Cornell XHnfvet8it\> OF THE IRew IPorfe State College of agriculture HviiHS i.«M± 584 SB 98.W8 COme " Un,versit * L,brar y 3 1924 003 485 251 GASSELLS Home Handbooks By William W. Broomhead Indispensable in the Home. Poultry and Profit. It is done in a thoroughly modern and f>ractical fashion, lightened up with helpful illustrations, and ikely to be a real aid to the poultry fancier who is out for profit. By J. E. Davis The Elements of Modern Dressmaking. Practical papers by an experienced writer on dressmaking, illustrated with numerous diagrams. By A. G. Payne Practical Home Cookery. A number of articles on home cookery, suited to housewives of moderate means. Simple and easy recipes are given for attractive dishes, and there is a special chapter on diet for invalids. By Florence Stacpoole Advice to Women. A useful and instructive volume on the care of the health before, during, and after confinement, with helpful hints on the care of the new-born infant. By Phyllis Browne Practical Housekeeping. A collection of practical hints on the management of ordinary households, intended for the use of those who are just beginning the responsibilities of a home. By A Lawyer The Home Lawyer. A volume which explains the law for householders and business men in so clear a manner that it can be comprehended with ease and satisfaction. It furnishes valuable legal advice on a variety of subjects. By A Practical Nurse Cassell's Home Doctor. The commoner ailments of life can be warded off without external aid with the help of this useful volume. Its explanations are full and simple, and the prescriptions popular in style. By A Fellow of the Royal College of Physicians and Phyllis Browne CooHery for Common Ailments. A practical dietetic guide to the invalid, in which the food problem is stated not merely in scientific terms, but in the form of actual dishes which will prove digestible and palatable. By A. G. Payne Vegetarian CooKery. > Appeals to those who ought to adopt a vegetarian diet on account of their health, and to those who would follow it with great advantage also to their pockets. By Mrs. Samuel A. Barnett The Making of the Home. Contains in its pages much useful information on the important subject of domestic economy. Every subject which influences the comfort and well-being of the borne is dealt with. By Florence Stacpoole Our Sick... and How to take Care of Them. Full of useful hints. The volume tells in a plain and simple manner how the sick should be nursed, with the greatest comfort to themselves, and with a minimum of labour to those who attend them. By Lady Colin Campbell Etiquette of Good Society. A handy little volume which describes in detail the etiquette to be observed on all special occasions — Christenings, Weddings, Funerals, Dinners, Balls, &c. &c. Visiting, Letter-writing, and the Toilet are amongst the other subjects dealt with in this useful book. Of all Booksellers and Newsagents, or post free 3d. extra from CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVACE, LONDON, E.C. Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003485251 The old white climbing rose, Felicite Perpetue, covering arch in an amateur's garden. Pictorial Practical Gardening A USEFUL MANUAL FOR ALL CLASSES OF HORTICULTURISTS GIVING CONCISE DIRECTIONS FOE THE CULTURE AND SELECTION OP THE LEADING FLOWERS, FRUIT, AND VEGETABLES WALTER P. WRIGHT Horticultural Superintendent under the Kent County Council WITH UPWARDS OF ONE HUNDRED AND FORTY ILLUSTRATIONS CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne mcmxii V First Edition July igoo. Reprinted August and October igoo, November igoi, March 1903, July 1904, September 1905, May 1907, /w/y 1909, March- igiij May 1912. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PREFACE As no one reads long prefaces, except the author and his feminine connections, I will content myself with saying that the object of this book is to present a concise and pleasurable introduction to practical gardening. There are many books on gardening, but I have cast this in a way^of my own, chiefly in order to compress as much information as possible into the space at command. Naturally, it will not suit the old style of writer and reader, who require a whole chapter to describe the sowing of a packet of Cress ; but there are a few thousands of other gardening people in the world, among whom it may find favour. W P W # % A complete Pictorial Gardening Calendar, likewise an Index, will be found at the end of the book. Clay's Fertilizer Where regularly used Makes the Garden a Picture It produces Flowers, Fruits, Vegetables, and Foliage in perfection and abundance. CLAY'S FERTILIZER A perfectly safe and useful manure, containing the three chief elements of plant foods, viz., nitrogen, potash and phosphoric acid. It is a proprietary specific in general use, adaptable to all forms of soil preparation, and is applied with advan- tage to plants in pots, and for the production of flowers, fruits and vegetables grown in the open. (Cassell's Dictionary of Gardening, p. 217). It is Sale, Sure, Quick and Lasting, and it is unsurpassed lor all Horticultural lurposes. ^VAVk THE ONLY GUARANTEE OF GENUINENESS. •f. if Every Tin, Bag and Seal mist bear the Trade Mark, as t.LONDONq; shown at side. Unless so safeguarded, the purchaser runs *\ ^jS/ the risk of being supplied with an adulterated or even a I \ LA worthless compound), for which the Proprietors of CLAY'S TRADE MARK FERTILIZER cannot be held responsible. It is sold everywhere in Tins. 6d. and 1/- ; Branded and Sealed Bags : 7 lbs. , 2/6 : 14 lbs., 4/6 : 28 lbs., 7/6 ; 56 lbs., 12/6 ; 112 lbs., 20/-. Or direct from the Works, Carriage paid in the United Kingdom for Cash with Order {.except 6d. TINS). NOW READY. The Fourth Edition (Second Reprint) ot day's Successful Gardening A POPULAR HORTICULTURAL HANDBOOK. 276 pages. Bonnd in Cloth. Price 9d. net. It treats of the various Departments of Gardening in a series of admirably written and informing Articles by the following, amongst other, Horticultural Writers of note :— George Gordon, V.M.H., F.R.H.S. ; T. W. Sanders, F.L.S.. F.R.H.S. ; John Wright, V. M. H ,F.R.H S.; C.H.Curtis, F.R.H.S. ; J. Harrison Dick, F.R.H.S.; J. Fraser, F.L.S., F.R.H.S. ; Horace Wright, F.R.H.S.; James Hudson. V.M.H., F.R.H.S.; Edwin Beckett, V.M.H., F.R.H.S.; W. Iggulden, F.R.H.S. ; J. Udale, F.R.H.S.; E. H. Jenkins, F.R.H.S. ; H. Hemsley, F.R.H.S. ; H. C. Prinsep; Mrs. Richmond, F.R.H.S., etc. CLAY'S SUCCESSFUL GARDENING may be obtained from Seedsmen, etc., for the small sum of 9d. net, or direct from the Publishers, post free ior that amount. Write for Prices of Crushed Bones, Bone Meal, and other Manures, Chemicals ant Sundries. f**\ A \f O. Oj?"\M Manure Manufacturers, Bone ULAT Cfe OUIY, Crushers. &c. STRATFORD, LONDON, E. Face Front Matter] Pictorial Practical Gardening SECTION I. THE FLOWER GARDEN. CHAPTER I.— GARDENS OF BEAUTY AND ORDER. HOSE who practise horticulture are frequently accused of being a self-assured race, lacking nothing of loquacity but something of modesty. The eternal I is credited with being the word most quoted, and every gardener is supposed to hold his neigh- bours (if an amateur) or his master (if a professional ) in a state of abject terror. He has the soul of a despot, the ferocity of a brigand, and ever so many more wicked traits, the whole of which, if the manner of his critics goes for anything, he holds. ~~ the monopoly of; the rest of mankind being of a sweet, gentle, and tractable nature, loving mildness of speech, truthful- ness, and justice with a devout fervour. Now if, in this my book, I lay myself open to the charge of egotism by reason of making (although for good and sufficient reasons) allusion to my own practice, I hope I may be partially absolved for the merit of stopping speech whenever an illustration will serve the purpose in view. An experience of eight years as a public teacher of horticulture, during which upwards of 2,000 lectures have been delivered, has convinced me that the best way of teaching is by diagram, lantern slide, and demon- stration ; in other words, by appealing to the eye even more than to the ear. And this being so, my readers will doubtless find sketches and plan s more welcome than choice literary flights. As a preliminary to introducing certain simple plans, I would earnestly exhort all who are about to take up gardening, or who, having already commenced, are not making very good progress, to recognise the all- important fact that forethought and system are necessary to success. Plants require time to grow and room to develop. Make a forecast of the time and space they need, and the first step towards triumph is taken. A happy-go-lucky style of gardening results in plants and beds not being ready together, in a dozen specimens being crammed into a space only adequate for two or three, into confusion, loss of money, and disturbance i)f temper. Do not rush things; do not overcrowd. If you have it particular fancy for one flower, such as the Rose, or Carnation, or Chrys- anthemum, study it, grow it' wejl, and then widen your scope. It is 8 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. better to begin thus than to commence by attempting great deeds with all sorts of flowers. When one and the same human being is able to sing like Madame Patti, play cricket like Dr. Grace, write like Mr. Meredith, scout like General Baden-Powell, preach like Dr. Parker, row like Mr. Guy Nickalls, and play golf like Mr. A. J. Balfour, then, and not till then", may we expect an amateur to beat Mr. Lindsell with Boses, Mr. Douglas with Carnations, Mr. Mclndoe with fruit, and Mr. Beckett with vegetables, all in the »ame season. Let me sum it up in a few words : — & 4& In Gardening, Beauty, Economy, and £j Serenity are ensured by exercising <$S Foresight and Moderation. S* Setting out to give plans of gardens it not exactly an enviable task, for the reason that there is a great diversity of sizes and shapes. We might take as types : — (1) The back garden of the town house. (2) The long, narrow strip of ground behind suburban terrace honses. (3) The wider yet still rectangular pieces connected with larger detached houses. (4) The gardens of half an acre or more outside the larger towns. In Fig. 1 is given a, plan suitable for the second type. References : — A, D. — Borders, with fruit trees on the walls. B. — Lawn. C, C, C— Path. E.— Sloping border. FA— Hedge. F, F.— Border. G, G.— Path. H.— Flower beds. J. — Sweet Peas. K. — Strawberries, L. — Trellis screen. M. — Rubbish corner. N. —Tool Shed. [N.B.— The section behind the hedge may be given up to vegetables, if desired.] In Fig. 2 (page 10) is shown a plan suitable for the third type. Pig. l, HOU5E —Plan of Small Villa Garden. CHAPTER II.— LAWNS AND MOWERS. Bbfobk proceeding to consider the variouii Styles of flower gardening, and the plants and arrangements appropriate to them, it may bis useful to devote a little space to certain important adjuncts, devices, and appliance*!. TEE MAKING OF LAWNS. 9 There . is, to begin with, the grass plot or lawn. Many people's efforts in making lawns result in nothing but backaches and bird feasts, bat it is not a very difficult matter to get a luxuriant sward what time the baffled sparrow chirps disgustedly on the roof. The first point that crops up in connection with Fig. 4. —Turf Cutler made from a Piece of an old Scythe. making a lawn is whether turf or seeds should be employed. This is a much debated matter. A clergyman of my acquaintance, whose daughter was keen on having a tennis court, fell into the clutches of two rival factions, and they disputed the matter with such ferocity that he Fig. 5.— Tool to take up Turf. Fig. 3.— Turf Cutter, grew apprehensive, and, being a peace-loving man, dropped the project altogether. (Another view, which came from the daughter, was that a too economical parent found in the quarrel a convenient excuse for saving expense on the court.) I have made plots both with turves and seeds, and if I had others to make I should go in for the former with- out hesitation, always supposing I could get good turf. Bough, tussocky stuff, full of coarse grasses, I would not have at a gift, with free cart- age thrownin. When meadow or park land is being cut up for building purposes it is often possible to buy the turf, some- times ready cut. On the assumption, however, that some Fig 6.— Turf Beater. persons may have to cut their own turf, I show in Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 some handy tools for the purpose. The heart-shaped iron (Fig. 5) is very useful to raise the turf with, but an ordinary spade may be used. Again, such a cutter as is represented in Fig. 3 may well be brought into play where there is much turf to be cut, but. in qases where the quantity is small an old kitchen or garden knife, or 10 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. ,2 SLOPING BORDER . to; JHH'f R ttH>l JL '^»WMWi||*Wlll!lJlllilllllll**«>*^ SLOPING BORDER FLOW!" BEOS ON TUBF OR *l*mt COUH1 CD ARCHED TREWS WTTM CRIMSON SAMBLER R0S« a handy appliance like Fig. 4, or even a sharp spade, will suffice. Fig. 6 shows a beater. Here are a few concise rules for turfing, and I could not make my advice more practical if I wrote ten pages : — (1) Do not begin either at midwinter or midsummer; early autumn . or late winter ' ° » " '""■ '*>' " is the best time. (2) Thoroughly digtheground which is to be turfed, and if it is very poor work in a dressing of de- cayed manure, avoiding,how- ever, all risk of making it rank. (3) Take scrupu- lous care to make it per- fectly level. (4) Lay the edges close together and ram the turves vigor- ously. In dull, show- ery weather the " binding" will be rapid, and the trouble of water- ing, so serious a matter in dry summer weather, will be done away with. In providing narrow strips of turf for grass paths, the ques- tion of mowing should be remem- bered ; as a rule, it is not well to have the paths narrower than 1 foot. The same consideration has weight in connection with grass banks. These have a very agreeable appearance, but they are rather troublesome to mow. Fig. 7 shows how to get a level on a sloping surface before turfing or seeding. The one great advantage of raising lawns from seeds is that a very fine turf can be secured. The seedsmen nelect specially slender, delicate looking grasses for their lawn mixtures. o X ] js LINE OF SHRUBS LINE OF SHRUBS n V. OS j © ¥ « 1L > 1 or £ J r D Cm o 1 LAWNS FROM SEED. 11 and, if properly managed, beautiful springy plots are had by their use. The following are the salient points: — (1) The best time to sow is during showery weather, from the middle of March to the middle of April. (2) The ground having been previously dug and levelled, make it perfectly firm with a rammer or with the back of a Fig. 7.— Preparing Slope for Sowing on Turfing. (3) Scratch it over with a rake, and sow. (4) The rate may be £ lb. of seed per square rod. (5) Scatter a thin coating of fine soil over the seed. (6) Fix up some tanned netting, birds. or wire, or threads, to keep off the (7) When the grass is 2 inches high, skim off the tops with a scythe and pass the roller across to " spread" the roots. By these means a fresh, thick, elastic piece of turf can be secured. (8) Fig. 8 shows a temporary edging for a newly sown grass-plot, it will effectually prevent the edge crumbling down on to the walk. I will say a word about mowing machines. There are some beautiful little instruments now to be had, as perfect and easy-running as a racing Bicycle. 1 am not prepared to say which is the best ; very likely there is no best. I can, however, mention one or two which I know to be good. One is the " Pennsylvania " (Lloyd, Lawrence and Co.) ; another is the " Anglo-Paris " (Ransomes, Sims and Jefferies, Limited) ; a third is Green's. Such machines as these are worth taking care of, for, with a little attention, they will last for many years and give no trouble. In the first place, let us give a moment's considera- tion to the main principle of the mow- ing machine. A set of knives revolve close to a fixed horizontal blade — in fact, all but touching it. If the revolving shaft be Fig. 8. — Holding up an Edge of Sown Grass. loose, we get the same result as with loose adjusting cones on the bicycle^-i.o. uneven working and much clatter. By tightening or loosening the screws in the bearings above and below the shaft (Fig. 9, p. 12) it can be adjusted so as to run with perfect freedom, yet without jumping or jerking. The knives on the revolving shaft will not require sharpening, but after two or three seasons' work the horizontal cutting blade (Fig. 10) may require grinding. In this case remove it by means of the screws which will be found near each end (in the " Pennsylvania " the blade is attached by four screw* 12 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. equidistant), and send it to the ironmonger's. This should be done in February or March if required, so that the machine may be all ready for use in April. Fig. 11 shows the front rollers, which should be sound and in free running order. In some machines there is one continuous roller attached to an iron shaft ; in others two or three shorter ones. In both they are adjustable by means of the screws and nuts which are to be found at each end. Other points connected with machines and mowing are : — (1) To oil the machine through the holes provided over the bearings and gear. (2) To make quite sure that no small stones are scattered on the lawn. (3) To remove the grass box, and let the mowings lie and decay if the turf be weak. (4) To thoroughly cleanse the machine after use, either by brushing or swilling with hot water. (5) To remember that a 10-inch machine of good make, and well preserved, will do more work than a 16-inch of a cheap class and in bad order. If the lawn gets patchy the bare spaces should be well scratched over with a rake, some soil scattered on and made firm, and seed thickly sown. Give water if the weather be dry, and protect from birds. If the trouble be general it would be well to procure some well - decayed manure, rub it through a sieve, and spread it on the grass in autumn or winter. lig. 9. — Bearings of Slowing Machine. Fig. 10. -SCREW MOLES -Catting Plate of Mowing Machine. CHAPTER III — EDQINQS. Greatly though a well-kept piece of grass embellishes a garden, neat edgings are required to complete the order- ly appearance, except where turf comes to the edge of the walks. Now edgings are very often a source of embarrassment. Box looks extremely well, but has the repu- tation of harbouring slugs. (What does not afford shelter to these miserable pests ? They are capable of finding a Port Arthur in every inch of the garden.) There is a real objection to Box, and that is the time required to keep it neat. Fig. 11. — Boiler of Mowing Machine. GARDEN EDGINGS. 13 Floral edgings are charming during certain periods of the year, and the general index will guide the reader to a selection of plants for this purpose. There are several mechanical edgings. Nothing looks better than Staffordshire tiles, and the only drawback is expense. A very cheap and fairly durable edging ' may be formed by getting 8-inch deals sawn through the centre into 4-inch widths, fixed on edge, and supported by B ■%.:-A , ""'•" W &. \ Fig. 12.— An Edging of Bricks laid Lengthwise. Fig. 13. — An Edging of Bricks alternately Lengthwise and' on End. pointed battens driven in at every 4 or 5 feet, as shown in the lawn edging, Fig. 8. They must have at least three coats of paint. Fig. 12 shows an edging of plain bricks laid lengthwise, Fig. 13 one of bricks laid alternately lengthwise and on end, Fig. 14 one of rough stones, and Fig. 15 one of arched Willows. All of these are inexpensive. Fig. 16 shows a handy little bridge which may be brought into use for protecting Box, tile, or other edgings when a wheelbarrow is taken over. The following re- cipes for paths may be useful : — To Make an Asphalt Path.— Get some dry lime rubbish and coal ashes, and pulverise and sift them till quite fine. To 2 bushels of the former add 1 bushel of the latter. Mix them well, then make a hole in the middle of the heap and pour in enough boiling coal tar to make a mortar. Beat the ground firm, and spread the stuff on 3 inches thick, at once covering with coarse sand. Roll when cold. To Blake a Concrete Path. — Spread down a few inches of brickbats, flints, or clinkers. Then take 5 bushels of well- screened gravel and 5 of pit sand. With these mix 1 bushel of Portland cement, using water; ' and spread it down 1 inch thick To Drain Paths. — In spreading down the rubble at the base have it 2 or 3 inches higher at the Centre than at the sides. Lay down horizontal drainpipes at the sides oh a level with the base of the rubble, and at every 30 feet or so fix catchpits 18 inches to 2 feet deep, sur- mounted by a grating. To Destroy Weeds 6n Walks.— There are various methods of destroying weeds on walks. Salt is usually decried nowadays, on tn.e ground that if it does not happen to kill the weeds it acts the other way Fig. 14. — An Edging of Rough Stones. 14 PIOTOBIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. and nourishes them. Nevertheless, if the salt is stirred into very hot water at the rate of a handful per gallon and applied through a rosed watering-can it is effectual. The advertised weed killers, such as Smith's and the Acme, cost rather more, but they make a clean sweep of the weeds. CHAPTER IV.— SOIL PREPARATION. I MAT now proceed to offer a few remarks on the subject of flower garden decoration in its many phases — a task at once delightful and bewil- rrf?ras.«w* eS ' dering, so much of Fig 15.— An Edging of Arched Willows charmistbereinit and so varied are its forms. As a useful means of opening up the subject, I may say that, however great the diversity of systems and material, there is one preliminary to success with all, and that is thorough preparation of the soil. There are persons, ambitious of success in gardening, who display a noble scorn for such a mundane proceeding as digging, and I have lively recollections of the disgust of more than one neophyte when bidden to make a start by wielding a spade. Nevertheless, there is no possibility of success without tillage, and I strongly urge' the amateur to pocket pride and go to work. If physically incapable of the exertion involved, a labourer or an odd " gardener " must be employed ; but experience teaches me that the amount of watching these gentry require in order to avoid having the work scamped is a rather more arduous undertaking than the real task. If the horticultur- ist enters a garden whence come the magnificent vegeta- bles and fruits that win prizes at the principal shows, he will almost invariably find that the soil is very deeply culti- vated and very highly fed. Soil for flowers must be equally well tilled, although it would not be wise to use so much manure, for fear of encouraging gross foliage at the expense of blossom. In the case of borders furnished with perennial plants free annual tillage is difficult. It is therefore all the more necessary that the work should be thoroughly done when the borders are first made. The best time is late autumn or winter, because the soil becomes well " weathered " by the time spring comes and crumbles readily when the sowing or planting period arrives. Bastard trenching is even better than digging, because the subsoil i* broken up and the rooting area increased. Fig. 17 makes this process clear. jr/ eba/j/o &r[ib0£. Fig. 16. — This shows a handy little bridge for preventing N injury to Box when a barrow is being run on to the border. A, a, a. — Ground level, b.— Box edging, o, o, c, c. — Supports, d, p. — Flanks. SOIL PREPARATION. 15 Cinders, refuse from garden fires, and road sweepings are all excellent for working into stiff soils. The following sums up an admirable course of procedure for securing perfect tillage: — (1) Bastard trenching in late autumn. (2) Forking over in spring, so as to break up the lumps. (3) A good raking, so as to secure a level surface and a fine tilth. Some further remarks about soils will be found on reference to the general index. CHAPTER V.— ROCKERIES AND BORDERS. A beautiful garden is usually made up of several components. It is not attractive simply because? of one bed, or border, or shrub, or tree, but because of a harmonious association of the whole of them. Thus, if there isunceasing work,there is also unceasing delight. A garden of one level is not the most beautiful one. It may be pretty and pleas- ing and afford very deep and lasting pleasure, but it is not quite perfect. By providing here a mound, there a sunk bed, yonder an arch, and here a rock bed, with stumps or pillars covered with Ivy or Clematis dotted about, uniformity is broken up. PICTORIAL PRACTICE. — PLAIN HINTS IN FKW WORDS. Fig. 17.-BASTAED TRENCHING. A: — Line through centre of plot to be trenched. First make a trench A, and place the soil at g. Then work from h to d, turning over the sub- soil, but not bringing it to the surface. Fill trench d with soil from trench j the other side of the line. Work from & to t and fill trench t with soil g. The sunk bed and the mound form a natural pair, for the soil taken from the one forms the other. A beautiful sunk bed, small or large, may be made by excavating the soil to a depth of 3 feet, planting Tea Bosee in the centre, and on the sloping sides having free-growing Boses pegged down. This is a really lovely adjunct to a garden, and flowers may be cut nearly every month in the year. For selections of varieties see the chapter on Boses, With the soil thrown out form a mound in a shady part, insert logs or tree stumps, and plant hardy Ferns between them. Even more desirable for impartine diversity to the frarden is a rockery 16 PIOTORIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. A book might be written on the charms of rock flowers : they ara an exquisite class, abounding in interest and pleasure. But, in spite of the fact that there is scope enough in the subject for a volume, it would be a great mistake to suppose that rockwork gardening is unsuitable for small places. I am almost tempted to say the smaller the garden the more desirable it is to have a rockery, inasmuch as a greater number of plants may be grown on its slopes than on the flat. In any case this much may be said — a rockery may be successfully carried on in a very small garden indeed, and immense enjoyment may be derived from it. If I were to sum up the principal essentials to success in a few words, I should say : — (1) Select an open, sunny position. (2) Use a large quantity of soil in pro- portion to the stones. (3) Let the soil be good. Rock plants will not succeed, generally speaking, in the shade, ind they will not thrive in tiny pockets of poor soil. The series of illustrations given herewith. Figs. 18 to 21, show both bad and good methods of making rockeries, and can hardly fail, therefore, to prove instructive. A rockery might be made very attractive at a small cost by relying mainly on dwarf plants raised from seed, such as Alyssums, Aubrietias, Arabises, Ionopsidium acaule, Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Tagetes. The following is a selection of rock plants which may be found useful : — Fig. 18.— Building Rockeries ; many stones, little soil— bad. A SELECTION OP PLANTS FOB BOCKWOBK. Achillea tomentosa. Androsace carnea. Anemone blanda. Arabis albida. Aubrietia graeca. „ Leichtlinii. Campanula Portenschlagiana, and other forms. Cheiranthus alpinus (Wallflowers). Chionodoxas in variety. Cyclamen Oram. Dianthus neglectus, and other Pinks. Dog's-tooth Violets. Draba aizoides. Erica carnea (Heath). Fritillaria Meleagris. Gentiana verna and' G. acaulls. Iberis correaefolia. Iris stylosa. „ persica. Lithospermum prostratum. Muscari azureus. Omphalodes verna. Rhododendron prsecox. PLANTS FOB ROOKERIES. 17 A SELECTION OF FLAB IS FOB ROCK WORK (continued). Bazifraga Burseriana. „ oppositifolia. „ longifolia. „ sancta. Scillas. Sedums. Sempervivums. Borders partially or wholly furnished with hardy perennials may be made an at- tractive feature of all gardens, large or small. This style of gardening is becoming more popular every year, and rightly so, because by it we get variety, informality, and a long succession of bloom. It would be quite possible to have a beautiful and diversi- fied border by relying Silene alpestris. „ Schafta. Sisyrinchium grandiflorum. Snowdrops (such as Galanthus Elwesii). Spring Snowflakes (Leucojum). Sun Roses (Helianthemums). Veronica prostrata. 7m a mm < ... wp «P-/' ' I " Sdfcv JH f ■ jww 19.— Building Rockeries ; fewer stones, more soil— good the following short list alone : — SOME GOOD PERENNIALS FOR THE BOEDER. Anemones. •Aquilegias (Columbines). Fig. 20.- -Building Rockeries ; the terrace system, plants covering face of stones. 'Canterbury Bells and other Cam- panulas. •Carnations. Early Chrysanthe- mums. •Delphiniums (peren- nial Larkspurs). * Foxgloves. Gladioli. ♦Hollyhocks. Irises. Michaelmas Daisies. Paeonies. Perennial Phloxes. Pyrethrums. •Snapdragons (An- tirrhinums). ♦Sweet Williams and other members of t he Dianth us family . Violas. Those marked with an asterisk are easily And inexpensively raised from seed ; and as this mode of increase commends itself to many, especially 18 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. to those of limited means, I give the names of other plants of which seed can he had at a cheap rate from almost any seedsman : — PERENNIALS EASILY Alyssum saxatile compactum, yellow, dwarf, blooms in spring. Arabis alpina, white, dwarf. Aubrietia graca, mauve, dwarf. Campanula carpatica, blue, dwarf. „ pyramidalis, blue or white, tall. Gaillardias, various, medium. EAISED FROM SEED. Gypsophila paniculata, silvery sprays, useful for cutting. Myosotis (Forget-me-not), blue, spring. (Enothera (Evening Primroses), yellow. Pansies. Poppies, various. There are scores of others, but very long lists might confuse. Of the flowers named above, special attention is given to Carnations and Chrysanthe- mums, as will be seen by reference to the index. - It would be well to utter a word of warn- ing regarding the time and attention required by hardy flower bor- ders — a matter on which there is much misconception. It does not suffice to plant up the borders and then leave them alone. They require annual attention, forking up wherever possible, dividing up such strong growers as Michaelmas Daisies, and top- dressing where the soil becomes poor. Fig. 21.— Building Rockeries j a rook bed for Alpines. CHAPTER VI.— A CHAT ABOUT ANNUALS. The furnishing of a flower garden is usually a task of several years ; in very few cases is it completed in one season. If herbaceous borders are planted somewhat thinly, as they should be if the plants are to have plenty of room when they develop, there are numerous spaces which may be temporarily filled with annuals. These flowers only occupy the ground for a few months, and with proper restrictions need do no harm whatever to the permanent occupants. At the same time they are very pretty, cheerful, easily grown, and cheap. In order to have annuals at their best they must be given plenty of room ; if crowded they become drawn, flower poorly, and are soon over. A " pinch " of seed taken up between the finger and thumb will suffice for a patch 6 inches square. The seed should be sprinkled with a waving motion of the hand over the whole of the space, so that it does not fall thickly on one particular spot. Do not be tempted to use more seed than the quantity indicated, as it will only entail trouble. If a fine tilth has been secured by the cultural operations referred to on a previous page nearly every seed will germinate. In the case of beds, sow as in Fig. 22, not as in Fig. 23. The plants may be thinned a little as they grow until RAISING ANNUALS. 19 they eventually stand 3 or 4 inches apart. They will then flower profusely; whereas if crowded they will be almost worthless. The early half of April is generally the best time to sow. I recommend the following as hardy annuals worth grow- Fig. 22.— How to Rcise Strong Annuals when Bowing in Beds, ing in any garden : — A SELECTION OP HARDY ANNUALS. Name. Height. Colour. 1J feet Yellow. 1 foot Crimson and white. Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum .. 2 feet Various. 1} feet Rose and white. lfoot Various. 1 foot Orange. 1 } feet Rose. ,, Duchess of Albany 1} feet White. 1 foot Various. 6 inches Yellow and white. Linum grand i riorum rubrum .. 9 inches Crimson. Nasturtium Empress of India „ 9 inches Scarlet. 6 inches Blue. 9 inches Blue. 1* feet Various. 9 inches Pink. 6 inches Rose. 9 inches Fink and white. Sous Sweet Scented Annuals. lfoot Yellow. 6 inches Lilac. 6 inches White and yellow. 6 feet Various. lfoot Purple, yellow, and white. Fig. 28.— How to Raise Weak Annuals when Sowing in Beds. The class termed half-hardy annuals, the principal mem- bers of which are Asters, Stocks, Mari- golds, Nemesias, Phloxes, Salpiglos- see, and Zinnias, are best raised in a greenhouse or frame, the last-named kind having bottom heat 20 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. if possible. Either shallow boxes or pans (a wide, shallow form of dower pot) should be used for sowing, and the soil with which they are fa 9 = ~ „«£ " ° S.5g8h filled should be finely pulverised potting mould. In the case of boxes, draw shallow drills with a lead pencil and scatter the seed thinly in them. In the case of pans, sprinkle the seed over the surface. Fig. 24 (see above) A SELECTION OF ANNUALS. 21 teaches a useful lesson in respect to raising — in fact, if the hints in the illustration are borne in mind, success may be regarded as certain. With regard to pricking-out the seedlings — i.e. transferring them from the seed receptacle to another where they can have more room — observe the following rules : — (1) Prick out when the little plants have formed another pair of leaves besides the seed leaves. (2) Have the soil friable and moist. (3) Set the little plants in up to the seed leaves (Fig. 25). (4) Give a sprinkling of water through a rose to settle them in. (5) Keep them shaded from hot sun for three or four days. (6) Keep near the glass, and give abundance of air. Three inches apart is a good distance, but Phloxes, which are strong growers, may have 1 inch more. When they have developed sufficiently to touch each other plant them in the garden. Those who have no greenhouse, and are short of frame room, should provide themselves with a small box, or series of boxes, such as that represented in B « «. Fig. 26 (page 22). Hundreds of sturdy plants N^l^l^vLs^^^ have been raised in such boxes. ^~~*i^^yo0^!>'^^ The following brief special notes about ^^^^%/^-— ^. annuals may be made : — ^ C^^A^ Y &"0$ Annuals for Cutting. — Annual ---?*■■■-* C?a~r*!l-... Chrysanthemums, Eschscholtzias, Poppies, —*» v«i« X fcr^/Bpn-..-^ Sweet Peas, Sweet Sultans, and many other Pig. 25.— Seedling Ready fri annuals are useful for cutting. Pricking Off. A, A, seed leaves; B, B, rough leaves; A Substitute for Pem.— Gypsophila 0. 0, level for planting, paniculate., which may be flowered like an annual if sown early, must be grown by everybody on account of its great value for cutting. It will " mix " with almost anything, and i9 exceedingly graceful. Night-scented Stock. — Sow patches of this singular plant in numerous inconspicuous spots, as it is ugly by day, but fresh and deliriously sweet at night. Do not be in a hurry to pull it up. You will think it dead by day, and alter your opinion at night, a dozen times over. To Make Mignonette Bloom. — This dear, fragrant old favourite is just a little capricious. It sometimes refuses to thrive, but the addition of a little mortar rubbish or lime to the soil usually induces it to do so. Asters. — So much has the Aster been improved, and so numerous are the varieties in each of the leading sections, that it might almost take rank as a florists' flower. The dwarf Chrysanthernum flowered, Pseony, Quilled, Victoria, Comet, and Ostrich Plume sections are all beautiful, and there are many others. For pots the Dwarf Bouquet is particularly desirable. When bedding Asters out prepare the soil by digging deeply, but do not use much, if any, dung. Wood ashes from a garden fire, mixed with soot, give finer blooms. Asters are subject to the attacks of a black fly, and if this pest is allowed to have its way with them while they are young there is little hope of good results. See index for preventives. Stocks. — It will be well to offer a hint to the beginner that tbes* loTely and fragrant flowers are a little peculiar when young It is easy to 22 PIOTOEIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. keep them, and easy to lose them. All will go well if they have abundance of air, but if kept very wet and close they will damp off. When well grown they are magnificent. Salpiglossis. — This is one of the most beautiful flowers which can be grown, being charming alike in the garden and when cut. Some of its hues are not matched in any other garden flower. It makes a splendid bed in association with Asters. CHAPTER VII.— DESIGNS FOR FLOWER BEDS. It is not often that a garden is composed wholly of borders, one or more flower beds heing included. There is wonderful scope for ingenuity in the planting of beds — that is, if origin- ality is admitted to have merit — and well-arranged, well- kept beds are a source of endless interest and plea- sure. I now propose to submit a few designs for flower beds, some very simple, others a little more elabor- ate. In selecting Pig. 26.— A Home-made Box for Raising Seedlings, grooved to admit of sliding in squares of glass : — A, seed drills ; B, seedlings ; 0, glass j D, division. them due care has been exercised to lncluae designs that may be worked out cheaply ; in fact, beds have been prepared costing as little as sixpence each. Fig. 27 shows an arrangement which, though simple, is very appropriate for a rectangular plot. Heliotrope, Cannas, and Violas.— The oval might be made very distinct, pleasing, and fragrant by planting it with Heliotrope 15 inches apart, amongst which are placed dwarf Cannas 2 feet apart. The crescents would look pretty and fresh if planted with the rich Plum blue Viola Archie Grant, mixed with the silvery-leaved Zonal Geranium Flower of Spring. Novel and Charming. — This is very novel, and has a charming effect. — Plant in the oval corms of Gladiolus Brenchleyensis 18 inches apart, and insert between each pair a plant of the graceful Fern sub- stitute, Gypsophila paniculata. Edge with Viola William Neil. In the crescents plant Crimson Gem Begonias, bordered with white Alyssum or Lobelia, Por Late Planting. — Plant in the centre of the oval Cactus Dahlia Starfish. Fill up around it with white Ostrich Plume Asters. Plant the crescents with dwarf Asters mingled with Salpiglosses. This bed may be planted in June, and will be beautiful in late summer and autumn. DESIGNS FOB FLOWER BEDS. 23 ■ Fig. 28 shows a star bed that would be beautiful for the centre of a lawn. This design may be made very effective, either as a summer or spring bed. (1) Dwarf white Fig. 27.— A Pleasing Set of Beds for Grass. It might be planted in June as follows : Asters ; (2) crimson Stocks ; the lines (3), a silvery - leaved Geranium, such as Flower of Spring or Princess Alexandra ; the spaces (4), mixed Comet Asters ; the spaces (5), mixed Salpiglosses. As a spring bed, it might be planted in November in the following way : (1) dwarf yellow bedding Wall (lowers; (2) dwarf brown bedding Wallflower ; (3) lines of white Arabis ; (4) Joost van Vondel Tulip, crimson ; (5) Keizer's Kroon Tulip, red and yellow. Fig. 29 (page 24) is another nice arrangement for a rectangular plot. It might be furnished as follows : — Carnations and Violas. — The centre bed with mixed Carna- tions, edged with the white Pink Her Majesty ; in the side beds (1, 3, 6, 8) have Viola Countess of Hopetoun, white ; and in the side beds (2, 4, 5, 7) Viola Blue Gown. For June Plant- ing. — Centre bed, Cac- tus Dahlias in variety (see index), with-- or without a marginal band of Heliotrope. The side beds (1, 3, 6, 8), Zonal Geranium West Brighton Gem. The side beds (2, 4, 5, 7), Zonal Geranium Mr. Henry Cox. For Autumn Planting. — Centre bed, Tulips of sorts in threes, each variety in a separate triangle, not all mixed together, with a broad marginal bed of white* Arabis. Side beds (1, 3, 6, 8), white Hyacinths. Bide beds (2, 4, 5, 7), rose Hyacinths. Fig. 30 shows a round bed, which may be made to look charming in several inexpensive ways. i.— This pretty star bed looks well on a lawn. Modes of planting are given. 24 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. Fig. 29. -This charming design is suitable either for spring or summer. See Notes on Planting. For the summer it might be planted as follows : (1) A post might be inserted and a Gloire de Dijon Rose or a scarlet T ropseolum planted ; (2) could be filled with mixed Tuberous Be- gonias (giving prefer- ence, if the position be a very dry one, to Zonal Geraniums) ; (3) could be planted with white Violas; the points (4) could be furnished with dwarf Cannas ; the ring (5) could be sown with Mignonette. This would be very bright, uncom- mon, and sweet. The three beds shown in Figs. 31, 33, and 34 formed a part of the floral arrangements in Hyde Park in 1899, which are famed for their beauty and originality. The designs were not intricate, but the effect was very good in every case. The method of planting is given with each. Carpet bedding is not practised much nowadays, although I well remember its popularity twenty years ago. It happened that in 1877 I was profes- sionally associated with one of the most re- markable examples of this style of bedding in Great Britain, and thousands of people came from all parts to inspect our beds. The interest declined, how- ever, by degrees, and carpet beds are popular no more. Those who wish to revive an old system may study Fig. 32. It would be exceedingly effective in its own par- ticular way if planted In the way indicated. Fig. 80.— This Is a pleasing and by no means intricate dosign. Several ideas for furnishing it are suggested. A PRETTY BED IN HYDE PARK. 25 o o O J O O O O Q o o ' * * • 3 • K • • *t • • * • * • o .. oao o K«X«^X«X« *.«*•** o ■. o o •• • ■ o J|»X°X«K<>X*X*«* o o X • X • *»*•>(•*. ■• o • • x • • x • • x ■ • x • * OO50 OOO o CHAPTER VIII.— SELECTION AND PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. Before quitting the flower garden, an important duty remains to be fulfilled, namely, that of offering hints, in a convenient tabu- lar and pictorial form, on the selec- tion of plants, and also on their propa- gation by cuttings. Here, to begin with, are a few selections : A Selection of Climbers Easi- ly Raised from Seed. •flnnvnlvnlna mainr Pig. SI.— A pretty bed in Hyde Park in 1809. Groundwork of convolvulus major, b bord( r (J) g^,^ muscoideg sta nsneldii j circles in various. border (2) Solanum pyracanthum ; dots (3) China Asters : Eccremocarpus sea- crosses (4) Cannas. ber, orange. Everlasting Peas, red and white. | •Loasa aurantiaca, yellow. •Nasturtium, tall, various. •Tropseolum Lob- bianum, scarlet. A Selection of Ornamental Grasses Easily Raised from Seed. Agrostis nebulosa (Cloud Grass). Arundo conspicua (New Zealand Pampas). Briza gracilis "I '^S^' maxima f G *ass- " J 68). Coix lachryma (Job's Tears). Eragrostis elegans (Love Grass). Eulalia japonica ze- brina. Gynerium argenteum (true Pampas). Isolepis gracilis (pots). | Stipa pennata (Feather Grass). Fig. 32.— A Handsome Carpet Bed. 1, Coleus Verschafleltii ; 2, Pyrethrum aureum cristatum; 8, Alternanthera amGena spectabilis ; 4, Cerastium tomentosum ; 5, Lobelia Crystal Palace Gem ; 6, Alternanthera parony- chioides ; 7, Sedura glaucum. Lagurus ovatus (Hare's Tail). 26 PICTORIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. Everlastings Easily Raised from Seed. Acroclinium. Helichrysum (garden). Heliptermn. Rhodanthes (greenhouse). A Selection of Town Flowers. — Many plants thrive well near towns, so that there is compensation for disappointments with others. Carnations, for instance, succeed, although Roses fail ; Irises do admirably, and so does Lilium candidum, in common with others of this genus. Most bulbous flowers succeed, Daffodils best of all. Single and double Pyrethrums make beautiful clumps, and Michaelmas Daisies grow like Fig. 88.— A Pretty Bed in Hyde Park in 1899. Border (1) Fuchsia Meteor pegged dom crosses (2) dark-foliaged Canna Adrian Robinii ; circles (3) Fuchsia Hra. Marshall groundwork (4) Alternanthera amcena. Willows. Shirley Poppies thrive, and Violas luxuriate if planted in April. Mimuluses (Monkey Flowers) do well ; and nearly all the hardy annuals mentioned in other selections thrive. Amongst sweet flowers remember Musk, Mignonette, and Night-scented Stock, all of which do well. There are no better wall plants than Clematis montana, Winter Jasmine, and Veitch's Virginian Creeper. In early autumn such early Chrysanthemums as Madame Desgranges, Madame Marie Masse, Harvest Home, Ivy Stark, and Ryecroft Glory will bloom beautifully. Shrubs for the Shade. — There are not many shrubs that will thrive well in the shade. Butcher's Broom is the best adapted, bat it cannot be described as particularly handsome. Aucubas are more effective, and do fairly well ; and the same may be said of Berberis (Mahonia) Aquifolium. Three Good Screen Trees.— The Wych Kim, Red-twigged Lime, und Silver Poplar are three handsome screen trees. SELECT 8HRUBS AND IVIES. 27 Dwarf Conifers and Evergreens.— The following short list may be useful : American Arbor- Vitae (makes a capital hedge), Aucuba, Berberis Darwinii, Evergreen Oak, Chinese Juniper, and Thuja dolabrata. A Selection of Beautiful Flowering Shrubs.— The follow- ing are only a few out of the large number of beautiful flowering shrubs : Cydonia japonica, Forsythia suspensa, Guelder Rose (Viburnum Opulus), Lilacs of sorts, Magnolias (Lennae and others), Mezereon (Daphne Mezereum), Mock Oranges (Philadelphus), Eibes sanguineum (Flowering Currant), and Spiraea callosa. Shrubs that will Thrive on Light Soil.— Many handsome Fig. 8*.— A Pretty Bad in Hyde Vark in 1899. Circles (1) Fuchsia gracilis ; crosses (2) Diplacus glutinosus ; dots (3) Cuphea platycentra ; border (4) Alternantliera amoena. flowering and foliage shrubs thrive well on light soil, for instance: Amygdalus purpurea, Aucubas, Cistus lusitanicus, Double Cherry, Cornus sanguinea variegata, Cupressus Lawsoniana alba spica nana, C. L. lutea, Cytisus elongatus, Escallonia Philippiana, Genista praecox and other Brooms, Hollies, Osmanthus illieifolius, Prunus Pissardii, Rhus cotinus, and Sweet Brier. y Handsome Shrubs for Walls. — There are several shrubs well suited to the adornment of walls. One of the best is Leland's Thorn, Cratasgus Lelandii. Another is Cydonia japonica. The latter associates well on a house front with the charming Honeysuckle Lonicera brachypoda. Clematis montana does well, and is easily propagated by cuttings. Winter Jasmine and Skimmia japonica are two well-known yellow shrubs. Some Charming Finks. — Her Majesty, white, Modesty, rosy purple, and Derby Day, pink, are all very beautiful Pinks. Some Handsome Ivies. — The Irish and Raegner's Ivies, both large- leaved sorts, receive a good deal of attention owing to the rapidity with 28 PICTORIAL PR ACTIO AL OARDENINO. which they cover a given space ; but some of the small-leaved varieties, such as baocifera lutea, marmorata elegans, and marginata argentea, are much more beautiful. Flowers that will Succeed in Shady Spots.— As the great majority of flowering plants do not succeed in the shade, it may be nseful to give the following list of popular plants which are an exception to the Fig. 35. — A Cheap Propagator ; the wooden framework, which acts as a stand for the tank. Fig. 36.— A Cheap Propagator, frame and tank ; door (A) to attend to the lamp. rule : Daffodils, Double Daisies, Flag Irises, Lilies of the Valley, Mimu- luses, Pansies, Primroses and Polyanthuses, Periwinkles (Vinca major and minor), Snowdrops, Solomon's Seal, and Spirasas. Some Beautiful Clematises. — Many people's knowledge of Clematises is limited to the blue Jackmanii, but there are scores of beautiful varieties worthy of cultivation. In selecting a few I will class them into three sections, (1) the Jackmanii section, which do best with hard pruning ; (2) the Lanuginosa section, which require moderate prun- ing ; and (3) the Florida section, which must not be pruned at all. Jack- manii section : Jackmanii, blue, and its white variety; Star of India, reddish violet ; and Lady Bovill, pale blue. Lanuginosa section : Anderson- Henryi, white ; Lord Nevill, plum ; and Mrs. Hope, lavender. Florida section: Countess of Lovelace, lilac blue ; and Duchess of Edinburgh, double white. Selections of Begonias, Carnations, Zonal Geraniums, Roses, Violas, etc., are given in the special chapters devoted to those plants. In the meantime, the following tables may be handy for quick reference : — Methods by which the Most Popular Flowers and Ornamental Plants are Propagated. BT SEEDS. Nearly all hardy and half-hardy annuals — see selections. Many biennials and perennials — see separate list. The following florists' flowers : *Begonia, Calceolaria, Cineraria, Cyclamen, Primula, Verbena; likewise Golden Feather, Pansies, Balsams, Petunias, Zinnias, Musk, Primroses and Poly- anthuses, Auriculae, Daisies, Palms. HOW TO STRIKE CUTTINGS. 29 BY CUTTINGS. Host bedding plants, such as Begonia (also seed), 'Calceolaria, 'Geranium (Zonal Pelargonium), Lobelias (also seed), Pansies and Violas, 'Dahlias, Phloxes, Hollyhocks, Finks (pipings), 'Indiarubbers, Marguerites, 'Fuchsias, 'Chrys- anthemums, Tree Carnations, Heliotrope, Berry Solanums (also seed). BY BUDS. 'Roses (also cuttings). BY LAYERS. 'Carnations, most shrubs. BY RUNNERS. 'Violets, Saxifraga sarmentosa (Mother of Thousands). BY DIVISION OF THE'ROOTSTOCK. Many herbaceous and other perennials, such as Irises, Michaelmas Daisies (also cuttings), Saxifrages (also seed), Pyrethrums, Paeonies, Alpine Finks and Phloxes (also seed), Spiraeas, Christinas Roses, Lilies of the Valley, Ferns. BY GRAFTING. Clematises, Virginian Creeper, Ivy (usually restricted to nurseries). BY OFFSETS. Most bulbous flowers, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils and Snowdrops, Anemones, Gladioli, Arum Lilies. * Note.— In this and the following tables many kinds are marked by an asterisk (*). rhis indicates that an engraving or special instructions will be found elsewhere in the book (see index). Cuttings and How to Strike Them.— A Useful Table. A good cutting makes a good plant, a bad one may never make a plant at all. A growing shoot, 3 to 4 inches long, taken from the parent plant justbelow one of the knots (joints) in the stem, with four or five young leaves, and thick in proportion to the vigour of the plant, comes within the description of a good cutting. A shoot with a bloom bud or a flower at the tip, very thin, and with weak, unhealthy leaves, is a bad cutting. All cuttings should be inserted firmly, and most should be covered with glass to check evaporation from the leaves. Some strike readily without bottom heat, but others do not, hence the following table is given. It includes most of the popular flowers raised in this way. Note.— Figs. 35, 36, and 37 (pages 28 and 29) show a propagator which may be made at home without a great outlay. Fig. 39 -A Cheap Propagator ; section of (page 32) shows another. These are very complete apparatus. useful appliances to amateurs. Fig 37. 30 PIOTOBIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. Kind. Month to strike. Indoors or outdoors. Bottom heat. Covering. "Calceolarias (bedding) •Carnations (pot) •Chrysanthemums "Dahlias "Fuchsias Geraniums (pot) . . "Geraniums (bedding) Gardenias .. Heliotropes Hollyhocks tHydrangeas *Indiarubber plants "Lobelias Marguerites Pantries Phloxes, perennial Phloxes, Drum- rnondii "Pinks Solanums, berry . "Violas November February. Nov., Dec, spring March, April March, April Oct., Nov., March August April March Summer April or August October March March November July or August August June September April Oct. and Nov. Outdoors Indoors Indoors Indoors Indoors Indoors Outdoors in boxes Indoors Indoors Indoors In house or frame Indoors Indoors Indoors Outdoors Outdoors Outdoors Outdoors Outdoors Indoors Outdoors None Good, but not indispensable None Not required Not required Not necessary. None Necessary Desirable Desirable Desirable Necessary None None None None None None None Not necessary None Cold frame. Handlight.nell- glass, tumbler. Handlight, bell- glass, tumbler. Handlight,bell- glass, tumbler. Handlight,bell- glass, tumbler. None. None. Bell-glass. HandJight, bell- glass, tumbler. None. None. Bell-glass or tumbler. None. Bell-glass or tumbler. Cold frame. Cold frame. Cold frame. None. None. Bell-glass or tumbler. Cold frame. t An exception to the rule of avoiding cuttings with buds. Choose such. Best Times for Propagating. HARDY ANNUALS FROM SEBD. Out of doors in spring— March or April. Several are also suitable for autumn sowing. See list. HALF-HARDY ANNUALS FROM SEED. Under glass in March ; out of doors at the end of April. HARDY BIEN- NIALS AND PERENNIALS FROM SEED. Out of doors In May or early June, HARDY PEREN- NIALS BY DIVISION. In spring. PROPAQATINQ 0AL0E0LABIA8. 31 Ojs°S 13 o ■■ , «ja « U, sua a "3 .sa e o?„^ u pa o'g 1 ^ a) .. ■S.S--S u -K & « g B 9 -■el -8 32 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. F L R I S T S ' FLOWERS FROM SEED. Under glass in spring BEDDING PLANTS FROM CUT- TINGS. In summer and autumn; Geraniums in August, Calceolarias, Pansies, and Violas in November. Lift Lobelias and strike cuttings in spring. Dahlias in spring. GREENHOUSE AND ROOM FLOWERS FROM CUTTINGS. Chrysanthemums in autumn and spring, Tree Carnations in winter, Indiarubbers in spring or antumn, Geraniums in spring or summer, Marguerites in spring or summer, Fuchsias in spring, Heliotrope in autumn or spring. ROSES FROM BUDS. In July or early August. CARNATIONS FROM LAYERS. In August. SHRUBS FROM LAYERS. In autumn. VIOLETS FROM RUNNERS. In spring ot early summer. CLIMBERS BY GRAFTING. In spring or autumn (usually done in nurseries). BULBS FROM OFFSETS. When lifting after the growth is matured in summer. Note 1.— Soil for freely in ordinary pot- ting soil. If a compost has to be prepared, mix 2 parts of loam with 1 of leaf mould, and add about ^ part of sand. Note 2. — How to Make Cuttings Firm. — Have a piece of blunt stick at hand 5 or 6 inches long — a piece of smoothed fire- wood will do. Insert the cutting, and press the soil well to the base with the stick. Making the soil hard round the top is not enough. Note 3. — Pro- viding Bottom Heat. — This may be Propagating.— Most cuttings will strike Fig. 39.— A Handy Propagator ; A, A, box cut in shape of frame ; B, B, two sheets or glass ; C, C, tank ; D, D, D, loose bricks for frame to rest on j E, lamp. done (a) with manure, (ft) by enclosing the pipes in the corner of a glasshouse, (e) by making or procuring a propagator. If a hotbed of HINTS ON PROPAGATING. 33 manure is made have it well turned to sweeten it, and spread a few inches of soil or Cocoanut fibre refuse on the top. Rank steam in the frame would kill the cuttings. If the pipes are enclosed put in 6 to i) inches of Cocoanut fibre and keep moist. Note 4. — A Useful Propagator. — Have a covered zinc tray made 3 inches deep, with inlet and outlet. Construct a plain deal frame to support the tray about 18 inches above the ground, glazing the sides and top. Fill the tray with water and stand a lamp or fix a gas-jet under- neath. Cover the tray with Cocoanut fibre to the depth of 6 inches. A propa- gator 3 by 2 feet is a useful size. Note 5. — Covering Cut- tings. — A glass covering facilitates the rooting of cut- tings by checking evaporation from the leaves. Handlights and bell - glasses, large and small, are made for this special purpose. One or two reserve tumblers may, however, be pressed into service. What- ever is used should be removed and wiped dry when moisture gathers. Fig. 40.- -The beautiful white Carnation Ensign, raised by Mr. Martin Smith. 'See page 36.) N o t e 6 . - Hardening Young Plants. — Cuttings struck in heat must be exposed to the air directly they have rooted and' commenced to grow, hut must not be stood in the open air or in a draughty conservatory. They should be kept for two or three weeks in a cool house or frame. 34 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. OUTDOOR 0ABNATI0N8. 35 CHAPTER IX.— CARNATIONS IN THE GARDEN. As a garden flower the Carnation may take rank with any, and it would be difficult to say too much in its praise. We owe a deep debt of gratitude to the great hybridist Mr. Martin B. Smith for the wonderful improvement he has effected in this noble flower. See the illustration of Ensign (Fig.40). He has literally transformed it, and his magni- ficent selfs are a delight to the Carnation lover. The Carna- tion is a grand plant for . the mixed border, and also for beds if a fresh stock is raised annually, but it is emphatically not a plant to be dealt with on the let-alone system, three or four year old clumps being unsightly rather than o t h e rwi se. There is nothing like raising a fresh stock from layers every year, and fortu- nately the sys- tem is easy, as Fig. 41 (page 34) will demon- strate. May is the month to plant oat Carnations, unless they have been in the open air all the year, in which case they may be put into the beds or borders in April. They should be given 1} feet space each way, and be furnished with a neat stake. The soil in most gardens may be made suitable for Carnations, but heavy additions of rich manure are not advisable, as they tend to encourage rust. I have found the following to be an excellent plan- Procure, if possible, some road scrapings, and to each barrowload add 1 peck of wood 36 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. ashes from a garden fire and 1 peck of mortar rubbish. Mix all these together, and incorporate them with the soil when the bed is dug. A List of Very Fine Border Carnations.— Carnations have been revolutionised of late years, and the favourites of many years ago are not much grown now. I append a list of the very best, most of them being varieties that have been given to the world by Mr. Martin Smith : Mrs. Eric Hambro, Mrs. Mnir, and Ensign, whites; Blondin and Cecilia, yellows ; Bendigo, purple ; Banner and Endymion, reds ; and Lady Hindlip, crim- son. Mrs. Nelmes, pink ; Kaby Castle, rose ; and the follow- ing other sorts are cheaper, yet possess considerable merit : Lady Wantage, white; Germania, yellow ; Purple Emperor, pur- ple ; Mrs. Reynolds Hole, terra cotta ; Mary Morris, pink ; Queen of Bedders, rose. A Remedy for Spot. — Carnations suffer greatly from a fungoid disease, which plays havoc with some sollec- tions. Bordeaux Mix- ture (see index) is effectual if applied in the early stages of the disease. Fig. 43. This showa a useful appliance for supporting prize blooms uf Dahlias while still on the plant. 1, Dahlia stake ; 2, lisrlit iron holder ; 3, hollow to lit on stake ; 4, clip tor Dahlia, lined with leather or some son material ; 5, bolt to tighten clip on stake. CHAPTER X.— DAHLIAS. The introduction of a large number of beautiful Cactus varieties has given new life to the Dahlia, and thousands now grow it where hundreds did a few years ago. The Show and Fancy Dahlias, so imposing on the exhi- bition table, were not suitable for cutting, and even the Singles had a weakness, inasmuch as they were very transient. The Cactus sorts are, however, as charming in the vase as on the plant. The Dahlia has its value as a garden flower, if only for the fact that it comes in late ; but it is much more than a stop-gap, and is well worthy of careful culture. It is not a plant that thrives on starvation diet, and the person who tries to grow it in 6 inches of poor soil will regret the mis- guided effort. The soil should be trenched and a liberal dressing of manure worked in. Moreover, it will be of advantage if copious supplies of water (varied once a week with liquid manure) can be given in dry weather. If fine flowers are desired, it is not advisable to rely on planting the old clumps of tubers just as they were lifted from the open ground in autumn. CHARMING DAFFODILS. 37 although these might give earlier bloom. Better far is it to raise a fresh stock of plants in spring by the method shown in Fig. 42 (page 35). They make better plants and give finer flowers, which come in at the right season if the plants are put out at the end of May. Earliness in Dahlias is not a merit. Earwigs are a source of trouble to the Dahlia grower. After trying many devices, I have come to the conclusion that there is nothing better than the time-honoured plan of inverting a small flower pot stuffed with hay on the top of the stake. Earwigs have been tempted into these false shelters ever since they first attacked Dahlias, but they have not learned wisdom yet, and earwig nature is earwig nature still. It does not take long to shake them into a can of boiling water, which kills them before the pot can be replaced on the stake. In Fig. 44 (page 38) is shown the most approved method of treating Dahlias in autumn and winter. Fig. 43 (page 36) shows a support. The following selections include some of the best varieties in the respective sections : — Nine Beautiful Show Dahlias. — Blush Gem, blush pink ; Claret Cup, claret shade ; Edward Mawley, deep crimson ; J. Walker, white ; Mrs. Gladstone, blush ; Jasper, ruby ; Mrs. Hobbs, white ; R. T. Rawlings, yellow ; Torn Jones, cream and mauve. Six Good Fancy Dahlias. — Buffalo Bill, buff, scarlet tips ; Gold Crest, yellow and red ; John Baxter, orange and red ; Emin Pasha, yellow and crimson; Mrs. Saunders, yellow and white; Rebecca, lilac and crimson. The Pick of the Cactus Dahlias. — A. D. Stoop, crimson scarlet; Amos Perry, velvety crimson; Effective, amber and rose; Flash, scarlet ; Harold Peerman, yellow ; Rev. Arthur Hall, ruby crimson ; Satisfaction, rose pink ; Snowdon, white ; William Marshall, orange and yellow. Six Pretty Single Dahlias- — Beauty's Eye, mauve and crim- son ; Darkness, dark crimson ; Fugi San, yellow and crimson ; Leslie Seale, silvery lilac ; Miss Morland, crimson scarlet ; Snowdrop, white. Eight Good Pompon Dahlias, — Adelaide, blush and lavender ; Darkest of All, nearly black ; Mars, scarlet ; Nerissa, silvery rose ; Tommy Keith, red and white ; Virginia, white ; Dewdrop, white and lavender ; Falcon, yellow and scarlet. CHAPTER XI.— DAFFODILS. Most popular of all bulbous flowers, and likewise the most improved, the Daffodil claims brief notice. Of all the hardy bulbs grown it is the most typically British, being suited by our soil, by our climate, and by our Anglo-Saxon tenacity in the task of raising new forms. It is almost too accommodating, for it will go on growing cheerfully and really do very well with scarcely any attention. It is, however, well worthy of special treatment, for then it develops its fullest beauty and charm. The bulbs should be lifted in August, after the foliage has well ripened off, and as soon as the soil has been dug over and manured should be planted again. I am afraid I am not quite so correct a* this, for owing to the ground tbey 38 PIOTOBIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. PROPAGATING GERANIUMS. 39 occupy being required tarly in May the plants are lifted and laid-in on a reserve plot to ripen. This task being quickly and carefully done, they do not resent it in the least. Deep digging and thorough pulverisation of the soil, with the addition of decayed cow manure, are prime factors in the cultivation of Daffodils. Some Beautiful Daffodils. — There are now numerous beau- tiful varieties of Narcissi in every section. The most imposing are those of the large Trumpet class, such as Duke of Bedford, Glory f Leyden, Madame de Graaff, and Madame Plemp. Older sorts, yet hand- some, are Empress, Emperor, Horsfieldii, Golden Spur, Maximus, and Henry Irving. Pallidus Praecox is valuable for its earliness. Of the PICTORIAL PRACTICE. — PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WOP.DS. Fig. 45.-PR0PAGATING ZONAL GERANIUMS. B, good cutting : c, lower leaves removed ; d, rough soil ; e, fine surface soil. E, cuttings inserted in boxes, just touching each other, for the winter. These will make good plants in spring. beautiful Leedsii varieties there are Duchess of Westminster and Minnie Hume. Of the Barrii race there are Barrii conspicuus, B. Golden Gem, and B. Maurice Vilmorin. Of the Incomparabilis section may be recom- mended Mary Anderson, Figaro, Stella, Cynosure, Prank Miles, and the magnificent Lulworth. Smaller gems are Johnstonii Queen of Spain, triandrus albus, Bulbocodium, and Cyclamineus major. Of the Poet's section, ornatus, poetarum, and the double should be included. CHAPTER XII.— GERANIUMS (ZONAL PELAR- GONIUMS). A determined attempt has been made by hardy flower lovers to drive the " Geranium " so called (the true Geranium is a hardy British plant) out of the garden. The effort has lasted many years, and the end of it is that 40 PICTORIAL PBAOTIOAL QARDENINQ. P~a o a «-g SELECT GERANIUMS. 4.1 more are grown than ever. It cannot be gainsaid that the Zonal Geranium is out of place in mixed borders of perennials, and even as a bedder it is questionable if it is not eclipsed in interest and charm, though not in brilliancy, by the Carnation. But it makes bold displays of colour in the garden, and its remarkable persistency of flowering is a strong point in its favour. The past three or four dry seasons have been unsuitable to the tuberous Begonia, and conse- quently the Zonal has taken a new lease of popularity. A bed of Begonias will beat a bed of Geraniums in a wet season, but not in a dry one. So accommodating are these plants as to soil, and so easy is the planting and general culture, that it would be sheer waste of space to go into lengthy instructions ; but hints on propagation and varieties can hardly fail to be helpful. In Fig. 45 is shown the best method of propagating in order to secure dwarf, sturdy plants ; and in Fig. 4I> (page 40) is represented a course of treatment for the winter. In this con- nection it may be well to point out that cuttings struck in summer give far better plants for putting out the following spring than old specimens kept through the winter. Select Zonal Ger- aniums for Bedding. — These may be sepa- rated into two classes: (1) varieties grown more particularly for their flowers ; (2) those valued for their handsome foliage. Three of the most useful in section (1) are Paul Crampel, red ; Master Christine, pink ; and Omphale, salmon. Of section (2) the following are remarkably handsome examples : Mrs. Pollock, crimson, purple, and gold ; Mr. H. Cox, crimson and yellow ; Crystal Palace Gem, green and gold ; Flower of Spring, green and white ; West Brighton Gem, green and yellow. The colours of these refer, of course, to the leaves, 47._Tea Rose Muriel Grahame (see page 40). sgLugg. fr& ' .••»*«•>»♦« 42 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. ■3 8 . =| o3 SfegS .?£» |a r rt S -,d a S « .o £ ^ £ SJ-J3 e fe-G S.^'O'tf 85*. -Si 2--S P . ° S B ■ S ® ! aap«a 4 ■81 CO PPOPAGATINO ROSBS. 43 CHAPTER XIII.— ROSES. So full of beauty and charm is the Bone, and so numerous are the points of interest connected with it, that to limit a reference to it to a few pages seems almost like sacrilege. Numerous books have been written about Rosea, and specialists will do well to make acquaintance with one or other of them. The few hints which follow may suffice for the amateur, at all events in his early days. I lament being nnable to describe any easy process by means of which Roses may be made to thrive in town gardens. I tried hard with them for several years with very poor success, although Rose grow- ing came as easy as sowing Parsley sub- sequently on good Kentish clay. Roses thrive in most coun- try districts, but better where the soil is heavy than where it is light. Both dwarfs and standards are best procured in the autumn, not because spring planting is bad, but because the best of the plants are often gone by then. Thorough pre- paration of the soil is desirable. The grower who has his heart in his plants will not be satisfied to tinker with 2 or 3 inches of topsoil ; he will bastard trench, and well beneath the top spit he will place a coating of manure. There is no gain in planting deeply. In the case of dwarf plants the point of junction between stock and bud, which can be seen at a, glance, affords a ready guide ; just cover this, and no more. In the case of standards a similar guide does not exist, but it is generally a safe rule to plant a little deeper than the earth mark on the stem. A coating (" mulch ") of manure may be spread around each tree after the planting is complete. As regards pruning, the best thing for the moment is to shorten long PICTORIAL PRACTICE.— PLAIN HINTS IN PEW WORDS. Tin. 49.-HOW TO STRIKE EOSE CUTTINGS. Portion of shoot of current season's growth taken with a heel, d ; e, e, e, e, portion from which leaves have been re- moved ; /, ground line. 4.4 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. M5§a |g -a "-Is* s-sl-s i J 0*1 I *M few S 2 S- S a ■£ „ ft-3 s »^ s - S g 5 - « 9 3 2 -° i a. *» £3 *j s •> •• §•0 o C TJ eg g ■§-■3- SS-2-2 WSJS Pit !*» .t 1111 SOME BEAUTIFUL ROSES. 45 shoots about a third, to prevent them from whipping in windy weather and loosening the root hold; but the main pruning should be deferred until March. When spring comes cut the shoots hard in, leaving only three or four eyes (buds). This means cutting the tree almost away, but it is wise all the same. A good idea of pruning may be gained by referring to Fig. 48 (page 42) and the remarks which accompany it. A Kose garden is not complete without a bed of Tea-scented sorts. They thrive admirably in my own garden in a posi- tion sheltered from the north and east by a hedge, and flowers are cut nine months out of the twelve. In more exposed positions they would need to be earthed up in autumn, and even to have Bracken twisted among the branches. Those who wish to pro- pagate their own Eoses may bud them readily in summer if they can secure some standard Briers from the hedges the autumn before. Fig. 50 (page 44) will make this interesting process clear. Many Roses do well struck from cuttings, these being termed "own-root" Roses, as distinguished from those established on Brier, Manetti, De la Grifferaie, or other stocks. See Fig. 49. A task of immense difficulty presents itself in the selection of the best varieties of Roses. There are scores, even hundreds, of good sorts, and a very good plan for the beginner is to leave the selection to the dealer. I may say, however, as a result of a glance over my own beds, that Every garden ought to include these Roses. — La France, Mrs. John Laing, Earl of Dufferin, Madame A. Chatenay, Captain Hay- ward, Hugh Dickson, Pharisaer, Gustave Grunerwakl, A. K. Williams, Alfred Colomb, Her Majesty, Frau Karl Druschki, Caroline Testout, Gustave Piganeau, Ulrich Brunner, and General McArthur, besides the Teas named in a separate selection. Some Tea Hoses that Bo Well in Beds, — Anna Ollivier, Catherine Mermet, Francesca Kruger, Lady Roberts, Innocente Pirola, Fig. 51. — Tea Rose Princess Beatrice. 48 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. Maman Cochet, Corallina, Marie Van Houtte, and K. A. Victoria. Muriel Grahame (Fig. 47) and Princess Beatrice (Fig. 51) are exquisite varieties, not so vigorous, but desirable on account of their lovely flowers, that cannot fail to delight the grower. A Selection of Very Sweet Roses. The following Roses are all very highly per- fumed : — Hybrid Per- petuals : Abel Grand, Beauty of Waltham, Chas. Lefebvre, Dr. An- dry, Duke of Edin- burgh, General Jacque- minot, La France, Louis van Houtte, Marie Bau- mann, and Madame Victor Verdier. Tea- scented : Adam, Alba Rosea, Catherine Mer- met, Cloth of Gold, Devoniensis, Madame Willermoz,and Souvenir d'un Ami. A few Roses that Do Well from Cuttings. — Hybrid Perpetual varieties: Abel Carriere, Baroness Rothschild, Chas. Lefe- bvre. Captain Christy, La France, Le Havre, Dupuy Jamain, Ches- hunt Hybrid. Tea- scented : Catherine Mermet, Devoniensis, Madame Lambard, Madame Falcot, Sou- venir d'un Ami, Gloire de Dijon. Climbing Rosen in the Open Air. — Inquiries are often made for Roses that will thrive on an eastern or northern aspect. The likeliest are Gloire de Dijon and its beautiful red sister Reine Marie Henriette. On southern anil western aspects Marechal Niel and William Allen Richardson may be tried. I have known Homere do splendidly on a west wall in the South of England. Cheshunt Hybrid is a useful wall Rose. Beautiful Striped Sweet Pea Aurora. BEAUTIFUL VIOLAS. 47 CHAPTER XIV.— SWEET PEAS. The extraordinary improvements made in Sweet Peas are on a par with those effected in the Daffodil. In the Sweet Fea we have what to all intents and purposes is a florist's flower, with a show of its own, and a system of classi- fication and a society looming in the distance. New systems of culture are being developed, and every year brings its quotum of new varieties. It is worth while to take a little trouble with so magnificent a prize as a fine series of rows or clumps of the best Sweet Peas in view, and 1 strongly recommend the winter preparation of the ground. If early blooms are wanted, a row may be sown in autumn, but results are uncertain, and those who have conveniences should sow in boxes or pots in February, and plant out in April. Five seeds may be placed in a 5-inch pot, using any ordinary potting compost. Spaces may be prepared by taking out the soil 1 foot deep, thoroughly turning over the subsoil, working into it some manure or superphosphate, and replacing the top spit, which should also be manured. Some Beautiful Varieties. — The following are beautiful Sweet Peas : Aurora Spencer, striped (see Fig. 52), Asta Ohn, lavender rose, Dorothy Eckford, white ; Etta Dyke, white ; Evelyn Hemus, cream with pink edge ; Clara Curtis, primrose ; Constance Oliver, pink and cream ; Edna Unwin, orange scarlet ; Elsie Herbert, white with pink edge ; Flora Norton Spencer, purple blue ; Gladys Unwin, pink ; Helen Lewis, orange and salmon ; Helen Pierce, blue and white ; Lord Nelson, the bluest Sweet Pea ; Masterpiece, lavender and rose ; Mrs. A. Ireland, rose and blush ; Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes, pink ; Mrs. Townsend, white and mauve ; Othello Spencer, maroon ; Paradise Ivory, ivory white. CHAPTER XV.— VIOLAS AND VIOLETS. The wonderful improvements made in Violas during recent years have raised them to the front rank among garden plants, and a few words must be devoted to them, if only to give a note on propagation and a selection of varieties. Fig. 53 (page 48) makes the propagation of these lovely little flowers perfectly clear, and I may add that there is no difficulty whatever in working up a good stock. Some Beautiful Violas. — The Viola is a marvellously improved plant not only in quality of bloom, but habit. Here are a few of the best : Countess of Hopetoun and Sylvia, whites ; Ardwell Gem and Melampus (new), yellows ; True Blue, Archie Grant (very large), and Blue Diamond (new), blues ; J. B. Riding, mauve ; Wm. Neil, lilac pink ; Duchess of Fife, primrose, blue edge, and Goldfinch, yellow, blue edge. Violets will never lose their popularity, more particularly as new varieties with larger and finer, though not less fragrant, flowers are being introduced. It is easy to grow Violets, and just as easy to fail with them. They abhor a dry, hot spot, and love a cool, moist one, albeit not heavily shaded all day long. Aridity means red spider, which quickly ruins the plants. Fig. 54 (page 49) gives prominence to the salient points in Violet culture, and those who observe them in conjunction with the hints here let fall will succeed tjpte. Forother references to garden flowers see the "Pictorial Calendar." 48 PICTORIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. Sfto « « • r HOW TO PROPAGATE VIOLETS. a _ S o S"S o * -a co g oS -as »g, a -u « &S e I b d ° a _ ® — I I 50 PICTORIAL PRAOTlOAL GARDENING. •s a 3 J3 a USEFUL GARDEN APPLIAN0E8. 51 no. i lEC fig. 3 Fig. 0,— A Home-made Barrow for conveying plants In pots. Length over all 6 feet 9 Inches ; width of frame at wheel 1 foot 6 niches ; width between handles 1 foot 10 Inches. The box (Pig. 1) Is supported by two cross-pieces (Fig. 2), one raised a Inches above the wheel by two blocks from the frame and the other resting above the legs. The box la 9 feet 8 Inches by 8 feet 9 inches ; sides 6 Inches deep. The box may be made with lattice bottom (Fig. 8). The supports for the wheel are band Iron i Inch by 8 Inches bent as In Fig. 1. 52 PICTORIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. y !<•< ^v Fig. D 1. — In arranging flowers in bowls or vases, strips of lead about $ inch wide, '.similar to the above, are very userul, as they can be bent into various shapes They will hold the flowers quite securely. Fig. D2. — This is one way of bending the lead. Fig. D 8. —These are other ways. Fig. D 4.— This la another. USEFUL GARDEN APPLIANOES. 53 "3, is if 3.9 a" 8 5 s 54 PIOTOBIAL PRACTICAL GARBENINQ. M4HI ■Sep* i" *§.«•*! I , O «l rtaiflw USEFUL GARDEN APPLIANCES. 55 I £ S I «• t. -g j. g > o 56 PICTORIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. 1111 i TENANTS' BIGHT GREENHOUSES. 57 SECTION n. PLEASANT HOURS IN GREENHOUSE. THE CHAPTER XVI.— NOTES ABOUT HEATINQ, To enjoy a greenhouse it is not necessary to have a large one, nor is it essential that expensive plants be grown. It is, however, necessary to exercise a certain amount of re- straint, and to avoid cramming it with all sorts of plants. Visitors to a large nursery invariably remark on the fine quality of the plants, and think what a splendid thing it is to have well-trained men. Skill is good, of course, but the principal reason why the plants are so healthy is that they are grown in houses to them- selves. If the visitor protests that he saw a house of beautiful plants all mixed together, I reply that it is just a show house, the occupants of which have been developed else- where. Now one thing is perfectly cer- tain — the average amateur, whether he employs gardeners or not, cannot afford a separate house for each class of plant he grows, and I do not wish to carry my point so far as to declare that this is absolutely necessary. What I wish to emphasise is the error of packing in every, kind of plant that can be laid hold of. It is better to grow a few kinds than many, and if good varieties of the different genera are-chosen there will be no lack of beauty and interest. Fig. So.— A Heating System for a Small House. 1, central path; 2, area covered by stage ; 3, 3, 4-inch pipes ; 4, 4, 4, evaporating troughs ; 5, boiler ; 6, junction of boiler and pipes ; 7, ex- pansion box ; 8, junction of pipe and box ; 9, doorway ; 10, walls (page 58). I do not propose to enter into the question of the construction of glass- houses, because I am emphatically of opinion that it is bad economy. Buy the greenhouse in sections, and screw it together yourself by all means, but do not be tempted into undertaking the whole thing. Those horti- 58 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. cultural builders who make a specialty of tenants' right houses can sell one cheaper than it can be built at home. These remarks are not made in their interest, but in that of the amateur. It is well to remember that the local surveyor must be informed of the proposal to build a greenhouse, and the position must be explained to him. His approval secured, all is plain sailing, for it is only necessary to stand the house on loose bricks, and it becomes a tenant's fixture, on which the landlord has no claim. If attached to a dwelling-house it should be by means of screws, not nails. With respect to heating, it may be well to offer a few hints. Broadly speaking, heating is best done by means of hot-water pipes, even where oil or gas stoves are used, and not by radiating heat from the surface of such stoves. . Cubic Capacity of Glass Structures. — In calculating the amount of piping necessary, first ascertain the cubic capacity of the house to be heated. Do this by multiplying the length by the width, and the product by the height. For the height of a lean-to take the mean between the eave and the ridge. Amount of Piping for Houses of Different Sizes.— To calculate the amount of piping required proceed upon the following basis : That 1 foot of 4-inch piping will heat 22 cubic feet of air to a temperature of 45° with the external temperature at freezing point. To secure the same temperature with the outdoor thermometer showing 14° of frost allow 1 foot per 11 cubic feet of air. Size of Boilers Required.— The best form of boiler for use in small houses is the upright, suitable for letting into the wood- or brick- work. For larger structures a boiler which presents a considerable sur- face area to the action of the fire should be chosen. To find the size of boiler, utilise the following as a basis for calculation : A boiler with 3| square feet of surface exposed will heat 200 feet of 4-inch piping; with 5i feet, 300 ; with 7 feet, 400 ; with 8 J feet, 500. Faint for Hot-water Pipes.— Mix lampblack with linseed oil to the consistency of paint, and apply with a brush. With a small greenhouse the boiler may be let into the front of the house, whether brick or. woodwork, and fed from the outside, an ash pit being provided below. A proper length of smoke pipe is usually sent with the boiler. Fig. 55 shows a ground plan of the house, with pipes going down one side and one end, terminating in a small feed cistern, technically called an expansion box. If considerable heat is required the pipes may be carried down the other side as well, the expansion box (which should be mounted on bricks) being on the other side of the door to the boiler. There should be a slight rise in the pipes from the boiler to the box, 1 inch to every 6 feet sufficing. The pipes are made watertight at the sockets in various ways, but there is nothing handier and cleaner than the rubber ring system. Kings are sent with the pipes, and after being rolled over the plain end of one piece of pipe are pressed into the socket end of the next and driven home. There are numerous boilers, and perhaps there is not much to pick between them. As to fuel, they will burn almost anything, but it must be small. If large the fuel will cake and the fire go out. The best plan is to rail the cinders from the house fires with small stuff from the coal RAISING OEOIOE FLOWERS. 59 cellar, and when the fire is left for the night to bank it np and leave a little ail on. Gas and oil are both considered to be more expensive than fire boilers, and neither should be nsed without pipes, as the fumes are injurious. They have one advantage - they are more reliable in maintaining a steady heat, although naturally the degree is less. The quantity of oil for burning a given number of hours is easily ascertained by observation. FLOWERS FROM CHAPTER XVII.— GREENHOUSE SEED. A greenhouse may be furnished at the cost of many pounds, or at the cost of a few shillings. I once, for experiment's sake, ran a greenhouse with plants from seeds alone — quite successfully, too. These are the plants I employed : (1) Asters, (2) Balsams, (3) Begonias, (4) Brachycoines (Swan River Daisies), (5) Browallias, (6) Cal- ceolarias, (7) Ciner- arias, (8) Cyclamens, (9) Mignonette, (10) Nemesias, (11) Nico- tiana affinis, (12) c F IP 2Z20Z>ZP%p jm ■IP Bll E D r HH ^ZZ&z&gZ ^ggjg|ggggjgggSg5gg «*S**~J WSM s§§§ llllfll llil^llll leBIlil A A A A Fig. 56.— Preparing a Box for Raising Seedlings.— A, A, A, A, drainage holes ; B , B , B, B , crock over ditto ; C, crocks ; D, rough soil or E, moss ; F, fine soil ; G, space. Petunias, (13) Primulas, (14) Rhodanthes (Everlastings), (15) Schizanthnses (Butterfly Flowers), (16) Stocks, (17) Tropseolum Lobbianum, and (18) Zinnias. Of these Nos. 3, 6, 7, 8, and 13 are somewhat expensive, running to half a crown a packet in the ordinary way ; the rest are cheap. Nos. 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 may be flowered from seed in three to five months, are inexpensive, and at the same time are very bright and cheerful. I append a few cultural remarks on the flowers named. Raising Choice Flowers. — There need be no more doubt about raising Begonias, Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Cyclamens, Primulas, and other choice plants successfully from seed than Cabbages, but a little more care is needed owing to the smallness of the seed. Proceed as follows : (1) Get a flat box, or a pan, or some flower pots; (2) Get some potting mould, and crumble or sift it down very fine. (3) Place the soil in the receptacle (the finest, which should be in a sand-like state, at the top) and moisten it with wa rm water; (4) Carefully open the packet and shake the seed into the dr y palm of one hand ; (5) rub it very gently and evenly off with one finger taking care to spread it as thinly aa possible over the surface of the soil (6) The merest film of sand or dust-like soil will suffice to cover Begonias and Calceolarias, which are excessively small seeded ; in fact, it would be as well not to attempt to cover them. (7) Have ready some clean, damp moss, and spread it in light flakes over the seed. (8) Examine 60 PICTORIAL PBAOTIOAL GARDENING. in a day or two, and if the soil looks dry water through the moss, or dip the receptacle nearly to the rim in a tub of water. (9) As soon as the seedlings appear remove the moss and place a square of glass over the top, shaded with brown paper; (10) in three or four days use white paper instead of brown. (11) Tilt the glass daily to admit air. (12) When the seedlings are \ inch high carefully prick them off 2 inches apart in another box, shading for a day or two, but admitting air. (13) When they grow close enough to touch each other transfer singly to small pots. Repotting Young Plants.— When asked in my hearing wnat was the right stage to repot plants, a practical horticulturist replied, with profound weightiness, " When they need it." This admirable advice may be supplemented by saying that when the roots of a young growing plant show freely at the drainage hole of the pot they may have a shift. The stages may be 3 to 4 \ inches, 4J to 6 inches, 6 to 8 inches. Remember, however, not to repot before the proper stage arrives. The Best Soils for Pot Plants. — Many cultivators have pet mixtures for their floral favourites, sometimes very elaborate preparations. For instance, I once knew a rosarian who did not consider he had a perfect mixture unless he had about thirty different sorts of soil and manure. Withal, his Roses won few prizes. A few comparatively simple mixtures such as are here given will suit most plants. mixture No. 1, which consists of 3 parts of fibrous loam, 1 part of well-crumbled manure, and 1 of leaf mould, with about -fa part of sand, will suit Chrysanthemums, Begonias, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, Primulas, pot Gera- niums, Cinerarias, Marguerites, Petunias, Indiarubber Plants, Carnations, Hyacinths, Tulips, and bulbs generally, in fact most pot plants. Mixture No. 2, which consists of fibrous loam and decayed manure in equal parts, with about T ^ part of clean sharp sand, will suit Roses. SEixture No. 3, which consists of 2 parts peat, 1 part loam, and a sprinkling of sand, will suit Azaleas, Heaths, and hard-wooded plants generally, likewise Ferns and Palms. Rules for Watering Plants.— Before a person can learn to water a plant properly, he "or she must learn how to pot it. A badly potted plant can never be watered well, because the usual indications are mis- leading. The principal thing is to make the soil firm without being absolutely hard. When this condition is secured good watering is easy, as by rapping the pot with the knuckles it can be ascertained whether water is or is not wanted. A hollow, ringing sound indicates drought ; a dull, heavy sound, moisture. Always go by this, never by time. A plant may want water two or three times on one particular day, and none at all the next. Leave a space of about 1 inch between the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot, so that when water is needed a good supply can be given. Draining Flower Pots. — Arrangement rather than quantity of material constitutes good drainage. If a large piece of broken pot be placed hollow side downwards over the drainage hole, then a layer of smaller ones evenly overlapping, finishing with £ inch of clean moss, perfect drainage will be ensured. Bones should never be used, though charcoal may be. Fig. 56 shows the principle of draining. How to Make Plants Compact and Bushy.— Sturdy, compact plants with many shoots give more flowers than long, drawn plants with EOW TO START BEGONIAS. 61 one or two straggling growths. To have the former Instead of the latter give them abundance of air, make the soil firm in potting, and keep them close to the glass. Further, in the case of many, such as Petunias, Fuchsias, and Geraniums, the tips may be pinched out when the young plants are 4 inches high, the resulting shoots being topped again when they have pushed 3 or 4 inches. Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and Primulas will not -need thus stopping. Flower Pots. — Troubles with flower pots are numerous, apart from their mysterious peculiarity of breaking themselves, familiar to every employer of labour. Yet a stock of different sizes is a necessity. Sizes of Flower Pots. — Pots are sold in casts, the number per cast being applied as a descriptive term to the pots. " Forty-eights," for instance, are pots of 48 to the cast, and the retail price for small quantities will be about f d. each. The most popular sizes are given in the following table : — Description. Top diameter in inches. Depth in inches. Thumbs . . Sixties Forty-eights Thirty-twos Twenty-fours Sixteens Twelves ^ 2i 3 to 4 H 4i to 5 5 6 6 H 8 9i 9 Hi 10 New pots should be soaked for a few hours before being used. PICTORIAL PRACTICE. — PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. Fig. 57.-STARTINO BEGONIA TUBERS. An excellent plan of starting Begonias is to place the tubers in moist Gocoanut fibre refuse in April, and when they start growth to pot as above, a, drainage ; o, moss ; c, soil ; d, soil level. If kept sturdy they will belike the left hand plant. If started badly they will be like the right hand one— weak stems being followed by poor flowers. 62 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. Asters. — The Dwarf Bouquet (mixed colours) is the best strain for pots. The plants may be planted out and lifted when flower heads show, if desired. Balsams. — The Camellia -flowered is a very good section. Seed can be had in mixed or separate colours. Tuberous Begonias. — Seed must be sown in winter to flower the plants the same year, and great care must be exercised in sowing, the seed being very small. A sowing may be made in summer to flower the following year. Fig. 57 shows the treatment of Be- gonia tubers in spring. Tubers may be bought at prices ranging from two- pence to seven and sixpence each, ac- cording to variety. T he splendid sort shown in Fig. 58 is new, and therefore costly, but there are beautiful sorts in the following lists. Some Beauti- ful Tuberous Begonias. — New varieties of Begoiiias keep cropping up every year, but the following varieties are so good that they will not be crowded out easily. I will first of all name six beautiful doubles : Beauty of Belgrove, pale pink ; Harry Laing, scarlet ; Lady Emily Dyke, yellow; Lafayette, crimson; Mrs. Lewis Castle, salmon ; and Octavie, white. Six fine singles : Campania., rose ; Countess Brownlow, yellow; Duchess of Westminster, salmon; Miss Masters, blush ; Prince of Orange, scarlet ; and The Lady, white. Calceolarias are amenable to the treatment just advised for raising choice flowers. They like a cool position in the summer, such as a frame or box under a north wall, doing far better there than in a sunny green- house. Sow in spring. Cinerarias are brilliantly beautiful in spring, and are easily grown from seed. The principal drawback is their liability to green fly. They GREENHOUSE FLOWERS. 63 should be fumigated or sprinkled with quassia water (see index) at frequent intervals so as to prevent the pest making headway. Sow in spring and early summer, and treat like Calceolarias. Cyclamens. — Beautiful flowers are these, but rather slow in develop- ing. The amateur who is raising them from seed must exercise patience. They are not at all difficult to manage. Sow in spring and autumn. Mignonette. — There are now several fine varieties well suited to pot culture, but it is doubtful if any surpass the old Miles's Spiral and Machet. It is well to sow a few seeds in a 5- or 6-inch pot and thin to half a dozen, in- stead of attempt- ing to transplant them, for they do not like it. Nemesias are almost new. They flower densely, and are very cheerful in the greenhouse. Petunias. — The singles are rather too rampant to be perfect pot plants ; but the double fimbriated sorts are more com- pact, and their flowers are very handsome. Primulas are grand winter and spring flowers, very easy to manage, not particularly subject to insect attacks, and altogether as Photo: r« Fig. sell <{■ Co., Ltd. 59.— Chrysanthemum Rayonnante (page 65). beautiful, much as they are but growing rapidly and exceedingly lasting. accommodating as they are Scliizanthuses would be grown ten times as for their name. They are most beautiful flowers, smothering themselves with flowers, which are Retusus is one of the best sorts. Sow in spring, and again in August. Zinnias are not excelled for brilliancy by any flower, and, while very gay in the garden, neat plants are very suitable for greenhouse adornment. They like a little bottom heat at starting time, and should have a position near the glass, or they will run up very tall. — &®~- 61 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. CHAPTER XVIII.— SELECTIONS OF POPULAR FLOWERS FOR THE GREENHOUSE. There are certain popular greenhouse and conservatory flowers of which it may be useful to select a few varieties, a note on culture being added where it seems to be called for. Winter-flowering Begonias. — Five of the very best Begonias of the fibrous - rooted, winter-flowering sec- tion are Carrierei, white ; Gloire de Lor- raine, pink, and its white variety Cale- donia ; Gloire de Sceaux, valuable for its handsome dark foliage ; and Welton- iensis, rose. I regard the last as one of the most valuable flower- ing plants we have, either for a green- house or a window. Gloire de Lorraine is also exceedingly beau • tiful. These Begonias like a temperature of 55° to 65°. They are propagated by cuttings, Gloire de Lorraine also by leaves. Select Tree or Winter - flower ing Carnations. — yix beautiful varie- ties of this lovely section are Flora Hill, white ; Miss Joliffe Improved, pink ; Sbahzada, crimson ; Uriah Pike, dark crimson ; Winter Scarlet, scarlet; and W. Robinson, scarlet. If struck from cuttings in spring, they bloom in winter. Malmaison versus Marguerite Carnations. — Without be- littling the Malmaison Carnation, which is a most beautiful flower, I would give preference, if an amateur, to the Marguerite race, which are much better doers, and can be raised easily from seed. If one or two Malmaisons are wanted Princess May and Princess of Wales might be chosen. Some Choice Chrysanthemums.— To start selecting Chrys- anthemums is an embarrassment, because the number of varieties is enormous, and every year there is a large influx of novelties. Those of the Yiviand Morel race, such as the variety of that name, Chas. Davis, and ■ Cas.icll it- Co., Ltd.. Fig. 60 — Chrysanthemn Emily Towers. SELECT CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 65 Lady Hanham, are the best for growers with little convenience, as they are dwarf in habit. Most Chrysanthemum specialists will have modern sorts, dwarf or tall, and I therefore give the names of a select number. Japanese.— John Pockett, crimson ; Sir H. Kitchener, buff ; Madame Carnot, white ; Mrs. W, Mease, primrose ; Julia Scaramanga, buff ; Mrs. H. Weeks, white; Lady Hanham, dark rose; Anstralie, maroon; Mutual Friend, white ; G.J.Warren, pale yellow ; N.C.S. Jubilee, cream; Monsieur Che-non de Leche, rosy buff ; Rayonnante, blush pink (Fig. 59) ; Emily Towers, silvery lilac (Fig. 60); Fair Maid, pink ; Marie Calvat, rose ; J. R. Upton, yellow; Mrs. Coombes, silvery pink; Miss Nellie Pockett, white ; Mrs. Barkley, rosy mauve ; Henry Weeks, crim- son ; "Miss Edith Pil- kington, golden yel- low; J. E. Clayton, yellow ; Miss Flor- ence Molyneux, white; and R. Hooper Pearson, yellow (Fig. 61). Needless to say, there are scores of others. Incurved. — Chas. Curtis, yellow; Mrs. R. C. Kingston, lilac pink ; Globe d'Or, yellow ; John Fulford, crimson ; and Bonnie Dundee, bronze. Other popu- lar varieties are the Queen family (Queen of England, Golden Queen, Empress of India, etc.), Violet Tomlin, Enron Hirsch, Jeanne d'Arc, and Monsieur Darrier. Decorative. — Those who go in for large-flowered Chrysanthemums exclusively make a great mistake, as some of the most attractive sorts are those with comparatively small flowers. The following are charming for cutting and for decorative plants: William Holmes, brown Japanese, an October bloomer ; Mdlle. Lacroix, white Japanese ; Emily Silsbury, white Japanese; R} T ecroft Glory, yellow, early; Dr. Sharpe, crimson, reflexed ; Jane, white, single; and Elise Dordan, rose, pompon. I will now show by means of a series of figures the principal points in Chrysanthemum culture. Propagation. — Fig. 62 (page 66) shows the best cuttings to select Fig. 61.— Chrysanthemum rt. Hooper Pearson. 66 PIOTOBIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. CJ.O Si 2 O S ?.>"', \e-3S'. STOPPING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 67 Fig. 63.— How to Make Chrysanthe- mums Bushy. Thebarshows and how to insert them. These may be taken from November onwards to the fol- lowing summer. Never use thin, weedy growths. By striking cuttings in May, June, and July useful little plants can be secured. Making Free-flowering Bushes. — It is quite an easy matter to turn the tall Chrysanthemum into a compact bush well furnished with flowers of a very nice size for cutting, although useless for show. The points of young plants should be pinched ont in spring when about 8 inches high, as shown in Fig. 63. IE stopped again after tlie resulting shoots have made 4 or 5 inches of growth they will form bushes like Fig. 64. Repotting Plants for Large Blooms. — Plants which are to yield show flowers must not, of course, be stopped as above advised. They will need to be trans- ferred from their first pots (say 3-inch) point of removing tip when to 4|- or 5-inch, from these to 7-mch, and the plant is 6 inches high. from these again to 9- or 10-inch, in which they flower. Fig. 65 (page 68) shows how Chrysanthemums should be repotted, and the instructions accompanying the engraving make everything quite clear. It is usual to arrange Chrysanthemums in lines along the garden paths for the summer, tying them to a support in order to prevent breakage. The Bud Mys- tery.-The bud system on prize Chrysanthe- mums is a forbidding mystery to beginners, but there is really no- thing formidable about it. The following buds are spoken of: (1) Break bud, (2) crown bud, (3) second crown bud, (4) terminal bud. This is the explanation of them : — In May or early June unstopped Chrysanthemums usually form several shoots at the tip. This is termed the breaking stage, and as a flower bud usually shows i" Fig . 64 ._This shows Uie plant after being sfrptrd sympathy it is natur- as in Fig. 63. It may now extend at will. twice, first 68 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. TAKING CHRYSANTHEMUM BUDS. 69 PICTORIAL PRACTICE.— PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDfl. Fig. 66.-TAKING CROWN BUDS OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. o t crown bud ; 6, &, &, growth shoots clustering round it which must be removed at the bars,' c, c, o; d, growth removed which started below. 70 PICTORIAL FBAOTIOAL GARDENING. ally called the break bud. It is of no use, and may be removed at once The branches or " breaks " grow on, and towards the end of July or early in August show flower buds surrounded by incipient shoots. These are the first crown buds. If the shoots round this bud are removed, the bud is " taken," to use the technical term (rather an absurd one, by the way, since the bud is not taken, but left); if the bud is removed and the surrounding shoots left, they will grow on and in about three weeks show another bud — the second crown. If this bud is also removed and the shoots grown on again till autumn, they end their growth in a cluster of bads called terminals Tuning Buds. — The first or second crown is the bud to give a prize ' bloom. In some cases one is the better, in some the other. The sorts vary enormously, and so do the seasons. Generally speaking, if the first crown shows before the second week in August, it is too soon and should be removed, the second crown being relied on. Beginners must make a stndy of "timing," for it is an art in itself. Fig. 66 will show how crown buds should be taken, and Fig. 67 (page 71) shows the terminal. A Selection of Fuchsias. — The following varieties are not all par- ticularly novel, but they are good, reliable sorts : Dark corollas : Try Me Ch ! and Enoch Arden. Light corollas : Beauty of Trowbridge, Guiding Star, Loveliness, and Rose of Castile. Doubles : Champion of the World, purple ; and Lucy Finnis, tube red, corolla white. Other beautiful Fuchsias are Countess of Aberdeen, white ; Wave of Life, England's Glory, Sedan, Swanley Gem, Flocon de Neige, Berliner Kind, and Molesworth, the last two being doubles. Select Zonal Geraniums for Pots.— It is a very difficult task to select a small number of Zonals for pot culture, inasmuch as there are scores of varieties which have claims to notice. The following, however, are all very fine indeed : Doubles : Beaute Poitevine, salmon ; Hermione, white ; Louis Farges, scarlet ; Baspail Improved, crimson ; and Eosa Bon- heur, pink. Singles : Amy Amphlett, white ; Chaucer, cerise ; Duchess of Portland, rosy pink ; Gertrude Pearson, pink ; Hall Caine, cherry ; Inver- ness, salmon ; Parker's Favourite, scarlet ; R. Dean, purple ; and Wedding Ring, orange. Show Pelargoniums. — In spring, when forced bulbs, Azaleas, and other plants are past their best, the handsome show Pelargoniums give a fine effect in the greenhouse. The following are good varieties : Achieve- ment, orange red ; Fire King, scarlet ; Lord Roberts, deep rose ; May Queen, salmon rose ; The Bride, white ; and Triomphe de St. Mande, carmine. A Dozen of the Best Roses for Pots. — The following Roses are well adapted for pot culture, being healthy, yet not over vigorous, growers, and free bloomers : Six Hybrid Perpetuals : Baroness Rothschild, Captain Hayward, Madame Montet, Madame Gabrielle Luizet, Mrs. John Laing, and TJlrich Brunner. Six Teas and Hybrid Teas : Anna Ollivier, Bridesmaid, Catherine Mermet, La France, Mrs. W. J. Grant, and Niphetos. Fig. 68 (page 72) gives hints on the pruning of pot Roses. Spring Bulbs. — These are so valuable for brightening up green- houses, conservatories, and windows in spring that they cannot be ignored. Potted in October or November, plunged in Cocoannt fibre refuse for a few weeks, removed and placed under glass when the top growth is 1 inch long, TAKING BUDS OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 71 PICTORIAL PRACTICE. — PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. Fig. 67.-TERMINAL BUBS OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. If from any reason crown bads are not taken the plants finish their growth as above, i.e. with no growths round the topmost bud. - If a fine bloum is wanted bud a only may be left, and all the others removed at 6. If a nice display of flowers for cutting i& wanted remove only buds marked «, k. 72 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. £3S45 »s «»£-5 a5 s *!«§•§ «* ■■So S;-So»s;« cT«£ -t*. ■- - fc. s-aji SrCi a = ^ 60 grooved strip front of Creeping Jenny -these are only a few SETtdS S^* combinations out of many. ployed. SELECT APPLES, 79 SECTION III. FRUIT. The cultivation of good fruit is a vital necessity of the times. The development of steam shipping, with its concomitants high speed and low freights, has resulted in the pouring of enormous quantities of foreign produce duty free into British ports, and the shortcomings of home Photo: Cassell dS Co., T.tti. Fig. 77. — Apple Lord Grosvenor, a very fine early Codlin. orchards have become painfully apparent, as a result of the competition which has ensued. The following are golden rules in connection with fruit : To choose good varieties in preference to rubbish, to cultivate the trees well instead of badly, to remember that they are grown to support mankind and not a horde of insects. CHAPTER XX.— SELECTIONS OF FRUIT. In choosing varieties of fruit regard should be had to special purposes and the nature of soils. More sorts may be grown for private than for market use. Those who are growing for profit should observe the varieties which do well in the district where their operations are to be carried on. To the information which may he thus acquired should be added a study of the following tables. The kinds of fruit are dealt with alphabetically, and the lists arranged in order of ripening. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. Apples. Leading Marftet Sorts — Cookers. — LordGrosvenor(Fig Lord Suffield. Potts's Seedling. Domino. Eeklinville Seedlint 77) Manks's Codlin. Stirling Castle. Gascoyne's Seedling. Warner's King. New Hawthornden. Braraley's Seedling (Fig. Leading Market Sorts — Dessert. — Colonel Vaughan. Yellow Ingestrie. Worcester Pearmain. Cox's Orange Pippin. Beauty of Kent. Wellington. Lane's Prince Albert (Fig. 78). 79). King of the Pippins. Blenheim. Photo: CcmeU&Co., Lt.i Fig. 78.— Apple Lane's Prince Albert, one of the best late cooking sorts. Newer Varieties' ivortliy of Trial. — Cookers : Dessert : Bismarck. Beauty of Bath. Newton Wonder. Chelmsford Wonder. Note. — It is bad economy to plant largely of an untried variety. It is better to put on a few grafts or put in a few trees, and watch results. Varieties forming Neat Bushes for Small Garrleas.- Cox's Orange Pippin (D). Lane's Prince Albert (C). Lord Grosvenor (C). Manks's Codlin (C). Potts's Seedling (C). Stirling Castle (C). Worcester Pearmain(D) Bismarck (C). Varieties for Heavy Soil — Cookers. — Lord Grosvenor. Domino. Duchess of Oldenburg. Eeklinville. Beauty of Kent. Tyler's Kernel. Varieties for Heavy Soil — Dessert. — Worcester Pearmain. King of the Pippins Note. — Apples are not so well suited as Plums to heavy and stiff clay land. Bramley's Seedling (Fig. Mere de Menage. [79). Newton Wonder. Stunner. THE BEST CHERRIES, CURRANTS, AND FIGS. 81 Varieties that may he Used for Cooking or Dessert. Blenheim. Duchess of Oldenburg. Dutch Mignonne. Cox's Pomona. Tyler's Kernel. A Succession of Dessert Varieties. — Mr. Gladstone. . American Mother. Irish Peach. Cox's Orange. Worcester Pearmain. Blenheim. Chelmsford Wonder. King of the Pippins. Apricots. Moor Park (for flavour). Blenheim (for vigour). Large Early Powell's Late Braddiok's Nonpareil. Rosemary Kusset. Stunner. (general usefulness). Phnto: Cassrtl it' Co., ltd. Fig. 79.— Apple Bramley's Seedling a grand late sort for standards Blackberries. Parsley-leaved. Wilson Junior. Cherries. Varieties for Market Culture. — Kent Bigarreau (Amber Heart) Turkey Heart. Early Rivers. Varieties for Dessert Use. — Early Rivers. Kent Bigarreau. Elton. Black Eagle. May Duke. Black Tartarian. Kentish. Bigarreau Napoleon. Morello. Principal Market Sorts Boskoop Gian Black Naples, Governor Wood. Currants. Boskoop Giant, ) b]a()k i i Red Dutch, \ ^, Raby Castle,/ 82 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. A Sel lotion for Gardens. — Boskoop Giant, 1 ,, ' Raby Castle, 1 , Lee's Prolific, j black - Versailles, ) re' ellcm ' Gros Maroc. Black Alicante. Foster's Seedling. MELONS, PEACHES, AND PEARS. 83 A Selection for Succession and Flavour. — Black Hamburgh. Madresfield Court. Muscat of Alexandria. Black Alicante. For Outdoor Culture. — Miller's Burgundy. Frontignan. Melons. A Selection of Useful Sorts. — Hero of Lockinge. Countess. * Blenheim Orange. * Choose where one is wanted and not much heat can be given. Nuts. Kent Cob. Cosford. Lambert's Filbert Peaches and Nectarines. A Succession of Peaches. — *fWaterloo. Royal George. Hale's Early. Noblesse. *fBarly Grosse Mignonne. *Bellegarde. *Stii'ling Castle. Barrington A Succession of Nectarines. — ♦Advance. Goldoni. *|Lord Napier. Dryden. *Stanwick Elruge. *tHiimboldt. * May be chosen if six varieties suffice, f May be chosen where only three are wanted. :> -fSea Eagle. *Walburton Admirable. Gladstone. Newton. *tPine Apple. *Victoria. Fig. 81. — rear Clapp's Favourite 84 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. Fears. Leading Marliet Sorts. — Beacon Williams's Bon Chrgtien.Doyenne du Cornice. Conference. Pitmastou Duchess. Durondeau. A Selection for Garden Bushes or Walls. — Jargonelle. Marechal de la Cour. *Emile d'Heyst. •Souvenir du Congres. Louise Bonne of Jersey.*Glou Morcean (wall). Beurrfi d'Amanlis. *Pitmaston Duchess. Josephine de Malines *Bearrfi Hardy. Clapp's Favourite (Fig. (wall). Princess. 81). Bergamotte Esperen Marguerite Marrillat. Marie Louise (wall). (wall). *Doyenn6 du Cornice. * Choose where six only are required. Varieties for Cooking. — Catillac. Uvedale's St. Germains. A Selection for Clay Land. — Williams's. Fondante d'Automne. Pitmaston Duchess. Beurre d'Amanlis. Clapp's Favourite. Princess. Beurre Hardy. Jersey Gratioli. Beurre Clairgeau. Plums. Leading Market Sorts. — Early Rivers. Gisborne's. Victoria. The Czar. Monarch. Useful Garden Sorts. — Early Rivers. Cox's Emperor. Monarch. Victoria. Pond's Seedling. The Czar. A Selection for Dessert. — Belgian Purple. Green Gage. 'Jefferson's. Denniston's Superb. *Early Transparent Gage.*Coe's Golden Drop. * Choose where three suffice. A Selection of -Damsons. — Farleigh Prolific. Bradley's King. Raspberries. Leading Market and Garden, Sorts. — ♦Carter's Prolific. 'Superlative. Norwich Wonder. Baumforth's Seedling. * Choose where two only are wanted. For Preserving. — Semper Fidelis. Strawberries. Leading Market Sorts. — Vicomtesse H. de Thury (Garibaldi). Royal Sovereign. Sir Joseph Paxton. Select Garden Varieties. — Vicomtesse H. de Thury. *Dr. Hogg. Countess. President. British Queen. "Latest of AIL Fillbasket (Fig. 82). *Royal Sovereign. Waterloo. * May be chosen if three are required. For Preserving. — Elton Pine. Royal Sovereign. PLANTING OBCHARDS. 85 CHAPTER XXI.— PLANTING FRUIT. The following principles may be laid down, and, although full cultural particulars do not come within the scope of the book, the hints may be found useful. Flails. — In submitting plans for establishing fruit a special warning is given against close, hard cropping of young orchards. The grower should aim at striking the happy medium between waste and greed. By very wide planting loss may be sustained, but it just as commonly occurs from too close planting, although that fact is not recognised. From among many examples I have seen I give the following : (1) An orchard of young Apples thoroughly planted in well-fed soil interplanted with Black Currants. The Apples cankered furiously, owing to the Currants being planted up to within 2 feet of the stems and robbing them of nutriment. (2) A piece of young Cur rants and Gooseber- ries intercropped with greens. The greens were planted up to 2 feet from the bushes, which were stunted and starved. Permanent Orchards. — I am not greatly in favour of the complete chessboard style of planting, i.e. laying out the ground in set squares, begin- ning with standards 30 feet apart, and ranging through half-standards at 15 feet to bushes at 7\ feet and soft fruits at 3| feet, ending with Strawberries at If foot. Observation teaches me that so much mixing of types and varieties is rarely profit- able. The principles which I believe to be the best are the association of one type of large with one of soft fruit, the latter paying expenses, with something over, until the standards, if employed, come in. The modern fruit garden is becoming more and more one of bushes (see Fig. 83, page 86, forms of trees). Here, again, it is easily possible to have too many types. Simplicity of arrangement, combined with a judicious selection of approved market sorts and good culture, generally gives the best return. Some examples of the foregoing principles are given. A Combined Large and Small Fruit Orchard.— Plant standard Apples at 30 to 3(i feet apart (the latter for very strong growers such as Blenheim and Bramley's), and between them Gooseberries, Currants, or Raspberries at 4 feet. Or plant standard Plums at 24 feet, with soft fruits at 4 feet. The exact combinations should depend upon the soil. See page 88 for a few. 82.— Strawberry Fillbasket. 86 PIOTOBIAL PRACTICAL QABDEMNQ. S«jeS 3 a 9— 5 Si. oi-B Z~e u an £ « a 33 5" "■3 a aog= £ E « 3 <• *" a -- -.- „- -.- „- .- -- -- - p Ssf n h si* PLAN OF FRUIT GARDEN. 87 O * * 0*0*0*0 0*0*0*0 Fig. 84.— PUn of iruit garden. O, Apples;* Currants or Gooseberries; .Strawberries, / 88 PIOTOBIAL PBAOTIOAL QABBENINQ. A. For Heavy Clay Land. IBramley'a Seedling Apple. I Victoria or Monarch Plum. Baldwin's Black Currant. { Norwich Wonder Raspberry. B. Mr Moderately Stroj Land. . Q , Q _ K . j Wellington Apple. ) AddIo } Crown Bob Gooseberry. | wh^'s industry Gooseberry. ( Rivers' Prolific Plum. \ Carter's Prolific Raspberry. C. For Light Land. ( Lord Suffield Apple. ( Raby Castle Red Currant. In the case of mellow, loamy soils of medium texture most varieties succeed. (See "Selections.") Profitable Combinations of Bush Fruits.— Apples on the Paradise stock may be profitably associated with soft bush fruits and even Strawberries, but if the last are planted let it be simply to take a couple of crops while the bushes are coming on. For permanent culture it is best to keep Strawberries to themselves, as the necessary cultural operations can be carried out better. The diagram (Fig. 81, page 87) shows a good arrangement. Number of Plants per Acre. — In order to ascertain the number of plants required per acre all that is necessary is (1) to multiply together the distances which the plants are to stand apart in feet, (2) to find the number of square feet in an acre, namely 43,560, and (3) to divide the latter product by the former. To make this clear several examples are given applicable to the leading fruits, and they may suffice for most growers. 5Tx IT: :: :: "$l } ***«*- \» l\ ^ { gEEU. * » * * • i ' lii l Raspberries. 8 „ x 8 680 ) Bush Apples. 9 „ x 9 „ 537 f „ Pears. 12 „ x 12 801 I Half-standard Apples. 15 „ x 15 „ 193 J „ „ Plums. !«:;x!o:;:: :: :: Ul^ss?.*" 1 -"* 88 ) 86 „ x 36 ' plums - Note. — In forming young plantations of Raspberries it is common to plant canes in ' clumps of four or six 4 feet apart each way, cutting back half the number. Where this plan is practised the quotient above given, namely 2,722, must, of course, be multiplied by 4 or 6, as the case may be, to get the exact number of canes. In planting Strawberries it is profitable to plant only 1 foot or 15 inches ipart in the rows, and after the first crop has been taken to chop out every other plant. Thus, taking the quotient above at 2 by 3 feet, viz. 7,260, it will be seen that at 1 by 3 the total would be just double — 14,520. For methods of propagating Strawberries see Fig. 85 (page 89). Choice of Site. — Those who propose growing for market should be careful and deliberate in establishing themselves. An acre of land at 10s. is not cheap if £10 has to be spent in draining it. Undrained clay land can be made productive, but the cost is heavy. Again, valley land at the PROPAGATING STRAWBERRIES. sit ■5 8 ■aw i a** s-a A i s s ! « % lP do 3 a i*4 3 ffg- ■<5l !?S §1.81 J" 90 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. sea level, though fertile, leads to heavy losses of blossom from frost. It may be suitable for a nursery, where the sale of trees is the object, bat not for a market plot, where it is the fruit that is wanted. Ohoose, there- fore, if possible, a site on the lower slope of a hill, where the benefit of alluvial deposits is secured without the damp frosts of the bottom lands. If near the sea, shelter from strong winds is desirable. I do not attach so much weight as some do to a warm southern aspect ; it is better for vegetables than for fruit, as it has a tendency to bring the blossom out dangerously early. -. Preparing the Soil. — Land for a fruit garden should always be deeply dug; indeed, bastard trenching — i.e. the removal of the top spit, the breaking up of the one beneath, and the replacing of the top layer — pays. In orchard planting on grass, or amongst Hops, a wide opening should be made, sufficient to accommodate the roots when fully spread out. Country farmyard manure is the best food agent at starting, although artificials come in well afterwards. Seven good loads per quarter acre form an adequate dressing. In buying, stipulate for heaped loads, in fact as much as will go in a two-wheeled cart. The price ranges from 2s. 6d. to 5s. per load. It is not well to dig the manure deep down in the holes below the trees, as that tempts the roots down ; but to put most of it above the roots, a few inches from the surface. Patting in the Trees. — This may be done from November to March inclusive. Market growers usually find it convenient to do the work in December and January, when current work for the hands is not pressing. Shorten broken or decayed roots, preserve the fibres and spread them out, working the soil well amongst them. Do not tolerate small holes and twisted roots. As to depth, plant so that the earth-mark on the stem is buried an inch or two, then when the soil has settled the depth will be about right. Staking or Supporting Trees. — Standard trees should have support, ana that support ought- to be something more than a mound of soil — the common plan. Mounding trees is not wise, and it is better to go to a little expense and fix stakes. The best plan to pursue is to insert a pair, one on each side of the tree and reaching to just below the branches. They should be about 1 foot apart, i.e. each 6 inches from the tree. The connection at the top may be a piece of wire, kept from chafing the tree by a wad, or even a " withy," i.e. a hazel shoot twisted to facilitate peeling, the tip coiled to form a loop, and the whole used as a binder, passing it from one stake to the other, and circling the stem of the tree. CHAPTER XXII.— GRAFTING AND OTHER METHODS OF PROPAGATION. The great majority of fruit trees are propagated by inserting either buds or grafts on selected stocks. This applies to Apples, Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Pears, and Plums. Gooseberries are usually propagated by cuttings, Raspberries by root suckers, and Strawberries by runners. In propagating young nursery stock budding is usually practised, in establish- ing a fresh variety on an old stock grafting is resorted to ; and, as nursery- men know quite well how to do their own work, I will devote most of my space to grafting. GROWN GRAFTING. 91 "•a'S'gs; ,a>:s ll III i& 6 o <• "O'H o • -r:s|a^iajip|l|!i Mpjaagll ■<■ a ^o|f sags a a 92 PIOTOBIAL PRAOTIOAL GARDENING. HOW TO GRAFT. 93 Grafting. — The time for this operation is the spring, just when the buds on the trees to be grafted show signs of swelling. The following rules should be observed : (1) to out off the shoots from which the scions or graftf are to be made before they start growing, keeping them in a cool cellar or shed Until wanted ; (2) in preparing the scions, to cut them into lengths of i to 6 inches, each carrying three or four buds, and from i to £ inch thick ; (3) in heading back the trees, not to shorten to the trunk, or even to the main branches, but to cut back to wood ranging from 1 inch to 3 inches in diameter (see Figs. 86 and 87) ; (4) to pare every cut surface smooth with a sharp knife ; (5) after inserting grafts by one of the methods herewith described, to cover with clay or wax (see below) ; (6) if hot wax is used, to rub a thin film of clay on the cut surfaces before applying it. This serves the double purpose of keeping the shoot moist and preventing blistering. Grafting Large Trees. — The work may be done by one of several methods. The most general are crown, cleft, and notch grafting. (1) In crown grafting the lower part of the scion is pared down, the bark of the stock drawn slightly away from the wood, and the scion pressed in (Fig. 86, page 91). (2) In cleft grafting the stumps to be grafted are split across, the crack is held open by a chisel, a wedge-shaped notch about ] inch long cut in the side (both sides if the stump is more than 1J inches across)! the graft cut to fit the notch, then by slightly depressing the chisel the graft can be pressed in (Fig. 87, page 92). Note : In crown grafting the shoots must be tied in ; in cleft grafting tying is not essential, because when the chisel is withdrawn from the cut across the head of the stock the two sections close up and pinch the graft in. (3) In notch grafting a wedge-shaped notch is cut in the side of the stock, and the scions are cut to fit. This appears simple, but in practice I have found cleft grafting better. Grafting Young Trees. — The commonest plans adopted where the stumps to be grafted are less than 1 incn in diameter are the simple splice and the whip or tongue. (1) In simple splicelgrafting one downward cut on the 'graft and one upward one on the stock are made. If of the same length ^and breadth, the surfaces will make an exact fit, but they must be securely tied. (2) In whip or tongue grafting a self-supporting principle is introduced. A downward cut is made on the scion, and then a second one in the opposite direction, beginning two-thirds the length of the first cut. An upward cut is made on the stock, and then a downward one. In each case the second cut forms a tongue. By now fitting the tongue of the scion within the tqngue of the stock a union is formed. Note : The first cut may be 1 incrfto 1^ inches long, the second about J inch. If the scion is narrower than the stock, be careful that there is a line of union with stock and scion on one side. (3) Having practised veneer grafting with success, I mention the plan. A mere slice of bark is taken from both scion and stock. A notch is cut in the latter, and the former is pared down at the tip to fit it. It should be noted that, although this system gives an excellent union, owing to the great amount of cambium in contact, careful tying is needed. Covering Grafts. — In the case of large and small trees alike the grafts must be covered to exclude air. Formerly this was effected by means of a thick coating of clay, but waxing is almost universal now. (1) Though messy, the claying system answers if carefully done. I have 94 n i PIOTOBIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. till .S ° 3 i-S- SS-g SB-og ■fl-8 ***!! III IMstfJi "ls'if-S'5-33'8 ja T3»rt o ca o - s J . s »- a « ? a? a ,■•3 3 fl "5*2 g J Buz °B 3 *3 H "" " S"£ «S * * O ■Nf BUDDING FRUIT TREES. 95 resorted to it in odd cases, and find that the great point is to have the mass thoroughly plastic ; this is best becured by kneading clay, loam, and cow manure together to the consistency of a stodgy paste. Let it be 2 or 8 inches thick on the graft, tapering above and below. (2) Even where wax is used a thin paint-like coat of paste is good, preventing scalding. Where much grafting is being done it is best to have the wax prepared in an iron pot, which can be slung on a tripod over a brick fireplace, built on the ground ; the wax is then kept free. Put it on with an ordinary paint brush. The following are three good Grafting Recipes. 2 lb. brown Swedish pitch, J lb. glue, £ lb. unsalted lard, J lb. resin. J lb. best beeswax. First put in the lard, then spread on the pitch, broken into Walnut-sized pieces. Afterwards put in the other ingredients, first crushing the glue. Boil steadily for an hour, frequently stirring ; use hot. 8 parts common resin, 3 parts tallow, 3 „ red ochre, 1 part Burgundy pitch. Mix as before, melt ; and use warm. 1 part yellow wax, \ part Burgundy pitch, 1 „ turpentine. J „ mutton suet. Mix well as before ; use cool. Budding. — As a rule, the art of budding is learned in connection with Koses. The principle and practice are the same with fruit trees, but the question of stocks is a much wider one. Where a Rose is pro- pagated at home, by budding the stock used is almost always the hedgerow Brier, although 1 in nurseries others are employed. In budding fruits many stocks have to be requisitioned. It is for this reason that small growers are advised to buy their trees ready established. Fruit Stocks. — For dwarf trees of Apples, suitable for planting a few feet apart, the Paradise stock is the best; for similar trees of Pears the Quince is the best. For tall standard trees the respective stocks should be the Crab and the Pear, but free stocks (i.e. those raised from pips) are extensively employed. In the case of Plums there is no corresponding dwarfing stock. Those most used are Black Damask, Brussels, Mussel, Brompton, and common Plum. These stocks are also used for Apricots and Peaches. For dwarf Cherries the Mahaleb is the most popular stock ; for standards or seedlings free stocks are chosen. The fitting of the individual varieties to the most suitable stocks is a life study, and details would fill a volume. Pears, for instance, are often double worked, that is, two varieties established on one stock. Time for Budding. — The operation ought to be done in summer, when the sap is running freely. Method of Budding. — (1) Prepare the buds by inserting a sharp knife 1 inch above a leaf in a. young shoot, passing the blade along the shoot, and bringing it out 1 inch on the other side of the leaf. Carefully pick out the pith without injuring the green growing germ at the base. Keep the bud moist. (2) Prepare the stock- by making a cut from 1 to 2 inches long on the main stem with a short cross-cut at the top. For dwarf trees make the cut close to the ground ; for standards a few inches above it. Ka.se the bark at the edges of the cut with the flat handle of PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. o 5s "I ■g 9 <= co O PROPAQATINQ SMALL FRUITS. 97 the budding knife. (3) Having carefully pressed the bud in, tie with strips of rush grass or soft, strong worsted, folding it evenly from end to end so as to cover the bud. (4) Should there be much rain in August, take notice if the stocks are thickening ; if they are, remove the ties, and replace them somewhat relaxed. (5) Do not remove the heads of the stocks until the following spring ; then shorten them, leaving stumps 2 or 3 inches long. The latter, which are left to serve for tying the young growths to, may be removed in autumn. Cuttings. — Gooseberries and Currants are easily raised from cuttings inserted firmly 2 inches apart in September, and transplanted the fol- lowing autumn. Gooseberries. — Select pieces of young wood from -jj to -J inch thick and 1 foot or more long. Remove all the buds from the base upwards, except about four at the top. Insert the cuttings firmly, to the depth of 4 to 6 inches. Remove one-third the length of each shoot when trans- planting. See Fig. 88 (page 94). Gooseberries may be increased in size by " suckling " them ; see Fig. 89 (page 96). Red Currants. — Practically the above remarks apply, but the cuttings do very well if about 8 inches long. As the bush is a vigorous and upright grower, unlike many sorts of Gooseberries, it is not so neces- sary to have a good length of clear stem between the ground and the lower branches; nevertheless, a "leg" of 4 inches or so is desirable. White Currants the same. See Fig. 88. Slack Currants. — Pieces of young wood 8 or 9 inches long make good cuttings. As this kind bears on young wood the buds need not be removed from the lower part. See Fig. 88. Suckers. — Raspberries are easily and inexpensively propagated by lifting a stool, drawing away the younger canes with fibrous roots attached, and planting them. Late autumn is a good time to do this. It pays to shorten back the young canes after planting to within 9 inches of the ground. If a fruiting stool is wanted at once, plant four canes in a clump, head back two, and leave the others unshortened. The latter will fruit the first year, and successional canes will spring from the base of the others for fruiting subsequently. Runners. — Strawberries throw out runners containing little plantlets which can- be made into fresh stock in several ways : (1) By putting small pots filled with soil round the plants, placing the runner on the surface and weighting it down with a stone ; (2) it saves trouble in watering to plunge the pots to the rims in the soil — if possible, put a little soot at the bottom of each to keep the worms out ; (3) by using turves cut into squares of 3 or 4 inches instead of pots ; (4) by allowing the runners to root in the soil, and lifting them to plant in autumn or spring. The last is the simplest plan, but it takes two years to make good fruiting plants. To fruit within a year one of the other plans must be resorted to. See page 89. Seeds. — Many fruits may be raised from seed, but amateurs and market cultivators will not find it profitable, however much it may be so in the hands of skilled hybridisers. PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENINQ. Fig. 00.— An Apple tree two years old which is to be made into a handsome and symmet- rical pyramid : b, side branches with spurs 0, /, and g, all of which are to be left untouched for bearing ; c, growth made the first year of planting ; d, growth made the second year of planting (the bars indicate where the shoots should be pruned), see page i00. PRUNING APPLEB. 99 CHAPTER XXIII.— PRUNING FRUIT. In accordance with the design of this work only main principles can be dealt with, but an intelligent recognition of them would obviate difficulty and loss. (1) Too little is made of pruning when trees are young, and too much when they are old. Careful observation in some of the most extensive orchards in Britain convinces me that most growers do the work at the wrong end. Under-pruning when fruit trees are in their early stages and over-pruning in their later ones are the rule. (2) A young tree carefully shaped for the first year or two after planting needs little attention afterwards. (3) Labour devoted to the hard pruning of established trees is frequently wasted, whereas if devoted to lifting and replanting the trees so as to check exuberant root action it would give good results. Shaping Young Trees. — Floods of argument are wasted on the question of when to shape a young tree — whether at the time of planting, the following season, or not at all. Now, any upholder of any particular system as applicable to all sorts of trees must of necessity be wrong, in- asmuch as the varieties differ enormously. The proof of this lies in the fact that when rival authorities hammer at one another each can point to numerous examples supporting his opinions. The moral is that the planter should strike a mean between them, and, above all, carefully note the particulars quoted by disputants, so as to learn as much about the peculiarities of varieties as possible. Broadly speaking, the planter should proceed on the following lines : (1) Trees of spare habit, i.e. young stand- ards with branches short and bunched, should have the shoots restricted to five or six in number. These should be headed hard back to one-third their length, cutting near a hud pointing outward. The time for this is just before growth starts in the same season as they were planted, (2) Strong growers with a tendency to throw vigorous, wide-spreading branches must be dealt with rather more leniently. From a third to half of each branch may be removed soon after planting, cutting as close to a bud as is safe in order to have the resulting shoots going upward instead of outward. Figs. 90 and 91 (pages 98, 100) show how to shape young trees. Summer Pruning. — I have seen and experienced enough of the benefits of summer pruning to become a warm advocate of it. If done too early it is not beneficial, because dormant buds break and crowd the tree ; but if practised about the second week in August, any resulting shoots do not usually become strong enough to do harm in that way. It is a safe rule to count six leaves from the base, and then remove or break over the upper part of the shoot. At the winter pruning cut back the stumps to two eyes. These rules apply to Pears, Plums, Cherries, Bed Currants, and Gooseberries, and in' a modified degree to Apples and Apri- cots ; but not to Morello Cherries, Black Currants, and Peaches. Apples.— When grown as cordons on walls these must be summer pruned and spurred like the Pears, but in the open very close pruning is bad. Shape the trees as above advised, and keep the heads open. Where there is room for a young shoot let it grow, as it is quite likely to form fruit buds along the greater part of its length in its second year. More- over, some sorts bear towards the tips Learn the habits of varieties, and beware of hard pruning. 100 PICTORIAL PRAOTIOAL GARDENING. I! Mn/*& 2fc5b TSS mX ; /, well-pliced .hoot, left nn P runed ; ,, spurs, to be m- mtcffid. Dotted line* indicate probable new ihoots. HOW TO PRUNE. 101 Apricots. — Broadly speaking, these are spur bearers, and may there- fore be summer pruned; bat they usually show a number of shoots intermediate in character, perhaps 6 inches long and containing leaves. Leave them alone ; they often form fruit buds. Cherries. — The majority of market Cherries are spur bearers, that is, they form clusters of buds close to the main branches. Except in the case of large trees, where it is impracticable, summer pruning is good. Morellos are young wood bearers, and should not be spurred, but simply have the old fruiting wood thinned out. Red and White Currants. — Spur bearers. Restrict the prin- cipal branches to six or eight, and never let breastwood smother them Summer prune ; it pays. See Fig. 92 (page 102). Black Currants. — Young wood bearers. They should not be summer pruned or spurred, but treated like Morellos. The principal mis- take is timidity in thinning oat old wood. Gooseberries. — A modified spurring system is the best. Freely summer prune where the wood is exuberant, but avoid depriving the bush of all its young wood. When a bush is kept open the young wood assumes a fruiting character. Prune in spring, not in autumn. The thicker the bushes are in winter the less serious are the ravages of the birds. 1 ' Grapes. — Have the canes about 3 feet apart, and have the laterals on the rods about 9 inches apart on each side. Allow enough foliage to well cover the glass and no more. Usually it is well to stop the laterals about two joints beyond the bunch. Early in October shorten the laterals to half their length, and in December prune back to the basal eye near the rod. See Fig. 93 (page 104) for hints on stopping. Nuts. — The Kentish system is to shape when young, 'cutting the bushes so that the branches spread outwards and upwards in the shape of a cup. It is easy to keep them in condition afterwards. The young wood must not be cat out, or even close back ; but it may be shortened, leaving the stumps about 6 inches long. Peaches and Nectarines. — Young wood fruiters, like Morello Cherries and Black Currants. See Fig. 94, page 105, for disbudding. Fears. — Spur bearers, answering well to summer pruning. If this is not practised cut back the shoots to one or two buds in winter. A mass of young wood means barrenness. Plums and Damsons.— See Fears. Raspberries. — Cut out the old canes each year after fruiting. How soon after is a matter of dispute. Some authorities declare that the work of the old cane is done directly it has ripened its fruit ; others that it nourishes the basal buds. Undoubtedly the best plan is to shorten the canes to within 1 foot of the ground when the fruit is cleared, and cut them out in winter. The plan of pruning the fruiting canes of tall growers at various heights in spring is good ; and where stools of six or more canes are grown two or three may be tipped, two or three more moderately pruned, and the rest cut back. Or the canes may be arched over to break the lower buds. Strawberries. — Where young plantations are being established it is best to pick off the runners, unless more propagation has to be dona. 102 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. GATHERING AND STORING FRUIT. 103 (Sever let a plantation get smothered with runners. If not wanted for litock or for sale cut them out. Time for Pruning. — The winter pruning of fruit trees may be done in December, January, or February. It is largely » question of available labour, but there canno* be a better time than just before the buds show the first signs of growth. Soot Pruning. — This is an excellent plan where trees are making too much wood, and an immense amount of labour is caused by deferring it too long. It is easy to lift and reset a young tree ; but it is very difficult to deal with one fifteen years old or more, which has sent numbers of roots as thick as a man's wrist on a far-away roving commission. In cases such as the latter bare the roots, put the saw through half of them, and do the rest the following year, on each occasion applying some fresh soil and a surface coating of manure to draw fibres up. CHAPTER XXIV.— GATHERING AND STORING FRUIT. There is an intimate connection between the gathering and storing of fruit. To keep Apples and Pears the longest possible time calls for judgment in the gathering. The principles are (1) to remove at the ripening stage — i.e. when the fruit parts from the tree without force being used — and (2) to store in places that are neither very dry nor very damp, neither very warm nor very cold. But a few details may be usef ully given. Gathering Apples. — The before-mentioned rule of gathering when the fruit parts readily from the tree is safe, but it may sometimes be anticipated in summer when there is an open market for green Apples like Lord Suffield and Lord Grosvenor, which may have swollen to a saleable size soon after the ending of the Gooseberry season. With care these may be gathered without injury to spurs. On no account tear the latter away. Fruit that is to be kept must be handled carefully to avoid bruising. It should be put, not thrown, into the baskets. Gathering Fears. — There is no difficulty with the early sorts, which should be picked just in advance of dead ripeness. Nor is there any trouble with the autumn varieties. But judgment is needed with the winter Pears, which are quite hard in September. The best thing is to leave them hanging till the fall of the leaf unless severe frost should threaten ; then to gather, using firmness combined with care. If these sorts are gathered early they often shrivel up in the store. Fruit Rooms. — Those who have large quantities of winter fruit will find it most economical in the end to erect a fruit room. The dimensions must, of course, depend upon the requirements, but the principles governing construction are as follow : (1) Secure protection from frost and a moderate degree of humidity by commencing 2 feet below the ground level. (2) Ensure equability of temperature by providing double walls. These may be of matchboarding, with a space of 8 to 12 inches between the two walls. (3) Thatch the roof 1 foot thick with reeds, straw, or Bracken. (4) Provide shutters to fit the window openings, grooved and corded, so that they can be readily drawn away. (5) iirect tiers of slatted staging round the walls. 104 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. PICTORIAL PRACTICK.-PI.AIK HINT* IN FEW WORM a f^u ^ .. , x , Fig - 93 -STOPPINO VINE SHOOTS. DISBUDDING PEACHES. 105 |°- £ to «1 - «i « I £" ■*" ho ^•3 ti •£ -5 ** m" Sj«S >-s.« 3g3-3j£| ■asS g a - S 60, .•a . -tJ M fl « a a, > a -S *a ."SrtfjSfiSj 106 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. Storing the Fruit. — Sound fruit will keep perfectly well if spread thinly on the shelves. Very choice examples should be in single layers. It is not necessary to use either paper or straw, and, in view of the risk of tainting', the less of any extraneous substance the better. The " sweating" of the fruit is perfectly natural, but it often leads to the accumulation of an undue amount of atmospheric moisture, and therefore air should be admitted to the room on clear, bright, mild days in autumn and winter. Cheap Storage, — It is frequently desirable to make use of existing conveniences in the storage of fruit. For example, it is necessary to utilise a shed as a store. In preparing such a place have it thoroughly cleared, and rigorously exclude any refuse. Erect open staging of planed deal, the tiers 9 inches to 1 foot from each other. Thatch the roof. Do not store Onions or vegetable roots of any kind in the shed, but keep it for the fruit alone. Any decaying or unclean matter is liable to cause contamination. Apples in Barrels. — Sound, selected, late sorts, devoid of bruises and specks, will keep for a long period if headed up in barrels and covered with soil ; but the fruit will not keep — indeed, the whole bulk may be contaminated — if a few of the Apples are unsound. „,% For fruit pests, see Insect section. For further cultural notes, see the " Pictorial Calendar." SELECT VEGETABLES. 107 SECTION IV. VEGETABLES. CHAPTER XXV.— SELECTIONS OF VARIETIES. An all-round supply of fresh, wholesome vegetables is not difficult to secure where ground is abundant and conveniences are numerous, but it requires consideration where space and means are limited. I propose to give useful hints on choosing sorts, sowing, eradicating insects, and other matters in tabular form, thus compressing the largest amount of information into the smallest space. A Selection of Varieties. Kind. Standard Sorts for General Special Large or Exhibition Use. Sorts, in most cases dearer. Artichokes Jerusalem s White Jerusalem. Asparagus Beans, Broad Connover's Colossal Argenteuil. Early Longpod, BroadWindsor Carters' Leviathan Longpod, Buttons' Green Giant, Bun- yard's Exhibition. Beans, dwarf French .. Canadian Wonder, "Negro Ne Plus Ultra, Suttons' Forcing. Beans, climbing French — - Tender and True. Beans, Runners Scarlet, White Dutch Suttons' Al, Best of All, Neal's Ne Plus Ultra. Dell's Crimson, Cheltenham Pragnell's, Cannells' Best of Green-top All, Suttons' Blood-red, Carters' Perfection, Webbs* Satisfaction. Broccoli ... Veitchs Self-protecting, Leam- Suttons' Vanguard, Cannells' ington, Purple Sprouting, Latest of All. Late Queen Brussels Sprouts Aigburth, Imported Suttons' Exhibition, Veitchs' Paragon. Daniels' Defiance, Webbs' Em- Ellam's Early, Improved Non- pareil, Enfield Market peror, Suttons' Tender and True, Carters' Hearbwell. Early Horn, James's Inter- Suttons' Early Gem, Model, mediate, Red Surrey New Intermediate, Carters' Elephant, Market Favourite, Daniels' Perfection. Cauliflowers Early London, Autumn Giant Daniels' King, Suttons' Mag- num Bonuni: Sandringham, Major Clarke's Standard Bearer, Wright's Giant White, Carters' Solid Ivory. Plain or Curled. — Cucumbers Improved Telegraph t Matchless, Lockie's Perfection. Broad Batavian, Moss Curled. — Kale or Borecole Asparagus, Cottager's, Dwarf Green Curled Arctic. 108 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. fijg£j&?? §&&*,.-«¥ S£ffS£ti BELEOf VEGETABLES. 109 Kind. Standard Sorts for General Use. Special Large or Exhibition Sorts, in most cases dearer. Leeks Lettuces, Cos .. Lettuces, Cabbage Mustard .. 'Onions, spring . . Onions, autumn Parsley Parsnips Peas, early Peas, mid-season Peas, late •Potatoes, early Potatoes, second early and main crop Potatoes, disease re- sisters Radishes Rhubarb Savoys Spinach Tomatoes, outdoor Tomatoes, indoor Turnips Vegetable Marrows . . Musselburgh Paris White, Black-seeded Bath All the Tear Round, Contin- uity White. James's, White Spanish, Bed- fordshire Champion Giant Rocca Myatt's. Eollow Crown, Maltese W m. Hurst (d warf)i Wil- liam I. Duke of Albany, Telephone Autocrat, Veitchs' Perfection, Ne Plus Ultra, Sharpens Queen - Myatt's Ashleaf (w.k.), Ring- leader (w.k.), Puritan (w.k.) Beauty of Hebron (c.k.), Snowdrop (w.k.), School- master (w.r.), Reading Russet (c.r.) Magnum Bonum (w.k.), Bruce (w.k.), Main Crop (w.k.), Imperator (w.r.) Turnip, French Breakfast. Hawkes' Champagne, Early Albert Early Ulm, Drumhead. Round, Prickly, New Zealand. Earliest of All, Laxton' s Open-air Perfection, Chemin Rouge (market), Ham Green Early Milan, Snowball, Orange Jelly Long White, Custard Lyon, Buttons' Prize taker, Carters' Holborn Model, Dobbie's International. Ma'nmoth. Golden Gem. Ailsa Craig, Cranston's Excel- sior, Improved Wroxton, Cocoa Nut, Muttons' Al, Challenge. Lemon Rocca. Student. Chelsea Gem, English Wonder, Daisy. Duchess, Suttons' Peerless, Daniels' Alderman. Carters' Michaelmas, Captain Cuttle. Sharpe's Victor (w.k.), Carters' First Crop (w.k.). White Beauty (w.k.), Crawley Frizetaker (w.k.), Windsor Castle (w.r.), Lord Tennyson (c.r.), Pink Perfection (c.r.), Vicar of Laleham(c.r.), Read- ing Ruby (c.k.), Satisfaction iw.k.), Carters' Snowball, )aniels* Special, Up-to-date. Victoria. Early Ruby, Comet, Dukeof York, Challenger, Frog- more Prolific. Dobbie's Model, CanneU's Model, Carters' Jersey Lily. Pen-y-Byd. * w.k. indicates white kidney ; w.r., white round; c.k., coloured kidney; c.r„ coloured round. CHAPTER XXVI.— SOWING AND CROPPING TABLES. Methods of Sowing. The following vegetables are usually sown broadcast : Oabbage and Winter Greens, Cress, Endive, Lettuce, Mustard, Radish, Turnip. 110 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. WEIGHT OF VEGETABLE OROPS. Ill The following are usually sown in drills for trans- planting : The following are sown or planted where they are to mature : Artichoke (Globe), Asparagus, Cabbage family (some, times), Cauliflower, Celery (in boxes), Cucumber (in pots), Greens, Leek, Onion (choice), Tomato (in pots or boxes), Vegetable Marrow (in pots). Note. — Personally, I "prefer the row system for all Greens. Beans of all sorts, Beet, Carrot, Onion (or transplanted), Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Potatoes, Salsafy and Scorzonera, Shallots, Spinach. Germination of Seeds. Usual Time Average Usual Time Average Kind. of Germinat- Longevity, Kind. of Germinat- Longevity, ing, in days. in years. ing, in days. in years. Beans .. 7-9 3 Lettuce 6-8 5 Beet 8-10 6 Onion 8-10 2 Cabbage family 7-9 5 Pea .. 7-8 8 Carrots.. 12-15 4 Parsnip 12-18 2 Cauliflowers .. 7-9 6 Radish 5-6 6 Celery .. 10-15 8 Tomato 8-10 4 Cucumbers . . 8-10 10 Turnip 6-7 6 Endive.. 8-10 10 Note. — It is important to remember that the weather and the condition of the soil greatly affect germination. Also that it is not always safe to rely on old seed, although, theoretically, it is good several years. Average Time in Maturing and Weight of Crops. Kind. Time to Allow in Sow- ing or Planting for the Crop to be Beady. Approximate Quantity per square rod. Artichokes, Jerusalem.. Asparagus, seed Asparagus, 3 year old crowns Beans, Broad Beans, French Beans, Runner Beet, Turnip Beet, long Broccoli Brussels Sprouts .. .. Cabbages Carrots Cauliflowers .. .. # .. Celery Cress ., Cucumbers, indoor , , Cucumbers, outdoor .. Endive Eale or Borecole Leeks Lettuces Mustard Onions Parsley .. .. Parsnips .. ., u .. Peas (in pod) — _ _ 24 weeks S years First season . . 13 to 14 weeks 11 to 12 weeks 12 weeks 12 to 14 weeks 18 to 20 weeks 5 to 9. months 6 to 8 months 15 to 18 weeks 18 to 24 weeks 15 to 18 weeks 6 to 6 months . . 2 to 3 weeks . . 6 weeks 15 to 18 weeks 10 to 12 weeks 7 to 9 months 6 to 8 months 10 weeks 2 to 3 weeks . . 16 to 18 weeks 12 weeks 18 to 20 weeks 14 to 15 weeks 8 bushels. i bushel. | bushel. 1 bushel. | bushel. 6 bushels. 5 bushels. 68 heads. 56 heads. 150 to 270 hearts. 8 to 4 bushels. 56 heads. 68 sticks. About 500 fruits About 500 fruits 363 hearts. 56 sticks. 109 stems. 545 hearts. 2 to 3 bushels. 4 bushels. 1 bushel. 112 PIOTORIAL PRAOTICAL GARDENING. Kind Time to Allow in Sow- ing or Planting for the Crop to be Beady. Approximate Quantity per square rod. Salsafy and Scorzonera 14 to 15 weeks 18 to 20 weeks 5 to 6 weeks 8 years 1 year . . 6 months months 8 years 1 year .. 15 to IG weeks 10 to 14 weeks 16 to 18 weeks 8 to 9 weeks 15 to 18 weeks ,. .. .. 2£ bushels, 8 bushels. 120 to 150 sticks. 1$ bushel. 150 to 270 hearts. 56 forcing crowns. 2J to 8 bushels. ljcwt. 5 bushels. , 150 to 200 fruits. Note.— The quantities are based on the distances apart given in the following table. Time and Depth of Sowing and Distance of Planting. Kind. Artichokes, Jerusalem . . Artichokes, Globe Asparagus , Beans, Broad .. Beans, dwarf French Beans, Runner Beet .. Broccoli , Brussels Sprouts Cabbages Carrots Cauliflowers Celery Cress Cucumbers Endive Kale or Borecole Leeks Lettuces , Mustard Onions Parsley Parsnips .. M Peas . . „, Potatoes, early . . , Potatoes, late Radishes Rhubarb, crowns . . Salsafy and Scorzonera . Savoys Shallots Spinach Tomatoes Turnips Vegetable Marrows Month to Sow or Plant. March, April .. March March, April February, March, April April, May May, June April, May March, April, May . . March March, July .. March April March March to August March March, April March March March to July. . March to August March, August March March .. _ March to May.. March March February to May March March March March March, August February, March February, March, Sept. February, March Depth, in inches. 6 2 1J 3 2 3 2 Just cover. 2 1 i Just cover, 1 i 1 2 4 6 1 4 1 i Half depth of bulb 1 i 1 1 Final Distance Apart, in inches. 12 by 36. 48 by 48. 15 by 12. 6 by 24. 6 by 24. 12 by 60. 9 by 12. 24 by 24. 24 by 30. 12 or 15 by 12 or 18. 9 by 15. 24 by 80. 9 by 48. 24 by 24. 9 by 12. 24 by 30. 12 by 24. 6 by 12. 6 or 9 by 9 or 12 12 by 15. {2 by 24 ) varies 4 by 48 V with 6 by 72 ) height 9 by 24. 12 by 36. 36 by 36. 9 by 15. 12 or 15 by 12 or 18 6 by 12. 12 by 86. 6 or 9 by 12. Allow a apace > Ids. square per plant. QUANTITIES OF SEEDS FOB A GIVEN AREA. 113 Quantities of Seeds for Given Areas. Kind. For Garden Plots. Per Acre. Artichokes, Jerusalem 90 sets per square rod (1 foot by 3 feet) 14,520 sets. Artichokes, Globe . . 17 suckers per square rod (4 feet by 4 feet) 2,722. Asparagus 1 oz. for 50 feet of drill ; 1 oz. of seed should give 500 plants 1 quart to 80 feet 4 to 5 lb. Beans, Broad 1£ bushels. Beans, dwarf French 1J pint to 80 feet ■ H bushels. Beans, Runner 1 pint to SO feet £, bushel. Beet 1 oz. to 30 feet of drill 5 to 6 lb. Broccoli 1 oz. should produce 1,500 plants to trans- £ii,lb., in beds to plant 2 by 2 feet transplant. Brussels Sprouts 1 oz. should produce 1,500 plants to trans- £ lb., in beds to plant 2 by 2£ feet transplant. Cabbages 1 oz. should produce 1,500 plants to trans- 1 lb., in beds to plant 1 foot or 1} by 1£ feet transplant.) .Carrots 1 oz. to 80 feet 3 to 4 lb., in drills. Cauliflowers .. See Brussels Sprouts. — 1 oz. should produce not less than 5,000 plants. 1 oz. to 100 feet — 2 to 3 lb. Cucumbers 1 oz. to 800 plants 2 lb., on ridges. Endive 1 oz. should produce 2,000 plants* — Kale or Borecole See Brussels Sprouts. — 1 oz. should produce 1,000 plants. — Lettuces 1 oz. should produce 2,000 plants. — 1 oz. should produce 800 to 900 plants. — Mustard 1 oz. .to 100 feet \ busheL 1 oz. to 200 feet 5 to 6 lb., drilled. Parsley 1 oz. to 80 feet. — Parsnips 1 oz. to 100 feet 5 1b. 1 quart to 120 feet early sorts ; 1 quart to 1 to 2 bushels ac- 150 feet late sorts 1 foo"by 2 feet; 136 sets per square rod cording to sort. Potatoes, early 21,780. Potatoes, late 1 foot by 3 feet ; 90 sets per square rod 14,520. Radishes 1 oz. to 100 feet 8 to 101b., drilled. Salsafy and Scorzonera — 8 to 10 lb. 1 oz. to 80 feet 8 to 10 lb. See Cabbage. — Shallots 363 sets per square rod (9 by 12 inches) 58,080 sets. Spinach 1 oz. to 80 feet 10 to 12 lb. ^ Tomatoes 1 oz. should give 2,000 plants ilb. , to transplant. Turnips 1 oz. to 150 feet 2J lb., drilled. Vegetable Marrows . . Cent, per cent. »*. For further notes on vegetables, with illustrations, see For pests, see Insect Section. ' Pictorial Calendar." 114 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. ft tog g >, %% 5* 1 -S ^ o Si s s-a-S^sg^g-gMl ■-,;.: S»i- I-S°|g.»g. *'3 s a-g a l-d |S^f 1 "-a -1 1: |i.s |S i- g USEFUL WSE0TI0IDE8. 115 SECTION V. INSECTS AND FUNGI, CHAPTER XXVII.— SOME USEFUL WASHES. The following series of recipes will be found exceedingly valuable in the garden. I have personally tested every one of them, and proved their efficacy, consequently I recommend them with every confidence. In a few instances I have ventured to coin names for them, compounded from the principal ingredients, for the sake of easy reference. No. 1.— Soaparite. Excluding the various advertised proprietary compounds, many of which are excellent, I regard soaparite as the most useful of garden washes. It consists of soft soap, paraffin, and water, prepared as follows : — (a) Boil 1 pound of soft soap in 1£ pints of soft water for an hour. (6) Take it off the fire, and immediately pour in | pint of paraffin, (c) Four the solution 1 into a tub containing 8 gallons of water, and churn the whole mixture with a syringe for three or four minutes. It may be bottled off when cool. Soaparite may be used : — (1) For aphides or fly of various descriptions attacking fruit, flowers, or vegetables. (2) For spraying on to young Onions in April and May, in order to keep away the maggot (3) For spraying on to Celery from June to November, in order to keep off the leaf maggot. (4) For American Blight on Apples, and for various other pests. Nate. — To avoid any risk of injury to the foliage, use soaparite in the evening, when the sun is going off the foliage. No. 2.— Sulpotide. Sulpotide is a solution of sulphide of potassium, made by dissolving | oz. of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) in 1 gallon of water. It is good for checking mildew and other fungoid diseases, but must be used in the early stages of the attack. No. 3.— Paris Green. Paris Green is an arsenical compound, valuable in mixture for spraying on to fruit trees in the early stages of caterpillar attacks. Its use must not be deferred until late in the year, for not only would it be practically useless then, the mischief having been done, but it would be highly dangerous. One ounce of Paris Green paste is enough for 12 gallons of water 116 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. *• i3"*lr > & b p « • * - o © ° 6^1* at] . o «j ww -j _. a) -^ o a . -j-lgSJd-li&issSlfi-g&ij-llg •^ of USEFUL INSEOTIOIDES. 117 and the mixture must be kept stirred, or the particles will settle to the bottom, and damage result as the operator nears the bottom of the vessel. Paris Green may be applied on a small scale by means of an Abol syringe, which is procurable from any dealer in horticultural sundries. For operations on a large scale one of Strawson's or Vermorel's pumps should be used. Wo. 4.— Quassia Water. The simplest way of making quassia water is to place a handful of the chips (procurable from any chemist or large seedsman) in 1 gallon of cold water at night; in the morning it will be ready for use, and may be sprayed on the plants with a syringe. By simply dewing over the plants in a greenhouse once a week with this bitter liquid I have kept them free from aphides all the summer through. Fruit and hop growers, who use large quantities, boil the chips with soft soap, and 1 lb. of chips will suffice to embitter 10 gallons of water. No. 5.— Sodash. Sodash is a preparation of caustic soda (preferably Greenbank's 98 per cent.) and pearlash (commercial potash), made as follows : — Dissolve 5 lb. of the caustic soda in a tub, using just sufficient water for the purpose, and pouring it carefully down the side. Dissolve the pearlash in another tub or bucket. Mix, and add enough tepid water to make up 50 gallons. Spray through a syringe, using an old pair of gloves. This preparation is excellent for clearing off moss, Lichen, or any other foul growth on the stems c-f fruit trees. No. 6.— Snlpharite. Sulpharite is a solution in which sulphur plays a part, as well as paraffin. Boil 1 lb. of lime and J lb. of sulphur in 3 quarts of water. Well stir this in the 8 gallons of soaparite solution (No. 1), and apply hot for destroying red spider. - No. 7.— Bordeaux Mixture. Bordeaux Mixture, the recognised remedy for Potato Blight and other fungoid diseases, is made as follows : — . „ ... . ( Dissolve in r 1 "?" 1 t0 S. etnel : 5 lb. sulphate of copper { uttle hot (bluestone). | water 2J lb. freshly burned lime. { "jfl^te™ The addition of a little cheap agricultural treacle makes the mixture adhere better. Eepeat at ten-day intervals if the weather remain damp and cold. Brief Notes on Fruit Enemies, with References to Remedies. American Blight attacks more than one kind of fruit tree, but Apples worst, and may be distinguished by the woolly patches on the stems and roots ; remedy, soaparite. Apple Blossom Weevil attacks the buds ; remedy, Paris Green. Apple Samfly attacks the young fruit ; remedy, Paris Green. when cool, and make up the total quantity of water to 25 gallons. ENEMIES OF VEGETABLES. 119 Winter Moth Caterpillar attacks blossoms and leaves ; remedy, Paris Green. Codlin Moth Grub attacks the young fruit ; remedy, Paris Green. Small Ermine Moth Caterpillar forms webs in the foliage ; remedy, Paris green. (Likewise brushing away webs.) Lackey Moth Caterpillar also forms web-nests ; remedy, same as for Ermine caterpillar. Canker eats away the bark ; remedies, (1) well-drained, well-fed soil, (2) surface rooting, (3) cutting out and plastering with Stockholm tar. Cherry and Pear Slug Worm attacks the foliage ; remedies, hand picking and dusting with lime. Black Currant Mite feeds within the buds ; remedy, enclose several Dushes in an air-tight sheet during winter, place a vessel within con- tainng i oz. each of water and sulphuric acid, and drop in very carefully 1^ oz. of cyanide of potassium. Keep outside in operating. Gooseberry and Currant Samfly attacks the foliage ; remedy, white Hellebore powder dusted on directly the first enemy is seen, and syringed off subsequently. Peach Blister is always severe when the foliage is exposed to cold winds ; remedies, (1) protection, (2) Bordeaux Mixture. Raspberry Weevil attacks young shoots ; remedy, hold a tarred board in a sloping direction on each side of the bushes at night, and flash a light on them. Lichen and Moss on Stems ; remedy, apply sodash. Brief Notes on Vegetable Enemies, with References to Remedies. Bean Dolphin appears in the tips ; remedy, picking off tips. Club Root in Greens forms irregular swellings on the roots ; remedy, gas lime applied at the rate of 2 lb. per square yard <* month before planting. Gall Weevil in Greens causes small knobs on the roots and stem ; remedy, gas lime, as above. Caterpillar on Greens ; remedies, (1) hand picking, (2) dusting with soot, (3) syringing with brine. Carrot Maggot attacks the roots ; remedies, (1) keep the soil close round the crowns, (2) spray between the rows with gas water diluted with six times its bulk of water. Celery Maggot attacks the leaves, and forms irregular white lines on them ; remedies, (1) hand crushing, (2) dusting with soot, (3) spraying with soaparite. Onion Maggot lays eggs on the leaves, and the grubs work their way to the roots ; remedy, spray with soaparite. Parsnip Canker causes decayed patches in the roots ; remedies, (1) avoid dung, (2) use lime in the soil. Pea Mildew, a serious pest in hot, dry weather ; remedies, (1) choose a cool soil if possible, (2) give liquid manure when the plants are podding, (3) mulch with manure or lawn mowings, (4) spray with sulpotide. Potato Blight, bad in wet, muggy seasons ; remedies, (1) grow thinly on well-drained soil, (2) earth thoroughly, (3) spray with Bordeaux mixture. Tomato Sleepy Disease causes the plants to wither and go off ; remedy, Wood's " Veltha," a proprietary compound. 120 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. = « 4= S *' -. ^ !>.« oS?4=° h 8 H. a • S IP % » « 3 *» 55 'o a \ PLANT ENEMIES. 121 Tomato Spot (Cladosporiuni) causes yellow marks on the leaves, accompanied by brown patches on the under side; remedy, spray with Bordeaux Mixture. Turnip Flea attacks the seedlings ; remedies, (1) moisten the seed witb turpentine before sowing, (2) dust the seedlings with soot in the early morning while they are wet with dew. Turnip Finger and Toe, same as clubbing in Greens. General Enemies. Aphides (Qreen, Black, and Bromn Fly) attack various plants, vege- tables, and fruit trees ; remedies, (1) tobacco powder, (2) quassia water, (3) soaparite. Med Spider. — Attack with sulpharite ; give abundance of water, and maintain a moist atmosphere ; aridity 'Bncourages the enemy. Scale. — Wash with soaparite. Thrips. — Attack with sulpharite. To Destroy Slugs. — Procure some bran, place it in small heaps along the paths, and saturate with vinegar. The slugs attracted may be killed with salt. Another Method. — Get some freshly slaked lime, and sow it over the garden at night when the slugs are feeding. To Destroy Ants. — Dissolve a lump or two of camphor in a can of water, and sprinkle about their haunts. Another Method. — Place some freshly picked bones near the nests, and when the insects are attracted destroy them with boiling water- To Destroy Wirereorm. — Freshly broken up ground, from which turf has been removed, is frequently infested with wireworm, and the pest cannot be swept away at a stroke. (1) Sow down a crop of Mustard, and turn it in. (2) Plant with Potatoes the first season, and draw the grubs off with the crop. (3) Spread on a layer of gas lime in winter if the land is bare, let it lie six weeks, and then work it in ; strength, 2 lb. per square yard. (4) Scatter down rape cake. (5) In small plots, insert Potatoes on sticks as baits. To Destroy Woodlice. — (1) Have a toad or two about the garden and greenhouse. (2) Place old, damp, decayed boards face to face, and examine them at intervals. To Destroy Earwigs. — (1) Press a little hay into small flower pots, and invert them on stakes. (2) In case of plagues of the insects, choice varieties of special plants should be stood in saucers of water. Earwigs can fly, but are usually repelled by water. To Destroy Mildew. — Dissolve 1 oz. of sulpotide in 2 gallons of water. Another Method. — Dust with flowers of sulphur, procurable from all seedsmen and chemists. To Make Dime Water. — Place a lump of freshly burned lime the size of your fist in a pail of cold water, and allow it to stand several hours. Pour off the clear water with lime in solution, leaving the sediment Lime and Sulphur for Weeds. — Boil 10 lb. of lime and 1 lb. of flowers of sulphur in 5 gallons of water. Allow the mixture to cool, and, after settling, pour the liquor off. Lime and Sulphur for Mildew. — Slake 5 lb. of lime in an iron pot, add an equal quantity of sulphur and 5 gallons of water. Mix and boil. After cooling and settling, pour the liquor off, and strain through a piece of sacking. In using, mix 1 pint with 20 gallons of water. 122 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. So en 3 .-_- an(1 i" 1 ' 1 four long strips to them. Insert a nail monin oo siana in each disc> and balance it on a grooved support. Fix the the winter. whole thing on the garden fence, and watch results. Potatoes.— Keep an eye open for the blight if we have dull, cold, muggy weatheii and at the first trace apply Bordeaux Mixture (see index). Spinach, may be sown. Tomatoes should be colouring, and weak liquid manure may be given to heavily laden plants. FRUIT. Grapes. — Damp down the house, and close early. In dry weather give good soakings to the border, which will very often help to furnish out an otherwise weak crop. Early Vines must be pruned. Peaches and Nectarines. — Give attention to the trees when the fruit has been cleared off, removing the shoots which have fruited if there is extension wood to take their places. Strawberries may still be propagated by runners. If a stock of forward plants is possessed that are not wanted for forcing, plant them out. Summer pruning may now be practised. A safe rule is to cut one- half of the breast wood, back to six leaves. If shoots break afterwards, pinch them at the first leaf. FLOWERS AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. Annuals will now be getting over, and it is best to pull them out, or they will give an untidy appearance and seed all over the garden. Half- 144 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. S ft !^a8«.a"fl*6S f .?« •i°6S8«*° .SEP 2£*>»a---S1Sa,''5 , 3s§. i »'s- &-ss .s 13 c8 M GARDEN WORK IN SEPTEMBER. 145 hardy things, such as Asters, Stocks, Phloxes, and Zinnias, will be at their best. Nemophilas, Saponarias, and Silenes may be sown for spring flowering. Begonias should now be at their best, and good soakings of water in dry weather will maintain them in beauty. Carnations must be layered into small mounds of soil made round the plants. See index for illustrated figure. Pinch out flower buds of winter sorts in pots. . Chrysanthemums will still be troublesome, as their demands for water are almost insatiable. Look for the buds. The plants are very interesting at this stage, even though they do put a tax on the grower. Cyclamen that are starting growth may be repotted. Seed may be sown for next year. Gladioli must be staked, and if exhibition spikes are being grown shades may be provided. Heliotrope may be propagated by means of cuttings. Iiiliums in pots that are pushing stem roots should be top-dressed, even if it is necessary to fit »zinc collar to the rim to keep the soil in. Pelargoniums will now be moving after their rest, and may have water as needed. Hoses may still be budded. Teas in bud will flower persistently if the flowers are kept cut. See index for useful flower holders. Vallota purpurea (the Scarborough Lily) may be' stood in the sun when it has done growing, and this ripening up of the wood will ensure finer bloom. Verbena cuttings may be taken, but many growers now prefer to sow seed in January for their season's stock. Fig. 122. — This shows a drenching board for economising water when plants are watered and washed. It ex- plains itself. SEPTEMBER. VEGETABLES. Scarlet It inner Beans in full bearing will develop a grand lot of pods if a soaking or two of liquid manure can be given. Beet of the early varieties will perhaps be ready for lifting. Do it carefully with a fork, and take care to leave 1 inch of stump when cutting away the leaves, as the roots are easily injured i 146 PICTORIAL PRAOTIOAL GARDENING. Cabbage from the summer sowings may be put into ground cleared ol! Onions. Red Cabbage may be sown. Carrots of early varieties may be lifted now. Like Beet, the}' keep well in sand. Celery from early sowings should be ready for use. Give water and sewage to later stuff. Earth when ready. Onions should be pulled up about the middle of the month — rather earlier if wet weather ensues. Let them lie on the -paths for a few days. if dry, or lay them on the roof of an outhouse in the sun. Parsnips need not be interfered with until wanted for ust,. They improve if left in the ground till winter. Potatoes must now be lifted, except the very late, slowly ripenii g sorts,which may have , . "> . another month. //; j : H ^~~< \\ Tomatoes // ' i! '-!— '■'■ • *-^\ should be ready foi I / i...j.i-i...i:..-...^ ii j-:- y itj*o gathering. If theg ,' ; j j| ;| ;l |i |; '■ are nearly all of a J ' ' =" size on the trusses, Fig. 128.— This contrivance shows a rough framework covered rem ° ve . a11 togethel with a width of waterproof transparent paper attached and ripen tneiu to a wooden roller, by means of which many plants can under cover, instead be protected at small cost. of picking off one at a time. Turnips may be sown for late autumn and winter use. FRUIT. Apples may be gathered when they part readily from the tree, but must not be dragged off. Place them gently into the receptacles tc prevent bruising. Grapes on late-started Vines should have air early, but the hous* should be closed by 3.30 p.m. The fruit will be ripe or nearly so. Raspberries. — Old fruited canes may now be shortened back tc within 1 foot of the ground. FLOWERS AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. Arum Lilies may now be lifted and potted or transferred from old to fresh pots. Azaleas and Camellias that were stood out of doors in summer may now be brought in. Bedding plants will last a long time yet if the flowers are picked off as they fade. Begonias should retain their beauty well on into the autumn. A mulching of road grit or short manure will enable them to do this. Chrysanthemums demand the same attention as before. The gTower will now be taking the last of his buds. Dahlias should be making a grand show. Give them water and liquid manure, thin the growths to show up the flowers, and they will be at their best. Garden work in ootober. u? Falling leaves should be swept and gathered np for making mould. See page 161. Freesias may be potted for spring flowering; place half a dozen bulbs in a 5-inch pot and plunge like Hyacinths. Geraniums must now be struck from cuttings for next season's stock. See index. Gladioli.— Pot The Bride for spring. Gloxinias may be propagated by means of leaves. See page 152. Hyacinths (Roman) and Paper-white Narcissi should now be potted for winter bloom. Plunge them in ashes or fibre for a few weeks. Salvias should be potted and housed. Schizanthus retusns may be sown for spring flowering. It is a lovely thing. OCTOBER. VEGETABLES. Beet and Carrots may be lifted and stored for winter use. Cauliflowers should now be proving their usefulness. Turn up the ground as they are cleared off and dress with gas lime, if it is not to be cropped at once. Celery. — Still keep an eye open for the maggot, and spray with soaparite at the first sign. Leeks may have a final earthing. Lettuces may be planted out for winter. Peas that have decayed should be cleared off, and the ground sown down with Turnips. Potatoes.— Late sorts may now be lifted. 124. — An arched pro- tector for plants, formed of hoops, to be covered with stout paper. FRUIT. Gathering is the principal task out-of-doors. See index for remarks on storing. Grape Vines from which the fruit has been cleared may now have the laterals shortened to half their length. Earlier Vines may be hard pruned. Strawberries in pots for next year's forcing should be stacked on their sides. FLOWERS AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. Begonias may be lifted when cutjby the frost and dried off, the tubers Being stored in pine sawdust to keep them safe from mice. Bedding Calceolarias may be propagated by cuttings now UH PICTORIAL PBACT10AL QABDENINQ. MCTORIAL PRACTICE. — PLAIH DINTS IK FEW WORM. Fig. 125.-HOW TO PLANT VINES B, young Vine in pot to be planted outside house and taken in : g, cane. C, point of shortening. This Viive may be allowed to go halfway up the house the first year and should then be stopped ; the next year It May go to the top ; the third year it may bear 6 lb. of fruit. QABDEN WORK IN NOVEMBER. 149 Caladiums may now gradually go to rest, but a little water should be given. Chrysanthemums must be placed under glass, watering lightly for a few days until they resume growth. Ventilate freely. Should mildew appear, dust at once with flowers of sulphur. Cinerarias and Calceolarias had better be transferred from their cold frame to the warm greenhouse. Dahlias should be lifted when black ened by frost, and stored for the winter. See index. Gloxinias may be gradually dried off. Hyacinths. — Procure for pots and glasses. Fseonies may be planted in deep, rich soil. Roses may be struck from cuttings. See index. Violets. — A frame may oe made up for plants propagated in spring (see index). A mixture of leaves and old hotbed manure will suit, surfaced with 6 inches of soil. NOVEMBER. VEGETABLES. Broad Beans and Peas are sometimes sown on the chance of their giving an early yield the following year. It is an uncertain business, but a trial does not cost much. French Beans may be sown if there is a forcing house. Broccoli should be heeled over so that they slope to the north ; they are then less likely to be carried off in hard weather. Celery should be protected with litter in frosty weather. Ground cleared of crops may be dug or trenched and left rough. Rhubarb may be planted now or in spring. Seakale may be lifted for forcing. Eemove the small roots from the forcing stick and bury them till spring. Fig. 126.— Trellis for Ivy-leaved Gera- niums. An upright stake is fixed in the centre of the pot and two crosspieces, projecting over the rim, are bound to it in a hori- zontal position with wire. A wire hoop is fastened to the ends of these, and another is fixed above. Strings from bottom to top then complete the trellis. 150 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. FRUIT. Grape Vines should be pruned, and the house cleaned up for winter. Attack mealy bug with soaparite. Fresh Vines may be planted. See page 148. Planting Trees. — All things considered, this is the best planting- month for Apples, Cherries, Pears, Plums, and bush fruits. Write for catalogues, and refer to index for illustrated instructions on sorts and methods. Pruning may also be attended to. See figures and hints in the Fruit Section. Training and tying may have at- tention in the case of wall trees, removing worn-out shreds. FLOWERS AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS, Arabis es, Aubrietias, and Forget - me - nots raised from seed may now be planted for spring flowering. They are charming for associating with bulbs. Arum Lilies may be had in flower early if they can be given a temperature of 50° to 60°. Beds and Bulbs. — Flower- beds may now be cleared up and dug Crocuses, Daffodils, and Snow- such as Hyacinths, Tulips, and Wallflowers well ; and bulbs drops, planted. Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, may now be planted where they are to bloom. Carnatiors. Hooted layers may now be lifted, potted, and put in a frame. Hyacinths and Tulips maybe potted at once and plunged in fibre. Lilies of the Valley may now be procured and forced. Lilium Harrisii and other Lilies may be procured, potted, and GARDEN WORK IN DECEMBER. 151 plunged the same as Hyacinths. Early bulbs of Lilium auratnm may be planted. See Fig. 127. " Protectors may be improvised in readiness for hard weather. See Figs. 123 and 124. Hoses.— This is the month for planting. See index for illustrated lints. Trees and shrubs may be planted. DECEMBER. VEGETABLES. Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Seakale may be forced if there ar« conveniences for forcing. Celery should be cover- ed in case of hard frost. Digging and trenching should go on as ground becomes vacant, in order to expose and sweeten it. Leeks may be lifted for use, but otherwise need not be disturbed all the winter. Lettuces in the open may have litter scattered amongst them in hard weather. Potatoes in store should be looked over, and any diseased or unsound ones removed. FRUIT. Gooseberries should be bunched up as much as possible to keep the birds from the buds, and may be drenched with soapsuds, afterwards being dusted with lime. Planting and pruning may be proceeded with as advised for November. Fig. 128.— A Useful Contrivance for Gathering up Fallen Leaves in Autumn. FLOWERS AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. Bulb planting should be completed. Camellias that are showing bloom may have a gentle stimulant, such as \ oz. of superphosphate dissolved in 1 gallon of water Chrysanthemums may be propagated by cuttings. See index for figures and instructions. The old plants may be cut down after flowering, but should be watered as before. Fuchsias may now go to rest, and be stowed away for the winter. Roses may be planted. In exposed positions place some Bracken in the branches, or draw the soil up into a mound. Tuberoses may be potted for early flowering. 152 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING. slld-a' 8,0 "" 8 e.tV-' I £ o 2 *-S •2 **ij " « o 2* SS 2 S g-S'55 s-S-g-a a s So 3 •4 « o a" w tf INDEX American blight, 115 Annuals, culture of (illustrated), 18, 19 ; selection of, 19 ; for cutting, 21 ; sowing, 130, 134, 136 Ants, how to destroy, 121 Aphides, how to destroy, 121 Apples, Lord Q-rosvenor (illustrated'), 79 ; select varieties, 80; Lane's Prince Albert (illustrated), 80 ; Bramley's Seedling (illustrated), 81 ; how to prune (illustrated), 98, 100 ; gathering, 103 ; blossom weevil and sawfly, 117 Apricots, the best, 81 ; pruning, 101 Arches, garden (illustrated), 50 Arum Liliea, dividing (illmtrated), 136 Asparagus, forcing, 123 ; planting, 129 Asters, 21 Auriculas, when to pot, 139 Barrow, garden (illustrated), 61 Bastard trenching (illustrated), 15 Beans, Black Dolphin, 119 ; sowing, 127, 132, 135 Beds, flower, designs for' (illustrated), 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 ; carpet, 25 Beet, sowing, 132 Begonias, starting Tuberous (Pictorial Practice), 61 ; select, 62 ; Lord Kitchener (illustrated), 62 ; for winter flowering, 64; propagating, 131; planting Tuberous, 139 Blackberries, the best, 81 Boiler brush (illustrated), 55 Bordeaux Mixture, 117 Bouvardias, propagating (illustrated). 134, 135 Box bridge (illustrated), 14 Broom for the garden (illustrated), 56 Bulbs for spring, 70 ; how to pot (Pictorial Practice). 74 O. Cabbages, sowing for spring, 141 Calceolarias, bedding, propagation of (Pictorial Practice), 31 Canker, 119 Carnations, propagating (Pictorial Prac- tice), 34; Ensign, 33; in the garden, 35 ; select, 36 ; remedy for spot, 36 ;. for winter, 64 ; Marguerite and Mai - maison, 64 Carpet bedding (illustrated), 24, 25 Carrots, maggot in, 119; sowing, 127, 129, 132 Caterpillars, Lackey, 119 ; Ermine, 119 ; in Greens, 119 Cats, how to keep out of gardens (illustrated), 143 154 INDEX. Cauliflowers, sowing, 123 Celery, maggot in, 119; how to grow fine (Tectorial Practice), 120 ; pro- tecting, 125 ; collar for earthing (illustrated), 142 Cherries, the best, 81 ; pruning, 101 Chrysanthemums, Bayonnante (illus- trated), 63; Emily Towers (illus- trated), 64 ; select, 64 ; B. H. Pearson (illustrated), 65 ; how to propagate (Pictorial Practice), 66 ; m airing bushy (illustrated), 67; repotting (Pictorial Practice), 68; taking buds (Pietorial Practice), 69, 71 Clematises, beautiful, 28 Climbers, select, 25 Club root in Greens, 119 Codlin moth, 119 Coleuses, propagating, 131 Conifers, dwarf, 27 Cucumbers, sowing, 129 Currants, the best, 81 ; striking cuttings (Pictorial Practice), 94 ; summer pruning (Pictorial Practice), 102 ; cure for black mite, 119 Cuttings, how to strike, 29 Cyclamens, raising and potting (Pic- torial Practice) , 144 D. Daffodils, culture and selection of, 37, 39 Dahlias, starting in spring (Pictorial Practice), 35 ; a holder for (illus- trated), 36 ; culture of, 36 ; lifting and storing (Pictorial Practice), 38 ; selec- tions of, 37 Daisy cutter (illustrated), 141 Drills, how to make (illustrated), 53; adjustable tool for (illustrated), 54 Earwigs, how to destroy, 121 Edgings (illustrated), 11, 13, 14 Evergreens, dwarf, 27 ; planting, 131 F. Ferns, case for (illustrated), 75 ; rustio basket for (illustrated), 76 ; for window cases, 76 ; potting, 131 Figs, the best, 82 Flower holders (illustrated), 52 Flowers (see also "Beds " and " Plants "), for towns, 26 ; for shady spots, 28 ; propagating, 28 ; raising choice, 59, 60 ; for greenhouses, 64 ; white, for cutting, 73 ; for Christmas, 75 Fork hoe (illustrated), 54 Frame light support (illustrated), 53 Freesias, refracta alba, 73 ; potting, 146 Fruit : Permanent orchards, 85 ; com- bined large and small, 85 ; plan of fruit garden (illustrated), 87 ; different forms of trees and how to plant them (Pictorial Practice), 86 ; profitable combinations of bushes, 88 ; number of plants per acre, 88 ; choice of site, 88 ; preparing soil, 90 ; planting, 90 ; staking, 90 ; how to graft (see "Grafting"); budding, 95; how to prune, 99 ; root pruning, 103 ; gather- ing and storing, 103 ; rooms for, 103 ; moss and Lichen on, 125 ; protecting blossom, 130 Fuchsias, select, 70 ; potting and stop* ping (Pictorial Practice), 138 Gall weevil in Greens, 119 Geraniums, bedding, how to winter (Pictorial Practice), 40 ; propagating (Pictorial Practice), 39 ; select, 41 ; select for pots, 70 Gloxinias, raising from leaves (Pictorial Practice), 152 WDEX. 155 Gooseberries, the best, 82 ; Whinham's Industry (illustrated), 82 ; striking cuttings of (Pictorial Practice), 94; how to get big (Pictorial Practice), 96 ; pruning, 101 ; summer pruning (Pictorial Practice), 102; sawfly, 119 Grafting, crown (Pictorial Practice), 91 j cleft (Pictorial Practice), 92 ; grafting large trees, 93 ; grafting small trees, 93; covering grafts, 93 grafting recipes, 95 Grapes, the best, 82 (see also " Vines ") early, 125, 127; how to thin (illus trated), 128 ; scalding, 141 Greens, winter, sowing, 130 Heating, plan of (illustrated), 57, 58 Hyacinths, supports for (illustrated), 55 ; select, 73 Indiarubber Plants, making dwarf (illustrated), 11 Insects and fungi, some useful wishes, 115 Ivies, handsome, 27 ; cutting, 132 L. Lawns, making (illustrated), 9, 11 Leaves, how to gather up (illustrated), 151 Leeks, sowing, 129 Levellers for soil (illustrated), 53 Lilies of the Valley, how to force (Pic- torial Practice), 114 Liliums, top - dressing, 145 ; auratum (illustrated), 150 Lime water, how to make, 121 M. Melons, the best, 83 ; how to grow (Pictorial Practice), 122 Mildew, how to destroy, 121 Mowing machines (illustrated), 12 Mushrooms, growing (Pictorial Prac- tice), 118 Mustard and Cress, an easy way of raising (illustrated), 126 Nuts, the best, 83 ; pruning, 101 Onions, maggot in, 119 Ornamental Grasses, 25 Palms, select, 78 Paris Green, 115. Parsnips, canker in, 119 ; sowing, 129 Paths, concrete, 13; to drain, 13 Peaches and Nectarines, the best, 83 ; how to disbud (Pictorial Practice), 105 ; blister, 119 Pears, Ciapp's Favourite (ilbistrated), 83 ; the best, 84 ; pruning, 101 ; gathering, 103 ; slug-worm, 119 Peas, mildew in, 119 ; how to have early (illustrated), 124 ; protecting from birds (illustrated), 127 ; sowing, 127, 129 ; staking, 135 Pelargoniums, Show, 70 Pelargoniums, Zonal (see Geraniums) Pentstemons, propagation of, 31 Pictorial Garden Calendar, hints and illustrations for garden work during each month of the year, 123 to 151 156 INDEX. Pinks, charming, 27 Plans of suburban gardens, 8, 10 Plants (see also " Flowers "), select perennial, 17 ; hardy, from seed, 18 ; propagating tables, 28, 29, 30 ; for a shady house, 75 ; in cases, 77 ; for windows, 76 Plant Btand, simple (illustrated), 54 ; from a butter tub (illustrated), 55 Plums, the best, 84 Potatoes, striking early in boxes (Pic- torial Practice), 116; the blight, 119 Pots, sizes of, 61 Primulas, Purple Star (illustrated), 131 Propagating, some useful tables, 28, 29, 30, 32, 33 Propagator, cheap (illustrated), 28, 29, 32, 56 Protector, waterproof paper (illustrated), 146 ; arched (illustrated), 147 Quassia water, 117 8. Scale, 121 Seakale, how to force (Pictorial Practice), 110 Seedlings, when to prick off (illustrated), 21 ; home-made box for (illustrated), 22; draining box for (illustrated), 59 Shallots, planting, 130 Shrubs, for the shade, 20 ; flowering, 27 ; for light soil, 27 ; for walls, 27 Slugs, how to destroy, 121 Soaparite, 115 Sodash, 117 Soil preparation, 14 Soils, various mixtures, 60 Sulpharite, 117 Sulpotide, 115 Stocks and Asters, raising (Pictorial Practice), 20 Strawberries, the best, 84 ; Fillbasket " (illustrated), 85 ; how to propagate (Pictorial Practice), 89 Sweet Peas, Aurora (illustrated), 46 ; culture and selection of, 47 R. Raspberries, the best, 84 ; propagating, 97 ; pruning, 101 ; weevil, 119 Red spider, 121 Rhubarb, forcing (Pictorial Practice), 108 Rockeries (illustrated), 15, 16, 17, 18 ; plants for, 16, 17 Roses, pruning dwarf and standard (Pictorial Practice), 42; Muriel Gra- hame (illustrated), 41 ; how to bud (Pictorial Practice), 44 ; how to strike cuttings (Pictorial Practice), 43; Prin- cess Beatrice (illustrated), 45 ; culture of, 44, 45 ; selections of, 45, 46 ; for pots, 70 ; pot, pruning (Pictorial fraelice), Ti Thrips, 121 Tomatoes, sleepy disease In, 119 ; spot, 121 ; sowing, 127, 130 ; planting, 137 : cordon (illustrated), 140 Trees for screens, 26 Trellis, how to make (illustrated), 149 Tuberoses, potting, 128 Tulips, select, 73 Turf, laying (illustrated), 9 Turnips, flea beetle, 121 ; finger and toes, 121 ; sowing, 130 V. Vegetable Marrows, planting, 137 Vegetables, selections of varieties, 107 ■. INDfiX. 157 sowing and cropping tables, 109, 110 ; germination of seeds, 111 ; average time in maturing, 111 ; weight of crop, 111 ; time of sowing, 112 ; depth of Bowing, 112 ; distance of planting, 112 ; quantities of seed for given areas. 113 Vines, pruning, 101 ; how to stop (Pic- torial Practice), 104 ; how to plant (Pictorial Practice), 148 Violas, raising (Pictorial Practice), 48 ; notes on, 47 Violets, 48 ; propagation of (Pictorial Practice), 49 W. Walks, weeds on, 13, 128 Watering, rules for, 60 ; a drenching board (illustrated), 145 Window boxes, how to fit, 78 ; plants for, 78 Window case, handsome (illwtratea~), 73 Window gardening, 76 Window plants, in pots, 77 Winter moth, 119 Wireworms, how to destroy, 121 Woodlice, how to destroy, 121 PB.NTED BY CA9SELI. & CoKPANY, LIMITED, La BALE SaUVAGE, LONDON, B.C. CASSELL'S GARDENING HANDBOOKS Useful Manuals for all Classes of Horticulturists. Fully Illustrated throughout. Crown 8vo. Paper covers, 1*. net; cloth. Is. 6dL net GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED " Gardening Difficulties Solved " consists of questions on all sorts of gardening subjects which have actually been asked by readers, together with replies thereto by the best authorities. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING A concise manual, giving instructions for the management of every important fruit in cultivation. The work contains upwards of ico practical illustrations. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE Deals with every important point in the culture of Chrysanthemums for show. Also methods of beautifying flower gardens and amateurs' greenhouses with this magnificent flower. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GREENHOUSE MANAGE- MENT This is the only book on Greenhouse Manage- ment of the kind published. Directions are given for the general management of green- houses, conservatories, and other glass structures. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL GARDENING A concise and pleasurable introduction to practical gardening. Directions are given for the selection and culture of the leading flowers, fruit, and vegetables. LITTLE GARDENS : How to Make the Most of Them The author shows how to make a garden, how it should be planted, and the best sorts of flowers to use. The contents also include the making and maintaining of lawns and small rockeries, the culture of roses, car- nations, and sweet peas. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL CARNATION GROWING The work practically illustrates every im- portant cultural item in every class of Car- nations and Picotees worth growing. The contents include cross- fertilisation, raising from seed, propagation, diseases and enemies, culture in pots, selections of varieties. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING Describes the whole art of Rose culture. In addition to instructions how to prepare the soil, plant and prune, the work tells how to exhibit roses, how to grow roses in pots, and nther matters. PERPETUAL CARNATIONS By Lawrence J. Cook, F.R.H.S. With 16 Full-page Illustrations. The Author, an expert grower ot the Perpetual Flowering Carnation, gives full practical instructions for their cultivation. Just Pttblished. GARDEN PLANNING AND PLANTING Tells how to lay out all sorts and sizes of gardens, designs for flower beds and borders and . many examples being given that are full of useful suggestions. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL TREE AND SHRUB CULTURE A practical manual, giving directions for propagating and pruning trees and shrubs, and selections for various purposes. A list is given of the best trees and shrubs. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL POTATO GROWING Forms a complete and concise guide to the growing of potatoes. Among the matters dealt with are fertilisation, propagation, forcing, manuring, general culture, storing. SWEET PEAS, AND HOW TO GROW THEM The work tells how to grow Sweet Peas for home and garden,, for exhibition, and in the suburbs. It tells also how to raise new varieties and sow the seed. FIRST STEPS IN GARDENING The work shows beginners how to succeed with all the most popular flowers, fruits, and garden crops. Short essays are given on propagation, potting, bedding out, etc PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING The work includes all the favourite flowers which a broad view associates with bulbs. All the salient points in the culture of bulbous, tuberous, and allied plants are given. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL VEGETABLE GROWING Directions are given for laying out kitchen gardens and allotments. The value and use of manures are described, and advice given as to the destruction of pests. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDENING The contents of the book include advice as to all phases of flower gardening. Popular herbaceous plants, as well as the leading florists' flowers, are dealt with. CASSELL & CO., LTD., LA BELLE SAUVAGE, LONDON, E.C Face cover 3] Telegrams: BARR, LONDON. Telephone: 2991 CENTRAL. 8ARR3/^ R §EEDS fo^ Flower * Kitchen Garden TWO GOLD MEDALS Awarded for Excellence by the National Vegetable Society, 1910 and 1911. BARR'S SEED GUIDE contains a Select List of the best Vegetables, and the most beautiful Flowers for Garden and Greenhouse. Sent free on application. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF SUPERIOR VEGETABLE SEEDS. 5/ 6 . 7/ 6 > 12 / 6 > 2I /"i 4 2 /"> 6 3/" to I0 5/"- Full particulars on application. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS FOR ALL PURPOSES. 2/6, 5/6, 7/6, io/6, 15/-, 21/-, 30/-, 42/- and 63/-. Full particulars on application. D ADDO Beautiful Hardy WB DAFfODILS The most lovely of all Spring Flowers Awarded Thirty Gold Medals AND A Ten-Guinea Challenge Cup. Barr's 21/° Amateur's Collection of Daffodils contains 6 Bulbs each of 26 high-class Daffodils, suitable for Greenhouse or Select Flower Border. Barr's 21/= "Woodland" Collection of Daffodils contains .500 Bulbs in 20 fine showy varieties, suitable for naturalising in Grass, Shrubberies, etc. BULBS BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF For Indoors and Outdoors. Barr's 2 1 /■" Greenhouse" Collection contains 300 Spring-flowering Bulbs of finest quality. Barr's 21/= "Flower Garden" Collection contains 600 Spring and Summer-flowering Bulbs, all decorative. Barr's 21/= "Woodland" Collection contains 800 Bulbs, suitable to naturalise in Woodland, Orchards, Wild Gardens, etc. For particulars of the above and other Collections, see Barr's Bulb Catalogue. BARR & SONS, 11, 12 & 13 KING STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON. Nurseries Cover 3] at Tap low, Bucks. Visitors Invited.