Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924020589283 Cornell University Library NP1850.R321921 The orchard, lawn and garden gulde:a rea 3 1924 020 589 283 "Wherever we find trees, shrubs, flowers, and lawns, well arranged and neatly kept up, be it in park, estate or less pre- tentious home grounds, we see reflected a spirit of refinement which makes for good citizenship." •^ Orchard, Lawn and Garden Guide A Ready Reference Guide For the Growing o| Vegetables, Shade and Fruit Trees. Flowers and Shrubs. Lawn Making, Pruning and Sprayini, etc. BY GEO. H. REED 2nd Edition vwlfi f. (1 l.'i 11- Copyright 1921 By GEORGE H. REED NF FreSB of BBOWN-MORRISON CO., Inc. Lynchburg, Virginia PREFACE The first edition of this book under the name of "The A. B. C. Garden Book," published in the spring of 1920, was a small booklet on vegetable gardening. The book was hardly out of press before I realized the demand for a larger and more complete book, covering a wider field. This is my second effort to bring before the public a book that will be useful to city and small town gardeners, and while I have exercised every care in choosing reliable information, I can scarcely hope to have escaped errors. With many years expierience in gardening, planting, prun- ing £md spraying, as well as propagating, soiling and lawn- making, I have here tried to give the reader the benefit of this experience. Should you find any errors or important omissions, I would appreciate your calling my attention to them, as it will be helpful to me in compiling other editions. I am indebted to Henry A. Dreer Co., Philadelphia, Pa., for an article on floral culture, J. Van Lindley, Pomona, N. C, on "Fruits for the South," J. M. Thorbum & Co., Seedsmen, 54 Barclay St., N. Y., on "Why Some Seed Fail to Grow." February 1, 1921. GEO. H. REED. Lynchburg, Va. DEDICATION To the thousands of home-makers and builders, of the Vir- ginias and Carolinas, who love and appreciate the comforts and enjoyment of a beautiful home, I dedicate this guide. Believing that it will prove helpful to you in developing a good garden, shrubs, trees and beautiful lawns. GEORGE H. REED. FOREWORD To the city dweller, the Suburban residenter, and to all who only have a small piece of ground that you think worthless, wherever you may reside, should you be so fortunate as to secure this book, do not cast it aside, but study it, as it will enable you to make profitable and beautiful, that which has been an eye-sore and a menace to health, in so many instances "The Back Yard." "If he who causes two stocks table than those bought from a distance. Many persons who work in offices, stores and factories have time mornings and evenings that may well be devoted to the cultivation of a gar- den, thus utilizing spare time and idle land for food produc- tion. HUMUS FOR GARDEN IN OCTOBER Though most crops may now be harvested and safely stored for the winter, the home gardener should not rest on his oars until everything possible has been done with a view to being prepared for an early start next spring and improving, if pos- sible, the quality of his soil. The majority of soils lack humus, which is usually supplied in the form of stable manure, but manure is now so scarce and expensive that plant food is in many gardens limited to commercial fertilizers. Good ferti- 12 Ebed's Garden Guide lizers are all right in their way, and necessary, but they do not supply the humus which adds so much to the mechanical con- dition of soils. It is well that humus can be added in other forms than animal manures ; thus green crops may be grown to turn under, which, as they decay in the soil, become humus, while the plant food is given to the crops in the form of fertilizers. Soiling, or green-manure, crops most generally used are clovers, vetch, buckwheat, cowpeas, and rye. For poor soil, clovers or cow- peas are best, due to the nitrogen they gather from the atmos- phere and convey to the soil through their roots, a character- istic of all legtmies. But it is now much too late to sow any of the cover crops named except rye. All vacant ground should be spaded over or plowed, given a dressing of lime, raked or harrowed, and seeded with rye; it is very hardy and will continue growing during all mild weather, and when turned under in spring will furnish consid- erable humus. In gardens where manure is plentiful and cover crops are not necessary, or where the ground has been cleared too late to sow rye — in most localities it may be sown up to the end of October. — ^the ground should be spaded or plowed and left rough over winter. Give the land a dressing of lime. Besides sweetening the soil it destroys many insect pests and disease germs. By the aid of rain, snow and frost it will gradually work its way into the soil. Apply in fine powder form, at the rate of twenty pounds for forty square yards. CROP ROTATION The chief success lies in crop rotation, for which the fol- lowing schedule should help the small gardener: Early peas, March 1st to 30th; owing to locality; followed by celery, August 1st to 10th. Eeed's Garden Guide 13 Early beets, April 1st to May 1st; followbd by celery, August 1st to 10th. Early lettuce, as soon as soil is in workable condition in spring, followed by carrots. May 1st; followed by celery, August 1st. Early tomatoes as soon as dfuiger of frost is over, with fall turnips sown at last cultivation of tomatoes. Early carrots, April 1st; followed by late snaps, August 1st. Onion sets planted in previous fall and sold as green onions in springs, followed by tomatoes with turnips at last cultiva- tion of tomatoes. Early radishes as soon as soil can be worked, followed by beans. May 1st to 10th; followed by celery, August 1st to 10th. Parsnips, May 1st to 10th, occupying whole season. Early cabbage, April 1st; followed by late snaps, August 1st. Early peas as soon as ground can be worked, followed by late tomatoes, latter part of June, with crimson clover sown at last cultivation. Salsify, May 1st to 10th, occupying whole season. Early radishes, as soon as soil can be worked, followed by beets, June 1st to 15th; followed by kale in fall. 14 Reed's Garden Guide WHAT CAN BE REALIZED J^ROM A SMALL GARDEN BASED ON ONLY ONE CROP AND NORMAL PRICES Celery, 150 bunches, at 15c. $22.50 Beets, 45 bunches, at 10c 4.50 Fifty bunches lettuce, at 8c 4.00 Forty bimches radishes, at 8c 3.20 Forty gallons of tomatoes, at 40c gallon 16.00 Carrots, 40 btuiches, at 6c 2.40 Onions, 60 bunches, at 12c 7.20 Beans, 25 gallons, at 40c gallon 10.00 Parsnips, 35 bunches, at 5c 1.75 Twenty-four hbads cabbage, at lOc 2.40 Peas, 12 gallons, at 40c 4.80 Salsify, 40 bunches, at 10c 4.00 Total , $82.75 This amount does not include the sale of currants, goose- berries, strawberries, and, as stated above, on only one crop. A BIO LITTLE GARDEN A few years ago the writer was invited to visit a garden in Roanoke City that was being cultivated by a mechanic foreman in a large shop. All the gardening was done after 5:30 p. m. and on holidays. The garden was about 35 feet long and 20 feet wide. It was the largest little garden I've ever seen. First two rows were English peas in full bearing, next two rows about 100 stalks head lettuce, two rows bush beans hanging full, two rows white plume celery, following two rows of Para- gon tomatoes full of fruit; around the edges or sides of the garden were rows of endive, parsley and salsify. There was Reed's Gakden Guide 15 not even one weed in the whole plot. All the plants, especially the tomatoes, were healthy, strong plants, free from insect pests. Around the house, in the border beds, were planted and in full foliage, about 18 inches apart, Detroit early beets, and between each beet was an African Marigold in bloom; for an edging plant was used lettuce and parsley. Over the front porch grew pole limas that entwined themselves around the rambler roses, the limas were the Leviathan sort and hung in clusters. On the opposite side of the house were border beds of saffron, asters. Ruby King pepper, scarlet sage, cabbage and geraniums. This man showed me a bushel of yellow Danvers onions he raised where now grew his tomatoes, a few jars of pickles that grew where he then had lettuce, and late in August he planned to sow his garden in kale for salad. His wife showed me the pantry shelves filled with jars of canned peas, tomatoes, pepper, pickle, beets, and lima beans, all products of her husband's "big little garden" in the corner of their back yard. This garden was made a success by crop rotation and properly working each plant. CULTIVATING THE GARDEN No garden can be a paying proposition without intensive cultivation. If possible, spade or plow from 8 to 10 inches deep your garden in the fall or early spring, supplying well- rotted stable manure or other good compost to turn under. Prepare your soil for small seeds and plants to a fine, smooth surface. After plants are 2 inches high, with a hilling hoe or rake, cultivate them shallow to conserve moisture. Shallow cultivation of plants is much better than deep cultivation, as is proved in dry seasons. The deeper you cultivate the less moisture you will have around your plant. Don't let a single weed grow in your garden. A good garden rake is a good cul- tivator, especially if it is used in a criss-cross way, working 16 Reed's Garden Guide one way to-day and to-morrow raking over same ground in the opposite way. Eteep plowing and shallow cultivation is the rule. PURCHASING SEED Buy seed from a reliable dealer. Insist on buying seed which have beem tested as to their vitality and germinating qualities. Poor seed are dear at any cost, and only the best should be planted. What a disappointment, as well as loss of valuable time and money, if, after a whole season's toil and care, you dis- cover the fact that your cabbage did not head, your tomatoes were under size and hardly fit for table use, the squashes, cu- cumbers and melons bloomed profusely but no fruit matured. Be particular of the seed Mrs. S-and-So hands you across the garden fence, she may have good intentions, but she says Mrs. Somfebody Else "gave them to me and told me how good they were a few years ago, so I thought I would divide with you." Watch these seed. They may be old, and while they may look good and even grow to good healthy plants, it is not un- likely that they are too old to produce fruit. WHY SOME SEED FAIL TO GROW Seeds of best quality will sometimes fail through improper treatment. Thus, a small seed may be sown so deeply that the young plant cannot reach the surface. More failures result from disregard of the conditions necessary to germinaiion than from inferiority of the seeds used. These conditions are: A proper temperature, sufficient moisture and free access of air. Besides these, the soil must be in proper condition and present no physical obstacles to the growth of the young plant. If heavy rains have compacted Reed's Garden Gotde 17 the surface of the soil, and the sun has baked it to a hard crust, it will be impossible, even if all other conditions arfe favorable, for the seedling plants to force their way through it, and many perish from this cause alone. Seeds di£Fer greatly as to the temperature required for ger- mination. Beets, cress, peas, etc., germinate rapidly at a tem- perature of 45 degrees, but if melons and other seeds of that family, bush or pole beans, and other plants of subtropical origin are sown under the same conditions, they will be apt to decay, as for their prompt germination they require a heat of at least 60 degrees. For this reason nlany seeds fail yearly from too early sowing. The second condition, proper moisture, is likely to be violated by an excess rather than by too small a portion. The proper amount is that which a well-drained soil will naturally hold. Free excess of air is all-important, and this is interfered with by an excess of water in the soil. In germination, complex chemical changes take place in the seeds, in which thie air performs an important part. A portion of the seed is consimied, carbonic acid gas being given off in changLag the starch and other constituents of the seed into nutriment to forward the growth of the germ or embryo plant, which depends upon the contents of the seed until it forms roots below ground and leaves above, and is able to sustain itself. Besides these conditions affecting the germination of the seed, the young plants, after they have made their way to the surface, are liable to various accidents; a sudden current of very cold air, or a continuous drying wind may check their growth or destroy them altogether. In addition, there are nimierous insects, both below and above ground, that may attack the plants, some of them being so small that they often dfestroy a crop before they are dis- covered. 18 Reed's Garden Guide We may also mention the well-known tendency of many vegetables to revert to their original types, notwithstanding the carp of the seed-grower; the yellow-podded wax beans becom- ing green, the yellow and white celery becoming more or less green, dwarf peas becoming running sorts, etc. PLANTING SUGGESTIONS In preparing the following guide for planting, with refer- ence to varieties suitable for this climate, I am giving the names of varieties that I have cultivated with success. Of course you may have a pet variety of bunch beans for instance, that you have found better than the kinds I am listing, and if such is the case, I would suggest that you follow up your own method. There are many kinds and varieties of vegetable seed on the market, most of them are good, tried and true to name sorts, but many varieties that do well north of Maryland would prove a failure in this part of the South. The following vegetables I have grown in this section and will vouch for their success if the proper attention is given to their culture and habits: ARTICHOKE ^ Jerusalem. Green Globe. Sow seed in hotbed in March, transplant in rows 3 feet apart, 2 feet apart in row, give protection during winter. If properly cared for will last from four to six years. ASPARAGUS Palmetto. Giant Argenteuil. Set roots in beds 5 feet wide, 3 rows to a bed, 1% feet apart in row. Asparagus should have a deep sandy loam soil, en- riched with stable manure every fall. An application of wood Reed's Gabden Guide 19 ashes over the beds is beneficial to the plants if applied early in the spring or during the winter. Set roots about 6 inches below surface of the beds. If RUST appears on tips apply dry sulphur with a hand duster on dewy mornings after beds have been cut several weeks. For SLUGS, apply slacked lime. BEANS DwAKF Snaps. Dwarf Wax. Tenn. Green Pod. Refugee Wax. Black Valentine. Wardwell Kidney Wax. Stringless Green Pod. Valentine Wax. Burpees Giant. Refugee. Pole Beans. Kentucky Wonder. Shell or Winter Beans. Boston Navy. Scarlet Runner.* White Marrowfat. Pole beans have grown into disfavor because of the Ameri- can characteristic of seeking short cuts and labor-saving de- vices. Bush beans have the call, particularly in the string bean class. There are two very good reasons for growing pole beans instead of the bush variety. First of all, a pole bean furnishes a vastly greater quantity of beans per plant than does the bush variety and identical in quality. Bush limas are not prolific bearers, comparatively speaking, and the pole lima is much to be preferred. Secondly, the bearing season is almost twice as long. A third reason is that it is much less wearing on the back and legs to pick beans standing up than it is stooping over and •Scarlet runner beans are very ornamental, producing beauti- ful bright red flowers and usually are planted on trellises, arbors, and fences. They are also a splendid shell bean for winter use. 20 Eeed's Garden Guide squatting down in the hot sun, as is necessary in harvesting bush beans. One reason pole beans are grown so little compared with the dwarf varieties is because of the trouble and difficulty of securing and setting poles. It isn't as bad a job as it looks, for once poles are secured they may be put away in the fall and used for several seasons. Putting them in place is some- thing of a job, but it is worth the trouble. Pole beans take longer to come into bearing and are a fine continuation crop for bush beans. One usual mistake is in getting too short poles. On six-foot poles the vines will tumble back when they have reached the top, intertwine and smother themselves. It is best to get eight or nine-foot poles and set them a foot deep in the ground. Carry strings from the top of one pole to another and the vines will take the strings in a hurry, leaving the beans to hang down in plain sight where they can be easily harvested. If there is a scarcity of poles, make a wigwam or tent plant- ing. This is done by planting the beans in a circle around the pole from two to two and a half feet from the base of the pole, the beans about eight inches apart. Let strings come from the top of the pole to each bean and the vines will make the tent, once they get going. A very practical and easy way to grow pole beans is as •»orch vines instead of morning glories or wild cucumbers. Pole Limas. Bush Limas. Carpenteria. Burpees Improved. King of the Garden. Fordhook. Leviathan. As a farinaceous food for man, the bean is considered far superior to any other legume, and next to wheat in importance. About May 1st, when the ground is warm, sow in drills 2 feet apart, about 3 inches deep; drop the beans 3 inches apart Reed's Garden Gxjide 21 in drills, and cover 2 inches. Sow every two weeks to August ISth for a succession. Lima beans should not be sown as early as the other sorts, and poles should be set for the running kinds at the time beans are planted. Pole limas are planted 3 in a hill, hills 3 feet apart. Pod-spot is a brown-red scabby spot appearing on stems and pods, particularly on yellow-podded snap beans. In sav- ing seed from beans, save only the ones free from these spots, as the infected ones lie dormant during the winter and become active when the bean is pleuited. For RUST, Blight or Pod- Spot, spray with Bordeaux 4-4-50 at intervals of 10 days or two weeks, if possible from underside of leaves. Dusting with some of the many formulas on the market will also be effective, especially those containing tobacco dust. BEETS Detroit Dark Red. Crosby's Egyptian. Crimson Globe. Sow seed in drills 1 foot apart and 1 inch deep; when plants are large enough, thin out to 4 inches apart. Seed can be sown in March and July. BROCCOLI A vegetable which resembles cauliflower, and often grows where cauliflower does not thrive. Culture same as cauliflower. Plants should be watered in dry weather. Cultivate often. BROOM CORN Evergreen. The best variety to plant in this section. Sow in May, in drills 3 feet apart, thin out to stand 3 inches apart in the row. 22 Ebed's Garden Guide BRUSSELS SPROUTS Miniature heads of cabbage which grow on the stems of the stalk. Sow seed about May 15th; transplant when 4 inches high in rows 30 inches apart, 20 inches apart in the row. When the heads begin to crowd, the lower leaves should be broken off the stem to give them plenty of room. Brussels Sprouts are best for cooking after a slight frost. CABBAGE Early. Late. Copenhagen Market. Late Flat Dutch. Early Jersey Wakefield. Danish Ballhead. Charleston Wakefield. Sow seed in a bed or in shallow boxes indoors in March. Transplant in rows 12 inches apart, and plant plants in row 18 inches apart. Late cabbage should be planted the last of June or first of July. Cabbage should not be planted in the same location for two successive years. Give thorough and clean cultivation. CABBAGE WORMS or the green caterpillars hatch from eggs laid by the common white butterfly. To control this pest, spray with kerosene emulsion, if cabbage is not heading; if heading, apply hellebore. A good way to get rid of these worms is to go to the patch every few days just- before sunset and inspect the underside of leaves and pick off the worms. They feed mostly at night on the tender leaves of cabbag-; and other plants. CARROT OxHEART Half Short. Danver's Half Long. Sow in drills a foot apart and thin to 2 inches. Carrots do best in a warm, deep fertile soil. Cultivate thoroughly. Car- Reed's Garden Guide 23 rot tops are sometimes used as ornamental foliage plants for indoors. Take one or two small plants and plant in a 4-inch pot, cutting ofif part of the root. They make fine decorative plants, with beautiful fronds hanging over sides of pot. CAULIFLOWER Snowball. Danish Gunt. Sow seed in hotbeds or window boxes in February and transplant in cold frames. When hard frosts are over, plant in rows 3 feet apart, 2 feet apart in row. When heads begin to form, tie the tops of the leaves over the center. Spray or dust for WORMS same as cabbage. CELERY Early. Winter. White Plume. Giant Pascal. Golden Self-blanching. Winter Queen. Sow in hotbeds in March or in open ground in April. When plants are 3 inches high transplant to another bed until July, when they are transplanted to a shallow trench (about 6 or 8 inches deep). Cut off taproot when planting in trench, and firmly press the soil to each plant; set plants 6 to 8 inches apart. As the plants grow, draw earth from sides of trench to plants. Keep down all weeds, and fertilize with liquid manure after plants are set. Where you have no root cellar, it is best to protect the stalks with leaves or straw and cover with boards for winter. Another way is to dig a trench in the garden and transplant the stalks in trench close together, protecting them with leaves and boards in severe weather. For CELERY BLIGHT or RUST spray with Bordeaux mixture (see formula). 24 Reed's Garden Guide CELERIC Turnip Rooted Celery. The tender tops of Celeric leaves is used for soups, etc. Roots can be stored away like beets. Cultivate same as celery, but is not necessary to blanch. CHICORY Whitloof. The roots are easily produced from seed, sown in May or June, in rows as one would endive. They are taken up after a few hard frosts and cared for the same as Turnips or similar crops. Used only as a winter vegetable, the top part only being edible. Plant under a bench in the greenhouse or a light, dry, warm portion of a cellar in a bed of rich garden soil 12 inches deep. Place about 6 inches apart each way. The top growth remains intact, as the illustration shows, and may be cut anytime after 5 inches growth, before the heads begin to expand. Roots should be set in the soil the same depth as they were originally in the garden. A continuous supply of this delicious winter vegetable can be had from December 1st to April 1st. A cold frame makes also an ideal place for forcing them in the late winter or early spring months. CUCUMBERS Long Green. Klondike. White Spine. Early Fortune. Sow about May 1st in hills 3 to 5 feet apart made rich with well-rotted stable manure. Sow at intervals for a succession. For pickles, plant from June until July 15th. Thin out to 4 plants to a hill. Reed's Garden Guide 25 Good results have been obtained by planting the seed in sods turned with grass side down. It is said that there is less danger of beetle destruction by using this method. CORN Sweet or Sugar. Stowell's Evergreen. Golden Bantam. Adam's Extra Early. Country Gentleman. White Cory. Plant in hills 3 feet apart each way, covering 1 inch deep and thin to 3 stalks. For succession plant every two weeks up to July 20th. Corn does best in a well-prepared rich loamy soil and re- quires intensive cultivation. COLLARDS Creole. Georgu. Sow seed same as cabbage. EGG PLANT Black Beauty. Florida Highbush. Sow in hotbeds very early in spring and transplant when 3 inches high into a second bed or into small pots. Do not plant to open ground until all danger of frost is over, as cool nights check the plants. Set out plants 3x2 feet. Use liquid manure once or twice after setting out. ENDIVE White Curled. Broad Leaved Batavian. Green Curled. Best for fall. Endive is one of the most wholesome salads grown for winter use. For early use sow in April ; for late or main crop, in June or July, in drills 12 inches apart; when plants are 2 26 Eeed's Garden Guide or 3 inches high, thin to 10 inches apart in row. When fully grown it should be loosely tied together at tops and earth drawn to plants and blanched like celery. GOURDS African Pipe. Pear Shaped. Apple Shaped. Spoon. Bottle Gourds. Turk's Turban. Calabash. Used for dippers. Hercules' Club. LuFFA. (Dish-Rag, Sponge Gourd). Rapid growing, interesting annual climbers. Ornamental and useful. Give thorough and clean cultivation, plant along fences or on trellises. HORSE RADISH Maliner Kren. (Bohemian). Set the roots in spring, in rows 6 inches apart, about the same distance in the row. Late in the fall lift as many as you think you will use, cut off the top, place them in a cool cellar, covered with soil or sand ; grate as wanted. A bed once planted remains for years. KALE Dwarf Green Curled. Dwarf Curled Scotch. Cultivate and grow like cabbage. KOHL RABI Purple Vienna. White Vienna. Sow seed in early spring, in hotbeds or outdoors, and transplant when 3 inches high in rows 18 inches apart, 6 inches Reed's Gabden Guide 27 in the row. The edible part is the root, which grows above the ground; this should be used when it attains a size of 21^ inches in diameter or less. At this stage it is extremely tender and delicious, while if allowed to get larger it is woody. Prepared and served like turnips, except that a few of the bottom leaves can be cooked with the root. LEEK Large Rouen. Musselburg. LoNDOR OR American Flag. Sow early in the spring in drills 1 foot apart and 1 inch deep. When plants are 8 inches high set in a deep rich soil, in rows 12 inches apart and 6 inches in the row, as deep as possible, so that the neck may be covered and blanched; draw earth to them as they grow. The seed may also be sown in September, plants to be transplanted in the spring. LETTUCE Big Boston. Black Seeded Simpson. Grand Rapids Forcing. Boston Market. Iceberg. Sow seed in hotbed in March and transplant in rows 1 foot apart, 8 inches between each plant, cultivate thoroughly. Head lettuce, such as the Big Boston, does not head up very well in hot weather. For a succession of crops sow seed thinly in open ground and thin the plants to 5 or more inches apart. MARTYNIA Unicorn Plant — Proboscidea The seed pods used for pickling when gathered young and tender. Sow seed in open ground in May in hills 3 feet apart each way. 28 Ebed's Garden Guide MUSKMELONS Jenny Lind. Emerald Gem. Rocky Ford. Netted Rock. Melons thrive best in a light, rich soil. Plant May 1st to 10th in hills 4 feet apart each way. Before sewing seed, enrich your hills with well-rotted stable manure. Plant 15 to 20 seed to a hill and, after danger of bugs is over, thin to 4 plants. Melons are subject to the same striped beetle that infests the cucumber and squash, and are sprayed with the same solution. Early and repeated spraying with Bordeaux mixture is advis- able. WATERMELON Tom Watson. Dixie. Sweetheart. Culture same as muskmelons. OKRA Dwarf Green Prolific. Pods are picked when green and tender and used in soup mixtures. Sow seed in rich ground about May 1st in rows 3 feet apart, 1 inch deep; thin to 10 inches apart in drill. ONION Yellow Danvers. Red Wethersfield. Prizeiaker. Globe Danvers. Silver Skin. Sow seed April 15th in drills 12 inches apart, and thin to 2 inches apart in row. Give thorough and clean cultivation during the summer. The seed bed must be thoroughly pre- pared, and if the proper cultivation is given the young plants. Eeed's Garden Guide 29 large onions can be grown very easily, especially the varieties as the Yellow Danvers and Red Wethersfield. ONION SETS Potato Onions. Red Wethersfield. White Multiplier. Yellow Danvers. Onion sets are set in rows 12 inches apart, with sets 2 inches apart in row. If possible, set in the fall. PARSLEY Moss Curled. Fern Leaved. Soak seed in water a few hours before planting and sow early in spring in rows 1 foot apart, and thin to 3 inches apart in row. Be sure to prepare soil finely and pat down with the spade or hoe over the seed. Parsley seed is slow to germinate. PARSNIPS Hollow Crown. Guernsey. Sow early in spring in rows 16 inches apart, thin to 6 inches apart in rows. Frequent cultivation is necessary. The quality of the roots is improved by leaving them in the ground all winter for spring use. PEAS Early Varieties. Late Crop. Little Gem. Telephone. American Wonder, Pride of the Market. Alaska. Potlatch. Second Early. Black-eyed Marrowfat. Abundance. Edible Pod Sugar Peas. Duke of Albany. Mammoth Melting. Lincoln. 30 Reed's Gaeden Guide Peas are cultivated like corn or beans; soil must be well enriched and in good tillable condition. Plant in rows 3 feet apart and set stakes or brush in row for supports. A good way is to plant peas in double rows, and thus one line of brush or stakes will do for two rows. PEANUTS Peanuts can be grown in any good garden soil, where they will yield an abundant crop. The peanut plant enriches the soil by gathering nitrogen. One peck of unshelled nuts will plant 14 °f ^^ acre. Shells must be removed before planting. PEPPER Pimento. Bell or Bull Nose. Ruby King. Red Cherry. Sow in flats under glass in March, transplant to other flats when 2 inches high. When weather is warm transplant again to rows 2 feet apart, with plants 16 inches apart in row. PE-TSAI (Chinese or Celery Cabbage) This resembles in appearance and growth a head of Cos Romaine or Celery Lettuce. The heads are very firm, almost like cabbage. The flavor is delightful, not at all like cabbage, but rather on the order of Witloof Chicory or French Endive. It can be planted as a spring or autumn crop. The head does not become as high then as when sown in spring, and is adapted in that season rather as a lettuce than as cabbage. May be forced readily in a cold frame. The plants are handled much like lettuce, except that they should be set from 15 to 18 inches apart, the rows 2 to 21^ feet apart. Reed's Garden Guide 31 POTATOES Green Mountain. Early Rose. Irish Cobbler. Rural New Yorker. Potatoes require a well-drained, loamy soil. It is best to apply stable manure the year before planting. Plant good- sized pieces with not less than 2 or 3 eyes, 16 inches apart in the furrows, furrows 2^/^ feet apart. Spray with Bordeaux mixture for FLEA BEETLE, POTATO BEETLE and BLIGHT ^see spraying formula) ; for control of SCAB, see formula on page 112. SWEET POTATOES * Nancy Hall. Red and Yellow Nansemond. Procure good, stocky slips, set on a ridge of well-prepared soil about 10 inches apart, keep all weeds down by thoroughly working ridge, which should not be over 4 inches high. If vines make a very rapid growth, they should be clipped off so as to throw more strength in the roots. Sweet potatoes like a sandy, loose soil. PUMPKIN Golden Cashaw. Early Sugar. Large Cheese. Tennessee Sweet Potato. Sow in good soil in May in hills 10 feet apart each way. Pumpkin varieties if planted together will mix. Plant about 5 seed to a hill. If large fruit is wanted, pinch off all but a few buds. Spray or dust for beetles as in melons and cucum- bers. POP-CORN Queens Golden. White Rice. Plant and cultivate as other corn. 32 Reed's Gaeden Guide RADISH Early Scarlet Globe. Dreer's Crystal Forcing. Long Scarlet Short Top. Summer Varieties. Winter Varieties. Icicle. Scarlet China. White Strasburg. Round Black Spanish. Radishes do best in a sandy loam soil. The summer kinds will make a crop within 4 to 5 weeks. Sow in drills a foot apart and a few laches apart in the row. Sow early and often. Sow winter radishes in July, August and September. RHUBARB ViCTORU. Plfuit two-year-old roots 3 feet apart each way in a perma- nent bed, well enriched with manure. SALSIFY Sandwich Island. Long White. Salsify is known as the vegetable oyster, and when boiled and made into cakes and fried like oysters very much resembles an oyster in flavor. Cultivate the same as parsnips. They can remaui in the garden all winter, but should be taken up before plants start to grow in spring. SPINACH Curled Leaved Savoy. Long Season. Victoria. For spring use, sow in rows 1 foot apart and 1 inch deep, as early as ground can be worked. For winter and early spring, sow in September in well-manured ground. It is well to protect with straw or leaves during the winter. Reed's Garden Guide 33 SQUASH Hubbard. Golden Custard Bush. Boston Marrow. Summer Crook Neck Cashaw. Plant from 10 to 15 seed in a hill enriched with stable manure. Thin to 4 plants to a hill after danger of striped beetles is over. To repel the squash-vine borer, throw a hand- ful of tobacco dust or coal ashes around the plants. For BEETLE and BLIGHT spray with Bordeaux. TOBACCO Warren. Oronoka. Virginia "One Sucker." Pryor, Blue. White Burlet. Pryor, Yellow. Most people like a few stalks of tobacco growing in the garden. The bloom is very fragrant and attracts butterflies. Some gardeners claim that a stalk of tobacco planted in every other hill of cucumbers or melons, helps to keep the bugs and beetles ofiF of the vines. Sow seed in flats indoors in April, cover lightly, when large enough transplant in rows 3 feet apart each way. Give thorough and frequent cultivation. TOMATO Set good short, stocky plants 4 feet apart each way. Do not use stable manure too heavily. Fertilize with liquid ma- nure or nitrate of soda. After plants are 12 inches high, the suckers should be cut from the main stalk with a knife that has been wiped ofif with a rag saturated with carbolic acid, this will help to keep down blight, as frequently an infected limb is cut and then a healthy one with the same blade, thus spreading from limb to limb and stalk to stalk. Stakes or trellises should be provided for the vines and kept tied up during the fruiting period. 34 Reed's Garden Guide Tomato seed should be sown in flats indoors in February and transplanted to other flats ^t least 2 times to make them stocky. Set plants a few inches deeper in the row than they were in the flat. I have grown over 25 varieties of tomatoes and have found them all good and true to name. There are over 50 varieties on the market, and I have found the following kinds probably a little better than the rest, although your particular ground or location may grow some of the odier kinds better than ones here listed. Probably the STONE, RED ROCK, TROPHY, and PARAGON are the best for canning and home use, while the Bonny Best, Chalk's Early Jewel, Acme, Ponderosa, etc., are the best for slicing. Following is a list of some of the tomatoes I have grown in this section: Sparks Earlianna. Matchless. John Bear. Ponderosa. Bontiy Best. Trophy. June Pink. Stone. Paragon. Truckers' Favorite. Acme. Brimmet. Pickling and preserving kinds: Pear-shaped Yellow. Ground Cherry. Pear-shaped Red. Grape Tomato. Yellow Plum. TURNIP Purple Top. Early White Egg. Strap Leaved Purple Top. Early White Flat DuTcti. Sow early in open ground in drills 1 foot apart. For fall and winter, sow in August, broadcasting over tomato or com ground. Take up roots just before freezing weather and store away in cellar. Reed's Garden GmoE 35 RUTABAGA Thorburn's Family. Budlong White Rock. Culture same as turnips. HERBACEOUS PLANTS Sow e£u:ly in spring in shallow drills, when up a few inches thin out. Basil Sweet — Seeds are used in soups, etc. Cabraway — Used in bread. Castor Oil Bean — Ornamental bedding plant. Coriander — ^Aromatic seeds. Dill — 'Used for making pickles, seeds for seasoning. Saffron — Used for flavoring. Thyme-French Summer — ^Used for seasoning. PERENNIAL HERBS Batm. Peppermint. Sweet Fennel. Sweet MajoraM. Lavinder. Broad Leaved ThymB. Tansy. COLD FRAMES Every gardener needs a cold frame aiid once he has one he can't realize how he ever got along without it They are not expenaive, as a practical working frame can be made of a soap box and small sash. It is nothing more than a box with a glass cover and old window sash with home made sides can be made up easily enough. The only requisite is a southern exposure and sufficient slant so that rain and melting snow will drain off. They may be had in all sizes from the home made soap box and sash to big affairs with concrete sides and double glass 36 Reed's Garden Guide sash. The whole principle is the glass and the protection of glass is remarkable in prolonging growth. A cold frame enables a gardener to grow head lettuce often into December unless it is an unusually severe fall. Parsley may be kept going for kitchen use and picked at every thaw. Pansies delight in the shelter of a frame and bloom until frozen and then start right in again when it thaws in the spring. Their chief value in early spring is for starting seeds of various subjects which are hardy enough to stand considerable cold and a light freeze, such as lettuce, asters and other seeds that need to be started early. SETTING PLANTS Most pleints should be set about l/^ inch deeper than they were in the plant beds or pots. A piece of round wood 10 inches long and 3 inches round, tapering to 1 inch at little end, makes a good planting tool or dibble. Push the dibble into the ground to the desired depth, set plant in the hole and with dibble make a slanting hole about 3 inches from plant and towards the roots of plant, withdraw the dibble and fill the hole with water, which will drain towards the roots. This method will protect the plant from baking and crusting the soil, as only the dry dirt should be put around the plant when plant is set. Many plants die on account of pouring a large quantity of water in the same hole where plants are set, as the sun bakes the earth around the plant, as well as creates a steam in hot weather and withers the tender plants before they have a chance to become established. In setting celery, cauliflower and cel- eric, the tip ends of the roots should be pinched off, as this will give a better root system. Set plants on cloudy days or late in the afternoon. If very hot weather, protect with plant pro- tectors or brush to shield them from the sun for a few days after setting. Reed's Garden Guide 37 WATERING THE GARDEN If possible, do not water at all. But if it becomes necessary in very dry times, apply water to each plant and cover a little dry dirt over the wet place to conserve your moisture. If water- ing is done with a garden hose, use a fine mist nozzle. Do not drench or splash water on the garden too freely. "POMATOES" Several years ago I planted a few potato eyes in pots, after they were several inches high I cut all the branches off except one, into which I grafted the tip branch of a Stone tomato. The plant grew to a vigorous, healthy tomato stalk, and on June 6th I set plant in the open ground in the garden. In July I gathered 9 pounds of tomatoes that were true Stone in size and flavor; in September I carefully dug the plant which had home 11 medium-sized potatoes, the top of the stalk had 17 green tomatoes. I exhibited the whole stalk at the 1917 Great Roanoke Fair, where it attracted a great deal of attention. I Naturally called them "Pomatoes," or I could have called them "Topatoes" as well. The November 29th, 1919, edition of The Rural New Yorker has the following to say about these "compound plants": Tomato Grafted on Potato "At the New York State School of Agriculture at Morris- ville the gardener in the horticultural department heis grafted a tomato on a potato, and succeeded in ripening fruit. The potatoes were sprouted in the spring and the top of a tomato seedling was cut diagonally to fit on the potato stem, which had been cut in the same way. The double plant was grown in a pot. The fruit did not seem to be in any way affected by the 38 Reed's Garden Guide change in blood. When cut and served it could not be told from true fruit. This experiment is practical in that there may be a chance to get potato tubers with tomato foliage, which would be resistant to blight and the Colorado potato beetle. Certain gardeners in New York City are working on this prob- lem and through a series of experiments hope to bring it ^out. "Theodore H. Townsend. "R. N.-Y. — Tliese grafts of tomato on potato are not un- common, and of course they have no commercial value. The work is often done at the agricultural college as interesting work for students. Some years ago we saw at a county fair one of these plants, with potatoes b^low ground and tomatoes above. It was a marvel to visitors, and many examined d)e plant to make sure the potatoes were not tied on. Hie fdcer who exhibited it offered seeds at 25 cents each. IJe claimed that sijch seeds would produce these 'compound' plants, and that seeds front the tomatoes would produce more plants. He said it was a wonderful new discovery which 'would change the entire history of agriculture.^ He did a land agent business in those seeds. Of course it was a fraud. The plant was sim- ply grafted and die seeds could not possibly produce potatoes. With modern knowledge it would be impossible to work such a barefaced fraud among intelligent people." A HELPFUL GARDEN PLAN The following garden design is intended to help garden crop rotation, and if followed closely can be worked out exactly as per plot. The berry row will accommodate 15 currants, 15 goose- berries, 24 raspberries, and 100 strawberry plants. The hotbed and cold frame can be sown in parsley, lettuce, beans, carrots, etc., during the summer. Reed's Garden Guide Onions, followed by Celery Lettuce-Radishes, followed by Celery Parsnips, 2 rows Carrots, followed by Kale Beets, followed by Spinach Early Peas, followed by fall Cabbage Beans, followed by Peas Cauliflower Tomatoes Tomatoes Beans, followed by Turnips I . J : • ■ Ri' i i Egg Plant, Peppers and Lettuce 00 Flower Border Walk 2% Fprt Wide Cucumbers, followed by Turnips Early Potatoes, followed by fall Beans Squash or Muskmelon Beans, followed by late Cabbage Beans, followed by late Cabbage Sweet Com Sweet Com Salsify Potatoes Potatoes Late Beets and Beans Two rows Sweet Potatoes SO Ffiet 39 20 Feet n 2. n n a 1 2 > 2 1 t o CO pa $ ts P 3 a h-l s- ? 00 s CI' f f 5? 1 ^ 1 tr n 40 Reed's Garden Guide The plot is 80 feet by 50 feet, with a 2^-foot walk through the center and an 18-inch walk lengthwise along the cold frame, hotbed and ^rhubarb bed. There are 24 rows in the garden, which will grow over twenty distinct varieties of vegetables, and still have a border for summer flowers, which should have a place in every garden. A FEW WORDS PERTAINING TO GARDENING AND THEIR DEFINITIONS ADHESIVE Sticky. ANNUAL .Coming every year. APHIS A family of small plant lice. BIENNIAL Lasting two years. BLANCH To whiten, to grow white. BROADCAST Scatter or sow abroad by the hand. BULB An onion-like root. CALYX .The outer covering or cup of a flower. CALLUS A, hard or thickened place of the bark of a plant. CAMBIUM Soft tissue from which new wood and bark originates. COMPOUND To mix or combine. CROWN The top of a plant root system. Head of a plant. CULTIVATE To till; to prepare for crops. Reed's Gabden Guide 41 DIBBLE A pointed tool used for setting plants. DRILL To sow seed, etc., in rows. FALLOW. Land ploughed and not sown. PARINACEOUS Ground grain: starch: pollen of plants. FRONDS A leaf-like organ in which the functions of stem and leaf are combined, as in ferns. FUNGICIDE A solution to repel fungus growth on plants. GERMINATE Spring from a germ, to begin to grow. GRAFT Inserting a scion or cutting into a tree or plant. HELLEBORE A yellowish-brown powder having consid- ersible insecticidial value. HERBACEOUS Pertaining to herbs. HYBRIDS An animal or plant produced from two different species. HYDROMETER An instrument for measuring the density or specific gravity of liquids by flotation. INSECTICIDE A solution to repel plants infected with insects. LEGUME A pod as of the pea, bean, etc. LOAM A soil of clay, sand, and animal and vege- table matter. NODULE A rounded mass of irregular shape, as nod- ules on leguminous vines and plants. N02ZLE A projecting vent of anything. PERENNIAL A plant that lives more than two years. 42 Reed's Garden Guide PETAL A flower leaf. POLLEN fertilizing powder contained in antliers of flowers. PROPAGATE To reproduce by generation, or, in plants, by seeds, cutting, etc. RHIZOME An underground root-like stem, as in nymphaeaus. ROOTLET A little rpot. ROTATION A succession. SLUG—. A kind of snail destructive to plants. STAMEN .The fertilizing organ of flowers. SOD Earth filled with roots of grass. TILL To cultivate. TRELLIS..., A frame of lattice work for supporting plants, TUBER -A fleshy rounded stem or root. WEEVIL A small beetle, very destructive to grain. Reed's Garden Guide 43 PART TWO HOME DECORATION I have been asked many times by parties who move in a newly built home, this question. What should I plant to beau- tify my home? Everyone moving into a new unimproved home is always desirous of having a prettier place than their neighbors. This rivalry exists i^ every city and town in the country, and it is this, "trying to beat your neighbors" mpvement; that is respon- sible fpr the many beautiful homes in cities and tpwns all over the south as well as country homes. "Wherever we find treps, shrubs, flowers, and lawns, well arranged and neatly kept up, be it in park, estate or less pre- tentious home grounds, we see reflected a spirit of refinement which makes for good citizenship." One looks tp the retention of a rich, healthy green foliage as late as possible by means of certain oaks, beeches, elms wad golden and green conifers, while another employs the wonder- ful crimson and gold tints of the maples, gums, sumacs, etc., to construct the lovely pictures naturally peculiar to the season. A portion of the lawn which can be seen as a picture through the frame made by the outline of a certain window should be so planted that it will always be sure to present a delightful scene during the varied changes of winter, when one is necessarily kept indoors. Evergreens are desirable, in all ornamental planting as they retain their foliage through the wmter, adding a tone of warmth and verdure, and imparting a charm to the landscape 44 Reed's Gabden Guide that deciduous trees cannot supply. They should be judici- ously planted on small as well as large grounds. On the latter the larger kind can arrive at full development and should be planted at distances sufficient to allow natural and symmetrical growth without crowding. The arborviteas and rhetinsporas, on account of their small size, are most suitable for small lots, but nearly all species and varieties suitable for this section look well on small grounds. The results of planting evergreens depends largely upon the manner of planting them. One good way I have found to be most satisfactory and giving a pleasing effect on a lawn is to cluster five low growing evergreens in a circle in the center of which is set a larger sort like the Norway spruce (Picea Excelsia). A border of evergreens may be ajrranged around the house to hide the foundation. Deciduous shrubbery such as wygelia, deutzia, syringa, altheas, etc., can be planted between each evergreen to add color and tint to the dark green foliage in summer. Along fences, partly dead trees, old buildings, etc., nothing looks better than a few vines, among the most popular varie- ties being ampelopsis, quinquefolia, Virginia Creeper, am- pelopsis veitchei, Boston Ivy, Japanese clematis, wisteria chin- ensis, triunpet vine, large flowering clematis, Jackmanni. WHEN AND WHAT TO PLANT In the fall about the time the oak leaves are turning from gieen to yellow, scarlet and brown is the best time to plan and think out your requirements for your yard and fruit garden. Many people neglect this very important duty of placing their orders with nurserymen, until late in the fall or spring, which results in many failures. Your trees may only be whips or they may be well branched heads, but remember that they will grow larger and spread Keed's Garden Guide 45 out, so don't plant too close to other trees and vines. Remem- ber that your small tree to-day will be a big tree to-morrow. Plant your deciduous trees such as maple, oaks, elms, etc., at least thirty feet apart, so that they will develop into nice specimens, and become ornamental as well as useful. The advantages resulting from a careful planting of ever- greens are many and no grounds seem complete without them. They retain their beauty through the summer's heat and win- ter's cold, and I recommend more evergreens be planted. All nurserymen send evergreens balled and burlapped when so ordered, which insures their good growth and devel- opment. If your evergreens arrive before you are ready to plant them do not unpack them unless it should be impossible to plant under two weeks; then they should be carefully un- packed and with balls of earth wrapped in burlap, carefully transferred to a shallow trench and a little dirt thrown to the roots. Many varieties of evergreens do well in this section of Vir- ginia and many do not. In my fourteen years experience in this section of Virginia I have found the following varieties adapted to this climate: American arborvitea, (thuya occidentalis) . American arborvitea, (thuya Occidentalis Compacta). American arborvitea, (thuya occidentalis lutea). Chinese arbordtea, (biota orien talis). Chinese arborvitea, (biota aurea). Rhetinspora plumosa. Rhetinspora plumosa (aurea). Colorado blue spruce. Koster blue spruce. Norway spruce. Nordman's Fir. Irish Juniper. Boxwood. 46 Heed's Garden Guide Nearly all the Cedars (Cedurs) do well here, but on ac- count of cedar rust on apples and other fruit, it is not advisable to plant this evergreen. The American arborviteas can be purchased in globe or pyramidal form or in bushy shapes. They are strong growers. ARRIVAL OF TREES Shade and Fruit Trees When trees arrive and you have your holes ready and weather is favorable, unpack and plant immediately, other- wies keep in box or bale, and if freezing weather, they should be left in package and protected from frost. If it is impossi- ble to plant under 30 days they should be "healed in" a trench, either set up straight or leaning and plenty of dirt put to the roots. In dry weather they should be watered to keep roots from drying out. Evergreens Evergreens should arrive balled and burlapped, which means that they are dug with a ball of earth around the foots, and wrapped in a piece of burlap, which insures their gfowth and development. Unpack carefully, and see that the sacks do not loose the soil around the roots. Set dp in upright position and if dry, water copidusly at roots. A twd fdot evefgfeen properly balled will weigh from 80 to 125 lbs. If an ever- green is badly bent on unpacking, set up and drive a few stakes around it, and tie tree to stakes Until straight After a few hours, the tree will be straight again. Digging Holes If you dig holes with a spade, be sure your hdles are 3 times larger in circumference than the roots of your tree, and Eeed's Garden Guide 47 twice as deep as you intend to plant the ttee. Throw the top soil to one side and the sub soil on another pile. If you are not ready to set your trees for several days, or weeks, fill holes up again using a good compost, such as leaf mold, bone meal, leaves or grass clippings, etc. Mix thoroughly and fill up holes. Do not use the pile of top soil until you set your tree, then apply to roots at bottom of hole. After redigging the holes be sure to loosen up bottom of holes with a bar to a depth of from 4 to 8 inches. Digging Holes With Dynamite A third of a stick of thirty per cent dynamite is sufficient for blasting a hole for a young tree. Dynamite is regarded as especially desirable only in soils underlaid with an impervious hardpan or those in which theit compactness makes digging slow and difficut. The dynamite should be used only when the ground is dry. Wheto the soil ia filled with watear the explosion of the dyitamite forma a jug- shaped cavity about the size of a banriel, in which soil is loose. When the tree is planted the settling of the loosfe soil allows the trees to drop much deeper than ^ey should be set. Dynamite loosrais the soil. Waking hundreds of fissittea and crevasses in the hajd-pan, which brings up the grasses, and allows water to gather in the cavity so that the little rootlets of your tree can slowly feel their way to the basin find get a "drink" in dry weather. Dynamite for orchard and garden see page 63. SETTING TREES Do not set or plant trees when the ground is wet. Wait until ground is in "order," as you would when planting Corn. Sei tree in hole straight. Firm the dirt around the roots with 48 Reed's Garden Guide top soil using good compost well mixed with the soil. Set trees about an inch deeper than they were in the nursery. Da not mound up around tree, but rather leave a circular depres- sion about 18 inches from tree to catch water to feed the roots. Do not "tamp" or firm the soil on top too heavy, but only at the roots. If soil is too heavily firmed on top the water cannot soak in. Evergreens and evergreen shrubs, such as Rhododen- drons, Azalea, Mahonia, Hollits, etc., should not have any stable manure applied when setting, but rather leaf mold, grass^ clippings or decayed straw, etc. Trees that are set in yards or where there is turf, the turf should be thrown in the bottom of hole. Trees that are balled and burlapped, as evergreens, the burlapping should be loosened only after tree is set in the holey care being taken that the ball of earth is not separated from the root system. After burlap is unfastened from the bally push the burlap down to the bottom of the hole and under the plant. If the ball of earth around the tree is firm enough to- permit the sacking to be removed without interfering with the ball, the sack can be removed entirely. After holes are about half filled up with soil, pour a bucket of water to each hole, allowing a few minutes to settle and then apply the dry dirt on top. This will prevent the earth from baking or crusting on top or surface around tree. CULTIVATING AND MULCHING TREES ALL trees must be thoroughly cultivated to insure goods growth, the full value which is not generally appreciated. One of the best ways of improving the condition of the soil around trees is to mulch them thoroughly with a good layer of leaves, straw or decayed vegetable matter in the fall and allow it to remain all winter and working it into the soil in the spring. Reed's Garden Gxhde 49 Keeping the soil around the trees free from weed and grass is very imp/ortant. Shallow cultivation with a garden hoe in dry weather will not only help to keep weeds down, but also conserve moisture. WATERING TREES Trees should not be watered during the hot part of the day, but rather late in the evening or at night. A few buckets of water applied on the surface in dry weather will do little or no good, but on the other hand if the soil around the base of the tree is thoroughly soaked for a space of from 3 to 6 feet around the tree, every 5 or 6 days, trees will not suffer from drought. Pieces of 4 inch drain tiling, or 2 inch iron pipe from 8 to 18 inches in length set on the upper side of a tree at an an- gle of 45 degrees set downwards and leaning from the tree, makes watering very simple. In dry times simply pour or allow the hose to run into pipes. If pipes stop up at bottom a 3 foot iron bar is used to unstop the drain tubes. This method prevents soil from har- dening and yet supplies water to the roots. TREE GUARDS There are many guards on the market for protecting trees. These guards are all good, but rather expensive, if you have a lot of trees. For your yard trees such as Maples, Elms, Lindens, Plane, Oaks, etc., that require a guard to keep them from swaying to and fro with the wind there is nothing better than a good stake. Stake should be driven in the ground about 8 inches from tree, the tree should be fastened to the stake by heavy piece burlap, or a piece of rubber garden hose. If a guard is desired to 50 Reed's Garden Guide protect tree from horse bites or other injury, another stake can be driven into ground, and a piece of poultry wire of 1 inch mesh can be fastened around stakes. SHADE TREE PRUNING Three things are absolutely necessary to properly prune a shade tree, first, a good pruning saw; second, paint and brush; third, the most important of all, good sound judgment. "Have you ever noticed the dead stubs on your shade trees? This is the direct result of last year's improper pruning. Never cut a limb off several feet or even inches above a bad spur cr fork, the sun will make a crack, the rain will settle in it and next year the stub will die down to the union or fork. Suppose you then cut off the stub down to the live wood, you will find that it has decayed the limb and unless you dig out the decayed wood, and till the cavity with cement, you have a hollow tree that may blow down at any time. "In amputating large limbs always saw under the limb first, to keep from splitting; saw close to the trunk, remove all slivers and paint around the wound with a good tree paint. Never leave a stub or protruding limb; -they give an unsightly appearance to the trunk, that rarely heals over. Always make a slanting cut. Horizontal cuts are difficult to protect against decay, as water is likely to settle on the surface. Occasionally there is necessity of thinning out crown branches for the sake of giving better proportion to the crown and for some other purposes. Before pruning to relieve the encroachment of one tree on another the future and permanent value of the trees concerned should be most carefully con- sidfcred. Not infrequently the natural beauty of a long lived tree has been destroyed by senseless cutting, in order to pre- serve intact some worthless short lived tree. Short lived and inferior trees such as the Carolina poplar, silver maples, etc., Reed's Garden Guide 51 should always be sacrificed to preserve in good form such long- lived trees as the oaks, sugar maples, beeches, lindens, etc. Pruning the Grape Vines Any day during the winter is a good time to prune your grape vines, just so the wood is not frozen. Really the best time to prune the vines is after the sap has gone down and the wood has ripened in the fall. The grape vine bears its fruit in shoots or spurs of the present year, produced from eyes on the previous year's wood, so it is necessary to keep up a supply of young wood in order to have fruit. Remember the habit of the vine is to make wood, to climb as high as possible and to have its greatest vigor at its extremities, hence the grapes get too much shade, get choked and produce an inferior quality of fruit. Cut back to two buds. ewly set 2-year Apple ready to be pruned Same Apple tree Newly set Peach ready Same Peach pruned pruned to be pruned Prune 1-yr. Apple same way Stone Fruits In pruning stone fruits, such as cherries, plums, peaches, etc., it should be borne in mind that if the pruning is too severe the sap does not get sufficient vent. It then accumulates in masses and bursts the bark. Leave enough active buds to absorb the sap. 52 Reed's Garden Guide Pruning Apple Trees, Pears, Etc. In pruning apple, pear, quince, and other fruits the fol- lowing three articles should be observed closely.. I. Why bearing apple trees should be pruned. To pro- duce larger and better fruit; to promote vigor; to regulate the amount of simlight and air that penetrate to the center of the tree; to facilitate tillage operations and to aid in thinning, spraying and picking the fruit. II. How to prune bearing apple trees. Light annual prun- ing should be practiced. Prune to some ideal that you have in mind. Remove dead and diseased wood. Shorten leaders if they are growing too high or are long and slender without sufficient lateral growth. Shorten or remove limbs that drag on the ground. Cut out branches which grow from the outer limbs toward the center of the tree. In no case should limbs grow across each other. Train water sprouts to fill in open spaces. Cut them back so they produce lateral growth. When water sprouts are intended to replace fruit-bearing wood that has been removed from the tree they should be cut back an- nually to not more than three buds to each sprout. All space in the tree should be filled with strong wood, but two branches should not be left for the same space. Remove all sprouts from the base of the tree. III. Precaution. Do not over-prune a tree that has been neglected for a number of years. Too drastic pruning may destroy the fruiting habit of the tree. Instead of heavy prun- ing, take two or three years to bring the trees into the proper shape. A weak tree will withstand heavier pruning without interfering with bearing than a vigorous one. Do not strip small limbs and fruit spurs from the lower parts of the main branches. Paint all wounds one inch or over in diameter with thick white lead paint. Reed's Garden Guide 53 Pruning Deciduous Siirubs The best time to prune blooming hardy shrubs, is soon after their blooming period has passed. Shrubs which bloom in the spring develop their flowers from buds formed during the previous summer. By pruning immediately after the blooms have dropped, the shoots pro- duced will have the balance of the season to develop new shoots, whereon will bring next year's blossoms. Prune shrubs vigorously, but always allow enough wood to produce good shoots for next season. Cut close to spurs, or buds. Pruning Raspberry and Blackberry Remove all old canes and unnecessary shoots from the crown or base of each plant and from between the rows. Old canes should be cut off as soon as the fruiting time is passed. The tops of the canes are cut back to reach the height favored by the grower. TRANSPLANTING TREES Large shade or fruit trees should be transplanted only when they are dormant. If it is desired to transplant a tree that is over 4 inches in diameter, care should be exercised to injure as few roots as possible. If possible, cut back the top of the tree to equalize the root system. The broken, bruised tree roots, so often twisted into holes, far too small for them, seldom put forth new growth, but more often rot back to the point where the root branches. If the roots of the tree to be transplanted are cut off smoothly with a sharp knife a new growth of rootlets start at 54 Reed's Garden Guide once and form a continuous band of rootlets around the end of each root so prepared. If these rootlets are well surrounded with good soil and supplied with moisture they are soon at work supplying food and moisture to trunk, branch, twig, and leaf. Be sure not to neglect the most important part of trans- planting, securely staking and guying the tree to heavy stakes or posts, so that it can not be shaken by the wind until its roots become strong enough to anchor themselves fast and securely. NUT TREES The constant and growing demand for nuts, and the im- mense quantities of them yearly imported to meet it have given a great impetus to the planting of nut-bearing trees. No other food has shown such an astounding record for increase of de- mand, year after year. So palatable and wholesome are the nut kernals that they should become a staple article of food here as in Europe. The returns from established nut-bearing orchards, as well as numerous experiments, show plainly how successful nut culture may be made in America. Most farms contain land that would pay better in nut-bearing trees than in anything else, the nuts in many cases paying better than farm crops. Nursery production of these hardy, acclimated varieties of nut trees is attended by more or less difficulty and greater cost, but they relieve the planter of all anxiety. He may leave them out in the rain and frost, almost forgetting them, in fact, and there he will find them in a few years, each tree yielding nuts that will bring a larger dividend than a thousand dollars in the bank. For the home-garden the nut tree supplies shade and food, and adds value to the property as few other trees do. It seldom pays to plant seedlings. Reed's Garden Guide 55 BUTTERNUTS This tree is valued for its tropical appearance and its beau- tiful wood, as well as for its nuts. Produces large, handsome, elongated nuts with a rich sweet, oily kernel of marked, though most delicate flavor. Nuts very nutritious. Cultivation in- creases the size of the nuts, and the tree is a rapid grower yielding large crops in a few years. The increasing market for this valuable nut makes it a good investment. Almonds Hard-Shell. The tree is very showy when in bloom. The kernels of the nut are large, plump, and sweet; hardy and very easy to grow. The shell cracks when the fruit ripens. Soft, or Paper-Shell. The almond of commerce. Nuts are highly flavored and of better quality than the Hard-Shell. Not hardy north of Philadelphia. The kernels are most sweet and tender. A profitable variety to plant. Walnuts Japan. Good producer; nuts sweet and somewhat resem- bling a butter nut. Tree bears young and regularly. Persluv. English Walnut. Tree of lofty growth and pro- duces large, thin-shelled, delicious nuts. American. Valuable for producing a superior wood and the large oily nuts are produced in heavy crops. Trees grow fast. Nuts sell at best prices. Filberts English. Of easiest culture, growing 6 to 8 feet high, en- tirely hardy, and one of the most profitable and satisfactory nuts to grow, succeeding on almost all soils, bearing early and 56 Beed's Garden GtUide abundantly; nuts nearly round, rich and of excellent flavor, admired for the dessert. Kentish Cob. One of the best; large size, oblong, of ex^ cellent quality. Pecans Each year's progress in the growing of budded or grafted Pecans throughout the cotton belt section of the South is prov- ing more conclusively that Pecan growing is sure and profit- able. As the industry progresses, new lights and new facts are being brought out both as to varieties, yield, methods of planting, and cultivation. From 2 to 4 pounds per tree, 6 years from planting, with a gradual average increase up to 25 to 30 pounds in the tenth year is a fair average of the production of the well-tended groves throughout the South. Many trees are yielding far in excess of this, but believe the foregoing to be a fair average. Pecan growing as an industry has become thoroughly estab- lished. The great future of the industry, as we see it, lies in the farmer and fruit grower who plants from a few trees around his home, farm buildings, along his avenues and roadsides, up to five or ten acres. Trees planted under these conditions will be given good care and will unquestionably yield the owner more liberal revenue in the course of eight or ten years than any other purpose to which he can put the ground and as we are recommending the planting 50 to 60 feet apart, there is opportunity to use the space between the trees for farm crops until the Pecans are in profitable bearing. Some of the best varieties to plant in this section are as follows : Alley — ^Medium size, good quality. Delmas — ^A large nut of good quality. Eeed's Garden Guide 57 Mantura — A large, well-filled nut, very thin, good flavor. Originated in Surry Co., Va. Schley — One of the best. Thin shell. Van Deman — Large nuts. Good bearer. STREET TREES I can't possibly close this chapter without saying a few words on this important subject. It is surprising to know of the amount of bad taste used in selecting trees for our city streets, as well as on country roads. First, trees on city streets and avenues, should be set in straight rows, parallel with the street and uniformally spaced. Second, trees should be of sufficient caliper to give an almost immediate effect. Third, good judgment should be used in selecting the variety best suited for street tree planting. The following varieties are best adapted to our streets and avenues of our cities of this section: Norway Maple, (acer plantanoides) . Pin Oak, (Quercus palustris). Schwedleri Maple. American Elm, (Ulmus Americana). Oriental Plane, (Platanus sycamore). European Linden, (Tillia Am.). The Norwat Maples I consider the best for street planting. First, they are not so much effected by gasses, dust, etc.; second, they are immune to the ravages of San Jose Scale, which is doing so much damage in the south; third, they make beautiful round or dome shaped heads, attaining a height of 25 to 30 feet; fourth, they have a very rich dark green foliage, which clings to the branches in the fall, sometimes when all other trees are bare. The Pin Oak or Swamp Oak, is considered by many City Foresters and authorities as the best tree for street planting. 58 Reed's Garden Guide Its growth is slower than the maples. The toothed leaves, and globular acorns, together with its almost perfect pyramidal shape make it a very desirable tree for streets and avenues, as well as country roads and boulevards. The Schwedleri Maple, (Acer Schwedleri) is like the Norway Maple, except that it changes color several times dur- ing the growing season. The leaves are sometime variegated with brown and purple, and again dark green or red, turning a bright yellow in the fall. The American Elm — a good, well balanced street tree, stately in appearance. The Elm Flea Beetle, which is very destructive on Elms, is the American Elm's worst enemy, and unless properly sprayed each year, the Elms will not thrive. The Oriental Plane is also a good tree for streets. It is recognized by many as one of the best fast growing trees on the list. It has, however, one bad habit, that of the branches growing downward, which is objectionable to passersby where set close to sidewalks. The Plane bears pruning nicely, and if lower limbs are kept pruned off, it becomes a very desirable tree, and presents a very ornamental appearance on broad European Linden European Linden. The American Linden or Basswood. This stately tree is very much in favor for planting on broad parking spaces where it can develop into a stately monarch. It attains a height of from 70 to 90 feet. The leaves are heart- shaped and green on both sides. Street trees should be planted in straight rows. If a city block is being set to maples the entire street or avenue should be set with maples of the same variety. They should be cared for annually and only by experts. Reed's Garden Guide 59 PART THREE ROOTING PRIVET Hedge clippings may easily be rooted if cut in 12 inch lengths in the spring. In rooting cuttings from California Privet and Amor River Privet, cut the pieces in about 12 inch lengths, stripping the bottom leaves off the stem and sticking them in a trench about an inch apart. The cuttings should be placed in the soil to third bud and set in a leaning fashion. The soil should be firmed around the cuttings and a trench a few inches deep cut on each side of row containing cuttings to gather water. In dry times the soil should be watered, and at no time should the soil become very dry. Keep weeds from propagating row, and cultivate lightly. By Autumn you can transplant the rooted cuttings to a permanent location. Boxwood and Euonymous can be propagated the same way. Government Whitewash A whitewash that is almost as serviceable and cheaper than paint for wood, brick or stone, has been used by the United States government for whitewashing lighthouses. It also has been used to embellish the east end of the White House. It is made as follows: Slake half a bushel of lime with boiling water, cover during the process to keep in steam. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve or strainer, and add to it a peck of salt, previously dis- 60 Reed's Gaeden Guide solved in warm water, three pounds of ground rice boiled to a thin paste and stirred in while hot, half a pound of Spanish whiting and one pound of clear glue, previously dissolved by soaking in cold water and then hanging in a small pot hung in a larger one filled with water. Add five gallons of hot water to the mixture, stir well, and let stand a few days, covered from dirt. It should be applied hot, for which purpose it should be kept in a kettle or portable furnace. By the addition of col- oring matter, various shades of color can be obtained. Yellow ochre added to the whitewash gives a cream color; lampblack or ivory black produces a pearl or lead tint; four pounds of umber to one pound of Indian red and one pound of lamp- black, makes fawn ; and four pounds of umber and two pounds of lampblack produces common stone color. Crafting Wax Resin — 2 lbs. Beeswax — 1 lb. Tallow — (rendered) i^ lb. Melt all ingredients together, but don't let boil. Pour the hot liquid into a pail of cold water. With greased hands flatten the mass beneath the water. Allow it to get cold and tough but not brittle. Remove from the water and pull until a fine grain is produced. An experienced tree-grafter in Craig Co., Va., has used this formula for years, and claims it the best grafting wax made. Tree Paint White Lead — 1 lb. Linseed Oil — (enough to make a thick paint). Lampblack — 1 oz. Mix to a consistency of paint only thicker. Apply to wounds with a brush, rubbing well into the grain. Eeed's Garden Guide 61 Sterilizing Cavities of Trees Farmer's Bulletin number 1178, issued by United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C, quotes the fol- lowing on sterilizing cavities: After decayed and diseased matter has been completely ex- cavated and the edges of the sapwood and bark adjoining the cambium shellacked, the remainder of the cavity also must be sterilized. As already stated, creosote appears to be one of the best generally known preparations to use. Every exposed part of the wood and bark must be sterilized, and over this a heavy coating of tar, hot asphalt, or some other suitable waterproof covering applied. This completes all the essential operations in repairing and treating old decayed spots or freshly made injuries. Filling a cavity is of much less importance. Oftentimes a cavity is safer and better if left imfilled; it certainly is if cement is used and the work is done carelessly or ignorantly. Open Cavities A tree cavity which has been excavated, sterilized and water- proofed in the manner just described is in condition to be left, with occasional inspection, in comparative safety for years. Cavities treated in this way probably are safer than most tinned or cemented cavities of the ordinary sort, and, furthermore, they have the advantage of permitting easy inspection from time to time. The new growth of wood and bark along the margins will gradually form an inwardly rolled edge if there is no filling, sheet metal, or artificial ledge to force it across the cavity. The cavity must be watched from year to year, and any tendency of the waterproof coating to crack, peel, or blister should immediately be counteracted by repainting. This is an 62 Reed's Garden Guide important point, which must not be neglected. It is better and safer to repaint every year (or at least two years) until healed over, without waiting for defects to appear. ERADICATING WILD ONIONS FROM LAWN, FIELD AND GARDEN Wild onion or field garlic is an abominable weed, which spreads by means of aerial bublets and secondary bulbs under ground. It is a serious pest in grain fields, the aerial bulblets being about the same size and weight as a grain of wheat, so that it is impossible to clean them out at harvest time. There is heavy loss from this weed in the wheat fields of Virginia, Maryland and Tennessee, and rye growers in the Eastern States are also affected by it. The garlic "kernels" not only taint the flour, but also cause a sticky coating on the rollers, and in stone-grinding, taint the buhr-stones themselves. In a garden plot hand-pulling at flowering time may be practiced, but the ground must be soft and care taken to leave no "cloves" to start a new plant. The most effective method is to squirt a few drops of crude carbolic acid on each tuft, using a machine oil can to apply it. This is the best way to eradicate the plant in lawns. Late fall plowing, that will bring the bulbs to the surface, followed by early spring cultivation and a hoed crop, is very helpful, but one cannot exterminate the weed in a single season. In infected pastures, salting the clumps will induce sheep to eat them off, but either milk or meat is tainted by garlic. If carbolic acid is used in pastures, stock must be kept from the fields until rain has washed the poison into the soil. I have eradicated onions successfully on lawn by using a "spud" made out of a piece of buggy spring about 12 inches long and, having the blacksmith split the end and making a fork, sharpening both prongs. Dig out the clumps and put in Reed's Garden Guide 63 a wheel-barrow or sack, saturate with kerosene oil and burn. Be sure the entire clump is removed. The tiny bulblets, if not burned, will become separated from the clump and blow from lawn to garden and garden to lawn as soon as they are dry. Dandelion, dock, plantain and other weeds should be taken out the same way. DYNAMITING FOR ORCHARD AND GARDEN Every farmer in the country appreciates the value of labor- saving devices, because it reduces the cost of production. Not so many years ago the farm was the last place to find stored away in some seldom-used out-building, a case of dynamite, fuse and caps. This is now found on nearly every up-to-date farm, especially fruit farms, nor do we find it only on the farm, but we also see it used along our streets, in front and back yards with perfect safety. Dynamite is a high explosive. It is dangerous, when one does not observe the twenty-five or more "don'ts" that come with each case you buy. If you have a fairly old tree, that does not seem to be grow- ing, yet it is free from scale and borers, the chances are that the roots have absorbed all the moisture they can get, and are cramped and twisted on top of the hard-pan. If you will drill a hole some six or eight feet from the tree and driven downwards, towards the tree, on a dip of about 45 degrees and use a stick of agricultural dynamite (not 60 per cent) you will notice a marked improvement on your tree's growth this coming season. Be sure your shot is directly under the tree, and should be at least four feet deep below the roots. Try about six sticks cut in half or twelve shots in your garden this spring, where you are going to raise potatoes, put them twelve feet apart and note the difference in your crop. 64 Reed's Garden Guide DONTS ABOUT DYNAMITE Don't smoke while using dynamite caps. Fuse burns from 2 to 3 feet per minute, so don't worry, or get in a hurry. If you've primed your cartridge right, used good fuse, it will go o£f all right. Don't use a bar or anything that has metal on it to tamp your holes. Use a wooden tamping stick. Don't cut the fuse short to save time. It is dangerous economy. Don't investigate the dynamite cap or detonater with a nail or ship instrument. Observe these don'ts and you won't take a premature aerial ascension. Planting trees with dynamite see page 71. Eeed's Garden Guide 65 MISS VIRGINIA PIPPIN Says Mr. BALDWIN of New York, I've got the greatest apple known. RAMBO says BLACK BEN'S a better sort. Brings more money, than all the BALDWINS grown. Of course when it comes to WEALTHY, Or Mrs. GOLDEN with her GRIMES, It makes KING feel so healthy, That we eat SUDLEY and BLENHEINS. Now in Pennsylvania, where the YORKS are grown. The IMPERIAL as everybody knows. Is as DELICIOUS as the old GLADSTONE, And the FALLOWATER near the TULLEPEHAUKEN flows. Now comes JOHNATHAN of Missouri state. Who is PROFESSOR in that clime. And they ship them by the crate As well as GRAVENSTEIN. In Virginia there's a PIPPIN of ALBEMARLE, Says the MAIDEN'S BLUSH, I love thee much. SEEK-NO-FURTHER, and let's not quarrel, STAY-MAN, for there's NON-SUCH, I'm a real VIRGINIA LADY, A POUND SWEET and BEAUTY maybe. So you WINESAP watch your wig. Or I'll bend you with my M. B. TWIG. 66 Bsiip's GAieDBsr (Iuids PART FOtJR *FRUITS FOR THE SOUTH So little attention is given to the proper planting and cul- tivation of fruit trees that to a beginner, or even to those of some experience, the business often seems discouraging. There is positively no excuse for all the failures in fruit-growing, except pure neglect, a failure to understand die requirements of fruit trees, whether in the home-garden or in the orchard. Thousands of grcbardg go to waste annually by neglect. Every person owning a home can have a healthy, thrifty orchard, if he will follow the instructions given herewith. We all know that fine fruit is produced. You can produce it if you will give the matter a small part of your time and attention. It is well known that fruit-growing is usually much more profitable, as well as much easier, than general fanning; re- turns of $500 or more per acre from crops of apples or peaches are not at all exceptional. All over the South there is an in* creasing interest in fruit-growing, brought about by the high prices that first-class frujt now command. The Govemmeni pomologist tells us that there will always be a demand for this class of fruit, and from the large cities comes a constant call for "more." It has been proved that fruit-growing is just as practicable in the South as elsewh@i?e, and that this section has a number of notable advantages that will carry it to the top of commercial fruit-growing regions of the country. In order that you may clearly understand that the produc* tion of apples, peaches, pears, pltmis, cherries, and many other *Published by permiBsion of the J. Van. Lindley Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C. Fruits for the South is so well written that I con- sider it of high value to this book. — The Author. Reed's QAitDEN Qvma 67 fruits in the South long ago paaaed the experimental stage, we need only refer to one or two incidents. In November, 1910, there was held at Council Bluffs, Iowa, one of the most impor- tant horticultural exhibits ever given. Entries of fruit were made from every section of the country, including the western states with strong reputations for high-class fruit. But the southern states were there, too, with a liberal display of fruits and nuts, and when prizes were awarded, the southern states represented received ten out of a total of twenty special prizes in exhibits open to all. The leading premium was a Silver Trophy, awarded to North Carolina fruits as sweepstakes on the best display of fruit in the United States. In addition, there were a number of "plate displays" of such fruits as apples, peaches, and grapes, on which the southern states took a number of prizes; North Carolina alone took six trophy cups and several ribbon prizes. This incident, and the fact that many commercial orchards are already in profitable bearing throughout the South, particularly those planted to apples, pears, and peaches, prove the adaptability of that sec- tion to fruit-culture on a large and profitable scale Prompt railroad facilities bring all the large cities of the East — ^Washington, Baltimore, Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, New York, and Boston— within easy reach of the southern fruit- grower, most of them comparatively only a few hours distant. This means that his fruit will be b^ter than that grown farther away, because it can ripen on the tree instead of having to be gathered half -green; it means, too, that such perishable fruits as peaches, grapes, cherries, and strawberries, which bring high prices and are very profitable, can be grown in the South and easily shipped so as to arrive at northern markets in good condition and at much less expense. Southern fruitmen can score a distinct advantage over the growers of other sections by producing fruits which generally 68 Reed's Gabden Gxjide do not succeed north of the Mason and Dixon Line. Persim- mons, figs, nectarines, etc., pecans, and Japanese walnuts, bring high prices; at the same time, they are easily grown in the South, where great quantities are now being raised. Every home should raise these fruits and nuts for family use, and to sell. FIVE IMPORTANT REASONS WHY WE SHOULD PLANT FRUIT TREES First. — The increase in the value of the farm. A well-kept orchard will make your place more valuable in many ways. Who would not pay a great deal more for a farm with a large, healthy orchard than for one exactly like it, without the or- chard? Second. — It pays to have fruit for the sake of our health. Many troublesome diseases are unknown to the free users of a largely vegetable diet. Settlers in a new country improve in health as their orchards begin to bear freely. Third. — ^A healthy growth of trees and evergreens to the windward of a home will break the cold winds in winter and afford shade and pleasure in summer. Fourth. — It pays from the profits secured by selling your surplus fb' the different towns in your vicinity. Inhabitants of towns and villages become ready buyers of fancy fruit and pay good prices for it. Often when you live within marketing dis- tance of a good town you can make more money from your orchard than from any other crop you can grow. Some farmers realize from $300 to $500 from just a few acres planted in strawberries, peaches, pears, plums, apples, etc. Many a farm- er with four or five acres in apples, peaches, pears, and plums realizes more profit from it in money, besides the pleasure of having the fruit, than from the balance of the farm. It is easy to have fruit every month in the year. Commence in the spring Reed's Garden Guide 69 with currants and berries of various sorts — just a few of each. Then come the different varieties of apples, peaches, pears, plums, and other fruits, ripening in succession from May until frost. In the meantime we can, by planting nice preserving and canning fruit — such as the Kieffer pear and other things — preserve and can fruit enough to last through the winter, be- sides the apples which can be kept late in the fall and some- times all winter. Then plant a few nut trees — pecans, walnuts, etc. They are enormous bearers and their fruits find ready sale. Fifth. — ^Last, but not least, it will help to keep the farmer's son at home by making home attractive. There are but few boys that do not like fruit, and by having this, and by planting shade and ornamental trees, vines, roses, etc., the home is given a pleasant aspect that will go a long way toward keeping the children satisfied. Give them a few trees of their own, for pleasure and profit, and you will be well repaid. WHAT FRUITS SHALL WE PLANT? For a family orchard we mention the following things which you might plant with profit: 17 Apples. 300 Asparagus. 17 Peaches. 24 Raspberries. 8 Plums. 12 Blackberries or Dewberries. 6 Pears. 24 Grapes. 2 Cherries, or Nuts. 22 Currants or Gooseberries. 200 Strawberries. SELECTING A PLACE FOR AN ORCHARD It is a wrong idea to plant fruit trees on poor land if you expect good fruit. If you plant on poor land, you must ferti- lize or manure with something to feed the trees, as you do com, cotton, or any other crop. Trees must have good soil and at- 70 Reed's Garden Guide tention. An orchard deserves the best land you have. When- ever possible, an orchard should have a northern or north- western exposure and be planted on well-elevated placesi. PLANT YOUNG, THRIFTY TREES FOR BEST RESULTS One of the biggest mistakes with some is that they want large, overgrown trees to plant. A tree one or two years old, that has been well grown by a reliable nurseryman, will make a better tree in the long run, fruiting in a fewer number of years, making a healthier tree, thereby longer lived, than a tree that is larger and older when bought and transplanted. Get them with good roots. When planting, put down in a book just where each variety can be found, state the row it is in and number from a givea end. HOW TO CARE FOR TREES BEFORE PLANTING If you cannot plant immediately, "heel" them in the ground in the garden or some convenient place until you are ready to plant. Heeling-in might be termed temporary planting, to pre- serve the roots imtil you are ready to plant. One of the sim- plest ways to heel-in trees is to dig a trench about 2 feet wide and about ly^ feet deep, open the bunch of trees and spread them thinly in the trench, then fill in with loose earth to about 6 inches above the point they grew in the nursery. Always trample the soil with the feet so that it will be in close contact with every root. The same principle is to be observed in heel- ing-in small plants. Then when you are ready to plant, the trees will be in good condition. When they are properly heeled-in, they will keep in good condition for several weeks. In planting an orchard, let the ground be made mellow by repeated plowing. For a tree of moderate size, the hole should Reed's Garden Guide 71 be dug 3 feet in diameter and 12 to 20 inches deep. Blasting the holes with dynamite, if eonvenient, loosens the soil and is very beneficial to the trees. Turn over the soil several times. In every instance the hole must be large enough to admit all the roots easily without bending, and the roots should go in the hole as they grew in the nursery. They should be straight and not cramped and in masses. Shorten and pare smoothly with a knife any bruised or broken roots. Hold the tree upright while another person, making the soil fine, gradually distributes it among the roots. Shake the tree gently while the filling is going on. The main secret lies in carefully filling in the earth so that every root, and even the smallest fiber, may meet the soil; and to secure this, spread out the small roots and fill in the earth around every one. When the hole is two-thirds full, pour in a pail or two oi water. This will settle the soil and fill up vacancies that remain. Wait until the water has been absorbed by the soil and then fill up the hole; do not trample, but fill loosely with fine soil. The moist earth, being covered by the loose surface soil, will retain its humidity for a long time. Indeed, we rarely ever find it necessary to water again after planting in this way, and a little muck or litter placed around the tree upon the newly moved soil will render it quite unnecessary. Frequent surface watering is highly injurious, as it causes the top of the soil to bake and prevent the access of air, which in a certain degree is absolutely necessary. Avoid the prevalent error of planting trees too deep. They should not be planted more than 1 inch deeper than they stood before. (See illustrations.) Set too high Set too low Roots badly bunched Set properly 72 Heed's Garden Guide If your soil is positively bad, remove it from the hole and substitute a cartload or two of good garden mold. Do not for- get that trees must have food. Three times the common growth may be realized by preparing holes 6 feet in diameter and twice the usual depth, enriching and improving the soil by the plen- tiful addition of good compost, well rotted and thoroughly mixed with the soil. In most cases it will be best to plant in good soil and use the manure as a mulch. Young trees cannot be expected to thrive well in sod land. When a young orchard must be kept in grass, a circle should be kept dug around each tree. But cultivation of the land will cause the trees to advance more rapidly in five years than they will in ten when it is allowed to remain in grass. Few kinds of trees or plants — none in the fruit class — suc- ceed in wet land. A soil too wet for any crop is too wet for trees. This may be kndwn if water stands in the furrows for a week or more after the frost has left the earth or after a rain. If you wish to plant such land, drain it first. Some land is naturally underdrained; some is sufficiently undulating to let the surface-water flow off rapidly. PRUNING AT TIIVIE OF PLANTING Most people desire a fine top from the day of planting. All of their attention is given to the top, consequently they have an unbalanced tree — ^top-heavy. They argue that to prune spoils the looks of the tree, and their trees are sure to be out of balance — ^more top than root, and more top than roots can support. First give your attention to the roots; secure a good foundation and you can then make the top what you please. In digging trees, especially fruit trees, it is impossible to pre- serve all the roots; consequently we have an unbalanced tree, and the way to overcome this is to do away with some of the Eeed's Garden Guide 73 top. In evergreens, shrtibs, etc., most of the roots are dug with the tree ; consequently little pruning is required. Trees having few roots should be. cut back more than those having many. Roses should be cut back to within a few inches of the ground. APPLES Apples are the one all-purpose fruit for every locality, £md are bound to remain the standard fruit for the South, just as for other sections. Every home should have some Apple trees — at least a dozen ; if there is room to plant more, they should be set out, by all means. There is nearly always a good de- mand at market, and a few trees eight to ten years old will bear enough fruit to bring in considerable money. In selecting kinds for the home orchard, there should be a few early-bearing sorts for summer sauces and pies, as well as for dessert purposes; there should also be some fall varieties, with a liberal number of late sorts to keep during winter. With a good selection and proper care of the fruit, fresh Apples may be had the greater part of the year, eight to ten months at least. Apple trees will thrive almost anywhere; a mellow soil, well drained, is essential. Soil that will grow good crops of corn or cotton will generally do well. In the following list the varieties are given in the order of their ripening, commencing with the earliest and continuing throughout the season. In several instances, two or more varieties ripen at the same time. We also divide our Apples into three groups — summer, fall, and winter varieties. Many of the fine winter varieties that succeed so well in the North and in the mountain sections of North Carolina and Virginia Will not succeed in the lower lands and the great cotton-belt of the South. There are, however, several varieties of fall and winter Apples which do succeed in the cotton-belt, which we feel safe 74 Reed's Garden Guide in recommending and feel that more of this list should be planted. This list will be found on page 76. Early and sum- mer varieties succeed generally throughout the southern and border states, the cotton-belt, as well as in the Piedmont and mountain sections. The trees represented in the following list are strictly relia- ble in every way — true to name, healthy, well developed. We take great pains in growing them to produce thoroughly quality stock; the appearance of the trees themselves proves that we succeed, and this is further evidenced by the large number of letters of commendation which we receive every year, indicating the great satisfaction felt by our customers in our trees and the crops they bear. A selection from our list will bring you trees that you can depend on. We have been growing Apple trees for many years, and our long experience and good reputation are behind every tree we send out. Early and Summer Apples Ripening time given below refers to central-western North Carolina, In Virginia, the season will be a week later; in eastern North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia, a week earlier; and about two weeks earlier in middle and southern Alabama and Mississippi. The summer varieties are arranged about in the order of their ripening; this will be very helpful when making your selection of trees. May. Small, nearly round; pale yellow; pleasant subacid; prolific, hardy, and very popular -on account of its earliness. Early Colton. One of the best early Apples. Medium to large; yellowish white, with a reddish blush next to the sun; flesh yellow, good. Early Harvest. Medium to large; pale yellow; rich, sprightly flavor. June. Yellow Transparent. Medium size; skin clear white at first, becoming pale yellow when mature; flesh white, tender, Reed's Garden Guide 75 juicy, subacid; quality good to very good; very prolific; dwarfish. June. LiVLAND. Ripens with Yellow Transparent; of striking beauty. Yellow, overlaid with splashes of light red and pink; early and prolific bearer; quality very good. Red June. Medium to large, oblong, conical; dark red; flesh tender, mild, subacid; commences to ripen early in June and continues six weeks. Splendid eating Apple. Red Astrachan. Rather large, roundish oblate; covered almost entirely with deep red. A good cooking and market variety. Tree strong, hardy. June. Williams' (Williams' Early Red.) This variety we believe to be one of the best early summer Apples for market or home use. Medium size; dark red; subacid. Eckel. The best summer sweet Apple and the most beauti- ful. Size large; color solid red; quality sweet and good. July to early August. SiAK. One of the best midsummer Apples; 10 to 12 inches in circumference; yellowish green with a faint blush next the sun; quality good; fine for cooking. August. Hames. Large, roundish; whitish, striped, splashed and mottled with light and dark red, sprinkled with yellowish and brown dots; flesh white, rather firm, juicy, brisk subacid; quality good. August. Summer Banana. Size medium; color yellow, covered with stripes and splashes of light red and pink; quality fine, with a decided banana flavor. Horse. Large, oblate conical; yellow, occasional blush next to sun; subacid and good. A very popular old variety for cooking, drying and cider. August. Tucker. A new sort called to our attention three summers ago. Begins to ripen in June and continues all through the summer. Quality very good, especially for cooking. Tree 76 Reed's Garden Guide hardy and a good bearer. Tucker is really the nicest everbear- ing Apple we have ever seen. Autumn Apples BoNUM. Medium, roundish oblate; red, sprinkled with white on greenish yellow ground; rich, juicy, and of very fine quality. Early winter in western North Carolina. See back cover. Buckingham. Very large, oblate conical; covered with red stripes and blotches on a greenish yellow ground. September and October. Delicious is a fall apple in the coastal section. See full description below. Grimes. Medium, oblong; rich yellow color; flesh yellow, rich, with a very delicate, fine flavor. Considered the highest in quality of the fall Apples. October to November. Virginia Beauty. Large, conical; red; flesh yellow, rich. Very good. Late fall. Well known for over fifty years; de- cidedly worthy. Winter Apples Ben Davis. Healthy, vigorous; an abundant bearer; fruit large, handsome, striped; flesh tender, juicy, subacid; fair quality. Black Twig. (Paragon; Arkansas Mammoth Black.) Large, roundish; dark mottled red; fine-grained, subacid. Tree strong and an abundant bearer. One of the best. Delicious. Considered by many to be the finest winter Apple in the world. Large; almost covered with dark red; truly delicious — sweet, aromatic, slightly acid; fine-grained and juicy. Prolific bearer and a fair keeper. Late fall along the coast. Reed's Garden Guide 77 Jonathan. Medium size; nearly covered with brilliant stripes of clear red on a pale yellow ground; flesh white, very juicy, spicy, subacid, moderately rich. Fine keeper; pro- ductive. LiMBERTWiG. Red. Succeeds well in Wilkes and adjoining counties, North Carolina, and in Patrick and adjoining coun- ties, Virginia. Medium, roundish; dull red; good keeper. Reagan (Black Ben Davis.) Similar to Gano and Ben Davis, but superior to the latter in color. Good grower ; annual bearer; fruit handsome and a good keeper. Rome Beauty. Large, roundish, slightly conical; bright red on pale yellow ground; juicy, fine-grained; good quality. Early winter in western North Carolina. Roxbury (Boston Russet.) Large, roundish oblate; flesh yellow, slightly crisp, with a good subacid flavor. October to December. Royal Lbhbertwig. Very large; pale yellow, striped with red; rich, juicy; good. November to February. Shockley. Medium; round; greenish yellow and red; quality good. December to April. Stayman (Stayman Winesap.). Medium to large; yellow and red, with dots; tender, juicy, subacid; quality best; good keeper. One of the most popular Apples, and deservedly so. Terry (Terry Winter.) Ripens late and keeps well. Fruit medium; yellow and crimson; of fine quality. Should be more largely planted in the South. Winesap. Medium, roundish; red, on yellow; fine, crisp, highly flavored. A good old Apple that can't be beaten. Does well everywhere in this section. Winter Banana. Golden yellow, shaded light red; very beautiful; quality fine. Very early bearer. Yates. Small winter Apple; juicy and extra-fine flavor; prolific bearer. Keeps well through the winter. Succeeds all through the cotton-belt and the Piedmont sections. 78 RuEo's Gasdbw Gumm YEliow Newton (Albemarle Pippin.) Large, roundish; yellow I firm; subacid, rich. York Imperiai, (Johnson's Fine Winter,) Large, nearly round, often oblique; whitish, shaded with crimson; flesh yel- lowish, crisp, juicy, subacid. Does well almost everywhere. Midwinter. A Good List Ripening in Succession, June to October The following is a splendid list of early, midsummer and fall Apples, ripening in succession from June to October. There are many other good varieties not mentioned. May, Early Colton, Early Harvest, Yellow Transparmit, Livland, Red June, Red Astrachan, Eckel, Star, Sununer Banana, Horse, Bonum, Buckingham, Grimes, Delicious (Win- ter Apple in the moimtains.) Winter Apples for Special Localities We have planned the following list as an aid to those who may be in doubt about selecting the best varieties. Althou^ the list refers to different sections of North Carolina, the same rule can be applied to other southern states. Where the same variety appears in more than one classification, it indicates tiiat the variety will succeed in different locations. We shall be glad to help you make up your list if requested. Eastern North Carolina Shockley, Stayman, Terry, Winesap, Yates, York Imperial. Middle North Carolina, or Piedmont Mammoth Black Twig (Ark.), Roxbury Russet, Shockley, Stayman, Terry, Winesap, Yates, York Imperial. Bbed's Garden Guide 79 Western North Carolina and the Mountains Delicious, Grimes, Limbertwig, Mammoth Black Twig (Aik.), Rome Beauty, Royal Limbertwig, Stayman, Winesap, Winter Banana, York Imperial. CRAB-APPLES Florence. Medium, oblong; striped red and yellow; very beautiful: Red Siberian, Yellow Siberian. E^tcellent for pickling and preserving. PEARS Pears are so delicious that they certainly should have a prs. 3 lbs. Elm Beetle 1% lbs. 3 lbs. Gypsy Moth IVa lbs. 3 lbs. BAGWORM Arsenate of Lead Paste 1 pound Water 30 gallons Whale Oil Soap 14 pound Mix thoroughly. Reed's Gaeden Guide 115 Yellow Striped Beetle on Cucumbers, Melons, Etc. The yellow-striped beetle is the most serious pest of the cucumber and melon. A probably safe method to protect the young vines until 3 or 4 weeks old is to put hoods made of mosquito netting over them. Fasten the sides down tight to the ground with pegs or clods of dirt or stone. With small stakes set around the plants in ten or wigwam fashions, and the netting placed over them. Bordeaux Arsenate of Lead mixture is also recommended as a good spray. Bordeaux 3 ounces Water 1 gallon QUANTITY OF SPRAYING SOLUTION REQUIRED FOR TREES I have received many inquiries asking how much liquid is required to spray a certain tree or trees. Experience has shown that for a thorough job, and for best results the following approximate amount of liquid should be used. Age of Tree No. of Gallons 1-6 - 1 6-10 IVz 10-16 - 2y2 16-20 — - 4 20-30 - 9 PROTECTING YOUNG TREES FROM RABBITS The wise orchardist will examine his trees in the fall, especially if there is grass or weeds growing near them. He will not wait until the rabbits have ruined a few trees before 116 Reed's Garden Guide taking precautions. With trees costing 65c. to $1.00, it is bad judgment to delay protection which will cost but l^^c. to 2c. a tree. Where the grower has only a few young trees or some re-sets in an old orchard, heavy paper or com stalks may be used to wrap them, which may prove the cheapest. Where the acreage is large it will usually be more economi- cal to buy tree protectors such as wood veneer wrappers, which are quoted at $15.00 per 1,000 for 20 by 10-inch protectors. If a more permanent protector is desired that will last many years, wire protectors may be secured, at $8.75 a 100 in thou- sand lots for 4 by 15-inch protectors. Many firms handle tree protectors. They should be purchased from the nearest source of supply to avoid delay. Caution. Many growers have reported injury from the use of axle grease applied to trunks of young trees to keep rabbits and mice away. Don't use any caustic material. Eeed's Garden Guide 117 PART SEVEN FLOWERS FOR THE HOME ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, WATER LILIES AND AQUATICS IN OLD VIRGINIA I love the mountains wreathed in mist The twilight skies of amethyst, The groves of ancient oaks sunkissed In Old Virginia. I love the gorgeous trumpet flowers. Wild rose and honeysuckle bowers, The woodland incense after showers In Old Virginia. I love the laughter of the rills, Cloud shadows stretched athwart the hills, The jocund song of him who tills In Old Virginia. I love the martial ranks of corn, Their blades agleam with lights of morn. The curtains of the night withdrawn In Old Virginia. I love the Ocean's deep-toned roar. Surf-lashed to foam on wind-swept shore, The spray-bom rainbow arching o'er In Old Virginia. 118 Reed's Gabden Guide I love the modest maidenhood, The deference paid to womanhood, The chivalric and gentle blood In Old Virginia. I love the love of native sod. The simple faith that trusts in God. The heads bowed 'neath the chastening rod. In Old Virginia. — B. B. Valentine. ROSES Order Early To obtain the best results with spring planted Roses, they should be put into the ground as early in March as the tem- perature and condition of the soil will permit. Where rate is not prohibitive, we would advise ordering shipments by ex- press; the plants will come to you more safely packed and in much livelier condition than if sent by mail or slow freight. Treatment on Arrival If upon arrival the roots seem to be very dry, soak them thoroughly in water ; if the stems as well are too dry, bury the entire plant in the ground for two or three days. At no tinie after unpacking should the roots be exposed to the sun or dry winds; a very little neglect at this time working serious if not fatal injury to the bush. Planting In preparing a Rose Bed, select a sunny location guarded from cold north winds, if possible. Dig out the beds to a depth of two or three feet and about three feet in width; then refill Reed's Gabden Guide 119 the trench with a mixture of soil (einy good fertile soil will do) and well rotted cow manure, metking provision for good drainage if location is not naturally drained. Time should be allowed for this filling to settle, the final top surface being an inch or two below the edges of the bed. Do not raise the sur- face of Rose beds above the surrounding surface. They su£Fer less from drought when left level with the turf. Plant your Roses in the center, being very particular to press and tamp the soil firmly around the roots; and soaking the bed thor- oughly at the finish. The Everbloomers may be set 18 inches apart, the Hybrid Perpetuals about 2 feet. After the plants have been set out, keep the soil loose to the depth of an inch or two, by frequent stirrings. An occasional soaking with weak manure water is a great help to Roses of all sorts, and is especially active during the blooming season. Towards the end of July, a mulch of long-strawed manure will aid in pre- serving what moisture is in the soil during the customary droughts of the "Dog Days." Protect for the Winter By covering bed at least 6 inches with leaves or manure; ■a binding surface of dirt, cornstalks or boughs on top. A convenient method is to confine this dressing by an enclosure of 12 inch chicken wire. Pruning Roses are usually shipped with most of their wood, but it is a mistake on the part of many planters to put them in the ground untrimmed. The weak shoots are usually removed by us before sending stock out, so that what the customer gets is all ready to plant except cutting back. Hybrid Perpetual Roses should be cut back, every shoot, to about 6 to 8 inches 120 Reed's Garden Guide above the crown or that part above the roots where the stem begins to branch. Teas and Hybrid Teas need not be cut back quite so hard; the Polyanthias not at all unless stems are too numerous. Every Spring, usually the fore part of March, just before the leaf buds begin to swell, these classes should be treated similarly and the winter covering gradually removed. The Rugosas are pruned merely to keep their growth within bounds and to remove dead wood; the Hardy Climbers are merely trimmed, and inasmuch as their bloom comes only on wood made the season before, the safest and most beneficial time for pruning is immediately ofter their blooming season and before they make new summer growth. Suckers from the Manetti stock should be cut off at once, and may be recognized by a difference in color and arrangement of seven leaves, in- stead of five, as in almost all varieties of Roses. Do not be afraid of the knife; the flowers will be larger and richer in color, and the bed more sightly. Capacity of Rose Beds Although in warm localities, where plant growth is luxur- ious, a greater interval is necessary, 18 inches apart is gener- ally accepted as the proper spacing. On this basis, beds 4% feet wide will take three rows, and if six feet long will require a dozen plants. Or a dozen plants would occupy a 3-foot bed with two rows nine feet long. Delightful arrangements in odd shapes, and by combination of various classes, may be worked out according to the individual planter's fancy and ingenuity. Hardy Tea and Hybrid Tea. American Beauty Brilliant Red. Gruss An Teplitz Rich Crimson. K. A. Victoria Creamy White, Very Fragrant. Killarney Pink and White. La France (Tea) Silvery Pink. Reed's Garden Guide 121 Madame Caroline Testout Salmon Pink. Maman Cochet Pink and White. Mrs. Aaron Ward Golden Orange. Madame Ravary Yellow. Ophelia White, Shaded with Salmon Pink. Radiance Coppery Red. Rhea Reid..Scarlet Crimson, large flowers, bush. Smiburst Bronzy Yellow. Hybrid Perpetual. Anna de Diesbach Brilliant Rose. Clio Satin Blush, Rosy Pink. Gen. Jacqueminot Red and Old Favorite. Frau Karl Druschki White. Geo. Arends _ Rose. Magna Charta... Bright Rose Pink. Mrs. J. H. Laing.. Clear Pink. Paul Neyron Ruddy Pink. Ulrich Brunner Cherry Red. Moss Roses. Perpetual White. Salet, Light Rose. Henry Martin, Red. Ramblers and Climbers. Climbing American Beauty. Crimson Rambler. Dorothy Perkins, Pink. Dorothy Perkins, White. Thousand Beauty, Soft Pink. American Pillar, Red. Rosa Rugose Rubra, glossy wrinkled foliage, bright crimson flowers, 4-5 feet high. Makes beautiful low hedge, bears beautiful red berries in fall. 122 Reed's Garden Guide By permission of Henry A. Dreer, Specialist in flower seed, 714-716 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa., the following arti- cles are published. Hardy Perennial Plants, Dreer's Borders of Hardy Plants, Growing of Flowers From Seed, Annuals and How to Grow Them, by L. H. Bailey, of Cornell Univer- sity. Raising Hardy Perennials From Seed, by Wm. Falconer, and Water Lilies and Aquatics by Henry A. Dreer. HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS Of all the plants that are cultivated for purely ornamental purposes there are none which have made such rapid strides in public favor as the Old-Fashioned Hardy Garden Flowers, the inhabitants of the perennial garden. Their popularity is not at all surprising when we consider the many varied and pleasant changes which take place throughout the entire grow- ing season in a well-arranged hardy border, in which every week — yes, every day — ^brings forth something fresh and new to interest and delight even the most critical. Beginning in April, the early-flowering varieties open their flowers often before the snow has entirely disappeared, and continue with constant changing variety, throughout the summer until late in the fall, when only severe freezing weather will stop such persistent late-blooming kinds as Japanese Anemones, Pompon Chrysanthemums, Gaillardias, Gentians, Tritomas, etc. Twenty years ago there were very few Hardy Borders out- side of some large establishments where one or more profes- sional gardeners were employed, who were familiar with the beauties of the hardy borders as found in almost every garden on the other side of the Atlantic, and who knew how to plan, and plant, and care for them. But a great change has taken place in this country within the last ten years, and there is now a steady and growing interest in this class of plants, and to-day iiHili \i lintt la!)333SSS9SS833«SBSU t llllllllllllllll Hill llillill Ml. ml IP Ji lit »8| L i if.. 31 ias.l liii 9S!fS:$SS9SSsesS9SSIBt -f Mil li if sesiesssesssasaisvis II ill Hi I 124 Reed's Garden Guide almost everyone who is fortunate enough to have even a small garden devotes at least a part of it to hardy plants. This change has, in a measure, been created by the many books on Gardening published in recent years, almost every one of which included a chapter or more on the hardy border, while some of them were devoted exclusively to hardy plants. Unfortunately, while nearly all of the books and magazine articles give glowing descriptions of the delights of the Hardy Border and describe in detail many of the plants, none, as far as we know, give any drawings or plans showing how such a border should be made, or showing the proper location for the various plants in same. The usual excuse for this omission is that each garden demanded special treatment and that no plan or set of plans could be used for any great number ol places, and while this is in many cases true, we feel sure that the several plans which have been prepared by our own expert, embodying our own ideas, and which are reproduced on the next page, will enable many amateurs to undertake the making of a hardy border who have until now been deterred from doing so by not knowing how to go about it. The plants which we have selected to fill the various sec- tions in the borders are the kinds that always do well and are most likely to give satisfactory results. Some planters may prefer to make their own selection, and we like to encourage this, as it gives to every border a touch of individuality. This list should make it comparatively easy, even for a novice, to make a selection to fill a bed of any size or shape without making a serious blunder. We recommend that all hardy borders should have a few clumps of spring-flowering bulbs interspersed along the front, including Crocus, Jonquils, Narcissus, Cottage Garden Tulips, etc. These should be planted from September to November and will greatly add to the interest of the border during the early spring months. We also suggest the putting of a few Reed's Garden Gxjide 125 clusters of Annuals here and there throughout the border to add color during the hot summer months. For this purpose there is nothing better than Marigolds, Gaillardias, Zinnias, Antirrhinums, etc., a few seeds of which can be sown during May in the spaces where they- are wanted to bloom. BORDERS OF HARDY PLANTS These plans have been carefully revised and the plants selected to fill the various spaces are those that from exper- ience we unhesitatingly recommend as the best of their respec- tive types, and once planted will succeed with a moderate amount of care under ordinary conditions. The varieties have been arranged to give a succession of flowers and a variety of color tbroi^hout the border from the time Spring opens until frost in the Autumn, and a large majority of the sorts are suitable for cut flowers during their respective seasons. Each border is 100 feet long by different widths and cor- respond in a general way to the ground usually available for hardy plants in the average garden. The number of plants and the space allotted to each variety permits of the borders being enlarged or diminished and still have the full assortment of varieties; for example, a border 120 feet in length will require 12 plants for each space, while a border 60 feet long will need but 6 plants for each space, the individual spaces being made longer or shorter as the case may be. HINTS ON THE GROWING OF FLOWERS FROM SEED We are convinced that many of the failures with flower seeds are due to lack of proper conditions; and while it would be impossible in the space at our disposal to give explicit directions for each and every variety which we offer we feel 126 Reed's Gakden Guide sure that if the general directions here given are followed suc- cess will be the rule. These directions, we may say, are writ- ten for the latitude of Philadelphia. Customers living in other sections can readily adapt them to their localities. For all flower seeds which should be started indoors, and this includes mslny of our best and brightest summer flowers, such as Heliotrope, Celosia, Lobelia, Salvia, Vinca, Verbenas, etc., the best plan is to sow in earthenware seed pans, or boxes (about 2 inches deep), which should be filled to the depth of an inch with broken pots, coal ashes, or any rough material that will furnish perfect drainage. The upper inch should be nicely sifted soil, composed, if possible, of about one-third each sand, leaf mould and light garden loam. Press firmly and evenly, and water thoroughly the day before sowing. Sow the seeds thinly over surface, cover about one-eighth of an inch and pressing firmly; cover with a pane of glass or one or two thicknesses of newspaper, to prevent the too rapid evaporation of the moisture, and keep in a temperature between 60° and 70°. Water carefully as needed. The importance of uniform attention to this detail is one that can only be learned by ex- perience and observation. To omit a single watering, or too frequent indiscriminate watering, usually leads to failure. Re- move the glass, or covering, as soon as the seeds have germi- nated, and when the seedlings are large enough to handle they should be transplanted into similarly prepared boxes an inch apart each way, or put into small pots and kept in same until time to plant out in the open ground. At all times they should have an abundance of air; otherwise the young seedlings are liable to "damp off." For most of the annual flowers, such as Sweet Alyssum, Calliopsis, Calendula, Marigold, Mignonette, Nasturtium, etc., the simplest method is to sow directly out of doors when dan- ger of frost is past in the space where they are intended to flower. The ground should be dug and raked fine on the sur- Reed's Garden Guide 127 face, sowing the seeds evenly and thinly, either in lines or beds covering not over four times their size, and firming the soil over them. Should they come up too thickly, as most of them are likely to do, thin out so that the plants will stand from 4 to 12 inches apart, according to the variety. This plan is also adapted to many varieties usually started indoors, including Asters, Verbenas, Celosias, Stocks, Salvia, etc.; but as a rule their germination is more certain under glass, and as they be- gin to flower so much earlier when started indoors the extra trouble is well repaid for by their increased blooming period. ANNUALS AND HOW TO GROW THEM By Professor L. H. Bailey, of Cornell University Written for Country Life in America Annual plants are those that you must sow every year. The staid perennials I want for the main and permanent effects in my garden, but I could no more do without annuals than I could do without the spices and the condiments at the table. They are flowers of a season. I like flowers of a season. Of the kinds of annuals there is almost no end. This does not mean that all are equally good. For myself, I like to make the bold effects with a few of the old profuse and reliable kinds. I like whole masses and clouds of them. Then the other kinds I like to grow in smaller areas at one side, in a half experimental way. There is no need of trying to grow equal quantities of all the kinds that you select. There is no emphasis and no modulation in such a scheme. There should be major and minor keys. The minor keys may be of almost any kind of plant. Since these plants are semi-experimental, it does not matter if some of them fail outright. Why not begin the list at A and buy as many as you can afford and accommodate this year, then con- 128 Eeed's Garden Guide tinue the list next year? In five or ten years you will have grown the alphabet, and will have learned as much horticul- , ture and botany as most persons learn in a college course. And some of these plants will become your permanent friends. For the main and bold effects I want something that I can depend on. There I do not want to experiment. Never fill a conspicuous place with a kind of plant you have never grown. The kinds I like best are the ones easiest to grow. My per- sonal equation, I suppose, determines this. Zinnia, Petunia, Marigold, Four O'Clock, Simflower, Phlox, Scabiosa, Sweet Sultan, Bachelor's Button, Verbena, Calendula, Calliopsis, Morning-glory, Nasturtium, Sweet Pea — these are some of the kinds that are surest and least attacked by bugs and fungi. I do not know where the investment of five cents will bring as great reward as in a jyacket of seeds of any of these plants. Before one sets out to grow these or any other plants, he must make for himself an ideal. Will he grow for a garden effect, or for specimen plants or specimen blooms? If for specimens, then each plant must have plenty of room and re- ceive particular individual care. If for garden effect, then see to it that the entire space is solidly covered, and that you have a continuous blaze of color. Usually the specimen plants would best be grown in a side garden, as v^etables are, where they can be tilled, trained and severally cared for. There is really a third ideal, and I hope that some of you may try it — to grow all the varieties of one species. You really do not know what the China Aster or the Balsam is until you have seen all the kinds of it. Suppose that you ask your seeds- man to send you one packet of every variety of Cockscomb that he has. Next year you may wemt to try Stocks or annual Poppies, or something else. All this will be a study in evolu- tion. There is still a fourth ideal— the growing for gathering or "picking." If you want many flowers for house decoration and IJEED's GrAKDEN GUIDB 129 to give away, then grow them at one side in regular rows as you would potatoes or sweet corn. Harvest them in the same spirit that you would harvest string beans or tomatoes; that is what they are for. You do not have to consider the "looks" of your garden. You will not be afraid to pick them. When you have harvested eai armful your garden is not despoiled. I like each plant in its season. China Aster is a fall flower. In early summer I want Pansies or Candytuffs and other early or quick bloomers. For the small amateur garden greenhouses and hotbeds are unnecessary, and they are usually in the way, There are enough kinds of annuals that may be sown directly in the open ground, even in New York, to fill any garden. AH those I have mentioned are such. In general, I should not try to secure unusually early effects in any kind of plant by start' ing it extra early. I should get early effects with kinds of plants that naturally are early. Let everything have its season. Do not try to telescope the months. I have sown China Asters in the open groiind in early June, in New York State, and have excellent fall bloom. Things come up quickly and grow rapidly in May and June. They hurry. The spring bloom you are not to expect from annuals. That you are to g^ from perennials — ^the spring bulbs, soft bleeding-hearts, spicy pinks, bright-eyed polyanthuses and twenty more. Make the soil rich and fine and soft and deep, just as you would for radishes or onions. There are some plants for which the soil can be made too rich, of course, but most persons do not err in this direction. The finer and more broken down the manure the better. Spade it in. Mix it thoroughly with the soil. If the soil is clay-like, see that fine manure is thor- oughly mixed with the surface layer to prevent "baking." Watering is an exacting labor, and yet half of it is usually unnecessary. The reasons why it is unnecessary are two: The soil is so shallpwy prepared that the roots do not strike deep 130 Reed's Gabden Gxjidb enough; we waste the moisture by allowing the soil to become hard, thereby setting up capillary connection with the atmos- phere and letting the water escape. See how moist the soil is in spring. Mulch it so that the water will not evaporate. Mulch it with a garden rake by keeping the soil loose and dry on top. This loose dry soil is the mulch. There will be moisture underneath. Save water rather than add it. Then when you do have to water the plants, go at it as if you meant it. Wet the soil clear through. Wet it at dusk or in cloudy weather. Before the hot sun strikes it renew your mulch, or supply a mulch of fine litter. More plants are spoiled by sprinkling than by drought. Bear in mind that watering is only a special practice — ^the general practice is to so fit and maintain the ground that the plants will not need watering. The less your space the fewer the kinds you should plant. Have enough of each kind to be worth the while and the effort. It is more trouble to raise one plant than a dozen. It is usually best not to try to make formal "designs" with annuals. Such designs are special things, anyway, and should be used sparingly and be made only by persons who are skilled in such work. A poor or unsuccessful design is the sorriest failure a garden can have. This brings up a discussion of the proper place to put an- nuals. Do not put them in the lawn — ^you want grass theit. Supposing that you grow the annuals for garden effect, there are two ways of disposing them — ^to grow in beds or in bor- ders. Sometimes one method is better and sometimes the other. The border method is more informal, and therefore the simpler and easier. Its pictorial effect is usually greater. But in some places there are no boundary lines that can be used for borders. Then beds may be used; but make the beds so large and fill them so full that they will not appear to be mere play-patches. Long beds are usually best. Four or five feet wide is about the Reed's Gabden Guidb 131 limit of ease in working in them. The more elaborate the shape of the bed, the more time you will consume on keeping the geometry straight and the less on having fun with the plants. Long points that run off into the grass — as the points of a star — are particularly worrisome, for the grass roots lock hands underneath and grab the food and moisture. It is surprising how many things one can grow in an old fence. The Four-o'clocks (see cut) illustrate this point. Most persons owning this place would think that they had no room for flowers; yet there the Four-o'clocks are, and they take up no room. Not all annuals will thrive under such conditions of partial neglect. The large-seeded, quick-germinating, rapid- growing kinds will do best. Sunflower, Sweet Pea, Morning Glory, Japanese Hop, Zinnia, Marigold, Amaranths, are some of the kinds that may be expected to hold their own. If the effort is made to grow plants in such places, it is important to give them all the advantage possible early in the season, so that they will get well ahead of the grass and weeds. Spade up the ground all you can. Add a little quick-acting fertilizer. It is best to start the plants in pots or small boxes, so that they will be in advance of the weeds when they are set out. First and last, I have grown practically every annual offered in the American trade. It is surprising how few of the uncommon or little-known sorts really have great merit for general purposes. There is nothing yet to take the place of the old-time groups, such as Amaranths, Zinnias, Calendulas. Daturas, Balsams, Annual Pinks, Candytufts, Bachelor's But tons. Wall-flowers, Larkspurs, Petunias, Gaillardias, Snap' dragons. Cockscombs, Lobelias, Coreopsis, or Calliopsis, Cali fomia Poppies, Four-o'clocks, Sweet Sultans, Phloxes, Mig- nonettes. Scabiosas, Nasturtiums, Marigolds, China Asters. Salpiglossis, Nicotianas, Pansies, Portulacasj Castor Beans, Poppies, Sunflowers, Verbenas, Stocks, Alyssums, and such good old running plants as Scarlet Runners, Sweet Peas, Con- 132 Rped's Garden Guide volvuluses Ipome^, Nasturtiums, Balloon Vines, Cobaeqs. Of the annual vines of recent introduction, the Japanese Hop has at once taken a prominent place for the covering of fences and arbors, although it has no floral beauty to recommend it. For bold mass-displays of color in the rear parts of the grounds or along the borders, some of the coarser species are desirable. My own favorites for such are: Sunflower and Castor Bean for the back rows; Zinnias for bright effects in the scarlets and lilacs; African Marigolds for brilliant yellows; Nicotianas for whites. Unfortunately, we have no robust- growing annuals with good blues. Some of the Larkspurs are perhaps the nearest approach to it. For lower-growing and less gross mass-displays, the fol- lowing are good: California Poppies for oranges and yellows; Sweet Sultans for purples, whites and pale yellows; Petunias for purples, violets and whites; Larkspurs for blues and vio- lets; Bachelor's Buttons (or Cornflowers) for blues; Calliopsis and Coreopsis and Calendulas for yellows; Gaillardias for red- yellows; China Asters for many colors For still less robustness, good mass-displays can be made with the following: Alyssums and Candytufts for whites; Phloxes for whites and various pinks and reds; Lobelias and Browallias for blues; Pinks for whites and various shades of pink; Stocks for whites and reds; Wallflowers for brown-yel- lows; Verbenas for many colors. I should never consider a garden of pleasant annual flowers to be complete that did not contain some of the "everlastings" or immortelles. These "paper flowers" are always interesting to children. I do not care for them for the making of "dry- bouquets," but for their interest as a part of a garden. The colors are bright, the blooms hold long on the plant, and most of the kinds are very easy to grow. My favorite groups are the different kinds of Xeranthemums and Helichrysums. The Reed's Garden Guide 133 Globe Amaranths, with clover-like heads (sometimes known as bachelor's buttons), are good old favorites. Rhodanthes and Acrocliniums are also good and relifible. Some of the perennials and biennials can be treated as an- nuals if they are started very early indoors. A number of the very late-flowering annuals should also be started indoors for best success in the northern States, as, for example, the Moon- flowers and the tall-growing kinds of Cosmos. If flowers of any annual are wanted extra early, the seeds should be started indoors. It is not necessary to have a green- house for this purpose, although best results are to be expected with such a building. The seeds may be sown in boxes, and these boxes then placed in a sheltered position on the warm side of a building. At night they can be covered with boards or mattiag. In very cold "spells" the boxes should be brought inside. In this simple way seeds may often be started one to three weeks ahead of the time when they can be sown in the open garden. Moreover, the plants are likely to receive better care in these boxes, and, therefore, to grow more rapidly. Of course, if still earlier results are desired, the seeds should be sown in the kitchen, hotbed, cold frame, or in a greenhouse. In starting plants ahead of the season, be careful not to use too deep boxes. The gardener's "flat" may be taken as a sug- gestion. Three inches of earth is sufficient, and in some cases (as when the plants are started late) half this depth is enough. Of late years there has been a strong movement to introduce the hardy perennials into general cultivation. This is certainly to be encouraged everywhere, since it adds a feeling of perma- nency and purposefulness that is needed in American gardens. Yet I should be sorry if this movement were to obscure the importaDce of the annuals. 134 Eebd's Garden Guide RAISING HARDY PERENNIALS FROM SEED Written expressly for us by Mr. Wm. Falconer, of Pittsburgh Hardy perennials are easily grown from seed. In many cases they are a little slower than euinuals, but with intelligent care they are successfully raised, and from seed is an excellent way to get up a big stock of perennials in a short time. Many perenials, if sown in spring, bloom the first year from seed as freely as annuals; for instance, Gaillardias, Iceland Poppies, Chinese Larkspur, Lychnis, Shasta Daisy, Platycodon, etc. Others wait a year; that is, if sown this year they don't bloom until next year. These include Cardinal Flower, Golden Alyssum, Campanula, Pyrethrum, Columbines, Gypsophiia, Polyanthus, Fox-gloves, Lythrum, Physostegia, etc. There is no rigid rule in this. It often happens that Hollyhocks, Del- phiniums, Grass Pinks and others, if sown early in the season, bloom fairly well before the end of the first summer. The seeds may be sown in spring or in summer. In spring the sowings may be made in the window, the hot bed, the cold frame, the greenhouse or in the open groimd out of doors. In the window prepare pots or flower-pans or small, shallow wooden boxes or flats; fill to one-third their depth with fine broken cinders or broken pots, and over this place a thin layer of moss, chopped straw or rough siftings from the soil to keep the dirt from clogging the drainage; then fill up to within one- half or three-quarter inches of the brim with fine, free, mellow soil, with thin layer of very fine soil over it. Tamp the pot on table to firm the soil a little. Now sow the seed evenly, and shake a very little fine soil over it; press it all over with the back of the hand or a board, then water gently through a fine spray or rose; this done strew a little fine earth over all. lu the case of very fine seeds covering only enough to hide the seed Reed's Garden Guide 135 is plenty, but Pinks, Gaillardias and other rougher seeded sorts one-eighth inch deep of covering may be given. Keep the seed pots in a warm, sunny window, but shaded with a thin curtain from drying sunshine. A sheet of paper laid over the pot at this time prevents over-drying, but when the sunshine passes, take oflF the paper, else damp or mold will set in. A pane of glass laid over the pots or flats until germination appears is an excellent preservative of the moisture in the soil, but always tilt it up at one side one-eighth of an inch or more. When the seedings come up, give them more light by keeping them close to the glass, and before they overcrowd one another or become spindly transplant them into other pots or flats, three-quarters or one inch apart from one another, according to their size and strength. As the weather gets mild, by placing the seed- lings in a cool and airier place, as on the porch or a sheltered place out of doors, they become fairly inured to the open weather, and when they are large enough for final transplant- ing set them out in the garden. The amateur may have more success and less bother grow- ing hardy perennials from seeds sown in the open ground than in any other way. Prepare a bed in a nice, warm, sheltered spot in the garden, preferably not very sunny; let the surface of the bed be raised four or five inches above the general level, and the soil be a mellow, free, fine earth on the surface. Draw shallow rows across the surface of the bed, three to four inches apart, and here sow the seed, keeping the varieties of one kind or nature as much together as practicable; cover the seeds thinly, press the whole surface gently, water moderately, then dust a little fine, loose soil over all. If the weather is sunny or windy, shade with papers or a few branches, but remove these in the evening. When the seedlings come up thin them out to stiffen those that are left, and when they are two or three inches high, they are fit for transplanting, into permanent 136 Reed's Garden Guide quarters. All this should be done in early spring, say Match, April or May, or in warmer localities a month earlier. Again, in July or August perennials are very easily raised out of doors, and much in the same way as above. Observe how seedlings spring up in July or August in thousands around old plants of perennial Larkspur, Coreopsis, Hollyhocks and Fox'gloves. The same holds good with artificially sown seeds ; carefully note somewhat similar condition. Transplant these seedling in late August or early September to get well-rooted stocky plants before winter sets in. WATER LILIES AND AQUATICS AND HOW TO GROW THEM Written and Published by Henry A. Dreer, Inc., Phila. All water, whether it be a lake, stream, pond or even a small pool, seems to hold a certain charm for everyone, and, when this water is inhabited and beautified by aquatic plants and fish, it becomes fascinating. More especially is this the case when the plants are Royal Victorias with their immense leaves and flowers or gorgeous tender Nymphaeas and Nelum- biums, or the chaste and artistic hardy Water Lilies, and when we consider the ease with which these plants can be grown, there is no reason why every natural lake, pond and stream baving the proper conditions, which are sunshine, still, warm water, and plenty of rich soil, should not be so beautified. Where stagnant pools exist it becomes a hygienic necessity to stock same with plants and fish for, as in the house aquarium, when poorly balanced with plant and animal life, the water becomesj and will remain, pure and sweet, and in place of a mosquito and malaria-breeding pool, we tiave a healthful and delightful aquatic garden. The varied colored water lilies given the same or similar conditions as those under which our Reed's Garden Guide 137 native varieties are found, will grow luxuriantly and flower profusely the entire season and will give more pleasure for the time and care expended in their cultivation than any other plants of which we know. When taken into consideration the amount of flowers produced and space covered by a single specimen Nymphaea, even the rarer and more expensive varie- ties become inexpensive compared to the cost of the most ordi- nary bedding plants. Size of Ponds. For those who have not the advantage of natural ponds or large artificial basins, there are many varie- ties which can be grown successfully in half-barrels or any water-tight receptacle having a diameter of two feet or more, but the greater the surface space, the better will be the results. Constructing Ponds. In constructing artificial ponds where the soil is not sufficiently retentive to hold water, a good method is to smooth and poimd firmly the bottom and sides of the excavation, then cover the whole with a layer of six inches of puddled clay, pounding it well with wooden mauls so as to bring it into one solid mass. Cover the sides with rough stones or put on a thin layer of Concrete. This will prevent the sides from washing. When ponds are built of cement or concrete below the level of the gfound, the top of wall should be built in a wedge shape and plastered smooth with cement, both in- side and out. This will prevent, to a great extent, the frost heaving it during the winter months. A total depth of two feet is sufficient; one foot for soil or tubs and one foot for watet, with an overflow so constructed that the pond can be entirely drained or the water held at any level desired. In constructing ponds, except when in connection with formal gardens and buildings, they should be of as natural an outline as possible with here and there a clump of marshloving plants — a piece of two of rough rock-work, planted with rock plants^a clump of hatdy ornamental grasses; hatdy herbaceous plants and specimen flowering shrubs, but always leaving open space from 138 Reed's Garden Guide where the loveliest of all, the Water Lilies, can be seen and admired. Soil for Aquatic Plants. The ideal soil is the natural muck of ponds, but all water lilies and Nelumbiums will grow well in any good garden or field soil enriched with one-fifth well-rotted manure or, if manure is not procurable, use 21^ pounds ground bone to each hundred pounds of soil or 1 quart ground bone to each bushel of soil. Depth of Water. This may vary from a few inches to four feet, but all of the hardy Nymphaeas will give better re- sults if only covered by 12 inches of water during the siumner months. For growing in water two feet or more deep, only the strong growing varieties of Nymphaeas should be chosen. Ten- der Nymphaeas and Nelumbiums should not have more than twelve inches of water above the crowns. Water Supply. As all Water Lilies, and more especially the tender varieties, prefer still, warm water, it is a mistake to have any fountain or other continuous inflow of water in con- nection with artificial ponds or tanks, and in natural ponds, when such are fed with a large inflow of cold spring water. Lilies will not be a success. For artificial ponds and tanks it is best only to give enough fresh water to replace what is lost by evaporation, etc., and the best method of doing so is to give the ponds a good sjrringing from a hose late in the afternoon or early in the evening. The syringing, besides giving the neces- sary amount of fresh water, will be very beneficial to the plants, as it will keep in check green and black fly and keep the leaves free from dust. The Culture of Hardy Nymphaeas Planting in Natural Ponds. The best results will be obtained when planted in the natural mud bed, but if the water should be too deep, construct boxes two feet or more square Reed's Garden Guide 139 by one foot deep and place in pond twelve inches below water. Planting in Artificial Pools. The entire bottom can be filled in with twelve inches of soil top dressed with two inches of sand or gravel, or the plants can be planted in tubs or boxes which will contain one bushel of soil more or less according to the growth and size of flowers desired. A water lily planted in one peck of soil will produce as many flowers, but the size of flowers and diameter of plants will be very much less than if same plant were planted in a greater quantity of soil. For this reason it seems to be good practice to pleuit into rather small tubs, for small pools allowing more variety to be grown and the size of plants and flowers are more in keeping with size of pool. To Grow in Tubs and Half-Barrels. Many of the Nym- phaeas and other aquatics, and all of the Nelumbiums can be successfully grown in half-barrels. To do this, fill the tuba half -full with soil, top-dressed with two inches of sand, allow- ing about sis inches of water. Sink the tubs in the ground to within three inches of the top. When more than one tub is used a very ornamental effect can be produced by leaving a space between the tubs to be used as a miniature rock garden. Method of Planting. In planting Hardy Water Lilies in natural pools all that is necessary is to push the rhizome hori- zontally into the mud so that the growing crown will just be covered, placing a stone on top clear of crown so as to keep rhizome from floating before it takes root. In planting in tubs or boxes the soil should be rammed as firm as possible and top-dressed with two inches of sand or gravel, then plant as above. Time of Planting. Hardy Nymphaeas can be planted at any time from April to August. The best results, however, will be obtained if the planting is done just as they start into growth, which, in the vicinity of Philadelphia, is about May 1st. 140 Reed's GakdEn Guide Distance ApaHt. In small tanks or ponds there should be from three to six feet between each plant according to quantity of soil they are growing in; in large ponds or lakes the best effects are secured by planting in groups of six or more plants of one variety to each group, allowing eighteen inches between each plant and from ten to twenty-five feet between each group, depending upon the size of the pond, location, etc. Exposure. All Nyniphaeas and other flowefing aquatics should be planted so that they will be exposed to full sunlight. Wintering. Hardy Nyiiiphaeas need no care during the winter, provided the water is of sufficient depth so that it will not freeze to the crown of the plants. In cement tanks drain off all the water and fill in with leaves or cover with boards and leaves or litter. Tubs may be wintered by emptying the water and removing to a cool cellar or greenhouse, or they may be covered with leaves and soil in the garden in such a manner that they will not freeze. Replanting. Hardy Water Lilies which are being grown in tubs or boxes will require to be replanted every second or third year. This is best done in early spring just as they start into growth. The plants should be lifted, the soil fairly well shaken off and all side eyes or shoots cut off and the main rhizome or root stalk cut off at frdm four to eight inches from growing crown according to variety. The tubs should be re- filled with ffesh soil and the strong growing crowns replanted. The side eyes Or shoots, if planted in separate tubs, using two of tkf6e eyes to each tub, will niake floWeting plants the same season. In natural ponds where the Lilies are planted out, the strong fhizotned varieties, sUch as Alba and Marliadea and their varieties, will be benefited by above treatinent eVefy fourth or fifth yedr, but the Odbrata and TubefoSa varieties if planted whete they have suffleient room to spread will reqttife no replanting or dividing. Eeed's Garden Guide 141 Fertilizing. All the Hardy Water Lilies will be very much benefited, especially those grown in tubs or boxes, if given a top dressing of ^4: inch of ground bone covered with ^ inch of sand in the spring, unless they have just been replanted, in which case they will require no fertilizer. For those planted in natural ponds broadcast the bone on surface of water at the rate of one-half pound to every 100 square feet of surface. The Culture of Tender Nymphaeas These will grow and luxuriate under the same conditions as the hardy Nymphaeas, but the more sheltered and warmer the location, the better will be the results. Where artificial heat can be introduced into the pond in early summer, the results will more than repay for the extra care and trouble. Tender Nymphaeas should not be planted until after the weather has become warm and settled or at about the same time that such tender plants as Coleus, etc., are planted in the border. Fpr those who have greenhouse accommodation it will be better to purchase dormant bulbs, which should be started into growth about April 1st by being potted into six-inch pots, placed in shallow tanks 10 inches deep under clear glass, the water to be at a temperature of 70° to 80°. Under these conditions they will be extra large plants by planting time. Summer Treatment. If the very best results are wanted. Tender Water Lilies will require very liberal treatment during the growing season. After the plants are in active growth with a good spread of leaves, about July it will be very beneficial to fertilize the plants every seven or fourteen days according to their growth and weather conditions. The best fertilizer for this purpose is dried blood, applied at the rate of a small hand- full to each plant by simply sprinkling above tub on surface of water. This fertilizer will sink and become immediately 142 Reed's Garden Guide available for the feeding roots and will do no harm to fish or other aquatic animals. Winter Treatment. Tender Nymphaeas must be lifted as soon as they have been touched with frost and transferred to tubs of water in a warm greenhouse or cellar and kept there until the leaves have died off. The tubers should then be stored in moist sand and kept at a temperature of 60 degrees. For those who have not the proper facilities, namely, heated greenhouse tanks, it will be much better to allow tender Nym- phaeas to freeze and replace with fresh stock each year. The Culture of Nelumbiums or Lotus These are supplied in tubers and should not be planted before May 1st. The treatment is the same as recommended for hardy Nymphaeas excepting that they do best when planted in mud or soil that is at least two feet deep and covered only with six inches of water. When planted with other aquatics there should be partitions of brick or boards so as to confine the tubers, otherwise they will soon take possession of the entire pond. In planting, place the tubers horizontally in the mud so that the point will be merely covered. The Culture of Victorias These should not be planted in the open pond until after June 1st unless the pond is artificially heated, so that a tem- perature of 80 degrees can be maintained, in which case the plants may be planted as early as May 10th. For very best results each plant should have at least three cart-loads of soil for the roots and 300 square feet of water surface for the de- velopment of its leaves and a depth of from twelve to eighteen inches of water above crown of plant. From experiments made this past summer we find miniature perfect plants can be grown Beed's Garden Guide 143 if planted in half-barrels and submerged ten inches below sur- face of water. When grown this way leaves three feet in diameter can be had with a few small flowers making very interesting plants. In other respects their requirements are the same as recommended for tender water lilies. Submerged Plants All tanks, ponds or lakes should have submerged plants growing in them to aerify the water, thereby keeping it pure and sweet. The best plants for this purpose are Anacharis canadensis gigantea, Cabomba viridifolia and Vallisneria spiralis. These can be planted in water from six inches to two feet deep. Six plants in a pool ten feet in diameter will be ample. Marginal Plantings All pools, lakes and streams should have their margins beautified by suitable plantings. Without a thorough knowledge of conditions and general surroundings, it is impossible to suggest just what to plant; but, on general principles for small and medium sized pools, a planting of the various bedding and ornamental greenhouse plants will be found very effective, including such popular subjects as Caladium esculentum, Cannas, Pennisetum, Ricinus, etc., all of which are described in our annual Garden Book; while the margins of large artificial pools, lakes and streams will be found admirable places for plantations of trees, shrubs and hardy perennial plants, bearing in mind that except in natural moist and springy places, that the banks of lakes and streams are nearly always suitable for growing plants which require a well-drained soil. 144 KEED'S GabPEN CrUIDE Fish Fish should be in all ponds from the smallest tub to the largest lake, as they will destroy all mosquito larvae and other insects. In lily ponds gold fish are preferable, being both use- ful and ornamental, and, if fed regularly at one place and hour, they will soon become very tame and will be found await- ing this expected meal, which may consist of a small quantity of rolled oats or corn me^l. A tub should have two fish in it, and twenty-five fish will be sufficient to stock a pond one hun- dred feet in diameter. Enemies Black and Greenfly. These can generally be overcome by using a strong force of clear water from the hose which washes them oif on to the water, where the fish can get them. If this fails, a solution of one teaspoonful of Nicoticide to one gallon of water, applied in a very fine spray, will destroy them. Leaf Miners. Which sometimes infest the floating leaves of Water Lilies. Use one ounce Arsenate of Lead to one gallon of water. Apply in fine spray once or twice a week. NBL0MBIUM Caterpillar. Dust with a mixture of one pound Slug Shot and one ounce dry Arsenate of Lead. Apply with powder bellows before sunrise. If applied later it will not ^tick to leaves and will be useless. Musk Rats. The worst of all aquatic enemies, are easily kept in check by steel rat-traps, set in their diving holes or about two inches under water, where their runs enter pond. Have the chain fastened to a stake driven into die mud well out in the water, so that when trap is sprung the rat will not be able to reach the bank or it will escape. Green Scum. The most troublesome and unsightly pest of the aquatic garden is very prevalent during May and June, Reed's Garden Guide 145 generally disappearing after the Water Lilies have attained their full growth. There does not seem to be any safe fungi- cide for it, and the best remedy is to flush the surface off with clear water every evening, if possible, allowing the pool to overflow. This, if carefully done, will get rid of it in a week or ten days time. Growing Water Lilies From Seed Sowing Seeds of Hardy Nymphaeas. Hardy Nymphaea are best sown in fall in half-barrels or tubs filled to within four inches of the top with soil. Sow the seeds thinly and cover with about % inch of sand; fill the tubs with water and place in a cool cellar or greenhouse where they will not freeze. In spring remove to a warm sheltered place in the open air where the seeds should soon germinate. Do not transplant the seedlings until the following spring when, after they have made one or two leaves, they can be planted in the pond the same as recommended for rhizomes. It is sometimes also advisable in stocking large natural ponds to sow the seeds by broad- casting on water where it is shallow and allow the seeds to take care of themselves naturally. This is best done in the autumn. Sowing Seeds of Tender Nymphaeas. Sow from January to April in pots or pans, using any good potting soil and cover the seeds with one-fourth inch of sand, give a thorough water- ing and allow to drain for an hour or more, then submerge in water fully exposed to sun and at a temperature as near 70 degrees as possible. Two inches of water over the soil is of sufScient depth. As soon as the seedings have made two leaves, put them singly into small pots and when well rooted repot into four or five inch pots, from which size they may be planted into their flowering quarters. Sowing Victoria Seeds. Sow Victoria Regia at any time between January 15th and April 1st in pots or pans, using 146 Reed's Garden Guide finely sifted soil. Cover the seeds with one inch of soil and a slight dusting of sand. Submerge the pots so that they will btj four inches below the surface of the water, the temperature of the water to be maintained at 90° to 95°. After the seedlings have made two leaves, pot them singly into three inch pots and repot into larger pots ae required. Seeds sown before Feb- ruary 15th should be in twelve inch pots or pans by May 15th. The water temperature can be reduced to 80° after the first potting. To successfully germinate Victoria Trickeri, cut a small hole with the point of a sharp knife through the shell on the opposite side from where the germ is, sow and give the same treatment as recommended for V. Regia. Victoria Trickeri seed will germinate in water at a temperature from 70° to 95° and £in atmospheric night temperature of 60° to 65° will be suiHcient for both varieties. To maintain as high a temperature as required to germinate and grow Victorias, a metal tank is best. This should be placed in as light a position and as near the glass as possible. Enclose it below with a wooden case and use a lamp or gas jet to give the desired uniform heat. All metal tanks, before being stocked with plants or seeds in pots, should have one inch of mud spread over the bottom. Sowing Seeds of Nelumbiums. Cut a hole through the hard shell of each seed with a sharp knife and sow three or more seeds in May or June in a water bucket which has been filled four-fifths full with soil. Place outdoors in a warm sheltered spot, fully exposed to the sun and keep filled with water. The seeds should germinate in about two weeks' time and should be left undisturbed all summer, protected from frost in winter and planted in their permanent quarters the following May. This is best done by planting the bucket so that it will just be covered with surrounding soil. This causes no disturbance of roots of which all Nelumbians are very im- Reed's Gakden Guide 147 patient of, and the new growing rhizomes will soon find their way over bucket into the fresh soil. Aquariums and How to Care for Them ' Aquariums, when properly stocked with fish and plants and given intelligent care, are one of the, most beautiful and inter- esting ornaments which can be had for the house. The best shaped aquarium is a rectangular glass or iron frame with glass sides and slate bottom of a size which will hold ten gallons or more of water. The larger the size the better will be the results, as a large body of water is less sub- ject to temperature changes and is therefore better for both anhaal and plant life. A good balance can usually be had by allowing two gallons of water to each medium-sized fish, using sufficient plants to make a pretty efifect. One or two plants in each corner, with a center plant for large aquariimis, is usually enough. The usual way of stocking an aquarium is to place two inches of fine gravel in bottom in which to plant the plants, but we advise placing the plants in small flower pots, 2 to 2^4: inch size, using a very sandy or gravely soil, placing the pots where desired and filling in between and over the top of pots with gravel, broken rock or shells, making the same as irregu- lar as possible, which will add greatly to the artistic effect; by this method the plants can be moved at will and, when the aquarium requires cleaning out, the plants can be removed without any damage. Nearly all submerged aquarium plants obtain their nour- ishment from the water more than from the material in which they are planted, and for this reason plants potted into small pots, as stated above, will remain in good condition for a num- ber of years with no more attention than an occasional pinch- 148 Beed's Gaedbn Guide ing off of the long shoots so as to encourage new growth from the bottom. An aquarium stocked in above manner should be placed in a window with a north or northeast exposure or, if such is impossible, far enough back from any window, so that the plants and fish will not be subjected to direct sunlight. The fish need only sufficient food so that they will eat it all at once. If a few Japanese snails and tadpoles are added, there should be no necessity of cleaning an aquarium oftener than once or twice a year, although it will be found good practice to remove one or more quarts of water each week, according to size of aquarium, replacing same with fresh water of as near the same temperature as possible. It is also good practice to give fish a salt bath once a year, and never to put in a new fish without giving it a salt bath, and, if possible, hold it in a separate aquarium for a week or vmtil all danger of fungis or other troubles are past. A tablespoon- ful of table salt to one gallon of water will make the proper salt bath, and the fish should be allowed to remain in same for about one hour. Aquarium Fish and Plant Troubles — Their Causes and Remedies Milky Water. Too much food. Stop feeding until water clears. Green Water. Green, brown or reddish growth on glass; green, brown or whit& hairs on plants. Caused by too much light. Shade and add a few more tadpoles and snails. Greasy Scum on Water. Caused by gases, either illumi- nating, sewer or organic. Remove cause, add floating plants, tadpoles and snails. Reed's Garden Guidk 149 White Spots or Web on Sand, Plants and Fish. Fungus growth. Add a pinch of salt, dissolved in a tablespoonful of water. Offensive Smeix. Dead animal matter. Remove cause and, if very offensive, clean out aquarium, washing all contents thoroughly before refilling. A properly managed aquariimi should never have any odor. Leaves and Stems of Plants Losing Their Color. Not enough light. Give more. Plant Stems Decaying Near Base. Too tightly planted. Loosen soil or gravel or replant. Plants Uprooted. Improperly plemted. Firm sajid or gravel around roots and see that they are topdressed with good- sized pebbles or broken stone to keep fish from rooting in soil. Plants Losing Lower Leaves. Too much top growth. Pinch plants back so as to make them break into growth from bottom. Fish All Gasping, Noses Out of Water. 1st: Lack of oxygen. 2d: Too many fish for size of aquarium. 3d: Im- pure water. Remove cause and re-oxyginate water by dipping water up and letting it splash back many times. If careful attention is given to the foregoing warnings, there is no reason why any aquarium should not be successful £md the water should not require changing more than once or twice a year. When making this change, it will be advisable to use part of old water in refilling, and great care should be taken to get temperature of fresh water as near as possible to that in which the fish were. There is nothing more dangerous to aquarium life than constant changing and cleaning of the aquarium. 150 Reed's Gaeden Guide PEONIES "Queen of Spring Flowers" Peonies are close rivals to roses, and during its short season inspires as much enthusiasm and rivalry among plant lovers as its older rival. Plant good clumps in the falL. Every 3 or 4 years clumps should be divided and reset. Do not plant too deep. The roots should be placed so that the crowns are covered with 2 inches of soil. Varieties Albatre White shaded ivory. Albert Crousse. Pure shell piiik. Dorchester Late pink, dwarf. Festive Marima White early. La Perle. White with blush center. L' Indespensible Lilac white, tall. Mad. Boulanger Glossy pink, late. Mad. Ducel Pink, good bloomer. Marguerite Gerard Creamy white. Marie Jaquin White waxy. Marie Lemoine Dwarf late, white. Octave De May Pink, white collar. Red Dragon Rich red. Victoire Violet rose, salmon center. Virginie Large, bright rose. DAHLIAS Culture. Dahlias are not particular as to the soil oi location. Although maximum growth and bloom reward the full sun, some of the stronger sorts develop most perfect speci- Reed's Gaeden Guide 151 mens in partial shade; and localities with a moist atmosphere or dewy nights are apt to give better results than a drier air. A judicious use of fertilizer is always beneficial, but too much causes profuse foliage and stem at the expense ot bloom. Frequent cultivation prior to their blooming season is abso- lutely essential to success. Time for planting varies according to climate, but is generally safe after all danger of late frosts is past. Tubers should be planted abdut 6 inches deep, laid flat, eyes or sprout up. Although good, lively tubers are apt to produce more stalks, started plants give practically an equal amoimt of bloom. Cactus Dahlias Attraction Heavy stems, lilac-mauve. Brunhilde - Violet purple. Mrs. Clinton Orange scarlet. Winsome Creamy white. Kalif - Turkey red. Strahlen Krone Cardinal, purple center. Break O'Day Sulphur yellow. Decorative Dahlias Delice Light pink. Chieftain Light red, splashed with yellow. Daphne - Pink, shading to white. Mina Burgle Dark scarlet. Mont Blanc Creamy white. Show Dahlias A. D. :ivoni Clear pink, quilled petals. Arabella Yellow, edged with peach blossoms. Cuban Giant Bright maroon. David Warfield Cherry red. 152 Reed's Garden Guide Dee-light Pure white. Dorothy Peacock Shell pink. Dneer's Yellow ..Yellow, profuse bloomer. Drear's White Glistening white. Emily Solferino, white markings. Ethel Britton Creamy white. Red Hussar Cardinal r«l. Susan ■ Shell pink. White Swan... Pure white. Yellow Duke Yellow. Peony Flowered Berche van Heemstede Yellow. Caecilia Large white, yellow center. Chatenay Carmine rose. Dr. Peary Reddish mahogany. Geisha Scarlet and gold. Variegated Franz Liszt Reddish purple. GLADIOLUS For a succession plant at intervals from April till June. Plant 6 inches apart and 4 inches deep. Varieties American Pink. Augusta Pure white. Baron Hulot Violet blue. Glory Ruffled, creamy white. Klondike Yellow with maroon. Mrs. Francis King Vermilion red. Niagara Creamy yellow. Peace. Pure white. Rgeed's Garden Guide 153 Schwaben Yellow, garnet throat. Princeps Dazzling scarlet. Capt. Ferber Pale violet, blotched violet amaranth. Pink Perfection Pink. Yellow Hammer Yellow. CALADIUMS (Elephant Ear) For best results, they must have plenty of water and a deep well maniured bed. Best results are obtained from large sized bulbs, which must be taken up or protected during winter. TUBEROSES Delightfully fragrant; fine for bouquets. Plant when ground gets warm. Give plenty of water. Albino Single white. Pearl Double white. IRIS (Flag Lilies) Do not plant clumps too deep, and do not use fresh stable manure. Iris make a rich, evergreen, dense border. German Iris Lohengrin Violet, mauve, large. Queen of May Soft rose. Fulda White and feathered yellow. 154 Reed's Garden Guide Johan de Witt Bluish violet, veined with satin. Lorely Fall, a deep ultramarine-blue bordered with yellow creamy white viens. Japan Iris Tora-odori Pure white traced with violet. Yomo-no-umi Creamy white. Yoshimo Creamy white, veined with violet. Nagona Violet purple. Mahogany Mahogany red, late. CAN N AS Culture. No other bedding plant will give the same uniform good results in our trying and varied climate thaii Canna lilies. They do well in all sections of the country, and stand pre-eminently at the head of the list, succeeding in any sunny position in any kind of soil, but responding quickly to liberal treatment. Spade beds 2 feet deep using a liberal amount of stable manure thoroughly incorporated and at all times supplying water freely. Set plants 2 feet apart. Dazzler Green foliage, red. Dr. E. Ackerknecht Carmine. Eureka. White. Finale Fiery red. Favorite Yellow, spotted with red dots. General Merkel Brilliant scarlet. King Humbert Bronze foliage, scarlet. Meteor Blood red. Orange Bedder Bright orange. Uhlberg Rosy carmine. Wyoming Orange flowers. Reed's Garden Guide 155 HARDY DECORATIVE FLOWERING SHRUBS Almond. Primus Japonica flora alba plena, white, 2-3 feet. Double white fragrant flowers. Almond. Prunus Japonica flora rubra plena, red, 2-3 feet. Double red fragrant flowers. Barberry, Jap. Barberis, 1-2 feet. Good for hedges and specimens, scarlet berries in fall. Betterfly Bush. Buddeya, variabilis, lilac, 5-7 feet. Flowers continuously all season. Crab. Malus, Pink, 3-4 feet. Double highly fragrant flowers. Deuizlv. Candidissima, white, 5-6 feet. Flowers in June. Deutzia. Crenata Rosea, white pink tinged, 5-6 feet. Dou- ble flowering. Deutzia. Gracilis, white, 2-3 feet. Dwarf bushy habit. Dogwood. Cornus Florida, white, 7-8 feet. Dogwood. Cornus Rubra, pink, 7-8 feet. EuoNYMOus, Jap. Aurea Var. evergreen, 6-8 feet. Globe Flower. Kerria, yellow, 3-4 feet. Double flowers; May and June. Golden Bells. Forsythia, yellow, 4-5 feet. Flowers first warm days after winter. Honeysuckle. Lonicera Jap., Bush, white, 3-5 feet. Bright red berries in fall. Hydrangea. Arborescens Gf. Alba, white, 3-4 feet. Snow- ball large flowers, very showy. Hydrangea. Paniculata Gf. white, 3-4 feet. Good for specimens or in masses. Lilacs. Syringa Persian, purple, 4-5 feet. Profuse bloomer. LiiACS. Syringa Vulgaris alba, white, 7-9 feet. Old fash- ioned lilacs. 156 Reed's Garden Gotde Lilacs. Syringa Vulgaris, alba, white, 7-9 feet. Mock Orange. Philadelphus, white, 6-8 feet. A good old fashioned shrub. Pepper Bush. Clethra Alnifolia, white, 5-6 feet. Beautiful white spikes in July. Plum. Prunus Pissardi, pink and white, 8-10 feet. Lus- trous foliage till frost. Quince. Pyrus Japonica, red, 7-9 feet. Beautiful cherry red flowers, fruit is edible. Rose of Sharon. Althea alba, white, 7-9 feet. Double. Rose of Sharon. Althea Atropurpurea, purple, 7-9 feet. Double. Rose of Sharon. Althea Duchess de Brabant, red, 6-7 feet. Double. Rose of Sharon. Totus albus, white, 5-6 feet. Single. Snowball. Vibernum, Plicarn Jap., white, 4-5 feet, This little Jap should be in every lawn. Snowball. Viburnum opulus sterilis, white, 9-12 feet. Common white. Spirea. Anthony Waterer, crimson, 18-24 inches. SpireA. Bridal wreatfi, white, 4-5 feet. Very showy wreath. Spirea. Billardi. 4-5 feet. Sweet Shrub. Caljrcanthus, chocolate color, 4-5 feet. Sweet smelling shrubs. Weigelu. Amabilis, pink, 4-6 feet. Weigelia. Candida, white, 4-8 feet. J^HiTE Fringe. Chionanthus, white, 7-9 feet. Reed's Gakden Guide 157 INDEX A Big Little Garden 14 A Helpful Garden Plan 38 Almonds 55 American Elm _ _ 57 Amount of Seed Required (Lawn) _ 103 Annuals and How to Grow Them _ 127 Apricots _ 85 Apples _ 73 Apples, Crab _ - 79 Artichoke _ _ 18 Aquariimi, Fish and Plant Troubles 148 Arrival of Trees _ 46 Bag Worms 109 Banding Trees 109 Beans - 19 Beans, Pole _ _ 20 Beans, Lima _ _ 21 Beets „ _... 21 Blight - _ 110 Blight Control _ „ Ill Blackberries _ 96 Border Beds, Sunny and Shady Positions 123 Broccoli - 21 Broom Com 21 Brussels Sprouts . 22 Butternuts ~ 55 Cabbage 22 Caladiums 153 Cannas 154 Carrote - ~... 22 Cauliflower _ - _ _ 23 Caring for Trees Before Planting 170 Celery - 23 Celeric 24 Chicory 24 Cherries , 85 Collards 25 Com 25 158 Reed's Gaeden Guide Cold Frames 35 Crop Rotation 12 Cultivating and Mulching Trees 18 Currants 97 Cucumbers 24 Cultivating the Garden 15 Dahlias 150 Dedication 7 Dewberries 97 Don'ts About Dynamite 64 Digging Holes _ 46 Digging Holes with Dynamite 77 Distances for Planting 94 Dusting 113 Dynamite for Orchard and Garden 63 Egg Plant 25 Endive 25 Eradicating Wild Onions 62 European Linden 58 Evergreens 46 Fall Web Worms 108 Filberts 55 Flowers for the Home 117 Foreword 8 Fruits for the South „ 66 Gladiolus 152 Gooseberries 98 Gourds 26 Government Whitewash 59 Grapes 98 Grapes, Muscadine 100 Grafting Wax 60 Growing Water Lilies from Seed 145 Growing Flowers from Seed 125 Green Gage : 85 Hardy Decorative Flowering Shrubs 155 Hardy Plants 125 Hardy Perennial Plants 122 Hardy Perennials from Seed 134 Herbaceous Plants 35 Reed's Garden Guide 159 Home Decoration _ _.. . 43 Horse Radish 26 Humus for Garden in October _ 11 "In Old Virginia" 117 Iris 153 Kale 26 Kohl Rabi 26 Lawn Making 102 Lawn Grass Seed 103 Leek _ 27 Lettuce _ 27 My Aunt's Garden 10 Martynia 27 "Miss Virginia Pippin" 65 Mulching Trees 48 Muskmelons 28 Nectarines _ — . 85 Norway Maples 57 Nut Trees 54 Okra - 28 Onion 28 Onion Sets _ 29 Oriental Plane 57 Open Cavities ~ 61 Parsley _ 29 Parsnips _ - 29 Peas 29 Peanuts - _ - 30 Pecans 56 Pears 79 Peaches 87 Peonies - 150 Pepper 30 Pet-Sai .- 30 Perennial Herbs 35 Pin Oak - 57 Planting Suggestions 18 Plums and Damsons 82 "Pomatoes" 37 Pop Com ■■ 31 160 Ebed's Garden Guide Potatoes , „ ~ - 31 Fotatoes, Sweet - - — 31 Preface ™ - — — S Protecting: Trees from Rabbits — 115 Pruning Deciduous Shrubs — — — ~ 53 Plruning Graiie Vines , 51 Pruning Apples, Pears, Eta. - — 52 Pumpkin .,...„ -. — -,. - 31 Purchasing Seed ... ,. — ,.,.., _.. - 16 Quality of Solution Required for Trees 115 Radish - --- 32 Raspberries - - ~ 56 Rhubarb - 32 Roses ~ - 118 Rooting Privet - — 59 Rutabaga - 35 Salsify 32 San Jose Scale 105 Schwedleri Maple — .. 57 Setting Plants 36 Setting Trees 47 Shade Tree Pruning 50 Sowing Seed ., 102 Spinach _ 32 "Spray, Spray, Spray" 104 Spray Formulas _ _.lll Spraying Dormant Trees _ 105 Sterilizing Cavities 61 Stone Fruits , 51 Strawberries ,. 95 Street Trees 57 Surface Propagation , , 102 Squash , 33 Taking Care of Lawn 104 Tender Nymphaeas 141 The Care of Shade Trees 106 The Garden of Today 11 The Vegetable Garden 9 Tobacco ...- 33 Tomatoes 33 Reed's Garden Guide 161 Tomatoes Grafted on Potatoes _ 37 Transplanting Trees 53 Tree Guards _ 49 Tree Paint _ 60 Tuberoses _ 153 Turnips _ _ 34 Walnuts ...- _ _ - 55 Water Lilies and Aquatics _ 136 Watermelon - 28 Watering the Garden 37 Watering Trees _ - 49 What Can Be Realized from a Small Garden 14 What Fruits Shall We Plant? 69 When and What to Plant 14 Why Some Seed Fail to Grow 16 Wild Goose Plum _ 85 Words Pertaining to Gardening 40 Yellow Striped Beetle 115