Wvt Cornell University WB Ubrary The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924075428817 CORNELL UNIVEHSITV LIBRARY 3 1924 075 428 817 CEYLON IN THE JUBILEE YEAR WITH AN ACCOU>JT OF THE PROGRESS MADE SINCE 1803, AND OF THE PRESENT CONDITION OF ITS AGRICULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISES; THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR WILLIAM H. GREGORY, K.C.M.G., GOVERNOR (.)F CEYLON: ERECTED BY THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND IN C0MME3I0EATI0N OF THE MANY BEiJEFITS ' CONFERRED BY HIM UPON THE COLONY DCRING HIS ADMINISTRATION OF THE GOVERNMENT FROM 1872 TO 1877. (See page 406). CEYLON IN THE JUBILEE YEAR WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS MADE SINCE 1803, AND OF THE PRESENT CONDITION OF ITS AGRICULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISES; JOHN FERGUSON THIRD EDITION ASIAN EDUCATIONAL SERVICES NEW DELHI • MADRAS • 1994 ASIAN EDUCATIONAL SERVICES *31, HAUZ KHAS VILLAGE, NEW DLEHI-110016. CABLE: ASIA BOOKS, PH. : 660187, 668594, FAX: 011-6852805 *5 SRIPURAM FIRST STREET, MADRAS-600014 ASlAr vs ^n F35 ld%i^^ f 1, Price :Rs. 295 First Published: London, 1887 AES Reprint: New Delhi, 1994 ISBN: 8 1-206-0963-8 Published by J. Jetley for ASIAN EDUCATIONAL SERVICES C-2/ 1 5, SDA New Delhi- 1 1 1 6 Processed by Gaurav Jetley for APEX PUBLICATION SERVICES New Delhi-1 10016 Printed at Gayatri Offset Press Noida, Distt. Ghaziabad (U.P.) ii CEYLON IN THE JUBILEE YEAR." fFITM ANACCOVNT OF THE PROGRESS MADE SINCE 1803, AND OF THE PRESENT CONDITION OF ITS AGHI- GTJLTURAL AND COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISES ; THE EESOUECES AWAITING DEVELOPMENT BY CAPITALISTS; AND THE UNEQUALLED AnRACTIONS OFFERED TO VISITORS. WITH MUCH USEFUL STATISTICAL INPOEMATION, SPECIALLY PEEPAEED MAPS, AND SUMEEOUS ILLUSTEATIONS. JOHN FEEGUSON, Co-Editor of" Ceylon Obaerver,^' " Tropical Agricvltuiist," " Ceylon Hajidboolc,'' d'c. Life Member of tlii Ceylon Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society ; Honorary Corresponding Secretary of the Royal Colonial InstitiUe. " Embassies from regions far remote : * * ♦ * From India and the Golden Chersonese, And utmost Indian Isle Tapbobane." — Milton. THIRD EDITION ; REVISED, ENLARGED, AND BROUGHT DOWN TO DATE. Satibcn : JOHN HADDON AND CO., 3, Bouveeie Steeet. A. M. & J. FEEGUSON. 1887. \All rights reserved.] THE EIGHT HONOUBABLE SIR WILLIAM H. GEEGOEY, K.C.M.G., WHO WAS QOVERNOB OP THE ISLAND OF CEYLON AND THE DEPENDENCIES THEREOF FROM 1872 TO 1877 ; THIS LITTLE VOLUME IS EESPECTFDLLY IN THIS HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY'S JUBILEE TEAE; AS A SLIGHT TESTIMONY TO THE BENEFICENCE OF HIS ADMINISTRATION IN CONDUCING TO THE ADVANCEMENT OF CEYLON AND THE WELL-BEING OF THE COMMUNITY, AND MORE ESPECIALLY IN PEOMOIIKO GOOD FEELING AND MUTUAL RESPECT AMONG THE DIFFERENT CLASSES AND RACES REPRESENTED IN ITS VAEIED POPULATION ; BY HIS OBEDIENT AND HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOE. PKEFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. It is necessary to explain that the basis of the following Volume was an account of Ceylon (with accompanying Map) prepared in April, 1883, as a Paper to be read before the members of the Eoyal Colonial Institute. It was, however, received too late for the day fixed, and accordingly was pub- lished in book form, under the title of " Ceylon in 1883," by Messrs. Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, and Eivington. A second edition, under the auspices of the same firm, was issued withili a few months of the first, entitled, " Ceylon in 1884." This latter work has now been out of print for some time, and the author has been frequently urged to arrange for a third issue. It is appropriate that this revised and considerably enlarged edition should appear in the year of the " Queen's Jubilee," as giving some account of what is the most important, whether in population or wealth, of Her Majesty's Crown Colonies, and bring- ing the information, so far as it goes, down to the present date. Besides large additions to nearly all the chapters — more especially to those on Social and Legislative Progress, on Agricultural and Plant- ing Industries, and on the future Government of Ceylon — a new chapter has been introduced dealing with the Life, Customs, Caste, and Occupations of the natives. Additions have also been made to the Appendix, more especially in reference to Missions, Caste, the Tea Industry, Statistical Information, vi Preface to the Third Edition. and the re-publication of recent letters of Mr. A. M. Ferguson, describing the Pearl Fisheries and ancient Kuins of Ceylon. This edition also includes a second Map, prepared to show the Eailway system of the Island, and it contains over a score of additional Illustrations. Apart from this being a Jubilee volume, it affords gratification to the author that he is enabled to dedicate the present edition to one whom he con- siders to have been in many respects a model administrator for a Crown Colony — a gentleman who, as Her Majesty's representative, did more to smooth away the angularities peculiar to colonial life in the tropics, and to promote good under- standing between the governing and the various ranks, classes, and castes of the governed, than any other living Governor of Ceylon. The author refers to the Eight Honourable Sir William H. Gregory, K.C.M.G., who, when he . left its shores, did not, like nearly all previous Governors, remove his in- terests and practically forget the existence of Ceylon, but who, as a private individual, has since devoted capital and time to the development of its resources, while he still retains the deepest personal interest in all that concerns the welfare of the Island and its people. A full index, which will be found sufficient for ready reference, has been added to the present edition. In conclusion, the author bespeaks the forbearance of Ceylon readers, considering that he has had no opportunity of seeing the main portion of the proof- sheets in the short time available for the printing and publication of the book many thousands of miles away from his adopted home. Colombo, Ceylon. June 17, 1887. COEKIGENDA. [The fact that the author was unahle to see the greater portion of the pages when passiug through the press will account for the number of corrections noted here.] Page 2, last line bitt one, for " C.E.I," after Mr. Burrows' name, substitute " CCS." (Ceylon Civil Service). Page 3, sixth line from hottom, for " all was " at end of line, substitute " everything was." Page 4, at end of second paragraph, after " Tyre," read " of Eastern and Southern Asia." Page 5, fourth line from top, for " Kopok " read " Knpok." Page 10, in table, opposite " Military -Imperial Share," substitute "£160,000" for "£80,000." The word "nil" should appear under " 1796-1815," opposite " Post Office Savings Banks," "Exchange and Deposit Bank Of&ces," " Volume of business," " Government note issue," " No. of newspapers despatched." Page 12, wider engraving, foj " MahavelUgange, at Gangaru)ta," read " Mahavelligangn, at Gfingarujca." Page 24, under engraving, for " Topaui " read " Topari." Page 34, seventh line from top, for " Stuart " read " Stewart " Mackenzie. Page 45, last line after " 60,000 Sinhalese " add " and Tamils." Page 46, eleventh line from top, for " 2odi-ella " read '• Fodi-eUa." Page 49, sixteenth line from top, for " villages " substitute "district!." Page 51, the paper, referred to in the first note to this page, on the " coconut " has not yet been read before the Asiatic Society. Page 54, Jiftlt line from top, for " umbracolifera " read " umbracu- lifera." Page 55, first line, for " papuaa " read " papaws." Page 59, second paragraph. It has been shown by Dr. Trimeu, of the Koyal Botanic Garden, since this was written, that there is no rehable evidence of the Arabs having introduced eoflee into India and Ceylon, and it is more probable that the seed was first brought to the island by the Dutch towards the end of the seventeenth century. Page 68, in sui-heading, read "cacao" for "cocoa," Page 72, ninth line, for "directed " read " diverted." Page 82, fourth line, for " no attentive aid," read " no attention." Page 94, nineteenth line, for " forming," read " and have formed." Page 121, last line, for " Trimer" read " Trimen," Page 123, first line, delete comma after " Cyoas " ; delete "a" in " cocoanut " in seventh, ninth, and eleventh lines. Page 129, note, see Mr. A. M, Ferguson's "Letters from Anurddha- puia " in appendix. Page 130, second note, see Letters by A. M. Ferguson from "Pearl Fishery of 1887 " in appendix. Page 132, eleventh line from bottom, for " Carropus " read " Canopus." Page 169, last line, for Appendix " VII," read " VIII," Page 257, Add to the List of Benefactors — T. E. B. Skinner, Ceylon Civil Service, for his work in improving the Postal and 'Tele- graphic Service of the Colony, CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. PAST HISTORY. PAGE The Ophir and Tarsliish of Solomon — Northern and Southern Indian dynasties — Chinese invasion and connection with the island in ancient and modern times — Portnguese and Dutch rule — British annex- ation 1 CHAPTEE II. THE ISLAND IN 1796-1815, AND SEVENTY YEARS LATER. Extent and topograxihioal features — Condition of the island previous to and after ninety years of British rule con- trasted . 8 CHAPTER III. SOCIAL PROGRESS IN NINETY YEARS. Population — Buildings — Postal and Telegraphic services — Savings-bank — Banking and Currency — Police— Mili- tary defence — Medical and Educational achievements — Laws and Crime . . ... viii Contents. CHAPTEB IV. PAGE LEGISLATIVE AND GENERAL IMPROVEMENT UNDER THE RTFLE OF SUCCESSIVE BRITISH GOVERNORS — THE NEED OF PRO- MOTING CO-OPERATION AND GOOD FEELING BETWEEN THE DIFFERENT CLASSES AND RACES . . . .33 CHAPTER V. NATIVE AGRICULTURAL AND MANUFACTURING INTERESTS. Paddy (rice) cultivation — Cinnamon — Coconut, Palmyra, Kitul, Arecanut, and other Palms — Essential oils — Tobacco — Cotton — Sugar-cane — Other Fruit-trees and Vegetables — Natural Pasture — Local Manufactures 42 CHAPTER VI. THE ORIGIN AND RISE OF THE PLANTING INDUSTRY. Coffee introduced by Arabs — First systematically cultivated by the Dutch in 1740 — Extensive development in 1837 — Highest level of prosperity reached in 1868-70 — Appearance of Leaf Disease in 1869 — Its disastrous eii'ects .......... SjD CHAPTER VII. NEW PRODUCTS. Tea — Cinchona^ — Cacao (or Cocoa) — Cardamoms — India- rubber — Liberian Coffee, &c. ..... 69 CHAPTER VIII. PRESENT POSITION OF AGRICULTURAL ENTERPRISE, LOC^L INDUSTRIES AND FOREIGN TRADE. Exports of last decade — The Plumbago trade — Gold and Iron — Native industries generally flourishing — Tea especially and Cinchona will make up for the deficiency in Coffee 85 Contents. ix CHAPTER IX. PAGE ■WHAT THE PLANTING INDUSTRY HAS DONE FOE THE MOTHER- COUNTRY. Eecent years of depression considered — Planting profits absorbed in the past by Home capitalists — Absence of reserves of local wealth — The accumulated profits of past years estimated . ..... 90 CHAPTER X. WHAT THE PLANTING INDUSTRY HAS DONE FOB CEYLON. Population nearly doubled — Revenue quadrupled — Trade expanded sixteen to twenty fold — Employment afforded to natives — An El Dorado for the Indian immigrant — Coffee in the past, as Tea in the future, the-mainstay of the island — Material progress in the-. Planting districts 96 CHAPTER XI. PRESENT PROSPECTS FOR CAPITALISTS IN CEYLON. Ceylon still a good field for investment — Its freedom from atmospheric disturbances — Shipping conveniences at the new harbour of Colombo — Low freights — Cheap and imrivalled means of transport — Large tracts available for tea and other tropical culture — Openings for young men with capital — High position taken by the Ceylon Planter — Facilities for personal inspection of investments 105 CHAPTER XII. ATTRACTIONS FOR THE TRAVELLER AND VISITOR. The voyage a pleasure trip — Historical monuments, Vege- tatiuii, t'tc. — Variety of climate — Colombo, the capital — K;imly, the Highland capital — Kuwara Eliya, the S.iii;itariuui — The Horton Plains — Adam's Peak — Uva ;'!iil it.-i li>ii;,'-delaj'ed rail way — Ancient cities of Anurad- ■ ;ijiuva and Polonnaruwa — Occasional Pearl fisheries — i'iubablu expense of a visit to Ceylon — The alleged inconveniences of tropical life ... . llo X Contents. CHAPTEB XIII. FAOG THE REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE OF CEYLON. Chief sources of Revenue : Grain and Customs dues, sales of Crown Land, and Railway profits . . / . 133 CHAPTER XIV. WHAT ITS GOVERNMENT BAN DO FOR CEYLON. Aetivft and independent Administrators required — The obstruction to progress offered in Downing Street — Railway extsnsion and Graving Dock at Colombo urgently called for — Law reform needed — Technical, industrial, and agricultural education needs encou- raging — ^The/Buddhist Temporalities question^Fiscal Reform : Roa,d tax, Excise laws, Salt monopoly. Food taxes. Customs djities — The Duke of Buckingham's Ceylon and Southern India railway project— Ceylon and India — Waste Crown Lands ..... 137 CHAPTER XV. SOCI.U, LIFE AND CUSTOMS. Social Life and Customs of the natives of Ceylon — How little colonists may know of vUiage life — Domestic servants — Caste restrictions — Curious occupations among the people — Sinhalese Philanthropists, Messrs. De Soysa and Rajapakse ". . . . . . 152 CHAPTER XVI. CONCLUSION. Relation and importance of Ceylon to India — Progress of Christianity and education — ttatistics of Population — Need of Reform in the Legislative Council, and sketch of a scheme for the election of unof&cial members — Loyalty of People to British Rule, as evinced during Royal visits — The Celebration of the Jubilee of Her Majesty th:; Queen-Empress .... 106 Contents. xi APPENDICES. PAGE I. — Shooting Trips in Ceylon and a description of tlie 1 -nliaEt Kraal held at Labugama for the entertain- the Princes Albert Victor and George of «e2 179 II. — Extracts from Major Forbes's " Eleven Years in Ceylon " : (1) The ancient capital, Anuradhapura ; (2) A \dsit to Kandy — The moral laws of Gautama JBuddha ; (3) Kandyan festivals 203 III. — Progress of Christianity and Illustrations of the Progress of Mission-work in Ceylon : (1) American Mission ; (2) Church Mission ; (3) Baptist Mission ; (4) Wesleyan Mission ; (5) A Sketch of Missionary Work 23G IV. — Caste in Ceylon . . 251 V. — Lists of the British Governors of Ceylon, Chief Justices, Commanders of Troops, Executive Council- lors, and prominent non-oificial Public Benefactors . 252 VI. — The principal statistical results of the last Census of Ceylon, taken in February, 1881 262 VII. — Table of the staple Imports of Ceylon from 1837 to 188G 269 VIII. — Summary of Information regarding Ceylon . . 270 IX. — Ceylon and its Planting Industries . . . . 318 X. — The Prospects of England's chief Tropical Colony . 328 XI. — Adam's Peak and its Shadow . . . . 337 XII.— Tea in Ceylon — Planters' Association Pamphlet . 3i4 XIII. — Works of Public Interest executed by the De Soysa family . . . . . . .' • . .350 XIV.— Benefactions of S. D. A. Pi,ajapakse, Esq., Mudaliyar of the Governor's Gate, and J.P. for the Island . . 352 XV. — Two Genealogical Tables, showing the Descent of S. D. A. Eajapakse, Esq., Mudaliyar of His Excel- lency's Gale, and J.P. for the Island, through his father and his mother 354 XVI. — Colombo and the Buddhist Temple at Kelaniya, as described by " Vagabond " in the Melbourne Argua . 357 xii Contents. XVII. — Statistics of Ceylon Railways. (See-the Map at end of Volume) 366 XVIII.— Caste in Ceylon 367 XIX.— The Ceylon Pearl Fisheries in 1887 . • .381 XX. — Anuradhapura, the Ancient Capital of Ceylon, and adjacent Euins and Tanks, in 1887 , . 389 XXI. — Reference to Frontispiece . ... 407 XXII.— Reference to Map of Ceylon 415 For General Index See Page 417. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. STATUE OF- SIE WILLIAM GREGORY IN FRONT OP- THE COLOMBO MUSEUM FroTiHspiece PAGE VIGNETTES OP GOVERNORS OP CEYLON . . To face 1 THE NEW HARBOUR OF CEYLON .... „ 8 VIEW ON THE M^HAVELLIGANGA, HEAR KANDY ... 12 BRIDGE OF BOATS, COLOMBO .... . . 14 SCENE AMONG THE RUINS OP POLONARUWA . . 24 TRINOOMALEE HARBOUR . . . . 37 A COCONUT PLANTATION .... . . 43 A COCONUT CLIMBER . . . . . 52 TALIPOT PALM IN FLOWER .... . . 54 VIEW OF A YOUNG TEA, COPPEE, AND CINCHONA PLANTATION (abbotsfobd) CO LIBERIAN COFFEE ; . 62 ASSAM-CHINA HYBRID TEA PLANT 70 CINCHONA succiRUBRA {Genuine Bed Barlt) ... 71 THE ARABIAN COFFEE TREE ....... 73 THE ASSAM TEA TREE . . .... 75 PODS OF THE CACAO (cHOCOLATe) TREE . . . 70 THE CACAO (chocolate) TREE . . . . 81 THE CEARA RUBBER TREE ... ... 83 THE BANYAN TREE {FicUS Indico.) 89 COFFEE, ARABIAN AND LIBERIAN 104 LOW-COUNTRY SINHALESE MAN AND WOMAN . . . 112 XIV List of Illustrations. FAOB 120 KANDY LAKE GEOUP OF PALMS, &C., KOYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, PBEADENIYA 122 NUWAKA ELIYA, THE MOUNTAIN SANATAEIUM . . . 124 THE FALLS OF RAMBODA 125 DAGOBA 29 NAULA FALLS, EASTEBN HAPUTALE 131 KANDYAN HIGHLAND SUBORDINATE CHIEFTAIN . . . 134 MOORMAN "TAMBY" (pBDLAe) 154 THE DHOBY 157 DEVIL DANCER, WITH ATTENDANT TOM-TOM BEATER . . IGO C. H. DE SOYSA, ESQ., J.P. . . ... 1C3 SAMPSON DE RAJAPAKSE, ESQ., J.P 164 KANDY TEMPLE 167 ■WILD ELEPHANTS IN THE ELEPHANT KEAAL .... 178 ELEPHANT CHARGE IN THE JUNGLE 186 SCENE AMONG THE RUINS OF POLANNARUA .... 204 DIAGRAM OF THE T0P06EAPHY OF ADAm's PEAK . . 339 DIAGRAM OF RAINBOW ROUND THE SHADOW OF ADAm's PEAK . 340 COOLIE GIEL PICKING TEA-LEAVES 345 WEIGHING-IN GREEN TEA-LEAF ON A TEA ESTATE . . 347 NOTE, Most of the Ceylon photographs from which the engravings were made for this volume were taken by Messrs. W. L. H. Skeen and Co., Colombo ; but those of the Ceara rubber-tree (page 83) and of the Liberian coffee (page 104) were by Mr. C. T. Scowen, photographer, Kandy and Colombo, Ceylon. For the engraving of Cinchona on page 71 the author is indebted to Messrs. Howabd and Sons. A few of the engravings added in this edition are from the " Souvenirs of Ceylon," by A. M. Ferguson, 1870. Acknowledgment is made on page 62 to the Eev. S. Langdon and his publisher for the use of four engravings. And we have further to express our obligation to Messrs. Tatloh and Francis for the loan of the engravings illustrative of thf Paper on the Shadow of Adam's Peak, page 315. Sir Arthur ]I d inlon Ut. Hon. bir W. ]I. Gregory. S r J R Longden BOME OF THE BRITISH G0VERlH9Ba OF CEILON. (For eomjilele list see Appendtx r.,page 252.) €t^lan m % JiiMIeie ^mx. CHAPTEE I. PAPT HISTOET. The Ophir and Tarshish of Solomon — Northern and Sonthem ludiair dyi^iasties — Chinese inyaBion and coqnection with the Island in ancient.and modern times — Portuguese and Dutch mlia — British annexation. 1 TAKE it for grainted that the readers of this work \rill have some general acquaintance with the position, history, and condition of Oeylon. It is the largest, most populous, and most important of her Britannic Majesty's Crown Colonies, which are so called because the administration of their affairs is under the direct control of the Colonial Office. Ceylon has long been Confesi'd the best aQd brightest gem In Sntain's cHient diadem.'' There can be no danger no w-a-days of a member -of Parliament getting up in his place to protest against British troops being stationed in Ceylon on account of the deadly climate cf " this part of West Africa," the "utmost Indian isle" being ;then con- {otmded with Sierra Leone 2 2 Ceywn m tne Juouee xear. Knowti to ancient voyagers as far back as the time qf King Solomon (of whose Ophir and Tarshish many- believe Ceylon to have, formed a part)^ the story of its b«auty, its jewels, and its spices was familiar to the Greeks and Eomans, who called it Taprobane, and to the Arab traders who first introduced the coffee plant into this island, and who placed in Serendib the scene of many of Sindbad's adventures. It was also known to the Mohammedan world at large, who to this day regard the island as the elysium provided for Adam and Eve to, console them for the loss of Paradise, a tradition used as a solatium by Arabi and his co- Egyptian exiles a few years ago, when deported from their native land. To the people of India, to the Burmese, Siamese, and Chinese, Lank4, "the re- splendent," was equally an object of interest and admiration, so that it has been well said that no island in the world, Great Britain itself not excepted, has attracted the attention of authors in so many different countries as has Ceylon. There is no land, either,, which can tell so much of its past history, not merely. in songs and legends, but in records which have been verified by monuments, inscriptions, and coins ; some of the structures in and around the ancient capitals of the Sinhalese are more than 2,000 yeats old, and only second to those of Egypt jn vastness of extent and architectural interest.* Between 543 B.C., when Wijaya, a prince from Northern India, is said to have invaded Ceylon, conquered its native rulers, and made himself king, and the end of the year 1815, when the last king of Kandy, a cruel monster, was deposed and banished * See "Buried Cities of Ceylon," by S. M. Burrows, C.E.I., pub- lished by A. M. and J. Ferguson. by the British, the Sinhalese chronicles present us with a list of well-nigh 170 kings and queens, the history of whose administrations is of the most varied and interesting character, indicating the attainment of a degree of civilization and material progress very unusual in the East at that remote age. Long, peaceful, and prosperous reigns were interspersed with others chiefly distinguished by civil dissensions and foreign invasions. The kings of Ceylon, how- ever, had given sufficient provocation to foreign iTilers when in the zenith of their power. In the twelfth century the celebrated king Prakrama Bahii not only defeated the rulers of Southern Indian states, but sent an army against the king of Cam- bodia, which, proving victorious, made that distant land tributary to Ceylon.* On the other hand, in retaliation for the plundering of a Chinese vessel in a Sinhalese port, a Chinese army, early in the fifteenth century, penetrated to the heart of the hill-country, -• The king of Cambodia (Siam) iu these days is a tribute-offerer to Lank&, as the following paragraph from a Sinhalese paper last year will show : — "Presents pbom the King of Cambodia to the Buddhist CoLLEOE, Maligakanda, COLOMBO, — Several gold images, an excellent umbrella, ornamented with preoions stones, and a brush made of the king's hair, to be kept for uSe (sweeping) in the place where Buddha's image is placed, have been sent by the king of Cambodia to the high priest in charge of the college. Two or three^ priests have also come dovmto receive instruction in Pali, &c., &c. — Kirana, April 19." During a visit to China in 1884 nothing struck the author more than the exact resemblance between a Buddhist temple in Canton and one in Ceylon; the appearance ol -the priests, their worship and ceremonies, all were aUke. Outside, in that Motigolian world, all was so different ; the country, the towns, the customs, and the people with their pigtails, their oval eyes, and dress, all were strange and novel; but inside this Canton temple, before the shaven, yellow- robed monks, one felt for a moment carried back to " Lankd," and its numerous Buddhist temples. 4 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. and, defeating the Sinhalese forces at the then royal capital, Gampola, captured the king, and took him away to China ; and the island had for some time to pay an annual tribute to that country. At that time the Chinese exported from Ceylon a large quantity of the kaolin for pottery, which still abounds in the island. The close connection in early times between the island and the great Eastern Empire constitutes a very interesting episode. Fa-hien, the Chinese monk-traveller, visited Ceylon in search of Buddhist books about 400 i.n., and abode two years in the island. Ceylon was, however, exposed chiefly to incursions of Malabar princes and adventurers with their fol- lowers from Southern India, who waged a constant and generally successful contest with the Sinhalese. The northern and eastern portions of the island at length became permanently occupied • by the Tamils, who placed a prince of their own on the Kandyan throne, and so far had the ancient power of the king- dom declined, that when the Portuguese first appeared in Ceylon, in 1505, the island was divided under no less than seven separate rulers. Ceylon, in the Middle Ages, was " the Tyre of Asia." For 150 years the Portuguese occupied and con- trolled the maritime districts of Ceylon, but it was more of a military occupation than a regular govern- ment, and martial law chiefly prevailed. The army of Eoman Catholic ecclesiastics introduced under Portuguese auspices alone made any permanent im- pression on a people who were only too ready to embrace a religion which gave them high-sounding honorific baptismal names, and interfered seldom, if at all, with their continued observance of Buddhistic feasts and ceremonies. The Portuguese established Past Histoi-y. 5 royal monopolies in cinnamon, pepper, and musk; exporting besides cardamoms, sapan-wood, areca nuts, ebony, elephants, ivory, gems, pearls, and small quantities of tobacco, silk, and tree cotton (" kopok " of modem times). The Dutch, who by 1656 had finally expelled the Portuguese rulers from the island, which the Lisbon authorities had said "they had rather lose all India than imperii," pursued a far more progressive ad- ministrative policy ; though, as regards commerce, it was selfish and oppressive. Still confined to the low country (the king of Kandy defying the new as he had done the previous European invaders), the Dutch did much to develop cultivation and to improve the means of communication — more especially by canals in their own maritime territory — while establishing a lucrative trade with the interior. The education of the people occupied a good deal of official attention, as also their Christianization through a staff of Dutch chaplains ; but the system of requiring a profession of the Protestant religion before giving employment to any natives speedily confirmed the native love of dissimulation, and created a nation of hypocrites, so that the term '' Government Christian," or " Buddhist Christian," is common in some districts of Ceylon to this aay. The first care of the Dutch, however, was to estab- lish a lucrative commerce with Holland, and their vessels were sent not only to Europe, but also to Persia, India, and the Far East ports. Cinnamon was the great staple of export,* next came pearls (in * The peeling oi cinnamon, the selling or exporting of a single stick, save by the appointed ofBcers, or even the wilful injury of a cinnamon plant, were made crimes punishable by death by the Dutch. 6 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. the years which gave successfal pearl-oyster fisheries in the Gulf of Mannar) ; then . followed elephants, pepper, areca or hetel nuts, jaggery-sugar, sapan- wood and timber generally, arrack spirit, choya-roots (a substitute for madder), cardamoms, cinnamon oil, their toilsome marches between the fortresses on the coast dragged their cannon through deep sand along the shore. Before Sir Edward Barnes resigned his government in 1831, every town of importance was approached by a carriage-road. He had carried a first-class macadaniized road from Colombo to Kandy, throwing a " bridge of boats," which exists to this day, over the Kelani river near Colombo, erecting other bridges and culverts too numerous to mention en route, and constructing, through the genius of General Eraser, a beautiful satin-wood bridge of a single span across the l^Laba- veliganga (the largest river in, Ceylon) at Peradeniya, near Kandy. On this road (72 miles in length) on the 1st of February, 1832, the Colombo and Kandy mail-coach — the first mail-coach in Asia— was started; and it continued to run successfully till the road was superseded by the railway in 1867. There can be no doubt that the permanent conquest of the Kandyan country and people, which had baffled the Portugese and Dutch for 300 years, was effected ■through Sir Edward Barnes's militalry roads. A Kandyan tradition, that their conquerors were to be a people who should make a road through a rocky 14 Ceylon in the Jubilee Y^ar. hiU, was shrewdly turned to account, and tunnels formed features on two of the cart.routes into the previously; almost impenetrable hiU-country. The BRIDOE OP BOATS, COLOMBO. spurit of the Highland chiefs of Ceylon, as of Scotland seventy years earlier, was effectually broken by means of military roads into their districts ; and although iiie isiana m i/ao, ±oiu, a/ta oen-«i,^ Yekrs later. 15 the military garrison of Ceylon has gone down from about 6,000 troops to 1,000, and, indeed, although for months together the island has been left with not more than a couple of hundred of artillerymen, no serious trouble has been given for nearly seventy years by the previously warlike Kandyans or the Ceylonese generally. So much for the value of opening up the country from a military point of view. Governor Barnes, however, left an immense deal to do in bridging the rivers in the interior, and in extending district roads^ of which not much wa^ attempted until the arrival of his worthiest successor. Sir Henry Ward. This governor, with but limited means, did a great deal to open up remote districts, and to bridge the Maha- veliganga at Gampola and Katugastotte, as well as many other rivers which in the wet season were weU- nigh impassable. He thus gave an immense impetus to the planting ente'rprize, which may be said practi- cally to have taken its rise from the year of the Queen's accession, 1837. For the restoration and construction of irrigation works to benefit the rice cultivation of the Sinhalese and Tamils, Sir Henry Ward did more than any of his predecessors. He also began the railway to Kandy, which was success- fully completed in the time of his successors. Sir Charles MacCarthy and Sir Hercules Eobinson. In the latter, Ceylon was fortunate enough to secure one of the most active and energetic governors that ever ruled a Crown. colony. Sir Hercules Eobinson left his mark in every province and nearly every district of the country, in new roads, bridges, public buildings, and especially in the repair of irrigation tanks and channels, and 16 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. "the prOvisioB of sluices. He extended the railway •some seventeen miles, and he laid the foundation of the scheme through which, under his successor, Sir "William Gregory, the Colombo Breakwater was begun ; and through the engineering skill of Sir Johji ■Coode, and his local representative, Mr. John Kyle, this latter work has ensured for the capital of Ceylon ■one of the safest, most convenient, and commodious artificial harbours in the world. To Sir William Gregory belongs the distinction of having spent more revenue on reproductive public works than any other governor of Ceylon. The roads in the north and east of the island, which were chiefly gravel and sand tracks, were completed in a per- manent form, and nearly every river was brid^^d The North-Central Province, a purely Sinhalese noe growing division of the country, was called into ex- istence, and large amounts were invested in tanks and roads ; planting roads were exteadcd ; about fifty miles added to the railway system, and preliminary arrangements made for a further extension of some sixty-seven miles, forty-two of which have since been undertaken and completed. When Governor Gregory left in 1877, there were few rivers of any imj)ortance left unbridged, a large extent of previously unoccupied country had been opened up for cultivation, and an im- petus given to both natives and the European colonists in the extension of cultivation, especially of new pro- ducts, which alone has saved the island from a serious collapse in the years of commercial depression and bhght on coffee which have followed. Since 1877 not many miles of new road have been added, although Governor Gordon has improved existing loads, and constructed some important bridges, The Island in 1796, 1815, and Seventy Years later. 17 especially in the new and rising Kelani Valley tea district ; but it is something to say that, whereas the Eev. James Cordiner, chaplain to the Governor of Ceylon in 1807, could write, " Strictly speaking there are no roads in Ceylon," now, after about ninety years of British rule, some 1,300 ipiles of first- class metalled roads, equal to any in the world, have been constructed, besides about 900 miles of gravelled roads for light traffic, supplemented by 600 miles of natural tracks available in dry weather to traverse districts where as yet there is little or no traffic. The main roads are those from Colombo to Batticoloa via Ratnapura, Haputale, and Badulla, right across the island ; from Colombo to Trincomalee via Kandy, and another branch via Kurunegala, also right across the breadth of the island, but north instead of south of the Central Province ; from Jaffna southwards through the centre of the island to Kandy, and thence to Nuwara Eliya and Badulla, and by a less frequented route to Hambantota on the south coast ; from Kandy to Mannar on the north-west coast — the great immi- gration route ; and the main . roads on the coast, Colombo to Galle and Hambantota, and north to Mannar and almost to Jaffna. Subsidiary first-class roads, especially in the Central Province, are too numerous to mention. The benefit which this network of roads has con- ferred on the people, it is impossible to over-estimate. Secluded districts have been opened up, and markets afforded for produce which previously was too often left to waste ; settlements, villages, and even large towns, have sprung up within the last fifty years (during our good Queen's reign) alongside roads where, previously, all was jungle and desolation, and means 3 18 Ceylon in the Jubilee xewr. of employment have been afforded td a people who had scarcely ever Been a coin. As in India, so on a smaller scale in Ceylon, it is a recognized fact that there is no more effectual pre- ventive of famine than internal means of commimi- cation, whether by road, rail, canal, or navigable river. There has probably never been a year in which India, within its widely-extended borders, did not produce enough food to supply all its population ; but tmfortunately there has been no means of getting the superabundance of one district transferred to the famine area in another part of the continent. So in Ceylon, in years gone by, there has been great scarcity and mortality in remote districts without the central Government at'Oalombo being made properly aware of the fact, or being able \,6 supply prompt relief. The mortality from fever and food scarcity in some parts of the country must thus have been very great before British times. Roads, again, are great educators, but in this they are surpassed by railways in an Oriental land. The railways in India and" Ceylon are doing more in these modern days to level caste and destroy superstition than all the force of missionaries and schoolmasters, much as these latter aid in this good work. The railway between Colombo and Kandy, projected originally about fojfty years ago, was not seriously taken in hand till the time of Sir Henry Ward. After many mistakes and alterations of plans, it was successfully completed under the skilful engineering guidance of Mr. G. L. Molesworth, CLE. (now con- sulting engineer to the Government of India), Mr. W. F. Faviell being the successful contractor. The total length is' 74^ mit^s, and, including a good deal The Island in 1796,' 1815, and Seventy Years later. 19 of money unavoidably wasted in dissolving and pay- ing off a company, it cost the colony, from first to last, as much as, £1,738, 413; but the line (on the broad Indian gauge of 5 ft. 6 in.) is most substantially constructed, including iron-girder bridges, viaducts, a series of tunnels, and an incline rising 1 in 45 for 12 miles into the mountain zone, which gives this railway a prominent place among the remarkable lines of the world. Since 1867 the railway has been extended by Sir Hercules Eobinson', on the same gauge, for 17 miles from Peradeniya to Gampola and Nawalapitiya, rising iowns in the Central Province j and by Sir William <3-regory, for 172- miles from Kandy to Matale, a town on the borders of the Central Province : while in the low country the same governor constructed a seaside line from Colombo, through a very populous district, to Kalutara, 27^ miles, and also some 3J miles of Wharf and Breakwater branches. To Governor Gregory's time also belongs the in- ception and practical commencement of the extension from Nawalapitiya to the' principality of Uva, 67 miles, of which 41J were commenced in 1880, and finished in 1885. This line includes two long inclines, with gradients of'l in 44, a tunnel 614 yards long, and the present terminus at Nanu-oya is 5,600 feet above sea-level, within four miles of the sanat9.rium and town of Nuwara Eliya (6,200 feet above sea- level), and on the borders of Uva, which rich country, however, cannot properly be served until a further extension of 255- miles to Haputale is carried out, as it is earnestly hoped that it may be very shortly. Governor Gordon, after some doubt and delay at first, has been thoroughly convinced of the importance of this work. 20 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. In all there are 184 miles of railway open in Ceylon, but only 91 may be said to have been work- ing long enough to afford a fair test of the traffic and the benefit to colonists, natives, and the country gene- rally. The seaside line, however, has a wonderfully large passenger traffic, and if only extended to Ben- tota, and still more to Galle, would also secure profit- able freight. With the revival of planting prosperity through tea, the Nanu-oya and Matale lines are also certain to be fully employed, although the first-named must be extended into Uva before a full return can be got for the outlay. The main line to Kandy has more than repaid its cost in direct profit, apart from the immense benefits it has conferred. It is sometimes said that this rail- way and other lines in Ceylon, constructed as they were mainly for the planting enterprise and with the planters' money, confer far more benefit on the Euro- peans than on the native population. An answer to this statement, and an evidence of the immense educating power of our railways, is found in the fact that during the past twenty years well nigh twenty- six milUons of passengers have been carried over the lines, of whom all but an infinitesimal proportion were natives (Sinhalese and Tamils chiefly). On the Kandy line alone it would have taken the old coach, travelling both ways twice daily, and filled each time, several hundred years to carry the passengers who have passed between the ancient capitals and pro- vinces in the past twenty years. There was scarcely a Kandyan chief or priest who had ever seen, or, at any rate, stood by the sea until the railway into the hill country was "opened in 1867, whereas, for some time after the opening, the interesting sight was often. The Island in 1796, 1815, and Seventy Years later. 21 presented to Colombo residents of groups of Kandy- ans standing by the sea-shore in silent awe and admiration of the vast ocean stretched out before them, and the wonderful vessels of all descriptions in Colombo harbour. In pointing out that the Dutch (equally with the Portuguese) constructed no roads, we must not forget that the former, true to their home experience, con- structed and utilized a system of canals through the maritime provinces along the western and south- western coast. In this they were greatly aided by the back-waters, or lagoons, which are a feature on the Ceylon coast, formed through the mouths of the rivers becoming blocked up, and the waters find- ing an outlet to the sea at different points, often miles away from the line of the main stream. The canals handed oyer by the Dutch at first fell into comparative disuse, but within the last thirty years they have been fully repaired and utilized, and there are now about 170 miles of canal in the island. With the construction of roads wheeled traffic became possible, and a large number of the Sinhalese speedily found very profitable employment, in con- nection with the planting industry mainly, as owners and drivers of bullock carts, of which there must be from 15,000 to 20,000 in the island, besides single bullock-hackeries for passenger trafSic. In nothing is the increase of wealth among the natives more seen, in the Western, Central, and Southern Provinces, than in the number of horses and carriages now owned by them. Thirty or forty years ago, to see a Ceylonese with a horse and conveyance of his own was rare indeed ; now the number of Burghers, Sinhalese, and Tamils driving their own carriages, in 22 Ceylon in the Jvhilee Year. the towns especially, is very remarkable. The greater number of the horses imported during the past twenty-five years — the imports during that time numbering 13,000 — have certainly pasised to the people of the country. CHAPTER III. SOCIAL PKOGEESS IN NINETY YEARS. Population — ^Buildings — Postal and Telegraphic services — Savings- banks — Banking and Currency — Police and Military defence — Medical and Educational achievements — ^Laws and Grime. Having thus described more particularly the vast change effected in British times by the construction of communications all oyer the island, we must touch briefly on the evidences of social progress given in our table (pages 10, 11). The increase in population speaks for itself. It is very difficult, however, to arrive at a correct estimate of what the population was at the beginning of the century, as the Dutch could have no complete returns, not having any control over the Kandyan provinces. The first attempt, at accurate numbering was in 1824, by Governor Barnes, atnd the result was a total of 851,440, or, making allowance for omissions due to the hiding of people through fear of taxation, &c., say about a million of both sexes and all ages. As regards the large estimate of the ancient population of Ceylon located in the northern, north-central, and eastern districts, now almost eutirely deserted, we are by no means inclined, with the recollection of the 24 Ceylon in the Juhilee Year. Social Progress in Ninety Years. 25 famous essay on the " Populousness of Ancient Nations oefore us, to accept the estimates published lay Sir Emerson Tennent and other enthusiastic writers. There can be no doubt, however, that a ■very consideraWe population found means of existence in and around the ancient capitals of Ceylon, and the great Tank region of the north and east, a region which affords scope for a great, though gradual, ex- tension in the settlement of both Sinhalese and Tamils in the future. At present it must be remem- bered that fully two-thirds of the population are found in the Westem, Southern, and Central Provinces, occupying a good deal less than half the area of the island, and that there are large districts, once the best-cultivated with rice, with now perhaps only half a dozen souls to the square mile. As regards the number of inhabited houses, in 1824 there were not more than 20,000 with tiled roofs in the island ; that number has multiplied manifold, but the half-million now given refer to all descriptions of inhabited houses, most of these being huts roofed with coconut leaves. The improvement in the resf- dences of a large proportion of the people is, however, very marked : among one class the contrast between the old and modern homes has been well described as being as gi-eat as that between a begrimed native ■chatty (clay vessel) and a bright English tea-kettle. In the town of Kandy, which has now about 4,000 dwelling-houses — the large majority substantially built, many of two stories — eighty years ago no one but the tyrant-king was allowed to have a tiled roof, or any residence better than a hut. In all the towns, and many of the villages of the island, substantial public buildings have been erected : revenue offices, 26 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. court-houses, hospitals and dispensaricB, prisons, schools, and post and telegraph offices. A great change for the better in respect of these institutions- was effected by Governors Bobinson and Gregory. Further evidences of the good d(^e through a liberal and enlightened administration we find in an admirable internal postal service, made possible by the roads through which every town and village of any consequence is served, the total number of post- offices being 111, supplemented by 16 telegraph sta- tions, there being 1,100 miles of telegraph wire in the island ; while, in addition, the Postal-Teleigraph Department has opened Postal savings-banks in all the towns and important villages. This is apart from a Ibng-existing Government savings-bank, with, about 10,000 depositors, owning' deposits to the amount of perhaps two million rupees. With the rise of local trade and foreign commerce, chiefly through the export of planting products, came the need of banking and exchange facilities, and the call for these led to the establishment of a local Bank. over forty years ago. This was superseded, however, soon after by the Orientiil Bank Corporation, which graduaiUy controlled by far the larger share of loca,! business, so that the Ceylon branches became among the most important and profitable of this well-known Eastern bank. This gradually tempted its managers to depart from legitimate business by -lending its- capital too freely on planting, produce, and estates, and when this bank closed its doors in March, 1880, no- where was the shock felt more widely or acutely than throughout Ceylon. The effect an4 distrust among; the natives would have been greatly aggravated were it not for the bold sfep tanen by Sir Arthur Gordon. Social Progress in Ninety Years. 27 in extending an official guarantee to the bank's note issue, -which eventuated in a Government note issue soon after, much to the advantage of the people and the exchequer, as will yet be seen. So far, the circu- lation of Government notes is rapidly approximating to five millions of rupees. Nor is any loss likely to be sustained from taking up the notes of the Oriental Bank, which, in fact, ought never to have closed its doors. The New Oriental Bank Corporation founded upon it, is already prospering, and the plantations have been mainly taken over by a Limited Company, and are likely to be worked at a good profit. Ceylon has' suffered a good deal at times from plantation companies, chiefly through the " Ceylon Company, Limited," which, though so named, was really founded to take up bad business in Mauritius, where its heaviest losses were sustained. Other banks and agencies prospering in Ceylon are those of the Chartered Mercantile Bank of London, India, and China, the Bank of Madras, and the National Bank of India, besides mercantile agencies of other Eastern banks. -It may be mentioned that Sir Hercules Eobinson gave Ceylon the benefit of a decimal currency in rupees and cents of a rupee, thus placing it in advance of India, where the cumbrous subdivisions of the rupee into annas, pice, and pies still prevail ; in this respect Ceylon is indeed in advance of the mother-country. We need scarcely say that, at the beginning of British rule, there was no post-o£&ce, and for many years after, the service was of the most primitive, although expensive, kind ; nor were there police or volunteer corps in those days ; but there was an army corps (infantry, artillery, and even cavalry, altogether ^8 Ceylon iri the Jubilee Year. 5,000 to 6,000 men) kept up for many years, out of all proportion to the necessities of the case. The Home Government had the idea seventy years ago that the hidden wealth of Ceylon would enable a handsome annual subsidy to be paid to the treasury of the mother-country after all local expenses of government were defrayed. In place of that, so long as the govern- ment remained a mere military dependency, it was a dead loss to, and drain on, the imperial treasury. By degrees, however, it was seen that four British and as many native (Malay, Tamil, and Kaffir) regi- ments were not required, and, the force being cut down, it was decided by a commission appointed by the Secretary of State in 1865, that Ceylon should bear all the military expenditure within its bounds, the local force being fixed at one regiment of British infantry, one of native (the Ceylon Eifles), and one brigade of artillery, with a major-general and staff. The Ceylon Eifles again were disbanded a few years later, in 1873. The island, therefore, has cost the Home Government n'othing for the last twenty years : on the other hand, the force in Ceylon has been utilized very frequently for imperial and inter-colonial purposes. This will be alluded to later on, but we may mention here that Governor Gordon was instrumental, in view of the recent depression of the revenue, in getting the military contribution reduced to 600,000 rupees in place of about a milHon. The former amount is now counted as a naval, as well as military, contribu- tion, and is a very fair appraisement of the responsi- bility of Ceylon, considering that no internal trouble beyond the capacity of police and volunteers can be feared. Social Progress in Ninety Years. 2^ In no direction has more satisfactory work been done in Ceylon by the British Government than through its Medical and Educational Departments. Here are branches which give the natives a vivid idea of the superiority of English over Portugueq,e or Dutch rule, and, to judge by the way in which hos- pitals, dispensaries, and schools are made use of, it is evident that the Sinhalese and Tamils value their privileges. Of civil, lying-in, contagious diseases, and other hos- pitals, with lunatic and leper asylums, and out-door dispensaries, there are now 120 in the island, in or at which some 175,000 persons are treated annually,, more than two-thirds being, of course, for trifling ail- ments at the dispensaries. In this connection, the Ceylon Medical College,, founded by Sir Hercules Eobinson in 1870, most heartily supported by his successor. Governor Gregory,, and liberally endowed and extended by two wealthy Sinhalese gentlem«n, Messrs.'De Soyza and Eajepakse^ is worthy of mention. Out of some 240 Ceylonese students entered, about' sixty have qualified and ob- tained licences to practise medicine and surgery; about as many more are hospital assistants and dis- pensers ; some have taken service under the Straits' Government ', while others have gone home to qualify for degrees at British Universities. The college has a principal and seven lecturers ; and the Ceylonese have already shown a peculiar aptitude for the pro- fession, surgeons of special, even of European emi- nence, having come from their ranks.. We should mention here the good work done by Dr. Green, M.D., of the American Mission, in his medical classes for native students long before the Government College 80 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year, ■was founded. i liiHISral MJMII^^BB^^^BBWiii ' ' 'm$> ' ffiSH^ KMH^^^^HMRnPRRBH 11 nlfeVM^l M^^^^^^MfflBa. hwlkW^ ^^^Bk^SI 1 '" iB^pn|^^ Pm^^^^m^Pi^^ BIB a S O rf §■3 9 a •" 3 n -■' o 2 ! i H .So < I 6 O c. '^ o ■ i ° I §■89 ■ ^ -* §^-| S g S a o _g > |c, J S « 3 ■" e ■c E p year. The Moormen (Arab) traders and Sinhalese, having once diECOvered the use of coffee, kept up the The Origin and Bise of the Planting Industry. 61 cultivation and trade, but when the British took Ceylon and up to 1812, the annual export had never exceeded 3,000 cwt. So it continued until the master- mind of Sir Edward Barnes opened road communi- cation between the hill country and the coast, and began to consider how the planting industry could be extended, and the revenues of the country developed. The Governor himself led the way, in opening a coffee plantation near Kandy, in 1825, just one year after the first systematic coffee estate was formed by Mr. George Bird, near Gampola. These examples were speedilj' followed, but still the progress was slow, for in 1837, twelve years after, the total export of coffee did not exceed 30,000 cwt. It is usual to date the rise of the coffee planting enterprise from this year, which witnessed a great rush of investments, and the introduction of the West India system of cultivation by Eobert Boyd Tytler, usually regarded as the "father " of Ceylon planters. An immense extension of cultivation took place up to 1845, by which time the trade had developed to an export of close on 200,000 cwt. Then came a financial explosion in Great Britain, which speedily extended its destructive influence to Ceylon, and led to a stop- page of the supplies required to plant and cultivate j-oung plantations. Much land opened was aban- doned, and for three years the enterprise was paralyzed ; but nevertheless the export continued to increase, and by the time Governor Sir Henry Ward appeared, in 1855, confidence had been restored, and all was ready for the great impetus his energetic ad- ministration gave to an enterprise which, in twenty years, had come to be regarded as the backbone of the af^ricultural industry of the island, and the main- 62 Cfiylon in the Jubilee Year. stay of the revenue. The Sinhalese soon followed the example set them by the European planters, and so lyidely and rapidly developed their coffee gardens throughout the hill-country, that between 1849 and 1^69, from one-half to one-fourth of the total q^antity of coffee shipped year by year was " native coffee." LIBEBIAN COFFEE.* The highest level of prosperity was reached in 1868, 1869, and 1870, in each of which years the * For the use of this illnstration, as also for the plates of the " Coconut Climber," the " Talipot Palm," and the " Coffee Tree," we are indebted to the Bev. S. Langdon, the author of a charming account of the missionary's home and its rich surroundings of animal and vegetable hie in a tropical land. This volume, " My Missioa The Origin and Rise of the Planting Industry. 6S exports slightly exceeded a million cwt.i of a value in European markets of not less than four millions sterling, against 34,000 cwt., valued at £120,000, ex- ported in 1837 : a marvellous development in thirty years of a tropical industry ! In 1869 the total extent cultivated on plantations (apart from native gardens) was 176,000 acifes, and the return from the land in full bearing averaged over 5 cwt. an acre, a return which should, under favourable circumstances, give a pro^t of from £7 to £10 an acre, or from twenty to twenty-five per cent, on the capital invested. Nothing could be brighter than the prospects of the colony and its main enterprise in 1869 : Sir Hercules Eobinson's administration, then in mid-course, was most beneficial ; the railway between Colombo and Kandy, two years open, was a grand success ; and, with an unfailing supply of cheap free labour from Southern India, remarkable facilities for transport, and a splendid climate, the stability of the great coffee enterprise seemed to be assured. Its importance was fully realized through the statistics of the actual extent cultivated which were for the first time compiled, in full detail (by the author), and although it began to be felt that the good land at the most si»itable altitude had all been taken up, and most of it brought under cultivation, yet no one doubted the comparative permanency of such plantations under a liberal, scientific system of Garden," and another by the same author, " Punchi Nona, a story of Feiuale Education and Village Life in Ceylon," both give vivid, enter- taining, and truthful pictures of Ceylon life and mission work, and tlii.y show what good is being done to thte people of the country by putiLiit teaching. Published by T. Woohner, 2, Castle Street, City Ru;-. !. K.C. ; and at (iij. I'atenioster PiOW, E.C. 64 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. cultivation. But in this same year there first -ap- peared an enemy, most insignificant in appearance, ■which in less than a dozen years was fated to bring down the export of the great staple to one-fifth of its then dimensions, and that notwithstanding a wide extension of new cultivation. This enemy was a minute fungus on the leaf, new to -science, and named Ijy the greatest fungoid authorities Hemileia vastatnz, from its destructive powers, now popularly known as " coffee-leaf disease." First appearing in one of the youngest districts, at a remote comer, it rapidly spread all over the coffee zone, being easily distinguished by the appearance of bright orange spots on the leaves, which subsequently wither and drop off. At first it was treated as a matter of little moment by . all but the late Dr. Thwaites, P.E.S., the Director of the Ceylon Botanic Gardens, and for several years it apparently did little harm, craps being only slightly affected, and any decrease being attributed to seasonal influences rather. than to a minute pest, which, it was supposed, only served to remind the planter of the necessity of more liberal cultivation. Another cause, moreover, served most effectually to blind the eyes of all con- cerned to the insidious progress of the pest, and the gradual but sure falling-off of crops, namely, a sudden and unprecedented rise in the value of coffee in Europe and America — a rise equivalent, in a few years, to more than fifty per cent. This great access of value to his returns more than sufficed to com- pensate the Ceylon planter for any diminution of crop. It did more : it stimulated a vast extension of culti- vation into the largest remaining reserve, known as the "Wilderness of the Peak, extending from Nuwara The Origin and Rise of the Planting Industry. 65 Eliya through a succession of upland valleys in Dimbula, Dikoya, and Maskeliya, to the Adam's Peak range, an area of forest covering some 400 square miles, having the most delightful climate in the •world, but until this time (1868-69) regarded as too high and wet for coffee. This region had been pre- viously utilized as a hunting-ground by an occasional party of Europeans or Kandyans, the pilgrims' paths to Adam's Peak, winding their way through the dense jungle, and intercepted by a succession of large unbridged rivers, being the only lines of communica- tion. The rush into this El Dorado had beguh in the time of Sir Hercules Eobinson, who energetically aided the development by extending roads and bridg- ing rivers, thus utilizing some of the large surpluses which the sale of the lands and the increased customs and railway revenues afforded him. A cycle of favourable — that is, comparatively dry — seasons still further contributed to the succesp of the young high districts, so that coffee (which had pre- viously been supposed to find its suitable limit at 4,000 or 4,500 feet) was planted and cultivated profitably up to 5,000 and even 5,500 feet. All through Governor Gregory's administration the high price of coffee and the active extension of the culti- vated area continued, the competition becoming so keen that forest-land, which ten or twenty years before would not fetch as much as £2 an acre, was sold as high as £15, £20, and even £28 an acre. Even at this price planters calculated on profitable results ; but there can be no doubt that speculation, rather than the teachings of experience, guided their calculations. Between 1869 and 1879 over 400,000 acres of €6 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Crown land were sold by the Ceylon Government, bringing in more than a million sterling to the revenue, and of this 100,000 acres were brought into cultivation with coffee, at an outlay of not less than from two to two and a-half millions sterling, almost entirely in the upland districts referred to. Meantime the insidious leaf-fungus pest had been working deadly mischief. High cultivation, with manure of various descriptions, failing to arrest its progress, the aid of science was called in, special in- vestigations took place, its life-history was written ; but the practical result was no more satisfactory to the coffee planter than have similar investigations proved to the potato cultivator, the wheat farmer fighting with rust, or the vine-grower who is baffled by the fatal phylloxera. Less deadly than the phylloxera, the leaf-fungus had nevertheless so affected the Ceylon coffee enterprise that in the ten years during which cultivation had extended more than fifty per cent., the annual export had fallen to three- fourths of the million cwt. The same fungus had extended to the coffee districts of India and Java, with similar results in devastated crops, but in the greatest coffee country of all — Brazil — the impetus to an ex- tension of cultivation which the high prices from 1873 onwards had given, was not checked by the presence of this fungoid, or other coffee diseases, and from thence soon began to pour into the markets of the world such crops as speedily brought prices to their old level, reacting disastrously on tlie Ceylon enterprise, which had at the same time to encounter the monetary depression caused by the collapse of the City of Glasgow Bank and other financial failures in Britain. Misfortunes never come singly, and accord- The Origin and Rise of the Planting Industry. 67 ingly a series of wet seasons crowned the evils befalling the planters in the young high districts, while the older coffee lower down began to be neglected, so enfeebled had it become in many places under the repeated visits of the fungus. This so dis- heartened the coffee planter that he turned his attention to new products, more especially cinchona, and, later, tea, planted among and in supercession of the coffee, as well as in new land. Tea especially succeeded so well, as will be fully related further on, that coffee over a large area has been entirely taken out, and the area cultivated has been reduced from the maximum of 275,000 acres in 1878 to not much more than 100,000 acres in 1887. The result is that in the present season (1886-7) in place of the million cwt. exported sixteen years ago, the total shipments of coffee from Ceylon will not exceed one-fifth of that quantity, and although with a more favourable blos- soming time this year it may be increased in the succeeding season, yet there is no escape from the drawbacks which still beset the coffee planter in Ceylon. The leaf-fungus still hovers about, though in a much milder, and, as some think, a diseased form ; but another enemy has appeared in the shape oi a coccus (called " green bug "), which has done much harm. Nevertheless, in certain favoured coffee districts, such as the Uva divisions, Bopatalava, Maturatta, Agras division of Dimbula, and Middle and Upper Dikoya, coffee still looks vigorous, and may continue to repay careful cultivation, more especially as prices have again improved, and a scarcity of the product is anticipated. The mitigations of the disaster — the silver lining to the dark cloud which came over the prosi^ects of the majority of C^eylon coffee planters — will be alluded to later on. 68 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. At an early stage in the history of coffee leaf disease in Ceylon one cause, and that perhaps the chief, of the visitation had become apparent in the limitation of cultivation to one plant, and one only, over hun- dreds of square miles of bountry which had previously been.covered with the most varied vegetation. Nature had revenged herself, just as she had done on Ireland when potatoes threatened to become the universal crop, as well as on extensive wheat fields elsewhere, and on the French vinej'ards. The hemileia vastatrix was described by Dr. Thwaites as peculiar to a jungle plant, and finding coffee leaves a suitable food in 1869 it multiplied and spread indefinitely. It could not be said that the fungus thus burst out in Ceylon because of coffee being worn out or badly cultivated, for it first appeared in a young district upon vigorous coffee, and it afterwards attacked old and young, vigorous and weak trees, with absolute impartiality. The true remedy, then, for the loss occasioned by this pest — apart from the wisdom of the old adage not to have all one's eggs in one basket — lay in the introduction of New Products, CHAPTEE VII. NEW PRODUCTS. Tea — Cinchona — Cocoa — ^India-rabber — Cardamoms — Liberian Cofiee, &e. Tea cultivation was tried in Ceylon in the time of the Dutch, but was not persevered with ; and although there is a wild plant (cassia ariculata), called the Matara tea plant, from which the Sinhalese in the south of the island are accustomed to make an infusion, yet nothing was done with the true tea plant till long after coffee was established. Forty- five years ago the Messrs. Worms (cousins of the Eothschilds, who did an immense deal in developing Ceylon) introduced the China plant, and, planting up a field on the Eambode Pass, proved that tea would grow well in the island. Mr. Llewellyn about the same time introduced the Assam plant into Dolos- bagie district, but no commercial result oame from these ventures. Attention was, however, frequently called to this product, and in 1867 a Ceylon planter was commissioned to report on the tea-planting industry in India. In that same year the attention of planters was also fii'st turned to the cinchona 70 Ceylon iw the Jubilee Year. plant, which had been introduced six years earlier to India and Ceylon by Mr. Clements Markham. The Director of the Botanic Garden, Dr. Thwaites, how- ever, found great difficulty in getting any planter to care about cultivating a " medicine plant," and when the great rise in prices for coffee came, all thought of tea and cinchona was cast to the winds, and the one old profitable product, which everybody — planters and coolies alike — understood, was alone planted. Very eai-ly ,in his administration Sir William THE TEA PLANT. Gregory, to his special credit be it said, saw the necessity for new products, and he used all his personal and official influence to secure their develop- ment, introducing a new feature into the Governor's annual speech to the Legislative Council in special notices of the progress of tea, cinchona, cacao, Libe- rian coffee, and rubber cultivation. The influence of the principal journal in the colony (the Ceylon Observer) was cast into the same scale, and practical New Products. 71 information to aid the planter of new products was collected for it from all quarters, more especially from the tropical belt of the earth's surface.* When Governor Gregory arrived in 1872 only 500 acres of cinchona had been planted, but before he* left in 1877 not only had these increased to 6,000 acres, but the planters had begun thoroughly to appreciate the value of the new product, its suitable- ciNCHoNA sncciBurRAf (Genuine Bell Bark], ness for the hill-country and climate of Ceylon, and the profits to be made from judicious cultivation. The great rush, however, took place on the failure of * In June, 1881, the monthly periodical, The Tropical Agricul- turist, was started by the author from the Observer press for the special purpose of meeting the requirements of planters. It circulates all round the tropical world, and has received high encomiums in Britain, United States, and Australia. ■| The original drawing of this illustration has been kiudly supplied liv MesBrs. Howards and .Sons, of Stratford, E. 72 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. coffee in 1879 and the next three' years, so that by 1883 the area covered by this plant could not be lesa than 60,000 acres. The enormous bark exports which followed from Ceylon so lowered the price (involving the great blessing of cheap quinine) that it became no longer profitable to cut bark in the native South American cinchona groves, or to plant further in Ceylon, India, or Java. Attention has, therefore, since 1884 been directed from cinchona ; neverthe- less the exports from the existing area continue high, and the area still under cinchona, making Allowance for what is j)lanted throughout the tea and coffee plantations, cannot be less than 30,000 acres, with several (perhaps forty) million trees above two or three years, of all descriptions of cinchona growing thereon. The export of bark^ which was 11,547 lb. in 1872, rose to nearly 14,000,000 lb. the last season (1885-6), and it will not be less during 1886-7, while, with a fair price, it could be maintained at from eight \o ten million pounds per anpum. Very great mis- takes were made at first in cinchona-planting in the use of immature seed and by the choice of unsuitable species and unsuitable soil, but the Ceylon planters rapidly qualified themselves to be successful cinchona growers, and many still find how much may be done to supplement their staples (tea and coffee) through this product. It has long been the conviction of many who have studied the climate and the character of Ceylon soils that the country is far more fitted to become a great tea producer than ever it was to grow coffee. It is now realized, too, that a large proportion of the area opened with tbe latter product — apart from the appearance of leaf-fungus altogether — ^would have Neiv Products. 73 done much, better under tea. Unlike India, there is never in the low country, western and south-western, or in the central (the hilly) portions of Ceylon, a month of the year without rain, the annual fall in 74 Ceylon in the Jubilee Yea?: this region ranging from 80 to 200 inches, while the alternate tropical sunshine and moisture form the perfection of climate for the leaf-yielding tea-shrub.~^ Untimely downpours, which so often wrecked the blossoms and the hopes of the coffee-planter, do no harm to the le^f crop of the tea-planter. Not only so, but the harvesting of tea-leaf is spread over six, or even nine, months of the year. If a fresh flush of young leaf fails from any cause this month, the planter has generally only a few weeks to wait for another chance, and, save for the " pruning " and the very wet season in Ceylon, the tea-planter can look for some returns nearly all the year round. Very different was the case with coffee, the crop of which for a whole year was often dependent on the weather during a single month ; or even a week's (or a day's) untimely rain or drought might destroy the chance of a return for a whole year's labour. Even in the favoured Uva districts there were only two periods of harvesting coffee in the year. Again, while the zone suitable for the growth of coffee ranged from 1,500 or 2,000 to 4,500 or 5,500 feet above sea-level, tea seems to flourish equally well (the Assam indigenous kind, or good hybrid) at sea-level, and (a hardy hybrid or China kind) at 6,000 and even to close on 7,000 feet above sea-level. The tea shrub is found to be altogether hardier and generally far more suitable to the com- paratively poor soil of Ceylon than ever coffee was. Nevertheless it took many years to convince Ceylon planters of the wisdom of looking to tea ; and for some years even after it was gone into in earnest, much less progress was made than in the case of cin- chona. There were good reasons for this in the greater cost of tea seed, and the much greater- New Products. 75 ASSAM TEA TREE. 76 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. ■trouble entailed in the preparation of the produce for the market. Beginning from 1873 with an extent planted of 250 acres, in ten years this area increased to about 35,000 acres, while in the succeeding year, 1884, this was doubled, as much being also added in 1885, and a large extent in 1886, so that before the Jubilee Year of Queen Victoria's reign is closed, there will not be less than 150,000 acres covered with the tea plant in Ceylon. Tea seed is now cheap enough, and the manufacture of the leaf, is no longer a mys- tery, and Ceylon is on the highway to become a rival to- the most important of the Indian districts in the production of tea. The tea export from Ceylon of 23 lb. in 1876 has risen to 7,849,886 lb. in 1886, and it is expected to go on for some time almost at a geometrical rate of progression, so that, when the 150,000 acres are in bearing, the total export will not be less than forty million lb., say in 1890-91. There are large reserves of Crown land suitable for tea, for, as already said, it is found to produce profitable crops on land a few hundred feet above sea-level, as well as at all altitudes up to the neighbourhood of Nuwara Eliya, approximating to 7,000 feet. The rapid development of the tea-planting industry in Ceylon during the past four or five years consti- tutes the most interesting and important fact in the recent history of the island. The future of the colony depends upon this staple now far more than on any other branch of agriculture, and so far the promise is that the industry will be a comparatively permanent and steadily profitable one. On favoured plantations, , with comparatively flat land and good soil (tea lov€S a flat as coffee did a sloping hill-side), tea crops have already been gathered in Ceylon for Neiv Products. 77 some years in succession in excess almost of anything known in India. With unequalled means of com- munication hy railway and first-class roads — Uva districts still want their railway — with well-trained^ easily-managed, and fairly intelligent labourers in the Tamil coolie, with a suitable climate and soil, and, above all, with a planting community of ex- ceptional intelligence and energy in pushing a product that is once shown to be profitable for cultivation, the rapid development of our tea enterprise from the infant of 1876-80 to the giant of 1883-7 may be more easily understood. Ceylon teas have been received with exceptional favour in the London market, and the demand already exceeds the supply. The teas are of a high character and fine flavour,, perfectly pure, which is more than can be said of a large proportion of China and Japan teas. It is therefore expected by competent authorities that as the taste for the good teas of Ceylon and India spreads — one never enjoys a common adulterated tea after getting accustomed to one of good flavour — the China teas, to a great extent, may fall out of use. Whether this be the case or not, there is no doubt that the Ceylon tea-planter can hold his own. The consump- tion of his staple is spreading every year, and if the English-speaking people of the United States only did equal justice to the tea with their brethren, else- where, the demand would there also exceed the supply. Moreover, tea can be delivered more cheaply from Ceylon, allowing for quality, than from either India or China. As was the case with coffee, the prepara- tion of the new staple in Ceylon is in a fair way to be brought to perfection. Improved machinery has already been invented by local planters and others to 78 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. eave labour, counteract the effect of unsuitable weather (for withering the leaf, &c.), or to turn out teas with better flavour ; and yet the industry ■cannot be said properly to be seven years old in the island ! Already its beneficial influence on local business, export trade, and revenue is widely felt. The Sinhalese, in many districts, are volunteering to work for the tea-planters, and native^ tea-gardens are also being planted up on many low-country road-sides. This process is bound to go on until there is a wide area covered with tea under native auspices. The cultivators will probably, as a rule, sell their leaf to central factories owned by colonists ; but there is no. reason why, as time runs on, they should not manufacture for themselves. The atmosphere of planting, business, and even official circles in Ceylon just now is highly charged with "tea," and the number of Tea Patents (for preparing machines), of Tea pub- lications,* Tea Brokers, Tea selling and Tea planting companies would greatly astonish a Ceylon coffee planter of the "fifties," "sixties," or even "seventies," if he "revisited the. glimpses of the moon" in the Central or Western province of the island. Tea deserves a special chapter in this " Jubilee " book on Ceylon, and we could Hot say less about it. We call attention to our several engravings of the tea tree, and more especially to the pictures at the end, of our volume (with letterpress), supplied by the Planters' Association of Ceylon in connection with the " Colonial and Indian Exhibition of 1886 " (Appendix XI.). A minor product as compared with tea, but stillavery * See the " Ceylon Tea Planters' Manual." " Tea and other New Products," " Planters' Note Book," " Tea Tables," and " Tropical -Agiicnlturist," published by A. M. and J. Ferguson, Colombo New Products. 79 promising one in its own place, is Theobroma Cacao (" food for gods ") of Linnseus, producing the " cocoa" PODS OF THE CACAO TKEE, Each containing twenty-fuur seeds in pulp, which, wlien prepared, give the chocolate of conunerce. and chocolate of commerce. This plant can neVer 80 Ceylon "in the Jubilee Year. be cultivated in Ceylon to the same extent as coffee, tea, or cinchona, for it requires a considerable depth of good soil, in a favourable situation, at a medium elevation, with complete shelter from wind, and these requisites are only to be found in very limited areas in this island. Nevertheless, where these conditions exist, cacao promises to be a most lasting and profit- able cultivation. To the late E. B. Tytler belongs the credit of introducing this cultivation in the Dumbara valley, alid in his^ hands Ceylon cocoa speedily realized the highest price in the London market, experienced brokers remarking that there must be something in the soil and climate of the districts where it is cultivated in Ceylon peculiarly sitited to caqao. The Matal^. Kurunugala, and Uva districts also show fine cacao " walks," aiid the export of " cacao " has jrisen from 10 cwt. in 1878 to 13,056 cwt. in 1886. There are several thousand (14,000) acres now planted, which ought to give an export of 50,000 cwt. (or 5,600,000 lb., as counted in the West Indies) a few years hence. From experience in the West Indies, as well as Ceylon, it is found that up to ten years of age cacao is an ni^certain, even delicate, plant, but after that it is credited in British Guiana with goin^ on for 100 years yielding fairly remune- rative crops without, much trouble. Ceylon cacao planters have already improved on~ the means of preparing the. bean for the Loiidon market, and . further improvements are under consideration. It is possible that ultimately an area exceeding 80,000 acres under this {ilant will enable Ceylon to send 120,000 to 15i),000 cwt. of its prodijct into European markets.* * See pamphlets o^ 'i Gaoaio jOtilti7ation^" pn]i)I^hed by A. M. and J.FerguBoii,, Colombo.,:, New Products. 81 Cardamoms spice (called " grains of paradise ") is another minor product, the cultivation of which has , l..-^^^ '^^ ^^M WLMt^^ •'' ' '^^^ /' i^^^ ^STwJ^^^ JyJwB,- IfeiTS^ MBai^JMi^t j^uS^St rlaMHSi^TMH -'^^ lift rilMliiiMffunr ii fw^^S^iSm ^^£L 'S^^^^^VmA i^SE^iii^&SIHBl ^^kBTx^^^ /^ai s^^^^^^Xkan^^^Kfm ^^S^S^r''^^M&uA W^WWmmMBBZI^msy^ ''tt dlKV^JB'^lljEk/iX''VVlK!SS' ' ^^^mV^yiA g^^^R^^^Bpj^^BK rl^ypSP^'WW^ t«S^^^ Sj^^^v'-'ii^My ^.A j^KPI^B * ' ' im^p H^^^pMVSBkPz ' ^£^IbBK^sP^w^b^^u^ ^^y^^MpliHllj l^i^nB^^^^HiS^ ^^^8w6^^ ^BBwSwM^^ J^-y^atf^ylh^^M n^^K^p^n^l^inp l;^fcW^PS^^J»lro ^ISF^^i^^ffiitfl^^^ ^HsHm ■P^hIhN^BS ■H^3ISGw||i^R^^^J^S^- Ic^ ^'wr*j. illP/rWi I^^HB^flH^^^Wr^^^^ m^ii^S^ '^^^xtv SjSrfe-^'^!''^^^ ^^B^^^S^Bhji^^^^ ■V'9flKVi^2^VC'*'!9t^^'^^^ \j^^'' fl^^^^^^^.^r^iS^^PSpPQ[ '^/^^^uiB'^^al HI^^^^P^L''«# uf'^'Mn^llm^^3/m l^^aP^^^^^^ky^ - )M / -^ . ^^^^SJHwlgjMi l^jg^l^^W- ^^'^ ^^^K^^ 1 V|^^M^ 1 jJla-^^^^^^^ftsS ^^X?,^^ <^ r'l'' >rl^^lB^I I^H^^HMi^M(i'>lO^S^^BI^BB B^''*'^''i'?&>' ' "a*!^E ^!-. C'^t^'*-^ ;■ gs, * -'Ww ^^Sk <%^'' >& '^'t''^ ^I^H ? ■ ■ ■■^- -"-^f^ ■'v " *■ , . - . i>&%(le»:„ ..^BH H^^ "•"^^^i^^ ^^^^^B^K Ik ' stifi .^g^^^idS^ ^'^^^^i^f?^' ', _r:^ THE CACAO IKEE. benefited a good many Ceylon planters, the export rising from 14,0001b. in 1878 to 239,0001b. in 1886 ; 7 82 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. the latter a quantity sufficient to seriously affect the price in the I'onclon market. It is, indeed, a sig- nificant fact that in respect of two products, prac- tically receiving no attentive aid from our planters ten, or, at any rate, fifteen years ago, Ceylon now rules the markets of the world. We refer to cinchona bark and cardapaOms, for the supply of which, as of cinnamon, coconut oil, and plumbago, this colony is pre-eminent.* The Caoutchouc, or India-rubber trees of commerce, from South America and Eastern Africa, are of recent introduction, but their cultivation and growth in the planting districts of Ceylon have so far not given very satisfactory results. The growth of the trees has been generally satisfactory, indeed wonderful, equal- ling in some cases forty-eight feet in height, and forty-five- inches in circumference in five years, and when more is known about the mode of harvesting, the rubber the industry may prove very profitable.! Among minor new products Liberian coffee was introduced from the West African Republic of that name (in 1875-79 chiefly), in the hope that its large size and strong habit would enable it at the low elevation in which it grows to resist the leaf-fungus ; but this hope has not been realized, and although the acreage planted is giving fair crops, there is no attempt to extend this area for the present.! Pepper, African palm-oil nut, nutmegs, croton oil seeds, and annotto dye plant are among the other * Pamphlet on " Cardamoms Cultivation, 77 t-x^oo -r w gs -^t cs oi 171 c - 1 X 57 X c; C^ 7 . m_«iO_X 71 1.7 X J cTo cf7l'^*t^? •— C- SS -.C 71 71 t- - i-H L~ 71.l7_:2 71 r- . ^ '-" Er ~J S? tr "^ — T- — r:7ic-^dnc— t-coo ^- —. — 71 L- 77 1-7 ^ r-. — =:i = 1.7 L~ 77 I - Tl ^ ^ i t-l 77 — 71 71 5i ^' J^ 5i ^ I 1^ CO Ti o -t o z: — o 1 II 1^ . C-. r: c: U-: a t- L- .-- - L-:_ x l-^ -s.ss^.s.sf^ss'---" J a i cwt. 223,093 814,811 823,941 •200,0.58 4C8,7.5S 069,014 824,,509 0'20,'292 948,047 720,427 908,094 617,842 995,198 cwt. 8,117 20,305 11,483 14,422 41,897 38 ,.302 47,808 57,210 69,210 91,810 98,791 118,1138 96.1 19 1,'!8,918 1 215,576 294,506 312,458 '245,031 522,949 415,466 632,306 767,293 661,046 851,201 620,6.36 855,661 621,193 801,. 175 O" 5C»r3-rr;7lT-IQ03Xt-^ O O -f 73 C-C-L— t- XX X X 01 ,£j 6 600606 66 o 6 d Q as a S^CQg^QOS(Dt-g»0'*03iN aJaOaoSooaoaocoxcox^xx ."S ■ . . . 00000000000000 s -\^' '.---.'^J'rr^V - a ? ^' i^" 71 71 71 71 71 Pi "^ r-l A^ ■" 1^ 8S5St55£SS£E£S ■Positio7i of Agnculture and Trade. 87 crucible purposes is obtained. The industry has taken a great start of recent years, the average export increasing about 50 per cent, within the decade ; the value of the trade averages about £350,000 per an- num, and this mining industry has sprimg up entirely within the last forty years. *' Of other minerals mention may be made of the precious stones found and exported in certain quanti- ties, the chief being rubies and ■ sapphires and cat's eyes. " Pearh " are included in the Customs returns with " precious stones," and the total value of all recorded in any one year for exports has never exceeded £9,000; but the large proportion of both pearls and precious stones taken out of the island on the persons of natives or others leaving would not be entered at all in the Customs returns. Gold is freely distributed in the primary rocks of Ceylon, but it has not been found in paying quantities. Eich iron ore is very abundant, but there is no coal. Of other minor exports affording some trade to native huntsmen are deer -horns, the trade in which indicates a considerable destruction of deer, so that a law has been passed to protect them as well as other game and elephants. The export of "lides and skins " is considerable, and might be more important were it not for the Sinhalese habits of cutting and marking the hides of their cattle. The local industry in tanning is very limited, though the materials are at hand to extend it considerably. There is also much scope for the export of dyeing (as well as tanning) substances. The export trade in timber — apart from ebonj- — is considerable, such as satin- * See^Ionograph on " Plumbago," by A. M. Ferguson, contributed to the Eoyal Asiatic Society's Journal (Ceylon), in 1S85. 88 Cuijhii in the Jubilee Year. ■wood, palmj'ra, tamarind, &c., to a total average value of ,£20,000 per annum. It will be observed that the branches of trade more particularly in the hands of the natives — coconut oil, cinnamon, and minor exports — are in a sound, flourishing, and progressive condition. The case is very different with coffee, and the significance of the figures in our table will be understood when it is remembered that between 1865 and 1878 the average export of coffee shipped was equal in value to more than double of all the other exports put together. But instead of four or five millions of pounds' worth of coffee, we are now reduced to a value of from one to one and a quarter million sterling. Now, however, come in the new headings in our export table of tea, cinchona, and cacao, the latter two of which hence- forth divide attention with coffee, while to tea will belong the honour of representing our planting en- terprise 2}nr excellence. As to the future of coffee, we think that an average export of a million pounds' sterling worth (200,000 to 250,000 cwt.) may still be counted on ; and to make up the deficiency of three millions we may look to a steady export of cinchona bark, worth from three to five hundred thousand pounds per annum ; while cacao, cardamoms, &c., should make a further considerable addition. But the main dependence must be on tea ; and, considering the rapid way in which this has been planted, we see no reason to doubt that the area culti- vated will suffice a few years hence to produce a quan- tity, of say thirty to forty million ]iounds' weight, worth a sum approximating to two million pounds sterling. Some authorities indeed calculate that there is no reason why Ceylon, with 200,000 acrus planted with Position of Aririculture and Trade. 89 tea, should not by and by supply between sixty and seventy million pounds of tea of the best qualities for the markets of the world. CHAPTEK IX. WHAT THE PLANTING INDUSTRY HAS DONE FOB THE MOTHER-COUNTRY. Keoent yeais of depression considered — Planting profits absorbed is THE PAST by Home capitalists — Absence of reserves of local wealth — Xlie accumulated profits of past years estimated. The recent financial depression and scarcity of capital in Ceylon can readily be understood when a succession of bad coffee seasons, involving a deficiency iu the planters' harvests of that product equal to many millions of pounds sterling, is taken into consideration. There have been periods of de- pression before in the history of the Ceylon planting enterprise, and these, curiously enough, have been noted to come round in cycles of eleven years. Thus, in 1845, wild speculation in opening plantations, followed by a great fall in the price of coffee and a collapse of credit, arrested progress for a time; in 1856-7, a sharp financial shock affected the course of prosperity which had set in ; and again, in 1866-7, the fortunes of coffee fell to so low an ebb that a London capitalist, who visited the island, said the most striking picture of woe-begone misery he saw was the typical " man who owned a coffee estate." Tlte Benefit to the Mother -Counti-y. 91 Yet this was followed by good seasons and bounteous coffee harvests. The depression which set in during 1879, was, however, the most prolonged and trying. True, agriculture nearly all over the world has been suffer- ing from a succession of bad harvests, more particu- larly in the mother-country; but there are certain grave distinctions between the conditions of a tropical colony and lands in a temperate zotie. In Ceylon a generation among European colonists has usually been considered not to exceed ten years — not at all on account of mortalityj for the hills of Ceylon have the perfection of a healthy climate, but from the constant changes in the elements of the Em'opean community — the coming and going which in the past made such a distinct change in the broad elements of society every ten or certainly every fifteen years. Those colonists who made fortunes in coffee in the island — only 10 per cent, of the whole body of planters, however — did not think of making it their permanent, home. The capitalist who sent out his money for investment got it back as soon as possible. The "accumulated profits" made durmg the time of prosperity, which at home form a reserve fund of local wealth to enable the sufferer from present adversity to benefit by past earnings, were utterly wanting in Ceylon. We had no reserve fund of past profits to fall back upon, no class of wealthy Euro- peans enriched by former times of }3rosperity living amongst us and circulating the lic^uidated products of former industry, when the period of adversity and depression arrived. Ceylon, in fact, in the best coffee days, used to be a sort of "incubator " to which capitalists sent then* 92 Ceijlon in the Jubilee Year. eggs to be hatched, and whence they received from time to time an abundant brood, leaving sometimes but the shells for our local portion. Money was sent out to Ceylon to fell its forests and plant them with •coffee, and it was returned in the shai^e of copious harvests to the home capitalist, leaving in some cases the bare hill-sides from whence these rich harvests were drawn. Had the profits from the abundant coffee crops in those past days been located here and invested in the country and its soil, a fund of local wealth might have existed when the lean years came, manufactures might now have been flourishing, a ■number of wealthy citizens of European origin might have been living in affluence, and we should have possessed resources to helj) us over the time of adversity and depression ! The total amount of coffee raised on the planta- tions of Ceylon since 1849 is about 19,000,000 cwt., and there were produced previously (esclndiug native coffee in both cases) about 1,000,000 cwt. at the least, making a grand total of coffee of 20,000,000 cwt. as the produce of imported capital. Including interest and all items of local cost, we may safely say that this coffee has been produced for £2 2s. per cwt., and has realized at the least .=£3 net on an average ; it has therefore earned a net profit of £18,000,000. The coffee so produced has been yielded by planta- tions of not more than 320,000 acres in the aggre- gate, after including a due allowance for lands abandoned ; and the average cost of the estates, including the purchase of the land, has certainly not exceeded £25 per acre, involving a total capital of £8,000,000. There should therefore have been a sum of £10,000,000 of liquidated profit returned to llie Benefit to the Mother-Country. 93- the capitalist, besides the refund of his principal, and there would still remain the existing plant of say 200,000 acres of land under cultivation by means of the said capital, worth at least £10 per acre, or altogether £2,000,000— thus showing a total profit, of £12,000,000. Looking at some tracts of land which have been relegated to weeds and waste — ^tracts which for long years poured forth rich harvests for their owners — the question will force itself upon us :: What would now have been the -condition of these lands if their owners had been settled on thfem, and their families, homesteads, and accumulated profits- had remained to enrich the island ? Possibly the lands now waste would have been flourishing farms, whose natural fertility would have- been maintained, or probably increased, by fostering care and scientific treatment, and they might long, ago have been covered with other tropical products wherever the old "King Coffee " had been dethroned; by age or sickness. Where, so far as the planters are concerned, is now the fruit of these wasted lands ? Is it not, we- may ask, absorbed in the wealth of the mother- country, swelling its plethora of resources and luxury?' Hence comes it that, though Ceylon can show many outward and -visible signs of material wealth since the* establishment of the planting enterprise, in a greatly- increased revenue, great -public works, railways, roads,- harbour works, tanks, irrigation cfl,nals, and public buildings, and in a native population greatly raised in the scale of civilization and in personal and home- comforts, yet there is scarcely a wealthy European in the island. Eiches have been heaped up elserwhere^ — that is, in the mother-country— out of Ceylon ;i 94 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year while there are no large local incomes (save among a limited number of natives) to meet the era of short crops and financial disasters which began in 1879. Of course, we are now looking at the Ceylon plant- ing enterprise from the colonial point of view. "When a financial crisis comes, and home capitalists find they cannot realize and sell their property through the absence of local purchasers, they are apt to speak disparagingly of the colony which has done so much for their brethren, if not for themselves, in years gone by, and which will yet give a good return on capital invested in the future. Fortunately, within the past generation, a consider- able change has taken place in the conditions of planting in Ceylon, An unusually large number of younger sons, and others with a certain amount of capital of their own, have settled in the higher and healthier districts — possessing in fact one of the finest climates in the world — forming comparatively per- manent homes, in the midst of their tea as well as coffee and cinchona fields. The number of resident proprietary and of married planters has largely in- creased within the past twenty years, notwithstanding depression and difficulty, and with the return of pros- perity, further settlement in this way may be antici- pated. As regards the native cultivation of exportable articles, the profits from sis or seven million cwt. of native-grown coffee shipped, and from cinnamon, coir, coconut oil, plumbago, &c., have of course come back and enriched the people in a way which is visible on all sides, and is more j)articularly striking to old colonists. There is a very large number of wealthy native gentlemen enriched by trade and agriculture The Benefit to the Mother- O'ountrij. 95 -within British times, and nearly all the property in ihe large towns, as well as extensive planted areas, belong to them ; -while, as regards the labouring ■classes, the artizans and carters, the benefit conferred by planting expenditure will be more particularly referred to in our next chapter. CHAPTEE J. \VHAT THE PLANTING INDUSTRY HAS DONE FOE CEYLON. Popalation nearly doubled — Eevenue quadrupled — Trade expanded sixteen to twenty fold — ^Employment afforded to natives — An EI ■ Dorado for the Indiim immigrant — Coffee in the past, as tea in the future, the mainstay of the island — The material progress in the ;^lanting districts. What British capital and the planting enterprise have done for Ceylon ■would require an essay in itself to describe adequately. In 1837, when the pioneer coffee planters begfth work, Ceylon was a mere military dependency, with a Revenue amounting to £372,000,. or less than the expenditure, costing the mother- country a good round sum every year, the total population not exceeding one' and a half million, but requiring well-nigh 6,000 British and native troops to- keep the peace. Now we have the population increased to very nearly the three millions, with only about 1,000 troops, largely paid for out of a revenue averaging £1,500,000^ and a people far better housed, cloii^d, and fed,- better educated and cared for in every way. The total import and export trade since planting began has expanded from half a miUion sterling in value tO' The Planting Iniustry and Ceylon. 97 from eight to ten millio0g sterling, according to the harvests. During the for'.y.five years referred to some thirty to forty millions stcirfing have heen paid away in wages earned in coniiection with plantations to Kandyan axemen, Tamil coolies, Sinhalese carpenters, domestic servants, and ca-ters. A great proportion of this has gone to benefit Southern India, the home of the Tamil coolies, of wh.im .close on 200,000 over and above the usual labour supply were saved from starvation in Ceylon during lihe Madras famine of 1877-8. In fact, Ceylon at that time, mainly through its planters, contributed nearly as much aid to her big neighbour as the total of the " Mansion House Fund " subscribed in the Unite(4 Kingdom. According to official papers tb ere are sixteen millions of people in Southern India whose annual earnings, taking grain, &c., at its full value, do not average per family of five more than ^3 12s., or Is. 6d. per month — equal to ^d. per head per day. iDcredible as this may appear, it is true, although with better times now perhaps Id. would be a safe rate per ciaput. No wonder that to such a people the planting cotmtry of Ceylon, when, all was prosperous, was an El Dorado, for each family could there earn from 9s. to 12s. per week, and save from half to three-quarters the amount. The immigrant coolie labourers have suffered of late years from the short crops and depression Uke their masters, but now, with the revival of profitable industry through tea, with medical care provided, cheap food, comfortable huts, and vegetable gardens, few labouring classes in the world are better off. Nor ought we to forget the Tamil Coolie Mission which is doing a good work in educating and Christianizing many amongst the Tamil coolies, mainly supported as it is by the planters. 8 98 Ceylon in the /ubilee Year. Our calculation is that frpm each acre of coffee or tea land kept in full cultivation in Ceylon five natives (men, women, and childri^n) directly or indirectly derive their means of sub'^istence. It is no wonder then that, with a populatic^i increased in the planting «ra by seventy to eighty per cent., four to five times the quantity of cotton cloth is consumed, and ten times the quantity of i'ood-stuffs imported. As a contrast must be mentioned a calculation made re- specting the British pifjneers of planting — the men who worked say from 1837 «o 1870 — which showed that only one-tenth of these ber^efited themselves materially by coming to Ceylon. Niuety per cent, lost their money, health, or even life itself. Latterly the experience is not so sad, especially an respect of health. The British governors of Ceylon have repeatedly acknowledged that tP^ planting enterprise is the mainstay of the isl^'sid. None have more forcibly shown this than Go'TCrnor Sir ^William Gregory, who, in answui: lo ti-o i-emark that the general revenue of the coloif'y was being burdened with charges for railway extension and harbour works, benefiting chiefly the planting industry, said: "What, I would ask, is the basis of the whole prosperity of Ceylon but the planting enterprise ? What gave me the surplus revenues, by which 1 was able to make roads and bridges all over the island, causeways at Mannar and Jaffna, to make grants for education and to take measures to educate the masses — in short, to promote the general industry and enterprise of the island from Jaffna to Galle — but the results of the capital and energy engaged in the cultivation of coffee ? It follows, therefore, that, in encouraging the great planting enterprise, I shall be furthering the genera^ The Planting Industry and Ceylon. 99 interests of the colony." Sir William Gregory was able to create a new province in Ceylon, entirely occupied by the poorest and previously most neglected class of natives — namely, the North-Central Province — with roads, bridges, buildings, forest clearings, and irrigation works, solely by the surplus revenues obtained from the planting enterprise. The pioneer planter introduces into regions all but nnknown to man a host of contractors, who in their turn bring in a. train of pedlars, tavern-keepers, and others, eager to profit by the expenditure about to take place. To the contractors succeed the Malabar coolies, the working bees of the colony, who plant and cultivate the coffee, and at a subsequent period reap the crop. Each of these coolies consumes monthly a bushel uf rice, a quantity of salt and other condiments, and occasionally cloth, arrack, &c., the import, transport, and purchase of which find em- ployment for the merchant, the retail dealer, the carrier, and their servants ; and, again, the wants of these functionaries raise around them a race of shop- keepers, domestics, and others, who, but for the success of coffee planting, would have been unable to find equally profitable employment. Nor are the results bounded by the limits of the colony. The import of articles consumed gives em- ployment to hundreds of seamen and to thousands of tons of shipping that, but for this increased trade, would never have been built. The larger demand for rice stimulates and cheers the toil of the Indian ryot ; the extended use of clothing stimulates the Manchester spinners and weavers and all dependent on them ; and the increased demand for the implements of labour tells on Birmingham and Sheffield, which also 100 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. benefit, as regards the tea industry, by the demand for varied machinery, for sheet lead, hoop iron, and a host of other requisites. Who shall say where the links of the chain termiiiate, affecting as they do in- directly all the great branches of the human family ? Then again, when the estate becomes productive, how many of the foregoing agencies are again called into operation. On arrival in Colombo the parchment coffee is usually peeled, winnowed, and sized by powerful steam machinery ; cinchona bark is packed by hydraulic machines, while it is often re-bulked and re-fired, agencies which provide employment for engineers, smiths, stokers, wood-cutters, &c. Colombo "stores " in their best days (mainly through the drying, picking, and sorting of coffee) gave occu- pation to thousands 6i the industrious poor natives, and enabled them to support an expenditure for food, clothing, and other necessaries, the supply of which further furnished profitable employment to the shop- keeper, merchant, seaman, &c. This is of course still true to a large extent, lie fact, it is impossible . to pursue in all their ramifications the benefits derived from the cultivation of the fragrant berry which has become the staple product of Ceylon. Other results, too, there are — moral ones — such as must sooner or later arise from the infusion of Anglo- Saxon energy and spirit into' an Eastern people, from the spread of the English language, and, what is of more importance still, the extension of civilization and Christianity. The material change in the planting districts and the Central Province of Ceylon within the last fifty years has been marvellous. Villages and towns have appeared where all was barren waste or thick jungle ; / The PlanUng Ind/uttry and Ceylon. 101 roads have been cut in all directions ; and prosperous 'villages have sprung up like magic in " The Wilderness of the Peak." Gampola, Badnlla, and M^tale^ which each consisted of a rest-house and a few huts, and Nawalapitiya, which had no existence at all in 1837, are now populous towns ; while Panwila, Tel- deniya, Madnlkelle, Deltota, Haldummulla, Lunu- guUa, Passera, Welliniadde, Balangoda, Eatotte, Eakwana, Yatiantotte, &c., are more than villages. Some of the planting grant-in-aid 'roads, carried through what was dense forest or waste land, are lined for miles with native houses and boutiques, as also with native cultivation in gardens or fields. The change cannot be better described than in the words of the Eev. Spence Hardy, of the Wesleyan Mission, who, after spending twenty-two years in Cieylon, between 1825 and 1847, returned to England, and re- visited the island in 1862. Mr. Hardy was accustomed to travel through nearly all the Sinhalese districts. Writing in 1864, he says :— " Were some Sinhalese appuhami to arise, 'who had gpne down to the grave fifty years ago, and from that time remained uncon- scious, he would not know his own land or people ; and when told where, he was he would scarcely believe his eyes, and would have some difficulty with his ears; for though there would be the old language, even- that -would be mixed with many words that to him would be utterly unintelligible. Looking at his own country- men, he would say that in his time both the head and the feet were uncovered, but that now they cover both'; or perhaps he would think that the youths whom he saw with stockings and shoes and caps were of some other nation. He would be shocked at the heedlessness with which appus and nai4as and every- 102 Ceylon in the Jvibilee Year. body else roll along in their bullock-bandies ; passing even the carriage of the-white man whenever they are able by dint_of tail-pulling or hard blows ; and when he saw the horsekeepers riding by the side of their masters and sitting on the same seat, there would be some expression of strong indignation. He would listen in vain for the ho-he-voh of the palanquin- bearers and their loud shouts, and would look in vain for the torn Johns and doolies, and for the old lascoreens with their talipots and formal dress. He would be surprised at seeing so many women walking in the road and laughing and talking together like men, but with no burdens dn their heads and nothing in their hands, and their clothes not clean enough for them to be going to the temple. He would perhaps complain of the hard road, as we have heard a native gentle- man from Kalpitiya do, and say that soft sand was much better. He would wonder where all the tiles, come from for so many houses, and would think that the high-caste families must have multiplied amaz- ingly for them to require so many stately mansions ; and the porticoes, and the round white pillars, and the trees growing in the compound, bearing nothing but long thin thorns, or with pale yellow lieavea ^instead of green ones, would be objects of great attraction. He would fancy that the Moormen must have increased at a great rate, as he would take the tall chimneys of the coffee stores to be the minareta of mosques, until he saw the smoke proceeding from them, and then he would be puzzled to know what they could be. In the bazaar he would stare at the policemen and the potatoes and the loaves of bread, and a hundred other things that no bazaar ever saw in his day. And the talk about planters and bar- The Planting Indmstry and Ceylon. 103 bacues, coolie iminigratioii, and the overland and penny postage, and bishops and agents of Govern- ment, and the legislative council and banks, news- papers and mail-coaches, wonld confuse him by the strangeness of the terms. He would listen incredu- lously when told that there is no rajakariya, or forced labour, and no fish tax ; and that there are no slaves, and that you can cut down a ciimamon tree in your own garden without having to pay a heavy fine. Bemembering that when Governor North made the tour of the island, he was accompanied by 160 palanquin-bearers, 400 coolies, 2 elephants, and 50 lascoreens, and that when the adigar ^haelapola visited Colombo he had with him a retinue of a thousand retainers, and several elephants, he would think it impossible that the governor could go on a tour of inspection, or a judge on circuit, without white olas lining the roadside, and triumphal arches, and javelin n^en, and tomtoms, and a vast array of attendants. He would ask, perhaps, what king now reigns in Eandy, and whether he had mutilated any more of the subjects of Britain. From these supposed surprises, we may learn something of the changes that have taken place in the island, but we cannot teE a tithe of the whole." If this was true when the veteran missionary wrote in 1862, the picture migat well be heightened and intensified by the experiences of 1887, for the progress in- the second half of our good Queen's reign among the people of Ceylon is not less remarkable than it was between 1837 and 1862. As to the comparative freedom from poverty and suffering which distinguishes the lower classes, the vast masses of the natives of Ceylon, it must be 104 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. remembered that they live as a nde in the most genial of climates, where saffering from cold is im- possible, and the' pangs of hunger are abnost unknown, little more than a few plantain^ a day being'snffieient to support life in idleness, if so chosen. Sir Eiiward COFFJEE. V A. The AsABiAN, or East African ; B. Xfae Libeitian, or West Afiiean; %ith Coolie attendant employed to shoot squirrels, rats, or hues or Bombay. But the delay in the transaction of shipping business, owing to the prevalence of a heavy surf and a stiff breeze during monsoon months, was more than suffi- Present Prospects for Capitalists in Ceylon. 107 cien*, to justify the very substantial breakwater and allied harbour works which, under the direction of Sir John Coode and his representative, Mr. Kyle, have just been successfully completed at Colombo. The capital of Ceylon is now the great central mail and commercial steamer port of the East. All the large steamers of the P. and 0. Company, the British India, Star, Ducal, and most of the Messageries, Nord-Deutscher Lloyds, Austro-Hungarian Lloyds, Eubattino, the Clan, Glen, City, Ocean, Anchor, Holts, and other lines for Europe.-India, China, the Straits, and Australia, call at Colombo regularly. One consequence of this^ valuable to the merchant and planter, is the regular and cheap freight offered to the world's markets. Freights now do not average one-half of the rates prevalent some years ago. There is no trojHcal land — indeed there are few countries anywhere— so thoroughly served by rail- ways and roads, canals and navigable streams, as are the principal districts of Ceylon at the present day. The means of cheap transport b,etween the interior and the coast (a few remote districts only excepted) are unequalled in the tropics. Indian tea-planters confess that their Ceylon brethren have a great advantage over them in this respect, and still more so in the abundant supply of good, steady, cheap labour, trained by long experience to plantation work. A morte forcing climate, too, than that of Ceylon does not exist under the sun ; while now that the country is fully opened, the risks to health are infinitesimal compared with those of pioneers in new coimtries or of the tea-planters in the Terai of India. Whatever may be said of the inimical effects of bad seasons on coffee — too much rain at blossoming time — there can 108 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. be no doubt of the advantage of abundance of mois!iure and heat for tea, and it is in respect of the fitness 'of large tracts of undeveloped country for tea pro- duction that we would especially ask for the attention of British capitalists. Indian tea-planters, who have come to see how tea is growing in Ceylon, confess that we are bound to beat Northern India. Tea, of as good quality as that from Assam, can be placed on board ship at Colombo for a good deal less per pound than Indian tea on board ship at Calcutta. This has been proved, although Ceylon planters have not long begun the systematic cultivation and preparation of tea. But tea (although the principal) is only one among a list of valuable tropical products which Ceylon is well fitted to grow. As a body, Ceylon planters are among the most in- telligent, gentlemanly, and hospitable of any colonists in British dependencies. The rough work of pioneer- ing in the early days before there were district roads, villages, supplies, doctors, or other comforts of civili- zation, was chiefly done by hard-headed Scots : men bivouacked in the trackless jungle .with the scantiest accommodation under tropical rains lasting for weeks together, with rivers swollen to flood-level and im- passable, while food supplies often rah short, as none could be got aciross the wide torrents. All these and many other similar experiences are of the past in the settled planting districts of Ceylon, although there are outlying parts where pioneers can still rough it to their hearts' contentl In the hill-country the pioneers about twenty years ago began to be succeeded by quite a different class of men. Younger sons vnth a capital, present or prospective, of a few thousand Present Prospects for Capitalists in Ceylon. 109 pounds, educated at public schools, and many of them University men, found an opening in life on Ceylon plantations far more congenial than that of the Australian bush or the backwoods of Canada, Of course some of these did not succeed as planters, as they probably would not succeed at anything in the colonies ; but for well-inclined young men of the right stamp, not afraid of hard work, Ceylon still presents an opening as planters of tea, cinchona, cacao, &c., provided the indispensable capital is available. [The usual mode, and the safe one, is to send the young man fresh from home, through the intro- duction of some London or Colombo firm, to study his business as a planter, and to learn the colloquial Tamil spoken by the coolies, under an experienced planter for two or three years. In prosperous times such young assistants were taught and boarded free in return for their help, and began to earn a salary after a year or so. Now, a fee for board and teaching (£50, or at most £100 for a year) may be needful. Nowhere in the whole wide world can young men learn so thoroughly the mysteries of coffee, tea, cinchona planting, &c., or be so well equipped as tropical agriculturists as in Ceylon. Ceylon planters and machinists have taught the rest of, the tropics how to grow and prepare coffee properly; more is known in it about the mysteries of cinchona bark culture than anywhere else ; the Ceylon tea-planter is likely, ere long, to beat both India and China in the race for fine teas. Ceylon cacao beans have already sold highest in the London market, just as she sends thither the finest cinnamon, coconut-oil, f^ 2 Q 9 iz; K ^ !;4 SI S '3 §^ « O SrH ooooooooo ooooooo oooooooo S W >2 Q J. (B 55 ooooo ooo o o oo o fOQOOoogooooo OQOQOOOOOOOO Ca k^o'wTo c^O O O CD la O cTo '^ usoQOi-Hu'Sio-^oasnsiOioso ooo oo o o too o oo o O Q O « O O ^^o oiooo o"?©© OCOOO -i< W5 1— ( 5D i-< O lO . C> .3 • S"3~ • Sa.SS| c a m o'O S OaOH -», g 01 fl 3 =>■§ ^5 » Q § a a> 3 -3 'S ° '^ 5 OOPS 01 « I to CO g ch 22 CO "^ a o ■So s-a 3;gS ■S 3^ * S'3 O Pf CD P4KP4 I o S I CHAPTER XIV. WHAT ITS GOVERNMENT CAN DO FOB CEYLON. Active and independent Administrators required — The obstruction to progress offered in Downing Street — Railway extension, and Graving Dock at Colombo, urgently called for — Law reform needed — Technical, industrial, and agricultural education needs encouraging — The Buddhist Temporalities question^Fiscal re- tormof Road, Excise laws, Salt monopoly, Food taxes and Customs duties — The Duke of Buckingham's Ceylon and Southern India railway project — Ceylon and India — Waste Crown lands. As regards the wants of Ceylon, its government is a paternal despotism ; and the Governor and Secretary of State (with his Colonial Office advisers) being to a great extent irresponsible rulers, much depends on their treatment of the island. There can be no doubt that in the past, progress has been made in spite of, rather than with, the prompt, zealous co- operation of Downing Street. In support of this view we would quote from a review in the London Spectator (January 1, 1887) of Mr. Salmon's " Crown Colonies of Great Britain " : — " The system of Crown Colonies is supposed to be that of a benevolent despotism, a paternal autocracy. It is in many cases that of a narrow and selfish olig- archy. It is supposed that the Colonial Office eser- 138 Ceylon in the Juhil^e Year. cises a beneficial supervision, and is everywhere the guardian angel of the bulk of the population in all the British Colonies. The supposition that a few Civil Servants, most of whom have never lived out of England, or engaged in any trade or business but that jof clerks in the Colonial Office, could really exercise any such power, is extravagant on the face of it. There, are more than thirty Crown Colonies, as various and widely scattered as Hong Kong, Fiji, Cyprus, Malta, Heligoland, Jamaica, Honduras, Ceylon, and Sierra Leone. How could any body of officials in London, however large; highly educated, and capable, adequately exercise any form of real control or intelli- gent supervision over such a mixed lot of disjecta membra'? As for the Secretary of State, who is changed, on the average, once a year, it is impossible that he can be more than a figure-head, or have any real vo^ce in the determination of anything except large questions of policy when there is Colonial trouble. Parliament is, however, supposed to exercise a control." But this control is limited, as Mr. Salmon points out, to questions put from time to time in the House of Commons, the answers to which are supplied in the first instance by the same Colonial Office clerks, and in the last resort by the people who are to be con- trolled, the actual administrators of the various Colonies. We do not approve, of much • in Mr. Salmon's volume, especially in reference to Ceylon, which he has never visited, we believe, and of the circumstances of which he is necessarily to a great extent, ignorant. But we have had sad experience in Ceylon of the terrible loss of time^ money and patience (equivalent to loyalty), increased through the obstructions offered What its Government can do for Ceylon. 13& to ■well-considered local schemes of progress, by the per- manent officials of the Colonial Office speaking through the nominal and temporary Secretary of State. An active, energetic, independent Governor, how- ever, exercises an immense influence, especially if he is at the same time frank, free from any weakness for inquisitorial, underhand proceedings, and ia-inflexibly just. Every department of the public service, indeed almost everj- individual officer, feels the effect of such a ruler's presence, just as the -svhole administrative machinery goes to rest and rust in this tropical isle ■when the fountain-head of authority and honour is found to be somnolent and indifferent himself. Statesmen bred in the free air of the House of Commons, as a rule, make the best governors of Crown Colonies ; at least three or four in the Ceylon list — GoYernors Wilmot Horton, Stewart Mackenzie, Sir Henry Ward, and Sir William Gregory — had such a training, and stand out pre-eminently as among her best administrators, although equally able and useful ■were two others — Governors Sir Edward Barnes and Sir Hercules Eobinson — who had not home parlia- mentary experience. Ceylon wants a governor like Sir Henry Ward or Sir William Gregory, who has his ■whole heart in his ■work, is ready to sympathize ■with all classes and races, to see provinces, districts, and public works for him- self — by journeys on horseback wher^ necessary — open to receive counsel as to proposed legislation from the most diverse quarters, Avhile deciding for himself after giving it due consideration ; a Governor, moreover, not easily led awaj' in his councils or provinces by officers, it may be of long experience but with special " hobbies," nor bj' oriental gossip and 140 Ceylon ' in ihe J^c^Uef. Tear, ^mpii^tait which if ^te Ssfoidd to leads^into oa$ qttftgmire aiter ano&^r. & ^Botdd lilsd. apply as faj: as pbiBibfothe cpxaiaereaii* Jrindiple " Will it pay f " io ftU proposed expenditure of any considerable aMOTUit. Ti^ether ^ roads, irrigation works, or rail- ways. Such an adimnistrator ^11 always be the best gifCthat j^ritain can offer to the natives and colonists ■^ Geylon, provided that his. hands are not tied by the ^ partial, intelligent person can doubt that mi|ch loss to both the districts concerned and the public tetenoe has resulted from the delay. An ordinance to providid' for this Extension passed by the Legislative Coun^ M January^ 1886, has not yet been Sanctioned by' ttiS Secretary of State, and a variety of excuses'-^cMt^Ay the state of the revenue — being offered fbr-the dBlAjfi'^, What its Government can do for Ceylon. 141 though a sure way to depress the revenue is to deny and delay this all-profitable section of Eailway Extension. Sir Arthur Gordon has, as some people think, written almost too strongly on the subject ; but as yet without avail. Such is government from Downing Street. Another very profitable and equally delayed Eailway Extension is that from Kalutara to Galle or even Motara ; and very promising proposals include a branch line from Veyangode towards Euwanwela; a line from Heneratgoda to Negombo and thence to Chilau, and Extension from Polgahawela to Kurunegala and on via Anuradhapura to Ja£fua. A more immediately urgent public work is the construction of a Graving Dock for Colombo Harbour, which has the express favour of the Lords of the Admiralty and of the Colombo Chamber of Commerce, and would be certain to prove a most useful and remunerative work. Nearly all these proposals in fact come under the head of reproductive undertakings. A public loan for the the more pressing of these works — ^the Uva and Galle Eailway Extensions and the Graving Dock — may well be voted urgent, and we trust to see all these undei*- takings under construction very shortly. Eemembering that the colony within twenty-five years has paid, almost entirely through its planting enterprise, the whole cost of the grand Colombo and Kandy railway, with the seaside and Nawalapitiya branches — in aU 120 miles, amounting to two and a half millions sterling, now the free property of the Ceylon Government; also that the harbour and waterworks (costing over a million sterling) are likely to pay their own way ; that the splendid network of roads and series of restored irrigation tanks and public buildings (costing six ^million pounds sterling) have 142 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. all been paid for from general revenue, there should be little hesitation in adding another three-quarters of, or a million pounds sterling to the debt of Ceylon — the whole debt even then not l?eing much more than two years' revenue — in order to enable the above undertakings to be carried out. We niay here call 'attention to the railway map of the island, illustrating the system existing and pro- jected, with needful statistics.* It ^hows at a glance the Ceylon Government EaUways completed; the Extensions surveyed, estimated, and, we may add, officially proinised; other /Extensions projected but not finally surveyed ; also possible lines which may be made eventually ; together with lines projected but abandoned. Among the lines projected, next to the Haputale and BaduUa Extension in importance are the Extension of the seaside line from Kalutara to Bentotta, nine miles ready for construction, and thence a distance of about thirty-four miles to Galle on almost a dead level, for which there can be little doub^ of the existence of a profitable passenger and goods traffic ; secondly, the construction of a light line from a point at or near Veyangode towards Euwan- w^la to serve the new and rapidly developing tea districts in thati neighbourhood — and a branch which would prove a useful feeder to the main line, while it relieved one of the most expensively kept up roads in the country — namely, that via Hanwela and Avisawela, of a good deal of heavy traffic ; thirdly, a branch from Heneratgoda, to Negombo, and possibly on to Chilau for the ^alt traffic ; fourthly, a branch from Polagahawela to JKurunegala, the capital of the North- Western province,. which was proposed so far *- iSe« Appendix XVI. What its Government can do for Ceylon. 143 back as the time-of Sir Hercules Eobinson, and for which we believe there would also be a remunerative traffic ; to be extended eventually via Dambula and Anuradhapura to Jaffna, Manaar, and perhapfe by and by to Trincomalee. We would fui-ther call attention to the table of railway statistics given with the map, showing that notwithstanding last year being a time of a specially short coffee crop and depression, the total profit from all the Government lines, including that to Matale,was no less than El, 139,621 (after covering the year's working expenses and certain permanent improve- ments to the lines, or the equivalent of nearly 4 per cent, on the capital cost of the 181 miles of railway open ; and this, be it remembered, although the full return on the large cost of the Nanu oya railway can never be obtained until the new Uva traffic is brought into it by the extension to Haputale. We would merely add that all but. the Matale and Nanu-oya branches, or 121 J miles, are the free property of the colony ; and the fact that the cost of this length has; mainly been defrayed through the planting enter- prise is another and forcible argument for urging the extension of relief to one of the most important provinces of the island and by far the richest of the planting districts. Indeed a progressive policy in Eailway Extension generally is urgently called for. In legislative and social improvements there is much to do : law reform in improved Mortgage, Bankruptcy, and other measures-^in fact, the codifi- cation of pur Civil Laws:— is urgently wanted; while. education, especially in, the .Yernacftlar, has to be pr(jn^ot^4' Still piere needful is a system, of technical, in.-.. 144 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. dustrial, and agricultural education. Something has been done towards a beginning in agricultural teach- ing by the present Director of Public Instruction with the limited means at his disposal ; but we can only speak ot this as "a beginning." It is felt by many that Ceylon junior civil servants, like those of Java, should pass at an agricultural college and spend one or two years on arrival in the island at Government experimental' gardens or plantations. The influence of the personal example and precept of the revenue o&cers of Government over the head men and people in getting them to try new products or extend culti- vation is immense; experimental gardens to supply the natives with plants and seeds and to show them how to cultivate the same, ought to be multiplied and bonuses offered for the growth of certain qualities of new products in different districts. Another beneficial reform would be the establishment of an agri-horti- cultural exhibition, with holidays and sports for the people, in connexion with each Kachcheri (district station) in. the island. The people of Ceylon are perhaps the least warlike of any nation under British rule : not a sol(tier has sustained a scratch here since 1817, when the Eandyan kingdom was finally subdued. Street riots in Colombo through religious lends or deamess of rice, at rare intervals, only require the sight of a red-coat to subside; a few artillerymen (a picked company of the local volunteers would do) with a light field-gun would be sufficient to cope with the most formidable gathering that could possibly take place as a breach of the peace. Nevertheless, it is important to note that for imperial purposes Ceylon is a most central and useful What its Government can do for Ceylon. 145 station for even more than one regiment of infantry with a good stafif. This will be' readily seen from what has happened during the past twenty-five years. Sir Henry Ward sent the 87th Begiment at a day's notice to Calcutta in 18S7 to the aid of, Lord Canning against the mutineers, those troops being the first to arrive; in 1863 the troopship Himalaya took the SQth Eegiment from Ceylon to New Zealand to aid in suppressing the Maoris ; later on, part of the Ceylon garrison did good service in China, the Straits, and Labuan ; in 1879 the 57th Eegiment was despatched at short notice to Natal ; and, with equal expedition, the 102nd was sent thither in 1881, when tbe colony was practically denuded of infantry without the slightest inconvenience. Ceylon is by far the most central British military garrison in the East; its first-class port, Colombo, is distant 900 miles from Bombay, 600 from Madras, 1,400 from Calcutta, 1,200 from Eangoon (Burmah), 1,600 from Singapore, 2,500 from Mauritius, a little more from Madagascar, about 4,000 from Natal, 3,000 from Hong-Kong, 3,000 from Freemantle or Western Australia, and about 2,500 from Aden. , Its value, therefore, as a station from whence troops can, at the shortest notice, be transferred to any one of these points, should mike it the Malta of the Eastern Seas ; indeed its hill station, served by railway, as already mentioned, might be made the sanatarium for all the troops in ^uthern India. Ceylon tax-payers would also fain see the head- quarters of the East India naval station removed from Trincomalee to Colombo, for the good of the port, now that first-class harbour works have been constructed ; and this would probably be done if only 11 146 Ceylon in the. Jubilee Year. the construction of a G^raving Dock were taken in hand. There are legislative reforms urgently needed in connection with the wide area of valuable lands with which the Kandyan Buddhist temples are endowed, and the revenues of which are now utterly wasted by priests and headmen without any benefit to the people, the majority of whom would gladly vote for their appropriation to the promotion of vernacular and technical, especially agricultural, education in each district. It is recorded that King Wijayo Bahu III., who reigned in Ceylon in 12^0 a.d., established a school in every village, and charged the priests who superintended them, to take nothing from the pupils, promising that he himself would reward them for their trouble. This was probably done by temple endowments now wasted. In the more distant future the intelligent public of Ceylon hopefully look for- ward to the time when a reconstruction if not miti- gation of taxation may take plac;e, the road tax, some stamp duties, and the salt monopoly being the first to be modified or abolisTied. The small annual levy under the Eoads or Thoroughfares Ordinance on every able- bodied man between eighteen and fifty-five in the island (the Governor, Buddhist priests, and a few more, alone excepted) has been productive of much good — in providing a network of district roads — since it was drafted by the late Sir Philip Wode- house over forty years ago. But in some districts, the tax, small as it is, leads to a good deal of trouble and expense through defaulters ; and its col- lection is everywhere, event in the towns, attended with an immense amount of corruption and oppres- sion. This is the case with all direct taxes in an What its Government can do for Ceylon. 147 Oriental land, and therefore an indirect levy in any form would undoubtedly be an unmitigated blessing to the people. Certain Stamp Duties were raised by Sir Arthur Gordon in 1885, and experience has shown that mischief rather than good has resulted. A liberal revision and reform of local Postal and Tele- graphic rates and rules is much required, and a modification, if not abolition, of the Salt tax would be a great boon. This tax, though scarcely felt by the mass, debars agricultural improvement in certai^ directions, and occasionally affects the health of the people in the remoter districts. In the estimation of the reformers of the Cobden Club, as put forth in Mr. Salmon's book already referred to, there is a financial reform of greater im- portance than any of these, namely, the abolition of the "Food-taxes of Ceylon," or the levy made on locally-grown grain crops, and the Customs duty imposed on imported rice. But while the internal tax has been inherited from the Sinhalese rulers as a rent, the only substitute possible for both this and the Customs duty is a general land-tax, and against this the whole body of the natives would cry out. One of the most intelligent Sinhalese, the late Hon. James Alwis, M.L.C., opposing this proposal, said, "it would be equivalent to taxing the curry, as well as the rice of the people." The lands held by colonists could, of course, be taxed, though, having bought their properties in freehold, their position is rather different from that of planters in India. But the natives would resist any change in every way they possibly could, and even the Dutch, as well as the English, were baffled in trying to make a small levy on the coconut gardens of the SiohalesQ, and had to abandon 148 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. it.* Of late years, the rent or tax on rice lands has been greatly lowered, and opportonities for oppres- sion by headmen removed, by Sir Wm. Gregory's, system of commntation ; and Sir Arthur Gordon has gone to the verge of imprudence by legislating for a, certain portion oJf this rent being annually appro- priated by an Irrigation Board foi the special benefit of the grain-growers. The section of the community paying the imj)ort duty, as indeed all consumers of taxed grain, may fairly complain and ask that some- thing should be done for them from the import levy^ which, as it now stands, is really protective of the. local farmers. In principle, the rice taxes are fair — Stuart Mm being witness — and the heaviest por- tion of the tax is borne by the planters and their coolie labourers, who depend almost entirely on im- ported rice, while untaxed fruits, vegetables, and roots, enter largely into the food of the Sinhalese and Ceylon Tamils. Fiscal reformers for Ceylon would do well to study the history of the fish-tax established by the Portuguese, continued by the Dutch, superseded by the British by a license for boats, which nearly stopped fishing altogether. The old form had to be resumed, but the tax was reduced again and again, without in the least benefiting the industry, for the fishermen simply caught less, having no longer duty to pay, and when the tax was finally abolished by Government, the Boman Catholic priests stepped in,, and continued it. * "Tliemost preeioas inheritance of a Sinhalese is his ancestral garden of coconuts ; the attempt to impose a tax on them in 1797, lOUsed the populace to lebellion, and it is curiously illustrative of that minute subdivision of property, that a case decided in the District Court of GaUe, referred ;to the 2,520th' part of 10 coco%utr trees. " — Emerson Tennent. What its Government can do for Ceylon. 149 ^thout demur from the fishermen, who are nlostly of that Church. In the same way, grain cultivators who have had their tax or rent remitted, have been known to allow a portion of their fields to go out of cultiva- tion in view of no rent to pay — so much less work to do was their idea of the benefit of remission of taxation. Of course the removal of aU Customs' duties and the inauguration of Colombo arf a free port.would add immensely to the importance, of Colombo and the colony. But the time for that is still afar off, even ij it were desirable in the interests of the native popu- lation. On the contrary, if all the revenues raised in such dependencies as India and Ceylon could he levied through the customs, the railway, or even stamps — by indirect means — the blessing to the ma^s of the people for some generations yet, would be one of the greatest that could be bestowed. When the grand scheme which the Duke of Buckingham, as Governor of Madras, propounded to Sir William Gregory, of coimecting the railway systems of Ceylon and Southern India, is carried out, in order to serve the very large passenger traffic in coolies and traders, as well as to carry the produce of Southern India to the safe and commodious Colombo harbour — ^the Madras harbour works being, at all events for the present, a great failure; — ^then may we look for a closer approximation between the fiscal systems oif the two countries. At present, India has no inlport tax on cotton goods — a very dubious reform in the interest of her people — but an export tax is levied on the rice shipped from Calcutta and Madras to Ceylon., One great difference between the two countries is the much larger Covenanted Civil Service, and 150 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. number of European officials generally, in Ceylon, in proportion to population and area, than in India.* Of course the individual salaries are much lower here^ but it is a question whether the island has not too many public servants of the higher ranks, and whether there is not room for reform in the system of administration such as was referred to by Sir Emerpon Tennent in his Financial Eeports over forty years ago. The peniion list of Ceylon is becoming a serious burden to the colony, and some steps are urgently called for to prevent a continuance of growth such as has been experienced of recent years. On the other hand the cry is getting up here, as in India, on behalf of the educated Ceylonese (natives and Burghers), that room should be found for a greater number of them in the public service. Schemes for a subordinate uncovenanted service have been propounded, both in their interest and in that of economy,' as saving the need for many principal appointments, and some step in this direction may be necessary before long. At the same time, in a country situated like Ceylon, agriculture in one of its * . Ceylon for its three millions of people'and 24,000 square mjle»' has more than half as many Civil Servants as the Presidency of Madras -with six times its area and ten times its population,. The foDoiring may be of general interest : — No. of Cove:. Area : Sq. Popula- nanted Civil miles. tion. Servants. Bengal ai^d Assam .. ,202,905 .. 72,000,000. .. 266 it.-W. Province . . . 106,111 . . 44,107,000 ••I 348 Ponjaub . . 106,632 . . 18,850,000 , Bombay .. 124,122 .. •16,500,000 .. 162 Madras... . . 139,900 . . 31,000,000 .. 157 Bnrmah (Upper and Lower) .. 278,000 .. e,7S6,6oo — Cetlon .. 25,000 .. 2,900,000 .. 81 What its Government can do for Ceylon. 161 many forms ought to be kept steadily before educated Burghers and natives alike, as the one sure means of affording a livelihood. Tea planting, we are glad to think, is likely to do much for young men of these classes: in the tea factories there should be room for a large number of intelligent young men of the country, as tea makers, clerks, &c., and very many of the natives ought to cultivate tea-gardens of their own, besides trying other new and profitable products. A reform tending to extend local industry would be the throwing open, for a merely nominal price, of Crown waste lands, at present unsaleable (at the upset price of E^IO per acre), to cultivators who would spend money and labour on them. This ap- plies to both low and high lands. A " stock farm " is a great want in Ceylon, yet an offer made by a responsible colonist to lease waste Crown lands near Nawara Eliya, and introduce good stock in cattle and horses from Australia, was rejected some years ago, because the fiat of the Secretary of State had decided that nothing should be done with Crown lands over 5,000 feet altitude. CHAPTEE XV. SOCIAL LIFE AND CUSTOMS. Social life apd customs of the natives of Ceylon — How little colonists may know of village life — Domestie servants — Caste restrictions — Curious occupations among the people — Sinhalese philanthropists, Messrs. De Soyza and Bajapakse. The variety of race, colour, physiognomy, and costume among the peopli in the busy streets of Colombo — especially the Pettah, or native market-place — at once ariftsts the attention of the stranger. But, save what he sees in the public highways, and may learn from his servants, the ordinary colonist may live many years in the island without learning much of the every- day life and habits of th^ people of the land, whether Sinhalese or Tamils, in their own villages and homes. There is a beaten track now for the European to follow, be , he merchant or planter, and there is so much of western civilization and education on the surface that the new comer is apt to forget very soon that he is in the midst of a people with an ancient civilization and authentic history of their own, extend- ing far beyond that of the majority of European nations ; and with social customs and modes of life, when separate from foreign influences, entirely distinct from anything to which he has been accustomed. The Social Life and Customs. 153 foreigners yrho see somewhat of this inner life of the people, especially in the rural distriets, are the civil servants and other public officers of Government, and the missionaries. Now; as regards the work of the latter, the average European planter or merchant returning home after six, tenj aye, or even twenty years in Ceylon, too often declares that the missionaries are making no way in Ceylon, that they live comfortably in the towns, and content themselves with ordinary pas- toral duties in their immediate neighbourhood, and in fact, that they (the colonists), never saw any evidence of mission work or progress among the natives, unless it were through the catechists and other ageiits of the Tamil Coolie Mission visiting the plantations. Now, the way to meet such a negative statement would be hy an inquiry as to whether the colonist had ever interviewed a missionary to the Tamils or Sinhalese, whether in Colombo, Eandy, or Galle, to go no further, and had asked to accompany him to his stations. Had he done so, he could have been taken to village after village, with its little church and good, if not full, attendance of members, presided over in many cases by pastors of their own people, and in some instances supported by themselves. He would have seen schools of all grades-emission boarding-schools for native girls and lads, and training institutions for the ministry. Now, just as this branch of work in the rural districts of Ceylon is unknown to many scores, if ndt hundreds, of European colonists who never trouble their heads about anything beyond their own round of immediate duties or pleasures ; so it is, for an even wider circle, in reference to the social life and customs of the natives. Education has made such strides that in the towns, 154 Ceylon in tike Jubilee Year. English is rapidly becoming the predominant language among all classes. In India all foreigners learn a native language, and domestic servants never thinkjof speaking English, even if some few of them under- ^ y: ^^ UOOBM*:< "tAMBY" (PEDItUl). stand it. H ere, in Ceylon, English is almost univer- sally in domestic use, and there is scarcely a roadside village in Ceylon now where the traveller could not find some persons to speak English, or intex-pret for Social Life and Customs. 165 him. The coolies on the plantations are different ; with few exceptions they only know Tamil, and the planters have to learn that language colloquially. Civil servants pass examinations in the languages. Very amusing are some of the servants, occasionally, who are only beginning to acquire English, or who try to show a command beyond their depth; like the Sinhalese appoo (butler) who, one day, on being remonstrated with by his Christian mistress for attending some tomfooleries of ceremonies at a temple, replied, Yes, he knew better, but he only did it " to please the womens " (his wife and daughters !), the hold of superstition and heathenism in Ceylon, as elsewhere, being strongest on the female portion of the household. On another occasion a horsekeeper (Tamil groom), coming to report t(|) his master that his horse had gone lame, expressed hijnself thus, holding up his fingers in illustration, " Sar, three legs very good ; one leg very bad ! " Some of the letters and peti- tions in English of budding clerks, or .warehousemen, or other applicants for situations, are often comical in the extreme. Both Sinhalese and Tamils make the most docile and industrious of domestic servants. Of course there are exceptions, but ladies who have been for some years in Ceylon, after visiting " home " again, or especially after going to Australasia or America, are usually glad to get back to their native servants. Caste in Ceylon has not one tithe the hold on the people that it has in India, and in respect of domestic service, only one-half to one-third the number of men- servants is requii'ed here, in consequence of one man making no objection to different kinds of work. Sin- halese " appoos " and " boys," with their often smooth cheeks, and hair done up in a knot, surmounted by a 156 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. <5omb, and with white jackets and long " comboys" (long petticoats), are frequently taken for female servants, the latter having no comb, but a silver or other pin in their hair, and only taking service as ayah (nurse), or lady's attendant. In the hotels passengers frequently make the mistake of supposing they are attended by maid, instead of men, servants. The Sinhalese have, indeed, been called the women otthe human race, and the story is that in trying to make soldiers of them, the British instructors in the early days never could get them not to fire awtty their ramrods ! Of course thereare some bad native servants, but they are the exceptions ; at any rate a good master and mistress generally get good eei-vice. But some- times robberies do occur in households, and usually then some one or other of the servants has been con- spiring with outside thieves. A few colonists prefer Malay servants. The demand for holidays is often a nuisance, and the saying is that native servants must have half a dozen grandfathers each from the number of funerals of grandfathers they have to attend. The fact is that the western habit of constant work does not suit the Oriental taste at all, the proverbial saying of the Buddhist Sinhalese being, *' Better to walk than to run, to sit down than walk, and best oi all to go to sleep." We have said that caste has not a great hold in Oeylon; but in one point of social life, it is still almost universally observed, there can be no marriage between persons of different castes. Tour servant may be a man of higher caste than your wealthy native neighbour driving his cai^iage, and yet the appoo would probably never consent to allow his daughter to marry the son of the rich but lower caste man. Social Life and Customs. 15T Christianity is working against caste, and among native Christians there are many cases of ca.ste being disregarded ; but, on the other hand, when the Duke of Edinburgh, was entertained by a Sinhalese gentle- man of medium caste, it was stated that Sinhalese THE DHOBY. officials (including a Christian chaplain) of the Vel- lale (agricultural) caste absented themselves from the entertainment where all were expected to be, because they could not enter the grounds or house of a man of the Fisher caste. The most striking case in recent 158 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. times in Ceylon was that of a young girl of good family in a Kandyan village, who fell in love with the son of a trader in the same village, of greaiter wealth but lower caste than her father, who was a decayed Chief. The lad and. girl had seen each other in SQhool days, and accLuaintance had ripened into more than friendship, and they were bent on defying caste, family opposition, and any other obstacle to their marriage. But a young brother of the girl haughtily forbade the courtship, threatening his sister if ever he saw her with the young trader. The lovers planned a clandestine match, so far that (being both Buddhists) they should get married by civil registra- tion before the magistrate. They stole away one morning and were mixing in the crowd usually await- ing the opening of the magistrate's court in county towns, when the young chief, finding out what had happened, rushed up and peremptorily ordered his sister home. She refused and clung to her lover, when the brother suddenly drew a knife from his girdle and stabbed her to the heart. She fell dead on the spot; the murderer holding the knife aloft and shouting, in Sinhalese, " Thus I defend the honour of my family," and going to the scaffold a few weeks after, exulting in his deed. Education and the rail- way are, however, aiding Christianity to, weaken the hold of caste, and the people of Ceylon will, before many generations go by, learn that — " Honour and shame from no condition rise, Act well your part, there all the honour lies " ; And that — " From yon blue heavens above us bent, The grand old gardener and his wife, Smile at the claims of long (or caste) descent." Social Life and Customs. 159 It is a striking evidence of the slight influence of Baddhism that here, in its sacred or holy land, where it has prevailed for over two thousand years, caste, which is utterly condemned by its founder and its tenets, still exercises a baneful influence over the Sinhalese people. All castes, however low, were de- clared to be eligible to Buddha's priesthood ; but in Ceylon ordination gradually became the privilege of the Vellale caste alone, until a Sinhalese of a lower caste went to Burmah and got ordained, so making two castes of priests in the island. In other Buddhist countries, Burmah, Siam, and Thibet, caste does not «xist in any similar form. A stanza from a Ceylon Buddhist work runs as follows — " A man does'not become low caste by birth, Nor by birth does one become high caste ; , High caste is the result of high actions — And by actions does a man degrade himself to a caste that is low." * Native weddings, with the peculiarities of each lace — Sinhalese, TamU, or Moormen (Mahomedan)^— are sometimes very curious, and, as the parties are generally rather proud than otherwise of Europeans being present, there is no difficulty, about getting an invitation. The youthfulness of the bride — ^perhaps thirteen to fifteen years — and the quantity of jewellery, literally weighing her down (collected and borrowed from all the family circle of relatives for the occasion), are two peculiarities. There are scarcely any un- married native women, and, as is always the case in a naturally ordered community, the males exce,ed the females in number. The Sinhalese have no army or navy or flow of emigration to supply, and no artificial customs to interfere with or delay the marriage of * See Appendix with extracts on " Caste. '? 160 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. their daughters. Of the influence of the Buddhist and Hindu religions upon the people, enough is said else- where, but we majy just refer here to the fact that a people bred under the iafluence of tenets (Buddhist), for- DEVIL DAUCEK, WITH ATTENDANT lOlI-TCli; biiATJill. bidding the taking of life, have developed some of the most cruel and exquisite forms of torture known to his- tory in reference to the lower animals. A law had to be Social Life and Customs. 161 passed forbidding the roasting of tortoises alive, in order to get the tortoise-shell of a finer lustre than if taken from the dead animal ; and only the other day a military officer discovered in Colombo that native cooks were in the habit of ciltting out the tongues of the living turkeys, in order that the flesh, when cooked, might be the more tender. But a long list of such instances might be given, as well as illustrsitions of the hypocrisy which makes Buddhist fishermen say : " We do not kill the fish, we take them out of the water and they die of themselves!" Householdars put out the old dog or cat on the highway for the wheel of a passing vehicle to go over and kill, so that they may have no sin ; or shut up the deadly snake in wicker-work on the river to be carried to the sea: while early in the present century it was the custppi to expose old and helpless human beings in the jungk, each wi'th a bowl of rice and chatty of water, to die with- out troubling their relatives, or to be devoured, as was often the case, by beasts of prey. Arid all this in one of the most bigoted of Buddhist districts — Matara — ^in the south of the island. It was in the same district a veteran missionary demonstrated the hypocrisy of a catechist, of whom he had authentic accounts that, while professing to be doing certain work as a ■Christian teacher for the sake of a salary, he was in heart a Buddhist, attending aU the temple ceremonies. In a remote village there was no check, and on being questioned by the missionary, while sittiug in a, room together, he utterly denied that he had any belief in Buddhism. Taking a small brass image of Buddha from his pocket, the missionary placed it on the table, when immediately (as all Buddhists should do) the ^ould-be catechist sprang to his feet, placed his hands 12 162 Ceylon in the Jtibilee Year. before his forehead with a low obeisance to\irards the image, and then slunk from the room discomfited ! Among the more cnrious occupations of the people, as related in the census, are such novelties as 1,532 devil-dancers (see page 160), 36 jugglers and monkey- dancers, 121 snake charmers, 240 astrologers and fortune-tellers, 32 actors and puppet-showmen, 640 tom-tom beaters, 160 comedians and nautch dancers, 16,357 dhobies or washermen (see page 157), nearly 2,000 barbers,^ 50 elephant-keepers and huntsmen^ about 5,000 fakirs and devotee-beggars, 1,500 grave- diggers, 200 lapidaries, 400 workers in ivory and tortoise-shell, and 3,000 in jewellery, &c.* European civilization and Christianity are both taking a firm hold of the people. Education is desired by the natives, perhaps not yet for its own sake, but as a means of advancement, as very few good posts are to be obtained in which English is not heeded. Once in our mission schools (and education, espe- cially in the villages, is mainly in the hands of the missionaries) children acquire new habits of industry and perseverance, and in time come to regard truth- fulness as desirable, and care for others, whether of their own bjood or not, as a duty. Though Buddha led a most self-denying life, and taught others to do the same, yet his example had made small impression on his followers, and philanthropy was not regarded as a duty by the Sinhalese or their priests. Now it is different. Each of our missions can quote many instances of noble generosity and hearty zeal for the welfare of the people. * The main results of the census will be found tabulated in Appendix VI. Social Life and Customs. 163 The de Soysa family, especially C. H. de Soysa, Esq., J.P., Mudliyar of the Governor's Gate — whose engraving we give, awd Who is expected by the people of Ceylon to be. knighted' by Her Most Gracious Majesty in this Jubilee year — are well known as the C., H. DE SOYSA, EB(t., JiP. leading "native philaiithropists in Ceylon. That the present representative of the family has made a good. use of his wealth may be seen from the by no means complete list of his benefactions which will be found in Appendix XU. 164 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. No less worthy of record are the benefactions and good works of Sampson de Eajapakse, Esq., J.P., Mudliyar of the Governor's Gate, of an ancient and honourable family. We give his portrait in full SAMPSON DE EAJAPAKSE, ESQ., J.P. official dress as Mudliyar, and also his genealogical tree as a curiosity {see Appendix XIII.). Pour encourager les autres. If the notice of two of our philanthropists and the publication of their bene- factions should prove an incentive to other wealthy Oriental British subjects to follow the example of Social Life and Customs. 165 Messrs. de Soysa and Eajapakse, there will be perhaps sufficient excuse for this memorial of their liberalitv. to the Ceylon community. We have merely touched the skirts of topics in this chapter, which might well require for their treatment a volume in themselves. Those interested in the subject may be referred to good old Eobert Knox's veracious account of his sojourn, as a prisoner, among the Kandyan pedple for twenty years-T-1659 to 1680 — or to more modern books, in Cordiner's, Percival's,. Davy's, Forbes's, Pridham's, or Emersoil Tennent's histories, with Spence Hardy's "Eastern Monachism," "Jubilee. Memorials," and "Legends of the Buddhists." CHAPTEE XVI. CONCLUSIOlf. Eelalion and importance of Ceylon to India — Progress of Christianity and Education-^Statistics of Population — Need of Eeform in the Legislative Council, and sketch of a scheme for the Election of Unofficial, Members — Loyalty of People to British Kule, as evinced during Eoyal visits, and in connection with the Jubilee of Her Majesty the Queen-Empress — Jubilee Celebration. Ceylon, in a social and political way, bears the same relation to India and the Far East that England has done to the European continent. Mr. Laing, when Finance Minister for India, confessed it was most valuable to law- makers and administrators in the Indian Presidencies, to have Ceylon under a separate form of government, and to have experiments in administrative and legislative reforms tried here, which served as an example or a warning to the big neighbouring continent, the peoples being allied in so many respects. There is, for instance, no distinction made between native and European judges and magis- trates in Ceylon ; and the acting Chief Justice, lately, was a Eurasian, while at present a Sinhalese barrister is Judge of the Supreme Court ; and other Ceylonese fill the responsible offices of Attorney-General and Local Religions. 167 Solicitor-Creneral of the Colony. Again, in Ceylon, we have a. decimal system of currency, a great step- in advance of the cambfons Indian system, and we have entire freedom of all religions (including Christianity) Irom State patronage and control. The progress of Christianity and education among ihe people is greater than in any other Eastern State, «,nd should Buddhism, the religion of one and three- KANDY MALIOAWA, OB TEMPLE OP THE lOOTH, •quarters (if a million of Sinhalese, fall here, it would iave a great effect on the millions of Burmah, Siam, and even China, who look to Ceylon as the sacred home of Buddhism. The kings of Burmah and Siam especiallyi continue to take an interest in, and make offerings to, the Buddhist "temple of the tooth" at Eandy. Eoman Catholicism has been propagated since the arrival of the Portuguese in the sixteenth 168 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. century ; while English Protestant > missions have worked in Ceylon since 1811.* The Eoman Catholics number about 220,000, the Protestants 60,000, against 1,700,000 Buddhists and demon worshippers, 600,000 Hindus, and nearly 200,000 Mohammedans. The population at the census of 1881 included 6,300 Budd- hist. 1,250 Hindu, and 574 Mohammedan priests, 465 Christian ministers and missionaries, 2,210 schoolmasters, 759 lawyers and notaries public, and 3,321 physicians and medical practitioners of all grades. Some allusion should be made to more than one local movement in Ceylon for a reform in the system of government, and more especially in the liberalizing of the Legislative Council. Sir Hercules Eobinson, while opposing this claim, originated raunicipal institutions in the three principal towns, as a means of training the people in the art of self-government. The working of these has, how- ever, unfortunately, not been so successful as was hoped, and one reason is a curiously oriental one, namely, that respectable Ceylonese consider it derogatory to go and ask the people below them — often ignorant and poor franchise-holders^or "the honour of their votes." "Honour comes from above, • not from below," they say; and so the better classes of natives abstained from the Municipal Boards, and left many disreputable men to get in. A reformed and restrictive municipal constitution law just passed, may work better. But as regards the Legislature, the occupation of one of three seats allotted to the Ceylonese by nomination of the Governor has always * For illustrations of the progress of modem PFotestant Chnstdan Missions, xet: Appendix III. Legislative Reform. IGQ- been greatly coveted, arid an object of ambition to every rising man in the country.* A reform in the present practice of according what are practically life seats, would be to change the unofficial members every three years, so educating and testing an increas- ing number of Ceylonese for public life. There is na reason, however, why a few more unofficial seats should not be added to the Legislative Board. Indeed, the elective principle might, under due safeguards, be applied in the eight provinces of the island, — under a severely restricted franchise to begin with, — so giving eight elected unofficial members, to whom might be added two to four nominees of the Governor, from among the merchants or other classes not adequately served by the elections. Elections and nominations could take place every six years, or on the advent of each new Governor, and a few more privileges might be accorded to the members, such as the right of initia- ting proposals, even where such involved the expendi- ture of public money up to a certain moderate limit. The Governor, for the time being, could always com- mand a majority against any unwise scheme, and his own veto, as well as that of the Secretary of State, would continue operative. Some such im rovement of the Legislative Council — which has continued with- out change for over fifty years, or since the days of Governor Sir Eobert Wilmot Horton in 1833 — cannot long be delayed, and if asked for on broad grounds by a united community, it might well be granted in honour of the Queen's Jubilee year. Another practical reform of importance would be the ensuring that four out of the six members of the * For further information about the government, see' Summary of" Information concerning Ceylon (Appendix VIII.). 170 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Executive Council — that is, the Colonial Secretary, Attorney-General, Auditor-General, and Treasurer — should always be trained public servants of the colony, with local experience. The farce has been seen even in recent years of a Governor and his five Executive advisers in Ceylon, not counting half a dozen years of local experience between them. Ceylon was honoured with a visit from H.E.H. the Duke of Edinburgh in 1870, from H.E.H. the Prince of Wales in 1875, and from the young Princes Albert and George of Wales in 1881. On each occasion the loyalty and devotion of the people to the British Crown, and their warm personal interest in the happi- ness and welfare of their sovereign, were very con- spicuous. This has been still more shown dm-ing the present year, in connection with the Jubilee of Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen-Empress Victoria, when all classes and races have vied with each other in the endeavour to do honour to the occasion. Liberal support has been given to the Imperial Insti- tute, dear to the Queen ; as a local memento of the occasion, a Home for Incurables is to be erected in Colombo, and loyal addresses, as well as a Women's Offering, have been sent to Windsor. The Jubilee was celebrated throughout Ceylon with ^reat enthusiasm. In Colombo was the chief demon- stration, that being the head-quarters of the represen- tative of the Queen ; but the whole of the island towns may be said to have been decorated and en fete. The Military Eeview on Galle Face Esplanade at 7 a.m., was the event of the morning of the twenty-eighth, in the capital, and the Volunteers shared with the regulars ihe duties of the occasion. The feu dejoie and three ringing cheers were the soldiers' expression of loyalty Jubilee Celebration. 171 at its close. This was followed at 10.30 by services in all the places of worship. In the Mission Churches the interesting feature was the union of English, Sin- halese, Tamils, and even Portuguese descendants, at the same service, addresses being given in all fom languages in succession. The Queen's letter, request- ing that prayer and thanksgiving be offered up, had been sent from Queen'sHouse tp the different pastors, and was duly read at the services, while at the close a collection was made in many churches for the *' Ceylon Victoria Home for Incurables." Then came the feeding of large numbers of the poor in all the towns and chief villages, each applicant getting either a measure of rice and five cents (one penny), or a piece of calico. A good dinner was given by the citizens of Colombo (led by Mr. J. J. Grinlinton) to the soldiers in garrison and their wives and children, numbering 951 persons. In the afternoon came the great celebration, on Galle Pace Esplanade, Colombo, where from fifteen to twenty graceful pandals had been erected for the accommoda- tion of the many who could not stand exposure to a tropical sun. Nothing can exceed the graceful beauty of such erections, when the Sinhalese and Tamils set themselves to do their best ; loops of plaintain and young coco-Dut leaf, green moss, and fern, and yellow olas, and clusters of coco-nuts, oranges, or other fruits, offer the best possible material for covering the bamboo framework that may be put together in a night. It is computed that about 25,000 human beings of aU classes and races, the vast majority clad in bright garments, varying from white to the richest and most briUiant hues, were assembled round the centre where the Governor read the Eecord of the Chief Events of 172 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. the Fifty Years, received the Address from the in- habitants of Ceylon to their Gracious and Beloved Monarch, and made proclamation of the Queen's desire (in conjunction with her God-fearing subjects everywhere) to return thanks to Almighty God for the blessings of the fifty years ; to see the Eoyal Standard hoisted and to hear the salute of fifty guns fired in honour of the Eoyal Lady who had reigned so long and so well. High festival as it was, the quiet and orderly conduct of the crowd was the subject of emphatic and approving remark. Amongst the most interesting incidents of the day was the singing of the Eoyal Anthem by the Sunday-school children, and the procession of these and other young people, scholars in the various schools and colleges to the number of about 2,000. There were numerous pro- cessions of various races and religionists, including some seventy-seven Buddhist priests in bright yellow robes, men who must be better than their creed, if they sincerely joined in the thanksgiving to Almighty God. Salutes consisting of the cracking of long Kandyan whips were sources of curiosity to new- comers, while the chanting of both Malay and Sin- halese processions to well-known popular tunes produced much amusement. One of the most striking incidents of the day was the appearance of Arabi and three of his fellow-exiles — Mahmood Samy, Toulba, and Abdulal, at the head of the Muhammadan pro- cession. Their appearance imparted an element of romance to the proceedings, reminding one of those " Arabian Nights Tales," in which the isle of Serendib figures so prominently. The most fertile of imagina- tions could not, some years ago, have anticipated that a contingent of Egyptian officers, exiled to Ceylon for Jubilee Celebration. 178 Tebellion a,gainst their own sovereign, should take a Toluntary part in celebrating the- Jubilee of a Queen ■whose army had defeated the forces which they /had led in insurrection, and so rendered abortive thffl* ambitious (or patriotic?) designs. The other three Egyptian exiles, Ally Fehmy; Mahamood Fehmy, and Ya;ciGob Saniy. preferfed presenting an address at Queen's House, which the Governor received and- promised to forward to Her Majesty. The following is a liteJral translation of their address written in Arabic :^ " May it please youe Excellency,--— With heart- felt loyalty, we the undersigned Egyptian exiles ixi^ this country, though few our number, have' reason to approach your Excellency on this auspicious day set apart by your Excellency for the celebration, by the general public of this island, of the Jubil-ee of Her Oracious Majesty Victoria, Queen of England, and Empress of India, whom your Excellency as Ruler of this country represents, and we beg to address the; following : — " No one would deny that for the period of fifty years during which Her Majesty has uninterruptedly occupied the throne, Her Majesty has been just and merciful, and the brightness of her reign, has reflected all over the world, and been a source of gratitude which we always fedl in pur hearts, and of which we are full. "We pray for all those gracious and, liberal gifts to us that Almighty God may bless Her Majesty and give her grace, prolong her glorious and beneficent reign, and give her health, happiness, and honour. " We must confess that, in our position which is 174 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. known 'to all, the pain in the centre of our hearts, as strangers from our country, felt, has been removed since our stay in this country, by the prompt extension to us of relief and justice, by the many acts of kind- ness, humanity, aiid generosity done to us. All these acted as a remedy which cured the pain which we felt in our hearts, making room for our peace and comfort. " We have indeed, therefore, special reason to be most sincerely loyal and faithful, and to humbly yield to the feelings and inclinations of our hearts. We beg, therefore, to lay at the foot of Her Majesty's throne our unbounded heartfelt thanks, and to offer the same to your Excellency, as Her Majesty's great Eepresentative in this country, in which we enjoy favours, and overflowing justice. " We feel infinite happiness and pleasure that we are accorded the privilege of taking a part ourselves in the enjoyments of this joyful, happy, and auspicious day, set apart for the honour and praise of Her Majesty the Queen." Other addresses were presented to the Governor for transmission to Her Majesty by the people of Ceylon, the Legislative Council, the Planters' Association, which represents the backbone of th^ prosperity of the island, and the small Malay community; From the latter we quote a part : — "We desire to offer your Excellency, as the repre- sentative of her Majesty Queen Victoria, our sincerest and dutiful thanks for the manifold advantages we have received during the beneficent reign of Her Majesty, through her many noble representatives who ruled this island. It is with the proudest satisfaction Jubilee Celebration. 175 we say, and irji saying it we are but expressing the- feeling of the entire Malay community, that no com- munity has proved more loyal 'and faithful ; aiid its loyalty and fidelity have stood the very best tests. Fifty years ago, when Her Majesty ascended the throne, the Malays constituted a Military Corps, they rendered valuable service abroad and in this island, which, although it has been only the land of their adoption, has, in consequence of the disbandment of the corps in 1873, become their home. A mere military corps has during fh%last fifty years made rapid strides towards materi&,l advancement, and what had been a mere corps of a few hundred fighting men has developed into a large, free, and independent community. This happy realization is due to the beneficent rule of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. It nevertheless still retains its martial spirit, and we may assure your Excellency, should there ever be occasion for it, the Malays to a maji would joyfully • rally round the British Standard and fi^fht -to the death like good soldiers."' The different colleges of Colombo each had their own pandal, and a visitor would be vei'y much in- terested in the Ceylonese lads trained in the Eoyai; St. Thomas's and Wesley Colleges, in the Medical College ; and also in the pandal headed, " Widyodaya College," inside of which were ranged in rows, some seventy-five Buddhist students, ekd in.tneir yellow robes, these being with a few exceptions made of silk ; while in front,, in a s«netwmaU by himself, sat Sumangala, the high priest of Adam's Peak^ and president of the College. These' youqg celibates, though they had their fans in their hands> did not make much use of them, but stared 176 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. about and enjoyed the fun as much as any one else. What would the Buddha have said if he had seen them thus gathered to do honour to a woman (accord- ing to his dictum woman is — not sinful — but sin itself!).; and to hear later on, when the school ■children were singing "God save the Queen," a young monk chant a number of Pali stanzas, composed by the learned Sumangala himself, in honour of this same woman. In these pandals the official record was read in English, Sinhalese, or Tamil,. by the leaders of the classes represented, ^ir Arthur Gordon also read the Eecord through, and then proclaimed in Her Majesty's name that the lands sold for default of payment of •commutation rates, since the introduction of the Grain Commutation Ordinance into any province, which ghall remain in the hands of the Crown, should be restored to their former possessors. He also an- nounced that the following classes of prisoners — 173 in number — had been released on that day as an example of Her Majesty's mercy and clemency : — (1st) all prisoners in prison"for debt due to the Crown ; (2nd) all women not undergoing imprisonment for very serious offences; (3rd) all prisoners whose sen- tences of imprisonment were shortly to expire. From the official record of British progress in^ fifty years, prepared by the Governor, we quote the few items referring to Ceylon : — In 1838 the Legislative Council of the Colony, created but not com- pleted in 1833, received its full complement of .memhers. In 1844 the last remains of Slavery were whoUy abolished. In 1848 a slight insurrectionary movement took place in a part of the Kandyan districts, which is Only worthy of mention in order to contrast it with the loyalty of all classes ten years later, on which the Governor of Ceylon was able safely to rely, when in 1857 he sent all the available troops in this Island to assist in the suppression of the Indian MuSLny. In I806 Sir Henry "Ward commenced the restoration of the long- neglected Irrigation System of the Island; and in 1857 the ancient Village Councils were revived, chiefly with a view to the prpmotion and enforcement of Irrigation' Works. Jubilee Celebration. 177 In the same year the firat sod was cut of the first Railway in Ceylon. In 1858 Ceylon was united with India by the Electric Telegraph. In 1865 the Municipalities of Colomho and Kandy were established. In 1868 the general scheme of Publio Education now in force was , adopted by the Legislature. In 1870 legislative measures enabling the tenants of Temple Lands to commute their services were adopted, and in the same year the Ceylon Medical S6hool -rt-as established. In 1871 the powers of Village Councils were largely extended, pad Tillage Tribunals instituted. In 1875 the firat stone of the Colombo Breakwater was laid by His Boyal Highness the Prince of Wales. In 1881 in Ordinance, which however did not come fully into effect until 1886, was passed, withdrawing pecuniary aid, saving in the case of vested life-interests, from all Ecclesiastical Bodies. In 1883 a Code of Criminal Law and Procedure was passed, which came into operation at the beginning of 1885. In 1885 Currency Notes were first issued by the Government. In 1886 the Colombo Breakwater was coiiq>leted. The Population of Ceylon, which in 1837 was estimated at 1,243,066, and on the first census taken in 1871 was found to be 2,405,287, now amounts to about 3,000,000. The Revenue, which in 1837 was £371,993, amounted in 1867 to £969,936, and in 1886 to E12,682,549. The number of miles of Main Roads open in 1837 was about 450 ; in 1887 it was 3,343. The number of Estates in the hands of European Settlers in 1837 probably did not exceed 50 ; in 1887 it was over 1,500. The development of Agricultural Industry which these figures denote is, in itself, the most remarkable feature in the History of Ceylon during Her Majesty's reign. It is a development which has changed the physical appearance of th& country, and profoundly modified its social condition, and which is due to the energy and perseverance of men who have shown that they can bear adversity with fortitude as they sustained prosperity with credit.- The Eoyal Standard was then hoisted, and a royal salute of fifty guns was fired. Next the Volunteer Band, led by Mr. Liischwitz, played "The National Anthem," while the children, led by the Eev. S. Coles,. C.M.S., sang the same. Processions closed the afternoon's proceedings, and effective displays of fireworks, with less effective illu- minations, entertained a large concourse till midnight. The chief permanent Memorial of the Jubilee is to- be the Ceylon " Victoria Home for Incurables." Nowhere in the British Empire are there more loyal or contented subjects of her Most Gracious Majesty than in "Lanka," "the pearl-drop on the brow of India." 13 178 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. APPENDICES. APPENDIX I. SHOOTING TEIPS IN CEYLON.* GOOD CENTBES rOB SPOBT, AND. HOW TO EBACH IHJEM PKOM COLOMBO. No. 1. — The Fabe CoxmiBY and Batticaloa Tanks : — Game : elephants, deer, cheetahs, bears, pigs, teal, snipe, peafowl, &c„ &e. To Nanuoya by rail; to Badillla, hired carriage, 40 miles ; to Bibile, hired' carriage, 37 miles ; to NUgala, good bridle road, 15 miles. This is a good, centre for the Park country. To Ambari Tank, 81 miles. [Excellent country for all the above game, Erikamam, Devilane, and other large tanks in the vicinity.] No. 2. — Thb ' HoETON Pladis : — Qame : elk, deer, ele- phants, spur fowl, &c., &c. To Nanuoya by rail;^io tiie Horton Plains, turning off at Blackpool 2 mUes from the Nanuoya station on the road to Nuwara Eliya, 18 miles. No. • 3. — Tedicomaleb Disibici : — Oame : elephants, bears, cheetahs, deer, t^al, snipe, &c., &c. To Trincoma- lee, by steamer, or by road through Eandy and Matale, rail to Matale, thence by road to Trincomalee, 97 miles. Trincomalee to Kottiar fay boat, Kottiar to Toppur (Allai- Tank), 7 miles. Good ^sentre for sport of aU sorts. Kan- thalai Tank, 24 miles from Trincomalee on Kandy road, good centre for sport. No. 4.— PuTTAiAM DisTBicT : — Game : elephants, bears, cheetahs, deeir, partridge, &c., &c. To Puttalam by canal or road, 84 miles. Puttalam to Pomparipo by lake or * The best available book on Sport is still Sir Samuel Baker's " Bifle and Hound in Ceylon,." though published nearly thirty years ago : a new edition was published a few years ago. 180 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. road, 25 miles. Good centre for sport. Pompariiso to Marichikaddi, 18 miles bridle road. Excellent country for game of all sorts. No. 5. — Hambantota District: — To Ealutara by rail; coach to Galls and Mataxa ; thence a hired trap to Ham- bantota. By steamer to Galle and Hambantota and cart to Yale. No. 6. — MiNEEY AND PoLONAEUWA : — To Matalc by rail. Matale to Habaranne by road, 44 miles, good carriage road. Habaranne to Minnery, bridle road, 15 miles: Miunery to Topari (Polonnaruwa) 12 miles. THE ELEPHANT KEAAL OF 1882. A DESCEIPTION OF THE ELEPHANT KE.iAL HELD AT LABCGAMA (cEYLON) FOR THE EKTEKTAIKMEKT OF THE PBINCES ALEEET VICIOE AXD GEOEGE OP WALES IN 1882. (From an account by Mr. J. Ferguson in the Ceylon Observer). AT THE KRAAL. Keaaltown, Monday Evening, January 30, 1882. AKRIVAL OP THE PRINCES. The Princes arrived at the kraal at 5 p.m. Prince George was mounted on a spirited steed and cleared the stream which runs between the o£Gcial and unof&cial portions of Kraaltown in magnificent style, showing that he knows how to ride. Large crowds of planters and others cheered him vociferously. Prince Albert Victor arrived on foot, walking with his Excellency the Governor alongside of Lady Longden, who was carried in a chair. There are two herds of elephants within a mile of the kraal, seven in one herd and fifteen in the other. A successful drive is expected early tp-morrow morning. Tuesday Forenoon, January 31, 1882, THE ELEPHANTS INDISPOSED TO CARRY OUT THE OFFICIAL PROGRAMME. The little programme sketched out by the Government Agent, and which the energetic Dawson hoped to put into execution, ran somewhat ass^follows: — The driving from An Elephant Kfaal. 181 the outer into the inner beat to commence last night, to he followed this morning by the drive into the kraal, which, it was hoped, would be effected before noon ; the noosing and tying-up to be at once begun and continued on Wednesday. This would have enabled the princes to see all the operations connected with a kraal and to start back so as to reach Colombo in good time on Wednesday. But, so far, we have only an illustration of the weU- worn aphorism that — " The best-laid plans ol mice and men Gang aft agley ; " and we all know how often,' especially in the case of elephants, are the plans of fnen at fault. An old chief last evening gave me the opinion, based on his experience of a good many kraals, that while a herd of elephants were difficult to compass and drive from their native jungle in the first instance, once start thena and get the beat fairly established, and by the time they come within driving distance of the kraal they are all fairly cowed and very easy of management. No doubt comparatively this is the case ; but in the history of kraals we have too many instances of successful charges and escapes to feel lihat the final drive is such an easy matter as the old chief would have us believe. Last night's experieiice is no •exception. The herd that it was proposed first to capture, after being driven into the inner beat, broke through into ■the wider range, and the evening's labour went for nothing. -No doubt the wet evening — rain extinguishing fire and ^torches — had a good deal to do with the breach effected. Of nothing is the elephant so much afraid as of fire, and with nothing will a Kandyan approach a wild elephant so readily. You will remember Major Skinner's experience on the Anuradhapura road as an iUusti^ation. How he found the road to his camp wilfully, if not deliberately {and of mahce aforethought), blocked up one evening by a herd of elephants which had been prowling in the neigh- bourhood ; how all the efforts of himself and his men to ■clear the road of the intruders proved unavailing — the leader, an old tusker, charging furiously when any attempt was made at dislodgment; and how this went on for some hours until finally a Kandyan arrived with a huge torch, with which he marched right up to the tusker, who stood 182 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. his groTiud until the fire almost touched his trunk, and then turned tail and fled with all his belongings. In the hands of a man of Mr. Satmders's nerve, no doubt an umbrella alternately opened and shut would prove as effectual as a torch, and very probably the Government Agent found occasion to use it last night, for he and Mr. Dawsop are reported to have spent most of the night with the beaters. Very early astir this morning, probably the first from the official encampment, was Captain Foot (of H.M.S. Biiby), and a 4ong walk round the kraal and on along the line of beaters failed to afford a sight of waving forest tree- tops, or the sound of crashing through "batali " (small bambu), much less the sight of an elephant. The hope now is that one herd may be driven in this afternoon, but there arb doubts about it, and the headmen are more than usually susceptible to the presence of strangers, insisting that their beaters should not be visited, and that no bugle should be sounded for the benefit of " Eraaltown " until the barrier-gate shall be "closed and the herd secured. There is, as usual, too, some little jealousy among the chiefs, the one insisting on his herd being first disposed, of and by no means mingled with the others. Meantime the princes are enjoying themselves under " the merrie greenwood." Their quarters have been most. deUghtfuUy chosen — for situation beautiful exceedingly — ahd muc& care and taste have been displayed in fitting them up. A " crow's-nest " for four has been established at a good point for a sight of the drive-in, while the prin- cipal grand stand is, as usual, erected partly inside the kraal to secure a good sight of the final and reall^^ interesting operations. Tuesday Evening. the elephants still obstinate — a visit to the beateks lines — a false alarm the chief eeneligoda. This has been a day of disappointment for all concerned. The drive-in, which was expected to take place last night was considered certain for this morning, and in hurrying up from a distance of ten miles (where I had taken up my quarters last night) I feared the risk of missing an exciting portion of the proceedings, but was consoled to find everybody still waiting for the elephants. The afternoon An Elephant Kraal. 183 ■was now considered certain for the drive, and in prepara- tion thousands of natives wended their way kraalwards, from which, however, they were kept off at respectable distance. I started off to find the outer line of heaters, and at about two miles from Kraaltown I came upon their small jungle huts, or rather nests and camp-fires. Very pic- turesque was the scene and wonderful the interest of the people in their work, from the old grey-headed Kandyan sire with his flowing white beard, who had probia/bly passed through more kraals than "he could recall, to the young stripling by bis side who was on the " corral" beat for the first time. From the far-distant jufigle came the signal of their chief, Ekneligoda, or his henchman, and immediately the cry was taken up, " Hari — hari — hari — iari, Hari — hari — ho-bo 1 " winding uj) with a prolonged cheer. Passing from the bridle-road, the outer cordon line led through the email bambu jungle up hill and down dale ; camp-fires, huts, and beaters with their long forks were passed, or here and there an old musket, and again at regular intervals a crow's-nest with an agile, keen-eyed watchman swung up in a tree. Suddenly a wild "halloo!" is raised by .the Sinhalese on the river bank ; there is crashing of jungle, firing of guns, and flinging of stones; two or three indefatigable appuhamis literally throw themselves into the stream across which the cordon line now runs, to pick up rocks and fling them into the jungle. The elephants are surely coming, and right down upon us in t^io river, is the first thought. Three beaters at our side lo jk out for trees, and the thought of shelter becomes a leading con- sideration. Suddenly the assistant agent, Mr. Dawson, accompanied by the indefatigable Captain Foot and a few other officers, break from the cordon line into, the river- bed. Their presence has a wonderful effect ; the beaters redouble their furious attack on the' supposed advancing " aliyas," shouts and yells, shots and shells in the form of pieces , of rock, v crashing and trampling, form a proper accompaniment, and it seems more than ever needful to look out for danger. As a Colombo wallah I could, not help thinking discretion the better part of valour, and my friends looked, if they did not speak it — 184 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. " He who ascends into a tree May next day climb again with me ; But he by elephant that's gored May see at once that he is floor'd." But, before we moved a step, the clamour and sliindy subsided as suddenly as it was commenced, and it did not require the " knowing" look of a friend up to "the ways that are dark " of the beater folk to see that all was got up as a "plant" (excuse slang) in honour of the visitors, to afford them a little sensation for their jungle trip. ""The elephants are upon you," they said, in fact, in order to see how we should stand the test or show a clean pair of heels. But fortunately we stood it all, while we followed on in search of the elephants. I was anxious to see the old chief, Ekneligoda, who at the head of 500 men directed this drive of fifteen ele- phants — his people having been out for nearly a month, while he has been half that period living and lodging as best he can in the jungle. " Here he comes," cries my companion, who knows the old man well : a little, dark, skinny old man, bearded like the wandura, with an ordinary comboy which he is holding up as he walks bare- foot through jungle and water — the inevitable dilapidated billy-cock hat setting off a figure which a stranger would at once say belonged to a poor old Kandyan of no conse- quence. But a glance at his face revealed power and authority, set off by a keen eye and aquiline nose — a man of few words, yet his English is good. We met him later on coming back from one of his beats, when he frankly assured us he did not think we could see the ele- phants, penetrate and push on as we might. He com- plained, not loudly, but expressively, of the difficult task set to him: more troublesome elephants had probably never come under his care. Wednesday Evening, Feb. 1st, 1882. PARTIAL success : SEVEN ELEPHANTS DRIVEN IN, BUT THE ATTEMPT TO NOOSE THEM UNSUCCESSFUL-^ONB SHOT, AND THE TAIL PRESENTED TO PRINCE ALBERT VICTOR A BEATER KILLED AND OTHERS WOUNDED DEPARTURE OF THE GOVERNOR AND THE PRINCES. EkneHgoda has his headquarters on the north side of the Peak in the Yatiyantota district, as his relative and An Elephant Kraal. 185 superior, Iddamalgoda, holds sway over the richer and more popular ^south. He is a man of few words, but wheii I met him the second time in the bed of the expan- sive rocky ela, which feeds the, Maha-oya, the chief, who looked disconcerted after his interview with his civilian superior, threw out his hands in the expressive oriental fashion and deprecated this English plan of fighting against time and nature, hurrying up the elephants, jiolens volens, whether inclined to go on or not. " Now," said the chief, "the Sinhalese way is to wait on the elephants ; don't allow them to go back ; wait until they go, or only at proper times help them to go forward." In the light ■of last night's and to-day's experieiices, there is much wisdom in the old chiefs remark. Tuesday passed, and no elephants 'approached, but the 'beaters had begun to work in earnest, the position of the herd had been noted by the waving of the jungle, and the chief was very sanguine of passing into the kraal valley and probably driving his herd in during the night. With this anticipation the princely and viceregal party, as weU as Kraaltown, had to be content for Tuesday evening. The princes were for part of this day entertained with the performances of the tame elephants, and thej had several walks to the " croVs-nest " in front of the kraal. Wednesday's Experiences. Day broke, and in the grey morning mist, from 5 to 7 a.m. (and a few hours afterwards), the denizens of Kraal- town might be seen cUmbing the hiUside, and passing on iio the kraal entrance in the hope of all being ready for "business at last, but "No elephants ; not likely to be any kraal," was all that one could learn. Later on, however, came better news, and we awaited patiently for tours the approach of elephants which, judging by the nearness and loudness of the cries of the beaters, might be ex- pected at any moment, from 9 a.m. onwards, to burst from their final fastness along the drive into the kraal. Wednesday Night. CAPTUBE OF IDDAMAI-GODA's HEED OP ELEPHANTS. About breakfast-time came the news that the two herds of from seventeen to twenty elephants were to be kraaled 186 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. simultaneously. This was received as a welcome relief by the weary bystanders. Very patiently, though with eager expectation, did we all wait for the sudden rustling, of the jungle and the burst inwards, which would afford ocular demonstration of a herd being kraaled. But hour after hour sped away, and, though numerous were the alarms, no approach to the entrance followed. It was a, case of " How often we Prince Rupert kill'd, And bravely won the day, — The wicked CaVEliers do read The clean contrary way. ' ELEPHAXI CHAlltiE : THE FIKAIj SHUT. At one time the tame elephants were ordered down into the jungle, to charge the wild herd upwards if possible, but the attempt failed : the work was one in which the tame ones had no practice, and the "cow" in the herd,, already nearly driven desperate about her calf, threatened to undo all the labour of many weeks, if any weak point were left exposed. Fiercely, and again and again, did this gallant brute and faithful mother charge the beaters ; she refused to be driven back, and after injuring, directly or indirectly, several of the beaters, she at last killed her man, and it was resolved she must perish. Mr. James Munro was requested to punish the offender, not by An Elephant Kraal. 18T killing but by wounding her, which he did at forty paces^ by a shot in the forehead. This laid the cow prostrate for from five to ten minutes, during which blood poured out of the wound in a torrent, forming quite a pool; b^it after this interval the animal rose, much to the deUght of its distracted calf, and trotted after the herd, thoroughly cured of further designs on the beaters, and in a few minutes more — unfortunately in the absence of the crow's- nest party at luncheon — ^the whole herd, four large and three small, dashed along the entrance drive into the kraal, trampling down the bambu jungle and passing at lightning speed and with the soimd of rumbling thunder into the kraal. " Caught at last ! " was the cry, and the grand stand was speedily occupied, while the order went forth to old Iddamalgoda, who now appeared on the scene, that an attempt should at once be made to move and tie up one of the herd. But, alas, the princes were timed to leave at 1.30 ; they lingered on till about 3 p.m., and so secured a passiug sight of the herd in the kraal and were presented with the tail of the elephant shot. Then Prince Albert Victor, His Excellency the Governor, Lady Longden, Sir Edwin Johnson, Lieut. Adair, and Captain Hayne, A,D.C. ; started for Colombo ; while Prince George,' with- his ttitdr, the Eev. J. Dalton, Captains Lord Charles Scott, Durrant, and Foot — as well as Admiral Gore-Jones — remained some hours longer in the hope of witnessing, a noosing and tying up. Beaters were already hard at work vrith catties, and very soon two or three of the tame elephants lent their effective aid, butting down gently but effectually trees of no mean magnitude : everything in the shape of light jungle speedily disappeared from around the royal stand. The enormous government " tusker," fully roped and equipped for the noosing and tying business, now moved down in stately measure among the spectators to the eastern side of the kraal, where, at the word of command, he lightly and readily shpped aside the top beam and dropped the one end from his trunk to the ground. He crossed the lower beam, still over four feet high, without difficulty, and proceeded into the jungle. I passed on to the remoter end of the kraal, where a continuous trumpeting, varied by stentorian but painful 188 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. «ries of the bereaved baby-elephant, indicated the pre- sence ol the herd hidden in the dense bambu jungle. Nothing could be seen of them here, however — only the occasional waving of the bambus. Turning back, I found that the government tusker had got rid of his keeper inside the kraal for some reason, and was vainly trying by himself to slip back the upper beam again in order to get out of the kraal ! Fortunately for the thousands of natives and some Europeans too (who could not well stampede through the close jungle) the beam had been firmly secured, and very soon the keeper once more resumed his work and authority, and the tusker went to work, although, apparently, he was not to be depended on so much as the remaining tuskers' trio. After a good Tiew of this end of the kraal from Mr. Charles de Soysa's , stand, I went on to the grand stand, inside the kraal, where Prince George and party were waiting for the ■exhibition which never came off. Although two or three encounters took place, and although a band of volunteer European parties undertook to drive from the lower end of the kraal, no favourable opportunity for noosing could be obtained, and the prince had to be contented with the several ineffectual attepipts made. The fact is that the attempt to noose on the same evening as the capture^ is unprecedented, and the civil officers scarcely expected success. The usual and proper course is to allow a night to intervene, during which the captives trample down all the "batali " and other jungle stuff, ex- haust themselves in examining their prison, and finally lie ■down in whatever puddle may remain in the hollows. Noosing and tying can then proceed in a business-like way. dearly, neither chief nor retainers could feel much enthu- eiaSm in the after-proceedings of this afternoon. That the tame elephants and keepers did their duty well is vouched for by the experience of a planting friend who, occupying a prominent position in a high tree inside the western side of the kraal, witnessed a charge of three tame elephants on to the quartette of big ones in the herd, which fairly astonished him. The trio were arranged in Une, facing the position in the bambu, where the herd gave evidence of their presence, and all at once in regular and most rapid motion, at the word of command, they charged, butting the herd fairly over or on before them. So rapid An Elephant Kraal. 189' and regular was the tun, that the three seemed as one, and to run like a racehorse. As a finish to my day's work, I paid a visit to the dead elephant, which lay in the bambu jungle not far from the- western entrance. The fatal shots on the forehead were examined, as well as one in the ear ; the ears and feet as trophies or talismans hp,d already been either out off or hacked about. "We were a party of twenty or thirty, in- cluding natives, around the prostrate animal, when sud- denly a crash through the jungle near at hand was foUowei by the cry of " Here comes the herd ! " and, sure enougl^, the wild elephants, closely followed by two of the tame ones, appeared to be making directly for us. There was- screaming and shouting enough in good earnest, and although the only risk lay in a hurried stampede in one direction, the pursuers being behind, clearly discretion was. the better part of valour, and a rush was made for the- barrier. Thursday Evening, February 2nd, 1882. A HABD day's WOEK, RESULTING FTNALLY, IN THE CAPTU,Kfc OP TWELVE ELEPHANTS, INCLUDING A SPLilNDID TUSKEK. We were met at an early hour by an official intimation — probably written the night before — to the effect that the public were requested not to approach the stockade and kraal, as Ekneligoda's herd was within easy distance, and the attempt was to be made to open the barrier gate, drive- them in and kraal all together. This was a disappoint- ment, because it added to the risk of there being no noos- ing at all this day ; but before we had fully realized the new " situation " created by the official " proclamation,"" came the authentic news^ meeting us on the road up to the kraal, that the whole of the six elephants kraaled the night before had escaped duping the night, and that the kraal was vacant ! This proved to be the fact, and the explanations rendered were most varied. One statement was that part of Ekne- ligoda's herd had broken in during the night, and the- palisade being knocked down, all escaped scot-free again ;, another account made it appear that the gate must have been opened preparatory to the further kraaUng, and so in being too greedy, crying " more, more," those already held. Il90 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Tfere lost.' The ofScial report is that a " tusker " from Ekneligoda's hejd — and it is supposed to be the same •" tusker " as visited the kraal the night before — broke in again so effectually as to release his sisters and brethren, old and young, in distress. But where were the watchmen planted all roimd the kraal the night before with wands and spears immediately alongside the barricade ? Well, ■there can be no doubt they were grievously to blame, and as evidence that they have not escaped punishment I may mention that the Government Agent visited them at an early hour this morning to give them " a bit of his mind," winding up, I beheve, with a smash of " crockery " (!) in- including chatties — a great deprivation for Sinhalese ' ' jungle- wallahs." But, in defence of these poor fellows, let me say that their story has it that they were beset by wild elephants prowling round the kraal from the outside, and so, between two fires, they could not give their attention to their charge as they would have liked. There are further ex- planations however, namely, that their chief Iddamalgoda had to listen to some sharp words the night before on account of the slowness of his people to effect a noosing, the threat finally being that the Government would not allow them to have a single elephant from the herd, since they allowed Prince George to leave without tying up one. The old chief said nothing, merely shrugging his shoulders ; but it is quite conceivable that his people cared little about keeping' strict watch and ward over the herd that was to be taken from them. Another reason for discouragement was the shooting of the big " cow " elephant : the beaters did not like it a bit : — " Here we have been driving in the jungle for weeks, and after we have brought this ele'hant eighty miles or so to within as many feet of the gate of the kraal, you go and shoot it ! " This is certainly not the native plan, and it is all attributable to the terrible haste made in the present proceedings in order " to catch the princes." Another six hours must undoubtedly have brought in the mother as well as calf in safety. From an early hour Mr. Templer (^ho had so steadily accompanied Iddamalgoda's herd to the .kraal) was out with Ekneligoda and the larger herd, now coming rapidly forward. Whether this chiefs circle of beaters had inter- ■cepted and added to their herd the six escaped elephants An Elephant Kraal. 191 is a matter of doubt ; but they certainly brought on a^ many a^ twelve elephants of their own, and beating up -from early morning, the most perfect stillness, being main- iained in and around the stockade — due very much to the great number of departures — shortly after noon the, herd was reported well on in the kraal drive,* and at one o'clock Mr. Saunders's report was : "Drive-in probable in a quarter of an hour." From that time on to five o'clock, most try- ing, vexatious, disappointing, and yet most exciting was the experience. I question if ever before in the history of kraals there has been so strange and mixed an experi- ence. The following sketch will give an accurate idea of the "•'. fTOeHAM - n way in which Ekneligoda's herd had to approach the kraal There is a ridge and valley behind the kraal valley. The herd, after coming down the drive, had rounded the hill and faced the kraal about 1 p.m., as I have said. The cries of the beaters came steadily onwards so far, and • The drive for a couple of miles round the range, down the gorge and on towards the kraal till the stockade was reached, was most finely carried on: the cries of the beaters ever came nearer and nearer; but when the elephants sighted and scented the stockade they stopped short at once.. 192 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. progress, though a good deal slower, was made for an hour more. Most exciting was the scene then ; the proximity of the elephants was evident, the tree-tops waved, the bambus cracked, and every now and then uplifted trunks rose over the bambus, and a rumbling of trumpeting — the simmering of baffled rage— swelled the excitement of the few hidden and silent onlookers, as well as that of the beaters. Between 2 and 3 p.m. the drive-in became so certain and imminent that Eknehgoda and his immediate bodyguard or attendants (five stalwart swarthy fellows) left "the beat " to see if all was right at the Government Agent's corner, whence the entrance could be commanded. This was below the princes' "crow's nest," to-day, alas! deserted. [I wish I had time to give you a proper idea of Ekneligodfi, as he came up the path of watchers outside the drive, biUycock hat and common cloth as usual, closely followed, however, by his umbrella-bearer iu gorgeous cos- tume of flowered comboy, big comb, &c. Evidently the Sinhalese chieftain when on the "corral "path likes to look like his work and to leave all outward show to his servants.] Sm-e enough, Ekneligoda had not been long at our end, when the elephants rushed as if for the entrance ; but they stopped short, irresolute ; then, getting into the open, some of them made a dash at the palisades of the drive facing us, and imniediately we all — a dozen Euro- peans, backing the watchers led by Ekneligoda — shouted and screamed and struck trees and- fences to our hearts' content. This drove them in a mob on the other side, where, at the palisade as well as far up the hillside were a number of planters, besides the usual stockade guard. They soon made it plain toi the herd they could not break through there ; and then was witnessed a sight probably never before paralleled — seven or eight goodly-sized elephants standing in ' a semicircle together, heads to the centre, immediately in front of the entrance to the kraal, and yet not making the slightest attempt to enter ! The rest of the herd farther up the drive kept the beaters back by charging now and then ; * but evidently there was now * About 1.30 the tnsker made' a full charge; there were some visitors at the time with the beaters ; later on, when a great many European volunteers had joined, a regular charge of the herd took place, and three elephants escaped up a ridge along the centre of the drive, being seen from the stockade to pass through the beaters. Altogether four charges were made on the volunteers. An Elephant Kraal. 193 an obstacle in the way, or such demoralization as made it most uncertain what to expect of the elephants. The most likely explanation became evident with the recollection of the " dead elephant," shot the night before inside the en- trance, and the track of blood which no doubt ran along from the barrier. On smell elephants chiefly depend to warn them of danger. The scent of dangei: ahead was only too apparent. " Better perish where we are " seemed the thought of the seven Companions in danger, as they stood rubbing each other sympathetically, than pass that truly bloody gateway and be shot behind it. Baf&ed again and again, and worn out by their exer- tions, it became clear that Ekneligoda's men wanted help. This had been suggested to the chief already once or twice, and Mr. 0. S. Agar, who had been summoned at an early hour by Mr. Dawson to aid with his^ trusty rifle, had been eager for some time to join the drive, and. by discharging blank shot to inspire the, beaters to urge the drive oh.* Mr. W. S. Murray at last conveyed the pressing request to Ekneligoda (who had again rejoined his people) for Mr. Agar and twenty or thirty European volunteers to join the ring, and, after an interval, it was granted on condition that no shot should on any account be fired at the elephants. Mr. Agar, rifle iu hand, quickly followed Mr. Murray to the beat in the valley, and, Mr. Saunders sending the call round, I speedily saw pass on from our side Messrs. Thring, Talbot, and C. E. White, the admiral's flag- lieutenant (the admiral had all day attended closely on the proceedings with imperturbable good humour and encouragement), and three or four more whom, in their hasty descent through the scrub, I did not recognize. A Btill larger body, chiefly planters, passed into the drive round the opposite side of the kraal. Most unfortunately, the volunteers had barely reached the circle of advance when the rain, which had been threatening for some time, began to descend in' torrents : black and hopeless rolled the clouds over the devoted valley and the apparently ill- fated drive ; the thunder boomed and the rain poured, and * Mr. A. J. Campbell had previously pressed to be allowed to lead twenty-five Europeans and fifty native beaters, guaranteeing success with the drive, but, Ekneligoda then protesting, this was considered unadvifiable. 14 194 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. it seemed as if " hari-hari-hqpi-ooi " was at an end. The cry was raised again and agafn, but was positively drowned in the greater noise of the eleineiits. From many points of view this ill-timed rain seeined^to docm the whole enterprise. It gave the Ihirsty elephants refreshment, a breathing space, and fresh courage ; njght was coming on ; the drivers could not stand their ground so close up to the herd all night ; their camp-fires must prove a failure ; — and hope had sunk to zero ! The dead elephant had, apparently, saved a score of living companions ficm being kraaled. I had taken refuge from the rain in a watcher's hut ; but about 4.30, finding t^e rain soaking through, and no appearance of a clearing up, hopeless of a kraal, and anxious to get on ten miles homewards after my boxes, which had, alas, gone on before me, I determined to stait off. I made for Kraaltown in a woeful condition ; the pathways were being swept by torrents, the road down the hill at some corners was a Jierfect rapid, and at its foot the " ela " in front of Kraaltown, which had hitherto been crossed at a low ebb, was becoming an impassable river. I arrived early enough, however, to be carried over with the help of two coolies and a Sinhalese servant, wh6 rushed to our assistance when in a hole near the other side. I found- Kraaltown pretty well deserted ; and, with boxes gone, no " change " was available, though I was drenched to the skin. Eventually, however, ' I secured sufficient for a change by borrowing in four different quarters ! I merely give these trivial personal details to show what kind of an evening had come on, and what the experience of many others was ; and still more what was the state of the men at the post of honour and of danger in the jungle drive. About six o'clock grand tidings came down with men who, drenched to the skin already, thought little of wading or^wimming the river. Gathering up the reports of half a dozen of the eye-witnesses or partakers in the final charges and drives, I jvill endeavour hastily to present a consecutive trustworthy account. Por the elephants now, it was clearly a case of OfScers to the right of tbem, Planters on left of theip, Beaters behind them, Vi'\n]e all the herd -wondered, — An Elephant Kraal. 195 or rather felt a much less pleasant sensatioii. Messrs. Agar, Thring, Talbot, and their party lost little time, rain or no rain, in beating to quarters : they urged the drive in again and again ; shot succeeded shot ; " hari-hari " be- came the rule ; and the drive was one scene of excitement. Several minor charges to the line took place ; but the rain and the advent of the Europeans sent the beaters to huddle under trees and clear out. It became evident that the Europeans could not work without a base line being cut out of the jungle, and the natives were brought back to cut down a semicircular path behind the elephants. Torches were also prepared, weapons improvised, and aU made ready to force the herd on. Mr. Saunders now appears to have, as a last effort, descended into the beat, and, while his volunteers were using every exertion to drive in, he climbed up a tfee to catch the exact situation. I am guessing at this intention from what followed. On the stockade near the drive, at the angle joining the kraal, sat four planters watching the struggle, who had not yet joined in it. Mr. Saunders called on them to lepd a hand, and they immediately passed in, led by Mr. Sandison. Arrived at the beat, and immediately behind the herd, Mr. Sandison, who carried a short spear, looking ro\md for a torch, the most trust- worthy of all weapons of defence in dealing with wild elephants, spied Mr. Unwin alongside with one, and arranged in a word that they should go on, shoulder to shoulder, together. But Mr. Sandison's former com- panions, not understanding the arrangement, pressed on between. Several others from the beating line followed. Sandison advanced right up to the elephant, and with a prod sent it — a huge mother with a httle calf — ^right on the herd with a rush ! Some of the main body of elephants thus charged sprang over the ravine towards the entrance, pressed on by Messrs. Wighton, Thring, Talbot, and others. Not so the wild mother and her calf, the tusker, and two or three more : they only rushed forward to wheel round and charge fairly back into the centre of the Europeans, who, much in advance of the natives, were left without any support. The rank broke, and the volunteers tried, but only tried, to get out of the way in all directions ; for there was no room, and a bambu " batali " jungle is not the place to escape through. Down went the men as if 196 Ceylon 'in the Jubilee Year. shot ; about twenty were in the scrimmage, and more or less " down " — very " down in their luck," it must be confessed, did a good many consider themselves to be. The " Laird of Logie," who 'had done yeoman service all along, went down as if felled, and this was by far the narrowest escape, I learn from the others, for the calf fairly vaulted over his prostrate form ! Intercepted by the native beaters farther out, it is said that the infuriated female and her calf once again returned in a rush through the adjoining ravine up to the entrance; but it is very doubtful if she went in. A few minutes before the gate was closed — on, certainly, a dozen elephants — a part of the barrier near the princes' crow's-nest was the object of a fierce charge by a huge brute — perhaps the " tusker " which Mr. R. H. Morgan, from one of the stands, rightly declared he saw inside. For a hundred yards the barrier shook as if it were going to fall, and the charger got his forefeet through ; but two or three Europeans, led by Mr. H. "Whitham, rushed to the spot and drove him back. Fbiday Morning, February 3rd, 1882. COMPENSATION FOK ALL THE DELAY EXCITING DAY IN THE KRAAL NOOSING AND TYING SIX OUT OF TWELVE ELEPHANTS NOOSED GEEAT SPORT. Yesterday morning, while waiting for the early drive we then expected, we spent some time with the four tame elephants belonging to Mr. Charles de Soysa, and by him, with commendable public spirit, ordered to the kraal in case their services should be required. One huge tusker, " Siriwala," is supposed tp be over eighty years of age, and therefore too old to be \f much service in " noosing " and " tying up " wild elephants. Bat he will be useful in beating up and blocking the way of retreat, since his stately presence is of itself suificient to inspire a wholesomjLierzor in the^TEiiirds of^his'comparalively puny compeers, and as elephants have been described as "half-reasoning animals," they will no doubt keep at a safe distance from Siriwala's tusks. Much less attractive, though far more useful to his owner, is the small and tuskless " Rajah," for which Mr. de Soysa paid double the price of old Siriwala. Eajah cost £100. He goes through a number of per- An Elephant Kraal. 197 formances to perfection. tThe 'cuteness with which te looks after the equivalent of " threepenny bits " in the mnd — blowing away the latter, and at last, when baffled in his attempt to pick np the tiny coin by the edge with his sensitive trunk, drawing it in by suction, was very striking. Once caught, he held it safely until, with up- turned trunk, he delivered it to the keeper on his back. Mr. de Soysa turns his elephants to account in cartiug, ploughing, road-making, and felling jungle in his Eatna- pura and other extensive properties ; and surely this last- mentioned is an occupation for which they are specially well adapted in the low-country, considering the way in which they knock down with their heads trees which would take some time for a Kandyan to cut through. Why should not a " felling " ekphant, more especially for low-country planters, be hired out like a portable steam threshing-mill at home ? Many people, in speaking of last night's work, condemn the native beaters because they refused to do what the Europeans effected; but this is a very inaccurate and foohsh mode of criticism. The natives knew the actual danger of the situation from long experience — the Euro- peans did not. The beaters, knowing that a charge or succession of charges would be the result so soon as the " durais," or " mahatmayas,"* went in with fire and spear, cleared out of the way as fast as possible : the more men in the way in such a case, the more havoc. Finally, we would ask how many of the volunteer beaters and of " the forlorn hope " would repeat their work under the same circumstances were the opportunity offered to them ? We think the men who came out saying they had been taught a lesson which would last a lifetime, were those who took the right view, and instead of depreciating the work of the beaters, who had been driving for weeks together when the elephants were fresh — ^ilot half-starved and worn-out — the opinion of the volunteers respecting their endurance and pluck ought to be sustained. + No wonder that Mr. Dawson should say that he wished the visitors who ridiculed the slow work made on Tuesday and Wednesday * Durai Tamil, Mahatmayd'Bisiix., for master or gentleman. f There can be little doubt that, if the natives had been left to their own time and ways, the whole twenty-three elephants of the two herdt would have been laaaled. li)8 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. had come down to see the character of the jungle through which the work had to be done, or that the princes had been allowed to inspect it. The small cane-like bambu grows so closely together as to be impenetrable ; the only paths are those made by the elephants, or which are cut out by the beaters. The bambu, when levelled by the elephants, is as slippery as ice, and the rain had rendered it, if possible, more so. Let me now describe the spot. The last part of "the drive " between the stockades is about 150 yards across ; it was covered with the densest bambu jungle ; it consisted of two hollows or ravines with a ridge between, and all inclming towards the entrance to the kraal. From the entrance to where the European volunteers took up their position could not be more than 250 yards, the elephants being between. It will be readily seen, therefore, that the ground was as difficult a place to work in as ever an old campaigner or sportsman encountered. Returning to the grand stand, now well filled, it was evident that the four safe, working, tame elephants, and the two or three of the reserve force, had commenced active operations. They were mounted by from two to three noosers each, while several assistants with siJears and ropes followed behind at the sides of the elephants, under which they 0(3casionally ran when there appeared to be any danger of a charge. The wild elephants were in a state of great perturbation, rushing from one side of the kraal to the other, occasionally resting under the few patches of jungle that still remained, going down into the hollows to throw water and mud over their backs — spurt- ing each other with water seemed to be a favourite occupation. It was a most amusing as weU as touching sight to see the little calves do this to the tame elephants when near them once or twice, as if to appease them and make friends. Clear views of all the herds were now had, and the elephants could be counted. The " tusker " is a huge fellow in bulk more than in height: -he has-l©st-half his tail, as if it had been shot off, and his tusks are most unusually far apart in the way they stick out, and they also seem to have had the points broken off. He never seems to lead the herd, but rather to follow after. Never- theless, Mr. Unwin is sure it is the same animal that came to the kraal at midnight, and was shut in and An Elephant Kraal. 199 afterwards let loose. This was in a rflanner proved by the frequency with which he inide for the western gate to-day in his wanderings, in the hope, no doubt, of getting out once more. Once only did he try to charge the palisade, but, before he could get as far, the pointed sticks and spears of the watchers and the shouts of thousands of spectators drove him back. After the "tusker" came one large " cow " and five more medium-sized elephants ; then three wall-grown calves and two puny, diminutive little things whose dusty, tired appearance excited much pity, more especially from the ladies and a few children present. The tame elephants and noosers were now at work, trying to break the herd into detachments, to segregate on 3 or more, so as to get a chance of surrounding and noosing. Very troublesome and difficult is this operation : 033isionally it is done by' good luck in the minimum of tine, while again hours may be spent over it. As it was, after what seemed a long time to the onlookers (relieved, however, by some exciting and still more amusing passages), two, or indeed three, got noosed almost instan- taneously. Save with the little ones, there was no at- teaipt by the herd at fraternizing with, or even recognizing the tame ones. The sight of men on their backs seemed to put an end to all thought of such a thing, and they steadily avoided a mseting as long as they could, dodging; up^gjid down, in and out and round about, until, once too ofien, they came across through a hollow, and the PhiUs- tiaes — in the shape of Banhimi and Ellawala's man of " the breeches "^— were among them. A slight attempt at a charge or fight was quickly repressed with a few blows from the spears, and a thump with the head of the tame elephant ; the " tusker" sheering off, showing no inclina- tion to interfere. But not so with the little calf, who, when two of the larger elephants were jammed up, and a noosed rope, cleverly placed on a leg of each, was tied about them, cried out, and would not be comforted or induced to leave. " Breeches " and Eanh^mi were now in for serious work ; their prizes struggled with elephan- tine strength; one especialiy — ^the mother of a calf — could not be mpved from the spot, and in rage and despair at last fell prostrate, never to rise again ! The struggle was a short but severe one, and the natives at 200 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. once recognized it as a case of "broken heart." The poor brute lay panting for an hour or so afterwards, then heaved a deep sigh, and at last all was still, save that the little calf would not leave her side for a long time, and that once or twice the rest of the herd in passing the spot, attempted to heave up their companion. Par more touching, however, was the sight witnessed the night, before by Mr. D. Mackay, when two elephants made a persistent endeavour to raise their fallen companion, the dead cow, while its little calf tried onc^ more to obtain sustenance from its parent.* . To return, however, to the second large elephant noosed : he was a plump, vigorous, medium-sized fellow, and resisted most determinedly the moving, pushing, and dragging of him halfway across the kraal, and the final tying to the tree. This, in fact, was only accom- plished wben Eanhdmi and " Breeches " jammed him between their elephants, who, evidently fully under- standing what was wanted, pressed so hard and so gtiarded the ways of exit with their trunks, that their captive had perforce to remain perfectly still. All this was a most interesting, instructive sight, and then, when the tying was done — the hind legs only bwng securely clasped in several folds of strong rope, which again were drawn several times round a tree immediately alongside the grand stand — how the poor prisoner writhed and twisted, using all his prodigions strength to break away the rope, or pull the tree down'^ running round and round in despair of an outlet, pawing the earth, stretching him- self with eel-like contortions, and then, in hopelessness of any release, and under the agony of his disgrace, like a true oriental, throwing up clouds of dust over his head and back with his trunk ! Very soon, another of similar size and appearance was noosed and dragged np a l^ng way to a tree facing Byrde's stand, and one of the active bull-calves being simultaneously caught; very quickly the fun became "fast and furious." This little calf gave more trouble than the two big ones ; the noosers left him. as soon as one leg was confined to a tree, and to less ex- perienced bands was left the task of tying a rope round his neck and shoulders so as to keep him quiet and secure. • Messrs. W. L. H. Skeen and Co. 'a photograph of one of these, pathetic incidents is reprodnced in the illostiation facing page 179. An Elephant Kraal. 201 But how the fellow resisted, struggled, twisted, and threw" the rope off ! The ncose had to he passed over his head as well as trnnk, hut the latter was sent out at all impos- sible angles, so that no rope could be placed round it. At last, Messrs. C. Agar and Mtinro descended to the rescue, but they were baffled again and again; as soon as the rope was round it slipped off ; they were charged and had to fly hack ; the little fellow bellowed like a bull ; he blew at them, he would not be tied, and not until seme one seized the trunk and held it, was the rope got round and a secure shoulder-knot made. This done, the calf set up a regular series of bellowings, making more ado than all the others put together. Great was the amuse- ment afforded by this capture, and again and again was the wish expressed throughout the stand that the princes had stayed for this day's experiences, which well repaid p11 the trouble an^ delay. But still greater fun was to follow ; another calf, plump and strong, had been noosed, as well as a third big ele- phant, and as these were being pulled towards two suitable trees one of the noosers, getting an ugly shove from the calf, received a wound on his forehead which drew blood. Almost simultaneously Mr. Saunders sent orders to release these two captives at once, and noose the " tusker," as many had to leave and the day was now wearing on. No sooner was the calf released than he charged right and left, with trunk uplifted, bellowing as he went, and carrying all before him among rows of native beaters and a number of planters and others who had now descended into the kraal near the stands. The scene was comical in the extreme ; there was just the least spice of danger to add zest to it, but the little fellow turned at the show of a pointed stick. It seemed as if he said, "You have given me a great fright ; now I'll do my best to give you. a taste of the same." "White clothes especially seemed to provoke his anger ; one or two gentlemen in white coats were followed again and again ; one of them, Mr. E. Smyth, between laughing and dodging and keeping off his mad but 'cute little antagonist, had quite enough to do, and the spectators roared at the fun. Tired out at last, the little fellow with a loud grunt made for the tame elephants, and ranged himself alongside, as if with his friends. He did not seem to care about the -w-ild herd 202 Ceylon in tlie Jubilee Year. now ; he was a civilized elephant, and followed the tamers wherever they went. At last he found out Soysa's " tasker " standing on one side, and charging under him created a tremendous uproar, for the tusker didn't like it a bit,,aad trumpeted out what seemed to be: "You miad your own business, you young rascal, or I'll settle you." Nothing, however, could quiet this " irrepressible " alto- gether ; at odd moments he would make a charge on his own account right- across the kraal, and there can be no doubt that he greatly disturbed the rest of the noosing, so that it was a pity he was let loose, save for the amuse- ment he gave to the company. The wild " tusker " would not be caught ; he showed no fight, would shirk a broadside, slunk aside and dodged ; and yet it became evident the tame elephants and the noosers did not care to get too near him. The fact is he is too old to be trained, and is of no service at all, save for his ivories, which can be' got by shooting. [" Cared of sores " is the expression used to indicate a tamed elephant.] Enough had, however, been seen to warrant all who waited over Thursday, in pronouncing the kraal a success in showing the various operations connected with one ; a notable success in affording a more than usual amount of sport and comical fun, as also in raising, at moments, feelings of sympathy and pity; an extraordinary success in the unprecedented work done by European volunteers — " the forlorn hope," the sudden charge, the marvellous escape, and the crowning victory in the forcing in of a dozen elephants into the kraal on Wednesday night. How many more of the six or seven wild elephants I left running about the kraal were noosed to-day (Satur- day), and whether the " tusker " waa tied, I have yet to learn ; but my part as narrator is over, and I can only say I am not likely ever to forget The Labugamkanda Keaal in Honour of Princbs Albert Victor and George in 1882. APPENDIX n. The following interesting extracts from the first volume of Major Forbes's " Eleven Years in Ceylon " * ar€i given with the permission of the publisher. The orthography of native names found in the original has been retained. [Nc. 1.— CHAPTEE X] THE ANCIENT CAPITAL, ANUEADHAPOOEA. " Remnants of things that have pass'd away, Fragments of stone rear'd by creatures of clay," — ^Btbon, In ages of impenetrable antiquity, the plain on which Anuradhapoora was afterwards built had acquired a sacred character ; for it is recorded that when the first Buddha of the present era visited this place he found it already hallowed as a scene of the ancient rehgious rites of pre- ceding generations, and consecrated by Buddhas of a former era. The position of Anuradhapoora has nothing to recommend it for the capital of Ceylon ; and the site, if not chosen from caprice, was probably dictated by superstition. It would not, therefore, be difficult to account for its final desertion, consequent decay, and present desolation, even if history had not preserved a record of the feuds, famines, wars, and pestilence which at various t^mes ' oppressed the country, and reduced the number of inhabitants, so as to render the remainder * "Eleven Tears in Ceylon; comprising Sketches of the Field Sports and Natural History of that Colony, and an Account of its History and Antiquities." By Major Forbes, 78th Highlanders. 2 vols. London : Eichard Bentley. t For the latest account of Anuradhapoora ai^d the ancient ruins, Bee " The Buried Cities of Ceylon," by S. M. Burrows, C.C.S., published by A. M. and J. Ferguson. 204 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 205 incapable of maintaining the great embankments of their artificial lakes. These having burst, their waters spread over the country as their channels were neglected, and this made its unhealthuieBS permanent by f oroning noxious swamps and nourishing unwholesome forests. The warm and damp nature of the Ceylon climate excites an* activity of vegetation, which the indolence and apathy of the native character are not calculated to struggle against; and the present population is inadequate either iii number or energy to do more than resist the incessant effort of the vegetable kingdom, stimulated by an' eternal spring, to extend its beautiful but baneful luxuriance over that portion of the surrounding districts which man still re- tains in precarious subjectioli.* Anuiadhapoora is first mentioned by that name about 500 years before Christ ; it was then a village, and the residence of a prince who took the name of Aiiuradha on his settling at this pl^ce, which the King Pdnduwdsa had assigned to him when he came to visit his sister the Queen Bhadda-kachdma.. They were grandchildren of Amitodama, the paternal uncle of Gautama Buddha. It was chosen for the capital by the King Pddukdbhya, b.c. 437 ; and in the reign of Dewenipiatissa, which commenced ac. 307, it received the <5ollar-bone of Gautama Buddha, his begging-dish fiUed with relics, and a branch of the bo-tree under which he had reclined. Anurddhapoora had been sanctified by the presence of former Buddhas, and these memorials of Oautama increased its sacred character ; additional reUcs were subsequently brought, for which temples were reared by successive sovereigns ; and Wahapp, who commenced hitf reign a.d. 62, finished the walls of the city, which were sixty-four miles in «xtent, each side being Bixteen miles, and thus enclosed a space of 256 square .miles. Anurddhapoora is mentioned, or rather is laid dbwa in * Six years after the time of which I am now writing, Govenunent- lormed a road to Aripo, and established a European officer at- Annr&dhapoora as revenue and judicial agent for the district, in order, if possible, to hasten the development of its resources, ^^^n I left the island it was considered an unhealthy station, but', by perseverance, there is little doubt that it will improve. Had this district been formerly unhealthy, Anur&dhupoora would not bo long have remained the capital of the island. [Anurddhapoora district and ■ town have, we need scarcely say,- been greatly imprpved of leceAf' years. — J. F.] 206 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. the map of Ptolemy in its proper position, and by the name of Anurogrammum.* For upwards of 1200 years Amirddhapoora remained as the capital of the island, with the exception of one reign, ■when a parricide and usurper transferred the insignia of royalty to the impregnable rock-fort of Sigiri. In the eighth century Polannarua was chosen as the capital in preference to Anuradhapoora ; at which place the fame of wealth had survived its possession, and too often attracted the spoiler. The religious edifices were occasionally repaired by pious sovereigns until the time of Mdgha, a successful invader, who held sway in Ceylon from a.d. 1219 until 12,40, during which time he completed the destruction of many temples, and endeavoured to destroy the Cingalese records. "Knox, speaking of Anurddhapoora, wliich he passed in making his escape from captivity in a.d. 1G79, says, " It is become a place of solemn worship, in consequence of the bo-tree under which Buddha sat." He adds, " They report ninety kings + have reigned there successively, where, by the ruins that stiU remain, it appears they spared not for pains and labour to build temples and high monuments to the honour of this god, as if they had been born only to hew rocks and great stones, and lay them up in heaps : these kings are now happy spirits, having merited it by these their labours." In making his escape along the bed of the Malwatte-oya, | Knox passed another part of the ruins, but does not seem to have been aware that they were part of Anuradhapoora. He says, " Here and there, by the side of this river, is a world of hewn stone pillars and other heaps of hewn stones, which I suppose formerly were buildings ; and in three or foui' places axe the ruins of bridges built of stone, some remains of them yet standing upon stone pillars." The above extracts are taken from "An Historical Eelation of the Island of Ceylon in the East Indies, by Robert Knox, a captive there for nearly twenty years." * Gr4ma, or Gramya, is used for a town ; so also is Poora, but the latter generally means city. t It is the general belief of uneducated natives that the name of the city is derived from Anu-Bajah (ninety kings) ; but it was from the name of the constellation Anurddha, under which it was founded. } Malwatte-oya, flower-garden river. The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 207 This is a -work of great interest^ and was originally pub- lished in London in 1681. Nothing can be more admir- able than the extent of memory, acute observation, and inflexible veracity exhibited in his account of the country and people; nor can anything be more interesting than the simple narrative of his own Bufferings. His persever- ance, fortitude, and firm rehgious belief enabled him to overcome misfortunes, to rescue himself from a tedious captivity, and finally to regain his station as commander of a ship under the East India Company. The father of Eobert Knox was also named Eobert :. he commanded the Ann frigate in the service of the East India Company, and saUed on the 2l6t of January, 1657, from the Downs ; the vessel was dismasted in a storm on the Coromandel coast on the 19th of November, 1659, and proceeded to the bay of Cotiar (opposite to Trinko- malee) to refit, and with permission to trade there. For about twenty days the crew of the ship were allowed to land and return without any interruption ; but after that, a native chief, by order of the Kandian king, contrived by falsehood and treachery to seize the captain and seven of his men ; then, by the same devices, he got hold of another boat and her crew of eleven men. He next attempted to gain possession of the ship, by inducing the captain to send an order to the officer on board, directing him to bring the vessel up the river ; the captain sent his own son, but.it was to warn the officer, and direct him to proceed without loss of time to Porto Novo. Young Knox, however, returned to share hig father's captivity ; and the whole of those taken prisoners were removed into the interior of the country. The captain and his son (Eobert) were sent to the village of Bandar Koswatte, and there were soon attacked by severe fever and ague, which carried off the father, February the 9th, 1661. Young Knox was then very ill, and it was not without mu'ch difficulty that he managed to get his father's body buried ; and for many months he suffered severely from the effects of the same disease. It was not long after the loss of his father that he accidentally had an opportunity of purchasing an English Bible at a price sufficiently moderate for his means. Never for a moment laying aside his design of escape, yet behaving with such dis- cretion as never to incur suspicion from the jealous tyrant 208 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. ■who then ruled in Kandy, Knox acquired a character for prudence, industry, and honesty, which is even yet pre- served by tradition in the neighbourhood of the place where he resided, and where a spot is still known as the -white man's garden.* After a captivity of nearly twenty years' vduration he contrived to accomplish his escape, not without great danger from the numerous wild animals and crocodiles that are to be found near the course of the Malwatte-oya, which flows through a dense forest and a country void of population. Knox reached the Dutch fort of Aripo on the 18th of October, 1679 ; afterwards, having been sent to Batavia, he from thence returned to England in September, 1680, and was soon after made captain of the Tarquin in the East India Company's service. All the ruins at Anuradhapoora, even the lofty monu- ments which contain the relics of the Buddha, are either entirely covered wi,th jungle, or partly obscured by forests ;t these the imagination of natives has peopled with unholy phantoms, spirits of the unrighteous, doomed to wander near the mouldering walls which were witnesses of their guilt, and are partakers of their desolation. Although simplicity is the most distinguishing cha- racteristic of the ancient architectural remains of the ■Cingalese, yet some of the carving in granite might com- pete with the best modern workmanship of Europe (in the sam^^material) both as to depth and sharpness of •cu'tting ; and the sculptures at Anuradhapoora, and places built in remote ages, are distinguished from any attempts of modern natives, not less by the more animated action of the figures than by greater correctness of proportion. The only place clear of jungle was in front of the Maha-wihare (great temple), where a shady tree occupied the centre of a square, and a stone pillar, fourteen feet high, stood beside the figure of a bull cut in granite, and revolving on a pivot. In the entrance from this square into the Maha-wihare are a few steps admirably carved with laborious devices, and still in perfect preservation. Ascending these, and passing through a mean building of modern construction, you enter an enclosure 345 feet in length by 216 in breadth, which surrounds the court of frhe Bo-tree, designated by Baddbists as Jaya-Sri-maha- ' Between Kandy and Gampola. t Great clearings have taken place of late years. — J. F. The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 209 Bodinwahawai (the great, famous, and triumphant fig- tree).* Within the walls are perceived the remains of several small temples ; and the centre is occupied by the sacred tree, and the building in which it is contained or ■supported. This tree is the principal object of veneration to the numerous pilgrims who annually visit Anuradha- poora : they believe what their teachers assert, and their histories record, that it is a branch of the tree under which Gautama sat the day he became a Buddha, and that it was sent from Patalipoora by the King Dhar- masoka, who gave it in charge to his daughter Sangha- mitta ; this priestess had been preceded by her brother, Mihindoo, who, b.c. 307, was successful in re-establishing in Ceylon the purity of the Buddhist religion. No one of the several stems or branches of the tree is more than two feet in diameter ; and several of the largest project through the sides of the terraced building in which it is growing. This structure consists of four platforms, decreasing in size as you ascend, and giving room for a broad walk round each of them.t From the self- reno- vating properties of the bo-tree, it is not at all impossible that this one might possess the great antiquity claimed for it by the sacred guardians :| if so, the forbearance of Malabar conquerors must be accounted for by their con- sidering this tree sacred to other gods; the profits derived from pilgrims may also have induced them to give full weight to the alleged partiality of Brahma for this beau- tiful tree. One side of the square in front of the Maha-wihare is * Ficus religiosa, generally called by natives Bo-gaha, bo-tree, the name generally used by Europeans. f The spot on which the tree stands is believed to have at former periods been the position where the emblematic trees of former Buddhas grew, viz. Kakusanda Buddha's, the mahari tree ; Kona- gamma Buddha's, the atika tree (fious glomerata) ; and Kaseyapa's, the nigrodi (baniayan). J Buddhists assert that the sacred tree at Buddha Gya in Bahar "was planted by Dugdha-Kamini, King of Singhal-Dwipa, 414 years before the birth of our Saviour. "^^amiZton's E.I. Gazetteer. Dootoogaimoonoo, King of Ceylon, and a most zealous Buddhist, reigned from B.C. 164 until b.c. 140 ; and if the tree at Gya was planted by him, as above mentioned, not only the original one there, but also one planted by Dharmasoka, King of India, in the fourth century before Christ, at the samr city, must have been destroyed by the Votaries of an adverse faith. 15 210 Ceylon in the Juhilee Year. occupied by the ruins of the Lowa-Maha-Paya, called also (from the materials with which it was covered) the Brazen Palace. The remains of this building consist of 1600 stone pillars placed in forty parallel lines, forty pillars in each, and occupying a square space, each side of which is 234 feet in length. The pillars in the middle of this ruin are still eleven and a half feet above the ground, and measure two feet in breadth by one foot and a half in thictness ; the middle pillars are slightly ornamented, but those in the outer Uiies are plain, and only half their thickness, having been split by means of wedges, the marks of which operation they still retain. The Lowa- Maha-Paya was erected by the King Dootoogaimoonoo B.C. 142 : its height was 270 feet ;. it contained 1000 apartments for priests, and was covered with one sheet of metal. This edifice seems soon to havel fallen into decay ; and was rebuilt by DootoogaimoonoO'S successor, who reduced its height, making it seven instead of nine storeys, which it was at its original formation. It underwent many repairs, and was varied in height by several different kings, until a.d. 286, at which time it was thrown down by Mahasen during the period of his temporary apostacy : so completely did this monarch execute his work of destruction on this and several other religious buildings, that their sites were ploughed up and sown with grain. Having returned to his former faith, Mahasen commenced rebuilding the Maha-Paya, but died before it was finished; and it was completed by his son and successor, Kitsiri Maiwan, soon after his accession in a.d. 302. It was then that the original pillars were split to supply the places of those which had been broken. Amongst the sacred occupants of this building, the jiriests most eminent for their piety were exalted to the uppermost storey, whilst those who had fewest claims to sanctity^'ere lodged nearest to the earth. As native stau's only differ in name from ladders, the ascent of nine stories must have been a severe trial to the bodily infirmities of the elder priests-; but one of the strongest prejudices of the natives, and about which they continue to be exceedingly jealous, was not allowing an equal or inferior to sit on any seat or remain in any place more elevated than them- selves. Fiom adherence to punctilio on this subject, there was a ludicrous scene at Colombo in 1802, when the The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 211 Kandian ambassadors remonstrated against entering the carriage sent to convey them to an audience with Governor North, because the coachman was placed on a more elevated seat than the one which they were to occupy. This weighty matter was happily adjusted to their satisfaction, and they entered the carriage; but positively refused to allow the doors to be shut, fearing they should appear as prisoners. On the left of the road leading from the Maha-wihare towards the dagoba of EuwanweUi, and in thick jungle, six carved stones define the limits of a small mound. This is the spot^where a grateful people and a zealous priesthood performed the last duties to the remains of Dootoogaimoonoo ; a king whose valour and piety had restored the supremacy of the Cingalese race and Buddhist rehgion, and who had not only repaired the injuries which the capital had sustained from foreign invaders of an adverse faith, but had ornamented it with many of these buildings which even now attract attention and excite wonder after having endured for 2000 years. The quantity of game in the immediate neighbourhood of the ruins was astonishing, and in no part of the island are elephants more numerous ; for within the precincts of this hallowed city, at the time I speak of, 1828, no native would have ventured to transgress the first com- mandment of the Buddha, viz., " From the meanest insect up to man, thou shalt not kill." As if aware of their right of sanctuary, whole herds of spotted deer and flocks of pea-fowl allowed us to approach very near to them ; and while employed in examining the ruins, in the pre- sence and with the assistance of the priests, I deemed it advisable to commij; no murder on the denizens of the forest ; . but on the last day of our stay we left the gen- tlemen of the long yellow robe behind, and proceeded to hunt deer with Mr. C 's dogs in a plain about three miles from the place of our temporary residence. When not employed in speaking, our followers seemed to be eternally occupied in chewing betel, a custom almost universal at this time with all ranks of natives ; and although the name of the leaf of a creeping-plaut re- sembling pepper is used as a general term, three com- ponent parts are necessary for this masticatory; viz. areka-nut, which is used in very thin slices; fine pow- 212 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. dered lime, made into a paste; and a small portion of these two being rolled np in a betel-leaf, the whole is put in the mouth. This preparation tinges the saliva, the Ups, and even the teeth of a dark-red colour: but I believe it to be perfectly wholesome, and to have some useful properties, such as soothing nervous excitement, and acting as a stimulant, without any of the evil effects produced by the use of spirits, which nevertheless is, I am afraid, too often superseding the use of betel. Those who could afford it mixed up cardamom-seeds and the leaves of various aromatic plants with the areka-nat, and the value of the instruments for preparing the betel gave one a pretty good idea of the wealth and rank of the possessor : a pair of nippers for slicing the areka-nut, a small box for holding the Ume, and a straw case to contain betel-leaves, might, I beheve, have been found tucked in the waist-cloth of every one of the several hundred natives who accompanied us. Night and day ■they were chewing betel, and when they were awake they seemed to talk of nothing else ; exchanging leaves and the contents of their lime boxes seemed like the old Scotch custom of exchanging snuff-mulls. Amongst the ruins of this city, the diigobas,* or monu- mental tombs of the relies of Buddha, the mode in which they are constructed, the object for which they are in- tended — above all, then* magnitude — demand particular notice. The characteristic form of aU mbnumental Bud- dhistical buildings is that of a bell-shaped tomb sur- mounted by a spire, and is the same in all countries which have had Buddha for then- prophet, lawgiver, or god. Whether in the outline of the cumbrous mount, or in miniature within the laboured excavation, this peculiar shape (although variously modified) is general, and enables us to recognize the neglected and unhonoured shrines of Buddha in countries where his religion no longer exists, and his very name is unknown. The gaudy .'jhoemadoo of Pegu, the elegant Toopharama of Anuriid- hapoora, the more modem masonry of Boro Budor in Java, are but varieties of the same general form ; and in the desolate caves of Carli, as in the gaudy excavations and busy scenes of Dambool, there is still extant the sign * DM^oba, from Dliatu-garbe (womb, or receptacle of a relic) : sec engraving on page 129. The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 213 of Buddha — the tomb of his relics. Ddgobas may be referred to the first stage of architectural adventure, although I cannot agree with those writers who assert that the character and form of Buddhist buildings betray evident marks of having been borrowed from the figure of a tent; for in my opinion their progress may clearly be traced , from the humble heap of earth which covers the ashes or urn of the dead up to the stupendous mount of masonry which we see pUed above some shrunken atom of mortality. These monuments in Ceylon are built around a small cell, or hollow stone, containing the relic ; along with which a few ornaments and emblems' of Buddhist worship were usually deposited, such as pearls, precious stones, and figures of Buddha : the number and value of these depended on the importance attached to the relic, or the wealth of the person who reared the monument. The description given in Cingalese -histories of the rich offerings and rare gems deposited with some of the relics is very splendid, but the existence of wealth and wonders which cannot be reached may well be doubted; the accounts of the external decorations and ornaments of these dagobas are also magnificent, and probably more correct. In a sohona, or Cingalese cemetery, may be perceived a variety of miniature dagobas : if the little earthen mound raised over the ashes of the dead be encircled with a row of stones, we see the origin of the projecting basement ; if the tomb be that of a headman or high priest, we may find it cased with stone, and per- haps surrounded with a row of pillars : on all these we find an aewaria branch planted ; which, after taking root. and shooting out its cluster of leaves, gives the semblance of the spire and its spreading termination.* In short, the monumental tombs of Buddha's rehcs only differ in size, and in the durability of their materials, from the humble heap which covers the ashes of an obscure priest or village chief. The tomb of Alyattes, as described by Herodotus, and which he informs us as a monument of art was only second to the remains in Egypt and Babylon, appears to have been of the same form as the sepulchral mounds of the Buddhists. In material and construci^ion * Called Kot by the Cingalese, and Tee by the Siamese. 214 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. the dagobas of Anuradliapoora far exceed the tomb of Alyattes, and fully equal it m size. All the dagobas at Anuradhapoora were built of brick, and incrusted with a preparation of lime, coco-nut water, and the glutinous juice of a fruit which grows on a tree called by the natives Paragaha. This preparation is of a pure white ; it receives a polish nearly equal to marble, and is ex- tremely durable. The EuwanwelH-saye, one of these monuments of peculiar sanctity, was built by the King Dootoogaimoonoo ; but the spire being unfinished at the time of his death, b.c. 140, it was completed by his brother and successor, Saidatissa. It stands in the centre of an elevated square platform, which is paved with large stones of dressed granite, each side being about 500 feet in length, and surrounded by a fosse seventy feet in breadth ; the scarp, or sides of the platform, is sculptured to represent the fore-parts and heads of elephants, pro- jecting and appearing to support the massive super-' structure to which they form so appropriate an ornament. In the embanliment surrounding the fosse, a pillar, deep sunk in the earth, still projects sixteen feet above the surface, and is four feet in diameter ; this stone is believed to have been removed from the spot where the dngoba now stands, and that it once bore an inscription and prophecy, which in a superstitious age no doubt caused its own fulfilment. The prediction ran, that at the place where this stone stood, a superb dagoba of 120 cubits* in height would be reared by a fortunate and pious monarch. Dootoogaimoonoo, during his last illness, caused him- self to be conveyed near to this monument of his piety ; and when all hopes of completing the spire during his lifetime were at an end, his brother had the model of it made of light timber : this placed on the dome, and covered with cloth, satisfied the anxious wish of the expiring king. The jilace to which Dootoogaimoonoo was conveyed is a large granite slab surrounded with piUars ; near this a stone, hollowed out in the shape of a man's body, is shown as the bath which he used when suffering from the bite of a venomous snake. On the stone pavement which surrounds the Ruwan- * Carpenter's ciabit, t^vo feet three inches. The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 215 -welli-saye lie? the broken statue of the King Bdtiyatissa, who reigned from b.o. 19 until a.d. 9, and appears to have been one of those persevering zealots who " hope to merit heaven by making earth a heU : " the marks of his Jmees worn in the granite pavement are pointed out as memorials of superior piety, and certainly, if j,uthentic, bear lasting testimony to the importunity of his prayers or the sincerity of his devotions. It is recorded of this king that by supplication he obtained pivine assistance to enable him to open the underground entrance into the interior cell of this temple; and that he succeeded in entering and worshipping the many relics of Buddha which it contained. In the thirteenth century, M^ga, a ioreign invader, instead of faith, employed force : he 'broke into the sanctum, plundered its treasures, pulled down the temples around RuwanweUi, and ruined its dAgoba, which was originally 270 feet in height, but is now a conical mass of bricks overgrown with brushwood, and 189 feet high. Sanghatissa placed a pinnacle of glass on the spire of EuwanweUi, as the author of the Mahawanso says, " to serve as a protection against light- ning." Sanghatissa reigned four years, and was poisoned in A.D. 246. The Mahawanso was written between A.D. 459 and 477, and shows .that the non-conducting property of glass with regard to the electric fluid had jbeen remarked previous to that period. At a considerable distance, from the outer enclosure of the dagoba the priest pointed out to me a stone slab twelve and a half feet long by nine and a half feet broad, which is supposed to cover the secret entrance by which the pious king, as well as the ruthless . invader, gained -admittance to the interior of the Ruwanwelli-saye. A SevT weeks previously to our visit, the late high-priest, an albino, had died at a very advanced age : he had been long known by the appellation of the White Priest of Anurd,dhapoora; and his senior pupil, who accompanied me in exploring the ruins, aspifed to succeed his master. I was then along with the agent of the district, through whose recommendation he expected to be appointed; therefore no spot was so sacred, and no secret so precious, but that it might be commimicated to me. The aspirant ■became high-priest, and ever after denied to European -visitors aU knowledge of the secret entrance to--this menu- 216 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. ment, as well as several other places of peculiar sanctity ;. neither could it be brought to his unwilling remembrance that he had ever known them himself, or pointed them out to any one. The history of this building, its tradi- tions, the list of offerings made to the relics enshrined within it, and the splendour of its external appearance, are recorded at length ; but its chronicle contains so- much exaggeration in regard to the number of the offer- ings, and so little variety of events, that the specimen already given may perhaps be considered more than sufficient, and will be my excuse for not dilating on the history of other buildings, of which only similar facts are written, and similar dull details have been preserved. Toophdramaya, although inferior to many in size, yet far exceeds any dagoba in Ceylon, both in elegance and unity of design, and in the beauty of the minute sculp- tures on its tall, slender, and graceful columns; this ddgoba is low, broad at the top, and surrounded by four lines of pillars, twenty-seven in each line, fixed in the elevated granite platform so as to form radii of a circle of which the monument is the centre. These pillars are twenty-four feet in height, with square bases, octagonal- shafts, and circular capitals ; the base and shafts, fourteen inches in thickness, and twenty-two feet in length, are each of one stone ; the capitals are much broader than the base, and are highly ornamented. Toophiiramaya was built over the collar-bone of Gautama, when it was brought from Maghada in the reign of Dewenepeatissa, B.c; 307 ; and the ruins of a building which adjoins it received the Dalada relic when it arrived in Ceylon,. A.i>. 309. Lankardmaya was erected in the reign of Mahasen, between a.d. 276 and a.d. 302 ; it is in better preserva- tion, but much inferior in effect to the Toophdrdmaya, from which the design of the building is copied. The Abhayagiri ddgoba, built by the King Walagam Bahoo, between the period of his restoration to the throne- B.c. 88, and his death b.c, 76, was the largest ever erected in Ceylon : it was 405 feet* in height ; and the platform- on which it stands, as weU as the fosse and surrounding wall, are proportionately extensive. The height of thie- * 180 Cingalese carpenter's cubits. The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 217 min is now 230 feet, and the length of the outer wall one nule arid three quarters; the whole of the building, except a few patches near the summit, is covered with thick jungle and high trees, even where the interstices of the pavement, composed of large granite slabs, were all that yielded nourishment to the trees or secured their roots. The Jaitawanard,maya was commenced by the King Mahasen, and completed by his successor, Kitsiri Maiwan, A.D. 310 : its height was originally 315 feet,* and its ruins are stiU 269 feet above the surrounding plain. A gentleman, who visited Anuradhapoora ia 1832, calcu- lated the cubic contents of this temple at 456,071 cubia yards; and remarked that a brick wall, twelve feet in height, two feet in breadth, and upwards pf ninety-seven miles in length, might be constructed with the still re- maining materials. Even to the highest pinnacle the Jaitawanaramaya is encompassed and overspread by trees and brushwood ; these are the most active agents of ruin to the ancient buildings of Ceylon, as their increasing roots and towering stems, shaken by the wind., overturn and displace what has' long resisted, and would have slowly yielded before time and the elements. Dtiring our stay at Anurddhapoora, a Kandian lady presented a petition to the agent of Government, request- ing his interference on behalf of her son, who was detained as a State prisoner for having been implicated in the re- bellion of 1817-18. She stated that he was her only son, and that the large family estates were now ravaged and laid waste by wild animals'; that in this remote district^ for want of his superintendence, the tanks for irrigation were neglected, and cultivation was rapidly decreasing ; moreover, that he was the hereditary guardian of the sacred edifices of this ancient capital, and that in his ab- sence the buildings and temples were neither protected nor repaired, the revenues being either misappUed by the priests, or appropriated to their own use. The old lady also alluded to the antiquity of their family, whose ances- tor, she said, had accompanied the branch of the sacred tree from Patalipoora,! b.c. 307. On inquiring, I found that the very remote antiquity of this family was acknow- » 140 carpenter's cuMts. t The modem Patna. 218 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. ledged by the jealous chiefs of the mountain districts; and I conld not help feeling an interest in the last scion of a race whose admitted ancestry reached far beyond the line- age of Courtenay, or the descent of Howard. This chief soon afterwards obtained permission to visit his estates ; and at a subsequent period, having assisted in securing the pretender to the Kandian throne (who had been secreted since 1818 in this part of the country), he was not only permitted to return to his estate, but was reinstated in office as chief of the district. Although not a clever man, his appearance and manners were diguified and gentlemanlike : he died in 1837, leaving a family to continue the race, and bear the dignified appellation of Surya Kumara Singha (descended from a prince of the solar and the lion race). The system of adoption in the Kandiau law, renders the continuation of a particular family much more probable than in any country where such a proceeding is unknown, or unsanctioned by fixed institutions or all-powerful cus- tom. In Kandian law, a child adopted in infancy (and born to parents of equal rank with the person who adopted the infant) has the same right of inheritance both to titles and estates as if the actual child of the person who had become its guardian, and who, after a public adoption, was called and considered the father. In general, the children adopted were selected from the nearest relations of the person, who determined through this means to prevent all risk of being without children to watch his declining years, and inherit his family estates. Several of the highest rank of Kandian chiefs pretend to trace the descent of their families from those natives of Maghada who accompanied Mihindoo and the relics of Buddha from the continent in the fourth century before Christ. Two families claim descent from Upatissa, a minister of state, an interim king for one year, b.o. 505 ; and one of these, who main- tained his right by inheritance to the name which he bore (Upatissa), produced to me a bos containing a quantity of dust, and some minute frail shreds of tissue, which, he said, were the remams of a dress worn by his royal and somewhat remote ancestor. I have only seen a few written genealogies of Cingalese chiefs, and, in following them, found wider and more startling gaps than anj' I had been accustomed to leap over in a backward trace to the pro- The Ancient Capital, Anuraclliapoora. 219 genitor of some individuals who figure in the modern British peerage. Amidsj; the ruins of the palace stand six square pillars supporting some remains of a cornice ; feach of these pillars is formed of a single stone, eighteen feet in length and three in breadth. There also is the stone canoe made by order of King Dootoogaimoonoo in the second century before Christ, to hold the liquid prepared for the refection of the priests ; it measures sixty-three feet in length, three and a half feet in breadth, and two feet ten inches in depth. "With- in the precincts of the royal buildings, projecting from the mould, and half-covered by the roots of a tree, a stone trough, from which the State elephants .drank, recalled to mind the history of King Elloona, and the busy, turbulent scenes enacted in bygone ages within those walls, where now the growl of the elephant, the startling rush of wild hog and deer, the harsh screams of peacock and toucan, increase the solemn but cheerless feelings inspired by a gloomy forest waving o'er a buried city. Elloona having murdered his cousin, the Queen Singha Wallee, became King of Ceylon, a.d. 88, and was soon after imprisoned by* his rebellious subjects: the queen, in des: pair, caused her. infant son to be dreSsed in his most costly robes, and ordered the nurse to place him at the feet of the State elephant, tiiat the child might be killed, and escape the indignities inflicted on the monarch. Tlje nurse did as she was commanded; but the elephant (with- out hurting the young prince) broke his chain, rushed through the guards, threw down the gates, and forced his way to the royal captive, who got on his back, and, rushing through the streets of the capital, escaped in safety to the sea-coast. From thence he embarked for the Malaya country: having raised an army there, he returned to Ceylon, and regained his kingdom after ?in absence of three years. Elloona recognized with affectionate joy the animal that had been the means of saving his hfe : and several villages were appointed to furnish food and attendants to the royal elephant during the remainder of his life. The Isuramuni Wihare (a temple partly cut in the rock), the Saila Chytia (a small' monument built on a spot where Buddha had tested himself), and the tomb of Elala, are amongst the ruins visited by the pious pilgrims. Elala was a successful invader who conquered Ceylon, b.c. 204, 220 Ceylon in the Jxibilee Year. by means of an army which he led from Sellee (Tanjore).. The Cingalese princes who possessed the southern and mountainous parts of the island as tributaries becoming powerful, Elala built thirty-two forts to protect the level country on the south against then* incursions ; these forts- were taken in succession by the Prince Dootoogaimoonoo, who finally encountered his rival in single combat, and slew him with a javelin. They were each mounted on an. elephant, and as the battle was preceded by a challenge, both the leaders fought under the insignia of royalty : on the spot where Elala fell, Dootoogaimoonoo erected a monument and pillar, on which there was inscribed a, prohibition against any one passing this tomb in any con- veyance, or with beating of drums. Elala is described, even by the Buddhist historians, as being a good ruler and valiant warrior ; he must have been an old man when he encountered Dootoogaimoonoo, having reigned for forty- four years after completing the conquest of Ceylon : his death occurred b.c. 161. Time has hallowed the monu- ment which it has failed to obscure, and the ruined tomb of an infidel is now looked upon by many Buddhist pil- grims as the remnant of a sacred edifice : although twenty centuries have elapsed since the death of Elala, I do not believe that the injunction of his conqueror has ever been disregarded by a native. In 1818, Pilame Talawe, the head of the oldest Kandian family, when attempting to escape after the suppression of the rebellion in which he had been engaged, alighted from his litter, although weary and almost incapable of exertion ; and not knowing the precise spot, walked on until assured that he had passed far beyond this ancient memorial. Pilame Talawe was apprehended in this district, and transported to the Isle of France ; from whence he was allowed to return in 1830, and soon after died from the effects of intemperance. He had narrowly escaped death in 1812 for treason to the King of Kandy, as sentence had been passed, and his father and cousin had already suffered,, before he was brought prisoner to the city. The commence- ment of a religious festival was the reason assigned at that time for sparing his life ; although his slender abilities and slothful habits are supposed to have been more powerful arguments in favour of the king's granting mercy than the supphcation of friends, or the intercession of the priests,. The Ancient Capital, Anurddhapoora. 221 io whom it was apparently conceded. Pilame Talawe was the last of the direct branch of that family which exercised the privilege of girding on the royal sword at the inaugura- tion of the Kandian monarchs. Besides eight large tanks at Anurddhapoora, there are several of a smaller size built round with hewn stooe ; and in the side of one of these a priest pointed out apartments, cells which, he said, had been occupied by priests as places for contemplation when religion flourished and the tanks were full : one of these cells, which we examined, proved to be formed of five slabs, and its dimensions were twelve feet in length, eight feet in breadth, and five feet in height; the lowest stone, or floor of the cell, must have been nearly on a level with the water in the tank. We also saw many wells built round with stone ; one very large one near the Euwanwelli-saye is circular, and the size diminishes with each course of masonry, so as to form steps for descending to the bottom in any direction. Near the footpath leading to the Jaitawanardmaya lies a vessel ornamented with pilasters cut in rehevo; it is formed out of a single granite stone, and is ten feet long, six feet wide, and two feet deep. It was used to contain food for the priests. The following is translated from an ancient native account of Anuradhapoora : — " The magnificent city of Amirddhapoora is refulgent from the numerous temples and palaces whose golden pinnacles glitter in the sky. The sides of its streets are strewed with black sand, and the middle is sprinkled with white sand ; they are spanned by arches * bearing flags of gold and silver ; on either side are vessels of the same precious metals, containing flowers ; and in niches are statues holding lamps of great value. In the streets are mtiltitudes of people armed with bows and arrows ; also men powerful as gods, -who with their huge swords could cut in sunder a tusk elephant at one blow. Elephants, horses, carts, and myriads of people are constantly passing and repassing : there are jugglers, dancers, and musicians of various nations, whose chanque- shells and other musical * Arches formed of areka-trees split and bent, or of some other pliable wood, were always used in decorating entrances and public buildings on days of ceremony or rejoicing ; but I haVe never seen an arch of masonry in any Cingalese building of great antiquity. 222 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. instruments are ornamented with gold. The distance from the principal gate to the south gate is four gaws (sixteen miles) ; and from the north gate to the south gate four gaws : the principal streets are Chandrawakka-widiya, * Eajamaha-widiya, f Hinguruwak-widiya, and Mahawelli- widiya. J In Chandrawakka-widiya are 11,000 houses, many of them being two storeys in height ; the smaller streets are innumerable. The palacie has immense ranges of building, some of two, others of three storeys in height; and its subterranean apartments are of great extent." With the exception of the four principal streets, the others were built of perishable materials, and were named fr'om the separate classes which inhabited them. The Chandalas (scavengers and corpse-bearers) resided beyond the limits of the city ; yet it was a girl of this caste that Prince Sali, only son of Dootoogaimoonoo, married, and chose rather to resign all chance of succession to the throne than to part from his beauteous bride. The detailed account of Prince Siili's romantic attachment to Asoka MaUa is probably less correct than a tradition preserved in Kotmalia, viz., that Soli's mother was not of the royal race, but a woman of the Goyawanza (cultivator class), with whom Dootoogaimoonoo formed a connection at the time he was a fugitive in the mountainous district of Kot- malia, to which place he had fled to avoid the effects of his father's anger, and by which act he acquired the epithet of Dootoo, or the Disobedient, prefixed to his own name of Gaimoonoo. Dootoogaimoonoo forgave his son, and ad- mired the bride ; but appointed his brother, Saida-tissa, as successor to the throne, that the Mahawanzae (great solar dynasty) might be preserved in all its purity. The great extent of Anurd,dhapoora, covering within its walls a space of 256 square miles, will not give any just grounds on which to estimate the extent of its population; as tanks, fields, and even forests are mentioned as being within its limits. The number and magnitude of the tanks and temples constructed by the Kings Dootoogaimoonoo, who reigned from b.c. 164 to b.c. 140, Walagam-bahoo, who reigned from b.c. 89 to b.c. 77, and Mahasen, who reigned from a.d. 275 to a.d. 802, are the best vouchers for the numerous popiilation whicli at these periods existed ■ ilooD Street. f Great King Street. *^ GrL^t Sandy Street, or from tlie lUver JIabawclli-gauga. The Ancient Capital, Amirddliapoorar 223^ in Ccylou ; j'et, as the tanks at least were formed by forced labour, we cannot rate the wealtli of the nation by the extent of its monuments. The public works of Prakrama- balioo the First, who reigned from a.d. 1153 to 1186, prove that even then Ceylon had a much more numerous popula- tion than it now possesses ; and Cingalese accounts of that period state the number of males, exclusive of chil- di-en, as amounting to 3,420,000. This number may be, and probably is, overrated ; but let those who doubt that an immense population formerly existed in Ceylon com- pare the prodigious bulk of the ancient monuments of Auur;!dliapoora, Miigam, and Polannarrua, with those erected by later kings of the island ; then let them com- pare singly the remains of the Kalaa tank," the Kaudela tank, ! or manj' others, with any or all the public works accomplished in Ceylon for the last 500 years. In con- structiu.u' the immense embankments of these artificial lakes, labour has been profusely, often, from want of science, uselessly expended ; as I believe many of these great tanks, which are now in ruins, would, if repaired, be found inapplicable to the purposes of irrigation for which they were designed : that is, the extent of plain which could be cultivated by means of these reservoirs would be of less value than the sums ^vhich it would be requisite to expend in repairing ;i 1 maintaining the embankments. In Anuriidhapoora, the only sacred buildings of modern date are a few small temples erected on the foundations and from the materials of former structures ; they are supported by wooden pillars, which, even in the same building, present a great variety of capitals, and perfect defiance of proportion. These mean temples, with their walls of clay and paltry supports, form a striking contrast to the granite columns, massive foundations, and stone rillars which still stand, or lie scattered in endless pro- in.sion amidst the ruined heaps and proud remains oi lormer ages. They serve to prove that Luddhisni only '■lings with loosening grasp where it once held bOvercigL av over mind and matter. In September, 1832, 1 again proceeded to Aum-idji" .oora. The Kalaa t .nil v>-as completed befoie \.i'. 177. ' The Kaiilela tank is now an extensive plain 1/ttweeu ytr i ndsly. ^24 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. "through Dambool, Manawewa, Kagamma, near which are tibe rains of the Nakha (finger-nail) ddgoba, and Tirapan. In several places, when we approached within twenty miles of the city, we perceived great heaps of stones on the road-side: they were intended to com- memorate events which are long since forgotten ; but, nevertheless, every pilgrim adds a stone to these nameless nsr its authenticity; but a miracle settled the dispute, • silenced sceptics. The sanctuary of this relic is a small chamber in ti; temple attached to the palace of the Eandian kings ; and there the six cases in which it is enshrined are placed on a silver table hung round with rich brocades. The largest or outside cover of these carandus (caskets) is five feet in height, formed of silver gilt, and shaped in the form of a dagoba : ''' the same form is preserved in the five inner cases, which are of gold ; two of them, moreover, being inlaid with rubies and other precious stones. The outer case is decorated with many gold ornaments and jewels, which have been offered to the relic, and serve to em- bellish its shrine. In front of the silver altar on which the tooth was exposed a plain table was placed ; to this the people approached one at a time, and having seen the Dalada and deposited their gifts, they prostrated them- selves, then passed on and made room for others. The * The bell-shaped buildings raised over the relies of Buddha. 228 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. offerings consisted of tilings the most heterogeneous: gold chains and gold ornaments : gold, silver, and copper coins of all denominations; cloths, priest's vestments, flowers, sugar, areka-nuts, betel-leaves. The Dalada was exhibited and the offerings continued for three duccessive days. On the second day some >retched spiscimens of the science of defence were exhibited before the Governor, both with fists and aldo with wooden swords and targets : on the fourth night there was a display of native fire- works, weU-made and skilfully managed. T^^ight and day, without intermission, during the continuance of this festival, there was kept up a continual din of tom-toms, and sounding of Kandian pipes and chanque-shells. The Eandian pipe is a musical instrument in poorer and melody neatly resembling a penny whistle: but the chanque is a shell with a mouth-piece attached, and, under the influebce of powerful lungs, is a most efBcient instrument for producing a noise which was called music ; its tones varying between the bellowings of a chained bull and the howling of a forsaken dog. *I presume the natives ponsider these sounds peculiarly adapted for their sacred music, as such instruments are to be found in all Iiftnples, and may be heard at all hours, to the dire annoy- ^hce of any European who attempts to sleep in their eighbourhood. The principal temporary building was 250 feet in length, i proportionate breadth, and supported by six lines of pillars. It was under this that the tooth was exhibited ; and the whole was ornamented with palm-branches, plantain-trees, fruit, and flowers : so gracefully were these disposed, that the columns in the variety of their decora- tions, and some even in unity of effect, presented combi- nations which, if transferred to stone, would rival any specimen of elaborate Corinthian architecture. In the brilhant pageantry of this festival, the rich altar and resplendent ornaments of the relic, the great ' size and elegant decorations of the temporary buildings, the pecu- liar and picturesque dresses of the chiefs, the majestic elephants, and dense mass of people, threw an air of imposing grandeur over the spectacle, to which the old temples, sacred trees, and the wild and* beautiful scenery around the Kandian capital formed an appropriate land- scape. These combinations were rendered still more Visit to Kandy. 229 impressive by the disturbed state of the elements ; for an extraordinary gloom and tempestuous weather continued during the whole time of the exhibition, and the torrents of rain which fell at that time caused the loss of many Uves, and destroyed much property, in various parts of the island. A * * * * - * The town of Eandy is judiciously planned, and the present regular arrangement of the streets was marked out by the Adikars under the direction of the king ; the streets all run in straight lines, but do not cross at right angles. It is situated on an angular piece of ground, with the base resting on two lakes which were formed by the late king. The buildings remaining from the time of the native dynasty are several temples of Buddha and two colleges, at one of which every Kandian priest ought to be ordained : there are also temples to the gods N4ta, Vishnu, Katragamma, and the goddess Fatine ; bat there is nothing worthy of remark either in their architecture or decorations. In the audience-hall, now used as a court-house, are some well-carved pillars of halmila wood : the trees f^^ which they were formed were cut and squared ne Nalande ; from thence they were dragged over a hill country, and up a steep laduntain, the whole distant^ being upwards of thirty miles. The other' remains o. the palace and buildings inhabited by the royal establish ment were, without exception, mean, and equally destitute of internal comfort and external beauty ; the most striking object is a low octagonal tower with a peaked roof, from a balcony in which the king exhibited himself on occa- sions of public festivity. Wikrama Baboo the Third, who reigned from a.d. 1371 to A. D. 1378, was the first monarch who settled himself even temporarily at Kandy, then called, from a large rock which projects from the hill above the old palace, Sen- gadda-gaUa-nuvara ; but it did not become the permanent capital of the interior until the reign of Wimala Dharma, which commenced a.d. 1592, and it continued the chief city until the native Government fell before the British power in 1815. The bariiil-ground of the Kandian kings cannot be viewed without exciting reflections on the revolutions 230 Ceylon in the JvbiUe Year. which alike oGcnr to "man's estate and the most ancient monarchies^ Ere the last of one of the longest lines of kings which authentic history records had so far expiated his crimes, and received his measure of earthly retribation for the cruelties he had inflicted, by suffering a long im- prisonment and an exile's death, the solid tombs of his predecessors were ransacked by the hands of avarice, or riven in sunder and ruined by liie swelling roots of saqped trees. This hallowed spot, where the funeral piles were raised, the last grand solemn rites performed, and the last of earthly pomp and splendour was shown to the remains " of the race of the sun " and the rulers of the land, is now a wilderness, where discay revels and rushes rapidly on beneath . dank vegetation and a' gloomy shade. The tomb of Baja Singha, the tyrant who reigned during Knox's captivity in the seventeenth century, was nearly perfect, and preserved its shape in May, 1828; that of Eirti Sri was then entire. In 1837 the former was a heap of rubbish, from which the stones hald been removed ; and the beautiful proportions, even the general form of the latter, could no longer be traced. Hopes of plunder cr .unmeaning iwantonness, at the time when Eandy was 'tfered by Uie British, precipitated the fate of these •numents : neglected as they now are, there is nothing atard it ; and a few years will show, mingled in one voluntary omission of any prescribed act at the appointed moment would render hun liable to misfortunes. The following is an abridgment, omitting the astrological lore, of one of the aainual documents, prepared for my benefit by the astrologer of Mdtale, who also took care to inform me of all eclipses, and to give me special instructions- in writing how to avoid those misfortunes which they might occasion. " The emblem of the approaching year will be a red lion seated erection a horse, and proceeding from tm aperture resembling the mouth of a horse ; this will be &t the commencement of the year, nine hours and fifty-four minutes after sunset : at this fortunate moment milk should be boiled at each of the four sides of the house." Next day I was directed to look to the north while dimbulJeaves were suspended over my head, and 23^ Ceylon in the Jubilee Yeat. with kolon-leaves placed under my feet; then, ha^g anointed myself with different juices and aromatic drags, I was to dress myself in perfumed clothes of red, white, and blue colours ; then to look to the south, and cause fire to be lighted and cooking to begin. On the second day, at two hours and a half 4fter sunrise, I was to commence eating victuals prepared with pounded salt and curdled milk. At twenty-seven hours,=''= while looking to the e^st, I was recommended to begin business by paying or receiving money. The whole concluded with a prediction, ;that, from the situation of the planets and other cogent reasons, I might expect both good and evil to happen during the year which' was about to commence. The second festival was held in the month of May, and was principally remarkable as being more essentially Buddhist' than any of the others^ During this festival such Samanairia priests as passed their examinations re- ceiVed.upasampada (ordination). The thii-d festival, called by pre- an extensive lake, or rather lagoon, on the other. . And as the sea in this quarter %)x>i]nds in fish, and this lagoon has many arms leading from its ample basin into canals stretching along the coast, and into rivers, flowing from the mountains, so as to form a great harbour, the surrounding country, which is very fertile, has become very populous. On the bank of land referred to, stands the thriving village of Morotto, re- markable for its fishermen and itR carj)enters. And here it was that the incident I am going to relate occurred. " But, first, let me tell you of the peculiar beauty and interest which the lake of Morotto possesses. It is itself averyiBue sheet of water; but the objects that surround it invent it with its peculiar beauty. Its bosom is every- where fringed by various species of mangroves, their every branch steadied by roots falling right down from them, and dipping into th<« water, beneath which they fix themselves in the soil. Immediately behind, there is a belt of beautifully verdant copse or jungle, luxuriantly entangled, or hanging in rich festoons around noble trees, adorned now and then with magnificent blossoms. Then come extensive topes of coco-palms everywhere that the population extends ; while beyond them, towards the in- terior, as far as the eye can reach, there is a forest — the trees, in their general appearance, not unlike those in a - jBuropean forest, but on a gi^nder scale. And all these^ vegetable riches, which adorn the spacious lake, Uke the sleeping waters of the lake itself, are seen regosing in a sunshine Which for more than half the year never knows any shadows but those of the evening and morning, which bring such ample . dews, along with them that there is a perpetual verdure all the year. Add to this, that the horizon-line on the inland side is bounded by a lofty range of mountains, among which Adam's Peak rears its majestic sununit, and it will be seen that the entire scenery is of dream-like beauty. The delight, however, with which the eye gazes is soon lost for feeliugsof quite another kind, when, ceasing to commtuaTe with Nature, we look to those monuments upon the banks of the lake, which claim man for their author. These remind us that, all-beautifnl though nature be in this region, when viewed Progress of Mission Work in Ceylon. 247 in herself, yet, viewed in reference to nmn, these are bnt dark places of tiie earth, full of the habitations of cruelty. There is one feature in nature, indeed, which seems to in^te to the shores of this lake of Morotto as a fit place for the nurture of the darker Buperstitiona For irp its waters, on some lonely and almost inaccessible islands, covered with lofty and seemingly leafless trees, there are seen hanging in the top branches, in ponderous masses, certain large, motionless objects, which remain black and without lustre in the brightest sunshine. They are many hundreds in number. Point to th6m, and ask the boat- men what they are, yon 1^1 soon hear on the lips of every native in the boat the unearthly sound of ' woulM ! wouUd t ' But what are they ? Devote a long hour to the oar, in order to get nearer, and say that you are beneath them : they have left the trees, the air over your head is black with them — black with vampires or flying foxes, bats as large as eagles, iii many hundreds, flapping their wings most sluggishly, and in most' fitful silence, till one after another they have vanished from the air, and are only seen in distant trees, hanging again by their feet till nightfall Whether it was the contrast between these, unearthly creatures and all nature,^around, I know not ; but I have never seen anything so like what one would fancy round the very mouth of hell, as these clouds of woull^s. " Let us turn our back upon, them, then, and look down the beautiful sunny lake towards Morotto and the sea, whose distant roar is quite refreshing after the solemn silence of the forest, and the flights of the monster bats. Th6 return to the place from which we set out will not be less agreeable for this, that the delicious sea-breeze will meet us in the face. But what is that dome, with its gilded pinnacle glittering in the sunbeams, on the top of the hill, surrounded by lofty bo-trees ? It is a Bucmhist tem^, with its accompanying dagoba and pansala, where learned priests are thronging, each ordained by a chapter (HTgani^ed with profound policy, and venerating tegitimacy of succeasion as much as any ecclesiastics in Borne — priests^ bat with this reservation, that man is the only god tihey acknowledge ; while for man, alas ! notwith- stand^g his possible godhead, when this life is over, they ^oW BO heaven better than annihilation 1 The common 248 Ceylon in the Jvlilee Year. people do perhaps worship Bnddha, as if he were a real being, great and powerful, and consciously existing some- where. £at the sacred books adore his memory only ; and the priesthood proclaim no god to the people but them- selves. This is bad enough. Yes; what can be worse than atheism ? And yet, let us hear what the boatman says of that headland on the other side of the lake, bo remarkable for its hoary trees and dense impenetrable jungle. There is a treasure hidden there, he says. Then why not go and dig it up ? • Ah 1 it is guarded by a demon,' he answers ; and reminds us of a custom practised in Ceylon, I am told, at no very remote period, the very thought of which makes the blood run cold. It was this : The owner of a treasure, when he apprehended from any cause that it was not safe at home, having selected some lonely spot in the jungle, dug two holes there, close beside each other ; the one large enough to hold his treasure, the other much larger. He then returned to his home, and, having taken a large -knife, and concealed it in his dress, called a trusty servant, showed him the bag of money, and required him to bear it along with him into the jungle. The faithful servant obeys ; and when they have arrived at the secret spot, the treasure is deposited in its hole, and committed to the keeping of the servant, on which his throat is cut, and the body buried ! And thereafter, he who receives this reward for his fidelity is believed to be a demon, and the treasure is safe in the keeping of the yakka ! Such is a sample of those atrocities to which demon-worship prompts. Barba.rities like these were indeed practised only in other times ; but still, demon- worship forms the only positive religion of the heathen in Buddhistic countries. It prevails to a vast extent, not only in Ceylon, but in all Southern India ; and this is truly lamentable, both in- a religious point of view, and because it is so gloomy, unsocial, and inhuman. It is to a priest of this religion that the incident relates, to which we now proceed. " He was an old man, and the temple where he minis- tei-ed was his own. It presented its dismal front in a shady grove, almost fifty yards otf a much-frequented by- road, which led from the highway to a populous village on the banks of the lake. And there had the old demou- priest remained for many a long year by his idols. And Progress of Mission Work in Ceylon, 249 many orgies had he celebrated in every hamlet aronnd, wherever there was any one sick who could afford to pay, or anything secret which was wanted to be known, or, haply, a new-married woman anions about her first child, or a mother to whom child-birth was known to be a dangerous moment. Nay, I have been credibly informed of the daughters of Ghnstian parents, who have stolen away to consult the kapur^la. Such is the hold which demon-worship has upon the human mind. Is this much- frequented road, then, in one of the loveHest bypaths of the world, to be left with no retreat for the piously- disposed, but a demon-temple with its priest ? No ; the Wesleyan Missionary Society — ^that noble institution for the evangelization of the heathen, which secures the very best ministers of that communion for missionaries — has long had a station in Morotto ; and it was resolved that a mission chapel should be erected opposite the demon- temple, on the other side of the road ; each erection, how- ever, out of the sight of the other. The chapel was accordingly built ; and at the time to which this narrative refers, the missionary who ministered in it was a pure Sinhalese, Peter de Zylva by name, a man of great kind- ness of heart and energy of character. Mr. de Zylva's domiciliary visits were reaching every house and hamlet in Morotto, and his voice was ringing with the mysteries of redemption, musically, yet powerfully, from the desk in the Morotto chapel, Sabbath-day and week-day, while the passengers were arrested more and more, until his little flock became a large one, and the communicants numbered nearly a hundred. " But how was it going with the old priest in his old demon-temple over the way ? Was he plotting mischief and plying a bad tongue against the missionary who was thus turning the people from his temple into another, where his own religion was denounced as most sinful and unholy, and the Cross of Christ proclaimed as the power of God unto salvation xmto every one that believeth ? This was nothing less than might have been expected from human nature under the circumstances. But not so here. WhUe the people who used to frequent his temple were turning the opposite way, the old priest, sitting inside, listened day after day to the hymns and the prayers and the preaching of the Christian congregation and tlie Chiis- 250 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. tian minister. This, happily, he could do with good effect in the silence /which reigned around him, so near were both places of worship to each other ; and such is the power of the Spirit of God, when an earnest Christian minister is His instrument, that, despite the hebetude of old age and the habits of a lifetime, despite the power of an hereditary faith and every suggestion of egotism, the old man felt that he could not help believing, and that he must go and unfold his mind to Peter de Zylva. He did so accordingly. And in answer to the always respectful and friendly question of the missionary — what brought him there ? — he told him what had befallen his heart through listening to the preaching of the gospel ; that he had done with bis idols, and locked up his temple. ' And here is tlie key,' sa^d he, ' which you must take, for the temple is my own ; and I can do with it as I please. For me, henceforth, there remains nothing but to humble myself in penitence, and to believe in Christ' ' A kapurala ! ' said Peter de Zjlva, suspicious of his countryman ; ' what can I do with yourself and your key ? Yon must not throw yourself on us. We are poor people : we can do nothing for you that way.' 'Do not think so unworthily of me,' said the old man ; ' I shall need but little, and that little not long.' ' And then as to this key,' rejoined Peter, ' suppose I take it, do you know what I shall do this very day ? ' ' No,' said the old man, '. nor do I care, if but the teinple pass from my hands into yours.' ' Very well,' said the missionary, 'you see this stick of mine — (Peter usually walks with a heavy staff) — I tell you, I wiU take and smash every idol in your temple, this very day, and leave you nothing before night but chips and rubbish on the floor.' 'Do it,' said the old man: 'better you than I.' And it was done. Before acknowledging him as a Chris- tian brother, the earnest but cautious missionary tried him on every point where a mistake or a cheat, on the part of the old man, seemed possible. But there was no mistake, no deceit. The conversion of the old demon- priest was one of those soul-delighting demonstrations of the power of the Spirit, where the best-defended strong- holds of fallen nature are made to surrender uncondi- tionally to the truth as it is in -Jesus." APPENDIX IV. CASTE IN CEYLON. Caste, though disavowed by Buddhism, has still some hold on the Sinhalese, and, as a matter of civil distinction, intermarriages of persons of different castes are almost unknown, except amongst the lowest of the population. The Tamils have all the Hindu castes, as essentials of their religion, from the Brahman downwards to the Koviya and Pariah. There are no Brahmans amongst the Sinha- lese, and the Chaliyas (cinnamon peelers) strongly dispute the pre-eminence of the Yellalas pr husbandmen. The fishermen are another great ca^te, and, curiously enough, they are the best and most enterprizing carpenters ; then follow numerous divisions on to the dhoby (washermen) and jaggery castes, the members of which are employed to collect the juice &om the flower sheaths of palms, to be fermented into " toddy " and yeast, distilled into arrack, or inspissated into coarse sugar called jaggery. Under the Kandyan dynasty, caste was strictly enforced — the son of a barber being inevitably and for Hfe a barber. There is now no legal restriction, nor any social disability, save what the natives voluntarily choose to retain or submit to, and the anomaly of State-supported churches of Christians in -Ceylon has also been removed, but officials, in some cases, foolishly encourage caste pretensions. The worse than waste of the temporahties (land, &c.) attached to Buddhist temples has, however, yet to be dealt with by ' Government. [See in further illustration, the information in a later appendix, received as the sheets were passing through press.] APPENDIX V. 1.— A LIST OP THE BRITISH GOVEEXORS OF CEYLON.* 1. Hon. Fkederick North (subsequently Earl of Guil- , ford), 12th October, 1798. 2. Lieut. -General the Right Hon. Sir Thomas Maitland, G.C.B., 19th July, 1805. Major-General John Wilson, Lieut. -Governor, 19th March, 1811. 3. General Sir Robebt Brownkigq, Bart., G.C.B., lltli March, 1812. Major-General Sir Edward Barnes, K.C.B., Lieut. -Governor, 1st February, 1820. 4. Lieut. -General the Hon. Sir Edward Paget, K.C.B., 2nd February, 1822. Major-General Sir James Campbell, K.C.B., Lieut. -Governor, 6th November, 1822. 5. Lieut. -General Sir Edward Barnes, K.C.B. , 18th January, 1824. Major-General Sir John Wilson, K.C.B., Lieut- Go vernor, 13th October, 1831. G. The Right Hon. Sir Robert Wilmot Horton, Bart., G.C.B., 23rd October, 1831. 7. Tho Eight Hon. James Alexander Stewart Mackenzie, 7th November, 1837. 8. Lieut. -General Sir Colin Campbell, K.C.B., 5th April, 1841. Sir James Emerson Texnent, K.C.S., Lieut.- Governor, 19th April, 1847. • From IGth Febrnary, 179G, to 12th October, 1798, the colony was attached to the JIaJras PresiJency. Bntish Governors of Ceylon. 255) 9. The Right Hon. the Viscount Torrinoton, 29th May, 1847. The Hon. Charles Justin MacCarthy, Lieot- Governor, 18th October, 1850. 10. Sir George William Anderson, K.C.B., 27th Novem- ber, 1850. The Hon. Cbarles Justin MacCarthy, Lieut.- Governor, tSlili January^l855. 11. Sir Henry George Ward, G.C.'M.G., 11th May, 1855. Major-Geueral Henry Frederick Lockyer, C.B., K.H., Lieut.-Governor, 30th June, 1860. Colonel Charles Edmund Wilkinson, E.E., Lieut.-Governor, 80th July, 1860. 12. Sir Charles Justin MacCarthy, Kt., 22ud October, 1860. Miijor-General Terknce O'Bkien, Officer Ad- ministering the Government, 1st December, 1803. 13. Sir Hkrcules George Eobert Robinson, Kt., Lieut.- Governor, 81st March ; Governor, 16th May, 1865. Lieut.-General Studholme John Hodgson, Officer Administering the Government, 2nd July, 1808, to 12th June, 1869, during Sir H. Robinson's leave of absence. The Hon. Henry Turner Irving, Officer Ad- ministering the Government, 4th January, 1872. 14. The Right Hon. Willi*.m Henry Gregory (Sir W. H. Gregory, K.C.M.G., 1875), 4th March, 1872. The Hon. Arthur Norki^ Birch (C.M.G., 1875), Administrator of the Government, 17th April to 14th August, 1874, and 20th December, 1875, to 29th January, 1876; Lieut.-Governor, loth January to 10th April, 1877 (during Sir W. H. Gregory's absences from the colony) ; Lieut.-Governor, 9th May to 8rd September, 1877. 15. Sir James Robert Longden. KC.M.G. (G.C.M.G., 1883), 4th September, 1877. The Hon. John Douglas, C.M.G., Lieut.-Gover- nor, 28th February to 16th September, 1881 (during Sir J. E. Longden's absence). Sir John Douglas, K.C.M.G., Lieut.-Governor, 14th July, 1883. 2^54 Ceyloii in the Jubilee Year. 16. The Hon. Sir Arthur Gordon, G.C.M.G., gazetted , Governor, August, 1883 ; assumed the Admmistra- ( tion on December Srd of that year. Major-General Sir John Chetham Mcleod, K.C.B., Administered the Government during Sir A. Gordon's absence, June to November, 1885. 2.— CHIEF JUSTICES OF CEYLON. Sir Edward Codrington Carrington, 1802. The Hon. Alexander Johnston (provisioual), 1806. Right Hon. E. C. Lushington (provisional), 1807. W. Coke, Esq. (provisional), 1809. Sir Alexander Johnston (Chief Justice and President of the Council), 6th November, 1811. Sir Hardinge Giffard. Kt., L|L.D., 1820. Sir Richard Ottley, Kt., 1827. Sir Charles Marshall, Et., 1883. Sir William Norris, Kt., April. 1836. Sergeant Sir W. Rough, Kt., April, 1837 Sh- Anthony Oliphant, Kt., 1838. Sk William Ogle Carr, Kt., 1854. Sir W. Carpenter Rowe, Kt., 1856. The Hon. P. I. Sterling (acting), 1859. Sir Edward Creasy, Kt., 1860. Sir R. F. Morgan, Kt. (acting), 1875. The Hon. C. H. Stewart (acting), 1875. Sir George Anderson, Kt. (acting), 1876. Sir WilUam Halckett, Kt., 1877. Sir John Budd Phear, Kt., 1877. Sir Richard Cayley, Kt., 1879. Hon. L. B. Clarence (acting), 1882. Hon. J. P. de Wet, Kt.,,and Sir George Anderson (acting), 1882-3. The Hon. Sir Bruce Lockhart Barnside, 1883 (knighted in 1884). Hou-.-F. Fleming (actiiig\ 1885, during Sir Bruce Buin- liiuc's, abbcuce. British Major-GeneraU in Ceylon. 255 3.— BEITISH MAJOR-GENERALS COMMANDING THE TROOPS IN CEYLON. (PrevionsI; to 1819 the Odvemois were not only o£BciaUy but actiTely comtnanders of the troops.) Sir Edward Barnes, KC.B., 1819. — Afterwards .Ceylon's great GoverBor,, a remarkable man. He became Governor in 1824, and held the post until 1831. It wad his mind that planned and executed the Eandy Road, and other main lines throughout the island. He likewise erected the Pavilion at Kandy ; Barnes Hall, Nuwara EUiya; and Mount Lavinia House. A bronze statue in honour of him as Governor stands opposite the Queen's House, Colombo. Sir James Campbell, K.C.B., 1822. Sir Hudson Lowe, 1826. — Previously (1815-1821) Governor of St. Helena, and Custodian of Napoleon Bonaparte. Sir John Wilson, K.C.B., 1831. Sir E. Arbuthnot, K.C.B., 1888. Wilham Smelt, C.B., 1847.— The so-called Kandyan re- bellion of 1848 occurred during Major-General Smelt's command, and there was an angry correspondence between Lord Torrington, Major-General Smelt, and General F. Braybrooke, relative to the officers of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment. T.Eeed, C.B., 1852. P. Bainbrigge, C.B., 1854. Henry F. Lockyer, C.B., K.H., 1857. — Major-General Lockyer, who had been Lieutenaiit-Governor after Sir H. "Ward was transferred to Madras, left the island in iU-health, and died on board the S.S. Ripon, 16th October, 1861. Terence O'Biien, 1860. — In the time of Major-General O'Brien, his son, Major O'Brien, was tried by court- martial for a letter ' published in the MofussUite, reflecting on the civil authorities in Ceylon. The Major-General did not confirm the sentence, and the Horse Guards removed the censure of the local court. Studholme John Hodgson,^ 1865. — It was during Major- General Hodgson's time that a commission was ap- 256 Ceylon in the JuUlde Year. pointed to inquire into the military expenditure of Ce.ylon. There were food riots in Colombo, and the military were asked to assist the civil authorities in quelling th«m. Henry Eenny, C.S.I., 1869. John Alfred Street, C.B.. 1874. William Wilby. C.B., 1879. Sir John C. McLeod, K.C.B., 1882. Sir Wilbraham Leuuox, V.C., R.E., K.C.B., 1887. Some of the Governors, such as General Brownrigg (1815) and Lientenant-General Sir Colin Campbell (1841), held the two oflSces of Governor and Commander of the Forces. Major-Generals Sir John Wilson, Lockyer, O'Brien, Hodgson, and McLeod, acted respectively as Lieutenant-Governor, &o., during the absence or other- wise of the Governor from the island. 4. EXECUTIVE COUNCILLORS OF CEYLON. Colonial Secretaries. — Hugh Cleghorn, 1799. R. Arbuthnot, 1803. Honourable J. Rodney, 1815. P. Anstruther ("the one-armed Rajah''), 1834. Sir J. Emerson Tennent, K.C.S., 1846. Charles Justin McCarthy, 1850. W. Chas. Gibson, 1861. H. T. Irving, 1869. Arthur N. Birch, C.M.G., 1873. John Douglas, C.M.G., 1878. C. C. Smith, 1885. Col. Walker, 1887. Qtieen's Advocates. — William Coke, 1809. H. Giffard, LL.D., 1811. Henry Matthews, 1817. W. Norris, 1832. W. 0. Carr, 1834. James Stark, 1841. Arthur Buller, 1842.. H. C. Selby, 1848. H. B. Thomson, 1859. Sir E. F. Morgan, 1863. Richard Cayley, 1876. B. L. Burnside, 1880. C. L. Ferdi- nands (acting), 1882. Francis Fleming (Attorney- General), 1883. Samuel Grenier, 1887. Auditors-General. — A. Bertolacci, 1809. John D'Oyly, 1815. E. Tolfrey, 1816. J. W. Carrington, 1817. H. A. Marshal, 1824. H, Wright, 1842. C. J. MacCarthy, 1848. W. C. Gibson, 1850. R. T. Pennefather, 1862. Robert John Callaijder, 1866. John Douglas, 1870. W. C. Barclay, 1876. W. H. Ravenscroft, 1877. Treasure;*.— Robert Boyd, 1809. J. W. Carrington, 1812. A Few PMic Benefactors in British Times. 257 Thomas Eden, 1816. John Drave, 1822. W. Gran- ville, 1823. J. W. Carrington, 1824. F. J: Templer, 1843. J. Caulfeild, 1854. F. Saunders, 1861. G. Vane, C.M.G., 1865. W. D. Wright, 1882. G. T. M, O'Brien, 1886. Solicitor-General (the first). — C. L. Ferdinands, Esq. 5.— A FEW PUBLIC (NON-OFFICIAL) BENEFAC- TORS IN BRITISH TIMES. Geo. Bird, the late, who opened the first regular coffee plantation. Robert Boyd Tytler, the late, who introduced the im- proved West Indian system of coffee planting, and also was the first to cultivate cocoa (cacao) in Ceylon. David Wilson, the late, for his improvements in the pre- paration of coco- nut oil and coir manufactures ; and the Messrs. Leechman, who succeeded him in Hults- dorf Mills. Gabriel and Maurice Worms, the late, as pioneers who vested a large amount of capital in coffee and tea cultivation. Christopher Elliott, M.D., the late, for his philanthropic labours among Burghers and Natives, and his inde- pendent attitude as a Journalist; also as the first head of the Civil Medical Department of the colony, and the projector of Hospitals, Colleges, &c. A. M. Ferguson, C.M.G., M.R.A.S., for his labours in urging cultivation of new products, especially cinchona and tea ; also as Journalist {Ceylon Observer) and Pub- lisher (in conjunction with J. Ferguson) of Tropical A(/iicuUurist, Manuals for Tropical Planters, Ceylon Handbooks and Directories, &c. Resident fifty years. C. A. LoREisz, Barrister, the late, for disuiterested wofk as Legislator and Publicist, more especially in aiding the advance of his own people, the I3urghers. John Capper, M.R.A.S. (Ceylon branch;. Merchant and Journalist in Ceylon for over forty years. Author of several works on, or on subjects connected with, the colony. The De Sovza Family (especially C. H. De Soyza, Esq., J.P.I and Mudaliyar Sampsox Eajapakse, for onter- 18 258 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. prise in developing planting industry, constructing roads, endowing hospitals and schools, and nunierous other public benefactions. G. A. Cbuwell, the late, as a Pioneer Planter who visited and reported, in Ceylon Observer, on Java, Southern and Northern India, West Coast of Africa (Liberia), BrazU, and Central America, for the benefit of his fellow planters in Ceylon ; doing much to intrcf- dnce the Liberian species of coffee and India-rubber trees. James Alwis, the late, as Legislator and Author, in writing on the literature and history of his own people, the Sinhalese. Sir M. CoMABA SwAMT, Kt., the late, as Legislator and Author on subjects connected with his own people, the Tamils. Hon. James Van Langenbkrg, M.L.C, Advocate, the late, for valuable work as legislator and lawyer. George Wall, Planter and Merchant, some time Member of the Legislative Council, and Chairman of the Chamber of Commerce, and at present Chairman of the Planters' Association. Has, since his arrival in 1846, taken a leading part in discussing public affairs. Founded a Ceylon League to secure a reform of the Legislative CounciL Eev. Levi Spaulding, D.D. (" Father Spanlding "), the late, of the American Mission. He laboured uninterruptedly for over fifty years in the north of the island among the Tamils, educating and Christianizing a large number, aided by earnest, disinterested brethren and sisters, among whom Miss Agnew (who also never took furlough) died on the Mission-field after well-nigh fifty years' service. Also Dr. Gkeen, Medical Missionary of the sam*e Mission, who translated and compiled standard, medical works for his Tamil students ; the same students proving of the greatest value to the Government and the people before a Colombo Medical College was estab- lished by Government, and Ceylon students were trained there. The Eev. John Eilneb, of the Wesleyan Mission, de- serves to be remembered among the Jaf&ia Tamils, among whom he laboured. A Few Public Benefactors in British Times. 259 Sir Samuel Bakek, for his experiments (agricultural, &c.) at Nuwara Eliya, extending over seven years, and his two booiis on the island : " Seven Years in Ceylon," and " The Eifle and the Hound in Ceylon." Keginald John Corbet, the late, a leading Ceylon Planter of many years' standing, a Pioneer in Cinchona cul- tivation, ex-Member of the Legislative Council, and Chairman of the Planters' Association. John Nietnee, the late, Prussian-born, naturalized British subject, for his contributions to Natural History, es- pecially " Entomology," and his little work, " Enemies of the Coffee-tree in Ceylon." "W. W. Mitchell, Esq., H. Bois, Esq., and J. J. Gkinlin- TON, Esq., C.E., P.E.G.S., for their active zeal in the public interests in a variety of ways. G. H. D. Elphinstone, Coffee Planter and Pioneer in the Dimbula District from 1868 onward, as well as Pioneer with Tea cultivation in several districts of the island; a most industrious, persevering colonist, under many difficulties ; now Sir Graeme H. D. Elphinstone, Bart. John Ferguson, M.E.A.S., Corresponding Secretary for Ceylon of the Eoyal Colonial Institute, Journalist and Author, for twenty-seven years a colonist ; ori- ginated (in conjunction with the late E. V. Dunlop) Mission Extension to the Sabaragamuwa,Hambantota, and Uva districts,; started agitation for railway exten- sion beyond Nawalapitya to Uva. Among a large body of Christian missionaries, authors, and true philanthropists, mention should be made of Clough, Lambeick, Harvard, Daniel, Gogerly, Spence Hardy, Oakley, Carter, Scott, Ireland Jones, and Coles. Among officiah whose names are not included in the lists given above, but whose special services to Ceylon deserve notice, are — ■ Anthony Beetolacci, who wrote a valuable work on the trade and revenue in Ceylon early in the century. Major FoEBES, late of 78tli Eegiment, for his interesting work " Eleven Years in Ceylon." J. W. Bennett, F.L.S., for his work " Ceylon and its Cnpa- 260 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. bilities," and his contributions to the study of the Natural History of the Island. Capt. James Stewart, Master Attendant of Colombo, for his investigation of the pearl fishery, and useful notes and papers on this and other practical subjects connected with the revenue and progress of the island. Percpval Acland Dyke, for the long period of forty years Government Agent of the Northern Province of Ceylon, to the development of which, and the welfare of the people, he gave the service of his life. Sir Chas. Peteh Layard, K.C.M.G., for a nearly equal period Government Agent of the Western Province, where he was in useful " labours more abundant." Major Skinner, C.M.G., the great roadmaker of Ceylon, who began his work under Sir Edward Barnes, and closed his most useful career forty years later, under Sir Hercules Eobinson. Sir E. F. Morgan, Kt., included among the Chief Justices, did notable service to the Colony as its lawmaker for many years. Guilford Lindsay Molesworth, C.I.E., as the successful Engineer of the Colombo and Kandy Kailway, the discoverer of a route which had been overlooked by several predecessors. Sir Ch.u'.i.es Hutton Gregory, K.C.M.G., as Consulting Engineer for many years in connection with the devcli ipment of its system of railways. Sir John Coode, K.G., as Consulting Engineer, and Mr. John I- .le as Resident Engineer, for the Colombo Breakwater and Harbour Works, which have proved so successful. G. H. K. Thv'aites, F.E.S., Ph.D., for many years Direc- tor of the Eoyal Botanic Garden, and the compiler of the "Enumeratio Plantarum Zeylanise." W. Ferguson, F.L.S., author of a " Monograph on the Palmyra Palm," pamphlets on " Ceylon Timber Trees," " Ferns," " Snakes," &c., and for his contri- butions to the Natural History of the island. TTrN'i'.y Trimen, M.B., F.L.S., the gifted successor to Dr. Tliwaitcs, who, as botanist and practical observer, liJis !ih-eiifly laid the Colony under special obligations. ilou. Glokge Turnour, loj- his translation of the " Maha- A Few Public Benefactors in British Times. 261 wanso " and other invalaable work connected with the ancient history of Ceylon. Loms ZoTZA, Mudliyar, Chief Translator to Government, for his nsefol work as an Orientalist. SuiON Casi Chitty, Mudliyar, for his " Ceylon Ga2etteer," and nnmerous other writings. Dr. Barcboft Boake, Principal of the Eoyal College, Colombo, and for many years Hon. Secretary Friend- in-Need Society, and for his literary and Natural History writings. Hon. P. D. Anthonisz, M.D.,M.L.C.,as a Ceyloneee surgeon who has risen to the highest eminence in his profes- sion, and in the esteem of his countrymen- by his good works, " The Anthonisz Memorial " (Hospital Wards), and his nomination to the Legislative Council afford- ing evidence. C. L. FEBDixASDs.Esq., Solicitor-General, as the imofficial leader of the Burghers after Mr. Lorenz's death, and in ofGce as Legislator and Criminal Prosecutor, re- spected for his conscientious, honourable, zealous pursuit of duty. Mr. Ferdinands incurred the dis- pleasure of Governor Gordon for no fault of his own, and was passed over in 1886 for the Attorney-General- ship in favour of his friend Mr. Grenier, much to the regret of those who kn«w best his long and useful labours, and his high sense of duty. The name of Sir J. Emebson Tbnnent finds a place in the list of Lieut.-Govemors and Colonial Secretaries, but it deserves special mention as that of the author of the most valuable and complete work published on Ceylon up to his day, 1857-61. APPENDIX VI. PEINCIPAL EESULTS OF THE CENSUS TAKEN ON 17th FEBRUAIL7, 1881.* iCompUedfrom the SegUtrar-Oenerars (Jtfr.' L. F, Lee'9) S^ort and Statements.'} AEEA— POPULATION. GENERAL STATEMENT 0;F THE AREA AND POPULATION (Exclnsive of the Militar; and the Shipping). CEYLON Western Province North-Western Province. Central Province North-Central Province . Northern Province Eastern Province Southern Province Western Province. Colombo, Municipality of Colombo District (exclusive of thi Municipality) Negombo District Kegalla District Ratnapurft District Kalutara District , North-Western Province. Eurunegala Dwitrict Puttalam District Central Province. Kandy District , Matale District .-. . Badnlla District Nuwara Eliya District North-Central Province. Nuwarakalawiya District (including Tamftnitaduwa) Northern Province. .Taffna District . , Maimar District Mullaittivu District Vavuniyaii-Vilantulam District . . Eastern Provincr, Batticaloa District Trincomalee District Southern Province. Galle District Matara District Hambantota District Area in square 3,456 . 3,024 6,029 4,047 8,171 3,657 i,yso 532 248 651 1,434 581 1,840 1,184 004 982 3,790 353 4,047 875 432 927 937 2,595 1,062 637 548 895 2,759,738 897,329 293,327 639,361 66,146 302.500 127,555 433,520 110,502 279,286 116,691 119,955 105,874 165,021 215,173 78,154 Males. 66,146 265,583 21,348 7,638 7,931 106,358 22,197 Females. No. of persous per square uiiie. 1,469,553- 475,397 158,026 361,523 35,580 151,565 66,577 I 220,885 62,225 143,775 61,360 64,698 59,380 83,969 114,989 43,037 162,277 86,655 48,470 165,692 92,627 98,682 58,149 35,580 131,483 11,320 4,213 4,549 54,598 11,979 209,680 105,808 151,923 77,516 71,917 37,561 1,^0,185 421,932 135,301 277,838 30,566 150,935 60,978 212,635 48,277 135,511 55,3al 55,257 46,494 81,062 100,184 35,117 126,055 38,185 73,005 40,533 30,566 134,100 10,028 3,425 3,382 50,760 10,218 103,872 74,407 34,356 109 260 97 106 16 95 35 219 11,693 525 471 184 74 284 117 66 319 88 44 279 16 304 49 8 8 41 21 890 277 80 * 6ni pfet cint. per annum can be added to the resnlts to bring the figures up to date - Author. t Exclusive of the area of the Colombo L.ake. NATIONALITIES. 268 ^8B|1IIII9^ *ti0[VK *sizoei8j § n o ■< P O Pi O »H P n *89[Vai9J ■Bspimaj s EH /snosiaj ■-S,Oai-4 CO lo « ■* 1"! 00 la ^W ACp) OPQ o C?> 03 A Q^'^ V t> O t- ob MS i-( -^ ^ OS m'o'od « t- ■ 00 fe: eO i-H t- ^ jH CJ ■* Q rH -tH t- 0» _eo to eo to o» iO r4" CO CD u>u O (71 - rHr S A OQ i-l 10-9 50 00»0">if^ © fl*^ a r4" ■©) SCOiHi-ICO „?2 CD acoi-iua t- CD -* .H t- 0>fi3 Qwoaeo»oc CO-* lO C t-t*-cot-(Ma DcOCMi-l OOSC E-Hsassjsss •| SI'S lis « s a s K 2 e 264 RELIGIONS— OCCUPATIONS. j "SSI . ja i g ' • !■ g : H 1 1 «sgs- .|S i o ■1 ^^ s 1 £ I s '^"'SSSS s § S S 1 g-^" "cT S ?5 p; ^ o n tj * * a ' * ^* O ri ^ £ i li 1! 1 t^ a "3 1 Em sgi .-is ■ r ■ 00 i 2^ ft ■" o ? 'H ^ « ■1 * OS3D S t ^ £ o £ ii S OQ 3 1 s" tn jl Q u > glll^s-^l i H a oooggj s H O 5 te o U n H C 1 3 1 u I d II » = 2 ? 1 hlillii KSj:=M3rt;^c ■S9[iiaiaj r* I r4 eO QD -^l fH to CD I t-toO'HCDffiaD to j iH rH icoq 'sapaozdj i oi •saiBjc » 'Sdivma^ c- oo cj la t- lo C4 as^c-- CD 1-1 so ■* o ■^ iCDXQoasSnua ' Ico ' naocoooae^si f-a ■ ooot-i.-i'fl'o •ssinnr "2. 1 't.<=l=l'l =!'=.» ^\°K ^T ' o o r» VTo Gs ao t- laC-ODt-teOrH — 1*0 1 ^ ^ g *sai«uia^ ' f-l .-i Q ■«« 3C O 33 ! -sapsora J ! o CO -«• XM^O&C c- cs »-< f ft c- a eo SI O oc S ■*.'■ C- i-l rH C- 00 a ^■3 ei -^r i-t « ■* OS » 'B8[Vai9J ^ t- « « ►■ •S3l«W 'B9pniI9^ 0)00 00 U3 OlO" -- jaSSi- g?^o Sag ' . H t; s f 265 ESTATE POPULATION; CHIEFLY TAMIL COOLIE IMMIGRANTS. STATEMENT SHOWING THE DISTBIBTTTION OF THE ESTATE POPULA- TION, WJXH THE NUMBEB , OP ESTATES IN BACH KKVENCE DISTRICT. Cetlon Wkstebn Pbotincb. Colombo District Negombo District Eegalla District Batnapura District Ealatara District Nobth-Westebn Pbovince, Karanegala District Fattalam District Centbal Fbotince. Eandy District Matale District Badalla District Nawara Eliya District . . . . NOBTHEBN PbOTINCE. Jaffna District Eastebn Pbovince. Batticaloa District Trincomalee District SoDiHEBN Pbovince. Galle District Matara District No. of EsUtea. 1,758 25 52 44 102 15 27 17 671 141 271 325 32 17 11 Population. PetBona. 206,495 1,074 1,886 3,268 6,925 1,002 2,539 796 75,229 18,182 37,242 66,225 528 78 277 595 649 Males. Females. 124,692 695 1,372 2,051 4,248 655 1,527 531 44;951 10,9^5 22,3 lO 33,954 332 62 208 4U 397 81,803 379 514 1,217 2,67r 347 1,012 265 30,278 7,197 14,932 2a,271 196 16 69 181 252 266 OCCUPATIONS. STATEMENT OF THE PRINCIPAL OCCUPATIONS OF THE POPULATION OF CEYLON. PaiNCIFAI. OCCUJ'ATIONS. Population of Ceylon according to Nationality I. — Propessionaij Class. In employ of (Jeneral or Local Government Missionary, Clergyman, Minister Church, Chax)6l — Service Buddhist Prleat Vlhara Service ' Hindu Prie'^t ^ Temple Service '. . Mohammedan Priest Mosque Service Barrister, Advocate, Proctor Law Student Petition, Pleading — Drawer Notary Fablio Physician, Surgeon, Medical Practitioner Medical Student Midwife Chemist, Druggist Music Teacher, Musician Drummer Tom-tom Beater Actor, Comedian, Dancer, Nautch Girl '.. Snake Charmer Devil Dancer .-. .' Inspector of ^ehools. Schoolmaster, Teacher, SchoohnistresB \... Astrologer n.— Domestic Class. Hotel — Manager, Keeper; Boarding-bouse, Rest- ho'ise, Eating-house Keeper Domestic Servant (General) Groom {Horsekecper) Wash-house Service , Barber m.— Commercial Class. Merchant ' Commission Agent, Broker Accountant, Book-keeper ^. Clerk (so returned) Shopkeeper (branch undefined) Boutique-keeper All Races. 12,948 422 110 6,279 1,193 1.44 521 95 280 76 120 411 8,349 60 260 107 168 181 1,203 197 121 1,532 2,720 aoi 712 42,175 2,' 57 87 1,898 255 249 908 2,498 582 15,573 Males. Females. 1,469,553 1,290,185 12,536 412 409 13 108 2 6,279 64 4 1,193 111 23 521 95 , . 280 76 120 411 8,321 28 60 260 104 8 164 4 181 1,203 116 si 80 41 1,528 4 2,185 686 201 477 2S5 24,265 17,920 2,667 62 25 1,861 47 254 244 1 6 908 .. 2,498 581 18,101 2,472 267 Principal OoouPATiosa. All Baces. PeraonB. Femalef). III.— CoMMEBoiAL CLASS [continotd). General Trader Petty Trader Basket Woman 1 ToU Renter, Toll Collector Carter ; Tavalan Man ' Pingo Bearer Boatman Seaman (ashore) Storekeeper Messenger, Porter, Errand Boy IV. — Aqeiodltohal Class. Land Proprietor Planter Coffee Planter Coco-nut Planter Tobacco Gardener Estate Superintendent Estate Conductor CultiTator Garden Cultivator , Coffee Gnrden Cultivator Agricultural Labourer , Climber Cowherd, Shepherd Laud Surveyor Grass— Cutter, Seller Hunter Farrier, Veterinary Surgeon Horse, Cattle— Trader Fisherman V. — ^INDDSTBIAI. Class. Bookbinder ; . ; Printer, Compositor Watch Bepairer Fitter ; ; ■... Saddle, Harness, Whip — Maker Carpenter '. Mason Painter, Plumber ; Dyer ; Dye-root — Digger, Seller ...: Cotton Spinner, Thread Manufacturer . . . . Cloth Weaver Lace — Manufacturer, Seller Weaver (not otherwise described) Draper, Cloth Dealer Tailor, Milliner, Seamstress Shoe, Sandal— Maker Dhoby Mat, Basket — Maker, Seller Hemp Manufacturer Coir-^Mauofacturer, Dealer Milk, Butter— Seller Butcher, Meat Salesman 19,770 6,642 2,&l!i 203 9,081 927 286 2,214 719 271 799 1,977 1,966 174 101 476 171 742 460,lti9 9,197 755 166,421 6,872 2,687 118 779 310 199 942 20,020 108 861 76 14,477 6,012 861 804 4^4 1,688 1,616 668 91 3,042 5,300 644 17,297 14,671 940 15,672 859 667 16,676 4,984 '205 9,031 926 28i 2,214 719 271 792 452 1,966 475 171 742 430,189 9,197 766 103,674 6,872 2,469- ll8 427 3111 199 941 19,980 103 861 75 202 88 14,475 5,012 861 266 17S, .22 1,471 ' 4 ■15 8,036 1,405 644 10,622 44-2 15 1,168 255 665 3,094 658. 2,512 62,747 852 I 90 86 289 1,666 146 669 76 7 8,896 6,676 14,229 925 14,504 104 2 268 Phincipai. Occopations. All Races. Persons. Males. Females. v.— iNDDSTKliL ClASS (continued). Ponltry, Egg — Seller 216 3,680 4,712 234 4,566 202 1,035 1,150 99 139 862 3,280 416 590 2,719 8,6.10 2,810 214 1.S57 sm 2,805 801 2,197 828 561 468 165 168 153 90 1,419 102 1,034 481 944 4,136 6,769 5,887 419 147 6,278 1,185 199 176 745 4,302 60 94 85,188 1,526 665 272 21S 1,958 2,028 10 1,091 142 587 845 98 T39 854 8,280 288 648 5 3,359 1,530 214 1,777 .S81 1,706 301 2,197 828 561 175 157 29 149 90 1,323 81 909 477 677 2,886 ■4,599 3,693 366 132 6,262 1,185 199 176 745 4,802 CO 94 64,985 715 665 272 4 1,722 2,689 224 3,476 60 448 SOS 1 '8 .. 183 42 2,714 271 1,280 80 2 699 288 8 189 4 96 21 126 4 267 1,260 2,170 2,294 84 16 21 20,158 811 1 Fishmonger Bice, Paddy, Grain— Seller , Baker, Bread Seller, Rice-cake Seller, Coffee- boutique Keeper Confectioner Vegetable Dealer Coco-nut, Koppora— Seller Arrack Distiller Liquor— Shopkeeper, Sriler Arrack Renter, Tavern Keeper, Arrack Sellir . . Toddy Drawer Jaggery — Manufacturer, Seller CoSee Seller Coffee Picker Tobacco Seller; Cigar, Snuff— Manufacturer, Dealer Betel, Areca-nut— Seller Tortoise-Bhell — Worker, Dealer OU— Miller, Monger Timber Dealer Cooper Timber Feller ; Firewood— Cutter, Seller Cadjan— Maker, Seller Plumbago Dealer ". .'. Stone — Cutter, Breaker, Seller Brick, Tile— Maker, Seller Lime — Burner, Seller . . . Rood Labourer Railway Labourer Potter, Earthenware Dealer Salt Dealer Goldsmith, Silversmith, Jeweller Gem Digger Lapidary Tinker Blacksmith Chanks— Fisher, Dealer VI.— Indefinite and kos-Pboddctive Artizan (branch undefined) Renter do. APPENDIX VII. STAPLE IMPOETS OF CEYLON FROM 1837 TO 1886. Cotton Manafacturex ; Bice ; Fish (dried and salted) ; Cattle. Cotton Goods. Bice. Fish. Cattle. Year. Value. Qoantitj. Value. Quantity. Value. No. Declared Value. £ Bnshels. £ Cwts. Pieces. £ £ 1887 220,873 660,042 149,503 6,980 29,528 6,719 1,801 1838 187,931 860,012 168,972 9.527 227,542 7,301 Dewribed 820 1839 128,607 884,628 182,300 8,581 lOT 5,674 as Live Stock, qiiaatity 1,166 18M 156,326 1,043,064 202,388 6,949 72,000 8,946 1,270 1841 184,691 1,106,152 183,488 9,996 4,709 not spe- cified in 1,727 1842 178,888 1,102,192 191,968 9,050 .. 6,913 6,181 184S 160,865 1,594,114 279,123 7,981 6,179 CuBtoms 7,696 1844 192,986 1,700,186 296,948 16,950 ,, 14,670 Returns. 22,885 1845 238,554 2,167,384 879,835 23,028 16,297 26,657 1846 185,590 2,162,206 372,940 84,033 .. 17,479 47,237 23,745 1847 178,064 2,121,0^2 372,109 29,852 16,480 61,594. 28,914 1848 182,767 1,910,685 329,420 86,291 36,343 47,265 26,425 1849 190,911 1,985,762 347,502 24,457 24,457 8,895 17,884 18S0 187.567 2,355,768 412,261 35,706 85,705 8,507 17,120 1851 216,274 2,221,466 888,777 29,026 29,026 8,994 17,688 1852 189,078 2,331,796 408,065 80,670 30,670 7,951 16,363 1853 228,226 2,574,580 462,870 81,000 .. 31,000 9,295 18,886 1854 262,082 2,161,706 379,994 42,118 42,118 12,524 25,268 1855 286.621 2,852,178 499,187 34,788 84,788 16,534 83.280 1856 814.596 8,157.385 552,548 56,800 66,800 11,817 28,515 1857 355,429 3,254,623 650,924 63,296 .. 63,396 10,675 21,685 1858 466,962 2,856,124 671,224 48,984 68!2re 11,228 25,119 1859 i<80,936 8,511,768 702,354 58,275 10,776 26,608 186U 640,284 3,182,204 636,428 55,989 56,989 10,514 24,471 18«1 567,464 4,181,096 886,219 61,382 61,362 9,758 28,780 1862 505,844 4,218,601 1,265,581 61,042 61,042 4,490 12,095 1868 790,408 4,415,821 1,824,745 60,906 60,905 14,085 46,883 1864 997,272 3.943,896 1,183,019 75,248 .. 75,248 7,607 23,509 1865 545,044 4,851,414 1,455,424 66,970 66,970 8,326 22,785 1866 860,310 3,777,820 1,138,196 70,190 70.190 9,059 43,079 1867 891,776 4,543,327 1.362,998 71,709 71,709 8,912 50,190 1868 642,802 4,455,315 1,386,594 73,294 73,294 7,892 39,469 1869 734,921 4,406,216 1,824,418 75,189 75,189 6,799 40,388 1870 976,987 4,735,832 1.539,145 76,968 76,968 7,605 53,018 1871 840,917 4,278,708 1,390,580 78,575 78,575 10,058 64,897 1872 883,400 5,367,302 1,744,378 88,96% 88,962 14,198 84,696 187B 865,060 5,708,142 1,855,146 108,169 108,169 14,749 82,560 1874 889,!)51 5,717,775 1,858,277 98,648 98,648 12,541 70,148 1875 780,903 5,527,620 1,714,762 86,999 £6,999 15,892 84,628 1876 952,510 5,855,645 1,908,084 87,598 87,598 17,881 91,661 1877 718,239 6,938,160 2,254,902 98,250 93,250 28,958 102,522 1878 494,210 6,668,969 2,167,414 84,429 84,429 17,492 55,929 1879 561,552 5,954,934 1,935,854 74,822 74,322 27,483 108,796 1880 704,889 6,094,999 1,980,875 90,896 90,896 4'f^ 73,943 1881 512,878 6,030,820 1,960,017 91,426 91,426 8,688 38,776 1882 462,112 6,757,025 1,871,033 92,841 92,841 9,587 86,100 1883 491,799 5,746,184 1,867,510 120,378 ,. 120,878 4-^?? 60,698 1884 657,882 5,490,768 1,784,500 101,619 101,619. 13,461 68,517 1885 847,212 5,784,129 1,863,592 127,184 127,134 10,081 50,283 1886 457,292 5,567,100 1,809,807 113,050 113,050 47,108 87,796 Cotton Goods.— KM from England ; up to the last four years, Colombo had a large trade in aapplying Southern liidia with cotton goods, but railway extension from Madras, and, above all, the abolition of customs duties on cotton in India, have taken away all this trade. Bice. — ^\\ from India (mainly to feed immigrant population from India, and popula- tions of large towns). Fish. — All from India, for curries of same population. Cattle — ^All from Indiu, for transpun pur^^cs and food for Europeans and Burghers. APPENDIX VIII. CEYLON: "THE- EDEN OF THE EASTEEN WAVE." The Land of Cinnamon, Palms, Tea, Coffee, CincJwna, the Chocolate Plant ; Pearls, Rubies, and Sapphires ; of ancient ruins second only to those of EgyjJt ; of Tropical Scenery the finest in the world. [Statistics Arranged and Compile^ by J. Ferguson, of Ceylon Observer and Tropical Agriculturist, at the request of Sir A. N. Birch, K.C.M.G., Commissioner for Ceylon to the Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886 ; for exhibition in the Ceylon Court.] « Area in square miles ... 25,000 Population in 1887 ... 2,900,000 Divided into 8 provinces, administered by Governor and about 80 covenated Civil Servants. J^aces .-—Sinhalese, 1,930,000; Tamils, 725,000; Moormen (Arab descendants), 200,000 ; Eurasians, 19,000 ; Malays, 9,000 ; Europeans, 5,500 ; Veddahs, 2,500 ; others, 8,000. Eeliginns: — Buddhists, 1,760,000;, Sivaites (Hindus), 600,000 ; Mohammedans, 200,000 ; Roman Catholics, 210,000; Protestants, 65,000; others, 65,000. Longest Eiver : — Mahaweliganga — 150 niiles (Ganges of Ptolemy). Highest Mountains : — Pidurutalagala, 8,296 feet ; Adam's Peak, 7,358 ; 150 mountain peaks from 3,000 to 7,000 feet. * A few later results have been embodied in this page. — J. F. Ceylon : Summary of Information. 271 Towns : — Capital, Colombo, 120,000 people, with splendid Breakwater, great steamer coaling and calling port of the East ; Kandy (ano.ient capital), 24,000 ; Point-de- GaUe, 35,000; Trincomalee (with grand harbour), 11,000. Wild Animals: — Elephants, Cheetah, Black Bear, Buffaloe, Boar, Elk and Small Deer ; Eagle ; Crocodile ; Shark. Eevmue ^1,300,000 :/Vade .-—Total Annual Trade iES.OOOjOOO Total Imports from United Kingdom Jgl, 250,000 Total Exports to do. ... f 2,250,000 Total of Shipj)ing entered and cleared annually, about 4,000,000 tons. Roads: — 2,500 miles, inetalled and gravelled, among the best in the world. Railways : — 185 miles — first class Eailway — 5\ feet gauge. Canals :- — 170 jniles. Education : — Total of Scholars, 120',000, or about 25 per cent, of children of school-going age ; 1,200 miles of Telegraph wire ; 135 Post Offices. Acres. Area Cultivated : — ... ... 3,130,000 Probable Extension of Cultivation within 10 years to 4,600,000 Details of Cultivation : — Under Palm trees (Coco, Palmyra, Areka 1 Kitul, &c.) ■ .-. . 650,000 Do. Other Fruit-trees (Orange, Mango > Bread and Jak Fruit, &c.) 50,000 Do. Rice ". 660,000 Do. Other Grain 150,000 Do. Garden vegetables, (Cassaya > Yams, &o. ... 100,000 Do. Coffee, Arabian and Liberian 130,000 Do. Tea 150,000 (to rise shortly to 200,000) Do. Cinnamon-, Cardamom, and other Spices 60,000 Do. Chocolate plants (Cacao) 15,000 Do. Cinchona Bark (Quinine) trees ... 40,000 Do. Tobacco 25,000 Do. Eubber, and Gum trees 5,000 Do. Fibre-yielding plants 10,000 Do. Essential oil-grass (Citrpnella) ... 20,000 272 Ceylon in tJip. Jubilee Yeajr. ExporU of Tea have risen from 25,0001b. in 1878 to 4,373,0001b. in 1885, and to. 7,850,0001b. in 1886; expected to reach 24,000,0001b. in 1888; and 40,000,0001b. in 1890. Do. of Cinchona Bark have risen from 200,0001b. in 1878 to 14,700,0001b. in 1886. Do. of Cocoa (from Cacao plant) from 10 cwt. in 1878 to 13,056 cwt. in 1886. Do. of Cardamoms (Spice) from 14,0001b. in 1878 to 239,0001b. in 1886. Do. of Cinnamon from 650,0001b. in 1850 to 2^ mil- lion lb. of late years. Do. of Coconut Oil has risen to 400,000 cwt. from 85,000 cwt. in 1850. Total crop of Coconuts in one year is equal to 700,000,000 nuts. 200,000 Tamil Coolies find work on plantations; likely to require 300,000 ere long with tea. SUMMAEY OF INFOEMATION EEGAEDING CEYLON. Its Natural Features, Climate, Progress, Agriculture, Commerce, Industries, Public Works, Eehgions, Sights, &c. [Compiled and corrected up to March, 1887, by A. M. & 3. Ferguson.] CEYLON [part, as many believe, of the region known to the Hebrews as Ophir and Tarshish] : — Taprobane of the Greeks and Eomans (from Tamraparni, Sanslctit, and Tambapani, Pali) ; Sercndib of the Arab voyagers ; Lankd of the Continental Hindus and the Sinhalese ; Ilangei of the Tamils ; Lankapura of the Malays ; Tewalankd of the Siamese ; Seho or Teho of the Burmese ; Ceilao of the Portuguese, &o. Pearliform Island ("pearl-drop on the brow of Ind"), bounded by the Indian Ocean, Bay of Ben- gal, and Gulf of Mannar ; greatest length and breadth 267 by 140 miles ; circumference, 760 miles. Lat. 5° 53^ to 9° 61" N. ; Long. 79° 41^ 4" to 81° 54^ 50" E. Sun rises 5i hours before he shines on Britain. Light from 6 to 6 Ceylon : nummary of Information. 273 nearly all tbe year round ; but the , sun sets about 42 minutes later in July than in November, indeed twilight in June occasionally exists till after 7 p.m. ABEA. About 24,702 square miles; or 15,809,280 acres, of which about one-sixth comprises hilly and mountainous zones, lying in the centre of the southern half of the island. Maritime districts generally level, and northern end of island broken up into flat narrow peninsula and small islets. DISTANCES (approximate) : from nearest point of Southern India, via " Adam's Bridge " and Bamisseram to Tallaimanaar, 60 miles ; from Madras to Point Pedro, 250 ; to Galle, 545. — To Colombo : from Tuticorin, 450 ; Madras, 615 ; Cal- cutta, 1,385; Bombay, 900; Aden, 2,400; Suez, 3,800; Port Said, 8,950 ; Malta, 4,550 ; Gibraltar, 1,950 ; Brin- disi, 4,500 ; Marseilles, 5,750 ; Cape, 5,000 ; England by Cape, 15,000 ; by Suez CanaL to Southampton, 6,500 ; from Mauritius via Aden, 4,500 ; direct, about 2,600 ; Singapore, 1,600 ; Hong Kong, 3,000 ; Yokohama, Japan, 4,700; Freemantle, Western Australia, 3,000; King George's Sound or Albany, 3,400 ; Adelaide, 4,400 ; Mel- bourne,' 4,900 ; Sydney, 5,450 {via Torres Straits, 6,500); Brisbane, via Torres Straits,' 5,900; New Zealand (Auck- land) 7,000 miles. The distances generally are counted from Colombo. HiaHEST MOUNTAINS. Pidnrutalagala (rising over the Sanatarium of Ceylon, Nuwara Eliya) 8,296 feet, or nearly 1,000 feet higher than Adam's Pet^ (7,353), usually described as the highest, be- cause it is to voyagers the most conspicuous moimtain in Ceylon. This latter is really the fifth in altitude, being inferior to Kirigalpotta (7,832), Totapola (7,746), and Kuduhngala (7,607), as well as to Pidnrutalagala. Fully 150 mountains, ranging from 3,000 to 7,000 feet. (245 recorded trigonometrical altitudes over 1,000 feet, 145 over 3,000 feet, 118 over 4,000 feet, 63 ovpr 5,000 feet, 28 over 6,000 feet, and 10 over 7,000 feet.) Most of the mountain ranges on which tea and cinchona or coffee is cultivated 19 274 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year, are wooded to their summits ; but vast prairie tracts of hill region, chiefly on the eastern side, bear little beyond coarse lemon-grass. Mountain scenery generally rich and grand. GEEATEST KIVERS AND WATERFALLS. The Mahaweliganga (Ganges of Ptolemy), nearly 150 miles from its source, in its longest feeder the Agra-oya under Kirigalpotta (the " milk-stone-book " mountain) close to Horton's Plains, to its double debouchure near the great harbour of Triucomalee on the east coast. This river drains nearly one-sizth of the area of the island. Eivers not naturally favourable for navigation, except near the sea, where they expand into backwaters. Steam navigation -by means of small vessels introduced on Colombo lake, between Colombo and Negombo on canal, and shortly expected on Kaluganga, and on Kelani river to Awisawella. The Kelani entering sea near Colombo ; Kaluganga at Kalutara ; Mahaoya, near Negombo ; the Ginganga, near Galle; Walawe-oya near Matara, are some of the other numerous rivers. Eivers in mountain regions frequently fall over precipices, forming beautiful waterfalls. One in Dimbula and another in lower Maskeliya, both between 200 and 300 feet high ; in Eastern Haputale one said to be 535 feet ; and the foot of Eamboda Pass, cele- brated for a series of beautiful falls. No proper surveys available ; but a series of cascade-falls on Kurunduoya in Maturata measured from top to bottom, when nearly full of water, about 920 feet. In the arid regions of the north of the island some of the river beds which run fuU of water in the rainy months of the north-east monsoon (middle of October to middle of January) show only ex- panses of sand with a few pools in the, dry or south-west monsoon season, during which the north-east of the island is almost rainless, while torrents are" deluging the south- west coast. LAKES. None inland, but ruins of magnificent tanks ■ (Sea of Prakkrama, Minneriya, Kanthalai, Giant's Tank, &c.) in north and east of island ; and fine, extensive backwaters on the sea-coast, such as the Negombo Lake, the Lakes of Bolgoda, MuUaittivu, Batticaloa, &c. The freshwater Ceylon : Summary of Information. 275' lakes, which add so mnch to the beaaty of Colomho, Ean^y, and NnwaTa Eliya are artificial or partly so. The Labngama Beservoir for the Colombo Water Supply, covering 176 acres, among hills, 30 miles from Colombo, forms a beautiful lake. TIDES. Generally almost imperceptible (at Colombo the rise and fall never exceed 3 feet, more generally 2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches on the springs, and 6 to 9 inches on the neaps), but in the debouchures of some backwaters and rivers the tide is more noticeable : at Fanadiire the tidal current runs in at the rate of 4 miles an hour. Powerful currents also sweep round the coasts, some of them owing their origin to the Indian Ocean. GEOLOaY AND MINKBAI.0OY. The geological formations met with in Ceylon are of the Palaeozoic, Mezozoic and recent age. The greatest portion of the island consists of ancient sedimentary beds, doubt- ful whether deposited sea or lake, as metamorphoses have obliterated all traces of .fossil remains. Mountain ranges formed of primary and metamorphic rock. Principal rock : gneiss, with beds of laterite (locally named " cabook "} and dolomite, according to some authorities — described by others as crystalline marble or primary limestone. Plenty of iron, bat no trace of coal. Manganese, gold and platinum, but in such small quantities not apparently worth gathering. Molybdenum, cobalt, nickel, tin, copper, and arsenic also occur. Plumbago the only mineral of commercial importance. Cretaceous beds of Ja&a of Mezozoic age. Nitre in caves. Salt forms naturally, and is also mannfectured in sufficient quantity at Puttalam, Jafba, and Hambantota, to supply the consumption of the island. Calcareous tufa met with at Bintenna de-< posited from warm springs. Hot springs at Trincomalee and other places, but no direct evidence of present volcanic action (unless in Kelebokka valley), and earthquakes seldom perceptible, save as the outer verge of disturbances in Java and Eastern Archipelago. Greenstone, however, underlies gneiss at Kadugannawa, and with Vitrefactions ia observed in fissures of rocks at Trincomalee. Springs of sulphuretted 276 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. hydrogen similax to Harrogate "water occur in Fnttalam district. Large tracts of alluvinm occnr in the Kawara Eliya and other districts. Process of slow upheaval be- lieved to be in operation on western coast, with compen- sating disintegration of mountain ranges. Recent forma- tion : a breccia formed of particles of disintegrated roclt held together by calcareous and ferruginous matter near Negombo and along coast. Gems abundant, especially about Ratnapura (" city of gems "), but, with exception of blue sapphire and red ruby, of slignt value. A flawlesssapphire is rare, and good rubies are excessively scarce. Zircon or " Matara Diamond," and amethyst, common. Chrysoberyl for " cat's-eye") not uncommon, curious, and of late years prized in Britain. Moonstones (very beautiful form of "adularia") and "cinnamon stones" (brown garnets) common. Spinel and tourmaline very aljundant. Many rocks and river beds sparkle with red garnets, beautiful but intrinsically valueless. Ceylon celebrated for fine pearls, chiefly from oyster or mussel banks of north-west coast. Gemming license in Ceylon is RlO per annum, subject to certain published rules. CUMATE. Varies in different parts, from hot and arid plains of north and east, to warm and humid south-west coast, and cool and wet mountain regions ; but, for the tropics, generally healthy. Fever zone » extends below middle altitudes of mountain ■ ranges, and banks of rivers fre- quently unhealthy. Fever seldom or never occurs above 3,000 feet altitude, and is rare within the influence of the sea breezes. The hot months at Colombo are February, March and April, and sometimes (when the monsoon is delayed) May; when all, who can, escape to the hill regions, Nuwara EUya especially. The heat in Ceylon, however, seldom reaches 90° in the shade : 95J° in AprU being the maximum in Colombo — 95-8° on 22nd February, 1885, actual highest — where the mean of the year nearly touches 81°, sea-breezes tempering the heat for a large portion of the year. At Trincomalee the maximum was 101"7° on 10th May, 1886. The rate of mortality in Ceylon towns ranges from 1-65 per cent, for Jaffna (Colombo 1-76) to 406 for Kurunegala. The military death-rate i^n Ceylon Ceylon : Nummary of lnfi»rmdtion. 277 is down to 25 in 1,000 ; and this xatd ia aapiable of still farther redaction by sanitary mdadares. Tfa£ opening of the Suez Canal and the facUities offered hy steatn com- munication have led to abandonment of Nawara Eliya as a military sanatarium, invalid soldiers being sent ''home" instead. The perfection of climate in Ceylon is supposed to be found at and around Bandarawela (distant 118 miles from Colombo), on the plateaa of the Uva principality, at 8,900 feet elevation, the average temperature being 68°, with an average annual rainfall of 78 ino^es falling on 126 days ; but the climate of Lindula, Bogawantalawa, Udapussellawa and Nilwara £liya is also very good. HETEOKOLOaT. Exposed to both monsOons ( S. W. from April to Septem- ber, N.E. from November to February), but storms seldom violent. Ceylon is most fortunate in being, outside the region of the cyclones peculiar at certain seasons to the Bay of Bengal ; also the hurricanes of the M^inritius Beas, and the volcanic disturbances of Java and the Eastern Archipelago. Bainfall : 85 at Hambantota ; 88 inches at Mannar; 48 inches at JaSna ; 53 at Anuradhapura ; 62| at Batticaloa ; 61^ at Trincomalee ; 76^ at Bandarawella in Uva ; 81^ at Eandy ; 85^ at Matale ; 87^ at' Colombo ; 98^ at Kurunegala ; 100 inches Nuwara. EUya; 106| at Ei^atara ; 127 Bamboda'; andf from 117 to 150 on the ipimbola, Dikoya.andMaskeliya rangesr outside the table- lands of Nuwara Eliya at 6,000 feet, and Horton Plains 7,000 feet altitude ; 150^ at Batnapiira ; IS^i at Nawala- pitiya; 159 at AwisaweUa; and 200 at Templestowe, Ambagamuwa; «nd the mnximum 228 at Padapol% north- east of Adam's Peak. In parts of Yakdessa the annual rainfall is often over 200 inches, as much, as 50 inohes of which hav« been known to fall in one month, and. a dozen inches in as many\ hours. Temperature varies from a mean of 68° F. at the mountain sanatarium of Nuwara Eliya ; 65 to 66 at Langdale, Dimbula. and. at Bogawanta- lawa, Dikoya ; a mean of 72 at BadnUa, 75^ Eandy, and 81 at Colombo, 80 Galle, Batnapura, Puttal^, Hamban- tota, and Anuradhapura ; about 82 at Batticaloa, Jaifna, Mannar, and a fraction higher at Trincomalee. The ex- tremes in the shade range from below freezing point at 278 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Nuwara Eliya to 95-8 at Colombo and 101-7 at Trinco- malee. Except in the north and east, climate moist as well as hot. Fertility due more to this circumstance than to richness of soil generally. Fruits of temperate re- gions fail from continuous warm moisture, but long-con- tinued and extreme heat, acting as a wintering (the roots being laid bare), favours grape cultivation at Jaffna : suc- cessful growth also in Dumbera valley and near Nuwara Eliya. Snow is unknown. Hail not unfrequent in hill dis- tricts in very hot weather. Ice forms occasionally at Nuwara Eliya under clear radiating sky during the rainless months, December to February. Electrical phenomena — thunder, lightning, waterspouts, &c. — frequent and sometimes grand, and hghtning occasionally destructive to life, especially to natives who climb trees or take refuge from rain under them. Coconut palms, papaya, plantain, and other pithy or sappy trees and shrubs are peculiarly fitted as lightning conductors. Lightning so frequently seen without thunder being heard, that Arabs compare a, liar to Ceylon lightning. Optical phenomena, such as rainbows, Buddha rays, an- thelia, mirage, occasionally very striking. Sunsets fre- quently beautiful, and zodiacal light sometimes seen. Moonlight and .starry, nights often splendid, and, when perfectly cloudless, peculiarly cool. Ceylon, while presenting most points of resemblance in its fauna and flora to the neighbouring continent of India, differs in some respects, and assimilaltes to the Malayan Archipelago. There can be little or no doubt that cinna- mon, for which Ceylon has always been famous, is really indigenous to this island. So doubtless, with rice. On the other hand, its best-known productions, coffee and coconuts, are introductions (the first certainly, the second also in the judgment of botanists), also tea, cacao, and cinchona. Most South American plants readily adapt themselves to the island, as is proved by the recent success of the cinchonas, cacao, and rubber trees. Tea is also growing luxuriantly in a climate peculiarly favourable to leafage. Ceylon is peculiarly noted for ferns and balsams; while orchids abound. Ebony, satin wood, and other fine cabinet woods, with serviceable timber, are plentiful in the Ceylm; Sianjnary of information. S7fl fbrests. Galamander, &e most beautiful of the cabinet ^oods, is becoming very scarce, only a few trees being TAportedasleft. In the higher mountain regions, familiar Ekiropean forms mingle with tbd. richest tro^cal vegetation'. Palms and baml^>os are specially beautiful and luxuriant : few objects in nature being more magnificent than a talipot palm in flower, and few more elegant than the slender areka palm, or the tall bending green bamboo of the moun- tain forests below Nuwara Eliya. The coconut palm luxuriates along the western and south-western coasts, and mdeed fe^r inland, up the river valleys, jiist as the palm3nra, with its 600 different uses to the natives, abounds in the Jaffna peninsula. Many of the forest trees, such as the lagerstroemia regina, red rhododendron, and searlet- blbssomed cotton tree, bear beautiful flowers ; whilq the vari-ooloured foliage of the jungle cinnamon, ironwood, &e., relieve the deep green of the forest, looking at a distance like rich floral masses. There are few parts of the world so rich in fungi as Ceylon, and one, new to science, h^^ within the past generation, almost annihilated the great coffee enterprise of the island. Backwaters are rich in mangroves. Some of the seaweeds are also very beautiful. The indigenous species of plants enumerated by "Dr. Tri- men, of the Boyal Botanic Gardens, Feradehiya, include ; — Dicotyledons, 2,019 ; Monocotyledons, 710 ; Filices, LycopodiacesB, and Marsileace8e,'260^total 2,989 : double the flora of Britain, and about one-thirtieth of all species ia the world yet deseribed. M(mkeys "are numerous, five species of wanderoo (iangura), of which ilo; less than four are recognized as peculiar to the island/ The capped-mopkey (macacos) famous for its grimaees, aiid capacity for learning tricks; the foris, a queisr orefttprfl, the eyes much valued as medicine by. tiie natives I Bats are very numerous in genera and species, flying foxes (pteropus) vampires, leaf- nosed, horse-shoe, and the beautiful painted bat, and o()hers ; musk and other shrews plentifnU a hiE species peculiar to the island;; the sloth-bear common in the low country ; jackals everywhere ;, otters common in suitable places,- from th6 shores to the highest hiljs ; no tigers or 280 Ceylon irt the Jubilee Year.. lions (though tue native name of the people signifies ibe "lion descended"); the panther or leopard ■,(erronep»sly called cheetah locally) is the largest feline, and is common in most places ; the tiger and red-spotted cats generally distributed; lesser civet numerous, its presence being often betrayed by its powerful scent; a paradoxurns, peculiar to the island, and palm cat common ; mongooses numerous of five species, a very distinct one (onychogale Maccarihia of Gray) peculiar to the island; squirrels abound, two species of the remarkable flying squirrel, several small and pretty ground squirrels (equally at home on trees^^s well) can be seen and heard on all sides, and are amu^g to watch ; rats and mice only too numerous, the jeeboa or jumping rats, bandicoot ffnd bash or coffee rat may be mentioned, a rat and a mouse also peculiar to the island ; the' porcupine generally found -through hill and lowlands, as is also the blaek-neoked hare; that strange mail- covered but toothless creature, the pangolin', is found up to a considerable elevation, as well as in the low country. Elephants, the lords of the forest, specially famous, ai-e found from the sea-coast to the highest points of the island, are said to be decreasing in some districts, but still numerous in others. [Large numbers formerly killed by sportsmen; 1,600 (captured by being snared, or enclosed in kraals) exported to India from ^Northern Province in five years ended 1862. A license now required to shoot elephants, and the number killed or captured has much decreased : only 1,685 exported in eighteen years, from 1862 to 1880, valued at E452,000, a royalty of E200 for every elephant exported having no doubt checked the trade. Eoyalty reduced to ElOO in 1882 ; exports in six years, 1880 to 1885, equalled 182 elephants, E96,88d.] The wild boar common everywhere ; buffaloes common iu the wilder parts still, but their Qumbers much reduced, daring the last decade or two from disease and the rifle. Of deer, the fine sambur (locally elk), the spotted, the paddy-field, the red (rumtjae) and little mouse-deer (miminna) still common, and afford good sport to the hunter. Whales, dugongs, porpoises, and dolphins repre- sent the marine carnivore which sport around the coast, where also the screaming cries of sea-eagles and the osprey may be heard, which find their " echo " in the distant hills from the large beautiful crested eagle peculiar Ceylon : Svlmmary of Infotmation. 281 to Ceylon, and others of the family; peregrine falcons have their stations here and there; kestrels, harriers,. and many species of Lawks numerous ; owls of many species; from the fine forest-eagle owl to the little scops, not forgetting the renowned devil-hird, all fairly numerous; the sports- man is attracted hy the nupierous pea-fowls, jungle, and spur-fowl (these two peculiar to Ceylon), and quails, which are common in many places. The frog-tnputh and several goatsuckers, swifts, including the species remarkable for making edible nests, swallows common, rollers, king- fishers, bee-eaters, the scarlet-breasted trogan, several, species of sun bird (called humming birds locally), repre- sent the feathered beauties of the Island; tailor and weaver birds, the wonderful nest builders, wagtails, and warblers in tyinter only (so they sing not here), but remind Europeans of sweet home; many varieties of thrushes, bablers, orioles, bnlbuls, flycatchers, chiats, and drongos everywhere ; the splendid ' mountain jay and its sobej- coloured friend the grey starling are peculiar to the island ; grakles, munias (locally ortolans), liirks, and pipits niimerous; parakeets, hbmbills, barbets, and gaudy woodpeckers, each having repi'esentatives peculiar tO' the island, and many other Species so common as to be a marked feature in woodland retreats of hill and dale ; a beautiful woodpigeon, paraquets, peculiar to Ceylon, the rock-pigeon, many species of firuit pigeons and doves, a titmouse, a lovely nuthatch, crows and shrikes, the ubiquitous magpie • robin, the long-tailed jungle robin, and blackbird are fine songsters, the jungle robin inferior only to the nightingale itself; many others have songs, like Annie Laurie's, low and sweet, so are not noticed by casual observers. Not less interesting and extensive is the list of marsh and sea birds; the famous Marabou 'and other storks, the gigantic and other herons, beautiful egrets and bitterns of several species, the painted and other snipes, sandpipers, plover, dotterel, the cock of the ireeds, the, purple and other gallimules, and rails numer- ous in suitable places. ' The'siugular jacanus or water- pheasant, the scarlet flamingo, ducks of many kinds, the dab-chick, gulls, terns, snake-birds (darter), cormorants, and pelicans common found the coast and tanks ; frigate- birds and petrels occasionally, altogether making up a wonderfully diversified list of fur and feathers for so small 282 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. an area, -over 860 species of birds having been recognized to date, of which no less than 45 are believed to be pecnliar to the island. The following reptiles are found in Ceylon : — Land tortoise, one ; fresh water, one ; fresh water turtle, one ; marine tnrtles, four ; crocodiles, two ; • water lizards, two ; skinks, five; acontiads, four; geckos, sixteen; agames (or bloodsuckers), fifteen ; chameleon, one ; snakes of fifteen different groups, about sixty, eight of which are venemous and three deadly, whilst about twenty-three sea snakes are found on the coast, all said to be deadly. Of ground and tree frogs, forty ; and one burrowing batrachian. Eiver fish, chiefly 'carp, are few in number and of inferi6r quality. Better kinds might be introduced: perches introduced NuweraEliya lake, and experiment with trout about to be made. There are from 500 to 700 different kinds of sea fish, mainly species of mackerel, to which the salmon-like seer-fish belongs, with sharks and rays. No cod, but 'sword and saw fish, mullet, perches, lobsters, crabs, prawns, " beche de mer," chanks, edible and ^earl oysters. Sea and land shells numerous and beautiful. The floor of the sea in certain parts is studded with richly-coloured corallines and the softer zoophytes, while the waters swarm with star and jeUy fish and infusoria, so that frequently the waves, in breaking, dis- play a line of phosphorescence, chiefly caused by the nocfciluca miliaris. Perhaps there is no sea-coast in the world richer in fishes and shells, and some of the fishes described have a right to the title " odd." Mr. Edgar Layard has described perches which " walk, across country " (allied to those which Dr. John, of Tranquebar, found climbing palmyra trees) ; and the late Bev. B. Boake made acquaintance with air-breathing species 'Which flourish in mud, but drown in pure water, and others which, disdaining the marsupial pouch possessed by th.e " sea-horses," carry their young in their mouths. Fishes actually live in the hot weUs near Trincomalee in a temperature of 115°. The natives of Ceylon are great consumers of fish, the Buddhists salving their consciences by the subterfuge that they do not kill the fish, they only take them out of the water. Myriads of insects, including butterflies, beetles, bees. Ceylon : Summary of Information, 288 wasps, mosquitoes ; white, black and red ants ; ticks, scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, multitudes of curious spiders, &c., are found in Ceylon, and the periodical swarms of butterflies, which proceed in the teeth of the prevailing winds, are peculiarly interesting. Many of the butterflies, moths (including atlas moth, cinnamon moth, and the variety which yields the tusse7' silk), beetles, and dragon-flies, are exceedingly beautiful. Efforts to domes- ticate bees have not been very successful hitherto : two or three wild varieties. Leaf-insects and " praying mantis " curious, and whole regions resound to the incessant noise of the cicada or "knife-grinder." Coconut beetles, cock- chafers and their grubs, and coccus, known as coffee bug, very injurious. Grasshoppers and locusts occasionally destructive over limited areas. A species, of wasp builds pendant nests (chiefly on coconut trees) six feet long. Spiders' webs sometimes so numerous, large and strong as almost to check the progress of travellers through forests. Land leeches excessively troublesome in the damp forests of the lower hills ; Indian medicinal leech common. HISTOKICAIi NOTES. From conquest by Wijaya, Prince from Northern India, about B.C. 543, to deposition of Sri Wikrama Eaja Sinha, last King of Kandy, in 1815, Sinhalese annals record one hundred and sixty sovereigns. Portuguese first visited Ceylon 1505, erected fort at Colombo 1518. Dutch first visited Ceylon 1602, landed forces in 1640, and ousted the Portuguese in 1658, so that Portuguese occupation lasted 140 years. Dating from their landing in 1640 to the capitulaiSon of Colombo in 1796, the Dutch occupation lasted 156 years ; or 138, if the 18 years of warfare with the Portuguese are excluded. Acquired by England : Mari- time Provinces, 1796 (separated from Madras Presidency and maae Crown Colony 1798) ; Kandyan Kingdom, 1815. Torture, compulsory labour, and slavery, successively abolished 1803, 1882, aild 1844. Trial by jury introduced 1811. Kandyan polyandry and polygamy (prematurely) prohibited 1856 ; law relaxed 1869. There was a formid- able rebellion in 1817-18 in the Kandyan Provinces, and again a feeble rising, also of Kandyans, in 1848. The Kandyans, equally with the rest of the population of 284 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Ceylon, are now loyal, contented, and pacific, so that the small military force (about 1,000 infantry and artillery) which the colony supports is scarcely required, since about 760 volunteers (Ceylon Light Infantry) and a strong body (1,500) of pplice are more than sufficient for the repressio'n of any possible internal disturbance (religious or rice riots the onlypublic form experienced), and it is believed for repelling (with the artillery), what we may deem impossible, sudden piratical attack. Ceylon, out of her small force, yielded valuable aid to India in repressing the mutiny of 1857, and Colombo has been found a convenient depot for the dispatch of troops with reference to wars in China, New Zealand, Egypt, and South Africa, for which parts regiments hav^ beep taken from Ceylon. ANTIQUITIES. Besides tanks, important and ancient Hindu and Budd- hist temples and other ruins at Dondra, Anuradhapura, Folonnaruwa, Mihintalle, Segiri, &e., the Jetawanarama Dagoba at Anuradhapura, originally 316, is still 269 feet high, or more than half the altitude of the great Egyptian Pyramid, diameter at base 396 feet; side of square 779 feet. The sacred bo-tree (Jicus religiosa) at this place is believed to be one "of the oldest historical trees in the world, perhaps over 2,100 years. The Maligawa at Kandy is famous as containing the so-called tooth of Buddha — a piece of discoloured ivory. At DambuUa is a vast rock temple; while the small Aluwihara, near Matale, is interesting as the place where the Buddhist doctrines are said to have been reduced to writing about a century b.c. [See Burrow's "Buried Cities of Ceylon."] POPULATION. {Remits of Census of 1881 : 1 per cent, can be added for each year since.) 2,759,738' (over 2,900,000 probably in 1887) ; 112 to square mile,, ranging. from 16 in North-Central Province to 216 in Western. Kaces (estimated) : Sinhalese (Kandyan and maritime), 1,846,000; Tamils, 687,240; Moormen, 184,600,- Malays, 18,895; Javanese, Kafirs or Negroes, Afghans, Arabs, Persians, Parsees, &c., 7,849 ; Yeddahs, 2,228; European descendants, 17,886; Europeans, 4,836. Ceylon : Summary of Informaliott. 285 [About 200,000 of the Tamils are immigranfs, balance of nearly 3 millions who came from Southern India (chiefly to labour temporarily on coffee estates) in 45 years ending 1885, and who have settled down here ; besides which there is a floatmg Tamil population of nearly 200,000 more. Nearly one-fourth of the Europeans are military and families. Effective militarij number, about 1,000. Ncuive soldiei-y (since the disbandment of the Ceylon Rifle Eegiment) consist of 88 Hindu gun Iftscafs. Total Militant (volunteers : European and native), with women and children, say 1,800. Constituents of European popula- tion, wives and families included: Military, 1,250; planters, 4,000 ; colonial service (civil servants proper number only 75, with 15 writers) 900; merchanits and their emplo>es, clergymen, physicians, storekeepers, railway, employes, &c., 1,200. There are of all classes about 8.400 lawyers, advocates, and proctors in Ceylon, with 600 notaries ; 300 clergymen and missionaries (450 in census) ; 155^ physicians and surgeons (besides 3,000 native vederales) ; 200 justices of the peace and unofficial tnagisttates.]' POLITICAt DIVISIONS. [The latest regular Census was that of 1881.] Eight provinces, viz. : Western, 3;456 miles; 897,829 population ; 260 to square mile. North-Western, 8,024 miles; 293,327 population; 97 to square mile. Southern, 1,980 miles; 483,520 population; 219 to square mile. Eastern, 367 miles ; 127,555 population ; 35 to square mile. Northern, 3,171 miles ; 302,5'00 population.; 95 to square mile. Central (as reduced), 2,003 miles ; 310,000 population. North- Central, 4,067 miles; 66,146 popula- tion-; 16 to square mile. At the beginning of 1886, the Uva Principality was separated ifrbm the Central Province and made an eighth province, of 165,672 population and 4,026 square miles in area. Provinces sub-divided into korales or counties, and minor divisions, such as pattus, &o. [Besides municipalities and local boards in the chief towns, and " gansabawas " or rural village councils, there are also judicial divisions and circuits, liable to change, the enumeration of which would convey little definite information.] 286 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. CHIEF TOWNS. Colombo, according to census of 1881, with military and shipping added, 111,942 in area of 9^ square miles ; Galle, 33,000; Kandy, 22,000; Jaffna, 40,000; Batticaloa, 6,700; Eurunegala, 4,222; Anuradhapura, 1,300; Badulla, 4,746. [The above are. the " capitals of the provinces. Negombo, Ratnapura, Kalutara, Panadure, and Moratuwa in the Western Province; Gampola, Matale, Nawalapitiya, Nuwara Eliya, and Hatton in the Central; Kalpitiya, Chilaw, and Puttalam in the North- Western ; Point Pedro in the Northern; Matarii, AmbalangOda and Baddegama in the Southern Province ; Haldumijdla and Lunugalla in the Uva Province are, some of them, of more importance as regards population than the provincial capitals, while Trincomalee (population 10,180), though no longer the chief seat of civil government jn the Eastern Province, continues to be of importance as the naval .head-quarters of the East Indian fleet, although now that Colombo, with cojivenient harbour works, has been made the mail-steamer port, it is expected the naval station will ere long be trans- ferred to itj especially if a graving dock is constructed.] BEUGIONS. Estimated : Romanists, about 218,000. Protestants : Episcopalians, 22,000; Wesleyans, 20„000; Scotch and Dutch Presbyterians, and Congregationalists (latter con- verts of American mission), 13,000; Baptists, 5,000. Total Protestants, 60,000. Total Christians, 278,000. Buddhists and demon-worshippers, 1,700,000 ; Gentoos (worshippers of Siva, Vishnu, PuUeiyar, and other gods of the Hindu pantheon), 595,000; Muhammadans, 198,000. So that we get 278,000 Christians against 198,000 Muhammadens, and no less than 2,300,000 idolaters and demon-worship- pers. [We rank as Christians 170,000 Sinhalese, 85,000 Tamils, 17,800 European descendants, 4,800 Europeans, and a few Kafirs, Veddas, and Rodiyas.] The proportion of Christians to whole population (nearly 10 per cent.) is far higher in Ceylon than in India, where those professing Christianity do not much exceed half-a-million out of the whole 250 millions or more, Ceylon is the classic land of Buddhism, and its fall here would influence a vast pro- portion of the human race (in Burmah, Siam, and China). Ceylon ; Summary of Information. 287 !Fhe' Eiiig of Siam frequently sends offerings to the ♦' Temple of the Sacred Tooth," in Kandy ; • also the Kings of BariDah, up till Thebaw's dethronement, and so interested in Ceylon was a late King of Burmah, that he had copies of the Observer newspaper translated for his benefit into Burmese. There were 6,800 Buddhist, 1,200 Hindu, and 521 Muhammedan priests returned in last census; besides 300 of temple servants, 140 topi-tom beaters, 1,532 devil dancers, 200 astrologers, 200 actors and nautch dancers, 120 snake charmers, 168 musicians. The total for church -and chapel "service" was 110, besides ^22 missionaries, clergymen, and ministers, in- cluding natives. LANGUAGES AND LITEBATUEE, Sinlialese, founded on the Sanskrit, with a considerable infusion of Pali," and therefore belonging to the Indo- European family; but peculiar, except in its Sanskrit roots, to Ceylon. A Dravidian origin has been claimed for the language, but, as Spence Hardy shrewdly pointed out, all the names of places, mountaine, and rivers are Sanskrit. Tamil, the leading branch of the Dravidian family, common to about 16 millions of people in Southern India and Ceylon. Spoken by the Moormen as well as the Tamils proper. A Portuguese patois still retains its hold amongst the European descendants, but Dutch has gone entirely out. Knowledge of English rapidly advancing in towns and villages. Historical and Buddhistical litera- ture generally in PahjWita Sinhalese translations, conimen- taries, and glosses. Translation of Mahdvansa by Tumour (now being continued by Mndaliyar Wijesirighe) throws a flood of light on the history oi Ceylon and India, while researches of Gogerly and writings of Spence Hardy and others have done equal service in revealing the true nature of the atheistical system of philosophy called Buddhism. Goldschmidt and Miiller have more recently,^ by examining and interpreting rock inscriptions, illustt;ated the history of the Sinhalese language, though not much new matter has been added by their researches to the history of the country and people. Works on medicine and science, generally in Sanskrit; and almost wholly derived from India. Three daily English newspapers [the daily and weekly (foreign and local) Observer having by iax the 238 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. largest circulation], with weekly editions, published, in Colombo, meet with fair, and increasing support; also a bi-weekly English journal in Colombo, and the weekly Government Gazette; a Jaffiia we,ekly paper; and several periodicals in Bnghsh, organs of churches, missions, &e. ; and a native press, Sinhalese and Tamil, with a few repre- sentatives in newspapers and periodicals. Among English periodicals the Tropical Agriculturist (monthly), begun in June', 1881, has an extending circulation throughout the tropics, and is regarded even among London publishers as a credit to Ceylon ; a weekly Ceylon Literary Register was begun as supplement to Obserrer in August, 1886. An interesting collection of palm-leaf MSS. exists in the librai-y of the Colombo museum. EDUCATION. Through the agency of a Government Department of Public Instruction and a grant-in-aid system, chiefly availed of by the various missionary societies, about 120,000 chQdren, or 1 in 24 of the population, are receiving in- struction in English and the vernaculars. Private schools not connected with missionaries or religious bodies, are few and ill- supported. A knowledge of vernacular reading and writing, generally very imperfect, is communicated in some of the Buddhist temple "pansalas" and private native schools. A large proportion of the population can sign their names'who can do little more. Education in missionary schools is, of course, strictly Christian. In Government schools the custom is, where no objection is offered, to read the Bible during the first hour; Attend- ance during that hour not compulsory, but pupils seldom or never absent themselves. Cost of Government Edu- cational Department (educating some 28,000 pupils), E300,000 per annum (besides grants-in-aid, which amount to R200,000 for 60,000 pupils), of which R28,000 is returned in the shape of fees, sales of books, &c. T'otal outlay on education, public and private, is about R700,000 (£70,000), against R7,000,000 (£700,000) supposed to be spent by the population on intoxicating drinks. Science is now prac- tically taught in the principal educational establishments in the chief towns, and technical training in> agriculture and useful trades is gradually being added. Government grants, aggregating E3,000 per annum, are distributed Ceylon : Summary of Information, 289 among eighteen public libraries. The census gives about 8,000 teachers, &c., male and female, in Ceylon. OCCUPATIONS. Vast majority of inhabitants engaged in agriculture : 650,000 in census. Settled inhabitants (Sinhalese and Tamil) cultivate chiefly rice and other grain, with coconuts, palmyras, arecas, other palms, fruit trees and vegetables ; while 250,000 Tamil coolies (native bom and immigrants), superintended by Europeans, grow on plantations, chiefly tea, with the old staple coffee, to which have, of late years, been added cinchona, Liberian coffee, cacao, rubber, cardamoms, croton-oil seeds, pepper, and other new pro- ducts. Eice too, and tea, bark, and coffee from plantations, are conveyed mainly by Sinhalese " bullock bandy men " or carters, where railway communication does not serve. [There are about 14,000 libensed carts, mainly employed in plantation traffic, against half that number in 1850 ; this is exclusive of unlicensed carts employed not only by natives but by estate owners now in very, considerable numbers. Bullocks in size aud strength, and carts in capacity, greatly improved.] Fisheries (12,000 boats and canoes) and smaU class of shipping (vessels belonging to Ceylon, number 600; tonnage 25,000) employ a good many; 25,000 fishermen and boatmen in census — below the mark. The timber trade gives employment in felling, sawing, rafting, or carting, to very many. Local manufacturing industry, advancing : carpentry, weaving, coir- matting, oU-making, &a There were 40,000 boiitique- keepers and traders returned in census ; 14,000 carpenters ; 5,000 masons; 18,000 dhobies; 16,000 coir-workers; 15,000 mat and basket makers ; 6,000 tailors and seam- stresses ; 3,500 cotton and cloth spinners and weavers ; 600 lace makers; 500 printers and bookbinders; 5,000 bakers ; 3,300 toddy drawers ; • 2,200 sawyers ; 1,500 plumbago diggers; 6,500 jewellers; 1,200 gem diggers; 4,500 blacksmiths; 2,000 barbers ; 3,000 horsekeepers ; 43,000 domestic servants. [There are about 1,000 small looms, and 2,000 wooden or stone oil presses, or " ohekkus," scattered over Ceylon ; while steam and other machinery is extensively in use for preparing tea, coffee, and coir, expressing oil, sawing timber, &c. ; with perhaps 20 290 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. 200 engines, aggregating fully 3,000 h. p,, and 25,000 em- ployes. About 100,000 coffee, oil, and plumbago casks, and now many thousands of tea boxes made, besides those imported and exported each year; and many thousands of women and children, chiefly Sinhalese, find remunerative employment in "coffee picking," and pre- paring cinnamon and cinchona bark, coir, and coconut oil, and plumbago, and to some extent bulking and packing tea, at Colombo stores.] The planting enterprize gives employment to large numbers of mechanics, native car- penters, and masons, who also find occupation on roads and bridges, water, harbour, irrigation, and railway exten- sion works. Very serviceable bricks and tiles made in the island ; and 5,000 Moormen (Arab descendants off North- west coast) have special sptitude as masons. Potteries for common earthenware utensils, common. Numerous distilleries, with simple apparatus for manufacture of arrack, and a few to obtain essential oils of cinnamon, citronella, and lemon-grass. Plumbago mining is in- creasing, giving employment in digging, carting, prepara- tion and shipment to several thousands; and gem- searching (250 gem and 25 iron mines) employs a number (1,200) of not over-peaceable persons. Pearl fisheries uncertain — foreign divers (from coast off India) chiefly employed : good fisheries expected off North-west coast next few years. Chan!k fishery steady, but not very profitable. CULTIVATION. Grain :—'Riee, 660,000 acres. Kurakkan, varieties of millet (known locally as "dry grain"), Indian corn, &c., with koUu and other legumes, 150,000. Total Grain 810,000. PaZms:— Coconuts : native "topes," 450,000; European plantations, 50,000;= 500 ,000 total coconuts. Palmyras, arecanuts, kitul, &c., 150,000. Total Palms, 650,000. Cofee, Tea, Cinchona, Cocoa (properly Cacao) : — European plantations (2,000 properties with 1,500 separate estates cultivated, or over 1,600, if divisions of large estates counted, cleared and in all stages of cultivation, excluding abandoned fields and making allowance for area covered by new products), coffee, 120,000 acres ; native holdings, 10,000. Total cofee, 130,000. Cinchona, 35,000 acres ; cocoa or cacao, 12,500 acres ; tea, 175,000 acres ; Ceylon : Summary of Information. 291 Liberian coffee (European or native), 2,000 acres ; carda- moms (European and native), 7,000 acres ; African palm nuts, rubber, &c., 500; grand total of plantation culture, tea, coffee, and new products, 860,000 acres. Tea is cultivated from nearly sea-level to over 6,000 feet. [Coffee (Aribica) was cultivated from elevation of 1,500 to 5,000 feet : medium, best. Beserve of forest and chena in con- nection with plantations, 300,000 ; Government hill forest, suitable for coffee, tea, cinchona, &c.,^ perhaps ^quarter of a million acres, and at least four times that extent of low lands suited for tea and cacao, and for coconut, grain, and garden cultivation.] Tobacco, 25,000 acres ; cottrai, 400 acres ; sugar, aromatic grasses, aloes, &c., 5,500 ; garden vegetables : onions, chillies, brinjals, potatoes, and yams, cabbages, greens, pineapples, pumpins, cucumbers, &c., 100,000 acres. Plantain, jak, mango, breadfruit, orange, lime, guava, 'cadju, lovi-lovi, goraka, bilimbi, and other orchard cultivation, 120,000. Cinnamon, 30,000. Other spices — nutmeg, pepper, &ci, 10,000 acres. Culti- vated grass land, 15,000. Introduced timber trees, 500. Total cultivation, about 1,900,000 acres; or at most 2 millions — or about l-6th of area. Sugar cultivation a failure, probably from excessive moisture of cHmate, in western, southern, and central provinces ; . a little still grown and manufactured at BadUegama, near Galle. Plan- tam (or banana) cultivation for fibre tried unsuccessfully near Matara. Natural pastpbage — including patanas — 1,000,000 in and around mountain zone ; in island generally, 2 or 3 million acres probably; that on hills coarse and indifferent, and (up to 4,000 feet) infested by land leeches ; in low country better, but great proportion in unhealthy parts. [Note. — ^Arabian coffee used to grow around native huts, and bore scattered berries at the sea-level ; and there were two or three plantations so low down as only 600 feet above the level of the sea, with a good many at an eleva- tion of 1,000. There are also plantations at an altitude of 5,000 feet and higher. These, if situated on detached hills', on' sunny slopes, or on ranges, such as -the Uva, facing a hot, low country, do well. But the coffee leaf fungus has put a stop to all interest in coffee extension, or even in its cultivation, save in such favouritie districts as those of Uva, parts of Dikoya and Dimbula, and detached planta- 292 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. tions in other districts. The coconut flourishes chiefly at the sea-level and on the coast ; also up river valleys with a few gardens in central province. Rice runs up to where Arabian cbfi^ee used to begin, at 2,000 feet altitude. We have now tea cultivation from sea-level to over 6,000 feet, 80 covering all elevations, with cinchonas flourishing from 1,700 to over 7,000 feet elevation, and cacao or chocolate plant in sheltered rich valleys and districts up to about 2,000 feet] VALUE OF PLANTATION PBOPERTIT, AND EFFECTS OP EUROPEAN CAPITAL AND ENTERPRIZE. The value of cultivated cofi^ee (£2,000,000), tea (£4,250,000), cinchona (£1,400,000), cacao (£300,000), cardamoms, other products (£600,00Q), &c., grass land ou plantations all round, may be taken at about 10 ^Iillions sterling. Add £500,000 for 100,000 acres reserve forest at £5 an acre, and 200,000 acres more of reserve belong- ing to plantations in private hands, in grass (natural), chena, or abandoned land, paru of which may be utihzed for liew products by degrees, worth £1 per acre ; and we get about 11 millions for old and new products plantation- land, chiefly in the hands of Europeans. Including build- ings, machinery, carts, cattle, &c., the value is certainly not under the 12 millions. The value of coconut palm cultivation in the island we put at about the same sum, or 12^ millions sterling. Of other palms and fruit trees, at nearly 6 millions. Of cinnamon, £760,000. Other spices, £500,000. Cotton, tobacco, vegetables, and other garden produce, at li million. Of rice and other grain nearly 6 millions. Making a total value of ctiltivated land of About 85 million pounds sterling. The value of forest- land, chena, ana pasturage, in the hands of low-country natives, will make a considerable addition. The amount of British capital diffused by the planting enterprize since 1837 has been enormous, and the Sinhalese carpenters and other artizans, cart contractors, and cattle owners, with the Tamil rice dealers and coolie labourers, have profited largely by it — a profit in which the European capitalists and planters have only in a scanty measure participated. It is calculated that, reckon- ing the pioneers, not more than 10 per cent, of the Euro- Ceylon : Summary of Informiition. 29$ pean planters dtiring the fifty years can. ue said to Itave bettered themselves in Ceylon. 48,000 deeds weria regis- tered and 27 million rupees seonred on mortgages iii 1878, at the height of coffee planting prosperity. Bplerf* did roads have heen op«ned and fine bridges erected over impassable rivers, and popiflons and thriving toWnsatid villages have sprang np in the planting districts, vrhete 40 to 50 years ago all was interminable jangle. 7he pati!^ in the towns are rapidly adopting European habttd^ aixa many send their children to England for education or to take rank as barristers, physicians, and clergymen. I^ improvement has spread to the urban masses too : witness the declaration of the Bev. B. S: Hardy, a missionary of 40 years' experience: — ^" The contrast between one of their homes now and' in the times I ckn remember is nearly as great as between a grimed native chatty (earthern pot) and a bright English tea kettle." Crime has, how ever,- kept pace with the spread of health, and what; is usually termed "civilization." Although the Sinhalese, on the authority of one of their own number (the late Mt. James Al wis), possess "not even a tincture of soldiership," they are prone to crimes of revenge and violence. In this respect the "low country Sinhalese," although most of them profess a religion which absolutely forbids the taking of life, hold a " bad pre-eminence ; " the Tamils ranking second, and the Eandyan Sizihalese third. BBTOHNS or OBOF, from lice and grain lands, generally range from 6 to 30 bushels per acre, the average for rice being, about 20 bushels in the husks, or 10 bushels clean. [The Govern- ment returns give averages of und^r 10 bu^els for rice, and a fraction over 7 bushels for " dry grain ;"'ja both cases unhusked grain. But these low averages arise from the defective mode ill which the accounts are made up. An acre is about " 2J bushels sowing extent" — ^the average return 20 bushels ; in favourable positions twice that quantity.] Coconuts, 1,500 to 3,200 nuts per acre, per annum, at 80 trees to acre. Tea in Ceylon has yielded on Mariawatte and one or two other favoured plantations over 1,0001b. made tea per ^re for several years; oi^. some more favoured plots over BOOib ; the average so fat 294 Ceylon in the JuiUee Year. ^s ftboat 40dlb. ; on old poor land not more than SQOlb. can be expected, pinohona trees have given as much as 121b. marketable bfurk at six years old in Ceylon, an acre of red bark trees (1:578) gave 12,0601b. after five years. Coffee on plantations, ranges from 1 cwt. to 8 cwt. ; the average (previous to the appearance of a coffee leaf fangus, MemUeia va»tatrix, in 1869) a little over 6 cwt. ; for native gardeiis, 5 : in both cases' clean coffee. Of recent years, the average has been reduced to less than 2 or 3 cwt. Cinnamon gives on an average about 801b. per acre. Lands fully planted and cultivated yield up to 125 and ISplb.; neglected and swampy lands not more than 40. A good deai of " jungle spice," cut from the forests, enters into the exports. Coffee {eoffea aribica) until the last few years was regarded as almost the only really paying culti- vation in which Europeans could engage, but the persistent attacks of leaf fungus forced attention to other articles, and the prospects of " new products," chiefly of tea (now regarded AEI ihe planter's staple), cinchona, and cacao now seem good. Ther6 are a feW remunerative coconut estates belonging to Europeans, bat Europeans cannot success- fully compete, with natives in this pursuit. The tree is said to love the sound of the human voice, the obvious meaning of which is that it flourishes best where beet supplied with fertilizing matter and otherwise tended ; this cultivation has vastly extended through the wealth acquired by natives from introduced European capital during the last twenty to thirty years. The once famous cinnamon of Ceylon, though still the finest grown, seldom yields more than a minimum of profit to the cultivator. Grain cultivation cannot, even at the occasional high prices which prevail, offer any inducement to European enterprize, and the natives persevere in the pursuit mainly for the reasons thus stated by>the experienced and intelli- gent servant of Grovemment who so long administered the Western. Province, Sir C. P. Layard: — "You are right in your conclusion that the cultivation of paddy is the least profitable pursuit to which a native can apply himself. It is persevered in from habit, and because the value of time and labour never enters into his calculation. Besides this, agriculture is, in the opinion of a Sinhalese, the' most honourable of callings. I do not think that the average yield of our fields is as low as 6^ bushels to the Ceylon : Summary bf InformMtion. 295 acre — twenty js nearer the mark ; but all arable lands are not cultivated at once, or evep in the same year, and the estimates of a season's sowing often include crops aban- doned immediately after the seed has been sown, either on account of drought or flood,, The uncertain climate of the maritime districts and a poor soil are both causes of the comparative smallness of our returns. In India, i.e., both in Bengal and the grain-producing districts of the Madras Presidency, they have extensive tracts of alluvial lauds on the banks of their rivers, the like of which, even on a small scale, cannot be found her&'-' This has lately been disputed by Mr. Elliot, CCS., but he has only proved that rice growingislargelyprofitable ia such favoured districts as Matara, Batticaloa, and some parts of the other provinces with good soil and special irrigational advantages ; there are large areas where fruit, leaf, 'and bark-growing is and will be much more profitable than rice to the natives. Of course all the grain grown in the island is consumed within its limits, besides very large imports for the urban and coolie population. Of the pro- duce of the coconut tree, by far the larger proportion is also consumed ia the island. Taking the annual value of the oil, nuts, arrack, toddy, coir, &c., at 2^ millions sterling, nearly one-third is exported/ the people con- suming the remaining two-thirds, chiefly in the shape of nuts for food, with a good deal of arrack, toddy, oil, coir, &c. Of the produce of other palms the exports amount to about JE120,000. Practically, the whole of the cinna- mon grown is exported. Of the tea and coffee produced, the local consumption may be taken at 2^ per cent., or about 300,0001b. and 5,000 cwt., representing a value of about half a nullion of rupees against 20 to 30 millions of rupees' worth exported. Of the produce of the areca and palmyra palms (arecanuts, used for the almost uni- versal Indian and Ceylon masticatory, with palmyi-a timber and coarse sugaj), while much is consumed in the island, a good proportion is exported. But for the one important mineral plumbago (of which 212,000 cwt: were sent away in 1884, valued at over a million of rupees) the whole export trade of Ceylon might still be described as the produce mainly of the tea and coffee and cinchona shrubs, with the products of thnee pabns, and in a sub- sidiary degree of the cinnamon, and now of cacao and a 296 Ceylon in the Jubilee Yeflr, little Liberian coffee. The statement that. Oeylpa-.at gm time gr^w grain enongh to feed a popolatidn pf & (much more 12) millions is very donbtfdl. Some of the great tank? appear neyer to have been completed* having been com- menced by particular monarchs' chiefly for .their own glorification. Much more is to be hoped for from ^9 irrigation works recently, constructed or restored by. the , Ceylon Government. At present Ceylon grows tka an4 COCONUTS mainly (with coffee, cinchonas, cacao, cardamoms, and other secondary products, besides its. grain and Jriut culture), and gets much grain, cattle, cloth, specie, a^i. nearly all she wants in ezchangew. CBOWN lUAMD OBANTED AND S0U>, since 1833, about 1,300,000 acres, yielding a revenue of about £2,100,000. Average price, 1833 to 1844, 10s. 8d ; 1844 to 1883, 37s. dd.. Upset price, now £1; highest price realized nearly 250 rupees (£25) for hill forest land, — generally ranges ,£t to £5'for Jorest land, and £400 per a6re occasionally for building lots near Colombo. Half of lands sold, hill forest suited for coffee, cinchona, tea, (&c. ; half for grain, coconuts, Liberian coffee, cacao, tea, plan- tains, &c. Full title — no land-tax (only 5 per cent, on lands and houses within liinitg of toums for pohce purposes ; in Colombo 3 per cent, for lighting and 2 per cent-, just being levied for water) ; tithes (rent), levied on grain only, 10 per cent, of produce (a few cases of 20 to 25) against 50 per cent. tax. often in India. There are insuperable objections^ on the part of thoi natives inainly, to a l^d- tax, which would f^Jl on coconut, fruit, and root culture, now free, but a liberal commntaiion system is, being applied to the grain tithes, which were exacted by the n»tr?e rulers in addition to ojiher taxes, all of whiich, except the rice-' tax, the British Government ^bai^doned. T)iose vrbP ^^ oat against food and salt taxes in oriental oounti^eB imay as well be remindied that, except through, jiraia, salty and cotton cloth, the vast majority of the natives of QeyloQ would almost entirely escape contributing .iiO>the expendir ture. necessary for the, support of civil goy«Qimei)t, military and policy proteetion, ^nd meaiiif!.,of ciaiippunip^ tion. ^TOPK. Betums very defeetive. .Pei:bap9, , tibtere; aase 6,0uQ Ceylon : Summary of Information. 297 horses, 1,100,000 cattle (including buffaloes), 70,000 sheep, 100,000 goats, and 50,000 swine in Ceylon, with 1,000 asses and 200 mules. Ceylon imports (chiefly from India, with some from Australia) nearly all its horses, most of its draught cattle, and much cattle, sheep, goats, and poultry for food, to a total value of over a million rupees per annum. Two-fifths of the grain consumed (about 13 millions of bushels in all) is also imported. Prices, always high in Ceylon, have risen steadily, and the tendency is upwards, though a little checked by the planting depres- sion in 1880-6. So ■with the wages of servants and labourers. Butcher-meat, especially up country, is likely to become scarcer and dearer in consequence of cattle establishments having been abolished on a large propor- tion of estates as not profitable. Artificial manures are found to cost less, generally, than the dung of cattle fed on cultivated grasses and expensive grain and oil-cakes. COMMERCE. Imports, 50 millions of rupees. Exports, 40 millions : total value of commerce, 90 millions, nominally 9 million pounds sterling ; or, excluding specie, 80 millions. [The coasting trade is also considerable.] Staple imports : — Eice, &c., 5-J million bushels, 1 J million sterhng ; cotton goods, about £600,000; live stock, ^6100,000; salt fish, 100,000 ; other food requisites, £200,000 ; wearing ap- pairel, &c., £110,000; machinery, £80.000; liquorn, £120,000 ; manures, £50,000 ; coal, 200,000 tons. Staple exports: — Coffee, 200,000 to 250,000 cwt. ; 1 to 1^ million sterling ; tea, 10 million lb., £600,000 (likely to rise rapidly) ; cacao, 20,000 cwt., £80,000 ; cardamoms, 250,000 lb., £30,000; coconut oil, 4^ million gallons, £450,000; cinnamon, 2^ million lb., £120,000; coir, 100,000 cwts., £60,000; plumbago, 250,000 cwt., £200,000; ebony, 10,000 cwt, £7,000; other kinds of timber, £20,000; cinchona bark, 15. million lb., £500,000. Totnl exports from tea, coffee, cintliona, and cacao plantations, £:!,(X10, 000; from coconut palm, £800,000 ; other palms, £l()0,t!00 ; cinnamon and all spices, £200,000 ; tobacco, £100,000 ; timber, £25,000; plumbago, £100,000. lu 1887 Ceylwi exported only 84,000 cwt. of coffee, valued at t'10(i,(K>0 : total value of trade, including the then valuable arti^-lri n<' 298 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year.' cinnfunoo, only £900,000 against 9 millions now. In 1838 the valu^' of Ceylon export^ was only £130,000 ; imports, £320,000 ; total £450,000. So that the increase of trade in little more than fifty years has been nearly 20- fold. Tonnage outwards and inwards nearly 4 millions now, against less than 100,000 tons in 1825. BE VENUE. Average, R13.000,000 per annum (R8,000,000 from taxes and R5,000,000 land" sales, railway, and other receipts). This includes Bl. 000,000 direct taxation on all males (save Governor, military, and Buddhist priest) between 18 and 55, for thoroughfares ; persons paying direct taxes number 615^000. ' Add El,500,000 raised by road committees, municipalities, local boards, and village councils, and B100,000 under coolie medical ordinance from planters, making the total of about B15,000,000. Customs and railways yield nearly one-half of the regular revenue ; excise on tbddy (fermented juice of coconut tree) and arrack (spirit distilled from it) one-eighth. Gr^n tithes, land sales, salt monopoly^ tolls, and stamps are the other great' sources of revenue. Pearl fishery occasionally productive, but very uncertain ; yielded alto- gether over 1 million sterling to British ; greatest amount, £140,000 in 1798. Taxation not heavy— less than R8 (6s.) per head; but mass of ^people poor, and, undeif ancient village regulations, bestow labour on upkeep of irrigation tanks and channels. The revenue has doubled in 25 years, trebled in 80 years, and nearly quadrupled, in 40 years, although cinnamon monopoly, fish- tax, &c., abandoned, and customs duties equalized and moderated. The maximum of revenue owing to heavy land sales and planting prosperity was attained in 1^77, at £1,700,000 ; it fell in 1882 with planting depression to £1,206,000 ; but has since risen steadily, and is expected ere, long to average £1,400,000. 'EXPBNDITUBE. Civil, judicial, public instruction, medical, police, prisons establishments, and services, B6,600,000 ; pensions, B650,000; military, contribution, B600,000; roads and buildingB, B2,000,'d0(). Bailway services, w'th interest on Ceylon : Summary of Information. 299 loans (against large income), E2,100,000. Interest on breakwater and waterworks loans, E600,000. Irrigation works, E400,000, besides special advances. Minor items, such as conveyance of mails, immigration, &c. What the colony mainly requires is a liberal and judicious expenditure on MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. A line of railway 74^ miles long between Colombo (chief shipping port) and Kandy (capital of the central or planting province) was opened in August, 1867 ; an exten- sion to Nawalapitiya from Peradeniya, 17 miles, in December, 1874 : an extension from Kandy to Matale, 17^ miles, opened on 4th October, 1880. Besides the above, a seaside line has been constructed from Colombo to Kalutara, 27J miles, opened in September, 1879 ; and a few miles of line to serve .the breakwater. And on 3rd August, 1880, the first sod was turned of an extension from Nawalapitiya for 41^ miles to Nanuoya, within 4 miles of the Sanatarium, Nuwara Eliya, and opened on 20th May, 1885. [From Nanuoya the line is intended to be carried 25^ miles farther to Haputale, and thence to BaduUa.] Altogether, about 183 miles of railway, all on the 5^ feet gauge, have now been opened. The railway at Kadugannawa reaches 1,700 feet sea-level; at Kandy, j.,600 feet; Peradeniya, 1,512; Matale, 1,200 feet; Nawalapitiya, 1,913; Hatton, 4,168; Nanuoya, 5,292 feet ; the Moragalla tunnel at Kadugannawa is 365 yards long ; the Poolbank tunnel, 614 yards ; Talawakelle tunnel is 265 yards ; sharpest curve 5 chains ; ruling gradient, Kadugannawa incline, 1 to 45 (12 miles long), on Nanuoya extension, heaviest gradient 1 to 44. Other lines are contemplated to connect the main line with Kurunegala and Negombo and even Chilaw, and to extend from Kalutara to Galle; from Kalutara to Eakawana; and from Kurunegala or Matale with Jaffna ; from Colombo to Kotte ; and a city line in Colombo for the northern suburb of Mattakuliya, unless city tramways are adopted. A line taking in Kotte and other suburbs of Colombo would, it is believed, pay well. At present, two coaches run daily from Kalutara to Galle, and vice versa, ; a coach runs tri- weekly (shortly to become daily) between Colombo and 300 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Batnapura, also from Colombo to Yatiyantota, and from Batnapara to I^elmadnUa; and mail-carts or coaches exist between Colombo and Negombo ; 'Galle and Matarbi ;'. also a coach or mail-cart from Nannoya to Nuwara Eliya ; from Mat.aie to Dambnla, and thence a bullock coach to Jaffiia. In three days, a visitor to Colombo might easily ran np via Eandy to Nuwara EUya, passing through the finest of mountain scenery, and return; two days would suffice to pay a .visit' from Colombo to Nuwara Eliya and the middle planting region ; while a run to Kandy and back, with a sight of the beautiful and grand scenery in view on and 'from the railway incline, can be accomplished in one day. Boads: — Metalled, 1,850 miles; gravelled, 7.90; nngravelled, 740= total miles of road, 2,900, or one. mile of ro&d for every nine square miles of extent in the island; ipkeep of., roads, canals, public buildings, and irrigation works, total expenditure of Public Works De- partment, £200,000; road pioneer corps number 500, with several trained working elephants. Canals navigable for boats, 1^ miles, besides portions of rivers and back- waters. [In addition to expenditure from general revenue, roads and canals are made and kept up by thoroughfares' tax, equivalent of six days' labour per annum from each adult male. Groups of estates not intersected by thorough- fares can get cart-roads on paying half the cost. Govern- ment giving other moiety. In 1807 there were no carriage roads beyond, the limits of the principal town in the maritime provinces; and none in the Kandyan country until 1820, the era in which Sir Edward Barnes' great road-making operations commenced, opening up the paci- fied Kandyan countty to enterprise, and so gendering railways necessary and possible.] Besides the P. & 0. Company's and Messageries steamers connecting Colombo, the mail-port, with India, China, Australia, &c., there are the Austro-Hungarian Lloyds and the Norddeutscher Lloyds steamers ; also the British India Steam Navigation Company maintain a regular communication (weekly) be- tween Colombo, Bombay, Calcutta, ' and intermediate ports. This company has also a fortnightly line between London, Colombo, Ma'dras, and Calcutta, via the Suez Canal ; and other similar lines, via the Suez Canal, ' are worked by the Star, the Clan, Holt's, the Glen,, Anchor, the Ducal, the City, Bird, and other steam companies. Ceylon : Summary of Information. 301 PUBLIC DEBT OF CEYLON. The cost of the Colombo and Kandy Kailway (jE1,740,000) was provided for by a special tax on coffee, and partly out of general revenue, and afterwards out of the receipts and profits of the line, amounting to from 8 to 10 per cent, on capital. The Kandy, Nawalapitiya and Seaside railways are now the free property of the colony. It may be said that, besides the network of splendid roads, " coffee" has given the colony 118 miles of first-class railway, worth 2-|- millions sterling, and yielding about £120,000 per annum clear income. For the Matale railway a debt of £275,000 has been increased, and another of one million sterling in debentures for the first 41-|- miles of the Dimbula-TJva rail- way extension, and another half million will b*. required to complete to Haputale. For the Colombo Harbour Works about £600,000 in all have bpen expended, of which £226,000 are to be given by the Public Loan Commis- sioners at 8^ per cent, for 85 years, and the balance, £860,000, at 4 or 5 per cent, for interest and sinking fund. £850,000 is also now estimated for the Colombo Water- works. So that, when the works in hand are complete, the debt of the colony for general and municipal purposes will be about 2 J million pounds sterling, with an annual charge for interest and sinking fund of about £135,000. The annual railway, harbour, and water supply receipts will then, however, not be less than £860,000 per annum, and, deducting working expenses, should yield sufficient profit to cover more than the annual claims, only the Dimbula Kailway extensions will not pay properly until the new Uva traffic is brought on the existing lines. FOEM OF ADinNISTRATION : CENTRAL AND MUNICIPAL. (iovernor, aided oy Executive and Legislative Councils ; the power of making laws being vested in the latter con- currently (as is the case with Crown Colonies generally) with the legislative power of the Crown, which exercises that power by Orders in Council. Executive Council con- sists of five of the principal officers:; of Government, pre- sided over by the Governor, who being personally respon- sible to the Home Government, can consult, but is not bound to follow the advice of, the Executive Councillors. All appointments to, or promotions iii, the Civil Service 302 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. with salaries over B9,000 per annum, vest-in the Secretary .of State,' bdt practically all appointments, except to. the higher offices, are left to the Governor. For writerships in the^GivU Service fonr gentlemen are named for each vacancy by the Secretary of State or the Governor, and the candidate who receives the greatest number of marks is appointed. With salaries much more daoderate in Ceylon than in India, we have a covenanted Civil Service nnmbering about 80 members for about three millions of inhabitants, instead of less than a dozen civilians with native assistants for a similar population in India. The Legislative Council is composed of the members of the £jtecutive, fonr other principal officers of the Government, and six unofficial members selected ~^by the Governor with reference to as fair a representation as possible of the various. classes, and interests — (at present representatives include Sinhalese, Tamil, and Burgher members ; one -European for planters, one for merchants, and one for general European interests) — sixteen in all, six, however, forming a quorum : and, an Order of the Queen in Council declared the proceedings of the Legislature valid, though all unofficial seats be vacant The Governor can com- mand tSie votes of all official members except on points where religious principles are affected. Governor presides, with casting vote and ultimate power of veto. AU ordi- nances ore sent for the final approval of her Majesty, but only in rare cases is the operation of a law suspended pending that approval. Unofficial members can, after permission obtained, introduce drafts of ordinances where votes of moijey ai^e not concerned." Eight Provinces, ad- ministered by Government Agents and their Assistants (with native revenue and police headmen, such as Bate- mahatmayas, Mudaliyars, Muhandirams, Eoralas.Yidaoas, &c*), all under strict supervision of ,Gpvemment ; central- ization being the ruling principle, perhaps to an injurious extent. By means of Native Village Councils, Munici- palities in the three chief towns (Colombo, Gtdle, and Kaiidy), and Local Boards in nine towns of secondary im- portance (ranging from 1,800 to 10,000 in population), the principles of self-government are being of recent years to a considerable extent diffused, As yet, however, the bulk of the natives appreci^ite the incidence of municipal taxation more than the benefits confeited. by sanitary and Ceylon : Summary of Information. 303 other improvements. The Colombo Municipality has introduced gas, and (by order of Government) are spend- ing over E3, 500,000 on a water supply, the works for which are almost completed ; Kandy and Galle have already made provision for water supply.' LAWS. The Eoman-Dutoh law is the common law of the land, and applicable in all cases not otherwise specially provided for by local enactments.* It obtains in cases of marriage, inheritance, succession, or contracts. The law as to matrimonial rights has been modified by Ordinance 15 of 1876, by abolishing community of goods as a consequence of marriage, and by prescribing the order of succession in cases of intestacy. The law of England, however, is of force (by virtue of the Ordinance No. 5 of 1852) in all maritime matters, and in respect of bills of exchange, promissory notes, and cheques. The law of England was further introduced by Ordinance 22 of 1866, in respect of Partnerships, Joint Stock Companies, Corporations, Banks and Banking, Principals and Agents, Carriers by Land, and Life and Fire Insurances. Eoman-Dutch law, how- ever, absurdly enough, prevails as to Contracts and'Torts (damages). Property can be willed away, but intestate estates are divided according to the principles of Eoman- Dutch law, controlled by Ordinance 15 of 1876. Local ordinances are subject to approval of sovereign, but may be brought into force at once. .They cease to be operative, however, if not confirmed within three years. The Kandyans are subject to their own laws, and when these are silent the Eoman-Dutch law governs them. In 1859 their marriage laws were greatly altered, and polyandry and polygamy, formerly sanctioned, were then expressly prohibited ; but this salutary prohibition had afterwards to be in some degree relaxed, the legislation being in ad- vance of the intelligence and condition of the people. Europeans and European descendants are now exempted from the operation of the Kandyan law as respects inheri- tance, and made subject to the Eoman-Dutch law, by which a widow gets a just moiety of her husband's estate (excepting when a diflFerent provision is made by ante- • A CIyU Code is in course of preparation. 8U4 Gei/lon in the Jubilee Year. nnptial Contract or by joint 'Vill, and the children the other moiety in equal shares. The Muhammadans have a code of their own in matters of marriage and inheri- tance. The Tamils of the north and east have their code also — the Tesavallami. The criminal law of the island, known as the Eoman-Dutch law, was repealed by a Penal Code, which came into operation on let January, 1885, whereby the punitive jurisdiction of District Courts as regards imprisonment was raised to two years, and of Police Courts to six months. This has relieved the Supreme Court of a number of ,cases that used to be, sent there for trial.. The number of jurymen has been reduced to nine, and is to be further reduced to seven. The pro* cedure in the courts is regulated by the Criminal Procedure Code, whiph cam& into operation at the same time as the Penal Code. These codes are largely transcripts and .adaptations of the Indian Penal and Procedure Coded. The English law of evidence prevails i;n all the courts ; and a special ordinance provides that substantial juisticd shall not fail through want of adherence to legal techni- calities. Further codification of laws, so as to secure settlement of principles and avoidance of con^ct- and occasional uncertainty, desiderate'd (and is likely ere long to be carried), as well as a law of libel, which would recognize the functions and privileges of a ~ free press better than do the antiquated provisions of Boman-Dutch IawB« It is now proposed to substitute the English law of contracts and torts, and a civil code is ip course of pre- paration, a criminal code having already been introduced. ADMINISTBA.TION OF JUSTICE : CSDlE. The ordinary courts arie Supreme Court (Chief Judtioe' and two Puisne Judges), District Courts, -Coatts of Bequests, and Police Courts. The last have jurisdiotioa in all minor cases not punishable with more than £6 fine, six montits' imprisonment, and twenty lashes. Courts pf Bequeists ht/n jurisdiction in all eixil soita irhere th« matter in dispujte — ^landor money — dbeq sot exoeed £10 in value. District Courts iiave.unliotited ev^ jorisdio- tion in civil, matrimonial, te3tamenta^.^-«nd insolvent cases (aboat 10,000 suits decided annuaUyV and ttnminal jurisdiction in aU cases not punishaple' with more thau Ceylon : Summary of Information. 305 £20 fine, two years' imprisonment, and twenty-five l&sbes. The Supreme Court has only an appellate jurisdiction in civil cases and over the criminal decisions of the District and Police Courts, and an unlimited jurisdiction in criminal cases. The latter is exercised by a judge and nine jurymen, the verdict of the majority prevailing, except in murder cases, when two-thirds are necessary. The appointment, temporarily, of a Commissioner of Assize, to assist the Supreme Court judges in criminal sessions work, has been sanctioned. The Supreme Court and the District Courts of Colombo and Kandy are gene- rally filled by professional men. Occasionally these and all the other judicial offices are open to members of the civil service, or others appointed by the Governor or Secretary of State. There is no grand jury, its powers being exercised by the Attorney-General — assisted by the Solicitor-General (both being the recognized law officers of the Crown — who has a seat in the Executive Council, and is a member of the Government. All local ordinances are prepared by him — he advises the Government in all legal matters, and has the charge of Crown suits through- out the island, being assisted in his work by the Solicitor- General and local deputies ("Crown Counsel") for each circuit. An appeal lies of right to the Privy Council from all decisions, of the Supreme Court in cases above £500 : it may be allowed by grace in other cases. There are only two classes of lawyers in Ceylon — advocates and proctors admitted on examination. English and Irish barristers and Scotch advocates are entitled to plead as advocates. Notaries, who draw deeds but do not practise in the courts, are numerous (about 600), being appointed by the Governor with reference to the wants of districts. Many proctors hold warrants and act as notaries. The proportion of lawyers (about 340 advocates and proctors) to population is high, the people of Ceylon being exces- sively litigious, fi:actions of fruit-trees being sometimes the subjects of action. In crime, about 60,000 offences re- ported, and 90,000 persons apprehended annually; two- thirds usually acquitted : great proportion false cases. Summary convictions, 13,000 ; committals to gaol about 20,000, but one-third tax defaulters. About 2,500 con- victs. About 100 murders and manslaughters reported annually. Total cost of crime to colony estimated at 21 306 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. B806,000 per annum. A Penal Code was (1883) passed embodying all the criminal law. POLICE. Whether regularly organized and paid, as in towns, or rural system of unpaid headman called Yidanas, Iby no means perfect, the material to work on being far from good. Eeforms in the regular police have, however, been carried out, the total number under an Inspector-Greneral, with five Provincial Superiptendents, being now over 1,600, costing B600,000 per annum for the- department altogether. Some fifty of the constables are Europeans, besides all the superintending officers. The regular police is taught rifle drill, and in furnishing guards for prisons, escorts for treasure, &c., largely performs duties \rhich previously fbll to the military, mainly to the late Ceylon Eifles Corps. CURBENCT AND FINANCE. Eupees and cents of a rupee; the copper or bronze subsidiary coinage, including a five cent piece, cents, half cents, and quarter cents. The latter have now superseded the old Dutch coins — fanams, pice, chaUies, &c. — as well as English pence and their parts. The silver half rupee is taken at 60 cents, the quarter at' 26 cents, and the eighth (two anna piece of India) at 12-1 cents. The rupee for sometime has, averaged Is. 6d. sterling in value ; but during 1886 fell temporarily to Is. 4d. Gold coins are sold by the banks at about current rates of exchange. The note issue in Ceylon is now, since Ist January, 1886, a Government issue, and paper mon'ey to an average value of 4^ milUons of rupees is in circ^ation. There are in the island agencies of the New Oriental Bank Corporation; Chartered Mercantile Bank of India, London, and China ; the Bank of Madras; of the Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and Chuja ; of the National Bank of India ; of the Comptoir d'Escompte de Paris, and through mercantile houses of others. The clearing-house return's for Colombo show about E65,000,000 of cheques per annum. Besides these private bauking institutions, and some agencies of loan companies, therje are the Government Savings Bank (with deposits equal to about El,760,000, lodged by over Ceylon : Summary of Information. 307 18,000 depoaitoTs) and the Loan Board, each of which lends money on good house security at comparatively moderate interest. WEIGHTS AND ME&SUKES. British standard, to which local candies, leaguers, &c., are reduced. Coffee, our old staple produce, is usually sold locally by the bushel, from 4J to 5 bushels " parch- ment " going to 1 cwt. clean coffee. Tea and bark by lb. ; coconut oil by gallon or cwt., 12^ gallons going to cwt. For freight purposes, 10 chests tea usual size make-50 cubic feet, which go to ton ; 16 cwt. coffee in casks.TslS bags, go to a ton ; 17 cwt. coconut oil, 12 cwt. coit and cardamoms, 14 cwt. hides, 16 cwt. horns and pepper, 17 poonac or oil cakes, 800 lbs. cinnamon or cinchona.; measurement goods, 50 cubic feet to the ton. A maundrof tea seed or leaf about 84 lbs. ; bushel of rice, 63 lbs; i candy of copperah, 5001b. CUSTOMS DUTIES, port dues, pilotage, &c., are moderate, the leading prin- ciple in the customs tariff being 5 to 6^ per cent, on the value of imports, and the only export duties being ElOO for every elephant, and E5 per ton on plumbago in heu of Government royalty ; with moderate charges on tonnage, which now has the benefit of safe and commodious harbour accommodation at Colombo, by means of the fine break- water. Export levies of a fractional amount are also imposed on certain plantation products, for coolie medical aid purposes, 10 cents per cwt. on tea, coffee, and cocoa ; 20 cents on cinchona bark ; with 6 cents per chest of tea for harbour dues. COLOMBO HAEBOTJE WORKS. Begun in 1875 ; foundation laid by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, 8th Dec. ; Sir John Coode, Kt., Consulting Engineer ; John Kyle, M.LC.E., Eesident Executive Engi- neer: over £700,000 expended in all, and 4,211 feet of breakwater arm completed from starting point at shore end to pier-head with Ughthouse, besides extensive recla- mation work, forming safe, commodious harbour (with jetties), covering 250 acres, with from 26 to 40 feet of 308 Ceylon in the Jubilee, Year. water. An expenditure of £400,000 more would provide a northern arm, jetties, and harbour reclamation, at Mutwal. The harbour revenue sJready exceeds B450,000 per annum, and it could be made B600,000 for the complete works. A graving dock for imperial-naval as wdl as commercial purposes is the first great necessity TRAMWAYS IN COLOMBO are an anticipated city improvement, several lines bein^ projected and tendered for to the municipality by a respon- sible agency, COLOMBO WATEBWORKS were commenced in 1881-2, to supply the city (covering 9-} square mUes) with two million gallons of water daily, from a reservoir in the Labugama hiUs, thirty miles away. The contract for the hill and city (Maligahakanda) reser- voirs, and- for laying pipes, was given in from 1882 for Bl, 416, 500), the work to be done in three years by Messrs. Mitchell and Izard ; the consulting engineer being Mr. Bateman, of Westminster ; Mr. A. W. Burnett being chief resident engineer. The Iiabugama reservoir (of 176 acres, 69 feet maximum depth of water, to contain 1,873,000,000 gallons, 360 feet top water above sea level), and pipes thence, have been laid ; also about 144,000 yards of pipes in the city ; but the Muligahakanda reser- voir (to h6ld 9 million gallons) 100 feet top water above sea, proved a failure at its first and second trials. [Third and, doubtless, final trial.] The water supply is, however, being utilized independently from Labugama. POSTAGE. Ceylon enjoys rather better than tbe boon of .a " penny postage" for letters, the rate being 5 cents of a rupee, equal, at present, to about -|d., on each half ounce ; two cents postage for newspapers, besides post-cards ; but a fairly moderate rate for book, commercial packets, and parcel postage is a desideratum. External postage to many parts of the world moderate, although unifonnity is much required, the letter rate being SO cents to the Australian colonies, and 28 cents to the United Kingdom, while only 25 cents to the Continent of Europe. To India Ceylon : Summary of Information. 309 by Dak or B.I. steamers same as local rates. 123 post oifices in Ceylon. Total of letters through Ceylon post offices, over 15 millions per annum, or between five and six per head. Postal revenue, R265,000 ; Telegraph, E65,000 ; total, E330,000. Total expenditure, E445,000, for which the large coiTespondence, including heavy parcels, of the Government Departments is carried, and official telegrams delivered free. If all officials paid postage and telegrams, the Postal- Telegraph Department would shov a clear profit. TELEGEAPH KATES. The telegraph stations now open in Ceylon (24 in all) are : — Anuradhapura, 3rd class ; Badulla, 3rd ; Batticaloa, 3rd; Colombo, 1st; Dikoya, 3rd; Galle, 2nd; Gampola, 3rd ; Hatton, 3rd ; JafEna, 2nd ; Kalutara, 3rd ; Kandy, 2nd ; Kurunegala, 3rd ; Lunugala, 3rd ; Mannar, 3rd ; Matale, 3rd ; Nawalapitiya, 3rd ; Nuwara Eliya, 2nd (during season, January to June) and Brd ; Polgahawela, 3rd ; Triiicomalee, 3rd ; Talawakele, 3rd ; Mount Lavinia, 3rd; Moratuwa, 3rd; Nanuoya, 3rd. On and from the Ist February, 1887, the following new scale of charges was levied on inland telegrams : — 1. — There are three classes of telegrams — Urgent, Ordi- nary, and Deferred, and the following are the rates of charge for State and private telegrams between any two offices in Ceylon : — First eight words Each additional Class. or groups of three word or group figures. of three figures. B. Cts. E. Cts. Deferred 40 5 Ordinary 80 10 Urgent 1 60 20 EVERY-DAY T.\BLK OF TELEGRAPH RATES FOPv OKDINARY FOREIGN MESSAGES. From any Ceylon Statiun. To all countries in Europe, including Great Britain, r.c. except tli(^-e named below, via : uez 2-94 ,, ,, „ ,, leheran 2-94 „ Turkey 2-69 810 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. B.O. To Bassia, via Snez ^ 294 „ „ Teheran 269 „ „ „ Turkey and Odessa 269 „ Turkey „ Suez 2-91 „ ,f „ Turkey or Fao 212^ „ „ „ Tefaeran-Batoum 2-94 „ Aden and Ferim, via Bombay 2-06 „ Zanzibar, via Bombay-Aden'^ 4'87i „ Durban (Natal), via Bombay-Aden ., 6-66 ,r G. Colony, all places, via Bombay-Aden 5*69 „ Suez, via Suez 2"66 „ Hohgkong, via Madras 400 „ Japan, via Madras t ; 6*76 „ Amoy, Saddle Island, Shanghai, and Foochow, via Madras v 6-12^ „ Penang, via Madras 2*00 „ Malacca „ 2-44 „ Singapore „ 2'66 ,, Java „ 2-874 „ Port Darvin, S. andW. Australia, and Victoria, via Madras 544 „ New South Wales, via Madras 5*60 „ Queensland „ 5-94 „ New Zealand „ 6-26 ,, Tasmuiia „ 6-81 „ New York, via Suez 8-60 „ Canada „ 8-50 ,, Cuba (Gienferegos apd Havana) via Suez 6-81 „ Jamaica, via Suez , 7-66 „ Bio de Janeiro, via Suez-Lisbon 8-I24 Code words of more than ten letters are absolutely in- admissible in private foreign messages. A foreign message may consist of only two chargeable words, viz., office of destination and addressee's name. Ceylon Post Office Tkleobaphs — consist of 677 miles of line and 1,178 miles of wire. Manasr Gulf Cable SO miles. Telephone lines, for departmental use only, 7*46 miles. Total number of messages despatched in 1886 — 66,227, and total receipts for messages for the same period was B221,822. • In the case of State messages the charge is BS-SOper word,, via Bombay, t Speoial rate to Tsnihima, via Madras, B7-87i per word. Ceylon : Summary of Information. 314 DISEASES. The most formidable diseases of Ceylon are malarious fevers, malignant dysentery, and wasting diarrhoea, with " sore mouth." These are va,ried forms of " fevek " which occupies here the place of lung disease in England. Ele- phantiasis ol: " Cochin leg " is fever caused by inflamma- tion of the absorbent vessels and glands ; the remote cause of the inflammation is supposed to be a blood worm in the circulation. " Parangi," a loathsome congenital disease, aggravated by scarcity of nutritious food, prevails in some of the more remote portions of the island. It is said to resemble the " yaws " of the West Indies. Ceylon boils, signs (generally) of debility, are sometimes very trying, but rapidly disappear on a " change" to the cool mountain regions, or vice versa to seaside. liiver disease is often troublesome, but is far less prevalent than on the continent of India, and sunstroke exceedingly rare. Cholera and smallpox become occasionally epidemic, but Europeans very seldom fall victims to either. With facilities for occasional change, and the exercise of care and temperance, the chances for European life here are scarcely, if at all, inferior to what they are in England. The large majority of the planters enjoy robust health. Surveyors, road officers, and railway engineers, when compelled to traverse feverish regions and endure exposure to sun and ram, inctir much greater risk, as also planting pioneers in new districts. With all its moisture, the climate is favourable to the extension of consumptive lives. Here, as elsewhere in the tropics, life is practically passed in the open air, so that vitiated air in dwellings is seldom a source of disease. Children of European parents can generally remain in Ceylon till eight or nine years, and in the hill-country even longer, especially at Nuwera Eliya, with its average temperature of 58 degrees. Colombo is a specially healthy town, and its sanitation will be still more improved when the hill Water Supply is fully provided. Government Civil Medical Department and Hospitals cost over E700,000 per annum : about 200,000 cases treated in hospitals and dispensaries annually ; in hospitals alone, 24,000 cases with 3,000 deaths, rest cured or relieved ; there are 350 lunatics and 200 lepers in asylums. About 2,000 paupers noted by Government ; no Poov Laws ; 812 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. relief expended in town by Friend-in-need Societies voluntarily managed and supported; •with some aid from General Eevenne OBJECTS OF SPECIAL INTEEEST TO STEANGEES IN CEYLON. Colombo and Western Pkovince. — The Fort, Govern- ment ofBces, Sir Edward Barnes's statue, Tlie Grand Oriental Hotel. The Military Buildings, Galle Face Esplanade and drive. The Lake; the Law Courts at Hulftsdorp, with busts of the late C. A. Lorenz and Sir E. F. Morgan, Kt., (by a Ceylonese, E. G. Andriesz). Town Hall, with pictures of H.E.H. the Duke of Edin- burgh, Sir Hercules Eobinson, Sir William Gregory, the late C. A. Lorenz, m.l.c, and Sir C. P. Layard, k.c.m.g. Cinnamon Gardens ; Circular Walk Gardens, near which is situated the Colombo Mussum, with statue of Sir William Gregory, k.c.m.q. Hulftsdorp Mills, and other estabhshments for preparing coffee, cinchona bark, coconut oil, and coir. Cinnamon culture, peeling and baling at Maradana, or at Ekela and Eadirana, near Negombo. Plumbago stores in Brownrigg street. Cinnamon Gardens. WeUkada Jail, Lunatic and Leper Asylums. Koch Memorial Tower, Government CivU Hospital. Banyan tree, Hunupitiya. Eailway and Breakwater Works. Gov- ernment Factory and Elephant Shed. Colombo Ironworks. Gasworks. Malikaganda Waterworks Eeservoir. Alfred Model Farm towards Kotte. General Cemetery and Galle Face Cemetery, for memorial stones. Wolvendal Dutch Church, with memorials of Dutch Governors on walls and floors. St. Peter's Episcopal Church, with some interesting monuments on the walls. Eoman Catholic Cathedral at Eotaheaa. Colombo Eoyal College. St. Thomas' and Wesley College and other schools. Moor (Muhammadan) boys' school ; Mission Schools, Borella and KoUupitiya. Ancient tortoise^t Tanque Salgado, and large kumbuk tree near mouth of river, at Mutwal Crow Island ip mouth of river. . Quasi peat and breccia formations north side of mouth of river and canals. Bridge of Boats and Eailway Bridge across Kelani river. View'"of Adam's Peak from Colombo in early morning during N.E. monsoon. Boat trip on river to Kelani Buddhist Temple. Buddhist Ceylon: Summai-y of Information. 313 Temples at Kelani and Kotte. Eich palm, bambu and general vegetation on banks of river. Mission station and schools at Kotte, Gonawala, or Moratuwa. Tea, Liberian coffee, and cacao cultivation, at Kalutara, Han- wella or Polgahawela. Henaratgoda Government Ex- perimental Gardens. Trip to Ratnapura and scenes of Gem digging via side of Kelani river. Galle and Colombo Eoad. — Groves of coconut palms, ■with jak, breadfruit, and other trees along the whole route. Bentota resthouse with river and oyster fishing and sea-bathing. View of interior with mountain range from the road at Bernwala near the 82nd milestone. Kalutara river (Kaluganga or black river), bridge, and town. Eailway along seashore from Kalutara to Colombo. Panadnre outlet for extensive backwaters. Moratuwa, a prosperous village of carpenters. Mount Lavinia Board- ing House. Galle and Southebn Province. — All Saints' Church, Galle. Native bazaars and shops of jewellers and dealers in tortoisesheU and carved work ; Wakwella and Cinnamon Gardens near GaUe ; drives and view alongside Ginganga of the Haycock and Adam's Peak mountains ; Baddegama Mission Station ; Eichmond Hill Mission Station, and view. Cultivation of sugar and lemon grass, by Messrs. Winter & Sons, and others. View from Buona Vista, near Galle, and Mission Station. Tanks in Matara district. Temple ruins and salt formations, Hambantota. Temple ruins at Dewundara (" Dondra Head ") near Matara. Weligama Bay. Urubokka dam, Weligama, and rock figure of Kusta Eaja or the leper king. View of the Fort and Harbour of Galle from the site of the Eoman Catholic Chapel at Kaluwella. Colombo TO Kandt, Gampola, Nawalapitiya, Hatton, and Nanuoya ; ALSO to Matale. — Eicefields at Mahara and along line. Mahaoya (river) and vegetation. Kadugan- nawa pass, Dekanda valley, Allagala mountain and railway incline with Miyangala gallery, " Sensation Eock " and tunnels. View of Dekanda valley from Incline. View looking back from Sensation Eock. Dawson's Monument at Kadugannawa. Peradeniva satinwood bridge, and railway hon lattice bridge. View from rail- way of the Mahaweliganga and of Pussellawa mountains, beyond Gampola. View of Mahaweliganga and Kotmale 314 Ceylon in tlie Jubilee Year. on railway and at Pasbage, and of Adam's Peak, Dolos- bage, and Ambagamawa onwards to Nawalapitiya. View towards sea over Yakdesse and low country from Ambaga- muwa ; waterfalls and rocky glen before Hogs' back tunnels; the Wattawella valley; Dikoya valley and Adam's Peak ; Great Western mountain from Eottagalla valley ; view over Passellawa and distant mountains from St. Andrews ; St. Clair falls ; Devon falls ; the coup d'odl of upland and mountain forest and river scfinery fijom side of Great Western and Nanuoya. The Matale railway bridge over the Mahaweliganga, view of Hunasgirikanda and Etapola, views of the Matale valley, Aluwihara, Bala- kadnwa pass. Tea on Mariawatte ; coffee' in Dikoya or A^rapatana : -cinchona ia Dimbula ; caeao cultivation on Palakele and Wariyapola. KiNDY, Central Pbovincb. Uva. &c. — Sir Henry Ward's statue in Kandy. Dalada temple at Kandy. Audience Hall and Octagon. Prince of Wales' Fountain. New Jail Police Station and Kachcheri. Messrs. Walker & Co.'s factory for coffee and tea-preparing machinery, &c. Matale railway. Hantane Peak or Matana Patana for view, . Gregory road, and Lady Horton's Walk. The Pavilion. Peradeniya Botanic Gardens, Gampola Bridge. Uva, Dimbula and Matale. for coffee, tea, cacao and cinchona cultivation. Bamboda falls and pass. Eadi- yanlenA, Kotmale ; and Devon and St.' Clair falls, Dimbula. Huluganga falls in the Knuekles. View of Adam's Peak from. Ambagamawa road. Waterfalls in the Horseshoe Valley, Maskeliya, and at the Balangoda end. Adain's Peak, the olimb;np and view from. Trip to Anuradhapura, via Matale and Dumbulla (where rock temple) ; ruins at Polonnaruwa ; the great tank region, &c. Elk hunting, elephant shooting, gemming,. &c. The trip to Badulla and Haputale. Ella pass and the highest waterfall in Ceylon. Badulla- temple and fort, and hot springs. NuwARA Ei-rrA.-^The drive, from the Nanuoya station upwards ; the Blackpool and variegated forest tints. The " Longden Bead " along the side of tlA Nanuoya ; the drive round the Lake and Moon Plains; on the new Udapussellawa road, with beautiful JEilternation of forest and grass land ("patanas"), magnificent gorges, fern- covered gullies and waterfalls, ; the waterfall and " grotto " Ceylon : Summm-y of Information. 315 on Portswood estate ; the view of the lake, bund and river from Lady Horton's Walk above the bund ; ♦' The Lady's Waterfall" below the patanas leading from the bund (Elliewatte Gorge), and Lady Horton's Walk ; the view of Adam's Peak, Dimbula, &c., from One Tree Hill ; also of the whole circle of mountains, Adam's Teak, Kirigalpotta, Kuduhugala, Totapola, Hakgala, Haputale, Namunakn- lakanda, Udapussellawa, Lover's Leap, Pidurutalagala, Kikhmana, and of the town, plains and lakes, from Naseby Hill, 6,400 feet ; of Uva from Hakgala Gardens, with tlie gardens themselves, fernery, &o., and, the delightful drive down. The climb to Pidurutalagala summit. The old graveyard. Jaffna. — Tlie Fort and Batteries, the Dutch Church, the Batticotta Seminary, " the bottomless well," the F. N. Society's Hospital, this market, salt lewayas, and pearl banks off Arippu. Tobacco cultivation and the coral wells at Jaffna, &c. Giant's Tank ruins in Mannar district. Batticaloa. — Port and Batteries, beautiful Bay of Vendeloos. Extensive rice and coconut cultivation. Tbincoualke. — One of the finest harbours in the world. Fort Ostenburg, Fort Frederick. NillaveUi salt pans. Hot springs at Kanniya. Dambdlla, Anurabhapuba; Pollonaruwa, &c.-^See for full particulars of sights and way to make journey ; — " Buried Cities of Ceylon." Shooting Trips. — For snipe, hares, and small deer in Western, Southern, and other provinces. For Elephant, to Hambantota and Bintenne. For elk, cheetah, ^c, in higher hill regions. For crocodiles, bears, &c., in Northern Tank regions. ' WEITEES ON CEYLON. AND AUTHORITIES TO BE CONSULTED FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION. De Barros;^ De Couto, Ribeiro (Lee's translation, with valuable appendices), Valentyn, BaldsBus, Knox (edited by Philalethes), Percival, Cordiner, Lord Valentia, Bertolacci, Marshall, Davy, Forbes, Bennett, Knighton, Pridham, Emerson Tennent ; Fergusons. Casie Chitty's Gazetteer; Parliamentary papers ; Ceylon Blue Books ; Governors' Speeches ; Sir H. Ward's collected Minutes and Speeches ; 316 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Oejlon Almanacks, Civil Lists, Manuals, Directories, &c. For Natural History : — Moon, Gardner, Thwaites, Kelaart, Hooker and Thomson, Templeton, Nietner, E. A. Layard, W. Ferguson, Boake, Steuart, Tennent (monograph on Elephant and on Pearl Oysters, Natural History of Ceylon), Legge, Moore, &c. On Oriental and Buddhistical Literature : — Turnour, Casie Chitty, Gogerly, Hardy, James Alwis, Fox, Callaway, Tolfrey, Upham, Childers, Rhys Davids ; with transactiona of Asiatic Societies of Britain, Bengal, Bomhay, Ceylon, and Paris, American and German Oriental Societies, " Indian Antiquary," " Orientalist," " Literary Eegister," &c. On Antiquities, — besides above. Burrows' " Buried Cities of Ceylon." On Elephant and Elk Shooting :' — Baker. For Laws and Principles of Justice, see " Thomson's Institutes," collecte'd volumes of procla- mations, ordinances, &c., with index, a;nd reports^ of cases by Marshall, Murray, Morgan, Lorenz, Beling and Van- derstraaten, Beven and Mills, &o., and Supreme Court Circular volumes. On Kandyan Law : — Sawers, Armour, &c. Tamil and Muhammadan Law : — Muttukistna. On Coffee Planting : — Sabonadiere's Coffee Planter of Ceylon ; A. Brown's Manual; R. E. Lewis, Aliquis (description of coffee planting in rhyme, by the late Captain Jolly), pamphlets by Dr. Elliott, George Wall, P. Moir, Ballardie, Cross, Owen, &o. New Products : — On Tea, Liberian Coffee, Cinchona, Cacao, Cardamoms, Coconut and Cinna- mon planting, see Manuals published at Ceylon Observer Ofl&ce. Poetry : — Captain Anderson's " Ceylon " and other poems. On Missionai-y Operations : — Harvard, Selkirk, Emerson's Tennent's " Christianity in Ceylon," Life of the "Apostolic" Daniel, Hardy's Jubilee Memorials of Wesleyan Mission, Jones's Jubilee Memorials of Church Mission, Memoir of Mrs. Winslow and other American works, with reports of Baptist, Amerjcan, Wesleyan, Church, and Romish Missions. On Sinhalese Language : — Clough, Lambrick, Chater, Carter, James Alwis, Jones, Nicholson, C. Alwis, &c. On Tarp.il Language ■.^■'WinBlovr, Percival, Rev. W. Clark, A. Joseph, A. M. Ferguson, jun., &c. For the most complete repertory of General, and Statistical Information affecting the Colony, more especiaUy of its Planting Enterprise, see successive editions of the " Ceylon Directory and Handbook of Information," by A. M. & J. Ferguson. For local Guides : — See Ferguson's Ceylon : Summary of Information. 317 " Ceylon Eailway and Sanitarium " ; Burrows' " Kandy and Central Province"; Skeen's "Colombo and Environs"; Maitland's " Colombo and tbe Railway Service." For in- formation bearing on every branch of Tropical Agriculture, see the Tropical AgiicuUwist published monthly at the Ceylon Observer OlEce. APPENDIX IX. CEYLON AND ITS PLANTINQ INDUSTEIES. {From the London "> Times,", August 24, 1884.) TO THE EDITOR OF " THE TIMES." BOTAL COLONIAI. INSTITUTE, 16, StRAND, August 23, 1884. SiK, — Ceylon and its planters have been several times referred to in the discussion in The Times on the prospects- of. sugar cultivation in the West Indies, and perhaps a brief resume of the experience gained in the Eastern colony during a series of trying yekra may be of some interest and of service to planters elsewhere. It is pretty well known how in the course of forty years, from 1887 onwards, Ceylon rose' from being a mere mili- tary dependency (involving a consider&ble annual burden to the mother country) to the position of the first and wealthiest of British Crown Colonies. During that period its population, revenue, and trade so steadily advanced that they, well-nigh excelled those of aU the West Ihdiail colonies put together. The change was due almost en- tirely to the development of coffee-planting, which sent in the heyday of prosperity in Ceylon as much in one year as £5,000,000 sterling worth of the fragrant bean into the markets of the world, chiefly through London. Other branches of agriculture prospered and advanced during those forty years, such as palm tree, cinnamon, and rice Ceylon and its Planting Industries. 319 caltivation in the low covintry — coffee being grown on the hills — in the hands of the Sinhalese and Tamils. But it was through the capital introduced and the revenue created by coffee that the natives were enabled to extend their groves of coconut and palmyra palms, and that the Government could devote large sums to the restoration and construction of irrigation works, more particularly in supplying village sluices and tanks where the people were ready to make use of them. So far as European colonists were concerned, coffee- planting almost exclusively claimed their attention, and many of the Sinhalese also embarked in this enterprize. 'While coffee continued profitable, the counsels of those who advocated the cultivation of other products was treated as so much idle breath. Theoretically it was shown many years ago that the climate and much of the soil of Ceylon were better suited for tea than coffee ; but still the felling and clearing of the most beautiful and varied tropical forests in the world went on, until from 40i) to 500 square miles of country were covered with the one shrub, Cofea Arahica, carefully planted, and scientifically pruned — topped at the height of an average gooseberry bush. Nature was, however, preparing the punishment of a gross violation of her laws — a violation paralleled by the would-be dependence of the Irish forty years ago on potatoes, or by the cultivation in other countries of too wide and unbroken an area of wheat. Or of the vine. The penalty in Ceylon was first manifested in 1869, through a minute fungus on the leaf, very similar to the ciidiuin in the vine, rust in wheat, and the potato disease. For some seven or eight years not much was thought of it, save as an inducement to more liberal, careful cultivation; but the scientists caUed in to investigate, showed that little or no practical check could be offered, and within fifteen years, — to make a long story short — the minute, despised fungus had swept 100,000 acres of coffee cultivation out of existence — the poorly cultivated native gardens and neglected plantations being naturally the first to be aban- doned. At the same time the export of the coffee bean fell last year to one-fourth the maximum of 1,000,000 cwt. Here was certainly a grave misfortune overtaking a body of industrious men who had been the mainstay of a country's prosperity, and, moreover, their difficulties were 320 Ceylon in the Jvhilee Year. aggravated by an extraordinary development of coffee- production in Brazil. This was due to the interior of that South American Empire being rapidly opened up by railways made out of borrowed money ; the labour, at the same time, used in cultivating fresh coffee plantations being slave. Such competition might be deemed unfair — more particularly as it has taken ten years' agitation in Ceylon to secure an extension of less than 70 miles of railway from the Colonial Office ; but, in place of looking to the Government for factitious aid, the Ceylon planters ten years ago turned their attention to new products with all the energy and intelligence for which they are famous beyond any other tropical cultivators In many cases, of course, the new products, such as cinchona, tea, cacao (chocolate), and rubber, were experi- mented with as supplementary t6 the 175,000 acres of select coffee still maintained in cultivation ; and. let it be noted that in interspersing his coffee fields with cinchona and rubber trees, in planting belts or boundaries of such or areas of reserve in tea, the Ceylon planter was using one of the best means of checking the free dissemination of the fungus {hemileia vastatrix). As a consequence, possibly, or perhaps because the virulence of this pest is abating, duritig the current season Ceylon is giving an improved crop of coffee, and the export will be in excess of last year's.' At the same time, the plantings oi tea and cinchona bafk have become established and important industries. The export of the latter this year wiU probably be equal to 10,000,000 lb.* against a beginning in 1869 with only 28 oz. Nor is it expected that South America can ever again compete with the East — Ceylon, India, and Java — in the production of the invaluable febrifuge. Again, it is acknowledged on all hands now that Ceylon is better adapted to become a great tea-producing coun^ try than ever it was to lead with coffee. Situated in the pathway of the two monsoons, with an ample and well- distributed rainfall, in a most forcing climate, Ceylon is a perfect paradise for leaf crops. Fruit is more uncertain, and even in the be^t days of coffee great uncertainty often prevailed during the six weeks or two months of blossom- • It -was 324,000 cwt. against 260,000 owt. the pievions year, t It was 11,492,000 lb. ■• Ceylon and its Planting Industries. 321 ing season, when too much or too little rain often destroyed the chance of a due return for a whole year's labour. Coffee, too, could only be cultivated within a certain limited belt, from 2,500 up to 5,000 feet above sea level, whereas tea flourishes almost from sea-level to 6,000 feet and over. The tea shrub, in fact, is one of the hardiest of plants, growing in the open-air at Washington, United States, in New Zealand, &c. But the great advantage possessed by Ceylon and India for tea planting, is in cheap, suitable labour for the work of cultivation, leaf plucking, and preparing. The little island of Ceylon, as now opened up by railways and splendid roads, offers great advantages over most Indian districts for tea production. From both countries the tea supplied is of a pure, high quality. China teas have, in many cases, deteriorated of recent years, while the Japanese " greens," chiefly sent to America, are nearly all adulterated. I may, in passing, say that should the war now begun between France and China interrupt the tea trade or production in the Far East, there is no place whence a return can be so expeditiously got for the investment of capital in tea as from Ceylon. There is a wide extent of land available for tea, at an upset price of 10 rupees (16s.) per acre freehold, and a good crop of leaf can be had within three years of the jilanting. Assam planters who visit Ceylon are loud in their praise of what they see in the growth of our tea, our fine climate, unequalled roads, good supply of labour, &c. The pro- gress already made in the tea industry may be seen from the figures appended. The cacao, or chocolate-yielding fruit tree, is another new article of cultivation which has been successfully established in several districts in the island ; the Ceylon product from this plant being pronounced in Mincing-lane to be equal to the very finest received from Trinidad or South America. Indiarubber-yielding trees of various descriptions have, during the past few years, been extensively planted in Ceylon ; but the industry is still purely (experimental although good samples have been seen in tlie Londcii market. In fibres there "Uglit, by and by, to be a great rlevelop ment of industjy and trade in Ceylon, and, indeed, 2'2 322 Ceylon in the Jvbilee Year. " capital " is the only element wanted to secnra rapid progress in all the branches referred to. The fall of the Oriental Bank has reacted disastronsly, rendering money very scarce for the poor but indastrious planter, \r^ile, again, the credit of the colony has been damaged in many places through the non-success for many years and the final collapse of the Ceylon (but more properly Mauritius) Company, Limited. It is at this time, and in- view of the absolute scarcity of capital and depression of credit, that many planters in Ceylon think their industries in " new products" should receive some official support ; but they have no idea of interfering with the great principles, of free trade or of making a grievance out of the advantage possessed by the slave-owning planters of Brazil. It is a matter for congratulation that from the vejry beginning, the Ceylon planting enterprize has been based on a system of free labour, and that its products are so universally appreciated and beneficial as coffee, tea, quinine, chocolate, cinnamon, palm oils, &c. There is every reason to feel assured of a profitable return for money judiciously invested in these " new products " in Ceylon, and the much-tried sugar-planters of the West Indies cannot do better than make, experiments in the same direction, although I am free to admit that the comparative scarcity and dearness of their labour places them at a heaVy disadvantage. J. FERGUSON, Of the Ceylon- Observer and Tropical Agriculturist. The following are Statistics of some of the Planting Industries in Ceylon : — ; Coffee, — 1837 : — 2,500 acres cultivated ;. exported about 10,000 ewt. 1847: — 45;000 acr6s cultivated; exported about 200,000 cwt. 1857 : — 85,000 acres cultivated ; ex- ported about 450,000 cwt. 1867 :— 168,000 acres culti- vated: exported about 868,000 cwt. 1877 :— 272,000 acres cultivated ; exported about 976,000 cwt. 1883 : — 174,000 acres cultivated; exported about 265,000 cwt., while 1884 is expected to show an export of over S£iO,000 cwt. of cofifee — a welcome revival* • The actual export of co£Fee foi season 1883-4 was 324,000. ewt. Ceylon and its Planting Industries. 823 Tea. — The export began with 482 lb. in season 1875-6 : the export rose to 81,595 lb. in season 1878-9; and the export rose to 1,522,882 lb. in season 1882-3. The cur- rent season will probably show an export in excess of two million pounds,* and when the 35,000 acres of tea planted are in full bearing, in 1887-8, the season's ship- ments ought to be equal to 10 million pounds. Eventually it is estimated Ceylon should have 200,000 acres under tea, and an annual export of 60 million pounds and upwards. It depends on home capitalists very much how soon this result may be realized. Cacao. — The export of cacao (or cocoa, as it is called in the market) began with 10 cwt. in 1878, and last year it was 4,000 cwt., while for the current year it is likely to reach 10,000 cwt.+ CincJwiia bark began with an export of 28 ounces in 1869 ; rose to 507,000 lb. in 1879 ; and was last season equal to seven million pounds ; while for 1883-4 the return will exceed 10 millions. f Palm Trees and Cinnamon. — -Of the products of palm trees and cinnamon bushes, cultivated chiefly by native owners, Ceylon now sends an annual value of from iE800,000 to a million sterling into the markets of the world, against less than one-fifth of this value thirty years ago. [For later statistics of exports see table on page 272.] CEYLON AND ITS PLANTING INDUSTKIES. The Editor of The Economist. Colombo, October 26, 1886. Sir, — The Ceylon commercial season closes on the 30th September each year, and the Colombo Cbamber of Commerce Tables are made up as soon after as possible. The actual results arrived at for our staple export trade cannot fail to be of much interest to those who have watched the gradual development of other planting * The actual export of tea for season 1883-4 was 2,263,000 lbs- f The actual export of cocoa was 9,863 cwt. J The export of bark equalled llj million lb. 824 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. industries since the appearance of the leaf fungus which so woefully affected our coflfee. Having drawn the attention of West Indian planters through the columns of the London press in August, 1884, to the way in which Ceylon planters had developed " new products " to make up for the failure in coffee, I would again put forward a few figures in support and illustration of the position I then took up. Tea is rapidly becoming the- main staple of the planters of Ceylon, and everything points to our export of this important new product rivalling that of India in about ten years' time. So far, it is comparatively the day of small things, but the following figiures show the beginning of an important enterprise. It will be observed that the export progresses more nearly in. a geometrical than an arithmetical ratio. The Ceylon exports of Tea have developed as follows : — Tea. lb. Total Expprts from 1st Oct. 1885 to SOth Sept. 1888 7,170,839 Db. do. 1884 do. 1885 8,796,684 Do. do. 1888 do. 1884 3,963,539 Do. do. 1882 do. 1883 1,522,882 Do. do. 1881 do. 1882 623,292 Do. do. 1880 do. 1881 277,690 Do. do. 1879 do. 1880 108,624 Do. do. 1878 do. 1879 81,695 Do. do. 1877 do. 1878 8.616 Do. do. 1876 do. 1877 1,776 Cinchona Babk shows the next chief development among new products, as the foUdwing figures will show : — CnioHoiiA. Branch ft Tmnk. lb. Total Ezpnts from lirt Oct. 1886 to SOth Sept. 1880 16,864,813 ■Do. do. 1884 dn. 1886 11,678,860 Do. do. 18SS do. 1884 11,492,947 Do. do. 1882 do. 188S 6,926,696 Do. do. 1881 do. 1883 8,099,896 Do. do. 1880 do. 1881 1,207,720 Do. do. 1879 *• ■-«./. 1,206,618 Do. do. 1878 878,611 Do. do. -<->, -id 178,497 Do. do. -• 1877 66,689 Ceylon and its Planting Industries. 325 For a medicinal bark, and the preparations therefrom, there is no such scope for demand and consumption as in the case of tea. Biit to a fairly remunerative market, it is heb'eved that Ceylon can supply 7 to 10 million lb. of cinchona bark annually without any difficulty ; while if there were only the market, the export of the past season could probably be maintained for some years to come. Cacao, or the cocoa or chocolate yielding plant, has not succeeded quite so widely as was expected in Ceylon, but there are certain districts in which the cultivation has now proved very successful. Some mistakes were made at first in the mode of planting, but these are now gene- rally rectified, and there is the fair promise of increasing returns. This is especially the case during the present year, the weather having been very favourable to cacao. The annual exports have been as follows : — Cocoa. cwt. Total Exports from Ist Oct. 1885 to 30th Sept. 18-6 13,317 Do. do. 1881 do. 1885 6,758 Do. do. 188S do. 1884 9,863 Do. do. 1882 do. 1883 3,.588 Do. do. 1881 do. 1882 1,018 Do. do. 1880 do. 1881 479 Do. do. 1879 do. 1880 122 Cabdamoms have been, for many years, quite a minor article among our products, but since the European planter has given his attention to this spice, the colony has taken the foremost rank for its exports, Ceylon, in fact, now ruling the European market for cardamoms as well as for cinchona bark. The exports of this spice have risen as follows : — Car- damoms. lb. Total Exports from 1st Oct. 1885 to SOth Sept. 1886 236,056 Do. do. 1881 do. 1885 152.405 Do. do. 1883 do. 1884 66,319 Do. do. 1883 c-o. 1883 21,655 Da do. 1881 do. 1882 23,127 Do. do. 1880 do. 1881 16,069 In contrast with these instances of steady, continuous progress with what may be called " new products," I have to place the return for our staple coffee, showing an equally steady decline, consequent on the weakening 826 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. e£fects of the fatal leaf fungus. The export figures are as follows : — Coffee, cwt. Plant- ation. Native. TotaL Total Eiporte fcom Ist Oot 1885 toSOth Sept. 1886 216,576 8,117 228,698 Do. do. 1884 4d. 1885 294,606 20,805 814,811 Do. do. 1888 do. 1884 812,458 11,488 828.941 Do. do. 188-3 do. 1883 245,631 14,422 260,053 Do. do. 1881 do. 1882 622,949 41,897 664,846 Do. do. 1880 do. 1881 415^56 88,802 463,758 Do. do. 1879 do. 1880 622,306 47,808 669,614 Do. do. 1878 do. 1879 767,298 67,216 824,609 Do. do. 1877 do. 1878 661,046 69,246 620,292 Do. do. 1876 do. 1877 851,201 91,846 943,047 It is satisfactory to know that Tea is so fully taking the place of coffee, oVer 180,000 * acres being now planted with this product, which grows well, not only within the limits of climate suited to coffee — namely, from 1,600 to 5,000 feet above sea-levelWbut from a few score of feet above, or almost sea-level, , to neatly 7,000 feet altitude. The tea-plant is, in fact, one of the hardiest on the long list of the tropical planter, and nowhere has it found a more congenial home than in moist, hot Ceylon. The cry of over- production has, indeed, of late, been raised in reference to tea; but'if English-speaking folks in America take to drinking tea in place of their favourite coffee, now likely, year by year, to decrease in supply, thpre will be a wide demand' added to the present one. Moreover, so far as peylon is concerned, it has been shown that, through the gi:eat advailtages possessed by the colony, that of a superior quality can be produced more cheaply here than in its great rival India, so that the remoter districts of the latter country must first suffer. The exports in which the Ceylonese people are chiefly interested, i.e., cinnamon, plumbago (out only commercial mineral), essential gress oils, and the products of the coconut palm, i.e., oil, copra, and coir fibres, keep well up, although the crop of coconuts is liable to alternate, according to the season. In a favourable season, the number of nuts gathered in • Over 150,000 acres now; in 1887. Ceylon and its Planting Industries. 327 Ceylon is now estimated at a thousand millions — the greater portion, however, being utilized locally for the food of the people. Briefly, this total value of our staple exports for the past season may be put at £2,400,000 sterling ; while for the current commercial year, October, 1886, to September, 1887, the foUowiiag estimates prepared for the Ceylon Ubseruer from district returns, indicate a very considera- ble advance : — Season 1886-7.— Probable Shipment o/Stnple Expo ■ti. Quantity. Value. Coffee 185,000 cwt. at 75/ £693,750 Tea .. 14,000,000 lb. at 1/li 787,500 Cinchona bark .. 12,000,000 lb. at 8d. 400,000 Cocoa' 22,000 cwt. at 80/ 88,000 Cardamoms 300,000 lb. at 2/ 30,000 Coconut oil 280,000 cwt. at 27/6 385,000 Copra 150,000 cwt. at 14/0 105,000 Coconut Poonac 50,000 cwt. at 7/ 17,500 Cinnamon .. 1,500,000 lb. at 1/3 93,750 Do. chips 500,000 lb. at 5d. 10,416 Plumbago 200,000 cwt. at 8/ 80,000 Coir of all kinds 110,000 cwt. at 15/0 84,000 Ebony 7,500 tons at 100/ 37,500 Deer Horns 2,000 cwt. at 50/ 5,000 Sapan Wood 2,500 cwt. at 40/ 5,000 Kitul Fibre 1,800 cwt. at 50/ 4,500 Essential Oils .. 6,500,0p0 oz. at Id Total... 27,000 £2,853,010 J. FERGUSON, Of the Ceylon Observer and Tru^jical Ayr'uulUuist. APPENDIX X. THE PKOSPECTS OP ENGLAJTD'S CHIEP TEOPICAL COLONY. AN INTERVIEW WITH A CEYLON JOUBNAUST (mB. JOHN febguson). {From " The Pall Mail Gazette," August 29«A ; and " Budget," Sept. 5, 1884.) " We have not now • all our eggs in one basket.' At present the city will not look at Ceylon as a field for investment. Money is scarce owing to the fall of the Oriental Bank, and our credit has been greatly damaged by the collapse of the Ceylon /more properly the Mauri- tius) Company. It shoqld be known, however, that in onr climate, roads, railways, cheap free laboar, we have every encouragement for tropical agriculture iii Ceylon. Our natives are being so rapidly educated that by 1900 A.D. English will . practically be the language of tlie majority of thd people. Colombo' is the shipping centre of the Eastern world, thaAks to Sir John Coode's new harbour ; and capital ' judiciously invested in tea and cacao culture especially, is as likely to bring a good returh as any agricultural enterprize I know of anywhere." Such is Mr. Ferguson's summing-up of England's prin- cipal tropical colony. He is inclined, it will be seen, to take an optimistic view of Ceylon and its future, but he speaks with -the accumulated experiences of twenty-three years' residence in the colony. Then he has the numerous correspondents of his papers, the Ceylon Observer and the Tropical Agriculturist, scattered all ovlr the tropical world ' where English planters are at work ; some reporting on' England's Chief Tropical Colony. 329 tea in Assam; on planting prospects in Java and Fiji; on the Liberian coffee in West Africa ; and on planting in Brazil ; while he himself has just been making the all- round-the-world trip, visiting California and Florida en route. " Nowhere is tropical agriculture so thoroughly studied and experimented on as in Ceylon." Young Men Wanted. — " We now ask for young fellows of the right sort — even public schoolmen, university men — any one witli pluck and energy who comes determined to fight his way against all odds. Do not mistake me. We do not want to be flooded out by thriftless never-do- weels, who have failed at everything they have turned their hands to, but resolute chaps with a little capital to invest, though they must first serve an arduous apprentice- ship, for there is no royal road to tea-planting. No young fellow should come out without some money and letters of introduction to iDlanters or merchants. A tropical country is very different in its conditions from Australia and New Zealand, where a man can turn to at once. Let us sup- pose our model young man landed at Colombo and dis- patched to a station to serve his novitiate. In some cases he might have to pay from £50 to £100 a year for his board and training, but if he shows any aptitude for his work and is a willing horse, he would well repay his cost for food and shelter." The Fungus Scourge. — " The story of the coffee blight is soon told. A few years ago, coffee alone was seen over hundreds of square miles of hillside and valley, eastward, south, and north of Adam's Peak. Then in 1869 the fun- gus appeared, and year after year it did its deadly work, and half ruined us. Here are some figures wliich put the matter in a nutshell. Take the cofl'ee production from 1847 to 1883 now. You have in 1847 an acreage of 45,000, with an export of 200,000 hundredweight ; in 1857—85,000 acres, and 450,000 hundredweight ; in 1867—168,000 acres and 868,000 hundredweight ; in 1877—272,000 acres, and 926,000 hundredweight ; in 1883—174,000 acres, and 265,000 hundredweight ; whilst 1884 is expected to give from 300,000 to 850,000 hundredweight. I think we may fairly say that the point of depression has been turned, if the estimate proves anything like correct." Tea well Save us. — " What happened after the coffee bhght became serious ? " " Why, naturally enough, many 330 Ceylon in the Jvb'dee Year. of the plantations iwere deserted, the capitalists took fright, saperintendents were thrown out of employment, and set off to other countries. There was a regular migration to Northern AustraUa, Fiji, Borneo, the Btraits, California, Florida, Burmah, and elsewhere. I should say that out of our 1,700 planters we lost at least 400 in this way. In Northern Australia, at Fort Darwin, three or four of our Ceylon planters have planted coffee and cinchona ; in California some are busy with vines and oranges. Some have gone to Florida among the orange groves ; but a Florida orange grove requires twenty years to come to fall maturity, thbagh the trees begin to bear long before that, %ay in six years. There is a.ready market in America for the fruit, but a man requires to work hard there and to know his business before his speculation is likely to prove remnnerativa But in Ceylon our indomitable planters, who stuck to their, posts, began to turn their attention to other products — tea, cinchona, rubber, caciao ; some 175,000 acres of coffee being still under cultivation. Many of the coffee planters ran belts of rubber trees and cinchona between his coffee bushes, thus helping to check the spread of the dread coffee fungus. I think the statistics show that the scourge' is abating; but whatever comes of coffee, Ceylon will become a great tea-growing eounti;y within the next few years. When the 35,000 acres of larra. now under tea come into full bearing, in three or four years we expect to export ten millitoi pounds. Some day Ceylon will have 150,000 acres under tea, and an aUnual export of sixty million pounds and upwards. Home capitalists have only to say the word. From 482 pounds of tea exported in 1875-6, the amount in 1882-8 reached a million and a half pounds. The yield of cacao for this year is likely to reach 10,000 owt. Last season we exported 7.000,000 pounds of cinchona bark, this year it will be 11,000,000; while of cinnamon and palm tree products (grown chiefly by natives) we ship nearly a million, sterling's worth. The Sinhalese and Tamils are quite ready to follow the Euro- pean planters in- reference to the new pjroducts of late years being introduced into Ceylon. They have planted the cinchona, cacao,> and rubber trees ; .but specially are the Sinhalese likely to become extensive growers of the tea plant." The Land and the Climate. — " Now is the time to buy England's Chief Tropical Colony. 331 land, for we are on the turn after years of depression, and such land as you can now buy for 16b. an acre, may in a year or two be doubled or trebled in price. Just as was the case in the years between 1868 and 1875, when every one was ' going into coffee,' and forest land sold for £20 an acre in some districts. Since 1883 some 1,800,000 acres of Crown lands have been sold (to Europeans and natives), at an averapre price from 1833 to 1844 of 10s. 8d. ; from 1844 to 1883 the average has been 85s. ; and the upset price now is 16s. There is no land tax, except within the areas of the towns." " And what about the climate ?" " Delightful — for the tropics most healthy, p,nd not much hotter than it has been iu London during the past few weeks, even at our hottest on the hills. Most of the planters and their assistants enjoy the best of health, though of course pioneers and those who have to work through new forest and in the low country, often suffer from malarious fevers. But then have you not the cool mountain station to fly to as a restorer ? There is Nuwara Eliya and Bandarawela, on the plateau of Uva Principality, where you get coolness, with health-laden breezes — and I have even broken the ice in my water jug, in a Nuwara Eliya cottage. Given a change now and then, good food, care, and temperance — a European is as well off as regards climate (some might say better) than at home here." Free Labour. — " One of our greatest advantages is ' Free labour.' Close at our shores are the twelve million coolies of Southern India, whose average earnings are be- tween £3 and f 4 a year each. Yes, and he is able to live, on it, too, and to support a wife and family. From this vast source we draw our supply of labourers, and fine well- trained, diligent fellows they become. They come over with perhaps a wife and three or four children ; they are engaged for a period, a mouth's notice sufScing to terminate the contract on either side. There is a hut ready for them, with a bit of ground for a garden, in which they grow vegetables and so on ; the planter gives them a blanket and food until they are able to repay him out of their earn- ings. Their wages average from ninepence to a shilling a day for a man ; a woman can jnake about 7d., and a child 5d., so they are well off; they save money, and when they go back to their own village in a year or two's time, they have probably some five or six pounds in their pouch. 332 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. This the careful coolie invests in a piece of land, which, on his return to the Ceylon plantations, he leaves in charge of a relative or a friend until he goes home agsdn. Our Kandyans, or highlanders, are splendid axemen, and it is they who do the felling of our forests and the clearing of tlie land ready for planting. Then the South Indian coolies do the Egging and planting. The land, by the way, lies generally on timbered slopes. Th« axemen begin at the bottom, cut each tree half through, and work up to the top. The highest fringe is cut clean through, and with its weight brings down the rest of the slope in the fall. The Sinhalese themselves refuse to do any agricultural work for Europeans. It is beneath them. They are our carters, employed in taking the tea and coffee, and so on, from the stations to the coast. If I remember rightly there were some 13,000 licensed carts a year oi: two ago. The Sinhalese are also our boatmen and artisans and domestic servants. Now many of our Sinhalese and Tamils are wealthy. One, indeed, is the richest man on the island, with an income of some £20,000 a year or more. Some of the coolies, I raust confess, are sad thieves. You may of a Sunday meet a man and his wife on the road, one of them carrying a cock, the other a hen. The birds are all their portable property, which they are compelled to take with them while visiting some friends, lest they should be stolen." Ceylon Railways. — " The cost of the Colombo and Kandy Pailway, of 74 miles, was £1,740,000. Then an extension to Nawalapitiya from Peradeniya, 17 miles, was opened in 1874 ; and an extension from Kandy to Matale, 17^^ mites, in 1880. ■ Besides these, a seaside line has been constructed from Colombo to Kalutara, 27^- miles. In August,- 1880, the, first sod was turned of an extension from Nawalapitiya for 42 miles to Upper Dimbula, whence it was intended to be carried 25 miles farther to Haputale. Altogether about 180 miles of railway, all on the 5 J ft. gauge, have been opened, or are under, construction. But there is one grievance which I should like to point out concerning these railways. The length of f6rty-two miles from Nawalapitiya to Upper Dimbula will probably be opened in May, having cost £900,000 of money. But then they are going to stop short instead of pushing on as was proposed to Haputale, the real terminus, with new traflSc, England's Chief Tropical Colony. 333 which is only 24 miles farther, and would cost £400,000, and open up a vast a,mount of splendid country, which at present is compelled to send its prodtioe round by road, a distance of 200 miles^-a roa,d which is subjected to floods, too, to say nothing of the .delay and cost." The Tea Planter at Woek. — " Let us suppose that a young man has learned his business, and has a thousand or two of capital He buys 200 acres at 163. an acre. He would begin by opening up, say, twenty-five acres his first year, clearing, draining, and planting. Then, in ,his second year, he would prepare another twenty-five acres. Up to and including the third year his outlay would be about £20 to £25 an acre. In his third year there would be a crop of tea-leaf — a small one. In the fourth and fifth year he might expiect, supposing that he is lucky, to have a crop of tea of 400 lb., to the acre, which he would lay down in England at 9d. a pound., which would produce in the market firom Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. a lb., thus leaving a margin of 6d. profit. Then he would ad- vance, not laying out too much capital to start with, but gradually feeling his way. All the year roimd tea requires one man per acre, in crop time a fuller force. It is hard physical work, though there may be no absolute manual labour. At five in the morning the bugle sounds for all hands, the planter comes down to the muster, the coolies go off to their work, the master has his coffee and follows them, going on foot of course, from point to point, super- vising and directing, and at 11 a.m. he returns to his breakfast. Until 3 p.m. he remains indoors, attending to business matters, then going out again for another spell of work and inspection. And so the days pass." "Snakes?" " Boots and clothing are a great protection against snakes, and during the last sixty years I don't think there has been one case of death among the whites. The natives, of course, have no protection from clothing, and are more careless. In Ceylon our coffee machinery for pulping, for skinning, for drying, has been brought to a state of per- fection, and tlie machines manufactured at Colombo are known throughout the tropics. It is this attention to im- provements that has helped us so materially. Our planters are men with ideas, which they are quick to put into force. So it is with the new industries — tea, cinchona, cacao — the machinery for their preparation is being improved every SM Ctyhn in the Jubilee Year. titty.. Yon sed Ceylon is a comparatively small country, ivA the planters are abl« to compare notes. A hedrs hov B fa. doing this, he tells it to G, they have a talk abont it, land 30 the matter gfows. Each district has its little «Bntre (not to mention the health reports on the hills), ^heve there is a olnb and other facilities for the intercom- ihQnication of ideas." iThbt Ways of ithk Seathen Chinee. — " On my way from Singapore' to China I fell in with a Sumatran to- Itacco planter whb had imported Chinese coolies at a cost ot,£7 to £10. a h6ad, on an engagement of a number of fears.. Smallpox broke out among them. Now a China- Bran-prefers-desth to disfigmrement ; .he has no notion of Kffolving through endless cycles with a pitted face, so they took to suicide, and every morning the overseer came in with his, report :— r-' Anotheir ten to thirty pounds gone, sir. One io three inore of em found hanging to a tree just now.' This was a serious difficulty. So at last the planter issued » prolclama.tion'to the, effect that the body of the next hung Oldnaman, instead of being carefully coffined, would be cut; into |)ieces. This device stopped suicide. Another oarious fact respecting the peculiarities of the Chinese is worth mentioniiu;. When. a Chinaman signs articles on board ship one of them is that if he dies on the passage his body-shall be embalmed and sent back to China. In the steaimer between Yokohama and San Francisco, one of our stokers met witti an accident. The doctor said the only Qkunce for him was to cut off his leg. ' No, no,' said the stoker, and '^No^^ jad,' chorused his comrades. But in a day or two moi^ifii^tion flet in, and the leg was sacrificed. The man died,. and his friends Were horribly savage at the desecration wrought by the doctor's knife and saw. But they made the be^t 6f it. and embalmed the mortified leg with the dead body of poor John. The Chinese in the Straits ,earn, if they are good workmen, about 4s. a day. Perhaps, we have three Chinamen all told in Ceylon, but it is curious to notice that after four days' steaming -from Colombo to Singapore you are virtually in China, for the China.men are;, gradually filling the Straits up. Of course there is much to be said on both sides — but the Califomians, so far as I saw, miss their Chinese servants sadly — in fact, a Chinaman is at a premium. In my opinion the time had not come in Western America to stop Chinese immigra- England's Chief Tropical Colony. 335 tion. At present only traders are allowed to enter the country, though for every Chinese coolie who dies one is allowed to take his place. A big business is done in cer- tificates from all I can hear. Why, I heard that one of the most violent of the anti-Chinese agitators still kept to his Chinese servants. He is not a true patriot, like the Englishman who refused to eat slave-grown sugar. Some two or three years ago a Queensland planter engaged 500 of our Sinhalese to go to his sugar plantations. They went, much to our surprise, for such a thing as Sinhalese emigra- tion was unknown. They proved a bad bargain, for they were nearly all selected from gaol-birds of the worst type. Few of them ever found their way to the plantations, many were absorbed in the towns, whilst a few found their way back home." An Opening fob English Girls. — " There is just one word of advice I should like to give to fathers and brotiiers. To the latter, if you go to Ceylon or India — or to any other, colony, for the matter of that — arrange after you have a house of your own to get your sister out with you. England is overstocked with women, who are glamouring for work and votes and husbands, too. Now England is sending out some of her best blood to its distant posses- sions. Why should the young men go and not the young women ? I am convinced that the presence of his .sister would have saved many a young fellow, in the pioneering days in the tropics, from' driuk and miin, if she had been there to look after his bungalow and minister to his wants. Fellows used to come in from a hard day's work on the mountain slopes, fagged and weary.i to their bungalow. There was food for them prepared by native servants, but it was often not fit to eat. So some went to the beer or brandy for consolation. Things are better now, and ladies more numerous ; but still, in colonizing, whether to tropical or temperate climes, sister and brother may well go out together. But there is no need for me to expatiate on the advantages of my proposal." "What do you think of the prospects of the North Borneo Company ? " I asked Mr. Ferguson, as he rose to go. " I cannot say from actual experience, but we have one or two correspondents there from whom we hear now and then. It took Ceylon seventeen hard years of pioneer- ing before we began to think that success would be perma- 336 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. nent, and North Borneo is yet a very young country. There are at present a few plantations of tea, coffee, and cinchona scattered along the coast, whUe collectors are at work in the interior gathering ivory and minerals. It is like other new colonies — it needs capital and men." KbW Gardens. — " I cannot, by the way, over-estimate the value of the work which Sir Joseph Hooker and Kew Gardens do for us, not only for Ceylon, but for all the tropical countries wherein fresh products are being tried. The Kew authorities have correspondents and collectors in all parts, and if any one wishes to try experiments he has only to write to Kew for advice and specimens, which are forwarded to him from the gardens. You might think that it would be easier for us to send to the country where the plant or fruit was indigenous rather than to England, but the difficulties would often prove too great. Kew is of vast service to the planters in many respects." " The military force," said Mr. Ferguson, in conclusion, " situated in Ceylon, costs us f 120,000 a year, or 10 per cent, of our revenue.* Now why should we be compelled to expend this sum on British troopis we don't want. It is a serious grievance. You us6 Ceylon as a convenient centre, &om which you may draw in case of any. little war in India, in China, in New Zealand, in South Africa, or Egypt . I do not think it fair to impose this burden upon us." * This burden has since been greatly reduced, very much through the influence of Governor Sir Arthur Gordon. In some other parts of The Pall Mall report of this interview I have made corrections where my remarks were slightly misunderstood. — J.F. APPENDIX X. " THE SHADOW OF THE PEAK." (Inserted by permission from " The Philosophical Magazine " for January, 1887). THE PECULIAR SUNKISE-SHADOWS OF ADAm's PEAK IN CEYLON. BY THE HON. RALPH ABEKCROMBY, F.R. MET. SOC* There are certain peculiarities about the shadows of Adam's Peak which have long attracted the attention of travellers ; a good deal has been written about them, and several theories have been proposed to explain the observed phenomena. In the course of a meteorological tour round the world the author stopped in Ceylon for the express purpose of visiting the Peak, and was fortunate enough to see the shadow under circumstances which could leave no doubt as to the true explanation, and which also entirely disproved certain theories which have been propounded on the subject. The following account is taken from a paper by the Eev. E. Abbay, many years resident in the island, entitled, " Kemarkable Atmospheric Phenomena in Ceylon," which was read before the Physical Society of London, May 27th, 1876, and published in TJie Philosophical Magazine for July, 1876. Writing from descriptions, for he himself had never witnessed the appearance, Mr. Abbay says : — " At sunrise apparently an enormous elongated shadow of the mountain is projected to the westward, not only over the land but over the sea, to a distance of seventy or eighty miles. As the sun rises higher, the shadow rapidly ap- * Bead before the Physical Society on November 13th, 18S6. 23 338 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. proaches the mountain, and appears at the same time to rise before the spectator in the form of a gigantic pyramid. Distant objects — a hill or a river (or even Colombo itself, at a distance of forty-five miles) — may be distinctly seen through it ; so that the shadow is not really a shadow on the land, but a veil of darkness suspended between the observer and the low country. All this time it is rapidly rising and approaching, and each instant becoming more distinct, until suddenly it seems to fall back on the spec- tator, like a ladder that has been reared beyond the vertical ; and the next instant the appearance is gone. For this the following explanation is proposed : — The average temperature at night in the low country during the dry season is between 70° and 80° F., whilst that on the summit of the Peak is from 30° to 40°. Consequently the lower strata of air are much less dense than the upper ; and an almost horizontal ray of light passing over the summit must of necessity be refracted upwards and luffer total internal reflection as in the case of an ordinary nirage." 'It will be remarked that Mr. Abbay does not allow for the difierence of elevation, and the sequel will show that this theory cannot be maintained. Adam's Peak is a mountain that rises in an abrupt cone, more than 1,000 feet above the irregular chain to which it belongs ; the summit reaches to 7,852 feet above the sea. Dn the south side the mountain falls suddenly down to Eatnapura, very little above the sea-level ; while on the north it slopes irregularly to the high valley of the Maske- liya district. The peak also lies near an elbow in the main chain of mountains, as shown in the diagram of the topography of the Peak (fig. 1), whije a gorge runs up from the north-east just to the, west of the mountain. When, then, the north-east monsoon blows morning mist up the valley, light wreaths of condensed vapour will pass to the west of the Peak and catch the shadow at sunrise only, if other things are suitable. The importance of this will appear !^ater on. The only difiSculty in getting to Adam's Peak is the want of a rest-house within reasonable distance of the summit. Fortunately the kindness and hospitality of T. N. Christie, Esq., of St. Andrew's plantation, MaskeUya, enabled the author, in company with Mr. G. Christie and " The Shadow of the Peak." 339 Professor Bower, of the University of Glasgow, to makt the ascent with great ' comfort and with a few necessary instruments. Our party reached the summit on the night of the 21st February, 1886, amid rain, mist, and wind. Towards morning the latter subsided, but at 5 '30 a.m. the sky was covered with a confused mass of nearly every variety of cloud. Below and around us cumulus and mist ; at a higher level, pure stratus ; above that, wild cirro-stratus and fleecy cirro-cumulus. Soon the foreglow began to brighten the under surface of the stratus-cloud with orange ; lightning flickered to the right of the rising sun over a dense mass of cloud ; opposite, a light pink-purple illumined an ir- regular layer of condensed vapour; - whileabove,apale Adam's Peak> moon, with aiarge ill-defined corona round her, strug- gled to break through a softish mass of fleecy cloud. Below lay the island of Cey- lon, the hills and valleys presenting the appearance of a raised r«lief-map ; patches of white mist fill the hollows ; true cloud drove at intervals across the country, and some- times masses of mist coming up from the valley enveloped us with condensed vapour. At 6 a.m. the thermometer marked 52° F. ; we had been told that the phenomenon of the shadow depended on the temperature at the summit falling to 30° or 40° F. ; and when, shortly after, the sun rose behind a cloud, we had almost lost all hope of seeing anything ; but suddenly at 6.30 a.m. the sun peepe^ through a chink in the clouds, and we saw the pointed shadow of the peak lying on the misty land. Driving condensed vapour was floating about, HO. L- -DliGBAM or THE TOPOQKAI'HY ADAM'S PEAK. 840 Ceylon ire the Jubilee Year. and a fragment of rainbow-tinted mist appeared near the top of the shadow. Soon this fragment grew into a com- plete prismatic circle of about 8° diameter by estimation, with the red outside formed round the summit of the Peak as a centre. The author instantly saw that with this bow there ought to be spectral figures, so he waved his arms about and immediately found shadowy arms moving in the centre of the rainbow. Two dark rays shot upwards and outwards on either side of the centre, as shown in the Diagram, fig. 2, and appeared to be nearly in a prolongation of the lines of the slope of the Peak below. The centre of the bow appeared to be just below the point of the shadow, not on it ; because '^^ we were standing on a plat- form below a pointed shrine, and the subjective bow centred firom our own eyes. If we did not stand fairly out in the sun, only a portion of the bow could be seen. Three times, within a quar- ter of an hour, this appear- ance was repeated as mist drove up in proper quantities, and fitful glimpses of the sun gave a sufficient light to throw a shadow and form a bow. In every case the shadow and bow were seen in front of land and never against the sky. The last time, when the suii was pretty high, we saw the charac- teristic peculiarity of the shadow. As a thin[ wreath of condensed vapour came np from the valley at a proper height a bow formed round the shadow, while both seemed to stand up in front of us, and then the shadow fell down oh to the land, and the bow vanished as the mist passed on. Here, then, was an unequivocal explanation of the whole phenomenon. The apparent upstanding of the shadow was simply the effect of passing mist which caught the FIG. 2. — DUORAM OF BAINBOW KonND THE SHADOW. " The Shadow of the Peak." 341 darkness of the Peak at a higher level than the earth, for when the condensed vapour moved on the characteristic bow disappeared, and the shadow fell to its natural plane on the ground. When the mist was low, as on the two .first occasions, the shadow fell on the top as it were, and there was no appearance of lifting, only the formation of a bow. The well-known tlieory of the bow is that light diffracted in its passage between small water-globules forms a series of bows according to the size of the globules, their close- ness, and the intensity of the illumination. Had the mist been so fine and thin as merely to catch and raise the shadow, but not to form a bow, there might have been some doubt as to the origin of the appearance. Our for- tune was in the unsettled weather which made the mist so coarse and close that the unequivocal bow left no doubt as to the true nature of the cause. About an hour later the sun again shone out, but much higher and stronger than before, and then we saw a brighter and sharper shadow of the Peak, this time en- circled by a double bow. Our own spectral arms were again visible, but the shadow was now so much nearer the base of the Peak, and we had to look so much down on it that there was no illusion of standing up, and there were no dark diverging rays. The inner bow was the one we had seen before ; the outer and fainter one was due to stronger light. The bows were all so feeble and the time so short that the author did not succeed in obtaining any sextant measurements , of the diameters of the bows ; but his thermometric observations conclusively disprove any idea of mirage. At 6 a.m. the thermometer on the Peak marked 52° F., while at Colombo the temperature stood at 74°-85. The difference of 22°-85 is just about the normal difference in temperature due to a height of 7,352 feet. The Colombo figures were procured through the courtesy of the Surveyor-General for Ceylon. They are got as follows : — Colombo observations only give the minimum that morning as 73°-6 F. and the 7 a.m. reading as 75°-5. The mean curve of diurnal temperature for the month of February, as determined by the Office, gives a difference of 0°"65 between the 6 a.m. and 7 a.m. observations; and^* 342 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. by subtracting that correction from 75°'5 we get 74°"85 as the 6 a.m. reading. The questions have been frequently asked — Why this lifted shadow should be peculiar to Adam's Peak ? why a similar appearance is not observed from any other moun- tain top ? and why the shadow is rarely seen at sunset ? There are not many mountains which are habitually visited that are either over 7,000 feet, or that rise in an isolated, well-defined pyramid. Still fewer can there be where a' steady wind, for\months together, blows up a valley so as to project the rising morning mist at a suit- able height and distance on the western side to catch the shadow of the peak at sunrise. The shadow is not seen during the south-west monsoon, for then the mountain is covered with cloud and deserted. Nowhere either do we find' at sunset those light mists lying near the ground which are so characteristic of sunrise, and whose presence is necessary to lift the shadow. The combination of a high isolated pyramid, a prevailing wind, and a valley to direct suitable mist at a proper height on the western side of the mountain, is probably only rarely inet with ; and at, present nothing yet has been described that exactly resembles this Sunrise shadow of Adam's Peak im the green island of Ceylon. But there is another totally different shadow which is sometimes seen from Adam's Peak, just before and at the moment of sunrise, that has been mixed' up in some accounts with the shadow we have just described. The shadow of the ' base of the Peak stretches along the land to the horizon, and then the shadow of the summit appears to rise tip and stand against the distant sky. The first part seems to be the natuiral shadow lying on the ground ; and the sky part to be simply the ordinary earth shadow of t'frilight projected so clearly against the sky as to show mountainous irregularities of the earth's surface. , As the sun rises the shadow of the summit against the sky gradu- ally sinks to the horizon, arid 'then the ordinary shadow grows steadily shorter as the sun gets higher in the usual manner. This can only be seen at sunrise from Adam's Peak, because the ground to the east is too high and mountainous to allow the shadow of the summit to fall on the sky before the sun is too far down. The author found a similar effect, only at sunset, on " The Shadow of the Peak." 343 Pike's Peak, Colorado, 14,147 feet above the eea, and nearly double the height of Adam's Peak. There, towards sunset, the shadow of the mountain creeps along the level prairie to the horizon, and there begins to rise up in the sky till the sun has just gone down, and the anticrepus- cular shadow rises too high to catch the outline of the Peak. The author only witnessed a portion of this sequence, for just about the time that the shadow stretched to the horizon clouds obscured the sun, and the rise of the shadow could not be observed ; but from all the descriptions he heard there can be no doubt that the character of the shadow is identical with that of Adam's Peak, only that, as the order of sequence is reversed, it is more easy to follow the origin of the shadows. Since the above was written the author's attention has been called to the sketch of the shadow exhibited by the well-known traveller. Miss C. F. Gordon Gumming, in the Colonial Exhibition. This picture represents the shadow lying down, but not raised, on an irregular surface of white mist and mountain tops. The most interesting thing is a prismatic fringe of colour along the straight outside edges of the shadow ; but there is no trace of a bow round its point. When we consider how much the appearance of the shadow depends on the height, size, and aggregation of the mist we need not be surprised at the numerous phases of reflection and refraction that have been described by travellers ; but the general principles which have been laid down in this paper appear to govern all. [Since the above was written, the Eev. E. Abbay has co.ne forward to dispute some of the conclusions arrived at by Mr. Abercrombv, and, indeed, to controvert his main contention. — J. F.] APPENDIX XII. TEA IN CEYLON. The follomng useful information was prepared by The Planters' Association of Ceylon, and circulated at the late Indian and Colonial Exhibition at South Ken- sington in 1886. In the minds of the British public the name of Ceylon has been chiefly associated with the production of coffee^ and spices : the latter in poetry, but in poetry only, im- parting their fragrance to the very air^: WliUe Ceylon cofifee and Ceylon spices are of superior quality and remain most important articles of trade, it is Ceylon tea that is rapidly becoming the staple product, and the one for which the island will soon be most cele- brated. Seldom or never has an industry made such progress, or a new article of consumption overcome by its intrinsic merit the opposition of vested trade interests as has Ceylon tea. in 1873 the exports of tea from Ceylon were 231bs. ; in 1885, they have been 4^ million lbs. ; in 1886 they will be about 10 mUhon lbs.; and in the near future 40 miUion lbs. will be exported. The area under tea in the island is rapidly extending, and already about 120,000 acres have been planted. Over 700 European planters and 150,000 Indian and Sinhalese labourers are engaged in the cultivation. Some of the plantations are but little above sea level, while others run up to an elevation of 6,000 feet. Th6 average altitude of the larger districts is about 4,000 feet above sea level, Tea in Ceylon. 345 an elevation at which the chmate is pleasant and most healthy. A railway runs up into the hills and a good system of cart roads exists, so that most of the estates are already within a day's journey from Colombo — the capital and shipping port. At a time when dietetics has almost become a science, when purity and cleanliness in food and beverages are so COOLIE GIBL PICKING TEA-LEATES. strongly insisted on, it is strange that greater attention has not been called to the more than doubtful nature of much of that which is consumed as tea. It has been said that, if to be an Englishman is to eat beef, to be an Englishwoman is to drink tea. True it is that the article which in the sixteenth century was a luxury, costing ten guineas a pound and consumed by 346 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. a hundred people, has in ihe nineteenth century become a necessity, costing two shillings a pound and consumed by millions. Did "the people of Britain thoroughly understand the difference between British-grown tea — such as Ceylon's — ^ and that of China or Japan, it is certain that those who could get the pure, clean, machine-prepared leaf which is turned out from the planter's factory, would never touch the far from pure article prepared by the hands and feet of the unwashed Mongolian. In China and Japan tea is mostly cultivated in small patches by the peasantry, who gather the leaves and pre- pare the tea in their huts in a very unfastidiouS manner. The tea, either in a half-mannfactnred or finished state, is sold to petty dealers, who in turn sell to larger dealers. The large dealer mixes and manipulates teas, packs and sells them to the European merchants for shipment to England, Australia, or America. The manipulation of tea is an art in which the Chinaman excels, and in many of the inferior kinds the quaJity is infinitely deteriorated — thus, " the dust of the leaf is mixed with clay and manipulated into the form of the ordinary leaf " — ^this is with appro- priate philological coincidence termed " lie " tea. " Tea leaves which have been already used are again manipulated and rolled into shape and sold as genuine tea." The teas of Japan, which are almost entirely consumed by our American cousins, are firequently and admittedly " faced " with a mixture of Prussian blue and soapstone. The Ceylon estate cultivation and manufacture is very different, and it may not be uninteresting to give a brief account of how pure tea is made. Visitors to the Ceylon Court in the Coloniarand Indian Exhibition will find an interesting series of photographs from Ufe, attached to the exhibits, of tea, illustrating the various operations. The tea bushes are planted in lines at regular distances over hundreds of acres of carefully roaded and drained land, which is regularly weeded every month. Once a year the bushes are pruned down to a height of about two feet ; and eight weeks after the pruning the first "flush" of young shoots is ready to be plucked, and during the height of the season the flushes re-occur every ten days. Coolies, having a small basket attached to their girdle, then go round and pluck the bud and a couple of the tender half- Tea in Ceylon. 347 developed leaves. At mid-day, and again in the evening, the leaf is weighed and taken into the factory. The leaf 348 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. is at once spread very thinly on trays or shelves to wither. The time which the leaf takes to wither — to become soft and pliable without drying np — varies with the weather, but as a rule the leaf gathered one day will be sufficiently withered the following day. The withered leaf is then placed in the rolling-machine, an ingenious and effective machine which is driven by water or steam power. The rolling lasts for nearly half- an-hour, at the end of that time the leaf has become a moist mass of twisted and bruised leaves, out of which the expressed juice freely comes, technically called " the roll." The roll is then placed in trays to ferment or oxidise ; during this process it changes from a green to a copper colour. The subsequent strength and flavour of the tea depend, to a great extent, upon the fermentation — a chemical process, the success of which is not entirely within the control of the planter, but depends greatly on the weather, and takes a time varying from two to six hours. The next process is that of firing. The roll is thinly spread on trays, and placed either over charcoal stoves or in large iron drying-machines, and at the end of half-an- hour it is thoroughly crisp and dried, and has become tea. The tea is then sorted or sized, by being passed through sieves of different meshes (see working model of a tea-sifter in the Ceylon Court) giving the varieties of broken-pekoe, pekoe, souchong, congou; and dust. The broken-pekoe, which consists chiefly of the opening bud of the leaf, gives the strongest tea, perhaps too strong a tea to be infused by itself ; and a mixture of pekoe and souchong makes the most pleasant drinking tea. The final process is that of weighing and packing. When a sufiicient quantity has been manfactured the tea is again slightly fired, to drive off any suspicion of moisture, and packed while warm in lead-lined boxes carefully soldered down to exclude air. Such is the mode of careful, cleanly preparation in the specially erected factory of the Ceylon planter ; and every drinker of genuine Ceylon tea may be certain that it is absolKtelij jiiive- Ceylon tea stands unrivalled for its combination of strength and flavour ; and the pure tea gives a beverage pleasant and beneficial to those who drink it. One Tea in Ceylon. 349 cannot doubt that, were the well-meaning evangelists in the cause of temperance to realize the diflereuce between pleasantly-strong well-flavoured stimulating tea and the " wishy - washy " decoction infused fi-om the cheaper China teas, their efforts to substitute " the cup which does not inebriate " for that which does might be made much more successful. In addition to the other good qualities, Ceylon tea possesses that of being economical ; for it is generally admitted that two pounds of Ceylon will go as far as three pounds of China. The tea you drink should be — 1.— Pure. 2. — Wholesome. 3. — Pleasant. 4 . — E conomical . And Ceylon tea justly claims pre-eminence on these grounds. Would-be purchasers of Ceylon tea must be warned that there is danger (just as there is with everything which has earned a good name and become popular) of a spurious or admixed article being sold instead of what is genuine. APPENDIX XIII. W0EK3 OF PUBLIC' INTEREST EXECUTED, AND ENDOWMENTS MADE, BY THE DE SOYS A FAMILY, AND CHIEFLY BY C. H. DE SOYSA, Esq. Roads.' — Cart road from Haragama to Len Oya. Good cart road at a point near eleventh mile post, on Galle road. Good cart road farther north on same road. Good cart road tenth mile post at vUlage Angulana. Several roads in the Chilaw district. Good cart road in populous villages terminating at Mampe. Excellent cart road from Polgas Owitte in Salpity Korale crossing village Mattegodde, terminating at Delgaha Manatte. The widening and re- pairing 01 many roads in and about Morattiwa. Fields and Tanks. — The building of the !Malluwawawe at' Gonagama. Irrigating a large field at Kandevalle, with a view to giving employment to the neighbouring destitute villagers. Ambalams, &c. — A comfortable rest-house for the use of the foot passengers at Haragama. An extensive and well- kept cemetery at Moratuwa for both strangers and members of the congregation. Rest-house at iloratuwa with sepa- rate compartments for both sexes. Churches. — The church at Hanguranketta. A fine church at Maravilla. St. John's, Pauadura. Holy Emmanuel's, Moratuwa. Contributions towards building the churches at Negombo and Kurunegala. The Pana- dura burial ground, which was liable to inundations, was raised at a large cost. Hospitals. — Building of the Hospital at Maravilla. Works of Public Interest Executed. 351 The De Soysa Museum and the Lying-in Home at Colombo. Panadura Hospital. Schools. — Schools at Koralawelle ; Prince and Princess of Wales' Colleges, costing Es. 150,000. Donation, Es.30,000 to St. Thomas' College ; donation to the Jaffna College. Public Eeceptions. — Eeception to the Duke of Edin- burgh, costing £10,000. Establishment of " Alfred Model Farm," £10,000. Societies. — The establishment of the Moratuwa Co- operative Society for the improvement of people. Estab- lishment by Jeronis De Soysa, Mudaliyar, of the Society called Satarana Sarana Samagama — the Gansabawa being the outcome. Impbovements to Town. — By building Fort Offices, Cottages, Slave Island Buildings. Eeliep Funds. — Subscription to Belief Funds. Tkanslation of Books. — Undertook cost of translating Hithopadesa into Sinhalese. Houses. — Building two cottages at Mount Lavinia, the income of which goes towards the expenses of Emmanoiel Church. LiBRABiEs. — Establishment of Library at Moratuwa. Besides various other acts' in Ceylon, too numerous to mention. Add to these the £1,000 which Mr. de Soysa handed to Sir Arthur Birch, Commissioner for Ceylon at the Indian and Colonial Exhibition in September, 1886, for the pur- chase of the fittings of the Ceylon Court as a contribution to the Imperial Institute, and £500 in cash for these Insti- tutions; and £1,000 given to the London Hospitals as a memento of his first visit to England, in November, 1886. APPENDIX XIV. BENEFACTIONS BY S. D, A. EAJEPAKSE, Esq. Enteetainment.^To the sailors of the men-of-war which brought His ^oyal Highness the Prince of Wales to Ceylon : E3,000. CoNTKiBunoN TO THE Cqloubo " Friend-in-Need'Society." — In commemoiration of the visit to Ceylon of their Eoyal Highnesses, Albert Victor and George, the sons of the Prince of Wales : El.OOO. CONTEIBUTION TO THE CoiMUBO " FbIEND-IN-NeED SoCIETY." — To help the Society when it was in want of funds: El, 000. ' Eajefaese Pbize. — Annual yalae, ElOO. Iga connection with the Eoyal College, Colombo. Eajepaksk Pbize. — For midwifery, in connection with the Medical College, Colombo. Annual value, ElOO. Weeresinghe Peize. — To perpetuate the memory of A. W. M. Weeresinghe, in connection with St. Thomas's College, Colombo. Annual value, ElOO. Endowed " Duke of Edinburgh's Scholarship. — IiI commemoration of the visits of His Eoyal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh to Ceylon ; Principal E8,000 ; in con- nection with St. Thomas's College, Colombo. Endowed "Gregoe* Schol/^rship." — In commemoration of the eminent services of Sir W. H. Gregory, K.C.M.G., as Governor o'f Ceylon ; Principal, E8,000 ; in connection with St. Thomas's College, Colombo. Endowed " Prince op Wales' Exhibitions." — In com- memoration of the visit of His Eoyal Highness the Prince of Wales ; Principal, E10,000 ; in connection with St. Thomas's College, Colombo. Benefactions hy S. D. A. Rajepakse, Esq. 353 CoNTRIBtJTION TO THE " GrEGOKY StATUE." lu COm- memoration of the administration of the Government in Ceylon by Sir W. H. Gregory, K.C.M.G. : E5,000. CoNTMBUTiON TO THE " Galle Clock Tower." — Erectecl in commemoration of the eminent services of P. D. Anthonisz, Esq., M.D. : R3,600. Contribution. — To the relief of the villagers distressed by the flood of 1872 : R2,000. APPENDIX XV, [As a curiosity and of special interest to English readers, •wc give the following " Genealogical Tree " of one 6f Cey- lon's worthiest sons and most generous philanthropists.] GENEALOGICAL TABLE, - SHOWING THE DESCENT OP S. D. A. EAJEPAKSE, MUDALIYAB OF HIS excellency's gate, and j.p. fob the island. B. J). A. Eajepakse,: Mudaliyar of the Grand Konda. A. D. A. Kajepalfse,: MahaVidane, Mu- daliy ar of Welitara District. :Danghter of Lewis Mendis Wickremanaike, Atta- patoo Mudaliyar of Maha Badda. A. D. A. Eajepakse, Mndliyar+Caroline de Soyza Wijey- of Mulwal and Welisara sirriwardena. Districts B. D, A. Eajepakse, Mudaliyar of His Excellency's Gate, and J.P. for the Island. FUKTHEB PAETICTJLAKS. S. D. A. Eajepakse's Carlo de Miranda, First Inter- ) tit * i n j li. • 4. J n^ ■ t\/r j r t\ Maternal Grandmother s preter and Chief Mudaliyar of V Grandfathpr the Maha Badda. . j ^a^dlather. Solomon de Miranda! First In- terpreter and Chief Mudaliyar of the Maha Badda. B, de Zoysa Eajepakse, Maha ) ^^ i. i n x i Vidane Mudaliyar of Maha I Maternal Great-grand- Bartda. 1 ^^^^^^- S. de Zoysa Eajepakse, Cappina ) ht ■ ■ , ,, •,, ., Mudaliyar, and MudaHyar of (Maternal Grandfather. Calna Modera District. j Maternal Grandmother's Father. Genealogical Table. 355 GENEALOGICAL TABLE, TBACING THE DESCENT OF S. D. A. KAJEPAKSE (THROUGH HIS mother) to OABIiO DB MIRANDA, FIRST INTERPBETEK AND CHIEF MUDALITAR OF THE MAHA BADDA. Carlo de Miranda, First Interpreter q:: and Chief Mudaliyar of the Maha Badda. Solomon de Miranda — ^First Interpreter andqr Chief Mudaliyar of the Maha Badda. j Susana de Miranda :f Solomon de Sosa Eajepakse, ^1 Kappina Mudaliyar. Caroiine:f A. T>. A. Eajepakse, Mudaliyar of I Mutwal and Welisara Districts. S. D. A. Eajepakse, Mudaliyar of His Excellency's Gate, and J. P. for the Island. FURTHER PARTICULARS. S. D. A. Eajepakse's (Mudaliyar) Mother's Father. — S. de Zoysa Eajepakse, Kappina Mudaliyar. and Mudaliyar of Eakia Modera District. S. D. A. Eajapakse's Mother's Grandfather (father's father). — ^E. de Zoysa Eajepakse, Maha Vidane Mudaliyar of Maha Badda. S. D. A. Eajepakse's Father. — A. D. A. Eajepakse, Mudaliyar of Mutwal and Welisara Districts. S. D. A. Eajepakse's Grandfather. — A. D. A.. Eajepakse, . Maha Vidane Mudaliyar of Welitara District. S. D. A. Eajepakse's Great-grandfather. — B. D. A. Eaje- pakse. Mudaliyar of Grand Eonda. S. D. A. Eajepakse's Paternal Grandmother. — The daughter of Lewis Mendis Wickremauaike, Attapatoo Mudaliyar of Maha Badda. 5. D. A. Eajepakse's Maternal Great-grandfather. — ■ E. de Zoysa Eajepakse, Maha Vidane Mudaliyar of Maha Badda. S." D. A. Eajepakse's Maternal Grandfather. — S. de Zoysa Eajepakse, Cappiua Mudaliyar, and Mudaliyar of Calna Modera Districts. 6. D. A. Eajepakse's Maternal Grandmother's Father. — 856 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Solomon de Miranda, First Interpreter and Chief Muda- liyer of the Maha Badda. S. D. A. Eajepakse's Maternal Grandmother's Grand- father. — Carlo de Miranda, JFirst Interpreter and Chief Madaliyar of the Maha Badda. APPENDIX XVI. COLOMBO AND THE BUDDHIST TEMPLE AT KELANIYA. The following lively description by Julian Thomas (" The Vagabond" of the 2Ielboi(rne Ai-giis), of his two days' visit to Colombo, will be read with interest :— " The eleventh morning out from Albany, at daylight, Point de Galle or Matara is visible. Low shores, then rolling foothills, tlien a high mountain chain towering into the clouds ; over all, the peculiar soft olive-blue haze which denotes the presence of dense tropical vegetation. White mist lies in the valleys, giving the appearance of lakes overshadowed by the mountains. I am reminded of the Gulf of Darien as I first saw it twenty years ago at early morn. Tennent well says that this island, from whatever direction it may be approached, ' unfolds a scene of loveliness and grandeur unsurpassed, if it be rivalled, by any land in the universe.' "From the sea, Ceylon appears like the mountain region of Otago, New Zealand, planted in the midst of a tropical garden. Verily 'every prospect pleases ' here. Now and then in the dense coconut grove one sees glimpses of colour in a red-tiled roof or brown thatch. There is a heavy population — nearly three millions — in a country one-sixth less than the area of Ireland, and a large portion of which is covered by mountain ranges. A large number live, if not entirely on the water, at least by the products of the sea. Pishing catamarans are sailing up and down the coast, and we pass many of them lying-to and drawing in their nets. The style of boat is known to every school- boy. It is nearly the same as the ivoja canoe of the South 358 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Seas. The sixty miles coasting voyage between Galle and Colombo is altogether one of the most beautiful in the world. We see Kalutara at the mouth of a large river. A charming settlement this, twenty-seven miles south of Colombo, with which it is connected by railway, being known as the Eichmond of Ceylon. Twenty miles farther on is Mount Lavinia, another popular seaside resort, where a monster hotel bids for custom. And now the shore becomes dotted with bungalows, there is a break in the palm grove, and Colombo is ahead. A city of high buildings, towers, cupolas, red-tiled roofs, open spaces, flowering trees, green lawns — a magnificent capital of 120,000 inhabitants, a mixture of Shanghai and Old Panama and Honolulu. Verdure everywhere, colour everywhere, Ufe everywhere. We round Sir John Coode's Breakwater, and in the harbour are ships of many nations — British, French, Italian, and German steamers, an English gunboat, and native sailing craft of an infinite variety. A brigantine well-sailed passes us. She is of English build, but is manned entirely by blacks, Bound this to the Eastern Maldives or the coast of India. But it is strange to see the children of Ham ' running ' a vessel of their own. The Australian is here brought face to face " with the fact that there is a civilization other and older than his own. Catamarans of all sorts and sizes crowd around the vessel. Every variety of Oriental race and costume is represented. The light-brovm native Sinhalese, with their long black hair secured by huge tortoisesheU combs, have an effeminate appearance which makes new chums mistake all the males for women. The conquering Tamils, from Southern India, are darker and more manly. There are Hindus of every cast and style of undress — 'Moormen,' tambies, tall muscular Afghans, Parsees and Chinese, swarthy Malays, and Eurasians (fat and oily) of Dutch and Portuguese descent. All from the magnifi- cently attired dealer in the precious stones of Birmingham to the scantily-clad boatmen, appear to have been waiting from their creation for the arrival of the Rome to screech at us in a babel of tongues ; to rush up the gangway and storm us with applications to buy ; to be filled with an overpowering desire to take away our washing, or to carry us oflf to the Grand Oriental Hotel or the Galle Face Hotel. And as they fight and yell on one side of the ship, there Colombo and the Buddhist Temple at Kelaniya. 359 comes a choras from the other, ' Habbadibe! Habbadibe!' which, bemg interpreted, means, ' Have a dive,' signifying that the hundreds of httle rascals, nearly naked, who are floating about on pieces of wood, or paddling frog-like in the water, are willing to dive for our amusement and their own profit after any silver coins we may throw overboard. ' Good-day, Sahib ; Habbadibe ! Habbadibe ! ' they shout, keeping a sing-song time. A sixpence or a shilling dropped into the water sends fifty pairs of legs into the air ; for a second the white soles of their feet are seen, another second, and arms and heads flash up again, and one of the lads shows the coin before pouching it like a monkey. Sometimes a fight takes place, but it is of a bloodless character. " Colour is the prevailing feature ; a red waist cloth or a rag hound round the head, contrasting with the dusky skins, has an effect which, en masse, pleases the eye. Nothing can make our Australian larrikins beautiful, but the meanest Oriental here is picturesque. To our colonial- born youth these natives suggest so much. Visions of the Arabian Niglits are conjured up. Those of us who have read the Thousand and One Tales, think of Aladdin and Sinbad, of the' Old Man of the Sea, and the Hunch back of Bagdad, as celebrated in literature as he of Notre Dame. Many of us make up our minds to do the Haroun al Easchid's trick here, and see what adventure may happen to the adventurous. But first to get ashore. I let a Moorman, ' Abdallah ' by name, a runner for the Grand Oriental Hotel, take possession of me, and form one of a party in a steam launch which for sixpence a head lands us on the quay. Two minutes' walk to t^ie hotel. I engage a room, and then a carriage, and with ^ibdallah, who professes he knows all the city, I drive around Colombo. I have first three well-known men to see and interview — Arabi Pasha, Mr. John Ferguson, and Colonel Olcott. Ahmad Arabi, Egyptian exile, lives at Elizabeth House, Mackenzie Place, in the Cinnamon Gardens. The residence is an ordinary bungalow, with no particular style about it. The Malay policeman who receives my card expresses his doubts as to whether the ' Badger,' as he pronounces ' Pasha,' will see me. But Arabi and myself have mutual friends, and I soon have the pleasure of shaking hands with him and Yacoob Samy, another 360 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. exile. We have cigarettes and coffee, and Arabi, who now speaks English fairly well, expresses his pleasure at hearing that Colonel J. M. Morgan is United States Consul at Melbourne. We do not talk politics, and in truth our conversation is limited. It is very strange to think that this quiet-looking gentleman in the fez was five years ago master of Egypt. A son of the soil, a fellah, whose kindred are bare-footed tillers of earth, Ahmad Arabi is the most remarkable man in his country since the days of Mahomet Ali. ' The Wallace of Egypt,' I once styled him to an enthusiastic Scotchman in the 'Ear North ' of South Australia. " I do not think there is a city in the world so beautiful in the luxuriant verdure which clothes it as this. As one di-ives about Colombo the botanist has great pleasure in noting the trees, the flowers, and the shrubs. One ad- mires the graceful waving coconut palms {cocas nucifera), tlie plumes of the betel palm (areca catechu), of which Dr. Hooker wrote — ' The cultivated areca raises its graceful head and. feathery crown like an arrow shot from heaven in luxuriance and beauty above the verdant slopes ; ' and the fan beauty of the Travellers' tree {reevenela Madagas- carensis). You pass along avenues where Suriya trees [ihespesia populnea) cast their shade, with their poplar- like foliage and large yellow flowers ; you notice the heart- shaped leaves and yellow-pink flowers of the tulip tree, often used to line a garden wall or rail. Great specimens of the pterocarpus mdictfs' spread their shady boughs over- head. Now you see your familiar friend, the silky oak iGrevillea robusta) lining the roadway with yellow flower- heads hiding among the fringe-like leaves. Beside the bungalows are Australian she-oaks [casuarina equisilifulia), their height and vigour of growth here being remarkable. Banyans with hanging aerial roots stand beside that beautiful sight, the Elamboyante, or flame tree (poinciava regia), with its large feathery, twice-pinnate leaves and bunches of scarlet flowers. There, too, is the sacred Bo tree (Jicus religiosa) of the Buddhists, whose aspen leaves have the midribs.prolonged into a tail-hke extremity. As you listen to the rattling, rustling noise of the leaves shaken by the wind, you think of the superstition of the Hindus that connects this with the spirits of their departed Brahmins. The green foliage is exquisite, and the shade Colovibo and the Buddhist Temple at Kelaniya. 361 most inviting. Here is the coral tree (erythrina indica), bearing triangular leaves and curled combs of scarlet flowers on the topmost boughs. You notice the palmate foliage and warty bark of the eriodendron anfructuosum. The bauhinia purpurea and vai-iegata add their share of shade and colour. Among the leaves, shaped into two rounded halves, long pods hang at this season. There is an airiness and lightness about the great tamarinds {tamarindus indicus) ; from the at present bare boughs of the silk cotton tree {bojnhax malabaricum) hang round pointed pods just bursting to shower flakes of wliite down over their neighbours. This cotton is used for stuffing pillows and mattresses here. A grand tree is the Ceylon oak (scherchera trijnga), so hke in general appearance to the British oak. Beside it grows the large-leaved carrega arhorea, and overspreading the roadway is the rain tree or inga saman (calliandra fuaman), havings foliage somewhat like the false acacia, and crown-shaped flower heads of pink colour. .The air is perfumed with the fragrance emitted from the white flowers of the frangipanni, that with long leaves "cluster at the end of the thick naked shoots. " Besides all these, cultivated for their beauty and their shade, one sees great groves of fruit trees, the jak trees {artocarpus integrifolia), so much grown by the natives, whose huge fruit, hanging from the boughs and trunk, varies in weight when ripe between 301b and 501b. The pulp containing -the albuminous seeds tastes very 'ike a banana. Bread-fruit trees (artocarpus incisa), closely allied to the above, you notice in the groves, also the plan- tain and bananas raise their broad light-green leaves among them with clusters of fruit. Many are the mango trees (manganifera indica) planted about. A noble tree is the vrild bread-fruit [artocarpus nobilis), its large vein-fur- rowed leaves casting a delightful shade. Most beautiful are the gardens — a wealth of colouring, a luxuriance of vegetation. ' There axe hedges of aclypha tricolor, whose leaves are variegated, yellow, red and brown ; and also of aclypha bicolor, tinted green and yellow, with the pea- cock flower {poinciava pulchen-itna), and borderings to the pathways Of feathery aralia Guilfoylii, called after our own botanist. In the shade of the great trees and palms around the bungalows grow innumerable species of crotons. 862 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. mingling their many-tinted leaves, showing all shades between brown, purple, yellow, red and green. There, too, flourishes the hibiscus, whose bright, scarlet flowers catch your eye. One variety is called the " shoe-flower," because you can blacken and polish your boots with its crushed petals. You see these plants in the hedge-rows mingling with an arborescent sunflower [stifflia crysaniha). Here, again, are the pninsettia pulcherrima, with its bright scarlet, calycine leaf-like bracts, and the ever-flowering oleander (nerium oleandtr). A curious specimen is the potatoe tree {solarium ma4yraniha), resembling a great over- grown potatoe plant. The £xquisite purple of the bougain- villea ipictabilis overspreads ver.andah8 and arbours, and alamandas add their yellow blossoms. Now and then you see a spathodea — large-leaved, and bearing great red flowers. Often you notice the orange vermilion blossoms of the West IndiaQ coast bramble (lantava mixta), intro- duced by Lady Ward from Australia, and now fast over- spreading th3 waste land of the island. . At intervals, great clumps' of bamboo add their feathery beauty, and you even see the castor oil. tree {ricinu9 communis) grown in gardens, with occasionally the nutmeg (myristica officirifLlis). Add to these the cinnamon, and there is such a wealth of botany and floral beauty in Colombo as you will find nowhere else in the world ; and the most extraordi- nary thing is, that all this beautiful and useful vegetation has been imported, none of the trees and plants I have mentioned being indigenous to Ceylon. But Ceylon is still essentially a Buddhist country, the nominal followers of this form of faith forming nearly 62 per cent, of the popu- lation. The Buddhists are divided into two sections, the Siamese and Burmese, and I believe they quarrel as much as the High and Low Ckorch factions in England. It is the former who have possession of Vidyalankara College and Temple at PeUyagoda, near Eelani, whither I am driving to-day.. There are two very eminent Buddhist priests here, a printing press is in operation, and an Oriental library is being built. But it is to see the people at their festival that I drive out to Kelani. Certainly I am satisfied, for I never expect again to witness such a picturesque throng. All Ceylon and Colombo seem to be en route to Grand Pass, three miles from the city, where Governor Sir Edward Barnes, in 1825, built a bridge of Colombo and the Buddhist Temple at Kelaniya. 363 boats across the Kelani river. Young and old, male and female, singly or in families, on foot or in bollock ' hackeries,' the natives — Sinhalese and Tamils — are trooping into the country, all clad in new and striking coloured garments, all bearing flowers, all picturesque, making up en masse a picture of laughing life seldom to be met ■with. Men and women wear two garments, the skirt, sulu or kilt, and the upper j acket or scarf. The brighest hues of Manchester are displayed in the prints. The men sport great tortoise-shell combs in the hair, whilst the women adorn theirs with pins. Sometimes the hair hangs straight and sleek down the back. All have umbrellas to protect themselves from the sun, and all are alike in the outward resemblance of the sexes. The dress and combs and hair confuse a stranger, and he knows not E ve from Adam. "A bullock 'hackery' is a' vehicle only known in the East. Small, humped cattle, the size of Shetland ponies, are harnessed roughly to carts without springs, which, covered with thatch, often contain two floors, on which the passengers, however, have to lie down. Sometimes one comes across a bullock drawing a light buggy, and trotting along briskly. By Brahmin and Buddhist alike the cow is held to be a sacred animal. They must not eat its flesh. But they ill-treat these poor httle buUocks in a manner which arouses my indignation. The patient beasts are especially suffering on this day when the faith- ful are hurrying to the shrine of him, who, of all men, most enjoined humanity to the brute creation. Two little animals are drawing, perhaps, a family of a dozen. Blows and oaths are showered on them without ceasing, and my soul is wroth within me ; otherwise this is a perfect after- noon. After crossing the bridge of boats at Grand Pass you drive along a narrow road bordered by coco-palms and bananas and tamarinds. But there is never any distance without habitations. Some of mud, red tiled, are permanent abodes ; others of thatch, seem erected by the roadside just for these days of festival. Food and flowers are for sale everywhere. Never save in the city of Mexico have I seen so many flowers as here. The whole country seems full of them. There is an overpowering fecundity of nature in Ceylon — all around, in still life, in the animals, in the human race, you see it — everything is increased and multiplied abnormally. This might well be the birthplace 364 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. of our race ; a man need not be a patriaroh here to be BuiTounded by troops of grandchildren. And so laughingly exchanging greetings with the pilgrims, whom my Muham- madan driver, I daresay, curses a good deal, the time passes till, two miles from Kelani railway station, we enter Petiyagoda. The throng by this time is immense. There have been special trains from Colombo in the after- noon, and thousands are trudging along the road, on foot or riding in hackeries. Unhappily for them the rain has commenced to fall heavily. " There is a regular bazaar around the entrance to the temple. Everything, it seems, can be bought here. This is the great harvest of the stall-holders. On this, their New Year's Day, the Sinhalese ' indulge in the few amuse- ments they enjoy, and in such ° luxuries as they can afford.' One of these luxuries consists in having their fortunes told by astrologers, who predict the propitious hours in the approaching year on which to commence duties, pleasures or journeys. I wonder if the astrologers foresaw or fortold the abominable weather on this fete day. However, I am here, and must see it through. At the bottom of the steps I am' taken possession of by an emasculate-looking individual, who informs me that he is the temple giiide. He is a full-blooded Sinhalese and acknowledges to the name of Perera. This, with Fernando and De Silva, is as common in Ceylon as Smith, Jones and Brown are in England. There are no end of 'Des'and ' Dons,' too, in the Directory. This is the remnant of the Portuguese occupation. Many of these high-sounding names belong to full-blooded ' niggers,' whose ancestors were baptized by the Eoman Catholic missionaries, but who relapsed into Buddhism on the first chance. I tell Perera I shall call him ' Peter,' to which he cheerfully assents. And I inform Peter that I am a Buddhist, ' higher up ' than his priests, as he can plainly see. He treats me with an accession of respect, whether real or fictitious I know not, and we walk off to see the relics. There are a number of curious, silver statuettes, which may be idols dug up on this spot where, before the advent of Buddhism, Vishnu and other male and female deities were worshipped. One god, Wibhisana, is still held in repute here, having a local reputation among the ignorant, although the educated Buddhist despises such supersti- Colombo and the Buddhist Temple at Kelaniya. 365 tions. Then I am taken to the great show. In a paviUon there is a placard in Enghsh. ' The bones of Buddha may now be seen.' ' The bones of Buddha ' at this temple on a silver dish under a glass case are not much of 'a show. They appear like a very decayed tooth smashed up, and do not impress me, although, naturally, I give my contribution towards building the library for which the plate is held out here. My rupee inspires more respect and faith in my Buddhism. " Architecturally, all Buddhist temples are alike. The Dagoba is the principal feature in all. Derived from dhatu-garba, the matrix or receptacle of a relic, a dagoba is a mere bell-shaped tomb of brick or stone, covered often with a preparation of lime, forming a sort of chunani, which receives a high polish. The Dagoba is surmounted by a spire and enclosed by a row of pillars. The Dagoba — the imitation of the tomb of Buddha — is a useless piece of work, as for that matter church spires are, unless when used as landmarks. The shrines around, where the praying takes place, are ordinary buildings. Peter leads me through the crowd to the sacred altar, behind which is a gigantic painted wooden figure of Buddha, and of several gods or saints. Peter is anxious to explain to me that the Great God Almighty is not here, but that He will come some day, incarnated in a new Buddha. I marvel that all over the world there should be the same belief in an earth god — that we should ever make Him in our own image. Buddha's injunction was, ' Abstain from all sin, acquire all virtue, repress thine own heart.' " APPENDIX XVII. STATISTICS OF CEYLON EAILWAYS. (PREPAKED BY J. FEBO0SON.) See The Eailuay Map inserted at end of the Volume. Qange, 5 feet 6 inches, same as Indian Lines. Lines. Miles. Total Cost. Bs. „ ,,., Speed Traffic Per Mile. ^U^H^ipt^i^ "'• Perhr, 1885. Es. 27i 21 17,384,830* 2,674,627 2,192,214 220,790 288,358» 25 1,648,940 249,869 248,673 19,867 Peradeniya and NawalapUiya . . Colombo and Kalntara Branch line Mahara . Junction and Mahara Quarry Free property of the Colony . . Eandy and Matale (irith debt of £275,000 Nawalapitiya and Nannoya (with debt ol £900,000) Railways complete and working Dimbula-TTva (Hapntale Section) Kalutara and Bentota Section 157,331 84,823 88,336 20 25 15 i2ii 174 41i 181 22,472,461 8,391,952 10,778,000 184,000 (Average) 193,966 256,600 22 (Av.) 20 12 2,167,349 73,044 366,927 36,687,418 202,417 ! 18 (Average) ' (At.) 2,607,320 Already Surveyed and Estimated. .\^ . 6,600,000+ 650,000 254,902 61,000 12 25 Total Miles 216). Traffic Receipts in 1885 as above Es. 2,607,320 Working Expenses and Improvements to Lines . < . . . . 1,467,699 Profit Es. 1,139,621 Or nearly four per cent, on total capital cost, although the full benefit of the expenditure on Nanuoya Line can only be realized when the ex- tension reaches Hapntale, where the new Uva traffic is tapped. * This includes large amount wasted by Limited Company, afterwards paid off. t This is the Consulting Engineer's estimate, but with the experience of rock and earth work gaiiied on the Nanuoya Section, it is believed that Es. 5,000,000 or Es. 200,000 per mile will suffice for the Hapntale Section if constructed by the P. "W . Department. APPENDIX XVIII. CASTE IN CEYLON. In illustration of the remarks on pages 39-40, and 251, ■we may refer here to evidences of a very unfortunato revival of caste feeling in the ntral districts of Ceylon. This is attributable, in the opinion of many observers — among the natives more particularly — to an influence emanating from the present Governor, Sir Arthur Gordon, who has, most unfortunately, in public utterances, official documents, and ceremonies, made much of " natives of birth," and led the agents of Government and native headmen, and through them, minor officials, to believe that caste distinctions may well be revived. As a conse- quence, there have been many quarrels, assaults, and even minor riots in native villages owing to caste animosities and jealousies which were supposed so have died out. The people who consider themselves of the higher castes are now on the qui vive in many places to resent those of alleged lower castes dressing themselves above the waist, or on more than one shoulder, using jackets or combs for their hair, which, under the benign and civilizing influence of past Governments, had become an almost universal practice among the people. Governor Sir William Gregory in his tours through the island, especially the remoter parts where caste distinctions lingered longest, specially discouraged any caste or dress distinctions, and even censured Government officers for allowing people of so-called " lower castes " to appear with their bodies (women as well as men) not properly covered from the waist'' upwards. This did much to encourage dressing, self-respect, and even a mild ambition among the Indus- S68 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. trious classes, and provoked no jealousy, because even a Governor's word, or even nod, is law to the Sinhalese of all ranks. About 1880, however, in a translation of Kandyan laws made in manual form, partly under official auspices, entitled " Niti-Niganduwa," an attempt was made to classify different castes, and within the past -three years, it is said, rightly or wrongly, this classification — (effected so as to exalt one caste) — has been as good as recognized at all Government oflSces. This has provoked much angry feeling, and amidst a great deal of discassion in the native press and much pamphleteering, two pro- ductions especially have come under our notice. The writer of these in a private note thus expresses himself in answer to our inquiries as to the reasons which led him to publish : — "June 9, 1887. " Sib, — Though I oannot say that I wrote the review of ' Niti-Nigan- duwa ' with an unruffled mind, yet I can assure you that I wrote the ' Chaturvarnaya ' with the best of feelings. I have been a con- stant reader of the Observer for the last thirty or forty years, and I have the happiness of being personally known to you, therefore I say it with all sincerity that it is neither from the Government nor from our countrymen that we can expect to get some relief from the griev- ances under which we now labour, but from you. Ten or twelve years ago there was a Muhandirain of the tom-tom beater caste. He was not only using his crooked comb and the high comb, but on State occasions he was using bis sword and belt, and nobody ever thought of molesting him ; but now there is a feeling abroad that Government now recognizes caste — hence the late tragedy at Attidiya. A registrar of marriages in the Southern Proviiice lately objected to a marriage party coming to his premises in carriages, and did not give a chair even for the bride or bridegroom, though they were a respecta.ble class of people. — Yours obediently, ." From the pamphlets themselves we quote as follows : — From "A Review of Niti-Niganduwa and the Caste-System in Ceylon.'' By W. W, Colombo, 1885. — " While wealth, science, and general knowledge have been advancing with astonishing rapidity, bigotry, pride, and- prejudice in a section of our community have made still more gigantic strides, and threaten, to outrun all the efforts hitherto made to arrest their progress. Without in the least degree trying to help thfeir countrymen in their onward cotiree, they are always trying to aggrandize themselves and to secure a monopoly of Government high posts and ranks showing that they are entitled to them by birth. ... " It might, perhaps, be asked, was not the late Louis De Zoysa Maha-Mudaliyar, that well-known oriental scholar, a. man of the Salagama caste, and yet was he not promoted to the highest rank Caste in Ceylon. 369 which a native can'aspiie to ? Yes : every man is in some degree the mirror of his age. . . , " Mr. De Zoysa's age was an age attempting, with a strong, unre- laxed, endeavour to be earnest, persevering, and ambitious. Com- pulsory labour having been aboUshed, and amalgamation of classes having taken place, the peasant had been shown how he might rise to be noble ; the homy-handed craftsman how he could tread the paths which lead to the highest places of national distinction ; and the humble scholar how he could advance into the saloons of great- ness. . . . " Mr. De Zoysa was allowed to climb up to the summit of the hill of ofiScial promotion ; but his followers, like the Jews of old, are obliged to wander about in the wilderness. The Government since then, forsaking the liberal and enlightened policy of the former Governors, and instead of making an outward progress in the right direction, is now pursuing a downward course. ... " A paragraph in the issue of the Ceylon Observer ot the 27th July, 1885,* having given us occasion for alarm we traced out its origin to the existence of a book printed at the Government Press so far back as the year 1880 ; since then it has been in circulation through the hands of Government officials. That work, though entitled ' Niti- Niganduwa, or the Vocabulary of Law,' has in it, headed ' Historical,' a chapter .embodying a distinctive classification of castes with the assertion that the ' Gowiya is considered the chief caste in this king- dom.' What induced the compiler in getting up a, Vocabulary' of Law to insert therein a classification of castes, and to state the superiority of the caste to which he belongs, is a problem which has to be solved. A man of ordinary intellect and common sense will easily divine the mystery and the object of the compiler to be to secure for himself as an author a prominent post under Government, whilst his showing will induce the Government to hold such others of his community in such estimation as to obtain for them a monopoly of the most honourable and lucrative offices to which natives are eligible. That book, though printed in the year 1880, it is strange " * The paragraph referred to is as follows : — ' Casie Re-established IN Ceylon. — This may be news to some readers of the Observer. Others have already known and felt this. The Portuguese and Dutch with all their old-world ideas and crude notion of things never stooped to the meanness of upholding the senseless, absurd system of caste. But it has been left to the British Government and to enlightened statesmen of the Liberal school to re-establish caste in Ceylon. It is said that a brochure on caste, as it existed amongst the Sinhalese, was got up under weU-known local auspices, printed in England, and dis- tributed amongst influential members of the Civil Service. But the absurd part of the story is that Sir Arthur Gordon regards it in the light of the Englishman's Bible, an authority beyond question like DoJ or Debrett. According to this authority appointments, as well as prcformonts to honorary rank and title, are to be confined to a few families ; the rest arc to be discarded. The Clerical Examination Scheme is to be done away with. Go on, brave Sir Arthur ! Go on in the same style, and we shall have cause to thank you as one of Ceylon's benefactors ! — Com.' 25 370 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. to observe, made its way through Government Departments in such a manner that either none (excepting those of the community who ex- pected to be benefited) or very few of the other classes were aware of its existence and the havoc it was playing, till the appearance of the paragraph referred to. . . . " The reason why most of the Gowiyas have succeeded so far in securing to themselves lucrative and responsible ofSces under the Government is attributable to the fact (which is now evinced) that it lias been for a series of years past their objfeot, if not the motto, to im- press uppn new officials and heads of Departments, as far as possible, that they are the leading members of the native community and that -to them exclusively belonged posts of responsibility and honour under the Government. , . . "But justice compels us to say that caste has no claim on any right-thinking mind ; for, as a system, ' it is founded on a lie,' ' it puffs up certain classes with pride,' ' it keeps many of our people in social d^radation,' 'it divides man from man,' it concentrates all religion in outward ceremony,' and 'it is a great obstacle to pro- gress.' . . . "What is the object of introducing a list of castes into the Niti- Nigandnwa ? Are we to understand from it that caste is to be An- glicized, and receive the sanction of the Legislature, that different occupations, professions, and trades may be made hereditary and preserved in an unbroken line ? If Tikiri Appu, the son of an ordinary peasant whose father, grandfather, or great-grandfather had never held any ofSce under the late Kandyan Government or under the present British rule, has pushed his way into a prominent situation, and into power and influence, we ask, .what evil has he done ? Whom has he injured ? Has Tikiri Appu by his success robbed another of industry, talent, application, or energy? Does not Tikiri Appu deserve the signal honour and emolument won by hard study and patient perseverance ? Has Loku Appuhami, the grandson of TJnam- buwe Dissawa, a reckless young maij who has squandered away his patrimonial estate in profligacy, a just ground of complaint against the success of Tikiri Appu ? Are we to understand that every native is to toddle, in unbroken generations, in the foot-prints of his father and grandfather ? Why ? that would hurt the feelings of most of the up-country Eatemahatmeyas and low-country MndaUyars and reduce them from their hard-won eminence into the degradation of sluggish cultivators and drowsy cow-herds. If such be the views of Messrs. Pana- bokke and Co., ene thing is pretty certain, viz : — others will not gratify -them by thinking as they think. ' No, no,' says honest, true humanity, ' Let those who have won a position by fair means enjoy it.' ' Yes,' murmur the objectors, ' let the past be past, but keep down others.' Why ? Where is the reason of this, or the justice ? If some might struggle honourably for eminence, why not others also ? If some have attained eminence, and hold it as legitimate standing ground, why wonder at, much less complain of, aspirants for like success by sinular means? . . . " The great difficulty of arriving at a fair and reasonable conclusion as to the number and order of castes in Ceylon, arises from the sup- pression of truth, suggestion of falsehood, and the alteration of his- torical records. So that no two natives will give the same order and classification to all the castes. Such being the case, all the prominent Caste, in Ceylon. 371 classes of natives have a hobby of their own. The Gowiya caste assert now for the first time, as we learn from Niti-Niganduwa, that they are a mixed race of Kshestriyas, Brahmins, and Vaisyas ; the people called Karawe, that they are of a Kshestriya descent ; and the people called Salagama, that they are Brahmins. I shall not enter into a disquisition of that subject now. There are no Kshestriyas, Brahmins, or Vaisyas, properly so called, amongst ns, at present ; for aU the Sinhalese people are now either Buddhists or Christians. And no sooner had we forsaken the Vedas and the Shastras, than, according to the law of "caste, we had become Chandalas or out-oastes. Chris- tianity asserts that dod made all mankind of one blood, which is. a physical fact as easy of demonstration as any truth in natural science; whilst Buddhism repudiates caste, Buddha declares that ' a man be- comes a Brahmin by what he does, and a Wasalaya (an outcast) by what he does.' . . . "It is very . much to be regretted that the Government now a.ppear3 to be under the delusion that the aristocratic class among the Sinhalese is the higher grade of the Gowiya caste, which is indeed a very great mistake ; for there is no aristocratic class among the Sinhalese.; whilst descendents of high Government officials and others to whom various accidents have coiitributed to give an importance among all castes, consider themselves as entitled to lead in their respective spheres. Nor does the Government seem to know that landed proprietors and professional gentry are to be •found among all the prominent castes as well as among the Gowiya caste. There is, therefore, a wide-spread effort among some of the most bigoted of the Gowiya caste, to make the most of the present opportunity ; and hence the work in question is a genuine production of by-gone days, though it existed only in the imagination of those who desired it, realizing the words of Sir Walter Scott : — " 'Oh what a tangled web we weave "When first we practise to deceive 1 ' " True it is that the claims of caste are ignored in the administration of the law; but yet in certain departments they are now guarded with some anxiety, which seems both inconsistent and unnecessary, as it is sometimes construed by the caste men as an authoritative recognition of caste. There is no necessity at all to interfere -with any lawful usage. The Government need not insist on a renunciation of caste as the condition of pubUc employ ; nor should the feelings of any pubUc servants be wounded by an unnecessary intrusion on their prejudices. The question is one of private opinion and feeling, on which every man may be left to his own judgment, provided that Government extend ne advantage to one which is unfair to another. Natives can observe what rules they choose among themselves ; but the public service ought to be ordered exclusively on public considera- tions. I know a Mudaliyar of a certain Eachcheri, an illegitimate son of a very low grade of Gowiya, who puts the question, ' What is your caste ? ' to every native candidate for any post in that Kaohcheri ; and if the man is not one of the Gowiya caste, throws every obstacle in his way, as if being born in that caste were a sure passport for public service in Ceylon. In the public service, it requires clerks. 372 Ceylon in the Jtihilee Year. aoconntants, interpreters, and Mndaliyars of Korales ; and not Kshestriyas, Brahmins, Vaisyas, and Gowiyas who are the servants of the above three castes. Candidates, therefore, have a right to encouragement according to official qualifications alone, without inquiries made regarding their parentage or connections. All castes should be equally and impartially admitted, and "the most qualified will always receive the preference. What is needed, therefore, is to place the test of superiority in the better discharge of duties, and not in the curiosities of a pedigree. Then no distinction shall be known among individuals but those which arise from talent, ability, and integrity of conduct. " A community can make progress only when every member of it has the reward of merit laid open to him ; and capacity and talent for the discharge of duties required in the social state are diffused pretty equally among the different orders of the community. It is, therefore, a very bad policy, if the of&cials of a country, instead of encouraging mutual good will and reciprocal kind attentions, say to the great bulk of the people : ' Neither talents nor exertions shall avail you : you are bom in a degraded caste : you cannot therefore be eligible for Govern- ment posts ! ' A large part of this evil is to be laid to the account of somf of the high officials, who, though not openly, yet tacitly, encourage caste distinctions in the distribution of prizes left at their disposal, according to their own whims and caprices, irrespectively of claims and qualifications. It is, therefore, the duty of a paternal Government to arrest this evil alone by disowning all respect for a folly which is so detrimental to the well-being of a large community such as the Sinhalese, as those in authority in former days did, who arc stiU remembered with the deepest gratitude, as the greatest bene- factors of our country. . . . " According to the present state of our country the union of aE classes in one corporate body is what is most desirable. But can we realize such a consummation so long as there is no peace among all classes ? There is in our community a section ihat has always some complaint, some -cause to grumble, something to be dissatisfied with. They complain that in public schools their children are obliged to sit on the same form with the children of other castes. They grumble that in the railway carriages they have to sit side by side with other castes of people enjoying the comforts and conveniences of the new mode of travelling, like themselves. They are dissatisfied that the Christian women of Talanpitiya, a village of the Paduwas, who, having acquired habits of decency, had left off their old fashion of going half-naked, as if the privilege of covering the bosom were their own peculiar prerogative. . . . " The Oriental mind regards the State as pre-eminently the fountain of honour; and its service is the most coveted, as well as the most profitable profession. The ambition to enter it has, therefore, in this country, always outweighed every objection of caste, rank, and religion itself. . . . " The Portuguese Government freely employed all castes of men in their service, so that one Don Cosmo, a man of the Salagama caste, became a general. And the Dutch Government never refused the services of men of any caste for posts of honour. Under the PHtish Government also the same indiscriminate admission to offices, u.. of old, has been tolerated. . . . Caste in Ceylon. 373 ' ' A great ntuubei of men are now employed in the pablio service. The introduction of railways and the electric telegraph has provided places for many more. But though the passion for public employ continues unabated and VQsatiable, yet is there a single man of the so-called higher order of the Gowiya caste men in the Bailway, Postal, or Telegraph Department ? . . .' " We bdieve it, therefore, to be the paramount duty of a parental Government towards those whom it has -taken under its care and control, not to be predisposed towards one class to the disadvantage of another. " Since of late natives have been admitted to. high offices of trust "with greatly augmented salaries in the Bevenue Department. But was ther^ a single Burgher or a nativejof another caste chosen for any of those places other than the GoWiyas, although there are natives of other castes, as well educated, if not better, who possess so mnch influence in their respective communities, as those that have been already selected possess in their own community. " We trust therefore, that the present Government will continue to bear in mind that Magna Charta of the great body of the Sinhalese declaring that it be 'fully undprstood that it is the principle of this Government to recognize no distinction of caste or colour, the only ground of promotion being talents and qualifications ' penned on the 3rd April, 1841, by no less a personage than the Eight Honourable J. A. Stewart-Mackenzie, one of the most distinguished aild en- lightened British rulers that ever administered the affairs of this island. "After all this controversy, one thing remains now indisputably- clear — that there are in the world only.two castes — the ' good ' and the 'bad.'" "A Pew Thoughts on Ghaturvamaya, or the $'our-fold Social System of Castes." By W. W. Colombo, 1886.—" We sincerely hoped that under the pressure of steam, electricity, European influence, diffusion of knowledge and extension of Christianity, the pernicious caste system in Ceylon would have been, before long, entirely done away with. But we were sadly disappointed in our hopes ; for, whilst these powerful influences are in full operation, a reaction in favour of caste has taken place of late ; and those vrho are benefited thereby have taken advantage of this reaction. . . . " The compilers of ' Niti-Niganduwa' endeavour to show that there are four pringipal and eighteen inferior castes, whereas there are only iour great castes, some mixed castes and out-castes. . , . " According to the strict rules of the caste system no sooner a man has -forsaken Brahminism, than he is an out-caste ;^and loss of caste is equivalent to civil death. The out-caste is denied admission to his father's house ; the nearest relations refuse to eat with him or speak with him. He is excluded from religious ceremonies and social meet- ings. His wife is released ' from the conjugal rights ; his children belong to him no longer ; his property is forfeited. Therefore, as we are no longer Brahmins in religion, we are no longer Brahmins, Kshestriyas, Vaisyas or Sudras. Christianity declares that God has made all men of one blood ; and that God has no respect of persons. Buddhism repudiates caste. Buddha is represented by European writers 374 Ceylon in the Jvhilee Year. as a philosophical opponent of popnlai superstition and BraJiniinical caste. This sage haying enmneiated the qualities he would require in the woman who aspired to be his wife, Qxe king Suddhodana, his father, directed his minister to go into the great city, Kapilawastu, and to enquire there in every house after a girl possessed of these good qualities, showing at the same time the prince's enumeration, and utter- ing two stanzas of the following meaning. ' Bring hither that maiden who has the required qualities, whether she be of the royal tribe or of the Brahmin caste ; of the gentry or of the plebeian class ;. my son regardeth not tribe or family extraction ; hisMelight is in good quali- ties, truth, and virtue alone.' In Nepanl, where Buddhism is professed, the original inhabitants were all of one caste, or had no caste : but their descendants, in the com^e of time, became divided into many castes according to'the trades or professions which they followed ; though even now we are told that in Nepaul caste is merely a popular usage, without the sanption of religion, and altogether a very Afferent thing from caste properly so called. In Tibet and Burma, both Buddhistical countries, caste is unknown. In China there are clans, resembling those of the Scotch Highlanders, but this institution differs from caste, and is pecnliar to this singular country. Bat in Ceylon there appears to have been a greater leaning toward caste than among any other Buddhistical people, which had arisen from their connection with the Tamils. " Some writers assert that the people of this country are of Aryan descent. Yes; so they are to some extent. As Wijaya and his followers came from Wango (Bengal) they may be called Indo-Aryans. But as we learn from ' Malia Wanso ' that he sent for wives for him- self and his associates from amongst the Tamils of Southern India (Madura) in the Pandian kingdom, and that they were accompanied here by eighteen officers of state, together with seventy-five menial servants, we see that at the very outset of the Wijayan dynasty in Ceylon,, there was a commingling of Aryan and Dravidian races. "From that time Tamils bam Southern India coming over to Ceylon, and joining themselves \rith those who arrived at first, a hybrid race called Goviyas arose, half Aryans and half Dravidians ; whilst some of the aboriginal tribes kept themselves aloof from these adventurers. However, in course of time, all were incorporated in one common name, the Sinhalese ; although some of the aboriginal races are no more Sinhalese because they had adopted the Sinhalese language, than the Cornish people are English because they speak the English language. . . . " The Tamil word VeUala also, which the Goviyas have adopted by way of distinction as their caste name, as the word Goviya, means a cultivator. " Mr. Faiiabokke being folly conscious, with these strong and incfEcrovertible evidence before us to the contrary, that he could not maintain the theory of some of his low-country brethren that the Goviyas are Vaisyas — that is, of the Welanda caste — started a new theory, by which as if trying to avoid Scylla, he strack on Charybdis, and made the Goviyas si^ still deeper in the mire, in reducing them to a lower position instead of raising them to a higher one, and in making them a mixed caste. We see, therefore, that the pride of caste is a mere bosh. It is indeed a pity that as a Buddhist he did not take heed of Buddha's words : — Caste in Ceylon. 375 '■ ■ A man does not become low-oaste by birth. Nor by birth does one become high-caste, Eigh-oaj9te is the result of high actions, And by actions does a man degrade himself to caste that is low.' " ' Is there no caste feeling amongst the English ? ' is a question very often put to us by some of our conntiymen ; and our answer had been always ' certainly not.' On the contrary their religion teaches them the ' Fatherhood of God and the Brotherhood of Man,' that caste and class feelings ought to be lud aside, and that there is no respect of person with Ood.' The social institutions of England neither prevent social onion and interchange of ideas between the various classes of society, as those of Ceylon, nor operate to set class against class, to bar the lower rising to the upper, and to make the national union impossible. On the oontnoy, in England all ranks and orders so run into each other and blend -imperceptibly together, that it becomes impossible to separate them into sharply defined strata, or to say where the upper end and thJB middle or the lower begin. "My dear countrymen, we are ^ther. Buddhists or Christians. Therefore, those who now attempt to majTitiMTi unh&Uowed distinctions must be told that all such distinctions have been lost vrith the Yedas and the sacrifices. Caste, in fact, originated like slavery, in a wsxxA races, and breathes still the true spirit of slavery. It is tme that during centuries of this slavery, the iron has entered the sool, that the hereditary bonds- man'now hugs his fetters. Popular prejudices will no doubt long resist the light of truth on this as on other snbjects of education. The attempt to point out to the sticklers of caste that the distinctions' which they consider inviolable have no sanction in their religious books, may be as useless as'to aigne with the devil-dancers that their ceremonies are unauthorized in the Bana-books. But what was the cause of the decline and fall of the Kandian kingdom ? It is this pernicious system of castes. It had become one of the greatest clogs on the advancement of our people, thoroughly preventing improve- ment in our social and political status beyond a certain point. Snch a system, elevating one class and depriving another, kept the ideas of the latter for ever subdued, and entirely snipped from them the aspiration after superiority and influence, which form the greatest incentive to active exertion. ... "Is caste, on the whole, advancing or retrograding in Ceylon ? is a question which cannot but be highly interesting to every lover of his country and every admirer of the present Government. It must, however, be confessed that, considering bll in all, it seems to be now putting on new life and vigour. Therefore, its votaries are now show- ing themselves more openly ; its claims are now more broadly pro- claimed ; and every eDgine,.likely and unlikely, is now being brought to action to maintain its sinking credit. But we sincerely hope that like the giant struggling to retain the breath which is fast leaving his body, its downfall would be equally rapid. For the precedent laid down by the Bight Honourable J. A. Stewart Mackenzie, one of the ablest of our Governors by his Minute of April 3rd, 1841, the Magna Charta of the Sinhalese, declaring that it be 'fully understood that it is the principle of this Government to recognize no distinction of 376 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. caste or colour, the only ground of promotion being talents and qualifi- cations' should not be set at nought by his successors. " To those who are at all acquainted with the natural workings of the human mind in general, and the tendency oJ the caste-system in particular, it can occasion no surprise that caste and irreUgiousness should co-exist to a great extent in the same state of society. This is the case in Ceylon at this moment. " It is a melancholy consideration that of these two mighty delu- sions, a certain portion of our countrymen are the willing subjects who profess to be Christians for public show, but from whose back doors would be &een men of yellow robes wend their way to their houses on poya and other Buddhistical days ; and that to their influence a great part of the miseries of our country is owing. " And it is a fact too palpable to escape observation, and too certain to admit of denial, that those who have no fixed religious principles amongst the better educated classes of our people are the greatest sticklers Of caste. " The purest portion of all moral theories and the highest ideas of all patriots have been gathered from, or will be found concentrated within, the Christian system. Its universal and living acceptance implies the prevalence in every mind of peace, and goodwill, and generosity. If the most accomplished ' thinker ' in society set him- self to frame rules for its reconstruction and transformation into a state of happiness, he would find all his labours concentrated within the short sentence, ' Whatever ye would that others do to you, do ye also to them.' If the most benevolent theorist commenced to form rules for the advancement of individual comfort, and of the comfort of all individuals, he would find his labour useless, because it would issue in the commandttient given with greater power and in more solemnity than when the rocks were shaken, that 'ye love one another.' There "are no more powerful injunctions of universal justice and goodness than these two gentle conamandments ; and if all who profess to obey them even understood what they profess, we should have no more grievances to make, while by-and-by caste with ■all its concomitant evils would be things unknown. They would destroy themselves by transmutation. . . . " One of the greatest dangers to which Missionary schools in this country is now liable, is that of being secularized through Government influence, whereby the whole tenor of some schools, ■their masters, and their pupils, are brought' down to the level of non- Ohristian schools. Is it then surprising that education given in such schools is more secular than reUgious ?. How can it be otherwibe when the whole object of the masters and mistresses of such schools is to reaUze as large a grant as possible from Govemment ? What plan can be more directly calculated to arouse religious hatred, and to give a sectarian direction to education, than to announce to religious bodies that the public purse is open to as many of them as choose to embark in the cause of public instruction, and that the graats to each will be'proportioned to the amount of secular instruction they impart ? By this scheme the Govemment literally rfuounces the idea that education is a matter of common and civil concern, resigns the func- tions of the state into the hands of the people, and gives full rein to the development of religious rivalries. The result is exactly what might be expected. A nondescript sort of education is imparted in Caste in Ceylon. 377 such schools — ^neither a sound religious education, nor a substantial secular education. . " Christianity is the basis of all modern civilization. It is from it that we take our respect for morality, for chastity, for the ties of family ; it is from it that we learn not to covet that which is not our own, and to respect the rights of others ; from it we learn to love even our enemies. Christianity, setting aside its Divine origin, is the foundation-stone of all that is great, alid good, and sublime in human society ; all evils in civilization are departures from the noble tenets of this pure faith ; every form of tyranny and oppression is anti- Christian, and hateful to God. Therefore, Christianity, education, and civilization should go hand in hand. " Christianity, education; and civilization have within the last fifty years made a rapid progress in this country. Still they have much jet to do. They must penetrate not only into our institutions and theories, but they must become the guide and lamp of our actions. " It is, therefore, a sound religious education that would enable our countrymen to strangle the Hydra with its four heads,* which ooUs around theirneoEs. . . . " On a calm and comprehensive review of the state of pur country from the commencement of the British rule here, it is impossible to resist the conviction that, in spite of the best intentions and efforts of Government, in spite of railways and electric telegraphs, and in spite too of. growing trade,and extending commerce, caste feeling amongst the different sections of the community still threatens to be one of the most prolific sources of evils in our country, preventing as it does all mutual good understanding between each other, and making national union impossible. But so long as Government seems to permit one section of the community to say to the other, with respect to political privileges, ' Hitherto shalt thou come, and no further,' this evil shall not cease. Therefore, whether it will increase or diminish wiU entirely depend upon the action of Government, which alone can with a firm hand, as in the renowned days of Governor Sir Colin Campbell, make «ach other shake hands and confess " 'I have sinn'd ; oh, grievously and often ; Exaggerated ill, and good denied.' And advise each — '"Be wiser, kindlier, better than thou art.' . . . " Progress, we are told, characterizes the age. Progress has charac- terized every age. With us, however, progress downward is going on step by step with time. Progress upwards of which the age makes its boast, lags lazily. A large body of men are allowed to grow, up jvith- out any kind of intercourse with those who are placed above them in point of wealth, perhaps intellect, and probably in worth. There are few ties binding together the various sections of the community. ■The circles of this great trunk scarcely touch. A hard rind of pride ^vides them. All are men with many common sorrows and many " * Called Kshestriya, Brahmana, Vaisya, and Sudra ; or. Raja, Bamuna, Welanda, Govi. 378 Ceylon in the Juhilee Year. common objects, but they help not each other. What has been done to their less fortunate oouDtrymen by those who are placed aboTe them in point of wealth, intellect, and worth ? How many of them have gone down amongst them with kindness in their manner and in their hearts, to help them onwards and upwards 7 " It is, however, an encouraging feature of the times that notwith- standing all these discouragements there are such men amongst us as Messrs. Eajapakse and Soysa who do so much for the advance- ment of their countrymen. And if there are some more men like them, then can certainly progress tsharacterize the age. . . . " We know that within the last fifty years, Ceylon, from being an obscure country, has risen to the importance of a rising British Colony, and one of the greatest emporiums in the East, whose exports and imports are not- much less in amount than in any other country in Asia. This is, therefore, no time to clog its advancement by caste and class agitations, legislative enactments, or internal commotions. We know also that the so-called Sinhalese aristocracy is not an aristocracy of birth. . Under the Portuguese and the Dutch Govern- ments, all public functions, civil and miUtary, among the Sinhalese, were hereditary, and gave nobility to the second generation. Hence the son of a Mudaliyar or Munhandiram was called an Appuhami, and the son of an Aratchy or Kankany, an Appu. They were exempt from direct taxation and compulsory labour. And there were Appu- hamies and Appus amongst all the prominent castes of the Sinhalese. Therefore, we see that there is no aristocracy among the Sinhalese resembling the English aristocracy. In England the aristocracy con- sists of men of birth, wealth, and distinction, who have attained to eminence in honourable professions ; but in Ceylon there were Gatteru, Sattambiyo, and Bateberawayo, as Bat^mahatmay&s and E6r^as ; and men of questionable origin, as Mudaliyars and Muhandirams whose descendants now make the greatest noise about birth more than education. In making these remarks our object is to point out the danger into which our country is exposed by these designing men. Its peril does not arise from foreign enemies, but from a dozen crotchety men amongst us, who, adroitly seizing the present favourable opportunity, raise a ' hue and cry,' regarding ' birth and independent means,' as if they were the only men entitled to offices of trust and emoluments among the Sinhalese. "His Excellency the Governor, in his opening address to the Legis- lative Council, was pleased to remark that ' the time has arrived when greater facilities for the attainment of responsible posts in the Govern- ment service should be afforded to natives of birth and education.' We hail the introduction of such a scheme as a great boon to our country ; but the term ' natives of birth,' is a vague and indefinite term * capable of different constructions. Therefore, nothing is more likely to frustrate the good intentions of Government than the be- stowal of such preferments to a single section of the native community, as there are, according to the general acceptation of the phrase, men of ' birth and education ' among all the prominent castes of people in Ceylon. However, * It is a very wrong term, for which " worth " should be sub- stituted. — J. F. Caste in Ceylon. 379 " ' If past experience may attain To something like prophetic strain,' we are afraid that an attempt would be made by a certain section of our commnnity to make this a prerogative of theirs, and to give no small irritation and alarm to others. In that case it would only be a means of creating strife and contention among the natives. We hope, therefore, that the scheme in contemplation would be a compre- hensive and liberal one suited to the present advanced state of our country. " A community can make progress only when every member of it has the rewards of merit laid open to him, and when capacity and talents for the discharge of the duties required by the State are pretty equally diffased among the different classes of the community. Be- sides it would be a most ungenerous principle of legislation if the Government of a country, instead of encouraging mutual good-will and reciprocal kind attentions, should create dissensions and commo- tions in a community, in bestowing preferments on one section of it, which are denied to another section of the same community who have equal claims for such preferments. Such a course wojjld, moreover, not only wage war against every principle of our nature, but paralyze all social, moral, and intellectual improvement in that community. That Budi was the actual state of Ceylon when the English first landed in this country is well known to all who possess any informa- tion on the subject. All the good which the English Government has been hitherto endeavouring to do to the Sinhalese community, there- fore, cannot be folly realized untU the principles of eternal justice (the first principles of all riile and legislation) be applied to remove such unnatural distinctions among our people. " The British Government has given the people of Ceylon a degree and kind of liberty which most of our countrymen had never enjoyed either under the despotic heathen Eandyan kings, or under the benign Christian Government of the Portuguese and the Dutdi. We, there- fore, only seek for the continuance of that liberty and the enjoyment of the essential rights of human nature ; aqd it is in this that the glory and prosperity of a nation properly consist. This we can secure only by the union in all the parts of the State, harmony in them all, and authority over them all, "But these are matters which some of the members of our Legislative Council think beneath their notice. It is enough for them if they can annoy or embarrass the Government, and obtain the reputation among the unreflecting of being active patriots. We have little taste for such patriotism, and little respect for those who profess it. We desire to see in Council men whose minds are large enough to comprehend all the interests of the country, and who will not sufier themselves to be turned aside by petty motives from doing justice to all classes aUke. "Ceylon has never before enjoyed such liberty as she does since the past few years. All classes have fiberty to act and speak in accordance with their convictions. No man is, by reason of his wealth or of his rank, so high as to be above the reach of the law, and none, on the other hand, so poor and insignificant as to be beyond its protection. There is no longer any power in the State, under the influence of a gust of passion, to order a man to be trampled to death by elephants. " Therefore, as the British- Government has so well earned the 380 Ceylon in the Juhilee Year. gratitude and good wishes of all classes of our countrymen, by the unselfish and sincere desire which animates it to promote the welfare of the people committed to its charge, by the soUcitude which it mani- fests to study the feelings and sentiments of the people in all impor- tant matters, and by the spirit of beneTolence which underlies its actions, it is with great pain and remorse we say with respect to the present reaction in favour of caste, which some of its' officials seem to foster, that they " ' See the right, approve it, too ; Condemn the wrong, and yet the wrong pursue.' " British equity has clearly seen that no ideas of religion or honour can be permitted to violate the rights of life, freedom, or property. It remains to give the fuU and legitimate effect to this principle, by protecting human nature at large against the injurious and irrational distinctions of caste. Public schools are not afraid of contradicting the native sciences of astronomy, astrology, geography and medicine, without hurting the feelings of the people. Why should caste be then entitled to greater tenderness, when it is attended by so much injury to the moral and social improvement of the country ? On this account, caste is considered by missionaries a deadlier foe to the moral and religious progress of this country than idolatry itself. Besting as it does wholly upon opinion, repudiation of caste would be welcomed by thousands who have not the courage to effect such an emancipa- tion. . . . " If the strongest argument against slavery be, not the cruelties that are its common adjunct, but its essential injustice, its absolute infraction of a Divine ordinance, its contrariety to the whole provi- dential economy ; then are we led to conclude that there is needed only a candid examination of this kindred evil by the Christian public, and the abolition of caste will be decreed by a power which has already worked marvels that will excite the attention and admira- tion and gratitude of all future generations ; for, wherever the love of Christ is felt in its power and purity, there will be an effort to raise every individual within the sphere of its influence to the highest pinnacle of moral and social dignity he can possibly attain." APPENDIX XIX. THE CEYLON PEARL FISHEEIES IN 1887. {From Letters to the "Ceylon Observer," by A. M. Ferguson, C.M.G.) Mannae, ith ApHl, 1887. The change of scene yesterday on the Pearl banks was from almost dead silence and solitude before dawn to the existence of active operations. Two thousand five hundred persons were on the shore, or in boats and trading vessels. Last evening this number was quadrupled. It is likely to be largely increased, as but short notice could be given of the fishery. The sight of boats starting shorewards at one o'clock yesterday would have delighted an artist's eye. The com- parison suggested was that of doves flocking to "their windows. Eeaching the shore about four o'clock, the oysters had to be carried to the Government enclosures, counted, apportioned, and a third, belonging to the boat- men and divers, sold. The retail trade is going on down to single oysters. Officers of the Highlanders seem determined to add pearl mussels to the enemies whose defences they have successfully carried — for their representative here was determined not to return empty-handed ; but all were surpassedj however, by a great Madras native merchant, who last evening, at an auction held in the lamp-light in the timber and palm-leaf shed, purchased half a million oysters from the eight hundred and forty-two thousand of Government share. His first bid was E35 for a. quarter of a million, but prices went ultimately down to R15. Several chetties complained of a breach of understanding that oi^y B9 be bid. The auction scene was most amns- 382 Ceylon in the Juhilee Year. ing, the purchasers showing much human nature. Mr. Twynam showed admirable patience and tact. We fimed the so-called Arab diver, and got eighty-three seconds, or one over Sir Henry Ward's maximum ; but Mr. Twynam once got ninety-three, or over one and a half minute. Mr. Twynam has seen two men perish from staying under too long. They gasped before reaching the surface, then sunk like lead. Death was caused by asphyxia, or paralysis of the nerves. The lives of the divers are generally good : the vast majority are meat- eating MuhammadanSj closely related to the people of this place, who are really South India settlers^ The heat, scenery and race are all Indian. Whether the Sinhalese, pure Aryan, ■ or mixed, no trace of them at Silavaturai pearl fishery or port. The general portly, weU-fed appear- ance of the Ceylon Indian Tamils is striking. Masses of extraneous matter are taken up with the shells, but thrown away, which would be prized as precious by European naturalists. Pine corals, brilliant scarlet- striped star fishes, pearl shells, and covered growths, generally red coloured. Concrete kottos, or auction booths, are abandoned for mats on ground, the allotted land being defined by coir strings. After the fisheries, the floor was sold and resold at good prices. Purchasers now take oysters to private kottos allotted them at safe distance from inhabited portion. This and other strict sanitary measures, and digging of wells for good water near the beach, make a vast improvement, and cholera has been practically banished. Much credit is due to Mr. Twynam, who is only happy when at work. He seems impervious to sun heat, which is awful. This, with the stench of the putrify- ing, is the reason why Europeans cannot flock to this wonderful romantic sight as to elephant kraals ; it was perfectly sufficient to have one whiff last evening from the kotto where samples were washed. ' Shells are rapidly opening to skates and old womanfish, but more destructive are small whelks, which, if they once effect an entrance, rapidly destroy. Over one hundred boats went off at ten last night. People sleep at the bank, and work from dawn to one o'clock. The pearl fishery divers find it to be so cold at six to eight fathoms (thirty-six to forty-eight feet)— the depth at The Ceylon Pearl Fisheries in 1887. 383 which the oysters are generally found to exist in greatest abundance and healthiness — that they (the divers) are glad to warm themselves in the sun for a while after coming up from the performance of their task. In my telegrams I have mentioned the cases of two divers whom Mr. Twynam saw die from remaining too long under water, and I have suggested as the cause the non-aeration of the blood, or what has lately been noticed as a cause of drowning, the sudden collapse or -paralysis of certain muscles and nerves. The so-called " Arab diver " who was timed by us to eighty-three seconds, differed from others in putting a compressor on. his nose, and he was noticed to open his mouth widely and inhale air in large volume before going down with his stone and basket. He brought up — or rather, he collected in the rimmed net bag which he had round his neck untU he filled it, and wluch, like the stone, was hauled up separately — forty-two oysters, which was considered a very good haul. All the divers when they come up seem glad to inhale a good gulp of air, but they do not, or only very rarely and temporarily, show signs of distress. Of the two fatal cases noticed by Mr. Twynam, one was a novice who^ no doubt, miscalcu- lated what he could bear, from want of experience. The other was a practised diver, but he may have had organic disease. Captain Donnan states that he has never known the divers take anything to help them except snuff! Mr. Twynam once induced a diver to go to the bottom in fifteen fathoms (twice the average depth on the pearl banks), but he was so alarmed at the prolonged period from the man's diving to his reappearance, that he has not and never will repeat the experiment. The great difficulty in artificially propagating the pearl-bearing mussels, and the reason why all experiments here and in Southern India have failed, is the depth, six to eight fathoms, at which alone this species of shell-fish flourish. There are two divers to each stone, who are alternately up and down. We saw on board the guardship (one of the immigration vessels, a fine two hundred and fifty ton ship with three tall masts) a stone made of our common gneiss rock, and a specimen of some substitutes made of concrete at the breakwater. The weight seemed to be from thirty to forty pounds. The weight of the stone helps to carry the diver rapidly down, and as I have said, he has the net 384 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. bag. for the shells slung round his neck. On touching ground the diver detaches himself from the stone, which the force of hauling coolies on each fishing boat proceed at once to pull up. Others haul up the basket when the diver casts it off and gives the signal of a jerk to the rope. The diver himself has only to give play to his buoyancy to rise, but he is careful to avoid contact with the boat, and will often dash off horizontally outwards in coming to the surface, which he does almost simultaneously with the bag of oysters he has gathered. While he holds on by the side of the boat, the contents of his net bag are emptied into large ola baskets, foreign substances being thrown back into the sea, the net being soon again ready for use. In each boat we found a belted native "counter," who responded to the question " etena chippee?" but I noticed that Mr. Twynam always added a percentage to the number given. It seems as if the exact truth could not be stated : indeed, I fancy that a good deal of fairly correct estimation goes for counting in the division of the spoil finally. The people, however, divide the oysters into fairly equal heaps, because they know not which heap may be allotted as the boat's share. The boat now gets a third instead of the ancient fourth, which latterly was found ndt to be a sufficient inducement, and Mr. Twynam's calculation is that each man of some 2,300 employed in the boats yesterday made about E3 wages. The boatmen and divers' share of oysters can at once, on division, be sold, so that the people employed have whatever advantage may accrue from being first in the market. At the Government auction last evening it was amusing to hear one man allege that he did not purchase, as Saturday was an vinlucky day ! Another said people would blame him if he bid ; a man in the background said he did not want people to know what he was bidding; while a bidder up to E25 said emphatically, " I'll not bid higher." Some were at work all night carrying away their lots of oysters, but a walk I took early this morning oveir shells and fragments of shells everywhere, showed that the* work of washing, except in the case of a few smaU retail purchasers, had not yet commenced. The demand here for ola mats and baskets and for cadjans and palmyra leaves, is very large, hundreds of temporary abodes going up in all directions. • The Ceylon Pearl Fisheries in 1887. 385 Climate and soil are against vegetation here ; but the bay, bounded on one side by Kudramalle (well known to the Greek- and Koman voyagers as Hippouros), is very spacious and pretty. But there are a good many rooks scattered about. The fleet of graceful-sailed boats sweep- ing along the horizon and making for the banks reminded me somewhat of the sardine fishing vessels I saw in the Mediterranean. As to attaining anything like certainty or steadiness, or being able artificially to propagate the oysters, we seem as much in the dark as ever. On board the guard ship yesterday (whence I saw another exciting scene of 114 boats crowding round the ship to announce their loads and to skim shorewards, the noise and confusion being wonderful) I had the advantage of going over the charts of the pearl banks with Mr. Twynam and Capt. Donnan, who readily answered all my questions. The general results were that an extensive area of baiik, with from six to eight fathoms of water on it, extends from near Mannar to Chilaw. The apparent conditions of bottom coral existing nearly everywhere seems to be generally very similar : spat and young oysters appear periodically on all. £ut it is only on the linoited spaces called the Modaragam and Cheval-pars that really good fisheries are ever reahzed ; and even in regard to them, too often when all is most promising, millions and millions of oysters will suddenly disappear. If it can be any comfort to us our Indian neighbom's have been much more unfortunate, a minute parasitic shell killing off holocausts of the oysters. And this reminds me of the theory which Capt. Phipps originated, which Mr. Thomas of the Madras Civil Service (the great fisherman) took up, - and which the naturalists of the British Museum supported, that what had hitherto from all time been known as the spat of the pearl oyster, is the spat of quite a different shell ! AH that Mr. Twynam, Capt. Donnan, and other experienced persons, natives as well as European, can say is, " Then we should like to see the real spat of the pearl oyster. Destructive criticism is ingenious, but where is the sub- stitute ? " The disputed spat has always preceded oysters on the banks. Messrs. Twynam and Donnan have seen the spat changing into oysters on long tall sea-weeds, and as those long weeds have died down, the spat has gone 26 386 Ceylon in *he Jubilee Year. down, adhered to the coral, and become growing oysters. If experience is to be set aside, a more than Darwinian evolution must be substituted, and at present the opinion in Ceylon is that all the old authorities were right, and that Capt. Phipps, Mr. Thomas, and even a British Museum naturalist, are mistaken. Shellfish which grow in millions of millions must have spat in proportion, and in that case it must be apparent. But where is it apart from the old spat ? I must acknowledge a most interesting communication which has reached me from Capt. Donnan. It is to the following effect, the date being the 13th April : — " "We are now working on the Cheval, having left the Matarakam on Saturday last, and if the weather keeps fine, of which there is every appearance at present, we shall do much better in the way of revenue than I ex- pected when I recommended the fishery. I have been ashore only once since you left. You will remember that ' Arab ' diver with the nose nipper. Well, I had him alongside this morning, and told him to let me see. how long he could remain under water, and I carefully timed him, one minute and forty-nine seconds, which is the longest dive on record on these banks or beds. The other ' Arab,' with air-pump and dress, only worked one day with it, when he only sent up 1,500 oysters, and now, without the dress, he is sending up from 2,500 to 3,000 oysters per day ; so that the helmet, dress, and air-pump are not calculated to succeed at pearl-diving. I found also in 1884, off Chilaw, with four of Mr. Kyle's divers, that the natives sent up more oysters per day, man for man, than they did; a result which very much surprised me at the time, and now it has been confirmed again." It will be observed that the so-called "Arab" diver, really a Hindu, from the Bombay Presidency, remained under water for a period extending to 109 seconds. I suspect that if sceptical criticism were brought to bear on the stories which allege subaqueous existence by divers for periods up to six minutes, this latest feat would be found to take rank amongst the most remarkable in the annals of diving where the diver has not been artificially supplied with air. No doubt the organs of the human The Ceylon Pearl Fisheries in 1887 387 body are capable of being educated by continued practice to endurance of abnormal conditions and of adaptation to such conditions : to those of extreme heat for instance, if gradually applied. I could, therefore, understand a man who commenced a diver's life, " sound in wind and limb," obtaining gradually the power of remaining under water and repressing inspiration and respiration for two minutes, or at the very utmost two and a half. But those who know that the blo6d is the life, and that it must, as it circulates, be aerated, or lungs and heart will cease to act, will be slow to believe in a staying power under water of three minutes, far less of six. The other " Arab " alluded to by Capt. Donnan had an imperfect diving dress which, it will be observed, was rather an encumbrance than a help to him as a regular diver, in which capacity he was only thoroughly successful when he abandoned the adventitious aid. Much service to the pearl fisheries of Ceylon was naturally expected from the class of European divers who, by means of external air supplied to them, can remain not minutes but hours under water. But the hopes entertained have not been realized. For the ordinary operations of rapidly collecting and bringing shells to the surface, a regular diving dress is as much of an impedi- ment as was Saul's armour to the shepherd lad who slew the giant with the simple weapons of a pebble from the brook projected by a sling. For exploring the banks and reporting on their condition, more might have reasonably been expected. But a thickly mailed and heavy-booted European diver, with seven to nine fathoms of water pressing on him, is no light entity to walk over and inevitably crush the colonies of molluscs. The stay under water in the case recorded by Capt. Donnan was twenty-seven seconds in advance of Sir Henry Ward's timing, twenty-six beyond our own, and sixteen in excess of the longest dive ever observed by Mr. Twynam. I have Captain Donnan's authority for saying that the period under water now observed by him is the longest on record in the annals of the Ceylon Pearl Fishery. Captain James Steuart, so long the Inspector of the Pearl Banks, and who collected so much information regarding them, never knew a diver to remain at the bottom longer than eighty-seven seconds, or to attain a greater depth than thirteen fathoms. Six minutes is the period mentioned 388 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. in the "Encyclopedia Britannica," latest edition, but as no authority is given I must remain sceptical. In the same article it is stated that, as the result of their trying vocation, the divers are short-lived. Here, also, I prefer the testimony of such largely- experienced and careful observers as Mr. Twynam and Capt. Donnan. The men, generally, make good earnings, live well, being nearly all meat-eaters, look well and have as good chances of pro- longed life as those who follow less hazardous occupations. One reason, no doubt, is that instead of any attempt to remain under water for prolonged periods, their average stay below is somewhat under rather than over one minute. With prolonged intervals to recover breath, to rest and tD sun themselves by the sides of the boats, (working as they do by relays) their labour hours, as far as diving is concerned, extend only to the seven or six and a half hours from daylight to one p.m. APPENDIX XX. ANUEADHAPUEA, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OP CEYLON, AND -ADJACENT BUINS AND TANKS, IN 1887. (From Letters to the " Ceylon Observer," by A. M. Ferguson, a.M.G.) Anuradhapttea, April 11th, 1887. Hebe I am at length, in the greatest and most ancient of " the buried cities of Ceylon," which and the surrounding countries, away to the mountains. of Matale and "the Knuckles," I have looked over from the summit of the Miriswatte Dagoba ; the streets of which, . including the " via sacra," I have traversed, and the temples, palaces and baths of which I have examined, with intense interest, feeling as I looked on " Those temples, moiiuments, and piles stnpendous, Of which the very mins are tremendons," that the half had not been told me. Yesterday I stood on the mound which tradition indicates as the site where one of the "decisive battles of the world" was fought; where the Tamil invader, Elala, fell to the sword of the Sinhalese monarch, Dutugemunu, and the tide of Damilo progress southwards was arrested — at least temporarily. For what power short cf the ruin of European enterprise in Ceylon, can arrest the southward flow, peaceful, but detei mined and constant, of the successors of the old South of India invaders ? The present Government of Ceylon, instead of resisting, has done and is doing all it can to welcome and encourage the influx of the Tamils, who come 390 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. to exchange their labour for silver coin. "Who can calcu- late the final results of this ebb and flow, but more flow than ebb ? Even now the strength of the Tamil element in Ceylon, including, as essentially Tamils, the industrious and enterprising Moormen, is exceedingly strong, and it is daily growing. I have been six miles away to Mihintale, a dagoba- crowned rock, which we ascended by about two thousand steps, most of them separate blocks of stone, some cut in the rock. The ruins here are most interesting, and the views from the summit were beautiful. This was the favourite residence of Mahindo, who, about three centuries before Christ, introduced Buddhism to Ceylon. I lay on the stone bed on which he was wont to meditate and so secured great merit ! Over Mahindo's pokuna or bath there is sculptured a very curious five-headed cobra. But see Burrow's book.* Kalawewa, April 15th. This wonderful tank will be completed in October, and then send irrigation water down to Anuradhapura, fifty-four miles by the Yodiela (the giant's canal), and into the Kuranegala district. Mr. Wrightson walked with me this morning to see the enormous statue of Buddha, cut out of the solid rock, one of the largest things of its kind in the world. There is quite a town here, the people employed on the restoration being about six hundred, families and bazaars making up fully one thousand. The tank will be seven miles square, with twenty feet of water. Entering Anuradhapura on a dark night, after rain, all I was able to notice was the rush of the classical Malwatte, with myriads of bright-glancing fireflies oh the forest trees. Next morning, when I looked out as daylight brightened the scene, I had for the chief object in my view the grand mass of the Jetawanarama dagoba. In the foreground, close to a raised bund, was a strip of water. This was all the Basawakulam (curious interjection of a Tamil termi- nation into a city so essentially Sinhalese) had to show as a tank, and most of it was the result of the exception- ally heavy showers which had fallen in the first week of * " The Buried Cities of Ceylon," by S. M. , Burrows, CCS. Pub- lished by A. M. & J. Ferguson, Colombo, 1886. Anuradhaptira in 1887. 391 April. When the waters of the Yodiela reach Anurad- hapura, as they will do within the nexffew days, I pre- sume Basawakulam will receive the benefit of the supply, to the increased beauty and salubrity of the city, I should think. It is no use suggesting that the Tamil termination " kulam " should be changed to the Sinhalese equivalent , " wewa," for, however much it may be regretted, the ancient capital of the Sinhalese monarchy in Ceylon is likely as development goes on io become more Tamil than Sinhalese. ' When Kalawewa is completed and a lake of seven square miles stands above the forests and fields which stretch away to Anuradhapura, some readers may be surprised to learn that it will not only be the largest restored tank in Ceylon, but that it will rank with the largest in the world. Mr. Henry Parker in his • elaborate Report on the Giant's Tank, written so far back as November, 1881, instituted a comparison which is now unjust to Kalawewa, inasmuch as its probable area was then. taken at only 2,300 acres, or little more than Half the real area of the tank as restored, which is 4,425 acres. Mr. Parker then under-estimated also the area of Padawiya, the largest tank in Ceylon, larger even than the Giant's Tank. If his revised esti- mate, after examination of the locality, could be accepted, this Padawiya tank with 20,000 acres area would closely approach in extent the greatMadras tank of Viranam, with its 22,000 acres extent. But, taking Mr. Parker's more moderate estimate of 10,000 acres for. Padawiya, thei; Kalawewa in October next will rival this, and, perhaps, equal it, if the spill is ultimately raised five fett. Mean- time, the corrected comparison of areas alone (capacity in millions of cubic feet being in a good many cases dovibtful or unascertainable), is as foUovrs : — Area in CbiraiBT. Eeseetoik.. Acres. Remaees. Madras...... Viranam 22,000 Ancient. Ceylon Padawiya 10,000 Estimated. Do Giant's Tank 6,380 As proposed. Madras Semprampakam 6,000 Estimated. Cieylon Kalawewa 4,425 Ascertained. Do. ...... Kanthalar 3,584 As restored. Do AUai 3,000 do. Do Eugam . .- 3,000 Original tank. Bombay Sholapur,. 3,000 As enlarged. Madras. Bed HiU 1,600 do. Bombay Vehar 1.394 As constructed. 392 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. Of the above tanks, Vehar, in the Bombay Presidency, and the Eed Hill reservoir above Madras (the bursting of which latter some years ago produced so much alarm, some loss of life, and great inconvenience), are intended solely for the supply of water to the Presidency towns ; Madras 400,000 population and Bombay twice that num- ber. The reservoir at Labugama, a sub-range of the Adam's Peak system, whence our chief city, with its 120,000 inhabitants, is now supplied with water, covers 176 acres. It is very curious to see how, in the course of ages, the south-west monsoon winds and rains have worn away the ends of the pinnacle platforms of the great Anuradhapura dagobas on which they have impinged, so that in some cases there is scarcely any projection on the western sides of the dagobas, the pinnacle appearing to rise from the western edge of a platform. The intention of Government at first, 1 believe, was merely to strengthen the top plat- form of the Abhayagiria dagoba so as to render it secure, but finally reconstruction, which is now considerably advanced, was resolved on, and but for the objection of the appearance of pandering- to Buddhism, and the other that Ceylon has no money at present to spare on merely archso- logical purposes, no doubt the resolution would be com- mendable. For by means of a winding stone staircase which runs up through the interior of the platform, the summit can be attained, commanding a grand and varied view of the ruins of the ancient city, its tanks, its rice- fields, its forest surroundings, with many mountain ranges as backgrounds to the scenery. It was up this winding path, through the monkey-haunted jungle which now covers the ancient structure, that the prisoners employed had originally to carry the stone, lime, sand, and broken brick : all the materials and tools used in the restoration. It must have been hard work with a vengeance, as we can testify from merely walking up the steep path when the sun was shining hotly. The extensiveness of the road system and its ramifica- tions through the tank regions, involves a limit to the extent to which water can now be impounded and its level raised in such great tanks for instance as Kalawewa. An average of ten feet of water does not seem in proportion to a bund of sixty feet in height. But even so, an area of Anuradhapura in 1887. 393 seven square miles will be permanently covered, and if the spills were raised much beyond the five feet additional for which provision has been made, the damage of submerging many miles of useful road would be real and great. Such considerations did not trouble Maha Sen, Waligambahu, Dhatu Sena, Prakramabahu and other great tank-builders, far less did they think of providing for the possibility of a railway line to connect the shipping port on the west of the island with the tank region of the north, its capital city. With reference to contingencies in the distant future our Govemi^ient ought to get Mr. Wrightson to place on record his scheme of a railway, line which would not be a continuation of the line that has already reached Matale in its northern course ; but which, springing from Veyan- goda or Polgahawella, would reach Anuradhapura by a ia,r easier and less costly course. A railway terminus in the shadow of our Ceylon pyratnids, and in close contiguity to Elala's tomb and the thousand pillars of "Brazen Palaces," "Halls of Audience," "Baths" and "Pavilions," may seem wildly visionary ; but so at one time did the idea of a railway from the sea into the centre of the mountain region of Ceylon. So also was the restoration of Kalawewa once regarded; but that is now, practically, an accom- plished fact, and thus the visionary "castles in the air" of one generation become the substantial realities of suc- ceeding periods. For the present, Jiowever, what Anurad- hapura and the region around 'it want are irrigation water to facilitate— (to render possible, indeed) — the cultivation of rice, and good roads for the tiransport of surplus crops and the conamodities received in exchange. Of the thousands of buildings which once existed, at Anuradhapura, at least^ nearly all are prone with the earth, or hopelessly ruined, except the grand dagobas and the splendid baths, to which latter is unhappily attached the very uneuphonions name of pokuna. Next to the pyramid-dagobas in interest, and far more perfect in structure (except in the case, of the repaired, we may say reconstructed, Thuparama), are the numerous and really beautiful baths, of Anuradhapura, one of which, or rather two-in-one, a twin-bath or pokuna, is certainly amongst the most striking sights, and makes one of thg finest pic- tures, in the ancient capital. It is exceedingly picturesque in its semi-ruinous condition, the steps being displaced aS 394 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. . by an earthquake shake, and lying in admired confusion, though none are broken, and few even chipped. This beautiful work could at slight expense be restored, and by means of Yodiela water from Tissawewa, be converted into what Ave suspect the Buddhist priest-worshipping kings never could or would have contemplated, a public swim- ming bath, to which others than members of the royal family and of the priesthood would be admitted. In the prominence of its baths, ancient Anuradhapura reminded me of ancient Eome, where the finest maidenhair ferns flourish in the Baths of Nero and Caracalla. But there is onfi great difference, and it scores in favour of the Budd- hist "kings. The insane and wicked ambition of the Cfesars was for each to use the bath or palace of his predecessor merely as the foundation on which to erect a structure after his own fancy and in honour of himself. In the Italian city, therefore, we have the superimposed remains of baths, doubly ruined; by the instincts of insen- sate ambition, originally, and then by the hands of time and vandaUsm. But no similar idea seems ever to have crossed the mind of Sinhalese monarchs. There was plenty of space, and each king in choosing a new site and constructing a new ablution-tank (we hoj)e the word pokuna will be outlawed and driven to take refuge in the rock fastnesses of Sigiri), merely strove to excel in elegance of structure and capacity the bath of his predecessor. He who constructed the twin-bath ought to have his name, if it could be ascertained, associated with one of the finest remains in the ancient capital of Ceylon, and one of the most beautiful things of its kind in the world. Photo- graphs give a fair idea of the twin-tanks of stone, their exquisitely-carved balustrades and their flights of steps, but it is worth taking a journey to Anuradhapura to sec and stand in admiration beside the " Kuttam pokuna," the largest division of which is 132 feet long by 50 feet wide, the descent being, we should say, at least 30 feet. It is a truly noble and elegant structure, every stone c^f which is almost as perfect as the day it was hewn. The quahfying question arises, for whose use was this magnificent bath provided ? It lies in suspicious proximity to the Jetawa- narama dagoba, which is said to have been built by Maha Sen, about the close of the third century of our era, to commemorate his reconversion to orthodox Buddhism Anuradhapura in 1887. 395 (whatever that was) from the Wytuliam heresy (whatever that may have been). Having built a shrine so enormous, it was only befitting that the repentant monarch should provide for the hordes of priests attached to it baths of pro- portionate size. We could scarcely restrain our burning indignation as we found that object after object of archseo- logical interest resolved itself, on inquiry, into something for the honour, convenience, and pampering of one of the most utterly useless systems of priestcraft that ever cursed humanity. Amongst the wonders of Anuradhapura are some large stone canoes, and it is believed that even these were constructed to hold food for the priests. Similar care was taken to provide monolithic vessels for the dyeing of the priestly robes, and to quote Burrows : — " Wide dis- tricts, fertilized, perhaps, by the interception of a river and the formation of suitable canals, were appropriated to the' use of the local priesthood ; a tank, with the thousands of acres it watered, was sometimes assigned for the perpetual repairs of a dagoba." The depth of subserviency was reached when a monarch devoted himself and his family as slaves to the priesthood ; but this was too much even for Sinhalese public opinion, Buddhists as the people were. To look for remains of residences of the common people amidst the ruins of Anuradhapura seems hopeless : they built with mud, and roofed with leaves. But surely the monarchs and nobles had their palaces and their baths ? We certainly do hear of " the queen's palace," and "the king's palace," and of 'pavilions," but even regarding these, the qualifying remark has to be made that the buildings were probably " shrines ; " and what is cer- tain is that nine-tenths at least of the existing ruins of Anuradhapura, once a great city covering an area of 256 square miles (Colombo is spread over only 11), are identi- fied as the remains of buildings devoted to the custody of doubtful relics of an arch-atheist and pessimist, and to the delectation of holy beggars who taught that there is no God, no soul, no immortality ; only extinction of sentient existence by the practice of unnatural and impossible austerities, and by honouring a non-existent being called Buddha, and bestowing bounty on his very exigent " fiien- dicant " priests. The calculation which lennent makes regarding the mass of materials in the Jetawanarama dagoba shows 396 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. ■what might have been done for the people, or what the people might have been led to do for themselves, had fair play been extended to them by the kings and nobles and priests who lived only or mainly for their own aggrandize- ment. The Jetawanarama dagoba, built by Maha Sen about 275 a.d., was originally 316, and is still 249, feet high, so that the summit is nearly 600 feet above sea-level. Neither the priests nor the Government entertain any de- sign of "restoring " this vast mass, but no doubt an easy path to the top will be added to the many fine drives and walks for which Anuradhapura is now distinguished, and which renders it so different a place to that into which Skinner and MacCaskill cut their way through dense jungle somewhat more than half a century ago. The diameter of the great Jetawanarama dagoba is 360 feet, and Tennent estimated the contents of the whole at 20 millions of cubic feet. He added : " Even with the facili- ties which modern invention supplies for economizing labour, the building of such a mass would at present occupy 500 bricklayers from 6 to 7 years, and would in- volve an expenditure of at least a million sterling. The materials are sufficient to raise 8,000 houses, each with 20 feet frontage, and these would form thirty' streets half a mile in length. They would construct a town the size of Ipswich or Coventry ; they would line an ordinary railway tunnel 20 miles long, or form a wall 1 foot thick and 10 feet high reaching from London to Edinburgh." When it is remembered that, apart from purely stone ruins, some five times the mass of materials (chiefly fine large flat bricks, tens of thousands of which have resisted outrage and time), when it is considered that materials multiplied at least by five times enter into similar structures at Anuradhapura, Eome idea can be formed of the fearful misapplication of materials and labour which took placu in honour of a false faith and a parasite priesthood at the ancient city. As in the case of the Medici and St. Peter's at Rome (a grand building, but more a shrine of idolatry than Christianity), love of art, devotedness to resthetic beauty, will be pleaded, and no doubt the ancient monarchs of Anuradhapura were some of them men of as good taste as Sir William Gregory described the last bloody and murderous tyrant of Kandy to be. He compelled Ehela- pola's wife to pound the head of her own child in a mortar, Anuradhapura in 1887. 397 but, as a set-off, he formed the beautifal Kandy lake and built its fine bund-walL If the dates usually given can be accepted, it is curious that Thuparama dagoba (moderate in size when compared with the pyramids of Jetawana- rama, Euanwelli, Abhayagiria, and Mirisiawatte) is not only one of the most ancient buildings in India, but one of the most elegant in design. Euskin may rant and rave against stucco and whitewash, but there can be no ques- tion that the restored Thuparama, with its snow-white, bell-shaped, pointed form, contrasted with the ancient monoliths and ruins, and the umbrageous trees and green- sward amidst which it rises, is " a thing of beauty." In shape it is now a perfect contrast to the top-heavy mass shown in the works of Forbes and Fergusson ; and the appearance of Thuparama as merely- whitewashed, helps to a vivid realization of how beautiful the great pyramid dagobas must have looked when, covered with fine poUshed chunam, their vast masses gleamed white against the sky. But the glories and the gems of Thuparama and of Anurad- hapura (although we do not forget our admiration of the baths) are the monolithic, capital-crowned piUars which stand upright or at various angles of inclination around. The Thuparama dagoba, built originally, so the Maha- wanso asserts, in 307 b.o. (and if so, it is certainly the oldest building in aU India), was damaged by the Mala- bars, and has been several times repaired, and lately restored. But the exquisitely proportioned monoliths are here intact, and if they were hewn and the capitals sculp- tured, as seems certain, nearly twenty-two centuries ago, then certainly the ancient founders of Anuradhapura had the principles of true art and the sense of true beauty developed in a remarkable degree. Nothing strikes a visitor tp the quadrangle in which stands the sacred bo tree more than the complete but most pleasing contrast between the umbrageous expanses of the Indian figs and the tall, rounded, perfectly straight, cylindrical stems of the palmyra palms, each crowned with its capital of clus- tered leaves. As I looked on these classically beautiful trees I could not help the reflection that here were the natural models on which the Idng slender pillars around Thuparama were formed. The palm, so prevalent now, must have existed in those early ages ; and even if artists from India formed the transcendently elegant pillars, we 398 Ceylon. in the Jubilee Year. must remember that over large portions of India tlie pal- myra palm {borassus flaheUiformis) is a familiar object. The beauty and utility of the palmyra palm is scarcely appreciated as it ought to be. Those who have seen only dense groves of stiff-looking trees in the peninsula of Jaffna can scarcely imagine the tall growth and noble proportions of, the single specimens in the rich soil of the bo tree quadrangle at Ajiuradhapura. As a timber tree for roof- ing purposes the palmyra is well known and valued for its extreme lasting powers. For cabinet-making purposes it is not much used, because, probably, of the diflSculty of working it. But old wood rightly treated is scarcely, if at aU, inferior to ebony. Mr. Alexander, the forester of the North Central Province, took a polished stem to the Edin- burgh Forestry Exhibition, which was universally admired as " black marble." The pillars at Thuparama, as well as the thousands of others scattered, erect or prone, around the many and in some cases vast dagobas of Anuradhapura had for object the defining of processional circuits, round and round which hundreds of thousands of successive bands of pilgrims paced, all down the centuries, in order to obtain " merit," and of this surely the poor simple people, with their devout instincts, ought to have obtained a large store, seeing that Thuparama enclosed the veritable collarbone of Buddha, while close by, in another shrine, was the still more sacred canine tooth of the Bhodisat, the sage, in GaeUc Bodach, an old man, as Caielanh CTamil, Kalevi) means an old woman. From the calculation that ancient Anuradhapura, with its area of 256 square miles (including gardens, tanks, and cultivated fields), had a population of a quarter of a million, the descent is extreme to Fergusson's statement, in the 1876 edition of his work, that the site of the city was then entirely deserted and its vicinity closed in with almost impenetrable jungle. Even when that sentence was written, the clearing, road-formation, tank and canal re- storation, and general revival, which have now made such extensive progress, had been commenced, and were well forward. We have noticed that Anuradhapura is a perfect centre of highways, radiating away to the Northern, Eastern, North-Western, and Central Provinces, and so to the west and south of the island, while there are few out-station towns in Ceylon better supplied with local Anuradhapura in 1887. 399 driving roads and pa,t]is. This advantage is, of course, largely due to the desire of the authorities to render access to the antiquities of the place facile to travellers and visitors. We believe vye mentioned in a previous letter that, besides the Government principal and ininor roads, a large mileage of what are called " green roads " has been cleared by the natives. These roads have to wait for bridges, culverts, and gravelling, but meantime they are traversable by carriages and carts in the dry season (seven or eight months out of the twelve), and by foot-passengers all the year round. From houses in the town we heard as we entered after dark and on subsequent days, the notes of music and the sounds of song and hymn, such as are common to the civilization of a century later by 2,000 years than that in which the town named after the constellation Anuradha was founded, while rays of light from lamps filled with kerosene, imported from a westerfi world then undreamt of, vied in brightness with the phosphorescence of myriads of fireflies hovering over the vegetation which clothes the sides of the Malwatte oya. The present population of revived Anuradhapura, including, it must be admitted, large proportions of active Tamils and enterprising Moor- men, must be fully 2,000, the : promising nucleus of an aggregation of humanity which in the ages to come may equal, and even surpass, the hundreds of thousands who lived and loved and fought the battle of life and died on its fields in the ages that have gone into the eternity of the past. If after October next, when the scheme of tanks, canals, sluices, and spills between the grand tank of Kala- wewa and the town reservoirs of Tissa, Abhaya, and the supply channels which lead from them to houses and fields, are all complete and fully at work, then if the population of what is now Anuradhapura, and of the area over which it once extended, does not increase in almost geometrical ratio, all ordinary human calculations must be deemed valueless. There is, I believe, some evidence amongst the ruins of Anuradhapura of colours having been used in designs and ornamentation, and it seems quite probable that the fine white lime stucco which at one time covered not only the brickwork of the dagobas, but rough stone-work, such as the pillars of the Brazen Temple, may have been elabo- 400 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. rately frescoed. In such freseoea, had any survived the ravages of time and of ruthless human destructiveness, the author of tree and serpent worship niight have hoped to find the tree which, in support of Ms jiEeory, ought to have accompanied the serpents on the sculptures. Or he probably thought the nagas and trees, in due, proximity, were painted on the " curtains,!' which he conjectures were hung between' the processional , pillars, successive circles of which surrounded . Thuparama and the other dagobas. But^ if that was the case, it is surely curious that the conjunction was. not perpetuated in the Bock Temple and ordinary wihara frescoes. As far as my observation has gone,' representations of trees are not common on the walla of Ceylon wiharas, and I can recollect no case of tree and serpent, together or separ- ately, represented as objects of .worship. Amidst the elaborate frescoes of the rook cave temple of Dambulla I do not remember any picture of a tree, although the artist, in reproducing the marine landscape connected with a ship conveying the branch of the sacred bo to Ceylon, shows his" sense of proportion by. representing the fishes in the sea as considerably excelling in size the ships I Bat I must leave this question of the presence or absence of evidence in Ceylon of the former prevalence of tree and serpent worship to professed oriental scholars who have made the subject a special study. I am merely an outsider, scarcely entitled to " benefit of clergy," re- lating the impressions made on my mind by what I have seen and read. According to Fergusson, the beautifully sculptured moonstones, the design of which — elephant, lion, horse, bull, hanza, lotus, and frieze — remained un- changed for fifteen centuries, are peculiar to Ceylon ! This certainly looks like indigenous art. What are called ," pavilions " at Anuradhapura, a name given, I believe, by Mr. Dickson, Fergusson supposes were "preaching haUs " connected with dagobas ; so that the more we investigate, the more it becomes evident that all or nearly all the grand lithio remains of buildings at the ancient city, as well as the mainly brick pagodas, were devoted to the glorification of Buddhism and the convenience of its so-called " priests," who were bound by the laws of their order to spend their lives in ineditation and self-denial. But we know how mediaeval Christian monks interpreted Anuradhaviira in 1887. 401 their " vows of poverty." The Buddhist mendicants of our day who hold and misuse such large " temporalities " have certainly the merit of heing true to the traditions of twenty centuries. The dagobas contained " bushels " of relics, but it is singular that the only relic ever publicly exhibited in the past or now is the so-called tooth. The saintly Tissa (" a sair saint to the croon ") is said to have been privileged above all laymen by being admitted to see the relics contained in the inner sanctum of the holiest of the great dagobas, and he was doubtless correspondingly edified. We do not read that he worshipped the relics, however ; for Buddhist idolatry was evidently long posterior to the early age in which he flourished. It was, however, in full force when the second ancient capital of Ceylon was founded. Fergusson, indeed, regards Polonaruwa as specially interesting from this fact, that it is full of the idolatry of Buddhism, having been founded after Buddhism had become extinct in India. Interest of another kind attadies to this city of Prakrama (which I was very sorry not to be able to visit), from the fact that the Sat Mahal Prasada, so conspicuous amongst its wonderfully perfect buildings, is the lineal descendant of Birs Nimroud of Assyria. There is indeed nothing more curious and in- teresting in the great work on Indian Architecture than the mode in which the influence, first of Babylonia and Nineveh, and then of Greece and Rome, is traced by the erudite author in much of the architecture of India and Ceylon ; while at the same time there is a great deal that is quite original and indigenous. To Fergusson we are also indebted for the calculation that the Brazen Palace at Anuradhapura, when complete (according to the plan of gradually diminishing stories, which alone he believed to be possible), vied with the simple but majestic Anurad- hapura dagobas in height, and was equal to the most elevated of the great English cathedrals. In noticing the surpassingly elegant pillars of Thuparama I ought to have mentioned their resemblance to the "lats" of India, on which the edict of Asoka and other monarchs are inscribed, and which again seem to have influenced the form of the minarets in Saracenic architecture. But I must no longer linger amidst the ruins of Anuradhapura further than to express my agreement with the conviction that the choice of the place as the capital of the Wijayan conquerors was 27 402 Ceijlan in the Jubilee Year. largely influenced by the fact that Mihintale, with its rook caves and boulder plateaux, was already a scene of reUgious worship before the immigrants from northern India conquered the indigenous Yakho race, and before the apostles of the new philosophy of negation bound con- querors and conquered in the chains of their godless and cheerless, if plausible, creed. The same fact, probably, of the rock caves being sacred to demon or naga worship influenced Mahindo, son of the great Asoka, in choosing Mihintale as his residence when he came to introduce Buddhism in the second century b.c, his sister soon fol- lowing with the branch of the sacred Bo. I now proceed to notice some other rock temples beyond the precincts of Anuradhapura. Within those precincts are a good many curious examples, the most striking being that close to Tissawewa, Isurumaniya, to wit, which, ex- isting as a shrine from 300 b.c., if we can accept the native dates, presents now a most incongruous combination of natural magnitude of rock, ancient sculpture, and exqui- site stone carving, and the most tawdry modem ornamen- tation of glaring paint and toy-like shrines and begging boxes. As a whole, Isurumaniya, with its combination of Buddhism, Hinduism, and (there can be little doubt, of a cult which preceded both) demon-worship with the physi- cal symbol of the serpent, presents one of the most curious problems of the mysterious ancient city of the " dead past." From Kalawewa I was able to visit a rock temple, the Aukuna wihara, which, though not very ancient when compared with some of the monuments of Anuradhapura, is certainly very interesting. The sight of the solemn, colossal figure of Buddha carved from fee solid rock, one of a series of huge vertical strata, was well worth the journey. Although the protecting porch which once covered the figure no longer exists, every well-executed detail is in as perfect preservation as when the statue was sculptured by order of Parakrama Bahu nearly 700 years ago. Purposely, no doubt, the figure — which is in good proportion and good taste, 40 feet high, with feet 72 inches in length — faces the great tank. Without a par- ticle of sympathy with Buddhist idolatry, we can distin- guish between that foul sin and the true art thrown into the pose and repose of this grand figure. When I said. Anuradhapura in 1887. 403 that every detail was complete, I ought to have added that the flame ornament (answering to the nimbus of Christian art*) which ought to be on the head 6f the figure, lies beside it. There is also^ the inevitable cobra carved on a slab, but no representation of a tree or any approach to it. It ^ was the solitary priest of the wihara connected with the- rock statue who insisted that the English engineer engaged in the restoration of Kalawewa was an incarnation of one- of the ancient tank-building giants. Mr. Wrightson adds to his other accomphshments that of photographer, and amongst his collection was the likeness of another similar colossal rock statue of Buddha, but, he believes, of more ancient date. It stands 41 feet high, at Seperawa. Fer- gusson, however, in noticing photographs taken by Captain Hogg, E.E., remarks that these statues are extremely similar to one another, and, except in dimensions, to that at the Gal wihara in Polonaruwa. The few figures of Buddha unearthed at Anuradhapura looked poor and dilapidated when compared with the fresh-looking "ruins" of stone monuments, older than the statues by many cen- turies. The statues of monarcha there, at the Dambulla Eock Temple, and elsewhere, are, I suppose, as authentic likenesses as are the pictures at Holyrood of the long line of mythical or doubtful Scottish kings, from " Fergus the First" onwards. On my way back from Kalawewa to the central road, Mr. Wrightson's kindness enabled me to visit the specially interesting ruins of Vigittapura, a city said to have been founded at an earlier date even than Anuradhapura by one of the six brothers of Wijayo's Indian Queen. There is the inevitable dagoba, which we ascended, admiring, as a bright contrast to the surrounding ruins of long past ages, the pretty wild flowers which brightened its sides. From the top we had a good view of the ruins of wiharas and fortress defences,, which we could not, for want of time, examine- in detail. It was certainly interesting to look on pillars and slabs hewn probably over twenty-three centuries ai^o ; for the Mahawanso, quoted by Burrows, states that the settlement of Prince Vigitta was a city and fortress * So close is the analogy between the architecture, image', and ritual of BucWhism with those of the Eomish Church, that the Abbe Hue expressed the conviction that the devil had v-yd Buddhism to cast discredit on " the Church." 404 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. " surrounded by a triple battlement and entered by a gate of iron 1 " when Anuradhapura was but a village. There are inscriptions here in the Nagara character, and besides the remains in the cleared space, the jungle around (specially pestiferous) is said to be " strewn with ruins." Somewhere near one of the four " altars " of the dagoba on which we stood and looked over the site of one of earth's most ancient cities and fortresses, Buddha's jaw- bone is said to be hidden. In hearing of such " bushels of relics " one is inclined to be irreverent enough to ask how many jawbones the &age ascetic was possessed of. Vigittapura is famous for the incidents of its siege more than 2,000 years ago. The city, founded by Gautama Buddha's cousin, b.c. 600, had, in b.g. 163, fallen into the possession of Mysorean invaders, and was held by a captain .of Elala, the Damilo monarch or usurper. Dhutugamunu conquered this fortress with others before his final and decisively successful battle and single combat with Ellala at Anuradhapura. Forbes, quoting from the. Mahawanso, gives the following animated account of the siege : "The assault having bee:. ^«i*^-rmined on, Kadol, the famed war elephant of the Singalese prince, was directed against the eastern gate, up to which he rushed through a shower of weapons and weighty stones that were hurled at him on his near approach to the walls. On reaching the entrance, a party of the besieged who were stationed over the gate commenced pouring down molten lead, which, falling on the elephant, he became ungovernable, and fled to shelter himself in a small tank near the walls. Kadol's wounds having been dressed, and his body fortified against similar attacks by cloths thickly folded and shielded over with plates of copper, he was again brought to the assault, and succeeded in forcing the gate, at the same time that others of the assailants entered by a breach in the walls of the fortress." On the morning after I had visited the romantic ruins of Vigittapura, apparently the most ancient in Ceylon, apart from the rock caves, I stood on the great gneiss rock of Dambulla, and enjoyed the extensive and varied view of .successive mountain and vast forested plains, Anurcidhapura in 1887. 405 brightened- bj glimpses oT streama and tanks and rice fields. I do not -wonder that Mr^ Campbell, pf Islay, was slmck with the appearance of the gneiss of which the great rock of DambaUa is formed; for the crystallized strata, worn away and polished on the ronnded sides of the rock, look as if Nature had tried her artist band in adorning the mass with engraved serpentine designs and qtriations, beantifol in themselves and bearing the most cnrious resemblance to hieroglyphic, inscriptions. Wonld that this natural alphabet conld tell us somewhat of the date, or rather successive dates, of the metamorphic rock, and the^ode of formation of its vast caverns. But while, with the utter .absence of m'arine remains, we have in exis- tence, potent as ever, agencies which sufficiently account for the production of the phenomena we- are examining, 1 see no reason to suppose that these are ocean-caves formed by the beating of billows against the sides of the rock koSl eroding its softer portions away through countless geolo- gical ages. All through those ages, doubtless, existed and operated the same air-ocean of moisture waves driven by wind currents, which exists and operates in our day. Apart from any tilting and dividing processes to which the strata may have been subjected, and which may have separated them widely, the effects of millions of monsoon storms on decomposing rock, aided finally by the agency of man ~with his spUtting wedges and hewing hammers and chisels, sufficiently account for the series of yawning caves which have rendered the rock of DambuUa famous. The stratified and contorted character of the rock ac- counts for the water which percolates doyn from the summit into one of the caves, to which, as of mysterious origin, the priests draw the attention of visitors, and which is treasured and considered as sacred as Ganges water is in India. I did not taste the heaven-born fluid, any more than I did the contents of a lakelet in a depression of the vast rock, a rock stated by Tennent to. be 600 feet in height and about 2,000 feet in length. As was natural to an accompUshed enthusiast like Islay Campbell, it was not for his geological theories alone he sought support amidst the cave recesses in the great gneiss rock of Sambnlla. In the elaborate and richly-coloured frescoes by which the stone roofs of the caves are covered 406 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. and adorned lie sought evidences of identity with the northern folklore which he had studied so deeply and illustrated so happily. He had heard of the giants as well as the demons of Sinhalese folklore, and, considering how many theories have been founded on the supposed identity in Indian literature of the Yavans with the lonians, we cannot wonder that the accomplished savant of Islay saw more than a verbal similarity between the Yodi of the Sinhalise and the Odin of the Scandinavian pantheon of deified heroes. APPENDIX XXI. KEFERENCE TO FJRONTISPIECE. The inscription on the statue to Governor Sir William Gregory telte its own story to some extent, but it may be added that a sum of About E25,000 was subscribed by all classes — chiefly by Ceylonese, and especially the Sinhalese section — foir the erection of the statue. It was executed by F. Boehm, A.B.A. It is erected in the Cinnamon Gardens, in, front T)f ihe Colombo Museum — the most interesting and most generally useful, as well as hand- somest, public building erected in Ceylon during British times. The conception, arrangments, and carrying out of this museum were entirely due to Governor Gregory. , He had for his architect Mri J. G Smither, F.B.I.B.A. The structure, laying out of grounds, and surrounding wall, cost about £12,000.; The museum is occupied entirely with Ceylon exhibits, and presents a very adequate display in all departments, and especially interesting aJchseological exhibits refering to the early days of the Eaxidyan Kingdom '■ An oriental library occupies one part of the bnildmg, and the Ceylon branch of the Boyal Asiatic Society holds its meetings in ah adjoining room, ^he natives of all classes and races visit the museum in great numbers, ^d it is a centre of attraction td visitors — ^passengers- lan^g ]|ct Ooloinbo— &om all quarters. BjE COLOtoO MUSEUM. i^y a Cef Urn writer in 1882.), I^It want of interest in local exhibitions was itoi so epmmocly observable amongst the resdents of almost all ' tibte^rios^wl towns 408 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. and cities of the oivilized wotld, it might, perhaps, be consideied remarkable that so few of theEoiopean residents of Colombo take any' interest in the bean tifnl mnseom which standseo prominently amongst the bnildings in the Cmnamon Gardens. It is merely another phase of the principle involved in the assertion that a prophet is not without honour, save in his own country and his own father's hooae. Onr mnseum is by far the most b^ntifal bnUding in Colombo: it is pleasantly situated, and surronnded by prettily cultivated grounds ; it is, moreovec, replete with objects of local interest, and entrance is free to all. And yet, with all these attractions, there is scarcely one in a hundred of us who has done himself the pleasure of paying a visit to the building, or, if he has, it was, in all probability, several years ego, or when the collection of specimenswas of such a meagre and rudimentary nature as to scarcely merit the name of collection at all. In those days, possibly, visitors may have been justified in making use of such expressions' as 'really, there is notiiing worth seeing or worth the trouble of a visit ' ; but at the present day the visitor would indeed be hard to please who could not find many objects in which he takes an interest, or which are calculated to attract his attention. In spite of many difficulties, the lukewannness of the authorities, the inefficiency, if not worse, of the assistants, the active opposition of the few, and the discouraging callousness of the many,. and in spite of the disappointment which must necessarily arise from want of intelligent interest in tbo work by the greater number of the European commnnity, the curator, with the aid of great industry and an affectionate int^iest in his work, has succeeded in getting together a very goodly show wherewith to minister to the amusement and instruction of those who make the museum a pleasur- able resort. "ThecoUection — entirely of an insularcharacter — alreadycomprises such a number of interesting specimens, that the scanty half-hour of an afternoon, which is generally all that most residents can aSord for the purpose before the doors are clo^ at six p.m., is all too short for even a casual glance at one-half of than, mnch less a care- ful examination ; and we would advise any one who really wishes to see the museum thoroughly, and acquire a kiiowledge of what it con- tains, to take it in instalments at their leisure, as opportunity offers. Inspection of the contents of the lower room might well occup/ the whole of the first visit, whilst ther« need be no waste of time if the gallery is to be got through in an hour and a half. In wri^ng this we must not be understood to be addressing the passengers from the steamers in the harbour who want to see all Colombo in tiie after- noon, travel to Eandy during the night, drive round the town before the seven o'clock train leaves, and be on board ship again by noon, having learnt all about Ceylon, and a great deal more besides, in less than twenty-four hours ; and yet we ore assured that out of the 9,062 Europeans who duringthe past year have visited the museum, the greater number are visitors from the shipping. There can be but little doubt that the exhibition has been subjected to one very serious drawback during past years, and that is the constant state of change in detail and arrangement which have occupied the officials so incessantly. " Complaints were rife of empty cases, and lack of specimens, and the justness of such complaints could not well be gainsaid ; but it Reference to Frontispiece. 409 was an imfortnnate state of affairs which has absolutely necessitated, as experience proved, the utility ot change of position, or as the growth of the collection called for more accommodation. The extra- ordinary dilatorinesB of the Public Works Department has, without doubt, done much to injure the good fame of the museum, and even now there are a very great number of specimens which are lying idle in the store-rooms for want of cases in which they could be exhibited ; and with the trtmsport vote cut down as it is to half the usual amount, and altogether inadequate to the necessities of the case, there seems to be little hope of progress in the immediate future. This transport vote, we may explain, provides for all the cost of collection by the curator and his assistants, taxidermists and peons, cart and coolie hire, tolls and canoes, and travelling expenses, pur- chase of specimens, &o., &e., and, when it is reduced as it has been to such an insignificant amount, the resources of the collector's establishment are entirely crippled, and progress most effectually stayed. There have been many critics from time to time who have not been backward in attributing blame to the curator, when, had they only been aware of the true state of the case, they would, without doubt, have been astonished that so much has been done with so little in the way of support. Lately, however, very considerable changes have taken place in the arrangement of the collection, many of themmost advantageous, whilst some, we think, will have again to be altered. The entrance hall, once crowded with gigantic fishes, requires something to do away with the idea of emptiness which cannot fail to strike a visitor, whilst the two bare benches. which are placed in it are by no means sesthetic in appearance. The west room on the ground floor, known as'the Ceylon Products' room, has much that is new, and more is promised. ZooIop" has been relegated entirely to the upper story, save the new fish room, to which we shall farther allude presently, and the minerals have been brought down- stairs. These have been very cleverly placed in cases against the wall, and make a very interesting show, though necessarily there must in time be many more specimens collected, until eventually they will require a room entirely devoted to mineralogy. "Perhaps the most interesting exhibit in this section is the se ies of fossil deposits showing the formation of the west coast of the island, frorr Dondra-Head on the south, to Karativo on the' north-west coast There are also many specimens of sea shells taken from the foresf of the Northern Province, arid a piece of fossil coral (if we may be allowed to make use of such an expression) from the summit of Tangala Hill, say, 150 feet above the sea level. This room, hiving now b-jen rendered secure with iron bars, the gold Buddhas and jewellery, wl -oh had been placed in safety after the disappearance of a portion of them, as well as the collection of coins, are now ex- hibited again in central cases. The new arrangment of the coins is eap'Joially hajipy, and this part of the collection looks peculiarly neat «-vd apprjpri-.te. The exhibition of Ceylon products is at present in- D7rific8'-.t •,.•1 altogether unworthy of the institution, but this want w:;' happily be very shortly amended on the arrival of the two hundred samples which are to come from the Indian and Colonial Exhibition in London. These will all be shown in goblet-shaped bottles, and will, without doubt, look very well. They will be supplemented, it is faopjd, by contributions supplied by the principal producers in the 410 Ceylon in the Jubilee Year. island. Perhaps the most interesting specimen at pre-ent on view is a sample of clean coffee, exhibited by the Messrs. G.