ASIA •■"•« ■»■■ OF THE MANTZE *J * o. * fl» O C.jrjAk.r^. \AliH-.im fa 1-3 OJntnell Iniaerattij Eibrarg CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918 The dates BlBu when this voIume\was taken. Cornell University Library DS 785.E23 The Marches of the Mantze / 3 1924 023 218 393 The original of tliis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023218393 Photo by\ \R. y. Da-vidson THE TOWN OF TATSIENLU PROM THE SOUTH. The Marches of the Mantze J. H. EDG^ll MISSIONARY ON THE TIBETAN BORDER PREFACE BY CECIL POLHILL CHINA INLAND MISSION LONDON, PHILADELPHIA, TORONTO, MELBOURNE, & SHANGHAI MORGAN & SCOTT, Ltd., 12 Paternoster Buildings, LONDON, E.G. PREFACE The Marches of the Mantze is the Chinese designation of that large tract of country situated to the west of Szechwan and east of Tibet. Of this country little is at present known, and less has been published. As this district is now entering upon a new era in its history, the following particulars, by one who has resided there for many years, cannot fail to be of interest. Whether it be to the missionary who seeks to preach the Gospel where Christ has not been named, or to the student of history and geography, all that pertains to a hitherto unknown land must appeal with special power. As early as 1877 Dr. Cameron of the China Inland Mission travelled through these regions. In 1888 the writer, with his wife, commenced the study of Tibetan with the help of an old Mongol who had formerly been with the well-known Jesuit travellers, Hue and Gabet. After a short residence at Sungpang they subsequently opened Tatsienlu in 1897 as a mission station for work in this border country. From that time onward work has been maintained, with the exception of a break occasioned by the Boxer Crisis. The following pages THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE foreign, who are already in the field, and for any others who may enter upon that task in the future. Already one or two Chinese workers have volunteered for service on this field, and there are openings for a few picked men from the home country should such offer. CECIL POLHILL. HowBHRY Hall, April 16, 1908. CONTENTS FAOE Preface by Cecil Polhill ...... iii Ui/AG IN Eastern Tibet ....... 1 Travblijng by Coracle . 4 The Marches op the Mantze ...... 7 Travelling in the Marches ...... 9 A New Era in the Marches ...... 14 Tatsienlu 22 BatanGj the Last Town in China ..... 27 Litang, the Highest City in the World ... 33 Towards the Soitrces of the Great Yangtze River . 41 The Unexplored Region south of Litang ... 50 King So and his People ...... 54 The Chia Rung States ....... 59 ILLUSTRATIONS The Town op Tatsienlu fbom the South The Tatsienlu Rivbb in Gorge below the Town" . 6 Lama Temple and Courtyard near Tatsienlu . . 15 Front op China Inland Mission House, Tatsienlu . 24 ULAG IN EASTERN TIBET The traveller in Tibet will not have proceeded very far beyond the bounds of China Proper before he becomes acquainted with a system known as Ulag, some- times written Ula. The word seems to be of Mongolian origin, but it is well known in the Chia Rung regions, and as it finds a place in the Tibetan dictionary of Jaschke we may consider it a common term throughout Tibet. Ulag is a species of socage service rendered to princes. Government officials, and priests. China, in order to maintain her suzerain powers in Tibet, is obliged to keep a large staff of officials in the country, and these, owing to the necessity of maintaining the dignity of their position in the eyes of the Tibetans and the exigencies of their mode of life, require not only a large body of retainers and soldiers, but also provisions, ammunition, and the means of transporting money and goods. As the term of service for Chinese officials in Tibet is only three years, it will be readily understood that official travelling expenses would be a most serious item in the public account if the Govern- ment were obliged to defray these expenses itself. Recourse is therefore had to the system of Ulag, under 1 B THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE which, in return for a grant of lands adjacent to the highways, the native tenants are obliged to provide means of transport from one stage to another. The control of the system is in the hands of the native chiefs, who form settlements at convenient places along the main roads, where a fixed number of animals are kept for the transport service. Merchants and, generally speaking, foreigners are not entitled to Ulag, and they are supposed to make their own transport arrangements with the native chiefs and the Lamaseries. This method is usually most unsatisfactory, as the following example will show. The native chief having informed the traveller that he has no power to grant Ulag, offers to assist him in procuring pack animals. The unwary traveller falls into the trap, accepts the offer, and pays cash down for transport through the chiefs territory. The price paid seems fair, and the traveller starts off, his caravan in charge of a head man supplied by the chief, con- gratulating himself on being able to escape the vexatious delays of the Ulag. Alas, he soon finds that his money has gone into the chiefs coffers, and that he is dependent on the truculent Ulag owners after all. Having paid the full amount due in advance, the traveller naturally refuses to make any further payments en route, with the result that he is provided with the worst animals, is constantly delayed, and acquires a reputation for meanness among the natives. Often the Lamas step in and absolutely refuse animals until extra payment has been made. It usually ends in his having to pay double the price he would have done had he at the outset insisted on receiving Ulag. After such experiences the traveller, although on 2 ULAG IN EASTERN TIBET moral grounds he may condemn the Ulag system, finds himself practically forced to make use of it. Theoretic- ally there is nothing wrong with the system, and when first instituted it was doubtless advantageous to all concerned, but it has been seriously abused by unscrupulous Chinese and Tibetan officials, and it has afforded an opportunity for "squeezes," which the avaricious Lama has not failed to turn to his own profit. And now along the official roads crumbling ruins and a growing desolation tell of the failure of a system which, innocuous in itself, has been ruined by the avarice and oppression of the country's rulers. In the region between Tatsienlu and Batang families are constantly migrating to less public districts, away from the main roads, in order to escape the exactions of the Ulag and its managers. The nature of the Ulag varies in diflFerent districts, but the transport is usually effected by mules, horses, cattle, and yak. In Badi Bawang, U-t'ong, and Chala porters are common. They only carry very small loads for very short stages, and will take no responsibility for the safety of their burdens. In these districts no remuneration is expected, and the work is usually done by women and girls, even small children being pressed into the service. The yaks and oxen used for Ulag are usually fairly good specimens of their kind, but not so the horses. These are often animals strayed or stolen from caravans, or the riff-raff^ of the border markets. The blind, halt, and sick unto death are all employed, and when unfit for further service their hides fetch a small price in the lowland markets. II TRAVELLING BY CORACLE The construction of a coracle is exceedingly simple. A willow framework in the form of a huge basket is covered with a coat of bullock hide, the seams of which are carefully sewn together and covered with pine pitch. The structure, when complete, is quite watertight, and has the appearance of a huge oyster shell some four feet in diameter and three feet deep. The problem on these waterways is to have a craft which can stand the strain of the fierce rapids and be steered with almost no sweep. It must also be light enough to be carried back to the starting-point. The coracle, weighing about 70 lbs., answers these purposes admirably, although it does not inspire the novice with confidence as to its construction and mode of progress. It is the child of dire necessity and wanton daring, and the infallible herald of non-Chinese tribes. In districts where the queue, clothes, houses, and speech apparently indicate that the inhabitants are Chinese, the coracle is a clue which, if followed up, will finally force the reluctant admission of Mantze parentage. Coracles are to be found at Batang and at Hokow on the Yalung River, but the present description refers to experiences on the Tung River. This almost 4 TRAVELLING BY CORACLE unknown stream, which joins the Min at Kiatingfu, has at least four names. From Kiatingfu up to Fulin it is known as the Tung or Brass River ; from Fulin to Romei Chango, 1200 li, as the Tatu or Great Ferry River ; from Romei Chango to Choschia it bears the name of the Tachin or Great Gold River ; and above Hsuching, the western limit of Chinese influence in these regions, it has another local nslme. Coracles are first seen at Luting Chiao, 1000 li above Kiatingfu, but they are only used in a limited way. They are next found above and below Romei Chango, almost another thousand li higher up among the mountains. In this district they not only act as ferries, but carry goods and passengers down the quieter reaches. The real starting-point of the coracle traffic, however, is not far from the Choschia border and the terminus at Mari Pang, a small military station just inside the state of Badi Bawang. The distance between these two points is about 50 English miles, and the unique experience which such a journey affords is well worth the risk of life and limb which it entails. Our journey was most exciting. The steersman confided to me, soon after we had started, that in view of the unique value of his freight he had taken a larger allowance of intoxicants than usual. "Already," he said, " I am half drunk." He seemed to me quite so, and I was unable to appreciate his forethought as he evidently intended I should. We were three passengers, besides the owner, and we were told to pack ourselves close together and sit still or the craft would certainly upset. At first the cramped position was most uncomfortable, but we soon forgot to notice this as our attention was otherwise engaged. 6 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE The tendency of the coracle is always to circle, and although in smooth waters the steersman's paddle is able to counteract this to some extent) the rotary motion becomes most uncomfortable and alarming whenever a rapid is reached. At the same time rough water tosses the coracle from side to side, as if it were a cork. We go whirling, swaying from side to side, diving up and down until we really seem to have lost all sense of place or time or feeling. Just as darkness comes on we reach our destination and step on shore, cold and cramped, but not even splashed with the waves which threatened to engulf us. The old boatman, a Chia Rung tribesman, enter- tained us with gruesome tales relating to his calling on the way down, and as I look back, and think of that frail craft and its drunken owner, the dark river and those furious rapids through which we passed, the whole thing seems more like a troubled dream than an actual stage of a live missionary's journey. Ill THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE " The Marches of the Mantze " is a term which may fittingly be applied to that large tract of country in which Tatsienlu, Batang', and Siangcheng are situated to the west of Szechwan. From east to west averaging about 500 miles, and from north to south somewhat more, it consists on the whole of high, treeless plateaux from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above sea-level, surrounded by high ranges from 17,000 to 20,000 feet. These high plains and higher ranges furnish supplies for the countless rivers which, flowing south, wear out the interminable ravines that characterise the region under discussion. On the plateaux the most luxurious swards abound, and furnish sustenance for the myriads of yak, horses, sheep, and other animals of the nomad. Here also are found the black and white tents of the Tibetan, which are so eminently suited for the roving life that their calling demands ; but in the lower valleys, worn out by the ever-flowing streams, houses and even large settlements have become the rule, where every available portion of land is cultivated, and where generations of experience have taught the native to make the best use of the seemingly worthless soil. 7 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE The climate in the Marches is generally rigorous in the extreme, and the high altitudes at first may cause the traveller some anxiety, but the human system soon adapts itself to changed environment. In the summer months a glorious sunshine, enchanting landscapes, and the picturesque tents of countless herdsmen meet the eye, but in winter an Arctic desolation prevails, and men and beasts hasten to the warmer valleys or hibernate in the sandy soil of the steppes. The people inhabiting the Marches are of Tibetan descent, and without exception speak the language of this people. Here also are noticed some religious instincts, the dislike of foreign rule, the nomadic and predatory habits, the tribal form of government, with polyandry and suggestions of a former matriarchy, a disregard of cleanliness, a love of ornaments, and peculiar diet which characterises the whole Tibetan race. This wild land has always resisted Chinese pretensions. Expeditions have devastated it again and again; various forms of government have been employed more or less favourable to Peking ; and schemes to colonise it have proved disastrous. It is a matter of history that it has insulted and killed China's high officials ; those paltry regions have arrogantly defied China for years ; and native chiefs, believed to be loyal agents, have, in the evil day, proved traitorous. But many think what has happened in the past will be an index to the future, and that the wild Marches will continue to exasperate and perplex China. To this day, be it noted, the regions of Chantui, Sanai, Linkasi, and other places are either directly under Lhassa, or remain, like Deffge, practically independent of either that centre or Peking. 8 IV TRAVELLING IN THE MARCHES The roads through the Marches and the means for transport are peculiar. The pedestrian, so common on the plain, and the strings of heavily burdened coolies or stolid carriers, are unknown west of Tatsienlu, and the traveller and his baggage are at the mercy of the ungroomed and often unreliable animals of the Tibetans. A look at the map of the Marches will explain the change. The official road to Lhassa passes along the northern border of the Marches, the rivers of which are ve^y numerous. The rivers flowing south and the road going west, the traveller is not only near the watershed of a great river system but is continually dipping into the valleys of the above rivers and crossing the passes of the mountains which divide them. The road through the Marches is only once — and that in the valley of the Yalong — below 12,500 feet, while twelve passes, not one of which is under 14,500 feet, must be crossed ! Travel in these regions is very complicated. Not only are large numbers of baggage animals required, but also such as are suited to high altitudes and peculiarly broken roads. Every official travelling in the interior must carry enormous quantities of food, 9 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE clothing, etc., for himself and his retainers, and the expense and worry of fitting out, and keeping up, a caravan suited to these regions would be well-nigh impossible. Few who have not visited the Marches will under- stand what a prodigious task the administration of Tibet really is, and it will no doubt surprise many to know that the multitudinous officials and suites, changing once in three years for reasons both humane and Imperial, means a literal stream of ingoing and outgoing officials, soldiers, couriers, and tribute bearers connected with the Tibetan administration. And on the whole China has made arrangements to overcome the difficulties of travel in one of the highest thorough- fares in the world, in principle eminently satisfactory, and by no means as unfair as generally supposed. Briefly, the safest and most convenient way to travel in the Marches is to use either the horses of the Courier stations or the socage system known as Ulag.^ The Courier stations were established about 1730 a.d., and placed at varying intervals between Tatsienlu and Lhassa, with the object of keeping up communication between Peking and the latter city. In each station were Chinese and Tibetans who were expected to furnish and keep in condition a certain number of horses or other animals, which might be required at a moment's notice, to travel with despatches, Government servants or baggage of same to the next Courier station. The expenses of the station were defrayed by the Peking and Lhassa Governments, or native rulers respectively. The Chinese Couriers received 48 taels per annum, and the Tibetans, ^ For Ulag, see page 1. 10 TRAVELLING IN THE MARCHES in silver and grain, an amount equal to 60 taels. During the late rebellion all the Litang Tibetan Couriers fled, but they are still to be found in Batang and Chagla. In 1903 I used both the "Han and Mantang" horses, and paid at the rate of 200 cash a day for each animal. But in all matters requiring large caravans such a system is manifestly inadequate, and we find the Ulag always demanded for the ingoing and outgoing Ambans, civil and military intendants, tribute caravans, and punitive expeditions. As a rule, when a small number of animals is required, well-known centres along the way, such as Hokow, Litang, Lamaya, and Taso, furnish them ; but when the demand is in hundreds, the whole region must send animals to specified centres for use on a certain day. This Ulag is really a tax on the districts, and, I think, adjusted in proper proportion ; but apart from the Government concessions allowed, a payment of 100 or 200 cash for each animal per diem is demanded. Now when we remember the number of animals owned by every one everywhere, and the cheap- ness of fodder and labour, 2000 cash given to the children who tend the nine or ten animals from the Ulag station is really a fair price in itself. Yaks, mules, and horses are the animals used, and as a rule carry enormous loads up steep and high passes and down into deep ravines with the utmost composure. But the daily changing of riding-animals leaves the rider always at a disadvantage, for his horse may shy, bite, roll, or kick, without warning, and generally in the most undesirable places. My experience of both Ulag and Coiu-ier transport is that the Tibetans really 11 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE receive a fair remuneration when the custom of giving 200 cash a day per animal is adhered to. For the missionary to keep his own animals would not only be very expensive, but it is questionable if when wanted they would fulfil the requirements which the arduous journeys demand. These difficulties have been long felt by the Chinese, and the above system is the outcome, which, although open to serious abuses, is nevertheless fair in theory, and often profitable to the Tibetan. Occasionally, in the case of high officials, and the wives of officials, chairs go^ into Batang and beyond. The road presents no difficulties to this mode of travelling, except that the passes demand the attend- ance of about double the men customary on the plain. Apart from the expense, a lady could travel from Batang to Tatsienlu with a fair amount of comfort. The cost of a foreign lady travelling from Tatsienlu to Batang would be about 42 taels. The traveller in the Marches who follows the official road has, as a rule, the choice of one or more rest- houses in a day's journey. These , buildings, always associated with Courier stations, although often dirty and cheerless beyond description, furnish a person with shelter and utensils for cooking his meals. At times the traveller may be also able to procure Tsamba, butter, milk, and eggs from the inmates. Welcome as these rest-houses are in a land which without the Han would either demand prodigious stages or a "camp out," the future traveller will find something much more satisfactory. The Chinese Government has decided that her officials in the Marches require better accommodation, so 12 TRAVELLING IN THE MARCHES the indefatigable H.E. Chao has given orders for the erection of new and better-planned rest-houses on the old sites, and in one or two cases, where much needed, quite new houses. Large numbers of carpenters and Maochow masons have been for months squaring beams, sawing boards, fixing frameworks and building walls. And now most are finished. They are all flat-roofed, with one storey only. The walls in front are always of wood, but those outside may be of mud, gravel, stone, or wood. Both the upright stays and rafters are very powerful, and the timbers generally heavy and likely to endure. At present the flat mud roofs leak profusely, but this will be remedied in time. The plan of the houses with their reception hall and side rooms is distinctly Chinese. The beds are strong and com- fortable, and the guest hall chairs, tables, beds, and side- boards plain but pretty. In the Batang region the lower part of the building is taken up by the Couriers of the " Han and Mantang." In conclusion, the writer sees no reason why the road to Batang may not be travelled with safety and even comfort. Sufficient nourishing food must be carried, and abundance of warm clothing. The altitudes, from 13,000 to 17,000 feet, at first seem formidable, but it is surprising what little difference one notices in the most elevated plateaux. Whether animals or palanquins are used depends on the mood, exchequer, or sex of the individual. In any case good oilskins, warm underwear, and furs are necessary, and the bedding should always be warm and abundant. As storms are of daily and often hourly occurrence, the bedding should always be wrapped in oilskins or rubber sheets. 13 V A NEW ERA IN THE MARCHES About three years ago a serious rebellion agitated the whole region west of Tatsienlu, and as it was to mark the beginning of a new era in the Marches it is worth examination in some detail. It is relatively correct to say that the rebellion had been simmering for many years. The abuse of the socage system, arrogance of the Lamas, avarice of the native chiefs, and the cruelty of the Chinese had caused widespread dissatisfaction among the people in districts abutting on the main roads. But more serious forces were at work. When the writer arrived at Tatsienlu in 1902, Russian influence was paramount at Lhassa. Dorj iefF, an educated Ru ssian Buriat, had so gained the ear of the Dalai Lama that a secret treaty had been signed favourable to Russia, and preparations were being made by Tibet to cast off the yoke of China. Both England and China were alarmed, and the former demanded a settlement of outstanding questions affecting her Indian border. But the Tibetans treated the demands with such contempt that an expedi- tion was despatched to demand a settlement at Lhassa if necessary. After weary months of fruitless waiting, and often sharp fighting, the capital of Buddhism was 14 A NEW ERA IN THE MARCHES entered only to find that the Dalai Lama and DorjiefF had fled towards Urga. An agreement, however, more or less satisfactory, was signed by some authority in Tibet, and Colonel Younghusband returned to India. For years also China had been striving to assert her authority in East Tibet, territory nominally her own. Some time ago, within the last decade, China, taking advantage of a local embroglio, marched into Chantui, and either by arms or money obtained some alleged concessions. But the moral of the expedition was lost when it was known that the high officials concerned were degraded, and Lhassa's claim to the territory admitted at Peking. About the same time threats, moral suasion, and punitive expeditions failed to procure lasting peace, or even formal submission, in either Siang- cheng or Sanai. In 1903 the powerful Lamasery at Litang openly defied China, and for some time it was uncertain whether the local chiefs and the Chantui confederacy would join with them. However, owing to the prompt and courageous action of Sub-Prefect Liu at Tatsienlu, the clique suffered a severe blow by an attack on the Lamasery in which the Lamas were defeated and the Abbot with some of his relatives summarily beheaded. About the same time, also according to a persistent rumour, Batang, Litang, and Chantui had a secret agreement in which throwing off China's yoke and influence was aimed at. In 1904, owing to a grant of mining rights in the sub -chieftaincy of Kata, the opportunity for action seemed imminent, but Chantui retired from , the union and the forces of China were allowed to march on Tailing and demolish the famous Lamasery unopposed. 16 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE But at last a mistaken policy at Peking and the lack of tact displayed by a leading official were the sparks which exploded the magazines of Tibetan discontent. Feng, a Manchurian, received appointment as "Deputy Imperial Commissioner of Tibetan Affairs," with instructions to reside partly at Batang and partly in Chamdo. This arrangement was very unpopular, inasmuch as it threatened to interfere with the freedom of the native chiefs. But when Feng, shortly after his arrival at Batang, included in his policy a scheme for reducing the power and population of the Lamaseries, priests and people were both against the Government. At the end of 1904 the crisis was so acute that the Commissioner Feng deemed it safer to retire to Tatsienlu. But he had only proceeded ten li beyond Batang, when thousands of ambushed Tibetans surrounded the party of fifty men and exterminated them without distinction of race or rank. Then the rebels, returning to Batang, drove out the Chinese and occupied the city for nearly four months. Among those killed was a Roman Catholic priest' and five converts. News of the rebellion soon reached Chengtu, and a punitive expedition under General Ma was organised immediately, and arriving at Batang on the 24th of the sixth month, recaptured the city, executed the two chiefs, and sent an expedition to exterminate the inhabit- ants of Chihtsuen, who were more directly concerned in the death of H.E. Feng. It was the intention of the Chinese General to first sack and then destroy the huge Lamasery of Tinglinsze, but the Lamas forestalled him by themselves burning the wonderful building and the bridge over the Chihtsuen River, and fleeing with the temple treasures to the inaccessible mountains of Sanai. 16 A NEW ERA IN THE MARCHES The abbot, however, was latterly given up by the Chihtsuen natives and executed as a rebel of the Chinese Empire. At Siangcheng operations dragged on until the 4th intercalary month of the 32nd year of Kwang Hsu (1906), and it was not until the capture of Yen- ching in the 12th month of the same year that the war was brought to a close. The outcome of the rebellion was not only startling because the power of Lamaism was broken, and the old form of native government discarded, but also on account of the fact that China is full of plans for the reorgan- isation of the conquered regions. Not only are the strategic centres garrisoned with troops and officials appointed, but the conditions of travel are improved, a telegraph terminates at Batang, and every inducement is offered to Chinese to cultivate the waste lands and work the mineral deposits of the country. By comparing conditions now obtaining with those observed by the writer in 1903 an idea of H.E. Chao's influence in the Marches may be gathered. The con- dition of Litang, for instance, in those days was by no means reassuring. The Lamas, although lately punished by the Chinese forces, were truculent and unfriendly, and the native chiefs endured the Chinese because of their inability to oust them. Brigands thronged the mountains, and the great regions south of Litang were closed to Chinese and foreigners alike ; and in the city, among officials, traders, and soldiers, thefearofthe Lamas had taken the place of the fear of God. But revisiting the region again after three years the change is really remarkable. Then all was chaos and uncertainty ; now order and confidence in Chinese rule is manifest every- where. This is largely due to the humiliation of the 17 e THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE Lamas. Although the Litang colony has not suffered, the haughty and defiant confederacies at Batang and Siangcheng have been broken up, the temples sacked and destroyed, and the Lamas killed or disbanded. And there is a feeling at Litang that China would make no exception in this region if circumstances demanded it. Again in Litang and Batang the native rulers have come to grief, the latter two suffering the death penalty for high treason, and the former being deposed for ever. One is now a fugitive in Tibet, and one died by his own hand while on his way to Chengtu. There is no doubt that the people recognise that the strong arm of China has done all this, and rebellion is no part of the Tibetan's programme. But in case they might forget, China has placed a camp of one thousand men in the city under a Tao-tai, who drills them daily according to foreign methods. Moreover, this body of men attends to many details which now make Litang both pleasant and safe to live in. Bodies of men, for instance, patrol the streets demanding both orderly and decorous behaviour. They are also con- cerned with a policy for the extirpation of brigands, and in this respect alone have done an important work. Whole regions formerly infested by these picturesque but inconvenient gentry are now quite safe. On the awful Hwangtukang, 16,000 feet above the sea-level, companies of soldiers from the Litang camp spent the winter in order that the district might be free from the road agents. Although large numbers have been caught, travellers within the last few days have been robbed, and at Lamaya, sixty li distant, success is only in its initial stages, for both the Nepaulese Embassy and the Lhassa Amban have been pillaged; and one morning, 18 A NEW ERA IN THE MARCHES when asking the explanation of a midnight disturbance, I was told that a robber had been caught plying his old trade on the Siangcheng road. Now the outcome of all this is a confidence in the Government, which is highly beneficial to the Chinese and Tibetans. Business is increasing rapidly ; trees are being planted in the waste lands ; telegraph communica- tion connects the city with Peking ; and the Roman Catholics have bought buildings for missionary purposes. All this suggests that Litang has entered a new era — an era with orderly government, uninfluenced by Lamaism. In 1903 the Lamas ruled Siangcheng, and the only suzerain recognised was the Dalai Lama. Officials, traders, and agents of China were treated with the utmost barbarity; but now the Lamas are disbanded, Chinese garrisons keep order while her officials dispense justice, and even foreigners may travel through this large unsurveyed region in comparative safety. - In 1903 China's authority was ridiculed ; now few will question it or fail to recognise the advantages arising therefrom. It was much the same at Batang. In 1903 China was ignored or insulted by Lamas and Tusis (native chiefs) alike. Now the Lamasery is burnt and the order of the native chiefs extinguished for evei'. Moreover, China aims at ruling the turbulent people directly. The appointment of city elders, the erection of schools for the people, and attempts at colonisation indicate that China will endeavour for many years to assert her authority and inculcate her principles. It is hard to believe what the downfall of Lamaism means without having first experienced their studied insolence and irksome surveillance, and then arrive in 19 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE the same region and find their gilded Lamasery a mass of pitiable ruins, and their haughty colony represented by a few striking threadbare rogues. As I have said before, this merciless policy of China has been far-reach- ing in the Marches, but there is also strong reason for believing that the Lamas of Anterior Tibet are also discussing it with fear and trembling. And if proof is required I would refer to the fact that the time-honoured vigilance on the Ning Chingshan is apparently relaxed, and the Lhassa governed tribes of Sanai, Chantui, and Linkasi are by no means so anxious to try conclusions with China. As in Litang, China is depending not so much on the moral of the punitive expedition as on the continual presence of strong garrisons in the more turbulent centres. And it may not be without significance that the Nepaulese tribute has been renewed. The Chinese look upon this time-honoured custom as the iona fide oiFering of a subjected state, but the Nepaulese consider it a compensation for privileges allowed them in Tibet. However, the contention of the former is upheld by the following facts. The Embassy appears before the Emperor of China in the official robes of Nepaul, but, after receiving the highest titles and decorations of the Empire, they are required to traverse the whole breadth of China and Tibet in the dress of Chinese officials. Moreover, China not only demands that the journey to and from Peking be right across the Empire, but also detains them unconscionably long periods at the important centres en route. In fact, the whole thing is little better than a humiliating exhibition of a conquered race in the territory of its conquerors. The delays are also part of the bluff", inasmuch as the 20 A NEW ERA IN THE MARCHES journey from Katmandu to Peking, delayed trebly, gives the gullible Chinamen quite a wrong idea of the extraordinary vastness of the Empire. Of the ethical changes it is not easy to give an opinion. Both Litang and Batang, before the Chinese domination, were the most immoral towns of the Empire, owing no doubt partly to the shifting population of the Marches, — nomads, Chinese traders and officials, which favour a system of quasi-polandry, — and now that these causes are multiplied, there is no reason to believe that the immorality will not increase enormously. Some time ago H.E. Chao, with ethical reasons in view, gave instructions regarding dress reform and personal cleanli- ness. While those relating to face -washing, hair- combing, and the wearing of suitable underclothing have remained unheeded, the common and obnoxious custom of women of all ages parading the streets imperfectly clad has almost ceased in the towns at least. 21 VI TATSIENLU In dealing with the Mantze Marches, three places must be supremely important, and a fourth indirectly so, viz. Tatsienlu, Litang, Batang, and Siangcheng. Tatsienlu is at the extreme east of the Marches, and is a political and commercial centre of primary importance. It is the Ultima Thule of China and Tibet, where a thriving trade is done in the wares of both countries. Moreover, it is the residence of the chief of Chagla, a quasi- independent kinglet with jurisdiction in other states more distant from China. In the Guide Book of Tibet the following description is found : — " Tatsienlu was formerly known as the king- dom of Mao-nui . . . and was part of the Nan- chao confederacy, but later came under the Kokonor administration. In the 5th year of Yong-loh of the Ming Dynasty (1403 a.d.), the chief, Awang-Chiah-mu- tsan, came under the influence of civilisation and was made a second-class native official — Hsuen-uei-Shi-si — and controller of the tribes west of the Tong, tJ-fong, and Ning-iien-fu, with seals of office accompanying the patent of investiture. The present Dynasty, in consideration of the above, made the then chief a third- class native official, with power over three trading 22 TATSIENLU companies. New chiefs, chiliarchs, and centurions to the extent of fifty-six were created. This illustrious chief controls six subsidiary chiefs, one chiliarch, and forty-eight centurions." Tatsienlu, apart from being the centre of the Chagla region which borders on Lengpien, Shenpien, Tsali, Meilo, Litang, Chantui, Kata, Badi, Bawang, Meokong, Muping, and Yiitong, is also the starting-point of two main roads to Lhassa, and one also to the regions of Ta and Siaokin. ~ It will be seen from the above that Tatsienlu is an exceptionally fine base for Tibetan work, in which both settled and nomadic operations will be included. Regarding the former, Tatsienlu, with its present population of settled and visiting Chinese, Tibetans, and Sifan, could easily provide work for two missionaries ; and the contiguous districts of Kongyii, Yiitong, Tsali, Lengpien, Shenpien, and perhaps parts of Muping, would require at least two more. As the work develops, schools for children and training evangelists would need to be included, as well as a suitable centre for young missionaries, general secretary, and superintendent of Protestant churches in the Marches. And I have no doubt for such purposes Tatsienlu will be found by far the most suitable station. On the whole, I cannot but think that the strong point in Tibetan work will be systematic itineration from suitable centres. Judged by towns and villages the population of the Marches seems unimportant, but a closer inspection will persuade one that it is relatively large. Any time on the steppes vast heads of yak and horses may be seen grazing, but the nomads seem like the wind, " which bloweth where it listeth." However, 23 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE we may be sure that they come under one of the following classifications : — A. Tibetans with homes in the towns and large settlements, such as Tatsienlu, Hokow, Litang, Lamaya, Taopa, and Shomba. Or they may belong to B. The nomad chiefs and their subjects, such as the regions of Chuenteng, Chongsi Bonyag, Degombo, and Maoyang in the Litang Intendancy. Or they may be merely the animals of C. Travellers, traders, or Lamas from interior dis- tricts, who are slowly marching to and from the border centres. In all the above cases it will be apparent that the nomad may only be reached by the itinerant missionary who will adapt himself to the habits of the nomads, a people infallibly controlled by climate and season. They must, perforce, leave the grassless, ice-bound steppes in winter for the warm and sheltered valleys, but gradually climb higher and higher as climate and pastures invite. Now if Tatsienlu were to be the only station on the Tibetan border it would be a suitable centre for the Chagla nomads, but other centres would be more convenient as the work develops, Yingkwanchiai would form a good base from which the Chagla nomads could be reached and five hundred families besides. The relatively large settlements of Tongolo and Nangyangpa and two other important valleys are not more than a short day''s journey distant. About the centre of Chagla the missionary could easily reach Dawo, Tailing, Hokow, and Kinhopien in the direction of Meilo. The village of Yingkwanchiai, apart from its strategic value, is below 11,000 feet (?), and apparently very 24 Photo liyl [-S- 7- Daiiidson. FRONT OF CHINA INLAND MISSION HOUSE^ TATSIENLU. To face page 24. TATSIENLU healthy, with supplies of wood close at hand. Vegetables could be grown locally, but supplies would, as a rule, be brought from Tatsienlu, 160 li distant. Although inferior as regards population it is preferable to either Nanyangpa or Tongolo, because both these latter are in corners of districts. Nangyangpa is also too high, and the latter, apart from a high altitude, is a most un- healthy spot, being at the lower end of a bog. There is another centre from whichTongolo andYingkwanchiai may be worked, which will be discussed under Hokow. Hokow is situated at the west end of Chagla, and controls a very important) ferry over the Yalong. All the interior officials and large caravans of merchants and travellers must perforce pass through, and remain some time in, its vicinity. For instance, once in three years two Ambans go into Lhassa. with enormous trains, and once in three years two come out laden with the wares of Tibet. And during the same period the various officials, ordinary and extraordinary, of all grades proceed to their posts and retire when their term is completed. Hokow commands four roads: one east through Chagla to Tatsienlu ; another west to Litang ; a third north to Chantui ; and one south to Meilo. It has a population of about 300 souls ; 200 on the Chagla side, and 100 under Litang. The valley east (to the foot of Kazhila) will have a population of 100 families, including the senior Headman of Chagla. On the west road, apart from the paltry settlement of Makehtsong, there is nothing of importance until the valley of Sigolo, ninety li distant, is reached. This settlement, with Lamas, will give about 600 souls. Down the Yalong there is a road, but unless Meilo, 26 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE four days distant, and the occasional low and warm ravines coming in from the Litang watershed, have something of importance to reveal, the population of the southern road will not affect the value of Hokow as a centre. Up the river it is very different. The population from Hokow to Chantui, ninety li away, is estimated at 100 families. This Chantui is directly under the Lhassa Government. The population of the region according to Rockhill's quotations is as follows : — Upper Chantui, 432 families ; Middle Chantui, 200 families ; and Lower Chantui, 340 families. This estimation of 972 families I consider absurdly low, unless the " family " really means a small clan. If the latter the population will number about 10,000 souls. Hokow, apart from the somewhat important floating population, and excluding Yingkwanchiai, would not readily reach more than 400 families. But if the latter district is included, together with the nomads of Sigold, the district might with systematic working touch 1100 families. The following distances may be of service : — Hokow to Yingkwanchiai . . . . E. 190 li Hokow to Sigolo W. 130 „ Hokow to S. Chantui N. 90 „ Hokow to Meilo S. 300 „ (.'') The altitude of Hokow is about the same as Batang, and the climate is equally warm and genial. At Hokow fine vegetables could be grown, but everything else would be more conveniently obtained in Tatsienlu, 330 li away. The telegraph office just opened will enable any one at Hokow to put himself in communica- tion with the outside world when necessary. 26 VII BATANG, THE LAST TOWN IN CHINA Batang is a village at the extreme west of the Mantze Marches, with a population of 400 families. West of Litang, 620 li, it is the centre of an important district, partly administered from Peking, and partly from Lhassa. In my diary of 1 903 the city is thus described : — " Batang lies at the foot of high mountains, in what at first seems to be an irregular hollow. The hills and plain are composed mainly of tenacious conglomerate, capable of producing wonderful crops when worked by tools and watered by the irrigation drains of the farmer. The plain slopes down to the Chihtsuen River, which hugs the mountain on the west, and is divided into two equal halves by the waters of the Taso River. On the north side the fields are burdened twice a year with a rich harvest, but on the south side a small thorn bush alone flourishes in the unwatered soil. The grass on the hills is poor : the same thorn bush and a few straggling pines endure alike the drought of summer and the snows of winter. The town is a large one for these parts, distinctly Oriental in appearance, and with very little retail business. The main thoroughfare, 700 yards in length, 27 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE is wide and well paved, and from it branch out many important side streets, and a perfect maze of alleys besides. The houses, square and substantial, are built of mud and the tenacious formation mentioned above. Two storeys are the rule, but three are not uncommon. The roofs are flat, and a notched log is the only form of stairway known. A magnificent Lamasery, west of the town, with gold or gilded roofs and spires, contains 1500 Lamas, who pay little attention to either Peking or Lhassa. (It is called the Tinglinsze, and is now, 1907, a mass of ruins.) Another fine building to the right of the town, with much gold on roof and spires, and surrounded by 600 Mani windmills, is the home of the Batang chief." The Batang district, according to the Tibetan Guide Book, formerly came under the Lhassa" Government, but in the 4ith year of Yongcheng (1727 a.d.) bound- ary stones were set up on the Ningching, Sisongkong, and Tahla plateaux; territory east of the aforesaid stones coming under the Peking administration, and that west under Lhassa. "In the 7th year of the same reign a Chief and Deputy -Chief with numerous Headmen (Tibetan Sinao) were set up. The popula- tion is (?) 37,360, of which 9480 are Lamas. The yearly tax is 3200 oz. of silver." Now intelligent Chinese, as a rule, give the popula- tion of the above-mentioned region as 7000 families. This will agree with the Guide Book, and also tallies with the Chinese accounts of the regions between the Kinsha and Siangcheng. But so far, regions visited by the writer ionly account for 1100 families, thus : — 28 100 families 100 )) 200 JJ 200 3> 100 }} 400 - 1100 families BATANG, THE LAST TOWN IN CHINA Sanpaj Bomij East of Batang Chihtsuen, North of Batang .... Langto, Maoto Kangto, Lango, Mangsi, North of Chihtsuen .... Chupalong (district on Kinshachiang) . Bamutang (Border district) .... Batang, city and environs .... Total of population in above districts But this would mean a population of nearly 6000 families in the region south of Batang. I give the following reasons for not seriously disputing the great discrepancy : — 1. The Roman Catholics have been working in this region (Yarikong and Yanching) for nearly half a century. 2. The Tibetan Guide Book, discussing a road from Batang to Chongtien in Yunnan, says of this region, known as Ruhyii (really Rongmi ?) : " Ruhyij, 310 li from Batang, is a very fertile region with a warm genial climate. The village (?) is on the border of several districts, and has a population of 300 families governed by a Tibetan official. (Sinao) Atuengi is eight days' distant, and Tehrong four. The local Lamasery has 300 Lamas." 3. The statements of Chinese and Tibetans, which would tend to confirm the above. A report is quite common that during the recent embroglio at Batang 5000 families fled from this region into Anterior Tibet, of which 2000 have returned. Regarding the missing 3000, the Chinese have lied so systematically about depopulation that until further proof is forthcoming I cannot think of any great shrinkage in the population, and shall be much surprised if the required 6000 20 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE families are not a real factor in the missionaries' programme. But apart from the Batang district, altogether it must be remembered that there are contiguous regions under Lhassa which must be worked from this centre, viz. : Sanai, with a population of probably 3000 families or 12,000 souls Chiangka, „ „ 2000 „ 8000 „ Linkasi, „ ,, 1500 „ 6000 „ Draya, „ ,, 6000 „ 20,000 „ This estimation, based on Chinese information, etc., if at all correct, gives 11,500 families or 46,000 souls. As Batang is the last town in China, and a centre for both Anterior Tibet and the Marches, the floating population will always be large and important, and it is not unlikely that in the near future it will be the capital of the Marches if not of a large portion of Anterior Tibet. Until lately, the native population of Batang was controlled by a Tibetan chief and his deputy. At the conclusion of the late war they were deemed guilty of high treason and executed, their families being taken captive to Chengtu. The head chief, whose ancestors were from Yunnan, a Chinese named Lo, was a second official of the Chinese Empire, and a third-class native ruler. His daughter, a pretty maiden of sixteen, is in captivity in the Commissary's residence. She seems quite happy, and it is rumoured that the official has proposed making her his daughter-in-law, but the mother, now a captive in Chengtu, declines the honour. At present the government of Batang is directly under a fifth-class Chinese official, who must perforce hear and decide cases through an interpretei", a method 30 BATANG, THE LAST TOWN IN CHINA which practically leaves the community in the hands of dissolute and untrustworthy half-castes. The climate of Batang is described as "genial.'" In August and September it is hot and stifling, with swarms of pestiferous flies in the daytime, and mosquitoes, bed-bugs, lice, and fleas at night. In the winter snow seldom, if ever, falls, and the cold is comparable to that of Chengtu. Water boils at 195 '6° F., but the atmospheric pressure varies greatly, 1° F., or an equivalent of 500 feet in altitude, being quite common. As in Litang, hot springs abound, and have a therapeutic reputation second only to those of the former place. Thirty years ago a severe earthquake devastated the district, and one wonders if the high, thin, mud walls of the ordinary houses may not be fated to go tumbling to ruins any night. But apart from such outbreaks of nature they are roomy, comfort- able, and enduring, and with little expense might be turned into suitable foreign dwellings. The food procurable at Batang is well suited to foreigners. Beef, mutton, game, eggs, and milk may be had daily, and while the fields produce oats, wheat, maize, barley, and buckwheat, the gardens abound with cabbage, turnips, pumpkins, onions, carrots, and potatoes. Fruits are not so numerous, but peaches, pears, grapes, and walnuts may be had in their season. I know of no domestic animal which does not live and thrive in Batang. Dysentery, typhus, and typhoid seem to be the great scourges, but might be largely modified by attention to the water-supply, which all comes from the Taso River through an irrigation drain. The town is well in the centre of a carefully manured area, 31 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE and water passing through any one of the above drains is soon highly polluted. But to make matters really serious, some genius has arranged that a drain should run right down the street, intq which a stream of water is directed night and morning. When one sees the filth and refuse which daily pollutes the water every- where, dysentery, typhus, and typhoid are no mystery. S2 VIII LITANG, THE HIGHEST CITY IN THE WORLD LiTANG is a Chinese and Tibetan village nestling in the comer of an enormous plain, and is the capital of a nomadic district of the same name. Situated at an altitude of nearly 14,000 feet (B.P. 199-4°; Temp. 60° F.) it may perhaps claim to being the highest city in the world. The Guide Book to Tibet gives the following information regarding this city : — " Litang is 650 li from Tatsienlu and 520 from Batang. ... In the 7th year of Yong-cheng (1730 a.d.) China first began to direct the government, and appointed native chiefs to rule in Litang, Washu, Chongsi, Chliehteng, Maoyang, and other places ranging in rank from 4 B. to 6 C, the titles being hereditary. The population is roughly estimated at 40,000 laymen and 3849 Lamas." In the town and environs the following figures, though based on official information, are given tentatively : — Lamas, servants, and students in Lamasery . 6,000 Tibetans in immediate vicinity .... 2,000 Chinese, Tibetan concubines of same, and children 1,000 Nomads on plain and hills around . . 1,000 Soldiers, servants, and concubines of same . 1,000 Total population based on official information 10,000 33 D THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE Litang, notwithstanding its dreary plain, rigorous climate, filthy street, and villainous Lamasery, must always be of great importance to China. It is in the first place on the official road to Lhassa, and also the natural centre of some 5000 Tibetan families in the south. Then the nomads to the north, probably 3200 families, find it their only centre, and traders from Chantui, Sanai, and even Derge visit it in large numbers. The population of the district I give with some hesitation as follows : — Nomads, Maoyang, Chuehteng, Bonyag, etc. ,Chongsi 13,000 Local population — Chinese Tibetans, half-castes, etc. 10,000 Siangcheng, Kongkalin, Taopa, etc 16,000 Shomba, Molashih, Tsosang 10,000 Chinese officials, soldiers, etc., in above regions . 1,000 Total population of region formerly under Litang, Tusze or Chiefs 60,000 Litang is likely to remain an important military centre. It is about the jniddle of the Marches. In the south are the insolent tribesmen of Taopa and Siangcheng ; to the south-east the semi-independent region of Meilo, with large and turbulent Lamaseries. Hordes of the independent Chantui, and perhaps also the incorrigible Sanai, threaten on the north, and the local opulent Lamasery will not be slow to take advantage of inefficient administration. From the above it will be seen that the Chinese official, trader, or colonist is only safe as long as China has an army on the spot strong enough to intimidate her relentless and dissatisfied " barbarians." There is also a possibility that Litang will remain an influential religious centre. The Lamas at present number about 3000, but to this must be added servants, 34 LITANG students, and pilgrims. Now that the Batang Lamasery is a heap of ruins and that of Siangcheng a Chinese barracks, Litang seems to have no serious rival, and if the Lamas behave themselves they may profit immeasurably by the widespread suffering of their unfortunate brethren in other places. The above will all have a direct bearing on the commercial status of Litang. Food, clothing, wares, and luxuries for officials, soldiers, and Tibetans must all be brought in from Tatsienlu and retailed here, while a large export trade in gold, drugs, hides, and Tibetan commodities may be expected. Until recently the government of the Litang region was semi-independent. Apart from the nomad chiefs mentioned above, the political power was in the hands of two native chiefs of high rank, the offices and titles of whom were hereditary. In their ancestral halls, just outside the village of Litang, they jointly controlled the tribes of Taopa, Kongkalm, Siangcheng, and the regions east of Hokow. Although for many years defied by the southern tribes, and intimidated by the Lamas locally, it was not until the murder of the Imperial Commissioner Feng at Batang that they showed open signs of insubordination by delaying the transport service. When the generals of China arrived and demanded Ulag the chiefs were " not at home" for a month ; then sufficient animals would not arrive, and finally the ancient Courier service was not only arbitrarily abolished hy their orders, but trains of ammunition, provisions, and accoutrements were left to spoil on the roadside. Finally, important despatches were destroyed, and companies of natives and arms were sent to the assistance of the Taopa and Siangcheng rebels. 35 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE When the Chinese returned victorious, the head chief had fled into Tibet with his family and belongings, and threats and promises of rewards alike failed to un- earth him. His colleague remaining at his post in Litang was taken prisoner, with the understanding that his case should be tried at Chengtu ; but the triumphal procession had not gone far when it was known that the scion of royalty had taken poison, and before Hochuka was reached he had nothing to fear from earthly justice or injustice. Shortly afterwards, a proclamation by H.E. Chao, Warden of the Marches, abolished the ancient order of chiefs existing in Litang for ever. The northern sub-chiefs remained unchanged ; the immediate region of Litang, laymen and priest, came under the Commissary of Litang ; and Siangcheng and Taopa are yet under martial law. Just what the future form of government will be is not easy to say; but we may be almost certain that the Lamas, humbled and warned by the fate of Batang and Sampeiling, will not by influence or action complicate the Chinese programme; The street or business part of Litang is about' 300 yards long, narrow, and alarmingly filthy. The flat- roofed wooden houses are not more than ten feet high, and jumbled together in such a manner that only one or two alleys, not more than two feet wide, exist in the settlement. Somewhere behind are stables and cesspools, which, drenched with rain one day and broiled in the sun the next, warn one that typhus in the future may call for a heavy tribute. At night the inhabitants use both street and roofs as latrines, and trust to the wild dogs or rain to cleanse them ! Outside the city, on three sides at least, besides the reeking 36 LITANG slaughter-house grounds, are ancient heaps of manure, refuse, and such various assortments of filth that one's very clothes seem to be permeated with it. Where it all comes from, and why the whole population is not swept away by some weird plague, is a mystery. The people of Litang seem robust and healthy, but foreigners should remember that the sudden changes, of almost daily occurrence, will seriously menace those with weak chests and poor circulations. Headaches, vomiting, vertigo, palpitation, and depression may make residence in Litang impossible for some time ; and no doubt prolonged residence at an altitude of 14,000 feet will more or less seriously affect the frames and minds of all. Although the climate of Litang is so rigorous, a bright sunshine even in winter is rarely absent, but the nights are Arctic beyond doubt. It is then that the Chinese tell of frost-bite, pleurisy, pneumonia, rheumatism, and kidney complaints. Snow falls most abundantly during February and March. During the spring thaw a malady characterised by swelling in the feet, hands, abdomen, and other parts is very common, and it is rather uncomfortable to learn also that typhus has made large demands on the Chinese soldiery. The writer finds little difficulty in living at Litang, although indigestion, dysentery, pleurisy, and rheumatism have made their demands in other places. On such an elevated plateau, bleak and unproductive, many peculiar problems confront the missionary. The sudden changes of summer land the intense cold of winter would call for good food and unlimited quantities of suitable fuel; while the insanitary conditions of the city demand means for sterilising 37 THE MARCHES OF THE MANTZE everything. Although meats, fish, game, butter, and milk abound, eggs, rice, flour, meal, tsamba, vegetables, and fruits must be brought in from Tatsienlu, ten days distant. And it is the same with tea, sugar, salt, and almost every necessary and luxury of life. Wood and charcoal come from districts seventy li away, and are very expensive. Cow manure fires may be endured by some, but wood for building, furniture, and ordinary g^ EDWARD STANFORD for The China Inland Mission. Emp: The orthography is that recently and finally adopted by the Chinese Imperial Post Ofllce, and it will therefore supersede all earlier Maps and Atlases. The size of each page is 13 inches x 9 inches. The smaller Provinces have a page each, the larger Provinces an opening of two pages. Every possible source, both British and Foreign, has been drawn upon in preparation of this Atlas, and every station with resident workers of all Protestant Missionary Societies, British, American, and Continental, is marked in red. In addition to a carefully prepared Index of every place, an Index of Mission Stations, arranged according to Provinces, showing every Society at work in each station, is included. A large edition is being printed so that the selling price may be as small as possible. It is not possible at the date this notice goes to press to definitely state the price, but particulars will gladly be sent upon application. Published by the China Inland Mission, London, Philadelphia, Toronto, Melbourne, and Shanghai, t Also by Morgan &» Scott, Ltd., in London, England, I The Ch1n^^^ ^**^^ ^^ MARSHALL 1 ne v^nmese broomhall, b.a. ElY^'Pirc* Preface by Rt. Hon. Sir ^ ERNEST SATOW, A General and G.C.M.G. Missionary Survey. 500 pages of letterpress ; 56 por- traits of Eminent Missionaries 7s. 6d. net. and other illustrations. Some of tJie Personal and Press Notices. Mr. Eugene Stock says: "I cannot conceive any book more complete in its own way than Mr. Marshall Broomhall's Chinese Empire." Dr. A. P. Pierson says: " Before carefully examining the work we had no conception of its value as a sort of encyclopaedia of valuable and reliable information on the Celestial Empire." Dr. Jas. L. Barton, Secretary of the American Board, says: "I know of no book which has been written in recent years of more value to the student of Missions in China than this volume. It is the one that stands in my mind pre-eminently first." Dr. James L. Maxwell, of the English Presbyterian Mission, says in Medical Missions : "We know of no work which gathers up and reveals to us, as this does, the fruitage of the last hundred years of Mission work in China." Mr. Robert P. Wilder, Travelling Secretary of the S.V.M.U., says: ' ' We know of no book which gives as accurate, recent, and complete information concerning the Chinese Empire within such short space." The Bible in the World says: "For years to come The Chinese Empire will remain a standard book. It is indispensable to any serious student of Foreign Missions in China." The Royal Geographical Society's Journal says: ' ' Although written specially from the point of view of Missions, this forms an excellent general description of the Chinese Empire." The Missionary Record of the United Free Church of Scotland says: "Upwards of fifty portraits, other illustrations, and excellent indices, enhance the value of the volume, which is simply the best presentation in existence of the work of Missions in China." Published by the China Inland Mission, London, Philadelphia, Toronto, Melbourne, and Shanghai. Also by Morgan &• Scott, Ltd., in London, England. 2 By Mrs. Howard Taylor Pastor Hsi : Confucian Scholar and Christian. The two volames in one. Bound in Cloth and Gold, 3s. 6d. net., or separately at Is. 6d. net. By Marshall Broomhall, B.A. Martyred Missionaries of the CLM. "It stands altogether apart, sacrifice." — Z!fee Spectator. 2s. 6d. net. Completing 10,000. 2 Maps, 60 Portraits, 25 Illustrations. Plain tales of heroism and self- $1.00. In MemOriam : with six Portraits of ,_-, . Mr. Hudson Taylor, J* Hudson Taylor, i^om isso-iws. "Sure of a welcome from readers interested in Missionary enterprise." — Scotsman. Is. 6d. net. 50 cents. Pioneer Work in Hunan: A Story of 30 Years' Pioneer Toil and Hard- ship. With Portraits, Illustrations, and Maps. by ADAM DORWARD ' and Others. 2s.net. 1^ ceats post free. "The Rev. P. B. Meyer says : "Let Our young men and women read this book and it will set them on fire." China's MiUions. 71.?'£^'"'^ Id. monthly. Is. 6d. per annum. 50 cents per annum. Published by the China Inland Mission, London, Philadelphia, Toronto, Melbourne, and Shanghai. Also by Morgan &» Scott, Ltd., in London, England. 3 CHINA INLAND MISSION FOUNDED 1865. Founder: The Late J. HUDSON TAYLOR, M.R.C.S. General Director : D. E. HOSTE. OBJECT. THE China Inland Mission was formed under a deep sense of China's pressing need, and with an earnest desire, constrained by the love of Christ and the hope of His coming, to obey the command to preach the Gospel to every creature. CHARACTER. The Mission is Evangelical, and embraces members of all the leading denominations of Christians. METHODS. Duly qualified candidates are accepted without restriction as to denomination, provided they are sound in all the funda- mental truths of the faith. All missionaries go forth in dependence upon God for supplies, without any guarantee of income from the Mission. The Mission is entirely supported by the free-will offerings of God's people, no personal solicitation or collections being authorised. No more is expended than is thus received, going into debt being considered inconsistent with the principle of entire dependence upon God.i PROGRESS. On 1st January 1907 there were in connection with the Mission, 875 missionaries and associates (including wives), 988 paid Native Helpers, i.e. Chinese Pastors, Assistant Preachers, Chinese School Teachers, Colporteurs, and Bible Women ; also 443 unpaid Chinese helpers, 16,969 communicants^ 24,669 having been baptized from the commencement. There are 204 stations, 719 out-stations, 915 chapels, 520 organised churches, scholars (boarding) 1501, (day) 2157; 45 dispensaries, 106 opium refuges, and 9 hospitals. " Cbina'S /iliiUiOnS," the organ of the Mission, pub- lished monthly. Illustrated, id. ; is. 6d. or 50 cents per annum, post free. Headquarters of the Mission, LONDON . . . Newington Green, N. PHILADELPHIA . 235 W. School Lane, Oermantown. TORONTO . . . 507 Church Street. MELBOURNE . . 267 Collins Street. All donations and other correspondence should he addressed to, the Secretary, at any of the above addresses.