican Saddle— Onomea — 
 
 A Sugar Plantation— Sugar making— The ruling interest . . 71 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Ephy Austin— A Hawaiian Menage — Diet and Dress — Fern-hunting 
 
 — A Primeval Forest . 79 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Isolation — A Native School — A Young Savage — "BolaBolas" — 
 
 Nocturnal Diversions — Native Hospitality — Evening Prayer . 84 
 
 LETTER X. — continued. 
 
 The Waipio Fall — "Bessie Twinker" — William Wallace— Cities of 
 
 Refuge — Human Sacrifices — Legendary Tyrants . . . • 97 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 A Moonlight Start — Native Hospitality — Native Luxury — A- Council 
 of War — The Rainy Season — The Melithreftes Pacifica — Pro- 
 spects darken — A Freshet — A Dialogue under Difficulties — A 
 Swim for Life — The " Scotchman's Gulch." .... 102 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 " The High Priest of Pele" — Missionary Hardships — A Renowned 
 Baptism— The "Revival"— A Tidal Wave— Kapiolani's He- 
 roism — Lava Flows and Earthquakes 114 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 A Royal Landing — The Royal Procession — Pima Woods — Lunalilo — 
 The Hookupu—'Loyai. Enthusiasm— The Gift-bearers — The Gifts 
 — The King's Speech 125 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 Cookery— " Father Lyman's" Party— Lunalilo's Intelligence— A '""^ 
 Hilo " At Home "—The last of Upa 138 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 An Imitation Gale — Leeward Hawaii— A Heathen Temple The 
 
 Waimea Plains— The Early Settlers— Native Criticism . . 143 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 A Grass Lodge — Alone among "Savages" — A Dizzy Pali— Out of 
 theWorld— Elysium— A Lapse into Savagery— A Troubled Night 
 — The Waimanu Valley— A Silent World— A /"i'/a/a . . 151 
 
 LETTER XVn. 
 
 Beautiful Lahaina !— The Leper Island— Sister Phoebe— A Family 
 
 School — Gentle Discipline — Local Difficulties . . . .165 
 
 LETTER XVin. 
 
 Social Hurry— A Perfect Climate — Honolulu "Lions" — Queen 
 Emma — A Royal Garden Party — Dwindling of the Native Popu- 
 lation — Coinage and Newspapers . . . . . j^q 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 Hawaiian Women— The Honolulu Market — Annexation and Reci- 
 procity — A Probable Future — The " Rolling Moses. " . . 181 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 The "Trades'' — An Inter-Island Passage — A Missionary Family 
 
 Physical Features of Kauai — Liquor Laws — A Plant of Renown 
 
 — A Domestic School 188 
 
 LETTER XXI. 
 
 The Charms of Kauai — Kaluna the Second— A Patriarchal Establish- 
 ment — A Family Romance — A Typical Caflon — The Blessing of 
 Plenty igg 
 
xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Koloa Woods— Brklal Rejoicings— Native Peculiarities — Missionary- 
 Matters — Risks attending an exclusively Native Ministry . . 209 
 
 LETTER XXIII. 
 
 " Sundovi^ning" — An Evening Ride — The Vale of Hanalei — Ex- 
 quisite Enjoyment — " Paniola." ....... 2l5 
 
 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 The Princess Keelikolani — The Paradise of Maui — An Island Sahara 
 — The Dead Volcano of Haleakala — Cloud Scenery — Maui Hos- 
 pitality 221 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 Incidents of Travel— A New Light — Tropical Cold — A Hawaiian 
 Desert — A Mountain Sheep Station — Mauna Kea and its Tufa 
 Cones ............ 229 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 Alone with Nature — A Light Equipment — Kahele — A Garrulous As- 
 semblage— A Paralysed Village — Hilo ...... 237 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 Puna, the Home of the Cocoa-palm — A Magical Spring— A Leper 
 
 Exodus — ^" Bill Ragsdale " — Self-sacrifice of Father Damiens . 242 
 
 LETTER XXVIII. 
 
 The "Unexpected" happens — Hilo Kindness — A Venerable Pair 
 
 of Stockings— Preparations for the Ascent of Mauna Loa . . 247 
 
 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 A Second Visit to Kilauea— Remarkable Changes in Halemaumau 
 —Terrible Aspects of the Pit— Theory and Aspects of the 
 "Blowing Cones"— A Shock of Earthquake — A Mountain 
 Ranch .... 250 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER 'KXlX.—coittmued. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Ascent of Mauna 'Lo^—Pahoehoe and a. a. — The Crater of Mokua- 
 weoweo — The Great Fire Fountain — Our Camp — A Night Scene 
 — An Alarming Ride .... . . 262 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 Captain Cook's Monument — Dreamland — The Dead Volcano of 
 Hualalai — Lassoing Cattle — "Praying to Death" — The Hono- 
 lulu Mission ... 277 
 
 LETTER XXXL 
 
 The Climate of the Islands — Their Advantages — Their Drawbacks — 
 Gossip — Nuhou — Evils of an E.xotic Civilization — Aloha nui to 
 Hawaii-nei 288 
 
 LEPROSY AND THE LEPER SETTLEMENT ON MO- 
 
 LOKAI 293 
 
 A CHAPTER ON HAWAIIAN AFFAIRS . . . .301 
 A CHAPTER ON HAWAIIAN HISTORY . . 310 
 
THE 
 
 HAWAIIAN 
 ARCHIPELAGO 
 
 oKAtir,\ 
 
 To face page i of Narrative. 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN THE 
 
 SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 
 
 Canon Kingsley, in his charming book on the West 
 Indies, says, " The undoubted fact is known I find to few- 
 educated English people, that the Coco palm, which produces 
 coir rope, cocoanuts, and a hundred other useful things, is not 
 the same plant as the cacao bush which produces chocolate, 
 or anything like it. I am sorry to have to insist upon this 
 fact, but till Professor Huxley's dream and mine is fulfilled, 
 and our schools deign to teach, in the intervals of Greek and 
 Latin, some slight knowledge of this planet, and of those of 
 its productions which are most commonly in use, even this 
 fact may need to be re-stated more than once." 
 
 There is no room for the supposition that the intelligence of 
 Mr. Kingsley's " educated English" acquaintance is below the 
 average, and I should be sorry to form an unworthy estimate- 
 of that of my own circle, though I have several times met with 
 the foregoing confusion, as well as the following and other 
 equally ill-informed questions, one or two of which I reluctantly 
 admit that I might have been guilty of myself before I visited 
 the Pacific : " Whereabouts are the Sandwich Islands ? They 
 are not the same as the Fijis, are they ? Are they the same as. 
 Olaheite ? Are the natives all cannibals? What sort of idols- 
 
2 HA WAIL [introductory 
 
 do they worship ? Are they as pretty as the other South Sea 
 Islands ? Does the king wear clothes ? Who do they belong 
 to ? Does any one live on them but the savages ? Will any- 
 thing grow on them ? Are the people very savage ? " etc. 
 Their geographical position is a great difficulty. I saw a gen- 
 tleman of very extensive information looking for them on the 
 map in the neighbourhood of Tristan d'Acunha ; and the pub- 
 lishers of a high-class periodical lately advertised " Letters 
 from the Sandwich Islands" as " Letters from the South Sea 
 Islands." In consequence of these and similar interrogatories, 
 which are not altogether unreasonable, considering the imper- 
 fect teaching of physical geography, the extent of this planet, 
 the multitude of its productions, and the enormous number of 
 islands composing Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia, it is 
 necessary to preface the following letters with as many preli- 
 minary statements as shall serve to make them intelligible. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands do not form one of the South Sea 
 groups, and have no other connexion with them than certain 
 affinities of race and language. They constitute the only im- 
 portant group in the vast North Pacific Ocean, in which they 
 are so advantageously placed as to be pretty nearly equidistant 
 from California, Mexico, China, and Japan. They are in the 
 torrid zone, and extend from 18° 50' to 22° 20' north latitude, 
 and their longitude is from 154° 53' to 160° 15' west firom 
 Greenwich. They were discovered by Captain Cook in 
 1778. 
 
 They are twelve in number, but only eight are inhabited, and 
 these vary in size from Hawaii, which is 4000 square miles in 
 extent, and 88 miles long by 73 broad, to Kahoolawe, which 
 is only 11 miles long and 8 broad. Their entire superficial 
 area is about 6,100 miles. They are to ^ome extent bounded 
 by barrier reefs of coral, and have few safe harbours. Their 
 formation is altogether volcanic, and they possess the largest 
 perpetually active volcano and the largest extinct crater in the 
 world. They are very mountainous, and two mountain summits 
 on Hawaii are nearly 14,000 feet in height. Their climate for 
 salubrity and general equability is reputed the finest on earth. 
 It is almost absolutely equable, and a man may take his choice 
 between broiling all the year round on the sea level on the 
 leeward side of the islands at a temperature of 80°, and enjoying, 
 the charms of a fireside at an altitude where there is frost 
 every night of the year. There is no sickly season, and there 
 .are no diseases of locaUty. The trade winds blow for nine 
 
CHAPTER.] EXPLANATIONS AND THANKS. 3 
 
 months of the year, and on the windward coasts there is an 
 abundance of rain, and a perennial luxuriance of vegetation. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands are not the same as Otaheite nor as 
 the Fijis, from which they are distant about 4000 miles, nor 
 are their people of the same race. The natives are not can- 
 nibals, and it is doubtful if they ever were so. Their idols 
 only exist in missionary museums. They cast them away 
 voluntarily in 181 9, at the very time when missionaries from 
 America sent out to Christianise the group were on their way 
 round Cape Horn. The people are all clothed, and the king, 
 who is an educated gentleman, wears the European dress. 
 The official designation of the group is " Hawaiian Islands," 
 and they form an independent kingdom. 
 
 The natives are not savages, most decidedly not. They are 
 on the whole a quiet, courteous, orderly, harmless, Christian 
 - community. The native population has declined from 400,000 
 as estimated by Captain Cook in 1778 to 49,000, according to 
 the census of 1872. There are about 5000 foreign residents, 
 who live on very friendly terms with the natives, and are 
 mostly subjects of Kalakaua, the king of the group. 
 
 The Hawaiians show a great aptitude for political organi- 
 sation, and the islands have a thoroughly civilized polity. 
 They constitute a limited monarchy, and have a constitutional 
 and hereditary king, a parliament with an upper and lower 
 house, a cabinet, a standing army, a police force, a Supreme 
 •Court of Judicature, a most efficient postal system, a Governor 
 and Sheriff on each of the larger islands, court officials, and 
 court etiquette, a common school system, custom houses, a 
 civil list, taxes, a national debt, and most of the other ameni- 
 ties and appliances of civilization. 
 
 There is no State Church. The majority of the foreigners, 
 as well as of the natives, are Congregationalists. The mis- 
 sionaries translated the Bible and other books into Hawaiian, 
 taught the natives to read and write, gave the princes and 
 nobles a high class education, induced the king and chiefs to 
 renounce their oppressive feudal rights, with l^gal advice 
 framed a constitution which became the law of the land, and 
 obtained the recognition of the little Polynesian kingdom as a 
 member of the brotherhood of civiHzed nations. 
 
 With these few remarks I leave the subject of the volume to 
 develop itself in my letters. In correcting them I have availed 
 myself of the very valuable " History of the Hawaiian Islands," 
 by Mr. Jackson Jarves, Ellis' " Tour Round Hawaii," Mr. 
 
4. HA WAIL [introductory. 
 
 Brigham's valuable monograph on " The Hawaiian Volcanoes," 
 and sundry reports presented to the legislature during its 
 present session. I have also to express my obligations to the 
 Hon. E. Allen, Chief Justice and Chancellor of the Hawaiian 
 kingdom, Mr. Manley Hopkins, author of " Hawaii," Dr. T. 
 M. Coan, of New York, Professor W. Alexander, Daniel Smith, 
 Esq., and other friends at Honolulu, for assistance most kindly 
 rendered. 
 
 Isabella L. Bird. 
 
LETTER I. 
 
 Auckland — The Mail Steamer Nevada — A South Sea Hurricane — The 
 South Pacific Doldrums — The Tropic of Cancer. 
 
 Steamer Nevada, North Pacific, Jan. i<jth.. 
 
 A WHITE, unwinking, scintillating sun blazed down upon 
 Auckland, New Zealand. Along the white glaring road from 
 Onehunga, dusty trees and calla lilies drooped with the heat. 
 Dusty thickets sheltered the cicada, whose triumphant din 
 grated and rasped through the palpitating atmosphere. In 
 dusty enclosures, supposed to be gardens, shrivelled geraniums, 
 scattered sparsely, alone defied the heat. Flags drooped in 
 the stifling air. Men on the verge of sunstroke plied their 
 tasks mechanically. Dogs, with flabby and protruding tongues, 
 hid themselves away under archway shadows. The stones of 
 the sidewalks and the bricks of the houses radiated a furnace 
 heat. All nature was limp, dusty, groaning, gasping. The 
 day was the climax of a burning fortnight of heat, drought, 
 and dust, of baked, cracked, dewless land, and oily, breezeless 
 seas, of glaring days, passing through fiery sunsets into stifling 
 nights. 
 
 I only remained long enough in the capital to observe that 
 it had a look of having seen better days, and that its business 
 streets had an American impress, and, taking a boat at a wharf, 
 in whose seams the pitch was melting, I went off to the steamer 
 Nevada, which was anchored out in the bay, preferring to spend 
 the night in her than in the unbearable heat on shore. She 
 belongs to the Webb line, an independent mail adventure, now 
 dying a natural death, undertaken by the New Zealand Govern- 
 ment, as much probably out of jealousy of Victoria as anything 
 else. She nearly foundered on her last voyage, and her pas- 
 sengers unanimously signed a protest against her unseaworthy 
 condition. She was condemned by the Government surveyor, 
 and her mails were sent to Melbourne, She has, however, 
 
6 HAWAII. [LETTER I. 
 
 been patched up for this trip, and eight passengers, including 
 myself, have trusted ourselves to her. She is a huge paddle- 
 steamer, of the old-fashioned American type, deck above deck, 
 balconies, a pilot-house abaft the foremast, two monstrous 
 walking beams, and two masts which, possibly in case of need, 
 might serve as jury masts. 
 
 Huge, airy, perfectly comfortable as she is, not a passenger 
 stepped on board without breathing a more earnest prayer 
 than usual that the voyage might end propitiously. The very 
 first evening statements were whispered about to the effect that 
 her state of disrepair is such that she has not been to her own 
 port for nine months, and has been sailing for that time without 
 a certificate ; that her starboard shaft is partially fractured, and 
 that to reduce the strain upon it the floats of her starboard 
 wheel have been shortened five inches, the strain being further 
 reduced by giving her a decided list to port ; that her crank is 
 " bandaged," that she is leaky, that her mainmast is sprung, 
 and that with only four hours' steaming many of her boiler 
 tubes, even some of those put in at Auckland, had already 
 given way. I cannot testify concerning the mainmast, though 
 it certainly does comport itself like no other mainmast! ever 
 saw ; but the other statements, and many more which might be 
 added, are, I believe, substantially correct. That the caulking 
 of the deck was in evil case we very soon had proof, for heavy 
 rain on deck was a smart shower in the saloon and state rooms, 
 keeping four stewards employed with buckets and swabs, and 
 compeUing us to dine in waterproofs and rubber shoes. 
 
 In this dilapidated condition, when two days out from Auck- 
 land, we encountered a revolving South Sea hurricane, suc- 
 cinctly entered in the log of the day as " Encountered a very 
 severe hurricane with a very heavy sea." It began at eight in 
 the morning, and never spent its fury till nine at night, and 
 the wind changed its direction eleven times. The Nevada left 
 Auckland two feet deeper in the water than she ought to have 
 been, and laboured heavily. Seas struck her under the guards 
 with a heavy, explosive thud, and she groaned and strained as 
 if she would part asunder. We held no communication with 
 each other, or with those who could form any rational estimate 
 of the probabilities of our destiny ; no officials appeared ; the 
 ordinary invariable routine of the steward department was 
 suspended without notice ; the sounds were tremendous, and a 
 hot, lurid obscurity filled the atmosphere. Soon after four the 
 clamour increased, and the shock of a sea blowing up a part 
 
LETTER I.] A SOUTH' SEA HURRICANE. 7 
 
 of the fore-guards made the groaning fabric reel and shiver 
 throughout her whole bulk. At that time, by common con- 
 sent, we assembled in the deck-house, which had windows 
 looking in all directions, and sat there for five hours. Very 
 few words were spoken, and very little fear was felt. We 
 understood by intuition that if our crazy engines failed at any 
 moment to keep the ship's head to the sea, her destruction 
 would not occupy half an hour. It was all palpable. There 
 was nothing which the most experienced seaman could explain 
 to the merest novice. We hoped for the best, and there was 
 no use in speaking about the worst. Nor, indeed, was speech 
 possible, unless a human voice could have outshrieked the 
 hurricane. 
 
 In this deck-house the strainings, sunderings, and groanings 
 were hardly audible, or rather were overpowered by a sound 
 which, in thirteen months' experience of the sea in all weathers, 
 I have never heard, and hope never to hear again, unless in a 
 staunch ship, one loud, awful, undying shriek, mingled with a 
 prolonged, relentless hiss. No gathering strength, no languid 
 fainting into momentary lulls, but one protracted, gigantic 
 scream. And this was not the whistle of wind through 
 cordage, but the actual sound of air travelling with tremendous 
 velocity, carrying with it minute particles of water. Nor was 
 the sea running mountains high, for the hurricane kept it down. 
 Indeed during those fierce hours ilo sea was visible, for the 
 whole surface was caught up and carried furiously into the air, 
 like snow-drift on the prairies, sibilant, relentless. There was 
 profound quiet on deck, the little life which existed being con- 
 centrated near the bow, where the captain was either lashed to 
 the foremast, or in shelter in the pilot-house. Never a soul 
 appeared on deck, the force of the hurricane being such that 
 for four hours any man would have been carried off his feet. 
 Through the swift strange evening our hopes rested on the 
 engine, and amidst the uproar and din, and drifting spray, and 
 shocks of pitiless seas, there was a sublime repose in the 
 spectacle of the huge walking beams, alternately rising and 
 falling, slowly, calmly, regularly, as if the Nevada were on a 
 holiday trip within the Golden Gate. At eight in the evening 
 we could hear each other speak, and a little later, through the 
 great masses of hissing drift we discerned black water. At 
 nine Captain Blethen appeared, smoking a cigar with non- 
 chalance, and told us that the hurricane had nearly boxed the 
 compass, and had been the most severe he had known for 
 
8 HA WAIL [LETl-ER I. 
 
 seventeen years. This grand old man, nearly the oldest captain 
 in the Pacific, won our respect and confidence fi'om the first, 
 and his quiet and masterly handling of this dilapidated old ship 
 is beyond all praise. 
 
 When the strain of apprehension was mitigated, we became 
 aware that we had not had anything to eat since breakfast, a 
 clean sweep having been rrvade, not only of the lunch, but of 
 all the glass in the racks above it; but all requests to the 
 stewards were insufficient to procure even biscuits, and at 
 eleven we retired supperless to bed, amidst a confusion of 
 awful sounds, and were deprived of lights as well as food. 
 When we asked for food or light, and made weak appeals on 
 the ground of faintness, the one steward who seemed to dawdle 
 about for the sole purpose of making himself disagreeable, 
 always rephed, "You can't get anything, the stewards are on 
 duty." We were not accustomed to recognize that stewards 
 had any other duty than that of feeding the passengers, but 
 under the circumstances we meekly acquiesced. We were 
 allowed to know that a part of the foreguards had been carried 
 away, and that iron stanchions four inches thick had been 
 gnarled and twisted like candy sticks, and the constant falling 
 of the saloon casing of the mainmast, showed something wrong 
 there. A heavy clang, heard at intervals by day and night, 
 aroused some suspicions as to more serious damage, and these 
 were afterwards confirmed. As the wind fell the sea rose, and 
 for some hours realized every description I have read of the 
 majesty and magnitude of the rollers of the South Pacific. 
 
 The day after the hurricane something went wrong with the 
 engines, and we were stationary for an hour. We all felt 
 thankful that this derangement, which would have jeopardised 
 or sacrificed sixty lives, was then only a slight detention on a 
 summer sea. 
 
 Five days out from Auckland we entered the tropics with a 
 temperature of 80° in the water, and 85° in the air, but as the 
 light head airs blew the intense heat of our two smoke stacks 
 aft, we often endured a temperature of 110°. There were 
 quiet heavy tropical showers, and a general misty dampness, 
 and the Navigator Islands, with their rainbow-tinted coral 
 forests, their fringe of coco palms, and groves of banyan and 
 breadfruit trees, those sunniest isles of the bright South Seas, 
 resolved themselves into dark lumps looming through a drizzling 
 mist. But the showers and the dampness were confined to that 
 region, and for the last fortnight an unclouded tropical sun has 
 
LETTER I.] THE NAVIGATOR GROUP. 9 
 
 blazed upon our crawling ship. The boiler tubes are giving 
 way at the rate of from ten to twenty daily, the fracture in the 
 shaft is extending, and so, partially maimed, the old ship drags 
 her 320 feet of length slowly along. The captain is continually 
 in the engine-room, and we know when things are looking 
 more unpropitious than usual by his coming up puffing his 
 cigar with unusual strength of determination. It has been so 
 far a very pleasant voyage. The moral, mental, and social- 
 qualities of my fellow-passengers are of a high order, and since 
 the hurricane we have been rather hke a family circle than a 
 miscellaneous, accidental group. For some time our days went 
 by in reading aloud, working, chess, draughts, and conversation, 
 with two hours at quoits in the afternoon for exercise ; but four 
 days ago the only son of Mrs. Dexter, who is the only lady on 
 board besides myself, ruptured a blood vessel on the lungs, and 
 lies in a most critical state in the deck-house from which he has 
 not been moved, requiring most careful nursing, incessant 
 fanning, and the attention of two persons by day and night. 
 Mrs. D. had previously won the regard of every one, and I had 
 learned to look on her as a friend from whom I should be 
 grieved to part The only hope for the young man's life is 
 that he should be landed at Honolulu, and she has urged me 
 so strongly to land with her there, where she will be a complete 
 stranger, that I have consented to do so, and consequently 
 shall see the Sandwich Islands. This severe illness has cast a 
 great gloom over our circle of six, and Mr. D. continues in a 
 state of so much exhaustion and peril that all our arrangements 
 as to occupation, recreation, and sleep, are made with reference 
 to a sick, and as we sometimes fear, a dying man, whose state is 
 much aggravated by the maltreatment and stupidity of a dilapi- 
 dated Scotch doctor, who must be at least eighty, and whose 
 intellects are obfuscated by years of whisky drinking. Two of 
 the gentlemen not only show the utmost tenderness as nurses, 
 but possess a skill and experience which are invaluable. They 
 never leave him by night, and scarcely take needed rest even 
 in the day, one or other of them being always at hand to 
 support him when faint, or raise him on his pillows. 
 
 It is not only that the Nevada is barely seaworthy, and has 
 kept us broiling in the tropics when we ought to have been at 
 San Francisco, but her fittings are so old. The mattresses 
 bulge and burst, and cockroaches creep in and out, the deck is 
 so leaky that the water squishes up under the saloon matting 
 as we walk over it, the bread swarms with minute ants, and we 
 
lO HAWAII. [lETTERI. 
 
 have to pick every piece over because of weevils. Existence 
 at night is an unequal fight with rats and cockroaches, and at 
 meals with the stewards for time to eat. The stewards out- 
 number the passengers, and are the veriest riff-raff I have seen 
 on board ship. At meals, when the captain is not below, their 
 sole object is to hurry us from the table in order that they may 
 sit down to a protracted meal; they are insulting and dis- 
 obliging, and since illness has been on board, have shown a 
 want of common humanity which places them below the rest of 
 their species. The unconcealed hostility with which they 
 regard us is a marvellous contrast to the natural or purchasable 
 civility or servility which prevails on British steamers. It has 
 its comic side too, and we are content to laugh at it, and at all 
 the other oddities of this vaunted " Mail Line." 
 
 Our most serious grievance was the length of time that we 
 were kept in the damp inter-island region of the Tropic of 
 Capricorn. Early breakfasts, cold plunge baths, and the perfect 
 ventilation of our cabins, only just kept us alive. We read, 
 wrote, and talked like automatons, and our voices sounded 
 thin and far away. We decided that heat was less felt in 
 exercise, made up an afternoon quoit party, and played, un- 
 sheltered from the nearly vertical sun on decks so hot that we 
 required thick boots for the protection of our feet, but for 
 three days were limp and faint, and hardly able to crawl about 
 or eat. The nights were insupportable. We used to lounge 
 on the bow, and retire late at night to our cabins, to fight the 
 heat, and scare rats and kill cockroaches with slippers, until 
 driven by the solar heat to rise again unrefreshed to warstlt 
 through another relentless day. We read the " Idylls of the 
 King," and talked of misty meres and reedy fens, of the cool 
 north, with its purple hills, leaping streams, and life-giving 
 breezes, of long northern winters, and ice and snow, but the 
 realities of sultriness and damp scared away our coolest imagi- 
 nations. 
 
 In this dismal region, when about forty miles east of Tutuila, 
 a beast popularly known as the "Flying fox"* alighted on 
 our rigging, and was eventually captured as a prize for the 
 zoological collection at San Francisco. He is a most interest- 
 ing animal, something like an exaggerated bat. His wings are 
 formed of a jet black membrane, and have a highly polished 
 claw at the extremity of each, and his feet consist of five 
 
 * A Frugiferous bat. 
 
LETTER I.] CALMS IN THE TROPICS. Ii 
 
 beautifully polished long black claws, with which he hangs on 
 bead downwards. His body is about twice the size of that of 
 a very large rat, black and furry underneath, and with red, foxy 
 fur on the head and back. His face is pointed, with a very 
 black nose and prominent black eyes with a savage, remorse- 
 less expression. His wings, when extended, measure forty- 
 eight inches across, and his flying powers are prodigious. He 
 snapped like a dog at first, but is now quite tame, and devours 
 quantities of dried figs, the only diet he will eat. 
 
 We crossed the Equator in Long. 159° 44' W., but in con- 
 sequence of the misty weather it was not till we reached 
 Lat. 10° 6' N. that the Pole star, cold and pure, glistened far 
 above the horizon, and two hours later we saw the coruscating 
 Pleiades, and the starry belt of Orion, the blessed familiar 
 constellations of " auld lang syne," and a " breath of the cool 
 north," the first I have felt for five months, fanned the tropic 
 night and the calm, silvery Pacific. From that time we have 
 been indifferent to our crawling pace, except for the sick man's 
 sake. The days dawn in rose colour and die in gold, and 
 through their long hours a sea of delicious blue shimmers 
 beneath the sun, so soft, so blue, so dreamlike, an ocean 
 worthy of its name, the -enchanted region of perpetual calm, 
 and an endless summer. Far off", for many an azure league, 
 rims of rock, fringed with the graceful coco palm, girdle still 
 lagoons, and are themselves encircled by coral reefs on which 
 the ocean breaks all the year in broad drifts of foam. Myriads 
 of flying fish, and a few dolphins and Portuguese men-of-war 
 flash or float through the scarcely undulating water. But we 
 look in vain for the " sails of silk and ropes of sendal " which 
 are alone appropriate to this dream-world. The Pacific in this 
 region is an indolent, blue expanse, pure and lon,ely, an almost 
 untraversed sea. We revel in these tropic days of transcendent 
 glory, in the balmy breath which just stirs the dreamy blue, in 
 the brief, fierce crimson sunsets, in the soft splendour of the 
 nights, when the moon and stars hang like lamps out of a lofty 
 and distant vault, and in the pearly crystalline dawns, when the 
 sun rising through a veil of rose and gold " rejoices as a giant 
 to run his course," and brightens by no " pale gradations " into 
 the " perfect day." 
 
 P.S. — To-morrow morning we expect to sight land. In spite 
 of minor evils, our voyage has been a singularly pleasant one. 
 The condition of the ship and her machinery warrants the 
 
12 HA WAIT. [letter i. 
 
 strongest condemnation, but her discipline is admirable, and 
 so are many of her regulations, and we might have had a much 
 more disagreeable voyage in a better ship. Captain Blethen is 
 beyond all praise, and so is the chief engineer, whose duties 
 are incessant and most harassing, owing to the critical state of 
 the engines. The Nevada now presents a grotesque appear- 
 ance, for within the last few hours she has received such an 
 added list to port that her starboard wheel looks nearly out of 
 the water. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER II. 
 
 First Impressions of Honolulu — Tropical Vegetation — The Nuuanu Pali — 
 Female Equestrianism — The Hawaiian Hotel — Paradise in the Pacific 
 — Mosquitos. 
 
 Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu, Jan. 2.6th. 
 
 Yesterday morning at 6.30 I was aroused by the news 
 that " The Islands " were in sight. Oahu in the distance, a 
 group of grey, barren peaks rising verdureless out of the lonely 
 sea, was not an exception to the rule that the first sight of land 
 is a disappointment. Owing to the clear atmosphere, we 
 seemed only five miles off, but in reality we were twenty, and 
 the land improved as we neared it. It was the fiercest day we 
 had had, the deck was almost too hot to stand upon, the sea, 
 and sky were both magnificently blue, and the unveiled sun 
 turned every minute ripple into a diamond flash. As we ap- 
 proached, the island changed its character. There were lofty 
 peaks, truly — grey and red, sun-scorched, and wind-bleached, 
 glowing here and there with traces of their fiery origin ; but 
 they were cleft by deep chasms and ravines of cool shade and 
 entrancing greenness, and falling water streaked their sides — 
 a most welcome vision after eleven months of the desert sea,, 
 and the dusty browns of Australia and New Zealand. Nearer 
 yet, and the coast line came into sight, fringed by the feathery 
 cocoanut tree of the tropics, and marked by a long line of surf. 
 The grand promontory of Diamond Head, its fiery sides now 
 softened by a haze of green, terminated the wavy line of palms ; 
 then the Punchbowl, a perfect, extinct crater, brilliant with 
 every shade of red volcanic ash, blazed against the green skirts 
 of the mountains. We were close to the coral reef before the 
 cry, " There's Honolulu ! " made us aware of the proximity of 
 the capital of the island kingdom, and then, indeed, its exist- 
 ence had almost to be taken upon trust, for besides the lovely 
 wooden and grass huts, with deep verandahs, which nestled 
 under palms and bananas on soft green sward, margined by 
 the bright sea sand, only two church spires and a few grey 
 roofs appeared above the trees. 
 
14 -HA WAIT. [letter ii. 
 
 We were just outside the reef, and near enough to hear that 
 deep sound of the surf which, through the ever serene summer 
 years girdles the Hawaiian Islands with perpetual thunder, 
 before the pilot glided alongside, bringing the news which 
 Mark Twain had prepared us to receive with interest, that 
 "Prince Bill" had been unanimously elected to the throne. 
 The surf ran white and pure over the environing coral reef, and 
 as we passed through the narrow channel, we almost saw the 
 coral forests deep down under the Nevada's keel ; the coral 
 iishers plied their graceful trade ; canoes with outriggers rode 
 the combers, and glided with inconceivable rapidity round oui 
 ship; amphibious brown beings sported in the transparent 
 waves ; and within the reef lay a calm surface of water of a 
 wonderful blue, entered by a narrow, intricate passage of the 
 deepest indigo. And beyond the reef and beyond the blue, 
 nestUng among cocoanut trees and bananas, umbrella trees 
 and breadfruits, oranges, mangoes, hibiscus, algaroba, and 
 passion-flowers, almost hidden in the deep, dense greenery, 
 was Honolulu. Bright blossom of a summer sea ! Fair Para- 
 dise of the Pacific ! 
 
 Inside the reef the magnificent iron-clad California and 
 another large American war vessel, the Benicia, are moored in 
 line with the British corvette Scout, within 200 yards of the 
 shore ; and their boats were constantly passing and re-passing, 
 among countless canoes filled with natives. Two coasting 
 schooners were just leaving the harbour, and the inter-island 
 steamer Kilauea, with her deck crowded with natives, was just 
 coming in. By noon the great decrepit Nevada, which has no 
 wharf at which she can lie in New Zealand, was moored along- 
 side a very respectable one in this enterprising little Hawaiian 
 capital. 
 
 We looked down from the towering deck on a crowd of two 
 or three thousand people— whites. Kanakas, Chinamen — and 
 hundreds of them at once made their way on board, and 
 streamed over the ship, talking, laughing, and remarking'upon 
 us in a language which seemed without backbone. Such rich 
 brown men and women they were, with wavy, shining black 
 hair, large, brown, lustrous eyes, and rows of perfect teeth like 
 ivory. Everyone was smiling. The forms of the women seemed 
 to be inclined towards obesity, but their drapery, which con- 
 sists of a sleeved garment which falls in ample and unconfined 
 folds from their shoulders to their feet, partly conceals this 
 defect, which is here regarded as a beauty. Some of these 
 
LETTER II.] A BROWN CROWD. 15 
 
 dresses were black, but many of those worn by the younger 
 women were of pure white, crimson, yellow, scarlet, blue, or 
 light green. The men displayed their lithe, graceful figures to 
 the best advantage in white trousers and gay Garibaldi shirts. 
 A few of the women wore coloured handkerchiefs twined round 
 their hair, but generally both men and women wore straw hats, 
 which the men set jauntily on one side of their heads, and 
 heightened their picturesqueness yet more by bandana hand- 
 kerchiefs of rich, bright colours round their necks, knotted 
 loosely on the left side, with a grace to which, I think, no 
 Anglo-Saxon dandy could attain. Without an exception the 
 men and women wore wreaths and garlands of flowers, carmine, 
 orange, or pure white, twined round their hats, and thrown 
 carelessly round their throats, flowers unknown to me, but 
 redolent of the tropics in fragrance and colour. Many of the 
 young beauties wore the gorgeous blossom of the red hibiscus 
 among their abundant, unconfined, black hair, and many, be- 
 sides the garlands, wore festoons of a sweet-scented vine, or of 
 an exquisitely beautiful fern, knotted behind, and hanging half- 
 way down their dresses. These adornments of natural flowers 
 are most attractive. Chinamen, all alike, very yellow, with 
 almond-shaped eyes, youthful, hairless faces, long pigtails, spot- 
 lessly clean clothes, and an expression of mingled cunning and 
 simplicity, " foreigners," half-whites, a few negroes, and a very 
 few dark-skinned Polynesians from the far-ofi' South Seas, made 
 up the rest of the rainbow-tinted crowd. 
 
 The "foreign" ladies, who were there in great numbers, 
 generally wore simple, light prints or muslins, and white straw 
 hats, and many of them so far conformed to native custom as 
 to wear natural flowers round their hats and throats. But 
 where were the hard, angular, careworn, sallow, passionate 
 faces of men and women, such as form the majority of every 
 crowd at home, as well as in America and Australia? The 
 conditions of life must surely be easier here, and people must 
 have found rest from some of its burdensome conventionalities. 
 The foreign ladies, in their simple, tasteful, fresh attire, inno- 
 cent of the humpings and bunchings, the monstrosities and 
 deformities of ultra-fashionable bad taste, beamed with cheer- 
 fulness, friendliness, and kindliness. Men and women looked 
 as easy, contented, and happy as if care never came near them. 
 I never saw such healthy, bright complexions as among the 
 women, or such "sparkling smiles," or such a diffusion of 
 feminine grace and graciousness anywhere. 
 
i6 HAWAII. [letter II. 
 
 Outside this motley, genial, picturesque crowd about 200 
 saddled horses were standing, each with the Mexican saddle, 
 with its lassoing horn in front, high peak behind, immense 
 wooden stirrups, with great leathern guards, silver or brass 
 bosses, and coloured saddle-cloths. The saddles were the only- 
 element of the picturesque that these Hawaiian steeds possessed. 
 They were sorry, lean, undersized beasts, looking in general as if 
 the emergencies of life left them little time for eating or sleeping. 
 They stood calmly in the broiling sun, heavy-headed and heavy- 
 hearted, with flabby ears and pendulous lower lips, Hmp and 
 rawboned, a doleful type of the " creation which groaneth and 
 travaileth in misery." All these belonged to the natives, who are 
 passionately fond of riding. Every now and then a flower- 
 wreathed Hawaiian woman, in her full, radiant garment, sprang 
 on one of these animals astride, and dashed along the road at 
 full gallop, sitting on her horse as square and easy as a hussar. 
 In the crowd and outside of it, and everywhere, there were 
 piles of fruit for sale — oranges and guavas, strawberries, 
 papayas, bananas (green and golden), cocoanuts, and other 
 rich, fantastic productions of a prolific climate, where nature 
 gives of her wealth the whole year round. Fishes, strange in 
 shape and colour, crimson, blue, orange, rose, gold, such fishes 
 as flash like living light through the coral groves of these en- 
 chanted seas, were there for sale, and coral divers were there 
 with their treasures — branch coral, as white as snow, each 
 perfect specimen weighing from eight to twenty pounds. But 
 no one pushed his wares for sale — we were at liberty to look 
 and admire, and pass on unmolested. No vexatious restric- 
 tions obstructed our landing. A sum of two dollars for the 
 support of the Queen's Hospital is levied on each passenger, 
 and the examination of ordinary luggage, if it exists, is a mere 
 form. From the demeanour of the crowd it was at once 
 apparent that the conditions of conquerors and conquered do 
 not exist. On the contrary, many of the foreigners thejre were 
 subjects of a Hawaiian king, a reversal of the ordinary relations 
 between a white and a coloured race which it is not easy yet 
 to appreciate. 
 
 Two of my fellow-passengers, who were going on to San 
 Francisco, were anxious that I should accompany them to the 
 Fali, the great excursion from Honolulu; and leaving Mr. 
 
 M to make all arrangements for the Dexters and myself, 
 
 we hired a buggy, destitute of any pecuharity but a native 
 driver, who spoke nothing but Hawaiian, and left the ship. 
 
LETTER II.J TROPICAL TREES. 17 
 
 This place is quite unique. It is said that 15,000 people are 
 buried away in these low-browed, shadowy houses, under the 
 glossy, dark-leaved trees, but except in one or two streets of 
 miscellaneous, old-fashioned-looking stores, arranged with a 
 distinct leaning towards .native tastes, it looks like a large 
 village, or rather like an aggregate of villages. As we drove 
 through the town we could only see our immediate surround- 
 ings, but each had a new fascination. We drove along roads 
 with over-arching trees, through whose dense leafage the noon 
 sunshine only trickled in dancing, broken lights ; umbrella 
 trees, caoutchouc, bamboo, mango, orange, breadfruit, candle- 
 nut, monkey pod, date and coco palms, alligator pears, " prides " 
 of Barbary, India, and Peru, and huge-leaved, wide-spreading 
 trees, exotics from the South Seas, many of them rich in para- 
 sitic ferns, and others blazing with bright, fantastic blossoms. 
 The air was heavy with odours of gardenia, tuberose, oleanders, 
 roses, lilies, and the great white trumpet-flower, and myriads 
 of others whose names I do not know, and verandahs were 
 festooned with a gorgeous trailer with magenta blossoms, 
 passion-flowers, and a vine with masses of trumpet-shaped, 
 yellow, waxy flowers. The delicate tamarind and the feathery 
 algaroba intermingled their fragile grace with the dark, shiny 
 foliage of the South Sea exotics, and the deep red, solitary 
 flowers of the hibiscus rioted among familiar fuchsias and 
 geraniums, which here attain the height and size of large rhodo- 
 dendrons. 
 
 Few of the new trees surprised me more than the papaya. 
 It is a perfect gem of tropical vegetation. It has a soft, in- 
 dented stem, which runs up quite straight to a height of from 
 15 to 30 feet, and is crowned by a profusion of large, deeply 
 indented leaves, with long foot-stalks, and among, as well as 
 considerably below these, are the flowers or the fruit, in all 
 stages of development. This, when ripe, is bright yellow, and 
 the size of a musk melon. Clumps of bananas, the first sight 
 of which, like that of the palm, constitutes a new experience, 
 shaded the native houses with their wonderful leaves, broad and 
 deep green, from five to ten feet long. The breadfruit is a superb 
 tree, about 60 feet high, with deep green, shining leaves, a foot 
 broad, sharply and symmetrically cut, worthy, from their ex- 
 ceeding beauty of form, to take the place of the acanthus in 
 architectural ornament, and throwing their pale green fruit into 
 delicate contrast. All these, with the exquisite rose apple, 
 with a deep red tinge in its young leaves, the fan palm, the 
 
 c 
 
iS HAWAII. [letter II. 
 
 chirimoya, and numberless others, and the slender shafts of the 
 coco palms rising high above them, with their waving plumes 
 and perpetual fruitage, were a perfect festival of beauty. 
 
 In the deep shade of this perennial greenery the people 
 dwell. The foreign houses show a very various individuality. 
 The peculiarity in which all seem to share is, that everything 
 is decorated and festooned with flowering trailers. It is often 
 difficult to tell what the architecture is, or what is house and 
 what is vegetation; for all angles, lattices, balustrades, and 
 verandahs are hidden by jessamine or passion-flowers, or 
 the gorgeous, flame-like Bougainvillea. Many of the dwellings 
 straggle over the ground without an upper story, and have very 
 deep verandahs, through which I caught glimpses of cool, shady 
 rooms, with matted floors. Some look as if they had been 
 transported from the old-fashioned villages of the Connecticut 
 Valley, with their clap-board fronts painted white, and jalousies 
 painted green ; but then the deep verandah in which families 
 lead an open-air life has been added, and the chimneys have 
 been omitted, and the New England severity and angularity 
 are toned down and draped out of sight by these festoons of 
 large-leaved, bright-blossomed, tropical climbing plants. Be- 
 sides the frame houses there are houses built of blocks of a. 
 cream-coloured coral conglomerate laid in cement, of adobe, or 
 largie sun-baked bricks, plastered ; houses of grass and bamboo ; 
 houses on the ground and houses raised on posts ; but nothing, 
 looks prosaic, commonplace, or mean, for the glow and 
 luxuriance of the tropics rest on all. Each house has a large 
 garden or " yard," with lawns of bright perennial green, and 
 banks of blazing, many-tinted flowers, and lines of Dracaena, 
 and other foliage plants, with their great purple or crimson 
 leaves, and clumps of marvellous lilies, gladiolas, ginger, and 
 many plants unknown to me. Fences and walls are altogether 
 buried by passion-flowers, the night-blowing Cereus, and the 
 tropaeolum, mixed with geraniums, fuchsia, and jessamine, 
 which cluster and entangle over them in indescribable pro- 
 fusion. A soft air moves through the upper branches, and the 
 drip of water from miniature fountains falls musically on the 
 perfumed air. This is mid-winter! The summer, they say, 
 is thermometrically hotter, but practically cooler, because of 
 the regular trades which set in in April, but now, with the 
 shaded thermometer at 80° and the sky without clouds, the 
 heat is not oppressive. 
 
 The mixture of the neat grass houses of the natives with the 
 
LETTER II.] THE NUUANU VALLEY. 19 
 
 more elaborate homes of the foreign residents has a very- 
 pleasant look. The " aborigines " have not been crowded out 
 of sight, or into a special " quarter." We saw many groups of 
 them sitting under the trees outside their houses, each group 
 with a mat in the centre, with calabashes upon it containing 
 foi, the national Hawaiian dish, a fermented paste made from 
 the root of the ka/o, or arum esculmtum. As we emerged on 
 the broad road which leads up the Nuuanu Valley to the 
 mountains, we saw many patches of this halo, a very handsome 
 tropical plant, with large leaves of a bright tender green. 
 Each plant was growing on a small hillock, with water round 
 it. There were beautiful vegetable gardens also, in which 
 Chinamen raise for sale not only melons, pineapples, sweet 
 potatoes, and other edibles of hot climatess, but the familiar 
 fruits and vegetables of the temperate zones. In patches of 
 surpassing neatness, there were strawberries, which are ripe 
 here all the year, peas, carrots, turnips, asparagus, lettuce, and 
 celery. I saw no other plants or trees which grow at home, 
 but recognized as hardly less familiar growths the Victorian 
 Eucalyptus, which has not had time to become gaunt and 
 straggling, the Norfolk Island pine, which grows superbly 
 here, and the handsome Moreton Bay fig. But the chief 
 feature of this road is the number of residences ; I had almost 
 written of pretentious residences, but the term would be a base- 
 slander, as I have jumped to the conclusion that the twin 
 ■vulgarities of ostentation and pretence have no place here. 
 But certainly for a mile and a half or more there are many- 
 very comfortable-looking dwellings, very attractive to the eye, 
 with an ease and imperturbable serenity of demeanour as if 
 they had nothing to fear from heat, cold, wind, or criticism. 
 Their architecture is absolutely unostentatious, and their one 
 beauty is that they are embowered among trailers, shadowed 
 by superb exotics, and surrounded by banks of flowers, while 
 the stately cocoanut, the banana, and the candlenut, the 
 aborigines of Oahu, are nowhere displaced. One house with 
 extensive grounds, a perfect wilderness of vegetation, was 
 pointed out as the summer palace of Queen Emma, or Kale- 
 eonalani, widow of KamehamehalV., who visited England a 
 few years ago, and the finest garden of all as that of a much 
 respected Chinese merchant, named Afong. Oahu, at least on 
 this leeward side, is not tropical looking, and all this tropical 
 variety and luxuriance which delight the eye result from 
 foreign enthusiasm and love of beauty and shade. 
 
20 HAWAII. [letter II 
 
 When we ascended above the scattered dwellings and had 
 passed the tasteful mausoleum, with two tall Kahilis,* or 
 feather plumes, at the door of the tomb in which the last of 
 the Kamehamehas received Christian burial, the glossy, re- 
 dundant, arborescent vegetation ceased. At that height a 
 shower of rain falls on nearly every day in the year, and the 
 
 
 Pi 
 
 The Nuuanu Pali, or Precipice, near Honolulu. 
 
 result is a green sward which England can hardly rival, a' 
 perfect sea of verdure, darkened in the valley and more than 
 half way up the hill sides by the foliage of the yellow-blossomed 
 land almost impenetrable hibiscus, brightened here and there 
 by the pea-green candlenut Streamlets leap from crags and 
 ripple along the roadside, every rock and stone is hidden by 
 
 • The kahili is shaped like an enormous bottle brush. The finest are 
 sometimes twenty feet high, with handles twelve or fifteen feet long, 
 covered with tortoiseshell and whale tooth ivory. The upper part is 
 formed of a cylinder of wicker work about a foot in diameter, on which 
 red, black, and yellow feathers are fastened. These insignia are carried in 
 procession instead of banners, and used to be fixed in the ground near the 
 temporary residence of the king or chiefs. At the funeral of the late king 
 seventy-six large and small kahilis were carried by the retainers of chief 
 families. 
 
LETTER II.] THE PALI. 21 
 
 moist-looking ferns, as aerial and delicate as marabout feathers, 
 and when the windings of the valley and the projecting spurs 
 of mountains shut out all indications of Honolulu, in the cool, 
 green loneliness one could imagine oneself in the temperate 
 zones. The peculiarity of the scenery is, that the hills, which 
 rise to a height of about 4,000 feet, are wall-like ridges of 
 grey or coloured rock, rising precipitously out of the trees and 
 grass, and that these walls are broken up into pinnacles and 
 needles. At the Pali (wall-like precipice), the summit of the 
 ascent of 1,000 feet, we left our buggy, and passing through a 
 gash in the rock the celebrated view burst on us with over- 
 whelming effect. Immense masses of black and ferruginous 
 volcanic rock, hundreds of feet in nearly perpendicular height, 
 formed the pali on either side, and the ridge extended north- 
 wards for many miles, presenting a lofty, abrupt mass of grey 
 rock broken into fantastic pinnacles, which seemed to pierce 
 the sky. A broad, umbrageous mass of green clothed the 
 lower buttresses, and fringed itself away in clusters of coco 
 palms on a garden-like stretch below, green with grass and 
 sugar-cane, and dotted with white houses, each with its palm 
 and banana grove, and varied by eminences which looked like 
 long extinct tufa cones. Beyond this enchanted region 
 stretched the coral reef, with its white, wavy line of endless 
 surf, and the broad blue Pacific, ruffled by a breeze whose icy 
 freshness chilled us where we stood. Narrow streaks on the 
 landscape, every now and then disappearing behind inter- 
 vening hills, indicated bridle tracks connected with a frightfully 
 steep and rough zig-zag path cut out of the face of the cliff on 
 our right. I could not go down this on foot without a sense 
 of insecurity, but mounted natives driving loaded horses de- 
 scended with perfect impunity into the dreamland below. 
 
 This /a// is the scene of one of the historic tragedies of this 
 island. Kamehameha the Conqueror, who after fierce fighting 
 and much ruthless destruction of human life united the island 
 sovereignties in his own person, routed the forces of the King 
 of Oahu in the Nuuanu Valley, and drove them in hundreds 
 up the precipice, from which they leaped in despair and mad- 
 ness, and their bones lie bleaching 800 feet below. 
 
 The drive back here was delightful, from the wintry height, 
 where I must confess that we shivered, to the slumbrous calm 
 of an endless summer, the glorious tropical trees, the distant view 
 of cool chasm-hke valleys, with Honolulu sleeping in perpetual 
 shade, and the still, blue ocean, without a single sail to disturb 
 
22 
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 [letter I 
 
 its profound solitude. Saturday afternoon is a gala-day here, 
 and the broad road was so thronged with brilliant equestrians, 
 that I thought we should be ridden over by the reckless rout. 
 There were hundreds of native horsemen and horsewomen, 
 many of them doubtless on the dejected quadrupeds I saw at 
 the wharf, but a judicious application of long rowelled Mexican 
 spurs, and a degree of emulation, caused these animals to tear 
 along at full gallop. The women seemed perfectly at home in 
 their gay. brass-bossed, high peaked saddles, flying along 
 
 The Pau or Hawaiian Ladies' Holiday Riding Dress. 
 
 astride, bare-footed, with their orange and scarlet riding 
 dresses streaming on each side beyond their horses' tails, a 
 bright kaleidoscopic flash of bright eyes, white teeth, shining 
 hair, garlands of flowers and many coloured dresses ; while the 
 men were hardly less gay, with fresh flowers round their jaunty 
 hats, and the vermilion-coloured blossoms of the Ohia round 
 their brown throats. Sometimes a troop of twenty of these 
 free-and-easy female riders went by at a time, a graceful and 
 exciting spectacle, with a running accompaniment of vocifera- 
 tion and laughter. Among these we met several of the 
 
LETi-ERii.] THR HAWAIIAN HOTEL. 23 
 
 NevadcHs officers, riding in the stiff, wooden style which Anglo- 
 Saxons love, and a horde of jolly British sailors from H.M.S. 
 Scout, rushing helter skelter, colliding with everybody, be- 
 striding their horses as they would a topsailyard, hanging on to 
 manes and lassoing horns, and enjoying themselves thoroughly. 
 In the shady, tortuous streets we met hundreds more of native 
 riders, dashing at full gallop without fear of the police. Many 
 of the women were in flowing riding dresses of pure white, 
 over which their unbound hair, and wreaths of carmine-tinted 
 flowers fell most picturesquely. 
 
 All this time I had not seen our domicile, and when our 
 drive ended under the quivering shadow of large tamarind and 
 algaroba trees, in front of a long, stone, two-storied house with 
 two deep verandahs festooned with clematis and passion flowers, 
 and a shady lawn in firont, I felt as if in this fairy land any- 
 thing might be expected. 
 
 This is the perfection of an hotel. Hospitality seems to 
 take possession of and appropriate one as soon as one enters 
 its never-closed door, which is on the lower verandah. 
 Everywhere, only pleasant objects meet the eye. One can 
 sit all day on the back verandah, watching the play of light 
 and colour on the mountains and the deep blue green of the 
 Nuuanu Valley, where showers, sunshine, and rainbows make 
 perpetual variety. The great dining-room is delicious. It 
 has no curtains, and its decorations are cool and pale. Its 
 windows look upon tropical trees in one direction, and up to 
 the cool moimtains in the other. Piles of bananas, guavas, 
 limes, and oranges, decorate the tables at each meal, and 
 strange vegetables, fish, and fruits vary the otherwise stereo- 
 t)rped American hotel fare. There are no female domestics. 
 The host is a German, the manager an American, the steward 
 a Hawaiian, and the servants are all Chinamen in spotless 
 white linen, with pigtails coiled round their heads, and an air 
 of superabundant good-nature. They know very little English, 
 and make most absurd mistakes, but they are cordial, smiling, 
 and obliging, and look cool and clean. The hotel seems the 
 great public resort of Honolulu, the centre of stir — club-house, 
 exchange, and drawing-room in one. Its wide corridors and 
 verandahs are lively with English and American naval uniforms, 
 several planters' families are here for the season; and with 
 health-seekers from California, resident boarders, whaling 
 captains, tourists from the British Pacific Colonies, and a 
 stream of townspeople always percolating through the corridors 
 
24 ffA WAIl. [LETTER II. 
 
 and verandahs, it seems as lively and free-and-easy as_ a place 
 can be, pervaded by the kindliness and bonhomie which 
 form important items in my first impressions of the islands. 
 The hotel was lately built by government at a cost of $120,000, 
 a sum which forms a considerable part of that token of an 
 advanced civiUzation, a National Debt. The minister whose 
 scheme it was seems to be severely censured on account of it, 
 but undoubtedly it brings strangers and their money into the 
 kingdom, who would have avoided it had they been obliged as 
 formerly to cast themselves on the hospitality of the residents. 
 The present proprietor has it rent-free for a tenn of years, but 
 I fear that it is not likely to prove a successful speculation 
 either for him or the government. I dislike health resorts, and 
 abhor this kind of life, but for those who like both, I cannot 
 imagine a more fascinating residence. The charges are $15 a 
 week, or $3 a day, but such a kindly, open-handed system 
 prevails, that I am not conscious that I am paying anything ! 
 This sum includes hot and cold plunge baths ad libitum, justly 
 regarded as a necessity in this climate. 
 
 Dr. McGrew has hope that our invalid will rally in this 
 healing, equable atmosphere. Our kind fellow-passengers are 
 here, and take turns in watching and fanning him. Through 
 the half-closed jalousies we see breadfruit trees, delicate tama- 
 rinds and algarobas, fan-palms, date-palms, and bananas, and 
 the deep blue Pacific gleams here and there through the 
 plumage of the cocoanut trees. A soft breeze, scented with a 
 slight aromatic odour, wanders in at every opening, bringing 
 with it, mellowed by distance, the hum and clatter of the busy 
 cicada. The nights are glorious, and so absolutely still, that 
 even the feathery foliage of the algaroba is at rest. The stars 
 seem to hang among the trees like lamps, and the crescent 
 moon gives more light than the full moon at home. The 
 evening of the day we landed, parties of officers and ladies 
 mounted at the door, and with much mirth disappeared on 
 moonlight rides, and the white robes of flower-crowned girls 
 gleamed among the trees, as groups of natives went by speaking 
 a language which sounded more like the rippling of water than 
 human speech. Soft music came from the ironclads in the 
 harbour, and from the royal band at the king's palace, and a 
 rich scent of dewy blossoms filled the delicious air. These 
 are indeed the "isles of Eden," "the sun lands," musical with 
 beauty. They seem to welcome us to their enchanted shores. 
 Everything is new but nothing strange ; for as I enjoyed the 
 
LETTER ii.J A HONOLULU NIGHT. 25 
 
 purple night, I remembered that I had seen such islands in 
 dreams in the cold, gray North. " How sweet," I thought 
 it would be, thus to hear far off, the low, sweet murmur of 
 the " sparkling brine," to rest, and 
 
 "Ever to seem 
 Falling asleep in a half-dream." 
 
 A half-dream only, for one would not wish to be quite asleep 
 and lose the consciousness of this delicious outer world. So I 
 thought one moment. The next I heard a droning, humming 
 sound, which certainly was not the surf upon the reef. It 
 came nearer — there could be no mistake. I felt a stab, and 
 found myself the centre of a swarm of droning, stabbing, 
 malignant mosquitos. No, even this is not paradise ! I am 
 ashamed to say that on my first night in Honolulu I sought an 
 early refuge from this intolerable infliction, in profound and 
 prosaic sleep behind mosquito curtains. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER III. 
 
 An Oahu Sabbath— A State Pageant — An Abrupt Departure — Inter-Island 
 Travelling— Maui — Contradictory Statements— Windward Hawaii — 
 A Polynesian Paradise — Hilo Fascinations. 
 
 Hawaiian Hotel, Jan. 2&th. 
 
 Sunday was a very pleasant day here. Church bells rang, 
 and the shady streets were filled with people in holiday dress. 
 There are two large native churches, the Kaumakapili, and the 
 Kaiwaiaho, usually called the stone church. The latter is an 
 immense, substantial building, for the erection of which each 
 Christian native brought a block of rock-coral. There is a 
 large Roman Catholic church, the priests of which are said to 
 have been somewhat successful in proselytizing operations. 
 The Reformed Catholic, or English temporary cathedral, is a 
 tasteful but very simple wooden building,' standing in pretty 
 grounds, on which a useful institution for boarding and training 
 native and half-white girls, and the reception of white girls as 
 day scholars, also stands. This is in connection with Miss 
 Sellon's Sisterhood at Devonport. Another building, along- 
 side the cathedral, is used for English service in Hawaiian. 
 There are two Congregational churches : the old " Bethel," of 
 which the Rev. S. C. Damon, known to all strangers, and one 
 of the oldest and most respected Honolulu residents, is the 
 minister ; and the " Fort St. Church," which has a large and 
 influential congregation, and has been said to " run the govern- 
 ment," because its members compose the majority of the 
 Cabinet. LunaUlo, the present king, has cast in his lot with 
 the Congregationalists, but queen Emma is an earnest member 
 of the Anglican Church, and attends the Liturgical Hawaiian 
 Service in order to throw the weight of her influence with the 
 natives into the scale of that communion. Her husband spent 
 many of his later days in translating the Prayer-Book. As is 
 natural, most of the natives belong to the denomination from 
 which they or their fathers received the Christian faith, and 
 
LETTER III.] THE LAST OF THE NEVADA. 27 
 
 the majority of the foreigners are of the same persuasion. The 
 New England Puritan influence, with its rigid Sabbatarianism, 
 though considerably worn away, is still influential enough to 
 produce a general appearance of Sabbath observance. The 
 stores are closed, the church-going is very demonstrative, and 
 the pleasure-seeking is very unobtrusive. The wharves are 
 profoundly quiet. 
 
 I went twice to the English Cathedral, and was interested to 
 see there a lady in a nun's habit, with a number of brown girls, 
 who was pointed out to me as Sister Bertha, who has been 
 working here usefully for many years. The ritual is high. I 
 am told that it is above the desires of most of the island Epis- 
 copalians, but the zeal and disinterestedness of Bishop Willis 
 will, in time, I doubt not, win upon those who prize such 
 qualities. _He called in the afteteoon, and took me to his 
 pretty, unpretending residence up the Nuuanu Valley. He 
 has a training and boarding school there for native boys, some 
 of whom were at church in the morning as a surpliced choir. 
 The bishop, his sister, the schoolmaster, and fourteen boys 
 take their meals together in a refectory, the boys acting as 
 servitors by turns. There is a service every morning at 6.30 
 in the private chapel attached to the house, and also in the 
 cathedral a little later. Early risers, so near the equator, must 
 get up by candlelight all the year round. 
 
 This morning we joined our kind friends from the Nevada 
 for the last time at breakfast. I have noticed that there is 
 often a centrifugal force which acts upon passengers who have 
 been long at sea together, dispersing them on reaching port. 
 Indeed, the temporary, enforced cohesion is often succeeded 
 by violent repulsion. But in this instance we deeply regret 
 the dissolution of our pleasant fraternity ; the less so, however, 
 that this wonderful climate has produced a favourable change 
 in Mr. D., who no longer requires the hourly attention hitherto 
 necessary. The mornings here, dew-bathed and rose-flushed, 
 are, if possible, more lovely than the nights, and people are 
 astir early to enjoy them. The American consul and Mr. 
 Damon called while we were sitting at our eight-o'clock break- 
 fast, from which I gather that formalities are dispensed with. 
 After spending the morning in hunting among the stores for 
 things which were essential for the invalid, I lunched in the 
 Nevada with Captain Blethen and our friends. 
 
 Next to the advent of "national slaips" (a euphemism for 
 men-of-war), the arrivals and departures of the New Zealand 
 
28 HA WAIT. [LETTER Hi. 
 
 mail-Steamers constitute the great excitement of Honolulu, and 
 the failures, mishaps, and wonderful unpunctuality of this 
 Webb line are highly stimulating in a region where " nothing 
 happens." The loungers were saying that the Nevadds pumps 
 were going for five days before we arrived, and pointed out the 
 clearness of the water which was running from them at the 
 wharf as an evidence that she was leaking badly.* The crowd 
 of natives was enormous, and the foreigners were there in 
 hundreds. She was loading with oranges and green bananas 
 up to the last moment, — those tasteless bananas which, out of 
 tlie tropics, misrepresent this most delicious and ambrosial 
 fruit. 
 
 There was a far greater excitement for the natives, for King 
 Lunalilo was about to pay a state visit to the American flag- 
 ship California, and every available place along the wharves 
 and roads was crowded with kanakas anxious to see him. I 
 should tell you that the late king, being without heirs, ought to 
 have nominated his successor ; but it is said that a sorceress, 
 under whose influence he was, persuaded him that his death 
 would follow upon this act. When he died, two months ago, 
 leaving the succession unprovided for, the duty of electing a 
 sovereign, according to the constitution, devolved upon the 
 people through their representatives, and they exercised it with 
 a combination of order and enthusiasm which reflects great 
 credit' on their civilization. They chose the highest chief on 
 the islands, Lunalilo (Above All), known among foreigners as 
 " Prince Bill," and at this time letters of congratulation are 
 pouring in upon him from his brethren, the sovereigns of 
 Europe. 
 
 The spectacular effect of a pageant here is greatly heightened 
 by the cloudless blue sky, and the wealth of light and colour. 
 It was very hot, almost too hot for sight-seeing, on the Nevadds 
 bow. Expectation among the lieges became tremendous and 
 vociferous when Admiral Pennock's sixteen-oared barge, with a 
 handsome awning, followed by two well-manned boats, swept 
 across the strip of water which lies between the ships and the 
 shore. Outrigger canoes, with garlanded men and women, were 
 poised upon the motionless water, or darted gracefully round the 
 ironclads, as gracefully to come to rest. Then a stir and sway- 
 
 * A week after her sailing, this vmlucky ship put back with some 
 mysterious ailment, and on her final arrival at San Francisco, her condition 
 was found to be such that it was a marvel that she had made the passaee 
 at all. ^ ^ 
 
LETTER m.] A STATE PAGEANT. 29 
 
 ing of the crowd, and the American Admiral was seen standing 
 at the steps of an English barouche and four, and an Hawaiian 
 imitation of an English cheer rang out upon the air. More 
 cheering, more excitement, and I saw nothing else till the 
 Admiral's barge, containing the Admiral, and the King dressed 
 in a plain morning suit with a single decoration, swept past 
 the Nevada. The suite followed in the other boats, — brown 
 men and white, governors, ministers, and court dignitaries, in 
 Windsor uniforms, but with an added resplendency of plumes, 
 epaulettes, and gold lace. As soon as Lunalilo reached the 
 California, the yards of the three ships were manned, and 
 amidst cheering which rent the air, and the deafening thunder 
 of a royal salute from sixty-three guns of heavy calibre, the 
 popular descendant of seventy generations of sceptred savages 
 stepped on board the flag-ship's deck. No higher honours 
 could have been paid to the Emperor " of all the Russias." I 
 have seen few sights more curious than that of the representa- 
 tive of the American Republic standing bare-headed before a 
 coloured man, and the two mightiest empires on earth paying 
 royal honours to a Polynesian sovereign, whose little kingdom 
 in the North Pacific is known to many of us at home only as 
 " the group of islands where Captain Cook was killed." Ah ! 
 how lovely this Queen of Oceans is ! Blue, bright, balm- 
 breathing, gentle in its strength, different both in motion and 
 colour from the coarse " vexed Atlantic ! " 
 
 Steamer KilaueA, January z<jth. 
 
 I was turning homewards, enjoying the prospect of a quiet 
 week in Honolulu, when Mr. and Mrs. Damon seized upon me, 
 and told me that a lady friend of theirs, anxious for a com- 
 panion, was going to the volcano on Hawaii, that she was a 
 most expert and intelligent traveller, that the Kilauea would 
 sail in two hours, that unless I went now I should have no 
 future opportunity during my limited stay on the islands, that 
 Mrs. Dexter was anxious for me to go, that they would more 
 than fill my place in my absence, that this was a golden oppor- 
 tunity, that in short I must go, and they would drive me back 
 to the hotel to pack ! The volcano is still a myth to me, and I 
 wanted to " read up " before going, and above all was grieved 
 to leave my friend, but she had already made some needful 
 preparations, her son with his feeble voice urged my going, the 
 doctor said that there was now no danger to be apprehended, 
 
30 HA WAIL [LETTER III. 
 
 and the Damons' kind urgency left me so little choice, that by 
 five I was with them on the wharf, being introduced to my 
 travelling companion, and to many of my fellow-passengers. 
 Such an unexpected move is very bewildering, and it is too 
 experimental, and too much of a leap in the dark to be enjoy- 
 able at present. 
 
 The wharf was one dense, well-compacted mass of natives 
 taking leave of their friends with much effusiveness, and the 
 steamer's deck was crowded with them, till there was hardly 
 room to move; men, women, children, dogs, cats, mats, cala- 
 bashes of poi, cocoanuts, bananas, dried fish, and every dusky 
 individual of the throng was wreathed and garlanded with 
 odorous and brilliant flowers. All were talking and laughing, 
 and an immense amount of gesticulation seems to emphasise 
 and supplement speech. We steamed through the reef in the 
 brief, red twilight, over the golden tropic sea, keeping on the 
 leeward side of the islands. Before it was quite dark the sleep- 
 ing arrangements were made, and the deck and skylights were 
 covered with mats and mattresses on which 170 natives sat, 
 slept, or smoked, — a motley, parti-coloured mass of humanity, 
 in the midst of which I recognized Bishop Willis in the usual 
 episcopal dress, lying on a mattress among the others, a prey to 
 discomfort and weariness ! What would his episcopal brethren 
 at home think of such a hardship ? 
 
 There is a yellow-skinned, soft-voiced, fascinating Goa or 
 Malay steward on board, who with infinite goodwill attends to 
 the comfort of everybody. I was surprised when he asked me 
 if I would like a mattress on the skylight, or a berth below, and 
 in unhesitating ignorance replied severely, "Oh, below, of 
 course, please," thinking of a ladies' cabin, but when I went 
 down to supper my eyes were enlightened. 
 
 The Kilauea is a propeller of 400 tons, most unprepossess- 
 ing in appearance, slow, but sure, and capable of bearing an 
 infinite amount of battering. It is jokingly said that her keel 
 has rasped off the branch coral round all the islands. Though 
 there are many inter-island schooners, she is the only sure mode 
 of reaching the windward islands in less than a week • and 
 though at present I am disposed to think rather slightingly of . 
 her, and to class her with the New Zealand coasting craft, yet 
 the residents are very proud of her, and speak lovingly of her, 
 and regard her as a blessed deliverance from the horrors of 
 beating to windward. She has a shabby, obsolete look about 
 her, like a second-rate coasting collier, or an old American 
 
LETTER III.] A REMARKABLE ARRANGEMENT. 31 
 
 tow-boat She looks ill-found, too ; I saw two essential pieces 
 of tackle give way as they were hoisting the main sail. She has 
 a small saloon with a double tier of berths, besides transoms, 
 which give accommodation on the level, of the lower berth. 
 There is a stem cabin, which is a prolongation of the saloon, 
 and not in any way separated from it. There is no ladies' 
 cabin ; but sex, race, and colour are included in a promiscuous 
 arrangement. 
 
 Miss Karpe, my travelUng companion, and two agreeable 
 ladies, were already in their berths very sick, but I did not get 
 into mine because a cockroach, looking as large as a mouse, 
 occupied the pillow, and a companion not much smaller was 
 roaming over the quilt without any definite purpose. I can't 
 vouch for the accuracy of my observation, but it seemed to me 
 that these tremendous creatures were dark red, with eyes hke 
 lobsters', and antennae two inches long. They looked capable 
 of carrying out the most dangerous and inscrutable designs. 
 I called the Malay steward ; he smUed mournfully, but spoke 
 reassuringly, and pledged his word for their innocuousness, but 
 I never can believe that they are not the enemies of man ; and 
 I lay down on the transom, not to sleep, however, for it seemed 
 essential to keep watch on the proceedings of these formidable 
 vermin. 
 
 The grotesqueness of the arrangements of the berths and 
 their occupants grew on me during the night, and the climax 
 was put upon it when a gentleman coming down in the early 
 morning asked me if I knew that I was using the Governor of 
 Maui's head for a footstool, this portly native " Excellency " 
 being in profound slumber on the forward part of the transom. 
 This diagram represents one side of the saloon and the 
 " happy family " of English, Chinamen, Hawaiians, and 
 Americans : — 
 
 Governor Lyman. | 
 
 Miss Karpe. 
 
 Miss . 
 
 AfoDg. 1 
 
 Vacant. 
 
 Miss . 
 
 Governor Nahaolelua | 
 
 Myself. 
 
 An Hawaiian. 
 
 I noticed, too, that there were very few trunks and portman- 
 teaus, but that the after end of the saloon was heaped with 
 Mexican saddles and saddlebags, which I learned too late were 
 the essential gear of every traveller on Hawaii. 
 
 At five this morning we were at anchor in the roads of 
 Lahaina, the chief village on the mountainous island of Maui. 
 
32 HA WAIT. [letter in. 
 
 This place is very beautiful from the sea, for beyond the blue 
 water and the foamy reef the eye rests gratefully on a picturesque 
 collection of low, one-storied, thatched houses, many of frame, 
 painted white ; others of grass, but all with deep, cool veran- 
 dahs, half hidden among palms, bananas, kukuis, breadfruit, 
 and mangoes, dark groves against gentle slopes behind, 
 covered with sugar-cane of a bright pea-green. It is but a 
 narrow strip of land between the ocean and the red, flaring, 
 almost inaccessible, Maui hills, which here rise abruptly to a 
 height of 6,000 feet, pinnacled, chasmed, buttressed, and 
 almost verdureless, except in a few deep clefts, green and cool 
 with ferns and candlenut trees, and moist with falling water. 
 Lahaina looked intensely tropical in the roseflush of the early 
 morning, a dream of some bright southern isle, too surely to 
 pass away. The sun blazed down on shore, ship, and sea, 
 glorifying all things through the winter day. It was again 
 ecstasy " to dream and dream " under the awning, fanned by 
 the light sea-breeze, with the miurmur of an unknown musical 
 tongue in one's ears, and the rich colouring and graceful group- 
 ing of a tropical race around one. We called at Maaleia, a 
 neck of sandy, scorched, verdureless soil, and at Ulupalakua, 
 or rather at the furnace seven times heated, which is the land- 
 ing of the plantation of that name, on whose breezy slopes 
 cane refreshes the eye at a height of 2,000 feet above the sea. 
 We anchored at both places, and with what seemed to me a 
 needless amount of delay, discharged goods and natives, and 
 natives, mats, and calabashes were embarked. In addition to 
 the essential mat and calabash oipoi, every native carried some 
 pet, either dog or cat, which was caressed, sung to, and talked 
 to with extreme tenderness ; but there were hardly any children, 
 and I noticed that where there were any, the men took charge 
 of them. There were very few fine, manly dogs ; the pets in 
 greatest favour are obviously odious, weak-eyed, pink-nosed 
 Maltese terriers. 
 
 The aspect of the sea was so completely lazy, that it was a 
 fresh surprise as each indolent undulation touched the shore 
 that it had latent vigour left to throw itself upwards into clouds 
 of spray. We looked through limpid water into cool depths 
 where strange bright fish darted through the submarine chap- 
 paral, but the coolness was imaginary, for the water was at 80°. 
 The air above the great black lava flood, which in pre- 
 historic times had flowed into the sea, and had ever since 
 declined the kindly, draping offices of nature, vibrated in waves 
 
LETTER III.] ANTI-MISSIONARY STATEMENTS. 33 
 
 of heat. Even the imperishable cocoanut trees, whose tall, bare, 
 curved trunks rose from the lava or the burnt red earth, were 
 gaunt, tattered, and thirsty-looking, weary of cr)dng for moisture 
 to the pitiless skies. At last the ceaseless ripple of talk ceased, 
 crew and passengers slept on the hot deck, and no sounds were 
 heard but the drowsy flap of the awning, and the drowsier creak 
 of the rudder, as the Kilauea swayed sleepily on the lazy 
 undulations. The flag drooped and fainted with heat. The 
 white sun blazed like a magnesium light on blue water, black 
 lava, and fiery soU, roasting, blinding, scintillating, and flushed 
 the red rocks of Maui into glory. It is all glorious, this fierce 
 bright glow of the Tropic of Cancer, yet it was a relief to look 
 up the great rolling, featureless slopes above Ulupalakua to a 
 forest belt of perennial green, watered, they say, by perpetual 
 showers, and a little later to see a mountain summit uplifted 
 into a region of endless winter, above a steady cloud-bank as 
 white as snow. This mountain, Haleakala, the House of the 
 Sun, is the largest extinct volcano in the world, its terminal 
 crater being nineteen miles in circumference at a height of 
 more than 10,000 feet. It, and its spurs, slopes, and clusters 
 ©f small craters form East Maui. West Maui is composed 
 mainly of the picturesque group of the Eeka mountains. A 
 desert strip of land, not much above high water mark, unites- 
 the twain, which form an island forty-eight miles long and 
 thirty broad, with an area of 620 square miles. 
 
 We left Maui in the afternoon, and spent the next six hours- 
 in crossing the channel between it and Hawaii, but the short, 
 tropic day did not allow us to see anything of the latter island 
 but two snow-capped domes uplifted above the clouds. I have 
 been reading Jarves' excellent book on the islands as indus- 
 triously as possible, as well as trying to get information from^ 
 my fellow-passengers regarding the region into which I have 
 been so suddenly and unintentionally projected. I really know 
 nothing about Hawaii, or the size and phenomena of the 
 volcano to which we are bound, or the state of society or of 
 the native race, or of the relations existing between it and the 
 foreign population, or of the details of the constitution. This 
 ignorance is most oppressive, and I see that it will not be 
 easily enlightened, for among several intelligent gentlemen who 
 have been conversing with me, no two seem agreed on any 
 matter of fact. 
 
 From the hour of my landing I have observed the existence 
 of two parties of ^ro and anti missionary leanings, with views 
 
34 J^A WAIT. [letter hi. 
 
 on all island subjects in grotesque antagonism. So far, the 
 former have left the undoubted results of missionary effort here 
 to speak for themselves ; and I am almost disposed, from the 
 pertinacious aggressiveness of the latter party, to think that it 
 must be weak. I have already been seized upon (a gentle- 
 man would write " button-holed ") by several persons, who, in 
 their anxiety to be first in imprinting their own views on the 
 tabula rasa of a stranger's mind, have exercised an unseemly 
 over-haste in giving the conversation an anti-missionary twist. 
 They apparently desire to convey the impression that the New 
 England teachers, finding a people rejoicing in the innocence 
 and simplicity of Eden, taught them the knowledge of evil, 
 turned them into a nation of hypocrites, and with a mingling 
 of fanaticism and selfishness, afflicted them with many woes 
 calculated to accelerate their extinction, clothing among others. 
 The animus appears strong and bitter. There are two intelli- 
 gent and highly educated ladies on board, daughters of mis- 
 sionaries, and the candid and cautious tone in which they 
 speak on the same subject impresses me favourably. Mr. 
 Damon introduced me to a very handsome half white gentle- 
 man, a lawyer of ability, and lately interpreter to the Legis- 
 lature, Mr. Ragsdale, or, as he is usually called, " Bill Ragsdale," 
 a leading spirit among the natives. His conversation was 
 eloquent and poetic, though rather stilted, and he has a good 
 deal of French mannerism ; but if he is a specimen of native 
 patriotic feeling, I think that the extinction of Hawaiian 
 nationality must be far off. I was amused with the attention 
 that he paid to his dress under very adverse circumstances. 
 He has appeared in three different suits, with light kid gloves 
 to match, all equally elegant, in two days. A Chinese gentle- 
 man, who is at the same time a wealthy merchant at Honolulu, 
 and a successful planter on Hawaii, interests me, from the keen 
 intelligence of his face, and the courtesy and dignity of his 
 manner. _ I hear that he possesses the respect of the whole 
 conamunityfor his honour and integrity. It is quite unlike an 
 ordinary miscellaneous herd of passengers. The tone is cheer- 
 ful, courteous, and friendly, and people speak without introduc- 
 tions, and help to make the time pass pleasantly to each other. 
 
 HiLo, Hawaii. 
 The Kilaiiea is not a fast propeller, and as she lurched veiy 
 much in crossing the channel most of the passengers were sea- 
 sick, a casualty which did not impair their cheerfulness and 
 
LETTER III.] WINDWARD HAWAII. 35 
 
 good humour. After dark we called at Kawaihae (pronounced 
 To-wee-hye), on the north-west of Hawaii, and then steamed 
 through the channel to the east or windward side. I was only 
 too glad on the second night to accept the offer of " a mattrass 
 on the skylight," but between the heavy rolling caused by the 
 windward swell, and the natural excitement on nearing the 
 land of volcanoes and earthquakes, I could not sleep, and no 
 other person slept, for it was considered " a very rough passage,'' 
 though there was hardly a yachtman's breeze. It would do 
 these Sybarites good to give them a short spell of the howling 
 horrors of the North or South Atlantic, an easterly snowstorm 
 off Sable Island, or a winter gale in the latitude of Inaccessible 
 Island ! The night was cloudy, and so the glare from Kilauea 
 which is often seen far out at sea was not visible. 
 
 When the sun rose amidst showers and rainbows (for this is 
 the showery season), I could hardly believe my eyes. Scenery, 
 vegetation, colour were all changed. The glowing red, the 
 fiery glare, the obtrusive lack of vegetation were all gone. 
 There was a magnificent coast-line of grey cliffs many hundred 
 feet in height, usually draped with green^ but often black 
 and caverned at their bases. Into cracks and caverns the 
 heavy waves surged with a sound like artillery, sending broad 
 sheets of foam high up among the ferns and trailers, and 
 drowning for a time the endless baritone of the surf, which is 
 never silent through the summer years. Cascades in numbers 
 took impulsive leaps from the cliffs into the sea, or came 
 thundering down clefts or "gulches," which, widening at their 
 extremities, opened on smooth, green lawns, each one of 
 which has its grass house or houses, kalo patch, bananas, 
 and coco-palms, so close to the Pacific that its spray often 
 frittered itself away over their fan-like leaves. Above the cliffs 
 there were grassy uplands with park-like clumps of the screw- 
 pine, and candle-nut, and glades and dells of dazzling green, 
 bright with cataracts, opened up among the dense forests which 
 for some thousands of feet girdle Mauna Kea and Mauna Lpa, 
 two vast volcanic mountains, whose snow-capped summits 
 gleamed here and there above the clouds, at an altitude of 
 nearly 14,000 feet. Creation surely cannot exhibit a more 
 brilliant green than that which clothes windward Hawaii with 
 perpetual spring. I have never seen such verdure. In the 
 final twenty-nine miles there are more than sixty gulches, from 
 100 to 700 feet in depth, each with its cataracts, and wild 
 vagaries of tropical luxuriance. Native churches, frame-built 
 
36 HAWAII. [LEITERIII. 
 
 and painted white, are almost like mile-stones along the coast, 
 far too large and too many for the notoriously dwindling popu- 
 lation. Ten miles from Hilo we came in sight of the first 
 sugar plantation, with its patches of yet brighter green, its 
 white boiHng house and tall chimney stack ; then more churches, 
 more plantations, more gulches, more houses, and before ten 
 we steamed into Byron's, or as it is now called Hilo Bay. 
 
 This is the paradise of Hawaii. What Honolulu attempts 
 to be, Hilo is without effort. Its crescent-shaped bay, said to 
 be the most beautiful in the Jacific, is a semi-circle of about 
 two miles, with its farther extremity formed by Cocoanut 
 Island, a black lava islet on which this palm attains great per- 
 fection, and beyond it again a fringe of cocoanuts marks the 
 deep indentations of the shore. From this island to the north 
 point of the bay, there is a band of golden sand on which the 
 roar of the surf sounded thunderous and drowsy as it mingled 
 with the music of the living waters of the Waiakea and the 
 Wailuku, which after lashing the sides of the mountains which 
 give them birth, glide deep and fern-fringed into the ocean. 
 Native houses, half hidden by greenery, line the bay, and stud 
 the heights above the Wailuku, and near the landing some 
 white frame houses and three church spires above the wood 
 denote the foreign element. Hilo is unique. Its climate is 
 humid, and the long repose which it has enjoyed from rude 
 volcanic upheavals has mingled a great depth of vegetable 
 mould with the decomposed lava. Rich soil, rain, heat, sun- 
 shine, stimulate nature to vigorous efforts, and there is a 
 luxuriant prodigality of vegetation which leaves nothing un- 
 covered but the golden margin of the sea, and even that above 
 high-water-mark is green with the Convolvulus maritimus. So 
 dense is the wood that Hilo is rather suggested than seen. It 
 is only on shore that one becomes aware of its bewildering 
 variety of native and exotic trees and shrubs. From the sea 
 it looks one dense mass of greenery, in which the bright foliage 
 of the candle-nut relieves the glossy dark green of the bread- 
 fruit—a maze of preposterous bananas, out of which rise slender, 
 annulated trunks of palms giving their infinite grace to the 
 grove. And palms along the bay, almost among the surf, toss 
 their waving plumes in the sweet, soft breeze, not "palms in 
 exile," but children of a blessed isle where "never wind blows 
 loudly." _ Above Hilo, broad lands sweeping up cloudwards, 
 with their sugar cane, kalo, melons, pine-apples, and banana 
 groves suggest the boundless liberahty of Nature. Woods and 
 
LETTER III.] A POLYNESIAN WELCOME. 37 
 
 waters, hill and valley are all there, and from the region of an 
 endless summer the eye takes in the domain of an endless 
 winter, where almost perpetual snow crowns the summits of 
 Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Mauna Kea from Hilo has a 
 shapely aspect, for its top is broken into peaks, said to be the 
 craters of extinct volcanoes, but my eyes seek the dome-like 
 curve of Mauna Loa with far deeper interest, for it is as yet 
 an unfinished mountain. It has a huge crater on its summit 
 800 feet in depth, and a pit of unresting fire on its side ; it 
 throbs, rumbles, and palpitates ; it has sent forth floods of fire 
 over all this part of Hawaii, and at any moment it may be 
 crowned with a lonely light, showing that its tremendous forces 
 are again in activity. 
 
 Canoes came ofif from the shore, dusky swimmers glided 
 through the waters, youths, athletes, like the bronzes of the 
 Naples Museum, rode the waves on their surf-boards, brilliantly 
 dressed riders galloped along the sands, and came trooping 
 down the bridle-paths from all the vicinity till a inany-coloured, 
 tropical crowd had assembled at the landing. Then a whale- 
 boat came ofif, rowed by eight young men in white linen suits 
 and white straw hats, with wreaths of carmine-coloured flowers 
 round both hats and throats. They were singing a glee in 
 honour of Mr. Ragsdale, whom they sprang on deck to welcome. 
 Our crowd of native fellow-passengers, by some inscrutable 
 process, had re-arrayed themselves and blossomed into brilliancy. 
 Hordes of Hilo natives swarmed on deck, and it became a 
 Babel of alohas, kisses, hand-shakings, and reiterated welcomes. 
 The glee singers threw their beautiful garlands of roses and 
 ^hias over the foreign passengers, and music, flowers, good-will 
 and kindliness made us welcome to these enchanted shores. 
 We landed in a whaleboat, and were hoisted up a rude pier 
 which was crowded, for what the arrival of the Australian mail- 
 steamer is to Honolulu, the coming of the Kilauea is to Hilo. 
 I had not time to feel myself a stranger, there were so many 
 introductions, and so much friendliness. Mr. Coan and Mr. 
 Lyman, two of the most venerable of the two surviving mis- 
 sionaries, were on the landing, and I was introduced to them 
 and many others. There is no hotel in Hilo. The residents 
 receive strangers, and Miss Karpe and I were soon installed 
 in a large, buff frame-house, with two deep verandahs, the resi- 
 dence of Mr. Severance, Sheriff of Hawaii. 
 
 Unlike many other places, Hilo is more fascinating on closer 
 acquaintance, so fascinating that it is hard to write about it in 
 
38 HAWAII. [LETTER III. 
 
 plain prose. Two narrow roads lead up from the sea, to one as 
 narrow, running parallel with it. Further up the hill another 
 runs in the same direction. There are no conveyances, and 
 outside the village these lanes dwindle into bridle-paths, with 
 just room for one horse to pass another. The houses in which 
 Mr. Coan, Mr. Lyman, Dr. Wetmore (formerly of the Mission), 
 and one or two others live, have just enough suggestion of New 
 England about them to remind one of the dominant influence 
 en these islands, but the climate has idealized them, and clothed 
 them with poetry and antiquity. 
 
 Of the three churches, the most prominent is the Roman 
 Catholic Church, a white frame building with two great towers ; 
 Mr. Coan's native church with a spire comes next ; and then 
 the neat little foreign church, also with a spire. The Romish 
 Church is a rather noisy neighbour, for its bells ring at unnatural 
 hours, and doleful strains of a band which cannot play either 
 in time or tune proceed from it. The court-house, a large, 
 buff, painted frame-building with two deep verandahs, standing 
 on a well-kept lawn planted with exotic trees, is the most im- 
 posing building in Hilo. All the foreigners have carried out 
 their individual tastes in their dwelHngs, and the result is very 
 agreeable, though in picturesqueness they must yield the palm 
 to the native houses, which, whether of frame, or grass plain 
 or plaited, whether one or two storeyed, all have the deep 
 thatched roofs and verandahs plain or fantastically latticed, 
 which are in harmony with the surroundings. These lattices 
 and single and double verandahs are gorgeous with trailers, 
 and the general warm brown tint of the houses contrasts artis- 
 tically with the deep green of the bananas which overshadow 
 them. There are living waters everywhere. Each house seems 
 to possess a pure bright stream, which is arrested in bathing 
 houses to be liberated among kalo patches of the brightest 
 green. Every verandah appears a gathering place, and the 
 bright holokus of the women, the gay shirts and bandanas of 
 the men, the brilliant wreaths of natural flowers which adorn 
 both, the hot-house temperature, the new trees and plants which 
 demand attention, the rich odours, and the low monotonous 
 recitative which mourns through the groves make me feel that 
 I am in a new world. Ah, this is all Polynesian ! This must 
 be the land to which the " timid-eyed " lotos-eaters came. There 
 is a strange fascination in the languid air, and it is strangely 
 sweet " to dream of fatherland "... 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER IV. 
 
 Beauties of HUo — Palms and Bananas— My First Hawaiian Ride— Hilo 
 Visiting— Tlie Rev. Titus Coan. 
 
 Hilo, Hawaii. 
 
 I FIND that I can send another short letter before leaving for 
 the volcano. I cannot convey to you any idea of the greenness 
 and lavish luxuriance of this place, where everything flourishes, 
 and glorious trailers and parasitic ferns hide all unsightly 
 objects out of sight. It presents a bewildering maze of lilies, 
 roses, fuchsias, clematis, begonias, convolvuli, the huge grana- 
 dilla, the purple and yellow water lemons, also varieties of 
 passiflora, both with delicious edible fruit, custard apples, rose 
 apples, mangoes, mangostein guavas, bamboos, alligator pears, 
 oranges, tamarinds, papayas, bananas, breadfruit, magnolias, 
 geraniums, candle-nut, gardenias, dracsenas, eucalyptus, panda- 
 nus, ohias* kamani trees, halo,\ noni,X and quantities of other 
 trees and flowers, of which I shall eventually learn the names, 
 patches of pine-apple, melons, and sugar-cane for children to 
 suck, kalo and sweet potatoes. 
 
 In the vicinity of this and all other houses, Chili pepper, 
 and a ginger-plant with a drooping flower-stalk with a great 
 number of blossoms, which when not fully developed have a 
 singular resemblance to very pure porcelain tinted with pink at 
 the extremities of the buds, are to be seen growing in "yards," 
 to use a most unfitting Americanism. I don't know how to 
 introduce you to some of the things which delight my eyes 
 here; but you must try to believe that the specimens of 
 tropical growths which we see in conservatories at home are in 
 general either misrepresentations, or very feeble representations 
 of these growths in their natural homes. I don't allude to 
 flowers, and especially not to orchids, but in this instance very 
 •specially to bananas, coco-palms, and the pandanus. For 
 example, there is a specimen of the Pandanus odoratissimus in 
 the palm-house in the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens, which is cer- 
 
 * Metrosideros Polymorpha. 
 + Colocasia antiquorum (arum esculentum). % Morinda Citrifolia. 
 
40 
 
 HAWAII. [LETTER IV. 
 
 tainly a malignant caricature, with its long straggling branches, 
 and widely-scattered tufts of poverty-stricken foliage. The 
 bananas- and plantains in the same palm-house represent only 
 the feeblest and poorest of their tribe. They require not only 
 warmth and moisture, but the generous sunshine of the tropics 
 for their development. In the same house the date and sugar- 
 palms are tolerable specimens, but the cocoa-nut trees are 
 most truly "palms in exile." 
 
 I suppose that few people ever forget the first_ sight of a 
 palm-tree of any species. I vividly remember seeing one for 
 the first time at Malaga, but the coco-palm groves of the 
 Pacific have a witchery of their own. As I write now I hear the 
 moaning rusde of the wind through their plume-like tops ; and 
 their long, slender stems and crisp crown of leaves rising above 
 the trees with shining leafage which revel in damp, have a sug- 
 gestion of Orientalism about them. How do they come too, 
 on every atoll or rock that raises its head throughout this 
 lonely ocean? They fringe the shores of these islands. 
 Wherever it is dry and fiercely hot, and the lava is black and 
 hard, and nothing else grows, or can grow, there they are, close 
 to the sea, sending their root-fibres seawards in search of salt 
 water. Their long, curved, v/rinkled, perfectly cylindrical 
 stems, bulging near the ground like an apothecary's pestle, 
 rise to a height of from sixty to one hundred feet. These 
 stems are never straight, and in a grove lean and curve every 
 way, and are apparently capable of enduring any force of wind 
 or earthquake. They look as if they had never been young, 
 and they show no signs of growth, rearing their plumy tufts so 
 far aloft, and casting their shadows so far away, always lonely, 
 as though they belonged to the heavens rather than the earth. 
 Then, while all else that grows is green they are yellowish. 
 Their clusters of nuts in all stages of growth are yellow, their 
 fan-like leaves, which are from twelve to twenty feet long, are 
 yellow, and an amber light pervades and surrounds them. 
 They provide milk, oil, food, rope, and matting, and each tree 
 produces about one hundred nuts annually. 
 
 The pandanus, or lauhala, is one of the most striking 
 features of the islands. Its funereal foliage droops in Hilo, 
 and it was it that I noticed all along the windward coast as 
 having a most striking peculiarity of aerial roots which the 
 branches send down to the ground, and which I now see have 
 large cup-shaped spongioles. These air-roots are props, and 
 appear to vary in length from three to twelve feet, according to 
 
LETTER IV.] THE "SCREW pine:' 
 
 4> 
 
 the situation of the tree. There is one variety I saw to-day, 
 the " screw pine," which is really dangerous if one approaches 
 it unguardedly. It is a whorled pandanus, with long, sword- 
 shaped leaves, spirally arranged in three rows, and hard, saw- 
 toothed edges, very sharp. When unbranched as I saw them, 
 they resemble at a distance pine-apple plants thirtj' times 
 magniiied. But the mournful looking trees along the coast 
 and all about HUo are mostly the Pandanus odoratissimus, a 
 spreading and branching tree which grows fully twenty-five feet 
 high, supports itself among inaccessible rocks by its prop-like 
 roots, and is one of the first plants to appear on the newly- 
 formed Pacific islands.* Its foliage is singularly dense, 
 although it is borne in tufts of a quantity of long yucca-like 
 leaves on the branches. The shape of the tree is usually 
 circular. The mournful look is caused by the leaves taking a 
 downward and very decided droop in the middle. At present 
 each tuft of leaves has in its centre an object like a green 
 pine-apple. This contains the seeds which are eatable, as is 
 also the fleshy part of the drupes. It is from the seeds of this 
 tree and their coverings that the brillant orange lets, or gar- 
 lands of the natives, are made. The soft white case of the 
 leaves and the terminal buds can also be eaten. The leaves 
 are used for thatching, and their tough longitudinal fibres for 
 mats and robes. There is another kind, the Pandanus vacoa, 
 the same as is used for making sugar bags in Mauritius, but I 
 have not seen it. 
 
 I think the banana comes next in beauty, and I see it in 
 perfection here for the first time, as those in Honolulu grow in 
 " yards," and are tattered by the winds. It transports me into 
 the tropics in feeling, as I am already in them in fact, and 
 satisfies all my cravings for something which shall represent and 
 epitomize their luxuriance, as well as for simplicity and grace 
 in vegetable form. And here it is everywhere with its shining 
 shade, its smooth, fat, green stem, its crown of great curling 
 leaves from four to ten feet long, and its heavy cluster of a 
 whorl of green or golden fruit, with a pendant, purple cone of 
 undeveloped blossom below. It is of the tropics, tropical j a 
 
 * I have since learned that it is the same as the Kaldera bush of 
 Southern India, and that the powerful fragrance of its flowers is the .subject 
 of continual allusions in Sanskrit poetry under the name of Ketaka, and that 
 oil impregnated with its odour is highly prized as a perfume in India. The 
 Hawaiians also used it to give a delicious scent to the Tapa made for their 
 chiefs from the inner bark of the paper mulberry. 
 
42 ffA WAIT. [letter iv. 
 
 thing of beauty, gladness, and sunshine. It is indigenous 
 here, and wild, but never bears seeds, and is propagated solely 
 by suckers, which spring up when the parent plant has fruited, 
 or by cuttings. It bears seed, strange to say, only (so far as is 
 known) in the Andaman Islands, where, stranger still, it 
 springs up as a second growth wherever the forests are cleared. 
 Go to the palm-house, find the Musa sapientum, magnify it ten 
 times, glorify it immeasurably, and you will have a laggard 
 idea of the banana groves of Hilo. 
 
 The ground is carpeted with a grass of pretematurally vivid 
 green and rankness of growth, mixed with a handsome fern, 
 with a caudex a foot high, the Sadleria cyathoides, and another 
 of exquisite beauty, the Microlepia tenuifolia, which are said to 
 be the commonest ferns on Hawaii. 
 
 Hilo is a lively place for such a mere village; so many 
 natives are stirring about, and dashing along the narrow roads 
 on horseback. This is a large airy house, simple and tasteful, 
 with pretty engravings and water-colour drawings on the walls. 
 There is a large bath-house in the garden, into which a pure, 
 cool stream has been led, and the gurgle and music of many 
 such streams fill the sweet, soft air. There is a saying among 
 sailors, " Follow a Pacific shower, and it leads you to Hilo." 
 Indeed there is a rainfall of from thirteen to sixteen feet 
 annually. These deep verandahs are very pleasant, for they 
 render window-blinds unnecessary; so there is nothing of that 
 dark stuffiness which makes indoor life a trial in the closed, 
 shadeless Australian houses. 
 
 Miss Karpe, my travelling companion, is a lady of great 
 energy, and an adept in the art of travelling. Undismayed by 
 three days of sea-sickness, and the prospect of the tremendous 
 journey to the volcano to-morrow, she extemporised a ride to 
 the Anuenue Falls on the Wailuku this afternoon, and I weakly 
 accompanied her, a burly policeman being our guide. The 
 track is only a scramble among rocks and holes, concealed by 
 grass and ferns, and we had to cross a stream, full of great 
 holes, several times. The Fall itself is very pretty, no feet in 
 one descent, with a cavernous shrine behind the water, filled 
 with ferns. There were large ferns all round the Fall, and a 
 jungle of luxuriant tropical shrubs of many kinds. 
 
 Three miles above this Fall there are the Pei-pei Falls, very 
 interesting geologically. The Wailuku River is the boundary 
 between the two great volcanoes, and its waters, it is supposed 
 by learned men, have often flowed over heated beds of basalt, 
 
LETTER IV.] POT-HOLES ON THE WAILUKU. 43 
 
 with the result of columnar formation radiating from the bottom 
 of the stream. This structure is sometimes beautifully exhibited 
 in the form of Gothic archways, through which the torrent 
 pours into a basin, surrounded by curved, broken, and half-sunk 
 prisms, black and prominent amidst the white foam of the 
 Falls. In several places the river has just pierced the beds of 
 lava, and in one passes under a thick rock bridge, several 
 hundred feet wide. 
 
 Near the Anuenue Fall we stopped at a native house, outside 
 which a woman, in a rose-coloured chemise, was stringing roses 
 for a necklace, while her husband pounded the kalo root on a 
 board. His only clothing was the malo, a narrow strip of cloth 
 wound round the loins, and passed between the legs. This was 
 the only covering worn by men before the introduction of 
 Christianity. Females wore the fau, a short petticoat made of 
 tapa, which reached from the waist to the knees. To our eyes, 
 the brown skin produces nearly the effect of clothing. 
 
 Everything was new and interesting, but the ride was spoiled 
 by my insecure seat in my saddle, and the increased pain in my 
 spine which riding produced. In crossing one stream the horses ' 
 have to make a downward jump from a rock, and I slipped 
 round my horse's neck. Indeed on the way back I felt that on 
 the ground of health I must give up the volcano, as I would 
 never consent to be carried to it, like Lady Franklin, in a litter. 
 When we returned, Mr. Severance suggested that it would be 
 much better for me to foUow the Hawaiian fashion, and ride 
 astride, and put his saddle on the horse. It was only my strong 
 desire to see the volcano which made me consent to a mode of 
 riding against which I have so strong a prejudice, but the result 
 of the experiment is that I shall visit Kilauea thus or not at all. 
 The native women all ride astride, on ordinary occasions in full 
 sacks, or holokus, and on gala days in the fau, the gay, winged 
 dress which I described in writing from Honolulu. A great 
 many of the foreign ladies on Hawaii have adopted the 
 Mexican saddle also, for greater security to themselves and 
 ease to their horses, on the steep and perilous bridle-tracks, but 
 they wear full Turkish trousers and jauntily-made dresses 
 reaching to the ankles. 
 
 It appears that Hilo is free from the universally admitted 
 nuisance of morning calls. The hours are simple — eight o'clock 
 breakfasts, one o'clock dinners, six o'clock suppers. If people 
 want anything with you, they come at any hour of the day, but 
 if they only wish to be sociable, the early evening is the recog- 
 
44 HA WAIL [LETTER IV. 
 
 nized time for " calling." After supper, when the day's work is 
 done, people take their lanterns and visit each other, either in 
 the verandahs or in the cheerful parlours which open upon them. 
 There are no door-bells, or solemn announcements by servants 
 of visitors' names, or " not-at-homes." If people are in their 
 parlours, it is presumed that they receive their friends. Several 
 pleasant people came in this evening. They seem to take 
 great interest in two ladies going to the volcano without an 
 escort, but no news has been received from it lately, and I fear 
 that it is not very active, as no glare is visible to-night. Mr. 
 Thompson, the pastor of the small foreign congregation here, 
 called on me. He is a very agreeable, accomplished man, and 
 is acquainted with Dr. Holland and several of my New England 
 friends. He kindly brought his wife's riding-costume for my 
 trip to Kilauea. The Rev. Titus Coan, one of the earliest and 
 most successful missionaries to Hawaii, also called. He is a 
 tall, majestic-looking man, physically well fitted for the extra- 
 ordinary exertions he has undergone in mission work, and 
 intellectually also, I should think, for his face expresses great 
 mental strength, and nothing of the weakness of an enthusiast. 
 He has admitted about 12,000 persons into the Christian 
 Church. He is the greatest authority on volcanoes on the 
 islands, and his enthusiastic manner and illuminated counte- 
 nance as he spoke of Kilauea, have raised my expectations to 
 the highest pitch. We are prepared for to-morrow, having 
 engaged a native named Upa, who boasts a httle English, as 
 our guide. He provides three horses and himself for three days 
 for the sum of thirty dollars. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER V. 
 
 Our Equipment for the Volcano— Riding " cavaKer fashion "— C^a— The 
 Volcano Road— Light in the Darkness — The Crater of Kilauea— The 
 House of Pele — The Crater House. ' 
 
 Volcano of Kilauea, Jan. ^ist 
 Bruised aching bones, strained muscles, and overwhelming 
 fatigue, render it hardly possible for me to undergo the physical 
 labour of writing, but in spirit I am so elated with success, and 
 so thrilled by new sensations, that though I cannot communi- 
 cate the incommunicable, I want to write to you while the 
 impression of Kilauea is fresh, and by "the Ught that never 
 was on sea or shore." 
 
 By eight yesterday morning our preparations were finished, 
 and Miss Karpe, whose conversance with the details of travel- 
 ling I envy, mounted her horse on her own side-saddle, dressed 
 in a short grey waterproof, and a broad-brimmed Leghorn hat 
 tied so tightly over her ears with a green veil as to give it the 
 look of a double spout. The only pack her horse carried was 
 a bundle of cloaks and shawls, slung together with an umbrella 
 on the horn of her saddle. Upa, who was most picturesquely 
 got up in the native style with garlands of flowers round his hat 
 and throat, carried our saddle-bags on the peak of his saddle, 
 a bag with bananas, bread, and a bottle of tea on the horn, 
 and a canteen of water round his waist. I had on my coarse 
 Australian hat which serves the double purpose of sunshade and 
 umbrella, Mrs. Thompson's riding costume, my great rusty New 
 Zealand boots, and my blanket strapped behind a very gaily 
 ornamented, brass-bossed, demi-pique Mexican saddle, which 
 one of the missionary's daughters has lent me. It has a horn 
 in front, a low peak behind, large wooden stirrups with leathern 
 flaps the length of the stirrup-leathers, to prevent the dress from 
 coming in contact with the horse, and strong guards of hide 
 which hang over and below the stirrup, and cover it and the 
 foot up to the ankles, to prevent the feet or boots from being 
 torn in riding through the bush. Each horse had four fathoms 
 of tethering rope wound several times round his neck. In such 
 fashion must all travelling be done on Hawaii, whether by 
 ladies or gentlemen. 
 
46 HA WAIL [letter v. 
 
 Upa supplied the picturesque element, we the grotesque. 
 The morning was moist and unpropitious looking. As the 
 greater part of the thirty miles has to be travelled at a foot's- 
 pace, the guide took advantage of the soft grassy track which 
 leads out of Hilo, to go off at full gallop, a proceeding which 
 made me at once conscious of the demerits of my novel way of 
 riding. To guide the horse and to clutch the horn of the 
 saddle with both hands were clearly incompatible, 30 I aban- 
 doned the first as being the least important. Then my feet 
 either slipped too far into the stirrups and were cut, or they 
 were jerked out ; every corner was a new terror, for at each I 
 was nearly pitched off on one side, and when at last Upa 
 stopped, and my beast stopped without consulting my wishes, 
 only a desperate grasp of mane and tethering rope saved me 
 from going over his head. At this ridiculous moment we came 
 upon a bevy of brown maidens swimming in a lakelet by the 
 roadside, who increased my confusion by a chorus of laughter. 
 How fervently I hoped that the track would never admit of 
 galloping again ! 
 
 Hilo fringes off with pretty native houses, kalo patches and 
 mullet ponds, and in about four miles the track, then formed of 
 rough, hard lava, and not more than 24 inches wide, enters a 
 forest of the densest description, a burst of true tropical jungle. 
 I could not have imagined anything so perfectly beautiful, 
 nature seemed to riot in the production of wonderful forms, as 
 if the moist, hot-house air encouraged her in lavish excesses. 
 Such endless variety, such depths of green, such an impassable 
 and altogether inextricable maze of forest trees, ferns, and lianas ! 
 There were palms, breadfruit trees, ohias, eugenias, candle-nuts 
 of immense size, Koa (acacia) bananas, ttoni, bamboos, papayas, 
 (Carica papaya) guavas, ti trees (Cordyline terminalis), tree- 
 ferns, climbing ferns, parasitic ferns, and ferns themselves the 
 prey of parasites of their own species. The lianas were there 
 in profusion climbing over the highest trees, and entangling 
 them, with stems varying in size from those as thick as a man's 
 arm to those as slender as whipcord, binding all in an impass- 
 able network, and hanging over our heads in rich festoons or 
 tendrils swaying in the breeze. There were trailers, i.e., (Frey- 
 cinetia scandens) with heavy knotted stems, as thick as a 
 frigate's stoutest hawser, coiling up to the tops of tall ohias \il\h. 
 tufted leaves like yuccas, and crimson spikes of gaudy blossom. 
 The shining festoons of the yam and the graceful trailers of the 
 matle (Alyxia Olivaeformis), a sweet-scented vine, from which 
 
LETTER v.] A TROPICAL FOREST. 
 
 47 
 
 the natives make garlands, and glossy leaved climbers hung 
 from tree to tree, and to brighten all, great morning glories of 
 a heavenly blue opened a thousand blossoms to the sun, and 
 gave a tenderer loveliness to the forest. Here trees grow and 
 fall, and nature covers them where they lie with a new vegeta- 
 tion which altogether obliterates their hasty decay. It is four 
 miles of beautiful and inextricable confusion, untrodden by 
 human feet except on the narrow track. " Of every tree in this 
 garden thou mayest freely eat," and no serpent or noxious thing 
 trails its hideous form through this Eden. 
 
 _ It was quite intoxicating, so new, wonderful, and solemn 
 withal, that I was sorry when we emerged from its shady depths 
 upon a grove of cocoanut trees and the glare of day. Two very 
 poor-looking grass huts, with a ragged patch of sugar-cane beside 
 them, gave us an excuse for half an hour's rest. An old woman 
 in a red sack, much tattooed, with thick, short, grey hair brist- 
 ling on her head, sat on a palm root, holding a nude brown 
 child j a lean, hideous old man, dressed only in a malo, leaned 
 against its stem, our horses with their highly miscellaneous gear 
 were tethered to a fern stump, and Upa, the most picturesque 
 of the party, served out tea. He and the natives talked inces- 
 santly, and from the frequency with which the words " wahine 
 haole" (foreign woman) occurred, the subject of their conversa- 
 tion was obvious. Upa has taken up the notion from something 
 
 Mr. S said, that I am a "high chief," and related to 
 
 Queen Victoria, and he was doubtlessly imposing this fable on 
 the people. In spite of their poverty and squalor, if squalor 
 be a term which can be applied to aught beneath these 
 sunny skies, there was a kindliness about them which they 
 made us feel, and the aloha with which they parted from us 
 had a sweet, friendly sound. 
 
 From this grove we travelled as before in single file over an 
 immense expanse of lava of the kind called pahoehoe, or satin 
 rock, to distinguish it from the a-a, or jagged, rugged, impass- 
 able rock. Savans all use these terms in the absence of any 
 equally expressive in English. The pahoehoe extends in the 
 Hilo direction from hence about twenty-three miles. It is .the 
 cooled and arrested torrent of lava which in past ages has 
 flowed towards Hilo from Kilauea. It lies in hummocks, in 
 coils, in rippled waves, in rivers, in huge convolutions, in pools 
 smooth and still, and in caverns which are really bubbles. 
 Hundreds of square miles of the island are made up of this 
 and nothing more. A Ytry frequent aspect oi pahoehoe is the 
 
48 HA WAIT. [LETTER V. 
 
 likeness on a magnificent scale of a thick coat of cream drawn 
 in wrinkling folds to the side of a milk-pan. This lava is all 
 grey, and the greater part of its surface is slightly rough- 
 ened. Wherever this is not the case the horses slip upon it 
 as upon ice. 
 
 Here I began to realize the universally igneous origin of 
 Hawaii, as I had not done among the finely disintegrated lava 
 of Hilo. From the hard black rocks which border the sea, 
 to the loftiest mountain dome or peak, every stone, atom of 
 dust, and foot of fruitful or barren soil bears the Plutonic 
 mark. In fact, the island has been raised heap on heap, ridge 
 on ridge, mountain on mountain, to nearly the height of Mont 
 Blanc, by the same volcanic forces which are still in operation 
 here, and may still add at intervals to the height of the blue 
 dome of Mauna Loa, of which we caught occasional glimpses 
 above the clouds. Hawaii is actually at the present time being 
 built up from the ocean, and this great sea of ;pahoehoe is not 
 to be regarded as a vindictive eruption, bringing desolation on 
 a fertile region, but as an architectural and formative process. 
 
 There is no water, except a few deposits of rain-water in 
 holes, but the moist air and incessant showers have aided 
 nature to mantle this frightful expanse with an abundant vege- 
 tation, principally ferns of an exquisite green, the most con- 
 spicuous being the Sadleria, the Gleichenia Hawaiiensis, a run- 
 ning wire-hke fern, and the exquisite Microlepia tenuifolia, 
 dwarf guava, with its white flowers resembling orange flowers 
 in odour, and ohelos (Vaccinium reticulatum), with their red 
 and white berries, and a profusion of small-leaved ohias (Me- 
 trosideros polymorpha), with their deep crimson, tasselled 
 flowers, and their young shoots of bright crimson, relieved the 
 monotony of green. These crimson tassels deftly strung on 
 thread or fibres, are much used by the natives for their leis, or 
 garlands. The ti tree (Cordyline terminalis) which abounds 
 also on the lava, is most valuable. They cook their food 
 wrapped up in its leaves, the porous root when baked, has the 
 taste and texture of molasses candy, and when distilled yields 
 a spirit, and the leaves form wrappings for fish, hard poi, and 
 other edibles. Occasionally a clump of tufted coco-palms, or 
 of the beautiful candle-nut rose among the smaller growths. 
 To our left a fringe of palms marked the place where the lava 
 and the ocean met, while, on our right, we were seldom out of 
 sight of the dense timber belt, with its fringe of tree-ferns and 
 bananas, which girdles Mauna Loa. 
 
LETTER v.] THE HALF-WAY HOUSE. 
 
 49 
 
 The track, on the whole, is a perpetual upward scramble ; 
 for, though the ascent' is so gradual, that it is only by the in- 
 creasing coolness of the atmosphere that the increasing eleva- 
 tion is denoted, it is really nearly 4000 feet in thirty miles. 
 Only strong, sure-footed, well-shod horses can undertake this 
 journey, for it is a constant scramble over rocks, going up or 
 down natural steps, or cautiously treading along ledges. Most 
 of the track is quite legible owing to the vegetation having 
 been worn off the lava, but the rock itself hardly shows the 
 slightest abrasion. 
 
 Upa had indicated that we were to stop for rest at the 
 " Half "Way House ; " and, as I was hardly able to sit on my 
 horse owing to fatigue, I consoled myself by visions of a com- 
 fortable sofa and a cup of tea. It was with real dismay that I 
 found the reality to consist of a grass hut, much out of repair, 
 and which, bad as it was, was locked. Upa said we had ridden 
 so slowly that it would be dark before we reached the volcano, 
 and only allowed us to rest on the grass for half^an-hour. He 
 had frequently reiterated " Half Way house, you wear spur ; " 
 and, on our remounting, he buckled on my foot a heavy, rusty 
 Mexican spur, with jingling ornaments, and rowels an inch and 
 a half long. These horses are so accustomed to be jogged 
 with these instruments that they won't move without them. 
 The prospect of five hours' more riding looked rather black, 
 for I was much exhausted, and my shoulders and knee-joints- 
 were in severe pain. Miss K.'s horse showed no other appre- 
 ciation of a stick with which she belaboured him than flourishes- 
 of his tail, so, for a time, he was put in the middle, that Upa 
 might add his more forcible persuasions, and I rode first, and 
 succeeded in getting my lazy animal into the priestly amble 
 known at home as " a butter and eggs trot," the favourite tra- 
 velling pace, but this not suiting the guide's notion of progress, 
 he frequently rushed up behind with a torrent of Hawaiian, 
 emphasized by heavy thumps on my horse's back, which so- 
 sorely jeopardised my seat on the animal, owing to his resent- 
 ing the interference by kicking, that I " dropped astern " for 
 the rest of the way, leaving Upa to belabour Miss K.'s steed 
 for his diversion. 
 
 The country altered but little, only the variety of trees gave 
 place to the o/im alone, with its sombre foliage. There were 
 neither birds nor insects, and the only travellers ^we encoun- 
 tered in the solitude compelled us to give them a* wide berth, 
 for they were a drove of half wild, random cattle, led by a lean 
 
so HA WAIT. [LETTER V. 
 
 bull of hideous aspect, with crumpled horns. Two picturesque 
 native vaccheros on mules accompanied them, and my flagging 
 spirits were raised by their news that the volcano was quite 
 active. The owner of these cattle knows that he has ro,ooo 
 head, and may have a great many more. They are shot for 
 their hides by men who make shooting and skinning them a 
 profession, and, near settlements, the owners are thankful to 
 get two cents a pound for sirloin and rump-steaks. These, 
 and great herds which are actually wild and ownerless upon 
 the mountains, are a degenerate breed, with some of the worst 
 peculiarities of the Texas cattle, and are the descendants of 
 those which Vancouver placed on the islands and which 
 were under Tabu for ten years. They destroy the old trees by 
 gnawing the bark, and render the growth of young ones im- 
 possible. 
 
 As it was getting dark we passed through a forest strip, 
 where tree-ferns from twelve to eighteen feet in height, and with 
 fronds from five to seven feet long, were the most attractive 
 novelties. As we emerged, " with one stride came the dark," 
 a great darkness, a cloudy night, with neither moon nor stars, 
 and the track was further obscured by a belt of ohias. There 
 were five miles of this, and I was so dead from fatigue and 
 want of food, that I would willingly have lain down in the bush 
 in the rain. I most heartlessly wished that Miss K. were tired 
 too, for her voice, which seemed tireless as she rode ahead in 
 the dark, rasped upon my ears. I could only keep on my 
 saddle by leaning on the horn, and my clothes were soaked 
 with the heavy rain. " A dreadful ride," one and another had 
 said, and I then believed them. It seemed an awful solitude 
 full of mystery. Often, I only knew that my companions were 
 ahead by the sparks struck from their horse's shoes. 
 
 It became a darkness which could be felt. 
 
 " Is that possibly a pool of blood ? " I thought in horror, as 
 a rain puddle glowed crimson on the track. Not that indeed ! 
 A glare brighter and redder than that from any furnace sud- 
 denly lightened the whole sky, and from that moment bright- 
 ened our path. There sat Miss K. under her dripping um- 
 brella, as provokingly erect as when she left Hilo. There Upa 
 jogged along, huddled up in his poncho, and his canteen shone 
 red. There the ohia trees were relieved blackly against the 
 sky. The scene started out from the darkness with the sud- 
 denness of a revelation. We felt the pungency of sulphurous 
 fumes in the still night air. A sound as of the sea broke on 
 
LETTER v.] THE CRATER OF KILAVEA. 51 
 
 our ears, rising and falling as if breaking on the shore, but the 
 ocean was thirty mUes away. The heavens became redder and 
 brighter, and when we reached the crater-house at eight, clouds 
 of red vapour mixed with flame were curling ceaselessly out of 
 a vast, invisible pit of blackness, and Kilauea was in all its 
 fiery glory. We had reached the largest active volcano in the 
 world, the " place of everlasting burnings." 
 
 Rarely was light more welcome than that which twinkled 
 from under the verandah of the lonely crater-house into the 
 rainy night. The hospitable landlord of this unique dwelling 
 lifted me from my horse, and carried me into a pleasant room 
 thoroughly warmed by a large wood fire, and I hastily retired 
 to bed to spend much of the bitterly cold night in watching 
 the fiery vapours rolling up out of the infinite darkness, and in 
 dreading the descent into the crater. The heavy clouds were 
 crimson with the reflection, and soon after midnight jets of 
 flame of a most peculiar colour leapt fitfully into the air, ac- 
 companied by a dull, throbbing sound. 
 
 This morning was wet and murky as many mornings are 
 here, and the view from the door was a blank up to ten o'clock, 
 when the mist rolled away and revealed the mystery of last 
 night, the mighty crater whose vast terminal wall is only a few 
 yards from this house. We think of a volcano as a cone. 
 This is a different thing. The abyss, which really is at a height of 
 nearly 4000 feet on the flank of Mauna Loa, has the appearance 
 of a great pit on a rolling plain. But such a pit ! It is nine miles 
 in circumference, and its lowest area, which not long ago fell 
 about 300 feet, just as ice on a pond falls when the water below 
 it is withdrawn, covers six square miles. The depth of the crater 
 varies from 800 to iioo feet in different years, according as 
 the molten sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of volcanic 
 activity are present more or less throughout its whole depth, 
 and for some distance round its margin, in the form of steam 
 cracks, jets of sulphurous vapour, blowing cones, accumulating 
 deposits of acicular crystals of sulphur, &c., and the pit itself 
 is constantly rent and shaken by earthquakes. Grand erup- 
 tions occur at inten'als with circumstances of indescribable 
 terror and dignity, but Kilauea does not limit its activity to 
 these outbursts, but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena 
 through all known time in a lake or lakes in the southern part 
 of the crater, three miles from this side. 
 
 This lake, the Hale-mau-mau, or House of Everlasting Fire 
 of the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess 
 
52 HA WAIT. [letter v. 
 
 Pele, is approachable with safety except during an eruption. 
 The spectacle, however, varies almost daily, and at times the 
 level of the lava in the pit within a pit is so low, and the suf- 
 focating gases are evolved in such enormous quantities, that 
 travellers are unable to see anything. There had been no 
 news from it for a week, and as nothing was to be seen but a 
 very faint bluish vapour hanging round its margin, the prospect 
 was not encouraging. 
 
 When I have learned more about the Hawaiian volcanoes, I 
 shall tell you more of their phenomena, but to-night I shall 
 only write to you my first impressions of what we actually saw 
 on this January 31st. My highest expectations have been in- 
 finitely exceeded, and I can hardly write soberly after such a 
 spectacle, especially while through the open door I see the 
 fiery clouds of vapour from the pit rolling up into a sky, glow- 
 ing as if itself on fire. 
 
 We were accompanied into the crater by a comical native 
 guide, who mimicked us constantly, our Hilo guide, who 
 " makes up " a little English, a native woman from Kona, who 
 speaks imperfect English poetically, and her brother who 
 speaks none. I was conscious that we foreign women with our 
 stout staffs and grotesque dress looked like caricatures, and the 
 natives, who have a keen sense of the ludicrous, did not con- 
 ceal that they thought us so. 
 
 The first descent down the terminal wall of the crater is very 
 precipitous, but it and the slope which extends to the second 
 descent are thickly covered with ohias, ohelos (a species of 
 whortleberry), sadlerias, polypodiums, silver grass, and a great 
 variety of bulbous plants, many of which bore clusters of 
 berries of a brilliant turquoise blue. The " beyond " looked 
 terrible. I could not help clinging to these vestiges of the 
 kindlier mood of nature in which she sought to cover the 
 horrors she had wrought. The next descent is over rough 
 blocks and ridges of broken lava, and appears to form part of 
 a break which extends irregularly round the whole crater, and 
 which probably marks a tremendous subsidence of its floor. 
 Here the last apparent vegetation was left behind, and the 
 familiar earth. We were in a new region of blackness and awful 
 desolation, the accustomed sights and sounds of nature ail 
 gone. Terraces, cliffs, lakes, ridges, rivers, mountain sides, 
 whirlpools, chasms of lava surrounded us, solid, black, and 
 shining, as if vitrified, or an ashen grey, stained yellow with 
 sulphur here and there, or white with alum. The lava was 
 
LETTER v.] THE CRATER OF KILAUEA. 53 
 
 fissured and upheaved everywhere by earthquakes, hot under- 
 neath, and emitthig a hot breath. 
 
 After more than an hour of very difficult dimbing we reached 
 the lowest level of the crater, pretty nearly a mile across, pre- 
 senting from above the appearance of a sea at rest, but on 
 crossing it we found it to be an expanse of waves and con- 
 volutions of ashy-coloured lava, with great cracks filled up with 
 black, iridescent, rolls of lava, only a few weeks old. Parts of 
 it are very rough and ridgy, jammed together like field ice, or 
 compacted by rolls of lava which may have swelled up from 
 beneath, but the largest part of the area presents the appear- 
 ance of huge coiled hawsers, the ropy formation of the lava 
 rendering the illusion almost perfect. These are riven by deep 
 cracks which emit hot, sulphurous vapours. Strange to say, in 
 one of these, deep down in that black and awful region, 
 three slender metamorphosed ferns were growing, exquisite 
 forms, the fragile heralds of the great forest of vegetation, 
 which probably in- coming years will clothe this pit with beauty. 
 On our right there was a precipitous ledge, and a recent flow 
 of lava had poured over it, cooling as it fell into columnar 
 shapes as symmetrical as those of Staffa. It took us a full 
 hour to cross this deep depression, and as long to master a 
 steep, hot ascent of about 400 feet, formed by a recent lava- 
 flow from Hale-mau-mau into the basin. This lava hill is an 
 extraordinary sight — a flood of molten stone, solidifying as it 
 ran down the declivity, forming arrested waves, streams, eddies, 
 gigantic convolutions, forms of snakes, stems of trees, gnarled 
 roots, crooked water-pipes, all -involved and contorted on a 
 gigantic scale, a wilderness of force and dread. Over one 
 steeper place the lava had run in a fiery cascade about 100 feet 
 wide. Some had reached the ground, some had been arrested 
 midway, but all had taken the aspect of stems of trees. In 
 some of the crevices I picked up a quantity of very curious 
 filamentose lava, known as " Pole's hair." It resembles coarse 
 spun glass, and is of a greenish or yellowish-brown colour. In 
 many places the whole surface of the lava is covered with this 
 substance seen through a glazed medium. During eruptions, 
 when fire-fountains play to a great height, and drops of lava 
 are thrown in all directions, the wind spins them out in clear 
 green or yellow threads two or three feet long, which catch 
 and adhere to projecting points. 
 
 As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as 
 well as more porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower 
 
54 ffA WAIT. [letter v. 
 
 of rain hissed as it fell upon it. The crust became in- 
 creasingly insecure, and necessitated our walking in single file 
 with the guide in front, to test the security of the footing. I 
 fell through several times, and always into holes full of 
 sulphurous steam, so malignantly acid that ray strong, dog-skin 
 gloves were burned through as I raised myself on my hands. 
 
 We had followed a lava-flow for thirty miles up to the crater's 
 brink, and now we had toiled over recent lava -for three hours, 
 and by all calculation were close to the pit, yet there was no 
 smoke or sign of fire, and I felt sure that the volcano had died 
 out for once for our especial disappointment. Indeed, I had 
 been making up my mind for disappointment since we left the 
 crater-house, in consequence of reading seven different ac- 
 counts, in which language was exhausted in describing 
 Kilauea. 
 
 Suddenly, just above, and hi front of us, gory drops were 
 tossed in air, and springing forwards we stood on the brink of 
 Hale-mau-mau, which was about 35 feet below us. I think we 
 all screamed, I know we all wept, but we were speechless, for 
 a new glory and terror had been added to the earth. It is the 
 most unutterable of wonderful things. The words of common 
 speech are quite useless. It is unimaginable, indescribable, a 
 sight to remember for ever, a sight which at once took posses- 
 sion of every faculty of sense and soul, removing one altogether 
 out of the range of ordinary life. Here was the real " bottom- 
 less pit" — the "fire which is not quenched" — "the place of 
 hell "■ — •" the lake which burneth with fire and brimstone " — the 
 " everlasting burnings " — the fiery sea whose waves are never 
 weary. There were groanings, rumblings, and detonations, 
 rushings, hissings, and splashings, and the crashing sound of 
 breakers on the coast, but it was the surging of fiery waves 
 upon a fiery shore. But what can I write ! Such words as 
 jets, fountains, waves, spray, convey some idea of order and 
 regularity, but here there was none. The inner lake, while we 
 stood there, formed a sort of crater within itself, the whole lava 
 sea rose about three feet, a blowing cone about eight feet high 
 was formed, it was never the same two minutes together. And 
 what we saw had no existence a month ago, and probabjy 
 will be changed in every essential feature a month hence. 
 
 What we did see was one irregularly-shaped lake, possibly 
 500 feet wide at its narrowest part, and nearly half a mile at 
 its broadest, almost divided into two by a low bank of lava, 
 which extended nearly across it where it was narrowest, and 
 
LETTER V.J GLORIES OF HALE-MAU-MAU. 55 
 
 which was raised visibly before our eyes. The sides of the 
 nearest part of the lake were absolutely perpendicular, but 
 nowhere more than 40 feet high ; though on the far side of 
 the larger lake they were bold and craggy, and probably not 
 less than 150 feet high. On one side there was an expanse 
 entirely occupied with blowing cones, and jets of steam or 
 vapour. The lake has been known to sink 400 feet, and a 
 month ago it overflowed its banks. The prominent object 
 was fire in motion, but the surface of the double lake was con- 
 tinually skinning over for a second or two with a cooled crust 
 of a lustrous grey-white, like frosted silver, broken by jagged 
 cracks of a bright rose-colour. The movement was nearly 
 always from the sides to the centre, but the movement of the 
 centre itself appeared independent and always took a southerly 
 direction. Before each outburst of agitation there was much 
 hissing, and a throbbing, internal roaring, as of imprisoned 
 gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power on 
 earth could bind it, then playful and sportive, then for a second 
 languid, but only because it was accumulating fresh force. On 
 our arrival eleven fire fountains were playing joyously round 
 the lakes, and sometimes the six of the nearer lake ran together 
 in the centre to go wallowing down in one vortex, from which 
 they reappeared bulging upwards, till they formed a huge cone 
 30 feet high, which plunged downwards in a whirlpool only to 
 reappear in exactly the previous number of fountains in different 
 parts of the lake, high leaping, raging, flinging themselves up- 
 wards. Sometimes the whole lake, abandoning its usual cen- 
 tripetal motion, as if impelled southwards, took the form of 
 mighty waves, and surging heavily against the partial barrier, 
 with a sound like the Pacific surf, lashed, tore, covered it, and 
 threw itself over it in clots of living fire. It was all confusion, 
 commotion, force, terror, glory, majesty, mystery, and even 
 beauty. And the colour ! Molten metal has not that crimson 
 gleam, nor blood that living light ! Had I not seen this I 
 should never have known that such a colour was possible. 
 
 The crust perpetually wrinkled, folded over, and cracked, 
 and great pieces were drawn downwards to be again thrown 
 up on the crests of waves. The eleven fountains of gory fire 
 played the greater part of the time, dancing round the lake 
 with a strength of joyousness which was absolute beauty. 
 Indeed after the first half hour of terror had gone by, the beauty 
 of these jets made a profound impression upon me, and the 
 sight of them must always remain one of the most fascinating 
 
56 HAWAII. [LETTER V. 
 
 recollections of my life. During three hours, the bank of lava 
 which almost divided the lakes rose considerably, owing to the 
 cooling of the spray as it dashed over it, and a cavern of con- 
 siderable size was formed within it, the roof of which was hung 
 with fiery stalactites, more than a foot long. Nearly the whole 
 time the surges of the farther lake taking a southerly direction 
 broke with a tremendous noise on the bold, craggy cliffs which 
 are its southern boundary, throwing their gory spray to a height 
 •of fully forty feet. At times an overhanging crag fell in, creating 
 a vast splash of fire and increased commotion. 
 
 Almost close below us there was an intermittent jet of lava, 
 which kept cooling round what was possibly a blowhole, forming 
 a cone with an open top, which when we first saw it was about 
 six feet high on its highest side, and about as many in diameter. 
 Up this cone or chimney heavy jets of lava were thrown every 
 second or two, and cooling as they fell over its edge, raised it 
 rapidly before our eyes. Its fiery interior, and the singular 
 sound with which the lava was vomited up, were very awful. 
 There was no smoke rising from the lake, only a faint blue 
 vapour which the wind carried in the opposite direction. The 
 heat was excessive. We were obliged to stand the whole time, 
 and the soles of our boots were burned, and my ear and one 
 side of my face were blistered. Although there was no smoke 
 from the lake itself, there was an awful region to the westward, 
 of smoke, sound, and rolling clouds of steam and vapour whose 
 phenomena it was not safe to investigate, where the blowing 
 cones are, whose fires last night appeared stationary. We were 
 able to stand quite near the margin, and look down into tlie 
 lake, as you look into the sea from the deck of a ship, the only 
 risk being that the fractured ledge might give way. 
 
 Before we came away, a new impulse seized the lava. The 
 fire was thrown to a great height ; the fountains and jets all 
 wallowed together; new ones appeared, and danced joyously 
 round the margin, then converging towards the centre they 
 merged into one glowing mass, which upheaved itself pyra- 
 midally and disappeared with a mighty plunge. Then innu- 
 merable billows of fire dashed themselves into the air, crashing 
 and lashing, and the lake dividing itself recoiled on either side, 
 then hurling its fires together and rising as if by upheaval 
 from below, it surged over the temporary rim which it had 
 formed, passing downwards in a slow majestic flow, leaving the 
 central surface swaying and dashing in fruitless agony as if sent 
 on some errand it failed to accomplish. 
 
LETTER v.] THE CRATER-HOUSE. 57 
 
 Farewell, I fear for ever, to the glorious Hale-mau-mau, the 
 grandest type of force that the earth holds ! " Break, break, 
 break," on through the coming years, 
 
 " No more by thee my steps shaE be. 
 No more again for ever ! " 
 
 It seemed a dull trudge over the black and awful crater, and 
 strange, like half-forgotten sights of a world with which I had 
 ceased to have aught to do, were the dwarf tree-ferns, the lilies 
 with their turquoise clusters, the crimson myrtle blossoms, and 
 all the fair things which decked the precipice up which we 
 slowly dragged our stiff and painful limbs. Yet it was but the 
 exchange of a world of sublimity for a world of beauty, the 
 "place of hell," for the bright upper earth, with its endless 
 summer, and its perennial foliage, blossom, and fruitage. 
 
 Since writing the above I have been looking over the 
 " Volcano Book," which contains the observations and impres- 
 sions of people from all parts of the world. Some of these are 
 painstaking and valuable as showing the extent and rapidity of 
 the changes which take place in the crater, but there is an 
 immense quantity of flippant rubbish, and would-be wit, in 
 which "Madam Peld," invariably occurs, this goddess, who 
 was undoubtedly one of the grandest of heathen mythical 
 creations, being caricatured in pencil and pen and ink, under 
 every ludicrous aspect that can be conceived. Some of the 
 entries are brief and absurd, " Not much of a fizz," " a grand 
 splutter," " Madam Pel^ m the dumps," and so forth. These 
 generally have English signatures. The American wit is far 
 racier, but depends mainly on the profane use of certain 
 passages of scripture, a species of wit which is at once easy and 
 disgusting. People are all particular in giving the precise 
 tiihe of the departure from Hilo and arrival here, "making 
 good time " being a thing much admired on Hawaii, but few can 
 boast of more than three miles an hour. It is wonderful that 
 people can parade their snobbishness within sight of Hale- 
 mau-mau. 
 
 This inn is a unique and interesting place. Its existence is 
 strikingly precarious, for the whole region is in a state of per- 
 petual throb from earthquakes, and the sights and squnds are 
 gruesome and awful both by day and night. The surrounding 
 country steams and smokes from cracks and pits, and a smell 
 of sulphur fills the air. They cook their kalo in a steam appa- 
 
58 HA WAIL [letter v. 
 
 ratus of nature's own work just behind the house, and every 
 drop of water is from a distillery similarly provided. The inn 
 is a grass and bamboo house, very beautifully constructed 
 without nails. It is a longish building with a steep roof, 
 divided inside by partitions which run up to the height of the 
 walls. There is no ceiling. The joists which run across are 
 concealed by wreaths of evergreens, from among which peep 
 out here and there stars on a blue ground. The door opens 
 from the verandah into a centre room with a large, open, brick 
 fire place, in which a wood fire is constantly burning, for at 
 this altitude the temperature is cool. Some chairs, two 
 lounges, small tables, and some books and pictures on the 
 walls give a look of comfort, and there is the reality of comfort 
 in perfection. Our sleeping-place, a neat room with a matted 
 floor opens from this, and on the other side there is a similar 
 room, and a small eating-room with a grass cookhouse beyond, 
 from which an obliging old Chinaman who persistently calls us 
 " sir," brings our food. We have had for each meal, tea, pre- 
 served milk, coffee, kalo, biscuits, butter, potatoes, goats' flesh, 
 and ohelos. The charge is five dollars a day, but everything 
 except the potatoes and ohelos has to be brought twenty or 
 thirty miles on mules' backs. It is a very pretty, picturesque 
 house both within and without, and stands on a natural lawn 
 of brilliant but unpalatable grass surrounded by a light fence 
 covered with a small, trailing, double rose. It is altogether a 
 most magical building in the heart of a formidable volcanic 
 wilderness. Mr. Oilman, our host, is a fine picturesque-looking 
 man, half-Indian, and speaks remarkably good English, but his 
 wife, a very pretty native woman, speaks none, and he attends 
 to us entirely himself. 
 
 A party of native travellers rainbound are here, and the 
 native women are sitting on the floor stringing flowers and 
 berries for Ids. One very attractive-looking young woman, 
 refined by consumption, is lying on some blankets, and three 
 native men are smoking by the fire. Upa attempts conversa- 
 tion with us in broken English, and the others laugh and talk 
 incessantly. My inkstand, pen, and small handwriting amuse 
 them very much. Miss K., the typical American travelling lady, 
 who is encountered everywhere from the Andes to the Pyramids, 
 tireless, with indomitable energy. Spartan endurance, and a 
 genius for attaining everything, and myself, a limp, ragged, 
 shoeless wretch, complete the group, and our heaps of saddles, 
 blankets, spurs, and gear tell of real travelling, past and future. 
 
lETTERV.] AN IRRESPONSIBLE VAPOUR BATH. 59 
 
 It is a most picturesque sight by the light of the flickering fire, 
 and the fire which is unquenchable bums without. 
 
 About 300 yards off there is a sulphur steam vapour-bath, 
 highly recommended by the host as a panacea for the woeful 
 aches, pains, and stiffness produced by the six mile scramble 
 through the crater, and I groaned and limped down to it : but 
 it is a most spasmodic arrangement, singularly independent of 
 human control, and I have not the slightest doubt that the 
 reason why Mr. Oilman obligingly remained in the vicinity 
 was, lest I should be scalded or blown to atoms by a sudden 
 freak of Kilauea, though I don't see that he was capable of pre- 
 venting either catastrophe ! A slight grass shed has been built 
 over a sulphur steam crack, and within this there is a deep box 
 with a sliding lid and a hole for the throat, and the victim is 
 supposed to sit in this and be steamed. But on this occasion 
 the temperature was so high, that my hand, which I unwisely 
 experimented upon, was immediately scalded. In order not to 
 wound Mr. Oilman's feelings, which are evidently sensitive on 
 the subject of this irresponsible contrivance, I remained the 
 prescribed time within the shed, and then managed to limp a 
 little less, and go with him to what are called the Sulphur 
 Banks, on which sulphurous vapour is perpetually depositing 
 the most exquisite acicular sulphur crystals; these, as they 
 aggregate, take entrancing forms, like the featherwork pro- 
 duced by the " frost-fall " in Colorado, but, like it, they perish 
 with a touch, and can only be seen in the wonderful laboratory 
 where they are formed. 
 
 In addition to the natives before mentioned, there is an old 
 man here who has been a bullock-hunter on Hawaii for forty 
 years, and knows the island thoroughly. In common with all 
 the residents I have seen, he takes an intense interest in 
 volcanic phenomena, and has just been giving us a thrilling 
 account of the great eruption in 1868, when beautiful Hilo was 
 threatened with destruction. Three weeks ago, he says, a pro- 
 found hush fell on Kilauea, and the summit crater of Mauna 
 Loa became active, and amidst throbbings, rumblings, and 
 earthquakes, broke into such magnificence that the light was 
 visible 100 miles at sea, a burning mountain 13,750 feet high ! 
 The fires after two days died out as suddenly, and from here 
 we can see the great dome-like top, snow-capped under the 
 stars, serene in an eternal winter. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER VI. 
 
 " Too much chief eat up people " — Lomi-Lomi Volcanic Possibilities. 
 
 HiLO, Hawaii, Feb. 3. 
 
 My plans are quite overturned. I was to have ridden with 
 the native mail-carrier to the north of the island to take the 
 steamer for Honolulu, but there are freshets in the gulches on 
 the road, making the ride unsafe. There is no steamer from 
 Hilo for three weeks, and in the meantime Mr. and Mrs. S. 
 have kindly consented to receive me as a boarder ; and I find 
 the people, scenery, and life so charming, that I only regret 
 my detention on Mrs. Dexter's account I am already rested 
 from the great volcano trip. 
 
 We left Kilauea at seven in the morning of the ist Feb. in a 
 pouring rain. The natives decorated us with leis of turquoise 
 and coral berries, and of crimson and yellow ohia blossoms. 
 The saddles were wet, the crater was blotted out by mist, water 
 dripped from the trees, we splashed through pools in the rocks, 
 the horses plunged into mud up to their knees, and the drip, 
 drip, of vertical, earnest, tepid, tropical rain accompanied us 
 nearly to Hilo. Upa and Miss K. held umbrellas the whole 
 way, but I required both hands for holding on to the horse 
 whenever he chose to gallop. As soon as we left the crater- 
 house Upa started over the grass at full speed, my horse of 
 course followed, and my feet being jerked out of the stirrups, 
 I found myself ignominiously sitting on the animal's back 
 behind the saddle, and nearly slid over his tail, before, by 
 skilful efforts, I managed to scramble over the peak back again, 
 when I held on by horn and mane until the others stopped ! 
 Happily I was last, and I don't think they saw me. Upa 
 amused_ me very much on the way ; he insists that I am " a 
 high chief." He said a good deal about Queen Victoria, whose 
 virtues seem well known here : " Good Queen make good 
 people," he said, "English very good!" He asked me how 
 many chiefs we had, and supposing him to mean hereditary 
 peers, I replied, over 500. "Too many, too many!" he 
 
LETTER vi.l LOMI-LOMI. 6l 
 
 answered emphatically — " too much chief eat up people ! " He 
 asked me if all people were good in England, and I was sorry 
 to tell him that this was very far from being the case. He was 
 incredulous, or seemed so out of flattery, and said, "You good 
 Queen, you Bible long time, you good ! " I was surprised to 
 find how much he knew of European politics, of, the liberation 
 of Italy, and the Franco-German war. He expressed a most 
 orthodox horror of the Pope, who, he said, he knew from his 
 Bible was the " Beast ! " He said, " I bring band and serenade 
 for good Queen sake," but this has not come off yet. 
 
 We straggled into Hilo just at dusk, thoroughly wet, jaded, 
 and satisfied, but half-starved, for the rain had converted that 
 which should have been our lunch into a brownish pulp of 
 bread and newspaper, and we had subsisted only on some half- 
 ripe guavas. After the black desolation of Kilauea, I realized 
 more fully the beauty of Hilo, as it appeared in the gloaming. 
 The rain had ceased, cool breezes rustled through the palm- 
 groves and sighed through the funereal foliage of the pandanus. 
 Under thick canopies of the glossy breadfruit and banana, 
 groups of natives were twining garlands of roses and ohia 
 blossoms. The lights of happy foreign homes flashed from 
 under verandahs festooned with passion-flowers, and the low 
 chant, to me nearly intolerable, but which the natives love, 
 mingled with the ceaseless moaning of the surf and the sighing 
 of the breeze through the trees, and a heavy fragrance, unlike 
 the faint, sweet odours of the north, filled the evening air. It 
 was delicious. 
 
 I suffered intensely from pain and stiffness, and was induced 
 to try a true Hawaiian remedy, which is not only regarded as 
 a cure for all physical ills, but as the greatest of physical 
 luxuries ; i. e. lomi-lomi. This is a compound of pinching, 
 pounding, and squeezing, and Moi Moi, the fine old Hawaiian 
 nurse in this family, is an adept in the art. She found out by 
 instinct which were the most painful muscles, and subjected 
 them to a doubly severe pounding, laughing heartily at my 
 groans. However, I must admit that my arms and shoulders 
 were almost altogether relieved before the lomi-lomi ^2j=, finished. 
 The first act of courtesy to a stranger in a native house is this, 
 and it is varied in many ways. Now and then the patient 
 lies face downwards, and children execute a sort of dance 
 upon his spine.* Formerly, the chiefs, when not engaged in 
 
 * "ReefRovings." 
 
62 HA WAIL [letter vi. 
 
 active pursuits, exacted lomi-lomi as a constant service from 
 their followers. 
 
 A number of Hilo folk came in during the evening to inquire 
 how we had sped, and for news of the volcano. I think the 
 proximity of Kilauea gives sublimity to Hilo, and helps to lift 
 conversation out of common-place ruts. It is no far-off spec- 
 tacle, but an immediate source of wonder and apprehension, 
 for it rocks the village with earthquakes, and renders the con- 
 struction of stone houses and plastered ceilings impossible. 
 It rolls vast tidal waves with infinite destruction on the coast, 
 and of late years its fiery overflowings have twice threatened 
 this paradise with annihilation. Then there is the dead volcano 
 of Mauna Loa, from whose resurrection anything may be feared. 
 Even last night a false rumour that a light was to be seen on 
 its summit brought everyone out, but it was only an increased 
 glare from the pit of Hale-mau-mau. It is most interesting to 
 be in a region of such splendid possibilities. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER VII. 
 
 Hilo Homes — Hilo Gossip —Foreign Life — The National Dish — Pelikia 
 Aloha — Surf-board Riding. 
 
 Hilo, Hawaii. 
 
 The white population here, which constitutes " society," is 
 very small. There are two venerable missionaries, " Father 
 Coan " and " Father Lyman," the former pastor of a large 
 native congregation, which, though much shrunk, is not only 
 self-sustaining, but contributes $1200 a year to foreign missions, 
 and the latter, though very old and frail, the indefatigable head 
 of an industrial school for native young men. Their houses 
 combine the trimness of New England, with the luxuriance of 
 the tropics ; they are cool retreats, embowered among bread- 
 fruit, tamarind, and bamboo, through whose graceful leafage 
 the blue waters of the bay are visible. Innumerable exotics 
 are domesticated round these fair homesteads. Two of " Father 
 Lyman's " sons are influential residents, one being the Lieu- 
 tenant-Governor of the island. Other sons of former missionaries 
 are settled here in business, and there are a few strangers who 
 have been attracted hither. Dr. Wetmore, formerly of the 
 missioit, is a tj^ical New Englander of the old orthodox 
 school. It is pleasant to see him brighten into almost youthful 
 enthusiasm on the subject of Hawaiian ferns. My host, a 
 genial, social, intelligent American, is sheriff of Hawaii, post- 
 master, &c., and with his charming wife (a missionary's 
 daughter), and some friends who live with them, make their 
 large house a centre of kindliness, friendliness, and hospitality. 
 
 There are hardly any young ladies, and very few young men, 
 but plenty of rosy, blooming children, who run about barefoot 
 all the year. Besides the Hilo residents, there are some 
 planters' families within seven miles, who come in to sewing 
 circles, church, &c. There is a small class of reprobate white 
 men who have ostracised themselves by means of drink and 
 bad morals, and are a curse to the natives. The half whites, 
 among whom " Bill Ragsdale " is the leading spirit, are not 
 numerous. Hilo has no carriage roads and no carriages : every 
 
64 HA WAIT. [letter vir. 
 
 one must ride, or travel in a litter. People are very kind to 
 each other. Horses, dresses, patterns, books, and articles of 
 domestic use, are lent and borrowed continually. The small- 
 ness of the society and the close proximity are too much like 
 a ship. People know everything about the details of each 
 other's daily life, income, and expenditure, and the. day's doings 
 of each member of the little circle are matters for conversation. 
 Indeed, were it not for the volcano and its doings, conversation 
 might degenerate into mere gossip. There is an immense deal 
 of personal talk; the wonder is that there is not more ill-nature. 
 Not only is what everybody does in Hilo common property, 
 but the sayings, doings, goings, comings, and purchases of every 
 one in all the other islands are common property also, made so 
 by letters and oral communication. It is all very amusing, 
 but not always kindly, and human interests are always 
 interesting; but it has its perilous side. The foreigners are 
 very kind to each other. There is no distress which is not 
 alleviated. There is no nurse, and in cases of sickness the 
 ladies take it by turns to wait on the sufferer by day and night 
 for weeks, and even months. Such inevitable mutual depend- 
 ence of course promotes friendliness. 
 
 The foreigners live very simply. The eating-rooms are used 
 solely for eating, the "parlours " are always cheerful and tasteful, 
 and the bedrooms very pretty, adorned with all manner of 
 knick-knacks made by the ladies, who are indescribably deft 
 with their fingers. Light Manilla matting is used instead of 
 carpets. A Chinese man-cook, who leaves at seven in the 
 evening, is the only servant, except in one or two cases, where, 
 as here, a native woman condescends to come in during the 
 day as a nurse. In the morning, the ladies in their fresh pretty 
 wrappers and ruffled white aprons, sweep and dust the rooms, 
 and I never saw women look more truly graceful and refined 
 than they do, when engaged in the plain prose of these domestic 
 duties. They make all their own dresses, and when any lady 
 is busy and wants a dress in a hurry, two or three of them m.eet 
 and make it for her. I never saw people live such easy, 
 pleasant lives. They have such good health, for one thing, 
 partly no doubt because their domestic duties give them whole- 
 some exercise without pressing upon them. They have abound- 
 ing leisure for reading, music, choir practising, drawing, fern- 
 printing, fancy work, picnics, riding parties, and enjoy sociability 
 thoroughly. They usually ride in dainty bloomer costumes 
 even when they don't ride astride. All the houses are pretty, 
 
I,ETTER vii.] HILO HOMES. 65 
 
 and it takes little to make them so in this climate. One novel 
 fashion is to decorate the walls with festoons of the beautiful 
 Microlepia tenuifolia, which are renewed as soon as they fade, 
 and every room is adorned with a profusion of bouquets, which 
 are easily obtained where flowers bloom all the year. Many 
 of the residents possess valuable libraries, and these, with 
 cabinets of minerals, volcanic specimens, shells, and coral, with 
 weapons, calabashes, ornaments, and cloth of native manu- 
 facture, almost furnish a room in themselves. Some of the 
 volcanic specimens and the coral are of almost inestimable 
 value, as well as of exquisite beauty. 
 
 The gentlemen don't seem to have near so much occupation 
 as the ladies. There are two stores on the beach, and at these 
 and at the Court-house they congregate, for lack of club-house 
 and exchange. Business is not here a synonym for hurry, and 
 official duties are light ; so light, that in these morning hours 
 I see the governor, sheriff, and judge, with three other gentle- 
 men, playing an interminable croquet game on the Court- 
 house lawn. They purvey gossip for the ladies, and how 
 much they invent, and how much they only circulate, can never 
 be known ! 
 
 There is a large native population in the village, along the 
 beach, and on the heights above the Wailuku River. Frame 
 houses with lattices, and grass houses with deep verandahs, 
 peep out everywhere from among the mangoes and bananas. 
 The governess of Hawaii, the Princess Keelikolani, has a house 
 on the beach shaded by a large umbrella-tree and a magnificent 
 clump of bamboos, 70 feet in height. The native life with 
 which one comes constantly in contact, is very interesting. 
 
 The men do whatever hard work is done in cultivating the 
 kalo patches and pounding the kah. This kalo, the Arum 
 esculentum, forms the national diet. A Hawaiian could not 
 exist without his calabash oipoi. The root is an object of the 
 tenderest soHcitude, from the day it is planted until the hour- 
 when it is lovingly eaten. The eating oipoi seems a ceremony 
 of profound meaning ; it is like the eating salt with an Arab, 
 or a Masonic sign. The kalo root is an ovate oblong, as bulky 
 as a Californian beet, and it has large leaves, shaped like a 
 broad arrow, of a singularly bright green. The best kinds- 
 grow entirely in water. The patch is embanked and frequently- 
 inundated, and each plant grows on a small hillock of puddled 
 earth. The cutting from which it grows is simply the top of 
 the plant, with a little of the tuber. The men stand up to 
 
66 HA WAIL (.LETTER vn. 
 
 their knees in water while cultivating the root. It is excellent 
 when boiled and sliced ; but the preparation of poi is an ela- 
 borate process. The roots are baked in an underground oven, 
 and are then laid on a slightly hollowed board, and beaten with 
 a stone pestle. It is hard work, and the men don't wear any 
 clothes while engaged in it. It is not a pleasant-looking 
 operation. They often dip their hands in a calabash of water 
 to aid them in removing the sticky mass, and they always look 
 hot and tired. When it is removed from the board into large 
 calabashes, it is reduced to paste by the addition of water, and 
 set aside for two or three days to ferment. When ready for 
 use it is either lilac or pink, and tastes like sour bookbinders' 
 paste. Before water is added, when it is in its dry state, it is 
 called paiai, or hard food, and is then packed in U leaves in 
 20 lb. bundles for inland carriage, and is exported to the 
 Guano Islands. It is a prolific and nutritious plant. It is 
 estimated that forty square feet will support a Hawaiian for 
 a year. 
 
 The melon and kalo patches represent a certain amount of 
 spasmodic industry, but in most other things the natives take 
 no thought for the morrow. Why should they indeed ? For 
 while they lie basking in the sun, without care of theirs, the 
 cocoanut, the breadfruit, the yam, the guava, the banana, and 
 the delicious papaya, which is a compound of a ripe apricot 
 with a Cantaloupe melon, grow and ripen perpetually. Men 
 and women are always amusing themselves, the men with surf- 
 bathing, the women with making Ms — both sexes with riding, 
 gossiping, and singing. Every man and woman, almost • every 
 child, has a horse. There is a perfect plague of badly bred, 
 badly developed, weedy looking animals. The beach and the 
 pleasant lawn above it are always covered with men and women 
 riding at a gallop, with bare feet, and stirrups tucked between 
 the toes. To walk even 200 yards seems considered a degra- 
 dation. The people meet outside each others' houses all day 
 long, and sit in picturesque groups on their mats, singing, 
 laughing, talking, and quizzing the Aaoles, as if the primal curse 
 had never fallen. Pleasant sights of out-door cooking gregari- 
 ously carried on greet one everywhere. This style of cooking 
 prevails all over Polynesia. A hole in the ground is lined with 
 .stones, wood is burned within it, and when the rude oven has 
 ib£en sufficiently heated, the pig, chicken, breadfruit, or ka/o, 
 ■wrapped in ti leaves, is put in, a little water is thrown on, and 
 the wkok is covered up. It is a slow but sure process. 
 
ZETTER VII.] HILO GOSSIP. 67 
 
 Bright dresses, bright eyes, bright sunshine, music, dancing, 
 a life without care, and a climate mthout asperities, make up 
 the sunny side of native life as pictured at Hilo. But there are 
 dark moral shadows ; the population is shrinking away, and 
 rumours of leprosy are afloat, so that some of these fair homes 
 may be desolate ere long. However many causes for regret 
 exist ; one must not forget that only forty years ago the people 
 inhabiting this strip of land between the volcanic wilderness 
 and the sea were a vicious, sensual, shameless herd, that no 
 man among them, except their chiefs, had any rights, that they 
 were harried and oppressed almost to death, and had no 
 consciousness of any moral obligations. Now, order and ex- 
 ternal decorum at least prevail. There is not a locked door 
 in HUo, and nobody makes anybody else afraid. 
 
 The people of Hawaii-nei are clothed and civilized in their 
 habits; they have equal rights; 6,500 of them have kukanas 
 or freeholds, equable and enlightened laws are impartially 
 administered; wrong and oppression are unknown; they enjoy 
 one of the best administered governments in the world ; educa- 
 tion is universal, and the throne is occupied by a liberal 
 sovereign of their own race and election. 
 
 Few of them speak English. Their language is so easy that 
 most of the foreigners acquire it readily. You know how 
 stupid I am about languages, yet I have already picked up the 
 names of most common things. There are only twelve letters, 
 but some of these are made to do double duty, as K is also T, 
 and L is also R. The most northern island of the group, 
 Kauai, is as often pronounced as if it began with a T, and 
 Kalo is usually Taro. It is a very musical language. Each 
 syllable and word ends with a vowel, and there are none of our 
 rasping and sibillant consonants. In their soft phraseology 
 our rough surnames undergo a metamorphosis, as Fisk into 
 Filikina, Wilson into Wilikina. Each vowel is distinctly pro- 
 noimced, and usually with the Italian sound. The volcano is 
 pronounced as if spelt Keel-ah-wee-ah, and Kauai as if Kah- 
 wye-ee. The name Owhyhee for Hawaii had its origin in a mis- 
 take, for the island was never anything but Hawaii, pronounced 
 Hah-wye-ee, but Captain Cook mistook the prefix O, which is 
 the sign of the nominative case, for a part of the word. Many 
 of the names of places, especially of those compounded with 
 wai, water, are very musical; Wailuku, "water of destruction;" 
 Waialeale, " rippling water ; " Waioli, "singing water;" Waipio, 
 " vanquished water : " Kaiwaihae, " torn water." Mauna, 
 
 F a 
 
68 HA IVAII. [letter vii. 
 
 "mountain," is a mere prefix, and though always used in 
 naming the two giants of the Pacific, Mauna Kea, and Mauna 
 Loa, is hardly ever applied to Hualalai, "the offspring of 
 the shining sun ; " or to Haleakala on Maui, " the house of 
 the sun." 
 
 I notice that the foreigners never use the English or botanical 
 names of trees or plants, but speak of ohtas, ohelos, kukui (candle- 
 nut), lauhala (pandanus), pilu (tree fern), mamane, koa, &c. 
 There is one native word in such universal use that I already 
 find I cannot get on without it, pittkia. It means anything, 
 from a downright trouble to a slight difficulty or entanglement. 
 "I'm in a. ptlikia" or " very pilikia," ox"piHkia!" A revo- 
 lution would be "z.pilikia." The fact of the late king dying 
 without naming a successor was pre-eminently a pilikia, and it 
 would be a serious /z'/z'/^zb: if a horse were to lose a shoe on the 
 way to Kilauea. Hou-hou, meaning " in a huff," I hear on all 
 sides ; and two words, makai, signifying " on the sea-side," and 
 inauka, " on the mountain side." These terms are perfectly 
 intelligible out of doors, but it is puzzling when one is asked 
 to sit on " the mauka side of the table." The word aloha, in 
 foreign use, has taken the place of every English equivalent. 
 It is a greeting, a farewell, thanks, love, goodwill. Aloha looks 
 at you from tidies and illuminations, it meets you on the roads 
 and at house-doors, it is conveyed to you in letters, the air is 
 full of it. " My aloha to you," " he sends you his aloha" " they 
 desire their aloha." It already represents to me all of kindness 
 and goodwill that language can express, and the convenience 
 of it as compared with other phrases is, that it means exactly 
 what the receiver understands it to mean, and consequently, 
 in all cases can be conveyed by a third person. There is no 
 word for "thank you." Maikai, "good," is often useful in its 
 place, and smiles supply the rest. There are no words which 
 express "gratitude" or "chastity," or some others of the 
 virtues ; and they have no word for " weather," that which we 
 understand by " weather " being absolutely unknown. 
 
 Natives have no surnames. Our volcano guide is Upa, or 
 Scissors, but his wife and children are anything else. The late 
 king was Kamehameha, or the " lonely one." The father of 
 the present king is called Kanaina, but the king's name is 
 Lunalilo, or " above all." Nor does it appear that a man is 
 always known by the same name, nor that a name necessarily 
 indicates the sex of its possessor. Thus, in signing a paper 
 the signature would be Hoapih kanaka, or Hoapili wahine. 
 
LETTETi vii.] SURF-BOARD RIDING. 69 
 
 according as the signer was man or woman. I remember that 
 in my first letter I fell into the vulgarism, initiated by the 
 whaling crews, of calling the natives Kanakas. This is univer 
 sally but very absurdly done, as Kanaka simply means man. 
 If a Hawaiian word is absolutely necessary, we might translate 
 native and have niaole, pronounced maori, like that of the New 
 Zealand aborigines. Kanaka is to me decidedly objectionable, 
 as conveying the idea of canaille. 
 
 I had written thus far when Mr. Severance came in to say 
 that a grand display of the national sport of surf-bathing was 
 going on, and a large party of us went down to the beach for 
 two hours to enjoy it. It is really a most exciting pastime, and 
 in a rough sea requires immense nerve. The surf-board is a 
 tough plank shaped like a, coffin lid, about two fset broad, and 
 from six to nine feet long, well oiled and cared for. It is 
 usually made of the erythrina, or the breadfruit tree. The surf 
 was very heavy and favourable, and legions of natives were 
 swimming and splashing in the sea, though not more than forty 
 had their Papa-he-nalu, or " wave sliding boards," with them. 
 The men, dressed only in malos, carrying their boards under 
 their arms, waded out from some rocks on which the sea was 
 breaking, and, pushing their boards before them, swam out 
 to the first line of breakers, and then diving down were seen 
 no more till they re-appeared as a number of black heads 
 bobbing about like corks in smooth water half a mile from shore. 
 
 What they seek is a very high roller, on the top of which 
 they leap from behind, lying face downwards on their boards. 
 As the wave speeds on, and the bottom strikes the ground, the 
 top breaks into a huge comber. The swimmers appeared posing 
 themselves on its highest edge by dexterous movements of their 
 hands and feet, keeping just at the top of the curl, but always 
 apparently coming down hill with a slanting motion. So they 
 rode in majestically, always just ahead of the breaker, carried 
 shorewards by its mighty impulse at the rate of forty miles an 
 hour, yet seeming to have a volition of their own, as the more 
 daring riders knelt and even stood on their surf-boards, wavmg 
 their arms and uttering exultant cries. They were always 
 apparently on the verge of engulfment by the fierce breaker 
 whose towering white crest was ever above and just behind 
 them, but when one expected to see them dashed to pieces, 
 they either waded quietly ashore, or sHding off their boards, 
 dived under the surf, Uking advantage of the undertow, and 
 were next seen far out at sea preparing for fresh exploits. 
 
70 HA WATT. [letter vii. 
 
 The great art seems to be to mount the roller precisely at 
 the right time, and to keep exactly on its curl just before it 
 breaks. Two or three athletes, who stood erect on their boards 
 as they swept exultingly shorewards, were received with ringing 
 cheers by the crowd. Many of the less expert failed to throw 
 themselves on the crest, and slid back into smooth water, or 
 were caught in the combers, which were fully ten feet high, and 
 ' after being rolled over and over, ignominiously disappeared 
 amidst roars of laughter, and shouts from the shore. At first 
 I held my breath in terror, thinking the creatures were smothered 
 or dashed to pieces, and then in a few seconds I saw the dark 
 heads of the objects of my anxiety bobbing about behind the 
 rollers waiting for another chance. The shore was thronged 
 with spectators, and the presence of the Hiie of Hilo stimulated 
 the swimmers to wonderful exploits. 
 
 These people are truly amphibious. Both sexes seem to 
 swim by nature, and the children riot in the waves from their 
 infancy. They dive apparently by a mere effort of the will. 
 In the deep basin of the Wailuku River, a little below the 
 Falls, the maidens swim, float, and dive with garlands of flowers 
 round their heads and throats. The more furious and agitated 
 the water is, the greater the excitement, and the love of these 
 watery exploits is not confined to the young. I saw great fat 
 men with their hair streaked with grey, balancing themselves 
 on their narrow surf-boards, and riding the surges shorewards 
 with as much enjoyment as if they were in their first youth. I 
 enjoyed the afternoon thoroughly. 
 
 Is it " always afternoon " here, I wonder ? The sea was so 
 blue, the smilight so soft, the air so sweet. There was no toil, 
 clang, or hurry. People were all hoUday-making (if that can 
 be where there is no work), and enjoying themselves, the surf- 
 bathers in the sea, and hundreds of gaily-dressed men and 
 women galloping on the beach. It was serene and tropical. 
 I sympathize with those who eat the lotus, and remain for ever 
 on such enchanted shores. 
 
 I am gaining health daily, and almost live in the open air. 
 I have hired the native policeman's horse and saddle, and with 
 a Macgregor flannel riding costume, which my kind friends 
 have made for me, and a pair of jingling Mexican spurs, am 
 quite Hawaiianised. I ride alone once or twice a day ex- 
 ploring the neighbourhood, finding some new fern or flower 
 daily, and abandon myself wholly to the fascination of this new 
 existence. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER VIII. 
 
 Windward Hawaii— " Gulches " — The Mexican Saddle— Onomea — A 
 Sugar Plantation — Sugar making — The ruling interest. 
 
 Onomea, Hawaii. 
 
 Judge Austin's. 
 
 Mrs. a. has been ill for some time, and Mrs. S. her sister, 
 and another friend " plotted " in a very " clandestine " manner 
 that I should come here for a few days in order to give her " a 
 little change of society," but I am quite sure that under this 
 they only veil a kind wish that I should see something of 
 plantation life. There is a plan, too, that I should take a five 
 days' trip to a remarkable valley called Waipio, but this is only 
 a " castle in the air." 
 
 Mr. A. sent in for me a capital little lean rat of a horse which 
 by dint of spirit and activity managed to keep within sight of 
 two large horses, ridden by Mr. Thompson, and a very hand- 
 some young lady riding " cavalier fashion," who convoyed me 
 out. Borrowed saddle-bags, and a couple of shingles for carry- 
 ing ferns formed my outfit, and were carried behind my saddle. 
 It is a magnificent ride here. The track crosses the deep, still, 
 Wailuku River on a wooden bridge, and then, after winding up 
 a steep hill, among native houses fantastically situated, hangs 
 on the verge of the lofty precipices which descend perpen- 
 dicularly to the sea, dips into tremendous gulches, loses itself 
 in the bright fern-fringed torrents which have cleft their way 
 down from the mountains, and at last emerges on the delicious 
 height on which this house is built. 
 
 This coast looked beautiful from the deck of the Kilauea, 
 but I am now convinced that I have never seen anything so 
 perfectly lovely as it is when one is actually among its details. 
 Onomea is 600 feet high, and every yard of the ascent from 
 Hilo brings one into a fresher and purer air. One looks up 
 the wooded, broken slopes to a wild volcanic wilderness and 
 
y2 HA WAIT. [letter viii. 
 
 the snowy peaks of Mauna Kea on one side, and on the other 
 down upon the calm, blue Pacific, v/rinkled by the sweet 
 trade-wind, till it blends in far-off loveliness with the still, blue 
 sky ; and heavy surges break on the reefs, and fritter them- 
 selves away on the rocks, tossing their pure foam over ti and 
 lauhala trees, and exquisite ferns and trailers mantle the cUffs 
 down to the water's edge. Here a native house stands, with 
 passion-flowers clustering round its verandah, and the great, 
 sohtary, red blossoms of the hibiscus flame out from dark 
 surrounding leafage, and women in rose and green holokus, 
 weaving garlands, greet us with " Aloha " as we pass. Then 
 we come upon a whole cluster of grass houses under lauhalas 
 and bananas. Then there is the sugar-plantation of Kaiwiki, 
 with its patches of bright green cane, its flumes crossing the 
 track above our heads, bringing the cane down from the up- 
 land cane-fields to the crushing-mill, and the shifting, busy 
 scenes of the sugar-boUing season. 
 
 Then the track goes down with a great dip, along which we 
 slip and slide in the mud to a deep broad stream. This is a 
 most picturesque spot, the junction of two bright rivers, and a 
 few native houses and a Chinaman's store are grouped close by 
 under some palms, with the customary loungers on horseback, 
 asking and receiving nuhou, or news, at the doors. Our accus- 
 tomed horses leaped into a ferry-scow provided by Government, 
 worked by a bearded female of hideous aspect, and leaped out 
 on the other side to climb a track cut on the side of a pre- 
 cipice, which would be steep to mount on one's own feet. 
 There we met parties of natives, all flower-wreathed, talking and 
 singing, coming gaily down on their sure-footed horses, saluting 
 us with the invariable "Aloha." Every now and then we 
 passed native churches, with spires painted white, or a native 
 school-house, or a group of scholars all ferns and flowers. The 
 greenness of the vegetation merits the term " dazzhng." We 
 think England green, but its colour is poor and pale as com- 
 pared with that of tropical Hawaii. Palms, candlenuts, ohias, 
 hibiscus, were it not for their exceeding beauty, would almost 
 pall upon one from their abundance, and each gulch has its 
 glorious entanglement of breadfruit, the large-leaved ohia or 
 native apple, a species of Eugenia {Eugenia Malaccmsis), and 
 the pandanus, with its aerial roots, all looped together by large 
 sky-blue convolvuli and the running fern, and is marvellous 
 with parasitic growths. 
 
 The unique beauty of this coast is what is called gulches — 
 
LETTER VIII.] THE MEXICAN- SADDLE. 73 
 
 narrow, deep ravines or gorges, from 100 to 2000 feet in depth, 
 each with a series of cascades from 10 to t8oo feet in height. 
 I dislike reducing their glories to the baldness of figures, but 
 the depth of these clefts (originally, probably, the seams caused 
 by fire torrents), cut and worn by the fierce streams fed by the 
 snows of Mauna Kea, and the rains of the forest belt, cannot 
 otherwise be expressed. The cascades are most truly beautiful, 
 gleaming white among the dark depths of foliage far away, and 
 falling into deep limpid basins, festooned and overhung with 
 the richest and greenest vegetation of this prolific climate, 
 from the huge-leaved banana and shining breadfruit to the 
 most feathery of ferns and lycopodiums. Each gulch opens 
 on a velvet lawn close to the sea, and most of them have space 
 for a few grass houses, with cocoanut trees, bananas and kalo 
 patches. There are sixty-nine of these extraordinary chasms 
 within a distance of thirty miles ! 
 
 I think we came through eleven, fording the streams in all 
 but two. The descent into some of them is quite alarming. 
 You go down almost standing in your stirrups, at a right angle 
 with the horse's head, and up, grasping his mane to prevent 
 the saddle slipping. He goes down like a goat, with his bare 
 feet, looking cautiously at each step, sometimes putting out a 
 foot and withdrawing it again in favour of better footing, and 
 sometimes gathering his four feet under him and sliding or 
 jumping. The Mexican saddle has great advantages on these 
 tracks, which are nothing better than ledges cut on the sides 
 of precipices, for one goes up and down not only in perfect 
 security but without fatigue. I am beginning to hope that I 
 am not too old, as I feared I was, to learn a new mode of 
 riding, for my companions rode at full speed over places where 
 I should have picked my way carefully at a foot-pace ; and 
 my horse followed them, galloping and stopping short at their 
 pleasure, and I successfully kept my seat, though not without 
 occasional fears of an ignominious downfall. I even wish that 
 you could see me in my Rob Roy riding dress, with leather 
 belt and pouch, a lei of the orange seeds of the pandanus round 
 my throat, jingling Mexican spurs, blue saddle blanket, and 
 Rob Roy Ijlanket strapped on behind the saddle ! 
 
 This place is grandly situated 600 feet aboi^e a deep cove, 
 into which two beautiful gulches of great size run, with heavy 
 cascades, finer than Foyers at its best, and a native village is 
 picturesquely situated between the two. The great white 
 rollers, whiter by contrast with the dark deep water, come into 
 
74 HA WAIL [LETTER Vlll. 
 
 the gulch just where we forded the river, and from the ford a 
 passable road made for hauling sugar ascends to the house. 
 The air is something absolutely delicious ; and the murmur of 
 the rollers and the deep boom of the cascades are very soothing. 
 There is little rise or fall in the cadence of the surf anywhere 
 on the windward coast, but one even sound, loud or soft, like 
 that made by a train in a tunnel. 
 
 We were kindly welcomed, and were at once "made at 
 home." DeHcious phrase ! the full meaning of which I am 
 learning in Hawaii, where, though everything has the fascina- 
 tion of novelty, I have ceased to feel myself a stranger. 
 This is a roomy, rambling frame-house, with a verandah, and 
 the door, as is usual here, opens directly into the sitting-room, 
 The stair by which I go to my room suggests possibilities, for it 
 has been removed three inches from the wall by an earth- 
 quake, which also brought down the tall chimney of the boil- 
 ing-house. Close by there are small, pretty frame-houses for the 
 overseer, bookkeeper, sugar boiler, and machinist ; a store, the 
 factory, a pretty native church near the edge of the cliff, and 
 quite a large native village below. It looks green and bright, 
 and the atmosphere is perfect, with the cool air coming down 
 from the mountains, and a soft breeze coming up from the blue 
 dreamy ocean. Behind the house the uplands slope away to 
 the colossal Mauna Kea. The actual, dense, impenetrable 
 forest does not begin for a mile and a half from the coast, and 
 its broad dark belt, extending to a height of 4000 feet, and 
 beautifully broken, throws out into greater brightness the up- 
 ward glades of grass and the fields of sugar-cane. 
 
 This is a very busy season, and as this is a large plantation 
 there is an appearance of great animation. There are five or 
 six saddled horses usually tethered below the house ; and with 
 overseers, white and coloured, natives riding at full gallop, 
 and people coming on all sorts of errands, the hum of the 
 crushing-mill, the rush of water in the flumes, and the grind of 
 the waggons carrying cane, there is no end of stir. 
 
 The plantations in the Hilo district enjoy special advantages, 
 for by turning some of the innumerable mountain streams into 
 flumes the owners can bring a great part of their cane and all 
 their wood for fuel down to the mills without other expense 
 than the original cost of the woodwork. Mr. A. has 100 
 mules, but the greater part of their work is ploughing and 
 hauHng the kegs of sugar down to the cove, where in favourable 
 weather they are put on board a schooner for Honolulu. This 
 
LETTER viii.] A SUGAR PtANTATION. 75 
 
 plantation employs 185 hands, native and Chinese, and turns 
 out 600 tons of sugar a year. The natives are much liked as 
 labourers, being docile and on the whole willing ; but native 
 labour is hard to get, as the natives do not like to work for a 
 term unless obhged, and a pernicious system of "advances" 
 is practised. The labourers hire themselves to the planters, 
 in the case of natives usually for a year, by a contract which 
 has to be signed before a notary public. The wages are about 
 eight dollars a month with food, or eleven dollars without 
 food, and the planters supply houses and medical attendance. 
 The Chinese are imported as coolies, and usually contract to 
 work for five years. As a matter of policy no less than of 
 humanity the " hands " are well treated ; for if a single in- 
 stance of injustice were perpetrated on a plantation the factory 
 might stand still the next year, for hardly a native would 
 contract to serve again. 
 
 The Chinese are quiet and industrious, but smoke opium, 
 and are much addicted to gamijig. Many of them save 
 money, and, when their term of service is over, set up stores, 
 or grow vegetables for money. Each man employed has his 
 horse, and on Saturday the hands form quite a cavalcade. 
 Great tact, firmness, and knowledge of human nature are 
 required in the manager of a plantation. The natives are at 
 times disposed to shirk work without sufficient cause ; the 
 native lunas, or overseers, are not always reasonable, the 
 Chinamen and natives do not always agree, and quarrels and 
 entanglements arise, and everything is referred to the decision 
 of the manager, who, besides all things else, must know the 
 exact amount of work which ought to be performed, both in 
 the fields and factory, and see that it is done. Mr. A. is a 
 keen, shrewd man of business, kind without being weak, and 
 with an eye on every detail of his plantations. The require- 
 ments are endless. It reminds me very much of plantation 
 life in Georgia in the old days of slavery. 1 never elsewhere 
 heard of so many headaches, sore hands, and other trifling 
 ailments. It is very amusing to see the attempts which the 
 would-be invahds make to lengthen their brief, smiling faces 
 into lugubriousness, and the sudden relaxation into naturalness 
 when they are allowed a hoHday, Mr. A. comes into the house 
 constantly to consult his wife regarding the treatment of 
 different ailments. 
 
 I have made a second tour through the factory, and am 
 rather disgusted with sugar making. "All's well that ends 
 
76 HA WATT. [letter viii. 
 
 well," however, and the delicate crystalline result makes one 
 forget the initial stages of the manufacture. The cane, stripped 
 of its leaves, passes from the flumes under the rollers of the 
 crushing-mill, where it is subjected to a pressure of five or six 
 tons. One hundred pounds of cane under this process yield 
 up from sixty-five to seventy-five pounds of juice. This juice 
 passes, as a pale green cataract, into a trough, which conducts 
 it into a vat, where it is dosed with lime to neutralize its acid, 
 and is then run off into heated metal vessels. At this stage 
 the smell is abominable, and the turbid fluid with a thick scum 
 upon it is simply disgusting. After a preliminary heating and 
 skimming it is passed off" into iron pans, several in a row, and 
 boiled and skimmed, and ladled from one to the other till it 
 reaches the last, which is nearest to the fire, and there it boils 
 with the greatest violence, seething and foaming, bringing all 
 the remaining scum to the surface. After the concentration 
 has proceeded far enough, the action of the heat is suspended, 
 and the reddish-brown, oily-looking liquid is drawn into the 
 vacuum-pan till it is about a third full ; the concentration is 
 completed by boiling the juice in vacuo at a temperature of 
 150°, and even lower. As the boiling proceeds, the sugar- 
 boiler tests the contents of the pan by withdrawing a few- 
 drops, and holding them up to the hght on his finger ; and, by 
 certain minute changes in their condition, he judges when it is 
 time to add an additional quantity. When the pan is full, the 
 contents have thickened into the consistency of thick gruel by 
 the formation of minute crystals, and are then allowed to 
 descend into a heater, where they are kept warm till they 
 can be run into " forms " or tanks, where they are allowed to 
 granulate. The liquid, or molasses, which remains after the 
 first crystallization is returned to the vacuum pan and reboiled, 
 and this reboiling of the drainings is repeated two or three 
 times, with a gradually decreasing result in the quality and 
 quantity of the sugar. The last process, which is used to get rid 
 of the treacle, is a most beautiful one. The mass of sugar and 
 treacle is put into what are called " centrifugal pans," which are 
 drums about three feet in diameter and two feet high, which 
 ma,ke about looo revolutions a minute. These have false in- 
 teriors of wire gauze, and the mass is forced violently against 
 their sides by centrifugal action, and they let the treacle whirl 
 through, and retain the sugar crystals, which lie in a dry heap 
 in the centre. 
 
 The cane is being flumed in with great rapidity, and the 
 
LETTER viii.] THE RULING INTEREST. 77 
 
 factory is working till late at night. The cane from which the 
 juice has been expressed, called " trash," is dried and used as 
 fuel for the furnace which supplies the steam power. The sugar 
 is packed in kegs, and a cooper and carpenter, as well as other 
 mechanics, are employed. 
 
 Sugar is now the great interest of the islands. Christian 
 missions and whaling have had their day, and now people talk 
 Gugar. Hawaii thrills to the news of a cent up or a cent down 
 in the American market. All the interests of the kingdom are 
 threatened by this one, which, because it is grievously de- 
 pressed and staggers under a heavy import duty in the 
 American market, is now clamorous in some quarters for 
 "annexation," and in others for a "reciprocity treaty," which 
 last means the cession of the Pearl River lagoon on Oahu, 
 with its adjacent shores, to America, for a Pacific naval station. 
 There are 200,000 acres of productive soil on the islands, of 
 which only a fifteenth is under cultivation, and of this large 
 area 150,000 is said to be specially adapted for sugar culture. 
 Hitherto, sugar growing has been a very disastrous speculation, 
 and few of the planters at present do more than keep their 
 heads above water. 
 
 Were labour plentiful and the duties removed, fortunes 
 might be made, for the soil yields on an average about three 
 times as much as that of the State of Louisiana. Two and a 
 half tons to the acre is a common yield, five tons a frequent 
 one, and instances are known of the slowly matured cane of a 
 high altitude yielding as much as seven tons ! The magni- 
 ficent climate makes it a very easy crop to grow. There is no 
 brief harvest time with its rush, hurry, and frantic demand for 
 labour, nor frost to render necessary the hasty cutting of an 
 immature crop. The same number of hands is kept on all the 
 year round. The planters can plant pretty much when they 
 please, or nor plant at all for two or three years, the only 
 difference in the latter case being that the rattoons which 
 spring up after the cutting of the former crop are smaller in 
 bulk. They can cut when they please, whether the cane be 
 tasselled or not, and they can plant, cut, and grind at one 
 time ! 
 
 It is a beautiful crop in any stage of growth, especially in 
 the tasselled stage. Every part of it is useful — the cane pre- 
 eminently — the leaves as food for horses and mules, and the 
 tassels for making hats. Here and elsewhere there is a plate 
 of cut cane always within reach, and the children chew it in- 
 
78 HA WAIL [letter viii. 
 
 cessantly. I fear you will be tired of sugar, but I find it more 
 interesting than the wool and mutton of Victoria and New 
 Zealand, and it is a most important item of the wealth of this 
 toy kingdom, which last year exported 16,995,402 lbs. of sugar 
 and 192,105 gallons of molasses.* It is really difficult to tear 
 myself from the subject, for I see the cane waving in the sun 
 while I write, and hear the busy hum of the crushing-milL 
 
 I. L. B, 
 
 * In 187s the export of sugar reached a total of 25,080,182 lb&, 
 
LETTER IX. 
 
 Epliy Austin — A Hawaiian Menage — Diet and Dress — Fern-hunting— A 
 Primeval Forest. 
 
 Onomea, Hawaii. 
 
 This is such a pleasant house and household, Mrs. A. is as 
 bright as though she were not an invalid, and her room, except 
 at meals, is the gathering-place of the family. The four boys 
 are bright, intelligent beings, out of doors barefooted, all day, 
 and with a passion for horses, of which their father possesses 
 about thirty. The youngest, Ephy, is the brightest child for 
 three years old that I ever saw, but absolutely crazy about 
 horses and mules. He talks of little else, and is constantly 
 asking me to draw horses on his slate. He is a merry, audacious 
 little creature, but came in this evening quite subdued. The 
 sun was setting gloriously behind the forest-covered slopes, 
 flooding the violet distances with a haze of gold, and, in a low 
 voice, he said, " I've seen God." 
 
 There is the usual Chinese cook, who cooks and waits and 
 looks good-natured, and of course has his own horse, and his 
 wife, a most minute Chinese woman, comes in and attends to 
 the rooms and to Mrs. A., and sews and mends. She wears 
 her native dress — a large, stiff, flat cane hat, like a tray, fastened 
 firmly on or to her head ; a scanty, loose frock of blue denim 
 down to her knees, wide trousers of the same down to her 
 ankles, and slippers. Her hair is knotted up ; she always wears 
 silver armlets, and would not be seen without the hat for any- 
 thing. There is not a bell in this or any house on the islands, 
 and the bother of servants is hardly known, for the Chinamen 
 do their work like automatons, and disappear at sunset. In a 
 land where there are no carpets, no fires, no dust, no hot water 
 needed, no windows to open and shut — for they are always 
 open — no further service is really required. It is a simple 
 arcadian life, and people live more happily than any that I 
 
So ffA WATI. [letter ix. 
 
 have seen elsewhere. It is pleasant to be among people whose 
 faces are not soured by the east wind, or wrinkled by the 
 worrying effort to " keep lip appearances," which deceive no- 
 body ; who have no formal visiting, but real sociability ; who 
 regard the light manual labour of domestic life as a pleasure, 
 not a thing to be ashamed of; who are contented with their 
 circumstances, and have leisure to be kind, cultured, and agree- 
 able ; and who live so tastefully, though simply, that they can 
 at any time ask a passing stranger to occupy the simple guest 
 chamber, or share the simple meal, without any of the soul- 
 harassing preparations which often make the exercise of hos- 
 pitality a thing of terror to people in the same circumstances 
 at home. 
 
 People will ask you, " What is the food ? " We have every- 
 where bread and biscuit made of California flour, griddle 
 cakes with molasse*, cracked wheat, butter, not very good, 
 sweet potatoes, boiled kalo, Irish potatoes, and poi. I have 
 not seen fish on any table except at the Honolulu Hotel, or 
 any meat but beef, which is hard and dry as compared with 
 ours. We have China or Japan tea, and island coffee. Hono- 
 lulu is the only place in which intoxicants are allowed to be 
 sold ; and I have not seen beer, wine, or spirits in any house. 
 Bananas are an important article of diet, and sliced guavas, 
 eaten with milk and sugar, are very good. The cooking is 
 always done in detached cook houses, in and on American 
 cooking-stoves. 
 
 As to clothing. I wear my flannel riding-dress for both riding 
 and walking, and a black silk at other times. The resident 
 ladies wear prints and silks, and the gentlemen black cloth or 
 dark tweed suits. Flannel is not required, neither are pug- 
 garees, or white hats, or sunshades at any season. The changes 
 of temperature are very slight, and there is no chill when the 
 sun goes down. The air is always like balm ; the rain is tepid 
 and does not give cold ; in summer it may be three or four 
 degrees warmer. Windows and doors stand open the whole 
 year. A blanket is agreeable at night, but not absolutely 
 necessary. It is a truly delightful climate and mode of living, 
 with such an abundance of air and sunshine. My health im- 
 proves daily, and I do not consider myself an invalid. 
 
 Between working, reading aloud, talking, riding, and " loafing," 
 I have very little time for letter writing ; but I must tell you of 
 a dehghtful fern-hunting expedition on the margin of the forest 
 that I took yesterday, accompanied by Mr. Thompson and the 
 
LETTER IX.] A FOREST PARADISE. 8j 
 
 two elder boys. We rode in the mauka direction, outside cane 
 ready for cutting, with silvery tassels gleaming in the sun, till 
 we reached the verge of the forest, where an old trail was 
 nearly obliterated by a trailing matted grass four feet high, and 
 thousands of woody ferns, which conceal streams, holes, and 
 pitfalls. When further riding was impossible, we tethered our 
 horses and proceeded on foot. We were then 1,500 feet above 
 the sea by the aneroid barometer, and the increased coolness 
 was perceptible. The mercury is about four degrees lower for 
 each 1,000 feet of ascent — rather more than this indeed on the 
 windward side of the islands. The forest would be quite im- 
 penetrable were it not for the remains of wood-hauling trails,. 
 which, though grown up to the height of my shoulders, are still 
 passable. 
 
 Underneath the green maze, invisible streams, deep down, 
 made sweet music, sweeter even than the gentle murmur of the 
 cool breeze among the trees. The forest on the volcano track, 
 which I thought so tropical and wonderful a short time ago, is. 
 nothing for beauty to compare with this " garden of God." I 
 wish I could describe it, but cannot ; and as you know only 
 our pale, small-leaved trees, with their uniform green, I cannot 
 say that it is like this or that. One might exhaust the whole- 
 vocabulary of wonderment upon it. The former cutting of 
 some trees gives atmosphere, and the tumbled nature of the 
 ground shows everything to the best advantage. There were 
 openings over which huge candle-nuts, with their pea-green 
 and silver foliage, spread their giant arms, and the light played 
 through their branches on an infinite variety of ferns. There 
 were groves of bananas and plantains with shiny leaves 8 feet 
 long, like enormous hart's-tongue, the bright-leaved noni, the 
 dark-leaved koa, the mahogany of the Pacific ; the great glossy- 
 leaved Eugenia — a forest tree as large as our largest elms ; the 
 small-leaved ohia, its rose-crimson flowers making a glory in 
 the forests, and its young shoots of carmine red vying with the 
 colouring of the New England fall ; and the lauhala drooped 
 its formal plumes, which creak in the faintest breeze ; and the 
 superb breadfruit hung its untempting fruit, and spreading guavas. 
 displayed their ripe yellow treasures, and there were trees that 
 had surrendered their own lives to a conquering army of 
 vigorous parasites which had clothed their skeletons with an 
 unapproachable and indistinguishable beauty, and over trees- 
 and parasites the tender tendrils of great mauve morning glories- 
 trailed and wreathed themselves, and the strong, strangling 
 
82 HAWAII. [letter IX. 
 
 stems of the ik wound themselves round the tall ohias, which 
 supported their quaint, yucca-like spikes of leaves fifty feet 
 from the ground. 
 
 There were some superb plants of the glossy, tropical-looking 
 bird's-nest fern, or Aspknium Nidus, which makes its home on 
 the stems and branches of trees, and brightens the forest with 
 its great shining fronds. I got a specimen from a koa tree. 
 The plant had nine fronds, each one measuring from 4 feet 
 
 1 inch to 4 feet 7 inches in length, and from 7 to 9 inches in 
 breadth. There were some very fine tree-ferns {Cibotium 
 Chamissoi ?), two of which being accessible, we measured, and 
 found them 17 and 20 feet high, their fronds 8 feet long, and 
 their stems 4 feet 10 inches in circumference 3 feet from the 
 ground. They showed the most various shades of green, from 
 the dark tint of the mature frond, to the pale pea green of those 
 which were just uncurling themselves. I managed to get up 
 into a tree for the first time in my life to secure specimens of 
 two beautiful parasitic ferns (Polypodium tamariscinUm and P. 
 Hyjnenophylloides ?). I saw for the first time, too, a Lygodium 
 and the large, climbing potato-fern {Polypodium spectrum), very 
 like a yam in, the distance, and the Vittaria elongata, whose 
 long grassy fronds adorn almost every tree. The beautiful 
 Microlepia tenuifolia abounded, and there were a few plants of 
 the loveliest fern I ever saw (TricJvomanes meifoliuni), in speci- 
 mens of which I indulged sparingly, and almost grudgingly, 
 for it seemed unfitting that a form of such perfect beauty should 
 be mummied in a herbarium. There was one fern in profusion, 
 with from go to 130 pair of pinnae on each frond; and the 
 fronds, though often exceeding 5 feet in length, were only 
 
 2 inches broad (Nephrolepis pectinatd). There were many pros- 
 trate trees, which nature has entirely covered with choice ferns, 
 specially the rough stem of the tree-fern. I counted seventeen 
 varieties on one trunk, and on the whole obtained thirty-five 
 specimens for my collection. 
 
 The forest soon became completely impenetrable, the beau- 
 tiful Gleichenia Hawaiiensis forming an impassable network 
 over all the undergrowth. And, indeed, without this it would 
 have been risky to make further explorations, for often masses 
 of matted vegetation sustained us temporarily over streams six 
 or eight feet below, whose musical tinkle alone warned us of 
 our peril. I shall never again see anything so beautiful as this 
 fringe of the impassable timber belt. I enjoyed it more than 
 anything I have yet seen ; it was intoxicating, my eyes were 
 
LETTER IX.] REDUNDANT VEGETATION. 83 
 
 " satisfied with seeing." It was a dream, a rapture, this maze 
 of form and colour, this entangled luxuriance, this bewildering 
 beauty, through which we caught glimpses of a heavenly sky 
 above, while far away, below glade and lawn, shimmered in 
 surpassing loveliness the cool blue of the Pacific. To me, with 
 my hatred of reptiles and insects, it is not the least among the 
 charms of Hawaii, that these glorious entanglements, and cool, 
 damp depths of a redundant vegetation give shelter to nothing 
 of unseemly shape and venomous proboscis or fang. Here, in 
 cool, dreamy, sunny Onomea, there are no horrid, drumming, 
 stabbing, mosquitos as at Honolulu, to remind me of what I 
 forget sometimes, that I am not in Eden. 
 
 I, L. B. 
 
 Note. — ^Throughout these letters the botanical names given are only 
 those which are current on the Islands. Those specimens of ferns which 
 survived the rough • usage which befell them, are to be seen in the Her- 
 barium of the Botanical Garden at Oxford, and have been arranged by my 
 cousin. Professor Lawson. 
 
LETTER X. 
 
 Isolation — A Native School — A Young Savage — " Bola-Bolas "—Noc- 
 turnal Diversions — Native Hospitality — Evening Prayer. 
 
 Waipio Valley, Hawaii. 
 
 There is something fearful in the isolation of this valley, 
 open at one end to the sea, and walled in on all others hypalt's 
 or precipices, from i,ooo to 2,000 feet in height, over the 
 easiest of which hangs the dizzy track, which after traihng over 
 the country for sixty difficult miles, connects Waipio with the 
 little world of Hilo. The evening is very sombre, and darkness 
 comes on early between these high walls. I am in a native house 
 in which not a word of English is spoken, and Deborah, among 
 her own people, has returned with zest to the exclusive use of 
 her own tongue. This is more solitary than solitude, and tired 
 as I am with riding and roughing it, I must console myself 
 with writing to you. The natives, after staring and giggling 
 for some time, took this letter out of my hand, with many ex- 
 clamations, which, Deborah tells me, are at the rapidity and 
 minuteness of my writing. I told them the letter was to my 
 sister, and they asked if I had your picture. They are delighted 
 with it, and it is going round a large circle assembled without. 
 They see very few foreign women here, and are surprised that 
 I have not brought a foreign man with me. 
 
 There was quite a bustle of small preparations before we left 
 Onomea. Deborah was much excited, and I was not less so, 
 for it is such a complete novelty to take a five days' ride alone 
 with natives. D. is a very nice, native girl of seventeen, who 
 speaks English tolerably, having been brought up by Mr. and 
 Mrs. Austin. She was lately married to a white man employed 
 on the plantation. Mr. A. most kindly lent me a favourite 
 mule, but declined to state that she would not kick, or buck, 
 or turn obstinate, or lie down in the water, all which per- 
 formances are characteristic of mules. She has, however, as 
 he expected, behaved as the most righteous of her species. 
 
LEiTER X.] A NATIVE SCHOOL. 85 
 
 Our equipment was a matter for some consideration, as I had 
 no waterproof; but eventually I wore my flannel riding dress, 
 and carried my plaid in front of the saddle. My saddle-bags, 
 which were behind, contained besides our changes of clothes, 
 a jar of Liebig's essence of beef, some potted beef, a tin of 
 butter, a tin of biscuits, a tin of sardines, a small loaf, and 
 some roast yams. Deborah looked very piquante in a bloomer 
 dress of dark blue, with masses of shining hair in natural ringlets 
 failing over the collar, mixing with her lei of red rose-buds. 
 She rode a powerful horse, of which she has much need, as 
 this is the most severe road on horses on Hawaii, and it 
 takes a really good animal to come to Waipio and go back 
 to Hilo. 
 
 We got away at seven in bright sunshine, and D.'s husband 
 accompanied us the first mile to see that our girths and gear 
 were all right. It was very slippery, but my mule deftly 
 gathered her feet under her, and slid when she could not walk. 
 From Onomea to the place where we expected to find the 
 guide, we kept going up and down the steep sides of ravines, 
 and scrambling through torrents till we reached a deep and 
 most picturesque gulch, with a primitive school-house at the 
 bottom, and some grass-houses clustering under palms and 
 papayas, a valley scene of endless ease and perpetual afternoon. 
 Here we found that D.'s uncle, who was to have been our 
 guide, could not go, because his horse was not strong enough, 
 but her cousin volunteered his escort, and went away to catch 
 his horse, while we tethered ours and went into the school- 
 house. 
 
 This reminded me somewhat of the very poorest schools 
 connected with the Edinburgh Ladies' Highland School Asso- 
 ciation, but the teacher had a remarkable paucity of clothing, 
 and he seemed to have the charge of his baby, which, much 
 clothed, and indeed much muffled, lay on the bench beside 
 him. For there were benches, and a desk, and even a black- 
 board and primers down in the deep wild gulch, where the 
 music of living waters, and the thunderous roll of the Pacific, 
 accompanied the children's tuneless voices as they sang an 
 Hawaiian hymn. I shall remember nothing of the scholars 
 but rows of gleaming white teeth, and splendid brown eyes. 1 
 thought both teacher and children very apathetic. There were 
 lamentably few, though the pretty rigidly enforced law, which 
 compels all children between the ages of six and fifteen to 
 attend school for forty weeks of the year, had probably gathered 
 
86 ffA WAIT. [letter x, 
 
 together all the children of the district. They all wore coloured 
 chemises and Ids of flowers. Outside, some natives presented 
 us with some ripe /a/oy^J. 
 
 Mounting again, we were joined by two native women, who 
 were travelling the greater part of the way hither, and this 
 made it more cheerful for D. The elder one had nothing on 
 her head but her wild black hair, and she wore a black holohi, 
 a lei of the orange seeds of the pandanus, orange trousers and 
 big spurs strapped on her bare feet. A child of four, bundled 
 up in a black poncho, rode on a blanket behind the saddle, 
 and was tied to the woman's waist, by an orange shawl. The 
 younger woman, who was very pretty, wore a sailor's hat. Ids 
 of crimson ohia blossoms round her hat and throat, a black 
 holoku, a crimson poncho, and one spur, and held up a green 
 umbrella whenever it rained. 
 
 We were shortly joined by Kaluna, the cousin, on an old, 
 big, wall-eyed, bare-tailed, raw-boned horse, whose wall-eyes 
 contrived to express mingled suspicion and fear, while a flabby, 
 pendant, lower lip, conveyed the impression of complete abject- 
 ness. He looked like some human beings who would be 
 vicious if they dared, but the vice had been beaten out of him 
 long ago, and only the fear remained. He has a raw suppu- 
 rating sore under the saddle, glueing the blanket to his lean 
 back, and crouches when he is mounted. Both legs on one 
 side look shorter than on the other, giving a crooked look to 
 himself and his rider, and his bare feet are worn thin as if he 
 had been on lava. I rode him for a mile yesterday, and when 
 he attempted a convulsive canter, with three short steps and a 
 stumble in it, his abbreviated off-legs made me feel as if I were 
 rolling over on one side. Kaluna beats him the whole time 
 with a heavy stick ; but except when he strikes him most bar- 
 barously about his eyes and nose, he only cringes, without 
 quickening his pace. When I rode him mercifully the true 
 hound nature came out. The sufferings of this wretched animal 
 have been the great drawback on this journey. I have now 
 bribed Kaluna with as much as the horse is worth to give him 
 a month's rest, and long before that time I hope the owl-hawks 
 will be picking his bones. 
 
 The horse has come before the rider, but Kaluna is no non- 
 entity. He is a very handsome youth of sixteen, with eyes 
 which are remarkable, even in this land of splendid eyes, a 
 straight nose, a very fine mouth, and beautiful teeth, a mass of 
 wavy, almost curly hair, and a complexion not so brown as to 
 
LETTER X.] A YOUNG "Savage:' 87 
 
 conceal the mantling of the bright southern blood in his cheeks. 
 His iigure is lithe, athletic, and as pliable as if he were an in- 
 vertebrate animal, capable of unlimited doublings up and con- 
 tortions, to which his thin white shirt and blue cotton trousers 
 are no impediment. He is almost a complete savage ; his 
 movements are impulsive and uncontrolled, and his handsome 
 face looks as if it belonged to a half-tamed creature out of the 
 woods. He talks loud, laughs incessantly, croons a monotonous 
 chant, which sounds almost as heathenish as tom-toms, throws 
 himself out of his saddle, hanging on by one foot, lingers behind 
 to gather fruits, and then comes tearing up, beating his horse 
 over the ears and nose, with a fearful yell and a prolonged 
 sound Hke har-r-rouche, striking my mule and threatening to 
 overturn me as he passes me on the narrow track. He is the 
 most thoroughly careless and irresponsible being I ever saw, 
 reckless about the horses, reckless about himself, without any 
 manners or any obvious sense of right and propriety. In his 
 mouth this musical tongue becomes as harsh as the speech of a 
 cockatoo or parrot. His manner is familiar. He rides up to 
 me, pokes his head under my hat, and says, interrogatively, 
 " Cold !" by which I understand that the poor boy is shivering 
 himself. In eating he plunges his hand into my bowl of fowl, 
 or snatches half my biscuit. Yet I daresay he means well, and 
 I am thoroughly amused with him, except when he maltreats 
 his horse. 
 
 It is a very strange life going about with natives, whose 
 ideas, as shown by their habits, are, to say the least of it, very 
 peculiar. Deborah speaks English fairly, having been brought 
 up by white people, and is a very nice girl. But were she one 
 of our own race I should not suppose her to be more than 
 eleven years old, and she does not seem able to understand my 
 ideas on any subject, though I can be very much interested 
 and amused with hearing hers. 
 
 We had a perfect day until the middle of the afternoon. The 
 dimpling Pa.cific was never more than a mile from us as we 
 kept the narrow track in the long green grass, and on our left 
 the blunt, snow-patched peaks of Mauna Kea rose from the 
 girdle of forest, looking so delusively near that I fancied a two- 
 hours' climb would take us to his lofty summit. The track for 
 twenty-six miles is just in and out of gulches, from 100 to 800 
 feet in depth, all opening on the sea, which sweeps into them 
 in three booming rollers. The candle-nut or kukui (aleurites 
 triloba) tree, which on the whole predominates, has leaves of a 
 
88 HAWAII. [letter X. 
 
 rich, deep green when mature, which contrast beautifully with 
 the flaky, silvery look of the younger foliage. Some of the 
 shallower gulches are filled exclusively with this tree, which in 
 growing up to the light to within loo feet of the top, presents 
 amass and density of leafage quite unique, giving the gulch 
 the appearance as if billows of green had rolled in and solidified 
 there. Each gulch has some specialty of ferns and trees, and 
 in such a distance as sixty miles they vary considerably with 
 the variations of soil, climate, and temperature. But every- 
 where the rocks, trees, and soil are covered and crowded with 
 the most exquisite ferns and mosses, from the great tree-fern, 
 whose bright fronds light up the darker foliage, to the lovely 
 maiden-hair and graceful selaginellas which are mirrored in 
 pools of sparkling water. Everywhere, too, the great blue 
 morning glory opened to a heaven not bluer than itself. 
 
 The descent into the gulches is always solemn. You canter 
 along a bright breezy upland, and are suddenly arrested by a 
 precipice, and from the depths of a forest-draped abyss a low 
 plash or murmur rises, or a deep bass sound, significant of 
 water which must be crossed, and one reluctantly leaves the 
 upper air to plunge into heavy shadow, and each experience 
 increases one's apprehensions concerning the next. Though in 
 some gulches the kukui preponderates, in others the lauhala 
 whose aerial roots support it in otherwise impossible positions, 
 and in others the sombre ohia, yet there were some grand clefts 
 in which nature has mingled her treasures impartially, and out 
 of cool depths of ferns rose the feathery coco-palm, the glorious 
 breadfruit, with its green melon-like fruit, the large ohia, ideal 
 in its beauty, — the most gorgeous flowering tree I have ever 
 seen, with spikes of rose-crimson blossoms borne on the old 
 wood, blazing among its shining many-tinted leafage, — the tall 
 papaya with its fantastic crown, the profuse, gigantic plantain, 
 and innumerable other trees, shrubs, and lianas, in the beauty 
 and bounteousness of an endless spring. Imagine my surprise 
 on seeing at the bottom of one gulch, a grove of good-sized, 
 dark-leaved, very handsome trees, with an abundance of smooth, 
 round, green fruit upon them, and on reaching them finding 
 that they were orange trees, their great size, far exceeding that 
 of the largest at Valencia, having prevented me from recog- 
 nizing them earlier ! In another, some large shrubs with oval, 
 shining, dark leaves, much crimped at the edges, bright green 
 berries along the stalks, and masses of pure white flowers lying 
 flat, like snow on evergreens, turned out to be coffee ! The 
 
LETTER X.] CHOSSING THE GULCHES. 89 
 
 guavfi with its obtuse smooth kaves, sweet, white blossoms on 
 soHtary, axillary stalks, and yellow fruit was universal. The 
 novelty of the fruit, foliage, and vegetation is an intense delight 
 to me. I should like to see how the rigid aspect of a coniferous 
 tree, of which there is not one indigenous to the islands, would 
 look by contrast. We passed through a long thicket of sumach, 
 an exotic from North America, which still retains its old habit 
 of shedding its leaves, and its grey, wintry, desolate-looking 
 branches reminded me that there are less favoured parts of the 
 world, and that you are among mist, cold, murk, slush, gales, 
 leaflessness, and all the dismal concomitants of an English 
 winter. 
 
 It is wonderful that people should have thought of crossing 
 these gulches on anything with four legs. Formerly, that is, 
 within the last thirty years, the precipices could only be 
 ascended by climbing with the utmost care, and descended by 
 being lowered with ropes from crag to crag, and from tree to 
 tree, when hanging on by the hands became impracticable to 
 even the most experienced mountaineer. In this last fashion 
 Mr. Coan and Mr. Lyons were let down to preach the gospel 
 to the people of the then populous valleys. But within recent 
 years, narrow tracks, allowing one horse to pass another, have 
 been cut along the sides of these precipices, without any 
 windings to make them easier, and only deviating enough from 
 the perpendicular to allow of their descent by the sure-footed 
 native-bom animals. Most of them are worn by water and , 
 animals' feet, broken, rugged, jagged, with steps of rock some- 
 times three feet high, produced by lareakage here and there. 
 Up and down these the animals shp, jump, and scramble, some 
 of them standing still until severely spurred, or driven by some 
 one from behind. Then there are softer descents, slippery 
 with damp, and perilous in heavy rains, down which they slide 
 dexterously, gathering all their legs under them. On a few of 
 these tracks a false step means death, but the vegetation which 
 clothes the pali below, blinds one to the risk. I don't think 
 anything would induce me to go up a swinging zigzag— up a 
 terrible pali opposite to me as I write, the sides of which are 
 quite undraped. 
 
 All the gulches for the first twenty-four miles contain running 
 water. The great Hakalau gulch which we crossed early yester- 
 day, has a river with a smooth bed as wide as the Thames at Eton. 
 Some have only small quiet streams, which pass gently through 
 ferny grottoes. Others have fierce, strong torrents dashing 
 
90 HA WAIT. [letter x. 
 
 between abrupt walls of rock, among immense boulders into 
 deep abysses, and cast themselves over precipice after pre- 
 cipice into the ocean. Probably, many of these are the courses 
 of fire torrents, whose jagged masses of a-a have since been 
 worn smooth, and channelled into holes by the action of water. 
 A few are crossed on narrow bridges, but the majority are 
 forded, if that quiet conventional term can be applied to the 
 violent flounderings by which the horses bring one through. 
 The transparency deceives them, and however deep the water 
 is, they always try to lift their fore feet out of it, which gives 
 them a disagreeable rolling motion. Mr. Brigham in his 
 valuable monograph on the Hawaiian volcanoes quoted below,* 
 appears as much impressed with these gulches as I am. 
 
 We lunched in one glorious valley, and Kaluna made drink- 
 ing cups which held fully a pint, out of the beautiful leaves of the 
 Arum esculentum. Towards afternoon turbid-looking clouds 
 lowered over the sea, and by the time we reached the worst 
 fali of all, the south side of Laupahoehoe, they burst on us in 
 torrents of rain accompanied by strong wind. This terrible 
 precipice, takes one entirely by surprise. Kaluna, who rode 
 first, disappeared so suddenly that I thought he had gone 
 over. It is merely a dangerous broken ledge, and besides 
 that it looks as if there were only foothold for a goat, one is 
 dizzied by the sight of the foaming ocean immediately below, 
 and, when we actually reached the bottom, there was only a 
 narrow strip of shingle between the stupendous cliff and the 
 resounding surges, which came up as if bent on destruction. 
 The path by which we descended looked a mere thread on the 
 side of the precipice. I don't know what the word beetling 
 means, but if it means anything bad, I will certainly apply it to 
 that /a//. 
 
 A number of disastrous-looking native houses are clustered 
 
 * "The road from Hilo to Laupahoehoe, a distance of thirty miles, runs 
 somewhat inland, and is one of the most remarkable in the world. 
 Ravines, 1, 800 or 2,000 feet deep, and less than a mile wide, extend far up 
 the slopes of Mauna Kea. Streams, liable to sudden and tremendous 
 freshets, myst be traversed on a path of indescribable steepness, winding 
 zig-zag up and down the beautifully wooded slopes or precipices, which are 
 ornamented with cascades of every conceivable form. P'ew strangers, 
 when they come to the worst precipices, dare to ride down, but such is the 
 nature of the rough steps, that a horse or mule will pass them with less 
 difficulty than a man on foot who is unused to climbing. No less than 
 sixty-five streams must be crossed in a distance of thirty miles. " — Brigham 
 " On the Hawaiian Volcanoes." 
 
I.ETTEU X.] BOLA-BOLA'S DWELLING. gi 
 
 under some very tall palms in the open part of the gulch, but 
 it is a most wretched situation ; the roar of the surf is deafen- 
 ing, the scanty supply of water is brackish, there are rumours 
 that leprosy is rife, and the people are said to be the poorest 
 on Hawaii. We were warned that we could not spend a night 
 comfortably there, so wet, tired, and stiff, we rode on other six 
 miles to the house of a native called Bola-Bola, where we had 
 been instructed to remain. The rain was heavy and ceaseless, 
 and the trail had become so slippery that our progress was 
 much retarded. It was a most unpropitious-looking evening, 
 and I began to feel the paipful stiffness arising from prolonged 
 fatigue in saturated clothes. I indulged in various imagina- 
 tions as we rode up the long ascent leading to Bola-Bola's, 
 but this time they were not of sofas and tea, and I never 
 aspired to anything beyond drying my clothes by a good 
 fire, for at Hilo some people had shrugged their shoulders, and 
 others had laughed mysteriously at the idea of our sleeping 
 there, and some had said it was one of the worst of native 
 houses. 
 
 A single glance was enough. It was a dilapidated frame- 
 house, altogether forlorn, standing unsheltered on a slope of 
 the mountain, with one or two yet more forlorn grass-piggeries, 
 which I supposed might be the cook house, and eating-house 
 near it 
 
 A prolonged har-r-r-rouche from Kaluna brought out a man 
 with a female horde behind him, all shuffling into clothes as we 
 approached, and we stifHy dismounted from the wet saddles in 
 which we had sat for ten hours, and stiffly hobbled up into the 
 littered verandah, the water dripping from our clothes, and 
 squeezing out of our boots at every step. Inside there was 
 one room about i8 x 14 feet, which looked as if the people 
 had just arrived and had thrown down their goods promis- 
 cuously. There were mats on the floor not over clean, and 
 half the room was littered and piled with mats rolled up, 
 boxes, bamboos, saddles, blankets, lassos, cocoanuts, kalo roots, 
 bananas, quilts, pans, calabashes, bundles of hard poi in ti 
 leaves, bones, cats, fowls, clothes. A frightful old woman, 
 looking like a relic of the old heathen days, with bristling grey 
 hair cut short, her body tattooed all over, and no clothing but 
 a ragged blanket huddled round her shoulders ; a girl about 
 twelve, with torrents of shining hair, and a piece of bright 
 green calico thrown round her, and two very good-looking 
 young women in rose-coloured chemises, one of them holding 
 
92 HA WAIT. [letter x. 
 
 a baby, were squatting and lying on the mats, one over 
 another, like a heap of savages. 
 
 When the man found that we were going to stay all night he 
 bestirred himself, dragged some of the things to one side, and 
 put down a shake-down of pulu (the silky covering of the 
 fronds of one species of tree-fern), with a sheet over it, and a 
 gay quilt of orange and red cotton. There was a thin printed 
 muslin curtain to divide off one half of the room, a usual 
 arrangement in native houses. He then helped to unsaddle 
 the horses, and the confusion of the room was increased by a 
 heap of our wet saddles, blankets, and gear. All this time the 
 women lay on the floor and stared at us. 
 
 Rheumatism seemed impending, for the air up there was 
 chilly, and I said to Deborah that I must make some change in 
 my dress, and she signed to Kaluna, who sprang at my soaked 
 boots and pulled them off, and my stockings too, with a savage 
 alacrity which left it doubtful for a moment whether he had not 
 also pulled off my feet ! I had no means of making any 
 further change except putting on a wrapper over my wet 
 clothes. 
 
 Meanwhile the man killed and boiled a fowl, and boiled 
 some sweet potato, and when these untempting viands, and a 
 calabash of pot were put before us, we sat round them and 
 eat J I with my knife, the others with their fingers. There 
 was coffee in a dirty bowl. The females had arranged a 
 row of pillows on their mat, and all lay face downwards, with 
 their chins resting upon them, staring at us with their great 
 brown eyes, and talking and laughing incessantly. They had 
 low sensual faces, like some low order of animal. When our 
 meal was over, the man threw them the relics, and they soon 
 picked the bones clean. It surprised me that after such a 
 badly served meal the man brought a bowl of water for our 
 hands, and something intended for a towel. 
 
 By this time it was dark, and a stone, deeply hollowed at 
 the top, was produced, containing beef fat and a piece of rag 
 for a wick, which burned with a strong flaring light. The 
 women gathered themselves up and sat round a large calabash 
 oi poi, conveying the sour paste to their mouths with an 
 inimitable twist of the fingers, laying their heads back and 
 closing their eyes with a look of animal satisfaction. When 
 they had eaten they lay down as before, with their chins on 
 their pillows, and again the row of great brown eyes confronted 
 me. Deborah, Kaluna, and the women talked incessantly in 
 
LETTER X.] NOCTURNAL DIVERSIONS. 93 
 
 loud shrill voices till Kaluna uttered the word auwe with a long 
 groaning intonation, apparently signifying weariness, divested 
 himself of his clothes, and laid down on a mat alongside our 
 shake-down, upon which we let down the dividing curtain and 
 wrapped ourselves up as warmly as possible. 
 
 I was uneasy about Deborah who has had a cough for some 
 time, and consequently took the outside place under the window 
 which was broken, and presently a large cat jumped through the 
 hole and down upon me, followed by another and another, till 
 five wild cats had effected an entrance, making me a stepping- 
 stone to ulterior proceedings. Had there been a sixth I think I 
 could not have borne the infliction quietly. Strips of jerked 
 beef were hanging from the rafters, and by the light which was 
 still burning I watched the cats climb up stealthily, seize on 
 some of these, descend, and disappear through the window, 
 making me a stepping-stone as before, but with all their craft 
 they let some of the strips fall, which awoke Deborah, and next 
 I saw Kaluna's magnificent eyes peering at us under the 
 curtain. Then the natives got up, and smoked and eat more 
 poi at intervals, and talked, and Kaluna and Deborah quar- 
 relled, jokingly, about the time of night she told me, and the 
 moon through the rain-clouds occasionally gave us delusive 
 hopes of dawn, and I kept moving my place to get out of the 
 drip from the roof, and so the night passed. I was amused 
 aU the time, though I should have preferred sleep to such 
 nocturnal diversions. It was so new, and so odd, to be the 
 only white person among eleven natives in a lonely house, and 
 yet to be as secure from danger and annoyance as in our own 
 home. 
 
 At last a pale dawn did appear, but the rain was still coming 
 down heavily, and our poor animals were standing dismally 
 with their heads down and their tails turned towards the wind. 
 Yesterday evening I took a change of clothes out of the damp 
 saddle-bags, and put them into what I hoped was a dry place, 
 but they were soaked, wetter even than those in which I had 
 been sleeping, and my boots and Deborah's were so stiff, that 
 we gladly availed ourselves of Kaluna's most willing services. 
 The mode of washing was peculiar : he held a calabash with 
 about half-a-pint of water in it, while we bathed our faces and 
 hands, and all the natives looked on and tittered. This was 
 apparently his idea of politeness, for no persuasion would in- 
 duce him to put the bowl down on the mat, and Deborah 
 evidently thought it was proper respect. We had a repetition 
 
94 ffA WAIL [letter x. 
 
 of the same viands as the night before for breakfast, and, as 
 before, the women lay with their chins on their pillows and 
 stared at us. 
 
 The rain ceased almost as soon as we started, and though it 
 has not been a bright day, it has been very pleasant. There 
 are no large gulches on to-day's journey. The track is mostly 
 through long grass, over undulating uplands, with park-like 
 clumps of trees, and thickets of guava and the exotic sumach. 
 Different ferns, flowers, and vegetation, with much less 
 luxuriance and little water, denoted a drier climate and a 
 different soil. 
 
 We moved on in single file at a jog-trot wherever the road 
 admitted of it, meeting mounted natives now and then, which 
 led to a delay for the exchange of nuhou ; and twice we had to 
 turn into the thicket to avoid what here seems to be considered 
 a danger. There are many large herds of semi-wild bullocks 
 •on the mountains, branded cattle, as distinguished from the 
 wild or unbranded, and when they are wanted for food, a number 
 of experienced vaccheros on strong, shod horses go up, and 
 drive forty or fifty of them down. We met such a drove bound 
 for Kilo, with one or two men in front and others at the sides 
 and behind, uttering loud shouts. The bullocks are nearly 
 mad with being hunted and driven, and at times rush like a 
 living tornado, tearing up the earth with their horns. As soon 
 as the galloping riders are seen and the crooked-horned 
 beasts, you retire behind a screen. There must be some tra- 
 dition of some one having been knocked down and hurt, for 
 reckless as the natives are said to be, they are careful about 
 this, and we were warned several times by travellers whom we 
 met, that there were " bullocks ahead." The law provides that 
 the vaccheros shall station one of their number at the head of a 
 gulch to give notice when cattle are to pass through. 
 
 We jogged on again till we met a native who told us that we 
 were quite close to our destination ; but there were no signs ol 
 it, for we were still on the lofty uplands, and the only prominent 
 objects were huge headlands confronting the sea, I got off to 
 walk, as my mule seemed footsore, but had not gone many 
 yards when we came suddenly to the verge of a pali, about 
 i,ooo feet deep, with a narrow, fertile valley, and a yet higher 
 pali on the other side, both abutting perpendicularly on the 
 sea. I should think the valley is not more than three miles 
 long, and it is walled in by high, inaccessible mountains. It is 
 in fact, a gulch on a greatly enlarged scale. The prospect below 
 
LETTER X.] LUXURY IN A GULCH. 95 
 
 us was very charming, a fertile region perfectly level, protected 
 from the sea by sandhills, watered by a winding stream, and 
 bright with fishponds, meadow lands, kalo patches, orange and 
 coffee groves, figs, breadfruit, and palms. There were a number 
 of grass-houses, and a native church with a spire, and another 
 up the valley testified to the energy and aggressiveness of 
 Rome. We saw all this from the moment we reached the fait; 
 and it enlarged, and the detail grew upon us with every yard 
 of the laborious descent of broken, craggy track, which is the 
 only mode of access to the valley from the outer world.' I got 
 down on foot with difficulty ; a difficulty much increased by 
 the long rowels of my spurs, which caught on the rocks and 
 entangled my dress, the simple expedient of taking them off 
 not having occurred to me ! 
 
 A neat frame-house, with large stones between it and the 
 river, was our destination. It belongs to a native named Hale- 
 manu, a great man in the district, for, besides being a member 
 of the legislature, he is deputy sheriff. He is a man of property, 
 also ; and though he cannot speak a word of Enghsh, he is 
 well educated in Hawaiian, and writes an excellent hand. I 
 brought a letter of introduction to him from Mr. Severance, 
 and we were at once received with every hospitality, our horses 
 .cared for, and ourselves luxuriously lodged. We walked up 
 the valley before dark to get a view of a cascade, and found 
 supper ready on our return. This is such luxury after last 
 night. There is a very light, bright sitting-room, with papered 
 walls, and manilla matting on the floor, a round centre table 
 with books and a photograph album upon it, two rocking-chairs, 
 an office-desk, another table and chairs, and a Canadian lounge. 
 I can't imagine in what way this furniture was brought here. 
 Our bedroom opens from this, and it actually has a four-post 
 bedstead with mosquito bars, a lounge and two chairs, and the 
 , floor is covered with native matting. The washing apparatus 
 is rather an anomaly, for it consists of a basin and crash towel 
 placed in the verandah, in full view of fifteen people. The 
 ■natives all bathe in the river. 
 
 Halemanu has a cook house and native cook, and an eating- 
 room, where I was surprised to find everything in foreign style 
 — chairs, a table with a snow white cover, and table napkins, 
 •knives, forks, and even saltcellars. I asked him to eat with 
 us, and he used a knife and fork quite correctly, never, for 
 instance, putting the knife into his mouth. I was amused to 
 see him afterwards, sitting on a mat among his family and 
 
96 HA WAIT. [letter x. 
 
 dependants, helping himself to pot from a calabash with his 
 fingers. He gave us for supper delicious river fish fried, boiled 
 kalo, and Waipio coffee with boiled milk. 
 
 It is very annoying only to be able to converse with this 
 man through an interpreter; and Deborah, as is natural, is 
 rather unwilling to be troubled to speak English, now that she is 
 among her own people. After supper we sat by candlelight 
 in the parlour, and he showed me his photograph album. At 
 eight he took a large Bible, put on glasses, and read a chapter 
 in Hawaiian ; after which he knelt and prayed with profound 
 reverence of manner and tone. Towards the end I recognized 
 the Hawaiian words for " Our Father." * Here in Waipio there 
 is something pathetic in the idea of this Fatherhood, which is 
 wider than the ties of kin and race. Even here not one is a 
 stranger, an alien, a foreigner ! And this man, so civilized and 
 Christianized, only now in middle life, was, he said, " a big boy 
 when the first teachers came," and may very likely have wit- 
 nessed horrors in the heiau, or temple, close by, of which little 
 is left now. 
 
 This bedroom is thoroughly comfortable. Kaluna wanted to 
 sleep on the lounge here, probably because he is afraid of 
 akuas, or spirits, but we have exiled him to a blanket on the 
 parlour lounge. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
 * The Lord's Prayer in Hawaiian runs thus : — E ko mako Makua i-loko 
 o ka Lani, e hoauoia Kou Inoa E hiki mai Kou auhuni e malamaia Kou 
 Makemake ma ka-nei honua e like me ia i malamaia ma ka Lani e haawi 
 mai i a makau i ai no keia la e kala mai i ko makou lawehalaana me 
 makou e kala nei i ka poe i lawehala mai i a makou mai alakai i a makou i 
 ka hoowalewaleia mai ata a hookapele i a makou mai ka ino no ka mea 
 Nou ke Aupuni a me ka Mana a me ka hoonaniia a man loa 'ku. Amene. 
 
LETTER X. — continued. 
 
 The Waipio Fall— "Bessie Twinker " — William Wallace— Cities of 
 Refuge — Human Sacrifices — Legendary Tyrants. 
 
 We were thoroughly rested this morning, and very glad of a 
 fine day for a visit to the great cascade, which is rarely seen by 
 foreigners. My mule was slightly galled with the girth, and 
 having a strong fellow feeling with EHsha's servant, "Alas, 
 onaster, for it was borrowed ! " I have bought for $20 a pretty, 
 light, half-broken bay mare, which I rode to-day and liked 
 much. 
 
 After breakfast, which was a repetition of last night's supper, 
 we three, with Halemanu's daughter as guide, left on horseback 
 for the waterfall, though the natives tried to dissuade us by 
 saying that stones came down, and it was dangerous ; also that 
 people could not go in their clothes, there was so much wading. 
 In deference to this last opinion, D. rode without boots, and 
 I without stockings. We rode through the beautiful valley till 
 we reached a deep gorge turning off from it, which opens out 
 into a nearly circular chasm with walls 2,000 feet in height, 
 where we tethered our horses. A short time after leaving them, 
 D. said, " She says we can't go further in our clothes," but when 
 the natives saw me plunge boldly into the river in my riding 
 dress, which is reajly not unlike a fashionable, Newport bathing 
 suit, they thought better of it. It was a thoroughly rough tramp, 
 wading ten times through the river, which was sometimes up to 
 our knees, and sometimes to our waists, and besides the fighting 
 among slippery rocks in rushing water, we had to crawl and 
 slide up and down wet, mossy masses of dislodged rock, to 
 push with eyes shut through wet jungles of Indian shot, guava, 
 and a thorny vine, and sometimes to climb from tree to tree at 
 a considerable height. When, after an hour's fighting we 
 arrived in sight of the cascade, but not of the basin into which 
 it falls, our pretty guide declined to go further, saying that the 
 
yS> HA WAIT. [LETTER X. 
 
 wind was rising and that stones would fall and kill us ; but 
 being incredulous on this point, I left them,_ and with great 
 difficulty and many bruises, got up the river to its exit from the 
 basin, and there, being unable to climb the rocks on either 
 side, stood up to my throat in the still, tepid water till the 
 scene became real to me. 
 
 I do not care for any waterfall but Niagara, nor do I care in 
 itself for this one, for though its first leap is 200 feet and its 
 second 1,600, it is so frittered away and dissipated in spray, 
 owing to the very magnitude of its descent, that there is no 
 volume of water within sight to create mass or sound. But no 
 words can paint the majesty of the surroundings, the caverned, 
 precipitous walls of rock coming down in one black plunge 
 from the blue sky above to the dark abyss of water below, the 
 sullen, shuddering sound with which pieces of rock came 
 hurtling down among the trees, the thin tinkle of the water as 
 it falls, the full rush of the river, the feathery growth of ferns, 
 gigantic below, but so diminished by the height above, as only 
 to show their presence by the green tinge upon the rocks, while 
 in addition to the gloom produced by the stupendous height 
 of the cliffs, there is a cool, green darkness of dense forest, and 
 mighty trees of strange tropical forms glass themselves in the 
 black mirror of the basin. For one moment a ray of sunshine 
 turned the upper part of the spray into a rainbow, and never 
 to my eyes had the bow of promise looked so heavenly as 
 when it spanned the black, solemn, tree-shadowed abyss, whose 
 deep, still waters only catch a sunbeam on five days of the 
 year. 
 
 I found the natives regaling themselves on papaya, and on 
 live fresh-water shrimps, which they find in great numbers in 
 the river. I remembered that white people at home, calling 
 themselves civilized, eat live, or at least raw, oysters, but the 
 sight of these active, squirming shrimps struggling between the 
 white teeth of my associates was yet more repulsive. 
 
 We finished our adventurous expedition with limbs much 
 bruised, as well as torn and scratched, and before we emerged 
 from the chasm saw a rock dislodged, which ■ came crashing 
 down not far from us, carrying away an ohia. It is a gruesome 
 and dowie den, but well worth a visit. 
 
 We mounted again, and rode as far as we could up the 
 valley, fording the river in deep water several times, and coming 
 down the other side. The coffee trees in full blossom were 
 very beautiful, and they, as well as the oranges, have escaped 
 
LETTER X.] " BESSIE TWINKER." 99 
 
 the blight which has fallen upon both in other jjarts of the 
 island. In addition to the usual tropical productions, there 
 were some very fine fig trees and thickets of the castor-oil 
 plant, a very handsome shrub, when, as here, it grows to a 
 height of from 10 to 22 feet. The natives, having been joined 
 by some Waipio women, rode at full gallop over all sorts of 
 ground, and I enjoyed the speed of my mare without any appre- 
 hension of being thrown off. We rode among most extensive 
 kalo plantations, and large artificial fish-ponds, in which hun- 
 dreds of gold-fish were gleaming, and came back by the sea 
 shore, green with the maritime convolvulus, and the smooth- 
 bottomed river, which the Waipio folk use as a road. Canoes 
 glide along it, brown-skinned men wade down it floating bundles 
 of kalo after them, and strings of laden horses and mules follow 
 each other along its still waters. I hear that in another and 
 nearly unapproachable valley, a river serves the same purpose. 
 While we were riding up it, a great gust lifted off its surface in 
 fine spray, and almost blew us from our horses. Hawaii has 
 no hurricanes, but at some hours of the day Waipio is subject 
 to terrific gusts, which really justify the people in their objection 
 to visiting the cascade. Some time ago, in one of these, this 
 house was lifted up, carried 20 feet, and deposited in its pre- 
 sent position. 
 
 Supper was ready for ^x^—kalo, yams, spatchcock, poi, coffee, 
 rolls, and Oregon kippered salmon ; and when I told Halemanu 
 that the spatchcock and salmon reminded me of home, he was 
 quite pleased, and said he would provide the same for break- 
 fast to-morrow. 
 
 The owner of the mare, which I have named "Bessie 
 Twinker," had willingly sold her to me, though I told him I 
 could not pay him for her until I reached Onomea. I do not 
 know what had caused my credit to suffer during my absence, 
 but D., after talking long with him this evening, said to me, 
 " He says he can't let you have the horse, because when you've 
 taken it away, he thinks you will never send him the money." 
 I told her indignantly to tell him that English women never 
 cheated people, a broad and totally unsustainable assertion, 
 which had the effect of satisfying the poor fellow. 
 
 After Halemanu, Deborah, Kaluna, and a number of natives 
 had eaten their poi, Halemanu brought in a very handsome 
 silver candlestick, and expressed a wish that Deborah should 
 interpret for us. He asked a great many sensible questions 
 about England, specially about the state of the poor, the extent 
 
 H 2 
 
Missing Page 
 
Missing Page 
 
LETTER XI. 
 
 A Moonlight Start— Native Hospitality— Native Luxury -A Council of 
 War — The Rainy Season — The Melithreptes Pacifica — Prospects 
 darken — A Freshet— A Dialogue under Difficulties— A Sv^mi for Life 
 —The "Scotchman's Gulch." 
 
 HiLo, Hawaii. 
 
 There is a rumour that the king is coming as the guest of 
 Admiral Pennock in the Benicia. If it turns out to be true, it 
 will turn our quiet life upside down. 
 
 We met with fearful adventures in the swollen gulches be- 
 tween Laupahoehoe and Onomea. It is difficult to begin my 
 letter with the plain prose of our departure from Waipio, which 
 we accomplished on the morning after I last wrote. On rising 
 after a sound sleep, I found that my potted beef, which I had 
 carefully hung from a nail the night before, had been almost 
 carried away by small ants. These ants swarm in every house 
 on low altitudes. They assemble in legions as if by magic, and 
 by their orderly activity carry away all that they do not devour, 
 of all eatables which have not been placed on tables which 
 have rags dipped in a solution of corrosive sublimate wound 
 round their legs. 
 
 We breakfasted by lamplight, and because I had said that 
 some of the viands reminded me of home, our kind host had 
 provided them at that early hour. He absolutely refused to be 
 paid anything for the accommodation of our party, and said 
 he should be ashamed of himself if he took anything from a 
 lady travelUng without a husband. 
 
 It was a perfect morning. The full moon hung over the 
 enclosing /a//j, gleaming on coffee and breadfruit groves, and 
 on the surface of the river, which was just quivering under a 
 soft sea breeze. The dew was heavy, smoke curled idly from 
 native houses, the east was flushing with the dawn, and the 
 valley looked the picture of perfect peace. A number of 
 natives assembled to see us start, and they a^l shook hands 
 with us, exchanging alohas, and presenting us with leis of roses 
 and ohias. D. looked very pretty with a red hibiscus blossom 
 
LETTEE XI.] NATIVE HOSPITALITY. 103 
 
 in her shining hair. You would have been amused to se6 me 
 shaking hands with men dressed only in malos, or in the 
 short blue shirt reaching to the waist, much worn by them 
 when at work. 
 
 I rode my mare with some pride of proprietorship, and our 
 baggage for a time was packed on the mule, and we started up 
 the tremendous pali at the tail of a string of twenty mules and 
 horses laden with kalo. This was in the form of faiai, or hard 
 food, which is composed, as I think I mentioned before, of the 
 root baked and pounded, but without water. It is put up in 
 bundles wrapped in ti leaves, of from twenty to thirty pounds 
 each, secured with cocoanut fibre, in which state it will keep 
 for months, and much of the large quantity raised in Waipio is 
 exported to the plantations, the Waimea ranches, and the neigh- 
 bouring districts. A square mile of kalo, it is estimated, would 
 feed 15,000 Hawaiians for a year. 
 
 It was a beautiful view from the top of the pali. The white 
 moon was setting, the earliest sunlight was lighting up the dewy 
 depths of the lonely valley, reddening with a rich rose red the 
 huge headland which forms one of its sentinels ; heavy snow 
 had fallen during the night on Mauna Kea, and his great ragged 
 dome, snow-covered down to the forests, was blushing like an 
 Alpine peak at the touch of the early sun. It ripened into a 
 splendid joyous day, which redeemed the sweeping uplands of 
 Hamakua from the dreariness which I had thought belonged 
 to them. There was a fresh sea-breeze, and the sun, though 
 imclouded, was not too hot. We halted for an early lunch at 
 the clean grass-house we had stopped at before, and later in 
 the afternoon at that of the woman with whom we had ridden 
 from Hakalau, who received us very cordially, and regaled us 
 with/tfz and pork. 
 
 In order to avoid the amenities of Bola Sola's we rode thirty- 
 four miles, and towards evening descended the tremendous 
 steep, which leads to the surf-deafened village of Laupahoehoe. 
 Halemanu had given me a note of introduction to a widow 
 named Honolulu, which Deborah said began thus, " As I know 
 that you have the only clean house in L," and on presenting it we 
 were made very welcome. Besides the widow, a very redundant 
 beauty, there were her two brothers and two male cousins, and 
 all bestirred themselves in our service, the men in killing and 
 cooking the supper, and the woman in preparing the beds. It 
 was quite a large room, with doors at the end and side, and 
 fully a third was curtained off by a calico curtain, with a 
 
104 
 
 HA WAIT. [LETTER XI. 
 
 gorgeous Cretonne pattern upon it. I was delighted to see a 
 four-post bed, with mosquito bars, and a clean pulu mattrass, 
 with a linen sheet over it, covered with a beautiful quilt with _ a 
 quaint arabesque pattern on a white ground running round it, 
 and a wreath of green leaves in the centre. The native women 
 exercise the utmost ingenuity in the patterns and colours of 
 these quilts. Some of them are quite works of art. The 
 materials, which are plain and printed cottons, cost about $8, 
 and a complete quilt is worth from |i8 to $50. The widow took 
 six small pillows, daintily covered with silk, out of a chest, the 
 uses of which were not obvious, as two large pillows were 
 already on the bed. It was astonishing to see a native house 
 so handsomely furnished in so poor a place. The mats on the 
 floor were numerous and very fine. There were two tables, 
 several chairs, a bureau with a swinging mirror upon it, a basin, 
 crash towels, a caraff"e and a kerosene lamp. It is all very well 
 to be able to rough it, and yet better to enjoy doing so, but 
 such luxuries add much to one's contentment after eleven 
 hours in the saddle. 
 
 Honolulu wore a green chemise at first, but when supper 
 was ready she put a Macgregor tartan holoku over it. The 
 men were very active, and cooked the fowl in about the same 
 time that it takes to pluck one at home. They spread the 
 finest mat I have seen in the centre of the floor as a tablecloth, 
 and put down on it bowls containing the fowl and sweet 
 potatoes, and the unfailing calabash of poi. Tea, coffee, and 
 milk were not procurable, and as the water is slimy and brackish, 
 I offered a boy a dime to get me a cocoanut, and presently 
 eight great, misshapen things were rolled down at the door. 
 The outside is a smooth buff rind, underneath which is a fibrous 
 covering, enormously strong and about an inch thick, which 
 when stripped off reveals the nut as we see it, but of a very 
 pale colour. Those we opened were quite young, and each 
 contained nearly three tumblers of almost effervescent, very 
 sweet, slightly acidulated, perfectly limpid water, with a strong 
 flavour of cocoanut. It is a delicious beverage. The meat was 
 so thin and soft that it could have been spooned out like the 
 white of an egg if we had had any spoons. We all sat cross- 
 legged round our meal, and all Laupahoehoe crowded into the 
 room and verandah with the most persistent, unwinking, gimlet- 
 ing stare I ever saw. It was really unpleasant, not only to 
 hear a Babel of talking, of which, judging from the constant 
 repetition of the words wahine haole, I was the subject, but to 
 
LiiTTER XI.] KALUNA'S POLITENESS. 105 
 
 have to eat under the focussed stare of twenty pair of eyes. 
 My folding camp-knife appears an object of great interest, and 
 it was handed round, inside and outside the house. When I 
 retired about seven, the assemblage was still in full session. 
 
 The stars were then bright, but when I woke the next 
 morning a strong breeze was blowing, the surf was roaring so 
 loud as almost to drown human voices, and rolling up in 
 gigantic surges, and to judge from appearances, the rain, which 
 was falling in torrents, had been falling for some hours. There 
 was much buzzing among the natives regarding our prospects 
 for the day. I shall always think from their tone and manner, 
 and the frequent repetition of the names of the three worst 
 gulches, that the older men tried to dissuade us from going ; 
 but Deborah, who was very anxious to be at home by Sunday, 
 said that the verdict was that if we started at once for our ride 
 of twenty-three miles we might reach Onomea before the freshet 
 came on. This might have been the case had it not been for 
 Kaluna. Not only was his horse worn out, but nothing would 
 induce him to lead the mule, and she went off on foraging expe- 
 ditions continually, which further detained us. Kaluna had 
 grown quite polite in his savage way. He always insisted on 
 putting on and taking off my boots, carried me once through 
 the Waipio river, helped me to pack the saddle-bags, and even 
 offered to brush my hair ! He frequently brought me guavas 
 on the road, saying, " eat," and often rode up, saying inter- 
 rogatively, "tired?" "cold?" D. told me that he was very 
 tired, and I was very sorry for him, for he was so thinly and 
 poorly dressed, and the natives are not strong enough to bear 
 exposure to cold as we can, and a temperature at 68° is cold 
 to them. But he was quite incorrigible, and thrashed his horse 
 to the last. 
 
 We breakfasted on fowl, pot, and cocoanut milk, in presence 
 of even a larger number of spectators than the night before, 
 one of them a very old man looking savagely picturesque, 
 with a red blanket tied round his waist, leaving his lean 
 chest and arms, which were elaborately tattooed, completely 
 exposed. 
 
 ■ The mule had been _ slightly chafed by the gear, and in my 
 anxiety about a borrowed animal, of which Mr. Austin makes 
 a great joke, I put my saddle-bags on my own mare in an evil 
 hour, and not only these, but some fine cocoanuts, tied up in 
 a waterproof which had long ago proved its worthlessness. It 
 was a grotesquely miserable picture. The house is not far 
 
io6 ffA WAIT. [letter xi. 
 
 from the beach, and the surf, beyond which a heavy mist hung, 
 was coming in with such a tremendous sound that we had to 
 shout at the top of our voices in order to be heard. The sides 
 of the great gulch rose like prison walls, cascades which had 
 no existence the previous night hurled themselves from the 
 summit of the cliffs directly into the sea, the rain, which fell in 
 sheets, not drops, covered the ground to the depth of two or 
 three inches, and dripped from the wretched, shivering horses, 
 which stood huddled together with their tails between their 
 legs. My thin flannel suit was wet through even before we 
 mounted. I dispensed with stockings, as I was told that 
 wearing them in rain chills and stiffens the limbs. D., about 
 whom I was anxious, as well as about the mule, had a really 
 waterproof cloak, and I am glad to say has quite lost the cough 
 from which she suffered before our expedition. She does not 
 care about rain any more than I do. 
 
 We soon reached the top of the worst and dizziest of all the 
 palis, and then splashed on, mile after mile, down sliding banks, 
 and along rocky tracks, from which the soil had been com- 
 pletely carried, the rain falling all the time. In some places 
 several feet of soil had been carried away, and we passed 
 through water-rents, the sides of which were as high as our 
 horses' heads, where the ground had been level a few days 
 before. By noon the aspect of things became so bad that I 
 wished we had a white man with us, as I was uneasy about 
 some of the deepest gulches. When four hours' journey from 
 Onornea, Kaluna's horse broke down, and he left us to get 
 another, and we rode a mile out of our way to visit Deborah's 
 grandparents. 
 
 Her uncle carried us across some water to their cook-house, 
 where, happily, a kalo baking had just been accomplished in a 
 hole in the ground, lined with stones, among which the embers 
 were still warm. In this very small hut, in which a man could 
 hardly stand upright, there were five men only dressed in malos, 
 four women, two of them very old, much tattooed, and huddled 
 up in blankets, two children, five pertinaciously sociable dogs, 
 two cats, and heaps of things of different kinds. The natives 
 are most gregarious, always visiting each other, and living in 
 each other's houses, and so hospitable that no Hawaiian, how- 
 ever poor, will refuse to share his last mouthful of pot with a 
 stranger of his own race. These people looked very poor, but 
 probably were not really so, as they had a nice grass-house, 
 with very fine mats, within a few yards. 
 
LETTER XI.] A COSTLY MANTLE. 107 
 
 A man went out, cut off the head of a fowl, singed it in the 
 flame, cut it into pieces, put it into a pot to boil, and before 
 our feet were warm the bird was cooked, and we ate it out of 
 the pot with some baked kalo. D. took me out to see some 
 mango trees, and a pond filled with gold fish, which she said 
 had been hers when she was a child. She seemed very fond 
 of her relatives, among whom she looked like a fairy princess ; 
 and I think they admired her very much, and treated her with 
 some deference. The object of our visit was to procure a 
 le of birds' feathers which they had been making for her, and 
 for which I am sure 300 birds must have been sacrificed. It 
 was a very beautiful as well as costly ornament,* and most in- 
 geniously packed for travelling by being laid at full length 
 within a slender cylinder of bamboo. 
 
 We rode on again, somewhat unwillingly on my part, for 
 though I thought my apprehensions might be cowardly and 
 ignorant, yet D. was but a child, and had the attractive wilful- 
 ness of childhood, and she was, I saw, determined to get back 
 to her husband, and the devotion and affection of the young 
 wife were so pleasant to see, that I had not the heart to offer 
 serious opposition to her wishes, especially as I knew that I 
 might be exaggerating the possible peril. I gathered, however, 
 from what she said, that her people wanted us to remain until 
 Monday, especially as none of them could go with us, their 
 horses being at some distance. I thought it a sign of diffi- 
 culties ahead, that on one of the most frequented tracks in 
 Hawaii, we had not met a single traveller, though it was 
 Saturday, a special travelling day. 
 
 We crossed one gulch in which the water was strong, and up 
 to our horses' bodies, and came upon the incorrigible Kaluna, 
 who, instead of catching his horse, was recounting his ad- 
 ventures to a circle of natives, but promised to follow us soon. 
 D. then said that the next gulch was rather a bad one, and 
 that we must not wait for Kaluna, but ride fast, and try to get 
 
 * A small bird, Melithreptes Pacifica, inhabits the mountainous regions 
 of Hawaii, and has under each wing a single feather, one inch long, of a 
 bright canary yellow. The birds are caught by means of a viscid substance 
 smeared on poles. Formerly they were strictly tabu. It is of these 
 feather^that the mamo or war-cloak of Kamehameha I., now used on state 
 occasions by the Hawaiian kings, is composed. This priceless mantle is 
 four feet long, eleven and a half feet wide at the bottom, and its formation 
 occupied nine successive reigns. It is one of the costliest of royal orna- 
 ments, if the labour spent upon it is estimated, and the feathers of which it 
 is made have been valued at a dollar and a half for five. 
 
io8 HA WAIL [letter xi. 
 
 through it When we reached the pali above it, we heard the 
 roaring of a torrent, and when we descended to its brink it 
 looked truly bad, but D. rode in, and I waited on the margin. 
 She got safely across, but when she was near the opposite side 
 her large horse plunged, slipped, and scrambled in a most 
 unpleasant way, and she screamed something to me which I 
 could not hear. Then I went in, and 
 
 " At the first plunge the horse sank low, 
 And the water broke o'er the saddle bow : " 
 
 but the brave animal struggled through, with the water up to 
 the top of her back, till she reached the place where D.'s 
 horse had looked so insecure. In another moment she and I 
 rolled backwards into deep water, as if she had slipped from a 
 submerged rock. I saw her fore feet pawing the air, and then 
 only her head was above water. I struck her hard with my 
 spurs, she snorted, clawed, made a desperate struggle, regained 
 her footing, got into shallow water, and landed safely. It was 
 a small but not an agreeable adventure. 
 
 We went on again, the track now really dangerous from 
 denudation and slipperiness. The rain came down, if possible, 
 yet more heavily, and coursed fiercely down each pali track. 
 Hundreds of cascades leapt from the cliffs, bringing down 
 stones with a rattling sound. We crossed a bridge over one 
 gulch, where the water was thundering down in such volume 
 that it seemed as if it must rend the hard basalt of the palts. 
 Then we reached the lofty top of the great Hakalau gulch, the 
 largest of all, with the double river, and the ocean close to the 
 ford. Mingling with the deep reverberations of the surf, I 
 heard the sharp, crisp rush of a river, and of " a river that has 
 no bridge." 
 
 The dense fohage, and the exigencies of the steep track, 
 which had become very difficult, owing to the washing away of 
 the soil, prevented me from seeing anything till I got down. I 
 found Deborah speaking to a native, who was gesticulating 
 very emphatically, and pointing up the river. The roar was 
 deafening, and the sight terrific. Where there were two shallow 
 streams a week ago, with a house and good-sized piece of 
 ground above their confluence, there was now one spinning, 
 rushing, chafing, foaming river, twice as wide as the Clyde at 
 Glasgow, the land was submerged, and, if I remember cor- 
 rectly, the house only stood above the iiood. And, most fear- 
 ful to look upon, the ocean, in three huge breakers, had come 
 
LETTER XI.] AN ALARMING PROSPECT. 109 
 
 quite in, and its mountains of white surge looked fearfully near 
 the only possible crossing. I entreated D. not to go on. She 
 said we could not go back, that the last gulch was already im- 
 passable, that between the two there was no house in which we 
 could sleep, that the river had a good bottom, that the man 
 thought if our horses were strong we could cross now, but 
 not later, &c. In short, she overbore all opposition, and 
 plunged in, calling to me, " Spur, spur, all the time." 
 
 Just as I went in, I took my knife and cut open the cloak 
 which contained the cocoanuts. Deborah's horse I knew was 
 strong, and shod, but my unshod and untried mare, what of 
 her ? My soul and senses literally reeled among the dizzy 
 horrors of the wide, wild tide, but with an effort I regained 
 sense and self-possession, for we were in, and there was no 
 turning. D., ahead, screeched to me what I could not hear ; 
 she said afterwards it was "spur, spur, and keep up the river;" 
 the native was shrieking in Hawaiian from the hinder shore, 
 and waving to the right, but the torrents of rain, the crash of 
 the breakers, and the rush and hurry of the river confused 
 both sight and hearing. I saw D.'s great horse carried off his 
 legs, my mare, too, was swimming, and shortly afterwards, 
 between swimming, struggling, and floundering, we reached 
 what had been the junction of the two rivers, where there was 
 foothold, and the water was only up to the seats of the 
 saddles. 
 
 Remember, we were both sitting nearly up to our waists in 
 water, and it was only by screaming that our voices were 
 heard above the din, and to return or go on seemed equally 
 perilous. Under these critical circumstances the following 
 colloquy took place, on my side, with teeth chattering, and on 
 hers with a sudden forgetfulness of English, produced by her 
 first sense of the imminent danger we were in. 
 
 Self. — " My mare is so tired, and so heavily weighted, we 
 shall be drowned, or I shall." 
 
 Deborah (with more reason on her side). — " But can't go 
 back, we no stay here, water higher all minutes, spur horse, 
 think we come through." 
 
 Self. — " But if we go on there is broader, deeper water 
 between us and the shore ; your husband would not like you 
 to run such a risL" 
 
 Deborah — " Think we get through ; if horses give out, we let 
 go ; I swim and save you." 
 
 Even under these circumstances a gleam of the ludicrous 
 
1 lO HA WAII. [LETTER XI. 
 
 shot through me at the idea of this small fragile being bearing 
 up my weight among the breakers. I attempted to shift my 
 saddle-bags upon her powerful horse, but being full of water 
 and under water, the attempt failed, and as we spoke both our 
 horses were carried off their vantage ground into deep water. 
 
 With wilder fury the river rushed by, its waters whirled 
 dizzUy, and, in spite of spurring and lifting with the rein, the 
 horses were swept seawards. I saw Deborah's horse spin 
 round, and thought woefully of the possible fate of the bright 
 young wife, almost a bride ; only the horses' heads and our 
 own heads and shoulders were above water; the surf was 
 thundering on our left, and we were drifting towards it " broad- 
 side on." When I saw the young girl's face of horror I felt 
 increased presence of mind, and raising my voice to a shriek, 
 and telling her to do as I did, I lifted and turned rsxy mare 
 with the rein, so that her chest and not her side should receive 
 the force of the river, and the brave animal, as if seeing what she 
 should do, struck out desperately. It was a horrible suspense. 
 Were we stemming the torrent, or was it sweeping us back that 
 very short distance which lay between us and the mountainous 
 breakers ? I constantly spurred my mare, guiding her slightly 
 to the left, the side grew nearer, and after exhausting struggles, 
 Deborah's horse touched ground, and her voice came faintly 
 .towards me like a voice in a dream, still calling "Spur, spur." 
 My mare touched ground twice, and was carried off again 
 before she fairly got to land some yards nearer the sea than 
 the bridle track. 
 
 I then put our saddle-bags on Deborah's horse. It was one 
 of the worst and steepest of the 'palis that we had to ascend ; 
 but I can't remember anything about the road except that we 
 had to leap some place which we could not cross otherwise. 
 Deborah, then thoroughly alive to a sense of risk, said that 
 there was only one more bad gulch to cross before we reached 
 Onomea, but it was the most dangerous of all, and we could 
 not get across, she feared, but we might go and look at it. 
 I only remember the extreme solitude of the region, and 
 scrambling and sliding down a most precipitous pali, hearing a 
 roar like cataract upon cataract, and coming suddenly down 
 upon a sublime and picturesque scene, with only standing 
 room, and that knee-deep in water, between a savage torrent 
 and the cliff. This gulch, called the Scotchman's gulch, I am 
 told, because a Scotchman was drowned there, must be at its 
 crossing three-quarters of a mile inland, and three hundred feet 
 
LETTER XI.] CROSSING A TORRENT. in 
 
 above the sea. In going to Waipio, on noticing the deep 
 holes and enormous boulders, some of them higher than a 
 man on horseback, I had thought what a fearful place it would 
 be if it were ever full ; but my imagination had not reached 
 the reality. One huge, compressed, impetuous torrent, leaping 
 in creamy foam, boiling in creamy eddies, rioting in deep, 
 black chasms, roared and thundered over the whole in rapids 
 of the most tempestuous kind, leaping down to the ocean in 
 three grand, broad cataracts, the nearest of them not more than 
 40 feet from the crossing. Imagine the Moriston at the Falls, 
 four times as wide and fifty times as furious, walled in by preci- 
 pices, and with a miniature Niagara above and below, and you 
 have a feeble illustration of it. 
 
 Portions of two or three rocks only could be seen, and on 
 one of these, about 12 feet from the shore, a nude native, 
 beautifully tattooed, with a lasso in his hands, was standing 
 nearly up to his knees in foam ; and about a third of the way 
 from the other side, another native in deeper water, steadying 
 himself by a pole. A young woman on horseback, whose near 
 relative was dangerously ill at Hilo, was jammed under the 
 eliif, and the men were going to get her across. Deborah, to 
 my dismay, said that if she got safely over we would go too, as 
 these natives were very skilful. I asked if she thought her 
 husband would let her cross, and she said " No." I asked her 
 if she were frightened, and she said "Yes;" but she wished so 
 to get home, and her face was as pale as a brown face can be. 
 I only hope the man will prove worthy of her affectionate 
 devotion. 
 
 Here, though people say it is a most perilous gulch, I was 
 not afraid for her life or mine, with the amphibious natives to 
 help us ; but I was sorely afraid of being bruised, and scared, 
 and of breaking the horses' legs, and I said I would not cross, 
 but would sleep among the trees ; but the tumult drowned our 
 voices, though the Hawaiians by screeching could make them- 
 selves understood. The nearest man then approached the 
 shore, put the lasso round the nose of the woman's horse, and 
 dragged it into the torrent ; and it was exciting to see a horse 
 creeping from rock to rock in a cataract with alarming possi- 
 bilities in every direction. But beasts may well be bold, as 
 they have not " the foreknowledge of death." When the nearest 
 native had got the horse as far as he could, he threw the lasso 
 to the man who was steadying himself with the pole, and urged 
 the horse on. There was a deep chasm between the two into 
 
112 HAWAII. ' [letter XI. 
 
 which the animal fell, as he tried to leap from one rock to 
 another. I saw for a moment only a woman's head and 
 shoulders, a horse's head, a commotion of foam, a native 
 tugging at the lasso, and then a violent scramble on to a rock, 
 and a plunging and floundering through deep water to shore. 
 
 Then Deborah said she would go, that her horse was a better 
 and stronger one ; and the same process was repeated with the 
 same slip into the chasm, only with the variation that for a 
 second she went out of sight altogether. It was a terribly 
 interesting and exciting spectacle with sublime accompaniments. 
 Though I had no fear of absolute danger, yet -my mare was 
 tired, and I had made up my mind to remain on that side till 
 the flood abated ; but I could not make the natives understand 
 that I wished to turn, and while I was screaming " No, no," 
 and trying to withdraw my stiffened limbs from the stirrups, 
 the noose was put round the mare's nose, and she went in. It 
 was horrible to know that into the chasm as the others went 
 I too must go, and in the mare went with a blind plunge. 
 With violent plunging and struggling she got her fore feet on 
 the rock, but just as she was jumping up to it altogether she 
 slipped back snorting into the hole, and the water went over 
 my eyes. I struck her with my spurs, the men screeched and 
 shouted, the hinder man jumped in, they both tugged at the 
 lasso, and slipping and struggling, the animal gained the rock, 
 and plunged through deep water to shore, the water covering 
 that rock with a rush of foam, being fully two feet deep. 
 
 Kaluna came up just after we had crossed, undressed, made 
 his clothes into a bundle, and got over amphibiously, leaping, 
 swimming, and diving, looking like a water-god, with the horse 
 and mule after him. His dexterity was a beautiful sight ; but 
 on looking back I wondered how human beings ever devised 
 to cross such a flood. We got over just in time. Some 
 travellers who reached Laupahoehoe shortly after we left, more 
 experienced than we were, suffered a two days' detention rather 
 than incur a similar risk. Several mules and horses, they say, 
 have had their legs broken in crossing this gulch by getting 
 them fast between the rocks. 
 
 Shortly after this, Deborah uttered a delighted exclamation, 
 and her pretty face lighted up, and I saw her husband spurring 
 along the top of the ne.xt/a/z, and he presently joined us, and 
 I exchanged my tired mare for his fresh, powerful horse. He 
 knew that a freshet was imminent, and believing that we should 
 never leave Laupahoehoe, he was setting off, provided with 
 
LETTER XI.] THE PERIL OVER. 113 
 
 tackle for getting himself across, intending to join us, and 
 remain with us till the rivers fell. The presence of a respon- 
 sible white man seemed a rest at once. We had several more 
 gulches to cross, but none of them were dangerous ; and we 
 rode the last seven miles at a great pace, though the mire and 
 water were often up to the horses' knees, and came up to 
 Onomea at full gallop, with spirit and strength enough for 
 riding other twenty miles. Dry clothing, hot baths, and good 
 tea followed delightfully upon our drowning ride. I remained 
 over Sunday at Onomea, and yesterday rode here with a native 
 in heavy rain, and received a warm welcome. Our adventures 
 are a nine days' wonder, and every one says that if we had had 
 a white man or an experienced native with us, we should never 
 have been allowed to attempt the perilous ride. I feel very 
 thankful that we are living to tell of it, and that Deborah is 
 
 not only not worse but considerably better. E will expect 
 
 some reflections ; but none were suggested at the time, and I 
 will not now invent what I ought to have thought and felt. 
 
 Due honour must be given to the Mexican saddle. Had 
 I been on a side-saddle, and encumbered with a riding-habit, 
 I should have been drowned. I feel able now to ride anywhere 
 and any distance upon it, while Miss Karpe, who began by 
 being much stronger than I was, has never recovered from the 
 volcano ride, and seems quite ill. 
 
 Last night Kilauea must have been tremendously active. At 
 ten P.M., from the upper verandah, we saw the whole western 
 sky fitfully illuminated, and the glare reddened the snow which 
 is lying on Mauna Loa, an eff'ect of fire on ice which can rarely 
 be seen. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XII. 
 
 " The High Priest of Pele " — Missionary Hardships — A Renowned Baptism 
 — Tlie "Revival" — A Tidal Wave — Kapiolani's Heroism — Lava 
 Flows and Earthquakes. 
 
 HiLO, February 22. 
 
 My sojourn here is very pleasant, owing to the kindness and 
 sociability of the people. I think that so much culture and 
 such a variety of refined tastes can seldom be found in so small 
 a community. There have been pleasant little gatherings for 
 sewing, while some gentlemen read aloud, fern-printing in the 
 verandah, microscopic and musical evenings, little social 
 luncheons, and on Sunday evenings what is colloquially- 
 termed " a sing," at this most social house. One of the things- 
 I have specially enjoyed has been spending an afternoon at the- 
 Rev. Titus Coan's. He is not only one of the most venerable 
 of the remaining missionaries, but such an authority on the 
 Hawaiian volcanoes as to entitle him to be designated " the 
 high-priest of Pdld ! " In his modest, quiet way he told thrilling 
 stories of the old missionary days. 
 
 As you know,, the islands cast off idolatry in 1819, but it was- 
 not till 1835 that Mr. and Mrs. Coan arrived in Hilo, where 
 Mr. and Mrs. Lyman had been toiling for some time, and had 
 produced a marked change on the social condition of the 
 people. Mr. C. was a fervid speaker, and physically very robust, 
 and when he had mastered the language, he undertook much 
 of the travelling and touring, and Mr. Lyman took charge of 
 the home mission station, and the boarding and industrial 
 school which he still indefatigably superintends. There were 
 15,000 natives then in the district, aVid its extremes were loo 
 miles apart. Portions of it could only be reached with peril to 
 limbs and even life. Horses were only regarded as wild animals 
 in those days, and Mr. C. traversed on foot the district I have 
 just returned from, not lazily riding down the gulch sides, but 
 climbing, or being let down by ropes from tree to tree, and 
 
LETTER XII.] A GREA7 BAPTISM. 115 
 
 from crag to crag. In times of rain like last week, when it was 
 impossible to ford the rivers, he sometimes swam across, with 
 a rope to prevent him from being carried away, through others 
 he rode on the broad shoulders of a willing native, while a 
 company of strong men locked hands and stretched themselves 
 across the torrent, between him and the cataract, to prevent 
 him from being carried over in case his bearer should fall. 
 This experience was often repeated three or four times a day. 
 His smallest weekly number of sermons was six or seven, and 
 the largest from twenty-five to thirty. He often travelled in 
 drowning rain, crossed dangerous streams, climbed slippery 
 precipices, and frequently preajched in wind and rain with all 
 his garments saturated. On every occasion he received aid 
 from the natives, who were so kind and friendly, that when he 
 used to sleep in the woods at night, he hung his watch on a 
 tree, knowing that it was perfectly safe from pilfering or curious 
 touch. Indeed the Christian teachers seem to have been re- 
 garded as tabu. ' 
 
 Before the end of that year, Mr. Coan had made the circuit 
 of Hawaii, a foot and canoe trip of 300 miles, in which he 
 nearly suffered canoe-wreck twice. In all, he has admitted 
 into the Christian church by baptism, 12,000 persons, besides 
 4,000 infants. He gave a most interesting account of one 
 great baptism. The greatest care was previously taken in select- 
 ing, teaching, watching, and examining the candidates. Those 
 from the distant villages came and spent several months here 
 for preliminary instruction. Many of these were converts of 
 two years' standing, a larger class had been on the list for more 
 than a year, and a smaller one for a lesser period. The 
 accepted candidates were announced by name several weeks 
 previously, and friends and enemies everywhere were called 
 upon to testify all that they knew about them. On the first 
 Sunday in July, 1838, 1705 persons, formerly heathens, were 
 baptised. They were seated close together on the earth-floor 
 in rows, with just space between for one to walk, and Mr. 
 Lyman and Mr. Coan, passing through them, sprinkled every 
 bowed head, after which Mr. C. admitted the weeping hundreds 
 into the fellowship of the Universal Church by pronouncing 
 the words, " I baptise you all in the Name of the Father, and 
 of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost." After this, 2400 converts 
 received the Holy Communion. I give Mr. C.'s own words 
 concerning those who partook of it, " who truly and earnestly 
 repented of their sins, and steadfastly purposed to lead new 
 
ii6 HAWAII. [letter XII. 
 
 lives." "The old and decrepit, the lame, the blind, the 
 maimed, the withered, the paralytic, and those afflicted with 
 divers diseases and torments ; those with eyes, noses, lips, and 
 limbs consumed ; with features distorted, and figures depraved 
 and loathsome : these came hobbling upon their staves, or led 
 and borne by others to the table of the Lord. Among the 
 throng you would have seen the hoary priest of idolatry, with 
 hands but recently washed from the blood of human victims, 
 together with thieves, adulterers, highway robbers, murderers, 
 and mothers whose hands reeked with the blood of their own 
 children. It seemed like one_ of the crowda the Saviour 
 gathered, and over which he pronounced the words of healing." 
 
 Though the people cast off idolatry in 1819 before the 
 arrival of the missionaries, they were very indifferent to Chris- 
 tian teaching until 1837, the year before the great baptism, 
 when a great religious stir began, and for four years affected all 
 the islands. I wish you could have heard Mr. C. and Mrs. 
 Lyman tell of that stirring time, when nearly all the large 
 population of the Hilo and Puna districts turned out to hear 
 the Gospel, and how the young people went up into the moun- 
 tains and carried the news of the love of God and the good 
 life to come to the sick and old, who were afterwards baptized, 
 when often the only water which could be obtained for the 
 rite was that which dripped sparingly from the roofs of caves. 
 The Hawaiian notions of a future state, where any existed, 
 were peculiarly vague and dismal, and Mr. EUis says that the 
 greater part of the people seemed to regard the tidings of ora 
 loa ia Jesu (endless life by Jesus) as the most joyful news they 
 had ever heard, " breaking upon them," to use their own phrase, 
 " like light in the morning." " Will my spirit never die, and 
 can this poor weak body live again ? " an old chieftess exclaimed, 
 and this delighted surprise seemed the general feeling of the 
 natives. From less difficult distances the sick and lame were 
 brought on litters and on the backs of men, and the infirm 
 often crawled to the trail by which the missionary was to 
 pass, that they might hear of this good news which had come 
 to Hawaii-nei. 
 
 There were but these two preachers for the 15,000 people 
 scattered for 100 miles, who were all ravenous to hear, and 
 impatient of the tardy modes of evangelization. " If we die," 
 said they, " let us die in the light." So this strange thing fell 
 out, that whole villages from miles away gathered to the mission 
 station. Two-thirds of the population of the district came in, 
 
LETTER XII.] A PROLONGED CAMP MEETING. 117 
 
 and within the radius of a mile the grass and banana houses 
 clustered as thick as they could stand. Beautiful Hilo in a 
 short time swelled from a population of 1000 to 10,000 ; and 
 at any hour of the day or night the sound of the conch shell 
 brought together from 3000 to 6000 worshippers. This vast 
 camp-meeting continued for two years, but there was no dis- 
 order, and a decent quiet ruled throughout the strangely ex- 
 temporized city. A new morality, a new social order, new 
 notions on nearly all subjects, had to be inculcated as well as 
 a new religion. Mrs. C. and Mrs. L. daily assembled the 
 women and children, and taught them the habits and industries 
 of civilization, to attend to their persons, to braid hats, and to 
 wear and make clothes. 
 
 During this time, on November 7, 1837, one of the striking 
 phenomena which make the islands remarkable occurred. The 
 crescent sand-beach, said to be the most beautiful in the Pacific, 
 the fringe of palms, the far-reaching groves behind, and the 
 great ocean, slept in summer calm, as they sleep to-day. Four 
 sermons, as usual, had been preached to audiences of 6000 
 people. There had been a funeral, the natives say, though 
 Mr. C. does not remember it, and his text had been " Be ye 
 also ready," and larger throngs than usual had followed the 
 preachers to their homes. The fatiguing day was over, the 
 natives were singing hymns in the still evening air, and Mr. C. 
 "had gathered his family for prayers" in the very room in 
 which he told me this story, when they were startled by " a 
 sound as if a heavy mountain had fallen on the beach." There 
 was at once a fearful cry, wailing, and indescribable confusion. 
 The quiet ocean had risen in a moment in a gigantic wave, 
 which, rushing in with the speed of a racehorse, and uplifting 
 itself over the shore, swept everything into promiscuous ruin ; 
 men, women, children, dogs, houses, food, canoes, clothing, 
 floated wildly on the flood, and hundreds of people were 
 struggling among the billows in the midst of their earthly all. 
 Some were dashed on the shore, some were saved by friends 
 who hurried to their aid, some were carried out to sea by the 
 retiring water, and some stout swimmers sank exhausted ; yet . 
 the loss of life was not nearly so great as it would have been 
 among a less amphibious people. Mr. C. described the roaring 
 of the ocean, the cries of distress, the shrieks of the perishing, 
 the frantic rush of hundreds to the shore, and the desolation of 
 the whole neighbourhood of the beach, as forming a scene of 
 the most thrilling and awful interest. 
 
iiS HAWAII. [letter xn. 
 
 You will remember that I wrote from Kilauea regarding the 
 terror which the Goddess of the Crater inspired, and her high- 
 priest was necessarily a very awful personage. The particular 
 high-priest of whom Mr. Coan told me was 6 feet 5 inches in 
 height, and his sister, who was co-ordinate with him in authority, 
 had a scarcely inferior altitude. His chief business was to kec]) 
 Pdld appeased. He lived on the shore, but often went up to 
 Kilauea with sacrifices. If a human victim were needed, he 
 had only to point to a native, and the unfortunate wretch was 
 at once strangled. He was not only the embodiment of heathen 
 piety, but of heathen crime. Robbery was his pastime. His 
 temper was so fierce and so uncurbed that no native dared even 
 to tread on his shadow. More than once he had killed a man 
 for the sake of food and clothes not worth fifty cents. He was 
 a thoroughly wicked savage. Curiosity attracted him into one 
 of the Hilo meetings, and the bad giant fell under the resistless, 
 mysterious influence which was metamorphosing thousands of 
 Hawaiians. " I have been deceived," he said, " I have deceived 
 others, I have lived in darkness, and did not know the true 
 God. I worshipped what was no God. I renounce it all. The 
 true God has come. He speaks. I bow down to Him. I 
 wish to be His son." The priestess, his sister, came soon after- 
 wards, and they remained here several months for instruction. 
 They were then about seventy years old, but they imbibed 
 the New Testament spirit so thoroughly that they became as 
 gentle, loving, and quiet as little children. After a long proba- 
 tionary period they were baptized, and after several years of 
 pious and lowly living; they passed gently and trustfully away. 
 
 The old church which was the scene of these earlier assem- 
 blages came down with a crash after a night of heavy rain, the 
 large timbers, which were planted in the moist earth after the 
 fashion of the country to support the framework, having become 
 too rotten to bear the weight of the saturated thatch. Without 
 a day's loss of time the people began a new church. All were 
 volunteers, some to remove from the wreck of the old building 
 such timbers as might still be of service ; some to quarry stone 
 for a foundation, an extravagance never before dreamed of by 
 an islander; some to bring sand in gourd-shells upon their 
 heads, or laboriously gathered in the folds of bark-cloth aprons ; 
 some to bring lime from the coral reefs 20 feet underwater; 
 whilst the majority hurried to the forest telt, miles away on 
 the mountain side, to fell the straightest and tallest trees. Then 
 50 or 100 men (for in that day horses and oxen were known 
 
LETTER XII.] KAPIOLANI. 
 
 119 
 
 only as wild beasts of the wilderness) attached hawsers to the 
 butt ends of logs, and dragged them away through bush and 
 brake, through broken ground and river beds, till they deposited 
 them on the site of the new church. The wild, monotonous 
 chant, as the men hauled in the timber, lives in the memories 
 of the missionaries' children, who say that it seemed to them 
 as if the preparations for Solomon's temple could not have ex- 
 ceeded the accumulations of the islanders ! 
 
 I think that the greater number of the converts of those 
 four years must have died ere this. In 1867 the old church at 
 Hilo was divided into seven congregations, six of them with 
 native pastors. To meet the wants of the widely-scattered 
 people fifteen churches have been built, holding from 500 up 
 to 1000. The present Hilo church, a very pretty wooden one, 
 cost about $14,000. All these have been erected mainly by 
 native money and labour. Probably the native Christians on 
 Hawaii are not much better or worse than Christian com- 
 munities elsewhere, but they seem a singularly generous people. 
 Besides liberally sustaining their own clergy, the Hilo Christians 
 have contributed altogether $100,000 for religious purposes. 
 Mr. Coan's native congregation, sorely dwindled as it is, raises 
 over $1200 annually for foreign missions ; and twelve of its 
 members have gone as missionaries to the islands of Southern 
 Polynesia. 
 
 Poor people ! It would be unfair to judge of them as we 
 may legitimately be judged of, who inherit the influences of 
 ten centuries of Christianity. They have only just emerged 
 from a bloody and sensual heathenism, and to the instincts 
 and volatility of these dark Pol3Tiesian races, the restraining 
 influences of the Gospel are far more severe than to our cold, 
 unimpulsive northern natures. The greatest of their disadvan- 
 tages has been that some of the vilest of the whites who roam 
 the Pacific had settled on the islands before the arrival of the 
 Christian teachers, dragging the people down to even lower 
 depths of depravity than those of heathenism, and that there 
 are still resident foreigners who corrupt and destroy them. 
 
 I must tell you a story which the venerable Mrs. Lyman 
 told me yesterday. In 1825, five years after the first mis- 
 sionaries landed, Kapiolani, a female alii of high rank, while 
 living at Kaiwaaloa (where Captain Cook was murdered), 
 became a Christian. Grieving for her people, most of whom 
 still feared to anger Pel^, she announced that it was her inten- 
 tion to visit Kilauea, and dare the fearful goddess to do her 
 
I20 HAWAII. [letter xir. 
 
 worst. Her husband and many others tried to dissuade her, 
 but she was resolute, and taking with her a large retinue, she 
 took a journey of one hundred miles, mostly on foot, over the 
 rugged lava, till she arrived near the crater. There a priestess 
 of Pdld met her, threatened her with the displeasure of the 
 goddess if she persisted in her hostile errand, and prophesied 
 that she and her followers would perish miserably. Then, as 
 now, ohelo berries grew profusely round the terminal wall of 
 Kilauea, and there, as elsewhere, were sacred to P^ld, no one 
 daring to eat of them till he had first offered some of them to 
 the divinity. It was usual on arriving at the crater to break a 
 branch covered with berries, and turning the face to the pit 
 of fire, to throw half the branch over the precipice, saying, 
 "Pdl^, here are your ohdos. I offer some to you, some I also 
 eat," after which the natives partook of them freely. Kapiolani 
 gathered and eat them without this formula, after which she and 
 her company of eighty persons descended to the black edge of 
 Hale-mau-mau. There, in full view of the fiery pit, she thus 
 addressed her followers : — '■^Jehovah is my God. He kindled 
 these fires. I fear not P'elL If I ferish by the anger of Pkle, 
 then you may fear the power of P'd'e ; but if I trust in Jehovah, 
 and he should save me fro?n the wrath of Pele, when I break 
 through her tabtis, then you must fear and serve the Lord 
 Jehovah. All the gods of Hawaii are vain ! Great is 
 Jehovah's goodness in sending teachers to turn us from these 
 vanities to the living God and the way of righteousness i " Then 
 they sang a hymn. I can fancy the strange procession winding 
 its backward way over the cracked, hot, lava sea, the robust 
 belief of the princess hardly sustaining the limping faith of her 
 followers, whose fears would not be laid to rest until they 
 reached the crater's rim without any signs of the pursuit of an 
 avenging deity. It was more sublime than Elijah's appeal on 
 the soft, green slopes of Carmel, but the popular belief in the 
 Goddess of the Volcano survived this flagrant instance of her 
 incapacity, and only died out many years afterwards. 
 
 Besides these interesting reminiscences, I have been hearing 
 most thrilling stories from Mrs. Lyman and Mr. Coan of 
 volcanoes, earthquakes, and tidal waves. Told by eye-wit- 
 nesses, and on the very spot where the incidents occurred, they 
 make a profound, and, I fear, an incommunicable impression. 
 I look on these venerable people as I should on people who 
 had seen the Deluge, or the burial of Pompeii, and wonder that 
 they eat and dress and live like other mortals ! For they have 
 
LETTER XII.] A LAVA FLOW. 121 
 
 felt the perpetual shudder of earthquakes, and their eyes, which 
 look so calm and kind, have seen the inflowing of huge tidal 
 waves, the dull red glow of lava streams, and the leaping of fire 
 cataracts into deep-lying pools, burning them dry in a night 
 time. There were years in which there was no day in which 
 the smoke of underground furnaces was out of their sight, or 
 night which was not lurid with flames. Once they traced a 
 river of lava burrowing its way 1500 feet below the surface, 
 and saw it emerge, break over a precipice, and fall hissing 
 into the ocean. Once from their highest mountain a pillar of 
 fire 200 feet in diameter lifted itself for three weeks 1000 feet 
 into the air, making night day, for a hundred miles round, and 
 leaving as its monument a cone a mile in circumference. We 
 see a clothed and finished earth ; they see the building of an 
 island, layer on layer, hill on hill, the naked and deformed 
 product of the melting, forging, and welding, which go on 
 perpetually in the crater of Kilauea. 
 
 I could fill many sheets with what I have heard, but must 
 content myself with telling you very little. In 1855 the fourth 
 recorded eruption of Mauna Loa occurred. The lava flowed 
 directly Hilo-wards, and for several months, spreading through 
 the dense forests which belt the mountain, crept slowly shore- 
 wards, threatening this beautiful portion of Hawaii with the 
 fate of the Cities of the Plain. Mr. C. made several visits to 
 the eruption, and on each return the simple people asked him 
 how much longer it would last. For five months they watched 
 the inundation, which came a little nearer every day. Should 
 they fly or not ? Would their beautiful homes become a waste 
 of jagged lava and black sand, like the neighbouring district of 
 Puna, once as fair as Hilo?" Such questions suggested them- 
 selves as they nightly watched the nearing glare, till the fiery 
 waves met with obstacles which piled them up in hillocks, 
 eight miles from Hilo, and the suspense was over. Only 
 gigantic causes can account for the gigantic phenomena of this 
 lava-flow. The eruption travelled forty miles in a straight line, 
 or sixty, including sinuosities. It was from one to three miles 
 broad, and from five to two hundred feet deep, according to 
 the contours of the mountain slopes over which it flowed. It 
 lasted for thirteen months, pouring out a torrent of lava which 
 covered nearly 300 square miles of land, and whose volume 
 was estimated at thirty-eight thousand millions of cubic feet ! 
 In 1859 lava fountains 400 feet in height, and with a nearly 
 equal diameter, played on the summit of Mauna Loa. This 
 
122 HA WAIT. [letter xii. 
 
 eruption ran fifty miles to the sea in eight days, but the flow- 
 lasted much longer, and added a new promontory to Hawaii. 
 
 These magnificent overflows, however threatening, had done 
 little damage to cultivated regions, and none to human life ; 
 and people began to think that the volcano was reformed. 
 But in 1868 terrors occurred which are without precedent in 
 island history. While Mrs. L. was giving me the narrative in 
 her graphic but simple way, and the sweet wind rustled through 
 the palms, and brought the rich scent of the ginger plant into 
 the shaded room, she seemed to be telling me a tale of another 
 world. On March 27, five years ago, a series of earthquakes 
 began, and became more startling from day to day; until their 
 succession became so rapid that " the island quivered like the 
 lid of a boiling pot nearly all the time between the heavier 
 shocks. The trembling was like that of a ship struck by a 
 heavy wave." Then the terminal crater of Mauna Loa (Mo- 
 kuaweoweo) sent up columns of smoke, steam, and red light, 
 and it was shortly seen that the southern slope of its dome had 
 been rent, and that four separate rivers of molten stone were 
 pouring out of as many rents, and were flowing down the 
 mountain sides in diverging lines. Suddenly the rivers were 
 arrested, and the blue mountain dome appeared against the 
 still, blue sky without an indication of fire, steam, or smoke. 
 Hilo was much agitated by the sudden lull. No one was 
 deceived into security, for it was certain that the fires must 
 make themselves felt. 
 
 The earthquakes became nearly continuous; scarcely an 
 appreciable interval occurred between them ; " the throbbing, 
 jerking, and quivering motions grew more positive, intense, 
 and sharp; they were vertical, rotary, lateral, and undu- 
 lating,"' producing nausea, vertigo, and vomiting. Late in the 
 .afternoon of a lovely day, April 2, the climax came. " The 
 crust of the earth rose and sank like the sea in a storm." 
 Rocks were rent, mountains fell, buildings and their contents 
 ■were shattered, trees swayed like reeds, animals were scared, 
 and ran about demented; men thought the judgment had 
 come. The earth opened in thousands of places, the roads in 
 Hilo cracked open, horses and their riders, and people afoot 
 were thrown violently to the ground; "it seemed as if the 
 rocky ribs of the mountains, and the granite walls and pillars 
 of the earth were breaking up." At Kilauea the shocks were 
 as frequent as the ticking of a watch. In Kau, south of Hilo, 
 they counted 300 shocks on that direful day ; and Mrs. L.'s 
 
LETTER XII.] A DIREFUL DAY. 123 
 
 son, who was in that district at the time, says that the earth 
 swayed to and fro, north and south, then east and west, then 
 round and round, up and down, in every imaginable direction, 
 everything crashing about them, " and the trees thrashing as if 
 torn by a strong rushing wind." He and others sat on the 
 ground bracing themselves with hands and feet to avoid being 
 rolled over. They saw an avalanche of red earth, which they 
 supposed to be lava, burst from the mountain side, throwing 
 rocks high into the air, swallowing up houses, trees, men, and 
 animals ; and travelling three miles in as many minutes, 
 burying a hamlet, with thirty- one inhabitants and 500 head of 
 cattle. The people of the valleys fled to the mountains, which 
 themselves were splitting in all directions, and collecting on an 
 elevated spot, with the earth reeling under them, they spent 
 the night of April 2 in prayer and singing. Looking towards 
 the shore, they saw it sink, and at the same moment, a 
 wave, whose height was estimated at from forty to sixty feet, 
 hurled itself upon the coast, and receded five times, destroying 
 whole villages, and even strong stone houses, with a touch, and 
 engulfing for ever forty-six people who had lingered too near 
 the shore. 
 
 Still the earthquakes continued, and still the volcano gave no 
 sign. The nerves of many people gave way in these fearful 
 days. Some tried to get away to Honolulu, others kept 
 horses saddled on which to fly, they knew not whither. The 
 hourly question was, " What of the volcano ? " People put 
 their ears to the quivering ground, and heard, or thought they 
 heard, the surgings of the imprisoned lava sea rending its way 
 among the ribs of the earth. 
 
 Five days after the destructive earthquake of April 2, the 
 ground south of Hilo burst open with a crash and roar which 
 at once answered all questions concerning the volcano. The 
 molten river, after travelling underground for twenty miles, 
 emerged through a fissure two miles in length with a tre- 
 mendous force and volume. It was in a pleasant pastoral 
 region, supposed to be at rest for ever, at the top of a grass- 
 covered plateau sprinkled with native and foreign houses, and 
 rich in herds of cattle. Four huge fountains boiled up with 
 terrific fury, throwing crimson lava, and rocks weighing many 
 tons, to a height of from 500 to 1000 feet. Mr. Whitney, of 
 Honolulu, who was near the spot, says : — " From these great 
 fountains to the sea flowed a rapid stream of red lava, rolling, 
 rushing, and tumbling, like a swollen river, bearing along in its 
 
124 HAWAII. [letter XII. 
 
 current large rocks that made the lava foam as it dashed down 
 the precipice and through the valley into the sea, surging and 
 roaring throughout its length like a cataract, with a power and 
 fury perfectly indescribable. It was nothing else than a rive7- 
 of fire from 200 to 800 feet wide and twenty deep, with a speed 
 varying from ten to twenty five miles an hour I " This same 
 intelligent observer noticed as a peculiarity of the spouting 
 that the lava was ejected by a rotary motion, and in the air 
 both lava and stones always rotated towards the south. At 
 Kilauea I noticed that the lava was ejected in a southerly 
 direction. From the scene of these fire fountains, whose 
 united length was about a mile, the river in its rush to the sea 
 divided itself into four streams, between which it shut up men 
 and beasts. One stream hurried to the sea in four hours, but 
 the others took two days to travel ten miles. The aggregate 
 width was a mile and a half Where it entered the sea it 
 extended the coast-line half a mile, but this worthless accession 
 to Hawaiian acreage was dearly purchased by the loss, for 
 ages at least, of 4000 acres of valuable pasture land, and a 
 much larger quantity of magnificent forest. The whole south- 
 east shore of Hawaii sank from four to six feet, which in- 
 volved the destraction of several hamlets and the beautiful 
 fringe of cocoa-nut trees. Though the region was very thinly 
 peopled, 200 houses and 100 lives were sacrificed in this week 
 of horrors, and from the reeling mountains, the uplifted ocean, 
 and the fiery inundation, the terrified survivors fled into Hilo, 
 each with a tale of woe and loss. The number of shocks of 
 earthquake counted was 2000 in two weeks, an average of 140 
 a day ; but on the other side of the island the number was 
 incalculable. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XIII. 
 
 A Royal Landing — The Royal Procession — Puna Woods — Lunalilo^Tiie 
 Hookupu — Loyal Enthusiasm — The Gift-bearers — The Gifts — The 
 King's Speech. 
 
 HiLO, Hawaii, February. 
 
 The quiet, dreamy, afternoon existence of Hilo is disturbed. 
 Two days ago an official intimation was received that the 
 American Government had placed the U.S. ironclad "Benicia" 
 at the disposal of King Lunalilo for a cruise round Hawaii, and 
 that he would arrive here the following morning with Admiral 
 Pennock and the U. S. generals Scholiield and Alexander. 
 
 Now this monarchy is no longer an old-time chieftaincy, 
 made up of calabashes and poi, feather-cloaks, kahilis, and a 
 little fuss, but has a civilized constitutional king, the equal 
 of Queen Victoria, a civil list, &c., and though Lunalilo comes 
 here trjdng to be a private individual and to rest from Hookupus, 
 state entertainments, and privy councils, he brings with him a 
 royal chamberlain and an adjutant-general in attendance. So 
 the good people of Hilo have been decorating their houses 
 anew with ferns and iiowers, furbishing up their clothes, and 
 holding mysterious consultations regarding etiquette and enter- 
 tainments, just as if royalty were about to drop down in similar 
 fashion on Bude or Tobermory. There were amusing attempts 
 to bring about a practical reconciliation between the free-and 
 easiness of Republican notions and the respect due to a sove- 
 reign who reigns by " the will of the people " as well as by 
 " the grace of God," but eventually the tact of the king made 
 everything go smoothly. 
 
 At eight yesterday morning the " Benicia " anchored inside 
 the reef, and Hilo blossomed into a most striking display of 
 bunting; the Hawaiian colours, eight blue, red and white 
 stripes, with the English union in the corner, and the flaunting 
 flag of America being predominant. My heart warmed towards 
 
126 HAWAII. [letter XIII. 
 
 our own flag as the soft breeze lifted its rich folds among the 
 glories of the tropical trees. Indeed, bunting to my mind 
 never looked so well as when floating and fainting among cocoa- 
 nut palms and all the shining greenery of Hilo, in the sunshine 
 of a radiant morning. It was bright and warm, but the cool 
 bulk of Mauna Kea, literally covered with snow, looked down 
 as winter upon summer. Natives galloped in from all quarters, 
 brightly dressed, wreathed, and garlanded, delighted in their 
 hearts at the attention paid to their sovereign by a great foreign 
 power, though they had been very averse to this journey, from 
 a strange but prevalent idea that once on board a U. S. ship 
 the king would be kidnapped and conveyed to America. 
 
 Lieut. -Governor Lyman and Mr. Severance, the sheriff, went 
 out to the " Benicia," and the king landed at ten o'clock, being 
 "graciously pleased" to accept the Governor's house as his 
 residence during his visit. The American officers, naval and 
 military, were received by the same loud, hospitable old whaling 
 captain who entertained the Duke of Edinburgh some years 
 ago here, and to judge from the hilarious sounds which came 
 down the road from his house, they had what they would call 
 " a good time." I had seen Lunalilo in state at Honolulu, but 
 it was much more interesting to see him here, and. this royalty 
 is interesting in itself, as a thing on sufferance, standing be- 
 tween this helpless nationality and its absorption by America. 
 The king is a very fine-looking man of thirty-eight, tall, well 
 formed, broad-chested, with his head well set on his shoulders, 
 and his feet and hands small. His appearance is decidedly 
 commanding and aristocratic : he is certainly handsome even 
 according to our notions. He has a fine open brow, significant 
 at once of brains and straightforwardness, a straight, propor- 
 tionate nose, and a good mouth. The slight tendency to Poly- 
 nesian overfulness about his lips is concealed by a well-shaped 
 moustache. He wears whiskers cut in the English fashion. 
 His eyes are large, dark-brown of course, and equally of course, 
 he has a superb set of teeth. Owing to a slight fulness of the 
 lower eyelid, which Queen Emma also has, his eyes have a 
 singularly melancholy expression, very alien, I believe, to his 
 character. He is remarkably gentlemanly looking, and has 
 the grace of movement which seems usual with Hawaiians. 
 When he landed he wore a dark morning suit and a black 
 felt hat. 
 
 As soon as he stepped on shore, the natives, who were in 
 crowds on the beach, cheered, yelled, and waved their hats 
 
o 
 ►J 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 z, 
 
 o 
 o 
 
LETTER xni.] ROYAL PROCESSION. 129 
 
 and handkerchiefs, and then a procession was formed, or rather 
 formed itself, to escort him to the governor's house. A rabble 
 of children ran in front, then came the king, over whom the 
 natives had thrown some beautiful garlands of o/n'a and maile 
 {Alyxia olivceformis), with the governor on one side and the 
 sheriff on the other, the chamberlain and adjutant-general 
 walking behind. Then a native staggering under the weight 
 of an enormous Hawaiian flag, the Hilo band, with my friend 
 Upa beating the big drum, and an irregular rabble (/. e. un- 
 organised crowd) of men, women, and children, going at a trot 
 to keep up with the king's rapid strides. The crowd was 
 unwilUng to disperse even when he entered the house, and he 
 came out and made a short speech, the gist of which was that 
 he was delighted to see his native subjects, and would hold a 
 reception for them on the ensuing Monday, when we shall see 
 a most interesting sight, a native crowd gathered from all 
 Southern Hawaii for a hookupu, an old custom, signifying the 
 bringing of gift-offerings to a king or chief 
 
 In the afternoon Dr. Wetmore and I rode to the beautiful 
 Puna woods on a botanising excursion. We were galloping 
 down to the beach round a sharp corner, when we had to pull 
 our horses almost on their haunches to avoid knocking over 
 the king, the American admiral, the captain of the " Benicia," 
 nine of their officers, and the two generals. When I saw the 
 politely veiled stare of the white men it occurred to me that 
 probably it was the first time that they had seen a white woman 
 riding cavalier fashion ! We had a delicious gallop over the 
 sands to the Waiakea river, which we crossed, and came upon 
 one of the vast lava-flows of ages since, over which we had to 
 ride carefully, as the pahoehoe lies in rivers, coils, tortuosities, 
 and holes partially concealed by a luxuriant growth of ferns 
 and convolvuli. The country is thickly sprinkled with cocoa- 
 nut and breadfruit trees, which merge into the dense, dark, 
 glorious forest, which tenderly hides out of sight hideous, 
 broken lava, on which one cannot venture six feet from the 
 track without the risk of breaking one's limbs. All these 
 tropical forests are absolutely impenetrable, except to axe and 
 billhook, and after a trail has been laboriously opened, it needs 
 to be cut once or twice a year, so rapid is the growth of 
 vegetation. This one, through the Puna woods, only admits 
 of one person at a time. It was really rapturously lovely. 
 Through the trees we saw the soft steel-blue of the summer 
 sky : not a leaf stirred, not a bird sang, a hush had fallen on 
 
130 HAWAII. [letter xiir. 
 
 insect life, the quiet was perfect, even the ring of our horses 
 hoofs on the lava was a discord. There was a slight coolness 
 in the air and a fresh mossy smell. It only required some 
 suggestion of decay, and the rustle of a fallen leaf now and 
 then, to make it an exact reproduction of a fine day in our 
 English October. The forest was enlivened by many natives 
 bound for Hilo, driving horses loaded with cocoanuts, bread- 
 fruit, live fowls, poi and kalo, while others with difficulty urged 
 garlanded pigs in the same direction, all as presents for the 
 king. We brought back some very scarce parasitic ferns. 
 
 Hilo, February 24. 
 
 I rode over by myself to Onomea on Saturday to get a little 
 rest from the excitements of Hilo. A gentleman lent me a 
 strong, showy mare to go out on, telling me that she was frisky 
 and must be held while I mounted ; but before my feet were 
 fairly in the stirrups, she shook herself from the Chinaman who 
 held her, and danced away. I rode her five miles before she 
 quieted down. She pranced, jumped, danced, and fretted on 
 the edge of precipices, was furious at the scow and fords, and 
 seemed demented with good spirits. Onomea looked glorious, 
 and its serenity was most refreshing. I rode into Hilo the 
 next day in time for morning service, and the mare, after a 
 good gallop, subsided into a staidness of demeanour befitting 
 the day. Just as I was leaving, they asked me to take the 
 news to the sheriff that a man had been killed a few hours 
 before. He was riding into Hilo with a child behind him, and 
 they went over by no means one of the worst of the palis. 
 The man and horse were killed, but the child was unhurt, and 
 his wailing among the deep ferns attracted the attention of 
 passers-by to the disaster. The natives ride over these dan- 
 gerous palis so carelessly, and on such tired, starved horses, 
 that accidents are not infrequent. Hilo had never looked 
 so lovely to me as in the pure, bright calm of this Sunday 
 morning. 
 
 The verandahs of all the native houses were crowded with 
 strangers, who had come in to share in the jubilations attending 
 the king's visit. At the risk of emulating "Jenkins," or the 
 " Court Newsman," I must tell you that Lunalilo, who is by 
 no means an habitual church-goer, attended Mr. Coan's native 
 church in the morning, and the foreign church at night, when 
 the choir sang a very fine anthem. I don't wish to write about 
 
LETTER xili.] ROYAL AMIABILITY. 131 
 
 his faults, which have doubtless been rumoured in the English 
 papers. It is hoped that his new responsibilities will assist 
 him to conquer them, else I fear he may go the way of several 
 of the Hawaiian kings. He has begun his reign with marked 
 good sense in selecting as his advisers confessedly the best 
 men in his kingdom, and all his public actions since his election 
 have shown both tact and good feeling. If sons, as is often 
 asserted, take their intellects from their mothers, he should be 
 decidedly superior, for his mother, Kekauluohi, a chieftainess 
 of the highest rank, and one of the queens of Kamehameha II., 
 who died in London, was in 1839 chosen for her abilities by 
 Kamehameha III., as his kuhina nut, or premier, an officer 
 recognised under the old system of Hawaiian government as 
 second only in authority to the king, and without whose signa- 
 ture even his act was not legal. As Kaahumanu II. she 
 continued to hold this important position until her death in 
 
 1845- 
 
 But the present king does not come of the direct line of the 
 Hawaiian kings, but of a far older family. His father is a 
 commoner, but Hawaiian rank is inherited through the mother. 
 He received a good English education at the school which the 
 missionaries established for the sons of chiefs, and was noted 
 as a very bright scholar, with an early developed taste for 
 literature and poetry. His disposition is said to be most 
 amiable and genial, and his affability endeared him especially 
 to his own countrymen, by whom he was called alii lokomaikai, 
 " the kind chief" In spite of his high rank, which gave him 
 precedence of all others on the islands, he was ignored by two 
 previous governments, and often complained that he was never 
 allowed any opportunity of becoming acquainted with public 
 affairs, or of learning whether he possessed any capacity for 
 business. Thus, without experience, but with noble and 
 liberal instincts, and the highest and most patriotic aspirations 
 for the welfare and improvement of his " weak little kingdom," 
 he was unexpectedly called to the throne about three months 
 ago, amidst such an enthusiasm as had never before been 
 witnessed on Hawaii-nei, as the unanimous choice of the 
 people. He called on Mr. Coan the day of his arrival ; and 
 when the flute band of Mr. Lyman's school serenaded him, he 
 made the youths a kind address, in which he said he had been 
 taught as they were, and hoped hereafter to profit by the in- 
 struction he had received. 
 
 This has been a great day in Hilo. The old native custom 
 
132 HA WAIL [letter xiii. 
 
 of hookupu was revived, and it has been a most interesting 
 spectacle. I don't think I ever enjoyed sight-seeing so much. 
 The weather has been splendid, which was most fortunate, for 
 many of the natives came in from distances of from sixty to 
 eighty miles. From early daylight they trooped in on their 
 half broken steeds, and by ten o'clock there were fully a thou- 
 sand horses tethered on the grass by the sea. Almost every 
 house displayed flags, and the court-house, where the reception 
 was to take place, was most tastefully decorated. It is a very 
 pretty two-storied frame building, with deep double verandahs, 
 and stands on a large lawn of fine mainienie grass,* with roads 
 on three sides. Long before ten, crowds had gathered outside 
 the low walls of the lawn, natives and foreigners galloped in all 
 directions, boats and canoes enlivened the bay, bands played, 
 and the foreigners, on this occasion rather a disregarded 
 minority, assembled in holiday dress in the upper verandah of 
 the court-house. Hawaiian flags on tall bamboos decorated 
 the little gateways which gave admission to the lawn, an 
 enormous standard on the government flagstaff could be seen 
 for miles, and the stars and stripes waved from the neighbouring 
 plantations and from several houses in Hilo. At ten punctually, 
 Lunalilo, Governor Lyman, the sheriff of Hawaii, the royal 
 chamberlain, and the adjutant-general, walked up to the court- 
 house, and the king took his place, standing in the lower 
 verandah with his suite about him. All the foreigners were 
 either on the upper balcony, or on the stairs leadmg to it, on 
 which, to get the best possible view of the spectacle, I stood 
 for three mortal hours. The attendant gentlemen were well 
 dressed, but wore "shocking bad hats;" and the king wore a 
 sort of shooting suit, a short brown cut-away coat, an ash- 
 coloured waistcoat and ash-coloured trousers with a blue stripe. 
 He stood bareheaded. He dressed in this style in order that the 
 natives might attend the reception in every-day dress, and not 
 run the risk of spoiUng their best clothes by Hilo torrents. 
 The dress of the king and his attendants was almost concealed 
 by wreaths of ohia blossoms and festoons oimaile, some of 
 them two yards long, which had been thrown over them, and 
 which bestowed a fantastic glamour on the otherwise prosaic 
 inelegance of their European dress. But indeed the spectacle, 
 as a whole, was altogether poetical, as it was an ebullition of 
 natural, national, human feeling, in which the heart had the 
 
 * Cynodon Dactylon(?) 
 
LETTER xili.] AN ENTHUSIASTIC RECEPTION. 133 
 
 first place. I very soon ceased to notice the incongruous 
 elements, which were supplied chiefly by the Americans pre- 
 sent. There were RepubHcans by birth and nature, destitute 
 of traditions of loyalty or reverence for aught on earth ; who 
 bore on their faces not only republicanism, but that quint- 
 essence of puritan repubHcanism which hails from New England ; 
 and these were subjects of a foreign king, nay, several were 
 office-holders who had taken the oath of allegiance, and from 
 whose lips "His Majesty, Your Majesty," flowed far more 
 copiously than from ours which are " to the manner bom." 
 
 On the king's appearance, the cheering was tremendous, — 
 regular British cheering, well led, succeeded by that which is 
 not British, " three cheers and a tiger," but it was " Hi, hi, hi, 
 huUah ! " Every hat was off, every handkerchief in air, tears 
 in many eyes, enthusiasm universal, for the people were come 
 to welcome the king of their choice ; the prospective restorer 
 of the Constitution "trampled upon" by Kamehameha V., 
 " the kind chief," who was making them welcome to his pre- 
 sence after tlae fashion of their old feudal lords. When the 
 cheering had subsided, the eighty boys of Missionary Lyman's 
 School, who, dressed in white linen with crimson lets, were 
 grouped in a hollow square round the flagstaff, sang the 
 Hawaiian national anthem, the music of which is the same as 
 ours. More cheering and enthusiasm, and then the natives 
 came through the gate across the lawn, and up to the verandah 
 where the king stood, in one continuous procession, till 2,400 
 Hawaiians had enjoyed one moment of infinite and ever to be 
 remembered satisfaction in the royal presence. Every now 
 and then the white, pale-eyed, unpicturesque face of a foreigner 
 passed by, but these were few, and the foreign school children 
 were received by themselves after Mr. Lyman's boys. The 
 Americans have introduced the villanous custom of shaking 
 hands at these receptions, borrowing it, I suppose, from a 
 presidential reception at Washington ; and after the king had 
 gone through this ceremony with each native, the present was 
 deposited in front of the verandah, and the gratified giver took 
 his place on, the grass. Not a man, woman, or child came 
 empty handed. Every face beamed with pride, wonder, and 
 complacency, for here was a sovereign for whom cannon roared, 
 and yards were manned, of their own colour, who called them 
 his brethren. 
 
 The variety of costume was infinite. All the women wore 
 the native dress, the sack or holoku, many of which were black, 
 
134 ff^ WAIT. [letter xiii. 
 
 blue, green, or bright rose colour, some were bright yellow, a 
 few were pure white, and others were a mixture of orange and 
 scarlet. Some wore very pretty hats made from cane-tops, and 
 trimmed with hibiscus blossoms or passion-flowers ; others wore 
 bright-coloured handkerchiefs, knotted lightly round their flow- 
 ing hair, or wreaths of the Microlepia tenuifolia. Many had 
 tied bandanas in a graceful knot over the left shoulder. All 
 wore two, three, four, or even six beautiful Ids, besides long 
 festoons of the fragrant maile. Lets of the crimson ohia 
 blossoms were universal ; but besides these there were Ms of 
 small red and white double roses, Jiohas,^ yellow amaranth, 
 sugar cane tassels like frosted silver, the orange pandanus, the 
 delicious gardenia, and a very few of orange blossoms, and 
 the great granadilla or passion-flower. Few if any of the 
 women wore shoes, and none of the children had anything on 
 their heads. 
 
 A string of 200 Chinamen passed by, "plantation hands," 
 with boyish faces, and cunning, almond-shaped eyes. They 
 were dressed in loose, blue, denim trousers with shirts of the 
 same, fastening at the side over them, their front hair closely 
 shaven, and the rest gathered into pigtails, which were wound 
 several times round their heads. These all deposited money 
 in the adjutant-general's hand. The dress of the Hawaiian 
 men was more varied and singular than that of the women, 
 every kind of dress and undress, with lets of ohia and garlands 
 of mail6 covering all deficiencies. The poor things came up 
 with pathetic innocence, many of them with nothing on but 
 an old shirt, and cotton trousers rolled up to the knees. Some 
 had red shirts and blue trousers, others considered that a shirt 
 was an effective outer garment. Some wore highly ornamental, 
 dandified shirts, and trousers tucked into high, rusty, mud- 
 covered boots. A few young men were in white straw hats, 
 white shirts, and white trousers, with crimson leis round their 
 hats and throats. Some had diggers' scarves round their waists ; 
 but the most effective costume was sported by a few old men, 
 who had tied crash towels over their shoulders. 
 
 It was often amusing and pathetic at once to see them come 
 up. Obviously, when the critical moment arrived, they were 
 as anxious to do the right thing as a debutante is to back her 
 train successfully out of the royal presence at St. James's. Some 
 were so agitated at last as to require much coaching from the 
 
 * Physalis Peruviana. 
 
LETTER xiii.] THE GIFTS. ijg 
 
 governor as to how to present their gifts and shake hands. 
 Some half dropped down on their knees, others passionately 
 and with tears kissed the king's hand, or grasped it convulsively 
 in both their own ; while a few were so embarrassed by the 
 presents they were carrying that they had no hands at all to 
 shake, and the sovereign good-naturedly clapped them on the 
 shoulders. Some of them, in shaking hands, adroitly slipped 
 coins into the king's palm, so as to make sure that he received 
 their loving tribute. There had been a hui, or native meeting, 
 which had passed resolutions, afterwards presented to Lunalilo, 
 setting forth that whereas he received a great deal of money in 
 revenue from the haoles, they, his native people, would feel 
 that he did not love them if he would not receive from their 
 own hands contributions in silver for his support. So, in order 
 not to wound their feelings, he accepted these rather trouble- 
 some cash donations. 
 
 One woman, sorely afflicted with quaking palsy, dragged 
 herself slowly along. One hand hung by her side helpless, and 
 the other grasped a live fowl so tightly that she could not 
 loosen it to shake hands, whereupon the king raised the help- 
 less arm, which called forth much cheering. There was one 
 poor cripple who had only the use of his arms. His knees 
 were doubled under him, and he trailed his body along the 
 ground. He had dragged himself two miles " to He for a 
 moment at the king's feet," and even his poor arms carried a 
 gift. He looked hardly like a human shape, as his desire was 
 realised ; and, I doubt not, would have been content then and 
 there to die. There were ancient men, tattooed all over, who 
 had passed their first youth when the idols were cast away, and 
 who remembered the old days of tyranny when it was an 
 offence, punishable with death, for a man to let his shadow 
 fall on the king ; and when none of " the swinish multitude " 
 had any rights which they could sustain against their chiefs. 
 These came up bewildered, trembUng, almost falling on their 
 knees, hardly daring to raise their eyes to the king's kind, 
 encouraging face, and bathed his hand with tears while they 
 kissed it. Numbers of little children were led up by their 
 parents ; there were babies in arms, and younglings carried on 
 parents' backs, and the king stooped and shook hands with all, 
 and even pulled out the babies' hands from under their mufilings, 
 and the old people wept, and cheers rent th& air. 
 
 Next in interest to this procession of beaming faces, and the 
 blaze of colour, was the sight of the presents, and the un- 
 
136 HAWAII. [letter XIII. 
 
 grudging generosity with which they were brought. Many of 
 the women presented live fowls tied by the legs, which were 
 deposited, one upon another, till they formed a fainting, palpi- 
 tating heap under the hot sun. Some of the men brought 
 decorated hogs tied by one leg, which squealed so persistently 
 in the presence of royalty, that they were removed to the rear. 
 Hundreds carried nets of sweet potatoes, eggs, and kalo, 
 artistically arranged. Men staggered along in couples with 
 bamboos between them, supporting clusters of bananas weigh- 
 ing nearly a hundredweight. Others brought yams, cocoanuts, 
 oranges, onions, pumpkins, early pineapples, and even the 
 great, delicious fruit of the large passion-flower. A few maidens 
 presented the king with bouquets of choice flowers, and costly 
 leis of the yellow feathers of the Melithrepies Pacifica. There 
 were fully two tons of kalo and sweet potatoes in front of the 
 court house, hundreds of fowls, and piles of bananas, eggs, and 
 cocoanuts. The hookupu was a beautiful sight, all the more so 
 that not one of that radiant, loving, gift-offering throng came in 
 quest of office, or for any other thing that he could obtain. 
 It was just the old-time spirit of reverence for the man who 
 t3rpifies rule, blended with the extreme of personal devotion to 
 the prince whom a united people had placed upon the throne. 
 The feeling was genuine and pathetic in its intensity. It is 
 said that the natives like their king better, because he was 
 truly, " above all," the last of a proud and imperious house, 
 which, in virtue of a pedigree of centuries, looked down upon 
 the nobility of the Kamehamehas. 
 
 When the last gift was deposited, the lawn in front of the 
 court-house was one densely-packed, variegated mass of excited, 
 buzzing Hawaiians. While the king was taking a short rest, 
 two ancient and hideous females, who looked like heathen 
 priestesses, chanted a monotonous and heathenish-sounding 
 chant or mele, in eulogy of some ancient idolater. It just 
 served to remind me that this attractive crowd was but one 
 generation removed from slaughter-loving gods and human 
 sacrifices. 
 
 The king and his suite re-appeared in the upper balcony, 
 where all the foreigners were assembled, including the two 
 venerable missionaries and a French priest of benign aspect, 
 and his appearance was the signal for afresh outburst of enthu- 
 siasm. Advancing to the front, he made an extemporaneous 
 speech, of which the following is a literal translation : — 
 
 "To all present I tender my warmest ffl/o/^a. This day, on which you 
 
LETTER xm.] THE KING'S SPEECH. 137 
 
 are gathered to pay your respects to me, I will remember to the day of 
 my death. (Cheers.) I am filled with love to you all, fellow-citizens 
 {mahiaifzana), who have come here on this occasion, and for all the 
 people, because by your imanimous choice I have been made your King, a 
 young sovereign, to reign over you, and to fill the very distinguished office 
 which I now occupy. (Cheers.) You are parents to me, and I will be 
 your Father. (Tremendous cheering.) Formerly, in the days of our 
 departed ancestors, you were not permitted to approach them ; they and 
 you were kept apart ; but now we meet and associate together. (Cheers). 
 I urge you all to persevere in the right, to forsake the ignorant ways of the 
 oldan time. There is but one God, whom it is our duty to obey. Let us 
 forsake every kind of idolatry. 
 
 " In the year 1820 Rev. Messrs. Bingham, Thurston, and others came 
 to these Islands and proclaimed the Word of God. It is their teachings 
 which have enabled you to be what you are to-day. Now they have all 
 gone to that spirit land, and only Mrs. Thurston remains . We are greatly 
 indebted to them. (Cheers. ) There are also among us here (alluding to 
 Revs. Coan and Lyman) old and grey-haired fathers, whose examples we 
 should endeavour to imitate, and obey their teachings. 
 
 " I am very glad to see the young men of the present time so well 
 instructed in knowledge — perhaps some of them are your children. You 
 must persevere in your search of wisdom and in habits of morality. Do 
 not be indolent. (Cheers. ) Those who have striven hard after knowledge 
 and good character, are the ones who deserve and shall receive places of 
 trust hereafter under the government. 
 
 " At the present time I have four foreigners as my ministerial advisers. 
 But if, among these young men now standing before me, and under this flag, 
 there are any who shall qualify themselves to fill these positions, then I will 
 select them to fiU their places. (Loud cheers.) AloAa to you aU." 
 
 His manner as a speaker was extremely good, with sufficient 
 gesticulation for the emphasis of particular points. The address 
 was frequently interrupted by applause, and when at its con- 
 clusion he bowed gracefully to the crowd and said, " My alo/ia 
 to you all," the cheering and enthusiasm were absolutely un- 
 bounded. And so the great hoohcpv, ended, and the assemblage 
 broke up into knots to discuss the royal speech and the day's 
 doings. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XIV. 
 
 Cookery — "Father Lyman's" Party — Lunalilo's Intelligence — A Hilo 
 " At Home"— The last of Upa. 
 
 HiLo, Hawaii. 
 
 The king " signified his intention to honour Mr. and Mrs. 
 Severance with his company " on the evening of the day after 
 the reception, and this involved a regular party and supper. 
 You can hardly imagine the difficulties connected with "refresh- 
 ments," where few, if any, of the materials which we consider 
 necessary for dishes suitable for such occasions can be pro- 
 cured at the stores, and even milk and butter are scarce com- 
 modities. I had won a reputation as a cook by making a 
 much appreciated Bengal curry, and an English " roly-poly " 
 pudding, and when I offered my services, Mrs. S. kindly 
 accepted them, and she and I, with the Chinese cook and a 
 Chinese prisoner to assist us, have been cooking for a day and 
 a half. I wanted to make a gigantic trifle, a dish not known 
 here, and we hunted every store, hoping to find almonds and 
 raspberry jam among the " assorted notions," but in vain ; 
 however, grated cocoanut supplied the place of the first, and 
 a kind friend sent a pot of the last The Chinamen were very 
 diverting. The cook looked on, and laughed constantly, and 
 perhaps was a little jealous : at all events when he thought we 
 had spoilt some cakes in the oven, he capered into Mrs. S.'s 
 room, gesticulating, and exclaiming satirically, " Lu, Lu ! cakes 
 so good, cakes so fine ! " No intoxicants were to be used on 
 the occasion, Hilo notions being rigid on this subject ; but I 
 hope it was not a crime that I clandestinely used two glasses of 
 sherry, without which my trifle would have been a failure. We 
 worked hard, and made trifle, sponge cake, pound cake, spiced 
 cake, dozens of cocoanut cakes and drops, custards, and sand- 
 wiches of potted meat, and enjoyed our preparations so much 
 that we found it hard to exchange kitchen for social duties, 
 and go to " Father Lyman," who entertained the king and a 
 number of Hilo folk in the evening. 
 
LETTER XIV.] A POLYNESIAN SOVEREIGN. 139 
 
 Their rooms, not very large, were quite full. When the 
 king entered, the company received him standing, and the flute 
 band in the verandah played the national anthem, and after- 
 wards at intervals during the evening sang some Hawaiian 
 songs of the king's composition. I was presented to him, and 
 as he is very courteous to strangers, he talked to me a good 
 deal. He is a gentlemanly, courteous, unassuming man, hardly 
 assuming enough in fact, and apparently very intelligent and 
 well read. I was exceedingly pleased with him. He spoke a 
 good deal of Queen Emma's reception in England, and of her 
 raptures with Venice, and some other cities of the continent. 
 He said he had the greatest desire to visit some parts of 
 Europe, Great Britain specially, because he thought that by 
 coming in contact with some of our leading statesmen, he 
 might gain a more accurate knowledge than he possessed of 
 the principles of constitutional government. He said he hoped 
 that in two years Hawaii-nei would be so settled as to allow of 
 his travelling, and that in the meantime he was studying French 
 with a view to enjoying the continent. 
 
 He asked a great many questions regarding things at home, 
 specially concerning the limitation of the power of the Crown. 
 He cannot reconcile the theoretical right of the sovereign to 
 choose his advisers with his practically submitting to receive 
 them from a Parliamentary majority. He seemed to find a 
 difficulty in understanding that the sovereign's right to refuse 
 his assent to a Bill which had passed both Houses was by no 
 means the same thing in practice as the possession of a veto. 
 He said that in his reading of our constitutional history, the 
 power of the sovereign seemed almost absolute, while if he 
 understood facts rightly, the throne was more of an "orna- 
 ment," or " figure-head," than a power at all. He asked me if 
 it were true that Republican feeling was spreading very much 
 in England, and if I thought that the monarchy would survive 
 the present sovereign, on whose prudence and exalted virtues 
 he seemed to think it rested. He said he thought his litde 
 kingdom had aped the style of the great monarchies too much, 
 and that he should like to abolish a good many high sounding 
 tides, sinecure offices, the household troops, and some of the 
 " imitation pomp " of his court. He said he had never enjoyed 
 anything so much since his accession as the hookupu of the 
 morning, and asked me what I thought of it. I was glad 
 to be able to answer truthfully that I had never seen a state 
 pageant or ceremonial that I had enjoyed half so much, or 
 
I40 HA WAIT. [letter xiv. 
 
 that had impressed me so favourably. He has a very musical 
 voice, a natural nobility and refinement of manner, and obvious 
 tact and good feeling, rather, I should think, the result of 
 amiable and gentlemanly instincts than of training pr considera- 
 tion, all which combine to make him interesting, altogether 
 apart from his position as a Polynesian sovereign. 
 
 Where there are no servants, a party involves the hosts and 
 their friends in the bustle of personal preparation, but all 
 worked with a will, and by sunset the decorations were com- 
 pleted. All the Chinese lamps in Hilo were hung in the front 
 verandah, and seats were placed in the front and side veran- 
 dahs, on which the drawing-room opens by four doors, so there 
 was plenty of room, though there were thirty people. The 
 side verandah was enclosed by a drapery of flags, and the 
 whole was tastefully decorated with festoons and wreaths of 
 ferns. The king arrived early with his attendants, and was 
 received by the host and hostess, and like a perfectly civilized 
 guest, he handed Mrs. S. into the room. The great wish of 
 the genial entertainers was to prevent stiffness and give the 
 king a really social evening, so the "chair game," magical 
 music, and a refined kind of blind man's buff, better suited to 
 the occasion, but less "jolly" than the old riotous game, 
 were shortly introduced. Lunalilo only looked on at first, and 
 , then entered into the games with a heartiness and zest which 
 showed that he at least enjoyed the evening. Supper was 
 served at nine. Several nests of Japanese tables had been 
 borrowed, and these, dispersed about the room and verandah, 
 broke up the guests into little social knots. Three Hilo ladies 
 and I were the waitresses, and I was pleased to see that the good 
 things were thoroughly appreciated, and that the trifle was uni- 
 versally popular. After supper there was a little dancing, and as 
 few of the Hilo people knew any dance correctly, it was very 
 amusing for the on-lookers. There was a great deal of pro- 
 menading in the verandah, and a great deal of talking and 
 merriment, which were enjoyed by a crowd of natives who 
 stood the whole evening outside the garden fence. I don't 
 think that any of the Hilo people are so unhappy as to possess 
 an evening dress, and the pretty morning dresses of the ladies, 
 and the thick boots, easy morning coats, and black ties of 
 the gentlemen, gave a jolly "break-down" look to the affair, 
 which would have been deemed inadmissible in less civilized 
 society. 
 
 Some of my photographs of some of our eminent literary 
 
LETTER XIV.] THE LAST OF UFA. 141 
 
 and scientific men were lying on the table, and the king in 
 looking at them showed a surprising amount of knowledge of 
 what they had written or done, quite entitling him to unite in 
 Dean Stanley's " Communion of Educated Men." I had pre- 
 viously asked him for his signature for my autograph collec- 
 tion, and he said he had composed a stanza for me which he 
 thought I might like to have in addition. He called with it 
 on the following afternoon, apologising for his dress, a short 
 jacket and blue trowsers, stuffed into boots plastered with 
 mud up to the knees. I was surprised when he asked me 
 if the lines were correctly spelt, for he speaks English re- 
 markably well. They are simply a kind wish, unaffectedly 
 expressed. 
 
 " HiLO, Hawaii, Feb. Tib. 
 
 " Whereso'er thou may'st roam, 
 Whereso'er thou mak'st thy home, 
 May God thy footsteps guide, 
 Watch o'er thee and provide. 
 This is my earnest prayer for thee. 
 Welcome, stranger, from over the sea. 
 
 " LUNALILO R." 
 
 It startles one sometimes to hear American vulgarisms 
 uttered in his harmonious tones. The American admiral and 
 generals had just arrived from the volcano, stiff",, sore, bruised, 
 jaded, "done," and the king said, "I guess the Admiral's 
 about used up." He is really remarkably attractive, but I 
 observe a look of irresolution about his mouth, indicative of a 
 facility of disposition capable of being turned to the worst 
 account. I think from what I have heard that the Hawaiian 
 kings have fallen victims rather to unscrupulous foreigners, 
 than to their own bad instincts. 
 
 My last day has been taken up with farewell visits, and I 
 finish this on board the " Kilauea." Miss Karpe and I had to 
 ride two miles, to a point at which it was possible to embark 
 without risk, a heavy surf having for three weeks rendered it 
 impossible for loaded boats to communicate with the shore at 
 Hilo. My clothes were soaked when we reached the rocks, 
 and Upa, very wet, carried us into a wet whale-boat, with 
 water up to our ancles, which brought us over a heavy, sicken- 
 ing swell into this steamer, which is dirty as well as wet. I 
 told Upa to lead my mare, and ride his own horse, but the 
 
142 HA WAIL [letter xiv. 
 
 last I saw of him was on the mare's back, racing a troop of 
 natives along the beach.* 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
 * This was almost his last exploit. A few days later the sheriff had 
 the painful duty of committing him as a leper to the leper settlement on 
 Molokai. He was a leading spirit among the Hilo natives, and his joyous 
 nature will he missed by everyone. He has left a wife and some beautiful 
 children, who, it is feared, will eventually share his fate. 
 
LETTER XV. 
 
 An Imitation Gale — Leeward Hawaii — A Heathen Temple — The Waimea 
 Plains — The Early Settlers — Native Criticism. 
 
 Waimea, Hawaii. 
 
 There is no limit to the oddities of the steam-ship 
 " Kilauea." She lay rolling on the Hilo swell for two hours, 
 and two hours after we sailed her machinery broke down, and 
 we lay-to for five hours, in what they here call a heavy gale and 
 sea. It was a miserable night No privacy : the saloon both 
 hot and wet, almost every one sick. I lay in my berth in my 
 soaked clothes watching the proceedings of a gigantic cock- 
 roach, and listening, not without amusement, to the awful 
 groans of a Chinaman, and a " rough customer " from Cali- 
 fornia, who occupied the next berths. 
 
 In the middle of the night the water came in great dashes 
 through the skyHght upon the table, and soon the saloon was 
 afloat to the depth of from four to six inches. When the 
 " Kilauea " rolled, and the water splashed in simultaneously, 
 we were treated to vigorous " douches," which soon saturated 
 the pillows, mattresses, and our clothing. One sea put out the 
 lamp, and a ship's lantern, making " darkness visible," was 
 swung in its stead. In an English ship there would have been 
 a great fuss and a great flying about of stewards, on pretence 
 of mending matters, but when the passengers shouted for our 
 good steward; the serene creature came in with a melancholy 
 smile on his face, said nothing, but quietly sat down on the 
 transom, with his bare feet in the water, contemplating it with 
 a comic air of helplessness. Breakfast, of course, could not be 
 served, but a plate was put at one end of the table for the 
 silent old Scotch captain, who tucked up his feet and sat with 
 his oilskins and sou'-wester on, while the charming steward, 
 with trousers rolled up to his knees, waded about, pacifying 
 us by bringing us excellent curry as we sat on the edges of 
 
144 HA WAIT. ' [letter xv. 
 
 our berths, and putting on a sweetly apologetic manner, as if 
 penitent for the gross misbehaviour of the ship. Such a 
 man would reconcile me to far greater discomfort than that of 
 the " Kilauea." I wonder if he is ever unamiable, or tired, or 
 perturbed ? 
 
 The next day was fine, and we were all much on deck to dry 
 our clothes in the sun. The southern and leeward coasts of 
 Hawaii as far as Kaawaloa are not much more attractive than 
 coal-fields. Contrasted with the shining shores of Hilo, they 
 are as dust and ashes ; long reaches of black lava and miles of 
 clinkers marking the courses of lava-flows, whose black desola- 
 tion and deformity nature, as yet, has done almost nothing to 
 clothe. Cocoa-nut trees usually, however, fringe the shore, 
 but were it not for the wonderful colour of the ocean, like 
 liquid, transparent turquoise, revealing the coral forests 
 shelving down into purple depths, and the exciting proximity 
 of sharks, it would have been wearisome. After leaving the 
 bay where Captain Cook met his death, we passed through a 
 fleet of twenty-seven canoes, each one hollowed out of the 
 trunk of a single tree, from fifteen to twenty-five feet long, 
 about twenty inches deep, hardly wide enough for a fat man, 
 and pointed at both ends. On one side there is an outrigger 
 formed" of two long, bent sticks, to the outer ends of which is 
 bound a curved beam of light wood, which skims along the 
 surface of the water, rendering the canoe secure from an upset 
 on that side, while the weight of the outrigger makes an upset 
 on the other very unlikely. In calms they are paddled, and 
 shoot over the water with great rapidity, but whenever there is 
 any breeze a small sprit-sail is used. They are said to be able 
 to stand very rough water, but they are singularly precarious 
 and irresponsible looking contrivances, and for these, as well 
 as for all other seas, I should much prefer a staunch whale- 
 boat. We sailed for some hours along a lava coast, stream- 
 less, rainless, verdureless, blazing under the fierce light of a 
 tropical sun, and some time after noon anchored in the 
 scorching bay of Kawaihae. 
 
 A foreign store, a number of native houses, a great heiau, or 
 heathen temple on a height, a fringe of cocoa-nut palms, and 
 a background of blazing hills, flaring with varieties of red, 
 hardly toned down by any attempt at vegetation, a crystalline 
 atmosphere palpitating with heat, deep, rippleless, clear water, 
 with coral groves below, and a view of the three great 
 Hawaiian mountains, are the salient features of this outlet of 
 
LETTER XV.] A HEATHEN TEMPLE. 145 
 
 Hawaiian commerce. But ah ! how soft and mild a blue the 
 sky was, looking inland, where, for the first time, I saw far 
 aloft, above solid masses of white cloud, sky hung, strangely 
 uplifted, the great volcanic domes of Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, 
 and Hualalai, looking as if they had all passed into an endless 
 repose. 
 
 Shortly before we arrived I found that the sailing of the 
 San Francisco steamer is put off for a week, so I took advan- 
 tage of a kind invitation I received some time ago to visit 
 Waimea, and go from thence to Waimanu, a wonderful valley 
 beyond AVaipio, very little visited by foreigners. A gentleman 
 and lady rode up here with me, and I got a horse on the beach 
 with a native bullock saddle on him, an uncouth contrivance of 
 wood not covered with hide, and a strong lassoing horn. The 
 great wooden stirrups could not be shortened, but I soon found 
 myself able, in true savage fashion, to gallop up and down hill 
 without any. 
 
 The chief object of interest on this ride is \h& ^tdX heiau, 
 which stands on a bare, steep hill above the sea, not easy of 
 access. It was the last heathen temple built on Hawaii. On 
 entering the huge pile, which stood gaunt and desolate in the 
 thin red air, the story of the old bloody heathenism of the 
 islands returned to my memory. The entrance is by a narrow 
 passage between two high walls, and it was by this that the 
 sacrificing priests dragged the human victims into the presence 
 of Tairi, a hideous wooden idol, crowned with a helmet, and 
 covered with red feathers, the favourite war-god of Kame- 
 hameha the Great, by whom this temple was built, before he 
 proceeded to the conquest of Oahu. 
 
 The shape is an irregular parallelogram, 224 feet long, and 
 100 wide. At each end, and on the mauka side, the walls, 
 which are very solid and compact, though built of lava stones 
 without mortar, are twenty feet high, and twelve feet wide at 
 the bottom, but narrow gradually towards the top, where they 
 are finished with a course of smooth stones six feet broad. On 
 the sea side, the wall,' which has been partly thrown down, was 
 not more than six or seven feet high, and there were paved 
 platforms for the accommodation of the alii, or chiefs, and the 
 people in their orders. The upper terrace is spacious, and 
 paved with flat smooth stones which were brought from a con- 
 siderable distance, the greater part of the population of the 
 island having been employed on the building. At the south 
 end there was an inner court, where the principal idol stood, 
 
 L 
 
146 HA WAIL [letter XV. 
 
 surrounded by a number of inferior deities, for the Hawaiians 
 had " gods many, and lords many." Here also was the ami, 
 a lofty frame of wickerwork, shaped like an obelisk, hollow, 
 and five feet square at its base. Within this, the priest, who 
 was the oracle of the god, stood, and of him the king used to 
 inquire concerning war or peace, or any affair of national im- 
 portance. It appears that the tones of the oracular voice were 
 more distinct than the meaning of the utterances. However, 
 the supposed answers were generally acted upon. 
 
 On the outside of this inner court was the IHe, or altar, on 
 which human and other sacrifices were offered. On the day 
 of the dedication of the temple to Tairi, vast offerings of fruit, 
 dogs, and hogs were presented, and eleven human beings 
 v/ere immolated on the altar. These victims were taken from 
 among captives, or those who had broken Tabu, or had ren- 
 dered themselves obnoxious to the chiefs, and were often 
 blind, maimed, or crippled persons. Sometimes they were 
 dispatched at a distance with a stone or club, and their bodies 
 were dragged along the narrow passage up which I walked 
 shuddering ; but oftener they were bound and taken alive into 
 the heiau to be slain in the outer court. The priests, iii slaying 
 these sacrifices, were careful to mangle the bodies as little as 
 possible. From two to twenty were offered at once. They 
 were laid in a row with their faces downwards on the altar 
 before the idol, to which they were presented in a kind of 
 prayer by the priest, and, if offerings of hogs were presented at 
 the same time, these were piled upon them, and the whole mass 
 was left to putrefy. 
 
 The only dwellings within the heiau were those of the priests, 
 and the "sacred house" of the king, in which he resided 
 during the seasons of strict Tabu. A doleful place this heiau 
 is, haunted not only by the memories of almost unimaginable 
 terrors, but by the sore thought that generations of Hawaiians 
 lived and died in the unutterable darkness of this ignorant 
 worship, passing in long procession from these grim rites into 
 the presence of the Father whose infinite compassions they had 
 never known. 
 
 Every hundred feet of ascent from the rainless, fervid beach 
 of Kawaihae increased the freshness of the temperature, and 
 rendered exercise more delightful. From the fringe of palms 
 along the coast to the damp hills north of Waimea, a distance 
 of ten miles, there is not a tree or stream, though the scorched 
 earth is deeply scored by the rush of fierce temporary torrents. 
 
LETTER XV.] AN INHOSPITABLE INTERROGATION. 147 
 
 Hitherto, I have only travelled over the green coast which 
 faces the trade winds, where clouds gather and shed their 
 rains, and this desert, which occupies a great part of leeward 
 Hawaii, displeases me. It lies burning in the fierce splendours 
 of a zone, which, until now, I had forgotten was the torrid 
 zone, unwatered and unfruitful, red and desolate under the 
 sun. The island is here only twenty-two miles wide, and 
 strong winds sweep across it, whirling up its surface in great 
 brown clouds, so that the uplands in part appear a smoking 
 plain, backed by naked volcanic cones. No water, no grass, 
 no ferns. Some thornless thistles, a little brush of sapless- 
 looking indigo, and some species of compositas struggle for a 
 doleful existence. There is nothing tropical about it but the 
 intense heat. The red soil becomes suffused with a green 
 tinge ten miles from the beach, and at the summit of the as- 
 cent the desert blends with this beautiful Waimea plain, one 
 of the most marked features of Hawaii. The air became damp 
 and cool ; miles of fine, smooth, green grass stretched out 
 before us ; high hills, broken, pinnacled, wooded, and cleft 
 with deep ravines, rose on our left ; we heard the dash and 
 music of falling water : to the north it was like the Munster 
 Thai, to the south altogether volcanic. The tropics had 
 vanished. There were frame houses sheltered from the winds 
 by artificial screens of mulberry trees, and from the incursions 
 of cattle by rough walls of lava stones five feet high ; a mission 
 and court house, a native church, much too large for the 
 shrunken population, and other indications of an inhabited 
 region. Except for the woods which clothe the hills, the 
 characteristic of the scenery is baldness. 
 
 On clambering over the wall which surrounds my host's 
 kraal of dwellings, I heard in the dusk strange, sweet voices 
 crying rudely and emphatically, "Who are you? What do you 
 want ? " and was relieved to find that the somewhat inhospit- 
 able interrogation only proceeded from two Australian mag- 
 pies. Mr. S is a Tasmanian, married to a young half white 
 
 lady : and her native mother and seven or eight dark girls are 
 here, besides a number of natives and Chinese, and half 
 Chinese, who are employed about the place. Sheep are the 
 source of my host's wealth. He has 25,000 at three stations 
 on Mauna Kea, and, at an altitude of 6000 feet they 
 flourish, and are free from some of the maladies to which 
 they are liable elsewhere. Though there are only three or four 
 sheep owners on the islands, they exported 288,526 lbs. of 
 
148 HA WAIf. [letter XV. 
 
 wool in 1872* Mr. S has also 1000 head of cattle and 
 
 50 horses. 
 
 The industry of Waimea is cattle raising, and some feeble 
 attempts are being made to improve the degenerate island 
 breed by the importation of a few short-horn cows from New 
 Zealand. These plains afford magnificent pasturage as well 
 as galloping ground. They are a very great thoroughfare. 
 The island, which is an equilateral triangle, about 300 miles 
 in " circuit," can only be crossed here. Elsewhere, an im- 
 penetrable forest belt, and an impassable volcanic wilderness, 
 compel travellers to take the burning track of adamant which 
 snakes round the southern coast, when they are minded to go 
 from one side of Hawaii to the other. Waimea also has the 
 singular distinction of a road from the beach, which is traversed 
 on great occasions by two or three oxen and mule teams, and 
 very rarely by a more ambitious conveyance. There are 
 few hours of day or night in which the tremulous thud 
 of shoeless horses galloping on grass is not heard in Waimea. 
 
 The altitude of this great table-land is 2500 feet, and the 
 air is never too hot, the temperature averaging 64° Fahrenheit. 
 There is mist or rain on most days of the year for a short 
 time, and the mornings and evenings are clear and cool. The 
 long sweeping curves of the three great Hawaiian mountains 
 spring from this level. The huge bulk of Mauna Kea without 
 shoulders or spurs, rises directly from the Waimea level on the 
 south to the altitude of 14,000 feet, and his base is thickly 
 clustered with tufa-cones of a bright red colour, from 300 to 
 1000 feet in height. Considerably further back, indeed forty 
 miles away, the smooth dome of Mauna Loa appears very 
 serene now, but only thirteen years ago the light was so bril- 
 liant, from one of its tremendous eruptions, that here it was 
 possible to read a newspaper by it, and during its height 
 candles were unnecessary in the evenings ! Nearer the coast, 
 and about thirty miles from here, is the less conspicuous dome 
 of the dead volcano of Hualalai. If all Hawaii, south of 
 Waimea, were submerged to a depth of 8000 feet, three nearly 
 equi-distant, dome-shaped volcanic islands would remain, the 
 highest of which would have an altitude of 6000 feet. To the 
 south of these plains violent volcanic action is everywhere ap- 
 parent, not only in tufa-cones, but in tracts of ashes, scoriae, 
 and volcanic sand. Near the centre there are some very 
 curious caves, possibly " lava-bubbles," which were used by the 
 "^ In 1875 t^E export of wool had increased to 465,469 lbs. 
 
LETTER XV.] THE EARLY SETTLERS. 149 
 
 natives as places of sepulture. The Kohala hills, picturesque, 
 wooded, and abrupt, bound Waimca on the north, with ex- 
 quisite grassy slopes, and bring down, an abundance of water 
 to the plain, but owing to the lightness of the soil and the 
 evaporation produced by the tremendous winds, the moisture 
 disappears within two miles of the hills, and an area of rich 
 soil, ten miles by twelve, which, if irrigated, would be invalu- 
 able, is nothing but a worthless dusty desert, perpetually en- 
 croaching on the grass. As soon as the plains slope towards 
 the east, the vegetation of the tropics reappears, and the face 
 of the country is densely covered with a swampy and impene- 
 trable bush hardly at all explored, which shades the sources of 
 the streams which fall into the Waipio and Waimanu Valleys, 
 and is supposed to contain water enough to irrigate the Saharas 
 of leeward Hawaii. 
 
 The climate of the plain is most invigorating. If there were 
 waggon roads and obtainable comforts, Waimea, with its cool, 
 equable temperature, might become the great health resort of 
 invalids from the Pacific coast. But Hawaii is not a place for 
 the sick or old ; for, if people cannot ride on horseback, they 
 can have neither society nor change. Mr. Lyons, one of the 
 most famous of the early missionaries^ still clings to this place, 
 where he has worked for forty years. He is an Hawaiian poet; 
 and, besides translating some of our best hymns, has composed 
 enough to make up the greater part of a bulky volume, which 
 is said to be of great merit. He says that the language lends 
 itself very readily to rhythmical expression. He was indefati- 
 gable in his youth, and was four times let down the fali by 
 ropes to preach in the Waimanu Valley. Neither he nor his 
 wife can mount a horse now, and it is very dreary for them, 
 as the population has receded and dwindled from about them. 
 Their house is made lively, however, by some bright little na- 
 tive girls, who board with them, and receive an English and 
 industrial education. 
 
 The moral atmosphere of Waimea has never been a whole- 
 some one. The region was very early settled by a class of 
 what may be truly termed "mean whites," the "beach- 
 combers " and riff-raff of the Pacific. They lived infamous 
 lives, and added their own to the indigenous vices of the 
 islands, turning the district into a perfect sink of iniquity, in 
 which they were known by such befitting aliases as " Jake the 
 Devil," &c. The coming of the missionaries, and the settle- 
 ment of moral, orderly whites on Hawaii, have slowly created 
 
150 HA WAII. [letter xv. 
 
 a public opinion averse to flagrant immorality, and the out- 
 rageous license of former years would now meet with legal 
 penalties. Many of the old settlers are dead, and others have 
 drifted to regions beyond restraining influences, but still " the 
 Waimea crowd " is not considered up to the mark. Most of 
 the present set of foreigners are Englishmen who have 
 married native women. It was in such quarters as this that 
 the great antagonistic influence to the complete Christianiza- 
 tion of the natives was created, and it is from such suspicious 
 sources that the aspersions on missionary work are usually 
 derived. 
 
 Waimea has its own beauty — the grand breezy plain, the 
 gigantic sweep of the mountain curves, the incessant changes 
 of colour, and the morning view of Mauna Kea, with the pure 
 snow on its ragged dome, rose-flushed in the early sunlight. 
 I don't agree with Disraeli that " happiness is atmosphere ; " 
 yet constant sunshine, and a climate which never threatens 
 one with discomfort or ills, certainly conduce to equable 
 cheerfulness. 
 
 I am quite interested with a native lady here, the first I have 
 met with who has been able to express her ideas in English. 
 She is extremely shrewd and intelligent, very satirical, and a 
 great mimic. She very cleverly burlesques the way in which 
 white people express their admiration of scenery, and, in fact, 
 ridicules admiration of scenery for itself. She evidently thinks 
 us a sour, morose, worrying, forlorn race. " We," she said, 
 "are always happy; we never grieve long about anything; 
 when any one dies we break our hearts for some days, and 
 then we are happy again. We are happy all day long, not like 
 white people, happy one moment, gloomy another : we've no 
 cares, the days are too short. What are haoles always unhappy 
 about ? " Perhaps she expresses the general feeling of her 
 careless, pleasure-loving, mirth-loving people, who, whatever 
 commands they disobey, fulfil the one, " Take no thought for 
 the morrow." The fabrication of the beautiful quilts I before 
 wrote of is a favourite occupation of native women, and they 
 make all their own and their husbands' clothes ; but making 
 leis, going into the woods to collect materials for them, talking, 
 riding, bathing, visiting, and otherwise amusing themselves, 
 take up the greater part of their time. Perhaps if we white 
 women always wore holokus of one shape, we should have 
 fewer gloomy moments ! 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XVI. 
 
 A Grass Lodge — Alone Among "Savages" — A Dizzy Pali — Out of the 
 World — Elysium — A Lapse into Savagery— A Troubled Night — The 
 Waimanu Valley — A Silent World — A Pilikia. 
 
 Waimanu Valley, Hawaii. 
 
 I AM sitting at the door of a grass lodge, at the end of all 
 things, for no one can pass further by land than this huge, 
 lonely cleft. About thirty natives are sittting about me, all 
 
 . Ordinary Female Costume. 
 
 staring, laughing, and chattering, and I am the only white 
 person in the region. We have all had a meal, sitting round 
 a large calabash of poi and a fowl, which was killed in my 
 honour, and roasted in one of their stone ovens. I have for- 
 
152 HAIVAII. [letter XVI. 
 
 gotten my knife, and have had to help myself after the primi- 
 tive fashion of aborigines, not without some fear, for some of 
 them I am sure are in an advanced state of leprosy. The 
 brown tattooed limbs of one man are stretched across the mat, 
 the others are sitting cross-legged, makmg ■ lauhala Ms. One 
 man is making fishing-lines of a beautifully white and marvel- 
 lously tenacious fibre, obtained from an Hawaiian " flax " plant 
 (possibly Urtica argentea), very different from the New Zealand 
 Fhormium tenax. Nearly all 'the people of the valley are out- 
 side, having come to see the wahine haole : only one white 
 woman, and she a resident of Hawaii, having been seen in 
 Waimanu before. I am really alone, miles of mountain and 
 gulch lie between me and the nearest whites. This is a won- 
 derful place : a ravine about three miles long and three-quarters 
 of a mile wide, without an obvious means of ingress, being 
 walled in by precipices from 2000 to 4000 feet high. Five 
 cascades dive from the palis at its head, and unite to form a 
 placid river about up to a horse's body here, and deep enough 
 for a horse to swim in a little below. Dense forests of various 
 shades of green fill up the greater part of the valley, concealing 
 the basins into which the cascades leap, and the grey basalt of 
 the palis is mostly hidden by greenery. At the open end, two 
 bald bluffs, one of them 2000 feet in height, confront the 
 Pacific, and its loud booming surf comes up to within one 
 hundred yards of the house where I am writing, but is banked 
 off by a heaped-up barrier of colossal shingle. 
 
 Hot and silent, a sunset world of an endless afternoon, it 
 seems a palpable and living dream. And a few of these people, 
 I understand, have dreamed away their lives here, never having 
 been beyond their valley, at least by land. But it is a dream 
 of ceaseless speech and rippling laughter. They are the 
 merriest people I have yet seen, and doubtless their isolated 
 life is dear to them. 
 
 I wish I could sketch this most picturesque scene. In the 
 verandah, which is formed of mats, two handsome youths, and 
 five women in green, red, and orange chemises, all with leis of 
 ferns round their hair, are reclining on the ground. Outside of 
 this there is a pavement of large lava stones, and groups in all 
 colours, wreathed and garlanded, including some much disfigured 
 old people, crouching in red and yellow blankets, are sitting 
 and Isdng there. Some are fondling small dogs ; and a number 
 of large ones, with a whole tribe of amicable cats, are picking 
 bones. Surf-boards, paddles, saddles, lassos, spurs, gear, and 
 
LETTER XVI.] NATIVE CURIOSITY. 153 
 
 bundles of // leaves are lying about. Thirteen horses are 
 tethered outside, some of which brought the riders who escorted 
 me triumphantly from the head of the valley. The foreheads 
 of the precipices opposite are reddening in the sunset, and 
 between them and me horses and children are constantly swim- 
 ming across the broad, still stream which divides the village 
 into two parts ; and now and then a man in a vialo, and chil- 
 dren who have come up the river swimming, with their clothes 
 in one hand, increase the assemblage. 
 
 All are intently watching me, but are as kind and good- 
 natured as possible ; and my guide from Waipio is discoursing 
 to them about me. He knows a little abrupt, disjointed, almost 
 unintelligible English, and comes up every now and then with 
 an interrogation in his manner, "Father? mother? married? 
 watch ? How came ? " " You " appears beyond his efforts. 
 " Kilauea ? Lunalilo 2 " Then he goes back and orates 
 rapidly, gesticulating emphatically. A very handsome, pleasant- 
 looking man, with a red sash round his waist, who, I under- 
 stand from signs, is the schoolmaster, emerged from the throng, 
 and sat down beside me ; but his English appears limited to 
 these words, " How old ? " When I told him by counting on 
 my fingers he laughed heartily, and said, " Too old," and he 
 told the others, and they all laughed. I have photographs of 
 Queen Victoria and Mr. Coan in my writing-book, and when I 
 exhibited them they crowded round me clapping their hands, 
 and screaming with delight when they recognized Mr. Coan. 
 The king's handwriting was then handed round amidst reverent 
 " ahs " and " ohs," or what sounded like them. This letter was 
 also passed round and examined lengthwise, sidewise, and up- 
 side down. They shrieked with satirical laughter when I 
 pressed some fragile ferns in my blotting-book. The natives 
 think it quite idiotic in us to attach any value to " withered 
 leaves." My inkstand with its double-spring lids has been a 
 great amusement. Each one opened both, and shut them 
 again, and a chorus of " maikai, inaikai" (good) ran round the 
 circle. They seem so simple and good that at last I have 
 trusted them with my watch, which excites unbounded admira- 
 tion, probably because of its small size. It is now on its travels ; 
 but I am not the least anxious about it. A man pointed to 
 a hut some distance on the other side of the river, and appeared 
 interrogative, and on my replying affirmatively, he mounted a 
 horse and carried off the watch in the direction indicated. Mr. 
 Ellis came to this valley in a canoe, and he mentions that when 
 
154 HAWAII. [letter XVI. 
 
 he preached, the natives, who seemed to be very indifferent to 
 the general truths of Christianity, became very deeply interested 
 when they heard of Ora loa ia /esu (endless life by Jesus). 
 While I was up the valley the poor people made a wonderful 
 bed of seven fine mats, one over the other, on one side of the 
 house, and screened it off with a flaring muslin curtain; but on 
 the other side there are ten pillows in a row, so that I wonder 
 how many are to occupy the den during the night. I am now 
 writing inside the house, with a hollowed stone with some beef 
 fat with a wick in it, for a light, and two youths seem delegated 
 to attend upon me. One holds my ink, and if I look up, the 
 other rushes for something that I am supposed to want. They 
 insist on thinking that I am cold because my clothes are wet, 
 and have thrown over me several folds of tapa, made from the 
 inner bark of the wautiox cloth plant {Broussonetia papyriferd). 
 They brought me a kalo leaf containing a number of living 
 freshwater shrimps, and were quite surprised when I did not 
 eat them. 
 
 Waipio, March t^th. 
 
 It seems fully a week since I left Waimea yesterday morning, 
 so many new experiences have been crowded into the time. I 
 will try to sketcli my expedition while my old friend Halemanu 
 is preparing dinner. The morning opened gloriously. The 
 broad Waimea plains were flooded with red and gold, and the 
 snowy crest of Mauna Kea was cloudless. We breakfasted by 
 lamp light (the days of course are short in this latitude), and were 
 away before six. My host kindly provided me with a very fine 
 horse and some provisions in a leather wallet, and with another 
 white man and a native accompanied me as far as this valley, 
 where they had some business. The morning deepened into 
 gorgeousness. A blue mist hung in heavy folds round the violet 
 bases of the mountains, which rose white and sharp into the 
 rose-flushed sky ; the dew lay blue and sparkling on the short 
 crisp grass ; the air was absolutely pure, and with a suspicion of 
 frost in it. It was all very fair, and the horses enjoyed the 
 morning freshness, and danced and champed their bits as 
 though they disliked being reined in. We rode over level, 
 grass-covered ground, till we reached the Hamakua bush, 
 fringed with dead trees, and full of ohias and immense fern 
 trees, some of them with a double tier of fronds, far larger and 
 finer than any that I saw in New Zealand. There are herds of 
 wild goats, cattle, and pigs on the island, and they'roam through- 
 
LETTER XVI.] A DIZZY " PALI." 155 
 
 out this region, trampling, grubbing, and rending, grinding 
 the bark of the old trees and eating up the young ones. 
 This ravaging is threatening at no distant date to destroy the 
 beauty and alter the climate of the mountainous region of 
 Hawaii. The cattle are a hideous breed — all bones, hide, and 
 horns. 
 
 We were at the top of the Waipio pali at eight, and our bare- 
 footed horses, used to the soft pastures of Waimea, refused to 
 carry us down its rocky steep, so we had to walk. I admired 
 this lonely valley far more than before. It was full of infinite 
 depths of blue — ^blue smoke in lazy spirals curled upwards ; it 
 was eloquent in a morning silence that I felt reluctant to break. 
 Against its dewy greenness the beach shone like coarse gold, 
 and its slow, silver river lingered lovingly, as though loth to 
 leave it, and be merged in the reckless, loud-tongued Pacific. 
 Across the valley, the track I was to take climbed up in thready 
 zigzags, and disappeared round a bold headland. It was 
 worth a second visit just to get a glimpse of such a vision of 
 peace. 
 
 Halemanu, with hospitable alacrity, soon made breakfast 
 ready, after which Mr. S., having arranged for my further 
 journey, left me here, and for the first time I found myself 
 alone among natives ignorant of English. For the Waimanu 
 trip it is essential to have a horse bred in the Waimanu Valley 
 and used to its dizzy palis, and such a horse was procured, and 
 a handsome native, called Hananui, as guide. We were away 
 by ten, and galloped across the valley till we came to the 
 nearly perpendicular pali on the other side. The sight of this 
 air-hung trail from Halemanu's house has turned back several 
 travellers who were bent on the trip, but I had been told that 
 it was quite safe on a Waimanu horse ; and keeping under my 
 fears as best I could, I let Hananui precede me, and began the 
 ascent, which is visible from here for an hour. The fali is as 
 nearly perpendicular as can be. Not a bush or fern, hardly a 
 tuft of any green thing, clothes its bare, scathed sides. It 
 terminates precipitously on the sea at a height of 2000 feet. 
 Along this shelving wall, something like a sheep track, from 
 thirty to forty-six inches broad, goes up in great swinging zig- 
 zags, sometimes as broken steps of rock breast high, at others 
 as a smooth ledge with hardly foothold, in three places carried 
 away by heavy rains — altogether the most frightful track that 
 imagination can conceive. It was most unpleasant to see the 
 guide's horse straining and scrambling, looking every now and 
 
156 HA WAIT. [letter xvi. 
 
 then as if about to fall over backwards. My horse went up 
 wisely and nobly, but slipping, jumping, scrambling, and send- 
 ing stones over the ledge, now and then hanging for a second 
 by his fore feet. The higher we went the narrower and worse 
 it grew. The girth was loose, so as not to impede the horse's 
 respiration, the broad cinch which usually passes under the 
 body having been fastened round his chest, and yet it was once 
 or twice necessary to run the risk of losing my balance by 
 taking my left foot out of the stirrup to press it against the 
 horse's neck to prevent it from being crushed, while my right 
 hung over the precipice. We came to a place where the path 
 had been carried away, leaving a declivity of loose sand and 
 gravel. You can hardly realize how difficult it was to dis- 
 mount, when there was no margin outside the horse. I some- 
 how sHd under him, being careful not to turn the saddle, and 
 getting hold of his hind leg, screwed myself round carefully 
 behind him. It was alarming to see these sure-footed creatures 
 struggle and slide in the deep gravel as though they must go 
 over, and not less so to find myself sliding, though I was grasp- 
 ing my horse's tail. 
 
 Between the summit and Waimanu, a distance of ten miles, 
 there are nine gulches, two of them about 900 feet deep, all 
 very beautiful, owing to the broken ground, the luxuriant vege- 
 tation, and the bright streams, but the Jwna, or south wind, was 
 blowing, bringing up the hot breath of the equatorial belt, and 
 the sun was perfectly unclouded, so that the heat of the gorges 
 was intense. They succeed each other occasionally with very 
 great rapidity. Between two of the deepest and steepest there 
 is a ridge not more than fifty yards wide. 
 
 Soon after noon we simultaneously stopped our horses. The 
 Waimanu Valley lay 2500 feet (it is said) below us, and the 
 trail struck off into space. It was a scene of loneliness to 
 which Waipio seems the world. In a second the eye took in 
 the twenty grass lodges of its inhabitants, the five cascades 
 which dive into the dense forests of its upper end, its river like 
 a silver ribbon, and its meadows of living green. In ten seconds 
 a bird could have spanned the ravine and feasted on its loveli- 
 ness, but we could only tip over the dizzy ridge that overhangs 
 the valley, and laboriously descend into its heat and silence. 
 The track is as steep and broken as that which goes up from 
 hence, but not nearly so narrow, and without its elements of 
 terror, for kukuis, lauhalas, ohias, and ti trees, with a lavish 
 growth of ferns and trailers, grow luxuriantly in every damp 
 
LETTER XVI.] OUT OF THE WORLD. 
 
 157 
 
 rift of rock, and screen from view the precipices of the pali. 
 The valley looks as if it could only be reached in a long day's 
 travel, so very far it is below, but the steepness of the track 
 makes it accessible in an hour from the summit. As we de- 
 scended, houses and a church which had looked like toys at 
 first, dilated on our sight, the silver ribbon became a stream, 
 the specks on the meadows turned into horses, the white, wavy 
 line on the Pacific beach turned into a curling wave, and lower 
 still, I saw people, who had seen us coming down, hastily 
 shuffling into clothes. 
 
 There were four houses huddled between the pali and the 
 river, and six or eight, with a church and schoolhouse on the 
 other side ;. and between these and the ocean a steep, narrow 
 beach, composed of large stones worn as round and smooth as 
 cannon balls, on which the surf roars the whole year round. 
 The /«// which walls in the valley on the other side is inacces- 
 sible. The school children and a great part of the population 
 had assembled in front of the house which I described before. 
 There was a sort of dyke of rough lava stones round it, difficult 
 to climb, but the natives, though they are very kind, did not, 
 on this or any similar occasion, offer me any help, which 
 neglect, I suppose, arises from the fact that the native women 
 never need help, as they are as strong, fearless, and active as 
 the men, and rival them in swimming and other athletic sports. 
 An old man, clothed only with his dark skin, was pounding 
 baked kalo iox poi, in front of the house ; a woman with flowers 
 in her hair, but apparently not otherwise clothed, was wading 
 up to her waist in the river, pushing before her a light trumpet- 
 shaped basket used for catching shrimps, and the other women 
 wore the usual bright-coloured chemises. 
 
 I wanted to make the most of the six hours of daylight left, 
 and we remounted our horses and rode for some distance up 
 the river, which is the highway of the valley, all the children 
 swimming on our right and left, each holding up a bundle of 
 clothes with one hand, and two canoes paddled behind us. 
 The river is still and clear, with a smooth bottom, but comes 
 halfway up a horse's body, and riders take their feet out of the 
 stirrups, bring them to a level with the saddle, lean slightly 
 back, and hold them against the horse's neck. Equestrians 
 following this fashion, canoes ghding, children and dogs swim- 
 ming, were a most amusing picture. Several of the children 
 swim to and from school every day. I was anxious to get rid 
 of this voluntary escort, and we took a gallop over the springy 
 
158 ffA WAIL [letter XVI. 
 
 grass till we readied some very pretty grass houses, under the 
 shade of the most magnificent bread-fruit trees on Hawaii, loaded 
 with fruit. There were orange trees in blossom, and coffee 
 trees with masses of sweet white flowers lying among their 
 flaky branches like snow, and the unfailing cocoa-nut rising out 
 of banana groves, and clusters of gardenia smothering the red 
 hibiscus. Here Hananui adopted a showman's air ; he made 
 me feel as if I were one of Barnum's placarded monsters. I 
 had nothing to do but sit on my horse and be stared at. I felt 
 that my bleached face was unpleasing, that my eyes and hair 
 were faded, and that I had a great deal to answer for in the 
 way of colour and attire. From the way in which he asked me 
 unintelligible questions, I gathered that the people were cate- 
 chizing him about me, and that he was romancing largely at 
 my expense. They brought me some bananas and cocoa-nut 
 milk, which were most refreshing. 
 
 Beyond the houses the valley became a jungle of Indian shot 
 iCanna indica), eight or nine feet high, guavas and ohias, with 
 an entangled undergrowth of ferns rather diflScult to pene- 
 trate, and soon Hananui, whose soul was hankering after the 
 delights of society, stopped, saying, " Lios (horses) no go." 
 " We'll try," I replied, and rode on first. He sat on his horse 
 laughing immoderately, and then followed me. I see that in 
 travelhng with natives it is essential to have a definite plan of 
 action in one's own mind, and to verge on self-assertion in 
 carrying it out. We fought our way a little further, and then 
 he went out of sight altogether in the jungle, his horse having 
 floundered up to his girths in soft ground, on which we dis- 
 mounted and tethered the horses. H. had never been any 
 further, and as I failed to make him understand that I desired 
 to visit the home of the five cascades, I had to reverse our 
 positions and act as guide. We crept along the side of a 
 torrent among exquisite trees, moss, and ferns, till we came to 
 a place where it divided. There were three horses tethered 
 there, some wearing apparel lying on the rocks, and some 
 human footprints along one of the streams, which decided me 
 in favour of the other. H. remonstrated by signs, as doubt- 
 less he espied an opportunity for much gossip in the other 
 direction, but on my appearing persistent, he again laughed and 
 followed me. 
 
 From this point it was one perfect, rapturous, intoxicating, 
 supreme vision of beauty, and I felt, as I now believe, that at 
 last I had reached a scene on which foreign eyes had never 
 
LETTER XVI.] LIVING WATERS. 159 
 
 looked. The glories of the tropical forest closed us in with 
 their depth, colour, and redundancy. Here the operations of 
 nature are rapid and decisive. A rainfall of eleven feet in a 
 year and a hothouse temperature force every plant into cease- 
 less activity, and make short work of decay. Leafage, blossom, 
 fruitage, are simultaneous and perennial. The river, about as 
 broad as the Cam at Cambridge, leaped along, clear like 
 amber, pausing to rest awhile in deep bright pools, where fish 
 were sporting above the golden sand, a sparkling, rushing, 
 terrorless stream, " without mysteries or agonies," broken by 
 rocks, green with mosses and fragile ferns, and in whose un- 
 chilled waters, not more than three feet deep, wading was both 
 safe and pleasant. It was not possible to creep along its 
 margin, the forest was so dense and tangled, so we waded the 
 whole way, and wherever the water ran fiercely my unshod 
 guide helped me. One varied, glorious maze of vegetation 
 came down to it, and every green thing leant lovingly towards 
 it, or stooped to touch it, and over its whole magic length was 
 arched and interlaced the magnificent large-leaved ohia, whose 
 millions of spikes of rose-crimson blossoms lit up the whole 
 arcade, and the light of the afternoon sun slanted and trickled 
 through them, dancing in the mirthful water, turning its far- 
 down sands to gold, and brightening the many-shaded greens 
 of candlenut and breadfruit. It shone on majestic fern-trees, 
 on the fragile Polypodium tamariscinum, which clung trem- 
 blingly to the branches of the ohia, on the beautiful lygodium, 
 which adorned the uncouth trunk of the breadfruit ; on shining 
 banana leaves and glossy, trailing yams; on gigantic lianas, 
 which, chmbing to the tops of the largest trees, descended in 
 vast festoons, passing from tree to tree, and interlacing the 
 forest with a living network ; and on lycopodiums of every 
 kind, from those which wrapped the rocks in feathery green to 
 others hardly distinguishable from ferns. But there were twi- 
 light depths too, where no sunlight penetrated the leafy gloom, 
 damp and cool : dreamy shades, in which the music of the 
 water was all too sweet, and the loveliness too entrancing, 
 creating that sadness, hardly " akin to pain," which is latent in 
 all intense enjoyment. Here and there a tree had fallen 
 across the river, from which grew upwards and trailed 
 downwards, fairy-like, semi-transparent mosses and ferns, all 
 glittering with moisture and sunshine, and now and then a 
 scarlet tropic bird heightened the effect by the flash of his 
 plumage. 
 
l6o HAWAII. [letter XVI. 
 
 After an hour of wading we emerged into broad sunny day- 
 light at the home of the five cascades, which fall from a semi- 
 circular precipice into three basins. It is not, however, 
 possible to pass from one to the other. This great gulf is a 
 grand sight, with its dark deep basin from which it seemed so 
 far to look up to the heavenly blue, and the water falling 
 calmly and unhurriedly, amidst innumerable rainbows, from a 
 height of 3000 feet. The sides were draped with ferns 
 flourishing under the spray, and at the base the rock was very 
 deeply caverned. I enjoyed a delicious bath, relying on sun 
 and wind to dry my clothes, and then reluctantly waded down 
 the river. At its confluence with another stream, still arched 
 by oMas, a man and two women appeared rising out of the 
 water, like a vision of the elder world in the days of Fauns, 
 and Naiads, and Hamadryads. The water was up to their 
 waists, and lets of ohia blossoms and ferns, and masses of 
 unbound hair fantastically wreathed with moss, fell over their 
 faultless forms, and their rich brown skin gleamed in the 
 slant sunshine. They were catching shrimps with trumpet- 
 shaped baskets, perhaps rather a prosaic occupation. They 
 joined us, and we waded down together to the place where they 
 had left their horses. The women slipped into their holokus, 
 and the man insisted on my riding his barebacked horse to the 
 place where we had left our own, and then we all galloped over 
 the soft grass. 
 
 Waimanu had turned out to meet us about thirty people on 
 horseback, all of whom shook hands with me, and some of 
 them threw over me garlands of ohta, pandanus, and hibiscus. 
 Where our cavalcade entered the river, a number of children 
 and dogs and three canoes awaited us, and thus escorted I 
 returned triumphantly to the house. The procession on the 
 river of paddhng canogs, swimming children and dogs, and 
 more than thirty riders, with their feet tucked up round their 
 horses' necks, all escorting a " pale face," was grotesque and 
 enchanting, and I revelled in this lapse into savagery, and en- 
 joyed heartily the kindliness and goodwill of this unsophisticated 
 people. 
 
 When darkness spread over the valley, clear voices ascended 
 in a weird recitative, the room filled up with people, pipes 
 circulated freely, pot was again produced, and calabashes of 
 cocoa-nut milk. The viUkes were long, and I crept within my 
 curtain and lay down, but the drowsiness which legitimately 
 came over me after riding thirty miles and wading two, was 
 
LETTER XVI.] A MIDNIGHT STROIL. i6i 
 
 broken in upon by two monstrous cockroaches really as large 
 as mice, with fierce-looking antennee and prominent eyes, both 
 of which mounted guard on my pillow. On rising to drive 
 them away, I found to my dismay that they were but the 
 leaders of a host, which only made a temporary retreat, rust- 
 ling over the mat and dried grass with the crisp tread of 
 mice, and scaring away sleep for some hours. Worse than 
 these were the mosquitos, also an imported nuisance, which 
 stabbed and stung without any preliminary droning ; and the 
 heat was worse still, for thirteen human beings were lying on 
 the floor and the door was shut. Had I known that two of 
 these were lepers, I should have felt far from comfortable. As 
 it was, I got up soon after midnight, and cautiously stepping 
 among the sleeping forms, went out of doors. Everything fa- 
 voured reflection, but I think the topics to which my mind 
 most frequently reverted were my own absolute security — a 
 lone white woman among " savages," and the civilizing in- 
 fluence which Christianity has exercised, so that even in this. 
 isolated valley, gouged out of a mountainous coast, there was 
 nothing disagreeable or improper to be seen. The night was. 
 very still, but the sea was moaning; the river rippled very 
 gently as it brushed past the reeds ; there was a hardly per- 
 ceptible vibration in the atmosphere, which suggested falling, 
 water and quivering leaves ; and the air was full of a heavy,, 
 drowsy fragrance, the breath of orange flowers, perhaps, and! 
 of the night-blowing Cereus, which had opened its ivory 
 urn to the moon. I should have liked to stay out all night 
 in the vague, delicious moonlight, but the dew was heavy,, 
 and moreover I had not any boots on, so I reluctantly re- 
 turned to the grass house, which was stifling with heat and 
 smells of cocoa-nut oil, tobacco, and the rancid smoke from 
 beef fat. 
 
 Before sunrise this morning my horse was saddled, and a. 
 number of natives had assembled. Hananui had disappeared, 
 but the man who lent me his bare-backed horse yesterday was 
 ready to act as guide. My boots could not then be found, sO' 
 I adopted the native fashion of riding with bare feet. We 
 again rode up the river in that slow and solemn fashion in, 
 which horses walk in water, galloped over a stretch of grass, 
 crossed a bright stream several times, and then entered a dense- 
 jungle of Indian shot, plantains, and sadlerias, with bread- 
 fruit, kukui, and ohia rising out of it. There were thousands, 
 of plantains, a fruit resembling the banana, but that it requires- 
 
i62 HA WAIT. [letter xvi. 
 
 cooking. The Indian shot, the yellow-blossomed variety, was 
 of a gigantic size. Its hard, black seeds put into a bladder 
 furnish the chic-chac, which in many places is used as an ac- 
 companiment to the utterly abominable and heathenish tom- 
 tom. Here guavas as large as oranges and as yellow as lemons 
 ripened and fell unheeded. Sometimes deep down we heard 
 the rush of water, and Paalau got down and groped for it on 
 his hands and knees ; sometimes we heard a noise as of hip- 
 popotami, but nothing could be seen but the tips of ears, as a 
 herd of happy, unbroken horses, scared by our approach, 
 crashed away through the jungle. Clear rapid streams, fern- 
 fringed, sometimes offered us a few yards of highway, but the 
 jungle ever grew more dense, the forest trees larger, the lianas 
 more tangled, the streams more sunk and rocky, and though 
 the horses shut their eyes and boldly pushed through the 
 tangle, we were fairly foiled when within half a mile from the 
 head of the valley. I thoroughly appreciated the unsightly 
 leather guards which are here used to cover the stirrups and 
 feet, as without them I could not have ridden ten yards. We 
 were so hemmed in that it was difficult to dismount, but I 
 bound some wild kalo leaves round my feet, and managed to 
 get over some broken rock to a knoll, from which I obtained 
 a superb view of the wonderful cleft. Palis 3000 feet in height 
 walled in its head with a complete inaccessibility. It lay in 
 cool dewy shadow till the sudden sun flushed its precipices 
 with pink, and a broad bar of light revealed the great chasm 
 in which it terminates, while far off its portals opened upon the 
 red eastern sky. This little, lonely world had become so very 
 dear to me, that I found it hard to leave it. 
 
 There was some stir near the sea, for a man was about to 
 build a grass house, and they were preparing a stone pavement 
 for it. Thirty people sat on the ground in a line from the 
 beach, and passed stones from hand to hand, as men pass 
 buckets at a fire. It seemed a very attractive occupation, and 
 I could hardly get Hananui to leave it. The natives are most 
 gregarious and social in their habits. They assemble together 
 for everything that has to be made or done, and the occupa- 
 tions and amusements are shared by both sexes. In old days 
 it is said that a king of Hawaii assembled most of the adults of 
 the then populous island, and formed a human chain three 
 miles long to pass up stones for the building of the great Heiau 
 in Kona. It is said that this valley had 2000 inhabitants forty 
 years ago, but they have dwindled to 117. The former esti- 
 
LETTER XVI.] A STAGNANT LIFE. 163 
 
 mate is probably not an excessive one, for nearly the whole 
 valley is suitable for the culture of kalo, and a square mile of 
 halo will feed 15,000 natives for a yeai'. 
 
 Two women were shrimping in the river, the children were 
 swimming to school, blue smoke curled up into the still air, 
 kalo was baking among the stones, and a group of women sat 
 sewing and making leis on the ground. The Waimanu day 
 had begun ; and it was odd to think that through the long 
 summer years days dawned like this, and that the people of 
 the valley grew grey and old in shrimping and sewing and 
 kalo baking. All Waimanu shook hands with me, the kindly 
 ■" Aloha " filled the air, and the women threw garlands over us 
 both. I could hardly induce my host to accept a dollar and a 
 half for my entertainment. From the dizzy summit of thtpali, 
 where the sun was high and hot, I looked my last on the dark, 
 cool valley, slumbering in an endless calm, the deepest, 
 greenest, quaintest cleft on all the island. 
 
 The sun was fierce and bright, the ocean had a metallic 
 glint, the hot breath of the ko?ia was scorching. My hands, 
 swollen from mosquito bites, could not be stuffed into my 
 gloves, and inflamed under the sun, and my wet boots baked 
 and stiffened on my feet. Hananui plaited a crown of leaves 
 for my hot head, which I found a great relief I was still 
 minded to linger, for one side of each glorious gulch was cool 
 with shadow and dripping with dew. The blue morning 
 glories were yet unwilted, rivulets dropped down into ferny 
 grottoes and lingered there, rose ohia blossoms lighted shady 
 places, orange flowers gleamed like stars amidst the dense 
 leafage, and the crimped-leaved coffee shrubs were white with 
 their mimic snow. It was my last tropical dream, and I was 
 rudely roused by finding myself on the unsightly verge of the 
 great bluff' on the north side of this valley, which plunges to 
 the sea with an uncompromising perpendicular dip of 2000 
 feet, and carries on its dizzy brow a shelving trail not more 
 than two feet wide ! 
 
 I felt that I must go back and live and die in Waimanu 
 rather than descend that scathed steep, and being stupid with 
 terror flung myself from my horse, forgetting that it was much 
 safer to trust to his four feet than to my two, and to an animal 
 without " nerves," dizziness, or " the fore-knowledge of death," 
 than to my palsied, cowardly self I had intended to go into 
 details of the horrible descent, but the "J>ilikia " is over now, 
 
 M 2 
 
164 HAWAII. [letter xvr, 
 
 and Halemanu claps me on the shoulder with an approving 
 smile, ejaculating, " Maikai, maikai " (good). Besides, my re- 
 turning senses inform me that I have not tasted food since 
 yesterday, and some delicious river fishes are smoking on the 
 table 
 
 I, L B. 
 
LETTER XVII. 
 
 Beautiful Lahaina ! — The Leper Island — Sister Phosbe — A Family School 
 — Gentle Discipline — Local Difficulties. 
 
 Str. IOlauea. 
 
 . . . I HAVE been spending the day at Lahaina on Maui, 
 on my way from Kawaihae to Honolulu. Lahaina is thoroughly 
 beautiful and tropical looking, with its white latticed houses 
 peeping out from under coco palms, breadfruit, candlenut, 
 tamarinds, mangoes, bananas, and oranges, with the brilliant 
 green of a narrow strip of sugar-cane for a background, and 
 above, the flushed mountains of Eeka, riven here and there by 
 cool green chasms, rise to a height of 6000 feet. Beautiful 
 Lahaina ! It is an oasis in a dazzling desert, straggling for 
 nearly two miles along the shore, but compressed into a width 
 of half a mile. It was a great missionary centre, as well as a 
 great whaling station, but the whalers have deserted it, and 
 missions are represented now only by the seminary of La- 
 hainaluna on the hillside. An old palace, the remains of a fort, 
 a custom-house, and a native church are the most conspicuous 
 buildings. The stores and dwellings of the foreign residents 
 are scattered along the shore, and the light frame house, with 
 its green verandah, buried amid gorgeous exotics and shaded 
 by candlenut and breadfruit, looks as seemly and in keeping as 
 in far-off Massachusetts, under hickory and elm. The grass 
 houses of the natives cluster along the waters' edge, or in lanes 
 dark with mangoes and bananas, and fragrant with gardenia 
 fringing the cane-fields. These, with adobe houses and walls, 
 the flush of the soil, the gaudy dresses of the natives, the 
 masses of brilliant exotics, the intense blue of the sea, and the 
 dry blaze of the tropical heat, give a decided individuality to 
 the capital of Maui. The heat of Lahaina is a dry, robust, 
 bracing, joyous heat. The mercury stood at 80°, the usual 
 temperature of the " flare" or sea level on the leeward side of 
 the islands ; but I strolled through the cane-fields and along 
 the glaring beach without suffering the least inconvenience from 
 
j65 HAWAII. [LETTER xvir. 
 
 the sun, and found the unusual precaution of a white umbrella 
 perfectly needless. 
 
 The beach is formed of pure white broken coral ; the sea is 
 blue with the calm, pure blue of turquoise, but crystalline in its 
 purity, and breaks for ever over the environing coral reef with a 
 low deep music. Blue water stretched to the far horizon, the 
 sky was blazing blue, the leafage was almost dazzling to the 
 eye, the mountainous island of Molokai floated like a great 
 blue morning glory on the yet bluer sea; a sweet, soft breeze 
 rustled through the palms, lazy ripples plashed lightly on the 
 sand ; humanity basked, flower-clad, in sunny indolence ; every- 
 thing was redundant, fervid, beautiful. How can I make you 
 realize the glorious, bountiful, sun-steeped tropics under our 
 cold grey skies, and amidst our pale, monotonous, lustreless 
 greens ? 
 
 Yet Molokai is only enchanting in the distance, for its blue 
 petals enfold 400 lepers doomed to endless isolation, and 300 
 more are shortly to be weeded out and sent thither. In to- 
 day's paper appeared the painful notice, " All lepers are re- 
 quired to report themselves to the Government health ofiicer 
 withj'ii fourteen days from this date for inspection, and final 
 banj-jhment to Molokai." It is' hoped that leprosy may be 
 " stamped out " by these stringent measures, but the leprous 
 taint must be strong in many families, and the social, gregarious 
 natives smoke each other's pipes and wear each other's clothes, 
 and either from fatalism or ignorance have disregarded all pre- 
 cautions regarding this woful disease ; and now that measures 
 are being taken for the isolation of lepers, they are concealing 
 them under mats and in caves and woods. This forlorn 
 malady, called here Chinese leprosy, in the cases that I have 
 seen, confers nothing of the white, scaly look attributed to 
 Syrian leprosy ; but the face is red, puffed, bloated, and shining, 
 and the eyes glazed, and I am told that in its advanced stage 
 the swollen limbs decay and drop off. It is a fresh item of 
 the infinite curse which has come upon this race, and with 
 Molokai in sight the Hesperides vanished, and I ceased to be- 
 lieve that the Fortunate Islands exist here or elsewhere on this 
 weary earth. 
 
 My destination was the industrial training and boarding 
 school for girls, taught and superintended by two English ladies 
 of Miss Sellon's sisterhood. Sisters Mary Clara and Phoebe ; 
 and I found it buried under the shade of the finest candlenut 
 trees I have yet seen. A rude wooden cross in front is a touch- 
 
LETTER XVII.] ENGLISH EDUCATION. 167 
 
 ing and fitting emblem of the Saviour, for whom these pious 
 women have sacrificed friends, sympathy, and the social inter- 
 course and amenities which are within daily reach of our 
 workers at home. The large house, which is either plastered 
 stone or adobe, contains the dormitories, visitors' room, and 
 oratory, and three houses at the back, all densely shaded, are 
 used as schoolroom, cook-house, laundry, and refectory. There 
 is a playground under some fine tamarind trees, and an adobe 
 wall encloses, without secluding, the whole. The visitors' room 
 is about twelve feet by eight feet, very bare, with a deal table 
 and three chairs in it, but it was vacant, and I crossed to the 
 large, shady, airy schoolroom, where I found the senior sister 
 engaged in teaching, while the junior was busy in the cook-, 
 house. These ladies in eight years have never left Lahaina. 
 Other people may think it necessary to leave its broiling heat, 
 and seek health and recreation on the mountains, but their work 
 has left them no leisure, and their zeal no desire, for a holiday. 
 A very solid, careful English education is given here, as well as 
 a thorough training in all housewifely arts, and in the more im- 
 portant matters of modest dress and deportment, and propriety 
 in language. There are thirty-seven boarders, native and half- 
 native, and mixed native and Chinese, between the ages of four 
 and eighteen. They provide their own clothes, beds, and 
 bedding, and I think pay forty dollars a year. The capitation 
 grant from Government for two years was 2325 dollars. Sister 
 Phcebe was my cicerone, and I owe her one of the pleasantest 
 days I have spent on the islands. The elder Sister is in 
 middle life, but though fragile-looking, has a pure com- 
 plexion and a lovely countenance; the younger is scarcely 
 middle-aged, one of the brightest, bonniest, sweetest-look- 
 ing women I ever saw, with fun dancing in her eyes and 
 round the corners of her mouth ; yet the regnant expression on 
 both faces was serenity, as though they had attained to " the 
 love which looketh kindly, and the wisdom which looketh 
 soberly on all things." 
 
 I never saw such a mirthful-looking set of girls. Some were 
 cooking the dinner, some ironing, others reading English aloud ; 
 but each occupation seemed a pastime, and whenever they spoke 
 to the Sisters they clung about them as if they were their 
 mothers. I heard them read the Bible and an historical lesson, 
 as well as play on a piano and sing, and they ^vrote some very 
 difficult passages from dictation without any errors, and in a 
 flowing, legible handwriting that I am disposed to envy. Their 
 
i68 HA WAIL [LETTER xvir. 
 
 accent and intonation were pleasing, and there was a briskness 
 and emulation about their style of answering questions, rarely- 
 found in country schools with us, significant of intelligence and 
 good teaching. All but the younger girls spoke English as 
 fluently as Hawaiian. I cannot convey a notion of the blithe- 
 ness and independence of manner of these children. To say 
 that they were free and easy would be wrong ; it was rather the 
 manner of very frolicksome daughters to very indulgent mothers 
 or aunts. It was a family manner rather than a school manner, 
 and the rule is obviously one of love. The Sisters are very 
 wise in adapting their discipline to the native character and 
 circumstances. The rigidity which is customary in similar in- 
 stitutions at home would be out of place, as well as fatal here, 
 and would ultimately lead to a rebound of a most injurious 
 description. Strict obedience is of course required, but the 
 rules are few and lenient, and there is no more pressure of dis- 
 cipline than in a well-ordered family. The native amusements 
 generally are objectionable, but Hawaiians are a dancing 
 people, and will dance, or else indulge in less innocent pas- 
 times ; so the Sisters have taught them various English dances, 
 and I never saw anything prettier or more graceful than their 
 style of dancing. There is no uniform dress. The girls 
 wear pretty print frocks, made in the English style, and several 
 of them wore the hibiscus in their shining hair. Some of the 
 elder girls were beautiful in face as well as graceful in figure, 
 but there was a snaky undulation about their movements which 
 I never saw among Europeans. All looked bubbling over with 
 fun and frolic, and there was a refinement and intelligence 
 about their expression which contrasted favourably with that of 
 the ordinary female face on the islands. 
 
 There are two dormitories, excellently ventilated, with a 
 four-post bed, with mosquito-bars, for each girl, and the beds 
 were covered with those brilliant-coloured quilts in which the 
 natives delight, and in which they exercise considerable in- 
 genuity as well as individuality of taste. One Sister sleeps in 
 each dormitory, and these highly-educated and refined women 
 have no place of retirement except a very plain oratory ; and 
 liaving taken the vow of poverty, they have of course no pos- 
 sessions, none of the books, pictures, and knick-knacks where- 
 with others adorn their surroundings. Their whole lives, with 
 the exception of the time passed in the oratory, are spent with 
 the girls, and in visiting the afflicted at their homes, and this 
 through eight blazing years, with the mercury always at 80°. 
 
LETTER XVII.] TRIALS OF THE SISTERS. 169 
 
 The Hawaiian women have no notions of virtue as we un- 
 derstand it, and if there is to be any future for this race it must 
 come through a higher morahty. Consequently the removal of 
 these girls from evil and impure surroundings, the placing them 
 under the happiest influences in favour of purity and goodness, 
 the forming and fostering of industrious and housewifely habits, 
 and the raising them in their occupations and amusements 
 above those which are natural to their race, are in themselves 
 a noble, and in some degree, a hopeful work, but it admits of 
 neither pause nor relaxation. Those who carry it on are truly 
 " the lowest in the meanest task," for they have undertaken not 
 only the superintendence of menial work (so called), but the 
 work itself, in teaching by example and instruction the womanly 
 industries of home. They have no society, until lately no 
 regular Liturgical worship, and of necessity a very infrequent 
 celebration of the Holy Communion ; and they have under- 
 gone the trial which arose very naturally out of the ecclesi- 
 astical relations of the American missionaries, of being regarded 
 as enemies, or at least dangerous interlopers, by the excellent 
 men who had long resided on the islands as Christian teachers, 
 and with whose views on such matters as dress and recreation 
 their own are somewhat at variance. In the first instance, the 
 habit they wore, their designations, the presence of Miss Sellon, 
 the fame of whose Ritualistic tendencies had reached the 
 islands, and their manifest connection with a section of the 
 English Church which is regarded here with peculiar disfavour, 
 roused a strongly antagonistic feeling regarding their work and 
 the drift of their religious teaching. They are not connected 
 with the " Honolulu Mission." "' 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
 * It gives me pleasure to add that the Sisters have lived down this very- 
 natural distrust, and that in a subsequent residence of five months on the 
 islands, I only heard one opinion, and that of the most favourable kind, 
 regarding the Lahaina School, and the excellence and wisdom of the 
 manner in which it is conducted. I have been told by many who on most 
 points are quite out of sympathy with the Sisters, not only that their work 
 is recognized as a most valuable agency, but that their influence has come 
 to be regarded as among the chiefest of the blessings of Lahaina. 
 
LETTER XVIII. 
 
 Social Hurry — A Perfect Climate — Honolulu "Lions" — Queen Emma — 
 A Royal Garden Party— Dwindling of the Native Population — Coinage 
 and Newspapers. 
 
 Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu, March zoth. 
 
 Oahu, with its grey pinnacles, deep valleys, cool chasms, 
 ruddy headlands, and volcanic cones, all clothed in green by 
 the recent rains, looked unspeakably lovely as we landed by 
 sunrise in a rose-flushed atmosphere, and Honolulu, shady, 
 dew-bathed, and brilliant with flowers, deserved its name, 
 " The Paradise of the Pacific." The hotel is pleasant, and 
 Mrs. D.'s presence makes it sweet and home-like; but in a 
 very few days I have lost much of the health I gained on 
 Hawaii, and the " Rolling Moses " and the Rocky Mountains 
 can hardly come too soon. For Honolulu is truly a metropolis, 
 gay, hospitable, and restless, and this hotel centralizes the rest- 
 lessness. Visiting begins at breakfast time, when it ends I 
 know not, and receiving and making visits, court festivities, 
 entertainments given by the commissioners of the great powers, 
 riding parties, picnics, verandah parties, '" sociables," and 
 luncheon and evening parties on board the ships ■ of war, suc- 
 ceed each other with frightful rapidity. This is all on the sur- 
 face, but beneath and better than this is a kindness which 
 leaves no stranger to a sense of loneliness, no want uncared 
 for, and no sorrow unalleviated. This, more than its beauty 
 and its glorious climate, makes Honolulu " Paradise " for the 
 many who arrive here sick and friendless. I notice that the 
 people are very intimate with each other, and generally address 
 each other by their Christian names. Very many are the de- 
 scendants of the clerical and secular members of the mission, 
 and these, besides being naturally intimate, are further drawn 
 and held together by a society called " The Cousins' Society," 
 the objects of which are admirable. The people take an in- 
 tense interest in each other, and love each other unusually. 
 Possibly they hate each other as cordially when occasion offers. 
 
LETTER xvni.] A PERFECT CLIMATE. 171 
 
 It is a charming town, and the society is delightful. I wish I 
 were well enough to enjoy it. 
 
 For people in the early stages of consumption this climate is 
 perfect, owing to its equability, as also for bronchial affections. 
 Unlike the health resorts of the Mediterranean, Algeria, Ma- 
 deira, and Florida, where great summer heats or an unhealthy 
 season compel half-cured invalids to depart in the spring, to 
 return the next winter with fresh colds to begin the half-cure 
 process again, people can live here until they are completely 
 cured, as the climate is never unhealthy, and never too hot. 
 Though the regular trades, which blow for nine months of the 
 year, have not yet set in, and the mercury stands at 80°, there 
 is no sultriness ; a sea breeze and a mountain breeze fan the 
 town, and the purple nights, when the stars hang out like 
 lamps, and the moon gives a light which is almost golden, are 
 cool and delicious. Roughly computed, the annual mean 
 temperature is 75° 55', with a divergence in either direction of 
 only 7° 55'. As a general rule the temperature is cooler by four 
 degrees for every thousand feet of altitude, so that people can 
 choose their climate to suit themselves without leaving the 
 islands. 
 
 I am gradually learning a little of the topography of this 
 island and of Honolulu, but the last is very intricate. The ap- 
 pearance of Oahu from the sea is deceptive. It looks hardly 
 larger than Arran, but it is really forty-six miles long by twenty- 
 five broad, and is 530 square miles in extent. Diamond Hill, 
 or Leahi, is the most prominent object south of the town, be- 
 yond the palm groves of Waikiki. It is red and arid, except 
 when, as now, it is verdure-tinged by recent rains. Its height 
 is 760 feet, and its crater nearly as deep, but its cone is rapidly 
 diminishing. Some years ago, when the enormous quantity of 
 thirty-six inches of rain fell in one week, the degradation of 
 both exterior and interior was something incredible, and the 
 same process is being carried on slowly or rapidly at all times. 
 The Punchbowl, immediately behind Honolulu, is a crater of 
 the same kind, but of yet more brilliant colouring : so red is it 
 indeed, that one might suppose that its fires had just died out. 
 In 1786 an observer noted it as being composed of high peaks; 
 but atmospheric influences have reduced it to the appearance of 
 a ' single wasting tufa cone, similar to those which stud the 
 northern slopes of Mauna Kea. There are a number of shore 
 craters on the island, and six groups of tufa cones, but from 
 the disintegration of the lava, and the great depth of the soil 
 
172 JIA WAIL [letter xviii. 
 
 in many places, it is supposed that volcanic action ceased 
 earlier than on Maui or Hawaii. The shores are mostly fringed 
 with coral reefs, often half a mile in width, composed of 
 cemented coral fragments, shells, sand, and a growing species 
 of zoophyte. The ancient reefs are elevated thirty, forty, and 
 even loo feet in some places, forming barriers which have 
 changed lagoons into solid ground. Honolulu was a bay or 
 lagoon, protected from the sea by a coral reef a mile wide ; but 
 the elevation of this reef twenty-five feet has furnished a site 
 for the capital, by converting the bay into a low but beautifully 
 situated plain. 
 
 The mountainous range behind is a rocky wall with outlying 
 ridges, valleys of great size cutting the mountain to its core on 
 either side, until the culminating peaks of Waiolani and Kona- 
 huanui, 4000 feet above the sea, seem as if rent in twain to 
 form the Nuuanu Valley. The windward side of this range is 
 fertile, and is dotted over with rice and sugar plantations, but 
 the leeward side has not a trace of the redundancy of the tro- 
 pics, and this very barrenness gives a unique charm to the 
 exotic beauty of Honolulu. 
 
 It is daily a fresh pleasure to stroll along the shady streets 
 and revel among palms and bananas, to see clusters of the 
 granadilla and night-blowing Cereus mixed with the double blue 
 pea, tumbling over walls and fences, while the vermilion flowers 
 of the Ponciana Regia, like spikes of red coral, and the flaring 
 magenta Bougainvillea (which is not a flower at all, but an auda- 
 cious freak of terminal leaves) light up the shade, and the pur- 
 ple-leaved Dracffina which Ave grow in pots for dinner-table 
 ornament, is as common as a weed. 
 
 Besides this hotel, and the handsome but exaggerated and 
 inappropriate Government buildings not yet finished, there are 
 few "imposing edifices" here. The tasteful but temporary 
 English Cathedral, the Kaiwaiaho Church, diminished once to 
 suit a dwindled population, but already too large again ; the 
 prison, a clean, roomy building, empty in the daytime, because 
 the convicts are sent out to labour on roads and public works ; 
 the Queen's Hospital for Curables, for which Queen Emma and 
 her husband became rnendicants in Honolulu ; the Court 
 House, a staring, unshaded building; and the lolani Palace, 
 almost exhaust the category. Of this last, little can be said, 
 except that it is appropriate and proportioned to a kingdom of 
 56,000 souls, which is more than can be said of the income of 
 the king, the salaries of the ministers, and some other things. 
 
LETTF.R XVIII.] QUEEN EMMA. 173 
 
 It Stands in pleasure-grounds of about an acre in extent, with a 
 fine avenue running through them, and is approached by a 
 flight of steps which leads to a tolerably spacious hall, decorated 
 in the European style. Portraits of Louis Philippe and his 
 queen, presented by themselves, and of the late Admiral 
 Thomas, adorn the walls. The Hawaiians have a profound 
 respect for this officer's memory, as it was through him that the 
 sovereignty of the islands was promptly restored to the native 
 rulers, after the infamous affair of its cession to England, as 
 represented by Lord George Paulet. There are also some orna- 
 mental vases and miniature copies of some of Thorwaldsen's 
 works. The throne-room takes up the left wing of the palace. 
 This unfortunately resembles a rather dreary drawing-room in 
 London or New York, and has no distinctive features except a 
 decorated chair, which is the Hawaiian throne. There is an 
 Hawaiian crown also, neither grand nor costly, but this I have 
 not seen. At present the palace is only used for state recep- 
 tions and entertainments, for the king is living at his private 
 residence of Haemoeipio, not far off. 
 
 Miss W. kindly introduced me to Queen Emma, or Kalele- 
 onalani, the widowed queen of Kamehameha IV., whom you 
 will remember as having visited England a few years ago, when 
 she received great attention. She has one-fourth of English 
 blood in her veins, but her complexion is fully as dark as if she 
 were of unmixed Hawaiian descent, and her features, though 
 refined by education and circumstances, are also Hawaiian ; 
 but she is a very pretty, as well as a very graceful woman. She 
 was brought up by Dr. Rooke, an English physician here, and 
 though educated at the American school for the children of 
 chiefs, is very English in her leanings and sympathies, an at- 
 tached member of the English Church, and an ardent supporter 
 of the " Honolulu Mission." Socially she is very popular, 
 and her exceeding kindness and benevolence, with her strongly 
 national feeling as an Hawaiian, make her much beloved by the 
 natives. 
 
 The winter palace, as her town house is called, is a large, 
 shady abode, like an old-fashioned New England house exter- 
 nally, but with two deep verandahs, and the entrance is on the 
 upper one. The lower floor seemed given up to attendants and 
 offices, and a native woman was ironing clothes under a tree. 
 Upstairs, the house is like a tasteful, English country house, 
 with a pleasant English look, as if its furniture and ornaments 
 had been gradually accumulating during a series of years, and 
 
174 HAWAII. [letter XVIII. 
 
 possessed individual histories and reminiscences, rather than as 
 if they had been ordered together as " plenishings " from 
 stores. Indeed, it is the most English-looking house I have 
 seen since I left home, except Bishopscourt at Melbourne. If 
 there were a bell I did not see it ; and we did not ring, for the 
 queen received us at the door of the drawing-room, which was 
 open. I had seen her before in European dress, driving a pair 
 of showy black horses in a stylish English phaeton ; but on 
 this occasion she was not receiving visitors formally, and was 
 indulging in wearing the native holoku, and her black wavy hair 
 was left to its own devices. She is rather below the middle 
 height, very young-looking for her age, which is thirty-seven, 
 and very graceful in her movements. Her manner is indeed 
 very fascinating from a combination of unconscious dignity 
 with ladylike simplicity. Her expression is sweet and gentle, 
 with the same look of sadness about her eyes that the king has, 
 but she has a brightness and archness of expression which give 
 z. great charm to her appearance. She has sorrowed much : 
 first, for the death, at the age of four, of her only child, the 
 Prince of Hawaii, who when dying was baptized into the 
 English Church by the name of Albert Edward, Queen Victoria 
 and the Prince of Wales being his sponsors ; and secondly, for 
 the premature death of her husband, to whom she was much 
 attached. She speaks English beautifully, only hesitating now 
 and then for the most correct form of expression. She spoke a 
 good deal and with great pleasure of England ; and described 
 Venice and the emotions it excited in her so admirably, that I 
 should like to have heard her describe all Europe. 
 
 A few days afterwards I went to a garden party at her 
 house. It was a very pretty sight, and the " everybody " of 
 Honolulu was there to the number of 250. I must describe it 
 
 for the benefit of , who persists in thinking that coloured 
 
 royalty must necessarily be grotesque. People arrived shortly 
 before sunset, and was received by Queen Emma, who sat on 
 the lawn, with her attendants about her, very simply dressed in 
 black silk. The king, at whose entrance the band played the 
 national anthem, stood on another lawn, where presentations 
 were made by the chamberlain ; and those who were already 
 acquainted with him had an opportunity for a few minutes' 
 conversation. He was dressed in a well-made black morning 
 suit, and wore the ribbon and star of the Austrian order of 
 Francis Joseph. His simplicity was atoned for by the super- 
 lative splendour of his suite ; the governor of Oahu, and the 
 
LETTER XVIII.] A GARDEN PARTY. 175 
 
 high chief Kalakaua, who was a rival candidate for the throne, 
 being conspicuously resplendent. The basis of the costume 
 appeared to be the Windsor uniform, but it was smothered with 
 epaulettes, cordons, and lace ; and each dignitary has a uniform 
 peculiar to his office, so that the display of gold lace was pro- 
 digious. The chiefs are so raised above the common people in 
 height, size, and general nobility of aspect, that many have 
 supposed them to be of a different race; and the alii who 
 represented the dwindled order that night were certainly superb 
 enough in appearance to justify the supposition. Beside their 
 splendour and stateliness, the forty officers of the English and 
 American war-ships, though all in full-dress uniform, looked 
 decidedly insignificant ; and I doubt not that the natives who 
 were assembled outside the garden railings in crowds were not 
 behind me in making invidious comparisons. 
 
 Chairs and benches were placed under the beautiful trees, 
 and people grouped themselves on these, and promenaded, 
 flirted, talked politics and gossip, or listened to the royal band, 
 which played at intervals, and played well. The dress of the 
 ladies, whether white or coloured, was both pretty and appro- 
 priate. Most of the younger women were in white, and wore 
 natural flowers in their hair ; and many of the elder ladies wore 
 black or coloured silks, with lace and trains. There were 
 several beautiful kis of the gardenia, which filled all the garden 
 -with their delicious odour. Tea and ices were handed round 
 on Sevres china by footmen and pages in appropriate liveries. 
 What a wonderful leap from calabashes and poi, vtalos and paus, 
 to this correct and tasteful civilization ! As soon as the brief, 
 amber twilight of the tropics was over, the garden was suddenly 
 illuminated by myriads of Chinese lanterns, and the effect was 
 bewitching. The upper suite of rooms was throvsTi open for 
 those who preferred dancing under cover ; but I think that the 
 greater part of the assemblage chose the shady walks and 
 purple night. Supper was served at eleven, and the party broke 
 up soon afterwards ; but I must confess that, charming as it 
 was, I left before eight, for society makes heavier demands on 
 my strength than the rough, open-air life of Hawaii. 
 
 The dwindling of the race is a most pathetic subject. Here 
 is a sovereign chosen amidst an outburst of popular enthusiasm, 
 with a cabinet, a legislature, and a costly and elaborate govern- 
 ing machinery, sufficient in Yankee phrase to " run " an empire 
 of several millions, and here are only 49,000 native Hawaiians ; 
 and if the decrease be not arrested, in a quarter of a centmy 
 
175 
 
 IIA WAU. 
 
 [letter XVIII. 
 
 there will not be an Hawaiian to govern. The chiefs, or alii, 
 are a nearly extinct order ; and, with a few exceptions, those 
 who remain are childless. In riding through Hawaii I came 
 
 A Hawaiian Lady. 
 
 everywhere upon traces of a once numerous population, where 
 the hill slopes are now only a wilderness of guava scrub, and upon 
 churches and school-houses all too large, while in some hamlets 
 the voices of young children were altogether wanting. This 
 nation, with its elaborate governmental machinery, its churches 
 and institutions, has to me the mournful aspect of a shrivelled 
 and wizened old man dressed in clothing much too big, the gar- 
 
LETTER xviii.] A PERISHING NATION. 177 
 
 ments of his once athletic and vigorous youth. Nor can I 
 divest myself of the idea that the laughing, flower-clad hordes 
 of riders who make the town gay mth their presence, are 
 but like butterflies fluttering out their short lives in the sun- 
 shine, 
 
 " . . . a wreck and residue. 
 Whose only business is to perisli." 
 
 The statistics on this subject are perfectly appalling. If we 
 reduce Captain Cook's estimate of the native population by 
 one-fourth it was 300,000 in 1779. In 1872 it was only 
 49,000. The first official census was in 1832, when the native 
 population was 130,000. This makes the decrease 80,000 in 
 forty years, or at the rate of 2000 a year, and fixes the period 
 for the final extinction of the race in 1897, if that rate were to 
 continue. It is a pity, for many reasons, that it is dying 
 out. It has shown a singular aptitude for politics and 
 civilization, and it would have been interesting to watch the 
 development of a strictly Polynesian monarchy starting under 
 passably fair conditions. Whites have conveyed to these shores 
 slow but infallible destruction on the one hand, and on the 
 other the knowledge of the hfe that is to come ; and the rival 
 influences of blessing and cursing have now been fifty years at 
 work, producing results with which most reading people are 
 familiar. 
 
 I have not heard the subject spoken of, but I should think 
 that the decrease in the population must cause the burden of 
 taxation to press heavily on that which remains. Kings, 
 cabinet ministers, an army, a police, a national debt, a supreme 
 court, and common schools, are costly luxuries or necessaries. 
 The civil list is ludicrously out of proportion to the resources 
 of the islands, and the heads of the four departments — Foreign 
 Relations, Interior, Finance, and Law (Attorney-General) — 
 receive $5000 a year each ! * Expenses and salaries have been 
 increasing for the last thirty years. For schools alone every 
 man between twenty-one and sixty pays a tax of two dollars 
 annually, and there is an additional general tax for the same 
 purpose. I suppose that there is not a better educated country 
 in the world. Education is compulsory ; and besides the pri- 
 mary schools, there are a number of academies, all under Go- 
 vernment supervision, and there are 324 teachers, or one for 
 
 * Tliese salaries have since been cut down to $4000, and the present 
 Legislature (1876) is contemplating a further reduction. 
 
 N 
 
178 HAWAII. [LE-ITER XVIII. 
 
 every twenty-seven children. There is a Board of Education, 
 and Kamakau, its president, reported to the last biennial ses- 
 sion of the legislature that out of 8931 children between the 
 ages of six and fifteen, 8287 were actually attending school ! 
 Among other direct taxes, every quadruped that can be called 
 a horse, above two years old, pays a dollar a year, and every 
 dog a dollar and a half. Does not all this sound painfully 
 civTlized ? If the influence of the tropics has betrayed me into 
 rhapsody and ecstacy in earlier letters, these dry details will 
 turn the scale in favour of prosaic sobriety ! 
 
 I have said little about Honolulu, except of its tropical 
 beauty. It does not look as if it had " seen better days." Its 
 wharves are well cared for, and its streets and roads are very 
 clean. The retail stores are generally to be found in two long 
 streets which run inland, and in a splay street which crosses 
 both. The upper storekeepers, with a few exceptions, are 
 Americans, but one street is nearly given up to Chin9,men's 
 stores, and one of the wealthiest and most honourable mer- 
 chants in the town is a Chinaman. There is an ice factory, 
 and icecreana is included in the daily bill of fare here, and iced 
 water is supplied without limit, but lately the rnachinery has 
 only worked in spasms, and the absence of ice is regarded as a 
 local calamity, though the water supplied from the water- 
 works is both cool and pure. There are two good photo- 
 graphers and two booksellers. I don't think that plate glass fronts 
 are yet to be seen. Many of the storekeepers employ native 
 " assistants ; " but the natives show little aptitude for mercantile 
 affairs, or indeed for the " splendid science " of money-making 
 generally, and in this respect contrast with the Chinamen, who, 
 having come here as coolies, have contrived to secure a large 
 share of the small traffic of the islands. Most things are ex- 
 pensive, but they are good. I have seen little of such decided 
 rubbish as is to be found in the cheap stores of London and 
 Edinburgh, except in tawdry artificial flowers. Good black 
 silks are to be bought, and are as essential to the equipment of 
 a lady as at home. Saddles are to be had at most of the 
 stores, from the elaborate Mexican and Californian saddle, 
 worth from 30 to 50 dollars, to a worthless imitation of the 
 English saddle, dear at five. Boots and shoes, perhaps be- 
 cause in this climate they are a mere luxury, are frightfully dear, 
 and so are books, vnriting paper, and stationery generally ; a 
 sheet of Bristol board, which we buy at home for bd., being 
 half a dollar here. But it is quite a pleasure to make pur- 
 
LETTER XVIII.] COINAGE AND NEWSPAPERS. 179 
 
 chases in the stores. There is so much cordiaHty and courtesy 
 that, as at this hotel, the bill recedes into the background, 
 and the purchaser feels the indebted party. 
 
 The money is extremely puzzling. These islands, like- Cali- 
 fornia, have repudiated greenbacks, and the only paper cur- 
 rency is a small number of treasury notes for large amounts. 
 The coin in circulation is gold and silver, but gold is scarce, 
 which is an inconvenience to people who have to carry a large 
 amount of money about with them. The coinage is nominally 
 that of the United States, but the dollars are Mexican, or French 
 5 franc pieces, and people speak of " rials" which have no ex- 
 istence here, and of "bits," a Californian slang term for i2|- 
 cents, a coin which to my knowledge does not exist anywhere. 
 A dime, or 10 cents, is the lowest coin I have seen, and copper 
 is not in circulation. An envelope, a penny bottle of ink, a 
 pencil, a spool of thread, cost i o cents each ; postage-stamps cost 
 2 cents each for inter-island postage, but one must buy five of 
 them, and dimes slip away quickly and imperceptibly. There 
 is a loss on English money, as half-a-crown only passes for a 
 half-dollar, sixpence for a dime, and so forth ; indeed, the 
 average loss seems to be about twopence in the shilling. 
 
 There are four newspapers : the Honolulu Gazette, the Pacific 
 Commercial Advertiser, Ka Nupepa Kuokoa (the " Independent 
 Press "), and a lately started spasmodic sheet, partly in English 
 and partly in Hawaiian, the Nuhmi, (News).* The two first 
 are moral and respectable, but indulge in the American sins of 
 personalities and mutual vituperation. The Niihoti is scurrilous 
 and diverting, and appears " run " with a special object, which 
 I have not as yet succeeded in unravelling from its pungent but 
 not always intelligible pages. I think perhaps the writing in 
 each paper has something of the American tendency to hysteria 
 and convulsions, though these maladies are mild as compared 
 with the " real thing " in the Alta California, which is largely 
 taken here. Besides these there are monthly sheets called The 
 Friend, the oldest paper in the Pacific, edited by good " Father 
 Damon," and the Church Messenger, edited by Bishop Willis, 
 partly devotional and partly devoted to the Honolulu Mission. 
 AH our popular American and English hterature is read here, 
 and I have hardly seen a table without " Scribner's " or " Har- 
 per's Monthly," or " Good Words." 
 
 I have lived far too much in America to feel myself a 
 
 * The Nuhou has since expired. 
 
I So HAWAII. [letter XVIII. 
 
 stranger where, as here, American influence and customs are 
 dominant ; but the English who are in Honolulu just now, in 
 transitu from New Zealand, complain bitterly of its "Yan- 
 keeism," and are very far from being at home, and I doubt not 
 
 that Mr. M , whom you will see, will not confirm my 
 
 favourable description. It is quite true that the islands are 
 Americanized, and with the exception of the Finance Minister, 
 who is a Scotchman, Americans " run " the Government and 
 fill the Chief Justiceship and other high offices of State. It is, 
 however, perfectly fair, for Americans have civilized and Chris- 
 tianized Hawaii-nei, and we have done little except make an 
 unjust and afterwards disavowed seizure of the islands. 
 
 On looking over this letter I find it an olla podrida of tropical 
 glories, royal festivities, finance matters, and odds and ends in 
 general. I dare say you will find it dull after my letters from 
 Hawaii, but there are others who will prefer its prosaic details 
 to Kilauea and Waimanu; and I confess that, amidst the 
 general lusciousness of tropical life, I myself enjoy the dryness 
 and tartness of statistics, and hard, uncoloured facts. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XIX. 
 
 Hawaiian Women — Tlie Honolulu Market — Annexation and Reciprocity 
 —A Probable Future— The " Rolling Moses." 
 
 Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu. 
 
 My latest news of you is five months old, and though I have 
 not the slightest expectation that I ^all hear from you, I go up 
 to the roof to look out for the " Rolling Moses " with more 
 impatience and anxiety than those whose business journeys are 
 being delayed by her non-arrival. If such an unlikely thing 
 were to happen as that she were to bring a letter, I should be 
 much tempted to stay five months longer on the islands rather 
 than try the climate of Colorado, for I have come to feel at 
 home, people are so very genial, and suggest so many plans for 
 my future enjoyment, the islands in their physical and social 
 aspects are so novel and interesting, and the climate is unrival- 
 led and restorative. 
 
 Honolulu has not yet lost the charm of novelty for me. I 
 am never satiated with its exotic beauties, and the sight of a 
 kaleidoscopic whirl of native riders is always fascinating. The 
 passion for riding, in a people who only learned equitation in 
 the last generation, is most curious. It is very curious, too, to 
 see women incessantly enjoying and amusing themselves in 
 riding, swimming, and making leis. They have few home ties 
 in the shape of children, and I fear make them fewer still by 
 neglecting them for the sake of riding and frolic, and man 
 seems rather the helpmeet than the " oppressor " of woman ; 
 though I believe that the women have abandoned that right of 
 choosing their husbands, which, it is said, that they exercised 
 in the old days. Used to the down-trodden look and harassed, 
 care-worn faces of the over-worked women of the same class at 
 home and in the colonies, the laughing, careless faces of the 
 Hawaiian women have the effect upon me of a perpetual marvel. 
 But the expression generally has little of the courteousness. 
 
1 82 
 
 HA WAIT. 
 
 ' [letter XIX. 
 
 innocence, and childishness of the negro physiognomy. The 
 Hawaiians are a handsome people, scornful and sarcastic-look- 
 ing even with their mirthfulness ; and those who know them say 
 
 Natives of Honolulu. 
 
 that they are always quizzing and mimicking the haoles, and 
 that they give every one a nickname founded on some personal 
 peculiarity. 
 
 The women are free from our tasteless perversity as to colour 
 and ornament, and have an instinct of the becoming. At first 
 the holoku, which is only a full, yoke nightgown, is not attrac- 
 tive, but I admire it heartily now, and the sagacity of those who 
 devised it. It conceals awkwardness, and befits grace of move- 
 ment ; it is fit for the cHmate, is equally adapted for walking 
 and riding, and has that general appropriateness which is desir- 
 able in costume. The women have a most peculiar walk, with 
 a swinging motion from the hip at each step, in which the 
 shoulder sympathises. I never saw anything at all like it. It 
 has neither the delicate shufHe of the Frenchwoman, the robust, 
 
LETTER XIX.] HONOLULU MARICET. 183 
 
 decided jerk of the Englishwoman, the stately glide of the 
 Spaniard, or the stealthiness of the squaw ; and I should know 
 a Hawaiian woman by it in any part of the world. A majestic 
 ■wahine with small, bare feet, a grand, swinging, deliberate gait, 
 hibiscus blossoms in her flowing hair, and a le of yellow flowers 
 falling over her holoku, marching through these streets, has- a 
 tragic grandeur of appearance, which makes the diminutive, 
 fair-skinned haole, tottering along hesitatingly in high-heeled 
 shoes, look grotesque by comparison. 
 
 On Saturday, our kind host took Mrs. D. and myself to the 
 market, where we saw the natives in all their glory. The 
 women, in squads of a dozen at a time, their Pa-us streaming 
 behind them, were cantering up and down the streets, and men 
 and women were thronging into the market-place ; a brilliant, 
 laughing, joking crowd, their jaunty hats trimmed with fresh 
 flowers, and his of the crimson ohia and orange laiihala falling 
 over their costumes, which were white, green, black, scarlet, 
 blue, and every other colour that can be dyed or imagined. 
 The market is a straggling, open space, with a- number of 
 shabby stalls partially surrounding it, but really we could not 
 see the place for the people. There must have been 2000 
 there. 
 
 Some of the stalls were piled up with wonderful fish, crimson, 
 green, rose, blue, opaline — fish that have spent their lives in 
 coral groves under the warm, bright water. Some of them had 
 wonderful shapes too, and there was one that riveted my atten- 
 tion and fascinated me. It was, I thought -at first, a heap, 
 composed of a dog fish, some limpets, and a multitude of water 
 snakes, and other abominable forms ; but my eyes slowly in- 
 formed me of the fact, which I took in reluctantly and with 
 extreme disgust, that the whole formed one living monster, a 
 revolting compound of a large paunch with eyes, and a multi- 
 tude of nervy, snaky, out-reaching, twining, grasping, tentacular 
 arms, several feet in length, I should think, if extended, but 
 then lying in a crowded undulating heap; the creature was 
 dying, and the iridescence was passing over what seemed to be 
 its body in waves of colour, such as glorify the last hour of the 
 dolphin. But not the colours of the rainbow could glorify this 
 hideous, abominable form, which ought to be left to riot in 
 ocean depths, with its loathsome kindred. You have read " Les 
 Travailleurs du Mer" and can imagine with what feelings I 
 looked upon a living Devil-fish ! The monster is much esteemed 
 by the natives as an article of food, and indeed is generally 
 
Missing Page 
 
Missing Page 
 
1 86 HAWAII. [letter XIX. 
 
 Republic to remit the sugar duties by the surrender of a square 
 inch of Hawaiian soil ; and, from a British point of view, I 
 heartily sympathise with them.* Foreign, i.e. American feeling 
 is running high upon the subject. People say that things are 
 so bad that something must be done, and it remains to be seen 
 whether natives or foreigners can exercise the strongest pressure 
 on the king. I was unfavourably impressed in both lectures 
 by the way in which the natives and their interests were 
 quietly ignored, or as quietly subordinated to the sugar 
 interest. 
 
 It is never safe to forecast destiny ; yet it seems most pro- 
 bable that sooner or later in this century the closing catastrophe 
 must come. The more thoughtful among the natives acquiesce 
 helplessly and patiently in their advancing fate ; but the less 
 intelligent, as I had some opportunity of hearing at Hilo, are 
 becoming restive and irritable, and may drift into something 
 worse if the knowledge of the annexationist views of the 
 foreigners is diffused among them. Things are preparing for 
 change, and I think that the Americans will be wise in their 
 generation if they let them ripen for many years to come. 
 Lunalilo has a broken constitution, and probably will not live 
 long. Kalakaua will probably succeed him, and "after him the 
 deluge," unless he leaves a suitable successor, for there are no 
 more chiefs with pre-eminent claims to the throne. The feel- 
 ing among the people is changing, the feudal instinct is disap- 
 pearing, the old despotic line of the Kamehamehas is extinct ; 
 and king-making by paper ballots, introduced a few months 
 ago, is an approximation to president-making, with the canvas- 
 sing, stumping, and wrangling, incidental to such a contested 
 election. Annexation, or peaceful absorption, is the " manifest 
 destiny " of the islands, with the probable result lately most 
 wittily prophesied by Mark Twain in the New York Tribune, 
 but it is impious and impohtic to hasten it. Much as I like 
 America, I shrink from the day when her universal political 
 corruption and her unrivalled political immoraUty shall be 
 naturalised on Hawaii-nei. . . . Sunday evening. The " Roll- 
 
 * The native feeling- on this subject proved strong 'enough to coerce 
 Lunalilo and the Cabinet, and the idea of ceding Pearl River was aban- 
 doned. In 1875 King Kalakaua and Chancellor Allen visited Washington, 
 and a Reciprocity Treaty with America was negociated on the simple 
 principle of Free Trade. It has not yet come into operation, however, as 
 the United States revenue laws, necessary to make it effective, have not 
 
 been enacted, and the Hawaiian planters are still in a state of suspense 
 
 I. L. B. 1876. 
 
LETTER XIX.] ' THE " ROLLING MOSES." 1S7 
 
 ing Moses " is in, and Sabbatic quiet has given place to general 
 excitement People thought they heard her steaming in at 
 4 a.m., and got up in great agitation. Her guns fired during 
 morning service, and I doubt whether I or any other person 
 heard another word of the sermon. The first batch of letters 
 for the hotel came, but none for me ; the second, none for me ; 
 and I had gone to my room in despair, when some one tossed 
 a large package in at my verandah door, and to my infinite joy 
 I found that one of my benign fellow-passengers in the Nevada, 
 had taken the responsibility of getting my letters at San Fran- 
 cisco and forwarding them here. I don't know how to be 
 grateful enough to the good man. With such late and good 
 news, everything seems bright ; and I have at once decided to 
 take the first schooner for the leeward group, and remain four 
 months longer on the islands. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XX. 
 
 The "Trades" — An Inter-Island' Passage — A Missionary Family — 
 Physical Features of Kauai — Liquor Laws — A Plant of Renown — 
 A Domestic School. 
 
 KoLOA, Kauai, March zyd. 
 
 I AM spending a few days on some quaint old mission pre- 
 mises, and the " guest house," where I am lodged, is an adobe 
 house, with walls two feet thick, and a very thick grass roof 
 comes down six feet all round to shade the windows. It is 
 itself shaded by date palms and algarobas, and is surrounded 
 by hibiscus, oleanders, and the datura arborea {?), which at 
 night fill the air with sweetness. I am the only guest, and the 
 solitude of the guest house in which I am writing is most 
 refreshing to tired nerves. There is not a sound but the rust- 
 ling of trees. 
 
 The first event to record is that the trade winds have set in, 
 and though they may yet yield once or twice to the kona, they 
 will soon be firmly established for nine months. They are not 
 soft airs as I supposed, but riotous, rollicking breezes, which 
 keep up a constant clamour, blowing the trees about, slamming 
 doors, taking liberties with papers, making themselves heard 
 and felt everywhere, flecking the blue Pacific with foam, lower- 
 ing the mercury three degrees, bringing new health and vigour 
 with them, — wholesome, cheery, frolicsome north-easters. They 
 brought me here from Oahu in eighteen hours, for which I 
 thank them heartily. 
 
 You will think me a Sybarite for howling about those 
 eighteen hours of running to leeward, when the residents of 
 Kauai, if they have to go to Honolulu in the intervals betweeri 
 the quarterly trips of the Kilauea, have to spend from three to 
 nine days in beating to windward. These inter-island voyages 
 of extreme detention, rolling on a lazy swell in tropical heat, or 
 beating for days against the strong trades without shelter from 
 the sun, and without an)rthing that could be called accommoda- 
 tion, were among the inevitable hardships to which the mission- 
 
LETTER XX.] THh SCHOONER "JENNY." 189 
 
 aries' wives and children were exposed in every migration for 
 nearly forty years. 
 
 When I reached the wharf at Honolulu the sight of the 
 yenny, the small sixty-ton schooner by which I was to travel, 
 nearly made me give up this pleasant plan, so small she looked, 
 and so cumbered with natives and their accompaniments of 
 mats, dogs, and calabashes of pot. But she is clean, and as 
 sweet as a boat can be which carries through the tropics cattle, 
 hides, sugar, and molasses. She is very low in the water, her 
 deck is the real "fisherman's walk, two steps and overboard;" 
 and on this occasion was occupied solely by natives. The 
 Attorney-General and Mrs. Judd were to have been my fellow 
 voyagers, but my disappointment at their non-appearance was 
 considerably mitigated by the fact that there was not stowage 
 room for more than one white passenger ! Mrs. Dexter pitied 
 me heartily, for it made her quite ill to look down the cabin 
 hatch; but I convinced her that no inconveniences are legiti- 
 mate subjects for sympathy which are endured in the pursuit of 
 pleasure. There was just room on deck for me to sit on 
 a box, and the obliging, gentlemanly master, who, with his 
 son and myself, were the only whites on board, sat on the 
 tafifrail. 
 
 The jf^enny spread her white duck sails, glided gracefully 
 away from the wharf, and bounded through the coral reef; the 
 red sunlight faded, the stars came out, the Honolulu light went 
 down in the distance, and in two hours the little craft was out 
 of sight of land on the broad, crisp Pacific. It was so chilly, 
 that after admiring as long as I could, I dived into the cabin, a 
 mere den, with a table, and a berth on each side, in one of 
 which I lay down, and the other was alternately occupied by 
 the captain and his son. But limited as I thought it, boards 
 have been placed across on some occasions, and eleven whites 
 have been packed into a space six feet by eight ! The heat 
 and suffocation were nearly intolerable, the black flies swarmed, 
 the mosquitos were countless and vicious, the fleas agile beyond 
 anything, and the cockroaches gigantic. Some of the finer 
 cargo was in the cabin, and large rats, only too visible by the 
 light of a swinging lamp, were assailing it, and one with a por- 
 tentous tail ran over my berth more than once, producing a 
 stampede among the cockroaches each time. I have seldom 
 spent a more miserable night, though there was the extreme 
 satisfaction of knowing that every inch of canvas was 
 drawing. 
 
I go HAWAIL [letter xx. 
 
 Towards morning the short jerking motion of a ship close 
 hauled, made me know that we were standing in for the land, 
 and at daylight we anchored in Koloa Roads. The view is a 
 pleasant one. The rains have been abundant, and the land, 
 which here rises rather gradually from the sea, is dotted with 
 houses, abounds in signs of cultivation, and then spreads up 
 into a rolling country between precipitous ranges of mountains. 
 The hills look something like those of Oahu, but their wonder- 
 ful greenness denotes a cooler climate and more copious rains, 
 also their slopes and valleys are densely wooded, and Kauai 
 obviously has its characteristic features, one of which must 
 certainly be a superabundance of that most unsightly cactus, 
 the prickly pear, to which the motto nemo me impune lacessit 
 most literally applies. 
 
 I had not time to tell you before that this trip to Kauai was 
 hastily arranged for me by several of my Honolulu friends, 
 some of whom gave me letters of introduction, while others 
 wrote forewarning their friends of my arrival. I am often re- 
 minded of Hazael's question, " Is thy servant a dog that he 
 should do this thing ? " There is no inn or boarding house on 
 the island, and I had hitherto believed that I could not be con- 
 cussed into following the usual custom whereby a traveller 
 throws himself on the hospitality of the residents. Yet, under 
 the influence of Honolulu persuasions, I am doing this very 
 thing, but with an amount of mauvaise honte and trepidation, 
 which I will not voluntarily undergo again. 
 
 My first introduction was to Mrs. Smith, wife of a secular 
 member of the Mission, and it requested her to find means of 
 forwarding me a distance of twenty-three miles. Her son was 
 at the landing with a buggy, a most unpleasant index of the 
 existence of carriage roads, and brought me here ; and Mrs. 
 Smith most courteously met me at the door. When I pre- 
 sented my letter I felt like a thief detected in a first offence, 
 but I was at once made welcome, and my kind hosts insist on 
 my remaining with them for some days. Their house is a 
 pretty old-fashioned looking tropical dwelling, much shaded by 
 exotics, and the parlour is homelike with new books. There 
 are two sons and two daughters at home, all, as well as their 
 parents, interesting themselves assiduously in the welfare of 
 the natives. Six bright-looking native girls are receiving an 
 industrial training in the house. Yesterday being Sunday, the 
 young people taught a Sunday school twice, besides attend- 
 ing the native church, an act of respect to Divine service 
 
LETTER XX.] PHYSICAL FEATURES OF KAUAI. 191 
 
 in Hawaiian which always has an influence on the native 
 attendance. 
 
 We have had some beautiful rides in the neighbourhood. 
 It is a wild, lonely, picturesque coast, and the Pacific moans 
 along it, casting itself on it in heavy surges, with a singularly 
 dreary sound. There are some very fine specimens of the 
 phenomena called " blow-holes " on the shore, not like the 
 " spouting cave " at lona, however. We spent a long time in 
 watching the action of one, though not the finest. At half 
 tide this " spouting horn " throws up a column of water over 
 sixty feet in height from a very small orifice, and the effect of 
 thecompressed air rushing through a crevice near it, sometimes 
 with groans and shrieks, and at others with a hollow roar like 
 the warning fog-horn on a coast, is magnificent, when, as to-day, 
 there is a heavy swell on the coast. 
 
 Kauai is much out of the island world, owing to the infre- 
 quent visits of the Kilauea, but really it is only twelve hours by 
 steam from the capital. Strangers visit it seldom, as it has no 
 active volcano like Hawaii, or colossal crater like Maui, or 
 anything sensational of any kind. It is called the " Garden 
 Island," and has no great wastes of black lava and red ash 
 like its neighbours. It is queerly shaped, almost circular, with 
 a diameter of from twenty-eight to thirty miles, and its area 
 is about 500 square miles. Waialeale, its highest mountain, 
 is about 6000 feet high, but little is known of it, for it is 
 swampy and dangerous, and a part of it is a forest-covered and 
 little explored table-land, terminating on the sea in a range of 
 perpendicular precipices 2000 feet in depth, so steep, it is 
 said, that a wild cat could not get round them. Owing to 
 these, and the virtual inaccessibility of a large region behind 
 them, no one can travel round the island by land, and small 
 as it is, very little seems to be known of portions of its 
 area. 
 
 Kauai has apparently two centres of formation, and its moun- 
 tains are thickly dotted with craters. The age and density of 
 the vegetation within and without those in this Koloa district, 
 indicate a very long cessation from volcanic action. It is truly 
 an oddly contrived island. An elevated rolling region, park- 
 like, liberally ornamented with clumps of ohia, lauhala, hau, 
 (hibiscus) and koa, and intersected with guUies full of large 
 eugenias, lies outside the mountain spurs behind Koloa. It 
 is only the tropical trees, specially the lauhala or " screw pine," 
 tfie whimsical shapes of outlying ridges, which now and then 
 
192 HA WAIT. [letter xx. 
 
 lie like the leaves in a. book, and the strange forms of extinct 
 craters, ■ which distinguish it from some of our most beautiful 
 park scenery, such as Windsor Great Park or Belvoir. It is a 
 soft tranquil beauty, and a tolerable road which owes little 
 enough to art, increases the likeness to the sweet home 
 scenery of England. In this part of the island the ground 
 seems devoid of stones, and the grass is as fine and smooth as 
 a race course. 
 
 The latest traces of volcanic action are found here. From 
 the Koloa Ridge to, and into the sea, a barren uneven sur- 
 face oipahoehoe extends, often bulged up in immense bubbles, 
 some of which have partially burst, leaving caverns, one of 
 which, near the shore, is paved with the ancient coral reef ! 
 
 The valleys of Kauai are long, and -ividen to the sea, and 
 their dark rich soil is often ten feet deep. On the windward 
 side the rivers are very numerous and picturesque. Between 
 the strong winds and the lightness of the soil, I should think 
 that like some parts of the Highlands, " it would take a shower 
 every day." The leeward side, quite close to the sea, is flushed 
 and nearly barren, but there is very little of this desert region. 
 Kauai is less legible in its formation than the other islands. 
 Its mountains, from their impenetrable forests, dangerous 
 breaks, and swampiness, are difficult of access, and its ridges 
 are said to be more utterly irregular, its lavas more decom- 
 posed, and its natural sections more completely smothered 
 under a profuse vegetation than those of any other island in 
 the tropical Pacific. Geologists suppose, from the degrada- 
 tion of its ridges, and the absence of any recent volcanic pro- 
 ducts, that it is the oldest of the group, but so far as I have 
 read, none of them venture to conjecture how many ages it has 
 taken to convert its hard basalt into the rich soil which now 
 sustains trees of enormous size. If this theory be correct, the 
 volcanoes must have gone on dying out from west to east, and 
 from north to south, till only Kilauea remains, and its ener- 
 gies appear to be declining. The central mountain of this 
 island is built of a heavy ferruginous basalt, but the shore 
 ridges contain less iron, are more porous, and vary in 
 their structure from a compact phonolite, to a ponderous 
 basalt. 
 
 The population of Kauai is a widely scattered one of 4900, 
 and as it is an out of the world region the people are probably 
 better, and less sophisticated. They are accounted rustics, or 
 " pagans," in the classical sense, elsewhere. Horses are good 
 
LETTER XX.] THE HAWAIIAN LIQUOR LAWS. 193 
 
 and very cheap, and the natives of both sexes are most expert 
 riders. Among their feats, are picking up small coins from the 
 ground while going at full gallop, or while riding at the same 
 speed wringing ofiTthe heads of unfortunate fowls, whose bodies 
 are buried in the earth. 
 
 There are very few foreigners, and they appear on the whole 
 a good set, and very friendly among each other. Many of 
 them are actively interested in promoting the improvement of 
 the natives, but it is uphill work, and ill-rewarded, at least on 
 earth. The four sugar plantations employ a good deal of 
 Chinese labour, and I fear that the Chinamen are stealthily 
 tempting the Hawaiians to smoke opium. 
 
 All the world over, however far behind aborigines are in the 
 useful arts, they exercise a singular ingenuity in devising means 
 for intoxicating and stupefying themselves. On these islands 
 distillation is illegal, and a foreigner is hable to conviction 
 and punishment for giving spirits to a native Hawaiian, yet 
 the natives contrive to distil very intoxicating drinks, spe- 
 cially from the root of the ti tree, and as the spirit is unrecti- 
 fied it is both fiery and unwholesome. Licences to sell spirits 
 are confined to the capital. In spite of the notoriously bad 
 effect of alcohol in the tropics, people drink hard, and the 
 number of deaths which can be distinctly traced to spirit 
 drinking is startling. 
 
 The prohibition on selling liquor to natives is the subject of 
 incessant discussions and "interpellations" in the national 
 legislature. Probably all the natives agree in regarding it as a 
 badge of the "inferiority of colour ; " but I have been told 
 generally that the most intelligent and thoughtful among them 
 are in favour of its continuance, on the ground that if addi- 
 tional facilities for drinking were afforded, the decrease in the 
 population would be accelerated. In the printed " Parliamen- 
 tary Proceedings," I see that petitions are constantly pre- 
 sented praying that the distillation of spirits may be declared 
 free, while a few are in favour of " total prohibition." 
 Another prayer is " that Hawaiians may have the same privi- 
 leges as white people in buying and drinking spirituous liquors." 
 
 A bill to repeal the invidious distinction was brought into 
 the legislature not long since; but the influence of the descen- 
 dants of the missionaries and of an influential part of the white 
 community is so strongly against_ spirit drinking, as well as 
 against the sale of drink to the natives, that the law remains on 
 the Statute-book. 
 
194 ffA WAIT. [letter xx. 
 
 The tone in which it was discussed is well indicated by the 
 language of Kalakaua, Lunalilo's rival : " The restrictions im- 
 posed by this law do the people no good, but rather harm ; for 
 instead of inculcating the principles of honour, they teach them 
 to steal behind the bar, the stable, and the closet, where they 
 may be sheltered from the eyes of the law. The heavy licence 
 imposed on the liquor dealers, and the /prohibition against 
 selling to the natives are an infringement of our civil rights, 
 binding not only the purchaser but the dealer against acquir- 
 ing and possessing property. Then, Mr. President, I ask, 
 where lies virtue, where lies justice? Not in those that bind 
 the liberty of this people, by refusing them the privilege that 
 they now crave, of drinking spirituous liquors without restric- 
 tion. Will you by persisting that this law remain in force make 
 us a nation of hypocrites ? or will you repeal it, that honour 
 and virtue may for once be yours, O Hawaii." A committee 
 of the Assembly, in reporting on the question of the prohibi- 
 tion of the sale of intoxicants to anybody, through its chair- 
 man, Mr. Carter, stated, " Experience teaches that such prohi- 
 bition could not be enforced without a strong public 
 sentiment to indorse it, and such a sentiment does not prevail 
 in this community, as is evidenced by the fact that the sale 
 of intoxicating drinks to natives is largely practised in de- 
 fiance of law and the executive, and that the manufacture of 
 intoxicating drinks, though prohibited, is carried on in every 
 district of the kingdom." So the most important question 
 agitated in every country ruled or colonised by Anglo-Saxons, 
 is also here astir. 
 
 I was led to this digression by seeing, for the first time, some 
 very fine plants of the Piper methysticum. This is awa, truly a 
 " plant of renown " throughout Polynesia. Strange tales are 
 told of it. It is said to produce profound sleep, with visions 
 more enchanting than those of opium or hasheesh, and that its 
 repetition, instead of being deleterious, is harmless and even 
 wholesome. Its sale is prohibited, except on the production 
 of evidence that it has been prescribed as a drug. Neverthe- 
 less no law on the islands is so grossly violated. It is easy to- 
 ^ive it, and easy to grow it, or dig it up in the woods, so that, 
 in spite of the legal restrictions, it is used to an enormous 
 extent. It was proposed absolutely to prohibit the sale of it, 
 though the sum paid for the licence is no inconsiderable item 
 in the revenue of a kingdom, which, like many others, is expe- 
 riencing the difficulty of " making both ends meet ; " but the 
 
LETTER XX.] A POLYNESIAN NARCOTIC. 195 
 
 committee which sat upon the subject reported " that such 
 prohibition is not practicable, unless its growth and cultivation 
 are prevented. So long as public sentiment permits the open 
 violation of the existing laws regulating its sale without rebuke, 
 so long will it be of little use to attempt prohibition." One 
 cannot be a day on the islands without hearing wonderful 
 stories about awa ; and its use is defended by some who are 
 strongly opposed to the use as well as abuse of intoxicants. 
 People who like " The Earl and the Doctor " delight them- 
 selves in the strongly sensuous element which pervades Poly- 
 nesian life, delight themselves too, in contemplating the 
 preparation and results of the awa beverage ; but both are to 
 me extremely disgusting, and I cannot believe that any drink, 
 which stupefies the senses, and deprives a human being of the 
 power to exercise reason and will, is anything but hurtful to the 
 moral nature. 
 
 While passing the Navigator group, one of my fellow- 
 passengers, who had been for some time in Tutuila, de- 
 scribed the preparation of awa poetically, the root "being 
 masticated by the pearly teeth of flower-clad maidens ; " but 
 I was an accidental witness of a nocturnal "awa drinking" 
 on Hawaii, and saw nothing but very plain prose. I feel as if 
 I must approach the subject mysteriously. I had no time to 
 tell you of the circumstance when it occurred, when also I 
 was completely ignorant that it was an illegal affair ; and now 
 with a sort of " guilty knowledge " I tremble to relate what I 
 saw, and to divulge that though I could not touch the beverage, 
 I tasted the root, which has an acrid, pungent taste, something 
 like horse-radish, with an aromatic flavour in addition, and I 
 can imagine that the acquired taste for it must, like other 
 acquired tastes, be perfectly irresistible, even without the 
 additional gratification of the results which follow its exercise. 
 
 In the particular instance which I saw, two girls who were 
 not beautiful, and an old man who would have been hideous 
 but for a set of sound, regular teeth, were sitting on the ground 
 masticating the awa root, the process being contemplated with 
 extreme interest by a number of adults. When, by careful 
 chewing, they had reduced the root to a pulpy consistence, 
 they tossed it into a large calabash, and relieved their mouths 
 of superfluous saliva before preparing a fresh mouthful. This 
 went on till a considerable quantity was provided, and then 
 water was added, and the mass was kneaded and stirred with 
 the hands till it looked like soap suds. It was then strained ; 
 
 o 2 
 
196 ffA WAIT. [letter XX. 
 
 and after more water had been added it was poured into cocoa- 
 nut calabashes, and handed round. Its appearance eventually 
 was like weak, frothy coffee and milk. The appearance of 
 purely animal gratification on the faces of those who drank it, 
 instead of being poetic, was of the low, gross earth. Heads 
 thrown back, lips parted with a feeble, sensual smile, eyes hazy 
 and unfocussed, arms folded on the breast, and the mental 
 faculties numbed and sliding out of reach. 
 
 Those who drink it pass through the stage of idiocy into a 
 deep sleep, which it is said can be reproduced once without 
 an extra dose, by bathing in cold water. Confirmed awa 
 drinkers might be mistaken for lepers, for they are covered 
 with whitish scales, and have inflamed eyes and a leathery skin, 
 for the epidermis is thickened and whitened, and eventually 
 peels off. The habit has been adopted by not a few whites, 
 especially on Hawaii, though, of course, to a certain extent 
 clandestinely. Awa is taken also as a medicine, and was 
 supposed to be a certain cure for corpulence. 
 
 The root and base of the stem are the parts used, and it is 
 best when these are fresh. It seems to exercise a powerful 
 fascination, and to be loved and glorified as whisky is in 
 Scotland, and wine in southern Europe. In some of the other 
 islands of Polynesia, on festive occasions, when the chewed 
 root is placed in the calabash, and the water is poured on, the 
 whole assemblage sings appropriate songs in its praise ; and 
 this is kept up until the decoction has been strained to its 
 dregs. But here, as the using it as a beverage is an illicit pro- 
 cess, a great mystery attends it. It is said that awa drinking 
 is again on the increase, and with the illicit distillation of 
 unwholesome spirits, the ilhcit sale of imported spirits and the 
 oj)ium smoking, the consumption of stimulants and narcotics 
 on the islands is very considerable.* 
 
 To turn from drink to climate. It is strange that with such 
 a heavy rainfall, dwellings built on the ground and never dried 
 by fires should be so perfectly free from damp as they are. On 
 seeing the houses here and in Honolulu, buried away in dense 
 foliage, my first thought was, " how lovely in summer, but how 
 unendurably damp in winter," forgetting that I arrived in the 
 nominal winter, and that it is really summer all the year. Lest 
 you should think that I am exaggerating the charms of the 
 
 * According to the revenue returns for the biennial period ending March 
 31, 1874, the revenue derived from awa was over I9000, and that from 
 opium over $46,000. 
 
LETTER XX.] A "FAMILY SCHOOL." 197 
 
 climate, I copy a sentence from a sp'eeth made by Kame- 
 hameha IV., at the opening of an Hawaiian agricultural 
 society : — 
 
 " Who ever heard of winter on our shores ? Where among 
 us shall we find the numberless drawbacks which, in less 
 favoured countries, the labourer has to contend with ? They 
 have no place in our beautiful group, which rests like a water 
 lily on the swelling bosom of the Pacific. The heaven is 
 tranquil above our heads, and the sun keeps his jealous eye 
 upon us every day, while his rays are so tempered that they 
 never wither prematurely what they have warmed into life."* 
 The kindness of my hosts is quite overwhelming. They will 
 not hear of my buying a horse, but insist on my taking away 
 with me the one which I have been riding since I came, the 
 best I have ridden on the islands, surefooted, fast, easy, and 
 ambitious. I have complete sympathy with the passion which 
 the natives have for riding. Horses are abundant and cheap on 
 Kauai: a fairly good one can be bought for $20. I think 
 every child possesses one. Indeed the horses seem to out- 
 number the people. 
 
 The eight native girls who are being trained and educated 
 here as a " family school " have their horses, and go out to 
 ride a^ English children go for a romp into a play-ground. 
 Yesterday Mrs. S. said, " Now, girls, get the horses," and soon 
 two little creatures of eight and ten came galloping up on two 
 spirited animals. They had not only caught and bridled 
 them, but had put on the complicated Mexican saddles as 
 securely as if men had done it ; and I got a lesson from them 
 in making the Mexican knot with the thong which secures 
 the cinch, which will make me independent henceforward. 
 
 These children can all speak English, and their remarks 
 are most original and amusing. They have not a particle of 
 
 * The following paragraph from Dr. Rupert Anderson's sober-minded 
 book on the Sandwich Islands fully bears out the king's remarks : — " The 
 islands all lie within the range of the trade winds, which blow with great 
 regularity nine months of the year, and on the leeward side, where their 
 course is obstructed by mountains, there are regular land and sea breezes. 
 The weather at all seasons is delightful, the sky usually cloudless, the 
 atmosphere clear and bracing. Nothing can exceed the soft brilliancy of 
 the moonlight nights. Thunderstorms are rare and light in their nature. 
 Hurricanes are unknown. The general temperature is the nearest in the 
 world to that point regarded by physiologists as most conducive to health 
 and longevity. By ascending the mountains any desirable degree of 
 temperature may be obtained." 
 
igS HA WAIL [letter xx 
 
 respect of manner, as we understand it, but seem very docile. 
 They are naive and fascinating in their manners, and the most 
 joyous children I ever saw. When they are not at their lessons, 
 or household occupations, they are dancing on stilts, acting 
 plays of their own invention, riding or bathing, and they laugh 
 all day long. Mrs. S. has trained nearly seventy since she has 
 been here. If there were nothing else they see family life in a 
 pure and happy form, which must in itself be a moral training, 
 and by dint of untiring watchfulness they are kept aloof from 
 the corrupt native associations. Indeed they are not allowed 
 to have any intercourse with natives, for, according to one of 
 the missionaries who has spent many years on the islands : 
 " None know or can conceive without personal observation the 
 nameless taint that pervades the whole garrulous talk and 
 gregarious life of all heathen peoples, and above which our 
 poor Hawaiian friends have not yet risen." Of this universal 
 impurity of speech every one speaks in the strongest terms, 
 and careful white parents not only seclude their children in 
 early years from unrestrained intercourse with the natives, but 
 prevent them from acquiring the Hawaiian tongue. In this 
 respect the training of native girls involves a degree of patient 
 watchfulness which must at times press heavily on those who 
 undertake it, as the carefulness of years might fail of its result, 
 if it were intermitted for one afternoon. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXI. 
 
 The CliaiTQS of Kauai — Kaluna the Second — A Patriarchal Establishment 
 — A Family Romance— A Typical Canon — The Blessing of Plenty. 
 
 Makaueli, Kauai. 
 
 After my letters from Hawaii, and their narratives of 
 volcanoes, freshets, and out of the world valleys, you will think 
 my present letters dull, so I must begin this one pleasantly, 
 by telling you that though I have no stirring adventures to 
 relate, I am enjoying myself and improving again in health, 
 and that the people are hospitable, genial, and cultivated, and 
 that Kauai, though altogether different from Hawaii, has an 
 extreme beauty altogether its own, which wins one's love, though 
 it does not startle one into admiration like that of the Hawaiian 
 gulches. Is it because that, though the magic of novelty is 
 over it, there is a perpetual undercurrent of home resemblance ? 
 The dash of its musical waters might be in Cumberland ; its 
 swelling uplands, with their clumps of tree, might be in Kent ; 
 and then again, steep, broken, wooded ridges, with glades of 
 grass, suggest the Val Moutiers ; and broader sweeps of moun- 
 tain outline, the finest scenery of the AUeghanies. 
 
 But yet the very things which have a certain tenderness of 
 familiarity, are in a foreign setting. The great expanse of 
 restful sea, so faintly blue all day, and so faintly red in the late 
 afternoon, is like no other ocean in its unutterable peace ; and 
 this joyous, riotous trade-wind, which rustles the trees all day, 
 and falls asleep at night, and cools the air, seems to come from 
 some widely different laboratory than that in which our vicious 
 east viands, and damp west winds, and piercing north winds, 
 and suffocating south winds are concocted. Here one cannot 
 ride " into the teeth of a north-easter," for such the trade-wind 
 really is, without feeling at once invigorated, and wrapped in 
 
200 HA WAIT. [LETTER XXI. 
 
 an atmosphere of balm. It is not here so tropical looking as 
 in Hawaii, and though there are not the. frightful- volcanic 
 wildernesses which make a thirsty solitude in the centre of that 
 island, neither are there those bursts of tropical luxuriance 
 which make every gulch an epitome of Paradise : I really can- 
 not define the difference, for here, as there, palms glass them- 
 selves in still waters, bananas flourish, and the forests are green 
 with ferns. 
 
 We took three days for our journey of twenty-three miles from 
 
 Koloa, the we, consisting of Mrs. , the widow of an early 
 
 missionary teacher, venerable in years and character, a native 
 boy of ten years old, her squire, a second Kaluna, without 
 
 Kaluna's good qualities, and myself. Mrs. is not a bold 
 
 horsewoman, and preferred to keep to a foot's pace, which 
 fretted my ambitious animal, whose innocent antics alarmed her 
 in turn. We only rode seven miles the first day, through a 
 park-like region, very like Western Wisconsin, and just like 
 what I expected and failed to find in New Zealand. Grass- 
 land much tumbled about, the turf very fine and green, dotted 
 over with clumps and single trees, with picturesque, rocky 
 hills, deeply cleft by water-courses were on our right, and on 
 our left the green slopes blended with the flushed, stony soil 
 near the sea, on which indigo and various composite are the 
 chief vegetation. It was hot, but among the hills on our right, 
 cool clouds were coming down in frequent showers, and the 
 white foam of cascades gleamed among the ohias, whose dark 
 foliage at a distance has almost the look of pine woods. 
 
 Our first halting place was one of the prettiest places I ever 
 saw, a buff frame-house, with a deep verandah festooned with 
 passion flowers, two or three guest houses, also bright with 
 trailers, scattered about under the trees near it, a pretty 
 garden, a background of grey, rocky hills cool with woods 
 and ravines, and o-*er all the vicinity, that air of exquisite 
 trimness which is artificially produced in England, but is 
 natural here. 
 
 Kaluna the Second soon showed symptoms of being troiible- 
 some. The native servants were away, and he was dull, and 
 for that I pitied him. He asked leave to go back to Koloa for 
 a " sleeping tapa," which was refused, and either out of spite 
 or carelessness, instead of fastening the horses into the pasture, 
 he let them go, and the following morning when we were ready 
 for our journey they were lost. Then he borrowed a horse, 
 and late in the afternoon returned with the four animals, 
 
LETTER XXI.] < A PATRIARCHAL HOME. 20I 
 
 all white with foam and dust, and this escapade detained 
 us another night. Subsequently, after disobeying orders, he 
 lost his horse, which was a borrowed one, deserted his mistress, 
 and absconded ! 
 
 The slopes over which we travelled were red, hot, and stony, 
 cleft in one place however, by a green, fertile valley, full of 
 rice and kalo patches, and native houses, with a broad river, 
 the Hanapepe, flowing quietly down the middle, which we 
 forded near the sea, where it was half-way up my horse's sides. 
 After plodding all day over stony soil in the changeless sun- 
 shine, as the shadows lengthened, we turned directly up 
 towards the mountains and began a two hours' ascent. It was 
 delicious. They were so cool, so green, so varied, their grey 
 pinnacles so spHntered, their precipices so abrupt, their ravines 
 so dark and deep, and their lower slopes covered with the 
 greenest and finest grass ; then dark ohias rose singly, then in 
 twos and threes, and finally mixed in dense forest masses, with 
 the pea-green of the kickui. 
 
 It became yet lovelier as the track wound through deep 
 wooded ravines, or snaked along the narrow tops of spine- 
 like ridges j the air became cooler, damper, and more like 
 elixir, till at a height of 1 500 feet we came upon Makaueli, 
 idealty situated upon an unequalled natural plateau, a house of 
 patriarchial size for the islands, with a verandah festooned with 
 roses, fuchsias, the water lemon, and other passion flowers, and 
 with a large guest-house attached. It stands on a natural 
 lawn, with abrupt slopes, sprinkled with orange trees burdened 
 with fruit, ohias, and hiiaiscus. From the back verandah the 
 forest-covered mountains rise, and in front a deep ravine 
 widens to the grassy slopes below and the lonely Pacific, — as 
 I write, a golde'n sea, on which the island of Niihau, eighteen 
 miles distant, floats like an amethyst. 
 
 The solitude is perfect. Except the " quarters '' at the back, 
 I think there is not a house, native or foreign, within six miles, 
 though there are several hundred natives on the property. 
 Birds sing in the morning, and the trees rustle throughout the 
 day ; but in the cool evenings the air is perfectly still, and the 
 trickle of a stream is the only sound. 
 
 The house has the striking novelty of a chimney, and there 
 is a fire all day long in the dining-room. 
 
 I must now say a little about my hosts and try to give you 
 some idea of them. I heard their history from Mr. Damon, 
 and thought it too strange to be altogether true until it was 
 
202 HA WAIT. [LETTER XXL 
 
 confirmed by themselves.' The venerable lady at the head of 
 the house emigrated from Scotland to New Zealand many years 
 ago, where her husband was unfortunately drowned, and she 
 being left to bring up a large family, and manage a large pro- 
 perty, was equally successful with both. Her great ambition 
 was to keep her family together, something on the old patri- 
 archal system ; and when her children grew up, and it seemed 
 as if even their very extensive New Zealand property was not 
 large enough for them, she sold it, and embarking her family 
 and movable possessions on board a clipper-ship, owned and 
 commanded by one of her sons-in-law, they sailed through 
 the Pacific in search of a home where they could remain 
 together. 
 
 They were strongly tempted by Tahiti, but some reasons 
 having decided them against it, they sailed northwards and put 
 into Honolulu. Mr. Damon, who was seaman's chaplain, on 
 going down to the wharf one day, was surprised to find their 
 trim barque, with this large family party on board, with a 
 beautiful and brilliant old lady at his head, books, pictures, 
 work, and all that could add refinement to a floating home, 
 about them, and cattle and sheep of valuable breeds in pens 
 on deck. They then sailed for British Columbia, but were 
 much disappointed with it, and in three months they re- 
 appeared at Honolulu, much at a loss regarding their future 
 prospects. 
 
 The island of Niihau was then for sale, and in a very short 
 time they purchased it of Kamehameha V. for a ridiculously 
 low price, and taking their wooden houses with them, es- 
 tablished themselves for seven years. It is truly isolated, both 
 by a heavy surf and a disagreeable sea-passage, and they after- 
 wards bought this beautiful and extensive property, made a 
 road, and built the house. Only the second son and his wife 
 live now on Niihau, where they are the only white residents 
 among 350 natives. It has an area of 70,000 acres, and could 
 sustain a far larger number of sheep than the 20,000 now 
 upon it. It is said that the transfer of the island involved 
 some hardships, owing to a number of the natives having 
 neglected to legalise their claims to their kukanas, but the 
 present possessors have made themselves thoroughly acquainted 
 with the language, and take the warmest interest in the island 
 
 * These circumstances are well-known throughout the islands, and with 
 the omission of some personal details, there is nothing which may not be 
 known by a larger public. 
 
LETTER XXI.] THE MAKAUELI HOUSEHOLD. 203 
 
 population. Niihau is famous for its very fine mats, and for 
 necklaces of shells six yards long, as well as for the extreme 
 beauty and variety of the shells which are found there. 
 
 The household here consists first and foremost of its head, 
 
 Mrs. , a lady of the old Scotch type, very talented, bright, 
 
 humorous, charming, with a definite character which impresses 
 its force upon everybody ; beautiful in her old age, disdaining 
 that servile conformity to prevailing fashion which makes many 
 old people at once ugly and contemptible : speaking English 
 with a slight, old-fashioned, refined Scotch accent, which gives 
 naivete to everything she says ; up to the latest novelty in 
 theology and politics : devoted to her children and grand- 
 children, the life of the family, and though upwards of seventy, 
 the first to rise, and the last to retire in the house. She was 
 away when I came, but some days afterwards rode up on horse- 
 back, in a large, drawn silk bonnet, which she rarely lays aside, 
 as light in her figure and step as a young girl, looking as if she 
 had walked out of an old picture, or one of Dean Ramsay's 
 books. 
 
 Then there are her eldest son, a bachelor, two widowed 
 daughters with six children between them, three of whom are 
 grown up young men, and a tutor, a young Prussian officer, 
 who was on Maximilian's staff up to the time of the Queretaro 
 disaster, and is still suffering from Mexican barbarities. The 
 remaining daughter is married to a Norwegian gentleman, who 
 owns and resides on the next property. So the family is 
 together, and the property is large enough to give scope to the 
 grandchildren as they require it. 
 
 They are thoroughly Hawaiianised. The young people all 
 speak Hawaiian as easily as English, and the three young men, 
 who are superb young fellows, about six feet high, not only 
 emulate the natives in feats of horsemanship, such as throwing 
 the lasso, and picking up a coin while going at full gallop, 
 but are surf-board riders, an art which it has been said to be 
 impossible for foreigners to acquire. 
 
 The natives on Niihau and in this part of Kauai, call 
 Mrs. — — "Mama." Their rent seems to consist in giving 
 one or more days' service in a month, so it is a revival of 
 the old feudality. In order to patronise native labour, my 
 hosts dispense with a Chinese, and employ a native cook, 
 and native women come in and profess to do some of the 
 housework, but it is a very troublesome arrangement, and 
 ends in the ladies doing all the finer cooking, and superin- 
 
204 HAWAII. [lettek xxr. 
 
 tending the coarser, setting the table, trimming the lamps, 
 cutting out and " fixing " all the needlework, besides planning 
 the indoor and outdoor work which the natives are supposed 
 to do. Having related their proficiency in domestic duties, 
 must add that they are splendid horsewomen, one of them 
 an excellent shot, and the other has enough practical know- 
 ledge of seamanship, as well as navigation, to enable her to 
 take a ship round the world ! It is a busy life, owing to the 
 large number of natives daily employed, and the necessity of 
 looking after the native lunas, or overseers. Dr. Smith at 
 Koloa, twenty-two miles off, is the only doctor on the island, 
 and the natives resort to this house in great numbers for advice 
 and medicine in their many ailments. It is much such a life 
 as people lead at Raasay, Applecross, or some other remote 
 Highland place, only that people who come to visit here, 
 unless they ride twenty-two miles, must come to the coast in 
 the Jenny instead of being conveyed by one of David Hutche- 
 son's luxurious steamers. 
 
 We were sitting in the library one morning when Mr. M., 
 of Timaru, N.Z., rode up with an introduction, and was of 
 course cordially welcomed. He goes on to England, where 
 you will doubtless cross- question him concerning my state- 
 ments. During his visit a large party of us made a delightful 
 expedition to the Hanapep^ Falls, one of the " lions " of 
 Kauai. It is often considered too " rough " for ladies, and 
 
 when Mrs. and I said we were going, I saw Mr. M. look 
 
 as if he thought we should be a dependent nuisance ; I was 
 
 amused afterwards with his surprise at Mrs. 's courageous 
 
 horsemanship, and at his obvious confusion as to whether he 
 should help us, which question he wisely decided in the 
 negative. 
 
 If "happiness is atmosphere," we were happy. The day 
 was brilliant, and as cool as early June at home, but the sweet, 
 joyous trade-wind could not be brewed elsewhere than on the 
 Pacific. The scenery was glorious, and mountains, trees, 
 frolicsome water, and scarlet birds, all rioted as if in conscious 
 happiness. Existence was a luxury, and reckless riding a mere 
 outcome of the animal spirits of horses and riders, and the 
 tlmd of the shoeless feet as the horses galloped over the soft 
 grass was sweeter than music. I could hardly hold my horse 
 at all, and down hills as steep as the east side of Arthur's Seat, 
 over knife-like ridges too narrow for two to ride abreast, and 
 along side-tracks only a foot wide, we rode at full gallop, tiU 
 
LETTER XXI.] A TYPICAL canon: 205 
 
 we pulled up at the top of a descent of 2,000 feet with a broad, 
 rapid river at its feet, emerging from between colossal walls of 
 rock to girdle a natural lawn of the bright manimie grass. 
 There had been a "drive" of horses, and numbers of these, 
 with their picturesque saddles, were picketed there, while 
 their yet more picturesque, scarlet-shirted riders lounged in 
 the sun. 
 
 It was a difficult two hours' ride, from thence to the Falls, 
 worthy of Hawaii, and since my adventures in the Hilo gulches 
 I cannot cross running water without feeling an amount of 
 nervousness which I can conceal, but cannot reason myself 
 out of In going and returning, we forded the broad, rugged 
 river twenty-six times, always in water up to my horse's girths, 
 and the bottom was so rocky and full of holes, and the torrent 
 so impetuous, that the animals floundered badly and evidently 
 disliked the whole affair. Once it had been possible to ride 
 along the edge, but the river had torn away what there was of 
 margin in a freshet, so that we had to cross perpetually, to 
 attain the rough, boulder-strewn strips which lay between the 
 cliffs and itself. Sometimes we rode over roundish boulders 
 like those on the top of Ben Cruachan, or like those of the 
 landing at lona, and most of those under the rush of the 
 bright, foaming water were covered with a silky, green weed, 
 on which the horses slipped alarmingly. My companions 
 always took the lead, and by the time that each of their horses 
 had spisggled, slipped, and floundered in and out of holes, and 
 bMiSllsted and leapt up steep banks, I was ready to echo 
 
 Jmx. M.'s exclamation regarding Mrs. , "I never saw 
 
 such riding ; I never saw ladies with such nerve." I cer- 
 tainly never saw people encounter such difficulties for the 
 sake of scenery. Generally, a fall would be regarded as 
 practically inaccessible which could only be approached in 
 such a way. 
 
 I will not inflict another description of similar scenery upon 
 you, but this, though perhaps exceeding all others in beauty, 
 is not only a type, perhaps the finest type, of a species of 
 caiion very common on these islands, but is also so inte- 
 resting geologically that you must tolerate a very few words 
 upon it. 
 
 The valley for two or three miles from the sea is nearly 
 level, very fertile, and walled in by palis 250 feet high, much 
 grooved vertically, and presenting fine layers of conglomerate 
 and grey basalt ; and the Hanape'pe winds quietly through the 
 
2o6 HAWAII. [letter xxi. 
 
 region which it fertilises, a stream several hundred feet wide, 
 with a soft, smooth bottom. But four miles inland the bed 
 becomes rugged and decHvitous, and the mountain walls close 
 in, forming a most magnificent caiion from looo to 2500 feet 
 deep. Other canons of nearly equal beauty descend to swell 
 the Hanapdpe with their clear, cool, tributaries, and there are 
 " meetings of the waters " worthier of verse than those of 
 Avoca. The walls are broken and highly fantastic, narrowing 
 here, receding there, their strangely-arched recesses festooned 
 with the feathery trichomanes, their clustering columns and 
 broken buttresses suggesting some old-world minster, and their 
 stately tiers of columnar basalt rising one above another in 
 barren grey into the far-off blue sky. The river in carving out 
 the gorge so grandly has most energetically removed all 
 rubbish, and even the tributaries of the lateral canons do 
 not accumulate any " wash " in the main bed. The walls as 
 a rule rise clear from the stream, which, besides its lateral 
 tributaries, receives other contributions in the form of water- 
 falls, which hurl themselves into it from the cliffs in one 
 leap. 
 
 After ascending it for four miles all further progress was 
 barred by z.pali which curves round from the right, and closes 
 the chasm with a perpendicular wall, over which the Hana- 
 p^pe precipitates itself from a height of 326 feet, forming the 
 Koula Falls. At the summit is a , very fine entablature of 
 curved columnar basalt, resembling the clam shell cave at 
 Staffa, and two high, sharp, and impending peaks on the other 
 side form a stately gateway for a stream which enters from 
 another and broader valley ; but it is but one among many 
 small cascades, which round the arc of the falls flash out in 
 foam among the dark foliage, and contribute their tiny warble 
 to the diapason of the waterfall. It rewards one well for pene- 
 trating the deep gash which has been made into the earth. It 
 seemed so very far away from all buzzing, frivolous, or vexing 
 things, in the cool, dark abyss into which only the noon-day 
 sun penetrates. All beautiful things which love damp ; all 
 exquisite, tender ferns and mosses ; all shade-loving parasites 
 flourish there in perennial beauty. And high above in the 
 sunshine, the pea-green candle-nut struggles with the dark ohia 
 for precarious roothold on rocky ledges, and dense masses of 
 Eugenia, aflame with crimson flowers, and bananas, and all the 
 leafy wealth born of heat and damp fill up the clefts which 
 fissure th.ej>a/i. Every now and then some scarlet tropic bird 
 
LETTER XXI.] INHUMANITY TO HORSES. 207 
 
 flashed across the shadow, but it was a very lifeless and silent 
 scene. The arches, buttresses, and columns suggest a temple, 
 and the deep tone of the fall is as organ music. It is all beauty, 
 solemnity, and worship. 
 
 It was sad to leave it and to think how very few eyes can 
 ever feast themselves on its beauty. AVe came back again into 
 gladness and sunshine, and to the vulgar necessity of eating, 
 which the natives ministered to by presenting us with a sub- 
 stantial meal of stewed fowls and sweet potatoes at the nearest 
 cabin. There must have been something intoxicating in the 
 air, for we rode wildly and recklessly, galloping down steep 
 hills (which on principle I object to), and putting our horses 
 to their utmost speed. Mine ran off with me several times, 
 and once nearly upset Mr. M.'s horse, as he probably will tell 
 you. 
 
 The natives annoy me everywhere by their inhumanity to 
 their horses. To-day I became an object of derision to them 
 for hunting for sow-thistles, and bringing back a large bundle 
 of them to my excellent animal. They starve their horses from 
 mere carelessness or laziness, spur them mercilessly, when the 
 jaded, famished things almost drop from exhaustion, ride 
 them with great sores under the saddles, and with their bodies 
 deeply cut with the rough girths ; and though horses are not 
 regarded as more essential in any part of the world, they ne- 
 glect and maltreat them in every way, and laugh scornfully if 
 one shows any consideration for them. Except for short 
 shopping distances in Honolulu, I have never seen a native 
 man or woman walking. They think walking a degradation, 
 and I have seen men take the trouble to mount horses to go 
 100 yards. 
 
 Afterwards we made a three days' expedition into the heart 
 of the nearer mountainous district, attended by seven mounted 
 natives. Mr. K., from whose house we started, has the finest 
 mango grove on the islands. It is a fine foliaged tree, but is 
 everywhere covered with a black blight, which gives the groves 
 the appearance of being in mourning, as the tough, glutinous 
 film covers all the older leaves. The mango is an exotic fruit, 
 and people think a great deal of it, and send boxes of mangoes 
 as presents to their friends. It is yellow, with a reddish 
 bloom, something like a magnum bonum plum, three times 
 magnified. The only way of eating it in comfort is to have a 
 tub of water beside you. It should be eaten in private by any 
 one who wants to retain the admiration of his friends. It 
 
2o8 I£A WAIT. [letter xxi. 
 
 has an immense stone, and a disproportionately small pulp. I 
 think it tastes strongly of turpentine at first, but this is a 
 heresy. 
 
 Beyond Waielva and its mango groves there is a very curious 
 sand bank about 60 feet high, formed by wind and currents, 
 and of a steep, uniform angle from top to bottom. It is very 
 coarse sand, composed of shells, coral, and lava. When two 
 handfuls are slapped together, a sound like the barking of a 
 dog ensues, hence its name, the Barking Sands. It is a 
 common amusement with strangers to slide their horses down 
 the steep incline, which produces a sound like subterra- 
 nean thunder, which terrifies unaccustomed animals. Besides 
 this phenomenon, the mirage is often seen on the dry, hot 
 soil, and so perfectly, too, that strangers have been known 
 to attempt to ride round the large lake which they saw before 
 them. 
 
 Pleasant as our mountain trip was, both in itself, and as a 
 specimen of the way in which foreigners recreate themselves 
 on the islands, I was glad to get back to the broad Waimea, 
 on which long shadows of palms reposed themselves in the 
 slant sunshine, and in the short red twilight to a,rrive at this 
 breezy height, and be welcomed by a blazing fire. 
 
 Mrs. , in speaking of the mode of living here, was 
 
 telling me that on a recent visit to England she felt depressed 
 the whole time by what appeared to her " the scarcity " in the 
 country. I never knew the meaning of the Old Testament 
 blessing of "plenty" and "bread to the full" till I was in 
 abundant Victoria, and it is much the same here. At home 
 we know nothing of this, which was one of the chiefest of 
 the blessings promised in the Old Testament. Its genialising 
 effect is very obvious. A man feels more practically indepen- 
 dent, possibly, when he can say to all his friends, " Drop in to 
 dinner whenever you like," than if he possessed the franchise 
 six times over; and people tan indulge in hospitality and 
 exercise the franchise, too, here, for meat is only twopence a 
 pound, and bananas can be got for the gathering. The ever- 
 increasing cost of food with us, and the ever-increasing love of 
 display, wither up all those kindly instincts which find expres- 
 sion in housing and feeding both friends and strangers. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXII. 
 
 Koloa Woods — Bridal Rejoicings — Native Peculiarities — Missionary- 
 Matters — Risks attending an exclusively Native Ministry. 
 
 LiHUE, Kauai. 
 
 I RODE from Makaueli to Dr. Smith's, at Koloa, with two 
 native attendants, a luna to sustain my dignity, and an in- 
 ferior native to carry my carpet-bag. Horses are ridden with 
 curb-bits here, and I had only brought a light snaffle, and my 
 horse ran away with me again on the road, and when he 
 stopped at last, these men rode alongside of me, mimicking 
 me, throwing themselves back with their feet forwards, tugging 
 at their bridles, and shrieking with laughter, exclaiming 
 Maikai! Maikai ! (good). 
 
 I remained several days at Koloa, and would gladly have 
 accepted the hospitable invitation to stay as many weeks, but 
 for a cowardly objection to "beating to windward" in the 
 Jenfiy. One day, the girls asked me to go with them to the 
 forests and return by moonlight, but they only spoke of them 
 as the haunts of ferns, because they supposed that I should 
 think nothing of them after the forests of Australia and New 
 Zealand ! They were not like the tropical woods of Hawaii, 
 and owe more to the exceeding picturesqueness of the natural 
 scenery. Hawaii is all domes and humps, Kauai all peaks 
 and sierras. There were deep ravines, along which bright, 
 fern-shrouded streams brawled among wild bananas, overarched 
 by Eugenias, with their gory blossoms : walls of peaks, and 
 broken precipices, grey ridges rising out of the blue forest 
 gloom, high mountains with mists wreathing their spiky 
 summits, for a background : gleams of a distant silver sea : 
 and the nearer, many-tinted woods were not matted together 
 in jungle fashion, but festooned and adorned with numberless 
 lianas, and even the prostrate trunks of fallen trees took on 
 
2IO HAWAII. [LETTER xxn. 
 
 new beauty from the exquisite ferns which covered them. 
 Long cathedral aisles stretched away in far-off vistas, and 
 so perfect at times was the Gothic illusion, that I found 
 myself listening for anthems and the roll of organs. So cool 
 and moist it was, and triumphantly redundant in vagaries of 
 form and greenery, it was a forest of forests, and it became 
 a necessity to return the next day, and the next; and I 
 think if I had remained at Koloa I should have been re- 
 turning still ! 
 
 This place is outside the beauty, among cane-fields, and i& 
 much swept by the trade winds. Mr. Rice, my host, is the 
 son of an esteemed missionary, and he and his wife take a 
 deep interest in the natives. When he brought her here as a 
 bride a few months ago, the natives were so delighted that he 
 had married an island lady who could speak Hawaiian, that 
 they gave them an ahaaina, or native feast, on a grapd scale. 
 The food was cooked in Polynesian style, by being wrapped 
 up in greens called luaii, and baked underground. There were 
 two bullocks, nineteen hogs, a hundred fowls, any quantity of 
 foi and fruit, and innumerable native dishes. Five hundred 
 natives, profusely decorated with Ids of flowers and maU'e, were 
 there, and each brought a gift for the bride. After the feast 
 they chaunted meUs in praise of Mr. Rice, and Mrs. Rice 
 played to them on her piano, an instrument which they had 
 not seen before, and sang songs to them in Hawaiian. Mr. 
 and Mrs. R. teach in and superintend a native Sunday-school, 
 and have enlisted twenty native teachers, and in order to keep, 
 up the interest and promote cordial feeling, they and the 
 other teachers meet once a month for a regular teachers' 
 meeting, taking the houses in rotation. Refreshments are' 
 served afterwards, and they say that nothing can be more 
 agreeable than the good feeling at the meetings, and the tact 
 and graceful hospitality which prevail at the subsequent 
 entertainments. 
 
 The Hawaiians are a most pleasant people to foreigners, but 
 many of their ways are altogether aggravating. Unlike the 
 Chinamen, they seldom do a thing right twice. In my expe- 
 rience, they have almost never saddled and bridled my horse 
 quite correctly. Either a strap has been left unbuckled, or the 
 blanket has been wrinkled under the saddle. They are too 
 easy to care much about anything. If any serious loss arises 
 to themselves or others through their carelessness, they shrug 
 their shoulders, and say, "What does it matter?" Any 
 
A FOREST STREAM IN KAUAI. 
 
LETTER xxn.] NATIVE PECULIARITIES. 213 
 
 trouble is just ^.piUkia. They can't help it. If they lose your 
 horse from neglecting to tether it, they only laugh when they 
 find you are wanting to proceed on your journey. Time, they 
 think, is nothing to any one. " What's the use of being in a 
 hurry ? " Their neglect of their children, a cause from which 
 a large proportion of the few that are born perish, is a part of 
 this universal carelessness. The crime of infanticide, which 
 formerly prevailed to a horrible extent, has long been extinct ; 
 but the love of pleasure and the dislike of trouble which par- 
 tially actuated it, are apparently still stronger among the women 
 than the maternal instinct, and they do not take the trouble 
 necessary to rear their infants. They give their children away, 
 too, to a great extent, and I have heard of instances in which 
 children have been so passed from hand to hand, that they are 
 quite ignorant of their real parents. It is an odd caprice in 
 some cases, that women who have given away their own 
 children are passionately attached to those whom they have 
 received as presents, but I have nowhere seen such tender- 
 ness lavished upon infants as upon the pet dogs that the 
 women carry about with them. Though they are so deficient 
 in adhesiveness to family ties, that wives seek other husbands, 
 and even children desert their parents for adoptive homes, the 
 tie of race is intensely strong, and they are remarkably affec- 
 tionate to each other, sharing with each other food, clothing, 
 and all that they possess. There are no paupers among them 
 but the lunatics and the lepers, and vagrancy is unknown. 
 Happily on these sunny shores no man or woman can be 
 tempted into sin by want 
 
 With all their faults, and their intolerable carelessness, all 
 the foreigners like them, partly from the absolute security 
 which they enjoy among them. They are so thoroughly 
 good-natured, mirthful, and friendly, and so ready to enter 
 heart and soul into all haole diversions, that the islands would 
 be dreary indeed if the dwindling race became extinct. 
 
 Among the many misfortunes of the islands, it has been a 
 fortunate thing that the missionaries' families have turned out 
 so well, and that there is no ground for the common reproach 
 that good men's sons turn out reprobates. 
 
 The Americans show their usual practical sagacity in mis- 
 sionary matters. In 1853, when these islands were nominally 
 Christianised, and a native ministry consisting of fifty-six pastors 
 had been established, the American Board of Missions, which 
 had expended during thirty-five years nine hundred and three 
 
214 HAWAII. [letter XXII. 
 
 thousand dollars in Christianising the group, and had sent out 
 149 male and female missionaries, resolved that it should not 
 receive any further aid either in men or money. 
 
 In the early days, the King and chiefs had bestowed lands 
 upon the Mission, on which substantial mission premises had 
 been erected, and on withdrawing from the islands, the Board 
 wisely made over these lands to the Mission families as free- 
 hold property. The result has been that, instead of a universal 
 migration of the young people to America, numbers of them 
 have been attached to Hawaiian soil. The establishment at 
 an early date of Punahou College, at which for a small sum 
 both boys and girls receive a first-class English education, also 
 contributed to retain them on the islands, and numbers of the 
 young men entered into sugar-growing, cattle-raising, store- 
 keeping, and other businesses here. At Honolulu and Hilo a 
 large proportion of the residents of the upper class are mis- 
 sionaries' children; most of the respectable foreigners on 
 Kauai are either belonging to, or intimately connected with, 
 the Mission families ; and they are profusely scattered through 
 Maui and Hawaii in various capacities, and are bound to each 
 other by ties of extreme intimacy and friendliness, as well as 
 by marriage and affinity. This " clan " has given society 
 what it much wants — a sound moral core, and in spite of all 
 disadvantageous influences, has successfully upheld a public 
 opinion in favour of religion and virtue. The members of it 
 possess the moral backbone of New England, and its soUd 
 good qualities, a thorough knowledge of the language and 
 habits of the natives, a hereditary interest in them, a solid 
 education, and in many cases much general culture. 
 
 In former letters I have mentioned Mr. Coan and Mr. Lyons 
 as missionaries. I must correct this, as there have been no 
 actual missionaries on the islands for twenty years. When 
 the Board withdrew its support, many of the missionaries re- 
 turned to America; some, especially among the secular 
 members, went into other positions on the group, while the 
 two first-mentioned and two or three besides, remained as 
 pastors of native congregations. 
 
 I venture to think that the Board has been premature in 
 transferring the islands to a native pastorate at such a very 
 early stage of their Christianity. Such a pastorate must be too 
 feeble to uphold a robust Christian standard of living. As an 
 adjunct it would be essential to the stability of native Chris- 
 tianity, but it is not possible that it can be trusted as the sole 
 
LETTER xxii.] MISSIONARY MATTERS. 215 
 
 depository of doctrine and discipline, and even were it all it 
 ought to be, it would lack the power to repress the lax morality 
 which is ruining the nation. Probably each year will render 
 the overhaste of this course more apparent, and it is likely that 
 some other mode of upholding pure Christianity will have to 
 be adopted, when the venerable men who now sustain and 
 guide the native pastors by their influence shall have been 
 gathered to their rest. 
 
 I. L. B, 
 
LETTER XXIII. 
 
 " Sundowning "— An Evening Ride— The "Vale of Hanalei — Exquisite 
 Enjoyment—" Pamela." 
 
 LiHUE, Kauai, Ap-il 17. 
 
 Before leaving Kauai I must tell you of a solitary expedi- 
 tion I have just made to the lovely valley of Hanalei. It was 
 only a three days' " frolic," but an essentially " good time." 
 Mr. Rice provided me with a horse and a very pleasing native 
 guide. I did not leave till two in the afternoon, as I only in- 
 tended to ride fifteen miles, and, as the custom is, ask for a 
 night's lodging at a settler's house. However, as I drew near 
 Mr. B.'s ranch, I felt my false courage oozing out of the tips of 
 my fingers, and as I rode up to the door, certain obnoxious 
 colonial words, such as " sundowners," and " bummers," oc- 
 curred to me, and I felt myself a " sundowner " when the host 
 came out and asked me to dismount. He said he was sorry 
 his wife was away, but he would do his best for me in her ab 
 sence, and took me down to a room where a very rough-look- 
 ing man was tenderly nursing a baby a year old, which was 
 badly burned or scalded, and which began to cry violently at 
 my entrance, and required the united efforts of the two be- 
 reaved men to pacify it. I took it while they went to make 
 some tea, and it kicked, roared, and fought until they came 
 back. By that time I had prepared a neat little speech, 
 saying that I was not the least tired, and would only trouble 
 them for a glass of water; and, having covered my cowardice 
 successfully, I went on, having been urged by the hospitable 
 ranchman to be sure to stay for the night at his father-in-law's 
 house, a few miles further on. I saw that the wishes of the 
 native went in the same direction, but after this experience I 
 assured myself that I had not the necessary nerve for this 
 species of mendicancy, and went on as fast as the horse could 
 
LETTER xxui.] AN EVENING RIDE. 217 
 
 gallop wherever the ground admitted of it, the scenery be- 
 coming more magnificent as the dark, frowning mountains of 
 Hanalei loomed through the gathering twilight. 
 
 But they were fifteen miles off, and on the way we came to a 
 broad, beautiful ravine, through which a wide, deep river glided 
 into the breakers. I had received some warnings about this, 
 but it was supposed that we could cross in a ferry scow, of 
 which, however, I only found the bones. The guide and the 
 people at the fenyman's house talked long without result, but 
 eventually, by many signs, I contrived to get them to take 
 me over in a crazy punt, half full of water, and the horses 
 swam across. Before we reached the top of the ravine, the last 
 redness of twilight had died from off the melancholy ocean, 
 the black forms of mountains looked huge in the darkness, and 
 the wind sighed so eerily through the creeking lauhalas, as to add 
 much to the effect. It became so very dark that I could only 
 just see my horse's ears, and we found ourselves occasionally 
 in odd predicaments, such as getting into crevices, or dipping 
 off from steep banks ; and it was in dense darkness that we 
 arrived above what appeared to be a valley with twinkling 
 lights, lying at the foot of a precipice, and walled in on all sides 
 but one by lofty mountains. It was rather queer, diving over 
 the wooded Jiali on a narrow track, with nothing in sight but 
 the white jacket of the native, who had already indicated that 
 he was at the end of his resources regarding the way, but just 
 as a river gleamed alarmingly through the gloom, a horseman 
 on a powerful horse brushed through the wood, and on being 
 challenged in Hawaiian replied in educated English, and very 
 politely turned with me, and escorted me over a disagree- 
 able ferry in a scow without rails, and to my destination, two 
 miles beyond. 
 
 Yesterday, when I left, the morning was brilliant, and after 
 ascending the pali, I stayed for some time on an eminence 
 which commands the valley, presented by Mr. Wyllie to Lady 
 Franklin, in compliment to her admiration of its loveliness. 
 Hanalei has been likened by some to Paradise, and by others 
 to the Vale of Kaschmir. Everyone who sees it raves about 
 it. " See Hanalei and die," is the feeling of the islanders, and 
 certainly I was not disappointed, nor should I be with Paradise 
 itself were it even a shade less fair ! It has every element of 
 beauty, and in the bright sunshine, with the dark shadows on 
 the mountains, the waterfalls streaking their wooded sides, the 
 river rushing under kukuis and ohias, and then lingering lovingly 
 
2i8 HAWAII. [letter xxiii. 
 
 amidst lively greenery, it looked as if the curse had never 
 lighted there. 
 
 Its mouth, where it opens on the Pacific, is from two to three 
 miles wide, but the boundary mountains gradually approach 
 each other, so that five miles from the sea a narrow gorge of 
 wonderful beauty alone remains. The crystal Hanalei flows 
 placidly to the sea for the last three or four miles, tired by its 
 impetuous rush from the mountains, and mirrors on its breast 
 hundreds of acres of cane, growing on a plantation formerly 
 belonging to Mr. Wyllie, an enterprising Ayrshire man, and one 
 of the ablest and most disinterested foreigners who ever admi- 
 nistered Hawaiian affairs. Westward of the valley there is 
 a region of mountains, slashed by deep ravines. The upper 
 ridges are densely timbered, and many of the ohias have a cir- 
 cumference of twenty-five feet, three feet from the ground. It 
 was sad to turn away for ever from the loveliness of Hanalei, 
 even though by taking another route, which involved a ride of 
 forty miles, I passed through and in view of, most entrancing 
 picturesqueness. Indeed, for mere loveliness, I think that part 
 of Kauai exceeds anything that I have seen. 
 
 The atmosphere and scenery were so glorious that it was 
 possible to think of nothing all day, but just allow oneself pas- 
 sively to drink in sensations of exquisite pleasure. I wish all 
 the hard- worked people at home, who lead joyless lives in sun- 
 less alleys, could just have one such day, and enjoy it as I did, 
 that they might know how fair God's eartla is, and how fairer His 
 Paradise must be, if even from this we cannot conceive " of 
 the things which He hath prepared for them that love Him." 
 I never before felt so sad for those whose lives are passed 
 amidst unpropitious surroundings, or so thankful for my own 
 capacity of enjoying nature. 
 
 Just as we were coming up out of a deep river, a native 
 riding about six feet from me was caught in a quicksand. He 
 jumped off", but the horse sank half way up its body. I wanted 
 to stay and see it extricated, for its struggles only sank it 
 deeper, but the natives shrugged their shoulders, and said in 
 Hawaiian, " only a horse," and something they always say when 
 anything happens, equivalent to " What's the odds ? " It was 
 a joyously-exciting day, and I was galloping down a grass hill 
 at a pace which I should not have assumed had white people 
 been with me, when a native rode up to me and said twice 
 over, "maikai! paniola," and laughed heartily. When my 
 native came up, he pointed to me and again said, "paniola; " 
 
LETTER XXIII.] " PANIOLA." 2I9 
 
 and afterwards we were joined by two women, to whom my 
 guide spoke of me as paniola ; and on coming to the top of a 
 hill they put their horses into a gallop, and we all rode down 
 at a tremendous, and, as I should once have thought, a break- 
 neck speed, when one of the women patted me on the shoulder, 
 exclaiming, "maikai! maikail paniola." I thought they said 
 " spaniola," taking me for a Spaniard, but on reaching Lihue, 
 and asking the meaning of the word, Mrs. Rice said, " Oh, 
 lassoing cattle, and all that kind of thing." I was disposed to 
 accept the inference as a compliment ; but when I told Mrs. R. 
 that the word had been applied to myself, she laughed very 
 much, and said she would have toned down its meaning had 
 she known that ■ 
 
 We rode through forests lighted up by crimson flowers, 
 through mountain valleys greener than Alpine meadows, de- 
 scended steep palis, and forded deep, strong rivers, pausing at 
 the beautiful Wailua Falls, which leap in a broad sheet of foam 
 and a heavy body of water into a dark basin, walled in by 
 cliffs so hard that even the ferns and mosses which revel in 
 damp, fail to find roothold in the naked rock. Both above and 
 below, this river passes through a majestic canon, and its neigh- 
 bourhood abounds in small cones, some with crateriform cavi- 
 ties at the top, some broken down, and others, apparently of 
 great age, wooded to their summits. A singular ridge, called 
 Mauna Kalalea, runs along this part of the island, picturesque 
 beyond anything, and, from its abruptness and peculiar forma- 
 tion, it deceives the eye into judging it to be as high as the 
 gigantic domes of Hawaii. Its peaks are needle-like, or else 
 blunt projections of columnar basalt, rising ofttimes as ter- 
 races. At a beautiful village called Anahola the ridge termi- 
 nates abruptly, and its highest portion is so thin that a large 
 patch of sky can be seen through a hole which has been worn 
 in it. 
 
 I reached Lihue by daylight, having established my reputa- 
 tion as a. paniola by riding forty miles in 7^ hours, " very good 
 time " for the islands. I hope to return here in August, as my 
 hospitable friends will not allow me to leave on any other con- 
 dition. The kindness I have received on Kauai is quite over- 
 whelming, and I shall remember its refined and virtuous homes 
 as long as its loveliness and delicious climate. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
220 HAWAII. [letter xxiii. 
 
 Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu, April 2yd. 
 
 I have nothing new to add. Mr. De.Kter is so far recovered 
 that I fear I shall not find my friends here on my return. 
 People are in the usual fever about the mail, and I must close 
 this. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXIV. 
 
 The Princess Keelikolani — The Paradise of Maui — An Island Sahara — 
 The Dead Volcano of Haleakala — Cloud Scenery— Maui Hospitality. 
 
 Ulupaiakua, Maui, May 12th. 
 
 It is three weeks since I left the Hawaiian Hotel and its 
 green mist of algarobas, but my pleasant visits in this island 
 do not furnish much that will interest you. There was great 
 excitement on the wharf at Honolulu the evening I left. It 
 was crowded with natives, the king's band was playing, old 
 hags were chanting melh, and several of the royal family, and 
 of the " upper ten thousand " were there, taking leave of the 
 Governess of Hawaii, the Princess Keelikolani, the late king's 
 half-sister. The throng and excitement were so great, that we 
 were outside the reef before I got a good view of this lady, the 
 largest and the richest woman on the islands. Her size and 
 appearance are most unfortunate, but she is said to be good and 
 kind. She was dressed in a very common black holoku, with a 
 red bandana round her throat, round which she wore a le of 
 immense oleanders, as well as round her hair, which was cut 
 short. She had a large retinue, and her female attendants all 
 wore leis of oleander. They spread very fine mats on the deck, 
 under pulu beds, covered with gorgeous quilts, on which the 
 Princess and her suite slept, and in the morning the beds were 
 removed, breakfast was spread on the mats, and she, some of 
 her attendants, and two or three white men who received in- 
 vitations, sat on the deck round it. It was a far less attractive 
 meal than that which the serene steward served below. The 
 calabashes, which contained the pale pink poi, were of highly 
 polished kou wood, but there were no foreign refinements. The 
 other dishes were several kinds of raw fish, dried devil-fish, 
 boiled kalo, sweet potatoes, bananas, and cocoa-nut milk. 
 
 I had a very uncomfortable night on a mattress on the deck, 
 which was overcrowded with natives, and some of the native 
 
222 HAWAII. [letter XXIV. 
 
 women and two foreigners had got a whisky bottle, and be- 
 haved disgracefully. We went round by the Leper Island. 
 
 I landed at Maaleia, on the leeward side of the sandy 
 isthmus which unites East and West Maui, got a good horse, 
 
 and, with Mr. G , rode across to the residence of " Father 
 
 Alexander," at Wailuku, a flourishing district of sugar planta- 
 tions. Mr. and Mrs. Alexander were among the early mission- 
 aries, and still live on the mission premises. Several of their 
 sons are settled on the island in the sugar business, and it was 
 to the Heiku plantation, fifteen miles off, of which Mr. S. 
 . Alexander is manager, that I went on the following day, still 
 escorted by Mr. G— — ■. Here we heard that captains of 
 schooners which had arrived from Hawaii, report that a light 
 is visible on the terminal crater of Mauna Loa, 14,000 feet 
 above the sea, that Kilauea, the flank crater, is unusually 
 active, and that several severe shocks of earthquake have been 
 felt. This is exciting news. 
 
 Behind Wailuku is the lao valley, up which I rode with two 
 island friends, and spent a day of overflowing, satisfied admi- 
 ration. At lao people may throw away pen and pencil in equal 
 despair. The trail leads down a gorge dark with forest trees, 
 which then opens out into an amphitheatre, walled in by preci- 
 pices, from three to six thousand feet high, misty with a thousand 
 waterfalls, plumed with kukuis, and feathery with ferns. A 
 green-clad needle of stone, one thousand feet in height, the 
 last refuge of an army routed when the Wailuku (waters of 
 destruction) ran red with blood, keeps guard over the valley. 
 Other needles there are ; and mimic ruins of bastions, ram- 
 parts, and towers came and passed mysteriously : and the 
 shining fronts of turrets gleamed through trailing mists, changing 
 into drifting visions of things that came and went in sunshine 
 and shadow, mountains raising battered peaks into a cloudless 
 sky, green crags moist with ferns, and mists of water that could 
 not fall, , but frittered themselves away on slopes of maiden- 
 hair, and depths of forest and ferns through which bright 
 streams warble through the summer years. Clouds boiling up 
 from below drifted at times across the mountain fronts, or lay 
 like snow masses in the unsunned chasms : and over the grey 
 crags and piled up pinnacles, and glorified green of the mar- 
 vellous vision, lay a veil of thin blue haze, steeping the whole 
 in a serenity which seemed hardly to belong to earth. 
 
 The track from Wailuku to Heiku is over a Sahara in minia- 
 ture, a dreary expanse of sand and shifting sandhills, with a 
 
LETTER XXIV.] AN ISLAND SAHARA. 223 
 
 rare, dismal growth of thornless thistles and indigo, and a tre- 
 mendous surf thunders on the margin. Trackless, glaring, 
 choking, a guide is absolutely necessary to a stranger, for the 
 footprints or wheel-marks of one moment are obliterated the 
 next. I crossed the isthmus three times, and the third time 
 was quite as incapable of shaping my course across it as the 
 first, and though I had recklessly declined a guide, was only 
 too thankful for the one who was forced upon me. It is a 
 hateful ride, yet anything so hideous and aggressively odious is 
 a salutary experience in a land of so much beauty. Sand, sand,, 
 sand ! Sand-hills, smooth and red ; sand-plains, rippled, white, 
 and glaring ; sand drifts shifting ; sand clouds whirling ; sand 
 in your eyes, nose, and mouth j sand stinging your face like- 
 pin points ; sand hiding even your horse's ears ; sand rippling 
 like waves, hissing like spin-drift, malignant, venomous ! You 
 can only open one eye at a time for a wink at where yoit 
 are going. Looking down upon it from Heiku, you can see 
 nothing all day but the dense brown clouds of a perpetual 
 sand-storm. 
 
 My charming hostess and her husband made Heiku so 
 fascinating, that I only quitted it hoping to return. The object 
 which usually attracts strangers to Maui is the great dead 
 volcano of Haleakala, " The house of the sun," and I was 
 fortunate in all the circumstances of my ascent. My host at 
 Heiku provided me with a horse and native attendant, and I 
 rode over the evening before to the house of his brother, Mr. 
 J. Alexander, who accompanied me, and his intelligent and 
 cultured society was one of the pleasures of the day. 
 
 People usually go up in the afternoon, camp near the summit, 
 light a fire, are devoured by fleas, roast and freeze alternately 
 till morning, and get up to see the grand spectacle of the sun- 
 rise, but I think our plan preferable, of leaving at two in the 
 morning. The moon had set. It was densely dark, and it was 
 raining on one side of the road, though quite fine on the other. 
 By the lamplight which streamed from our early breakfast table, 
 I only saw wet mules and horses, laden with gear for a mountain 
 ascent, a trim little Japanese, who darted about helping, my 
 native, who was picturesquely dressed in a Mexican poncho, 
 Mr. Alexander, who wore something which made him unrecog- 
 nisable ; and myself, a tatterdemalion figure, wearing a much- 
 worn green topcoat of his over my riding suit, and a tartan 
 shawl arranged so as to fall nearly to my feet. Then we went 
 forth into the darkness. The road soon degenerated into a 
 
224 HAWAII. [letter xxiv. 
 
 wood road, then into a bridle track, then into a mere trail 
 ascending all the way ; and at dawn, when the rain was over, 
 we found ourselves more than half-way up the mountain, amidst 
 rocks, scoria, tussocks, ohelos, a few common compositae, and a 
 few coarse ferns and woody plants, which became coarser and 
 scantier the higher we went up, but never wholly ceased ; for, 
 at the very summit, 10,200 feet high, there are some tufts of 
 grass, and stunted specimens of a common asplenium in clefts. 
 Many people suffer from mountain sickness on this ascent, but 
 I suffered from nothing but the excruciating cold, which be- 
 numbed my limbs and penetrated to my bones ; and though I 
 dismounted several times and tried to walk, uphill exercise was 
 impossible in the rarefied air. The atmosphere was but one 
 degree below the freezing-point, but at that height, a brisk 
 breeze on soaked clothes was scarcely bearable. 
 
 The sunrise turned the densely packed clouds below into 
 great rosy masses, which broke now and then, showing a vivid 
 blue sea, and patches of velvety green. At seven, after toiling 
 over a last steep bit, among scoriae, and some very scanty and 
 unlovely vegetation, we reached what was said to be the summit, 
 where a ragged wall of rock shut out the forward view. Dis- 
 mounting on some cinders, we stepped into a gap, and from 
 thence looked down into the most gigantic crater on the earth. 
 I confess that with the living fires of Kilauea in my memory, I 
 was at first disappointed with the deadness of a volcano of 
 whose activity there are no traditions extant. Though during 
 the hours which followed, its majesty and wonderment grew 
 upon me, yet a careful study of the admirable map of the crater, 
 a comparison of the heights of the very considerable cones 
 which are buried within it, and the attempt to realize the figures 
 which represent its circumference, area, and depth, not only 
 give a far better idea of it than any verbal description, but 
 impress its singular sublimity and magnitude upon one far more 
 forcibly than a single visit to the actual crater. 
 
 I mentioned in one of my first letters that East Maui, that 
 part of the island which lies east of the isthmus of perpetual 
 dust-storms, consists of a mountain dome 10,000 feet in height, 
 with a monstrous base. Its slopes are very regular, varying 
 from eight to ten degrees. Its lava-beds differ from those of 
 Kauai and Oahu in being lighter in colour, less cellular, and 
 more impervious to water. The windward side of the mountain 
 is gashed and slashed by streams, which in their violence have 
 excavated large pot-holes, which serve as reservoirs, and it is 
 
LEiTER XXIV.] INTERIOR OF THE CRATER. 225 
 
 covered to a height of over 2000 feet by a luxuriant growth of 
 timber. On the leeward side, several black and very fresh- 
 looking streams of lava run into the sea, and the whole coast 
 for some height above the shore shows most vigorous volcanic 
 action. Elsewhere the rock is red and broken, and lateral 
 cones abound near the base. 
 
 The ascent from Makawao, though it is over rather a desolate 
 tract of land, has in its lower stages such a dismal growth of 
 pining koa and spurious sandal-wood, and in its upper ones so 
 much ohelo scrub, with grass and common aspleniums quite up 
 to the top, that as one sits lazily on one's sure-footed horse, the 
 fact that one is ascending a huge volcano is not forced upon 
 one by any overmastering sterility and nakedness. Somehow, 
 one expects to pass through some ulterior stage of blackness up 
 to the summit It is no such thing ; and the great surprise of 
 Haleakala to me was, that when according to calculation there 
 should have been a summit, an abyss of vast dimensions opened 
 below. The mountain top has been in fact blown ofiF, and one 
 is totally powerless to imagine what the forces must have been 
 which rent it asunder. 
 
 The crater was clear of fog and clouds, and lighted in every 
 part by the risen sun. The whole, with its contents, can be 
 seen at a single glance, though its girdling precipices are nine- 
 teen miles in extent. Its huge, irregular floor is 2000 feet 
 below ; New York might be hidden away within it, with abun- 
 dant room to spare ; and more than one of the numerous sub- 
 sidiary cones which uplift themselves solitary or in clusters 
 through the area, attain the height of Arthur's Seat at Edinburgh. 
 On the north and east are the Koolau and Kaupo Gaps, as 
 deep as the crater, through which oceans of lava found their 
 way to the sea. It looks as if the volcanic forces, content with 
 rending the mountain top in twain, had then passed into an 
 endless repose. 
 
 The crater appears to be composed of a hard grey clink- 
 stone, much fissured ; but lower down the mountain, the rock 
 is softer, and has a bluish tinge. The internal cones are of 
 very regular shape, and most of them look as if their fires had 
 only just gone out, with their sides fiercely red, and their 
 central cavities lined with layers of black ash. They are all 
 composed of cinders of light specific gravity, and much of the 
 ash is tinged with the hydrated oxide of iron. Very few of 
 the usual volcanic products are present.'* Small quantities of 
 * According to Mr. Brigham, the products of the Hawaiian volcanoes 
 
236 HA WAIT. [letter xxiv. 
 
 sulphur, in a very impure form, exist here and there, but there 
 are no sulphur or steam-cracks, or hot springs, on any part of 
 the mountain. With its cold ashes and dead force, it is a most 
 tremendous spectacle of the power of fire. 
 
 Some previous travellers had generously left some faggots on 
 the summit, and we made a large fire for warmth, and I rolled 
 my blanket round me, and sat with my feet among the hot 
 embers, but all to no purpose. The wind was strong and keen, 
 and the fierce splendour of the tropic sun conveyed no heat. 
 Mr. A. went away investigating, the native rolled himself in his 
 poncho and fell asleep by the fire, and I divided the time 
 between glimpses into the awful desolation of the crater, 
 snatched between the icy gusts of wind, and the enjoyment of 
 the wonderful cloud scenery which to everybody is a great 
 charm of the view from Haleakala. The day was perfect ; for 
 first we had an inimitable view of the crater and all that could 
 be seen from the mountain-top, and then an equally inimitable, 
 view of Cloudland. There was the ga.unt, hideous, desolate 
 abyss, with its fiery cones, its rivers and surges of black lava 
 and grey ash crossing and mingling all over the area, mixed with 
 splotches of colour and coils of satin rock, its walls dark and 
 irowning, everywhere riven and splintered, and clouds perpetu- 
 ally drifting in through the great gaps, and filling up the whole 
 crater with white, swirling masses, which in a few minutes 
 melted away in the sunshine, leaving it all as sharply definite 
 as before. Before noon clouds surrounded the whole mountain, 
 not in the vague, floctulent, meaningless masses one usually 
 sees, but in Arctic oceans, where lofty icebergs, floes and pack, 
 lay piled on each other, glistening with the frost of a Polar 
 winter; then alps on alps, and peaks of well remembered 
 ranges gleaming above glaciers, and the semblance of forests 
 in deep ravines loaded with new fallen snow. Snow-drifts, 
 avalanches, oceans held in bondage of eternal ice, and all this 
 massed together, shifting, breaking, glistering, filling up the 
 broad channel which divides Maui from Hawaii, and far away 
 above the lonely masses, rose, in turquoise blue, like distant 
 islands, the lofty Hawaiian domes of Mauna Kea and Mauna 
 Loa, with snow on Mauna Kea yet more dazzling than the 
 clouds. There never was a stranger contrast than between the 
 
 are : native sulphur, pyrites, salt, sal ammoniac, hydrochloric acid, 
 haematite, sulphurous acid, sulphuric acid, quartz, crystals, palagonite, 
 feldspar, chrysolite, Thompsonite, gypsum, solfatarite, copperas, nitre, 
 Aarragonite, Labradorite, limonite. 
 
LETTER XXIV.] CLOUDLAND. 227 
 
 hideous desolation of the crater below, and those blue and 
 jewelled summits rising above the shifting clouds. 
 
 After some time the scene shifted, and through glacial rifts 
 appeared as in a dream the Eeka mountains which enfold 
 the lao valley, broad fields of cane 8000 feet below, the 
 flushed, palm-fringed coast, and the deep blue sea sleeping in 
 perpetual calm. But according to the well-known fraud 
 which isolated altitudes perpetrate upon the eye, it appeared 
 as if we were looking up at our landscape, not down ; and no 
 effort of the eye or imagination would put things at their proper 
 levels. 
 
 But gradually the clouds massed themselves, the familiar 
 earth disappeared, and we were "pinnacled in mid-heaven " in 
 unutterable isolation, blank forgotten units, in a white, won- 
 derful, illuminated world, without permanence or solidity. 
 Our voices sounded thin in the upper air. The keen, incisive 
 wind that swept the summit, had no kinship with the soft 
 breezes which were rustling the tasselled cane in the green 
 fields of earth which had lately gleamed through the drift. It 
 was a new world and without sympathy, a solitude which 
 could be felt. Was it nearer God, I wonder, because so far 
 from man and his little works and ways? At least they 
 seemed little there, in presence of the tokens of a catastrophe 
 which had not only blown off a mountain top, and scattered it 
 over the island, but had disembowelled the mountain itself to- 
 a depth of 2000 feet. 
 
 Soon after noon we began to descend ; and in a hollow of 
 the mountain, not far from the ragged edge of the crater, then 
 filled up with billows of cloud, we came upon what we were 
 searching for; not, however, one or two, but thousands of 
 silverswords, their cold, frosted silver gleam making the hill-side 
 look like winter or moonlight. They can be preserved in their 
 beauty by putting them under a glass shade, but it must be of 
 monstrous dimensions, as the finer plants measure 2 ft. by 
 18 in. without the flower stalk. They exactly resemble the 
 finest work in frosted silver, the curve of their globular mass of 
 leaves is perfect, and one thinks of them rather as the base of 
 an epcrgiie for an imperial table, or as a prize at Ascot or Good- 
 wood, than as anything organic. A particular altitude and 
 temperature appear essential to them, and they are not found 
 straggling above or below a given line. 
 
 We reached Makawao very tired, soon after dark, to be 
 heartily congratulated on our successful ascent, and bearing 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 HAWAII. [letter xxiv. 
 
 no worse traces of it than lobster-coloured faces, badly 
 blistered. 
 
 After accepting sundry hospitalities I rode over here, skirt- 
 ing the mountain at a height of 2000 feet, a most tedious ride, 
 only enlivened by the blaze of nasturtiums in some of the 
 shallow gulches. It is very pretty here, and I wish all invalids 
 could revel in the sweet, changeless air. The name signifies 
 " ripe bread-fruit of the gods." The plantation is 2000 feet 
 above the sea, and is one of the finest on the islands ; and 
 owing to the slow maturity of the cane at so great a height, the 
 yield is from five to six tons an acre. Water is very scarce ; 
 all that is used in the boiling-house and elsewhere has been 
 carefully led into concrete tanks for storage, and even the walks 
 in the proprietor's beautiful garden are laid with cement for the 
 same purpose. He has planted many thousand Australian 
 eucalyptus trees on the hill-side in the hope of procuring a 
 larger rainfall, so that the neighbourhood has quite an exotic 
 appearance. Below, the coast is black and volcanic-looking, 
 jutting into the sea in naked lava promontories, which nature 
 has done nothing to drape. 
 
 Maui is very " foreign " and civilised, and although it has a 
 native population of over 1 2,000, the natives are much crowded 
 on plantations, and one encounters litfle of native Hfe. There 
 is a large society composed of planters' and merchants' families, 
 and the residents are profuse in their hospitality. It is not 
 infrequently taken undue advantage of, and I have heard of 
 planters compelled to feign excuses for leaving their houses, 
 in order to get rid of unintroduced and obnoxious visitors, 
 who have quartered themselves on them for weeks at a time. 
 It is wonderful that their patient hospitality is not worn out, 
 even though, as they say, they sometimes " entertain angels 
 unawares." 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXV. 
 
 Incidents of Travel — A New Light — Tropical Cold — A Hawaiian Desert — 
 A Mountain Sheep Station — Mauna Kea and its Tufa Cones. 
 
 Kalaieha, Hawaii. 
 
 My departure from Ulupalakua illustrates some of the uncer- 
 tainties of island travelling. On Monday night my things were 
 packed, and my trunk sent off to the landing ; but at five on 
 Tuesday, Mr. Whipple came to my door to say that the 
 Kilauea was not in the Lahaina roads, and was probably laid 
 up for repairs. I was much disappointed, for the mild climate 
 had disagreed with me, and I was longing for the roystering 
 winds and unconventional life of windward Hawaii, and there 
 was not another steamer for three weeks. 
 
 However, some time afterwards, I was unpacking, and in the 
 midst of a floor littered with ferns, photographs, books, and 
 clothes, when Mrs. W. rushed in to say that the steamer was 
 just reaching the landing below, and that there was scarcely the 
 barest hope of catching her. Hopeless as the case seemed, we 
 crushed most of my things promiscuously into a carpet bag, 
 Mr. W. rode off with it, a horse was imperfectly saddled for me, 
 and I mounted him, with my bag, straps, spurs, and a package 
 of ferns in one hand, and my plaid over the saddle, while Mrs. 
 W. stuifed the rest of my possessions into a clothes-bag, and 
 the Chinaman ran away frantically to catch a horse on which 
 to ride down with them. 
 
 I galloped off after Mr. W., though people called to me that 
 I could not catch the boat, and that my horse would fall on 
 the steep, broken descent. My saddle slipped over his 
 shoulders, but he still sped down the hill with the rapid "rack- 
 ing" movement of a Narraganset pacer. First a new veil 
 blew away, next my plaid was missing, then I passed my trunk 
 on the ox-cart which should have been at the landing ; but still, 
 
230 HAWAII. [letter xxv. 
 
 though the heat was fierce, and the glare from the black lava 
 blinding, I dashed heedlessly down, and in twenty minutes had 
 ridden three miles down a descent of 2000 feet, to find the 
 Kilauea puffing and smoking with her anchor up ; but I was in 
 time, for her friendly clerk, knowing that I was coming, de- 
 tained the scow. You will not wonder at my desperation when 
 I tell you that half-way down, a person called to me, " Mauna 
 Loa is in action ! " 
 
 While I was slipping off the saddle and bridle, Mr. W. 
 arrived with the carpet-bag, yet more over-heated and shaking 
 with exertion than I was, then the Chinaman with a bag of odd- 
 ments, next a native who had picked up my plaid and ferns on 
 the road, and another with my trunk, which he had rescued 
 from the ox-cart ; so I only lost my veil and two brushes, 
 ■which are irreplaceable here. 
 
 The quiet of the nine hours' trip in the Kilauea restored my 
 equanimity, and prepared me to enjoy the delicious evening 
 which followed. The silver waters of Kawaihae Bay reflected 
 the full moon, the three great mountains of Hawaii were cloud- 
 less as I had not before seen them, all the asperity of the lee- 
 ward shore was softened into beauty, and the long shadows of 
 bending palms were as still and perfect as the palms them- 
 selves. And there was a new' sight above the silver water, for 
 the huge dome of Mauna Loa, forty miles away, was burning 
 red and fitfully. Horses and a servant awaited me,, and we 
 were soon clattering over the hard sand by the shining sea, 
 and up the ascent which leads to the windy table-lands of 
 Waimea. The air was like new life. At a height of 500 feet 
 we met the first whiff' of the trades, the atmosphere grew cooler 
 and cooler, the night-wind fresher, the moonlight whiter ; wider 
 the sweeping uplands, redder the light of the burning moun- 
 tain, till I wrapped my plaid about me, but still was chilled to 
 the bone, and when the four hours' ride was over, soon after 
 midnight, my limbs were stiff with tropical cold. And this, 
 within 20° of the equator, and only 2500 feet above the fiery 
 sea-shore, with its temperature of 80°, where Sydney Smith 
 would certainly have desired to " take off his flesh, and sit in 
 his bones ! " 
 
 I delight in Hawaii more than ever, with its unconventional 
 life, great upland sweeps, unexplored forests, riotous breezes, 
 and general atmosphere of freedom, airiness, and expansion. 
 As I find that a lady can travel alone with perfect safety, I have 
 many projects in view, but whatever I do or plan to do, I 'find 
 
LETTER XXV.] THE DESERT OF HAWAII. 231 
 
 my eyes always turning to the light on the top of Mauna Loa. 
 I know that the ascent is not feasible for me, and that so far 
 as I am concerned the mystery must remain unsolved ; but 
 that glory, nearly 14,000 feet aloft, rising, falling, " a pillar of 
 cloud by day and a pillar of fire by night," uplifted in its awful 
 loneliness above all human interests, has an intolerable fascina- 
 tion. As the twilight deepens, the light intensifies, and often 
 as I watch it in the night, it seems to flare up and take the 
 form of a fiery palm-tree. No one has ascended the mountain 
 since the activity began a month ago ; but the fire is believed 
 to be in " the old traditional crater of Mokuaweoweo, in a 
 region rarely visited by man." 
 
 A few days ago I was so fortunate as to make the ac- 
 quaintance of Mr. W. L. Green (now Minister of Foreign 
 Affairs), an English resident in Honolulu, a gentleman of 
 wide scientific and literary culture,* one of whose objects 
 in visiting Hawaii is the investigation of certain volcanic 
 phenomena. He asked me to make the ascent of Mauna 
 Kea with him, and we have satisfactorily accomplished it 
 to-day. 
 
 The interior of the island, in which we have spent the last 
 two days, is totally different, not only from the luxuriant wind- 
 ward slopes, but from the fiery leeward margin. The altitude 
 of the central plateau is from 5000 to 6000 feet, there is not a 
 single native dwelling on it, or even a trail across it, it is totally 
 destitute of water, and sustains only a miserable scrub of 
 viaman'e, stunted ohias, ptkeawe, ohelos, a few compositas, and 
 some of the hardiest ferns. The transient residents of this 
 sheep station, and those of another on Hualalai, thirty miles 
 off, are the only human inhabitants of a region as large as 
 Kent. Wild goats, wild geese (Bernicla sandvicensis), and 
 the Melithreptes Pacifica, constitute its chief population. 
 These geese are web-footed, though water does not exist. 
 They build their nests in the grass, and lay two or three white 
 eggs. 
 
 Our track from Waimea lay for the first few miles over light 
 soil, destitute of any vegetation, across dry, glaring, rocky beds 
 of streams, and round the bases of numerous tufa cones, from 
 200 to 1500 feet in height, with steep, smooth sides, composed 
 of a very red ash. We crossed a flank of Mauna Kea at a 
 height of 6000 feet, and a short descent brought us out upon 
 
 * Author of a recent book, "The Molten Globe." 
 
232 ITA WAIT. [letter xxv. 
 
 this vast tableland, which lies between the bulbous domes of 
 Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai, the loneliest, saddest, 
 dreariest expanse I ever saw. 
 
 The air was dear and the sun bright, yet nothing softened 
 into beauty this formless desert of volcanic sand, stones, and 
 lava, on which tufts of grass and a harsh scrub war with wind 
 and drought for a loveless existence. Yet, such is the effect 
 of atmosphere, that Mauna Loa, utterly destitute of vegeta- 
 tion, and with his sides scored and stained by the black lava- 
 flows of ages, looked liked a sapphire streaked with lapis 
 lazuli. Nearly blinded by scuds of sand, we rode for hours 
 through the volcanic wilderness ; always the same rigid mamane, 
 (Sophora Chrysophylla ?) the same withered grass, and the 
 same thornless thistles, through which the strong wind swept 
 with a desolate screech. 
 
 The trail, which dips looo feet, again ascends, the country 
 becomes very wild, there are ancient craters of great height 
 densely wooded, wooded ravines, the great bulk of Mauna 
 Kea with his ragged crest towers above tumbled rocky regions, 
 which look as if nature, disgusted with her work, had broken 
 it to pieces in a passion ; there are living and dead trees, a 
 steep elevation, and below, a broad river of most jagged and 
 uneven a-a. The afternoon fog, which serves instead of rain, 
 rolled up in dense masses, through which we heard the plain- 
 tive bleating of sheep, and among blasted trees and distorted 
 rocks we came upon Kalaieha. 
 
 I have described the " foreign residences " elsewhere. Here 
 is one of another type, in which a wealthy sheepownefs son, 
 married to a very pretty native woman, leads for some months 
 in the year, from choice, a life so rough, that most people would 
 think it a hardship to lead it from necessity. There are two 
 apartments, a loft and a "lean-to." The hospitable owners 
 gave me their sleeping-room, which was divided from the 
 "living-room" by a canvas partition. This last has a rude 
 stone chimney split by an earthquake, holding fire enough to 
 roast an ox. Round it the floor is paved with great rough 
 stones. A fire of logs, fully three feet high, was burning, but 
 there was a faulty draught, and it emitted a stinging smoke. I 
 looked for something to sit upon, but there was nothing but a 
 high bench, or chopping-block, and a fixed seat in the corner 
 of the wall. The rest of the furniture consisted of a small 
 table, some pots, a frying-pan, a tin dish and plates, a dipper, 
 and some tin pannikins. Four or five rifles and " shot-guns," 
 
LETTER XXV.] A HAWAIIAN' SHEEP STATION. 233 
 
 and a piece of raw meat, were hanging against the wall. A 
 tin bowl was brought to me for washing, which served the 
 same purpose for every one. The oil was exhausted, so re- 
 course was had to the native expedient of a jar of beef fat with 
 a wick in it. 
 
 We were most hospitably received, but the native wife, as is 
 usually the case, was too shy to eat with us, or even to appear 
 at all. Our host is a superb young man, very frank and pre- 
 possessing looking, a thorough mountaineer, most expert with 
 the lasso and in hunting wild cattle. The " station " consists 
 of a wool shed, a low grass hut, a hut with one side gone, a 
 bell-tent, and the more substantial cabin in which we are lodged. 
 Several saddled horses were tethered outside, and some natives 
 were shearing sheep, but the fog shut out whatever else there 
 might be of an outer world. Every now and then a native came 
 in and sat on the floor to warm himself, but there were no mats 
 as in native houses. It was intolerably cold. I singed my 
 clothes by sitting in the chimney, but could not warm myself. 
 A fowl was stewed native fashion, and some rice was boiled, 
 and we had sheep's milk -and some ice cold water, the drip, I 
 think, from a neighbouring cave, as running and standing water 
 are unknown. 
 
 There are 9000 sheep here, but they require hardly any 
 attendance except at shearing time, and dogs are not used in 
 herding them. Indeed, labour is much dispensed with, as the 
 sheep are shorn unwashed, a great contrast to the elabo- 
 rate washings of the flocks of the Australian Riverina. They 
 come down at night of their own sagacity, in close converging 
 columns, sleep on the gravel about the station, and in the early 
 morning betake themselves to their feeding grounds on the 
 mountain. 
 
 Mauna Kea, and the forests which skirt his base, are the 
 resort of thousands of wild cattle, and there are many men 
 nearly as wild, who live half savage lives in the woods, gaining 
 their living by lassoing and shooting these animals for their 
 skins. Wild black swine also abound. 
 
 The mist as usual disappeared at night, leaving a sky won- 
 derful with stars, which burned blue and pale against the furnace 
 glare on the top of Mauna Loa, to which we are comparatively 
 near. I woke at three from the hopeless cold, and before five 
 went out with Mr. Green to explore the adjacent lava. The 
 atmosphere was perfectly pure, and suffiised with rose-colour, 
 not a cloud-fleece hung round the mountain tops, hoar-frost 
 
234 HAWAII. [letter XXV. 
 
 whitened the ground, the pure, white smoke of the volcano rose 
 into the reddening sky, and the air was elixir. It has been 
 said and written that there are no steam-cracks or similar traces 
 of volcanic action on Mauna Kea, but in several fissures I 
 noticed ferns growing belonging to an altitude 4000 feet lower, 
 and on putting my arm down, found a heat which compelled 
 me to withdraw it, and as the sun rose these cracks 
 steamed in all directions. There are caves full of ferns, lava 
 bubbles in reality, crust over crust, each from twelve to 
 eighteen inches thick, rolls of lava cooled in coils, and hideous 
 a-a streams on which it is impossible to walk two yards with- 
 out the risk of breaking one's limbs or cutting one's boots to 
 pieces. 
 
 I will not weary you with the details of our mountain ascent 
 Our host provided ourselves and the native servant with three 
 strong bullock-horses, and accompanied us himself. The first 
 climb is through deep volcanic sand slashed by deep clefts, 
 showing bands of red and black ash. We saw no birds, but 
 twice started a rout of wild black hogs, and once came upon a 
 wild bull of large size with some cows and a calf, all so tired 
 with tramping over the lava that they only managed to keep 
 just out of our way. They usually keep near the mountain top 
 in the daytime for fear of the hunters, and come down at 
 night to feed. About 11,000 were shot and lassoed last 
 
 year. Mr. S says that they don't need any water but 
 
 that of the dew-drenched grass, and that horses reared on 
 the mountains refuse to drink, and are scared by the sight 
 of pools or running streams. Unlike horses I saw at 
 Waikiki, which shut their eyes and plunged their heads into 
 water up to their ears, in search of a saltish weed which grows 
 in the lagoons. 
 
 The actual forest, which is principally koa, ceases at a height 
 of about 6000 feet, but a deplorable vegetation beginning 
 with mamane scrub, and ending with withered wormwood and 
 tufts of coarse grass, straggles up 3000 feet higher, and a 
 scaly orange lichen is found in rare patches at a height of 
 11,000 feet. 
 
 The side of Mauna JCea towards Waimea is precipitous and 
 inaccessible, but to our powerful mountain horses the ascent 
 from Kalaieha presented no difficulty. 
 
 We rode on hour after hour in intense cold, till we reached 
 a height where the last stain of lichen disappeared, and the 
 desolation was complete and oppressive. This area of tufa 
 
LETTER xxvj ASCENT OF MA UNA KEA. 235 
 
 cones, dark and grey basalt, clinkers, scorix, fine ash, and fer- 
 ruginous basalt, is something gigantic. We were three hours 
 in ascending through it, and the eye could at no time take in 
 its limit, for the mountain which from any point of view below 
 appears as a well defined dome with a ragged top, has at the 
 summit the aspect of a ridge, or rather a number of ridges, 
 with between 20 and 30 definite peaks, varying in height 
 from 900 to 1400 feet. Among these cones are large plains of 
 clinkers and fine gravel, but no lava-streams, and at a height of 
 12,000 feet the sides of some of the valleys are filled up with 
 snow, of a purity so immaculate and a brilliancy so intense as 
 the fierce light of the tropical sun beat upon it, that I feared 
 snow-blindness. We ascended one of the smaller cones, which 
 was about 900 feet high, and found it contained a crater of 
 nearly the same depth, with a very even slope, and lined en- 
 tirely with red ash, which at the bottom became so bright and 
 fiery-looking that it looked as if the fires, which have not burned 
 for ages, had only died out that morning. 
 
 After riding steadily for six hours,' our horses, snorting and 
 panting, and plunging up to their knees in fine volcanic ash, 
 and halting, trembling and exhausted, every few feet, carried 
 us up the great tufa cone which crowns the summit of this vast, 
 fire-flushed, fire-created mountain, and we dismounted in deep 
 snow on the crest of the highest peak in the Pacific, 13,953 feet 
 above the sea. This summit is a group of six red tufa cones, 
 with very little apparent difference in their altitude, and with 
 deep valleys filled with red ash between them. The terminal 
 cone on which we were has no cavity, but most of those form- 
 ing the group, as well as the thirty which I counted around 
 and below us, are truncated cones with craters within, and 
 with outer slopes, whose estimated angle is about 30°. On these 
 slopes the snow lay heavily. In coming up we had had a superb 
 view of Mauna Loa, but before we reached the top, the clouds 
 had congregated, and lay in glistening masses all round the 
 mountain about half-way up, shutting out the smiling earth, and 
 leaving us alone with the view of the sublime desolation of the 
 volcano. 
 
 We only remained an hour on the top, and came down by a 
 very circuitous route, which took us round numerous cones, 
 and over miles of clinkers varying in size from a ton to a few 
 ounces, and past a lake the edges of which w^ere frozen, and 
 which in itself is a curiosity, as no other part of the mountain 
 " holds water." Not far off is a cave, a lava-bubble, in which 
 
236 HA WAIT. [letter xxv. 
 
 the natives used to live when they came up here to quarry a 
 very hard adjacent phonoHte for their axes and other tools. 
 While the others poked about, I was glad to make it a refuge 
 from the piercing wind. Hundreds of unfinished axes lie round 
 the cave entrance, and there is quite a large mound of un- 
 finished chips. 
 
 This is a very interesting spot to Hawaiian antiquaries. They 
 argue, from the amount of the chippings, that this mass of 
 phonolite was quarried for ages by countless generations of 
 men, and that the mountain top must have been upheaved, and 
 the island inhabited, in a very remote past. The stones have 
 not been worked since Captain Cook's day ; yet there is not a 
 weather-stain upon them, and the air is so dry and rarified that 
 meat will keep fresh for three months. I found a mass of crystals 
 of the greenish volcanic glass, called olivine, imbedded in a 
 piece of phonolite which looked as blue and fresh as if only 
 quarried yesterday. 
 
 We travelled for miles through ashes and scorias, and then 
 descended into a dense afternoon fog ; but Mr. S, is a prac- 
 tised mountaineer, and never faltered for a moment, and our 
 horses made such good speed that late in the afternoon 
 we were able to warm ourselves by a gallop, which brought 
 us in here ravenous tor supper before dark, having ridden for 
 thirteen hours. I hope I have made it clear that the top of 
 this dead volcano, whether cones or ravines, is deep soft ashes 
 and sand. ■ 
 
 To-morrow morning I intend to ride the thirty miles to 
 Waimea with two native women, and the next day to go off on 
 my adventurous expedition to Hilo, for which I have bought 
 for $45 a big, strong, heavy horse, which I have named Kahele. 
 He has the poking head and unmistakable gait of a bullock- 
 horse, but is said to be " a good traveller." 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXVI. 
 
 Alone with Nature — A Light Equipment — Kahele — A Garrulous 
 Assemblage — A Paralysed Village — Hilo. 
 
 "My Camp," Hawaiian Slopes, May 21. 
 
 This is the height of enjoyment in travelhng. I have just 
 encamped under a lauhala tree, with my saddle inverted for a 
 pillow, my horse tied by a long lariat to a guava bush, my gear, 
 saddle-bags, and rations for two days lying about, and my 
 saddle blanket drying in the sun. Overhead the sun blazes, 
 and casts no shadow ; a few fleecy clouds hover near him, and 
 far below, the great expanse of the Pacific gleams in a deeper 
 blue than the sky. Far above, towers the rugged and snow- 
 patched, but no longer mysterious dome of Mauna Kea ; while 
 everywhere, ravines, woods, waterfalls, and stretches of lawn- 
 like grass delight the eye. All green that I have ever seen, of 
 EngUsh lawns in June, or Alpine valleys, seems poor and 
 colourless as compared with the dazzling green of this sixty-five 
 miles. It is a joyous green, a glory. Whenever I look up 
 from my writing, I ask, Was there ever such green ? Was there 
 ever such sunshine? Was there ever such an atmosphere? 
 Was there ever such an adventure ? And Nature — ^for I have 
 no other companion, and wish for none — answers, " No." The 
 novelty is that I am alone, my conveyance my own horse ; no 
 luggage to look after, for it is all in my saddle-bags ; no guide 
 to bother, hurry, or hinder me ; and with knowledge enough of 
 the country to stop when and where I please. A native guide, 
 besides being a considerable expense, is a great nuisance ; and 
 as the trail is easy to find, and the rivers are low, I resolved 
 for once to taste the delights of perfect independence ! This 
 is a blessed country, for a lady can travel everywhere in abso- 
 lute security. 
 
 My goal is the volcano of Kilauea, with various diverging 
 
238 HA WAIT. [letter XXVI. 
 
 expeditions, involving a ride of about 350 miles; but my health 
 has so wonderfully improved, that it is easier to me now to ride 
 forty miles in a day than ten some months ago. 
 
 You have no idea of the preparations required for such a 
 ride, and the importance which "littles" assume. Food for 
 two days had to be taken, and all superfluous weight to be dis- 
 carded, as every pound tells on a horse on a hard journey. My 
 saddle-bags contain, besides " Sunday clothes," dress for any 
 " gaieties " which Hilo may offer ; but I circumscribed my 
 stock of clothes as much as possible, having fallen into the 
 rough-and-ready practice of washing them at night, and putting 
 them on unironed in the morning. I carry besides, a canvas 
 bag on the horn of my saddle, containing two days' provender, 
 and a knife, horse-shoe nails, glycerine, thread, twine, leather 
 thongs, with other little et ceteras, the lack of. which might 
 prove troublesome, a thermometer and aneroid in a leather 
 case, and a plaid. I have discarded, owing to their weight, all 
 the well-meant luxuries which were bestowed upon me, such as 
 drinking cups, flasks, etnas, sandwich cases, knife cases, spoons, 
 pocket mirrors, &c. The inside of a watchcase makes a suffi- 
 cient mirror, and I make a cup from a kalo leaf. All cases are 
 a mistake, — at least I think so, as I contemplate my light 
 equipment with complacency. 
 
 Yesterday's dawn was the reddest I have seen on the moun- 
 tains, and the day was all the dawn promised. A three-mile 
 gallop down the dewy grass, and slackened speed through the 
 bush, brought me once again to the breezy slopes of Hamakua, 
 and the trail I travelled in February, with Deborah and Kaluna. 
 Though as green then as now, it was the rainy season, a carnival 
 of rain and mud. Somehow the summer does make a differ- 
 ence, even in a land without a winter. The temperature was 
 perfect. It was dreamily lovely. No song of birds, or busy 
 hum of insects, accompanied the rustle of the lauhala leaves 
 and the low rburmur of the surf But there is no hot sleep 
 of noon here— the delicious trades keep the air always 
 wakeful. 
 
 When the gentleman who guided me through the bush left 
 me on the side of a pali, I discovered that Kahe'le', though 
 strong, gentle, and sure-footed, possesses the odious fault known 
 as balking, and expressed his aversion to ascend the other side 
 in a most unmistakable manner. He swung round, put his 
 head down, and no amount of spurring could get him to do 
 anything but turn round and round, till the gentleman, who had 
 
LETTER XXVI. KAHELE. 239 
 
 left me, returned, beat him with a stick, and tlirew stones at 
 him, till he got him started again. 
 
 I have tried coaxing him, but without result, and have had 
 prolonged fights with him in nearly every gulch, and on the 
 worst pah of all he refused for some time to breast a step, 
 scrambled round and round in a most dangerous place, and 
 slipped his hind l6gs quite over the edge before I could get 
 him on. 
 
 His sociability too is ridiculously annoying. Whenever he 
 sees natives in the distance, he neighs, points his ears, holds up 
 his heavy head, quickens his pace, and as soon as we meet 
 them, swings round and joins them, and can only be extricated 
 after a pitched battle. On a narrow bridge I met Kaluna on a 
 good horse, improved in manners, appearance, and English, 
 and at first he must have thought that I was singularly pleased 
 to see him, by my turning round and joining him at once; but 
 presently, seeing the true state of the case, he belaboured 
 Kahele with a heavy stick. The animal is very gentle and 
 companionable, and I dislike to spur him ; besides, he seems 
 insensible to it; so the last time I tried Rarey's plan, and 
 bringing his head quite round, twisted the bridle round the 
 horn of the saddle, so that he had to turn round and round for 
 my pleasure, rather than to indulge his own temper, a process 
 which will, I hope, conquer him mercifully. 
 
 But in consequence of these battles, and a halt which I 
 made, as, now, for no other purpose than to enjoy my felicitous 
 circumstances, the sun was sinking in a mist of gold behind 
 Mauna Loa long before I reached the end of my day's journey. 
 It was extremely lovely. A heavy dew was falling, odours of 
 Eden rose from the earth, colours glowed in the sky, and the 
 dewiest and richest green was all round. There were several 
 gulches to cross after the sun had set, and a silence, which was 
 almost audible, reigned in their leafy solitudes. It was quite 
 dark when I reached the trail which dips over the great pali of 
 Laupahoehoe, 700 feet in height ; but I found myself riding 
 carelessly down what I hardly dared to go up, carefully and in 
 company, four months before. But whatever improvement 
 time has made in my health and nerves, it has made none in 
 this wretched, zoophyte village. 
 
 I>eading Kahele, I groped about till I found the house of the 
 widow Honolulu, with whom I had lodged before, and pre- 
 sently all the natives assembled to stare at me. After rubbing 
 my horse and feeding him on a large bundle of ti leaves that I 
 
240 HA WAIL [letter xxvi. 
 
 had secured on the road, I took my own meal as a spectacle. 
 Two old crones seized on my ankles, murmuring lomi, lomi, 
 and subjected them to the native process of shampooing. 
 They had unrestrained curiosity as to the beginning and end of 
 my journey. I said " Waimea, Hamakua" when they all 
 chorused, '^Maikai;" for a ride of forty miles was not bad 
 for a wahine hack. I said, " Wai lio." (water for the horse), 
 when they signified that there was only some brackish stuff 
 unfit for drinking. 
 
 In spite of the garrulous assemblage, I was asleep before 
 eight, and never woke till I found myself in a blaze of sunshine 
 this morning, and in perfect solitude. I got myself some 
 breakfast, and then looked about the village for some inhabit- 
 ants, but found none, except an unhappy Portuguese with one 
 leg, and an old man who looked like a leper, to whom I said 
 " Ko" (cane) "Ho" (horse), exhibiting a rial at the same 
 time, on which he cut me a large bundle, and I sat on a stone 
 and watched Kaheld as he munched it for an hour and a 
 half. 
 
 It was very hot and serene down there between those j)a!is 
 700 and 800 feet high. The huts of the village were all shut, 
 and not a creature stirred. The palms above my head looked 
 as if they had always been old, and there was no movement 
 among their golden plumes. The sea itself rolled shorewards 
 more silently and lazily than usual. An old dog slept in the 
 sunshine, and whenever I moved, by a great effort, opened one 
 eye. The man who cut the cane fell asleep on the grass. 
 Kahele ate as slowly as if he had resolved to try my patience, 
 and be revenged on me for my conquest of him yesterday, and 
 his heavy munching was the only vital sound. I got up and 
 walked about to assure myself that I was awake, saddled and 
 bridled the horse, and mounted the great southward ^ali, 
 thankful to reach the breeze and the upper air in full possession 
 of my faculties, after the torpor and paralysis of the valley 
 below. 
 
 Never were waters so bright or stretches of upland lawns so 
 joyous as to-day, or the forest entanglements so entrancing. 
 The beautiful Eugenia malaccensis is now in full blossom, and 
 its stems and branches are blazing in all the gulches, with 
 bunches of rose-crimson stamens borne on short spikelets. 
 
LETTER XXVI.] THE CLIMATE OF HILO. 241 
 
 HiLo, Hawaii, May 2/^tL 
 
 Once more I am in dear, beautiful Hilo. Death entered my 
 Hawaiian " home " lately, and took " Baby Bell " away, and I 
 miss her sweet angel-presence at every turn; but otherwise 
 there are no changes, and I am very happy to be under the 
 roof of these dear friends again, but indeed each tree, flower, 
 and fern in Hilo is a friend. I would not even wish the 
 straggling Pride of India, and over-abundant lantana, away 
 from this fairest of the island Edens. I wish I could transport 
 you here this moment from our sour easterly skies to this end- 
 less summer and endless sunshine, and shimmer of a peaceful 
 sea, and an atmosphere whose influences are all cheering. 
 Though from r3 to 16 feet of rain fall here in the year the air 
 is not damp. Wet clothes hung up in the verandah even 
 during rain, dry rapidly, and a substance so sensitive to damp 
 as botanical paper does not mildew. 
 
 I met Deborah on horseback near Onomea, and she told me 
 that the Austins were expecting me, and so I spent three days 
 very pleasantly with them on my way here. 
 
 I. L, B. 
 
 The old Kilauea has just come in, and has brought the 
 English mail, and a United States mail, an event which sets 
 Hilo agog. Then for a few hours its still, drowsy life becomes 
 galvanized, and people really persuade themselves that they 
 have something to do, and all the foreigners write letters 
 hastily, or add postscripts to those already written, and lose the 
 mail, and rush down frantically to the beach to send their late 
 letters by favour of the obUging purser. The mail to-day was. 
 an event to me, as it has brought your long-looked-for letters. 
 
LETTER XXVII. 
 
 Puna, the Home of the Coco-palm — A Magical Spring — A Leper Exodus 
 — " Bill Ragsdale " — Self-sacrifice of Father Damiens. 
 
 HiLO, June I. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Severance and I have just returned from a 
 three days' expedition to Puna in the south of Hawaii, and I 
 preferred their agreeable company even to soHtude ! My 
 sociable Kahel^ was also pleased, and consequently behaved 
 very well. We were compelled to ride for twenty-three miles 
 in single file, owing to the extreme narrowness of the lava 
 track, which has been literally hammered down in some places 
 to make it passable even for shod horses. We were a party of 
 four, and a very fat pohceman on a very fat horse brought up 
 the rear. 
 
 At some distance from Hilo there is a glqrious burst of 
 tropical forest, and then the track passes into green grass 
 dotted over with clumps of the pandanus and the beautiful 
 eugenia. In that hot, dry district the fruit was already ripe, 
 and we quenched our thirst with it The " native apple," as 
 it is called, is of such a brilliant crimson colour as to be hardly 
 less beautiful than the flowers. The rind is very thin, and the 
 inside is white, juicy, and very slightly acidulated. We were 
 always near the sea, and the surf kept bursting up behind the 
 trees in great snowy drifts, and every opening gave us a glimpse 
 of deep blue water. The coast the whole way is composed of 
 great blocks of very hard, black lava, more or less elevated, 
 upon which the surges break in perpetual thunder. 
 
 Suddenly the verdure ceased, and we emerged upon a hideous 
 scene, one of the many lava flows from Kilauea, an irregular 
 branching stream, about a mile broad. It is suggestive of 
 fearful work on the part of nature, for here the volcano has not 
 created but destroyed. The black, tumbled sea mocked the 
 
LETTER XXVII.] PUNA. 243 
 
 bright sunshine, all tossed, jagged, spiked, twirled, thrown heap 
 on heap, broken, rifted, upheaved in great masses, burrowing in 
 ravines of its own making, full of broken bubble caves, and torn 
 by a-a streams. Close to the track, crystals of olivine lie in 
 great profusion, and in a few of the crevices there are young 
 plants of a fern which everywhere has the audacity to act as 
 the herald of vegetation. 
 
 Beyond this desert the country is different in its features 
 from the rest of the island, a green, smiling land of Beulah, 
 varied by lines of craters covered within and without with 
 vegetation. For thirty miles the track passes under the deep 
 shade of coco palms, of which Puna is the true home ; and from 
 under their feathery shadow, and from amidst the dark leafage 
 of the breadfruit, gleamed the rose-crimson apples of the 
 eugenia, and the golden balls of the guava. I have not before 
 seen this exquisite palm to advantage, for those which fringe 
 the coast have, as compared with these, a look of tattered, 
 sombre, harassed antiquity. Here they stood in thousands, 
 young as well as old, their fronds gigantic, their stems curving 
 every way, and the golden light, which is pecuUar to them, 
 toned into a golden green. They were loaded with fruit in all 
 stages, indeed it is produced in such abundance that thousands 
 of nuts lie unheeded on the ground. Animals, including dogs 
 and cats, revel in the meat, and in the scarcity of good water 
 the milk is a useful substitute. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we reached our destination, a comfort- 
 able frame house, on one of those fine natural lawns in which 
 Hawaii abounds. A shower at seven each morning keeps Puna 
 always green. Our kind host, a German, married to a native 
 woman, served our meals in a house made of grass and bamboo ; 
 but the wife and children, as is usual in these cases, never 
 appeared at table, and contented themselves with contemplating 
 us at a great distance. 
 
 The next afternoon we rode to one of the natural curiosities 
 of Puna, which gave me intense pleasure. It lies at the base 
 of a cone crowned with a heiau and a clump of coco palms. 
 Passing among bread-fruit and guavas into a palm grove of 
 exquisite beauty, we came suddenly upon a lofty, wooded cliff 
 of hard basalt, with ferns growing out of every crevice in its 
 ragged but perpendicular sides. At its feet is a cleft about 
 60 feet long, i6 wide, and i8 deep, full of water at a tempera- 
 ture of 90°. This has an absolute transparency of a singular 
 kind, and perpetrates wonderful optical illusions. Every thing 
 
244 HA WAIL [letter xxvii. 
 
 put into it is transformed. The rocks, broken timber, and old 
 cocoa-nuts which lie below it, are a frosted blue ; the dusky 
 skins of natives are changed to alabaster; and as my com- 
 panion, in a light print holoku, swam to and fro, her feet and 
 hands became like polished marble tinged with blue, and her 
 dress floated through the water as if woven of blue light. 
 Everything about this spring is far more striking and beautiful 
 than the colour in the Blue Grotto. It is heaven in the 
 water, a jewelled floor of marvels, "a sea of glass," " like unto 
 sapphire," a type, perhaps, of that on which the blessed stand 
 before the throne of God. Above, the feathery palms rose into 
 the crystalHne blue, and made an amber light below, and all 
 fair and lovely things were mirrored in the wonderful waters. 
 The specific gravity must be much greater that that of ordinary 
 water, for it did not seem possible to sink, or even be thoroughly 
 immersed in it. The mercury in the air was yg"*, but on coming 
 out of the water we felt quite chilly. 
 
 I like Puna. It is like nothing else, but something about it 
 made us feel as if we were dwelling in a castle of indolence. I 
 developed a capacity for doing nothing, which horrified me, and 
 except when we energised ourselves to go to the hot spring, my 
 companions and I were content to dream in the verandah, and 
 watch the lengthening shadows, and drink cocoa-nut milk, till 
 the abrupt exit of the sun startled us, and we saw the young 
 moon carrying the old one tenderly, and a fitful glare 60 miles 
 away, where the solemn fires of Mauna Loa are burning at a 
 height of nearly 14,000 feet. 
 
 HiLO. 
 
 There are many " littles," but few " mickles '' here. It is 
 among the last that two foreign gentlemen have successfully 
 accomplished the ascent of Mauna Loa, and the mystery of its 
 fires is solved. I write " successfully," as they went up and 
 down in safety, but they were involved in a series of pilikias .- 
 girths, stirrup-leathers, and cruppers slipping and breaking, and 
 their sufferings on the summit from cold and mountain sickness 
 appear to have been nearly incapacitating. Although much 
 excited, they are collected enough to pronounce it " the most 
 sublime sight ever seen." They, as well as several natives who 
 have passed by Kilauea, report it as in full activity, which 
 bears against the assertion that the flank crater becomes quiet 
 when the summit crater is active. 
 
LETTER xxvii.] " BILL RAGSDALS." 245 
 
 Another and sadder " mickle " has been the departure of ten 
 lepers for Molokai. The Kilauea, with the Marshal, and Mr. 
 Wilder, who embodies the Board of Health, has just left the 
 bay, taking away forty lepers on this cruise ; and the relations 
 of those who have been taken from Hilo are still howling on the 
 beach. When one hears the wailing, and sees the temporary 
 agony of the separated relatives, one longs for " the days of 
 the Son of Man," and that his healing touch, as of old in 
 Galilee, might cleanse these unfortunates. Nine of the lepers 
 were sent on board from the temporary pest-house, but their 
 case, though deeply commiserated, has been overshadowed by 
 that of the talented half-white, " Bill Ragsdale," whom I men- 
 tioned in one of my earlier letters, and who is certainly the 
 most " notorious " man in Hilo. He has a remarkable gift of 
 eloquence, both in English and Hawaiian : a combination of 
 pathos, invective, and sarcasm; and his manner, though the- 
 atrical, is considered perfect by his native admirers. His moral 
 character, however, has been very low, which makes the out- 
 burst of feeling at his fate the more remarkable. 
 
 Yesterday, he wrote a letter to Sheriff Severance, giving 
 himself up as a leper to be dealt with by the law, expressing 
 himself as ready to be expatriated to-day, but requesting that 
 he might not be put into the leper-house, and that he might go 
 on board the steamer alone. The fact of his giving himself up 
 excited much sympathy, as, in his case, the signs of the malady 
 are hardly apparent, and he might have escaped suspicion for 
 some time. 
 
 He was riding .about all this morning, taking leave of people, 
 and of the pleasant Hilo lanes, which he will never see again, 
 and just as the steamer was weighing anchor, walked down to 
 the shore as carefully dressed as usual, decorated with his of 
 ohia and gardenia, and escorted by nearly the whole native 
 population. On my first landing here, the glee-club, singing 
 and flower-clad, went out to meet him ; — now tears and sobs 
 accompanied him, and his countrymen and women clung to 
 him, kissing him to the last moment, whilst all the foreigners 
 shook hands as they offered him their good wishes. He made 
 a short speech in native, urging quiet submission to the stringent 
 measures which government is taking in order to stamp out 
 leprosy, and then said a few words in English. His last words, 
 as he stepped into the boat, were to all : " Aloha, may God 
 bless you, my brothers," and then the whale boat took him the 
 first stage towards his living grave. He took a horse, a Bible, 
 
246 HA WAIL [letter xxvii. 
 
 and some legal books with him ; and, doubtless, in considera- 
 tion of the prominent positions he has filled, specially that of 
 interpreter to the Legislature, unusual indulgence will be 
 granted to him. 
 
 At the weekly prayer meeting held this evening, the medical 
 officer gave a very pathetic account of his interview with him 
 this morning, in which he had feelingly requested the prayers of 
 the church. It was with unusual fervour afterwards that prayer 
 was offered, not for him only, but for "all those who, living, 
 have this day been consigned to the oblivion of the grave, and 
 for the five hundred of our fellow-subjects now suffering on 
 Molokai." A noble instance of devotion has just been given 
 by Father Damiens, a Belgian priest, who has gone to spend 
 his life amidst the hideous scenes, and the sickness and death 
 of the ghastly valley of Kalawao.* 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
 * A chapter on Leprosy and the Leper Settlement is given at the close 
 of these Letters. 
 
LETTEE XXVIII. 
 
 The " Unexpected " happens — Hilo Kindness — A Venerable Pair of 
 Stockings — Preparations for the Ascent of Mauna Lea. 
 
 Hilo, yune 2nd. 
 
 Often since I finished my' last letter has Hazael's reply 
 to Elisha occurred to me, "Is thy servant a dog, that he 
 should do this thing?" For in answer to people who have 
 said, " I hope nothing will induce you to attempt the ascent 
 of Mauna Loa," I always said, " Oh dear, no ! I should 
 never dream of it ! " or, " Nothing would persuade me to think 
 of it!" 
 
 This morning early, Mr. Green came in, on his way to 
 Kilauea, to which I was to accompany him, and on my casually 
 remarking that I envied him his further journey, he at once 
 asked me to join him, and I joyfully accepted the invitation ! 
 For, indeed, my heart has been secretly set on going, and I 
 have had to repeat to myself fifty times a day, " no, I must not 
 think of it, for it is impossible." 
 
 Mr. Green is going up well equipped with a tent, horses, a 
 baggage mule, and a servant, and is confident of being able to 
 get a guide and additional mules fifty miles from Hilo. I had 
 to go to the Union School examination where the Hilo world 
 was gathered, but I could think of nothing but the future ; and 
 I can hardly write sense, the prospect of the next week is so 
 exciting, and the time for making preparations is so short. It 
 is an adventurous trip anyhow, and the sufferings which our 
 predecessors have undergone, from Commodore Wilkes down- 
 wards, make us anxious not to omit any precaution. The 
 distance which has to be travelled through an uninhabited 
 region, the height and total isolation of the summit, the uncer- 
 tainty as to the state of the crater, and the duration of its 
 
248 HAWAII. [letter xxvm. 
 
 activity, with the possibiHty of total failure owing to fog or 
 strong wind, combine to make our ascent an experimental 
 trip. 
 
 The news of the project soon spread through the village, 
 and as the ascent has only once been performed by a woman, 
 the kindly people are profuse in offers of assistance, and in in- 
 terest in the journey, and every one is congratulating me on 
 my good fortune in having Mr. Green for my travelling com- 
 panion. I have hunted all the beach stores through for such 
 essentials as will pack into small compass, and every one 
 said, "So you are going 'to the mountain;' I hope you'll 
 have a good time ; " or, " I hope you'll have the luck to 
 get up." 
 
 Among the friends of my hosts all sorts of useful articles 
 were produced, a camp kettle, a camping blanket, a huge 
 Mexican poncho, a cardigan, capacious saddle-bags, &c. Nor 
 was Kahele' forgotten, for the last contribution was a bag of 
 oats ! The greatest difficulty was about warm clothing, for in 
 this perfect climate, woollen underclothing is not necessary 
 as in many tropical countries, but it is absolutely essential 
 on yonder mountain, and till late in the afternoon the best in- 
 tentions and the most energetic rummaging in old trunks failed 
 
 to produce it. At last Mrs. , wife of an old Scotch 
 
 settler, bestowed upon me the invaluable loan of a stout 
 flannel shirt, and a pair of venerable worsted stockings, much 
 •darned, knitted in Fifeshire a quarter of a century ago. When 
 she brought them, the excellent lady exclaimed, " Oh, 
 what some people will do ! " with an obvious personal 
 reference. 
 
 She tells us that her husband, who owns the ranch on the 
 mountain at which we are to stay the last night, has been 
 obliged to forbid any of his natives going up as guides, and 
 that she fears we shall not get a guide, as the native who went 
 up with Mr. Whyte suffered so dreadfully from mountain sick- 
 ness, that they were obliged to help him down, and he declares 
 that he will not go up again. Mr. Whyte tells us that he 
 suffered himself from vomiting and vertigo for fourteen hours, 
 and severely from thirst also, as the water froze in the can- 
 teens; but I am almost well now, and as my capacity for 
 " roughing it " has been severely tested, I hope to " get on " 
 much better. 
 
 A party made the ascent nine months ago, and the mem- 
 bers of it also suffered severely, but I see no reason why 
 
LETTER XXVIII.] PREPARATIONS COMPLETED. 249 
 
 cautious people, who look well to their gear and clothing, 
 and are prudent with regard to taking exercise at the top, 
 should suffer anything worse than the inconveniences which 
 are inseparable from nocturnal cold at a high elevation. 
 
 My preparations are completed to-night, the last good wishes 
 have been spoken, and we intend to leave early to-morrow 
 morning. 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXIX.* 
 
 A Second Visit to Kilauea — Remarkable Changes in Halemaumau — 
 Terrible Aspects of the Pit— Theory and Aspects of the "Blowing 
 Cones " — A Shock of Earthquake — A Mountain Ranch. 
 
 Crater House, Kilauea, Juneefh. 
 
 Once more I write with the splendours of the quenchless 
 fires in sight, and the usual world seems twilight and common- 
 place by the fierce glare of Halemaumau, and the fitful glare of 
 the other and loftier flame, which is burning ten thousand feet 
 higher in lonely Mokua-weo-weo. 
 
 Mr. Green and I left Hilo soon after dayhght this morning, 
 and made about " the worst time " ever made on the route. 
 We jogged on slowly and silently for thirty miles in Indian file, 
 through bursts of tropical beauty, over an ocean of fern-clad 
 pahoehoe, the air hot and stagnant, the horses lazy and indif- 
 ferent, till I was awoke from the kind of cautious doze into 
 which one falls on a sure-footed horse, by a decided cool- 
 ness in the atmosphere, and Kahele broke into a lumbering 
 gallop, which he kept up till we reached this house, where, in 
 spite of the exercise, we are glad to get close to a large wood 
 fire. Although we are shivering, the mercury is at 57°, but in 
 this warm and equable climate, one's sensations are not signi- 
 ficant of the height of the thermometer. 
 
 It is very fascinating to be here on the crater's edge, and to 
 look across its three miles of blackness to the clouds of red 
 vapour which Halemaumau is sending up, and altogether ex- 
 citing to watch the lofty curve of Mauna Loa upheave itself 
 against the moon, while far and faint, we see, or think we see, 
 that solemn light, which ever since my landing at Kawaihae 
 has been so mysteriously attractive. It is three days off yet. 
 
 * I venture to present this journal letter just as it was written, trusting 
 that the interest which attaches to volcanic regions, will carry the reader 
 through the minuteness and multiplicity of the details. 
 
LETTER XXIX.] DESCENT INTO KILAUEA. 251 
 
 Perhaps its spasmodic fires will die out, and we shall find only 
 blackness. Perhaps anything, except our seeing it as it ought 
 to be seen ! The practical difficulty about a guide increases, 
 and Mr. Oilman cannot help us to solve it. And if it be so 
 cold at 4000 feet, what will it be at 14,000? 
 
 KiLAUEA, June t,th. 
 
 I have no room in my thoughts for anything but volcanoes, 
 and it wiU be so for some days to come. We have been all 
 day in the crater, in fact I left Mr. Green and his native there, 
 and came up with the guide, sore, stiff, bruised, cut, singed, 
 grimy, with my thick gloves shrivelled off by the touch of sul- 
 phurous acid, and my boots nearly burned off. But what are 
 cuts, bruises, fatigue, and singed eyelashes, in comparison with 
 the awful subhmities I have witnessed to-day ? The activity of 
 Kilauea on Jan. 31 was as child's play to its activity to-day : as 
 a display of fireworks compared to the conflagration of a me- 
 tropolis. Then, the sense of awe gave way speedily to that of 
 admiration of the dancing fire fountains of a fiery lake ; now, it 
 was all terror, horror, and sublimity, blackness, suffocating 
 gases, scorching heat, crashings, surgings, detonations ; half 
 seen fires, hideous, tortured, wallowing waves. I feel as if the 
 terrors of Kilauea would haunt me all my life, and be the 
 Nemesis of weak and tired hours. 
 
 We left early, and descended the terminal wall, still, as before, 
 green with ferns, ohias, and sandalwood, and bright with 
 clusters of turquoise berries, and the red fruit and waxy blossom 
 of the ohelo. The lowest depression of the crater, which I 
 described before as a level, fissured sea of iridescent lava, has 
 been apparently partially flooded by a recent overflow from 
 Halemaumau, and the same agency has filled up the _ larger 
 rifts with great shining rolls of black lava, obnoxiously like 
 boa-constrictors in a state of repletion. In crossing this central 
 area for the second time, with a mind less distracted by the 
 novelty of the surroundings, I observed considerable deposits 
 of remarkably impure sulphur, as well as sulphates of lime and 
 alum in the larger fissures. The presence of moisture was 
 always apparent in connection with these formations. The 
 solidified surges and convolutions in which the lava lies, the 
 latter sometimes so beautifully formed as to look hke coils of 
 wire rope, are truly wonderful. Within the cracks there are 
 
2S2 
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 [letter XXIX 
 
 extraordinary coloured growths, orange, grey, buff, like mineral 
 lichens, but very hard and brittle. 
 
 The recent lava flow by which Halemaumau has consider- 
 ably heightened its walls, has raised the hill by which you 
 
 Boiling lava 
 
 CojiR iii prmation _ 
 
 Halemaumau, Jan. 31. 
 
 ascend to the brink of the pit to a height of fully five hundred 
 feet from the basin, and this elevation is at present much more 
 fiery and precarious than the former one. It is dead, but not 
 cold, lets one through into cracks hot with corrosive acid, 
 rings hollow everywhere, and its steep acclivities lie in waves, 
 streams, coils, twists, and tortuosities of all kinds, the surface 
 glazed and smoothish, and with a metallic lustre. 
 
 Somehow, I expected to find Kilauea as I had left it in 
 January, though the volumes of dense white smoke which are 
 now rolling up from it might have indicated a change ; but 
 after the toilsome, breathless climbing of the awful lava hill, 
 with the crust becoming more brittle, and the footing hotter at 
 each step, instead of laughing fire fountains tossing themselves 
 in gory splendour above the rim, there was a hot, sulphurous, 
 mephitic chaos, covering, who knows what, of horror? 
 
LETTER XXIX ] 
 
 THE TWO LAKES OF FIRE. 
 
 253 
 
 So far as we could judge, the level of the lake had sunk to 
 about 80 feet below the margin, and the lately formed precipice 
 was overhanging it considerably. About seven feet back from 
 the edge of the ledge, there was a fissure about eighteen inches 
 
 Baihk of lava So feet hicfh. 
 
 r^ — ^ 
 
 /" Korfh lake- 
 
 V 
 
 Outline of Halemaumau, June 4.I 
 
 wide, emitting heavy fumes of sulphurous acid gas. Our visit 
 seemed in vain, for on the risky verge of this crack we could 
 only get momentary glimpses of wallowing fire, glaring lurid 
 through dense masses of furious smoke which were rolling 
 themselves round in the abyss as if driven by a hurricane. 
 
 After failing to get a better standpoint, we suffered so much 
 from the gases, that we coasted the north, till we reached the 
 south lake, one with the other on my former visit, but now 
 separated by a solid lava barrier about three hundred feet 
 broad, and eighty high. Here there was comparatively little 
 smoke, and the whole mass of contained lava was ebullient 
 and incandescent, its level marked the whole way round by a 
 shelf or rim of molten lava, which adhered to the side, as ice 
 often adheres to the margin of rapids, when the rest of the 
 water is liberated and in motion. There was very little centri- 
 petal action apparent. Though the mass was violently agitated 
 it always took a southerly direction, and dashed itself with 
 fearful violence against some lofty, undermined cliffs which 
 formed its southern limit. The whole region vibrated with the 
 shock of the fiery surges. To stand there was " to snatch a 
 
254 ffA WAIT. [letter xxix. 
 
 fearful joy," out of a pain and terror which were unendurable. 
 For two or three minutes we kept going to the edge, seeing 
 the spectacle as with a flash, through half closed eyes, and 
 going back again ; but a few trials, in which throats, nostrils, 
 and eyes were irritated to torture by the acid gases, convinced 
 us that it was unsafe to attempt to remain by the lake, as the 
 pain and gasping for breath which followed each inhalation, 
 threatened serious consequences. 
 
 With regard to the north lake we were more fortunate, and 
 more persevering, and I regard the three hours we spent by it 
 as containing some of the most solemn, as well as most fasci- 
 nating, experiences of my life. The aspect of the volcano had 
 altogether changed within four months. At present there are 
 two lakes surrounded by precipices about eighty feet high. 
 Owing to the smoke and confusion it is most difficult to esti- 
 mate their size even approximately, but I think that the dia- 
 meter of the two cannot be less than a fifth of a mile. 
 
 Within the pit or lake by which we spent the morning, there 
 were no fiery mountains, or regular plashings of fiery waves 
 playing in indescribable beauty in a faint, blue atmosphere, 
 but lurid, gory, molten, raging, sulphurous, tormented masses 
 of matter, half seen through masses as restless, of lurid smoke. 
 Here, the violent action appeared centripetal, but with a south- 
 ward tendency. Apparently, huge, bulging masses of a lurid- 
 coloured lava were wallowing the whole time one over another 
 in a central whirlpool, which occasionally flung up a wave of 
 fire thirty or forty feet. The greatest intensity of action was 
 always preceded by a dull, throbbing roar, as if the imprisoned 
 gases were seeking the vent which was afforded them by the 
 upward bulging of the wave and its bursting into spray. The 
 colour of the lava which appeared to be thrown upwards from 
 great depths, was more fiery and less gory than that nearer the 
 surface. Now and then, through rifts in the smoke, we saw a 
 convergence of the whole molten mass into the centre, which 
 rose wallowing and convulsed to a considerable height. The 
 awful sublimity of what we did see, was enhanced by the know- 
 ledge that it was only a thousandth part of what we did not see, 
 mere momentary glimpses of a terror and fearfulness which 
 otherwise could not have been borne. 
 
 A ledge, only three or four feet wide, hung over the lake, 
 and between that and the comparative terra firma of the old 
 lava, there was a fissure of unknown depth, emitting hot blasts 
 of pernicious gases. The guide would not venture on the out- 
 
LETTER XXIX.] SIGHT-SEEING UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 255 
 
 side ledge, but Mr. Green, in his scientific zeal, crossed the 
 crack, teUing me not to follow him, but presently, in his ab- 
 sorption with what he saw, called to me to come, and I jumped 
 across, and this remained our perilous standpoint.* 
 
 Burned, singed, stifled, blinded, only able to stand on one 
 foot at a time, jumping back across the fissure every two or 
 three minutes to escape an unendurable whiff of heat and sul- 
 phurous stench, or when splitting sounds below threatened the 
 disruption of the ledge : lured as often back by the fascination 
 of the horrors below ; so we spent three hours. 
 
 There was every circumstance of awfulness to make the im- 
 pression of the sight indelible. Sometimes, dense volumes of 
 smoke hid everything, and yet, upwards, from out " their sul- 
 phurous canopy " fearful sounds arose, crashings, thunderings, 
 detonations, and we never knew then whether the spray of 
 some uplifted wave might not dash up to where we stood. At 
 other times the smoke partially lifting, but still swirling in 
 strong eddies, revealed a central whirlpool of fire, wallowing at 
 unknown depths, to which the lava, from all parts of the lake, 
 slid centrewards and downwards as into a vortex, where it 
 mingled its waves with indescribable noise and fury, and then, 
 breaking upwards, dashed itself to a great height in fierce, gory 
 gouts and clots, while hell itself seemed opening at our feet 
 At times, again, bits of the lake skinned over with a skin of a 
 wonderful silvery, satiny sheen, to be immediately devoured ; 
 and as the lurid billows broke, they were mingled with bright 
 patches as if of misplaced moonlight. Always changing, always 
 suggesting force which nothing could repel, agony indescribable, 
 mystery inscrutable, terror unutterable, a thing of eternal dread, 
 revealed only in glimpses ! 
 
 It is natural to think that St. John the Evangelist, in some 
 Patmos vision, was transported to the brink of this " bottomless 
 pit," and found in its blackness and turbulence of agony the 
 fittest emblems of those tortures of remorse and memory, 
 which we may well believe are the quenchless flames of the 
 region of self-chosen exile from goodness and from God. As 
 natural, too, that all Scripture phrases which typify the place of 
 woe should recur to one with the force of a new interpretation, 
 " Who can dwell with the everlasting burnings ? " " The smoke 
 
 * Since then, the Austins of Onomea were standing on a similar ledge, 
 when a sound as of a surge striking below, made them jump back hastily, 
 and m another moment the projection split ofF and was engulfed in the 
 fiery lake. 
 
255 HA WAIL [letter xxix. 
 
 of their torment goeth up for ever and ever," " The place of 
 hell," "The bottomless pit," "The vengeance of eternal fire," 
 "A lake of fire burning with brimstone." No sight can be so 
 fearful as this glimpse into the interior of the earth, where 
 fires are for ever wallowing with purposeless force and aimless 
 agony. 
 
 Beyond the lake there is a horrible region in which dense 
 volumes of smoke proceed from the upper ground, with loud 
 bellowings and detonations, and we took our perilous way in 
 that direction, over very hot lava which gave way constantly. 
 It is near this that the steady fires are situated which are visible 
 from this house at night. We came first upon a solitary 
 " blowing cone," beyond which there was a group of three or 
 four, but it is not from these that the smoke proceeds, but from 
 the extensive area beyond them, covered with smoke and steam 
 cracks, and smoking banks, which are probably formed of sul- 
 phur deposits. I visited only the solitary cone, for the footing 
 was so precarious, the sight so fearful, and the ebullitions of 
 gases so dangerous, that I did not dare to go near the others, 
 and do not wish ever to look upon their like again. 
 
 The one I saw was of beehive shape, about twelve feet high, 
 hollow inside, and its walls were about two feet thick. A part 
 of its imperfect top was blown off, and a piece of its side blown 
 out, and the side rent gave one a frightful view of its interior, 
 with the risk of having lava spat at one at intervals. The name 
 " Blowing Cone " is an apt one, if the theory of their construc- 
 tion be correct. It is supposed that when the surface of the 
 lava cools rapidly owing to enfeebled action below, the gases 
 force their way upwards through small vents, which then serve 
 as " blow holes " for the imprisoned fluid beneath. This, 
 rapidly cooling as it is ejected, forms a ring on the surface of 
 the crust, which, growing upwards by accretion, forms a 
 chimney, eventually nearly or quite closed at the top, so as to 
 form a cone. In this case the cone is about eighty feet above 
 the present level of the lake, and fully one hundred yards dis- 
 tant from its present verge. 
 
 The whole of the inside was red and molten, full of knobs, 
 and great fiery stalactites. Jets of lava at a white heat were 
 thrown up constantly, and frequently the rent in the side spat out 
 lava in clots, which cooled rapidly ,;and looked like drops of bottle- 
 green glass. The glimpses I got of the interior were necessarily 
 brief and intermittent. The blast or roar which came up from 
 below was more than deafening ; it was stunning : and accom- 
 
LETTER XXIX.] HORRORS OF HALEMAUMAU. 257 
 
 panied with heavy subterranean rumblings and detonations. 
 The chimney, so far as I could see, opened out gradually down- 
 wards to a great width, and appeared to be about forty feet 
 deep ; and at its base there was an abyss of lashing, tumbling, 
 restless fire, emitting an ominous, surging sound, and breaking 
 upwards with a fury which threatened to blow the cone and the 
 crust on which it stands, into the air. 
 
 The heat was intense, and the stinging sulphurous gases, 
 which were given forth in large quantities, most poisonous. 
 The group of cones west of this one, was visited by Mr. Green ; 
 but he found it impossible to make any further explorations. 
 He has seen nearly all the recent volcanic phenomena, but 
 says that these cones present the most " infernal " appearance 
 he has ever witnessed. We returned for a last look at Hale- 
 maumau, but the smoke was so dense, and the sulphur fumes 
 so stifling, that, as in a fearful dream, we only heard the 
 thunder of its hidden surges. I write thunder, and one speaks 
 of the lashing of waves ; but these are words pertaining to the 
 familiar earth, and have no place in connection with Kilauea. 
 The breaking lava has a voice all its own, full of compressed 
 fury. Its sound, motion, and aspect are all infernal. Hellish, 
 is the only fitting term. 
 
 We are dwelling on a cooled crust all over Southern Hawaii, 
 the whole region is recent lava, and between this and the sea 
 there are several distinct lines of craters thirty miles long, all 
 of which at some time or other have vomited forth the innu- 
 merable lava streams which streak the whole country in the 
 districts of Kau, Puna, and Hilo. In fact, Hawaii is a great 
 slag. There is something very solemn in the position of this 
 crater-house : with smoke and steam coming out of eveiy pore 
 of the ground, and in front the huge crater, which to-night 
 lights all the sky. My second visit has produced a far deeper 
 impression even than the first, and one of awe and terror 
 solely. 
 
 Kilauea is altogether different from the European volcanoes 
 which send lava and stones into the air in fierce, sudden 
 spasms, and then subside into harmlessness. Ever changing, 
 never resting, the force which stirs it never weakening, raging 
 for ever with tossing and strength like the ocean : its labours 
 unfinished, and possibly never to be finished, its very unex- 
 pectedness adds to its sublimity and terror, for until you reach 
 the terminal wall of the crater, it looks by daylight but a 
 smoking pit in the midst of a dreary stretch of waste land. 
 
258 HAWAII. [letter XXIX. 
 
 Last night I thought the Southern Cross out of place ; to- 
 night it seems essential, as Calvary over against Sinai. For 
 Halemaumau involuntarily typifies the necessity which shall 
 consume all evil : and the constellation, pale against its lurid 
 light, the great love and yearning of the Father, " who spared 
 not His own Son, but delivered Him up for us all," that, " as in 
 Adam all die, even so in Christ shall all be made alive." 
 
 AiNEPo, Hawaii, June $th. 
 
 We had a great fright last evening. We had been engaging 
 mules, and talking over our plans with our half-Indian host, 
 when he opened the door and exclaimed, " There's no light 
 on Mauna Loa; the fire's gone out." We rushed out, and 
 though the night was clear and frosty, the mountain curve rose 
 against the sky without the accustomed wavering glow upon it. 
 " I'm afraid you'll have your trouble for nothing," Mr. Oilman 
 unsympathisingly remarked ; " anyhow, its awfully cold up 
 there," and rubbing his hands, reseated himself at the fire. Mr. 
 G. and I stayed out till we were half-frozen, and I persuaded 
 myself and him that there was a redder tinge than the moon- 
 light above the summit, but the mountain has given no sign all 
 day, so that I fear that I " evolved " the light out of my 
 " inner consciousness." 
 
 Mr. Oilman was eloquent on the misfortunes of our prede- 
 cessors, lent me a pair of woollen socks to put on over my 
 gloves, told me privately that if anyone could succeed in getting 
 a guide it would be Mr. Oreen, and dispatched us at eight this 
 morning with -a lurking smile at our "fool's errand," thinly 
 veiled by warm wishes for our success. Mr. Reid has two 
 ranches on the mountain, seven miles distant from each other, 
 and was expected every hour at the crater-house on his way 
 to Hilo, but it was not known from which he was coming, and 
 as it appeared that our last hope of getting a guide lay in 
 securing his goodwill, Mr. O., his servant, and pack-mule took 
 the lower trail, and I, with a native, a string of mules, and a 
 pack-horse, the upper. Our plans for intercepting the good 
 man were well laid and successful, but turned out resultless. 
 
 This has been an irresistibly comical day, and it is just as 
 well to have something amusing interjected between the subli- 
 mities of Kilauea, and whatever to-morrow may bring forth. 
 When our cavalcades separated, I followed the guide on a blind 
 trail into the little-known regions on the skirts of Mauna Loa. 
 
LETTER XXIX.] EARTHQUAKES. 259 
 
 We only travelled two miles an hour, and the mules kept 
 getting up rows, kicking, and entangUng their legs in the lariats, 
 and one peculiarly malign animal dealt poor Kahdl^ a gratuitous 
 kick on his nose, making it bleed. 
 
 It is a strange, unique country, without any beauty. The sea- 
 ward view is over a great stretch of apparent table-land, spotted 
 with craters, and split by cracks emitting smoke or steam. The 
 whole region is black with streams of spiked and jagged lava, 
 meandering over it, with charred stumps of trees rising out of 
 them. 
 
 The trail, if such it could be called, wound among koa and 
 sandalwood trees occasionally, but habitually we picked our way 
 over waves, coils, and hummocks of pahoehoe surrounded by 
 volcanic sand, and with only a few tufts of grass, abortive ohelos, 
 and vigorous sow-thistles (much relished by Kahdld) growing in 
 their crevices. Horrid cracks, 50 or 60 feet wide, probably 
 made by earthquakes, abounded, and a black chasm of most 
 infernal aspect dogged us on the left. It was all scrambHng up 
 and down. Sometimes there was long, ugly grass, a brownish 
 green, coarse and tufty, for a mile or more. Sometimes clumps 
 of wintry-looking, dead trees, sometimes clumps of attenuated 
 living ones ; but nothing to please the eye. We saw neither 
 man nor beast the whole way, except a wild bull, which, tearing 
 down the mountain side, crossed the trail just in front of us, 
 causing a stampede among the mules, and it was fully an hour 
 before they were all caught again. 
 
 The only other incident was an earthquake, the most severe, 
 the men here tell rne, that has been experienced for two years. 
 One is prepared for any caprices on the part of the earth here, 
 yet when there was a fearful internal throbbing and rumbling, 
 and the trees and grass swayed rapidly, and great rocks and 
 masses of soil were dislodged, and bounded down the hillside, 
 and the earth reeled, and my poor horse staggered and stopped 
 short, far from rising to the magnitude of the occasion, I 
 thought I was attacked with vertigo, and grasped the horn of 
 my saddle to save myself from falling. After a moment of 
 profound stillness, there was again a subterranean sound like a 
 train in a tunnel, and the earth reeled again with such violence, 
 that I felt as if the horse and myself had gone over. Poor K. 
 was nervous for some time afterwards. The motion was as 
 violent as that of a large ship in a mid-Atlantic storm. There 
 were four minor shocks v/ithin half an hour afterwards. 
 
 After crawling along for seven hours, and for the last two in 
 
26o HA WAIT. [letter xxix. 
 
 a dripping fog, so dense that I had to keep within kicking 
 range of the mules for fear of being lost, we heard the lowing 
 of domestic cattle, and came to a place where felled trees, very 
 difficult for the horses to cross, were lying. Then a rude 
 boundary wall appeared, inside of which was a small, poor- look- 
 ing grass house, consisting of one partially-divided room, with 
 a small, ruinous-looking cook-house, a shed, and an unfinished 
 frame-house near it. It looked, and is, a disconsolate con- 
 clusion of a wet day's ride. I rode into the corral, and found 
 two or three very rough-looking whites and half-whites stand- 
 ing, and addressing one of them, I found he was Mr. Reid's 
 manager there. I asked if they could give me a night's lodg- 
 ing, which seemed a diverting notion to them ; and they said 
 they could give me the rough accommodation they had, but it 
 was hard even for them, till the new house was put up. They 
 brought me into this very rough shelter, a draughty grass room, 
 with a bench, table, and one chair in it. Two men came in, 
 but not the native wife and family, and sat down to a calabash 
 of pot and some strips of dried beef, food so coarse, that they 
 apologised for not offering it to me. They said they had sent 
 to the lower ranch for some flour, and in the meantime they 
 gave me some milk in a broken bowl, their " nearest approach 
 to a tumbler," they said. I was almost starving, for all our 
 food was on the pack-mule. This is the place where we 
 had been told that we could obtain tea, flour, beef, and 
 fowls ! 
 
 By some fatality my pen, ink, and knitting were on the pack- 
 mule; it was very cold, the afternoon fog closed us in, and 
 darkness came on prematurely, so that I felt a most absurd 
 sense of etinui, and went over to the cook-house, where I found 
 Gandle cooking, and his native wife, with a heap of children 
 and dogs lying round the stove. I joine* them till my clothes 
 were dry, on which the man, who, in spite of his rough exterior, 
 was really friendly and hospitable, remarked that he saw I was 
 " one of the sort who knew, how to take people as I found 
 them." 
 
 This regular afternoon mist which sets in at a certain altitude, 
 blotting out the sun and sky, and bringing the horizon within a 
 few yards, makes me certain after all that the mists of rainless 
 Eden were a phenomenon, the loss of which is not to be 
 regretted. 
 
 Still the afternoon hung on, and I went back to the house 
 feeling that the most desirable event which the future could 
 
LETTER XXIX.] A PICTURESQUE SCENE. 261 
 
 produce would be — a meal. Now and then the men came in 
 and talked for a while, and as the darkness and cold intensified, 
 they brought in an arrangement extemporised out of what 
 looked like a battered tin bath, half full of earth, with some 
 lighted faggots at the top, which gave out a little warmth and 
 much stinging smoke. Actual, undoubted, night came on 
 without Mr. Green, of whose failure I felt certain, and without 
 food, and being blinded by the smoke, I rolled myself in a 
 blanket and fell asleep on the bench, only to wake in a great 
 fright, believing that the volcano house was burning over my 
 head, and that a venerable missionary was taking advantage of 
 the confusion to rob my saddle-bags, which in truth one of the 
 men was moving out of harm's way, having piled up the fire 
 two feet high. 
 
 Presently a number of voices outside shouted Hook ! and 
 Mr. Green came in shaking the water from his waterproof, with 
 the welcome words, " Everything's settled for to-morrow." Mr. 
 Reid threw cold water on the ascent, and could give no help ; 
 and Mr. G. being thus left to himself, after a great deal of 
 trouble, has engaged as guide an active young goat-hunter, who, 
 though he has never been to the top of the mountain, knows 
 other parts of it so well that he is sure he can take us up. Mr. 
 G. also brings an additional mule and pack-horse, so that our 
 equipment is complete, except in the matter of cruppers, which 
 we have been obliged to make for ourselves out of goats' hair 
 rope, and old stockings. If Mr. G. has an eye for the pic- 
 turesque, he must have been gratified as he came in from the 
 fog and darkness into the grass room, with the flaring fire in the 
 middle, the rifles gleaming on the wall, the two men in very- 
 rough clothing, and myself huddled up in a blanket sitting on 
 the floor, where my friend was very glad to join us. 
 
 Mr. Green has brought nothing but tea from Kapapala, but 
 Gandle has made some excellent rolls, besides feasting us on 
 stewed fowl, dough nuts, and milk ! Little comfort is promised 
 for to-night, as Gandle says, with a twinkle of kindly malice in 
 his eye, that we shall not " get a wink of sleep, for the place 
 swarms with fleas." They are a great pest of the colder regions 
 of the islands, and, like all other nuisances, are said to have 
 been imported ! Gandle and the other man have entertained 
 us with the misfortunes of our predecessors, on which th»Y 
 seem to gloat with ill-omened satisfaction, 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER yjyuyi.—contimted. 
 
 Ascent of Manna Loa — Pahoehoe and a-a — The Crater of Mokuaweoweo 
 — The Great Fire-fountain — Our Camp — A Night Scene— An 
 Alarming Ride. 
 
 Kapapala, June Zth. 
 
 The fleas at Ainepo quite fulfilled Mr. Candle's prognostica- 
 tions, and I was glad when the stars went out one by one, 
 and a red, cloudless dawn broke over the mountain, accom- 
 panied by a heavy dew and a morning mist, which soon rolled 
 itself up into rosy folds and disappeared, and there was a legi- 
 timate excuse for getting up. Our host provided us with flour, 
 sugar, and dough nuts, and a hot breakfast, and our expedition, 
 comprising two natives who knew not a word of English, Mr. 
 G. who 'does not know very much more Hawaiian than I do, 
 and myself, started at seven. We had four superb mules, and 
 two good pack-horses, a large tent, and a plentiful supply of 
 camping blankets. I put on all my own warm clothes, as well 
 as most of those which had been lent to me, which gave me 
 the squat, padded look of a puffin or Esquimaux, but all and 
 more were needed long before we reached the top. The mules 
 were beyond all praise. They went up the most severe ascent 
 I have ever seen, chmbing steadily for nine hours, without a 
 touch of the spur, and after twenty-four hours of cold, thirst, and . 
 hunger, came down again as actively as cats. The pack-horses 
 too were very good, but from the comparative clumsiness with 
 which they move their feet they were severely cut. 
 
 We went off, as usual, in single file, the guide first, and Mr. 
 G. last. The track was passably legible for some time, and 
 wound through long grass and small koa trees, mixed with 
 stunted ohias and a few common ferns. Half these koa trees 
 are dead, and all, both living and dead, have their branches 
 covered with a long hairy lichen, nearly white, making the dead 
 forest in the slight mist look like a wood in England when 
 covered with rime on a fine winter morning. The koa tree has 
 
LETTER XXIX.] A WASTE OF LAVA. 263 
 
 a peculiarity of bearing two distinct species of leaves on the 
 same twig, one like a curved willow leaf, the other that of an 
 acacia. 
 
 After two hours' ascent we camped on the verge of the timber 
 line, and fed our animals, while the two natives hewed firewood, 
 and loaded the spare pack-horse with it. The sky was by that 
 time cloudless, and the atmosphere briUiant, and both remained 
 so until we reached the same place twenty-eight hours later, 
 so that the weather favoured us in every respect, for there is 
 " weather " on the mountain, rains, fogs, and wind storms. The 
 grass only grows sparsely in tufts above this place, and though 
 vegetation exists up to a height of 10,000 feet on this side, it 
 consists, for the most part, of grey lichens, a little withered 
 grass, and a hardy asplenium. 
 
 At this spot the real business of the ascent begins, and we 
 tightened our girths, distributed the baggage as fairly as possible, 
 and made all secure before remounting. 
 
 We soon entered on vast uplands of pahoehoe which ground 
 away the animals' feet, a horrid waste, extending upwards for 
 7000 feet. For miles and miles, above and around, great bil- 
 lowy masses, tossed and twisted into an infinity of fantastic 
 shapes, arrest and weary the eye, lava in all its forms, from a 
 compact phonolite to the lightest pumice stone, the mere froth 
 of the volcano. Recollect the vastness of this mountain. The 
 whole south of this large island, down to and below the water's 
 edge, is composed of its slopes. Its height is nearly three miles, 
 and its base is 180 miles in circumference, so that Wales might 
 be packed away within it, leaving room to spare. Yet its whole 
 bulk, above a height of about 8000 feet, is one frightful desert, 
 at once the creation and the prey of the mightiest force on 
 earth. 
 
 Struggling, slipping, tumbling, jumping, ledge after ledge 
 was surmounted, but still, upheaved against the glittering sky, 
 rose new difficulties to be overcome. Immense bubbles have 
 risen from the confused masses, and bursting, have yawned 
 apart. Swift-running streams of more recent lava have cleft 
 straight furrows through the older congealed surface. Massive 
 flows have fallen in, exposing caverned depths of jagged out- 
 hnes. Earthquakes have riven the mountain, splitting its sides 
 and opening deep crevasses, which must be leapt or circum- 
 vented. Horrid streams of a-a, which, after rushing remorse- 
 lessly over the kindlier lava, have heaped rugged pinnacles of 
 brown scoria; into impassable walls, have to be cautiously 
 
264 HA WAIL [letter xxix. 
 
 skirted. Winding round the bases of tossed up, fissured hum- 
 mocks of pahoehoe, leaping from one broken hummock to 
 another, clambering up acclivities so steep that the pack-horse 
 rolled backwards once, and my cat-like mule fell twice, moving 
 cautiously over crusts which rang hollow to the tread ; stepping 
 over deep cracks, which, perhaps, led down to the burning, 
 fathomless sea, traversing hilly lakes ruptured by earthquakes, 
 and split in cooling into a thousand fissures, painfully toiling 
 up the sides of mounds of scoria frothed with pumice-stone, 
 and again for miles surmounting rolling surfaces of billowy, 
 ropy lava — so passed the long day, under the tropic sun and 
 the deep blue sky. 
 
 Towards afternoon, clouds heaped themselves in snowy 
 masses, all radiance and beauty to us, all fog and gloom below, 
 girdling the whole mountain, and interposing their glittering 
 screen between us and the dark timber belt, the black, 
 smoking shores of Kau, and the blue shimmer of the Pacific. 
 From that time, for twenty-four hours, the lower world, and 
 " works and ways of busy men " were entirely shut out, and 
 we were alone with this trackless and inanimate region of 
 horror. 
 
 For the first time our guide hesitated as to the right track, 
 for the faint suspicion of white smoke, which had kept alive 
 our hope that the fire was still burning, had ceased to be 
 visible. We called a halt while he reconnoitred, tried to eat 
 some food, found that our pulses were beating loo a minute, 
 bathed our heads, specially our temples, with snow, as we had 
 been advised to do by the oldest mountaineer on Hawaii, and 
 heaped on yet more clothing. In fact, I tied a double woollen 
 scarf over all my face but my eyes, and put on a French soldier's 
 overcoat, with cape and hood, which Mr. Green had brought 
 in case of emergency. The cold had become intense. We 
 had not wasted words at any time, and on remounting, pre- 
 served as profound a silence as if we were on a forlorn hope, 
 even the natives intermitting their ceaseless gabble. 
 
 Upwards still, in the cold bright air, coasting the edges of 
 deep cracks, climbing endless terraces, the mules panting 
 heavily, our breath coming as if from excoriated lungs, — so we 
 surmounted the highest ledge. But on reaching the apparent 
 summit we were to all appearance as far from the faint smoke 
 as ever, for this magnificent dome, whose base is sixty miles in 
 diameter, is crowned by a ghastly, volcanic table-land, cre- 
 viced, riven, and ashy, twenty-four miles in circumference. A 
 
LETTER XXIX.] " WRONG" ON MAUNA LOA. 265 
 
 table-land, indeed, of dark grey lava, blotched by outbursts, 
 and torn by streams of browTi a-a, and full of hideous cre- 
 vasses and fearful shapes, as if a hundred waves of lava had 
 rolled themselves one on another, and had congealed in con- 
 fused heaps. 
 
 Our guide took us a little wrong once, but soon recovered 
 himself with much sagacity. " Wrong " on Mauna Loa means 
 being arrested by an impassable a-a stream, and our last pre- 
 decessors had nearly been stopped by getting into one in which 
 they suffered severely. 
 
 These a-a streams are very deep, and when in a state of 
 fusion move along in a mass twenty feet high sometimes, with 
 very solid walls. Professor Alexander, of Honolulu, supposes 
 them to be from the beginning less fluid than pahoehoe, and 
 that they advance very slowly, being full of solid points, or 
 centres of cooling : that a-a, in fact, grains like sugar. Its 
 hardness is indescribable. It is an aggregate of upright, rugged, 
 adamantine points, and at a distance, a river of it looks like a 
 dark brown Mer de Glace. 
 
 At half-past four we reached the edge of an a-a stream, about 
 as wide as the Ouse at Huntingdon Bridge,- and it was obvious 
 that somehow or other we must cross it : indeed, I know not 
 if it be possible to reach the crater without passing through one 
 or another of these obstacles.* I should have liked to have 
 left the animals there, but it was represented as impossible to 
 proceed on foot, and though this was a decided misrepresenta- 
 tion, Mr. Green plunged in. I had resolved that he should 
 never have any bother in consequence of his kindness in 
 taking me with him, and, indeed, everyone had enough to do 
 in taking care of himself and his own beast, but I never found 
 it harder to repress a cry for help. Not that I was in the least 
 danger, but there was every risk of the beautiful mule being 
 much hurt, or breaking her legs. The fear shown by the 
 animals was pathetic ; they shrank back, cowered, trembled, 
 breathed hard and heavily, and stumbled and plunged ■ pain- 
 fully. It was sickening to see their terror and suffering, the 
 struggling and slipping into cracks, the blood and torture. The 
 mules with their small legs and wonderful agility were more 
 frightened than hurt, but the horses were splashed with blood 
 up to their knees, and their poor eyes looked piteous. 
 
 * Professor George Forbes who ascended Mauna Loa in 1875, informs 
 me tliat he reached the crater without passing through a-a. 
 
266 HAWAII. [letter xxix. 
 
 We were then, as we knew, close to the edge of the crater, 
 but the faint smoke wreath had disappeared, and there was 
 nothing but the westering sun hanging like a ball over the 
 black horizon of the desolate summit. We rode as far as a 
 deep fissure filled with frozen snow, with a ledge beyond, 
 threw ourselves from our mules, jumped the fissure, and more 
 than 800 feet below yawned the inaccessible blackness and 
 horror of the crater of Mokuaweoweo, six miles in circum- 
 ference, and 11,000 feet long by 8000 wide. The mystery 
 was solved, for at one end of the crater, in a deep gorge of its 
 own, above the level of the rest of the area, there was the lonely 
 fire, the reflection of which, for six weeks, has been seen for 
 100 miles. 
 
 Nearly opposite us, a thing of beauty, a fountain of pure, 
 yellow fire, unlike the gory gleam of Kilauea, was regularly 
 playing in several united but independent jets, throwing up its 
 glorious incandescence, to a height, as we afterwards ascer- 
 tained, of from 150 to 300 feet, and attaining at one time 600 ! 
 You cannot imagine such a beautiful sight. The sunset gold 
 was not purer than the living fire. The distance which we 
 were from it, divested it of the inevitable horrors which sur- 
 round it. It was all beauty. For the last two miles of the 
 ascent, we had heard a distant, vibrating roar-: there, at the 
 crater's edge, it was a glorious sound, the roar of an ocean at 
 dispeace, mingled with the hollow murmur of surf echoing in 
 sea caves, booming on, rising and falling, like the thi;nder 
 music of windward Hawaii. 
 
 We sat on the ledge outside the fissure for some time, and 
 Mr. Green actually proposed to pitch the tent there, but I dis- 
 suaded him, on the ground that an earthquake might send the 
 whole thing tumbling into the crater ; nor was this a whimsical 
 objection, for during the night there were two such falls, and 
 after breakfast, another quite near us. 
 
 We had travelled for two days under a strong impression 
 that the fires had died out, so you can imagine the sort of 
 stupor of satisfaction with which we feasted on the glorious 
 certainty. Yes, it was glorious, that far-off fire-fountain, and 
 the lurid cracks in the slow-moving, black-crusted flood, which 
 passed calmly down from the higher level to the grand area of 
 the crater. 
 
 This area, over two miles long, and a mile and a half wide, 
 with precipitous sides 800 feet deep, and a broad second shelf 
 about 300 feet below the one we occupied, at that time ap- 
 
LETTER XXIX.] CAMPING ON THE SUMMIT. 267 
 
 peared a dark grey, tolerably level lake, with great black 
 blotches, and yellow and white stains, the whole much fissured. 
 No steam or smoke proceeded from any part of the level sur- 
 face, and it had the unnaturally dead look which follows the 
 action of fire. A ledge, or false beach, which must mark a 
 once higher level of the lava, skirts the lake, at an elevation of 
 thirty feet probably, and this fringed the area with various signs 
 of present volcanic action, steaming sulphur banks, and heavy 
 jets of smoke. The other side, above the crater, has a ridgy, 
 broken look, giving the false impression of a mountainous 
 region beyond. At this time the luminous fountain, and the 
 red cracks in the river of lava which proceeded from it, were 
 the only fires visible in the great area of blackness. In former 
 days people have descended to the floor of the crater, but 
 ^ owing to the breaking away of the accessible part of the preci- 
 pice, a descent is not feasible, though I doubt not that a 
 man might even now get down, if he went up with suitable 
 tackle, and sufficient assistance. 
 
 The one disappointment was that this extraordinary fire- 
 fountain was not only 800 feet below us, but nearly three- 
 quarters of a mile from us, and that it was impossible to get 
 any nearer to it. Those who have made the ascent before have 
 found themselves obliged either to camp on the very spot we 
 occupied, or a little below it. 
 
 The natives pitched the tent as near to the crater as was 
 safe, with one pole in a crack, and the other in the great fis- 
 sure, which was filled to within three feet of the top with snow 
 and ice. As the opening of the tent was on the crater side, we 
 could not get in or out without going down into this crevasse. 
 The tent walls were held down with stones to make it as snug 
 as possible, but smig is a word of the lower earth, and has no 
 meaning on that frozen mountain top. The natural floor was 
 of rough slabs of lava, laid partly edgewise, so that a newly 
 macadamised road would have been as soft a bed. The 
 natives spread the horse blankets over it, and I arranged the 
 camping blankets, made my own part of the tent as comfort- 
 able as possible by putting my inverted saddle down for a 
 pillow, put on my last reserve of warm clothing, took the food 
 out of the saddle bags, and then felt how impossible it was to 
 exert myself in the rarefied air, or even to upbraid Mr. Green 
 for having forgotten the tea, of which I had reminded him as 
 often as was consistent with politeness ! 
 
 This discovery was not made till after we had boiled the 
 
268 HA WAIL [letter xxix. 
 
 kettle, and my dismay was softened by remembering that as 
 water boils up there at 192" our tea would have been worth- 
 less. In spite of my objection to stimulants, and in defiance 
 of the law against giving liquor to natives, I made a great tin 
 of brandy toddy, of which all partook, along with tinned salmon 
 and dough-nuts. Then the men piled faggots on the fire and 
 began their everlasting chatter, and Mr. Green and I, huddled 
 up in blankets, sat on the outer ledge in solemn silence, to 
 devote ourselves to the volcano. 
 
 The sun was just setting : the tooth-like peaks of Mauna 
 Kea, cold and snow slashed, which were blushing red, the next 
 minute turned ghastly against a chilly sky, and with the dis- 
 appearance of the sun it became severely cold ; yet we were 
 alDle to remain there till 9.30, the first pieople to whom such a 
 thing has been possible, so supremely favoured were we by the 
 absence of wind. 
 
 When the sun had set, and the brief, red glow of the tropics 
 had vanished, a new world came into being, and wonder after 
 wonder flashed forth from the previously lifeless crater. Every- 
 where through its vast expanse appeared glints of fire — fires 
 bright and steady, burning in rows like blast furnaces ; fires 
 lone and isolated, unwinking like planets, or twinkling like 
 , stars ; rows of little fires marking the margin of the lowest 
 level of the crater ; fire molten in deep crevasses ; fire in wavy 
 lines ; fire, calm, stationary, and restful : an incandescent lake 
 two miles in length beneath a deceptive crust of darkness, and 
 whose depth one dare not fathom even in thought. Broad in 
 the glare, giving light enough to read by at a distance of three- 
 quarters of a mile, making the moon look as blue as an ordi- 
 nary English sky, its golden gleam changed to a vivid rose 
 colour, lighting up the whole of the vast precipices of that 
 part of the crater with a rosy red, bringing out every detail 
 here, throwing cliffs and heights into huge, black masses there, 
 rising, falling, never intermitting, leaping in lofty jets with 
 glorious shapes like wheatsheaves, coruscating, reddening, the 
 most glorious thing beneath the moon was the fire-fountain of 
 Mokuaweoweo. 
 
 By day the cooled crust of the lake had looked black and 
 even sooty, with a fountain of molten gold playing upwards 
 from it ; by night it was all incandescent, with black blotches 
 of cooled scum upon it, which were perpetually being devoured. 
 The centre of the lake was at a wl^ite heat, and waves of white 
 hot lava appeared to be wallowing there as in a whirlpool, and 
 
LETTER XXTX.] A WORLD OF FIRE. 269 
 
 from this centre the fountain rose, solid at its base, which is 
 estimated at 150 feet in diameter, but thinning and frittering 
 as it rose into the air, and falhng from the great altitude to 
 which it attained, in fiery spray, which made a very distinct 
 clatter on the fiery surface below. When one jet was about 
 half high, another rose so as to keep up the action without 
 intermission ; and in the lower part of the fountain two subsi- 
 diary curved jets of great volume continually crossed each 
 other. So, " alone in its glory," perennial, self-born, springing 
 up in sparkling light, the fire-fountain played on as the hours 
 went by. 
 
 From the nearer margin of this incandescent lake there was 
 a mighty but deliberate overflow, a " silent tide " of fire, passing 
 to tlie lower level, glowing under and amidst its crust, with 
 the brightness of metal passing from a surface. In the bank 
 of partially cooled and crusted lava which appears to support 
 the lake, there were rifts showing the molten lava within. In 
 one place heavy, white vapour blew off in powerful jets from 
 the edge of the lake, and elsewhere there were frequent jets 
 and ebullitions of the same, but there was not a trace of 
 vapour over the burning lake itself The crusted large area, 
 with its blowing cones, blotches and rifts of fire, was nearly 
 all visible, and from the thickness and quietness of the crust 
 it was obvious that the ocean of lava below was comparatively 
 at rest, but a dark precipice concealed a part of the glowing 
 and highly agitated lake, adding another mystery to its 
 sublimity. 
 
 It is probable that the whole interior of this huge dome is 
 fluid, for the eruptions from this summit crater do not proceed 
 from its filling up and running over, but from the mountain 
 sides being unable to bear the enormous pressure ; when they 
 give way, high or low, and bursting, allow the fiery contents to 
 escape. So, in 1855, the mountain side split open, and the 
 lava gushed forth for thirteen months in a stream which ran 
 for 60 miles, and flooded Hawaii for 300 square miles.* 
 
 From the camping ground, immense cracks parallel with 
 the crater, extend for some distance, and the whole of the 
 compact grey stone of the summit is much fissured. These 
 cracks, like the one by which our tent was pitched, contain 
 water resting on ice. It shows the extreme difference of cli- 
 mate on the two sides of Hawaii, that while vegetation straggles 
 
 * Since white men have inhabited the islands, there have been ten 
 recorded eruptions from the craters of Mauna Loa, and one from Hualalai. 
 
270 HA WAIL [letter xxix. 
 
 up to a height of 10,000 feet on the windward side in a few 
 miserable, blasted forms, it absolutely ceases at a height of 
 7000 feet on the leeward. 
 
 It was too cold to sit up all night ; so by the " fire light " I 
 wrote the enclosed note to you with fingers nearly freezing on 
 the pen, and climbed into the tent. 
 
 It is possible that tent life in the East, or in the Rocky 
 Mountains, with beds, tables, travelling knick-knacks of all 
 descriptions, and servants who study their master's whims, 
 may be very charming ; but my experience of it having been 
 of the make-shift and non-luxurious kind, is not delectable. A 
 wooden saddle, without stuffing, made a very fair pillow ; but 
 the ridges of the lava were severe. I could not spare enough 
 blankets to soften them, and one particularly intractable point 
 persisted in making itself felt. I crowded on everything attain- 
 able, two pairs of gloves, with Mr. Oilman's socks over them, 
 and a thick plaid muffled up my face. Mr. Green and the 
 natives, buried in blankets, occupied the other part of the tent. 
 The phrase, "sleeping on the brink of a volcano," was lite- 
 rally true, for I fell asleep, and fear I might have been 
 prosaic enough to sleep all night, had it not been for fleas 
 which had come up in the camping blankets. When I woke, 
 it was light enough to see that the three muffled figures were 
 all asleep, instead of spending the night in shiverings and 
 vertigo, as it appears that others have done. Doubtless the 
 bathing of our heads several times with snow and ice- water had 
 been beneficial. 
 
 Circumstances were singular. It was a strange . thing to 
 sleep on a lava-bed at a height of nearly 14,000 feet, far away 
 from the nearest dwelling, " in a region," as Mr. Jarves says, 
 " rarely visited by man," hearing all the time the roar, clash, 
 and thunder of the mightiest volcano in the world. It seemed 
 a wild dream, as that majestic sound moved on. There were 
 two loud reports, followed by a prolonged crash, occa- 
 sioned by parts of the crater walls giving way ; vibrating 
 rumblings, as if of earthquakes ; and then a louder surging 
 of the fiery ocean, and a series of most imposing detonations. 
 Creeping over the sleeping forms, which never stirred even 
 though I had to kneel upon one of the natives while I untied 
 the flap of the tent, I crept cautiously into the crevasse in which 
 the snow-water was then hard frozen, and out upon the pro- 
 jecting ledge. The four hours in which we had previously 
 watched the volcano had passed like one ; but the lonely hours 
 
LETTER XXIX.] MIDNIGHT ON THE VOLCANO. 271 
 
 which followed might have been two minutes or a year, for 
 time was obliterated. 
 
 Coldly the Pole-star shivered above the frozen summit, and 
 a blue moon, nearly full, withdrew her faded light into infinite 
 space. The Southern Cross had set. Two peaks below the 
 Pole-star, sharply defined against the sky, were the only signs 
 of any other world than the world of fire and mystery around. 
 It was light, broadly, vividly light ; the sun himself, one would 
 have thought, might look pale beside it. But such a light ! 
 The silver index of my thermometer, which had fallen to 23° 
 Fahrenheit, was ruby red ; that of the aneroid, which gave the 
 height at 13,603 feet, was the same. The white duck of the 
 tent was rosy, and all the crater walls and the dull-grey ridges 
 which lie around were a vivid rose red. 
 
 All Hawaii was sleeping. Our Hilo friends looked out the 
 last thing ; saw the glare, and probably wondered how we were 
 "getting on," high up among the stars. Mine were the only 
 mortal eyes which saw what is perhaps the grandest spectacle 
 on earth. Once or twice I felt so overwhelmed by the very 
 sublimity of the loneliness, that I turned to the six animals, 
 which stood shivering in the north wind, without any conscious- 
 ness than that of cold, hunger, and thirst. It was some relief 
 even to pity them, for pity was at least a human feeling, and 
 a momentary rest from the thrill of the new sensations inspired 
 by the circumstances. The moon herself looked a wan, un- 
 familiar thing — not the same moon which floods the palm and 
 mango groves of Hilo with light and tenderness. And those 
 palm and mango groves, and lighted homes, and seas, and 
 ships, and cities, and faces of friends, and all familiar things, 
 and the day before, and the years before, were as things in 
 dreams, coming up out of a vanished past. And would there 
 ever be another day, and would the earth ever be young and 
 green again, and would men buy and sell and strive for gold, 
 and should I ever with a human voice tell living human beings 
 of the things of this midnight ? How far it was from all the 
 world, uplifted above love, hate, and storms of passion, and 
 war, and wreck of thrones, and dissonant clash of human 
 thought, serene in the eternal solitudes ! 
 
 Things had changed, as they change hourly in craters. The 
 previous loud detonations were probably connected with the 
 evolutions of some " blowing cones," which were now very 
 fierce, and throwing up lava at the comparatively dead end of 
 the crater. Lone stars of fire broke out frequently through 
 
2;2 . HAWAII. [letter XXIX. 
 
 the blackened crust. The molten river, flowing from the in- 
 candescent lake, had advanced and broadened considerably. 
 That lake itself, whose diameter has been estimated at 800 
 feet, was rose-red and self-illuminated, and the increased noise 
 was owing to the increased force of the fire-fountain, which 
 was playing regularly at a height of 300 feet, with the cross 
 fountains, like wheat-sheaves, at its lower part. These cross- 
 fountains were the colour of a mixture of blood and fire, and 
 the lower part of the perpendicular jets was the same; but as 
 they rose and thinned, this colour passed into a vivid rose- 
 red, and the spray and splashes were as rubies and flame 
 mingled. For ever falling in fiery masses and fiery foam : 
 accompanied by a thunder-music of its own : companioned only 
 by the solemn stars : exhibiting no other token of its glories 
 to man than the reflection of its fires on mist and smoke ; it 
 burns for the Creator's eye alone, for no foot of mortal can 
 approach it. 
 
 Hours passed as I watched the indescribable glories of the 
 fire-fountain, its beauty of form, and its radiant reflection on 
 the precipices, 800 feet high, which wall it in, and listened 
 to its surges beating, and the ebb and flow of its thunder- 
 music. Thei^_a change occurred. The jets, which for long 
 had been playing at a height of 300 feet, suddenly became 
 quite low, and for a few seconds appeared as cones of fire 
 wallowing in a sea of light ; then with a roar like the sound of 
 gathering waters, nearly the whole surface of the lake was 
 lifted up by the action of some powerful internal force, and its 
 whole radiant mass, rose three times, in one glorious, upward 
 burst, to a height, as estimated by the surrounding cliffs, of 
 600 feet, while the earth trembled, and the moon and stars 
 withdrew abashed into far-off space. After this the fire- 
 fountain played as before. The cold had become intense, 
 11° of frost; and I crept back into the tent: those words 
 occurring to me with a new meaning, " dwelling in the light 
 which no man can approach unto." 
 
 We remained in the tent till the sun had slightly warmed 
 the air, and then attempted to prepare breakfast by the fire ; 
 but no one could eat anything, and the native from Waimea 
 complained of severe headache, which shortly became ago- 
 nizing, and he lay on the ground moaning, and completely 
 prostrated by mountain sickness. I felt extreme lassitude, and 
 exhausdon followed the slightest eff'ort ; but the use of snow 
 to the head produced great relief. The water in our canteens 
 
LETTER XXIX.] DESCENT OF MA UNA LOA. 273 
 
 was hard frozen, and the keenness of the cold aggravated the 
 uncomfortable symptoms which accompany pulses at no". 
 The native guide was the only person capable of work, so we 
 were late in getting off, and rode four and a half hours to the 
 camping ground, only stopping once to tighten our girths. Not 
 a rope, strap, buckle, or any of our gear gave way, and though 
 I rode without a crupper, the breeching of a pack mule's saddle 
 kept mine steady. 
 
 The descent, to the riders, is far more trying than the ascent, 
 owing to the continued stretch of very steep declivity for 
 8000 feet ; but our mules never tripped, and came into 
 Ainepo as if they had not travelled at all. The horses were 
 terribly cut, both again in the a-a stream, and on the descent. 
 It was sickening to follow them, for at first they left fragments 
 of hide and hair on the rocks, then flesh, and when there was 
 no more hide or flesh to come off their poor heels and fet- 
 locks, blood dripped on every rock, and if they stood still for 
 a few moments, every hoof left a little puddle of gore. We had 
 all the enjoyment and they all the misery. I was much ex- 
 hausted when we reached the camping-ground, but soon revived 
 under the influence of foodj but the poor native, who was 
 really very ill, abandoned himself to wretchedness, and has only- 
 recovered to-day. 
 
 The belt of cloud which was all radiance above, was all 
 drizzling fog below, and we reached Ainepo in a regular Scotch 
 mist. The ranchmen seemed rather grumpy at our suc- 
 cessful ascent, which involved the failure of all their pro- 
 phecies, and, indeed, we were thoroughly unsatisfactory 
 travellers, arriving fresh and complacent, with neither adven- 
 tures nor disasters to gladden people's hearts. We started for 
 this ranch seven miles further, soon after dark, and arrived 
 before nine, after the most successful ascent of Mauna Loa 
 ever made. 
 
 Without being a Sybarite, I certainly do prefer a comfortable 
 pulu bed to one of ridgy lava, and the fire which blazes on this 
 broad hearth to the camp-fire on the frozen top of the volcano. 
 The worthy ranchman expected us, and has treated us very 
 sumptuously, and even Kahel^ is being regaled on Chinese 
 sorghum. The Sunday's rest, too, is a luxury, which I wonder 
 that travellers can ever forego. If one is always on the move,, 
 even very vivid impressions are hunted out of the memory by 
 the last new thing. Though I am not unduly tired, even had 
 it not been Sunday, I should have liked a day m which to recall 
 
274 HAWAh. [letter XXIX. 
 
 and arrange my memories of Mauna Loa before the forty-eight 
 miles' ride to Hilo. 
 
 This afternoon, we were sitting under the verandah tallcing 
 volcanic talk, when there was a loud rumbling, and a smart 
 shock of earthquake, and I have been twice interrupted in 
 writing this letter by other shocks, in wliich all the frame-work 
 ■of the house has yawned and closed again. They say that four 
 years ago, at the time of the great " mud flow" which is close 
 by, this house was moved several feet by an earthquake, 
 and that all the cattle walls which surround it were thrown 
 down. The ranchman tells us that on January 7th and 8th, 
 1873, there was a sudden and tremendous outburst of Mauna 
 Loa. The ground, he says, throbbed and quivered for twenty 
 miles ; a tremendous roaring, like that of a blast furnace, was 
 heard for the same distance, and clouds of black smoke trailed 
 out over the sea for thirty miles. 
 
 We have dismissed our guide with encomiums. His charge 
 was $10 ; but Mr. Green would not allow me to share that, or 
 any part of the expense, or pay anything, but $6 for my own 
 mule. The guide is a goat-hunter, and the chase is very 
 curiously pursued. The hunter catches sight of a flock of goats, 
 and hunts them up the mountain, till, agile and fleet of foot as 
 they are, he actually tires them out, and gets close enough to 
 them to cut their throats for the sake of their skins. If I un- 
 derstand rightly, this young man has captured as many as 
 seventy in a day. 
 
 Crater House, Kilauea, June <)th. 
 
 This morning Mr. Green left for Kona, and I for Kilauea ; 
 the ranchman's native wife and her sister riding with me for 
 several miles to put me on the right track. Kahel^'s sociable 
 instincts are so strong, that, before they left me, I dismounted, 
 blindfolded him, and led him round and round several times, 
 a process which so successfully confused his intellects, that he 
 started off in this direction with more alacrity than usual. They 
 certainly put me on a track which could not be mistaken, for 
 it was a narrow, straight path, cut and hammered through 
 a broad, horrible a-a stream, whose jagged spikes were 
 the height of the horse. But beyond this lie ten miles of pa 
 hoehoe, the lava-flows of ages, with only now and then the 
 vestige of a trail. 
 
 Except the perilous crossing of the Hilo gulches in Feb- 
 ruary, this is the most difficult ride I have had — eerie and im- 
 
LETTER XXIX.] A DESOLATE REGION. 275 
 
 pressive in every way. The loneliness was absolute. For 
 several hours I saw no trace of human beings, except the very 
 rare print of a shod horse's hoof. It is a region for ever 
 " desolate and without inhabitant," trackless, waterless, silent, 
 as if it had passed into the passionless calm of lunar solitudes. 
 It is composed of rough hummocks of pahoehoe, rising out of 
 a sandy desert. Only stunted ohias, loaded with crimson tufts, 
 raise themselves out of cracks : twisted, tortured growths, 
 bearing their bright blossoms under protest, driven unwillingly 
 to be gay by a fiery soil and a fiery sun. To the left, there 
 was the high, dark wall of an a-a stream ; further yet, a tre- 
 mendous volcanic fissure, at times the bed of a fiery river, and 
 above this the towering dome of Mauna Loa, a brilliant 
 cobalt blue, lined and shaded with indigo where innumer- 
 able lava streams have seamed his portentous sides : his 
 whole beauty the effect of atmosphere, on an object in itself 
 hideous. Ahead and to the right were rolling miles of a 
 fahoeJwe sea, bounded by the unseen Pacific 3000 feet below, 
 with countless craters, fissures emitting vapour, and all other 
 concomitants of volcanic action ; bounded to the north by 
 the vast crater of Kilauea. On all this deadly region the sun 
 poured his tropic light and heat from one of the bluest skies I 
 ever saw. 
 
 The direction given me on leaving Kapapala was, that after 
 the natives left me I was to keep a certain crater on the 
 south-east till I saw the smoke of Kilauea; but there were 
 many craters. Horses cross the sand and hummocks as 
 nearly as possible on a bee line; but the lava rarely indi- 
 cates that anything has passed over it, and this morning a 
 strong breeze had rippled the sand, completely obliterating 
 the hoof-marks of the last traveller, and at times I feared that 
 losing myself, as many others have done, I should go mad with 
 thirst. I examined the sand narrowly for hoof-marks, and every 
 now and then found one, but always had the disappointment of 
 finding that it was made by an unshod horse, therefore not a 
 ridden one. Finding eyesight useless, I dismounted often, and 
 felt with my finger along the rolling lava for the slightest marks 
 of abrasion, which might show that shod animals had passed 
 that way, got up into an ohia to look out for the smoke of 
 Kilauea, and after three hours came out upon what I here 
 learn is the old track, disused because of the insecurity of the 
 ground. 
 
 It runs quite close to the edge of the crater, there 1000 
 
 T 2 
 
276 HA WAIT. [letter xxix. 
 
 feet in depth, and gives a magnificent view of the whole 
 area, with the pit and the blowing cones. But the region 
 through which the trail led was rather an alarming one, 
 being hollow and porous, all cracks and fissures, nefariously- 
 concealed by scrub and ferns. I found a place, as I thought, 
 free from risk, and gave Kahel^ a feed of oats on my plaid, 
 but before he had finished them there was a rumbling and 
 vibration, and he went into the ground above his knees, so 
 snatching up the plaid and jumping on him I galloped away, 
 convinced that that crack was following me ! However, either 
 the crack thought better of it, or Kahdld travelled faster, for in 
 another half-hour I arrived where the whole region steams, 
 smokes, and fumes with sulphur, and was kindly welcomed 
 here by Mr. Oilman, where he and the old Chinaman appear 
 to be alone. 
 
 After a seven hours' ride the quiet and the log fire are 
 very pleasant, and the host is a most intelligent and sym- 
 pathising listener. It is a solemn night, for the earth 
 quakes, and the sound of Halemaumau is like the surging of 
 the sea. 
 
 HiLO, June wth. 
 
 Once more I am among palm and mango groves, and 
 friendly faces, and sounds of softer surges than those of 
 Kilauea. I had a dreary ride yesterday, as the rain was 
 incessant, and I saw neither man, bird, or beast the whole 
 way. Kahdld was so heavily loaded that I rode the thirty 
 miles at a foot's pace, and he became so tired that I had 
 to walk. 
 
 It has been a splendid week, with every circumstance favour- 
 able, nothing sordid or worrying to disturb the impressions 
 received, kindness and goodwill everywhere, a travelling com- 
 panion whose consideration, endurance, and calmness were 
 beyond all praise, and at the end the cordial welcomes of my 
 Hawaiian "home.' 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXX.* 
 
 Captain Cook's Monument— Dreamland— The Dead Volcano of Hualalai 
 — l^assomg Cattle— "Praying to Death"— The Honolulu Mission. 
 
 Ridge House, Kona, Hawaii, June 12. 
 
 I LANDED in Kealakakua Bay on a black lava block, on 
 which tradition says that Captain Cook fell, struck with his 
 death-wound, a century ago. The morning sun was flaming 
 above the walls of lava 1000 feet in height which curve round 
 the dark bay, the green, deep water rolled shorewards in lazy 
 undulations, canoes piled full of pineapples poised themselves 
 on the swell, ancient coco-palms glassed themselves in still 
 waters — it was hot, silent, tropical. 
 
 The disturbance which made the bay famous is known to 
 every schoolboy ; how the great explorer, long supposed by 
 the natives to be their vanished god Lono, betrayed his earthly 
 hneage by groaning when he was wounded, and was then dis- 
 patched outright. A cocoanut stump, faced by a sheet of 
 copper recording the circumstance, is the great circumnavi- 
 gator's monument. A few miles beyond, is the enclosure of 
 Haunaunau, the City of Refuge for western Hawaii. In this 
 district there is a lava road ascribed to Umi, a legendary king, 
 who is said to have lived 500 years ago. It is very perfect, 
 well defined on both sides with kerb-stones, and greatly re- 
 sembles the chariot ways in Pompeii. Near it are several 
 structures formed of four stones, three being set upright, and 
 the fourth forming the roof In a northerly direction is the 
 place where Liholiho, the king who died in England, excited 
 
 * Several letters are omitted here, as they contain repetitions of journeys 
 and circumstances which have been amply detailed before. I went to the 
 Kona district for a few days only, intending to return to friends on Kauai 
 and Maui ; but owing to an alteration in the sailings of the Kilauea, 
 was detained there for a month, and afterwards, owing to uncertainties 
 connected with the San Francisco steamers, was obliged / to leave the 
 Islands abruptly, after a residence of nearly seven months. 
 
278 HA WAIL [LETTER XXX. 
 
 by drink and the persuasions of Kaahumanu, broke tabu, and 
 made an end of the superstitions of heathenism. Not far off 
 is the battle field on which the adherents of the idols rallied 
 their forces against the iconoclasts, and were miserably and 
 finally defeated. Recent lava streams have descended on 
 each side of the bay, and from the bare, black rock of the 
 landing a flow may be traced up the steep ascent as far as 
 a precipice, over which it falls in waves and twists, a cata- 
 ract of stone. A late lava river passed through the magni- 
 ficent forest on the southerly slope, and the impressions of 
 the stems of coco and fan palms are stamped clearly on the 
 smooth rock. The rainfall in Kona is heavy, but there is 
 no standing water, and only one stream in a distance of 100 
 miles. 
 
 This district is famous for oranges, coffee, pineapples, and 
 silence. A flaming, palm-fringed shore with a prolific strip of 
 table land 1500 feet above it, a dense timber belt eight miles 
 in breadth, and a volcano smoking somewhere between that 
 and the heavens, and glaring through the trees at night, are 
 the salient points of Kona if anything about it be salient. It 
 is a region where falls not 
 
 "... Hail or any snow. 
 Or ever wind blows loudly." 
 
 Wind indeed, is a thing unknown. The scarcely audible 
 whisper of soft airs through the trees morning and evening, 
 rain drops falling gently, and the murmur of drowsy surges far 
 below, alone break the stillness. No ripple ever disturbs the 
 expanse of ocean which gleams through the still, thick trees. 
 Rose in the sweet cool morning, gold in the sweet cool even- 
 ing, but always dreaming ; and white sails come and go, no 
 larger than a butterfly's wing on the horizon, of ships drifting 
 on ocean currents, dreaming too ! Nothing surely can ever 
 happen here : it is so dumb and quiet, and people speak in 
 hushed, thin voices, and move as in a lethargy, dreaming too ! 
 No heat, cold, or wind, nothing emphasised or italicised, it is 
 truly a region of endless afternoons, " a land where all things 
 always seem the same." Life is dead, and existence is a 
 languid swoon. 
 
 This is the only regular boarding house on Hawaii. The 
 company is accidental and promiscuous. The conversation 
 consists of speculations, varied and repeated with the hours, as 
 to the arrivals and departures of the Honolulu schooners 
 
LETTER XXX.] DREAMLAND. I'jc) 
 
 Uilama and Prince, who they will bring, who they will take, 
 and how long their respective passages will be. A certain 
 amount of local gossip is also hashed up at each meal, and 
 every stranger who has travelled through Hawaii for the' last 
 ten years is picked to pieces and worn threadbare, and his 
 purse, weight, entertainers, and habits are thoroughly can- 
 vassed. On whatever subject the conversation begins it 
 always ends in dollars ; but even that most stimulating of 
 all topics only arouses a languid interest among my fellow 
 dreamers. I spend most of my time in riding in the forests, 
 or along the bridle path which trails along the height, 
 among grass and frame-houses, almost smothered by trees and 
 trailers. 
 
 Many of these are inhabited by white men, who, having 
 drifted to these shores, have married native women, and are 
 rearing a dusky race, of children who speak the maternal 
 tongue only, and grow up with native habits. Some of these 
 men came for health, others landed from whalers, but of all it 
 is true that, infatuated by the ease and lusciousness of this 
 languid region, 
 
 " They sat them down vipon the yellow sand, 
 Between the sun and moon upon the shore ; 
 
 And sweet it was to dream of Fatherland, 
 . . . . ; but evermore 
 
 Most weary seem'd the sea, weary the oar, 
 Weary the wandering fields of barren foam. 
 
 Then some one said, ' We will return no more.' " 
 
 They have enough and more, and a life free from toil, but the 
 obvious tendency of these marriages is to sink the white man 
 to the level of native feelings and habits. 
 
 There are two or three educated residents, and there is a 
 small English church with daily service, conducted by a resi- 
 dent clergyman. 
 
 The beauty of this part of Kona is wonderful. The in- 
 terminable forest is richer and greener than anything I have 
 yet seen, but penetrable only by narrow tracks which have been 
 made for hauling timber. The trees are so dense, and so 
 matted together with trailers, that no ray of noon-day sun 
 brightens the moist tangle of exquisite mosses and ferns which 
 covers the ground. Yams with their burnished leaves, and 
 the Polypodium spectrum, wind round every tree stem, and 
 the heavy i'e, which here attains gigantic proportions, links the 
 tops of the tallest trees together by its knotted coils. Hot- 
 
zSo HA WAII, [letter xxx. 
 
 house flowers grow in rank profusion round every house, and 
 tea-roses, fuchsias, geraniums fifteen feet high, Nile hlies, 
 Chinese lantern plants, begonias, lantanas, hibiscus, passion- 
 flowers, Cape jasmine, the hoya, the tuberose, the beautiful but 
 overpoweringly sweet ginger plant, and a hundred others : 
 while the whole district is overrun with the Datura brug- 
 mansia (?), here an arborescent shrub fourteen feet high, bearing 
 seventy great, trumpet-shaped, white blossoms at a time, which 
 at night vie with those of the night-blowing Cereus in filling the 
 air with odours. 
 
 Pineapples and melons grow like weeds among the grass, 
 and everything that is good for food flourishes. Nothing can keep 
 under the redundancy of nature in Kona ; everything is profuse, 
 fervid, passionate, vivified and pervaded by sunshine. The 
 earth is restless in her productiveness, and forces up her hot- 
 house growth perpetually, so. that the miracle of Jonah's gourd 
 is almost repeated nightly. All decay is hurried out of sight, 
 and through the glowing year flowers blossom and fruits ripen ; 
 ferns are always uncurling their young fronds, and bananas 
 unfolding their great shining leaves, and spring blends her 
 everlasting youth and promise with the fulfilment and maturity 
 of summer. 
 
 " Never comes the trader, never floats a European flag, 
 Slides the bird o'er lustrous woodland, swings the trailer from the crag : 
 Droops the heavy blossom'd bower, hangs the heavy-fruited tree — 
 Summer isles of Eden lying in dark purple spheres of sea. " 
 
 HUALALAI, July 2%th. 
 
 I very soon left the languid life of Kona for this sheep 
 station, 6000 feet high on the desolate slope of the dead 
 volcano of Hualalai, (" offspring of the shining sun,") on the 
 invitation of its hospitable owner, who said if I " could eat his 
 rough fare, and live his rough life, his house and horses were 
 at my disposal." He is married to a very attractive native 
 woman who eats at his table, but does not know a word of 
 English, but they are both away at a wool-shed eight miles off, 
 shearing sheep. 
 
 This house is in the great volcanic wilderness of which I 
 wrote from Kalaieha, a desert of drouth and barrenness. 
 There is no permanent track, and on the occasions when I 
 have ridden up here alone, the directions given me have been 
 to steer for an ox bone, and from that to a dwarf oJiia. There 
 
LETTER XXX.] LIFE ON HUALALAI. 281 
 
 is no coming or going ; it is seventeen miles from the nearest 
 settlement, and looks across a desert valley to Mauna Loa. 
 Woody trailers, harsh, hard grass in tufts, the Asplenium 
 trichomanes in rifts, the Pellea ternifolia in sand, and some 
 ohia and mamane scrub in hollow places sheltered from the 
 wind, all hard, crisp, unlovely growths, contrast with the lavish 
 greenery below. A brisk cool wind blows all day ; every 
 afternoon a dense fog brings the horizon within 200 feet, but it 
 clears off with frost at dark, and the flames of the volcano 
 light the whole southern sky. 
 
 My companions are an amiable, rheumatic, native woman, 
 and a crone who must have lived a century, much shrivelled 
 and tattooed, and noarly childish. She talks to herself in 
 weird tones, stretches her lean limbs by the fire most of the 
 day, and in common with most of the old people has a pre- 
 judice against clothes, and prefers huddling herself up in a 
 blanket to wearing the ordinary dress of her sex. There is 
 also a dog, but he does not understand English, and for some 
 time I have not spoken any but Hawaiian words. I have 
 plenty to do, and find this a very satisfactory Hfc. 
 
 I came up to within eight miles of this house with a laughing, 
 hohday-making rout of twelve natives, who rode madly along 
 the narrow forest trail at full gallop, up and down the hills, 
 through mire and over stones, leaping over the trunks of pros- 
 trate trees, and stooping under branches with loud laughter, 
 challenging me to reckless races over difficult ground, and 
 when they found that the wahine haole was not to be thrown 
 from her horse they patted me approvingly, and crowned me 
 with leis of maile. I became acquainted with some of these at 
 Kilauea in the winter, and since I came to Kona they have 
 been very kind to me, 
 
 I thoroughly like living among them, taking meals with 
 them on their mats, and eating " two-fingered " poi as if I had 
 been used to it all my life. Their mirthfulness and kindliness 
 are most winning ; their horses, food, clothes, and time are all 
 bestowed on one so freely, and one lives amongst them with 
 a most restful sense of security. They have many faults, but 
 hving alone among them in their houses as I have done so 
 often on Hawaii, I have never seen or encountered a dis- 
 agreeable thing. But the more I see of them the more im- 
 pressed I am with their carelessness and love of pleasure, their 
 lack of ambition and a sense of responsibility, and the time 
 which they spend in doing nothing but talking and singing as 
 
282 JHA WAIT. [letter xxx. 
 
 they bask in the sun, though spasmodically and under excite- 
 ment they are capable of tremendous exertions in canoeing, 
 surf-riding, and lassoing cattle. 
 
 While down below I joined three natives for the purpose of 
 seeing this last sport. They all rode shod horses, and had 
 lassoes of ox-hide attached to the horns of their saddles. I sat 
 for an hour on horseback on a rocky hill while they hunted the 
 woods ; then I heard the deep voices of bulls, and a great 
 burst of cattle appeared, with hunters in pursuit, but the herd 
 vanished over a dip of the hill side, and the natives joined me. 
 By this time I wished myself safely at home, partly because my 
 unshod horse was not fit for galloping over lava and rough 
 ground, and I asked the men where I should stay to be out of 
 danger. The leader replied, " Oh, just keep close behind 
 me ! " I had thought of some safe view-point, not of galloping 
 on an unshod horse with a ruck of half maddened cattle, but it 
 was the safest plan, and there was no time to be lost, for as we 
 rode slowly down, we sighted the herd dodging across the 
 open to regain the shelter of the wood, and much on the 
 alert. 
 
 Putting our horses into a gallop we dashed down the hill 
 till we were close up with the chase ; then another tremendous 
 gallop, and a brief wild rush, the grass shaking with the surge 
 of cattle and horses. There was much whirling of tails and 
 tearing up of the earth — a lasso spun three or four times round 
 the head of the native who rode in front of me, and almost 
 simultaneously a fine red bullock lay prostrate on the earth, 
 nearly strangled, with his foreleg noosed to his throat. The 
 other natives dismounted, and put two lassoes round his horns, 
 slipping the first into the same position, and vaulted into their 
 saddles before he was on his legs. 
 
 He got up, shook himself, put his head down, and made a 
 blind rush, but his captors were too dexterous for him, and in 
 that and each succeeding rush he was foiled. As he tore 
 wildly from side to side, the natives dodged under the lasso, 
 slipping it over their heads, aqd swung themselves over their 
 saddles, hanging in one stirrup, to aid their trained horses to 
 steady themselves as the bullock tugged violently against them. 
 He was escorted thus for a mile, his strength failing with each 
 useless effort, his tongue hanging out, blood and foam dropping 
 from his mouth and nostrils, his flanks covered with foam and 
 sweat, till blind and staggering, he was led to a tree, where he 
 was at once stabbed, and two hours afterwards a part of him 
 
LETTER XXX.] "PRAYING TO DEATH." 2S3 
 
 was_ served at table. The natives were surprised that I 
 avoided seeing his death, as the native women greatly enjoy 
 such a spectacle. This mode of killing an animal while heated 
 and terrified, doubtless accounts for the dark colour and hard- 
 ness of Hawaiian beef. 
 
 Numbers of the natives are expert with the lasso, and besides 
 capturing with it wild and half-wild cattle, they catch horses 
 with it, and since I came here my host caught a sheep with it, 
 singling out the one he wished to kill, from the rest of the 
 galloping flock with an unerring aim. It takes a whole ox hide 
 cut into strips to make a good lasso. 
 
 One of my native friends tells me that a native man who 
 attended on me in one of my earHer expeditions has since 
 been " prayed to death." One often hears this phrase, and it 
 appears that 'the superstition which it represents has by no 
 means died out. There are persons who are believed to have 
 the lives of others in their hands, and their services are pro- 
 cured by offerings of white fowls, brown hogs, and awa, as 
 well as money, by any one who has a grudge against another. 
 Several other instances have been told me of persons who have 
 actually died under the influence of the terror and despair 
 produced by being told that the kahuna was " praying them to 
 death." These over eflicacious prayers are not addressed to 
 the true God, but to the ancient Hawaiian divinities. The 
 natives are very superstitious, and the late king, who was both 
 educated and intelligent, was much under the dominion of a 
 sorceress. 
 
 I have made the ascent of Hualalai twice from here, the first 
 time guided by my host and hostess, and the second rather 
 adventurously alone. Forests of koa, sandal-wood, and ohia, 
 with an undergrowth of raspberries and ferns, clothe its base, 
 the fragrant maile, and the graceful sarsaparilla vine, with its 
 clustered coral-coloured buds, nearly smother many of the 
 trees, and in several places the heavy ii forms the semblance 
 of triumphal arches over the track. This forest terminates 
 abruptly on the great volcanic wilderness, with its starved 
 growth of unsightly scrub. But Hualalai, though 10,000 feet 
 'in height, is covered with Pteris aquilina, maniane, coarse 
 bunch grass, and pukeav'e to its very summit, which is crowned 
 by a small, solitary, blossoming ohia. 
 
 For two hours before reaching the top, the way lies over 
 roundess flows and beds of lava, much disintegrated, and 
 almost entirely of the kind called pahoehoe. Countless pit- 
 
284 
 
 HA WAIL 
 
 [LETTER XXX. 
 
 craters extend over the whole mountain, all of them covered 
 outside, and a few inside, with scraggy vegetation. The edges 
 are often very ragged and picturesque. The depth varies from 
 
 Pit-craters on Hualalai. 
 
 300 to 700 feet, and the diameter from 700 to 1200. The 
 walls of some are of a smooth grey stone, the bottoms flat, 
 and very deep in sand, but others resemble the tufa cones of 
 Mauna K.ea. They are so crowded together in some places as 
 to be divided only by a ridge so narrow that two mules can 
 scarcely walk abreast upon it. The mountain was split by an 
 earthquake in 1868, and a great fissure, with much treacherous 
 ground about it, extends for some distance across it. It is 
 very striking from every point of view on this side, being a 
 complete wilderness of craters, and over 150 lateral cones have 
 been counted. 
 
 The object of my second ascent was to visit one of the 
 grandest of the summit craters, which we had not reached 
 previously owing to fog. This crater is bordered by a narrow 
 and very fantastic ridge of rock, in or on which there is a 
 mound abdut 6o feet high, formed of fragments of black, 
 orange, blue, red, and golden lava, with a cavity or blow-hole 
 in the centre, estimated by Brigham as having a diameter of 
 25 feet, and a depth of 1800. The interior is dark brown, 
 much grooved horizontally, and as smooth and regular as if 
 turned. There are no steam cracks or signs of heat anywhere. 
 Superb caves or lava-bubbles abound at a height of 6000 feet. 
 These are moist with ferns, and the drip from their roofs is 
 the water supply of this porous region. 
 
 Hualalai, owing to the vegetation sparsely sprinkled over it, 
 looks as if it had been quiet for ages, but it has only slept 
 
LETTER XXX.] LAST ERUPTION OF HUALALAI. 285 
 
 since 1801, when there was a tremendous eruption from it, 
 which flooded several villages, destroyed many plantations and 
 fishponds, filled up a deep bay 20 miles in extent, and formed 
 the present coast. The terrified inhabitants threw living hogs 
 into the stream, and tried to propitiate the anger of the gods 
 by more costly offerings, but without effect, till King Kame- 
 hameha, attended by a large retinue of priests and chiefs, cut 
 off some of his hair, which was considered sacred, and threw 
 it into the torrent, which in two days ceased to run. This 
 circumstance gave him a greatly increased ascendancy, from 
 his supposed influence with the deities of the volcanoes. 
 
 I have explored the country pretty thoroughly for many 
 miles round, but have not seen anything striking, except the 
 remains of an immense heiau in the centre of the desert table- 
 land, said to have been built in a day by the compulsory labour 
 of 25,000 people : a lonely white man who lives among the 
 lava, and believes he has discovered the secret of perpetual 
 motion : and the lava-flow from Mauna Loa, which reached 
 the sea 40 miles from its exit from the mountain. 
 
 I was riding through the brushwood with a native, and not 
 able to see two yards in any direction, when emerging from the 
 thick scrub, we came upon the torrent of 1859 within six feet 
 of us, a huge, straggling, coal-black river, broken up into 
 streams in our vicinity, but on the whole, presenting an 
 iridescent, uphill expanse a mile wide. We had reached one 
 of the divergent streams to which it had been said after its 
 downward course of 9000 feet, " Hitherto shalt thou come and 
 no further," while the main body had pursued its course to the 
 ocean. Whatever force impelled it had ceased to act, and the 
 last towering wave of fire had halted just there, and lies a 
 black, arrested surge 10 feet high, with tender ferns at its feet, 
 and a scarcely singed ohia bending over it. The flow, so far 
 as we scrambled up it, is heaped in great surges of a fierce 
 black, fiercely reflecting the torrid sun, cracked, and stained 
 yellow and white, and its broad glistening surface forms an 
 awful pathway to the dome-like crest of Mauna Loa, now 
 throbbing with internal fires, and crowned with a white smoke 
 wreath, that betokens the action of the same forces which pro- 
 duced this gigantic inundation. Close to us the main river 
 had parted above, and united below a small maman'e tree with 
 bracken under its shadow, and there are several oases of the 
 same kind. 
 
 I have twice been down to the larger world of the woolshed, 
 
286 HA WAIT. [letter xxx. 
 
 when tired of strips of dried mutton and my own society. The 
 hospitality there is as great as the accommodation is small. 
 The first time, I slept on the floor of the shed with some native 
 women who were up there, and was kept awake all night by 
 the magnificence of the light on the volcano. The second 
 time, several of us slept in a small, dark grass-wigwa'm, only 
 intended as a temporary shelter, the lowliest dwelling in every 
 sense of the word that I ever occupied. That evening was the 
 finest I have seen on the islands ; there was a less abrupt 
 transition from day to night, and the three great mountains and 
 the desert were etherealised and glorified by a lingering rose 
 and violet light. When darkness came on, our great camp fire 
 was hardly redder than the glare from the volcano, and its 
 leaping flames illuminated as motley a group as you would wish 
 to see ; the native shearers, who, alter shearing eighty sheep 
 each in a day, washed, and changed their clothes before eating ; 
 a negro goat-herd with a native wife and swarthy children, two 
 native women, my host and myself, all engaged in the rough 
 cooking befitting the region, toasting strips of jerked mutton on 
 sticks, broiling wild bullock on the coals, baking kalo under 
 ground, and rolls in a rough stone oven, and all speaking that 
 base mixture of English and Hawaiian which is current coin 
 here. The meal was not less rude than the cookery. We ate 
 it on the floor of the wigwam, with an old tin, with some fat in 
 it, for a lamp, and a bit of rope for a wick, which kept tumbling 
 into the fat and leaving us in darkness. 
 
 The next day I came up here alone, driving a pack-horse, 
 and with a hind-quarter of sheep tied to my saddle. It is really 
 difficult to find the way over this desert, though I have been 
 several times across. When a breeze ripples the sand between 
 the lava hummocks, the foot-prints are obliterated, and there 
 are few landmarks except the " ox bone " and the small ohia." 
 It is a strange life up here on the mountain side; but I like it, 
 and never yearn after civilization. The only drawback is my 
 ignorance of the language, which not only places me sometimes 
 in grotesque difficulties, but deprives me of much interest. I 
 don't know what day it is, or how long I have been here, and 
 quite understand how possible it would be to fall into an indo- 
 lent and aimless life, in which time is of no account. 
 
 The Rectory, Kona, August 1st. 
 I left Hualalai yesterday morning, and dined with my kind 
 host and hostess in the wigwam. It was the last taste of the 
 
LETTER XXX.] THE " HONOLULU MISSION:' 287 
 
 wild Hawaiian life I have learned to love so well, the last meal 
 on a mat, the last exercise of skill in eating " two-fingered " 
 foi. I took leave gratefully of those who had been so truly 
 kind to me, and with the friendly aloha from kindly lips in my 
 ears, regretfully left the purple desert in which I have lived so 
 serenely, and plunged into the forest gloom. Half way down, 
 I met a string of my native acquaintances, who, as the cour- 
 teous custom is, threw over me Ids of maile and roses, and since 
 I arrived here, others have called to wish me good-bye, bring- 
 ing presents of figs, cocoa-nuts and bananas. 
 
 This is one of the stations of the " Honolulu Mission," and 
 Mr. Davies, the clergyman, has, besides Sunday and daily ser- 
 vices, a day-school for boys and girls. The Sunday attendance 
 at church, so far as I have seen, consists of three adults, though 
 the white population within four miles is considerable, and at 
 another station on Maui, the congregation was composed solely 
 of the family of a planter. Among the whites who have sunk 
 into the mire of an indolent and godless, if not an openly im- 
 moral life, there is an undoubted field for Evangelistic effort ; but 
 it is very doubtful, I think, whether this class can be reached by 
 services which appeal to higher culture and instincts than it 
 possesses. 
 
 Kona looks unutterably beautiful, a languid dream of all fair 
 things. Yet truly my heart warms to nothing so much as to a 
 row of fat, English cabbages which grow in the rectory garden, 
 with a complacent, self-asserting John Bullism about them. It 
 is best to leave the islands now. I love them better every day, 
 and dreams of Fatherland are growing fainter in this perfumed 
 air and under this glittering sky. A little longer, and I too 
 should say, like all who have made their homes here under the 
 deep banana shade, — • 
 
 " We will return no more, 
 our island home 
 Is far beyond the wave, we will no longer roam." 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LETTER XXXI. 
 
 The Climate of the Islands — Their Advantages — Their Drawbacks — 
 Gossip — Nuhou — Evils of an Exotic Civilization — Aloha nui to 
 Hawaii-nei. 
 
 Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu, 
 August 6th. 
 
 My fate is lying at the wharf in the shape of the Pacific Mail 
 Steamer Costa Rica, and soon to me Hawaii-nei will be but a 
 dream, " Summer Isles of Eden ! " My heart warms towards 
 them as I leave them, for they have been more like home than 
 any part of the world since I left England. The moonlight is 
 trickling through misty algarobas, and feathery tamarinds and 
 palms, and shines on glossy leaves of breadfruit and citron ; a 
 cool breeze brings in at my open doors the perfumed air, 
 and the soft murmur of the restful sea, and this beautiful Hono- 
 lulu, whose lights are twinkling through the purple night, is at 
 last, as it was at first. Paradise in the Pacific, a blossom of a 
 summer sea. 
 
 I shall be in the Rocky Mountains before you receive my 
 hastily-written reply to your proposal to come out here for a 
 year, but I will add a few reasons against it, in addition to the 
 one which I gave regarding the benefit which I now hope to 
 derive from a change to a more stimulating climate. The 
 strongest of all is, that if we were to stay here for a year, we 
 should just sit down " between the sun and moon upon the 
 shore," and forget " our island home," and be content to fall 
 " asleep in a half dream," and " return no more ! " 
 
 Of course you will have gathered from my letters that there 
 are very many advantages here. Indeed, the mosquitos of the 
 leeward coast, to whose attacks one becomes inured in a few 
 months, are the only physical drawback. The open-air life is 
 most conducive to health, and the climate is absolutely perfect, 
 owing to its equability and purity. Whether the steady heat of 
 
LETTER XXXI.] GOSSIPFING TENDENCIES. 289 
 
 Honolulu, the languid airs of Hilo, the balmy breezes of Onomea, 
 the cool bluster of Waimea, or the odorous stillness of Kona, 
 it_ is always the same. The grim gloom of our anomalous 
 winters, the harsh malignant winds of our springs, and the 
 dismal rains and overpowering heats of our summers, have no 
 counterpart in the endless spring-time of Hawaii. 
 
 Existence here is unclogged and easy, a small income goes a 
 long way, and the simplicity, refinement, kindliness, and soci- 
 ability of the foreign residents, render society very pleasant. 
 The life here is truer, simpler, and happier than ours. The 
 relation between the foreign and native population is a kindly 
 and happy one, and the natives, in spite of their faults, are a 
 most friendly and pleasant people to live among. With a know- 
 ledge of their easily-acquired language, they would be a cease- 
 less source of interest, and every white resident can have the 
 satisfaction of helping them in their frequent distresses and 
 illnesses. 
 
 The sense of security is a very special charm, and one enjoys 
 it as well in lonely native houses, and solitary days and nights 
 of travelling, as in the foreign homes, which are never locked 
 throughout the year. There are no burglarious instincts to dread, 
 and there is no such thing as " a broken sleep of fear beneath 
 the stars." The person and property of a white man are every- 
 where secure, and a white woman is sure of unvarying respect 
 and kindness. 
 
 There are no inevitable hardships. The necessaries, and 
 even the luxuries of civilization can be obtained everywhere, 
 and postal communication with America is regular and rapid. 
 
 When I began this letter, a long procession of counter- 
 balancing disadvantages passed through my mind, but they be- 
 come "beautifully less" as I set them down in black and 
 white. If I put gossip first, it is because I seriously think that 
 it is the canker of the foreign society on the islands. Its 
 extent and universality are grotesque and amusing to a stranger, 
 but to live in it, and share in it, and learn to enjoy it, would be 
 both lowering and hurtful, and you can hardly be long here 
 without being drawn into its vortex. By^^i-«> I don't mean 
 scandal or malignant misrepresentations, or reports of petty 
 strifes, intrigues, and jealousies, such as are common in all chques. 
 and communities, but nuhou, mere tattle, the perpetual talking 
 about people, and the picking to tatters of every item of per- 
 sonal detail, whether gathered from fact or imagmation. 
 
 A great deal of this is certainly harmless, and in some 
 
2go li'A WAIT. [letter xxxi. 
 
 measure arises from the intimate friendly relations which exist 
 between the scattered families, but over-indulgence in it de- 
 stroys the privacy of individual existeiice, and is deteriorating 
 in more ways than one. From the north of Kauai to the south 
 of Hawaii, everybody knows every other body's affairs, income, 
 expenditure, sales, purchases, debts, furniture, clothitig, comings, 
 goings, borrowings, lendings, letters, correspondents, and every 
 thing else : and when there is nothing new to relate on any one 
 of these prolific subjects, supposed intentions afford abun- 
 dant matter for speculation. All gossip is focussed here, 
 being imported from every other district, and re-exported, with 
 additions and embellishments, by every inter-island mail. The 
 ingenuity with which nuhou is circulated is worthy of a better 
 cause. 
 
 Some disadvantages arise from the presence on the islands of 
 heterogeneous and ill-assorted nationalities. The Americans, of 
 course, predominate, and even those who are Hawaiian born, 
 have, as elsewhere, a strongly national feeling. The far smaller 
 English community hangs together in a somewhat cliquish 
 fashion, and possibly cherishes a latent grudge against the 
 Americans for their paramount influence in island affairs. The 
 German residents, as everywhere, are cliquish too. Then, since 
 the establishment of the Honolulu Mission, church feeling has 
 run rather high, and here, as elsewhere, has a socially decisive 
 tendency. Then there are drink and anti-drink, pro and anti- 
 missionary, and pro and anti-reciprocity-treaty parties, and 
 various other local naggings of no interest to you. 
 
 The civilization is exotic, and owing to various circum- 
 stances, the government and constitution are too experimental 
 and provisional in their nature, and possess too few elements of 
 permanence to engross the profound interest of the foreign 
 residents, although for reasons of policy they are well inclined 
 to sustain a barbaric throne. In spite of a king and court, 
 and titles and officials without number, and uniforms stiff with 
 gold lace, and Royal dinner parties with menus printed on white 
 silk, Americans, Republicans in feeling, really " run " the go- 
 vernment, and in state affairs there is a taint of that combina- 
 tion of obsequious and flippant vulgarity, which none deplore 
 more deeply than the best among the Americans themselves. 
 
 It is a decided misfortune to a community to be divided in 
 its national leanings, and to have no great fusing interests 
 within or without itself, such as those which knit vigorous Vic- 
 toria to the mother country, or distant Oregon to the heart of 
 
LETTER XXXI.] SMALL CRITICISMS. 291 
 
 the Republic at Washington. Except sugar and dollars, one 
 rarely hears any subject spoken about with general interest. 
 The downfall of an administration in England, or any import- 
 ant piece of national legislation, arouses almost no interest in 
 American society here, and the English are ostentatiously 
 apathetic regarding any piece of inteUigence specially absorbing 
 to Americans. The papers pick up every piece of gossip which 
 drifts about the islands, and snarl with much wordiness over 
 local matters, and in the absence of a telegraph one hardly but 
 feels the beat of the pulses of the larger world. Those intel- 
 lectual movements of the West which might provoke discus- 
 sion and conversation are not cordially entered into, partly 
 owing to the difference in theological beliefs, and partly from 
 an indolence born of the climate, and the lack of mental 
 stimulus. 
 
 After all, the gossip and the absence of large interests shared 
 in common, are the only specialities which can be alleged 
 against Hawaii, and I have never seen people among whom I 
 should better like to live. The ladies are most charming, 
 essentially womanly, and fulfil all domestic and social duties 
 in a way worthy of imitation everjrwhere. The kindness and 
 hospitality, too, are unbounded, and these cover " a multitude 
 of sins." 
 
 There are very few strangers here now. It is the " dead 
 season." I have met with none except Mr. Nordhoff, who is 
 writing on the islands for Harper's Monthly, and his charming 
 wife and children. She is a most expert horsewoman, and has 
 adopted the Mexican saddle even in Honolulu, where few 
 foreign ladies ride " cavaUer fashion." 
 
 My friends all urge me to write on Hawaii, on the ground 
 that I have seen the islands and lived the island life so 
 thoroughly; but possibly they expect more indiscriminate 
 praise than I could conscientiously bestow ! 
 
 Honolulu is in the midst of the epidemic of letter writing, 
 which sets in on the arrival of the steamer froni " the coast," 
 and people walk and drive as if they really had business on 
 hand : and the farewell visits to be made and received, the 
 pleasant presence of Mr. Thompson, and Mr. and Mrs. Seve- 
 rance, of Hilo, and the hasty doing of things which have been 
 left to the last, make me a sharer in the spasmodic bustle, 
 which, were it permanent, would metamorphose this dreamy, 
 bowery, tropical capital. The undeserved and unexpected kind- 
 ness shown me here, as everywhere on these islands, renders 
 
292 ffA WAIL [letter XXXI. 
 
 my last impressions even more delightful than my first. The 
 people are as genial as their own sunny skies, and in more 
 frigid regions I shall never sigh for the last without longing for 
 the first 
 
 S. S. Costa Eica, August "jth. 
 
 We sailed for San Francisco early this afternoon. Every- 
 thing looked the same as when I landed in January, except 
 that many of the then strange faces among the radiant crowd 
 are now the faces of friends, that I know nearly everyone by 
 sight, and that the pathos of farewell blended with every look 
 and word. The air still rang with laughter and alohas, and 
 the rippling music of the Hawaiian tongue ; bananas and 
 pineapples were still piled in fragrant heaps; the drifts of 
 surf rolled in, as then, over the barrier reef, canoes with 
 outriggers still poised themselves on the blue water; the 
 coral divers still plied their graceful trade, and the lazy 
 ripples still flashed in light along the palm-fringed shore. 
 The head-ropes were let go, we steamed through the violet 
 channel into the broad Pacific, Lunalilo, who came out so far 
 with Chief Justice Allen, returned to the shore, and when 
 his kindly aloha was spoken, the last link with the islands 
 was severed, and half an hour later Honolulu was out of 
 sight 
 
 . . . . The breeze is freshening, and the Cosfa RiccCs 
 head lies nearly due north. The sun is sinking, and on the 
 far horizon the summit peaks of Oahu gleam like amethysts on 
 a golden sea. Farewell for ever, my bright tropic dream ! 
 Aloha nui to Hawaii-nei ! 
 
 I. L. B. 
 
LEPROSY AND THE LEPER 
 SETTLEMENT ON MOLOKAL 
 
 In 1865, the Hawaiian Legislature, recognizing the disas- 
 trous fact that leprosy is at once contagious and incurable, 
 passed an act to prevent its spread, and eventually the Board 
 of Health established a leper settlement on the island of 
 Molokai for the isolation of lepers. In carrying out the painful 
 task of weeding out and exiling the sufferers, the officials em- 
 ployed met with unusual difficulties ; and the general foreign 
 community was not itself aware of the importance of making 
 an attempt to " stamp out " the disease, until the beginning of 
 Lunalilo's reign, when the apparently rapid spread of leprosy, 
 and sundry rumours that others than natives were affected by 
 it, excited general alarm, and not unreasonably, for medical 
 science, after protracted investigation, knows less of leprosy 
 than of cholera. Nor are medical men wholly agreed as to 
 the manner in which infection is communicated ; and, as the 
 white residents on the islands associate very freely and inti- 
 mately with the natives, eating /« out of their calabashes, and 
 sleeping in their houses and on their mats, there was just cause 
 for uneasiness. 
 
 The natives themselves have been, and still are, perfectly 
 reckless about the risk of contagion, and although the family 
 instinct among them is singularly weak, the gregarious or social 
 instinct is singularly strong, and it has been found impossible 
 to induce them to give up smoking the pipes, wearing the 
 clothes, and sleeping on the mats of lepers, which three things 
 are universally regarded by medical men as undoubted sources 
 of infection. At the beginning of 1873, it was estimated that 
 nearly 400 lepers were scattered up and down the islands, 
 living among their families and friends, and the healthy asso- 
 
294 HAWAII. 
 
 dated with them in complete apathy or fatahsm. However 
 bloated the face and glazed the eyes, or however swollen 
 or decayed the limbs were, the persons so afflicted appeared 
 neither to scare nor disgust their friends, and, therefore, 
 Hawaii has absolutely needed the coercive segregation of 
 these living foci of disease. When the search for lepers was 
 made, the natives hid their friends away under mats, and in 
 forests and caves, till the peril of separation was over, and if 
 they sought medical advice, they rejected foreign educated aid 
 in favour of the highly paid services of Chinese and native 
 quacks, who professed to work a cure by means of loathsome 
 ointments and decoctions, and abominable broths worthy of 
 the witches' cauldron. 
 
 However, as the year passed on, lepers were " informed 
 against," and it became the painful duty of the sheriffs of the 
 islands, on the statement of a doctor that any individual was 
 truly a leper, to commit him for life to Molokai. Some, whose 
 swollen faces and glassy, goggle eyes left no room for hope of 
 escape, gave themselves up ; and a few, who, like Mr. Rags- 
 dale, might have remained among their fellows almost without 
 suspicion, surrendered themselves in a way which reflects much 
 credit upon them. Mr. Park, the Marshal, and Mr. Wilder, 
 of the Board of Health, went round the islands repeatedly in 
 the Kilauea, and performed the painful duty of collecting the 
 victims, with true sympathy and kindness. The woe of those 
 who were taken, the dismal waihngs of those who were 
 left, and the agonised partings, when friends and relatives 
 clung to the swollen limbs and kissed the glistering, bloated 
 faces of those who were exiled from them for ever, I shall 
 never forget. 
 
 There were no individual distinctions made among the suf- 
 ferers. Queen Emma's cousin, a man of property, and Mr. 
 Ragsdale, the most influential lawyer among the half-whites, 
 shared the same doom as poor Upa, the volcano guide, and 
 stricken Chinamen and labourers from the plantations. Before 
 the search slackened, between three and four hundred men, 
 women, and children were gathered out from among their 
 families, and placed on Molokai. 
 
 Between 1866 and April 1874, eleven hundred and forty- 
 five lepers, five hundred and sixty of whom were sent from 
 Kahili in the spring of 1872, have arrived on Molokai, of 
 which number four hundred and forty-two have died, the ma- 
 jority of the deaths having occurred since the beginning of 
 
THE ISLAND OF EXILE. 295 
 
 Lunalilo's reign, when the work of segregation was undertaken 
 in earnest. At the present time the number on the island is 
 703, including 22 children. These unfortunates are neces- 
 sarily pauperised, and the small Hawaiian kingdom finds itself 
 much burdened by their support.* It is not surprising that 
 officials called upon to meet this sad emergency are assailed in 
 all quarters of the globe by sentimental criticisms and misstate- 
 ments regarding the provision made for the lepers on Molokai. 
 Most of these are unfounded, and the members of the Board 
 of Health deserve great credit both for their humanity and for 
 their prompt and careful attention to the complaints made by 
 the sufferers. 
 
 At present the two obvious blots on the system are, the 
 insufficient house accommodation, involving a herding together 
 which is repulsive to foreign, though not to native, ideas ; and 
 the absence of a resident physician to prescribe for the ail- 
 ments from which leprosy is no exemption. Molokai, the 
 island of exile, is Molokai aina J>ali, " the land of precipices," 
 in the old native 7neles, and its walls of rock rise perpendicu- 
 larly from the sea to a height varying from 1000 to 2500 feet, 
 in extreme grandeur and picturesqueness, and are slashed, as 
 on Hawaii, by gulches opening out on natural lawns on the sea 
 level. The place chosen for the centralization and segre- 
 gation of leprosy is a most singular plain of about 20,000 
 acres, hemmed in between the sea and a precipice 2000 
 feet high, passable only where a zigzag bridle track swings 
 over its face, so narrow and difficult that it has been found 
 impossible to get cattle down over it, so that the leper 
 settlement below has depended for its supplies of fresh meat 
 upon vessels. The settlement is accessible also by a very 
 difficult landing at Kalaupapa on the windward side of 
 Molokai. 
 
 Three miles inland from Kalaupapa is the leper village of 
 Kalawao, which may safely be pronounced one of the most 
 horrible spots on all the ea,rth ; a home of hideous disease and 
 slow coming death, with which science in despair has ceased 
 to grapple ; a community of doomed beings, socially dead, 
 " whose only business is to perish ; " wifeless husbands, hus- 
 bandless wives, children without parents, and parents without 
 children ; men and women who have " no more a portion for 
 ever in anything that is done under the sun," condemned to 
 
 * In 1874 the expense of the leper establishment was |SS,ooo. 
 
296 HA WAIT. 
 
 ■watch the repulsive steps by which each of their doomed fellows 
 goes down to a loathsome death, knowing that by the same 
 they too must pass. 
 
 A small stone church near the landing, and another at 
 Kalawao, tell of the extraordinary devotion of a Catholic priest, 
 who, with every prospect of advancement in his Church, and 
 with youth, culture, and refinement to hold him back from the 
 sacrifice, is in this hideous valley, a self-exiled man, for Christ's 
 sake. It was singular to hear the burst of spontaneous admira- 
 tion which his act elicited. No unworthy motives were 
 suggested, all envious speech was hushed ; it was almost for- 
 gotten by the most rigid Protestants that Father Damiens, who 
 has literally followed the example of Christ by " laying down 
 his life for the brethren," is a Romish priest, and an intuition, 
 higher than all reasoning, hastened to number him with " the 
 noble army of martyrs." 
 
 In Kalawao are placed not only the greater number of the 
 lepers, but the hospital buildings. Most of the victims are of 
 the poorer classes and live in brown huts ; but two of rank, 
 Mrs. Napela and the Hon. P. Y. Kaeo, Queen Emma's cousin, 
 have neat wooden cottages on the way from the landing, with 
 every comfort which their means can provide for them. The 
 hospital buildings are about twelve in number, well and airily 
 situated on a height ; they are built of wood thoroughly white- 
 washed, and are enclosed by a fence. Although it is hoped 
 that a leper hospital is not to be a permanent institution of the 
 kingdom, the soft green grass of the enclosure has been 
 liberally planted with algaroba trees, which in a year or two 
 will form a goodly shade, and water has been brought in from 
 a distance at considerable expense, so that an abundant supply 
 is always at hand. The lepers are dying fast, and the number 
 of advanced cases in the hospital averages forty. In the 
 centre of the hospital square there are the office buildings, 
 including the dispensary, which is well supplied with medicines, 
 so that in the absence of a doctor, common ailments may be 
 treated by an intelligent English leper. The superintendent's 
 office, where the accounts and statistics of the settlement are 
 kept, and where the leper governor holds his leper court, and 
 the post-office, are also within the enclosure ; but the true 
 governor and law-giver is Death. 
 
 When Mr. Ragsdale left Hilo as a leper, the course he was 
 likely to take on Molokai could not be accurately forecasted ; 
 and it was felt that the presence in the leper community of a 
 
DIET AND INSTRUCTION. 297 
 
 man of his gift of eloquence and influence might either be an 
 invaluable assistance to the government, or else a serious em- 
 barrassment. In every position he had hitherto occupied, he 
 had acquired and retained a remarkable notoriety ; and no 
 stranger could visit the islands without hearing of poor " Bill 
 Ragsdale's " gifts, and the grievous failings by which they were 
 accompanied. 
 
 Hitherto the hopes of his well wishers have been fulfilled, 
 and the government has found in him a most energetic as well 
 as prudent agent. "It is better to be first in Britain than 
 second in Rome ;" and probably this unfortunate man, super- 
 intendent of the leper settlement, and popularly known as 
 " Governor Ragsdale," has found a nobler scope for his ambi- 
 tion among his doomed brethren than in any previous position. 
 His remarkable power of influencing his countrymen is at 
 present used for their well being ; and though his authority is 
 practically almost absolute, owing to the isolation of the com- 
 munity, and its position almost outside the operation of law, 
 he has hitherto used it with good faith and moderation. He 
 is nominally assisted in his duties by a committee of twenty 
 chosen from among the lepers themselves ; but from his supe- 
 rior education and native mental ascendancy, all immediate 
 matters in the settlement are decided by his judgment alone. 
 
 The rations of food are ample and of good quality, and not- 
 withstanding the increase in the number of lepers, and the 
 difiiculty of communication, there has not been any authenti- 
 cated case of want. Each leper receives weekly 2 1 lbs. of 
 paiai, and from 5 to 6 of beef, and when these fail to be 
 landed, 9 lbs. of rice, i lb. of sugar, and 4 lbs. of salmon. 
 Soap and clothing are also supplied ; but, for all beyond these 
 necessaries, the lepers are dependent on their own industry, if 
 they are able to exercise it, and the kindness of their friends. 
 Coffee, tobacco, pipes, extra clothing, knives, toys, books, pic- 
 tures, working implements and materials, have all been pos- 
 sessed by them in happier days ; and though packages of such 
 things have been sent by the charitable for distribution by 
 Father Damiens, it is not possible for island benevolence fully 
 to meet an emergency and needs so disproportionate to the 
 population and resources of the kingdom. Besides the two 
 Catholic churches, there are a Protestant chapel, with a pastor, 
 himself a leper, who is a regularly ordained minister of the 
 Hawaiian Board, and two school-houses, where the twenty-two 
 children of the settlement receive instruction in Hawaiian from 
 
apS I/A WAIL 
 
 a leper teacher. There is a store, too, where those who are 
 assisted by their friends can purchase small luxuries, which are 
 sold at just such an advance on cost as is sufficient to clear 
 the expense of freight. The taste for ornament has not died 
 out in either sex, and women are to be seen in Kalawao, 
 hideous and bloated beyond description, decorated with leis 
 of flowers, and looking for admiration out of their glazed and 
 goggle eyes. 
 
 King Kalakaua and Queen Kapiolani have paid a visit to 
 the settlement, and were received with hearty alohas, and the 
 music of a leper band. The ki'ng made a short address to the 
 lepers, the substance of which was " that his heart was grieved 
 with the necessity which had separated these, his subjects, 
 from their homes and families, a necessity which they them- 
 selves recognised and acquiesced in, and it should be the 
 earnest desire of himself and his government to render their 
 condition in exile as comfortable as possible." While he spoke, 
 though it is supposed that a merciful apathy attends upon 
 leprosy, his hideous audience showed signs of deep feeling, and 
 many shed tears at his thoughtfulness in coming to visit those, 
 who, to use their own touching expression, were " already in 
 the grave." 
 
 The account which follows is from the pen of a gentleman 
 who accompanied the king, and visited the hospital on the 
 same occasion, in company with two members of the Board of 
 Health. 
 
 " As our party stepped on shore, we found the lepers assem- 
 bled to the number of two or three hundred — there are 697 all 
 told in the settlement — for they had heard in advance of our 
 coming, and our ears were greeted with the sound of lively 
 music. This proceeded from the 'band,' consisting of a drum, 
 a fife, and two flutes, rather skilfully played upon by four 
 young lads, whose visages were horribly marked and dis- 
 figured with leprosy. The sprighdy airs with which these poor 
 creatures welcomed the arrival of the party, sounded strangely 
 incongruous and out of place, and grated harshly upon our 
 feelings. And then as we proceeded up the beach, and the 
 crowd .gathered about us, eager and anxious for a recognition 
 or a kind word of greeting — oh, the repulsive and sickening 
 libels and distorted caricatures of the human face divine upon 
 which we looked ! And as they evidently read the ill-con- 
 cealed aversion in our countenances, they withdrew the half- 
 proffered hand, and slunk back with hanging heads. They 
 
A VISIT TO TUB lEPERS. 299 
 
 felt again that they were lepers, the outcasts of society, and 
 must not contaminate us with their touch. A few cheerful 
 words of inquiry from the physician, Dr. Troiisseau, addressed 
 to individuals as to their particular cases, broke the embar- 
 rassment of this first meeting, and soon the crowd were chatting 
 and laughing just like any other crowd of thoughtless Hawaiians, 
 and with but few exceptions, these unfortunate exiles showed 
 no signs of the settled melancholy that would naturally be 
 looked for from people so hopelessly situated. Very happy 
 were they when spoken to, and quite ready to answer any 
 questions. We saw numbers whom we had known in years 
 past, and who, having disappeared, we had thought dead. 
 One we had known as a Representative, and a very intelligent 
 one, too, in the Legislature of 1868. On greeting himas an 
 old-time acquaintance, he observed, ' Yes, we meet again^in 
 this living grave ! ' He is a man of no little consideration 
 among the people, being entrusted by the Board of Health 
 with the care of the store which is kept here for the sale of 
 such goods as the people require. All do not appear to be 
 lepers who are leprous. We saw numbers who might pass 
 along our streets any day without being suspected of the taint. 
 They had it, however, in one way or another. Sometimes on 
 the extremities only, eating away the flesh and rotting the 
 bones of the hands or feet ; and sometimes only appearmg m 
 black and indurated spots on the skin, noticed only on a 
 somewhat close examination. This last sort is said to be the 
 worst, as being most surely fatal and easiest transmitted. We 
 saw women who had the disease in this stage, walking about, 
 whom it was difficult to believe were lepers. 
 
 " If our sensibilities were shocked at the sight of the crowd 
 of lepers we had met at the beach, walking about in physical 
 strength and activity, how shall we describe our sensations m 
 looking upon these loathsome creatures m the hospital, m 
 whom it was indeed hard to recognise anything human ? ihe 
 rooms were cleanly kept and well ventilated, but the atmo- 
 sphere within was pervaded with the sickening odour ot the 
 grave. At each end, squatted or lying prone on their respec- 
 tive mats or mattresses, were the yet breathing corpses of 
 lepers in the last stages of various forms of the disease, who 
 glanced inquisitively at us for a moment out of their ghoul-hke 
 eyes-those who were not already beyond seemg-and then 
 withdrew within their dreadful selves. Was there ever a more 
 pitiful sight ? 
 
300 HA WAII. 
 
 "In one room we saw a sight that will ever remain fixed 
 indelibly on the tablets of memory. A little blue-eyed, flaxen- 
 haired child, apparently three or four years old, a half-caste, 
 that looked up at us with an expression of timorous longing to 
 be caressed and loved ; but alas, in its glassy eyes and trans- 
 parent cheeks were the unmistakable signs of the curse — the 
 sin of the parents visited upon the child ! 
 
 " In another room was one — a mass of rotting flesh, with 
 but litde semblance of humanity remaining — who was dying, and 
 whose breath came hurried and obstructed. A few hours at 
 most, and his troubles would be over, and his happy release 
 arrive. There had been fourteen deaths in the settlement 
 during the previous fortnight. On the day of our visit there 
 were fifty-eight inmates of the hospital." 
 
 Though the lifting of the veil of mystery which hangs over 
 the death valley of Molokai discloses some of the most woeful 
 features of the curse, it is a relief to know the worst, and that 
 the poor leprous outcasts in their "living grave" are not out- 
 side the pale of humanity and a judicious philanthropy. All 
 that can be done for them is to encourage their remaining 
 capacities for industry, and to smooth, as far as is possible, the 
 journey of death. The Hawaiian Government is doing its 
 best to " stamp out" the disease, and to provide for the com- 
 fort of those who are isolated ; and, with the limited means at 
 its disposal, has acted with an efficiency and humanity worthy 
 of the foremost of civilised countries. 
 
A CHAPTER ON HAWAIIAN AFFAIRS. 
 
 A FEW facts concerning the Hawaiian islands may serve to 
 supplement the deficiencies of the previous letters. The group 
 is an hereditary and constitutional monarchy. There is a 
 House of Nobles, numbering twenty members, appointed by 
 the Crown. The House of Representatives consists of not 
 less than twenty-four, or more than forty members elected 
 biennially. The Legislature fixes the number, and apportions 
 the same. The Houses sit together, and constitute the Legis- 
 lative Assembly. The property qualification for a representa- 
 tive is, real estate worth $500, or an annual income of $250 
 from property, and that for an elector is an annual income of 
 jSjs. The Legislators are paid, and the expense of a session 
 is about $15,000. There are three cabinet ministers appointed 
 by the Crown, of the Interior, Finance, and Foreign Affairs 
 respectively, and an Attorney-General, who may be regarded 
 as a minister of justice. There is a Supreme Court with a 
 Chief Justice and two associate justices, and there are circuit 
 and district judges on all the larger islands, as well as sheriffs, 
 prisons, and police. There is a standing army of sixty men, 
 mainly for the purposes of guard duty, and rendering assistance 
 to the police. 
 
 The question of "how to make ends meet" sorely exercises 
 the little kingdom. All sorts of improvements involving a 
 largely increased outlay are continually urged, while at the 
 same time the burden of taxation presses increasingly heavily, 
 and there is a constant clamour for the removal of some of the 
 most lucrative imposts. Indeed, the Hawaiian dog, with his 
 tax and his " tag," is seldom out of the Legislative Assembly. 
 
 What may be termed the/er capita taxes are, an annual poll 
 tax of one dollar levied on each male inhabitant between the 
 
302 HA WAIT. 
 
 ages of seventeen and sixty, an annual road tax of two dollars 
 upon all persons between seventeen and fifty, and an annual 
 school tax of two dollars upon all persons between twenty-one 
 and sixty. There is a direct tax upon property of J per cent, 
 upon its valuation, and specific taxes of a dollar on every horse 
 above two years old, and a dollar and a half on each dog. Of 
 the $206,000 raised by internal taxes during the last biennial 
 period, the horses paid $50,000, the mules $6000, and the dogs 
 $19,000 ! 
 
 The indirect taxation in the shape of customs duties 
 amounted to $350,000 in the same period. The poor Hawaiian 
 does not know the blessing of a "Free Breakfast Table." 
 
 The islands are large importers. The value of imported 
 goods was $1,184,054 in 1875, on which the Hawaiian Trea- 
 sury received $213,285 as customs duties. Forty-seven 
 thousand dollars' worth of ale, porter, cider, and light wines, 
 and forty-nine thousand dollars' worth of spirits, show that the 
 foreign population of 6000 is more than sufliciently bibulous. 
 The Chinamen, about 2000 in number, are, or ought to be, 
 responsible for $22,000 worth of opium ; and the $42,000 
 worth of tobacco and cigars is doubtless distributed pretty 
 equally over all the nationalities. Twenty-one thousand gallons 
 of spirits were taken out of bond for consumption in 1875. 
 The licenses to sell spirits brought $18,000 into the Treasury 
 in the last biennial period, but those for the sale of awa and 
 opium brought in $55,000 during the same time. These 
 licenses are confined to Honolulu. 
 
 There are two interesting items of customs receipts, a sum 
 of $924, the proceeds of 2. per capita tax of two dollars levied 
 on passengers landing on the islands, for the support of the 
 Queen's Hospital, and a sum of $1477, the proceeds of a tax 
 levied on seamen for the support of the Marine Hospital. 
 There is a sum of $700 for passports, as no Hawaiian or 
 stranger can leave the kingdom without an official permit. 
 
 There are 5 1 vessels registered under the Hawaiian flag, of 
 which 35 are coasters, and 16 engaged in foreign freighting and 
 whaling. 
 
 The value of domestic exports, in 1875, 'w^-s $1,774,082. 
 Among these bananas, pineapples, pulu, cocoanuts, oranges, 
 limes, sandal-wood, tamarinds, betel leaves, sharks' fins, paiai, 
 whale oil, sperm oil, cocoanut oil, and whalebone. Among 
 other commodities there was exported, of coffee 165,000 lbs., 
 of fungus 45,000 lbs., of peanuts 21,000 lbs., of rice 1,573,000 
 
HAWAIIAN EXPENDITURE. 303 
 
 Ibs.,ofpadcly5s6,ooolbs.,of hides 22,000 packages, of goat-skins 
 60,000, of horns 13,000, and of tallow 8si,ooolbs. The im- 
 ports, in 1875, amounted to $1,184,054. 
 
 The expense of " keeping things going " on the islands for 
 the two years ending March ist, 1874, amounted to $1,193,276, 
 but this included the funeral expenses of two kings, as well as 
 of two extra sessions of tlie Legislature, which amounted to 
 142,000. The decrease in the revenue for the same period 
 amounted to $45,°oo. The items of Hawaiian expenditure 
 were as follows : — 
 
 For Civil List ...... 
 
 ,, Permanent Settlements, Queen Emma . 
 
 ,, Legislature and Privy Council . 
 
 ,, Extra Legislative Expenses . 
 
 ,, Department of the Judiciary 
 
 ,, „ of Foreign Affairs and War 
 
 „ , , of the Interior 
 
 , , , , of Finance 
 
 ,, ,, of the Attorney-General. 
 
 ,, Bureau of Public Instruction 
 
 ,, Miscellaneous Expenditure 
 The balance on hand in the Treasury, March 
 1874 
 
 31SI 
 
 $47,689.73 
 12,000.00 
 15,288.50 
 19,011.87 
 72,245.64 
 78,145.85 
 
 389,009.08 
 
 202,117.05 
 97,097.00 
 89,432.40 
 
 170,474.67 
 
 764.57 
 
 $1,193,276.36 
 
 That, under the head Finance, includes the interest on bor- 
 rowed money. The funded national debt is $340,000. Of 
 this sum a portion bears no stated interest, only such as may 
 arise from the very dubious profits of the Hawaiian hotel. The 
 interest charges are 12 per cent, on $25,000, and 9 per cent, 
 on $272,000. The estimates for the present biennial period in- 
 volve a large increase of debt. The present financial position 
 of the kingdom is, an increasing expenditure and a decreasing 
 revenue. 
 
 The statistics of the Judiciary Department for the last two 
 years present a few features of interest. There were 4000 con- 
 victions out of 5764 cases brought before the courts, equal to a 
 fourteenth part of the population. The total number of offences 
 in the category is 125. Of these some are decidedly local. 
 Thus, for "furnishing intoxicating liquors to Hawaiians " 92 
 persons were punished; for "exhibition of Hula" 10; tor 
 " selling awa without licence," 12; for " selling opium without 
 licence," 24. It is not surprising to those who know the habits 
 of the people, that the convictions for violations of the mar- 
 
304 HA WAIT. 
 
 riage tie, though greatly diminished, should reach the number 
 of 384, while under the head " Deserting Husbands and 
 Wives," 67 convictions are recorded. For "practising medi- 
 cine without a licence," 56 persons were punished ; for " furious 
 riding," 197 ; for " cruelty to animals," 37 ; for " gaming," 121 ; 
 for "gross cheating," 32; for "violating the Sabbath," 61. 
 We must remember that the returns include foreigners and 
 Chinamen, or else the reputation for " harmlessness " which 
 Hawaiians possess would suffer seriously when we read that 
 within the last two years there were 178 convictions for 
 "assault," 248 for " assault and battery," 12 for " assaults with 
 dangerous weapons," 49 for " affray," 674 for "drunkenness," 
 87 for " disturbing quiet of the night," and 13 for " murder." 
 Yet the number of criminal cases has largely diminished, and 
 taking civil and criminal together, there has been a decrease of 
 656 for the last biennial period, as compared with that imme- 
 diately preceding it. 
 
 The administration of justice is confessedly one of the most 
 efficient departments of Hawaiian affairs. Chief Justice Allen, 
 both as a lawyer and a gentleman, is worthy to fill the highest 
 position in his native country (America), and the Associate 
 Justices, as well as the native and foreign judges throughout 
 the islands, are highly esteemed for honour and uprightness. I 
 never heard an uttered suspicion of venality or unfairness against 
 anyone of them, and apparently the Judiciary Department of 
 Hawaii deserves the same confidence which we repose in our 
 own. 
 
 The Educational System has been carefully modelled, and is 
 carried out with tolerable efficiency. Eighty-seven per cent, of 
 the whole school population are actually at school, and the in- 
 spector of schools states that a person who cannot read and 
 write is rarely met with. Each common school is graded into 
 two, three, or four classes, according to the intelligence and 
 proficiency of the pupils, and the curriculum of study is as 
 follows : — 
 
 Class I. — Reading, mental and written arithmetic, geo- 
 graphy, penmanship, and composition. 
 
 Class II. — Reading, mental arithmetic, geography, pen- 
 manship. 
 
 Class III. — Reading, first principles of arithmetic, pen- 
 manyhip. 
 
 Class IV. — Primer, use of slate and pencil. 
 
EDUCATION. 
 
 305 
 
 The youngest children are not classified until they can put 
 letters together in syllables. 
 
 Vocal music is taught wherever competent teachers are 
 found. 
 
 The total sum expended on education, including the grants 
 to famdy " and other schools, is about #40,000 a year.* 
 
 It has been remarked that the rising race of Hawaiians has 
 an mcreased contempt for industry in the form of manual 
 labour, and it is proposed by the Board of Education that such 
 labour shall be made a part of common school education, so 
 that on both girls and boys a desire to provide for their own 
 wants in an honest way shall be officially inculcated. There is 
 a Government Reformatory School, and industrial and family 
 schools for both girls and boys are scattered over the islands. 
 The supply of literature in the vernacular is meagre, and few 
 of the natives have an intelligent comprehension of English. 
 
 The group has an area of about 4,000,000 acres, of which 
 about 200,000 may be regarded as arable, and 150,000 as 
 specially adapted for the culture of sugar-cane. Sugar, the 
 great staple production, gives employment in its cultivation and 
 manufacture to neaiiy 4000 hands. Only a fifteenth part of 
 the estimated arable area is under cultivation. Over 6000 
 natives are returned as the possessors oi Kuleanas or freeholds, 
 but many of these are heavily mortgaged. Many of the larger 
 lands are held on lease from the crown or chiefs, and there are 
 difficulties attending the purchase of small properties. 
 
 Almost all the roots and fruits of the torrid and temperate 
 zones can be grown upon the islands, and the banana, kalo, 
 yam, sweet potato, cocoanut, breadfruit, arrowroot, sugar cane, 
 strawberry, raspberry, whortleberry, and native apple, are said 
 to be indigenous. 
 
 * The schools of the kingdom are as follows : 
 
 Common Schools 
 
 Government Boarding Schools . . . 
 Government Haw.-Eng. Day Schools . 
 Subsidized Boarding Schools . . . 
 Subsidized Day Schools 
 Independent Boarding Schools . . . 
 Independent Day Schools . 
 
 Total 
 
 Number 
 Schools. 
 
 Boys. 
 
 Girls. 
 
 TotaL 
 
 196 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 3193 
 185 
 41S 
 168 
 201 
 
 I'' 
 287 
 
 2329 
 
 246 
 191 
 210 
 62 
 254 
 
 5522 
 18S 
 661 
 
 359 
 
 411 
 
 76 
 
 541 
 
 242 
 
 4463 
 
 3292 
 
 7755 
 
3o6 HAWAII. 
 
 The indigenous ^m;?^ is small, consisting only of hogs, dogs, 
 rats, and an anomalous bat which flies by day. There are few 
 insects, except such as have been imported, and these, which 
 consist of centipedes, scorpions, cockroaches, mosquitos, and 
 Heas, are happily confined to certain localities, and the two first 
 have left most of their venom behind them. A small lizard is 
 abundant, but snakes, toads, and frogs have not yet effected a 
 landing. 
 
 The ornithology of the islands is scanty. Domestic fowls 
 are supposed to be indigenous. Wild geese are numerous 
 among the mountains of Hawaii, and plovers, snipe, and wild 
 ducks, are found on all the islands. A handsome owl, called 
 the owl-hawk, is common. There is a paroquet with purple 
 feathers, another with scarlet, a woodpecker with variegated 
 plumage of red, green, and yellow, and a small black bird with 
 a single yellow feather under each wing. There are few sing- 
 ing birds, but one of the few has as sweet a note as that of the 
 English thrush. There are very few varieties of moths and 
 butterflies. 
 
 Thejlora of the Hawaiian Islands is far scantier than that of 
 the South Sea groups, and cannot compare with that of many 
 other tropical as well as temperate regions. But all the islands 
 are rich in cryptogamous plants, of which there is an almost 
 infinite variety. 
 
 Hawaii is still in process of construction, and is subject to 
 volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, and tidal waves. Hurricanes- 
 are unknown, and thunderstorms are rare and light. 
 
 Under favourable circumstances of moisture the soil is most 
 prolific, and " patch cultivation " in glens and ravines, as well 
 as on mountain sides, produces astonishing results. A Xalo' 
 patch of forty square feet will support a man for a year. An 
 acre of favourably situated land will grow a thousand stems of 
 bananas, which will produce annually ten tons of fruit. The 
 sweet potato flourishes on the most unpromising lava, where 
 soil can hardly be said to exist, and in good localities produces 
 200 barrels to the acre. On dry light soils the Irish potato 
 grows anyhow and anywhere, with no Other trouble than that of 
 planting the sets. Most vegetable dyes, drugs, and spices can 
 be raised. Forty diverse fruits present an overflowing cornu- 
 copia. The esculents of the temperate zones flourish. The 
 coffee bush produces from three to five pounds of berries the 
 third year after planting. The average yield of sugar is two 
 and a half tons to the acre. Pineapples grow like weeds in 
 
PRODUCTIONS OF HAWAII. 307 
 
 some districts, and water melons are almost a drug. The 
 bamboo is kno^vn to grow sixteen inches in a day. Wherever 
 there is a sufficient rainfall, the earth teems with plenty. 
 
 Yet the Hawaiian Islands can hardly be regarded as a field 
 for emigration, though nature is lavish, and the climate the 
 most delicious and salubrious in the world. Farming, as we 
 understand it, is unknown. The dearth of insectivorous birds 
 seriously affects the cultivation of a soil naturally bounteous to 
 excess. The narrow gorges in which terraced " patched culti- 
 vation " is so successful, offer no temptations to a man with 
 the world before him. The larger areas require labour, 
 and labour is not to be had. Though wheat and other 
 cereals mature, attacks of weevil prevent their storage, and 
 all the grain and flour consumed are imported from Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 Cacao, cinnamon, and allspice, are subject to an apparently 
 ineradicable blight. The blight which has attacked the coffee 
 shrub is so severe, that the larger plantations have been dug 
 up, and coffee is now raised by patch culture, mainly among 
 the guava scrub which fringes the forests. Oranges suffer from 
 blight also, and some of the finest groves have been cut down. 
 Cotton suffers from the ravages of a caterpillar. The mulberry- 
 tree, which, from its rapid growth, would be invaluable to silk 
 growers, is covered with a black and white blight. Sheep are 
 at present very successful, but in some localities the spread of a 
 pestilent " oat-burr " is depreciating the value of their wool. 
 The forests, which are essential to the well-being of the islands, 
 are disappearing in some quarters, owing to the attacks of a 
 grub, as well as the ravages of cattle. 
 
 Cocoanuts, bananas, yams, sweet potatoes, kalo, and bread- 
 fruit, the staple food of the native population, are free from 
 blight, and so are potatoes and rice. Beef cattle can be raised 
 for almost nothing, and in some districts beef can be bought 
 for the cerjt or two per pound which pays for the cutting up of 
 the carcase. Every one can live abundantly, and without the 
 " sweat of the brow," but few can make money, owing to the 
 various forms of blight, the scarcity of labour, and the lack of 
 a profitable market. 
 
 There is little healthy activity in any department of business. 
 The whaling fleet has deserted the islands. A general pilikia 
 prevails. Settlements are disappearing, valley lands are falling- 
 out of cultivation, Hilo grass and guava scrub are burying the 
 traces of a former population. The natives are rapidly di- 
 
 X 2 
 
3o8 
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 minishing,* the old industries are abandoned, and the inherent 
 immorality of the race, the great outstanding cause of its decay, 
 still resists the influence of Christian teaching and example. 
 
 An exotic civilization is having a fair trial on these islands. 
 With the exception of the serious maladies introduced by 
 foreigners in the early days, and the disastrous moral influence 
 exercised by vi^orthless whites, the Hawaiians have suffered 
 none of the wrongs usually inflicted on the feebler by the 
 stronger race. Their rights were in the first instance carefully 
 secured to them, and have since been protected by equal laws, 
 righteously administered. They have been aided towards inde- 
 pendence in political matters, and the foreigners who framed 
 
 The population by the last census, taken in 1872, is as follows :- 
 
 Total number of natives in 1872 . 
 
 • • • ■ 
 
 49,044 
 
 
 half-castes in 1872 
 
 
 2,487 
 
 
 Chinese in 1872 . 
 
 . 
 
 1,938 
 
 
 Americans in 1872 
 
 
 889 
 
 
 Hawaiians bom of foreign parents, 1872 
 
 849 
 
 
 Britons in 1872 . 
 
 . 
 
 619 
 
 
 Portuguese in 1872 
 
 . 
 
 395 
 
 
 Germans in 1872 . 
 
 . 
 
 224 
 
 
 French in 1872 
 
 . . • . 
 
 88 
 
 
 other foreigners in 1 
 
 872 .. . 
 
 364 
 
 Total population in 1872 
 
 
 
 56,897 
 
 Total number of natives, including half -castes, in 1866 . 
 
 58,765 
 
 )) j» 
 
 ■e 1866 
 
 1872 . 
 
 51.531 
 
 Decrease situ 
 
 7.234 
 
 The excess of males mer females is (),ep-i souls I 
 
 
 AREA AND POPULATION 
 
 OF EACH ISLAND. 
 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Height 
 in Feet. 
 
 Population 
 in 1872. 
 
 Hawaii 
 
 2,500,000 
 
 13.953 
 
 16,001 
 
 Maui 
 
 400,000 
 
 10,200 
 
 12,334 
 
 Oahu 
 
 350,000 
 
 3,800 
 
 20,671 
 
 Kauai . 
 
 350,000 about 6,000 
 
 4,961 
 
 Molokai 
 
 200,000 
 
 2,800 
 
 2,349 
 
 Lanai . 
 
 100,000 
 
 2,400 
 
 348 
 
 Niihau 
 
 70,000 
 
 800 
 
 233 
 
 Kahoolawe . 
 
 30,000 
 
 400 
 
 
 Total 
 
 • 56,897 
 
TESTIMONIES TO THE MISSIONARIES. 309 
 
 the laws and constitution, and have directed Hawaiian affairs, 
 such as Richards, Lee, Judd, Allen, and Wyllie, were men 
 above reproach ; and missionary influence, of all others the 
 most friendly to the natives, has predominated for fifty years. 
 
 The effects of missionary labour have been scarcely touched 
 upon in the foregoing letters, and here, in preference to giving 
 any opinion of my own, I quote from Mr. R. H. Dana,* an 
 Episcopalian, and a barrister of the highest standing in Ame- 
 rica, well known in this country by his writings, who sums up 
 his investigations on the Sandwich Islands in the following 
 dispassionate words : " It is no small thing to say of the mis- 
 sionaries of the American Board, that in less than forty years 
 they have taught this whole people to read and to write, to 
 cipher and to sew. They have given them an alphabet, 
 grammar, and dictionary; preserved their language from ex- 
 tinction ; given it a literature, and translated into it the Bible, 
 and works of devotion, science, and entertainment, &c. They 
 have established schools, reared up native teachers, and so 
 pressed their work, that now the proportion of inhabitants who 
 can read and write is greater than in New England. And 
 whereas they found these islanders a nation of half-naked 
 savages, living in the surf and on the sand, eating raw fish, 
 fighting among themselves, tyrannized over by feudal chiefs, 
 and abandoned to sensuality, they now see them decently 
 clothed, recognizing the law of marriage, knowing something of 
 accounts, going to school and public worship more regularly 
 than the people do at home, and the more elevated of them 
 taking part in conducting the affairs of the constitutional mo- 
 narchy under which they live, holding seats on the judicial 
 bench and in the legislative chambers, and filling posts in the 
 local magistracies." 
 
 If space permitted, the testimony of " Mark Twain," given 
 m "Roughing It," might be added to the above, and the 
 remaining missionaries may well point to the visible results of 
 their labours, with the one word Circumspice! 
 
 * Author of " Two Years before the Mast," &c., &c. 
 
A CHAPTER ON HAWAIIAN 
 HISTORY. 
 
 In the pre-historic days of Hawaii, for 500 years, as the 
 bards sing, before Captain Cook landed, and indeed for some 
 years afterwards, each island had its king, chiefs, and internal 
 dissensions ; and incessant wars, with a reckless waste of human 
 life, kept the whole group in turmoil. Chaotic and legendary 
 as early Hawaiian history is, there is enough to show that there 
 must have been regularly organized communities on the islands 
 for a very long period, with a civilization and polity which, 
 though utterly unworthy of Christianity, were enlightened and 
 advanced for Polynesian heathenism. 
 
 The kingly office was hereditary, and the king's power abso- 
 lute. On the different islands the kings and chiefs who together 
 constituted a privileged class, admitted the priesthood to some 
 portion of their privileges, probably with the view of enslaving 
 the people more completely through the agency of religion, 
 and held the lower classes in absolute subserviency by the most 
 rigorous of feudal systems, which included hana poalima, or 
 forced labour, and the talu, well known throughout Polynesia. 
 
 A very interesting history begins with Kamehameha the 
 Great, the Conqueror, or the Terrible ; the " Napoleon of the 
 Pacific," as he has been called. He united an overmastering 
 ambition to a singular gift of ruling, and without education, 
 training, or the help of a single political precedent to guide 
 him, animated not only by the lust of conquest, but by the 
 desire to create a nationality, he subjugated every thing that 
 his canoes could reach, and fused a rabble of savages and 
 chieftaincies into a united nation, every individual of which 
 to this day inherits something of the patriotism of the Con- 
 queror. 
 
RECENT HAWAIIAN HISTORY. 311 
 
 ,His wars were by no means puny either in proportions or 
 slaughter, as, for instance, when he meditated the conquest of 
 Kauai, his expedition included seven thousand picked warriors, 
 twenty-one schooners, forty swivels, six mortars, and an abund- 
 ance of ammunition ! His victories are celebrated in countless 
 meles or unwritten songs, which are said to be marked by real 
 poetic feeling and simpHcity, and to resemble the Ossianic 
 poems in majesty and melancholy. He founded the dynasty 
 which for seventy years has stood as firmly, and exercised its 
 functions for the welfare of the people on the whole as effici- 
 ently, as any other government. 
 
 The king was forty-five years old when, having " no more 
 worlds to conquer," he devoted himself to the consolidation of 
 his kingdom. He placed governors on each island, directly 
 responsible to himself, who nominated chiefs of districts, heads 
 of villages, and all petty officers ; and tax-gatherers, who, for 
 lack of the art of writing, kept their accounts by a method in 
 use in the English exchequer in ancient times. He appointed 
 a council of chiefs, with whom he advised on important matters, 
 and a council of " wise men " who assisted him in framing 
 laws, and in regulating concerns of minor importance. In all 
 matters of national importance, the governors and high chiefs 
 of the islands met with the sovereign in consultations. These 
 were conducted with great privacy, and the results were pro- 
 mulgated through the islands by heralds whose office was 
 hereditary. 
 
 Kamehameha enacted statutes against theft, murder, and 
 oppression, and though he wielded oppressive and despotic 
 authority himself, his people enjoyed a golden age as compared 
 with those that were past. The king, governors, and chiefs 
 constituted the magistracy, and there was an appeal from both 
 chiefs and governors to the king. It was usual for both par- 
 ties to be heard face to face in the enclosure in front of the 
 house of the king or governor; no lawyers were employed, and 
 every man advocated his own cause, sitting cross-legged before 
 the judges. Swiftness and decision characterized the redress of 
 grievances and the administration of justice. , • , , , 
 
 Kamehameha reduced the feudal tenure of land, which had 
 heretofore been the theory, into absolute practice, claiming for 
 the crown the sole ownership of the land, and dividing it 
 among his followers on the conditions of tribute and military 
 service. The common people were attached to the soil and 
 transferred with it A chief might nominate his wife, or son, 
 
312 HAWAII. 
 
 or any other person to succeed him in his possessions, but .at 
 his death they reverted to the king, whose order was required 
 before the testamentary wish became of any value. There 
 were some wise regulations generally applicable, concerning 
 the planting of cocoanut trees, and a law that the water should 
 be conducted over every plantation twice a week in general, 
 and once a week during the dry season. This king con- 
 structed immense fish ponds on the sea coast, and devoted 
 himself to commerce with such success that in one year he ex- 
 ported $400,000 of sandalwood (felled and shipped at the cost 
 of much suffering to the common people), and on finding that 
 a large proportion of the profit had been dissipated by harbour 
 dues at Canton, he took up the idea and estabhshed harbour 
 dues at Honolulu. 
 
 From Vancouver Kamehameha learned of the grandeur 
 and power of Christian nations ; and in the idea that his people 
 might grow great through Christianity, he asked him, in 1794, 
 that Christian teachers might be sent from England. This 
 request, if ever presented, was disregarded, as was another 
 made by Captain Turnbull in 1803, and this exceptionally great 
 Polynesian died the year before the light of the Gospel shone 
 on Hawaiian shores. 
 
 Some persons, it does not appear whether they were English 
 or American, attempted his conversion ; but the astute savage, 
 after listening to their eloquent statements of the power of 
 faith, pressed on them as a crucial test to throw themselves 
 from the top of an adjacent precipice, making his reception of 
 their religion contingent on their arrival unhurt at its base. He 
 built large heiaus, amongst others the one at Kawaihae, at the 
 dedication of which to his favourite war god eleven human 
 sacrifices were offered. To the end he remained devoted to 
 the state religion, and the last instances of capital punishment 
 for breaking tabu, a thraldom deeply interwoven with the reli- 
 gious system, occurred in the last year of his reign, when one 
 man was put to death for putting on a chief's girdle, another 
 for eating of a tabooed dish, and a third for leaving a house 
 under tabu, and entering one which was not so. 
 
 His last prayers were to his great red-feathered god Kukai- 
 limoku, and priests bringing idols crowded round him in his 
 dying agony. His last words were " Move on in my good way 
 
 and" In the death-room the high chiefs consulted, and 
 
 one, to testify his great grief, proposed to eat the body raw, but 
 was overruled by the majority. So the flesh was separated from 
 
RECENT HAWAIIAN HISTORY. 313 
 
 the bones, and they were tied up in tapa, and concealed so 
 effectually that they have never since been found. A holocaust 
 of three hundred dogs gave splendour to his obsequies. 
 "These are our gods whom I worship," he had said to 
 Kotzebue, while showing him one of the temples. " Whether I 
 do right or wrong I do not know, but I follow my faith, which 
 cannot be wicked, as it commands me never to do wrong." 
 
 Kamehamehathe Great died in i8i9,and his son,Liholiho,who 
 loved whisky and pleasure, was peaceably crowned king in his 
 room, and by his name. He, with the powerful aid of the Queen 
 Dowager Kaahumanu, abolished tabu, and his subjects cast 
 away their idols, and fell into indifferent scepticism, the high 
 priest Hewahewa being the first to light the iconoclastic torch, 
 having previously given his opinion that there was only one great 
 qkua or spirit in lani, the heavens. This Kamehameha II. 
 was the king who with his queen, died of measles in London 
 in 1824, after which the Blonde frigate was sent to restore their 
 bodies with much ceremony to Hawaiian soil. 
 
 Kamehameha III., a minor, another son of the Conqueror, 
 succeeded, and reigned for thirty years, dividing the lands 
 among the nobles and the people, and conferring upon his 
 kingdom an equable constitution. The law officially abolishing 
 idolatry was confirmed by him, and while complete religious 
 toleration otherwise was granted, the Christian faith was estab- 
 lished in these words : — " The religion of the Lord Jesus 
 Christ shall continue to be the established national religion of 
 the Hawaiian Islands." His words on July 31st, 1843, when 
 the English colours, wrongfully hoisted, were lowered in favour 
 of the Hawaiian flag, are the national motto : — " The life of 
 the land is established in righteousness." In his reign Ha- 
 waiian independence was recognised by Great Britain, France, 
 and America. His Premier for some time was Mr. Wyllie, 
 who with a rare devotion and disinterestedness devoted his hfe 
 and a large fortune to his adopted country. 
 
 Kamehameha IV., a grandson of the Conqueror, succeeded 
 him in 1854. He was a patriotic prince, and strove hard to 
 advance the civilisation of his people, and to arrest their 
 decrease by reformatory and sanitary measures. He was the 
 most accomplished prince of his line, and his death in 1863, 
 soon after that of his only child, the Prince of Hawaii, was 
 \try deeply regretted. His widow, Queen Kaleleonalani, or 
 Emma, visited England after his death. 
 
 He was succeeded by his brother, a man of a very different 
 
314 
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 Stamp, who was buried on January ii, 1873, after a partial 
 outbreak of the orgies wherewith the natives disgraced them- 
 selves after the death of a chief in the old heathen days. It 
 is rare to meet with two people successively who hold the same 
 opinion of Kamehameha V. He was evidently a man of some 
 talent and strong will, intensely patriotic, and determined not 
 to be a merely ornamental figure-head of a government ad- 
 ministered by foreigners in his name. He ardently desired the 
 encouragement of foreign immigration, and the opening of a 
 free market in America for Hawaiian produce. He ruled, as 
 well as reigned, and though he abrogated the constitution of 
 1852, and introduced several features of absolutism into the 
 government, on the whole he seems to have done well by his 
 people. He is said to have been regal and dignified, to have 
 worked hard, to have written correct state papers, and to have 
 been capable of the deportment of an educated Christian gen- 
 tleman, but to have reimbursed himself for this subservience 
 to conventionality by occasionally retiring to an undignified 
 residence on the sea-shore, where he transformed himself into 
 the likeness of one of his half-clad heathen ancestors, debased 
 himself by whisky, and revelled in the htda-hula. He is said 
 also to have been so far under the empire of the old supersti- 
 tions as to consult an' ancient witch on affairs of importance. 
 
 He died amidst the rejoicings incident to his birthday, and 
 on the next day " lay in state in the throne-room of the palace, 
 while his ministers, his staff, and the chiefs of the realm kept 
 watch over him, and sombre kahilis waving at his head 
 beat a rude and silent dead march for the crowds of people, 
 subjects and aliens, who continuously filed through the apart- 
 ment, for a curious farewell glance at the last of the Kameha- 
 mehas." 
 
 His death closed the first era of Hawaiian history, and the 
 orderly succession of one recognised dynasty. No successor 
 to the throne had been proclaimed, and the king bft no nearer 
 kin than the Princess Keelikolani, his half-sister, a lady not in 
 the line of regal descent. 
 
 Under these novel circumstances, it devolved upon the 
 Legislative Assembly to elect by ballot " some native Alii of 
 the kingdom as successor to the throne." The candidates 
 were the High Chief Kalakaua, the present King, and Prince 
 Lunalilo, the late King, but the- " Well-Beloved," as Lunalilo 
 was called, was elected unanimously, amidst an outburst of 
 popular enthusiasm. 
 
RECENT HAWAIIAN HISTORY. 315 
 
 From his high resolves and generous instincts much was 
 expected, and the unhappy failing, to which, after the most 
 painful struggles, he succumbed, on the solicitation of some 
 bad or thoughtless foreigners, if it lessened him aught in the 
 public esteem, abated nothing of the wonderful love that was 
 felt for him. 
 
 He died, after a lingering illness, on February 3, 1874. 
 Although the event had been expected for some time, its 
 announcement was received with profound sorrow by the 
 whole community, while the native subjects of the deceased 
 sovereign, according to ancient custom, expressed their feelings 
 in loud wailings, which echoed mournfully through the still, 
 red air of early daylight. On the following evening the body 
 was placed on a shrouded bier, and was escorted in solemn 
 procession by the government officials and the late king's 
 staff, to the lolani Palace, there to lie in state. It was a 
 cloudless moonlight ; not a leaf stirred or bird sang, and the 
 crowd, consisting of several thousands, opened to the right and 
 left to let the dismal death-train pass, in a stillness which was 
 only broken by the solemn tramp of the bearers. 
 
 The next day the corpse lay in state, in all the splendour 
 that the islands could bestow, dressed in the clothes the king 
 wore when he took the oath of office, and resting on the royal 
 robe of yellow feathers, a fathom square.* Between eight and 
 ten thousand persons passed through the palace during the 
 morning, and foreigners as well as natives wept tears of genuine 
 grief; while in the palace grounds the wailing knew no inter- 
 mission, and many of the natives spent hours in reciting 
 kanakatis in honour of the deceased. At midnight the king's 
 remaii^s were placed in a coffin, his aged father, His Highness 
 Kanaina, who was broken-hearted for his loss, standing by. 
 When the body was raised from the feather robe, he ordered 
 that it should be wrapped in it, and thus be deposited in its 
 resting place. "He is the last of our race," he said; "it 
 belongs to him." The natives in attendance turned pale at 
 this command, for the robe was the property of Kekauluohi, 
 the dead king's mother, and had descended to her from her 
 kingly ancestors. 
 Averse through his life to useless parade and display, Luna- 
 
 • Only one robe like this remains, that which is spread over the throne 
 at the opening of Parliament. The one buried with Lunalilo could not be 
 reproduced for one hundred thousand dollars. 
 
3i6 , HAWAII. 
 
 lilo left directions for a simple funeral, and that none of the 
 old heathenish observances should ensue upon his death. So, 
 amidst unbounded grief, he was carried to the grave with 
 hymns and anthems, and the hopes of Hawaii were buried with 
 him. 
 
 He died without naming a successor, and thus for the second 
 time within fourteen months, a king came to be elected by 
 ballot. 
 
 The proceedings at the election of Lunalilo were marked by 
 an order, regularity, and peaceableness which reflected extreme 
 credit on the civilisation of the Hawaiians, but in the subse- 
 quent period the temper of the people had considerably 
 changed, and they had been affected by influences to which 
 some allusions were made in Letter XIX. 
 
 In politics, Lunalilo's views were essentially democratic, and 
 he showed an almost undue deference to the will of the people, 
 giving them a year's practical experience of democracy which 
 they will never forget. 
 
 An antagonism to the foreign residents, or rather to their 
 political influence, had grown rapidly. Some of the Americans 
 had been unwise in their language, and the discussion on the 
 proposed cession of Pearl River increased the popular discon- 
 tent, and the jealousy of foreign interference in island affairs. 
 " America gave us the light," said a native pastor, in a sermon 
 which was reported over the islands, " but now that we have 
 the light, we should be left to use it for ourselves." This sen- 
 tence represented the bulk of the national feeling, which, if 
 partially unenlightened, is intensely, passionately, almost fana- 
 tically patriotic. 
 
 The biennial election of delegates to the Legislative Assembly 
 occurred shortly before Lunalilo's death, and the ralljring-cry, 
 " Hawaii for the Hawaiians," was used with such effect that 
 the most respectable foreign candidates, even in the capital, 
 had not a chance of success, and for the first time in Hawaiian 
 constitutional history a house was elected, consisting, with one 
 exception, of natives. Immediately on the king's death, Kala- 
 kaua, who was understood to represent the foreign interest as 
 well as the policy indicated by the popular rallying-cry, and 
 Queen Emma, came forward as candidates; the walls were 
 placarded with addresses, mass meetings were held, canvassers 
 were busy night and day, promises impossible of fulfilment 
 were made, and for eight days the Hawaiian capital presented 
 those scenes of excitement, wrangling, and mutual misrepre- 
 
RECENT HAWAIIAN HISTORY. 317 
 
 sentation which we associate with popular elections elsewhere, 
 and everywhere. 
 
 The day of election came, and thirty-nine votes were given 
 for Kalakaua, and six for Emma. On the announcement of 
 this result, a hoarse, indignant roar, mingled with cheers from 
 the crowd without, was heard within the Assembly chamber, 
 and on the committee appointed to convey to Kalakaua the 
 news of his election, attempting to take their seats in a car- 
 riage, they were driven back, maimed and bleeding, into the 
 Courthouse ; the carriage was torn to pieces, and the spokes of 
 the wheels were distributed as weapons among the rioters. 
 The "gentle children of the sun" were seen under a new 
 aspect ; they became furious, the latent savagery came out, the 
 doors of the Hall of Assembly were battered in, the windows 
 were shattered with clubs and volleys of stones, nine of the 
 representatives, who were known to have voted for Kalakaua, 
 were severely injured ; the chairs, tables, and furnishings of the 
 rooms were broken up and thrown out of the windows, along 
 with valuable public and private documents; kerosene was de- 
 manded to fire the buildings ; the police remained neutral, and 
 conflagration and murder would have followed, had not the 
 ministers despatched an urgent request for assistance to the 
 United States' ships of war, Portsmouth and Tuscarora, and 
 H. B. M. ship Tenedos, which was promptly met by the landing 
 of such a force of sailors and marines as dispersed the 
 rioters. 
 
 Seventy arrests were made, the foreign marines held posses- 
 sion of the Courthouse, Palace, and Government offices, Kala- 
 kaua took the oath of office in private ; the Representatives, 
 with bandaged heads, and arms in sUngs, limped, and in some 
 instances were supported to their desks, to be liberated from 
 their duties by the king in person, and in ten days the joint 
 protectorate was withdrawn. 
 
 Those who know the natives best were taken by surprise, 
 and are compelled to recognise that a restive, half-sullen, half- 
 defiant spirit is abroad among them, and that the task of 
 governing them may not be the easy thing which it has been 
 since the days of Kamehameha the Great. 
 
 Of King Kalakaua, who began his reign under such unfor- 
 tunate auspices, little at present can be said. Though island 
 affairs have settled down into their old quietude, party spirit, 
 arising out of the election, has not died out among the natives. 
 The king chose his advisers wisely, and made a concession to 
 
3i8 HAWAII. 
 
 native feeling by appointing a native named Nahaolelua to a 
 seat in the cabinet as Minister of Finance, but his first arrange- 
 ment was upset, and a good deal of confusion subsequently 
 prevailed. 
 
 The Queen, Kapiolani, is a Hawaiian lady of high character 
 and extreme amiability, and both King and Queen have been 
 exemplary in their domestic relations. 
 
 Kalakaua's first act was to proclaim his brother, Prince Le- 
 leiohoku, his successor, investing him at the same time with the 
 title, " His Royal Highness," and his second was to reorganize 
 the military service, with the view of making it an efficient and 
 well-disciplined force. 
 
 There is something melancholy in the fact that this small 
 Pacific kingdom has to fall back upon the old world resource 
 of a standing army, as large, in proportion to its population, as 
 that of the German Empire. 
 
 Those readers who have become interested in the Sandwich 
 Islands through the foregoing Letters, will join me in the 
 earnest wish that this people, which has advanced from 
 heathenism and barbarism to Christianity and civilization in the 
 short space of a single generation, may enjoy peace and pro- 
 sperity under King Kalakaua, that the extinction which 
 threatens the nation may be averted, and that under a gracious 
 Divine Providence, Hawaii may still remain the inheritance of 
 the Hawaiians. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 BHADBURY, ACNEW, & CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS. 
 
POPULAR TRAVELS & ADVENTURES- 
 
 THE CRADLE OF THE BLUE NILE. A Visit to the 
 
 ^vol^ °Cr^Z°Bl°."l°:: '^™'°"*- ^y =■ ^- °^ CossON. With Illustrations. 
 
 THE BEDOUINS OF THE EUPHRATES VALLEY. By 
 
 Lady Anne Blunt. With a Preface and some Account of the Arabs and their 
 Horses. With Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 24J. 
 
 BULGARIA BEFORE THE WAR. A Seven Years' Ex- 
 perience OF European Turkey and its Inhabitants. By H. C. Barkley, 
 Post 8vo. los. 6d. 
 
 THE COUNTRY OF THE MOORS. A Journey from 
 
 Tripoli in Baebary to the Holy City of Kairwan. By Edward Rae. 
 With Etchings. Crown 8vo. 12J. ' 
 
 BRITISH BURMA AND ITS PEOPLE ; Sketches of the 
 
 Native Manners, Customs, and Religion. By Caipt. C. J. F. S. Forbes. 
 Crown 8vo. loj. ^d. 
 
 TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES AMONG THE LAKES 
 
 AND MOUNTAINS OF EA.STERN AND CENTRAL AFRICA. By 
 J. Frederic Elton and H. B. Cotterill. With Illustrations. 8vo. 211. 
 
 SIX MONTHS IN ASCENSION. An Unscientific 
 
 Account of a Scientific Expedition. By Mrs. Gill. Second Edition. 
 Map. Crown 8vo. gj. 
 
 PIONEERING IN SOUTH BRAZIL. THREE Years of 
 
 Forest and Prairie Life in the Province of 'Parana. By T. Bigg 
 Wither. With Illustrations, z vols. Post 8vo. 24^. 
 
 LETTERS FROM HIGH LATITUDES : An Account of 
 
 a Yacht Voyage to Iceland, Jan Mayen, and Spitzbeegen. By Lord 
 DuFFERiN. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7J. ^d. 
 
 JAPAN ; ITS HISTORY, TRADITIONS, and RELIGIONS. 
 
 With the Narrative ofa Visit in 1879. By E. J. Reed, M. P. With Illustrations. 
 2 vols. 8vo. 
 
 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS : Narrative of Re- 
 searches AND Discoveries at Nineveh, during an Expedition to Assyria in 
 1845-7. By Sir H. Layaed. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. ^s. (sd. 
 
 NINEVEH AND BABYLON : ■ Narrative of a Second 
 
 Expedition to Assyria, 1849-51. By Sin H. Layaed. With Illustrations. 
 Post 8vo. IS. 6d. 
 
 THE VOYAGE OF THE "FOX" IN THE ARCTIC SEAS 
 
 IN SEARCH OF FRANKLIN AND HIS COMPANIONS. By Sir Leo- 
 pold McClintock. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. ^s. 6d. ' 
 
 THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. By Edward 
 
 Whympee. With 100 Illustrations. Medium 8vo. los. 6d. 
 
 [Continued. 
 
POPULAR TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES^continued, 
 
 FIELD PATHS AND GREEN LANES. Being Country 
 
 WalkSj chiefly in Surrey and Sussex. By Louis J. Jennings. With Illustra- 
 tions. Post 8vo. loj. ^d. 
 
 BUBBLES FROM THE BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. By 
 
 Sir FjiANCis Head. With Illustrations. Post 8vo, ^s. 6d. 
 
 VISITS TO THE MONASTERIES OF THE LEVANT. 
 
 By Hon. Robert Curzon. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. -js. 6d. 
 
 A POPULAR ACCOUNT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S FIRST 
 
 AND SECOND EXPEDITIONS TO AFRICA, 1840-64., With Illustrations. 
 2 vols. Post 8vD. 75. 6d. each. 
 
 FIVE YEARS IN DAMASCUS, WITH Travels IN Palmyra, 
 
 LEBANON/and the Giant Cities of Bashan, and the Hauean. By Rev. J. L. 
 Porter. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7^. 6d. 
 
 THE CRUISE OF THE "ROB ROY" ON THE JORDAN, 
 NILE, RED SEA, GENNESARETH, &c. By John Macgregor. With 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. js. 6d. 
 
 A THREE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN ABYSSINIA, with 
 
 Travels in that Country. By Mansfield Pakkyns. With Illustrations, 
 Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE NATURALIST ON THE RIVER AMAZONS : A 
 
 Record of Adventures, during Eleven Years of Travels. By H. W. Bates. 
 With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7s. 6a. 
 
 RESEARCHES IN THE HIGHLANDS OF TURKEY, 
 
 including Visits to Mounts Ida, Athos, Olympus, and Pelion. By Rev. H. F. 
 TozER. With Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 24^. 
 
 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. With a Description of Ami- 
 
 quarian Researches and Discoveries, together with an Account of Missionary 
 Labours, and Illustrations of Biblical Literature and Archseolog^', &c. By Hsnrv 
 van Lennep. With Illustrations. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 24?. 
 
 THE LAND OF MOAB. Travels and Discoveries on the East 
 
 Side of the Dead Sea and the Jordan. By Canon Tristram. With Illustrations. 
 Crown 8vo. 15J. 
 
 THE PATAGONIANS ; A Year'3 Wandering over Un- 
 trodden Ground, from the Straits of Magellan to the Rio Negro. By Captain 
 Musters. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7*. 6d. 
 
 FIVE YEARS' ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 With Notices of the Native Tribes and Savage Animals. By R. Gordon Ct;M- 
 MiNG. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 PERILS OF THE POLAR SEAS; TRUE STORIES OF 
 
 ARCTIC DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE. By Mrs. Chishclm. With 
 Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 A JOURNAL OF ADVENTURES IN EXPLORING LAKE 
 
 NYASSA, AND Establishing a Missionary and Commercial Settlement 
 THERE. By E. D. Young, R.N. Maps. Post 8vo. -js. 6d. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
50, A.LBEMARLE STREET, LONDON, 
 
 January, 1879. 
 
 ME. MUEEAY'S 
 
 GENERAL LIST OF WORKS. 
 
 ALBERT MEMORIAL. A Descriptive and Illustrated Account 
 
 of the Nationdl Monumeat erected to the PRINCE CONSORT at 
 Kensington. Illustrated by Engravings of its Architecture, Decora- 
 tions, Sculptured Groups, Statues, Mosaics, Metalwork, &c. With 
 Descriptive Text. By Dovhe C. Bell. With 24 Plates. Folio. 12?. lis. 
 
 Handbook to. Post 8vo. Is. : or Illus- 
 trated Edition, 2s. 6d. 
 
 (Pbinob) Speeches and Addresses, with an In- 
 
 trodaction, giving some outline of his Character. With Portrait. 8vo. 
 10». ed.i or I'opular Edition, fcap. 8vo. Is. 
 
 ALBERT DifRBK ; his Life, with a History of hia Art. By Db. 
 THAnsiNG, Keeper of Archduke Albert's Art Collection at Vienna. 
 Translated from the German. With Portrait and Illustrations. 2 vols. 
 8vo. [/m tlie Press. 
 
 ABBOTT (Rev. J.). Memoirs of a Church of England Missionary 
 in the North American Colonies. Post Svo. is, 
 
 ABERCROMBIE (John). Enquiries concerning the Intellectual 
 
 Powers and the Investigation of Truth. Fcap. Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 ■ Philosophy of the Moral Feelings. Fcap. 2s. 6d. 
 
 ACLAUD (Ret. Charles). Popular Account of the Manners and 
 Customs o£ India. Post Svo. 2*. 
 
 .SSOP'S FABLES. A New Version. With Historical Preface. 
 By Rev. Thomas James. With 100 Woodcuts, by Tenkiel and Wolf. 
 Post Svo. 2s. 6<f. 
 
 AGBICULTURAL (Rotal) JOURNAL. {PuUisliedhalf-yearhj.) 
 
 AIDS TO FAITH: a Series of Es-says on Miracles; Evidences 
 of Christianity; Prophecy & Mosaic Record of Creation ; Ideology and 
 Subscription; The Pentateuch ; Inspiration; Death of Christ; Scripture 
 and Us Interpretation. By various Authors. Svo. 9s. 
 
 AMBER-WITCH (The). A most interesting Trial for Witch- 
 craft. Translated by Ladt Ddff Gobdon. Post Svo. 2s. 
 
 ARMY LIST (The). PubliaJied Mmdhly by Authority. 
 
 AETHUR'S (Little) History of England. By Ladt Callooti. 
 
 Kew Edition, continued to 1872. With 36 Woodcuts. Fcap. Svo. Is. 6rf. 
 
 ASHWELL (Rev. Canon). The Life of Samuel Wilberforce, 
 
 D.D., Lord Bishop of Oxford and Winchester. With Portraits. &c. 
 
 3 Vols; Svo, [In the Press. 
 
 ATKIKSON (Dk. R.) Vie de Seint Anban. A Poem m Normaa- 
 
 French. Ascribed to Matthew Paris. With Concordance, Glossary 
 
 and Notes. Small 4to, 10s. 6d. 
 AUSTIN (John). Leotitres on General JuRispKUDrsoE ; or, the 
 
 Philosophy of Positive Law. Edited by Kobeet Camibell. 2 VjIs. 
 
 Svo. 32s. , 
 Student's Edition, compiled from the above work, 
 
 by EOBEET Campbell. Post Svo. 12s. , 
 Analysis of. By Gordon Campbell. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 B 
 
LIST OF WORKS 
 
 ADMIRALTY PUBLICATION'S ; Issued by direction of the Lords 
 
 Commissioners of the Admiralty: — 
 A MANUAL OF SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY, for the Use of Travellers. 
 Fowrlb Edition. Edited by Kobebi Maik, M.A., Woodcnts. Post 
 8vo. 3s. ed. 
 GREENWICH ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS, 1841 to 1847, 
 
 and 1847 to 1871. Royal 4to. 20s. each. 
 GREENWICH OBSERVATIONS. 1848 to 1855. 20s. each. 
 MAGNETICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, 1844 
 
 to 1847. Royal 4to. 20s. each. 
 APPENDICES TO OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 1837. Logarithms of Sines and Cosines in. Time. 3s. 
 
 1842. Catalogne of 1439 Stars, from Observations made in 1836 
 
 1841. 4s. 
 1R45. Longitude of Valentia (Chronometrical). 3s. 
 1847. Description of Altazimuth. 3s. 
 
 Twelve Years' Catalogue of Stars, from^Observations made 
 
 in 1836 to 1847. 48. 
 Description of Photographic Apparatus. 2s. 
 
 1851. Maskelyne's Ledger of Stars. 3s. 
 
 1852. 1. Description of the Transit Circle. 3s. 
 
 1853. Refraction Tables. 8a. 
 
 1854. Description of the Zenith Tube. 3s. 
 
 Six Years* Catalogue of Stars, from Observations. 1848 to 
 1853. 4s. 
 
 Plan of Ground Buildings. 3s. 
 
 Longitude of Valentia (Galvanic). 2s. 
 1864. Moon's Semid. from Occultations. 2s. 
 
 Planetary Observations, lasi to 1835. 2s. 
 1868. Corrections of Elements of Jupiter and Saturn. 9s. 
 
 Second Seven Years' Catalogue of 2760 Stars for 1861 to 
 1867. 4s. 
 
 Description of the Great Equatorial. 3s. 
 1856. Descriptive Chronograph. 3s. 
 1860. Reduction of Deep Thermometer Observations. 2s. 
 1871. History and Description of Water Telescope. 3s. 
 1873. Regulations of the Royal Observatory. 2s. 
 
 Cape of Good Hope Observations (Star Ledgers) : 1856 to 1863. 2s. 
 
 1856. 6s. 
 
 Astronomical Results. 1857 to 1858. 5s. 
 
 Cape Catalogue of 1159 Stars, reduced to the Epoch I860. 3s. 
 Cape of Good Hnpe Astronomical Results. 1859 to 1860. 5s. 
 
 1871 to 1873. 5s. 
 
 187*. 65. 
 
 Report on Teneriffe Astronomical Experiment. 1856. 5s, 
 FaramattaCatalogueof 7385 Stars. 1822tol82«. 4s. 
 
 ASTRONOMICAL RESULTS. 1847 to 1875. 4to. 3s. each. 
 
 MAGNETICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL RESULTS. 1848 to 
 
 1875. 4(0. 3s. each. 
 REDUCTION OP THE OBSERVATIONS OF PLANETS. 1750 t» 
 1830. Royal 4to. 20s. each. 
 
 : LUNAR OBSERVATIONS. 1750 
 
 to 1830. 2 Vols. Royal 4to. 20s. each. 
 
 1831 to 1851. 4to. 10s. each. 
 
 BERNOULLI'S SEXCENTENARY TABLE. 177a 4to. 5s. 
 
 BESSEL'S AUXILIARY TABLES FOR HIS METHOD OF CLEAR- 
 ING LUNAR DISTANCES. 8vo. 2s. 
 
 ENCKB'S BERLINER JAHRBUCH, for 830. BerHn, 1828. 8vo. 9$. 
 
 HANSEN'S TABLES DB LA LUNB. 4to. 20s. 
 
 LAX'S TABLES FOR FINDING THE LATITUDE AND LONGI- 
 TUDE. 1821. 8vo. 10s. 
 
 LUNAR OBSERVATIONS at GREENWICH. 1783 to 1819. Compared 
 with the Tables, 1821. 4to. 7s. Bd. 
 
 MACLEAR ON LACAILLE'S ARC OF MERIDIAN. 2 Vols. 20s.eacb. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 
 
 25. each. 
 
 Admiralty Publications— coneinuerf. 
 
 HAYEK'S DISTANCES of the MOON'S CENTRE from tta 
 PLANETS. 1822, 3«.; 1823, 4«.M. 1824 to 1835. 8vo. 4«. each. 
 
 TABULA MOTUUM SOLIS ET LUN^. 1770. 5s. 
 
 ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT GOT- 
 
 TINGEN, from 1756 to 1761. 1826. Folio. 7». id. 
 
 NAUTICAL ALMANACS, from 1767 to 1877, 80». 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 SELECTIONS FROM, up to 1812. 8vo. 5». 
 
 1834^54. 5s. 
 
 SUPPLEMENTS, 1828 to 1833, 1837 and 1838. 
 
 TABLE requisite to be nsed with the N.A. 
 
 1781. 8to. 5s. 
 SABINE'S PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS to DaTEEMiHB the PionEB 
 
 OF THE Eaeth. 1825. 4to. 40s. 
 SHEPHERD'S TABLES for Coeeeotiho Litsab Distances. 1772. 
 
 Royal 4to. 21s. 
 
 TABLES, GENERAL, of the MOON'S DISTANCE 
 
 from the SUN, aad 10 STARS. 1787. Folio. 6s. 6d. 
 
 TAYLOR'S SEXAGESIMAL TABLE. 1780. 4to. 15s. 
 
 TABLES OP LOGARITHMS. 4to. 60s. 
 
 TIAEK'S ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS for the LoNQirnuE 
 of Madeira. 1S22. 4to. 6s. 
 
 CHRONOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS for Diffebenoes 
 
 of LONQiTUDE hebreen Dotbb, Pobtsuouth, aa Falmouth. 1823. 
 4to. 6s. 
 
 VENUS and JUPITER: Obseetations of, compared with the Tables. 
 
 Lmdm, 1822. 4to. 2s. 
 WALES AND BAYLY'S ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 1777. 4to. 21s. 
 REDUCTION OP ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS 
 
 HADE IS THE SOUTHEBN HSMISPHEEE. 1764—1771. 1788. 4tO. 
 
 lOs. 6i. 
 
 BAEBAULD (Mes.). Hymns in Prose for Children. With 
 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 
 BAECLAT (JOSEPH, LL.D.). Selected Extracts from the Tal- 
 mud, chiefly lltuslratiog the Teaching of the Bible. With an Intro- 
 duction. Illustrations. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 BAEKLEY (H. C). Five Tears among the Bulgarians and Turks 
 between the Danube and the Black Sea. Post 8vo. 10s Sd. 
 
 Bulgaria Before the War ; during a Seven Tears' 
 
 Experience of European Turkey and its Inhabitants. Post 8vo. 10s. ed. 
 My Boyhood : a True Story. A Bsok for School- 
 
 boys and others. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 BAEBOW (Sir John). Autobiographical Memoir, from Early 
 
 Life to Advanced Age. Portrait. 8vo. 16s. 
 (John) Life, Exploits, and Toyages of Sir Francis 
 
 Drake. Post 8vo. 2s. 
 BAREY (SiK Charles). Life and Works. By Canon Barrt. 
 
 With Portrait and Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 15s. 
 BATES (H. W.) Eecords of a Naturalist on the Eiver Amazon 
 
 diuing eleven years of Adventure and Travel. Illustrations. Post Svo. 
 
 BAX (Capt. E.N.). EussianTartary, Eastern Siberia, China, Japan, 
 and Formosa. A Narrative of a Cruise in the Eastern Seas. With 
 Map and Illustrations. Crown Svo. 12s. » , , ■„ i. > 
 
 BELCHEE (Lady). Account of the Mutineers of the Bounty, 
 and their Descendants: with their Settlements in Pitoaim and Norfolk 
 Islands. With lUu-zaations. Post Svo. 12s. _ _, ^ „ _ „ 
 
 BELL (Sir Chas.). Familiar Letters. Portrait. Post Svo. 12s. 
 
 * ' B 2 
 
lilST OF WORKS 
 
 BELL (Do^NB C). Kotices of the Historic Persons buried in 
 the Chnpel of St, Peter ad Vincula, in the Tower of London, with an 
 account of the discovery of the supp" sed remains of Queen Anne Boleyn . 
 With Illustrations. Crown 8Vo. 14?. 
 
 BELT (Thos.). The Naturalist in Nicaragua. A Residence at the 
 Gold Mines of Cbonfales, with Journeys in the Savannahs and Forests 
 and Observations on Animals and Plants. Illustrations. PostSvo. 12a. 
 
 BERTRAM {J as. G.). Harvest of the Sea : an Account of BritiBh 
 J'ood Fishep, including sketches of Fisheries and Fisher Folk. With 
 50 Illustrations. 8vo. 9s. 
 
 BIBLE COMMENTARY. The Old Testament. Explanatory 
 and Cbitical. "With a Rrviston of the Translation. By BISHOPS 
 and CLERGY of the ANGLICAN CHURCH. Edited by F. C. Cook, 
 M.A„ Canon of Exeter. 6 Vols. Medium 8vo. Gt. 15s. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 Vols. II. 
 and III. 
 
 3fi8, 
 
 (Genesis. 
 EXODTIS. 
 Leviticus. 
 Numbers. 
 Deutebonomt. 
 
 Joshua,' Judoes, Ruth, 
 Samuel, £ings, Chro- 
 KICLB8, Ezra, Nehemiah, 
 Estheb. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 ISs. 
 
 /■ Introduction. 
 J St. Maitheiv. 
 "j St. Mark. 
 
 I. St. Luke. 
 
 Job. 
 
 Psalms. 
 
 Proverbs. 
 I Ecclesiastes. 
 t SoNO OF Solomon. 
 ( Isaiah. 
 \ Jeremiah. 
 
 (Ezpkiel, 
 Daniel. 
 Minor Prophets. 
 The l^Ew Testament. 4 Yois. Medium 8vo. 
 /Romans, Corinthians, 
 j Galatians, Philjppians. 
 
 Vnl TTT J EfHESIANS, COLOSSIANS, 
 
 Vol. IV. 
 249. 
 
 Vol. V. 
 
 20s. 
 
 Vol. VI. 
 23s. 
 
 Vol, II. 
 
 I St. John, 
 I Acts. 
 
 The 
 John M. 
 
 ] Thbssalonian?, Philk- 
 I MAN, Pastoral Epistlks, 
 l^ Hebrews. 
 
 f St. Jambs. St. John, St. 
 Vol. IV. ■\ Peteb, St. Jude, Beve- 
 
 ( LATION. 
 
 Student's Edition, Abridged and 
 
 FuLLEE, M.A., Vicar of Bexley. (To be 
 
 Crown 8vo. 7s. €d. 
 
 Edited by 
 
 completed in 6 Volumes.) Vol. I. 
 
 BIGG-WITHER (T. P.). Pioneering in South Brazil; three years of 
 forest and prairie life in the province of Parana. Map and Illustrations. 
 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 2is. 
 
 BIRCH (Samdel). a History of Ancient Pottery and Porcelain : 
 
 Egyptian, Assyrian, Greet, Koman, and Etruscan. With Coloured 
 
 Plates and 20O Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 42«. 
 BIRD (IsiBELLi). The Hawaiian Archipelago; or Six Months 
 
 among the Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, and Volcanoes of the Sandwich 
 
 Islands. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 7s. ed. 
 BISSET (Gbhekal Sib John). Sport and War in South Africa from 
 
 1«34 to 1867, with a Narrative of the Duke of Edinburgh's Visit. 
 
 "With Map and Illustrations Crown Svo. lis. 
 BLACKSTONE'S COMMENTARIES; adapted to the Present 
 
 State of the Law. By R. Malcolm Keek, LL.D. Revised Edition, 
 
 incorporating all the Recent Chiinges in the Law. i vols, Svo. 60s. 
 BLUNT (Rev. J. J.). Undesigned Coincidences in the Writings of 
 
 the Old and NewTestamcnts.an Argument of their Veracity. Post Svo. 6«. 
 
 History of the Church in the First Three Centuries. 
 
 Post Svo. 6s. 
 
 Parish Priest; His Duties, Acquirements and Obliga- 
 tions. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 University Sermons. Post Svo. 6a. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 
 
 BLUiilT (Lady Anne). The Bedouins of the Euphrates "Valley 
 With a full acctunt of ilie Arabu and their Horses. By WiLrElD 
 TiLUNT. With Map and Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 
 
 BOSWELL'S Life of Samuel JohnBon, LL.D. Including the 
 
 Tour to the Hebrides. Edited by Mr. Crokeb. Seventh Edition, 
 Portraits. 1 vol. Medium 8vo. 12«. 
 
 BRACE (C. L.). Manual of Ethnology ; or the Eacea of the Old 
 World. J?ost8vo. 6s. 
 
 BOOK OF COMMON PRATER. Illustrated with Coloured 
 Borders, Initial Letters, and Woodcuts. 8vo. 18«. 
 
 BORROW (Georok). Bible in Spain; or the Journeys, Adventures, 
 and InipriBonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to circulate the 
 Scriptures in the Peninsula. PostSvo. 5s. 
 
 Gypsies of Spain ; their Manners, Customs, Re- 
 ligion, and Language. With Portrait. Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Layengro ; The Scholar— The Gypsy— and the Priest, 
 
 Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Romany Rye — a Sequel to " Lavengro." Post 8to. 
 
 "Wild Wales: its People, Language, and Scenery. 
 
 Post 8vo. 5«. 
 Romano Lavo-Lil ; Word-Book of the Romany, or 
 
 English Gypsy Language; with Specimens of their Poetry, and an 
 
 account of certain Gypsyries. PostSvo. lOi. 6d. 
 
 BRAT (Mks.). Life of Thomas Stothard, R.A. 
 
 and 60 Woodcuts. 4to. 21s. 
 BRITISH ASSOCIATION REPORTS. 8vo. 
 
 York and Oxford, 1831-32, 13s. 6d ' " '" 
 
 Cambridge, 1838, 12s. 
 
 Edinburgh, 1834, 16s. 
 
 Dublin, 1886, 13s. 6d. 
 
 Bristol, 1886, 12s. 
 
 Liverpool, 1837. 16s. 6d. 
 
 Newcastle, 1838, 15s. 
 
 Birmingham, 1839, 13s. 6<J. 
 
 Glasgow, 1840, 16s. 
 
 Plymouth, 1841, 13s. Bd. 
 
 Manchester, 1842, 10s. 6d. 
 
 Cork, 1843, 12s. 
 
 York, 1844, 20s. 
 
 Cambridge, 1845,12s. 
 
 Southampton, 1846, 15s. 
 
 Oxford, 1847, 18s. 
 
 Swansea, 1818, 9s. 
 
 Birmingham, 1849, 10s. 
 
 Edinburgh, 1860, 15s. 
 
 Ipswich, 1851, IBs. id. 
 
 Belfast, 1S52, 15s. 
 
 Hull, 1853, 10s. 6i. 
 
 Liverpool, 1854, 18s, 
 
 With Portrait 
 
 Glasgow, 1855, 15s. 
 Cheltenham, 1856, 18s. 
 Dublin, IS&T, 15s. 
 Leeds. 1858. 20s. 
 Aberdeen, 1859, 15s. 
 Oxford, 1860, 25s. 
 Manchester, 1861, 15s. 
 Cambridge, 1862, 20s. 
 Newcastle, 1863, 26s. 
 Bath, 1864, 18s. 
 Birmingham, 1865, 25s 
 Nottingiiam, 1866, 24s. 
 Dundee, 1S67, 26s. 
 Norwich, 1868, 25«. 
 Exeter, 1869, 22». 
 Liverpool, 1870, 18s. 
 Edinburgh, 1871, 16s. 
 BriKluon, 1872. 24s. 
 Bradford, 1873, 25s. 
 Belfast, 1874. 2)S. 
 Bristol, 1875, 253. 
 GlasKOvv. 1876, 26s. 
 Plymouih, 1877, 248. 
 
 BRIJGSCl7""ipK'o.'.ssoK). A ^K^tory f /|yP^,l"if„„t 
 
 DANBif SE-STMOua and PHILIP Smith, B.A. 2 vols, 
 
 TiTTrTfT FY /'Arabella B V A Short History of Natural Science, 
 ^^^''^n^d^h&'esrof'y.^covery from the time of the Greeks to the 
 present day. lUustiatiuns. Post 8vo. Vs. 
 
LIST OF WORKS 
 
 BUNBOEY (E. H.) An Historical Geography of the Ancient 
 World. 2 Vol9. 8vo. [In the Press. 
 
 BUECKHAEDT'S Cicerone ; or Art Guide to Painting in Italy. 
 
 Translated from the German by Mrs. A. Clough. Post 8vo. 68. 
 
 BUEGOIf (Rev. J. W.). Christian Gentleman; or, Memoir of 
 Patrick Fraser Tytler. Post 8vo. 9«. 
 
 BUEW (CoL.). Dictionary of Naval and Military Technical 
 Terms, English and French — French and English. Crown 8vo. 16«. 
 
 BUTTMANN'S Lexilogus; a Critical Examination of the 
 Meaning of numerous Greek Words, chiefly in Homer and Hesiod. 
 By Bev. J. B. Fishlake. Sto. 12s. 
 
 Irregular Greek Verbs. With all the Tenses 
 
 extant — ^their Formation, Meaning, and Usage, with Notes, by Bev, 
 
 J. B. FiSHLASB. Post Svo, 6s. 
 
 BUZTON (Charles). Memoirs of Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton, 
 ^art. With Selections from his Correspondence. Portrait. Svo. 16s. 
 Popular Edition, Fcap. 8vo. 5t, 
 
 Ideas of the Day. 8ro. 6s. 
 
 BTLES (SiK John). Foundations of Eeligion in the Mind and 
 Heart of Man. Post Svo. 6s. 
 
 BYEON'S (Lord) LIFE AND WORKS :— 
 
 Lira, Letters, ahd Journals. By Thomas Moobb. Cabinet 
 Editiwi. Plates. 6 Vols. Fcap. Svo. 18a. ; or One Volume, Portraits. 
 Eoyal 8vo., 7s. 6c!. 
 
 Life and Poetical Works. Popular Edition. Portraits. 
 
 2 vols. Eoyal Svo. 15s. > 
 
 Poetical Works. Library Edition. Portrait. 6 Vols. Svo. 45». 
 
 Poetical Works. Cabinet Edition. Plates. 10 Vols. 12mo. 30s. 
 
 Poetical Works. Pocket Ed. 8 Vols. 16mo. In a case. 21s. 
 
 Poetical Works. Popular Edition. Plates. Eoyal Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Poetical Works. Pearl Edition. Croim Svo. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Childe Harold. With SO Engravings. Crown Svo. 12s. 
 
 Childe Harold. 16mo. 2s. %d. 
 
 Childe Harold. Vignettes. 16mo. Is. 
 
 Childe Harold. Portrait. 16mo. 6d. 
 
 Tales and Poems. 16mo. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Misoellaneocs. 2 Vols. 16mo. 5s. 
 
 Dramas and Plats. 2 Vols. 16mo. 6s. 
 
 Don Juan and Beppo. 2 Vols. 16mo. Bs. 
 
 Beauties. Poetry and Prose. Portrait. Fcap. Svo. 3s. Gd. 
 
 CALLCOTT (Lady). Little Arthur's History of England. 
 
 New Edition, brought down to 1872. With Woodcuts. Fcap. Svo. Is. 6d. 
 
 CAMPBELL (Lord). Lord Chancellors and Keepers of the 
 Great Seal of England. From the Earliest Times to the Death of Lord 
 Eldon in 1S3S. 10 Vols. Crown Svo. 6s. each. 
 
 Chief Justices of England. From the Norman 
 
 Conquest to the Death of Lord Tenterden. 4 Vols. Crown Svo. 6s, each. 
 ' ' Lord Bacon. Fcap. Svo. 2s. 6d. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 
 
 '^^''^i^ri P^:;^. JT^^' «^l'-' -d the 6as,.e 
 
 Teaclimg. An Historical Sketch. 8vo. 9s. 
 
 CAYALCASELLE'S WORKS. [See Cbowe.] 
 
 CESNOLA (Gen.). Cyprus ; its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Tem- 
 ples. Researches and Excavations d iiring Ten Years' Eesidence in that 
 island. With Map and 400 Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 50s. 
 
 CHILD (Chaplin). Benedicite; or. Song of the Three Children ; 
 
 heing IllustrationB of the Power, Benefloence, and Design manifested 
 by the Creator in his works. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 CHISHOLM (Mrs.). Perils of the Polar Seas ; True Stories of 
 
 Arctic Discovery and Adventure. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6i. 
 
 CHUETOK (Akohdeaook). Poetical Eemains, Translations and 
 Imitationa. Portrait. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 CLASSIC PEEACHBES 01" THE ENGLISH CHFECH. 
 
 St. James's Lectures, 1877. Dosse, by Canon Lightfoot ; Babeow, 
 by Prof. Wace ; South, by the Dean of Durham; Bevehidge, 
 by Rev. W. R. Clark; ■Wiiso.-J, by Canon Farrar; Butlee, by 
 the Dean of Norwich. With an Introduction by J. £. Kempe, M.A., 
 Rector. Post 8to. 7s. ed. 
 
 1878, Boil, by Eey. W. Warburton ; Hokslet, by the 
 
 Bishop of Ely; Tatloe, by Canon Barry; Sandeesoh, by the Bishop 
 of DeiTy ; Tillotson, by Rev. W. G. Humphry, B.L>. ; Andeewes, 
 bv Eev. H. J. North. Post 8vo. 7s. id. 
 
 CLIYE'S (Lord) Life. By Eet. G. E. Gleiq. Post 8vo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 CLODE (C. M.). Military Forces of the Crown ; their Administra- 
 tion and Government. 2 Vols. 8to. 21s. each. 
 
 • — Administration of Justice under Military and Martial 
 
 Law, as applicable to the Army, Navy, Marine, and Auxiliary Forces. 
 8vo. I2i. 
 
 COLERIDGE'S (Samcel Taylor) Table-Talk. Portrait. 12mo. 3s.6d. 
 
 COLONIAL LIBEAET. [See Home and Colonial Library.] 
 
 COMPAliTIONS FOE THE DBYOUT LIFE. A Series of Lec- 
 tures on -well-known Devotional Works. Crown 8to. 6s. 
 
 DeimjtationeCheisti, Canon Farrar. 
 PEHfSEs OP Blaise Pascal. Dean 
 
 Church. 
 S. FEANpois DE Sales. Dean 
 
 Goulburo. 
 Baxtke'b Saists' Rest. Archbishop 
 
 of Dnblin. 
 S. Augustine's Concessions. Bishop 
 
 of Deriy. 
 Jebemt Tatloe's Holt Litikg and 
 
 Dying. Eev. Dr. Humphry. 
 
 Theologia Geemanica. Canon 
 
 Ashwell. 
 FSnelon's CEtrvans Spieituelles. 
 
 Eev. T.T.Carter. 
 Andeewes' Devotions. Bishop of 
 
 Ely. 
 Cheistiak Yeab. Canon Barry. 
 PAKADiaK Lost. Eev. E. H. Bicker- 
 
 steth. 
 Pjlgbim's Peoobebs. Dean Howsou. 
 Peateb Book. Dean Burgon. 
 
LIST OF WORKS 
 
 COOK (Canon). Sermons Preached at Lincoln's Inn. 8to. 9s. 
 
 COOKE (E. W.). Leaves from my Sketch-Book. Being a selec- 
 tion from fiketches made during many tours. With Descriptive Text. 
 60 FlaieH. 2 vols. Small folio, 31s. ed. each. 
 
 COOKERY (Modern Domestic). Founded on Principles of Economy 
 and Practical Knowledge. By a Lady. Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 5«. 
 
 COOPER (T. T.). Travels of a Pioneer of Commerce on an 
 Overland Journey from China towards India. Illustrations. 8vo. 16s. 
 
 CEABBE (Rev. Geokoe). Life and Poetical Works. With lUus- 
 
 tratlong. Royal 8vo. 7«. 
 
 CRAWFORD & BAI:CARRES (Earl of). Etruscan Inscriptions. 
 
 Analyzed, Translated, and Commented upon. 8vo. 12s. 
 CEIPPS (Wilfkee). Old English Plate : Ecclesiastical, Decsrative, 
 and Domestic, its makers and marks. Illustrations, Medium 8vo. 21s. 
 
 CEOKER (J. W.). Progressive Geography for Children. 
 
 18mo. Is. ed. 
 
 Stories for Children, Selected from the History of 
 
 England. Woodcuts. 16mo. 2b. 6d. 
 
 Boswell's Life of Johnson. Including the Tour to 
 
 the Hebrides. Seventh Edition. Portraits. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 ■ — ■ Early Period of the French Revolution. 8vo. 15s. 
 
 ■■ Historical Essay on the Guillotine. Foap. 8vo. 1«. 
 
 CROWE AND CAVALCASELLE. Lives of the Early Flemish 
 Painters. Woodcuts. Post 8vo, 10s. 6d, ; or Large Paper, 8vo, 15s. 
 
 History of Painting in North Italy, from 14th to 
 
 16th Century. Derived from Besearches in that Country. With Il- 
 lustrations, 2 Vols. 8vo. 42s. 
 
 Life and Times of Titian, ivith some Account of his 
 
 Family, cliiefly from new and unpublibhed records. With Portrait and 
 Illustrations. 2 vols. Bvo. 42s. 
 
 GUMMING (R. Gordon). Five Years of a Hunter's Life in the 
 Far Interior of 8outh Africa, Woodcuts. Post 8to. 6s. 
 
 CUNYNGHAME (Sir Arthur). Travels in the Eastern Caucasus, 
 on the Caspian and Bisck Seas, in Daghestan and the Frontiers of 
 Persia and Turkey. With Map and Illustrations. 8vo. 18s. 
 
 CUETIUS' (Professor) Student's Greek Grammar, for the Upper 
 
 Forms. Edited by De. Wm. Smith. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 Elucidations of the above Grammar. Translated by 
 
 Evelyn Abbot. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 Smaller Greek Grammar for the Middle and Lower 
 
 Forms. Abridged from the larger work. 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 ' Accidence of the Greek Language. Extracted from 
 
 the above work. 12mo. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Principles of Greek Etymology. Translated by A. S. 
 
 WiLKiNS M.A., and E. B. England, B.A. 2 vols. 8vo. 15s. each. 
 
 The Greek Verb, its Structure and Development. 
 
 Translated into English, with the Author's sanction, by A. S. Wilkins, 
 M,A., and E. B. England, M.A. 8vo. 
 
 CUEZON (Hon. Robert). Visits to the Monasteries of the Levant. 
 
 Illnstrations. Post 8to. 7s. 6d. 
 CUST (GENERii). Warriors of the 17th Century— The Thirty Years' 
 
 War. 2 Vols. 16s, Civil Wars of France and England. 2 Vols. 16». 
 
 Commanders of Fleets and Armies, 2 Vols, ]8s. 
 Annals of the Wars — 18th & 19th Century, 
 
 1700—1816, With Maps. * Vols. Post8vo. 6s. each. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 
 
 DAVY (Sir Homphkt). Consolations in Travel; or. Last Days 
 of a. Plulosopher. Woodcuts. Tcap. Svo. 3s. ed. 
 
 Salmonia; or. Days of Fly Fishing. Woodcuts. 
 
 reap. Svo. 3s. ed. 
 
 DAKWIN (Chaeles) WORKS :— 
 
 JOURKAL OF A NATURALIST DUKINO A VoTASE HODKD THE 
 WoELD. Crown Svo. 9s. 
 
 Oeigin OP Species by Means of Natural Selection; or, tlie 
 Preservation of Favoured Kaoea in the Struggle for Life. Woodcuts. 
 Crown Svo. 7i. 6d. 
 
 Variation of Animals and Plants under Domestication. 
 Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Crown Svo. 18s. 
 
 Descent op Man, and Selection in Eelation to Sex. 
 Woodcuts. Crown Svo. 9s. 
 
 Expressions op the Emotions in Man and Animals. With 
 Illustrations. Crown Svo. 12s. 
 
 Various Contrivances by which Orchids are Fertilized 
 BY Insects. Woodcuts. Crown Svo. 9s. 
 
 Movements and Habits op CLiMEisa Plants. Woodcuts, 
 Crown Svo. 6s. 
 
 Insectivorous Plants. Woodcuts. Crown Svo. lis. 
 
 Effects op Cross and Self-Fertilization in the Vegetable 
 Kingdom. Crown Svo. 12s. 
 
 Different Forms of Flowers on Plants of the same 
 Species. Crown Svo. 10a. 6d. * 
 
 Facts and Argument for Darwin. By Fritz Mullee. 
 Translated by W. S. Dallas. Woodcuta. Post Svo. 6s. 
 
 DE COSSON (B. a.). The Cradle of the Blue Nile; a Journey 
 through Abyssinia and Soudan, and a residence at the Court of King 
 J ohn of Ethiopia. Map and Illustrations. 2vols. FostSvo. 21s. 
 
 DENNIS (George). The Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria. A 
 new Edition, revised, recording? all Ihe latest Discoveries. "With 20 
 Plans and 200 Illustrations. 2 vols. Medium Svo. 4l's. 
 
 DENT (Emma). Annala of Winchcombe and Sudeley. With 120 
 Portraits, Plates and Woodcuts. 4to. 42s. 
 
 DERBY (Earl of). Iliad of Homer rendered- into English 
 Blank Verse. lOtJ, Mitim. With Portrait. 2 Vols. Post Svo. 10s. 
 
 DEPiEY (Bishop op). Witness of the Psalms to Christ and Chris- 
 tianity. The Bampton Lectures for 1876. New and e/ilarged Edition. 
 Svo. 14'. 
 
 DEUTSCH (Emanuel). Talmud, Islam, The Targums and other 
 Literary Remains. Svo. 12s. 
 
 DILKE (Sir C. W.). Papers of a Critic. Selected from the 
 Writings of the late Ch,<6. Wentwoeth Dilke. With a Biographi- 
 cal Sketch. 2 Vols. Svo. 24s. 
 
 DOQ-BREAKING, wilh Odds and Ends for those who love the 
 Bog and Gun. By Gen. IIutcuinson. With 40 Illustrations. 
 Ci own Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
10 LIST OF WORKS 
 
 DOMESTIC MODEEN COOKEKY. Founded on Principles of 
 Economy and Fra<!tical Knowledge, and adapted for Private Families. 
 Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 5s. - 
 
 DOUGLAS'S (Sir Howard) Life and Adventures. Portrait. 8to. 15s. 
 
 Theory and Practice of Gunnery. Plates. 8vo. 21s. 
 
 Construction of Bridges and the Passage of Elvers 
 
 in Military Operations. PlateB. 8vo. 21s. 
 
 (Wm.) Horse-Shoeiug ; As it Is, and As it Should be. 
 
 IlliiBtrations. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d, 
 
 DEAKE'S (Sir Fkanois) Life, Voyages, and Exploits, by Sea and 
 
 Land. By John Baqbow. Post 8vo. 2s. 
 DEINKWATEE (John). History of the Siege of Gibraltar, 
 
 1779-1788. With a Description and Account of that Garrison fixim the 
 
 Earliest Periods. Post Svo. 2s. 
 
 DUCANGE'S MEDiiETAL Latis-Ehglish Dictiohakt. Translated 
 
 and Edited by Kev. £. A. Da yuan and J. H. Hebsbls. Small 4to. 
 
 [In preparation, 
 
 DF CHAILLU (Paul B.). Equatorial Africa, with Accounts 
 of the Gorilla, the Nest-buiiding Ape, Chimpanzee, Crocodile, &c. 
 lUuBtratiens. Svo. 21s. 
 
 — Journey to Ashango Land; and Further Pene- 
 tration into Equatorial Africa. Illustrations. Svo. 21s. 
 
 DCFFFEEIlSr (Lord). Letters from. High Latitudes; a Yacht 
 Voyage to Iceland, Jan Mayen, and Spitzhergen. Woodcuts. Post 
 Svo. 7s. 6i. 
 
 DUNCAN (Major). History of the Eojal Artillery. Com- 
 piled from the Original Records. With Portraits. 2 Vols. Svo. 30». 
 
 ■ ' EngliBh in Spain; or, The Story of the War of Sue- 
 cession, 1834 and 1840. Compiled from the Reports of the British 
 Commissioners With Illustrations. Svo. 16s. 
 
 EASTLAKE (Sir Charles). Contributions to the Literature of 
 the Fine Arts. With Memoir of the Author, and Selections from his 
 Correspondence. By Lady Eaett.ake, 2 Vols. Svo. 24s, 
 
 EDWAEDS CW. H.). Voyage up the Eiver Amazon, including a 
 Visit to Para. Post Svo. 2s. 
 
 BIGHT MONTHS AT EOME,' during the Vatican Council, with 
 a Daily Account of the Proceedings. By Pomponio Leto. Trans- 
 lated from the Original. Svo. 12s. 
 
 ELDON'S (Lord) Public and Private Life, with Selections from 
 his Correspondence and Diaries. By Hobaoe TwiBS. Portrait. 2 
 Vols. Post Svo. 21». 
 
 ELGIN (Lord). Letters and Journals. Edited by Theodore 
 Walrond. With Preface by Dean Stanley. Svo. 14s. 
 
 ELLESMEEE (Lord). Two Sieges of Vienna by the Turks. 
 Translated from the German. Post Svo. 2s. 
 
 ELLIS (W.). Madagascar Eevlsited. Setting forth the Perse- 
 cutions and Heroic Sufferings of the Native Christians. Illustrations. 
 Svo. 16s. 
 
 Memoir. By His Son. With his 'Character and 
 
 Work. By Eev. Beney Allon, D.D. Portrait. Svo. 10s. ed. 
 
 (EoEiKsoN) Poems and Fragments of Catullus. 16mo. 5s. 
 
 ELPHINSTONE (Hon. MonirasxnART). History of India— the 
 Hindoo and Mahomedan Periods. Edited by Pbofessob Cowell. 
 Map. Svo. ISs. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 11 
 
 ELPHINSTOKE (H. W.) Patterns for TurniDg; Comprising 
 Elliptical and other Figures cut on the LaOie without the use of any 
 Urnamental Chuck. With 70 lUustrations. Small 4to. 16s. 
 
 ELTOK (Capt.) and H. B. COTTEEILL. Adventures and 
 Discoveries Among the Lakes and Moantains of Eastern and Central 
 Africa. With Map aud Illustrations. 8vo. 
 
 ENGLAND. See Calloott, Crokee, Hume, Markham, Smiih, 
 
 and Stanhope. 
 
 ESSAYS ON CATHEDKALS. With an Introduction. By 
 Dean Howson. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 EliZE (Kaki.). Life of Lord Byron. With a Critical Essay on his 
 Place in Literature. Translated from the German. With Portrait. 8vo. 16*. 
 
 rBKGUSSON (James). History of Architecture In all Countries 
 fi:om the Earliest Times. With 1,600 IlluBtrations. 4 Vols. Medium 8vo. 
 Vol. I. & II. Ancient and Mediaeval. 63«. 
 Yol. III. Indian & Eastern. 42s. Vol. I"V . Modern. 31s. 6c?. 
 
 ., Eude Stone Monuments in all Countries; their Age 
 
 and Uses. With 230 Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 24s. 
 
 — •Holy Sepulchre and the Temple at Jerusalem. 
 
 Woodcuts. 8vo. 7s. ed. 
 
 Temples of the Jews and other buildings in 
 
 the Haram Area at Jerusalem, With Illustrations. 4to. 42s. 
 PLEMING (Pbopessok). Student's Manual of Moral Philosophy. 
 
 With Quotations and References. Post 8vo. 7s. ed. 
 PLOWEE 6AEDEN. By Eev. Thos. James. Pcap. 8vo. Is. 
 
 P0EBE3 (Capt. C. J. P. S.) British Burma and its People; 
 
 sketches of Native Manners, Customs, and Kellgion. Cr. 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 FOED (Eiohaed). Gatherings from Spain. Post 8to. 8«. 6d. 
 FOESYTH (William). Hortensius; an Historical Essay on the 
 Office and Duties of an Advocate. Illustrations. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Novels and Novelists of the 18th Century, in 
 
 Illustrationof the Manners and Morals of ihe Age. Post 8vo. lOs.ed. 
 
 POETUNE (EoBEET) . Narrative of Two Visits to the Tea Countries 
 
 of China, 1843-52. Woodcuia. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 18s. 
 POESTEE (John). The Early Life of Jonathan Swift. 1667-1711. 
 
 With Portrait. 8vo. 15s. 
 FOSS (Edward). Biographia Juridica, or Biographical Dictionary 
 of tke Judges of England, from the Conquest to the Present Time, 
 1066-1870. Medium 8vo. 21s. 
 
 FRANCE (HisioBT of). See Markham— Smith— Students'. 
 FEENCH IN ALGIERS; The Soldier of the Poreign Legion— 
 
 andthePriBonersefAbd-el-Kadir. Tranalated by Lady Duff Goedos. 
 
 PostSvo. 2s. 
 FEEEE (SiB Baetle). Indian Missions. Small 8vo. 2s. 6d. 
 Eastern Africa as a field for Missionary Labour. With 
 
 Map. Crown 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Bengal Pamine. How it will be Met and Ho^ to 
 
 o ijt/j+i, TJlana Trown 8vo. OS. 
 
 Prevent future Famines in India. With Maps. Crown 8vo. 
 
12 LIST OF WORKS 
 
 GALTON (F.). Art of Travel ; or. Hints on the Shifts and Con- 
 trivances available in Wild Countries. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7a, 6d. 
 
 GEOGRAPHY. See Crokeb— Smith— Students'. 
 
 GEOGEAPHICAU SOCIETY'S JOURNAL. {Pvhlislied Yearly) 
 
 GEORGE (Ernest). The Mosel ; a Series of Twenty Etchings, with 
 Descriptive Letterpress. Imperial 4to. 42s, 
 
 Loire and South of f ranee; a Series of Twenty 
 
 Etchings, with Descriptive Text. Folio. 423. 
 
 GERMANY (History of). See Markham. 
 
 GIBBON (Edward). History of the Decline and Fall of the 
 
 Eoman Empire. Edited by Milman, Guizot, and Dr. Wm. Suith. 
 
 Maps. 8 Vols. 8vo. 60s. 
 The Student's Edition ; an Epitome of the above 
 
 work, incorporating the Kesearcbes of Recent Commentators. By Dr. 
 
 Wm. Smith. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7«. 6d. 
 GIPFARD (Edward). Deeds of Naval Daring ; or. Anecdotes of 
 
 the British Navy. Fcap. 8vo. S«. M. 
 
 GILL (Mrs.). Six Months in Ascension. An TJnscientific Ac- 
 count of a Scientific Expedition. Map. Crown 8vo. 9s, 
 
 GLADSTONE (W. B.). Rome and the Newest Fashions in 
 Keligion. Three Tracts. 8vo, 7s. Gd. 
 
 Essays. I, Personal and Literary. II. Ecclesi- 
 astical and TheologicaL III. European and Uistorical. Small Svo. 
 
 GLEIG (G. E.). Campaigns of the British Army at Washington 
 and New Orleans. Post 8vo. 2s. 
 
 Story of the Battle of Waterloo. Post 8vo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Narrative of Sale's Brigade in Affghaniatan. Post 8vo. 2«. 
 
 Life of Lord Clive. Post 8vo. 3«. M. 
 
 ^ir Thomas Munro. Post Svo. 3s. M. 
 
 GLYNNE (Sir Stephen R.). Notes on the Churches of Kent. 
 
 With Preface by W. H. Gladstone, M.P. Illustrations. Svo. 12s. 
 GOLDSMITH'S (Oliver) Works. Edited with Notes by Peter 
 
 CnNNiiTGHAM. Vignettes. 4 Vols. 8vo. 30s. 
 GORDON (Sir Alex.). Sketches of German Life, and Scenes 
 
 from the War of Liberation. Post Svo. 3s. Qd. 
 
 (Lady Ddef) Amber- Witch : A Trial for Witch- 
 craft. Post Svo. 2s. 
 
 French in Algiers. 1. The Soldier of the Foreign 
 
 Legion. 2. The Prisoners of Abd-el-Kadir. Post Svo. 2s. 
 GRAMMARS. See Curtius ; Hall ; Kisa Edward ; MATTHi,aj 
 
 Maetzner; Smith. 
 GREECE (History of). See Gkote—Sjiith— Students'. 
 GROTE'S (Georob) WORKS :— 
 
 History of Greece. From the Earliest Times to the close 
 
 of the generation contemporary with the death of Alexander the Great. 
 
 Library Edition. Portrait, Maps, and Plans. 10 Vols. Svo. 120s. 
 
 Cabinet Edition. Portrait and Plans. 12 Vols. Post Svo. 6s. each. 
 
 Plato, and other Companions of Socrates. 3 Vols. Svo. 45». 
 
 Minor Works. With Critical Remarks. By Alex. Bain. 
 
 Portrait, Svo, 14s, 
 Letters on Switzerland in 18i7. 6s. 
 .Personal Life. Compiled from Family Documents, Original 
 Letters, &c. By Mrs. Gkote. Portrait. Svo. 128. 
 
PUBLISHISD BY MR. MURRAY. 13 
 
 HALL'S (T. X>.) School Manual of Engliah Grammar. With 
 Copious ExerciseB. 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Primary English Grammar for Elementary Schools. 
 
 Based on the above work. 16mo. Is, 
 
 Child's First Latin Book, including a Systematic Treat- 
 ment of the NewProminciation, and a full Praxis of Nouns, Adiec 
 tires, and Pronouns. 16mo. la. 6d, 
 
 HALLAM'S (Hehkt) WORKS :— 
 
 The CoNSTiTnTioiTAL History of Ensiand, from the Acces- 
 sion of Henry the Seventh to the Death of George the Second. Cabmet 
 Sdition, 3 Vols. PostSvo. 12s. 
 
 Student's Edition of the ahove work. Edited by Wai. 
 Smith, D.C.L. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 HiSTOKT OP EuKOPE DURiuo THE MiDDLE AoES. Library 
 Edilum. 3 Vols. 8vo. 30s. CcMnet Edition 3 Vols. Post 8vo. 128. 
 
 Student's Edition of the aboye work. Edited by Wm. 
 Smith, D.CL. Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 LiTEKAKT History of Europe durins the 15th, 16ih, and 
 17th Centuetks. Library Edition. 3 Vols. Svo. 36s. Cabinet Edition, 
 4 Vols. Post Svo. 16s. 
 
 HALLAM'S (Arthur) Literary Kemajns; in Verse and Prose. 
 Portrait. Fcap. Svo. 3«. 6d. 
 
 HAMILTON (Gen. Sir E. W.). History of the Grenadier Guards. 
 From Original Dncranents in the Bolls' Records, War Office, Regimental 
 Records, &o. With lUastrations. 3 Vols. Svo. 63s. 
 
 HAKT'S AKMT LIST. {Published Quarterly and Annually.) 
 
 HAY (SiE J. H. Drummond). Western Barbary, its Wild Tribes 
 and Savage Animals. Post Svo. 2s, 
 
 HEAD'S (Sir Eranois) WORKS :— 
 
 The Eotal Engineer. Illustrations. Svo. 12s. 
 Life of Sir John Burgotke. Post Svo. la. 
 Rapid Journeys across the Pampas. Post Svo. 2s. 
 
 Bubbles prom the Brunnen op Nassau. Illustrations. Post 
 
 Svo. 71. ed. 
 Stoeeks and Pokers ; or, the London and North Western 
 Railway. Post Svo. 2s. 
 HEBER'S (Bishop) Journals in India. 2 Vols. Post Svo. 7*. 
 
 Poetical Works. Portrait. Pcap. Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 ——— Hymns adapted to the Church Service. 16mo. Is. 6d. 
 
14 LIST OF WORKS 
 
 FOREIGN HANDBOOKS. 
 
 HAND-BOOK — TEATEL-TALK. English, French, Gei»man, and 
 Italian. 18mo. 8s. 6d. 
 
 HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. Map and Plans. 
 
 Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 NORTH GERMANY and THE EHINB,- 
 
 The Black Forest, the Ha,rtz, Thurlnserwald, Saxon Switzerland, 
 Ktigen the Giant Mountains, Taunus, Odenwald, Elass, and Loth- 
 rin|en. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 10s. 
 
 SOUTH GERMANY, — Wurtembnrg, Bavaria, 
 
 Austria, Styria, Salzbnrg, the Austrian and Bavarian Alps, Tyrol, Hun- 
 gary, and the Danube, from Ulm to the Black Sea. Map. Post 8vo. 10«. 
 PAINTING. German, Plemish, and Dutch Schools. 
 
 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 2iir. 
 
 LIVES OP EARLY FLEMISH PAINTERS. By 
 
 Cbowe and Cataioaselle. lUuBtrations. Post Svo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 SWITZERLAND, Alps of Saroy, and Piedmont. 
 
 Maps. Post Svo. 9«. 
 
 -FRANCE, Part I. Normandy, Brittany, the French 
 
 Alps, the Loire, the Seine, the Garonne, and Pyrenees. Post Svo. 7s. 6*. 
 Part II. Central France, Auvergne, the 
 
 Cevennes, Burgundy, the Rhone and Saone, Provence, Nimes, Aries, 
 Marseilles, the French Alps, Alsace, Lorraine, Champagne, &c. Maps. 
 Past Svo. 7s. e*. 
 
 MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS— Malta, Corsica, 
 
 Sardinia, and Sicily. Maps. Post Svo. \ln the Presa. 
 
 ALGERIA AND TUNIS. Algiers, Constantino, 
 
 Oran, the AtUs Range. Map. Post Svo. 
 
 PARIS, and its Environs. Map. 16mo. ,3s. M. 
 
 SPAIN, Madrid, The Caatiles, The Basque Provinces, 
 
 Leon, The Asturias, Galicia, Estremadura, Andalusia, Ronda, Granada, 
 Murcia, Valencia, Catalonia, Aragon, Navarre, The Balearic Islands^ 
 JEC.&c. Maps. Post Svo. 20s. 
 
 PORTUGAL, Lisbon, Porto, Cintra, Mafra, &c. 
 
 Map. Post Svo. 12s. 
 
 NORTH ITALY, Tarin, Milan, Cremona, the 
 
 Italian Lakes, Bergamo, Brescia, Verona, Mantua, Vicenza, Padua, 
 Ferrara, Bologna, Ravenna, Rimini, Piacenza, Genoa, the Riviera, 
 Venice, Parma, Modena, ani Romagna, Map. Post Svo. 10s. 
 
 — : CENTRAL ITALY, Florence, Lucca, Tuscany, The 
 
 Marchea,Umbiia, and late Patrimosy of St. Peter's. Map. Post Svo. IDs. 
 
 ROME AND ITS Ekviroks, Map. Post 8to. 10«, 
 
 SOUTH ITALY, Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, 
 
 and Vesuvius. Map. Post Svo. 10s. 
 
 PAINTING. The Italian Schools. Illustrations. 
 
 2 Vols. Post Svo. 
 
 ^ILIVES OP ITALIAN PAINTERS, ekom Cimaede 
 
 to Bassaito. By Mrs. Jameson. Portraits. Post Svo. 12s. 
 
 NORWAY, Christiania, Bergen, Trondhjem. The 
 
 Fjelds and Fjords. Map. Post Svo. 9s. 
 
 SWEDEN, Stockholm, Upsala, Gothenburg, the 
 
 Shores of the Baltic, &c. Post Svo. 8s. 
 
 — DENMARK, Sleswig, H olstein, ' Copenhagen, Jut- 
 land, Iceland. Map, Post Svo. 6s. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 15 
 
 HAND-BOOK— RUSSIA, St. PBTBHSBURa, Moscow, Poland, and 
 
 Finland. Maps. Post 8vo. 18«. 
 
 GREECE, the Ionian Islands, Continental Greece, 
 
 Athena, the Pelipoanesua, the Islands of the JEgean Sea, Albania, 
 Thesaaly, and Macedoaia. Maps, Post 8vo. 15s. 
 
 T[JRKET IN ASIA— CoNSTAKTiNOPLs;, the Boe- 
 
 phorus, Dardanelles, Brousa, Plain of Troy, Crete, Cyprus, Smyrna, 
 Ephesus, the Seven Churches, Coasts of the Black Sea, Armenia, 
 Euphrates Va^Uey, Route to India, &c. Maps. PostSvo. 15s. 
 
 EGYPT, including Descriptions of the Course of 
 
 the Nile through £<^pt and Nubia, Alexandria, Cairo, and Thebes, the 
 Suez Canal, the Pyramids, the Peuiufiula of Sinai, the Oases, the 
 Fyoom, &c. Map. Post 8vo. 15«. 
 
 HOLY LAND — Syria, Palestine, Peninsula of 
 
 Sinai, Edoro, Syrian Deserts, Petra, DamaBcus ; and Palmyra, Maps 
 PoBtSvo. 20s. *** Travelling Map of Palestine. In a case. 12s, 
 
 INDIA — Bombay and Madras. Map. 2 Vols. 
 
 Post 8vo. 12a. each. 
 
 ENGLISH HANDBOOKS. 
 
 HAND-BOOK— ENGLAND AND WALES. An Alphabetical 
 
 Hand-Book. Condensed into One "Volume for the Use of Travellers. 
 
 With a Map Post 8vo. 10.?. 
 
 MODERN LONDON. Map. 16mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 ENTIRONS OF LONDON within a circuit of 20 
 
 miles. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 2U. 
 
 EASTERN COUNTIES, Chelmsford, Harwich, Col 
 
 Chester, Maldon, Cambridge, Ely, Newmarket, Bury St. Edmunds, 
 Ipswich, Woodbridge, Felixstowe, Lowestoft, Norwich, Yarmouth, 
 Cromer,' &c. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 12s. 
 
 CATHEDRALS of Oxford, Peterborough, Norwich, 
 
 Ely, and Lincoln. With 90 Illustrations. Crown 8to. 18». 
 
 KENT, Canterbury, Dover, Ramegate, Sheernees, 
 
 ^. .. -»«r_-l — :-%. ^<r».. T>rto> Own To Rri 
 
 Rochester, Chatham, Woolwich. Map. Post 8vo. Is.^A. 
 
 ■ SUSSEX, Brighton, Chichester, "Worthing, Hastingg, 
 
 Lewes, Arundel, &o. Map. Post 8vo. 6s. „ , „ 
 
 SURREY AND HANTS, Kingston, Croydon, Eei- 
 
 aate Guildford, Dorking, Boxhill, Winchester, Southampton, Neiv 
 Forest Portsmouth, and Isle or Wight. Maps. Post 8vo. 10s. 
 
 ' BERKS, BUCKS, AND OXON, Windsor, Eton, 
 
 Readine Aylesbury, Uxbridge, Wycombe, Henley, the City and Uni 
 versity of Oxford, Blenheim, and the Descent of the Thames. Map. 
 
 i!!!!!°WILTS, DORSET, AND SOMERSET, Salisbury, 
 Chippenham, Weymouth. Sherborne, Wells, Bath, Bristol, Taunton, 
 &c Man Post 8vo. 10s. 
 • DEVON AND CORNWALL, Exeter, Ilfracombe, 
 
 Linton, Sidmouth, Dawlish, Teignmouth, Plyniouth Deyonport, Tor- 
 quay, Lannceston, Truro, Penzance, Falmouth, the Lizard, Land's End, 
 
 _^!l-^CATHEDRALS of 'Winchester, Salisbury, Exeter, 
 Wells Chichester, Rochester. Canterhury, and St. Albans. With 130 
 nSatSna. 2Tol3. Crown 8vo. 36s. St. Albans separately, crown 
 
 ^''°- ^'' GLOUCESTER, HEREFORD, and WORCESTER 
 rirenoeater Cheltenham, Strond, Tewkesbury, Leominster Kosa, Mal- 
 ^ern^Kidderminsrer, Dudley, Bromsgroye, Eresbam. Map. PostSvo. 9s. 
 
le LIST OF WORKS 
 
 HAND-BOOK — CATHEDRALS of BriBtol, Gloncester, Hereford, 
 
 Worcester, and Lichfield. With 50 lUustrationa. Crown 8to. 16«. 
 NORTH WALES, Bangor, Carnarvon, Beaumaris, 
 
 Snowdon, LlanberiB, Dolgelly, Cader Idria, Conway, <tc. Map, Post 
 
 8»o. 7«. 
 
 -SOUTH WALES, Monmouth, Llauda6F, Merthyr, 
 
 Vale of Neath, Pembroke, Carmarthen, Tenby, Swansea, The Wye, &c. 
 
 Map. Post 8»o. 7». 
 
 CATHEDRALS OF BANGOR. ST. ASAPH, 
 
 LlaudafF. and St. David's. With Illustrations. Post 8vn, 15s. 
 
 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE AND EUTLA.ND— 
 
 Northampton, Pelerborou^h, Towcester, Daventry, Market Har- 
 borough, Kettering, WallingboTOUgh, Thrapston, Stamford, Upping- 
 ham, Oakhara. Map. PostSvo. la.Bd. 
 
 DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, STAFFORD, 
 
 Matlock, Bakewell, Chatsworth, The Peak, Buxton, Hardwick, Dove 
 Dale, Ashbome. Southwell, Mansfield, Retford, Burton, Belvoir, Melton 
 Mowbray, Wolverhampton, Lichfield, Walsall, Tamworth. Map. 
 Post 8vo. fl«. 
 
 SHROPSHIRE, CHESHIRE and LANCASHIRE 
 
 — Shrewsbury, Ludlow, Bridgnorth, Oswestry, Chester, Crewe,Alderley, 
 Stockport, Birkenhead, Warrington, Bury. Manchester, Liverpool, 
 Burnley, Clitheroe, Bolton, Blackburn, Wigac, Preston, Rochdale, 
 Lancaster, Southport, Blackpool, &c. Map. Post 8vo. 10*. 
 
 YORKSHIRE, Doucasfer, Hull, Selby, Beverley, 
 
 Scarborough, Wliitby, Harrogate, Ripon, Leeds, Wakefield, Bradford, 
 Halifax, Huddersfield, Sheffield. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. Via. 
 
 CATHEDRALS of York, Ripon, Durham, Carlisle, 
 
 Chester, and Manchester. With 60 llltistratious. 2 Yols. Crown 8vo. 
 
 2l3. 
 
 DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND, New- 
 
 castle, Darlington, Gateshead, Bistop Auckland, Stockton, Hartlepool, 
 Sunderland, Shields, Berwick-on-Tweed, Morpeth, Tynemouth, Gold- 
 stream, Alnwick, &c. Map. PostSvo. 9*. 
 
 WESTMORLAND and CUMBERLAND— Lan- 
 
 caster, Fnrnefis Abbey, Ambleside, Kendal, Windermere, Coniston^ 
 Keswick, Grasmere, Ulswater, Carlisle, Cockennouth, Penrith, Appleby. 
 Map. Post 8to. 6*. 
 *»• Mueray's Map of the Lake District, on canvas. 3a. ed. 
 
 SCOTLAND, Edinburgh, Melrose, KeUo, Glasgow, 
 
 Dumfries, Ayr, Stirling, An'an, The Clyde, Oban, Inverary, Loch 
 Lomond, Loch Katrine and Trossachs, Caledonian Canal, Inverness, 
 Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Braemar, Skye, Caithness, Ross, Suther- 
 land, &c. Mans and Plans. PostSyo. 9jf. 
 
 IRELAND, Dublin, Belfast, the GianVs Cause- 
 
 way, Donegal, (Sal way, Wexford, Cork. Limerick. Waterford, Killar- 
 
 ney. Bantry, Glengariff, &c. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. lOi. 
 HERODOTUS. A New English Yersion. Edited, with Notes 
 
 and Essays, historical, ethnographical, and geographical, by Canon 
 
 Rawlihson, assisted by Sib Hbnby Rawlinson and Sib J. G. Wil- 
 
 KiNBoy. Maps and Woodcuta. 4 Vols. Svo. 48a. 
 HERSCHEL'S (Caroline) Memoir and Corresponderce. By 
 
 Mrs. John HERqCHBL. With Portraits. Crown 8vo 12s. 
 HATHERLEY (Lord). The Continuity of Scripture, as Declared 
 
 by the Testimony of our Lord and of the Evangelists and Apostles. 
 
 8to. 6s. Popular Edition. Post Svo. 2s. 6d, 
 HOLLWAT (J. G.). A Month in Norway. Fcap. 8vo. 2a, 
 HONET BEE. By Rev. Thomas Jambs. Fcap. Svo. 1a 
 HOOK (Dean). Church Dictionary. 8vo, ie«.^ 
 
FUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 
 
 17 
 
 HOME AND COLONIAL LIBEAKT. A Series of Works 
 
 adapted for all circles and classes of Readers, having been selected 
 for their acknowledged interest, and ability of the Authors, Post 8vo. 
 Published at 2*. and 3». 6d. each, and arranged uuder two distinctive 
 heads as follows ; — 
 
 CLASS A, 
 
 HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, AND HISTORIC TALES. 
 
 J. SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR. By 
 JOHK Dbinkwater. 2a. 
 
 2. THE AMBER-WITCH. By 
 
 Lady Duff Gordon. 24. 
 
 3. CROMWELL AND BONY AN. 
 
 By Robert Soutbey. 2». 
 
 4. LIFE OF Sir FRANCIS DRAKE. 
 
 By JOHH Barrow. 2«. 
 
 B. CAMPAIGNS AT WASHING- 
 TON. By Rev.G. R. Gleio. 2«. 
 
 e. THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS. 
 By Lady Dufv Gordon. 2s. 
 
 7. THE FALL OF THE JESUITS. 
 
 2s. 
 
 8. livonian tales. 2». 
 
 9. LIFE OF COND^:. By Lord Ma- 
 
 HON. 35. 6d. 
 
 10. SALE'S BRIGADE. By Rev. 
 G. R. Gleis. 2>. 
 
 H. THE SIEGES OF VIENNA. 
 By Lord Ellebheeb, 28. 
 
 12. THE WAYSIDE CROSS. By 
 
 CafT. MlLMAN. 28. 
 
 13. SKETCHES OF GERMAN LIFE. 
 
 By Sir A. Gordon, 35. 6d. 
 
 14. THE BATTLE of WATERLOO. 
 
 By Rev. G. R. Gleig. Sj.ed. 
 16. AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF STEF- 
 FENS. 2s. 
 
 16. THE BRITISH POETS. By 
 
 TH01U.S Gaufbbll. 3s, 6d. 
 
 17. HISTORICAL ESSAYS. By 
 
 Lord Mahon. 3s. 6d. 
 
 18. LIFE OF LORD CLIVE. By 
 
 Rev. G. R. Gieiq. 3». 6d. 
 
 19. NORTH - WESTERN RAIL- 
 
 WAY. By Sir F. B. Head. 2*. 
 
 20. LIFE OF MUNRO. By Key. G. 
 
 K. Gleio, 3s. 6i. 
 
 CLASS B. 
 VOYAGES, TRAVELS, AND ADVENTURES. 
 
 1, BIBLE IN SPAIN. By Geohqe 
 
 Borrow. 3s. 6d. 
 
 2. GYPSIES OF SPAIN. By Georob 
 
 Borrow. 3s. 6d. 
 3 & 4. JOURNALS IN INDIA. By 
 
 Bishop Uebeb. 2 Vols. 7s. 
 B. TRAVELS in the HOLY LAND. 
 
 By Irby and M anolbs. 2s. 
 
 6. MOROCCO AND THE MOORS. 
 
 By J. Dbukmond Hay. 2s. 
 
 7. LETTERS FROM the BALTIC. 
 
 By a Lady. 
 
 8. NEW SOUTH WALES. ByMBS. 
 
 Mebedith. 2s. 
 
 9. THE WEST INDIES. By M. G. 
 
 Lewis. 2s. 
 
 10. SKETCHES OP PERSIA. By 
 
 Sib John Mai,coi.h. 3s. 6d. 
 
 11. MEMOIRS OF FATHER RIPA. 
 
 2s. 
 12 & 13. TYPEE AND OMOO. By 
 Hermann Mkltille. 2 Vols. 7s. 
 14. MISSIONARY LIFE IN CAN- 
 ADA. By Bet. J. Abbott. 2s. 
 
 %» Each work may be bad separately. 
 
 15. LETTERS FROM MADRAS. By 
 a Lady. 2s. 
 
 16. HIGHLAND SPORTS. By 
 Charlss St. John. 3s. 6d, 
 
 17. PAMPAS JOURNEYS. By Sis 
 F. B. Head. 2s. 
 
 18. GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN. 
 By Richard Fobd. 3s, 6d. 
 
 19. THE RIVER AMAZON. By 
 W. H. Edwabdb. 2s. 
 
 20. MANNERS & CUSTOMS OF 
 INDIA. ByREV.C.AoLAND. 2s. 
 
 21. ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 
 By G, F. RnxTON. 8s. ed. 
 
 22. PORTUGAL AND 6ALICIA. 
 By Lord Carnarvon. 3s. 6d, 
 
 23. BUSH LIFE IN AUSTRALIA. 
 By Rev. H. W. Hayoarth. 28. 
 
 24. THE LIBYAN DESERT. By 
 Baylx St. John. 2s. 
 
 26. SIERRA LEONE, By A Ladit. 
 3<,6d. 
 
18 LIST OP WORKS 
 
 HOOK'S (Theoboke) Life. By J. G. Lookhaei. Fcap. 8vo. Is. 
 
 HOPE (A. J. Bbresfoed) ■Worship in the Church of England. 
 8vo, 9s., or, Popular SeleciUmsfrom, 8vo. 2s. 6d. 
 
 HORACE ; a New Edition of the Text. Edited by Deau Miimah . 
 
 With 100 Woodcuts, Crown 8vo. 7s. M. 
 
 • Life of. By Dbam Milmah. Illustrations. 8vo. 
 
 HOUGHTON'S (Lokd) Monographs, Personal and Social With 
 
 Portraits. Crown 8vo, 10». 6d. 
 
 ■ — Poetioaii Woeks. Collected Edition. With Por- 
 
 trait. 2 Vols. Fcap. 8yo. 12s. 
 
 HUME (The Stndent's). A History of England, from the Inva- 
 sion of Julins Csesar to the Revolution of 1688. Corrected and con- 
 tinued to 1868. Woodcuts. Post 8to. 7s. M. 
 
 HUTCHINSON (Gef.) Dog Breaking, Tcith Odds and Ends for 
 those who love the Dog and the Gun. With 40 Illustrations. Qth 
 edition. 7s. 6d, 
 
 HUTTON (H.E.). PrincipiaGrseca; an Introduction to the Study 
 of Greek. Comprehending Grammar, Delectus, and Exercise-book, 
 with Yocahularies. Sixth Editicm. 12mo, 3s. 6cZ. 
 
 IRBY AND MANGLES' Travels in Egypt, Nubia, Syria, and 
 the Holy Land. Post 8vo. 2s. 
 
 JAMES' (Eev. Thomas) Fables of Mio^. A New Translation, with 
 Historical Preface. With 100 Woodcuts toy Tenniel and Wolf. 
 Post 8vo. 2s. ed. 
 
 JAMESON (Mes.). Lives of the Early Italian Painters— 
 and the Progress of Painting in Italy — Cimabue to Basaano. With 
 60 Portraits. Post 8yo. 12s. 
 
 JENNINGS (LoBis J.). Field Paths and Green Lanes in Surrey 
 and Sussex. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 10s. Qd. 
 
 JEKVIS (Eev. W. H.). The Galilean Church, from the Con^ 
 
 cordat of Bologna, 1516, to the Revolution. With an Introduction. 
 Portraits. 2 Vols. 8yo. 28s. 
 
 JESSE (Ed waed). Gleanings in Natural History; Fcp.Bvo. Z8.6d. 
 
 JEX-BLAKB (Eev; T. W.). Life in Faith : Sermons Preached 
 at Cheltenham and Rugby. Fcap. Svo. 3s. 6:^. 
 
 JOHNS (Eev. B. G.). Blind People; their Works and Ways. With 
 Sketches of the Uves^f some famous Blind Men. With Illustrations 
 Post Svo. 7s. 6ci. 
 
 JOHNSON'S (Dr. Samcbl) Life. By James Boswell. Including 
 the Tour, to the Hebridw. Edited by Me. Cbokbb. 1 vol. Royal 
 Svo. 12s. New Edition. Portraits. 4 Vols. Svo. [In Preparaticn. 
 
 Lives of the most eminent English Poets, with 
 
 Critical Observations on their Works. Edited with Notes, Corrective 
 and Explanatory, by Petee CiJinraioHAa. 3 vols. Svo. 22s. 6(i. 
 
 JUNIUS' Hanhweiting Professionally investigated. By Mr. Cbabot, 
 Expert. With Preface and Collateral Evidence, by-tbe Hon. Edwabd 
 TwiSLETOH. With Facdmiles, Woodcuts, &c. 4to. £3 St. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 19 
 
 KEN'S (Bishop) Life. By a Latmah, Portiait. 2 Vols. 8vo. 18s. 
 KEEE (Eobkkt). Small Country House. A Brief Practical 
 
 Discourse on the Planning of a Residence from 2O00!. to 5000!. 
 
 Witli Supplementary Estimates to 7000!. Post 8to. Ss. 
 ■ Ancient Lights; a Boob for Architects, Surveyors, 
 
 Lawyers, and Landlords. 8vo. 5s, 6d. 
 
 • (R. Malcolm) Student's Blacksltone. A Systematic 
 
 Abridgment of the entire Commentaries, adapted to the present state 
 of the law. PostSvo. 7s. 6iJ, 
 
 KIKG EDWARD VIth's Latin Grammar. 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 — First Latin Book, 12mo. 2s. 6d. 
 
 KING (E. J.). Archaeology, Travel and Art; being Sketches and 
 
 Sindies, Historical and Descriptive. 8to. 12j. 
 KIRK (J. FosTBE). History of Charles the Bold, Duke of Bur- 
 
 gundy. Portrait. 3 Vols. 8vo. 45s. 
 KIEKES' Handbook of Physiology. Edited by W. Mokkani 
 
 Bakke, P.E.C.S. With 400 lUnstrations. Post 8vo." 145. 
 
 KUGLEE'S Handbook of Painting.— The Italian Schools. Ee- 
 vised and Remodelled fi-om the most recent Researches. By Ladt 
 Eastlake. With 110 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. S0». 
 
 —-^——- Handbook of Painting. — The German, Flemish, and 
 Dutch Schools. Revised and in part re-written. By J. A. Ceowe. 
 With 60 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 2l3. 
 
 LAITE (E. W.). Account of the Manners and Customs of Modern 
 Egyptians. With Illustrations. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 12s 
 
 LAWRENCE (Sib Geo.). Eeminiscences of Forty-three Years' 
 Service in India; including Captivities in Cahul among the Afghans 
 and among the Sikhs, and a Narrative of the Mutiny in fiajputana. 
 Crown Svo. 10». 6d. 
 
 LATAED (A. H.). Nineveh and its Remains. Being a Nar- 
 rative of Researches and Discoveries amidst the Ruins of Assyria. 
 With an Account of the Chaldean Christians of Kurdistan ; the Yczedls, 
 or Devil-worshippers ; and an Enquiry into the Manners and Arts oi 
 the Ancient Assyrians. Plates and Woodcuts. 2 Vols. 8vo. 36s. 
 
 »^« A POPOIAH Edition of the above work. With Illustrations. 
 Post 8vo. 7«. 6d. 
 
 Nineveh and Babylon ; being the Narrative of Dis- 
 coveries in the Ruins, with Travels in Armenia, Kurdistan and the 
 Desert, during a Second Expedition to Assyria. With Map and 
 Plates. Svo. 21s . „. ^ ,„ . . 
 
 «»* A PopniAB EDiTiosf of the above work. With Illustrations 
 Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 LBATHE3' (Stanlet) Practical Hebrew Grammar. With the 
 Hebrew Text of Genesis i. — vi., and Psalms i.— vi. Grammatical 
 Analysis amd Vocabulary. Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 LENNEP (Eev. H. J. Yak). Missionary Travel* in Asia Minor, 
 With Illustrations of Biblical History and Archaeology. With Map 
 and Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post Svo. 24s. 
 
 Modern Customs and Manners of Bible Lands in 
 
 Illustration of Scripture. With Coloured Maps and 300 Illustrationa. 
 2 Vols. Svo. 21s. 
 
 LESLIE (C. E.), Handbook for Young Painters. With IHustra- 
 tions. Post Svo. Ts. 6d: 
 
 Life and Works of Sir Joshua Reynolds. Portraits 
 
 and niustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. 42». 
 
 2 
 
20 LIST OF WORKS 
 
 LETO (PoMPONio). Bight MontliB at Eome during the Vatican 
 Council. With a daily account of the proceedingti. Translated from 
 tfce original. 8to. lis 
 
 LETTERS Fkom the Baltic. By a Labt. Post 8to. 2s. , 
 
 Madras. By a Ladt. Post 8 to. 2«. 
 
 Sierra Leone. By a Ladt. Post Svo. Ss. 6d. 
 
 LEVI (Lbonb). History of British Commerce ; and of the Eco-' 
 
 nomic Progress of the Nation, from 1763 to 1870. Svo. IBs. 
 LEX SALICA; the Ten Emended Texts with the Glosses. 
 
 Edited {Vne Interpretation of the Glosses) by Dit. H. Kebk, of Leyden. 
 
 The Texts, newly collated, with Glossary, Introduction, &c , by J. H. 
 
 Hessels, 
 LIDDELL (Dean). Student's History of Eome, from the earliest 
 
 Times to the establishment of the Empire. "Woodcuts. Post Svo. 7a. Gd, 
 LISPIKGS from LOW LATITUDES;' or, the Journal of the Hon. 
 
 ImpulsiaGushington. Edited by LobdDufferin. With24Plates,4to.21». 
 
 LIVINGSTONE (Da ). Popular Account of hia First Expedition 
 to Africa, 1810-56. Illustrations. Post Svo. 7». Sd. 
 
 — ^ Second Expedition to Africa, 1858-64. Illustra- 
 tions. Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Last Journals in Central Africa, from 1865 to. 
 
 his Death. Continued by a Narrative of his last momtnts and sufferings. 
 
 liyKev. Horace Waller. Maps and Illustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. 263. 
 LIVIN63T0NIA. Journal of Adventures in Exploring Lake 
 
 Nyassa, a-d Establisliing a Missionary Settlement there. By E. D, 
 
 Young, K.N. Revised by Rev. Horace Waller. Maps Post Svo. 7s. Gd. 
 LIVONIAN TALES. By the Author of "Letters from the 
 
 Baltic." Post Svo. is. 
 LLOYD (W. Watkiss). History of Sicily to the Athenian War ; 
 
 with El'ucidations of the Sicilian Odes of Pindar. With Map. Svo. 14*. 
 LOCH (H. Bk). Personal Narrative of Events during Lord 
 
 Elgin's Second Embassy to China. With Illustrations. Post Svo. 9s. 
 LOCKHaKT (J. G.). Ancient Spanish Ballads. Historical and 
 
 Romantic. Translated, with Notes, With Portrait and Illustrations. 
 
 Crown Svo. 5a. 
 
 Life of Theodore Hook. Fcap. Svo. Is. 
 
 LOUDON (Mm.) Gardening for Ladies. With Directions and 
 
 Calendar of Operations for Every Month. Woodcuts. Fcap. Svo. 3«. Gd. 
 LYELL (Sir Charles). Principles of Geology; or, the Modem 
 
 Changes of the Earth and its Inhabitants considered as illustrative of 
 Geology. With Illustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. 32s. 
 
 Student's Elements of Geology. With Table of British 
 
 Fossils and 6fJ0 Illustrations. Third Edition, Revised. Post Svo. 9s. 
 
 Geological Evidences of the Antiquity of Man, 
 
 includinf? an Outline of Glacial Post-Tertiary Geology, and Remarks 
 on the Origin of Species. Illustrations. Svo. lis. 
 
 (K. M.). Geographical Handbook of Ferns. With Tables 
 
 to show their Distribution. Post Svo. 7s. Gd, 
 
 LTTTON (Lord). A Memoir of Julian Fane. With Portrait. Post 
 
 Svo. 5s. 
 
 McCLlNTOCK (SiB L.). Narrative of the Discovery of the 
 Fate of Sir John Franklin and his Companions In the Arctic Seas. 
 With Illustrations. Pest Svo. 7i. 6d. 
 
 MACDOUGALL (Col.). Modern Warfare as Influenced by Modem 
 Artillery. With Plans. Post Svo. 12». 
 
PUBLISHED BY Mil. MURRAY. 21 
 
 MACGREGOR (J.). Rob Roy on the Jordan, Nile, Red Sea, Gen- 
 nesareth, &c. A Canoe Cruise in Palestine and Egypt and the Waters 
 of Damascus. With Map and 70 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 7». 6d. 
 
 MAETZKBR'S English Grahmar. A Methodical, Analytical, 
 and Historical Treatise on the Orthography, Prosody, Inflections, and 
 Syntax of the English Tongue. Translated from the German. By 
 Claie J. Gkeoe, LL.D. 3 Vols. 8vo. 36s. 
 
 MAHON (Lord), see Stakhopb. 
 
 MAINE (Sir H. Sumner). Ancient Law : its Connection with the 
 Early History of Society, and its Relation to Modern Ideas. 8to. 12s. 
 
 Village Communitiea in the East and West. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Early History of Institutions. 8to. 123. 
 
 MALCOLM (Sir John). Sketches of Persia. Post 8to. 3«. 6d. 
 MANSEL (Dean). Limits of Eeligioua Thought Examined. 
 
 Post Svo. 8s. 6d. 
 
 Letters, Lectures, and Papers, including the Phrontis- 
 
 terion, or Oxford in the XlXth Century. Edited by H. W. Chasdleb, 
 M.A. Svo. 12s. 
 
 Gnostic Heresies of the First and Second Centuries. 
 
 With a sketch of his life and character. By Lord Carhaeton. 
 Edited by Canon Lightfoot. Svo, 10s. 6d. 
 
 MANUAL OP SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY. For the Use of 
 Travellers. Edited by Kev. E. Maih. Post Svo. 3s. 6i3. [Puilished iy 
 order o/tJie Lards of the Admiralty.) 
 
 MARCO POLO. The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian. 
 Concerning the Kingdoms and Marvels of the East. A new English 
 Version. Illustiated by the light of Oriental Writers and Modern 
 Travels. By Col. Henbv Yule. Maps and Illustrations, 2 Vols, 
 Medium Svo. 63s. 
 
 MARKHAM (Cliimekts R.). The Introduction of Bark Culture 
 into the British Dominions, containing a narrative of Journeys in Pent 
 and India, and some account of the Chincona Plantations already 
 formed. Illustrations. Svo. [In the Press. 
 
 (Mrs.) History of England. From the First Inra- 
 
 aion by the Romans to 1867. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3s. 6rf. 
 
 History of France. From the Conquest by the 
 
 Gauls to 1861. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 History of Germany. From the luraslon by Marins 
 
 tolS67. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3s.6d. 
 
 MARLBOROUGH'S (Sarah, Duchess of) Letters. Now first 
 
 published from the Original MSS. at Madresfiald Court. With an 
 
 Introduction. Svo. 10s. 6d. 
 MARETAT (Joseph). History of Modem and Mediaeval Pottery 
 
 and Porcelain. With a Description of the Manufacture. Plates and 
 
 Woodcuts. Svo. 42s. 
 MARSH (G. P.). Student's Manual of the English Language. 
 
 Edited with Additions. By Db. Wm. Smith. Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 MASTERS in English Theology. The King's College Lectures, 
 
 1S77 Hooker, by Canon Barry; Andbkws, by the Dean of St. 
 
 Paul's : Cbillisgwobtu, by Prof. Plumptre ; Whiohcotb and 
 
 Smith by Canon Westcott ; Jeeemy Tavloe, by Canon Farrar ; 
 
 PEAESON.by Prof. Cheetham. With Introdtiction by Canon Barry. 
 
 Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 MATTHIiE'S Greek Grammar. Abridged by Blomfisld, 
 
 Bevised by E. S. Ceooke. 12mo. is. 
 
22 LIST OP WORKS 
 
 MAFEEL'S Character, Actions, and Writings of Wellington. 
 
 Fcap. 870. la, 6d. 
 
 MAYO (Lobd). Sport in Abyssinia; or, the Msreh and Taek- 
 
 azzee. With Illustrations, Crown 8vo. 12s. 
 MEABE (Hon. Herbert). Kide through theiDisturbed Districts of 
 New Zealand, with a Cruise among the South Sea Islands. With llius- 
 tratiouB. Medium 8vo, 12s. 
 
 MELTILLE (Hbruakn). Marquesas and South Sea Islands. 
 
 2 Vols. PostSvo. 78, 
 
 JHEKEDITH (Mas. Charles). Notes and Sketches of New South 
 
 Wales. Post 8vo. 2s. 
 
 MICHAEL ANGELO, Sculptor, Painter, and Architect. His Life 
 and Works. By C, Heatb Wilson. Illustrations. RoysH 8vo. 26s. 
 
 MIDDLETON (Chas. H.) A Descriptire Catalogue of the 
 Etched Work of Kerabrandt, with Life and Introductions. With 
 Explanatory Cms. Medium-Svo. SU.td. 
 
 MILLINGTON (Rev. T. S.). Signs and Wonders fax tie Land of 
 Ham, or the Ten Plagues of Egypt, with Ancient and Modern Illustra- 
 tions. Woodcuts. PostSvo. '7s.^6d, 
 
 MILMAN'S (Dean) WOEKS :— 
 
 History of the Juws, from the earliest Period down to Modern 
 Times. 3 Vols. Post 8to. 18s. 
 
 Early Christianity, from the Birth of Christ to the Aboli- 
 tion of'Paganism lu'the Ron^an Empire, 3 Vols. PostSvo. ISs, 
 
 Latin Christianity, including that of the Popes to the 
 Pontificate of NichoUa V. 9 Vols. PostSvo. Bis. 
 
 Annals of St. Paul's Cathedral, from the Eomans to the 
 funeral of Wellington. Illustrations. Svo. 
 
 Ona^AOTER AND CoNixnoT :oF THE Abostleb Considered as an 
 
 Evidence of Christianity, Svo. 10s, ed. 
 
 Qdinti Horatii Placci Opera. With 100 Woodcuts. Small 
 
 Svo. 7s. M. 
 
 Life of Quintus Horatius Elaoous. With Illustrations. 
 
 Svo. Ss. 
 
 Pall of Jerusalem, Pcap. Svo. Is. 
 MILMAN (Capt. E. A.) Wayside Cross. Post Svo. 2s. 
 JIiyAET (St. Georse). Lessons from Nature ; as manifested in 
 
 Mind and Matter, Svo. 15s. 
 MOGEE (Thomas). Life and Letters of Lord Byron. Cabintt 
 Sditicn. Wirh Plates. 6 Vols. Fcap. 8vo. 18». ; Popular Bdiiior, 
 with Portraits. Eoyal Svo. la. Sd. 
 
 MOEESBT (Capt.), P.N. DiscoveiiEs in New Guinea, Polynesia, 
 
 Torres Straits, &c,, during the cruise of H.M.S. BasiliHk. Map and 
 Illustrations. Svo. 153, 
 
 MOTLEY (J. L.). History of the United Netherlands : from the 
 Death of William the Silent to the TwelveY6aTB'.Truce,iieo9. Portraits. 
 i Vols. Post Svo. 6s. each. 
 
 Life and Death of John df Barneveld, 
 
 Advocate of Holland. With a View of the Primary Causes and 
 Movementsofiha Thirfy Years' War. Library Bdition. lUustrations 
 2 Vols. Svo, 26s. Catinet, Editum. 2 vols. Post-Svo. 12s, 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 
 
 23 
 
 MOSSMAN (Samuel). New Japan ; the Land of the Rising Suu ; 
 ita Annals and Progress during the past Twenty Years, recording the 
 remarltable Progress of tlie Japanese in Western Civilisation. With 
 Map. 8vo. Idi-. 
 
 MOZLEY (Canon). Treatise on the Auguatiuiau doctrine of 
 Predestination, Crown 8vo. 9*, 
 
 Primitive Doctrine of Baptismal Regeneration. S. f. 8to. 
 
 9s. 
 
 MUIRHEAD (Jas.). The Yanx-de-Yire of Maistre Jean Le Houi, 
 Advocate of Vire. Translated and Edited. Witli Portrait and lUus- 
 frationa. 8vo. 21s. 
 
 MUNKO'S (General) Life and Letters. By Ket. G. E. Gleio. 
 
 Post 8vo. 8s. ed. 
 
 MUR0HI80N (Sir Roderick). Siluria ; or, a History of the 
 Oldest rock-i containing Oreanic llemains. Map and Plates. 8vo. 18fl. 
 
 Memoirs. With Notices of his Contemporaries, 
 
 and Kise and Progress of Palaaozoic Geology. }iy AECalBALD Geikie. 
 Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 30s. 
 
 MURRAY'S RAILWAY READING. Containing:— 
 
 NiUBODoifTBB Chase, 1>. 
 MuBic AMD Dasaa. Is. 
 ]VliLU&:f'a Fali. of jBKuaALBM. Ii. 
 LiVS OF TaBODORB HouiL. li. 
 Tdb Hoxki Bbb. Is. 
 NiMBOD ON TUK Tua?. 1». (id. 
 Cbokkb on TUK Guillotine. 
 
 Hollwat'b Nob WAT. 
 Maubbl'b Wbllihoton. la.Gd. 
 Camfbbll'b Lifb uf Bacon. 2i. 6i. 
 Tub FLOWKa Gabdbk. Is. 
 
 RbJBCTBD A.DDaKBBBB. ll. 
 
 Pknu'b Hinxu o« AMeLina. 1«. 
 
 IK uuiliJiUTin B. la. 
 
 MUSTERS' (Capt.) Patagonians ; a Year's Wanderings over 
 Untrodden Ground from tlio Straits of Magellaa to the Kio Negro. 
 Illustrations. Pjst 8vo. 7«. 6d. 
 
 NAPIER (SiK Wh.). English Battles and Sieges of the Peninsular 
 
 War. Portrait, PostSvo. 9s. 
 NAPOLEON AT Eontainebleau and Elba. Journal of 
 Occurrences and Notes of Conversations. By SlK Nrtrr. Campbeli,, 
 With a Memoir. By KEV. A.N. C.Maolaohlan. Portrait. 8vo. 13s, 
 
 NARES (SiB Geobob), R.N. Official Report to the Admiralty of 
 
 the recent Arctic Expedition. Map. 8vo. 2s. 6a. 
 NASMYTH AND CARPENTER. The Moan. Considered as a 
 Planet, a World, and a Satellite. With Ill-astrations from Drawings 
 made with the aid ofPowerful Telescopes, Woodcuts, &c. 4to. SOs. 
 
 NAUTICAL ALMANAC (The). {By AuUiorUy.) >. M. \ 
 
 NAYY LIST. (Monthly and Quarterly.) Post 8vo. 
 
 NEW TESTAMENT. With Short Explanatory Commentary. 
 
 By ABOHDE400S CauETO.-., M. A., and Aechoeacoh Bas.l Jones, M.A. 
 
 With 110 authentic Views, &c. 2 Vole. Grown 8vo 21s.6t.MA 
 NEWTH (Samuel). First Book of Natural Philosophy ; aa Intro- 
 
 auction to the Study of Statics Dynamics HydroaU^ttcs Light, Heat. 
 
 and Sound, with numerous Examples. Small 8yo. Ss. btf. 
 
 Elements of Mechanics, including Hydrostatics, 
 ■with numerous Examples. Small 8vo. 8j. U. 
 
 Mathematical Examples. A Graduated Series 
 of Elementary Examples in Arit^.metic, Algehra, Logarithms, Trigo- 
 nometry, and MechanioB. Small 8vo. 8».6i. , „ , ^ 
 ■WTPTinTS' i^ G^ Pilgrimages to Walsingham and Canterbury. 
 ^^^BvLw?'rranfate,d. with Notes. With lUnstrations. PostSvo 6s. 
 
 By LBASMa^.^^ History of the English Poor Laws. 2 Yols. 
 8vo. 288. 
 
24 LIST OF WORKS 
 
 NICOLAS (Sir Harris) Historic Peerage of England, Exhi- 
 biting the Origin, Descent, and Present State of every Title of Peer- 
 age which has existed in thjfi Country since the ConqneBt. By 
 "William Courthope. 8vo. 30s. 
 
 NIMBOD, On the Chace — Turf— and Eoad. With Portrait and 
 Plates. Crown 8to. 5a. Orwith Coloured Plates, 7s. 6d. 
 
 NOEDHOFP (Chas.). Communistic Societies of the United 
 States ; including Detailed Accounts of ihe Shalters, The Amana, 
 Oneida, Buthell, Aurora, Icarian and other existing Sncietles; with 
 Particnlars of their Keligious Creeds, Industries, and Prtsent Condi- 
 lion. With 40 Illustrations. 8vo. 16*. 
 
 NOKTHCOTE'S (Sir John) Notebook in the Long Parliament. 
 Containing Proceedings during its First Session, 1640. Edited, with 
 a Memoir, by A. H. A. Hamilton. Crown 8to. 9s. 
 
 OWEN (LiET]T.-CoL.). Principles and Practice of Modern Artillery, 
 including Artillery Material, Gunnery, and Organisation and Use ot 
 Artillery la Warfare. With lUustraiiors, 8vo. 15s. 
 
 OXENHAM (Rev. W.). English Notes for Latin Elegiacs ; designed 
 for early Proficients in the Art of Latin Versification, with Prefatory 
 Kules of Composition in Elegiac Metre. 12mo. Ss. 6d. 
 
 PALGRAYE (H. H. L). Local Taxation of Great Britain and 
 Ireland. Svo. 5s. 
 
 _ Notes on Banking in Great Britain snd Ireland, 
 
 Sweden, Denmaik, and Hnmburg, with some Remarks on the amount 
 of Bills in circulation, both Inland and Foreign, 8to. 6s, 
 
 PALLISER (Mrs.). Brittany and its Bjeways, its Inhabitants, 
 and Antiquities. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 12s. 
 
 . ■ Mottoes for Monuments, or Evitapbs selected for 
 
 General Use and Study. With Illustrations. Crown 8to. 7a. 6d. 
 
 PARIS (Dr.) Philosophy in Sport made Science in Earnest ; 
 or, the First Principles of Natural Philosophy inculcated by aid of the 
 Toys and Sports of Youth. Woodcuts. Post bvo. la.Gd. 
 
 PARKYNS* (Manspieid) Three Years' Residence in Abyssinia : 
 with Travels in tliat Countiy. With lUuBtrationB. Pest Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 PEEK PRIZE ESSAYS. The Maintenance of the Church of 
 England as an Established Church. By Kev. Chables Hole — Ret. 
 R. Watson Dixon— and Rev. Julius Llotd. 8to. 10a. 6d. 
 
 PEEL'S (Sir Robert) Memoirs. 2 Yols. Post 8to. 15a 
 
 PENN (Richard). Maxims and Hints for an Angler and Chess- 
 player. Woodcuts. Fcap. Svo. Is. 
 PERCY :(JoHN, M.D.). Metallurgy. let J:)ivision. — Fuel, 
 
 Wood, Pear, Coal, Charcoal, Coke. Fire-Clays. Ntw Edition. With 
 Illustrations. Svo. 3Us 
 
 . 2nd Division.— Copper, Zinc, and Brass. New Edition. 
 
 With lUustratinns. [In the Press. 
 
 3rd Division. — Iron and Steel. New Edition. With 
 
 Illustration P. [/n Preparatim* 
 
 . 4ih Division. — Lead, including part of Silver. With 
 
 Illustrations. 30s. 
 
 5th Division. — Silver. With Illustrations. [Nearly Ready. 
 
 ■ 6th Division. — Gold, Mercury, Platinum, Tin, Nickel, 
 
 Cobalt, Antimony, Bismuth, Arsenic, and other Metals. With Illus- 
 trations. [In Preparation. 
 
 PERRY (Rev. Canon). Life of St. Hugh of Avalon, Bishop of 
 
 Lincoln Post Svu. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 25 
 
 PHILLIPS' (Johh) Memoirs ofWilliam Smith. 8to. 7s.6d. 
 
 Geology of Yorkshire, The Coast, and Limestone 
 
 District. Plates. 2 Vols. 4to. 31s. 6d. each. 
 
 (Samuel). Literary Easaya from " The Times." With 
 
 Portrait. 2 Vols. Fcap. 8vo. 7j. 
 POPE'S (AiBXANDER) Works. With Introductions and Notes, 
 
 by Ret. WhitwellElwik. Tola. I., II., VI., VII., VIII. With For- 
 
 traits. 8vo. 10s. Bd. each. 
 
 POKTER (Eet. J. L.). Damascus, Palmyra, and Lebanon. With 
 Travels among the Giant Cities ofBashan and the Hauran. Man an* 
 VVoodcnts. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 PRATEK-BOOK (Illustrated), with Borders, Initials, Vig- 
 nettes, &c. Edited, with Notes, by Eev. Thos. Jajues. Medium 
 Sto. 18s. cloth ; 3U. 6d. mlj ; 36s. morocco. 
 
 PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OP WALES. A Brief Memoir. 
 
 With Selections from her Correspondence and olher unpublished 
 Papers. By Ladt Rose Weigall. With Portrait. 8vo. 8s. 6d. 
 PRIVY COUNCIL JUDGMENTS in Ecclesiastical Cases re- 
 lating to Doctrine and Discipline. Witli Historical Introduction, 
 by G. C. Bbodeick and W. H. Feemantle. 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 PUSS IN BOOTS. With 12 Illustrations. By Oiio Speoktek. 
 16mo. Is. 6d. Or coloured. 2s. 6d. 
 
 QUARTERLY REVIEW (The). 8vo. 6ar 
 
 RAE (Edward). Country of the Moors. A Journey from Tripoli 
 in Barbary to the Holy City of Kairwan. Map and Etchings. Crown 
 8vo. IDs. ei. 
 
 RAMBLES in the Syrian Deserts. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 RASSAM (Hormuzd). Narrative of the British Mission to Abys- 
 sinia. With ^Notices of the Countries Traversed from Massowah to 
 Magdala. Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 28s. 
 
 RAWLINSON'S (Canon) Herodotus. A New English Ver- 
 sion. Edited with Notes and Essays. Maps and Woodcut. 4 Vols. 8vo, 48s. 
 
 Five Great Monarchies of Chaldsea, Assyria, Media, 
 
 Babylonia, and Persia. With Maps and Illustrations. 3 Vols. 8vo. 42s. 
 (Sir Henry) England and Russia in the East ; a 
 
 Series of Papers on the Political and Geographical Condition of Central 
 Asia. Map. 8vo. 12». 
 
 REED (E. J.) Iron- Clad Ships; their Qualities, Performances, and 
 Cost. With Chapters on Turret Ships, Iron-Clad Earns, Ac. With 
 Illustrations. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Letters from Russia in 1875. 8vo. 5s. 
 
 REJECTED ADDRESSES (The). By Jambs and Horace Smith. 
 
 Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 3s. 6cZ. ; or Popular EdUUm, Fcap. 8vo. Is. 
 REMBRANDT. A Descriptive Catalogue of his Etched Work ; 
 
 with Life and Introductions. By Chas. H. Middletos, B.A. 
 
 Woodcuts. Medium 8vo. 31s. 6d. 
 REYNOLDS' (Sir Joshua) Life and Times. By C. R. Leslie, 
 
 E.A. and Tom Tatloe. Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 42s. 
 
 RICARDO'S (David) Political Works. With a Notice of his 
 
 Life and Writings. By J. E. M'Cin,i.ooH. 8vo. 16s. 
 RIPA (Father). Thirteen Years at the Court of Peking. Post 
 
 8vo. 2s. 
 
26 LIST OP WORKS 
 
 KOBBKTSON (Canon). History of the Christian Church, from 
 
 the ApoBtoIic Age to the Reformation, 1517. lAhrary EdUitm. 4Yo1b. 
 Bvo. Cabinet ■Ediium. 8 Vols. Post 8vo. 6*. each. 
 
 ROBINSON (Rev. Dr.). Biblical ReseaTches in Palestine and the 
 
 Adjacent Regions, 1838— 52. Maps-. SVols. 8vo. 42». 
 
 PhysicalGeographyoftheHolyTjand. PostSvo. 10s.6d. 
 
 (Wm.) Alpine Flowers for English Gardens. With 
 
 .70 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12*. 
 
 Sub-Tropical Garden. Illustrations. Small 8vo. 
 
 7s. Sd. 
 
 ROBSON (E. R.). SoHOOL Akohiteotube. Being Practical Re- 
 marks on the Planning, Designing, Building, and Furnishiog of 
 SchooNhouses. With SOU Illustrations. Medium 8vo. IBs. 
 
 ROME (HisTOKT or). See Liddeil and Smith. 
 
 RUXTON (Geo. P.). Travels in Mexico; with Adventrs. among Wild 
 Tribes and Animals of the Prairies and Bocky Mjaatains. Post 8vo. 3s,6d. 
 
 SALE'S (Sir Robert) Brigade in Affghanistan. With an Account of 
 the Defence of Jellalabad. By Key. G. R. Gleio. Post 8vo. 2s. 
 
 SCEPTICISM IN GEOLOGY; and the Reasons for It. An 
 assemblage of facts from Natare combining to refute the theory of 
 "Causea now in Action,'" By Verifier. Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 6s. 
 
 SCHLIEMANN (Dr. Henry). Troy and Its Remains. A Narra- 
 tive of Researches atad Discoveries made on the Site of Ilium, and in the 
 TrojanPlaln. WithMaps, Vie(7S,and50Jlllustratioos. Medium 8vo. 42a. 
 
 — Discoveries on the Sites of Ancient Mycenae 
 
 and Tiryns. With Maps and 500 Illustraiions, Medium 8vo. 50s. 
 
 SCOTT (Sir Giibert). Lectures on the Rise and Development 
 of Mediaeval Architectnre. Delivered at the Royal Academy. "With 
 400 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Medium 8vo. 42!?. 
 
 Secular and Domestic Architecture, Present and Future. 
 
 8to. 9s. 
 
 (Dean) University Sermons. Post 8vo. Ss. Sd. 
 
 ■SCROPE (G. P.). Geology and Extinct Volcanoes of Central 
 France. Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 30s. 
 
 SELBORNE (Lord). Notes on some Passages in the Liturgical 
 History, of the Reformed English Church. 8vo. 6s. 
 
 SHADOWS OF A SICK ROOM. With a Preface by Canon 
 
 LiDnoN. 16mo. 2s. Gd. 
 SHAH OF PERSIA'S Diary during his Tour through Europe in 
 1873. Translated from the Original. By J. W. Redsouse. With 
 Portrait and Coloured Title. Crown 8vo. 12s. 
 SMILES' (Samuel, LL.D.) WORKS :— 
 
 British Engineees ; from the Earliest Period to the death of 
 the Stephenson-;. With Illustrations. 5 Vnls. Crown 8vo. 7s. Gd. each. 
 
 Life ot a Sootoh Naturalist. With Portrait and Illus- 
 trations. Crown 8vo. lOv. 6d. 
 
 Life 'op Robert Dick (Baker op Thueso), Geolocsist anb 
 Botanist. Witti Portrait and Illustrations. CrownSvo. 10s, Gd. 
 
 HuGCEKOTS IN Ehgland AND IRELAND. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Seip-Help. With Illustrations of Conduct and Persever- 
 ance. Post 8vo. 6s. Or in French, 55- 
 
 Character. a Sequel to " Selp-Help." Post 8vo. 6s, 
 
 Thript. a Book of Domestic Counsel. Post 8vo. Ss, 
 
 Industrial Biobraphy; or. Iron Workers and Tool Makers; 
 
 Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 Boy's Voyaqe Round the World. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 27 
 
 SMITH'S (Dk. Wit.). DICTIONAEIES :— , 
 
 UiOTiosARY OB THE BiBLE ; it9 Antiquities, Biography, 
 Geograpliy, aud Natural History. Illustrations. 3 Vols. 8yo. 105». 
 
 Concise Bible Dictionary. With 300 lUustrationa. Medium 
 8to. 21s. 
 
 Smaller Bible Dioiionakt. With Illustrations. Post 
 
 8to. 7s. 6U. 
 
 Christian Antiquities. Comprising the History, Ineti- 
 tutioDS, and Antiquities of the Christian Cuurcli. Witti lllUdtrationB, 
 Vol. I, 8yo. 31a. M. (To be completed in 2 vols.) 
 
 Christian Biography, Litekatcre, Seots, and Doctrines; 
 from ttie Times of the Apcistlea totbe Age of Clmrlemague. Vol. I. 8vo 
 31a. 6d. (To b9 completed in 3 vols.) 
 
 Greek and Rohan Anthjcities. With 500 Illastrations. 
 Medium 8vo. 28«. 
 
 Greek and Roman Biosrapht and Mitholooy. With 600 
 lllustratisas. 3 Vols. Medium 8vo. <IL 48. 
 
 Greek and Roisian Geography. 2 Vols. With 500 Illustra- 
 tions. Medium 8ro. 56a. 
 
 Atlas op Ancient Geography — Biewoal and Classical. 
 
 Folio, u. 6s. 
 Classical Dictionary of Mythology, Biography, and 
 
 Geoobapst. 1 Vol. With 750 Woodcuts. 8vo. 18s. 
 SiiALLBR Classical Dictionary. With 200 Woodcuts. Croira 
 
 Svo. 7s.6(i. 
 
 Smaller Greek and Roman Antiquities. With 200 Wood- 
 cuts. Crowa Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Complete Latin-English Dictionary. With Tables of the 
 Roman Calendar, Measures, Weights, and Money. Svo. 21s. 
 
 Smaller Latin- English Dictionary. 12mo. 7s. 6il. 
 
 Copious AND Critical English-Latin Dictionary. Svo. 2U. 
 
 Smaller English-Latin Dictionary. 12mo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) ENGLISH COURSE :— 
 
 School Manual of English Grammar, with Copious Exercises. 
 
 Post 8vo. a», Hd. 
 School Manual of Modern GsoGRApaY, Physical and 
 
 Fulitical. Fost Svo, 6s. 
 Primary English Grammar. 16mo. Is. 
 Primary History of Britain. 12aio. 2s. 6d. 
 
 SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) GERMAN COURSE :- 
 
 German Frincipia. Part I. A First German Course, con- 
 taining a Grammar, Delectus, Exercise Boon, and Vocabularies. 
 12mo. 3s. 6U. 
 
 German Prikoipia. Part IL A Reading Book ; containing 
 Fables, Stories, a.,d Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the 
 Historf of Gerinanf. With Grammatical Questions, Notes, and Dic- 
 tionary. 12mo. 3s. Gd. 
 
 Practioai, German Grammar. Post 8to. 3s. 6d.] 
 
28 LIST OP WORKS 
 
 SMITH'S (Ds. Wm.) FRENCH COURSE :— 
 
 Feekoh Pkinoipia. Part I. A Firat Course, containing a 
 
 Grammar, Delectus, Exerci-^es, and Vocabularies, 12mo, 3s. 6<2. 
 Fkench Pkinoipia. Part K. A Reading Book, containing 
 
 Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the 
 
 History of France. With Grammatical Questions, Notes and copious 
 
 Kty^oloEfical Dictionary. l'2mo. 4<, 6<2. 
 French Pkincipia. Part III. Prose Composition, containing 
 
 a Systematic Court^e of Exercises on the Syntax, with the Principal 
 
 Rules of Syntax, 12mo. [Z« the Press. 
 
 Student's French Grammar. By C. Heroh-Wail. With 
 
 Introduction by M, Llltre. Post 8vo, 7«, 6'i. 
 Smaller Grammar of the Fhenoh LANGDAaE. Abridged 
 
 from the above. 12mo. ,3.9, Gd. 
 SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) LATIN COURSE :— 
 
 Prikoipia Latina. Part I. First Latin Course, containing a 
 
 Grammar, Delectus,and Exercise Book, with Vocabularies, 12mo. 3s,6d. 
 *^* In this Edition the Cases of the Nouns, Adjectives, and Pronouns 
 
 are arranged both as in tie obdinaby Gbauhahs and as in the Public 
 
 School Peimer, togetlier with the cf^rrespunding Exercises. 
 Appendix to Peincipia Latina Part I, ; being Additional 
 
 Exerc'ses, with Examination Pflppra. 12mo. 2fl. &d. 
 
 Peincipia Latina. Part II. A Reading-book of Mythology, 
 Geography, Romau Antiquities, and History, With Notes and Dic- 
 tionary. 12mo. 33. 6d. 
 
 Peincipia Latina. Part III. A Poetry Book. Hexameters 
 and Pentameters; Eclog. Ovidianse; Latin Prosody, 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Peincipia Latina. Part IV. Prose Composition. Rules of 
 Syntax with Examples, Explanations of Synonyms, and Exercises 
 on the Syntax. 12mo, 3s, &d. 
 
 Pkincipia Latina. Part V. Short Tales and Anecdotes for 
 Translation into Latin, 12mo 3s, 
 
 Latin-English Yocabdlart and Fiest Latik-English 
 Dictionary for Ph^drus, Cornelius Nepos, and C.esae, 12mo, 3s, Qd. 
 
 Student's Latin Geammak. Post 8to. 6s. 
 
 Smaller Latin Grammar. 12mo. 3s. 6c?. 
 
 Tacitus, Germania, Agrioola, &c. With English Notes. 
 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 SMITH'S ^Dr, Wm) GREEK COURSE:— 
 
 iKiTiAGKiioA. Parti. A First Greek Course, containing a Gram- 
 mar, Delectus, and Exercifift-book. "With Vocabularies. 12mo, 3s. 6(i. 
 
 Initia GRffiCA. Part II. A Reading Book. Containing 
 Short Tales, Anecdotes, Fables, Mythology, and Grecian History 
 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Initia Gk^ica. Part III. Prose Composition. Containing the 
 
 Rules of Syntax, with copious Examples and Exercises. 12mo, 'is.Qd, 
 
 Student's Geeek Grammar. By Curtiup. Post 8to. 6s. 
 Smaller Greek Grammak. 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 Greek Accidence. 12ii.o. 2s. 61;?. 
 
 Plato, Apology of Socrates, &c. With Notes. 12mo. Zs. 6d. 
 SMITH'S (Dk. Wm.) SMALLER HISTORIES:— 
 SomPTURE History. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3s. 6d, 
 Ancient History. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3s. 6d. 
 Ancient Geography. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3s. 6d, 
 Rome. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3s. 6d. 
 Greece. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 29 
 
 SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) SMALLER HIST0EIE9 :— 
 
 Classical Mythology. Woodcuts. Itimo. Zs.Gd. 
 England. Woodcuts. 16mo. 3s. 6d. 
 English Litekatuke. 16mo. 3.s. 6d. 
 Specimens of English Litekatore. ICmo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 SMITH (Geo., LL.D) Life of John WiUon, D.D., F.E.S., of 
 Bombay, Fifiy Years MiBsionary and Pl.ilaiilhiopist in the East. 
 With I'ortrait and Illastralions. 8vo. 18«. 
 
 (Philip). A History of the Ancient World, from the 
 
 Creation to the Fall of the Roman Empire, a.d. 476. Fourth Bdiiian. 
 3 Vols. 8vo. 31s. 6d. 
 
 SHAW (T. B.). Manual of English Literature. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 • Specimens of English Literature. Selected from the 
 
 Chief Writers. Post 8vo. 7». 6d. 
 
 (Robert). Visit to High Tartary, Yarkand, and Kashgar 
 
 (formerly Chinese Tartary), and Return Journey over the Karakorum 
 Pass. With Map and Illustrations. 8vo. 16*. 
 
 SIEBBA LEONE ; Described in Letters to Friends at Home. By 
 A Laot. Post 8to. 3s. 6U. 
 
 SIMMON'S (Capt.). Constitution and Practice of Courts-Mar- 
 tial. Seventh Edition, 8vo. 15s. 
 STANLEY'S (Dean) WORICS :— 
 
 Sinai and Palestine, In couneiiou with their History. Map. 
 8to. Us. 
 
 Bible in the Holy Land ; Extracted from the above Work. 
 Weodcuts. Fcap. 8^0 2s. &d. 
 
 Eastern CnnKCH. Plans. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Jewish Church. From the Earliest Times to the Christian 
 Era. 3 Vols. 8vo. 38«. 
 
 Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians. 8vo. 18s. 
 
 Life of Dr. Arnold, of Rugby. With selections from his 
 Correspondence. With portrait. 2 vols. Croivn 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Church of Scotland. Svo, 7«. 6rf. 
 
 Memorials of Canterbury Cathedral. Woodcuts. Post 
 
 8to. 7s. 6d. 
 Westminster Abbey. With Illustrations. 8yo. 15s. 
 Sermons during a Tour in the East. Svo. ^s. 
 Addresses and Charges of the late Bishop Stanley. With 
 
 Memoir. Svo. 10s. 6d. 
 ST. HUGH OF AVALON, Bishop of Lincoln ; his Life by G. G. 
 
 Feebt, Canon of Lincoln. Post Svo. 
 ST. JOHN (Charles). Wild Sportji and Natural History of the 
 
 Highlands of Scotland. New, and beautifully illustrated Edition. 
 
 Crown Svo. 15s. Cheap Edition, Pust Svo. 8s. 6d. 
 
 (Bayle) Adventures in the Libyan Desert. Post Svo. 2«. 
 
 SUMNER'S (Bishop) Life and Episcopate during 40 Years. By 
 
 Rev. G. H. SuuKEB. Portrait. Svo. 14s. 
 STREET (6. E.) Gothic Architecture in Spain. From Personal 
 
 Observations made during several Journeys. With lUastratlons. 
 
 Royal Svo. SOs. ,,,.„.■„, 
 . — Italy, chieiiy in Brick and 
 
 Marble. With Notes of Tours in the North of Italy. With 60 Il- 
 lustrations. Royal Svo. 2es. 
 
30 LIST OF WORK& 
 
 STUDENTS' MANUALS:— 
 
 OiD Testament Histoet ; from the Creation to the Return of 
 the Jews from CaptiTity. Maps and Woodcutp. Post 8vo. Is. Gd. 
 
 New Testament Histoet. With an Introduction connecting 
 the History of the Old and Kew Testaments. Maps and Woodcuts. 
 Post 8vo. la. 6d 
 
 EooiESUSTiOAL HisTOKT. The Christian Cliureh during the- 
 First Ten Centuries ; From its Foundation to the fall establishment 
 of the Holy Bonian Enipireand the Papal Power. Post &vo. Ts. 6d. 
 
 Bkglish Chukoh Histoet, from the accession of Henry VIII. 
 to the silencing of Convocation in the 18th Century. By Kev. G. G. 
 Peeey. Post Sto. Tb. M. 
 
 Ahoient Histoet oe the East ; Egypt, Assyria, Babylonia, 
 Media, Persia, Asia Minor, and Phoenicia. Woodcuts. Post 8to. 75. 6d. 
 Ancieht Geography. By Eet. W. L. Betah. Woodcuts. 
 Post 8to. 7s. id. 
 \ Histoet OF Greeoe ; from the Earliest Times to the Eoman 
 CoDquest. By Wm. Smith, D.C.L. Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. Is. 6d. 
 *^* Questions on the above Work, 12mo. 2s. 
 
 Histoet of Bome ; from the Earliest Times to the Estab- 
 lishment of the Empire. By Dean LiddeijL. Woodcuts, Crown 8vo. 
 7s. ed. 
 
 Oibboh's Decline ahe Fall of the Bomak Empiee. Woodcuts. 
 Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Hallam's Histoet op Eueope during the Middle Ages. 
 Post Sto. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Hallam's Histoet op Ekqlahb ; from the Accession of 
 Henry VII. to the Death of George II, Post Bvo. 78. Gd. 
 I Hume's Histoet op Englahd from the Invasion of Julius 
 Caasar to the Revolution in 1688. Continued down to 1868. Wood- 
 cats. PostSvo. Is.ed. 
 
 *^* Questions on the above Wolk, 12mo. 2s. 
 
 Histoet of Eeakoe; from the Earliest Times to the Estab- 
 lishment of the Second Empire, 1652. By Eev., H. W, Jeevis. Wood- 
 cuts. Post 8vo. 7s, 6d. 
 
 Ekglish Lahguage. By Geo. P. Maesh. Post 8vo. Ts. 6d. 
 
 Ehglish Ljteeatuee. By T. B. Shaw, M.A. Poft 8vo. 7s.6d. 
 
 Specimees op Ekglish Liteeature from the Chief Writers. 
 By T, B. Shaw. Post 8vo. 7«. Bd. 
 
 MoBEEH Geography ; Mathematical, Physical and Descriptive. 
 ByEEV.W. L.Bbvan. Woodcuts. PostSvo. 7s. ed. 
 
 MoKAL Philosopht, By Wm. Flemikg, D.D. Post 8vo. 7«. 6tf; 
 
 Blaokstoke's Commentaries on the. Laws op Ekglakd. By 
 K. Malcolm Keer, LL.D. PostSvo. 7s. ed. 
 
 STYPFE (Khdtt). Strength.of Iron and. Steel. PJates. Svo. 12s. 
 
 SOMEKVTLLE (Mart). Personal EecoUections from Early Life 
 to. Old Age.. With her Correspondence. Portrait. Ciown 8vo. 32s. 
 
 Physical Geography. Portrait. Post Bvo. 9s. 
 
 Connexion of the Physical. ScienoeB. Portrait. 
 
 Post Svo. 9s. 
 
 Molecular and Microseopio Science. Ulustrs' 
 
 2 Vols. PoalSvOi 21s. 
 
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 81 
 
 STANHOPE'S (Earl) WOEKS :— 
 
 HiSTOur OP England pucm the Eeign of QlmEN Anne to 
 
 THE Peace OP Versailles 1701-83. 9 vols. PostSvo. 6s. eacb. 
 Bkitish India, prom its Origin to 1783. 8to. 3s. 6d, 
 History op " Fortt-Fite." Post 8ro. 3«. 
 Historical and Ceitioal Essays. Post 8vo. 3s. Sd. 
 French Eetrbat from Moscow, and other Essais. Post 8to. 
 
 7s. 6<J. 
 
 Life of Belisarios. Post 8to. 10s. 6d, 
 Life op Condb. Post 8to. 8s. 6d, 
 Miscellanies. 2 Vols. Post 8to. 13«. 
 Story of Joan op Arc. Fcap. 8vo. Is. "" 
 
 Addresses on Various Occasions. 16mo. Is. 
 SOTJTHEY (Robt). Lives of Bunyau and Cromwell. Post 8vo, 2s. 
 
 SWAINSON (Canon). Nicene and Apostles' Creeds; Their 
 Literary History ; together witli some AccouEt of " The Creed of St. 
 Atbanasius." 870. 16s. 
 
 SYBEL (Von) History of Europe during the French Eeyolution, 
 
 1739—1795. 4 Vols. 8vo. 48s. 
 
 SYMONUS' (Rev. W.) Eecords of the Eocks; or Notes on the 
 Geology, Natural History, and Antiquities of North and South Wales, 
 Siluria, Devon, and Cornwall. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12s. 
 
 THIBAUT'S (Ahtoine) Parity in Musical Art. Translated from 
 the German. With a prefatory Memoir hy W. H. Gladstone, M.P. 
 Post Svo. 6s. 
 
 THIELMANN (Baron). Journey through the Caucasus to 
 Tabreez, Kurdistan, down the Tigris and Euphrates to Nineveh and 
 Babylon, and across the Desert to Palmyra. Translated by Chas, 
 Heneage, Illustrations. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. ISs. 
 
 THOMS (W. J.). Longevity of Man; its Facts and its Fiction. 
 
 With Observations on the more Kemarkablo Instances, Post 8vc. 
 
 IDs. 6d. 
 THOMSON (Archbishop). Lincoln's Inn Sermons. 8ro. 10s. 6d. 
 
 — ■ Life in the Light of God's Word, Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 TITIAN'S LIFE AND TIMES. With some account of his 
 Family, chiefly from new and unpiiblifhed Eecords. By Crowe and 
 Cavaloaselle. With Poitrait and Illustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. 42s. 
 
 TOCQUBVILLE't^ State of Society in France before theEevolution, 
 
 1789,and on the Causes which led to that Event. Translated. by Henet 
 
 Ebeve. 8vc. 14s. 
 TOMLINSON (Chas.) ; The Sonnet ; Its Origin; Structure, and 
 
 Place in Poetry. With translations from Dame, Petrarch, &c. Host 
 
 Svo. 9s. 
 TOZBR (Kev. H. F.) Highlands of Turkey, with Visits to Mounts 
 
 Ida, Athos, Olympus, and Pelion. 2 Vols. Crown Svo. 24s. 
 Lectures on the Geography of Greece; Map. Post 
 
 8vo. 9s. 
 TBISTEAM (CIhon) Great Sahara. Illustrations. Ctown Svo. 15*. 
 _^ Land of Moab ; Travels and Discoveries on the East 
 
 Side,of the Dead Sea and theiJordan. Illustrations, Crown Svo. 15s. 
 TEUBO (Bishop op). ~ The Cathedral: its Necessary Place in 
 
 tie Life and Work of the Church. Crown 8vo. 
 
82 LIST OF WORKS PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 
 
 TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCE among the Greeks, Albanians, 
 Turks, Armenians, and Bulgarians. By an English Lady. Edited 
 by Stanley Lame Poolk. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 2l5. 
 
 TWISLETON (Edwakd). The Tongue not Essential to Speech, 
 with lUuslrations of the Power of Speech in the case of the African 
 Confessors. PostSvo. 6». 
 
 TWISS' (Hobaoe) Life of Lord Eldon. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 21s. 
 
 TYLOE (E. B.) Researches into 1 he Early History of Mankind, 
 and Development of Civilization. Srd Edition Revised. 8vo. 12a. 
 
 Primitive Culture ; the Development of Mythology, 
 
 Philosophy, Religion, Art, and Custom. 2 Vols. 8vo. 24*. 
 
 VAMBERY (Aeminids) Travels from Teheran across the Turko- 
 man Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian. Illustrations. 8vo. 21^. 
 
 VAN LENNEP (Henkt J.) Travels in Asia Minor. With 
 Illustrations of Biblical Literature, and Archseology, "With Woodcuts, 
 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 24j. 
 
 Modern Customs and Manners of Bible Lands, 
 
 in illustration of Scripture. With Maps and 300 Illustrations. 
 2 Vols. Svo. 2U. 
 
 VIRCHOW (Professor). The Freedom of Science in the 
 
 Modern State. Fcap. Svo, 2s. 
 
 WELLINGTON'S Despatches during his Campaiens in India, 
 Denmark, Portugal, Spain, the Low Countries, and France. 8 Vols. 
 Svo, 20*. each. 
 
 Supplementary Despatches, relating to India, 
 
 Ireland, Denmark, Spanish America, Spain, Portugat, France, Con- 
 gress of Vienna, Waterloo and Paris, 14 Vols. Svo. 203. each. 
 *,,* An Index. Svo. 20s. 
 
 Civil and Political Correspondence. Vols. I. to 
 
 VII. 8vo. 20.1. each. 
 
 Speeches in Parliament. 2 Vols. Svo. 42«. 
 
 WHEELER (G.). Choice of a Dwelling ; a Practical Handbook of 
 Useful Information on Building a House, Plans. PostSvo. Ts. 6d. 
 
 WHITE (W. H.). Manual of Naval Architecture, for the use of 
 Naval Officers, Shipowners, Shiphuilderj, and Yachtsmen. Illustra- 
 tions. Svo. 24s. 
 
 WILBERFORCE'S (Bishop) Life of William Wilberforce. Portrait. 
 
 Crown Svo. 6s. 
 (Samuel, LL.D.), Lord Bishop of Oxford and 
 
 Winchester; his Life, Edited by A. Rawsos Ashwell, D.D Canon 
 
 of Chichester. With Portraits, &c. 3 Vols. Svo. 
 WILKINSON (Sir J. G.). Manners and Customs of the 
 
 Ancient Egyptians, their Private Life, Laws, Arts, Religion, &c A 
 
 new edition. Edited by Samdel Birch, LL.D. Illustrations 3 Vols 
 
 Svo. 84s. 
 
 — Popular Account of the Ancient Egyptians. With. 
 
 600 Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post Svo. 12». 
 WILSON (John, D.D.), of Bombay, Fifty Years a Philanthropist 
 
 ?.",?.v*''i^''™"'y '" *^^ East; his Life. By Geoeoe Smiib. LL D. 
 
 With Portrait and lllustratioDs. Svo. 18s. 
 
 WOOD'S (Captain) Source of the Oxus. With the Geography 
 
 of the Valley of the Oxus. By Col. Yule. Map. Svo. 12». 
 WORDS OF HUMAN WISDOM. Collected and Arranged by 
 
 E, S. With a Preface by Cahon Liddok. Fcap. Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 YULE'S (Colonel) Book of Marco Polo. Illustrated by the Light 
 of Oriental Writers and Modern Travels. With Maps and 80 Plates. 
 £ Vols. Medium Svo, 63s. 
 
 BRADBORT, AQSEW, & CO., PRINTERS, WHIIEFiUAKS.