^ F 2.515 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY GIFT OF The Hull Library CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Gift of Herbert Fisk Johnson '22 F 2513.HlTT85r''™''''''''"'^ Brazil, the river Plate, and the Falklan 3 1924 019 970 544 Date Due I S 19€ ^i lll>^ t^ PRINTED IN tttf NO. 23233 The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924019970544 B E A. Z I L, {THE RIVER PLATE, AND THE FALKLAND ISLANDS; WITH THE CAPE HORN RODTE TO AUSTRiLIA. INCLUDLNQ NOTICES OF LISBON, MADEIRA, THE CANARIES, AND CAPE VERDS. BT WILLIAM HADFIEL'D, HANT YEARS RESIDENT IN BRAZIL, AND SECHBTABT TO THE SOUTH AMERICAN AND OENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. ILLUSTRATED, BT PERMISSION, FROM THE SOUTH AMERICAN SKETCHES OP SIE W. GOEE OTJSEIEY, K.C.B., LATE HER MAJESTY*8 MINISTER PLENIPOTENTIARY TO THE STATES OP LA PLATA, AND FORMERLY CSCARGE D'AFPAIRES AT THE COURT OP BRAZIL, AND, BY PERMISSION, FKOM THE DRAWTXQS Oir SIE CHAELES H T H A M, K.C.B., DURING HIS BEOKNT MISSION TO PAEAGUAY, OP WHICH COUNTRY MUCH NEW INPORMATION IS SUPPLIED ; AS ALSO OP THE REGION OF THE AMAZON. PORTRAITS, XAVS, CHARTS, AND FLANS. LONDOIT: LONGMAN, BROWN, GR^^EN, AND LONGMANS. 1854. 25"I3 /85'4" LONDON : JOHN CASSELL, PBIKTER, LUDGATB-UILL. CONTENTS. rASE EXPLANATORY PREFACE. Steam requirements of Anglo South American commerce anterior to 1850. How supplied then. Inadequacy of means to the general end, and to Lancastrian ends in particular. Subsequent supply. Liverpool still left out. Cliartered liberty to help itself and the consequence thereof Paddle pioneer of the ocean feet to the Plate. Dates and distances in a new line. What may be done by putting on the screw jor three months. Fifteen thousand miles of steaming, with the Author's notes thereon, and suggestions for the same being continued by other people. Epi- logue apologetic 1 INTRODUCTION. Cursoj^y retrospect of South American discoveries. Their dignities then, how to he estimated at present. Their interest to this age as compared with that of ancient conquests. Cruelties of the early invaders. Retributive visitations. Columbus and his cotemporaries. Cortez and the conquest of Mexico. Subsequent position of the countT^. Santa Anna, his antecedents and prospects. Ptzarro in Peru, and his Lieutenant, Almagro, in Chill. . Condition of those republics since and now: their past gold andpj'esent guano. Modem commanders in those countries. Predomin- ance oftlie Irish elemsnt in the fray. The G'Learysand CHlggijises in the Andes^ San Martin and his ald-de-camp, G*Brien, and his auxiliary, M*Cabe. The Por- tagiiese discoverers. Magellan and his Straits, and Peacoclis steaming to the Pacific three hundred years ofierwards, Cabral and Brazil. De Gama and the Cape, and Canwens" celebration of the achievement. Enrichment of the IbeHan Peninsula from these causes. Subsequent impoverishment of mother countries and colonies. Exceptional position of Brazil in this respect, and reason thereof. Dif- ferent results in North America^ and why. Imperfect knowledge in Europe of South America. Works tliereon. Characteristics of the several authorities: Pres- cot% Southey, Koster, Gardner, Humboldt, Dr. Dundas, Woodbine Parish, M'Cann, Edioards, Maury, and others. Want of information still on Paraguay and the region of the Amazon. Object of this volume to supply that void. Aim of the Author not political, but commercial. 8 CHAP. I, — ^LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. Illustrations — The Argentina on her maiden voyage. Belem Castle, nioutli of the Tagns. Praca do Commercio, Lisbon. Cintra, near Lisbon. Palace of Adjuda. The Argentina on her maiden voyage. Capacity and capability of the river boat at sea. From the Mersey to the Tagus in four days. I^ord Carnarvon on Mafra and its marble halls. Aspect and Attributes of the lAisitanian Capital and its Vicinage. Portuguese Millers and the grinding process among the grain groioers. Native memorabilia of the earthquake, and Anglo reminiscence thereof. The hie jacet of Tom Jones, and eke of Roderick Random. Portuguese peculiarities. Personal and political economy. Fiscal fatuities. Market-jilace notabilla. Lisbon society. Cbihsand Cookery, Tea and t-um-out. Friars, females, and fashions. Lusitanian fdidgos, or Portuguese peers in parliament. Portugal the Paradise of protectionists and poverty. Free Trade the only corrective of such calamities. Court circulars. U CONTENTS. PAGK Conventions, and Commanders. Few books about Portugal, and necessity for more. Bints from the newest, including the Oliveira prize essay. Diplomatic andconsular memoranda 35 CHAP. II. — ^LISBON TO MADEIRA. Illustration. — The Laurel Tree. 7'wo more days^ pleasant paddling on the ocean. Approach to Madeira. Charming aspect of the island. Unique boats and benevolent boatjhen. Pastoral progression in bucolic barouches extraordinary. Personal appearance of the inhabitants. At- mospheric attractions of Madeira,^ and absence of all natural annoyances. The vine-blight and its consequence^, present and prospective, on the people at home and the consumption of their wine abroad. Funchal, and its urban and suburban et ■ceteras. Romance and^eality of the -fiistory of the island. ' Once Upon a Time.* Importance of English residents to the place. Cost of living, and wliat you get for your money. Royal and illustrious visitors. Mercantile vuUters, and consular cordiality. Grave reflections in the Bntish burial-ground. 65 CHAP. III. — MADEIRA TO CAPE VERDS. Illustration — Interior of Hotel, Teneriffe. . Oceanic sailing again. Halcyon zueather, and modern steaming to the Fortunatse In- siilsi of the ancitnfs. A' stare on the saffron-colmired singing birds. Touching Teneriffe, and MUtonic parallel to the Arch-Enemy. Approach to Porto Grande, and what loe found there, especially its extensive accommodation for steamers. Deficiency of water the one drawback. Something concerning Ethiopic Serenaders under the line. Promethean promontory extraordinary. A memento of mortality midway in the loorld. Portuguese rewards honourably earned by an Englishman. Utility of Consuls in such places. First acquaintance with an earthquake. Verd grapes soured by a paternal government. Intercha/nge of news between tlie Out- loard and the Homeward bound. A good propelling turn towards a brother of the screw 74 CHAP. IV. CAPE ST. VINCENT TO PERNAMBUCO. Progress from Porto Grande to Pernambuco. Steam triumphs against trade tcind. Further superiority of screw over sail. Tlie Argentina in a south-wester. Apropos of malaria, and something sanitary about Brazil. Tim yellow fever: wJience comes it, and what has become of It. QuarreU about quarantine. Brazil in advance of the old country in these matters 82 CHAP. V. EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. Illustration — Entrance to Pernambuco Harbour. Bather prefatory and not very particular, tlwugh somewhat personal. Boohs on Brazil shmdd be in the Mediam Viamyb?" tJie present route, avoiding the Scylla of extreme succinctness and the Charybdls of needless dlffuseness. Object of the author to attain the golden medium. With what success, gentle reader, say ? Discovery of the country by the Portuguese. Their subsequent disputes wlth^ andfinal expul- sion of, the Dutch. Extent and jyopulatlon ; variety of soil and produce. Difficulty, of communication between the provinces and the capital, in conseqvsnce of the ex- treme distance and imperfect means of travelling. Extraordinary instance of the round-about nature of news circulating in Brazil some time ago. Steam corrective of such sluggishness. A glance at the Brazilian littoral, beginning vnlh t/te Amazon, and ending loith Rio Ch^ande do Sid. Pard and its productions. Rio Negro, and its recent political elevation. Maranham and its mercantile importance. Lalrd^s steam leveller, on the singular stream of the Ttapecuru. Justice for England by Maranham magistrates. Plaiihy and its i^roducts; also Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte, and Pa.raiba. Pernambuco revisited by the %omter, and welcomed loith a rythmetical sentimental something concevniiig '■Long, long ago! ^ g3 CONTENTS. CHAP. VI. — -PERNAMBUCO. Blustrations — PernambucOi ■ I De Mornay's Patent Cane Mill. Chora Menlnas. I That strain again !^ 'It hath a dying falV 'Auld Lang Syne, or His thirty years ago.' Aspect of Pernambuco from the sea. Tripartite division of the city, Recife, St. Antonio, and Boa Vista. Note on the old town of Olinda and its new name- sake, the steamer No. 2 of this A 1 line. March of imp7'ovement iy lojnd and sea, in respect to ships and city. Such Brazilian progress a lesson for West Indians. Frugality and personal activity on the one hand, prodigality and vicarial misma- ' nagemcTit on the other, being the real difference between the position of the planters- in either place. Sitgar-manufactm-ing improvemmts. De Mornay's patent cans- crushing mill, and its merits. Exports of Pernambuco to United States. Peculi- arities of the soil, population, and produce. Hygienic hints to the consumptive and the yellow-feverish. Initiation of the raihoay era, by the De Mornays, in Pernam- buco, and the immense importance of the proposed line. Mr. Borthwick's report on tlie project, and ilie writer's anticipation of its success 100 CHAP. VII. — AlAGOAS AND SEEEQIPE. Area, products, and population of Alagoas. Maceio, the princial seaport. Rivers navigable only by boats, except the San, Francisco. Primitive condition of the province of Seregipe, andprospects of rapid improvement through railways. ... 117 CHAP. VIII. — BAHIA. niiistrations — ^Entrance to the port I Chapel of San Goncalo, Bahia. of Bahia. I Bahia, its old name retain^ in a new place : the province and the city; present con- dition and splendid prospects of both, Intra-mural peculiarities and extra-mural properties. Prolific sugar produce. Historic, artistic, and archmological attrac- tions of Baliia. Souvenirs of the Jesuits. Belies of St. Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Xavier. A Bahian church built in Furope. British Bahian clergyman and local railways. Health of the city. A Brazilian, poet loarbling native wood- notes very wild. Necessity for keeping a nautical eye in fine frenzy rolling towards the Abrolhos. Departure from Bahia, and approach to the Brazilian capital. Notes 120 CHAP IX. — KIO JANEIEO. Aqueduct and Convent of St. Teresa. Falls of Itamarity. Illustrations —Entrance to the Harbour. Organ Jloiintains and Sugar-loaf Eock. Convent of Ncssa Senora da Penha. Night upon the waters, and daybreak on the land. Beauty of the approaclies. Appre- hended retrogression, but real progression, in the city. The stag mania in the tropics, and some of its consequences. Notes on carriages, operas, snuff-taking, polking washerwomen, blacks, whites, odds and ends, and things in general, original and \ imported. Social, sanitary, and governmental matters of divers kinds. Composition of the Brazilian Cliamiers, and business therein. State of parties. Abolition of the slave trade. Sittings of the senate. No necessity for Mr. Broiherton inthe Brazils. Character of the present Emperor. Wreck of the Pernambucano. Heroism of a black sailor. Rigorous regulations of the Rio custom-houm. Suggestions for the extension of Brazilian commerce, and the prevention of smuggling. Revisal of the Brazilian tariff. Educational progress since 1808. French literature and fashion. Provisions in the Rio market. Monkeys and lizards articles of food. Oranges, bananas, chirimoyas, and granadillas. Difficulties of the labour question since the 1 suppression of the slave-trade. Character of the Indians. State of feeling as re.) yards the coloured people. Negro emancipation ' looming in the future: An expe-i rimental trip on the Rio and Petropolis railway 1 136 IV CONTENTS. PAGE MEMOIR OF ADMIRAL GRENFELL. Illostration— Portrait of Admiral Greafell 185 CHAP. X. — THE AMAZON, Sources of the Maranon, Rapids and cataracts. Embouchures of the Amazon. Its volume, compared with the Ganges and the Brahmapootra. Its discovery by Pinzon. Expedition of Orellana. Gold-seeMng expedition of Pedro de Orsua. Settlement of Par d, and discovery of the Rio Negro. The missions of the JesultSj and their expulsion. Discovery of th6 communication between the Amazon and the Orinoco. Revolution o/" 1S35. Pard: its streets and public buildings. Explorations of M. Castelnau and Lieutenant Hemdon. Tributaries and settlements of the Tocantins. Lieutenant Gibbon's exploration of the Madera. Sis interview with General Behu. What is wanted to turn the stream of tropical South American commerce eastward. Herndoyi^s descent of the Huallaga. Tarapoto^ and its future prospects. Chasuta: its trade with Lima and Pard. Yurimaguas, and the Cachiyacu. Steamboat com- munication between Nauta and Pard. Progress of apiece of cotton from Liverpool to Sarayacu. Estimated cost and profit of steam vessels on the Amazon. Trade of Egas. The new province of Amazonas. Exports ofBarra. The Rio Negro and its tributaries. Communication by the Cassiquiwri beticeen the Amazon and the Orinoco. Productions of Amazonas. Santarem. The Tapajos, and its tributaries. Rapids of the Paru and the X/'ngil. Climate and products of Pard. Benefits to be expected from the opening of the Amazon and European immigration 193 DR. DUNDAS ON BRAZIL: ITS CLIMATE AND PEOPLE. Salubnfy of the CUmnte. Causes of, proofs of objections to. Northern, southern, and central provinces. Equability of temperature. Heat, humidity, rain, wind.% elec- tricity, hail, ice. Tropical heat and light. Influence on Europeans. Acclimatiza- tion. Increase of certain diseases. Yellow fever; its probable disappearance. Physical, social, moral, and religious condition of the people. Prophylactic measures. 214 CHAP. XI. MONTE VIDEO. Illustrations— Portrait of Sir W. G. Ouseley, K.C.B, The Lasso, The Stray Cow. Yiew of Monte Video. Milk at a rial a glass. First impressions of the Uruguayan capital unfavourable. The New Custom House. An instance of enterprise without prudence. Commercial advantages of Monte Video. Prosperity obtained at the expense of Buenos Ayres. Revisal of the Buenos Ayrean tariff. Alluvial deposits of the Rio Plata. Gas from, mares* grease. Traces of a siege. Unprqfltable ploughing by Oribe's projectiles. Con- dition of the Streets. The horses of La Plata, and the Lasso. Commerce of London with Monte Video and Buenos Ayres. Glides for the Australian gold diggings. Diminution of the Customs. Bitter fruits of British and French inter- vention. Sir William Gore Ouseley and the British Loam. The market-place, Italian boatmen. Encouragement to Joreigners. As2:>ect of the environs. The latest revolution,. Sketch of the history of Monte Video 229 CHAP. XII. BUENOS AYRES. lUustration-^Yiew of Buenos Ayres. j May-day in Buenos Ayr&s. Quinta, or country house. La Plaza Victoria. View from the terrace of the qninta. Palermo. Negro laundresses at Buenos Ayres. Apothecary's shop. View on the river. Gomg to mass. CONTENTS. V PAGE Departure from Monte Video. Streets and buildings of the Argentine capital. The climate and the people. Prohibition of the slave trade. Characters of the dictator and his successor, Urquka. Argentine Confederation. Foreign intervention amd capture of Rosas' feet. Capitulation of General Oribe, amd fall of Rosas. Fluvial obstructions to trade and navigation. English residents. Railway projects. South American debate. Foreign shopkeepers and Irish servants. General Paz 260 MEMORANDA ON ROSAS, URQUIZA, AND THE PAMPAS. * lUustratioa —Portraits of Generals Rosas and Urquiza 290 CHAP. nil. UP THE PARANA. Illustrations — Eosario. I Corrientes. San Nicolas. I Preparations for an experimental trip up the Parana. Captain Sullivan's descent oj the river at a terrific pace. Island of Martin Garcia. Note on the confluents of the Rio Plata. A Scotch expemmentdl philosopher in Cormentes. Alluvial deposits at the delt i of the Parana. Signs of progress in the interior. An American pioneer of civilization. The steamer agrmmd, and fired upon. Moonlight on the river and the woods. Geographical note on the Parana and the Plata. Obligado amd San Nicolas. Mr. Machinnon's description of the scenei'y. Arrival at Rosario. Mul- tifarious applications of hides and horns. Descent of the river, and arrival at Martin Garcia. Corrientes and the guachos. Difficulties of the navigation, and a '' word about the Uruguay 305 CHAP. XIV. PARAGUAY. Illustrations — Portrait of Sir Cliarles Hotham, K.C.B. View of Assumption. View near Assumption. Cliurch of the Recoleta. Portrait of General Lopez. Sources of information. General Pacheco. Inaccuracies of Sir Woodbine Parish. Navigability of the Parana by large vessels. Decrees of the government of Para- guay on the treatTnent of foreigners. Decrees relative to inventions and improve- ments. Mr. Drabble's commercial mission, and its results. Cultivation of cotton. Drawbacks to its extension. Scarcity oflaiour. Provisions of the treaty between Great Britain and Paraguay. The commercial resources of that country little hnown in this. Navigability of the Paragwiy amd the Uruguay. Obligation of the Brazilian and Buenos Ayrean governments to remove impediments. Population of Paraguay. Public works undertaken by the Consular Government. Salubrity of the climate. Fertility of the soil. Pasturage illimitable. Character of the Para- guayans. President Lopez. Diplomatic mission of Sir Charles Hotham. General Lopez. State of the country at the death of Francia. First measures of the Con- sular Government. Revenue of Paraguay. Administration of justice. Revision of the tariff. Release of political prisoners at the termination oJ Francia's Reign of Terror. Anticipations of intercourse vnth Europe 328 MEMOIR OF SIR CHARLES HOTHAM, K.C.B. CHAP. XV. HOMEWARD BOUND. Illustration — The Brazileira on her homeward voyage. Departwrefrmn Buenos Ayres. Arrival at Monte Video. Guano deposits of Patagonia. Bahia Blanca. Eligibility of the district for an overland route to Chili. Chilian grant for direct steam communication with England. Accessions to steam naviga- tion on the Brazilian coast. Opening of the Amazon. Departure from Monte Video. VI CONTENTS. PAGE Rmigli ioind and heavy sea. Aspect of Raza wider vanous lights amd shades. Hotel accommodation of Bio Janeiro. . A wet day at Bahia. Consular memoranda on Venezuela, Bolivia, arid Equador, Arrival at Pernamhueo. Meeting with the Olinda. Arrival at Porto Orande. Seven days^ steaming against the wind, Madura in the distance. Arrival at Belem. Miseries and absurdities of the quarantine system. Towing the pilot astern. Passage up St. George's Channel. Arrival in ' the Mersey. Loss of the Olinda and the Argentina. New oce-an and river steamers. 359 * THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. Advantages presenfed as a convict settlement, as place of refit for merchantmen, and a naval depdt. The Corporation of tJie Falkland Islands^ Company. Healthiness of the climate. The abundance of fresh water. Cost oftra/nsport less than that to other colonies. Geographical position and extent. Distance from the Main. The small naval force required. Causes of insecurity at other settlements not found here. Their detachment a provision against escape. Guard less required here than else- where. The cheapness of provisions : Imw supplied. Employment. The gradual supply of convicts n^t requisite. How first comers may be disposed of. Smallness of preliminary outlay, and its speedy return. Opinions oj various servants of the Crown. Two propositions. The riddance of comicts. Relief to the mother cmmtry. Redemption ofthepledge made to convicts. Facilities for reformation. Restoration of the penitent to society without risk to the innocent. Agricultural school for Juve- nile convicts. Complete depdt for naval re-fit near Cape Horn. Saving of port charges and of freight. Easy performance of ships' repairs, if patent slip laid down. Secure coaling station for steamers. First-rate naval station : 'key of the Pacific ' in time of war. Testimony of Governor Rennie and Captain Motthews of the Great Britain. g^g .njf...-.l l,vi:-.,i^c I'hilij, *: S, »dc la Sienna W^f .srt?*'^ EXPLANATORY PREFACE. steam Requirements of Anglo South American commerce anterior to 1850. — ^How supplied then. — Inadequacy of Means to the General End, and to Lancastrian Ends in particular. — Subsequent Supply. — ^Liverpool still left out. — Chartered Liberty to help itself, and the consequences thereof. — Paddle Pioneer of the Ocean Fleet to the Plate. — Dates and Distances in a new Line. — ^What may be done by. putting- on the Screw for Three Months. — Fifteen Thousand Miles of Steaming, with the Author's Notes thereon, and Suggestions for the same being continued by other people. — Epilogue apologetic. Until 1850, the Eastern coast of South America, including the extensiye and flourishing empire of Brazil, and the boundless regions watered by the La Plata and its tributaries, were entirely without European steam navigation. The old process of saihng- ships, and a monthly sailing-packet from Falmouth, conveying mails, were the only medium of communication. In that year, the Royal Mail Company entered upon the service they had undertaken with government, to run a monthly steamer from Southampton to Rio Janeiro, and a branch steatner to the River Plate. The vessels placed on the station were drafted from their West India fleet ; and, although not possessed of extraordinary steaming or sailing qualities, they performed the voyage with regularity, and in a space of time which reduced to one half that ordinarily occupiec^ by the sailing-craft. The consequence was an augmentation of trafiic, both of goods and passengers, such as few persons contemplated, and the hue proved speedily unequal to the task of dealing with either to the extent required. More- over, it was found that one very important feature in the case, Z EXPLANATORY PREFACE. a direct traffic with the Eiver Plate, was quite unprovided for, and no provision whatever made bj which goods and merchan- dize could be forwarded thither, the branch steamer from Rio Janeiro only taking passengers. But, even had mercantile neces- sities in this direction been supplied, there was a strong feeling that Liverpool, as the emporium of British trade with South America, ought to possess a steam-line of its own, and that goods and pas- sengers should not be compelled to find their way to Southamp- ton. The great manufacturing districts which have Liverpool for their seaport supply at least seven-eighths of the entire trade to South America,* and it seemed an anomaly that no direct steam communication should exist between them. Accordingly, in 1851, parties connected with the district, having organized a company, went before the Board of Trade for a royal charter, alleging, as a reason for such concession, the importance of our interests in the quarter named, the necessity of more frequent intercourse since steam had been established, and that once a month was not suffi- cient for wants so extensive and pressing. These arguments, * In reference to the preponderating interest of Liverpool in this trade, an iniiuential metropolitan journalist, commenting on the treaty with Paraguay soon after its ratification in London, ohserves : — Liverpool is the very centre and focus of oiu- foreign trade. Tliere almost every man you meet is either engaged in commerce, or is in the service of those so engaged. Liver- pool, like the seat of the Pope of Rome — but in a -mdely ditferent sense — has its agents and its commercial missionaries in every climate and in every latitude, and there is not one among them wITo is not as intent and energetic in his work as those ' soldiers of the faith,' whom Rome sent out on the South American missions in the two centxiries from 1535 to 1733. The fier^- enthusiasm of Don Pedro de Mendoza himself, who offered Charles V. to complete the conquest of Paraguay and the Rio de la Plata at his own ex- pense, is eqiudled by some of those indomitable agents of the comiting-house, who are as zealous for conunercial conquests as the Andalusian Hidalgo was for the aggrandise- ment of his Sovereign and master. "We doubt that even Father Charlevoix himself, so often cited and praised by his brother Breton, Chateaubriand, and who has given us six volumes of a charming histon- of Paraguay — ^which he explored in person — exhibited more zeal for the interests of his order in the countries watered by the Rio de la Plata, the Rio Salado, the Rio Negi-o, the Catapuliche, and the Rio de la Encarnacion, than do those Liverpool junior partners, clerks, and supercargoes, who are charged with the in- terests of considerable commercial houses in such distant latitudes. * » * * Thi-ough the rivers opened to us by the efforts of Lord Malmesbury, one-fonrth, at least, of the produce of South America, must be brought to the market of the world, and of this commerce Liverpool will certainly have the largest, and Bristol, Glasgow, and Lon- don, a considerable share. EXPLANATOBT PREFACE. 3 backed, as they were, by memorials from Liverpool, Manchester, and other places, had weight with Her Majesty's Government, and a charter of incorporation was obtained. The directors imme- diately proceeded to contract for the building of suitable steamers ; but delay, caused by unusual pressure of work, somewhat retarded intended operations.* On the 27th of August, 1853, the company's first, or pioneer, steamer intended for the River Plate station, sailed from Liver- pool, and was followed on the 24th of September by the ocean steamer, Brazileira, Captain Daniel Green, who had long com- * In the original prospectus of the company, whose calculations, apart from two wrecks, as to the performances of their vessels have since been so well verified by experience, it was stated that, ' The importance and extent of our trade with Brazil and the River Plate, and the necessity which exists for a more perfect postal communication with these countries, mainly suggested this enterprise ; and, ac- cordingly, the first efibrts of this company wOl be devoted, not only to supply the desideratum of a bi-monthly mail, but to afford to shippers of goods a cheap and speedy conveyance, which the acceleration of the mails over the old system of sailing packets renders most desirable ; the tonnage at present employed in the Rio and River Plate trades, from the Port of Liverpool alone amounts to 30,000 tons annually, while the value of exports, principally consisting of Man- chester and other similar fabrics, is upwards of three millions sterling per an- num. The number of first class passengers was, imtil the establishment of the mail steamers, very circumscribed ; but since that period it has materially in- creased, not less than one hundred per month, each way, being now the ave- rage. Of the second class of passengers and the lower description of emigrants the numbers who have gone from Great Britain and the continent, by sailing vessels, has been very great, more than is generally supposed, not fewer than 4,000 persons having emigrated to Rio Grande and the Southern ports of Brazil during the last year, while to the River Plate the numbers for years past has been still more considerable ; and the inducements held out to emi- grants in both countries are so great, that, with the additional facilities afforded by a regular steam communication, a largely, progressive increase may be fairly calculated on. Thus it will be seen that a large field is open for this company's operations, and, as the rates of passage proposed to be charged are extremely moderate, being within what has hitherto been obtained by sailing- ships, it is not unreasonable to suppose that the estimate of the number of pas- sengers, upon which the requisite calculations are based, is under what may fairly be expected from this country, the contment, and Portugal. Three steam-ships, of from 1,500 to 1,700 tons, and about 300 horse-power, will, in the first instance, be built for the Rio line. The vessels will be modelled after the most approved principles, and, with the ample power proposed, it is con- fidently anticipated that an average speed of at le.ist 10 knots per hour will b2 4 EXPLANATORY PREFACE. manded clipper vessels in the Brazil trade. As secretary to tho company, and possessing a local knowledge of Brazil, it was thought desirable that the author should proceed in the Argen- tina, for the purpose of seeing that proper arrangements were made at the ports of call for their vessels, and to obtain from foreign governments the facilities and assistance requisite to carry on a steam company of this magnitude with any success. The voyage was accomplished in a little more than three months, the writer having returned to Liverpool, by the Brazileira, on the 5th of November, during which time he had gone over nearly 15,000 miles of distance (including a trip up the Parana), spent a fort- night at Rio Janeiro, and three weeks in the River Plate, besides caUing at all the stations both ways, namely, outwards — Lisbon, Madeira, St. Vincent, Pernambuco, and Bahia ; and, homewards — Bahia, Pernambuco, St. Vincent, and Lisbon, which latter is to be the track of the regular ocean line, subject to modifications, &c. Thus, it will be seen, from this brief recapitulation of dates and distances, that in the space of two months a merchant can visit his Brazil establishment, and another, under three months, can look after his River Plate affairs, often saving himself much anxiety and loss of time. The manufacturer can, without great trouble, make himself practically acquainted with the markets he wishes to trade to ; the botanist and naturalist can quickly be transported to the virgin ground of Paraguay, or, now that the Brazilian govern- ment have placed contract steamers on the greatest of all great rivers, may ascend the Amazon, with like certainty of reward as novel and varied, and depend on a prompt return of his newly acquired specimens. Whilst, which is equally important, be attained. The branch boat will be of smaller dimensions, suitable for the navigation of the River Plate. It is calculated that the passage to Rio will not exceed twenty-five days, and that the whole distance to the River Plate will be accomplished in thirty-five days, including the needful detention in Rio to transfer the cargo and passengers to the branch boat. The average passages of the best ships at present employed is not less than fifty days to Rio, and sixty to the River Plate.' The branch boat, it will be seen hereafter, was lost, as likewise the Olinda, the second ship of the Ocean line, both, how- ever, having been replaced. EXPLANATORY PREFACE. 5 the natives of those countries have an opportunity of visiting Europe, and forming, by personal contact, those relations of amity and good will which tend so much to soften prejudices, and bring about a right understanding on all points mutually advantageous. Hence the ramifications of such enterprises as steam are most interesting in their results to mankind ; and, if once the tide of emigration begins to set in fairly towards that immense agricul- tural field watered by the rivers of South America, there is no foreseeing the extension of wealth and prosperity that must as- suredly foUow ; for population is the sole requirement to fit these limitless and teeming regions to work out the destiny which it is impossible to doubt that Providence, in the fulness of time, has designed for that portion of the earth, where the majesty and the luxuriance of nature invite the presence of man through high- ways at once the mightiest and most facile in the world. A desire to place these objects forcibly before the public is the origin of this work. Though conscious of its imperfections and short-comings, the writer would guard against the imputation of impertinence in offering it as the result merely of the experience derived from the rapid run out and home indicated in the re- marks just preceding. He is no book-maker ; though he ven- tures to hope that his book will, in some degree, fill a vacuum left by certain recent accomplished professors of that branch of the fine arts in this department of travellers' information for the untravelled pubhc. The several topics discussed'in the ensuing pages have been the subject-matter of his earnest consideration for many years. Long resident in South America, and familiar with its commercial necessities, his attention had naturally been directed to all the mercantile points embraced in the old circle of communication with Europe ; while the circumstances of his posi- tion, in connection with a new enterprise, enabled him to contem- plate matters in a somewhat novel light ; and he was peculiarly fortunate in deriving his knowledge of the recent interesting diplomatic and commercial incidents in the Upper Parana and the Paraguay on the spot, and from the most compcLent sources. EXPLANATOET PREFACE. Assiduously availing of these and all others of a hke kind when- ever they presented themselves, — which was not unfrequently — he has, wherever practicable, rendered the expression of his own remarks subordinate to the main design of bringing together whatever data should serve to make his volume useful as an ex- position, at one view, of the present condition, primarily, of the East Coast and the Amazon and Platine interior, and, incidentally, of South America generally — an object embraced in no other single publication of this class. He is well aware that a complete embodi- ment of such a design would tax powers far higher and opportu- nities more varied than his. But he will be content, if, in succeed- ing a little, he should be the means of stimulating others to achieve a great deal more in a like direction. Though necessarily containing little that is new, the resume of discoveries, prefixed to the opening chapter, is offered as likely to be serviceable in recalling to the elder reader some of the more salient facts he already knows, but which are necessary to be repeated ; and in suggesting to the younger student of South .Vmerican history, — than which it is hardly possible to name any more exciting, dehghtful, or instructive, — those sources that will render him easily cognizant of what has been written on the several branches of the subject up to the present date. A similar justification, it is hoped, will serve for the seeming surplusage of the remarks under the head of Lisbon, Madeira, and the Verds ; though it will be found that the chapters devoted to those well- known places contain a good deal of fresh information calculated to be acceptable to all calling at the several ports. Often observing the inconvenience experienced by South Ameri- cans coming to England, and by Enghshmen proceeding to South America, from unacquaintance with the names and residences of the respective diplomatic and consular agents in both countries, the author has been at some pains to collect the necessary infor- mation on this head ; and, as regards the antecedents of the English ofiicials, has relied upon that very useful manual, the ' Foreign Office List for 1854,' by Mr. F. W. H. Cavendish, Precis EXPLANATORY PREFACE. / Writer to the Earl of Clarendon. The large map of South Ame- rica has been expressly prepared for this volume, chiefly with a view to exhibit the river navigation affected by the late treaties, and will be found, I have every reason to believe, much the most correct that has yet been published of the whole continent ; for, generally speaking, maps of South America, or of any portion of it, are ludicrously inaccurate. The map of the growingly import- ant settlement of the Falkland Islands has likewise been adapted from the most recent surveys, and is calculated to prove of benefit to captains making the homeward Australian voyage by Cape Horn. Claughton, Birkenhead, March 30, 1864. 1 K T K ]) U C T 1 N. Oui'sovy Retrospect of South American Discoveries. — Their difficulties theu, how to he estimated at present. — Their interest to tliis age as compared with ancient conquests. — Cruelties of the early invaders. — Retributive >lsitiitions. — Columbus and his cotemporaries. — Cortez and the conquest of Mexico. — Subsequent position of the country. — Santa Anna, his ante- cedents and prospects. — Pizarro in Peru, and his Lieutenant, Almagro, in Chili. — Condition of those Republics since and now : their past gold and present guano. — Modem commanders in those countries. — ^Predominance of the Irish element in the fray. — The O'Learys and O'Higginses in the Andes. — San Martin and his aid-de-camp, O'Brien, and his auxiliary) M'Cabe. — The Portuguese discoverei-s. — ^Magellan and his Straits, and Peacock's steaming to the Pacific three hundred years afterwards. — Cabra, and Brazil. — ^De Gama and the Cape, and Camoens' celebration of the achievement. — -"Enrichment of the Iberian Peninsula from these causes — Subsequent impoverishment of mother countries and colonies. — Excep- tional position of Brazil in this respect, and reason thereof. — ^Different results in Xorth America, and why. — Imperfect knowledge in Europe of South America. — ^Works thereon. — Characteristics of the several autho- rities : Prescott, Southey, Koster, Gardner, Humboldt, Dr. Dundas, "Wood- bine Parish, M'Cann, Edwards, Maury, and others. — ^Want of information still on Paraguay and the region of the Amazon. — Object of this Volume to supply that void.— Aim of the Author not Political, but Commercial. Nearly four centuries have rolled past since the great discoveries of Columbus and his followers led to the estabhshment of Spanish ;iud Portuguese dominion over the vast continent of South INTRODUCTION. il America, and were succeeded somewhat later by the still more important settlement of the Anglo-Saxon race on the northern portion of the New World.* These events, marvellous in them- selves and in their accessories, and momentous from the way in which they have affected the destinies of the human race, present a study singularly and enduringly interesting, differing so strongly as they do from the characteristics of ancient history. The latter are necessarily contemplated by the reader as types and symbols of the past, on which he has only the privilege of reflecting ; whilst in the former case, in perusing the story of these comparatively modern discoveries of hitherto unknown continents, he feels himself almost a sharer in the adventures of those extraordinary men by whose deeds his own present destiny is so essentially influenced. He cannot desire to be a Lycurgus or 'a Phocion, a Caesar or a Cato ; but it is no tax on the imagination, no repulse to the feehng, to picture himself a Columbus in embryo, and his soul and being is wrapt up in the narrative of that great voyager. The English are proverbially a nautical people, nursed and cradled in the lap of that ocean with whose element their earliest sympathies are enlisted and identified. In these days it is a Ught matter indeed, with the facilities of progression abound- ing on all sides, and the great ministrant of celerity, steam, at our command in every form, to ramble from one extremity of the earth to the other ; but the slightest retrospection sufiices to * Though the gi-eat Genoese came in sight of St. Salvador, Bahama Islands, on the 11th of October, 1492, it was not until 1497 that he found the continent, the same year that Cabot, the son of a Venetian pilot residmg at Bristol, discovered Newfoundland, and named it Prima Vista ; the year also (or, as some say, the year before), that Amerigo Vespucci, a Florentine in the service of Spain, and subsequently of Portugal, and again of Spain, reached the east coast, and was fortunate in giving his name to the entire of the con- tinent, north and south. The Bahamas were not known to the Enghsh for nearly 200 years (1667) after the discovery by Columbus, when Captain Seyle was nearly wrecked there while proceeding to Carolina, also discovered by Cabot in 1500. The Bahamas were long infested by pirates ; but in 1718 Captain Rogers expelled them, and the islands became and have since re- mained the property of the Crown of England, with the consent of Spain, though the British had had a settlement there long previously. 10 INTHODtrCTIOX. demonstrate how very different a state of things prevailed at the close of the fifteenth century. The mere existence of a western continent was a phantasy of dream-land, when the mysteries of that mighty waste of waters which separated the then known world from all beyond, was shrouded in obscurity as unfathomable as its deepest depths ; when only frail barks and mariners who dreaded to lose sight of the land could be found to attempt the seemingly- desperate fate of exploring an unknown sea in search of what at best existed but in the imagination of those who were re- garded as visionaries, and whose presumptuous rashness the very winds themselves seemed to rebuke by blowing with unprecedented constancy in the one direction, as if to proclaim the impossibility of return.* Taking these circumstances into our consideration, a most thrilling interest is attached to this recital that will endure to the latest posterity ; and school-boys for generations to come • will ponder over the amazing achievements of these wondrous knights-errant of the main with the same eager curiosity as the grown men of to-day. x On the other hand, it must be as readily conceded that there is something painfully oppressive in the records of ancient history, with its never-ending conflict between nations for the aggrandisement of a few ambitious monarchs or republican leaders, in which the destruction of cities, towns, and countries, as well as of the lives of their inhabitants, is the theme per- petually dwelt upon, as if the annihilation of his kind were the only achievement entithng man to the admiration of humanity. War in all its horrors, and the mihtary extirpation of our species, is the dehght of the classic chroniclers, whether in poetry or * He turned ; but «-hat strange thoughts perplexed his soul, When, lo ! no more atti-acted to the Pole, The Compass, faithless to the ciixling Vane, Fluttered and fixed, fluttered and iixed again! At lengtli, as by some unseen Hand imprest, It sought, with trembling energj-, the West ! 'Ah, no!' he cried, and calmed his anxious brow; ' 111, nor the signs of ill, 'tis Thine to show; Thine but to lead me where I ^\Tslied to go!' TloGF.ns" Coi,uMiii>.. INTRODUCTION. 11 prose ; and its accompaniments of battles, sieges, pillage, murder, and atrocities such as nature revolts at, are depicted with a species of barbaric satisfaction, calculated (as it no doubt often did) to evoke the vengeance of the Deity against enormities per- petrated in the mere wantonness of licentious ferocity, and too frequently lacking the miserable palliative of provocation. In- finitely is it to be deplored that this sanguinary animus was carried, in a large degree, by the Spaniards and Portuguese, but probably still more by the Dutch (with whom, however, we are not now concerned), into their conquests in the New World ; but it brought with it its own retributive punishment ; and finally, under Providence, became the most potent instrument that caused war to be looked upon as an enormous evil, and a curse upon any country unrighteously practising it. To the discovery of the New World we may fairly trace the benign effects of that wholesome correction of a most pernicious estimate of human merit. This, gradually' softening the minds of men, instilled the principle of commercial intercourse amongst nations ; demonstrating how much more conducive to true great- ness and human happiness is the cultivation of amicable relations than even the most successful aggression and devastation, and the acquisition of wealth by iniquitous appliances. It was in the year 1492 that Columbus landed on one of the West India islands. (See ante, page 8.) Subsequently, what is now termed the Spanish Main was crossed in rapid succession by various Peninsular adventurers, one and all of whom were dis- tinguished by bravery the most exalted and selfishness the most abased, each attribute being inflamed by a fanaticism that sought to honour God and appease His anger towards their iniquities, by incredible offences in the name of religion against the un- offending aborigines. Preeminent, perhaps, among these bold bad captains, on the score of political prescience, military skill, and administrative civil ability, as well as from the magnitude of his acquisitions, was Hernan Cortez, who, in 1521, conquered the table land of Mexico, its coasts being discovered some three 1 2 INTRODUt'TION. years before.* The immensity and enormity of his massacres, and the perfidy that distinguished them — the ingenuity of his multitudinous outrages upon the Emperor Montezuma and scores * Though his scope embraces no part of the West Coast, nor any portion of the East Coast beyond the line, the author hopes, by the introduction of a few of the more prominent facts connected with each republic, to render this volume somewhat useful to those of his readers who may be desirous of a slight precis of the history and position of the various states of South America, but who would, nevertheless, be deterred from entering upon details of feuds and complications more unintelligibly perplexing than the records of the dynastic chaos of the Saxon heptarchy, or the septic entanglements of the earliest Celtic kings. To this end, therefore, there wiU be appended a note , on each of the outlying districts, if we may so call them, as they occur in the text ; and first in the foregoing order comes MEXICO. — After the usual experience of viceregal misrule, common to all the Spanish transmarine dependencies, this noble province tlu-ew off the yoke and asserted its independence in 1820, and virtually achieved it about a yeai' aftei-wards, principally through Iturbide, a Spanish soldier of great valour and military skill, and who might probably have done for the land of his adoption what Washington had effected for the United States. Unlike that great character, however, he abused for his own seMslmess the power he acquii'ed ; and, not content with bemg head of the state as regent on behalf of the people, he perfdiously caused himself to be proclaimed emperor, in 1822, and im- perial revenues and honours to be decreed to liimself and to liis family. These measures, with many others of a like kind, produced such general defection, that he assembled the dispersed members of Congi-ess in the capital, in 1823, and abdicated, agreeing to reside for the remainder of his life in Italy, on wliich condition a large allowance was made him. But, faithless to Ms word in this instance, as before, he returned from Leghorn, through England, attempted a revolution, miserably failed in raising any followers, and was ignominiously shot, at Padilla, in Santander, by La Gai'za, com- mander of that province, pm-suant to instructions from the provincial legis- lature, in 1824. Vittoria, one of the ablest lieutenants of Iturbide in the war of independence, had been proclamied president the year before ; and the year after ('25) a treaty of commerce was ratified with Great Britain. Such proceedings, with the recognition that was soon to follow of the independence of the revolted country, had formed a topic of urgent interest at the Congress of Verona, in 1822, when, seeing what was looming iii the future of South America, the Duke of Wellington, plenipotentiary from England, instructed by Mr. Canning, in continuation of the policy of Lord Castlereagh, to whom the Duke had just succeeded, presented a note, stating, that ' The connection subsistmg between the subjects of his Britauic IMajesty and the other parts of the globe has for long rendered it necessary for him to recognise the exist- ence, de facia, of governments formed in difterent places, so fai- as Wits neces- sary to conclude treaties with them. The relaxation of the authoritv of INTRODUCTION. 13 of thousands of his subjects — have rendered his name indelibly- detestable, though there were many traits of true heroism about him, beyond what their biographers have been able to preserve Spain in lier colonies of South America has given rise to a host of pirates and adventurers, — an insupportable evil, which it is impossible for England to extirpate vfithout the aid of the local authorities occupying the adjacent coasts and harbours ; and the necessity of this cooperation cannot but lead to the recognition, de facto, of a number of governments of their own creation.' Austria, Russia, Prussia, and Prance (represented by M. de Chateau- briand), diplomatically ignored this overture to humiliate their royal brother of Spain by admitting that which they were soon afterwards compelled, for their own sakes, to acquiesce in. All the efforts of the successor of Ferdinand and Isabella ignominiously failed to win back or retain any portion of the glorious inheritance of the throne of the Indies. A vast expedition, sent against Mexico, surrendered to the now successful revolutionists in 1829, a few months after the expulsion of the Spaniards had been decreed. Unfortunately, however, democratic anarchy soon supervened upon monarchic despotism ; for hardly was the old tyranny got rid of, than Guerrero, the president, was deposed ; and Mexico has since been but another word for whatever is most unwise in foreign policy or most pernicious in domestic administi'ation. In 1838 war was declared against France, and of course, ended in disaster to Mexico, after five months' duration, the most memorable incidents being the capture of the strong fortress of St. Jean d'UEoa, by Prince JoinvUle, who greatly distinguished himself ; and the brave defence of Vera Cruz, by Santa Anna, who there lost a leg. This soldier of fortune, something of the stamp of Rosas, having been repeatedly elected to supreme power, deposed, exiled, impi'isoned, and restored, is once more president, with what prospect of con- tinuance it is impossible to teU. Neither misfortune, nor experience of the impolicy of excessive severity, seems to have mitigated the innate ferocity of the man's character. With a defiance of opinion more in consonance with the era of the Borgias than of constitutional government, or even of a civilized government in the middle of the 19th century, only as late as November last the Dictator caused death to be inflicted, by shooting, without the pretext of a trial, and as though they were the veriest wild beasts, on Senhor Tornel, formerly President Arista's Minister of War, and Senhor de la Rosa, who was minister for foreign affairs immediately after the capi- tulation of the city of Mexico, and was the immediate instigator of Santa Anna's expulsion from the country on that occasion, being also the writer of the letter officially informing him of his disgi-ace. Their offence was, simply, being obnoxious to the dictator — nothing more. Like Rosas, however, he has evinced more consideration for the foreign creditor than might have been expected ; and about the period of the barbarity just named, devoted a, con- siderable sum in liquidation of the more pressing of these demands, his ability to do so arising, it was said, (though the authority is as apocryphal as the circumstance itself) from a donation by the pope, as an equivalent for 14 INTRODrCTIOX. of his invading cotemporary destroyers on the same scene. As was the case, too, with so many of them, his fruit in the end proved but bitterness and ashes ; for though the vast enrichment of the revenues of Spain, through his means, extorted from an ungrateful sovereign a marquisate, and the grant of a portion of the territories he had conquered, he died at home, the object the restoration of the order of the Jesuits in Mexico. Others say that his funds have accrued from a sale to the United States of territory adjoining the present CaUfomian possessions of the Union ; and that, with the proceeds, he means to repeat Iturbide's experiment in imperial power and title. Be this as it may, the area of Santa Anna's sway, is much less now than it was formerly ; for, owing to a succession of decisive repulses sustained from the United States, with which war was declared in 1846, and carried on till the beginning of 1848, Mexico has lost California ; Texas having been aimexed to the States in 1846 ; Yucatan, &c., having also seceded ; and now, of the once prodigious territory of the Montezumas, and known in Spanish colonial history as the vice- royalty of Mexico, there remains, according to the treaty of 1848, but the comparatively narrow strip of land between the Gulf of Jlexico and the Pacific. This, though only a fragment of what it once belonged to, is still most rich in minerals, and most fruitful in valuable products, and highly im- portant from its position ; but nearly all its natural advantages are destroyed by the insecurity and deficiencies of its political institutions, and the in- capacity and selfishness of tliose administering- them among a very numerous population, equal, at least, to that of Scotland, after aU the curtailments we have spoken of. It is needless to acquaint any reader of the public jouraals, to whom the words ' Mexican Bondholders ' must be a ' horrid, hideous sound of woe, sadder than owl-songs on the midnight blast,' that the finances of the state are in a condition the reverse of consolatory to creditors. For the precise nature of those obligations, in whose fulfilment England is so much interested, we must refer to the very numerous pamphlets published by the various committees appointed in London to advise upon this intricate and unsatisfactory subject. That there is every desii-e on Santa Anna's part to meet English liabilities, there can be no doubt ; one motive for his anxietv being, it is said, the achievement of a stock-jobbing coup on his o-wai account, or, rather, on account of the adventurers he is suiTOunded by. If internal peace could only be secured, the vast resoui-ces of the country, and its unpara- goned geographical position, midway, as it were, in the very path of the commerce of both hemispheres, would soon permit of its financial difficulties being adjusted. The question is, whether Santa Anna, in putting down anarchy — if he can keep it down — ^wiU not commit excesses as bad as the revolutipnists in an opposite direction? The latter is the tendency of liis acts at the present ; but it is impossible to predicate of such ;l country what may or may not turn up from one hour to another. The representative of Mexico, hitherto charged, until lately, witli tlie difficult task of negociating in this INTRODUCTION. 15 of courtly suspicion and distrust ; stung to death by mortification, that all his achievements had been productive of coldness and neglect ; where he had most expected to meet with eulogium and honour, he found, like Columbus, (says the eloquent historian of his conquests) that it was possible to deserve too greatly.* country with the English creditors, has been Colonel Facio. The Mexican (liplomatie staff in London consists of Senhor de Castillo y Lanzas, 10, Park- place, Regent's -park, envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary ; Don Aiigustin A. Franco, first secretary; Don Jose Hidalgo, 2nd secretary; Don Ignacio Luijano, attache; Don B. G. Farias, 32, Great Winchester- street, vice-consul. Though Consuls were sent, for commercial purposes, to nearly aU the important ports of the new South American states, as early as October, 1823, it was not for several years afterwards that political or diplomatic representatives were despatched. The first was Mi'. Alexander Cockburn, as envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary to Columbia, February, 1826 ; second. Sir R. Ker Porter, charge d'affaires to Venezuela, July, 1835 ; third, Mr. Turner, envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary to New Granada, June, 1837 ; and fom-th, Mr. W. Wilson, charge d'affaires to Bolivia, 1837. These states will be severally noticed as they occur in the text. It was in March, 1835, that Sir Richard Pakenham, now British Minister in Portugal [see Lisbon] was accredited as plenipotentiary to Mexico. At present the same post is fiUed by Mr. Percy William Doyle (many years charge d'affaires there) whose salary is £3,600, with £400 a-year house rent ; secretary of legation, William Edward Thornton, salary, £600 ; paid attache, Mr. A. H. Hastings Berkeley, salary ,'£200 ; and an unpaid attache. The annexed list exhibits the names and salaries of the British consular corps in Mexico : — Mexico, F. Glennie, consul, £400 ; Vera Cruz, F. Giffard, con- sul, £500 ; Tampico, consul, Clelaiid Oumberlege, £500 ; San Bias, Eustace W. Barron, consul, £300 ; Mazatlan, S. Thomson, vice-consul, £150 ; Aca- pulco, Charles Wilthew, consul, £400. * In the month of February, 1554, lie addi'essed a long letter to the emperor, — it was the la.st he ever wrote him, — soliciting his attention to Ms suit. He begins, by proudly alluding to his past services to the Crown : ' He had hoped, that the toils of youth would have secured him repose in his old age. For forty years he had passed liis life with little sleep, had food, and with his arms constantly by his side. He had freely exposed his person to peril, and spent his substance in exploring distant and unknown regions, that he miglit spread abroad the name of his sovereign, and bring under Iiis sceptre many great and powerful nations. All this he had done, not only without assistance from home, but in the face of obstacles thrown in his way by rivals and by enemies, who thirsted like leeches for his blood. He was now old, infirm, and embarrassed with debt. Better had it been for him not to have known the liberal intentions of the emperor, as intimated by his grants ; since he should then have devoted himself to the care of his estates, and not have been compelled, as he now was, to contend with the officers of the Crown, against whom it was more diiBcult to defend himself than to win the land from the enemy.' He concludes with beseeching his sovereign to ' order the Council of the Indies, with the other tribunals which had cognisance of his suite, to come to a decision ; 16 INTRODUCTION. Passing next to him before whose golden sun the star of Cortez waned, we find that the ruthless valour and iron per- severance of Pizarro subjugated Peru* in 1531; while one of his since he was too old to wander about like a, vagrant, but ought, rather,during the brief remainder of his life, to stay at home and settle his account with Heaven, occupied with the concerns of his soul, rather than with his substance.' This appeal to his sovereign, which has something in it touching from a man of the haughty spirit of Cortez, had not the effect to quicken the determination of his suit. • He still lingered at the court, from week to week, and from month to month, beguiled by the deceitful hopes of the litigant, tasting all that bitterness of the soul which arises from hope deferred. After three years more, passed in this unprofitable and humiliating occupation, he resolved to leave his ungrateful country and return to Mexico. He had proceeded as far as Seville, accom- panied by his son, when he fell ill of an indigestion, caused, probably, by irritation and trouble of mind. This terminated in dysentery, and his strength sank so rapidly under the disease, that it was apparent his mortal career was drawing towards its close. — Prescott. * PERU. — RefeiTiBg towhat has been already said as regards Mexico for a general notion of the relationship between Spain and her colonies, when the spirit of revolt began to develope itself in the latter, it is only necessary to add here that, since its emancipation, Peru has, like all the congeries of republics of which it forms one, been a prey to civil dissension and military turmoil. Of late years its uicreasing commerce, the vast pecuniary means it has dis- covered, in its guano islands, of meeting its engagements with the European creditor, and the comparatively pacific spirit that prevails in its councils and in those of the neighbouring states, are producing their natural results ; and, despite occasional exceptions, there is every reason to look for a prosperous future. The conquest of Peru having been effected with infinitely more ease than that of Mexico, as far as the mere military resistance of the natives was concerned, it continued for nearly 300 years subject to Spain, and formed its last stronghold in that quarter of the world. The history of the struggles for independence, from the time that the first Protector, San Martin, [see Chili, page 18] entered the country with the combined Chilian and Buenos Ayrean army, and proclaimed its freedom at Lima, the capital, in 1821, till the Spaniards were finally expelled, would embrace the biography of the commander just named, and the stUl more celebrated one, Bolivar, who, with his victorious troops from Columbia, to which he had given liberty in 1821, mainly contributed to the liberation of Peru, whereof he became President in 1825, San Martin retiring in 1822, with these memorable words : — ' I have proclaimed the independence of Chili and Peru ; I have taken the standard with which Pizarro came to enslave the empire of the Inoas ; and I have ceased to be a public man.' Bolivar ran through pretty much the same vicissitudes of popu- lar caprice as we have recounted in the case of Santa Anna, though an incomparably superior character in every respect ; and, after numberless feuds, and escaping plots against his life by those he had raised to power, was on the point of returmng from voluntary seclusion, on his patrimonial estate, to assume once more the direction of affairs, in obedience to the voice of the public, who, too late, found out that lie was the only man for the occasion, INTRODUCTION. 17 followers, who most resembled him in ii^e cruelty of his life, as he did in the untimeliness of his death (caused by a quarrel with his old master about the spoil), after the seeming consum- when he died in 1830, in his 47th year, leaving behind the highest reputation which South American liistory has afforded, not only as a commander and an administrator, hut as a constitutional legislator. Repeated revolutions have since ensued, partly caused by rivalries of internal factions, and partly by the hostilities of neighbouring states, whicli, being themselves torn with dissen- sion, and constantly changing then- territorial status, have rendered war upon Peru, or on the part of Peru, almost unavoidable. This is -the case at present ; Bolivia, under its President, Belzu, having invaded Peru, and protracted hostilities being certain. Under such circumstances it is hardly necessary to add, that the finances of the country have been inadequate to its expenditure, and that, consequently, the foreign creditors have fared exceedingly 01. Of late, however, the prospects have greatly improved, owing to the immense demand for that peculiar manure which is found in the condition most approved by agricultm'ists on the Peruvian coast, and in the next greatest perfection on the neighbouring coast of Chili, whence, indeed, the first cargo, which created so much interest, was brought a few years back into Liverpool, causing small observation, however, for a long time. But, unluckily for the foreign creditor and the true interests of the Peruvian government, the latter fixed so high a price on the commodity, as to create a complete monopoly, attended with most of the mischiefs of which aU monopolies are the parents. Until the close of the last year, it was imagined that the supply of this most essential ingi-edient in farm- ing economy was literally inexhaustible, and that the cost to the consumer might be kept up at the original excessive rate. About that period, however, it was ascertained, through a survey instituted by Admiral Moresby, com- mandiug the British squadron on the West Coast, that at the then rate of demand (and it has gone on increasing since) the whole stock (many millions of tons though it was) would be exhausted in the course of about twenty years. Moreover, as the discovery, first, of the unique virtues of guano, and, secondly, of its deposit in the finest known quality and greatest quantity here, were purely accidental, it is not improbable, indeed is regarded as certain, that there will also be discoveries of other excellent fertilizers of a like kind, and of other vast deposits of guano, if not quite so excellent, yet sufficiently BO to deprive Peru of its principal customers at existing rates. Should cither of these occurrences take place — should it be found, as Lord Clarendon anti- cipated, in answer to a deputation on the subject, that nitrate of soda is extractable from the immense heaps of fish refuse on the Newfoundland coast, and will supply, as chemists believe, the fructifying element of guano ; or should it be found that those deposits of guano in more damp latitudes, — the Palklands, for instance — will admit of being profitably freed from the effects of moisture, of course the value of the Peruvian commodity will decline accordingly, and so will the prospects oi^ the bondholders, who have 18 INTRODUCTION. mation of his ambition — Diego Almagro — having committed horrors till then almost unheard of, over-ran Chili* in 1635. probably been amongst the greatest of all the sufferers from the mala fides and impoverishment of South American debtors. A species of new bonds have recently been created, to the great detriment of the interest of the holders of the old ones, and the dissatisfaction is extreme, especially as the government, instead of being warned by the facts vre have recounted in respect to guano, and by the discovery of valuable guano islands by North American citizens in the Carribean Sea, have actually advanced the price of the commodity to the extent of the recently enhanced freights, as compared with the usual rates of shipping charges. Apart from the monetary, the diplomatic credit of Peru has always been respectably sustained at the Court of St. James's. The corps at present consists of Don Manuel de Mendiburu, minister plenipotentiary ; Don Fran- cisco de Rivero, consul-general, 78, Grosvenor-street, Grosvenor-square ; Don Emilio Altheus, D. M. Espantosa, and Major D. S. Osma, attaches. Consul's- oflRce, 6, Copthall-court. Consuls — J. E. Naylor, Liverpool ; R. J. Todd, Cardiff ; John G. Dodd, Newcastle-upon-Tyne ; Edward "Wright, Dublin. England is represented in Peru by Mr. S. H. Sullivan, charge d'affaires at Lima; salaiyas such £1,700 a-year, besides the usual- £1 per diem allowed to all functionaries of that class discharging consular duties. Until last year (1853) the diplomatic salary was £2,000. At Callao, the port of Lima, the salary of the consul (Mr. J. Barton) has also been reduced from £500 to £200, but the fees of office still make the post very lucrative. At Islay, the vice-consul, Mr. T. Crompton, receives £500 ; and at Arica and Payta, Mr. Vt. H. Nugent and Mr. Alexander Blacker, vice-consuls, £300 and £100 respecti\ely. * CHILI. — Though probably none of the Spanish conquests in South America were effected with greater ease than that of Chili — a sort of dependency on the Incas of Peru, and faithful to then- cause long after it was lost at head- quarters — nowhere were the natives impressed so much at first with the supe- riority of the invincible stranger, a sum equivalent to half a million of ducats being presented to Almagro, in recognition of his ' divinity ' when he crossed the Cordilleras ; yet none of their acquisitions, subsequently, cost the con- querors more trouble. Notwithstanding the scandalous cruelties of the in- vaders, it was not till 1646, ten years after Valdivia (a second lieutenant of Pizarro's) had entered their country, that resistance was wholly put down. The Chilians, the last in being subdued, were also among the first to take advantage of the troubles of the mother country in her decrepitude and decline. On the invasion of Spain by the French, and the rout of the Spanish Bourbons m 1809, Chili, aff'ecting to be solicitous for the sovereignty of Ferdmand VII., and to be desirous of administering the government of itself m his name, established a junta in the capital, St. Jago, in 1810, and ulti- mately avowed itself a decided separatist. Spain, however, was still able to make head against the i-evolutionists ; and after a series of encounters, in INTRODUCTION. 19 He exterminated the family of Atahualpa, the last of the Incas, in a mode which only the most hardened familiars of the In- quisition, in the mother country, could read of without emotion ; and to this day the records of such revolting transactions con- stitute probably the foulest blot on the Columbian escutcheon of the country of Du Guesclin and the Cid. But the sins of these men may be said to have been avenged by heaven in the noon of their iniquities. Pizarro, having defeated Almagro at Cuzco, which fortune alternated rapidly, she vindicated her authority by a very decisive victory at Rancagua, in 1817. This, however, did not prevent the popular party triumphing at Chacabuco, in the same year, and seizing on the capital. Again the king's troops succeeded at Chancarayada ; but, once more, and conclusively, the republicans carried all before them in the eventful battle of Maypu, in 1818, though it was not till the beginning of 1826 that the province was finally freed from the presence of the peninsular cohorts, and declared independent, the old country itself, however, refusing any such recognition till 1842, when a, treaty of peace and friendship was signed at Madrid, and ratifications exchanged in 1845. Throughout these wars the most conspicuous revolutionary leader was General San Martin, a soldier of Irish origin, as his name imports,* being one of the many of his coun- trymen whom the struggles for independence brought forward in the Spanish colonies, in none more so than in Chili, the first Supreme Director, as the oflicer elected by the juntas was originally called, being Barnardo O'Higgins, with whom were associated Col. O'Leary, General Miller, and numerous others 'racy of the soU' of saints and shillelaghs. Of all the Eurojiean celebrities, however, who figured on the stage of South American strife, none are to be compared to the heroic Lord Cochrane, now the venerable Admiral Earl Dun- donald, who, having fitted out a ship of his own in England in the cause of the patriots, and being appointed to the command of the Chilian fleet, co- operating with the land forces of Bolivar, displayed that characteristic skill and enterprise which have so preeminently distinguished him throughout his * Hls aid-de-camp was General John O'Brien, afterwards accredited by the Banda Oriental, or State of the Uruguay, as diplomatic representative to England, where he contributed greatly to familiarise the British public with the bearings of the Plate Question, and to popularise the cause of Monte Videan resistance to the aggression of Rosas. In this object he was essentially assisted by his learned and accomplished countryman, Mr. W. Bernard Macabe, a distinguished London journalist, and well- known author in historical and miscellaneoiis literature, who discharged the duties of acting consul-general for the Uruguay in London for some years, till the end of 1852, when he proceeded to Dublin, where he has since prosecuted his intellectual ayocations with his customary assiduity and success. The General, we believe, is now residing in honoured retirement, in bis old age, in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, on a property allowed him by the Government of Chili, to whose original independence his exertions materially contributed. V. 2 20 INTRODrCTION. .and put many of his officers to death, in cold blood, had his old comrade strangled and then beheaded in Lima, where the despot himself was assassinated by young Almagro, who, in his turn, being defeated in battle, also at Cuzco, by Vaca de Castro, was likewise put to death by decapitation. Passing next to the Portuguese discoveries, that of Brazil was effected by Alvarez de Cabral, he having landed, by accident, through stress of weather, at Porto Seguro, on the 24th of April, 1500, calling the country Santa Cruz (Holy Cross) in gratitude for his delivery from shipwreck ; but the appellation was after- wards altered to that which it at present bears, signifying red- wood, the well-known substance famihar to us as Brazil wood ; yet it was the subsequent exploration of this coast, some four years afterwards, that enabled Amerigo Vespncci to eternise his own name as the accepted discoverer of the continent itself. chivalrous and romantic career, some few incidents of which will be found mentioned in our notice of a congenial and no less heroic spiiit. Admiral Gren- fell, of the Brazilian service, in which Dundonald played a conspicuous part. Fi-om what we have said already, both of Mexico and also of Peru, it will naturally be inferred that Ohili has suffered greatly from internal disorders ; but, unlike those countries, she has contrived to avoid a very onerous national debt ; and consequently her credit abroad is comparatively very good ; indeed, better probably than that of any South American state, save Brazil, whose secui'ities rank next to those of Great Britain itself. The recent gold discoveries in California and Australia have immensely increased her export trade, and will continue to do so for an indefinite period ; while a large source of domestic revenue has been opened up by the possession of guano islands (of which more hereafter), second only in extent," and scarcely second in rich- ness, to those treasures of a like kind whereof we have spoken under the head of Peru, the example of which country is followed as to the maintenance of the price of the article at an exorbitant rate. The Chilian diplomatic and consular corps in England consists of Spencer N. Dickson, consul, 8, Great Winchester-street, London ; W. W. Alexander, consul, Bristol, Cardiff, and Newport ; William Jackson, consul, Liverpool ; Thomas W. Fox, jun., consul, Plymouth ; James H. Wolff, consul, South- ampton; John W. Leach, consul, Swansea. The British diplomatic and consular corps in Chili consists of the Hon. E. J. Harris, charge d'affaires at the capital, St. Jago, salary £1,600, and the usual consular allowance of £1 per diem; consul at Valparaiso, Mr. Henry Rouse, salary £300, reduced from £700 ; consul at Coquimbo, Mr. David Ross, salary £300 ; and vice-consul pt Conception, Mr. Robert Cunningham, salary £250 — all exclusive of fees. INTRODUCTION. 21 Another instance of the vagaries and mutations of geographi- cal nomenclature, in this region of the world, occurs in connection with the great achievement that next sohcits our notice, viz., the doubling of the Cape, and consequent opening-up of an oceanic highway to India. This was second in importance only to the discovery of the New World itself, and, indeed, well nigh placed Portugal on a par with Spain in honorary maritime status. Vasco de Gama, whose exploits inspired the muse of Camoens in the Lusiad,* which noble poem is in a great measure only a ryth- metical narrative of the perils of the navigator, ' made the Cape' November 20th, 1497 ; and, with the expressiveness of all the earlier mariners, named it the ' Cape of Tempests,' I and it was afterwards known as the ' Lion of the Sea,' and the ' Head of * The subject of this poem is the establishment of the Portuguese empire in India ; but whatever of chivalrous, great, beautiful, or noble, could be gathered from the tradi- tions of his country, has been interwoven into the story. Among all the heroic poets, says Schlegel, either of ancient or modern times, there has never, since Homer, been any one so intensely national, or so loved or honoured by his countrymen, as Camoens. It seems as if the national feelings of the Portuguese had centred and reposed themselves in the person of this poet, whom they consider as worthy to supply the place of a whole host of poets, and as being in himself a complete literature to his country. Of Camoens they say, Vertere fas ; jequare nefas ; sequabilis uni Est sibi ; par nemo ; nemo secundus erit. Few modern poems in any language, have been so frequently translated as the ' Lusiad.'- Mr. Adamsou, whose ' Memoirs of the Life and Writings of Camoens ' must be familiar to the reader, notices one Hebrew translation of it, five Latin, six Spanish, four Italian, three French, four German, and two English. Of the two English versions one is that of Sir R. Fanshawe, written during Cromwell's usurpation, and distinguished for its fidelity to the original ; the other is that of Mickle, who, unlike the former, took great liberties with the original, but whose additions and alterations have met with great approbation from all critics — except, as indeed was to be expected, from the Portuguese themselves. — Dr. Cauvin. — In the course of the present year (1864) another English version, from the pen of Sir Thomas Mitchell, Surveyor-General of New South Wales, and formerly on the staff in the Peninsula, has been issued by Messrs. Boone, of Bond- street, in one volume, with an engraving, said to be an excellent likeness, of the poet. f ' Eu sou aquelle occulto, e grande Cabo, A quem chamais vos outros Tormentario ; Que nunca a Ptolemeo, Pomponio, Estrabo, Plinio, e quantos passaram, foi notorio : Aqui toda a Africana Costa acabo Neate men nunca visto promentorio. Que para o polo Antartico se estende, A quem vossa ousadia tanto offende.' Camoens, canto 5, verse 50. 22 INTRODUCTION. Africa.' These designations were different indeed to that it has long rejoiced in — the ' Cape of Good Hope' — so called by JoTin the Second of Portugal, who drew a favourable augury of future discoveries thence, because of his adventurous subject, Diaz, having reached the extremity of Africa, at that point, though in doing so, he perished there in 1500, having divided with Gama the honour of being its original discoverer, and supposed by some to have preceded him by nearly ten years. Previous, however, to this latter occurrence, even if we accept the earliest date claimed for Diaz, mankind was amazed by reports of the cir- cumnavigation of the globe — a feat, which, like those already named, has been a fruitful source of controversy as to the just recipient of the meed of priority. Sebastian de Elcano is, perhaps, the most generally accepted by foreign writers. Goralva and Alvalradi, both Spaniards, performed the task — astounding, indeed, when we think of the fragile craft employed, and the unknown courses ventured upon — in one and the same year, 1537, without concert with each other. Mendana, another Spaniard, repeated it in 1567 — ^preceding our own immortal sovereign of the seas, Drake, by ten years. But long anterior to all these, was the Portuguese Magellan, who, in 1519, being in the service of Spain, determined the sphericity of the earth by keeping a westerly course through the straits bearing his name, across the Pacific, and retm-ning to the spot he set out from, or rather the ship did, for he was killed at the Philippines, on his passage back, the whole voyage occupying three years ' In me the spirit of the Cape behold, That Eocli by you the Cape of Torments named, By Neptune's rage m horrid Earthquake framed, Where Jove's red bolts o'er Titan's offspring flamed. AVith Tvide-stretch'd piles I guard the pathless strand, And Afr ic's southern mound unmoved I stand ; Nor Koman prow, nor daring Tyrian oar, 'Ere dashed the white wave foaming to my shore ; Nor Greece, nor Carthage, ever spread.the sail On these my seas to catch the trading gale. You, you alone, have dared to plough my main, And with the human voice disturb my lonesome reign.' Mickle's Translation of tliis verse, the ' Lusiad,' p. L'05. INTBODUCTION. 23 and twenty-nine days.* These, and a series of marvels, only subordinate in wonder because inferior in importance, kept the western world in unflagging excitement for a long succession of * STEAM THROUGH THE STRAITS OP MAGELLAN TO THE PACIFIC — In a work like this, almost specially deroted to an exemplifica- tion of the achievements and the prospects of steam enterprise in South America, we take the earliest opportunity of placing on record the efforts of a gentleman, who, in those distant waters first explored by Magellan, and through the very straits named after that daring navigator, conducted a steamer to the West Coast long before the Royal Mail Company, as mentioned in our prefatory remarks, sent any of their paddle-wheels to the East Coast. The first steamers that ever navigated these straits were the Peru and Chili, belonging to the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, under the orders of Captain George Peacock, a gentleman well known in coiinection with naval steam tactics, now superintendent of the Southampton docks, and vice-consul for the Uruguay at that port. Leaving England in. command of the Peru, in July, 1840, and touching only at Rio de Janeho for a supply of fuel, he anchored in Port Famine, Patagonia, on the 13th of September, after a pas- sage at sea of only 43 days. These vessels, built by Messrs. Curling and Young, of ]!iimehouse, were contracted and fitted out with great care, under the superintendence of Captain Peacock, being aLso rigged on a new plan pro- posed by him, whereby they were enabled to proceed under sail alone during a great part of the voyage, the steam only having been used for 21 out of the 43 days occupied between Plymouth and Port Famine. This was an unpre- cedented feat in the annals of steam navigation up to that pei'iod, and has scarcely been surpassed since, as these vessels carried out a large amount of general cargo to Valparaiso, besides their spare machinery, and a great quan- tity of stores, proving the importance of all steamships for long voyages, whether screw or paddle-wheel, being fully and properly rigged. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company was projected in 1833 by William Wheelwright, Esq., an enterprising American gentleman, who had passed many years on the West Coast of South America, and who obtained exclusive privileges, from the Chilian and Peruvian governments, for establishing steam in the Pacific, pro- vided steamers were placed on the coast within a given period. On Mr. Wheelwright's arrival in England he found gi-eat difficulty in forming a com- pany, although no one doubted but that the navigation and requirements of the West Coast were, perhaps, better adapted for steam navigation than any other spot on the face of the globe. Unfortunately for the projector, the ex- treme pressure of the money-market at that time, coupled with the distance of the intended scene of operations, the want of confidence in the grants of Soutli American states, and the political changes to which they were exposed, all conduced to impede the enterprise ; and, after passing upwards of three years of untiring patience and suffering, nuraberle-ss anxieties, heart-sickening vexa- tions, and even personal privations (the fate of too many entei'prising men in the prosecution of new and useful projects), aud when his capital was nigh 24 ISTRODUCTION. years, during Avhich Europe tingled with the tidings of vast countries being discovered, assailed, and captured, by mere hand- Ms of obscure fortune-hunters, and yielding up such exhaustless wrecked, and his favourite scheme about to be abandoned as hopeless, he had the good fortune to meet with the late Lord Abinger, who, together mth the noble members of the Scarlett family, warmly espoused the undertaking, and with the aid of other kind triends, the company was at length formed, and, towards the close of the year 1839, two vessels, of 750 tons aad 180 horse power each, were contracted for. The keels were laid Jan., 1840, and the ships bralt, launched, fitted out, and sent to sea in July, within a period of seven months, no expense being spared to effect this object, with a view of saving the privileges to be conceded by the Chilian government. This proved to be impracticable, notwithstanding the extraordinary exer- tions that had been made, owing to the vexatious annoyances of the port authorities at Rio de Janeiro, who exacted such stringent regulations and created such difBcidties, that the steamers were delayed fourteen days, where 48 hours would have sufficed. The fine harbour of Port Stanley, at the Falkland Islands, was not then kno^Ti to possess the facilities it now does for such repaii's, nor were there at the time the necessary means of effecting them ; otherwise Captain Peacock, who has the highest opinion of that har- bour, and has urged it as a port of call and for coaling on the captains of all sailing or ateam-vessels coming home from Australia by Cape Horn, would have at once resorted to it, and so saved the almost ruinous delay and vast expense occasioned him at Rio. The consequence of this detention was, that the vessels did not arrive at Port Famine, the southern-most harbom' claimed by the republic of ChUi, imtil the 13th of September, whilst the pri\Tleges, already alluded to, expired on the first of that month. By the 18th of September both ships were completed with wood and water, every man, from the captain downwards, assisting in sawing and splitting up drift-wood, found in abundance along the shores of the harbom-, an American axe having been provided for each person on board, together with cross-cut saws and iron wedges, for such object, before leaving England. This day, being the 'diesiocho,' or great anniversary of the Chilian Independence, Captain Peacock caused a beacon, 30 feet high, with a large diamond-shaped head, to be erected on the heights of Santa Anna, the western point of the entrance ; and, hoisting the Chilian flag upon it at noon, saluted the same from the guns of both ships, accompanied by three hearty British cheers ; and hav- ing buried a parchment manuscript at the foot of the beacon, in a sealed jar, descriptive of this event and the particulars of the voyage, &c., together with a few new coins of the year 1840, the steamers proceeded into the Pacific, accomplishing the passage from ocean to ocean, a distance of 300 miles, in 30 hours' steaming. Four yeai-s subsequently, the Chilian government sent a vessel of war, and took formal possession of this harbour, for a convict esta- blishment, naming it Port Bulnes, after the President at that tune in power, when a fort was built rotmd the before mentioned beacon, the jar was dug up, INTRODUCTION. 25 treasures as rendered the Spanish and Portuguese peninsula, for a prolonged season, the richest kingdoms in the world — the veritable • envy and admiration of surrounding nations.' To all this we may add that momentum given to commerce and navigation which has gone rolling on, until fleets of all nations cover the seas ; and, so far as we are aware at present, not an island now unknown, of any importance, remains to reward the search of him* who has been last commissioned to find one if he can, even in the comparatively and the manuscript, &c., taken to St. Jago, the capital, and there lodged in the government archives. Upon the arrival of the steamers at Valparaiso, by a representation to the government, the privileges of the company were im- mediately renewed for a period of ten years ; and probably nothing has con- tributed so much to the advancement, welfare, and prosperity of the Chilian and Peruvian republics, as the successful establishment of steam navigation upon this coast, where the names of Don Guilliermo Wheelwright and Don Jorje Peacock, will perhaps never be forgotten, as they certainly ought not to be. The Chilian government, in the course of last year, (1853) renewed its relations with the Pacific Company for continuing steam communication with England, through the Straits, and also for extending steam intercourse to other parts of Europe, in connection with the vessels now rounding the Horn, granting liberal subsidies for that purpose. See end of chapter on Amazon. * Captain Denham, R.N., who has been sent on an exploratory cruise in the various Archipelagoes of the Southern Pacific, in hope of meeting with an eligible depot for convicts, whom the cessation of transportation to Australia (or at least to all except the Western portion) has thrown on the hands of the home government, very much to the embarrassment of the executive, and to the consternation of the community ; for, as was foreseen when the project was first mooted, not only do the British public dread the introduction among them of the class known in France as lihres formats, but the former honest associates of these domesticated ' emancipatists,' to use an antipodean phrase, will not consort with them ; hasten to denounce them to their employers as ' black sheep ;' forcibly drive them from amongst them ; and, in fact, surround them with such annoyances that their existence becomes intolerable in the society of any but those who are qualifying for, or have already graduated at, the hulks. The consideration of this subject will be found pursued at some length in treating of the Falklands. These islands are in every way admnably adapted, both to meet the difficulties just mooted, as to the disposal of our felonrie, and to supersede the labour of Capt. Denham, should he even be suc- cessful in discovering a spot in the southern hemisphere that is not open to innumerable objections on the score— 1st, of propinquity to other islands ; 2nd, being at double the distance of the Falklands from the mother country ; and 3rd, the cost of conveyance being proportionably great; saying nothing of the eXpensiveness of founding a new settlement in a place that is already deserted, or from which the aborigines, if any, must be removed. 26 INTRODUCTIOX. little frequented Polynesian group, for the penal purposes of England. I will not dwell on the different results that have attended different courses of action with reference to the conquered terri- tories of North and South America ; nor attempt to trace the decline of one power at the expense of another. Spain and Portugal, unfortunately for themselves, dealt with their gifts on purely selfish principles ; and the consequence of such a system was, not only the loss of the greater part of their colonies, but an almost total estrangement between the parent and child, never afterwards thoroughly healed. We attempted the same game in North America, and the giant-lilie progress of the United States has followed ; only that, wiser in our generation, more forgiving, and actuated by true commercial principles, we have cultivated, to the utmost extent, relations of amity and good-wiU with the new power, and both countries are largely gainers thereby, and will continue to be so while the same feelings of mutual concession and respect actuate both. Whilst, therefore, North America has made such astonishing progress, and completely outstrips the Old World in rapidity of thought and execution, carrying her commerce and people to the limits of the habitable globe, the states to the southward have had many severe ordeals to go through — arising, in the first place, from the cause just mentioned, viz., that the mother countries considered their colonies as mere appanages, and prevented com- munication, in some cases even intercourse, with other nations. Secondly, from the disseverment of the link which united them to Europe, having an entirely new phase to pass through, new forms of government to establish, and fresh relations to cultivate; whilst another immediate effect of the revolution was to drive away most of the wealthy inhabitants who, being Spanish and Por- tuguese citizens, were not a little vain of their superiority in that respect to their colonial-born brethren. This fruitful source of dissent and violence in nearly all the disturbances by which the several states were torn is by no means wholly obliterated to INTRODUCTION. 27 this diiy, any more than in some of the transmarine possessions of Great Britain, in either hemisphere. Then came intestine divisions among the American-born colonists themselves, raging between the upstart leaders of mushroom parties, whose very names it taxed the memory of men at the time to remember ; and, as a matter of course, there followed all the thousand drawbacks resulting from a state of anarchic confusion. Hence, as is obvious must have been the case under such circumstances, material pro- gress has been slow, and political progress for a long time almost imperceptible, if not frequently retrogressive, if one may use a phrase so seemingly contradictory. Moreover, until of late years very little was known of the internal resources of South America, with the exception of the Brazils — a country to which a variety of circumstances conspired to impart an impetus along the groove of civilization and consequent advancement. Paramount amongst those aids was undoubtedly the establishment there, in 1806, of the old Portuguese monarchy, consequent upon the European troubles of the house of Braganza. The inappreciable ad- vantage of this regular form of government, arising out of local monarchic institutions, that country has retained, though under a new sovereign and with a liberalized system of administration, ever since, with every guarantee for continuously rapid but enduring improvement. Still, even Brazil was, to Europeans, comparatively speaking, an unknown region, to which, in incongruous confusion, attached associations of the soft and the savage, of barbarism and luxury, of the majestic and the feeble, in the minds of all nearly whose reading about her was not corrected by personal familiarity ith the country itself. But ignorance so arising is being happily fast dissipated ; and it shall not be the author's fault if its depar- ture be not further expedited on some points to which it still adheres. Both the Spaniards and Portuguese possess works of rare merit, far exceeding in magnitude and minuteness any we can boast of, illustrating the achievements of their early navigators, and the rise and progress of their former colonial possessions. 28 INTRODUCTION. But few of these work:, have been rendered familiar to the British public, and are very imperfectly known, even to those writers who profess to treat of the same or similar subjects. Of course we except Prescott, the appreciation of whose invaluable volumes on the Conquest of Peru, the Conquest of ilexico, and the His- tory of the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, is testijBied by the exhaustion of six large and expensive editions, and one cheaper edition, in this country, besides the incorporation of the fruits of his extraordinary research in a thousand pubhcations ^that have since been issued on either side of the Atlantic . Previously, however, to Prescott, and iii nearly as large a degree, in respect to the ter- ritory described, were we indebted to Southey, for his History of BrazO. ;* to Koster for valuable details of his travels in the nor- thern provinces of the same empire ; and to Gardner, for a most elaborate research into its botanical treasures, as also a graphic description of the interior of the empire, which he traversed from north to south. | The hygiene of the same region has been thoroughly investigated, and its rationale expounded with consum- mate ability and simplicity of style, by my learned and accom- phshed feUow-townsman, Dr, Dundas, than whom no man was more competent for the task ; and I rejoice to see that, though the subject is necessarily of a very circumscribed range, compara- tively speaking, and one not very likely to command public * The History of Brazil — ^his opus mffjus, a work on which he hoped to base the rememhrance of his name — now appeared, the most conspicuous and elaborate of his works, and written con amore. It forms a branch of the more extensive History of Portugal, which he had no leisure to complete. The materials from which this work was constructed had been coUeeted by his uncle, the Rev. Herbert HiU, were unrivalled in value, and accessible to him alone. Xo political bias iuterrupted the straightforwardness and breadth of his judgment ; and his poetic fervour found scope in the character of the cUme, the productions of the soil, and the features of savage life, which he describes in the most glowing colours. — ^Life of Southey, by Charles T. Bro>Tn. — ^London : Chapman and Hall. 1854. t Travels in the Interior of Brazil ; principally through the Xorthem Provinces and the Gold and Diamond Districts, during the vears 1836-41. By the late George Gakdxer, il.D., F.L.S., Superintendent of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Ceylon. — ^London : Reeve and Co. 1853. INTRODUCTION. 29 attention, its treatment was so masterly, that nearly all the pro- fessional journals in the kingdom received it as an important contribution to medical literature.* Its perusal, however, may be also recommended to the general reader as containing notices of Brazilian life and manners and scenery nowhere else to be met with, and which the peculiar facilities enjoyed by the author enabled him to describe with a life-like minuteness whose truth- fulness at once stamps its accuracy both on the stranger at a distance and on the most experienced Brazilian resident or native. In speaking thus, I am merely echoing well-recognized facts ; my opinion, which would of course be utterly valueless in a medical sense, being in no degree warped by the personal obligation Dr. Dundas has placed me under from the circumstance of his having kindly consented to enrich this volume with a special chapter on a theme analogous to that which his ' Sketches ' are devoted to. It is, however, the now patriarchal, or, as he calls himself, 'Ante- ■ diluvian' Humboldt, who has showered upon European understand- ing the light of scientific knowledge concerning the vast South American continent, and his inimitable descriptions of the country and its natural resources have scarcely been appreciated amongst us as they deserve. It is only when confronted with the great fact, so long regarded as the sentimental aspiration of utopiaists, that South America is actually becoming an additional field for our industry and enterprise — when its magnificent fluvial high- ways are about being traversed by an endless succession of steamers, and its plains by railways — that we really discover how infinitesimal is our knowledge of those resources or capabilities to whose development these means can alone effectually conduce. As a medium of forming an estimate of the material position, as * Sketches of Brazil ; including- New Views on Tropical and European Fever. With Remarks on a Premature Decay of the System, incident to Europeans, on their return from Hot Climates. By Robert Dundas, M.D., Physician to the Northern Hospital, Liverpool ; formerly Acting- Surgeon to H.M. 60th Regiment ; and for twenty-three years Medical Superintendent of the British Hospital, Bahia. 8vo., price 9s. — London : John Churchill, Prince's- street, Soho. Liverpool : Deighton and Laughton, and Rockliif and Sons. 30 IXTRODUCTIOX. well as of the natural features of the countries desmbed by him, Humboldt cannot be too highly commended, as the author, of all others, whose flowing narrative, profundity of reflection, and copiousness of illustration — commensurate with the greatness of the subject itself — will amply repay all ordinary curiosity ; apart from that superabounding erudition and scientific afiluence which pervade the whole works of the great living father of historical philosophers, though singularly freed, like the treatises of our own Herschel, from technicalities that repel the uninitiated. As relates to the Rio Plata and its immense tributaries, we have had, in the course of the preceding year, Sir W. Parish's elaborate and excellent volume,* whose only, though it is undoubtedly a great drawback, is, that having been written obviously from inspiration of Rosas, and through the sources that personage opened to him for the purpose at Buenos Ayres, events are recorded in a light entirely in conformity with the views of the Dictator, whose whole past policy is upheld, and his intended plans pro- spectively eulogised in a manner to which subsequent events, and the judgment pronounced upon them, furnish a significant commentary. In harmony with Rosas's principle of representing Buenos Ayres as virtually constituting the whole Argentine Con- federation, and himself as the exponent of public opinion and the embodiment of actual power therein. Sir Woodbine almost altogether ignores the existence of Monte Video, and scarcely alludes to such a state as the Banda Oriental. Hence, as regards the latter province and its capital, and all pertaining to them, Sir Woodbine's book is a blank, or something worse — a deficiency which it is one of the objects of the present volume, in some * Buenos Ayres and the Provinces of the Rio de la Plata : from their Discovery and Conquest by the Spaniards to the EstabKshment of their Political Independence. With some Account of their Present State, Trade, Debt, etc. ; an Appendix of Historical and Statistical Documents ; and a Description of the Geology and Fossil Monsters of the Pampas. By Sir WooDBfNE Pakish, K.C.H., F.R.S., G.S., Vice-President of the Royal Geogi-aphical Society of London, and many years Charge-d'affaires of H.B.M. at Buenos Ayres. Second Edition, enlarged, with a Nev\' Map and Illustrations. — London; John Murray, Albemarle Street. 18.52. INTRODUCTION. 31 degree, to supply. Of the condition of some of the interior proTinces, likewise,- Sir Woodbine, being obliged to take his information, not only at second hand, but through a channel in which every thing was conductive to the one end, that of exalting Rosas, or depreciating his opponents, gives us particulars not merely inaccurate, but leading to conclusions the very reverse of what a true state of the case would warrant. On this head, especially as regards by far the most important of all the interior states — Paraguay— it is hoped that the present volume will be found to contain much new and reliable information. For this, the writer is mainly indebted to notes of observations made on the route to, and during a residence in, Assumption, by parties personally cognizant of the late most successful and important mission sent out by Lord Malmesbury, whose prescience, in fore- seeing the right moment — and in selecting the right agent. Sir C. Hotham, for urging negociations towards that object — the author had the satisfaction of hearing emphatically panegyrized in all commercial circles — whether native, British, or foreign — in the course of his late visit to South America. Lastly, Mr. M'Cann,* whose previous work on the Plate had evinced great knowledge of the subject, has recorded his later experience of some of the Riverine provinces in a very agreeable and instructive work, partly formed on the model of Sir F. Bond Head's fascinating Rough Rides on the Pampas, and embracing a review of mercantile matters and prospects in those countries. Written with that knowledge of trade which only a mercantile man can be expected to possess, its spirit is so dispassionate as to be quite unique in a critic, on topics which would seem to impart their partizan atmosphere to all who endeavour to detail their position * Two Thousand Miles' Ride through the Argentine Provinces : being' an Account of the Natural Products of the Country, and Habits of the People ; with a Historical Retrospect of the Rio de la Plata, Monte Video, and Corrientes. By William Mac Cann, Author of the Present Position of Aifairs on the River Plate. With Illustrations. In Two Volumes. — London : Smith, Elder, and Co., 65, Cornhill. Smith, Taylor, and Co., Bombay. 18.5.S. 32 INTRODUCTION. to those at a distance. Neither must I, by any means, omit to mention the labours of another of my townsmen, Mr. Thomas Barnes, who, with that mastery of detail and facihty of statistic exposition which seem to be an heir-loom in the family of the late estimable member for Leeds, placed in a very lucid hght, some years ago, a subject to which it was difficult at the time to draw general attention, and a popular elucidation of which could only he expected from a pen so qualified. But of all portions of South America, there is one perhaps concerning which our knowledge is most imperfect, and with which it is most essential that it should be extended, because of the rapid extension of both native and European enterprise in that quarter; We especially allude to that district of the vast region watered by the Amazon of which Para (city) may be considered the entrepot. Fortunately, two very admirable volumes have recently been directed to supplying our deficiency on this head.* The obligations due to these sources will be found amply acknowledged in the chapter devoted to a consideration of the subject. Our own text is enriched with matter drawn from original authorities, long resident on the spot, and in every way calculated to supply trustworthy intelligence. From these the reader will draw his own deductions, as our informants, not * 1. A Narrative of Travels on the Amazon and Rio Xegro, with an Account of the Native Tribes, and Observations on the Climate, Geology, and Natural History of the Amazon Valley. By Alfred R. Wallace. With a Map and Illustrations. — ^London: Reeve and Co., Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. 1853. 2. The Amazon, and the Atlantic Slopes of South America. A Series of Letters under the Signature of 'Inca.' By il. F. M.^^urt, LL.D., Lieut. U. S. Navy ; who, under date, Washington City, January, 1853, says : ' These Letters were originally published by the National Intelligencer and the Union, of tins City. They treat of one of the most important commercial questions of the age: they are eagerly sought after in all parts of the country; and though they have been extensively read, the demand for them in a more per- manent shape than that of a newspaper is such that the Publisher has obtained leave of then- Author to re-issue them in their present fonn.' On the recent visit of Professor Silliman to Humboldt, at Berlin, the veteran explorer expressed his great gratification at the progTess which enterprise was making throughout South America, especially in the region of the Amazon ; and made particular mention of the Professor's cnuntrynian. Lieutenant Maury, of whose INTRODUCTION. 33 encumbering their data with disquisition, liave left tlieir facts to speak for themselves. Notwithstanding the number of publications enumerated as being lately issued upon. South America, and not taking into account others published in the United States, still there is a field of immense extent, as yet comparatively unexplored and hidden, which requires to be opened up to view, in order to enable us to form a sufficiently accurate judgment of the character and capabilities of such countries as Brazil and the republics bordering on the river Plate and its affluents. The main design, therefore, towards this end on the part of the writer in revisiting the scenes of his early youth, is to endeavour to present some fresh sources of information ; partly derived from his own actual observation, and partly from the experience of others, who, possessing the best opportunities, have converted them to the best use in furtherance of the purpose now sought to be attained — viz., the eUmination of what shall serve for a compact but compre- hensive precis of the general condition of the countries named in the title page, and particularly their commercial status and prospective indications of a mercantile complexion. To refresh the memory on such analogous subjects as may prove interesting in connection with these matters, there is appended what it is hoped will prove a mass of desirable information, in the shape of a collection of notes, bringing down incidents to the latest practi- work we are now speaking, and from which we shall draw copiously hereafter. In giving the gallant Lieutenant all praise, however, we should not omit to acknowledge how much the reading public of this quarter of the globe are indebted for their previous knowledge of the same region to another country- man of his, whose excellent little volume has lately been re-issued in England in a cheap form, by Murray, viz., A Voyage up the River Amazon, includ- ing a Residence at Para, by W. H. Edwards ; of which it was justly said that it was a work valuable for the information it gave on this very little known part of the world, and likely to excite many adventurous young men to explore the Amazon, so that going back on the traces of Orellana, and crossing to the Pacific, may probably become, ere long, as familiar to our countrymen as a voyage up the Rhine or the Nile. Mr. Edwards' charming little volume has led to such exploration ; and the interesting results will be found in our chajjter upon the Amazon, which we are particularly desirous of drawing attention to. D 34: INTRODUCTION. cable period antecedent to publication. In order to interfere as little as possible with the current of the narrative, in which it has been deemed expedient to Convey the accompanying observations, the writer intends offering his memoranda in the shape of a record of his voyage, taking in all points touched upon as they naturally arose in connection with it ; and incidentally referring to those authors who have exhibited the greatest acquaintance with the topics embraced, AUIiKNTI.NA OUTWAKU BUUiNU. CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND— LIVERPOOL TO LLSROX. Tlie Argeiitiiui on her maiden voyag'e. — Capacity and capability of the river boat at sea. — From the Mersey to the Tagus in four days. — Lisbon and its Laureats, Vathek and Childe Harold. — Lord Carnarvon on Mafra and its marble halls. — Monasticism and Monarchy. — As])ect and Attributes of the Lusitanian Capital and its Vicinag-e. — Portuguese Millers and the Grinding process among the Grain Growers. — A 'bold peasantry, their country's pride,' the same everywhere. — Native memorabilia of the earth- quake, and Anglo reminiscence thereof. — Anatomical offerings extraordi- nary. — The hie jaeet of Tom Jones, and eke of Roderick Raiulom. — Memento Mori, with admonitions to the Living. — Portuguese peculiarities. — Personal and political economy. — Fiscal fatuities. — Market-place nota- bilia. — Lisbon society. — Clubs and Cookery. — Tea and Turn-out. — Friars, Females, Fashions, and so forth, Operatic and Terpsichoratic. — Lusitanian fidalgos, or I'ortuguese Peers in Parliament. — Portugal the Paradise of Protectionists and Poverty. — Free-trade the only corrective of such cala- mities. — Court Circulars, Conventions, and Commanders. — Few books about Portug.al, and necessity for more. — Hints from the newest, including the Oliveira Prize Essay. — A man's house s(miethingliUc a castle in [jisljon, at the cost of a cottage ornee. — Diplomatic andConsulai- Memoranda. D 2 36 LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. On, on the vessel flies, the land is gone. And winds are rnde in Biscay's sleepless bay. Tkvee days are sped, but with thejourth, anon, Xew shore'? descried make every bosom gay ; And Cintra's mountain greets them on then- way. And Tagus, dashing onward to the deep. His fabled golden tribute bent to jay ; And soon on board the Lusian pilots leap, Aud steer 'twixt fertile shores where yet few rustics reap. ClIILDE Hakold. 1n'n'0.\£Erable as are the craft of every calibre and formation, — sail, steam, and screw,* — by which this favourite and famihai- route is traversed, seldom had the voyager seen in its course a vessel of dimensions similar to those of the Argentina, paddle-wheel, in which I had embarked, constructed at Birkenhead by Mr. John Laird, to run between Monte Video and Buenos Aj-res. She is, (or rather was, for alack, she is now a thing of the past.) 185 feet long by 21 feet beam, and with very fine, hollow hnes ; her engines of 120-horse power, by Fawcett, Preston, aud Co. Intended for river work, and of a light draught of water, it was hardly to be expected that in ocean steaming, when compelled to carry coals, provisions, and all the bulky and ponderous re- quu-ements of a long voyage, the same results could be obtained as in the comparatively tranquil waters of inland navigation ; but under all the disadvantages of being so laden, and having to make way against a strong head-wind and heavy sea, our average speed to Cape Finisterre was nearly 12 knots. Subsequently, we had a more favourable wind, and canvas assisted us a httle, until we * According to the official returns for the twelvemonth ending March last, the amount of British tonnage entered inwards from Portugal consisted of 7 steam and 735 sailing-vessels ; the total amount of both class of vessels being 71,536 tons. The amount of British tonnage cleared outwards for Portugal consisted of 7 steam and 716 sailing-vessels ; the total amount of tonnage being 76,662. Great Britain receives nearly a half of all the exports of Por- tugal, and Portugal only receives one-fiftieth of all the exports of Great Britain. — It appears from M'Gregor's ' Synthetical View of Legislation,' that in 1851, the total amount of the exportations of Great Britain and Ireland was about £75,000,000, of which only ^£1,048,356 was to Portugal ! bemg less than the amount sent by Great Britain and Ireland to Chili and Peru ! Whereas, ill the United States the consumption of British goods has doubled since 1841, and now amounts to nearly one-fifth of all the British manufactures expoi-ted. LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 37 made the Berlings, (bold islets standing out some half-dozen miles from the .land, with a light-house upon them,) getting to our moorings in the Tagus, before dark, on the evening of the fourth dayafter quitting the Mersey. It is impossible to conceive an easier navigation than that to Lisbon; when once across the Bay of Biscay and round Cape Finisterre, you make direct for the Berlings, and other high rocks more to seaward, called the ' Estellas ' and ' Farilhoes de Velha.' There is plenty of spare room for any vessel to pass inside the Berlings, thus saving some distance ; and from Cape Corvoeiro the coast tends inwards to the mouth of the Tagus,* presenting a succession of scenery, so novel and attractive, as at once to satisfy the spectator that the poetry of Byron and the poetic prose of Beckford,f have failed to exaggerate its beauties. Conspicuous among the latter, though it is the handiwork of man availing himself of nature in her picturesquest mood, stands out * It is so needless to tell any one entering the Tagus, much less any one who has entered, how topographically accurate is the description in ' Childe Harold,' that the stanzas are quoted merely to save the reader the trouble of referring to the volume itself, in case he do not quite remember the lines: — The horrid crags, by toppling convent crown'd, The cork-trees hoar that clothe the shaggy steep. The mountain-moss by scorching skies embrown'd, The sunken glen, whose sunless shrubs must weep, The tender azure of the unruffled deep. The orange tints that gild the greenest bough, The torrents that from cliff to valley leap. The vine on high, the willow branch below, Mix'd in one mighty scene, with varied beauty glow. Then slowly climb the many-winding way, And frequent turn to linger as you go. From loftier rocks new loveliness survey, And rest ye at ' Our Lady's house of woe ; ' Where frugal monks their little relics show. And sundry legends to the stranger tell : Here impious men have punish'd been, and lo ! Deep in yon cave Honorius long did dwell. In hope to merit Heaven by making earth a hell, •f- Next to Byron, the great modern English literary name associated with this part of Portugal, and not merely from his residence here, but from his delightful and extraordinary pourtrayal of the conventual life of the neigh- bourhood, in his almost posthumous work, the ' Monasteries of Alcoba9a and Batalha,' is he whom the noble bard alludes to in the well-known lines:- .is LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. the height-crowning, marble-built ilafra, termed the Escurial of Portugal, from it> immensity, magnificence, and the diversity of its contents, consisting of a palace, a convent, and most superb church, whose six organs were pronounced by Byron to be the most beautiful he ever beheld in point of decoration, and was told that their tones corresponded to their splendour. The town of Mafra itself i-^ a small place, 18 miles X.W. of Lisbon, containing about 3.000 inhabitants, and owes what importance it possesses to the celebrated regal and ecclesiastical edifice, constructed in its vicinity by John V., in pursuance of a vow that he would select the poorest locality in the kingdom ; and. finding twelve Francis- can friars living in one hut here, he gave the preference to ifafra — a partiality which its position, if not its preeminent poverty, abundantly justifies.* A clu«tev of shoal*, called the bar, forms a semicircle at the On sloping moimd->. or in the vale beneath. Are domes where whilome kings did make repair : But now the wild flowers round them only breathe ; Yet ruin'd splendour still is lingering there, And yonder towers the Prince's palace fair ; There thou, too, Vathek ! England's wealtliiest son, Once form'd thy Paradise, as not aware AVhen wanton AVealth her mightiest deeds hath done, !Meek Peace voluptuous hu-es was ever wont to shun. Beckford, as is well known, soon after his return to England, bvult the fairy- like structure of Fonthill Abbev. gorgeous as his own Caliph Vathek, and, like it, as unsubstantial : for, on its being sold to Mr. Farquharson for some £40,000, about one-seventh of what it cost, [the catalogues describing its contents were in prodigious demand at a guinea a piece] it fell to the ground. He died in 1844, aged 84 : and was father to tlie late Duchess of Hamilton, and fatlier-in-law to the present Duke of Hamilton and Duchess of Newcastle. * At this convent was educated Don John VI., grandfather to the late ' Lusian's luckless Queen,' who died in 1816 in Brazil, from the melancholy derangement from wliich Dr. Willis, who had attended George IH. for a similar malady, was unable to recover her. The young prince was placed here with the idea of his wearing the cowl as abbot, prior to attaining the highest ecclesiastical honours ; but the unexpected death of his €lder brother made him heir to the throne, wliich he afterwards filled. Of the suitability of the structure for so august an inmate, the late Lord Carnarvon, who visited it in 1.S27, says: — I rode through a bleak but not unpleasant country to Mafra. The convent and palace united constitute an immense pile of building, which excites admiration rather from it< vast extent than fi'om anv architectural 40 LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. mouth of the Tagus, but is seldom an obstacle to vessels entering, for there is generally abundance of water on it to float even the largest vessels, the least depth in the north channel, at low water, being 4 fathoms, and in the south, 6. The only time that any difficulty is encountered, is when the freshes, after heavy rains up the country, add their strength to that of the ebbing tide, which then runs out at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour, and encounters a gale from seaward, for this causes the water to break right across, and vessels must await the turn of the tide to get in ; but in other respects the approach appears very easy, scarcely any captain who has been there before requiring the services of a pilot. After the intricacies and dangers of our own (the St. George's) Channel navigation, with the miles of sandbank that have to be threaded in approaching Liverpool, such an entrance as that to Lisbon calls but for small skill indeed in seamanship ; and almost the veriest tyro in boxing the compass might enact the part of Palinurus. Passing up the Tagus there are numerous forts, palaces, and other imposing buildings, or at least what appeared to be such in the dim twilight that prevailed during our advance towards the Lusitanian capital. The most com.manding object (whereof pre- sently) among these is Belem Castle, near which we were visited by the health officers, and allowed to proceed to our moorings off Lisbon, or rather to those of the Royal Mail Company, which had merits, and forms a quadrangle, measuring 760 feet from east to west, and 670 feet from north to south. The church is situate in the centre, and three hundred cells are placed behind the choir ; the palace might perhaps contain without inconvenience all the courts of Eiu'ope. The thermometer had risen to more than 90°, and it was indeed no common luxury to exchange such in- tolerable heat for the reft-eshing temperature of the convent galleries, which are built of stone, and are high, wide, dark, and apparently interminable. Within those massive waUs_ the fluctuations of the external atmosphere are never felt ; and rarely indeed do any external sounds pierce through those mighty barriers. The monks showed us the refectory, a spacious apartment, and the library, well stored with books. — Portugal and Galicia, with a Review of the Social and Political State of the Basque Provinces. By the Earl of Carnarvox. Thii-d Edition. — London : John Murray, Albemarle Street. 1848. LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 41 been kindly lent until such time as our own are laid down. The rule at the Custom-house, in respect to vessels, is for the masters to enter them and declare whether their cargoes are destined to be landed in Lisbon or not ; if this be doubtful, which was not our case, they ask to be put in franquia, that is, for leave to remain eight days in port until the point is decided. On obtain- ing this they proceed a little way up the river for the appointed period. From Belem to that part of the river which is opposite to the centre of the city, a distance of about four miles, the Tagus is some one and a half wide, and displays on its northern bank, mingled with the dark foliage of the orange and other trees, suc- cessive clusters of dwellings and churches, including the palaces of the AjMa and of Necessidades, in which latter the court is generally held, and from it mostly are dated the royal decrees. With but few exceptions, these buildings are white, which gives the city, at first sight, a much cleaner appearance than is presented on a nearer view. On the south side, which is hilly, but few buildings, unless we include a small fishing village near the mouth of the river, are visible, until the small town of Al- mada, opposite to the city, is reached, containing 4,000 inhabit- ants, and in whose vicinity is the gold mine of Adissa, which has been worked now for some years. A peculiar characteristic of the neighbourhood of Lisbon are the little mills with sails, gyrating away on every eminence, sometimes half a dozen within a few yards of each other, and they whisk round so merrily, as to be quite a pleasant feature in the landscape. It might be the land, par excellence, of Jolly Millers ; for the floury sons of the Tagus seem to belong to the same race as their jovial brothers of the Dee, whose philosophic indifference to the opinion of the world has been made alike musical and memorable by Mr. Braham. That the Portuguese should be sprightly, however, is extremely surprising, seeing that they are ground into dust, almost as literally as their own grain, or at least, the growers thereof; for one who knows them well, writing during a visit as late as last year, (1853), savs : — 42 LIVERPOOL TO LISBOX. They ave a people much resembling in heartiiie-!s and good will our own Ii-ish brethren ; they arc also most apt to learn, and, like the much calumniated sons of Erin, can work, and will work when they are properly encouraged and remunerated. They toil under a burning sun, half-naked and bare-headed, or in the winter under drenching rains and piercing cold, with naught else to protect them from the weather than a straw thatcli, or cloak ; and without other aliment at times than a lump of Indian-maize bread, and a mess of humble pottage, or, at others, the same bread, and a raw onion, with water from the brook as their only drink. Couve gallego (cow cabbage,) from their own little garden, a spoonful of oil from their own olive-tree, a handful of salt gathered from the rocks on the sea-shore, with crumbled Indian-corn bread, baked in their own oven, (which, as is still the case in Canada, is built outside every tenement,) form a stir-about, on which the labourer contentedly makes his principal or even-tide meal, after the toils of the day are over. Occasionally, he may indulge in a morsel oibacalhao (salt cod-iish), or a rancid sai'dine ; but where the family is numerous, from year's end to year's end, they know not the taste of animal food. There are but few wharves alongside of which vessels can take in and discharge their cargoes, so they he at anchor in the stream, and those operations are performed by means of lighters. There are, nevertheless, some handsome quays, with convenient landing- places, of which those at the fish-market and the Caes Sodre are the most frequented ; at the former, the scene being highly ani- mated, particularly in the season for sardinhas. or sardines, which constitute a considerable proportion of the food of the lower orders. The handsomest quay is that which forms one side of Blackhorse Square (Terreiro do Pago), so called from the statue of Joseph the First on horseback in the centre ; the other sides consisting of public buildings, viz. : the Public Library, the Offices of the Ministers of State, the Custom-house, and, at the eastern extremity, the Exchange, being chiefly of marble, as, indeed, nearly all the principal edifices are. It makes a splendid pro- menade, where crowds of well-dressed persons may be seen, on the sultry summer evenings, walking, or seated on the stone benches, enjoying the cool air from the river, until a late hour. From this square, five parallel and level streets, in which are the best shops, lead to the Eogio — a large, open space surrounded by buildings, and appropriated to reviews, processions, &c.. and where, on its northern side, at one time existed the odious Prison 44 LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. of the Inquisition, adjoining the Palace of the same name, now no longer occupied, though sometimes visited on festive occasions by- royalty. Just beyond are the public gardens, well laid out, and stocked with flowers and shrubs, that bespeak the luxuriance and brilliancy of the Lusitanian. arboretum. All this portion of the city is more regularly built than the remainder, and is situated just over the very spot that felt the eifects of the terrible earthquake, traces of which are now and then met with, in the shape of patches of old pavement, in digging for the foundations of houses, &c. ; though there are no traces of the successful storming of the city by the French, under Junot, in 1807, nor of its equally successful resistance of a similar attempt a couple of years afterwards. In the vicinity of the Hospital of St. Jose are the ruins of a church, in which, embedded in the earth, were to be seen, some years since, if not now, skeletons, in various attitudes, of persons who formed the congregation at the time the catastrophe took place, which was, as the reader will recollect, when the greater number of the citizens were assembled at mass in the cTiurclies on All-Saints' Day, November 1st, in the ever-memorable year 1755 — a circumstance that will probably account for the enormous number of 30,000 lives being lost ; for, although 6,000 private dwellings were destroyed, the fatality could hardly have been so great but for the multitudes being assembled in the mode mentioned. The celebration of the festival, too, was otherwise the occasion of prodigious mischief; for, owing to the immense number of tapers in the churches, the curtains, drapery, and other combustible materials, caught fire, and a de- vastating conflagration swept the doomed city from end to end, carrying off what the convulsion had not already prostrated in ruin. Indirectly, however, the commemoration of the festival was productive of some good — at least to our countrymen in Lisbon ; for, in order to avoid exciting religious prejudice during a fete so solemn in the Papal calendar, they had nearly all retired to their country houses, and but ten who remained in the city were killed, a fact which renders, if possible, more magnanimous the LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 45 grant by the British parliament of £100,000 to the relief of the suffering Portuguese, immediately the dismal tidings arrived ; news of like events, but not on such a scale, continuing to be received for a long time after, from various portions of the New World. As in the case of our own dear delightful ante-diluvian Chester, the older quarters of Lisbon city generally interest a stranger most, from their very irregularity ; the streets being narrow, steep, and destitute of trottoirs, and the houses very lofty, ranging in height from five to as many as eleven stories, in each of which dwells a separate family, all using one staircase in common. Notwithstanding the seeming peril from this cause, in the event of another earthquake, the danger of the walls falling is considerably lessened by their being built with a strong frame- work of timber, dovetailed together, before the addition of brick or stone. Some of the churches are very handsome, although the absence of steeples will perhaps cause them to be hardly so regarded by the majority of Englishmen ; and, moreover, many are in an un- finished state, for want of funds. The one that probably astonishes unsophisticated Saxons most, is the Patriarchal Church, from the circumstance of the pillars which support the roof being covered with wax models of heads, arms, legs, &c. — the Mcsi/" native offerings of individuals, desirous of testifying their gratitude to the Virgin, for her cures of complaints affecting those corporeal adjuncts. In the church of St. Eoque is a small chapel, containing imitations, in mosaic, of several pictures of the Italian masters. These, with the splendid decorations, consisting of lapis lazuli columns, candelabra in the precious metals, &c., are credibly estimated to have cost upwards of one million sterling. This vast expense, of course, could only have been in Portugal's most palmy days, when the genius of Albuquerque threw open the portals of the East, and showered 'barbaric pearl and gold' upon his noble king, Emanuel, rightly indeed called the ' Fortun- ate,' and deserving so to be, as worthily inheriting the throne of Alphonso the Victorious (son of the heroic Henry of Burgundy) 46 IJVEEPOOL TO LISBON. who routed live Saracen monarclis at Ourique, and freed his country from the Moors. The British cemetery* {Os aci- prestes), surrounding a neat chapel, is well worth a visit, including, in its attractions, a monument to Fielding, who there lies buried. Few of our countrymen, who have the opportunity, ever fail to make a pilgrimage to the spot where rests all that is mortal of him who drew Partridge and Blifil, Squire Western and Sophia, * The mention of the English burial-ground, in Lisbon, induces us to cor- rect an error into which the recent religious persecutions in Italy have betrayed some of our countrymen at home, as to the supposed existence of such practices in Portugal. Such a mistake is perfectly natural, but it is wholly unfounded ; for, though the religion of the state is strictly Roman Catholic, of the most unmitigated character, still, like Brazil, though unlike Spain, there is tolera- tion for aU religions, and no impediment thrown in the way of their being observed. A Portuguese resident in London, writing to a leading journal on the point raised in consequence of the iniquitous treatment of the Madiai and others by the Duke of Tuscany, says : — ' The liberality and toleration of the Portuguese government towards Protestants, either resident or travelling, in Portugal, has existed for ages past. That line of conduct has never been altered, and for the truth of this assertion I appeal to the British Legation at Lisbon, and to the very numerous aud respectable British commercial body connected with that country. A Briti-ih subject has as much civil and reh- gious liberty in Portugal as he can possibly enjoy in his own country. Chris- tianity and civilization were first carried to Asia, Africa, and America, by that nation which his Lordship so much depreciates, and the door of that vast empire which Great Britain possesses in India was opened by the inhabitants of that soil.' The imputation on the religious liberality of Portugal excites some indignation in that country, and a letter from Lisbon, in one of the papers, at the beginning of the year, says : — Xot only since the establishment of the constitution, but even during the absolute regime, a large measure of toleration was always allowed to all other religions. The English and Ger- man Protestants have long had churches aud cemeteries of their own, and, unlike their brethren in Spam, are allowed to bury their dead with as much 'pomp and publicity- as they please. The only restriction imposed upon people of other persuasions is, that they shall not, by word of mouth, or m writing, revile and insult the estabhshed religion of the country. This re- striction, which was formerly operative, has now, however, become a dead letter, the real religion of the liberal party generally being materialism, against which nobody here seems disposed to declaim. At the beginning of the pre- sent year, (1854), a statement, signed by many of the principal British resi- dents in Oporto, appeared in the London journals, settmg forth that the most unreserved liberty for the performance of Protestant Service, witli any degree iif publicity, was allowed in that city, and had been for a "reat number of years. LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 47 Parson Adams and Tom Jones — ^liis tomb being as eagerly sought as is that of his brother humourist, Smollett, at Leghorn. Strange that two of the most essentially English of all our writers should have died and been entombed so far from their native land, whose literature their genius has so long enriched, and will for ever continue to do so. Besides the public buildings already mentioned, there are several well-managed hospitals, an arsenal, academies for instruction in the naval, military, and other sciences ; the Castle of St. George, used as a prison more than as a place of defence ; museums; a noble national library, of 30,000 volumes, formed from those of the convents suppressed in 1835 ; and, lastly, the aqueduct of Alcantara, with thirty-six arches, a splendid structure, north of the city, supplying the greater part of the inhabitants with water, and so solid, that it withstood the shock of earthquake, which laid nearly all else in ruins. The central arch is of sufficient dimensions to allow of a three-decker, under fall sail, passing through, were there water to float her. The population of Lisbon is between 250,000 and 300,000, having increased rapidly of late years, though sadly thinned during Don Miguel's usurpation, owing to the wholesale murders which were then committed, the numbers obliged to serve in the army, and killed, and also the emigration so many hundreds, nay thousands, were compelled to have recourse to, in order to escape from his cruelties, and those of his satellites. The remem- brance of these atrocities, however, would seem insufficient to deprive him of some partizans in the country yet, if we may iudo-e by the intrigues in his favour that have supervened on the death of the queen. A first visit to Portugal cannot fail to revive — in the minds of Enchshmen — ' memories of the past,' full of ' sweet and bitter fancies,' as being alike the spot where England, by her diplomatic fatuity, earned an immortality of ridicule, and, by her valour, an eternity of praise, thanks to the Great Duke and his troops, so many of whom fell in defence bf those liberties, which, if what LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 49 survives here be a fair specimen, were certainly hardly worth the cost of preservation ;* for, even at this distance of time, how many famihes can recal the bereavements they sustained in that glorious struggle. Moreover, Portugal possesses a deep interest from the great deeds of its early navigators, already slightly adverted to. None who sympathize with the noble qualities the mention of these heroic names conjures up can fail to deplore that the spirit of Vasco de Gama, Cabral, Camoens,f and many others, has not descended to succeeding generations, rendering the land their genius and patriotism had adorned what it might yet be made under an enlightened government, viz., one of the most pros- perous countries in Europe. That it is not so, even after the mismanagement it has endured, and is enduring now, nearly as * Lo ! Cintra's glorious Kcleii intervenes In variegated maze of mount and glen. Ah, me ! what hand can pencil guide, or pen, To follow half on which the eye dilates, Though views more dazzling unto mortal ken Than those whereof such things the bard relates, Who to the awe-strucli world nnlock'd Elysium's gates ? Sir Wm. Napier's correction, in his History of the Peninsular War, of the blunder about the supposed site of the convention, is weE known, but deserves to be repeated : — " Tlie armi-itice, the negotiations, the convention itself, and the execution of its provi- sions, were all commenced, conducted, and concluded, at the distance of thirty miles from Cintra, with which place they had not the slightest connection, political, military, or local; yet Lord Byron has gravely asserted, in prose and verse, that the convention was signed at the Marquis of Marialva's house at Cintra ; and the author of ' The Diary of an Invalid,' improving from a poet's discovery, detected the stains of the ink spilt by .lunot upon the occasion." f As when to them who sail Hjyond the Cape of Hops, and now are past Mozambic, off at sea, north-east winds blow Sabean odours fi-om the spicy shore Of Araby the blest. — Paradise Lost, Book iv. The voyage from Portugal to India was, in those days, more perilous than will easily be believed in these. The seas swarmed with pirates, sliipwrecks were dreadfully fre- quent, and even when these dangers were escaped, the common mortality was so great, that Vieyra says ' If the dead, who had been thrown overboard between the coast of Guinea and tlie Cape of Good Hope, and between that cape and Mozambique, could Iiave monuments placed for them each on tlie spot where he sunk, the whole Avay would appear like one continued cemetery.' Hyperbolical as this is, it shows how enormous the expenditure of life must have been, which could thus be spoken of in the pulpit ! The ship in which Cannens sailed was the only one of the fleet wliioli renched its destination. E 50 LIVERPOOL TO LISBOX. bad as ever, is a matter of never-endiag wondorment to those who know its means and appliances for advancement in the scale of nations. As regards myself, desire for personal authentication on the spot of what I had known from others, imparted an additional zest to my visit, from long acquaintance with the Brazils, even in the time of the grandfather of the late Queen, when the present splendid South American empire was a struggling colony of the now enfeebled and decaying parent kingdom. Hence I was prepared to look with a favourable eye on all that came under my notice in the capital of Portugal — a disposition enhanced by the first glance I had an opportunity of bestowing upon it ; for. seen from the river on a bright simny morning, Lisbon's strikingly picturesque aspect and position reminded me strongly both of Bahia and Rio Janeiro, a portion of the city being built^ like them, on low ground ; hills, covered in everv direction with handsome structures of variegated colours, cliiefly white, rising like an amphitheatre behind ; whilst the red-tiled roofs, green veranlilis, and other fanciful decorations, lend to the whole a very foreign, almost tropical, but extremely pleasing appearance. Unfortunately, the parallel between the capital of Portugal and the metropolis of her flourishing transatlantic offspring further holds good, as. on landing, much of the pleasing illusion vanishes : For whoso entereth -within this town. That, sheening far, celestial seems to be. Disconsolate will wander iip and down, 'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee ; For hut and palace show like filthily ; The dingy denizens are rear'd in dirt ; Ne personage of high or mean degree Doth care for cleanness of surtout or shirt. Though shent with Kg_\-pt's plague, unkempt, unwashd, unhurt. Xor are you greatly disposed to make allowances for the cause of your topographical disenchantment, as you find yourself a mere object of fiscal sm-veillance — obliged to be set ashore at the Custom-house, like a biped bale of merchandise, and have your hat or umbrella scanned as if they ought to be subjected to duty. like everything else, animate and inanimate, that approaches the^^e most absurdly protected waters. Very soon, however. LIVERPOOL TO LISBON". 5 1 move chagrin at such petty personal annoyances deepens into gloom, as you observe the mournful absence of that incessant activity you expect to meet with in so large and important a place. The fatal spell of lethargy and exclusiveness seems to be laid upon everything and everybody : — the very carriages and public conveyances (at least a large portion) are redolent of the past century, and all idea of locomotion is put to flight at the sight of them ; and just the same is the case with the owners. Torpidity pervades the whole population, from the infant in arms, who is too lazy to laugh, to the cripple on crutches, who is too sluggish to grumble. An exception to this rule, however, is the market-place, where fruit, vegetables, the sardines already spoken of, and other odd articles, are brought for sale. The motley groups, with their baskets or little stalls, sheltered by umbrellas of all sizes and colours, are like so many fancy-fair Chinese, whom Portuguese a good deal resemble in bodijy configuration, as well as in other attributes equally little spiritualised, however Celestial. The . kaleidoscopic tableau going on here is a relief to the monotony of other places of resort, and so vividly impresses the stranger that he fancies the performers in the scene must be foreigners, and not ' natives and to the manner born.' The theatrical air of the whole thing is not a little heightened, in his opinion, on finding that no sooner has the clock told one, than, like one o'clock, they all have to pack up their wares and depart till next day, in prepara- tion for the business whereof the market is thoroughly cleaned and put in order. This regulation might be advantageously adopted in regions where the mention of the word Portuguese, especially in connection with cleanliness, immediately superinduces a spasmodic agitation in the hearer's nose, if indeed he can keep his countenance at all. But Portuguese society, as I happen to know very well, from long and varied experience, is extremely agreeable in many places ; and certainly the natives of the old country are exceed- ingly hospitable to strangers. There are several clubs, at the balls of one of which, the Foreign Assoinbl y-rooms, all the rank K 2 J J LtVKRl'OOL TO LISBON'. and fashion of the capital are to be seen, to the number of several hundreds. I had the gratification of being introduced at the Lisbon Club. The house had been formerly, hke so manv similar institutions in London, a nobleman's palace. Although not on so grand a scale, it possesses superior accommodation to most places of the kind amongst us ; and if the Portuguese keep no Soyer, Francatelli, or Ude, with a batterie de ciimm correspond- ing in magnitude and diversity to the celebrity of these professors of the finest art — that of giving a good dinner — they have a social party of an evening,* when a piquant and substantial tea is pro- vided for those who wish to sacrifice to the ' Chinese nymph of tears, Bohea,' The original taste of the Portuguese, who were the first to introduce the beverage to Europe, long before Mr. Pepys drank his ' cup of China drink,' [1661,] still survives, as well as the taste for coffee, the berry of Mocha being a favourite among the offspring of the victims of the Arabs. Chocolate, also, is a very popular beverage, and is consumed in considerable quantities at breakfast and supper, the two principal meals among the majority of Portuguese. The upper classes dress like those of other European capitals, but the lower order of females still retain the cloak and hood peculiar to this part of the Peninsula. There is not, however, so much difference now between the costume of the popidation and that of other cities, as the cowls, sandals, and rope belts of the friars, are no longer to be seen ; for, as is well known, all the religious orders (not * The middle (.-lasses prou\enade with tlieir familie.^ until the sitn begins to have eflect, when they return to breakfast and to bnsines.s. Dinner is usually ser\-ed from noon till 2 p.m., and consists of sopa, vaca cozida, e an-oz, (soup, boiled beef, and rice,) "n'itlt occasionally hum prato do meio (a dish of roast for the centre). Potatoes are seldom or never used, excepting in the kitchen. Fish is only eaten on fa.st-days, and the delicious sardine (because common and plentiful) shares the fate of the potatoe;-. The common vin ordinaire of the coimtiy is drunk at table out of small tumblers, being- supplied from a neighbouring tenda (wine-store) daily or hourly, as it may be requu-ed, at a price never exceeding 2d. per pint. Fine old bottled wine (such a^ we are acquainted with) is alto- gether unknown in Portugal, and it would be almost as raretoiind in any house a couple of dozen bottles of wine, as it would be to discover as many books. Fire-places have not yet become general in dwelling-houses. In cold weather, gentlemen in society wear capotes (large cloth cloaks), and ladies wrap up in thick shawls. Dimier-parties are quite uncommon ; but social evening meetings, wliere tea and simple biscuits are the only refreshments, arc of constant ofcun-encc. — Fnrrexfer'a E^^uj/. LIVERPOOL TO LISBOJf. oS those of nuns) were suppressed in 1835. There is a strong parti- ality for gaudy colours and trinkets ; but that is passing away. Though, generally speaking, the female population of Portugal are not of very prepossessing appearance, especially the humbler classes, whose naturally swarthy complexion is embrowned by exposure to the sun, there are few capitals in Europe where more perfect specimens of beauty are to be seen than in Lisbon ; and what enhances the effect their somewhat unexpected presence produces is, that they are almost invariably blondes, therein differ- ing from most of their Iberian sisterhood on the other side of the Douro, especially those of Cadiz, of whom the noble lord, already quoted, says that they are the Lancashire Witches of Spain. But the other noble lord, whom we have also quoted — and we certainly can corroborate all he says, from our individual experience in Brazil, of the classes he speaks of — observes : ' If I could divest myself of every national partiality, and supppose myself an inhabitant of the other hemisphere, and were asked in what country society had attained its most polished form, I should say in Portugal. This perfection of manner is, perhaps, most appreciated by an Englishman : Portuguese politeness is delightful, because it is by no means purely artificial, but flows, in a great measure, from a national kindness of feeling. The restless feeling, so often perceptible in English society, hardly exists in Portugal ; there is little prepared wit in Portuguese society, and no one talks for the mere purpose of producing an effect, but simply because his natural taste leads him to take an active part in conversation. Dandyism is unknown among their men, and coquetry, so common among Spanish women, is little in vogue among the fair Portu- guese. They do not possess, to the same extent, the hasty passions and romantic feelings of their beautiful neighbours ; but they are softer, more tractable, and equally affectionate. Even when they err, the aberrations of a married Portuguese never spring from fashion or caprice, seldom from vanity, and, however culpable, are always the result of real preference. Certainly, with some exceptions, the women are not highly educated ; they 54 LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. feel little interest, on general subjects, and, consequently, have little general conversation. A stranger may, at first, draw an unfavourable inference as to their natural powers, because he has few subjects in common with them : but, when once received into their circles, and acquainted ivith their friends, he becomes de- lighted with their liveliness, wit, and ready perception of cha- racter.' I quote this passage, beheving from all I heard and observed in Lisbon, that it is an accurate summary of the Portu- guese character there ; that it is nearly equally applicable, in a great degree, to Portuguese society in Madeira ; and, knowing that it is so, in respect to Portuguese society in Brazil. The places of amusement consist of five theatres, including the opera-house, where, as the London and Parisian dilettanti well know, many excellent singers make their debut : the getting up the scenery, &c., are inferior to few estabhshments of the kind anywhere, and the prices are very moderate. It is called San Carlos, and it is scarcely inferior in any respect, either in its architectural extent or the liberahty of its appointments, to its more famous Xeapolitan namesake. Madame Castellan — herself, I beheve, a fellow-comitrywoman of Inez de Castro, whuse por- trait she greatly resembles — has been the principal lyric artiste during the past season. There is also a building for bull-fights, which, though perhaps as much a national sport as in Spain, is not pursued with the same passionate ardour, nor with the same skill, as is displayed by professors of the tauro-machiac art in the sister country. I also attended a sitting of the two Chambers, which appeared to be conducted with great decorum, but, at the same time, without that listlessness or buzzy-fussiness which pervades our own Senate when a bore or a nobody happens to be on his legs. The accom- mocjation for members is at least as good as ours. To be sure, it could not possibly be much worse, if we may judge from those most qualified to form an opinion — the members themselves ; for, what with the perpetual complaints about pestilent smells, hot blasts, freezing draughts, Winding hght, and sightless darkness. LIVBBPOOL TO LISBON. 'J') 0.13 would imagina that the British Senate-house was constructed to serve as a ' frightful example ' of deleterious architecture. The wonder is, that any M.P. has the face to approach a life-in- surance office, at the beginning of a session, without being prepared with a ' doubly hazardous ' premium on his ' policy,' knowing that he is going to talk, or listen to the talk, of politics for some six months ; and, certainly, the looks of many of our law-makers can be consolatory to none but coffin-makers and residuary legatees. Not so with the Portuguese Conscript Fathers, nearly all of whom seemed as hale as new moidores out of the mint, both as to stamina, complexion, and sensibility. The enormous building where they meet (the old convent of San Bento) contains all the needful official aiid red-tape-ical departments. In the Upper Chamber, the Patriarch occupied the chair, in habiliments not unlike those of the Bishop of Oxford, when enrobed in his costume of Chancellor of the Order of the Garter ; and it was curious to see an epitome of our own admixture of the ecclesias- tical vfith the temporal system of legislation, in the House of Lords, carried out in this Portuguese conjunction of spiritual with lay law-makers. In vain you look in the Tagus for that forest of shipping which should fringe the watery highway to, and ought to constitute the leading feature in, so fine a port — the capital of a country the once nautical genius of whose people is expressed in the only poem in any language that makes adventures on the deep its theme. A few stray vessels here and there, with river and fish- ing boats, and those singular latine sails, that so strike the stranger,* some steamers and Government vessels, were all that could now be seen on the bosom of the river, so famed amongst the * These peculiar latine sails are exquisitely beautiful when seen in profile and, when beheld in front, resemble a butterfly perched on a dark ground with expanded wings. — Carnarvon. British naval architects will probably be sur- prised to hear that the Portuguese craft of every kind are all prime built and beautiful models, the elegance of their lines being a source of admiration to every critic. The Oporto fishing-boats, in particular, are fine specimens of the country's capacity for this sort of excellence, and, when under sail, fly through the water at the rate of 12 to 14 knots an hour. 56 LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. ancients for its golden attributes, not because of its auriferous sands,* but because of the affluent tide of its teeming commerce- that port whence, in after ages, though now ages long ago, went forth those expeditions which brought much of Asia into com- parative contiguity with Europe, and discovered, and long held so much of, the finest portion of the New World. For a wonder, not a ' speck of power ' of that nation, whose commerce rose as Lusitania's fell, not an English man-of-war, ubiquitous in every water, and very often present, and too long at a time, in most un- necessary numbers, in these waters in particular, was to be seen, though Admiral Corry's squadron, containing many of the finest and latest built men-of-war in om* navy, including the ' Duke of Wel- lington,' and now with Napier in the Baltic, has since been there. Their absence, however gratifying to financial economists and advocates of non-intervention in politics, helped to complete the triste and dreary air of the empty mart and shipless bay. The cause of this poverty of trade must be obvious to all, even to en- lightened Portuguese. The Government, blind to all experience elsewhere, deaf to the supplications of common sense and even self-interest, draw a kind of cordon round the little trade theA' still possess, and encumber it with such a net-work of preposterous restrictions, as actually to squeeze the life-blood out of it, or, rather, altogether arrest its circulation, which is the same thing in the end, as regards the vitality of commerce. The evil extends to every ramification of industrial pursuit ; and one half of the population live upon a system that seems to have been invented to exclude, instead of encouraging business to come to their shores. ' In the days of Pliny, we ai-e told, the provinces of IDnho, Galicia, and Asturias paid not less than a million and a half octaves of gold to the Roman Empire, as a tribute on the ore extracted &om various mines then in active operation, and yet, in the present day, the revenues derived by the Portuguese Government from all then- mines does not amount to more than £72 17s. The Romans worked mines of gold, silver, iron, lead, coal, antimony, copper, quicksilver, bismuth, arsenic, and tin, in Portugal : and Faria e Souza graphically remarks, ' Hardly is there a river, or mountam-base that it laves, which does not cover precious stones and grains of gold.' This language may be con- sidered poetic, but there is no doubt that ' le sol de Poi-tugal est essentiellement metal- ifere,'— that metals abound throughout the whole countiy ; but the mines are not worked ; neither can then value be correctly ascertained, in the absence of every means of transport, and internal communication. — Forrester, LIVERPOOL TO LISBOX. 0/ Hence, it need hardly be said, that smugghng is the most profitable trade going ; and a large and rapidly increasing business in that line is carried on, along the frontier in particular. If Colonel Sibthorpe, Mr. Ncwdegate, and the remainder of that Spartan band of fifty-nine, who followed the phantom of Protection into the lobby of the House of Commons a couple of years ago, finding that the sun of England has indeed for ever set, as they so often anticipated, desire to bask in the beams of unmitigated monopoly, by all means let them hie hither forthwith ; and they will behold one realm, at least, that carries out their views to the utmost possible extent. By way of apparently bolstering up native industry, Portugal fosters a few stray manufacturing esta- blishments, and farms out monopolies of certain articles (tobacco and soap for instance) to parties who, in the rigorous exercise of their privileges, put another and most effectual drag-chain on the march of commerce. The fruits of such policy are but too appa- rent ; for even the neighbouring state of Spain, so long the synonyme of every fiscal fatuity, but now awaking to a true sense of what it owes to her glorious maritime associations, and to her present and perspective well-being, is taking away a large portion of Portuguese traffic, by judiciously reducing her tariff, promoting railway enterprise, and gradually adopting those liberal views, without whose practical recognition now every country must lapse into almost primeval barbarism. Undoubtedly an extenuation of the imbecihty of Portugal is her complete dependence and reh- ance on her colonies so long, for while she enjoyed a monopoly of them she flourished at their expense. Now things are reversed, and Portugal cannot bring herself to adopt the only remedy, free- trade and unrestricted commerce, in its largest and fullest extent. These would soon fill her ports with shipping, raise rents, aug- ment revenue, and place her in a position worthy of the country- men of Cabral, and of the prestige which he and so many of his eotemporaries and followers so long secured her. That she has an aptitude for commerce is well known ; for, though it was long deemed degrading, and even criminal, in high caste Portuguese, to ,")B LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. meddle in commercial matters, or to intermarry or associate with those who did, there is scarcely any 'Change in the world at the present day that does not number a Lisbon or Oporto merchant among its ablest members. A stay of two days is a short time to enable a stranger to appreciate fully the merits of a large place like Lisbon ; but the defects in her national fiscal system as here manifested, at the very fountain head of the intelligence and influence of the empire, and its mischievous tendency in retarding prosperity, are unmis- takeable. The handwriting on the wall requires no interpreter ; it points out approaching decay, unless Portugal alters her system before it is too Ute, and determines to go with the stream of events and the destinies of the world. The real hope for the country still points in the direction of Brazil ; not only because of the peculiar weight of example in that quarter, where prosperity has progressively and unvaryingly followed every step in the path of commercial and political enlightenment — every assimilation to the existing English system of mercantile polity — but from the circumstance of the affluence of Brazil healthily reacting upon, and wakening up the energies of the old country to join pari jut.ssK in the march with her vigorous progeny. In a trading, especially in a passenger-trading sense, the connection between the two is still important, and is every day becoming more so, through Anglo-Brazilian enterprise, (of which the Liverpool Com- pany I have the honour to belong to affords the most prominent instance yet), and is liltely to be vastly improved by the esta- blishment of direct steam navigation, chiefly cariied on by native and South American capital. The principal promoter of this is Mr. Moser, well known for enterprise of a like kind in the navi- gation of the Minho, from which river to the Guadiana a screw steamer now plies. Most of the bourgeoisie of Brazil were either born in Portugal or are descendants of Portuguese. Shop-keeping is a business these Peninsulars fully understand, especially those from Oporto ; pai'ticularly in everything pertaining to ti-inkets, articles of jewel- LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 59 lery, and goldsmith' s-work, the Portuguese being therein cunning workmen, though for the most part, regarded as indiiFerent car- penters, shoemakers, and the Hke, at least by British employers. After realizing money abroad, they naturally find their way to Por- tugal ; where, if even for a season, they enjoy themselves as only children of the South or of the tropics can when they have the means ; or spend the remainder of their days where their fathers lived and died before them. They will soon have the invaluable advantage of the steamers of no less than three companies calling at Lisbon, including the ' Luso-Brazileira,' which is also composed of Portuguese and Brazilian shareholders. These, let us hope, will prove the immediate harbingers of that good time which can alone be brought about by the multiplication of such instruments of a national good ; for it must be obvious to every one who knows Portugal, or the Portuguese abroad, that what is wanted is abundance of communication by steam, both by sea and land, railways, and free-trade, or some approximation to it. With these she may resume her position amongst the nations, and share with her oldest ally, England, the benefits arising from a mutually advantageous intercourse. Respecting the Royal Family, during my stay at Lisbon, when there was, of course, every apparent prospect of a long, if not a very tranquil and happy reign for the late Queen, I learnt that they kept themselves as retired and quiet as their exalted station would permit, appearing little in public, but understood to be busy in those plots and intrigues, suspicion of which on the part both of the people and the upper classes, deprived her Majesty of much of that popularity which her many excellent qualities were calculated personally to secure her. What may be the course that her husband, the Regent, will pursue, or that may be pur- sued by her son when he attains his legal majority in 1858, it is of course impossible to foresee. His young Majesty is now in the course of making a tour through Europe, chiefly with a view, it is said, of finding a partner for his throne ; and rumour points to one of the house of Coburg to which his father belongs, viz., a daughtei' 60 LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. of the King of the Belgians. This alhance, though otherwise ehgible in itself, is deemed hj some politicians hkelv to aggravate the troubles of the country, by making it a hot-bed of extraneous intrigue, in addition to the domestic Miguelite plottings that appear chronic in Portgual. There are, as already mentioned, several royal palaces, but few of them completely finished, or ever likely to be so, owing to the limited state of the civil list and the reluctance of the Cortes to grant supplies for such purposes. The Palace of Ajuda is a truly regal building, whose external magnificence at least, fills every one with regret that it should so far resemble so many others, of vast pretensions and undoubted beauty, as to remain incompleted, and in consequence, unoccupied. Visitors to the Court are generally located in a pretty marine palace, w^ith a terrace and garden facing the river, at Belem, the town of which name contains about 5,000 inhabitants. In its vicinage is the burial-place of many of the earher Portuguese monarchs ; it possesses also, in addition to the castle and custom-house already mentioned, and a singular-looking fortress, some other pubUc institutions of note, including a high- school, a convent, and the largest iron-foundry in Portugal, to- gether with a noble church, built to commemorate the memorable departure of Vasco de Gama on his great voyage, as so beauti- fully alluded to by the national poet. It may not be superfluous to caution the yomig or casual reader not to confound this town with one somewhat similarly pronounced, Baylen, in Spain — a spot that sounds in French ears pretty much as Cintra does in ours. And for much the same reason — ^the blun- dering incapacity of those charged with the conduct of the trans- actions that took place, almost simultaneously, in the same year, and within a month of ea^h other ; except that the former, having had priority of occurrence, rendered the latter more inexcusable. It was in July, 1808, that 14,000 French, commanded by Dupont and Wedel, being defeated by 25,000 Spaniards under Pena and Compigny, Duponfs entire division of 8,000 men laid down their arms — the beginning of the French disasters in Spain, as lending LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 61 courage to the whole native population to pursue tliat system of resistance which in the end, aided and directed by British valour and science, rendered nugatory all the efforts of the invader permanently to subdue the country. Of Belem, the recent military celebrity is not great, the two chief incidents in its history being its capture by* the French, the year before tho occurrence just named ; and, secondly, its capture under the troops of Don Pedro, in 1833. What lends its real historic, or at least archaeologic interest to the place, is its propinquity to the remains of some of the finest Moorish architecture in the world, the Alhambra itself scarcely excepted ; and these alone ought to suffice to render a trip fashionable among our ennuyed tourists, to whom almost all the remainder of Europe is nearly as well known as the beach at Brighton or the Westmoreland lakes. Notwith- standing the charm to British ears of the words Busaco, Vimiera, Badajos, Braga, Torres Vedras, and the Douro, Portugal is a terra incognita to the pic-nicish and Pickwickian tribe, and altogether exempt from the remonstrance of the hlaze bard — And is there then no earthly place, "Where we can rest, in dream Elysian, Without some curst, round English face. Popping up near, to break the vision ? 'Mid northern lakes, 'mid southern vines, Unholy cits we're doom'd to meet ; Xnr highest Alps nor Apennines Are sacred from Threatlneedle Street ! If up the Simplon's path we wind, Fancying we leave this world behind, Such pleasant sounds salute one*s ear As — ' Baddish news from 'Change, my dear.' But how can it be wondered that Portugal should be a ret untrodden Edeii to the tourist, seeing that it is the only country. or tract of country, in Europe, or on the confines thereof, from Odessa to Iceland, that Murray hasn't hand-booked 1 The ' Anak of Booksellers,' who has ' done ' the Pyramids and the Pyrenees, Styria and Finland, Whitechapel and Wallachia, the Dniepei' and the Nile, has left Portugal undone ; for it cannot be called doino- it, in the Albemarle-street sense of the term, to devote to it a fcAv small pages of large typf, and call them ' Hints.' Nevertheless, 02 LIYEEPOOL TO LISBON. far below the Murrayan standard as that is, still it will be useful, as being likely to incite travellers thitherward ;* and then the great publisher will, doubtless, provide for their use some Head capable of turning out a sizeable and seasonable octavo of reading as delightful as Borrow and as instructive as Ford has done for the scarcely more romantic region the other side of the Guadiana. Meanwhile, calling attention to that one J of the 'Hints' which tells how others may be taken, as to the London means of getting there, in addition to those still better Liverpool means furnished h\ our South American Steam Company, it is well to apprise the reader, desirous of the latest and best information about Portuo-al, that it will be found in the extremely agreeable and attractive volumef which owes its origin to the munificence and patriotism * Hints to Travellers in Portugal, in Search of the Beautiful and the Grand. With an Itinerary of some of the most Interesting Parts of that Remarkable Country. — London : John Murray, Albemarle Street. 1852. f The Oliveira Prize-Essay on Portugal : with the Evidence Regarding that Country taken before a Committee of the House of Commons in May, 18.52 ; and the Author's Surveys of the Wine-Districts of the Alto-Douro, as Adopted and Published by order of the House of Commons. Together with a Statistical Comparison of the Resources and Commerce of Great-Britain and Portugal. By Josh. James Forrester, Wine-Grower in the Alto-Douro. — London : John Weale, 59, High Holborn. John Menzies, Edinburgh. Coutinho, Oporto. 1852. I There is scarcely any difficulty now in going to Portugal, for a steamer sails from Southampton for Lishon on the 7th, 17th, and 27th of even' month, or on tlie following day, when any of those days should fall on a Sunday, and generally enters A'igo Bay in tliree days ; and, weather permitting, calls off Oporto, and arrives in five or six days at Lisbon, fi"om which city a steamer occasionally sails for Oporto, at which place the tra- veller is recommended to c'ommence his excursions, the province of Minho excelling all others in Portugal in whatever is fertile and picturesque, and being, equal, if not superior, in grandeur to the district of the Estrella Mountains. The ordinary mode of travelling is on horses or mules, which can be hired for about 5s. 6rf. per day, including their food ; but the arrieros who accompany them must be maintained at the cost of him who hires them, and he likewise expects to receive a gratuity. The money of the comitry is cal- culated in reis, and taking the mil rei, or 1,000 reis, to be equal to is. 6rf., the value of the current coin will be nearly as follows : — In Silrer : The Cruzado noi'o, or 480 reis = 2.1. 2(7. ; the 12 Vmtem piece, or 240 reis = Is. Id. ; the 6 Yintem piece, or 120 reis = 6i ; the 3 Vintem piece, or 60 reis = Sid. ; the testoon, or 100 reis =5irf. ; the Half Testoon, or 50 reis = 2Jf7.— /« Gold: Moidore, or 4,800 reis =£1 1,*. 8c?. ; the small gold l)iece, or 5000 reis = £1 2s. Gd. ; the gold piece, or 8000 reis = £1 16s. The English sovereign circulates in Portugal for 4500 reis. The copper coins in general circidation are the following :— The 5 reis, equal to little more than Old. ■ the 10 reis, equal to little more than Oid. ; the 20 reis, or Vintem, equal to little more than Irf. ; the 40 reis, or Pntaca, equal to little more than 2d. LIVERPOOL TO LISBON. 63 of the accomplished member for Fontefract, Mr. OUveira, who, sprung of the ancient Lusitanian stock himself, and numbering among his aacastors the Pombals, de Castros, Tojals, and Thomars, has laboured assiduously, and most successfully, in disseminating among the most intelligent and influential minds of either country a correct knowledge of what conduces to the commercial prosper- ity of both. Towards this end nothing can be more eifectual than a careful study of the admirable essay alluded to below, and from which some few of the foregoing facts are taken. Indeed, we would fain hope that, at least some of the excellent arguments it addresses to the Portuguese government have already produced a good efl^ect ; for, in the speech to the Cortes by the Regent, in January last, there is great promise not only of railway en- couragement, but regulations we have spoken of being relinquished, such as the monopoly on salt, and even that on tobacco is likely soon to be abandoned. Improvements of a similar kind are to be extended -to Madeira. Our political relationship with Portugal, from the personal family alli- ances between the two countries, and from other causes, has of late years been kept up at great expense ; and, according to some critics, with very little good to any but the individuals at whose instance and on whose behalf British inter- ference has taken place, the Portuguese population being understood to be as little pleased with its effects as English taxpayers are enamoured of its expense. Ostensibly our diplomatic and consular corps now in Portugal consists of the following members, and at the salaries annexed to then- names : — eEnvoy extra- ordinary and minister plenipotentiary, Rt. Hon. Sir Richard Pakenham, K.C.B., salary £4000 per ami. ; and house-rent £500; secretary of legation, W. R. Ward, salary £500 ; paid attache, Jos. Hume Burnley, £250 ; unpaid attaches, Hon. W. G. OornwallLs Elliot, and Hon. Francis Pakenham. Con- suls : — ^Lisbon, William Smith, £600 ; vice-consul, Jeremiah Meagher, £300 ; Oporto, Edwin Johnston, £500;- Loanda, Geo. Brand, vice-consul, £50; St. Michael (Azores) T. C. Hunt, consul, £400 ; Payal, J. Minchin, vice-consul, £100 ; Terciera, J. Read, vice-consul, £100. Of the officers at Madeira and Cape Verds, (Portuguese possessions) due mention will be made under those heads. The Portuguese diplomatic and consular staff in England consists of : — Envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary. Count de Lavradrio, 12, Gloucester Place, Portman Sc[uare ; secretary oflegation, Chevalier Pinto de Soveral; attaches, E. F. de la Figaniere, J. C. Stone, and Geo. Manders ; consul-general, F. J. Vanzeller, 5, Jeffrey Square, St. Mary Axe ; consuls : Liverpool; Almeida Campos; Bristol, Ant. B. de Mascarenhas; Cork, Geo. Manders. G4 LIVERPddL TO I,rsBO\. Ill Cdueluding tliis brief r-liaptcr, wliirli !>;. nnfitvtunately. neces- sarily iiuicli more l)i-ief than the subject warrants, we have only to add, that sliould its perusal, or that of the several works already en\inierated. induce readei's to visit Lisl)on in searcli of jileasure, and niiire especially those in searcli "f health, the important item of house-rent will be found almost fabulously moderate com- pared with any other capital in Europe, and, I should iniao-ine, in the world. A perfect palace, in the literal meaiiino- of the term, may be had for £100 a year, containing suites of ro(jms in which a coach and foni' might be tuiaied. Pi'O visions and all the pi-oduce of the Country are exceedingly cheap, but all imported articles are ecpially dear, liecause of the absurd protective system alreadv spoken (if, which permits and eiicouragi>s native manufacturers to make the wurst articles at the highest price, thus nf course entailing the iiKJst limited consum]ition, and restricts purchases of all coni- modities that can possibly be disjiensed with. Amongst hotels, the Braganza, laiilt on an cmincnre overliMjkiuo' the Tagns, stands preeminent, and is ]iart of the Biaganza family estate. The hill of fare is attractive, and rharges moderate, regret Vicing felt that travelh'i's liy sea cannot go at once to such comfortalile quartei's, instead of to the vile Lazaretto, to which they are now consigned fill roiitfi from England or ]5razil ! Mi.n ]■ \ I \i. \ Tin: i.Arni-:r. tiii:t:, >rATn:ii;A. CIIAPTEIt II. LISBOX TO MADEIRA. Two more days' pleasant Paddliiii;- on the Ocean. — Approach to Madeira. — Charming aspect of the Island. — Unique boats and benevolent boatmen. — Pastoral progression in bucolic barouches extraordinary. — Personal apjjear- aiice of the inhabitants. — Atmospheric attractioas of Madeira, and absence of all natural annoyances. — The Vine-Blight and its consequences, present and prospective, on the people at home and the consumption of their wine abroad. — Funchal, and its urban and suburban et ceteras. — Romance and reality of the History of the Island, ' Once Upon a Time.' — Importance of English residents to the place. — Coat of living, and what you get for your money. — Royal and illustrious visitors. — Mercantile matters, and consular cordiality. — Grave Reflections in the British Burial Ground. Note to the Illustr.\tion. — Views of Funchal, of the English Burial- place, and other objects in Madeira, are so familiar, that in preference to any of them, there is here given, as being much less hacknied, one re])resenting a small fort or outwork, called Loureiro, or the Laurel Tree, on the coast to the east of Funchal, being the first of the series copied from the portfolio of the gentleman to whom our volume is so much indebted for such privilege. F 66 LISBON TO MADEIRA. Oh ! had we some bright little isle of our own. In a blue summer ocean, far off and alone, Where a leaf never dies in the still blooming bowers, And the bee banquets on thi-ough a whole year of flowers ; Where simply to feel that we breathe, that we live. Is worth the best joy that life elsewhere can give. The glow of the sunshine, the balm of the air. Would steal to our hearts, and make all summer there. Our life should resemble a long day of light. And our death come on. holy and calm as the night. — Moore. OcEAN sailing, perhaps, does not present anything more delightful than the trip from Lisbon to this island in fine or moderate weather. We soon bade adieu to the Tagus, with its merry-going windmills, and its palaces and churches, the bold dome of the Cora§ao de Jesus being the last visible in the horizon as we steamed away ; and, on the second morning at daylight, made the Island of Porto Santo, which looks bleak and dreary enough, but has the repute of having some verdant spots upon it ; and a small harbour called by the same name. Madeira, some 35 miles distant, was in sight a^headj its mountains peeping out of the clouds ; and a couple of hours brought us up to the south side, along which we steamed. The hills were covered with innumerable cottages, and huts built amongst the vine plantations, which rise in ridges, nearly from the water's edge to the height of 2,000 feet ; the best vine growths, no doubt, being found at about half that elevation. It is needless to say that the coup d'oeil so presented is as charming as it is singular. Immediately after passing Brazen Head, the Bay of Funchal opened before us, and a more beautiful sight cannot well be conceived, the hills towering to a considerable altitude, dotted a long way up with pretty-looking villas and well cultivated gar- dens, until, reaching the town, these become merged in its compact mass. Funchal, which contains a population of some 20,000 in- habitants, bears the usual Portuguese characteristics of white or fancifully-coloured houses, many being lofty, with look-outs to the sea, forts, churches, &c. The Loo Eock, commanding the entrance of the bay, is very remarkable, being quite separated from the. main land, which it there protects from the roll of the sea. Here we found lying in the roads, amongst other vessels, two American men-of-war, just come over from tlie African station to' LISBON TO MADEIRA. 67 refresh, as well as the Severn steamer, coaling on her way from the Brazils to Lisbon and England. This opportunity enabled us to send home dispatches forthwith. An assemblage of those peculiarly strong-built boats, with double keels to protect them from being stove in by the tremendous swell that sets in-shore so frequently, soon came to us with offers of service, chiefly in the shape of miscellaneous matters for sale ; and we found ourselves amongst a pushing, energetic race, anxious to trade and make money, with an earnestness that was quite refreshing. Many spoke tolerably good English, and showed evident signs of being accustomed to deal with our countrymen. Landing on the beach is sometimes a formidable operation here ; but the boats, as we have said, are well adapted for all emergencies incident to the operation, whether performed by those in robust health, or, as is too frequently the case, by invalids, in almost the last stage pre- ceding dissolution. The boatmen are very active and obliging on such occasions, and considerate to a degree that would be perfectly incredible to a Thames wherry-man at Gravesend. We were immediately beset by a crowd of applicants for favours in one shape or another, amongst whom were not a few beggars, although I believe they are prohibited from soliciting alms, and a very good institution exists for the helpless and houseless. Some of our passenger's, with the precipitancy of English in all such matters the moment a foreign shore is reached, proceeded to test the vehicular conveniences of the island, by a drive in one of those extraordinary bovine sledges drawn by two bullocks, and which travel up the hills at a pace sufficiently surprising, considering the apparently sluggish conformation of the steeds. I took a ramble over the town, and made sundry diplomatic calls ; afterwards proceeding [aloft, as may be literally said,] to enjoy the hospitality of Mr. Blandy, who occupies a charming country seat about a mile up the hill, where there is a splendid view of the town and bay, as well as of the towering mountains above. One of the sleighs or sledges, just mentioned, carried us along a succession of steep hills very quickly, a mode of convey- r2 fi8 LISBON' TO MADEIRA. ance which, notwithstanding its primeval fashion, appears to be of recent date here. This char rustique of the mountains resembles, as nearly as possible, one of our turn-abouts at a fair, with two seats opposite to each other ; but the most curious uses to which this odd contrivance is put, is in coursing down-hiU by express train, as they call it. Two persons seat themselves side-by-side in the sledge, and an equal number of boys, holding a strap attached to it. commence running down the steep declivities at a pace that must be felt to be understood ; but an idea of it may be formed by those who remember the Vauxhall illustration of centrifugal force, some years ago, when an unhappy monkey was placed in a carriage and shot down an inchned plain, at the bottom whereof was a huge wheel, over and around which the traveller and his vehicle were propelled, and brought to a stand-stiU after attaining a level on the other side. The Madeira roads are paved with sharp stones set vei'y close together; so the machine glides downwards without meeting with any resistance, and, in ten minutes, descends a distance that talies half an hoiu* or more to mount on horseback. It was the most curious sensation I ever felt ; and, though assured of its safety, one cannot make the ex- periment for the iirst time without thoughts of an upset running in one's head, contact between which and the stones would not have been very agreeable. Mountainous countries are doubtless favourable to the promotion of personal activity : and certainly the way in which the natives go up and down the steep paths here, with burthens on their backs, especially in such a climate, is something remarkable. It is no wonder that the English are fond of Madeira, but a very great wonder that far larger numbers do not resort thither, to pass the winter months, with the numerous facilities of steam navigation now presented to them. The climate, the total change of people and scenery, the teeming vegetation, yielding the pro- duce both of Europe and the tropics, the picturesque disposal of the houses on the very ridges of the hills, with every regard to comfort and even luxurv, all combine to render this a kind of LISBON TO MADEIRA. tJ9 earthly paradise, to which the seeming rhapsody at the head of our chapter is really only literally applicable. Here indeed nature showers down her choicest bounties : no fogs, miasmas, or even hurtful dews ; atmosphere almost always translucent and bright; the thermometer in winter scarcely ever falling below 60 degrees; and where, during the hot summer months, a cool and comfortable retreat, of almost any temperature, may be found up the mountains. Lastly, there are no poisonous reptiles, merely a brown lizard, harmless to everything save the vines ; frogs are quite a recent importation ; and so far as I could learn, there are none of that numerous tribe of annoying insects which infest the tropical regions, only the familiar household flea, that makes himself at home everywhere. Unfortunately, the dependence of the population and the staple of Madeira has been its vines, whose produce this year, as well as last, has totally failed, from some cause almost as inscrutable, or at least as incurable, and in its consequences nearly as cala- mitous, on a small scale, as the potato rot in isles nearer home. 1 could not have believed without seeing it : — in every direction the grapes were withered up like parched peas, and, in many cases, the trees themselves dying. Such an extraordinary visi- tation has, I believe, never been known here before. It partakes very much of the same virulent character as the diseases that at times aifect the cereal world, and something of the kind was ex- perienced with terrible severity in the Canaries in 1704. Two years' failure of a vintage, in an island like Madeira, would be almost annihilation, if it were not for its other boundless vegetable resources ; and, as in the case of the destruction of the Irish root, it is augured that much good may arise to the people from the in- creased stimulus to mdustry so occasioned, and their being induced not to place too great a dependence on any one product. Still, it is a melancholy sight to behold the support of a whole people struck down by such an inconceivable bhght. Every means have been tried to arrest its progress, but without success ; and, should it continue its ravages, Madeira wine bids fare to become greatly 70 LISBON TO MADEIRA. increased in value a few years hence, when, as a matter of course, it will be more in vogue and sought after, than has been the case for a long time back.* The streets of Funchal are narrow, but clean, and intersected by streams of water, brought also into nearly every large dwel- ling. Their silence, owing to the absence of vehicles, strikes the European stranger as extraordinary ; especially at night, when he seems to be placed in a city of marionettes, as it were ; and, from the presence of the palanquin, bearing fair occupants about, quite an oriental tinge is imparted to the aspect of the whole urban scene. Speaking of that, a note on the physical attributes of the Madeirans ; and we cannot do better than quote the author- ity of a gentleman* — ^perhaps we should say a lady, as it is doubt- less her impressions in letter-press that are reflected on this point f — who is the latest authority on what may be called the agremens of the island. There are aqueducts made to bring the water from the mountain side, and several deep gullies or ravines run through the town and empty themselves into the sea. These cavities being crossed by bridges, the sides have been bmlt up at a considerable expense, and are covered with verdure, tropical and European, producing a most picturesque effect. They are also most beneficial in a sanitary sense, being in fact main arteries for circulating pure fresh air, as well as for carrying off the impurities. Excepting epidemics, Madeira, both town and country, must naturally be the healthiest place in the world, for the reasons * A Sketch of Madeira ; contaming Information for the Traveller, or Invalid Visitor. By Edward Veenon Haroourt, Esq. With Sketches hy Lady Susaa Vernon Harcourt. — ^London; John Mvirray, Albemarle Street. 1851. •j" Tou must not look for many pretty faces in Madeira after the age of thirteen : amongst the upper classes inertness, and amongst the lower, hard work, reduce the standard of beautj-. The upper class of women are hardly ever seen in the streets, save on their road to mass, or when going to pay a visit ; on these occasions all the jewels, plate, and ribbons, of apparently very ancient families, are to be seen in full display. The ladies generally live on their balconies, watching passers-by. The English ladies, going to church draw forth many fair beholders and critics, and on Sundays the balconies are lined with native fashion. The glory of the Madeira women is their hair, which is of the richest growth and blackest hue, and their eyes, which are dark and bright. — Harcourt. LISBON TO MADEIRA. 71 already stated. The population of the island is estimated at up- wards of 100,000, or, at least was so till lately ; but there is a good deal of emigration going on, and owing to the late distress it is likely to increase materially, both to Demerara and the Brazils, where the natives prove to be most valuable labourers. The history of Madeira, or at least its political history, is of no great importance. Like Brazil, it is named after its wood, and so is its capital, Furichal, from a species of fern abounding in still greater profusion than the magnificent timber. A romantic interest belongs to its early annals, as it was discovered, it is said, by Mr. Macham, an Enghsh gentleman, or mariner, who fled from England for an illicit amour. He was driven here by a storm, and his mistress, a French lady, dying, he made a canoe, and carried the news of his discovery to Pedro, King of Arragon, which occasioned the report that the island was discovered by a Portuguese, a.d. 1345. But it is maintained that the Portuguese did not visit the place until 1419, nor did they colonise it until 1431.* It was taken possession of by the British in July, 1801 ; and again, by Admiral Hood and General (afterwards Viscount) Beresford, Dec. 24, 1807, and retained in trust for the royal family of Portugal, which had just then emigrated to the Brazils. It was subsequently restored to the Portuguese crown. The residence of Englishmen here, is of course highly advan- tageous to the place, and they are welcomed, as they deserve to be, by a poor but industrious, and by no means abject or cringing, people. On the contrary, the population of all classes are remark- able for their frank and ingenuous bearing. Living j is reasonable ; * One of these traditions is very gi-acefully and attractively told by Mr. Charles Knight, in his agreeable volumes, published by Murray, a couple of months back, and entitled ' Once upon a Time.' f Lodgings in Madeira are plentiful and good. For a family, the most comfortable plan is to talse a Quinta, that is to say, a house with a garden, standing in the suburbs of the town. The price asked for the season of six months varies according to their size, from #50 to £200. In such cases the tenant is supplied with everything but plate and house linen. For single persons the boarding-houses are least troublesome, as well as most economical : a bed-room, sitting-room, attendance, and board are obtained there for fifty dollars, or £10 8s. 4d. a month. These houses are conducted on a liberal scale, and every English comfort is provided. If a Quinta is taken, a supply of servants, board, plate 72 LISBON TO MADEIRA. and it is to be hoped that thousands, instead of hundi-eds, of our countrymen, will ere long find their way here. The visits of oui" late estimable Queen Adelaide, of the Dowager Empress of Brazils, and others of eminent station and corresponding means, are dwelt upon with gratitude, as they not only caused a consider- able circulation of money, but did much good personally. In no part of the world can the bounties of nature, or the precious gift of health be so richly enjoyed, or in a manner so agreeable to Europeans, as here. The island has some httle commerce with different places, but administered in a manner that renders all we said about Lisbon restrictions, monopohes, and mercantile impedi- ments, applicable in an agravated degree, if that be possible ; and, of course, until things mend there, no improvement can be looked for here. The trading portion of the commimity seem to be very social and friendly amongst themselves, although not mixing a great deal with the English, or rather, the Enghsh maintain their constitutional isolation from the natives, but with a rigidity which time is rapidly mitigating. The character for British hospitality is fittingly maintained by Mr. George Stoddard, our Consul, who occupies the palatial residence of a Portuguese noble, and dispenses the duties of his office in a maimer that may well reconcile the strictest economist at home to the most inadequate stipend of and linen, may be procured at a given rate. It is inconceivable what annoyances you are saved by sucb an arrangement ; besides the endless impositions practised upon the ignorance of foreigners by servants and tradesmen, it Ls no small luxury to be able to pay a given sum do^vn monthly, instead of the interminable daUy payments -which the ready money system of Madeira requires. Plate, furniture, pianofortes, saddles, guns, and, in fact, any things that are brought out as luggage, are allowed to pass through the Custom House free of charge, on the bond of some resident householder being given that the owner of the property will export it in eighteen months. Portuguese servants may be hired for house and kitchen work at the rate of about from four to six dollars per month for the former, and from six to eight dollars for the latter, sennce. Those who are content with a plain table, average honesty, and moderate attention, have no reason to be dissatisfied. Provisions of all sorts are cheap. English bread, which is sold at 2Jrf. the poimd, is the dearest article of food ; the quality- of it, however, is excellent. Mutton, which is an indifferent meat, fetches from S^d. to id. a pound ; beef, which is good, from 3Jrf to id. ; and veal, from id. to 5d. Fowls may be purchased at from lOd. to Is. 3d. a couple. The markets aie held at daybreak, and all the meat, the best fish, and best fruits are brought at that time. Tea, soap, and tobacco are contraband, but the Custom House is not inexorable. A common English wardrobe, with the addition of a few lighter articles, and a waterproof covering for the moimtains, su£Bce for clothing. — HciTCOltTt LISBON TO MADEIRA. 73 £300 a year attached to it ; for the obUgations are often irksome, if not very onerous ; and not a few of them arising out of melan- choly occurrences, to whose frequency the tombstones and monu- ments in the English burial-ground bear such significant testimony. This Anglo Pere la Ohaise of the Western Atlantic is one of the first objects visited — and, alas ! often the last, by the survivors of those whom The verdant rising and the flowery hill, The vale enamell'd, and the crystal rill, The ocean rolling, and the shelly shore, Beautiful ohjects, shall delight no more. Now the lax'd sinews of the weaken'd eye In watery damp and dim suffusion lie. Bidding adieu, however, to these melancholy matters, we again re- sume our course. HOTEL, FOKMEELT COSI'EST, TENEEIFFE. CHAPTER III. MADEIRA TO CAPE VERDS, TVITH A GLAXCE AT THE CAX ABIES. Ofcauic Sailing again.— Halcyon weather, and modern steaming to the For- iimatce IiisuUe of the Ancients.- — A stave on the saffron-eolom-ed singing bii-ds. — Touching Tenriife, and Miltonic parallel to the Arcli-Enemy. — Approach to Porto Grande, and what we foimd there, especially its exten- sive accommodation for steamers. — Deficiency of water the one di'aw-back. — Something concerning Ethiopic Serenaders under the Line. — Prome- thean Promontary extraordinary. — A memento of mortality midway in the world. — Portuguese rewards honourably earned by an Englishman. — Utihty of Consuls in such places. — First acquaintance with an earthquake. — Verd Grapes soured by a paternal government. — Interchange of news between the Outward and the Homewai'd bound. — A gcod propelling turn towai-ds a brother of the screw. MADEIRA TO CAPE VBRDS. 75 Or other worlds they seem'd, or Happy Isles, Like those Hesperian gardens famed of old, Fortunate fields, and groves, and flowery vales, Thi-ice happy isles. — Paradise Lost, Book iii. This track is, generally speaking, about the most pleasant in the Atlantic Ocean ; fine sunny weather and fresh north-east trade winds, which blow with tolerable regularity nearly the whole year round, rendering it very easy saihng indeed, and proportionably agreeable to passengers, who may be supposed by this time to have attained their sea-legs. In our case the wind was, unfortu- nately too light to be of much use, as a vessel going from ten to eleven knots, under steam, must have a very strong breeze to get a-head of such speed and assist the machinery, as well as obtain another knot or two. We pass the Canaries (or Fortunate Isles, as they were called,) to windward, having in view the far-famed Peak of Teneriffe, upheaving high its giant bulk 12,182 feet, and keeping our course direct for St. Vincent. The Canaries are naturally associated with our earliest school-boy notions, as the original home of the charming httle universal household song- ster,* to whom they have given their name, but here called thistle-finch, and having for its companions the blackbird, linnet, and others of the same tuneful and now Saxonized family. The real Canary of these islands, however, the Fringilla Canaria of Linnseus, and which still abounds here, is not of the saffron or yellow colour it attains in Europe ; but is, in its wild state, the * Two distinct species of finch (Cardudis) appear to have afforded the different varieties of singing bird, familiarly known by this name. The one which is best known in its wUd state is the Carduelis canaria of Cuvier, and is very abundant in Madeira, where its characters and habits have been observed with much attention by Dr. Heineken. ' It builds,' says this naturalist, ' in thick, bushy, high shrubs and trees, with roots, moss, feathers, hair, &c. ; pairs in February ; lays from four to six pale blue eggs ; and hatches five, and often six times in the season. It is a delightful songster, with, beyond doubt, much of the nightingale's and sky-lark's, but none of the wood-lark's, song.' — 'A pure wild song from an island canary, at liberty, in full throat, in a part of the country so distant from the haunts of men that it is quite unsophisticated, is unequalled, in its kind, by any thing I have ever heard in the way of bird-music' The canary-bird was brought into Europe as early as the 16th century, and is supposed to have spread fi-om the coast of Italy, where a vessel, which was bringing to Leghorn a number of these birds, besides its merchandise, was wrecked. As, however, they were males chiefly which were thus introduced, they were for some time scarce ; aud it is only of late years that their educa- tion and the proper mode of treating them have been known Brandt', iHKi. 76 MADEIRA TO CAPE VERBS. colour of our common field or grey linnet, the yellow hue being the result of repeated crossings in its artificial state amongst us. The Canaries are amongst several other islands that were known to the ancients, but not discovered by modern Europe until the middle of the fifteenth century, when, after a brave resistance from the natives, the Spaniards conquered and have since retained them. Though not exactly in the route of the Argentina, nor in- tended to be touched at by any of the company's vessels, still being comparatively so near the Canaries, and especially of that particular one whereof mention is made by the great English bard, in verse as majestic as the phenomenon he speaks of : On the other side, Satan, alarmed, Collecting aU his might, dilated stood, Like Tener iff or Atlas, unremoved : His stature reach'd the sky, and on his crest Sat horror plumed. — Paradise Lost, Book iv. we must present a souvenir of our proximity to so celebrated a vicinage ; and we cannot do so in a more graceful or welcome form than the sketch prefixed to this chapter. The Cape Verds consist of seven principal islands, and were tolerably populous, but of late years have been subjected to a con- tinuous emigration to South America and the West Indies, where, like the hardy mountaineers from Madeira, they are found most useful in tilling the soil, and in other laborious occupations ; thus demonstrating the fallacy of the old notion, that laziness is the predominant element in the Spanish and Portuguese idiosyncrasy. What appears to be a present disadvantage, in regard to this human flight from the Verds, may prove beneficial hereafter, when the Ilheos (as they are called) return to their homes, pos- sessed of a little money wherewith to improve their social and moral condition. The islands produce wine, barilla, large quan- tities of orchilla weed, and cochineal, the cultivation of which is rapidly forming a more and more considerable item of export. Steam navigation will ere long bring them into much closer com- mercial contact with the world, and enhance the appreciation of MADEIBA TO CAPE VEKDS. 77 their products and natural advantages. The ch'mate is fine, though subject to occasional high temperature and frequent droughts. Despite the name Verds, suggestive of Arcadian animation, nothing can be more desolate than the appearance of the islands, as approached from the sea ■ bold, high rocks, against which the surge breaks violently, with mountains towering in the clouds, are general characteristics, to which those of the island of St. Vincent offer no exception. On our arrival the weather was thick, with drizzling rain, as we made Porto Grande ; and only cleared up in time to enable us to see Bird Island, a most remark- able sugar-loaf rock, standing right in the entrance of the bay, after passing which we reached the anchorage ground in a few minutes. A more convenient little harbour can hardly be imagined, being nearly surrounded with hills (or mountains as they may be called), which protect it from all winds save the westward, where Bird Island - stands as a huge beacon, most admirably adapted for a light-house, and on which it is to be hoped one will soon be placed. There is deep water close to the shore on most sides of the bay, that where the town is built being the shallowest ; and here some wooden jetties are run out, having very extensive coal and patent fuel depots close at hand, where these combustibles are put into iron lighters, and sent off to the vessels. So beautifully clear is the water in the bay that you can see the bottom at a depth of from twenty to thirty feet, literally alive with fish of all kinds, but for which the people seem to care very little, either for home consumption or export, though there is no doubt that, in the latter direction, a large business might be done with profitable results. : Porto Grande must become a most important coaling station, situated as it is midway between Europe and South America, and close to the African coast. Several important steam companies have already adopted it, viz., the Royal Mail (Brazil), the General Screw, the Australian, as also the South American, and General Steam Navigation Company, whilst occasional steamers are, like- wise, glad to touch at it. At the period of which 1 am writing. 78 MADEIRA TO CAPE VERDS. the Great Britain was the last that coaled here, oa her way to Australia. In order to meet this increased demand, a propor- tionate degree of activity and exertion is observable on shore ; and a large number of iron Ughters, carrying from 15 to 40 tons each, are now in constant requisition, loaded, and ready to be taken alongside the steamers the instant they cast anchor. Unfortu- nately, there is a very poor supply of water, the want of it having been the occasion of frequent emigration in the history of the islands ; but it is understood to be attainable at a slight expense ; and a small outlay conjointly made by the steam companies might not only procure a plentiful provision of this all-necessary element, but also other conveniences, essential to the comfort of passengers. There is no doubt that, as the place progresses, supplies of meat, fruit, and vegetables, will be forwarded thither from the neigh- bouring islands, which are so productive that there is a considerable export of corn; and the cattle are numerous. Until lately, fowls were only a penny a piece ; and turtles abound. Hitherto there has been no regular marketable demand for such things ; but one, and a large one too, is henceforth established, from the causes assigned, and will doubtless be regularly and economically supplied. The labourers here are chiefly free blacks and Kroomen, from the coast of Africa, most of whom speak English, and chatter away at a great rate, as they work in gangs, with a kind of boatswain over them, who uses a whistle to direct their toil — ^the movements of all the race of Ham to the days of Uncle Tom, being seemingly susceptible of regulation to musical noise of some sort or other ; whether the ' concord of sweet sounds,' or what would appear to be such to more refined ears, does not greatly matter. But for want of vegetation in its neighbourhood, a more pic- turesque little bay than Porto Grande can hardly be conceived. Towering a short distance above the town, is a kind of table mountain, some 2,500 feet high ; and at the opposite side, forming the south-west entrance, is another very lofty one, remarkable as representing the colossal profile of a man lying on his back, a la Prometheus. He has his ^•isage towards heaven, wherein there are MADEIHA TO CAPE VERBS. 79 generally soaring vultures enough to devour him up were he a trifle: less tender than volcanic granite. The features are perfect, even to the eyebrows ; and a very handsome profile it makes, though it does not appear that any tropical ^schylus has yet converted the material to the humblest legendary, much less epic, purpose. On the shore ground, forming the right side of the bay, looking towards the town, there is a neat little monument, erected to the lamented lady of Colonel Cole, who died here on her way home from India. The spot where she lies is, from its quietude and seclusion, most meet for such a resting-place, there being a small, conical hill behind, with a cottage or two near, and a sprinkling of vegetation on the low ground between, serving to 'keep her memory green' in the mind of many an ocean voyager in his halt at this half-way house between the younger and the elder world. This little town was thrown back sadly by the epidemic which afflicted it in 1850 and decimated the population. During its con- tinuance Mr. Miller, one of the few English residents, did so much in assisting the inhabitants, as to elicit from the late Queen of Portugal the honour of a knighthood, in one of the first orders in her dominions. It requires no small degree of patience and phi- lanthropy to aid the development of a place like this, labour- ing, as it does, under such great natural difficulties, and where everything has to be brought from a distance, there not being a tree or a blade of grass to be seen — ^nothing but dry, arid sand, or a burnt-up kind of soil. Undoubtedly, the heat is very great at times; and there are about three months of blowing, rainy weather, which is the only period when vessels might be subjected to incon- venience whilst coaling, as the southerly winds drive up a good deal of sea into the bay. There is an Enghsh Consul resident here, Mr. Eendall, who has done much to assist in bringing these islands into notice, and into comparative civilization ; and, by so doing, has many times over reimbursed this country in the cost of his stipend of £400 a year, saying nothing of the services he has performed to shipping, in the ordinary discharge of his duties. Cape Verds are a very numerous family of islands, called after 80 MADEIRA TO CAPE VERDS. a cape on the African coa^t (originally named Cabo Verde, or Green Cape, by the Portuguese) to which they lie contiguous, though at a considerable distance from each other in some cases. All are of volcanic formation — one, that of Fogo, or Fuego, once very celebrated as being ^-isible, especially in the night time, at an immense distance at sea. The islands generally do not possess any verv attractive points, being unlike Madeira and the Canaries in this respect, as well as in extent of population, that of the latter being four or five times more numerous than the others — say about 200,000 in one, 40,000 in the other case, though some state- ments make the inhabitants of the Yerds considerably more. The islands are occasionally subject to shocks of earthquakes; and there was rather a strong one at Porto Grande the night before we left, supposed on board our vessel to be thunder, from the noise it made, though we were not aware until next day that a shock had been felt on shore. The chief product is salt, a valuable article for vessels trading to South America, though it is here manufactured by the somewhat primitive process of letting the sea-water into the lowlands, where the sun evaporates it. Though Porto Grande, in St. Vincent, is the great place for shipping, and as such almost the only place of interest for passengers in transit, Ribeira Grande, in St. Jago, the principal island, and most southerly of the group, is the chief town, though it is at Porto Playa, (often touched at by ships on the Indian voyage), that the Governor General resides, particularly in the dry season. The island second in importance, in point of size, is St. Nicholas, where are some small manufactories, in the shape of cotton-stuffs, leather, stockings, and other matters. The orchilla weed, however, is the great object of governmental interest, and its monopoly is said to yield some £60,000 per annum ; the same wise poUcy that grasps at that interdicting the manufacture of wine, though grapes grow in profusion, and are of excellent quality for the production of a very acceptable beverage. Before leaving Porto Grande we had the satisfaction of seeing the General Screw Company's fine vessel, the Lady Jocelyn, MADEIRA TO CAPE VERDS. 81 arrive on the day she was due from India and the Cape of Good Hope, on her way to Southampton, with mails, and upwards of one hundred passengers. I went on board to give them the latest news from England, which was of course very acceptable, and the columns of the leading journals were eagerly devoured. In ex- change I received the ' Cape News,' which did not contain anything very particular, all being quiet there, our old perturbed friend, Sandilli, and his ebonized insurrectionists of the hills having apparently subsided into lilies-of-the-valley of peace and philan- thropy. The fine steamers belonging to the General Screw hue appeared destined to convey a large portion of passengers between England and India, in preference to the overland route ; and, certainly, when one could make the passage in about sixty days, direct, without change of conveyance, and with such splendid accommodation and such conveniences as these vessels aiford, it was only natural that they should fill well ; and a more comfortable, happy-looking group of passengers I never saw in any vessel. But, alack for the worthlessness of such moralizings and anti- cipations as these. This enterprising company have been obliged to abandon their Indian contract, owing to their coaling expenses being out of all proportion to the small sum they received for conveying the mails. The Cape of Good Hope contract, too, will most likely be given up, to the great detriment of that important colony, and at the rate we are progressing, steam communication to Australia does not promise to require the coaling facilities of St. Vincent ; still we are of opinion that this island must increase in importance, and that whenever coal freights revert to a moderate scale, steamers will gather there to and from the Southern Ocean. CHAPTER IV. CAPE ST. VINCEXT TO PERXAMBUCO. — A WORD ON THE CLIMATE OF THE BRAZOiS. Progress from Porto Grande to Pemambuco. — Steam trimnphs against adverse wind. — ^Fmiiher Superiority of Screw over Sail. — The Argentina in a South- Wester. — Apropos of Malaria, and something sanitary about Brazil. — The yellow fever : whence it comes, and what has become of it ? — Quarrels about Quarantine. — Brazil in advance of the old country in these matters. Lbavtsg Porto Grande, we shaped our rapid course southwards, to the Brazils, across the wide expanse of ocean lying between the two continents, and in all which prodigious waste of waters there is no port of call nearer than St. Helena, latitude, 15 deg. 55 min. S., long., 5. 44 E., unless we except the turtle-famed Island of Ascension, 800 miles X.E. of the Bonapartean place of exile, which itself is 1,200 miles from the coast of Lower Guinea. The trade winds vary a good deal in their extension towards the line, and in these latitudes commence the difficulties of a sailing ship, which has to deal with cahns and variable winds, blowing from all points of the compass, until such time as it catches the south- east trade, and is carried onwards. Our course lav towards Pernambuco, a place I visited for the first time upwards of thirty years back, and where I have often been since, but never in a steamer ; and only those who have experienced the difference between the two modes of propulsion, wind alone and steam, can fairly appreciate the value of the latter power. In former years, 40 to 50 days were considered an average passage to Pernambuco, lately reduced to about 30 to 35 by clipper-vessels, whilst a steamer will traverse the distance easily in 20 days, including stoppages to coal, and for any other reqvusite purpose. The consequence is, that numbers pass to and fro, who would never do so but for the facilities thus afforded, and which afford at the same time a further evidence of the trite truth, already frequently dwelt upon, and CAPE ST. VINCENT TO PBRNAMBUCO. 83 which will have to be still more frequently repeated, before we come to a close, that steam navigation becomes the great civilizer of the world, and brings distant nations so much nearer to our own shores. Our run from St. Vincent to Brazil was a very hard one. Losing the trade-wind the day after that on which we left the island, it was replaced by an implacable south-wester, against which our little vessel steamed vigorously, and we could barely carry fore and aft canvas. When, after eight days' tugging we arrived at Pernambuco, there was not an hour's coal left, a consideration which naturally rendered all on board anxious for some short time before. We shaved close past the Island of Fer- nando de Noronha, showing a conical hill, very Uke a ship under canvas at a distance. It is a penal settlement of Brazil, and consi- dered very healthy. Before describing other ports of call on our way to the River Plate, let us just take a glance at the Empire of Brazil, which, from its geographical position, immense fertihty and internal resources, is second only in importance to the great Empire of the West — the United States of North America. And, first, in regard to that primal consideration, health, as affected by the climate — a sub- ject on which many years' experience in my own person, and an attentive observation of the health of various classes of Europeans in the tropics enable me to speak with as much weight as should probably attach to the opinion of the majority of non-medical men on a medical topic ; and some remarks on that head in the chapter on Pernambuco will probably be found not altogether unworthy of the attention even of the faculty. Notwithstanding its well-known heat, in common with all other countries within the tropics, and especially a country so large a portion of which is directly beneath the equator, until within the last few years Brazil has been proverbially one of the healthiest climates in the world, and European resi- dents could indulge almost with impunity in the pleasures and luxuries of tropical life. Unfortunately vellow fever has changed G 2 84 CAPE ST. VINCENT TO PERNAMBUCO. all this, and rendered the vital statistics of the harbours and cities of the empire mournful catalogues of suffering and disaster, threatening serious injury to its national prosperity, if the scourge does not soon finally depart from its shores. This, it is devoutly hoped may be the case, and fortunately seems to be so at present, as far as can be augured from the reports now continued for a con- siderable time. Daring over thirty years' acquaintance with, and frequent residence in the country, I never experienced or heard of any existing epidemic worthy of the name, or such as could not be readily accounted for ; but the aspect of things, at the period of my last arrival, had sadly indeed changed, and the dread pesti- lence in its ravages seemed to spare neither the hardy European mariner, the native resident, the blacks, nor indeed any class of persons brought within its influence. How or from whence this mysterious visitation had arisen it was impossible to say. Some maintain that it was brought from the coast of Africa, and is a kind of retributive punishment for the iniquitous trafiic in human flesh carried on so extensively in the Brazils, until lately, that the government have shown themselves determined to put it down. But those who argue in this fashion forget that the same doctrine would apply in a thousand instances at home and abroad ; that the exceptions are unfortunately more numerous than the rule which would be thus set up by human presumption for the admea- surement of the justice of Omniscience ; and that it is always im- prudent, to say the least of it, to attempt to interpret the causes of such dispensations of Providence by our own notions of human requirement. Others deny the fever to be either epidemic or contagious, afiirming that it must be induced by some pecuhar atmosphere, generated, no one knows how, on the sea coast ; and it certainly is curious enough that vessels have had the sickness on board, whilst coming down the coast, before even touching at a BrazUian port. Whatever be the true cause of this affliction, it ought to teach the Brazilians a lesson not to abuse the bounties of Providence, which they enjoy in almost unexampled profusion, nr neglect those means of sanitary protection which are needful 0API5 ST. VINCENT TO PERNAMBtKU), Hi) even in the healthiest portions of Europe, No doubt much is required to be done in this way, and not in trying to enforce stupid quarantine regulations, which only add to suffering without arresting the arm of the devastator. Indeed, the Brazilian go- vernment has shown great good sense in eschewing the absurd formalities in question, therein again exhibiting an immense supe- riority of intelligence over the mother country ; for at Lisbon all the antiquated and superannuated encumbrances and ceremonials are rigorously exacted, though there be not even the shadow of a pretext for enforcing them ; for although a ship's bill of health may be perfectly clean, and although the ports she last sailed from may have been long known to be uninfected, still the cir- cumstance of their having been once tainted is sufficient warrant for the Portuguese procrastinators in exacting any amount of detention that may be agreeable to their caprice, whether the vessel be sail or steamer. THE EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. " Stern winter smiles on this auspicious clime ; The fields are florid in eternal prime ; From the bleak pole no winds inclement blow, Mould the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow ; But from the breezy deep the groves inhale Tlie fragrant murmurs of the eastern gale ! " CHAPTER V. EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. Rather prefatory and uot very particular, thougli somewhat personal. — Books on Brazil should be in Mediam Viam for the pre sent route, avoid- ing the Scylla of extreme succinctness and the Charybdis of needless dif- fuseness. — Object of the Author to attain the golden medium. — With what success, gentle reader, say ? — Discovery of the country by the Portuguese. Their subsequent disputes with, and iinal expulsion of the Dutch. — Extent and Population ; variety of soil and produce. — ^Difficulty of communication between the provinces and the capital, in consequence of extreme distance and imperfect means of travelling. — Extraordinary instance of the round- about nature of news circulating in Brazil some time ago.-Steam correct- ive of such sluggishness. — A glance at the Brazilian littoral, beginning with the Amazon, and ending with Rio Grande do Sul. — Para and its productions. — -Rio Negro, and its recent political elevation. — Maranham and its Mercantile importance. — Laird's steam leveller, on the singular stream of the Itapecuru. — Justice for England by Maranham Magistrates. — Piauhy and its products ; also Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte, and Paraiba. — Pernambuco revisited by the writer, and welcomed with a rhythmetical sentimental something concerning- ' Long, long, ago ! ' Let not the reader suppose, from the heading of this chapter, ' Empire of Brazil,' that he is going to encounter either a dilution or a condensation of Southey, Kidder, Weech, Mawe, Prince Adal- bert, St. Hilaire, and others, who have written at great length and in many languages, on so fertile and so expansive a theme. The object of the author in this portion of the volume is merely, by presenting at a glance the position and condition of Brazil generally, to enable those who accompany him in these pages the more readily to recognize the points he is about to put hereafter as the result of his own experience, more especially with reference to the machinery of commercial matters in Brazil. It is often the fault of men very full of a particular subject themselves to take for granted that the public either know a very great deal, or wish to know everything about it. Brazil has suffered much from both these causes in European, and especially in Enghsh estima- tion. Those familiar with and competent to write about it, have either presumed that the public were nearly as wise as themselves, and have passed over matters of great interest, believing them to EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. 89 be stale and exhausted, and dwelling upon the trivialities of personal travel by way of varying a beaten track : — or, on the other hand, the exhaustive process has been applied, and historic and topo- graphic disquisition have been employed with a minuteness that would be only tolerated in Enghsh county gazetteers or family chronicles. The consequence is that all but the student or the virtuoso in such matters have been repelled from their perusal. When the idea of writing this book occurred to the author — an idea suggested by frequent inquiries for works that should, in a brief compass, give a tolerable notion of things to be met with and that ought to be known in a route of yearly increasing import- ance between two quarters of the globe — it was suggested that he should steer between the two extremes just indicated. He has endeavoured to do so ; and without further circumlocution, he places before the reader the means of deciding with what success. Brazil,* as already noticed, was discovered by Cabral on his way to India in 1500 (although it has been asserted that the coast was visited by Martin Belem in 1484) who at first supposed it to be a * Brazil, as before stated, was originally so named from its valuable dye-wood, called Braziletto or ' Cisaljuna Braziletto,' or Pemambuco, Wood of Saint Martha, or Sipaii, according to tbe place which produces it, and by Linnaeus, Ccesalpiuia custa, which was for many years the richest dye in Europe, and from which the famous Turkey red colours were produced, rivalling the ancient Tyrian pm'ple, and, like it, passing into oblivion, after vast popularity; for other drugs ha^'ing been substituted, Brazil wood became comparative! v little used. It was a close monoply of the government, who derived a large revenue from its sale, from £100 a ton upwards being the current price in London, and only 8 years ago 4,500 tons were imported into Great Britain. Brazil timber also possesses qualities not generally known, one of which is mentioned by Sir W. G. Ouseley, and accoimts for the infrequency of conflagrations in some of the cities of South America, as compared with what happens in the northern portion of the continent, where fire brigades are among the most prominent institutions of the country, and yet do not by any means prevent the mischief they are meant to guard against. He says : — ' A proof of the in- combustible nature of Brazil wood was afforded at this house (the Mangueiras) previous to my arrival at Eio de Janeu'O, when it was occupied by Baron Palencia, at that time Russian Minister to the Imperial Court. One night an attempt was made to set fire to the outside door-like shutters of one of the windows, with » view, doubtless, to getting into and robbing the apartments. In the morning was discovered a heap of stiU smoking, combustible materials, partially consumed, applied to the outside of the shutter, the planks of which were little injured, although their sm'face was charred, as the fire had been in actual contact with the wood probably for some hours.' Brazil wood (tlie dye now so called) is very small sized — sticks, comparatively speaking, — and is not used at all for building purposes, being mueli too valuable. The ordinary timber of the country is of quite another description. 90 EMPIRE OP BRAZIL. large island on the coast of Africa* The reports as to her mineral wealth not being at that time encouraging, little progress was made in colonizing Brazil until 1542, when the Portuguese rulers sent out Thomas de Souza as first governor, who built San Sal- vador, (or Bahia, as it is now called, capital of the province of the same name,) and materially aided the mission of the Jesuits in civilizing the Indian population. This Portuguese possession was afterwards disputed both by the Spaniards and the Dutch, and the latter succeeded in appropriating several of the northern provinces, viz. : — Ceara, Seregipe, Pernambuco, and Bahia, which they held for a considerable time during the 17th century, and did much towards the permanent prosperity of the country, by build- ing forts, enlarging towns, and carrying out a number of useful public works, which remain as monuments of their laboriousness and perseverance to this day, especially in the capitals of the two last-named provinces. jMuch gallantry and patriotism were shown by the native Brazihan and Portuguese residents in their conflict with the Hollanders, ending in the final expulsion of the latter from the entu-e coast, although this event may be considered a misfortune to the country itself, in losing so industrious and pains- taking a race. The Brazilian empire extends from about 4 degrees north, to 33 degrees south, latitude ; its extreme length is from 2,500 to 2,600 miles, and breadth above 2,000 at the widest part ; it contains some 2,500,000 square miles of territory, comprising every variety of soil and culture, and is possessed of considerable variety of climate. Its population has been variously estimated at from six * Of the simultaneousness of these discoveries, Humboldt says : — * The course of gi'eat events, like the results of natural phenomena, is ruled by eternal laws, with few of which we liave any perfect knowledge. The fleet which Emanuel, King of Portugal, sent v< India, under the command of Pedro Alvarez Cabral, on the course discovered Ijy Gania, was unexpectedly driven on the coast of Brazil on the 22nd April, 1500. From the zeal which the Portuguese had manifested since the expedition of Diaz in 1487, to circum- navigate the Cape of Good Hope, a recmTence of fortuitous circumstances, similar to those exercised by oceanic currents on Cabral's ships, could hardly fail to manifest itself. The African discoveries would thus probably have brought about that of America south of the Equator; and thus Robertson was justified in saj-ing that it was decreed in the destinies of mankind that the new continents slinuld be made known to Em-oiTean navi- i^ators before tlie close of the fifteenth century.' EMPIRE OP BEAS5IL. 9] to seven millions ; but no data exist from which one can form more than an approximate calculation. Out of this number, one half may be set down as slaves, and the other half mixed races, from the native-born Portuguese downwards to the pure Indian. One of the great draw-backs hitherto experienced in administering the government of the Brazils has been the distance of the towns and provinces from the metropolis, Rio Janeiro ; and this has more especially applied to the northern provinces, from Para to Per- nambuco, where, owing to the almost constant prevalence of a northerly current, sailing-vessels took a very long time in getting down the coast ; so that, in the absence of communication by land, the intelhgence of disturbances or temporary rebellion only reached the seat of government a considerable period after the first out- break. An extraordinary and almost incredible instance of this occurred on the occasion of the formidable revolt of the province of Para, the first news of which was received at Rio Janeiro by way of England, sixty days after a British sailing ship had left Para, and another recrossed the Atlantic, and anchored in the port of the Brazilian capital, no ship, within all that period, having been able to make way from Para to Rio against the monsoon and current and wind that prevails for a great part of the year, blowing from the antarctic circle towards the equator. Perhaps the aston- ishment created by this state of things will, however, be triflingly mitigated if the reader will bear in mind that Brazil is as large as nearly a dozen Great Britains ; and will also recollect what vague- ness, incertitude, and delay characterise the receipt of intelligence in London from Constantinople and St. Petersburgh, notwith- standing special steamers, express trains, electric telegraphs, go- vernment couriers, and time-and-space-annihilating editors of innumerable newspapers, at both ends and all along the whole line of operations. Steam navigation has however in a great measure remedied this evil, as it has done so many others ; and news is now regularly transmitted between Rio Janeiro and Para by a steam company, liberally subsidized by the government, the former being bound to dispatch a vessel once a fortnight, calling at all the 92 EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. ports. In the absence of internal roads or communications along the coast, steam must very properly be regarded as the main-stay of the executive, at the same time that it offers the needful faci- lity for provincial deputies attending the sittings of the Rio cham- bers. Steam, valuable everywhere, is invaluable here, and may, indeed, be looked upon- as the great civilizer and regenerator of a country like Brazil, with a sea-coast extending nearly 4,000 miles from north to south ; while other tributary lines of steamers are being established in the innumerable bays and rivers. The northernmost point is the mighty Amazon, which is being ex- plored and opened to general traffic by another steam company, established at Rio Janeiro, and likewise aided with an ample subsidy from the government ; though from the terms in which certain North American and other writers, to some of whom we shall have to allude hereafter, speak of the Brazilian authorities, it might be inferred that not a particle of enterprise of this kind is tolerated, much less encouraged. Considering that it is only 20 years since the first funnel darkened the Brazilian waters, this wonder-working agent of steam may fairly be said to be only in its infancy, and its progeny will no doubt ere long be greatly multiphed on the coast and up the vast fluvial arteries of the em- pire. A brief glance along the littoral boundaries of this almost boundless dominion will soon shew the transcendent importance of steam to such a region. The northernmost province of the Brazils is Para, with a capital of the same name, otherwise called Belem. situated on the north-eastern bank" of the Amazon, 80 miles from its entrance. From the cause already assigned (distance from the seat of government) the progress of this important province, containing upwards of a milhon square miles, much of which is yet unknown, has been greatly retarded by civil wars and an unruly population. Its chief productions are corn, caoutchouc (or gum elastic), ipecacuanha, nuts, &c. ; but there is no doubt that the navigation of the Amazon will lead to great additional sources of export, and soon render this province one of the most flourishino- EMPIRE OP BRAZIL. 93 in the empire, as its immense fertility, miscellaneous produce, and the incalculable advantages of having the greatest river in the world traversing its entire length, so well entitle it to be. The population, of whom some ten thousand are probably Indians, amounts to about 350,000. Of their condition, and that of the province and its capital, we sliall speak in detail under the head of the Amazon ; as also of Rio Negro, an internal province situated on the Amazon, and communicating with the seaport of Para. It has only lately -been raised to the dignity of a province. Maranhao, or Maranham, or San Luis, follows on the line of sear-coast, with a large, well-built capital, similarly named, but is not very densely populated, containing probably not more than a quarter of a million inhabitants to an area of nearly 70,000 square miles, the soil being well watered and fertile, and, like nearly the whole of the Brazilian empire, producing wood of the finest kind for almost every purpose. It has always been looked upon as a steady-going place, although its progress has not kept pace with other more favoured provinces to the southward. Its chief pro- duction is cotton, of which the export is considerable, averaging about 30,000 bags per annum, and rice and sarsaparilla also form considerable items. The town is situated on an island, some 30 miles from the coast, with rather a dangerous navigation to it, though of easy access for small vessels, a couple of forts defending the entrance. It is said to contain a population of 30,000, which is probably an exaggeration. Its buildings, however, are on a scale not unworthy of such numbers, and consist of a theatre, hospital, several convents, and schools of a very superior order. About 200 miles up the River Itapicuru is the important town of Caxias, formerly Aldeas Altas, and which, though suffering itself considerably in the civil wars of 1838-40, has nearly double the population of Maranham. Its connection with the latter has been greatly accelerated by means of a small steamer running between the two places, and called the Caxicnse, built by the constructor of the Argentina, Mr. John Laird, of Birkenhead, under peculiar 94 EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. reservation as to her draught of water ; which was not to be more than three feet, and even this appears too much for the shallow places in the river during the dry season, though she seems to have been eminently successful in other respects, and of great utility, not only in going up and down the river with freight and passengers, but also in towing vessels and small craft. The scenery on the Itapicuru is described as most romantic, the banks being high, and lined with towering trees, in many places almost meeting across. The navigation however is very imcertain and irregular, as will have been inferred from what we have said of the necessity of exceedingly shallow-bottomed steamers, in the dry season, when there is not more than from two to three feet of water in some places, whilst in the rainy season it wiU rise to 20 or 30 feet, inundating, or rather irrigating, the country round to some extent, and rendering it, like the Delta of the NUe, and for the same reason, uncommonly fertile, so much so, indeed, as to leave little scope for industry ; for, by merely striking a few plants in the mud, two or three crops a-year can be obtained, more than sufficient for the wants of the inhabitants. On the banks of the river are many large fazendas, or estates, where cotton only was formerly grown, but they are now trying sugar likewise, and with encouraging assurance of remunerative results. Ascending the river, the first important place arrived at is the Villa de Eosario, situated in a fertile district, and where many influential planters reside. Next in rotation are Paioul and St. Nicholas ; afterwards, there comes Itapicaru-Merim, where vessels, drawing 4 feet of water can go in the driest season ; but beyond the latter-named place, not more than two feet and a half. Nearly all the produce shipped at Maranham comes down this river in canoes, of about 40 tons register, carrying 300 bags of cotton ; and in the dry season this voyage will take three months to per- form what the steamer does now in less than four days ! In the rainy season these river craft will come down much more quickly; but the average time then occupied in going up is still greater, owing to the strength of the freshes in the river, the vessel having KMPIRK OF BEAZIL. 95 to be hauled up by bodily force, ropes being taken from tree to tree, and requiring a crew for the purpose. This slight sketch of the difficulties attending the navigation of one of the internal rivers of the Brazils by native craft, will show what may be effected by steam, even under the most unfavourable circumstances of a very shallow stream ; and what may we not expect from such a communication being established along the mighty Amazon ? Maranham was a short time back the scene of a most brutal murder of an English resident ; and, to the credit of the local government, four of the miscreants concerned in it were hanged, the force of which observation will be understood by those who know the difficulty of administering justice in a country like Brazil, where, owing to the vast distance of one town from another, and the consequent difficulty of sustaining the vigilance of pursuit, and the facilities for baffling it, crimes of this nature may be expected to go long unpunished, if the perpetrators be not caught almost red-handed in the very deed of blood. The acting President of Maranham is represented as most energetic and efficient, having done much to improve the town and maintain civil order in his district. His official residence is a very fine one, and should have been mentioned among the imposing structures of the town, or rather city, for such Maranham is, at least in the English sense of the term, being the residence of a bishop, and containing an episcopal palace of considerable dimensions, and of striking architectural appearance. The place, and some of its people, still retain slight traces of its French origin, having been founded by that nation, as late as the end of the 17th century ; and, it is said, that that language is better spoken in Maranham than in any other part of Brazil, the capital itself not excepted. Piauhy. — Beyond Maranham lies the little province of this name, which has no port or outlet ; but in the district of Para- hyba, 100 miles to the eastward of Maranham, are extensive plains, extending over 6,000 square miles, watered by numerous rivers and covered with cattle, which can be l)ouglit exceedingly cheap. Much carne seca (dried beef) is cured here and sent to 96 EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. Maranliam, as well as cattle, in beautiful condition. It is easy to imagine what an important element of supply this wUl be to other parts of the empire not so well provided, so soon as better means of transit exist. Unlike most other portions of Brazil, Piauhy is deficient in wood ; but, in addition to its fine pastures, it produces in great abundance maize, millet, sugar, rice, cotton, jalap, ipe- cacuanha, and some silver, iron, and lead, but none of these yield anything like what may be expected when there is a popu- lation something better proportioned to the area we have named, for at present the inhabitants do not exceed 70,000. Its capital, Oeyras, has but about 3,000 inhabitants, but contains some re- markable ecclesiastical evidences of the former presence of the Jesuits. Ceara Is a very sandy district, but with a good back country where many cattle are bred, but which suffers much from occasional drought. Ceara exports a fair quantity of hides, some cotton, and fustic. The town of Aracati is situated on a picturesque river, but with a very bad bar entrance, on which several vessels have been lost ; they, therefore, now generally load outside, some miles higher uj) the coast, where an indent admits of shelter, and to which the cotton is taken in jangadas (native craft.) Though the heat in this province is excessive in summer, the climate is nevertheless healthy. Its population is somewhat about 200,000 ; and gold, as well as copper, iron, and salt, is among its yet very imperfectly ascertained mineral resources. The town of Ceara is quite on the coast, and has no harbour, or protection, beyond a reef of rocks that forms a kind of breakwater, within which vessels can ride at anchor. It is a curious thing that the reef, of which this constitutes a part, extends along nearly the whole coast of Brazil, from Cape St. Roque to the Abrolhos, near Rio Janeiro, and is of the same hard coral nature. In many places an entrance through, or a break in the reef, enables vessels to get to small ports inside, and jangadag can sail along the coast, within these reefs for hundreds of miles, entirely protected from the sea, which rolls in and breaks upon tliem with a deafening noise. EMPIRE OP BRAZIL. 97 Rio Grande do Norte, a name derived from the river which, after an east course, enters the Atlantic at Natal, its capital, possesses a good harbour, but has little direct trade, procuring its supplies chiefly from Pernambuco. Compared with any of the provinces already spoken of, it is well peopled, there being about 140,000 inhabitants to 32,000 square miles. A few cargoes of Brazil wood were formerly shipped here, being the best quality produced in the whole empire, and prized accordingly, till it fell into disrepute from the causes we have already specified, in speak- ing of that once-prized ingredient in the art of dyeing. Like Piauhy, Rio Grande do Norte is favourable to cattle-rearing ; but exports of that kind, in the shape of hides, tallow, or jerked be'ef, are scanty, because of the paucity of means of transport. Paraiba is a very fertile province, bordering on that of Per- nambuco, and vastly better peopled than the one last described, as it has a population of 70,000 to an area of 9,000 square miles ; and cattle of European breeds are raised in considerable numbers with great facility. There is a fine river, some 20 miles in length, leading up to the town, of the same name as the province, where vessels can load alongside the trapixes. The bar entrance is rather intricate, but there is very good anchorage just inside. Paraiba exports largely of cotton, and also of sugar and hides. The upper city is extensive, with large, well-built houses; while the lower, or commercial part of the town, is also extremely good, possessing a splendid Government warehouse, and the whole indicating quondam prosperity, as well as affording additional proof of the industry and perseverance of the Dutch, who formerly held this province in conjunction with Pernambuco. The treasury, in particular, is considered a very fine building ; its educational establishments are also excellent ; and in the neighbourhood of the town are some of the best-managed coffee plantations probably in the empire. Pernambuco. — We now approach the most flourishing and re- markable province in the Brazils, upon which the writer hopes he may be pardoned if he descant at some length, as a place inti- H 98 EMPIRE (IE BRAZIL. mately mixed up with all his lioyish ideas and first impressions; where he spent many happy days, and always returned with con- siderable pleasure, although, on this occasion, alas! very few of the old familiar f;ices he once knew any longer arrested his vision, as he cast his eye along the well-known mart and into the woll- remembcred homes of other days ; for a cpiarter of a century makes a terrilile void indeed in the limited ranks of one's countrv- nien who take up their aliode in such places. j\[usical tlie rippliii;,; < >f tlif tarily current, Musical tlie murmur t )t' the wind-s^vept trees, jNIusical the cadence Oi the friendly voices. Laden with the sweetness Of the songs of old. KNTiiANCK TO i'i.:i:NAiiri'co jrAinmi ]:. CHAPTER VI. PERNAMBUCO. That Strain Again! ' — ' It hath a dying fall.' — ' Auld Lang Syne, or 'tis thirty years ago'. — Aspect of Pernambuco from the Sea. — Tripartite division of the City, Recife, St. Antonio, and Boa Vista. — ^Note on the old town of Olinda and its new namesake, the late steamerNo. 2 of this A 1 liney^March . of improvement by land and sea, in respect to ships and city. — Such Brazil- ian progress a lesson for West Indians. — ^Frugality and personal activity on the one hand, prodigality and vicarial mismanagement on the other, being the real difference between the position of the planters in either place. — Sugar Manufactuiing improvements. — De Mornay's Patent Cane Crushing Mill, and its Merits. — Appreciation of the invention in the West Indies as well as Brazil. — Exports of Pernambuco to United States. — Political and Martial feeling of the Pernambucanos. — ^Pecularities of the Population, soil, and produce. — ^Unique effects of rain and drought in the Matta. — Hygienic hints to the consumptive and the yellow feverish. — Initiation of the Railway Era, by the De Mornays, in Pernambuco. — Immense importance of the proposed line, and certainty of its success, sustained by British Capital, and specially supported by the Emperor per- sonally, and the Bra^lian executive. — Mr. Borthwick's report on the project. — The wi-iter's anticipation that it will be successful, and expecta- tion that the reader will approve of his suggestion for making it so. — Note on Planters' life in America. It is a trite remark, that there is probably no more permanent or abiding impression on the mind than that created by first visiting a country, whose chmate, people, habits, and ideas, differ essen- tially from those we have been brought up with and are accus- tomed to regard as a part of our nature. After q, lapse of more than thirty years, the sensations I experienced on my first arrival here are as fresh in my memory as if occurring only yesterday. The voyage, which occupied no less than fifty-six days ; the eager anxiety for a sight of land ; the first view of the foreign port and outlandish looking craft ; and then the pilot coming on board with a crew of blacks, seen for the first time ; the debarkation amongst strange faces of every possible shade of colour ; with the curiously formed streets and singular houses, filled with a population of hues so different from that left behind — every one apparently shouting at the top of their voices ; whilst hundreds of rainbow- PBRNAMBUCO. 101 tinted parrots, and harlequin-skinned animals, more numerous than the menagerial knowledge of a boy of fifteen beheved had ever appeared out of the Ark, all helped to aggravate the preterna- tural and perpetual din — the vrhole scene, as may be imagined, bemg such as to become indelibly engraven on such a spectator for the remainder of his Ufe. It vfas a season of eager curiosity and enjoyment. ' Youth at the prow and Pleasure at the helm ' look only to the bright side of life's' river ; but neither time nor distance has since dimmed the halo that seemed then to envi- ron the portals of this first launch into active being. Tempora iimtantur et nos mutamur in illis ; still the characteristic pecu- liarities of a new country and new scenes remain fixed in our minds, as if no change had ever come over the spirit of our dream ; and such is Pernambuco still to me, though in many respects greatly improved, altered, and enlarged, as I shall proceed to show forthwith. Approaching Pernambuco from the main, it appears, like Venice, to rise gradually out of the waters, though, unlike the ' Sea Cybelc, fresh from ocean,' we cannot perhaps exactly descry her ' tiara of proud towers,' at least in the sense apphed to the mistress of the Mediterranean ; but still the reality of the resemblance is quite sufficient to justify the comparison. You first discern church- steeples, domes, lofty houses, glittering in the sun ; then shipping, and the general features of a commercial town, become visible. The harbour is quite a natural one, formed by a reef of coral rocks, already described as running along nearly the whole extent of the Brazilian coast, and supposed to be continued inland, where the coast projects beyond the line of the reef. At Pernambuco it has positively all the appearance of a wall some yards wide, just as if erected by the industry of man, and extending along the whole sea-front of the town, breaking off the swell of the ocean, and leaving the water in the harbour or creeks perfectly smooth, except sometimes at high water, and at periods of high tide, when the sea, finding its way over the reef, causes a little bub- bhng inside. The entrance is through a kind of break in the reef. 102 PERNAMBUCO. which also forms the mouth of a river, intersecting the town, but not going any great distance inland ; — ^passing through and round- ing the reef, in an instant you are in smooth water, and in Per- nambuco harbour. The width of the passage is not much above 200 yards, taken from the reef to the shore, and this is lined with quays and wharves, which have been much extended of late years, and a dredging-machine is now constantly at work, deepen- ing the channels, which are influenced by the current and freshes of the river. The bar formerly allowed only of the passage of vessels drawing 14 feet, but, they say, it is now quite safe for those of 15 to 15J feet ; and hopes are entertained that it can be deepened so as to admit the largest class of vessels, which would be a boon of immense importance to the place. The town, or city, of Pernambuco is divided into three compart- ments : — ^the first, called the Recife (literally Reef), being that directly opposite the reef, and where most of the foreign com- mercial firms are located ; crossing a wooden bridge, is St. Anto- nio, inhabited chiefly by shopkeepers ; and a well-built and exten- sive compartment further on is Boa Vista, to which you cross by another long wooden bridge, but protected with a light iron rail- ing at the sides. The river runs under these bridges very rapidly at times, and with a snake-like course, almost insulating the two first divisions. From Boa Vista good roads branch off to the country, and a new one has latterly been made to OHnda* along the margin of the river, lighted with lamps, &c., a very * It is after this beautiful quarter of the city of Peniambuco that the second vessel of the ocean line of the South American and General Steam Kavigatiou Company was called. Olinda ia situated on several luUs, clothed with the most luxuriant tropical vegetation, from the midst of wMch the con- vents, churches, snow-white cathedral, and numerous private residences, mostly of the same colour, are seen to great effect, though, on a near approach, in a sadly decayed state. Olinda, however, may be regarded in something of the light of an East End to St. Antonio, the West End, or offtcial quarter, where are situate the principal governmental departments and offices ; while Recife is the actual place of business, and where aU the foreign merchants are lo- cated The value of the exports from Pernambuco annually exceeds a million and a half sterling; and that of the imports from England is about ^£800,000. PEBNAMBUCO. 103 useful and praiseworthy undertaking on the part of the govern- ment. The town is generally well-built ; lofty houses whitewashed, with red tiles, and plenty of verandahs, and windows to admit the cool breezes ; and for miles in every direction, towards the interior, are comfortable villas, some very large, and constructed with consi- derable taste. When I first came here in 1821 only two or three car- riages existed in the place, old-fashioned ones belonging to equally old-fashioned Portuguese, and I should suppose something like the ' dormeuse ' of the Grand Prior of Alcoba§a, so graphically des- cribed by Beckford, when he travelled with that dignitary to the grand abbey of Batalha [vide Lisbon, page 36] ; now there are some 200 veliicles, of all sorts and sizes, and many very good ones for hire, besides those belonging to private individuals ; and no doubt taste and luxury would be still more extended in this direction if it were not for the narrow archways through which the Recife is traversed. In all respects, Pernambuco has been not only a thriving but an improving place, so much so that one who would visit it now for the first time could hardly believe it to be the same town of which Koster, a comparatively short time ago, said that the shops were without windows, light being admitted only by the door, and that there were no distinctions of trades, and no municipal regulations worthy of being so called. Extensive waterworks have been constructed, which bring good water some distance to the town ; and doubtless, in a few years, it will be lighted with gas. A bank has been estabhshed on a safe and respectable footing ; and the merchants have their news-room, as a sort of rendezvous for busi- ness, instead of an Exchange, whilst extensive quays have been formed on the margin of the rivers that would serve as models for the conservators of ' Father Thames.' The increased production of sugar is something marvellous ; from 10,000 tons in 1821 to nearly 70,000 during the last year, with the certainty of a still further progressive increase. And this circumstance is adduced as an argument, by the old "West 104 PERNAMBUOO. Indian interest, to show the great injustice of our pret ports and exports ) bearing about a re- lative proportion to these figures. COFFEE, SUGAR, AND HIDES, EXPORTED FROM RIO JANEIRO, IN 1847, 1848, 1849, 1850, 1851, 18oJ, 1853. The total number of bags and barrels of cofi*ee exported from Rio Janeiro in 1847 was 1,650,300 ; in 1848, 1 ,706,544 ; in 1849, 1,451,715 ; in 1850, 1,392,361 ; in 1861, 1,993,255 ; in 1862, 1,899,861 ; and in 1853, 1,667,520. The total number of cases of sugar was, in 1847, 3,136 ; in 1848, 2,371 ; in 1849, 3,212 ; in 1^50, 6,465 ; in 1861, 4,752 ; in 1852, 9,012 ; in 1853, 2,667. The total number of hides imported in 1847 amounted to 268,492 ; in 1848 to 348,947; in 1849 to 299,262; in 1860 to 195,706; m 1851 to 173,746; in 1852 to 210,223 ; and in 1853 to 75,8.52. In 1853 were also exported 21,808 boxes and barrels of coffee; 17,566 bags of sugar; 6,049 half-tanned hides ; 222,.577 ox and cow-horns; 1,050 pipes of nmi ; 25,825 rolls of tobacco ; 9,935 bags of rice ; 32,610 planks of jacaranda ; 7,085 barrels of tapioca ; and 71,680 lbs. of ipecacuanha. The shipments of coffee to the United States in 1863 were 853,023 bags against 960,850 in 1852, 996,552 in 1861, 638,801 in 1850, 6.34,565 in 1849, 806,907 in 1848, 729,742 in 1847, 727,263 in 1846, 551,276 m unimportant, these countries are at present so thoroughly devoid of means of intercommunication that advantages could not fail to be derived by the esta- blishment of this line. At present, a person wishing to leave a Brazilian port for the West Indies wiU generally find that he must go via England or the United States, and this even from the most northern ports. The importance of such an undertaking to Brazil would be immense, and I have no doubt that the Brazilian government would be fuUy alive to the advantages they would derive from it, and that they would be ready to grant a liberal amount for mails, &c. — Contributed. EIO JANEIRO. 171 1845, 534689 in 1844, 543,239 in 1843, 357,278 in 1842, 427,096 in 1841, 296,705 in 1840, 344,863 in 1839, 265,656 in 1838, 127,032 in 1837, 313,934 in 1836, 264,721 in 1835, 171, 737 in 1834, and 236,708 in 1833. These statements are made up from the vessels' mani- fests, excepting coffee, which, from the beginning of 1834, is from the daily shipments at the Consulado. The yearly exportation of coffee was, in 1820, 97,600 bags ; in 1821, 105,386; in 1822, 152,048 ; in 1823, 185,000; in 1824, 224,000; in 1826, 183,136 ; in 1826, 260,000; in 1827, 350,900; in 1828, 369,117; in 1829, 375,107; in 1830, .391,785; in 1831,448,249; in 1832, 478,950 ; in 1833, 661,692 ; in 1834, 560,759 ; in 1835, 647,438; in 1836,715,893; in 1837, 657,005 ; in 1838, 766,696 ; in 1839, 889,324; in 1840, 1,068, 418; in 1841, 1,028,368; in 1842, 1,174,659 ; in 1843, 1,183,W6; m 1844, 1,269,381; in 1845, 1,187,591; and in 1846, 1,522,434 bags. BRITISH PKODUCE AND MANUFACTUKB9 EXPORTED FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM TO BRAZIL, IN THE YEARS 1849, 1860, 1861, AND 1862. Alkali Apothecary wares Apparel and slops Arms and ammunition Bacon and hams Beef and pork Beer and ale .. Blacking Books Brass and copper manufactures Butter Cabinet and upholstery wares Carriages Coals, cinders, and ctilm Cordage Cotton manufactures Cotton yam Earthenware Glass Hardware and cutlery Hats Iron and steel Lead and shot Leather Linen manufactures Machinery and mill- work Musical instruments Oil, linseed, rapeseed, and hempseed Painters' colours Plate, jewellery, and watches Saddlery and harness Saltpetre Silk manufactures Soap and candles Stationery Tin and pewter Umbrellas and parasols Woollen manu&ctures Miscellaneous Total 1849. £ 8,369 6,994 21,189 27,747 950 402 14,770 1,889 3,625 32,696 82,889 482 821 23,036 3,972 1,616,137 2,025 85,278 10,432 80,389 463 94,792 11,457 10,016 131,412 14,817 6,612 10,085 13,230 8,948 2,566 9,618 14,554 3,429 3,532 16,049 8,507 180,699 30,137 1860. £ 10,591 8,858 28,475 39,707 865 70 17,155 1,610 996 36,324 65,279 648 386 20,320 1,294 1,546,670 1,041 41,268 11,277 80,973 325 78,105 18,967 11,002 167,054 29,001 6,776 6,906 8,249 7,966 3,133 6,446 14,296 6,648 4,248 12,562 7,764 223,002 33,001 1851, £. 13,213 7,272 45,891 37,786 7,756 353 26,407 1,532 750 45,346 88,857 799 300 26,118 1,428 2,016,086 173 54,688 15,320 108,406 1,326 ^4,488 11,793 11,716 296,925 23,715 12,725 10,810 7,776 16,115 4,188 6,860 23,624 2,404 7,085 21,084 5,290 446,062 37,323 1852. £ 11,752 10,667 49,290 23,441 869 12 14,971 966 538 47,212 96,861 876 388 24,248 424 1,891,374 191 90,359 10,866 104,129 1,376 109,876 11,703 18,332 250,243 18,816 11,018 12,091 9,604 22,016 7,333 4,826 24,709 3,116 6,293 12,310 8,184 611,690 41,915 2,444,716 2,544,837 3,618,684 3,464,394 EIO STATISTI09.- -EXTEACTED FROM RIO MERCANTILE JOURNAL, JANUARY, 1854. IMPORT. Shipping, 1862.-793 vessels 198,063 tons J Conveying cargo. „ 1863.— 750 „ 186,984 „ ) i b b Besides a large number of vessels calling in, &c. 172 RIO JANEIHO. EXPORT. Shipping, 1852. — 1173 vessels 4i8,85i tons. 1853.— 1004 „ 387,470 „ Of which 560 vessels with produce, 68 with foreign merchandise, and 139 with their inward cargoes ; 15 in ballast had foreign destinations, 15 with their inward car- goes, 2 in port laden with produce, and 205 in ballast, proceeded to other parts of the empire. COASTING TRAIJK FOK 1853. Import (exclusive of 341 steamboats) 2094 vessels 207,872 tons Export (exclusive of 330 ditto) 2036 „ 202,994 ., JOI.N'T-STOCK COJIl'ASIES. The amount of paid-up capital is £2,300,000 sterling. CUSTOMS REVENUE FOE 1853, 12,479,437 reis, or about a million and a half sterling. The revenue in 1852 exceeded that of 1853 by about £250,000, owing to discouragements of trade by disputes amongst sellers and buyers ; and the total revenue of 1852 exceeded that of 1847 and 1848 about 50 per cent. The Consulado revenue for 1853 was 2,208,059 reis, or about £250,000 sterling. RETURN OF TRADE BETWEEN LIVERPOOL AND BRAZIL FOR THE YEAR 1853. Number of Ports. Vessels. Tonnage. Para 11 2,058 Maranham 17 5,260 Pemambuco 40 10,506 Bahia 32 10,320 Rio Janeiro 84 25,502 184 53,646 tiUANTITlES OF THE PRINCIPAL .VKTICLES LMPORTED INTO THE UNITED KINGDOM FROM BRAZIL IN THE SAME YEARS. Annattu Capivi Cocoa Coffee Hides * ... Horns India rubber Isinglass Ipecacuanha Kum Sarsaparilla Sugar Tallow Tapioca "Wood, Brazil Fustic . Rosewood .., Zebra Wool, cotton ... 1849. 1850. 1851. 1852. cwts. 462 648 596 1,188 363 311 574 956 lbs. 1,391,162 1,204,572 1,949,666 2,244,713 „ 6,376,651 1,779,799 7,888,638 3,053,202 cwts. 207,199 157,003 150,585 94,733 8,288 6,247 6,843 2,856 4,605 5,967 11,053 12,813 515 610 547 352 lbs. 5,126 1,638 13,664 14,703 gallons 1,139 33,962 20,712 1 lbs. 6,220 12,247 17,810 16,517 cwts. 561,660 362,686 720,424 289,999 23,925 4,559 6,246 6,960 10,989 11,442 6,288 tons 329 12 57 135 689 669 438 382 3,649 3,022 3,200 3,676 86 60 89 187 lbs. 30,738,133 30,299,982 19,339,104 26,506,144 BRAZIL COFFEE IMPORTED INTO THE UNITED STATES FOK THE YEAR 1863. New York 226,985 Boston 3,293 Philadelphia 123,007 Baltimore 199,314 New Orleans 311,360 Total 862,949 Each bag consists of 5 arrobas, or 1601bs. English weitrht eacK, the gross value beinc upwards of £2,000,000. RIO JANEIRO. 173 Since the foregoing data were publisiied, they have been sum- marised and annotated by a very competent authority in London, and the results issued for private circulation among Anglo Brazil- ians. The document so published presents, in a very succinct and comprehensive form, the financial status of the empire ; and a fur- ther condensation of it, to suit these pages, cannot but be accept- able to such readers as the previous chevaux de frize of figures may repel from the perusal of what is really most interesting fiscal and instructive political facts. The National Debt of Brazil dates from 1824, when the impe- rial government contracted a loan of 1,000,000?., 5 per cents, at the price of 75, in order to defray the expences of the war of in- dependence. In the following year, the government contracted a second loan of 2,000,000?., also 5 per cents, at the price of 85, with the further advantage of a year's dividend, to provide for the expenses attendant on the suppression of the revolt in the northern provinces ; and in consideration of the recognition of Brazilian independence by Portugal, they undertook the liability of the loan of 1,500,000?. 5 per cents., which the mother country had contracted at 87 in 1823. The expenditure was seriously increased by the subsequent war with Buenos Ayres, and scarcely was this brought to a conclusion when the government was led into fresh liabilities by the assistance which Dom Pedro I. gave the constitutional party in Portugal, on the usurpation of the crown of that country by his brother, Dom Miguel. In 1829, two 5 per cent, loans, 392,584?., were contracted at 54 ; and the Regency, ten years later, were compelled to contract another 5 per cent, loan of 312,512?. at 78, in order to meet the deficit in the revenue, which then embarrassed the government. During the usurpations of Dom Miguel, the payment of the dividends on the Portuguese loan of 1823 was suspended ; but as soon as the authority of Donna Maria was established, her government pro- vided for the arrears, and in 1842 a financial treaty was concluded between Brazil and Portugal, under which the former delivered to the Portuguese agents stock to the amount of 732,600?., which 174 BIO JANEIRO. at 85, the price at which it was issued, was equal to 622,702?., the sum agreed to be paid by Brazil, in liquidation of this and all other claims. The National Debt of Brazil, therefore, amounted in 1853 to 6,999,200Z., the interest on which, throughout all the difficulties and embarrassments of the government, has been punctually paid, though, at times, the measures necessary to provide for its pay- ment have been severely felt by the people. The several loans specified were contracted on the terms of a sinking fund, which were fully carried out until 1828, when the increased expenditure compelled the government to put a period to its operations. But as soon as the expiration of the commercial treaty with England in 1844 allowed the government of Dom Pedro II to revise the tariff of customs duties, and by that means to obviate the pressure of a deficiency in the revenue, the provisions of the sinking fund were revived. The Portuguese loan was thus reduced to 954,250?., and in 1852 it was paid off by a new 4^ per cent, loan of that amount, contracted at 95. Reductions of the other loans have been effected in the same way, and the foreign debt of Brazil now stands at only 5,900,000?. Further reductions are being gradually effected, and if the provisions of the Sinking Fund con- tinue to be carried out, as doubtless they will be, the time cannot be far distant when the foreign debt of the empire will be entirely liquidated. Between 1836 and 1840 the deficiency in the revenue increased from 476,825,000 reis to 3,639,608,000 reis, and in consequence of the expenditure consequent on the rebellion in the'province of Rio Grande do Sul, this deficiency continued to increase until 1844, in which year it amounted to 9,484,520,000. This deficit did not entirely disappear during the next three or four years, but in 1849-50 there was a surplus of 3,035,006,000 reis (341,438/.), in 1850-1 of 3,552,404,000 reis (399,645?.), in 1851-2 of 4,010,220,000 reis (451,149?.), in 1852-3 of 3,970,202,000 reis- (446,647?.), and in 1853-4 of 3,528,934,000 reis (397,005?.). Since 1836 the revenue has increased from 13,024,749,000 reis MO JANEIRO. 175 to 35,290,691,000 reis, at which sum it may reasonably be estimated for some years. The expenditure has increased from 13,501,574,000 reis to 30,471,066,000, which increase has not only been at a slower rate than that of the receipts, but exhibits a pro- gression from a deficiency to a surplus, and since 1844 it may be taken as representing an improvement in the administration, the growth of an efficient steam navy, and those numerous public works which have been referred to in preceding pages. The surplus revenue of the last five years has been the natural result of the fiscal reforms of 1844, which have extended commerce and promoted internal prosperity, at the same time that their success has paved the way for further and more extensive reforms in the same direction. These accounts refer only to the imperial revenue, in addition to which each of the twenty provinces into which the empire is divided has its separate revenue, raised by its Provincial Assembly, and expended on local objects, the aggregate amount of which is about one-third that of the imperial revenue. This system causes the demands on the imperial treasury to be much fewer than in countries where the administration is centralised, and the entire expenditure is defrayed from the general revenue. The entire debt of Brazil does not much exceed three years' revenue, and while the latter is yearly increasing, the former ex- hibits an annual diminution. This proportion between income and liabilities is such as few states can exhibit, and considering the almost ilhmitable resources of the country, and the com- mercial prosperity that is fast growing out of its adoption of a Free Trade policy, a debt of 12,362,290^. cannot be deemed a serious or burdensome charge. Indeed, when we look at the progress which has been made towards the diminution of the debt, in years when the facilities of the government for meeting its liabilities were much less than at present, there can be no doubt that it will in the course of a few more years be extinguished altogether, and thus enable the government to carry out farther reductions, and promote many schemes of improvement. RIO JANEIRO, 177 naval force, and that never sways the destinies of the state in any country. To save itself from the unlicensed soldiery of the Spanish pro- vinces — ^from the savage Artigas — Monte Video sought and found admission into the Brazilian empire, and became its Cis-Platine province, The jealousies of the Spanish and Portuguese races (and Buenos Ayrean intrigues) produced revolt, and led to war between Brazil and Buenos Ayres for possession of the Banda. But this war was most unpopular in Brazil. Her native population did not. regard the territory as worth fighting for, and the ob- stinacy of Dom Pedro I., in persevering against public opinion, was one cause of his downfall. Hostilities terminated by the creation of the independent Republic of Uruguay. But Lord Ponsonby's treaty, by which it was accomplished, was one of preliminaries only. So little, however, did Brazil then care to intrigue in Uruguay, that, notwithstanding her material interests suffered from the want of definite arrangements, she was content, so long as Uruguay preserved the shadow of independence, to go on with provisional relations only. But Rosas first attacked and then subdued the independence of Uruguay ; and then Uruguay be- came a source of danger, for it adjoins Rio Grande do Sul, in which serious disturbances had with difiiculty been suppressed. These Rosas tried to revive. Its boundaries, too, were unsettled ; and Oribe carried his incursions into Brazilian territories, levied enormous contributions on Brazilian subjects, and carried off 800,000 head of cattle. Nor was this all : the navigation of the Uruguay, Parana, and Paraguay was closed to Brazil, and commerce down the Plate, Brazil was allowed to have none. Still, whilst there was a chance that British and French inter- vention would remedy this state of things, she waited patiently. When those powers not only retired, but wholly failed, Rosas openly assumed the protectorate of Uruguay, and required Brazil to submit to the depredations of Oribe, his lieutenant. Brazil expelled the power of Rosas from Uruguay, then drove him from Buenos Ayres, but at once withdrew within its own frontiers, and, 176 HIO JANEIRO. In concluding this summary of the commercial and social status of Brazil, I venture, before making any observations on the Plate, to solicit the attention of the reader to some very admirable re- marks which appeared in an influential morning journal a few weeks ago, with the signature of ' Braziliensis,' explanatory of the precise relationship of the empire to the Oriental del Uruguay and to the Argentine states generally. A knowledge of this rela- tionship is essential to an appreciation of what is called, often erroneously, the ' River Plate Question ; ' and, with the aid of the writer referred to, whose remarks I am about to epitomisOj and a few explanatory addenda incorporated with them, the matter may be rendered transparent in a brief compass. First, as to the Uruguay, touching which republic Brazil is assumed by ill-informed politicians in England to have sinister designs. Now, Brazil, of all countries, has most interest in the peace and progress of Uru- guay as an independent state. But it must not be overlooked that Brazil is a Platine state, just as much as Uruguay, as the Argentine Confederation, as Bolivia, or Paraguay. It is in Brazi- lian territories that the River Paraguay has its main source, that the River Uruguay rises, that the Parana begins to flow, and that these (with their tributaries) form the River Plate. All three are navigable in Brazil ; each forms the natural access to great and rich provinces of that empire, which has, therefore, a deep interest in the free navigation of the upper waters of the Plate ; and that interest is the key to her policy on the southern side of the empire She has a plethora of land. What she wants is an increase to her free population : to European immigration all parties are directing earnest attention. Civilians, not soldiers of fortune, govern Brazil. The Emperor is a civilian ; his ministers are civilians : there is nothing aggressive or ambitious in Brazilian policy. Law, order, commerce, and peace — not the sword — prevail. The army is small, not exceeding 65,000 men, of which the regular troops number 22,540 ofiicers and privates (including 3,127 cavalry, and 3,582 artillery) ; the remainder are militia, and the whole are strictly obedient to the civil power. Like England, Brazil cultivates a 178 RIO JANEIRO. in the succeeding troubles, i-efused to interfere further than to give good and the same advice to all. Brazil had then the oppor- tunity of annexing the Oriental State, and of again advancing her frontier to the Plate. In fixing the boundary line she has gained no territory ; her pecuniary claims she has postponed until those of other countries are discharged ; she has insisted on the free navigation of the rivers, not for herself only, but for all the coun- tries they water ; and when the government of Monte Video was lately oppressed by poverty, she consented to lend it 60,000 dels, a month, in order that it might preserve its independence.. Brazil was no party to the recent change of presidents at Monte Video ; and just as Brazil supported Giro himself when in power, as the head of the government de, facto, so, in the interests of peace arid independence, she now lends moral support to the present "govern- ment.* She takes no part against Urquiza ; she is neither- his partisan nor that of Buenos Ayres in Argentine disputes ; she has, indeed, tried to throw oil on their troubled waters ; but, as that was not to be done, like England and France, Brazil now waits for * A Monte Videan writer in the City article of the Times on the 17th of last month, hag the following remarks, at once explanatory of the condition of the government of the Banda Oriental, and of Brazilian relations to it, and of the feehngs prevailing in the Uruguay as to the tendency it is desired that such relationship should assume : — By a decree of the Provi.siunal Government, Berro, tlie ex-JIinister of Gh'o, having been detected in fomenting the civil war, lias been outlawed. Any pereon is authorized to kill him. This decree does not meet with the approbation of the people, but in these countries public opinion has little intluence with governments. Brazil, it is said, has been offered the protectorate of this republic, and refused it ; but she will use foi'ce, if neces- sary, to exact the fulfilment of treaties ; and it is generally believed here that the Banda Oriental will soon be occupied by troops from the empire, to restore and maintain order and support any constitutionally established government. This news is as generally agreeable as it is credited. The respectable portion of the Orientals are convinced the country cannot be governed without foreign aid, and the numerous foreigners residing here, of course, rejoice in the prospect of peace and order. The Government has author- ized its agent in Paris to contract aloan of 12,000,000 duros, at 70per cent., interest pay- iible half-yearly at the rate of 6 per cent, on the nominal capital ; also to grant a privilege for ten years to a company (with a capital of 3,000,000 duros) of a bank of issue and dis- count on the principles of the Bank of France ; and, lastly, to concede lands to an asso- ciation which undertakes to despatch several thousands of emigrant agricultural families to tins republic. These three projects are connected with each other. If Brazil maintains order in the country for a few years, no doubt the immigration scheme wovdd he as beneficial to the immigrants as to the republic. RIO JANEIRO. 179 their natural solution.' She is the only South American state with a stable government, with a large and increasing commerce, with a growing surplus, with an augmenting population. She has secured the esteem of England by at last abandoning the slave trade, and she will not risk either her prosperity or her reputation by ambitious designs on Uruguay. [See chapter on the Eiver Plate. J We have seen that she is most favourable to the free navi- gation of those rivers on her southern and eastern frontier, whose opening has so long been the desideratum of European and South American commerce ; and we shall see presently that she is most wisely and energetically cooperating with an affluent company, com-v posed of English, Brazilian, and Portuguese capitalists, for bringing the blessings of steam to bear upon the Amazon, the results of which proceeding it is entirely impossible to exaggerate. Ten years ago the finances of Brazil were in very great embar- rassment. Under all circumstances of distress and difficulty, Brazil had, indeed, paid, as she still continues regularly to pay, the in- terest on her debt, thereby honourably distinguishing herself from other South American, and not a few European states. But, at that time, her expenditure largely exceeded her income. Gradually Brazil has reversed this state of things ; instead of a heavy deficit, she now has a steadily increasing surplus, has been able to reduce the rate of interest on part of her foreign debt, is slowly reducing its capital, and is in a position to compete in the money market of London with the most favoured European- governments. Ten years ago Brazil was not a little embarrassed by the fiscal restric- tions she had imposed. on herself by her commercial treaties with other countries. Now she is free from all such embarrassments, has full powers over her own trading and financial system, and has no treaties at all with other states. Intermediately she raised for revenue purposes her tariff of Custom duties ; but now that she has a surplus to dispose of, her Government is engaged in reducing those duties, to the enlargement, of course, of her commerce. The total funded domestic debt of the empire on the 31st of Dec. last amounted to 57,704,200,000 reis, and the funded debt of the ISO RIO JANEIRO. province of Rio Janeiro to 3,940,000,000 reis. The total revenue for the present year, 1854, is estimated at about 32,353,000 milreis (£3,594,700), and the expenditure at about 29,633,706 milreis (£3,292,630). The income is chiefly derived from the ad valorem duty charged on all articles imported into Brazil, amounting in 1851-2 to £2,814,443 ; a low duty charged on the articles ex- ported, amounting in the same year to £503,070 ; and rents, royalties on mines, &e. The estimated expenditure for 1853-4 is thus distributed : Ministry of the Interior, £412,355 ; Justice, £250,020 ; Foreign Affairs, £60,000 ; Marine, £452,138 ; War, £813,935 ; Finances, £1,304,162 : total, £3,292,630. Ten years ago the Brazilian navy was small : it is now rising into importance ; its courage and capacity were lately seen in the Plate ; many of its younger officers have been reared in the British ser- vice, and from British yards it is yearly adding to its steam flotilla. It now consists of 1 frigate of 50 guns, 5 corvettes, 5 brigs, and 9 schooners, carrying together 188 guns; and 4 smaller vessels, carrying together 27 guns ; 10 steamers, mounting 36 guns ; with various unarmed ships and steamers, and several others are building. The Brazilian army has estabhshed its reputation at once for success, bravery, and humanity. Ten years ago Brazil had little external influence ; now Brazil is obviously at the head of South American states, and has a distinct and separate part assigned to her in the destinies of the human race. Then she had but slow and dilatory intercourse with Europe ; now she has two monthly steam services from England — another is being estathshed from Lisbon ; and Rio Janeiro is now only a month's distance from London and Paris. Whilst London, Liverpool, and Lisbon are thus sweeping its coasts with steam, Manchester is lighting Brazihan cities with gas. Messrs. Peto and Jackson, (the members for Xorwich and 2few- castle-under-Lyne,) whose capital and connections are interlacing Canada and the British Xorth American provinces with a mag- nificent net-work of railways, are also with other capitahsts about to bring their vast resources and long practised experience to bear in a RIO JANEIRO 181 like manner in several of the Brazilian provinces, and doubtless with a like result within as brief a period as the circumstances of the country and the obstacles to be overcome will possibly permit. The Government is opening up new roads, clearing away impediments in rivers, and is arranging the internal improvement of the empire on a large and comprehensive system. A great and a happier future is opening on Brazil — one calculated to advance and extend moral improvement and political freedom, as well as to promote material comfort. In thus recording the material prosperity and anticipating the progressive greatness of this magnificent empire, it affords me infinite gratification to be able to attribute to my distinguished fellow-townsman. Admiral Grenfell, the Brazilian consul-gene- ral* for England, a large and conspicuous share in consolidating the strength, and enhancing the reputation of Brazil, as eminent among the nations alike for the valour of its arms, the clemency * Brazil has long been diplomatically represented in this country by M. Sergio Teixeira de Macedo, envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary, 5, Mansfleld-street, Portland-place, a gentleman whose high breeding, varied intelligence, and conciliatory manner towards all who have business at the Legation have rendered him deservedly popular, both with the corps diploma- tique and the pubUc. He writes and speaks English with ease and accuracy, apd having married an English lady (lately deceased) of rare accomplishments, by whom he has had a numerous family, he is necessarily almost as familiar with the manners and usages of society amongst us as a native. His staff con- sists of J. T. do Amaral, Esq., secretary of legation, and Chevaliers H. C. d'Albuquerque, J. A. da Silva Maya, A. de P. Lopes Gama, H. de T. M. de Montezuma, and J. P. d'Andrada, attaches. The Brazilian consul-general is Admiral Grenfell, Liverpool, who has distinguished himself in the Brazilian service, and whose biography will be found in a subsequent page; vice-consul, L. A. da Costa, Esq., 14, Cooper's-row, Tower-liill, London. A Brazilian vice- consul has lately been appointed at the Bahama Islands, in the person of Mr. George W. G. Robins, of Nassau, a gentleman who has already iiUed many honorary posts there with much distinction, and is qualified in every way to secure to the imperial flag the same respect that attaches to those of France, Spain, the United States, &c., in that thriving British dependency. England is represented in Brazil by Mr. H. P. Howard, who was attached to the mis- sion at Munich in 1828, appointed paid attache at Berlin in 1832, secretary of legation at the Hague in 1845, and in 1846 at Berlin, where he was several times charge d'affaires. He was appointed envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary at Rio Janeiro in 1853, with a salary of 4000?., and 500?. per 182 BIO JANEIRO. of its counsels, and the magnanimity it has evinced in eschewing torritorial aggrandisement which its bravery and. sagacity might so readily have secured it. A more befitting preliminary to the subsequent chapter on the Amazon there could not be than a memoir of the gallant seaman to whose skill and bravery the retention of the principal Amazonian province is due, and to whose equally admirable conduct on a scarcely less trying occasion is also due an acceleration of the settlement of the aifairs of the Plate, to a correct understanding of which, in their latter phases at least, a perusal of the annexed biographical data, gleaned from the most reliable sources, will greatly contribute. aiinum for house-rent. His secretary of legation is the Hon. W. G. Jeriiing-. ham, who was attached to the missions at Munich and Berlin in 1834, to the embassy at Vienna in 1836, appointed paid attache at the Hague in 1839, and to his present post, with a salary of 5501. per year, in 1850. The British con- suls are — at Rio Janeiro, where he had previously been vice-consul, Mr. J. J. C. Westwood, 800Z. ; at Bahia, Mr. J. Morgan, who was attached to the legation at Rio Janeiro as translator in 1845, appointed consul at Rio Grande in 1847, and transferred to Bahia, where his salary is 8001. per annum, in 1852 ^ vice-consul at Balria, Mr. J. WethereU; at Pernambuco, Mr. H. A. Cowper, for- merly consul at Para, 500?. ; at Maranham, Mr. H. W. Ovenden, 300Z. ; at Para, Mr. S. Vines, 4501. ; at Paraiba, Mr. B. M. Power, 400/. ; at Rio Grande do Sul, the Hon. H. P. Vereker, who was appointed to a clerkship under the Commissioners of Railways in 1848, a clerkship in the Board of Trade in 1851, and to his present post, with 800Z. per annum, in 1852; and at St. Catherine''s, Mr. R. Callander, 500?. These salaries are all exclusive of fees, which, in many instances, are very considerable, emoluments frequently arising from commissions on Australian gold dust left at Brazilian ports for shipment to Europe ; but that source of gain is far more lucrative on the west than on the east coast of South America, and hence the increasing pecuniary importance of consular appointments in the ChiUan and Peruvian ports. W Ml 1 [ M I 1 II \M \l III I |sl \M IW II VIS I II I \1 1 II MM I \M II I KOTE TO THE ILLUSTRATION. The cataract shown in the foregoing page consists, says Sir W. G. Ouseley, from whose portfolio it is copied, of a succession of three waterfalls, subsiding into rapids, and then continuing its course as a turbulent rocky brook, working its ivay among the hills of the Serra de Estrella. The falls of Itamarity are not near any high road, and have been seldom visited by Europeans. It is not possible to obtain a general view of all the falls. That in the Plate is taken from an insulated rock, standing opposite the second fall. The first fall has worked a basin in the rock, as in other similar sites, and, as usual, it is asserted bv the natives to be of vast or fathomless depth. Below the isolated rock is a third fall of considerable size ; but the rich and thick vegetation prevents much of it from being seen. On the morning that this sketch was taken, when a party visited the Falls, some negroes were sent on beforehand to cut away the underwood and parasites, and to fell trees in order to impromeer a bridge for the nonce. The ligatures used in fastening the trees, and the sort of parapet railing, were made of the lianes or parasitical plants from the surrounding trees. They hang from the highest branches like ropes of various sizes, some little larger than whipcord, others of the circumference of a large cable i indeed, they are often thicker than a man's body, and frequently form spiral and intricate knots, like the writhlngs of gigantic serpents, a la Laocoon. The profuse variety of growth and rapid vegetation in this part of Brazil is scarcely credible to Europeans. A very few weeks, or rather days, after this path had been opened, and the bridge constructed to enable the party to visit these Falls, strangers might have passed close to them, only made aware of their proximity by the loud roar of the falling -waters, the hoarse sound of which, deadened and rendered deceptive by the close growth of the forest, would be but an indifferent guide, and hardly enable them to find any approach by which to obtain a view of the Falls. The negroes and countiy people have alarming stories or traditions respecting vast crocodiles, differing from the common sort in their nature and habits, and unlike the alligators of the rivers emptying themselves directly into the bay of Rio de Janeiro, at the foot of these mountains. They are said to be in- finitely larger and more voracious than their relations near the salt water. These monsters, they afiinn, inhabit the deep pools foimed occasionally in the course of the mountain rivers. Poisonous snakes are asserted to be often found in these waters. The present existence of tbese crocodiles seems veiy apocryphal ; nor are serpents so often met with, even by naturalists anxious to enrich their collections, as is generally supposed. The name of these Falls, * Itamariti,' or ^ Itamarity,' signifies in the Indian language (pro- bably that of the Guarani tribe) ' the shining stones,' or ' the rock that shines,' doubtless so called from the glittering appearance of the large mass of rock, the face of which is worn smooth by the water. * Ita * means stone or rock. The old road over the Serra de Estrella, constructed when Brazil was a colony of Por- tugal, was, although mucii too steep according to modem ideas of engineering, infinitely better than the track dignified with the name of road, formerly leading to the Sen'a dos Orgaos. Being paved, it was at least safe and practicable. But the road recently opened to these heights is on vastly improved principles, and on a scale thought even imneces- sarily large. The foundation and progress, however, of the new city of Petropolis, situated at the height of about 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, on this route, has doubtless called for the construction of a road wider and more convenient than those liitherto made in this part of the countiy. The Emperor has built a summer residence here, near the highest part of the road, and the court and many of the wealthier citizens of Rio Janeu-o have followed the example, encouraged by his Imperial Majesty's liberal allotment of land for dwelling-houses, hotels, &c. The idea of founding this mountain city as a retreat dm-ing the great heats originated with the late Emperor, Don Pedro I., who made gi-ants of land, absolutely or conditionally, to diflFerent noblemen of liis Court. He was not enabled, however, to carry into effect either his plan for a citj', or the con- struction of a new road to and through the mountains. To the reigning Emperor be- longs the credit of practically calling into existence this thriving and healthy settlement, of wliich the success is now beyond a doubt. Petropolis may now be regarded as like the Royal Sitios in Spain,— Aranjuez, La Graiya, Ac, to which the Court regularly removes at certain seasons. The temperature and climate are delightful, and the annual removal to this and the other Serras is suflScient to restore to health those who have suffered from the enervating heats of the summer in the low lands around the capital. European invalids especially derive gi-eat benefit during convalescence from a few weeks' stay in these picturesque mountains. JIany foreigners, particularly Germans, have settled at or near this city. To the naturalist, and more particularly to the entomologist and botanist, a sojourn in these Serras affords endless interest and em- ployment. A railroad is now opened from Rio Janeiro to the foot of the hills, which promises great advantages to the new settlement ADMlllAL WUE.XFELL, COSHVL GE^iEUAL I'dll IIUAZIE ADMIRAL GRENFELL. Vice-Admiral John Pascol Grenfell, of the Imperial Brazilian Navy, is sou of the late Mi-. J. GrauvUle Grenfell, of the city of London, and was born at Battersea, in 1800. At eleven years of age, he embarked in the maritime service of the Honourable East India Company, and made several voyages to India in the capacity of midshipman and mate in the Company's ships. In the year 1819, he left the Company's service, and joined the naval service of the Republic of ChOi, with the rank of lieutenant, mider the command of the present Admiral Earl of Dundonald, then Lord Cochrane, Admu-al of the Chilian Naval Forces, engaged in the contest with Spain for the inde- pendence of the Spanish colonies on the coast of the Pacific Ocean. On the night of the 5th of Nov., 1820, Lieutenant Grenfell commanded one of the boats of the Chilian squadron, which, under the personal direction of Lord Cochrane, boarded and cut out from under the Ciistles of Callao de Lima, and from the midst of a squadron of armed vessels and gunboats, the Spanish Admiral's ship, the Esmeralda, a frigate of 40 guns, fully manned, and per- fectly prepared for the attack. This gallant exploit was performed by 240 volunteers, chiefly EngUshmen, embarked in 14 boats, five of which were gigs. About 50 of the assailants fell IdUed or wounded in the attack, amongst the latter Lieutenant Grenfell ; and 200 Spaniards, stretched on the decks of the frigate next morning, showed how sharply the contest had been maintained. The following order, issued by Lord Cochrane previous to the attack, will be interesting to naval men : — On Board the Chilian States' Ship O'Hir/gins, Xov. 1., 1820. — First Division : O'Eigyins — 1st laun£h, 2nd launch, barge, cutter, green gig, black gig, small gig. Second Division : Lautaro and Independencia — 1st launch, 2nd launch, barge, cutter, cutter, gig, gig. The boats will proceed, towing the launches in two lines, parallel to each otiter, which line!: are to be at the distance of three boats' lengths asunder. The first line will be under the cliarge of Capt. Crosbie, the second under the charge of Capjt. Guise ; each boat will be under the charge of a volunteer commissioned officer, so far as circumstances will j'ei-mit, and the wliole under the command of the Admiral The officers and men are to be dressed in white jackets, frocks or skirts, and are to be armed with pistols, sabres, knives, tomahawks vr pikes. Two boat-keepers are to be appointed to each boat, who, on nu pretence, shall quit their respective boats, but are to remain therein, and take care that the bouts do not get adrift. Each boat is to be provided with one or more axes, or sharp hatchets, which are to be kept slung to the girdles of the boat keepers. The frigate Esmeralda being the chief object of the expedition, the whole force is first to attack that ship, which, when carried, is not to be cut adrift., but is to remain in possession of the Patriot Seamen to ensure the cap. ture of the rest. On securing tlie frigate, the Chilian seamen and marines are not to cheer as f they were Chilians, but in order to deceive the enemy, and give time for completing tli'e work, are to cheer ' Viva el Rey.' The two brigs of war are to be fired on by musket,-y from the Esmeralda, and are to be taken possession of by I.ieutcnanis Esmond and Morgell, ADMIBAL GEENPELL; 187 in the boats they comimmd, which, bemff done tlteij tire to cut adrijl, and run out into the tiffiffig as soon as possible. The boats of the Independeiwla are to bust/ themselves in turn- ing adrift all the outtvard Spanish merchantmen ; and the boats of the Lautaro, und^r Lieittenants Bell and Roberton, are to set fire to one or more of the headmost hidks ; but these are not to be cut adrift, so as to fall down on the rest. The watchword, (or parole and countersign,) shaidd the white dres.i not be sujjicient distinction in the dark, is, ' 67o? /«/ to be answered by ' VictoHa^ — Signed, Cociikank. Note. — After the first attempt ou the night of the 4th of Nov., it was found inconvenient to tow the launches ; and, on the night of the 5th, orders were given by the Admiral, on shoving-off from liis flagship, for the boats to pull in two lines, and for all officers to report themselves to him on the quarter- deck of the enemy's frigate. Lieutenant Grenfell continued to serve with Lord Cochrane till, by the surrender of the remainder of the Spanish naval forces, the war in the Pacific was concluded ; and iu the begimiing of 1823 he left Chili, and accompanied Lord Cochrane to Brazil, whose newly emancipated government solicited the aid of that distinguished nobleman to expel the Portuguese forces from its territory and shores. This was eft'ected by Lord Cochrane at the head of the Brazilian squadron, by a series of able manoeuvres on the coast of Brazil, extending from Bahia to Para, during the latter part of 1823, when upwards of one hundred of the enemy's vessels, and three thousand troops, were sent prisoners into the Brazilian ports ; and the Portuguese squadi'on, of superior force to the Brazilian, was driven with loss and in confusion across the Atlantic. Lieutenant Grenfell, now promoted to the rank of commander, had the good fortune of terminating the naval campaign, by cifecting alone, in a cap- tm-ed brig of war, manned from the flagship, the surrender of the Portuguese force in the city of Para, and the adhesion of that immense and rich province to the cause of the empii-e, and rejoined his admiral at Rio de Janeiro in 1824, in a new frigate of 50 guns, which he found in the Port of Para. In the execution of this service, while queUmg an insurrection of the newly subjugated Portuguese, Commander Grenfell received a dangerous womid with a poignard in the back." For these services. Commander Grenfell was subsequently made an oflicer of the Order of the Southern Cross. The acknowledgment of the independence of Brazil by Portugal the follow- ing year terminated the services of Lord Cochrane, who retired to England. At tills period the aggressions of the Argentine Confederation on the Southern frontier of Brazil called the naval forces of the empire to the River Plate, where Captain Grenfell, now promoted to the post rank, proceeded in com- mand of a brig of 18 guns, under the Brazilian Admu-al, Baron do Rio da Prata. The naval forces of Buenos Ayres, very inferior to those of Brazil, were commanded by Admiral WUliam Brown, an Irishman, — one of those smgular characters whose indomitable bravery, converting weakness into strength, for a long time baflled all the eflbrts of the Brazilian Admiral. A decisive action at last occurred oft' Buenos Ayres, in July 1826, in which Admiral Brown's ship, with two-thirds of her men killed and wounded, was driven ashore a complete wreck, in front of that city. On this occasion Captain Grenfell, 188 ADMIRAL GRENFELL. whilst in close action with Admiral Brown, and attacked by a freih ship of the enemy, had his right arm shattered by a grape-shot as he stood on the ham- mock-nettings of his brig, encouraging his men to do their duty. Captain Grenfell'a wound was very severe, requiring amputation of the right arm, at the shoulder-joint, which was performed three weeks afterwards at Monte Video. On liis partial recovery, he came on leave to England, but returned to the River Plate again in 1828, in command of a corvette, just m time to witness the termination of the w.ir. For his services therein. Captain Orenfell was made a Pignitary of the Order of the Sout ern Cross, received a pansion for the 1 jss of his arm, and other marks of friendship and consider- ation from H.I.M. Don Pedro I. In 1829, Captain Grenfell married Donna Maria Dolores, second daughter of the late Don Antonio Masini, of the city of Monte Video, by whom lie has had a family of six sons and four daughters. In the same year, he was appointed one of the escort of H.I.M. the Empress Amelia and H.M. the late Queen of Portugal, Donna Maria II., in their voyage from Europe to Brazil ; and afterwards, in the year 1830, he conveyed the Duchess of Goyaz, a natural daughter of Don Pedro I., from Brazil to Europe, ill the Isabel, a frigate of 60 ^uns. On the occasion of the Revolution of 1831, and the abdication of Don Pedro I., Captain Grenfell was absent from Brazil, but was recalled again to employment by the Regency in 1833. In 1835, he was sent to the province of Rio Grande do Sul, in command of the naval force on the lakes of that province, then in rebellion against the Imperial Government. Success at first attended the Imperial arms ; the rebels in various encounters were diiven from tlieir positions on the lakes and rivers ; their flotilla captured, and their prin- cipal chiefs, with all their artillery, a considerable force of infantry and cavalry, reduced to surrender on the River Jacuhy, in a fruitless attempt to force its passage. In all these opei'ations, the naval force under Captain Grenfell had a principal share, for wliich services, in 1833, he was promoted to the rank of commodore. The scene, however, soon changed : the loyal forces penetrating into the interior were, in 1837, completely routed by the rebels at Rio Pardo, and Casajjava, the president of the provhice, taken prisoner, and the Imperial authority again restricted to the capital, the port, and the lakes ; and both the former were closely besieged, and in great danger of falling into the liauds of the rebels. At this critical juncture, the Commo- dore, through his personal influence with the rebels, origmating simply fi-om the humanity with which he had treated the prisoners that on various occa- sions had fallen into his liands, effected at great personal risk a suspension of arms with the rebel chiefs, with reference to the Imperial Government at Rio de Janeiro, which gained important time, checked the rebel career of success, and saved tlip province to the empire. The Imperial Government profited by the opportunity afforded for remedy- hig past en-ors : troops were poured into the province, a new army Was organ- ized, the naval forces were augmented with several steamers, and, at leitgtli. in 1842, under the able direction of Genera) the Count of Oaxias, the army took the field, routed the rebels hi various engagements, and finally, in 1844, effected their complete submission to the Imperial Government. In'atleiitioii ADMIRAL GRENFELL. 189 (as expressed in his commission) to the distinguished Hsrvicea rendered with 90 much intelligence, zeal, and activity in the Province of Rio Grande de San Pedro do Sul, towards the pacification of the same province and integrity of the empire, the Commodore was raised to the rank of Rear- Admiral, and made a Grand Dignitary of the Imperial Order of the Rose; and shortly afterwards received the permission of Her Brita,nnic Majesty to hold his rank, and continue in the service of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Brazil. In the year 1844, Rear-Admiral Grenfell was appointed to command the Imperial squadron in the River Plate, where the contest between Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, affecting the commercial interests of neutral states, called the naval forces of most of the maritime powers to the spot, where he supported with firmness the rights of Brazilian subjects. The following year the Rear Admiral received the most marked proof of the estimation of the Imperial Government, in being appointed to command the squadron that carried their Imperial Majesties to the southern provinces of the empire, and hoisted his flag in the frigate Constitution of 50 guns. With the Imperial squadron, were incorporated Her Britannic Ma,je3ty's ship Grecian, Her Most Faithful Majesty's ship Don John, and the United States' ship Raritan. The Rear Admiral had the honour of accompanying their Imperial Majesties dur- ing their tour, and in the course thereof received many notable proofs of the estimation and regard of the inhabitants of those provinces, who took this opportunity of shewing their grateful sense of -his conduct during the civil war. Shortly after the return of the court to Rio Janeiro the Rear Admiral proceeded in the Constitution to England, with his family, and resigning his naval command at Plymouth, in Sept. 1846, assumed his civil appointment of Consul General of Brazil, in the United Kingdom. In the spring following, he was presented at St. James's. During the years 1847-48, he built and fitted out at Liverpool, for the Imperial Government, the steam frigate ' Alfonso.' In August, 1848, Rear Admiral Grenfell received the thanks of the town of Liverpool, and the gold medal of the Liverpool Seamens Shipwreck Society, for his exertions in saving the lives of the passengers and crew of the emi- grant ship Ocean Monarch,* burnt off that port, and which was promptly suc- * This was one of the most appalling disasters erer known at sea^ and the sensation it produced exceeded, perhaps, tliat occasioned by any similar incident since the memorable destruction of the Kent East Indiaman. Tlie Ocean Monarch American emigrant ship left Liverpool, bound for Boston, August 24th, 1848, having 396 passengers on board. She had not advanced far into the Irish Cliannel, being within six miles of Great Orms- head, Lancashire, when she took fire, and in a few hours was burnt to the water's edge. The Brazilian steam-frigate Alfonso happened to be out on a trial trip at the time, with the Prince and Princess de JoinviUe and the Duke and Duchess de Aumale on board, who witnessed the catastrophe, and aided in rescuing and comforting the sufferers with exceed- ing humanity. They, with the crews and passengers of tlie Alfonso and the yacht Queen of the Ocean, so effectually rendered their heroic and unwearied services as to save 156 persons from their dreadful situation, and 62 others escaped by various means. But tlie rest, 178 in number, perished in the flames or the sea. The conduct of the New York . sailor, Jerom, on this occasion, was scarcely less distinguished for bravery and self-sacri- fice than that of the black sailor, Simon, at the wreck of the Pernambucana, as described at page 132. 190 ADMIRAL (rBE^JTELL. eouved by the Alfonso under Captain Marques Lisbaa, then on her trial trip. The followins- lettsr from H.R. Highness the Prmee de Joinville, who was present, shews the sense H.R. Highness entertained of the Rear-Admirara behaviour on that trying occasion. Claremont, 28 A6ut, 1848. — Monsieur, — J'ai requ la lettre que vous m'avez/ait Vhon- neur de viecrlre au sujet du sauvetage des passaz/ers de VOceaa Monarch. Je ne'jn^rite point les Sloffes que vous voulez bien m^addresser. Passager seulement ahord de VAlfonzo je n^ai ete malheureusemeni que le temoin impulssant de la plus douloureuse des catastroplies, viats j'ai vu tenter les plus noble efforts d'arracher ci une mort horrible desjemmes et des en- fans. Qit'il me soit permis de signaler tl la reconnaissance ptd}lique les Officiers et Tequl- page de VAlfonzo, le matelot Jerome, et surtout Monsieur VAdmiral Grenjell, dont le noble devouement m'a penetre d'admiration. ifa femme me cliarge de vous exprimer toute sa reconnaissance pour les sentimens que vous aves blen voulu lui exprimer. Becevez, Mon- sieur, Vassurance de ma haute consideration. — (SignS) F. d'Orleans. — His Worship the Mayor oj Liverpool. The serious misunderstanding which occurred in 1850 between the govern- ments of Brazil and Buenos Ayres, on the subject of the occupation of the territory of Monte Video by the latter power, induced the Imperial Government to augment its forces by sea and by land ; and Rear-Admiral GrenfeU was selected to command the squadron in the River Plate ; and, leaving England in the beginning of 1851, he hoisted his flag at Rio Janeiro again on board the frigate Constitution, and proceeded with several corvettes and steamers to his destination. The Buenos Ayrean ai-my, under General Oribe, was found can- tonned round the city of Monte Video : the Buenos Ayrean flotiUa, under- Commodore Coe, lay in the inner roads of Buenos Ayres. The Rear-Admiral, after concerting measures with the Governor of Entre Rios, General Don Justo Urquiza and the Count of Caxias, who ag-ain was at the head of the Brazilian army on the frontier of Monte Video, proceeded to occupy the rivers Uruguay and Parana, so as to impede the communication of General Oribe with Buenos Ayres. This measure entirely disconcerted the plans of the Governor of Buenos Ayres, Don Juan Manuel Rosas, who, not con- fiding in his own resources, counted on the assistance of Great Britain and France. These powers, however, preserved their neutrality, and in November the simultaneous advance of the forces of Entre Rios and Brazil, together with the position maintained by the Brazilian squadi'on, compelled General Oribe to surrender himself and his army to terms dictated by General Urquiza Monte Video, thus freed from its enemies, the Argentine troops lost to General Rosas, and incorporated with the allies, nothing remained but to cross the river, and march on Buenos Ayres, where General Rosas was doing his utmost to levy and organize a new army. The vanguard of this army, under General Mansilla, occupied a position on the River Parana, at the Pass of Tonelero, which was fortified and aimed with 16 pieces of cannon, provided with furnaces for hot shot. This passage was forced on the 17th Dec, by the Rear-Admiral, at the head of a division of steamers and corvettes, with trifling loss ; and on the following days the allied army, 24,000 strong, under General Urquiza, crossed the Parana, and marched on Buenos Ayres. The battle of Monte Caseros, on the 3rd of February, 1852, the flight of General Rosas, and the conclusion of a treaty between Brazil, Buenos Ayres, Monte Video, and Para- ADMIRAL OEENPELL. 191 g.i.iy, guaranteeing their respective rights, and opening the navigation of the River.4 Parana, llrugaay, anA Paraguay, put an end to this short and gIoriou< campaign. Rewards and promotion were liberally bestowed by the Brazilian Government on the victors. The Count of Caxias was made a Marquis ; tlie Imperial Plenipotentiary Honorio Oarnero Leon was created Viscount Parana, and Rear-Admiral Grenfell wai made a Grand Cross of the Imperial Order of the Rose, and promoted to the rank of Vice-Admiral. In August, 1852, he resigned his command of the imperial squadron, and returned to his civil appointment in England. THE REGION OF THE AMAZON. Westward the course of empire takes its way, The four first acts already past ; A fifth shall close the drama with the day : Time's noblest offspring is the last. Each year we open upon new prospects in an hicreasing ratio, and among those which now present themselves as calculated to develope ft*esh fields for adventure and for an extension of traflic, are the navigation, just consummated, of 1,200 miles of the River Shirray, and the expedition that is commencing to explore the Amazon. — Times' Com' mercial Retrospect of 1853, Wide o'er his isles the branching Orinoque Rolls a bro^\'n deluge ; and the native drives To dwell aloft on life-sufficing trees ; At once his dome, his robe, his food, and arms. Swell'd by a thousand streams, impetuous hurl'd From all the roaring Andes, huge descends The mightv Orellana. — Thomson. CHAPTER X. THE AMAZON. Sources of the Marafion. — ^Rapida and cataracta. — Embouchures of the Ama- zon. — Its Yolume, compared with the Ganges and the Brahmapootra. — Its discoyery by Pinzon. — Expedition of OreUana. — Gold-seeking expedition of Pedro de Orsua. — Settlement of Para, and discovery of the Rio Negro. — The Missions of the Jesuits, and their expulsion. — Discovery of the com- munication between the Amazon and the Orinoco. — Revolution of 1835. — Para: its streets and public buildings. — Explorations of M. Castelnau and Lieutenant Hemdon. — Tributaries and settlements of the Tocantina. — Lieutenant Gibbon's exploration of the Madera. — His interview with General Belzu. — ^What is wanted to turn the stream of tropical South American commerce eastward. — Herndon's descent of the Huallaga. — Tarapoto, and its future prospects. — Chasuta; its trade with Lima and Para. — Yurimaguas, and the Cachiyacu. — Steam-boat communication be- tween Nauta and Par4. — Progress of a piece of cotton from Liverpool to Sarayacu. — Estimated cost and profit of steam vessels on the Amazon. — Trade of Egas. — The new province of Amazonas. — Exports of Barra. — The Rio Negro, and its tributaries. — Communication by the Cassiquiari between the Amazon and the Orinoco. — Productions of Amazonas. — San- tarem. — The Tapajos, and its tributaries. — ^Rapids of the Paru and the Xingu. — Climate and products of Para. — ^Benefits to be expected from the opening of the Amazon and European immigration. Though the Brazilian mission of the writer in connection with the original object of this volume virtually terminates at the close of the preceding chapter, his desire to communicate, however curso- rily, an adequate idea of the immensity of extent and natural resources of the Brazilian empire would be altogether unfulfilled if some additional data were not offered respecting the illimitable and inexhaustible region of the Amazon. In conversing with en- lightened inhabitants of Brazil, natives of the capital or elsewhere, On the vastness and fertility of their country, and on the magnificent destiny it is certain to attain, they concur with you, as a matter of course, but conclude with an intimation that you estimate but half of the reality, and a fourth of the probability of what is in store ; for you leave out of your calculation the wondrous but almost un- o 194 THE AMAZON. known district of the Amazon. There, indeed, they imply, are the germs of marvellous and unmatched natural greatness to be sought ; for, prodigal as nature has everywhere been to the country in every possible respect, it is there that she has been most profuse ; and there are her bounties most accessible to man, if he would only make the slightest exertion to secure them. These views are en- tertained in a like degree by many of the most intelligent citizens of the United States, the attention of which country is being drawn in an increasingly marked degree to the commercial capa- bilities of the Amazon ; and the frequency of the publications respecting it, and the wide and general circulation they obtain throughout the Union, attest the interest wherewith North America regards the locale of what one of their writers describes as the future inevitably greatest mercantile entrepot (Para) in the world. With what justice this anticipation is formed it is the design of the annexed few pages to exhibit, consisting, as they do, in a great degree, of a digest of the more influential of the pubUcations alluded to. Considering the magnitude of the existing relations between England and Brazil, and how large a share Great Britain will derive from the enterprises that are now being directed to the opening up of the Amazon, it is conceived that a summary of the most recent circumstances connected with the countries and peoples bordering on that mighty stream will not fail to be acceptable, the more so as, with the exception of Mr. Wallace's volume already alluded to, and which is not a commercial, nor yet geographical, nor descriptive work, there has been in this country no recent pub- lication of an analogous nature to those of the United States' writers we shall presently enumerate. The Amazon, the largest river in the world, traverses the tropical regions of South America from west to east, discharging its im- mense volume of water into the Atlantic, nearly under the equator. The Tanguragua, or Upper Maraiion, is regarded as its principal head-stream, and rises in the Lake of Llanricocha, 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, in the region of nearly perpetual snow. For about 120 miles from its source it flows through a ravine, and THE AMAZON. 195 is full of rapids and cataracts, having a fall in that distance of more than 11,000 feet. Near Huary the ravine opens into a wide valley, through which the river flows gently for about 380 miles, and is navigable for canoes. Its course is then interrupted by the rapids of the Pongo Rentema, and turns eastward, in which direc- tion it runs nearly 180 miles, leaving the mountain region by the Pongo de Manseriche, a rapid seven miles long. In this part of its course the current is so strong that it can be descended only by floats ; but from the rapids of Manseriche the river passes through an extensive plain, its entire length exceeding 3,000 miles. A great number of tributaries pour their waters into the Amazon in the lower part of its course. On the north side the first from the west, below the rapids of Manseriche, is the Morona, and then come in succession the Pastaga, Tigre, Napo, Iga, Yapura, Rio Negro, and Oximina. From the south it receives, proceeding from west to east, the Huallaga, Ucayali, Yavari, Jutai, Jurua, Teffe, Coavy, Purus, Madera, Tapajos, Xingxl, and Tocantins. Most of these affluents discharge their waters into the Amazon by more than one mouth, which frequently are widely apart. Thus the two most distant of the four mouths of the Yapura are more than 200 miles asunder, and the outer embouchures of the Purus are about 100 miles from each other. In the upper portion of its course the Amazon divides Equador from Peru, between which its width varies from half a mile to a mile ; beyond the limits of Equador it increases to two miles, and below the Madera (its most considerable tributary, having a course little less than 2,000 miles in length) it is nearly three miles. Between Faro and Obydos, to which place the tide reaches, it decreases to less than a mile ; but below Obydos it widens again, and after the junction of the Tapajos it is nearly seven miles across. The width of the channel of Braganza do Norte, the northern mouth of this vast river, is 30 miles opposite the island Mara,] 6, and 50 at its embouchure ; that of the Tangi- pura channel is 18 miles at the junction of the Tocantins, and 30 at its mouth. One of the most remarkable characteristics of the Amazon is the immense volume of water which it discharges into o2 196 THE AMAZON. the ocean, which is ascribable to the forests which cover so large an extent of the immense region which it flows through, and attract a much greater quantity of rain than the scorched Llanos of the Orinoco, and the treeless pampas of the Rio Plata. "While the principal branch of the Ganges discharges 80,000 cubic feet of water per second, and the Brahmapootra pours forth 176,188 cubic feet per second, the volume of water which flows through the Narrow of Obydos per second is calculated at 550,000 cubic feet. Next in importance to the Madera among the tributaries of the Amazon, is the Rio Negro, which, after a course of 1400 miles, falls into the Father of Waters twelve miles below the town of Barra, where it is a mile and a half wide. The Xingu has a course of 1000 miles, the Tapajos and the Tapura each 900 miles, and the Napo and Iga each of 700.* According to the best writers, the first expedition up the Ama- zon occurred in 1500, when a Portuguese named Pinzon dis- covered the mouth of the river, and took possession of its left bank. In 1540, Francisco Orellana descended the Napo and the Amazon to its mouth, and finding the native women in arms to oppose him, gave the name of Amazonia to the country, and con- ferred his own upon the river, by which it is still called by some geographers. In 1560, Pedro de Orsua, commissioned to explore the country in search of gold, descended the Jutai and Jurua, but was prevented by a mutiny from proceeding farther. In 1615 the governor of Maranham, Alexandre de Moura, in order to establish the sovereignty of Portugal, sent an expedition to the Amazon under Francisco Caldeira, who sailed up the Tocantins, and formed a settlement where Para now stands. In 1648 a * A writer in the 8tli edition of the Encyclopcedia Britannica, now publishing says, ' Nearly all the branches of this noble stream are navigable to a great distance from their junction with the maia trunk ; and, collectively, the whole affords an extent of water communication unparalleled in any other part of the globe. What adds to this advantage is, that as the wind and the current are always opposed to each other, a vessel can make her way either up or down with great facility, by availing herself of her sails in the one case, and committing herself to the force of the current in the other,' THE AMAZON. 197 party of Portuguese discovered the Rio Negro, and reached Quito overland, which was regarded as a remarkable feat. Shortly afterwards, the Jesuits commenced their settlements on the banks of the Maranon ; and during the reign of Philip III., when Portu- gal was united to Spain, it was seriously contemplated to make the Amazon the means of transit for the treasures of Peru and Chili, by which the sea-voyage would be much shortened, and the dangers from English and French cruisers more than propor- tionately lessened. The Jesuits warmly espoused the cause of the cruelly treated Indians, but, unfortunately, their zeal outran their discretion, and, in 1604, they were expelled. Several settlements were made about this time on the Maranon and the Rio Negro, among others that of San Jose, now the town of Barra ; and in the expeditions which took place between 1726 and 1730, the communication between the Rio Negro and the Orinoco was discovered. During the next twenty or thirty years, colonization appears to have made rapid strides, so much so that, in 1784, a commission was despatched from Portugal to explore the country for botanical and other scientific objects. Settlements continued to be formed, but no event worthy of record occurred until the change of dynasty in 1823. Since then the only occurrence of consequence has been the revolution of 1835, when the president of the province was assassinated, the citizens of Para fled, and the whole of the pro- vince, with the exception of the town of Cameta, on the Tocan- tins, fell under the power of the insurgents, who sacked the towns, and carried off the slaves and the cattle. Quarrels between the insurgent leaders increased the miseries of the country, and seve- ral presidents succeeded each other. At length, (see memoir of Admiral Grenfell), President Andrea arrived from Rio Janeiro with a sufficient force, and succeeded in recovering possession of Para. The inland places gradually returned to their allegiance, and though the effects of these disturbances are still felt in some districts. Para has fully recovered its former prosperity. The province of Para, though naturally the richest portion of 198 THE AMAZON. the immense empire of Brazil, of which it is the most northern part, is little known, and at present of but httle commercial import- ance.* Para, the capital, contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and has a pretty appearance from the river. Most of the houses are white, which, against the dark green of the forest that sur- rounds it on the land side, and with the clear blue sky above, give it a pleasing aspect. The small islands in the river are wooded to the water's edge, and canoes are constantly passing, paddled by negroes or Indians. The custom-house, formerly a convent, is a large and handsome building, and there are several churches that will bear comparison with those of Europe. The * Mr. Edwards, in his ' Voyage up the Amazon,' before alluded to, says, that Para contains an area of 950,000 square nules, nearly half the area of the United States, and all its territories. Its soil is everywhere of exhaustless fertility, and but an exceedingly small portion of it is unfitted for cultivation. The noblest rivers of the world open communication with its remotest parts, and lie spread Hke a net-work over its surface. . . There is scarcely a pro- duct raised in the two coimtries in which Brazil could not undersell the United States in every market of the world were it not for the export-tax. Its cotton and rice, even during the past year, have been shipped from Para to New Yoik ; its tobacco is preferable to the best Virginian, and can be raised in inexhaustible quantities. . . . Sooner or later, the Amazon must be the channel of a vast commerce, and Para must be, from the advantages of its situa- tion, one of the largest cities in the world. — Edwards's Voyage up the Amazon. The value of the exports from Para m 1848 was about £148,720, of which one-fourth was taken by the United States, a like quantity by Portugal, one- fifth by France, one-sixth by Great Britain, and the remainder by the Han- seatic towns, Belgium, Genoa, and Denmark. The value of foreign goods imported in the same year was about £147,322, principally from the United States, Great Britain, Portugal, and France. The increase in the trade of tills port will be seen by comparing the preceding statement with the exports and imports of 1851. In that year the value of the former was about £356,200, and that of the latter about £273,067. Proportionately with the aggregate increase, the American and British shares of the trade had slightly advanced ; while the French share had declined to one-eighth, and the Por- tuguese had diminished more than one-half. The trade with Genoa had ceased; but that with Sweden, which had declined since 1846, showed very promising signs of a revival. The principal articles of export from Par4 are caoutchouc and cocoa, the mean yearly value of the trade in the former being about £138,000, and of the latter, £67,725. Among the articles of export in which a lesser trade is carried on may be enumerated rice, piasaba rope, annatto, sarsaparilla, hides, nuts, sugar, isinglass, and cotton. THE AMAZON. 199 squares are more like village greens, being covered with a rank growth of weeds, but the graceful-looking palms which are planted m their midst impart a picturesque appearance in the eyes of a stranger. The principal street is the Rua dos Mercadores (street of merchants), which contains the only good shops in the town, and this, or rather a part of it, is the only portion that is paved. The other streets are very narrow, and some not free from holes. What most strikes the observer is the number and size of the public buildings of Para, which are far beyond the present wants of the place, but form a good foundation for its future require- ments as the great depot of the Amazon. The palace is large and massive, but has no pretensions to architectural beauty. In its rear is the theatre, unfinished, and overgrown with vines and climbing shrubs. Near these buildings is the cathedral, the largest in Brazil, the beUs of whose two steeples, with those of the nume- rous chm-ches, seem to be continually ringing. Near the arsenal, and sufficiently removed from the city to be no nuisance to the inhabitants, is the pubhc slaughter-house, in the neighbourhood of which many vultures are always to be seen. Most of the towns and villages of the extensive country watered by the Amazon, are situated on that river and its tributaries ; and the rest is an impenetrable forest, trodden only by the Indian and the jaguar. Very little is known of the greater portion of the interior, but M. Castlenau, who explored the valley of the Amazon in 1843, and Lieutenant Herndon, of the United States Navy, who descended the ' King of Rivers ' in 1852, have supphed consi- derable information respecting the Tocantins, the Madera, and Huallaga. The first-named flows through a fertile and healthy country, and has many flourishing settlements on its banks. Among them is Salinas, famous for its salt works, near which is the Lake of Pearls, surrounded by beautiful scenery, and inhabited by numbers of aquatic birds. The town of Goyaz, with a population of about 7,500, is situated on the Vermelho, a branch of the Tocan- tins, and can be reached by vessels from Para. The voyage occupies five months, the up freight being about 20s., and the 200 THE AMAZON. down one fourth, per 100 lbs. Large canoes are paddled up the river as far as Porto Imperial, and take down hides, which at Goyaz are worth fifty cents, and at Para are sold for a doUar and a half. Para also trades with the inland town of Diamantino, by means of the Tapajos, the voyage up and down occupying eight months. The foreign merchandise that reaches Diamantino by this route is sold at an advance, on the average, of 850 per cent, on its price at Para, which is from 50 to 100 per cent, on JSTew York prices. When steam-boats are introduced on these waters trade will be largely increased, and prices reduced by com- petition and the facihty of transit, so that both producer and con- sumer will be greatly benefitted. It is a matter which gives a promising aspect to the question of future commercial intercourse with the interior that the elements of a large and profitable trade already exist in abundance. Cin- chona to the value of two millions of dollars is annually exported from the eastern slopes of Bolivia, but, at present, for the want of steam-boats on the Amazon and its tributaries, it is carried over the Andes on the backs of llamas and mules to the ports of Peru. Large qxiantities of wool, chpped on the banks of the Bolivian tributaries of the Amazon, instead of going down the river to Para, for shipment to England or the United States, are carried over the Andes in the same manner, and have then to make the voyage round Cape Horn. The Madera runs through a beautiful valley, clothed with verdure, and abounding in scenery the most striking and pictur- esque. It is among the upper tributaries of this river that the traditions of the country place the lost mines of XJrucumaguam, the riches of which equalled those of Potosi. When Lieutenant Gibbon, who was sent by the United States government to explore the valley of the Madera, was at Cochabamba, the attention of the Bolivian government was called to the estabhshment, on the navi- gable waters of that river, of ports of entry to foreign commerce, and of steam communication with the Amazon. Belzu, the Presi- dent of Bolivia, received him in the most gracious manner, and is THE AMAZON. 201 said to have promised to grant privileges to a company for that purpose, if application were made to him in due form. The course of the Madera is interrupted by cataracts and rapids, but the for- mer only commence 450 miles from its mouth, and the latter may be passed by canoes. The cataracts passed, the river is navigable into the heart of Bolivia by its tributaries, the Beni and the Ma- more, and quite through the Brazilian province of Matto Grosso by the Guapore. Mr. Clay, the United States charge d'affaires at Lima, was told that a Brazilian war-schooner had ascended the Madera above the rapids as far as Exaltacion, which is in Bolivia' above the junction of the Beni. About one-half of BoHvia, two-thirds of Peru, three-fourths of Equador, and one-half of New Grenada are drained by the Amazon and its tributaries. For the want of steam communication, the trade of all these parts of those countries goes west over the Andes to Callao. There it is shipped, and after doubling Cape Horn, and saihng eight or ten thousand miles, it is then only off the mouth of the Amazon, on its way to Europe or the United States ; whereas, if the navigation of the Amazon were free, and steam- vessels placed on its waters, the produce of the interior could be landed at Para for what it costs to convey it across the Andes to the ports of the Pacific. Lieutenant Herndon embarked on the Huallaga at Tinga-Maria, the head of canoe navigation, and 335 miles from the city of Lima, and descended to its junction with the Amazon, and thence to the mouth of the latter, a distance of not less than 3,500 miles. The first place he came to was Tarapoto, situated in a beautiful plain, watered by many rivulets, and producing cotton, coffee, sugar, cocoa, and drugs in great abundance. The district is very healthy, and free from annoying insects. Indigo grows wild, and storax, cinnamon, and gums may be procured of the Indians in any quantity, and at prices merely nominal. A great deal of good cot- ton cloth is made here by the women, and exchanged at Egas for straw hats and English prints brought from Para. There is very little money in circulation, cotton cloth, wax, and balls of sewing 202 THE AMAZON. cotton being used instead. English goods brought over the Andes sell in Tarapoto for four times their value in Lima. All the land carriage is performed by Indians, for want of roads : an Indian will carry 75 lbs. of goods on his shoulders from Tarapoto to Juan Guerra, whence he paddles in a canoe to Tinga-Maria, and there shoulders his burthen again, and carries it to Huanaco, the distance of which town from Tarapoto is 390 miles. The population of the place in 1848 was 3,500. Concerning its natural advantages and future prospects. Lieutenant Herndon thus speaks :^^ ' I spoke with an active and intelligent young Spanish trader, named Morey, about the feasibility of a steamboat enterprise upon these rivers, bringing American goods and taking return-cargoes of coffee, tobacco, straw-hats, hammocks, and sarsaparilla to the ports of Brazil on the river. He thought that it could not fail to enrich any oue who would attempt it ; but that the difficulty lay in the fact that my proposed steamer would never get as far as tliis, for that my goods would be bought up and paid for in return-cargoes long before she reached Peru. He thought, too, that the Brazilians along the river had money which they would be glad to exchange for comforts and luxuries. Were I to engage in any scheme of colonization for the purpose of evolving the resources of the Valley of the Amazon, I think I should direct the attention of settlers to this district of Tarapoto. It combines more advantages than any other I know ; it is healthy, fertile, and free from the torment of musquitoes and sand-flies. Wheat may be had from the high lands above it ; cattle thrive well ; and its coffee, tobacco, sugar-cane, rice, and maize are of fine quality. It is true that vessels caunot come up to Shapaja, the port of the town of Tarapoto ; but a good road may be made from this town eighteen mUes to Chasuta, to which vessels of five feet di-aught may come at the lowest stage of the river, and any draught at high water. Tara- poto is situated on an elevated plain twenty miles in diameter ; is seventy miles from Moyobamba, the capital of the province, a, city of seven thousand inhabitants ; and has close around it the villages of Lamas, Tabalosas, Juan Guerra, and Shapaja. The Ucayali is navigable higher up than this point, and the quahty of cotton and coffee seems better, within certain limits further from the equator. But the settler at the head-waters of the Ucayali has to place himself in a profound wilderness, with the forest and the savage to subdue, and entirely dependent upon his own resources. I think he would be better placed near where he can get provisions and assistance whilst he is clearing the forest and planting his fields. I am told that the governors of the districts in all the province of Mainas have authority to give titles to land to any one who desu-es to cultivate it.' Six leagues below Tarapoto is Chasuta, with a population of 1,200. The annual value of the trade between this place and the ports below is 1,500 dollai:s ; but all articles which can be carried THE AMAZON. 203 on the backs of Indians or mules come from Lima. Implements of iron, copper kettles, guns, earthenware, and glass, come from Para, and obtain prices which afford very large profits. Though the distance from this place to the mouth of the Amazon is above 3,000 miles, a 74-gun ship would find water enough, during the greater part of the year, to reach it from the sea. The villages of Yurimaguas, Santa Cruz, and Chamizuras, respectively 24, 35, and 89 leagues below Chasuta, have each a population of about 320, and in the woods around the last, valuable resins and gums abound. Half a mile below Yurimaguas is the mouth of the Cachiyacu, which is navigable for large canoes, from January to June, as far as Balza Puerto, a considerable village, five days' journey from Moyohamba, between which and the ports of the Amazon this river is the general route. It also serves as a means of communication with the many villages which dot the fine country between the Maranon and the Huallaga, so that Yurimaguas is probably des- tined to become an important place in the future. Laguna, 44 leagues below Chasuta, and four above the mouth of the Huallaga, has a population of 1,044. Urarinas, a village on the Amazon, five leagues from the mouth of the Huallaga, contains only 80 inha- bitants, but the immense number in the vicinity of the trees which produce gum copal mark it as an important place in the future. Nauta, on the right bank of the Amazon, 46 leagues below the junction of the Huallaga, has a population of 1,000. It is to this place that Brazil, by treaty with Peru, has engaged to run steamers, under the Brazilian flag, from Para, the contractors to have the monopoly of steam-boat navigation on the Amazon for thirty years, with an annual bonus of 100,000 dollars for the first fifteen. The voyage is to be performed by two steamers, one as- cending the Amazon from Para, the other descending it from Nauta, and meeting the up boat at Barra. Passing Omaguas, with its 240 inhabitants, Iquitos with its 227, and Avau with its 80, the mouth of the Napo is reached ; and thirteen leagues lower down is Pebas, with a population of 387. This place is embosomed in the immense forest, producing in abundance sarsaparilla, vanilla, stora.x, 204 THE AMAZON. copal, caoutchouc, and wax, which may be obtained from the In- dians in exchange for cotton goods, needles, beads, &c. Thirty- four pounds of sarsaparilla may be bought for 24 yards of common cotton, and other articles at a like proportionate price; but the great sarsapariUa country is along the banks of tne Ucayah and the Ahuaytia, where 100 lbs. of the drug, which are worth fully £5 at Para, and twice as much in Europe, may be bought for eight yards of cotton. As an iUustration of the circumambulatory manner in which the commerce of this extensive region is carried on, let us trace the progress of the cotton goods from the warehouse in Liverpool to the banks of the Ucayah. The goods have to be carried round Cape Horn to Callao, where duty is charged upon them, and whence it is conveyed to Lima, and across the Andes, on the backs of mules. Freight, land carriage, and commission cost more than the goods, and in about twelve months from the time of their leaving Liverpool they reach the mouth of the Ucayah, whence they are sent up by boat to Sarayacu, the centre of the sarsaparilla country, a distance of 300 miles. It is now exchanged for 100 lbs. of sarsaparilla, the value of which is 9 dollars at Nauta, 10^ at Tabatinga, 25 at Para, and from 40 to 60, according to the markets, in Liverpool. The voy- age is long, tedious, and circumgyratory, but the profits are enor- mous. Now, if the navigation of the Amazon were free, and ports of entry, open to all nations, were estabhshed at such places as Cha- suta and Nauta, not only would the trade be considerably increased, to the benefit of both parties, but the people of Peru and Brazil instead of eight yards of cotton for 100 lbs. of sarsapariUa, would get three or foiu- hundred yards. Such wiH soon be the case. Concerning the cost and profit of steam vessels on the Amazon, and the arrangements that would have to be made, Lieut. Herndon says : — ' I have estimated the annual cost of running a small steamer between Loveto, the frontier port of Peru aad Chasuta, a distance of eight hundi-ed miles, entirely within the Peruvian territory, at twenty thousand dollars, in- cluding the estabHshment of blacksmiths' and carpenters' shops at Nauta for her repairs. According to the estimate of Arebalo, (and I judge that he is THE AMAZON-. 205 very nearly correct,) the value of the hnports and exports to and from Brazil ia twenty thousand dollars annually. I have no doubt that the appearance of a steamer in these waters would at once double the value ; for it would, in the first place, convert the thousand men who are now employed in the fetch- ing and carrying of the articles of trade into producers, and would give a great impulse to trade by facilitating it. A loaded canoe takes eighty days to ascend these eight hi^dred miles. A steamer will do it in twelve, giving ample time to take in wood, to land and receive cargo at the various villages on the river, and to lay by at night.' Nearly midway between Loreto and Barra, and near the mouths of the Jurua, the Yapura, and the TeiFe, is Egas, with a population of about 800, which is the most thriving place above Barra. It has eight or ten commercial houses that carry on a brisk trade between Peru and Para, besides employing agents to ascend the neighbouring rivers, and collect from the Indians the produce of the country. Schooners of between 30 and 40 tons average five months in the round trip between Egas and Para, a distance of 1250 miles, the expenses being 150 dollars, including wages and rations of crew, and a tax of 13 per cent. Sarsaparilla and salt- fish are the principal exports, which are sold at Para for double what they cost at Egas, to which the vessels return with cotton goods, earthenware, and hardware, aU of the commonest descrip- tion, to be sold at an advance of 20 per cent, on Para prices. There are five vessels engaged in this trade, making two trips a year, so that the annual value of the trade between Egas and Para may be estimated at 38,000 dollars. Between Egas and Peru it is about 20,000 dollars. The vessels engaged in this trade are not well adapted to it ; they are too broad in the beam, and their sails are two small, so that the voyage occupies a great deal more time than it might be performed in by clipper-built and properly rig- ged vessels. The Comarca of the Rio Negro, one of the territorial divisions of the immense province of Para, has, within the last year, been erected into a province, with the title of Amazonas. A custom- house will probably soon be established at Barra, at the mouth of the Rio Negro, for the collection of the duties now paid at Para, and there can be no doubt that commercial enterprise will, in a 206 THE AMAZON. few years, bring the manufactures of Europe from Demerara by the Essequibo and the Rio Branco. The president of the new province, Senhor Joao B. de F. T. Aranha, is labouring for the good of the district, and has had many conferences with the chiefs of the Indian tribes with the view of inducing them to settle and engage in systematic agricultural labour. Lieutenant Herndon was told that Brazil would give titles to vacant lands to any foreigners who would settle there, and the President expressed a wish that he would bring out a thousand Americans to set an example of energy and industry to the natives.* The value in dollars of the exports of the entire Comarca in 1840 was as fol- lows :— -Sarsaparilla, 12,000 ; oil of turtle-eggs, 6,000 ; salt fish, 4,250 ; coffee, 1,000 ; copaiba, 1,000 ; tobacco, 720 ; cocoa, 600 ; heavy boards, 600 ; hammocks, 500 ; Brazil nuts, 350 ; pitch, tow, hides, tapioca, &c., 1,203 ; total, 28,323. That the trade is increasing will be seen by the exports of the town of Barra alone for the year 1850, the value of which in dollars was as follows : Salt-fish, 7,001 ; Brazil nuts, 5,203 ; sarsaparilla, 3,144 ; oil of turtle-eggs, 1,818 ; piasaba, l,802f ; ropes, 896 ; cocoa, 631 ; hammocks, 785 ; coffee, 474 ; tobacco, 616 ; planks, 250 ; Brazil- ian nutmegs, 100 1; copaiba, hides, tow, &c.; 304; total, 22,975. It will be seen that the exports of Barra alone in 1850 were not in value far below those of the whole province in 1840. It is proba- * Every one whom I conversed with on the subject of the Amazon advocates with earnestness tlie free navigation of the river, and says that they will never thrive until the river is thrown open to all, and foreigners are invited to settle on its banlts. I think that they are sincere, for they have quite intelligence enough to see that they will be benefited by calling out the resom'ces of the country. — Herndon, f Piasaba is a. species of palm from the bark of which is made nearly all the rope used upon the Amazon. The appearance of the rope made from it is similar to that of tlie East India coir. The fibres of the bark are brought down the rivers Negro and Branco, and made into ropes at Barra. J The Brazilian nutmeg is the fruit of a large tree that grows abundantly in the low moist lands between the rivers Negro and Yapura, above BarceUos, a village on the first named river. The fruit is round, and has a hard shell, containing two seeds, which are ligneous and aromatic, but not equal in flavour to the Ceylon nutmeg; though this may be owing to the want of cul- tivation. THE AMAZON. 207 ble that the vakie of the imports is nearly double that of the ex- ports, so that the trade of Barra with Para may fairly be esti- mated at £15,000 per annum. The population of Barra in 1848 was 3,848 persons ; the mar- riages in the year had been 115, the births 250, and the deaths 25. The number of inhabited houses was 470, so that upon an average of five persons to each family, there must be nearly two families to every house ; but 234 of the population were slaves, and probably the children exceed the adults in a greater propor- tion than the usual ratio of three to two. The Rio Negro, oppo- site the town, is a mile and a half wide, and very beautiful. It is navigable for almost any draught as far as Rio Maraya, a distance of about 400 miles ; there the rapids commence, and the further ascent must be made in canoes. A few miles above Barcellos is the mouth of the river Quiimi, which is known to run nearly up to the Tapura; and nearly opposite to San Isabel, two days journey from Barcellos, is the mouth of the Jurubashea, which also runs up to within a very short distance of the same river. Between these rivers the country is very low, and is often inun- dated; it is from this place that the Brazihan nutmegs are brought. Just above San Isabel great quantities of Brazil nuts are grown, and a little further up is the mouth of the Cababuri, where the finest sarsaparilla is produced. Cocoa of very superior quality is produced in abundance about San Carlos, at the mouth of the Cassiquiari, which is the frontier port of Venezuela. Most of the vessels which ply both on the Rio Negro and the Orinoco are built at this place, the Cassiquiari forming a natural canal connecting those two rivers. Lieutenant Herndon calculates that a flat-bottomed iron-steamer, constructed to pass the rapids, would make seventy-five miles a day against the current on the Rio Negro, and 125 miles a day with the current on the Orinoco. The distance from Barra to San Carlos is about 660 miles, from thence to the Orinoco 180 miles, from the junction of the Cassi- quiari and the Orinoco to Angostura 780 miles, and from Angos- tura to the mouth of the Orinoco 250 miles. The voyage between 208 THE AMAZON. Barra and the mouth of the last-named river might thus be made by such a vessel in 19^ days, allowing time to take in wood and recieve and discharge cargo ; and a canal cut through the isthmus of Tuamini would shorten the voyage by five days.* The Rio Branco, the principal tributary of the Negro, is navi- gable for large craft for about 300 miles from its mouth, but from thence it is interrupted by rapids, only passable by flat-bottomed boats. Its banks are very thickly wooded below the rapids, but above them the country is a wide plain, which affords pasturage to immense herds of cattle. The downward passage from San Joa- chim, near the sources of the river, to Barra, a distance of 500 miles, may be made in twelve days ; but the ascent is very tedious, owing to the rapids and the strong north-easterly winds. Scarcely any attempt at regular cultivation has yet been made in any part of Amazonas ; but the natural productions of its teem- ing soil are numerous as they are varied and valuable. The forests contain many trees which afford solid and durable timber, and others that furnish excellent cabinet woods, among which may be mentioned the beautiful muirapinima, or tortoise-shell wood. There are numerous plants, unknown in Europe, famous for their medicinal uses ; and others which produce valuable resins and oils. Wild cotton, with a fine glossy fibre, like silk, grows abundantly, and is used at Guayaquil to stuff mattresses. Some silk manufacturers in France, to whom specimens of this cotton were sent by Mr. Clay, the United States charge d'affaires * Since my departure from the banks of the Orinoco and the Amazon, a new era imfolds itself in the social state of the nations of the West. The fvary of civil discussions will be succeeded by the blessings of peace and a freer development of the arts of industiy. The bifurcation of the Orinoco, the isthmus of Tuamini, so easy to pass over by an artificial canal, will fix the attention of commercial Em-ope. The Cassiquiari — as broad as the Rhine, and the com-se of which is one hundred and eighty miles in length — will no longer form in vain a navigable canal between two basins of rivers, which have a surface of 190 000 square leagues. The grain of New Grenada will be carried to the banks of the Eio Negro- boats wiU descend from the sources of the Napo and the Ucayali, from the Andes of Quito' and upper Peru, to the mouths of the Orinoco— a distance which equals that from Tim- buctoo to Marseilles. A country nme or ten times larger than Spain, and enriched with the most varied productions, is navigable in every direction by the medium of the natural canal of the Cassiquiari and the bifiuxation of the rivers. This phenomenon, which one day will be so important for the political connexions of nations, unquestionably deserves to be carefully examined. — Btimholdt. THE AMAZON. 209 at Lima, thought that, mixed with silk, a cheap and pretty fabric might be wove from it. Santarem, a mile above the mouth of the Tapajos, which is there a mile and a half wide, is the largest town in the province after Para. In 1849 the population was 6,768, the number of marriages 32, of births 289, of deaths 42 ; but in this return is included the inhabitants of a large surrounding district. Lieut. Herndon estimated the population of the town alone at about 2,000. There is a church, and two or three primary schools. The situation is picturesque, and there are many agreeable rides in the environs. It is a thriving town, as is shown by the increase in the exports between 1843 and 1846. For three months of the former year the quantity of cocoa exported was 12,808 arrobas, and in the same period of 1846 it was 19,940 arrobas. Sarsapa- rdla increased from 665 to 4,836 arrobas, pitch from 64 to 933, tobacco from 499 to 3,352, cloves from 226 to 998, cotton from 24 to 226, oil of copaiba from 427 pots to 3,056 pots, and oil of turtle-eggs from 420 to 1,628 pots. Hides and piasaba rope appear in the hst for the first time in 1846, the number of the former exported being 664. The trade in farina had considerably decreased, probably owing to the increased importation of flour from the United States. The trade between Santarem and Para is carried on in schooners of about a hundred tons, of which there were five or six lying off the town when Mr. Herndon was there. The average passage downward is thirteen, and upward twenty- five days. From Santarem to Itaituba, a distance of about 200 miles, the Tapajos is navigable for large vessels, though the current is very strong ; but above the latter place the ascent can be made only by boats, as there are fifteen or twenty rapids to pass, where the boats have to be unloaded, and the cargoes carried round on the backs of the crew. At one or two of the rapids the boat itself has to be hauled over the land. The voyage to the head of navi- gation on the Rio Preto occupies about two months. From this point the cargoes are carried on the backs of mules to Diaman- p 210 THE AMAZON. tino, a distance of fifteen miles, and from thence to Cuiaba, the capital of the rich province of Matto Gros30, a further distance of ninety miles. In 1850 a nearer route was discovered, by ascend- ing the Arinos, below the mouth of the Preto, and employing oxen to drag the boat eighteen miles to the river Cuiaba, which is navi- gable thence to the town of that name ; but, for some reason or other, the trade is still carried on by the old route. Cuiaba receives from Santarem salt, iron, wines, arms, and earthenware, which it pays for with diamonds, gold-dust, and hides. M. Alphonse M. de Lincourt, who ascended the Tapajos a few years since, says that the forests, which extend from its banks far away on both sides, are inhabited by hostile Indians, who paint and tattoo themselves, and wear caps of feathers, and collars and bracelets of beads, shells, and jaguars' teeth. The Mundrucus, the most warlike tribe of the Amazon, number from fifteen to twenty thousand warriors, and are the terror of all the other tribes. Ninety miles below Santarem is the village of Prainha, situate on a green eminence on the left bank of the Amazon, with a popu- lation of about 500. Fifty-five miles below this place is the mouth of the little river Pani, our only knowledge of which is derived from the Indians, who report that the country through which it flows produces sarsapariUa and cloves, but that its current is very strong, its course broken by rapids, and the Indians who live on its banks are hostile. Seventy mUes below the mouth of the river, and on the right bank, is the village of Gurupa, with a population of 300, and a small trade in caoutchouc. Near this place is the mouth of tlie XingCi, of which very Uttle is known ; but the muni- cipal judge of Porto de ]\Ioz, near its mouth, who met jV[r. Herndon at the house of the mihtary commandant of Gurupa, informed that gentleman that it was obstructed by rapids within four days' journey from its mouth, and that boats could not ascend far up on account of the hostility of the Indian tribes on its banks. Thirty-five miles below Gurupa the Amazon spreads out to a width of nearly 150 miles, but it is divided into numerous channels bv ami'ltitude of islands, the principal of which is :\[arajo, whieli THE AMAZON. 211 contains about 10,000 square miles, and occupies about the middle of the river. The village of Breves, on this island, exports an- nually to Para about 3,000 arrobas of caoutchouc : it has a church and several shops, and has a thriving appearance. Three days' sailing lower down is the mouth of the Tocantins, which falls into the Bay of Limoeiro, a deep and wide indentation of the right bank of the Amazon. The Tocantins, according to M. Castelnau, who descended it in 1846, is an almost continuous succession of cata- racts and rapids ; but by unloading the boats at three places, and dragging them with ropes, it can be ascended as high as Porto Imperial, the voyage to which place from Para occupies from four to five months, but, owing to the fall in the river, the downward voyage may be performed in from twenty-five to thirty days. The opening of new markets to commercial enterprise must al- ways tend to increase the prosperity of the countries concerned, and the free navigation of the Amazon has become a question of the greatest importance. According to General Villamil, the Secre- tary of State of the republic of Equador, the Pastaga is navigable nearly up to Quito, and nothing is wanting but the removal of the restrictions which have unwisely been placed upon the naviga- tion of the Amazon to enable the merchants of Europe and the United States to send the manufactured goods of their respective countries to the very foot of the Andes, and take back in exchange the raw produce with which the Atlantic slopes of those mountains so largely abound. But because the mouth of the river is within Brazil, she once persisted in shutting out New Grenada, Equa- dor, Bolivia,* and Peru from the advantages which the Creator, in rolling its broad stream through their fertile plains and teeming valleys, intended they should enjoy. The reciprocal interests of all nations now imperatively demand that the barrier which these res- * Bolivia lias but one sea-port on the Pacific, that is C'ohija, an open roadstead and a miserable village, at the head of the great desert of Atacama. The land transportation between this port and the agricultural districts of the republic is too rough, too tedious, and too expensive ever to admit of its becoming a commercial emporium. The direction in which Bolivia looks for an outlet to a market for her produce, is along her navigable water-courses that empty into the Amazon, and then down that stream to the sea. — Maury's Valhtj of the Am'izoTt. p 2 212 THE AMAZON. trictions present to the progress of civilization in the interior of South America should be removed. One of the first results of the opening up of the vast regions watered by the Amazon and its tribu- taries to Anglo-Saxon enterprise would be a large influx of immi- grants, and this is precisely what is wanted to develope the bound- less natural resources of those countries.* Brazil is alive to the neces- sity. Persons unacquainted with the country, forming their opinion from other tropical regions, are apt to conclude that the climate is unhealthy, but this is very far from being the case. Similarity of latitude by no means produces similarity of chmate ; for England and Labrador are under the same parallel, but how difi'erent the cli- mates of the two countries. The elevation of a country is a better means of estimating its climate than its latitude, and the extent of wood and water liave also to be taken into account. The province of Caxamarca which is watered by the Peruvian tributaries of the Amazon, is one of the most healthy portions of the globe. Mr. Edwards, who, as already observed, ascendedthe Amazon in 1846, and resided some time at Para, says : — ' It seems singular that, directly under the equator, where, through a clear atmosphere, the sun strikes vertically upon the earth, the heat should he less oppressive than in the latitude of New York ; this is owing to several causes. The days are but twelve hours long, and the earth does not become so in- tensely heated as where they are sixteen. The vast surface of water con- stantly cools the air by its evaporation, and removes the irksome dryness that, in temperate regions, renders a less degree of heat insupportable. And, finally, the constant winds blowing from the sea refresh and invigorate the system.' * Vast, many, and great, doubtless, are the varieties of climates, soils, and productions within such a range. The importance to the world of settlement, cultivation, and com- merce in the Valley of the Amazon cannot be over-estimated. "With the climates of India, and of all the habitable portions of the earth, piled one above the other in quick succession, tillage and good husbandry here would transfer the productions of the East to this magnificent river-basin, and place them within a few days' easy sail of Europe and the United States. Only a few miles back we had first entered the famous mmmg districts of Peru. A large portion of the silver wMch constitutes the cu-culation of the world was dug fi'om the range of mountains upon which we were standing, and most of it came fi.-om that slope of them which is drained ofi' into the Amazon. Is it possible for commerce and navigation up and down this majestic water-course and its beautiful tri- butaries to turn back this stream of silver from its western course to the Pacific, and conduct it, with steamers, down the Amazon to the United States, there to balance the sti-eara of gold with which we are likely to be flooded from California and Australia ?- Eerndoiis Exploration of the Valley of the Amazon. THE AMAZON. 213 He adds that the temperature is so equable, that the chmate is peculiarly favourable to health, that no form of epidemic disease is known, and that the average duration of life is probably as high as in New York. The salubrity of the climate,* therefore, the fertility of the soil, its mineral riches, and the number and length of its navi- _ gable rivers, combine to render the region watered by the Amazon and its tributaries a most ehgible field for the emigrant.f All that the country wants is increased facilities for commerce and for deve- loping its immense natural resources, and these would be given to it by the opening of the Amazon and immigration.! * On the subject of climate, I refer to the annexed chapter by my valued friend, Dr. Dundas, who has kindly complied with my solicitation to enrich this volume with a contribution in which he has epitomised, for popular use, and in a most simple form, some of the results of his great pro- fessional experience and scientific research ; and I am sure I only anticipate the verdict of the reader, whether medical or otherwise, in declaring the an- nexed pages to be as completely exhaustive of the subject treated of as any reasonable limits of a work of this nature would possibly admit. t Mr. Wallace, in his ' Travels on the Amazon and the Rio Negro,' observes — ' In the districts we passed through, sugar, cotton, coffee, and rice might be grown in any quantity, and of the finest quality. The navigation is always safe and uninterrupted, and the whole country is so intersected by igaripes and rivers that every estate has water carriage for its productions. But the indo- lent disposition of the people, and the scarcity of labour, will prevent the ca^ pabUities of this fine country from being developed till European or North American colonies are formed. There is no country where people can pro- duce for themselves so many of the necessaries and luxuries of life. . . And then what advantages there are in a country where there is no stoppage of agricultui'al operations during winter, but where crops may be had, and poul- try be reared, aU the year round ; where the least possible amount of clothing- is the most comfortable, and where a hundred little necessaries of a cold re- gion are altogether superfluous. X Its capacities for trade and commerce are inconceivably great. Its industrial future is tlie most dazzling ; and to tlie toucli of steam, settlement, and cultivation, this rolling stream and its magniiicent water-shed would start up into a display of industrial results that would make the Valley of the Amazon one of the most enchanting regions on the face of the earth. From its mountains you may dig silver, iron, coal, copper, quicksilver, zinc, and tin ; from the sands of its tributaries you may wash gold, diamonds, and pre- cious stones ; from its forests you may gather drugs of virtues the most rare, spices of aroma the most exquisite, gums and resins of the most useful properties, dyes of hues the most brilliant, with cabinet and building woods of the iinest polish and most endwing texture. Its climate is an everlasting summer, and its harvest pereimial. — Herndon, ON beazil: its climate and people. BY EGBERT DTINDAS, M.D., PHYSICIAN TO THE NORTHERN HOSPITAli, LIVERPOOL; FORMERLY SURGEON TO HER majesty's 60TH REGIMENT; AND FOR TWENTY-THREE YEARS MEDICAL SUPERINTENDENT OF THE BRITISH HOSPITAL, BAHIA. Climate of Brazil. — Its salubrity. — Proofs of, causes of, obj ections to. — Northern, southern, and central provinces. — Equability of temperature. — Heat. — Humidity. — Rain. — Winds. — Electricity. — Hail. — Ice. — Tropical heat andlijjht. — Influence on Europeans* — In health and in disease. — Acclimatization. — Increase of certain diseases. — Others mo- dified. — Insanity. — Yellow fever. — Its probable disappearance. — Ancient -writers on the epidemics of Brazil : Kocha Pita, Pere Labat, Feriera da Rosa. — Physical, social, and moral condition of the Brazilians. — Habits and religion of the people. — Prophylactic measures. In a publication like the present, any elaborate disquisition on the climate and people of Brazil would be obviously misplaced, at the same time that a brief notice of these important subjects should not be altogether omitted. The Brazilian empire placed chiefly in the southern hemisphere, extend- ing from 4° 20" N. lat. to 33° 55" S., is widely intersected by lakes rivers and mountains, and bounded by the South Atlantic, by the highest mountains, and by the two most magnificent rivers in the world : it enjoys, beyond dispute, one of the finest climates of the globe, and may be fairly designated as 'the Italy' of the New World. The heat, intense at Para on the equator, moderates as we approach the central provinces of the empire, and becomes altogether European on reaching the southern regions of Rio Grande and the Uruguay; whilst the climate of the entire line of coast is tempered by a cool and never-failing breeze. It should how- ever be borne in mind that climate cannot be justly measured by latitude, and that we must, in all instances, take into consideration the position and the elevation of the district, the nature and surface of the soil, and its consequent capacity for the absorption and the radiation of heat. First, then, as regards heat, which may be termed the distinctive element of the climate of Brazil. The mean heat of Brazil ranges from 88° to 81° F., according to the different seasons of the year. Rio Grande do Sul. — The summer temperature is 87° to 88° ; the winter, 40° to 44°. Saint Catherine. — The summer heat never passes 90° m the sun ; and descends to 64° in winter — June and July. Saint Paul. — Mean temperature, 72°. MiNAS Geraes. — Max., 84° summer ; min., 54° winter. Eio Janeiro. — The mean temperature of 30 years was 73° : in December the max., 89|°; min., 70°; mean, 79°; in July (coldest month), max 79°^ min., 66° ; mean, 73^° ' ' Bahia.— Summer : 74° morning; noon, 80° ; evening, 75J°. DR. DtJNDAS ON BRAZIL : ITS CLIMATE AND PEOPLE. 215 Pebnambuco. — Summer : Varies from 77° to 86°, with a alight decline in the rainy season. Ceara. — 95° in the hottest months ; 83° in the coldest.. Maeanham. — St. Louis reaches 93°; and Para, on the line, maintains about the same temperature. The hottest period of the day, on the sea coast, is about 11 a.m., when the sea-breeze commonly sets in and moderates the temperature. The thermo- meter ranges in the northern provinces on the coast, at midday, 75° to 77" from March to September, and 77° to 85° from September to March ; whilst at forty to fifty miles inland a high range of temperature almost invari- ably prevails. The barometrical variations are less extensive than those of the thermometer; but the range of the hygrometer is considerable in the southern provinces. The object, however, of the present work prohibits our entering minutely on these questions, or on the geology of Brazil; and we must therefore refer our readers to the scientific labours of M.M. Eschwege, Sellow, Spix and Martius, and Saint HUaire, and especially to the valuable and more recent investigations of M. Pissis, who has explored the country from 13° to 26° south latitude, and 40°. to 52° west longi- tude, including in this vast polygon the provinces of Minas Geraes, St. Paul, Eio de Janeu-o, Espirito Santo, and Bahia.* The observations oi Herschel, Humboldt and others, prove that both heat and cdd, up to 34th degree of latitude, are much more moderate in the southern than in the northern hemisphere ; in addition to which, Brazil, covered by extensive forests and consequent moisture, the surface clothed with perpetual verdure, from which the solar heat is but feebly refiected, its skies ever bright and a never-failing breeze, constitute a climate of un- equalled mildness in any other region of the tropical world. HcMiDiTT : This grand and universal source of vegetable life in high latitudes is infinitely more detrimental to man than even the highest solar heat. Hu- midity, indeed, is the great modifier of all climates, and constitutes the chief element of their insalubrity. The hygrometrical variations of BrazU have been studied by numerous observers, amongst whom the most accurate as well as the most recent is M. Pissis, and to his conclusions we shall briefly allude, confining ourselves to the climate of the capital, Kio de Janeiro, which, not- withstanding its clear atmosphere, holds in solution just double the quantity of aqueous vapour sustained by the sombre, foggy air of Paris ! a fact explained however by the high temperature of the one, as compared with the low tem- perature of the other, the capacity of air for retaining moisture being in nearly exact proportion to its temperature. M. Pissis arrives at tthe following results : — 1. From May to October, when the air is serene, the quantity of vapour varies little throughout the day. During the other months, the minimum cori'esponda with sum-ise, and attains its maximum about 4 p.m. ; but the variations are trifling. 2. That on rainy days the air is always near its point of saturation, though * Comte-rendu de rAcad^mie des Sciences de Juillet, 18i3, and Leg IKmoires des Savante strangers de ^ 843. 216 DR. DTJNDAS ON BRAZIL : ITS CLIMATE ASTU PEOPLE. the amount of vapour dissolved little exceeds that of the preceding clear weather: this is due to the lower temperature of the rainy days. 3. That humidity increases from the month of June to February, when it attains its maximum, which is about double that of June ; from this maxi- mum it declines until it reaches its former amount in June and July. 4. That the absorbing power of the air is lowest at sunrise, and attains its maximum about 2 p.m., the hottest period of the day. In like manner as regards the year, it augments in proportion as the sun advances to the southern tropic, and attains its maximum in December and January, and then declines until the cloudy months of June and July. Rain : The wet season sets in at different epochs along the coast of Brazil, and is subject to great variation. At Rio the rains commonly commence in March, and last till September; at St. Paul, in October and November, and continue till April; whilst at St. Catherine the four seasons are, as in Europe, pretty distinctly defined — July and the following three months wet^ cloudy, and boisterous. These latter provinces, placed just beyond the Tropic of Capricorn, enjoy the advantages of a tropical climate without its inconveni- ences. Rio Grande do Sul is wet and stormy in the winter months, hut otherwise healthy. In the provinces north of Rio, including Bahia and Pernambuco, the raius set in commonly about the end of March, and con- tinue uutU August ; and as we follow the coast to the equator, including the provinces of Ceaba, Maranham, and Para, storms are frequent, and the rains commence in December or January ; August, September, October, and November being the dryest or summer months. The foregoing may be taken as the rule, but the exceptions are numerous ; and the winter of the coast does not extend beyond 100 miles into the interior, which is watered, chiefly, by frequent storms. Winds : The general winds of tropical regions are eastern ; and in Brazil the prevailing currents along the coast, from St. Catherine to Maranham, are E. S.E., and S.S.E., during the southern, and E.N.E. and N.N.E. during the northern monsoon ; subject however to much iiTegularity. The land breeze sets in from 9 to 11 p.m., and lasts tiE morning, increas- ing in force and regularity as we approach the equator; and its strength is generally in proportion to that of the sea breeze which precedes it. As in other tropical countries, the sea breeze prevails more in the hot, and the land breeze in the cold season of the year ; they favour the appearance of certain maladies and check others, and constitute, after heat and moisture the chief element in the determination of disease — the salubrity of any country depending more, perhaps, on its winds than on its latitude. Bleotrioity: All tropical regions are distinguished by intensity of electrical phenomena, and Brazil forms no exception to the law. Reaumur maintains, and we believe justly, that a difference of 5° in the thermometer decidedly affects the nervous system ; and that all living organisms are powerfully influenced by electrical changes no close observer in equatorial regions can for an instant question. In Brazil, the most intense variations are noticed about the change of the monsoons, and the storms of hghtniug and thunder originatmg in the great chain of the Organ Mountains, which burst over Rio, are grand and DR. DUNDAS ON BRAZIL : ITS CLIMATE AND PEOPLE. 217 awful beyond the possibility of description ; whilst the profound influence of these changes on individuals is strongly pourtrayed in the moral and physical prostration of some, and the high nervous excitement of others. Saussure has shown that an excess of watery saturation diminishes atmospheric pressure ; and the effect of certain conditions of the atmosphere on the human economy in tropical climates cannot for a moment be denied : for example, when the weather is wet and cloudy, the sun obscured, and the air calm; all animal life lajiguishes. The Brazilians distinguish-this state of atmosphere by a particular term, ' mor- ma^o,' and during it? continuance, especially in summer, the mental and bodily powers of man seem alike paralysed, and are only restored to activity when the rain has descended and the breeze resumed its power over the close and stagnant atmosphere. Here electricity plays an important part. In connec- tion with this subject, it is remarkable that Brazil should have hitherto escaped those formidable earthc[uakes which have so often desolated the fairest regions of South America. Poas are rare in Brazil, and seen only in the morning, on low and marshy grounds, and in the neighbourhood of riyers and lakes. Hail often falls in Minas, St. Paul, and the south, and even occa- sionally at Rio. Ice is sometimes met with at Bio Grande in the winter, and even on the Organ Mountains, close to Rio, but never snow. Waterspouts have been, at long intervals, observed on the coast and in the interior ; the last of any importance was observed at San Marcos in 1823. Based on the foregoing and other data, we shall now submit certain general conclusions on the climate of BrazU, and its influence on the human constitution in health and disease ; these conclusions must be taken as more especially refer- ring to the seaboard and the large cities on the coast ; and the reader should bear in mind that some allowance must also be made for the difference in position and latitude of the northern, the southern, and the central provinces. We would further premise, that these observations are founded on our own personal experience of nearly a quarter of a century, and prior to the advent of the yellow fever which, for the last four or five years, has infested the maritime cities of the empire, and on which we shall presently offer some remarks. The great characteristic of Brazil, as compared with other countries, is the general equability of its climate, and which constitutes, in fact, the chief element of its salubrity. This unparalleled uniformity of temperature must be chiefly ascribed to the absence of high and mountainous regions, and of all arid and sandy deserts, aided by the genial influence of refreshing showers at aU seasons of the year ; it is further maintained by the perpetual verdure of the country, and by a cool, powerful, and never-failing monsoon, laden with moisture, and sweeping along the entire line of coast direct from the Southern Atlantic. Thus, even in the height of summer, the diurnal heat is rarely found oppressive to the European, and the nights are almost invariably serene and beautiful, and unattended with much deposition of dew, especially in the northern and central provinces ; so that the delightful coolness of tropical moonlight may be enjoyed undisturbed by those visions of fever and malaria which float before the imagination in less favoured lands. If precautions be observed to avoid exposure to direct currents of air, the windows of the 218 DH. DUNDAS O^i BRAZIL : ITS CLMATB AND PBOPLE. sleeping chamber may also be left open with impunity at all seasons of the year; an advantage that can scarcely be over estimated in high latitudes, as disposing to sound and refreshing sleep ; which, more perhaps than any other influence enables the European constitution to resist the deleterious effects of climate, just as a succession of hot and sleepless nights invariably predisposes the human system to be impressed by every tropical malady. In proof of the singular salubrity of Brazil, we need only state that, until within the last four years, although its provinces have been at intervals visited by revolutions, wars, and famine, the country has hitherto escaped from all those epidemic and endemic scourges — yellow fever, cholera, influenza, typhus, and dysentery — ^which have so frequently desolated other, and the fairest re- gions of the globe. In this favoured land the solar heat proves scarcely less influential and salutary to animal than to vegetable Ufe ; and years of subse- quent exhaustion can never entirely efface from the recollection of the Euro- pean sojourner the buoyancy of spirit, unclouded mind, and exquisite apprecia- tion of mere animal existence which marked the first years of his residence in Brazil. These vivid sensations may be in part determined by the novelty and splendour of a New World, its brilliant skies, perpetual verdure, and the variety, luxuriance, and beauty of its vegetable life ; but they are cliiefly due to the di- rect influence of the heat and light of a tropical sun, supplying a new and power- ful stimulus to the performance of all the functions of animal and organic life. The medal, unfortunately, has its reverse : this favourable condition of the animal economy proves, as in vegetable life under similar circumstances, but of limited duration ; and from five to seven years may be set down as the average period at which a tropical residence begins to affect the European constitution to such an extent as to influence longevity or injure health; the precise epoch being detennined by the constitution, occupation, predis- position, and habits of the individual. It should be here stated that the month of AprU is that best suited to the stranger's arrival in Brazil, as affording time for his gradual acclimatisation to the summer heat of December, January, and February; though we may observe, and the fact is singular, that the European suffers but little inconvenience from the highest temperature during the first years of his residence, just as the Brazilian seldom complains of the winter cold on his first arrival in Europe. The chief objection to the climate is, in addition to high temperature, its great humidity; shown in the' rapid decomposition of all organized, and certain inorganic matter, the quick oxidation of metals, deliquescence of salts, destruction of wood, &c. &c. ; and after a certain interval, the depression of moral and physical energy in man. The deleterious effects of this condition of atmosphere on the animal economv is happily tempered, if not entirely corrected in Brazil, by the general equai^ bility of its cHmate, and the influence of a cool and never-failing breeze, so that a stagnant, or even calm, state of the atmosphere is almost entirely unknown. Were this otherwise, the chief cities of Brazil inundated by the most offensive animal and vegetable exhalations,* and with an almost total neglect of those policial and sanatory regulations so essential to the public * Within the last feiv years this censure does not so strongly apply. DR. DUNDAS ON BRAZIL : ITS CLIMATE AND PEOPLE. 219 health in other countriea, would, we are satisfied, prove no less fatal to man than the charnel houses of Africa and the West Indies. In estimating, however, the influence of climate on the public health, the moral and physical condition of the people demands especial consideration. The Brazilian is in general well-formed, compact, and of healthy organization, but not of athletic frame. His intellectual faculties are acute, though little deve- lopedby cultivation. Descended from European ancestors, he has stiU a consider- able admixture of African, and some native American blood. He is indolent by nature, and indisposed for active exertion or industry; but he is protected against the evil influence of the former on his health by a simple and abstemious diet, and the injurious consequences of the latter to his social position are obviated by the fact that the four great wants of the humbler classes in Europe press but lightly on the Brazilian. Fuel he scarcely requires, clothing but little; his primitive habitation is simply constructed, and one day's labour will amply provide for the moderate demands of the whole week. With passions naturally quick, he is nevertheless placable; his disposition is kindly; the future rarely disturbs him with its doubts, or the past with its regrets : the struggles and vicissitudes of European life are unknown. The contentions of party, the yearnings of ambition, the bitterness of fanaticism, never disturb Ms repose ; and after gliding down the stream of time, unscathed by the tumultuous pas- sions and harassing cares which so frequently embitter the existence and un- dermine the constitution of man in other countries, he meets at length the inevitable doom, if not with phOosophy, at least with resignation, satisfied of his claims to eternal felicity in the confident assurance of an infallible church. From the preceding account of Brazil and its inhabitants, we would be led to conclude, a priori, that disease would there assume a mild and tractable character ; and this inference we find fully borne out, until within the last twenty years, by the medical and general history of the country. Within the last thirty years, however, vast changes — moral, social, and political — have been developed in Brazil, and it interests alike the philosopher and the phy- sician to mark how profoundly these changes have ah-eady impressed and modified the manners, habits, and diseases — nay, even the physiognomy of its people. After a brief struggle, the estabhshment of Brazil as an independent empire was effected in 1823 ; and since that epoch the country and its popula- tion have undergone a series of remarkable and comprehensive pohtical and social changes. From the strict and simple forms of despotic government they have passed, at a bound, to one almost of license ; including household suffrage, popular legislative assemblies (imperial and provincial), open courts of law, trial by jury, local justices, and a national guard elected on popular principles. This sudden and premature concession of political privileges to a people yet in the infancy of civilization has been naturally attended by great and numerous evUs, mingled, it must be admitted, with many and great advan- tages. In the intoxication of a new-born freedom, the empire has committed numerous excesses ; province has been arrayed against province, in a succes- sion of intestine broils ; the laws have been inefficiently or corruptly admuiis- tered ; and a lax morality has but too generally pervaded the whole commu- nity. On the other hand, an extensive and well-organized system of national 220 DE. DmrDAB on beazil: its climate and people. education has been established throughout the empire ; the slumbering intel- lectual powers of the nation have been aroused ; wealth and intelligence de- veloped; political and military ambition awakened; commercial enterprise created ; agriculture revived ; and of all those mighty powers which move and mould societies, the controlling influence of religion has alone remained sta- tionary. The priesthood, deprived of wealth, power, and influence, has utterly lost its prestige, unless, perhaps, with the very lowest classes of the community — a question of curious speculation as regards the cause, and of vast import- ance as regards its future results on the character and institutions of the Bra^ zOian people. In addition to the foregoing rapid transition of society into new forms and combinations of social existence, we find the face of the country changed by the march of civilization and agricultural improvement, — woods cleared, roads opened, internal and external navigation developed, population largely increased, and the great maritime cities of the empire assuming an importance second to none, and superior to most, of the cities of the new world. Coeval with these great and rapidly advancing changes, we can already dis- cern some of those evils too commonly attendant on increased wealth, luxury and intelligence: anxieties, excesses, passions are largely multiplied, and the medical observer cannot fail to distinguish, amongst certain ranks of the hitherto contented and indolent BraziUaus, unequivocal traces of that premature ' wear and tear,' so strongly and painfuUy characteristic of high civilization. It now only remains that we should briefly notice the ex- tent to which certain great classes of disease have been influenced and modi- fied by the preceding moral and physical agencies. This is chiefly manifested in the increasing number of cerebral and pulmonary maladies, and diseases of the heart and great vessels. Insanity has also become much more frequent than formerly, though still rare as compared with other nations; which, indeed, might be inferred from the fact that the ' Mad Doctor ' is a species of the profession as yet unknown to Brazil. Suppurative inflammation of the liver has increased, but of all the acute diseases, fevers have been the most profoundly modified ; they partake much more generally of the low, or asthenic character, and assume the remittent and continued type, and are greatly more fatal in their results than formerly. This naturally brings us to the import- tant question of the ' yellow fever,' which for the last four or five years has ravaged the great maritime cities of the empire. Its origin has given rise to the most conflicting views, amongst the best observers ; for example Dr. PenneU of Rio, and Dr. Paterson of Bahia, both men of undoubted talent and great professional experience, entertain precisely opposite opinions- the former contending for the indigenous, the latter for the foreign origin of the disease ; and both offer cogent arguments and striking facts in support of these opposite conclusions. The scope of this work does not admit of medical discussion, yet as the facts observed by Dr. PenneU are highly im- portant, and as his conclusions entirely coincide with our own experience, we will condense them here. Dr. Peunell states that for some years the fevers of the country had been clearly changing their character, that the genuine remittent had been little seen for three years ; that it was replaced in 1847 '48, and '49, by a fever of its own class, popularly known as the 'polka fever,' DR. DTJNDAS ON BRAZIL : ITS CLIMATB AND PEOPLE. 221 but in reality a remittent ; and that this fever was, in its turn, superseded by the 'yellow fever,' a disease with similar features: he adds the following words, * coincident with these and other chang-es in the diseases of Brazil, the climate, in its broad features, has altered strangely : thunder-storms, formerly of daily occurence, at a certain hour, during the summer, are now but seldom heard, &c.,' and concludes, ' that bDious remittent and yeUow fever are essen- tially the same disease,' — a proposition entirely in accordance with my own experience in Brazil and other countries. The abettors of the foreign origin of yellow fever insist that it was imported by a certain ship from New Orleans into Bahia, and thence diffused throughout the empire ; whilst the facts adduced by Dr. Pennell go far to establish, as already stated, its indi- genous parentage. In support of this opinion we have the strong additional fact that, for the last forty years, there has existed uncontrolled by any effi- cient quarantine laws, an extensive intercourse with the United States, Africa, and the West Indies, the very hot-beds of yellow fever ; and yet, up to 1849, Brazil remained perfectly healthy. Can we then in reason believe, if the disease be deemed really importable, that the maritime cities of BrazU could, under such circumstances, have escaped infection for a period of forty years ? It is moreover important to know that several of the older writers, as Rocha Pita in 1666, Fere Labat in 1686, Fereira da Rosa in 1694, have recorded the appearance of epidemics closely resembling the yellow fever, and which, after persisting for some years and desolating several of the large cities on the coast, finally passed away. Some seventy years ago, the capital itself was visited by an epidemic fever no less fatal to the population than that from which it now suffers. From the above and other facts, we are firmly convinced that the yellow fever which now afBicts Brazil is not an imported disease, but owes its origin to certain obscure atmospheric disturbances, embracing variations of tempera^ ture, hygrometric influence, electrical tension, atmospheric pressure, &c. ; and judging from the previous history of BrazU, we beMeve that these unfavourable conditions are but temporary and will pass away, and that the country will again resume its former character of unparalleled salubrity amongst the tropical regions of the globe.* Prophylactic Measukes. — ^A few words on the precautions to be adopted by temporary as well as permanent residents in BrazU may perhaps prove useful. In the first place, all the ordinary hygienic laws should be attended to ; the habitation selected should be in a dry locality, on a moderate elevation, and well ventilated, but at the same time protected against strong currents of wind ; lengthened or direct exposure to the sun's rays should be avoided, and all sudden vicissitudes of temperature guarded against. Loose waistcoats without sleeves, of fine flannel, should be worn next the skin, during the day, but never slept in ; sleeping in the open air or unprotected, should be avoided. After exposure to rain, the clothes should be immediately changed ; after ex- * Since the above lines were written, we have had later intelligence (14th January, 1854,) from Brazil, stating the important fact that the disease had totally disappeared from all the seaports of the empire. 222 DE. DUNDAS ON BRAZIL : ITS CLIMATE AND PEOPLE. haustion by exercise, or from any other cause, collapse or chiU must be carefully guarded against, by ayoiding for a time exposure to the cool breeze or by taking some slight stimulant, as coffee, wine, or a little spirits. Spirits, otherwise, should be altogether avoided, and wine resorted to only at dinner, in great moderation, and by those accustomed to its use. Generally, animal food should be used only at dinner ; no supper ; and no stimulating drinks, however diluted, should be taken between meals. Ripe fruit may be used before breakfast, and after the middle of the day, but neyer after the principal meal. Moderation in every sense must he observed. When compelled to go out early in the morning, the individual should take some support. In warm and swampy districts, over fatigue, or prolonged exposure to the sun, cannot be too carefully avoided, and the use of quinine, in moderate doses, should never be neglected ; the cold bath, or cold sponging, every morning on getting out of bed, should be constantly resorted to. The sleeping apartments should be cool and well ventilated, but not exposed to strong currents of air. Of all the above principles, refreshing sleep is the most eificient preserva- tive to the European constitution against the inroads of tropical disease ; but unless the above rules are pretty closely observed, sound and refreshing sleep in equatorial latitudes is unattainable. The morale must never be lost sight of, and a calm and cheerful disposition of mind should be especially encouraged. The above prophylactic measui-es apply with equal or greater force to the European seaman on arrival in Brazil. In addition, awnings by day and by night are absolutely indispensable to health. Fatigue and dockyard duties, and watering expeditions, should never be permitted during the mid-day heat, nor should the seaman ever be permitted to sleep out of his vessel. The high importance of this latter injunction will be obvious from the fact that a differ- ence oiffty degrees will be found often to obtain between the heat of a mid- day tropical sun and the air near the earth's surface at sun-rise. Surely, then, we need not evoke the phantom Malaria to account for the sudden superven- tion of malignant or fatal disease in seamen, or others, exposed during sleep to such great and sudden transitions of temperature, especially when their animal and organic powers have been depressed by previous exertion and pro- fuse perspiration under a tropical sun, aided, too often, by intemperance and other excesses. Nee Dsus intersit nisi digniis vindice noilus. Finally, we are profoundly convinced, by long and large observation, that if the foregoing principles are attended to, the most formidable localities of southern climates may be encountered with impunity, and especially as reo-ards that dreaded, but visionary enemy. Malaria or marsh poison.* * By lat2 a{?".o!mts fvoni Pemambuoo we notice tlic death of Anna Vieira, aged 150. RIO DE LA PLATA, The sea-like Plata, to whose di'ead expanse, Continuous depth, and wondrous length of course. Our floods are rills. "With unabated force, In silent dignity they sweep along ; And traverse realms unknown, and blooming wilds, And fruitful deserts, worlds of solitude ! Where the sun smiles and seasons teem in vain, Unseen, and unenjoyed. Forsaking these. O'er peopled plains they fau--diffusive flow ; And many a nation feed ; and cncle safe. In their soft bosom, many a happy isle ; The seat of blameless Pan, yet undistui'bed By Christian crimes and Europe's cruel sons. Thus pom-ing on they proudly seek the deep, Whose vanquished tide, recoiling from the shock. Yields to this liquid weight of half the globe ; And Ocean trembles for his green domain. But what avails this wondi'ous waste of wealth, This gay profusion of luxurious bliss? This pomp of Nature? what their balmy meads, Their powerful herbs, and Ceres void of pain, By vagrant birds dispersed, and wafting winds ? What their unplanted fruits? What the cool draught-s. The ambrosial food, rich gums, and spicy health. Their forests yield? Their toiling insects what? Their silky pride, and vegetable robes ? Whate'er the humanizing Muses teach ; The god-like wisdom of the tempered breast ; Progressive truth ; the patient force of thought ; Investigation calm, whose silent powers Command the world ; the Light that leads to Heavkx ; Kind equal rule ; the government of laws. And all-protecting Freedom, which alone Sustains the name and dignity of IMan ; These are not theirs. — Thomson. t Srit WM. rjORE OUSELKV, K.C.B. — L^'E IIEIi MA.IKSTY's MINISTER PLENIPOTKNTI Alt Y TO THE STATES OE I,A PLATA, AND FORMERLY CHABOE d'AEFAIRES AT THE COURT OF BRAZIL. 226 DIPLOMACY IX Note to tiir Portrait— The sketch in the preceding page is copied from an early lilceness, but can liardly be con-iidered an accurate one now. In a book of this nature, which owes much of whatever attractiveness it may possess to his permission to avail of the pictorial and literary memoranda of his pro- longed sojourn in South America, and especially in a chapter on the Biver Plate, in whose affairs he played so important a part in the chief crisis of its history, fall biographical details of Sir W. Gore Ouseley's career may reason- ably be anticipated. For such pui-pose, however, the writer has access only to the ordinary data to be found in works of public reference ; nor, if others of a private nature were open, would it, perhaps, be in the best taste to insert them here, as they would necessarily be supposed to be used with an unduly partial bias. Without entering at length into details more fitted for a gene- alogical work than for our pages, it will suffice to say that, previous to the sixteenth century, the Ouseley family was allied to several of the most ancient and honourable patrician names of this country, and thus their ancestry can be traced to a remote period. The Irving family, into which the late Sir W. Ouseley (father of Sir W. Gore Ouseley) married, is allied to the Douglases, the Hollos, and many other noble Scotch families. Referring to ' Burke's Baro- netage,' and ' Landed Gentry,' ' Dod's Knightage' for 1854, and other cognate authorities, we find that Sir W. G. Ouseley is descended from an ancient Shrop- shire family who settled in Northamptonshire in 1571, the then head of the family, Richard Ouseley Ouseley, having received from Queen Elizabeth, under whom he was a judge, a grant of the estate of Courteen HaU, in that county, with many of the most eminent families in which the Ouseleys were connected, such as the Actons of Alderham, as also the Barons Giffard of Brinsfield, and Barons Lestrange of Blackmere.* Nicholas Ouseley, a relative of Richard Ouseley Ouseley, was envoy to the courts of' Spain and Portugal, and some of his correspondence with Sir Francis Walsingham is preserved among the Harleian MSS. in the British Museum. John, son of Richard Ouse- \ey, was knighted by James I. in 1603, for his gallant conduct during the war in Ireland with the tui'bulent Earl of Tyrone. The diplomatic services of Sir John are mentioned in a subsequent note, and by Purchas in his 'Pilgrims.' Sir Richard Ouseley, his son, held the commission of major in the royalist army dui'ing the civil war between Charles I. and the Parliament, and in con- sequence of debts incurred in support of the royal cause he was obliged to sell Courteen Hall in 1650. The family then settled in Ireland, where they held Ballinasloe Castle, and afterwards Dunmore Castle, in the county of Galway, which latter remained in the family until the death of Major Ralph Ouseley, grandfather of Sir William Gore Ouseley. The major was a great antiquarian, and had a very fine collection of Irish antiquities, MSS., &c. His eldest son, * Since the above was ivritten, we have learned incidentally that a letter exists from a near relative of the late Sir William Ouseley, who took a great interest in genealogical studies, and had traced the Ouseley family to a high antiquity, in which the writer, after relating how he had been foiled in endeavouring to trace a particular ancestor, adds, ' I have proved onr descent lineally from the Carlovingian, Merovingian, and Capctiau monarchs of France, the Saxon and Norman kings of England, and the ancient kings of Scotland, Ireland, and Wales. I think that is enough in all conscience, in addition to nineteen of King John's twentv-five barons.' THE lUVEll TLATE. 227 Sir William Ouseley, served in the 8th Dragoons during- the unfortunate cam- paign in Holland, whei-e the British forces were commanded by the Dolce of York ; but after attaining the rank of major, he abandoned war for the more congenial pursuit of literature, and became a member of most of the learned and scientiiic societies of Europe. He published ' Travels in Persia,' (to which country he accompanied his brother, Sir Gore Ouseley, in 1810,) and many other works on Eastern antiquities and literature, in which he has left a mine of Oriental and classical learning that will always remain a monument of his great industry and talent. Sir G. Ouseley was the first ambassador accredited from the court of St. James's to that of. Persia, though Sir Harford Jones, Sir John Malcolm, and others, had previously been sent by the East India Company to that country. He was chairman of the Oriental Translation Society, to whose papers, and those of the Asiatic Society, he was a contributor. Sir WiUiam, who married the daughter of the late Lieutenant^Colonel Irving, (son of General Sir I'aulus E. Irving, governor-general of Canada,) left a numerous family, the eldest of whom. Sir William Gore Ouseley, entered the diplomatic service at a very eai'ly age. He was attached to the mission at Stockholm in 1817, and in 1825 was appointed paid attache at Wash- ington. While in that capital, he married the daughter of Mr. Van Ness, formerly governor of the state of Vermont, and subsequently the United States envoy at Madrid. He was next appointed acting secretary of legation at Brussels during Sir R. Adair's special embassy, and subsequently at Rio Janeiro, at wliich court he represented our government for several years as charge d'affaires. In 1844 Sir WUliam was named minister plenipotentiary at Buenos Ayi-es, and in 1845 special minister to the states of La Plata. In tardy acknowledgment of his important diplomatic services in South America, he received the Order of the Bath in 1852. He is the author of ' Remarks on the Slave Trade,' ' South American Sketches,' and several political pamphlets. We cannot forbear quoting a few lines from a critique on his ' Remarks on the Statistics and Political Institutions of the United States,' in the 'Quarterly Review' for December, 1832, which, although op- posed to the views taken in that periodical of the United States and their in- stitutions, had the fairness to say, — ' We have no desire to be severely critical on the coup d'essai of a young author — one, we believe, of a family in which diplomatic ability may be called an hereditary possession.' Some facts in con- nection with Sir WiUiam's memorable mission to the River Plate will be found a few pages farther on, as also in the notice of Rosas, whose enmity our mini- ster had the honour of provoking'Su an eminent degi'ee, by firmly protecting the persons and interests of his countrymen, and acting up to the spirit of his instructions. How deservedly he did so will be seen when we come to speak of one, at least, of those transactions of which the guilt has been incontestibly fixed upon the ex-Dictator within the last few months, but for accusing him of which at the time, our unsuspecting innocents at home deemed the British representative very culpable indeed, or, at least, very troublesome. Doubt- less, so he was, as compared with certain of his predecessors and successors in the same post, who quietly winked at the atrocities of the despot without ap- pealing to England against their continuance. Q 2 CHAPTER XL MONTE VIDEO. Biograpliical memoranda on the late British minister to the Plate. — Fii-st impressions of the Uruguayan capital unfavourable. — The New Custom House. — An instance of enterprise without prudence. — Commercial advan- tages of Monte Video. — Prosperity obtained at the expense of Buenos .Ayres. — Revisal of the Buenos Ayrean tariff. — Alluvial deposits of the Rio Plata. — Gas from mares' grease. — Traces of a siege. — Unprofitable plouglxing by Oribe's projectiles. — Condition of the streets. — The Horses of La Plata, and the Lasso. — Commerce of London with Monte Video and Buenos Ayi-es. — Mules for the Australian Gold Diggings. — ^Diminution of the Customs. — ^Bitter fruits of British and French intervention. — Sir WiUiam Gore Ouseley and the British Loan. — The Market-place. — Italian boatmen. — Encouragement given to foreigners.— Aspect of the environs. — The English burial ground. — The latest revolution. — Sketch of the History of Monte Video. — Senhor Castellanos. — Immigration from Europe. — Abolition of slavery in Uruguay. — Formation of agricultural colonies. — Diplomatic and consular memoranda. The impression on landing here is unfavourable, or at least, was so when I visited it, though such is the rapidity of change in South American regions, that, I believe, matters have put on a very much unproved aspect within the short period that has since elapsed. At that time, at all events, the place was very dirty, from rainy weather ; iU-paved streets ; great confusion with carts and horses ; all kinds of queer-looking beings about ; and a medley of nations, remarkable even in this focus of motley emigration. Things looked in a rough, unfinished state, such as you would hardly expect to find in the second important city of the La Plata ; and the reality contrasted sadly with the gay houses, their fantastic turrets and look-outs, which present such a picturesque appearance from the sea. The poverty the place displays is too fully accounted for bv the many years of siege, blockade, civil war, and disaster it has gone through, rendering it almost miraculous that so much should still exist in the shape of a city. You land at the ponte, or custom-house wharf, built out a short distance into the bay, 230 MONTE VIDEO. whilst the custom-house itself is in a street some little distance off. On the right, near the entrance of the harbour, is the new custom-house, an immense pile, which, when finished, must prove a great convenience to commerce, so long as the latter is made to go through the ordeal of fiscal duties, which here comprise nearly the entire revenue of the state. Close to the new custom-house is a hght-looking jetty, made chiefly of iron, with a good landing-place, and rails running along the wharf to bonded warehouses on shore. This wharf or pier was the work of an enter- prising Englishman, who had more public spirit than prudence, and was unsuccessful in his views, owing partly to there not being sufiicient water to enable vessels to come alongside the structure. Note to the Illustration. — ^Pursuiug the plan adopted in several of the preceding chapters, we here follow, in great part, from the soiu'ce di'awn upon in the former instances, the description given of Monte Video, by the same hand to which we are indebted for the illustration. Monte Video, situate in latitude 35 degrees S., longitude 56 degrees W., is the capital of the ' Banda Oriental ' (eastern shore or banks), or, as it is more fonnally designated, the ' Republic of the Uruguay ;' it is on the left bank of the River Plate, but, in part, is a seaport, the river being here above 120 miles across, although this capital is about 100 miles from the ocean. Yet even near Monte Video, after the prevalence of certain winds, the water is not too salt for drinking, in case of necessity ; indeed, when off the port, were it not for this freshness, the stranger could hardly credit he is not still at sea, instead of in a river, so imm pusp is it. Monte Video is most advantageously placed for commercial purposes. It is not enough to say that Buenos Ayres is the capital of the Argentine Provinces, and Monte Video that of the Banda Oriental — the extent of territory of which latter is small in comparison with the former — ^for these two places are not only the chief ports of entry through which, says Parish, the trade of these countries is carried on with foreign nations, but it will be found that at whichever of them the largest amount of foreign goods is landed, they are for the most part destined for the consumption of the people of the countries watered by the Rio de la Plata and its tributaries. The amount of foreign goods — so greatly out of proportion to its population — which, a few years back, was landed at Monte Video, is chiefly to be ascribed to the blockade of Buenos Ayres, which temporarily diverted the trade from its ordinary course. Whenever Buenos Ayres has the misfortune to be so attacked, the advantageous situation of Monte Video, as a central port, will always give it importance as an entrepot for goods destined for tlie provinces in the interior. This was the case in a remarkable degree during the late beleaguerment of Buenos Ayros, by Urquiza, untO tlie admiral of bis fleet, the Xorth American adven- MONTE VIDEO. 231 The city of Monte Video is erected on a kind of promontory, run- ning out into the sea, which washes one side, and the bay the other. Like most Spanish towns in South America, it is built in turer Coe, went over to the authorities of the City. During the whole of tliis time, Monte Video, being the only open port, prospered immensely in tlie amount of shipping entering it. There is no doubt, also, that its situation offers facilities for the supply at , all times by indirect means of the adjoining provinces of Brazil and of the Argentine Confederation, of which the Monte Videans will probably avail themselves, to the detriment of their neighbours' interests, unless, in self-defence, the latter so regulate their customs duties as to countervail all temptations to avoid them. Now this the Buenos Ayreans are wisely doing ; for before the close of the past year (1853) they effected an important modification in their tariff, which, coupled with the opening of the great internal streams, is sure to be productive of infinite advantage.* The harbour at Monte Video, except during certain winds and violent gales, is good, and the river basin well sheltered. But the vast body of fresh water of the River Plate brings with it, especially after floods, immense quantities of earth, sand, &c., forming continual deposits, gradually filling up this and other harbours in La Plata, and diminishing the depth of water in many places. For mstance, in the harbour of Monte Video — the best in the river — formerly large vessels of war, then called frigates (during the Spanish colonial govern- ment), used to lie quite close to the wharves in the inner part of the harbour, where none but merchant vessels, and those not of the largest size, now find sufficient depth. This gTadual accumulation of alluvial deposit might easily be prevented in the harbour by the use of excavating and dredging machines. They were, in fact, successfully tried some years ago, but the invasion of the country and the late siege of its capital, which lasted above nine years, forced the govermnent to employ all its resources in self-defence, and this, like many other useful measures, was suspended, but will be again resumed speedily, as also many other essential improvements prosecuted with vigour, now that the prospects of peace are assured, from the determination of the whole bulk of the population to abstain from siding with any of the disturbers of tranquillity. Ijighthouses have been erected at the entrance of the river ; its most dan- * Gold (coined or in bullion,) is admitted duty free ; wi-ouglit gold and silver at an ad valorem duty of 5 per cent. ; wools and furs, 10 per cent. ; raw and sewing silk, 12 pci- cent. ; woollen, flax, cotton, hardware, and paper manufactures, 15 per cent. ; clothes, boots and shoes, saddlery, sugar, coffee, tobacco, tea, olive oil, and generally all edibles, 20 per cent. ; spirituous liquors, 26 per cent. ;. wheat and Indian corn, small fixed duti&s. By chapter 2nd, relating to maritime exports, horse skins are charged with a duty of one dollar each ; sheep skins, three dollars a dozen ; other skins 4 per cent, on their market- able value ; salt tongues four reals a dozen ; tallow 12 reals an aiToba ; hair and wool, two doUiU's an aiTOba ; horns, 4 per cent, on their value. All other products of tlie province of Buenos Ayres, and in general all the fruits and production of the Argentine provinces, duty fi'ee. The introduction landwards of foreign merchandise is proliibifed. The tariff is subject to annual revision. 232 MONTE VIDEO. squares, with parallel streets, the houses all shapes and sizes, with square courts, from which you enter the different suites of rooms, many very handsomely arranged and furnished, the area of the court being adorned with plants and flowers. Since the siege was raised, parts of the old fortifications have been pulled down, and new streets are in process of building, as also a new theatre ; so that with a continuance of peace, Monte Video would soon assume more importance, and many of its civic defects be remedied. Some spirited individuals have got up a gas company, and the town is now excellently lighted from a local commodity called mares' grease, and certainly a clearer or better light I never saw anywhere. Country houses are also springing up since the deso- lation in which the outskirts were left by the nine years' siege at the hands of Rosas and his creatures, of which it still bears the traces in all directions, particularly at that memorable point between the city and General Oribe's camp at Cerrito, where every house was riddled or destroyed with cannon-shot, and the very ground ploughed up by the same unproductive metal. In a large square, at the extremity of the town, stands the cathedral, a huge unfinished building, which towers above every- thing else, and is emblematic of the old Spanish taste in churches. This square will be an acquisition when finished and put in order, planted with trees, &c., towards which there is already some movement ; but the majority of the streets are scarcely passable in a conveyance, many being without any pavement at all, a few rough stones being here and there visible ; the rest is a compound of mud and filth, and with holes that would astonish any well- educated European animal, however profound his gravity or elon- gated his ears, but apparently quite natural to the horses and gerous parts are buoyed, and licensed pilots ply off its mouth -to take vessels either into the harbour of Monte Video, or up to Buenos Ayi-es. 'With their help, and the excellent charts and sailing directions that have been published, the navigation, which would otherwise be difficult, on account of sand-banks, is made tolerably safe for the vast number of merchant vessels which are con- tinually on their passage up and down the river. MONTE \-IDEO. 233 mules of this country, and I'egarded by tlioni with an uxoniplafy equanimity which bipods of pliilosophic [)retensi(jns in vain endea- vour to emulate. The difference of race between the inhabitants of Brazil and the River Plate is very remarkable, indicating at once the great change in climate, and those other physiological influences that conti-ibute to determine variety of chai'actcr among people. At the same time it must be obsci'ved that South America furnishes many almost irreconcilable anomalies of this kind ; for instance, a feeble and peaceful people dwelt on the cold mountains of Peru ; a hardy and warlike race wandei'ed under the burning sun of Brazil. The Uruguayans partake largely of the attributes of the latter. The natives are generally athletic-looking men, mounted on horses that appear part and parcel of themselves ; seemingly ceutaur-like, • demi-encorpsed with the brave beast ; ' and di'essed in a fashion savouring strongly of the Turk — minus the turban. And tall, and strong, and swift of foot are they, Beyond the dwarfing city's pale abortions. The Plata is indeed the land of the horse, par excellence, as will be inferred from the fact of this, the first town of importance on its banks, being lighted with mares'-grease gas. The animals are, generally speaking, described by connoisseurs as not exactly equalling the splendid Spanish parent stock tliey arc descended from, and the first appearance of wdiich in the country wdiere EL LAZO — TilKOWI.NG TH]-; I.ASSO. 2:U MONTE VIDt:0. they are now counted by millions, and are jiart almost of the very being of the natives, was regarded with an a\ve and astonishment that well nigh paralysed resistance to the invader. Those that swarm along the plains are rather more useful than handsome ; heads not clumsy, though not elegantly shajied ; body tolerably round, thougli croup often low ; legs, though light, firm and well ]ilaced. They are caught with the lasso, in the use of which, as likewise of course in the bolas, the Uruguayan Guacho is fully eipial, aud is deemed by many even superior, if possible, to his brother of the Buenos Ayrean pampas, with which the European idea of the exercise (if these captivating implements is chietiy associated ; for tlio Banda Oriental being much intersected with streams, and trees, and hills, a greater degree of address is per- Iiaps reipiired in luanaging a herd of wild horses or oxen than in the vast table-lauil stretching, for hundreds upon hundreds of miles, ill au almost unvaried Hat, on the opjiositc liank of the river. 13ut if the Plate be the land of horses, doubly is it the land of ci.iws : the whole region may be said to be oue vast horn- aud-hoof fair ; ami the jircdominaut bovine element in the air, the stieet, the field, pr<.)claims itself ovei'poweriiigly to every sense. L.\ V..\C.\ i;STI!.V\-IAn.\— THE .vnt.w filW. This, of coiu-so, strikes one more forcibly, liecause of its novelty, on landing at iloiite Video, than subse(|nentlv :it Buenos Avres, aud in the interior; foi- it is extraordinary liow ipiicklv one loses his fastiiliousness, and looks witli indift'ei-ence upon sights, and iidjalo od(jurs. thai aiipear iusutt'er.tbly i'r\olting at the outset of 2.'3(I MONTE VIDEO. one's noviciate. The trade carried on by the Uruguayans in the flesh, and hides, and tallow, of cattle, and the skins of horses, is very great,* considering the extent of territory and population, and bearing in mind the many impediments of which we have * Tlie Trade of London with the River Plate has materially increased during the last few years, and is very different now from what it was twenty years ago. Tlien vessels used to be a long time on the berth, or were partly loaded with manufactured goods, and afterwards filled up with coals, or called at the Cape de Verds to load salt, as the remainder of their cargo ; whereas, now they are despatched with full cargoes of manufactured goods every two or three weeks. This marked improvement arises partly from the comparative tranquillity of the River Plate provinces, and the greater wants of the people, and partly from the more expeditious and commercial mode of carriage in this country, by means of which considerable parcels of goods from the manufac- turing districts are now forwarded to London for shipment by the vessels regularly despatched by Messrs. Martin and Scott, the London and River Plate ship-brokers, who aiFord merchants every facility in shipping by then' vessels, the expenses of goods thus forwarded never exceeding and, in many cases, being very considerably less, by this than by any other route whatever. The number of vessels despatched from London within the last four yeai-s has been about 60, averaging 15 ships, aggregating 2,745 tons' register, or 4,423 tons of actual storeage, shipped annually. Of this number, 37 were British and 23 foreign, chiefly of the Danish flag ; 25 of these vessels were sent to Buenos Ayres direct, 12 to Monte Video direct, and 23 to Monte Video and Buenos Ayi-es, the restrictions foi-merly existhig between Monte Video and Buenos Ayres, so that no vessel touching at the one port could dis- charge at the other, having been abolished since the deposition of Rosas. The goods shipped from London are coals, when required for ballast, iron, zinc, and other metals, paint, oil, anchors and chains, hardware, hoUow ware, tools and agricultural implements, earthenware, rope, beer, &c. There are also consi- derable shipments of linen, cotton, and woollen goods, hosiery, haberdashery, together with a considerable quantity of miUinery, silks, and fancy goods, wines, spirits, furniture, toys, and pianos. Of these goods, anchors and chams, tools and agricultural implements, earthenware, and cotton goods are, for the most part, sent up specially from the inland manufacturing districts for shij)- meut. The produce of the River Plate arriving in London is very considerable, and consists of salted and Arj ox and cow-hides, horse-hides, tallow, mares' grease, bone-ash, animal manure, wool, hair, horns, and bones. There is also, occasionally, a small quantity of Paraguay tobacco, ostrich and vulture feathers, nutria, chinchUla, and other skins. These remarks apply in an increased degree to Liverpool, between which port and the Plate the commer- cial intercourse is infinitely greater than between London and the Plate, the imports and exports being necessarily much the same as to quality. The trade between Liverpool and the ports of Buenos Ayres and Monte Video for 1853 collectively amomited to 64 vessels, consisting of 11,850' tons. MONTE VIDEO. 237 already spoken, and to wfiicli we shall have fni-tlier to advert presently. Latterly, a profitable trade is springing np in tlie article of mules for Australia ; those animals being reared in great perfection in the fine pastures of the Banda Oriental, and being of infinite use in the gold fields, owing to their hardy constitution, strength, and docility. Passengers from Australia, caUing at Monte Video, declare the neighbourhood greatly to resemble the vicinage of Melbourne ; and there is little doubt that judicious explorations would reveal the presence of large quantities of gold, some having already been found. That the whole state abounds in metalliferous riches is the conviction of many competent judges ; and, probably, in no part of the civilised world might small mining capitals be invested with greater certainty of success, or small 'captains' commence operations on their own account with stronger assurance of reward, especially as the climate, a most important consideration, admits of Englishmen pursuing their labours without the enervation experienced from the greater heat and drying winds that prevail on the opposite side of the river. To judge from the number of vessels and small craft laying in the harbour, you would conclude a large trade was carried on ; but such is not exactly the case, although matters are fast improving ; the custom-house revenue, from being down to 700,000 dollars, is now doubled, or 1,400,000 dollars, against 3^ millions of dollars which it returned in 1842, previous to the siege. The work of de- struction was industriously pursued during that disastrous period, and for hundreds of miles the Banda Oriental was not only shorn of its cattle but of its population. The land, in fact, was rendered a desert waste, and made only subservient to the wants of Oribe's army. Future annalists will hardly believe it possible that the his- tory of a seeond'Troy could be illustrated in the duration of the ag- gression it was subjected to, under the protective cannon of the two most powerful nations of Europe, France and England ; but such, alas ! was the fact ; and the recent melancholy position of Monte Video is the fruit of an intervention that was not rendered effec tive, as it might have been, if vigorously followed up in conformity 238 MONTE VIDEO. with tlie judicious advice of the resident English minister during a great part of the troubles, and whose wise suggestions are now reverted to with regretful but admiring respect, by all dispassion- ate men in Europe or America who have read the then require- ments of the Plate by the light of"subsequent experience.* Indeed, that this feeling has at length prevailed is shown by acts, more of * Sir 'WiUiam Gore Ouseley wa^ the British Minister here referred to. It is alike foreign to the purjioses of this volume, and to the wishes of the writer, to express any opinion on the policy pursued by England, in the affairs of the Plate, at the period mentioned : but he deems it the merest justice to the reputation of the diplomatist just named for sagaciously judging of ' coming events ' by the ' shadows cast before,' to record a fact familiar to every one who has sojourned, for ever so brief a period, in the River Plate, viz., that the inhabitants of all classes, without exception, native or foreign, are as unani- mous now in their approving remembrance of his conduct, as they were at the time it elicited their spontaneous applause in an enduring and complimentary form. Not less than 800 native Monte Videans, embracing the elite of the whole community* not actually in the interest of the enemv, tendered * Senor. Los infrascriptos Ciiidadanosnaturales de la Republiea Oriental del Uruguav sienten la necesidad de manifestar a Y. E^ el altisimo apreeio en que tienen la lealtad de su caracter, y los muclio.s y relevantes servicios que V. E. en el desempeno de las fLuicio- nes que le habia confiado el Gobiemo de S. il. su Augusta Suberana, lia prestado a la causa de la Independencia de nuestra Patria. La guerra que devasta el suelo en que hemos nacido es, en todo rigor, de parte de los Orientales, una lucba de defeusa legitima y de Independencia — lucba q>ie no hemos provocado, y en cuyo termlno no buscamos ni apetecemos mas que la conservacion de la situacion en que nos coloco el pacto celebrado en 1828 entre el Imperio del Brazil y la Republiea ^Vj-gentina — que nos esta reconocida per todas las >;acione3, y virtual, pero solenmeraeute garantida per la Inglaterra y la Francia. Ciertos de la eticacia de e>ta garantia y del interes politico y comercial que tienen esas dos grandes potencias en el mantenimiento de la Naeionalidad Oriental, con todas sus consecuencias, y en que no que — de absorvida por un Poder anti-social y repulsive de toda idea civilizadora, los Orientales procuraron su apoyo y una alianza justa y decorosa. El prjncipio en que csta alianza se basaba era honroso, y los fines, a mas de honrosos civilizadore.s y fecmidos en resultados beneflcos, para la paz externa de estas regiones, y para la paz interior de nuestro pais que deseamos, con toda la fuerza de que somos capaces, teniondo por mira unica, que reconciliada la familia Oriental a que per- tenecemos, fuera de toda coaccion e influencia estrana, puedii elegir en libcrtad v en la forma consagrada en sus leyes, nn Gobierno suyo, que la rija con suecion a la Constitu- cion y a los intereses Orientales. Los dos Agentes encargados en 1845 por la Inn-lateiTa y la Francia de dar apoyo a la naeionalidad Oriental volviendo la paz a nucstros hogares, y los Senores Almirantes Inglefield y Laine, que ban tenido el mando de las fuerzas in- terventoras, ban desempenado mision tan noble del modo mas cordial, mas conforme al pensamiento esplieitamente dcclarado por sus Gobiemos al pensamiento y al deseo del nuestro, y de todos los buenos Orientales; por lo que reconocemos deberles sincera y pro- funda gratitud. Permitanos A'.E. consagi-ar en esta carta, respecto de su persona, la espresion de ese sentimiento; que agvegucmns a ella la de los votos que bacemos por sus MOXTE VIDEO. 239 justice than of favour, on the part of succeeding governments that, though tardy, are not the less honourable to those concerned. It will require many years of peaceful industry to restore this district to what it was in 1842, rich as the soil undoubtedly is, and reproduce tive as its affluence in cattle may be. In the meantime, a good their grateful thanks for his efforts to preserve the national independence — efforts which, had they not been thwarted in quarters where the utmost assist- ance should have been accorded, would have secured that object, while avoid- ing years of war and bloodshed, and saving some millions of property lost to the commerce of the world by a continuance of the disturbances by Rosas. His exertions for the promotion of commerce formed the most marked item prosperidades — y le pidamos conserve siempre la memoria de nuestra Patria y la de los Ciudadanos que interpretes, sin dadaen, este acto, de la sociedad en que viven — teneraos el honor de ofrecer a V.E. el homenage del respeto, de la adhesion y de la amistad que le prof^amos y con que somos. De V.E. affmos Servidores. [translation] Sir, — Tfie undersigned native citizens of the Oriental Republic of Uruguay feel the necessity of manifesting to your Excellency the veiy great esteem in which they hold the loyalty of your character, and the mcmy high services that your Excellency, in the discharge of the functions confided to you by the Government of Her Majesty, your august Sorereign, has lent to the cause of the independence of our country: The war tvhich desolates our native soil is strictly, on the part of the Orientals, a struggle of legitimate defence and of independence — a stiniggle which loe have not provolced, and in the result of which we neither seek nor desire inore titan the presentation of the ptosition in which we were placed by the compact celebrated in 1828, between the Empire of Brazil and the Argentine Republic — a position recognized by all nations, and virtually, but solemnly, guaranteed by England and France. Certain of the efficacy of this guarantee, and of the political and commercial in- terest of these two great Powers in the maintenance of the Oriental Nationality, with all its consequences, and in its not being crushed by an anti-social power, repelling every idea of civilization, the Orientals sought their aid, a/nd a just and proper alliance. The princi- ple on which this alliance was based loas honourable, a/nd its objects, besides being honour- able, were civilizing and fertile in beneficial results for the external peace of these regions, and for the internal peace of our count-ry, which we desire with all the strength we possess, having for sole object, that the Oriental family to which we belong being reconciled, it may, without foreign coercion or influence, elect, freely, cmd in the mode consecrated by its laws, its own government, which shall rule it in confoi'-mity with the constitution a/nd the Oriental interests. The two agents charged in 1845, by England a/nd France, to give aid to the Oriental nationality and restore peace to our heart/is, and the Admirals Englefield and LainS, who had command of the intervening forces, have discharged so noble a mission in the manner most cordial, most in conformity with the intentions explicitly declared by their governments, a/nd loith the thoughts and desire of ours, and of all good Orientals ; for which we acknowledge that we owe them sincere am-dprofound gratitude. We beg your Ks-. cellen^y will permit us to record in this letter, as regoj-ds yourself personally, the expression of this sentimsnt ; let us add that of the wishes we entertain for your prosperity, and we beg you always to preserve a recollection of ow country a/nd that of those citizens, who^ faithful interpreters of the feelings oj the country in which they live, have thehonour of offer- vrtg to your Excellency the homage of the respect, adhesion and friendship which loe possess, cmd toith which we are, — your Excellency'' s most faithful servants, ifc, ^c. 240 JIONTE VIDEO. deal of produce is brought hither from the neighbouring ports and down the rivers, in small craft, which occupy a long time on of euloghim in the address from the French* inhabitants, and is particularly deserving- of being dwelt upon, now that the mercantile course of action he recommended so strenuously, as to the opening of the rivers, has been ratified in respect to Paraguay, whither he sent our recent Plenipotentiary there no less than eight years ago, as we shall see when we come to speak of that country. Of the sense entertained of his merits by the English at Monte Video, their addre=is,f subjoined below, is sufficiently explanatory ; but something still more significant is the circumstance that, though Sir William was a party to the unfortunate loan by British capitalists, and though it has been hitherto found impossible to obtain payment thereof, principal or interest, in any form, no word of censure is vented against him ; for it is felt that the loan was a wise and prudent measure at the time, and that had the spirit in which it was entered into on both sides been carried out in the sense then understood, * Monsieiu- le Ministre Plenipotentiau'e. Les soussign^s, residants Frangais a Monte- video, ont appris avec une sincere affliction voire prochain depart pour rAngleten-e. Les preuves r^it^rees de votre bienveillaiicc pour nous, le parfait accord qui a toujours r^gne entre vous et Monsieur le Baron Deffaudis, voire g^n^rosit^ envers nos compa- triotes mallieureux, la noblesse de voire caraciere, voire consianie solliciiude £l d^- fendre los ini^rets g^n^raux du commerce, peuveni vous avoir aitir^ I'animosit^ des ennemis de I'iniervention et de Thumaniie ; mais ils vous oni acquis la reconnaissance des populations clvilist^es des deux rives de la Plate. Daignez done, Monsieur le Mi- nistre Pldnipoieniiaire, accepter le tribut de nos regrets les plus sinceres ; croire que votre souvenir nous sera ioujours cher, et agr^er I'hommage des sentiments respeciueux avec lesqnels nous avons I'lionneur d'etre, Monsieiur le Ministre Pl^nipoieniiaii-e, vos irea- obeissants serviteurs. f Address of the British residents and merchants to the British minister to the states of La Plata. — We, the undersigned, British merchants and residents of Monte Video, having learned with sorrow, that your Excellency is on the eve of retiring from the posi- tion you have held amongst us, with so much credit to yourself and benefit to our coun- try, beg leave to express oiu: sense of admiration at the enlightened and impartial conduct, ju.st views, and penetrating judgment which have distinguished you throughout your arduous career, during the intervention of the British and French governments in the River Plate. We gladly bear witness to the fiimness, justice, and hmnanity, which char- acterized youv proceedings, amidst the numerous difficidtics and afflicting scenes which liave often sm-rounded you ; and we have beheld with unmixed satisfaction the constant harmony that has prevailed between your Excellency and your respected colleague, Baron Deffaudis, which as Avell as yom- individual efforts, has so greatly promoted con- cord and mianimity among all classes of both nations, and foreigners, in Monte Video. Impressed with a deep sense of obligation for your invariable attention to the interests of British subjects, and for your watchful care over tlieir persons and propertv, whenever endangered, and also for the kindness and urbanity which have marked your personal in- tercourse with us, we cannot permit your Excellency to leave these shores without receiv- ing our heartfelt tlianks and grateful acknowledgments. With a just appreciation of tlie merits of your Excellency in your official capacity, and an affectionate regard for your pi-ivate character, we beg you will accept our sincere wishes for the future health and happiness of yourself and family. Wc haye the honour to be, itc. (Signed bv 85 Briti.sh residents.) MONTE VIDEO. 241 the voyage ; and some idea may be formed of the number of these conveyances, -when I mention having seen one as high as JSFo. 1,200 at Buenos Ayres, where they are all numbered, and, it is to be as it readily might have heen, but for shortsighteduess at home, the lenders would have heen paid with at least as much regularity as the French government, who continued their assistance long after England had backed out of the engagement, to the same effect. And, undoubtedly, the French government have every right to be paid; for, without their continuous aid Monte Video must have fallen, and Rosas would at this moment have been Dictator of the whole Argentine Confederation, of which the Uruguay, and probably Paraguay also, would have been component parts. It is further felt that even after the untoward turn affairs have taken, as regards the original engagement about the loan, the interest might readily be continued to be paid, were the customs' receipts administered in the judicious mode initiated when Sir William obtained the money for the government, viz., by a com- mittee, composed chiefly of foreign merchants, who collected the dues with so small an expense that there was always a considerable surplus ; whereas in native hands the aggregate received barely paid the cost of collection. It is gratifying to find, even at the twelth hour, years after misrepresentations to the contrary had effected their momentary object in causing the recall of Sir William from an arena where the cajolery and the buUying of Rosas were rendered aUke abortive by the tact and vigour of the British Minister, that these truths are now recognized, not merely by the Anglo South American public, but by the English authorities at home, whose esprit de corps renders them ever reluctant to admit that an injustice can be committed against a servant of the Crown, and still more reluctant to make any reparation for it.* On the accession of the Derby administration, one of the first acts of the Foreign Minister, Lord Malmesbury, who, in common with the Imperial ruler of France, had devoted a great deal of consideration to questions of South American commercial policy, was to despatch Sir C. Hotham on a mission for * This, however, is more apparent than real. Though the Earl of Derhy, speaking on the Address to the Throne, the opening night of the present session, pleasantly twitted Ministers with their omission in the Royal Speech of all allusion to Sir C, Hotham's Paraguayan mission, and with consequent ^indifference to its objects, it must not he in- ferred that the Aberdeen Cabinet is in the least degree insensible to the importance of securing such benefits to our commerce as the Malmesbury Treaty seeks to accomplish, though there may be some discrepancy of opinion as to the extent that treaty succeeded in such direction. Seven years ago, Lord Aberdeen, then foreign secretary in the Peel Administration, in his instructions to Sir WiUiam G. Ouseley, then minister at Buenos Ayres, for his guidance in the joint intervention by England and France between Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, said : — * The war in which the Argentine arms are at present engaged, is waged against a state, the independence of which England is virtually bound to uphold.* Lord Aberdeen instructed his minister, ' to open up the great arte- ries of the South- American continent to the free circulation of commerce, would be not only a vast benefit to the trade of Eui'ope, but a practical, and perhaps the best, security for the preservation of peace in South America,' B 242 MONTE VIBEO. presumed, at Monte Video likewise. It is hardly necessary to say that there is a strong rivalry between the two ports for this kind of trade, and also in numerous other respects ; but Monte Video the completion of the work in which that gallant officer had been preyiously engaged at the instance of Sir William ; and the noble lord, rightly feeling how much was due to the originator of the same design, obtained the Order of the Bath for the late mmister to the Plate, expressly on the ground of the services he had rendered to his country and to humanity during his mission there, and which are specially alluded to in the addresses presented to him, as quoted in the foregoing page. Though the present administration do not, or at least did not, appear to attach the same importance as their predecessors to the recent South American commercial treaties, it is understood that they have not failed to express their appreciation of the pioneer in the path of progress in that direction ; and that they have admitted that a very hasty, and consequently very erroneous, judgment had been passed on his political conduct in the Plate. Why that judgment should have been hasty, why it should have been formed on the representations of those whose policy and whose patron, (the Dictator,) have since been swept away, and are now only mentioned to be derided, is a secret which it would require the penetrative perseverance of Mr. Urquhart himself to detect. But it is, at least, satisfac- tory to know that the amende has been made as liberally as it is in the nature of the official genus to do these things; and that a gentleman in whose family the diplomatic faculty may be said to be hereditary,* and with whom we have reason to hope it will not terminate,f has been authoritatively pronounced to have proved himself worthy of his antecedents. It is, however, more immedi- ately in reference to his services to commerce that his name is introduced * So long ago as the reign of Elizabeth, Sir John Ouseley, of Courteen-hall, North- amptonshire, a distinguished military oiBcer, in obedience to the orders of the Earl of Essex, then commanding in Portugal, went ambassador to the Emperor of Morocco, and subsequently fell at the siege of Breda, in 1624. The uncle of Sir William and father of the present baronet (Rev. Sir F. Arthur Gore Ouseley, to whom the Duke of "Wellington, the Duke of York, and Marchioness of Salisbiiry, stood sponsors), was the celebrated ambassador to Persia, of which couutry he obtained the Order of the Lion and the Sun, and subsequently the Grand Cross of the Imperial Russian Order of St. Alexander Newski, when he was appointed plenipotentiary to St. Petersburgh. His brother. Sir WUliam, (father of the late minister to the Plate), accompanied him to Persia, was the well-known historian of that mission, as already stated, and author of many learned Oriental works, in recognition of whose merits he received the Order of Knighthood. t The eldest son of Sk William, Mr. W. Charles Ouseley, accompanied the expedition of the blockading squadron up the Parana river; and, inheriting his father's facultj- of pictorial delineation, as evmced in the ' South American Sketches,' contributed to that magnificent volume two subjects, taken at Corrientes, which will be found copied in the chapter devoted to that country ; but, owmg to haste on the part of our ai-tist, the copy affords an imperfect idea of the original. Mr. W. C. Ouseley likewise accompanied Sir C. Hotham, as attach^, during the recent mission to Paraguay, and returned with his Excellency in the autumn of 1853. MONTE VIDEO. 243 has immeasurably the advantage as a harbour, and it might be rendered as commodious as any in the world by a little energy and judicious outlay. It is much to be regretted that this peace- ful rivalry should not be the predominant incentive to mercantile action, instead of each country wasting its strength and energies in interminable political squabbles. But both have paid so bitterly for the indulgence of these internecine animosities, that they are at length beginning to learn charity and reciprocal indulgence of each other's foibles ; and there is a reasonable probability that this mutual comparative toleration is the precursor of joint stabi- lity of institutions, and of that solid and progressive prosperity of which each is so eminently capable. A most remarkable evidence of the growth of this better spirit was afforded on the occasion of some disturbances in the Banda Oriental, at the close of last year, when the authorities at Buenos Ayres actually offered to place their vessels of war at the disposal of the Uruguayan authorities, for the maintenance of peace and order. This the latter were fortunately able to preserve without extraneous aid ; the proffer of which, from such a quarter, augurs the advent of an era when peace as well as plenty shall take up its abiding place in these luxuriant regions, from which it seems to have fled from the hour the white man set foot upon the soil. But the good time, so ar- dently desiderated, is not yet exactly arrived ; for such is the fluc- tuating condition of things in these countries, that almost every alternate mail brings accounts that upset all one's previous calcur lations, and hardly is the ink dry with which we record our fehci- tations on the seeming solidity of peace, when tidings of civil broils once more open the door of incertitude as to the present, and the worst apprehensions as to the future. But Brazil is now the great peace-maker, and, as long as she is so, outrage at least is impossible. One of the old defences of Monte Video is a Spanish wall, of here ; for it is impossible to allude to the late South American treaties of '53 without feeling that Sir W. Gore Ouseley's labours of '46 in that cause place him in the same relation to what has been accomplished by Lord Malmesbury and Sir C. Hotham as the inquiries of the Import Duties' Committee placed Mr. Hume in respect to the Free-trade achievements of Messrs. Cobden and Bright. r2 244 MONTE VIDEO. which only a portion remains, with a Moorish-looking gateway, which has a very picturesque air about it, contrasting with the modern appearance of the houses near it. Through the gateway is visible a large quadrangular building, apparently used as a bar- rack in former times, but now appropriated to a much more useful purpose, that of a public market ; and early in the morning may be seen dozens of people going to and fro with their purchases for the day — meat, fish, and fine vegetables. The latter appear to be in profusion ; and some cauliflowers were far the largest I ever saw. Things of this sort are dear, owing to the limited cultivation, which is carried on chiefly by the Basque population, whilst the boatmen who ply for hire about the port are Italians to a man.* Some idea * The liberal spirit of this State encourages foreigners. Imitating the United States, it facilitates the acquirements of the privileges of native citizens by emigrants from foreign countries, and even surpasses, in this re- spect, the wise provisions of that system, so advantageous for a new and thinly-peopled country, and so successfully adopted by North America. Foreign merchants have brought their business and capital to Monte Video, while hard-working Basques, Germans, Irish, French, and Italians, (chiefly Genoese) have flocked to this city, and, in most instances, obtained the rights of denizens or citizens. Residence, marriage with a native, the acquisition of a certain amount of property, real or personal, are among the conditions con- fen-ing citizenship. This privilege may appear to be somewhat easily granted ; but it must be recollected that no ' Oriental ' citizen existed previous to 1828 ; consequently there has not been time for the development of any very jealous feeling of exclusive national rights, as possessed by one race only in the repubUo of the Uruguay. It is for these reasons that so many foreigners have flocked to the Banda Oriental, and settled in the interior as well as in the towns ; and hence the rapid increase of Monte Video in trade and population, which even the invasion and siege of its capital, so lately at an end, have not sufficed to re- duce to the level of then- former comparative insignificance. The whole of the Banda Oriental being freed from the invaders, and the independence of the republic being guaranteed by Brazil, commerce and agriculture are there- fore now reviving ; and it is to be hoped that the numerous resources of the country will be peaceably and usefully developed ; while the free navigation of the tributaries of the River Plate, now ensured, will be of the greatest im- portance to the trade of all nations, and produce incalculable benefits to the States through which those noble rivers flow. The exports, as before stated, comprise all of the staple commodities produced by the Argentine provinces, viz : hides, tallow, horns, horse-hair, jerked beef, wool, &c., to which, in all proba- bility, corn will be added in a few years, the soil of this State being for the most part admirably adapted to agricultural purposes. MONTE VIDEO. 245 may be formed of the scarcity of labourers, when the commonest cannot be got on board ship for less than 2 dollars each (eight shillings) per day, and this must be a great drawback to the pro- gress of the place ; otherwise, what may be seen of the soil, even close to the walls of Monte Video, proves that anything eould be grown there under proper cultivation. Hedges of immense aloes, cactus, clover, and other spontaneous vegetation, are everywhere visible ; whilst near the edge of the bay there is splendid granite rock, in any quantity, for building purposes and paving the streets. True, you see no trees about, as they were all levelled for fire- wood, &c. ; but that the soil close to the town can grow thousands of them, there cannot be the shadow of a doubt, and the territory of the Uruguay itself, in many parts, is famous for its timbered affluence. The citizens are now planting some trees, and with peace for a few years, the outskirts of Monte Video would present a very diiferent appearance indeed to what they do at present The walls of the English burial-ground were also levelled during the siege ; and there is now only a hedge of aloes, which does not hide even the tombstones. Owing to that and other circum- stances, there is some talk of the site being removed. Before our arrival, a revolution, attended with some bloodshed, had again broken out, and things appeared in a very unsettled state, finally coming to a head by a total upset of the then existing president, Giro, and his foreign minister, Berro, who took refuge in a French vessel of war.* A provisional government was soon formed, which * It is not within the scope of this publication to give anything like a history of the several places touched at, still less of a place whose late history, in par- ticular, has been so unprecedentedly troublous, even in these regions of disorder, as has that of the capital of the Uruguay. Still a few particulars are essential, and in matters of this sort no authority is preferable to that of Sir W. Parish. Monte Video was commenced in 1726, under the name of San Felipe, Puerto de Monte Video, by Zavala, governor of Buenos Ayres, who had been ordered by the government to make permanent settlements there and at Maldonado, for the more effectual maintenance of the rights of the Spanish crown, after dislodging the Portuguese from the vicinity of the former place, where they had established themselves. Some families were transported thither from the Canaries, and others removed there from Buenos Ayres, in order to secure the 246 MONTE VIDEOi certainly seemed to carry with it the sympathies of the people, who, it is to be hoped, will settle down again quietly — a con- summation to which everything that has happened, as far as is known in Europe, since our departure, would seem to be steadily tending. Hitherto, as is notorious to every one, the great curse of these countries is personal ambition ; for no man considers it neces- sary to consult the interests of his fellow-citizens beyond what will serve his own purpose. Such a principle as that of true patriotism, or dispensing legislation for the good of the many, was a mere chimera, and no wonder the masses should at length kick against a system by which they are always sufferers. Fortunately, however, a most marked change in this respect privileges oflfered to the new settlers. The viceroy sent large sums of money from Potosi to carry on the works ; and the walls in due time assumed, with the labour of the Guavian Indians, the appearance of an important fortifica- tion. In 1808, when the intelligence of the abdication of the king, and the declaration of war against France, was received at Buenos Ayres, EUo, the Governor of Monte Video, was the first to disobey the orders of Don Santiago Liniei'3, the viceroy at the time ; and convoking the inhabitants, established an independent junta of the Monte Videans, after the example of those set up in the Peninsula. They subsequently took their share in the war of indepen- dence ; and their deputies, with those of aU the other provinces of the Rio de la Plata, assembled in congress at Tucuman, solemnly declared their separa- tion from Spain, and their determination to constitute a free and independent State, on the 19th of July, 1816. During the struggle with the mother country, one common object, paramount to all other considerations, the com- plete establishment of their political independence, bound together the widely spread provinces of the old viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres ; but the very circum- stances of that struggle, and the vicissitudes of the war, which often for long periods cut off then- communications with their old metropolis and with each other, obliging them to provide separately for their new temporary government and security, gave rise, especially in those at a distance, to habits of indepen- dence, which, as they acquired strength, loosened, more or less, the ties which bound them to Buenos Ayres, and in some cases produced an entu-e separation Amongst others, the Banda Oriental was withdrawn from the authority of the capital by the notorious Artigas, whose anarchical proceedings, fraught with the most fatal consequences to the peace of the republic, afforded a plausible pretext for the occupation of Monte Video by their Portuguese neighbours the cause, eventually, of a long and ruinous war between the republic and Brazil, which was only terminated by British mediation, and by the territory in question being erected into a new and independent State, in 1828. Some further particulars, respecting both its previous and subsequent liistory, will be MONTE VIDEO. 247 has recently occurred. The love of anarchic excitement has well nigh subsided, even amongst the most volatile and hitherto inflam- mable portion of the population ; while the sentiment conveyed in the Shakspearean malison, 'A plague on both your houses,' is that uppermost in the mouths of the really intelligent and respect- able classes of every way of thinking, when appealed to by con- tending chiefs, panting for public embroilment for the sake of personal aggrandisement. A most striking, and, it is to be hoped, conclusive, evidence of this was furnished in the case of the recent ejection of the President Giro, or, rather, his own renunciation of office and attempted exercise of its functions afterwards ; for, rather than join any standard, at least any that involved the dis- ruption of the public peace, certain classes, who had hitherto been at the beck of every incendiary in turn, actually fled into the country and hid themselves, for fear of being compelled to partici- pate in scenes they had previously so often rejoiced to riot in. The adherents of the Giro government have since made an attempt to seize upon the power they have so capriciously aban- doned, and succeeded in producing some confusion for a while, especially at Colonia, whence the authorities had to fly in a whale-boat to Buenos Ayres ; but the provisional executive, strong in the pacific disposition of the whole people, as already adverted found under the head of Buenos Ayres. Besides Monte Video, the chief towns are Colonia (nearly opposite Buenos Ayres) and Maldonado ; together with sixteen smaller towns, several hamlets, and numerous estancias or farms, and ranchos or cottages ; but the whole population of the republic, which is divided into nine departments, and covers a fertile area of about 200,000 square miles suited for almost every purpose required by man, does not exceed probably one half the population of Liverpool. Still it is growing, and will continue to grow, for, during the few years of peace, since its independence, the population has increased, that of the capital from about 12,000 to nearly 50,000. The city pro- per, formerly not extending beyond the citadel (now converted into a market- place), rapidly spread, and handsome buildings and streets were constructed, extending as far as the recent inner (formerly the outer) lines of the fortifica- tion, enlarging the area to several times its previous size. Beyond are villas and ' saladeros ' (establishments for slaughtering cattle and preparing hides and tallow), while pretty and sometimes spacious suburban dwellings surrounded by well-cultivated gardens, extend to a considerable distance beyond the outer w^lls. 248 MONTE VIDEO. to, quickly succeeded in restoring order, and maintained it with firmness and temper, till Brazil has insured enduring peace. In speaking of the overthrow or dissolution of the recent govern- ment of President Giro, it may be necessary to state, in justice to a deserving and distinguished public servant. Sen. Don F. Cas- tellanos, that he had no hand whatever in the circumstances which led to that occurrence, having many months before resigned the office of Secretary for Foreign Affairs, the duties of which he dis- charged with exemplary assiduity, ability, and success, under the exceedingly difficult obligations imposed upon the State of the Uruguay, subsequent to the siege being suddenly raised by the defeat and flight of Rosas. M. Castellanos, whose personal ac- quaintance I had the honour of making, is a gentleman of Euro- pean as well as American repute, being well versed in the consti- tutional laws of the New World, and familiar with the institutions and literature of the old, speaking French and EngUsh with faci- hty and correctness. During his administration everything possi- ble was done to supply that great desideratum of the Uruguay and of all the South American states — ^immigration from Europe. To this end Senr. Castellanos, shortly after he accepted office, addressed a despatch to the Consul-General for the Republic of the Uruguay in London, commanding him to make known to all whom it might concern, that the whole of the fertile territory of the Banda Oriental was in a condition of perfect tranquilhty, in which it has virtually since remained, notwithstanding the sudden cessation since of the government of which he was at the time the Foreign Minister. He stated that the authorities were anxious to receive any number of peaceable, well-disposed European emi- grants, to whose industry they were prepared to guarantee all the protection extended to native citizens, together with pecuhar exemptions because of their introduction of skill and capital. Com- plete toleration in all matters of religious observance was insured ; and, in a word, every inducement held out to the redundant popu- lation of the Old World to avail itself of the fruitful soil and genial climate of a constitutionally governed country, admirably adapted MONTE VIDEO. 249 in every respect to Europeans of the Saxon and German stock, the chmate being temperate and healthy in an eminent degree, and its numerous rivers, extensive sea-coast, and noble harbours, affording every facility for commerce. In the present condition of our Russian trade in tallow, for whose production this region has unlimited capabilities, as it has for another staple — cotton — whose supply is by no means encouragingly ' looming in the future,' the announcement here made is likely to have the effect of directing towards the La Plata a considerable stream of emigration, which circumstances of various kinds — ^moral, sanative, and social — may repel from quarters more alluring to the inconsiderate milhons. Indeed, we understand that a formidable ' exodus,' as the phrase is, may be looked for shortly from the Rhenish provinces on the Swiss border, to the Banda Oriental ; and that an organization on a very large scale is being matured for colonizing with Germans several hundred thousand acres of the beautiful undulating tract on the borders of the Rivers Arapey Grande, Arapey Chico, and the Curaeim. There is no doubt that the causes which attract the industry and energy of the prudent Germans in this marked manner will also draw a great number of English agricultural settlers to the neighbourhood of a city in which so much English capital and enterprise are being commercially employed as in Monte Video ; and a very potent stimulus to the wishes of the Uruguayan government in this respect must be afforded by the new Liverpool line of steamers, running monthly to Brazil and the Plata, under circumstances very different from those that formerly characterised the Anglo steam communication with that part of South America. Some twelve years since, slavery was abolished in the territory of ' the Repubhc. Many hands, then obliged to devote themselves to tillage, abandoned it in order to occupy themselves in some other branches of industry which appeared to them more lucrative. Agriculture, which even then was not engaged in to any great extent, felt the blow ; but what appeared fatal to it was converted into a benefit. For slaves was substituted free labour, because 250 MONTE VIDEO. the government at once comprehended the necessity of favourmg, by all possible means, the principal branch of industry which sup- ports states; and agriculture, instead of dwindling away, compara- tively flourished. The abandonment of the most fertile plains, and the prices of their produce, encouraged strangers to come to cultivate them ; and not only did agriculture gain in extent, but the soil likewise in production, which was doubled by industry. Attracted by the certainty of profit, and encouraged by the go- vernment, the emigration to the Uruguay was daily increased, and vessels, loaded with 200 to 300 emigrants, continually arrived at Monte Video. More than one company has been formed, in order, in conjunction with the government, to promote emigration to the interior of the country and its colonization. One, under the name of 'Pastoral and Agricultural Company of Merinos,' (Sociedade Agricola Pastoral de Merinos) is estabUshing a colony near the village of Carmelo, to which it destines a large tract of land. In its centre will be formed a city, under the name of Pueblo de la Estrella ; and the same colony will have a normal school of agricultuae, and a garden of acclimatization and practical essays of this science. On the banks of the Uruguay, an agricul- tural colony of European famiUes of the same class is also being established. In the same manner a town wiU be constructed there, the plan of which is being formed. Another agricultural society of the colony has promoted an association among the inliabitants of the city of Colonia, for the colonization of the country. Some time ago it issued the greater portion of its shares, and, as I learned, intended to import from the Canary Islands 50 agricultural fami- lies, of four persons each, to whom to distribute lands, seeds, instru- ments, &c. In the department of Soriano, other societies intend to introduce 800 to 1,000 European families, who are to devote themselves to agriculture ; lastly, the necessity for the encourage- ment of colonization is everywhere recognized, and its promotion is sought in every possible way. These and many other schemes of a somewhat similar kind are yet a verylong way indeed from fruition ; and some considerable MONTE VIDSa. 251 time must elapse before they can be anything- but dreams. Doubtless the disturbed state of Europe will lend a great impetus to the immigration we have spoken of, and the mere talli of the improvements we adverted to bespeaks a yearning after social good that must ultimately realize its own object. For one who knows the people well, says : — Of natural or unschooled talent there is a great deal there. A vivacious imagination is almost universal in the inhabitants ; and in the fine language which they possess, they express themselves with a fluency, if not an eloquence, at which we seldom aim, and to wMch we much seldomer attain. This facility has gi'own out of their tertulia, or conversazione habits. Among the lawyers, the constant practice of dictating to an amanuensis, the definitions, reasonings, and refutations in the various cases in which they are retained, enable them often to write, and to write with fluency and elegance, upon subjects, the theory and bearing of which they study for the occasion. Of course aU such wi'itings are more plausible than profound, more replete with declamation than sound reasoning. The imagination of the South American is constantly at work ; and unconsciously, perhaps, he is ever showing forth, among his country- men, things as they ought to be, hot as they are. When we hear him descant, in glowing and eloquent terms on civil liberty, freedom of the press, liberal education, privileges of the constitution, we fancy there must be a tolerably good foundation laid of all these blessings before so much could be said about them. This naturally leads me to speak of social life in Monte Video, which, as far as I had an opportunity of judging, is frank, cordial,^ and agreeable, there being a much greater admixture of the citi- zens with foreigners, and especially with English, than I observed at Lisbon, and than I know exists in Brazil. English society in itself is also much more extensive than I could have well believed, and is of a very superior order — ^refined, intelhgent, and hospitable. There is full freedom for religious worship of every kind ; and Mr. Samuel Lafone, of the firm of Lafone Brothers^ of Monte Video and Liverpool — a name preeminent in British trade with the Plate — having, at the expense of several thousand pounds, constructed a handsome and commodious church for the use of his Protestant fellow-countrymen, presented it, and the ground on which it stands (convenient to the anchorage for men-of-war), to them in perpetuity, without the slightest reserve or expectancy of remuneration, save the reward conveyed by the consciousness: 252 MONTE VIDEO. of having done a noble act, for the best of purposes, and with the purest motives. There are also considerable numbers of British mechanics in Monte Video, and agriculturists and shepherds in the Republic, the climate being humid, temperate, and bracing, like our own. The Uruguay adjoins that fine healthy province of Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, to which some hundreds of Irish emigrants, more especially from the Barony Forth, in the county of Wexford — admirable specimens indeed of ' the finest peasantry in the world ' — ^have proceeded, within the last few years, from Liverpool, under the auspices of Admiral Grenfell, the Brazilian Consul-General at that port ; and all the accounts they have liitherto sent home, whether by themselves, or the pastor who accompanied them, the Rev. R. Walsh, represent their circum- stances and situation as prosperous and happy, an admirable loamy land being obtainable, in an unlimited quantity, at a dollar an acre. Some Anglo-South American houses also have a good many Welch on their properties in the same province, and their reports are all to the like effect. At still cheaper rates may yet finer land, and in a stiU better climate, be obtained in the Uruguay; and from all I have been able to see, hear, or read, I am inclined to beUeve that there is no more eligible spot in the world for an intending emigrant than the Banda Oriental, whether capitahst or labourer, whether an agriculturist, a grazier, a wool grower, or even a cotton grower, a horse or cattle breeder, or one skilled in the preparation of hides, horns, or tallow for the home market ; or whether he be a rural mechanic or farm servant, or small yeo- man desirous of bringing up a family in any or every branch of husbandry. On all subjects connected with agricultural pursuits in this region of the world, but more especially as regards the breeding of horses, cattle, and sheep, and their preparation for the several markets they are suited to, the excellent work of Mr. M'Cann ('Two Thousand Miles' Ride through the Argentine Provinces'), may with great confidence be recommended, as fur- nishing on these points a mass of information nowhere else to be found, and valuable especially as being the result of the author's MONTE VIDEO. 253 actual experience. My own observations were naturally con- fined to the capital and its immediate vicinity ; and my opinion, therefore, on such extensive matters as those embraced by Mr M'Cann would be of about the same value as those of a Cockney who should pronounce on the territorial condition of England from a Sunday afternoon's contemplation of a suburban tea-garden. And, speaking somewhat in the latter sense, I should say that the neighbourhood of Monte Video would be pronounced by the sentimental gentleman in Pickwick to be the very paradise of mar- ket gardeners, with or without gazelles, as the case might be. The mention of gazelles is naturally suggestive of some remarks about certain other and biped proprietors of heaux yeux ; but we must reserve such matters for the next chapter, merely pre- mising that the observations therein offered are in every respect perfectly applicable to the fair Monte- Videans, who are, indeed, even fairer, or at least less embrowned, than the Buenos Ayrean belles, being, if possible, more distinctive types of Spanish beauty, or what used to be such ; for according to the recent* pronuncia- * Lady Louisa Tennison, who, in her beautiful work Andalusia, l^c, pub- lished by Bentley at the close of last year [1853], says: — I know that I shall be accused of insensibility and want of taste, when I confess that my first disappointment on landing in Spain was the almost total absence of beauty amongst the Spanish women. Poets have simg of Spain's ' dark-glancing daughters,' and travellers have wandered through the country, with minds so deeply impressed with the preconceived idea of the beauty of the women, that they have found them all their ima- ginations so fondly pictured, and their works have fostered, what I cannot help maintain- ing, is a mere delusion ; one of the many in which people still indulge when they think and dream of Spain. The women of Spain have magnificent eyes, beautiful hair, and generally fine teeth ; but more than that cannot be said by those who are content to give an honest opinion. I have rarely seen one whose features could be called strictly beau- tiful, and that bewitching grace and fascination about their figures and their walk which they formerly possessed, have disappeared with the high comb which supported the man- tilla, and the narrow basquina, which gave a peculiar character to their walk. With the change in their costume, those distinctive charms have vanished. The gaudy colours which now prevail have destroyed the elegance that always accompanies black, in which alone, some years since, a lady could appear in public. No further proof of this is required than to see the same people at church, where black is still considered indispensable, and on the Alameda with red dresses and yellow shawls, or some colours equally gaudy, and com- bined with as liftle regard to taste. The men have likewise abandoned the cloak, and now appear in paletots and every variety of foreign invention : nor have they either gained by their sacrifices at the altar of French fashion. By no means distinguished in figure none needed more the rich folds of the capa to lend them that air of grace and dignity which it peculiarly possesses. 254 MONTE VIDEO. mento of a most competent and accomplislioJ critic, tlic syrens of Soiitliern Europe are no such great cliarmei's after all — an assurance that must be consolatory to the British mannnas of young Hope- fuls quartered at Gibraltar. But, be that as it may, few of the worscr half of humanity will question the right of the Trans- atlantic descendants of Castillian dames to the suzerainty of all beholders, especially when to the iloresque conq^lexion is added that distinctive optic attribute of the Goth which the Celts so much admire, as shown in the familiar Portuguese dittv : — Olhos pardos e negros Black eyes and bro'ft n Sao OS commues ; You may every day see Maisosdoiiiinhaaniante Bntljlue like my lover s l)ens fez azues. The gods made fur m I am happy to Ije able to fortify m> own opinion of the attractions and comcnienccs of j\I(jiito Video by the very competent authority of i\Ir. L Hugh do Bonelli, secretary to Ilei Britannic ^Majesty's legation in Bo livia, who, in a very interesting coupilc of volumes, published by Messrs. Hurst and Blackett, in th( course of last month, (February 1854,) entitled ' Travels in Bolivia with a Tour across the Pampas to Buenos Ayres, &c.,' expresses him- self infinitely pleased with the place and his description is so felicitous that I venturetoappend it in anute.' niA A :\nsA — {,(-hn(; ti.) :>iass. * The appearance of the eity of ilonte Video is most prepossessing. It is Ijuilt on an eminence which forms a small peninsula, being -vvashed on three sides by the sea, and from the various sea-breezes to which the situation exposes it, must be a very healthy spot. It is calculated to maintain a very extensive commerce, and would, doubtless, long have enjoyed it, had not the ■\dtality of the little Republic sunk mider the oljstinate persecution to which it was subjecteil by Rosas, in the person of the savage and over- bearing Lieutenant Orebbe. At the time of my visit the Brazilian fleet, under the com- mand (if Admiral "Wingtield, was in the otling. Notwithstanding the devastating effects of war, this city, riii.enix-lii;e, is again rising from her ashes. Lines of bastions and batteries are daily giving place to scenes of commercial enterprise and agricidtural acti- '\ ity. The husbandman labours with his ploughshare and the sickle, where deadly en- MONTE VIDEO. 255 Since these remarks were written, the news from the Uruguay continues to be of so conclusive a character as to give every as- surance that this fine country has really at last entered upon the prosperous destiny its great natural advantages so clearly point to, provided only peace were ensured. That peace will hence- forth be preserved is now certain, and consequently we may calculate on ordinary events following ordinary causes, as in all other parts of the world. By the common consent of the moderate and intelligent of all classes in the Banda Oriental, Brazil has been solicited to assume the protectorate of the Re- public. This high and responsible trust she has undertaken in the spirit of magnanimity and disinterestedness that will be in- ferred from the perusal of our observations towards the close of the chapter on Rio Janeiro. As there stated, Brazil has no ac- quisitive designs on Uruguayan territory ; but she has a design and determination to keep peace in that state for the sake of having a quiet neighbour on her own important southern frontier, gines of war once vented forth their flames. Streets lined with new and extensive build- ings are met with at every turn. Elegant French shops attract the eye, as their well- stored windows exhibit the beautiful fabrics of European manufacture. So great is the number of foreigners who are domiciled in the city, that it has quite the appearance of a colony of strangers, the natives of the country forming but a small proportion of the entire population. The Basques predominate. After that the Italians take the lead. Little good has been effected by the maintenance of a foreign legion for so long a time, under the auspices of the celebrated Italian leader, Garibaldi. The present troops of the i Republic are the emancipated negroes, officered by native whites. The Hotel de Paris is I kept by a French cook, who at one time belonged to a French vessel of war. For the accommodation of a few rooms and board for three persons, I was charged here at the rate of a doubloon a day. There are several other hotels in the city. That of II Comercio bears a good repute. The whole place, including the suburbs, literally swarms with cafes and estaminets. That of the Bal d'Oro, which is A large establishment near the quay, carries off the palm, and is much frequented by officers of the French navy. The various dwelling-houses are provided with flat roofs, and these, combined with a immber of observatories, which are the constant resort of the inmates, gave the city a lively and agreeable aspect. The market-place, which formerly formed a part of the old fort or citadel in the time of the Spaniards, is well supplied with every species of provisions. Its display of fish fai- sm^passes that of Buenos Ayres, both as regards variety and quality. As a mai-itime and commercial port, Monte Video holds a very desirable position, and will doubtless before long supersede Buenos Ayres, as the first port on the coast for the disembarkation of goods for the internal consumption of the country. The effects of the cessation of hostilities begin already to be seen in a gi'eat outlay of capital ; and in the course of a few years, when commercial relations are on a better basis, and security to life and property is better insured, this city will rise into greater mercantile importance than any other in this part of the New World. 256 MONTE VIDEO. irrespective of her natural anxiety for the advancement of so im- portant a portion of the South American east coast as has Monte Video for its capital. She has not interfered, nor does she intend to interfere, with the internal or domestic affairs of the Republic in any way, further than securing the inhabitants the exercise of the right to elect their own rulers, and securing to those so elected the right of peaceably discharging their functions without the perpetual molestations which the armed violence of military adventurers have for so many years entailed upon all adminis- trations in succession. As the most essential preliminary to quietude, Brazil has undertaken to remove one source of ever- irritating provocation and confusion from the Uruguay, by sub- sidizing the government to pay what is necessary to carry on its affairs properly and efficiently, without those pecuniary impedi- ments that have so frequently paralysed every administration in turn ; but Brazil has insisted that the fiscal resources of the Re- public shall not be squandered in the mere process of collection, as has been the case hitherto. Brazil, in fact, occupies the position of a police, who has only the one object to prevent out- rage, compel the observance of honesty, and ensure obedience not to her arbitrary edicts or capricious ordinances, but to the recognized laws of the country itself. It is needless to say that if the native Orientals are delighted at this stable state of things following on the anarchy that had become almost chronic, still more so are the foreigners, who constitute so large a portion of the wealthy and influential trading inhabitants of the capital, and of the landed proprietary. Some suspicions have been expressed that Brazil would convert her present position to the frustration of the liberal commercial pohcy lately established between some of the adjoining South American states and Europe, and that Paraguay may be relegated to her former isolation once more in consequence. But nothing can be more unfounded than such ap- prehension; for, apart from its being the obvious interest of Brazil to bring all portions of the continent of which she forms so important a section into commercial contiguity with the old world, MONTE VIDEO. 257 the former treaties between the Banda Oriental and England and France and Sardinia, and the new ones between those latter countries and Paraguay would necessarily demand an interven- tion from which Brazil would intuitively shrink ; and, moreover, the United States of North America would immediately resent any obstructions that should impede the course of events which she evidently contemplates by despatching a diplomatic and con- sular representative to Paraguay. Altogether, then, there is every reason to believe that the good offices of Brazil will prove of inestimable benefit to the Uruguay, and that that Republic and England will alike find in such offices the best auxiliary to the mutually beneficial interests between the two countries.* In Monte Video, accommodation for travellers is naturally very limited, principally owing to the disorganized state of the city for so many years. Still, there are some tolerably good hotels, and a fair number of cafes and restaurants. At Buenos Ayres hotels are numerous, and so far as my experience extended, the * Owing to the disturbed condition in which the Banda Oriental had been for so many years, during the aggression of Rosas, and the absorbing anxiety that has since prevailed to repair some of the disasters so occasioned, added to the domestic dissentions that have too often supervened, the authorities in the Uruguay have not been able to devote much attention to the cultivation of European diplomatic relations. Any aifairs of that nature in England pertain- ing to the republic are transacted at the Consulate Office, New Palace Yard, Westminster; and commercial consular matters in Liverpool by Mr. Hall, Dale-street, who is Mmself a citizen, and the son of a citizen, of the Uruguay, having succeeded his father in his present office. The British diplomatic and consular staff in the Uruguay consists of Mr. G. J. R. Gordon, who was pri- vate secretary to the late Sir Edward DLsbrowe, at Stuttgard, in'l832, was appointed unpaid attache at Frankfort in 1833, at Stockholm in 1834, paid attache at Rio Janeiro in 1836, charge d'affaires there in 1837, to a special mission in Paraguay in 1842, secretary of legation at Stockhohn in 1843, and charge d'affaires and consul-general in the Uruguay in 1853. His salary in the latter capacity is 1400Z. per annum, exclusive of 11. per day for diplomatic services as charge d'affaires. The vice-consul at Monte Video, who receives 500/. per annum, or lOOZ. more than the same officer at Buenos Ayres, is Mr. G. S. L. Hunt, who served some time in the army, was a supernumerary clerk in the Librarian's Department of the Foreign Office in 1846, and in 1847 was appointed to his present post at Monte Video, where he for some time acted as consul-general. 258 MONTE VIDEO. charges are by no means extravagant, as will be sufficiently proved by a perusal of my bill of costs presented to me on leaving the Hotel de Paris, where I remained some ten days, retaining my apartments, though absent up the river nearly half the time : — Paper dollars. Bedroom and sitting-room 210 Breakfasts 20 Dinners and wine l-'^O Lights n 370 Waitei'S and chambemiaid .iO 120 Or about o guineas. There are also plenty of good lodging and boarding-houses, several of them kept hy English and other foreign residents ; and the increase to this kind of accommodation appears to be only limited bv the demand. ■ 1: \ * "3? Tl ' if! V \4\i CHAPTER XII. BUENOS AYRES. Departure from Monte Video. — Moonlight on the La Plata. — Deficiency of landing accommodation at Buenos Ayres. — Streets and buildings of the Argentine capital. — The climate and the people. — Prohibition of the slave trade. — General Whitelock, the CaUe de Defensa, and Colonel Thompson. — Expedition against Monte Video. — Palermo, the country re- sidence of General Rosas. — Characters of the dictator and his successor, Urquiza. — Donna Manueleta. — Argentine confederation. — Government of General Rosas. — War on the Plata and the Parana. — Foreign interven- tion and capture of Rosas' fleet — Blockade of Buenos Ayres and ascent of the Parana. — The pass of Obligado. — Intervention of Brazil, and passage of the Uruguay by Urquiza. — Capitulation of General Oribe. — Battle of Moron, and faU of Rosas. — Fluvial obstructions to trade and navigation. Buenos Ayrean washerwomen. — ^English residents, their churches and newspaper, hotels and boarding-houses. — Anglo intermarriages. — Rail- way projects. — A word on the Buenos Ayi-ean constitution. — A South American debate. — Society in Buenos Ayres. — The Opera-house, and its galaxy of beauty. — Foreign shopkeepers and Irish servants. — General Paz. Leaving Monte Video for a time, let us now ascend the La Plata, and take a peep at this far-famed Lion's Den, where for so many years the despotic Rosas pursued his iniquitous course with impu- nity. We got up steam, and left just before dark, with a fair number of passengers for a first trip, and any quantity of luggage belonging to them. It was a magnificent moonlight as we glided over the great waters, for such they may truly be called ; scarcely a breath of wind, but a cold, rarified air, that made many resort to their coats, cloaks, and any other available covering. Our only difiiculty was in making the vessel go slow enough, and even so we arrived off the outer roads long before daylight, after which we made our way through a fleet of shipping, and the city of Buenos Ayres was spread before us, rising, as it were, out of the water, tall churches and domes standing forth in strong relief BUENOS AYRES. 261 against a glittering sun ; but in other respects, appearances were not very inviting. After two hours consumed in waiting for the officer to board us, we were enabled to land — and such landing ! worse even than what met the Spaniards on their first visit ; for since that time heaps of petrified mud have accumulated on the shore, which thus looks like rock, and boats are obliged lite- rally to grope their way through it, going as near as they can to the land ; but the usual process is for visitors to be bundled out of the boat into an open cart, drawn by two horses, like so many pigs or sheep, often at the risk of being drenched. Indeed, nothing can be more wretched than this landing at one of the finest cities of South America, which does not possess a single jetty, wharf, pier, or accommodation of any kind in this way, although there is a fine walk built along the margin of the river, serving as Note to the Illustrations. — The view preceding- this chapter is a re- duced fac simile of the drawing of the city, taken by Sir W. Gt. Ouseley, from the house, or quinta, occupied by him during the period lie was Minister here, it having formerly been the residence of the two diplomatists who preceded him, Mr. Hamilton and Mr. Mandeville. Sir William saya the dwelling is situated iu the suburb of the city, and stands in a pretty garden and pleasure grounds, occupying above nine acres. The sketch was taken while a squall was coming- on, the precursor of one of the hurricanes called Pamperos, but which are not quite peculiar to the Pampas, inasmuch as something of the same kind will be found to be of occasional occurrence in Brazil, as specified in the note to the illustration of Rio Janeiro, at page 150. Vessels in the Plate, and along the coast, often suffer severely from the Pamperos, or gales blowing over plains that stretch out to the foot of the Andes. These storms come on very suddenly, so that not unfrequently, while one part of the landscape is still basking iu cilm sunshine, the rest is shi-ouded in a dai'k veil, almost intercept- ing the light of day, while black clouds are impetuously swept onwards by the advancing gale, discharging in their course torrents of rain, until in a short time the whole of the horizon is alike inducted by the Pamperos, generally lasting for three days. Even experienced pilots and mariners have but short warning of their approach ; and at certain seasons of the year particulai-ly great vigilance is highly necessary to guard against their sudden violence. Buenos Ayres, like Monte Video and nearly all the towns in these provinces, is built on the rectangular system prescribed by the laws of the Indies, the streets intersecting each other at right angles every 150 yards, foi-ming what the Americans call regular squares or blocks. It does not foUow, however that this regularity contributes in reality either to the beauty or convenience of a town. It is monotonous, and the uniformity is certainly far less pictur- BUENOS AYKES. •'"'^ a public promenade, but yet very little frequented. The only redeeming point in this landing is the singularity of the turn out, the picturesque dress aad character of the drivers being agani much ofthe Turk, only a finer and more athletic race, with any de- gree of personal activity, and no touch of pity in them towards the unfortunate animals they ride ; for there is no driving here, all done en postilion, and I beheve they even fish on horseback, to say nothing of begging. The position of the roadstead is bad enough, the outer roads being five to six miles from shore, and the inner roads from one to two miles, (according to the position taken up,) ^vithout being subjected to such uiconvenience when you do reach the land ; but on this point we shall have some further remarks to make when reviewing the commercial character of the place. The unfavourable sensation produced by the vile landing and unfinished look of the churches and buildings from the river vanishes when fairly in the heart of the city. You are struck with astonishment at its vast size, many well-paved streets, public buildings, and houses redolent of luxurious comfort. Nor does a esijue than tlie sort of irregularity tliat gives so pleasing an effect to tlie Boulevards of Paris, and to many parts of the older capitals of Europe. Here the more handsome buildings, as usual in Spanish and Portuguese America, are mostly of an ecclesiastical character — churches, convents, &c. At a distance, or softened by the shades of evening, they have an imposing appearance ; but a nearer approach and bright daylight show, as in Eastern towns, tliat the ravages of time have never been checked by proper care ; that few have ever been completely finished or repaired ; and many bear marks of utter neglect and decay. This is especially the case with edifices constructed for charitable purposes and public buildings. Hospitals, schools, lunatic asylums, &c., were until lately gomg to ruin, and whatever funds or estates may have originally been granted by private or public benefactors for the support of these institu- tions, they had not been employed by recent governments, more especially that of Rosas, for their maintenance, as intended by the donors. Several of the streets are paved with granite, brought from the islands above Buenos Ayres — chiefly from Martin Garcia ; but being on a bad principle, a.s the stones are neither of equal size, nor properly cut, they, therefore, soon become uneven and very trying for carnages. The unpaved ones are actually dangerous or impassable for vehicles with springs and horses, especially after heavy rains -, for, there being no stones, while the soil is fine and of great depth, deep holes, (juagmires, and pools of water, form in parts of them. 264 BUEXOS AYRKS. closer iuspoctiou i|uitu vuinuvc this improsslon ; on the contfary, the more you examine and penetrate, the greater the sur- prise that after so long: a pe- riod of civil and foreign war- fare, there should still exist I'i so much vitality. The convie- JWl' tion at once forces itself upon you that there must be wealth, and no small amount of it, ;=^ somewhere. Any lengthened description of Buenos Ayres, beyond what is supplied in the note below,* and that on the illustration, would be superfluous, so many thousand English having visited and recorded their experiences of it ; but it is very questionable whether the pub- lic generally have any adequate idea of the magnitude of the city, the extent of its inland territory, or the leading characteristics of both. At all events, very few works liave been published from '* Miiuy lit' the Bueuos Ayreaii liousci, especially in the suburbs, cousist of iv square of buildiufi' suvrouuiling- a Patiii, or quadrangular court, paved with marble, aud having- either a fountain, or, more frequently, a draw-well, in the centre, and often pleasingly ornamented with flowers, shrubs and fruit. Tlie mode and materials of building- here, as in other parts of iSouth America, are such as to obviate, in a great degree, tlie danger of tire. Stone or brick, iron, stucco, and tiles are the chief component parts of a house ; little wood is em- ployed, except for beams, and this is generally hard and heavy, especially in Brazil, and not readily combustible, as explained in a previous chapter. The floors, except in some houses built by foreigners, are not constructed of wood, but of glazed tiles, as in the South of Europe ; the staircases bemg also of solid masonry. The population of Buenos Ayres had been constantly decreas- ing since tlie time Rosas introduced his reign of terror ; but there is now a decided turn m the state of things in that respect. It may be simply classified into the white and coloured races ; the latter constituting nearly a fourth of the whole, which is a smaller proportion than in any other town on the east side of South America. The slave-trade was prohibited in 1813, by a de- cree of the first constituent assembly, consequently any further supply of the negro-stock has ceased ; and since then slavery has gradually become extin- guished, not only in Buenos Ayres. but in all the provinces of La Plata, either by the slaves enrolling themselves as soldiers, or by their purchasing their freedom. The negroes now constilulc. pcrhaivs. the must useful and indus- liiiius cla^s of the lower nrders nt (he cnuiinuiiilv. BUENOS AYRES. 265. which accurate information of this kind can be derived ; the recent and most valuable one of Sir Woodbine Parisli being as yet only partially known, in consequence of its being but a second edition of one published several years ago ; and even since the second edition appeared, scarcely two years back, there is necessity for further information, so unstable is the condition of things, and so rapid the mutation of momentous events in these regions. Cer- tainly there is ample scope for dissertation in all that comes under one's notice here, look with what indifference or contempt we may upon the individuals and parties by whom political occurrences are influenced. First, as regards the climate and people : the dif- ference in temperature between Buenos Ayres and Rio Janeiro at this season of the year is from 20 to 30 deg., and after four or live days' sailing, you find yourself obliged to change the hghtest possible clothing for Enghsh tweeds and stout broad-cloth, which, mindful of such vicissitude, and therein being much more provi- dent than some of my fellow voyagers, I had fortunately with me. It is a precaution I would recommend all voyagers in the Plate to adopt, as it is one that will not only save them much inconvenience at the outset, but probably obviate a material cause of subsequent illness, consequent upon exposure to such rapid transitions as are here experienced, especially until the traveller becomes somewhat acclimated. The mornings and evenings are positively cold, even according to our English acceptation of the word ; and most houses had fires in their sitting rooms. In the day time the sun is warm and pleasant ; the air of that bracing kind which is calculated to raise the animal spirits, and give a tone and energy to the mind. The difference, too, in the people between this place and Brazil is remark- able : — strong, healthy-looking men, clear complexioned, bright- eyed women, many of whom have as much bloom on their cheeks as would become an English dairy-maid. Of course, there is a con- siderable mixture of races ; but the true native Buenos Ayreans can be easily distinguished by their rather dark but clear com- plexion, dark eyes, and dark hair, strongly-marked sharp features, 20(1 Bl'EXOS AYRES, ami soniuwluit acjiiilinc nose; whilst thoGuaelios, ^ III tosiiue-lookinir steeds. ' ^ ' 1 'lll| They remind one im- mediately of Arab sketches, or. still more vi\idly. of real Ai'abs. ^ if YOU have boeu fnrtu- VLM.i:iion hi: I'TM.i i;, - M\ i.i;i-Mi-:AT-5Kr,i.|.:i:, uatc enough to have made the nMM-land trip, and beheld the fdUowers of the Prophet ni the land nf dates, ii.dm-trees, and dnmiedaries ; many of these (.Tuacliiis being, also, innnenseh' nmscular. tine-looking men. Nu- merous lilack faces ai'e also to l)e s(>en here, the owners thereof being all free, and mostly occujiled as regular soldiers, as likewise at Monte Video. Pueniis Ayi'cs litci'ally fo)-ms a regular chess-boarr of the roast did so at oui-e. CdUgratulatiug himself that he only suft'ei'ed the penaltv of a severe attack of I'heumatism. instead nf the more snnniiar\- visitation wherewith the dictator generally followed up the sliniit- est implied ojipiisition tn his wishes, even in so truinperva matter as the line we speak of. P.tl.F.P.MO — Fril!,MT-|!r.T TIH^ Kl-'iiriKNTT or l:iis\x. A o-(»id level road has lieeu cai-ri(Ml from the cil \ t(i I'alcrmu 272 BUEXOS AYRES. at considerable expense, the approach being ' through an avenue of willows,' made to look as park-like as possible. About the house, or palace, as it might have been called in the days of its glorv, are numerous out-buildings and barracks for cavalry, of which Rosas always kept a strong body-guard, as might naturally have been expected from his antecedents, he having principally risen to power in the first instance among his fellow guachos by the superior daring and dexterity of his horsemanship ; added, of course, to his extreme adroitness in turning to his own account the dissentions of his rivals in the race for power. Passing the house, down another long avenue towards the river, you are surprised at seeing a large vessel, evidently fitted up for some special purpose. It appears she was driven ashore there in some heavy gale ; and Rosa« had her converted into a pleasure house, where balls and parties were held — another toy or plaything suited to the cha- racter of the man. Nature being found rather stubborn in yield- ing to the wishes of the owner of Palermo, immense sums were expended in planting orange trees, ever-greens, and exotics, of one kind or another, which were brushed and combed daily, and coaxed into a sickly existence ; but it would not do. Nothing but willows flourish, or will continue to flourish, over the dilapidated abode from which issued many a bloody decree of this Borgia of the Pampas. I have no wish to say anything unnecessarily harsh of Rosas : on the contrary, knowing, as I do, what was the state of parties in this portion of South America, I am quite wilHng to admit the extreme exigency of his position in the first instance, as one who must put down, with an iron, and even a remorseless, hand, that universal anarchy and violence in the midst of which he attained the eminence of being the most daring and sanguinary member of a community of semi-civilized brigands. But what should silence, or rather should have silenced, for they are all mute enough now, his well-paid eulogists and defenders, is the continu- ance of mean and miserable cruelties, long after the faintest pre- text for their perpetration on political grounds had passed away. BUENOS ATBBS. 273 I will not shock the reader by a revival of stories at which one's blood runs cold. He is gone ; fled as ignominiously as he had lived detestably ; and, notwithstanding his gangs of gorged assassin friends, who would profit by his return, he has left none behind who bless his memory. If any proof were wanted, this would be conclusive, as to the purely selfish career of the man ; for even a comity of crime evokes no benison on the head of the expelled despot, who never thought of anything but the aggrandisement of himself and family, at the expense of the national treasury. The revulsion of popular feeling towards him is only what might have been anticipated, though hardly, perhaps, to the extent that has actually taken place, considering the length of time he ruled, and the immense number of personal retainers one would have thought he might have contrived to attach to him. Some of these remained faithful after his fall, to the length of employing a portion of the ample funds left behind him to endeavour to promote his recall. There has been an end of this for some time, and, consequently, a cessation of the intrigues arising from it. Urquiza, his some- time successor in the dictatorship, and the present President of the Argentine Confederation, (though long since repudiated by the principal state of the confederacy, Buenos Ayres, itself), extended to Rosas the almost unheard-of generosity of sparing his so-called private property — property which he wrung from the state, and which, on his departure, was employed by his myrmidons to effect the expulsion of Urquiza, and bring about the restoration of the elder tyrant. The former object it undoubtedly greatly helped to accomphsh ; in the latter it entirely failed ; for, though Urquiza certainly entered upon unwise courses, was too precipitate and sweeping in his changes, and mistook violence for vigoiu-, in many instances, as was not unnatural in a soldier fresh from another country, for the province of which he was president, Entre Rios, may be called so, still, from all I could learn among dispassionate critics, it would seem that he and the citizens, friends of order, would soon have become reconciled to each other, and there would have been a mutual softening of acerbities, were it not for T 274 BUENOS AYRBS. the emissaries of Kosas being enabled, by the means just men- tioned, to foment those antagonist feehngs which eventually led to the siege and blockade, by Urquiza, of the very place he had so lately freed from the presence of the despot. Whatever may have been the faults of Urquiza, and they certainly find no apologist in me, his brief tenure of supreme power was sufficiently long to prove that he was altogether a man of superior stamp to Rosas, whose selfishness lacked even the ambition to make his tyranny respectable, in the sense that the most narrow-minded of oppressors have endeavoured to do elsewhere. Francia, whilst isolating Paraguay from all the world, contrived to make the Paraguayans proud of their country, and to cause others to believe that that pride was not altogether unfounded. Not so with Rosas : short-sighted as Francia, he had not a particle of the lofty feeling which influenced that gloomy bigot ; for, while endea- vouring to render Buenos Ayres powerful, it was all for himself individually ; and he cared not to give the Buenos Ayreans an interest in saying that the tyrant who ground them was otherwise than simply hateful, and that what he achieved for them in the eyes of foreigners was purely contemptible. Saying nothing of the total absence, under his regime, of any commercial conveni- ence, as already pointed out, not a single thing was done during his sway that had for its object real internal improvement. No newspapers were allowed to appear, except those under his sanction, in the same way as the one St. Petersburgh journal under the Czar's surveillance. Not a single literary, historical, descriptive, or local work was allowed to be pubhshed or sold in Buenos Ayres, and barely a common-place almanack could be pro- cured ; so that to the present day you cannot find such a thing in the city as the slightest evidence that the mind of the whole population was otherwise than embruted to the level of helots, which indeed was virtually the case all the time his bhghting influence was in the ascendant. The answer to any inquiry at the shops for works of information about either the city or pro- vinces, during that period, is invariably the same, ' Rosas did not BUENOS AYRES. 275 permit their publication ! ' The consequence is, you are obHged to grope your way along, and glean what you can from those you meet. The rationale of this argument is altogether incomprehensible ; for how are we to understand what could be his motive for such conduct at home, when we know that he was particularly assiduous, by means of the French, English, and even German press, and through every instrument of publicity he could influence, whether on stock exchanges, in diplomatic circles, or in fashionable coteries, to disseminate through Europe the beUef that his capital was the abode of luxurious and intellectual enjoyment of every kind, its inhabitants delighted with his paternal sway, and that any interference on behalf of the unfortunate Uruguayans or others of his victims, external or domestic, was to be deprecated as the most irremediable of calamities, not merely to Buenos Ayres itself, but the whole of South America? That he succeeded in propa- gating this belief in some of the best informed quarters of Europe, particularly in England, is but too well known ; and it is not a little curious that almost simultaneously with his arrival here, there appeared in certain organs, influenced by him, loud praises of a Hamburgh publication devoted to the exposition of the wisdom of his commercial pohcy, and ridicuUng the notion of the affluents of the Plata ever being opened to European trade. But he and his system have passed away, and the memory of them is fast de- parting too in the coming of that better time which is beheved to be at hand. His brother arrived in Europe in January last, despair- ing of any restoration of the family fortunes whatever ; so I take leave of a topic that has become as obsolete as it would have been disagreeable to pursue it ; and shall make no apology for the omission in these pages of anecdotic scandals,* for which * I shall not only not repeat none of the Cenei-like stories told of this lady and her father, and cm-rent in every mouth on the Plata, but tell something of a very different kind from Mr. BoneUi, adding, however, that it is the iirst of the sort I ever heard, and I am quite sure it will be looked upon as rare news in Buenos Ayres, though Mr. M'Cann also says something similar, viz. — T 2 276 BUENOS AYRBS. readers at one time looked, as a matter of course, in every book professing to treat of the terrible Dictator, and eke of his famous daughter, the Donna Manueleta, who has been married (to a South American) since her father's arrival in England, and now lives, I believe, in the neighbourhood of Southampton. Un- willing to dwell on the pohtical comphcations in the Plate, and, at the same time, fearing it would be a contradiction of the desire expressed in the preface, to render this volume as informing as possible, especially to readers who may draw from it for the first time their knowledge of South American matters, I append, in a note, from the excellent geographical work of Mr. Charles Knight, now (1854) in course of publication* by Messrs. Bradbury and Evans, a brief, but comprehensive and dispassionate statement of recent incidents in the Argentine Confederation, and have added a few particulars, which, together, will, it is hoped, bring the narra- tive of occurrences necessary to be known down to the period of going to press, without the occupation of much space, or tediously encumbering the text with minutise of proper names, dates, and places, for these are really of little value to the general reader save for purposes of reference. This severe and bloodthirsty man had a daughter, and it is pleasing to turn away from the contemplation of the many vices which disfigure his character to those beautiful traits of humanity and tenderness which distinguished hers. Manisiletta was loved and honoured by all ; pity lurked within her soul, and every attribute of womanly feeling was there. This good creature, with tears and supplication, often prevailed with the harsh tyrant when other means were useless. At her entreaties, many a life was spared, and many a prayer of gratitude has ascended to heaven for the rescue of a father or a brother from his impending fate, at her kind interference. * In January 1831, the provinces of Buenos Ayres, Entre Rios, Corrientes, and Santa Fi, entered into a federal compact, to which all the other provinces at subsequent periods became parties. The union was a voluntary alliance. No general constitution was pro- mulgated, and the adhesion of the several members was left to be secured by the resomces of the person who miglit obtain the direction of affairs. This Argentine Confederation, like the republic which it had succeeded, soon fell into a state of anarchy, and it was not till the election of General Kosas as governor or captain-general, with almost absolute power, in 1836, that even temporary quiet was secured. By this arrangement the pro- vincial government of Buenos Ayres was invested with extraordinary powers, and tem- porarily charged with the transaction of all matters appertaming to the common interests of the confederation, and the carrying out of its business with foreign nations. Rosas had previously served as governor and captain-general of Buenos Ayres for the usual term of three years, and had obtained unrivalled influence in that province, chiefly through Ins military powers, as displayed against the Indians. His decision and energy secured for awhile internal peace, and the provinces began to recover from the effects of the long pre- Tfilent anarchy. But cruelty and despotism marked his sway at home, and his ambition which contmually prompted him' to endeavours to extend his power over the whole coun- BUENOS ATRBS. 277 The view of the port of Buenos Ayres (if it can be called a port) from the flats of the houses is picturesque, vessels lying at anchor as far as the eye can reach. On the left, towards Palermo, is some high ground, with numerous pretty-looking villa resi- dences ; on the right, is the old fort, afterwards the custom-house, warehouses, and depots of various kinds ; further on, what is called the Boca, or Mouth, a small river, where large numbers of minor craft discharge and load in safety ; but, at times, it is try watered by the Plata and the Parana, led him into disputes with foreign powers : and these ultimately brought about his downfall. His commercial policy had for its object to secure for Buenos Ayres the monopoly of the trade of the Plata, his political policy to obtain a like territorial superiority. On the death of Francia, dictator of Paraguay, he refused to acknowledge the indepen- dence of that power, insisting that it should'join the Argentine Confederation, at the same time he refused to allow the navigation of the Parana by vessels bound to Paraguay. Lopez, the new dictator of Paraguay, therefore entered into alliance with the Banda Oriental, now called Uruguay, with which Rosas was at war. These powers applied for assistance to Brazil. The war was prolonged until the whole country on both sides of the Plata and the Parana was in a state of confusion. On the earnest appeal of the merchants and others interested. Great Britain volunteered her mediation, but it was re- jected by Rosas, who marched his troops within a few miles of Monte Video, which his fleet at the same time blockaded. The emperor of Brazil now interfered, and sent a spe- cial mission to request the interposition of the courts of London and Paris. The British and French governments in February 1845, decided on sending plenipotentiaries to the Plata to offer their mediation, and to announce their intention to enforce a cessation of hostilities if needfcd, by an armed intervention. The offer was rejected by Rosas, but readily accepted by his opponents. The united fleet of England and France at once com- menced operations by seizing the fleet of Rosas which was blockading Monte Video, and the island of Martin Garcia wliich commands the entrances of the Parana and the Uru- guay. The harbour of Buenos Ayres was at the same time declared under blockade, and the combined fleet prepared to open the Parana, and to convoy as far as Corrientes any merchant vessels that might desire to ascend that river. Rosas on his part made hasty preparations to intercept the fleet by planting batteries with parks of heavy artillery at Point Obligado ; and placing three strong chains across the river, supported by 24 ves- sels and 10 flrc-ships. On the 19th of November 1846, the combined fleet, consisting of eight sailing and three steam vessels, forced the passage with trifling loss to itself, but entirely destroying the batteries, and considerably injuring the army of Rosas. On the return of the fleet, with a conyoy of 110 vessels, it was encountered at San Lorenzo by a very powerful battery which Rosas had erected in an admirable position, in the full ex- pectation of destroying a large number of the merchant vessels, and of crippling the naval force. The battery commanded the river, and was difficult of attack by the steamers, but it was speedily silenced by a rocket-brigade, which had been the previous night secretly landed on a small island in the river. The combined fleet escaped with trifling loss, the rocket-brigade lost not a man ; but four of the merchant vessels which, through unskilful pilotage, ran ashore, were burnt to prevent them falling into the hands of Rosas. The loss to the Argentine army was very great. Again plenipotentiaries were sent out by the combined powers, but Rosas refused to yield; and England withdrew from the blockade in July, 1848. It was however continued by France until January, 1849. On the final withdrawal of the two great powers in 1860, Brazil determined on active inter- ference. The power of the Dictator, General Rosas, essentially despotic, and devoted to the maintenance of the supremacy of Buenos Ayres, had moreover become intolerable to the provinces which desired a federal and equal union. Accordingly, towards the close of 1860, Brazil, Uruguay, and Paraguay entered into a treaty, to which Corrientes and Entre Rios, as represented by General Urquiza, became parties, by which they bound themselves to continue hostilities until they had effected the deposition of Rosas, 'whose power and tyranny' they declared to be ' incompatible with the peace and happiness of this part of the world.' Early in the spring of 1861 a Brazilian fleet blockaded Buenos •278 BUENOS AYRES. difficult even for them to get out, owing to an accumulation of sand at the river's mouth which Rosas might have kept open, but made a really effectual effort to close it. Looking seaward, swarms of carts are visible going to and from lighters or small vessels at anchor in the inner road, the only means by which shipping can be discharged or loaded, the merchandise exposed of course to damage from being wet, as the horses are often up to their chests, and the cart itself even higher, in the water, through which it has to be dragged for a mile and upwards. The wonder is how any trade whatever can be carried on under such disadvantages. Another singular feature in the vicinage of the landing place is to see the shore covered with garments of cotton and hnen under- going every stage of the ablutionary process, the Buenos Ayrean naiads of the oceanic wash-tub converting the Atlantic to a pur- pose undreamed of by the Mesdames Partington of the elder world. As far as the eye can reach the detergent sisterhood may be seen of an afternoon, like the laundry-maid in the fable, ' spreading out their clothes ;' and their gesticulations, and the chattering they keep up, especially if there is a squall blowing, and one can hear their shrill ti"eble piping fitfully above the blast at intervals, recalls a recollection of the Witches' Dance as played by Paganini, if you ever happen to have heard that weird fantasia on one string ; or, if not, perhaps you will be inclined to account for what must have been the sensation of Columbus and his com- Ayres, and soon after an Argentine force commanded by Urquiza crossed the Uruguay.' The struggle was now virtually terminated. General Oribe, who commanded the anny of Rosas at Monte Video, made a show of resistance, hut it was merely to gain time in order to complete his arrangements with Urquiza, and he soon after capitulated. His soldiers for the most part joined the army of Urquiza, who, at the head of a force amount- ing it is said to 70,000 men, crossed into Buenos Ayres. A general engagement was fought on the plains of Moron, February 2, 1851, when the anny of Rosas was entirely defeated. Rosas, who had commanded in person, succeeded in escaping from the field ; and, in the dress of a peasant, he reached in safety the house of the British minister at Buenos Ayres. From thence, with his daughter, he proceeded on board H.M.'s steamer Locust, and on the 10th of Februai-y sailed in the Conflict steamer for England. But the fall of the tyrant did not bring peace to the unhappy country. Urquiza, bv the governors of the provinces assembled at San Nicolas, was invested with the cliief power, and appointed Provisional Director of the Argentine Confederation. The Chamber of Representatives of Buenos AjTes, however, declared against him, and protested against the proceedings of the convention on the ground of the superior privileges of Buenos Ayres being menaced. Urquiza dissolved the Chamber, and insun-ection broke out. Civil war, with all its aggravated evils, thereupon ensued. [See memoir of Urquiza.] 280 BUEXOS AYRES. panions, on nearing the shores of the new world, when, accordmg to Kogcrs, The sound of harpy -wings they heard And shrieks, not of men, were mingling in the blast. "We have said there is a large foreign population, some say 50,000 ; but though that must be a great exaggeration, there are at all events some 5000 EugUsh of all denominations, many being small tradesmen, and not a few owners of cattle and culti- vators of the soil in the province ; the Anglo Buenos Ayrean com- mimity mustering altogether in sufficient strength to support liberally a well-conducted though not always impartial local organ of their own, in their own language, called the British Packet, TLAZA DE LA VICTORIA. which holds somewhat the same rank among the family of John Bidl on the East coast of South America that Galignani does in Paris— saving the political neutrality of the latter. There is a tolerably handsome well-frecjuented English, and several other protestant churches, nearly all of which have good schools in connection with them ; as have also the places of worship belong- ing to the Germans, who muster to the number of about 900, or nearly equal to the Scotch; but the governmental influence exer- cised over these schools renders them less satisfactory to the parents of the children than could be desired. It is to be hoped BUENOS. AYKES. 281 that now there is a stable form of administration ostabhshed, there will be a reformation in this respect ; for, from tlio circum- stance of Buenos Ayres possessing many institutions for tlie pi'o- motion of science, for painting and di'awing, and some excellent libraries, not saj'ing anything of several good newspapers, which, though in Spanish, are very use- ful to the foreign inhabitants, the city is perhaps one of the best for educational purposes in South America. Indeed, there is a very English aspect in many features of Buenos Ayres, not the least prominent of which are perhaps the hotels and boarding- houses, several of these estab- hshments being conducted by English people, and by natives of the United vStates. Anglo intermarriages with the natives are frequent, and a few years of peace and tranquillity here, as at Monte Video, would give a wonderful impetus to population, and to the trade of the place. Some railway projects were being talked of when I was there, and still more sanguinely since I left. These, if undertaken by joint stock companies on the spot, may be carried out with remunerative success ; but the government are totally helpless in the present state of their finances. One railway scheme, from the mole round to the custom-house along the margin of the river-, would be a great public convenience, and easily made, liailways and steam navigation must be established, to drive these coun- tries a-head, or they will recede into a state of semi-barbarism. They cannot stand still, or remain in their present normal condi- tion ; and it is to be hoped they will take heart of grace from the BOTiCA — <:'Hi::\iisT s shop. 282 BUEXOS AYRES. position and example of Brazil, which shows that it is not dimate. race, geographical position, nor fertility of soil, that gives pros- perity to a country ; but 1st, peace, and, above all, internal peace ; and, 2ndly, a determination to avail of the advantages which peace alone permits of, when it is a peace secured, not by the leaden despotism of a Paraguayan Francia or a Muscovite Nicholas, but by a constitutional government, rendering every man equal in the eye of the law, and rendering the law equally applicable to every man's case, from the President or Emperor, to the humblest citi- zen, whatever his creed, colour, or profession. In reference to the system of government prevailing in Buenos Ayres, it is only necessary to say that, hke all the South American republics, nominal freedom is maintained on the widest basis. Forty-four deputies, one-half of whom are elected every year by the people, compose the junta, or legislative assembly, by whom the governor,* or captain-general, is chosen for three years, he being altogether unfettered in his choice of ministry, but their policy must of course be acceptable to the junta to be rendered effective, as in the case of the British Cabinet and House of Commons. The provisional governor now in office is Don Manuel Pinto ; and from all I could hear, his conduct, and that of his ministers, is regarded with as much general favour as could be reasonably expected, considering his and their exceedingly anomalous position. For it is to be * General Jose Mari.a Paz, minister of war, to whom I had the pleasure of a personal introduction, is a man of benevolent aspect and quick address. He is a native of Buenos Ayres, and commenced his military career during the war of independence against Spain, in which he greatly distinguished himself. In the campaign against Brazil, in 1825, he commanded a brigade in the army of General Alviar, and added to the laurels he had already won. When General Rosas seized upon the supreme government of Buenos Ayres, General Paz was among those who opposed his usurpations ; hut in one of the engage- ments which followed he was taken prisoner, and kept a long time in confine- ment. Having at length obtained his liberation, he commanded in the pro- vince of Corrientes, and defeated General Echague at the battle of Cargaassu, in which he displayed the greatest tact and ability. He commanded the gar- rison of Monte Video during the memorable siege that city sustained from the forces of Rosas and Oribe, and is generally esteemed one of the ablest, and the most honourable, truthful, and humane of the South American chiefs. i "!^^;"f^ 284 BUENOS ATEES. remembered that Buenos Ayres is, de jure, a province of the Argentine Confederation, and yet de facto, separated from it, the difficulty being to determine how far either condition is acceptable, or the contrary, whether to the Buenos Ayreans themselves, or to any, and how many, of the other provinces, whose constancy to any one view, whether as affecting their individual or federative status, cannot be counted upon for a month together. I had not an opportunity of attending the Buenos Ayrean Assembly, but believe that the description given of that at Rio is tolerably appli- cable to it, and that both, and indeed those of all the states of the continent, were very accurately pourtrayed by Mr. Robinson several years ago, nothing whatever having occurred since to. quaUfy his sketch, viz., — The fonn of South American debates is this: members take their seats, having previously assembled in an ante-room, till a sufficient number is col- lected to constitute what is called a ' sala,' and by us, ' a house.' The govern- ment secretaires or ministers have their respective places, but no vote in the house. The president (or speaker) sits at a table on a platform raised above the level of the room. There is a bell at his right-hand, with which he tinkles to order. He has a secretary on either side of him ; and one or two reporters are seated immediately under him. In some places, the members speak in a sitting position, which, to an Englishman, has an awkward effect. In other places they moimt up into a ' tribuno,' or rostrum. By the former position the graces and vehemence of action are precluded ; and by the latter, not only does action become a mere studied display, but the notion of business is super- seded by the expectancy of a formal oration. We cannot reconcile it lo ourselves in the one case, to see a man sitting and taking his snuff-box out, during the heat of debate (himself being at once the snuffer and the speaker), any more than in the other we can feel ourselves waimed by the over- wrought rapidity of action of a mercurial spirit, or the measured solemnity of a gTave one, putting forth its ebullitions from a box, of which the sides are too high for elbow-room. South American members of parliament, in the exercise of a politeness not in use with ours, do not at once rise to speak, but preface all they have to say with a 'pido la palabra,' that his, ' I desire leave to speak.' The president nods assent. His eye has been caught ; and the honourable member proceeds in a strain, that, in accordance, at first, with the modesty of his appeal, rises by degrees, into such rude charges, and round assertions against his opponents, as to draw from them, long before he has finished, loud and frequent interruptions, much denial of premises, and motioning of the hand and head, as if to say, ' You shall have an answer.' This impatience often proceeds so far, not on the part of the immediate opponent alone, of the speaking member, but of aU who take a different view of the case, that BUENOS AYRES. 285 the president is obliged to tinkle many times the bell by which he calls the members to order before he can procure it ; and no sooner is it procured, than it is again interrupted. There are frequent calls, during the heat of debate, for the ' quarto intermedio,' or quarter of an hour's rest ; and few subjects, in- deed, are ever deemed of interest enough to warrant a prolongation of the morning sitting, which ends at two o'clock p.m., or of the evening one, which closes at nine. In an early congress of Buenos Ayres, some point was dis- cussed of such unusual importance, that at five o'clock in the afternoon the sitting had not come to a close. At this hour, a worthy but rather gastrono- mic member rose and said : ' Gentlemen, I beg you to observe, that if we thus prolong our debates beyond our regular dinner-hour, these political dis- cussions will at last land us in our graves.' He was cheered by all the old doctors present ; and more regular hours were thenceforth observed. Mr. Brotherton would be a well-supported member in the Buenos Ayres House of Commons. The agremens of social life for natives, and, what is still more rare in South American cities, for foreigners, are numerous. Not only are there comfortable Club-Houses, to which they resort in co:i3iderable numbers, but there is the opera for lovers of music ■ — an art, or rather a passion pursued here with even greater devotion than in the rival sister city of the Plate, of which we have spoken in the previous chapter ; but here of course this pas- sion is far more effectually administered to than at Monte Video, because of the presence of a well-supported and very effective lyric corps. As with ourselves at home, to be sure, the opera-house is resorted to not exclusively because of its chromatic or choreo- graphic allurements, but for the fashion of the thing, and, on the part of the male sex, for the sake of the opportunity of witnessing the Buenos Ayrean belles, who, on such occasion, are seen to infinite advantage, probably even more so than on the Prado, in all the magic of mantilla, and that peculiarly bewitching gait they derive from their Andalusian mammas. Much as I had heard before-hand of what Lord Palmerston, in describing aldermen's wives at Lord Mayors' dinners, calls the ' galaxy of beauty ' which assembles in the Buenos Ayrean Opera-House, I was altogether unprepared for the reality ; and certainly I never saw so many charming looking women collected together, especially in a part of the theatre corresponding to our upper boxes, but here nick- named the Hen-Coop, into which sanctum none of the worser half of 28G Bl'EN'DS AY RES, liumanity is admitted any inoro than is the Ix'tter half in tlie Omnibus Box in C(jvcnt Garden, or what used to be sucli wlicu there was a place once known as Her Majesty's Theatre. Unhke our Omnibus Box, however, the Hcn-Coop admits of its occupants beino' seen by the whole house, and the privilege is apparently nn less gratifying to those who dispense than those who participate in it. In the regular dress boxes, ladies and gentlemen mingle as with us: and whether in mien, phvsioo-uomv, or manners, may challenge compai'ison with any audience I have ever seen anywhere. The Bu- enos Ayrean ladies are social and unreserved, without the least degree (if boldness or effrontery : they mix freely with fo- reigners, and go about out of doors without either duenna oi" cavalier ser- vente. The peculiar cus- tom of seeming exclusive- ncss at the tlieatre just alluded to. arises from a wish to go unattended whenever they feel dis- posed, in their regular sit- ting or house dresses, which evince great natural taste and sim- phcity, and not from any wish tn a'\iiid tlie comjiany of the other sex. Coming out of the theatre, tliev are met bv their brothers, parents, or husbands, andwalk home as uncei-emoniously as they go. Among their other accnmjilishments should lie included a pecu- liarly graceful equestrianism, which invariably excites the admi- I'ation of all Europeans in a mai'ked degi'ee, and not the least so of the English, who jau'sue the sports of the turf with the ardour which our ceuntrymen carry witli them for that pastime wherever I]>A AL r-ATT.i:- TITE HALL. BUENOS AYRES. 2S7 tlicy go. The BuoiKis Ayreaii races arc very popular witli the inhabitants ; and in I'cturn their fetes and festivals tind consider- able favour in British eyes.* FIESTAS MAYAS. — 5IAY-DAY IX BUENOS AY'EES. Since the restoration of peace, consequent upon the raising ut the blockade Ijy Urquiza, the trade of Buenos Ayrcs has wonder- fully improved, and not only as regards the exports of the staples of the Plate of which we have already spoken, Ijut in the imports * The Engli,5h and foreign merchants residing in this city have established an English eliib-house, where a limited number of beds is provided for bachelor members. This fme establisliment is conducted by a committee of gentlemen, and contains every possible convenience, including a reading and news-room, as w^ell as one for billiards ; and, in fact, economy, comfort, and every facility of commercial intercourse, have been consulted in all its arrangements. The foreign population of this city includes a ga-eat nmnber of shopkeepers, who fonn quite a little Paris of elegant shojis. Hatmakers, tailors, coiJJ'tnrs^ modistes, and bootmakers predominate amongst the French ; merchants, storekeepers, publicans, and boarding-house keepers amongst the English ; and amongst the Italians warehousemen and captains of small craft trading to the inland ports on the mighty Plata. The immigration of Irish to thisplaee must have been on a very extensive scale, since all the hotel and boarding-houses, which are invariably European, have them in their employ. They are also to be found in great numbers on the farms in the neigh- bourhood of the capital, which are held by Englishmen, and which supply the city regu- larly with butter, eggs, and milk. The difficulty in finding a washerwoman is inde- scribable, and would scarcely be credited. I had to send my sers^ant in all direction before he could find one, and then I discovered that I coidd enlist her in my service only on tliese conditions— first, that I should await her leisure, and next that I should pay a the rate of three or four rovals for each article! — B(meV!. 288 BUENOS ATBES. of all manner of European luxuries;* and the letters that continue to be received here by every mail represent the animation in com- mercial circles as most buoyant.f There is now the greatest rea- son to believe that this state of things will long continue, or at least not be terminated by civil war, notwithstanding the fact of Urquiza having been re-appoLnted President of all the provinces of the Confederation; with the exception of that of Buenos Ayres. Brazil, having effected the tranqudlization of the Banda Oriental, * The remarks made in reference to the description of trade carried on with Monte Video may he considered as applicable in a great degree to Buenos Ayres. The following is the latest published official statement of the imports into the United Kingdom from the Oriental _ Republic in 1851 : — untauned hides, 10,247 cwts. ; seal-skins, 12,008 ; tallow, 8,664 cwts. In the same year the imports from the Argentine Republic were as follows : — imtanned hides, 261,653 ; lamb skins, 55,744 ; nutria skins, 7,417 ; tallow, 135,856 cwts.; wool, 853,194 lbs.; unwrought copper, 127 cwts. ; cot- ton goods, 901. value; India silk handkerchiefs, 432 pieces; brandy, 18 galls.; Spanish wines, 56 galls.; French ditto, 19 galls. ; tobacco, 18 lbs. Buenos Ayres is the great source of our supply of hides, and the quantity of tallow imported thence is only exceeded by the supplies we obtain from Russia and our Australian colonies. The latter source being now closed by war, and likely to be so as long- as the Eastern difficulty continues, our trade with the Plate in that respect becomes of course proportionably important. f In reference to the correspondence between England and the River Plate, Buenos Ayres had long enjoyed considerable advantage over the Uruguay ; but both are now on the same footing in this respect. One great reason of the little interchange of correspondence between Great Britain and Monte Video has been the high rate of postage ; but such cause is now removed by a Treasury ^aiTant, (dated February 24th, 1854,) directmg that on every letter not exceeiHng half an ounce in weight, posted in or ad- dressed to any part of the republic of Uruguay, to or from the British islands and colonies, or transmitted from Uruguay to any foreign country, through England, there shall be charged Is. If the letter exceeds half an ounce in weight, the postage is 2s. ; exceeding one ounce, is. ; exceeding two ounces, 6*. ; exceeding three ounces, 8s. ; and for every ounce above four ounces, two additional rates of postage. Fractions above four ounces to be charged as an additional ounce. Books and magazines to pay the following rates :— not ex- ceeding half a pound in weight, Qd. ; above that weight, \s. per pound, and all fractions charged as an additional pound. The postage must be prepaid m stamps, and the packets must be open at the ends or sides, contain printed matter only, and not exceed twenty-four inches in length, breadth, or depth. Bntish and Uruguayan newspapers may he sent direct to and from the United Kmgdom and the Uruguay at the rate of \d. each. BUENOS AYBES. 289 must of course be equiUy solicitous for the peace of the whole re- gion on either side of the Plate ; and now that the Uruguay is thus effectually closed against the machinations of any of the agi- tators of the Confederation, it is to be presumed that the object for which this country* made such costly but abortive efforts will at length be accomplished, and in a great degree by the instru- mentality that would have been employed there had judicious ad- vice been followed, viz. by the firm mediation of Brazil "While these pages were going through the press, there have occurred, or rather the recollection has been revived, of some cir- cumstances that induce me to supply a few details I did not ori- ginally contemplate. * Our present diplomatic relations with the Disunited Provinces of the Plata are of a peculiarly embarrassing' and uncertain kind, owing to Urquiza being the ostensible head of the Confederation, though not of its most import- ant province, Buenos Ayres. This anomalous state of things long occasioned proceedings on the part of our representative there, Captain R. Gore, R.N., that have naturally and almost unavoidably produced some strong opposition and animadversion. Into the justness of these stiictures it is not the business of the author to inquire; and, accordingly, he contents himself with supplying some few data of the antecedents of the functionaries about to be enumerated. First, the gallant gentleman just named, whose salary as consul-general is 1600Z., with the usual II. per day as charge d'affaires. He is fourth brother of the Earl of Arran, and sat for the borough of New Ross in 1841 and 1847, when he declared himself ' a cordial supporter of the Melbourne ministry,' and an ' advocate for free trade and the aboUtion of monopolies.' He was appointed charge d'affaires and consul-general in the Uruguay in 1846, and transferred to Buenos Ayres in 1851. Our Buenos Ayrean consul, whose salary, I believe, is 600Z., is Mr. M. T. Hood, who was employed for some years in the con- sulate-general at Monte Video, appointed vice-consul there in 1841, acting- consul-general there in 1846, and consul-general at Buenos Ayres in 1847. Our Buenos Ayrean vice-consul is Mr. T. Parish, to whom I shall have to express a sense of my obligations in a subsequent chapter. As regards the diplo- matic representation in this country of the Argentine Confederation, like the Uruguay, and for much the same reason, it is confined merely to the consul- general in London, Mr. George P. Dixon, Great Winchester-street, City, the minister, Don Manuel Moreno, having for some considerable time left Eng- land, where he had resided for many years during the supremacy of Rosas. The consuls and vice-consuls for the Argentine Confederation are Liverpool, Mr. Hugh C. Smith ; Dover, Mr. S. M. Latham ; Falmouth, Mr. Alfred Fox ; Plymouth, Mr. J. Luscombe ; and Glasgow, Mr. George Young. II H, Q II I Z A AND R S A S Tiiouuii on a small scale, the pveeediiis sketches of these remarkable men are excellent likenesses, in either of which the physiognomist and phrenologist may find it difficult to dee'pher attributes that should reconcile the require- ments of science with the characteristics of the individual. First, as regards the elder of the two. Not only did Rosas incur unexampled odium by his cruel- ties in a sphere where what \\ ould be regarded as barbarity elsewhere is looked upon as laudable firmness of disposition, but he enjoyed a reputation for a caustic pleasantry and wit, such indeed as pertained to many of the most remarkable tyrants of all ages, in all parts of the world ; though, perhaps, less so to those of Spanish idiosyncrasy than any others. As he has now been expelled, beyond the possibility of restoration, from the scene of his prolonged enormities, I should not seek to revive the recollection of them, or to dis- turb the quietude of his declining years in his retreat in this country by now adverting to them, were it not that some of the most singular, and, as it was alleged by many of his salaried partizans in Europe at the time, some of the most apocryphal, have suddenly been rehabilitated with indisputable truth, and surrounded with a degree of interest not unworthy of one of M. Dumas' romances, under the circumstances named in the annexed paragraph, which appeared in the leading English journal while these pages were being pre- pared for the press, viz. : — Two more of the 'masliorqueros' have fiecn eomlemiied and shot- a fate they so richly merited, One of them, it is said, confessed to liaving assassinated no less than 21 persons ITRQUIZA AND ROSAS. 291 by the orders of Rosaa, and 19 on his own account. It is said the Governriient isin possession of undoubted proof of the murder of the Euglisli family (Kidd), when Mr. Ouseley was in Buenos Ayres in 1845, by the orders of Eosas ; and that it is their inten- tion to place these proofs before the British Government. This, however, may be aworlc of supererogation, as it is believed here that Mr. Ouseley sent home ample proofs of the facts many years ago, as well as proofs of the deliberate murder of the midshipman Ross some time after. In order to understand the meaning of the strange term used in the first line of the preceding quotation, it may be necessary for the information of the younger reader, — for during Rosas' away the phrase occurred too frequently to need explanation to any one who perused the revolting reports from the Plate — to supply an elucidation. This cannot be better done than in the words addressed by the Uruguayan Agent in this country, General O'Brien, to the. then Secretary of Foreign Affairs, and present Prime Minister of England, in 1844, when seeking British assistance against the Buenos Ayrean oppressor of the Banda Oriental. The General said : — • > The Masorcas, or secret affiliation, in support of Eosas's government, derives its name from the inward stalk of the maize, when deprived of its grain, and has been used by the members of the clubs as an instrument of torture, of which your Lordship may form some idea when calling to mind the agonizing death inflicted upon Edward II. By the mem- bers of this club, assassination of those indisposed to the rule of Eosas was, audaciously, in some instances, covertly in more, constantly exercised. Amongst the victims was Maya, the first benefactor of Eosas. The estates of all who fell by the hands Of the band of Eosas, as well as of those who fled from his vengeance, were seized by him. His ab- solute command of Buenos Ayres, and his possession of the bank, -enabled him to manage the finances of the country, and in 1842 gave to him an army of 10,000 men. Many were collected by fear, from the positive knowledge that, if they did not obey his summons,^ their fate would be similar to that of men who, having refused to join his troops, were, dragged out of their beds at night by members of the Masorca Club, and in the very pre- sence of their wives and children brutally put to death ! Like as it happened with the- early revolutionary armies of France, which had commissioners from the Convention) the soldiers of Eosas were accompanied by individuals of the Masorca Club, and they but too faithfully executed the commission confided to them, depriving the victims of Eosas's vengeance or suspicion of life, amid tortures and cruelties that shock humanity but to hear of them. My Lord, I know of these t^-tures being inflicted. At the time that Oribe invaded the Banda Oriental, with the army and the Masorca commissioners of Eosas, I was residing on my estate in the country. I am aware of wretches being staked into the ground forty-eight hours before their heads were sawed, not cut, ofi'; — of the lasso being flung over persons' necks, and then drawn by a horse at full speed until life became ex. tinct; — of spikes being driven into the mouths of human beings, and they, whilst living, thus nailed to trees. Of the way in which such machinery was capable of being used by such a man as Rosas, we may form an idea from General O'Brien's description of his ■ antecedents : — Eosas is known to me for five-and-twenty years. For his early education he was . indebted to Maza, afterwards president of the Buenos Ayres congress. His calling in life was that of a ' Capataz,' — or care-taker of the property of his relatives, the Anchorenas, and this brought him into constant intercourse with the wild Indian tribes of the Pampas. He ingratiated himself greatly with these tribes, for he not only conformed himself to their habits, but he also won the favour of their Caciques by presents, judiciously distri- buted amongst them. This was his state of life until 1820, when the influence of his kins- men, the Anchorenas, obtained for him the lieutenant-colonelcy of the militia of the fron- V 2 292 URQUIZA AND ROSAS. tiers of the Indian territory. It was then, and not till then, that he appeared as a soldier. It was to aid Martin Rodriguez in a successful revolution; but once the yictory of his friend had been secured, he again retired to the Pampas, put himself in contact with the Patagonian and Pampa Indians, and thus added to his popularity and his influence amongst that savage race of men. Kosas maintained his friendly relations with the In- dians until the civil war, in 1829, in Buenos Ayres. In that war the President Dorrego was shot by Lavalle, and Rosas at once became the head of the party of Dorrego. With the death of Dorrego commence the calamities of that part of the world. The conduct, the bearing, and the demeanour of Rosas, were such as to obtain for him universal appro- bation. He gained in his favour the opinions of the good, whilst he was concocting schemes for winning the bad. He left the society of civilized men, and agam repaired to the Indians. It was under his auspices, it has since been discovered, that the Indians were incited to attack the property of those who were civilized; and their hostility was especially directed by Rosas against all whom he believed would be capable or disposed to resist his attempts at possessing himself of despotic power. He established a camp, which had all the privileges of a sanctuary for every malefactor of every district, from Buenos Ayres to Upper Peru and the Cordilleras of tbe Andes. His protectorate of crime was not avowed, but it was actively exercised. It shielded the criminal from the punish- ment of man, and it won impunity by the perpetration of new atrocities upon all who were suspected by Rosas. Between 1829 and 1833, Rosas laid the foundation for that despotism which he has since exercised. The means he employed were worse even than the object itself, for they consisted in ' the organization of a band of assassins.' I assure your lordship there is not the slightest exaggeration in the phrase. A French writer whom we shall again have occasion to quote at the con- clusion of this chapter, in explanation of the causes which lead to that indif- ference to the lives of others which distinguishes the guachos, describes a characteristic trait of Rosas, which it is necessary to understand, viz. — Every one who has visited the provinces of La Plata, and has written about General Rosas, has spolien of his energy, his patience, his cleverness, and his cruelty ; but there is that in him which is paramount to all his other qualities, and which may be said to be the most prominent trait of his character, and that is his science in mendacitj', his skill in working out, even to a most perfect system — a gigantic scheme of lying. It is an accomplishment in which he never has been equalled, and never can be surpassed. It would be difficult to convey an idea of the degree to which this faculty has been de- veloped in the dictator of Buenos Ayres. The only explanation of his being pennitted to exercise power for such a length of time, is to be found in this instrument of action, and which he has employed at aU times and ifi all places with a perseverance that can- not but excite our wonder. Are the acts of his government denounced to the mdignation of Europe, he audaciously denies them even to the very face of tliose who have been eye- witnesses to them. Is an accusation preferred against himself, he instantly turns it against his adversaries, and unceasingly pursues them with it before the entire world ; and this he does by means of his journal printed in three languages, with which he in- undates the American continent, and which his agents sedulously circulate in every part of Europe. Sustained by a dogged obstinacy which defies all obstacles, nothing can make him deviate from the course he has marked out for himself, and unscrupulous as to the means, he knows that time and patience will effect for him all that he desires. In this respect Rosas has been perfectly consistent. At the moment in which he consecrated in his own person a government essentially Unitarian, by effacing even the last traces of a federation, he compelled the population, upon pain of death, to cry out, ' Long live the Federation 1' The same day, on which he substituted his own nill for all the codes of the republic, he caused himself to be saluted with the title of 'restorer of the laws!' Whilst his portrait was publicly incensed in the churches, and received, by his order, divine honours, he invoked the vengeance of heaven upon the impious Unitarians who dany offend the Almighty. When, in fine, he let loose, m the broad day, into the streets CRQUIZA AND ROSAS 293 of Bdenos Ayrea, bands of assassins, who massacred the population, he could not find tears enough to deplore 'this unhappy popular ebullition, which made his paternal heart bleed I' We do not believe tliat hypocrisy and audacity ever reached to such an extreme degree of shameless impudence. It was thus that Europe was misled as to the real character of the events that occurred, and that it accustomed itself to consider as the representative of peace, and as the protector of order, commerce, and civilization, the man who has never ceased for eighteen years to be on the banks of La Plata, the element of sanguinary wars, of crimes, and of violence of every kind. Reverting to the case of the Kidd Family, their murder was one of the most atrocious on record in any age or any country, considering, first, the number, ages, and utter inoifensiveneas of the victims ; secondly, the rank, motive, and perfidiousness of the assassin ; and, thirdly, the want of pubhc virtue or spirit to resent it among the community in the midst of whom it was perpetrated, but who liad been so subdued by such deeds amongst themselves as actually to affect indignation that strangers should name the culprit. The object of Rosas was, under the pretext of popular hatred of foreigners, on ac- count of the policy that was being pursued by the British Government, to strike terror into the English residents in the province and city of Buenos Ayres ; so that this terror, reacting on the diplomatist, or at least upon the English cabinet, which it is now notorious that it unfortunately did, might lead to a change in the course so obnoxious to the Dictator, because so fatal to his power of desolating the Uruguay. The Kidds were a higUy respectable English, or rather Scotch, family who resided on an estancia a short distance from the city of Buenos Ayres, engaged, as they had been for several years, in the rearing of cattle, and neither interfering, nor being accused of interfering, in the political disputes of the country in the smallest possible degree. They were nine in number — ^from the aged grandfather, to the infant in arms. These were found one morning with their throats cut in the most barbarous and revolting, yet deliberate, manner ; their bodies ranged along the iioor ; and, in the case of two young girls about fifteen or sixteen, and remarkable for the luxuriance of their hair, their tresses were brought round the head, and tied in fantastic knots in the gashes in their throats. That the object of this bloody business was not plunder was obvious from the circumstance of there not being a particle of property removed, or the least disturbance of the furniture, and also from the ferocious mockery of decency exhibited in the orderly adjustment of the bodies. Of course it made a vast sensation, and it was intended that it should do so. But Rosas little calculated how completely the tables were about to be turned upon him, and how the engineer would be hoisted with his own petard. Every man, woman, and child in Buenos Ayres knew that the deed had been done by Rosas' directions, and his ' Mashorqueros ' brigands boasted of it as the crowning audacity of their master, and one that would soon bring the English minister to his senses. The blow, however, had hardly been struck when it recoiled upon the author. Sir W. G. Ouseley immediately offered the sum of ten thousand doUars for the detection of the murderers ; and, inviting the cooperation of all who abhorred the crime to aid in augmenting the reward for the discovery of its perpetrators, carried the list to Rosas himself, and demanded that he and his daughter, Donna Manueleta, •294 URQUIZA AND R0SA8. should head it t Of course refusal was impossible, without an open avowal of his guilt, about which no one entertained, or could entertain, a doubt. Ac- cordingly, forth there came, the following morning, and daily for a long time afteiTvards, the names of Rosas and the British minister, and of many British inhabitants, stigmatising the outrage, and invoking vengeance on the monsters who had effected it. But mark the result. Not only was there no detection, but not a single Buenos Ayrean citizen, or , a single person in any way amenable to the power of Kosas, put down his name for a solitary rial, or was heard to whisper a syllable of desire that the assassins should be brought to justice. But there was no hope of anything of the kind, nor would there ever have been as long as Rosas remained in the position he was at the time of that viUany, as weU as the subsequent one alluded to in the extract, and which was more the prompting of baffled spite ag-ainst the British minister, than with the least idea it could have had any effect of the kind intended in the direction where the Kidd massacre had so signally failed. But 'murder, though it hath no tongue, will speak with most miraculous organs ; ' and certainly a more strange one could hardly be than that of a ' mashorquero ' implicating Rosas in one of the greatest enormities of this age, and while yet there is proof sufficient to make its truth apparent even to those whom the Dictator had persuaded he was the victim of foreign calumny. He tried this sanguinary strategy with considerable success, on the occasion of the French intervention in Buenos Ayrean affairs, in 1842, and likewise practised it against some British subjects, as in the case of the midshipman alluded to in the extract from the Times, and also in the still more ferocious one of the murder of Lieut. Wardlaw, the depositions of the boat's crew, who saw him foully butchered, when landing on the Rosista territory under a flag of truce, having been pjib- hshed in full detail in the English papers soon afterwards. But enough, and more than enough, of Rosas. Turning now to his former friend and sometime successor. General Urquiza. Although he has been expelled from Buenos Ayres, yet, in consequence of his having been again rechosen as President of the Confederation by all the other provinces, as well also as continuing in the position he had filled for many years as President of his native province of Entre Rios, there is little doubt that he is destined to play again a conspicuous part on the stage of South American politics, espe- cially should there be a separation of the states into distinct and independent governments, or minor confederacies, as has frequently been proposed, and to which the position and vast extent of these regions point as a prudent com-se, ]3articularly now that Buenos Ayres may be regarded as having virtually and practically ceased to be a component part of the Argentine republic. I have thought it may not be uninteresting to the English reader to furnish some particulars of this remarkable man, and for that purpose have subjoined a con- densed translation of a little work that has attained a great circulation in South America. It is entitled ' Seis Dias con el General Urquiza, que com- prenden Muchas Noticias Sobre su Persona. El esclaroie miento de hechos importantes. Y Algunos Datos Sobre la Situacion Actual de la Provincia de Entre-Rios.' It will be seen that it is the production of a great admirer of Urquiza, and on that score will be received with due qualification, which mustj , ' ' ITBQUIZA. AND ROSAS. 295 be further extended to the style of the writer, whose grandiloquent idiom has been preserved with some closeness in the translation. The princi- pal reason, however, for giving the annexed data is because of the pic- ture afforded of the private life of a South American chief, and, incidentally, of society in portions of that country hitherto undescribed by English travel- lersv I will only preface these memoranda by saying that Urquiza is now about 54 years of age, abstains from wine and tobacco, and though a great admirer of beauty is still a bachelor. Since 1840 he has been president of Entre Rios, and sided with Rosas during the civil war of Lavelle and Rivera, the latter of whom he routed at the battle of Inda Muerta, in 1846. At last perceiving that the interest of Ms own state was highly prejudiced by the conduct of Rosas in excluding it from all access to the ocean, he seized the opportunity when Rosas annually resigned the presidency of the Confederation to accept such resignation, thereby depi'iving the dictator of the legal authority longer to represent and conduct the foreign relations of the Confederation. He then joined Brazil in driving Rosas and Oribe out of the Uruguay, and subsequently out of Buenos Ayres, of which he became president, and was himself in turn ejected from that city and state, under the circumstances already detailed. In the translation the lise of the first personal pronoun has been retained : SIX DAYS WITH GENERAL UUaUIZA. I arrived at the General's residence, which is eighteen leagues from the village of Gualegachu, on the left hank of the river of that name; and, to my surprise, about that magnificent country house, where I expected to find a mili- tary encampment, full of officers, soldiers, and men in the service of the re- nowned champion of Entre-Rios, a profound silence reigned, interrupted only by the blows of the axe of a rustic, who was working upon some trees. I alighted, and entered the house. At the door of one of the apartments stood a man whom I at once recognized as the General, having seen him in the Oriental Republic twenty years before. I knew him because his visage was not changed, and not because his dress manifested anything by which I might recognise him as the supreme chief of the province of Entre-Rios. I took oft my hat, but he immediately bade me follow him, and put his hand on the neck of a mastiff, which was lying at his feet. This animal is the famous Purvis,* the only sentinel and companion General Ur^uiza has in a spacious edifice in which five hundred persons can accommodate themselves. His only attendants are an old man who serves him, and a coloured woman who attends to the apartments, where they receive the persons who daily arrive to see the Gene- ral, some in the public service, but the greater part with private objects. Some other men have occupations in the house, in the labours of his beautiful gar- den, and in the indispensable services of a country mansion, where there reign order and the most admirable economy. The General made me sit down, and asked me some q^uestions, which inspired me with confidence, at the same that his presence imposed respect. He was dressea rather negKgently, covered with a light poncho of the finest vicuna, and wearing a hat of white cloth, with a coloured ribbon, which is distinctive of the Eutre-Riano army. I saw hiTa in the same dress all the time that I was with him. He has very little beard, nor does he wear the moustache, so general among the military, and stUl worn by the peasants; but he does not lose thereby the aspect of a warrior. He is of a very robust constitution, has a broad and extremely prominent chest, and is altogether a remarkably well-formed man. His face preserves aU the fresh- ness of youth, although, in my judgment, he must have been born at the com- mencement of the century. He is of moderate stature, and slightly inclined to corpulence. His complexion is fair, but its bloom has been somewhat dai'k- ened by the sun during his military career. All his features are full of ex- pression. His mouth is smaD, his teeth good, his eyes of a clear grey colour, and fuU of fire and vivacity. They are unsteady when he speaks, fixing them- selves on every object around him, especially when he refers to any act of ex- treme severity. His hair is black, and begms to fall off his clear unwrinkled forehead. His manners are frank, jovial, and cheerful, so that he predisposes in his favour all who approach him. 'Why,' he inquired, after a brief pause, 'have you come to this countiy after having been associated with the foreigners, who have deceived you all, and prolonged a war which ought to have been by this time concluded Y ' It is true, sir,' I replied, ' but past events linked themselves by degrees, and the torrent of successes has led us'— ' Stop! you must not say that the torrent * A present probably from the English admu-al of that name. ANECDOTES OP GENERAL UBQtJIZA. 297 of succeasea has precipitated it; you must say that it deceived you, for men of ideas and education do not permit themselves to be led with the multitude, who observe nothing. The Monte Videans have not comprehended their own interests; they ought long since to have settled that unfortunate question, in which so much blood has been shed, and I am persuaded, if such were the case, things would go on well, and the Orientals would not see their country des- troyed.' With these words, he rose, and went out, leaving me quite alone ; so I be- gan my toilette, and had the comb in my hand when he returned. ' You do well to adorn yourself, because you are so ugly,' said he, in so affable and fa- miliar a tone that it inspired me with complete confidence, for I was already aware that such is his manner when he receives a person with pleasure and good-will. I replied that, at least, I had not a crooked nose, a phrase which General Urquiza often uses, and applies to military cowards and men of small mental capacity. It is the familiar expression which he employs to manifest the contempt which a person deserves from him. Dinner was now announced, and he invited those who were present to dine with him. His table is plain, but abundant; he eats very little meat, and does not drink wine or any kind of liquors; neither does he smoke or take snuff. His principal food, during the sis days that I was with him, was roast chicken; at supper he eats very little, and chiefly pastry, with the object, as he says, of taking a little water. After dinner, he remains long at the table, and talks of the events of his youth, particularly of the period when, as representative of the people, he manifested his firmness in opposing anarchy, and had to endure a thousand vicissitudes, by which his life was often in danger, having once been ordered to be shot, and owed his escape to providential causes. He speaks very often of recent events, which he details with so much exactitude that he does not forget the most trifling incident. He never forgets the name or the features of any per- son he has once seen. He relates the events of the war with an impartiality which does him honour, since he has been so conspicuous an actor in many of them. 'Do not believe,' he said to me one day, 'that I fail to recognise the tendencies of the political parties who have fought for so long a time. On both sides there have been errors, but the Monte Videans have lost by com- mitting themselves to the drowsiness brought on by foreign intervention, and those foreigners have not comprehended what would be beneficial to their in- terests; in my judgment, they have done the contrary of what they ought to have done. There was that unfortunate General LavaUe, whom I have liked, notwithstanding that he sullied the lustre of his services by serving under the Governor Dorrego ; he ruined himself by wishing to combat me without un- derstanding the revolution. I wished to draw him from the way of his destruc- tion, and to bring him to Entre-Rios, for he was a virtuous man ; but he refused my oifers, because his political friends at that moment surrounded him. I did all I could for him, but my duty was to conquer him. 1 detested the disloyalty of some of his officers, who treacherously abandoned him, dividing one part of his army from the other, after the battle of Tucuman, and who came to Cor- rientes, passing through the Great Chaco. There is in Entre-Rios an officer •who was faithful, who did not abandon him after the defeat of Famalla, and ■ggg ANECDOTES OP GENERAL URQUIZA. ivbo accompanied him raitil bh death. This individual is commendable for hia loyalty, and I assure you that I esteem him. The Monte Videans have much reproached me for the death of Carlos Paz, whom, after the battle of Vences, I made a prisoner, and sent to be shot; but he deserved death, for he was a traitor, who was betraying the Madariagas, and afterwards betrayed me. He placed himself in communication with me, supplying me with important in- formation as to the state of the Corrientine army, and certainly he was not de- ceiving me. He did more stUl ; he assured me that he would not make use of the artillery that he was commanding, if it arrived at the commencement of a battle. But he probably repented his perfidy, for he ceased all corre- spondence ivith me, and on the day of the battle, confiding in the superiority of the forces of Madariaga, and in the elements of defence which they had concentrated in the formidable position of the potrero of Vences, the artillery which he was commanding opened a deadly lire upon my infantry. Colonel Saavedra also perished after the victory : the unliappy man, when he already Lad in his hands the guarantees which I had sent Mm, was surprised by a force of Corrientines, whose officer beheaded him. I regret his death, but his imprudence deserved it. Thus it is that my enemies, without investigating the circumstances of the deeds, represent me as a terrible man, and write a thousand injurious censures against me.' On another occasion, the General, speaking of the press of Monte Video, referred to the time when Rivera Indarte used to conduct the ' National,' and reproved the mean publications and immoral doctrines of that epoch. ' In the battle of Pago Largo,' said he, ' Baron Astrada met with his death, and, ac- cording to my enemies, I was the cause of it, and likewise of that which was done to his corpse — stripping off part of the skin of the body ; and it was also published in Monte Video that I made a horsecloth of it, and presented it to General Eosas. Abominable lie ! Of that skin nothing has been made, for it is not long since that it was preserved in Gualeguachu, in the house of D. N., in the wardi'obe. Baron Astrada died in Pago Largo, as many othei-s died, in the retreat, and the skin was drawn off from the neck to the shoulders, the first notice of which was given to me by M. Asumbrulla, a Brazilian, who was commissioned by General Bentos Gonzalez, a relative of General Echague, who was with me on the second or tUrd day of the battle. There was a young soldier passing near us, at the sight of whom the Brazilian ex- claimed, " See that ; see that." I fixed my eyes on the soldier, but could not recognize in him anything that should call forth the exclamation, until the Brazilian said to me, " The thing which that soldier carries hanging from the neck of liis horse is the skin of the Governor of Corrientes." I called the soldier immediately, to inform myself of the deed.' The General was going to continue this narration, when a peasant entered. ' What a strange coin- cidence,' said the General ; ' here you see him who drew off the skin of Baron A.i-.rada. Wlio drew off the sidn of the Governor of Corrientes ?' he en- quired. ' I, sir,' rephed the peasant. ' And who commanded you to do it ? ' I say no more, sir.' ' And wliat did I tell you when I called you to ask what it was you can-ied on the neck of your horse ?' ' That I could not deny that I was an assassin, and that I would have been rewarded by being shot, but ANECDOTES OF GENERAL UBQUIZA. 299 that I was very young.' • And why did you declare in the Banda Oriental that I had commanded the act ?' . ' Because General Nunez, who then served with Rivera, told me that unless I declared that it was your Excellency who had stripped the skin ofi the Governor of Corrientes, I should be shot ; and because I did not wish to die, I told an untruth, and said that your Excellency had commanded me.' ' And why did you declare the same afterwards m ■Monte Video ?' ' Because I apprehended that sometliing would happen to me.' ' Well,' said the General, addressing liimself to me, ' you may now perceive that this hoy is a knave, who has been amongst the uncultivated Unionites until he implored my pardon, and I granted it. You now know the history of a deed which has been attributed to me, when I have not had the slightest part in it. It has also been written that I commanded all the boys who were made prisoners at Pago Largo to be destroyed. This is false : the prisoners whom we made in that victory were not sacrificed, althougli it is true that some were executed by the order which I gave, for which I had just and powerful reasons. After the defeat, the infantry of the Corrientines retired, but I followed them with the cavalry that I was commanding, for Don Pascual Echague was then general-in-cliief. I was commencing active hostilities in the retreat, when, seeing themselves lost, they wished to surren- der, but asked for guarantees before they laid down theu- arms, I imm;- diately sent them to them, but the officer who carried them was kOled by the very men who wished to capitulate. The second time the same thing was done, and I then gave more rigorous orders. They began to separate, and to seek the mountains near hand, but all were made prisoners, and consequently I had to chastise the perfidy. The investigation made resulted m the disco- very of those who were the authors of the murders, and those only I com- manded to be shot. This is the truth ; and if my enemies and the Monte Videans have said to the contrary, and have written slanders against me, I look upon them with scorn. There has been here one of those who in Monte Video was a fabricator of impostures, who used to say that I was a Gauclio, and my mother a Cliinese woman. I have had him in my presence, and I have asked him if I really was a Gauoho, and why he was guilty of such falsehoods ; and, as is natural, he found himself confounded, without knowing what to say in reply. This individual is now in Entre-Rios, and has no reason to repent having come, for I have done something for him, as I do for all who come to this country. After this conversation, the General retired, and I remained alone, medi- tating upon what I had heard. The account which he had given me of the unfortunate Baron Astrada was to me interesting, for it removed from my mind the error under which I was labouring until that moment, and I saw with satisfaction General Urquiza exonerated from an atrocious act. When Generpl Urquiza speaks of deeds such as those which I have here detailed, he gives to his voice an accent, and to his action an expression, so vivid, that it impresses on his words the seal of truth, and manifests, to who- ever observes him, that he is not one of those men who, because they have power, hold in contempt the judgment of their cotemporaries. General Urquiza likes to preserve a good reputation, and has resnect for public opinion. 300 ANECDOTES OP GBNEBAL UEQTTIZA He prefers to govern from retirement to being surrounded by tbe trophies of his victories and the insignia of his power. Morality and education are his special care, and a magnificent edifice is being erected under his directions, to be called the Entre-Riano College Nothing proves more completely that the tendencies of General Urquiza are towards progress than the interest which he takes in the education of the people. Education is completely disseminated, and the most convenient system for accelerating the progress of early instruction has been adopted. There is ao country district which has not a school sustained by the treasury of the pro- vince, to which fathers are under the obligation of sending their sons. These estabKshments are independent of those that are in all the towns, and are under the immediate supervision of the local magistrates. Their purpose is the uistruction of those children whose parents live in the scattered villages, far away from the towns. With this system there wUl, in a short time, be few persons destitute of the rudiments of education. ' Entre-Rios,' said General Urquiza one day, ' receives all men, whatever may be their origin, their opinions, and theu- political antecedents ; they will be respected, and even favoured, if their tendencies are towards goodness, and they do not interfere in our affau's. I wish from those who come to this land only respect for the established authorities, and the observance of the laws. The Unionites, French, English, aU may come to Entre-Rios, to pass through our villages, to cross over our country in all directions, and to esta- blish themselves where they wish, in the assurance that they will not hear a single voice raised against them which might cause the slightest offence. I wish to be at peace with all, and ■rtU provoke no one ; but he that incites me will find me disposed to fight in defence of my country. The Entre-Riano army is valiant, and has proved itself capable of great things, and I have great confidence in its valour and its enthusiasm.' ,,' The army of Entre-Rios embraces from nine to ten thousand men of the , /'three arms, but its principal force consists in the cavalry. Tliis is composed of eleven divisions, corresponding to the departments into which the province is divided, which, although I have no data upon the extent of the territory of Entre-Rios, ought, I think, to comprise a little more or less than 5,000 square leagues. The cavalry, m times of peace, is completely liberated, and a por- tion is employed in the police of the departments. When the army returns from any campaign, it lays down its arms and disbands, with the understand- ing that, at the slightest rumour of a military summons, they are to present themselves with their uniforms, and the cavah-y with their horses. It is an undoubted fact that, in six or seven days after the issue of the iirst order from the General's quarters, for the reunion of the army, it can be completely re- united, armed, clothed, perfectly equipped, and in readiness to march, so that General Urquiza, with the Entre-Riano army, can be in front of the city of Monte Video in twenty or twenty-two days after issuing the first orders for its reunion, notwithstanding the difficulties presented by the majestic river Uruguay. With such troops it is not strange that General Urquiza should have obtained such signal victories. ' The battle- of Veuces,' said the General, ' is an afi'air wMch loes "-reat ANECDOTES OF GENEEAL UBQUIZA. 30 L honour to the Entre-Riano army, which had to combat powerful enemies, and yet penetrated to where the Corrientinea were not expecting it. They were astonished and terrified at the courage of my soldiers, who penetrated tlu-ough immense morasses and difficulties which the enemies placed in their way ; and I can assure you that I myself was astonished by the magnitude of the dangers which we encountered, and the obstacles which we overcame. This daring gave us the victory, as the army of Madariaga was superior to mine in its number, and particularly in infantry and artillery.' On another occasion, the General entertained me with interesting details of the campaign in the Oriental Republic, in which he manifested a degree of activity and skill which has done him great credit, for, though he had to combat in a land unknown to liim, the victory was his, and was a work exclusively of his own inspiration. These details convince me that the General is a man of great penetration, and of elevated capacity, so that he has been known to foresee many events which have prolonged the war, and upon which he looks as the origin of many evils. ' I have the satisfaction of knowing,' he observed, ' that the army of Entre- Rios has been a model of morality and subordination, and that there have been few complaints of it. I have acted throughout from conviction, and the pub- lic accounts will show that I have not taken a single dollar for my own use, not even the pay to which my rank of general entitled me. On the contrary, the treasury of the province is indebted to me in the sum of 30,000 dollars, the amount of debts contracted in the public service, and which I have yet to pay. From the Oriental country I have brought nothing but compromises and this dog,' pointing to the mastiff, Purvis, which was lying at his feet. ' It is true he is a wicked animal, for he respects no one but me, and even those who feed him are not certain that he wUl not leave his food to bite them ; but in me he seems to recognize a certain superiority. He has his history and his instincts which I cannot comprehend, and which no one will ever be able to explain. He belonged to Colonel Galazza, but suddenly attached himself to me, and would not be driven away. Seeing the pertinacity with which he persisted in following me, I allowed him to remain, and he has never left me since, running by the side of my horse throughout the campaigiis of the Banda Oriental and Corrientes. He manifests no terror under iire, and when struck by a spent cannon-ball at India Muerto, and hui'led several yards from me, he quickly recovered his legs, and resumed his post by my side ! ' The superficial character of Entre Rios bemg that of an extensive plain, watered by numerous rivers, and affording excellent and abundant pasture for cattle, not equal to that of the beautiful territory of the Oriental repubhc, but superior to that of the province of Buenos Ayres, General ITrquiza is so sensible of the advantage of promoting the breeding of, cattle that he will not permit the killing of cows ; but this prohibition is not absolute, depending on the number belonging to each individual; and wlule far from being a real grievance to the land-owners, it wiU tend to greatly increase the wealth and importance of the country. This is the general's great aim, his whole pohcy being du'ected to the development of the natural resources of the country. 302 LIFE IN THE PAMPAS. The JFrequent allusions in the foregoing to the sanguinary practices pursued by rival chiefs against each other suggests the desirability of endeavouring to account for the creation and growth of the disposition to which such ferocity is attributable. We cannot do better than quote the word^ of M. Chevaliei- de St. Robert, a Frenchman, ofScially engaged in the afl'airs of the Plate, who, in his pamphlet, entitled ie General Rosas ef la Question de la Plata, and translated by M'Cabe, the late Acting Consul-General for the Uruguay in London, gives probably the best account anywhere to be met with of life in the wilds, in this region of the world, and of the mode in which such life affects humanity in the cities afterwards. He says : — The population of the Pampas have a peculiar physiognomy, such as is to be found in no other part of the ivorld. They exhibit the instincts and the faculties which the desert every where developes, but still they have not those traits which elsewhere parti- cularise a pastoral or a warlike tribe. The Arab, who dwells or wanders in the deserts of Asia, is but a fraction of that great Mahommedan society that dwells in cities. The tribe coincides with society in many things, it has the same creed, the same obedience to re- ligious dogmas, and preserves every where the same traditional organization. There is nothing like this to be found in the Pampas. In the bosom of those immense plains, which extend from Salta to the Cordilleras, that is, over a space of more than seven hun- dred leagiies, there are to be found neither distinct castes, nor tribes, nor creeds, nor even that which may be properly called a nation. There is nothing to be found but estancias (farms) scattered here and there, which form so many petty republics, isolated from the rest of the world, living by themselves, and separated from each other by the desert. Alone in the midst of those over whom he is a complete master, the estaiiciero is out of every kind of society whatsoever, with no other law than that of force, with no other rules to guide him but those that are self-imposed, and with no other motive to influence him than his own caprice. There is nothing to disturb his repose, to dispute his powei;, or interfere with his tranquillity except the tiger that may Im-k about his grounds, or the wild Indians that may occasionally make a hostile incursion on his domains. His children and his domestics, ffauchoslike himself, pass the same sort of life, that is to say, without ambition, without desires, and without any species of agricultural labour. All they have to do is to mark and to kill, at certain periods, the herds of oxen and flocks of sheep which constitute the fortune of the estancierOj and that satisfy the wants of all. Purely carnivorous, the gaucho's only food consists of flesh and water — bread and spirituous liquors are as much unknoivn to him as the simplest elements of social life. In a country in which the only wealth of the inhabitants arises from the incessant destruction of innumerable flocks, it can be easily understood how their sanguinary occupation must tend to obliterate every sentiment of pity, and induce an indifl^erence to the perpetration of acts of cruelty. The readiness to shed blood— a ferocity which is at the same time obdurate and brutal — constitutes the prominent feature in the character of the pure gaucho. The first instrument that the infantile hand of the gaucho grasps is the knife — the first things that attract his attention as a child, are the poirring out of blood, and the palpitating flesh of expiring animals. From his earliest years, as soon as he is able to walk, he is taught how he may with the greatest skill approach the living beast, hough it, and if he has the sti-ength, kill it. Such are the sports of his childhood — ^he pursues them ardently, and amid the approving smiles of his family. As soon as he acquires sufficient strength, he takes part in the labours of the estancia ; they are the sole arts he has to study, and he concentrates all his intellectual powers in mastering them. From that time forth he arms himself with a large knife, and for a single moment of his life he never parts with it. It is to his hand an additional limb^ he makes use of it always, in all cases, in every circumstance, and constantly with wonderful skiU and address. The same knife that in the morning had been used to CHARACTERISTICS OP THE PAMPAS. 303 slaughter a bullock, or to kill a tiger, aids him in the day time to cut his dmner, and at night to carve out a skin tent, or else to repair his saddle, or to mend his mandoline. With the gaucho the knife is often used as an argument in support of his opinions. In the midst of a conversation apparently carried on in amity, the formidable knife glitters on a sudden in the hands of one of the speakers, the ponchos are rolled around the left arm, and a conflict commences. Soon deep gashes are seen on the face, the blood gushes forth, and not unfrequently one of the combatants falls lifeless to the earth ; but no one thinks of interfering with the combat, and when it is over the conversation is resumed as if nothing extraordinary had occurred. No person is disturbed by it — not even the women, who remain as cold unmoved spectators of the affray I It may easily be sur- mised what sort of persons they must be, of which such a scene is but a specimen of their domestic manners. Thus the savage education of the estancia produces in the gaucho a complete indifference as to human life, by familiarizing him from his most tender years to the contemplation of a violent death, whether it is that he inflicts it on another or receives it himself. He lifts his knife against a man with the same indifiference that he strikes down a bullock : the idea which everywhere else attaches to the crime of homicide does not exist in his mind ; for in slaying another he yields not less to habit than to the impulse of his -mii and barbarous nature. If, perchance, a murder of this kind is committed so close to a town that there is reason to apprehend the pursuit of justice, every one is eager to favour the flight of the guilty person. The fleetest horse is at his service, and he departs certain to find wherever he goes the favour and sympathy of all. Then, with that marvellous instinct which is common to all the savage races, he feels no hesitation in venturing into the numerous plains of the pampas. Alone, in the midst of a boundless desert, and in which the eye strains itself in vain to discover a boundary, he advances without the slightest feeling of uneasiness — he does so watching the course of the stars, listening- to the winds, watching, interrogating, discovering the cause of the slightest noise that reaches his ears, and he at length arrives at the place he sought, without ever straying for it, even for a moment. The lasso which is rolled around his horse's neck : the holm suspended to his saddle, and the inseparable knife suffice to assure hira food, and to secure him against every danger — even against the tiger. When he is hungry, he selects one out of the herd of beeves that cover the plain, pursues it, lasso^ it, kills it, cuts out of it a piece of flesh, which he eats raw, or cooks, and thus re- freshes himself for the journey of the following day. If murder be a common incident in the life of a gaucho, it often also becomes the means to him of emerging from obscurity, and of obtaining renown amongst his associates. When a gaucho has rendered himself remarkable by his audacity and address in single combats, companions gather around him, and he soon finds himself at the head of a considerable party. He ' commences a campaign,' sets himself in open defiance to the laws, and in a short time acquires a cele- brity which rallies a crowd about hira. UP THE PARANA. CHAPTER Xlir. UP THE PARANA. Preparations for an experimental trip up the Parana.^Captain Sullivan's descent of the river at a terrific pace. — Island of Martin Garcia. — Note on the confluents of the Eio Plata. — A Scotch experimental philosopher in Corrientes. — Alluvial deposits at the delta of the Parana. — Signs of progress in the interior. — An American pioneer of civilization. — The steamer aground, and fired upon. — Moonlight on the river and the woods. — Geographical note on the Parana and the Rio Plata. — Obligado and San Nicolas. — Mr. Mackinnon's description of the scenery. — Arrival at Rosario. — Multifarious applications of hides and horns. — ^Descent of the river, and arrival at Martin Garcia. — Corrientes and the guachos.; — Military system of the country. — Its evil effects on the morals and industry of the people. — Grazing capabilities of Corrientes. — Facilities and prospects for com- merce. — Interest of the Platine provinces in the opening of the river to foreign trade. — Difficulties of the navigation, and a word about the Uruguay. The important light in which England, and, yet more especially, those portions of England to whose mercantile wants the company I represented administer, regarded the opening of the great con- _ fluents of the Plate, particularly those leading to the famed fairy- land of Paraguay, so long guarded by the wondrous Ogre, Francia, naturally rendered me anxious to follow, for however trifling a distance, in the wake the French and British minis- ters had so lately pursued towards the capital of that mystic country which, after almost half a century's total isolation from the rest of the world, they have brought into commercial relation- ship with Europe. Accordingly, though not contemplating any- thing of the kind on leaving Liverpool, I gladly availed myself 306 UP THE PARANA. of certain favourable circumstances that turned up somewhat un- expectedly, to make a short experimental trip up the Parana, as far as the towns of San Nicolas and Rosario, although for so doing time was very short, as the Argentina had to be back at Monte Video to meet the Brazileira, expected out from Liverpool, via Rio Janeiro, on the 28th or 29th of September. The com- manders of H.M. ships Vixen and Locust gave us valuable infor- mation, and kindly recommended an experienced pilot, whom I engaged. The British Vice-consul at Buenos Ayres, Mr. Parish — a name of long-recOgnized Anglo influence in those regions, as the mention of his relative, the veteran Sir Woodbine, and of his relatives, Messrs. Parish Robinson, the authors of the delightful ' Letters from Paraguay,' will sufficiently vouch — also obUged us with the loan of some admirable charts published under sanction of the Admiralty, from surveys made by Captain Sullivan of H.M. ship Philomel, and these, so far as our observation extended, proved to be wonderfully correct.* Of course, in an extensive navigation of this kind, with shifting sands, there will be occasion- ally variations of depth of water, but nothing to alter the general character of the survey, or the correctness of the gallant officer's explorations and soundings. We left Buenos Ayres at 1 p.m. on the 21st, with a pleasant party on board, and steamed across to Martin Garcia, where the navigation becomes difficult, and the channel very narrow. This rather large island, composed of granite rocks with a good elevation, and entirely commanding the * Speaking- of the descent of the river, at a terrific pace, hy the Alecto Commander M'Kinnon, in his work ' Steam Warfare on the Parana,' to which reference has already been made, says:— There was only one person in South America who had either the nerve, knowledge, or ability to do it. It is natural to suppose that this person must have been a native of the country, brought up on the river, and who had spent a long and active life in getting such a thorough aud precise knowledge. With pride do I say it, this was not the case. The pilot was a brother officer, Captain B. J. Sulhvan, who coolly stood on the paddle-box, and conned the vessel by a motion of his hand to the quarter-master. The whole of the river, up to Corrientes, is now surveyed by the above-mentioned ofRcer, and better known, by his means, in London, than at Rosas' capital, Buenos Ayres, UP THE PARANA. 307 channel of the great rivers, has long been a disputed point among the belligerents in the Plate, and among the diplomatists on paper, for only lately has the free navigation of the rivers been recog- nized ; but a good deal of ill-feeling still exists .with reference to its possession, belonging, as it does, ostensibly to Buenos Ayres, though it is stated that, if everyone had their own, it is really the property of an individual from whom it was forcibly taken, on the principle so very extensively practised in this quarter of the globe, that might gives right, and that there is nothing wrong but the want of means to defend it. One thing is certain, that whoever holds Martin Garcia will control the entrance to and exit from the whole stream above it ;* for, as the only navigable channel runs close past it, there is no possible means of escaping the guns of its batteries. Thus, it is obvious, that the future progress of com- merce up these immense rivers, as also, in a very great degree, the well-being of the countries watered by them, is really de- pendent on the way in which this important point is disposed of. * The author on whom we have so frequently drawn for facts and illustra- tions, seems to attach greater moment to Corrientes, speaking of which he says, ' There is more of a military authority combined with usual duties of a Captain of the Port in Sputh America than is exercised by our Harbour Master, giving him some of tlie powers of a commandant. The existence of regularly organized ports of entry for foreign vessels so far up the river (and there are others much higher up the Parana and Paraguay) is not generally knovm. It has been the not unnatural, but injurious, policy of the government of Buenos Ayres (Rosas) to seek to monopolise the trade of the states of La Plata, and to prevent direct intercourse between the other maritime, or i-ather fluvial, provinces and foreign countries. Europeans have been in the habit of looking on Buenos Ayres and Monte Video as the sole ports fitted for foreign com- merce in the states of La Plata, whereas there is no doubt that the best ports are in the river Parana itself, which aflbrds excellent positions for depots of produce, and for loading or discharging vessels. Many such ports exist on the banks, not only of the Parana, but of the rivers Uruguay and Paraguay. In the Parana there is deep water, generally from five to twenty, and sometimes forty, fathoms, with good anchorage. The current runs three or fom- knots, often more, when floods increase the large body of water coming down from the river Paraguay and the numerous smaller rivers which empty themselves into the Parana from various quarters, and are swollen by the melting snow of the Andes. The soil about Corrientes is sandy : trees thrive, but there is more brushwood than timber. The inhabitants, having hitherto had but little intercourse with the rest of the world, are naturally ignorant respecting Europe X 2 308 UP THE PARANA. And here it is impossible to look back on the pohcy pursued by former rulers of Buenos Ayres without the deepest regret that the navigation of such noble rivers, and the development of so fine a country, should have been subjected to such miserable trammels, or their destinies been placed in hands so unworthy of the bounties that Providence had showered upon them. There cannot be a doubt, that if a liberal-minded, common-sense view of things had been taken by the rulers of the city and province, after their emancipation from Spain, at this moment fleets of steamers would be navigating the rivers, and a countless popular tion be settled in the upper countries watered by them. It would be, in fact, the valley of a southern Mississippi, vying with its northern counterpart in everything that could contribute to the prosperity and grandeur of an immense continent. Even com- paratively short as the time has been since the destinies of this part of South America were under native control, it is suffi- cient to have turned a barren waste into a land teeming with riches and abundance — a fact indisputable, and which must be evident to the most cursory observer. But, alas ! the gifts of and its usages. Many of them know but little Spanish, using the Indian dialect, the ' Guarani,' which prevails more or less throughout all this part of the inte- rior of South America, including Paraguay, Bolivia, and Brazil. Of their little knowledge of things considered as the eveijday comforts or necessaries of life in other countries, an eye-witness related a somewhat amusing proof. ' An old Scotchman, who had been settled at Corrientes for the greater part of his life, begged some coal from a British war-steamer on her way up. His sole object in making the request was to be enabled to vindicate liis reputation for veracity. It seems that he had often told them that in England they had a kind of black stone that could be used as fuel, an assertion which was scouted as absurd and incredible, and he was considered as a Scotch Munchausen. He obtained the coal, however, and on the day fixed for the experiment half the town assembled, and, seated in a large cu-cle, with their cigarritos in their mouths, watched the smoke arising from the coal with silent incredulity. It did not readily ignite, so the Dons began to shrug their shoulders and intimate their contempt for the whole affair ; but when the fire blazed up, a total change came over them, and it was highly amusing to witness the enthusiastic delight they evinced, shouting energetically, vivamg, &c.' He adds, speaking of the Corrientines, ' As a race, the men of this country seem much finer in stature and appearance than the women, who are generally small, fair, and delicate, and it is said that further in the interior and in Paraguay they are stUl more UP THE PARANA. 309 Providence have been bestowed in vain : the ' dog jn the manger' principle has been beautifully illustrated ; and, unless a stronger power and a stronger arm than that which exists in the country- be brought to bear, the long night of Egyptian darkness may otherwise even still prevail. Amongst the numerous conflicting statements and opinions, as to what policy shall be carried out, it is difficult to ascertain who are really the stop-gaps in a work of this kind. There can be no question that the barbarous policy of Rosas was virtually to close the rivers ; and the wonder is, that he did not effectually destroy' the entrances, which he might easily have done by sinking vessels laden with stone in the channel off Martin Garcia. His object, as everyone knows, was to reduce the upper provinces to a state of complete dependence on the fair and northern looking.' Some travellers assert that what they call their religion is often little else than superstition, and that their morality is far from strict, but this may be a false impression, adopted on slight grounds. In dress they are perfectly innocent of any superfluity, for which the great heat is a valid reason. But whatever are their shortcomings resulting from their isolated position, they are most hospitable and kind towards strangers. ' Travelling through the country one is well received at every house one rides up to refreshment is always promptly offered, especially water melons, which are particularly grateful in these climates. Payment when offered is almost invariably declined, and never demanded.' In consequence of the gradual filling up of the Parana by alluvial deposits towards the Delta at its mouth, the navigation is much better higher up in the river than where it spreads into many small channels, emptying themselves into the upper part of the River Plate ; stiU a vessel drawing sixteen or seventeen feet of water can go over all the passes when the river is moderately high ; although during the prevalence pf certain winds from the north and west there is less water, and near the island of Martin Garcia generally not more on the banks than fourteen feet. Thus from Colonia to the Bajada, and further up to the pass of San Juan, without any extraordinary rise in the water, a large vessel can ascend. Prom San Juan to Corrientes there is only a depth of thirteen feet on the worst passes, and about the same depth may be had all the way to Assumption, watching opportunity. There are neither ' snags ' nor ' sawyers ' [trunks of trees carried down by the current and fixed in the bottom, very dangerous in the Mississipi and other great rivers of North America, where they are known by these names], rocks, nor other obstructions, but steamers may go at full speed up or down by keeping the right channel. In the broad parts the stream runs at the rate of about three, and in the narrow channels, four knots, or even more.' 310 UP THE PARASA. city, towards which end the equally barbarous but much more romantic, and, perhaps, more justifiable, despotism of Dr. Francia materially aided. Latterly, a feeling seems to be gaining ground in the provinces, that the navigation of their rivers and the pro- motion of immigration, are objects of importance ; and, once this is backed by free and uncontrolled navigation, things will advance rapidly. The late mission of Sir Charles Hotham and the Che- valier St. George is one of the means to such end ; and their treaty with Paraguay must, sooner or later, bring forth its fruits, especially if a real cession of Martin Garcia forms part of the arrangements stipulated. Considerable jealousy still exists on this point ; but there are the interests of a mighty continent and of civihzed Europe against the pstty pride of a people who have not yet learned even to govern or take care of themselves ; and des- perate diseases require strong remedies. In the hands of nautical parties, with the guarantee of the most powerful nations of Europe and America, Martin Garcia would soon be rendered the nucleus of commerce extending from thence to the shores of the Pacific ; the channels and entrances would be properly buoyed and Ughted under some equitable tax on shipping, and countless fleets would soon be passing backwards and forwards. Unless something of this kind is done, local dissensions between provinces will always mar the general good. Moreover, a considerable outlay of money is absolutely required to render the navigation safe and practical ; and where is that to come from, except through the now almost sole machinery of all revenue in these regions — the customs, which foreign shipping, and abundance of it, can alone furnish to the smallest respectable amount ? One of the most remarkable pioneers of the present day, in connection with the development of the river navigation and of the upper provinces, is an American citizen, Mr. Hopkins, who, with all the characteristic ardour and discerning forethought of his country, in seizing upon ' fresh fields and pastures new,' wherever the spirit of commerce is likely to find the smallest resting-place for the sole of its foot, had just left Buenos Ayres UP THE PARANA. 311 for Assumption, in a steamer, with various kinds of machinery on board for establishing manufactories in the Paraguayan metro- polis. One of these is for the preparation of cigars for the European and North American markets, on the plan pursued at the Havannah. There are not less than fourteen or fifteen different descriptions of tobacco grown in Paraguay, each of its kind pro- nounced by connoisseurs, to whom samples have been submitted in England, to be superior to corresponding qualities produced else- where, whether for the purposes of snuff or smoking. On the score of its tobacco alone, therefore, the opening of intercourse with Paraguay is calculated to prove a boon to many a used-up Sybarite, pining dyspeptically for a new pleasure. Mr. Hopkins also, I understand, contemplates improvements in the prepara- tion of the famous Paraguay tea, mate, that will, if possible, en- hance its popularity throughout South America, where there is scarcely a meal in a house with the least pretentions to respect- ability or refinement in which the beverage is not introduced ; and elegance and adroitness in sipping it, through a tube or reed, something after the fashion adopted in the Yankee beverage, known as sherry-cobbler, affords scarcely less opportunity at a tertullia, or evening party, for the display of breeding than does the use of the fan in Spain. The taste of mate is not at all dis- similar to that of green tea, but without the acrid flavour of the Chinese infusion ; and it is not improbable that Mr. Hopkins may render it a very acceptable addition to our drinks in this country ; for it would, at least, form an agreeable variety to the somewhat limited range of compounds now in vogue among our temperance preachers and practitioners. Mr. Hopkins is the head of an en- terprising and affluent joint-stock company, formed some few years ago in the States, who have already expended considerable funds in the prosecution of South American enterprise of this nature, undeterred by the wreck of a fine vessel they were bring- ing out, called ' El Paraguay,' which was condemned and sold at Maranham. He is one of those rare, indomitable spirits who often revolutionize countries without benefiting themselves; and 312 UP THE PABANA. this I should much fear, and deeply deplore, would be his case now, unless, indeed, after having been so long buifeted by the billows of mishap, he now at length ride on the tide of regenerate Paraguay, and 'share the triumph and partake the gale' of its prosperity, which is seemingly soon to come. He has spent many years in that extraordinary country ;* been four times backwards and forwards; travelled on horseback some 36,000 miles! and his whole life, in short, has been a romance, as wonderful in reality among real inhabitants of an almost unknown planet, as was the apocryphal existence of the imaginative Mr. Herman MelviUe among his ideal Omoos and phantasmagoric Typees of the Mar- quesas and the South Sea Islands. He is a great favourite of the present Governor of Paraguay, M. Lopez ; and he will confer im- mense benefit on mankind if he succeeds in stiU further developing those commercial and philanthropic ideas of which the mind of the governor has shown itself so creditably susceptible, by despatching to Europe his two sons, and a large suite, to reciprocate the over- tures towards mercantile cordiality proffered by Lord Malmesbury and the imperial government of France [see chapter on Paraguay]. If any person can carry such highly desirable points as we have adverted to, Mr. Hopkins appears the man to complete, by per- sonal interposition, and personal explanation of the workings of the commercial system in commercial countries, those purposes that were intended by the framers of the Malmesbury treaty, and in the carrying out of which North America has nearly as great an interest as France, or England itself. At all events, we must hope for the best. But, meanwhile, it is time that we proceed with our trip to Rosario. * I have since ascertained that not only did Mr. Hopkins and his party arrive safely at Assumption, but that the vessel had returned to Buenos Ayres, and was going up again— a proof how easily the river can be navigated. Mr. Hopkins was received with great cordiality by General Lopez, and in return for the present of an American carriage, had given to him a large quantity of mate, with a grant of valuable land on the banks of the river, near Assumption. He has been appointed, I hear. United States consul to Paraguay, and thus infinitely increased his means of effecting the results I confidently venture to anticipate at his hands. UP THE PARANA. 313 As we approached Martin Garcia, we saw near it two or three small vessels at anchor, and there appeared to be a roughly-built fort on shore, where the Argentine flag was flying, in salutation of which we hoisted our colours. We thought we heard the report of a musket or two on land, but supposed it was the mere shooting of some idlers for amusement, and so steamed quickly past ; when, to our great astonishment, a ball came whistling over us from a small schooner at anchor under the island, followed by a second, that fell short. We were in the narrowest part of the channel, impossible to bring to, or even stop with safety; and, owing to the confusion caused by this unexpected salute, the steamer grounded on a spit, from which we soon backed her off, and continued our route, being anxious to get into the mouth of the river before sunset, now fast approaching. When the second shot was fired we immediately hoisted the Argentine flag, and these punctilious representatives of ' confederated dignity' did not fire again, and we were soon out of their reach if they were disposed for the exaction of any further deference beyond what we had already paid. An hour brought us to what is called the Boca de Guasa, one of the chief entrances to the great river, up which we were soon steam- ing, guided by the banks, wooded nearly the whole distance. Before midnight a thick fog came on, which compelled us to drop anchor until about 2 p.m., when we resumed our silent course, aided by a late moon, the effect of which, as seen on this waste of waters, surpassed anything I remember to have experienced else- where ; for the solitude of river navigation differs from the loneli- ness of ocean sailing, inasmuch as in the former case jonfeel there is land-life around you, and where you feel that it is not, as in this instance, the depression is correspondingly great. In tra- versing the ocean, however still, there is always a sense of anima- tion and vivacity, and the consciousness that you are in the pathway of intercommunication with your kind. But in pursuing a vast river of this sort, through a country superabounding in every element calculated to sustain the densest population on the face of the globe, and knowing all the while that population there 314 UP THE PARANA. is almost none, you are bowed down by a conviction of the insig- nificance of man's efforts to effect any radical change in nature ; for the European voyager here is deprived of the buoyant pride and hopeful expectancy that sustain the explorer of hitherto undiscovered seas or countries ; and, gloomily, but naturally, his mind reverts to the early navigators of these rivers — their mighty achievements, and the little results that had followed them — a lapse of four centuries leaving things here pretty much as they were when the first European flag floated upon this now placid and majestic stream.* These are sentiments, however, which the reader may naturally think are not very pertinent to a purpose hke the present, and not exactly in keeping with an occasion expressly connected with the commercial opening-up of those streams by the instrumentahty of English enterprise, in a form so indicative of progress as steam. So, too, thought the writer, after a moment's rumination of the ' cud of sweet and bitter fancy ;' for he reflected that these mag- nificent regions, first discovered by Cabot — Enghsh, born and bred, though of Venetian parentage — had stagnated, not under the rule of the countrymen of that 'good olde and famuse man,' but under the rule of those in whose service he had found out a river which might, indeed, have proved worthy of the name the avaricious Spaniards had bestowed upon it — La Plata, the River * The description of this magnificant and important river, by the authors of ' Letters from Paraguay,' is too accurate and graphic to he omitted here, viz. : — The Parana, having its source in the soutliern part of the Brazilian pro- vince of Goyaz, flows down from latitude 81 degrees south, still increased, as it runs, by numerous tributary springs. It is uninterrupted in its course by any obstacle to navigation, except by that formidable one, called the Salto Grande, (the Great "Waterfall, literally, the Great Leap,) which in latitude 24 degrees, with a noise and tumult, heard many miles off, dashes its foaming mass of water over rocks, precipices, and chasms, of the most stupendous cha- racter. Resuming after this its placid course, the wide and glassy Parana, richly wooded on both sides, and navigable by small vessels, pours down its salubrious waters impregnated with sarsaparilla, till, at Corrientes, it forma its junction with the River Paraguay. From that point the two rivers joined, go under the name of the one river, Parana, the latter being, sometimes, though erroneously, below this, considered the parent stream. The Parana discharges itself into the River Plate, by several mouths ; by that of the Parana Guazu, rP THE PARANA. 315 of Silver — had they been imbued with a particle of the spirit which has converted ' icy Labrador,' the first territory discovered by the same glorious adventurer, into a comparatively industrial paradise. I augured, I hope with no unjustifiable audacity, that now the descendants of Cabot and of his companions had been brought into direct relationship with the people of the Parana, something would be done to render that ' Mississippi of the South ' not altogether unworthy of some slight social and political com- parison with the Northern ' Father of Waters ' before many more generaticms should roll by ; and I deemed it a not altogether impossible contingency that the younger members of our crew at which point the waters of the Uruguay also fall in ; of the Parana Mini, lower down ; and of the Parana de las Palmaa, still near to Buenos Ayres. Thus formed, the Rio de la Plata pours its accumulated waters into the Atlantic ; and although its mouth at the two opposite capes of Santa Maria and San Antonio is one hundred and fifty miles wide, it does no more than correspond to the grandeur of the mland navigation. From its source, in Matto Grosso, latitude 14 degrees south, till its confluence with the Parana at Cprrientes, the River Paraguay has already run a course of 1,200 miles ; from Corrientes to Buenos Ayres, the distance measured by both these streams under the one name of the Parana is 740 ; while from Buenos Ayres to Cape St. Antonio and Maria, the combined waters of the Paraguay, Parana, and Uru- guay, united under the one name of River Plate, run a farther distance of 200 ; making a total course of 2,150 mUes, including the windings, which are often of a very sweeping kind. Of this immense tract of water, fifteen hundred miles are navigable by vessels drawing ten feet. The river abounds with fish from its mouth to its source. The pexerey (king's fish), the dorado, mullet, pacu (a sort of turbot), and many others, are found in it ; its banks are for the most part richly studded with wood ; its various island are adorned with beautiful shrubs, evergreens, creepers, &c. ; the woods abound with game, and the adjacent country teems with cattle. The waters are highly salubrious ; the soil all along the banks of the river, with the exception of the Great Chaco, is rich and fertile in the highest degree. But notwithstanding all these advantages — ^notwithstanding that the country has been for three himdred years in the possession of a civilized European nation — after I had galloped two hundred and eighty leagues, I did not see above four or five small towns. Not more than a like number of vessels were to be descried on my route, while at every fifteen nules distance a miserable hut, with its half-dozen inha- bitants, was alone interposed to relieve the monotony of the scene. The secret of all the silence, solitude, and abandonment of Nature to herself, which I saw and lamented, is of course to be traced to the inadequate means which have hitherto been used to provide even a semblance of the population necessary to cover a country of such vast fertility and extent. 316 UP THE PARANA. might live to cast anclior in certain riverine ports liereabouts, amid a forest of masts and funnels belonging to all the maritime states in tlie world, not one of which countries but may find produce of some kind or other protitably suitable to its markets on these fertile shores. The turns and windings of the Parana, all along the portion now being passed over, and indeed nearly throughout its entire length, are numerous, without at all impelling the navigation, being, in many parts, sufficiently wide and imposing to justify its native appellation of Parana Guazu, or Sea Piiver. Vfter daylight, fiig and mist again enveloped us. but we were enabled to continue our course, guided by trees, profusely growing, and which, on the low grounds, are chiefly of the willow species. AYe passed Obligado. on whose high bank Rosas erected those batteries to dispute the passage of the convoy undei' protection of the French anil Englisli vessels of war, which were, as we have seen, of so verv little avail. The scenery around Obligado is pretty, and was more so as wo proceeded — occasional lofty banks covered with verdure — c>tani-ias, ami cattle trrazing about. Tiiis interest was heiirlitened SAN M(.'>I.A,s III-, ON 1111-. rAKA>A. as we approached San Nicolas,* which is one of the first towns of conseipience, situate on a shelving bank, where a troop of Argentine cavalry were bivouacked ; and as they came galloping down to the water's ed'a\ their o'av-coloured dresses, scarlet * Jlr. }>IcCami is in ervov in stating- the pupulatidn of this tomi at S.OOfl: and his general descviptinn of it wonld apply moro to Rosario, probahly owing' to .some error in his notes afterwards wlien dcseribiuir the two towns. UP THE PARANA. 317 ponchos, and glittering equipments reflected against the bright green grass, the effect was highly picturesque and animated. Here we landed, took in a small quantity of fire-wood on trial, and went to call on the Juiz da Paz, and other authorities. I had a ramble over the town, which is intended to be large : streets laid out in the usual Spanish right-angled triangle mode, but the sites of future mansions, castles in the air, veritable casas en Espagna, dotted with only unfinished straggling houses here and there, with dozens of what looked like Irish cabins stretching around, the Hibernian and Hispaniolan identity being here de- veloped as strongly as any member of the Celtic Antiquarian Society can desire. The soHtary church of this city, as the local hidalgos insist on designating the place, has been almost destroyed by an explosion of gunpowder, which did great mischief to every building but the house itself where the catastrophe originated. A Buenos Ayrean brig and steamer of war were at anchor here, from the commanders of whom we received a degree of attention and civility that altogether obliterated any resentful reminiscence which our preceding rough reception might have awakened. The commander of the steamer, Muratore, spoke English well, and ex- pressed himself very indignant at the treatment we had experienced at Martin Garcia, which, he said, they were wholly unwarranted in practising ; adding, that he would report such conduct to the chief of the naval forces at head quarters. There is very deep water here, from ten to twelve fathoms, with muddy bottom, and it took us half an hour to get up our anchor, after which we steamed on towards Rosario, through a country increasing in cultivation and teeming in verdure every mile we advanced ; and it was not difficult to reahze the accuracy of Mr. Mackinnon's dis- cription of the topography hereabouts, in the annexed passage, which appears to me to be fully deserving of the prominence of conspicuous type : ' Our progress this day was remarkable for the beautiful scenery 'on the side of the Banda Oriental. The view was similar to that which is seen when sailing from Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, to I 1 1 t^ :.ji UP THE PARANA. 319 Cowes, (without the high land,) and about the same width of water. In the afternoon, we entered a labyrinth of islands, which con^ tracted the channel considerably. As -we advanced, the scenery was very much varied ; sometimes between islands so close together, that we shot birds and animals on each shore. These islands are plentifully interspersed with the date palm, which had a most beautiful appearance ; and, when we drew out near the main land, the stream widened considerably. We passed either bold, bluff barrancas, over which nothing was visible, and whence we might easily have been picked off by musketry ; or a gently sloping green pasture down to the river's margin, dotted with horned cattle, horses, and sometimes ostriches and deer. Clumps of trees were interspersed, and beautifully grouped by the hand of Nature. Sometimes, for a short distance, a dense forest of large timber- trees impeded the view. A high sand-bank then intervened, with a belt (about fifty yards broad) of trees and shrubs, where I often stopped to rest the men, and then surveyed the country, which was mainly characterized by undulating pasture land, interspersed with coppices and clumps of trees, stretching inland as far as the eye could reach, and completely covered by animal hfe in great variety, hke a very extensive and well-kept park in England. The only thing wanting to make this the most enchanting scene in the world, was the presence of civilized man ; but, alas ! the brute creation alone enjoyed the terrestial paradise. As we advanced, we every now and then perceived deer come down fearlessly to drink. Pheasants walked quietly along the banks, or sat in the trees in fancied security, five and six, and even more- together. The partridges, both large and small, constantly rose close to the boat ; whilst numerous carpinchas sat quietly on their haunches, like Brobdignag brown guinea-pigs, staring at us with the most perfect unconcern. Here was a situation for a sportsman !' Extensive farms and cattle-grazing districts were seen along the heights, and we were told that a large number of wealthy land- owners resided between San Nicolas and Rosario. The opposite bank of the river (Entre Rios) is low and swampy, but well lined 320 UP THE PARANA. with trees. As the sun was sotting in splendid tfcanquilhty, we came to anclior off Rosario do Santa Fe, and found it a large, well constructed town, with a good cathedral, whoso unique-looking towers were visible many miles distant, in an atmosphere that is singularly translucent beyond tlie immediate vicinage of the river, which is sometimes obscured by fogs and haze, though we could not learn that any ill effects to human health were expe- \ 1 111 1 VI \N V ricnccd in consequence ; and certainly the vegetation and herbage appear at once luxui'iant and delicate. The cathedral is in a large square, entirely built up, and streets branch ficim it at light angles, many extensive, substantial looking houses being now in course of erection, and, altogether, an appearance of prosperous activity, as refi'eshing as unanticipated, pervades the whole place. cvrtrvs I F M \GF — Tr v\ i LLI^ ^\ vuc lns. The town contains about 7,000 inhabitants, and is the great rendez- vous for the upper provinces, numerous huge, unwieldy but most UP THE PAEANA. '32;1 capacious waggons being collected about, ready for their laborious, service, which they perform chiefly by means of leather. How-; ever pertinent the phrase ' nothing like leather' may be elsewhere, here it is of universal and unerring appHcability. Streets and roads are repaired with heads and horns of cows and horses. A horse's or cow's head serves for a stool, or a chair, or a pillow, just as the case may be ;* but a horse or cow-hide serves for purposes innumerable out of doors, and in all matters of vehicular concern- ment are inestimable ; for where ropes or harness would be but as pack-thread, a slip of raw hide, drying after it has been attached, binds like links of adamant, if any such linking there be. The supply, of course, is inexhaustible ; and the dexterity with which a strip of skin, of any dimensions, is fastened to a waggon, or to luggage upon a waggon, and thence coupled, when needful, to the horses, is extraordinary. The only thing that occurred to awaken unpleasant feelings during our stay at Rosario,- was the general presence of that ill-omened symbol of sanguinary anarchy and benumbing oppression, the red badge, which unac- countably continues to be exhibited long after the downfall of him whose supremacy it but too significantly testifi.ed, though now used by the partizans of Urquiza. Until such emblems be finallj^ discarded, it is in vain to look for any real amalgamation of the provinces, let parchment treaties and ratifications be multipUed as numerously as they may. San Nicolas is the last Buenos Ayrean frontier town, Rosario being in the possession of Urquiza, who was residing not far from it, but living, at that time, very. * I will mention a few of the uses to which I have seen hides applied. The hammocks in which the people sleep were hides cut^ like a puzzle, to spread' out as so much net-work, neat, cool, and pleasant. The milk from cows wa^ collected and emptied into a hide spread out on sticks in the shape of a large hucket or tuh, capable of holding from sixteen to twenty gallons. The houses and carts were covered with hides; a hide-spout conveyed water off roofs. The tanpits were hides spread out like the milk tub before mentioned, containing other hides under tanning process. Everything connected with horse furni- ture was supplied by hides. The beams and supports of houses were lashed by hide thongs. The doors and windows, and, frequently, the very walla, were hides laced together ; in short, everything almost was hiies.'^MacMnnon. . 322 UP THE PARANA. quietlj. Advancing upwards between these two places against the stream, we had a fine view of the extensive plains branching from Rosario eastward; there seemed to be abundance of sheep and cattle grazing, and plenty of grass and clover, together with a crop of barley that might have been dressed with guano, and nurtured under the special supervision of Mr. Mechi himself, with all the patent contrivances of Tiptree Farm tripled three times over. Would that there were a myriad of Mechis settled down here \ What a glorious country would it be under a better state of even pohtical organization, with a soil prolific, yet not rank, and a climate the most delicious that could be imagined at this season of the year ; a positive tonic for the languid in every breath of it, and yet not enfeebling to the robust. From Rosario can be seen the convent of San Louren§o, one of the gigantic estabhshments of the Jesuits ; and at tliis point occurred the famous encounter with the convoy, under care of Captains Hotham and Threhouart, on their return from Paraguay, after forcing the passage of the river, when Rosas erected batteries, and had a huge chain placed across the river, that was soon destroyed by our gallant tars, as we shall see in some detail when we speak of Sir C. Hotham in the chapter on Paraguay.* After spending the night at Rosario, and collecting as much wood together as could be cut by 1 p.m. next day, we got under w^gh on our return, with the cordial good wishes of the inhabit- ants, who had shown us every possible attention, and taking several passengers, who availed themselves of the opportunity to make an easy visit to Buenos Ayres. As a proof of the utility of . steam navigation in bringing people together, softening prejudices, and creating a more kindly feeling, I may mention that our passen- gers were of all shades of party, some ready, under other circum- stance, to draw a sword or a trigger on each other ; but here they were hale fellows well met, and played together at cards, or * Rosario is most favourably situated for carrying on a large trade, which promises soon to locate itself here. Already there is an English branch esta^ blisbment here, and a resident English consul has been appointed. UP THE PJlRAHA. 323 conversed, with not the slightest appearance of ill feeling. A steamer is a great leveller of prejudices and party distinctions. We soon reached San Nicolas, and brought up for some hours, augmenting our number of passengers and supply of wood, as we found our coals getting short ; got under weigh again at 3 a.m., steaming fast down with the current, which runs two and three knots at this season of the year. Saw the convent of San Pedro, another remarkable establishment of the Jesuits, situated on rising ground, and where a branch of the main river runs ; towards afternoon approached the Boca, or entrance of the river, and brought up to get more wood, which we fortunately did from a vessel at anchor there, every gentleman on board taking oif his coat, and working hke a common peon. Again we got under weigh and approached our over- officious official friends at Martin Garcia, where we determined to bring up for the night, and ask for an explanation of what had occurred at that most disputatious and pugnacious point before. On rowing towards the schooner, those on board hailed us to go on shore to the commandant, an injunction which we managed, after some difficulty in groping our way through the rocky beach, to fulfil. The commandant said he had no wish to obstruct our passage, nor had he given orders to fire at us ; so we returned on board, satisfied that the salute would not be repeated. So splendid a night I have rarely seen ; not a breath of air, and yet cool and pleasant ; the stars reflected in the waters like a double firmament, the slight motion causing one portion to oscillate a little, the other firmament remaining motionless. Morning broke equally glorious, though a heavy dew had fallen, and the air was positively cold. Finally, steamed across to the bank, and disembarked passengers at 9 "30 a.m., under five days; had we not been detained by want of fuel it would have occupied only four days ; 21^ hours time up steam- ing, and 20 hours down. To show the comparative ignorance as to this boundless country, it may be mentioned that several of our passengers, who had re- sided 20 and 30 years at Buenos Ayres, had never before been Y 2 324 UP THE PARANA. up the rivers : others, compelled to do so, had occupied weeks in doing what we did in a few days ; and, altogether, great satisfac- tion was felt at this practical result of steaming, the Argentina, it is true, being the fastest steamer that had ever appeared on the waters of La Plata ; and hence one reason why her loss has since been mourned over as a national bereavement, which it undoubt- edly was, though perhaps the temporary presence in these waters of the Menai paddle-wheel will prove some compensation till a more imposing craft shall permanently take the place of that very excellent vessel. My practical acquaintance with this river navigation being thus only limited in extent, I was unable to gratify my curiosity by exploring it further up, where the scenery, according to all testi- mony, is singularly fine ; and, approaching Paraguay, the country becomes rich and fertile, and picturesque in a high degree. Beyond Rosario, the distance to the city of Assumption is about 700 miles, 1,000 miles being the entire reported distance from Buenos Ayres, and the navigation becomes more difficult. Still, the fact of the ' Alecto ' steamer having reached Corrientes,* and the ' Locust' Assumption, proves that it is practicable enough for vessels of small draught of water. H.M.S. ' Vixen' has also been j * The capital of the province of Corrientes, of wliich our sketch is taken from Ithe deck of a man-of-war, is not a large place. Its population has been Variously estimated at 3,000, 6,000, and 8,000 inhabitants. This difference is partly accounted for by the fluctuations incident to the military system by which they have too long been oppressed. In fact, subjection to martial law has hitherto been, not the exceptional, but the normal state of these countries. A traveller visiting one of these towns while the greater part of its male inhabi- tants are absent on military service as volunteers, would have a very different impression as to the number of its population from that which he would receive during a time of peace, and in the commercial and busy season. Moreover, a great many of the wives and children of these men foUow, as best they may, the march of the troops, so that whole districts are thus nearly depopulated by these frequent drains of their inhabitants. The ' Gauchos,' as the country people are called, are naturally a good-natured, hardy, and courageous race. The de- moralization and recklessness consequent on their being forcibly taken from useful and peaceful occupations to swell the ranks of some ambitious ' caudiUo ' or chieftain, have of course produced much evil, inuring them to scenes of violence, bloodshed, and injustice. It is true that they are called out and HP THE PARANA. 325 much Up this river, and the 'Fanny' steamer, taking up the Ame- rican expedition already alluded to, would not draw less than from nine to ten feet, whilst our Httle steamer did not draw seven, feet, with her coals on board, nor was her great length any diffi- anned for the loudly-proclaimed purpose of defending ' la libertad, la patria,' &c., and appeals to the feelings of independence, honour, virtue, and all the high-sounding words of the sonorous language of Spain are employed by those who want their services. Here, as too generally in Spanish America, their j feelings of patriotism have been so frequently invoked either to defend or attack some individual or party, that it is only surprising their characters are not more perverted, and that the moral devastation should not keep pace with that which i has so long physically blighted these naturally fine provinces. The resources of these states have been wasted in order to maintain a military force much ( too large in proportion to their population, and it has been employed either in 1 aggression on neighbouring countries, or for the intimidation or coercion of I the provinces themselves, to support the personal policy of the executive. / Thus their great capabilities of production have not been developed, and industrial improvement has been completely checked. The evils of such a y system are even more injirriously felt in these vast and thinly inhabited regions" than they might be in countries differently circumstanced. The wealth of Corrientes consists chiefly in vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses. The pasturage of the province is remarkably fine : its exports are hides, tallow, wool, hair, and some agricultural produce. The trade which might arise with the countries in the interior, through which these mighty rivers flow, were the navigation open, is beyond calculation, and its profits would soon enable the States of La Plata to pay with ease their foreign and domestic creditors, and to raise funds for internal improvements. During the few months that the navigation of the Parana was kept open in 1845-6, two convoys, (under the admirable arrangements adopted by the dis- tinguished officer who commanded H.M. squadron in the Parana, Commo- dore Sir Charles Hotham), one consisting of upwards of one hundred vessels, laden with produce, the other of more than seventy, came down that river and the Paraguay with very little loss or damage, after having exchanged the cargoes of European or North American merchandise that they brought up for the goods with which the different depots at Corrientes and other places were overflowing, to the value of some millions of hard dollars. It is true that an accumulation of produce at the ports of the river then existed, caused by the interdiction of the navigation by the governing power of one of the banks of the river. But as it is the manifest interest of the different states whose natural outlet is by the River Plate and its confluents,— the Parana and Uruguay,— that internal navigation should be free, or placed, for instance, on a sunilar footing to that of the Rhine, it is to be hoped that before very long the governments most interested in this question, those of La Plata especially, will awaken to a sense of the vast mterest they have in opening these great channels of inter-communication to the commerce of the world. 326 TIP THE PARANA. culty in turning angles of the river. There is no doubt that a class of steamers could be built that would make the passage to Assumption in a few days ; and it is said that General Lopez, the Paraguayan Plenipotentiary to England and France, has already ordered two for the service, which augurs well for his desire to cultivate external relations. Of the ' Uruguay' I know nothing but from hearsay and infor- mation : that it is a noble stream, much wider and more easily navigated than the Parana, with the same boundless extent of uncultivated country. We saw the entrance to it on the right from the Boca of the Parana, which makes a sharp angle. The main difficulty in connection with this river navigation are the channels about Martin Garcia, which are tortuous and very narrow in some places. It appears, indeed, to be a deep gulley, formed by the mass of waters pressing their way through the miles of sand and mud lying across the main entrance, much of it almost dry at the surface ; and until these channels are properly buoyed and hghted, even steamers will be subject to delay and damage, as the most experienced pilot can scarcely rely on his eye or bearing in such an expanse of water. PAEAGUAY. Sm CIIAELES IIOTIIAM, K.C'.B., I.ATE HER MAJESTY S PLENIPOTENTIAEY TO PARAGUAY. CHAPTER XIII. PARAGUAY. Sources of information. — General Pacheco. — Inaccuracies of Sir Woodbine Parish. — Navii;aljility of the Parana by large vessels. — Decrees of the go- vernment of Paraguay on the treatment of foreigners. — Decrees relative to inventions and improvements. — Mr. Drabble's commercial mission, and its results, — Cultivation of cotton. — Drawbacks to its extension. — Scarcity of labour. — Provisions of the treaty between Great Britain and Paraguay. — The commercial resources of the country little known in this, — ^Navigability of the Paraguay and the Uruguay. — Obligation of the Brazilian and Buenos Ayrean governments to remove i]n]>eiliments. — Population of Paraguay. — Public works undertaken by the Consular CJovernmeut. — Salubrity of the climate. — Fertility of tlie soil. — Pasturage illimitable. — Character of the Paraguayans. — President Lopez. — Diplomatic mission of Sir Charles Ilotham. — General Lojiez, — State of the country at the death of Fran- cia. — First measures of the Consular Government. — Revenue of Paraguay. Administration of justice. — Revision of the tariff. — Release of political prisoners at the termination of Francia's Reign of Terror. PARAGUAY. 329 As indicated at the conclusion of the last chapter, my ascent of the Parana ceased at Rosario, whence I descended to the mouth of the Plate, on the return voyage to Europe ; consequently, what I am about to say of Paraguay is not the result of actual personal experience in that strange land. Nevertheless, I offer the annexed observations with considerable confidence, as the fruits of diligent inquiry among several who had been there, some for many years, some very recently ; and as the fruits also of the perusal of nearly all accredited works on the subject, of one of which in particular,* whose merits and reliabilty are vouched for by the distinguished Uruguayan soldier and administrator who has edited it — General Pacheco — I have availed myself to some extent, having been also assured by other competent critics that it is most trustworthy in its data and most dispassionate in its views. The paucity of works on this country is not surprising, but the inaccuracy of that which, being the most recent, is naturally accepted as the most authori- tative in England, is indeed marvellous. The obligations of all interested in Platine affairs are so great to Sir Woodbine Parish, and as regards Paraguay in particular, members of his family long ago afforded so much invaluable information then derivable from no other source, that it is with the utmost reluctance I say a word calculated to diminish the deference due to the veteran diplomatist and author ; nor should I attempt to impugn his statements if he spoke from his own individual knowledge. Still, his predilection in favour of Rosas, to which I have adverted in the introductory chapter (page 30), and his antipathy to everybody and everything inimical to the regime and the system of the Buenos Ayrean Dictator, are, or at least in 1852 were, so potent as completely to run away with his otherwise excellent judgment. On what other grounds can we account for his lending all the emphasis of italics to such passages as these, for which he quotes Colonel Graham, the United States Consul, who proceeded on an official mission to * Le Paraguay ; son passe, son present, et son arenir ; par un Stranger, qui a yecu longtemps dans ce pays, ouvrage publie a Rio- Janeiro, et reproduit en France ; par General Oriental Pacheco-y-Obes. S30 PARAGUAY. Paraguay, in 1845, and who is apparently regarded by Sir Wood- bine as an indisputable authority, viz. : — ' Were its resources developed, and encouragement given to the industry of its inhabitants, it might become a comparatively wealthy part of South America, hut it could never support an active trade excepting with the adjoining States. Verba, the tea of Paraguay, its chief product, is only consumed in South America ; its fine woods would not hear the expense of transport to Europe ; its sugar, tobacco, cotton, and rice, on account of the distance which they would have to be conveyed from the interior, even were the Parana open, could never enter into competition with those of Brazil and the United States. If the Parana were declared open to all nations, the United States could not carry on any direct intercourse with Paraguay under its own flag. The vessels adapted for crossing the ocean would not go up the Parana, and merchandise would have to be re-em- barked at the mouth of the river in craft suitable to its navigation, and owned by parties resident in the country. Mr. Graham's observations are equally applicable to the shipping of European nations, and they can- not too often be repeated for the information of parties embarking in trade with those remote countries.' The best answer to all this is what I have already said in the preceding chapter respecting Colonel Graham's fellow-countryman, Mr. Hopkins ; and as to * vessels adapted for crossing the ocean not going up the Parana,' Sir Woodbine must surely have been well aware, even at the time Graham wrote, saying nothing of subsequent experience, of the facts borrowed from Sir W. Gore Ouseley, in the note to the illustration of Corrientes (see p. 324), respecting the ascent, not merely of the Parana, by British vessels of war, but of the Paraguay, as far as Assumption, by the French war steamer Fulton, commanded by Captain Mazeres; also that for Upwards of 300 miles beyond Assumption the navigation of the Paraguay is even better than it is below the capital, as was lately- exemplified, since my return to England, by the voyage of the American steamer Waterwitch, far beyond the limits previously understood to be navigable, except to the small river craft of the country. It may be said that Colonel Graham could not have known these latter facts when he wrote what Sir Woodbine has quoted. But Sir Woodbine himself must have known them, and should not, therefore, have quoted the Colonel ; and he must have known PARAGUAY. 33 1 also' that public notification had been given, in the following docu- ment, which I also take the liberty of printing in italics, that there had been an end put to the isolation in which Paraguay had so long been kept by Francia ; and that ' one Lopez,' as Sir Woodbine calls the present enlightened President, had made every advance to the external world years before the world became persuaded that the system of Francia had been buried with him. Decrees as to the Treatment of Foreigners in Paraguay, and THE Privileges and Recompenses to be Awarded to Those WHO SHALL Contribute to Develope and Encourage Industry and the Material Improvement or the Country. The Supreme Government of the Republic : Considering that it behoves us to extend and cultivate relations of amity, good understanding, and harmony with foreign nations, and consequently to acquaint the national authorities with the system which the Government follows and seeks to enforce for this purpose with reference to foreign subjects, decrees, in virtue of and in conformity with the fundamental laws of the State and its political and commercial principles, that the said authorities shall punctually observe the following rules : — Art. 1. The Supreme Govern- ment of the Republic will maintain, as a general and unalterable privilege in its relations with foreign powers, a perfect and absolute equality ; so that wheresoever there may be any identity of cases or circumstances, no privileges, immunities, or favours whatsoever shall be granted to any nation which shall not in like manner be conceded to all others. Art. 2. Consequently, every foreigner, whosoever he may be, can betake himself to such ports of the Republic as are open to foreign commerce, and there carry on his mercantile operations in perfect freedom. Art. 3. Now, and for the whole time that the Government shall consider those circumstances to exist which have induced it to appoint certain ports for the admission of foreigners, the latter will not be allowed to proceed (s'interner) to other ports without a special permission from the Government. Art. 4. Every foreigner, during his stay in the territory of the Republic, shall have full liberty to commence and to exercise his trade or profession : he shall obtain for his person all protection and security, provided that on his side he respects the authorities and the laws of the State. Art. 5. All foreigners are exempt from forced service by sea or land, from all military exactions or requisitions, and from extraordinary contributions, and shall only pay those levied on natives, with the slight difference consecrated by law between citizens and foreigners. Art. 6. No foreigner shall he persecuted on account of his religion, on condition that he does not exercise his worship publicly, and that he respects the religion of the State, its ministers, and its public ceremonies. Art. 7. Foreigners are in no case obliged to trust their business to agents or brokers ; they have in this respect the same immunities as natives. Art. 8. Money, goods, or property of any nature whatsoever belonging to foreigners residing within the ter- 332 PARAGUAY. ritory of the Republic, and confided either to the State or to private individuals, shall he respected and kept inviolate, both in time of war and in time of peace. Art. 9. In virtue of the principle recognised in the pre- ceding article, should a rupture occur between the Republic and a foreign country, the subjects and citizens of that country residing within the territory of the Republic shall be allowed to remain there and continue their trade or profession without hindrance, provided that they conduct themselves with suitable fidelity, and in nowise violate the laws and regulations in force. Art. 10. The exportation of the produce of the country by foreigners shall he subjected to no other duty than that paid by natives. Art. 11. The Supreme Government of the Republic can eject from its territories, either in time of peace or of war, any foreigner whose had conduct gives rise to the adoption of this measure, but he shall he allowed a reasonable time for the settlement of his affairs. Art. 12. All foreigners residing within the territory of the Republic have a right to dispose of their property, either by will or in whatever form they may consider advisable. Art. 13. In case of the decease of a foreigner with- out a will, his property shall be preserved in the form prescribed in the following article, for his heirs ab intestate, or for his creditors. Art. 14. In the case stated in the preceding article, that is to say, the decease of a foreigner ab intestate, the judge of the district where the decease takes place, assisted by two honourable fellow-countrymen of the deceased, and in default of these by two inhabitants of the locality, shall proceed, with the least possible delay, to make out a minute inventory of all the property of the defunct, shall keep them in a place of safety, and shall render an account of the whole, accompanied by the inventory, to the Government, so that the property may be deposited in a proper place, according to its nature. Art. 15. The said decease ab intestate shall then be announced in the Gazette, in order that all those concerned may be made acquainted with it. If any heir or creditor appears he shall produce legal proof of his claim. Art. 16. If no party concerned appears, or delays in the pro- ceedings threaten to occasion a deterioration of the property, the latter shall he converted into the currency of the country, and which shall be deposited in the chest of the Treasurer or Receiver-General, and under their responsibility. Art. 17. In case the parties concerned cannot legally prove their claims, or shall not appear after the lapse of two years dated from the commencement prescribed in art. 15, the property so de- posited shall be adjudged to the national treasury. Art. 18. Property delivered to foreigners who are the legitimate progenitors or descendants of foreigners who have died testate or ab intestate, shall pay at the time they receive it a duty of five per cent. When it is delivered to any other foreign heir, who is neither a progenitor nor a descendant in virtue of a will or succession ab intestate, the duty shall be ten per cent. In order that all may be made acquainted with the present decree, it shall he promulgated in the legal form and deposited in the public archives, CARLOS ANTONIO LOPEZ. AllDRES GIL, Sec. to the Supreme Govt. Assumption, 20th May, 1845, PABAGUAY. 333', At the same time, publicity had been given to another document, which showed that not only were the persons and property of strangers perfectly safe in Paraguay, but that protection was afforded to the fruits of their invention and ingenuity, in a manner that other nations, pretending to a much higher degree of civihza- tion, would do well to imitate, viz. : — The Supreme Government of the Republic, desirous of encouraging industry and developing the elements of improvement possessed hy the State, and considering that one of the most efficient means consists in properly defining and guaranteeing the position and rights of those who conduce to so useful an end, decrees : — Art. 1. Every discovery or new invention in whatever branch of industry it may be, is the property of the inventor, and its enjoyment is guaranteed to him in the form and for the time specified in the following articles. Art. 2. Every means of giving to a production already in existence a greater degree of perfection shall be considered as a new discovery. Art. 3. Whosoever shall introduce into the Republic a discovery of foreign origin shall enjoy the same advan- tages which he would have derived from it had he been the inventor. Art. 4. Whosoever is desirous of obtaining and insuring to himself the enjoyment of an industrial property of the description above-men- tioned, shall — first, address to the Secretary of the Supreme Government a declaration in writing specifying the nature of his claim, whether it is for a discovery, the perfecting, or the introduction of one ; secondly, forward under seal an exact description of the principles, means, and procedure which constitute the discovery, as well as the plans, designs, models, and other documents which relate to it, and which sealed paper or volume shall be opened at the moment when the inventor shall receive a title to his property. Art. 5. The inventor shall be granted a patent which shall guarantee him the dis- covery as his property for the space of five or ten years, reckoned from the date of the patent. This period, however, may be extended, and other advantages conceded if the importance of the invention is so great as to call for extraordinary protection. Art. 6. The period during which a patent granted for an invention introduced from a foreign country remains in force cannot exceed by more than six months that stated in the patent taken out for the invention in that country. Art. 7. The possessor of a patent shall be exclusively entitled to the use and proceeds of the discovery, or the perfecting or introduction of one, for which it shall have been granted ; conse- quently he can bring an action against infractors of his patent, and on conviction they shall be condemned, besides confiscation, to pay to the patentee all costs and damages ; and, moreover, a fine of twenty per cent, on the total amount of the preceding condemnation, which shall be applied to public expenses. Art. 8. Should the draiunciation of fraud, followed by the sequestration of the defend-" 334 PARAGUAY. ant's property, be found devoid of proofs, the patentee shall be condemned to pay to the defendant all losses and damages which he may have sustained, besides a fine of tvirenty per cent, on the total amount of the said losses and damages, to be applied in like manner to public expenses. Art. 9. Every patentee shall have the right of forming establishments in different parts of the Republic, except- ing only such reserved places as have been declared to him before- hand, as well as of authorising other individuals to use and put his procedure, his discovery, and his secret in practice - — in fine, to dispose of his patent as if it were personal property. Art. 10. Before the expiration of the period for which the patent is granted, the descriptions of the invention can only be communicated to some citizen who may wish to consult them, unless political or commercial reasons should require the whole to be kept secret, or the inventor has solicited and obtained at the time he took out the patent an assurance that complete reserve shall be maintained with regard to his invention. Art. 11. At the expiration of the patent the inven- tion or discovery shall become the property of the Republic ; and the Supreme Government shall cause a description of it to be pub- lished, and shall allow it to be generally used and engaged, save and except when it shall be necessary to place some restrictions on it. Art. 12. This publication shall also take place, and the use of the operations which constitute the invention declared free, if the possessor of a patent loses his right to it, which can only happen in the follow- ing cases : First, when the inventor shall be convicted of having omitted in his description any of the procedure essential to the preparation of the article invented, or of not having set it forth with sufficient fidelity or details ; secondly, when he has not communicated the new modifications or improvements of his discovery known to him at the time when he takes out his patent or even discovered by him after having obtained it, and the enjoyment of which is as safely guaranteed to him as that of the first invention ; thirdly, when it shall be demonstrated that he has obtained his patent by an inven- tion already to be found and described in works printed and published, so that in reality it is no new invention ; fourthly, when, during the lapse of two years from the date of the patent, he has not began to make use of his discovery, excepting when he can give good reasons for the delay ; fifthly, when, after he has obtained a patent from the republic, he is convicted for having obtained another for the same invention in a foreign country without preliminary authority ; sixth- ly, the patent shall in like manner be revoked, the invention pub- lished, and its use made free, if the purchaser of the right to use an invention specified in a patent violates the conditions imposed on the inventor, conditions which are not the less binding on the purchaser. Art. 13. If a discovery which is useful to the public is found to be eminently simple in its execution and susceptible of being too easily imitated, the inventor, instead of a patent, may demand an equivalent remuneration. Art. 14. This may likewise take place EABAGUAT. 335 when the inventor prefers the honour of causing the nation to enjoy the advantages of his discovery at once. This remuneration shall be proportionate to the respective utility of the inventions, w^ell and duly certified and appreciated. Art. 15. If any one discovers a fresh improvement for an invention already guaranteed by a patent, he shall obtain, at his request, another patent for the separate use of this new improvement, nevertheless he shall never be permitted, under any pretext whatsoever, to use or cause to be used the princi- pal invention, and reciprocally the inventor cannot use or cause to be used the new improvement, without prejudice to such arrange- m3nts as may be mads between themselves. Art. 16. The priority of invention, in cases of dispute between two patentees relative to the same article, shall be awarded to him who has first made the declaration and deposited the documents, as required in Art. 4. la order that every one may he made acquainted with the present de- cree, it shall he published in the legal form and deposited in the puhlic archives CARLOS ANTONIO LOPEZ. A UDRES GIL, Sec. to the Supreme Government. Assumption, 20th May, 1845. In respect to what Sir Woodbine says in reference to the pro- ducts of Paraguay not bearing the expense of transport, it will perhaps be sufficient to cite in a note* the opinions of practical men upon the exceeding desirability and the feasibility of Europeans availing themselves of one of its staples most essential to English manufactures, as set forth in the leading journal a few months back. * Mr. G. "W. Drabble, a gentleman who proceeded some time ago from Manchester on a visit to the River Plate, determined to devote some of his time and attention to ascertain- ' ing the capability of tlie Argentine territory and the Banda Oriental for growing cotton. Lord Clarendon having been written to by the Manchester Commercial Association to ask his assistance for Mr. Drabble in carrying out this intention, replied, in a letter, dated the 1st of March, that he would have particular pleasure in complying with the request, and that his Lordship ' had recommended Mr. Drabble to the kind offices of Captain Gore (Her Majesty's Charg^ d'Affaires at Buenos Ayres) and Mr. Hunt (the British Acting Consul-General), and had instructed them to afford to Mr. Drabble every facility and assistance in their power in furtherance of his object, which was one in which Her Majesty's Government take great interest.' A letter was afterwards received from the Consul- General at Monte Video, 4th of June, stating that he would be very glad indeed to give Mr. Drabble everj' assistance in his power. The following letter to Mr. J. A. Turner, president of the Manchester Commercial Association, details the result of Mr. Drabble's investigations : — ' Buenos Ayres, Oct. 1. The unsettled state of politics that prevailed on my arrival here prevented my being able to avail myself of the offers of assistance by Mr. Gore and Mr. Hunt, nor was a journey to the interior provinces then practicable. From Paraguay, fortunately. General Lopez, son of the President of that country, was passing through this city, on a visit to Europe ; which enabled me to be presented to him by Sir Charles Hotham, who has rendered me every assistance, and given me most valu- able information as to that country. That territory appearing to hold forth more pro- spect of success in the cultivation of cotton, 1 have sent up a gentleman possessing the requisite talent, so that he may be enabled to furnish an accurate report as to the facilities that may be there found. Even here, however, 1 would observe that much more attention is being attached to the country of Paraguay, as a rich field of enterprise ; and, as a pio- neer to what we hope may ba continued efforts, a steaflier started from this port yester- 336 , PARAGUAY. There was always a strong presentiment among commercial men in this country that a treaty with Paraguay would be productive of great advantages ; and there is an equally strong conviction still, despite the apprehended obstacles raised by the Buenos Ayrean Government iu respect to the enforced protectorate of the island of Martin Garcia, that the treaty ratified on November 2nd, by Lord Clarendon and his Excellency Don F. Lopez, the accom- pUshed son and representative of the President of Paraguay at the British Court, and a copy of which was presented to parha- ment the opening day of the present Session, by Lord John day to that destination, conveying a company recently arrived from the United States' said to be well supported, consisting of several directors, and conveying with them machines ■ for the cultivation and cleaning of cotton, tobacco, sugar, and rice; sawmills, for making ^ available for export the valuable wood that there so abounds, and other machines suit- able for the development of its resources. If they are once enabled to establish a footing there, and, especially, if the project of steam navigation up our interior rivers is accom- plished, great results may attend these primary efforts. Some of the interior provinces of this confederation have been long said to be most suitable for the cultivation of cotton, and a sample, pronounced to be of very fine quality, from one of them (Tncuman), was last year exhibited in Manchester. I have forwarded, per steamer, another example from the neighbouring province of Catamarca, the lands of which are reported as being capa- ble of producing a much superior article to any other of these States. I consider, how- ever, that a great difficulty will exist in the development of this cultivation, in any of these interior provinces, from the long land carriage required to bring it to an exterior- market. The cost of the best qualities there, as plucked, say with seed, is 7rs. to 8rs. per arroba ; if cleaned up there, as it must be to give the least hope of successful compe- tition, it is calculated that the yield would give about 25 per cent, of gross, thus placing , the cost of an arroba, or 25 lbs., at an average of 30rs. ; expenses of cleaning would be 2rs. ; carriage to Buenos Ayres, per' arroba, 6rs. ; total, 38rs. ; which, taken at to-day's : rate of exchange, would net per lb. 8 l-5d. In Catamarca the cotton tree has been culti- vated regularly, but, attention never having been paid to it as an article of export, the production has never increased. It is a perennial plant, sown in spring, and yielding . the same year. It grows about four feet to five feet high. In the winter it is cut down, but the following spring it shoots up for another year's yield. No great care is paid to it till the time of gathering the pod, when it is regularly plucked. The Paraguay and Corrientes plants are of the same class. The quality of the Corrientes cotton has so far been much inferior. It is, however, in the same latitude, and the soil is represented as being equally fertile, and from its geological position, that province would seem to be the most preferable. The great drawback to the extension of this cultivation will be the want of labour. The population of Cartamarca is not more than iO,000 ; that of Tucu- mau may be estimated at 50,000. But even so, there are so many other articles of pro- duction of great value, and requiring little labour, as tobacco, sugar, &c., that it will be difficult to obtain sufficient hands for the plucking and cleaning, unless expressly imported.- The requirements of the native population are few, and their ambition soon satisfied. It is, therefore, almost impossible to get them to labour for more than their actual wants. That these countries, however, present many facilities and advantages for the extension of this cultivation cannot be doubted ; nor that capital, properly laid out, would, with care and energy, give every prospect of ample profit. But the commencement of this, as of aU other undertakings, requires to be followed up with the greatest energy, and under the personal superintendence of a practical and interested party. Although Mr. Drabble estimates that only 25 per cent, of clean cotton would be obtained from the seed, some gentlemen in Manchester, who have had much acquaintance with the subject, are of opinion that, with such fine growths as the samples already sent home from the dis- trict, the net produce of clean cotton would be much more likely to be one-third of the gross weight than one-fourth, and, consequently, the coat at which cotton could be supplied would be proportionately reduced. PAKAQUAY. 337 Russell,* will, in due time, effect most of the benefits anticipated. But so complete is the ignorance in England of the real mercan- tile resources of Paraguay, that even public writers most disposed to augur well of the treaty in question propagated notions con- cerning that territory so far short of the actual fact, that, if they were true, certain politicians might be almost justified in now pooh-poohing what has been accomplished, just as they did when it was attempted some years ago. For instance, one journal, long celebrated for its supposed peculiarly accurate information on foreign topics, mercantile as well as political, stated, immediately after the ratification of the treaty, as a piece of intelligence of great significance, that Paraguay was the most populous of all the La Plata provinces, ' except Buenos Ayres ' — the truth being that the Paraguayan population exceeds the Buenos Ayrean upwards of * The chief provisions ai'e the following : — British subjects are ii-ee to navigate the banlcs of the rivers of Paraguay. British traders may settle and carry on commerce in any of their towns, instead of being restricted to Assumption, as hitherto. Finally, they may marry the daughters of the country — a privilege from wliich they have until now been debarred. Similar treaties have been made with France, the United States, and Sardinia. This treaty (said an eminent ' Economical' authority at the time it was made known in England,) will help to forward the designs of Bolivia to promote the free navigation of the rivers that run from her territory into the Plate. Could that navigation be opened, it would be something like spreading the advantages conferred by the Missis- sippi on North America over South America. The Plate is formed by the junction of the Parana and the Uruguay. From the Plate to Assumption, the Parana, with its branch the Paraguay, is navigable for 800 miles in the diy season by vessels drawing six feet of water, and in the rainy season by vessels drawing twice as much. Beyond that 800 miles, it is navigable as a canal for 600 miles, almost to its sources in the mountains of Brazil, not far from one of the streams navigable into the heart of Bolivia upwards of 1,000 miles from the Atlantic. The Uruguay is navigable for 300 miles from its junction with the Parana, and there the navigation is stopped by a ledge of rocks which does not affect the level of the stream. Were tliis -impediment removed — and the governments of Brazil and Buenos Ayres are bound by treaty to remove it — the river would be navigable for 300 miles further. Thus together there is an interior navigation fi'om the Plate of at least 1,600 miles, and probably when the countiy shall be fully explored for many hundi*ed more miles, opening up for the use of the closely-pressed people of Europe some of the finest countries of the globe. The great empire of the south, extending through more than thirty degrees of latitude, and in its widest part through thirty degrees of longitude, with a population of about 5,000,000, and a portion of them slaves, is increasing in peo- ple and wealth much faster than the countries on the Plate. It is extending its trade year by year, and may in the end absorb and incorporate the neighbouring republics ; but it is yet far from that consummation. Unless, therefore, some more European life be infused into the countries on the Plate, unless spare hands from England, France, Italy Spain, and Germany, each of which has already supplied some of the scattered population on the Plate, go thither, and bring those countries more into contact with Europe, they are likely to remain only half tenanted for ages. Z 338 PARAGUAY. threefold— exceeds that of all the Argentine States and the Banda Oriental put together ! while, contrary to the general beUef even in South America, its power of consumption is greater than the rest of the interior provinces of the Confederation.* Considering * When Rosas, in his protest, announced that he was preparing great military and naval armaments, with a view of invading and incorporating her in the Argentine Confederation, Paraguay speedily raised an effective army of more than 30,000 men ; and calculating that force at the moderate rate of two per cent, on the entire population, the result is above a million, which, as already stated, is more than double the population of the Argentine provinces and the State of Uruguay united — a fact which explains why it is that Paraguay imports more than all the interior provinces of the Confederation, including the pro- vince, though not the port, of Buenos Ayres itself. The town of Conception has been resuscitated from its decay by the govern- ment founding the town of St. Salvador, on the Paraguay, and covering all the fords by a line of small fortified posts. New works and branches of in- dustry have been commenced, and quarries of calcareous stone, an article which Paraguay, before Fi-ancia's time, imported, are now worked. The Encydo- pcedia Bntannica, now being published, puts down the population of Assump- tion, the capital, at 12,000, whichis certainly considerably under the real number. With an activity and zeal which would do honour to governments better furnished with resources and auxiliary means, the consular government under- took to open new roads, by cutting through the forests to an extraordinary extent, in order to facilitate transit and the trade to the exterior. The road which was opened across the mountain called Caro is twelve leagues in length and fifty feet broad. That which traverses Mount Palomares is thirteen leagues long, and of the same breadth as the first ; and Mount Caagazu has been cut by a road six leagues long and thirty-six feet wide. There is also now approaching completion a road which is passable for carriages from Villa-Bka to the bank of the Parana. Bridges have been constructed over several water- courses and dangerous ravines, and where the breadth of the rivers has been too great, commodious ferries have been established at the expense of the government. In the district of Rosario, where ther^«re many grazing estates, the proprietors were frequently exposed to excessive di-oughts, which occa- sioned the dispersion, mixtm-e, and loss of the herds. The government has had a canal opened from five to six leagues long, and which, serving as a reservoir to many brooks, wiU retain water even in the most terrible droughts. A sunilar route has been carried out in the department of San Estanislao. The government has resolved on founding other new towns, and has over- come the obstacles opposed to the development of others already existing, .such as Villa Franca, which, situated at the bottom of a plam, sufiered much in the rainy season. It opened drains for the stagnant waters, and the soil has been much improved. There is one arrangement which does the gi-eatest honour to the liberalism and equity of the consular government. We may, properly speaking, say that PAHAGUAY. 339 its extreme isolation hitherto, and that modern wi'iters professing to treat of it liave ahnost invariably drawn their information from second-hand or apocryphal sources, it is perhaps but natural that there should be extant but little reliable knowledge respecting I'araguay. In proceeding to supply much of the void complained of, VliiW NiiAE ASSUMPTION. the first fact to which we would draw the attention of mercantile men is, not so much its varied products, many of them most suit- able to British purposes, nor its advantages, peculiarly fitting it to nourish an important commerce, considering itsjfine climate,* fruit- there are no slaves in Paraguay ; the number is not quite certain, but, from the statement of a recent traveller, there would not appear to be more than one thousand in the whole of the territory of the Republic. The consular government, in order to put a stop to slavery in a natural manner, although it be on so small a scale, has declared every child born of slaves to be free, and has prohibited, by a decree, all fresh importations. * The cKmate, which has so much influence on the prosperity of a country, is salubrious, equable, and agreeable. Although tropical, this region is exempt from the fevers which commit such ravages at Havana and New Orleans, and from the earthquakes and hurricanes of the West Indies and other tropical countries. All epidemics are unknown : in fact, the climate of Paraguay is pro- verbially salubrious, one proof of which is, that there is an unusual propor- tionate number of octogenarians, and even centenarians. The British and z -2 340 PARAGUAY. ful soil, and numerous* population, but to the stable and enduring nature of its governmental status. Unlike all the Platine provinces, Paraguay is blest with a government which, though Republican in name and in the forms of its administration, guarantees the preservation of public order ; and is not exposed to those constant revolutionary vicissitudes that have come to be regarded as the normal condition of the neigh- Freuch war-steamers, Locust and Flambart, were lately there for upwards of two months, dm'ing the hottest season, without a single case of serious ill- ness occuring on board. Such, too, was the case when a French steamer was sent up by the British and French Ministers in 1846. Though the heat is great, it is iiiiinitely more bearable than in most parts of the BrazOs ; while all experience goes to show that Europeans become speedily acclimated. * Prolific as are so many portions of South America, there is no one area of anything like the same magnitude to be compared for a moment with Para- guay. Here are cultivated, with an easy success to which the wants of the inhabitants are the only limit, cotton, sugar, indigo, cochineal, and the finest tobacco in the world ; dyes of great value abound, as also various wild plants of the hemp khid, capable of being converted to the greatest utOity ; resinous trees, amongst them several producing the Indian-rubber and gutta-percha gums ; copaiba, rhubarb, and medicinal plants of equal virtue, its sarsapa^ riUa being superior to all others, and its bark having still as high a repute among pharmaceutical savans as when first introduced thence into Europe by the Jesuits towards the middle of the seventeenth centm-y. Plantations of cofi'ee have lately been commenced, and answer excellently. Fruits and grain embrace nearly all that are indigenous to the temperate and the torrid zone ; and the cattle may he multiplied to an indefinite extent if advantage be taken for that purpose of the ilKmitable pasturage — an important consideration just now, bearing in mind the sources of our supply of hides and tallow, whether from the North of Europe or South America itself Direct European inter- course, by means of the Malmeshury treaty, not only promises to be productive of the utmost good to Paraguay proper, but, through Paraguay, to the remotest provinces of the Confederation, and beyond, to the spurs of the Andes. The Vermejo, abeady twice explored, puts Paraguay in communication with the vast provinces of Salta, Jujui, and Tucuman ; and if, as there is good reason to believe, the Pilcomayo is navigable considerably above Paraguay, her com- merce would go straight to the heart of Bolivia. By the river Paraguay itself ships of 200 tons can ascend to Cuiaba, the capital of the BrazUian province of Matto-Grosso ; wliUe the interior of Paraguay is interlaced all over with navigable streams emptying themselves into the great fluvial artery after which the province is named— thus facilitating the transport, in the manner of the Chmese canals, of its produce to the markets of Assumption and the thriving town of Pilar. PARAKUAV. 34 1 bouring powers of Spanish origin. Jlence, to our thinking, the great value of this treaty with a government not only willing but able to realize its intended share in the arrangement. We have not only fully entered into relations with a country new, rich in natural treasures, peopled with a docile race well disposed towards us,* and situate at the head of a vast internal navigation, but we may rely upon the utmost effect being given by the executive to the stipulations it has undertaken to observe, and that the open navigation of the Paraguay and Upper Parana shall be secured to the British flag, free from all alteration or sudden closing of these rivers ; — thus completing that security so essential to success- ful enterprise and speculation. Surely we are not too sanguine in believing that a noble terri- tory geographically so situate, politically so secure under the firm and sagacious guidance of President Lopez,| whose capacity pro- * The natives of Paraguay are docile to their superiors, vigorous, inured to hardship, and intelligent ; at the same time that they are sober, phlegmatic, and not likely to be carried away by enthusiasm. They do not appear to be endowed with that impetuous and exalted valour which seeks to confront danger and death ; they would, therefore, not be well adapted for offensive warfare. But they possess, without any doubt, that severe and immovable intrepidity which sees danger and death without being shaken by them, an in- valuable quality for defensive war, and which, developed by exercise and arms, may in its turn serve for the attack. The Paraguayan is firm and tenacious in his projects : in whatever he undertakes, if he meets with resistance, he grows obstinate, and dies rather than yield or desist. He is insensible to stimulants, and the seduction of immoderate desires. His family, his valley, his country, the government which he idolizes, are all the world to him. He is, however, notwithstanding his apparent phlegm, most susceptible in what- soever he considers to be foreign domination, superioi'ity, or influence, and attributes to contempt the most indifferent act which is repugnant to his habits, his customs, or his interests. He does not, however, evince his resentment by words or cries — he is too concentrated for that ; but still he allows no oppor- tunity to escape of expressing by monosyllables, gestures, or actions, more energetic than words, what is passing at the bottom of his heart. t The first consul, Don Carlos Antonio Lopez, is a rich landed proprietor. He received in his youth, at the College of Assumption, such education as during the first years of this century could be met with in the American colleges. When his studies were concluded, he gave lessons in theology at the same college, and was installed in a chair of, what at that time was termed, philosophy. He afterwards devoted himself particularly to the study of juris- 3 1 2 PARAGUAY. mises to be hereditary, atid affluent in so many of the raw materials of European manufacture and necessity, will speedily develope itself among nations in a manner worthy of its natural endow- ments. The prospective mutual benefits that are likely to be derived from this treaty are of far greater magnitude than appear prudence, and to the profession of an advocate, and exercised it, according^ to general report, with zeal, impartiality, and disinterestedness, which ac- quired him credit, friends, and a select number of clients. When it became dangerous, under the tyranny of the Dictator, to exercise a profession so inde- pendent as that of advocate, M. Lopez retired to his estate, 40 leagues from Assumption, and gave liimself up entirely to agriculture, and to the perusal of the few books which he had been able to procure. He very rarely went to the capital, and then only for a few days. His retired life, the description of seclusion to which he had condemned himself, providentially saved him from the distrust and terrors of the Dictator, and from imprisonment or death, which were their usual consequences. M. Lopez has never quitted his country, and previously he had not taken the smallest share in public affairs. He was unable to make acquaintance with the excellent works published on numerous branches of public administration and political economy, or to obtain the least intelligence of the events which had occurred in Europe and America during the preceding twenty years, for the Dictator persecuted, with more rigour than the Inquisition itself, men of learning and their books, and neither one nor the other had been able to penetrate Paraguay. Nevertheless, the acts and writings of M. Lopez have shown that he was no stranger to sound doctrines of administration, and that he had meditated in his retreat on the situation of his country, its necessities, the evils it suffered, and their causes, as well as on the remedies which it would be possible to apply to them. Such qualities would naturally acquire for him an ascendancy and preponderance in the manage- ment of affairs ; and, thus acquired, he has exercised them discreetly and vigorously. The second consul, Don Mariano Roque Alonzo, was a soldier who reckoned many years service in barracks and garrisons. He commanded a corps or battalion of the troops which occupied the capital, when his companions in arms appointed him Commandant-General in the interval between the death of the Dictator and the assembly of Congress. During this short period he main- tained public order, and protected the tranquillity of the citizens with zeal and moderation. Like a man of good sense and honour, and of docile character, he at once acknowledged the superiority of his colleague, which of itself is a merit, and always deferred to it, in which he rendered a great service to hia country. In 1844, Congress again assembled, and elected M. Lopez president, a re- newal of confidence which his excellent conduct in the interval of years that had elapsed since his iirst election fully justified ; and the same may, of course, be said of his subsequent re-election. PAEAGirAY. 113 to be generally Tinderstood in Eno-land, or perhaps oven in Para- guay itself, although they must, in a great measure, depend on the spirit in which the new reciprocal relations may be cultivated and extended ; but, bo the result Avliat it may hereafter, we have abundant reason to be grateful for the exertions of Sir Charles Hotham in having done so much to lay the foundation of future commercial prosperity. Probably opposition will continue to be made by Buenos Ayres to the execution of the other treaty with Urquiza, although the active energies of Sir Charles were, in both cases, exerted only for the obvious mutual advantage (jf all parties concerned ; but as regards the Paraguay treaty, at all LOOKING TOWARDS ASSUMPTION. events, no such obstacles ai'e to be ajiprehended. The government of Paraguay have constantly shown a laudable desire to establish European intimacy, which circumstances not depending upon itself have too long delayed. Had the project so wisely enter- tained, and so vigorously promoted, as far as his power extended, by our able Minister at Monte Video in l.S4:5-(3, been prosecuted to the end, and the independence of Paraguay recognized by the British Government in conformity with the wishes of Sir W. Gore Ouseley, when, in conjunction witli Baron Defamhs, the French Minister. Captain (now Sir C.i Hotliaui was sent to 344 PAHAGl'AY. Assumption, to treat with President Lopez, there can be no ques- tion that many of the subsequent troubles and difficulties of tlie La Plata question would have been altogether obviated ; Rosas would long ago have been expelled ; his vast property (the non- sequestration of which was the grand error of Urquiza) would not have been employed to promote the revolutionary intrigues it has since done, but which it will do no longer, as it is now confiscated ; and Paraguay, instead of merely being about entering on its no- ^■iciate, would have had seven years', experience of reciprocity with the old world by this time. By selecting Sir C. Hotham for the mission to Paraguay, Lord Malmesbury virtually continued, in the person of the vei'y officer chosen for that purpose, the commercial policy initiated in '45-6 by Sir AV. G. Ouseley. On that occasion, as more recently, the English were received by the Paraguayans with the greatest cor- diality, though at the same time with a reserve not unbecoming a people whose amour propre was wounded by their independence not being recognized in the first instance. Once that all-essential formality was complied with, negotiations proceeded as satisfac- torily as could be desired. It is understood that when the Para- guayan Envoys were sent to Monte Video in '46 to treat with our then Minister there, Sir William suggested that a number of dis- tinguished young natives should be sent to England, that they might judge of our institutions and commercial spirit for themselves, and report to him that this country had, and could have, no sinister motive to serve by a treaty with Paraguay. Concurring in that opinion, President Lopez wisely caused his son, the minister pleni- potentiary to this court. General Lopez, to be accompanied by a numerous suite of mihtary officers and civilians, together with a younger brother of the General's, as secretary, full of intelligence, and by M. GeUi, a veteran diplomatist. The General, though a young man, has for some years been commander-in-chief of the Paraguayan forces, and is said to manifest great ability and a large faculty of observation, evincing a keen desire to obtain in- formation on all subjects likely to be of benefit to his country. He BRIGADIER GENERAL FRANCISCO SOLANO LOI'EZ, ENVOY EXTRAORDINARY AND MINISTER I'LENIFOTENTIAKY OF THE RErUBLIC OF PARAGUAY, 346 PARAGUAY. made a very favourable impression in England, and still more so in France, where he was received with the greatest distinction, the Emperor, Napoleon the Third, according him public and pri- vate audiences amidst the most imposing ceremonial of state. He is now (April, 1854,) engaged in making a tour in Italy, and through the continent; and in the course of the present summer will re- turn to Paraguay, his naturally fine mind stored with the fruits of an observant and diversified experience, and his excellent disposi- tion in no way deteriorated, it is to be hoped, by his acquaintance with the peoples of the old world. Whoever has any knowledge of the history of the American republics, and of the Spanish language, will not fail to remark in Paraguay a rare and singular circumstance, which does great honour to its men of the sword,* and must inspire confidence in the future stability of authority in the country. The mihtary in all the new American states have always shown, without any exception, * In 1849, when the army of Paraguay gave signs of life by occupying a part of the province of Corrientes, to protect the introduction of a large convoy of mili- tary equipments purchased from Brazil by the president. General Rosas, who had laughed at the army of Paraguay, found nothing to oppose to it when it appeared but a defensive attitude. At the present time that army, from its acquh'ements and discipline, is the envy of the armies of the diiferent nations of South America. A treaty of alliance, offensive and defensive, entered into somewhat later with the BrazUs, and ratified by the Emperor, revealed the existence of Paraguay to the political world, since this treaty had for its basis the preservation of the nationality of the Oriental State. The Dictator had a great number of men under arms ; but there was no army or any military organization of any kind, and the soldiery was allowed to oppress the other classes. On the other hand, it happened with the military service, as with all other branches of the administration, that there were no other laws nor rules than the capricious will of the Dictator : there was no law to fix the term of service ; the private soldiers had already served a long time, and had a right to their discharge. Detachment and garrison duty, even ui the remotest parts of the frontiers, was performed without any turn of service or regularity. The troops remained there sometimes as long as fifteen years without being relieved, and without receiving any other assistance or pay than a meagre ration of meat. The consular government gradually allowed these officers and soldiers to retire, and replaced them with 3,000 men, obtamed by recruiting. The officers who had served for long periods had small pensions awarded them, and the longest term for the most distant detachments was re- duced to three vears. PARAGUAY. 347 a propensity most fatal to order, that of making and unmaking governments without consulting the opinions and wishes of their fellow-citizens, only those of the chiefs of certain factions with whom they may concert their plans. Here, on the contrary, so soon as the first case, and the most extraordinary one which it is possible to imagine, occurred, the men of the sword did not usurp the right of creating and establishing the supreme authority. They set the example of calling together an assembly of their fellow- countrymen to take the opinion and votes of the country, and sub- mit themselves to the authorities which the general wishes might elect. The new administration had all to create, because everything had been destroyed. The dictator left neither individuals or materials of any description, of which the government that suc- ceeded him could avail themselves.* Everything was in disorder as an effect of the monstrous centralization in his person alone of all the branches of the administration. High and low, policy, justice, finances, war, ecclesiastical matters, in fine all was absorbed ; nothing was done by any one but him. There was not a single individual who had been enabled to acquire any practice, any routine for the dispatch of business, as there were no fixed and general principles to serve as guides for particular cases which * The Dictator died in 1840, at the age of 85, of apoplexy, leaving the country in the most dangerous crisis in which a nation can find itself, that of complete ' acephalousness ' (being without a head). Exclusively occupied with himself, the Dictator had neither foreseen nor prepared anything for oases so easy to anticipate as illness or death. Nevertheless, there were no parties in Paraguay ; neither violent reactions nor disorders have been seen there, which has, with reason, surprised all the world. Nor did the country return to the subjection of Buenos Ayres, which, however, is suiRciently explained by the character of the inhabitants. The moment the Dictator was dead, his ' actuario,' (the person through whom all business with Prancia was transacted,) who doubtless desired to follow out his system, and succeed him under the name and shadow of some mUitary chiefs, suggested to the four commandants of four of the ' corps d'armee ' which occupied the capital the idea of self-electing themselves into authority and forming a government. The advice pleased these officers; they added' an alcalde to their number, elected the president, and composed u, governmental junta, of which the ' actuario ' made himself secretary. But neither the junta nor the secretary knew how to, or were able to, maintain their footing. The junta itself had 348 PARAGUAY. presented tliemselves, everything depending on the caprice or will of the dictator, who only employed people as scribes, little else been installed but a few days when it decreed the arrest of its own secretary, who knowing well, doubtless, what he deserved, hung himself in prison. The other military chiefs soon made those who formed the junta imperatively feel the necessity of convoking a congress, and of doing so by an authority not confined to theirs. After some hesitation, the natural consequence of the acephalous state of the country, these military chiefs named a ' Commandant General of Arms,' without any administrative authority, and with no other attribute than that of convoking a congi-ess within a given time, and of watching in the interval over the maintenance of public order. This new per- sonage did not fail to execute the orders he had received, and convoked a congress in March, 1841, six months after the death of the Dictator. This congress, composed of 500 members, elected directly by imiversal suffrage, hastened to satisfy the first necessity of Paraguay, that of an authority to take the cause of the country and its administration in hand ; and the void, so full of danger to the public weal, was filled up. A government, composed of two consuls, was immediately appointed, and no other obligation was imposed on it than that of ' maintaining and defending the independence and integrity of the Republic,' and which it was to swear before being formally inducted into office. Finally, the congress had the wisdom to consider its task to be thus terminated, and it added nothing to the duties of the consuls thus elected than a recommendation to encourage public education, relying for the rest on the conscience and knowledge of these magistrates. A consular government, composed of two individuals, with identical rights and attributes, but who unavoidably differed in character, ideas, and edu- cation, was eminently defective, and carried within itself the germs of great inconveniences and dangers to the State. But, liappUy, it produced none, thanks to the deference and docility of one magistrate, the prudence and supe- riority of the other, and the short duration of their term of office, wliich was but for three years. During the Dictatorship education had been altogether abandoned; the establishments devoted to instruction had been closed, and then- resom'ces diverted to other pm'poses. Lopez established primary schools, and laid the foundation for a college ; and two Jesuits arriving about 1844, one of them took charge of a school for mathematics ; but they left the country in 1846. Religion and public worship, which exercise so much influence on the morality of a people, were suffering much from the want of spiritual advisers. At the death of the Dictator there were only fifty priests in Paraguay, all old, and several verging on decrepitude. Many churches in the country, even in populous parishes, were closed for want of pastors. The consular government hastened to remedy so great an evil : it commenced negotiations with the Holy See, and presented two priests for consecration as bishops; one, as diocesan, and the other as coadjutor. In the meantime it pressed the head of the bishopric to extend to those parishes which were destitute of pastors the jurisdiction of tlie nearest rectors. PAliACiUAY ;mi) tluiu the merest copying clerks. No person luul obtiuiicd tlio least instruction, or the least experience, to enable him to pro])are, and facilitate the labonr of the government departments, and t)ie dispatch of business. With these difficulties to encounter, the new governmeiit set to work wdth enei'gy, but without noise or ostentation. It did not announce itself by the pi-oclamation of pompous promises. It would have been imprudent to arouse hopes which might only be realized in time, and in spite of many obstacles. It did not set up theories and doctrines of an exaggerated liberalism, which sub- se(|ucntly, besides their being at first ill understood, it might have CHURCH OF THE EECOLETA — BUKIAI^-GROUiND — NEAR ASSUJIPTION. itself been obhged to abandon in practice. It did not allow the smallest sign of blame or disapprobation of the conduct of the dictator to transpire. It would have been useless, and even set- ting a bad example, to abuse his memory, and awaken the I'emem- brance of irreparable evils. We may beheve that the Consular Government wished to be judged according to its acts, and not by its proclamations and dissertations. Some small capital of which no one had suspected the existence was soon seen to appear and circulate, and this gave much im- 350 PAEAGXIAY. pulse to industry and occupation to labourers, who, until then, had been unable to find any. The apparition of these little capitals, and the activity which ensued, were sure signs of confidence in public order, and in the government. Instead of the inaction and apathy which previously reigned, a spirit of enterprise and ani- mation was every where seen. Assumption was cleared of the ruins and rubbish which rendered its aspect disgusting. The spaces left by buildings half demolished were masked by walls, and new habitations were raised, modest in truth, but which gave an air of life to the city. Although there is no saying much with accuracy of the present revenue of Paraguay,* it is certain that it sufiaces to meet its public ordinary expenses, which cannot be more moderate. Paraguay has not that numerous body of employes which has been, and is stUl, a cancer gnawing into the heart of the new states which so proudly clothe themselves with the title of repubUcs. Her func- tionaries are not numerous. They mostly receive but very slender emoluments, either because living is very cheap in Paraguay, or * The revenue of Paraguay is derived principally from the duties levied on goods imported and exported, (the former of which ought to be considerably modified, and the latter reduced to almost nothing,) stamped paper, shop- keepers' licences, the tithe of the produce of the soil, and the ' half-annaata ' tax (half the value of the waste lands granted by government) ; but we are, as yet, ignorant of the details, no statistical documents being yet published in the Republic. There is also, however, another and not inconsiderable branch of revenue, viz. : the monopoly enjoyed by government of the sale of 'mate,' or Paraguay tea. It pm-chases this herb as prepared in the forests of the state, and when well packed and in good condition, at a given price, and disposes of it to the merchants for exportation, as well as to the consumers, at the rate of seven rials per arrobe. What will at a later period constitute incalculable wealth for Paraguay are its lands and forests : it will derive a very considerable revenue from them. More than half of the surface of the territory is public property, comprising immense forests of timber, of the most varied and valued kinds, within reach of navigable rivers. These lands at present are of little value ; but they will speedUy acquire a much greater, for the president has adopted a, very wise system of disposing of them, viz., granting them to applicants at a perpetual ground-rent of five per cent, on the amount at which they are valued by competent persons. This plan will greatly facilitate then- sale. PARAGUAY. 351 because offices are there considered rather as pubhc duties to fulfil, than places which, to be well filled, should be well remunerated. The judges are annually selected amongst the inhabitants of the different districts, of divers professions, without any necessity for their engaging in preliminary studies, or for their being previously destined for the magistracy, and the government allows them only what is indispensable for their office expenses and the dispatch of business, without any fees being paid by the parties concerned. When the service requires more functionaries, and those of special capacity, who will have to devote themselves exclusively to the duties of their employments, the pubhc treasury will be better provided, and in a better position to remunerate those whom the government will have to employ.* Whatever may be the sum, however, at present produced by each branch of the revenue, it cannot but increase, and rapidly, not only in consequence of the development of those things on which duties are chargeable, but also because, with time and ex- perience, the distribution of the taxes, &c., will be improved.! They will be convinced of a truth long accepted in pohtical economy, * The consular government opened the world to men who had been separated from it for thirty years, through the complete isolation in which Francia kept the country; internal communications and relations, which were limited to the most indispensable acts of material life, were relieved from the dan- gers and obstacles which tended to restrict and paralyse them. Access to Stapua was permitted to every one who desired to betake himself to that market, and navigation to all who desu'ed to export the produce of the country. The idea and the hope of seeing commerce spring up anew, alone sufficed to reanimate the spii-its and awaken the minds of men long benumbed imder an oppressive yoke. This renewal of hope and labom' was, in a great measure, due to the encouragement given to the consular government. There were families fallen into a state of poverty bordering on utter destitution ; the government came to their assistance by causing to be distributed amongst them more than three thousand head of cattle ; and in goods, instruments, and tools, to the value of more than twenty-two thousand dollars. They were thus set up again, and enabled to resume their labours. t The administration of justice at Paraguay is as simple as it naturally ought to be with a people whose civil relations are few in number and little compli- cated ; but the increase of property and the complication of relations will requii-e tribunals more learnedly organized. What the consular government did 352 PARAGUAY. but which does not the less pass for paradoxical, elsewhere than in Paraguay, viz. : that duties, when moderate and properly col- lected, are much more productive than high ones. It was perhaps this principle which gave rise to the reform in- troduced by the President's Government in the Tariff. That of 1841, which was imprinted with the doctrines of the protectionist school, was reformed and reduced by M. Lopez in 1846. That of 1841, not content with establishing very heavy duties on the generality of articles imported, and on all those exported, was in- tended to favour, at the expense of all, some hatters and vine- dressers who made bad hats and still worse wine, and levied a duty of 40 per cent, on wines and hats imported. The Tariff of 1846 has remedied these evils, and diminished the duties in general, but they are still too heavy, especially those on exports, which ought to be reduced almost to nothing.* sufficed to create legal order, and put an end to the reign of force and arbitrary sway, which the Dictator had substituted for the rule of justice ; but iu criminal trials an innovation was introduced, which, although imperfect, will be perfected in time, when education has made greater advance, and which wiU incontest- ably serve as a basis for the institution of the jury, the source of so many bene- fits. It was ordained, that in order to pronounce criminal sentences, the judge should associate with himself two individuals, drawn by lot out of a list pre- viously made. The confiscations under the Dictator, the enormous fines which he imposed, and which were equivalent to confiscation, had reduced a, great number of families to misery ; the consular government restored such property as yet existed, and adjudged some indemnities for those which had been dis- posed of; the rural estates which had been applied to the public service, and which it would not have been convenient to withdraw, were purchased from the former and legitimate possessors. This striking act of equity alone com- pleted a revolution in the social and admiuistrative order of Paraguay. * The government which succeeded Francia's despotism, and of which M. Lopez was the head, did not allow the least sign of blame or disapprobation of the Dictator's conduct to transpire. It would indeed have been useless, and have set a bad example, to abuse his memory and awaken a remembrance of irreparable evils. From the death of the Dictator to the installation of the consulate, all per- secution, as well as the sanguinary executions and fusillades, so common during Francia's tyrannical sway, had ceased. But the political prisoners, to the number of more than 600, had not been released, with four or five exceptions, and suffered the same evils in the dungeons and casemates. When the consids, however, were elected, they released all these political prisoners, and sent them PAEAGUAT. 353 Respecting the trade that may be expected to ensue between this country and Paraguay, I am not fanatical enough to suppose that it will be either very rapid or very extensive at first. But, at the same time, as little can I share the apprehensions of a Buenos Ayrean writer quoted in the leading English journal on the arrival of the mail of the 16th of this month, (April, 1854,) that because certain mercantile ventures to the Parana had not proved lucrative, therefore the means of the inhabitants, and, by infer- ence, of Paraguay also, were at a very low ebb, and that there was an indisposition to commerce. The same consequences, and from the same causes, were observable in China on the first partial opening of intercourse with that empire. The markets were not suited with proper goods and were glutted with superfluities. As to Paraguay, at all events, we know that both the taste and the means exist in the indulgence of what among so comparatively simple a people may be considered great luxuries.* Opportunity alone was wanted ; and now that that opportunity is afforded, and that European wealth will be forthcoming for the numerous indi- genous commodities so much required in this quarter of the world, there can be no doubt that all reasonable expectations formed by the parties to the Malmesbury treaty, and by those who long ago laboured to bring such treaties about, will soon begin to be realized. to their families. It was a significant act. It showed to all that the reign of cruelty and terror had given place ia the counsels of the government to prin- ciples of nuldness and sound policy. It was natural that the agents and em- ployes of the Dictator should have inspired resentments and profound hatred hy the pitiless way in which they had executed the orders they had received ; and complaints did begin to be heard against some of the officials for the abuse they had made of their authority. * Prom the crowd of rank and fashion, I had a good opportunity of observing the costumes. The limited intercourse between this part of South America and other lands has, of late years, degenerated to almost entire seclusion. It would, therefore, be unreasonable to expect the inhabitants could procure dresses of equal beauty to those of more favoured nations. But the country manufactures of which the garments were principally formed, though com- paratively coarse, were very elaborately worked by hand, and, consequently, infinitely dearer than female attire of the same quality in Europe. For example, a small coarse towel, or napkin, embroidered or worked all round by hand, was worth a doubloon, or ounce of gold, equal, nearly, to four pounds sterling. — Robertson. 2 a SIR CHARLES HOTHAM, K.C.B. This distinguished officer, now Goyernor of the Australian Colony of Vic- toria, comes of an ancient ancestry, many members of whom attained emi- nence in that special branch of the public service in which he himself has a^uired such deserved repute. Indeed, there are few families that have for so long a time, and for such a continuance, given so many servants to the state. As early as the reign of Edward n., we find that John de Hotham, great grandson of the first of the name, who settled at the family seat of Hotham, Yorkshire, was Bishop of Ely, Treasurer of the Exchequer, and sub- sequently Lord Chancellor to Edward lU. Sir John Hotham, the first baronet. Governor of Hull, who had five wives, was beheaded on Tower-hiU, together with his son. Sir John Hotham, Knt., by the Parliamentarians, for correspond- ing with the Royalists, in 1643. His grandson and successor married into the noble family of Beaumont, in Ireland, and hence the Irish peerage, which the present Lord Hotham, member for the East-Riding of Yorkshire, and imcle of Sir Charles, retains, his lordship being a major-general in the army, and having served at Waterloo. Of the many naval officers in the family, both in direct descent and collaterally, the most celebrated was the Rt. Hon. William, Baron Hotham, of South Dalton, in the peerage of Ireland, so created 7th March, 1797, with remainder, in default of direct descendants, to the heirs male of his deceased father, in consideration of his gallant achieve- ments, as a naval commander, at the commencement of hostilities with repub- lican France. Having previously attained the rank of rear-admiral, he was advanced to that of admiral of the white, appointed second in command of the fleet ordered to the Mediterranean, under Lord Hood, of which he ob- tained the chief command a few months afterwards, upon Lord Hood's return to England; and but a short time subsequently elapsed until Admiral Hotham had the good fortune to bring the French squadron to action (14th March, 1795), and to obtain a decisive victory over it, for which he received the thanks of both houses of parliament, and was made admiral of the blue. He died, unmarried, in 1813, and was succeeded by his brother Beaumont, Lord Hotham, father of the present Lord Hotham, M.P., and of the late Vice- Admiral Hotham, who was, consequently, uncle of the subject of the present sketch, of whom the annexed particulars are taken from the great nautical professional authority, ' O'Byrne's Naval Biography :' ' Sir Charles Hotham, bom in 1806, is eldest son of the Rev. Fras. Hotham, Prebendary of Rochester (second son of the second Lord Hotham, one of the Barons of the Court of Exchequer), by Anne EKzabeth, eldest daughter of rhos. Hallett Hodges, Esq., of Hemsted Place, Kent; and first cousin of SIB CHARLES HOTHAM, K.C.B. 355 Capt. Hon. Geo. Fred. Hotham, R.N. Sir, Charles, who is brother-iu-law of Lieut.-Col. Grrieve, of the 75th Regt., has also a brother, Augustus Thomas Hotham, in the army. This officer entered the navy 6 Nov., 1818; and on the night of the 23 May, 1824, when midshipman of the Naiad, 46, Captain Robert Cavendish Spencer, served in the boats under Lieut. Michael Quin at the gallant destruction of a 16-gun brig, moored in a position of extraordinary strength alongside the walls of the fortress'of Bona, in which was a garrison of about 400 soldiers, who, from cannon and musket, kept up a tremendous fire, almost perpendicularly, on the deck. He was made lieutenant, 17 Sept., 1825, into the Revenge, 76, flag-ship of Sir Harry Burrord Neale in the Mediterranean; and next appointed — 15 May, 1826, to theMedma, 20, Capts. Timothy Curtis and Wuliam Burnaby Greene, on the same station — and, 8 Dec. 1827, and 26 July, 1828, as first, to the Terror and Meteor bombs, Capts. Wm. Fletcher and David Hope. As a reward for his distinguished exertions on the occasion of the wreck of the Terror, Mr. Hotham was promoted by the Lord High Admiral to the rank of commander on the 13th of August, 1828. After an interval of half-pay he obtained an appointment on the 17th of March, 1830, to the Cordelia, 10, and returned to the Mediterranean, whence he ultimately came home and was paid oif in October, 1833 — having been raised to post-rank on 28 of the preceding June, in compliment to the memory of his uncle, the late Viee-Admiral Hon. Sir Henry Hotham, G.C.B., G.C.M.G. His next appointment was, 25 Nov. 18)i3, to the Gorgon steam-sloop, stationed on the S.E. coasit of America. In Nov., 1845, having assumed command of a small squadron, he ascended the rJver Parana, in con- junction with a French naval force under Capt. Trehouart, and on 20 of that month, after a hard day's fighting, succeeded in effecting the destruction of four heavy batteries belonging to General Rosas at Punta Obligado, also of a schooner-of-war carrying 6 guns, and of 24 vessels chained across the river. Towards the close of the action he landed with 180 seamen and 145 marines, and accomphshed the defeat of the enemy, whose numbers had originally con- sisted of at least 3,600 men, in cavalry, infantry, and artillery, and whose batteries had mounted 22 pieces of ordnance, including 10 brass guns, which latter were taken off to the ships, the remainder being all destroyed. The loss of the British in this very brilliant affair amounted to 9 men killed and 24 wounded. In acknowledgment of the gallantry, zeal, and ability displayed throughout its various details by Capt. Hotham, he was recommended in the most fervent terms of admiration by his Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral S. Hood Inglefield, in his despatches to the Admiralty, and he was in con- sequence nominated a K.C.B. 9 March, 1846. Since 13 May in that year he has been employed as commodore on the coast of Africa, with his broad pen- nant successively flying ia the Devastation and Penelope steamers. While Sir Chas. Hotham was in the Gorgon, that vessel was blown far on shore in a hurricane at Colonia, and it was only by the most indomitable and procrasti- nated exertion on the part of himself and his crew that she was saved.* The glorious and almost unequalled, and certainly unique, exploits in the Parana, here alluded to, are far too important to be passed over so summarily as in the preceding paragraph, especially as, in a work of this nature, the 356 SIR CHABLES HOTHAM, K.C.B. history of these transactions, however brief, serves to fm-nish some interesting information respecting one of the most celebrated and remarkable sites in the entire of that navigation which tbe diplomatic skiU of the same com- mander has since opened to the commerce of the world no less effectually than did his gallantry to the combined fleets of England and Prance seven years previously. Full professional details of the operations will be found in Mackinnon's ' Steam Warfare in the Parana,' published in 1848, in which the writer says : — ' The gi'eat secret of the success which crowned almost every effort, with one miserable exception, was due, firstly, to tlie excellent arrange- ments which, by the powers of steam, were so perfectly and expeditiously carried out ; and, secondly, to tlie admu-able nature of the ordnance, and the skUful application of its different brandies. Where the leader is of great ability, and possesses the confidence of tliose under his command, coupled with such materiel and personnel as Sii' Charles Hotham had in his control, it is not by any means astonishing that everything succeeded admirably. It is rare, too, for a British officer to combine the talent for languages which Sir Charles Hotham possesses in such an eminent degree, with the perse- verance and skiU recently evinced in tlie extraordinary recovery of H. M. ship Gorgon, and in tlie after operations in the Parana.' A still more emphatic and authoritative tribute to the genius of Sii- Charles is supplied by the diplomatist under whose mstruction he acted at the time, and who, as we have already seen [see ante], had previously availed himself of his services in the then attempted initiation of that European intercourse whose subsequent consummation has indissolubly associated the name of Hotham mtli the peaceful as well as the warlike annals of South America. Appended is Sir W. G. Ouseley's graphic account of the passage of the Parana at Obligado, the writer being lavish of praise on everybody, but silent as regards himself, who was really responsible in every respect for the concep- tion and organization, if not for the execution, of tlie whole design. . . „ - i provinces c_ the opposite bank. A blockade of the capital only of Buenos A^-res, and of its River PJatS shores would, of course, be nugatorj' unless enforced along tlie course of the Parana as far as the limits of that province extend. Eeinforceinents of troops, horses, artillery, and warlike stores of all soi-ts, would continue to be sent across the Parana into the pro- vince of Entre Rios, from whence continually to renew and supply the Buenos AjTeaa anny invading the Baiida Oriental and besieging Monte Video. To pi-event this and ultimately cause a cessation of these disastrous hostilities it was necessary to blockade the whole fluvifl coast of the province of Buenos Ayres. In order, therefore, to effect this blockade a small combined squadron of French and English vessels was detached from the force in the River Plate to occupy the Parana, as far as tile effectual enforcement of the blockade of the pi-ovjnce of Buenos Ajtcs might require. The boundaiy between tlie province of Buenos Ayres and that of Santa Fe strikes the Pai-ana at the ' Arroyo del Medio." This division, marked by a brook ruiming into the river, is about thirty or forty miles above the turn in the Parana, called the ' Vuelta de Obligado,' wliich it was of course necessary to pass in order to reach the limits of the prorince. It was deter- mined by the Government of Buenos Ayres to prevent the combined squadron from pro- ceeding .beyond th,e pass of Obligado if possible. But although the pi-eparations for de- fence could not but have been known to hundreds, long previous to the declaration of the bloolia^e, as well as the fact of works being in progress for barring the passage, the con- struction of batteries, and placing the chain cables, vessels, &e., all of which must have occupied much time, it is remarkable tliat no information whatever as to the plan or real nature ol the jatejided obstruction could be obtained either at Buenos Ayres or Monte SIK CHABLES HOTHAM, K.C.B. 357 Video, Vague rvunours didnreach the admirals commanding in chief, and other officers, of preparations in progress, but some reported that vessels were sunk in the channel, others said that forts or batteries were in course of construction at every commanding point on the river ; in fa«t, the true natui'e of the intended resistance was entirely un- known, until some boats which preceded the squadron when proceeding up the river were fired upon a few miles below Obligado, at a place called San Pedro. And even then it was not believed that any serious opposition would be attempted to the advance of the blockading flotilla. However, when, once the fire had been opened by the Buenos Ayreans at Obligado it became of course necessary to return it, and the result was the general engagement that ensued. When it is recollected that the scale on which the de- fences had been prepared was quite unexpected, and that the Buenos Ayrean force em- ployed was much greater than was anticipated (amounting to about 4,000 men), while tlie nature of the other obstacles to be encountered was previously unknown, it will be evident that the skill and experience of the able officer who commanded the squadron were put to a severe test, and that it required his well concerted arrangements in the plan of attack and the gallantry displayed in carrying them into effect, to obtain the success- ful result that added to the high professional reputation of Sir Charles Hotham, already too well known to need any tribute here. It must also be borne in mind, in order to form a just estimate of this successful engagement, that with the exception of the steamers and a corvette, the major part of the force consisted of a mere flotilla of small vessels, armed for the purpose of ascending the river, and that they were for several hours exposed at no great distance to a heavy and well-directed fire from formidable and skilfully planned batteries. It is, however, needless here to give any detailed description of the action that resulted in the destruction of the batteries and other defences at this place. The despatches of the commanders of the English and French squadrons, Sir Charles Hotham and Admiral Tr^houart, were published at the time, and give a clear account of the manner in which the affair was conducted, showing the skill and great gallantry manifested generally throughout this affair. Across the pass from the Buenos -4yrean shore and batteries to the wooded island in the plan and sketch, a number of coasting vessels and river craft, chiefly Sardinian, as are most of that class of vessels in those rivers, were moored, supporting four large chain cables, solidly fastened to the shore on either side, thus presenting no trifling barrier to the passage up the river. On the right bank (i. e. on the Buenos Ayrean side) were constnicted four batteries, of which two were close to the level of the water, and all well placed for defending the approach to the barrier of chains and boats. On the opposite, or Entre Kios bank, above the chains were anchored a brig of war and some gun boats, with heavy guns, out of the line of fire from the opposite batteries, but well placed for the annoyance of any attacking force. The brig was anchored off the Entre Rios shore, near an island, between which and the main land the water was too shallow to admit of the brig and gun-boats being attacked from that side. ■ The batteries, four in number, mounted, according to the despatch of Gen. Mancilla, the Buenos Ayrean Commander-in-Chief, twenty-nine guns ; the vessel had six mounted on one broadside, which, with field-pieces posted in the woods, made for(y-two guns. The guns were well manned and served, chiefly by Europeans and North Americans, and troops to the number of about 3 or 4,000 lined the Buenos Ayrean shore. Some of the smaller vessels were fired upon as they approached the batteries ; this was of course returned, and then commenced the action, which lasted for several" hours, and was kept up with much spirit by the Buenos Ayrean batteries, until the fire of some of their guns was silenced, when boats were sent to break the chains, which service was gallantly f.ffeoted under a heavy fire, and ultimately parties of English marines and seamen, find subsequently French,) were landed, and, led by Sir Charles Hotham, succeeded in completely driving the Buenos Ayreans from their guns and oblig- mg thett forces to retire, and the flotilla passed up the river. This very arduous service was performed in the coolest and most effectual manner by Capt. J. Hope, of the ' Fire- brand,' Mr. Nicholson, with two engineers of the 'Gorgon,' and a few men, who proceeded m small boats, under a most gallmg fire, deliberately to break the chains with cold chisels and sledge-hammers, after an attempt to saw them had failed. The depth of water at Obligado is about twenty-five fathoms, in some places (and at certain seasons) much more. The stream runs at about four knots, which was of course an additional source of difficulty, especially to the sailing vessels and boats. Continuing the biographical notice of Sir C. Hotham from the point at winch Lieut. O'Byrne leaves off, it is only necessary to add, that in April, 1852, he was appointed plenipotentiary in that mission with tlie record and anticipation of whose results so large a portion of the present volume is occupied. The mode in which he discharged that delicate and important 358 SIR CHARLES HOTHAM, K.C.B. trust recommended him to Her Majesty's present advisers as the most fit and proper person for probably as difficult and onerous a duty as it is possible for the crown to expect at the hands of a public servant at the present moment, viz., the Governorship of Victoria, a colony that presents innumerable phases of social and political transmutation and anomaly, of which history affords not only no parallel, but nothing' in the least degree approximating to its simili- tude. If Sir Charles had been at liberty to foUow the bent of his own incli- nation, if he did not feel that to decline such a service would in some measure embarrass the executive, it is considered that he would have preferred, in these stirring times, seeking the probable repetition of such incidents as the Pass of Obligado, and with foes more worthy of his hereditary fame than he then encountered. The crest of the house of Hotham is, according to the heralds, a demi-seaman issuing out of the water, holding in his dexter-hand a flaming sword : — supporters, two seamen, habited, and each holding a sword, the point resting on the gi-ound, the motto being the significant shibboleth, ' Lead on.' Sir Charles married, in 1853, the Hon. Jane Sarah, (bom 1817) relict of Hugh Holbech, Esq., and daughter of Lord Bridport, a name Ulus- triou.s in nautical annals, and allied by marriage to one stiU more famous, that of Nelson ; the motiier of the present Lady Charles Hotham being niece of the victor of Trafalgar, and now Duchess of Bronte. THE EKilZILEIPwV ON HER EETUEN VOYAGE. CHAPTER XV. HOIVIEWAED BOU^T). Departure from Buenos A}Tes. — Arrival at Monte Video. — Guano deposits of Patagonia. — Bahia Blanca.— Eligibility of the district for an overland route to Chili. — Chilian grant for direct steam communication with Eng'- land. — Accessions to steam navigation on the Brazilian coast. — Opening of the Amazon. — Departure from Monte Video. — Rough wind and heavy sea. Aspect of Raza under various lights and shades. — Hotel accommodation of Rio Janeiro A wet day at Bahia. — Consular memoranda on Venezuela, Bolivia, and Equador. _ Arrival at Pernambueo, and meeting with the Olinda. — Arrival at Porto Grande. — Seven days' steaming against the ■wind — Madeira in the distance. — Arrival at Belem. — Miseries and absurd- ities of the quarantine system. — Towing the Pilot astern — Passage up St. George's Channel.— Arrival in the Mersey Loss of tlie Olinda and the Argentina. — Kew ocean and river steamers. 360 HOMEWAED BOXJND. BuBNOs Atbes being the extent of my mission, and expecting the Brazileira so soon at Monte Video, I hastened my departure for Monday, the 27th September, when we embarked early, with a very heavy surf, caused by the northerly wind blowing right on shore. Few passengers would venture off, and it took me nearly an hour to reach the Argentina, in a good boat, pulled by stalwart rowers, than whom there are few better than the Buenos Ayreans, thanks to the perpetual practice required in their perilous road- stead of a harbour. For a place with shallow water, I never saw so heavy a surf, which renders it most uncomfortable to those who may be compelled to embark under such circumstances. We had a fresh breeze the greater part of the way, increasing to a strong one as we approached the moimt of Monte Video, reaching it at dark, so as to get into that excellent haven. This, however, we did quite safely, and landed our passengers in buoyant spirits, and full of admiration of our craft's performance, in the face of such difficulties. Next morning was wet and hazy, but on its clearing off at about eleven o'clock we were agreeably surprised to see our ocean steamer, Brazileira, close to the harbour. She soon came to an anchor, two days before her time, to the inexpres- sible confusion of many unbelieving individuals, who had been very prolific in their forebodings that she would be consider- ably in arrear of her promised undertaking. She was the first steamer that ever came direct to the River Plate with cargo and passengers, both which were landed, at Monte Video in thirty- five days, and Buenos Ayres in thirty-six days, thus completely establishing the practicability of such a communication, and adding another triumph to the wonders of steam. In such a country it is a boon that can only be understood and appreciated by de- grees, but every practical writer on the affairs of the River Plate has pointed to steam as the alpha and omega — the one thing needful towards a successful development of its resources, and the only element by which these vast countries can be rendered avail- able to mankind, or perform their part in the great work of their Creator. With steam and railways would come hands and emi- HOMEWARD BOUND. 361 gr'ation, so much required, and where there is a vast and lucrative field, perhaps the most lucrative in the world, for its operation. Before quitting the La Plata, and its future destinies, I would say a few words on subjects connected therewith, although they may have no immediate bearing on the present narrative. I have before remarked how comparatively little is known in Europe of the past history of this part of South America, and of its internal resources. South of Buenos Ayres the curtain has been some- what raised by guano researches on the coast of Patagonia, which have not resulted in any great gain to the adventurers. The cli- mate is too humid, and the expense of drying the guano too great, to admit of much extension in that trade, which would scarcely have been opened but for the enterprize arising out of Ichaboe. Buenos Ayres has, therefore, lost nothing by this supposed encroachment on her territory, if it be rightfully hers — a point not altogether undisputed — ^which is, in other respects, wide enough, in all con- science, to admit of any multitude of industrious settlers, if they were disposed to come. Had similar deposits of giiaiio to those on the coasts of Chili and Peru existed at Patagonia, then, indeed, there might have been a reasonable chance for the interest on Buenos Ayres Bonds being paid, considerably sooner than now seems likely. There is a spot to the southward, called Bahia Blanca, with a good bay, and a river running from a long distance west- ward, that promises well to become of much future importance. Parish makes allusion to military operations in that locality, and I found that at Buenos Ayres several parties had their attention directed there, as a place offering considerable advantages, in the centre of large cattle districts, and through which the shortest cut could be made to the south-west coast of this continent. There is little doubt that if a safe and easy route could be established across the country, it would be much frequented, and by many be preferred to Panama, with its sickly tendencies ; a voyage of thirty or thirty-five days from England, and then a journey of ten or twelve days' might enable the traveller to reach the territory of Chili through a fine country and healthy climate. 362 HOMBVAUD BOTTND. And speaking of Chili and Peru, the present may not be an in- opportune place — at least I can now avail of no other — ^to state that a further hnk in the steam chain, wherein Brazil may be ex- pected to play a prominent part, is that to the west coast of South America, through the Straits of Magellan, as already indicated in the introductory chapter in reference to ChiU, whose gOTernment have granted a subsidy of £12,000 a year for a direct steam com- munication with England; and it is beheved this can be best effected by having branch steamers from Rio to Valparaiso, making Eio, what it really ought to be, the port of transit for the southern ocean.* The mineral wealth of Chili and Peru is still, as all know, something almost fabulous, and the consumption of British manufactures in those countries very considerable ; so that steamers would be sure of a paying freight both ways, with abundance of passengers, who would prefer such a route to the inconvenience and expense of crossing the isthmus. All that is required to secure to Brazil these important advantages, is a relaxation in its fiscal system, by which steamers can discharge and load in transit, without being subjected to local dues and restrictions, which are an extinguisher to progress in any country. If they decline to give these facilities, Monte Video and the Falkland Islands f wiU be only too glad of the opportunity, * The Pacific Steam Navigation Company under contract with Her Majesty's Govern- ment for the conveyance of the mails semi-monthly between Panama and Valparaiso, in connection with the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, have now on the West Coast of South America the following steam-ships, viz : — Lima 1,100 tons and 400 horse power Bogota 1,100 „ „ 400 Santiago 1,000 „ „ 400 Bolivia 800 „ „ 280 New Granada 600 „ „ 200 Valdivia 700 „ „ 180 Osprey 300 „ „ 100 The distance steamed annually is about 200,000 miles, and the number of intermediate ports touched at on the coasts of New Granada, Equador, Peru, Bolivia, and Chili, between the termini, is about 13. The company have also a contract with the Govern- ment of Chili for the conveyance of mails monthly between Valparaiso and Chili, as mentioned in the text. t Though I have quoted In the appendix a good deal of data referring to the Falklands, I cannot mention those islands in the text of this volume for the last time without adducing in evidence of their extreme eligibility, in con- HOMEWARD BOUND. 363 and wherever it takes root there it will remain. The question is important for Brazil, as a large number of vessels now put into Rio in transitu that would follow in the wake of steamers. Un- fortunately, the facilities for deaUng with cases of distressed vessels are no further advanced than they were fifty years back : not a graving dock, patent slip, or other convenient apparatus yet existing in the otherwise noble harbour of Eio Janeiro, although a floating sectional dock was in course of construction at Ponte d'Area It would appear that the formidable difficulties in navigating the Straits of Magellan exist only in name. Winter and summer the passage is quite easy and practicable, and settlements are. taking place by which both saihng ships and steamers can be furnished with stores and provisions, whilst there is coal of the country ready to assist the movements of steam. But in reality, the dreaded peril of Cape Horn itself will soon be quite a matter nection with Australian commerce, the annexed letter from the very compe- tent authority whose signature it bears. It is addressed to my fellow-townsman, Mr. Jeffrey, of Oompton House, who, after a very able speech in Liverpool in promotion of the decimal system, in illustration of which he quoted the prin- ciple of circle sailing, put some questions, at the instance of a friend, to Mr. Towson, in respect to the Falklands, and received in reply the following remarks, whose accuracy has been so strikingly corroborated by Captain Mat- thews, of the Great Britain, whose letter will be found in another page : — Local Marine Board, Liverpool, 31st December, 1853 : My dear Sir, — Tlie Falkland Islands are the best possible coaling stations for steamers homeward bound from Atistralia. The Marco Polo and Eagle sighted them on their celebrated homeward passages ; conse- quently they lay in the best tracli. They are also situated about midway. It is true that less tlian one- third of the coals is required between Australia and the Falkland Islands, which will be consumed during the homeward voyage. But, under all circum- stances, it is desirable to coal here, as it will enable the sliip to start from Australia in good sailing trim, instead of being overburdened with coals on that part pf the voyage in which steam is of but little value, A haltcargo of coals at Australia, and a full cargo of coals at the Falldand Islands, is what I have recommended for steamers, in cases in which I have been consulted. Although I think it possible that steamers wiU at length make the voyage without coaling at any intermediate station ; I still think that it is less likely tlut tliis will be adopted on the homeward passage than on the outward, because, on the first half of the voyage out, coals will be required most, but homeward on the second half, bo that, as a coaling station, the Falkland Islands stand preeminent. Also for steamers bound to the "West coast of America, North and South, the Falkland Islands will be the best coaling station both out and home.^I am, my dear Sir, yours truly, — John Thomas Towson. — To James R. Jeffery, Esq. 364 HOMEWARD BOUND. of history,* if a halfway house hereabouts be established, as the proofs already adduced, and now quoted in a note, render a cer- tainty. The coal is said to be a kind of bituminous anthracite, which gets up steam very well when mixed with English coal. Coal has been found on the coast of ChiH of this description, and in places readily accessible for steam purposes. With the present * In proof of this we may here cite the letter of Captain Matthews, of the Great Britain, as already alluded to : — Liverpool, 1st April, 1854. Gentlemen, — I have much pleasure in complying with your request that I should lay before you a brief statement of the advantages afforded by the Falkland Islands as a place of call for ocean steamers. Captain Grant, of the Sea Bird, in the very interesting letter which he wrote to you from Stanley relative to the deposit of coal for the Great Britain, has already made you aware of the excellence of that harbour, and of its easy access. I am able, from my own experience, to confirm, in every particular, Capt. Grant's remarks. The government charts are exceedingly coiTect ; the land as you approach it is made out without any difficulty, and we saw Pembroke Point and its bea- con (now to be superseded by a lighthouse) at the distance of seven mUes. The harbour itself is like a large dock, secure from all winds, and with an en- trance sufficiently wide for a good smart sailing vessel to beat through with ease. All the dangerous points are distinctly marked by the kelp or sea-weed. The anchorage is excellent, varying from four to five fathoms at low water, so that the Great Britain is everywhere in perfect safety ; and even were she to touch the ground, she would not receive any injury, as the bottom is all soft mud. The facility for watering ships is good : a resen'oir, holding about 200 tons of water, communicates by means of pipes with the end of a jetty, where, even when the tide is out, there is always about three feet of water, which is suffi- cient for a flat boat to float off ten tons at a time. The casks in the boat are filled by fastening a short hose to the pipes, and thus one ship can be watered as rapidly as if she were in Liverpool. The Governor, of whose courteous and obliging conduct I cannot speak too highly, promised that, should Stanley become a port of call for steamers, a floating tank shall be built, so that water could be alongside the ship immediately on her arrival, and pumped into the tanks or casks, as the case may be. There are considerable herds of cattle on the islands, and v/heu put up to feed (as was the case with the Great Britain) their beef is very good ; veget- ables of the more ordinary kind, such as potatoes, cabbages, and turnips, can be had when in season. Ship chandlery and grocery stores can also be pur- chased to a limited extent. Labour is scarce, as the population of Stanley (the only settlement) is only about 400. But every year as the islands be- come better known this want will no doubt be less felt. I should add that the hulk for coaling the Great Britain was placed in the HOMEWARD BOUND. 365 higli freights for coal shipped hence, the certainty of a supply of even inferior fuel of the kind is most important. Other lines of steam communication are in process of formation along the South American, especially the Brazilian, coast, to con- nect the bye ports and rivers with the principal cities and towns ; and two steamers, called the ' Santa Cruz ' and ' Continguiba,' are shortly to leave for Bahia on this most useful errand ; so that, in a few years, we may expect to find coasting steamers in Brazil as numerous almost as on our own coast, conveying to and fro passen- gers and produce, to the great advantage of the country and of our mercantile relations with it. The Rio Company which has undertaken the contract with the Brazilian government for opening up the navigation of the Amazon has hardly yet been long enough in operation to show what can be accomplished. There are immense difficulties to overcome in pio- neering a navigation of this kind through such wild, uncultivated, and almost unknown districts ; and without a considerable subsidy, no association would undertake the task. Great credit is due to the Brazilian government for making a heavy sacrifice in order to in- sure so desirable an object. They are moreover negotiating with the Company with the view of correcting the clause of the contract which insures to the Company the exclusive privilege of naviga- ting the river with steamers. These arrangements wiU doubtless be brought to a successful issue, for a more enlightened and patri- otic citizen than Senhor Ireneo Evangelista de Souza, with whom the government contract was made, does not exist in any country. most convenient situation. I experienced not the slightest difficulty in this or any other matter during this detention of four days in these islands, owing chiefly to the good management of Mr. Dale, the agent for the Falkland Islands' Company, who was immediately in attendance on arrival of the ship, and continued until the hulk with coals was alongside. The zealous attention and kindness of this gentleman to my passengers and myself whenever his services were required will always be remembered by us. I remain, gentlemen, Your obedient servant, (Signed) Baenabd R. Matthews. Messrs. Gibbs, Bright, and Co. 366 HOMEWARD BOUND. He has done more for the internal advancement of Brazil than any other man; witness the splendid establishment at Ponta d'Area, for foundry work, engineering, and ship building ; the short rail- way to the foot of the Organ Mountains ; lighting the city of Rio with gas, the estabUshment of a new bank which has lately merged into a national one ; and, latterly, opening up the navigation of the Amazon ; besides many other improvements that little is heard of. Only those personally acquainted with the indefatigable labourso f Senhor Ireneo in such a country can judge of their real beneficial tendency, or of the gigantic mind required to cope with the difficul- ties entailed. Great stir is making by our Yankee friends in this part of the world; they have contracted with the Peruvian govern- ment for two small wooden steamers, which were sent out piece- meal, and put together at Para. Report says very little in favour of the strength or speed of these steamers, qualities very essentia^ to such a navigation, exposed to strong currents, and impediments from want of a proper knowledge of the channel of the river. I believe the Rio Company are building some fine powerful boats in this country, that will shortly be brought to bear on this increas- ing and, I venture to predict, wonderful traffic. My mission being for the promotion of steam in South America, and the main aim and object of this volume being to make known here the desirability of, and the field for, such enterprise in that country, I trust the foregoing apparent digression in the midst of the return voyage will not appear irrelevent. Leaving Monte Video on the morning of the 1st October, we steamed down the river, with a hght breeze and sunny weather ; soon passed Mores, which very much resembles some of our channel lighthouses, on a low island, a short distance from the land. Before sunset we had left the island of Lobos behind, and soon came into a nasty head wind and sea, which lasted for two or three days, causing the vessel to pitch a good deal, and making every one uncomfortable- At daylight on the fifth morning the mountains of Rio were in sight, the Corcovado towering over them. Passmg Raza, the scenery is very fine, and will bear oft- HOMEWAKD BOUND. 367 repeated inspection with largely increased advantage, as it yaries much with the particular period of the day when seen, the lights and shadows being so different, and changing with each suc- ceeding hour. Early morning throws its sharp silvery touch over everything, tinting the sides and peaks of the mountains, which seem floating in mist, whilst the forts and buildings of the city have a sombre hue. At mid-day all this effect has cleared away ; the hUls stand out in bold relief — ^bright green is the distinguish- ing character of the landscape — and the glare of white houses and red tiles meets your eye in every direction. Towards even- ing the aspect again changes to a deep brown or purple, steeping all things in more glowing richness ; and presently there is thrown over the whole that pecuhar olive which is quite a reality in the tropics, but the painting of which looks more or less ideal to the vision accustomed only to the comparatively frigid atmosphere of our temperate zone. I merely allude to the general character of the scenery, which, of course, varies materially with the changes of weather, and needless is it to add that there are occasional sunsets which no description of language could adequately pom-- tray. We regret to say that the hotel accommodation of Rio Janeiro is very deficient for the size of the place and the extent of traffic passing through it. The best hotels are those of Pharoux and De TEurope, in the city, and the Hotel des Etrangers and Johnson's Hotel, on the road to Botafogo, the latter being pecuharly adapted for Enghsh ideas of comfort, and also long known to English travellers passing through, as well as a comfortable home to many residents there. The Hotel des Etrangers is a large, spacious building, now kept by a Frenchman, and is quite a fashion- able resort for deputies visiting Rio for the session, as also for foreign diplomatists. The accommodation at Johnson's Hotel is limited, and quite of a select nature. Comfortable boarding-houses, in our meaning of the term, are very few and far between. The majority of new-comers to, or passers-through, Rio, have private friends, to whose houses they resort during their brief sojourn ; but, 368 HOMEWARD BOUND. undoubtedly, there is ample scope for much greater accommodation being afforded to ' man and beast' in this large city. The Em- peror of Brazil is said to be coming to Europe on a tour of some duration. It is to be hoped that not only will he be accompanied by a large retinue, but that numbers of the affluent inhabitants of this capital will also visit the old world at the same time ; for if so, they can carry back with them no experience that may be turned to more desirable account in Rio than that which they will derive from an acquaintance with first class British, French, or German hotels. After four days' detention at Rio, coaling, taking in cargo, &c., we left, on the morning of the 20th October, with some eighty passengers on board, for the northern ports of Brazil, Lisbon, and England. Again we encountered the head wind and sea which had so perplexed us previously, between Monte Video and Rio ; but arriving, nevertheless, in three and a half days at Bahia, where we spent a miserably wet day coahng. In spite of the weather we got away in the afternoon, under a salute from the forts in honour of the President* of Para, who was a passenger on board. Forty hours took us to Pernambuco Roads, which we left again on Sunday afternoon, the 16th, once more in direct route for home. The Olinda was due at Pernambuco, and strange enough, the * Speaking of this functionary, I am reminded that I have left the diplo- matic and consular corps of some few of the states of South America unenu- merated. The following brief particulars, however, will be found to embrace all that is necessary to be known on such head, in respect to the states in any way coming within the scope of the foregoing pages : — Venezuela has at present no diplomatic representative in this country. The consuls are Mr. J. Milligan, London; Mr. A. Fox, Falmouth; Mr. W. Watson, Liverpool; and Mr. J. Ferguson, Belfast. The British consuls are the Hon. R. Bingham, who was attached to the mission at Naples in 1818, to the embassy at Paris in 1823, to the mission at Madrid in 1825, to the em- bassy at Lisbon in 1828, appointed paid attache at Madrid in 1829, secretary of legation at Munich in 1831, at Turin in 1839, and charge d'affaires and consul-general in Venezuela in 1852, salary 1200Z. ; Mr. J. Riddel, La Guy- ra, 2001.; Mr. J. MoWhirter, acting consul in Venezuela from 1835 to 1837, and from 1839 to 1843, appointed vice-consul at Puerto CabeUo in 1843, 200Z.; Ml-. E. T. Harrison, Maracaibo, 200Z. ; and Mr. K. Mathison, unpaid consul at Angostura from 1841 to 1845, appointed vice-consul at Bolivar in 1847, salary 200/. HOMEWARD BOUND. 369 next morning we met lier as if a line had been drawn for us to do so. Saluting each other with two guns, and a reciprocal round of three hearty cheers, time being too valuable for either to stop to satisfy curiosity, we pursued our respective routes, not a little elated by reciprocal punctuality and success thus far in our mutual maiden voyage. She looked remarkably well, appeared to be steaming fast, and would be in Pernambuco early next day. Our passenger hst comprised fifty, of all denominations, English, French, Brazilians, Portuguese, Argentine, &c. ; but it is surprising how everything gets into shape and order under such circumstances We sighted the Island of St. Paul's, looking like the white sails of a vessel, and on Sunday afternoon, the 22nd of October, came to anchor in Porto Grande, St. Vincent, under seven days from Pernambuco, a distance of 2,000 miles, very good work it must be confessed, though, perhaps, nothing to boast of, considering what we had already achieved. Leaving St. Vincent the same night, we had to steam against the north-east wind and waves for seven con- secutive days, with no aid from our canvass. Then we passed Porto Santo, and saw both the Desertas and Madeira at a good distance, basking in fine clear weather. The morning of the 3rd Octo- ber broke siilendidly on the coast of Portugal, Cape Espectrial and the distant hills in sight, the lower land being shrouded in Bolivia is diplomatically represented in England by General Andrea Santa Cruz, minister plenipotentiary. The Bolivian consuls are Baron Scholey, consul-general, whose office is 1, London-street, Fenchurch-street, London; Mr. H. Morris, Dover; Mr. T. W. Fox, Plymouth; and Mr. R. Dunkin, Llanelly and Swansea. The British charge d'affafres and consul-general in Bolivia is Mr. J. A. Lloyd, formerly aide-de-camp to a West India governor, who permitted him to proceed to Columbia, where he was officer of engineers ,to General Bolivar, in 1827 was sent to the isthmus of Darien, and laid down the line of railway, was afterwards scientifically employed by the Admiralty and the Royal Society, in 1831 was appointed surveyor-general and civil en- gineer in chief at Mauritius, in 1850 a special commissioner for the Exhibition of 1851, and at the close of the latter year to his present post at Sucre, where his salary is 12001. The consuls of Equador in this country are Mr. W. P. Robertson, con- sul-general, 5, Barge-yard, Bucklersbury, London; Mr. E. Mocatta, Liver- pool; Mr. G. Dunlop, Southampton; and Mr. M. R. Ryan, Limerick. The British consul at Guayaquil is Mr. W. Cope, whose salary is lOOOZ. 2 b 370 HOMEWAED BOUin). mist ; we stood towards Cascaes Bar, got a pilot on board, and once more entered the Tagus, in the short space of fifteen days from Pernambuco, and twentr-one from Rio. We were obliged to bring up at Belem, and undergo quarantine, although we brought clean bills of health, there being no cases of ferer reported at any of the Brazilian ports. A certificate from four medical men on board attested this fact ; as well as our having no invahds on board of any kind. Between twenty and thirty of our passengers left us here, having to endure the misery of eight days in the Lazaretto — a castellated looking buildina;, situated on the south side of the Tagus— they were all transferred, with their luggage, to a large hghter. A more lovely day could scarcely be conceived than the one when we were at anchor at the quarantine station, coaling ; most tantalising to be debarred from availing ourselves of the opportunity to land and hare a run over the city, which many of our passengers had seen for the first time. As to pre- venting an importation of yellow fever by their quarantine regu- lations, it is a complete farce, as all kind of communication are kept up with the shore ; the officers of the ship are allowed to go on shore to the health office, which is right on the main road passing Belem, and the shore is a common thoroughfare ; cara- vans and people bathing where the boats land. It is difficult to conceive on what groimds these absurd regulations are intro- duced, unless it be to annoy and drive away people wishing to visit the place, and as part and parcel of a system of intolerant restrictions that are enough to paralyse the energies of any country. The inconvenience which such restrictions cause is in- describable, nor can anything justify the infliction in such cases as ours. K at any time there is really sufficient grounds for adopting quarantine regulations, they ought to be delighted to remove them so soon as the grounds were removed. In the pre- sent advanced state of civilization, and with the rapid intercourse between nations, quarantine is almost a barbarity, calculated to shut out the country that exercises it from the rest of the world, whilst it is impossible it can be efficacious in the manner it is carried HOMBWAED BOrND. 371 on at Lisbon ; besides, the yellow fever has never been known to tra- vel out of the tropics, and surely a voyage of twenty or thirty days across the ocean, without a case on board, is sufficient security, even supposing the fever to exist in the country the vessel comes from. On the other hand, reports of cholera in England cause an en- forcement of quarantine outwards, thus putting the crowning piece to this mass of absurdity and annoyance. The subject can- not be alluded to with common patience, especially when it is publicly stated that the medical men who have to determine these sanitary points have a strong pecuniary interest in the lazarettos, and numbers of people prey upon the unfortunate vessel and passengers subjected to these terrible inflictions. Since my return, however, the Lisbon officials seem to have become a little amenable to reason and decency, and their preposterous regulations are in a trifling degree relaxed. At 10 A.M. on the morning of the 1st November we weighed anchor, and steamed past Belem, towing a pilot in his boat astern. Our late fellow passengers in the Lazaretto were assembled at the top of the building, waving flags and handkerchiefs, to bid us farewell, and one could scarcely help feeling melancholy to see so many worthy people stuck up in a kind of cage, for no earthly object but to gratify a morbid sensibility on points sanitary. The pilot would not come on board, as it would subject him to perform a given number of days' quarantine afterwards. There was a fresh breeze from the southward, and the rope soon broke, leaving Mr. Pilot to find his way back to Lisbon, and the steamer to find her own way out as best she could. A heavy sea was breaking on the bar, in which the pilot could not possibly have been towed, so we were well rid of him ; but it only shows the operation of things . under such an iniquitous system, where a man is well paid for doing absolutely worse than nothing — ^being in the way ; for how is it possible for a pilot to direct a vessel when he is towed astern of her, and any directions he might give are impossible to be heard ? However, we crossed the bar safely, and soon passed the Rock of Lisbon, after which our fair wind vanished ; came strong ahead, with a good deal of sea, against which we steamed until next day 2b2 372 HOMEWARD BOUND. 2nd Nov., when it became calm, and the wind gradually veered to south-east. Saw Cape Finisterre, and from thence to St. Agnes Light (Scilly Islands) ; we were only thirty-five hours in doing 450 miles of distance. From Scilly we posted our way up Channel ; went inside the Smalls ; passed close to the Island of Grasholm, a very wild spot ; missed Bardsey, but saw Holyhead Light; had a tug round the Skerries, blowing hard; at day- light got a pilot on board, and at 11 a.m. entered the Mersey, exactly twenty-six days from Rio Janeiro, including stoppages. My trip of 15,000 miles (including the run up the Parana) occu- pied me very little over three months, during which time I visited all the important sea ports of Brazil, Monte Video, Buenos Ayres, &c., spending a fortnight in Rio, and about the same time in the La Plata. The ' Brazileira's ' entire voyage occupied seventy- three days, including eighteen days' stoppages, clearly proving that it is only a question of time for these valuable countries to be brought within the scope of a pleasure trip. The performances of the Brazileira and of her sister ships of our fleet had, on the whole, been highly satisfactory, and pro- mised to realize to the utmost every anticipation that had been entertained at the period of the formation of the company. But, alas, for bright visions ! two of the flotilla unexpectedly, I may say unaccountably, are numbered with the departed, and under pretty nearly identical circumstances — both from shaving too close. The Olinda, wrecked hard by Holyhead, but fortunately without sacrifice of life, in one of those terrible storms that swept the British coast the beginning of this year, is a loss to the company as regards her keeping up the main ocean line. The Argentina had, for a time, been a shining light to the nume- rous passengers between the two great cities on the La Plata, and she is, emphatically, a national loss to them, as well as to the surrounding district, retarding, in fact, the work of civiliza- tion and improvement. On a fine, clear, and almost breath- less evening, still daylight, she carried her temerity so far as to approach too closely some sunken rocks near the entrance to Monte Video harbour, going twelve miles an hour at the time, and HOMEWARD BOUND. 373 m a moment her career of usefulness was ended! There was almost a general mourning over her, so great a favourite had she become, by the rapid and satisfactory manner in which she illus- trated the blessings of steam navigation in a region where, of all others, such agency is most to be desired.* In order to repair as speedily as possible the damages caused by the loss of the Ohnda and Argentina, the company have pur- chased the paddle-wheel steamer Menai, well known for her quick passages between Liverpool, Beaumaris, and Bangor, to replace the Argentina on the station between Monte Video and Buenos Ayres, until such time as a larger and more efficient vessel, now in course of construction, and that will be in every way worthy of the passenger traffic between those two great cities, can be built. They have also sent out the La Plata, a fine new screw, built by Mr. John Laird, originally intended for the London and Oporto trade, and to be called the Bacchante'; but now destined to run between Rio Janeiro, Monte Video, and Buenos Ayres, in connec- tion with the ocean steamers, which will not proceed beyond Rio Janeiro. In conjunction with the above-mentioned vessels, the company intend placing on the hue the Imperador and Impera- trice, two steamers also in process of construction, same size and power as the Bahiana. Our fleet will thus consist of the Imperador, Imperatrice, and Bahiana, all new ships ; the Brazileira and Lusita- nia, now running ; the La Plata, a branch boat ; and the two River Plate passenger-boats. I doubt not the pubhc, as well as the res- pective governments embraced in this line of steam communication, will consider the enterprise as deserving of their especial support. * A writer in the city article of the Times of February 17th, dating from the Plate, shortly after the occurrence, says : — The Lusitania, belonging to the Liverpool Screw Steam Company, made the passage from England in 36 daj^s. The Argentine paddle-wheel steamboat, belonging to the same company, when leaving the harbour about a fortnight since for Buenos Ayres, struck upon a reef of rocks running from the Cerro. All efforts to get her off proving ineffectual, she was abandoned, and sold on account of the underwriters for 4,600 duros, but is likely to prove a dead loss to the purchasers, as the engines cannot be abstracted. The loss of this vessel is not only a serious one to the company, but to the public in this part of the world. By her punctuality and speed she had just succeeded in driving away all com- petitors, and would have paid very handsomely. When replacing her, it is believed, the company would do well to send a larger vessel, but of no deeper draught of water ; 374 CONCLUDING EBMABKS. A pace of my allotted space remains to be filled, and I cannot better occupy it than with a brief summary of the news brought to the latest moment before going to press, viz., that by the Mail, which arrived on the 16th of April, with dates from Buenos Ayres' March 4 ; Monte Video, 6 ; Rio Janeiro, 17 ; Bahia, 22 ; Pemam- buco, 25; St. Vmcent's, Cape Verde, April 4; Teneriffe, 8 ; Madeira, 9 ; and Lisbon, 12, as quoted in the leading journal of the 17th. Tranquillity continued undisturbed on the Plate. Business in imported goods and manufactures was dull, owing to the total absence of dealers from the interior. Since the blockade of July last upwards of 2,000 houses had been erected in the city of Buenos Ayres, and buildings were still being raised with the greatest rapidity. Trade was expected to improve. Articles of consumption were very dear. The supplies of produce were very Stinted, and at advancing prices. A large portion of the last chp of wool remained on hand. The following extracts from a letter, dated Buenos Ayres, March 4, give the latest particulars of poli- tical events : — ' Here eyerything goes on quite smoothly : at least, there is nothing within the province to cause any uneasiness. Our attention at present is whoUy di- rected to Monte Video, where the Brazilian policy is heing carried out with rapid strides. The only important question for us is how their proceedings may be viewed by General Urquiza, as President of the Confederation, whether he may make friends with us to resist the Imperialists, or join with the Imperialists that he may attack this province ? Mr Buchental, a wealthy Brazilian capitalist and speculator, has crossed over to ChUi to consult as to the means of forming a railroad from Valparaiso to the Rosario. The latest news from the west coast represents nearly all the Republics to the north in a state of excitement, hut we suspect there is a great deal of exaggeration. Mr. Gore, British Minister at Buenos Ayres, has gone up the Parana for the purpose, it is supposed, of exchanging the ratifications of the treaty", and, perhaps, to grace the installation of the Constitutional Presidency, which is to take place about this time, some say on tliis very day. If Urquiza is vrise he will do the best he can with his own domains, and leave us alone.' From Eio there is nothing worth noticing, as regards political affairs. A considerable reaction had taken place in the coffee- market, and prices were lower. Supphes regular. From Per- nambuco we learn that the South American and General Steam CONCLUDING REMARKS. , 375 Navigation Company's steamer Lusitania reached Pernambuco on the 18th ult. Great tightness exists in the money-market — more so than had been experienced for a long period. On the 13th, the South American and General Steam Naviga- tion Company's steam vessel for the Plate, Menai, was off Cape Finisterre. Our Lisbon accounts are to the 12th instant. The passengers by the Mail had been placed in quarantine for eight days, in consequence of the reported appearance of yellow fever at Pernambuco. The little rain which had fallen in Portugal was not sufficient materially to improve the prospects of the grain harvest, while the cattle in some parts were suffering much from want of food. Erratum. — In the. hurry of passing the foregoing pages through the press, ' many errors hare occurred, which unavoidahle absence from London, and the nature of my duties in Liverpool, did not permit of being corrected in time. For these I must crave the reader's indulgence, promising that they shaU not he repeated, and that many short comings shall be supplied, in the event of another edition being called for, which I am in hopes, from the nature of the subject itself, though not from its present treatment, will soon be the case. One oversight, however, is of too conspicuous a nature not to require notice, namely, that in which the printers have confounded the sugar and cotton growing province of Paraiba do Norte with the coffee plantations on the River Parayba, in the province of Rio Janeiro, there being no coffee grown in the former province, and consequently it is to the latter the remarks in the text are intended to apply. THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. The Falklands recommended by the Colonial Land Emigration Com- missioners, as a place of Re-fit, Naval Station, and Convict Settle- ment. — The Corporation of the Falkland Islands Company. — How it could assist Her Majesty's Government in forming a Convict Settle- ment. — Proposal to demonstrate the superior eligibility of this Colony for a Convict Settlement.— Climate healthy. — Fresh Water abundant. ^Cost of Transport less than that to other Colonies. — Safe Custody and Classification. — Geographical position and extent. — Distance from the Main. — Little Naval Force required. — Causes of insecurity at other Settlements -not found at the Falklands. — Detached Islands provide against escape. — Guard required less than elsevfhere. — Pro- visions cheap. — How supplied. — Cereals may be raised. — Employ- ment. — Supply of Convicts need not be gradual. — How first comers are to be disposed of. — Preliminary outlay very small, and may be recovered. — Opinions of various Servants of the Crown. — -Two Pro- positions. — 1. What the Falkland Islands Corporation should under- take. — 2. What national advantages would result from a Convict Settlement at this Colony. — Get rid of Convicts. — Relieve the jM other Country. — Redeem the pledge made to all Convicts. — Facilities for reformation. — Restoration of the penitent to society, without injury to the innocent. — Agricultural School for Juvenile Convicts. — Com- plete Depot for Naval Re-fit near Cape Horn. — Saving of Port Charges and of Freight. — All Ship's Repairs could be done if Patent Slip laid down. — Secure Coaling Station for Steamers. — First-rate Naval Station. — In time of AVar ' Key of the Pacific' — Testimpny of Governor Rennie, and of Capt. Matthews, Commander of the Great Britain Steamer. Some years ago, the British Government was disposed to entertain the idea of placing a Convict Estabhshment on the Falkland Islands (a purpose to which they had been applied by their former occupants), and it appears that this idea was suggested by the representations of various persons employed in the service of the Crown, in and about the islands, and on the neighbouring continent, to the effect that the locality was highly eligible for the purpose ; in fact, the Colonial Land and Emigration Commissioners have strongly recommended these islands as a place of re-fit for merchantmen, as a naval station, and as a convict settlement— and advised that the first operations to promote the settle- ment should be undertaken by a public company. It is because the Engraved Vy-Gearrfe PHlip Sc Son. THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 37? attention of Government has been thus directed to the eligibility of these islands, that it is thought well to present, in this brief form, a statement of the advantages they naturally present, as virell as of those that may be secured, should Her Majesty's Government be disposed to resume the consideration of forming a convict settlement there, which was probably postponed at the date referred to because convenient means of carrying the project into execution did not then present them- selves. There is no reason to suppose that any objection was raised to the locality itself, nor does it appear that any objection does actually exist ; on the contrary, it may be satisfactorily demonstrated that no spot in Her Majesty's dominions is better suited for a convict station. A public company now exists, under the style of the ' Falkland Islands Company,' the primary object of which is to trade in the pro- duce of the colony, and which has obtained from the Crown a royal charter, incorporating it for that purpose. This fact is premised, to render it apparent that, if her Majesty's Government thinks well to avail itself of the company's services in making arrangements for a convict settlement at the Falklands, the means needful to carry out the project are not wanting. The existing establishments in the colony, recently assigned to the corporation, are already in that state of for- wardness, and the capital they have at call in this country is sufficient to enable them to assure Her Majesty's Government of their capability to undertake the immediate supply of all necessaries for a large number of convicts as soon as they can arrive in the colony ; moreover, they are prepared to provide every description of stores on terms as reason- able as those paid in any other colony, and in respect to the important items of beef, mutton, and fuel, at a cheaper rate than they can be sup- plied elsewhere. If, therefore, it be considered desirable to find a new locality for convicts (which it appears from public report Her Majesty's Government have it in contemplation to select), this company can assist in carrying out the object, and it only remains to point out why the Falklands should be deemed most eligible in every point of view for the purpose in question. The proposition would seem to be sustained by the following facts : — 1. The climate is remarkably healthy. In proof of this assertion may be adduced the concurrent testimony of numerous respectable and honourable men : — amongst others. Captains Fitzroy, Sulivan, and Robertson, who conducted the nautical survey — of Dr. Darwin, who accompanied Captain Fitzroy's expedition — of Weddell, and Captain Sir James C. Ross— of Captain Mackinnon, and Captain Eden, who, together with the late Governor, Captain Moody, and Mr. Hamblin, the colonial surgeon (now in England), all unite in attributing extraordinary salu- brity to the climate of these islaudo. That it is considered agreeable may be inferred from the existence oi' the present settlers, some of them men of capital and station, who have formed establishments, and resided there for many years. The temperature is declared to be remarkably equable, the extremes of heat and cold, usual in England, being un- known there ; then there is a prevalence of south-westerly gales, which render the air of a peculiarly bracing character, whilst it is considered 378 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. far more enjoyable than that of European countries situate north of the 52nd or 53rd degree of latitude. Fresh water is everywhere found of excellent quality. From these authorized statements, it may be taken for granted, that such a temperature for active and healthy labour is far better suited to the constitutions of men born in the climate of Great Britain, than the hot and relaxing atmosphere of the equatorial latitudes, whereby the power and inclination to labour is dirninished, whilst residence in such climates has the effect of fomenting the evil passions of men under little or no moral or religious constraint. 2. The cost of transport would be one half of that to any of the ex- isting penal settlements. This fact being self-evident, requires no testimony for its support. The islands lie less than half way between Great Britain and Australia, California, and China, on the direct route to the Pacific. 3. This colony is peculiarly well adapted for the safe custody and classification of convicts. The Falkland group, situated in the same latitude, south, as the English midland counties are, north, consists of two large islands, comprising an area of 6,400 square miles, and several hundred smaller islands, from 20,000 acres each to islets of one acre, and the total extent of territory is equal to rather more than half that of the kingdom of Belgium. The numerous detached islands offer remarkably well-adapted positions for permanent stations, say for a penal settlement, whilst the western island combines those advantages that are requisite to insure the practical working of the forced labour, and subsequent reformed settlement, system, which might eventually render the East Falkland a flourishing free colony, entirely unconnected with the convict establishment. The situation of the islands is wholly iso- lated ; the nearest land is Staten Island, distant 250 miles by chart — they are 350 miles from Terra del Fuego, and 400 from the coast of Patagonia in direct lines, countries either uninhabited, or peopled by savages, without port or shipping — and there is no small shipping trade in or about the Falklands. By means of the semaphore, a communication can be kept up every ten minutes between the extreme western point of the West Island and Port Stanley on the extreme east of the group — consequently the naval force stationed there need be very trifling. Then the vessels calling are all bound round the Horn, or returning from the Pacific, or whalers — none of these, wanting men, would take convicts, and there is none of that class of shipping on this track that are likely to take them off. There are no woods to conceal fugitives, and no means of constructing boats or rafts, should any contemplate so wild an adventure as to try to gain the main, where certain death by starvation, or at the hands of ruthless savages, would await them. These advantages cannot fail to be appreciated when the position of this settlement is compared with that of Van Dieman's Land, Norfolk Island, or any of the islands of the northern groups in that hemisphere. Here are no native population or settlers to be corrupted by contact with convicts — no coasting traffic, affording constant opportunity for escape, and both of which render safe custody costly in other colonies. Norfolk Island, and more particularly New Caledonia and the Fidgee THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 379 group, lie in the track of a host of independent traders, men who own and command their ships, and whose occupation is trading between these islands, Sydney, the Society Islands, the Marquesas and the Pau- motu Islands, as well as with Valparaiso — whose expeditions frequently last two or three years, and who notoriously take part in the quarrels between the various petty Polynesian kingdoms ; in which cases they not unfrequently undertake to provide the party, who is able to pay them for the service, with English soldiers, and in performance of such engagements, kidnap convicts as a matter of traffic. The existence of this trade, carried on to a considerable extent by men who have some of them been convicts themselves, must always render the custody of criminals at the islands named both hazardous and expensive. The numerous detached islands which form the Falkland group afford every facility for classification, and are most of them only approachable on the north-eastern side, the rest of the coast being fringed with sunken rocks, naturally buoyed by kelp, which render landing or getting off impossible. The peculiarities of form and position herein noticed would render the presence of a large military or civil guard quite un- necessary — -and it will probably appear, that such part of the duty of an establishment there as appertains to their safe custody and to the maintenance of proper order amongst the prisoners, could be carried out more economically than at any other station. 4. Provisions of all kinds would be plentiful at cheaper rates than in any other colony. Beef, mutton, and pork are in abundance, and could be supplied of the best quality at 2d. to Zd. per lb. Flour, biscuit, and clothing would have to be imported, probably from F/Ugland and the Ca- nadas (until they could be raised in sufficient quantity on the islands), and as vessels bound round the Horn can obtain fresh supplies of provisions and water at Stanley, these articles could be landed in the Falklands at a cheaper rate than elsewhere. Vegetables may be raised in any quantity required, and white celery and other antiscorbutic plants are indigenous. Labour is only needed to insure the raising of cereal crops, and therefore the supply of such produce would follow the location of convicts. 5. Employment would not be wanting. Good building stone and slate exists. Coal and limestone are reported to have been discovered, but this requires confirmation. Timber would have to be imported from our North American colonies for some purposes, though the quantity of drift from Staten Island and the neighbouring coasts is very great; and some of it large enough for ship's repairs. Roads, buildings, public works, the collection and preparation of fuel, preparation of stores, &c., would afford ample occupation for a large number of unskilled labourers, whilst tradesmen and artizans could be occupied in providing for the other wants of the community. Convicts of the lowest class could be advan- tageously employed in the construction of slips, quays, a careening dock, barracks, enclosures for cattle, dwellings for government ofllcers, stone portage, military works, levelling town allotments, road-laying, brick-making, drainage, well sinking, and cutting channels for the sup- ply of water to the town and shipping. Whilst those of a superior 380 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. class might have ample occupation found for them in the construc- tion of dwellings for themselves, churches, working of salt-works, raising embankments and planting, horse-breaking and keeping, tending flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, curing beef and fish, opening streams for drainage, baking, butchering, cutting, washing, and consolidating turf, collecting guano, growing vegetable supplies, making shoes, clothing, cheese, butter, &c., for the consumption of the estab- lishment and exportation; and procuring fodder for the Government troop of horses ; with many other occupations which experience would suggest. 6. It is less necessary that the supply of convicts should be gra- dual in these islands than in any other of our colonies. The labour of the first comers would be mainly directed to providing for their own immediate wants. These, in the first instance, might be lodged on board of hulks, the same that conveyed them out, and their em- ployment would be in the erection of a large stone barrack, church, gaol, and storehouses, with suitable dwellings for the overseers; all as regards the external walls sound and strong, and on a scale to receive at least double their number, with the needful attendants on the estab- lishment. An old line-of-battle ship, jury rigged, could be prepared to receive on board 1,500 to 2^000 convicts ; and such a vessel, after her arrival, would not be required for more than a year or two, but would last four or five years without needing repairs as a convict hulk. They might afterwards be broken up, and used as stores in finishing some of the buildings, and for other suitable purposes. Wooden barracks constructed in this country might of course be taken out with the con- victs ; but a hulk is suggested as a temporary dwelling that could more probably be readily found, and would not swell the preliminary estimate which it appears always desirable to avoid in the formation of a new establishment. It should not be lost sight of, that the stiff clay of the islands works up with the stone of the ' streams ' into very sound and durable walls, as witness those of the old Spanish fort at Port Louis, built, it is said, in 1771, and now in a good state of preservation. It results, then, that a convict establishment may be planted at the Falklands with a very small amount of preliminary outlay on the part of the Home Government, and that such outlay may speedily be re- turned. Such has been the expressed opinion of nearly all the men, who, being qualified to form an opinion on such a subject, have had an opportunity of examining the locality. Amongst these gentlemen, there appear the names of Captains Fitzroy, Ross, Mackinnon, and Sulivan, as well as of Mr., now Sir, Wm. Gore Ouseley, who, in his official correspondence some years ago, expressed a very decided opi- nion on this subject. In fine, these islands have been recommended by the Colonial Land and Emigration Commissioners, ' as a place of trans- portation, perhaps more eligible than any other British possession,' and these gentlemen have already forcibly suggested a notice to Parliament on the subject. Having thus demonstrated that no more eligible spot could be found for convicts, it only remains to point out specifically what the Falkland THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 381 Islands Company should undertake, provided Her Majesty's Govern- ment decide to send such persons to the Falklands, and to avail them- selves of the company's services in so doing: — and then to set forth the highly important results in a national point of view that would follow the adoption of this measure. The company should contract to furnish all such supplies as the •Government might require of them. They should also undertake to employ convict labour in the drainage and general improvement of their own territory, paying to government a fair rate of wages for such labour ; and this would provide a considerable source of revenue, as doubtless the company would be only too glad to avail themselves of such a means of rendering their very extensive possessions really pro- ductive, in a far greater space of time than they could hope to accom- plish it by importing free labour, and probably even at less cost. Thus this colony, hitherto almost overlooked, notwithstanding its very remarkable geographical position, may become one of the most valuable possessions of the Crown : and, in times to come, or rather in the time that has come, rank in importance not second to Gibraltar, Malta, Aden, Hong Kong, and such other places as are valuable in proportion to the power they confer on their possessors of maintaining friendly relations with the other nations. of the earth, or protecting their own interests in the present rupture with Russia. The following national advantages would thus be secured. First : — We should get rid of the vexed question of ' What are we to do with our convicts ?' and that in a manner not obnoxious to any one of the objections raised against other localities. Secondly : — Her Majesty's Government would be relieved from the embarrassment that must always attend the attempt to retain convicts in this country. For the time must come when their terms expire, and then the real difficulty of disposing of them must be grappled with. It can hardly be supposed that the mother country will consent to re- ceive among her highly moral people those whom the colonies have una voce agreed to reject. And it would be an injustice and impolicy, that could not be contemplated, to condemn such men to constant isola- tion. In the East Falkland they may settle, and thence they may insensibly migrate whither they list, without the blazonry of their for- mer guilt preceding them, and thus have really a fair chance of resuming an honest and respectable position ; which it is, to say the least, extremely difficult for men to accomplish at the spot whereon they have undergone their punishment, and consequently amongst a people where they are branded with disgrace. Thirdly : — The philanthropist will hail with infinite satisfaction the establishment of a settlement which, whilst it provides for the proper punishment of offenders against the laws, affords the best possible op- portunity of promoting and encouraging genuine reform — a reform that would eventually restore the penitent to society, and moreover without the outward symbol of past crime that would cause it, by rejecting him, to drive him back on his evil habits. The process would be accom- plished without the risk of any moral stain upon the innocent, and the 383 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. locality proposed is physically adapted, by a very remarkable combina- tion of circumstances,, to the promotion of morality. A juvenile (/'on- vict Agricultural School, on principles already tried elsewhere, might advantageously form part of the general system adopted in the Falk- lands ; and, being entirely separate from the adult establishment, would prove a valuable aid in the progress of reformation. Fourthly : — The most convenient place for re-fit for our merchant- men and foreigners, as well as for steamers, trading between Europe and the Pacific, would speedily be rendered perfectly available. The enormous port charges of the east and west coast ports of South Ame- rica would be avoided. Freight would be saved to shipowners, and the comforts of passing emigrants promoted, by the facility of re-pro- visioning and watering half way. And all this at a port wholly uncon- nected with the convict settlement, where a small dockyard could be economically constructed, and would amply and speedily repay the ex- pense incurred. Fifthly : — Her Majesty's ships, and those of the merchant navy also, could undergo repair here cheaper than at any port in those seas — and, if a patent slip were laid down, more speedily ; for at present there is not, strange to say, one patent slip south of the line, on all the coast round to Callao. This important advantage would effect an immense saving in the cost of Her Majesty's squadron constantly kept afloat on the east coast, and that also on the west coast of South America, one item of which would be a fortnight to three weeks' saving of wear and tear on every voyage home from the Pacific. This consideration becomes of double importance now that Russian men-of-war are known to be in the Pacific on the look-out for our merchantmen. Sixthly : — As lines of steamers are established round the Horn, the Falklands are the point of all others most suitable for a coaling station, (as the documents in this work from the most competent authorities have abundantly proved,) and one that in time of war could be easily ren- dered impregnable. And, lastly, now that war is in reality upon us, with the certainty of being a tolerably long one, it is diificult to exaggerate the advantage which the possession of these islands would afford to Great Britain in respect to their position, provided proper works were constructed, for which there are great local advantages. In this point of view, any protracted delay in rendering the Falklands thoroughly available as a first-rate naval station, on the footing of Gibraltar and other places, would appear to be an oversight. The whole of the above objects may be speedily accomplished with the accession of convict labour ; without it, the prospect of these ad- vantages is verj remote, and their realization might, at any moment, be frustrated by the colony passing (as heretofore) into the hands of some more enterprising nation, whose rulers may entertain a shrewd notion of the vast importance attaching to a naval station that may truly be called ' the key to the Pacific' One position may be advanced as indisputable ; namely, that now war has involved us with at least one of the great maritime powers, the entire Pacific fishery, and the THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 383 whole trade on and about the Western Coasts of Atnerica, may come under the absolute control of the possessors of the Falkland Islands, should a coup de main of our unscrupulous foe bring about the tempo- rary transfer of the station to him. P.S. Since the above was in type, Mr. Bentley has published a work from the pen of Earl Grey, entitled ' The Colonial Policy of Lord John Russell's Administration,' containing much valuable matter relative to the system of transportation, and a brief notice of the Falk- land Islands. Respecting the Falklands, the noble Earl observes, that the object of the Government was — ' To create a small settlement, where passing ships might re-fit and obtain supplie for which these islands, notwithstanding the inclemency of their climate, were considered to be peculiarly well adapted, from their possessing admirable harbours, and lying directly in the track of vessels returning to this country ii'om Australia, or the Pacific, by Cape Horn. They also afibrded considerable resources in the herds of wild cattle which are to be found upon them.' His lordship goes on to remark, that * An arrangement was con- cluded by which a regular communication will be established between this country and the Falkland Islands, by means of a small vessel plying between these islands and Monte Video, where it will meet the mail steamer from England every alternate month,' And that, ' Hitherto this settlement has not advanced rapidly ; probably it would hardly have been expected to do so, unless a larger expenditure had been incurred than was considered advisable in carrjdng out and establishing emigrants there ; but it seems now to have taken root, and will, I trust, do well hereafter. Already, from the growing up of some little trade, and from land having been brought into cultivation, it has been found possi- ble, in the last four years, to discontinue the issue of rations from the Government stores to the inhabitants, who can now purchase for themselves what they require. Those of the working-class can find ample employment at good wages, and ships which call there can depend upon obtaining the most necessary supplies. The advantages ofiered by this place of call on the long voyage home are beginning to be known, so that each year more vessels are stopping there on their way ; and, from the great increase of the trade with Australia and California, it is probable that the port of Stanley (the name of the settlement) will be more and more resorted to. I am informed that a ship wanting, water or provisions, in the nm home from Cape Horn, may save not less than from ten days to a fortnight by calling at Stanley, instead of Buenos Ayres, or Rio de Janeiro besides having no port charges to pay. In proportion as more vessels call for supplies, these will be furnished more abundantly and better, since private enterprise will be sure to meet the demand which the greater resort of shipping to the port will create. It is to be hoped, also, that the means of re-fitting ships that have suffered in the stormy passage round Cape Horn, which already exist to some extent, will be increased there in the same manner, and that the plan of establishing there a patent slip, which was at one time under consideration with a view of its being undertaken by the Government, will he taken up as a private speculation.' The annexed official document has been presented to Parliament during the present session ; and although its date is anterior to that of the valuable com- munication from Capt. Matthews, of the Great Britain, as already quoted, it so materially confirms the value of the settlement as to suggest that Govern- ment should lose no time in increasing the two-monthly mail service now existing between the islands and Monte Video, and in erecting a patent slip, as they have lately done a hghthouse ; for it is obvious that the Falklands must now assume, in the consideration of England, the status to which their political, as well as theh geographical, position entitles them : 384 THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. Copy of a despatch from Governor Rennie to the Right Honourable bcr- John S. Pakington,- Bart.— Government House, Stanley, Falkland Islands, January 8, l^S.— {Received March \T,WbS.)—Sir,—In transmitting the Blue Book of this colony for the year ending Mist December 1852, 1 have the iionouf. to report a, qpntinuaihce of the sh,me steady, though ~^t very rapid progress, which has prevailed -in this small community during the last jour years. The resort of shipping to these islands for supplies and repairs, form^- ing one of the chief sources of prosperity, it is gratifying for me to observe the progressive increase shown by the returns of the year just ended over that of the prerious year. In the year ending December 1851, 17,538 tons of shipping from England and foreign parts entered this harbour; in the year ending December 1852, there were 22,024 tons, being an increase of 4,486 tons. This augmentation necessarily produces a demand for produce, labour, and stores of every description, affording remunerative profits to the store- keepers, and emjiloymenf at good wages to the labouring classes, unskilled 3s. to 5s. per diem, and skilled 6s. to 10s. Provisions are abundant, and at rea- sonable pric.es. Tlie transference to the Falkland Islands Company of the large interests held by Mr. Lafone, and the commencement by that corpora- tion of a more compreheiuive system of operation, supported by a large capi- tal, gives ms very favourable hopes of benefit to the colony, and I trust to the shareholders. It is, howeva; worthy of remark, that whilst a powerful com- pany, invested with great privileges by Her Majesty's Government {as regards its property in land and cattle) has likewise established a considerable mercantile warehouse in the.tovm cf Stanley, tlie. general businfSJ is going on so satisfactorily that all the original storekeepers are now adding to their premises and extending their dealings'. The master of a barque, the Record, lately in the harbour, publicly notified that he would take passengers to the gold diggings in Australia at \0l. per head, and it gives me much pleasure to add, that not a p>Rrson could be found in the colony to accept his propoai ■ Hon. In the year 1849, I put ujj for sale 12 allotments of one acre each, of suburban land near the town, suitable for the working classes to build on or to cultivate as gardens, and the amount realized averaged dl. per acre, being ■three times the usual government price. A few weeks since, having been given to understand that other parties wished to have an opportunity of purchasing similar allotments, I selected 11 of the same extent, but not quite equal to the former in situation. The prices on this occasion reached \2l. per acre on the average, or six times the usual fixed sum, and twice that of 1849. The grumbling and discontent manifested by a portion of the enrolled pensioners settled here has subsided since the notification to them by the Secretary-at- War that they were at liberty to return to England if they preferred to do so, nor has even one of them up to the present time availed himself of the permission. Small, comparatively, as the instances are which I have the honour to communicate, I trust they may lead to a more just appreciation of the capabilities and utility of this colony, and of the favourable prospects which it affords to steady and industrious emigrants. — I have, l^c. {Signed) George Rennie.— r/ie Right Hon. Sir John S. Pakington, Bart. S>c., b)C. 1 o o P4 09 00 o 00 bo 1^ M H p o o I iz; I— ( W g S^ Is ^ s §^L - r « ® s 1*1 3 =^ g 0^ g^iS .•-g 2- en's ^ s si< v|lr| wis e If ^|i|iiiisiiit|ii|r '^Bqs Ski g .a O -S ct? kS -KJ ^v L^ ^ ^Z 8 g-^ So a ^■^s S'SS oj-a S 2^ o - |5gl.:||^|S|||||8||. 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