St // QJatttell Hniuetaitg ffitbtarg Dt^aca, Nem garb BERNARD ALBERT SINN COLLECTION NAVAL HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY THE GIFT OF BERNARD A. SINN, '97 1919 DA 88.1.S94S9^"""'™»V Library DA St. ,1 k Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924027923063 SI LIFE AND LETTERS OF THE LATE ADMIRAL SIR BARTHOLOMEW JAMES SULIVAN, K.C.B. (:^^*2^u^u//i^ LIFE AND LETTERS OF THE LATE ADMIRAL SIR BARTHOLOMEW JAMES SULIVAN, K.C.B. 1810 — 1890. EDITED BY HIS SON HENRY NORTON SULIVAN. Witk an Introduction by •ADMIRAL SIR G. H. RICHARDS, K.C.B. F.R.S. WITH PORTRAIT, MAP, PLANS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. U K' I 1896, I ^^ -^3 CJ> Aa^IoU^ Printed by Hazell, Watson, & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury. PREFACE. Before attempting a biography of my father, I consulted a distinguished naval officer a^ to khe advisability of adding another to the many existing records of naval men. I desired to seek his opinion as to the general interest likely to be evoked by the work. He urged me to go on with it, saying he considered no one's life would be more interesting or more instructive. Therefore, if I have not fulfilled this expectation, the fault must lie with me, and not with my subject. I then went to a friend competent to advise me on another point, and asked him whether I ought to give the materials for a biography to a literary man to edit, doubting my own capabilities. He said, " What might be gained in literary merit, by employing some one else to write the book, would be lost in biographical interest. Do it yourself." Thus emboldened, I have attempted the work. I set about it with all the more courage that I had so many of my father's letters and journals, written at the very time the events and actions they describe took place, so that very little original matter remained for me to write. More- over, I have to thank my publisher, Mr. Murray, for the valuable literary assistance he has rendered me. There has been unavoidable delay in the publication of these pages. I have had but little time with my other duties for their preparation. The amount of material has VI PREFACE. been so great that much labour has been required to choose the most interesting parts, and to avoid overloading the work with what would be of concern only to the family. Critics must remember that the letters were dashed off by a very busy man, often late at night, after a day of hard work, and not infrequently of danger and of con- flict. Their interest lies, therefore, more in their vividness than in their literary accuracy. I am fortunate in procuring a letter from the pen of him who is best able to give a picture of my father. Admiral Sir G. Richards was his lieutenant in the Philomel, and served with him through the striking scenes of the war in the Parana. He was afterwards his colleague in many a deliberation on naval matters, and is himself a surveyor and sailor of eminence. My father was often desired by us to write out his own history, but he was only prevailed upon to begin it about two years before his death, when his powers were failing. I feel sure, from the few pages of his autobiography I am able to give, my readers will also regret he was not able to write more himself. I give what he wrote at the age of seventy-seven with hardly a correction. There is no need for me to say very much by way of introduction. His own letters and those of his friends will best show what manner of man he was ; but some few remarks may help my readers to form a picture of him. Bartholomew James Sulivan was born at Mylor, near Falmouth, on November i8th, 1810. His father, then Captain Thomas Ball Sulivan, R.N., was an able man of fine character and sterling uprightness. He had no resources besides his naval pay — too often but half-pay ; and as he had a large family, the school in which they were trained was one of economy and self-restraint PREFACE. vii When a commodore on the South American station, he was offered promotion from the Companionship of the Bath, which he then held, to the higher honour of the K.C.B. But he had to decline this promotion, not being able to afford the high fees then exacted from the recipients of knighthood. His four sons all entered the navy. The eldest of the family is the subject of this memoir ; the youngest and only surviving one is the present Admiral George Lydiard Sulivan. Thomas Ball Sulivan resided with his family for the latter part of his life at Flushing, near Falmouth. He died in 1857, at the age of seventy-seven, and was buried in the family vault at Mylor. On leaving his grave, the old family friend and medical adviser. Dr. Miller, said, " There lies the best husband, the best father, the best friend." Distinguished men are often the sons of remarkable women. Sir B. James Sulivan's mother was the younger daughter of a well-known naval officer. Her father, Admiral James,* had brought up his two daughters in luxury, and the younger was married before his large property, derived chiefly from prize-money made in the old wars, had been lost through misplaced confidence and generous liberality. Mrs. Sulivan had studied music in London under Mozart, and to her old age retained her beautiful touch on the piano. When her father's money had been all spent, she uncomplainingly settled down to the hard work of bringing up her large family on small means. She made my father promise to read daily the appointed * The journals of Admiral Bartholomew James, interesting both on account of the remarkable adventures they record and the humorous style in which they are written, are now being prepared for publication by my brother, Commander Sulivan, and will be brought out by the Naval Records Society. — Ed. Vlll PREFACE. psalms, and to pray the collect before the communion service. He said before his death that he had never omitted that prayer, and hardly ever omitted reading the psalms. She was certainly a proud woman, but kept her pride in check by her strong religious feeling. She had her father's great vein of humour, and could tell a story, even in old age, with great wit and power, yet in her quiet, gentle way. All she ever said had the odour of her truly sanctified spirit. She lived almost in prayer and the study of the Bible. She was a brave woman of great force of character, a staff of strength to her husband and children in all trials, and she always made the best of everything. Her sufferings during the last twenty years of her life were often great, but she bore them unmurmuringly. She died in 1874, at the age of eighty-six. To return to my father. As a lad he was small, but grew very rapidly afterwards. At the age of seventeen he was only five feet two inches ; at eighteen, five feet nine ; ultimately measuring five feet eleven. He was considered a remarkably handsome man, of fine presence. He had large, dark, deep-set eyes, which, like his mother's, never lost their clearness and brilliancy. Though somewhat bald in old age, he retained the colour of his hair almost to the last. His sight was so good he could see ithe satellites of Jupiter with the naked eye up to the age of forty-five. In whatever company he was, his was the pervading presence. Fond of genial society, he charmed and in- terested every one with his conversation, intermixed as it generally was with a wealth of anecdote. It is im- possible to describe the personal magnetism he exercised on all who came near him. To rich and poor, old and young, he was the same earnest, helpful friend and com- panion But when there was cause for it, he could be PREFACE. ix a stern rebuker of meanness or wrong-doing. His honesty of purpose was so great that no consideration of personal interest would lead him to modify his remarks, when he thought it necessary to speak straight out. I think that his chief characteristic was his simple and manly piety. Although he had always lived a pure and correct life, his first deep religious convictions commenced about the time of his joining the Beagle. It has often been remarked that when a sailor or a soldier is religious, he becomes an " out and out " Christian. In the society of mess-mates no half-and-half faith will do. The life is watched, and any inconsistency of practice with profession is quickly noted. My father showed his faith by his works. It was said of him that his entrance into the mess-room did more to stop any objectionable conversation than the appearance of the chaplain. He showed great interest in the moral and religious welfare of the men under him. A strict Sabba- tarian, he avoided all possible work on Sunday. He would never accept an invitation to dinner on that day, even from his commander-in-chief, and would rarely write a letter home. There being no chaplain in such small vessels as he commanded, he not only conducted the ordinary ser- vices himself, but instituted classes as well. When duty called, he exposed himself fearlessly to danger, with the fullest knowledge of the risk he ran, but with a simple faith in a Divine Providence watching over him. If suffered to fall, he knew the like protection would be over those he left behind. He was confident in his own opinion when his experience had given him an absolute right to pronounce judgment ; but I could give many instances to show how modest he was as to matters he had not fully studied, though they might seemingly lie in his own province. X PREFACE. The keenness with which, as will be seen in the following pages, he felt any injustice to himself, and the heart-burn- ings caused thereby, must not be considered as springing from a desire of self-aggrandisement. In his own case he sometimes felt he was fighting the battle of the whole naval service. He thought that in relation to the recogni- tion bestowed upon their services, naval oiificers were sometimes at a disadvantage compared with those of equal rank in the army. As Napoleon Bonaparte has observed, the glamour which surrounds the picturesque, ever-present aspect of the army makes that branch of the service receive more constant attention and honour than the sister-service, which, although first in precedence and first in importance in our country, is by the very necessity of its work often kept in the background. With a sailor's inherited instincts and a sailor's training under such masters in the art as his father and FitzRoy, he at least equalled them. An officer once said to one of my brothers, " I served both with your grandfather and your father. The former was one of the best sailors of his day ; the latter the best sailor I knew." His early surveying experience was put to good purpose in war-time, and men wondered at his talent for " smelling the shoals." But in the hard work of surveying the power had been gained of drawing rapid conclusions as to the contour of the hidden ground from the outlines of the shore visible. It was Wellington, I believe, who spoke of the power the soldier should possess of guessing " what was on the other side of the hill." Many a lesson have I had from my father in earth-configuration during our walks, and he would illus- trate the rules by which he navigated such rivers as the Parana from the stream running through the sand. His mathematical accuracy stood him in good stead in his examinations and in his surveying work. Of intense PREFACE. xi quickness of perception and power of work himself, he perhaps expected more from his subordinates than they could always accomplish. As will be seen later, when those around him in the Baltic were dilatory and resource- less, he, by his energy, almost enforced action upon them. Greater caution in utterance would, perhaps, have been an advantage to him. It was said of him that, one day in London, meeting a friend, he stopped him and exclaimed, " Why, you are the man we have just been talking about, and I was saying what a shame it is they have given that appointment to you." He possessed a most active mind, which was ever at work. Far-seeing in his judgment, he never let an event pass without noting the lessons to be derived from it. It will be seen that he proposed many valuable schemes of naval reform, and lived to see the greater part of his plans adopted. Endowed also with great constructive abilities, his plans of organisation and strategy invariably met with success. As a friend said of him, " his whole professional career was marked by a happy faculty of organisation and a bold and skilful execution of plans." He possessed the combative temperament in a strong degree. He never rested content, after seeing a defective or unjust arrange- ment, until he had got the mischief remedied. This led him sometimes into conflict with others, doubtless often to the diminishing of his popularity ; but generous-minded men admired the powers which lesser men envied. The late Admiral Sir A. Cooper Key once stated at a public dinner at Singapore that " Sulivan was one of the most profound authorities on naval matters then living," so it must not be thought I am estimating his opinions at too high a value. His fondness for children was very great. At first. Xll PREFACE. perhaps, his habits of discipline were rather too strongly- exercised in the home circle, though he modified his views of training later in life. In the present day a little more of this home discipline would be beneficial to the rising generation. No father was a greater playmate with his boys. Shooting, fishing, boat-sailing, kite-flying, he was their eager coach, no one enjoying the fun more than himself — all the time teaching by demonstration and by story. During our usual holidays at Flushing, Cornwall, our time was chiefly spent in boat-sailing and yachting. This boating was his greatest delight. If he could not get afloat, the next best thing was a pond and a boy's boat. When he was on a visit to me at Newcastle-on-Tyne, I took him to the Leases' Park to see the model yacht sailing. He was soon down on his knees, shifting the gear of the small boys' boats and instructing the owners in the art of sail-handling. On one occasion, when he was as usual whistling and singing about the house, my mother observed, " Oh, a boy he is, and a boy he always will be." Indeed, this delight- ful boyishness was a great feature in his character. The daughter of a man who had been in the Baltic in one of the ships of the fleet once spent some days in our home at Bournemouth as nurse to my brother's children. Her father said to her afterwards, " And does the old admiral keep all his faculties ? " She replied, " The old admiral ! Why, he is just like a boy — and you have to ' hush him up ' when the children are asleep, to stop him running about the house whistling.'' In 1837 he married one of the eight daughters of Admiral Young, of Barton End, near Stroud. Admiral Young's brother was Admiral Sir William Young, G.C.B. ; his father. Admiral James Young ; his grandfather was Secretary to PREFACE. Xlll the Admiralty. Of his four sons, two were in the army, two in the navy. I trust much will be found in these pages calculated to be useful to officers of the present day, and that naval men, as well as the authorities at the Admiralty, may be led to think more highly of the art of the pilot and of the surveyor, which has been truly said to be " so useful in peace and so terrible in war." H. N. S. Oakhurst, Colwyn Bay, December 1895. CONTENTS PAGES PREFACE . . . . . V-xiii REMINISCENCES ....... Xxi-XXxii CHAPTER I. AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. 1810-29. Admiral Thomas Ball Sulivan, C.B. — Wreck of the Anson — War with America — Saving Life — Education — The Royal Naval College — H.M.S. Thetis — A Chaplain acting as Bishop — -Tea v. Grog — Salvage Services at Gibraltar — A Wounded Mid — A Sixty-five-foot Sea — Friend or Foe ? — Amirante Brown — Brazilian Impressment — Lord and Lady Ponsonby — Jack's Love of Drink — H.M.S. Beagle — The Beagles Ghost — A Pampero . . ... 1-35 CHAPTER n. H.M.S. "beagle," H.M. ketch " ARROW," ETC. 1831-42. Lieutenant— H.M.S. Beagle— k.Axmx3\. R. O'B. FitzRoy— A Somnambulist at Tea — The Beagle ships a Sea — Botany — Rough Boat-work — Healthy Appetites — Darwin fossil- digging — A Merry Party — Survey of Chiloe — A Christmas Dinner — Diving — ^Voyage round the World — The Reception of the Astronomer Royal — Darwin's Sea-sickness — Admiral Mellersh and Mr. King on Sulivan's Seamanship — Marriage — Survey of the Falkland Islands — FitzRoy on Sulivan's Capabilities — Loss oi Pincher — Ta.& Arrow — The Falkland Islands — Commander — H.M. Brig Philomel — Botanising in the Falklands — Tussac-grass in Scotland . . . 36-51 xvi CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. 1842-46. PAGES Cause of the War— General Rosas— Siege of Monte Video- Garibaldi— Amirante Brown— British and French Inter- vention— H. M.S. Philomel—" The Pride of the Station "— Seamanship— Commodore Purvis and Amirante Brown— Anxiety— Besieged— The Gorgon on Shore — Up the Uruguay with Garibaldi— Saving Lives— Paucity of Warlike Stores — Opening the Parana 52-7° CHAPTER IV. THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. 1845-46. British and French Squadrons— Drilling Seamen— Opening Fire— The Ships taken in detail— Gallant Conduct— The Enemy's Heavy Losses — Hope cutting the Chains — Storm- ing the Batteries — Spiking Guns — Individual Incidents — Strategical Inferences— Dr. Niddrie — Captain TrShouart — Honouring a Brave Enemy ...... 7 '"92 CHAPTER V. ASCENT OF THE PARANA. Opening up the Interior Country — Arduous Ascent of the Parana — Paraguayan Politics — The Convoy under Fire — Corrientes — Intricate Navigation — An Artful Dodge — Home — Dis- cipline — Promotions — No Medal — On Honorary Rewards — The Royal Dockyard Volunteer Brigade . . .. 93-117 CHAPTER VI. WAR WITH RUSSIA. 1854. Jingoism reproved — Admiral Sir C. Napier — Manning the Fleet — Surveyor and Pilot — Admiralty Instructions — H.M.S. Lightning — Reminiscences by Captain Dyer — The Use of a Surveying-ship — Sweden — Ships' Individualities — Pilots or Charts ? — " Boots " to the Fleet — Hango — Time wasted 118- 144 CONTENTS. xvii CHAPTER VII. HANGO. PAGES The Fleet m Danger— Wormso — Adverse Influence— Recon- noitring the Forts— Diverse Ways of attacking— Strategical Questions— Action by Arrogant and Hecla — Finnish Peasants 145-163 CHAPTER VIII. RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. Comrades' Testimony — Examining Channels — ^Viewing the Forts — The Governor asleep— Making Friends — Sulivan's Plan — Cholera — Napier's Plan — Why not attempted — Decision of British and French Governments .... 164-184 CHAPTER IX. RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. British and French Fleets before Cronstadt — Lightning leading the Squadron in — Situation of the Russian Fleet — Strength of the Position — Napier goes close in — Biorko Sound — A Mare's Nest at Koivasto — From " Boots " to " Pioneer " — Cholera increasing — Baro Sound — Sweaborg seen at last — The Bomarsund Secret — ^A Defence of Napier — Ships v. Forts — Why Cronstadt was not attacked — What were Nelson's Tactics ? 185-207 CHAPTER X. THE FALL OF BOMARSUND. Lightning leads — An Official Prisoner — Arrival of French Troops — Puffing — A Target of Admirals and Generals — Preparations for Attack — Selection — Landing — Hecla on Shore — Sounding under the Fort — The French open Fire — Sulivan's Escape— Ramsay's Battery— The Towers fall — Bomarsund surrenders — Promotions — Wood or Iron for Ships' Bottoms ? 208-241 b xviii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XL THE LAST OF BOMARSUND. PAGES Revel viewed— Heavy Gale— A Russian Frigate— Congratula- tions-Blowing up the Forts— Cholera Mortality— Dirt and Disease— A Gale at Nargen— Newspaper Criticisms — Promotions— Jovial Prisoners— Revel— Napier's Firmness- Napier nearly caught— Press Attacks— Nelson's Tactics — Ships V. Forts— Home — Various Schemes against Swea- borg 242-271 CHAPTER Xn. RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT — INFERNAL MACHINES. 1855- Sulivan's Plans for 1855— Cronstadt — Adequate Means not provided — Urging on the Unwilling — Sea clear to Swea- borg — Peeps at Revel, Sweaborg, and Hogland — Biorko Sound — Prizes — Cronstadt seen — Its Strength — Surveying on the North Side — The Merlin explodes Infernals — The Effects — A Sad Misunderstanding — War Policy . . 272-297 CHAPTER XIII. INFERNAL MACHINES — A RUSSIAN COUNTRY HOUSE. Sweaborg — A Flag-of-truce — Cronstadt — Insufficient Means — An Infernal Machine — Accident to Admiral Seymour — The Strength of Cronstadt — Spare Helsingfors — A Russian Baron — Criticisms on our Conduct — A Country House — Preparing for Sweaborg — Russian Gun-boats — Companion of the Bath 298-317 CHAPTER XIV. BOMBARDMENT OF SWEABORG. Helsingfors — Plan of Attack on Sweaborg— A Disclosure — Making a Mess of it — A Second Bungle — The Lessons taught therefrom — A Successful Attack — Accurate Ranges — A Series of Explosions — The Second Day — One Fort beats Three Ships — Bad Mortars — Extensive Conflagrations — A Plea for Helsingfors — Congratulations — Merlin Ashore — Effects of Mortar Fire— Dundas and Penaud's Des- patches — Vertical Fire 318-343- CONTENTS. XIX CHAPTER XV. AFTER SWEABORG. PAGES Revel — Russian Losses — A Seaman's Letter — A Patriotic Baroness — A Unique Surveying Trip — Random Firing- Tall Talk — Prince Leiningen — A Russian Cutting-out Scheme — -Windy Despatches — Fancied Glory — Nargen Anchorage — Overworked — Return Home — Cronstadt — A Compliment from the Enemy — Honours — Seniority, not Service — A Choice of Appointments — A Sub-marine Experi- ment .... 344-374 CHAPTER XVL THE BOARD OF TRADE. 1857-65- Professional OfScer and Acting Harbour Engineer — Naval Re- forms — Holidays — Overwork — Resignation — Reminiscences by Lord Farrer, Sir J. H. Briggs, and Bishop Stirling — Flag Rank .... .... 375-390 CHAPTER XVn. RETIREMENT. 1865-90. Life at Bournemouth — Not Idle — Consulted by Admiralty — K.C.B. — Loss of a Son — Old Chums — "Crossing the Bar" 391-395 APPENDICES. A. Royal Dockyard Volunteers (1848): Too Successful — Mechanics Good Gunners . . .... 397 B. Life in the Falkland Islands (1848-51) : Wives at a Premium — Farming — Improving the Breeds — Mutiny on Board . 400 C. Proposed Strategic and Refuge Harbour at Filey (1859) ■ 402 D. Coast Defences and Vertical Fire (1859) : Badly constructed Forts at Plymouth — Spithead Defences — Ships v. Forts — Battery Construction — Barrier and Boom Defences — Ver- tical Fire — Pilotage — The Ram suggested— Foreigners using Howitzers 404 XX CONTENTS. E. Navigating and Surveying Officers (1846-63) : Abolition of the Master Line— Pilotage in Intricate Waters — Practice v. Theory — The Surveying Service — Pioneer Officers . .411 F. Origin of the Naval Reserve (1846-60) : Manning. . 418 G. The Board of Admiralty (1861) : A Commander-in-chief of the Navy • . 419 H. Navy : Titles of Officers— Flag Rank 423 I. Merchant Shipping (i860): Coast Lights, who should pay for them — Compulsory Pilotage . .... 424 J. The Army Volunteers (1852) : How they originated . . 426 K. Fleet Actions (i860) : The Chief to direct, not to fight — Large v. Small Guns . 427 L. Admiral Sulivan's Remarks on Passages in Mr. G. Butler Earp's Work on the Campaign of 1854— The Handling of the Russian Fleet 428 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait . .... . . Frontispiece Rear-Admiral Chads' Squadron on the way to Bomarsund To face ^. 210 Ruins of Fort Tzee, Bomarsund ... . ,, 230 Fort Nottich, Bomarsund . ... ,, 248 LIST OF SKETCHES. A Principle of Gunnery . . ... The Forts at Bomarsund The Main Defences at Cronstadt . An " Infernal Machine " PLANS AND CHARTS. Rio Parana and Adjacent Country Obligado — Plan of Attack .... Hango Bay . . . Cronstadt — Main Channel .... Bomarsund and the Channels leading thereto Sweaborg Roads Cronstadt — General Chart Sweaborg — Plan of Attack Or ■i- 157 ft 169 ,, 190 tt 302 Facing ;p. 55 Onp 74 153 188 222 268 288 330 PERSONAL REMINISCENCES OF ADMIRAL SIR B. JAMES SULIVAN. BY ADMIRAL SIR GEORGE HENRY RICHARDS, K.C.B., F.R.S. When it was suggested to me that I should write a brief introductory notice to the memoirs of the late Admiral Sir Bartholomew James Sulivan, K.C.B., then being prepared by his son, I could not but feel that at any rate it would be a grateful task to one who had been a follower, admirer, and life-long friend. At the same time, when I asked myself whether the life of a naval officer extending over a period which offered but few opportunities of distinction for the naval service would attract public interest, and when I called to mind that the life of but one admiral, and he a very distinguished one, had been published within my own recollection, I confess that I felt doubtful whether the public would feel sufficient concern in such a work to justify its appearance in print. The answer which came to me was that the biography of any man of eminence and high character, in whatever walk of life he had moved, and especially of such a man as the subject of this memoir, could not fail to be interest- ing as well as instructive, not only to many of his own profession, but also to that large class of English men and women who are connected with the naval service. It would thus have a fascination from the every-day life xxii PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. and personal incidents of some fifty years ago, in the days of wooden ships and masts and sails, and the quaint habits of thought and speech now fast falling into disuse — days when men lived on the sea for months together, when the sea was their world, and their ship was their pride and their home for years. All this is now changed in many respects, and in how comparatively brief a period. But the sea does not change, and the characteristics of the seaman can scarcely do so. Promptitude and action, self-denial and discipline, must ever be the watchwords of the navy, in some respects, perhaps, even in a greater degree now than of old. Whether sailing in ships, or steaming in the ponderous iron-cased machines of the present day, those whose business lies in the great waters must be seamen still. All these qualities were possessed in the highest degree by the subject of this sketch, though the chief interest which may be looked for in the following reminiscences must doubtless be due to the character of the man himself He was generous and genial in disposition, simple and modest in his tastes and habits, yet lofty in all his conceptions, while a high moral tone pervaded his life from early boyhood. His professional qualities were perhaps unrivalled — a born seaman and strategist, instinctively a pilot in the most unknown and difficult waters, never at fault, keen to see, and as swift to execute. He, in my opinion, had a greater instinctive knowledge of real pilotage, strategy, and the art of war than any man I ever knew or read of He was never intrusive, and always loyal. Knowing well his own powers, he merely wished them to be admitted, not to be ignored. He was hasty and impulsive to a degree, it is true, when it rested with others to carry out a service which he felt must be done with promptitude and decision ; and this cost him, .PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. XXlll perhaps, some friends, for the time ; but it was soon forgotten, for in action or in any difficulties he was cool and collected, with an unerring judgment in all professional matters. None withheld their admiration for qualities and gifts which were perhaps unequalled. My first service connection with Sir James Sulivan, then commander of the surveying-vessel Philomel, was in the year 1842, when I served with him for four years on the surveys of the Falkland Isles, the river Plata, and the upper waters of the rivers Paraguay and Parana. From the fact of my having been brought up as a surveying officer, his own branch of the naval profession, I had the privilege and the advantage of a close connection with him, and it was during these years that I was able to form the opinions of his character which I have already expressed. It may perhaps be thought by the profession generally that the command of a surveying-vessel with a hundred men is scarcely the test by which to judge of the capabilities of an officer for high command and great responsibilities. My experience does not bear out such views ; but if I am wrong, Sulivan, at any rate, was the exception, as was proved in his after-career. He had served an apprentice- ship of six years as a lieutenant in the Beagle, under FitzRoy, in the tempestuous regions of Magellan Straits and Cape Horn, such as few men had experienced. He had, moreover, a peculiar fitness for the command of men. According to the custom in those days, he was permitted to choose his own crew, and a finer set of seamen was rarely collected together, most of them from his native place, Falmouth. No man had a stricter idea of discipline than he, but his strong sense of justice and his unremitting consideration and care for every one under his command gave him a moral influence such as is, perhaps, rarely met with, and rendered punishment in xxiv PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. any shape almost unknown. Every man was a seaman, but every man knew that the captain was the best and the boldest among them. His activity of mind and body were equally remarkable. One moment he could be seen at the mast-head with his sketch-book, carrying out the duty of the survey ; at another he would be in the chains, showing the leadsman his duties when the ship was in some critical position. The operations in the Parana in 1845 by the English and French squadrons against the Dictator Rosas gave him ample opportunities for the exercise of his special abilities as a strategist and a pilot, and here he occupied the position which in similar cases bad not infrequently been filled by the surveying commander in time of action, viz. strategical adviser to the commander-in-chief ; and he performed the duties with brilliant success. This is not the place to narrate events which will, doubtless, appear in these memoirs from his own journals. Sufficient to say, that he safely piloted the ships, mostly sailing-vessels, for several months, in difficult and alto- gether unknown waters, for many hundred miles into the interior of South America with skill and success, to the admiration of the fleet. The gallant French captain, Tr^houart, who commanded the French division, may be said to have almost worshipped him. There was no more modest man than Sulivan on all points but the one of which he knew himself to be the master-hand ; and on this he never hesitated to give his views with promptitude and decision, and, perhaps, with more haste than was always agreeable. Possibly, this lost him much of the credit which was unquestionably his due ; but he always retained the respect and admiration of such men as James Hope, Cooper Key, and many others who knew and appreciated the value of his services. PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. XXV At the close of this campaign, which opened the waters of those great rivers to the shipping of all countries, Captain Sulivan, with the surveying-ship, returned to England ; and from that time our ways lay apart for many years. Correspondence was always, however, kept up, principally on professional or technical subjects, in which he knew that I placed the highest value on his opinion and advice. Some time after Captain Sulivan's return from the Parana expedition, it was determined by the Government to create a defensive force of volunteers from the dock- yards and other like establishments, and he was selected by the Admiralty to organise and drill the force. These dockyard-battalions, as they were termed, were, however, disbanded after a few months of existence, principally on account of financial reasons, so that in 1848 he again found himself unemployed. He devoted his energies for some time to the consideration of many professional reforms, some of which were subsequently carried out ; but about this period his health suffered, and he was recom- mended a change to a southern climate. He resolved, however, with his characteristic determination, that, if he made any change, it should be to the far south, and the same year he embarked with his whole family in a hired ship, and proceeded to the Falkland Islands, where, and also in the adjacent desolate regions of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, he had already passed many years of his professional life on the work of the Admiralty surveys. He always considered that, although wanting in most of the comforts of civilised life, the Falklands were really health resorts. These treeless and desolate islands always had a peculiar charm for him. His idea was that they were specially fitted for farming purposes, and for the rearing of cattle and sheep. He accordingly XXVI PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. took with him the necessary farming implements, as well as some high-class animals for improving the breeds, and de- termined to make the experiment. He persevered for some years, not without encouraging results, though others who followed his example later were perhaps more successful. By the end of 185 1, on the expiration of his leave of absence, hearing rumours of possible hostilities in Europe, he could not withstand the temptation of once more seeking active service in the profession for which his tastes and abilities best fitted him. He therefore gave up his farming speculation and returned to England, where he used every effort to obtain employment afloat. He had not realised, however, that when a naval officer severs his connection with the sea for ever so short a time, by the traditions of the service his career is generally considered at an end ; and probably that would have been his fate, but for the breaking out of the Russian war, when his well-known abilities could not be dispensed with. He was unhesi- tatingly selected by Sir Francis Beaufort, the Hydrographer of the Admiralty, as the surveying officer to the Baltic fleet, in command of a small steamer suitable for reconnoi- tring purposes. On my return to England at the close of the year 1854 from the arctic regions, and after the first Russian campaign, I lost no time in seeing him, and hearing his views on the war. His great grief was the entirely unprepared state we were in as regarded the proper style and draught of vessels for making an effective attempt on the strongholds of Cronstadt or other fortified points in the Baltic ; but great efforts were made during that winter, though with inadequate results, for the campaign of 1855, and a more efficient steam- vessel was provided for him personally. I was not an eye-witness of any of the operations of that campaign, but I saw Captain Sulivan PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. xxvij again on his return at the close of 1855. There had been some fair successes obtained, chiefly, I believe, owing to his own exertions, but he seemed depressed generally at the barrenness of the operations. Almost the first thing he said to me was, " My head won't stand another campaign like this ; you must take my place." I fancied I knew him better than he knew himself on some points, and I said, " Wait a little ; you won't want to give up your place when the time comes." Soon after preparations were being made on a gigantic scale, which would probably have given us Cronstadt during the following year had hostilities- continued. No one was more heart and soul in these preparations than he, nor had the heads of the Government a more valued and abler adviser. The truth was, he felt that he had not received the encouragement or hearty support of his chiefs in opera- tions which his sanguine mind and his tried experience and judgment led him to believe could be accomplished. Officers and men would work heartily with him, but his opinion decidedly was that there was no very cordial feeling on the part of the higher authorities towards the surveying branch of the service, of which he was perhaps the universally acknowledged leader. His views, I confess, were and are to a certain extent shared in by myself, although I gratefully acknowledge that I have met with some brilliant exceptions. As I have said, I am unable to write of Sulivan's Baltic services from any personal knowledge, but I have read papers connected with this memoir from men of eminence who knew him well ; and I am so much impressed by their views of his character,, coinciding as they do so exactly with my own, formed years before, that I cannot refrain from making this brief reference to them. They will doubtless find a more suitable place in the text. xxviii PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. While he held the office of naval adviser to the Board of Trade, many questions arose between us, on which he often had to suggest or decide, such as the position and nature of sea-lights, sites for docks, defensive positions, etc., in the Colonies. On such points his decisions were always eminently practical, although formed without any local knowledge. On one occasion, I remember, when hostilities seemed imminent with a neighbouring power, I received from him by post a plan showing how he would attempt the capture of a strongly fortified port with a very inferior naval force. The scheme was a bold and ingenious one, drawn up without any information beyond that derived from the English charts, and with a very im- perfect knowledge of the defences. But on visiting them in a friendly way some months afterwards, it occurred to me that, even if the designer himself had been the executor of the attempt, the operation would have been an extremely doubtful one. The incident, however, served to show the readiness of the strategist. Soon after his return to England from the Falklands in 1851, he learnt of the untimely end of Captain Allen Gardiner, R.N., who with his companions had died of starvation in the inhospitable regions of Tierra del Fuego, where they had gone with an inadequately equipped expedition for the purpose of missionary work among the degraded natives. Had Sulivan received the letter sent him on the subject before he left the Falklands, he might have saved the party. He and other friends of Gardiner revived the mission and raised money enough to fit out a mission schooner and establish headquarters in the Falkland Islands. The work of the mission, which has now spread to the whole of South America, has been attended with wonderful results among the savages of Tierra del Fuego. Sulivan continued to be an active and PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. xxix enthusiastic supporter of the South American Missionary- Society, and its nautical adviser to the end of his life. This brief sketch, principally of the professional side of his character, would certainly be considered incomplete by the younger generation of his time who knew him well without some allusion to what may be called the peculi- arities of the characteristics of his ordinary social life. Impulsive and enthusiastic he was, no doubt, on points in which he took a deep interest — and they were many. For argument on any subject he was always keen and ready, though rarely, if ever, convinced against his own preconceived opinions. On politics and religion, like many men of his temperament, he held very strong views, and was always most serious on them. In politics, as the word was understood half a century ago, it need scarcely be said he was extremely liberal. But nothing would ever have induced him, for power or for party, or for personal reasons, to swerve from the high standards of honour and truth which were inherent in him. He used to say in his earlier days that it was his ambition to represent his native place in Parliament ; but he, after all, contented himself with devoting all his energies to reforms in his own profession, to the amelioration and improve- ment of the seamen's position, the modification and uniformity of punishment, and, above all, to the raising the moral tone of the navy. In all these matters he took a deep interest and an active part. Few will deny that the improvements which have been gradually carried out in the naval service, owing to the exertions of such men, have scarcely been equalled in any other great community. He was a strong advocate of justice and of the recognition of individual merit, and was never tired of endeavouring to redress grievances, no matter who the subject might be, sometimes overlooking the fact that in XXX PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. a great service there must be certain hard-and-fast rules, and that cases of individual hardship cannot but occur sometimes, however meritorious the man may be. In Church matters he certainly was what is termed ■extremely low, and perhaps not very tolerant, but was always indefatigable in forw^arding the interest of those who thought with, him. Whatever might be the subject ■of dispute, he was always ready for argument with the other side, and I have more than once been present at a scene, not without its comic aspect, as, for instance, when he was threatened with excommunication by a High Church dignitary on whom he had forced a controversy at the corner of a street. These things, however, never ■caused anything beyond momentary irritation, for it was impossible to quarrel with a man without guile. I remember, too, when he was leaving his ship the Philomel in the Parana for an absence of some months, with the leading members of the expedition on a political and exploring mission to the upper republics, some hundreds of miles into the interior, in giving me his last instruc- tions he said, " I have only one cause of anxiety. You will not let my practice of the Church service be altered ? " I assured him that there was no fear on that head. He added, " Don't increase the scraping and polishing work, and good-bye." It was one of his hobbies that there should be no addition to the men's work by brass-polish- ing, which was a good deal in vogue in those days. His great desire, however, was that his ship should always be smart and efficient, and ready for any service at a moment's notice. He took a great pleasure in beating the fleet at ■evolutions ; but as his taking part in them was purely voluntary — a surveying-ship being exempt from these duties — nothing would induce him to do so on Sundays. We all differed from him in this ; but he steadfastly PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. xxxi maintained his position, saying, " I never will work on Sundays, except to save the ship, or in action." This, not unnaturally, cost us some good-will in the squadron. When he returned from his mission in the Upper Parana and rejoined his ship, hostilities being in a fair way of ceasing, he was ordered to leave the river and return to his regular duties. The ship, on descending the river, had for some miles to run the gauntlet of the enemy's field artillery, which was placed on the high cliffs in the neighbour- hood of the old battle-field of Obligado, and annoyed all passing ships. Sulivan said to me with much glee : " I have a plan which will puzzle these fellows. There must be deep water close under these cliffs. We will pass so close under them that they will not be able to depress their guns on us." He had a barricade of hammocks made about the steering-wheel, and sent all hands below. He took the helm himself, and said, " You keep here by me in case of accidents." The sails were trimmed, and with a light wind aft we passed close under the cliffs in silence. No shot did more than pass some six or eight feet above the deck, several going through the main-sail. This was cleverly done, but some others did not escape so free. Thus I have touched upon some of the salient points in the character of a unique and highly gifted man. It has been said, and perhaps with some truth, that these strange combinations frequently go together. It is certain, however, that Sir James Sulivan was the type of a thoroughly just, upright, and strictly religious man. One of the first things he gave out when he commissioned the Philomel was, '' Profane language and intemperance I never will suffer," and one of the remarkable points in his character was that his presence was alone sufficient to forbid the possibility of any conversation of a loose or questionable kind in any society where he might be. He XXXll PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. was essentially a domestic man, never caring for club life. Nor did he often attend the meetings of the learned societies (although he was a member of the Royal Geo- graphical and the Meteorological Societies), though a more intellectual and more intelligent man, or a more brilliant conversationalist, perhaps, could not often be met with. Though he was not very well known generally among his own brother-officers, from these causes, and from his retiring disposition, yet when troublesome times brought him to the front, his name became a household word among those with whom he was associated. Those who knew Sulivan well must also have known his wife. I have always regarded her character as one of the most beautiful I have ever met with. Perhaps there never were two people more different in their tempera- ments, and yet so entirely suited to one another, — he impulsive and enthusiastic in all he undertook ; she calm, amiable, and gentle, sharing all his feelings, and never opposing his pursuits, whatever direction they took. Knowing them both well from my early days, I went when I could to see them in their retirement at Bourne- mouth in the latter years of their lives. She, long an invalid, generally passed her days lying on a couch in the drawing-room, and he rarely left her. If he found it difficult when he met a friend of olden days to refrain from his old habit of referring to past adventures, though he had been strictly enjoined to avoid all exciting topics, a word or a look from her always brought the calm which had become so essential to his health. He was the first to be taken, and her last words to him were, " I shall not be long after you." G. H. R. The Cottage, Fetch am, Leatherhead, December 1895. LIFE AND LETTERS OF ADMIRAL SIR B. J. SULIVAN, K.C.B. CHAPTER I. AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. 1810-29. " I WAS born at Tregew, in the parish of Mylor, on the banks of Falmouth Harbour, on November i8th, 1810. My father was then Commander Thomas Bail Sulivan, R.N., who, after serving from 1793 throughout the whole war as midshipman and lieutenant, was first lieutenant of the Anson (Captain Lydiard) at the capture of Curasao by Captain Charles Brisbane, on January ist, 1807. For this he was made commander with the two other first lieutenants. On returning in the Anson to England, and not being immediately employed, his former commander. Captain Lydiard, asked him to take a cruise, as his guest, in the Anson, about to be stationed in the Channel. The Anson went into Falmouth on the morning of Christmas Day, 1807, and my father landed with Captain Lydiard. On shore they met the captains of some other ships-of- war in the harbour, and were asked where they were going to dine. Captain Lydiard answered, ' On board ' ; the others replying, ' Come with us to dine at Woodlands with Captain James.' ' We do not know him.' ' No matter ; all the captains in the harbour are expected to dine there.' And they went. This led to the first meeting of my father and mother, the daughter of Captain James, who was then I 2 AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I. nineteen years of age. The Anson sailed next morning for her station on the western part of the Channel, and on December 27th was embayed with a southerly gale in Mount's Bay. Failing to work out against the gale, she anchored off the eastern shore of the bay, and, parting two cables. Captain Lydiard consulted the officers as to the expediency of running her on shore before dark on the Love Sand (a small patch of sand on an iron-bound coast), as it was certain the remaining cables would not hold her through a long winter's night, and if she drove on the rocky shore every soul would perish. This plan was adopted. " She had been a two-decked, sixty-four-gun ship, and cut down to a forty-four-gun frigate, but with a poop. There was the surf of the heavy southerly gale on the short beach, and directly she struck the next sea threw her broadside on. The poop had been crowded with officers and men, as the highest, and probably the safest, place ; but all were swept off the poop, and I have heard my father say he doubted if one there was saved. The masts went at the same time, but providentially the main-mast fell in such a position as to form a bridge from the ship to the shore above the reflux of the surf, and the men had only to watch the wave round both bow and stern, and run along the main-mast before the return of the next one. This formed such a means of escape that six men's wives who were in the ship were saved by it ; one, who had broken her thigh by a fall, was carried on shore by men. Captain Lydiard and my father were lashed to the stanchion of the wheel, and were witnesses to a painful scene. The surgeon of the ship had a son on board, a very young midshipman ; they were lashed to the gun-tackles on the weather side of the ship, near the wheel. The poor boy said to his father, ' What would mamma say if she knew our position now ? ' The next sea dashed him across the ship between two guns, with such force as to kill him. The father, letting go his lashings, tried to cross the deck to his assistance, when the next sea dashed him also against the lee side, killing him as well. When apparently all had left the ship. Captain Lydiard said, ' Sulivan, it is our turn now — you go first.' They watched the sea receding, and then ran. On reaching the main-mast, they saw one of the ship's boys clinging to the gear round the stump. My father, seeing a wave coming, dropped cross-leg on the mast, and clung to the ropes. Turning round, he saw that the wave had swept 1810-29.] ADMIRAL T. B. SULIVAN, C.B. 3 away both the boy and Captain Lydiard. When the wave receded, he ran on and reached the beach. To those on shore it seemed that Captain Lydiard was trying to get the boy to go on at the time the sea struck them. Some idea may be formed of my father's feelings as he stood on the beach, and realised the fact that his kindest friend for many years was gone. I can well recollect as a boy how he felt whenever he spoke on the subject. " The news reached Captain James the next day — In- nocents' Day — which was his birthday ; and, according to his custom, he had a large party dining at the Woodlands. (I have now by me his journal, containing a list of all his guests on those days, and I find among them Israel Pellew, James Saumarez, Sir Peter Parker, Horatio Nelson, George Cockburn, Thomas Freemantle, James Macnamara, Isaac Coffin, and Edward Hamilton.) As soon as Captain James heard the sad news, he went to the wreck, and brought the surviving officers back to his house. Thus the acquaintance between my father and mother was renewed. This ulti- mately led to their engagement, and on March 19th, 180S, they were married at Mylor Church, and went to reside in a cottage at Tregew, new Flushing. " Early in 1809 my father was appointed chief agent of transports, with an expedition from Cork to take reinforce- ments to the Peninsular army. After his return he for a few months commanded the Eclipse on the Plymouth station. In February 181 3 he was appointed to the Woolwich, a forty-four-gun ship of two decks, to take Sir James Yeo and his officers and seamen to man the Lake flotillas in Canada. On his way from Halifax to the West Indies the Woolwich was wrecked in a hurricane on the island of Barbuda, but every soul was saved. The court- martial honourably acquitted the commander and officers, and complimented the commander on there being no loss of life. On March 25th, 18 14, my father was appointed to the Weser troop-ship. The Weser and Trave, French frigates, had been captured on their way from Holland to a French port, and then fitted as troop-ships. Captain Money was appointed to the Trave, and both ships were fitting out to join a squadron proceeding to Bordeaux, to embark a brigade of the Peninsular army for service in America. " My father had three brothers in the service ; one, Samuel Hood Sulivan, was then first lieutenant on the Trave, the sister-ship to the Weser. The Weser and Trave 4 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. I. embarked the 4th Regiment (Colonel Faunce), the head- quarters and one wing being in the Weser. They sailed for Bermuda, where they were joined by some other ships and regiments. Vice-Admiral Sir Alexander Cochrane took command of the fleet, which then proceeded direct for the Chesapeake. The first service there was the destruc- tion of Admiral Barney's flotilla in the Patuxent, before the army could attack Washington. My father commanded the first division of boats on this service. Afterwards, the army having taken Baltimore, he served with a battalion of seamen, as the senior commander under Captain Crofton, at the battle of Bladensburg, where the seamen are reported in the despatch ' to have behaved with a gallantry and steadiness which would have done honour to the ablest troops, and which attracted the admiration of the army.'* " I must mention the singular coincidence, that though my father and his three brothers had never all met before whilst in the service, they did so in the fleet in the Patuxent, the youngest being then twenty-one (Daniel Hunt Sulivan). When the expedition against New Orleans had arrived at the mouth of the Mississippi, the troops had to be taken about eighty miles through the shallow waters of Lake Borgne in boats to a landing-place at its head, separated from New Orleans by a few miles of wooded country. The Rev. G. R. Gleig, the late chaplain-general (author of ' The Subaltern in the Army,' and ' America '), after dwelling on the hardships of the army, in which he served in the 85th Regiment, says, ' On the part of the navy all these hardships were experienced in a fourfold degree.' * I will here add a story of Admiral T. B. Sulivan, illustrating his high sense of duty, which was also ever the guiding principle of the subject of this memoir. As captain he was appointed to the Stag, as wing commodore to the Pacific squadron. The merchants of Chili exported a large quantity of silver in ingots. There being a heavy duty on this, they used to smuggle it off to H.M.'s ships for conveyance to the river Plata, paying a large freight for the same. A former commodore, instead of first attending to the duties of his station, had used his ship to earn freight, leaving his station even when a critical state of affairs demanded his presence there. Commodore Sulivan, on his arrival on the station, issued an order that no man-of-war was to take smuggled silver, deeming it wrong for naval officers to assist the Chilians in breaking the laws of their country. On one occasion, when anchored with a squadron off the coast, a canoe came off to his ship after dusk, and a black man placed on the deck a number of bars of silver. He was followed by the merchant. " What is this for?" said the commodore. " For you to take to the Plata," was the merchant's reply. " Has duty been paid on it?" "No." "Then 1 1810-29.] NEW ORLEANS. 5 For these services my father was promoted to post- captain. Not having heard of his promotion, he was, as the senior commander, attached to a brigade in command of Colonel Thornton, which was composed of the 85th Regiment, the Marines, and a party of seamen under my father. They shared in the desperate attack made on the leading division. The plan was for Colonel Thornton's brigade to cross the river, for the purpose of carrying a battery and turning the guns on the lines of New (Drleans when the main attack was made. Before this two generals had landed to command the army sent out after the news had reached England of General Ross being killed. With these came my father's promotion, and the admiral brought over Commander Money, the next in seniority to my father, saying, ' Sulivan, as you are a post-captain, we must give Money a chance ; he will relieve you in command of the seamen, and you will return and take his duty at the landing-place as beach-master.' This probably saved my father's life or a dangerous wound. After the division had crossed the river and advanced to the attack of the battery, the seamen were leading, all the principal officers being in front, going up a lane. At the head of this lane the enemy had masked field-pieces. Suddenly opening fire, one round of grape-shot killed or wounded the leading files. Colonel Thornton, Captain Money, and the officer in command of the Marines were severely wounded. Captain Money had his ankle smashed ; and though he escaped amputation, he was lamed for life, and never served again. He was a very religious man, which in those days cannot take it." The merchant explained that he had not heard of the new regulation. He said that, difficult as it had been to smuggle if off, it would be far more difficult to get it on shore again without his being caught, so he begged that an exception might be made in his case. At length the commodore said, " Well, take it to the vessel astern of me ; but mind, no more silver is to be brought off that has not had the duty paid on it." During the five years the commodore was on that coast, he never once used his ship for earning freight (whilst much was made by other vessels of his squadron), although to a man with a family of fourteen and no private means some extra earnings would have been acceptable. At the end of his commission, when the merchants heard that he was about to leave the station, they passed the word along the coast towns that for months all the silver possible should be saved up to send by Captain Sulivan's ship on her way to England, in order that he might have one chance of a good freight. Thus did the very merchants against whom his former order had been issued show their appreciation of his conduct. — Ed. 6 AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I. led to his being called a ' psalm-singer ' ; and when he was serving under General Ross, before Bladensburg, the general said publicly he wished all his army were psalm- singers, if Money was a specimen of them.' " My father's two younger brothers, James and Daniel Hunt, were made lieutenants for this service ; but the elder of the three, Samuel Hood, was never promoted, though he had served as midshipman in the Achille at Trafalgar, and went through the whole of the service in the Chesapeake as first lieutenant of the Trave, and commanded a boat under Captain Lockyer on the occasion of the gallant capture of the American gun-boats on Lake Borgne. When, after the long war, the Order of the Bath was extended to three classes, my father, in common with many officers who had been promoted to the rank of post-captains for service as commanders, received the C.B. He returned home soon after the peace with the United States in March 1815. " One of my earliest recollections, when I was nearly five years old, is of my father taking me one day to Falmouth. On our return, while waiting on Falmouth Quay for the ferry-boat between Flushing and Falmouth, a voice shouted from a window of the Green Bank Hotel, ' Pick up the child in the water ! ' The tide was running out, and the next moment we saw a very small child float round the end of the quay. My father took off his coat, placed it at my feet, jumped in the water to the rescue, and in a few minutes he was slowly swimming to the steps with the child under his left arm. I mention this from its con- nection with an extraordinary coincidence which occurred nearly fifty years afterwards. My mother was then living at Flushing, and my brother, [then] Commander George Lydiard Sulivan, who had recently been promoted from the royal yacht, was at the top of her steep garden, which rose behind the house. It was a still starlight evening in the month of June 1863. He heard the rattle of oars in a boat, then a splash, and a cry for help, followed by a dead silence, which showed that no assistance was at hand. He ran to the quay at Flushing (about two hundred and fifty yards away), and the tide being very high he was able to step from the quay to a boat. Telling the waterman there was a man overboard at the quay on the other side, they each took an oar, and pulled rapidly across the harbour. When they reached the quay, they found 1810-29.J SCHOOL DAYS. 7 two men discussing the exact spot where the man sank. My brother pulled off his coat and waistcoat, and dived, searching the bottom all round where they thought the man had gone down, but without success. He then got on the steps, and asked one of the men to pull his shirt off, as it was impeding his progress ; as he did so the man said, ' Your father saved my life off this very spot nearly fifty years ago.' On diving the second time he recovered the body, but life was extinct. The man was a navvy, returning from work at the Falmouth Docks. " My father told my sons, when boys, that I could do a rule of three sum when I was six years of age as well as he could. I attended during the day a school kept by the curate of our parish. My father was never satisfied with the arithmetic taught at school, and I had in addition to do my sums at home of an evening. My mother was fond of poetry, and made us learn many short pieces by heart out of a book called ' The Speaker.' I am sure that this exercised the memory and improved it ; and with the aid of repeating them in night watches as a midshipman, to pass away the time, I have never forgotten them. After two years and a half there I was sent to Mr. Eyre's school at Penryn ; that required a walk of two miles each way, and, as the classical classes were only in the forenoon, I returned home as soon as they were over. But I have forgotten another part of my education for the navy. My father kept two boats, one a rather large sailing-boat, and the other a small thirteen-foot boat for rowing, with a small sail. I was often with him in both boats. I remained more than two years at the Penryn school, during which time I went through Ovid and Caesar, and began Virgil ; but we were hurried through them in classes so fast that I only learnt some of the amusing stories in Ovid and some of the battles in Csesar, accounts of crossing rivers, etc. We also had to go through the Eton Latin grammar periodically till I knew it by heart ; and for many years afterwards, if any one had started me on a line, I could have gone on for pages. Mr. Eyre attached great import- ance to a clear pronunciation, and before the midsummer holidays we had a speech day in public. The first year I chose Pyramus and Thisbe for my Latin speech, and to my astonishment was awarded the Latin medal by several clergymen, presided over by Canon Howell, rector of the parish. He walked a short distance with my father and 8 AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I. mother, and expressed a hope that I should be sent to a public school, with a view to going to Oxford ; but my career had been settled long before, and I was to go to the Royal Naval College at Portsmouth, where many naval officers' sons received a free education, I believe to the extent of half the number, the remaining half of seventy boys paying £10 a year. There was also a chance of winning a medal at the college, which gave a prospect of promotion on passing for lieutenant. This was more important then, when mates (now sub-lieutenants) without interest were sometimes ten, eleven, and twelve years after passing before they were promoted, while they saw every one with interest, or, as the saying was then in midship- men's berths, ' with handles to their names,' promoted as soon as they had passed their examinations. A son of Captain Pellew had won the second medal at this college, and this was always held up to me as an example. My father had a large family ; therefore it was a great object to him and to all poor naval officers to get so good an education for the navy free of cost. "On our removing to Feock parish, my father continued my education at home until I went to the Naval College, the age for entering which was from twelve and a half years to thirteen and a half I went to it when I was twelve years and three months old. During our residence at Tregew, my uncle. Lieutenant Daniel H. Sulivan, had lived with us nearly one year ; afterwards the three uncles, all lieutenants R.N., and two Lieutenants Loney, R.N., owned a large Cawsand Bay boat, called the Sweet Poll, of Plymouth, in which they attended all the regattas on the south coast. She carried off the first prize of her class for three years in succession, after which the com- mittees would not allow her to compete. I used to look forward to their coming to Falmouth with much interest. My father also encouraged me in the use of carpenters' tools, of which he had a large box. I have mentioned these facts because they bear on a question now discussed, ' technical education,' and because I have all my life felt the value of this early training in the use of tools. " I now come to my leaving home for the Royal Naval College. There were no steam-vessels on the south coast in those days, and the only way to go from port to port by sea was in smacks, one line from Falmouth to Plymouth, and another from Plymouth to Portsmouth. My father l8lo-29.] THE ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE. 9 took me there, and we stopped for a few days on the way at Plymouth. Sir Alexander Cochrane — under whom my father served in America — was then the commander-in-chief at Plymouth Dockyard. One day he asked me what I looked -forward to. I replied, ' To living in this house one day, sir, as commander-in-chief.' He said a few words in praise of my ambition. We went on in a smack to Portsmouth, arriving there three or four days before the time for the examination. Lieutenant John Wood Rouse (my godfather) was the senior of two lieutenants of the college. He had lost his leg as a midshipman in one of the ships of Sir John Duckworth's squadron in the passage of the Dardanelles, and was, after being made a lieutenant, appointed staff-officer to my grandfather, then com- mander of the Cornish district of ' sea fencibles.' We stayed at Mr. Rouse's house during the few days we were at Portsmouth, until I passed in. My father was very anxious about my passing, and expressed doubt on the subject to the lieutenant-governor, Captain John Went- worth Goring, C.B.,; but the questions were all in arithmetic, excepting the definitions of Euclid, which I had learned by heart the previous week. Thanks to my father having taught me arithmetic so well, I passed first of twelve. " The head of the studies was the Reverend Professor James Inman, D.D., author of the work on navigation, under whom were three assistant-masters for mathematics : first, Peter Mason, M.A. ; second, Charles Blackburn, M.A. ; and third, Mr. Livesay. The preceptor, the Rev. W. Tate, M.A., took the classical classes, history, geography, and English. French was taught by M. Creuze, a French imigrd. We were also taught fencing and dancing. The forenoons were given to mathematics, the afternoons to French and drawing, the latter taught by a very superior master, Mr. J. C. Schetky. There were also classes for naval architecture, which were taken by Mr. Fincham, the master-builder of the dockyard. We began geometry with Mr. Livesay ; but no boy could get on unless he studied in his own cabin and at the dining-room tables in the evenings. This some of the senior boys tried to prevent by watching the steps of the junior class, and if the junior boys showed any intention of studying they were sure to have their books knocked out of their hands and scattered about the yard. Fortunately the one who passed in second to me — Baugh — was one of the strongest and biggest boys lO AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I. in the college ; he was also one of the studious ones, and often protected me from this bullying. Once the books were in the boys' cabins they were safe, as we were forbidden to enter one another's cabins. I was content so long as I kept with the senior boys of my own batch ; and it was a fortunate thing for me that three months after I entered Dr. Inman's son, Richard Inman, joined us. He had learnt the first three months' work or more before he entered, and I had nearly completed in three months what we were allowed six months for. Inman passed in the studies that made him equal with me within a week of entering, and then we went on competing each month. Nothing could be fairer than Dr. Inman was to me throughout this rivalry. He urged me to take my books home at Christmas and midsummer, and work every day, adding, ' I shall keep Richard at work.' He awarded me the junior mathematical prize on December i6th— a splendidly bound book on naval gunnery. The time allowed for going through the whole mathematical studies was two years : ' time ' was allowed only for the studies completed. " On my way back to college after the holidays, the coach broke down, and I was exposed for some hours of a night of intense cold, the inside passengers not allowing me to squeeze in among them for shelter. In consequence, a week after my return to college, I was taken ill with inflammation of the lungs, and was in the infirmary five weeks. Inman got ahead of me during my illness, but I caught him up again before the midsummer holidays, and it then became a neck-and-neck race. I was awarded another mathematical prize on June 22nd, and to my great astonishment a prize in French. The collegians were often taken round the dockyard, and shown the ships build- ing and in dock, and if the boys liked they could attend the rigging-loft to learn to strop-blocks and do many other useful things. There were also large barges to cruise about in, to visit ships, and to take us to Haslar Creek on Saturday afternoons for cricket. Our ground was between the Haslar Hospital ward and the sea. From the time I entered the college I received the greatest kindness from Sir George and Lady Grey. He had been flag-captain to Sir John Jervis in the Boyne, when my grandfather was first lieutenant of her, and afterwards in the Victory. I spent every Sunday afternoon there with two other collegians named Ramage and Coppinger. 1810-29.] FIRST COMMISSION. I I " The idea was held in the college that the one who got through the course in the shortest time obtained the iirst medal, and the next the second medal. On these grounds Edmonstone — now Admiral Sir William Edmonstone — had won the first medal the previous year, and Allen, who as captain commanded the Niger expedition, the second medal. I heard when we returned to Portsmouth after my first voyage that Dr. Inman had applied to the Admiralty to grant two first medals, one for Inman and one for me ; but their lordships refused, on the ground that it would be creating a precedent, and that he must decide which should have the first medal and which the second, but that it should make no difference when we passed our examinations. The first medal ensured promo- tion after passing, and the second medal gave a strong claim to it. Dr. Inman nominated his son for the first medal and me for the second, which was perfectly fair, as I have explained before. I had always out of school hours taken to the rigging-loft, and in the latter months of my time was one of six selected to rig a block-model of a frigate, for which a shed was erected in the yard in the rear of the Naval Architectural College. It remained for many years as a specimen of rigging. One boy had the bowsprit with the gear of the jib-booms, two had the fore-mast, two the main-mast (one on each side), and the mizzen-mast was allotted to me. " Inman passed out of the college a few days before I did, as his father was very anxious to get him into the Cambrian with Captain Hamilton. When I passed out of the college I was appointed to H.M.S. Thetis, Captain Sir John Phillimore, C.B., Kt., who, going round the college a short time before, had told Dr. Inman, and I believe Captain John W. Loring, C.B. (the lieutenant-governor),, that if they sent him any collegians he would refuse to take them. When I went on board I found the captain was on leave. The first lieutenant, Drew (who had been promoted for the first Ashantee war), and the second, Cotesworth, were on board. The latter was the son of Captain Cotesworth, of Falmouth, a friend of my grand- father, and well known to my father and mother. He told me the captain had a strong prejudice against collegians, but that he would do all he could to keep me in the ship. When the captain returned from leave he sent for me to his cabin in the hulk, and told me that he had never 1 2 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. I. Icnown a collegian worth his salt, and he used strong language against the college and all connected with it. I forgot he was the captain, and spoke hastily in reply ; he ordered me out of the cabin, and followed me quickly to the door. In a short time he sent for me again, and told me that the ship was going out for about two months with an experimental squadron, and that he would try me. He went on shore, and told Captain Loring that he liked the way I stuck up for the college and the spirited way in which 1 spoke to him, and that he should try me. When the senior midshipmen passed at the Royal Naval •College for lieutenants, the senior class of collegians had to work the same paper in the same room. The last time I did so Dr. Inman said to me, ' There was a collegian passing yesterday who won the first medal — his name is FitzRoy ; and he did what has never been done before : in passing for a lieutenant he got full numbers, and I hope when you pass for lieutenant you will do the same.'* He, FitzRoy, was promoted to lieutenant immediately, and two or three weeks after I joined the Thetis he was appointed to her as junior lieutenant, — to that I attribute much of my future success in the service. " Sir John Phillimore, when he commissioned the Thetis early in 1823, feeling that the large allowance of rum was the cause of much drunkenness in the service, proposed to the Admiralty that it should be reduced one-half, from half a pint of rum to a quarter of a pint. Their lordships replied that 'if the Thetis' s ship's company would try it first they would allow it.' The consent was given and the reduction ordered. When I joined the ship it had been tried for more than a year, during which time the Thetis' s ship's company had to undergo the most bitter persecution from other ships' companies. Whether she was at Plymouth or Portsmouth the liberty-men of the other ships combined to attack the ' tea-chests,' as they called them. This con- tinued after I joined, and men were sent from the Thetis to Haslar Hospital with serious injuries from the fighting which ensued. Shortly after the Ganges returned from her first commission in the Mediterranean. She had a full crew as an eighty-four-gun ship, whereas the guard- ships at Plymouth and Portsmouth had only frigates' ships' companies. The crew of the Ganges gave notice to the other ships that if they continued to treat the Thetis's crew * This he actually did. — Ed. 1810-29.J H.M.S. "THETIS." 1 3. in the way they did they would land in a body and take the part of the Thetis's men, because the latter were instrumental in bringing about the most beneficial change that had ever been made for the seamen of the royal navy. They had more than a year's experience of the advantages given in exchange for the quarter of a pint of rum. Before the change there were two days a week when no meat was served out, called ' banyan days.'' These were done away with. Then for breakfast they had only ' burgoo,' or, in other words, thick water-gruel, and for their evening meal butter and cheese with their biscuits,, which were said to be often rancid and mouldy. Instead of these they now had cocoa in the morning and a good allowance of tea in the evening, with ample allowance of sugar. In addition to these they had two shillings a month more pay. Before the change they could not draw any of their pay abroad, and had no money to spend on leave, unless they sold their clothes for the purpose, which led to punishment ; but one of the advantages accruing from the change was that they were allowed to draw four shillings- a month of their pay abroad. Later, when on detached service from the Beagle, and in boats for many weeks^ while sitting round the fire at night, smoking and drinking quantities of tea, one of the oldest seamen in the ship, a petty officer, whom I always selected for my coxswain in those boat expeditions, used to tell the men that he looked back with shame and sorrow to the days when he helped others to attack the Thetis's ship's company because they consented to try reducing the allowance of rum one- half, and he used to explain to the other men the great advantages of the change. " When Lieutenant Drew was promoted, the captain applied for Lieutenant William Cotesworth as first lieu- tenant, but was refused, because he had not been ten years- a lieutenant. He was of eight years' standing, and had been promoted for gallant boat service when in the Endymion on the coast of North America. Lieutenant Henry Jellicoe, three years his senior, was appointed as first lieutenant. While still alongside the hulk we experienced that terrible storm of November 28th, 1824, one of the heaviest that has ever been known in England. . . . " In the same storm nearly all the vessels in Plymouth Sound were wrecked, and a gap was broken through- Plymouth Breakwater, which was not then finished. One I 4 AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I. large schooner was off the Eddystone in the storm ; before daylight she capsized and turned bottom up. The watch on deck were drowned, but the watch below managed to climb into the hold (she was in ballast), and there was air enough in to keep them alive. After some hours they felt the shock of the masts being carried away by their striking the ground, and after that she was thrown bottom up on the top of the breakwater : they cut a hole with their knives in the bottom large enough to wave a shirt from for a signal ; it was seen from the breakwater vessel, and she sent a boat and saved them. I suppose there never was such an instance of men being saved when in such extreme danger. " But we must return to the Thetis alongside the hulk in Portsmouth Harbour. The lieutenants were Henry Jellicoe, William Cotesworth, J. Jervis Tucker, and Robert FitzRoy. " I have often been asked if it is true that a captain in the royal navy once made a bishop of his chaplain, and I have replied : ' Not only is it true, but the ship I first served in as a midshipman was the ship in which it took place, though I joined her afterwards. Her last voyage had been to take an African regiment to the first Ashantee war, and she landed some officers and men to share in the defence of Cape Coast Castle and the detached forts. On her way home she touched at St. Michaels, one of the Azores. In Roman Catholic countries in which there were no Protestant cemeteries their dead had to be buried in gardens. The Protestants of St. Michaels had purchased a piece of ground about half a mile outside the town, and had enclosed it by a wall. When the Thetis arrived, a deputation called on Sir John Phillimore and asked him to take two petitions home for them, — one to the Archbishop of Canterbury, requesting him to send a bishop to consecrate their ground ; and another to the First Lord of the Admiralty, asking him to provide a ship to take out the bishop. Sir J. Phillimore assured them that it was quite unnecessary, because his chaplain should consecrate it for them. They replied that it ntust be a bishop. He then said he would give his chaplain an acting order as bishop. I have seen that " acting order." It ran as follows : " You are hereby requested and directed to take on your- self the office of Bishop of St. Michaels, for the purpose of consecrating a Protestant cemetery, and for so doing this 1810-29.1 TRAINING. 15 shall be your warrant. Given under my hand this day of — — 1 824.^ (Signed) John Phillimore, Capt. N. Royse, Chap- lain H.M.S. Thetis!' The cemetery was thereupon conse- crated with full naval honours * — the Protestants used it, and the feuds between them and the Roman Catholics ceased.' " Sir John Pillimore had been very kind to me, notwith- standing his prejudice against collegians, and as I had only a quadrant he lent me an excellent sextant. On our return to Portsmouth, he asked Captain Loring to recommend him two more collegians, and he advised him to take my friend Baugh and G. Wodehouse, who were passing out at the time. Before the days of steam-vessels, there was a frigate kept on the Plymouth station to take an ambassador where required, or, in case of an emer- gency, for other duty. Her first service was taking an ambassador to Mexico ; her second, taking a regiment to the first Ashantee war ; and when not required other- wise she was supposed to cruise on the Cornish coast to look out for smugglers. We sailed from Plymouth again on the 24th, and the same evening anchored in Falmouth Roads. It was a great pleasure to me being so often in Falmouth, as I spent all my time at home. On March 2nd we sailed again, and the next day anchored in Plymouth Sound. " I have omitted to state that the boys were all in the mizzen-top, with three small but very smart seamen as captains of the top. We had three watches instead of, as usual, two ; so that the officers had the same men with them on the watches. I was mizzen-top midshipman all the time ; and, what was never seen in other ships, the Thetis had mizzen-topgallant studding-sails, to train the boys for topmen. Lieutenant Charles Nash was appointed to the ship as fourth lieutenant ; he had been promoted out of the royal yacht, and was a very smart officer. I suppose few ships had all four lieutenants as good as Cotesworth, Tucker, FitzRoy, and Nash. Cotesworth was an excellent first lieutenant, whom the men delighted to work for, and they proved themselves a smart crew by beating every ship they conripeted with. Another good officer was Lieutenant J. Jervis Tucker.f Lieutenant FitzRoy was one of the best officers in the service, as his subsequent career proved. He was one of the best practical seamen in the service, and * The ship's band, sailors, and marines attending, and the " bishop " being saluted with nineteen guns on his landing. t Tucker and Sulivan afterwards married two sisters. 1 6 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. I- possessed besides a fondness for every kind of observation useful in navigating a ship. He was very kind to me, offered me the use of his cabin and of his books. He advised me what to read, and encouraged me to turn to advantage what 1 had learned at college by taking every kind of observation that was useful in navigation. "After another short cruise in the Channel we were ordered to Lisbon. The Thetis then had several short cruises. One of her consorts was the Aurora, forty-six guns (which had been captured from the French after a severe action with the Europas, forty-six), commanded by Captain John Maxwell. She had rather the advantage in sailing, but we beat her hollow in reefing. The poet of the Aurora had a specimen of his poetry published in a Plymouth newspaper. As I recollect every word of it, though I never had a copy, I will give it here : — " ' The change in our diet doth grieve our hearts sore ; 'Twas first introduced by Sir John Phillimore : It's a new regulation you plainly may see, For they stopped half our grog to give us BohSa. " ' As we crossed the briny ocean the eighth day of June We fell in with the Thetis at four in the afternoon ; To beat us in sailing she did do her best, But soon the Aurora she beat the " Tea-chest" "'And soon, my brave boys, if united we keep, To beat us in reefing she won't be the ship ; To each other we're strangers, as you understand ; So Aurora for ever, and the " Tea-chesl" be hanged!' " The following answer was published in the same paper : — "'You backbiting rascals who run down our ship. And whose backs are well used to the boatswain's mate's whip, You had better be easy, or mind what you say. Or we'll give you coffee in lieu of Bohea. " ' With regard to our duty, we do it with ease ; Every ship in the fleet we can beat if we please ; We are happy, contented, good-humoured, and free, And we don't see the harm in a good cup of tea. '"So keep your tongues quiet, or take what may follow. For in reefing and furling we can beat you all hollow ; You had better be easy, those rows don't begin. For on board of the Thetis you'll find we're all men.' " After a cruise in the Mediterranean we sailed from 1810-29.] ENCOUNTER WITH SPANIARDS. 1 7 Naples on November 24th, homeward bound. After taking refuge from a gale in the bay of Alchuda, in Corsica, and experiencing a very heavy gale from south-west to the eastward of Gibraltar, we anchored off the Mole-head on December i6th. We found that more than a hundred and forty vessels had been driven ashore in the late gale. The largest number of them were coasters and feluccas that had gone on the neutral ground, where they were smashed up. But the larger vessels, which had driven from their anchors farther out in the bay, had all gone on Spanish territory to the westward of the Spanish lines, and the Spanish authorities had taken possession of these to make them pay the duties on their cargoes, and they had landed a portion of the ships' cargoes on the sand-hills for security. Directly Sir J. Phillimore heard this he called on the Governor of Gibraltar, Sir George Don, and asked him whether he was going to interfere. He said he was not, as a military interference would probably have led to war with Spain. Sir J. Phillimore then decided to use all naval means to get the vessels off the beach of the Spanish territory. Before returning to the ship he had arranged with the dockyard authorities for all the assistance in the shape of anchors and cables, and lighters with capstans in them, and the next day we sent all the boats under Lieutenant Cotesworth to commence work. " The first thing we had to do was to get the ' Guarda Costas ' out of the vessels. They were in uniform and armed with carbines, and there were three or four in each vessel, of which only one was English, a schooner, the Lovely Cruiser, of Portsmouth. The easternmost vessel, the Mary, of Boston, Captain Stikney, was abreast of the guard-house at the end of the Spanish lines. A junior officer was stationed in each vessel. The officers of the garrison were anxious to see what went on, and about fifty of them, following the lead of Lieutenant W. L. M. Tupper, of the 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers, all mounted, and armed with swords and pistols in holsters, drew up two deep in front of the Spanish guard-house. These formed our cavalry! The crew of the brig Mary had a musket for every man, and they were full of fight ; they also had two small signal-guns on board, which were pointed through two bow ports into two windows of the guard-house, and were well loaded with canister-shot. These were our artillery! When the crisis arrived, an 2 I 8 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. I- officer rode up to the sergeant's guard of the neutral ground and brought them up, forming them on the left of the mounted officers on the beach, close to a Portuguese schooner. These were our infantry ! The next thing we did was to bring on board that portion of the cargoes which had been placed on the sand-hills. The vessels were more than their own lengths from the water, and were all many feet in the sand. We had to dig channels to them, the men working up to their necks in water, every form of scraper that our means allowed us to make being used to help. There was a grass-flat in the rear of the sand-hills, and early in the afternoon we saw advancing across it a brigade of Spanish troops, composed of two very small battalions, headed by mounted officers. They advanced until they were a quarter of a mile from the Spanish guard-house and about half that distance from the sand- hills, where they were halted : the officer in command, with his staff, rode forward to the guard-house. I was in the best position to see what took place, for the bows of the Mary were within about seventy yards of the guard- house. When the leader, attended by his staff, passed between the beach and the guard-house, they found them- selves immediately in front of Tupper with his two lines of mounted officers. The colonel — as we called him — rode up to Tupper, and, halting less than a horse's length in front of him, began gesticulating violently, speaking loudly in Spanish, every word of which Tupper understood : he said afterwards he was using threats. Then I saw Tupper take a pistol from his holster and point it at the colonel, who pulled his horse round, and, followed by his staff, rode back to his troops. Tupper shouted to us to land, and, as previously arranged, line the sand-hills. Then were seen our men from all the vessels jumping down on the beach, and running up to the sand-hills, by which we got on the flank of the enemy. But, directly the officers returned to them, they went to the right-about, going back the way they came. About 9 p.m., when quite dark, I was hailed by the coxswain in the officers' galley, asking me where the first lieutenant was to be found, as he had a note for him from the governor. I directed him to the vessel. The note was to tell him that they had heard from Alg6ciras that an attempt would be made in the night with a larger force to drive us off, and that gun- boats would probably be used ; also that he should send 1810-29.] GIBRALTAR. 1 9 the 42nd Highlanders to bivouac on the neutral ground in case we wanted assistance. The coxswain, after finding Lieutenant Cotesworth, volunteered to pull up along shore, where the road ran close to the beach, and bring us notice of their approach. About half-past eleven he returned and reported that a large body of troops was marching along the road, and shortly after we saw them approaching in the rear of the sand-hills. It was a clear night, and they were halted about where the former columns halted, a few officers advancing to the Spanish guard-house. But a different sight met their view, for where the small party of mounted officers stood in the morning a strong regiment was drawn up in line. As soon as the officers rejoined the column it retired. This occurred on December 17th. On the 1 8th we hove off the Maltese brig Providentia; on the 22nd the English schooner Lovely Cruiser, and that night the U.S. brig Mary, of Boston. On the 28th a deputation of merchants and others of all nations came on board to read a letter of thanks for what we were doing, and some consignees brought bags of money, which they wished to distribute among the men, but which the captain refused. On December 29th the boats returned, having got off the three remaining vessels, the Portuguese schooner Felix de Mar, the Danish brig Grandilo, and the Genoese vessel La Pace. On January 21st the boats returned with all the gear borrowed from the dockyard. " On February 2nd we sailed from Gibraltar to try to beat the frigate out of the Straits against the strong current, which was said to have been done before. We succeeded in doing it as far as Tarifa Lighthouse ; but when standing across to the Morocco coast a heavy squall struck the ship, carried away the fore-tack, obliging us to haul the courses up and lower the topsails, and in a very short time we were at anchor off Gibraltar again. On the 3rd the merchants and consignees gave us a very grand dinner at the Crown Hotel. Our captain took two or three midshipmen with him, but made us promise that we would leave the tabic when he and the governor left it, which we did. But when we got to the Ragged Staff landing-place we found it was blowing a heavy gale. There were no boats to take us on board, so the captain took us back to the hotel for the night. The officers senior to us who attended the dinner were obliged also to sleep on shore. In front of the president at the dinner was a model of Gibraltar, made 20 AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I. of cake, which Lieutenant C. Nash carried off for the youngsters on board who had not shared in the dinner. The gale was so heavy in the night that two or three more vessels went on shore farther to the westward than the former ones. We got under way and anchored off them to cover the boats, which we sent armed and manned as before. They had gone on a rocky point, and we only saved one, the U.S. schooner /a7nes Monroe. On the 14th we sailed again; but after going about under Ape's Hill, and standing towards the Spanish coast, the next time we went about, just as the after-yards swung round, we ran on the Pearl Rock ; and as the head-sails twi.sted her round a large piece of the false keel floated, and the next moment we were off and ran back to Gibraltar. During the digging out of the vessels on the beach we sent several men back to the ship with various forms of pul- monary complaints, and one of the best first-class petty officers died of inflammation of the lungs. On the i6th we finally sailed from Gibraltar. I was ill on the passage with my old chest complaint. On the 30th we anchored at Spit- head, and the captain went on shore, but two custom-house officers came on board and put the ship in quarantine, and under their directions we got under way again to anchor at the ' Mother Bank,' the quarantine-ground. When my kind friends Sir George and Lady Grey heard that I was ill on board. Sir George sent his barge to take me to their house, where I remained till the Thetis sailed for Plymouth. This was on March 8th. We reached it on the 9th, and the same day made sail into the harbour, and came alongside the Diadem hulk. " I have omitted to state that another collegian, making the fourth, joined us from the Seringapatam. He had been at the Naval College with the other three, but his mother asked our captain to take him in the Thetis. His name was Robert N. Hamond, and he had greatly distinguished himself in an attack on two Greek pirates by the boats of the Cambrian and Seringapatam. " We remained at Hamoaze until March i6th, preparing to take Lord Ponsonby(appointed ambassador to the Argentine confederation at Buenos Ayres) to Rio Janeiro, with Lady Ponsonby. A steam-vessel then towed us into the Sound, where we lay until March 29th, when we sailed, having, in addition to two side-cabins in the captain's fore-cabin, several others on the main-deck for the attache, Mr. Scott, and the 1810-29.J WITH THE " THETIS " AT RIO. 2 t servants. It was decided after our arrival at Rio Janeiro that Lord Ponsonby should go to Buenos Ayres in the Doris, Captain Sir John Sinclair, Bart, which was going round Cape Horn to the west coast, then under one command, and that the Thetis should return to England. This necessitated the removal of the cabins to the Doris, and fitting them there. But before this the mates and midshipmen were allowed to take one boat, a ten-oared cutter, for a trip up the harbour of Rio Janeiro, to see its beautiful islands. We only took six oars with us, intending to sail, as a fine sea-breeze blew every afternoon. We were at an island about twenty miles from the ship, and were all in the water bathing, when George Wodehouse saw a flock of humming-birds round the flowers of an orange-tree. He loaded a single-barrel gun with dust-shot to shoot them, and, putting on his shirt, ran towards the orange-tree. We in the water heard a shot, and directly after saw Wodehouse running towards us, his shirt covered with blood. He had come to a rock too steep to allow of his jumping down on the sandy beach with the gun in his hand ; so he took it by the muzzle in his right hand, and in putting it down he must have touched the cock against the rock. It went off, tearing everything away from the palm of his hand to the elbow, inside the arm, which was streaming with blood. Not one of our party understood that a tourniquet placed above the elbow was the right thing to stop the bleeding. The excuse for us was that none of us had been taught it. Afterwards^ when officers and men were going on service where some might be wounded, a certain number of their party were provided with tourniquets, and shown how to apply them. (I am glad to see that the cadets in the training-ship are to go through the work of the ambulance classes.) We tore our shirts into bandages, and bound up the fore-arm as well as we could. We were twenty miles from the ship, in the hottest harbour in the world, and we had only five oars to row a ten-oared boat. We took one oar to throw the mizzen over, so as to protect Wodehouse from the sun, and we had only pulled ten miles, to an island owned by an Englishman named Lane, whom we were going to ask for the loan of his boat, with a crew of black men, to take Wodehouse to the ship, when we saw Sir John Phillimore's gig coming round the point of the island. On discovering what had happened, he took the wounded man into the gig. He had, providentially, intended to bring us a week's 2 2 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. L provisions, and remain with us another week. He had suffered from a dangerous wound himself in the action between the Eurotas and Clorinde, a grape-shot having shattered his left shoulder-joint, and caused him to faint three times on deck before he consented to go below. After seven months in Plymouth Hospital he left it with a stiff joint, and never afterwards recovered the use of it. " When the cabins were sent to the Doris, Sir John Phillimore retained Lady Ponsonby's cabin for our wounded messmate. The captain slept in a cot outside the cabin door, and the midshipmen took it in turns to tiurse Wodehouse, but ^\'e were not allowed to touch the injured arm — the captain said that that should only be done by one who knew the value of careful handling ; and when our wounded messmate was suffering in the night we had to call the captain. I have known him sit an hour by his bedside, holding the arm in his two hands, trying to ease the pain. " We sailed homeward bound on August 14th ; and as was then the custom with sailing-ships, the boats of the squadron towed us out before the light land-breeze. Wodehouse got so much better after we sailed that he was soon able to join the other collegians in working with the rope-maker, which we four had always to do when the other midshipmen were at school ; but instead of joining us in spinning spun yarn and nettle-stuff for the ship's use, and taking it in turns to turn the winch, as he had but one sound arm we kept him at the winch. This did not interfere with our regular use of the table in the captain's fore-cabin for our working observations. We, the collegians, had to take sights in the morning for the longitude, and at noon for the latitude, with occasional lunars, which we worked in the fore-cabin. " I have omitted to mention that when a separate class was established for the ' master ' line, Alexander Burns Usborne joined us at Plymouth as 'master's assistant' He was the son of an old naval officer, and was educated at Greenwich School under Riddell. When he left that he bound himself as an apprentice to the Enderbys, and was for three years in one of their whalers in the South Seas. On his return he joined the Thetis as 'master's assistant.' Greenwich School gave him one of the best mathematical educations, and his service in the whaler made him a thorough seaman. There being no school- 1810-29.] A GALE IN THE CHANNEL. 23 master on board, he acted as one to the youngsters who were not collegians, for which he was well qualified. " Sir John Phillimore gave all the midshipmen a thorough practical training aloft. Every afternoon when the weather permitted it, the officer of the watch had to assemble the midshipmen an hour before the evening meal ; and when we had taken in the lighter sails — flying royal and mizzen- topgallant studding-sail — if they were set, we had to take the first reef in the topsail, and come down and hoist it ; then the second reef, and come down and hoist it ; then the third reef, doing the same ; and then shake out the reefs singly. So we had to come on deck six times and hoist the topsails, and, if required, set the light sails above ; and if the officer of the watch was satisfied with the way we had done it he sent us down to our tea. If the first or second reef was in, we were saved so many trips to the deck. " Leaving Rio, we had a fair passage until September 29th, when we were about four hundred miles from the Scilly Islands ; then we had a furious storm from the S.S.W., drawing to the westward. When the sea was at its height and we were running with the wind on the quarter, the lee-quarter boat nearly touched the water every roll. Two men were sent into her to get ready for hoisting the davits higher ; a very heavy lurch unhooked the foremost tackle. I saw the men try to clutch the span between the two davits ; one did so, but the second missed it by a few inches. The boat dropped forward, and hung a few moments by the after-tackle ; the man fell, and we saw him going astern. It was too heavy a sea for a boat to live in, or even to let go the life-buoy ; so the man was drowned, and the boat was so smashed by the sea that orders were given to cut the after-fall, and she was lost. We then set storm stay-sails and try-sails, and brought her to the wind ; a sea struck her on the starboard side, and stove in two main-deck ports, and the water flooded the main- deck, pouring down every hatchway on the lower deck. Such was the storm that Lieutenant Cotesworth, who had a powerful voice, could not make himself heard in the main-top, so he sent me up with the message. As soon as I was in the top I was struck with the fact that when the ship was upright in the hollow of the sea the height of the sea hid the horizon. My eye was then sixty-four feet above the hollow. Directly I was sure of it I came 24 AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I. down and told Lieutenant FitzRoy, who went into the main-top. His eye was sixty-five feet above the hollow. He states the fact in his account of the Beagle's voyage, and expresses his belief that it was the highest sea ever measured. We passed during the height of the storm H.M. packet Goldfinch, one of the old ten-gun brigs (or coffins, as they were called, because so many were lost). H.M. sloop Beagle was one of them ; and on her first voyage, which lasted five years, she went through the most stormy region of the world with perfect safety. Like all small vessels, they required careful handhng and management of sails. " On October 3rd we anchored off Spithead once more, having run through the Needles passage. I have omitted to mention the number of times we worked in or out of the same passage, under the skilful pilotage of the master, Mr. William Gowdy. On the 28th Commissioner Shields came on board and paid off the ship's company. The next day the pennant was hoisted again for another commission, and Lieutenant Robert FitzRoy was re- appointed to her. Sir John Phillimore had very kindly written to Sir Edward Codrington, K.C.B., who had hoisted his flag in H.M.S. Asia, eighty-four guns, for the Mediter- ranean command, asking him to take all four collegians with him. Had it not been for Lieutenant FitzRoy's re- appointment to the ship, we should all have accepted the offer, and should have been in the battle of Navarino. Baugh and Wodehouse accepted the offer, but Hamond and I preferred to remain in the Thetis with Lieu- tenant FitzRoy. On December 5th Captain Arthur Batt Bingham's commission was read to the officers and ship's company, on his taking command of the ship. Afterwards he made a speech to the men to the following effect : ' You shall have every indulgence the service can allow ; but there are three things I never forgive — drunkenness, disobedience, insolence. Pipe down." He kept his word ; he never forgave drunkenness on duty, and especially in a boat on duty- — the worst offence a seaman can be guilty of, for it may lead to the drowning of many men. He kept his word also that they should have every indulgence the service allowed : extra time for meals, leave when other ships did not give it. "We were fitting out in Hamoaze until February 3rd, 1827, when we anchored in the Sound. We were under i8io-2g.] ADVENTURE WITH lI.E.I.C.S. " FAIRLEY." 25 orders to proceed to the South American station, but to go first to Bermuda to take Colonel Cockburn and suite. They embarked on the 7th, and we sailed the next day. We anchored off Funchal on the 1 7th, but so far off that the anchor was let go in forty-five fathoms, and when we had eighty fathoms of chain out we drifted off the bank, and to add to the weight we had an anchor of forty-six hundredweight at the end of it. We were obliged to use tackles in aid of the capstan, to get the cable in link by link. " I ought to have stated that our captain was generally known in the service as ' Little Belt ' Bingham, from having commanded that vessel of twenty guns when she fought an action with the President, an American frigate of forty-four guns, before the war of 18 12. " When we were fitting out, an order came for fitting out all the guard-ships, for the purpose of embarking ten thousand troops, including the Guards. It was well known at the time as the celebrated ' Canning expedition,' when Canning was Prime Minister. The guard-ships at all the ports were ready for embarking the troops in a week, and they made a quick passage of another week to Lisbon. In these days of steamers could it be done better ? When we left England there were rumours of war with France, in consequence of the Canning expedition being directed against the French occupation of Spain. On the evening of April 19th we fell in with a large ship with two lines of ports, which we took to be a line-of-battle ship. Our courses were converging, and at length we were alongside each other. She would not answer our hail, 'What ship is that ? ' She only replied, ' What ship is thafi ' And so we each went on alternately repeating the question. At length our captain said, ' What ship is that ? If you don't answer I will fire into you.' (We could see her double line of ports lighted up with the men at her guns.) Then our captain said, 'Are you ready with the guns on the main-deck, Mr. FitzRoy ? ' Fortunately she was so close to us that this aside was overheard, which showed them we were English, and they immediately answered, ' The Honourable East India Company's ship Fairley, from China to London.' Both ships then shortened sail and hove to, and we sent a boat on board, and then learnt that she had called at St. Helena, heard rumours of war with France, and thus the whole mistake arose ; for in those 26 AUTOBIOGRAPHY YOUTH. [Ch. I- days they only got news from St. Helena through the round-about way of the Cape of Good Hope. She had feared to give her name, lest we, being French, might fire into her. She had besides her crew six hundred soldiers and women and children, so it would have been a terrible thing had we fired. " On or about July 31st I was most mercifully saved from losing my right arm. A signal was made from the flag- ship for a midshipman ; I was sent to answer it in one of the ship's cutters ; it was near sunset ; we had to go to the side, where there was no accommodation-ladder. I gave the boat rather too much way, and she shot ahead of the gangway about a boat's length. I was standing on the stern-sheets, assisting to pull the boat astern ; I had my right arm in the port before the gangway, when the sentries fired their muskets at sunset. (I need not say that a lower- deck port of an eighty-four-gun ship, fitting into its rabbet, would crush off a strong man's arm.) It was usual in a line-of-battle ship to let go suddenly the tackles of all the lower-deck ports. I was a youngster, and very thin for my age. I felt the port on my arm ; it stopped shutting, so much so that I had some difficulty in drawing my arm out, when it was found that the side man-rope had jammed between the port and the after-sill of the port-hole, and saved my arm. If it had been in the next port forward, which had been the case a minute before, where there was no man-rope to jam it, all my prospects in the service would have been ruined. No one would have taken an officer into the surveying service who had lost his right arm. It was the first of the wonderful providences of God which have followed me through life. It had been a stand- ing joke against me that I was to be a commander at thirty years of age and a captain at thirty-five. It arose thus : Lieutenant Cotesworth was made a commander when the Thetis was paid off at Plymouth ; he was just thirty years of age. This led to my saying, ' Promotion would only be worth having if one were made a commander at thirty and a captain at thirty-five.' [This happened to him.] " On August 26th we anchored in St. Catherine's, and sailed again on the 29th for the river Plata. Arriving at Monte Video on the evening of September 3rd, we anchored in company with H.M. ships Forte, forty-four, and Cadmus, ten-gun brig. We found the town occupied 1810-29.] BRAZIL AND ARGENTINA AT WAR. 2 7 by Brazilian troops, and a strong Brazilian squadron, under an admiral, in the bay. The Brazilians were at war with the Argentine provinces, and both parties coveted the fine province of Uruguay, with its capital Monte Video, thus carrying on an old dispute between the Spaniards and Portuguese before they were independent of their mother-countries. The Brazilians held Monte Video, and as far around it as their guns could throw a shot ; but the Argentines held the country, and pro- bably a large number of the inhabitants of Uruguay assisted them, for they hated the Brazilians. One day a party of officers from the Thetis, of whom I was one, hired horses and went for a ride. We were returning to the town by a road or path along the crest of a ridge ; it sloped down on our left to a valley, in which ran a rivulet. Suddenly we saw what looked like a small party of cavalry in extended order. They leaped the rivulet, cantered up the slope, and when within one hundred yards they all fired their carbines at us, but the balls whistled over our heads. We sailed from Monte Video on September 26th for the purpose of watering, which consisted in going up the river till the water became fresh, and pumping it in with the wash-deck pump, anchoring as we did so. Before daybreak the next morning we saw two vessels standing towards us ; one of them fired a shot at us, which cut away our stay-sail stays and tricing-lines. We immediately got under way and followed them. They were a brig,, brigantine, and two schooners ; we believed them to be a Buenos Ayrean squadron that had mistaken us for a Brazilian frigate. One schooner nearly ahead fired at us — probably with a pivot-gun — a charge of round and grape- shot. The round-shot tore a large hole in one of our lighter sails ; one grape-shot lodged in the main-mast. Directly the shot was fired one old quartermaster who was at the helm said, ' There was grape in that.' We did not fire a shot, but we sent a boat to the brig, and found, as we expected, that they were a Buenos Ayrean squadron com- manded by their celebrated Admiral Brown. They had mistaken the Thetis for a Brazilian frigate. Admiral Brown had been in the Buenos Ayrean service since the War of In- dependence. There was a squadron of Spanish frigates at anchor at Monte Video. The government of Buenos Ayres fitted out several vessels, manned them with English and Americans, and gave the command to Mr. Brown, then 28 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch, I. mate of an English merchant-vessel. As soon as they were ready he sailed for Monte Video, and, choosing a dark night for it, ran the Spanish frigates on board, and carried them by boarding. We followed his squadron to Monte Video ; and in the afternoon, in broad daylight, we saw the same four vessels that had fired at us in the night standing out of Monte Video in line ahead. Brown's brig the stern most of them, three Brazilian frigates following, and the headmost firing bow-guns. They looked upon Brown as a madman, who would not hesitate to run his brig alongside any enemy's ship, and then set fire to his own vessel, or even blow up the two, even if he had to fire the magazine with his own hand. The object of running this risk was that a corvette of eighteen guns had recently arrived at Monte Video, having been fitted out in France, and they wanted to give her a chance of escaping from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres. This was fully accom- plished, for we saw her standing out, and she was after- wards manned and fitted out at Buenos Ayres. " December nth, 1827, was the day on which I first saw the Beagle, in which I served so long afterwards. I find on that date in my log : ' Exchanged numbers with H.M. barque Beagle: 10.40 a.m., anchored near H.M.B. Beagle' On the 1 2th we sailed in company with H.M.S. Cadmus, ten-gun brig, for a cruise off the coast of Patagonia. When off Cape Corrientes we experienced a pampero from S.S.W., which brought us under a close-reefed fore-topsail and fore-topmast stay-sail. We ran before it, with Cadmus on our larboard beam, under similar sail. The lightning was streaming down round Cadmus, so that it was a wonder neither vessel was struck. These were the days before Harris's lightning-conductors, when every man-of-war was supplied with a conductor of long links in a box, supposed to be triced up by signal-halliards, and long enough to reach from the main-truck to the water ; but in practice the box and conductor remained in the store-room, and even in a lightning-storm of this nature they were not triced up. The thunder was incessant all round us. It was the heaviest thunder-storm I ever witnessed, even in the Plata, where during pamperos they are very heavy. '_' [The Thetis was struck by lightning, the fore-topmast being badly splintered.] " One day at Rio Janeiro, when the liberty-men returned, they reported having seen in a crimping-house four or five 1810-29] MANNING THE BRAZILIAN NAVY. 29 of our men lashed up in hammocks, having been made drunk first. The captain immediately selected a dozen men, and sent them on shore under the command of Lieutenant Martin and the senior midshipman, Hamilton. They were armed with cutlasses and broomsticks, with strict orders not to use their cutlasses if broomsticks would do. They found the men, and brought them on board. They had no intention of deserting, and would have been taken on board some Brazilian ship-of-war that night. On April 9th, 1828, I have it noted in my log that six men — their names are given — left the boats for duty on shore. Having been treated in the same manner, they were taken on board the frigate Imperatrix, Captain Pritz, a Dane. It is certain they never volunteered for his ship, because it was said that when he flogged a man, if he was an Englishman, he always gave him an extra dozen lashes, with this remark, ' I shall make you remember Copen- hagen.' They were put in irons on board, and it was agreed among themselves that one man should pretend to enter for the ship, and look out for any of the Thetis' s boats that might be passing. They had only to wait a week, for on the evening of the i6th Captain Bingham had been in his gig to the head of the harbour, and when returning, on passing under the stern of the Imperatrix, he was hailed by the look-out man, who said, ' There are several of us confined on board, sir.' He at once went alongside, and, knowing he would want a witness of what would take place, he sent the gig to the Thetis for Lieutenant Bolton, and on his arrival he went up to Captain Pritz and demanded his men. A positive refusal was given. Captain Bingham then went to the gangway and sent the gig back to the Thetis with this message to the first lieutenant ; ' Send all the boats manned and armed to the Imperatrix directly, with orders to lay off and wait for the captain's orders.' I was barge midshipman, but on the sick-list, so another midshipman was sent in my place, also Lieu- tenant FitzRoy. Lieutenant Martin commanded the boats in the launch. I could not bear that at such a time I should not be in my old boat with her picked crew, so I went in her, and went forward to the head-sheets among the men, and I heard the words passed aft among the crew, ' We will make him remember Copenhagen.' The position of Captain Bingham and Lieutenant Bolton can be better conceived than described. Lieutenant FitzRoy asked 30 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. I. Lieutenant Martin, before we were half-way, if he might go on, as the barge pulled so much faster than any other boat. Captain Bingham went up to Captain Pritz, and said, ' I hear my boat's oars ; you had better give me my men.' They were out of irons and on deck, and he ordered them into the gig, which had returned alongside the Imperatrix. Captain Pritz showed the highest kind of courage by giving up the men. He knew he was in the wrong, and gave them up rather than risk a war between the two countries. One boy, who was some months absent from the ship, having been crimped and sent on board a Brazilian schooner-of-war, hailed Captain Bingham's boat as she was passing under the stern one day, saying he was confined on board against his will. Captain Bingham went on board and claimed him. He had no idea of deserting the ship. The schooner had been to the coast of Africa and back. It may appear at first sight as if the admiral who was in port should have been consulted before this extreme step was taken, and that it was a case for the English minister. But a previous case had occurred in which all this ' routine ' had been taken ; during the delay the men had been sent to another Brazilian man-of-war, and all trace of them lost. " We were moored all this time about half a mile below the usual anchorage of the Brazilian ships-of-war, to be near the dockyard, from which we obtained two long spars for sheers to get our damaged fore-mast out. We did this ■on the nth, and hauled it up in the dockyard. " It is fair to state that the system of manning the Brazilian ships-of-war was by crimping the men from the English ships, and, in consequence of ours being the only ship that gave leave, they were chiefly obtained from the Thetis. But we filled up the vacancies from the English merchant-vessels. It was a common custom for two or three men to come on board to enter, but we had not a single vacancy. We would tell them that such and such ships wanted men, but they refused to go to them ; it was evidently because they did not meet their men on leave. Though our fore-mast was hauled up in the government dockyard, our carpenters did the work. I find in my log : ' Received two of our men from a Brazilian brig-of-war.' On April 2ist the dockyard supplied a spar to make cheeks for the new fore-mast, the centre-piece of the old mast being unfit for that purpose, having been struck by lightning. On May 2ist we got the fore-mast in and put it in its 1810-29.] LORD AND LADY PONSONBY. 3 1 place, then got the sheers overboard to return them to the dockyard. On the 3 1 st Michael Waters, one of the smartest petty officers in the ship, fell from the mast-head and died in ten minutes. He died with his head on my knee, and with the doctor kneeling by his side. He was a native of Waterford. It is commonly said in the service that an Irishman never makes a smart seaman, and it is owing to this that volunteers for the navy come in batches from Liverpool, and there are many young Irishmen among them, or used to be, in my younger days. " On June ist, 1828, we sailed from Rio Janeiro in com- pany with the flag-ship. When twenty-nine miles from Cape Frio, we parted company with the admiral, for the purpose of proceeding to Buenos Ayres to embark Lord and Lady Ponsonby, Lord Ponsonby having been appointed our ambassador to the Brazilian Government. We parted company with the admiral on June 7th. We anchored at Monte Video on June 17th, and found there H.M.S. Heron (eighteen guns). She was commanded by the Hon. Frederick Grey, of whom it was said that if every Honour- able were as good an officer as he was, there would be more excuse for Lord promoting them all as fast as possible. We sailed again from Monte Video on the 26th for Buenos Ayres in company with the Heron. On June 29th we anchored in twenty feet of water off Buenos Ayres. The next day we were employed in dismounting guns, and fitting up cabins under the half-deck, and preparing to embark Lord and Lady Ponsonby and suite. On July 27th we sent the barge and pinnace on shore for them. I was in the barge. It blew a gale on shore, and the most that we could do was to try and reach the Heron. We had considerable difficulty in getting the party off the mule- carts, the only way then of reaching Buenos Ayres when there was a surf on the beach. (There is now a splendid pier at Buenos Ayres.) The Heron was several miles inside the Thetis and Sapphire. We had previously received on board the Thetis five horses. About half-past five we reached the Heron, and Commander Frederick Grey had to stow us away for the night. On reaching the ship she fired a salute, to which the ambassador was entitled. The Heron anchored near us the next day, and, sending the barge to her, we received Lord and Lady Ponsonby, Mr. Scott (secretary), three female servants, three men servants, and a child, with a load of luggage by 32 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. I. schooner. I see a notice in my log that the river fell four feet during the night, with the wind at south-west. There was a Brazilian squadron blockading Buenos Ayres at the same time. "On July 31st, at 2 p.m., we left Buenos Ayres, the Sapphire and Heron in company. In rounding the tail of the bank off Port Indio, the Thetis signalled to the Sapphire to report depth of water. Heron and Sapphire having hauled up to cross it, and the Thetis with her draught of water would have had to go several miles round. The report was half a fathom less than the Thetis drew. It was known to be a sand-bank. Captain Bingham said to Gowdy, the master, ' Do you think we should shove her through it ? ' We were going ten and a half knots. We hauled up, following the Sapphire. We felt distinctly when she touched the bank, and dragged through it with the speed reduced to five knots, and when we were off it we went eleven knots again. This shows the nerve of the captain and master. We were under larboard fore-topmast and topgallant studding-sails. The spars bent like coach-whips. " On the afternoon of August 2nd we anchored at Monte Video. The captain had given orders that we were not to confine the men to the boats,saying he would not punish good men for bad, adding, ' If they get drunk in the boat they know they will be flogged.' (The first time they got three dozen, and every other time there were six lashes added.) I was sent to the mole at Monte Video with the barge, launch, and pinnace to bring off oxen, which was usual in ships going from Monte Video to Rio Janeiro. So many men got drunk that we had to lash them to the thwarts. Immediately they reached the ship the men who were drunk were put in irons for punishment next morning, and picked men, none of whom had been punished before, were to replace them in the boats, to bring off the remainder of the oxen, as the ship was to sail for Rio Janeiro the next day. I was senior midshipman, and Captain Bingham gave me orders to leave the other mid- shipmen to load the boats, and go to the upper end of the mole to keep guard over the men, and not allow any of them to go too near a grog-shop. I had hardly taken my station when I saw a man named Nicholls at the junction of the timber structure with the stone-work peeping several times. I called to him by name, and he came. I said to him, ' I suppose you want to join those who are in irons, 1810-29.] jack's love of drink. 33 who you know are to be punished to-morrow morning.' To my astonishment he repHed, ' Mr. Sulivan, I'll get away if I can, and I'll get drunk if I can, and I can take my " batty " for it as well as another man.' I replied by ordering him to the boat again, and I walked down the length of the mole with him, knowing him to be one of the best men in the ship. The next morning I was going up as the men for punishment were taken out of irons under the half- deck, and I heard one named Collins, a petty officer and captain of the fore-top, saying, ' I have had twenty-six dozen, and now I am going up to get four more — that will be thirty dozen, even tallies.' The men arranged with each other that they would not ask to be let off, and would bear it without crying out, and the consequence was, Lord and Lady Ponsonby, who were in their dressing-cabins imme- diately below, were not aware that the men were being flogged over their heads. " On the afternoon of March 27th we arrived at Rio Janeiro. We found that Lieutenant Robert FitzRoy had been promoted to commander, in the vacancy caused by the death of Commander Stokes, of H.M. sloop Beagle. The first thing he did was to ask Captain Bingham if he had any objection to transfer me to the Beagle, of course with the admiral's consent, and in a very few days I joined her. I see by my log I joined the Beagle on December iSth, 1828, as a midshipman. The Beagle was anchored off Hospital Island for the purpose of heaving her down, which was done by hand, to a platform made of four large market-boats. Her bottom was in a shocking state. We ■ found that all the false keel was gone, with the greater part of the main-keel. Unfortunately the summer of that year was the warmest that had ever been experienced in Rio Janeiro. There was a well on Hospital Island, but the water had a bad name, and we had to send miles for better, and then fill our casks from a stream running across the road. The well in the island had unfortunately steps that led down to the water : the result was that I and others could not resist the cool water, but ran down the steps many times a day, dipping up a handful to drink. " One evening the subject discussed was ' ghosts,' in connection with Commander Stokes having shot himself in the poop-cabin. During the discussion the carpenter was sent for, and he declared that he would never disclose to mortal man what he had seen on board. Soon after 34 AUTOBIOGRAPHY — YOUTH. [Ch. I. this the first lieutenant (Kemp) came into the tent and ordered Sulivan, Stokes, Kirke, to take the whale-boat and our hammocks to the ship, and send the quartermaster on shore, remaining on board ourselves, as he required every seaman to commence rigging the ship. The first salutation we received as soon as we were alongside was, ' Don't go aft, for the ghost is there.' We professed not to believe "in ghosts, but we pulled the boat farther ahead, and got in through one of the bow-ports, under the top- gallant forecastle. We had only one duty to do, viz. to hail the commander, as he went on shore about eleven o'clock to his lodgings. This done, we retired to rest under the forecastle. It was my first watch. The poop- cabin door began to slam, disturbing our rest in the hammocks ; instantly there was a cry of ' Sulivan, go aft and shut the door. Take the lantern if you are afraid of the ghost ! ' they added in a jeering tone. The wind blew out the light in the lantern before I had traversed the distance from the fore-mast to the main-mast ; I ran forward again, but the poop-cabin door continued to slam, and they con- tinued to jeer. At last I found out that the door would not shut, and that was the reason of its slamming ; so I wedged it open. I was in a hammock on the port side, and Stokes, who was on the starboard side, said to me, ' I hear the sound as of some one breathing very loud ahead ; you look out of the port bow, and I will look out of the starboard one and listen.' We did hear sounds of heavy breathing, and soon after footsteps overhead. ' The ghost ! Tt is coming down ■ below! ' I slipped from my hammock behind the companion, and presently there appeared first one naked foot on a step, then a second. I pushed my hands through the open ladder and seized both ankles, when a voice above roared out, ' Oh ! the ghost ! it has got me ! ' It turned out to be one of the men, who, having taken too much, had gone to sleep in the larboard head, and so missed the boat which took the other men ashore. Rain coming on, he awoke, and thought he would go below, but was in great fear of the ghost ! " We experienced the heaviest pampero any vessel ever did on January 30th, 1829, when the barometer fell to 28.50. We were passing inside Lobos Island, and we had just made out the Adventure (Captain King), seeing her higher spars over Goritte Island, off Maldonado. I had been in a cot in the poop-cabin with an attack of 1810-29.] H.M.S. "beagle" in danger. 35 dysentery, consequent upon drinking the water on Hospital Island, and the doctor had told the commander when he reported the sick in the morning that there was no chance of my recovery. The water began to rise. We had been waited for by our consort, the Adventure, and we should have sailed in company with her for the southward at day- light the next morning, which had an important bearing on my future prospects in the service. The Beagle was on her beam-ends several times during the pampero, and at length the water was nearly up to the bottom of my cot, the port side, and I was told that two men whose names I well knew had fallen from the yards into the sea. I thought I might have a chance for my life as well as others. I managed to draw a pair of trousers on and to crawl from my cot. The force of the wind was such as to crush in the weather-quarter boat where she pressed against the davits. I went up the starboard poop-ladder, and then I saw from the mizzen-mast on which I was standing the commander standing on one of the uprights of the poop-rail, and holding on by another upright. She was so much over that the topsail yards blew up to the mast's head, with a man upon each yardarm clinging to the lift, the one upon the lee yard- arm with the help of the brace-block strop, while the one upon the weather yardarm managed to crawl in, and he was seen on the cap, where he was heard to say, ' Thank God, I have got in out of that ! ' I, from my standing-place, the mizzen-mast, saw that she was standing direct for the rocks and breakers on Lobos Island, and I reported it to the commander. He replied, saying, ' So she is,' and immediately ordered both anchors to be let go. The water was so shallow that she touched the small bower-anchor when passing over it ; but the two anchors brought her up, and saved her running on Lobos." The autobiography breaks off suddenly here. At the time of writing the above my father was asked to con- tribute some reminiscences of his old friend Admiral Sir A. Cooper Key. By the time he had completed these, his failing powers prevented his continuing the history of his own life. CHAPTER II. H.M.S. "BEAGLE," H.M. KETCH "ARROW," ETC. 1831-42. On the advice of FitzRoy, in view of his approaching examination for the rank of Ueutenant, SuHvan only remained in the Beagle as midshipman until February 12th, 1829. He then joined the Ganges, Captain Inglefield, leaving her on April 12th for the North Star, Captain Arabin, evidently for a passage home. On December 8th he passed his examination in seamanship. He was entered as mate of the Undaunted, Captain Clifford. His seniority as lieutenant is dated April 3rd, 1830. I have always understood that my father, having obtained full marks at the Naval College, and also on passing for lieutenant, was given that rank almost immediately, without the usual service as mate, which to many men without interest meant sometimes a period of ten years before becoming lieutenants. Christmas of this year was spent with the Young family at Barton End. In July 1831 FitzRoy was again appointed to the Beagle, for the purpose of undertaking another surveying voyage to the southern parts of South America, and of completing a chain of meridian distances round the world. He took Sulivan as second lieutenant. As descrip- tions of this celebrated voyage have been given by both Admiral FitzRoy and Professor Darwin, I will refrain from the temptation to reproduce many of the interesting letters my father sent home. The Beagle fitted out at Plymouth 36 1831-36.J A SOMNAMBULIST AT TEA. 37 in the autumn of 183 1. At that time the family of Admiral Young were staying there, so my father was often able to meet my mother. Although no word on the subject was spoken, the affection then formed was mutual. The labour of fitting out, especially towards the end, was very heavy. From my father's letters it appears he was feeling the effects of the overwork, for he mentions more than once having fallen asleep in the evenings at friends' houses. The night before the Beagle sailed there was a ball on shore, and Sulivan was hoping to meet Miss Young there for the last time before the long voyage. Having had a hard day's work, at five o'clock he went to his cabin for a nap, telling the steward to rouse him at half-past seven, that he might join the gun-room tea before going on shore to dress. On awaking, he was astonished to find it was daylight. He called the steward, and asked the time. " Eight o'clock, sir." " What do you mean ? " " Eight in the morning, sir." " What, have I missed the ball ? Why did you not call me ? " "I did, sir." " Then, when I did not appear at tea, why did you not call me again." " You did have tea, sir." Hearing a titter in the ward-room, he got up, and was told the following tale. The officers were at tea, when he appeared in his night-shirt and night-cap, shouldering a big duck -gun he had hung in his cabin. He deposited this in the corner, went to his place at table, drank the tea they put before him, then rose, shouldered the gun again, and marched back to bed. This was a curious case of somnambulism. The officers, seeing he was evidently overwrought, did not like to awaken him, so he missed the ball. Owing to heavy gales, the Beagle twice returned after having put out to sea before she finally sailed on December 27th, so there was an oppor- tunity after all for the farewell to be spoken. It was the opinion of all on board the Beagle that never 38 H.M.S. "BEAGLE," ETC. [Ch. II. had a vessel left England better equipped for the special service she was to be engaged in. Captain FitzRoy called the officers together, and said, " If a man falls overboard, if we lose a spar or ship a sea, I shall blame the officers of the watch." During the whole voyage, part of the time in one of the most stormy regions of the world, not one of these events happened, except the shipping of one sea just after my father had relinquished the deck to FitzRoy. The captain always had the ports secured, saying that a ship had no business to be in the position to require them for freeing ports. My father never liked this order, and told the carpenter always to have a handspike handy for eventualities. On the occasion in question the vessel was on her beam-ends.* On my father reaching the deck from below, he found the carpenter up to his waist in water, standing on the bulwark, driving a handspike against the port, which he eventually burst open. This probably saved the ship, for she righted in time to meet the next heavy sea. No skill could have prevented the accident, for the ship was struck by three heavy breaking seas in succession, and the third came on board. FitzRoy's orders will repay perusal. One was that no one was to go out of sight of the ship except in company with at least two others. If one man were hurt, a comrade could stay with him whilst the third went for assistance. The only time this rule was broken was at the Falklands, when Mr. Hellyer, the clerk, who had gone out shooting alone, was drowned in a lake within sight of the ship's topmasts. Sulivan's father had said to him before starting, " Pick and send home any strange plant you find." This he did. The botanist Lindley was a great friend of his father's, and * See FitzRoy's " Voyage of the Adventure and Beagle^' vol. ii., p. 125. 1831-36.] BOTANY. 39 used to examine the plants that arrived. Some of them having seeds, he cultivated these. In this way the Tropasolum and another of our now popular creepers were introduced into England. Although my father did not attain to the rank of a scientific botanist, the subject greatly interested him, and the pursuit brought him into close friendship with Sir William and Sir Joseph Hooker, as well as with Darwin. The latter has borne testimony in his books to the correctness of Sulivan as an observer of scientific phenomena. Although not receiving the pay of a surveyor, Sulivan acted as one throughout the entire voyage. It was doubt- less to this expedition that he owed his fondness for and skill in surveying and seamanship. There were no steam- launches or lifeboat cutters in those days ; all the work had to be done in sailing-boats. FitzRoy replaced the dangerous dipping lug with two standing lugs, and this rig Sulivan always adopted afterwards. In the Rio Plata he boasted of his boats outsailing those of the whole squadron. Throughout the many years of constant boat- work in the Beagle, Arrow, and Philomel, no accident occurred ; this he greatly attributed to the use of this rig. On the arrival of the Beagle at Buenos Ayres, FitzRoy, anxious to accomplish as much work as he could, pur- chased and fitted out at his own expense two little vessels in which to send officers on detached surveys. Lieutenant Wickham was given charge of one, Mr. Stokes, the mate, of the other. Sulivan thus describes the vessels : — "The cabin in Stokes's craft is seven feet long, seven wide, and thirty inches high. In this three of them stow their hammocks, which in the daytime form seats and serve for a table. In a little space forward, not so large, are stowed five men. The larger boat carries the 40 H.M.S. " BEAGLE," ETC. [Ch. II. instruments. Her cabin is the same size, but is four feet high, and has a table and seats." In these craft did one or other of the oiificers survey the coast from the Rio Plata to the Straits of Magellan over a period of nearly twelve months, whilst the Beagle was engaged farther south. In the meantime FitzRoy had added to the " squadron " a schooner-yacht, a much better vessel, which he named the Adventure (after the ship com- manded by Captain King), and she was his consort during nearly the whole of the South American cruise. In such vessels and in open boats did he and his officers get through the immense amount of laborious surveying work that was accomplished. Sulivan had his share of ordinary boat work, and during Wickham's long absences did first lieutenant's duties. In December 1834 came his turn to undertake a separate survey. On Christmas Eve he started to survey the east side of the Island of Chiloe and the islets in the Gulf of Ancud. With him went Darwin, three officers, and ten men. They returned on January 7th, but went back to the same ground a few days later, Darwin not accompany- ing them this time. On the 17th they rejoined the Beagle in San Carlos Harbour. Some extracts from the accounts of these trips may prove interesting : — "Berkeley Sound, February 1833. "As we went on the sea became very high, and the farther we went the worse it was. In the yawl we got on pretty well. The wind was blowing the water up in sheets of white spray, flying over the boat's mast-head, and the only sail we could carry was a close-reefed fore-sail. The sea was so high that at two cables' distance from each other it hid the mast-heads of the boats when they were in the hollow of the sea. Just at this place the whaler broached to and shipped a good deal of water, but luckily they got her before it again before the next sea came. 1831-36.] BOATING EXPEDITIONS. 4 1 We were at this time about two cables' lengths ahead of her, but had she gone we could not have helped her, as it would have been almost impossible to round to with safety, and if we did we could not have got one inch back. It was a very anxious time — I think more so than I ever yet experienced. As we neared the point the sea got much worse, from the tide forming a race ; but the distance through this was very short, and directly we passed the rocks off the point we should be in smooth water. The rocks are about a hundred yards from the shore, and tremendous breakers on them and the shore also, but between these was one small part where it did not break ; and as every moment was of consequence, and outside the rocks there was a much heavier sea, we ran for this little opening. Just before coming to it a roller reached us, and carried us on its top right over the ridge without our shipping a drop of water, and the next moment we were round the point in smooth water ; but this was by far the most anxious time for me, as we were also out of sight of the whaler, and it was for her safety that I was so anxious. However, just as we went round to stand back under the point we saw her swing round outside the rocks, as they thought it better to run the risk of the sea than to come through the passage inside it. The relief and comfort I felt when she was safe alongside us in smooth water I cannot describe. We got into a snug little cove, where we pitched the tents, secured the boats, and got dinner under way. The weather cleared up a little, so as to enable us to get a few things dry. While dinner was cooking I walked over to the point we had come round with the instruments ; but it blew so hard that I could not put one up, not a stand would remain fixed, and we could not stand on the top of the beach ourselves. As it was warm walking and carrying instruments, and the sky being clear, I left my coat behind me at the tents, and on our return it came on to rain, hail, and snow, and I got a complete drenching. The yawlers had now the laugh on their side, as the whalers had had their bags filled with water when the sea came into the boat, and had not a dry stitch of clothes or blankets. However, they got them partly dry before night. We were fortunate to find plenty of wreck-wood on the beach, and we had a glorious fire, round which we sat singing till ten o'clock at night, when a heavy hail-shower drove us into the tents. We all then crowded into one tent, and 42 H.M.S. "BEAGLE," ETC. [Ch. II. went on singing till twelve, and I never under any cir- cumstances saw a more merry party. All the comic songs that any one knew were mixed up with yarns of English, Irish, Scotch, and Welsh ; and as we had about an equal number of each country, it raised bits of laughter against them all in their turns : neither did the west country escape." " Rio Negro, September ^th, 1833. " On August 29th I left in the yawl with a mate and ten men. We started from the ship at i p.m. with a strong breeze but a favourable tide, and we beat up to Punta Alta in time to have everything landed, the tents rigged, and the pot under way before sunset. Tea is a great luxury in cruises of this kind. We always boiled a large boiler holding four gallons full every morning for breakfast, and the same for supper, and we never had any left, and, as there were only twelve of us, we must have drunk one- eighth of a gallon each meal, or five and a half pints a day. The same pot full of a mess made of salt pork, fresh beef, venison, and biscuit was also emptied for dinner, and meat also of some kind both for breakfast and supper. Such hardships are hard to put up with, the idea of being among mud-banks in a boat with nothing but a waterproof awning to cover her with, and thick blankets to sleep in, with only two pounds of meat, two-thirds of a gallon of tea, one pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of rum each man per day is dreadful ! ! ! " In the evening we got all ready for beginning work at daylight, and then part went on board the boat to sleep. On the 30th we began at 6 a.m., and had finished our work by breakfast-time, but waited for Darwin to examine the beach at low water for fossil remains of animals, which are very plentiful. Besides getting some he had seen before, he this morning found the teeth of animals six times as large as those of any animal now known in this country, also the head of one about the size of a horse, with the teeth quite perfect and totally different from any now known, and just at low-water mark he found the remains of another about six feet long, nearly perfect, all embedded in solid rock. We started at low water for the settlement, leaving two hands digging out the bones. " After supper we all went on board, and moored the 1831-36.] BOATING EXPEDITIONS. 43 boat head and stern about four yards from the bushes, to ensure her grounding in the centre where the mud was quite soft. The evening looked very gloomy, with heavy thunder and lightning ; but we were quite snug under an awning, which we filled as much as possible with tobacco smoke, to drive away the mosquitoes and sand-flies, which were very troublesome. By filling the upper part of the awning with smoke we kept them all out. I never in my life, I think, laughed in the way I did for about three hours at the stories they were all telling in turns. We had among the men two or three excellent hands for keeping every one alive, and to-night they performed their part to perfection. Such hands are invaluable in a cruise of that kind, particularly if the woi'k is very hard, as they keep men's spirits up in a most surprising manner. I think I never in my life saw people more happy than all our party were ; they were in roars of laughter from morning till night, and up to all kinds of amusements when on shore, except when I brought them to an anchor occasionally to prevent their shaking the ground (near my instruments), and then they would find something amusing in that ; and when men in those spirits are happy and comfortable, it is astonishing how they make work fly." "' Beagle,' AT sea, November \^th, 1834. "It [Chiloe] will be a pleasant cruise, and all the officers want to go with me. I am to have Usborne, Johnson, and King, the assistant surgeon, and five men, besides the pilot, making a party of ten. We shall have the dinghy with us, so the yawl will be turned into a complete man-of-war. We expect to finish the work as far as Valparaiso by the end of April, when we shall no more return to the south. "November igtk. — It was declared yesterday by the doctors that if they were to pick out the most robust and healthy person in the Beagle it would be me. However, the cruise in the yawl will, I have no doubt, take me down a little, though I never enjoyed better bodily health than I do in these cruises. Still, the work, fag, and anxiety all tend to keep a person from getting too stout. I am to have six men and one boy ; and as the best singers and most diverting characters in the ship are among them — and they are all of that kind, and are up to anything — we shall have, I hope, a very pleasant party. We shall have a large bag 44 H.M.S. " BEAGLE," ETC. [Ch. II. full of flour and raisins on purpose for a good plum-dough on Christmas Day. " You cannot think how I have enjoyed the society of Mrs. Miller's and Mrs. Patterson's little children at Valpa- raiso. I was their chief friend, and they came to me for everything they wanted. One day I had a large party of ten children on board, the eldest six and the youngest two and a half years old, and for four hours all the big children amused themselves seeing the little ones playing hide-and-seek and other games about the deck." " H.M. ' Beagle's Yawl,' San Carlos, January <)th, 1835. " It rained every day but one for six weeks, and most of the days never ceased raining, but by great good luck we have not had one person unwell. " I shall amuse you with a few stories. For instance, our foraging on a small island inhabited by Indians, on Christmas morning, from nine to twelve, in a heavy gale of wind and tremendous rain, before we could get eggs enough to make our plum-pudding or a sheep to eat. How- ever, we got into the padre's house attached to the church, as our tents, clothes, and blankets were wet through, and by 4 p.m. had one side of a sheep roasted, another side boiled, twelve pounds of English fresh roast beef heated, and two immense plum-puddings made. No bad quantum for twelve men ! It would have amused you if you could have seen us in a dirty room with a tremendous fire in the middle, and all our blankets and clothes hung round the top on lines, getting smoked as well as dry, while all hands were busily employed for four hours killing a sheep, picking raisins, beating eggs, mixing puddings which were so large that, in spite of two-thirds of the party being west- country men, we had enough for supper also. However, we passed a pleasant day in spite of wind and weather, and it was a holiday to us, as we could only afford to knock off work when it rained too hard constantly to be able to move, which happened on Christmas Day and New Year's Day. Every other day for eight weeks we were hard at work. It is very curious that I am always in better health in a boat, for I never have enjoyed such perfect good health for two months since leaving England." On one occasion, it being desired to find out the con- dition of the Beagle's bottom after she had struck a rock, 1831-36.] ROUND THE WORLD. 45 Sulivan dived down under the keel, and, having ascertained things were not very bad, came up the other side, bleeding from several scratches received from the jagged copper. FitzRoy, wishing to make doubly sure, then performed the same action himself. In May 1835 a Chilian gentleman lent FitzRoy the schooner Constitucion, of twenty-six tons. Sulivan was despatched in her to examine the coast near Coquimbo, and that of Chili as far as Paposa. His commander wrote in allusion to this trip, " I well knew that Lieutenant Sulivan would not only make despatch, but do also extremely correct work." This cruise lasted until August 30th. As the Beagle was then about to leave for her voyage to the west, Sulivan could not be spared longer, so Mr. Usborne, master's assistant, was sent in the schooner to survey the coast of Peru. Sulivan describes him as one of the best seamen he ever knew. Sulivan had another expedition in the yawl to survey the centre of the Galapagos Islands. In December 1835 the Beagle reached New Zealand, after touching at Ota- heite. The month following she arrived at Sydney, where Mr. King left them to join his father. The Beagle sailed for England, calling at Mauritius, the Cape, and other places on her way home for the purpose of observa- tions for meridian distances. She arrived at Greenwich in November 1836. One story not related by FitzRoy I may now give without offence. On the return of the vessel after such an interesting voyage, so many people came to visit her that the captain gave the order that respectable-looking persons only were to be admitted by the accommodation-ladder ; others were to enter by the gangway (where some projec- tions three inches wide against the ship's side afford foothold, there being two ropes to assist the climber). 46 H.M.S. " BEAGLE," ETC. [Ch. II. Sulivan, who was at the time on watch, noticed the sentry wave a boat away from the ladder round to the gangway. Presently the head of a very pretty, stylish woman ap- peared in it, and Sulivan went forward to assist her. She was followed by a rather plain-looking man, who asked for the captain. After they had been conducted below, FitzRoy came on deck, much put out, and said, " Do you know it is the] Astronomer Royal who has been treated with such scant ceremony ? " He was paying what was somewhat of an officiai visit, with his wife. When the captain had retired below, Sulivan rated the sentry for his want of discrimination. The man replied, " Well, sir, he did not look respectable ! " Thirty-three years afterwards the nine officers who had been such close companions and friends were all still alive ; then the first break began. Now the only survivor is Mr. Philip King, of Sydney. I annex a few remarks written by him and the late Admiral Mellersh, who died only recently. 1 might add, in relation to Darwin, that he suffered so much from seasickness that whenever the ship was out of harbour he retired to his hammock in the chart- room, the only accommodation afforded him. My father said he believed it was this constant suffering which laid the seeds of the indisposition he was troubled with in later years, and that his patience in persevering with his scientific work, and not abandoning the voyage, was most commendable. FitzRoy added the following lines to SuHvan's official certificate of service in the Beagle : — " To this usual certificate I am anxious to add a few words expressive of my very high opinion of your ability, integrity, and high-principled zeal. I have known you and watched your conduct ever since your entry into the .service, and 1 sincerely believe that a worthier young man is not to be found. Wherever you go, or whatever 1831-36.] messmates' recollections. 47 may be my lot, remember that among your numerous friends one of the earliest and not the least sincere is " Robert FitzRoy." From the late Admiral A. Mellersh, C.B. :— "Hove, Brighton, February iSih, 189 1. " Dear Mr. Sulivan,— I have not ' the pen of a ready writer,' but I may say that I have had, in nearly thirty years' actual sea-service, great opportunities of seeing and judging of naval officers, and I do not hesitate to declare my opinion that your father was amongst the ' first flight.' He was a perfect sailor, a first-rate observer and navigator, a capital gunnery officer, and indeed an 'all- round man.' As I am writing a scene comes into my mind. We were near the western entrance of the Straits of Magellan, in mid-winter, going westward ; it was blow- ing hard ; treble-reefed topsails and reefed courses ; the main-sail hauled up, but not furled ; wind from westward. I (then a mate) was officer of the 'middle watch' (12 to 4 a.m.). The captain directed your father to keep with me. The night was inky dark, when about i a.m. the look-out man called out, ' Rocks close on the starboard beam.' As we were ' land-locked ' the water was smooth. Your father gave the order ' Lower main-sail,' and the watch ran the ' main-tack on board,' and hauled aft the main-sheet so quickly, that, though so close to the perpendicular rocks, the lee clew of the main-sail nearly touched the wall- like cliff. The ship sprang off like an arrow from a bow. A moment's indecision would have been fatal ; but there was none, and the ship was saved. Though your father was only a year my senior in years, I learned from him and Wickham all that made me successful in my own long service as first lieutenant. In conclusion, I may say that your father was one of my dearest friends on earth, and one whom I hope I may meet again in heaven. " Yours very truly, " A. Mellersh." From Mr. Philip Gedley King : — "Sydney, 1892. " Never shall I forget the kindly welcome he gave us as we stepped on board after our hazardous absence [in the 48 H.M.s. "beagle," etc. [Ch. II. small craft, with Lieutenant Wickham]. His was the cheery, open heart which held out the hand of genuine friendship to any one, though of inferior rank in the service. As the voyage proceeded changes were made, and I became not only his shipmate but his helpmate ; and later on he was appointed by Captain FitzRoy to take his share in the small-craft service, which added so much to the real work performed by the officers of the Beagle. " To his craft I had the happiness of being appointed, and the few months spent on board her are full of memories of pleasant relationship with my commander, with whom or from whom I do not ever remember to have had an angry word. Full of zeal for the service, and animated with a somewhat fiery spirit in the prosecution of his duty, he yet had the gentle heart and kindness of disposition which marks so eminently those ' who go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in the great waters ' — these are they ' who tell out the works of the Lord with gladness,' and offer their hearts to their fellow-men. " It was at Sir James Sulivan's instance that a portrait was painted of our estimable commander, Robert FitzRoy, now hanging on the walls of the Painted Hall of Green- wich (Hospital that was), a photograph of which has had a place in my library, opposite that of his old senior officer, my father, the late Admiral Phillips Parker King (of H.M.S. Adventure)- — and not far away are the likenesses of Darwin, Wickham, Usborne, Mellersh, and of my lamented friend. "Philip Gedley King." On the return of the Beagle the visits to Barton End were resumed, and the two whose affection had been so well tested by absence without correspondence were married on January 14th, 1837. In December of that year my father was appointed to the schooner Pincher, intended for watching the slave-trade on the west coast of Africa. But a few weeks afterwards the Hydrographer, Captain Beaufort, was wanting an officer to undertake the survey of the Falkland Islands. He wrote to FitzRoy, asking about Sulivan's qualifications for the post. The I837-39-J FITZROY ON SULIVAN's CAPABILITIES. 49 following is his reply (a copy of which he enclosed to Sulivan), resulting in the latter's appointment to the ketch Arrow for the work in question : — "31, Chester Street, January ^th, 1838. " Dear Captain Beaufort, — In answer to your note with respect to Lieutenant Sulivan, I will try to put the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth into as few words as possible. In my humble opinion (having known him ever since he got the first medal at the Naval College) Sulivan is ' up to the business completely^ He is as thorough a seaman, for his age, as I know, and he has been used to the smallest craft as well as to the largest ships. He is an excellent observer, calculator, and sur- veyor, and I may truly say that his abilities are better than those of any man who has served with me. Besides these advantages he has the solid foundation of the highest principles, and an honest and warm heart. Nothing on earth would induce Sulivan to swerve from his duty, even in the smallest degree. Whatever he may have to do, he will do honestly and as well as circumstances allow. " Now for his defects — and who has none ? Sulivan is eager — often hasty — and wants some of the reserve, and caution towards strangers, which sailors seldom have while young. He was fidgety, and never thought he or those with him were going fast enough ; but this is wearing off fast. In official minutiae, forms, letters, etc., he may at first appear deficient, having undervalued them perhaps too much. He is not a neat draftsman, though his chart work is extremely correct. (His hand is not quick enough for his mind, or his mind is too quick for his hand.) This is all that I, or any m,an, can say against him. " May I now conclude by saying, earnestly, that I know no young man, of his age, equal to him in abilities and high principles ? " Most respectfully and sincerely yours, " Robert FitzRoy." Another officer was sent to take the command of the Pincher. Both vessels fitted out at Chatham. Sulivan had been a week with the crew of the Pincher, preparing her. As a good and therefore a cautious sailor, he had taken 4 so H.M.S. "BEAGLE," ETC. [Ch. II. down all the long spars suitable for the tropics, and fitted shorter ones. His successor's first exclamation on taking her over was, "What has become of her long spars?" Sulivan replied, " They are stowed below until wanted. I was not going to take her down Channel with them in the winter." " What are you afraid of?" said the officer ; " I intend to have them up." So they were replaced, with the canvas belonging to them. The two vessels being ready for sea at the same time, the Pinchers commander suggested a race round to Portsmouth. When near Beachy Head, the schooner of course leading by some distance, a thick squall came on. The look-out man said he could not see the Pincher, so it was supposed she had run ahead into the mist. But on reaching Portsmouth they found no Pincher there. A week afterwards they found her in the Channel, bottom up, with every sail standing, the sad result of foolhardiness ! The bodies of the watch below were all in her, showing she must have capsized instantly. These Sulivan had to identify. Although there are many interesting letters concerning the surveys both of the coasts and of the interior, and accounts of the life in the islands, I have not space for them in this volume. Sulivan published his remarks on the islands in a pamphlet, which was translated into French. The climate appears to resemble that of the west of Scotland. The high winds prevent the growth of trees. When the breeze blows from the mainland of America, the dryness of the air is remarkable. To this and the equable though not genial temperature Sulivan attributed the great healthiness of the place. The Arrow came home in 1839. Captain Beaufort was much pleased with the work done. In May 1841 Sulivan was made a commander. In an official letter to his father the secretary to the Admiralty 1^42.] THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 5 I said that, as a special mark of their lordships' approbation of his services as commodore on the Brazilian station, they had promoted his son. In 1842 it became necessary to undertake a further survey in connection with the Falklands and the Rio Plata. Beaufort again selected Sulivan for the task, and he was appointed to the brig Philomel. The account of his work in the Rio Plata will be found in the following chapter ; that in the Falkland Islands must be dismissed for want of space in a few words. As will be seen, his wife and family accompanied him thither. My mother found time to make a collection of the flora of the islands. The plants sent home were arranged by Miss Warren, a lady botanist who lived at Flushing ; Lindley also examined them, and named some plants after the finder. My brother. Commander James Young Falkland Sulivan, was the first British subject born on the Falkland Islands. The Falkland plant of greatest value is the tussac-grass, growing six feet in height, and containing, weight for weight, almost as much nutriment as corn, as testified by the Royal Agricultural Society's chemist. Sulivan con- sidered it would thrive well in the western islands of Scotland, or Ireland. He introduced it to the late Sir James Matheson, who planted it at Stornoway, where it answered all expectations. But it was at last destroyed, owing to the neglect of the injunction not to let tlte cattle feed on the plant, but to cut it. A fresh attempt should be made to introduce this valuable plant, but it must be fenced in. Note. — A short account of another visit to the Falkland Islands will be found in Appendix B. CHAPTER III. THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. 1842-46. It may be well to give an outline of the cause of the disturbances which led to the three years' siege of Monte Video, and to the British interference, resulting in the Parana campaign of 1845-46. Since the Declaration of Independence in 1816, every state in this part of South America had been in almost a constant condition of anarchy. At length arose a man of great force of character, Juan Manuel de Rosas, who became president of the Argentine Republic. He first drove out the aborigines. Backed up by an army of Gauchos, he obtained unlimited power, and was not scrupulous as to the means of retaining it.* After con- * The following stories I remember hearing from my father illustrate the power Rosas exercised, and the means he did not hesitate to adopt to strengthen that power. Once one of my father's brothers was dining with some friends in Buenos Ayres during Rosas' reign of terror. Suddenly a friend of the family rushed in, saying he heard a domiciliary visit would be paid them that evening. The head of the house said that he had done nothing against Rosas, and that he had nothing to fear. One of the family recollected that a room upstairs was papered in green, the opposition colour. That would be sufficient to damn them. The whole party, my uncle included, left the table, went upstairs, and with every instrument obtainable scraped the walls clean and removed the debris. They had not long finished when the domiciliary visit was made, but nothing objectionable was found ! An officer was going up-country, so he asked Rosas if he had any commission for him to execute. Rosas replied, " You will pass Fort . Will you take this letter to the commandant for me ? " " Certainly," the officer said. Before starting, he met a friend, who said, " Be careful ; I hear your name is on the black list." " Oh no, 52 1842-46.] JUAN MANUEL DE ROSAS. 53 solidating his power at Buenos Ayres, he turned his atten- tion to the subjugation of the Banda Oriental, the capital of which was Monte Video. In 1842 there were two rival leaders of the hostile factions in this town — Oribe and Riviera. Oribe being worsted, fled to Rosas, by whom he was supplied with men and money. Oribe then re- turned, overran the Banda Oriental, and laid siege to Monte Video. His operations were conducted with great cruelty. He tried to starve the garrison into a surrender. The Buenos Ayrean squadron, under the command of an Englishman named Brown (previously referred to), cut off the supplies by sea. Mr. Mandeville, the British Minister, and Commodore Purvis encouraged the Monte Videans to resist with hopes of British support. This, however, was a great mistake. When Riviera had been defeated outside the town, had Oribe been allowed to enter, the cruel war extending over nearly four years would have been avoided. As he was not permitted to enter, Oribe gave out that neither life nor property would be respected on the capture of the city. This raised a strong feeling among the foreigners against him. Three I have just left Rosas, who was very friendly, and asked me to take a note for him." " Well, don't take it." But he would not listen to the advice. On reaching the fort, he handed the letter to the commandant, who read it, and said, "Do you know the contents of this letter?" "No," the officer said, "General Rosas asked me to bring it to you." " Well, look at it ! " It read, " Shoot him ! " He was shot. Several conspiracies were formed to put an end to Rosas. Once, one of the conspiring party, having undertaken to kill Rosas, actually obtained the post of guard outside the door of Rosas' room. He prepared his pistol, when Rosas appeared. The mere sight of him was sufficient to strike terror into the heart of the conspirator, who dropped upon his knees and confessed his intention. Rosas' daughter Manuelita was a general favourite. When a young girl, she saw from her balcony an English midshipman at the door of the hotel opposite in difficulties with his horse. She ran down to the street, jumped upon the man's saddle, galloped the animal up and down a few times, and then returned it to the humiliated midshipman in the sight of his shipmates. Manuelita afterwards resided near Southampton, where I believe my father once or twice called to see her. S8 56 Map of the PARANA and th e adjacent co untry, Statute Miles ro zo 40 60 Longitude West 58 of Greenwich IValker Q-Soutallsc. 1842-46.] CAUSE OF THE WAR. 5 5 thousand residents (chiefly Basques and Piedmontese) were armed, and a nondescript force was raised by an Englishman named " Cockney Sam." To imitate the uniforms of the British regiments, he dressed them in red shirts. The celebrated Garibaldi, having formerly been taken prisoner and treated badly by Urquieza, one of Rosas' generals, raised a party of five hundred Italian sailors from the coasting-vessels. He adopted Sam's idea of the red shirt, a dress which in later years became still more celebrated in Italy. Rosas determined to gain possession of both banks of the Rio de la Plata. England and France, having formerly guaranteed the independence of the Banda Oriental, after much vacillation on the part of our authorities, at length actively intervened, and in 1845 summoned Rosas to with- draw his troops. On his refusal. Brown's squadron was captured, and a blockade was proclaimed against Oribe. Admiral Inglefield had succeeded to the command of the British squadron. Admiral Lain6 being at the head of the French. While these events were passing. General Urquieza, a nominee of Rosas, was governor of Entre Rios. The presi- dent of the revolted province of Corrientes was General Maderiaga, who formed a league against Rosas with the independent province of Paraguay. These two states had collected an army, over which was placed General Paz, a rival of Rosas. In 184s the British and French ships were ordered to reopen the Parana, which had been closed by Rosas, who thereupon concentrated his opposition at Obligado. After forcing the defences at this point, the combined squadrons proceeded to Corrientes, eight hundred miles up the river, convoying a large number of merchant-ships, which were sent for the purpose of taking up manufactured goods and S6 THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. III. releasing the produce of the inland states, which had been accumulating for some time at Corrientes. At this conjuncture my father's part in the events on the Parana commences. But as the Philomel, which he commanded, worked in the summer on the survey of the Falkland Islands, proceeding during the winter with the surveys of the river Plata, a chronological record would be confusing. I shall therefore not refer further to the work in the Falklands. H.M.S. Philomel, referred to in the previous chapter, was one of the beautiful Simondite brigs, and well upheld the reputation of her builder. She sailed from Plymouth on July 25th, 1842. Sulivan had put thirty tons of ballast in her, in lieu of the customary fifteen. He believed it was want of sufficient ballast that caused the one or two losses that had occurred in this class of vessel, and wrote a few days after sailing : — " The officers * and crew are all I could possibly wish for. I am delighted with the ship ; I was never in a drier vessel." He wrote from Rio on September i Jth : — " My men are constantly on shore without officers. There has been no case of drunkenness and no desertion. I have had to disrate one petty officer, one of the best men in the ship, who had been five years in the Beagle, for disrespect to a lieutenant. I hope' to avoid the use of the ' cat ' by making them feel certain they will have it if they break rules." He arrived at Monte Video on October 3rd, and found the unsettled state of affairs already referred to.f As it * The officers were: — Lieutenants: Harston, George H. Richards (afterwards Hydrographer). Master: John F. Rees. Surgeon : William Chartres ("one of the best in the service"). Assistant Surgeon: M. C. French. Clerk: G. W. Pickthorne. Mids : W. S. Sulivan and Steveley. f An invasion of Uruguay by Rosas was expected. 1842-46.] H.M.S. "PHILOMEL." 57 was arranged for his wife to join him with his family at Monte Video later on, he writes to her : — " If you come out, it is settled in the gun-room you are to go too ; but if there is any fighting, you are to be put in a two-ton tank ! " 'Y\ie. Philomel\^i\. for the Falklands on October 14th, and returned to the river Plata on April ist, 1843. Mr. Fegan there joined as assistant surveyor. The town of Monte Video was blockaded by land, and the inhabitants were anticipating a blockade to be declared by Rosas' squadron by sea also. The marines of the fleet were landed to protect British property. By this time, in order, smartness, and discipline, the Philomel would have borne comparison with the best ships in the service. On one occasion, having weighed very quickly from a difficult position in answer to an unexpected signal from the admiral, as the Philomel passed under the flag-ship's stern, the flag-captain. Captain G. B. Martin, a well-known and good officer, was standing there with a number of officers, and hailed her, saying, " Sulivan, we may well call her the pride of the station." The crew of the Philomel were considered smarter than any of the fleet, and she was the admiration of both French and English officers, who would often watch to see what smart thing she would next do. Various stories could be told illustrating this. Once, Sulivan, having to work the Philomel out to windward between two lines of vessels, could not quite weather a French ship at the head of one line, so he kept her on until she seemed about to touch the ship, when, putting the helm down, he shot the Philomel up dead in the wind's eye some distance, until she cleared the Frenchman's bow- sprit ; then he paid her off and sailed her clear away. A 58 THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. III. French officer went on shore to the club, and, after excitedly recounting the manoeuvre, declared that the devil must be on board the Philomel, or she could not be made to do what she did ! Later on Sulivan received the thanks of the Lords of the Admiralty for two years' blank returns of punishment. This was the secret of his method of disciphne : — " I fear too often blank returns show that offences that ought to be punished are not : it has not been the case with us, for I have only had one complaint made to me deserving punishment, the only case of drunkenness that has occurred in the ship. I did not like to go from my word, as I believe that the certainty the men felt that they would not be forgiven if reported for drunkenness or disrespect to an officer has been the means of preventing the necessity for punishment. While other ships complain of not being able to keep their boats' crews sober with officers in all the boats, we never send an officer with them, but trust entirely to the men, and have not yet had a case of drunkenness, and our men are now daily going on leave, and we have not yet had one man come off tipsy or a moment after his time." * When the Philomel returned to Monte Video, Oribe was encamped two miles outside the town, cutting it off from the country. But the defenders had so strengthened their lines that there was little chance of his getting in. The government of Buenos Ayres then proclaimed a blockade by sea as well as by land, and " Admiral " Brown, with a corvette, two brigs, and seven smaller vessels, was off Monte Video. On the score of there being so many Englishmen in the town. Commodore Purvis said he would not permit a blockade by sea, as this would have resulted in all foreign non-combatants being turned out to starve, nor would he allow any firing on the town from the * In a letter to the Hydrographer, Lieutenant Richards says, " We cannot be other than comfortable with Captain S. Indeed, his chief study is to make every one in the ship so." 1842-46.] ADMIRAL BROWN. 59 sea. One day Brown ran in with his fleet to the inner harbour, and took possession of an island, on which was a quantity of gunpowder belonging to British merchants. The FantSme and Philomel were ordered to go in close up to his ships. The Fantdme could not go in as close as the Philomel, which was therefore directly exposed to Brown's brig of fourteen guns, and his four vessels with two or three pivot-guns each. Brown was ordered to give up the powder, which he did, and he then ran out. Oribe a day or two after wrote a letter threatening to treat all the foreigners in Monte Video " as rebels and savages." The commodore demanded an explanation, and a guarantee for the lives and properties of British subjects. Before an answer came Brown ran in again to the inner harbour. The Fatitome having previously moved out, the Philomel alone remained close in. The British ships were cleared for action, but the others were three times as far off as the Philomel was ; so, had hostilities commenced, poor Philomel would have had to stand the first brunt of the action, and would probably have been sunk the first broadside. As Brown's vessels entered, Sulivan was told to go to the headmost vessel, order her out, and fire into her directly if she refused. He at once made her and the others lay-to. Brown had replied to a message from the commodore, " I am going in for fresh meat ; if the commodore wants me out, he must take me out by force." This put the commodore in a great rage. Ordering another signal to be made to prepare for action, he said he would see Brown himself, and went in the Philomel's boat with Sulivan on board Brown's vessel. What occurred is thus described by Sulivan : — " Brown was standing abaft a large skylight, with only room for one to pass between it and the bulwark, and, as the commodore was very excited, I slipped in first to get 6o THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. III. between them, and the following conversation then took place : — " Brown.— ' }i{ow de do, Captain Sulivan ? You don't look quite so much like a billy-goat as you did the last time I saw you.' (I had shaved my beard off since then.) " Commodore (putting a gold watch with chain and seals down on the skylight). — ' Mr. Brown, if you are not out of this in ten minutes, I will sink you.' " Brown. — ' Mister Brown, commodore ? I would have you to know that I am Brigadier-General Brown, and I hold a higher rank than you do.' " Sulivan. — ' No, no, admiral ; commodore and brigadier- general are the same rank.' " Brown. — ' Now, commodore, those people on shore are urging you on. Take my advice ; don't let them get you in a scrape. They will not care as long as their own ends are assured.' " Commodore. — ' I never got in a scrape in my life.' "Brown. — 'Then the more reason, commodore, you should not get in one now. Now, commodore, is it not hard that Garibaldi may come down here with his gun- boats and fire on my friends on shore, and I must not come in to prevent him ? ' " Commodore. — ' Well, I think it is hard.' " Brown. — ' Now, commodore, to please you, I will only wait to get some beef, and will go out by sunset ; but I hope you will prevent the gun-boats coming down here.' " Commodore (taking up the watch and putting it into his fob). — 'Well, I don't want you to go out to-night, if you will be out by nine to-morrow morning.' " Brown. — ' No, no, commodore, I will keep to my word and be out by sunset ' — which he was. " All this time I was putting in an occasional word in favour of a peaceful settlement of the dispute ; but if I had not got between them, I fear the commodore and the admiral would have come to fisticuffs. " Thus ended the battle of Rat Island. " Brown had said he would not give way to force ; and as he could not himself fire on the British flag, he would leave with the Englishmen on board the brig, and let the others defend their flag as long as they could." Brown admitted Oribe was in the wrong and must have written in a moment of passion. Later, Oribe wrote. 1842-46. AN ANXIOUS TIME. 6 1 saying he only meant that those foreigners who took up arms against him should be treated like others in arms. Sulivan and some other captains thought the explanation quite satisfactory ; but the commodore and one or two others were not of the same opinion, and demanded a more explicit refutation of the iirst letter. As previously mentioned, Sulivan was expecting his wife and three children to come out to Monte Video. They were to leave Falmouth by the March packet. Weeks went by after the date the vessel was due at Monte Video, but there was no news of her. Sulivan's anxiety was very great, especially as there had been a great storm. At length the packet leaving Falmouth a month later arrived, but brought no news of the missing ship. Sulivan used every morning to go up with his glass to the top of the cathedral tower to see if perchance she was in sight. The officers used to shake their heads and say, " There goes poor Sulivan again ; but it is of no use — the packet must be lost." At last, six weeks after her due time, Sulivan one day saw from the tower a packet with the agreed-upon signal. She had suffered in a gale, and had put into Madeira, and thus had been delayed. Once or twice while Mrs. Sulivan and her three children were living in Monte Video, on an alarm being given that the enemy were entering, all the English ladies went off to the ships. On one such occasion, all the rest having gone, my father said he would go to the walls first to make sure there was real necessity to fly, my mother in the meantime putting the children back in bed. After going to the ramparts, he returned to say he thought the enemy were not likely to get into the town. He was astonished at my mother's coolness in putting the children to bed again, but she showed she had done so with their clothes 62 THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. III. on. So they remained, the only English family who had not fled. They used to watch the cannonading from the flat top of the house, until one day, an old woman on the next roof to them being cut in two by a round-shot, this amusement was tabooed. Once my mother, having ridden outside the town, accompanied by my father and a French officer on foot, and skirmishing just then beginning, she induced them to take her nearer, until one of the enemy's cavalry suddenly fired at them, the ball going close between the two gentlemen. The party then bolted, followed by the man, loading and firing as often as he could. Then my mother's rides were restricted to the beach inside the town. One day, when she was riding ahead of my father, a cannon-ball struck the sand so close in front of her horse that the animal in his very next stride leapt the furrow it made. So her rides came to an end altogether ! The siege still went on. Food was scarce, money still more so. " Martin tells me they are almost starving in Monte Video. Cats three and sixpence apiece, and Parry's fat dog made into cutlets ! Many even of the best families are fed entirely by the daily rations of flour and beans given them by the government. It is a dreadful war, and the scenes daily going on are sufficient to make one hate the name of war for ever after. Neither side can do any- thing decisive, so the time is occupied by trying to shoot individuals. The three hundred dismounted Gauchos — who had scarcely ever moved half a mile on foot in their lives — are the finest body of men the Monte Videans have, and they have behaved uncommonly well on every occa- sion. The Italians also behaved well, having never given way." Prisoners were never taken, the lance or knife finishing all off.* What was the warfare of the elders may be ♦ From a letter written by B. J. S. from Paris, 1864: "In the train 1842-46.] SIEGE OF MONTE VIDEO. 63 imagined from the play of the children. A party of boys would divide themselves into two bands and act pursuers and pursued. Some of the pursued would fall down as if wounded, when it would be the aim of a pursuer to draw his finger across the throat of a fallen one without breaking his stride. On one occasion (the Monte Videan horses having been all killed by the enemy or by the butcher) a request was made that the merchants would lend their horses, so that a fair show of cavalry might be made at a review in the square. About a hundred and twenty mounted men were thus forthcoming. After a short parade these made a sortie on the merchants' horses by way of the beach ; passed the camp of the enemy, four thousand strong, two or three miles to the rear ; killed about sixty of the enemy's men ; then leisurely recrossed the river with about thirty horses and cattle that they had captured, and eight prisoners, brought in alive, besides two stands of colours. About September the Gorgon got badly ashore. By very great perseverance Captain Hotham at length got her off. Parties from all the men-of-war were sent to assist the Gorgon's crew in digging a channel for her through the sand. A great compliment was paid to the Philomel in a letter written by Captain Hotham to the admiral, requesting that the men sent from one vessel might be withdrawn in consequence of the trouble they gave, but begging that, as a party of men from the Philomel had shown such an excellent example of order and discipline to the others, an additional number of men from that ship . . one foreigner turned out to be from Monte Video. He was, when a boy of fifteen, under arms during the siege. Talking over old times, I mentioned the dreadful murder of the prisoners after one battle by Urquieza, the truth of which I was sent to inquire into. I found Colonel Flores in command, and all taken were lanced to death. The poor man was much affected ; the tears came in his eyes, and he said, ' Colonel Flores was my father.' Was it not a singular coincidence ? " 64 THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. HI. might be sent. This was done ; and after the Gorgon was off, Hotham applied for and obtained the promotion of one of the Philomel's petty officers. Not much surveying work could be done in the Plata, owing to the acute state of affairs ; but Sulivan did what he could, notwithstanding the difficulties he met with when landing men for obtaining provisions or making observa- tions on the coast of Colonia. On more than one occasion it was necessary for him to display great firmness in facing parties of soldiers who were trying to bully his seamen and some settlers. Lieutenant Harston left the Philomel,zx\A Doyle succeeded him as first lieutenant.* On October 26th, 1 844, the Philomel sailed again for the Falklands, Mrs. Sulivan and family going in her. The Philomel's surveying expedition had been well timed, for without it the combined fleets would have been at a serious disadvantage. On April 19th, 1845, the Philomel returned to Monte Video from the Falkland Islands. Sulivan, seeing the probability of our interfering in the local war, told Commodore Sir Thomas Paisley, to the astonishment of the latter, that he could, if necessary, take the steamers Gorgon and Firebrand up to Martin Garcia. Up to July Sulivan was occupied in finishing his Falk- land Island charts, and in adding to the survey of the Plata. In August 1845 he found a channel of fifteen feet, mean river-level, to Martin Garcia. * Harston — now Captain H. — was appointed to a ship on the west coast of Africa. Later on, when every ofBcer and man in her was struck down by fever, he himself being the only one able just to crawl on deck, he shipped a lot of the Krue boys, and with them brought the ship to England in that state — a meritorious performance. Sulivan wrote of him : " A correct, gentlemanly officer, setting all a good example, particularly in his method with the men and internal discipline." 1842-46.] BRITISH AND FRENCH INTERVENTION, 65 On August 28th active operations were commenced by the combined British and French squadrons operating on the coasts of the Banda Oriental. Mrs. Sulivan, with her children, returned to England. At Colonia the ships had an engagement with the enemy outside Monte Video. The latter were driven off by the men of the fleet and the Monte Videan troops who landed there. They then repaired the lines, so that the Monte Videans might hold them. Sulivan, having taken a good share in this encounter, then went across to Buenos Ayres, and was well received by the Argentine minister there. "This very singular state of affairs," he writes to Beaufort, is " owing to its being understood that we are not at war with Buenos Ayres, but only want to turn their troops out of the Banda Oriental. Yet we take their vessels-of-war, and give them up to the Monte Videan Government to be employed in direct warfare against the Buenos Ayrean coasts. If this is not a hostile act, I cannot think what is." Sulivan then took the Gorgon and Firebrand up to Martin Garcia without touching the ground, except once where it was necessary to drag the Gorgon over the bar, there being some inches less water than she drew.* The British and French admirals, with some of the ships, remained off Monte Video, a few of the smaller vessels being sent on an expedition to open the Parana. Captain Hotham, who commanded this detached British squadron, * Captain Bingham, of H.M.S. Acorn, had gone as far up the Uruguay as Rincon Gallinos, and had to remain there to protect seven hundred refugees, placed on the island of Viscano. He was the senior com- mander, and by this lost his chance of service in the Parana. Though the service he performed was arduous, and he was frequently engaged, he was not promoted. The master of the Acorn, Mr. Thomas Goss, had surveyed the river for nine miles. The plan of holding the Rincon, and getting a supply of cattle from it for the fleet and for Monte Video, had been proposed by Sulivan to the minister and the admiral. 66 THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. III. determined first to take a force up the Uruguay, to assist the escape of other colonists reported to be hiding. The vessels taken were the Gorgon (s.), the Philomel, Dolphin, and Fanny. They were joined at the Rio Negro by the Buenos Ayrean squadron under Garibaldi — " a regular mosquito fleet of twenty, from a sixteen-gun brig to a whale-boat, little more than a party of buccaneers.'' It had been supposed that no vessel of more than twelve feet could proceed for more than a few miles up the river, and the enemy had sunk vessels in the regular channels. But Sulivan found other deeper ones, up which he took the ships to within six miles of Paysandu. He had hard work to accomplish this, constantly going ahead in a boat to sound. Once, when the Philomel was ahead alone, a party of fifteen hostile cavalry rode along the bank watching her. Sulivan could easily have knocked them over ; but, desirous of avoiding needless slaughter, he, instead of firing, waved his cap to them. They returned the salutation and laughed, seeming to enjoy the fun, and rode by the ship for some distance, till, coming to a point, they galloped on a little way and dismounted, as Sulivan noticed afterwards, the off side, and stood apparently leaning over the backs of the horses. As the ship came abreast of them, they fired a volley at Sulivan, who was conning the ship from the forecastle. The shot rattled round him, but he fortunately escaped unhurt. The men instantly sprang upon their horses, Gaucho fashion, lying concealed along the farther side, and quickly disappeared over a ridge. Sulivan writes : — " The Monte Videans required as much Watching as the enemy " ; but adds : " I am happy to say that a few days since Garibaldi surprised a town on the Buenos Ayrean side of the river in the night, and took every soul in it, and, so far from putting any to death, he gave them their 1842-46.] GARIBALDI. 67 liberty again when he left, merely putting a forced requisi- tion of clothing on the place. Yet in that very town some years since, Garibaldi, when a prisoner, was tortured by being hung up to a tree for two hours by his thumbs, and then by one arm." On nearing Paysandu, the Monte Videans, finding that even with the British force they would be far outnumbered by the enemy, refrained from attacking the place. The enemy had seven hundred infantry and one thousand cavalry ; the Monte Videans three hundred men and our one hundred and seventy blue-jackets. The ships' guns were ineffectual, owing to the position of the town. Garibaldi then moved his force higher up the river, being escorted past the town by the Philomel and Dolphin, which then returned with the two other British ships. The river having fallen, Sulivan had great difficulty in piloting them down again. But he safely accomplished the task, and the ships joined the rest of the squadron at Martin Garcia. Thus ended Sulivan's service with Garibaldi, whom he singularly resembled in appearance. The squadron destined for the Parana then assembled near Martin Garcia. In October, owing to the breakdown in health of his excellent surgeon Dr. Chartres, Sulivan had to run the Philomel to Buenos Ayres. This led to an incident he always looked upon as a providential interposition, a number of circumstances all combining to save the lives of about twenty-five persons. After landing Chartres, Sulivan was delayed two days by his own indisposition. A foul wind drove him to Colonia. Seeing signs of an ap- proaching gale, he anchored near the mouth of the St. John, the coast of which he had surveyed two years previously. A small schooner lay near him. A gale came on of such force that the Philomel scarcely rode it out with three 68 THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. III. anchors down. Next day nothing could be seen of the schooner, even from the mast-head. The wind moderating in the afternoon, the Philomel proceeded. One of the officers asked Sulivan if such a spot was not the creek they had surveyed. "No, that one," he replied, point- ing his glass at St. John's. To his astonishment, in the field of the telescope appeared the schooner's masts, with a reversed ensign. She was inside the breakers at the bar of a river in the enemy's district. Sulivan knew if the Blancos had got the crew, they would all have been murdered. As they got nearer, soldiers were seen on the beach, about seventy yards from her, firing at her. There was a bank of hard sand which Sulivan did not at first like to cross, but, seeing horsemen in the water a few yards from the schooner, and some armed men getting into a launch about two hundred yards from her, he went at the bank, estimating after the gale there would be just water enough for the Philomel. The launch was by this time close to the schooner. Another minute, and it would be too late to save the people. A thirty-two- pounder gun on the Philomel's forecastle being already loaded, Sulivan gave it all the elevation possible, and fired a chance shot. The ball passed directly over the boat, and hit one of the horsemen full in the chest. At the same moment the crew of the schooner poured a volley into the boat, now alongside. The double incident so frightened the Blancos that they retired. When within half a mile, Sulivan and Richards took the boats, and, crossing the bar, came to the schooner, the forty Blancos in sight not venturing to fire again. On board were fifteen men, five women, and four children. The schooner, breaking adrift in the gale, had been driven over the bar, but had brought up in the smoother water. She had been early discovered by the Blancos, who for 1842-46.J RESCUE OF WOMEN AND CHILDREN. 69 seven hours had been firing at the people and telling them their throats would all be cut. Having only a few cartridges, the crew reserved their fire. The poor people had been all day watching the Philomel's masts, hoping for succour, and had given up all hope when the Blancos discovered the launch, it fortunately having been overlooked previously. Then they saw the Philomels signal of assist- ance. Besides some soldiers' wives, the wife of the com- mandant at Martin Garcia was on board. Too sea-sick to remain below, she had lain all day on the deck, pro- tected by a few boxes from the shot. One strapping woman had shown great spirit, and had collected a pile of stones from the ballast with which to greet the launch. The schooner was hauled out, and she returned to Colonia, the Philomel taking the women and children on to Martin Garcia. The captain's cabin was given up to them, and they received the first food they had tasted for twenty- four hours. The rescue could not have been attempted but for Sulivan's previous survey. He wrote : " It is the most gratifying thing to me that has occurred." The Philomel then joined the squadrons at Martin Garcia, and the vessels prepared for the ascent of the Parana. " I am afraid," he writes to his father from the entrance to the river (November 4th, 1845), "what Captain Villio told you will have made you very anxious, but you will know how little there was to do at Martin Garcia or anywhere yet. Rosas knew that if he left a force in Martin Garcia it must be captured, so he took all the guns up to the point in the river where he is going to dispute the passage. I expect we shall have some sharp work there. We know of about twenty heavy guns and nearly three thousand men of all arms. This sounds very formidable, we having only a hundred and fifty marines, a hundred and eighty English and a hundred and eighty French seamen. It seems a serious thing to have to land and destroy their 70 THE PARANA CAMPAIGN. [Ch. III. guns ; but it must be done, or the river navigation will not be safe. Certainly I think the authorities at Monte Video have a very serious responsibility resting on them. They know the force there, and yet with six hundred English .soldiers and two hundred and fifty marines at their disposal they send only seventy marines, Hotham having suggested at least a hundred. They ought to have sent the two hundred and fifty, and then we should have three hundred marines. They seem to think they want all the force to take care of themselves at Monte Video, forgetting what a serious thing any reverse up the river would be. I do not fear such a thing, but they ought to guard against the possibility of it, as they have the means. How the Admiralty can have acted as they have done, knowing the chance of hostilities, I cannot think. Captain Villio's note to you shows they expect it ; yet for shallow rivers the only steam-vessels we have are two of the largest steamers in the service, drawing sixteen and seventeen feet (seven- teen and three-quarters feet water) ; not a single store or munition of war have they sent out. The ships are even short of their usual Pease powder and shot, and there is not a single Congreve rocket in the squadron, though a few would be just the thing for this kind of warfare. The only field-piece we have to land (except one three-pounder I got and one Hope got from the Monte Videans) is one six- pounder ; and the whole supply of conical case-shot for that is twenty rounds, and not one shrapnel-shell. So much the authorities have provided for our doing the work efficiently. I hope they do not despise their enemies, for these people have during the last two years shown such courage and performed such acts of gallantry as have never been excelled." CHAPTER IV. THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. 1845-46. On November 8th the combined British and French squad- rons — composed of the ships mentioned at foot * — started on their expedition up the river. The wind was fair. The British squadron, led by the Philomel, composed the " port," the French, led by the San Martin, the " starboard " division. Owing to the strong current and the occasional grounding of ships, they only made forty miles the first day, and did not reach the ground suitable for exercising the landing-parties. So the next morning, as the wind was then foul, the Firebrand took the Philomel and Fanny in tow, to go on in search of a proper place. This done, on the nth the training began. While the French sailors Gorgon (paddle-steamer) Firebrand (p.s.) Philomel Comus . Dolphin Fanny ^ (schooner) San Martin ' . Fulton (p.s.) . Expeditive Pandour Procida British. Tons. Guns. nil 6 Capt. C. Hotham. 1 190 6 Capt. J. Hope. 428 8 Com. B. J. Sulivan. 492 18 Act. Com. E. A. Inglefield. 318 3 Lieut. R. Levinge. — I Lieut. A. C. Key. French. 200 8 Capt. Tr6houart. , 650 2 Lieut. Mazferes. — 16 Lieut. De Miniac. — 10 liieut. Du Paie. — 4 Lieut. De la Riviere. ' Taken from Brown's squadron. 71 72 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. were properly drilled to act on land, there was no such system in the English service, as may be imagined from the following description of the men who were shortly wanted to face large bodies of trained troops. It was only the simplest evolutions that were required of them, yet they were ignorant even of these. Sulivan had to hold some of the lieutenants before he could get them to understand that, as pivot-men when wheeling in Hne, they must stand still. Of one ship's company, it was discovered not one man had been taught to use a musket. The officers and men of this large ship's company showed such utter ignorance of soldiering, that, fearing a mistake on their part in action might endanger the whole party, it was decided to do without them, there not being thought to be sufficient time to train them. However, a young officer. Lieutenant Brickdale, a supernumerary on board the ship, asked Sulivan to be allowed to try what he could do with the men. Leave being given him, he took the men out of sight of the others, and so drilled them in one week that it was thought well to allow them to join the rest. To continue with the journals : — " ' Philomel,' forty-five miles up the Parana, "November \2th, 1845. " The men really make a good show. The orders for landing, etc., came out last night. Marines, commanded by Captain Hurdle, form one column on the right — the seamen-battalion, under Captain Hotham, one column on the left. The companies of seamen commanded by Lieutenants Woodley, Barker, Levinge, and Brickdale. The Philomel's party, commanded by Commander Sulivan and Lieutenant Doyle, will form in front, and precede the columns as skirmishers. The French have been drilling apart from us, but to-morrow we all land together. It is ' very singular that in the Uruguay, at the mouth of the Parana, we had not one mosquito, and that the moment we enter this river we find them swarming, yet there is very little difference in the land on the banks of the river. 1845-46.] SAILORS AT DRILL. 73 Even among the islands in the Uruguay we had not one. Is it not a singular thing that all the captains of our squadron are collegians — Hotham, Hope, Inglefield, myself, also Lieutenant Key ? The latter got the first medal, and afterwards won his commission at the New System College. It is astonishing how the few days' drill has got the men on. The naval battalion to-day ' marched past,' and went through all the exercises uncommonly well, and the ' light company ' were complimented on their exercise. The officers have been laughing at Doyle being such a good light-infantry man, he being about the heaviest in the field ; and our ' double quick ' to-day, and the constant four hours' work, with frequent runs to get into our rallying square, has quite knocked him up. We all feel the benefit of this daily exercise after being cooped up so long, but the weather is getting very warm. We are to go on on Monday. I do hope the Fulton will arrive first, as there is still a probability that she may bring news of peace ; and however well we may succeed, it would be very sad to think that we had any loss of life that was not necessary to gain our object. But the desire to open the trade of this river will, I fear, prevent the ministers coming to any terms with Rosas, until they have by force passed up the river." " Obligado, Rio Parana, ^' November 2'^rdf 1845. " Through the merciful providence of God I have been preserved through scenes of bloodshed while many have been called away. I can only give you a short account of it, as the letters must be closed to-night. We reached our anchorage two miles below this on the i8th (my birthday). We saw the batteries prepared to dispute our passage. They were certainly more formidable than we anticipated, and were beautifully built : parapets twelve feet thick (some more), of rammed clay — the position excellent, a slight bend enabling them to fire both right down and across the river. We reached the place too late to do anything on the 1 8th. The boats were all sent early that day to bring some enemy's vessels from under the land ; but on getting near, they were found to be two miles up a narrow creek, close under high land, with a force posted along the cliffs all the way, and out of reach of the ships' guns. Richards, with two of our gigs, and a French lieutenant, in his boat, 74 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [CH. IV. going near the mouth to examine, were fired on, and one Frenchman was wounded. Two shots came into our gig close to young Steveley, who was steering her. The officers all agreed that it would not be right to risk the loss they must have met with to destroy a few little boats (for they were nothing more), and very prudently returned, Scale of Yards ? 5°° lOpO Q A A u 1 ^ 1 Q ^ 1 Cormlli \ f / BEPUBUICANO OF S GUNS ^%. ''"-;z:-o-.r, ^ ^GUN BOATS (iau«EACHj ..-• ■■■J^isiLan 's track between ' VVtoft-- ../^ f oBS^f / forts 1 & 2 DOLPBlNjl ( i ^OOd // SANMART,N# B^\ ■'■~Y COMUS^ PANDOUR^ SAN MARTrN* Y>i + DOLPHIN w FULTON -i* fire;srandj4 ll/ GORGON O \^r- . „ ^' STEAMERS \ PHILOMEJ. \ (ILongBrass SG pdr. 2 Long Brass 32 pds. 2Loi}gBrass18pcls. ^,7 Short 18 pds. iJ; „ „ 32 „ 2h .. .. 24 ]4 ,, ,, 24pds. 3 Long Iron 18 U RocMei Tube • 3 2Longlron „ „ 4 Field Pieces in the 4FieldPieces Wood. iValker & Bontaltsc. PLAN OF OBLIGADO. much to my delight, as I saw the position from our mast- head, and thought it useless to attempt it. " On the night of the 1 8th I went with a French officer. Lieutenant Mazferes (each in our own boat with muffied oars), and sounded close up to the chain and batteries, without being discovered, though we heard them talking on shore. Then a man in the French boat, who interpreted for us, whispered to me, ' The captain thinks it time to be 1845-46.] ENGAGING THE BATTERIES. 75 off.' I quite coincided, particularly as several lights were shown, and I expected a shower of shot on us. The next day was spent in reconnoitring and planning the attack. I was given command of the left division, and was to lead it —the heaviest vessels {San Martin, Comus, and Pandour) being intended to be more abreast of the batteries, while Dolphin was with them to attack the enemy's vessel. It was not supposed that many guns would bear toward the left division, and we should, we thought, rake the batteries, except No. i. We were therefore to go first, so as to cover the right division in taking their positions. On the morning of the 20th there was a fog with a light breeze ; and as the current, of three or four knots, was against us, we could not go on. At eight it cleared ; and thinking there was wind enough, Hotham made the Philomel's signal to weigh. Trehouart had very handsomely ordered the two commanders of the French vessels in my division to put themselves under my orders, as if theirs were English ships. Hotham had also put our ships of the right division under Trehouart, who was in San Martin. When we weighed, the ExpMitive could not get on, and anchored again, which obliged me to wait for her. She soon came on, and we proceeded. Procida was close to me — Fanny, ExpMitive, just astern ; but we only got over the ground about half a mile an hour, so light was the wind and strong the stream. As v/e got near, I saw Nos. i, 2, 3, batteries could point all the guns at us, and we saw them turning them towards us. I confess I wished all the other ships were up to share it ; but the right division were some way astern, except Dolphin (Levinge), who, being anchored farther up, did not wait for her division, but weighed as soon as we came abreast of her, and ran up the middle of the river. Levinge's doing so saved us from a dreadful loss. We had got within three or four hundred yards of our station, only just making headway against the stream, when a thirty-two-pounder in No. i fired at us (9.50 a.m.). The shot passed inside our rigging, a few feet above the ship, and cut the ensign halliards and brought down our ensign ; it was soon rehoisted, and we fired one of our bow-guns in return (we had two on the topgallant fore- castle), and the next moment every gun opened on us, and a hail of shot and rockets flew past us, all either a few feet over or on one side. As young Steveley described it, they were like large cricket-balls passing us. I had just been •j6 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. forward to fire a shell with the starboard bow-gun, to try the range, and then had gone aft to look to the steering (as we had to anchor by bearings as a guide to the others), when I saw a crash on the forecastle. A large shot flew past my head (we were standing straight for the batteries), and I saw poor Doyle (who had gone to fire the gun I had just fired before) fall back, and roll nearly off the forecastle, while two or three other men were knocked down. A shot had come through the gun-carriage and slide, knocking them in pieces, and the iron splinters caused all the damage. I thought Doyle was killed, but was soon told he was only dreadfully wounded. The shots still came close past, and in a minute the fore-topmast was cut more than half through (the only shot that went high), and we were obliged to lower the fore-topsail below the wound, and at the same moment the main topsail-tye was shot away, and down came the main-topsail, and she began to drop astern, so we let go the anchor about three hundred yards short of our position. In another moment two more shots came through our starboard bow. Just as I was going up on the forecastle to see what damage was done to the gun, one shot came through under the forecastle, and knocked a fowl- coop to pieces, the splinters and iron bars flying past in a way I cannot describe, and knocking down two or three more men. Our deck aft to the wheel was covered with splinters of wood and iron. We then got two more guns through our bow-ports under the forecastle. But all this ■ that I have described took place in less then ten minutes, and was only the first burst of the batteries. And beauti- fully the enemy fired ; they had placed targets to practise at before, and so knew the range exactly. The vessels in my division anchored at the same time ; but trying to get their broadsides to bear across such a strong tide, were all swept away back some distance, except Fanny, with Key, who kept close to us. At this time the only other vessel up was Dolphin ; and she, not getting the first burst, stood on, till, seeing her nearer and more abreast of them than we were, the enemy turned every gun at her, except two of the No. I battery. Had not Levinge been up, I am con- vinced we should have suffered dreadfully. At this time there was not a steamer within a mile of us. But poor Levinge soon began to receive the same treatment as we had, with this difference, that it lasted longer with him, for he went on till all his ropes and sails were cut away, and 1845-46.] HOW THE FRENCH FOUGHT. "JJ then anchored, as he could get no nearer. He was exposed within six hundred yards to the fire of every gun, the only return to which was from her three guns, three bow- guns of Philomel, and one of Fanny. In another quarter of an hour, Tr^houart, in the San Martin, came up, and got ahead of Levinge, taking all the weight of the fire off Dolphin ; but by that time the latter had been ter- ribly handled, having nineteen men killed and wounded. The same treatment was then given to the French brig. The San Martin's sails were rapidly disabled, but she had nearly shot the short distance to her station when her anchor was let go by a shot cutting the stoppers. Conius, following, had been able to reach her station near San Martin, where her broadside of heavy carronades would have been most effective ; but trying to use a stern-anchor as a spring, she drifted back, and brought up outside Dolphin in an exposed but less effective broadside position. San Martin was thus left unsupported in her advanced position, as Pandour had brought up near her station, below the intended position of Camus. When we consider that she was a small brig of about two hundred tons, we may safely assert that no vessel of her size was — few even of any size were — ever exposed to such a trial, and certainly one never behaved more nobly. On her beam, at a distance of six hundred yards, she had a large share of the fire from the three first batteries ; on her port bow, the nearly raking fire of the seven guns of No. 4, at six hundred yards' range ; and, nearly ahead, the raking fire of the eight guns of the Republicano and gun-boats. Some idea of the severity of this fire may be had from the following facts : On the port bow, between her figure-head and cat-head, she was struck by thirty-six round-shot. The three shell- guns on her broadside, as well as the bow eighteen-pounders, had been rapidly disabled ; and on shifting one over from the other side, three men who tried to fire it were killed in succession before doing so ; and before another could fire it, it was dismounted, as were the other two guns shortly after they were shifted over. She was thus rendered a passive target for the enemy's guns. Yet she kept her station ! Her cable being shot away, she drifted down a little, but again brought up in a good position. Though the other vessels were by that time coming up and opening their fire, and the steady fire of Dolphin, Philomel, and Fanny was evidently beginning to' slacken the fire of the 78 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. batteries, yet they poured such a fire into poor Tr6houart that his vessel became a complete wreck, with forty-four out of his one hundred men killed and wounded. The other vessels could not all get up to good positions, the wind getting so light.* But the steamers about this time came up, and began to throw their heavy shot and shell ; and the French steamer went right on to support her senior officer, and took a very good position, by which she received much damage. Fearing damage to the machinery, it had not been intended that the steamers should go close until the chain was cut, when they were to pass the chain, and flank the batteries from above. But the signal being made by Tr^houart that she was to support him, the French steamer {Fulton) went right up in the thick of it near the chain. The cause of the damage to the leading ships was the lightness of the wind, which prevented all getting up to their stations, so that the batteries could take each in detail ; and what we had for a few minutes Levinge had for much longer, and the French brig for still longer. But her greater loss is to be partly attributed to this : she was old Admiral Brown's brig, which we had seized with other of Rosas' vessels at Monte Video ; and seeing their old vessel brought against them, it made them pick her out for a more particular share of their favours. I confess, when I saw Dolphin and ourselves under such a heavy fire, and then the French brig and our ships coming up one by one, and also observing the beautiful way the batteries fired, I began to fear we should not pass. About 1 1.30 the crew of the Republicano deserted her in the gun-boats, and, having set fire to her, went to add to the strength of the seamen in No. 4 battery, which, from its high parapet and its position, had scarcely suffered any damage. But No. 3 was nearly silenced, and the field- guns had been withdrawn, but were placed in other positions in the wood. Several guns in Nos. i and 2 were also silenced, but the remainder were worked as gallantly and as coolly as ever. The cross-fire on these batteries repeatedly cleared the men from the guns, but they were as quickly replaced. Carts full of dead or wounded men could be seen constantly passing to the rear of the woods. One small body of infantry appeared to be retreating, but were * At 10.50 the enemy let loose ten fire-vessels, but they drifted past the ships without doing any harm. 1845-46.] CUTTING THE CHAINS. 79 driven back by cavalry. From the shot and shell that passed over the batteries, sweeping the ground in their rear, the slaughter amongst the troops there was also great. But we saw large bodies of cavalry and infantry retreating a little inland, and the batteries were evidently not fully manned. The enemy certainly behaved well ; and one man in a white waistcoat was most conspicuous on No. i battery, directing the guns, standing on the parapet while the shot ploughed up the clay round him ; yet he remained unhurt to the last, and was the admiration of all. But I am sorry to say we afterwards heard he was old Brown's son ;* yet, though born of English parents in Buenos Ayres, he is, according to Sir Robert Peel's late decision, a Buenos Ayrean, and therefore, I suppose, has a right to fight us. The other battery that held out so well was commanded by Thorn, an American, and worked by seamen, many of whom were English ; and some we have found wounded. But they said if they refused to serve they would have had their throats cut ! "But to proceed. About noon, having repaired our rigging a little, a light breeze enabled us to weigh and get closer. During the rest of the action only an occasional gun was fired at us, and our hull was never struck again. About a quarter past twelve the Republicano blew up. But the boats of the San Martin and Dolphin were destroyed, and they had suffered so much that they could not attempt to cut the chains, on which all now depended. So Captain Hope volunteered to do it. With three boats (calling at Dolphin for the armourers, who had previously practised chain-cutting) he pulled for the chain, about the seventh or eighth vessel from the island, and within five hundred yards of the batteries. In a moment there were three sets of saws at work, — one with Captain Hope cutting through the four cables on the deck of one of the vessels ; the others with Lieutenant Webb, Mr. Nicholson (mate of Dolphin), and Mr. Commerell (midshipman), cutting the six riding-cables of three vessels, the boats' crews in the boats being sheltered by the vessels' hulls. The whole fire of the batteries appeared to be directed on the small clusters of men on the vessels' decks. Yet, though round- and grape- * Afterwards understood to be Colonel Rodriguez; but Colonel Thorn's son has lately claimed the honour for his father. See page 91. 8o THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV shot were driving splinters from the spars and decks on which they stood, not one man was touched, and in four minutes the ten chain-cables had been sawn through, and three vessels swung out of the line, leaving a gap nearly a hundred yards wide. From prisoners we learnt that the general had ridden to the batteries, and offered fifty ounces (;^200) to the men of any gun that would knock Captain Hope down — his tall figure (six feet two inches), stand- ing by the working-parties, making him a conspicuous object. " The Fulton had before this fired away all her shot and shell, and, like San Martin, had become only an unresisting target for the enemy. As soon as the passage was made, the French steamer went through, and soon after Firebrand and Gorgon ; then for the first time the two latter were under fire, but there were only a few guns then firing, and they received no loss, only one or two shots and rockets hitting them. Their position above now enabled them to rake the batteries. Soon after Hotham made the signal for the armed boats to go to Gorgon, and we all shoved off — Richards and young Sulivan * going with our party, besides myself, leaving Fegan and Brown on board, with men enough to work two guns. When the boats were pulling past the chain to go to Gorgon, they fired at them with grape-shot from No. 4, but did not hit any one. When I got on board, I found Hotham in great doubt about land- ing. We knew there had been at least three thousand men on shore, and we did not then know how much execution our fire had done ; but Hotham evidently felt that the thing would be only half done if the guns were not destroyed. Hope had been to the French commandant, who said he was so cut up he could not spare any men ; but if Hotham landed, as he was then coming up with two French vessels (into one of which he had shifted), he would lay them close to the batteries to cover us. Hotham asked for my opinion. I felt so much the uncertainty and the responsibility of it, also that if we failed it would give the enemy a victory ; and if we left it undone, we should not really succeed in our intentions. What between the anxiety to land, and the fear of the advantage it would give Rosas if he prevented our landing, I hardly knew what to say, and for the first time I said 1 would rather not give an opinion, * The late Captain W. Sulivan, his first cousin. 1845-46.] TAKING THE BATTERIES. 8 1 but if he decided on going I should be very glad to go. Hope had previously asked to go also if we landed, though it was intended he should command afloat. Hope and Captain Hurdle of the marines had, I believe, been in favour of landing. Hotham in a few minutes determined to land, and bring it to a decisive issue.* The batteries being flanked by woods, made it impossible to know what force they had there. And as No. 4 battery was then firing guns, in spite of some beautiful shots thrown into it, and as our force was reduced by the absence of the French, and the killed and the wounded of the English, Hotham certainly deserves every praise for his determina- tion to try and carry the batteries when there was so much doubt about it. The principal battery being No. i, it was determined to attack that first, as Nos. 2 and 3 were close down, and the ships could destroy them at any time. We landed under these. While we were coming on shore and forming up, they fired one or two shots from No. 4 at us ; but we were so close under they could not depress the guns enough to hit us. I then spiked some of the guns in No. 2,t but unfortunately forgot to haul down the large flag with all Rosas' mottoes, though I was close to the staff. When formed, we moved up towards No. i, which is on a steep slope forty feet high. (I have marked in dots the way we went up.) I had to lead with a company of sea- men under Lieutenant Key of Gorgon, and the coverers of the Philomel under Lieutenant Richards, who were the battery party. Key went round, while we went right up the slope, both arriving in the battery at the same moment. There was not a soul in it, but a number of bodies dreadfully mutilated by our shot. One of our men hauled the flag down. We had scarcely shown ourselves when a sharp fire of musketry was opened on us from the trees within fifty yards, though we did not see a man. It is perfectly wonderful numbers of us were not struck ; but they fired high. We poured a heavy fire into the wood, and in a * 180 seamen and 145 marines were landed. Trghouart, in spite of his disabled state, managed after all to land a party of French seamen to assist our men. t Whilst the men were forming on the beach, he went alone into No. 2 battery, which was open to the rear, and spiked five of the guns, under a heavy musketry iire from the enemy. But with the sixth the spike bent, but would not break ; so, after hitting it several times, the balls rattling round him, he jumped over the parapet unhurt. In later years this action would doubtless have won for him the Victoria Cross. — Ed. 6 82 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. minute or two their fire ceased. Before the marines, who were close behind us, could get up it was all over. Key's men then lined the wood, as ordered, while we laid "down our arms and commenced trying to break the guns' trunnions. I first spiked the gun that had fired the most at us, and that had done so much injury to Doyle and others (myself and Richards, with two men, had a hammer and a bag of spikes each for this purpose). It was a beautiful brass thirty-two-pounder, richly ornamented. I hope to show it to you one day mounted in some public place at home. We had just spiked them all, and the men were trying to break the trunnions off, when just at the flag-staff I saw one of our men, as I thought, examining one of the dead bodies, and told him to come away, when, to my surprise and grief, I found it was poor Pollyblank, my coxswain, who had been close to me as we reached the top of the slope, and must have been killed at that moment. He was shot through the head, and only breathed slightly for an hour, dying as we returned to the ship. You may easily imagine what my feelings were. However, there was not much time to think of it further than what a mercy it was that his was the only life lost, for the balls whistled as close past our heads as possible. During this time there was some sharp firing in the wood, where Hope had two companies of seamen. He had entered the battery while we were firing, while the marines stood across the rear of the battery to hold it till we could dismount the guns. This we soon did, but could not break off their trunnions (I am now glad of it, as we have them on board safe as trophies). Out of six only two were serviceable, the carriages of the others being hit by shot. One gun was much dented in by a shot ; all but one were struck and slightly dented in. The parapet was scored up, and the rocket-tube had two shots through it. I should think every gun and carriage averaged three shot each that had struck. And when it is considered that we were at first nine hundred yards, or perhaps a thousand, off, and never nearer than five hundred, and that the battery was forty feet above us, it will show how beautifully we fired : there was not much difference in any ship. The French fired well also ; in fact, their countrymen may well be proud of their behaviour altogether. With half the number of men we had, they lost about twice as many ; but their loss was nearly all in San Martin. i45-46.] CASUALTIES. 83 British. French (450 men). Gorgon Firebrand (s.) Philomel Comus Dolphin Fanny Killed. Wounded. ... 3 1 ... I 1 ... 6 2 ... 2 5 ••. 14 O ... I San Martin . Expeditive . Pandowr Fulton Procida Killed. . 10 2 2 I Wounded ... 25 ... 4 ... 10 ... 6 9 .. 27 IS ... 45 " The French had four hundred and fifty men altogether, and their killed and wounded were sixty, or one in seven and a half Our loss fell on Dolphin, Comus, and Philomel, they having between them thirty killed and wounded, out of the thirty-six. Now these three ships had only two hundred and forty men in them, so that the loss in them was one in eight, very nearly the same as the French. Even San Martin did not lose many more than Dolphin in propor- tion ; she had thirty-five killed and wounded out of a hun- dred, and Dolphin had eighteen out of fifty-eight ; so there is not a great difference. It is singular that in such a severe contest there is not one marine killed or wounded, the whole of the marines from the ships having been sent to the steamers beforehand to be ready to land. The steamers were under fire only a few minutes in passing the chain, and that from only one or two guns ; and when the landing took place, the skirmish in the fort was over before the marines could get up. " Perhaps I should add, as you will all be pleased with it, that when I went to Hotham, after the heat of the action was over, before the chain was cut, to suggest some- thing to him about the position of one of the ships, he told me before all hands on Gorgon's quarter-deck that the way Philomel behaved was the admiration of every one. However, I cannot help giving first place (of the English) to Dolphin. The other most meritorious points were Hope's cutting the chains in the manner he did, and Hotham's determination to land and decide the thing at once, rather than risk the chance of their saying we had not entirely succeeded. Then the gallant way in whicH the enemy fought at first ! They certainly gained great advantage by the damage they did to Dolphin and San Martin. This would have enabled them to make out a pretty good story, but for our decisive success in landing. 84 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. When we think that our loss in landing was only two killed and three wounded, it certainly was most fortunate and creditable to Hotham that he decided to try it. I forgot to say that, not liking to separate our forces, we only dis- abled Nos. I, 2, and 3 batteries by dark, while their flag was flying in No. 4, and there was a skirmish going on between our boat-guards and men in the wood round No. 4. It was there the Gorgon's man was wounded. One of our boys (Payne) shot one man who was in the act of firing at him. We killed and wounded several by our first fire in the skirmish at No. i battery, and found them in the wood as our light company advanced. " I must give you particulars of PJulomel's loss. Con- sidering the position we were in, and that on board Gorgon the officers say that the shot rained round us so the first few minutes that they thought we must be sunk, it is indeed a most merciful interposition of Providence that prevented our loss being greater. The only man killed was Pollyblank, my coxswain. Poor Doyle, though, is, I fear, mortally wounded. The fragments of a large cast- iron plate in the gun-carriage entered his side and left thigh in three places, fracturing his hip-bone, while another entered and broke his arm, and another smashed his hand ; so that if he survives the dreadful wound in the hip (which the doctors think impossible), he must lose his arm. He behaved nobly when told they were deserting the batteries ; he cheered as he lay in such agony ; and when the fire slackened, and I went below for a moment to see him, he asked if we were driving them out, and seemed delighted when I told him we were. The poor fellow then said he had just been thinking how much better it was for him to be hit than me, as he had no one depending on him, as I had. This was too much for me, and I think I never felt more grief than I did at that moment. To see him so mangled and bleeding, and, as we thought, dying fast, and yet thinking of others ! It really showed a noble spirit. " I believe the enemy will never make a stand again, this has been such a lesson to them. But it is dreadful to think of the carnage ! In the Httle space we have walked about in close to the shore, there are above a hundred dead bodies, all most dreadfully cut to pieces by round- shot ; for it is a most singular thing that, notwithstanding the number of shells fired, few men have been killed by 1845-46.] THE enemy's brave STAND. 85 their bursting (I could only see one), while both men and horses have been killed by the shot or shell before it burst. Every hut has its proportion of dead, and we hear at first they took numbers away in carts, to prevent others being disheartened. We saw cavalry outside trying to force infantry back ; and in one case an officer on horseback tried to send a party of infantry back into the wood, and they shot him and marched on. Every day we have found poor wounded wretches in the wood still alive. To-day three were found who had lain three days with limbs off, and yet alive : they have had their limbs amputated since. I fear that in the large wood numbers are still actually dying of starvation, being unable to move on account of their wounds. There are men of all nations among the wounded : we find English, Americans, Spaniards, Russians, etc., and a number of poor blacks. I trust I may never again have to enact a part in such a scene ; and yet I am astonished with myself, and rather disgusted at my want of feeling, that the second day I found myself moving among these bodies as unconcerned as if they were not human beings, and examining the effects of our shot. Yet when I thought how many my own hand might have put to death, it certainly made me shudder ; for, as we changed our charge of powder with our distance, and the shots were not so good, I fired several myself to get the range. In fact, I fired so many that I wore off the skin of my fingers by pulling the trigger-line, because I saw it was of the utmost importance to fire so as to make them fear every shot. Sometimes we cleared the battery, when a few men would come, fire one or two guns, and either be killed or leave ; but their places would be again supplied by others. Yet, with such slaughter, old Brown's son could stand nearly the whole time on the parapet without being hit. Sometimes he went and laid the gun, and whenever he did a shot went into something or another. Both Dolphin and we at last got quite a respect for him, and did not wish him to fall. We only hear it was Brown's son from the wounded prisoners, but of course are not certain. One of our shot had an extraordinary effect. There was a large tree with a very thick trunk, and right in a line with us behind it, in the rear of the battery, three officers had evidently placed themselves to avoid our shot, thinking the tree a protection. The ball passed through the tree, and took all three of their heads off, and they were lying 86 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. in the exact line as they had fallen. The huts and houses had evidently been long inhabited, and things of all kinds were found, plenty of wine and spirits, all of which were started, even to a number of cases of champagne. Un- fortunately five marines got too fond of the spirits, and are to be punished to-morrow. Only one of my marines was complained of ; and Hotham paid our men a great compli- ment, particularly for the way we worked at the batteries. As we shoved off from Gorgon to land, he hailed us, and said, ' Philomel, recollect I have picked you out to get into the batteries and disable the guns, because I know you of old, and I am sure you will do it well.' " The next day we landed early, the French leading up to No. 4 to destroy more guns, but there was no resistance ; the seven guns were rolled over into the water. At the same time I had two companies given me to go to No. i, and try to saw through the trunnions of the guns (we had by this time disabled the carriages) ; but finding we could not succeed, I asked Hotham to give me a lot of men and let me try and get the guns off ; so he gave me a hundred and fifty marines besides my men, while the seamen kept guard and had an occasional shot at the enemy recon- noitring. We had lots of ropes on the guns, and hauled them down to the boat by main force ; and by working hard at it all day, we got them all off by half an hour after dark, the marines and seamen relieving each other. We are all delighted at our success, as they are splendid trophies, and a good set-off against our flags in Buenos Ayres. The account of them in the sketch is not quite right, as the guns are larger than we then thought they were — three thirty-two-pounders, five twenty-four-pounders, and two eighteen-pounders, all splendid old Spanish brass guns, one highly ornamented, cast in 1663, and the others about 1780, all at the royal foundry at Seville. I suppose more beautiful brass guns have never been taken. We of course give half to the French, but the five we shall get will do very well as trophies.* To show how well they fired, at first, except one, not a shot passed ten feet above us, and the jib that was kept set after we anchored had seven shot through the foot of it, without any higher up but the one shot that cut the topmast. * The Frenchmen's trophies are still to be seen at Paris. Ours were returned, with somewhat of an apology, on the change of government. 1845-46.] INDIVIDUAL INCIDENTS. 87 " And now I think I have told you all except the names of our wounded. Besides Doyle, poor old Ray- mond, the captain of the forecastle, who was five years in Beagle, was dangerously wounded. A piece of iron as large as a thimble was taken out of his head (it cut the temple artery), besides which his elbow-bone is broken ; but still I hope he may do well. Cummings and boy Williams both severely wounded by splinters, and old Lee slightly in his back and arm, and Templeman in both arms. These are all we return ; but there are two others in the list with contusions. I did not like the idea of swelling the list too much, and therefore would not have them put in. Besides these, there were numbers with blood on the face and hands, from the multitude of slight splinters that flew about. One young Scotch boy, that had just joined us out of a merchant-brig, was going up on the forecastle with the powder, as coolly as if it was his every day's work, with the blood running down his cheek. Lee and one or two others, after their wounds were dressed, could hardly be kept below five minutes. There seemed more curiosity about watching our shot than fear about the round-shot that were knocking about us. The youngsters did very well ; they both went to their stations in the tops for furling, when we anchored, as eagerly as usual, and Steveley hailed me that the fore-topmast was nearly gone, just as he would to let go a rope. W. Sulivan hoisted the ensign directly after the halliards were shot away ; and as it was hoisted, and the shot went through it, old Hall, the quartermaster, proposed that it should not be repaired, but should be hoisted with the hole in it when we went home. It was very singular that one of the first shots fired at us should nearly have killed Doyle ; and the first fired at Coinus took poor Lieutenant Brickdale's head off as he was firing the forecastle gun, and it killed the powder-boy, but did not touch the ship. One of the first fired at ExpMitive knocked her thirty-two-pounder off her forecastle, killing the lieutenant who was going to fire it. Only one other officer was killed, and he was a fine young man — -G. Andrews, clerk in charge of Dolphin. She had had her cable shot away, and drifted some way off ; but the firing was then nearly over, and he had just said how wonderfully they had escaped, when a round-shot came through below and killed him in the gun-room, where he was assisting the doctor." 88 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. The casualties among the British officers were as follows : — Lieutenant C. Brickdale, Comus, killed. G. Andrews, Clerk, in charge Dolphin, killed. Lieutenant Doyle, Philomel, wounded severely (died). R. Warren, 2nd Master, Dolphin, wounded slightly. J. Gallagher, Assist. Surgeon, Dolphin „ „ T. Ellstob, Assist. Clerk, Dolphin Lieutenant Key, Fanny „ „ It may be well here to add extracts from Captain Sulivan's evidence before the Royal Commission on Coast Defences, i860. He used the statements to show how difficult it was to stop vessels passing batteries, also to show how batteries should be constructed, as well as the value of vertical fire over direct fire at forts. His reduced charges really turned his guns into howitzers. Some conclusions may be drawn therefrom bearing on modern warfare. " They could not sink the vessels, in consequence of the smoothness of the water. The San Martin had a hundred and six round-shot through her hull, and the greater proportion in the copper above the water. The nearer the water-line the thicker the shot, which was the only reason a man was left on her deck. They did not strike so much above ; they fired at the water-line. If she had heeled six inches, she would have gone down ; but there was not one shot under water. Yet I believe that as long as there had been a single sail set she could have gone by." " The batteries were built by a Russian engineer, entirely of rammed clay, with a sixteen-feet parapet ; and so perfect were they, that a cross-fire from vessels even in eight hours could not silence them ; and only those guns that were behind parapets, where the embrasures were not deep enough and the parapets high enough to shelter the men's heads, or to cover the guns sufficiently, could be silenced,^ — not by 1845-46.] STRATEGICAL INFERENCES. 89 injuring the guns, for after eight hours the principal battery had only one gun injured ; it was only accomplished by cutting off the men's heads and shoulders by careful parapet- firing from the ship." " I do not think shell-fire would succeed in stopping a ship going by a battery. I may add that so little effect had a fire on one battery, which had a parapet a foot above the men's heads (the only one of the kind), that, though two of our heavy steamers, after the booms were passed, got very close on its flank, where the guns could not fire on them, and were for three or four hours with four heavy guns flanking it, besides all the direct fire on it, not the slightest impression could be made on it, and hardly a man was hurt." " We had not concussion-shells then. The fuse-shells were evidently so wasted against the earthwork, that, after I had fired twelve myself carefully at one battery, finding that they either went into the parapet without bursting, or, if they passed the least to the rear, burst beyond the men, and that it was only wasting the shell, I would not fire any more, and I confined myself to shot with reduced one- pound charge, fired as close as possible over the parapet, to drop them into the battery* There was one remarkable case there to show what a steam-vessel could stand. The French steam-boat Fulton (six or seven hundred tons) went up to cover her chief, who was suffering dreadfully, and anchored between him and the batteries. The boom not being cut, she was detained there for, I think, three hours. They put fifty-six heavy round-shot into her paddle-wheels and sponsons ; they destroyed every particle of the wheel nearest the side, both the wheel and the paddle-beam, so that the shaft only had a mass of broken iron to heave round ; and yet, when the chains were cut, she was the first that went through with her one remaining wheel, and she afterwards came down and repassed the batteries, to tow up some other vessel with her one wheel. Though three round-shot went in among her engines, they did not do any damage." " There were eight hundred men, by their own account, killed and wounded, out of three thousand ; but they were nearly all struck by round-shot in the batteries as fast * He likened it to a boy lobbing stones over a wall, and afterwards always used this incident as an argument in favour of the advantage of vertical over direct fire against such forts. — Ed. 90 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. as the men were brought in, and we believe from the deserters' accounts that the loss was very much greater." " Were any of the guns which you speak of ' en bar- bette ' ? " — " None, though they were all in embrasures ; and, with the exception of one battery, the mistake had been made of not raising the parapet enough, which left the men's heads and shoulders showing over it, and left the guns exposed to direct fire, so that we saw the breech of the gun over the parapet very well." Captain Key : " £>o you know how many guns we had engaged at that time ? " — " Not reckoning one which was disabled, and only fired two shots, we (^Philomel) were only firing three guns at the batteries ; the Dolphin fired two ; then there was one long thirty-two-pounder in Fanny ; and the Conius had two thirty-two-pounders. One French vessel had six shell-guns (three on one side) ; and when they were all knocked over, she shifted the other three, and the whole were disabled in an hour. That makes fourteen. There were about sixteen thirty-two-pounder, medium and long guns in the sailing-vessels. In the steamers there were one ten-inch, two heavy sixty-eight- pounders, and one thirty-two-pounder. Those were the most that bore at any one time. And there were about thirty carronades, twenty-four and thirty-two-pounders, on the broadsides of other vessels [almost ineffective]." * Dr. Niddrie, the surgeon of the Gorgon, went in a small gig through the thickest of the fight from ship to ship to aid the surgeons in the ships suffering most. When he found his own ship had later on passed the batteries, he followed her under fire against a four-knot stream. His conduct was admired by both French and English ; yet, being unmentioned in the despatches, he was not rewarded, in spite of Sulivan's later efforts on his behalf Twenty-five years after, my father was telling the story to some young doctors in the Turkish baths at Blarney. * Captain Sherard Osborne wrote in 1861, referring to this action : " My argument amounts to this: If you with brigs and corvettes can fight such an action against an enemy firing shot and come off victors, vuhilst our huge ships were repulsed at Sevastopol without one being sunk, that the only way to account for it is by the moral effect of the shell and hot shot fired at the ships." (Hence the need of armour.) 1845-46.] DR. NIDDRIE ADMIRAL TREHOUART. 9 1 One of them afterwards, in my presence, went up to a lady- visitor at the establishment, and said, " We have been hearing the story of a Dr. Niddrie who was at Obligado. Was he any relation of yours?" "My husband!" She told my father that, disappointed at being passed over, really because he had bravely spoken out when it was his duty to do so, he retired into private practice soon afterwards, but did not survive his disappointment many years. Sulivan, in his pamphlet on " Honorary Rewards," speak- ing also of Captain Tr^houart, says, " His noble conduct was the admiration of all, and the cordial, frank, and thoroughly straightforward manner in which he acted towards his allies throughout the expedition was beyond all praise." For this action Captain Tr6houart was pro- moted to the rank of admiral. It is a pity our rules do not admit of a similar promotion for special naval service. Hotham gave Sulivan the flag the latter had hauled down under fire. In 1883 the authorities at Buenos Ayres returned a British flag, supposed to be one of the 71st Highlanders', captured from them in 1807 (but afterwards proving to be one taken from one of our merchant-ships). Sulivan then, through the Argentine consul in London, made a return of his flag. It will be seen, from the follow- ing copy of his letter to the consul, he thought the defender of the battery was Rodriguez. But after my father's death Admiral Brown's grandson wrote claiming the honour for his father. It will be seen in these journals that Brown was the name originally mentioned, so there is evidently some uncertainty about the matter. " Bournemouth, 1883. " At the battle of Obligado in the Parana, on November 20th, 1845, an ofiScer in command of the principal battery excited the admiration of those English officers who were nearest to him by the manner in which he encouraged his men and kept them 92 THE BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. [Ch. IV. to the guns during a heavy cross-fire, under which that battery more especially suffered. For more than six hours he walked the parapet of the battery exposed to his feet, except when he occasionally left it to point a gun himself. From wounded prisoners of his regiment we afterwards learned that he was Colonel Rodriguez, of the Buenos Ayrean Regiment of Patricios. When all the artillerymen were killed or wounded, he manned the guns with men of his infantry regiment to near the close of the battle, losing five hundred killed and wounded out of the eight hundred men of his regiment. When the English seamen and marines landed in the evening, and first took that battery, he and the remainder of his regiment alone, of all the defending force, held the position in the rear of the battery, notwithstanding the heavy cross-fire of all the ships through the woods in the rear of the batteries, and were the last to retreat. The flag of the battery he had so nobly defended was hauled down by one of the men with me, and was given to me by the English senior officer, Captain Hotham. When hauled down, the flag fell on some of the bodies of those who had fallen, and was stained with their blood. I have lately seen a statement that an English regimental flag, that had been in the possession of an Argentine family since the war of 1807, has been restored to the regiment by a member of that family. I am desirous of following that example by restoring to Colonel Rodriguez, if alive — or if not, to the Patricio Regiment of Buenos Ayres, if still existing — the flag that so many of their regiment nobly fell under in the defence of their country. If Colonel Rodriguez is dead, and the regiment does not now exist, I would ask any of the surviving members of the colonel's family to accept it in remembrance of him, and of the very gallant conduct of himself, his officers, and men at Obligado. Those of us opposed to him who had witnessed his self-devotion and gallantry were very glad indeed to hear afterwards that he had escaped unhurt to the end of the action. "B. J. SULIVAN, Admiral:' CHAPTER V. ASCENT OF THE PARANA. After Obligado, the men of the squadron had been destroying and burning all on shore that was of no use to them. Sulivan, with eighty men, searched the woods and houses, and exchanged a few shots with a party of cavalry. Captain Hope went on with three boats to attack a schooner (the Chacabuco), and sent a lieutenant back for more boats and men, who were to come up another channel, to prevent the schooner escaping that way. The French commander, thinking it too hazardous, refused his boats, for the vessel had three pivot twenty-four-pounders and eighty men, and there was another vessel with two guns. Hope had only three boats and forty men, and went with such a strong tide, that, if he failed in his attack, he could not escape, there being a chain of boats across at the spot. Sulivan thought his friend Hope was wrong to go with such a small force, when by waiting a day or two he could have got other boats and the Fanny. He wrote, " There may be occasions when, to save an army, or a ship, or to prevent a defeat, it may be right to risk a number of lives against great odds " ; but he thought this attempt was not justified. Being anxious, Hotham sent the Firebrand and two of the Philomel's gigs under Richards, and also Sulivan to take the lead, in case Hope had been defeated. Fortunately Hope, having heard there were two hundred men with the schooner, did not attack. The incident, 93 94 ASCENT OF THE PARANA. [Ch. V. together with the following remarks, may be recorded for the sake of the lesson they convey : — " It would be a dreadful thing to have three boats destroyed, and such a nurnber of men with poor Hope and others, when the sacrifice is not necessary. My own mind is made up not to care for what people may say or think ; but if I am sent on service, and have reason to think that, from the position, force, or other causes, the losses are likely to be more than the thing is worth, I will not attempt it, and I do not think that any man with proper prudence and reasoning faculties would. I hope the breeze will enable me to get on to-morrow, as Philomel may be able to get up to the vessels, if Firebrand cannot ; and then we might cause the enemy to do what I wish to see, as it would save bloodshed — that is, destroy their own vessels and go on shore. Our point would then be gained without risk to ourselves or to others. I never got hold of a Falkland bull by the horns, but by his tail, because I thereby accomplished my purpose with less risk to myself, and this I think should be one's object on occasions of this kind." On December 3rd they were nearing Rosario, where resist- ance was expected. " We are all living on salt meat, while thousands of head of stock of all kinds are looking at us from the shore." Doyle was doing so well that it was resolved to take off his arm. He bore it wonderfully. Lieutenant Mackinnon, in his book, mentions the wonder- ful healing power of the Parana air, despite the heat. The Firebrand was chasing the Chacabuco and two other schooners, which the enemy were trying to save, towing them up-stream with horses. After a long chase, when close to them, the steamer struck on a bar. Not knowing this, the enemy blew up the Chacabuco. " Directly these vessels * are gone, the rest go on up ' Comtis was returning to Obligado, Dolphin and Fanny to Monte Video for boats and to convoy merchant-vessels up the river. 1845-46.] OPENING UP THE INTERIOR. 95 the river as fast as possible. When we get a little higher, the French chief goes into the steamer, and San Martin remains in the river at that place. A little higher, at Punta Gorda, Firebrand leaves us, and she then takes charge of the river, visiting the different ships and places occa- sionally, so as to keep the river open. Hotham will probably take Gorgon or Philomel on to Corrientes and Assumption in Paraguay, where no vessel-of-war has ever yet been. It is certainly the most interesting trip ever undertaken. The Paraguayan people have for years been shut out of all intercourse with the world by the tyranny of Dr. Francia, and since Francia's death Rosas has kept the river shut up ; so that, except to a few people who reached it, and were imprisoned in the country for years by Francia, it is really a new country. Our only attempt to open diplo- matic intercourse with them failed through the folly of the person sent ; and now, if we are able to reach them with the steam-vessels, and give them some idea of what the opening of their river may lead to, it will be a most important event. It is singular this chance should have fallen to my lot. You may recollect I asked before I left England to take the Philomel up, and was told it interfered too much with the internal policy of these states. I have often since said that the only thing that should tempt me to serve again would be the command of a vessel to go to Paraguay, should any mission ever be sent there. But I have not finished about our plans. If it is found that there is every chance of getting Gorgon up to Assumption, Philomel will be left at anchor in the river ; but I go on with Hotham in Gorgon, so that the plan of the river and observations, etc., may be carried on all the way up. If anything after all prevents Gorgon getting right up, we can go on in the tender ; but 1 hope Gorgon will get up, as she is such a very large ship, that her getting so far up will have a great effect on those who have never seen a vessel larger than a small coasting-vessel. When the Paraguayan envoys were at Buenos Ayres and saw the Pearl, they were astonished, and said, ' Why did you not send Mr. Gordon [the British envoy] in a vessel like this, instead of smuggling him across the country in a cart ? ' and they expressed their wish that such a vessel could be seen at Assumption. What then will they say if they see the Gorgon there? It will be a most interesting thing. We shall be eleven hundred miles from the sea, in one of the most splendid 96 ASCENT OF THE PARANA. [Ch. V. countries in the world, where the largest population of any South American state have been shut out from all com- munication with the rest of mankind, and with whom (if we can establish commercial intercourse) a trade may be opened that will materially tempt our manufacturers, and through them all classes of our people ; in fact, would more than compensate for any loss our trade may suffer through the Brazilians not taking our goods, as in that case the whole of Brazil could be supplied with them through Paraguay and Corrientes, where the frontiers are so ex- tensive that the Brazilians would find it impossible to prevent smuggling to any extent. "December i^th. — I am thankful to say that, instead of meeting with any resistance at Rosario, we found all the inhabitants — men, women, and children, as well as many soldiers — outside their houses on the slope, to see the (to them) wonderful sight of such a squadron passing. From some people who were in Rosario since our action at Obligado we have heard many particulars. They lost four hundred men killed (I suppose this includes wounded). But the most important thing is that numbers took ad- vantage of the defeat to desert, having probably been years from their homes, compelled to serve, and, belonging to the distant inland provinces of Cordova, Tucuman, etc., they were glad of the chance to get away. Out of all the two thousand five hundred to three thousand troops Mancillia had the day of the action, he has only been able to collect four hundred under arms ; so that, allow- ing for the killed and wounded, nearly two thousand men must have deserted. They went off in large parties for their homes ; in fact, every one belonging to the distant provinces that could get a good horse started off. All this will have a great moral effect. And if it is true (as we hear) that Prudentia Rosas (Rosas' brother), who was sent against the ' rebels ' at Santa Yk., has joined them against Rosas, why, the thing is up with him altogether. From whcrt: we hear, it is not likely that we shall meet with any more resistance up the river. We also hear that they knew all our plans through Monte Video, and they were quite pre- pared for our landing, and they had still, when we landed, two large bodies of troops drawn up in the rear out of fire. When we were landing, the general having, as he thought, got one body to advance, went to the other to get them to go on ; but while he did this, the first body had 1845-46] SULIVAN FALLS INTO THE STREAM. 97 gone to the right-about ; and out of all the force, only the men that resisted us in the battery at first could be kept. There were about two hundred and fifty men. Had they stood well, they would have caused us much loss ; for the advance that I took into the battery was not more than fifty-five men. They might easily have overpowered us, and driven us back down the slope, had they come out of the wood and charged us, as our men, having to scramble up a steep slope, arrived in the battery out of all forma- tion, and the marines were then a little way behind. But I suppose that the}' were panic-stricken at seeing such rushing into the battery, and thought that we were much stronger than we really were." In a letter written on board the schooner Obligado, off Esquina (December 2 1 st, 1 845), he describes the ascent of the Parana, the ships struggling with a contrary breeze against a current of three to four knots, the thermometer eighty- eight in the cabin. The rate of progress was about ten miles a day, sometimes the ships being warped at the rate of a mile in four hours, at others being hauled along the bank, when they did a mile an hour. As many of the men showed symptoms of scurvy, they were anxious to press on to Esquina, the farthest point occupied by the Corrientino forces — therefore the first where fresh meat could be obtained. By the giving way of a bank, Sulivan fell into the four-knot stream. He had hold of a twig. A man coming to help him also went overboard, and caught him by the arm, and said he could not swim. Fortunately the twig held until assistance came. The ships soon passed the Fulton ashore, and pushed on to Goya, Hotham and Tr^houart having started on horseback for Villa Nueva, the headquarters of Paz. Three Corrientino gun-boats came to meet the ascending vessels. " It is certainly a satisfaction to be taking up the first British flag — the first vessel-of-war of any nation that has been up the river. The mosquitoes are troublesome . . . 7 98 ASCENT OF THE PARANA. [Ch. V. trying to get the latitude by stars, with my head and neck black with the flies, while I held the sextant, which I had to put down every moment to brush away the mosquitoes." The French steamer coming up, gave them a tow, but ships were constantly touching the ground. They reached Goya, the second place of importance. There being not water enough near the town, they had to go eight miles above it, where they found an encampment of Paraguayan troops. " Most important things have occurred lately, affecting the politics of these countries. The government of Paraguay, having failed on every side to get Rosas to acknowledge their independence, and give them the free navigation of the river, at last have made a treaty with the Corrientinos, by which they assist them in their war against Rosas with all their means, and offer as many men as are wanted. The vanguard of their army, two thousand five hundred men, arrived two days before us, and the vessels bringing the second division are daily expected. We are now anchored fifty yards off their tents ; and it is altogether a most interesting subject, when we consider that for thirty years Dr. Francia, the dictator, not only shut up Para- guay, but by a system of terror also shut up the ideas and minds of all the inhabitants, and that till his death occurred four years since no one dared even to express his thoughts on any public question. It is most interesting to observe what the effect of being brought up under such a system has on the character of the people. . . . Paz takes all his Corrientino troops against Rosas ; he has about six thousand that he can advance with, and Lawrence says they are the best he has seen in these countries, some fit to be compared with English troops. Hotham and Lawrence, with the French captain, returned from the army the day we arrived here, and are staying at Goya, which is about eight miles off. . . . The manifesto of the Paraguayan Government declaring war against Rosas is very well and sensibly written. It points out to the world how they had tried for years to obtain from Rosas the recognition of their independence, and the free navigation of their river, the only highway they have for foreign trade. All 1845-46.] INDEPENDENCE OF PARAGUAY. 99 they could obtain from him was a denial of their independ- ence, and a declaration in which the province of Paraguay- was termed one of the Buenos Ayrean states — a thing it never had been, having been independent from the first year the Spanish dominion was overthrown. Having explained all the negotiations which were entered into, and the determination of Rosas to deny their independence and prevent their trade, the manifesto goes on to show that, should Rosas conquer the Banda Oriental, he can assert all his forces against Corrientes, which, though it has held out for so many years against him, may be over- powered, in which case the Paraguayans may feel certain that Rosas would then invade them, to endeavour to force them to become part of the Buenos Ayrean confederation, and that it was better to assist Corrientes — which was the outpost of Paraguay — than risk its being conquered, and then the horrors of war carried into their own country. " On January 2nd the authorities of Goya gave a grand ball in honour of our visit ; and as the thermometer was above a hundred, they rigged up a very nice place under a canvas roof" Again he writes on January 15th, describing a week's hard work piloting the Gorgon, with Philomel and Fanny in tow, up the Parana. Very hard work indeed it was for him and the master of the Gorgon, they having at the least difficulty to go ahead in boats to find the channel — on the paddle-box or in the boat, under a burning sun, from 4 a.m. until 7.30 p.m. At one place, after three hours in the boats, he gets Gorgon over passes with only one foot under her keel. They were anxious to push on fast ; for many men in Gorgon — though none in Philomel — were down with scurvy, one man having died. They had no lime-juice, and had been three months on salt provisions. Providentially, Sulivan saw and successfully chased two cows swimming in the river, which gave three days' fresh meat to all. Captain Hotham then decided to leave the Gorgon, and to go on in the schooner with Sulivan as fast as possible, the lOO ASCENT OF THE PARANA. [Ch. V. latter to survey the upper river. Lieutenant Richards, taking command of the Philomel, was to go in her to Esquina, a distance of forty miles, to procure the much- needed beef for the Gorgon, etc. During the time of Sulivan's absence. Lieutenant Richards continued the work of survey and pilotage in the Philomel. Sulivan, in the schooner, arrived at Corrientes from Goya on January 20th, Hotham having gone on in the French steamer to Assumption, the capital. News had come that Paz was retreating before Urquieza. Rosas had sent a large force, and appeared inclined to try the issue of a battle, with the object of gaining possession of the produce before the convoy arrived. If he succeeded, he would upset the policy of our ministers, and make the victory of Obligado useless. This had never been anti- cipated by our authorities. Numbers of merchants were calculating to make fortunes out of the expedition. But their goods could not be landed if there was any fear of Rosas succeeding. Rosas' force had already got so near Goya that that place had been abandoned. Sulivan feared — as did take place — that Rosas might get possession of the cliffs and intercept the convoy on its way up. He was anxious for Hotham's return, as there were no instructions for the combined fleet to attack Rosas' army. Paz was a prudent general, who had never lost a battle, because he never allowed himself to be drawn into a combat at a disadvantage. The female population of Goya had taken refuge in ships. " Corrientes, January 2^th, 1846. "It is really sad to see even here the poor families in terror talking of embarking — large families of females (the males being all with the army) with no one to protect them or assist them, and all knowing what treatment they would receive if taken in the town. There are about ten thousand inhabitants, of whom nearly all are women and 1845-46.] AN ADVENTUROUS TRIP. 10 1 children ; and even were all the men (six thousand) now with the army at their homes, such has been the destruction in the constant civil wars, that there are in the provinces six females for one male." The Gorgon had been left three hundred miles below Corrientes, above passes with only just water enough for her, and two hundred miles from the squadron off Santa Fe. Above the Gorgon, at Corrientes, Captain Hotham and Captain Tr^houart had only a small French steamer, a brig, and a schooner. At this crisis news arrived' that the army of Rosas had invaded the province, defeated the army friendly to us, and was marching on Corrientes, having already reached a point on the river nearly two hundred miles above where the Gorgon was left among the islands. As it was impossible to leave Corrientes undefended, and also important to get the Gorgon down at once, and bring up the smaller steamers expected from England, Captain Hotham was in a very anxious state. Sulivan saw that, unless he went down himself, Gorgon could not be moved, and no other vessels could ascend the river until the convoy — all sailing-vessels — worked its way up. He therefore offered to go in the dinghy with two boys, going as much as possible through the islands, and trusting to escape notice in places where he would be obliged to pass the main bank of the river. Captain Hotham at first refused to sanction it, as he thought the risk too great ; but eventually he allowed Sulivan to proceed. Sulivan thus describes his adventurous expedition : — "Corrientes, February 28th, 1846. " Hotham returned from Paraguay on January 28th, but determined to remain here till the result of the invasion was known ; and yet he wanted Gorgon taken down the river before it fell. Having only the schooner with few men, he could not spare any to send down ; and I02 ASCENT OF THE PARANA. [Ch. V. seeing he was pushed how to manage it, I offered to go down in the Philomel's dinghy with my steward and boy. He was very much pleased. It is three hundred miles from this to Gorgon ; but I took advantage of a small vessel going to Goya, and so saved half the voyage in the dinghy. From Goya to Gorgon was a hundred and fifty miles : it took us two days and nights in the dinghy. You would have been amused if you had seen us start. I had in her all my clothes, instruments, chrono- meters, tiger-skins, etc. Horn and Worthing composed the crew. We could not venture to land in the night for fear of tigers, and, still worse, mosquitoes ; but we had .some preserved meat and biscuits for provisions. I was never more tired of anything than I was of sitting so long in a boat without moving. We anchored a few hours one night to get a little sleep. The day after we reached Gorgon we started in her down the river. It was the most anxious work I ever had — very narrow channels with numerous banks, a three- and four-knot stream setting down, and a heavy ship that took many minutes some- times to answer her helm. Some of the bars had only six inches or one foot more water than she drew, with a very hard bottom ; but we got over all these well, and I began to think we should have no mishap. But at last, running along a narrow channel in a bay close to high cliffs, she would not answer her helm, and ran on shore with all the force of steam and stream, within fifty yards of cliffs on the enemy's shore — a nice posi- tion, had they attempted to molest us. You may fancy my anxiety for the two days it took us to get off. The river fell six inches a few hours after we went on shore ; and had it gone on falling, Gorgon would have remained there at least till next year. But the next day it rose again, and Dolphin and Fanny arrived with the convoy, and with their assistance and three bower-anchors out we got off. Having done this, I took Dolphin and Fanny back with me, as I knew then that Hope, who commands in the river during Hotham's absence, and who was to have been at the Baxada to station the vessels, was not coming up, as there were batteries lower down he wished to pass near, and therefore I had to station the vessels, so as to provide for this difference in the plans. Rosas had prepared all the force he could to attack the convoy coming up ; and knowing now that permanent batteries 1845-46.] THE CONVOY UNDER FIRE. IO3 were of no use, as we were sure to take them, he adopted the much wiser plan of movable artillery, and had about twelve heavy field-pieces, with about two thousand men, at the cliffs of San Lorenzo, which are about four miles long, about seventy feet high, and the vessels had to pass within a quarter of a mile of the cliff the whole way. The ground behind being quite level, nothing can be seen from the river but the cliff, so that all the men are safe from the fire of the vessels, unless looking over the cliff. There were sixty vessels. The Dolphin led with the first division of the convoy. Key in Fanny with the next division, while Hope was behind to cover them. [With a light breeze they were stemming the tide only at the rate of one or two knots.] The guns kept galloping up to the cliff, just showing the muzzle over, firing, and then withdrawing again, and, when loaded again, appearing at a new place. In this way they pounded the convoy for three hours in passing, hitting every vessel several times. One merchant- brig had thirty-four shots in her — Firebrand twenty-two, four through her funnel ; yet providentially no one in all the sixty vessels was killed, and only two in Firebrand wounded. Hope had a very narrow escape ; his seat on the paddle-box was shot away, and the ridge-rope he was holding on by shot close to his hand. Yet so well did the enemy work their guns that it was quite impossible to hit them, the muzzle only showing for a moment, and then going to another place ; so that before we could get a gun trained at it, it had fired and disappeared. If the ships fired a foot too low, the shot buried itself in the cliff ; if a foot over, it went inland over the heads of all the troops. Though the Dolphin and Fanny fired fifty rounds a gun, and the French corvette Coquette also, they do not think they did the enemy the least damage. At the end of the cliff the channel veered right away, and the vessels all had to turn their sterns to the cliff; and they would have suffered much there had not there been a little rising ground behind the cliffs, so the enemy could not bring a gun to that point without exposing it. Levinge remained near that point in the Dolphin, and directly they brought two guns there in sight, one of his shot either struck one of the guns or went so close to it that they withdrew them, and did not attempt to bring any more there, which saved the vessels from the worst fire they would have received. The enemy fired beautifully, and worked the guns as I04 ASCENT OF THE PARANA. [Ch. V. smartly as the best artillery in the world could have done. If Rosas adopts that kind of warfare, he may give us great trouble, as we can do him little damage ; but it costs him so much in shot and powder, and he is afraid to trust his guns too far from Buenos Ayres, for fear of the Orivinus rising, so that this was merely got up for the convoy, Rosas being bitter at vessels of all nations availing themselves of our protection to force the trade he has always pro- hibited, and he has declared the people on all these vessels, except the French and English, who are only enemies, to be pirates, and orders all his authorities to treat them as such. There are many American vessels among them. Tom Hamilton is in one, and he does not half like passing down again ; two young Lafones are also in other vessels, and many amateurs who never expected such a fire on them. One Italian buried himself up to the neck in a cargo of salt, and a shot nearly took his head off, and he got so pickled that he has been ill ever since ! At Tonnelero, a little lower down, they had four guns, and fired a good deal. One shot took the leg of a French midshipman ; but that was the only damage, — he is doing well.* " Having reached the lanito (?), I left Gorgon there, and took Dolphin on to Philomel at the Baxada, and you may fancy our delight when the next morning the Alecto arrived direct from England, and bringing the mails ; but our pleasure was much damped by hearing of the death of poor Doyle and of Chartres. Doyle had nearly recovered, when, by a mistake either of the surgeon or the druggist, he was given five grains of morphine at once, enough to kill three men. The quantity made him vomit it up again ; but the excitement caused an artery in the stump of his arm to break out afresh, and put him to the pain of another operation : the consequence was, he could not stand it, and, after three weeks more, he sank under it. We also heard that both the young officers of Captain Trdhouart * From the Defence Commission evidence, illustrating how ships can pass batteries : " I may mention one thing, which Captain Key perhaps would not like to mention —namely, that in his little brig, after passing with the sixty vessels, mistaking the signal, he repassed the cliff, and, finding it a mistake, had again to repass alone against the fire of all these guns which had been pounding the whole sixty vessels ; and though they hulled him repeatedly, he went by at about two knots over the ground. Now if that can be done with a light breeze, and with small vessels, what would not a steamer do passing rapidly, at the rate of ten knots ? " I845-46-J DEATHS OF WOUNDED OFFICERS. I OS had died of their wounds, one from not having his leg cut off soon enough, every case of amputation from the action having recovered. We were sorry to hear that, after Martin had organised a force, and after three months' trouble had got possession of Maldonado, Flores with the Monte Videan soldiers against positive orders went outside and was surrounded and defeated by the enemy, having two hundred infantry cut off and put to death. This obliged Martin to give up Maldonado again and embark. I had not even time to read my letters before we were off again in the Alecto for Corrientes. We did not wait an hour. She was ordered to wait Hotham's coming down at Liguina ; but I thought, knowing his ideas and wishes, I had better take on myself to alter this, and take her to Corrientes, and I was obliged to go in her, for her pilot would not take charge of her above the Baxada, as she drew so much water for the upper passes. " We reached Corrientes in the Alecto, having only grounded once in a distance of four hundred miles : that once detained us two days. I sent Lieutenant Mackinnon on by land with the mails. He rode the hundred miles in the afternoon of one day and the forenoon of the next. The people of Corrientes were delighted at an English steamer arriving, and have been flocking on board her, hundreds of ladies coming and going as fast as possible. Sometimes the engine-room was so crowded with them that there was no moving. I am happy to say we all go down the river shortly, as Urquieza has returned out of the province, and there is no more fear of its being conquered. But I must tell you the further particulars about the invasion. Paz retired before Urquieza till he was nearly in the extreme of the province. Unfortunately, through the rashness of General Madanager, who commanded the rear- guard of Paz's army, it was surrounded, and had to disperse to escape, Madanager being taken prisoner. This mis- fortune injured our cause very much, and broke the con- fidence of the army — besides which, even among themselves, there have been intrigues and disputes that have bothered Paz very much, and no doubt prevented his success. Still, he was able to harass Urquieza so much, that at last he (Paz) drew up his army in a good position and offered battle. Urquieza was afraid to attack him, and again retreated, followed by Paz, each party being afraid of the other. He is now out of the province, and Paz has again I06 ASCENT OF THE PARANA. [Ch. V. taken up his quarters on the frontier. Both parties are so done up by the month's work (that is, their horses are knocked up), that it is not Hkely either can resume the offensive. They will spend the coming six months in making preparations for the next campaign. I fear there is so much intrigue and jealousy at work among the Corrientinos, that we cannot depend on them for a moment, and I see more strongly than ever the necessity of our confining ourselves to the independence of the Banda Oriental, and not mixing ourselves up with the civil wars of the Buenos Ayrean provinces. If we do, there is too much risk of Rosas defeating us, as on shore we have only to depend on the people of these provinces ; and it appears almost impossible they can succeed against the power of Rosas, even if they were united. But they are not. Every leading family hopes to reap the most benefit, should they succeed ; and each is jealous of the other, and this thwarts all their plans and makes them dangerous allies." " H.M.S. ' Alecto,' Goya, March 4th, 1846. "We left Corrientes on the 2nd in the Alecto, having Fanny and Obligado lashed alongside us, and the French steamer following us. This was anxious work for me, as I only thought the passes safe for Alecto, drawing twelve and a half feet, or at most thirteen feet, and the Fulton drew fourteen feet, having just filled up with coals and provisions. However, we came down a hundred miles the first day without touching. Yesterday morning we got over the worst pass. Fulton, following, got on shore. As soon as we were over, I went back to her and got her through also, but touching all the way. We arrived here yesterday ; and as we do not go till to-morrow, I have a day's rest, and you cannot fancy how much I value that now. No school-boy ever enjoyed an extra holiday more. Yesterday was, I think, the hottest day we have had, and being from daylight to dark either in a boat or on the paddle-box was very trying. However, I have been wonder- fully well, considering the work. I have never been off work one day. To-day I have a headache : fortunately it is a day at anchor. What tends soonest to knock me up is the stretch my mind is kept on, and the anxiety for fear of getting on shore, particularly in coming down, when the rapid stream would prevent you stopping if going the wrong way, and when even sounding is of no use, as before 1845-46-] INTRICATE NAVIGATION. 10/ the vessel could stop she must be on shore. I will try and explain the kind of navigation. A multitude of islands, sometimes leaving a channel of a mile wide, sometimes not a quarter of a mile ; in every part sand-banks running off the islands, leaving a narrow channel, winding like a serpent. These banks are all under water, and not to be seen, and one has nothing to trust to but the eye and recollecting at which points to cross from one shore to another. Then in the eight hundred miles we have gone up the Parana there are at least eight hundred bends and crossings in the channel, and all the islands are so much alike — very low, with thick wood. This will give you an idea of the constant anxiety as to whether one can be sure to cross at the right spot fifty or a hundred times a day. I could not continue this kind of work much longer ; but the pilots cannot or will not take charge of the large vessels, and they do not really know the deepest channels. I have now two always with me on the paddle-box as pupils — two or three officers besides. But the pilot will not take this vessel up again ; and I have offered, if she goes up, to take her up once more and down again, when the pilots say they will know the channel, and after that trip will take the vessels up. I hope the officers will be able to do so by that time also. At all events, I mean to strike work after that, and I hope we shall go out of the river. They cannot keep Philomel out much longer, as her keel came up alongside the other day, and all her fore-foot is off, so that the cables catch in it." " H.M.S. ' Alecto,' Cerrito, March 854-J THE CAUSE OF INACTION. I 35 more to be depended on than many pilots, who would only have known the direct route to Cronstadt. They knew nothing of the inshore pilotage." I must here reluctantly explain the true cause of the admiral's disregard of the services of his officers appointed for surveying duties and of his fatal waste of time in not having Bomarsund, Sweaborg, and other places surveyed before the fleet moved up. The master of the fleet appeared jealous of the arrival of surveyors, presumably thinking that it was an encroachment upon the duties of his department, and he attempted to perform himself the work for which they had been specially appointed. Being the only officer who had served previously under Napier, and being with him in the Duke, he had much influence with the admiral at first. It was not until the admiral learnt to distinguish between the official capacities that he began to appreciate the importance of the surveyors' work. The necessity for throwing light on the conduct of the campaign alone induces me to touch upon this petty jealousy, and to blame one, now no more, who was a good officer in his proper capacity. Admiral Plumridge having taken off" Evans and found him too useful to return. Captain Sulivan had night and day work alone whilst suffering from sore throat, which was increased by constantly hailing other ships. Although there were other small steamers under commanders and lieutenants, the senior surveying officer, a post-captain, was made to run about for all kinds of work, towing boats, carrying letters and beef, whilst the admiral was com- plaining of having no pilots. In "Napier," p. 115, it is stated that the admiral went with his squadron towards Hango Head, with the intention of running up to Sweaborg. He complains of the situation — " No pilots, no buoys, no beacons " — and he fears for the 136 WAR WITH RUSSIA. [Ch. VI. safety of his fleet. So he retired without seeing Sweaborg or .sending any one to reconnoitre. But he had been informed that the Russian fleet was outside Sweaborg in the ice. If so, he might have got at them, and therefore there was no excuse for turning back without setting the point at rest. Again, the admiral speaks of the dangers of the fleet without pilots, yet does not take his surveying-ships with him. On p. 139 the same complaints are made of the absence of marks and of there being only two surveying- ships ! Yet neither was utilised, nor were the buoys, specially supplied by the Admiralty for the purpose of placing on the shoals, etc. " Off Elgsnabben, April 2yd, 1854. " On returning from Stockholm, when thirty miles only on our road back, we fortunately heard the fleet firing, and soon after saw the upper sails of some large ships off our deck. The mirage was very extraordinary and distorted everything on the horizon. One would have supposed that nothing could be seen at any distance, but to my surprise -we ran towards the ships twenty-five miles by patent log after seeing them off deck, they being becalmed all the time. On joining the flag-ship, I was instantly sent to tow boats and take admirals to their ships. The next day -we were near Landsort, the admiral meaning to anchor in this place. I was sent on ahead to get pilots, and, taking five out of the first boat, hurried back, knowing it was of importance to save daylight, as there is no anchorage in any part of the channel for miles except at this spot. But the admiral seemed afraid of going on unless every ship had a pilot. I advised him to let two ships without pilots follow each ship with one, and I offered to take all the frigates and smaller vessels ; but he would have a pilot for every ship, and ordered me to put these five on board his division and go for more. Knowing the risk, if much delay took place, I thought it right to tell him this, that if the last ships waited they might lose their daylight, and there was no anchorage in the channel for the twenty miles from Landsort to Elgsnabben. All I got was a sharp I8S4-] SURVEYORS UNDERVALUED. 13/ answer and an order to get more pilots. By some more coming out and meeting the ships, Gorgon having a signal flying that pilots were there, we lost little time, and I got in and got four more out, and then the last ships did not reach the anchorage till after dark, which was hardly safe ; while if he would have listened to me and to his own master, who agreed with me, all would have been at anchor an hour before dark, with no risk. Thinking it might be as well to let the admiral know the sort of duties it was considered I was appointed for, I took my instructions from Admiral Beaufort and asked the captain of the fleet to read them, and, if he thought proper, to show them to the admiral. Whether he did or not I do not know, but last night I was ordered to start at 3.30 this morning with the purser of the flag-ship to Dalaro and wait his directions — ^in fact, putting me under the orders of the purser for the time. You will see how thick the islands are near Dalaro ; but we went without a pilot, and the purser, meeting the man about beef coming down in another steamer, returned to the flag-sship with him, and told me he did not require me any more, and I might return, and by eight we were back again. That part of the channel is ten times more intricate than anything the fleet came through, and that proves that I could easily have brought any of the ships here. The Duke of Welling- ton might have gone with us to-day among all the small islands in perfect safety, for we never had any shallow water the whole way. We had evening service in the cabin this evening, and about fourteen attended. I merely read a very nice prayer for Sunday evening out of the book Otter sent me, and then one of the nice cottage sermons : they were very attentive. I have asked all who wish to come every evening at eight. . . . Otter has very nice work piloting the French ships through the Great Belt : he has brought one through, and is looking out for the others. That would be much better than being ' boots ' to the fleet, and beef-boat also. To-night Admiral Plumridge has joined, and I shall make a row about Evans not coming back. " I have written a semi-official letter to the Hydrographer, explaining exactly the way I have been employed, the work I am kept at, and the little chance there is of my being able to carry out the intentions of himself and the Board so long as I am in this vessel, which the admiral 138 WAR WITH RUSSIA. [Ch. VI. finds so handy for a tender, and I have requested, as the only way of freeing me from it, that they will give me a larger vessel and leave this one either as tender to the admiral or as a lieutenant's command ; that 1 cannot go on receiving pay and nominally holding a position I am not allowed to do the work of ; that it would be unjust to myself or to the service to do so ; and that, rather than continue in this way, I would prefer being superseded, even if I had to return to half-pay, if the Board would not give me a frigate as a regular ship. I found last night from a brother-captain that others have expressed their opinions respecting the way I am employed and the want of con- sideration for my rank and position shown by the admiral, and it has even been remarked on in his presence, for I am told he said that she ought to have been sent out as a lieutenant's command, showing that he is utterly unable to understand the position or use of a surveying ofiScer, or he would not consider solely her requisite as an admiral's tender. . . . My own firm conviction is that it has been a great mistake appointing our present chief; he is evidently very nervous, afraid of the land, and, I think, seems weighed down with the responsibility (he always has a very nervous twitching of his lips and face), and yet he will not be easily advised by those around him, but will have his own way. That he will do any fighting work when it comes very well I dare say, but others would do it as well, and perhaps with more judgment and fore- thought. Up to this time I have never seen the fleet perform one single evolution, except tacking when neces- sary, so that any changes of position from divisions into line or from line into sailing columns have never been attempted. They are well worked at guns. Chads * and the captain of the fleet go from ship to ship, working them at quick and horizontal firing, supplying powder quickly, etc., etc., and there is so much practice that many are beginning to ask where a fresh supply of powder, shot, and shell is to come from ! " " Elgsnabben, April 2'jth. " Yesterday the admiral returned from Stockholm, and I had a talk with him about my work ; he was more civil than usual, and asked me to dinner with him, but he told me that Admiral Plumridge was going with paddle- * Described by Sulivan as the best gunnery officer in the service. i8S4-J Napier's objections. 139 steamers to the Aland Islands, that he could not send me, as my vessel could not carry enough coal, had no speed to keep up with the others, and would be a clog on them. Unfortunately I could not dispute these facts. I told him I had asked for a larger vessel, and he said he hoped I should get one, but that Lightning could not even defend herself against a gun-boat, and that as he could not let Mr. Evans' services be lost also, the latter must remain with Admiral Plumridge till the fleet was up there and I had my work to do, when he should rejoin me. I asked him if he would allow me to go also in one of the other steamers, as I should then be able to acquire knowledge that would be useful by-and-by, and that there could be no necessity for my remaining with Lightning. He made some objections about my leaving my ship without her captain. I told him that, when piloting a squadron before, I had hardly been on board my own ship for eight months, and for three months never saw her, but I could not get a decided answer from him ; and we are now, I believe, about to sail, having just got a cargo of bullocks we have been waiting for, and I shall not know if I go till we are outside. Buckle wants me to go with him in Valorous. This morning I was going to breakfast with him at seven, and we were going to beat up an island where blackcock, hares, and woodcock were seen, and some shot yesterday ; and just as I was going the signal was made, ' Annul all leave ' — so we are done. "James Watt has joined, and now we have fourteen sail of the line. The French Austerlitz is outside somewhere, making fifteen. The impression here is that the Russian fleet will come out, if possible, before more ships join and try their fate. We ought to have twenty sail of the line to make us secure, as, besides twenty-seven sail, they have about twenty heavy frigates, while we have only three and two smaller ones. In paddle-steamers we should have the advantage, and in small screws. They have three screw-frigates like Arrogant!' The following was the reply from the Hydrographic Office :— " \Private.'\ "Admiralty, April 2^h, 1854. " Dear Sulivan,— Both Sir F. Beaufort and myself are especially mortified to find that you are running about 140 WAR WITH RUSSIA. [Ch. VI. with messages when you ought to be making yourself acquainted with the Gulf of Finland and buoying its shoals. Sooner or later the running one or more ships on shore will prove that your time has been wasted and your services and knowledge misapplied. Under all the circumstances of the case we think it better not to move officially in the affair, but to give a little more time, feeling convinced that ere long it will be found that you must take your natural position. It is all very well for Admiral Plumridge to dash on to the entrance of the gulf, but directly the fleet gets farther advanced they will find their mistake, regret not having allowed you to do your proper work, and bitterly regret having sent home pilots who had been twenty times at Cronstadt. " Thus much is certain, that the commander-in-chief must admit that you have been extremely useful to him, although not in the way intended. " I quite agree with you as to the Swedish pilots, and I hope you will say to Sir C. Napier every word you have written to me. It is of no use blinking the truth ; there are times in which one must speak out. There seems to me mighty little wisdom in some quarters in Stockholm ; the ridiculous accounts that have come home from time to time would be ludicrous if they did not involve a great stake. The moment I heard the rumour of the evacuation of the Aland Isles I said it was a case of double deceit ; not only did the Russians not intend to evacuate, but they meant to throw in more troops, and so it now appears they have done. And this in the face of a British fleet in the Baltic ! " Your pilot has just called on me ; he speaks of your kindness to him and of Mr. Cudlip's, and that he would be ready to go round the world with you. We have just heard of poor Foote's death ; it is very sad, and I hope will be a warning to the officers of the fleet that bar harbours are not to be trifled with in the wretched boats supplied to our ships. " With best wishes, " Ever yours, " John Washington." " Elgsnabben, Saturday, April igth. " We have had great part of yesterday and all to-day a north-east gale, with rain, sleet, and snow mixed, and the 1854-] HANKERINGS AFTER HANGO. 14I thermometer below the freezing-point at night and very Httle higher by day. It is just like a very bad winter's day at Falklands. The land is patched with white and looking very miserable, and yet this ought to be spring, if they have such a thing here. The people on shore will be very glad, for the weather has been so dry for the last month that they feared their growing crops failing. I have not been sorry to avoid this dirty weather outside, but we should look very foolish if a batch of Russian frigates were to push out while we are here and get through the Sound, dispersing over the Atlantic. We must be very careful now, as the ice must be nearly clear up to Cronstadt. There is a report of our going to attack some batteries at Hango, the north entrance to the Gulf of Finland ; but I can hardly fancy it is true, for there is little advantage to be gained ; and, though there are only three batteries, mounting less than forty guns, yet before they were destroyed we might have two or three ships crippled in their masts at least, and with only fourteen sail we cannot afford to risk any of them being disabled, when a Russian fleet so superior in number may take advantage of it and come out. We cannot afford to weaken our force either by loss of ships or men, for we have now ships with very reduced crews through sickness. The Royal George has sixty short of complement and a hundred and twenty on the sick-list ; other ships vary from sixty to forty sick ; but all are improving. The lower decks of the large ships must be bitterly cold. Our men with their comfortable stove on the lower deck are, I think, the best off of all, and the officers coming here from the large ships' large ward-rooms with no stove envy our officers their warm, snug gun-room. Yesterday I dined with Buckle in Valorous ; we had a regular Falkland evening, for the master was there in Champion. . . . " There are now no less than forty-one captains command- ing ships in the Baltic, including those we know are on their way out, and of these I come twenty-second in seniority. "There is very little done in the fleet in the way of exercise, except at the guns. The smartest ship in the fleet takes four minutes to take in two reefs and furl, but they work their guns much smarter. Shot are flying among the ships through every opening, and firing goes on nearly all day. I have been trying our shrapnel-shells 142 WAR WITH RUSSIA. [Ch. VI. from our eighteen-pounders, and at eleven hundred yards burst them beautifully at the target ; so I would not advise a gun-boat to come as close as that to us. But I believe their favourite range is fifteen hundred yards, and they use ricochet firing, their guns being close to the water, and not elevating much. I saw some similar gun- boats at Stockholm ; they mount one eight-inch gun aft and one thirty-two-pounder forward ; they can only fire directly ahead or astern, and they point the gun with the oars ; but a Swedish officer told me they fire very correctly with them. The guns are so low that if the water is smooth the ricochet fire would be very effective, but if there is any sea it must be difficult to fire them at all correctly. They carry sixty men each, who are terribly exposed to shell, but, at a distance at which they could strike a large ship every shot, it would be very difficult to hit them if they were spread far apart, each giving only a small object to fire at. If they came close to us, which they would only do if we got on shore, I think our Minie rifles would tell. Some of our men are getting very good shots with them up to four hundred yards ; our best shots are the stokers, and our best shot with the long guns is a man not long in the navy, who never fired a gun before. " Sunday, April y^th. — It seems we are never to have a quiet Sunday. This morning, about four, our signal was made to get up steam, and shortly after the master of the fleet came on board and gave me verbal orders from the chief to take him with a pilot to examine another channel out ; in fact, I was to take a junior officer in this vessel to do the very duty I was sent out to perform, without being con- sulted or even knowing what channel we were going to till I got there. This is certainly the climax of indignity, and if I could do it I would not remain here an hour longer. Not liking to let my feelings influence my conduct to the master of the fleet privately, or of course to delay for a moment the service, I did everything I could to assist him in the work. I found that the channel was one that I had mentioned to the chief the last time I dined with him as a better one — I thought — for the fleet to go out by than that by which they entered, and that of course led to his wishing it examined ; it was therefore more extraordinary his not sending me. I had a long talk with Commodore Seymour ; he also seemed quite to feel that I have been treated very differently from what my position entitled 1854.] "EVERY MAN TO HIS LAST." 1 43 me. I told him plainly that I could not continue much longer to retain the command if I were treated so that, even in my special piloting duties, a junior officer, who is not a surveyor, was sent in my vessel to do work of the kind without my being consulted in the slightest way or my opinion asked ; in fact, exactly as he would be sent in an admiral's tender or a lieutenant's command. I am not sorry for it, for it must bring things to a crisis, and anything is better than going on as I am. I mean to send the captain of the fleet extracts from Hotham's letters to the Admiralty, asking him to lay them before the chief, in hope that, when he knows how I did similar work before, he may be induced to put more confidence in me, for that if he does not I cannot possibly be the assistance in piloting the fleet that I ought, and that I know the Admiralty expect of me. This is the least I can do, and if that has no effect I must apply to him officially on the subject. " You may suppose it has not been very much like Sunday, though we had our regular services before dinner and a very attentive congregation. We go on very steadily — no complaints — and I have not heard an oath in her since I spoke to them about it at Woolwich. " Monday, May \st. — I have just heard the sad news of poor Foote of Conflict being drowned with four of his boat's crew off Memel. He is generally lamented, for he was one of the finest fellows in the service. To-day we have had very threatening weather with an exceedingly low glass, and we have wisely kept at anchor. The French ship Austerlitz arrived to day ; she is a lump of a ship, not nearly so handsome as our ninety-gun ships ; she looks like one of our block-ships enlarged. "May ■2nd. — Still detained by dirty weather. Arrogant is watching Gulf of Finland ; Esperance off Dager Ort with Archer ; Key with Amphion and Cruiser off southern entrance to Riga ; Euryalus and one or two others some- where else. " Evening, 2nd. — Buckle in Valorous and Glasse in Vulture were off early to examine the Aland Islands, reconnoitre Bomarsund, and intercept gun-boats, the very work that Washington in his last letter supposes I have some paddle- steamers doing. Buckle was very anxious to have me with him either in his ship or Lightning, as he said such work was quite new both to him and to Glasse. Every officer commanding steamers but myself has now been 144 WAR WITH RUSSIA. [Ch. VI. detached on such work, whilst I am the only one appointed for the purpose ! We are the only vessel that has no pilot at high pay." Captain Sulivan had been supplied by the Hydrographer with information and plans respecting Bomarsund, and had received a letter from him soon after the fleet had entered the Baltic with the expression, " We hope by this time you have found your way to Bomarsund and reported on it." The ships sent were too large for the work, and had ultimately to return without accomplishing anything. As mentioned, Captain Buckle had asked the admiral to send Sulivan to pilot his ships. Captain Sulivan told the admiral he had been sent out for these special duties, and tried to explain how useful the surveyors had been in China and in the Parana. But it was all useless. Commo- dore Seymour's support was likewise in vain. Thus, as will be seen, a whole month's valuable time was lost. "Admiralty, May ic,th, 1854, " My dear Sulivan, — Your note of the 30th is indeed very grievous : to bear slights of that kind is often more difficult than to bear injustice. Yet I say to thee, Bear on, submit, and do so moreover with a good grace and with a smiling face. It is, I well know, hard to do so, but you must handcuff your feelings whether the cuffs are hard or not. Things will soon come round. Washington and I are on the look-out ; but you must endure. The thought of asking for supei'session would in the present position of la chose publique be destruction to you. I have a clear second sight that prejudice and dulness will clear away, and allow your light to shine unshorn by either of those misty clouds. But again I say, or rather entreat you, to bear and forbear. "May i6tk. — Since writing the above Sir James Graham has seen and read your note ; and though, as you must well be aware, he cannot interfere in a direct manner, you may be confident that he will not lose sight of your position. {Signed) " F. BEAUFORT." CHAPTER VII. HANGO. " Off Gottska-Sando, May \^th, 1854. " My last from Elgsnabben would not have led you to suppose that I should immediately after get into the chiefs good graces ; but the vessel had hardly sailed when I was sent for, and the commodore told me the admiral had received a plan of mine for organising seamen-battalions which he was much pleased with, and was sorry it had not come before they did anything of the kind, and told me they wished me to adapt what had been done as well as I could to my plan. It is rather a hobby of the admiral's landing men as soldiers, so I suppose he was pleased to find others were interested in the same thing. He shortly after came out of his cabin, and, in a very different tone from what he had generally spoken to me, told me to go and read the letter from the Admiralty, as it was very compli- mentary to me, and then, for the first time since I joined him, spoke to me of my proper duties, asked me about buoying the shoals, and said he should soon want me at my work, and actually ordered Mr. Evans back to the ship — all, I believe, through the impulse of the moment, because he was pleased with a thing that had no bearing in any way on my duties here. You will recollect in my last that I had suggested to the admiral to take the fleet out by the wide channel south of Danziger Gatt, where you will see 35 and 31 in the chart. Had he done so he would have saved himself and others plenty of anxiety and his fleet from a great I'isk that it is wonderful they all escaped from. We sailed, or rather steamed, on the 6th, losing the whole of a beautiful afternoon. After the steam was up, by making each ship's signal separately to weigh, when the one before had got about half a mile off, it took three hours to start the whole ; and just after the last ship had started, and we were all spread over the length of the 145 10 146 HANGO. [Ch. VII. channel from Elgsnabben to Landsort, where there is either no anchorage or very deep water, one of these Bahic fogs rolled in from sea, and completely hid the ships from each other, with narrow passages between islands and rocks to find their way through. Half the fleet had passed my channel before it came on. Had the admiral taken my advice, they would have been out through it safely, instead of being caught in the very worst part with miles to go to Landsort passage. We kept sight of the flag-ship by keeping close on her bow, and when we were abreast of this channel they hailed me to haul out through it ahead of her. I hoped the next ship would see us and follow, and so on the others ; but it was too thick, though James Watt and the French ship were close behind us. We were in a few minutes out of all danger and at sea, while the others were all going on through the very worst part, and, to add to our troubles, it came on to blow hard in the night, and at daylight only Lightning and Duke were together, and it was blowing a gale from S.S.E. right in on the passage. The chief has since told me he never passed such an anxious night in his life, as he thought it impossible all could escape ; and so did I. About noon we saw several ships to windward, and the sea got up so heavily that, seeing we were half buried keeping alongside Duke, they made our signal, ' Act to the best of your judgment' I instantly bore up again for the passage, thinking it much better to lie in a comfortable anchorage than knock about outside, and I was also anxious to know if any ships had got on shore. The barometer being very low, I thought the gale would last some time, and, the da,y following being Sunday, I hoped to lay quiet inside till Monday. We found a tremendous sea running in among the islands and the rocks forming the channel ; but when I got inside I saw that several ships had put back and were lying comfortably in their old anchorage, and I also learnt that not the slightest accident had happened. Out of all the ships only three liners and one steamer failed to get out. How they escaped is most surprising. At the worst point of the channel the steamer towing Neptune, the James Watt, and the Frenchman found themselves huddled together, yet they kept clear ; Neptune and the Frenchman got out safely, /«;«^j Watt ^^ Scale of I Mile 5 ro Cables 4^n Do man S -~ v-' o Gust . ad.Fast^^ f. IGustafsauarcl Co I ° Han g ^ might easily conceal myself from those in the fort. I thought there might be men watching me from the island, and had doubts about going there, until I saw on one of the highest of the low stunted trees a hawk perched — that made me think no one could be there, and I foolishly pulled round into a channel not fifty yards wide ; but just as I was about to land, I felt that perhaps I was wrong, as there might be risk, and I could perhaps see what I wanted from another island. It was indeed Providence watching over me and the boat's crew ; for as we went on and pulled out of the narrow channel, we saw a party 1 54 HANGO. [Ch. VII. of soldiers running along the shore of Ryson Island to cut us off. You may suppose we pulled hard, and they ran as hard ; but by the time they reached the point of the island, we were nearly four hundred yards off. I feared they were riflemen ; and when I saw them form up, and their muskets flashing in the sun, I thought they would give us a volley, and took up a Mini6 rifle in the stern-sheets to return it ; but they never fired, so I took off my cap to them instead. Had we been three minutes later, we must have been all shot in the narrow channel, as the rocks quite overlooked it within thirty or forty yards. I ought to have known better than to put a boat in such a position. Even if I had landed, I ought to have pulled outside, and not risked the boat in a narrow creek. Had I landed, I must have been either killed or taken prisoner. It was indeed a most merciful Providence that made me turn away at the moment I was going to land. My boat had evidently been seen from the thirty-one-gun fort, and the meji had been sent across : as I saw them go back in a large boat I counted twenty-two of them. " I then crossed to an island, where I had a capital look at the batteries. I crawled along to the summit, and, with the glass resting on the rock, saw everything beautifully. The soldiers were crowding on every high rock near them, but they never attempted to fire any of the guns. I took care to have a good steep rock at hand to get behind when I saw the flash, had they done so. " The forts marked 4 and 6 guns I had only seen that morning from the Duke's topmast-head. We had not known of them before ; so wishing to have a good look at them, I went to the top of another little island, from which I saw into the rear of the forts, one pointing to the eastward, the other to the westward. As soon as they saw me, they shoved off a large boat full of soldiers, who landed on a small island opposite to where I was, so I wished them good-bye and got away before they reached the summit, as it was within musket-shot. I then returned, sounding as I came out, and we ran round to the fleet. I reported to the admiral that I could place four steamers, so that they could shell the thirty-one-gun battery, at a range of about two thousand two hundred yards, and that there would be only two guns bearing that way, while we could take all the chief fronts of the forts in flank and rear ; that the same ships could l8S4] THE RIGHT WAY TO ATTACK. I 55 afterwards shell the ten-gun battery ; while two others, or two of the same, could move on, and shell the flank and rear of the six- and four-gun batteries, where not a gun would bear on the ship. I also pointed out a position from which the fort could be flanked by two vessels through an opening to the eastward of Ryson Island. He seemed determined to try it, and ordered me to go to the eastward and find Iinp^rieuse, with the three paddle-steamers with her, and bring them back with me. Mind, I never gave any advice as to whether this place should be attacked or not — I have all along felt that if we did it most effectually it would be of little use to us, and not worth the risk, the loss, and the ammunition expended. All I have been anxious about is that, if it is to be attacked, care may be taken to do it in the most careful way, so as to have as little loss and damage as possible. " I returned this morning with the steamers, and was ordered by the chief to go round again and look at the channels and batteries. I took Nugent, the lieutenant of Engineers, with me, as he never gets sent anywhere, and has only got out of Duke when I have Jisked for him to come with me. We went round and anchored just out of shot, and pulled up in the gig under a little island, from which we got a capital look into the six- and four-gun batteries. When we. were lying flat on the top of the island, peeping with our glasses over the ridge, we saw them all watching us, and at last turn a gun towards us. I had seen them do it the day before ; but they did not elevate it enough to reach me — that I could see distinctly- — so I did not move ; but this time, while watching them, I saw its muzzle rise quite high enough ; so I jumped up and called Nugent to come, and we walked back a few yards, giving them a full view of us, to a nice high over-hanging rock, which we were under before a shot could have reached us ; but they did not fire- — not 1 suppose, being ready in time. We were about twelve hundred yards off', and about a thousand yards from the other forts, but looking at their flanks. I wonder they did not try the Minie rifles. We then went on, when, to my surprise, I saw Dragon come in and anchor only sixteen hundred yards from the large fort, and shortly after begin to fire. I hurried back, supposing I should have to bring in more steamers, as it seemed madness placing one alone at a distance that the 156 HANGO. [Ch. VII. forts could so easily hit, and I saw the shot striking her, as we went back a little outside her. I was ordered to take Magicienne and Basilisk under my orders, and take them where I proposed. I went on in Magicienne (as the other had to get her steam up), and anchored her where she saw into the flank and rear of the large fort at two thousand one hundred yards. Two guns from that fort and the two on the flank of the ten-gun battery fired at her, but the shot fell a hundred yards short, while her large ten-inch gun threw the shell into the fort. They burst a few shells well over Magicienne — I think from a mortar ; but none struck her. I then went back in my boat to meet Basilisk, and found Lightning close to Dragon. She had brought down the master of the fleet, who had first placed Dragon there, and certainly made a great mistake, as she was six hundred yards nearer than I proposed to place the shelling- steamers ; and though she hit the fort well, her shell made no impression on the stone walls or the earthen parapet. If they had been fired a little farther off, and so dropped into the fort, they would have been more effective. She had then a number of shot in her hull, one man killed and one wounded, and one shot close to her shell-room under water. I waited in Lightning till the master of the fleet returned, and then went on in her to meet Basilisk ; and just as I was taking her close to Magicienne, intending to place her so as to flank the six- and four-gun batteries, our signal was made to return, and mine to bring back Magicienne, and Dragon's to haul out. It was a perfect bungle, intended, I believe, only to try the range for shelling ; but the Dragon having been improperly placed so close made it look like a serious attack. I hope it is not going to be attacked, for it is not worth to us the loss and' damage the ships would meet with ; and, if he sends smaller ships in, they will be beaten, and the large ships will be obliged to join, and so compromise the whole squadron, and then, perhaps, let the fifteen sail of the line from Helsingfors, sixty miles off, come down on us while our ten sail are damaged, and have expended half their powder and shot, etc. "Monday, i^rd. — I have just been hauling a prize (not ours) off the rocks, and I hear the chief is really going to send in the block-ships and smaller ones to silence the batteries. I hope not, for the heavy battery has the guns so well mounted, the men out of sight, and a high parapet, that I854-] THE WRONG WAY. I 57 it may do great damage to several ships, if not beat them. That we must destroy it in the end is certain, but at a loss and risk that it is not worth. I believe the fact oi Arrogant and Hecla having silenced a battery on the coast and brought out a vessel makes him anxious to try it ; but they were small guns badly mounted. They did it very well, and only suffered from rifle -balls from numerous troops. . . . " I only wish the chief would try the effect of shelling the forts from every large gun in the fleet before putting ships alongside them. If we even silence the forts, and do not take possession and totally destroy them, we only do half our work, as they will soon repair them ; and as they have the mainland commanding the inner roads, they may drive our ships out, even if we have totally destroyed the forts, by bringing guns on the rise of land thickly wooded, and firing at long range on the anchorage. " The great mistake in placing the Dragon was, I think, made by the master of the fleet, from his ignorance of the principles of gunnery ; for when I gave the admiral the report in the morning, and pointed out that I would place two steamers in that line at two thousand two hundred yards' range, he said that the master of the fleet had found a place where a steamer could be sheltered from the fire of the fort behind an island, and that was the reason he placed her so near, and did not seem to understand it till I explained to him that a low island was no protection against guns on shore when they had the range, while it might prevent the ship hitting the fort from not seeing it with the sight, and that as the shot leaves the gun so much more horizontally than it falls, an island might actually prevent the ship firing, and yet the fort might hit her over it. . . . " I am sorry he has done anything at all here, as it is a petty kind of warfare for such a fleet." "Hango, May 2i,ih, 1854. " The admiral sent for me this morning, and I had a long talk with him about the forts, etc., and was glad to find I S 8 HANGO. [Ch. VII. that he had no intention of sending the ships in against them. But he seemed inclined still to try shelling at long range on the large fort, and asked me where the block -ships and steamers could be placed, so that he has fallen back on what I first suggested ; and had not the Dragon been so imprudently placed where she was and so got mauled, it would have been all right, and I believe he would not have fired a shot at all, which is certainly his best plan. The master of the fleet was present part of the time, and said that I was right. I had advised two thousand two hun- dred yards, and it was entirely his own doing that the distance was altered. The poor chief is really too shaky, nervous, and borne down by the responsibility to have such a charge on him. He has no plans or system, but the impulse of the moment alone guides him, and I trust we may have no serious thing to do, requiring careful plans and system. He is now thinking of Bomarsund ; but that is a stronger place, and would be far more difficult to attack. " 1 have been again with the chief for some time, and he has been asking me a great deal about attacking the batteries, where to place the ships, etc. Shortly after 1 was talking to the commodore about it, and telling him how I hoped the chief would not risk the ships for such a thing. I said that guns mounted as these were in their batteries would be very destructive to ships before they could be silenced. You recollect my dispute and corre- spondence about the Plymouth batteries, and my giving a decided opinion that guns mounted in a certain way ought to beat. any ships. These guns are mounted exactly in the way I said was the best. They are thirty-three feet above the water, behind a high parapet, the upper part of which is earth, no embrasures, and the men's heads not seen. There would be nothing but the muzzles of the guns showing, and from their height the lower guns of the ships could hardly see them, while the upper part of the ships would get every shot. We could, of course, with our force, destroy them all, but with far greater injury and loss to us than they are worth, as the ships that went alongside them would probably have to go home to repair. The large ship that went against the chief fort could not expect to escape without a hundred killed and wounded, and we want every ship and every man, in case the Russian fleet comes out. The commodore said Admiral Chads' opinion coincided exactly with mine, and he hoped that I had told 1 854-] SHIPS V. FORTS. I S9 the admiral so. I said that I had not had a chance, as he had never asked me whether it was worth attacking, or if the ships would be much damaged, but merely where ships could be best placed to attack it, and that 1 had feared to volunteer an opinion on a point on which he had not asked it. Just after the chief came up on the poop for me to point out more things to him, and he asked me plainly, ' Don't you think this ship would soon knock down that fort? ' I said it would be very difficult, as the solid masonry of granite would be difficult to batter, and that I thought the damage and loss to the ships would be of more importance than the place was worth. He said that was the real question, and we had a long talk about it. I think he will not do anything more, as he must see that perfect success here can have no bearing on the important points of the war, whilst it might compromise our superiority at sea. We have here only ten sail of the line, and fifteen of theirs are at Helsingfors, six hours' sail off, and the Cronstadt ones, of which fifteen at least are sea-going ships, are only a few hours more with this strong easterly wind; so we certainly ought not to risk our ships. Had there been a squadron here inside, then it would be our duty to destroy the forts to get at them, and they are not too strong to prevent our doing it, if anything like the destruction of a squadron could be secured by it. " I hope none of you ever speak of anything I say about the admiral or the fleet out of the family. If I were not confident this would be attended to by all, I should be afraid to write one-half I do. " 2^th. — I have been again for hours with the chief, who is on board the ship, and sends for me every now and then. He is still reluctant to give up the idea of attacking this place. He asked me if I thought the large fort could stand out for a moment against the fire of the Duke. 1 said that of course she, with other ships, could soon destroy it, but that she would probably suffer severely first, and other ships also, and perhaps have to go home for repairs, particularly if her lower masts were disabled. He allowed that the fear of the ship's lower masts was the most against it ; but as to going home for repairs, ' Why, no ship had to go home from Acre.' ' No, sir ; but at Acre they could not hit a line-of-battle ship at eight hundred yards ; here they hit the end of a small steamer at one thou- sand five hundred yards. We must compare it more with 1 60 HANGO. [Ch. VII. Algiers, where every ship was much damaged.' I then urged him, if he thought fit, to try every heavy gun in the squadron shelling at a long range, and so at least greatly shake it. I fear he will not be satisfied without trying it. " Two deserters came in a punt about twenty miles last night from near Degero, above Hango. The long creek to Baro above it is the place -where Arrogant and Hecla had their fight. I breakfasted with Yelverton and got all particulars. Arrogant grounded in the entrance just as she had destroyed the battery of four twenty-four-pounders. The Russian horse artillery had been most gallantly galloped down and unlimbered on the open beach under her fire within three hundred yards ; but our ships knocked over so many men that they galloped the horses down again to try to limber up under fire, and two guns were upset, one in the water. Several horses were killed, and at last the Russians cut the traces and left the two guns. The Arrogant got her anchors out and hove off, keeping the fire of the rifles down with grape. They saw one officer on horseback cut in two by a round-shot, and the deserter says it was the major commanding. They brought out the one vessel ; two others were aground, and they could have burnt them ; but I was glad to hear Yelverton say that he had not the heart to do so, as it could do them no good, and only perhaps ruin a poor man. Ekness was at his mercy, and they saw women and children flying from it and collecting outside, many well-dressed ladies among them, and the people removing their things. I said I wished he had sent a flag-of-truce in to say they had nothing to fear, as we should not fire at a defenceless town ; and he wishes he had done something of the kind. But I fear the old chief will not approve of any such Christian-like mode of conducting war, for he thinks Yelverton ought to have demanded the vessels on shore, or knocked the town down, if they were not given up ; but he agreed with me that nothing should induce him to fire a shot at defenceless houses, women, and children. The deserters are from gun-boats sent down there, and they say that three hundred of their troops were killed (this perhaps included wounded), and the next day all the inhabitants were ordered out of the town, so that they might burn it if a ship came again. " Though several round-shot struck both vessels, no one was hurt, except by rifle-bullets. The man in Arrogant (the l854-] "arrogant" and " HECLa's " ACTION. l6l captain of the gun) was killed by a ball on the main-deck through the port. It seems to have been a well-done thing b}- Yelverton and Hall. Hall led, and got several shots from the battery in his bows ; but when Arrogant got up in the narrow channel, and turned round about three hundred yards off, she gave it a broadside that completely silenced it It was a temporary battery hastily constructed. Hall has certainly opened the business ; and having a small but well-armed steamer, he will be in the best position possible. He said it was fortunate for us we had not remained with them, as having no bulwarks we must have been terribly exposed to the rifle-balls, which came like hail. It is a hint for us, and I shall take care, if we go near the shore, to have a good barricade of our hammocks, boxes, bags, etc., so as to be as much sheltered as if we had high bulwarks.* " The deserters also said that on the island sheep and cattle may be bought, and that there are no soldiers or arms there. So the admiral ordered me to go directly, taking men with me and the purser of the flag-ship, on a foraging expedition, and the men recommended one of the large islands outside Degero. The admiral was very urgent that I should not go near any armed people or risk being fired on, and I assured him I was quite as anxious on that head, but that there was little fear of our not keeping out of the way, unless in a new place we got on shore and the gun-boats came out ; so he has sent Gorgon with me, and we are only waiting till the weather moderates. There were poor Russian prisoners on board, taken in one of the merchant-ships, and the deserter Finn interpreted for them. They thought they were going to be shot, and the terror of a poor fellow in a sheep-skin coat was almost amusing : he said he had a mother, and he hoped we would let him go back to her. The poor fellow shook with terror, and pressed his hands to his chest as if in pain, and it was some time before we could convince him he was not to be shot, particularly as a party of marines were exercising on the deck above, and he could see them up the hatchway. They seemed to see that the officers with most stripes on their sleeves were the great men, and, directly one came near, down they went on their knees and put their heads on the deck ; and when at last they were ordered into the * What about the small craft of the present day in this respect ?— Ed. J I 1 62 HANGO. [Ch. VII. chief's cabin, they went down with such a flop that I thought they had broken their knees and heads. They looked much less terrified when they came out, and had been assured that when we went higher up they should be landed near where they had been taken. " To return. We went up the channel to Elgo Island, and I soon found these men knew nothing about the place, and that on the island where they wanted me to go there were two Russian telegraph stations. So at last I sent them to see what they could get in their own punt, telling them to tell the people they should be paid for everything they liked to sell. I then went in the gig with six men and Evans (all of course well armed), to see what I could pick up myself, and we soon came to an island, where in a little cove I saw several cows. I thought I saw some one ; so I landed and went in alone, thinking that would show they need not fear ; but I could find nothing but cows, and no sign of dwellings. Feeling sure the people would not have left their cows behind if they had fled, we pulled round the island till we came to some sheep and lambs on a point, and shortly after to a pretty cove among islands, where were several boats and nets and four or five cottages. As we pulled in I waved a white handkerchief, and soon we saw some heads peeping through a window, and as I landed one young woman walked down and met me, evidently in great alarm, and she looked dreadfully frightened as I shook hands with her ; then two more came out, equally frightened. (I had a good interpreter with me.) On going into the house, it was a most painful scene ! One poor old woman got up in a corner, put up her hands in an agony of terror, and cried bitterly. On a bed in a corner, huddled up, were three young women, also crying, and in all there were about eight or nine, including one girl of about twelve. It took some time quite to reassure them. They said they had been told we should murder them all if we came, and destroy all their property. The men had all been taken to work at new batteries where Arrogant and Hecla had been ; and, when the women saw me pulling in on the opposite side, they ran away, and all from the four houses collected in this one room for safety. They were in the act of heating a large brick oven to bake a batch of rye bread, enough to last a fortnight. The loaves are flat, about a foot in diameter, and have a hole in the I854-] FINNISH PEASANTS. 1 63 middle, through which they are strung on a stick. The women soon went on raking out the fire and putting the loaves in, and I got some potatoes to roast in the ashes. They had a bullock and some sheep they would sell ; so I sent off for the purser of the flag-ship, and a boat and the butcher from Basilisk. The women were all clean, modest- looking people, though very poor, and they were com- fortably dressed, some in English materials, and some in home-made. They could read, but had only a Prayer Book and an English Psalter. Freshwater, my coxswain, just reminded me of the Swedish tracts, and that made me ask if they had a Bible, but they had only the Psalter, so while they were killing the bullock I went off and got a large Swedish Bible and some tracts. We gave them £'>) \Os. for their little bullock, but the sheep were too poor. We also bought some fresh and salt fish from them, and I bought one of their little wooden spoons, to their great amusement. I brought them also some tea, sugar, and biscuit ; and when we left it was under very different circumstances than when we came. When I gave the old woman the Bible, she got hold of my hand and kissed it, and then all the others did the same. I thought they were going to give me other kisses, they got round me so. When I went off, I sent back some coffee in the punt, and they sent back some delicious cream, and we enjoyed a first-rate cup of tea with it. Egerton of Basilisk, the purser, Cudlip, and Evans dined with me, and then at 8 p.m. we weighed and ran out, getting here at 10.30 p.m. The chief was very civil, and I have been with him again to-day, and he now begins to treat me with some con- fidence. I heard that at his dinner-table a few days since the chief said to Admiral Chads that I was ' the most active man in the fleet.' So I hope I may be working myself into a position that may be useful to him. I believe he has quite given up all idea of attacking this place. I am glad to find that after all the Russian ships were not outside Helsingfors in the winter ; they are frozen in, in their own basin between the forts." CHAPTER VIII. RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. These letters, from two distinguished officers who accom- panied Captain Sulivan on the expedition about to be recorded, may be inserted here. The following extracts of a letter from Admiral the Hon. Sir A. A. Cochrane refer to this expedition : — " United Service Club, London, "March 2^th, 1894. " Dear Mr. Sulivan, — It has afforded me much gratification ■ to learn that you are about to publish the biography of your father." After giving a short account of the survey of Bomarsund, he adds : — " Throughout the whole affair, the ^lan, coolness, and courage of Captain Sulivan, bravely and skilfully seconded by the officers of Engineers, will always be remembered by me with admiration and respect. Captain Sulivan's able reports upon the batteries and the approaches to them enabled the Baltic fleets, English and French, under the pilotage or instructions of Captain Sulivan, to anchor in Bomarsund Bay. . . . " I entertairied the very highest opinion — as did, I believe, all my brother-officers — of Captain Sulivan's ability and devotion to the service, and of his sound judgment and for his coup-d'ceil in naval and military matters. He was a truly pious and good man, and was alike courteous, cool, and brave. " His death caused me sincere regret ; and when the hour arrives that England is involved in war and requires brilliant services, our navy will be fortunate if it possesses 164 •854-] comrades' testimony. i6s a few officers as resourceful and as modest as your late distinguished father, who served his country well, and who has now, alas ! passed from us. " I am yours, " Arthur A. Cochrane." From the late General Sir John Cowell, K.C.B., Master of Her Majesty's Household : — "Windsor, March loth, 1890. " Dear Mr. Sulivan, — It is probable that no one but those who have served with the late Admiral Sir B. J. Sulivan could form a correct conception of his character and ability, for he was of a most retiring disposition, and was seldom heard of, except in times of action. Yet there must be many living who have had opportunities of observing his qualities for command, either in the difficulties met with in the navigation of unknown or indifferently surveyed waters, or those incidental to every seaman or in the operations of maritime warfare. " Sir James's services were of a various character, and in each of these his abilities were conspicuous and universally acknowledged. . . . His ardent temperament was combined with a judgment which inspired confidence, and there was nothing more remarkable in the career of this truly good man than his utter forgetfulness of self and his desire to reward merit wherever he met with it. " Having been with him on many occasions during the Russian war in '54, when he was what may be termed ' pilot ' to the Baltic fleet, as his father had been to that of Nelson, I had opportunities of learning what he was, and I was often surprised at the accuracy of his forecasts as to what the soundings and lay of the land would be from a few casts of the lead. This intuitive power was remarkable, but he never presumed upon it beyond what he considered justifiable. . . . " That England may never be without such men is the fervent hope and belief of, " Yours very truly, "J. C. Cowell. "H. N. Sulivan, Esq." Sir John Cowell, alas ! has not lived to see this letter of his in print. Nor have several other friends who have sent 1 66 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. me letters about their old comrade-in-arms. Unavoidable delay in publishing this memoir has lost me the pleasure of being able to send them copies. It may be interesting here to add an extract from a letter written by Captain Sulivan from Led Sound on September 5th, 1854. Cowell had accidentally shot himself in the thigh with a revolver my father had lent to him. " I have been spending two hours with Cowell in the hospital-ship. He is the most intelligent of all the engineers, and I like talking over the professional questions with him better than with any one." " Near Bomarsund, Aland Islands, June ^th. " I have been so hard at work that I have been unable to write, and yet it has been the most interesting cruise I have yet had. On Sunday last (28th) the chief told me he wanted me to go to the Aland Islands at once ; but as he could hardly spare me two steamers, I asked for Driver, just come in. She draws only fourteen feet six inches. He gave me her, and I made a good selection, for she is far handier than any large steamer I have seen, is well handled, and her commander, Cochrane, a son of Lord Dundonald, is a most zealous, pleasant assistant, and I could not have hit on a better. Knowing that the admiral ought to have sent the senior engineer officer with me, as we were going to reconnoitre forts, I asked him to come with me, and the captain of the fleet got permission for him. Strange to say, the chief never seems to think of them, and at Hango even he never sent one till I asked for Nugent to go with me, and they say they never get out of the flag-ship except when I ask for them. I iind Nugent a most pleasant mess- mate, and I hope he is seriously inclined. There is never a day passes without his Bible being on the table among his plans, etc. I received orders to examine the channels to Bomarsund, to examine the forts, and to sound alongside them. Rather an amusing order, considering it is daylight all night, and it is an instance of the way the chief gives orders, for he never meant it, as he cautioned me against going too near, particularly to avoid the gun-boats, thirty of which were said to be here, and said he would ' have no fighting for fighting sake.' I assured him I was not so i854-] EXAMINING CHANNELS. 1 67 fond of it as that, and that he might rely upon my taking every care. A thick fog prevented our starting, so I had to run in the fog from ship to ship carrying messages. However, in the evening we were at anchor, and at six I had service on the lower deck. When it was over the fog had gone, so we had to start. It was a beautiful evening, and nearly calm. In the night we met three large boats running to the eastward for Hango, with six or seven men in each, and provisions. I thought they were men sent from the island to work at Hango or Eckness, and perhaps I ought to have stopped them ; but I could not find the heart to interfere with them, their boats being perhaps their all ; so I let them go. In the chart you will see ' Led Sound ' on the south side of the Aland Islands : to the eastward of that there is another passage into the same channel. We entered through that, as there is a track marked in the large chart, but found very bad rocks : once, with a boat near us, we saw the rocks under just in time to go astern. Driver being always close astern of us. At last we got in and found the sound, besides a fine clear anchor- age for some miles. Just near an east point of Lemland Island we saw a boat going in ; and wanting information about which islands had soldiers on them, and where their gun-boats were, we went in three boats after her ; but we only found the deserted boat and their provisions. There was a pretty farm, fine pasture, and cows, and we walked some way in, but only found barns. I left a shilling in the boat's head-sheets, to prove to them we did not want to injure them, and we then weighed and threaded our way through very intricate places, till we got in the evening off a village on the east side of the sound. The Swedish lieutenant was with us as interpreter in Driver. I pulled in in the gig with six hands and Nugent after several boats we saw pulling away from the village. I wanted as soon as possible to show them we were not their enemies, and they need not fear us ; but we found the village deserted, and the boats gone out of sight among the islands. After pulling some way, we saw two men in a large boat with wood. I waved a white handkerchief to them, but they left their boat, jumped into a skiff, and pulled for their lives, as they thought. Just as we got near them, they got through an intricate passage where we could not follow, and, as we pulled round, we had just time to see them land on the large island and run into the wood. l68 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. "On pulling round the next point, we came on a fine large village (Degerby), where in a moment there were men, •women, and children running in every direction. Several apparently respectable men halted at some nice houses a quarter of a mile off ; and as we pulled in, waving my white handkerchief, one old man, much too feeble to run, came to the jetty. Seeing no soldiers among the twenty or twenty-five men in the distance, we landed ; and after I had made friends with the ' old man ' a few others joined us, and those in the distance, seeing we did not murder these, mustered courage to come near. Among the first were two ladies, very nice looking and well dressed. There was a second large house, and the young ladies told me with great glee that the lady it belonged to was putting up some things to run away as fast as she could. At first we could only understand them through one gentleman, who ^poke a little bad English ; but soon 1 sent for Theorell, the Swedish lieutenant, who was with Cochrane in his gig. They had gone to the first village I had passed, and found every house deserted but one, and in that there was a crippled man, and he had made two women of his family remain with him : these promised to have milk ready as we returned. When Theorell came, I found that one of the large buildings was a Russian custom-house, and one of my friends was the collector, and in fact a government officer, and it became a question whether I ought not to seize him and the custom-house ; but after the way I had made friends with him, I could not think of it without giving him reason to consider I had broken faith, so I ■would not molest him. Some of the women brought out baskets of eggs, of which I bought about two hundred at one halfpenny each, dividing them afterwards with Driver and our officers. After staying about two hours, we parted the best of friends, they promising to let the other islanders know we should not injure them or their property. We got some milk from women at the other village on our return, and promised to send back their nice white pails, which we did, and I put a little coffee and sugar in them. The next morning we worked our way through most intricate passages (but I think I can get a line-of- battle ship through them), till we passed the narrow passage leading to Bomarsund, which is in the north-east corner of Lumpar Bay, the passage being round the north end of the island. But as that passage is so near the forts, where 1854.] THE GOVERNOR ASLEEP. 169 they have a regiment of Rifles of the Guard, and is only three hundred yards wide, with high wooded rocks on each side, I thought I would try to get in by one of the channels among the islands farther north. We got Liglitning through a very narrow one, with, I thought, three and a half fathoms water ; but the Driver following, touched in fourteen feet on a little point, and hung a few minutes. I then took her back outside, and went on with Lightning. We anchored a little inside, with one of the high tower forts about two miles from us over an island. I then ran in with my gig and three boats of Driver to the south- ward of Kalfliolm Island, keeping a sharp look-out on all the wooded points, and as we went passing not very flattering remarks on the talents or folly of the governor for letting us pass in this way, when a few rifles would have stopped us. We passed a nice village on Michelso Island, and then seeing no one, and there being a fine rocky cliff & h, II II ' * 1 1 " " 1 • ' ' 1 • , , , , ' ' , , ^ , 1 1 , , 1 1 1 1 1 1 • ' 1 1 tl '1 ■■ '.'I , u ■■ f •{•■ "•'•Ai THE LARGE FORT AT BOMARSUND. accessible on the west side of Michelso, we landed there to get a good look at and sketch of the forts. The large one, mounting ninety-two guns in casemates, exactly resembles a new terrace in a fashionable watering-place, the top having no guns, but a wooden roof to protect it from the weather. The long windows on the west side are all dwellings, I think. The dots show the casemates for guns, like square windows. The towers are just like two or three squares of the fort : there are three of them, each capable of mounting twenty-four guns, but having, I believe, only from ten to sixteen. I anchored a cutter off to look out and cover our retreat if necessary, sent another sounding, and we landed in the two gigs. I then planted four men as sentries a little inland among the trees, and Nugent, Cochrane, and I were lying down with glasses watching the forts and sketching. We were two thousand five hundred yards off, so I wonder they did not disturb us with a gun. We had nearly got all we wanted, when the cutter gave the alarm that a large party of men had landed on the island in our rear, where I have marked the 17° RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. A [see p. 222], and had boats there. I thought this the very- thing they ought to do, as it must oblige us to fight our way back. Cochrane and Nugent hurried to the boats, and I went to bring in my sentries, expecting to see the heads of these men appear every moment. We then hurried to the boats in anything but a dignified way, recalled the other cutter, and pulled back, but to my surprise saw no men on the shore, till I saw about five on the small island, so that instead of being cut off ourselves, we had a chance of cutting them off. We gave way in the gig, and soon left the other boats, and saw three men start in a little skiff and land opposite, and the skiff go back with one man, and, just before we reached the island, pushed off again with two others, one a person of some position by his dress ; but he appeared in a frantic state. I thought we had him, for we turned him from the first point, and I, only wishing to speak to him, waved a white handkerchief ; he waved another, but pulled the harder for another point. We gained every moment, and, when not thirty yards off, he was foolish enough to level a pistol at us. I had a rifle in my hand, thinking whether I should fire ahead of him to bring him to, but did not show it to him, and feared I should make him think I intended treating him as an enemy ; but had he fired the pistol I must certainly have shot him. However, I saw the boat was getting among stones, and I could catch him without firing, which I did not like to do, so I stopped and hailed him, showing him the white handkerchief; but it was no use — he reached the shore, and after laughing at us a minute took to his heels with his two men. That was close to the village ; so thinking he lived there, we pulled to it, leaving the large boats outside, and I landed and walked up with Theorell. We saw a number of men and women leaving ; but on getting near, could only see one man, who came to us on Theorell's hailing him, in great fear and trembling ; soon a second came, and the wife of the first, who was watching behind a house, was induced by his haiUng her to come also, but crying and in a great fright. They told us these people we had chased were from the fort and not belonging to the village : had I known that, I would certainly have been less delicate as to bringing them to at all hazards. We then returned on board, and moved the vessel out alongside our big brother, that we might be under his protection. I854-] UNINTERRUPTED OBSERVATIONS. 171 " The next morning we ran back to the entrance of the Ango Passage, as I felt confident they had taken no steps to oppose us there ; in fact, the governor seemed entirely to neglect his means to annoy us ; but as he had no gun-boats, he had no power afloat. The steamers under Buckle and Admiral Plumridge had been seen round the islands, and they had burnt some vessels, which, I suppose, prevented the gun-boats crossing from Abo. I forgot to say that just as we left our position on the rocks, and had started back in the boats, the fort fired a gun at us, but the shot did not come near us. At the entrance of the Ango Passage we had great difficulty in finding a channel between two islands, a rock with six feet of water on it nearly blocking it up. At last, by shaving very close, we led the Driver through ; but it was anxious work. We then ran up in a fine clear channel to Lumpar Bay, and anchored about three thousand yards from the forts. We then had a capital view of them, both from the Driver's mast-head and from the rocks on the cliff, our old position, and we got some soundings in the bay. I ran a line in the gig across at two thousand yards from the fort, and yet they did not fire at me, which I cannot account for ; and then, wishing to cut off a small vessel, I stopped her at two thousand yards from the fort, and turned her head towards the ship, to the great consternation of the six men and two women in her ; yet the fort never fired a shot to protect her. After getting all the information we could, we let her go, to their surprise, and we ran out again before dark, in case the governor should recover his senses and send some rifle-men to the shores of the channel in the night. " The next day we made our way to the northward, past our old anchorage. On our way to try and get down from the northward to the back of Bomarsund, and so see the forts and towers both sides, I wanted to get near behind the two towers. When near the large island to the north-east of Lumpar Bay, we found very shallow water, and had to anchor. There was a large village close by, so I went up to it ; and after getting one or two men not to run away, and Theorell talking to them, all soon came back, about twenty men, with plenty of women and children. We found that two steamers, probably Buckle and Glasse's, had been there, and burnt two vessels. The ships had anchored outside in the open, but sent their boats in. We found several coast- 172 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. ing-vessels sunk in a cove to save them from the Enghsh, and one nice schooner afloat, but empty. I found that the chief wealth of the poor people consists of these little vessels, and I assured them I would not injure or take one of them ; even the vessel afloat would not be worth the sending away men in her, and it would be, I think, cruel to burn her, particularly as all these islanders are much attached to Sweden and hate the Russians. I wanted a man to show us the best channel, but all were afraid ; so at last Theorell told me one seemed to know more than the others. I determined to take him ; so I put my hand on his arm and told him he must go with me, but that when I had done with him he should be landed and paid. He seemed terribly alarmed, but did not attempt to get away, and his young wife was in a sad fuss. His mother was the best : she advised him not to be afraid, and went for his jacket, but he said another man — pointing to him — knew best, so I took him also, but would not excuse the first. When we got them in the boat, they seemed quite satisfied. We found a good but very narrow channel for the ships for some miles, so we returned on board and started, but first landed the men. [The Lightning then ran on a rock.] She came off quite easily. We then went on to a good sheltered anchorage near the K in the word ' Kumblinge ' in the chart, and I tried hard to find a passage through the numerous islands to the westward, but found so many lumps of rock sticking up one and two fathoms that I could not attempt it ; so we remained there for the night. " The next morning (Friday, June 2nd) we ran out to clear water in the north-east, or what appears on the chart clear water, but is really dotted with islands and rocks. The glass being very low, and the beautiful weather we had before evidently changing, I got into a good anchorage to the northward of two larger islands, where there seemed a narrow but deep passage to the westward. It freshened to a sharp breeze, so I did not like to leave our snug berth, as in a sea-way it is impossible to see the rocks under water in time to avoid them. As it seemed a nice island near us, and there were plenty of ducks about, we determined to have a half-holiday for the forenoon ; so Nugent and I, in my gig, and Cochrane and Theorell in his, started. We explored one island, saw cattle, horses, and fences, but could not find a house ; we then went back (I having shot 1854] MAKING FRIENDS. 1 73 two ducks, our only game bagged), intending to try the passage to the westward, but it blew so hard that we gave it up, and crossed to a low rocky island with little wood. In the afternoon it moderated, and we proceeded through the passage, which we found very good. After running over one rock without touching, with only twelve feet over it, and just having time to save Driver going on it, and two more failures to find water enough where we wanted to go, we got quite round to the shore of the main island, on which ' Bomar Sound ' is written in the chart ; but the channel we must pass through again to go out is com- manded by a fine rocky and wooded point, a thousand yards off, and as it is only eight miles from the forts, and the governor has twelve horse-artillery guns, if he does not try to annoy us from there going back 1 shall have a worse opinion of him. The wind was freshening into a gale, and I was glad to get a nice safe anchorage under the south side of the same two islands we had before anchored the north side of, and about six miles from the forts. " Yesterday was a very dirty day, and blowing a gale at north, but in the evening it moderated a little, and we landed at a village, where no one ran away or seemed afraid ; but a nice family, father, mother, and daughter, received us with smiles, and we found that the news had come of our having treated the people well at the other islands. This family had a nice new log-house, very clean, like all the others, and with bed-places one above the other, built to one wall like berths in a ship, in the same room where they live and cook. This is the general plan with these little farmers, who have a few cattle and sheep, and a few acres of land in rye and potatoes, with plenty of good log barns, cow-sheds, etc., for their stock. A print of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert preparing for a ball, she putting her gloves on, hung alongside the King of Prussia and the Prince and Princess of Sweden. We bought a few sheep at four shillings and sixpence each. I got a very decent one. They have plenty of young lambs. You recollect Moresby, whom we saw at Falklands — Prevost's brother-in-law : he is first lieutenant of Driver, and a very nice fellow. I see much of him. He was with us on shore ; and he and I, being, I suppose, west-country men, hunted out a pan of the most delicious cream. I am sure you will allow this is much the nicest way to be 174 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. making war ! The most singular thing is, we got the best information about the forts from the eldest girl : she had been pressed with the rest of the population to work there, carrying up sand on to the top of the fort, — they have sand laid to the depth of three feet. The people were forced to work, but were all paid. We left in the evening, all well pleased. "This morning was very fine — the gale over. I had decided not to take the ships any farther, as the channels are intricate, but to sound them in the boats, and go as near as we could to the forts in the boats also, as we might have to put the ships near the main island within reach of their field-guns. The more I see of them, the more I am interested in the people. It is a pleasure to be able to establish such a feeling with them when they were taught to look upon us as enemies, who would treat them ill and plunder them. I hope to induce the admiral to order that no more of their vessels shall be burnt or their property injured. I much fear the French coming, as they will take all their stock at least, if they do no worse. 1 shall try to get the French admiral to give an order on the subject. To-morrow morning we start at 5 a.m. with four boats, and I trust we shall be protected and spared all bloodshed, as we have hitherto been ; but they are building a very large new fort nearer the deep water than the others, and I must ask the admiral to let me have two steamers, and prevent it by knocking their new work to pieces, which we can easily do at long range, as at two thousand yards from it the nearest guns they have will be two thousand five hundred yards off. " I have been so hard at work, also having much ' remark ' writing to do at night. I have therefore been obliged to write this on Sunday. The inconsistency of the chief is clearly shown by his refusing to allow me to go with Buckle and two steamers who were sent to do this very work a month since, 'because my vessel was unfit' Now he sends me with one steamer, and we do all required ; while the others, we find, had never got into the inside channels, which I do not wonder at, for they are enough to deter any one not used to such work. . . . " The gale lasted till Wednesday (7th), when, being moderate in the morning, we started with four boats, and l8;4.] NECESSITY OF TRAINED PIONEERS. 175 got down to a good position two miles from the forts, but we were prevented sounding nearer by the gale freshening again ; and as it blew right towards the forts w ith a bad sea I did not like to risk it, and we had to pull back six miles against it, dodging among the islands for shelter, our friend the governor again being very civil, for he did not even send a rifle near to the point of the main island which we had to pass. On our way back we stopped to rest on a small island. I let the men have a run. "In the evening it moderated, so we started and retraced our steps back to Ango Passage, going through the channels that had taken us so long to find in a few hours at full speed. We anchored off Ango Passage for the night, wishing to look for deeper water into it. This we found the next morning, and then we ran down the sound to the southward, sounding the parts we did not pass coming up, but the track through the clusters of islands marked on the chart as the usual route was more intricate and had less water than the one we had found on our way up. We saw a new vessel building on Huland, and two others lying near the southern channel you will see into Lumpar Bay. I landed at one building with Cochrane, and was received by about twenty men, ^\ho made a temporary jetty of logs for our boats to come alongside : she was a nice vessel of about a hundred and fifty tons. The others were island vessels of about the same size ; so I did not like to take them. I then crossed over towards Degerby, thinking I might get some stock there to take back to the fleet with us. I wished to take both our vessels up to the village, but the channel we first tried had only twelve feet between rocks a few yards apart ; so I anchored Driver and went on in Lightning, and anchored close off the custom-house, which was also the dwelling of our fat friend the collector, his wife being the lady who was packing up to start on our former visit. We told him that we must have stock, and would take them, paying the people for them. He said of course ^\e could take what we liked, and even told us the parties he thought would be best to apply to. I could not resist the fun of frightening him a little, and told him that, the house being a public building, we must seize it, and he, being a government officer, we must take him prisoner. He seemed to allow that it would not be surprising if I did ; but he was evidently terribly alarmed, so I asked him if he thought we could carry the house with us ; and as he 1/6 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. allowed we could not, he also allowed it would be our easiest way to burn it. But he said, though it was govern- ment property, it was also his residence, and a good deal inside was his, and that there were no goods belonging to the government, so he hoped we would not. After getting up rather a laugh against him among his friends present, I satisfied him that he and his house were quite safe. A party of us from both ships then started with a guide for a village inland, where they thought we could get stock ; but when we got there we found only a few lean sheep, except the ewes with lambs. Some of the lambs were just the size for eating and in nice order, but we could not persuade the people to sell them. They had killed off so many last winter from the want of fodder that they were now anxious to save all they could to get up their stocks again. About five, having got all we could, we wished them good-bye, and ran out to join Driver again. They told us before leaving that they wished we could have taken the government policeman away with us, but that he was away that day ; that he was a regular spy on them, and that he was one they could well spare ; and that if he had been there they would have pointed him out to us, that we might relieve them of him. This I have promised to do if I ever go there again. " The next day (Friday, 9th), after completing some soundings and finding a good channel out for large ships, we returned to Hango, our little Lightning doing pretty well, as she averaged eight and a half knots back, and obliged Driver to light all her fires to keep up with us. We found the fleet had left Hango ; but Penelope and Alban were there, so I spent a couple of hours with Cafifin and Otter, and then came on to this place — Baro Sound — the barometer being lower than ever we have had it. I was surprised to find the admiral outside at anchor off the Benskar Lighthouse : he received me very kindly, and seemed much pleased with all I had done, and after reading my report he said that it was a very good and complete one, and he was only sorry it did not give him better hopes of destroying Bomarsund with ships alone. I told him that as the bay in front was so narrow only three large ships could get within six hundred yards, and they would be exposed to the fire of all the towers at about fourteen hundred yards, in addition to the direct fire of the i8s4-] sulivan's report. 177 large fort. I thought the ships would not succeed, and the guns being all in casemates, and the tops bomb-proof, shelling at long range was useless ; but I asked him to send three or four steamers to knock down the new work they are at, which is intended for a very large fort to command the anchorage. We could knock it down at two thousand yards with solid shot, as it is new brick- work, and we see all the arches and the interior, and the other guns would be two thousand five hundred yards off, and could not hurt the steamers. They might bring their field-guns down on the point, but they would be easily silenced. If that fort is completed, the place will be doubly strong next year. The admiral asked me if I thought the bad weather over. I told him no, because the barometer was so very low, and we must have a breeze from the south- ward before it cleared off. He said that they thought it was all over, but I stuck to the barometer. Certainly it was a most injudicious thing to come out of a good port — Baro Sound — and anchor in the open gulf with a hospital- ship in company, with the glass lower than it has ever been since we entered the Baltic." Captain Sulivan's official report of his examination of the Aland Island passages and the fortress of Bomarsund is given almost in full in " Napier," p. 333, so it is needless to repeat it here. The conclusion is as follows : — " I trust, sir, that you will approve of my having refrained from destroying any of the coasting-vessels, the property of these islanders, and of my having assured them that they need not look upon us as enemies so long as they do not take up arms against us. " I cannot conclude this report without adding that I am much indebted to the assistance that I have received from Commander Cochrane and the boats of the Driver in getting the vessel through such very intricate passages, and the way in which that ship has been handled in this very difficult navigation reflects great credit on her commander." The opinion he formed was that " an attack by ships T2 178 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. \\ould be attended by a loss and risk too great to warrant the attempt, unless aided by a sufficient land -force to assist, first carrying the tower by assault or by regular approaches." This was the scheme ultimately adopted. " Baro Sound, Monday, June 12th. " Yesterday about 4 a.m. our signal was made wait, as I thought proper. It was blowing strong from south-west, and I gladly availed myself of it by running in here for shelter. We were in before eight, three steamers being anchored on the shoals to point out the entrance. We had a quiet Sunday until the evening, when all Admiral Corry's squadron came in, led by Alban. All the fleet are now here or outside, except Majestic and Boscawen. The French admiral is in sight, about twenty miles off, with seven sail of the line, etc." "Baro Sound, June \?ith, sent June 20th. "Since my last we have had little occurring worth mentioning. The fleet weighed from off Helsingfors (the chiefs squadron) when I took the news up of the French fleet being near. We joined off this anchorage, and with French flags at our main and English ones at theirs we went into the sound where Corry's division was at anchor. I had the captain of fleet on board, and we went to pay our respects to the French chief, having two other steamers with us to tow, as the French vessels were all sailing line- of-battle ships and frigates, and they only had five steamers of their own ; so when our screw fleet had passed, our steamers helped to tow the French ships, and Lightning led them in. The same day Magicienne arrived from Dantzig without a mail, but with plenty of bullocks ; and the next morning, our steam being up, but there being also a thick fog, I was told to take beef to the .ships off Helsingfors, a note from the captain of the fleet saying the admiral wished him to say how sorry he was he was obliged to send me on such a duty ! ! On our return we felt our way in, and got alongside the flag-ship, the fog as dense as ever. When I went on board her, the chief was sitting in the stern gallery with the admiral and captains that had been dining there standing round him ; he drew a chair alongside him, made me sit down on it, and immediately apologised for having had to send me on I854-] CHOLERA. 1 79 such a duty. I told him that I was very glad he had, for a larger steamer would not have been safe running in such a fog. Hardly a day passes now that he does not send for me, and we have a tete-a-tete discussion on different points, and I begin sometimes to get rather fearful that I shall be getting too much his adviser on some points for a junior officer. However, it is very pleasant, after being treated as I was, to find him treating me so differently. It has merely been from his liking my report of the Aland Islands, and of the opinions I have given him on points he has asked me about. And yet I never consider for a moment what I know he wishes, but gi^■e him my candid opinion, however differing from his. At present I think I may say I possess his entire confidence. A few evenings ago a small sloop was stealing along the channels. . . . We found her full of hay, and the crew consisted of husband, wife, and son, a boy about ten. We soon quieted the poor woman's fears by releasing the vessel. I was surprised to see in such a little vessel such a nice clean cabin, and a woman doing such work, yet neatly dressed, with a regular fashionable lady's monkey-jacket over-all, and very clean. She was very fair and clear-skinned, with auburn hair like many English women. She had in the cabin a small Testament and Psalter in one case. It is certainly not creditable to us as a nation that we should be so behind in education those we have previously considered half- barbarous Finns. They can hardly believe that numbers of people in England cannot read.* " A few days since the fleet was rather startled by three cases of cholera occurring in Duke of Wellington, and one man being dead and buried in six hours ; but no case has occurred since, several cases of diarrhoea having been checked at once. The fleet is really more healthy than at any previous time. A^^/«<«g's small-pox and scarlet fever have ceased, and all the ships' sick-lists are reduced. That the hot weather will bring more or less cholera in such a fleet I have little doubt, as it seems hanging about all the northern nations. The only wonder is that men whose skins rarely make acquaintance with cold water are as well as they are. If we could force every man to have a bucket of cold water poured over him daily, we should have much less sickness. We had one man in the sick-list for some days from no other cause than his neglect of cleanliness : * We have improved in this respect since this was v\;ritten. — Ed. l8o RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. they think when they have washed head, neck, and feet they are clean. The weather is now getting very warm and mosquitoes are coming. A few days since the ther- mometer was 40°, and I warmed my feet over a fire ; now I have got rid of the stove and got my carpet down, and with the skylight open the thermometer is 72". " The Vulture arrived yesterday, bringing the sad account of her boats and those of Odiit being beaten off with a loss of forty-six killed, wounded, and missing. Plumridge, with the four steamers, had taken possession of several places in the Gulf of Bothnia, and destroyed a good deal of property, in one place twenty thousand barrels of tar, and met no resistance till the two steamers sent by him reached that place. I think it is called Great Carleby. The steamers could not get within five miles of it, and the boats, with a hundred and eighty men under Lieutenant Wise of Vulture, pulled up. The accounts are very conflicting, and in the papers you may perhaps see the best news ; but from all I can gather he pulled in with a flag-of-truce first, and summoned them to surrender public property, and asked them to point out which was public and which private (they had concealed their force) ; but they refused to surrender or show him anything, and said they could defend the place, and would do so. Yet with this warning he returned to the boats, and pulled in for the large store-house without throwing a single shell from his howitzers to clear the way. The Odin's cutter was within twenty yards of the large wooden store, several hundred feet long, when a plank the whole length was let fall or removed, and out came a long tier of muskets or rifles. Ten men fell in the cutter the first volley ; but it appears Odin's other cutter dashed in and towed her out, their boats losing six killed and sixteen wounded — Lieutenant Carrington, Mr. Montague, a mate, and a mid killed. The Vulture's paddle-box boat was seen after the first fire with about eight oars pulling ; the other boats were pulling in to bring her out, when, on the smoke clearing a second time, they saw her drifting on shore without a man standing. It is feared they are all (twenty-two) killed or wounded. A mate named Murphy commanded her. Nothing has been heard of her since ; but of course her gun and flag were taken with her. The boats then did all the damage they could with their guns. Had they done it first, they might have saved such a disaster. It will be a good lesson against rashness and holding •854-] NAPIER'S SCHEME. l8l the enemy cheap. Perhaps the ease with which they had destroyed other places made , them too confident. At some former place some men — and, it is said, a mid — got drunk, and they set fire, among other things, to a house in which one of their own party lay drunk, and the next day they could only find a few of his bones and his knife. " Tuesday, 20th. — Otter came in — or rather out— in Alban to-day : he has been up among the bays at the head of the anchorage. Last night he landed with thirty men on the mainland, marched three miles to the telegraph, caught the three men stationed there, blew up the house, and brought back all the books and registers. It was rather a hazardous thing to do, as there was a party of Cossacks near, and they (Albans) came on the spot where they had been bivouacking. " We landed yesterday on an island 3,200 marines, besides artillery and seamen, with field-guns, of which we had about twenty : quite a little army. We can land nearly 4,000 seamen besides, and the French 3,000 troops and 2,000 sea- men, making an army of 12,000 men, with guns, sappers, and all complete. I wish they were better trained. We have not landed the seamen at all yet, though my plan is adopted for the organisation, and all is arranged. " A few days since I dined with Glanville. There were four captains present, all complaining of the disregard of the Sabbath, and three out of the four had tracts for dis- tribution to the Finns and Russians. The chaplain of Boscawen completed our party — a good man. They have daily prayers and two Sunday services. It is a pleasure to meet so many in the fleet attending to these things." On June nth Captain Sulivan returned from his re- connaissance of Bomarsund, and made his report to the admiral. On the 20th Sir Charles Napier wrote to the Admiralty (see "Napier," p. 186) on the subject of future operations. He says, referring to Bomarsund : " To attempt this, as we have no troops, it would be necessary for the whole fleet to proceed to the anchorage pointed out in Captain Sulivan's chart, leaving vessels in the entrance of the gulf only, to watch the Helsingfors squadron, land all the marines and the French troops, which would amount to 1 82 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. five thousand men, land a great number of heavy guns, and lay siege to Bomarsund, attacking at the same time in front, if found practicable ; if not, land five thousand seamen and make soldiers of them. I lean to this, and shall propose it to the French admiral. . . . Since writing thus far, I have been on board the French admiral. He has some doubts about the policy of attacking Bomarsund, as well as the propriety of doing it without troops." My father's note to this says : " This plan was the admiral's own. I told him it was quite practicable, and drew up a plan for the whole proceedings, in which Lieu- tenant Nugent, R.E., agreed. The admiral talked of carrying it by storm, but I persuaded him that we must land guns and knock the hill forts down, when the large fort could not hold out. Admirals Chads and Seymour quite approved, and urged the admiral to do it ; he had quite decided on it till he went to the French admiral, when, on account of orders to maintain a force in the Gulf of Finland, they decided on writing home and asking for permission to take the fleet to Aland." On p. i88 is recorded the approval of the Admiralty to Napier's waiting for authority. Sulivan remarks : " The Admiralty having approved of our not attacking it with the fleet alone, and their agreeing to send out troops, ought to have prevented the Government blaming the admiral for not taking the responsibility of going there with all his fleet without leave ! When the French admiral declined to attack Bomarsund without leave, he agreed that they should send home directly for permission to do it with the fleet, and he applied direct to his government. But the Emperor saw the chance of gaining military success by send- ing a division of troops, and our Government yielded and supplied ships to take the French soldiers out. The French general tried to prevent the navy taking any share in it, and. I854-] WHY NOT ADOPTED. 1 83 being supreme over both French services, he would not allow a French sailor or ship's gun to be landed ; but Napier insisted on landing his men and guns to share in the work. The French navy were bitter about it, and they felt they owed it to their admiral, who would not agree to Napier's plan in the first instance." The following notes are from a letter to a friend, written by Sulivan in 1856: — " The only thing that prevented the attempt was, I believe, that both French and English admirals were ordered to keep up a strict blockade of the Russian fleet, and particularly to prevent the Sweaborg division getting to Cronstadt, which must have been risked if the fleet went to Bomarsund. " The admirals therefore wrote home, offering to do it with the fleet, if allowed to withdraw it from the gulf. As their governments would not give their consent to this, but preferred sending out a land-force to do it, they must have considered the admirals did right in not withdrawing the fleet on their own responsibility ; and the two govern- ments are therefore solely answerable for having sent an additional force out. " It must not be forgotten that the opinion of the governments on the importance of preventing the Sweaborg division getting to Cronstadt was strongly supported by the English engineers (?). It cannot therefore be wondered at that the two admirals hesitated to withdraw the fleet without obtaining the sanction of their governments. " Without taking the whole of the large ships to the Aland Islands, we could not have landed men enough to carry on the siege. The screw-ships were all required, as the channels were so intricate ; and to have taken the marines from twelve or fourteen sailing-ships of the line, not very well manned, and to have left them to blockade twenty-six Russian ships of equal force, would have been running a risk that no admiral dare venture on. " It is therefore evident that the whole fleet must have gone to Led Sound, leaving a frigate squadron to watch the Gulf of Finland ; the screw-ships and steamers with the marines and some seamen from all the ships must have 1 84 RECONNOITRING BOMARSUND. [Ch. VIII. gone up to Bomarsund and commenced the siege, all being ready to embark at a moment's notice, leaving the heavy guns on land, in case the Russian fleet came far enough down the gulf to give a chance of catching them with the screw-ships ; after which the siege could have been pro- ceeded with, and our guns of course recovered. This was the plan approved of by Sir C. Napier, and it only required the sanction of the Home Government to have been carried out successfully." While awaiting the answer of the two governments to their proposal, the two admirals resolved to have a look at Cronstadt. As will be seen, the secret of a pending attack on Bomarsund was well kept. CHAPTER IX. RECONNOITRING CRONSTABT. "At anchor the east side of Seskar, " Saturday J June 2^thf 1^54. " On Wednesday Admiral Plumridge returned from his long trip. We were all surprised to find the fleet was to sail immediately. It soon became known that it was to look at Cronstadt. The twelve screw-.ships of our fleet were to go, leaving AJax, as too slow, with the sailing squadron. On Thursday afternoon we sailed, having six French line-of- battle ships (four towed by their own steamers and two by ours). Soon after we got outside, we went with the captain of the fleet to the French admiral, and then were sent back about twelve miles with a letter-bag for the sailing-ships. I went in a narrow direct passage that saved us a long round, and we soon got out again, and about lo p.m. overtook the fleet again. The admiral seemed doubtful if we could have been there and back, and asked me from the stern-walk, and, when he found we had, he called out, ' Well done ! ' We then went off directly to Euryaltis inshore off Helsingfors, to recall Arrogant and Bulldog to the admiral, and by the time I reached the Duke again it was three o'clock in the morning, and I was quite ready to lie down. Yesterday at eight we were ordered to take Porcupine with us, and go ahead to examine Hogland Anchorage (on the east side), and we soon left the fleet behind and led the way up the gulf, no ship having been so high before. The Poracpine is a very nice steamer, a little larger than Lightning, but with much more power : she was built for a surveying-vessel, and the Hydrographer asked for her for me instead of Lightning, but as she was in commission they could not change her commander. " We ran close round the south end of Hogland, watching each wooded headland to see if there was any battery or any troops to oppose us ; but we saw nothing till we came i8s 1 86 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. to rather a large village, where there were a number of women and children and a few men. There were two or three small schooners, and a number of boats of all kinds hauled up on the shore. Towards the north point is another and larger village, and the people stood in clusters watching us, and did not even drive away a herd of about twenty cows lying on the beach in front of the houses : it is evident they do not fear us. The women were all dressed exactly alike — a sort of loose white bodice and dark- coloured skirt. We completed all just as the fleet hove in sight. The anchorage is a bank near the shore, like Madeira, going off suddenly to thirty-five fathoms. Instead of anchoring, I found the admirals had determined to go on to Seskar Island, about twenty-five miles below Cronstadt. The chief asked me to remain to dinner. " About nine, when I left, the admiral sent me again ahead with Porcupine, to place her on the north point of the Seskar Banks to guide the fleet, and then I was to return to him. We reached the place about midnight, but it was so thick we could see nothing, and had to be guided entirely by the course and patent log. We hit the bank in four fathoms exactly, and again went back to the admiral. We found him anchored on account of the thick weather, and I was able to get to bed again at 3 a.m., not having been able to lie down all day. I slept till six, when 1 found we were under way, and I should have remained quiet had not our signal been made to chase a small craft between the banks to the southward ; so I had to remain on deck. We caught her at 7.30, and found her a little country schooner going over to the south shore, with nothing but stones in her : there were five men — Finns. I let her go, not thinking it right to detain her, but she has been brought in as a prize by another vessel that fell in with her after- wards ! I hope the chief will release her. " We anchored off this island about 1 1 a.m. We have lovely weather, but too warm. I fancy the smaller vessels will have a peep at Cronstadt, and that we shall take the lead in bearding the bear in his den. I suppose we are come up to try and tempt him out. We have only eighteen sail of the line. They have, I believe, twenty-four in Cronstadt, and eight the other side of us at Helsingfors. " The governor of Bomarsund has been dismissed, and a new one appointed, because he did not prevent our sounding the channels round it, nor attempt to oppose us at all. i854-j THE FLEETS OFF CRONSTADT. 1 87 " I am almost too sleepy to write, having only had six hours' sleep in the last forty-eight, and the weather so hot and close." " Running for Cronstadt, "Monday, II a.m., June idlh, 1854. " Yesterday we had a quiet Sabbath, though a beautiful day. This morning at four the whole fleet weighed. The chief has issued an order that, in consequence of the Russian flag being liable to be mistaken for ours, every ship in action is to hoist the yellow-blue- yellow pendant over the ensign at the peak and the jack at the main. I do not like it : our ensign ought to float at the peak below nothing. He might have made all hoist the white or red ensign instead of the blue, but nothing else. We are now running up in three lines, — Duke and her division the centre ; Admiral Chads the port ; and French ships in tow the starboard ; Imperieuse, Arrogant, and Desperate ahead three miles. The chief is very full of the infernal machines, for he has made several signals about looking out for them — as if the Russians would let us see where they are. They are all submerged, we know ; but to ensure the large ships against them, we in poor Lightning, instead of going ahead of all, are kept a quarter of a mile right ahead of Duke of Wellington, that we may explode any machine in her path. I have just seen the Russian fleet from the mast-head, and instead of being anchored high up the passage in line up and down the channel, I think they are in two lines across the channel ; if so, they cannot be high up, but near the lower batteries, and then we might reach them with our heavy guns. In the sketch the border-line shows the limits of the channel for large ships. " 4 p.m. — The fleet has anchored about eight miles from the lighthouse, and I have just been given the command of the inshore squadron. Lightning, Magicienne, and Bulldog, to go in and reconnoitre the fleet and batteries — Watson, with Imperieuse, Arrogant, and Desperate, \.o keep near out- side and support us if necessary. We are going to anchor for the night to the southward of the lighthouse, about five miles from the fort, and to-morrow early a French steamer is to join us and we go closer in. They have several steamers with steam up, but I do not think they will attack us. i88 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. " 1 1 p.m. — We have just returned from the lighthouse, where we had a fine view of Cronstadt and the fleet, but six miles off. I think there are not more than seventeen or eighteen sail of the line, and they are all moored above their batteries. My division is at anchor about a mile inside Watson's. A schooner came towards us as we approached, but is merely acting as guard-boat, for she turned back, and is now hovering outside the batteries. " Tuesday, 9 p.m. — This morning at 4 a.m. the French new steamer Phlegethon joined me ; the captain came on board, and said he was directed to place himself under 'light house Walker Gr Bontall sc- my orders. We then weighed with the four vessels and stood in. Lightning leading. The enemy's look-out steamer ran in as we got within shot. We stood on till we were within two miles, when I made the signal to the others to stop, and we went on to about two thousand five hundred yards from the grand fort (Risbank) ; but seeing them loading two very large guns on the flank nearest to us, and training them on us, I sheered out again to three thousand yards and then anchored, and had a most leisurely look at everything, getting a good sketch of port and ships and doing all we required. They had a large frigate-steamer and four others with steam up, but they did not move out. Their guard-steamer was evidently without guns, merely l8S4-] DISPOSITION OF THE RUSSIAN SHIPS. 1 89 a fast little vessel, and she got bolder and came nearer and nearer every time. She took a look at us ; but she being unarmed, I would not fire on her. One of my captains asked my signal for permission to fire, but I said ^No' We were doing all we wished quietly, and it might have forced their other steamers out, while we could have done no good if they had come, as they could have kept under their power- ful batteries. The two lines of ships I have marked are the positions we thought their ships were in from information, but we find them all above the batteries where I have marked the crosses, with their broadsides to the channels. There are only sixteen sail of the line, and a heavy frigate ready outside and one in the basin. There are three more as block-ships to the north-east, not rigged, and beyond them, to the north-east, three frigates ready for sea, and two frigates and one corvette block-ship. There is also one two-decker in dock. Having completed all, we ran out, joined Watson's squadron, and we all went on while I breakfasted with him, and then we led them all round to the north side, Watson's ships anchoring when pretty near. We ran on with the others, and I intended anchoring my squadron in five fathoms, and then going on to three in Lightning; but by this time it was blowing hard from the westward, and, not liking to anchor them in shallow water with a gale coming on, I hauled off a little to six fathoms, and we all anchored about three miles north of Cronstadt, and in front of their line of ships to the north-east, where they have also in line this evening thirteen heavy gun- boats, probably to annoy us at night ; but it blows too hard now. I have had three hours' sleep this afternoon, to be ready for anything to-night. It seems strange that we should be quietly lying at anchor within three miles ot such an enemy's fleet ; but it is all-important steam that enables us to do so. In the dusk they might push gun-boats within range unless a good look-out were kept, so I do not like to go to bed, particularly as we are the inshore vessel. A steamer has just been running rather far out on the other side, where we were this morning, but Desperate (which we left on that side to look out) has weighed and stood in, and the steamer ran back. I do not think they will attempt to molest. Their ships look rather slummy in their appearance ; and as they cannot evidently make up more than seventeen or eighteen sail of the line, it is impossible for them to come out : our English screw-ships igo RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. alone could destroy them. They are all placed to resist an attack, and evidently think of nothing else. The channel is certainly formidable and quite impregnable, as the following sketch of it will show. After passing all Breadth of Chan, the heavy forts below, if not destroyed by them, our leading ship would have all these hundred and twenty- four guns and two three-deckers' broadsides raking her, besides those of all the ships at longer distances on her starboard bow. If she could possibly survive all this and pass between the three-deckers, carrying away their bow- sprits, she would find the broadsides of three two-deckers close above pouring it into both bows. All their ships are moored head and stern, which, if you do not quite understand, I can thus explain. When Jim and Tom, at the Falklands, had the cat with one lasso on her head and another on her hind-leg, pulling in opposite directions, the poor thing was moored ' head and stern.' " When we landed at the lighthouse last night, we found the doors of the tower well locked ; but after some time I found a shed and stack of wood enabling me to reach a window in the upstairs passage from the house to the tower, and with a chisel we got in without breaking the window, forced open the tower door at the end of the passage, and then found all the stairs in perfect order : glass above only whitewashed to prevent our seeing through it, and the revolving-frame left — merely the lamps removed. " Wednesday, 2ist. — Hecla, with Odin and Valorous, have been shelling Bomarsund large fort, and burning part of the wooden roof; but I think it is not worth the shot and shell expended, for Hecla has fired away all hers, and the other ships must have wasted a good deal ; and the wooden roof was only to keep off snow : under it the roof is bomb- proof, and probably is not hurt the least. If so, it is a victory for the Russians, as the ships left off for want of shell, and had five men wounded. I could have burnt the roof more easily with a few rockets, but it was not worth trying. A mate of Hecla named Lucas threw overboard before it exploded a burning shell that came on board : l^54j NAPIER VIEWS THE FORTS. I9I every man had lain down to avoid the explosion. The admiral has applied for his promotion. " Thursday, 22nd. — I breakfasted with the chief this morn- ing ; and after a long discussion with him on charts, crews, gun-boats, bombarding batteries, etc., he took me with him to the French admiral, from whom I have just returned. The admiral will not go up to see Cronstadt till to-morrow afternoon. The old chief is frequently asking me whether I am sure he could go into the lighthouse safely, and seems half afraid of being caught. The cholera is increasing in some of the large ships, and they have lost several men within a few days : we have hitherto been most mercifully preserved from it, the one man ill from diarrhoea being now nearly well. But I hope the chief will move the fleet into the open water, north of Gothland, as it would be a much more healthy part, and we could blockade quite as well as here." " [Private.'] " ' Lightning,' July 1st, 1854. " The admiral went in in Driver yesterday afternoon : he would not go with us — I really believe because he wanted us to go ahead to explode any infernal machines before he came to them. His head is full of these things, though we have now run over all the ground outside the forts and actually are not blown up yet. I led him in the north side first, till he turned and then sent for me, and made me point out everything to him ; then we ran round to the grand position. We ran on some way ahead, and I hoped he would go where I had anchored before, three thousand yards off ; but before I reached that I saw they had placed a target with a flag exactly where we had anchored, and we heard single guns all day, probably practising at their longest range. We also fancied we saw several guns all pointed for one spot, so we stopped a little outside the flag, the admiral having previously stopped half a mile outside, and was hoisting our recall as we rounded to. I asked several officers to go who had had no chance before — Hewlett, captain of flag-ship, both the engineers, the master of flag-ship (a very nice fellow), the chaplain, lieutenant, and a volunteer. The admiral would not go to the lighthouse, so I got leave to go there, and we anchored ; and after all had dined with me, we spent some time in the beautiful evening on the top, returning to the fleet before dark." 192 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. "July yd, 1854. " Yesterday morning we moved from off Cronstadt down to Seskar. The afternoon before, after closing the mail, the chief told me to take all the captains and commanders in the fleet to see Cronstadt, and a signal was made that all who wished could go in Lightning. I had nearly- all, besides a few junior officers ; but the chief would only allow me to take them to the Hghthouse — not inside. We had a fine view of the fleet ; and I took a Russian prize — the first I have taken — mounting ten guns ; but they are wooden ones, and the vessel is so small that I am going to send it home as a present to the boys. We would not allow anything left in the lighthouse to be touched ; but I thought as I saw this little ugly model of a brig about a foot long, I might fairly take it.* " Yesterday we were moving about all day, so that I could not have service : the whole fleet was kept so long for the French sailing-ships to be towed. They are a sad drag on us, and yet they will not let us move alone. We anchored about 6 p.m. ; my signal was made directly, and I found the chief wanted me to run through Biorko Sound, to see if there was a passage for the fleet right through and out to the northward. He gave me Magicienne, Bulldog, and Desperate, under my orders, and he told me to tell Watson to take Arrogant and Impdrieuse, anchor the latter part of the way, and Arrogant near the sound, to enable us to communicate by signal. About 10 p.m. we anchored in the mouth of the sound ; and thinking that the narrow part at Koivasto would be fortified, and wanting daylight to look at it, we I'emained for the night. The admiral had given me positive in- junctions to have no fighting, saying he trusted entirely to my judgment to prevent it, and that if I got the ships into any scrape it would kill him. I promised faithfully I would do all I could to be peaceable ; but we saw before dark that there were a number of men on the point with the trees cleared away and a telegraph station, while the thick trees close behind would shelter riflemen. I was therefore in a puzzle. If we went on and they fired at us, we could not help having a fight, as we could not then go back, and yet it would be the thing I was positively ordered to avoid, and also there might be a sore feeling * The only Russian man-of-war taken during the war !— Ed, I854-] BIORKO SOUND — A MARE's NEST. 1 93 about no French ships being with us if we had a brush, for the French admiral says that if our fleet had an action, and he and his ships were out of the way, all the paving- stones in Paris would not be enough to throw at his head ! So after consulting with Watson, we agreed that if we saw any guns or preparations to resist our passing we would wait while I returned and got the admiral's leave to attack, and then I would take one of my ships and a French ship round by the north entrance, and so place them between two fires ; but that if we saw nothing to warrant our waiting we would go past, and, if they fired, then we would anchor round the point and destroy everything. As we could cross our fire over the narrow point every- where, we could bring off any guns there were. I would haul Lightning close in, bend a strong hawser to a gun, and steam off till we dragged it into deep water : in this way we could get them all off. This morning it was foggy, and we could see nothing for some time ; and fearing that if the other ships came close, and we found there were guns and the ships retired, it would look like a victory to them, I left the other ships below and ran up in Lightning cautiously, watching the point from the mast-head. I soon distinctly saw a long parapet among the trees, though masked with small trees, and I saw about a hundred and fifty soldiers in blue marching among the trees, and also a number of soldiers in grey about the parapet, whom I took for artillery. I afterwards went through another channel to get another view, and I stood up to within twelve hundred yards, in hopes of inducing them, if they had guns, to unmask them by firing on us ; but they never fired. I then agreed with Watson that we would go on, and if they attacked us the chief could not find fault with our returning their fire. We arranged that I should lead up, followed by Magicienne and Bulldog ; that Imperieuse should accompany us and lay right abreast of the point, and Desperate should be below it, to cut off the low neck ; while we, with the two other steamers, should cross the whole from above, so that not a man could leave the point over the low part across our fire or a gun be removed. We already speculated on how many guns we should get ! Now I think it would have been a very good plan, only it wanted one thing to complete it, and that was an enemy. As we ran up, expecting every moment to see them open, and got pretty close, I found that I was quite right as to 13 194 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. the battery ; there was the parapet, evidently just finished, the whole point covered in front by the trees felled to form an abattis, and plenty of men, whom we saw concealing themselves behind rocks, trees, etc. ; but there were no guns, and they had the prudence not to fire musketry ; so we did not fire at them, though we could have destroyed them, or perhaps even cut them off. The battery had been just prepared for guns, perhaps within a week or two. The parapet was of loose stones with clay, something like a Cornish fence or hedge, and covered neatly on its top and front with sods, and hidden by young trees planted before it ; so that 1 was quite right in my idea. And as under such circumstances there would be guns in nineteen cases out of twenty, I was right in taking precautions, as it would have ensured success with the least possible amount of loss, and nothing is so foolish as holding an enemy cheap. Perhaps I ought strictly to have fired at the soldiers ; but it would have been almost a barbarous cruelty to have poured in all kinds of destructive missiles amongst men only, who had no means of retaliating. We might perhaps have killed or mangled a hundred poor wretches or more, as I could see them crouching thickly among the trees, but it would have done no good. " So now you have full particulars of our peaceable fight, which we all laugh at now after the preparations we made. But, seriously, I do indeed feel deeply thankful that we were spared the necessity of forcing a passage, and that there was no bloodshed. We are too apt to think of the glory, honour, etc., of a successful despatch, and too many, I fear, would try to write one without thinking of the cost at which it was purchased. I do trust I may be able to set such ideas on one side, and to feel that the satisfaction of preventing unnecessary bloodshed is far more desirable. I am afraid some of my colleagues deem me much too merciful. I think this battery has been prepared for their field artillery, several batteries of which (twelve-pounders) are distributed along the coast ; and in case of wanting to place any to defend this passage, they have raised this parapet, fearing to put permanent guns, as we should have been sure to take them ; but if they had their field-guns there, it would have been just the same, for I do not think, gallant as they are, their artillery would have limbered up and carried guns off that point under such a cross-fire as we should have poured on them : they would, I think, have l854] FROM "boots" TO "PIONEER." I95 been limbered up by hawsers to the Lightnings stern, and danced down the beach to the full power of her engines. " We ran up the channel afterwards, several little coast- ing-vessels being deserted by their crews, who dropped the anchors and then got into their boats before we could catch them : at last, by pretending to pass some way from one and suddenly going full speed to her, and firing a rifle-ball over their heads, we caught her with the men. I have two Finns (deserters) on board, one speaking English, which is a great convenience. He hailed them — told them to drop their anchors and come in their boat ; they were terribly frightened — the master, a fine young man, and two others. After getting all the information I could, to their perfect astonishment I gave them a bottle of rum and a good lot of biscuit — two things they are fond of, though they do not drink to excess — and sent them back : they then said they had no idea we should let them go. They made sure they would be sent to England and put in prison. We ran back through the channel without anything occurring, and at 4 p.m. reached the fleet again. I trust there is a favour- able turn in the sickness, particularly in the Duke : no new cases, and those there are not bad ones. We all continue quite well. Johnson (the doctor) says he has found small doses of castor oil and turpentine check all cases of diarrhoea — castor oil almost in homoeopathic quantity, and not acting as a dose. " Cowell, the junior engineer officer, has just sent me a little coloured sketch of the lighthouse to which we have paid so many visits. " The chief was much pleased with what I did, and he asked my opinion about his movements and what could be done. He wants a good position on the north of the gulf, and asked me about one. I pointed out another I thought better for various reasons, and he seemed pleased with it. He wants to anchor the fleet in a good position, and then examine the shores, etc., with the steamers, to see if there is any place where we can do anything, and I fancy from what he said I shall have the detached squadron. What a change from the time I was doing a lieutenant's duty as admiral's tender, now entrusted with everything worth being sent about ! I really think Lightning herself feels proud of heading her squadron, for she steps out better than ever, and the large powerful steamers have to work pretty good power to keep their stations. I feel 196 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT.. [Ch. IX. the want of an armament for this work : we have now had to cut away our forecastle-rail and bulwark altogether, to enable us to put our two guns forward, as it is on the bows we want them going through these narrow channels." ••[Private.] " Sunday, July 2ncl, 1 854. " We weighed this morning from off Cronstadt, and are now standing down towards Seskar, but I hope going much farther down, I think it is almost the first time I was glad to move on a Sunday, for every day seemed adding to the victims of cholera, particularly in Duke of Wellington. Yesterday they had fifty cases of diarrhoea, eight of cholera, and two died in the previous night. I was on board her some time, and I urged the admiral to go right out of the gulf to Gottska-Sando, as the idea to the men would be everything. I believe even this change to a fresh air and a broader part of the gulf will do much good. We have only one case of diarrhoea, and that is getting well. What a mercy it is ! The last few days the cases have been milder and more like diarrhoea, and except the Duke's the cases have rarely terminated fatally. The change from the hot, sultry weather and the cooler water alongside is probably the cause, and now we have a nice fresh westerly wind, and we are all comfortably wearing blue trousers again. " I must not report about our movement in this, or it will be repeating what I must put in the journal ; but I must tell you what I do not like to put in the journal, as so many see it, and that is how I am getting credit for the work I do. When dining with Commodore Martin yester- day, after returning with my boat of captains from the lighthouse, I heard him in the evening talking in another part of his cabin (and I do not think he fancied I was within hearing, as I was with another group discussing a question). After some compliments to me, he said that it was a pity for many to go in ships looking at different parts of the enemy's position, as it showed them the point we were thinking of, but that Sulivan alone ought to go and examine it all, and report what could be done, as he had such good eyes for it. Yelverton told me that a French captain asked him what position I held, and if I belonged to the Hydrographic Ofifice, and whether I got better paid than any one else — -for I did all the work of 1854] BARO SOUND — SMALL-POX. I 97 the fleet. I trust that all this being so flattering, and my position with the admiral now so satisfactory and comfort- able also, will not make me think too much of these things, and forget to whom I owe the power and the health to do the work. One ought to live if possible regardless of all these things, when so many poor fellows are being taken in this sudden way. " If, as I trust, the war ends this year, and I am spared, I think I shall be sure of being able to get something worth having through the Hydrographic Department, but I feel now as if I would prefer being home to anything. As to going to sea again, if we have peace, for any advantage of serving time, I trust that will never be the path ordered for me by Providence. But how little one ought to care for all this, for how has everything been ordered better than we could arrange it ourselves ! More than ever must we endeavour to say and feel from our hearts that whilst we praise Him for the past we will trust the future entirely to Him — only I do desire that, whatever that future is to be, we may be together to share either the joys or the trials, so that we can either rejoice together or else comfort each other in times of trial. This is my greatest earthly desire, and there is no other that I ever think of in com- parison with it. "July ^th. — We started to-day towards Baro Sound. I hear Admiral Corry's squadron there is so sickly (chiefly small-pox) that he has gone outside, fearing the place is not healthy : perhaps that has brought the chief down. Some of my brother-officers, and the chief also, seem to think it would have been right to fire on those defenceless soldiers at Koivasto, but 1 am sure I did right. What good would it have done to our cause, or what credit to our navy, for five ships to pour their broadsides on two hundred defenceless men ? I could not do it. " Baro Sound, July yth. — Yesterday morning, on entering this sound, I was sent to place a steamer on one entrance shoal, and afterwards to go myself to the opposite side, where I found the buoy had been removed, probably cut off at night by the enemy, the place being left one night without a vessel. I found the rock, put down another buoy on it, and was waiting while Duke and French ships passed, the latter towed by steamers. They were half a mile nearly outside us, when one of the ninety-gun ships ran right on a rock we did not know of before, with 198 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. only three fathoms on it. She got off this morning, and I have been out to-day examining the place. We have had a very hot day. I am thankful to say the cholera is better, except in Majestic. She buried four men yester- day. The Duke's last cases were less severe, and she had only one to-day, not fatal. We are still preserved from it, and have only one case of diarrhoea, the same we have had for some days, and that improves slowly. To-night our men went to an island to bathe, and brought off a few most delicious Alpine strawberries. " Sunday, July gth. — The fleet has been coaling for the last few days and preparing to start somewhere. The Duke buried two men yesterday, and there have been three funerals to-day. The Princess Royal has a hundred and eighty men in the sick-list, and the Royal George a hundred and fifty, chiefly diarrhoea ; but the cases are milder, and to-day Duke has none. We had to coal after Alhan, and she did not finish till eight last night. Had it been any other day, I should have put it off till this morning ; but knowing we should be made to coal all to-day if not complete, I worked all night, watch and watch, having hot tea brewed for the men, thinking that for health the night would be better for working in than the hot day. It was our only chance of having any- thing like a Sabbath. We finished early this morning, and have had our usual service. I used the prayers 'for the time of pestilence' for those in the fleet who were suffering, and returned thanks for the mercy of being pre- served in perfect health in this vessel. Our only sick man was sent to duty to-day. I read a very nice sermon on ' a more convenient season,' as there was much in it applicable to the present time. Just after service my signal was made : it was to consult me about a report sent from a ship that had touched on a rock at the Aland Islands. I had afterwards a talk with the chaplain about the sick- ness on board, and asked him if there had been a general use of the prayer ' for the time of pestilence.' I found he had never used it, though he much wanted to, because the admiral would not have an allusion made to it in the service, saying it would depress the men. At first, when he touched in a sermon on the deaths that had taken place, he was told it would have a bad effect, and he must not allude to it again. Is not this sad ? "July loth. — We have a nice cool day, and the ther- i8S4-] SWEABORG SEEN AT LAST. 1 99 mometer only 62° — the ships all healthier. The fact is, it is the large screw-ships that have been unhealthy. The sailing-ships have not had a case of cholera. The heat of the engines confined under the deck seems to cause it. In Edinburgh they have their boilers confined under the after-part of the ship, and the cockpit, where the officers sleep, is terribly hot when steam is up. She has not had a case among the men, but three among the officers, though all have recovered." " Admiralty, y«^ 4^^, 1854. " My dear Sulivan, — All your letters charm me, but especially your last from Seskar, for it gave me the very agreeable intelligence that you had at last found your due level, and were employed in your pioneering, or rather leading, capacity. Your Bomarsund adventures also much gratified me, and your soundings were quickly inserted in the Aland chart. In the meantime I send you my heartiest wishes for the sustainment of your health, and the credit due to all your exertions in the chose publique. "Always yours, "F. Beaufort." "Baro Sound, Monday, July l^th, 1854. " The only thing worth mentioning since my last is our trip to Sweaborg (Helsingfors) on Tuesday last. The admiral sent me with a flag-of-truce to take a letter to the Russian admiral on the subject of the prisoners taken at Gamla Carleby. We started from this at S P-m- ^'^^ ^t 7 were steaming up the channel to Sweaborg. The Russians have removed a fine beacon on a small island, which used to form the leading-mark, and have re-erected it on another islet, thinking to deceive us and run us on a dangerous reef; but it was too palpable to deceive us a moment. They have actually put it in a position where, on with a very fine church, it clears us of the very reef they thought to run us on, while we ran up the channel full speed without ever checking the engines, so good are their charts and so easy to make out the proper marks even without the beacon, though both sides of the passage are for six miles bounded by rocks. When near the small island, and about two miles off the entrance, across which the admiral's three-decker is moored, she fired two blank guns, evidently as a signal that we were near enough. We 200 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. had hoisted a white flag eight miles outside : at first it was a sheet, but it was not large enough, so I hoisted a fine large table-cloth, and took half a sheet for the boat-flag. I went to about a mile and a half off, just out of gun-shot, when they fired another gun, and we anchored. I then pulled in as fast as I could in my boat, and saw a boat with a white flag coming out ; but as we pulled much the faster, we got within less than half a mile when we met, just as another gun was fired, as a hint we were too close. The lieutenant in the boat said he was ordered by the admiral to say the steamer was too close, and that if she did not move out he would be compelled to fire on her. I told him to give my compliments to the admiral, and I should be happy to move out a little if he wished it, but it would be useless his firing, as the vessel was out of shot. The officer seemed very nervous about his orders (I had a Russian interpreter with me, who also spoke French well) : he would not speak Russian, only French, apparently that his boat's crew might not hear. I had difficulty in persuading him to take the letter : when he did, I arranged that, if there was no answer forthcoming, the ship should hoist a flag at her fore ; if there was an answer, it should be sent out. I said I would meet the boat half-way, but he said I must not come in the boat again, as I had come too close now, but the letter should be sent to the ship. I then returned about 9 p.m., and shifted the vessel out about a quarter of a mile, and we lay all night waiting till i a.m., when, as what little dark there was was just closing, we saw a small steamer coming out : she brought two lieutenants in a boat with a letter. With difficulty could I get them to come up the ladder : when I did, they would only come to the top, and all my attempts at politeness would not get them inside. I asked them how the wounded men were. The answer was, ' We know nothing about anything : anything to be said is in the letter.' They were evidently afraid of compromising themselves, and had been told not to hold any communication verbally with us. As soon as they left we started, and, though too dark to see the marks clearly, we steamed out again at full speed. I dare say they were vexed at finding that, in spite of buoys and beacons being removed, and the tower shifted to another island, we could run in and out of their passage at full speed, as if we had known it before. I would not have any angles taken or drawings made, as we were under a flag-of-truce ; neither '854-] A WELL-KEPT SECRET. 201 did 1 have a leadsman in the chains while near, that they might not say we sounded under cover of the white flag. We got back to the admiral at 5 a.m. The answer was that nothing could be said of exchanging prisoners till they heard from the Emperor, and that the officer and seven men were killed, twelve wounded, and eight unhurt. " Last packet brought us the news that French troops were coming out, and set all the fleet wondering what is to be done. All sorts of reports are in vogue ; and being aware Admiral Chads and myself have been much with the chief, sometimes for hours at a time, and Nugent, the senior engineer, also, officers know that, whatever the plans are, we alone are in the secret, and that makes every one more curious. Till the news of the French troops coming reached us, no one had an idea that anything was in agitation, so well has the secret been kept for nearly a month. I only wonder it did not get out through the French, as the Fi'ench admiral was consulted, and that was my chief fear about it. The fact is, that so many letters of officers get published that it is not safe to let anything be known ; and some of them contain most arrant nonsense, that must make the writers ashamed when they see it in print. If I ever thought there was a possibility of a line I wrote being known beyond our own circle, I should never write a word on the subject of our movements again. I am glad to see that none of the papers know the real object of the troops coming out : even now it may be kept secret, or attention directed to other places than the true one. If so, you will probably be the only person outside the Government offices who will know all about it, and you certainly have been the only one during the last month who knew that there was something in preparation. You see the advantage of your large organ of secretiveness ! Had you not proved so often how close you could keep a thing, I could not have ventured to write privately to you on the subject. The mail to-day brought, among other reports, one that Riga is our object. A brother-captain has been here this minute trying to find out from me if it is true. ' Where are we going ? ' is the common question. I try to look very ignorant and innocent, and say, ' Have you not heard it is so and so?' (the last place reported). " I %th. — We sail to-day. I am now going to take buoys up, so evidently all the fleet are going. I go on ahead with some steamers to place them as marks for the big 202 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. ships. It is not certain yet whether I shall find a passage for the Duke. I have three feet of water more to find. If I succeed in getting her up, it will be a great thing." It will be well, I think, to give the following letter here ; it was written to his old Beagle messmate. Captain Hamond, of Fakenham, Norfolk : — " Guildford, 1856. " My dear Hamond,— I see that your neighbour the Marquis Townshend has defended Sir C. Napier against the attack of Sir R. Peel. I am glad he has done so ; for whatever may be said against Sir Charles on other points, it is most unjust to accuse him of want of courage in not attacking with a fleet a place against which it is impossible to place ships, so as fairly to try whether their broadsides or the batteries are the strongest. No one but a madman would have run his ships into a long, narrow channel, with at most a foot of water to spare, out of which they could not pass ; where there was hardly room for two ships abreast ; where the slightest yaw in the smoke must have put them on shore ; and where they would have been under the raking and cross fire of hundreds of heavy guns, against which they would have been able only to bring a few bow-guns to bear. The attempt could only have ended in the total destruction of every ship that went in. " On our way up the gulf I boarded an American from Cronstadt. The captain and supercargo were both in- telligent men. They said they had spoken to many Russian officers, who all allowed it was useless to bring their fleet out, as they could not contend with us at sea ; but said that their plan was to have their ships quite ready, to let Napier get his ships knocked to pieces against their batteries, and then to come out and finish the work. I took these persons to the admiral, to whom they repeated this statement. Common sense must show that this was the Russians' only safe plan ; and had Napier played their game for them, and the result had been their destroying our fleet and getting command of the Baltic and North Seas, those who have abused both him and the Government would have been the first to cry out against the madman who lost the fleet and the Admiralty that appointed him. " Those who contend that a fleet can destroy the strongest fortress should confine themselves to places '8S4] A DEFENCE OF NAPIER. 203 where there is space and depth enough to admit of ships being fairly placed against the batteries, such as Sevas- topol and Sweaborg. In both these places, if ships were not disabled on their approach by the raking and cross fire of shells from nearly two hundred heavy guns, they could get within short range of the nearest batteries ; but they would still be exposed to the fire of other batteries, especially earth-works placed higher and at longer ranges : these, aided by the broadsides of ships inside, would pro- bably destroy the attacking ships, even if they succeeded in silencing the batteries they were abreast of The suc- cess of two small batteries, so placed, at Sevastopol, on October 17th, against several of our large ships, shows what the result would have been if an attempt had been made against either Sevastopol or Sweaborg with the fleet alone. No one who knows anything on the question can doubt that it would have resulted in the destruction or disabling of the whole attacking force, and in giving the command of the Baltic or Black Sea to Russia during the summer of 1854. " It is extraordinary that the public expected only Napier and the Baltic fleet to perform such wonders. Why have the Black Sea admirals not been equally blamed because they did not take Sevastopol with the fleet alone ? " It is rather amusing to find ignorant persons talking and writing of what Nelson would have done, and to hear a line of block-ships and rafts at Copenhagen which he attacked compared to Cronstadt. If the Russian ships had anchored in line outside their batteries, can any one believe that Napier and Parseval would not have given as good an account of them as Nelson did of the Danish ships at Copenhagen in his almost drawn battle? For the batteries, though some distance from the attacking force, were so entirely uninjured, and, after beating off the frigates that attacked them, so annoyed the nearest ships, that Nelson was glad to avail himself of the first break in the action, caused by his flag-of-truce, to get his ships out of the channel. "If Sir Robert Peel had studied the naval history of the French war, he would have learnt that Nelson never attacked a battery with ships, except very slightly the first day at Teneriffe, when, thinking it impossible to succeed that way, be gave it up and tried to carry the place by storm. 204 RECONNOITRING CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. " At either Bastia or Calvi — I forget which — he opposed a proposal of the general's to bring the fleet in against the place, after a principal sea battery had been taken, on the ground that ' it had been proved ships could not stand the fire of batteries, now red-hot shot were used' A frigate had been burnt a short time before by red-hot shot from a small battery ; and the martello-tower, with one gun, had beaten off a line-of-battle ship and a frigate with great loss, setting them on fire in several places. " What would he have said if he had seen large ships so beaten by the fire of shell from a few guns as Alban and others were at Sevastopol? I should like to hear the opinions of such men as Sir Howard Douglas and Sir Harry Jones on the chance a fleet would have in the narrow channel at Cronstadt, even if the enemy were to let them get in as far as they could before they fired a shot. " These are no new opinions of mine, as I expressed the same strongly after witnessing the effect of firing against earthen batteries in the Parana. Before the failure at Sevastopol, I expressed my conviction that three guns in a well-constructed battery, properly placed, would beat off or destroy any ship in the world. This view I pressed strongly on the Government, when I tried to stop the erection of badly constructed stone batteries at Plymouth in 1846. " I saw more of the defences of Cronstadt than any other person in the fleet, having been entrusted with the close examination of them both years, and I spent many anxious days and nights trying to find an opening for doing something against them. The decision of the admirals both years was in accordance with the reports I gave them ; and as that is well known to those who served in the Baltic, I feel personally anxious that injustice should not be done to our services, which hitherto I feel has been the case. " To those who know the truth about Cronstadt, the opinion now expressed, that it could have been taken the first year, but has since been made impregnable, is really amusing. " As to attacking it with the large ships by the main channel, that was just as impossible the first season as the last. No additional defences were made on that side the first two seasons, and I believe none have been added since ; therefore, if it is unattackable now, it must have 1854-] THE FACTS REGARDING CRONSTADT. 205 been so then. We had no kind of force for any other mode of attack ; but no one was to blame for that, as gun- and mortar-boats had not been thought of then ; and even if we had been provided with a large force of gun-boats, we could not have succeeded. " The second year we were more ready, being in a position to attack it in the only way that gave a chance of success ; but we were prevented by circumstances that I cannot more particularly explain, but for which it is quite certain neither Admiralty nor admirals can be justly blamed. " This last summer, when the place has been pronounced impregnable, we should have been for the first time in a position to make the attempt. That it would have been made is certain, had the war gone on. That it would at least have been successful, so far as destroying the town and arsenal by a bombardment, I have no doubt whatever, for we know that the defences necessary to make it secure were only commenced last summer. That it would have further resulted in our destroying their fleet, , and even occupying the place, is, I think, possible. But of course the struggle would have been a severe one, and the whole mode of operations would have been so perfectly new in naval warfare that no one could be very confident as to the result, particularly as the natural obstacles were so very much in favour of the defenders. " I am sure that I could convince any practical man of the correctness of these views, by explaining them in detail on the plan of Cronstadt ; and, however the Grand Duke may now try to depreciate our services — or, more probably, to deceive his wondering and ignorant hearers — I am quite sure, by the nature of the exertions made during the war to increase the defences, that he knew well that it was impregnable against a direct attack by large ships from the first, and therefore he wisely directed all his efforts to the really weak points in the defence, which he knew quite as well as we did. " I do not for a moment wish to defend Sir Charles on every point, as there is no doubt that, if he had closely reconnoitred Sweaborg earlier in the season, it would have been seen how open it was to a bombardment with mortars, and that there were rocky islets at the right distance on which to place the mortars. Had that been seen by the beginning of June, mortars might have been sent out and 2q6 reconnoitring CRONSTADT. [Ch. IX. the place destroyed that season — that is, if there were thirteen-inch mortars and shell to send. But this I am not sure of, as their value seems to have been quite overlooked early in the war ; and out of fifteen we had at Sweaborg the following year, fourteen were new ones. " Sir Charles said, in his speech in the House, that it was not closely reconnoitred because those he sent could not find channels in on that side. If so, it was a great blunder on their parts ; for when I first went there on July 13th with a flag-of-truce, I went in at full speed by the Russian charts and leading-marks, without having a man in the chains. It was then too late to send mortars out that season, and the bombardment was managed more easily the next season by the placing mortars in vessels, instead of having the heavy job of landing them ; so that no public injury was caused, — only Admiral Dundas had the credit of doing it instead of Sir Charles Napier. " The only other thing that could have been done by the fleet was to have taken Bomarsund by landing seamen and marines.* " I wish those who are so ready to accuse our admirals of wanting the courage of Nelson and his followers would really study the career of Nelson, and also of Sir James Saumarez, one of Nelson's most distinguished seconds. He attacked three French ships at anchor, aided by two batteries, with six ships of the same class, and was beaten off, losing one ship. A few days after, with his damaged ships, he followed and defeated his late opponents, though, with the Spanish squadron that had joined them, they were double his force. No one who reads that account can doubt his firm determination to bring an enemy to action where he had the slightest chance of success, and it was certainly one of the most gallant actions of the war. But a few years after we find him opposed to a Russian force so inferior that two of his ships with the Swedish squadron had driven them into Port Baltic before he joined with the English fleet. The Russians had landed some guns and thrown up batteries to assist in the defence ; and Sir James, thinking they were in too good a position to be attacked, contented himself with blockading them. " If Sir Charles Napier and Admiral Parseval are to be so severely censured for not getting at the Russian fleet inside the strongest fortress in the world (against an attack by * See page 182 for the reasons why this was not done. i854-] nelson's tactics. 20/ ships), what would have been said of them if they had found an inferior force of the enemy in such a place as Port Baltic and had declined attacking it ? Yet Sir James Saumarez is one of our brightest examples. This will, I think, show how very unjust it is to compare the conduct of the Baltic admirals, who never found an enemy's ship outside their batteries, with that of Nelson and others, who never attempted to attack fortified places, however inferior to those in the Baltic, but persisted in long blockades, till they forced the enemy's fleet out to meet them, or caught them at anchor unprotected by batteries, as at the Nile. " Yours, etc., "B. J. SULIVAN." CHAPTER X. THE FALL OF BOMARSUND. "Aland Islands, Led Sound, "July i<^th, 1854. "On the 19th I left the fleet at anchor thirty miles out- side, and came on with three vessels, besides Lightning, to examine the passage in, before taking the fleet in. I had been unwell for two days, which made me rather unfit for the hard work that was to follow." Much difficulty was experienced in navigating the four vessels in a thick fog, and in seeking a way in amongst the rocks. It was evident there was no passage for a fleet. " All that day we were hard at work looking for a better passage in to the westward, through Led Sound. We found a safe but very narrow one, with five and a half fathoms, which we buoyed for nearly a mile ; and having placed buoys and two ships on outer shoals, and left Alban to examine farther, I got back to the fleet at 9 p.m., pass- ing through the islands close to Vitko Island. On the 2 1st, having left a squadron with Commodore Martin to return to the Gulf of Finland, and despatched Dauntless home, the fleet proceeded for this place, and we led them in about 9 p.m. " I had little doubt of finding a good passage for the large ships to Bomarsund ; but the admiral said I should take up the Edinburgh, Hogue, Blenheim, and Ajax first, with Amphion (my old friend and comrade Key), Alban, and Lightning, all under Admiral Chads. I went in Edinburgh, and we had an easy run for six miles, then anchored to find a better channel than my former one of four fathoms. I went in Lightning, soon found a narrow one, 208 I854-] " LIGHTNING " LEADS. 209 but with five and a half fathoms, bounded by rocks with only four, three, and two fathoms on them. We put some buoys down, and then I returned to Edinburgh, and we went on swimmingly through channels so narrow that the line- of-battle ships seemed like giants looking down on the small islands, and so right into Lumpar Bay in front of Bomarsund. But we passed very close to a rock I knew nothing of, nearly in the middle of the narrowest channel. Fortunately all the leading ships cleared it without know- ing it, but the last one, Ajax, ran on it : however, she came off directly with her engines, and followed us ; so that I may almost say I got them up without a mishap. Admiral Chads was greatly delighted ; and as Mr. Brierley, who sends sketches to the Illustrated, was, with a host of amateurs, in Lightning, I dare say you will see a sketch of it. It was the prettiest sight by far yet seen in the Baltic. To complete it, the enemy had built a new battery on a point with five heavy guns, and I saw it just in time to anchor half a mile farther out than I intended ; and I thought I had brought up Edinburgh at two thousand five hundred yards, but it was only about two thousand two hundred, and the guns opened on her and on Amphion, and threw the shot so unpleasantly close that Admiral Chads moved both ships farther out. All this made the scene more interesting. " I returned the same evening, but found the admiral would not let me take the large ships up : he had doubts whether he would take them up at all. So next day I was asked by the French admiral to take one of his ships with a number of oflficers and pilots to show them the channel, Evans at the same time having all the masters of our fleet in Lightning to go with me. We had a nice trip, and I proved the safety of the channel by running the French screw-steamers back in an hour and fifty-five minutes the distance of eighteen miles. Yesterday I had to start at 3 a.m. to pilot Gorgon into an intricate channel, where poor Buckle had Valorous aground, and so injured that, though off, she is leaking terribly. This was close to my old friends in the village of Degerby, where you will re- member the custom-house and collector and the nice ladies were. You may also recollect that the people complained of a Russian police officer being ' the very devil,' and wished I would take him away ; but he was not there then, and I said jokingly, ' If I ever come back, I will take him away 14 2IO BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. for you.' I waited up there a short time to go on shore and see my friends (some of those in the other ships had landed there). On the way to shore with Evans in the gig, I told the ship's crew that if they saw me pat a man very affectionately on the back to seize his arms behind and take him to the boat. On landing, all the people were indoors but the collector, who came gravely forward, bowing, till he came close and recognised me, when his countenance changed most wonderfully. He began shak- ing hands very energetically. I saw a lot of faces peeping out of one room. Soon all my lady friends rushed out of the door. They had not recognised me through the window till they saw the collector shake hands with me. Even the collector's old wife, whom you remember had been 'packing up to run away' when I first landed, ran out and shook my hand with both hers, as if she recollected my not burning the custom-house down ; and the nicest-looking young lady, the married one with the baby, ran in and brought out a most beautiful nosegay of roses of all kinds, which she gave me. I then com- plained to them all that the villagers were acting as our enemies, in spite of all I said when last here, as they were cutting away the buoys we put on rocks ; and I said that if they did not prevent it, I should have to burn all the boats of the nearest village, and, if that did not stop it, the village itself They said it was the police officer made the people do it, threatening if they refused to send them off to the fort. Shortly after a gentleman in a green uniform came, and told me he had charge of the place, and I saw he must be the very man. He certainly was a bold one. I soon after said I must have some sheep, etc., and as the people could not sell them I would take them and give the money. The gentleman in green said he would not allow it, and they should not take our money. I went up close to him and said, ' Then you mean to act as our enemy.' (I had an interpreter.) ' I cannot allow them to take the money. I have charge here, and it is my duty to pre- vent it.' ' Then,' I said, ' I must treat you as an enemy,' tapping him on the back at the same time. In an instant his arms were pinned, and he found himself in the embraces of three men, who walked him off to the boat. The ladies screamed ; the old Mrs. Collector got hold of my hand, went down on her knees, and cried terribly, saying he had a wife and seven children, the youngest only a year old. j8s4.] an official prisoner. 2 I I I told her I had just the same, but it would not prevent a Russian officer taking me prisoner ; and as this man avowed himself a Russian officer and acted against us, though he did his duty only, I was obliged to do mine and take him prisoner. Some of the younger ones screamed, one tall fine young woman went off nearly faint, and there was such a scene, but more with fright at the thing than care for him. I believe they thought they were all to be carried off. Soon his poor wife came down in terrible distress, and his eldest daughter begged me very hard to let him go, and almost tried my feelings too much ; but all I could promise was, I would take him to the admiral, and I would ask for him to be allowed to go to Bomarsund, where his family might join him, provided he promised not to return here, but that would rest entirely with the admiral. His wife went off with him ; and I, with two men, walked to our old village a mile inland, where the people had said they could not sell us lambs ; but, now they heard the police officer was gone, they were ready to sell anything. Evans and more men soon joined, and we took back several sheep and nice lambs at three shillings and sixpence each, milk, and cream ; and as we could not carry all, I took off my coat and backed a fine lamb. When I came back I invited the ladies off, and all but the old one accepted, and brought off the poor man's eldest daughter. The poor people on shore had been crowd- ing round me, begging me not to let him come back again. The ladies certainly did not seem to think I had done very wrong, or they would not have so readily come off. The husband of the nice-looking one stood on the jetty. I begged him to come, but he said he could not. I said I would keep all the ladies prisoners, and his wife too. He said he was quite willing to trust her with me. They remained an hour, had some wine, biscuits, figs, etc., admired your likeness, took a number of tracts, were rather surprised that the figure of England in Punch praying for the success of the war should be kneeling before a cross, and asked if the figure were not that of a Catholic. I assured them we were Protestants, and I gave the young mother a Swedish Testament for her little daughter when she could read, and then we parted the best of friends, though it was sad to see the poor wife and children taking leave. I think no one ever before captured a prisoner in an enemy's country, and at the same time had a party of six ladies on board to lunch." 2 1 2 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. "Napier," p. 315, records the progress of Admiral Chads' fleet to Bomarsund. This, then, was the first, attempt to take large ships up to the place. After aa hour's examination of the most difficult part. Captain Sulivan found sufficient water, and without any buoys or- marks took the ships up through the passages. This, exploit was never noticed by Napier in any way, nor in any despatch, but the return of the ships was signalled by a notice, after Captain .Sulivan had taught the masters the pilotage and buoyed the whole passage ! " Sunday, July ■ysth, 1 854. " I do not like writing on Sunday, except my private letter, but I could not possibly write to you at all if I did not. The whole week has been spent in one continual work of piloting ships either to Bomarsund or through the channels to the north-east, in buoying and marking the main channels to Bomarsund, reconnoitring the shores near Bomarsund to find the best landing-place, piloting the admiral up in Driver to see the place, and finding a new channel round from north to south of the fort without passing within range of the batteries. We have been work- ing from 4 a.m. to late in the evening, and yet expected to be back alongside the flag-ship every night, which we have only failed to do once, when I was too tired to return, and getting alongside Arrogant, Amphion, and Alban, my old shipmates Yelverton (Henry), Key, Otter, and I had a most pleasant evening together. One day Caffin, Scott, and Henry were sent with me with the masters of their ships to see the channels, and they said they had the most pleasant day they had spent in the Baltic. I had a letter to deliver at Degerby to his wife from the prisoner I took, and had orders to bring his clothes down, he being kept in Duke of Wellington ; so we all landed, had a walk to the village out in the country, got some cream and milk, called on all our lady friends, got lots of roses from the gardens, had a very kind reception even from the prisoner's wife, and, knowing that from the blockade they were deprived of all their common necessaries, I was in the act of sending on shore some coffee, sugar, and a few bottles of wine, when a boat came alongside, put a large 1854] ARRIVAL OF THE FRENCH TROOPS. 213 basket of green peas and a wooden milk-bucket of rasp- berries in the cutter, said they were for the captain, and pulled away before an answer could be given. Thinking we were about to start, they could have expected no return. It was a very nice way of showing a civility. I also had the luck to collect three hundred nice fresh eggs at a cost of five shillings per hundred — of course some are for my friends. " Yesterday I got to bed at 12.30 and slept till seven this morning, and was just congratulating myself on a quiet Sunday, when my signal was made, ' Get up steam and weigh instantly,' and a boat from Duke brought Moriarty the master — a very nice, excellent fellow, whom I like to have with me — to say that the squadron with troops was in sight, and I was to go out to pilot them in, Moriarty coming if I wanted more help. We met the four line-of-battle ships outside about twelve miles ; and sending Moriarty to St. Vincent and Evans to Royal William, so that we need not wait for them, I went to Hannibal, the commodore's ship, and we pushed on, followed by Algiers. On our way in we met the master of the fleet with a message to me that the admiral wished the two screw-ships inside him, and the two sailing three-deckers outside. It was a lovely morn- ing — a light breeze, not hot — and the ships crowded with troops in all colours. The fleet inside was anchored pretty thickly ; but I found no difficulty in helping the effect of the saluting, cheering, flags displayed, etc., by running first past a French liner, then between the two French admirals, cheered French fashion by each (hardly able to make the helmsmen hear me for the row) ; then close under Duke's stern, where cheering began English fashion ; and then brought up between Cumberland and James Watt. But to the surprise of every one the Algiers, instead of following, anchored outside with the sailing-ships ; and when Talbot came on board, he said that the master of the fleet had come on board and taken charge, saying he was to take her inside ; but that when he came near his heart failed him— he said he could not get her through the ships, that there was not room, and he anchored her outside ; so half the effect was lost. " You will recollect in my last my describing taking up a French steamer with the officers and pilots of the fleet to teach them the channels. The commander seemed intelli- gent, and took notes and sketches innumerable, marking 2 1 4 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. everything I told him on the chart, and I thought he seemed quite up to it. I told the admiral he seemed thoroughly to understand it. A few days after he went up again in his little vessel, and in coming down actually mistook the channel where it was most plain, and ran her into one where there was only one and a half fathoms water. Of course she was soon hard and fast, and the master of Edinburgh had to go to her assistance, and after getting her off pilot her down. So much for their attempting to pilot their own ships. I suppose it is no harm my telling my own friends that I met with plenty of compliments. One brother-officer asks, ' Do you ever sleep ? ' another, ' When are they going to give you a little rest ? ' ' How do you stand it ? ' etc., etc. The French admiral told me a few days since that he ' thought I must be made of iron,' and that he had felt it his duty to specially report to the Minister of Marine how much I had assisted them by my exertions. Another French officer asked Yelverton, ' What will they do for Captain Sulivan when he goes home ? What will they make him ? ' Hall is really a very fine fellow ; but after his coming into Cronstadt with the signal flying ' Have successfully bombarded Bomarsund,' every one who looks at the fort and sees only a few external marks of shot on the granite wall naturally laughs at the idea of their having at all injured the fort, or done more than burn a few wooden houses.* Buckle, who was there, laughs at it himself; yet the papers at home speak of it as if the fort had been silenced by three steamers, when now a whole fleet and ten thousand troops are going to attack it. It is too bad the way the papers publish directly false articles, A k'w days since we read, under the head of ' Surveying Work in the Baltic,' an account of the arduous duties in finding channels for the ships, .etc., and that among other ships that had taken a prominent part in it was the and three others, not one of which had ever taken the slightest share in it. Yet neither Lightning's nor Alban's name was mentioned in the article. This is a specimen of * Hecla's bombardment. — " So useless was this waste of shot and shell that the granite was scarcely marked, and the Russians, in derision, painted black marks near each hit to m,ark the spots. The forts, being casemated, the guns could not be elevated at long range, so that it could be shelled out of range of its guns. One might as well have thrown peas at the fort, as the bomb-proof roof had four feet of sand on it. The real force opposed to the steamers was the masked battery of field artillery, which came down to the point of the bay." l854-] A GOOD LANDING-PLACE. 2 I 5 the truth of such puffs. In fact, there are a set of people who try through their friends or by more direct means to puff themselves off, and make the public believe they do everything, while here they are laughed at. " We expect the French ships with the remaining troops on Tuesday, and I suppose by this day week they will be hard at it. I hardly expect the governor will surrender when summoned, as some think ; but I fancy, when the west hill fort is taken, he will see how useless it is to continue the defence, so that there will be very little to do. I think we have selected a nice landing-place — a smooth, grassy flat at the head of a cove, on which guns, etc., could be landed, and where I could run Lightning within a few yards, and close to it a nice steep rocky point, rising to a little hill, no trees to cover riflemen, and yet a strong position for the leading troops to hold and protect the others landing ; while at the entrance of the cove the Edinburgh may lay within a hundred yards of both shores and sweep them, so that nothing can oppose us ; besides which, we may tow all the boats four or five miles above, as if going to land at Castellholm, then turn and go fast back to the cove, before any soldiers could return there. They have only five hundred riflemen that they can venture to detach from the forts, and they will, I suppose, do all they can to check the advance ; but a regiment of the French chasseurs will be landed first, and they will soon deal with the riflemen if they make a stand. Our share of the whole thing will be trifling, as no seamen will, I believe, be landed, except a few with guns. The French commander-in-chief has gone to Stockholm, and will not be here for two or three days. " We continue to be quite free from sickness, and the fleet is generally healthy, though a case of cholera occurs now and then in a screw-ship. "It was a curious sight seeing a thousand French soldiers paraded on the deck of an English ninety-gun ship. They have got on capitally, all pleasant and mutually pleased. "Monday, sist. — We have been all day with General Jones, Commodore Grey, Captain Mundy, and all the engineer officers, showing them the forts north and south. On the north side the two round forts tried to reach us with shot, both by ricochet and direct fire ; but I kept just out of range, so they failed to hit us. I had eight to dinner with 2l6 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. me after leaving. I have since been with the general and commander-in-chief till late in the evening." "Led Sound, Wednesday, August 2nd. " Yesterday the two commanders-in-chief — Napier and Duchesne — the French general-in-chief, four other French generals, General Jones, and all their staffs, went in the Emperor's yacht to examine the place, Lightning going with them and leading through the channels. When we reached Bomarsund I went on board, as did Admiral Chads. It was evident they did not like taking the yacht close along the shore, as she drew more water than we did ; so they all, great and small, went on board Lightning, and what with colonels, naval captains, captains and lieutenants on the staff, etc., they crowded our deck under the awning from the main-mast to the wheel. I gave them a good look at everything, got in on the flank of the battery on the point recently constiucted where no gun could bear on us, and then went to , the landing-place in the bay Admiral Chads and I had looked at before, and of which the French general highly approved. After seeing everything, and shooting the poor forts tremendously with spy-glasses, and carrying off every bit of them on paper, they wanted to go round to the northward. 1 told them I could not take the yacht in that way, as it was too intricate ; so they all agreed to stay in Lightning, and meet the yacht on our return. On our way round I got lunch, in the shape of cheese, sardines, biscuit, wine, etc., on the table, and in turn had the whole party in the cabin, beginning with the ' great guns.' They seemed particularly well pleased with a very good cheese, and still more so with ale, which the Frenchmen pitched into uncommonly, and said was far better than wine. As we entered the northern harbour near the forts, I said to Evans I would go closer to-day, as we saw they could not reach us by three or four hundred yards yesterday, adding jokingly it would not be fair to the Russians not to give them a chance at such a party. Evans said, ' Take care, sir, they don't get a bag of extra strong powder to- day.' I then went aft and stopped her abreeist of the forts, and, as I thought, two hundred yards out of their range. I was talking to the general-in-chief and the admiral just abaft the main-mast, where all the six generals, three admirals, and the colonels were congregated, when one 1854J A TARGET OF NOTABLES. 2 1/ fort, the low one, fired a ricochet shot, which, after making fifteen ducks and drakes, ended a hundred and fifty yards short of us. The general asked me which fort was nearest. I said the high one by a hundred yards. As I spoke a gun flashed from it, and I was watching to see the shot coming, and how short it would fall, when to my surprise it rushed close over our heads abaft the main- mast, and fell about fifty yards beyond us. It was evident that they had an unusually large gun there, for it made a great noise. I did not wait for a second, but went on full speed, and kept her right off for two or three hundred yards more ; but no shot reached us again, and we went on examining the shore. It was a most providential thing its passing just over us. Had it been a little lower, or we fifty yards farther off, it would have come in among all the great men, who were so crowded that it must have made fearful havoc among them, and it would have been entirely my fault for going so close when there was no necessity for it ; but they certainly had never before thrown a shot so far by two hundred yards. On our way back I had to pass rather close, and the old admiral was at me about it, saying I ought to go farther off ; but I pointed out to him some nasty rocks near, and said I did not like going too close to them, as it was better to risk a shot than risk running her on shore in such a position, which he allowed. I assured him we would not pass within shot again ; and as they fired at us again in passing, the nearest shot did not come within a hundred yards, and most of them shorter by far. One shell burst nicely in exact direction, and high ; so that, had they cut their fuse better, it would have nearly reached us ; but it burst four hundred yards short of us. We then returned to- wards this place, met the yacht, put all the Frenchmen in her, and got back to the fleet at about 7 p.m. " If I was not pretty well proof against flattery, I should have had my head turned yesterday. The channels to the northward are particularly intricate, but we went on full speed in Lightning all the way, and astonished the big-wigs not a little, particularly the French general and admiral, as well as our chief and Chads, and I had many compli- ments paid me by all. Napier said, ' How did you ever find it all out ? It seems to me wonderful how the ships were ever got up here at all.' And he repeatedly inter- preted for me sundry speeches of the French chief One 2 1 8 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. person likened me to the dogs that dig for truffles in France. I suppose he meant that they find them by smell, and he thought I found the rocks the same way. When I showed them a rock under water a few feet from our side, with not more than four feet of water on it, they seemed greatly puzzled to know how I found them all. The chief told me that the French admiral had been writing most strongly about me to the Minister of Marine, and they would be sending me the Legion of Honour. At present I have really done nothing to deserve anything of the kind : the distinction would only have value if given for some real service, such as at Obligado. I have been up to-day with some captains and masters to show them the channel. The French captain, who commands a steamer, and was yesterday in the yacht, came to-day, before I was dressed, to ask me to give him some instruc- tion about the channel. I kept him to breakfast, and before it was over my signal was made, and I found it was to ask me about some arrangements and to go with him to the French admiral ; but just as we were going in the barge these captains and masters came, and I was sent off with them instead. One was Clifford, who was a youngster in Undaunted; another Broke. " On my return this evening I had another chat with the chief and General Jones about the plans, and to-morrow I am to be there at breakfast, that we may settle everything. The general is to land to the northward with seven hundred marines and his hundred sappers, to make a diversion in favour of the grand landing to the southward, where all the French will land. I shall have to arrange about the steamers that can get through the channel into the north- ward, as no one else knows the channel. I want to get Otter to have the leading of the vessels and boats of the other landing ; he is up to the northward with Plumridge, and I am doubtful if he can be back in time. We are only now waiting for the two French line-of-battle ships that ought to have been here also. I do not think there will be much, if any, resistance to the landing, as they will not know in time where we intend doing it." "Led Sound, Friday, August ^th. " We are still waiting for two French ships that have the artillery and sappers on board, and the general will not move till they come through, though our admiral and l854] PREPARING TO ATTACK. 2ig General Jones want to commence with the force in hand. Yesterday I took General Jones and Buckle up, the general wishing to have another look, and Buckle going merely to look at it and learn the channel. We found the enemy had burnt down all the houses outside the fort, so as to deprive us of any cover near it. I went to Edinburgh' s mast-head to get a good look at the inland portion of the ground our northern party have to go over after landing, and saw it was very favourable to us, — sloping gradually over clear land, with corn-fields, etc., and a village at the bottom, so that there is little or no cover for their riflemen for a mile beyond where we land and crown the ridge near the coast. This will be done, if opposed, under the fire of the vessels. I also saw that the besieging force must occupy a new work or entrenchment of some kind being thrown up on a hill, which was not known before. I believe eight hundred marines and marine artillery, with four field- pieces with seamen, will constitute our force, and the French add two thousand to it. I had this morning to settle the steamers, etc., with the French captain of the fleet. I am to have Driver and Pigmy, besides Lightning, and I have tried hard for Alban, but cannot get it settled yet. The French send four steamers that I have selected from- their draught of water for the shallow passages ; and I was nearly having the old Fulton also, that suffered so at Obligado. To-day I went up with some masters who had not seen the channel, and with Stewart, captain of Ter- magant, whom you will recollect in Rattlestiake at Falklands. On our arrival there we found the village on Presto Island opposite the large fort in flames. It had the best houses in the islands ; but they feared, I suppose, our advancing under their cover. This seems the first step in the horrors of war. It looks as if they intend to defend it to the last. " A deserter soldier and two convicts took a boat and escaped to our ships last night from the fort. " Saturday, ^th. — The French ships have just arrived, Vulture also. " It is now settled that I take Driver (our old friend and companion Cochrane, whom I have manoeuvred to get with us from th'e first, and prevented his being left up the gulf) and Pigmy with Lightning, and seven hundred marines and a hundred sappers. General Jones and his staff, four field-pieces from the block-ships manned by seamen, and our rocket-tube, which the general wants ; and I 220 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. claimed the privilege of landing our own men with it, so the gunner and ten men from us, with ten from some other ship, take it, and Cudlip (lieutenant of Lightning) will command. As he is the senior lieutenant in the fleet, it will ensure his promotion if he lands, so as to get his name mentioned. I take five French steamers under my orders, and old Fulton, that I so often piloted in Parana, with them. I understood at first I was to command afloat in the northern division ; but now Admiral Plumridge is to meet us there, which will cut me out. I have just left the French admiral, who waited to see me, and who was most anxious to know how I would get the French ships through the difficult channel. 1 told him I proposed putting an officer (Evans) in one in the middle of our line to keep it straight, and when we got to the difficult pass I would take them all through one at a time, and then we would go on in line again. He seemed quite delighted at my making sure of taking all through, and shook hands with both of his. In fact, I am a much greater man with the French than I shall ever be with our own service. Their captains come to me and consult me and ask my advice as if they were youngsters and I was their admiral. Mind; this is private, and must not be mentioned out of our own circle. If it were not for my feeling certain these things will never be mentioned out of it, I might be accused of egotism in writing them, but I know you expect to hear all particulars. " Sunday, August 6th. — This day has been like any- thing but Sunday. The admiral came on board Light- ning ^\s morning at nine, to go to both Admirals Plumridge and Chads and arrange all about the disembarkation of the troops to-morrow. The general and Admiral Seymour were with us, and we were busy all day, not getting back till near 7 p.m., when we found the mail arrived. I find General Jones is an old friend of Tucker's, and has often enjoyed the hospitality of Trematon : he is a very fine fellow. I wish we had other such clear heads ; but the difficulty of planning and arranging everything with the French chiefs is very great. The want of one head is very evident, and we have not very good managers to assist our chief, so that there is a sad want of method. Then there is too much desire on the part of certain persons in power to have all to do and to share out all the ships lying here, so that the captains of the senior ships have to He doing l854] THE DIFFICULTY OF SELECTION. 22 1 nothing ; and, even now that guns are sent from all the ships to put into batteries, they are not allowed to send men, but all is to be done by Admiral Chads' block-ships and the smaller steamers. I cannot help exerting the influence I have with the admiral to endeavour to get things managed justly to all ; and where that clashes with the wishes of some above me, they show that they think I have too much power — at least in one instance it has been so ; but I do not care, as I feel I have had no motive but the good of the service and the success of our attack with as little bloodshed as possible, which to me is of more importance than that certain parties should keep all to themselves. I have succeeded in getting two or three included in the business that would have been left out, but entirely from a desire to do them justice and from no other feeling. However, I think there are very few who do not believe I take a right view of these things, and I am very pleased to find that my views on most points have been confirmed by the great soldiers who now manage affairs. " We move the troops into the smaller steamers at i p.m. to-morrow and start directly, getting to our positions before evening, ready to land at daylight next morning. I take Driver, Pigmy, and three French vessels under my orders, and land eighteen hundred French and eight hundred English marines and sappers, four guns, and two rocket-tubes. Admiral Plumridge meets me at the landing-place and takes the command, bringing some steamers with him, and their paddle-boats for landing the troops. While at anchor to-day at Bomarsund three Russian deserters came down to the shore, and we brought them off. They are Polish Jews, and have been seven years here as soldiers. They gave us much information about the place. The houses outside and villages have been all burning the last two days, and they seem deter- mined to make a strong resistance. I do not expect to find the landing opposed on our side at least ; and as the general-in-chief leads with three thousand men in the first boat-loads, they cannot well be opposed either. " To have seen the old admiral with me to-day, no one would have supposed he could have let out at me as he did for a fancied error two days since. When several were discussing to-day the position some would hold, others being shared out, one of our leading men said that. 222 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. no matter what difference of opinion there might be about these points, there was none as to my position, for all felt that our great success lay in having brought such large ships where they thought it impossible, and that all the information they collect up there confirms this ; Degerbuf'^ U'aiker &nojitallsc. in fact, if all said was to be believed, I am to be made a ' bishop ' at least ! " Monday, "jth. — We are off with the troops, and we land at daylight to-morrow." A short outline of the operations will enable the journals •854-] HOW BOMARSUND FELL. 223 N to be followed more readily. It will be seen by the accom- panying plan that the large fort of Bomarsund was supported by the round towers of Tzee, Nottich, and Presto, and by the seven-gun battery at Tranvik Point. The latter was attacked and destroyed on August 8th by Captains Key and Desbois. On the same day the British force, of about seven hundred sailors and marines and seventy sappers, together with a covering force of two thousand French marines, were sent in vessels conducted by Captain Sulivan through an intricate channel to the landing-place chosen by him to the north of Bomarsund. Thence the guns (three short thirty-two-pounders, four field-guns, and the rocket-tube) were dragged over steep and rocky ground four and a half miles to the spot chosen for the battery, seven hundred and fifty yards north of Fort Tzee. The officers in command were Captain Ramsay, R.N., and Commander Preedy, R.N. On the same day the French force, conducted by Commander Otter, R.N., and numbering about ten thousand men, was landed to the west of Tranvik Point. They had fifty horses to help drag their guns (four long sixteen-pounders, and four thirteen-inch mortars) to the station fixed upon, four hundred and fifty yards west of Fort Tzee. The French battery, being ready early on the 13th, commenced firing without waiting for the British, and Fort Tzee surrendered the same evening. When ready, on the iSth, Captain Ramsay turned his guns — not now needed for Fort Tzee — against Fort Nottich, at a distance of nine hundred and fifty yards, and breached it in eight hours. Meanwhile Captain Pelham, R.N., had landed his ten-inch pivot-gun at Tranvik Point, and used it against Bomarsund. The combined fleet kept up a harmless fire against the fort, and the French general prepared his breaching battery north of Tranvik Point. The Russian general, seeing he was done for, surrendered, 2 24 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. and the commander of Fort Presto did likewise. Three of our ships to the north of Presto Island had joined in the bombardment. " BoMARSUND, Tuesday, August &th, 1854. " We got up all right yesterday. I got Driver through the difficult passage, and took all the troops up to the landing-place, meeting there Admiral Plumridge and his steamers. Otter had been there early, and had gone a mile inland to a village on the road the troops advance by, and saw no enemy ; so he goes now with the general as guide." Here follow regrets at his not receiving any position in connection with the action, and even not being allowed to remain to look on after the landing. " We heard firing, which was Key in Amphion, who' went in six hundred yards on the flank of a mud battery, which did not return a shot. He quickly sent the people out of it, landed, and spiked six guns. When we came the chief was in Bulldog, with Stromboli, firing long-range shot at the west tower, the French all landing, and the chasseurs on a hill about half a mile inland. The chief then came to Lightning and hoisted his flag, and we are now waiting for him while he has gone to see Admiral Chads. The forts are firing shell occasionally at the nearest ships : none came within four hundred yards of Bulldog, but they burst near enough Amphion to send a few bits beyond her. There will be little for the navy to do, except the men landed now from the block-ships with four field-guns — Cudlip with the gunner and ten men from here, and Wells and ten men from Driver with the rocket-tube, and the men who get the battering-guns up. I had General Jones and staff". Captain Mundy, and the chaplain of Duke with me. Dinner for six at 8 p.m.; beds in cabin for four; went to bed at 1 1.30 ; got up at 2 to breakfast ; landed at 3." "BoMARSUND, August nlh. " On Tuesday (8th) the troops all landed early. The chief hoisted his flag in Lightning, and, after taking him to one or two points, we took him round to the north to Admiral Plumridge, and then returned. All the troops advanced i854] SCENE ON SHORE — A BLUNDER. 2 25 without firing a shot, and closed the enemy up in their forts. Wednesday and Thursday (9th and loth) we were landing guns, stores, etc., the forts sending only an occa- sional shot or shell inland. The marines and seamen were rather exposed about fifteen hundred yards from the fort on the hill. The marines had bought a potato-field for ;^3 from the owners, and a number were digging potatoes, when a shell burst in the valley, scattering balls six ounces in weight. One hit the pillow of a lieu- tenant who was lying down, one went into our men's hut, and others in different directions, but hurt no one. I walked out to see the camps that evening. It was a curious scene, — ^the French advanced chasseurs, with their little tents, hidden under rocks or rise of ground ; the park of artillery behind some rocks ready for placing in battery ; thousands of men in red inexpressibles in every direction ; and the round fort on the hill looking down on all within good range, but only firing an occasional shot or shell. At the village headquarters there was a beautiful band playing while the general was at dinner. Several native women mixed with the soldiers listening, which I was glad to see, as it showed they were not ill-treated. People were at work getting in their hay and corn in one field, while in the corner of another several French soldiers had just dug a grave for a comrade alongside two others : all three died of cholera ; but they brought it from the ships, where it began to be very bad, — they are now very healthy. "We had an unfortunate occurrence on Friday (nth), by which some lives were lost. Admiral Chads has been anxious from the first to send ships through the channel round Presto Island near the fort, and to send two block- ships through, as it is difficult for them to get through the channels round outside. The admiral always seemed to object ; and when he asked me I told him that if there was any object worth risking lives for they might go through, but I thought not otherwise, as they must pass under the fire of the large fort. The day the troops landed (the 8th), when the chief and Admiral Chads were on board Lightning, the latter again spoke on the subject. The chief told me to bring him the chart. Admiral Chads said that a ship would not pass nearer the battery than two thousand five hundred yards. The admiral asked me, and I said two thousand one hundred, or at most two thou- sand two hundred. Admiral Chads said it was no such IS 226 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. thing. I could not get him to examine the charts for himself, so I let it alone, and pointed it out afterwards quietly to his son. The next day the admiral let a steamer go through, and no shot reached her. The morning after at breakfast he said to me, ' You see Admiral Chads was right and I was wrong.' I said, ' I suppose, sir, I was wrong also.' However, that morning we were coaling in the ship, and therefore, not having men to spare, Evans and I took the dinghy with only two men to get angles on a point of Michelso Island. Just afterwards we saw Penelope passing under the pilotage of the master of the fleet ; and just as she reached the nearest point to the fort, and the shot were reaching her, she ran on a rock, and could not back off again. We went to her directly, and were the first that reached her. Just as we got alongside we saw the splinters flying from her, showing that they were hitting her. While I was on board speaking to Caffin two more shot struck her, and others were passing over her. We got a lead-line, and Evans taking an oar, we sounded near her, to find the deep water. She was on the edge of a rock with five fathoms on the side farthest off the fort, and deep water ahead and astern. Even with only two or three boats sounding, the shot pitching round us came unpleasantly close. At one time two fell close on each side of our dinghy, the one on the off side passing the stern very close behind me. Seeing the Gladiator coming through the channel to assist, I pulled to meet her, and told her the deep side and where to go. Hecla at the same time having just arrived, came down the other way, and both got hold of Penelope. The fort soon struck them also. As we pa.ssed Hecla we saw the splinters fly from her quarter. As the boats began to assemble 1 feared they must be hit, but providentially only one was struck— a French boat, and one man killed. Seeing I could do no more good, and also seeing that the block-ships were getting up steam, and thinking they were going in to cover her, and I should be wanted to pilot them, I went back to Bulldog (the flag-ship) just as Buckle was ordered to take Valorous into long-shell range and shell the fort. I went to place her at two thousand five hundred yards, but was too close at first, so that the shot came over us, till we moved out a little and anchored just at the enemy's extreme range, only a shot or two going over and none striking Valorous, while she threw her shell well. Out of I854-] SOUNDING NEAR THE FORT. 22/ a few she fired there were four struck the roof of the fort. Just as the chief sent a boat for me to pilot them in Bulldog, the Penelope got off and the recall was made. She had two men killed and three wounded, and Hecla three wounded — a loss quite useless, and which might have been saved. Had I been piloting her, I have no doubt many would have cried out against the surveyors. How- ever, I believe no one was to blame, as the rock was not known before. The fault was sending her at all that way." In spite of Captain Sulivan telling him he was waiting till the bright moon was obscured, or rose later, to sound the bay closer to the fort, and that to go in on light nights would be useless and draw the attention of the enemy, the master of the fleet, with three large black boats, went in on a bright moonlight night, and was fired on at a thousand yards from the fort, outside the small bay. Two nights after, when cloudy, Captain Sulivan went in in a small boat painted light blue, the crew dressed in the same colour, and he was enabled to go closer in and examine the bay thoroughly five hundred yards from the fort. The buoys dropped at night and fixed by day showed the exact position the boats had been in. On page 360 of " Napier " the master's exploit is mentioned, with the name of every master who went near Bomarsund, but none of the work of the surveyors is referred to. Captain Sulivan again went close in another night. Commander Otter and Lieutenant Ward of Alban had landed and examined the line of advance for the troops for some distance the day before the attack, and guided the force on the advance, but no notice of this appeared in the despatches. " \Private.'\ " Sunday, August I'^th, 1854. " I succeeded in doing all I wanted that night, and was close in without being discovered, though the moon shone out brightly. To-day the fire from the French battery opened on the west tower, and with some effect. 228 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. Before breakfast we had to tow a collier, and then had a quiet day and our regular service. After dinner I went ashore with Key, and soon after we saw a white flag from the tower. I hoped it had surrendered, but it proved a false idea, for they have been firing as hard as ever since. I saw the general and returned with Key. He wanted me much to dine with him, as Hope was with him (three old Paranas) ; but I told him I preferred a quiet evening on board, and would not go. I had our evening service : one or two extra men and two engineers attended. I hoped to have written more to you to-night, but the admiral has ordered me to complete the soundings inshore to-night, and it is now past nine o'clock, so I shall not have a Sabbath to the end. There is one thing that would remove all hesitation on my part in doing it to-night, and that is that it is dark and gloomy — a fresh breeze, and by far the best night we have had for such work, and therefore the risk of men's lives is less, which makes it a work of necessity. I was in hopes to-day it was really all over with trifling bloodshed, but I fear it is to go on longer. "On Sunday (the 13th) the French got some sixteen- pounders in battery, and worked them all day against the west fort on the hill, while a cloud of chasseurs fired rifles at the casemates to prevent the enemy loading. In the night all was quiet ; but the tower was so shaken by the shot, that is the outer stones, and the swarms of rifle-shot had killed and wounded so many through the casemates, that this morning they did not fire a shot in return, and some chasseurs, running up, found the soldiers would not stand any longer, but gave up their arms. The commandant refused to surrender, and made a. pass with his sword at a chasseur, who bayoneted him : he is only wounded, and is in the French hospital-ship with his wife, who was sent off to him. [This gallant Russian officer afterwards died of his wounds.* — Later note written by Sir B. J. S.] * " Napier," p. 369, gives an account of the firing of the land batteries. Sulivan remarks in marginal notes : " The French general ordered our battery not to be prepared, saying theirs would not be ready, and then pushed on his own battery, and opened fire the morning of the 13th, hoping to prevent our having any share in the success. They had heavy siege-guns, sixteen-pounders, or about seventeen and a half English, and nearly the same charge of powder as our thirty-twos. If they had fired as well as our men, they ought to have 1854-J THE ATTACK A NARROW ESCAPE. 229 " Tuesday, 1 5^//. — Only time to give a short outline of an eventful day. I had to go at daybreak to put buoys down, and on returning at eight I found that the English battery had opened against the north tower, and a French mortar battery at the big fort, and a ten-inch gun, under Captain Pelham, mounted on shore in the old mud battery also. I forgot to say that the night before last I was sounding in before the battery when a panic seemed to seize them, and all the forts fired guns and muskets in all directions. It was a beautiful sight ! I knew they did not see us, and it was safer for us. The burning fuses of the shells showed the red tracks passing high and beyond us, and a good many were fired at the battery which Pelham was pre- paring for the ten-inch gun. I went to it on my way back, and saw them hard at work at a new parapet, all done by sailors, but beautiful work. I returned on board at two, and was up again at six. To-day I got leave from the admiral to go on shore on my return ; and with Evans, the chaplain of flag-ship, two marine officers, and my coxswain, we went to the scene of action. I wanted par- ticularly to see the rear of the large fort, and what effect our ships' fire — for several were shelling with heavy guns at long range — had on the fort. The west tower had been set on fire by the French, and the flames were coming through every casemate ; but I did not know there was powder in it. After trying with Freshwater (my coxswain), the others having left us, to look over Telegraph Hill (the rifle-balls were sounding over our heads too much to go there), I found a fine stone about twenty yards from the burning tower, over which I could look and see everything, with my cloak rolled up to put before my head to peep over. I had just seen several French officers and men near the tower, which made me think it safe, when in a moment there was a loud rumbling shock, breached Fort Tzee (the western fort). But the effect on the front of the fort was that it was only shghtly honeycombed ; no stone was displaced, as they had not put their shot into one place, but spread them over nearly the face of the tower. The fort was really taken by their riflemen, who killed so many of the enemy through the embrasures. From the delay caused by the French general's strategy, Captain Ramsay's battery was not built in time to join in the attack on Fort Tzee ; so later (15th) he turned his guns (only forty-two cwts.) against Fort Nottich, nine hundred and fifteen yards, at double the distance the French had fired at, and so good was the practice made that the fort was breached." 230 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. and I saw the tower in the air in a dark mass, that looked as if it would overwhelm us. It was an awful moment !' But I was given presence of mind to see that it was useless to run, as the masses of stone were flying beyond our position : they were then in the air, and as I looked up I saw them coming down in every direction. My eye caught one large one falling near me, and then a rather clear space with only splinters, two or three yards wide appa- rently. I had no cap on. I saw the thing was to avoid the big pieces, and try to keep on this open space, not minding the little stones. I moved one step on one side clear of the largest stone, and in another moment found myself unhurt, and saw Freshwater rolling down the rocks. I thought he was killed, but he got up almost unhurt : he had a slight blow on the shoulder. Now the special providence that preserved us was in this way : On all sides but one the fort went outwards, as well as into the air, and the mass was carried farther than our distance, enough to bury any number of men. On our side alone the outer wall stood for about one-sixth the circumference of the tower, and that saved us from instant death ; while the stones were prevented on that side flying out, and went right up into the air. Directly the stones had fallen I ran, fearing another explosion, and about fifty yards farther off met a French midshipman leaning against a rock, looking up as pale as death. I found he had been struck in the leg, and his trousers were torn ; but it was not much, and he soon walked pretty well. Evans and the others were about four hundred yards off, and the French soldiers were asking where the English captain was, as they had seen us go up. I then found a snug nook between two rocks, occupied by a chasseur, who had two sand-bags placed, and who fired at the casemates in the rear of the fort, where guns were firing in different directions, one right over our spot ; but it was as safe as possible, as we had only to sit down when the gun flashed, and everything, either shot or grape, whistled over us. I had a capital view of the rear and interior of the fort, and of the destruction going on from the shells of those fired from the ships : one-third only went in, the others falling short ; but the destruction was very great. I then went to the English breaching battery firing at the north tower to see the effect of the fire. There were two guns firing at the battery from that 4ti\ O « Id g p 'S ^J^^^ ,^^' l»^«%?^: .>;'; i8s4-] CAPTAIN Ramsay's battery. 231 tower and two from Presto Fort, so I watched the effect from a position a hundred yards from the fort, so that all the shot went well clear of me, and, watching when all had fired, I ran up under the safe sand-bag battery of the fort, where directly the enemy's guns flashed every one ran behind the parapet. I found Creyke in the battery : all the three guns had been struck, but all the day only one man was killed, one severely wounded, and several slightly touched. Old Ramsay, captain of Hague, was commanding, and in great glee at seeing the wall go down by wholesale under his guns ; but for want of rifles like the chasseurs to fire at the casemates, the enemy were loading and firing their guns through their ruined masonry. The one unfortunately killed is an engineer officer — the Hon. Mr. Wrottesley — who lost a brother last year in the Kaffir war. Having seen all I wanted there, I returned to my safe position near, and there watched while Ramsay's shot broke through the wall and opened the interior of the fort. The battery was entirely worked by seamen. Cudlip and our party had their turn at it to-day. " On my way back I paid another visit to my friend the chasseur, and had a good look at the big fort and the firing. The gun sent several shots over us, and I watched with my glass when the men showed to load it for the chasseur to fire. You may fancy what my feelings were and are at looking at the ruins of the fort that blew up. I shall not easily forget that moment. " I came off afterwards, giving the chief the first report of the tower being opened by our shot. I had to dine with the French admiral — the admirals, flag-captain, and myself being invited for Napoleon's fete day. I am now writing in a great hurry at 10 p.m.. Admiral Seymour lying asleep alongside me, ready to go with me at 2.30 a.m. to tow the boats through Presto Channel, to pass over eleven hundred English and French marines to occupy Presto Island. I believe all the ships are to assist in firing at the fort to-morrow morning. I am happy to say the north tower has shown a white flag to-night, and our marines are in it ; so Ramsay has done his work well. " \Private?\ August \^th. — I am sure you will agree with me that my preservation to-day, amid the falling ruins of the exploding fort, calls for special remembrance from us. How true ' God protects where thickest dangers come ' ! 232 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. One piece of wall standing was the means of saving us. I will try to get a sketch of it, to keep in remembrance of such a mercy. I hardly knew how to feel to-day at the compliments paid me at dinner with the French admiral. Many were in French from one to the other. I find the French admiral has specially requested that the Legion of Honour may be sent to me. Do not mention this. The chief says it is no use any one else going to the French admiral or officers about moving the ships, etc., but Captain Sulivan, but they will do anything he wishes. The old man seems rather proud of it, and not at all to think it strange. He said to-day he believed they were jealous of everything English, except Captain Sulivan, and that they seemed not to have the slightest jealousy of him. It would give you pleasure to hear the way all brother- officers speak of the credit due to me. There seems no jealousy of my position, but real friendly desire on all sides to see me rewarded. " Wednesday, i6th, 6 a.m. — We went through the Presto Channel at 3 a.m. with boats in tow : they never fired at us. We then passed over eleven hundred men and four guns, and anchored with two small vessels to cover the landing, if opposed. On our way back the fort fired several shots at us, but none struck us. Some of our steamers are in position for shelling at two thousand four hundred yards, but no move is made. French mortar battery and our ten-inch gun battery are throwing shell steadily into the fort. I think to-day may decide it ; but if they hold out to the very last, as some forts have done in olden times, they may stand two or three days' shelling yet." ^^ Saturday, August 19M, 1854. " The telegraph will, ere this, have told you of Bomarsund having fallen. Shortly after I had closed my last letters on Wednesday morning, I went on board the flag-ship and asked Admiral Chads if he did not think that our breaching battery might be turned on Presto Tower, as it was only fourteen hundred yards off, and at that distance, and from our being high above it, I thought we might do it much injury, if not silence it. He agreed with me, and spoke to the chief about it, and gave me a note to take to General Jones, asking him to try it. He also gave me a note to the French general-in-chief All this time a steady fire of shell was kept up both ashore and afloat, I854-] SURRENDER OF BOMARSUND. 233 and apparently with some effect, as. the roof was fast being destroyed. When I reached the French general, I found I had to settle with him the signals for the next day, as it was determined to send in ships to batter the front, while the French breaching battery made a breach in the rear, and when that was done another signal was to be made for our ships to cease firing, and then our storming parties were to advance and carry it by assault. Having settled the signals and left the general, I had a walk of nearly a mile to General Jones' camp. On my way you may suppose I thought much of the horrors of the following day, and most earnestly did I pray that the Almighty would so guide those on whom it depended as to prevent the necessity of its taking place. I had been about half an hour with General Jones, and we were just discussing our right to have a portion of the storming column formed from our marines, when a lieutenant galloped in saying the fort had surrendered unconditionally. We hurried off for it as fast as we could, but before we reached it I met Ramsay, who said, ' The admiral wants you.' And on my joining him outside the fort, I found it was to order me instantly to Led Sound, to direct Commander Grey to prepare his ships to take home two thousand Russian prisoners, so 1 lost the sight of the surrender and the troops laying down their arms. I think he might have thought of that, after my having so much to do with it ! However, all other feelings are sunk in those of gratitude that with so slight a loss the place has fallen in the very way I said from the first it should be attacked, though I little thought it would fall so easily. The fact is, the towers falling made the fort untenable, and knowing the breaching battery would be ready that night, and that there are weak walls in the rear of the fort that would not stand an hour, the governor very pi'operly surrendered before extreme measures were used. My report that the fort was protected against shelling by its bomb-proof roof, on which four feet of sand had been added, has been proved correct to the very letter. Not one shell out of the immense number thrown has gone through, so that the interior, both in casemates and officers' quarters, \s perfectly uninjured. The best way was to take the towers, and then the fort must fall. The whole loss in the fort does not exceed seven killed and about twenty wounded. Nearly the same number were killed and wounded in the 234 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. north fort that our batteries breached. It is an extra- ordinary sight to see the interior of that fort in the casemates immediately exposed to our shot — guns dis- mounted or disabled, and the whole wall for about twenty feet beaten in. It is extraordinary that three guns should have done so much work so well. The Russian com- mandant of that fort, when taken through our battery, asked where the other guns were, as he would not believe it had all been done by three guns, and latterly by two, as one was disabled. I fear people at home are too apt to measure the credit due by the number of killed and wounded, and so will think lightly of our work. They may well be astonished at the providence which preserved all but one through the dangers of a whole day ; and if they will consider that the men in that battery did their work coolly and quickly, under a fire in return which struck every gun and disabled one, and which, besides all the .shot and shell that came in through the embrasures or passed through parts of the parapet, lodged thirty-eight large shot in the parapet among the sand-bags, where they have been found in taking the bags away, I think they will be satisfied that our men deserve double credit for doing it all so carefully and with so slight a loss. " I have carefully examined the scene of my wonderful preservation from death by the fort blowing up. I was farther off than I thought, being forty-seven yards off, but in every other direction the ground is covered with the ruins above a hundred and fifty yards from it, and the heavy stones in the face of the building have been driven above two hundred yards, tearing up the ground like shot. At forty-seven yards the ruins are from ten to twenty feet deep, so that, had I been on any other spot, or had the wall on my side been blown out like the rest, we should have been buried deeply under the ruins. The shower of falling materials on my side was composed principally of bricks from the interior. They fell chiefly about twenty yards outside me, so that, had I run, I could hardly have escaped. Mr. Brierley, the artist, has made a sketch for me of the ruins, showing the standing wall, and the stones where I stood, with the masses of ruins right and left to treble the distance. It will remind me, should I ever for a moment forget it, of the merciful Providence that watched over me at that moment and throughout my life. Whilst watching the falling fragments, rifle-balls were singing past me. i854-] WHAT NEXT? 235 While behind my stone, with my cloak rolled up on it, I was well protected ; but as I got up and ran a yard or two till I stood still, they saw me to my feet from the fort, and of course popped away at me. You may perhaps think 1 had no business there at all, and certainly I was not sent on duty, but there were reasons why I ought to look at what was going on, and particularly to get a good sight of the rear of the fort, and watch the effect of our shelling, other- wise I could not give the admiral advice on many questions he was Hkely to put to me, so that it was my duty to obtain all the information and knowledge I could of the place. 1 was to the admiral in the position of an engineer officer, and might at any moment have had to give an opinion on the use of shelling, battering, or assaulting. I have received many congratulations from brother-officers on the share I have had in the success. There has been much ill-feeling and jealousy about the way it has been managed — some ships excluded from all share, etc., etc. ; but several in speaking of that have said, ' There is no doubt about your share in it, and the position you ought to hold, whatever credit others may get' Admiral Chads told me yesterday that every one had felt how well my share of the work had been done, and that the chief felt it strongly, and had given me credit for it in his letters. I do not anticipate more than very faint expressions on the subject from him, as he is, I think, one who will write short despatches, with no more mention of individuals than he can help. The French will, I think, make a much grander story of the whole affair. '' I do not think anything more will be attempted this year. It is too late for Sweaborg, even if we had force enough to attack, which we have not. I believe I am going there shortly with all the head men to reconnoitre it. Some are beginning to talk already of our moving down the Baltic ; but 1 do not see how we could leave the gulf till the beginning of October, and be out of the Baltic about the end of that month. The weather is very warm yet ; in fact, it is the middle of summer, so that I cannot fancy the winter drawing near. The cholera still lingers in some ships. It commenced severely in Hannibal directly she arrived, and with nearly two thousand men on board it was no wonder. She has now a hundred and fifty sick out of six hundred, and has, I think, lost about twelve ; and now that Russian prisoners are going home in her, I fear 236 EOMARSUND. [Ch. X. she will not get better, especially as the cholera is in England -also. I am most thankful to say that we have not had a sick man for some time. Cudlip will, I suppose, be promoted for this, as he is the senior lieutenant either afloat or on shore. Our gunner was the only one in the land party, and worked the powder of the battery all the time. He was close to the poor young engineer officer when he was killed. They had been on guard together the night before, and he told the gunner of his brother having been killed in the Kaffir war last year. One marine lost his leg from a shell bursting when in the act of putting a sand-bag on his back, which our gunner had lifted up for him. No one else was struck by the fragments of the shell. Captain Ramsay spoke very highly to me of the conduct of our ten men, as many from other ships behaved so ill they had to be sent off after giving much trouble. There was much corn brandy to be got from the cottages, and that caused it all. " Since then I have been rather completing my former survey. I have been lying close under the walls in the channel, which I find more dangerous and intricate than I supposed, and it quite settles the question as to whether we were right in not taking the ships in. I thought so when I supposed three might go in, but now I find there is only space for one, and then the channel is so narrow that Lightning could not swing in it with only twelve fathoms of cable out, and I had to move her out. What chance would there have been of bringing up a large ship in such a place under a heavy raking fire ? Yet I expect still to hear that there are men who pretend to think ships could have gone in. They are parties interested in getting up a feeling against the old admiral. A man yesterday introduced himself to me as a brother of (using two officers' names). I thought, him only a travelling gentle- man, but he put such questions to me that I declined answering him. In fact, he tried to pump out of me opinions (which I do not hold) that would convey a censure on the chief, whom he evidently wanted to find complaints against. I was obliged to be rude to him to get rid of him, but before he went over the side he avowed himself the correspondent of the Morning Herald. Then I gave him my opinion on the subject of newspapers and their correspondents, and the falsehoods they publish, and 1854J INTERVIEWED. 237 the system of puffing some parties that was springing up, in a way that will get me anything but favourably mentioned, particularly as I bowed him over the side in anything but a civil way afterwards. There are parties in the fleet in league with these reporters for the sake of getting themselves puffed. We are all amused at seeing that even here, according to the newspapers, we had nothing to do with getting the ships up, the only mention of Lightning's name being that ' the masters of the fleet had surveyed the channel in Lightning, and found it fit for the largest ships.' They forgot that a preceding paragraph mentioned the large ships as having gone up, though it did not mention who took them up — the truth being that, after I had found the channels and taken up the large ships, the admiral directed me to take the master of the fleet and all the masters in Lightning to show them the channels, that they' might be able to help taking other ships up ; and this is called their ' surveying the channel in Lightning.' " I remember my father saying that the French general was anxious to lay regular siege to the big fort with trench work, after the destruction of the two towers, etc. ; but my father pointed out it could be taken by simply placing two guns on Telegraph Hill to the rear of the fort, looking down into the interior and the rear windows of the casemates, with only a brick wall to resist the shot. This would gain our end with little loss on our side, perhaps with not enough to gain a marshal's baton ! Napier was much perplexed, hesitating between the two ideas, when my father said to him, " If you adopt the plan entailing greater loss, when you can effect your object with hardly any, on you will rest the responsibility of the death of every man that falls unnecessarily." By the time the French general had laid his breaching batteries against the great fort, the governor, seeing he was checkmated, surrendered. After the peace, when my father was talking with 238 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. General Count Ignatieff in London, the former said that, although the Russians blamed the governor for surrender- ing so soon, he himself thought the governor had shown great moral courage. He risked his own reputation to save the lives of his defenceless soldiers. A weaker man would have held out until many had been killed, for the sake of his own credit. The only point on which he might be censured was in not doing more to hinder our going up the narrow channels. As to the new batteries which "Napier" (p. 395) says would have rendered Bomarsund unassailable, if completed, my father's note says : — " It would have fallen just as easily by a land attack, as only one more tower was to have been added on the high ground, and the same batteiy that breached Fort Nottich would also have breached that. The new forts would then have been useless. If they had held much larger bodies of troops, a larger attacking force would have been necessary, but success would have been as certain. The forts at Bomarsund would have been trebled in strength by the new ^^"orks, but they would have added very little to the land defences." Referring to Napier's proposal (p. 404) to attack Abo, after the fall of Bomarsund, with the French troops, and the objection of General D'Hilliers to do so, a note says: — " The French general was quite right. There was no object worth the risk. The French troops had lost one- eighth of their strength by cholera, and the men were affected by it in health and spirits. At Abo they must have landed in a wooded country and in the face of a force of at least equal strength, and our vessels could not have covered the landing on the mainland. I believe they would have failed. General Jones quite agreed with the French general." The military chest taken at Bomarsund contained only paper roubles. Sulivan suggested to the admiral that our I854-] OFFICERS UNREWARDED. 239 Government might utilise them by handing them to Russia as part of our payment /"cr the Dutch loan, and so save the value of them. As it was decided that we had to pay on that loan, though at war, it would, he thought, have been fair to pay them with their own paper ! I extract the following from Captain Sulivan's evidence before the Royal Commission on Naval Promotions, 1863 : — " There was a case in which a commander (Preedy) and gunnery lieutenant (Somerset), who fought a breaching battery in a very gallant affair, as far as a few were con- cerned, and who were specially recommended by the admiral in the body of his despatch, were passed over in the selection for promotion, and other officers, who only dragged the guns on shore, and handed them over to these to fight, were promoted, although I do not think that those officers were selected by interest. Yet it is true that the two officers, the commander and lieutenant, who fought the guns and astonished the French by the accuracy of their fire, breaching a large granite fort in eight hours — those two officers, in spite of the recommendations of the admiral, having been passed over in the Board promotions, never got a step for their gallant conduct until they got it by another action in the next year ; and if they had not then got it, they might have been left unpromoted for years. The commander, although a young commander, was known to be one of the best officers in the service. That was such a striking case, that, when speaking upon the subject to the First Lord of the Admiralty, I could not help pointing out the case to him, and his answer to me was that this officer was a young commander. But he was about forty years of age ; he had been serving long as first lieutenant and mate ; and there were much younger men in point of age promoted, who had not played such a distinguished part as he had. Had those two officers, with two others who were promoted, been alone promoted for that service, although the officers of the fleet would have said it was rather scanty promotion, no one man could have complained." The following despatch from Napier, showing how well 240 BOMARSUND. [Ch. X. the officers of both surveying-ships worked, makes some amends for former omissions : — " ' Duke of Wellington,' Led Sound, "August zyth, 1854. " Having received information that Russian troops and gun-boats were among the islands, I sent Captain Scott with a small squadron to find them out. . . . Captain Scott threaded his way through the islands in a most persevering manner, as their lordships will see by the chart I send. His ships were repeatedly on shore, and the Odin no less than nine times, before they discovered the enemy's gun-boats and steamers lying behind a floating boom, supported on each side by batteries and a number of troops covering the town of Abo, where they have collected a large force. " I take this opportunity of bringing under their lordships' notice the very great exertions of the surveying officers, Captain Sulivan, assisted by Mr. Evans, master of the Lightning, and Commander Otter of the Alban, and I have no hesitation in saying that it is owing to their exertions this fleet have found their way, with comparative little damage, into creeks and corners never intended for ships of the line ; day and night have they worked, and worked successfully. Commander Otter is an old officer and well worthy of promotion, and Captain Sulivan and his assistant surveyor deserve the protection of their lordships." The ships sent to Abo were the Odin, Alban, Gorgon, and Driver. The object was a reconnaissance only. After going in as far as possible in the Alban, Commander Otter pulled in with his gig, sounding just within range of the batteries, which were all the time keeping up a constant fire. Captain Scott's despatch spoke in high terms of Otter. The following is the copy of part of a letter written to some newspaper by Admiral Sulivan in recent years. It may not be out of place here : — " I believe I first started the idea of plating [our ?] ships 1 854] WOOD V. IRON BOTTOMS. 24 1 with thick iron, and even in 1855 floating batteries had been built, protected by armour. If our Government had persuaded the French Government to send them to the Baltic instead of the Black Sea, it would almost certainly have resulted in the destruction of Cronstadt. By the year 1859 the French were iron-plating some of their ships. We had several two-decked ships building about the year i860 that would have been useless if opposed to iron-clads, even of inferior force ; and feeling anxious on this point — I was then naval officer of the Board of Trade — I wi'ote either to the Secretary of the Admiralty officially, or to the First Lord's private secretary — I forget which — suggesting that these ships building should be cut down to frigates and iron-plated ; and I knew that Admiral Sir R. S. Dundas, then Senior Lord, strongly approved of this being done. " The wooden iron-clads have one great advantage over those built of iron, in case of war, though not perhaps sufficient to compensate for the extra durability of iron ships. I allude to the additional safety in case of getting on shore. " No officer who had the experience of the inshore squadron in the Baltic, if he had to command a squadron on similar service, would, 1 think, hesitate for a moment in preferring ships with wooden bottoms. Most of the ships and smaller vessels employed inshore among the rocks of Finland were so often on shore that their bottoms were terribly damaged, and in my own small surveying- steamer the bottom was torn, in places deep into the timber. In a large paddle-steamer — the Leopard — the flag-ship of an inshore squadron, the whole bottom was so torn to pieces that in dock at Woolwich she was visited as a curiosity. Captain Cooper Key, in a large frigate, saved her on one occasion by forcing her in a gale by a press of sail over an extensive reef, when every blow in the hollow of each sea jerked up the boats on the upper deck. Yet these and other ships much damaged remained out and did their work to the end of the season : had they been iron ships, they would have left their bones on Finnish rocks. If such work was required again as was done by Plumridge, Yelverton, Watson, Buckle, Hall, Key, and others in the Baltic, without losing a ship, it could not be done by iron bottoms without losing many of them. We had only one iron ship there, a transport, bringing out stores, etc., and taking home invalids. . . ." * (Continua- tion missing.) * She, I believe, was the only vessel lost. — Ed. 16 CHAPTER XI. THE LAST OF BOMARSUND. "Admiralty, August 22nd, 1854. The good work done by the surveying officers was much appreciated in the Hydrographic Office. On the retirement of Sir Francis Beaufort, his assistant. Captain Washington, succeeded him as chief of the department. " Dear Sulivan, — Accept my hearty congratulations on the success which has attended your indefatigable labours, which I trust will meet with their due reward. All admit that without your pioneering they would not have gained their object as they have done, and happily with little loss of life. I trust the admiral will have given you full credit in his despatches. Your account is very interesting ; but ought you to expose yourself to unnecessary risks ? " I have been three weeks in Paris, when I had the gratification of seeing the Lightning's name repeatedly mentioned in the French newspapers. I feel so thankful there has been no loss of life except the poor Penelope. " I consider that Lightning has conferred great credit on the Hydrographical Department, and heartily thank you all for it. " With best wishes, " Ever faithfully yours, "John Washington." " ' Lightning,' running for Led Sound, "Monday, August 2%th, 1854. " On Wednesday morning we sailed with the French steamer, the French admiral and all the generals. General Jones, with Captain Chads of the army, and young Cochrane (the general's naval aide-de-camp) coming with me. I 242 l8S4] A PEEP AT REVEL. 243 was ordered in writing to take her to Sweaborg, and then deliver a flag-of-truce about an exchange of wounded prisoners. The admiral, as usual, left half my orders to be given verbally, and he told me they would all want to see Revel also, and I must settle with the French admiral which to go to first. He arranged with me that we should go first to Revel, then Sweaborg, and take Hango on our return, and that he would wait for me whilst I settled the flag-of-truce business. I mentioned to our chief that it might lead to something being said by the Russians if Lightning first went in with the generals reconnoitring the place and then went with the flag-of-truce, and I suggested that I had better leave her outside and take another vessel with the flag-of-truce. He said, ' Arrange it as you like with the officer there. Captain Watson, and do whatever you think best. ' " On arriving at Revel Thursday morning, they found Admiral Plumridge with the squadron at anchor under Nargen. Some little difficulty arose when Captain Sulivan, having explained the purport of the expedition to Admiral Plumridge, received written orders from the latter which conflicted with the spirit of the verbal instructions from Sir Charles Napier ; but the French admiral explained that Captain Sulivan had been placed at his disposal. Again some slight friction occurred, when, the glass commencing to fall, and the wind to blow from the southward, Captain Sulivan desired to wait before proceeding to Sweaborg, knowing Lightning could not ride out a storm on a lee shore. But the admiral, nevertheless, ordered him to pro- ceed. However, the French admiral preferred to wait, so the matter was settled. " On Thursday evening we steamed into Revel just in the middle of the bay, three thousand yards from the batteries all round, so that it was useless their firing ; but we had a capital view of everything, and saw five new batteries round the beach to the eastward of the moles. A large number of artillery batteries were going out to 244 THE LAST OF BOMARSUND. [Ch. XI. exercise, and we had a capital view of them. A number of captains were with us, and they said that they owed to me the pleasantest afternoon they had had. Directly General Jones expressed a wish to go in, I had let as many as I could know of it, that they might come also. Whilst inside, a boat with six women came across the bay under sail, so we cut them off, and, I fear, frightened them terribly. But finding they could not escape, they were at last induced to come alongside, several crying bitterly. An old woman was coxswain. I gave them some sugar, tea and biscuit, and a bundle of tracts, and you may fancy their astonish- ment and altered countenances, and they went away dehghted. The old wonxan took my hand and kissed it very hard, and quite cried again, but a very different cry from the first. On Friday it blew a heavy southerly gale, and I told the French chief I did not think it safe to start, the glass being very low. On Saturday it still blew strong, the glass scarcely rising, so I feared still taking Lightning on a dead lee shore." This again led to some discussion, the French admiral ultimately declining to start in such weather. " The wind moderating rapidly about eleven o'clock, and the glass rising steadily, I went to the French chief and said we had better start. He declared he was under my orders, and he would go if I thought it best. We started directly, and by the time we got across it was a beautiful evening. Watson joined us with Impirieuse, Rosamond, and Magicienne, and sent the latter with me, as a large Russian steam-frigate had come out once or twice after a smaller steamer of ours, and Watson thought, as there were two frigates, they would come out when we went much closer in than usual. We led in, followed by the French steamer and Magicienne, Watson waiting about five miles outside where the shoals became thicker. When we drew near the island that I anchored inside of with the former flag-of-truce, the French steamer and Magicienne rounded to half a mile outside us. We ran inside the island. The fort fired two blank guns and then a shot, which fell four hundred yards short of us. I knew we were three thousand yards off. The steamers inside were getting up steam and making a great smoke. We stopped l854] HEAVY GALE A RUSSIAN FRIGATE. 245 inside the island whilst General Jones had a good look, and then steamed slowly along to get as much view farther west as possible ; but before we could get as far as we intended, the French admiral made the signal, ' I shall return,' and he and Magicienne began steaming out, so we had only to follow them, as the steamers inside had their steam up. " We then anchored together for the night. Watson, Woodhouse, Yelverton, and I passed the evening on board Arrogant, all of us old college-mates or shipmates. They all said it was fortunate we had not come over the day before, for it was a tremendous gale. Euryalus tried to ride it out and parted her cable, and they all had to get off under steam and storm-sails. They said we could not have got off, and, had we tried to ride it out, we must have parted cable or been swamped. We should probably have had to run in under an island to save ourselves, and the Russian steamers would have come out and gobbled us up ! " Yesterday morning I was obliged to go in under a flag-of-truce, as the French admiral was to wait for us at Hango, if we could get there in time. I went in at five with Rosamond, and anchored near where I did before. A boat soon came out with a white flag, and the same lieutenant I saw before took the letter. I explained it had reference to wounded Russian prisoners in our hospital-ship. Shortly after one of their steam -frigates came out with a white flag and anchored near us. I had no idea they had such a beautiful vessel. She is about our Leopard ox Retribu- tion class : seven guns of a side on the main-deck, two heavy shell-guns aft, one forward, and two smaller guns like the main-deck ones (about thirty-two-pounders) on the fore- castle — in all nineteen guns. She seemed in beautiful order. Though carrying her guns higher than our vessels, she seemed a much lighter and prettier vessel, and was perfectly upright even when turning short round. Our steamers like Leopard or Magicienne are put on one side by the most trifling thing, so that they could not always fight their guns. We saw another steam-frigate exactly like this one inside, towing ships from one position to another. With two such ships they ought long since to have cut off' one of ours. At one time Rosamond alone — six guns — was off' the port watching, no other ship was within reach, and I am sure they must be faster than she. The one that came out seemed very fast. She had a number of 246 THE LAST OF BOMARSUND. [Ch. XI. officers on board, and a very large crew, dressed in white frocks, except a small number in red blouses, apparently the marines. I felt strongly inclined to go to her and call on the captain, but feared they might not like it or might misconstrue my motives. We laid all day till 2 p.m., when a fast little steamer came out, and a very fine, handsome, gentlemanly young lieutenant brought a letter for Sir Charles Napier. He was not reserved and frightened as the other had been at the idea of speaking to us or of disobeying orders. We asked him below. He smiled and seemed to hesitate, and then said in French, ' Thank you, but I cannot, because — because — because ' and then, after hesitating and smiling, said, 'You under- stand,' and he went down the ladder. Just as he shoved off he asked the name of the vessel. We then steamed out, and I immediately started in Lightning, but too late to see Hango or catch the French chief, so we pushed on for Led Sound all night, and are now, 1 1 a.m., getting in sight and all longing for our letters. " It was most gratifying and flattering to me to receive from all my brother-captains up there such real warm congratulations on what they thought I am sure to get for my share in the work. My kind friend Yelverton had, I think, rather overrated my work in telling them all about it. Still it was gratifying to see all absence of jealousy from those who had been out of the way, and such a desire that I should be rewarded. One was quite sure they could not give me anything less than the K.C.B. I pointed out to them that I had done nothing to come within its reach, even if the rules allowed it in my case, which they do not. ^'^ August 2gtk. — On our way here we heard that the French admiral on his way back found the Russians them- selves destroying Hango and blowing up the forts. I am very thankful for it, as it saves us many lives. We must have destroyed it before we went home. I had just suggested to General Jones a plan for landing a large force by daybreak above on the neck of land, and so cutting off all the force on the point (from two to three thousand men) besides ..." (Continuation missing.) " ' Lightning,' Bomarsund, September isl, 1854. " On Wednesday the chief came up here to see the last of the place, the blowing up of the forts, etc., and to see l854] FRENCH CHOLERA-MORTALITY. 247 Admiral Chads try his guns at the masonry. He said I could lie down at Led Sound to do my work completing charts. I told him I should like to see the last of the forts, as I had seen the first, and I could lie here and get up the work, besides being on the spot to get any more work for the chart, if necessary. So he let me come up. Admiral Seymour came up with him in Odin, but pre- ferred a bed in my cabin ; so he has been with me at night. He is such a good, estimable man that it is a pleasure having him with me. Yesterday morning he asked me to walk over the different points with him before breakfast. The night before Admiral Chads sent for me to the chiefs ship. He was in great anxiety lest he should not be able to fire at the big fort, as the French general did not wish it, but said he might have Presto Fort. Now to get at that we have to pass the very narrow channel near the large fort, and he was very anxious to know if I could take Edinburgh in through. 1 said I thought I could, as there is seven fathoms water ; but the doubt was if there is breadth enough. I took the master of Edinburgh with me, as he knew best what space the ship would turn and steer in. The channel proved even narrower than I thought, but we found about ten feet more breadth than the breadth of the ship, and decided to take her through ; but before anything could be done the fort to be fired at was blown up, so there was an end to that, and I lost the chance of taking a line-of-battle ship through a narrower channel than, I think, was ever attempted before, unless it was through a dock-gate ! The general then agreed that Chads should fire at the large fort, and a piece is to be reserved for that purpose. The French are burning every- thing they can that has to be destroyed, and are anxious to embark the men as quickly as possible, for the cholera has been making sad havoc among them. They have already buried about seven hundred out of ten thousand men, and, though it is better, twenty-four died yesterday. I went to one or two more points to complete my work, and particularly to make a plan of all the new batteries building, etc., and in passing through one small encamp- ment we saw two poor fellows just laid out on stretchers, dead. A few natives have also died, but it is the first time they have ever had cholera in the islands. The poor people will be helped through the winter by the supply of meal in the fort. It is given to all who come, and hundreds 248 THE LAST OF BOMARSUND. [Ch. XI. of carts and carriages of all descriptions and boats of every kind are loading all day. " To-day I had to go up to the north fort to complete some work at that point. It was blown up by the French yesterday. One part, that where our breach was made, did not fall, and it was singular that the only gun not buried under the ruins was the same one the enemy had fought so long and so gallantly against our breaching battery. It was still pointing exactly at our battery, as if it would stand to the last. The front wall was all down, leaving the arches of the upper tier of three casemates standing, so that you could see the interior, and on the right-hand one lay the gun alongside its carriage. The new batteries building would have made it a tremendously strong place. There were two of seventy guns each, and two large towers, or rather circular forts, capable of mounting forty guns each. The Emperor must have put a very great value on the place to add so enormously to the fortifications. The work is beautiful : the face of all would be cut granite, fitted in blocks, and the embrasures, etc., were as beautifully worked as in the finest London buildings. General Jones says the work is very superior. Thousands of beautifully cut granite stones, all fitted for their places, are lying in every direction. One fort was half built ; the others had only the foundations laid. To-night the massive scaffolding and platforms round the building are all in a blaze, and all the work will be blown up. The only reason I can see for such an outlay is that the Emperor intended making it his chief naval port, in which he would have his fleet almost always free from ice, and at the same time advanced towards Sweden and the Atlantic. He would then have had his fleet in by far the finest port in the Baltic, with anchorages for the largest ships. " This evening when dining with Admiral Chads, the chief. Admiral Martin, and others also, a small Ru.ssian steamer hove in sight with a flag-of-truce. Her boat brought two officers, one a lieutenant, the other a nondescript, wearing a sort of uniform coat and cap, dirk, and a collar and cross round his neck. He, it appears, is the owner of the Russian steamer, and belongs to the yacht club of St. Petersburg ; she is now hired by the government. They came to the place Otter was to take the women to, to receive them ; and not finding them there, they came on, I i ^ ':mi^ 1 ■/ it e end a longer interval would make us think it was over, when again masses of building would fly up in all directions, but all near one spot. At last it reached a larger new earthen battery on the top of Gustaff Island, and away went one side of it, guns and all, leaving, instead of bright-green turf, a heap of stones and rubbish. I think it was all on the inner slope of Gustaff, where I have written in. Now nothing is to be seen about there but bare space ; and even on the next island, Vargon, the buildings on the point nearest to it are a heap of ruins. I think such an extraordinary explosion never occurred before. There might have been 332 BOMBARDMENT OF SWEABORG. [Ch. XIV. greater single ones. The fort I was under at Bomarsund, from the account of those who saw both, was a more tremendous explosion than the first ; but a succession of at least twenty — some say thirty — is the extraordinary part. I think they must have had the magazines formed in cells or compartments of masonry, and that these went in succession, each blowing up its next-door neighbour by smashing the intervening wall, which might have caused the second or two's interval between each. " The gun-boats gradually worked nearer the shore, and sent plenty of shot and shell in, but, except smashing the batteries and houses, did little damage ; it was ^. 4° - ^en.,' v© ?? f"*^^ «4£fe l's= GULF B T H N iio In.. Ills' ^ ^ ^-^i « >«•-/ , ^^^IJ^il^lVS •^o?^ ^he NaJ" S^" 'Xerfba-a 'dA tafo; ''ar / f/ ^' V , f r """ /W *^«*)'1 J-a^so ''''''^(k^:m.t^ I'Tfeterrat ! iSi .liflsi^ /ye, — jf'rf?(zro& ^orrojFi Halmsfe^ • OstergarwZ. C.Laus Wiky ^Ifarshobrij Sob org ^tC^' ^-FailBf U/r -^hnv. \V"^'5'V*" ?AaA %to io^'"-^:^^ ^^^^^"^.« ^Sbelfy,^ lantl N ti >¥(h-asgard '^, '^OdandF!' ^ "^ '^;^/"", "« Mm I,/.., i\rt& I^I-S'Sn. Q0T,<^»e\ y^^^ _F,l-;l,ld.I.. iMkr , 7^^ „ >VV< ^„/,/„„>7f^ J^^^T4.77^a^ ""■"sr'^'^i''?' °i"^'""" iloktii'q}!' ,i\o\k'^"} fos/iAo"*^'' ■ Vs/h«\" fnlMilan Jtou^ Map to illustrate tf le ^'^^St^ BALTIC CAMPAIGN ,1854-5 [\ ^ ADMIRAL SIR B.J.SULIVANS LIFE. 18° 20° il^ixiev. FOR &4° 22- 21° 26° 28° 30° London: .Tolui Murrav Zortdcrh. iSiariforcHs Geoc^^ K'Hnb'^. INDEX Aberdeen, Lord, 113 Abo, 171, 238, 256 Acorn, 65 Acre referred to, 159, 160, 404 Admiral to direct, not to fight, 427 Admiralty, Board of, 385 ; consult Sulivan, 392; oppose dockyard volunteers, 398, 399 ; construc- tion of, 419 Admiralty plans, 122, 182 Adventure, 34, 35 Aland Islands, 122, 139, 140; visited by Buckle, 143 ; surveyed by Suli- van, ibj^etseq., 177, 208 Alanders, 247, 258 Alban, 181, 208; ashore, 256, 257; 367 Alecto, 105 ; rapid descent of Parana, 107, 108 ; no Algiers, siege of, quoted, 160, 259 Americans adopt coast mortars, 409, 410 Anapa, 265 Andrews, G., clerk, killed at Obli- gado, 87, 88 Ango channel, 171, 175, 209 Anson, wreck of, 2, 3 ApoUon shoal, 149, 356 Argentine Republic, 52 Army, advantages over navy, x, 369 Army volunteers, origin of, 426 Arrogant, 148, 150, 157, 160 Arrow, 49, 50 Astronomer Royal, reception of, on the Beagle, 45 Auckland, Lord, and dockyard volunteers, 397 Aurora, 16 Autobiography of Admiral Sir B. J. Sulivan, vi, 1-35 Baker, Captain (Gorgon), 99, 151 Baltic campaign, XXV, xxvi, 258, 259: 1855 — plan of, 272 Baltic fleet, condition of, 128; strength of, 131, 139, 181 ; sail- ing qualities, 132, 133, 136; 138; in danger, 146; duties of, 183, 241 ; handling of, 241 ; home, 262: 1855 — 277, 278; deficient in small craft, 280 ; ships ground- ing, 363, 364 Baltic, rebuoying, 367, 374 Banda Oriental, 106 Baro Sound, 197, 346, 363 Barons, Russian, 309 et seq., 348, 349, 362 Barratry, case of, no Basque Roads, case of, 416 Bastia, 204 Batteries, construction of Obligado, 73, 88 ; San Lorenzo, 108 ; Hango, 158 ; 405 et seq. Baugh, R.N., 9, 15, 24 Baxada de Santa Fg, 102, 109 Beagle, 13, 28, 33 ; recommissioned, 36, 37, 39 ; boat expeditions, 40- 45 ; Lord Farrer on cruise of, 381 Beagle's ghost, 33 ; tenders, 39, 40 Beaufort, Admiral Sir Francis, 65, 114, 119; instructions re Baltic, 123 ; 139 ; letters, 144, 199, 253 Berkeley, Admiral Sir Maurice, 122, 404, 430 Bingham, Captain A. Batt, 24-29 Bingham, Captain (Acorn), 65 Biorko, 197, 346, 363 Bishop made by a captain, 14 Bishop Stirling's reminiscences of Sulivan, 386, 390 433 28 434 INDEX. Blockade, effects of, on Russia, 312, 319, 429 Board of Trade, Sulivan at the, xxvii, 375-384 Boating expeditions, 40-44 Boats' sails, 39 Bomarsund, 122, 135, 144 ; surveyed, 163, 166 et seq. ; forts, 174, 183 ; report on, 177, 178 ; governor of, 186 ; secret of, 201 ; fall of, 208 et seq. \ new forts, 238 ; war-chest, 238 ; blown up, 246 et seq. ; strength of, 248, 253-256 ; refused by Sweden, 254 Botany, 39, 51 Bournemouth, life at, 391-395 Bovisand, defective fort at, 204, 404 Brazilian war, 27 ; crimping in, 29 Brickdale, Lieutenant, 72, 87, 88 Brierley, Sir O. W., 209, 234 Briggs, Sir John, on Sulivan, 384 Brown, Amirante, captures Spanish squadron, 27, 28 ; blockades Bue- nos Ayres, 53 ; scene with Com- modore Purvis, 58, 59178; son of, 79,85 Buckle, Admiral Sir Claude, K.C.B., 139, 141 ; visits Aland Islands, 143, 171, 178; Valorous aground, 209; 214, 226, 241 Buenos Ayrean squadron, 27 ; army, 71, 77; bravery of, 82, 84-86, 92 Caffin, Admiral Sir J. Crauford, K.C.B., 176, 212, 226, 344 Calvi, Nelson at, 204 Casualties at Obligado, 83 Cecil, Lord D., 309 et seq. Chacabuco, 94 Chads, Admiral Sir H. D., G.C.B., 131; gunnery expert, 138; 158, 163, 182, 201 ; at Bomarsund, 208, 209, 212, 216; Presto channel, 225 ; 235, 249 ; plan for Sweaborg, 267, 268 Chaplain made acting-bishop, 14 Chartist riots, 397 Chartres, Surgeon, R.N., 67, 104 Childers, the Right Hon., 41 1 Chilian silver merchants, 4 (note) Chiloe survey, 40, 43 China war, surveyors in, 416,417 Cholera among French troops, 225, 247, 252 ; mortality, 251, 252, 257 Cholera in Baltic ships, 174, 191, 195-198; in steamers only, 199; Sulivan on, 251 Christmas at Chiloe, 43 Cleanliness, necessity of, 179, 251 Coast defence, 88, 385, 404-410 Cochrane, Admiral the Hon. Sir A. A., on Sulivan, 164; survey of Bomarsund, 166 et seq.; despatch re, 177; 219; at the baron's, 349, 350 " Cockney Sam," 55 Collegians, R.N., 9, 11, 15, 24, 73 Collisions, 408 Colonia, 64, 67 Commander-in-chief of army, 422 Commander-in-chief of navy needed, 420 Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet, Sir J. E., G.C.B., V.C, at Obli- gado, 79 Comus in Parana, 71, "JJ, 83 Convoy in Parana, attack on, 102, 103, 112 Coode, Sir John, C.E., 403 Copenhagen, 29 ; compared to Cron- stadt, 203 Corrientes, 55, 95, 105 Corrientinos, 98-100, 105 Corry, Admiral Armar L., 152; re Russian gun-boats, 429 Cossack's boats fired on, 294, 299 Cotesworth, Lieutenant William, R.N., II etseq. Cowell, General Sir John, R.E., K.C.M.G., 165, 166 Creyke, Captain R. B., R.N. (Mer- lin), 276, 304, 309, 338, 339; 341, 347, 348 Cronstadt, survey of, 185 et seq,, 2S7 et seq.; compared with Copen- hagen, 203 ; strength of, 204, 205, 255, 262, 265, 281 ; weak side, 273 ; plans re, 273 ; 279 ; new de- fences, 274 ; infernals, 301 ; our means against, 305 ; Ignatieff on, 367 ; lessons from, 406-409 ; 429 Cudlip, Commander F. A., R.N., 127, 220, 224; at Bomarsund, 231, 257 Dago Island, 147, 308, 309, 350, 352 Darwin, Charles, 40, 41, 381, 382 INDEX. 43S Dauntless, 148 Degerby, intercourse with peasants at, 168, 175, 209, 210, 212, 258 Despatches, Hotham's, 113, 115, 1 16 ; Napier's, 240, 263, criticised, 252; Dundas's, 341; P^naud's, 341 ; windy, 354, 359; Welling- ton's on the Press, 361, 362 Desperate and Lightning, 147 Dinghy, expedition in, 102 Dirt and disease, 250 Discipline, in Philomel, xxiii, 58, III, 112; in Merlin, 126; inter- ference of Parliament and Press with, 419, 420 Disestablishment question, the (Ch. of Eng.), 392 Distilled water, use of, 252 Dolphin, 67, 71 ; at ObUgadOj 76- 79 ; casualties, 83, 87 ; at San Lorenzo, 102, 103 Doyle, Commander, 64 ; wounded, 76, 84, 88, 94; death of, 104 Dragon attacks Hango fort, 155 Drew, Admiral, 11 Duchesne, Admiral Parseval. See French admiral, 1854 Dundas, Admiral Sir R. A., K.C.B., characteristics, 280 ; 284 ; at Cron- stadt, 287, 289, 291, 299; divided authority of, 300 ; Cronstadt, 304, 306 ; Sweaborg, 323 et seq. ; con- gratulates Sulivan, 327, 331 ; in- spects effects, 337 ; despatch, 341, 344; on Sulivan, 356; hu- manity of, 362, 363 ; r« Cronstadt, 366 ; on honours, 370 Dutch loan, Sulivan's proposal re, 239 Dyer, Captain R. C, R.N., on Suh- van, 124; 276, 350 Earp, G. Butler, " History of Baltic Campaign of 1854," 428-431 Edmonstone, Admiral Sir William, K.C.B., II Ekness, 157, 160, 311 Eliot, the Rev. P. F., Dean of Wind- sor, 395 EUenborough, Lord, 397 Engineers, lack of, in Peninsula and Crimea, 416 Ensign, British, similar to Russian, 187 Ensign, red, white, and blue, 41 1 Erskine, Admiral J. E., 147, 286, 346 Esquina, 97 Evans, Captain Sir Fred T. O. (Hydrographer), joins Lightning, 127; pilots Admiral Plumridge, 130, 139, 150, 162; atBomarsund, 209, 210 ; pilots French at Bomar- sund, 220, 226 ; despatch re, 240 Expeditive, 71, 87 Explosion of internals, 291 et seq., 300 et seq. Fairley, H.E.I.C.S., mistaken for French ship, 25 Falkland Islands, xxv ; survey of, 48-51; tussac, 51; 116; Sulivan farming at, 400-402 Fanny, 71 ; at Obligado, 75-83 ; 99 ; at San Lorenzo, 102, 103 ; 106 Fanshaw, Admiral E. G., 294 Fantome, 59 Faro Sound, 130, 279, 282 Farragut, Admiral, U.S., re small guns, 428 Farrer, Lord, on Sulivan, 379-384 Fegan, Lieutenant, 57 Ferguson, James, 404 Filey, proposed harbour at, 402-404 Finns, 162, 163, 179, 186 ; at Biorko, 195 ; 312 ; need of salt, 346, 356 ; sufferings of, 360, 364 Firebrand, 65 ; at Obligado, 71, 79, 83 ; 95 ; San Lorenzo, 103, 108 First Lord, disadvantage of achange- able, 421 FitzRoy, Admiral R. O'B., Gold- medallist, 1 2 ; in Thetis, 24, 29 ; in Beagle, 33, 36-46 ; on Sulivan, 46,49 Flag captured at Obligado returned, 91 Flag-of-truce, Sweaborg, 199, 243, 298, 299 ; fired on at Hango, 294, 295 Flag rank, promotion to, 423 Flag-ship should not be a battle-ship, 427 Fleet actions, 427 Fleet. See Baltic fleet Floating batteries, 241, 273, 274, 366 Flogging for drunkenness, 32 Flores, Colonel, 63, 105 Fog, fleet in a, 146, 147 ; 282 436 INDEX. Foote, Lieutenant, drowned, 140, 143 Forts, shelling of, 152, 157; Cron- stadt, 190 et seq. ; defective at Bovisand, 404. See Batteries and Ships V. forts Francia, Dr., re Paraguayans, 95, 98 French admiral ; 1854 — Bomarsund, 182, 209, 214, 216: 1855 — sup- ports Sulivan, 275 ; Cronstadt, 506; re Helsingfors, 307 French captains taught by Sulivan, 291; as pilots, 415, 416 French general (D'Hilliers) at Bo- marsund, 216, 217, 220, 228 (note), 247 ; re Abo, 237, 238 ; (Niel), re Sweaborg, 270 French gunnery proverb, 265 French impetuosity, 382 French in Parana, system of drill, 55, 56; rewards, 112 French, knowledge of language use- ful, 249 French mortars, 320 French officer's remarks on Sulivan, 196, 214; re Bomarsund, 217, 218, 232 ; 242, 291, 297, 374 French ships in Baltic, well manned, 121; 137, 139, 143; piloted, 137, 209, 415 ; return home, 249: 1855 — at Cronstadt, 289 French ships in Parana, 65, 71 ; gal- lantry at Obligado, 77, 80, 82 ; casualties, 83, 86, 90, 103 ; as- cending Parana, 104, 108, 383. See San Martin, Fulton, and Tr6houart French troops in Baltic, 201 ; arrive, 212; at Bomarsund, 215, 219, 223, 225, 227, 228 (note), 230 ; blow up forts, 247 ; cholera among, 250- 252 Fulton (P.s.), 71 ; at Obligado, 78, 79, 83 ; damage to, 89 ; up Parana, 97, 106; in Baltic, 219 Gamla Carleby disaster, 180, 199, 295 Ganges, 12 Gardiner, Captain Allen, R.N., xxviii Garibaldi, red shirts of, 55; in the Uruguay, 65, 67 Ghost, the Beagle's, 33 Gibraltar, salvage work at, 17-20 Glasse, Admiral F. H. H., 143 Gorgon ashore, 63, 65, 71 ; at Obli- gado, 79, 83, 90 ; up the Parana, 99, loi, 102 Goss, Thomas, Master, R.N., 65 Gothland, 131 Gowdy, 'William, Master, R.N., 24 Goya, 97, 100 Graham, Sir James, 144; re Cron- stadt, 272, 430 Grey, Admiral Sir George, 10, 20 Grey, Admiral the Hon. Sir Frede- rick, 31 Grivel, Lieutenant Richild, on verti- cal fire, 343 (note) Gun-boats, at Sweaborg, 328 ; 333, 359 ; new type, 366 ; Russian. See Russian gun-boats Gunnery, 417 Guns at Obligado, 81, 82, 86, 90 Guns, large and small, 428 Hall, Admiral Sir W. H., K.C.B., 148, 157; at Ekness, 161; at Bomarsund, 190, 214, 216; 241, 303 Hamilton, Admiral W. A. B., 120; letter on retirement, 316; dock- yard volunteers, 397 ; on small or big guns, 428 Hamond, Philip, Captain, R.N., at Falklands, 401, 402 Hamond, Robert N., Captain, R.N., 20, 202, 402 Hango, 141, 148; Sulivan inspects and reports on, 152-160, 246; at- tacked by Dragon, 156; French admiral at, 243 ; destroyed by Russians, 246 ; calamity to Cos- sack's boats, 294, 295 Hapsal, 308; scare at, 311, 313, 356 Harbour needed on east coast, 402, 404 Harston, Captain, R.N., 64 Hastings, Marquis of, 402 Hecla. See Hall Helsingfors, 133, 152; the Times axi, 263 1 282 ; French designs on, 307 ; Sulivan helps to save, 318; 337; gratitude of inhabitants, 360 Hewett, Commander William, joins Merlin, Tjd ; 309, 349 Hewlett, Admiral R., 191, 334 INDEX. 437 Hogland, 185 ; health of, 282, 283, 300 Honorary rewards, 114, 368 Hooker, Sir William and Sir Joseph, 39 Hope, Admiral Sir James, G.C.B., 70, 73 ; cuts chains at Obligado, 79, 80, 114; 81, 83, 93; at' San Lorenzo, 103, in Baltic, 126, 151, 346; refuses G.C.B., 369 ; at sub- marine trial, 372 Hotham, Captain C, saves Gorgon, 63 ; commands Parana squadron, 65 ; at Obligado, 73-80 ; decision of, 8r, 84; on PhilomeVs men, 86; ascends Parana, 95, 97, loi, 114; on Sulivan, 116, 119 Hurdle, General, R.M., at Obligado, 72, 81 Ignatieff, Colonel Count, 238 ; re Cronstadt, 367 Illustrated London News, artists, 209, 234, 292, 295, 350 " Infernal machines," 187, 288, 291 etseq., 295, 296 ; drawing and de- scription of, 301 etseq.; 306,308, 319 Inglefield, Admiral Sir, 55, 73 Inman, Rev. Professor James, 9 et seq. Instructions to Napier, 122 ; to Suli- van, 123, 137, 138 Irish sailors, 31 Iron bottoms for ships, 241 Ironclads, 428 Italians at Monte Video, 55, 66 James, Admiral Bartholomew, vii, 1,2 Jellicoe, Lieutenant Henry, R.N., 13 Johnson, J. F., Surgeon, R.N., joms Lightning, 127; on cholera, 251 ; Merlin, 276 Jones, General Sir H., R.E., 204 ; at Bomarsund, 215, 216, 219, 220, 224, 233 ; at Abo, 238 ; at Revel, 242 ; 248, 259, 262 ; Defence Com- missioner, 405 ; request to see Cronstadt refused, 429 Kalbaden Shoal, 282 Key, Admiral Sir A. Cooper, K.C.B., on Sulivan, xi, xxiv, 116 ; 35; at Obligado, 73, 76 ; lands a com- pany, 81, 82, 88 ; at San Lorenzo, 103, 104; in Baltic, 126, 212, 356, 357 ; at Bomarsund, 223, 224, 228 ; saves his ship, 241 ; 291, 315 ; watches Sweaborg, 357, 358 ; hu- manity of, 358, 359; sub-marine trial, 373, 405 ; as navigator, 41 5 King, Phihp Gedley, R.N., 42, 45, 46; on Sulivan, 47, 48 Koivasto, 192, 285 Lain^, Admiral, 55 Lawrence, Colonel, R.IW., 98, 329 Led Sound, 167 ; anchorage, 253 Legion of Honour, Sulivan recom- mended for the, 218, 374 Leiningen, H.S.H. Admiral Prince Ernest of, G.C.B., in Baltic, 351- 355 " Letters from the Baltic," by Lady Eastlake, 284 Letters, official's private, fair evi- dence, 430 Letters, Sulivan 's, how to be treated, 127 Levinge, Commander R., 71, 72 ; at Obligado, 75-78 ; losses in Dolphin, etc., 83-89 ; at San Lorenzo, 103 Lighthouse at Cronstadt, 189, 190 Lightning commissioned, 122, 129 ; sandwiched, 133 ; takes Desper- ate for enemy, 147 ; leads French fleet, 178; at Cronstadt, 187 et seq. ; takes officers to Cronstadt, 192 ; takes masters to Bomarsund, 209; French officers ditto, 216; supplies rocket battery and men, 210, 231, 257 ; behaviour of men, 236; immunity from cholera, 251, 252 Lights, coast, 375, 378, 424 Lindley, Professor, 38, 51 Lovisa, 311 Lucas, Admiral C. D., V.C, 190 Luckraft, Captain Charles M., 132, 140 Lydiard, Captain, in wreck oi Anson, 1-3 MACKINNON, Captain, 94; rides with 438 INDEX. mails, 105 ; describes descent of Alecto, 107; witli rocket battery, 112 Maderiaga, General, 55, 105 Mandeville, W., 53 Manning the navy, deficiency of men for Baltic fleet, 120, 121 ; Suli- van's scheme, 418, 419 Mansell, Captain, 258 Marines at Obligado, 82 Martin, Admiral H. B., K.C.B., 196, 208 Martin, Captain G. B., 57 Martin Garcia, 64, 67, 69 Master of Baltic fleet: 1854—135, 142, 151; places Dragon against Hango, 156, 157, 212; vA\\\ Pene- lope, 126 ; at Bomarsund, 227 Master line, abolition of, 41 1 et seq. Masters, R.N., 151 ; at Bomarsund, 209, 212, 237 ; at Sweaborg, 266; junior, inexperienced, 412; as pilots, 414 Matheson, Sir J., 51 Mazeres, Lieutenant, 74 Mechanics good gunners, 400 Medals, 114 Mellersh, Admiral A., C.B., on Suli- van, 46, 47 Merchant Shipping Bill, 424 Merchants in Parana, 100, 104 Merchants of Chili, 4 (note) Merlin, Captain Dyer on, 124; commissioned, 276 ; explodes in- fernals, 291, 292; at Sweaborg, 320; ashore, 336, 339, 347; offi- cers recommended, 338 ; home, 365 ; leads line at review, 367. Midshipmen, education of, 23 ; as navigators, 413 Milner Gibson, T., on Sulivan, 378 Missions to Seamen Society, 392 Money, Captain, R.N., 3, 5, 6 Monte Video, 28 ; siege of, 54, 57, 62 ; Colonel Flores shot, 105 ; I lo Moresby, Captain, 173 Moriarty, Master of Duke of Wel- lington, 213 Mortars, Sulivan suggests, 268, 274, 430 ; ranges, 275 ; for Cronstadt, 299 ; at Sweaborg, 320 et seq. ; French, 328, 334, 335; bursting, 339, 340 ; Wemyss on, 342 ; for coast defence, 406 et seq. Mosquitoes in Parana, 72, 97, 98 Mundy, Admiral Sir R., K.C.B. , 215, 224, 291 Napier, Admiral Sir Charles, K.C.B. , 120; commands Baltic fleet, 122, 135; his anxiety, 123, 158, 430, 431 ; 138, 145 ; his advisers, 150, 151 ; plan re Bomarsund, 181- 184; Cronstadt, 191, 192, 195; Sulivan defends, 202-207 ; attack on Bomarsund, 213, 216, 221 ; divided responsibility, 237 ; wishes to attack Abo, 238 ; despatch re surveyors, 240 ; 243 ; Beaufort on despatches, 252 ; orders home sailing-ships, 253 ; character of, 254 ; firmness of, 259 ; coolness of, 261 ; attacked by Press, 263 ; goes home, 266 ; kindness to Finns, 365 ; " Sharpen your cutlasses," 429 Napier, Colonel, re army volunteers, 426 Napoleon Bonaparte on army in relation to navy, x Nargen, Sulivan urges its safety, 150; visits peasants at, 284, 300 ; fleet at, 344; 347; gale at, 362, 363 Nash, Charles, Lieutenant, 15 Naval reserve, origin of, 120, 121, 411,418,419 Naval review at Spithead, 1856, 126 Navigating officers, 411-418 Navy in relation to army, x Navy, reforms in, 375 ; administra- tion of, 385, 419 et seq.; com- mander-in-chief needed, 420 Nelson, tactics of, n8, 151, 203, 207 ; blockading, 265 Newspaper Press and correspon- dents, 123; officers' letters to, 201, 214, 237 ; as war critics, 255, 256, 259 ; Wellington on, 361 ; in- terfering with discipUne, 419 Nicholson, Lieutenant, at Obligado, 79 Niddrie, Surgeon, R.N., gallantry of, 90 Niel, General, plan re Sweaborg, 270 Nugent, Colonel Sir C. B., R.E., INDEX. 439 K.C.B., at Hango, 155, ic,6; re Bomarsund plan, 182 Nystad, 311 Obligado, battle of, 55, 73 ; action, 75-92 ; French at, 382 Obligado, schooner, 76, 97 Odin's boats attacked, 180, 240 Oribe, General, 58-60 Osborne, Captain Sherard, on Obli- gado and Sevastopol, 90 Otter, Admiral H. C, C.B., pilots French, 137; 176; destroys tele- graph, i8i; 212, 218, 223; at Bomarsund, surveys landing-place, 224, 227, 240 ; ship on shore, 256 ; 257, 277, 286 ; explodes an infer- nal, 292 ; 338, fired on, 345, 346 ; leads line at review, 367 Ozel, 308, 309, 312 Packington, Sir John, 41 1 Paisley, Admiral Sir Thomas, 64 Palmerston, Lord, intervievi^ with, 112 Pandour, 71, 77, 83 Paraguay, 95 ; commerce of, 96 ; manifesto, 98, 99 Parana campaign, xxiv, xxx ; cause of, 52 ; 65, 95, loi Parana, navigation of the, 106, 113, "5 Parker, Admiral Sir W., 124, 416 Patuxent, expedition, the, 4 Paysandu, 66 Paz, General, 71, 98; generalship, 100, 105 Peace, 318 ; Sulivan's desire for, 319- 361 Peel, Sir R., on Napier, 202, 203 Pelham, Admiral the Hon. F., at Bomarsund, 223, 229 ; 291, 304 P6naud, Admiral, despatches, 341 ; at Revel, 344; 348, 356 Penelope on shore at Presto, 226 Pension, Sulivan's, 378, 383 Phillimore, Admiral Sir John, Bart., II, 12, 14-24 Philomel, commissioned, 56 ; smart- ness of, 57, 63, 86 ; at Obligado, 71 et seq.\ casualties in, 84; passes batteries San Lorenzo, 108; discipline of, in, 112; home, 112. Pilots, in Parana, 107; Baltic, 134, 135, 136, 139, 413 et seq.\ com- pulsory, 379, 425 Pincher, loss of, 48-50 Pioneer officers needed, 416 Plumridge, Admiral Sir J. B., K.C.B., 128 ; at Aland Islands, 130-135 i '39 i burns vessels, 171 ; 185 ; at Bomarsund, 218, 220, 224 ; handling of ships, 241 ; 243 ; goes to Kiel, 262 ; destroys Rus- sian property, 295 Political patronage, 422 Ponsonby, Lord and Lady, 20, 21, 31.33 Port Baltic, 206, 207, 347 Preedy, Admiral G. W., 223, 239 Press. See Newspaper Press Prisoners, treatment of Monte Vid- ean, 63 and note; Russian, 161 Procida, 71, 83 Promotions, Obligado, 113; Bomar- sund, 256; Sweaborg, 359; by interest, 419 Punishments, 58 Punta Gorda, 95 Purvis, Admiral, 53, 58 ; scene with Amirante Brown, 59, 60 Ram, the, suggested by Sulivan, 408 ; Russians practise the use of, 408 (note) Ramsay, Admiral G. (Euryalus), 282, 283, 304 Ramsay, Admiral Sir W., K.C.B. {Hogtee), at Bomarsund, 223, 229 and note, 231, 232 Ramsay battery, the, Russian astonishment at, 234 ; scanty pro- motion for, 239, 248 ; behaviour of " Lightnings " in, 236 Range of Russian guns, 289, 306 Reforms checked by older men, 421 liepublicano, the, 77-79 Reserve. See Naval reserve Revel, question of attacking, 243, 259, 360-362 ; new defences at, 281, 284, 308; 311 ; Grand Dukes at, 314 Review at Spithead 1856, 366 Richards, Admiral Sir G. H., K.C.B., F.R.S., vi ; reminiscences of Suli- van, xxi-xxxii ; in Philomel, 56, 58, 68, 73 et seg.; lands at Obli- 440 INDEX. gado, 8l ; 93 ; takes temporary command of Philomel, 100; pro- moted, 113 ; 392 Rincon Gallinos, the, 65 Risking lives, 93 Riviera, General, 53, no Road, military, needed on Surrey hills, 426 Rodriguez, Colonel, gallantry of, at Obligado, 79, 92, 93 Rosas, General, stories of, 52, 69 ; policy of, 95, 98-100; strategy of, 102-104 Rossiniere, Suisse, fight at, 378 (note) Rouse, Lieutenant J. Wood, 9 Royal commissions. See list of Appendices, xix, xx Royal Naval College, 8, 73 Royse, Rev. N., R.N., acts as bishop, 15 Russian charts, 274 Russian compliment to Sulivan, 367. 474 Russian cutting-out plan, 357 Russian fleet in Baltic, 121 ; strength of, 132, 135, 152, 159, 253; posi- tion of, at Cronstadt, 187-189, 281, 284, 286; good handling of, Russian frigate, a, 245 Russian gun-boats, 142, 289, 295, 304, 305; how built, 317; 357. Russian gunners, at Ekness, 160 ; Sevastopol, 431 Russian heating apparatus, 352 and note Russian peasants, at Hango, 162, 163 ; Aland Islands, 168, 172, 173, 176, 209, 287; sufferings of, 301. See also Finns Russian police officer, 209, 211 Russian prisoners 161, 257 ; killed at Hango, 295 Russian tactics, 152 Ryder, Admiral Sir A. P., K.C.B., 148-150 Salt trade, Russian, 312, 346 San Lorenzo batteries, the convoy passing, 103, 108, 112; Philomel passing, xxxi, 109 San Martin at Obligado, 71, 77, 79, 83; damage to, 88; 95 Saumarez, Admiral Sir J., tactics^ of, 206 ; 261 School-ships, 418 Scurvy, 97 Seaman's letter, a, 1 1 1 Seamen, drink and, 32 ; at play, 44 ; when trusted, 56, 58 ; drilling, 72 73 ; Philomel's behaviour, 1 1 1 ; Merlin's, 126; irnprovement in, xxix, 411 Seamen-battalions, 72, 120, 145 ; at Bomarsund, 181 Seamen, qualities required in, xxii Selection for service, 221, 280, 315; for flag rank, 423 Seniority v. service, 370 Seskar, 185, 186, 192, 354 Sevastopol compared, 90, 263, 266, 340; effects on Russian spirit, 297, 318, 319. 361 Seymour, M., Vice-Admiral of the U. K., G.C.B., captain of Napier's fleet, 144, 151; on Bomarsund plan, 182; at Bomarsund, 220, 231, 250; in praise of, 247; 260, 262, 269 ; at Cronstadt, 287, 299 ; accident to, 303, 306, 307 ; 345 Sheerness defences, 407 Ships' merits in Baltic, 132 Ships V. forts, Obligado, 88-90; Sulivan's warning, 118; Hango, 152-158; Cronstadt, 190; poHcy of Russians, 202-204; Nelson's tactics, 262-265 ; coast defence, 405 Shot and shell, effects of, at Obli- gado, 84-90 Sibbo Fiord, 356 Small-pox in Baltic, 179, 197, 282, 285 Somerset (Lieutenant), L. E. H., at Bomarsund, 239 Somnambulism, case of, 37 Spaniards oppose salvage of wrecks, 17 Spithead defences, 405-410 St. John's, rescue of schooner party, 67-69 St. Michaels, bishop of, 14 Stag, 4 Stakleberg, Baron, 349 Stanley, Mrs., at Falkland Islands, 401 Sternberg, Baron, 309 etseq., 348, 349 INDEX. 441 , Steveley,(?), R.N., at Obligado, 74, 75 Stirling, Bishop, reminiscences of Sulivan, 386-390 Stolces, Admiral, 39 Sub-marine boat, a, 373 Sulivan, Admiral George Lydiard, vii, 6 ; at wreck of Jasper, 274 ; 304, 394 Sulivan, Admiral Thomas Baker M., 374 Sulivan, Admiral Thomas Ball, C.B., vi, vii; career of, 1-6; 51; with Nelson in Baltic, 151, 165 Sulivan, Commander James, 3-8 Sulivan, Commander William S., R.N., at Obligado, 80, 87 ; 148 Sulivan, Commander J. Y. F. S., vii (note), 51 Sulivan, Lady (B. James), vii, viii ; Richards on, xxxii ; 37 ; collects flora of Falklands, 51; during siege of Monte Video, 61, 62, 65 ; at Bournemouth, 391, 394, 395 Sulivan, Lieutenant Daniel Hunt, 3-8 Sulivan, Lieutenant Samuel Hood, 3-8 Sulivan, Lieutenant Thomas E., death of, 393 Sulivan, Mrs. (Thomas Ball), charac- ter of, vii Sunday services and work, ix, xxx, xxxi, 137, 181, 228; in fleet, 291, 297 , Surveying, in Beagle, 40-42 ; in Parana, 107, 108, 115 ; Baltic, 120; instructions re, 123; Na- pier's opinion re, 128, 134, 136, 262 ; his despatch re surveyors, 240; a unique cruise, 351 ; ser- vice, Sulivan on the, 415-417; work, Sulivan's, x, xiii, xxii ; offi- cial recognition of service, xxvii, 418 Sweaborg, delay in examining, 135, 136, 150, 151; flag-of-truce to, 199, 298; 203, 204; French ad- miral at, 244 ; party under Sulivan nearly netted at, 259, 261 ; plans of attack on, 266 et seq.; defences of, 270 ; Sulivan's scheme against, 270 ei seq.; Dundas's hesitancy, 275 ; preparations against, 279, 280; the admiral's view, 281; detached forts attacked, 304, 309 ; bombardment of, 318 et seq.; bun- gles, 32^-325; opening fire, 329; effects of mortar fire ; 335, 345, 358, 406 ; batteries uninjured, 340; despatches re, 341, 342; losses at, 361 ; effects on peace, 367 ; honours for, 367, 368 ; rapid mortar fire at, 368 Sweden, attitude of, 130, 131 ; refuses Bomarsund, 254 Swedish pilots, 134, 139 TcHESTERKOFF, Commodore, re Sulivan, 374 Tea V. grog-drinking, 12 Theorell, Lieutenant, 133, 166 Thetis, 11-30; song re, 16; nearly fires into .Fair ley, 25 Thorn, Colonel, at Obligado, 79 Tierra del Fuego, mission to, xxviii, 387 Titles of naval officers, 41 1, 423 Tonnelero batteries, 1 10 Townshend, Marquis of, on Napier, 202 Trave, 3 Tr^houart, Admiral, xxiv, 74 ; gal- lantry at Obligado, 77, 78, 80, 88, 91 ; ascends Parana, 91, 97, loi ; made admiral, 91, 103, 374 Tucker, Admiral Jervis E., 14, 15, 20 Tupper, W. L. M. (23rd R. W. F.), 17, 18 Urquieza, General, 55, 100, 105 Uruguay river, expedition up the, 66 Usborne, Admiral Alexander Burns, 22,45 Vansittart, Captain N., 350, 353 Vertical fire, at Obligado, 88; at Sweaborg, 329 et seq. ; Colonel Wemyss on, 342; Lieutenant Grivel (French) on, 343 ; Sulivan advocates, 406 et seq. ; foreign countries using, 409, 410; Lord Wolseley on, 410 Viborg, 285 Volunteers, royal dockyard, xxv, 397- 400 ; army, origin of, 426 Vulture, disaster to boats of, 143. 180 29 442 INDEX. War appliances, lack of, in Parana, 69; in Baltic, 296; Admiral Hamilton on, 316 War declared, 1854, 129 War, effects on Russian transit, 362, 429 War, horrors of, 284, 360 War, how to conduct, 160, 194, 197, 337-339. i'i^etseq. War policy, the best, 297, 318, 319 Warren, Miss, 51 Warren, R., wounded at Obligado, 88 Washington, Captain (Hydro- grapher), letters from, 139, 140, 242, 317; on Sweaborg, 347 Washington, capture of, 4 Watson, Captain R. B., at Cron- stadt, 187 et seq., 192; 241, 243- 245, 260, 279, 346 Wave, sixty-five feet high, 23 Wellington on intuition of survey, x; on the Press in war, 361, 362 Wemyss, Colonel Sir T. H., K.C.B., 275, 329 et seq., 336, 342; pro- moted, 368 Weser, 3 Wolseley, Viscount, on vertical fire, 410; as engineer, 416 Wodehouse, Admiral George, 15, 21, 24, 245 Wood, Sir C, 272, 365, 370 Wood V. iron, ships' bottoms, 241 Woolwich, 3 Wormso, 149, 308, 348 Wrottesley, Lieutenant the Hon. C, killed at Bomarsund, 231, 236 Yelverton, Admiral the Hon. Sir Hastings, G.C.B., at Hango, 148, 150; action at Ekness, 157, 160; 212; seamanship, 241 ; at Hogland, 300 ; forced (?) guests, 301 ; pro- tects Lovisa and Ekness, 311 ; Russian boats, 353 ; humanity of, 358 Young, Admirals ; James ; Sir William ; James ; Secretary, xii Printed by Hazell, Watsor, & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury.