SALADS 
 
 AND 
 
 THEIR CULTIVATION. 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 ANNEX By T. W. SANDERS, F.L.S. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 The "Amateur Gardening " Office, 14S 8 149, AMerstate St„ E.G. 
 
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 1891 
 
 A:A7AAJ^ ^fl^'^I 
 
 RETURN TO 
 ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY 
 
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Cornell University Library 
 SB 322.W71 
 
 Salads and their cultivation.How to grow 
 
 3 1924 000 366 082 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
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 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
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SALADS 
 
 AND THEIR CULTIVATION. 
 
 How to Grow all kinds of Saladings in the 
 Open Air, on Hotbeds and Under Glass, by the ^ 
 most approved English and French Methods. 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 t! w! SANDERS, F.L.S., F.R.H.S. 
 
 (Kalght of the first Class, Royal Otder of Wasa, Sweden. 
 Editor of "Amateur Qardealng.") 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 LONDON : 
 W. H. & L. COLLINGRIDGE, 143 & 149, Aldersgate Street, E.G. 
 
Kz-IL^ % 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 pltlNTED lir W. U. AND L. COLLINGRTDQE, 
 
 US AND U9, ALDERSGATE STREET, E.C. 
 
FOREWORDS. 
 
 No apology is needed for publisliing a volume devoted to the 
 culture of vegetables for salad purposes. It is true the 
 subject has already received its full measure of attention in 
 books dealing with the cultivation of vegetables generally, 
 but no one seems to have hitherto deemed it worthy of the 
 'dignity and honour of a special volume. So we, in con- 
 junction with the Publishers, have come to the conclusion 
 that, as salads have become more popular as a feature in 
 our daily menus, so there has also arisen a correspondingly 
 greater demand for cultural information thereon, and this 
 fact has prompted the publication of the present handbook. 
 
 Epicures of all ages have manifested a strong partiality 
 for salads. The reader has only to peruse the historical 
 introductions to the various chapters in this work to verify 
 tiiis fact. The ancient Romans and Greeks in the hey-day of 
 their power and glory fully appreciated the cooling and 
 soothing influences of summer salads, and grew the 
 cucumber, the lettuce, and the radish, at any rate, to a large 
 extent in those far-off times. And other nations, more 
 particularly the French and Italians, have since shown their 
 full appreciation of the delicacies and virtues the salad has 
 as an adjunct to the daily cuisine. Even in this country 
 we find our forebears enjoyed their occasional '' sallet." In 
 Shakespeare's time salads were evidently well known, since iu 
 his plays references are made to the onion, lettuce, and radish. 
 In those days the salad bowl often contained such fragrant 
 herbs as thyme and marjoram, whence the Clown's remark 
 in "All's Well," " Indeed, sir, she was the Sweet Marjoram 
 of the Salad." 
 
 Later on we find the well-known wit, Sydney Smith, 
 alluding to salads in his famous verse : 
 
 " Let OnioiLs, atoms, hirk within the bowl, 
 And, scarce suspected, animate the whole." 
 
 But it is in more recent times that the virtues of salads 
 
6 FOREWORDS. 
 
 have becmue iiiDie fully appreciated by rich and pour. The 
 former have at their co:iniiaiid nowadays material fur salads 
 all the year round. The latter, too, have at their disposal 
 during the winter the succulent watercress, and in spring, 
 sunmier, and autumn there is usually an abundant and cheap 
 supply of cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, and tomatoes. Our 
 markets are usually well supplied with home-grown and 
 imported produce, and it is possible for everyone to enjoy 
 the pleasure of a mi.xed salad. 
 
 Those, however, who have gardens, greenhouses, and 
 frames have no need to rely upon market produce, which 
 is not always as fresh and succulent as it ought to be; 
 they can grow an ample supply outdoors in spring and 
 summer, and a winter and early spring supply on hotbeds 
 or under glass, and so command produce perfectly ^resh 
 and wholesome to meet their requirements. 
 
 The tomato is, of course, an indispensable ingredient in 
 a mixed salad, and equally appreciable when eaten alone, 
 and it may be wondered why we have omitted it from 
 the present volume. Well, to tell the truth, the space at 
 our di.sposal would not permit us to do justice to this fruit, 
 and as its culture has ahead}' been fully described in a 
 separate work, " Tomatoes and How to Grow Them," we have 
 deemed it best to refer the reader tq the latter source for 
 cultural details. 
 
 At the end of the -s-olume we have added a chapter giving 
 a series of recipes for making appetising salads and appro- 
 ])riate dressings, a feature wliich, we hope, Avill be of some 
 service to the reader desirous of acquainting himself with 
 tlie variety of ways in which salads may be prepared for the 
 table. 
 
 Finally, we have to acknowledge our indebtedness to 
 Mr. F. R. Castle, a skilled practical gardener, and author 
 of the work on Tomatoes alluded to above, for most of the 
 cultural information supplied in connection with each 
 salading. The rest we are responsible tor. 
 
 London, 1911. T. W. S. 
 

 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Forewords 5 
 
 Chap. I. American Land Cress — History — Culture, etc. 9 
 
 ,, II. Beet — History — Culture — Lifting and Storing — 
 
 Varieties — Pests and Diseases ... ... ... 10 
 
 ,, III. Celeriac — History — Culture — Storing — Varieties 15 
 
 IV. Celery — History — Early Crops — Main Crops — 
 Late Crops— Blanching — Varieties — Pests and 
 
 Diseases 16 
 
 V. Chervil — History — Culture— Uses 
 
 VI. Chicory — History — Culture — Blanching . 
 
 VII. Chives — History — Culture — Uses ... 
 
 VIII. Corn Salad — History — Culture— Uses . 
 
 30 
 31 
 33 
 34 
 
 IX. Cucumbers Under Glass— History — Culture in 
 Greenhouses — Feeding — Culture in Pots — 
 Culture in Winter — Culture in Frames — 
 Renovating Exhausted Plants — Varieties — 
 Pests and Diseases 36 
 
 X. Cucumbers in the Open Air — History — Cul- 
 ture — Varieties ... ... ... ... ... 51 
 
 XI. Dandelion — History — Culture — Varieties — 
 
 Blanching 57 
 
 XII. Endive — History— ^Varieties — Culture — Blanch- 
 ing — Culture ill Frames — Pests eind Diseases 58 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Cliap. XIII. Lettioe— History— Culture for Early Supplies — 
 Varieties for Early Use— Culture for Summer 
 Use - Varieties for Summer Use -Winter 
 Lettuce — Varieties for ^Vinter Use — Winter 
 Crop in Frames -Yoiuig Lettuce for Salads — 
 Pests anrl Diseises ... ... 62 
 
 ., XIV. >liT,-iTARD AND Crk-is — History — Culture... ... 70 
 
 ,, XV. Nasturthtm — History— Culture— Uses 72 
 
 ,, XVI. Onion — History— Culture Out Doors— Citlture 
 
 under Glass — Pesis — Varieties... ... ... 73 
 
 „ XVII. Purslane— History— Culture— Uses 79 
 
 „ XVIII. Radish — History— Culture Out Doors- Culture 
 in Frames — Varieties — AVinter Rid'shes — 
 Pests 80 
 
 ., XIX. Rampiok — History— Culture -Uses 85 
 
 ,, XX. ShaIjI-ot — History — Culture — Lifting and Stor- 
 ing — Varieties — Pests ' ... ... ... ... 86 
 
 ,, XXI. Sorrel — Historj — Culture — Varieties— Utes ... 88 
 
 ,, XXII. Watercress— History — Cilture in Ditches — In 
 Shallow Streams — In Trenches — In Pans — 
 Pests 90 
 
 „ XXIII. Frenoi Method, — Primary Features — Manure — 
 Beds — Frames and Cloches — Soiling the 
 Beds — The Crops — (Jeneral Details — Varieties 
 — Out-door Cropping ... ... ... ... 9.3 
 
 ,, XXIV. Some Salad Recipes ■■ 99 
 
 Table of Saladinus ... .. ... 105 
 
<ii^ii> <^M, age a^ a^M> age 
 
 Salads and their Cultivation, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 AMERICAN LAND CRESS. 
 
 A VARIETY of the Common Winter Cress (Barbarea vulgaris) 
 and a native of this country. It belongs to the Cabbage 
 family (Cruciferae), and is of biennial or perennial duration. 
 The flavour of the young shoots is much like that of the 
 Water Cress, and in spring and winter the former make a 
 jaleasiug addition to the salad bowl. This Cress is largely 
 grown on the Continent and in America as a salad vegetable. 
 
 Culture. — Sow the seeds in September for a winter and 
 spring supply. Draw drills 9in. apart and veiy shallow, and 
 sow the seeds thinly therein. Should the weather be dry give 
 an occasional watering to promote a speedy gennination. A 
 sowing may also be made in March for a summer supply; 
 but, considering there are so many other saladings available 
 at that period, and which are so much more delicate in 
 flavour, it is hardly worth while growing Land Cress in 
 summer. 
 
 The shoots or the leaves may be gathered as soon as large 
 enough to handle. After gathering, new shoots will forrn, 
 
I'l SALADS. 
 
 and so keep up a successioual supply. Souie ^niwers trans- 
 plant the seedlings 6in. apart each way, and protect in 
 severe weather with cloches or a cold frame, but tliis is 
 rarely necessary. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 BEET. 
 
 Beta mahitima in its wild form is ii native of our seashores, 
 but the tj-pe of the cultivated forms we grow in our gardens 
 to-day was introduced into England about the year 154y. 
 Long before that period the Greeks and Romans grew both 
 black and white varieties, but appear to have used the leaves 
 only. To-day we attach no importance to the leaves — except 
 in the case of the Silver Beet — using the roots onlv as a 
 saladinn;. 
 
 Tlie Bjet is related to the Mangold Wurzel and to the Sugar 
 Beet, which is so extensively grown on the Continent for 
 yielding sugar. It belongs to the natural order Chenopo- 
 diaceas, and is of biennial duration. 
 
 The roots when boiled are held in high estimation as a 
 component of a good autumn and winter salad. They also 
 make an excellent pickle, and form a most nourishing and 
 appetising article of food. An old writer remarks that: "A 
 beet-root, sliced up with a Reading or Spanisli onion, boiled 
 also in soft water, will be found a nice condiment with cold 
 meat, if mixed with spices and vinegar and an egg or two 
 boiled hard." 
 
 Either as a salad or a vegetable the roots have gradually 
 won their way into the favour of all classes of the commu- 
 nitv, it being very seldom we find even a cottage garden 
 w^hich does not boast at least a few rows. This in itself is 
 
BEET. 
 
 11 
 
 sufficient te-tiiiinny tn the easy enltnie ui beet. As a matter 
 iif fact, l)eet luay lie umwu (in alnmst anv Miils ami in nearly 
 all localities. Kven in tlie small L;aiilens anmnd tlie very 
 heart nf mir lar^e tnwns ami cities, inclmlinL;' Lnmlmi, ^\■e 
 have seen rcints sutficiently lai;L;x' t'nr an\" [lurinise i;-in\vn with 
 no further aid tluui a thorough digging in the prc\ioUf 
 spring. 
 
 Turnip-Rooted Beet, 
 A iruotl type of Beet tj iirow in .shallow £<i;i. 
 
 For Early Salads — The most useful variety to sow 
 ill order to obtain roots of fair size for inelmhng in salads 
 during the early summer months will he found in the (ilobe 
 or Turnip-rooted section. These, being of much ipiieker 
 growth, may be depended upon to produce roots of a ser- 
 viceable size long before the others commence to till out, 
 Tliev ha\"e also the additional advantage of being thor(.iiigldy 
 relialile for growing on shallow-, stony soils, where, without 
 special cultivation, the hnig varieties refuse to furnish any- 
 thing above the size of a decent French radish. 
 
 Earlv in April sow the seed in drills a foot apart, placing 
 
12 SALADS. 
 
 the seeds at a distance of 6iii. to Sin. apart. As soon as the 
 plants appear above the ground keep u, sharp lookout for 
 birds, wliieh often cause much annoj-ance by devouring the 
 young leaves. AVliere tliis is feared protect the bed for a few 
 weeks l)y means of ordinary fish or wire netting. When the 
 leaves get about the size of a shilling the netting may be 
 removed, and if a good dusting of old soot is scattered 
 among the plants, and well stirred into the soil with the hoe, 
 it will harden the growth, and, provided ordinary climatic 
 conditions prevail, roots of fair size should be ready for use 
 liy tlie middle of June. 
 
 General Crop— The first week in May will be quite 
 ■siiou euouo-li to sow seed for obtainino; roots for the winter 
 supply; and if good, well-shaped roots of high colour are 
 desired, it is essential that the bed intended for growing 
 them should be thoroughly well dug with a good spade a 
 short time before sowing the seed; on no account must 
 fresli manure be added, but after digging give the soil a 
 good dressing of soot or wood ashes, if obtainable. On land 
 of a light, sandy uatme, a sprinkling of common salt at the 
 rate of 2oz. to each square yard, well raked in, '•will keep 
 the ground moist, and materially assist in the production 
 of good roots. 
 
 How the seed in drills about 15in. apart, and when the 
 seedlings are well tlirough the soil thin them out to Sin. or 
 !)iu. apart in the rows. At this distance roots large enough 
 for all ordinary purposes may be secured. 
 
 If, through any seeds failing to germinate or other causes, 
 blank spaces are present in the rows there is no reason why 
 this should remain so, thus spoiling the appearance of the 
 bed throughout the season ; for, if carefully handled and kept 
 shaded bj' means of an inverted flower-pot, these thinnings 
 transplant quite safely. A few weeks later give another 
 dressing of soot and salt, stirring it well into the soil with 
 the Dutch hoe, and, provided the bed is kept free from 
 weeds, no further trouble need be taken until the crop is 
 ready for lifting. 
 
BEET. 
 
 13 
 
 Lifting^ and Storing- the Roots At the end uf 
 
 October rarefully lift eacli root with a fork, taking care not 
 tn Ijreak or bruise the specimeub in any way, or they will lose 
 colour when cooked. Twist — not cut — off the tops just above 
 the crown, and store the best and most evenly shaped ones in 
 dry sand. Those of small size and indifferent shape should 
 l)e allowed to remain in the open shed for use as required. 
 Particular care should be exercised in storing the roots in a 
 shed, outhouse, or cellar where frost cannot easily penetrate, 
 
 LoXO-RonTED EkET. 
 
 A crood kind tn gviiv,- in deep well-tilled snils. 
 
 since Ijcet is very easily injurc(l by frost. Some prowei's 
 stoi'e their lieet in clamps outdoors, ])ut we prefer nc.t to 
 run the lisk of theii' being injured in severe winters. 
 
 Varieties. — (>ood varieties of long-rooted beet are : 
 Nutting's Dwarf Pinea])p>le, ]\Iiddleton Park Favourite, Dell's 
 Superb Black, and Blood Red; while Sutton's Globe and the 
 
 l'"L^'vptiaii aic eipially goo<l sorts of the Turnip-i'ooted section. 
 
14 SALADS. 
 
 Pests. — The chief pests attacking Beet are the Beet 
 ('anion Beetle, Beet Flj-, and the Leather Jacket Grub. 
 
 Tlie Beet Carrion Beetle (Silpha opaca) and its black, 
 shiny, w(i(5d-lo\ise-like larvaj feed on the leaves, the latter 
 esjiccially so after dusk. A good remedy is to mix together 
 a peck (if slaked lime, lib. of flowers of sulphur, and 21b. of 
 siKit, and to sprinkle this over the foliage and land early in 
 the niorniiig. 
 
 The Beet Fly (Aiithomyia betne) lays its eggs on the under 
 sides of the leaves, and the resultant yellowish-white or ■ 
 o'lecnish maggots eat their waj- into the tissues, feed upon 
 them, and cause tlie leaves to shrivel. When fully grown 
 tliey escape, bury themselves in the ground, pupate, and 
 eventually appear as flies to lay further eggs. Keep the soil 
 well stirred between tlie plants so as to harass the flies, and 
 dress the soil before sowing with a soil fuiiiigant to kill the 
 ]iup:e in the earth. 
 
 The Leather Jacket Grub, the larva of the Daddy-long- 
 legs, or Crane Fly (Tipula oleracea), sometimes attacks the 
 routs, either biting them through whilst yo\ing, or later 
 gnawing holes in them. The grubs are easily recognised )iy 
 their blunt tail and absence of legs. A good dressing of a 
 soil insecticide before sowing will help to get rid of this pest. 
 
 Diseases. — A fungoid disease called the Beet Rust 
 (Uiomyces lieta^) occasionally attacks the foliage of b3et, caus- 
 ing a rusty mould to form which cripples the growth of the 
 plants. Leaves attacked thus are best picked off and burnt. 
 It is ver\- seldoju that tliis disease occurs in such a virulent 
 ft.rni as to need the application of fungicides. 
 
CELERIAC. 15 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CELERIAC. 
 
 Cbleiiiac is a variety of celery, and appears to have origin- 
 ated on the Continent. The name is said to be Italian, and 
 it was formerly known in this country as " smallage." It 
 differs from the ordinary celery in having short, hollow leaf- 
 stems, which are of bitter flavour and useless for culinary 
 pui-poses, and a short, swollen, turnip-like root. On the 
 latter account it is usually called the Turnip-rooted Celery. 
 Botanically Celeriac is known as Apium graveolens rapaceum. 
 These roots, by the way, often attain the "weight of one 
 or moi-e p6unds. They are usually cut up into slices when 
 used as a salading, and they may also be cooked and served 
 as a vegetable, or be used for flavouring soups. Moreover, 
 unlike ordinary celery, it is possible to lift the roots in 
 autumn and store them, similarly to beetroot, for future 
 use. 
 
 Culture. — Seed should be sown in boxes during April 
 and the young plants transplanted 1ft. apart into shallow 
 trenches, or on a piece of heavily-manured ground where 
 abundance of water may be given during July and August. 
 No further attention than keeping the soil free from weeds 
 will be required. No blanching will be necessa,ry, but the 
 roots must be taken up in November and stored in a shed 
 for use as required. A large sowing is not recommended 
 until, a few roots have been grown for trial purposes. 
 
 When planting remove all suckers, and see, moreover, that 
 the yo\mg knob or swollen base is not buried too deeply in 
 the soil. When the stems are nearly fully grown draw a 
 little earth aroimd to cause them to assume a white or pale 
 appearance. Celeriac otherwise is one of the most easily 
 cultivated of all salad vegetables. 
 
16 SALADS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 Celery (Apium graveolens) is a near relative of the Parsley. 
 and l)eloii<;',s to the same natural order (UnibelliferK!). The 
 wild f'oi'iu of it is to be met with in inland and seaside ditclies, 
 but in this state it is poiscmous, and therefore unfit for human 
 food, 
 
 The old name of "cellery," or " sellery," is derived from 
 a (Ireek word, " selinon." When the cultivated form was 
 first introduced we are unable to say, but it must have 
 l)6en grown here for at least two hundred years. London 
 and Wise, in their "Complete Gardener," published in 1702, 
 devote considerable space to its culture ; and Philip Miller, in 
 his "Gardener's Dictionary," dated 1731, describes the cul- 
 ture of two kinds of Celery, or "salary,'' viz., the Italian 
 Celery and the Geleriack already alluded to in the previous 
 chapter. 
 
 Another author, named Rogers, writing in 1832, remarks: 
 " The cultivation of oelery has come much into repute within 
 these forty years." 
 
 At the present day Celery is one of the most popular of 
 our salad vegetables, and few who have space for growing 
 vegetables fail to plant a row or so of it. Hundreds of 
 acres, especially, in the Northern Counties, are, moreover, 
 devoted to Celery culture by market gardeners. 
 
 As a winter salad few things find more ready acceptance 
 than well-grown celery ; and, owing to the fact that good, 
 well-blanched sticks are seldom procurable at less than two- 
 pence each, in those houses where the consumption is large 
 the expense entailed in purchasing the winter's supply forms 
 a by no me-aus small item; therefore, whenever possible, the 
 owners of small gardens are advised to avoid this by growing 
 their own. 
 
Pkizk Sticks ok Cei-ekv. 
 
 [Photo: E. Pye. 
 
 A phot.f of i'lmr sticks of Celo-y tliiit were :iwardod the silver cup, 
 preyeiited hy (Joimcillor T. <T:iriic"tt, at the Clitheroe Cottagers' Show, 
 ami wim twii yiiecHs.-iv years by Mr. T. \Vilkiii,«nij, of Clitherop. 
 
i» SALADS. 
 
 We maj' as well say at the outset that, in order to grow 
 I'eall}- gooii sticks, the cultivator must be prepared to go to 
 (■(insiderable trouble, not only in preparing the trenches, but 
 also in paying strict attention to detail from the moment the 
 seed is sown until the sticks are perfectly blanched and ready 
 for the table; for it is not too much to say that neglect in 
 this direction often leads to most disappointing results. On 
 the contrary, provided the needs of the plant are well attende<l 
 to, no crop in the kitchen garden will give more sure and 
 satisfactory results. By sowing at intervals it is quite pos- 
 sible to have celery in good condition for at least eight months 
 in the year ; and, owing to the fact that during the other four 
 months a plentiful supply of various other salads enumerated 
 in this book are available, celeiy can at that time well be 
 dispensed with. 
 
 Early Crop. — In order to get good representative sticks 
 Ijy the first week in August it is very important the seed 
 should be sown early in the year, certainly not later than the 
 first week in February ; and for this sowing it will be neces- 
 saiy to -command a minimum temperature of at least 5.5 deg. 
 by night, with an increase of 10 deg. during the daytime. 
 Owing to the unifonn gentle heat of a well-prepared hotbed, 
 such as it is usual to find at this season in cucumber or melon 
 liouses, this will be found the most satisfactory way of raising 
 the 3'omig plants. 
 
 The pot or pan it is intended to sow the seeds in should be 
 well drained by half-filling it with broken crocks, cinders, or 
 small stones, over which a nice layer of moss or other material 
 should he placed in order to prevent the subsequent waterings 
 washing the fine soil into the drainage, and preventing the 
 free passage of surplus water. 
 
 The soil should be composed of loam, leaf-soil, and coarse 
 sand in equal parts, the whole to be passed through a small- 
 meshed sieve, covering the moss with a portion of the rough 
 mateiial left in the sieve. This will form a perfectly-drained 
 seed-pan, and ensure a good start liy having plants well 
 furnished with good, healthy roots at transplanting time. 
 
CELERY, 19 
 
 instead of the half-decayed condition of these, usually result- 
 ing from a badly-drained seed -pan. 
 
 " Sow the seed thinly " is a golden rule to be observed at 
 this and each successive sowing, but one which is seldom 
 heeded either by amateur or professional gardeners; for, owing 
 to the seeds being small and cheap, it is safe to assert that 
 80 per cent, more seed is sown than plants will be required, 
 the result being an overcrowded seed-pan. Moreover, the 
 ciiances of obtaining good sticks, free from " bolting," is con- 
 sidef ablj- jeopardised from the very commencement, and either 
 the seedsman or the variety is wrongly blamed. 
 
 Previous to sowing the seed it will be a good plan to cover 
 the surface with fine silver sand, pressed fairly firm and left 
 quite level. Tliis allows the sower to sow the seed in such 
 a manner that each stands clear of its neighbour. The few 
 extra minutes- this entails is well repaid with good interest 
 through the fact that the inevitable transplanting may be de- 
 layed until the seedlings have become quite strong — a very 
 important item in these days of little light and sunshine. 
 Cover with veiy fine soil, and water the pan through the 
 finest-rosed can you have, afterwards placing or plunging 
 it up level with the rim in the hotbed, covering with a sheet 
 of glass or brown paper. Watch carefully for the appearance 
 of the first seedling, and on no account allow the soil to be- 
 come very dry. 
 
 As soon as germination takes place remove the paper and 
 gradually admit air each day by tilting the glass by means 
 of a small piece of wood, until the seedlings have become suffi- 
 ciently large and strong to allow of its removal. 
 
 During dull weather watering is best done by partially 
 immersing the pan in tepid water until the surface becomes 
 moist, overhead watering at this stage often resulting in a 
 good number of the seedlings damping ofiE. WTien the plants 
 have formed three or four true leaves it will be necessary to 
 transplant them; and, although it is often advised that for 
 this early crop each plant should now be given a small pot, 
 we fail to see much advantage in it, not only on account of 
 the extra time and room this will require, but chieflv owing 
 
 c 2 
 
21) SALADS, 
 
 to the trouble in keeping these small pots well supplied with 
 water, there is always the danger of some being overlooked — 
 a sure forerunner of premature "bolting." Instead of pots 
 we advise boxes about 4in. deep being used, the bottoms of 
 which, after having several fair-sized holes drilled through 
 them, to be well covered with old leaves and well-decayed 
 manure. These boxes should be filled with a compost of equal 
 ]iarts loam, leaf-soil, sand, and old hotbed manure, passed 
 through an inch sieve, and pressed firmly into the boxes. It 
 will be found that celery roots much quicker in a fairly firm 
 than in a loose compost. Allow a substantial margin for 
 the thoroug-h waterings wliich will become necessary befoie 
 the plants are ready for another shift. 
 
 Allow each plant plenty of room, certainly not less than 
 two inches, and, after sprinkling overhead — avoid giving a 
 heavy watering — shade the box from strong sunshine for 
 several days by means of newspapers stood either in front or 
 over them until the roots, having taken hold of the new soil, 
 are strong enough to withstand its power without flagging. 
 An airy shelf near the glass will now be the best place for the 
 boxes, and the soil between the plants sliould be lightlj- stirre<l 
 witli a pointed stick twice each week vmtil the plants toucli 
 each cither. (iieeiifly often puts in an appearance at this 
 stage, and the proper remedies should be employed to get rid 
 of it. 
 
 B\' the time the plants touch each other they will have 
 become 4in. high, and it will now be advisable to give them 
 a shift into 4Mn. pots, using a similar compost to that they 
 are already growing in, and, provided it is rubbed through 
 the hands and insects removed, sifting will not now be neces- 
 sary. Pot firmly and return to the -shelf for a few days, 
 after which the best place will be a bed of coal ashes in 
 a cold frame. Here they must have abundance of air and 
 mistinted supplies of water until ready for planting out into 
 tlje trenches during the first fortnight in May. 
 
 When planting allow each not less than 1ft. nui of trench, 
 anil a mouth after planting out it will lie q>iite safe to com- 
 mence feeding with weak stimulants, gradually increasing the 
 
CELERY. 21 
 
 strength as growtli proceeds. (See Feeding.) Do not allow 
 the plants to produce suckers, and keep the leaves well tied 
 up with bast or other soft tying material. 
 
 Blanching the Early Crop — For blanching these 
 early rows nothing is better than brown paper ; and if sheets 
 of this, of double thickness to form collars, are placed aroimd 
 each stick in such a manner as to exclude light, this portion 
 will be found in good condition either for table or exhibition 
 three weeks or a month later. When used for blanching pur- 
 poses brown paper has the additional advantage of allowing 
 sun and air reaching tlie roots, thereby increasing the growth, 
 and manure water may be freely given without discolouring 
 the sticks. Another advantage claimed for paper over earth 
 is that the man who grows his sticks for exhibition is able 
 t(i watch the blanching process occasionally, and see at a 
 glance which are the specimens best suited for his purpose, 
 without having to dig up several dozen before forming a de- 
 cision — a by no means uncommon occurrence when the rows 
 are earthed up in the usual way. 
 
 Main Crop. — From the first week to the end of March 
 will be found the most suitable time for making the general 
 sowing of celery for raising plants under glass; and, owing 
 to the increased light and heat from tlie sun, a hotbed will 
 not be so necessary as for the previous sowing; but the im- 
 portance of sowing the seed thinly will apply with equal force 
 not only on account of the labour saving this ensures, but 
 also because an overcrowded seed-pan is a great evil, the 
 disastrous results of which are not apparent until a couple of 
 months after being placed into their permanent positions, 
 when, instead of producing what weis expected of them, the 
 majority run to seed and become absolutely worthless for any 
 purpose. The advice given earlier in this chapter regarding 
 the preparation of the soil and seed-pan apply here, and any 
 warm structure will be suitable for pot or pan after the seed 
 is sown. It is, however, very important to provide a cover- 
 ing of glass, for this, in addition to keeping the soil uniformly 
 
-- SALADS. 
 
 iiKiist until geriumatiou takes place, also ensures a more even 
 geriiiiiiatiou. Failing a sheet of glass, a piece of paper will 
 answer the purpose, although in a less satisfactory degree, 
 and must, of course, be removed as soon as the seedlings 
 appear above the surface. 
 
 When the plants from this sowing are large enough to 
 handle they shoiild be transplanted into shallow boxes, as 
 advised for the early crop ; or, batter still, should a cold frame 
 be vacant partly fill this with a quantitj' of old horse or cow 
 manure, leaving room for a covering several inches thick of 
 rich soil whicli has been passed through a half-inch sieve, 
 which, after being pressed fairly firm, should not be more 
 than 6in. to 8in. from the glass. Transplant the seedlings 
 into this at a distance of 2in. or 3in. apart. After giving a 
 thorough watering tlirough a fine-rosed can replace the light, 
 and cover with a mat or other light shading for the next two 
 or three days, syringing the interior of the frame with tepid 
 water every morning aljout nine o'clock. At the end of this 
 time the roots will have taken hold of the soil, and the 
 shading may be removed and abundance of air admitted, 
 cautiously at first, always avoiding cold winds blowing 
 direetly on the plants, or greenfly will surely put in its 
 appearance. 
 
 Continue to syringe tlie frame twice each day, and take 
 care the roots are kept uniforndy moist, excesses either of 
 drought or moisture Ijeing carefully guarded against as being 
 prejudicial to tlie future welfare of the crop. 
 
 Treated thus, the first week in June should witness the 
 frame filled with good, strong plants, and, owing to the room 
 allowed for development and ricli rooting material in which 
 they are growing, may by the aid of a trowel be lifted with 
 balls of soil as large as hens' eggs. Such plants as these soon 
 establish themselves after being placed into trenches; and, 
 provided due attention be paid to their requirements, can 
 scarcely fail to give good results. 
 
 By general consent the trench system is the proper way to 
 grow good celery, the plants requiring so much liquid nourish- 
 ment that were no trench provided it would be almost impos- 
 
CELERY. 23 
 
 sible "to grow sticks of large size and good quality. But there 
 is no need why these trenches should be taken out to the 
 great depth thought by many to be necessary, 20in. being 
 ample on even the lightest soils, while 15in. will be found 
 quite sufficient on those of a retentive nature. This depth 
 allows for a fairly heavy dressing of manure being placed in 
 the bottom, and 6in. of good soil placed on the top, which 
 leaves quite sufficient space, from the surface to allow water 
 being given in unstinted quantities without waste. Plants 
 growing in deep trenches a long way from the surface invari- 
 ably become drawn, and as a result the constitution is 
 weakened to such an extent that, no matter how good the 
 after-culture may be, they never become the sturdy plants 
 they would otherwise have been. 
 
 In order to 'economise water and labour celery is often 
 grown two, or even three, rows of plants in a single trench ; 
 therefore the width of the trench and distance apart must be 
 governed by the system it is intended to adopt. A trench 
 1ft. wide is usually found suitable where only a single row 
 of plants is to be grown, and 18in. for a double row; while 
 anyone attempting to grow three rows in one trench should 
 certainly not attempt to do so in a trench less than 2 ft in width. 
 
 The distance between the trenches will depend on how 
 many plants there are to be grown in each, always allowing 
 plenty of soil being available for earthing and protecting pur- 
 poses. For single rows 4ft. will usually be found sufficient, 
 but for the double or treble rows nothing less than 6ft. should 
 be allowed, or in some cases, when good cultivation has been 
 follo"sved by continual autumn rains, it will often be found that 
 the plants make such abundant growth that, where insuffi- 
 cient soil was left between the rows for earthing purposes, a 
 foot or more of the top growth is rendered worthless through 
 remaining unblanched. In cases such as these it will be found 
 a good plan to tie bands of brown paper or straw round the 
 tops, which often proves quite satisfactory. 
 
 Late Crop. — Seeds for providing plants for a late crop 
 of celery may be sown either on a mild hotbed or a piece 
 
24 SALADS. 
 
 of finely - [irepMred soil in the open garden any time 
 during the ninntli of April, a sowing under these 
 conditions often being far more satisfactory than one made 
 under glass, as advised for the earlier crops, although when 
 sown in the open garden some sort of protection should always 
 be provided to ensure the seeds having a fair chance. There- 
 fore, after sowing the seed and watering it well in, protect 
 the bed from fierce sun heat, either by means of glass-paper 
 or a few thicknesses of wire or fish-netting, and on no account 
 allow the bed to become dust dry. This sowing will often 
 furnish good plants for occujjying the ground after the earliest 
 dwarf peas are cleared away, and where it is intended to 
 adopt this course very little prcjiaration of the soil will be 
 needed, for, assuming the ground to have been well manured 
 and dug for the peas, a light forking over and deep drills 
 drawn out with a rake will answer the purpose. 
 
 Earthingr-up and Blanching:. — Directions for 
 l.ilauching the early crop have already been given on p. 21. 
 Tlie main and late crops, however, to be treated differentlj-. 
 ronunence the eaithing-up of the main crop in August and 
 the late crop in September. If the weather should be dry 
 give the roots a good soaking of water, then remove all 
 offsets or suckers from the base of each plant, draw the 
 leaf-stems fairly close together, and secure them with a 
 piece of bast. The latter operation is essential to prevent 
 soil getting into the heart and setting up decay later on. 
 Break down the adjoining soil as finely as possible, and then, 
 by means of the hands, pack this firmly around each plant 
 to the height of 4in. or 6in. Choose a fine day for tlie 
 operation. At intervals of ten days add more soil, until at 
 the final earthing, early in October, the soil reaches the base 
 <.if the leaves ; then cease, finishing off the sides to a gentle 
 slope and making them smooth with the back of the spade. 
 
 Protecting Late Celery — Although most varieties 
 of celery may usually be relied upon to pass through an 
 ordinary English winter with no further protection than 
 that which the. ordinary earthing aflfords, where a late supply 
 
CELERY. 25 
 
 is valued it will be unwise to leave a row of good plants fully 
 exposed during tlie most severe weatlier. Therefore it is 
 highly advisable to provide protecting material of some kind. 
 Hay, straw, bracken, and mats are all useful in their way, 
 and answer the purpose fairly well, but a more certain pro- 
 tection is assured by means of long, wide boards nailed 
 together to form troughs, the width of these being governed 
 by the number of rows of plants in the trench it is desired 
 to protect. 
 
 If at tlie approach of bad weather these are placed along 
 the tops of the row of celery, they not only prove useful in 
 warding off frosts, but also prevent the heavy rain reaching 
 the centre of the sticks, thus causing the plant to rot. In 
 some seasons this is the cause of the most promising crops in 
 a short time becoming quite worthless. 
 
 Needless to say, whatever covering is used should always 
 be removed during a period of exceptionally mild weather, 
 or much harm may follow. 
 
 Feeding^ Celery. — Celery being of such strong growth, 
 it follows that, no matter how well the trenches were pre- 
 pared for it, if the best results are aimed at, feeding will 
 become absolutely necessary, and when once the plants are 
 well established in the trenches manure water of some kind 
 may be given with a free hand. 
 
 Probably sewage or water from the cesspit is about the 
 ijjost powerful of all manures, and best calculated to produce 
 gigantic sticks; and, where this is the object in view, the 
 grower is advised to take the necessary steps to ensure a 
 supply, taking care to use it only in a weak state at first, 
 gradually increasing the strength and frequency of applica- 
 tion from once a week at first until it is given every alternate 
 day. Sewage, however, although admittedly a rich fer- 
 tiliser, is scarcely advisable for use from a hygienic point 
 
 of view. j-i i J 
 
 Drainings from the stables or cowsheds used m a diluted 
 
 state forms one of the most popular stimulants among large 
 
 growers, varying it occasionally with one of the others men- 
 
-" SALADS. 
 
 tioiieil; for celerv, like most cultivated plants, soon becomes 
 !>ick (if any one particular plant food. Where neither cows 
 nor horses are kept, the grower should obtain a supply of ' 
 fresh dropping-s from a neighbour, and if about a peck of 
 eitlier is placed in a coarse bag, and allowed to remain 
 leveral daj's in a tub containing twenty gallons of water, a 
 good stimulant will be ready for use without further diluting. 
 After twice filling the tub with clear water the bag should 
 he taken out and a fresh supply of manure provided. 
 
 Soot-water is one of the very finest stimulants known to 
 growers of celery, and the finest stick we ever saw was grown 
 with its aid alone. Soot-water is prepared in the same way 
 as advised for cow manure, care being taken not to use it 
 in a thick state, but, after well agitating the bag, allow the 
 liquid to stand an hour before using. 
 
 Next to these home-made liquid manures superphosphate 
 of liius is, perhaps, the cheapest fertiliser obtainable, good 
 results often following the use of this alone. It may be 
 stirred into the water at the rate of a fair-sized handful to 
 three gallons of water, to be well stirred immediately before 
 using; or, if preferred, good results will follow a weekly 
 application of the powder in a dry state, using a heaped 
 teaspoonful to each plant when 1ft. high, or scattered along 
 the row at the rate of a handful to each lineal yard, stirring 
 it into the soil with a pointed stick. 
 
 Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia are valuable aids 
 to the growth of good sticks of celery, being very powerful 
 and quick in action when used on a row of well-established 
 celery ; but it should not l)e used too freqiiently, and never 
 in excess of an oimce to each gallon of water, or the growth 
 will be unduly forced, and pithy sticks will result. 
 
 Canary, fish, or Peruvian guano are all excellent when 
 used at the rate recommended by the vendors ; but in using 
 these, as with all others mentioned, care must be taken to 
 keep it off the leaves and out of the hearts of the plants. 
 
 In concluding our remarks on feeding it may be necessary 
 to point out the importance of using manure water only when 
 the soil is moist; therefore in periods of drought a thorough 
 
28 SALADS. 
 
 sjjikiiig I if clear water should be given to the rows several 
 huurs before manure water of any kind is applied. 
 
 Varieties. — A^arieties of celery are now Aery numerous, 
 and the grower who only intends growing a few short rows 
 for home consumption will be jnctty safe in making a selec- 
 tion from tlie list offered by most seedsmen; but it is worth 
 bearing in mind that tlie white varieties are chiefly grown 
 for the very early supplies, and the most popular in this 
 section are: Wright's Giant, Incomparable, White Gem, Solid 
 White, or Cole's Crystal. Either of these are reliable for all 
 jiurposes. Among the rcils and pinks the most widely grown 
 are: Sidlianj Prize, Standard Bearer, Sutton's Al, Clayworth 
 Prize, Webb's Mannuoth, or Ahlenliam Puik. 
 
 Pests. — There are ouly two serious enemies to consider 
 in connection Avith tlie Celery crop, and these are the Celery 
 Fly Maggot, a most troublesome pest in some seasons; and 
 the Celery Stem Fly Maggot. 
 
 Tlie (.'elery FI3' (Tephritis onopordinus) laj's its eggs on 
 the leaf, and the resultant maggots at once penetrate tlie 
 epideniiis and form tunnels in the tissues, and feed upon 
 the latter, causing large, pale blisters to form. There are 
 two or three broods during the season. When fully grown 
 tlie maggots escape and pupate in the soil. It is useless ' 
 trying to kill tlie maggots within the leaf by syringing with 
 an insecticide, as the epidermis protects them from the fluid. 
 (Iiice leaves are infested pick off and bum them forthwith. 
 To prevent the flies la5'ing eggs on the leaves spray them 
 oicasionall}' from the moment the plants are placed outdoors 
 witli the following preparation : Mix half a gallon of tar with 
 a gallon of water, and place this on a fire outdoors until it 
 boils. AVhen cool add 50 gallons of water, and spray the 
 foliage with it. Dress the plot in autumn, after the crop 
 is used, with a soil fumigant to destroy the pupae. 
 
 Another pest is the Celery Stem Fly (Piophila apii). The 
 yellowish-white maggots bore into the root-stock of the plant 
 and then up through the leaf stalks, causing rusty patches to 
 
CELERY. 29 
 
 form thereon. The only remedy is a preventive one, namely, 
 dressing the land before planting with a soil fumigant or 
 with ground lime. 
 
 The larvas of the Small Swift Moth (Hepialiis lupulinus) 
 sometimes attack the leaf stalks and roots of celery in 
 autumn. Dress the soil with a soil fumigant. 
 
 Diseases. — The Celery Leaf Blight (r'ercospori apii) is 
 a fungoid disease, very prevalent in wet seasons, causing 
 pale spots to form on the leaves, and seriously injuring the 
 growth. Once the disease appears the only remedy is to cut 
 off and bum the diseased portions. Spraying the foliage 
 early in the season witli a solution of carbonate of copper 
 prepared as follows will act as a preventive : Mix together 
 one ounce of carbonate of copper, half a pint of liqviid 
 ammonia, and two quarts of water, then add water to make 
 ten gallons. 
 
 The Celery Heart Rot (Sclerotinia sclerotioiiim) is a fun- 
 goid disease which attacks the hearts of the plants, causing 
 them to become soft and rotten. Every plant found with a 
 I'otten heart should be promptly bairnt to prevent tlie fungus 
 attacking otlier plants the next year. 
 
 Celery Leaf Spot (Phyllosticta apii) is another fungoid 
 disease, which causes large brown spots to form on the leaves. 
 Occasionally the patches are blackisli and very numerous, 
 tlius seriously crippling the gi'owth of the plants. The only 
 remedy appears to be to burn all diseased leaves. 
 
 Celery Leaf Scorch (Septoria petroselini) appears in the 
 form of brown patches on the leaves when the plants are 
 about ready to lift for use. The disease spreads rapidly and 
 soon spoils the crop. Bum all diseased foliage, and spray 
 early in the season with a solution of sulphide of potassium, 
 one oimce to three gallons of water. 
 
 Celery Leaf Rust (Puccinia bullata) attacks celery foliage 
 in tlie form of a brown rust. Spraying early in the season 
 with dilute Bordeaux Mixture is a good preventive remedy. 
 Diseased leaves should be burnt. 
 
3u SALADS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 CHERVIL. 
 
 The Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is a verj' old vegetable, 
 and lias loiii^' ))een used for salads and flavouring soups. It 
 is an annual, belongs to the parsley order (Umbelliferse), and 
 is a native of the Levant and various parts of Europe. 
 
 (lerarde, the old herbalist, grew it in his garden at Holborn 
 (London) in the sixteenth centur}'. His garden is supposed 
 to have occupied the site of the present-day district known 
 as Hatton Garden. He recommended it to "be eaten with 
 oil and vinegar, being first boiled, which is very good for old 
 people that are dull and without courage; it rejoiceth and 
 coniforteth the lieart, and increaseth their strength." 
 
 John Parkinson, in his " Paradisi in Sole," a work pub- 
 lished in 1629, says; ''The Common Chervil is much used 
 of the French and Dutch people, to bee boj'led or stewed in 
 a pigskin, eytlier by it selfe, or with other herbes, whereof 
 they make a Loblolly, and so eate it. It is used as a pot- 
 herbe with us." 
 
 Chervil apparently was a popular herb in tliosfr times, more 
 so than now. To-day, though, it is grown in all large gar- 
 dens, as the leaves possess a most refreshing aroma, which 
 adds n-ieatly to the flavour and zest of a good mixed salad. 
 
 Culture. — This is a very simple business. Sow in shal- 
 low drills 9in. apart, in any ordinary soil in a sunny part of 
 the garden. Sowings may be made at intervals of a montli 
 from' March tn September. Where only a small quantity is 
 required sow seeds broadcast at the base of currant or goose- 
 berry bushes. Make the last sowing on a sunny south 
 border, where the plants can be protected by cloches in 
 seveie weather. 
 
 The leaves are ready to gather in six weeks after sowing. 
 A wintei' supply may lie had by sowing the seeds in shallow 
 boxes placed in gentle heat. 
 
CHICORY. 31 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CHICORY. 
 
 The cultivated Chicory, or f'liristmas Salad, as it is soine- 
 timeis called, is an improved form of the Wild Succory 
 (Cichorium iutybus) of our roadsides and chalky downs. It 
 belongs to the daisy order (Composite), and is of perennial 
 duration Althoug;h long held in high esteem on the Con- 
 tinent, it does not appear to have been cultivated in Eng- 
 land prior to the last century. Anyway, one can find no 
 reference to it in earlier published works. 
 
 In gardens Chicory is grown for the sake of its leaves, 
 whicli, when blanched, make an agreeable salading, appre- 
 ciated by those who esteem the slightly bitter taste which 
 tliey possess. The roots, however, which are parsnip-like in 
 shape, are also utilised, being roasted, then ground to 
 powder, and mixed with coffee. The French term the 
 blanched leaves the Barbe-de-Capucine, and the Belgians also 
 cultivate a variety called the Witloof, or Large Brussels 
 Chicory. 
 
 Forced bundles of this chicory are familiar during the 
 winter months to most town dwellers, and, guided by the 
 exorbitant prices often asked, one is led to the conclusion 
 tliat it.s cultivation entails considerable experience and ex- 
 pense; but just the opposite is really the case, for very few 
 cultivated plants give better or more sure returns for a small 
 outlay than the Chicory. Both the cultivation outdoors and 
 the subsequent forcing or blanching process are of the most 
 simple nature, as anj-one possessing a few yards of kitchen 
 garden can prove for themselves. 
 
 Culture. — Seeds may be sown during the early summer 
 months, but. perhaps the first week in Jime will be found 
 the most suitable, for if sown too early and prolonged 
 drought is experienced, many of the plants run to flower, and 
 
32 SALADS. 
 
 become worthless. Providing it lias been well cultivated, 
 iilmost any soil will grow good roots of chicory, although 
 land recently niantired has the tendency to produce very 
 forked roots, which makes the operation of potting or boxing 
 the roots far more difficult than is the case when but one 
 tup root is present. Therefore give such land over to other 
 crops needing manure, choosing a piece for this crop wliicli 
 was well manured the previous year. 
 
 After raking tlie surface down very fine draw shallow 
 drills an inch apart, and sow the seeds tliinly. (icrmination 
 will soon take place, and the necessary thinning out of over- 
 crowded seedlings must be commenced immediately it is pos- 
 sible to handle tliem, continuing the process until tiie roots 
 stand 8in. apart in the rows. 
 
 The subsequent outdoor treatment consists only of keeping 
 the bed free from weeds, and the most effectual way to en- 
 sure this will be by the weekly rise of the hoe. 
 
 Lifting and Storing: the Roots. — Chicory is quite 
 hardy, but at the approach of bad weather a portion at least 
 of the crop should be carefully lifted with a fork, and, aftei' 
 having the tops twisted off to within an- inch of the crown, 
 they shoidd be laid in dry soil in a cellar or shed, not making 
 too large a heap, or this Avill generate a certain amount of 
 heat and stmt the roots into premature growtli. 
 
 Forcing or Blanchingr Process—Immediately 
 after being taken from the garden a few pots or boxes should 
 ))e filled with selected roots, and the soil used for the pur- 
 pose need cause no anxiety. Any ordinary garden soil will 
 answer very well. Place the roots in a perfectly upright 
 position, and stand fairlj' close together, leaving only the 
 tops above the soil. After potting give a good watering, and 
 cover with other pots, boards, or boxes in such a manner 
 tljat absolute darkness is assured beneath. 
 
 Staii<l the pots in a warm house, or even a cuplioard, and 
 kee]! well supplied with water. New growth will soon com- 
 meiice, and a sharp lookout imist be kept for woodlice or 
 
CHIVES. 33 
 
 greenfly, which, if not checked, often sadly disfigure the 
 growth. As soon as the growth is Gin. or Sin. long it is 
 ready for use, and should be out with a small portion of 
 the root attached. The roots if allowed to remain will 
 produce another crop of leaves, but as they will be much 
 .smaller than the first crop, excepting where the stock of roots 
 is limited, tlie course is not recommend,ed, preference being 
 given to constant relays of new ones, placing those which 
 have done service on the garden fire. 
 
 Varieties. — The variety most generally cultivated is 
 the Witloof, which is a decided advancp on the old common 
 variety. In addition to its use as a salad plant, chicory 
 is often served as a vegetable requiring identical treatment 
 to that usually given to seakale. By many it is thought 
 quite equal to that popular winter dish. 
 
 Pests and Diseases. — There are practically none so 
 far as this crop is concerned. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CHIVES. 
 
 The Chives, or Rush Onion (Allium scliajnoprasum) is a rela- 
 tive of the onion and shallot, and a native of this country 
 as well as other parts of Europe. In England it is, however, 
 rarely found in a wild state, and then only in rocky pastures 
 in the Northern Counties and in Cornwall. Cliives grow in 
 dense tufts, have small bulbs and rush-like, hollow leaves. 
 The young leaves are much esteemed in spring as a substitute 
 for the onion for saladings. Being of perennial habit, it is 
 possible to " cut and come again " frequently. The leaves are 
 
 D 
 
34 SALADS. 
 
 much milder than those of the onion, and on .that account 
 may be eaten by those who dislike the stronger flavour of the 
 latter. 
 
 Tufts of Chives are to be found in most old cottage and 
 farmhouse gardens, especially in Scotland. They are very 
 easy to grow once a stock has been obtained. 
 
 Culture. — ^Any good ordinary soil will suffice. They are 
 often grown in tufts in the herb patch. Simply divide a 
 tuft into small portions in March, and plant these a foot 
 apart each way. Make a rule to divide and replant every 
 fourth year. 
 
 Wlien req\iired for use simply cut off the leaves close to 
 tlie crown, then others will form in due course. 
 
 c;hapter VIII. 
 CORN SALAD. 
 
 An annual salad vegetable, a native of this country and 
 other parts of Europe, and known as Com Salad, or Lamb's 
 Lettuce. The latter name appears to have been given to it 
 on account of its having in former times been used for feeding 
 lambs. , 
 
 Corn Salad (Valerianella olitaria) is grown more largely 
 on the Continent tlian in England, where it is often used 
 as a sul)stitute for lettuce in winter and spring. It is easily 
 grown. Says Philip Miller, in his Dictionary early in the 
 eighteenth century : " These plants will grow in almost any 
 soil or situation, and require no further care but to keep 'em 
 clear from weeds until they are fit for use. They should 
 always be cut while they ai'e young, for if they are grown 
 pretty large they will become strong and bitter." 
 
 In addition to the species just mentioned there is an 
 
CORN SALAD. 35 
 
 Italian species called Valerianella ericocarpa, which has paler 
 and longer leaves, but is not so hardy as the former. 
 
 Culture. — Seeds may be sown any time from March to 
 the begiiming of September, the early sowing furnishing 
 plants for summer use ; but, owing to the fact that most per- 
 sons would prefer the ordinary cos or cabbage varieties of 
 lettuce at this season, and these being of such quick growth, 
 it will not be advisable to make extensive sowings of Corn 
 Salad until the month of August. The plants resulting from 
 this sowing will furnish an abundance of useful leaves for 
 salads during the autumn and early spring. 
 
 A piece of ground which has been well manured and deeply 
 dug should be chosen for the bed, and the seed should be 
 sown in rows about 8in. apart, covering but very slightly 
 with fine soil. Thin out the j'oung plants to Gin. or Sin. 
 apart, and if the hoe is brought into action twice a week it 
 will not only ensure a clean bed, but also a more rapid 
 growth. 
 
 Picking may be commenced as soon as the leaves get of 
 usable size, and if this is done with care and the bed kept 
 free from weeds, the plant being perfectly hardy, new leaves 
 will continue to be produced for a long time ; in fact, with 
 reasonable pickings the supply will continue until lettuce are 
 again plentiful, when the bed may be destroyed. 
 
 Pests and Diseases. — None of any consequence. 
 
.iii SALADS. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 
 
 The Cucumber (Cucumis sativa) is supposed to be a native 
 of the East Indies. It must have been cultivated from time 
 immemorial, since it is mentioned more than once in the 
 Old Testament. In the time of Moses t?ae Israelites com- 
 plained, when being fed upon manna, of the absence of the 
 cucumber as an article of food. The prophet Isaiah, too, 
 mentions in his allusion to the desolation of Judah : " The 
 daughter of Zion is left as a cottage in the vineyard, as a 
 lodge in a garden of cucumbers." 
 
 It was the custom in those days to grow cucumbers in 
 fields, and to appoint a watcluiian to protect the fruits from 
 the ravages of jackals and foxes. Even in more modern 
 times a similar custom obtains in India. Cucumbers are 
 still grown in fields in Egypt, in company with water melons, 
 both vegetables forming the staple food of the lower classes. 
 
 The Cucumber was also extensively grown by the ancient 
 Greeks and Romans. The Emperor Tiberius, indeed, is said 
 to have had a daily supply for his table throughout the year. 
 
 Historians tell us that tlie Cucumber was fairly common 
 in this country in the time of King Edward III., but it was 
 not until the seventeentli century tliat its culture was taken 
 up seriously. Quaint old Parkinson, writing in 1629, has the 
 following reference to it. He says : " Some use to cast a 
 little salt on their f'owcumbers, and let them stand half an 
 houre or more in a dish, and then poure away the water that 
 comrneth from them by the salt, and after put vinegar, oyle, 
 etc., thereon, as everyone liketh; this is done to take away 
 the ovennucli waterishnesse and coldnesse of the Cowcum- 
 bers. In many countries they use to eate Cowcumbers as 
 wee doe Apples or Peares, paring and giving slices of them, 
 as we would to our friends of some daintie Apple or Peare. 
 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 
 
 37 
 
 The lawe or greeue Cowcuiiibers aie fittest foi' tlie lidtter 
 time of file yeare, and for liot stoniaches, and not to be used 
 in cold weatlier or cold stoniaches." 
 
 Frame Cucumeeh. 
 The variety is Telegrapb, a good sort for growing in frames or in glasshouses. 
 
 Another author, Philip Miller, a century later, devotes a 
 considerable space in his "Dictionary of Gardening" (1731) 
 to the culture of cucumbers. He mentions three sorts — the 
 
38 SALADS. 
 
 Common or Green Cucmuber, the White Cucumber, and the 
 Long Turkey Cucumber. The first, he says, was most gene- 
 rally grown in this countrj-. The white kind was commonly 
 grown in market gardens in Holland, and, indeed, is to-day. 
 The third sort was apparently grown more as a curiosity 
 than other^vi,se. In his time they appear to have been 
 gi-own on hotbeds and on ridges in the open air. 
 
 In the reign of George I. the gardener to Sir William 
 Blount is said to have presented to his Majesty on Chri.stmas 
 or New Year's Day a fine brace of cucumbers. At that 
 period it was considered no ordinai-y feat to produce cucum- 
 bers in December. 
 
 In the last century cucumber growing was taken up more 
 seriousl}', not only by private, but also market gardeners, 
 and the demand for the fruits has steadily increased. It 
 is now possible to obtain cucumbers all the year round, but 
 always in profusion and at a cheap rate during the spring 
 and summer months. The cucumber, however, will never 
 attain the same pojDularity as the tomato, because its fruit 
 is not palatable to persons witli weak digestive organs. This 
 has always been so. Long ago the famous Dr. Abeniethy 
 gave a quaint recipe for preparing the cucumbtr as food to 
 one of his patients. Said he : " P'irst, carefully peel ofi: the 
 rind, slice the cucumber, pepper it, add vinegar to it, and 
 — then throw it out of the window." 
 
 Few, however, who are able to digest the cucumber will 
 be disposed to follow the latter advice, and those who desire 
 to grow their own supply will find sound cultural guidance 
 in the following instructions furnished by our coadjutor, Mr. 
 Castle. 
 
 Cucumbers in Greenhouses — Seeds of cucum- 
 bers, for whatever purpose they may be required, should, 
 whenever possible, always be sown singly in small pots; for 
 when sown thickly, either in pots, boxes, or pans, no matter 
 how careful the cultivator may be, owing to the roots being 
 extremely brittle, there is always a danger of many getting 
 bi'oken ; consequently a check to the plant's growtli neces- 
 sarily follows transplantation. 
 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 39 
 
 " Ldug Toms " or small 60's are the pots most generally 
 used, and these should have one large crock placed over the 
 hole at tlie. bottom, a little dry moss or decayed leaves being 
 put over this to ensure drainage, afterwards three-parts filf- 
 nig it with moist but not over-wet soil composed of equal 
 parts^ loam, leaf-soil, and coarse sand. Press one plump 
 seed in the centre of each pot, and make the soil fairly firm. 
 If a hotbed is available plunge the pot up to its rim in this, 
 giving no Avater imtil germination has taken place. 
 
 FaiHng a hotbed, a good plan for raising the seedlings will 
 be found by getting a box about 6in. or 9in. deep, cutting 
 the bottom at both ends in such a manner as to allow the 
 box to rest on the hot-water pipes, so that the pipe goes 
 tlirough the centre of the box, leaving room on either side 
 of it for one row of pots to stand. Having got the box fixed 
 in position fill it to the brim with leaf-soil, cocoanut fibre, or 
 even sawdust. Into tliis plunge the pots up to the rim and 
 cover with a sheet of glass. Keep the soil, or whatever 
 plunging material is used, constantly moist by frequent 
 watering with warm water, remembering that as soon as this 
 becomes dry it ceases to be a conductor of the heat from the 
 pipes to the pots, and in a very short time the young plants 
 will make their appearance. 
 
 If plenty of light reaches the box do not be in too great 
 a hurry to remove the pots out of the plunging material, 
 but eacli ihorning tilt the glass covering the box for an hour 
 or so, which induces a sturdy growth. Watering must be 
 done only when absolutely necessary, and always with water 
 slightly above the temperature of the house. This is a most 
 important item to be observed, for if cold water is used the 
 young plants soon become sickljr, and in a very short time 
 droop and die. When it is no longer possible to allow the 
 box to rem.ain on the pipes, remove it to some warm spot 
 near the front of the house, keeping the glass over the box 
 until the plants have become quite strong. 
 
 When the pots are well filled with roots, and previous to 
 shifting the plants into others several sizes larger, with the 
 finger and thumb nip out the points of each plant at the 
 
40 SALADS. 
 
 fourth rough leuf. This will eusuix' sL'veral shoots being 
 iiviiihible for training instead of one, and is the method most 
 usually followed bj' small growers ; although, if plants are 
 plentiful and growing space limited, this pinching may be 
 dispensed with, and the plants put out more closely, to be 
 afterwards grown on the single-stem or cordon system, a 
 ciiursc which has nuich to recommend it where early fruits 
 lire desired. 
 
 The ]irojier time (o sow the seed must, of course, be 
 governed l)y circunistaiiucs, local conditions, and the tem- 
 perature of the structure where it is intended to grow them; 
 also the season when fruits are desired, are mattei's recjuiring 
 careful consideration. 
 
 In growing cucumbers in houses ■ devoted entirely to their 
 culture, licl'ore setting out tjie plants it is very impoi-tant 
 that tlie structure sliould be thoroughly cleansed of all insect 
 life, and to ensure thi.s every bit of glass and woodwork 
 shiudd l)e thiuoughly waslied with strong soai)y water; and, 
 owing to its disinfecting and insect-killing properties, carbolic 
 soft sua]) is, perhaps, the best of all soap to use for this pur- 
 pose. ITse a good, stiff brush, and go well into every corner 
 and cie\ice, for it is here the pests harbour for the winter 
 to lay their eggs, and, if not removed, will be a continual 
 source of worry to the cultivator throughout the summer. 
 All Ijrickwork should be whitened with hot limewash, and the 
 surface soil along the paths or imder tlie stages ronjoved to 
 llie depth of seveial inches. 
 
 There are several methods of culture adopted for growing 
 cucumbers \nidcr glass. The market grower usually plants 
 his (Hit into ordinary garden soil, relying on liberal surface 
 feeiling of the roots for the production of his crop. Others 
 liave specially-constructed cucumber houses, or pits, in which 
 pro\ isions are made for deep beds of fermenting material, 
 such as leaves and manure, being placed, which, together 
 with an adequate system of hot-water heating, is perhaps 
 the most profitable and satisfactory way of growing them ; 
 while tlie amateur with limited means has usually to content 
 liimself by getting what he can out of the ordinary, under- 
 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 41 
 
 lieatetl, and badly-constructed lean-to or span-roofed house 
 usually found in small gardens. 
 
 Keeping iu mind the diflference both in construction and 
 temperature of these houses, it will readily be seen that tlie 
 summer cultivation of cucumbers is not confined in a small 
 limit, but, provided ordinary discretion is observed, cucum- 
 bers may be cut even in our most sunless summers from 
 the most primitive constructions. Where it is desired 
 to make the best possible use of these small houses, the most 
 economical plan will be to cover tiic staging at least half-way 
 across with either tiles or slates, leaving little crevices t<j 
 allow the water to drain through freelv. 
 
 Cover these with any rougli material, or even strawy 
 manure, and near the front of the house place little hillocks 
 of soil about 2tt. apart, a bucketful being ample for the 
 plants to start in. After planting, place a stick to each, 
 tying the stem to it loosely to allow for rapid growth. Keep 
 tlie atmosphere of the house continually moist by svringing 
 every inch availa'ile at least three times each day when the 
 weather is briglit. 
 
 Ventilation must be provided as soon as tlie mercury rises 
 beyond 7.5 Fahr., although no great amount of harm will 
 follow should it run up to 90 deg., or even more, provided 
 plenty of moisture both at the roots and in the atmosphere 
 is available. Should a sudden outburst of bright sunshine 
 cause the temperature to become unduly hot do not open 
 the ventilators in the reckless way conmion to many, which 
 often results in more harm being done than would have hap- 
 pened had they remained closed. Commence by giving a 
 little both at the top and bottom at the same time, covering 
 the house with sacks or matting until the temperature is 
 more normal. 
 
 During very hot weather some form of shading must be 
 provided, and, although " Summer Cloud '' or weak lime- 
 wash are very effectual during a continued spell of tropical 
 weather, these permanent shadings have their disadvantages 
 durino- the dull periods so common in our summers of recent 
 years ; and for this reason we prefer such temporary shading 
 
42 SALADS. 
 
 as tiffan}-, fisli-notiiug, or liglit mats bt'iii;; used, these nut 
 needing to be put on excepting during the hottest part of the 
 day, being removed in time to ensure a growing temperature 
 being maintained throughout the niglit. For these, where 
 circumstances will allow of onh- a permanent shading being 
 used, we give the following as both cheap and effectual for 
 ordinary purposes. To half a gallon of water add a penny 
 packet of " size," half a pint of tui-pentine, and a lump of 
 whiting the size of a duck's egg; mix this well togetlier, and 
 apply while still hot by means of a snuill brush ; or, what is 
 equally satisfactory, sprayed through a rather fine-rosod 
 syringe. This is a most useful shading, being not too dense, 
 and withstands rain for many months. 
 
 Under favourable conditions few plants make such rajiid 
 growth as does a well-established cucumber plant, and in an 
 incredibly short time from the sowing of the seed young 
 fruits will soon be showing; but it will be found good policy 
 to remove these while still in the embryo stage, and concen- 
 trate all tlie energy of the plant in making a good amount 
 of vine — i.e., strong, healthy foliage; without this good 
 cucumbers will not be forthcoming. When the trellis or 
 sticks are fairly covered, select a few of the most promising- 
 fruits, pinching the points of each shoot at the leaf beyond 
 the fruit. At the same time remove all badly-formed or 
 placed fruits, endeavouring to lay in a siifficiency of young 
 wood to keep up an uninterrupted supply of cucuudjers, in- 
 stead of what often happens — a supply more than equal to 
 the demand for a few weeks, followed by a scarcity for an 
 even longer period. 
 
 Feeding: Cucumbers in Greenhouse. — Stimu- 
 lants, either in the form of liquids or concentrated manures, 
 sprinkled over the surface, will now become necessary. The 
 cucimiber is a voracious feeder, and very little in the way 
 of manurial aids come amiss to a plant in full bearing. But 
 it sliould be borne in mind that the whole secret of success 
 in manuring plants of all kinds lies in the discretion exer- 
 cised in applying it, commencing with weak doses, gradually 
 increasing the strength as the plants gain vigour. Any of 
 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 43 
 
 the well-known proprietary manures are good, and perfectly 
 safe to use in the hands of amateurs if care be taken not 
 to exceed the quantities recommended by the vendors. 
 
 Peruvian guano, used at the rate of a teaspoonful to a 
 gallon of water, is one of the finest stimulants for cucumbers ; 
 while fish guano, although, perhaps, not quite so quick in its 
 action as many others, may be relied on to build up a strong 
 healthy plant, with fruits of an exceptionally good, dark 
 colour. 
 
 Another powerful stimulant largely used by market 
 growers is found in night soil, which, after being well dried 
 by exposure to the air and afterwards mixed with dry soil 
 or wood ashes, makes a good fertiliser for sprinkling over 
 the roots once a week, at the rate of a good handful to each 
 square yard of surface. This may also be used for mixing 
 in the soil when top-dressing the plants, for which purpose 
 a half-gallon to each bushel of good turfy loam will be found 
 sufficient. 
 
 Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia are very quick 
 in their action, but should not be used too frequently, these 
 having a tendency to unduly force the growth of the plant 
 and ruin its constitution. 
 
 Culture in Pots under Glass — The pot system of 
 growing cucumbers should commend itself to those o^\ners of 
 small greenhouses Avho would like to cultivate the plants yet 
 lack the necessary room or convenience for making up a 
 hotbed inside. The rules laid down for raising young plants 
 should be here ob.served, and when one is obtained which has 
 already well filled a 4r|-in. or 5in. pot with roots, and furnished 
 with three good shoots, it will be found an ideal plant for 
 shifting into the pot intended to fruit it in. Choose pots of 
 good size; those termed " seakale pots," stood upside down, 
 make grand fruiting pots for cucumbers. The pot should be 
 well drained, and certainly not more than three-parts filled 
 to commence with. 
 
 An excellent fruiting compost for these may be had by 
 mixing three-parts good turfy loam — not sifted, but simply 
 
ii SALADS, 
 
 pulled to pieces — with a third part of only partly-deconjposed 
 horse oianure. Add to this some good, old soot and super- 
 phosphate of lime, at tlie rate of a 5in. pot to each two 
 bushels of soil. 
 
 After thoroughly mixing, proceed to fill the pot, and when 
 a little u\er half-full put the plant in the centre, pressing 
 the soil firmly about the roots; and be more than ordinarily 
 careful in watering until the new growth and appearance of 
 the plant testifies to its roots having found their way into 
 the new soil, when watering may be done as required, always 
 erring on the dry side. Other cultural details will be the 
 same as laid down for growing tlie general crop in glass 
 houses. 
 
 Winter Cucumbers under Glass It will be of 
 
 no use attempting to grow a profitable crop of winter cucum- 
 bers in a house the night temperature of which falls much 
 below 60 deg. ; for, even though the plants may set a few- 
 fruits, the growth of these will be so very slow as to render 
 tliem exceeilingly bitter to tlie taste, and therefore of no 
 value for salad purposes. Where a day temperature ranging 
 from 70 to 75 deg. without sun heat can be maintained, and 
 a minimum night temperature of 60 deg., it will be quite 
 safe to sow seeds early in September, and it is most important 
 that the plants resulting from this sowing should be grown 
 en as sturdily as possible, for owing to the shortening days 
 and absence of sun weak plants seldom give returns in any 
 sense commensurate with the trouble their culture entails. 
 
 Provided good plants are got into position liy the end of 
 October, other things of course being satisfactory, the grower 
 may depend on cutting fruits at intervals during the winter 
 imtil tliose raised early in the following year assume a fruit- 
 ful stage. 
 
 The important points to be observed in growing winter 
 cucumbers are these : 
 
 Use only good, turfy compost, kept open by the addition 
 of numerous lumps of charcoal and coarse sand. 
 
 In dull weather avoid damping the foliage overhead, ex- 
 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 45 
 
 cepting when there is a reasonable chance of its becoming 
 dry before nightfall, the necessary atmospheric moisture 
 being obtained by frequent syringing the pipes and the 
 plants' surroundings — a process known to gardeners as 
 damping down. 
 
 In top-dressing the plants never add soil direct from the 
 compost heap, but ensure it being thoroughly A\arm by 
 placing over the pipes or in the house where the plants are 
 growing for at least twenty-four hours before using. 
 
 Owing to the slow growth stopping the lateral shoots 
 should not be carried out to the same extent as is recom- 
 mended for those sown later, the object of the grower being 
 to ensure plenty of young bearing shootfs continually 
 coming on. 
 
 Constant fumigation — or, better still, vapourising — will be 
 necessary to keep the plants clean. If this be long delayed 
 greenfly and other pests are sure to appear. 
 
 Artificial manure sprinkled over the surface once a, week 
 after fruiting has commenced not only induces a quick root 
 action, but is more to be preferred tlian liquid made from 
 animal manures. 
 
 Culture in Frames on Hotbeds. — Where large 
 quantities of fruits are not required, and plenty of fermenting 
 material is easily and cheaply obtainable, this is perhaps the 
 most economical and satiffactory way of supplying the house- 
 hold; and, provided the materials to form the bed are got 
 together early in the year, there is no reason why fresh-cut 
 cucumbers may not be had from these beds from Easter on- 
 wards. 
 
 In preparing the bed care should be taken to thoroughly 
 mix the materials forming it by turning the whole heap 
 several times before finally placing the bed in position. Fresh 
 horse manure is usually regarded as the best material for 
 making a hotbed, but it should not be forgotten that, 
 although this generates a gi-eat heat very quickly, it is not 
 nearly so lasting as when the bed is made up with an equal 
 quantity of freshly-gathered leaves from either oak, elm, or 
 beech trees. Cow manure, although termed a cold manure, 
 
46 SALADS. 
 
 when laid in bulk for a few weeks and occasionally turned 
 over, becomes very hot, and produces a good, steady heat 
 eminently suited for the successful culture of frame cucumbers. 
 
 Of whatever material the heap is composed it is most im- 
 portant that it should be considerably larger than the frame 
 it is intended to grow the plants in, as this allows additional 
 lieating material to be placed around the outside from time 
 to time in order to maintain the requisite temperature when 
 the heat in that forming the bed has declined. For this 
 purpose at least 2^ft. on either side will be found none too 
 much. The-bed should also be made at least 2ft: .higher 
 than it is intended to remain, in order to allow for settling ; 
 and it should also be borne in mind that the greater the btilk 
 of manure employed the longer the heat in the bed will be 
 retained. 
 
 Having got the frame into position, place a good barniw- 
 load of soil under each light. This should be composed of 
 good turfy loam, three parts; horse manure, road-.sidings, 
 or other gritty substances, one part each. Superphosphate 
 of lime, if used at the rate of a quart to each bushel of soil, 
 is a grand addition to most soils for growing cucumbers. 
 Keep tlie frame close for several days ; then the great heat 
 which soon arises will not only kill all insects, but also the 
 eggs which are invariably to be found in the soil. 
 
 After the heat has gone out of the soil sufficiently to allow 
 the hand to be placed in without becoming vmcomfortably 
 wami, the seeds may either be sown in the centre of the 
 lieap, or, if available, good strong plants may be put out. 
 
 Although sometimes recommended, we fail to see the 
 advantage of growing more than one plant under an ordinary 
 3ft. light; for, provided the plant is stopped at the fourth 
 leaf, it will not be many days before good shoots are avail- 
 able for training to each corner of the frame. These in a 
 very short time will send out lateral shoots, and soon cover 
 the whole surface with fruit-bearing wood, thus dispensing 
 with much of the thinning out so often needed when two 
 plants are growing under the same light. 
 
 Keep the interior of the frame constantly moist by the 
 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 47 
 
 Uie of the syringe, and at each syringing leave a can of 
 water standing in the frame for future use; it will then 
 become tepid and quite safe to use, without the fear of a 
 check to the growth. In opening the frame be sure and do 
 it in such a way that cold winds do not blow directly on the 
 plants, and cover the frame early every evening with mats 
 or other material, which need not be removed if climatic 
 conditioas are not favourable during the daytime, although, 
 of course, this must not be carried too far or a weak growth 
 will result. 
 
 As growth proceeds top-dressing will become a weekly 
 necessity, using a similar compost to that in which the plants 
 are growing. Add a 5in. potful of bone-meal to each 
 barrow^ul of soil, and if the young shoots are kept well 
 pegged down to this they soon form new roots, and growth 
 becomes vei^- rapid. 
 
 As the plants gain strength give a little ventilation by 
 tilting the frame on the leeward side, and as the sun gains 
 more power a little light material, such as leaves or short 
 grass, should be strewn over the frame, to be again removed 
 about three o'clock ; this will provide all the shading neces- 
 saiy. 
 
 All fniits must be cut as soon as they are of the size pre- 
 ferred for table, for it should be remembeied that these tax 
 the energy of the plant unnecessarily, and prevent others 
 from swelling as fast as they would ; and, even though they 
 may not be required for inunediate use, they may be. kept 
 in good condition for many days by simply placing the stems 
 in a shallow pan of water and standing in the coolest place 
 possible. 
 
 Renovating: Exhausted , Plants. — After frame 
 cucumbers have been in bearing for five or six weeks the 
 plants often show signs of exhaustion by producing none 
 but small and badly-shaped fruits, but the grower need not 
 despair of again being able to cut first-class produce. If a 
 little extra kindness be shown to the plants at this stage 
 it is astonishing how soon they appreciate it, and the grower 
 is soon convinced the end is not yet. 
 
48 SALADS. 
 
 The wa\- to lejuvenate these partly-worn-out plants will 
 l>e to remove every old shoot th;it has ceased to be prdduc- 
 tive, retaining only such as are showing fruits, and as near 
 the base of tlie plant as possible. Top-dress with Gin. of 
 good, turfy soil, to which has been added svich excellent fer- 
 tilisers as Clay's, Thompson's, or canary guano; but, should 
 these be outside the grower's possibilities, tlien add a 5in. 
 potf\d of old sddt taken from a chimney wliere either wood 
 (ir coal has been burnt — not coke — to each bushel and a-half 
 <if soil. P'ollow this with a good watering with tepid water, 
 and keep the frame quite closed for several days. Plenty 
 of moisture will now be needed, and new growths will soon 
 lie apparent; and, provided a little patience is exercised, it 
 will not be many weeks before the frame is again well filled 
 with fruiting shoots. 
 
 Varieties for Frame or House Culture. — Of 
 
 late years tliere have been several notable additions to the 
 number of varieties suitable for these purposes, and doubtless 
 in the near future the list will be considerably augmented by 
 otiiers not yet in commerce. But the grower needing a 
 leliable variety, either for home >ise, market, or exhibition, 
 will not be wrong in making a selection from the following : 
 farter's Model, Lord Roberts, Everv'day, Webb's Perpetual,* 
 Delicacy, Sensation, Telegrapli,* Leckie's Perfection, The 
 Rochford,* Tender and True, Blair's Prolific,* Epicurean, 
 Cardiff Ca.stle,* Worthing Favourite,* and tlie old Duke of 
 I'Minburgh, fruits of which have been exhibited considerably 
 over a yard in length. The varieties most suitable for 
 frames are marked by an asterisk. 
 
 Pests. — Thrips, Red Spider, and Green Fly are the most 
 common enemies of the cucumber. Eehvorms also attack 
 the roots. Woodlice and Cockroaches, too, are partial to 
 the fruits, especially those grown in frames. 
 
 Thrips (Thrips hsemorrhoidalis) and their whitish larvae 
 freqtiently do .serious injury to the foliage of plants grown 
 under glass. They are minute and very active insects, and 
 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 49 
 
 do injury by piercing the surface of tlie leaves and sucking 
 out the sap. When very numerous they cause the leaves 
 to turn pale, and by disorganising the cellular tissue render 
 the foliage and shoots unhealthy. Occasional fumigation 
 with one of the nicotine preparations will prevent this pest 
 getting the upper hand. Spraj-ing the foliage, too, with 
 an insecticide will answer a similar object, but, as the thrips 
 may escape on to the soil or woodwork, spraying is not so 
 effectual as fumigation. 
 
 Red Spider (Tetran^-chus telarius) is even more harmful 
 than Thz-ips. This exceedingly minute pest lives in colonies 
 under a fine web 07: the under surface of the leaves, and 
 there sucks out tlie sap, causes the leaves to a.ssume a yellow 
 tint, slirivel, and die. This pest can only flourish in a dry 
 atmosphere ; consequently, if the plants are kept syringed 
 daily and tlie atmosjsliere moist, red spider will not give 
 much trouble. Spraying witli an insecticide will get rid 
 of it also, and so will repeated fumigation, as advised for 
 Thrips. 
 
 Green Fly (Bophalosiphon dianthi), also known as Aphides, 
 attack tlie shoots of in and outdoor cucumbers, sucking out 
 the sap and thus crippling growth. Fumigating indoor and 
 syringing outdoor crops with an insecticide will keep this 
 pest in subjection. 
 
 Eelworms (Tylenchus devastrix) are microscopic creatures 
 which find their way into the cells of the roots of cucumbers, 
 and so disorganise the cellular tissue that knobs or excres- 
 cences form thereon. The presence of eelworms in the 
 roots is indicated by tlie gradual drooping of the foliage and 
 in a bad attack by the sudden collapse of the plant. The 
 eelworms or their ova are eitlier conveyed by the manure or 
 by the agency of water. Once they get inside the roots 
 there is no remedy. When a plant droops pull it up, and 
 the roots will invariably be found covered with knots. Such 
 rof)ts and tlie plants should be speedily burnt, all the soil 
 cleared out, mixed with gas-lime, and allowed to remain in 
 a heap for a year before using. The bed should be lime- 
 washed and tlie house thoroughly cleansed. The new com- 
 
 E 
 
50 SALADS. 
 
 post should be sterilised six weeks before using b}- having 
 well mixed witli it a soil fumigant. 
 
 Diseases. — The principal diseases are the Cucumber 
 Leaf Blotcli Fungus and tlie Cucumber Mildew. Both are 
 troublesome occasionally. 
 
 The Cucumber Leaf Blotcli, or Spot (Cercospora meloni.s), 
 appears first in the form of pale green spots on the leaves. 
 These graduallj- spread, and unite, and assume a grej- to a 
 brown colour, and the infected leaves shrivel and diy up 
 in due course. The disease rapidly spreads, and it not 
 promptly dealt with may reappear in future seasons. Dis- 
 eased leaves or badly-infected plants should be promptly 
 burnt, the soil cleared and saturated with a solution of one 
 ounce of Jeyes' Fluid to each gallon of water, and the beds 
 and structure thoroughly cleansed. The following season 
 spray the foliage, as a preventive, with a solution of two 
 ounces of liver of sulphur to three gallons of water, with 
 the addition of two ounces of soft soap. 
 
 The Cucumber Mildew (Peronos])ora cubensis) appears on 
 the under sides of the leaves in the form of a white mould 
 (mildew). It spreads rapidly and soon destroys the foliage. 
 Single leaves attacked should be burnt. Spraying with Bor- 
 deaux Mixture is said to be a good preventive. 
 
 The Cucumber Collar Rot (Ilypochnus cucumeris) attacks 
 the stems at their junction with the soil, in the form of a 
 greyish fungus, causing tJiem to rot and the foliage to turn 
 yellow and wither. Mr. George Massee recommends kainit 
 to be mixed with the soil some time before use, or in the 
 case of a slight attack to water the soil with a sohition of 
 sulphate of potash, an ounce to a gallon of water. 
 
 Cucumber Canker (Mycosphaerella citrullina) also attacks 
 the stems in tlie sliape of white blotches at the nodes, or 
 joints. The disease spreads rapidly. Remedies are to burn 
 badly -diseased plants and to spray as a preventive with 
 dilute Bordeaux Mixture. 
 
 Cucumber Fruit Rot (Glceosporium lagenarium) attacks the 
 ends of the young fruits, causing them to deacy — become soft 
 
CUCUMBERS IN THE OPEN AIR. 51 
 
 and rotten, in fact. Attacks the leaves also. Diseased fruits 
 sliould be burnt, and tlie plants sprayed with dilute Bordeaux 
 Mixture. 
 
 Cucumber Rot (Scoleotricbum melopthei-um) is a fungoid 
 disea.se which causes blackish blotches to form on the leaves 
 and fruits. Infected fruit speedily rots. No known remedy. 
 Bum all diseased fruits. 
 
 Cucumber Black Scab (Cladosporium scabies) forms 
 sunken, blackish scabs covered with a velvety mould to form 
 on the fruits, causing growth to be stunted. Burn all in- 
 fected fruits. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 CUCUMBERS IN THE OPEN AIR. 
 
 The reader will find in the introductory paragraphs of the 
 preceding chapter a good deal of interesting information rt 
 the early history of the Cucumber. The type of cucumber 
 we are about to deal with is of a hardier constitution than 
 that grown in frames and under glass. There are three main 
 strains — the ordinarj' smooth Ridge, which bears fruit a 
 foot long or so ; the Japanese, which is of clinibing habit ) 
 and the Gherkin, a small, prickly-fruited kind. 
 
 Ridge and Gherkin cucumbers are extensively grown in 
 the districts of Sandy (Beds), St. Neots (Hunts), Bristol, etc. 
 At one time as many as SCO' to 600 tons per week were sent 
 to the London markets during the season. The Ridge 
 cucumber is peculiarly adapted for allotment gardens, as it 
 may be grown without the aid of a frame, and thus the culti- 
 vator may easily obtain a supply of fruit for his family 
 during the summer months. A young and well-grown Ridge 
 cucumber is just as tender and as wholesome as one grown 
 
 E 2 
 
52 SALADS. 
 
 under glass. The Russian peasants, indeed, make their 
 staple meal of black bread and Ridge or Gherkin cucumbers. 
 In France and (Germany, as Avell as in this country, the small 
 Gherkin is grown simply for pickling purposes. 
 
 Ridgre Cucumbers — A few decades ago Ridge cucum- 
 bers were almost the only variety which fell to the share of 
 the ordinary working man; but, owing probably to the low 
 price of glass, we find the culture of these is not so much in 
 evidence to-day. Yet the intervening years have witnessed 
 many iuipi-oved forms, almost equal in appearance to the 
 ordinary frame varieties, and which, when properly treated, 
 form a ^ eiy profitable crop. 
 
 Many growers prepare a piece of land by thorough digging 
 and heavy manuring during early spring, and in the month 
 of May plant the seeds in the ground where they are intended 
 to remain, following the same system as for vegetable mar- 
 rows. Although in a warm summer this plan answers fairly 
 weW, a better plan is 'to make up a little hotbed of leaves and 
 manure some time in April; and, after covering with a few 
 inches of soil, press the seeds into it about Sin. apart. Such 
 a bed is easily protected by means of any light 
 covering, and the seeds may be dejaended on to ger- 
 minate more quicklj- and satisfactorily under these condi- 
 tions than when sown in the open air. It is quite an easy 
 matter afterwards to transplant the seedlings into open 
 quarters when they are of sufficient size, and the increased 
 warmth renders the operation less risky than woidd have 
 been the case with plants raised entirely in the open. Seed- 
 lings raised in this way may be depended on to produce good- 
 sized fruit a foitnight in advance of others sown in the open 
 which, in some seasons, means a great deal to the grower. 
 
 Althougli termed Ridge cucumbers, it does not follow that 
 these require to be grown on ridges. As a matter of fact, 
 we have seen very heavy crops growing on the level, follow- 
 ing a crop of early potatoes ; but it is an undoubted advan- 
 tage if a few shovelfuls of decayed manure or leaves are 
 placed under each plant when planting. This not only gives 
 
CUCUMBERS IN THE OPEN AIR. 
 
 53 
 
 the plants a ynud start, Ijut retains the moisture in drv 
 Aveather. 
 
 A vanl between each jilant -will Ijc found ample space, and, 
 alter getting; well established in their position, verv little 
 troulile need be taken exceptinp; keepiny- weeds checked and 
 a good supply of water at the roots. Wlien fruits com- 
 mence to swell, a soaking of manure water nia\- be given 
 at each alternate watering, l)iit care should be taken tii keep 
 this from tlie leaves. "Where plenty of manure and leaves 
 are on hand a large bed of tliis, made up in some iidd cnrrier 
 and covered with a fi>nt of nrdinai'v sdil, should be utilised 
 
 KiMOE Cl'CU-MEERS. 
 A ,i,^f)Od h'ir.l.y sort ta (,^row out'lours. 
 
 for the earliest crop, a' small handlight or cluLlie [ilaced over 
 each plant being an advantage. 
 
 Varieties. — The following will be found to be good 
 ■\-arieties for outdoor culture : Barr's Excelsior Ridge, fruit 
 smooth and 14in. to 18in. long, a heavy cropper; Stockwood 
 LoniT Riflge, fruit l'2m. long, hardy; Sutton's King of the 
 Ridge, fruit smooth, straight, and iL'in. to 16in. long, veiy 
 productive; Sutton's Prolific, a very hai'dy and prolific 
 variety, suitable for small gardens. Of the Gherkin type, 
 the Short Prickly and Barr's Little Russian are the best 
 kinds to grow. 
 
5 A SALADS. 
 
 Pests and Diseases— See preceding chapter. 
 
 Japanese or Climbing: Cucumber. — This is dis- 
 tinct from the ordinary varieties, having only been intro- 
 duced into tliis country from Japan during recent years. It 
 i.s eminently well suited for outdoor cultivation, and has 
 already become very popular with cottagers and others, lack- 
 ing the luxury of a small greenhouse or garden frame. The 
 fiuits, although not large, make a very good substitute for 
 the ordinary frame varieties when used in a mixed salad, 
 but it nmst be confessed that when eaten alone they lack 
 the crisp quality and flavour which characterise our most 
 up-to-date indoor varieties. 
 
 The cultivation of these is extremely simple. We have 
 noted grand crops growing in the gardens of labourers in 
 some parts of the countrj'. No special soil, manure, or 
 knowledge is required ; neither need the fear of expensive 
 seed debar anyone from giving them a trial, as sufficient 
 seeds are usually obtainable for a modest sixpence to raise 
 plants enough to suiii)ly several households with cucumbers; 
 and, as seeds are now obtainable from most seedsmen, there 
 is no reason why everyone having a few square feet of garden 
 should not supply his own table with fresh-cut cucumbers. 
 
 Sow the seeds under cover in April in a pot or box. En- 
 deavour to obtain a nice loamy compost, which shoidd be 
 neither excessively dry nor wet, but in what gardeners usually 
 term a "happy medium" condition. Sucli a soil as this 
 will need no water until the seedlings are through the soil. 
 In sowing the seed do not bury it too deeply, but simply 
 press it into the soil to the depth of an inch. Cover the 
 receptacle containing the seed with a pane of glass, and, if 
 no better place offers itself than a window, choose that having 
 a southern or western aspect protecting the pot from the 
 direct rays of tho sun, either by placing it in a box or pieces 
 of cardboard or similar material placed on the side nearest 
 the window. This will prevent the soil becoming too dry 
 before germination takes place. 
 
 When the young plants appear give a little tepid water, 
 
CUCUMBERS IN THE OPEN-ArR. .W 
 
 but always err on the right side — i.e., tlie dn- side — until 
 each plant lias made a pair of rongh, or true, leaves; after 
 which it will be safe to water it every alternate day, or even 
 oftener, until the time arrives for planting out. Althougli 
 in ordinaiy smumers these may be relied on to produce a 
 fair crop if grown entirely in tlie open, advantage should 
 always be taken of tlie warmest sjiot the garden offers, .sliel- 
 tered, if possible, from direct cutting winds. 
 
 An 
 
 TlIK JaT.VNKSE Cni.MI.IM. CmJCMLLK. 
 
 (tuidiinr kiiiiU'tlLC slioot.^ nf which h;ivu"-to hu siiiiiiortcd liy pcM stickn 
 c,r ii triillis. 
 
 There are several methods of growing them open to the 
 cultivatiir. Some persons treat the plants in the same way 
 as runner beans, by planting in very shallow trenches, allow- 
 
56 SALADS. 
 
 ing (.■iicli plant to climb up :i stout stick; others grow them 
 up the back of sheds or wulls ; but the finest crop we ever 
 Miw was growiug up a woodeu trellis erected near an 8ft. 
 wall in tluch a way that the leaves never quite touched the 
 bricks. Here the plants had the additional advantage of 
 the extra warmth afforded by the wall, yet not being directly 
 in contact with it, they escaped the insect pests and excessive 
 dryness at the root often associate<l with tender plants grow- 
 ing in such ]iositions. Ordinary garden soil will do for plac- 
 ing the plants in, but it will be all the better for tiie-addition 
 of a little partly-decayed horse manure or leaves — sB) , a 
 third part of either, taking care to make the soil moderately 
 firm l)oth at the bottom and around the plant. 
 
 The tiist week in June will be plenty soon enough to 
 place the plants into fruiting positions. In planting do not 
 disturb the soil al)out the roots more than ])ossiblc, and never 
 plant in a dry condition. Secure each to a stick, and give 
 a gentle watering overhead, protecting from direct sunshine 
 and cold winds until the plants get established. 
 
 Water with care, or the foliage will soon become miliealthy 
 and tiie plant die; and on no account give stinnilants until 
 the fruits begin to swell, after which an occasional watering 
 with very weak soot-water will be of benefit to the crop. Cut 
 all fruits as soon as of a fair size, for the supply of fresh 
 ones will cease as soon as one comnjences to ripen seed. 
 Should these not be required for use, they make an excellent 
 pickle for use in winter, when fresh specimens are unobtain- 
 able. 
 
DANDELION. -57 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 DANDELION. 
 
 The Dancklion (Taraxacum vulgare) is a native of this 
 country and of other parts of Europe. It is of perennial 
 duration, and belongs to the daisy order (Compositse). Im- 
 proved forms of it have long been grown on the Continent 
 for yielding blanched leaves for winter saladings. 
 
 By many persons the Dandelion is looked upon more as 
 a nuisance than as a salad plant; and, judging from the 
 way every effort is made by most owners of small gardens 
 to exterminate plants of it, one would almost think its' sole 
 purpose on the earth was to provide recreation to the garden 
 bov in his too-oft-vain attempts to eradicate them from our 
 lawns or kitchen gardens. Although we freely admit its 
 presence in either of the places named is not desirable, the 
 fact must not be overlooked that under proper .cultivation the 
 plant is capable of producing one of the most ■wholesome 
 salads we have; and, were the greater number of amateur 
 gardeners better acquainted with the good qualities contained 
 in the leaves of this plant, we feel sure it would soon become 
 popular. Needless to say, a plant that may always be found 
 ^rowing and thriving luxuriantly on evei-y roadside and in 
 every field, no matter what the soil may be, calls for no 
 sj>ecial skill in order to get good roots under the more favour- 
 able conditions of a well-tended garden. Yet, even in the' 
 case of so common a plant, it will pay intending growers to 
 give a little attention to a few details. 
 
 Culture. — Choose only one of the improved varieties 
 offered in the catalogues of most of our leading seedsmen, 
 and sow the seed early in May in rows 1ft. apart; and when 
 the seedlings are through the soil thin out the plants to Sin. 
 or 9in. in the rows. Remove all flowers as fast as they 
 appear, and lift the roots in October, and, after twisting the 
 
•W SALADS. 
 
 lenvt's off ;i little above the crown of the plant, store in dry 
 earth or sand, introducing a few into heat as required. 
 
 Blanching^. — The method of blanching is very simple, 
 simply consisting of planting the roots a few inches apart in 
 either pots or boxes, using any soil for this purpose. When 
 filled give a thorough watering, and place in gentle heat in 
 absolute darkness, this being obtained by covering the pots 
 or boxes with others of similar size, room being allowed for 
 the leaves to develop. By filling several pots or boxes, an<l 
 introducing them into heat as required, a continual supply 
 will be available at the season when salads are scarce, 
 
 Varieties — The Improved Thick and the Improved 
 Broad-leaved are the two varieties generally grown in this 
 country. The Frencli gardeners cultivate another variety, 
 called tlie Moss-leaved, tjie leaves of which are finely cut, 
 like those of the moss-curled endive. 
 
 Pests and Diseases. — Practically none worthy of 
 special note. 
 
 CH.APTEI! XII. 
 
 ENDIVE. 
 
 K.vDivE (Cichorium endivia) is a native of India, and a near 
 relative of the Chicory, belonging to the same genus. It is 
 of annual or biennial duration, and has been grown in this 
 country since the reign of King Edward VI. Long before 
 that it was cultivated by the ancient Greeks and Romans. 
 Ovid, a Roman poet, sung its virtues in 43 B.C. : 
 
 " A garden salad was the third supply 
 Of Endive, Radishes, and Succory." 
 
 Gerarde, in his " Herbal " (sixteenth century), says : " It 
 
ENDIVE. 59 
 
 is used in sallades all the winter, as in London and other 
 plaoes is to be seeiie." Parkinson, another author, writing 
 a century later, remarks : " Endive being whited in the same 
 [i.e., buried in sand], or any other manner, is nmch used in 
 •winter as a sallate herbe with great delight; but the curld 
 endive is both farre the fairer and the tenderer for that 
 purpose.' 
 
 Endive, however, has never been so popular in this country 
 as on the Continent, although it is true, since English folk 
 have begun to appreciate the value of salads to a greater 
 degree than' formerly, it has been grown more extensively 
 than it used to be. 
 
 In France Endive is also cooked and eaten as a vegetable. 
 It makes a delicious dish so treated, and we commend the 
 idea to those who like to trj- vegetables out of the ordinary 
 way. 
 
 Varieties. — There are two distinct kinds of endive — 
 the Oval or Round-leaved Batavian, also the more popular 
 Moss-curled, which is a decidedly ornamental plant, the 
 leaves being beautifully curled, and, as the name implies, is 
 suggestive of a compact tuft of some of our finest mosses. 
 Neither variety is grown by the owners of small gardens 
 nearly so much as it merits, for a few leaves form a welcome 
 addition to the mixed salad bowl, not only on account of the 
 flavour it imparts, but the curled variety gives it a more 
 pleasing appearance. 
 
 Culture. — The culture of Endive is very simple, and 
 seed of either variety easily and cheaply obtainable. Any 
 soil which will grow good lettuce may be depended upon to 
 produce satisfactory plants of this, although, in common 
 with most other cultivated plants, good cultivation is invari- 
 ably followed by correspondingly good results. 
 
 For the summer supply a deeply-dug and well-manured 
 piece of ground should always be selected, although good 
 plants may be grown without the addition of manure to the 
 soil; but where this is provided the roots can ramify freely 
 
6fi SALADS. 
 
 into it, tlius enabling the plants to stand lon^^r in guod ciin- 
 dition withont running to seed — a very frecjuent occnneuce 
 in hot summers when grown on badl\--prepared ground. 
 
 For the earliest crop seeds should be sown towards the end 
 of April. Sow in slialhjw drills, and cover but sliglitly with 
 fine soil. The seedlings will soon appear, and when large 
 enough to handle they siiould be planted out 1ft. apart each 
 way ; and if plants are left in tiie .seed rows at that distance, 
 when taking up those required for transplanting they will 
 be found fit for use a fortnight or more in advance of tliosc 
 planted out. Uo not allow the jjlants to want for water, 
 and encourage quick growth by constantly stin-ing tiie soil 
 between tjie ]ilants,' and when once the roots have got fairly 
 hold of the soil a weekly dusting of artificial manures will 
 be an advantage. 
 
 Blanching: Outdoor Crops — When fully grciwn the 
 leaves are blanched before they are fit for use; and one of the 
 simplest, and at tlie same time iiiost effect\ial, ways f>f doing 
 this is to place a small flower-pot over tlie heart of each 
 plant, stopping the hole at the bottom with moss to exclude 
 light. Sliould a plentiful supply of pots not be present an 
 effectual way will be found by covering a portion of the bed 
 with straw, hay, or otlier light material; or, failing either of 
 these, simply laying a tile or piece of board over each plant 
 in such a way as to exclude the light, and in a very short 
 time the plants will be ready for use. 
 
 Successional sowings slioiild be made during the summer 
 months up till Augiist ; from this latter sowing plants will 
 be available lor winter use. 
 
 Culture in Frames — Seed should be sown early in 
 August, and, after transplanting as advised, every encour- 
 agement ought to be given the plants to make good growth 
 until the middle of October, at which time a frame should 
 be prepared for their recejition. An ordinary cold or un- 
 heated frame will answer well for this purpose, and be filled 
 to within a foot of the glass with fairly rich soil. Into this 
 
ENDIVE. 61 
 
 transfer the plants with as little check as possible, and to 
 ensure this a good watering should be given the day pre- 
 vious, to transplanting, which will enable tlie cultivator, 
 with the aid of a trowel, to lift each root witli a good 
 ball of soil attached. ^Mien in position the plants 
 should stand quite clear of each other, which allows for 
 continuous growth during the following fortnight or three 
 weeks. Give abundant ventilation by removing the lights 
 entirely as long as the weather remains open ; and very little 
 water ■nail be needed from November onwards, dampness 
 being the chief enemy the grower has to contend with. 
 
 Storing: Endive in Winter — Even where no garden 
 frame is available a good shed, or even a cellar, will keep 
 endive quite well if frost can be kept out and light given 
 while the plant is making its growth. Wlien required to be 
 grown under these conditions the plants should be lifted 
 some time during Octobier, choosinj; a fine day when the 
 leaves are quite dry. Lift each root with as much soil as 
 possible, and place in shallow boxes filled with nice sandy 
 soil. When filled give a goml watering, keeping it off the 
 leaves, and stand where protection can be given during severe 
 weather. 
 
 Introduce them into the slied or cellar, a box at a time, 
 and keep in total darkness, tlie covering of hay or straw 
 used for this serving the double purpose nf protection against 
 cold. 
 
 Pests. — Endive is specially liable to l>e attacked by soil 
 grubs, as the laiviB of the Daddy-long-legs Fly, Heart and 
 Dart Motli, and tlie Yellow Uiider'-wing Motli. Slugs and 
 snails are also partial to the leaves, and Aphides may occa- 
 sionally hifest the foliage. 
 
 The soil griilis refeired to can only lie dealt with by dress- 
 in"- the plot V>efore planting with a soil fumigant. Where 
 young plants are found to suddenly die, examine tlie soil in 
 the vicinity of the roots, and, as a rule, tlie grubs will be 
 discovered. It is seldom that established plants are attacked. 
 
62 SALADS. 
 
 Slugs and snails may be kept at bay by occasional dustings 
 of soot or lime. Either should be applied in the evening to 
 be effectual. The frequent use of the hoe between the plants 
 will (1(1 much to harass and drive these pests away. 
 
 Aphides may be banished by syringing the plants with an 
 insecticide or soapy water. 
 
 Diseases. — Happily, there are none that do any serious 
 injury to the endive crop. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 LETTUCE. 
 
 I-N Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) we have one of the most popular 
 of saladings. It is supposed to be a native of India and 
 Central Asia. According to Herodotus it was served to the 
 tables of the Persian kings 500 b.c. The Romans, too, were 
 partial to lettuce. 
 
 It would appear to have been grown in this country since 
 the early part of the sixteenth century. Mention is made 
 in the Pnvy Purse expenses of King Henry VIII. of the gar- 
 dener at York Place receiving a reward for taking lettuce 
 and cherries to Hampton Court in 1530. 
 
 Gerai'de mentions eight sorts as having been grown in this 
 countr}- in 1597. He also says: "Lettuce maketh a pleasant 
 sallade, being eaten rawe with vinegar, oil, and a little salt; 
 but if it be boiled it is sooner digested, and nourisheth more. 
 It is served in these days and in these coimtries at the be- 
 ojnniiig of supper, and eaten first, before any other meat; 
 but, notwithstanding, it may now and then be eaten at both 
 those times to the health of the bodie ; for, being taken 
 before meate, it doth many times stii' up appetite; and eaten 
 
LETTUCE. 63 
 
 after supper, it keepeth away drunkenness which cometh by 
 the wine." 
 
 Old Parkinson, too, has a good deal to say about lettuce 
 in his "Paradisi in Sole" (1629). Says he: "There are so 
 many sorts, and so great diversitie of Lettice, that I doubt I 
 shall scarce be believed of a great many. For I doe reckon 
 up to you eleven or twelve differing sorts; some of little use, 
 others of more, becoming more common and vulgar; and 
 some that are of excellent use and service, which are more 
 rare." The sort he describes as the best was the Roman Red 
 I.^'ttuce, whicli, as it had to be bound and blanched, was, we 
 opine, a Cos Lettuce. He says a plant, after being divested 
 of its outer leaves, weighed seYsnteen ounces. 
 
 Cabbage Lettuce was apparently a well-known type in his 
 day. "All sorts of Lettice," says he, "are spent in sallets, 
 with oyle and vinegar, or as everyone please, for the most 
 part, while they are fresh and greene, or whited [blanched] 
 to cause them to eate the more delicate and tender." 
 
 Pliilip Miller early in the eigliteenth century enumerates 
 fourteen sorts of lettuce as worth growing. Among these 
 are noted the Cabbage Lettuce and the Black and White Cos 
 Lettuce. He reconmiends successional sowings to be made 
 in April, May, and June, and again in August for a winter 
 crop. 
 
 The type known as the Cos appears to have been intro- 
 duced from the island of Cos, lience the prefix of this name 
 to the upright-growing sorts. 
 
 A century ago the Hammersmith Hardy Green Cabbage 
 and the Brown or Bath Cos lettuces, which are still grown 
 to-day, were cultivated largely in market gardens around 
 London. 
 
 Lettuce is a salading that everyone with a small patch of 
 giound may easily cultivate during spring and summer. 
 Winter supplies have to be grown in frames or on hotbeds to 
 ensure succulent, crisp hearts. Now that the so-called 
 " French gardening " has become so popular in tliis country 
 we shall doubtless see more lettuce on sale in our markets 
 in winter and spring, as this crop may easily be grown on 
 
64 SALADS, 
 
 htitljieds or in forcing houses. We know one hirgf market 
 gidwer wlio makes a practice of growing an under crop of 
 lettuce in his cucnmlier and grape houses, and finds the croj) 
 a paying one. Now for cultural details. 
 
 Culture for Early Supplies — Seeds should he sown 
 in a warm greenhouse earh- in the month of January, u 
 large pot or shallow box being suitable for raising the seed- 
 ling plants in, and a light, sandy compost should always be 
 used. Sow very thinly for the double purpose of obviating 
 too early transplanting; also owing to the fact that an over- 
 crowded seed pan is invariably followed by a large percentage 
 (if the plants damping ofl just when the grower begins to 
 congratulate himself on having enough and to spare ; only to 
 find a few days later what ])romised to be a glut proves to 
 be a famine. 
 
 After sowing, cover the seed with a little finely-sifted soil, 
 and give a thiir(i\igh watering with tepid water through n 
 tine-rosed can, afterwards placing a sheet of brown paper 
 over the pan to exclude light and ensure a rapid and even 
 germination, removing the pajier on the first appearance of 
 the young plants. Transplant into shallow boxes as soon as 
 the seedlings have made a couple of true leaves; 
 an_y old light soil — such as worn - out cucumber, 
 melon, or even nu\rrow beds — will do for filling the 
 boxes, scattering a little silver sand over the smface 
 in order to give the plants a start. Allow each plant 
 a couple of inches space from its neighbour, and stand tlie 
 box in a warm position, covering the surface with a sheet of 
 ]iaper should bright sun follow ilirectly after jilanting. If 
 the plants are kejit well watered, and the suiface constantly 
 pricked over with a pointed stick, good-sizc<l plants will 1,-e 
 made by the beginning of March, after which they should 
 lie stood in a sheltered sjiot outdoors, and put into permanent 
 (piarters about the end of the month. 
 
 Lettuce appreciate a good, rich soil and plenty of mois- 
 ture; tiierefore, whenever possible, this should lie given them, 
 esjieciallv in tiie case of this early crop, for they come to 
 
m SALADS. 
 
 maturity and are off the ground in May and June, which 
 allows ample time for anotlier crop of a different nature being 
 taken from the same plot during the sunnner. 
 
 Varieties, for Early Use — ^Tlie question of variety 
 to a. very large extent depends on the cultivator's taste in 
 tlie matter; but, owing to their more rapid growth, the cab- 
 bage varieties are usually preferred, these having an addi- 
 tional advantage over the taller-growing, or Cos, section, 
 which should commend them to owners of small gardens, 
 from the fact that quite good-sized heads may be grown in 
 boxes without transplanting, simply allowing 4in. to 6in. 
 between the plants, and giving a little stimulant when the 
 hearts commence to form. 
 
 Reliable Cabbage varieties are: Favourite, Early Paris 
 Market', Heartwell, Commodore Nutt, Holborn Standard, All 
 the Year Round, or Magnet. 
 
 Among the Cos varieties Little Gem, Nonsuch, and Dwarf 
 Perfection are a good trio, being of quick growth, sweet, 
 and crisp, and of dwarf habit. Taller varieties, suitable for 
 early sowing, are Superb White, Sugar Loaf, and Harbinger. 
 
 Lettuce for Summer Use — Seeds for the summer 
 or ordinary croji may be sown outside any time after the 
 middle of March, continuing at intervals until June. They 
 may be sown either where they are intended to remain until 
 fit for use, or on prepared beds to be afterwards transplanted. 
 Either method will answer, but, owing to the plants grown 
 on the first-named method receiving no check, they come 
 to maturity sooner than others raised in beds, and conse- 
 quently suffer a check through transplanting. 
 
 After sowing the seeds protection of some kind must be 
 given, or birds will carry the majority of them away before 
 the grower is aware of the fact; and, although the old plan 
 of black thread answers fairly well, nothing is so effectual 
 as wire netting. 
 
 For Slimmer Lettuce do not minimise the importance of a 
 well-prepared soil, for without this growth will be slow and 
 
LETTUCE. 67 
 
 the quality deteriorate. Abundance of water must be sup- 
 plied from the time the seed germinates until the plants are 
 ready for table, or much disappointment will be caused 
 through a large percentage running to seed. 
 
 Varieties Suitable for Summer Use. — Cos: 
 Barr's Covent Garden Summer White, Sutton's Superb White, 
 Webb's Ideal, Paris Green, and Paris White. Cabbage: 
 Tom Thumb, All the Year Round, Webb's Summerbill, Sut- 
 ton's Standwell, Sutton's Heartwell, and Daniel's Continuity. 
 For Exhibition — Among the cos varieties the following grow 
 to great size: Jumbo, Leviathan, Exhibition, Sutton's Mam- 
 moth, Peerless, and Giant White. Large cabbage varieties 
 are: Wonderful, Drumhead, Neapolitan, Ideal, White Cha- 
 vigny, and Sutton's Giant. 
 
 Winter Lettuce, Outside — Seeds for the supply of 
 lettuce during the winter months should be sown during the 
 month of August. Make two sowings, one at the beginning 
 and another at the end of the month. A nice seed-bed should 
 be prepared, and when large enough the plants must be put 
 into permanent winter quarters. As all varieties are not 
 suificiently hardy to stand the most severe weather, it will 
 not be wise to plant these in the most exposed part of the 
 garden, for should an unusual spell of frost follow a period 
 of mild weather the chances are that manj' will perish. There- 
 fore choose the warmest spot the garden oflEers — the foot of 
 a wall facing south is, perhaps, the best place, for, in addi- 
 tion to the extra warmth the wall affords, a few boards laid 
 along the bottom during severe frosts will be at once a 
 simple and easy form of protection. Should no extra favour- 
 able situation be present the cultivator realising the import- 
 ance of some form of protection should ahvays have on hand 
 plenty of old mats, sacks, bracken, or straw, in order that 
 they may be pressed int/O use should occasion require. 
 
 These lettuce should have a good root run, and be planted 
 a trifle closer together than usual. This allows each alter- 
 nate one to be pulled early in the season, leaving the remain- 
 der at proper distance for development. 
 
 p 2 
 
(iS SALADS, 
 
 Varieties for Winter Use. — Lettuce vary in con- 
 stitution ; therefore it will not be wise to plant any one 
 variety until it has proved itself reliable. The cos varieties 
 D:iost widely grown for winter use are : Hicks' Hardy White, 
 the old Bath Cos, Winter White, and Champion Brown; 
 while among the cabbage section All the Year Round, Ham- 
 mersmith, Stanstead Park, White Dutch, and McHattie's 
 Giant are usually reliable. On light, sandy soils we have 
 seen splendid examples of Favourite and Holborn Standard 
 survive the winter safely. A variety introduced by Messrs. 
 Sutton and Sons, of Reading, which they term Winter 
 Gathering, or non-hearting lettuce, has the reputation of 
 being thoroughly hardy; and, owing to the plant's quick 
 growth, it is possible by making several sowings in the 
 autumn to ensure a constant supply of leaves during the 
 winter months. 
 
 Winter Supply from Frames — Where cold or 
 unheated frames are available these afford the most certain 
 way of ensuring an unbroken supply of lettuce throughout 
 the winter season. If a frame which has done duty for 
 growing cucumbers or melons is empty it will, without any 
 further preparation than levelling the surface, afford a 
 splendid bed for the winter lettuce. 
 
 The most promising of those sown during August should 
 be lifted and planted in these early in October, planting in 
 such a manner that the frame is well filled without the plants 
 absolutely touching each other. After watering, allow the 
 leaves to become dry by leaving the light off, returning it 
 towards evening; but dampness being the chief enemy to 
 winter lettuce, air must be admitted whenever possible.* 
 
 Young: Lettuce for Salads — Another method of 
 growing lettuce for salads, and which is not practised as 
 often as it should be, is that of sowing the seeds in shallow 
 boxes of light soil, in a temperature of 65 to 75 deg., in 
 autumn, winter, and spring, and when the seedlings are 2in. 
 high cutting them close to the soil, as you would mustard 
 
LETTUCE. 69 
 
 and cress. These crisp, tender seedlings make a most deli- 
 cious addition to a mixed salad of chicory, dandelion, etc. 
 Any kind of cabbage lettuce will do. To maintain a suc- 
 cessional supply make sowings once a fortnight. 
 
 Lettuce may be sown in drills in the open from March 
 onwards to afford a continuous supply of young seedlings for 
 a similar purpose. When ordinary crops are sown in the 
 open the thinnings, if removed early, may also be utilised 
 for mixed salads. 
 
 PestSi — Lettuce has a few general enemies, like soil 
 ■ grubs, which have been referred to in the chapter on 
 Endive, and a special one known as the Root Aphis. The 
 Root Aphis (Pemphigus lactucarius) are small insects covered 
 with fine cottony-down, which congregate in clusters on the 
 base of the stems and the roots, sucking out the sap, and 
 causing the plants to droop and become sickly. Infested 
 plants should be promptly burnt, and a solution of soft soap 
 and paraffin oil poured into the holes to destroy any pests 
 left behind. Afterwards dress the plot with a soil fumigant. 
 
 Wireworms, the larvae of various Click Beetles (Elater 
 species), do sometimes attack the roots of Lettuce; and here, 
 as in the case of other soil grubs, the only remedy is to dress 
 tlie soil before planting with a soil fumigant. 
 
 Diseases. — The Lettuce Mildew (Bremia lactucse) is a 
 minute fungus which covers the surface of the leaves with 
 a fine, white mould, causing them to turn yellow and die. 
 The only remedy is to pull up and burn the infected plants. 
 
'" SALADS. 
 
 CHAl'TKi; XIV. 
 
 MUSTARD AND CRESS. 
 
 liiiTil MIC \M'll-kiin\Mi s.ilaililig.s. AVIiitc Mu,s(;i)-il (JJi'iissica 
 ;illi;i) is llie kiiiil iisiuiUy grown fur snlailiiiii's. It is a niitivc 
 of I'JiroiK-', ;iiiil 111' iiiiiiiial diiiatinn. Tlie secils arc round 
 and wliite. Tliu Black oi' Brown Mnstai'd (Brassica nigra) 
 
 McsTAKD Grown i\ a Pax. 
 
 M;lT ;l^cj bf STOwii in .sbMllow bo.xi-s with r-.|tia] sut-L'C.'J.q. 
 
 and the liapc (Bras.,ica napajj are also often gi-.iwn a.s salad- 
 ings. but the White A[ust;ird i.s the best of the three, being 
 niddcr in llavour. The lunstard of eoimnerce is preiiared 
 fioni tlic seeds of tlir Bl.ack .itid .s..nicliines the White Mns- 
 tanl. 
 
MUSTARD AND CRESS. 
 
 71 
 
 Garden Ciess (Lepidium sativimi) is a native of Persia, 
 and was first introduced in 1548. It lias been grown here 
 for three centuries, at least. This and the Mustard are 
 usually grown at the same time. Market gardeners culti- 
 vate both for sale in winter and spring under the name of 
 '■ Hot and Cold," and sell the produce in chip punnets. 
 
 ]5oth are of very easy culture, and may be grown in heated 
 structures in winter and sjiring, or in frames or outdoors in 
 sunnner. Kvcn town dwellers who liave no garden mav "-low 
 
 Gaedkn Cress Grown in a Pax. 
 
 This saladin^^ niny, of course, be gi'owu equally well in shallow bo.ves. 
 
 it in boxes or pans, in roon}s or on window-sills. The seeds 
 fif Mu.stard germinate in a few days, and the Cress in a week 
 or so; hence it is usual to make one sowing of Cress a week 
 in advance of the Mustard. 
 
 Culture. — In order to keep up a supply throughout the 
 year, the best plan will be to sow in boxes inside the green- 
 house, it lieing more easy to time the produce under these 
 
72 SALADS. 
 
 conditions than when outside sowings are relied upon. 
 Shallow boxes will be found best for sowing the seed, these 
 to be nearly filled with old manure or other rough material. 
 Upon this place an inch of any finely-sifted soil, and, after 
 pressing firmly and quite level with a board, scatter the seed 
 thickly over the surface; again press firmly into the soil, and 
 give a good watering. Stand the boxes on top of each other 
 in a warm house (temperature 55 to 65 deg.) for two or three 
 days, or cover each with a piece of board or slate, but avoid 
 covering with soil, or much of this will be carried up as the 
 growth proceeds, and will be very gritty when required for 
 use. 
 
 Cut the plants when a couple of inches high, for to be 
 fully appreciated it must be eaten in a young state. As 
 Cress is of slightly slower growth, it should always be sown 
 a week previous to the Mustard. 
 
 Outdoor sowings may be made from April to September, 
 either in drills or beds, but it will always be an advantage 
 to cover the seeds with mats in preference to soil. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE NASTURTIUM. 
 
 Thb Garden Nastiirtium, or Indian Cress (Tropseolum minor), 
 is probably best known as a garden flower, and it will doubt- 
 less be a surprise to many to know that it also possesses 
 some merit as a salading. Those who have had the oppor- 
 tunity of tasting its young leaves and shoots sandwiched 
 between bread and butter or in a mixed salad will, however, 
 readily admit that the Dwarf — also, indeed, the Tall — Nas- 
 turtium possesses considerable virtue as a salading. In fact, 
 the flowers prove equally as agreeable to the palate as the 
 leaveSj while the seed-pods also make an excellent pickle 
 
ONIONS. 73 
 
 and substitute for capers. On account of these virtues the 
 Nasturtium is grown in France as a salad plant, and there 
 is no reason why it should not be grown here for the same 
 purpose. 
 
 The Dwarf Nasturtium was introduced into Europe by 
 the Spaniards about 1596 from Peru, and the Tall kind a 
 ctjntury later. In England it has been grown chiefly as a 
 flowering plant, its brilliant flowers always making an attrac- 
 tive display in summer. 
 
 Culture. — Sow the seeds outdoors, in any sunny spot 
 and not too rich soil, in rows 18in. to 2ft. apart, in March 
 and April. Or odd groups may be grown on the side borders 
 of the vegetable garden or as an edging to the paths. Thin 
 the plants out to a foot apart. In about two months after 
 sowing the young leaves and flowers may be gathered and 
 used in a mixed salad. When the seed-pods are nearly full 
 grown gather and pickle them in vinegar for future use. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 ONIONS. 
 
 What are known as " Spring Onions " find favour with many 
 folk, either for eating alone or in a mixed salad, in spring 
 and early summer. Many acres of the White Lisbon variety 
 are grown in market gardens to meet the large demand for 
 this wholesome, although perhaps somewhat pungent, salad- 
 ing in our large cities and towns. 
 
 The Onion (Allium cepa) is a native of Asia, and has been 
 cultivated from time immemorial. It is mentioned in the 
 Old Testament as a vegetable for which the Israelites hun- 
 gered in the wilderness. According to Herodotus, there was 
 an inscription on the Great Pyramid bearing testimony to 
 
"i-i SALADS. 
 
 the fact that 1,600 talents had been paid for onions and 
 garlic. Theophrastus wrote about the Onion 200 B.C. Even 
 to-day the Onion is a favourite vegetable with the Egyptians, 
 tlie warm climate producing bulbs of more tender and milder 
 flavour than those grown in colder climates. In Spain, 
 Portugal, and Italy the Onion is also held in high esteem. 
 
 Old Parkinson (1629) says: " Onions are used many wayes, 
 as sliced aud put into pottage, or boj-led and peeled and 
 layde in dishes as sallets at supper; or sliced and put into 
 water, for a sawce for mutton or oysters; or into meate 
 roasted, being stufferl with Parsly, but so many wayes that 
 I cannot recount thoni, everyone pleasing themselves, accord- 
 ing to their order, manner, or delight." He further re- 
 marks that : " The strong smell of onions is quite taken away 
 from offending the head or eyes by the eating of Pai*sly 
 leaves after them." 
 
 Onions were largely grown in the seventeenth and eight- 
 eenth centuries. Bradley, writing in 1718, says they were 
 grown more than any other vegetable. Early in the last 
 centur}'- the chief kinds grown were the Deptford, Reading, 
 Silver-skinned, White Lisbon, Tripoli, James's Long-keeping, 
 Globe, Strasburg, and Blood-red varieties, which, together 
 with improved forms, are cultivated to-day. 
 
 In this volume, of course, we shall only confine our 
 remarks to those grown purely for salad purposes. 
 
 Culture Outdoors. — Onions are one of the most use- 
 ful plants grown, and during the spring and early summer 
 months it is very rare to find a person of either sex to whom 
 a few young plants, freshly drawn from the bed, are un- 
 acceptable. To produce them at this season calls for no 
 special treatment beyond sowing the seed rather thickly on 
 a piece of well-prepared ground early in March, thinning 
 cut the 3"oung plants as soon as they are large enough for 
 the salad-bowl, and continuing to draw from the bed until 
 the roots are the thickness of a pencil, after which time they 
 will have become too strong either for using alone or in 
 the mixed salad, to suit the tastes of most people. There- 
 
ONIONS. 75 
 
 fore, where young roots are appreciated, it -will be iiecessar\- 
 to make siiccessional sowings at intervals of tliree or four 
 «eeks froiii Marcli onwards. 
 
 A Bl'.ndle of SrEiN-(i Omoxs. 
 
 The variety is W^liite Lisbon, und one lar.treiy yrowji for market. 
 
 E.xcepting when it is intended to allow a portion to remain 
 to produce large bulbs it will not 1je wise to sow a great 
 cpiantit}- 1)1 seed at a. time, a row Gft. long being capable 
 
76 SALADS. 
 
 of producing enough Scallions — as these young plants are 
 termed — to supply a family for several weeks. 
 
 A sowing of the White Lisbon variety should be made 
 in August in drills 9in. asunder. These will afford a supply 
 of young onions throughout the spring months. In March 
 apply one ounce of nitrate of soda per square yard, and hoe 
 it in to give the growth a good fillip. 
 
 Culture under Glass — Boxes, pans, or pots may be 
 used for raising the plants in, and it is important that the 
 soil used should be rich, and kept open by the free use of 
 sand or burnt earth, or other gritty substance. 
 
 Sow fairly thickly on an even surface, pressing the seed 
 firmly into the soil, and cover with half an inch or so of 
 soil. After watering, cover the box with a sheet of glass 
 or brown paper, and place in a temperature of 55 to 65 deg. 
 until the seeds have germinated. After this a shelf or other 
 position near the glass will be the best place for them. 
 Watering will need to be carefully done, or many of the 
 plants will be lost through decay caused by the sodden con- 
 dition of the soil. 
 
 Although good seed of any variety may be relied upon to 
 produce salading plants, the small silver-skinned variety, 
 being of rapid growth and mild flavour, is the one chiefly 
 grown. 
 
 Picklins Onions. — The culture of onions for pickling 
 is a very simple business. It is not so essential in their 
 case to have a specially rich soil, as quantity rather than 
 size is the main object. Any fairly good soil, therefore, will 
 suffice to grow them. The soil, of course, must be well tilled 
 and made as fine as possible, and tlie site should be a sunny 
 one. The seeds may be sown broadcast or in drills Sin. 
 apart. Sow thinly in March. Subsequent culture consists 
 of keeping the soil free from weeds, giving an occasional 
 dusting of soot in showery weather, and slightly thinning 
 out where the seedlings are much crowded. We should also 
 add that in the event of the soil being very light it is advis- 
 
ONIONS. 
 
 77 
 
 able to give it a good treacling or rolling before sowing, as 
 a firm soil is a sine qua non for ensuring plump, solid bulbs. 
 As a rule, the bulbs will be ready to harvest early in August. 
 Good sorts for pickling are the Queen and the Silver-skinned. 
 
 TkEE ok EOVI'TI-^N OiNIUN. 
 
 llip l!ir"-(> Imlblet." are those tliat are suitable for use. The secnuila 
 or smaUer ones are adapted for planting in spring-. 
 
 Tree Onion. — This is an old-fashioned kind, formerly 
 much grown in cottage gardens. It produces two kinds of 
 bulbs, one at the base, which we shall term the basal bulb, 
 and others borne at tlie apex of what would, in the ordinary 
 
78 SALADS. 
 
 way, be tlie flowering stem. These stem bulbs are small 
 and borne in clusters. They are of the size of a hazel nut, 
 brownish-red in colour, and are excellent for pickling. The 
 basal bulbs may be used like ordinary onions. Unfortunately 
 the latter have to be used quickly, as they do not keep sound 
 verj- long, but the stem bulbs will retain their freshness till 
 the following spring. Basal bulbs should be planted in groups 
 of three 18in. apart, the distance between the bulbs being 
 Sin. Plant in March. When the stems form place a 3ft. 
 stake between each three bulbs, and secure them to this. - Or 
 the stem bulbs may be planted half an inch deep and im. 
 apart in rows Sin. asunder, in March. These will only pro- 
 duce basal bulbs the first year, but if replanted the follow- 
 ing year they will yield stem bulbs. 
 
 Potato, or Undergri'ound, Onion. — Another old- 
 fashioned onion, which yields small bulbs in clusters just 
 beneath the soil. The bulbs require to be planted just under 
 the surface in February, 9in. apart in rows 15in. asunder. 
 When the bulbs are nearly fully grown remove the soil from 
 around them so that the sun may ripen them thoroughly. 
 They are ready to harvest and pickle in July. 
 
 Welsh Onion, or Ciboule (Allium fistulosuni).— A 
 species of onion formerly much grown in Wales. It is quite 
 hardy, of perennial duration, and grows in clusters or tufts 
 after the manner of chives. It is non-bulbous, having simply 
 solid stems of a coppery-red colour. A few tufts of this 
 onion grown in a spare comer will yield a plentiful supply 
 of young shoots for spring salading. Seeds of it may also 
 be sown annually in September to furnish a supply of deli- 
 cate shoots for spring use. 
 
 Pests. — In the case of onions grown for salads there are 
 practically no pests to trouble about, as the crop is generally 
 consumed before much mischief can be done. The Onion 
 Fly, for example, does not lay its eggs before May, and so 
 we need not discuss this pest. 
 
PURSLANE. 79 
 
 Diseases. — Here, again, the Onion Mildew, Smut, etc,, 
 appear in summer only, and do not therefore afiect salading 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 PURSLANE. 
 
 The Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is an annual, and a native 
 of India and the Tropics, from whence it was first introduced 
 in 1582. It appears to have been cultivated from very 
 ancient times. Parkinson, in 1629, says: "It is much used 
 as lettice in sallets, to cool, hot, and faint stomaches in the 
 hot time of the yeare; but afterwards, if only for delight, it 
 is not good to bee too prodigall in the use thereof." 
 
 Culture. — Three varieties are grown, the Green-leaved, 
 Golden-leaved, and Large-leaved, and all are of about equal 
 merit. Sow the seeds broadcast on a light soil and in a 
 sunny position in April, May, June, July, and August. When 
 the seedlings are large enough to handle thin them out to 
 . about Gin. apart. When required for use cut off the tops 
 of the young shoots. In France the shoots are cooked and 
 eaten as a vegetable. 
 
 There is another kind, called Winter Purslane (Claytonia 
 perfoliata), which originally hailed from Cuba, but has 
 naturalised itself as a weed in Surrey. The French sow 
 this in the open air in early spring, and gather the leaves 
 for salads in summer, and cook and eat them like spinach. 
 
«" SALADS, 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 RADISHES. 
 
 The Radish (Raphanus sativus) is supposed to be a native 
 of Asia. Anywa}', it is recorded that it was largely grown 
 in Egypt in Pharaoh's time. The ancient Greeks, too, 
 esteemed it highly, one author devoting a whole book to it. 
 The Romans were also adepts in its cultivation. 
 
 Bulleiu, an author writing in 1562, remarked : ' Of radish 
 rootes there be no small store growing about the famous 
 eitie of London; they be more plentifuU than profytable, 
 and more noysome than nourishynge to manne's nature." 
 Gerarde mentions four sorts as growing in gardens in the 
 sixteenth century. 
 
 Parkinson, in 1629, says: "Radishes doe serve usually 
 as a flimulum before meate, giving an appetite thereunto ; 
 the poore eate them with bread and salt. Some that are 
 early sowen are eaten in Aprill, or sooner if the season per- 
 mit ; others come later ; and some are sowen late to serve 
 for the end of summer ; but the earlier are the more accepted. 
 Our Gardincrs about London used great fences of reede tyed 
 togetlier, which seemeth to bee a mat set upright, and is as 
 good as a wall to defend the cold from those things that 
 would be defended, and to bring them forward the earlier." 
 This shows that our ancient market growers were fully alive 
 even in those days to the importance of securing early crops. 
 
 An immense quantity of early radishes are imported 
 3-early from France, but our own growers come in later with 
 an ample supply. In private garden®, too, our gardeners 
 contrive to get early crops on hotbeds, and these form a 
 most delicious salading, either alone or in mixed salads. 
 
 Culture Outdoors.^ln order to obtain roots charac- 
 teristic of what a good radish really is, instead of the hot 
 and hollow specimens more often than not offered for sale 
 at the local greengrocers, the chief point to keep in view 
 
RADISHES. 81 
 
 to ensure perfectly sweet and juicy radishes is that the con- 
 ditions are always favourable which will ensure a quick and 
 
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 LoNc; Radish — Wood's Frame. 
 All old and good variety for forcing or growing outdoors 
 
 uninterrupted growth from the moment germination takes 
 place until the roots are large enough for table. 
 
 Therefore the importance of a well-prepared seed-bed 
 
«--2 SALADS. 
 
 slioulJ be ajjparentto all. AVhenever possible, choose a piewi 
 of well-dug and heaviiy-iiuuiured ground, raked quite free 
 from all rubbish, and in as friable a condition as possible, 
 avoiding that of a heavj-, pasty nature, which is least suit- 
 able of all for the growth of radishes. 
 
 Previous to sowing the seed thoroughly blacken the soil 
 with good soot, which should have been stored some time 
 previous to using. Rake this well into the soil, and endea- 
 vour to leave the bed as level as a billiard table. 
 
 • 
 
 The time of making the first sowing in the open air natu- 
 rally depends to a great extent on the soil and situation ; 
 but, provided a warm spot is available, it will be quite safe 
 to make the first sowing early in February. Sow broadcast, 
 using discretion in scattering the seeds, or many blank spots 
 will be present; while in other parts of the bed there will 
 be far more seedlings than can be allowed to remain, and, as 
 overcrowding is one of the greatest evils, the importance 
 of this apparently trifling detail will present itself to all 
 intelligent readers. Very little soil for covering will be 
 needed, but should severe frost set in it will b© as well to 
 afford the bed protection either by placing a light layer of 
 hay or straw over it, or several thicknesses of fish-netting 
 Should a period of dry weather prevail after germination 
 takes place water the bed with tepid water, returning the 
 covering of mats or straw for a few nights. 
 
 The increasing light and influence of the sun's heat will 
 soon be felt, and have a marked effect upon the growth of 
 the plants ; and in ordinary seasons good roots should be 
 ready in a few weeks after the tops appear above ground. 
 Successional small sowings should be made every two or three 
 weeks, in preference to one or two larger ones at longer 
 intervals. This will ensure all the roots being used while 
 young and tender, instead of allowing half the crop to run 
 to seed and become worthless, a not uncommon occurrence 
 even in otherwise well-managed gardens. If radishes are 
 sown after May, a moist, shady spot should be chosen, or 
 the roots will grow tough, wiry, and unpalatable. 
 
RADISHES. 
 
 83 
 
 Culture in Frames.--|(,.ulislK.s may he )ia<l vui-j early 
 ill the year l.y sowing on a, guntle lioll.fd' early in January, 
 and for this jmriiose it ^^■ill not lie necossaiy to employ a 
 great bulk of fermenting- material; and, instead of making 
 up a bed in the ordinary way, a few good liarrowloads of 
 manure and leaves placed in an ordinary garden frame Avill 
 answer the purpose. Sufficient lieating material should be 
 allowed for the be<-l to be within a few inches of the glass 
 after placing about 6in. of soil upon it. 
 
 
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 Tir/ixip-RdoTKi) P.,,M>isnEs. 
 (Ini.il alike tnr fiirciui,-- (ir dotdooi' culture. 
 
 When the heat begins to decline sow tlie seed and give a 
 gentle Avatering, keeping the frame closed until it is seen 
 the seeds are germinated. After this give a little air bv 
 tilting the back of the frame on all favourable occasions. 
 
 G 2 
 
84 SALADS. 
 
 Ihin out wherever crowded as soon as the plants are showing 
 tlie rough leaf, and continue to keep the bed well supplied 
 with tepid water until ready for pulling, or the quality of 
 tlie roots will degenerate. 
 
 Varieties. — Radishes are far more diversified, botli in 
 colour and form, than the general public are aware of, and 
 those who appreciate a constant supply are advised to be- 
 come acquainted with more than one or two in the different 
 sections. Generally speaking, on account of its quick bulb- 
 forming properties, the Turnip-rooted varieties are preferred 
 for frame or early outdoor sowing. These may be had in a 
 ■s-ariety of colours. In addition to these, we have the Olive- 
 shaped varieties, of which Carter's Forcing and Early Rose 
 are very fine. The same firm a few years ago introduced 
 a grand long variety, under the name of Icicle, which makes 
 a good companion to the long-since-popular French Breakfast, 
 or Knickerbocker, which grows over Bin. long. 
 
 Winter Radishes. — It is possible to grow radishes 
 iiutdoors in autumn and Avinter. For the former purpose 
 sow the Turnip-rooted kinds on a south border at the base 
 of a wall at the end of October. Thin out the seedlings 
 later to Sin. apart, and when severe weather sets in protect 
 with temporary frames. Winter radishes have to be sown 
 in July and August in drills Gin. apart. Thin out later to 
 Gin. apart, and late in November lift the unused roots and 
 store them in sand in a cool shed for use during the winter. 
 It will thus be seen that it is possible to have radishes all 
 the year round, if so desired. The Black Spanish and the 
 Ctiinese Scarlet are good sorts of winter radishes to culti- 
 vate. 
 
 Pests. — The Turnip Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta nemorum), 
 a small insect of very agile habits, now and then attacks 
 young radishes in summer, riddling the leaves with holes. 
 If this pest should make its appearance, dust the seedlings 
 early in the morning with lime or soot, and there will be 
 little trouble afterwards. 
 
RAMPION, 85 
 
 Diseases. — A mildew occasionally attacks radish foli- 
 age, but as it does not seriously affect the crop no notice 
 need be taken of it. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE RAMPION. 
 
 The Eampion (Campanula rapunculus) is a native of this 
 country and of Europe. Formerly it was grown more largely 
 than at the present day. It is a biennial, and has long, 
 whitish, radish-like roots of a pleasant nutty flavour, which, 
 with the leaves, make a pleasing addition to a winter salad. 
 Says Parkinson, in 1629 : " The roots are used for sallets, 
 being boyled, and then eaten with a little vinegar, oyle, 
 pepper, and salt." 
 
 Culture. — Older gardeners made a practice of sowing 
 the seed as soon as ripe, about the end of July or beginning 
 of August. From November onwards the roots were ready 
 to use until April. In frosty weather the plants were 
 covered with straw litter, the roots being deemed more 
 tender if left in the ground and lifted as required. 
 
 Modem authorities recommend the seed to be sown early 
 in May or June, broadcast or in shallow drills 9in. apart. 
 The seedlings must be thinned out early to Sin. or 4in. 
 apart, and be kept well watered in dry weather. The roots 
 are ready for use in October. In severe weather lift the 
 roots and store in sand in a cool place. The roots are eaten 
 raw. 
 
 Pests and Diseases. — None. 
 
«'i SALADS. 
 
 ('IIAl'TI';il XX. 
 
 THE SHALLOT. 
 
 TiiK Sliiilint, l-:scliiillot, or Scallion (Allium asculuiiiciiiii) is 
 .■I niiti\c of I'alestiue, and was first introduced in 154,"^. Tlie 
 (^ircL'ks in ancient times obtained their supplies of this bull) 
 fi'om the lloh- Land, and Pliin^ tells us that the Ascalonion 
 • tnions, as lie termed them, wei'e in his dav laro-elv used liv 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 KrssiAN (IK Larch IJiidwn iSuallots. 
 
 A v:ij i.-ty witli I ir.L^i-r biilh- th;nt tijc fommon Sli;illot ami in-own mostly 
 tor exl'ibitiiin. 
 
 I he Jioijians for makinL;- sauce. Shallots do not apjiear to 
 ha\e been grown very largely until the last centnrv. People 
 then began to lecognise their value for pickling pni'poses, 
 making sauces, and oci-asiunally for use in salads. Thev are, 
 111' couise, of niucli stronger n.'ivoui' 1han (lie oidon, and 
 lience are only apjirecialcd in salads by tla.se who prefer 
 sti'ong and pr(jnounced tla\'oui's. 
 
SHALLOTS. 
 
 87 
 
 Culture.— The bulbs — oi- cloves, as these aie generally 
 ttniietl — may be planted by being pressed lialf-way into the 
 soil any time from January until March; in fact, in some 
 country districts the villagers, who are notljing if not con- 
 servative in the matter of retaining old customs, still stick 
 to the time-honoured practice of planting on tlie shortest 
 and pulling on the longest day. But, while this method may 
 have suited fonner generations, it certainly does not apply 
 to the twentieth centui-j' ; for, owing to our late summers. 
 
 The Cojimon Siiallot. 
 A popular variety, largely grown for piekliii*i- and sance making. 
 
 it is very seldom the plants have finished growth until 
 Aug-U!5t, and to pull them before this would be folly. 
 
 Draw drills 1ft. or 13in. apart; place each bulb from 6in. 
 to 9in. apart in the rows, according to the variety, there 
 being several improved forms of the old type now obtain- 
 aljle. Plant the bulbs about two-thirds of their depth, not 
 more. Like all the onion tribe, these appreciate an occa- 
 sional dvisting of soot during tlie time growth is proceeding, 
 and a few good soakings of manure water bring their reward 
 by increased size and weight of crop. 
 
.S.S SALADS. 
 
 Directly growth is completed, as shown by the tops turn- 
 ing brown and withering, lift each clump with a small hand- 
 fork, and, after thoroughly baking in tho sun, store in a 
 dry shed or room. 
 
 Shallots may also be raised from seed sown on well-pre- 
 pared soil in March. Sow in shallow drills about 1ft. apart, 
 thinning the plants in the rows to about half this distance, 
 and keep the bed free from weeds by constantly using the 
 hoe. Give several applications of a good artificial manure, 
 and when growth is complete store in the usual way. 
 
 Varieties. — The two sorts usually grown are the Com- 
 mon, with conical or oval reddish bulbs, which usually store 
 well; and the Jersey, or Russian, with round, yellowish-red 
 bulbs of larger size than the preceding kind. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 SORREL. 
 
 The Common Sorrel (Rumex aoetosa), a native perennial, is 
 sometimes used as a salading by those who appreciate the 
 acid flavour of its leaves. The French also grow another 
 kind, the French Sorrel (Rumex scutatus), but this is boiled 
 and eaten like spinach. Two varieties, at least, of the 
 former are in cultivation, viz., the Common and the Belle- 
 \ille, the latter being considered the better of the two. 
 
 Although by most people Sorrel is looked upon only as a 
 wild herb of the field, the fact should not be lost sight of that- 
 under garden cultivation the leaves of this plant often form a 
 welcome addition to the mi.ved salad-bowl, and we not infre- 
 quently meet with those who appreciate a few tender leaves 
 sandwiched between thin slices of bread and butter, while at 
 
SORREL, 89 
 
 some tables it finds ready acceptance as a substitute for 
 spinach. Therefore, when we consider its several good 
 qualities we are led to regard it as a most useful plant; yet 
 it must be admitted that, excepting in very large gardens, 
 it is very rare to find any pretence made of cultivating it 
 save as an addition to the herb garden. 
 
 Culture. — Seeds may be sown during April, and a piece 
 of well-worked and highly-cultivated ground should be chosen 
 to form the bed. Draw out very shallow drills, not less than 
 1ft. apart, and when the seedlings appear thin out to Sin. 
 from each plant, leaving these until they touch ©ach other, 
 when every alternate plant may be removed. By this time 
 the leaves of the surplus ones will be large enough for various 
 uses. 
 
 Encourage those that are to form the peniianent bed to 
 make good growth by constant hoeing and frequent water- 
 ing should a long spell of dry weather set in. As the plants 
 increase in size they may again be thinned out, until at the 
 end of the summer they stand at least 1ft. apart. 
 
 During the winter montlis the ground between the rows 
 may be kept stirred, and frequently flooded with manure 
 water. At the return of spring growth will be very 
 rapid, and an abundant supply of extra large leaves will be 
 soon forthcoming. These may be kept constantly picked, 
 and all the seed spikes removed as they appear. At the 
 end of the season the bed may be destroyed, for if left until 
 the following year what leaves are produced will lack the 
 size and the substance of the previous year. 
 
 Pests and Diseases. — Practically none. 
 
90 SALADS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 WATERCRESS. 
 
 The Watercress (Nasturtium officinale) is a native of the 
 ditches, brooks, and pools of this country and Europe. It 
 has been cultivated for ages. The ancient Greeks had an 
 idea that the eating of watercress would put more life and 
 intelligence into dull and stupid persons; hence their ancient 
 proverb, " Eat cress and learn more wit." Xenophon ad- 
 vised the Persians to feed their children with it so as to 
 increase their stature; and Pliny, the Eoman naturalist, 
 advised it to be given to people with deranged minds. 
 
 Gerarde, in our own country, remarked in the sixteentli 
 century that the " Eating of watercresses restores the wonted 
 bloom to the cheeks of old young ladies.'' The celebrated 
 philosopher Lord Bacon also affirmed that " Watercress is an 
 herb that while young is friendly to life." 
 
 We do not find any earlier record of Watercress being 
 cultivated in England than 1808. Prior to that date the 
 small supplies required were apparently gathered wild, as 
 many country folk do at the present day in districts where 
 the Cress grows naturally. A gardener named Bradbury is 
 reputed to have been the first to cultivate Watercress in beds 
 in 1808. Since then Watercress has been grown very exten- 
 tively in districts where a good supply of running water Can 
 be obtained. In the spring and summer thousands of bunches 
 are sold in the metropolis alone, so great is the demand for 
 it. At one time large supplies were imported here from 
 Holland. 
 
 There are three varieties of the Watercress. One is the 
 Green-leaved, the wild fomi, and the most prolific and easiest 
 grower; another is the Small Brown-leaved, with small 
 loaves, and a very hardy sort; and the third, which is the 
 one usually grown for market, is the Large Brown-leaved, a 
 sort with short stalks and large, succulent leaves. 
 
WATERCRESS. 91 
 
 The moist popular and satisfactory method of growing 
 watercress is in a stream of running water, and in private 
 gardens or on estates where there is a running stream or 
 ditch of drinkable water it should be turned to good account 
 by forming watercress beds. 
 
 , Culture in Ditches — To prepare a ditch or stream 
 for planting it should first be well cleaned out, and if the 
 bed be of clear grit or gravel it will, without further aid, 
 be quite suitable for forming a bed. But if, as often hap- 
 pens, this is of sour mud, it should be taken out to the depth 
 of 6in., and in its place put a compost of loam, manure, 
 sand, or other grittj' substance. 
 
 Culture in Shallow Streams — In a shallow or 
 narrow stream of water several beds may be made by the 
 simple plan of providing stout planks, to be placed across 
 the stream at suitable distances; these to be stood in the 
 stream on their edges, and kept in position by stout stakes 
 being driven in on either side. Or another plan would be 
 to embed them firmly in the bottom of the stream. These 
 planks should be of sufficient width to raise the water in the 
 beds to a depth of 4in. to 6in., this being about the depth 
 we find our best cresses growing in the far-famed Berkshire 
 beds, which have the reputation of providing the best cress 
 which enters the London markets. The plan of making 
 several small beds in preference to one of large size has much 
 to recommend it to those who prefer a supply of cress over 
 a long season ; for this enables one to be always in-gathering, 
 while the others are going through the annual cleaning or 
 replanting. 
 
 Having prepared the bed, dibble in the shoots of young 
 cress Gin. apart, and when the area of the bed is covered 
 let the water flow in steadily, for if it comes with a rush 
 the majority of the shoots will be washed out. 
 
 The season most general for making new beds is early in 
 May, as good cress from this bed will be ready for cutting 
 from August onward. A well-known saying among country 
 
02 SALADS, 
 
 folk where watercress abounds is that the cress is only in 
 season during those months having the letter " R " in the 
 word forming the month. Other beds may be planted early 
 in October; these will furnish good cress during the spring 
 months. As soon as a bed has ceased to be useful the roots 
 should be cleared awaj-, and the bed re-made and planted. 
 
 Culture in Trenches.— Dig out a trench 2ft. wide 
 and 1ft. deep, in a sunny part of the garden. Place 6in. 
 of decayed manure in the bottom and Sin. of soil on top. 
 j^ake the surface level, then sow seeds thinly and rake them 
 in, afterwards giving a thorough watering. Place some 
 sticks over the. trench, and cover these with mats until the 
 seedlings appear, when remove altogether. All that is re- 
 quired afterwards- is, during dry weather to give the seed- 
 lings an ample supply of water. Seeds sown in April will 
 yield cress fit to cut from June onwards, and another sowing 
 made in August will continue the supply throughout the 
 winter. When the crop has been gathered dig out the old 
 soil and manure, add fresh, and then re-sow. It will thus be 
 seen that it is possible to grow watercress without the aid 
 of a stream. The only point to study is to give a regular 
 .ind ample supply of water to ensure juicy shoots. 
 
 Culture In Pans — Procure some seed-pans 1ft. in 
 diameter and 4iu. to Gin. deep, and fill these with a mixture 
 of loam and old mortar rubbish. Previously sow seeds of 
 watercress in a shallow box of light soil in gentle heat or 
 in a cold frame. As soon as the seedlings can be handled 
 transplant them 3in. apart in above pans, and water tho- 
 roughly. When the seedlings have begun to grow, immerse 
 the pans half their depth in a vessel of water in a cold frame 
 or cool greenhouse. As soon as the shoots are Sin. long cut 
 off their tops near the soil for use. In due course another 
 crop of young shoots will appear, which may be cut also, 
 and then a third crop may be grown, after which rear a 
 fresh batch of seedlings. After the first crop give a dose of 
 weak liquid manure. The latter, however, should never be 
 
FRENCH METHODS, 93 
 
 given when the shoots are sufficiently advanced for cutting, 
 as it would spoil their flavour. 
 
 Instead of sowing seeds purchase a bunch of watercress 
 and insert the points as cuttings in' the pans. These will 
 give an earlier crop than the seedlings. 
 
 Pests. — "When watercress is grown in streams of clear, 
 running water, kept free from aquatic weeds, there are prac- 
 tically no pests to worry about. Where water runs slowly 
 or is stagnant, fresh-water shrimps are apt to eat the roots, 
 and water parasites of various kinds attach themselves to 
 the plants and cause them to be rusty or unhealthy. In this 
 case throw in a little fresh lime occasionally; this will free 
 the water of such pests. 
 
 Duckweed sometimes proves troublesome. This can be 
 got rid of by flooding the beds well above the cress, so that 
 the weed floats on the surface; then it can be drawn off by 
 means of a hay rake. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 FRENCH METHODS. 
 
 Since the advent of what is called " French gardening " a 
 good deal of attention has been drawn to the question of 
 rearing early crops of vegetables and saladings on hotbeds. 
 An almost similar idea was, however, practised by gardeners 
 in large establishments for many years prior to the present 
 " boom." The idea, no doubt, is a good one where salads 
 have to be reared in quantity, and so, for the benefit of those 
 who may feel disposed to try the experiment, we will devote 
 a special chapter to the subject. 
 
 The Primary Features of the Continental system of 
 intensive culture is to form hotbeds, about 18in. deep, of 
 
!)4 SALADS, 
 
 xpce-ially -selected and prepared manure, place Gin. of good 
 prejjared soil on top, then to sow seeds or plant out seed- 
 lings, and to cover these with frames or cloches. Two or 
 more vegetables are usually sown together, as radishes and 
 Shorthorn carrots, for example. The radishes are fit for 
 use first. Seedling lettuce then take their place, and are 
 ready for use next, being followed by a crop of cauliflowers. 
 The next crop to mature are the carrots, and their place is 
 then occupied by cucumbers, which permanently occupy the 
 frame for the remainder of the season. It will thus be seen 
 that there is a continued succession of crops grown on the 
 same beds-— radishes, lettuce, carrots, cauliflowers, and 
 cucumbeis. We will now show how this is accomplished. 
 
 Manure. — For our present purpose fresh horse manure 
 containing plenty of urine-saturated straw is essential. 
 Manure containing shavings, sawdust, or peat-moss is quite 
 unsuitable. This manure must be collected between Ma}- 
 and September, and neatly stacked in a heap till December. 
 No turning over of the manure is required. 
 
 Beds. — The most suitable time to start the beds in this 
 country is early in January. In France the gardeners start 
 earlier, but, seeing that November and December are very 
 cold and sunless mouths, the crops would make little pro- , 
 gress. In January, then, proceed to make the hotbed as 
 follows : 
 
 Remove the upper Gin. of soil, and- if good place it in a 
 heap by itself; if not, -then take the soil out to the depth 
 of a foot and to the width of 5ft. Gin. Even if the upper 
 Gin. be first removed, as suggested, a further Gin. should 
 also be removed and taken right away. The length of the 
 bed may be Gft., 12ft., or 18ft., as desired. 
 
 Next proceed to get the manure from the stack, and to 
 one part of this add one part of fresh manure. Mix the two 
 thoroughly, and let them remain for a week, turning the 
 material over every two days to cause it to become sweet 
 3et warm. At the end of the week place the manure in the 
 
96 SALADS. 
 
 bed, spreading out evenly and breaking up every lump. As 
 each layer is added tread it down firmlj-, and continue to 
 add manure until the surface of the bed is Gin. above the 
 ordinary ground level. Finally, tread the bed evenly and 
 firmly to ensure a steady, lasting warmth. 
 
 Frames and Cloches — The frames used by Frencli 
 growers are made of l^in. wood, are 9in. high at back, 
 tin. in front, 4ft. wide, and 13ft. long. The corners are 
 usually clamped with iron to prevent them warping. These 
 frames cost from 28s. to 40s. each. The sashes are 4ft. 
 wide, and glazed with glass 52in. square. The cloches are 
 dome or bell-shaped, and made in the following diameters : 
 14in., 16in., 18in., and 20in., and cost about Is. 6d. each. 
 
 Soiling; the Beds. — Having made the beds, the next 
 thing is to add the soil. This should be good friable garden 
 soil, mixed, if possible, with a fair quantity of well-rotted 
 manure, leaf-soil, and burnt refuse. It is well to put through 
 a fine screen before use to remove stones, etc. After the 
 first season the French growers mix some of the old hotbed 
 manure with it, and so continue to use the same compost 
 over and over again. The constant yearh' addition of old 
 manure greatly improves the richness of the compost, and 
 tlius makes it practically a " golden soil " so far as richness 
 goes. Add 4in. to Gin. of this soil to the bed, and then 
 you have laid the foundation for ensuring a succession of 
 crops. 
 
 The Crops. — Make your first sowing early in January 
 of radishes and Shorthorn carrots, sowing the seeds thinly. 
 The radishes will be ready to gather and use late in Febru- 
 ary. Now, assuming that you had sown lettuce in October 
 on a warm border, and you had transplanted the seedlings 
 at the rate of 24 under cloches in the same border, these 
 would be ready to lift and transplant into the frames at the 
 same time early in January. Plant twenty fine lettuces 
 under each sash. The lettuce thus planted will be sufficiently 
 
FRENCH METHODS 
 
 matured to cut for use earh' in March. Two of the crops 
 are therefore disposed of. As soon as the lettuce crop is 
 finished plant four seedling cauliflowers under each sash. 
 The cauliflowers for this purpose are sown iri October, and 
 protected under cloches on a warm border outdoors until 
 required for the frames. In April the carrots are ready for 
 use, and their place is then taken by one cucumber plant 
 under each sash. In May the cauliflowers are ready to cut, 
 and in June and onwards there is the crop of cucumbers to 
 finish up the season. 
 
 Endive may also be sown under cloches outdoors in Sep- 
 tember, and when the seedlings have formed their third leaf 
 be transplanted at the rate of a dozen to each cloche. In 
 November transplant these to cold frames to come in for 
 use in February. 
 
 Celerj', again, maj' be had fit for use in July by sowing 
 the seeds on a mild hotbed early in January, transplanting 
 the seedlings a few inches apart later, and finally planting 
 them a foot apart on a hotbed previously sown with turnips 
 and radishes in January, and cleared of these crops early 
 in March. When the plants are a foot high tie a piece of 
 raffia around the leaf-stalks, and fill the spaces between with 
 dry tree leaves to blanch them. 
 
 Succession al hotbeds made as directed for the frames may 
 be made in February, March, and April, and tlie same kind 
 of crops grown thereon under cloches. In this case the 
 radishes and carrots would need no protection, but come on 
 naturally. The lettuce, however, would iieed to be protected 
 by cloches. It is usual to plant a cos lettuce in the centre 
 and three or four cabbage lettuce around it. One cauliflower 
 would also be grown to each cloche. Ridge cucumbers, too, 
 may be started under cloches in May. 
 
 General Details. — It will be necessary in the case of 
 hotbeds formed in January, February, March, and April, to 
 afford protection to the frames, especially at night. The 
 action of frost or cold air on the glass at night will naturally 
 cause loss of heat, and hence reduce the temperature of the 
 
98 SALADS. 
 
 beds and retard growth of the crops. The French growera 
 use mats made of rye straw. Such mats are to be obtained 
 ready made in lengths of 6ft. and widths of 2ft. from dealers 
 in French garden sundries. The usual price is Is. 6d. each. 
 These are easih' rolled on the frames at night, and their 
 thickness keeps off a good deal of cold. 
 
 Then careful attention must, of course, be paid to ven- 
 tilation. The frames will require to be opened more or less 
 according to the amount of sunshine on warm days, and 
 closed again immediately the sun ceases to shine. Cloches, 
 too, will need to be tilted slightly to admit air on bright 
 days and closed again later in the day. No definite rules 
 can be laid down ; the amount of ventilation to be given 
 must be governed by the daily state of the weather and 
 other local conditions. 
 
 Watenng will certainly need close and constant attention. 
 The water used should never be cold, but tepid, otherwise 
 the bed and the crops will be chilled. 
 
 It will be necessary also to shade the frames on bright, 
 K\mny days when the seeds are first sown, but directly the 
 seedlings appear discontinue the shading. Newly-planted 
 crops, whether in frames or under cloches, will require 
 sliading and keeping close for a few days. 
 
 Varieties. — Most of the kinds of saladings mentioned 
 in the preceding chapter are equally well adapted for the 
 French system of culture. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, how- 
 ever, who have paid special attention to the subject, recom- 
 mend the following varieties : Cos Lettuce — Dwarf Frame, 
 Paris Market, and Paris '\Vhite ; Cabbage Lettuce — Early 
 Paris, Golden Frame, and Earliest of All ; Radish — Forcing 
 French Breakfast, Early White-tipped, and Red Market; and 
 Cucumber — Improved Telegraph. 
 
 Outdoor intensive Cropping^- — The French 
 growers certainly make the most of the land at their dis- 
 posal — and so, indeed, do manj"- of our English gardeners. 
 Thus they often sow such crops as Corn Salad, Radishes, and 
 Chervil in the same plot. The radishes, of course, are soon 
 
SOME SALAD RECIPES, 99 
 
 ready for use, leaving the other crops in possession. Let- 
 tuce and Endive, again, are grown between rows of cauli- 
 flowers or cabbage ; in fact, every foot of ground is laid under 
 tribute for growing some crop or other. 
 ^ English gardeners often grow radishes and lettuce on 
 celery ridges, or on newly-planted asparagus beds; radishes 
 on marrow or ridge cucumber beds, or between rows of peas, 
 and so on. The keen gardener bent on making the most of 
 his garden, will soon discover ways and means of growing 
 plenty of saladings in unorthodox ways. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 SOME SALAD RECIPES. 
 
 Somehow or other British folk have never appreciated salads 
 to the same extent as the French and. Italians. The latter 
 would certainly consider their dinner menu incomplete with- 
 out a salad every day in the year, and hence saladings are 
 on sale in the Continental markets all the year roimd 
 In this country it is true that salads are appreciated in the 
 summer time, when it is possible to get a good supply of 
 lettuce, ladishes, cucumbers, and tomatoes. The wealthier 
 classes have had the opportunity of obtaining forced salad- 
 ings in winter and spring for a long time, the supply coming 
 from the Continent. Since the advent of the French inten- 
 sive system of growing early crops it has been possible to get 
 lettuce, radishes, chicory, dandelion, etc., earlier in the 
 spring, and at a cheaper rate than we used to do, and as the 
 new system becomes an established fact our town and city 
 folk may be able to command material for salads most, if 
 not the whole, of the year. 
 
 A Cucumber Salad. — Cucumber used to be considered 
 indigestible, but nowadavs doctors tell us that it is the vine- 
 
 H 2 
 
100 SALADS. 
 
 gar we take with it that makes it disagree; so if we use 
 lemon juice, or even a salad dressing, we shall prevent 
 troublesome consequences. Cucumber is very cooling when 
 thinly sliced, seasoned, and placed between slices of bread 
 
 and butter. 
 
 • 
 
 A French Salad. — A delicious salad maj, according to 
 the celebrated French chef (Mons. Soyer), be prepared as 
 follows : Take two large lettuces, remove the outer leaves, 
 and cut off the tips of the remainder. Pull each leaf off 
 separately, and well rinse in cold water; then cut it length- 
 ways, and again crossways, into several portions. Next add 
 some endive treated in the same way, or some watercress, 
 nmstard-and-cress, or blanched chicory. Over this sprinkle 
 a teaspoonful of salt, half-a-teaspoonful of pepper, three tea- 
 spoonfuls of oil, and two teaspoonfuls of vinegar. Add also 
 a teaspoonful each of chopped chervil and tarragon. A few 
 chives or j'oung onions may be added if desired. With a 
 salad spoon and fork mix the salad in the bowl till thoroughly 
 mixed. Finish off with some sliced cucumber, radishes, and 
 beetroot, and a couple of sliced boiled eggs. One or more 
 nasturtium flowers placed on top will add to the attractive- 
 ness of the salad. 
 
 A Lobster Salad. — Prepare a mixed salading in the 
 usual way, then open the lobster, remove the meat from the 
 tail and claws, out this into small portions, and arrange them 
 on the salad. Next remove the soft part from the belly of 
 the lobster, add to it a teaspoonful of salt, half an one of 
 pepper, four of vinegar, and four of oil. Mix together and 
 pour over the salad. Boil a couple of eggs hard, cut them 
 into slices, and arrange with some sliced cucumber on the 
 salad. Nasturtium flowers may be added as an ornament. 
 
 A Good Coolings Salad — Chop up fine half a tea- 
 cupful each of cucumber, tomato, and apple, and a teaspoon- 
 ful each of radish and onion. With tliis mix thoroughly 
 the French salad dressing described above, then pour the 
 whole over a bed of watercress or lettuce placed in the salad 
 bowl. 
 
SOME SALAD RECIPES. 101 
 
 An Autumn Salad — a few leaves and heart of lettuce, 
 a few sprigs of cauliflower, one onion, a little parsley, and 
 a head of celery. Mix all lightly in a salad bowl. Just 
 before serving a sauce should be poured over made from the 
 juice of a lemon, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two tabk- 
 spoonfuls of olive oil, and a little salt. Then sliced tomatoes 
 should be placed around as a garnish. 
 
 A Delicious Salad with cream cheese is. made by 
 mashing a cream cheese with a little cream, adding half a 
 cup of chopped walnuts, forming into balls, and arranging 
 on a bed of well-cleaned watercress or lettuces. Serve this 
 with a French dressing, or a mayonnaise. Yolk of egg, lemon 
 juice, a little salt, and red pepper, with a little pure olive 
 oil, makes a simple and health-giving dressing for salads, 
 and one that can be partaken of by children. 
 
 Potato Salad (sufficient for two persons). — Slice into 
 a salad bowl four cold boiled potatoes, and add a dessert- 
 spoonful of chopped onions and a few chopped capers. Mix 
 well and- carefully together, taking care not to break the 
 delicate slices of potatoes. Now take a little salt, mustard, 
 and pepper, and place into a tablespoon, filling up with malt 
 vinegar and mixing thoroughy. Pour contents of spoon over 
 salad, and stir carefully as above. Let it stand for half an 
 Hour to enable dressing to thoroughly incorporate with the 
 potatoes, and before serving add one tablespoonful of best 
 salad oil, lightly lifting the salad from the bowl to enable 
 the oil to penetrate. Garnish with a little chopped parsley. 
 
 Tomato Salad (sufficient for two persons). — Take 
 three good-sized ripe and firm tomatoes, slice, and place in 
 a bowl. Into a separate bowl place a dessert-spoonful of 
 chopped onions and a few cornichons chopped very fine. Mix 
 well. Into a tablespoon put a teaspoonful of mustard, a little 
 salt and pepper, and fill up with French vinegar, stirring 
 well until the mustard is quite dissolved; then add a table- 
 spoonful of salad oil, and mix all well together. Pour mix- 
 
l'>2 SALADS. 
 
 tuie over tomatoes, and allow it to thoroughly penetrate by 
 Lrently lifting the salad. Particular note should be taken 
 not to stir the tomatoes and the dressing about in the bowl, 
 as, not only are the tomatoes liable to break, but the appear- 
 ance of tlie salad is not at all satisfactory. This tomato salad 
 dressing can also be used for a beetroot salad, with the slight 
 alteration that a little less mustard should be used. 
 
 Chicken Salad — Take part of a boiled or roast 
 chicken, and remove all the meat and cut into nice slices, 
 and place in a salad bowl. Now take a slice of ham or 
 tongue, or both, cut into small pieces, and add to the chicken. 
 Xext add the hearts of two or three nice lettuces — cos let- 
 tuces preferred; do not cut the leaves, but separate them 
 carefully. Now take a separate bowl and rub a bead of 
 garlick lightly round it. Put into this bowl two tablespoon- 
 fuls of cream, a little made mustard, some pepper and salt, 
 a little castor sugar, and the yoke of one hard-boiled egg. 
 Mix well together, and thin with a little oil -and French 
 vinegar to the consistency of cream. Arrange the chicken 
 and lettuce nicely, then pour the dressing over. Garnish 
 with hard-boiled eggs sliced, beetroot, and a little chopped 
 parsley. The dish should be served immediately after 
 making. 
 
 A Simple Salad. — Salads can be made from almost 
 any greenstuff. The simplest recipe that we know of is the 
 following : Take half a lettuce and a few spring onions, wash 
 them w^ell and dry them in a clean cloth ; break the lettuce 
 carefully, and slice the onions finely, and place them in a 
 dish. Boil an egg hard, cut it in slices, and place the slices 
 on top of the greenstuff. Then pour a small quantity of 
 salad oil and vinegar over the whole, and add a little pepper 
 and salt. Almost any other edible vegetable can he used in 
 place of, or with, those mentioned. A few slices of beetroot 
 are a great improvement. 
 
 A Good Mixed Salad. — Here is a more complicated 
 recipe. Take a lettuce, not over large, ten spring onions, 
 
SOME SALAD RECIPES. 1C3 
 
 an ouiire of mint, and an ounce of parslej-; wash and dry 
 them, and cut (not tear) the lettuce and watercress into small 
 pieces. Mince the parsley, mint, and onions veiy fine, and 
 then take two cold boiled potatoes and pass them through a 
 sieve. Add a tablespoonful each of vinegar, salt, and cayenne 
 pepper, and thoroughly mix the whole together. Boil four 
 eggs hard, cut the whites into slices, and mix them with the 
 greenstuff. Mix the yokes into a paste with a large table- 
 spoonful of salad oil, and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 
 and pour over the whole. 
 
 A Spring; Salad. — Add a nice young lettuce or two 
 and some blanched dandelion or chicory to the bowl. Add 
 also three small, young onions, cut across quickly into 
 smallish pieces, all the tough parts being rejected. Next cut 
 up two or three radishes, and if they happen to be large pare 
 them to remove the rind, and only cut into the bowl the best 
 parts of them. Two thin slices of beetroot and one hard- 
 boiled egg should follow these, being cut up over the bowl, 
 and then we proceed to the mixing. Supposing the lettuce 
 to be of good size, add one and a half or two tablespoonfuls 
 of oil, and pour this over the vegetables, and stir them about. 
 In a tablespoon or cup mix a smallish teaspoonful of dry 
 mustard, a very small pinch of salt, an exceedingly small 
 quantity of red pepper, and about half as much tarragon 
 vinegar as already used of oil. The first mistake of all 
 novices is to use an excess of salt and vinegar. These should 
 be kept down in quantity, and the oil should be used liber- 
 ally, but, of course, not to su<:>h an extent that it will sepa- 
 rate from the vegetables; but, on the other hand, they should 
 have as much as they can absorb without showing it. 
 
 Having added the mixture of vinegar and condiments, pro- 
 ceed to chop and mix, but do not mince it. A few cuts 
 across and across and one or two stirrings with a spoon will 
 blend the whole together perfectly, and there will be a deli- 
 cious salad, sufficient probably for three persons; but that, 
 of course, will depend much upon the size of the lettuce and 
 other vegetables. 
 
1C4 SALADS. 
 
 A Good Salad Dressing—The following is a change 
 from the salad di'essings previously given. Take one hard- 
 boiled egg, one teaspoonful of castor sugar, four teaspoonfuls 
 of milk or cream, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, quarter- 
 teaspoonful of dry mustard and salt. Take the yolk of the 
 hard-boiled egg, put it into a basin, add sugar, mustard, and 
 salt, and mix all smoothly together. Add the cream or milk, 
 stir well, and then add the lemon juice slowly. Pour this 
 dressing over any seasonable salad (lettuce, cress, tomatoes, 
 boiled sliced tomatoes, beans, potatoes), then chop tlie wliite 
 of the egg and scatter over the top. 
 
 Our Own Favourite Dressing: — We mix our own 
 
 dressing directly the salad is prepared. According to the 
 quantity of salad we use a dessert or a tablespoon to measure 
 tlie ingredients for the dressing. Thus we measure off one 
 spoonful of oil and add a little pepper to it, mix, and pour 
 over the salad. We then take a second spoonful of oil, add 
 a little salt, mix, and pour this also over the salad. We next 
 add two more spoonfuls of oil, and then mix the salad tho- 
 roughly. This done, we take a spoonful of ordinary or 
 Tarragon vinegar, add a little amstard to it, mixing it well, 
 and pour this over the whole. The vinegar will gravitate 
 gradually among the salad and need no mixing. Provided 
 the salading be j-oung, crisp, and fresh, this will make an 
 ideal dressing, pleasant to the palate, and not too acid. Some 
 like a sprinkle of fine sugar over the salad — tliis is purely 
 a matter of taste. Wlien eaten with warm meat a dash of 
 claret or sherry, or gravy, will still further enhance the 
 piquanc}' of the salad. 
 
 A French Salad Dressing: — Mix thoroughly a quar- 
 ter-teaspoonful of pepper and half-a-teaspoonful of salt with 
 three tablespoonfuls of salad oil. Do this on a plate by 
 Tueans of a table fork. Add gradually, a drop at a time, 
 a tablespoonful of vinegar, and ■well mix until a cream-like 
 emulsion is formed. A very small quantity of caj'enne may 
 be added if desired. 
 
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<s%a a^ a^ a^ <i^ a^^ 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PAGK 
 
 American Laud Cress ... ... 
 
 9 
 
 Celery — 
 
 
 
 
 Protecting in AVinter ... 
 
 24 
 
 Beet Carrion Beetle, Eeme- 
 
 
 Stem Fly, The 
 
 28 
 
 dies for 
 
 Culture of 
 
 14 
 10 
 
 Turnip-rooted 
 
 Chervil, Culture of 
 
 15 
 30 
 
 Diseases and Pests of ... 
 
 14 
 
 History of 
 
 
 Fly, Eemedies for 
 
 14 
 
 30 
 
 for Early Salads 
 
 Glo'be, The 
 
 11 
 11 
 
 Chicory, Barbe de Capucine 
 Blanching 
 
 31 
 32 
 
 History of 
 
 10 
 
 Cultuj-eof 
 
 31 
 
 Lifting; and Storing 
 
 13 
 
 Diseases and Pests of ... 
 
 33 
 
 Bust Disease of 
 
 14 
 
 Forcing 
 
 32 
 
 Turnip-rooted 
 
 11 
 
 History of 
 
 31 
 
 Varieties of 
 
 13 
 
 Lifting and Storing ... 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 Varieties of 
 
 33 
 
 Celeriac, Culture of 
 
 15 
 
 Witloof or Belgian 
 
 31 
 
 History of 
 
 15 
 
 Chivee, Culture of 
 
 33 
 
 Celery, Blanching 
 
 21 
 
 History of 
 
 33 
 
 Diseases and Pests of 28, 
 
 29 
 
 ChTistmas Salad 
 
 31 
 
 Early Crops of 
 
 18 
 
 Cloches for Protecting 
 
 
 Feeding 
 
 25 
 
 Saladiugs 
 
 96 
 
 Fly Maggot, Eemedies for 
 
 28 
 
 Corn Salad 
 
 34 
 
 ' French Mode of Growing 
 
 97 
 
 History of 
 
 34 
 
 Heart Rot Disease, Tlie 
 
 29 
 
 Cress, Americai Land 
 
 9 
 
 History of 
 
 16 
 
 Garden, Culture of 
 
 70 
 
 Late Crop, Culture of ... 
 
 24 
 
 Cucumber Canker Disease, 
 
 
 Iieaf Eust Disease, The... 
 
 29 
 
 Tie 
 
 50 
 
 Leaf Scorch Disease, The 
 
 29 
 
 Collar Eot Disease, The 
 
 50 
 
 Mainorop, Culture of ... 
 
 21 
 
 Diseases of the 
 
 50 
 
 Manures for 
 
 25 
 
 Eelworm, The ... 
 
 49 
 
108 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cncumber — 
 
 Fruit Eot Disease, The 
 Gherkin, The ... 
 History of the ... 
 Japanese, The .., 
 Leaf Blotch Disease, The 
 Mildew, The ... 
 Ridge, The 
 Cucumbers, Cultare 
 
 Frames 
 
 Greenhouses . . . 
 
 in Hotbeds ... 
 
 of Japanese ... 
 
 Outdoors 
 
 in Pots 
 
 of Eidge 
 
 in Winter 
 
 Feeding 
 
 French Mode of Growing 
 Greenfly, Infesting 
 
 Manures for 
 
 Pests of 
 
 Red Spider Infesting .. 
 
 Thrips Infesting 
 
 Varieties for Indoor Cul- 
 ture 
 
 of Ridge 
 
 Dacdelion, Blanching Leaves 
 
 of the 
 
 Culture of the .., 
 Varieties of the 
 
 Erdive, Blanching 
 
 Culture of 
 
 in Frames 
 French Mode of Growing 
 
 History of 
 
 Pests Attacking 
 Storing in Winter 
 Varieties of 
 
 50 
 £3 
 36 
 54 
 50 
 50 
 52 
 
 45 
 36 
 45 
 53 
 51 
 43 
 52 
 44 
 42 
 97 
 49 
 42 
 48 
 40 
 49 
 
 48 
 53 
 
 58 
 57 
 58 
 
 60 
 59 
 60 
 97 
 58 
 61 
 60 
 59 
 
 FAQE 
 
 French Gardening 93 
 
 Methods of Growing 
 
 Saladings 93 
 
 Saladings, Varieties of ... 98 
 
 Intensive Cropping 
 
 98 
 
 Lettuce 62 
 
 Culture of Early 64 
 
 of Summer 66 
 
 of Winter 67, 68 
 
 Diseases and Pests 69 
 
 French Mode of Growing 96 
 
 History of 62 
 
 Mildew ot riO 
 
 Root Aphis Infesting ... 69 
 
 Varieties for Early Use... 66 
 
 for Summer Use GO 
 
 for Winter Use 68 
 
 Young tor Salads ... 68 
 
 Mu-stard, Culture of 70 
 
 Nasturtiums, Culture of, 
 
 for Salads 72 
 
 Onion, Ciboule, The 78 
 
 History of the 73 
 
 Potato or Underground... 78 
 
 Tree or Egyptian, The ... 77 
 
 Welsh, Ths 78 
 
 Onions 73 
 
 Culture Outdoors 74 
 
 under Glass 76 
 
 Diseases and Pests of ... 79 
 
 Pickling 76 
 
 Purslane, Culture of 79 
 
 History of 79 
 
 Winter 79 
 
 Radish, History of the ... 80 
 
INDEX. 
 
 109 
 
 Radishes 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 80 
 
 Salad Recipes — 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Culture in Frames 
 
 . 83 
 
 Spring, A 
 
 .. .. 104 
 
 Outdoors 
 
 . 80 
 
 Vegetables, Culture 
 
 at a 
 
 French Mode of Growing 96 
 
 Glance 
 
 105 
 
 Pests Attacking 
 
 . 84 
 
 Scallion Onion, The 
 
 86 
 
 Varieties of 
 
 . 84 
 
 Seeds, Germinating Period 
 
 Winter 
 
 . 84 
 
 of 
 
 105 
 
 Eampion, Culture of the .. 
 
 . 85 
 
 Longevity of ... . 
 
 105 
 
 Rape, The 
 
 . 70 
 
 Quantities to Sow . 
 
 . ... 105 
 
 Ridge Cucumber, Tlie 
 
 . 52 
 
 Shallot, Culture of the ... 87 
 
 Salad Recipes, Some 
 
 An Autumn 
 
 Chicken, A 
 
 Cooling, A good 
 
 Cucumber, A 
 
 . 99 
 
 101 
 
 102 
 
 100 
 
 99 
 
 History of ths 
 Varieties of the 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Culture of 
 
 French, The ... . 
 
 . ... 86 
 . ... 88 
 . ... 88 
 . ... 89 
 . ... 88 
 
 Delicious, A 
 
 Dressing, A Good. 
 
 101 
 102 
 
 Turnip Flea Beetle, The ... 84 
 
 Favourite Dressing, Our 
 
 102 
 
 Watercress 
 
 . ... 90 
 
 French, A 
 
 100 
 
 Culture in Ditches . 
 
 . ... 91 
 
 French Dressing, A 
 
 104 
 
 in Pans 
 
 . ... 92 
 
 Lobster, A 
 
 100 
 
 in Streams ... . 
 
 . ... 91 
 
 Mixed, A Good 
 
 103 
 
 in Trenches ... . 
 
 . ... 92 
 
 Potato, A 
 
 101 
 
 History of the . . . 
 
 . ... 90 
 
 Simple, A 
 
 103 
 
 Pests Attacking 
 
 . ... 93 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Beet, Long-rooted 
 Turnip-rooted ... . 
 
 Celery, Prize Sticks of ... 17 
 
 Cress Grown in a Pan ... 71 
 Cucumber Culturj under 
 
 Glass ... Fronjtispiece. 
 
 Japanese Climbing 5.5 
 
 Kidge, The 53 
 
 Telegraph, The 37 
 
 French Garden at Mayland, 
 
 Essex 95 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 I' AGE 
 
 . 13 
 
 Lettuce, 
 
 Bed of Cabbage. 
 
 .. 63 
 
 . ]] 
 
 
 
 
 Mustard Grown in a Pan... 70 
 
 Onion Tree or Egyptian, The 77 
 
 Onions, Bunch of Spring... 75 
 
 .Radish, Turnip-rooted ... 83 
 
 Wood's Frame ... 81 
 
 Salading,. A Prize Collection 
 
 of 27 
 
 Shallot, Common, The S7 
 
 Russian, The 86 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 HI 
 
 DELICIOUS SALADING 
 
 ALL THE YEAR ROUND 
 
 MAY BE OBTAINED BY GROWING 
 SOME OF THE FOLLOWING SUBJECTS : 
 
 Beet 
 
 Cucumber 
 Celery 
 
 Christinas Salad 
 (Chicory) 
 
 Endive 
 
 „ (Scarole) 
 Lettuce (Cos) 
 
 »> » 
 
 „ (Cabbage) 
 
 Radish 
 
 Tomato 
 
 Sutton's Blood Red. 
 Sutton's Everyday. 
 Sutton's Superb Pink. 
 
 Sutton's Extra Green Curled. 
 Sutton's Winter Lettuce-leaved. 
 Sutton's White Heart. 
 Sutton's Winter White. 
 Sutton's Commodore Nutt. 
 Sutton's Golden Ball. 
 Sutton's Standwell. 
 Sutton's French Breakfast. 
 Sutton's Red Whitetipped. 
 Sutton's Winter Beauty. 
 Sutton's Al. 
 
 Seeds of Corn Salad, Witloof, Mustard and Cress, Onion, and 
 other salad plants can also he supplied. 
 
 COMPLETE PRICE LIST ON APPLICATION. 
 
 SUTTON & SONS, 
 
 The Royal Seed Establishment, READING. 
 
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