GARDENING MADE EASY COUNTRY LIFE LIBRARY Cornell XDinivetsiti^ OF THE IRew l^orft State College of Hgriculture a^.(o.lia j>b.i.i;..|.i Bioi SB 453 C77 "*" ""'™''*''^ '""'"'>' <5afclening made easy; a simple handbook to 3 1924 002 841 868 „,. Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002841868 Telegrams I BARR, LONDON. Telephone t 2S91 CENTRAL. 6ARR3jifif§EED5 foi^ Flower ^Kitchen Garden BARR'S SEED GUIOE contains a Select List ol the Best Seeds tor securing a supply of Vegetables "the year round," and a full Descriptive List of the most beautiful Annuals and Perennials for keeping the Flower harden and Greenhouse always gay. It is full of Practical Hints on the culture of Vegetables and Flowers, valuable to Gardeners, Amateurs , and Exhibitors.— Sent Free on AppKcafion. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF SUPERIOR VEGETABLE 5/6, 7/6, 12/6, 21/-, 42/-, 63/- to 105/-. Full Particulars on Application. SEEDS. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS. 2/6, 5/6, 7/6, 10/6, 15/-, 21/-, 30/-, 42/-, & 63/-. Full Particulars on Application. DAQD'O Beautiful Hardy. '^^pI^S DAFf ODIL'S AWARDED TWENTY-FIVE GOLD MEDALS AND A TEN-GUINEA CHALLENGE CUP. Bapp's 21s. Amateup's Collection of Daffodils contains 6 Bulbs each of 26 high class Daffodils, all beautiful. Bapp's 21s. "Woodland" Collection of Daffodils contains 500 strong Bulbs in 20 fine showy varieties, suitable for naturalising in Grass, Shrubberies, etc. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF BULBS For Indoors and Outdoors. Bapp's 21s. ■■ Greenhouse" Collection contains 300 Spring-flowering Bulbs of finest Quality. Bapp's 21s. " Flower Gapden Collection contains 600 Spring and Summer-flower- ing Bulbs, all decorative. Bapp's 21 s. " Woodland " Collection contains 800 Bulbs, suitable to naturaliie in Woodlands, Orchards, Wild Gardens, etc. For mil partimlaraof the above and other Collectiona gee Bart's Bulb Catalogue. BARR & SONS, "I'^^Stf'^.,, LONDON. Nurseries— SUKBITON, Surrey. Visitors invited. Sweet Pea Specialists. Every gardener, amateur or profesBional, knows that we are the world's greatest growers of Choice Sweet Peas. No other grower and retaUer has specialised as we have done with this popular flower. We have devoted many years to their cultivation, and have produced a greater variety of new and beautiful self coloiu's than any other firm. The enor- mous business we now do has been created by the public recognition of our efforts on behalf of Sweet Pea culture. Every year we grow over 10 acres for Seed, producing the best seed grown — seed that will give you brighter colour, larger flowers, and longer stems than any other seed offered for sale. Eckford's Giaat Sweet Peas Are only genuine WHEN PURCHASED FROM WEM. WE DO NOT SUPPLY THE TRADE. Villa (B) Collection. 24 splendid varieties, suitable for Exhibition, 50 seeds of each, 5/6. Villa (C) Collection. 12 splendid varieties, suitable for Exhibition, 50 seeds of each. 2/9. A Booklet, giving full particulars on the Culture of Sweet Peas, given with every Order. If you have never tried Eckford's Culinary Peas, do so this year ; they are heavy croppers and the flavour is right. .AJl Carefully Hand-Floked Pedigree Seeds. Write to us for our Fall Descriptive Priced Catalogue of Sweet Peas, Vegetable and all Seeds for the Garden, with Coloured Illustrations. Post Free. UrMDV rPl^rriDn The sweet Pea specialist HtWKY tUM-UliU, wEM. SHROPSHIRE. F.R.H.S., THE "COUNTRY LIFE" LIBRARY. GARDENING MADE EASY. Edited by E> T; COOK (Esnon or "Thb Oabden"). n Simple handbook to tOc Garden. PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICES OF "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, AND BY GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 3-12, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. NO MORE BACKACHE. WEEDICIDE HIGHLY CONCENTRATED. Destroys Grass and Weeds on Paths and Gravelled Spaces. OuartTin 2S. 6d. Post Free. Larger quantities at reduced Prices. Sole Manufacturers. Wm. COOPER & NEPHEWS, BERKHtMSTEO. s^ THE ROSE. JO AU tbe well-tried Varieties to offer. THE I^EOIPLB'S IFIjO'WEI?.. Novelties are carefully grown, and the successful ones included in our List. FRUIT TREES of all kinds to suit all Requlpements. FLOWERING SHRUBS AND TREES A GREAT SPECIALITY. We are Garden Specialists and shall be glad to receive your inquiries. Oup Catalogue HI. Post Free on Applloatlon. H. MERRYWEATHER & SONS, LIMITED, Dept. H., SOUTHWELL. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PA«K FIRST STEPS IN GARDENING - 7 CHAPTEE II. THE FIRST PLANTS, VEGETABLES, AND FRUITS TO CHOOSE 13 CHAPTER III. CLIMBING PLANTS - - 59 CHAPTER IV. MAKING A LAWN " " - , - " 64 CHAPTER V. THE ROSE GARDEN - 69 CHAPTER VI. THE GREENHOUSE - - - 84 CHAPTER VII. HARDY BULBOUS PLANTS - - - - - - - 145 CHAPTER VIII. SITE FOR A KITCHEN GARDEN - - • - 154 CHAPTER IX. THE beginner's FRUIT GARDEN ... - 183 INDEX 198 THESE TWO UTILITIES WILL ENSURE YOUR GARDENING MADE EASY. ^ s: ^. The Life and <>^CC^^**°** of the Plant ^^ v'^Woi'lcl. Producing FLOWERS, FOLIAGE, FRUITS and VEGETABLES In Abundance and Excellence. Every Tin, Bag and Seal must bear this Trade Mark, without which the Proprietors ■^P^ cannot guarantee either the quality^ or genuineness of the contents. O"^^^ ^LONDONqj ^1 \S^ ^°^^V <> .^ ^; .^^. ^' Ov>: s^^ .^^^ ^ »". THE BOOK FOR THE GARDEN LOVER Contain In^ContPlbutlons upon Gapden- by the foremost wplters of the day, Including Joupnallsts of note, and ppo- fesslonal and amateup gpowers of dlatlnotlon, experience Is placed at the service of the peadep In opder to make the ppaotice of gardening mple, easy, and successful. 278 pages well Illustrated, and bound In cloth. Price NINEPENCE net. Of all Seeds- men, or Post Fpee fpom the Publishers for that amount. CLAY & SON, Mamme Manufadwrers and Bone Crushers, STRATFORD, LONDON, E. GARDENING MADE EASY CHAPTER I. First Steps in Gardening. Thkbe is no more health-giving, profitable, and interesting pursuit than gardening. It brings one to the very lap of Nature, and once the joy is felt of attending to the ilowers or growing vegetables — never so wholesome and appetising aa when they come straight from the garden to the kitchen — a desire for increased knowledge becomes intense. It has been said that gardening books for the beginner are generally far too technical to be easily understood by the reader. This applies to all manuals for the beginner. It is difficult, without practical demonstration, to act as a complete guide. A hundred little operations must be left to the common- sense of the beginner, but it is usually in the first steps that failure occurs. Much depends, of course, upon individual tastes : one may dislike Mignonette but lo^e the Wallflower; another detest Leeks but enjoy Celery, and so on. It has been the object of the writers in the present book to give aa much detail as possible, and we would aak the beginner to study the information closely. " Hy- drangea paniculata grandiflora," if the book is opened at the page upon which this ii printed, may confound the novice, who is ^ghtened at so technical a term; but there is no other name for this beautiful and easily grown shrub. We may call it the Big Panicled Hydrangea, but if the would-be purchaser went to a nurseryman and asked for the Hydrangea under this name, he would probably be unable to ascertain the shirub that is wanted. The nurseryman, as a rule, tries to simplify the information given in the catalogue, but botanical language must be used to a certain extent. We should not think of calling the Daisy in this book Bollis perennis, but in some cases a high-sounding t»chnical nam* must h» used because the plant poB«ess»s no other. 8 GABDENING MADE EASY. Laying Out a Small Garden. It is impossible to do more than give general advice. A garden may be fifty feet by sixty feet or three acres, and the beginner, if he is really anxious to excel in gardening, baa his own ideas. The writer has in mind a garden of a little over two acres. The house is built away from the road, and in front of the house is the natural meadow, but planted with fruit treea to form a little orchard. Between the trees hundreds of Daffodils have been planted. By the side of the orchard a tennis-lawn hai been made. Immediately in front of the house there are three square beds filled with Boses, and under the windows runs a border filled with Rosemary and Lavender and PanaieB. By the side of the drive there are square beds, each filled with a distinct variety of Rose. The kitchen garden is behind the house. This is only one instance of a small garden, but probably another would-be gardener has a dislike to an orchard in front of the house. Walks and Lawn. — We will assume the ground to be dealt with is from fifty feet to sixty feet square, 'fiie first question to consider will be the walks, and a suitable width in this case will be four feet ; and, to save labour and trouble frr»m weeds in the future, there should be a foundation, of not less than six inches in depth, of broken bricks, clinkers, or stones in the bottom. As a rule, unless the subsoil is a stiff clay, there is no need to make provision for drainage. Six inches of rubble and three inches of good binding gravel will form a good dry path. There should be sufficient fall in the surface of the path to get rid of the water. If the walks are rolled occasionally after rain, and the stirface is dressed with a weed-killer annually in dry weather in March or April, there will be no trouble with weeds. The lawn in such a garden as this would not be large enough for tennis, but it might do for croquet if properly laid down and sown in April with good grass seed. In many places good turf is difficult to get, and the cost is heavy. A considerable saving will be made by sowing seeds, but the ground should be manured if necessary and perennial weeds destroyed. Make ,the lawn perfectly level, and the seeds, which should be obtained from a good source, must be sown thickly. Rake them in and roll down. The ground should be made firm before sowing, either by treading or rolling, and be perfectly level. After the seeds are sown, a light covering of very old manure, which has been passed through a screen or inch sieve, will be a very great help to the seeds in their germination, and also a protection from birds. A bushel of seeds will sow a quarter of an acre of ground, and for smaller or larger lawns the seeds may be sown in proportion to the size. The Bohdeh. — ^Wherever it is intended to have the border, the soil must be well prepared. It is always wise to thoroughly dig the soil, and manure it if it is at all poor. A good foundation to begin with will save much after labour and expense. Annual GARDENING MADE EASY. 9 flowers will give much pleasTire the first year, and bring colour and fragrance to the garden whilst the perennial plants — those that come up year after year — are becoming established. Late March and April are the best times for sowing the seed of annual flowers; and, late in May, when all fear of frost is over, the bedding plants may be put in, the Geraniums, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Night- scented Tobacco giving an abundance of flowers until the time of frost again comes round. The perennials may be planted in autumn and in March. Digging and FoRKiNa and Hoeing. — This is a necessary but simple process. The beginner is advised to buy a light steel spade and fork, as these render the labour easier. The tool blade or tines should be new and long, to move the soil as deep as possible — say, to a depth of twelve inches. The soil should be trenched, and on another page a description of what is meant by trenching will be found. Forking means moving the soil a few inches in depth, such as among growing crops. " Forking up," as the gardener calls it, is very helpful to the crops, provided that the roots are not injured in any way. The soil is rendered porous, and receives moisture from the air more readily. Hoeing — that is, using an implement called a hoe' — is a most necessary operation. The chief object of it is to destroy weeds, but it is of importance because it loosens the surface of the soil and lets in light and air to the roots. During spring and summer the hoe should be in constant use. The Value of Manuhes. — If the soil is very poor, it is needful to manure it liberally. Plants must be fed if they are to give either an abundance of flowers or a profitable crop. All the manures used, no matter whether they be of animal or vegetable (such as rotten leaves) or mineral (such as guano, nitrate of soda, Kainit, salt, etc.), must be easy to dissolve when brought into contact with the moisture of the air and earth. Thus, there are what are termed soluble manures — that is, those which soon or in a few months become dissolved. Insoluble manures are such as bones in an un- broken state; yet bones, broken up fine or steamed soft, become first-rate plant food. In lapng out the garden, and its immediate after management, this question of manuring is of the first im- portance. If animal manure ia to be obtained, we prefer it to any artificial or chemical compound. When using the manure, it must be always half-decayed and moist at the time of applying it to the soil, and long strawy manures have little value. The best time to manure is in autumn and winter, and cm wet soU. Two wheel- barrow loads should go to a rod of ground ; but everything, of course, depends upon the quality of the soil. Chemical manures sihould be used at the rate of 6 lb. to the same area of ground. Chemical manures comprise phosphate made from softened bones, or the powder known as basic slag. Potash comes from Kainit and other salts dug from the earth. Nitrogen comes from nitrate of soda. Sulphate of ammonia ia obtained in the making of coal gaa at.d from other things. The best way to obtain these manures is B 10 GARDENING MADE EASY. to purchase each, one in a raw state from the merchant, and mix them to form a complete manur*. The proportioais should be as follows: — Phosphate, 4 lb. j Kainit, 2 lb.; and nitrate, 2 lb. Generally the rule is to mix the two firit only, and apply them when the soil is dug or forked over in th& winter, adding the nitrate after the crop ha* made some growth, and hoeing it in immediately. Lime may be given, at the rate of half a bushel per rod, to wet, 3Dur, or clogged soil, saving a manure dressing for the season. Soot is beneficial at any time, but must not be used immediately it is taken from the chimney. The Kitchen Garden. — It is in this quarter, more bo than even in the flower garden, that the soil must be dug, and the reader is referred to the chapter upon the " Soil» for the Klitchen Garden." The beginner will find how important it is to utiliie every spare foot of ground. Take the Scarlet Runner Bean, for example. This Lftay be sown to hide perhaps some unsightly object in the garden, as it posBesses much beauty of groiwth and flower as well as economic value. The Vegetable Marrow may be planted on some haap of soil that will not be wanted until the plants have ceased to bear. Perhaps a neglected gardea ha* been takea. The Neglected Garden. Begin to work cheerfully, for a neglected garden it not encour- aging. Cut down and bum all weeds, and root out nettles, which are a source of great trouble. There is nothing else to be done, however, but deep digging and getting out every fibre. Probably the fruit trees are a thicket of shoots. Cut up the tree thinnings into faggote, and stack them in a neat heap in one comer, where the wood in time will become dry and useful. Then mow the lawn as close as possible with a scythe, collect the grass and weeds, and bum them. Pull up all weeds in beds and borders, and treat them in the same way. Shrubs and trees may have got wildly over- grown, so cut them back, even to the extent of making them look for a brief period bare and unsightly. This work should be done in winter. The borders may now be dealt with, and proceed carefully, as in winter many a choice plant and bulb may be slumbering. Climbers on the house or trellises or on arbours should be cut back hard if they have got out of bounds, and only promising flowering shoots retained. The walks must be weeded and the beds and borders liberally manured, and it wijl probably be advisable to lift the plants and bulbs in the border and replant them, after having thoroughly trenched the soil. Replant the things taken up as soon as possible, and, where they are very large, divide them. Suppose, for instance, there is a clump of perennial Sunflowers, do not put it back whole, but split it into nice-sized piece*. These will soon spread; the plant, indeed, is better f(?r this Separation into several pieces. GARDENING MADE EAST. 11 The Fruit and Vegetable Gaeden, when it has been neglected, requires considerable patience to restore it to full fertility. The trees, as suggested above, should be hard pruned — that is, cut back the shoot a foot or even more' — remove all dead wood, and thin out weakly shoots. There is no sense in having a tree crowded with useless growths. The wounds made by this severe treatment should be painted over with warm Stockholm tar, on which, whilst wet, a little dry soil can be thrown to give it a bark-like colour. The ■hoota on Gooseberriea, Currants, and Raspberries must be well thinned out; and if the Goo«eberries have become mossy or green, duat them freely, whilst damp, with freshly slaked lime, as this will in time cleanse the stems. Strawberry beds will need cleaning, taking out runners and weeds, so that the roots can obtain the necessary light and air. This may be done by chopping down the sides of the rows with a sharp spade, then hoeing, or lightly poking out all runners and weeds between, clearing the refuse away, and dressing the ground with manure spread evenly between the rows and allowed to wash in. Give the vegetable ground a liberal dressing of manure or decayed garden refuse, or such manure as can be obtained. In some cases dig it deeply in, and in others, where practicable, it should be trenched in, the latter course being especially desirable where Peas and Potatoes are to be grown. Naturally this is laborious work, but it will pay to get a good labourer to do it well, as excellent crops should follow such treatment. Speing in the Gaeden. — The garden will now begin to wear a, changed aspect. As the spring advances, make soTvings or plantings of Peas, Beans, Parsnips, Onions, Beet, Winter Greens, Cauli- flower, Potatoes, and other vegetables; but not necessarily all in one day or even in one week : it is work that may be extended over a couple of months, and, of course, much will depend upon the size of the garden. If the edges in the kitchen garden are of tile or brick, free the joints from weeds and stop them up with cement — unless, of course, it is possible to get any pretty flowers (Erinus, Stonecrop, Saxifrage, and such like) to grow in the niches. When the edging is of Box, it will probably need much trimming and weeds pulled out from amongst it. Trim it with a sharp hand- shears, and burn the trimmings. Weedy Paths must be contended with in the spring, for the seeds in the gravel will now make a show as seedlings, and a drastic course of chemicals is needful to effect a difference. ■ Give the gravel a liberal watering with weed-killer, and this application should keep the paths clean for a year at least. When that is done, top-dress them with a moderate thickness of fresh fine gravel, well raking and rolling it where a weed-killer ia not used. Salt can also be sprinkled over the paths, but its effect is far less permanent. Another way is to fork up the gravel, well loosen it, and bring all weeds to the surface. Allow them to remain until they are dried up and dead, then raike them off; but this metthod has only a 12 GABDBHINO UADi: EAST. temporary cleansing effect. Nothing is so satisfactory as a dressing of wcied-killer. This destructive liquid can be purchased at so much a gallon in iron drums or cans, and when some twenty gallons of water are added to a gallon of the chemical it can be applied with an ordinary rose water-pot kept for this purpose alone. The liquid must not touch grass or plant edgings, or any good clothing. Geass Lawns previously mown over rooighly with a scythe will, a week or two later, be ready for another mowing, this time with a proper lawn mower the knives of which are not set too low down. Later on, as the young grass grows, the setting can be closer down, and after a few weeks of regular mowing the grass will become short and in excellent condition. Still, as the lawn will have been some time unmown, an occasional rolling with a heavy roller, especially when the weather is moist, will do much good. The Gbeenhouses and Frames that have remained long in a state of neglect should be well washed, glass and putty mended, and then receive two coats of paint. In the case of houses, the boilers and pipes should be seen to and tested.. Draw oxit water that is in the pipes, wash out the sediment, and then refill. Make up and light a fire to see that the pipes are in proper order. It is only necessary then to fill the house with plants, and frost can be readily excluded. Frames may be set up on hotbeds, soil put on, and tender things ■own, such as Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows, and Tomatoes, also many tender annual flowers or hardy plants, or Lettuces, Radishes, and so forth, as well as cuttings of greenhouse and bedding plants. Failing hotbeds, the frames may be partly sunk on warm borders so as to bring the soil within six inches of the glass, and then be sown with hardy vegetable and flower seeds. Whilst it has been advised to bum weeds and certain tree or bush refuse generally, to destroy seeds and insects, much vegetable matter that does not contain seeds may be accumulated into a heap, mixed with manure gathered from the roads, allowed to remain for a month or two, and then turned out, well mixed, and a good ground dressing is provided. This should be done in a secluded or quite private part of the garden. CHAPTER II. The First Plants, Vegetables, and Fruits to Choose. As we have already mentioned, it is to be hoped the beginner will study thoroughly each chapter of this book — at least, llie chapter in which he is most interested. All the plants mentioned in the following lists are described at greater length in other parts of the book, where also cultural details are given. In each case the selections are very restricted. When these have been chosen and enjoyed in their flowering time, others may be selected from the general list. Nothing has been mentioned that cannot be grown in an ordinary garden. Hakdy Annual Flowees. — Sweet Pea, Cornflower, the Tree Mallow (Lavatera trimeatris), Marigold (the variety known as Orange King), Mignonette, Night-scented Stock (for its sweet fragrance in the evening), Nasiturtium, Virginian Stock, Shirley Poppy, Sun- flower, Extinguisher Flower {Eschscholtzia), Love-in-a-Mist {Nigdla). Annual Climbers (4). — Convolvulus, Nasturtium, Japanese Hop, Canary Creeper (Tropmolum canariense). Half-Haedy Annuals. — China Aster, Celosias and Cockscombs, Petunia, Phlox, Salpiglossis, Tobacco, Verbenas, Zinnia, Nemesia Btrumosa Suttoni, Portulaca, Chinese Pink. Biennials (seed to be sown in late May out of doors, the seed- lings planted out in autumn, and flowers will appear the following year). — Snapdragon {Antirrhinum), Canterbury Bells, Evening Primrose, Foxgloves, Stocks, and Wallflowers. Climbing Plants (except Roses, for which see special chapter). — Virginian Creeper (Muralis is the best sort to atta-ch itself to the wall of a house or outhouse), Dutchman's Pipe {Aristolochia Sipho), Winter Sweet {Chimonanthus ; flowers in winter), Clematis, Fire Thoom (Cratcegus Pyracantha). Against the wall of a house — Honeysuckles, Ivy, Jasmine, Passion Flower, White Everlasting Pea, Japanese Vine or the common Sweetwater Vine, Wistaria. Plants for the Summer Garden (tender — i.e., not hardy — and only suitable for the summer months). — Blue Marguerite {Agathcea ecelestis), Tuberous Begonia, Heliotrope, Calceolaria, Canna, the Dahlia (the roots must be lifted when the frost has destroyed the flowers, the soil picked out from amongst the tubers, and stored 14 OABDENIMt) UAOI EASY. for the winter in a dry cellar or outhouse where they are safe from froait), Fuchsia, Lobelia, Geranium, Salvia patens (a beautiful blue flower). Habdt Border Flowers. — Anemone japonica (the Japan Wind- flower), Michaelmas Daisy, Columbine, Aubrietia, Auricula, Cam- panula, Carnation, Pink, outdoor Chrysanthemums (plant in May; very beautiful in auttimn), Moon Daisy, Larkspur (Delphinium), Doronicum, Erigeron speciosus guperbus, Gypsophila paniculata, perennial Sunflower (Helianthus), Christmas Bose, Hollyhock, Lily of the Valley, Lupine, Lychnis, Bee Balm (Monarda didyma), Forget-me-not, Paeony, Pansy, Pentstemon, Phlox, Primroses, Solomon'a Seal, the Pyrethrum, Ranunculus, Spiderwort (Trades- cantia virgimca), Sweet-william, Ttollius, Veronica. BuiiBS. — Anemone, Cape Hyacinth (Myaeinttms candicans), Chionodoxa, Crocus, Daffodil, Fritillary, Snowdrop, Gladiolus, Day Lily, Hyacinth, Lily, Montbretia, Muscari (Grape Hyacinth), Kan- unculus, Scilla, Bluebells, Tulip, Tritileia uniflora. Roses. — Selections will be found in the chapter upon Roses. Greenhouse Flowers. — Agapanthua (African Lily), Balsam, Begonia, Bouvardia, Calceolaria, Camellia, Canna, Coronilla glauca, Persian Cyclamen, Fuchsia, Heliotrope, Himantophyllum, Marguerite, Geranium, Petunia, Chinese Primula, Azalea, Salvia, Verbena, Heath (choose Hyemalis). Bulbs tor Greenhouse. — Hippeastrum (Amaryllis), Crinum Moorei, Freesia, Gladiolus Colvillei The Bride, Hyacinth, Lach- enalia, Lily, Daffodil, Tuberose, Tulip, Scarborough Lily (Vallota purpurea). Climbing Plants for the Greenhouse. — Asparagus plumoaus. Clematis indivisa, Jasminum grandiflorum, Lapageria, Passion Flower, Plumbago capensis, Solanum jaaminoides, Rhyncospermum jasminoides. Hardy Ferns (for shady places). — HartVtongue, Male Fern, Hard Fern (Blechnum Spicant), Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis). Common Polypody, Shield Fern (Polystichum). Ferns for Greenhouse. — Maidenhair, Asplenium bulhiferum, Cyrtomium falcatum, Davallia canariensis (Hare's-foot), Onychium japonicum, Pteris cretica and P. c. albo-lineata, P. serrulata and B. cristata, P. tremula, Nephrodium moUe, Polypodium aureum. Ferns for Baskets. — Adiantum caudatum, Davallia bullata, Goniophlebium subauriculatum, Nephrolepis, Gymnogramma schi- zophyUa gloriosa. Shrubs for the Seaside and Small Garden (useful where the garden is close to the sea). — Berberis, Fuchsia, Thorn, Euonymus japonicus. Spindle Tree {Euonymus europceus). Sea Bucktho(m (Hippophce), Holly, Sweet Bay, Mountain Ash, Ribes aureum and R. sanguinea (Flowering Currants), Furze, Laurestinus, Guelder Rose. The Fuchsia is not very hardy. Shrubs for Town Gardens. — Aucuba, Box, Laurel (and the Por- tugal Laurel), Euonymus japonicus. Bush Ivy, Oval-leaved Privet. GARDENING MADE EAST. 15 Flowering Shrubs oh Small Trees for all Gardens. — Pyrus floribunda, Almond, Forsythia, Syrian Mallow (Hibiscus), Labur- num, Lilac, Mock Orange, Mountain Ash, Sumach, Flowering Currants, Weigela, Guelder Rose. Shrubs for Planting in the Shade of Trees. — Spurge Laurel (Daphne Laureola), Gaultheria Shallon, Rose of Sharon (Hypericum calycinum), Snowberry (Symphoricarpus), Rhododendron ponticum. Periwinkle (Vinca). Plants for Hedges. — Holly, Yew, Privet, Box, Whitethorn. The Holly is the best. A Few Good Vegetables for the Small Garden. — Runner Bean, Potato (Up-to-Date), Broccoli (Maincrop), Crimson Ball Beet, Celery (Solid White), Lettuce (Paris Cos), Bedfordshire Onion, Peas (see list in chapter on Vegetables), Long-standing Spinach, Early Ulm Savoy, Snowball Turnip. But, as already mentioned, everything depends upon the taste of the owner of the garden. Fruits for Small Gardens. — Dessert Pears (July-August) — Beurre Giffard, Souvenir du Congres; (October-November) — Triomphe de Venne, Louise Bonne, Duroudeau, Emile d'Heyst, Beurre Clairgeau, Belle Julie, Doyenne du Cornice. Dessert Apples (July-August) — Mr. Gladstone, Devonshire Quar- renden, Sugarloaf Pippin; (September-October) — Kerry Pippin, Yellow Ingestre, Worcester Pearmain ; (November-December) — • Allington Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, King of the Pippins, Rots Nonpareil; (after Christmas) — Adam's Pearmain, Egremont Russet, and Sturmer Pippin. Cooking Apples (August^September) — White Transparent, Duchess of Oldenburgh, Cellini Pippin; (October) — Lord Gros- venor. Potts' Seedling, Grenadier, Stirling Castle; (November- December) — Lord Derby, Bismarck, Warner's King; (January) — Lane's Prince Albert; (very late) — Bramley's Seedling, Newton Wonder, and Alfriston. Plums. — River's Eajly Prolific, River's Blue Prolific, River's Czar, Denniston't Gage, Belgian Purple, Victoria, Jefferson's Gage, Smith's Purple, Early Transparent Gage, Pond's Seedling, Mon- arch, Bryanston Gage; for wall use — Old Green Gage, Czar, Bel- gian Purple, Victoria, Jefferson's Gage, Early Transparent Gage, Bryanston Gage. Gooseberries. — Whitesmith, Yellow Champagne, Industry, Lan- cashire Lad, and Warrington. Eed Currants. — New Dutch and Scotch. Black Currants. — Baldwins. Baspberries. — Superlative. Strawberries. — Vicomtesse H. de Thury (early), Trollope's Vio toria. President, Royal Sovereign (eaxly), Dumbarton Cattle, and Eleanor (to fruit late). Shrubs and Flowers for Window Boxes. The owner of the small garden will probably turn his attention to the window hoxet, and a few simple rules are aa foUowi: — The 16 GARDENING MADE EASY. box should be raised about half an inch from the ledge, to allow the superfluous water to escape. Make holes in the bottom of the box, and put in a layer of crocks (broken bits of pots), then some rough, fibrous stuff, such as is obtained from the first spit of turf, and then fill up with good soil, such as one would put Geraniums in — say, two parts loam, one part of leaf-mould, and a dash of silver sand to keep the soil from becoming stiff and hard for the roots. Plant firmly, and for summer the Pelargonium called Mme. Crousse is as pretty as any; the shoots will fall down over the front of the box, and show the pure rose fiowers to perfection. A selection may be made from Geraniums, Heliotrope, White Marguerite, Calceolarias, Petunias, Tuberous Begonias, and, in winter, little planta of Euonymus japonicus or Skimmia look well. A charming use to put the box to is for bulbs, especially the beautiful little early-flowering Irises, I. reticulata (the Netted Iris), I. Bakeriana, and I. Dan- fordise, a yellow kind flowering well. Then there are Daffodils, Crocuses, Hyacinths, and Tulips. After they have flowered they can be tbrown out or, in the case of the Irises, left in the box. The writer finds a pinch of Clay's Fertiliser most helpful to the plants in summer. It must be used strictly to the directions, as it is a powerful stimulant, and given in excess does more harm than good. When the weather is very hot, examine the soil in the box fre- quently. If it is very dry give plenty of water, but all waterings should be thorough Great harm is done by merely moistening the surface of the soil. This means that the roots are attracted to the top, and then they suffer. Window and Room Flowepsi Much enjoyment may be derived from growing plants in windows and in rooms, and where there is no garden this is the only way of giving a little floial sunshine to the home. The plants that may be grown entirely in a room are few in number, but where there is a greenhouse, or even a " conservatory," attached to the house, a greater variety may be obtained. As a rule, the potting, when it is reqtiired by the plant, must be done by the local nursery- man ; but it is in properly attending to the wants of the plants that success is achieved. Watering always seems to be a stumbling-block to the amateur gardener. The soil is either too wet or too dry. The best way to ascertain whether a plant requires water or not is to tap the pot. If the sound given out is clear, then water is re- quired ; if not, it is better to give no water at all. When water is given, let it be with no niggardly hand. Give plenty, so that the lowest roots feel the benefit of it. Always avoid draughts. When the room windows are open, place the plants La a position in which they are as far as possible away from cold currents of air. The plants that will succeed in a room without the help of a greenhouse are few in number. Of foliage plants, the first is the Parlour Palm (Aspidistra lurida). It will even increase GARDENING MADE EAST. 17 if taken reasonable care of, the chief points being to give water when moisture is required and to sponge the leaves carefully, a necessary operation in the neighbourhood of large towns. Soot and dirt clog the pores, so to speak, of the leaves, and ill-health is the inevitable result. Certain Ferns are quite a success in a room, and the selection should be: Pteris cretica, P. c. albo-lineata, Ony- chium japonicum, Cyrtomium falcatum, Asplenium bulbiferum; and delightful basket plants are the beautiful blue Campanula isophylla, its white variety called alba, the Creeping Jenny; and Harrison's Musk. Hyacinths may be grown in glasses. Another very pretty flower to grow is the Chinese Sacred or Good Luck Lily. The Sacred Lily may be grown in a bowl filled about half-full of small stones, the bulb placed firmly in the centre, and the stooie* heaped around it until about three-quarters of the foundation is covered. Then fill up with water, and aE this evaporates more must be added. The India-rubber Plant is generally a success in a room if the leaves are carefully sponged, but the sponging must be done in such a way that the margins of the leaves are not bruised. Gardening in Towns. Here ia the history of a garden in the suburbs of London (Thames Valley), about three miles from the Marble Arch. The owner of this garden was much occupied with his oflS.cial pursuits, and many evenings went by when little work was possible : — " My garden is simply a small plot fresh from the builder's hands. The builder had busied himself in eloping with the rich gravel subsoil and substituting refuse of a varied kind. The ground was taken possession of in September, trenched, good soil substi- tuted for bad, levelled, and, before the autumn had far advanced, planted with a few things known to prove impervious to the vicissitudes of suburban life. I have pursued the healthy pastime of amateur gardening for many years, and Hved once in serener climes, but was at first overcome by this spectacle of builder's rubbish and filching of good soil. I noticed that many good garden plants seemed to thrive in the district. In a garden near, perennial Sunflowers shone with a wealth of golden blossom, the Starworts tossed their cool-coloured flowers in the autumn wind, and the Sweet Peas still carried a few fragrant blossoms. So, the foundation having been made, plants were put in — too soon, un- fortunately — as it afterwards happened (no fault of the plants) that the borders sank, and I had perforce to remake and then relift everything. All the things named have succeeded beyond my moderate expectations. The forecourt garden (in dense shade, the house being placed almost direct north and south) was laid down with turf, and a narrow border made all round, with a Yew hedge against the boundary fence, and for trees, Silver Birch (a beautiful tree, which is a success in the lig^t soil of the neighbourhood), 18 GAliDENINa MADE EAST. Thorn, Rose Acacia (Robinia hispida), and a large green-leaved Holly. In the small border skirting the house are planted the shadfr-loving Spanish Scilla, Day Lilies, Crocuses, and Snowdrops- all a success; but the Winter Aconites are always poor. Their puny little yellow flowers would scarcely cover a small button, so the Eranthis will in the future go on the black-list. For climbers, Ampelopsis Veitchi muralis. Rose W. A. Richardson (but this being placed on the sunny side of the house the flowers get bleached by the hot sun beating against the wall, and lose their rich cut- apricot-like tint), Gloire de Dijon (a never-disappointing Rose), Alister Stella Gray (a perfect vision of exquisite orange buds and whitish expanded flowers), Passion Flower, Honeysuckles; and in the border the fragrant Lavender and Rosemary, two shrubs so picturesque and interesting in colour that I wish amateur gardeners would grow them more. The common Lavender should never be omitted from the garden, whether small or large. My bushes are in a little hot border, upon which the sun shines fiercely, and the soil is light. Here this fragrant blue-flowered bush delights to grow, spreading out into a soft silvery group, and giving quite a handful of flowers in the autumn for the house. It should be gathered when the buds are about half-open, not waiting until they expand. It is pleasant to sea a China Rose thrusting its flowery shoots into the Lavender bush : it is a happy flower marriage. In the same warm light border revels the Rosemary, -a shrub filled with fragrance and delighting in sunshine. Borders run round the three sides of the back garden, which faces almost due south — a favourable and pleasant position. Grass occupies the centre, a grateful and refreshing setting to the flower masses encircling it; and under the pantry window is a narrow border, if it can be bo called, of light soil; the position is in full sun. Here revel many things — the beautiful little early Irises, I. alata and others, and the early-flowering coloured Gladioli are quite at home. I have never seen the bulbs happier, even in the south of England ; and one year Crinum Moorei flowered superbly. Of course, Crocuses, Scillas, the splendid Gesner Tulips, and Daffodils are a success. When Tulipa gesneriana is fully open in the blazing sunshine, this is, in truth, a place of colour. Against the wall Roses are planted — Gloire de Dijon, Alister Stella Gray, and Mme. Berard Roses, with a plant also of Choisya temata and Passion Flower Constance Elliott. The left-hand border, looking down the garden, is filled with many things — annuals, such as Sweet Peas and Mignonette, Tufted Pansies, Day Lilies, Carnations, Pinks, and other homely English flowers, the majority of which are quite well known. How well Carnations succeed ! The old crimson Clove gave handfuls of bloom ; but even better was Uriah Pike (what a name!), a vigorous variety, with firm, tall stems and large crimson-coloured fragrant flowers. This sort should be noted by all town gardeners. The old white-fringed Pink was very beautiful too. In this left-hand border plants flourish amazingly; even Roses, particularly the Tea-scented Edith QABDENIN6 HADE EASt. 19 Grifford, the beautiful Hybrid Tea, Viscountess Folkeatone, Mme. Charles, and the lovely Alfred Carriere, which has large, loosely formed, pure white flowers filled with sweet scent. Against the fence the winter-flowering Jasminum nudiflorum is very beautiful throughout a mild winter. It is covered over with blossom, so rich in colour and fragrant; the green leafless shoots are crowded with buds in winter, and these, when cut for the house, open perfectly in water. A tall vase with Jasminum nudiflorum shoots is very pretty and refreshing in winter. No climber flowering in winter is more valuable in the town garden than this; it is impervious to Boot and dirt generally. The border at the lower end of the garden is in the shade of a row of Poplars and tall houses near. Ivies cover the fence with a dense covering, and in the border itself the Day Lilies flourish, whilst last summer the crimson Phlox Etna flowered well. Scilla campanulata (the Spanish Scilla) increases, and Polyanthuses, Tuberous Begonias, and Irises are at home too. The German or Mag Iris is one of the most important of town garden flowers. True, its flowering time is not of long duration, but the silvery-toned sword-like leaves are always pleasant to see, and there is great variety of flower colouring. The plants succeed even in the shade, and may be put in during the spring or in the autumn, but perhaps the best time is immediately after flowering. There is something satisfying in colonies of German Irises, especially the blue varieties Atropurpurea, Purple King, or the newer Black Prince. Where space admits, a garden of summer Irises may be made, but in the ordinary border may be grown in large clumps the best of the group, beginning in May with the old blue German. This is quickly followed by the white-grey Iris of Florence. My favourites are Mme. Chereau, white, feathered with lavender; Queen of May, rose and lilac ; Pallida dalmatrica, a tall kind with beautiful pale blue flowers; Victorine, rich purple and white; and the ordinary Blue Flag, so familiar in English gardens. The German Flag will grow even upon a London railway bank, but is worth a layer of manure beneath the roots (not in contact with them) at planting time. The border by the gravel path is margined with stone, which is now almost covered with Stonecrops, Saxifrages, and Creeping Jenny ; whilst near the drawing-room window, in a border running to the steps, English and Spanish Irises are planted alter- nately. Nothing in the whole range of bulbous plants gives more pleasure than the beautiful colouring of these two groups. The pure colours of the Spanish Iris are irresistible, and if my garden were larger, I should form colonies of them, in amongst shrubs, anywhere, to get the full value of their exquisite shades. The bulbs are so cheap that one might use them as potatoes and save household expenses. The English Iris blooms about a fortnight later, and has flowers in which the segments are broader and flatter than those of the Spanish Iris. " General Hints. — A few general hints that I have found produce good results in town gardening may be given. During 20 OABSSKING MADE EASt. warm summer evenings, after a hot day, syringe the plants gently. This is very refreshing and helpful. Stir the soil occasionally to prevent ' caking ' of the surface. This aurf ace-stirring lata in light and air to the roots. When watering do so thoroughly. Never dash the hose upon anything and everything. Cut the flowers freely, especially of such things as annuals, which quickly collapse when seed-pods are allowed to form, some more so than others. Poppies and Sweet Peas are of brief duration when called upon to bear a double burden. Of course, watch for slugs and snails. Never leave refuse about, and in the management of the lawn always keep the grass moderately short. It is a mistake to have a thorough lawn-cutting at stated intervals: long grass is difficult to cut, and the machine suffers. With regard to cats, I wish someone would give me a remedy. I dislike using firearms — ^my neighbours would grumble; but I confess I am inclined to practise the gentle art of ' potting.' " Keeping Plants in Winter. — When the garden boasts of a greenhouse, it is easy to accommodate the Pelargoniums, Dahlias, Tuberous Begonias, and other tender summer plants during the winter. When the first frost has spoiled their beauty, lift them, and, in the case of Geraniums, pot them up ; but Dahlias, after the soil has been removed from the tubers, may be stowed away under the stages. Corms of Tuberous Begonias should be stored in silver sand, and put away in a dry place. Dahlias and Begonias may be stored in a frost-proof cellar, and where there is no greenhouse, shake the soil from the roots of Geraniums or even Fuchsias, and hang the plants head downwards from a peg or a beam. Some will die, but many will live, and start away in the spring, when they can be potted. " My advice to town gardeners is that success only comes when the gardener tries to understand the flowers he professes to love. Failures are the result usually of a languid interest in a healthy and fascinating pastime to those who try to learn something them- selves of the flower world about them. I have written nothing about fruits and vegetables, but the remarks upon the cultivation of these in other parts of this book apply to the town garden. As s rule, however, there is no space for either." The Cht^ysanthemum. The Chrysanthemum is one of the moBt popular of plants, and among the first to be taken in hand by the beginner. There are now so many sorts that it is always wise to obtain the catalogue of a nurseryman who makes a strong point of Chrysanthemum- growing, and add the most recent acquisitions — a most necessary proceeding when the grower aspires to honours at a horticultural show. The Young Plants. — When the rooted cuttings axe received from the grower, place them in a rough frame in the greenhouse. OA.BDENINO MADB EAST. 11 Put the pots on cocoanut fibre refuse or sifted ashes, and give each one sufficient space for air to circulate freely around. The frame must be carefully ventilated at first, gradually giving more air to prevent a sickly growth. The young plants wiU soon be able to bear full exposure to the greenhouse without flagging. Then place them on the shelves of the greenhouse near the glass, to keep them sturdy and stocky. Spread a layer of cocoanut fibre on the shelves to stand the pots upon. The temperature of the greenhouse shoidd be kept at about 45°, or the plants will become drawn. As the days get warmer give more air. ^s soon as the young plants have filled their small pots with roots shift them into those of larger size. Repot plants rooted singly in " thumb " pots into those measuring three and a half inches across, and known as " large sixties." " Small sixties " — pots three inches in diameter — will suffice for the others, and on this account prepare them in good time. The pots and crocks should always be cleansed when dirty, and new pots soaked in clean water. The soil for the first repotting should be: Three parts fibrous loam, one part well-rotted manure, and the same of leaf-mould. Add to this half a part of coarse sand or road grit and a dusting of wood ashes or crushed charcoal. Pass the first three through a coarse sieve, and the loam must be pulled well to pieces. Put in several crocks, and over thsae the rougher part of the soil, and pot with great care. The roots must not be injured in any way. Then place the plants in the warmest comer of the green- house. In the South of England the plants may go out, choosing a sheltered corner, in the middle of April ; in the Midlands a week later ; and in the North the first week in May. Otheb Repottings. — By early April a second repotting will be needful, the plants in large sixties (3|-inch pots) into thirty-twos (6-inch pots), and those in small sixties (3-inch pots) into forty- eights (5-inch pots). The soil must be : fibrous loam four parts, one part leaf-mould, one part horse droppings, the two latter to be thor- oughly well decayed. To these add a third-part of coarse sand or road grit, a third of a part of crushed oyster shells, and a liberal sprinkling of bone-meal. The heap should be well mixed, turning it over repeatedly until quite satisfied that each of the ingredients is evenly distributed. Pull the larger pieces of turfy loam into pieces about the size of a walnut. Crock and pot as advised before, and 'make quite firm. Stand the plants when repotted in a some- what shady place, allowing them to remain there for a few days, or until they have recovered from the check. When the soil is just moist, no water will be needed by the repotted plants for a day or two, unless one is much drier than another. A few hours before repotting the plants, water them thoroughly. In the course of a few days the plants may be placed in the open in double rows, standing them on boards or a very thick layer of ashes or coke breeze. Place a small hazel stake in each pot to support the plant, the latter being lightly looped to the stake, and not tied tightly, as is so often the ease. They may be left thus until the final pottiag is necessary. 23 GARDENING MADE EAS1. Final Potting. — Chrysanthemums are usually placed in their flowering poi8 during the early summer, but this operation entirely depends upon the condition of individual plants. Thi» final potting is an important cultural detail, and to achieve success pay special attention to the preparation of the compost, which shoidd be: four parts good fibrous loam, one part leaf-mould,, half a part of well- decayed horse droppings, and a sixth of a part each of wood ashes or crushed charcoal and crushed oyster shells. A free sprinkling each of some good concentrated manure, such as Clay's, and a similar quantity of quarter-inch bones, will promote vigorous growth; but, as the plants are to remain in these pots for five or six months at least, a lasting compost is, of course, esaentiaJ. The compost must be well mixed. Plant* in 6-inch pots should go into those nine or ten inches across, those in 5-inch into pot« eight or nine inches across. Ctock carefully, and cover the crocks with a handful of half-inch bones or crushed oyster shells, and over these some of the rougher part of the soil. Make th» soil firm, and well ram it down the sides of the pots. During the summer the plants must be placed outdoors in a position facing south or west, standing them in rows running north and south, and upon boards, slates, or tiles, to keep out worms. Strain stout galvanised wires between uprights at either end of the rows, and support these by others about fifteen feet apart. Always be careful that the soil does not become dry, and take the plants in from the middle to end of September. Give an abundance of air under glass, pick off dead leaves, and on frosty nights there should be a little warmth in the pipes. The taking of the buds is a very intricate task, and the beginner is advised to obtain the help of some experienced grower. How TO Take Cuttings. — In raising plants to give an abund- ance of bloom, not to provide exhibition flowers, half a dozen or more cuttings may be inserted round the edge of a 3-inch pot, and placed in the greenhouse. Put a few crocks in the bottom of the pot. The soil should bs fibrous loam, well-decomposed leaf-mould, and coarse silver sand or road grit in equal proportions. Before these ingredients can be used, pass them through a sieve with a half-inch mesh, and mix them thoroughly afterwards. The residue — the fibrous tufta of loam and the coarser and lessi-decayed por- tions of the leaf-soil — should be taken cjire of, as this material will be wanted. When the soil is ready, place a small piece of crock over the hole in the bottom of the pot, and cover this with a layer of smaller pieces. Cover the crocks with a small layer of the rougher siftings of the compost referred to, filling in the soil after- wards to the rim of the pota, and giving the latter a sharp rap on the potting-bench to settle the soil rather firmly. A pinch of silver sand should be placed on the soil in the centre, and then with a cedar-wood pencil, or anything similar in shape, make a hole, carry- ing down the sand when making it, the hole to be of sufficient depth to bring th« joint of th« first l«af-stalk of 1>h« cutting on tih* surface GARDENING MADE EASY. 23 of the soil. The cutting is less likely to fail when the base of the catting rests upon the soil. Press the soil firmly at the haae of the cutting, at the same time giving pot and soil a gentle rap on the potting-bench. Label each cutting as it is finished, noting the date of the operation, which may afterwards prove instructive. Go through all the cuttings in this way until they are completed. When inserting the cuttings in pots, boxes, or on the greenhouse bench, keep them two inches apart, and three inches between the rows. Should the compost be fairly "moist, no water will be required for some hours. When it is applied, give a thorough soaking from a fine-rosed can. To raise plants quickly, and with little risk of failure, place a small frame in the greenhouse, and plunge the pots in cocoanut fibre refuse. The temperature should be between 40° and 45°, but never exceed the latter figure. Cuttings should be obtained from those which push their way through the soil at some distance from the old stem. These are of recent growth, and generally go ahead immediately they become rooted. The other form of cutting is produced close to the old stem, and often develops on the stem itcelf. Varieties rather shy in producing cuttings often have to be perpetuated by stem-cuttinga. This kind should not b» too long, a desirable length being between two and a half inches and three inches. When rooted, they may be treated in the same way ae thos« purchased tO' make a beginning. Hardy Perennial Flowers. If it were not for the hardy flower, or perennial, as it is generally called, there would be little beauty in the English garden. This beautiful group includes th« Larkspur, Sunflower, and a hundred other plants which come up year by year, and, for the most part, grow in charm with age. They are to the mixed border what the Geranium and Lobelia are to the flower-bed, and show clouds of colour from early summer until the Starwort or Michaelmas Daisy has ceased. to bloom. The best time to plant them is in spring, when new growth is beginning, and this is the best time also to increase them by what is known as root division. Take, for example, a clump of Perennial Larkspurs. In course of time tjiis clump becomes matted — that is, it has overgrown itself, and renewed life is given by lifting it, dividing it into fair-sized pieces, and transplanting to fresh ground. It is astoaiahing how vigorous these tufts will become in a year or two, and from one large clump, in time, quite a lot of plants may be obtained. We have also raised hardy plants from seed, but this is certainly a much slower way. A few of the most important plants for the small garden are the following: — A.do'is.-— Choos* A. vernalis, a rich yellow early spring flower, which is best on the little rock gard«n. A deep loamy soil is required. Sow seeds in summtr in frame filled with light soil. This is bttt«r than dividinf th« too\». 24 OARDENING MADE EASY. Peruvian Lilies. — This is the popular name for tlie beautiful Alstroemerias. They are not very hardy, and choose A. aurantiaca, and plant it in a very warm place, and in rich soil. Plant the roots, if the soil is light, 4 inches to 6 inches deep, and twice that depth when it is cold and heavy. Lift them once in four years, and replant. Belladonna Lily. — Where there is a greenhouse facing south, or a wall, a few bulbs of the Belladonna Lily will look very pretty at the base of it. The bulbs must be planted a foot deep in loamy soil. They bloom in autumn, a dark-coloured spike crowned with beauti- ful rose-coloured flowers appearing without the leaves. The Alkanet. — This is a lovely blue flower, and is not unlike the Borage, to which family, indeed, it belongs. Sow the seeds under glass in spring for summea" flowering, but in summer outdoors for flowering the following year. The spikes are nearly three feet in height, and wreathed in blue flowers. The plant appreciates a little shade. Dropmore variety is the best. Windflowers. — These are the beautiful Anemones. Choose the following for the small garden : — The Hepatica is the Anemone Hepatica, but usually called " Hepatica." It is the brilliant little plant which flowers without its leaves in February, and has flowers of many colourings. The Great Hepatica {A. angulosa) has large sky-blue flowers. The little rock garden is the place for these. They give much pleasure in the early year, flowering, as they do, with the Snowdrops and Crocuses. The exquisite blue Apennine Windflower {A. apennina), the variety Robinsoniana of our Wood Anemone, a large silvery-blue flower, the Pasque Flower (chalky soil on the rock garden), and the Snowdrop Anemone (A. sylvestris), which enjoys a rather shady place' and plenty of soU, its flowers sweetly scented and white, their shape suggesting the English name, are all worth grow- ing on the rock garden, or where there is a small orchard attached to the house, naturalising them in the grass, such as round the stems of the trees. The most important Windflower, however, for the small garden, no matter whether it is in the neighbourhood of a large town or in the country, is the Japanese Windflower (.Anemone japonica,), — Its roots may be divided in spring, as suggested in the introduction, but it is better to buy a few good clumpa, as they are not efxpemsive. Prepare the soil well beforehand, and work in some good decayed manure. Even in half shade the Japan Windflower will thrive, sending up its sterna to a height of five feet, and the mass of pearly-white flowers they support is remarkable. Honorine Jobert is t^e most popular variety, but the common sort, which has pinkish flowers, may be mixed with or kept apart, as is most desired. There axe several half-double varieties in gardens, but the beginner should commence with Honorine Jobert. The Poppy Windflower (^. cormaria) is the flower of many shades of colour which blooms in spring. It is sometimes seen in single form and sometimes in double; bvit no matter where it is dABSENINO HADE EASf. 25 placed it is very effective, tlie flowers frequently measuring over five inches across. We advise roots to be purchased, and wheoQ doing so include a few of the Star Anemone (.4. fulgens), a flower of a dazzling scarlet coloTir. There is a double scarlet form of it which we think is one of the brightest flowers in the garden. Columbines. — There are many kinds of Columbine or Aquilegia, but the majority are too difficult for the beginner to grow. We most delight in the beautiftd Spurred Columbines, which are also of many colours — saffron, apricot, light pink, pure yellow, dark blue, deep purple, and many other shades — and few flowers are more useful for cutting. The Columbine is strictly a perennial, but it is apt to die away after the second year. It should therefore be regarded as a biennial, sowing the seed aa soon as it is ripe in a pan of light soil. Place it in a cold frame, and when the seedlings are large enough to handle put them where they are to flower. The great point ia to purchase, from a good seed-house, the best spurred or hybrid strain. This is much prettier than the Columbine without the graceful elongation which gives so much finish to the flower. Thrift. — This is also called Sea Pink, and is the pretty rose- coloured flower which grows in plenty on the seashore. Its name is Armeria vulgaris, and it is used aa an edging to borders, much in the earn* way as the Whit* Pink. It is not difficult to pull the tufts apart to increase the stock, and do this in spring. Michaelmas Daisies. — Much improvement has been effected in these flower* of autumn, the Starworts as they are also called. Aster is their botanical name. They are very beautiful in the border, and the colours range from white to deepest purple. A good loamy soil gives the best reaults. Plant in spring, when growth is beginning, and it will be necessary to loop up the shoots a little to prevent them breaking or dragging on the ground. The following are good sorta (heights, times of flowering, and colours are given) : — Aoris, late August, light blue, 3 feet; Amellus besearabicus, September 1, deep blue, 2^ feet; Coordifoliui. elegsns, October 1, 5 feet, delicate lilac; diffusus horizontalis, October 1, 2^ feet, red and white; Ericoides, October 3, 3 feet, white; Novi Belgi Robert Parker, October 1, 6 feet, lavendar blue; N.B. Arcturus, late September, 4J feet, purple blue; Lrevigatus, early September, 2\ feet, bright pink; Novse Anglise ruben, October 3, 5^ feet, rich crimson; N.A. Wm. Bowman, October 1, 6 feet, rose-purple and gold. Aubrietias. — Beautiful spring flowers for rock gardens or borders, the colours chiefly shades of purple and rose; also for old or new walls. Cuttings strike very freely taken in spring frojtn the youBg growths and inserted in pans or pots filled with light soil. They will strike in a cold frame. A. Leichtlini, Purpurea grandiflora, Campelli, Souv. de W. Ingram, and Fire King are about the bss*. Auricula.— An excellent flower for the small garden, and much grown by amateiurs. There are several sections, distinguished by the colouring on the edge of the flower : hence we have green-edged, grey-edged, and white-edged. The growth of these ia very inter 26 GARDENING MADX EASY. ©sting, but considerable skill ia required tO' achieve success at exhibitions and to bring out all those fine points which are regarded with BO much favour by the fancier. The beginner is advised to first grow the ordinary border flowers, which are of many colours — purple, rose, yellow, and many intermediate shades — and their scent is delicicois. The writer grows them much in the same way as the Primrose, and is careful to suppress any poor coloTirings, so as to preserve as much as possible the decided and pretty shades. Sow the seeds in June in a pot or shallow pan filled with light Boil, and place in a cold frame. The seed soon germinates, and the seedlings may then be planted out, when they will readily develop. Bellflowers. — The Bellflower or Campanula family is full of good garden flowers. The Canterbury Bells belong to this group, and these must be treated as biennial — that is, seed sown one year will give plants for flowering the following, and then the plant dies. Canterbury Bells display a series of colours, and the white and the rose are very beautiful — delicate in shade and very free. The seed must be sown in June outdoors, and in the following autumn plant them where they are to flower. The following are for the border or rock garden, and are very beautiful plants : — C. carpatica (blue), alba (white), and pallida (light blue), dwarf, and very free; fragilis, pale blue, a warm comer in rock garden; glomerata dahurica, intense blue, 1^ feet high, border; grandis, tall, pale blue, border; latifolia macrantha, 5 feet, deep purple, border; persici- folia (Peach-leaved Bellflower), tall, a noble plant, the flowers are varied in colour — some white, others blue — and it is one of the finest of our perennials; pusilla, rock garden and border, 5 inches high, flowers soft blue, and white in the variety alba; pyramidalis (Chimney Bellflower), height 5-6 feet, border; there are two forms, one with white and the other with blue flowers, very handsome. Carnations, PicoteeSi and Pinks. This is a trio of useful plants which should be in every garden. The show and fancy Carnations require more attention than can well be spared them, unless they are toi be taken up as one of the few things to grow. A special manual would be advisable in this case, but the border Carnation is of great beauty, especially when only the finest varieties are selected. Surprising results come from sowing seed saved from the best sorts, such as Mr. J. Douglas, of Great Bookham, supplies. The flowers exhibit a great range of colourings, and come quite double for the most part, with little splitting of the calyx. A Carnation should have a strong stem, and the flowers be of good shape and colour — fragrant, and the growth vigorous. Such sorts make a good display in the garden in summer. April is the best month for sowing the seed, which should be sown in pots and pans filled with fine soil, and well drained. Sow thinly, just covering them with soil, and transfer the pan to a cold frame. Water gently with a can which GARDENING MADE EASY. 27 has a fine rose attached to it. When large enough to handle com- fortably, transfer them to a box, also filled with light soil, and thence to the open grooind. Early in September plant them out where they are to flower. Carnation seed cannot well be saved in this country, as the climate is too moist. Layering the Carnation and Picotee.— This must be done in the second week in July, not later, and is a very simple opera tion. First take out two inches of soil round the crown of the plant, and fill in with prepared soil, such as a Geranium would be potted in. Select the strong layers, remove a few of the lower leaves, and with a sharp knife malte an upright cut to go half-way through a joint to form a tongue. Peg this portion vei-y carefully in the soil with a strong hair pin, and leave the cut partly open Put more soil over the pegged-down part, and in a few weeks the layer will have rooted. Early in September separate the layer from the parent plant, and transfer to the place it is to flower in This is the best way to propagate the Carnation, and not by cut tings, or, as the gardener says, " pipings." tATEBDSrO THE CAENATION, Carnations enjoy a rich, well-prepared soil, loam for the most part, mixed with leaf-mould and well-rotted manure, and coarse silver sand to keep it open. Prepare the bed some time before — that is to say, the place the Carnations are to be planted in must be prepared some weeks previously, so that the manure may become well decayed. Carnations fail in hot soils : they like the composi- tion recommended, and strong fertilisers are a mistake. Mulching round the crowns in spring is helpful, and a dressing of soot in spring benefits the plants. There are no more charming flowers than Carnations and Picotees when the plants succeed. Always examine the soil before planting, in case there is any trace of wire- worm, which is more destructive to the Carnation than any plant 28 GABDEKDrQ MACK EAS?. in the garden. Late planting is fatal to success, and every effort must be made to get in the runners early in September. When the stem begins to grow quickly, stake them neatly. Vaeietbes. — We shall not give a list of the various sections of the show Carnations and Picotees, but simply those that are a success in the border, and these axe — George Macquay, large double white ; Miss Audrey Campbell, the best yellow ; Mephisto, crimson ; Nox, deep crimson ; Raby Caatle, rose ; Murillo, bright red ; Exile, deep rose ; Seagull, blush ; Cantab, crimson ; Ketton Rose, rose ; and the Old Clove. Uriah Pike, which is not unlike the last men- tioned, is better under glass than outdoors. The Pink. Good use should be' made of the white and other Finks. They are the pride of many a cottage garden, and grow strongly in ordinary garden soil. They form pretty edgings — drifts of white blossom, and the silvery grey of the foliage has a winter beauty. We still regard the old fringed White Pink as the sweetest of its race, but, of course, there are others, the most popular being Mrs. Sinkins, Albino, Her Majesty, Mrs. Lakin, and Snowflake. Mrs. Sinkins is more grown than any other,_ and is certainly very pretty. The flowers are very double, of the purest white, and filled with scent. Plant from pots at almost any time, but March and September are the two best months, and June is the month to strike cuttings or pipings. Cut the cutting just under a joint, remove the lower leaves, and put them thickly in bozes filled with a light soil. A feiw crocks should be placed in the bottom for drainage. Put a handlight over them, or stand them in a cold frame, and plant out in autumn in soil that has no wire- worm in it. The laced Pinks are not quite beginner's plants. Mountain Cornflower {Centaurea montana). — A very useful border plant, about two feet high, the flowers white, purple, rose, and other colours. It grows very freely. Snow in Summer {Cerastium tomentosum). — Appropriately named, the plant being hidden with white flowers; is easily increased by division of the roots, and makes a good subject for edging borders. Chrysanthemums.— The Chrysanthemum of the field, the white flower which takes the place of the Buttercup of earlier days, is C. Leucanthemum or Ox-eye Daisy, and many improved forms of it have been raised. There is a semi-double variety, pure white, and all the plants bloom with great freedom. One great use of these varieties of wild Chrysanthemum is their beauty in the border and also for cutting. Chrysanthemum maximum is one of the beat garden perennials. It makes quite a spreading bush, so to say, and grows almost anywhere, but repays for a good soil and sunny place. The flo^wers are very large, pure white, with yellow centre, and there are several varieties of it, all more or less beautiful. Maurice Priohard is perhaps as fine as any, and fim- briatum is also worthy of note. It is a plant for small as well as QARDENING HADE EASY. 29 A — old plant of Pink. E — a, slip; 6, justout-off straggling tip ol bark ; c, hair-like roots will come from thiBS© joints ; d, depth to plant the cutting; e, top growth. — slip taken off the old plant with some roots; f, point where detached from root-stock; g, adhering roots; h, roots that may be present or will push from joints of stem; i, depth to insert in the soil. D — a branchlet of Fink showing the piping proper; i, the piping (made by taking the shoot between the finger and thumb at the point I, and pulling it sharply out of its socket. Cut close under a bottom joint.). E — pipings inserted. F — cutting fiom relatively long growth ; o, callus and roote ; p, growths that may have pushed from buds below ground; g, growths springing from axils of the leaves. — a catting taken from base of stem ; s, callus and roots ; t, young growth pushing below ground, and that will root from joint of issue. H — piping proper ; v, caUus and roo>ts ; vi, stem of plant ; as, shoots pushing from axib of tlM lewviaa. 30 GARDENINa MADE EASY. large gardens. The Moon Daisy {C. uliginosum) flowers quite late in autumn. It is of extremely vigorous growth, so much so that it is better in the rougher, wilder parts of the garden, or in some place where it will not encroach on less vigorous things. Its flowers have a subdued beauty in the light of the moon, hence the name of Moon Daisy. Black Snakeroot {Cimidfuga racemosa). — A late flowering per- ennial well worth a place in the small garden. It is tall, and has a spike of feathery, creamy white flowers. Ordinary soil and position are suitable. The Noble Fumitory (Oorydalis noUlis). — A yellow-flowered per- ennial of great beauty. It grows best in rather poor soils. Larkspur {Delphiniums). — There are two groups of these — annual and perennial, but the last mentioned is the more important. The plajits grow several feet in height, and make a brave show of colour in summer when the sheafs of bloom reach perfection. There are many named sorts, and a good nurseryman's catalogue should be consulted for this information. The plants may be planted in autumn or in March, and there must be a space of at least two feet and a half between each, so as to allow of free de- velopment. One often sees a perennial Larkspur in a cottage garden, and never without a feeling of regret that so splendid a hardy plant is not made more use of. D. belladonna is well worth a place for the sake of its delightful sky-blue flowers, which are aa pure in colour as those of any we are acquainted with, but it must be kept under observation, as the slug has a special fond- ness for the juicy shoots. The Lyre Flower. — This is Bielytm spectabilis, and is so called from the resemblance of the flower to a lyre. It grows quite well outdoors in a warm comer where the soil is light, but must be as much sheltered as possible, as the flowers when exposed frequently get cut by frosts, as they appear so early in spring. It increases in beauty with age, and makes a sheaf of rosy bloom. American Cowslips (Sodecatheom) are not plants for the beginner's garden, and we should not advise their inclusion until the more vigorous things have been chosen. The Doronicum. — One of the noblest and earliest to flower of spring-blooming plants is the tall D. plantagmeum excelsum, which in early spring sends up a quantity of showy yellow flowers from a mat of light green foliage. It grows almost like a weed, and may be easily increased by dividing the crowns in autumn. The Eremurus. — We must mention this as it is a noble family, E. robustus sending up strong spikes to a height of five feet, and this should be the first to select. It is not wise for the beginner to attempt to increase the plants in any way. The secret of success is to protect them from cold, harsh winds and the morning sun. A sheltered south-west aspect should be chosen, and the big spikes are best seen when thrown into relief by evergreen shrubs. Prepare the place well, as once planted the Eremurus must not be disturbed. GARDENING MADE EASY. 31 Plant in autumn in rich and sandy loam, and mix with the loam peat, well decayed cow manure, and sharp silver sand. In planting, never bury the crown, but keep it a little above the surface of the soil, and in severe winters protect with cocoanut fibre refuse. A Henbane (Erigeron). — One of the most beautiful plants for the garden, as it blooms from early srummer until the autumn, is the Erigeron called E. speciosus superbus, the coloxrr of the flowers being an esquisite mauve shade. The leaves are almost hidden with the wealth of bloom. The Sea Hollies. — Borders of light soil will accommodate these. Visitors to the seaside will perhaps remember a silvery plant which sends its roots deep into the sand. This is the native Sea Holly, known as Eryngium maritimum, and is a study in silver-grey. A warm, well-drained soil and sunshine are needful for the Sea Hollies. They will increase by division of the roots in spring, and cuttings of the roots, — that is, bits of roots — will succeed in light soil, putting them in about 2 inchsB deep; they should each be 1| inches in length. If seedlings are desired, sow the seed aa soon as it is ripe in shallow pans of light soil. Place in a cold frame. Germination is slow, so wait patiently for the seedlings to appear. They will not be ready to plant out for a year. Plantain Lilies. — These are the Funkias, which seem to grow as well in a tub in a London garden as in the country. The Funkia, indeed, is a good town plant, and Sieboldi is the finest. Lancif olium is also a fine form. Divide the roots for increase in spring. It is very hard to kill the Funkia once it has become esta.blished. Gaillardias, — We have no great love personally for the Gaillardia, or Blanket Flower as it is called, but many like the large, showy flowers, which have a remarkable range of colour, from intense yellow to red. Give them a warm soil, sunny position, and keep a sharp look-out for slugs. GaiUardias are, unfoortunately, not very hardy, and dislike a wet soil. When it is found that they have died off during winter, sow seed thinly in a hotrbed or in a warm frame at the end of February. Prick off and put out the seedlings as they become ready, and plant out about the middle of May; they will flower quite well. The Gaillardia may also be treated as a biennial. Sow the Sieed in June outdoors, and the plants wiU be ready to go out in September. Goat Rue. — This is a very easily grown plant, and makes quite a bush. It should therefore have plenty of room, and will grow in ordinary soil. The flowers are purplish in the type, and pure white in the variety alba. Its name is Galega officinalis. Gentians. — Very beautiful mountain and lowland plants. The Gentianella (G. acaulis) is easily recognised by its large, tubular, intense blue flowers. It is quite happy in warm, gritty soils and sunny places. An excellent edging, and suitable for the rock garden. G. vema is a little gem of deepest blue. G. asclepiadea (the Willow Gentian) likes shade, moisture, and peat. It will grow to a 32 GABDENING MADE EASY. height of four feet. The crested Gentian is very popular, and will grow almost anywhere. The flowers are bright blue. Geranium. — The best hardy Geraniam to select is G. armenum, which is very vigorous in growth, and haa dark purple flowers. It is a good border plant, but put it in the rougher part, and G. platypetalum may also be included. GypsopMla paniculata. — This is the pretty feathery plant the flowering sprays of which are sold in the streets of large towns. The plant will grow quite two feet high, and makes a billowy mass of white bloom. It is happy almost anywhere. The Heleniums. — No garden should be without H. pumilum, a plant not more than fifteen inches high, and covered throughout the summer with yellow flowers. H. autumnale is six feet high, and is also yellow; and a plant much admired in autumn for its brown and bronzy-striped flowers is H. grandicephalum striatum. Sun Roses. — Where there is a dry, sunny bank in the garden, plant the Sun Roses (Helianthemum). The flowesrB show a wide range of colours, from white to dazzling crimson. Perennial Sunflowers- — There are many of these, and all grow rigorously, but our experience is that it is better to divide them once in three years, as the roots get quite matted and the flowering decreasea. They are taU for the most part, five to even eight feet, and all have yellow flowers. One of the best ii named H. G. Moon, a splendid variety with large yellow flowers. Deoapetalus, giganteus, multiflorus, and its double variety, Mis* Mellish, and mollis are the best. Decapetalus, H. G. Moon, and Miss Mellish are our favourites. They flower far into autumn. Heuchera sanguinea is a cheery little border plant, but varies from seed, so buy a plant that is known to produce the proper scarlet flowers. Some have prettily coloured leaves in winter, glabra being one of them. The Hawkweed {Hieracium aurantiacwm). — Almost a weedy plant, with a cluster of orange flowers on its stems, and hairy foliage. It will grow anywhere, aa well in a town as in a country garden. The Hollyhock. — A well-known garden plant, which must have a rich soil and plenty of water in dry weather if it is to prove a success. Many fine varieties are the result of sowing seed raised from the best flowers. The seed may be sown in autumn in a cold frame, or in February. If the formei time is chosen, the saedlings must be potted and kept in a cold frame during winter. Plant out in the following spring. If sown in February, sow in a shallow box or pan, which should be placed in a cold frame. Sow thinly, and then seedlings can be left in the box and planted straight away to the place they ar« to flower in. If it is desired to reproduce any special variety, such as the pretty Pink Beauty, strike cuttings in summer, and use a little bottom heat. Perhaps there is a hot bed available; then after putting the cuttings in pots, place them on this, so that they get the necessary bottom warmth. Unfortunately, the plants sometimes get diseased. Once CARDENIKG MADE EAST. 33 it is seen, remove tbe afiected leaf, and spray the plants three times at intervals of a week with Bordeaux mixture. The Candytufts. — These are the Iberises and the White Sem- pervirens, and G-arrexiana will make mantles of white on old walls and in borders. Such as Gibraltarica are not very hardy, and die on cold soils. All are easily raised from cuttings, which may be taken in autumn, dibbled into pots filled with light soil, and kept in a frame all the winter. Plant out in the following spring. Flame Flowers (Tritoma or Kniphofia). — These are also called Red-hot Poker Plants, and the most familiar is K. Uvaria, which should be the first one to buy, as it is very handsome and the most reasonable in price. The big flaming orange-scarlet spikes are splendid in the cool light of autumn days. The " Red-hot Pokers " must have a deep soil, not damp in winter. They are not very hardy, so plant deep and cover with dry leaves. Top-dress with well-decayed manure in spring, when new growth begins. When more plants are desired, divide the roots, either in autumn or in spring. Liatris spicata is a plant that must go in the border. It is two feet in height, and the flowers are purplish in colour. Lily of the Valley- — This is generally farced, but the beginner ceases to be so when he brings plants into flower out of their natural season by means of considerable artificial warmth. The Lily of the Valley is a native plant, and will grow in shade, but the reason why the flowers are few and poor is that the soil is generally full of the roots of neighbouring trees, and the Convallaria — ^to use the botanical name — ^is impoverished. The bed for the Lily of the Valley should be good loam, mixed with about a third part of leaf- mould and sufficient sharp silver sand to keep it open. Also mix with it some well-decayed leaf-mould. Plant the bed in September or October; put the crowns two inches apart each way, with their points just below the surface. Mulch with well-decayed manure in February or March, a« when growth begins liquid manure will be helpful. Remake the beds once in four years. Scarlet Lobelias.— Strikingly beautiful plants, autumn flowering. A good bed would be one of blue Pansies as a groundwork, and the Scarlet Lobelia planted here and there; the crimson against the blue is a dashing contrast. Queen Victoria and Firefly are the two most efiPective. Unfortunately, the plants are not always a success. Plant in spring. Dig out the place where the Lobelias are to go at least one foot deep, and mix weil-decayed manure with the soil. Make the soil firm, and water abundantly in summer. We advise the beginner, if he has some strong clumps and wishes to increase the stock, to divide in spring. The Lupines. — A bush of the Lupine (Ltipinus arboreus) is a pure delight in the garden. It will grow to a height of six feet in two years, and the yellow flowers are deliciously sweet. It must have a warm place and light soil, and after two years its life is generally over. The plant will reproduce itself from self-sown seed, but 34 GARDENING MADE EASY. seedlings vary in colour — so .much, so, that if a very fine form is noticed, it will be advisable, in order to perpetuate it, to make cuttings of the little shoots on the branches. Take tbese off with a slight heel attached— that is, a portion of the stem — and put into pot-s of light soil. They will soon strike in a cold frame. Lupinus pclyphyllus and its white variety are veory handsome, and continue in good condition for years. The spikes are tall, and blue in the type. Scarlet Lychnis. — This is L. chalcedonka. It is often to be seen in cottage gardens, and the flowers are dazzling scarlet in colour. The Loosestrife (Lythrum Salicaria). — This is a native plant, but there is a variety of it called rosea which is very bright in colour. It wiU grow in the border, but likes the side of a pond or stream. The Welsh Poppy (Meconopsis camhrica). — A beautiful Poppy, which seems happy almost anywhere — in the chinks of old walls and in the border. The colours of the many forms are very brilliant, and in the double varietiai the orange-scarlet shades are as rich as anything to be found amongst the Poppy Anemones. It is a biennial. Seed sown in the summer will give the plants for the following year's flowering. Daisies, Red and White. — These quaint little flowers should be more seen in the modem garden. They are charming aa edgings to flower beds and in the border. The red and white are the most useful, and there is the curious " Hem and Chicken " Daisy, also a variegated form, but the last mentioned is very tender. It is called aucubsefolia, and soon suffers from damp. Daisies increase qtiickly by dividing the roots after they are lifted in May. Plant them in a shady place outdoors for the summer. Water them occasionally, and in autumn transfer them to the places they are to beautify during spring. Marvel of Peru (Mirabilis jalapa). — A quaint, old-fashioned flower, bushy, and varied in colour. Sow the seeds under glass early in the year, much the same as one would a half-hardy annual, and plant out in late May. It is necessary to lift the roots before winter, and store them in sand in a place free from frost. Bee Balm. — One of the most easily grown and showiest of per- ennial plants is the Bee Balm or Oswego Tea (Monarda didyma), which seems to grow in any soil, and does not need full sun. Many books tell us to plant in moisture. It appreciates this, but we have seen it quite as fine with quite opposite conditions. Montbretias. — There are many of these, and a selection of the least expensive and showiest would bo Drap d'Or, apricot colour; Etoile de Feu, orange and yellow; Phare, crimson; Rayon d'Or, deep yellowish brown; Solfaterre, primrose; Tigridia, yellow; and Transcendant, vermillion and orange. M. Pottsi and Crocosmiae- flora are also well known. Do not clear away the decayed leaves in winter, as these are a protection to the crowns. Plant in a light, porous soil, and they increase so rapidly that it is necessary to divide the roots once in two years, but we have seen Montbretias GARDENING MADE EASY. 35 a success even in heavy ground in a suburban garden. Plant In spring. The flcwers axe produced in graceful spikes, which are useful for cutting. The Forget-me-nots. — There are many of these, the majority more useful for the rock garden than the border. Myosotis dissiti- flora is the common blue flower we love to see in spring. The seed is easily raised in the open ground. Sow in summer, and self-soTra seedlings will frequently spring up in abundance. The wood and marsh Forget-me-nots are charming flowers in moist places, as the names suggest. Evening Primroses. — The family name of this is Oenothera, and includes annual, biennial, and perennial plants. The annuals axe not important to the beginner. Of the biennials the best-known is the tall, pale yellow CE. Lamarckiana, which sends a sweet scent into the evening air. Sow the seed 1-1 6th of an inch deep in April, in a rather shady place. Thin out and transplant to the places they are to floTver in during the following autumn. The perennials are excellent border plants — CE. Youngi, fruticosa, macrocarpa, and speciosa being the most easily grown. Sow the seed in March in a frame, and plant out in June. Omphalodes verna is a little Forget-me-not-like flower of blue colour. Plant it at the foot of a hedge in the shade, and it will bloom freely quite early in the year. Pseonies. — A garden without Pseonies is hardly worthy of the name. There are two divisions — the tree and the herbaceous. The first is quite hardy, but the growths occasionally get cut by early frosts, and therefore a sheltered place is advisable, especially where they are free from north and east winds. A fairly light soil is best. It is called Tree Pajony because it assumes quite a tree-like form. The flowers are very beautiful and frequently of huge size, great flaunting petals that seem to shine in the early summer sun. The " her- baceous," unlike the tree, die down each year, and require a deep and rich soil. The bed for the plants must be dug out to a depth of quite three feet, and well enriched with decayed stalk manure. Plant early in September. Water freely when the weather is dry, and in early spring a mulch of manure over the surface of the soil around the plants will be very helpful. There are so many varieties, and new ones are so constantly being raised, that it will be well to consult the list of some good nurseryman, such as Kelway, who makes a speciality of these beautiful summer flowers. There are several handsome species which are, of course, single — Corallina, pink; Decora, crimson; Peregrina, also of a crimson hue; Tenui- folia, also crimson, but distinguished by quite grass-like leaves; and Wittmanniana, delicate yellow. The Pansy- — The beginner should only grow the tufted Pansies, or Violas, as they are also called. They are delightful plants, and almost certain to succeed. Take cuttings in July— put them in a bed of soil in a cool place in the garden, and they will have rooted by autumn, when plant them where they are to flower. 86 GARDENING MADE EAST. For spring flowers, strike the cuttings in autumn, and these should be put in a rough frame. In both cases use for soil loam and leaf- mould in equal parts, and a dash of sharp, silver sand. Mix it well together and then spread it over the places where the cuttings are to be inserted. An hour or so before putting in the cuttings, water with a can to which there is a fine rose. The cuttings must be of young growths, not pithy and hollow, two inches and a half long. Remove the two lower leaves, and cut straight across the lower joint with a sharp knife. If possible, get the cuttings with a few roots attached, such as may be obtained sometimes when they are taken from old shoots. Two inches apart in the rows, and the rows three inches apart, is the distance, make firm at the base, and when inserted water gently. The cuttings will root in about three weeks. Planting may be done in autumn and winter. When a display is required in very early spring, plant in early October. Plant firmly a foot apart, and incorporate half-decayed manure with the soil. For spring planting, choose early March. [If the plants when received by post seem shrivelled, stand them in flower pots, and sprinkle them with water. Place them in a shady corner to recover.] Mulch the plants in June, and work it in well around the collar. Pansies delight in a cool, moist soil, and therefore when the situation is at all hot and the weather is dry, an occa^ sional watering is desirable. Sprinkle the plants with water also in the evening of a hot day. Pansies from Seed. — The seed germinates readily, and should be sown outdoors in a shady place in August. Prick out the seed- lings in a prepsired bed in October. Flowers will appear the fol- lowing year. When the sowing takes place in spring it must be done in gentle heat, such as a hotbed gives off. Sow in shallow boxes filled with fine soil, and transfer the seedlings to the place they are to flower in when they have attained sufficient size. Only purchase seed raised from the best varieties. It should have been mentioned that it is important to remove the seed pods from flowering plants, as the double burden is too great a strain upon the plants. Vakieties. — The following are the best. Rayless means a flower without rays in the centre ; it is a pure self. Rayless selfs — Mrs. E. A. Cade, golden yellow ; Blue Tit, mauve-blue ; Rose Noble, orange- yellow; ImmortaUte, lilac blush; Blanche, cream-white; White Beauty, pure white; Niobe, purest white; Pembroke, canary- yellow; Florizel,- blush lilac; Rosea pallida, blush-rose; Devonshire Cream, cream. Flowers with a distinct margin — Dove, creamy- white, edged with heliotrope; Duchess of Fife, primrose, edged blue; Goldfinch, yellow and blue; Lark, white and blue; Acme, purplish-crimson; Mrs. C. F. Gordon, blotched with purple-violet and white; Stobhill Gem, lower petals violet, upper bluish-white; Cottage Maid, similar in coloxir; Isa Fergusson, black and deep blue; Butterfly, white with margin of rose. Self-coloured Pansies, rayed — Archi© Grant, indjgo blue; Bullion, deep golden-yellow; GARDENING MADE EASY. 37 Magnificent, mauv&-blue; Ardwftll Gkm, ■ulphur-yellow ; Councillor W. Waters, purple-crimson; J. B. Biding, deep mauve; True Blue, imperial blue; William Niel, rose^pink. Panaiea are very pretty planted witli other things — in rose-beds, for example — and the smaller ones, such as the charming little Violettas, are beat in the rock garden. Pentstemons.— This is one of the most beautiful flowers of the garden, and in bloom late in summer. There are many distinct and attractive shades in the flowers, the salmon-roee tints being particularly welcome. The plants are not very hardy, and fre- quently die in winter; but seed is easily raised. Two seasons are suitable for sowing — one is in June, when the seed may be sown in a shallow pan of light soil, and the seedlings wintered in a cold frame and planted out in late spring ; or sow the seed in gentle heat in January, and plant out in April, when flowers will be forthcoming the same year. The time to strike cuttings is autumn, and the way to do BO is to take half-ripened shooits, strip off a few of the lower leaves, cut shaxp under a joint, and dibble them in a shallofw box of light BoU. The cuttings will winter well under glass, and may be planted out in the following April. The Pentstemon has a large bell-shaped flower suggesting that of a Foxglove. The Phloxes- — There are two groups of Phloxes, one called ths dwarf, mossy, or alpine Phloxes, and the other the herbaceous. In the former the plants are of quite low growth, and in flowering time smothered with bloom, that of a mauve colour at once attract- ing attention. P. divaricata is very charming, its flowers lilac-blue; and the variety of it called canadensis is as pretty. One Phlox is called Bubulata, or the " Moss Pink " : it only grows six inches high, the flowers rose-pink, and there are many very beautiful varieties of it, such as alba, white; frondosa, pink, with dark centre; Nelsoni, white; The Bride, white, rose centre; and Vivid, brilliant rose, carmine centre. The Hbbbaceoxjs Phlox is a noble perennial, so handsome in colour and general appearance that a few plants should be m the smallest garden. It wUl grow in the border or bed, and appreciates the moisture of a pond or stream side. The soil for these Phloxes must always be rich and have plenty of well-decayed manure incorporated with it, and during dry summer give a mulch of manure and plenty of water. Plant in autumn or spring, divide the roots for increase of stock, an operation which in the interests of the plant will be necessary once in every four years. We advise the beginner not to trouble at first about striking cuttings or raising from seed. A few of the beat sorts are: — Mrs. Jenkins, a beautiful white; Coquelicot, orange-scarlet; Etna, crimson; Jeanne d'Arc, white, very dwarf; Roi des Roses, rose and crimson; W. Robinson, salmon-rose; Eugene Danzanvilliers, lilac; John Forbes, rose; Regnlus, carmine. Winter Cherry. — Plant this in the border. It has large inflated seed-pods, like miniature Chinese lanterns, and these are brilliant 38 GAEDBNING MADE EASY. orange-scarlet in colour; tbey make quite a show in late autumn, and the stems may be gathered to decorate the room in winter. Physalis Alkekengi is the commonest, and the other, which has laxger seed-pods, is called Franchetti. Platycodon grandiflora. — This is like a Bellflower, and has large bluish-coloured flowers on short stems. It will grow only in a warm, well-drained soil, but it is quite worthy of inclusion in this list. Jacob's Ladder. — The botanical name ia Polemonium, and the one we should choose first is P. coeruleum, the flowers of which are of a very pretty blue colour. It enjoys a well-drained soil. Polyanthuses and Pr>imroses. The Polyanthus is a form of the Primrose, and requires exactly the same treatment. There are the quaint hose-in-hose forms — that is, one flower in another, and the gold-edged, but the best in the garden are the bunch-flowered, which has the stem of the Polyanthus, but the flowers are like those of the Primrose, the colours varying from white through shades of apricot, deep yellow, and orange to pink and crimson. There axe even blue Primroses, at least the colour is sufficiently blue to justify the name. Grow both Primroses and Polyanthuses as much as possible in shade, but they will, of course, succeed in the open border. Sow seed outdoors in early summer, and if more is required of a certain variety, then the tuft must be divided after it has flowered, and the divided pieces planted in a shady place for the summer, well watered, and replanted in the following autumn where they are to bloom. The tufts sho'uld not be parted into very small pieces, as these are apt to die o£F. The double Primroses are not a general success, and a cool climate is best for them. Besides the Primroses and Polyanthuses there is the great Primula family, which gives much beauty to the garden. The best of the smaller kinds, such as the little Bird's-eye Primrose, are recommended for the rock garden, but we may specially recom- mend for the beginner a Primula called P. cortusoides Sieboldi. There are many varieties of it, but we prefer the stronger shades for the open garden, reserving the others for the greenhouse. The soil must be well drained. When to be grown in pots, put them into what is known as five-inch or six-inch size, and for soil use loam mixed with well-decayed manure. Crock the pots well. Place in a cold frame or in a greenhouse, and there will be a sur- prisingly liberal return in flowers. Another good beginner's Prim- rose is the Japanese Primrose (Primula japonica), which loves the shade of trees, but is very good when in the border. The seed may be sown as soon as it is ripe, but we advise first the beginner to purchase plants. They flower in summer and keep on for some time, and the fine leaves and strong spikes make a pleasing display. The colours are varied and very beautiful. GABDENING UADK EASY. 39 The Pyrethrum.— A useful race of plants, and many beautiful varieties have been raised of late years, especially by Kelway, whose list we advise the beginner to obtain. There are single and double varieties. A rich soil is necessary, and water in dry weather. Increase the plants by dividing them in early spring. Rudbeckia speciosa, or Newmani, as it is also called, is a very showy plant for the border, two feet high, and the flowers axe intense orange in colour, with a marone centre. Soapwort. — This is quite a cottage flower, and is known in books as Saponaria officinalis. It grows anywhere, and the double variety is the more pleasing. Saxifrage. — Many of these are mentioned in the notes about the rock garden, as they are more appropriate there than in the border ; but we must mention here the London Pride {S. umbrosa), which grows freely in almost any garden, whether near a large town or otherwise. After a time the planis become worn out, and should then be taken up in the spring, divided, and, if possible, planted in fresh soil. The filmy pink flowers are very pretty. Caucasian scabious. — Scabiosa mucasica is a beautiful bluish flower, and the plant requires a light soil. It grows about three feet high. The Stonecrops are useful, and one named Sedum spectaUle is a good border plant. It is not fastidious as to soil or position. The leaves are greyish-green, and later in autumn the flattish heads of rosy flowers are in full beauty. The Golden Hods (SoUdago) are the golden flowers of autumn. We think the most beautiful is Serotina, as it is less unruly than the others. They are picturesque plants, very hardy, and flower at the right time — late September. Solomon's Seal. — It is pleasant to have a few Solomon's Seals, as there is much beauty in the graceful flower stems, from which hang creamy bells. It enjoys a rich soil, appreciates shade, but really does well almost anywhere. The stems are useful to cut for the house. The Sweet-william. — Every garden should have its Sweet- Williams, and the newer forms of it — especially one called, we believe. Pink Beauty — are delightful. The Sweet-william makes a broad mat of leaves and billowy masses of flowers, which vary from white to deepest crimson, and some are quite double. After the plants have been two or three years in the border, they become matted, and the flowers thin and poor in colour. One group is called Auricula-eyed, and many quaint colours occur in it. Sow the seed in April in a sunny bed outdoors, thin out the seedlings, and early in September the plants must go to the places they are to flower in. It is sometimes desirable to perpetuate a certain variety, and this must be accomplished by cuttings taken in early summer. Dibble them in under a hajid-glass, and they will soon root. Treat them in the way recommended for the Pink. Virginian Spiderwort {Tradescantia drginica). — A beautiful 40 GABDENING UADX EASY. deep purple-blue flower. The plant is about two feet high j any soil suite it. The White Wood Lily {Trillium grwndiflorum). — This is a beautiful floiwer. It likes a shady, moist place, and blooms in spring. It is so beautiful that a few roots should be in the smallest garden. The Spring Star-flower increases so fast that it becomes almost a weed in time. It has pretty lilao-shaded flowers, is exceptionally free, and grows in ordinary soil. The Globe Flowers. — The Globe Flowers or Trollius are certainly plants for the small garden. They like best a rich, moist soil and half shade, but will succeed also in the border. They bloom in spring and early summer, and are not difficult to groiw. The finest are: — T. europeeus, two feet high, flowers yellow and with the scent of Cowslips; T. napellifolius, rich yellow; T. japonicus fl. pi., deep orange, semi-doiuble ; and Orange Globe, a very conspicuous orange flower, which we regard as the finest in the faiaily. Winter Heliotrope {Tussilago fragr(Ms).~~A. sweet greyish flower for a rough, odd comer ; it will spread in the driest soil. The Speedwells {Veronica). — One group of these useful border plants is tall and the other almost creeping in growth. Of the tall kinds the finest is Icngifolia subseasdlis, d which the spikes are tall and the colour is deep blue. A charming dwarf Speadwell is pros- trata; it makes a perfect mat of blu9 flowers. The PeriwinMes {Vinca). — There are two sorts, the major and the minor, both with blue flowers; but there are Tarieties, and the white is very pretty, also the d»uble blue. The Periwinkle* are plants for rough banks and shrubberies. They are quits worth a place in the small garden. Christmas Roses. — Opinions differ as to the best time for planting, some preferring February, as soon as the blooming season is past, and others September, when the plants have finished making growth. In shifting large clumps, break them up and plant the divisions separately. Old clumps, when moved entire, sometimes die in the centre, both crown and roots rotting until the whole plant becomes in an unhealthy state, and often dies. Growing the Plants in Tubs. — If sufficient trouble is taken, Christmas Roses can be grown excellently in tubs. Some years ago a writer in "The Garden" said: — "I saw a collection treated in this manner, and the plants were the picture of health, the foliage spreading over the edges of the tubs, and being of the darkest green. I was informed that they were placed under the shade of a high hedge during the summer months, and given weak manure water twice a week. The tubs were brought under glass when the buds were about an inch clear of the soil." Protection of some sort is advisable for plants grown in the border in order to prevent the flowers being damaged and splashed with dirt during heavy rains. Handlights with movable tops are, perhaps, the most satisfactory, as the tops can be tilted in fine weather and shut down during storms. Another plan is to place a garden frame over the bed, and GARDENING MADE EASY. 41 small lightS) 2 feet square, with iron legs, are sometimes used, these being firmly fixed in the ground so that the glass is just above the leaves. A glass cover tends to lengthen the foot-stalks and to keep the blossoms pure in colour. Frost never harms the plants. The following are the varieties of the Christmas Rose : — -Helle- borus niger altifolius — This is the Giant Christmas Rose, also known as H. n. maximua, grandiflorus, and giganteua. It flowers from, the end of October to Christmas. White, sometimes tinged with rose at the back of the petals, about 5 inches across, carried on tall, red- spotted stems; the foliage is very large and of a deep green. Two and three flowers are sometimes borne on a single stem. Juvernis (St. Brigid's Christmas Rose) — A lovely flower, perhaps the most beautiful of all. Pure white, cupped flowers on pale green foot- stalka. Angiistifolius — Of this there are two varieties — namely, the Manchester variety and the Scotch variety, catalogued as H. n. scotieus. In both the foliage is narrow and the leaves and flower- stalks are tail, the blosso'ms being more stairry in fo^rm than other varieties. In the Manchester variety the flowers are pure white, while in the Scotch variety the petals are suffused with rose at the back. Major (Bath variety) — Flowers very freely, purest white. Riverston variety — Flowers large, pure white, foot-stalks green. Brockhurst variety — Very charming. Mme. Fourcade — Pure White, cupped flowers, late blooming, often continuing until March. Apple Blossom, also known as camea — Buds bright rose, expanded flowers, flesh colour. The Sweet Violet in Summer and Winter*. In many gardens a corner is devoted to this sweet flower. In order to have the Violet in flower as long as possible, a few plants should be planted in different positions with various aspects. Foi instance, in order to obtain the earliest flowers in autumn, some tufts should be planted in a warm position at the foot of a south wall or in some other sheltered position with this aspect; and to secure a succession of flowers, a few should be planted in sheltered places facing east, north, and west. Thus a supply of flowers will be secured from early autumn till late in spring. Violets must have a pure atmosphere, free from smoke and other impurities. Thus the Violet cannot be successfully grown in the immediate vicinity of London or other large towns. This is much to be regretted, as a plant or two of this sweet flower wotild be highly welcomed in the crowded little gardens and backyards of our great cities. Soil. — The Violet is found growing wild on warm and partially shaded banks. It prefers well-drained and warm soil to that which is cold, but it succeeds weU in many soils, provided these are well drained. But to grow it to perfection it must have good cultivation. On poor, gravelly, or sandy soil, plenty of well-decayed manure and D 42 GARDENING MADE EAST. .::),|:i'1|||l ll i,i!i l Ui| .' Hl.ii.ililiii:l'( '^;il"|iHll»l!:ltji|,[jji|l| W^|||l.'ii|iifc|!l' ^'^ll'!'l!iii>'|iillM!i!.'!i; !iim'"!iiiiii'ni.l!i!ii.,.„ PnOPAOATINO VIOLETS. A — old plant of Neapolitan Violet " De Panne," as taken from frame after blooming season over (April) and freed from adhering soil; a, old central crown, sometimes single but often divided into a number of crowns, for the most part rootless, therefor© not generally advisable for division and propagation; 6, runners; c, point to place in soil; d, and admitting of detaching at the joint e for planting; f, suckers or growths sprung from root-stem or root-stock, and with roots laore or less, and to be slipped off as separate plants at the point g; thus, an old plant will give several rooted runners or suckers, or both, for planting to in6ure plants for lifting in late summer with well-formed crowns and good balls of soil to plant in frames for flowering. B — a runner (usually the better plant) detached and properly planted; h, roots spread out, and soil made firm about them; i, top growth only — old, sere, or broken leaves removed; GABDENING HADE EA87. 43 leaf-soil should be added the previous winter, before planting in spring. On heavier or more retentive land the manure may be dis- pensed with, but add as much of the leaf-soil as is available, especially to the land intended to grow the NeapoUtau and all the double-flowered varieties. How TO nsrcEEASE IT. — The plant is easily propagated by runners or offsets, which the plant throws out much in the same way aa the Strawberry plant does. The best time to mate a start is in spring, after the plants have done flowering. This will be towards the beginning or middle of April, and the best way is to dig up the old plants and take the soil entirely away from the roots, and then select from the old plants the strongest of the runners (miniature plants really), those being preferred which have a few roots attached toi their base; but it is not absolutely necessary that they should have any roots at all at the time of planting, as roots will be formed immediately they are detached from the parent plant and have a separate existence. The larger and stronger the offsets are, the better progress they will make after planting. It is the general practice to plant the young offsets out at once in the border or plot of ground they are intended to occupy during the summer, but a better way is to plant them thickly in prepared soil in a shady corner by themselves — say, in rows 10 inches apart and 4 inches apart in the row. They can be better looked after in this limited space by way of spraying and watering until they have formed new roota, which they will do in about a month's time, when they can be planted in their summer quarters, and where they will malte much faster and better growth than they would have done had they been planted in this position as rootless runners. A sheltered position facing east should be selected in which to plant them whilst making their summer growth. The Distances to plant apart will vary considerably, according to the varieties grown. The large single sorts require a much larger j, depth of inserting in soil (up to lowest leaves, neirer so as to bury " heart " or centre, as this may induce destruction and pushing of a number of growths and forming a tufted crown of weak parts instead of a bold one well furnished with flower-buds that give the finest flowers). C — a sucker properly planted; k, joint where detached from root-stock; I, roots from base and joints ; m, depth of inserting in soil (up to lowest leaves only — sere or broken leaves removed) ; n, top growth that will form good central crown and also side ones for flowering. D — portion of bed showing planting of largo-leaved, single-flowered sorts, such as Princess of Wales, La France, etc.; o, bed, four feet wide; p, plants sixteen inches apart every way, outside rows eight inches from side of bed, rows sixteen inches asunder, and plants that distance apart in the rows. B — portion of bed showing planting of Neapohtan Violet; g, bed, four feet wide; r. plants, rows one foot apart, outside rows six inches from sides of bed, one foot between rows, and ;plants nine inches asunder Ln the row ; s, alleys, one foot wide, f— established plant of Neapolitan var. Violet, showing: t, bold crown-growth; u, runners or weak side-growths that push more or lees from base of plant, and must be cut off at their baso? ; V, as formed through the summer. 44 GARDENING MADE ZAST. space than the double-flowered ones. The large-flowering varieties, such as the Princess of Wales, if planted in good boU, will develop into plants 18 inches across in one season, therefore 3 feet apart is noaie too much space to give them; but in the ordinary way 2 feet apart is the proper distance between the rows, aJid 15 inches between each plant in the row; for the double-flowered varieties less space will suffice. These are of a smaller and more compact growth, therefore the rows for these sho^lld be 15 inches apart only, and the »am.e distance between plant and plant in the row. Planting should be dono on a dry day, and when the ground is in a moderately dry condition. The ground should be well pressed round the roots of the young plants, and the same well watered immediately after- wards. After planting is completed, towards the end of April, the method of culture to follow is very simple and easy to carry out. It consists of occasional waterings in hot weather, frequent hoeing between the plants to keep down weeds, and cutting away surplus runners when they become too numerous in order to concentrate the energies of the plant in developing strong crowns for the production of an abundance of flowers later on. Should the weather prove to be unusually dry and hot, a mulch of leaf-mould or short manure should be laid on the surface of the soil between the plants. Occasional heavy waterings over the mulching would be attended with great advantage. Winter Treatment. — Those who have a cold or slightly heated glass pit, or even portable glass frames, in which the plants can be wintered, should remove the plants to these positions towards the end of September or the beginning of October. Possibly these pits or frames may have been used during the summer months for Melons or Cucumbers; if so, the same soil will do again for the Violets, additional soil being provided, if necessary, in order to bring the foliage of the Violet within 9 inches of the glass. The soil to be added should • be poor, as this discourages the growth of further leaves in favour of a finer supply of flowers. The Violet when dug from the ground for removal to the pits must have a solid mass of earth attached to it nearly as large as the plant itself, and the plants may be planted quite close together, as they will now make little leaf-growth, but should rather reward the grower with plenty of flowers for many months. After planting, remove the lights on all occasions when the weather is bright and warm or showery, and only protect from frost and stormy weather. They must not be forced by applying artificial heat with the object of bringing them prematurely into bloom. Those who have not the convenience of glass protection may still enjoy the pleasure of plucking these flowers for many months during autumn, winter, and spring by providing gome sort of protection for the plants whilst in flower. This is easily effected by erecting a simple framework of any rough available light timber, fixing the same over the ground in which the Violets grow. Cover in hard weather with mats, straw, or any other warm material. The GARDENING MADE EASY. 45 timber supporte for this covering need not be above 16 inches above the ground. Varieties. — These are nvimeroiis, but the selection given below will be found to include the best single varieties. Princess of Wales. — This is the best of all the single varieties. The flowers are dark blue, very fragrant, of the size of a shilling, and the stalk is of great length. This makes them useful for table decoration, as well as for the drawing-room. Princess Beatrice. — This is another beautiful variety, but of dwarfer growth, and the flower-stalks are not so long as those of the former. This is chiefly valuable for its late flowering. Wellsiana. — This variety is of much smaller growth and has smaller flowers than those above mentioned, but it is a beautiful variety and well worth growing if only for its bronzy-blue colour, reminding one somewhat of the red Violet of the Riviera (a variety which refuses to grow in England), Double Violets are not so hardy as the single sorts, therefore some protection must be given during hard frost, or they will be much injured and weakened before spring. The best of these are Marie Louise and Lady Hume Campbell. The former is blue- mauve in colour, with a distinct white eye. Lady E. Gamphell. — This is a distinctly valuable late variety, flowering quite a month later than Marie Louise, and is quite as beautiful and as fragrant. The Old Neapolitan. — For a beautiful lavender colour and sweet fragrance no variety is finer than this, but the growth is so delicate, and the number of flowers produced on a plant so few, that it is now rarely grown in this country. Mrs. Astor. — This is a new and pretty Violet. It is of the same type as Marie Louise, but the petals are of a rich bronzy- blue shade of colour, which is most distinct. It is very sweet, and should be included in every collection. Gomte de Brazza. — This is a double white variety, and when well grown is very beautiful. It should be treated like the other double varieties, and grown in poor soil in a glass frame for winter flowering. The single white is liked by many. Insect Enemies. — Red spider is the great enemy of the Violet. The most eflfective way of keeping the plants free from its ravages ia to prevent its first attack on the plants, and this is best effected at propagating time by dipping the young plants, at the time they are detached from the parent, in an emulsion of Gishui'st's Com- pound, according to directions on the box, and by syringing in the summer if necessary by a weaker solution of the same insecticide, especially on the under side of the leaf. To grow Violets success- fully they should be replanted annually as directed above. The Beauty of Wail Gardenmg. Many are the unsightly and featureless places that might be made beautiful by wall gardening, and more quickly than in any 46 GARDENING MADE EABi?. Other way, for the wall plants, having their roots always cool, seem to grow away quickly at once, and yet to be longer lived than their own brother plants in the more level garden. Indeed, waU gardening is not only extremely interesting and soon rewarding, but it seems to quicken the inventive faculty : for if one has once tasted its pleasures and mastered some of the simpler ways of adapting it for use, others are sure to present themselves, and a whole new region of discursive delights offers itself for the mental exploration of the horticulturally inventive. One after another, pleaeant schemes come to mind, soon to be fashioned, with careful design and such manual skill as may have been acquired, into such simple things of beauty and delight as this first flower-walled and then vine-shaded pleasant pathway. Besides the wall gardening that may be designed and reared, there is also that which is waiting to be done in walls that are already in being. Sometimes there is an old wall from whose joints the surface mortar has crumbled and fallen. But so good a chance is not for every garden, for often the wall that one would wish to make the home of many a lovely plant ia of the plainest brick or stone, and the mortar joints are fairly sound. Still, the ardent wall gardener is not tO' be daunted, for, armed with a hammer and a bricklayer's cold chisel, he knocks out joints and comers of bricks (when the builder is not looking on) exactly where he wishes to have his ranges of plants. A well-built wall, seasoned and solidified by some years' standing, will bear a good deal of such knocking about. In chiselling out the holes, the only thing that had better be avoided is making much of a cavity just under an upright joint; nor is it ever needful, for even if one wishes to have a longish range of any one plant, the plants will close up, though planted in the first place a little way apart; while there is nothing against widening any upright joint or making it gape funnelwise either upward or down. From March to May, or just after they ripen in the autumn, seeds are put in, mixed with a little loamy earth, and if the cleft or opening ia an upright one, unwilling to retain the mixture, a little stone ia wedged in at the bottom or even cemented in. For a plant of rather large growth, like Valerian (Gentranihus), a whole coping brick can be knocked off the top, and probably quite a nice rooting- place be made with the downward-digging chisel, to be filled up with suitable soil. By some such means, and always thinking and trying and com- bining ideas, the plainest wall can in a couple of years be so pleas- antly transformed that it is turned into a thing of flowery beauty. There is no wall with exposiure so hot or so cold that has not a plant waiting for just the conditions that it has to offer, and there will be no well-directed attempt to convert mural ugliness into beauty whoso result will not be an encouragement to go on and do still better. Little Rock Gar«densi A little rock garden gives great pleasture, and when it is well planted makes a bright and interesting feature. We must take as GAEDENING MADE EASY. 4? an example, a suburbam garden in a more or less sunny or shady aspect. In such circumstances there is usually a position available on one of the sides of the house-, and not unfrequently at the back of the house, the garden being in the rear, where such a rockery can be made. FiEST Steps. — The first point, when a certain site is decided upon, is to dig up the soil as deeply as possible and ensure perfect drainage. This done, the next thing is to make a moderate bank of earth, the highest part not les» than two feet. The soil for the bank should consist of common soil with a free admixture of road grit, sharp silver sand, leaf-mould, and very old manure. This must be well mixed together and formed into a gentle slope. If it is intended to make the rockery against the dwelling-house wall, care should be taken when forming up the bank of soil to first place some rough clinkers or brickbats in position against the wall as proof against moisture entering the brickwork. With the bank of earth in position, the stones may now be arranged. It will depend entirely upon the locality whether sandstone, oolite, or any other rock formation is most easily obtainable. In many gardens, those of the London suburbs in particular, clinkers or clinkered burrs are the chief things available; and certainly with the help of the latter it is possible to grow many plants to perfection. These burrs are usually plentiful where large brick-kilns abound; they sihould be rough, at large as possible, and with no brick wall facing. Making the Rockeey. — ^The next thing, and probably the most important, is the erection of the rockery. We are considering now a ro<^ery within certain limits — ^namely, the suburban or small garden — ^in which it is in a position adjacent to the house. The rockery must present an irregular front-line. When this is properly carried out it will be available for a larger number of plants, because of the burrs or stones providing a greater variety of aspect— i.e., the sunny and the shady side of any given mass of rock. As an illus- tration we will take two stones or masses of burrs and regard them of almost equal dimensions — say, 9 inches deep, that is the face to be; 20 inches in length, as from left to right; and 12 inches broad, as from front to back. In not a few so-called rockeries the front of the itone falls at an angle similar to that of the bank of soil, but this is a gad blunder. A lesson should be drawn from nature, and the natural arrangement of stones on the hillside carefully studied. The beginner in gardening can easily do this. We will start at the bottom of the bank of soil. To correctly place these stones or burrs, cut into the bank of soil in such a way aa to form a badly shaped and widely extended letter V, the front line of ea^ih stone so- raised up that it tilts back towards the bank of earth. This arrangement, if carefully made, will provide at once two excellent positions for plants — that on a level with the path or near it being the plaxje for a maas of the little white Bellflower (Campanula pumila), while the upper surface, the apparently projecting ledge of rock, is equally good for such overhanging masses as the Alpine or Setacea 48 GAEDENINe MADE EASY. ( GAEDENING MADE EASY. 49 Phloxes, Aubrietiaa, and the like. The chief aim should be to so place the stones or rocks as not only to support the bank of earth and prevent the soil from being washed away by heavy rains, but also to form a retaining ledge sufficient for the plants intended to be used. Where opportunity offers make small prominences here and there with the rocka or stones, and these prominences could be planted or topped with a small Yucca, or one of the dwarfer Coni- fers, a trailing Cotoneaster, or any other plant that would provide a certain degree of change in the arrangement, at the same time giving a diversity of aspect. A recess of larger size may appear in a central position for the same reason, and if circumstances allow, a central sunken bed could be formed therein for such plants as are known to be of a moisture-loving nature. In making these little rock gardens do not use cement. Crevices or interstices between any two blocks of burrs must be duly charged with soil, and this will suffice. Masses of Aubrietias, tufts of Sea Pink or Armeria, or of Alyssum, Dianthus or Pink, would be quite happy in the little crannies, while here and there the Snapdragon, Wallflower, or Fumitory would revel. Openings of smaller size would be found suitable for Stonecrop, Houseleek, Erinus, or Saxi- frage. Indeed there is no end to the variety of things that may be planted in this little rock garden. The chief points to observe are : (1) an assured depth of soil for the roots of the plants; (2) the disposal of the stones or rocks in such a way as to create a variety of aspects while endeavouring to secure a certain ruggedness to all exposed surfaces of the rock. Whether the arrangement shall take the form of a series of steps or ledges of rock on© above the other on an inclining bank of earth, or whether the plan of small and large pocketa be adhered to for the plants, is a matter that the amateur must decide for himself according to circumstances. But we should certainly adopt the former. In the hottest spots plant only such things as Sedums, Semper- vivums, Corydalis capnoides, and Zauschneria, which delight in a warm comer. In a raised place with plenty of mortar rubbish in the soil the hardy Cacti could be planted. The poorest of soil with old mortal- or limestone chippings and no manure are the chief essentials to success. Choose from the following : —Opuntia vul- garis, O. rafinesquiana., O. humilis. Agave utahensis and Mesem- bryanthemum uncinatum are also useful. Plants foi^ the LIttEe Rock Garden. FoH Shady Positions. — The Saxifrages are useful here, and select S. sancta, yellow; S. apiculata, primrose-yellow; S. juniperifolia, yellow; S. oppositifolia, and its variety alba, all beautiful plants when in flower in March and April; 8. muscoides, S. m. atropur- purea, S. m. densa, S. Rheii, S. Wallacei, S. tenella, the Meadow Saxifraga (.S". granuUta plena), S. maweana. Other plants that 50 GARDENING MADE EASY. prefer a similar position, but not essential, are tlie Hepaticas, Ramondia pyreaaica, E,. p. alba., whicli like a peaty mixture of loam and peat equally; Rhexia virginica, Ourisia coccinea, so planted as to creep over a stone; Bachelors' Buttons (Ranunculus amplexi- caulis), and such Primulas aa P. rosea, P. denticulata, P. d. cash- meriana, coloured Primroses, Border Auriculas, Mazus Pumilio, Hutchinsia alpina, Horminum pyrenaicum, the Spring Gentian {Gentiana verna), Creeping Forget-me-not {Om'phalodes verna), and the Bellflowers, Campanulas pumila, p. alba, pulla, G. F. Wilson, csespitosa, and tubinata. These will form a good beginning, and require no special soils. Not less than one foot deep of soil should be available, and it is best to form a little group. Plant with a thin bit of board IJ inches wide and 6 inches long, tapered at the end. For Sunny Positions. — Here, again, the Saxifrages are of im- portance, especially those of " encrusted " section, so called because of the encrusted character of the leaves. They are attractive at all seasons, particularly when in a rather dry, well-drained soil, and should be planted in groups. Old mortar or grit should be added to the soil. The best are S. aizoon, S. a. rosularis, the beautiful white early-flowering S. burseriana, and the variety major, S. cochlearis, S. c. major, S. Cotyledon, S. cristata, S. Grisebacki, S. THE WEONG WAY TO PLACE THE STONES. lantoscana, and S. longifolia, which is the queen of all. The rosettes of leaves are often six inches across, and seem as if frosted, so distinct and beautiful is the encrustation Good companion plants for these are Achillea umbellata, A. Clavennae, Draba aizoides, Dryas octopetala, D. Drummondi, the Edelweiss (which is very eamly raised from seed), Edraianthus serpyllifolia, the Wall Bell- flower (Gamparmla muralis), C. garganica, and the white form of this, GARDENING MADE EASY. 61 Dielyfcra eximia., Za,usciineiria caJifoimica, Alpine Columbine (Aqui- legia alpina), A. csenilea, Spring Adonis {A. vernalis), the Alyssums, Prophet Flower {ArneUa echioides), Alpine Wallflower {Gheiranthus alpinus), C. Marshalli, Cyclamen coTim (a charming little rosy- crimson flower), Gypsophila cerastioides, Alpine Lychnis (L. alpina). Iris cristata, the winter-flowering I. stylosa and I. s. alba. One small set of the Houseleek family known as the Cob-web Houseleek ought to have been mentioned. It is called Sempervivum arachnoddeum, and enjoys a warm, sunny spot in gritty loam. In growing the plants mentioned in this list, a moderately good depth of soil — cer- tainly not leas than 9 inches — shooild be given, and this, if of good quality, will need no manure. Sprinkle small stones, such as clean- washed gravel, broken brick, or old mortar, between and about the plants, not merely for the sake of appearance, but to prevent a too rapid evaporation of the moisture in the soil and to assist in keeping away slugs. Spring and early summer are excellent for planting from poits, but otherwise choose early autumn. Thoroughly water the plants that have been broken up for planting in groups. Finish the planting by the end of April. The More Showy Plants for the same purpose are the following. All are easily raised from seeds, which may be sown in any spare crevice in the rock garden or mixed with a little soil where such does not exist. Only the smallest pinch of seed is necessary, and the seeds should be very thinly sown : — Erinus alpinus and a. albus. Fumitory {Gorydalis lutea), Drabas, Aubrietias in variety, Alys- sums, Tunica Saxifraga, Bamondias (cool and moist peaty soils). Pinks, Saxifraga Rhei, S. longifolia, Alpine Piimroses, such as Primula scotica, P. frondosa, P. rosea, P. denticulata, Aquilegia aJpina, A. glandulosa rosa., Thrift (Armeria), Erysimum, Cheiran- thus (Wallflower), Edelweiss, Linarias, Linums, Saponaria, Silenes in variety, Veronica prostrata, V. rupestris, Zauschnerias, Alpine Forget-me-not {Myosotis alpestris), and the Gentians. Beautiful Annual Flovife»*s. The sheet anchor of the beginner in gardening and those who have only quite a small garden is the annual flower, and by this is meant a plant that blooms the same year as the seed is sown — i.e., if seed is sown in March, flowers will be forthcoming in summer. The common Nasturtium, Sweet Pea, Marigold, Cornflower, and »o forth, are annuals. It is possible, with the selection given, to make beautiful effects in the border or in the flower-bed, and in the case of so popular an annual as the Sweet Pea, perhaps there is a little path in the garden which may be lined with the fragrant flowers. In my larger book, " Gardening for Beginners," there are elaborate instructions for sowing the seed, but no detail must be omitted. The importance of detail in gardening cannot be too strongly insisted upon. Depth to Sow the Seeds. — ^As is mentioned, in sowing the seeds 52 GARDENING MADE EASY. of annualB, the Bmallest oovering of soil is usually »ufScient as a general rule; but the seeds of various plants vary bo much in size, that it is better to cover small ones only half an inch deep, or eveu less, and the larger-seeded kinds somewhat deeper. A method often practised is to draw a line or a circular drill with a stick, or with the first finger, and sprinkle in the seeds, finally scratching the boU over again with a small handfork Other seeds required in larger gardens may be sown thinly broadcast and raked in with the teeth of a small handfork. Too Thick-Sowing a Mistake. — The seedling plants must not be overcrowded. If any doubt exists comoeming the germinating powers of the seeds, sow them more thickly. Old seed does not come up so freely as the new, SiO one cannot always judge; though, when obtained from the best nurserymen, full germination gener- ally takes place. To give a practical illustration of the results of overcrowding, place a single seed of a Mignonette in the ground, and the seedling wiU spread into a mass a foot or fifteen inches across, covered with fine spikes ; but allow thirty seeds in the same space, and the outcome is deplorable. Suppose, for instance, one wishes to make a fine display in the mixed border, and groups about three feet across are desired. For these the Candytufts or Mignonette would be suitable, and fifty seeds will be ample to sow over this space. This illustrates the necessity for sowing thinly and also thinning out freely, to allow the plant space for proper development. When thinning, take care that the seedlings close by are not un- necessarily disturbed. Those that remain must be quite firm. It is astonishing the difference in the growth of annuals that are thinned and those that are left to fight for themselves. This is a true case of the survival of the fittest. It is usually supposed that all sowings should be made in spring, but this is far froon the case. The majority of annuals, it is true, must be sown in March or April, but autumn sowing has many advantages. Autumn sowing means early flowering. The plants are established before winter, and in the spring soon begin to bloom. By sawing both in autumn and the following spring it is possible to have a succession of many of the individual kinds throughout the season. The following list includes the most beautiful sorts : — Sweet Alyssum. — This will be found in catalogues and books under the name of Alyssum maritimum. It is a very dwarf little plant, and it has white, very fragrant flowers. It is quite hardy. Sow the seed in early spring — say, the second week in March. China Aster. — This is not really an Aster at all, but a Calliste- phus. The true Asters are the Michaelmas Daisies of autumn. The China Aster is half-hardy, and it is best to sow the seed under glass in early spring, a hot-bed being very usefid under these conditions; pot out the plants and plant them out in May, in well-prepared soU. The China Asters are very beautiful, and we advise the beginner to have plenty of them. The wild form is as charming as any, its tall flower-stem supporting a ray of purple florets. A bed of it is a GABDBNINQ MADE EASY. 53 feature during the late summer months ; and also get plenty of the Ostrich Plume sorts — ^the mauve, rose, pink, white, and purple. They will give pleasure for weeks. The flowers are frequently mis- taken for Japanese Chrysanthemums. This free and graceful type is prelerable to the stumpy little sorts of years agO' — the Quilled, and so forth. The seed of the China Aster, where there is no artificial heat available, may be sown in the open border in spring, but the flowers will be later than in the case of those sown under glass. Oornflower. — A well-known hardy annual, of which there are several colours, but we prefer the tail blue, a dear and beautiful shade. There are also rose and white forms, and several that are only a few inches high. These we dislike. Seed of the Comfloiwer may be sown in September and spring, and it is worth while making two distinct sowings of so welcome a flower. Glarkia. — C elegans and C. pulchella are very pretty annual floiwers, and flower freely from seeds sown in March. Rose, carmine, and white axe the chief colours, and the plants bloom abundantly. CoUinsia bicolor. — This grows about twelve inches high, and the flowers are white and rosy-purple in colour. When seed of this is sown in autumn — and choose C. vema for this sowing — flowers appear in May, and spring-sown seed gives plants that bloom later in the year. Coreopsis tinctoria. — One of the most charming of annuals, branching in growth, with slender stems tinted with brownish- crimson and green flowers; the colours are remarkably rich, and it is a sort of much value for cutting. It grows like a weed, and lasts practically the whole summer in bloom. Larkspurs. — These are annuals of graceful growth, and last a long time in bloom, especially when the seed is sown in autumn ; but the seed may also be sown in March. It is well to sow seed on the fringe of the shrubbery — anywhere a bit of blue colouring is desired. The plants differ in growth : some are tail, others are branching. Oalifornian Poppy.. — This is the well-known Extinguisher Flower, or Eschscholt2aa califomica, which grows with remarkable freedoan. We like, the old sort best, the orange-yellow flower which makes so rich a piece of colouring during the summer; but there are rose and white varieties. The Eschscholtzia grow^s about twelve inches high, and seeds may be sown in August and September for early flowers the following year, and also in March. Gilia tricolor. — The pretty annual flower of lavender colouring, with a ring of white in the centre ; it is dwarf and very free. Everlastings. — These are so named because of the nature of the flcywers, which are " everlasting " ; they are like bits of stiff paper, and retain their colour for years, especially when gathered just as the buds open in their full beauty. Gather them when the weather is dry, and hang the branches up downwards in a cool, dry room until wanted for use. The best to choose is Helichrysum bractea- tum, which grows about three feet high, and should be sown in May 64 GARDENING MADE EAST. in the open garden. Another very pretty " ererlaAting " it tha Rhodanthe, now known as Helipterum niajiglesii. It is also very pretty in pots, is half-hardy, and has rose and also white flowers. Sow the seeds in May in a warm border, and raise them under glass in the same way as recommended for the China Aster. Candytuft. — This is the Iberis, of which there are many, all of quick growth. The growth is dwarf and compact, and the plants are quite little mounds of bloom when they are in full beauty. The seed germinates very quickly, and the thinning-out must be vigor- ously done. The several varieties are all good, and the colours very varied. Liniim grandifLorum. — One of the brightest of all hardy annuals, the colouring being a pure crimson, and seems to glow in the summer sun. It is about twelve inches high, and flowers wUl appear from May to October when successive sowings are made. Lavatera trimestris. — This Mallow is one of the most beautiful of all annual flowers. It prefers perhaps a moist soil, but we have had it in full bloom on quite a hot and dry border where a strong growth would seem impossible. We have seen quite little hedges formed of it, but wherever it is placed it is always bright and attractive. As a rule the stems attain a height of three feet, and the flowers are not unlike those of the single Hollyhock, and of beautiful colours. The sort called Rosea splendens is a clear, soft rose, and Rosea alba is white. A mixture of the two is pretty. Sow the seed very thinly, and give the plants afterwards plenty of space. Unless this is done the growth becomes stunted and the flowers few. Lupine. — There are annual as well as perennial Lupines, the flowers showing many pretty shades of blue. They are tall, graceful, and effective ; and the best are Lupinus luteus, L. mutabilis, and L. subcamosus. Bartonia aurea. — This is an old-fashioned garden flower, two feet high, and bearing large rich yellow flowers. Sow the seed in April where the seedlings are to remain, only thin out well. The Bluest of Annuals. — We think NemopMla insignis may be easily classed among the bluest of annual flowers. It is pleasant to watch the sky-blue flowers twinkling in the sun. Not only is the seed, in the writer's case, scattered in the border, but it is sown as a carpet to small beds. April is the month to sow, and choose the warmest and sunniest spots. Love-in-a-Mlst. — This is the quaint Nigella damascena. It is not tall, eighteen inches at the most, but there is a quiet grace in the plant. Sow the seed in March, and we should make free sowings of it, as the flowers are very pretty, veiled as it were in feathery green bracts. Soft blue is the colour of the ordinary form, but Miss Jekyll has raised an improved sort, which will be found in catalogues under the name of Nigella Misa Jekyll. Poppies. — The annual Poppies are a great gain to the English garden, and may be scattered here and there and everywhere. GARDENING MADE EASY. 55 choosing, of course, appropriate spots. We generally make a very free sowing of the beautiful Shirley Poppies, and scattered a lot over a large heap of soil one year with the happiest results. One of the brightest of all is the Caucasian Poppy {Papaver umbrosum), which has intense scarlet flowers, with a black blotch at the base of each petal. It is a wonderful colour, and a masa of it makes a brilliant picture. Sow the seed in autumn, but the Shirley Poppy in spring. There are the varieties of the Opium Poppy, French and others, but we prefer the two named. Another Blue Annual. — The name of this is Phacelia campanularia, which must be sown in March. It grows about eight inches high, and forms a mound of deep blue flowers, as blue aa the Gentian of the Alps. We have always grown it in the warmest part of the garden where the soil is not over rich, and it seems to enjoy these conditions. Drummond's Phlox. — This is a beautiful half-hardy annual that requires much the same cultivation aa the China Aster. Sow the seed in heat, and prick the plants off as soon as they are ready into shallow boxes. They will soon make nicei-sized plants, and should then be gradually hardened ofi until they are ready to go to the open ground in May. The colours are delightful, especially the deep crimson self, and a pure salmon rose; but there are many shades. They remain in bloom for weeks, and may be gathered in plenty for the hoowe. The Sun Plant. — This is the Portulaca, and the cheery English name is quite appropriate: it is a child of the sun, and the flowers are of gorgeous tints — crimson, metallic purple, yellow, and white — a galaxy of coloatrs which no other aimual can present. It is a very dwarf plant, and for this reason is useful to carpet the surface of a bed or a border ; but the position must be warm and sunny and the BoU light and sandy. Sow the seeds in April or early May. Venus's Looking-glass, or Specwlaria speculum, as the botanists call it, is a pretty dwarf annual closely allied to the Bellflowers or Campanulas. The flowers are violet-blue in colour, the eye white, and there is a great wealth of them. It often reproduces itself yearly from self-sown seeds. Sea Lavenders. — The Statices form an interesting group. The flowers may be regarded as everlasting, and are much used when dried for the adornment of the house. Sow the seed in April, but a more satisfactory way is to raise it earlier in heat, much as is recom- mended for the China Aster and Phlox Drummondi. The best of the annual Statices are the bright yellow S. Bonduelli, S. sinuata, blue and also white, and S. Suworowi, which has long spikes of rose- coloured floiwers. Leptosiphons. — Charming little annuals, very easy to grow. There are several kinds, but the most satisfactory are L. androeaceus, aureus, and densiflonis. Tobacco-flowers. — The Night-scented Tobacco {Nicotmna affmis) is one of the most popular of summer flowers. It is taJl — over three 56 GARDENING MADE EASY. feet — and the creamy-white flowers open in their full freshness during the evening, when they exhale a pleasant fraigrance. Un- fortunately, during the day, when the Bun is at all stroiig, the flowers close up and are the reverse of pretty. But it is a good garden flower for the beginner, and is very easily raised from seed, which should be sown in gentle warmth. Treat it much in the same way as recommended for the China Aster. Sylvestris is a very handsome tobacco, taller than afSnis, and quite distinct. The flowers are in masses, tube-like in shape, and white. A bed of it is very striking. Then there are the Nicotiana hybrids, which have been so much criticised since they appeared. They represent many colours, and the crimson is the most effective. Sow the seeds of all these under glass. Mignonette. — We want plenty of Mignonette, to saturate the garden with fragrance. Of course, the Mignonette is too familiar to describe, but the most popular variety is Machet, then there is Mile's Spiral — ^but Machet seems as much grown as any. Sow in March, and make successiomaj sowings. It can also be grown well in pots. Marigolds. — The Marigold has the reputation of being a weed, but it is a beautiful weed withal, and scatters its glorious flowers in the dreariest spot. It is the Mark Tapley of the flower world. Orange King is as fine as any. Then there are the French and African Marigolds, which are sold under tho names respectively of Tagetes signata pumila and T. erecta. The French Marigold grows about six inches high, and the African two feet, while the former has yellow and rich brown flowers, and the other lemon and orange- yellow. A bed alone of the African Marigold brings striking beauty to the garden in autumn, and it is a pity it is not more grown. Treat it as for the China Aster. Chinese or Indian Pinks. — A very interesting group of annuals, known in books aa Dianthus sinensis, and there is also D. Hedde- wigii. The flowers are very varied in colour, and may be compared to a single Carnation with toothed petals.' A mass of them is very showy. Albus, white ; carneus, flesh-colour ; fulgens, double scarlet; and altro-sanguineus are all fine forms. The seeds may be sown in gentle warmth in March, and follow the same treatment as recom- mended for the China Aster, or a sowing may be made outdoors in April and May. Thin the seedlings out so that they are left quite six inches apart. They need not be transplanted. Sweet Pea. — A flower indispensable in all gardens, whether they are large or small. No annual gives greater pleasure. It is full of colour, free, and fragrant, and when the plants are not allowed to seed, they remain in beauty for many weeks. There is, indeed, a society devoted to the Sweet Pea alone, and its annual exhibition is an event many flower-lovers look forward to. Sweet Peas enjoy a rich soil; and where the ground is poor, dig out a trench a foot or even more deep, and put in the bottom some well-decayed horse manure, then fill up with good soil. The manuring must not be overdone, or the liquid manure waterings afterwards, otherwise the buds will GARDENING MADE EASY. 67 drop oflF. We have frequently wondered why thia ahould happen, and have ascertained that the cause is undoubtedly too rich a food. The usual way is to sow the seed in April, two or three inches apart, and the pame in depth, but the finest results come from sowing the seeds in April in what is known as forty-eight or five-inch pots, five seeds in each, or even a seed may be sown in a little pot. They may be raised in a greenhouse, and, before being transferred to the open garden, hardened off in a cold frame. The object of this " hardening off," in placing the seedlings in a cold place, is to ensure proper solidity, so to speak, of the growth. A plant drawn up at all in heat and suddenly planted outdoors in oiir uncertain climate is likely to receive a severe check. Plant six inches apart, and stake at once. The after attention required by this beautiful plant is very simple. Most important of all is to keep the planta free from seeds, unless, of course, these are desired, when a portion of the row should be reserved for this purpose alone. No flower is more satisfactory in the small garden. Tlie seeds may be sown to line some path or in the kitchen plot — wherever, indeed, fragrance and colour are desired. And how useful the flower is to cut for the house. A bowl of Sweet Pea blossom is always pleasant to look at and to smell. Sorts to Select. — There is a wide range of varieties, and the following are the most beautiful of the quite new varieties : — Evelyn Byatt, rich orange-salmon; Henry Eckford, a remarkably distinct Sweet Pea, of a similar shade, but the two ma.y be grown without introducing sameness; Helen Pierce, purplish; Queen Alexandra, scarlet; St. George, fiam^e-scarlet ; Helen Lewis, orange; 'John Ingram, rose; Nora Unwin, white; May Malcolm, rich pink; Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes, clear pink; The Hon. C. R. Spencer, scarlet; Sutton's Queen, cream and soft pink; Hon. Mrs. Kenyon, primrose; *Gladys Unwin, pink; *CounteBs Spencer, pink; *Scarlet Gem, scarlet; King Edward VII., crimson; Romola, blue; *Bolton's Pink, a beautiful pink; *Dorothy Eckford, white; Salopian, crimson; Lord Rosebery, rose; Prima Donna, pink; *Duches3 of Sutherland, blush ; *Navy Blue and Countess Cadogan, blue; *Miss Willmott, orange; *Lady Grisel Hamilton, lavender; *Georg6 Gordon, magenta; Black Knight, marone; Jeannie Gordon, rose and buff; *Gorgeous, orange; and Sadie Burpee, white. Those marked with an asterisk would be our first selection. If ooily six sorts are desired, choose Dorothy Eckford, Countess Spencer, Miss Willmott, Lady Grisel Hamilton, Gcorgeaus, and Navy Blue. Gypsophila elegans. — The type is white, but the variety rosea has rosy-coloured flowers. It is surprising that this extremely pretty and useful annual is not more grown. We always make three sowings, at intervals of three weeks, to maintain a succession of the starry flowers. The feathery sprays of bloom are useful to cut for the house, almost as much so as the well-known Gypsophila pani- culata, a border perennial. Limnanthes Douglasi, — This is one of the most useful annuals in cultivation. It is eaadly recognised by the fragrant flowers, which E 58 GARDENING MADE EASY. are yellow and white, and appear throughout the summer. It sows itself very freely, but is always welcome. Salpiglossis, — We may regard this as the queen of annual flowers. It is extremely graceful, and the colouring of the flowers is very beautiful, comprising shades of crimson, purple, orange, and cerise, and sometimes veined most charmingly. A bed of it is certain to give Batisfaction. There are two seasens for sowing the seed — in heat in February, and in the open garden in late April. The seed sown in heat will soon give sturdy little seedlings, which must be pricked off and hardened, ready to go into their appointed places in May. When the sowing takes place outdoors, the seedlings must not be transplanted, but thinned out six inches apart on the spot. Virginian Stock. — A well known annual, not more than six inches high, and very^ fragrant. Its little rose and white flowers appear in profusion, and we make every spring scattered sowings of it in any conveniemt spot, such as in the front of shrubs or on a little rock garden. It always looks so fresh. Viscaria. — ^^-Ihe best known of the Viscarias is F. cardinalis, which has crimson flowers. Sow the seed in March. Chrysanthemums. — The annual Chrysanthemums may be in- cluded, and are useful, especially for pots. The colours are very striking, and displayed in circles on the petals. C. tricolor, atro- coccineum and burridgeanum are the best known. Each is a foot high, and seeds germinate readily outdoors if sown about March. Zinnias. — Very quaint half-hardy annuals of varied colourings. Treat as for the China Aster (see page 52). They like a rich soil and an open position — indeicd, even in the wairaest spots the flowers expand well, never losing their colour. Grasses. — A few of the annual Grasses are very pleasing and may be easily raised from seed sown in early April. Sow the seeds where the seedlings are to remain, and when they are very fine, miv them with light soil to ensure a general distribution, otherwise there will be a patch here and another there. The Grasses are useful to gather for winter decoration. Treat them as one would the " everlastings." The most useful are: Agrostis pulchella, A. nebulosa, the Hairtail Grass (Lagurus ovatus), and the Quaking Grass (Briza maxima). Annual Ciimbireg Plants. The best of these are the graceful Canary Creeper (Tropceolum canariense), which has festoons of bright yellow flowers; the Japanese Hop, one of the quickest in growth of all climbers, and very rampant; Climbing Nasturtiums, and the exquisite Morning Glory {Ipomcea ruhro-ccerulea), which may be likened to a large Convolvulus. The flowers are of a beautiful azure blue. It is a very tender annual, and the seed must be sown in heat in February, the seedlings potted out, and then gradually hardened off. Rich soil is needful, such as may be made by incorporating loam and well- rotted manure together. Choose a warm, sunny corner for it. CHAPTEE III. Climbing Plants. Climbing plants form one of the chief joys of the flower garden, and their selection depends a good deal on the climate. It is poftsible, of course, in Devonshire to grow plants which further north require protection during winter. TENDER SHRUBBY CLIMBERS. are the Abelia, the Sweet Verbena (Aloysia citriodora), the Bignonia radicans, Ceanothus, Choisya temata (called the Mecsican Orange- flower, because of the similarity of the flowers to those of tiie Orange), Escallonia, Fuchsia, and Passion Flower. These are not strictly climbers, but rather shrubs which are most useful for planting against walls. Ceanothus azureus and C. Gloire de Ver- sailles are very beautiful in such a position; and so is the Fuchsia Riccartoni and the Sweet Verbena, which when bruised exhales a Bweet, lemon-like perfume. The Winter Sweet {Ghimonanthus fragrans) has very sweet, pale yellow flowers in winter, but it is not tender. TRUE CLIMBERS. Select from The Virginian Creepers (Ampelopsis) — and the sort that clings most tightly to a wall is called muralis; it is the best climber for town gardens, as it is very quick in growth and very pretty when in full leaf. The Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia Sipho) is very handsome. It has a large heart-shaped leaf, and presents a beautiful sfurface of green colouring. The flowers have giveji rise to the popular name; they are like little pipes, and though inconspicuous in colouring, their quaint shape attracts attention. The Double Bindweed (Calystegia) is more suitable for covering a root stump or similar thing, and its double flowers are best seen under such conditions. There is a wealth of Clematises. — C. Jackmani, the blue one, comes first, and the big saucer-like flowers of other sorts are always pleasant to Bee. Countess of Lovelace, greyish colouring; Lucie Lemoine, white; Gipsy Queen, purple; Beautv of Worcester, violet; Henryi, creamy white, autumn flowering; Lady Caroline Nevill, white touched with 60 GASDEXIKG MADE EASY. blue; Madame van Houtte, mauve and white; Otto Froebel, grey; Lady LondeslDorough, lilac; and Eubra grandiflora, red. Very beautiful the familiar Traveller's Joy, Clematis flammala, C. mooi- tana (which is a cloud of white in spring, but, unfortunately, is soon over), C. paniculata, and C. Viticella. INCREASING THE CLEMATIS BY LATEBS. A — ^late summer (September) layering; a, parent plant or root- stock ; b, young shoot or vine of current season's growth, with lower leaves and those on vine that would be inserted in soil removed; c, joint from whence roots will push ; d, cavity : old so'l has been removed ; new soil should be good loam, leaf-mould, and sharp sand in equal parts; e, peg to secure the layer ; / , stake to keep the top erect. Keep all growths from the peg to the parent plant rubbed off whilst very young. In about a year the layer may be removed and planted out. B — ripe shoot in soil to induoe roots from joints; g, vine or branch; h, points wheore bark is GARDENING MADE EASY. 61 Eccremocarpus SCaber is a very pretty climber for arbours and trellises, and has orang»-red flcwers in summer, but it must be pro^ tected with a covering of ashes over the roots in very severe weather, as it comes from Chili. It is a perennial, but may be treated as an annual. Sow the seeds in gentle heat in March, pot them out when large enough, and plant out at the end otain Positions. The following selections may not include the latest Roses, but all may be relied upon to flower abundantly. New Roses should undergo a severe trial before being placed in the lists prepared for amateurs. Where, however, we are convinced that a novelty is quite satisfactory, it is included. It may be instructive to the beginner to explain the letters used in books and catalogues. H.P. signifles Hybrid Perpetual; H.T., Hybrid Tea; and T., Tea; and we have restricted the list as much as possible to prevent any confusion to the beginner in gardening. The varieties mentioned may be purchased from any of the leading Rose nurserymen. H.T. (Best 21). — This is a very beautiful class, and the best twenty would be — Augustine Guinoisseau, white, with a faint rose tinge, very sweet, and exceptionally free in autumn ; Cameons, one of the freest and most charming of all Roses, a bright rosy colour, and flowers until quite late autumn; Grace Darling, pink and cream, free, and very hardy; G. Nabonnand, rosy yellow; Grand Due de Luxembourg, pink and warm rose; Gruss an Teplitz, deep crimson, very sweet; Gustavo Regis, yellow, beautiful in the bud stages; Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, lemon; Killarney, pink; La France, pink; Mme. Ravary, a lovely apricot colour; Mme Abel Chatenay, salmon rose, very fragrant, and probably the most GABDENING MADE EASY. 77 beautiful of the Hybrid Teas; Mme. Cadeau-Ramey, flesh; Hon. Edith Gifford, flesh colour, deepening to rose in the centre; Mme. Jules GrolKB, soft rose ; Mme. Pemet Ducher, canary colour ; Marquise de Salisbury, scarlet, a wonderful rose for colour when grouped; Marquise Litta, reddish colour, very fine; Mrs. W. J. Grant, pink; Corallina, red; Viscountess Folkestone, white, blotched witli pink, a loose, graceful flower; Caroline Tea- tout, pink; Marie Van Houtte, yellow, margined with rosy shade, very beautiful; Maman Cochet, salmon rose; White Maman Cochet, cream; Liberty, crimson. H.T. (Best 12). — Cameons, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Viscoxmtess Folkestone, Hon. Edith Gifiord, Corallina, La France, George Nabonnand, Marie van Houtte, Caroline Testout, Marquise de Salisbury, Maman Cochet, White Maman Cochet. H.T. (Best 6). — Cameons, Mme. Abel Chatenay, La France, Viscountess Folkestone, Marie Van Houtte, Caroline Testout. H.T. (Best 3). — Caroline Testout, Mme. Abel Chatenay, and Viscountess Folkestone. Rose-Growing in Pots. Beautiful Roses may be grown in a greenhouse with other plants if there is (a) plenty of light, (b) no cold draughts, (c) steady heat, (d) freedom from overcrowding. Go'to a good nurseryman and pick out the plants, preferably in early autumn. If economy must be studied, purchase plants in five-inch or six-inch pots; if not, those in seven-inch or eight-inch would be best. If in the former, they should be transferred at once to the next larger size. The soil should consist of a mixture of loam obtained from a meadow, just beneath the grass. Three parts of this and one part of rotted manure make a good Rose soil if well mixed together. The new pots should be ready washed, and place in each some crocks — one large piece to go over the hole in the bottom, and a few smaller pieces. Put a handful or so of soil on the crocks, then the plants, having first removed the old crocks. The ball of earth should be lightly prodded with a pointed stick to release the roots a little. Press the new soil firmly around the ball, and ram it tight with a stick. If plants in seven-inch or eight-inch pots are procured, no repotting will be necessary the first year. The pot should never be too large, but let it be one size bigger each time, and the repotting must never take place in winter. It is better to give them a top- dressing if the growth seems weakly. This top-dressing means merely removing about an inch of the surface soil and replacing it with fresh, such as mentioned above. Time to Begin. — January is a good month to begin Rose-growing in pots, and it is not too late to buy plants. They will be dormant when bought, and should be pruned at once. Cut back the growths on Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses from twelve to fifteen inches from the top of the pot, and prune Hybrid Perpetuals to five or six eyes. 78 GARDENING MADX EAST. Eyes are really the small speoks that may be aeen at the base of each leaf-stalk, and they give the nerr shoots. When pruning, the topmost eye in each shoot should look outward. By bending the shoots slightly outward, the starting into growth of the dormant eyes at the base is accelerated. Pruning Climbing Roses. — These are not pruned much. Simply cut off the soft, pithy ends of the growths, and then tie them to the roof, about fifteen inches from tlie glass. Another way is to twine the growths round four uticks stuck in the pot, and the dormant eyes or buds will be induced, by the check to the sap, to staort into growth. Many of these growths produce a bloom. Afterwards, — After pruning the bush plants, stand the pots on an inverted flower-pot as near the glass a» possible. Keep them rather dry at first, merely syringing overhead on fine mornings. When the new shoots begin to push out, give the plants a thorough watering with tepid water. Try to keep the soil in an even moist condition, neither too wet nor too dry. Air must be given very cautiously at all times, and inside the house should be sweet and buoyant. If artificial heat be given, a chink of air for an hour in the morning when the weather is sunny will help the Roses. Avoid a cold, cutting draught. The best temperature for pot Roses is one about 48° to 50° by night and 58° to 60° by day. On a sunny morning the glass will go to 70° or thereabouts, but this will not injure the plants. A lot of water must not be put on the floor, but syringe a little over the pipes and walls and paths. This should be done abooit 9 in the mooming when fine, but on cold, dull days none will be needed. We are supposing now that the Roses are to be grown with other plants j but if there is nothing else in the house, the temperature may be considerably lower. Roses may be grown without any artificial heat, and when this is the case give plenty of air during the day, but when the weather is cold, keep the side lights closed and the top ventilators shut down early in the afternoon. Grbenflv, Mildew, and Maggots. — Greenfly will appear when the foliage develops. As soon aa it is seen, fumigate the house with M'Dougairs XL AU sheets. One sheet is sufficient for 1,000 cubic feet. Hang one in the house, and run a light along the edge; it may then be left to bum out. Mildew is another trouble to the Rose-grower. Lysol has been recommended, and there is also Campbell's Vaporiser. Sulphur is simply boiled in this vaporiser, and the steam sent off into the house, so that every particle of the plant is covered with fine sulphur like the bloom on a grape. Mildew and sulphur fumes are sworn enemies. This vaporising is repeated about every fortnight, and a lad can work it. When the growth has advanced, small sticks may be used to tie out the shoots. Every leaf needs the sun, and the plants should be arranged accordingly. Stir the surface soil occasionally with a label, and give liquid manure about once a week as soon as the small flower-buds are seen. This '.iquid is made by putting, say, a bushel of cow manure into a large GARDENING MADE BASI?. 79 tub, and then fill the tub with water. Stir well for a day or two, and place in the tub a peck bag with some soot in it. When the liquor is somewhat clear, put one gallon of it to three gallons of water, and aa the buds swell it may be given in equal quantities, Maggots are often troublesome. When the flowers fade, rest th& plants a little by withholding water, and cut back the flowering shoots a few inches from their ends. A Second IhsPLAY ov Bloom is obtained in about ten weeks' time. The plants for this display will need liquid manure more frequently, as the pots now contain a lot of roots. Syringe the leaves well beneath the surface, to check red spider, which is a terrible pest. Moisture is deadly to it. If it is suffered to increase, the foliage becomes sickly and rusty, and soon drops off. Cultivation is similar to that required for the first display,- only the lengthening days will raise the temperature, and more air will be necessary. This should be given without causing a draught, and be careful that no sudden rush of outside air occurs. Begin to give air gradually, increasing it as the sun gains power. A damp atmosphere encourages black spot.. As the days lengthen and the buds show colour, shade the glass. A roller blind is best, but whitewash syringed on the glass will check the scorching effects of the sun, and will net seriously impede the light. Repot the plants after this second crop, and keep them under glass for about a month, when they may be placed outdoors and plunged in ashes for the summer. Varieties to Grow. — ^We recommend the following : — Climbers — C?liming Belle Siebrecht, Bouquet d'Or, Wm. Allen Richardson, Marechal Niel, Pranfois Crousse, Mme. Jules Gravereaux. Bush or Dwarf Plants — Caroline Testout, Frau Karl Druschki, Captain Hayward, La France, General Jacqueminot, Mrs. John Laing, Ulrich Brunner, Lady Battersea, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Lady Roberts, Anna Olivier, Mme. Hogte, Sunset, Niphetoe, Pharisaer, Liberty, Mme. Ravary. Budding Roses. This operation is very simple when the art has been acquired. The illustration represents a piece of Rose growth. At the base of each leaf-stalk is an eye, or leai-bud, which contains the germ of a new plant. To be successful in budding, this growth must be " ripe " — that is, it must have flowered, or be on the point of so doing. The growths first produced are the best to use for budding. They should be firm, and the spines or thorns be easily rubbed off. If the latter are soft and juicy, the wood is not ripe enough, but it is more important to see that the stocks " run well " that is, there should be an abundance of sap in the plant. In a very dry summer it is sometimes necessary to water the stocks a day or two before budding. Always bud the standard Briars first, for they cease to grow long before the dwarf stocks. The latter should be budded as cIoto to the root as possible, especially 80 GARDENING MADE EASY. if the plants are wanted for potting up. Standard Briars shoijJd be budded in July, and dwarf stocks during August. Insert the bud on dwarf stocks on the west side, if practicable. During the operation of budding, keep the shoots in a jar of water, previourfy cutting off the leaves, but retaining about half an inch of the leaf-stalk, so as to get a firm hold of the bud. Insert the knife in the shoot about one inch above the bud, as at B, fig 1- Cut thinly under the bark, and when past the bud rend it off. It will then appear as C and D, fig. 1. Hold the bud between the thumb and finger of the left hand, and with the point of the knife lift up the small slice of wood attached to the bark and jerk it Pig. 1. out. As a rule it comes out easily enough, leaving the germ of the bud intact. If this germ is missing, and there is a hole about the size of a pin head under the bud, it is waste of time to insert the bud. Some varieties behave in this way, and must be cut rather thinner than others. Before cutting off the bud, wipe the stock clean, and make a cut upwards and then crosswise, in shape like the letter T (see fig. 2, A, B). Do not cut so deeply as to injure the wood of the stock. Raise only the bark gently on each side of the long cut by inserting the bone of the budding knife. Then insert the bud at C, and gently push it down to the end of GARDENING MADE EASY. 81 PiQ. 2. the cut D. Many budders dispense with the cross cut, but it facilitates the insertion of the bud. When the bud is placed in position, cut o£F the surplus piece of bark, and bind up the wound tight (see E, fig. 2) with rafSa. When the soil is free from insect pests, draw up some of the finest mould to the bud so as to quite envelop it. This is essential in a dry season. A month after budding, remove the soil, examine the bud, and, if found alive (which can be easily seen from where the leaf-stalk was attached, but which has now decayed), return the soil again and leave it until spring. Do not touch the tops of stocks until after the leaf has fallen, and not then unless they are wanted for cuttings. The time to remove them is in February. They are then cut quite away to within one inch of the bud. Seedlings Briars are budded in the collar — that is, the thick root immediately below the branches. Budding Standard Briars. — These are budded in the best lateral growths, but close up to the upright stem. Two or more sorts may be budded on one standard, but they should agree in growth — for instance. La France (pink) and Alfred Colomb (red) would associate well together. In the csise of the standards, remove the raffia after the fourth week, but do not cut away any of the growths until February. When the budi start out (as they often will, and blossom), leave them until autumn, and then cut back to one eye. Retain the Raffia on dwarf stocks; the soil will rot it off before February. Dwarf Roses for Town Gardens. — Among the Dwarf or Bush Roses that give satisfaction are : — Viscountess Folkestone, Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. R. Gr. Sharman-Crawford, Tom Wood, Mrs. J. Laing, La France, Mrs. Rumsey, Clio, Mme. Jules Grolea (a delightful Rose, and very free), Gustave Regis, Grace Darling, Hon. Edith 82 GABDEKTINQ MADE EASY. Gilford, Frau Karl Druschki, Caroline Testout, Mm. G. Dickson, Duke of Edinburgh, and Dupuy Jamain. Griiss an Teplitz is a free- groiwing and flowering Bo«e, and does well as a pillar Roee; the young foliage ia very handsome — a rich bronze colour. Alister Stella Gray, Dr. Rougei, and Gloire de Dijon do not seem to object to a uuoky atmosphere. Own-Root Roses. Autumn is the time to insert cuttings of the hardier groups, but the more tender Roses, such as the Tea^scented and Monthly, root better in summer, though even these may be inserted in autumn. The following is a brief description of the ways generally adopted in raising own-root Roses: — Select a plot of ground in the open garden, not under hedges or walls, as ia so often advised. If the soil is heavy, trench it about two feet deep, incorporating at the same time plenty of drift sand or burnt garden refuse. If the soil be light, deep digging will suffice. No manure is required. What is wanted is a fairly heavy soil, yet free from stagnation. The soil being made ready, the next thing ia to prepare the cuttings. These should consist of the current season's growth, well ripened, and if possible with a " heel " of the last year's wood. When we say current season's growth, we mean that which was first produced this season. The second growth is quite useless, as it is not ripe. Smooth over the " heel " with a sharp knife. The cuttingB may vary in length from six to twelve inches, but if possible secure them of the latter length; then one may plant them deeper, where they are more removed from outside influences. Do not remove any eyes, as frequently those at the base will throw up growths even when the tops are injured by frost. We prefer first to prepare the soil and plant aftearwards, even allowing gome days to elapse between, as then the soil settles down. As the making of the cuttings pro- ceeds, they may be tied up in bundles and covered over temporarily with soil. When planting, mark out beds three feet wide, and plant in rows nine inches to twelve inches apart. The cuttings may be about two inches apart in the rows. Some dibble them in, but we prefer making a trench the depth of the cuttings, and thus ensure the base of the latter resting on the soil. If an inch or so of good rooting material, such as sand or old cocoanut fibre, be placed at the bottom of this trench, this considerably assists the rooting process. When the cuttings are placed in position, dig the soil up to them, tread very firmly, and tben cut down another trench, and BO on. It will be seen by this that the cutting is entirely buried, but this is not important unless they are fully mx inches in the soil. Cuttings of Tea and China Roses, if made in autumn, shotild be inserted round the sides of five-inch pots of sandy soil, and placed in a cold frame. They will emit roots if placed on a gentle bottom-heat in spring. As to varieties: all the smooth-wooded sorts of Hybrid Perpetual Roses root freely; and GABDENINO MADE EASY. 83 m fact, almost any Bort will do ao< when well-ripened wood is inserted. Soft, pithy wood is useless. A few varieties we have found to succeed well are Victor Verdier, Captain Christy, Pride of Waltham, Charies Lefebvre, John Hopper, Ulrich Brunner, General Jacqueminot, Baroness Rothschild, Jules Margottin, Dr. Andry, Franfois Michelon, Mrs. John Laing, Etienne Levet, Prince C. de Rohan, Crown Prince, La Prance, Augustine Guinoisseau, Margaret Dickson, Clio, Paul Neyron, Helen Keller, Jeannie Dickson, Mrs. W. J. Grant, Heinrich Schultheis. The Hardy Ramblers, Rugosa Rosea, Lord Penzance's Sweet Briars, most of the species and single Roses also root most readily. The Tesrscented, Hybrid Teas, Chinese, and Polyanthas will all grow freely from cuttings. For autumn insertion, as described, procure the cuttings, if possible, from pot-grown plants, otherwise only insert wood from outside or wall plants that can be obtained thoroughly ripe. There is much to be said for own-root Roses, and several experiments we have made have resulted in plants of sxupriaing vigour on their own roots, whereas those grafted were, in comparison, a failure. Marie van Houtte on its own roots was very fine. Pot-Poupr>i of Roses. The simplest recipe for Potpourri of Roses alone is to be found in "Home and Garden" (Longmans): — "Put alternate layers of Rose leaves and bay salt in any quantity you please in an earthen pot. Press down with a plate, and pour off the liquor that will be produced, every day for six weeks, taking care to press aa dry as possible. Let the mass be broken up, and add the following in- gredients, well pounded and mixed together : nutmeg, J oz. ; cloves, mace, cinnamon, gum benzoin, orris-root (sliced), 1 oz. each. Mix well with a wooden ^oon. The Rose leaves should be gathered on a dry, sunny afternoon, and the bay salt roughly crushed before using. Orris-roots may be replaced with advantage by good violet powder." CHAPTER VI. The GrieenhousGi This is a term of wide application. It is used for a structure from which in winter frost is just excluded — say, where a lowest minimum of 40° rising to 50° is maintained — or one in which throughout the winter the temperature ranges from 45° or 50° to 60°. Those two houses are available, as may well be understood, for quite different classes of tender plants, for in the first-named a great many plants, such as Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Heliotrope, Tuberous Begonias, and similar things may pass the winter. Very few flowers can be obtained in such a structure at that season, the warmer structure being necessary for their development. The Colder Geeenhouse. — This may be readily kept bright for nine months of the year — that is, from the middle of February to the same period of November. At the first-named season various bulbous plants that were potted during the preceding autumn, placed out of doors, and with the advent of the New Year, or even earlier, according to their development, taken under glass, will be in flower. Among these may be mentioned Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, Scillas, etc. Soon after this, various hardy shrubs, tiie Lyre Flower or Bleeding Heart {Dielytra spectabilis), Azaleas, Idly of the Valley, Chinese Primulas, Persian Cyclamen, are plants that will expand their flowers. By the time they are passed, the numerous summer flowers begin to open. From June until Sep- tember there is no trouble whatever in maintaining a display, after which it will be necessary to depend principally upon Chrysanthe^ mums. To make a bright display at that period, the scarlet-flowered Salvia splendens and the bright blue S. Pitcheri are particularly valuable. With regard to the management of such a structure throughout the year, a convenient time to begin will be Jjinuary. A Yeae in the Greenhouse. — At the beginning of the year the bedding plants and such things are practically dormant, and they consequently require very little water, only sufficient, in fact, to keep the soil slightly moist. By this is meant, not to give driblets of water, but to make sure that it is needed before any is given, and then let it be sufficient to moisten the ball of soil thoroughly. After this give no water until the soil is dry. Such things as bulbous plants. Azaleas, Chines© Primulas, and other subjects that are de- aARCGNIMa HADE EA8^. 86 veloping their flowers, will need more water, but at the same tim* it must not be overdone. Of the different bedding plants, Zonal Pelargoniums, or, as they are more generally called, " Geraniums," are particularly apt to " damp " or rot off in the depth of winter, especially if they have been kept rather wet. To prevent this as far as possible, not only should the watering be carefully done, but the plants placed in as light a position as can be found, while, when the weather is mild, a free circulation of air is very beneficial. One important point, too, is the removal of any signs of decay that may appear on the foliage, for one decaying leaf will contaminate many others. Absolute cleanhness is essential. As the season advances, more air and water will, of course, be required. With the return of spring, coddling must be especially guarded against, for if kept too close and shaded at that season, an attenuated growth and conse- quent liability to insect pests is sure to result. The Season Advances — Shading the House. — On the first ap- pearance of greenfly, or, in fact, any other pests, particularly slugs, the house should be at once vaporised with the XL All Vaporiser. At that season these insects increase rapidly and inflict irredeemable damage. A slight shade for summer-flowering plants is essential, and the best arrangement is a roller blind, which can be drawn up when it is not wanted. Still, this cannot always be managed, in which case some kind of permanent shading must be adopted. Various methods are used. In some instances light canvas is tacked on, while in others the glass is painted with a material to break the rays of the sun. Of the various preparations the best is known as " Summer Cloud." It can be readily obtained, with instructions for its use, from any nurseryman. Whatever shading is used, it must be lightly applied, otherwise the plants will become very weak. Ventilation and Liquid Manure. — Plenty of air is required during the summer months, for at that period the outside tempera- ture is sufiicient for the occupants of the greenhouse, and conse- quently the ventilators should be open night and day. Of course, at that season the plants will all require more water than_ in winter, for not only is the weather drier, but the roots are active, and with a full burden of leaves combined with flowers a greater amount of nourishment is necessary. Liquid manure, or s&me of the highly concentrated plant foods now so popular, are then of great use— that is, of course, if the plants are well supplied with roots. A mistake often made by the beginner is that of gmng stimulants at unsuitable times, for such help is only needed when the plants are very active. . . ., , Syringing is also necessary, but it requires care. While plants in general are greatly benefited during hot weather by being sprayed upon from overhead twice a day, the water, as a rule, should be kept off the flowers, and when, as often happens, almost all the plants in the structure are in bloom, it is better not to syringe. The floor, stages, and any open space, should be damped with a fine rose, as m S way considerable humidity is set up, a condition of things very helpful to plants in general. 88 GAHDENIHG MADE EAST. The Greenhouse in Autumn and Winter. — When autumn sets in, and the various tender plant« axe taken to the greenhouse, great care should be eixercised to see that they are not kept too warm. After having been outdoors so long, there is a tendency for them to start into growth when they are removed under glass, whereas the aim »hould be to keep them as quiet as possible, consistent with safety from froBt. Taking next The Fs'ames. The amateur interested in his garden will require a structure of some sort to either protect his plants or bring them earlier into bloom than happens in the open garden. It may be used also to strike cuttings or raise seeds, and the simplest form of house is that known as the Cold Frame, which is a shallow wooden box, which may be anything from eighteen inches to two feet at ths back and a foot to eighteen inches at the front. In this way the glazed lights which are made to fit on the top and thus form the roof of the miniature greenhouse have sufficient slope to carry off the rain, and this is of the greatest importance. Nothing is more detrimental to the health of a plant than an overabundance of moisture, which drops from the glass to the leaf and quickly brings about decay. The best position for a frame of this kind is one facing due south, or, at all events, where it will get a large measure of sun- light. The plot of ground selected for standing the frame upon should be well coated with fine coal ashea and very firm and level, and the object of this is to keep out worms. Having placed the frame in position, put a few more fine ashes in it, and this will raise the floor, so to say, above the surrounding level. A frame of this kind can be readily made with a few boards, but so many horti- cultural builders make a speciality of this work that it is hardly worth the trouble of constructing one at home. Span-roof frames are equally good, but, of course, somewhat more expensive. Plants to Grow in the Cold Frame. — A large number of plants may be grown in this simple little structure, but perhaps the best use to which it can be put is for the growth of various hardy flowers, which, with the amount of protection thus given, anticipate by some time the natural time of flowering, and bring the sweetness of spring into the dull days of winter. Many of the ordinary bulbous plants, such as Daffodils, if potted in September, may be kept in the frame, and be in bloom soon after Christmas. Among the things available for this treatment may be mentioned the Daffodils, Hyacinths (especially the sweat little Roman variety, which has flowers of purest white), Tulips (the early-flowering Due van Thol in particular), the bright blue Siberian Scilla (S. sibirica), the equally attractive C. sardensis, Crocuses — ^in fact, all early-flowering bulbs are hastened into bloom through this protection. The bulbous Irises, such as I. persica, I. reticulata, and I. Histrio, all succeed well with ordinary care. We once saw a lot of I. Histrio flowering in a cold frame. GARDENING MADE EAST. 87 They had been potted up about the end of September, and rapidly developed flowers. Rose», too, are very beautiful when treated in this way, and the little hardy Cyclamen makes a bright feature. Many other flowers are also available, and the owner of a garden will soon find a frame extremely handy for many purposes, such as to occasionally nurse a sickly plant into health, to protect any that have been divided until their roots recover from the check, and to shield tiny seedlings, or to strike a few cuttings. When the various bulbous plants above enumerated are out of flower, the frame will then be available for plants that bloom during the summer, and by the middle of April, Tuberous Begonias may be potted and placed in it, and different tender plants, such as Geraniums and Fuchsias, will be quite safe, if the precaution is taken of throwing a mat or two over the glass at night. If there is no greenhouse, Tuberous Begonias may be potted out and grown into large plants with the protection of a frame, or it may be given up during summer for propagating, as many plants will strike root readily under such con- ditions at that season. For cuttings of all kinds, except those of Geraniums, it will be necessary to shade the frame from the sun's rays. Throughout the winter, a covering of mats over the glass at night, and even all day when frost prevails, will be very helpful, and it is a great assistance to bank up the frame all round with long stable manure, or some good protective, in order to prevent the frost penetrating the boards at the sides. A Hotbed. If desired, a hotbed may be made up in spring, and the frame placed on it, in which case it will be available for more tender plant*, such as the raising of seeds of Tomatoes, Vegetable Marrows, Cucumbers, and similar things, as well aa the striking of cuttings of different bedding plants that require a little warmth. A hotbed may be formed of stable manure, fallen leaves, grass, or any similar matter. The whole must be turned over and well mrsed together on alternate days, four or five times. In making up the bed it should be at least a yard wider all round than the frame which is to stand upon it, and a thickness of three feet to four feet is necessary, otherwise, if too shallow, the heat soon declines. In turning over the materials before making up the hotbed, they should be watered if too dry ; and in forming it, the whole must be trodden down firmly and evenly in order to maintain the proper temperature. All rank steam must be allowed to pass away before the seeds or plants are placed in the frame, and to assist this a little air may be left on night and day until all danger is over. A layer of ashes or cocoanut fibre refuse may be placed in the frame to stand the pots "^Greenhouse or Conservatory attached to I>welling-house^A greenhouse, often dignified by the title of " conservatory, mthout any arrangement whatever for "heating, is frequently attached to a 88 GABDENINQ MADE EASY. dwelling-house, and is usually badly placed for light ajid air. It is built more for appearance' sake than for plajit-growing. Where the so-called conservatory is in a shady place, as too ofteB happens, there is nothing that will give so much satisfaction as a collection of the more vigorous hardy ferns, and in this way we have seen a house that was a complete failure for the cultivation of flowering plants made quite charming by the cultivation of the robuster hardy ferns. Where the conservatory is favourably situated with regard to light and air, so that flowering plants may be readily grown, frost can be excluded by one of the several oil stoves in the market, especially made for heating greenhouses. Popular Gi — cutting-pot in section; A, drainage; i, rougher parts of compost on moss ; i, soil ; fc, surfacing of silver sand — about quarter-inch ; \, cuttings properly inserted, a hole being made with finger or dibble^ and soil or sand made firm about it but not damaging the 100 GARDENING MADE EASY. moderate amount of shade during the hottest part of the day. In winter the leaves fall, when tEe soil may be kept almost dry, but not parched up. Fuchsias may be stored anywhere safe from frost, but directly signs of growth appear, remove them to a light position on the stage of the greenhouse. The Best Fuchsias are: — Single dark — Abel Kader, Abun- dance, Champion, Charming, Elegance, Gertrude Pearson, Lord Byron, President, Royal Purple, Scarcity, Valiant, Wave of Life. Single light — Beauty of Trowbridge, Lady Hesterbury, Lustre, Lady Doreen Long, Minnie Banks, Eose of Caatile Improved, Princess May. Single white corolla — ^De Goncourt, Delight, Flower de Neige, Toumefort. Single orange-tinted corolla — Earl of Beacons- field, Mrs. Runbell, Prince of Orange, Swaley Yellow. Single self white flower — Countess of Aberdeen. Double dark — A. de Neuville, Avalanche, Champiou of the World, Comte Leon Tolstoi, Doris, La France, M. Alphand, Marvellous, Phenomenal. Double white corolla — Ballet Girl, Due d'Aumale, Duchess of Edinburgh, Frau Emma Topfer, Mme. Jules Chretien, Mme. Carnot. Cherry Pie or Heliotrope. — The fragrance of this flower is well known. It is a general favourite both in the greenhouse and out of doors. It requires much the same attention as the Fuchsia, except that it must be kept somewhat warmer during the winter months, otherwise the leaves are apt to be attacked with mildew, which causes many of them to shrivel. The beet varieties are Presi- dent Garfield, mauve^purple j Priapo, blue with a white eye; Rod des Noirs, maroon-purple; and White Lady, nearly white. Hydrangeas for the Greenhouse.-— In the milder parts of the country the Hydrangea may be regaj:ded as an outdoor shrub, but in any case it is valuable in the greenhouse. When grown in large pots or tubs is is usually placed on a balcony or similar position, while the smaller plants can be put in the greenhouse. A favourite way of growing it is with short stem carrying a huge head of bloom. To obtain these, the stoutest shoots, such as would be stem, and making sure that base of the cutting rests on the soil or sand. E — section of 4-inch pot showing proper potting-off of stout, well-rooted cutting ; m, drainage ; n, soil ; o, ball of soil and roots secured by turning cuttings out of cutting-pot and breaking up baU so as to retain some soil to each cutting and all the roots, pressing the soil moderately firm under and about roots; p, space for holding water in watering. F — a plant from a cuttiM established in a 4-inch pot and arrived at stopping stage, if not naturally disposed to push side growths : g, point of topping. G — a stopped plant shifted from 4-inoh into 6-incn pot; r, drainage (good if plant intended to flower in that size); s, rougher parts of compost; t, soil (as advised for potting-o£E, but turfy loam router); u, ball of soil and roots, the potting firm ; v, space for holding water in watering ; w, leading shoot ; x, shoot pinched at same level as leader and to be stopped to one joint. H — a flowering shoot of Fuchsia not suitable for a cutting. Outtings of Fuchsias strike readily in a greenhouse, covered with a befl- glass wiped daily inside, or in a close frame in summer. Spring-struck outtings make fine plants for late summer flowering, or, hardened ofE, are smtable for bedding. GARDENING MADE EASY. JQl sure to follow if left on the plant, are taken as cuttings about July, put singly mto small pots, and when well rooted shifted into thofi^ five inches across. Apart from the common Hydrangea there is a vanety: Thomaa Hogg, white; Nigra, with blackish bush to the young stems and fine heads of bloom; stellata prolifera, double: and variegata, leaves freely marked with white. The Balsam.— At one time the Balsam was much grown, but it is rarely seen now though this is a pity. There is much interest in the big Msette-hke flowers which crowd thickly on the succulent stems ihe Balsam is raised from teed sown in gentle heat in spring and the young plants, potted in rich soil, are encouraged to grow freely m a light and airy house. This is the way to obtain fine sturdy plants which will flower for a long time. The Lantana, so much used for bedding in the garden has flattened clusters of flowers, suggesting tho«e of a Verbena. It has grown considerably in favour of late years, and will bloom from spring till autumn. Treat the Lantana much in the same way as the Fuchsia. The best varieties are Chelsea Gem, amber and crimson; Distinction, orange-scarlet; Don Calmet, pink; Drap d'Or, yellow; La Neige, white; and Magenta King, purplish. Sow the seed in early spring under glass, as recommended in the case of the Verbena. The Lobelia.— During recent years a rather tall Lobelia named L. tenuior has been grown, and it is a very pretty flower for the greenhouse. The flowers appear for a long time in summer, and are of a charming cobalt blue in colour. Seed is readily obtainable, and should be sown in gentle heat in spring, and the aeedlings pricked off, as soon as they are large enough to handle, in boxes or pans, and after that transferred to the pots in which they are to flower. Six to eight plants in pots five inches across make good specimens. Soil suitable for Geraniums will suffice. The Marguerite. — This is now a general favourite, and it has the advantage of being very easily grown and extremely free. Old plants that have been wintered in the greenhouse will, early in the new year, push out young shoots, and when these are two inches long they form suitable cuttings. Dibble them into pots of sandy soil, keep close, and they will soon strike. When sufficiently rooted pot them off singly into small pote, and after a few days pinch out the top of each to encourage bushy growth. Then shift them into 5- and 6-inch pots, and they will gi-ow and flower for a long time. A tiny grub attacks the leaves. (See Insect Pests.) The Common Musk. — A common plant, known by the fragrance of its foliage, and the yellow flowers are also very pretty. Harri- son's Musk has larger and showier blooms, but there is less of the true musk-like perfume. The spotted kinds of Mimulus are very handsome when the plants are grown in pots. Sow the seed in early spring, and grow on the young plants until they are in 4- or 5-inch pots. All the Mimuluses or " Monkey Flowers " require plenty of water at the root, but not stagnant moisture. 102 OA&DHNING MADS EASY. The Myrtle.— A well-known shrub, with fragrant leaves and white flowers. It is quite hardy in the South of England, but must be grown in a greenhouse in the North. It makes an attractive tub plant, and will often remain for years without repotting if given a mixture of soot-water and liquid manure occasionally during the summer. The Oleander.— This is a willow-like shrub which flowers as a. rule during July and August. The great point is to keep the soil moist and give as much light as possible. Tbe ordinary Oleander has rose-coloured flowers, but there are many varieties, some with double bloom*. Pelargonium.— There is a great variety of Pelargoniums, popu- larly called " Geraniums " in our gardens, and each section requires distinct treatment. Perhaps the most universally grown are the Zonal Pelargoniums or " Geraniums " — that is to say, those so generally used for bedding-out during summer. Take the cuttings in summer, and they will root readily in a greenhouse from the end of February until the end of August, whilst in summer they will root out of doors. Old plants that have been wintered in the green- house and are straggling may be shortened back about the end of February. Insert the cuttings in pots of sandy soil, and directly the old plants begin to push out new shoots, shake them free of the ecshausted soil and repot. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, dry cow manure, and silver sand will suit these Pelargoniums perfectly. Where a winter temperature of 50° to 60° is maintained, these plants have becoone very popular for flowering at that season. To obtain good flowering plants for the winter, the cuttings are struck in spring and grown on during summer in a spot freely exposed to the sun out of doors, all flowers being picked off until the end of August. Pots from five to six inches in diameter will be large enough for these plants, which in winter need a light structure and a fairly dry atmosphere. A selection of the best varieties is as follows: — Salmon — Mrs. C. Pearson, Mrs. C. Cadbury, Queen of Italy. Pink — Mrs. Williams, Mrs. Brown Potter, Mrs. Toogood. White — Snowdon, The Ghost. Scarlet — Lord Strathcona, T. Bevan. Crimson — Duke of Norfolk, Percy Waterer, Scott Turner. Cerise — General Wolseley, Hall Caine, J. M. Barrie. With Cyclope, purple and white; Iris, purple-crimson; and Prince of Orange, a yellow shade. Double-flffwered varieties of this class are admired by many, and the best are: — Scarlet — California, Easpail Improved, Turtle's Surprise. Salmon — Daubray, Madeleine Leroaire, Lady Candahar. White — Miss G. Ashworth, Hermoine. Pink — Bertha de Presilly, Pink Easpail. Crimson — Colussus, Double Jacoby. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums.— In addition to their great value for flowering as pot plants in the greenhouse. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are useful for furnishing a wall or a pillar, and those of a trailing habit for banging baskets. The soil, instructions for propagating, and other matters just given for Zonal Pelargoniums apply to this GARDENING MADE EASY, 103 section Good varieties are : Achieveiiienb, soft salmon-pink; Beauty ot Castle Hill, rose; Leopard, lilao-pink blotched with crimson; Lordens Glory, light scarlet; Giroflee, magentarpurple ; Princess Victoria, pale lilac ; Souv. de Charles Turner, deep pink and maroon, perhaps the most popular of all ; The Queen, soft salmon ; Galilee, nch rose; Mme. Crousse, silvery pink; Lamartine, orange-scarlet. Show, Decorative, and Fancy Pelargoniums.— These were at one time grown almost to the exclusion of other groups, but are rarely seen now. They cannot be grown so easily as the other sections. Scented-leaved Pelargoniums.— A very interesting section, and easily grown in the greenhouse, much in the same way as the ordinary Geranium. The best are : Clorinda, capitatum, crispum, denticulatum, Duchess of Devonshire, Dale Park Beauty, Fair Ellen, Little Gem, Pretty Polly, Radula, Unique, and Tomentosum. The Petunia. — The Petunias form a very pretty race, easily grown, and the single and semi-double varieties can be readily raised from seed, while the very double ones are usually increased from cuttings. These are taken from the old planti which have been wintered in the greenhouse, and in February are put, if possible, into a slightly warmer structure. This will result in new shoots being put forth, and when these are about two inches long they may be taken off and treated as recommended for Fuchsias. Seed sown early in March germinates quickly, and after the seedlings are pricked off into pans or boxes they can be potted into small pots, shifting them afterwards into 5- or 6-inch pots, in which they will flower. Petunias require plenty of feeding. A little dry cow manure may be mixed with the soil in potting, and as the pots get full of roots a little liquid manure occasionally will be beneficial. The Phyllocactus- — This family includes some of the showiest member! of the Cactus family. The plants may, with ordinary care, be depended upon to flower year after year. Although the indi- vidual flowers do not last long, a long succession is maintained. They need principally a soil composed of loam and sand, while a Ught position in the greenhouse is best for them. If the plants need repotting, do this immediately after flowering; but if in good con- dition they will stand for two or three years without being disturbed at the roots. During the winter these Cacti require just sufiicient water to keep the soil slightly moist, but at other times more is needed. The Plumbago. — P. capensis is a free-growing plant that loses most of its leaves in winter, but with the return of spring young shoots are quickly produced. The clusters of light blue flowers appear throughout the summer and well on into autumn. It is a charming plant for training up the pillar or wall of a green- house, and also succeeds well out of doors in summer. The Chinese Primrose.— Several members of the Primula family are delightful greenhouse plants, the most popular being the Chinese Primrose (Primula sinensis), which is easily raised from seed sown 104 GARDENING MADE EAST. in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand. Being small, the seed will need only a slight covering of soil, but a pane of glass may be laid over the top until the seed germinates. It should then be taken to a shaded part of the greenhouse. The yormg plants must, when large enooigh, be potted into small pots, and if there is an outdoor frame available, this is a very good place for them then. The moat vigorous may be shifted into their flowering pots — ^five inches in diameter — before autumn, while if the potting of the others is delayed until the new year, a succession is ensured. Though the roots must not be allowed to get too dry, the plant* need careful watering at all seasons. For the final shift, one part of dry cow manure mixed with the other soil will be beneficial. The stellata, or Star Primulas as they are called, form a section of the Chinese Frimulsus characterised by taller groiwth and smaller flowers. They are more graceful than the other types. Besides the Chinese Primula there are several very pretty sorts which the beginner can grow. The little golden-yellow P. floritaunda flowers throughout the year ; so also does P. obconica, which varies from white to deep rose. The Arum Lily, or, The Lily of the Nile.— This is known as Bichardia sethiopica. It has been long a popular greenhouse plant, and has large heart-shaped leaves and trumpet-like spathes — they are not true flowers — ^which are most appreciated during autumn, winter, and early spring. To obtain them at that season, the old plants should be placed outdoors in June and given little if any water. This will cause the leaves to die off and the plants to go more or less to rest. Towards the end of July turn the plants out of the pots, shake quite clear of the old soil, and repot. The size of the pot will depend lipon the vigour of the plant, as they often form large clumps, but a good single crown will need a pot at least six inches across. They require a rich soil composed of equal parts of loam and well-decayed cow majiure in a dry state, with a little silver sand. After potting, the plants may be placed out of doors, giving little water at first, but as they start into growth more will be needed. Aa the leaves develop a considerable quantity is required. They must, of course, be taken into the greenhouse before autumn frosts set in. The yellow-" flowered " R. Elliottiana and B. Pentlandi flower in spring and early siimmer, after which they perfect their growth and pass the winter in a quite dormant state. They must then be kept quite dry, and in February shaken clear of the old soil and repotted, burying the tubers at such a depth that the upper part is a little more than an inch below the surface of the soil. Keep the Richardias free from aphides, which often attack them. The Salvia. — Many of the Salvias are useful in the greenhouse especially those that flower during autumn and winter. The best of them are : S. splendens, scarlet ; S. azurea grandiflora or Pitcheri, blue; S. Bethelii, pink; S. rutilans, red, the leaves Pine-apple scented; and 8. gesneriseflora, scarlet. These are struck from cuttings of the young growing shoots in spring, potted out as they GARDENING MADE EASY. 105 require it, and in summer placed out of doors and treated much in the same way as the Chrysanthemum. To ensure bushy specimens, stop the young plants two or three times during their earlier stages. For the final potting give pots six to eight or even ten inches in diameter. _ The Schizanthus- — Very pretty annuals for the greenhouse, with brightly coloured flowers. The various forms of 8. pinnatus will grow a yard or more high, and with the smaller S. Wisetonensis are the best for the purpose. Seeds to give early -flowering plants should be sown in July, and the plants wintered in small pots in the cool greenhouse, shifting them into 5- or 6-inch pots early in the year. A second sowing in February will form a good succession to these. Fairly good soil is necessary. If assisted with an occasional dose of liquid manure, these will flower throughout the summer. Winter Cherry {Solanum Capsicastrum). — The bright red berries of this plant make it valuable for the greenhouse during winter. Seeds are readily raised, but »mall plants in 5-inch pots are gener- ally preferred, on the ground that they fruit more readily when small than as seedlings. When in bloom give them a light and airy position in order to set the berries. Cuttings taken in spring root as readily as a Fuchsia under the same conditions. Spiraea japouica- — A popular greenhouse plant flowering during spring. All that is necessary is to pot up the clumps in autumn, stand them in a sheltered place, and water when necessary. Then, in the new year, take them to the greenhouse, and let them come into flower gradually. The Streptocarpus.— A pretty group of flowering plants, forming a tuft of spreading leaves, from whence flower spikes varying from white to red and purple are pushed up. They are readily raised from seed, usually sown in a temperature of 55° to 65°. Loam, leaf- mould, and sand, all broken up and well mixed together, form a tuitable compost for them. When sown, give a slight sprinkling of silver sand over the surface, and place a pane of glass on the top. Then stand them in a shady comer of the greenhouse, and wipe the glass each morning to prevent damp. When large enough to handle, the young plants must be pricked out into pots or pans. Afterwards they may be potted singly into small pots, in which they will pass the winter, or those that have made good headway may have a shift into pots five inches in diameter to flower in. The majority may, however, well be left until the spring of the second year Throughout the summer they will need no fire-heat. During winter these Streptocarpi may be kept in a house where a minimum temperature of 45° is maintained, and at that season the_ plants should be given sufficient water to keep them fresh, but special care is neoeesaiT to guard against over-watering. In spnng they may be shifted into 5- or 6-inch pots, according to their vigour, and .m *^VaUotaUurp«^ea. -This has showy red flowers in autumn. Aftei flowering it continues to grow, and in summer partially rests, b^t H 106 GAEDENINS MADE EASY. at no time does it go quite dormant. If the roots are in good con- dition it will not need repotting every year, but when that is neces- sary let it be done immediately the flowers are over. Loam and sand form the best soil. Verbena. — Since the introduction of the beautiful rose-coloured variety Miss Wilmott, Verbenas have become more poipular for the i;reenhouse. They strike root readily from cuttings in spring, and may be treated much in the same way as the Geranium. Many lovers of this beautiful and fascinating family of floiwerB are prevented from attempting their culture on the grooind that they are an extremely difficult class of plants to manage, requiring special houses and special treatment in order to succeed with them. This certainly holds good with many kinds, but on the other hand there is a large number which require very simple culture. Included among them are some of the cheapest and most beautiful. In beginning their culture, the first important matter for consideration is the Structure in which they are to be grown : if a new one is to be built, the most suitable dimensions for it; and if one already eixists, the best use that can be made oi it. A span-roof structure in a good light position is the most desirable; and if it is intended to build one, a width of ten feet inside is the best, as this will allow of stages on either side three feet six inches in width, and a central path nearly a yard wide. The walls should have movable ventilators fixed at intervals, as in this way the heat from the hot-water pipes can be reduced if necessary; and if the walls are built three feet six inches high, space is left for upright sashes eighteen inches high on the top, which, with six inches allowed for the plates in addition, will give a height to the eaves of five feet. If the height to the apex of the roof is nine feet, this will allow the roof itself to be at an angle of 45°, which is sufficiently steep to prevent much drip. The stages may be made of slates supported by T-irons, as the material is quite imperishable. On this must be put some coating to hold the moisture. Fine coke is used by many, as it is of a porous nature and holds the water well ; but small shingle is also very good. The plants must not be placed directly on this material, but either raised on inverted pots or on a false stage made about six inches above the other. This will allow the shingle on the lowermost one to be readily damped, which could not be done if the plants were placed directly on it. Ventilation may be effected by hinged sashes at intervals along the apex of the roof, and shading by roller or lath blinds is essential. Three pipes, four inches in diameter, on edtiher side of the house will give plenty of heat, as it is better to have the pipes warm than very hot, the excessive heat in this last-named case being very injurious. Where there is an ordinary greenhouse, it may with a little altera^ OABDENINQ MADE EASY. 107 tion be made suitable for the more easily grown Orchids. The side lights need not be opened, the »tagea may with little trouble be altered as above advised, and for intermediate-house Orchids, which may be recommended with complete confidence to the beginner, three pipes on either side will be necessary. Tempebatueb. — Though some cool and some hot-house kinds of Orchids are easily grown, the two cannot be associated successfully in the same structure; and where the beginner starts with a single house, those needing an intermediate temperature give, we think, the greatest variety. In this, which is often spoken of as the Cattleya housei, a minimum winter temperature of 50° should be maintained, rising with sun-heat to 10° or 15° more. As the sun- heat advances, the normal rise in temperature will, of course, take place. Soil and Treatment. — As Orchids, which are naturally Epiphytes — that is, live above the ground — obtain the greater part of their nourishment in the shape of moisture, it is evidemt that the compost used must be considered in the light of a mechanical support rather than as a stimulating medium. Such being the case, the chief con- sideration is a substance into which the roots can enter freely and at the same time contains in suspension the needful amoimt of moisture. Close masses of soil must, above all, be avoided, as the large, fleshy roots speedily decay when they enter such a compost. Of course, some are less particular in thip respect than others, but these general remarks apply more or less to all. For the majority of Epiphytal Orchids the pots should be filled half-way with broken crocks and charcoal, and the actual potting medium should coosisi of good fibroas peat and Sphagnum moss; two parts of the first tc one of the moss is a good general mixture. Before it is used the moss should be thoroughly picked over, as many weeds naturally grow with it, and, once they take hold in the Orchid pots, are difficult to eradicate. Potting. — In potting Orchids, any roots that have a tendency to decay must be thoroughly examined and the diseased parts cut away. The actual operation is as f ollows : — Take a clean pot, fill it half full with broken crocks and charcoal mixed, then over this place a layer of Sphagnum (this will prevent earthy particles washing down amongst the roots), then put in a little prepared mixture, and after that the plant, working the lumps of peat and moss well among the roots until all is finished. When this has been done, the soil at the edge should be just below the rim of the pot, with a very slight rise to the plant in the centre. Then dibble a few points of fresh Sphagnum over the surface, as these will grow and take off an otherwise bare appearance. Two things to avoid particularly are over-potting and burying the plant too deeply in the soil, as the last is ultimately fatal. Cattleyas and Orchids with creeping stems should be potted at such a depth that the stem is just. level with the After F'otting, the quantity of water needed wiU depend to a 108 OABDENINO MADE ZASY. o«ort»m e3d»iit upon the requirements of the particular kind and its condition, but care must be taken not to over-water, though atmofipheric moisture and, if the season be spring or summer, light syringings will be very helpful. Newly potted plants, too, need more shading than those established ; but as a general rule Orchids sboiuld be shaded whenever the sun is bright. As atmospheric moisture is so beneficial, various means may be resorted to in order to keep up a certain humidity. Thus, apart from the arrangement of the stag© as mentioned above, all the floor surface may be damped when shutting up in the afternoon. No particular season can be assigned for potting all the different Orchids, but April and May are suitable to many. Those that bloom in summer should not be potted before the flowers are over. Rain-water is essential for watering Orchids. Belgian leaf-mould is largely used by many growers for potting Orchids, often with very good results ; but with this compost it is necessary to be far more careful in watering, on which account it is not suitable in the case of beginners, unless the Orchids belong to the Cypripedium or Lady Slipper family, which enjoy a mixture of this leaf-mould with the ordinary compost alluded to above. Insect Pests. — Many Orchids sxe somewhat liable to the attacks of thrips, which can be readily destroyed by vaporing with the XL All Vaporiser. Woodliee, by eating the points of the aerial roots, often do much damage, but they are readily trapped by cutting some potatoes in half, partially hollowing them out, and laying them on the stages hollow side downwards. Into these the woodliee will collect, and if looked over every morning and destroyed they will soon disappear. Cockroaches, too, often inflict similar damage to the roots, and in addition they are particularly fond of eating the flowers of Cattleyas, but they can easily be got rid of by means of phosphorus paste in one of ite many forms. Slugs are occasion- ally troublesome, and must be sought for at night by the light of a candle. If Scale attack Cattleyas, which they sometimes do, it will be necessary to dislodge them by syringing with soft soap and water. Imported Orchids. — Much of the success or otherwise attending these depends upon their treatment on arrival. Imported decaying parts cut away, keeping a sharp look out for insects that may prove troublesome later on. Then lay them on a stage in the house, and give an occasional bedewing with the syringe until they plump up a bit, after which no time should be lost in potting them according to the directions given earlier in these notes. The OncHros to Select. — A selection of good, cheap, and easily grown Orchids suitable to an intermediate house is herewith given : — Cattelya Gaskelliana, gigas, Harrisonise, labiata, Loddigesii, Mendelii, Mossiae, Schroderse, Trianse. These must be given plenty of water at all seasons. Cfelogyne cristata. When growth is completed, this should have very little water for a time. GARDENING MADE EASY. 109 Cypripedium (Lady Slipper) C. barbatum, Boxalli, callosum, Charlesworthii, Crossianum, Harrisianum, insigne, Lathamianum, Laurenceanum, Leeanum, senanthum, purpuratum, Spicerianum, and venustum. These must be watered regularly throughout the year. Dendrobium Ainsworthii, chrysostoxum, crassinode, denBiflorum, fimbriatum, Jamesianum, nobile, Pierardi, primulinum, thrysiflorum, Wardianum. As a rule these require liberal treatment, after a period of rest, by being kept fairly dry and placed at the cool end of the house. Lselia cinnabarina, harpophylla, Perrinii, purpurata, tenebrosa. Need the same treatment as Cattleyas. Ly caste Skinneri. The cool end of the house will suit this Orchid best. Masdevallia veitchiana. As cool as possible; water throughout the year. Odontoglossum citrosmum, grande, Halli, Harryanum, Insleayi, maculatum, pulchellum, Rossii. Of these O. citrosmum must be kept dry when growth is complete until the flowers appear. Others must be kept moist throughout the year ; the cool end of the house will suit these best. Oncidium concolor, crispum, flexuosum, Forbesii, ornithorhyn- chum. Barcodes, tigrinum, varicosum. These will thrive in any part of the house, but must be watered regularly. PhaiuB grandifolius. Needs some good loam mixed with the other compost (soil). Do not let the soil become quite dry at any time. Sobralia macrantha. Give the same treatment as recommended for the preceding. Sophronitis grandiflora. Treat as for Cattleya. Thunia alba. Give liberal treatment when growing, after which keep the soil dry and the temperature fairly cool until spring. Trichopilia coccinea, fragrans, laxa, and suavis. When the plant's growth is complete, water carefully, but do not keep the soil too dry. Trichosma suavis. Same as for Cattleya. Vanda coerulea (the Blue Orchid). Pot in moss and crocks only; keep always moist. Zygopetalum crinitum Mackayi. Keep moist at all seasons. Insect Enemies and FHendSi Peevention. — Excellent advice is given by Mr. G. S. Saunders, the well-knoiwn entomologist, in the " Century Book of Gardening," on this important phase of garden practico and his remarks may well be reprinted in this little book:—" Though it is most desirable, when possible, to use certain means to destroy the insects while attacking the plants, it is even more useful to take steps to prevent the attack being made, and a great deal may be done in this way 110 0ABDENIK6 MADE EASY. by taking a few precautions. Never allow weeds to grow in a garden (this is perhaps easier said than done), as all plants have insects that feed dn them, and these frequently leave the weeds for the culti- vated plants; odd corners, covered with grass and weeds, should be dug up and kept tidy, otherwise they are a perfect paradise for insects to breed in unmolested. Nothing in the way of stones or rubbish of any kind sihould he allowed to remain on the beds or near any plant, as various insects are very fond of hiding under them. The refuse of all crops txr plants that have been infested with any insect or fungus should never be put on the rubbish heap, as these pests will often come to maturity there; nor should they be allowed to lie about 00 the ground on which the crop has grown, but they should be burned immediately. When trees or shrubs are pruned, it is always safer to burn the prunings, as there are often egga of insects upon them. The chrysalides of many insecta are formed in the ground, and these should always be looked for when garden ground is being dug up. When a plant or crop is found to be infested with any insect, something should be done at once, without loss of time, to destroy the pest, for the rate at which some insects breed is almost incredible. The common Greenfly will give birth to living young ones at the rate of one every half -hour, and these will begin to breed when they are three days old; so it is no wonder that they sometimes seem to appear as if by magic. When quite young plants are attacked by insiects it is desirable to force tiieon into a healthy rapid growth as quickly as possible, by judicious watering or feeding, as they then feel the attack less. Many getrdenera do not realise what assistance they receive from the natural enemies of insects. Most Birds, Toads, and even Moles, and several kinds of insects that will be mentioned later on, are of great use in gardens. Birds, as a rule, feed their young entirely on insects, and the amooint of food required by a nestful of young birds eivery day is astonishing. Sparrows and Bullfinches, I am afraid, do more harm than good. Moles, though almost intolerable in gardens on account of the way they disturb the soil, kill an enormous number of grubs that are very difficult to destroy otherwise, as they live underground. Toads — except that they are repulsive to some per- sons — are perfectly unobjectionable in gardens, and kill an enormous number of insects, Woodlice, etc.; they should be encouraged in every possible way. Tame seagulls and rooks are also very useful in destroying many kinds of insects, particularly those grubs and caterpillars tbat live on the roots of plants, and which are so difficult to kill by other means." American Blight. — ^A terrible pest to the Apple-tree, and unless the utmost precautions are taken the growth is completely de- stroyed. Once it has established itself in an orchard, it is almost impossible to get rid of, so that great watchfulness is necessary to prevent its lodgment on any of the branches. It spreads with great rapidity from branch to branch and fro^m tree to tree, and the merest suspicion of its presence must be met with drastic measures. Wet GARDENING MADE EASY. Ill the part by means of a small brush with methylated spirit; but when the tree is seriously affected, first place cloths on the ground under the branches to catch the bits as they are scraped off, and burn them at once. As an additional precaution to prevent the disease spreading, damp the bark first -with soapsuds. Strip away the bark, and scrub well with a stiff brush which has been dipped in a paraffin emulsion solution. Several washes are recommended, but the following powerful preparation is efficacious in bad cases: — Dissolve 1 lb. of caustic soda in 1 gallon of water, then add |-lb. of carbonate of potash, stir until all is dissolved, and add 9 gallons of water; last of all add 10 oz. of soft soap which has been dissolved in a little boiling water. Mix thoroughly, and the mixture is ready for use. It must not be allo'wed to touch the skin or clothes. When the attack is a mild one, quassia extract and tobacco water mixed with soft soap is sufficient. It sometimes happens that the roots are attacked, and then expose them and dress with one of the insecti- cides.: The American Blight is easily detected by the woolly sub- stance covering the bodies of the insects. AMBEIOAN BLIGHT. + denotes natural 1 — Winged female. 2 — Wiogless females. 3 — liie aphides on a twig. Ants —These inflict little injury in gardens, but when they make their neste at the roots of trees the result is serious. It is Probable that the Ant has been attracted to this particular spot by Aphides 112 GARDENING MADE EASY. and it should be seen whethear these are present. If this is so, take up the plant, free the Aphides from the roots, and replant elsewhere. Boiling water, diluted carbolic acid, or paraffin oil will destroy the nest, but it frequently happens that it is not convenient to disturb the plant ; put a large pot near it, fill it half-full of leaves, and keep the soil always wet. The Ants will be attracted into this shelter, and in time form their nest in it, when it may be destroyed. Greenfly. — This is probably the most familiar enemy to plant life. It increases with extraordinary rapidity, and draws off the juices of a plant by means of its long proboscis, and it also covers the leaves witn a sticky secretion which is commonly called " honey- dew." Greenfly is especially addicted to the Rose, and the great evil is allowing the pest to become established before steps are taken to destroy it. We make it a practice, as soon as warm weather is likely to bring insect pests into life, to go carefully through the garden plots, particularly the Hoses, and first syringe vigorously with clean plain water, and if this does not effect a remedy, then syringe with the following mixture : — 1 quart of soft soap to 2 quarts of boiling water, and adding to this while the mixture is hot 1 pint of paraffin oil. Add 10 pints of water to every pint of the emulsion. The mixing must be thorough, to. prevent the oil separating from the other parts and, when applied, injuring the plant. Many excellent preparations are advertised, such as Paraoaph and Abol. Under glass. Greenfly soons disappears before a dose from the XL All Vaporiser. Another good way of destroying Greenfly, Blackfly, and other similar pests is to dust the shoots' with snuff or tobacco powder, and when long shoots of Roses are affected, to dip them in some wash, such as advised. A row of Broad Beans is frequently quite disfigured by clusterings of Blackfly on the top of the stems. The shoots must be topped and then burned. It is sometimes recom- mended that the plant be enclosed in a light air-tight material and the pest destroyed by tobacco smoke, but we fear few will go to this trouble. Asparagus Beetle. — Tbis is one of the most beautiful of all Beetles, and does great damage to the lusciofus Asparagus by feeding on its feathery foliage. Shoota on which the grubs are feeding should be cut off and burnt, and Mr. G. S. Saunders also mentions that when Asparagus is being cut, a good look out should be kept for the Beetles, which will then be just beginning to make their appearance, or later on they can easily be shaken off the plants into an open umbrella. At the least alarm they fall to the ground, feigning to be dead and lying quite motionless. The best way to destroy this insect is by spraying with Paris green or paraffin emulsion. Celeey Fly. — This is a terrible pest, particulary to Celery, although it will attack other plants. It eats the inner substance of the foliage, and may be readily detected by the white lines on the leaf — so much so, that when the plant is neglected, little of the natural green colouring remains. The plants should be examined GARDENING MADE EASY. 113 OELEBT rtiT. 1— Celery Fly. 2— Grub. 3— Cthry&alis. about the middle of June and at frequent intervals through the Bummer and autumn. When the first sign of the grub is apparent, pinch the place where it is between the finger and thumb— a firm pinch, but not sufficiently so to injure the leaf. When, however, the pest has obtained a firm hold of the crop, attend to each plant, and remove entirely every infected leaf and bum it. Insecticides are useless, as the application must be so strong to be of any value in destroying the beetle as to injure the foliage. When the grubs are fully grovni they bury themselves in the ground and become chry- salides. It ia then important to bury the upper part of the soil deeply and bum every trace of the crop. A good preventive is a dusting of soot aud lime. The Codling Moth. — This is the most insidious enemy to the Apple, and attacks various fruita, but more frequently the Apple than any other. The illustration shows the way in which the pest upsets the fruit-grower's calculations of an unblemished crop. We all know the " maggoty " Apple which ripens prematurely. The eggs are usually laid in the eye of the fruit; the Caterpillar works down to the core, and feeds on the pips and the adjoining flesh. CODLING MOTH. l_Oat«rpiUar. 2-C!hrysalifi. 3-Codling Moth. 4 Apple showing injury done by eatorpiUar. 114 GikBBSNING MADE EASY. When the fruit is mature, tihe pest eats its way out, and spins its cocoon in some crevice of the bark. Mr. G. 8. Saunders gives the following advice : — " If many of the fruits are injured, the tree should be well shaken, and all that faJls (which has probably been attacked) should at once be picked up. The injured fruit may generally be known by having some of the droppings of the Cater- pillar on it, and it shoidd be destroyed before the Caterpillar has time to make its escape. All the fruit thai falls from the tree should be collected at once for the same reason. All the loose, rough bark should be scraped off the stems and branches as far as it is possible to reach them, and in the course of the winter, before the buds begin to open in any way, the trunk and branches should be sprayed with a solution of paraffin emulsion, or, better still, with a caustic alkali wash. Tie bauds of some material, early in June, round the stems, so that the Caterpillar crawling up the trees can find con- venient places to assume chrysalide fotnu. Some use haybands wound two or three times round the sitem and tied so tightly that 1 — ^Magpie Moth. 2 — Caterpillar. 3 — GbrysaJis. insects cannot crawl underneath. Strips of old canvas or some other material may also be used. The strips should be about eight inches wide, folded in half, and the folded edge again turned down for about 1^ inches. The band should then be tied or wound round the tree with the doubly-folded edge uppermost, and the fastening should be near the top ai the band, which, of course, must reach all round the tree and lap over a little. Examine the bands occasion- ally, and destroy any caterpillars or chrysalides found in them." Ground Beetles. — These are not harmful as a rule, but have a fondness for ripe strawberries — so much so, that the crops are fre- quently destroyed. Four kinds are especially obnoxious, and bear a great resemblance to one another. They measure from ^-inch to 1 inch in length, are shining black in colour, and feed at night. 'During the day they hide in cracks in the ground and under stones or litter. The only way, apparently, to destroy them is by tiapping, which may be done QABBEKINO UADK EAST. 116 by burying small basins or other vessels nearly full of sugar and water and bits of offal so that their brims are level with the surface of the soil. Pieces of meat, which need not be of the freshest or primest cut, may be hidden mider old sacks or mats, as these will attract numbers of them. A spade or something of the kind should be at hand when the shelter is lifted, for the Beetles run very fast and many would escape while they were being caught by hand. If straw is laid on the ground, they will hide in the earth beneath it, and may be turned out with a spade or trowel. GoosEBEEEY AND CuEKANT Saw-fly. — This is known as Nematus ribesii, and it la not unusual to see the bushes rendered leafless through these pests. Frequent examination of the bushes is needful, as much may be done in a small garden by hand-picking to stop depradations. The Caterpillars of the Magpie Moth are also most troublesome at times. The methods of killing both insects are the same while they are feeding — ^namely, dusting with a mixture of lime and soot when the leaves are wet or syringing with paraffin emulsion or quassia extract and soft soap. The winter treatment, however, is quite different, for the Saw-fly grubs, when they are full- grown, bury themselves in the soil, and each forms a papery cocoon round itself. Within this it becomes a chrysalis, from which the saw-fly emerges in the spring. The best winter treatment, therefore, is to remove the soil to a depth of about four inches from under the bushes, and then bum it, or bury it not less than a foot below the surface, so that the flies will not be able to reach the open air when they leave the chrysalides. The earth may also be spread about near poultry, which will soon pick out all the cocoons. The Saw-flies measure about |-inch across the wings, their bodies being yellow, with a black patch between the wings; their heads are black. The grubs when full grown are rather more than f-inch in length, of a greenish-grey colour, covered with small raised black dots, from which grow fine black haira; the cocoons are not quite ^inch in length, and black and papery. CccKOO Spit, Spittle-fly, ob Froghoppbr.— One of the most conspicuous of all garden pests is the Spittle-fly, which may be easily recognised by the frothy substance surrounding it. This plague to many garden plants must not be allowed to endure, and, as it is 80 easily seen, there is no excuse for its presence. A few Spittle-flies will soon weaken the strongest plant, and we have seen them in great numbers on the Lavender in particular, but Phloxes, Car- nations, and Honeysuckles are relished too. A very simple remedy is to brush off the froth— and be careful the insect is in it^into a mug; but we crush the insect between the finger and thumb. It is not a cleanly operation, but very effective. Insecticides are not of much value. , Eel-Worms.— -The Eel-wonn is not much knoiwn, and is named Tylenchufl devastatrix. Mr. Saunders, writing in 1900, says: — "This pest has only lately come into notice, but this is due to a considerable extent, I eixpect, to their minute size, for they are quite 116 GARDENING MADE EASY. invisible to the naked eye when among the tissues of the plants they are attacking, though they may be detected with the aid of a strong magnifying glass. A large number of different kinds are known to be infested by them, even those of such diverse natures a« Clover, Hops, Camatioms, various Corn crops, and bulbs, so that most tilings are probably liable to be infested. As these creatures live and breed in the tissues of the plants, it is impossible to reach them with any insecticide, so that practically the only way of de^ Btroying them is by pulling up the plant and burning it, or, at any rate, by cutting off the affected parts and burning them. A good dregaing of suitable manure wUl, of course, greatly help a plant that is attacked. The vitality of these worms is astonishing, and they have been known to revive after having been dried up for nearly two years. No manure should be used from an animal that has been fed on an Eel-worm infested crop." Daet Moth. — This is called Agrostis segetum. The Caterpillars feed on the roots of vegetables and flowering plants, the special favourites being Auriculas, Balsams, China Asters, Turnips, Cab- bages, and things of near relationship. The feeding is accomplishes! at night, and the daytime is passed in hiding in the ground, in cracks, rubbish, and similar places, which must be examined and the Cater- pillars killed. Mr. Saunders says that thoroughly soaking the ground with warm soap-and-water, so as to fill up the cracks, will bring them to the stirface, when they can be picked up. The Earwig. — This surely needs no description. It attacks many plants, but the Dahlia seems to be its special favourite, and the Carnation and Chrysanthemum are also much appreciated. The Earwig feeds at night, and the best traps are formed by placing hollow Sunflower stems or Broad Beans where they are likely to congregate. Cut the stems into lengths of from six to nine inches, and examine them in the morning. Shake the pests out in a can of water. Bits of crumpled paper are also very useful. A very common trap in the case of the Dahlia is a flower-pot placed on the top of the stake used to suppoort the plant. Fill the pot with a little hay, and examine it in the morning. Lift it quickly from the stem, and shake it into a pail or can of water. Marguekite Daisy Fly. — This is called Phytomyza affinis, and is easily recognised. It attacks the leaves of the Marguerite Daisy, Cineraria, and Chrysanthemum, besides those of ether plants, the grubs burrowing between the skins of the leaves. Eventually the foliage is destroyed and the plant killed. Once a leaf is badly attacked, pick it off and bum it, but when only slightly, pinch the part where the maggot is between the finger and thumb. This is the only way of dealing with the pest, as any insecticide, if sufficient to kill the maggot, would irretrievably injure the foliage. Thb Narcissus Fly (Merodon equestris). — This is a very trouble- some insect, and generally attacks Daffodils, and Hyacintha in par- ticular. The grub makes its way to the centre of the bulb, and feeds there until it has attained full development. When it has attained GAHDENINQ MADE EASY. 117 St,"^' '* ^l*^^,^ chrysalis stage. When the ground is infcted S^ the grub, break it up weU and expose it to the weather and The Pkab Saw-fly.— Eriocampa adumbrata is the name of this enemy to the Pear and Cherry-tree. Slugworm is another name for , ^"^"i^^^ wf gi^en because of the resemblance of the pest to a Slug. Ihe grub feeds at night, and may be destroyed by dusting the leaves with finely powdered lime or gas lime. Give two or three applications. Another remedy is to syringe with a solution of para- flin emulsiooi, soapsuds, or lime water and soft soap. The top soil under a tree which haa been attacked should be removed and thrown into the poultry yard. It will probably contain a lot of grubs, as tneso tall to the ground when fully grown. Plant Bugs.— These are numerous, and live on the juices of plants. The way to kill them is by syringing or spraying the plant* with paraffin emulsion or a mixture of quassia extract and soft soap. Red Spidbr.— This is a very common and unpleasant pest, and attacks many kinds of plants, both indoors and outdoors, but especi- ally the former, enjoying the warmest and driest conditions. The best way to killthe pest is by spraying or syringing with one of the following insecticides. The spider must be sought for on the lower surface of the leaves: — ParaflSn emulsion, to which add 1 oz. of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) to every 5 gallons of the wash ; 1 lb. of flowers of sulphur and 2 lb. of fresh lime, boiled in 4 gallons of water, then add 1^ lb. of soft soap, mix thoroughly and add 4 gallons more water; or 2 oz. to 3 oz. of Gishurst compound to 1 gallon of water. Apply the mixture two or three times at intervals of three days. The Red Spider is almost invisible to the naked eye. Rose Saw-flies. — See Bases. Scale Insects. — Apple-trees and Roses in particular suffer from the effects of Scale Insects, and when they are discovered syringe or spray with parsiffin emiulsion, but it is wise to scrape ofi the scales and then give a spraying with this insecticide. Snake Millipedes. — These are very destructive. They are some- times called "False Wireworms," and are at times mistaken for centi- pedes, but, as Mr. Saunders points out, the latter, with the exception of one kind, move with great rapidity, whilst the former do so very leisurely. The Millipedes are very destructive, and once a garden is infested it is difficult to get rid of them. The skin is very hard and shiny — so much so, that insecticides are of little use. A strong solution of salt or nitrate of soda^ if it can be made to reach them, is efficacious, but as they generally feed on the roots of a plant, it is difficult to make the solution sufficiently strong to kill the insect without injuring the root. The Spotted Snake Millipede attacks ripe strawberries. They may be trapped by laying bricks, tiles, cabbage leaves, or bits of turf on the ground, as the pests will hide under them, and they may then be destroyed. Thkips. — The thripa are amomg the commonest of insect pests. lis OABDENIKG HADE EASY. and are uaually more traubleaome in lihe greemhouse tihaii outdoors. A good spraying with some insecticide, such as quassia ecsbract and soft soap, will destroy them. Weevils. — A most destructive family. The WeevilB, as a rule, feed on the leaves, and the grubs on the roots, of plants. The Black Vine Weevil {Otiorhynchus sulcatus) is very injurious, and another common pest ia the Clay-coloured Weevil (0. picipes). The leaves of the Vine and various plants are attacked, and the young shoots of the Vine are sometimes cut right through. Roots of Ferns, Cyclamen, Strawberries, Raspberries, Goioseberries, and Currants are attacked by the grubs. These insects are very difficult to destroy. The grubs are comparatively safe, living, as they do, at the roots of the plants ; and the WeevUs hide during the day, only coming out to feed at night. The only way of destroying the grubs is to examine the roots of the plants that they are attacking, and pick them out. The Weevils may be shaken ofi the plants at night into an ope.n umbrella or on to boards or canvas stretched on a frame which has been newly painted or tarred, so as to catch the pests when they fall, which they do very readily when disturbed or a bright light is suddenly thrown on them. In May and June, when the Weevils are very active, dress the soil just round the plants that are attacked with lime and soot, sand, or sawdust which has been soaked in paraffin oil, carbolic acid, or gas lime. In the case of plants grown in pots, the best way to catch the beetles is to place a white sheet on the ground, and to lay the plant on its side on this during the day. Soon after it is dark throw a bright light on it, and the Weevils will be easily «een on the sheet when they fall. If they do not do so readily, shake the plant. When Vines are gmwn on the roof of a house, the sheet should be spread under them and the same tactics em- ployed. Small bundles of dry moss or hay make very good traps, and should be tied to the stems Oif the plants, so that they can be ea»ily used as hiding-places. The Apple-blossom Weevil (Anthonomui pomorum) is very de- structive to the buds of Apple- and Pear-trees, especially when the weather is fine. The females lay their eggs in the young fruit-buds, and the grubs feed on the unopened or opening blossoms, and the result is they turn brown and wither. When once the eggs are laid there is nothing to be done, as no insecticide of sufficient strength can be used to kill the pest without injuring the buds. If Weevils are seen on the trees, shake them from the branches on to cloths spread underneath. As they pass the winter under stones or any rubbish at the foot of the trees, and also under rough bark, the ground underneath them should be kept from anything under whicb they could hide. In the autumn scrape the stems and the branches 80 as to remove any rough, projecting pieces of bark which might afford a shelter. Cloths of some kind should be laid round the stems before beginning this operation, so ai to catch all that is scraped off. Then paint the stems and branches with a wash made from fresh GARDENING MADE BAST. 119 lime, to which should be added a little paraffin oil. Bum any flowers that have been attacked. This Weevil is about 2-lOths of an inch long, dark brown, and covered with a greyish down ; the wing- cases are reddish, and there is a somewhat V-shaped white band across it. The Nut Weevil is often very hurtful. Mr. Saunders says: — "The grubs attain their full size in September, before they leave the nuts; the ground underneath the bushes should be well dressed with gas lime or ashes, or sand soaked in paraffin oil, so that the grubs may not be able to bury themselves in the soil. In the winter well trench the ground, the surface soil being turned to the bottom, to bury the chrysalides as deeply as possible, or the •oil may be only just broken up so as to bring the chrygalidea to the surface, where they will be under the influence of the weather and within the reach of birds. Titmice, in particular, eat a large number." Pea and Bean Weevils {Sitones lineatus) feed voraciously on the young leaves at night, hiding in cracks in the earth during the day. They are much the same colour as the soil, and when dia- turbed feign to be dead. The remedy suggested is to dust the leaves when wet with powdered soot or lime, or a mixture of gas lime, lime, and soot. Spraying with paraffin emulsion, properly diluted, would be vetry useful, and press the soil firmly round the plants by walking slowly up the rows with one foot on either side. This in some degree prevents the Weevils from coming out of the soil. Sand soaked in paraffin oil strewn on each side of the rows is also usefiil. Push the young plants as quickly as possible into growth. Cabbage Butterflies. — These two white butterflies rouse the enthusiasm of the child, who delights to catch the fluttering insects, and in so doing is befriending, unconsciously perhaps, the gardener. They are very common garden pests, being especially destructive to the Cabbage, but attacking also the Cauliflower and other vege- tables. Catch the butterflies in nets, and pick off the catterpillars by hand.: THE WINTBE MOTH. Male and two females. Winter Moth. — Apple, Cherry, Damson, Pear, Plum, and Nut leaves frequently suffer so much from this that not a bit ia left. An orchard sometimeo appears as if it had been scorched by fire. These pests attack the young leaves as soon as the buds begin to open. The great point is to prevent the females from reaching the buda to lay thedr eggs; the females are practically wingles», and as the chrysalides are formed in the ground, the former 120 GARDEmNG MADE EASY. have to crawl up the stems before they can reach their destination. It is for this reason sticky bands are used to prevent the pestt ascending to the branches. Cart-grease should be used, and not applied directly to the bark but to greaset-proof paper, eight inches in width, fastened round the stem a foot or more from the ground. On this spread the grease. Scrape the bark smooth beneath the band, as the object is to have it sufficiently close to the stem to prevent the moth passing under it. A more careful, way still is to first put on the paper band, then a strip of calico of the same width, and grease this. Rene-w the grease when it hardens. When the trees are staked, treat the stakes in the same way. Put the bands into position in early October, and keep them in condition until mid- January. Too much precautioin cannot be taken to prevent the depre- dations of Winter Moth, no matter how small the garden is. Watch the tree or trees ©ven in spring, and as soon as trouble is noticed, spray with Paris green or paraffin emulsion. (See Insecticides.) WiHEWOEMS. — Well-known pests, and very destructive. Thou- sands of Carnations and Pinks are destroyed yearly by Wireworms ; and before planting them, the soil should be carefully examined. Until almost every one is removed — we might say every one — the plants are not safe. Trapping is the only remedy, as insecticides do them little or no harm. The grubs are yellowish in colour, the heads and legs brown. The Skipjack Beetle is a Wire- worm ; it is long and narrow, dull brown, grey, ox yellowish brown. Slices of carrot, potato, or turnip, make the best traps. Bury each bit about one inch below the surface, and stick a skewer in it so that it may be more easily found. Examine the traps every morning. Mr. Saunders says that Wireworms are so fond of rapecake that " they will eat it until they burst ; but this is pure fiction, as they have been fed on oilcake for some weeks, and have thriven won- derfully well on it. Strewing the ground, however, with small pieces of cake will often draw the Wireworms away from a crop. Most birds are, fortunately, very fond of them." WooDLicE. — More familiar than any other pest is this one, which, it is interesting to know, belongs to the same family as the lobster and the crab. They are very destructive, and must be exterminated. They feed at night, and their skins are proof against any insecticide. Very often they may be discovered in quantity at the bottom of an old wall, and when such is the case pour boiling water on them. When they are troublesome in the Strawberry beds, place small bundles of dry moss about, in which they will hide ; or tiles, slates, or boards form traps also. Toads kill quantities of them, and should be encouraged in reason. insect Friends. There is a popular but quite erroneous impression that every insect is an enemy, and many useful friends are destroyed under this belief. We suppose the GAEDENma MADE EASY. 121 Ladybird is allowed to exist because from childhood days we have been told to regard it with kindly feelings, and on our mother's knee we lisped little verses extolling its beauty and usefulness. It has a fondness for the greenfly, but since the use of insecticides its ranks have been considerably reduced. Where, however, the little creature is observed upon a plant, remove it to a safe place before syringing begins. The Ichneumon Flies deposit their eggs in the bodies of cater- pillars, grubs, and aphides, and in chryialides and the eggs. The true flies have two wings, but these have four. They are therefore very helpful. The colour is generally blackish brown, and with sometimes a bright band across the body. The Hoveeer Fijes arei very interesting. Mr. Saunders says they are very common, and may often be seen hovering, apparently motionless, in the sunshine near trees, or basking on leaves with their wings outspread. Their grubs are most voracious, and feed entirely on aphides. They are quite blind and legless, but cling to the leaf or stem by certain tubercles near the end of their bodies. They strike about until thsy touch an aphis, when they immediately seize it, hold it up in the air, and quickly suck out the contents of its body. The empty skin is dropped, and search made for another aphis. They are greenish or yellowish in colour, and the chrysalides brownish and pear-shaped. The Lace-winged ok Golden-eyed Fly (Chrysopa perla) feeds on aphides. The parent insects are small and slender, and possessed of two pairs of larg«, pale green, gauze-like wings, IJ inches from tip to tip when open, the eyes prominent and golden in colour. They fly slowly, but protect themselves in a measure from their enemies by emitting a nauseous odour when attacked. Mr. Saunders says •' the eggs are very beautiful and curious, and are often mistaken for fungi or the seed-vessel of a moss, as each is laid in a cluster of a dozen or so together. The chrysalides are small whits cocoons, about the «iz9 of a small flea." Insectlcldee. An insecticide is a preparation for the destruction of injurious insect life on plants, and they must always be applied with great caution, as, through their powerful nature, they are likely to inflict more injury than the insects themselves. The eggs may not be killed with the first application, and it is therefore necessary very often to give two or three dressings to effect the desired result, with an interval of three or four days between. A special instniment should be used for the purpose, not an ordinary syringe, as this distributes the fluids in too large a bulk; the great point is todisinbute ttiem in fine spray. There are several patent articles m the market, and do not forget to spray the under as well aa the upper surfaces S^ the leaf . Prevention, it should always be remembered, espeaally 1^ l^deSng is better than cure; and, early in the season sharp ^rL^C ^^tii clean wat^ effect mueh go«d. Use soft water for I 122 QAEDENING MADE EASY. the preparations, and where this cannot be got, add a little soda to the water before it is used. Special inaecticidea are largely used, and in most cases they are of the greatest value. Always use them strictly accordiiig to the instructions on the bottle. The following recipes are excellent : — To KILL CATEEPiLLAas AND Slugwoems (Arsenate of Lead).— Dis^ solve 1 oz. of arsenate of soda in a little water, and pour it into a vessel containing 16 gallons of water; dissolve 3 oz. of acetate of lead in a little water, pour it into the solution of arsenate of soda, and stir in 2 lb. of treacle or some paraffin emulsion in order to make the mixture adhere better to the leaves. To DESTROY Insects at the Roots of Plants, and Wintee Wash (Carbolic Acid). — One pint of crude carbolic acid, 1 quart of soft soap, well mixed in 2 gedlons of hot water, used as a winter wash on the stems and boughs of trees; one part of the acid to 50 or 100 parts of water. A Wintee Wash foe Ameeican Blight (Caustic Alkali Solution). — Dissolve 1 lb. of caustic soda in 1 gallon of water, then add f-lb. of carbonate of potash, stir until all is dissolved, and add 9 gallons of water; last of all add 10 oz. of soft soap which has been dis- solved in a little boiling water, mix thoroughly, and the solution is ready for use. This mixture is often used without the soft soap, but the soap makes it adhere much better. This mixture is very ■caustic, and must not be allowed to get upon the skin or clothes. To KILL WiEEWOBMS, ETC. (Gas Lime). — If soil that is infested with wireworms and other insects, such as snake millipedes, is dressed with gas lime, at the rate of ^-Ib. to 1 lb. per square yard, the pests will be killed, but nothing must be planted in the soil tor nine months afterwards. The Most Useful Insecticidb (Paraffin Emulsion). — To make this excellent and perhaps the most useful of insecticides, dissolve 1 quart of soft soap in 2 quarts of boiling water; while the water is still boiling add 1 pint of paraffin oil (it is not safe, however, to do this over a fire), and at once work the mixture through a syringe for five or ten minutes, when there should be a perfect emulsion. To 1 pint of the emulsion add 10 pints of soft water before using it. Paeis Geeen. — A very powerful insecticide, and useful for de- stroying pests on fruit trees, but must not be used within a month of the fruit becoming ripe. It ia better to purchase it as a paste than as a powder, as it does not then blow about when handled. Blundell's paste is highly recommended. One ounce should be used with every 12 gallons of water, and two parts of lime to every part of the Paris green (bulk for bulk). Paris green is very heavy, and must be kept constantly stirred. A knapsack sprayer is useful for this preparation. To DBSTEOY Aphides and Theips (Quassia and Soft Soap Wash). — Soak 1 lb. of quassia chips in cold water for three hours, and hoil for 12 hours in a gallon of water. Strain out the chips, add 10 oz. of soft soap and enough water to make 10 gallons of the mixture. GABDENINQ MADE EABY. 123 The Use or Soot. — This should be laid thickly on the soil round th.e plants and worked in. Gruhs dislike it. Tobacco. — The moat popular and useful of all insecticides, and the XL All Vaporiser has taken the place of the tobacco paper which was formerly used. To make tobacco water, boil ^^-fb. of tobacco in a gallon of water. The liquor, when strained oflf, should be diluted with wates until it is of the colour of strong tea. Soft soap may be added, at the rate of 2 lb. to ffvery 3 gallons. Tobacco may also be used in the form of snuff dusted on infested plants. Some Useful Hints. Teoublesoue Bisds. — We disUke shooting the feathered flowers of the heavens, but must confess to experiencing considerable annoy- ance and loss of fruit when the buds are pecked out and the whole- some product of one's labours disappears. Of course, much may be accomplished by netting bush fruit trees — and by this we mean Gooseberries, Raspberries, and Currants — with a double thick- ness of netting ; and Strawberries may be protected in the same way. Another remedy is to dust the bushes when damp with a mixture of soot and lime. One well-known authority says this will not only keep off the birds but cleansa ths bark and give an impetus to the sap. The Wisdom of Moving Plants in Windows or Gbeenhouse. — Plants in pots in the greenhouse or in windows in the dwelling-house should be often moved, so as to bring all their parts under fuU exposure to sunshine and light. This keeps the growth equal on all sides. . . i -n Dkainagb fob Pots. — There is not a plant in existence that will thrive in a pot without drainage — and by this is meant a pot without some broken pieces of pot, called crocks, in the bottom. The object of this layer or layers of crocks is to allow the water to pass away quickly and to prevent the soil from filtering down and stopping up the bottom hole. Unless the soil is maintained in a very sweet con- dition, the roots get sickly, and eventually decay. The amat«ur must remember this most essential condition. The depth of this drainage will depend upon the nature of the plantS) and the size of the pots Half an inch will suffice in very small pots, and m the case of Geraniums which are to be grown simply for beddmg-out, one large crock will suffice. The pot most frequently used is called the " 5-inch " and in this should be put one inch of drainage. Placa the larger crocks with the hollow or concave side downwards. On these place smaller pieces, and then a few still smaller Wateelogged Plants and Wobms.— This is the result of deficient drainage, through not placing in the pots sufficient crocks Worms are ako respon^ble for the mischief through disturbing the drain- age- and generally very weak lime water will bring the marauder^ tS the surface. Another remedy is to turn the plant out of the pot by giving a smart tap on the table or greenhouse stage, or by thrusting a smaU wire through the soil. 124 GAEDENING MADE EASY. How TO Pot. — So much of the future success of the plant de- pends on proper potting that the greatest care must be taken with this operation. A plant loosely potted is never a success. Firm potting is necessary — and by thia is not meant hard ramming, except with Heaths and very "woody" plants, but sufficient firmness to allow the roots to obtain a good hold of the soil. Description of Soils foe Potting. — Turfy loam means the com- bination with the loam of grassy matter, such as pasture grass and roots, all of which, being of a fibrous nature, prevent the soil becoming close and hard, and, as it decays, also becomes plant food. Loam is a term that may be applied to- ordinary garden soil; it is used to distinguish thia from leaf-soil, peat, etc. There are many sorts of loam, but that known aa turfy or fibrous is best for ordinary purposes, for the reasons stated. Besides containing more plant food, it is not so liable to become sour and distasteful to plant roots as ordinary garden soil. Leaf-mould consists of decayed tree leaves. The best is obtained from the leaves of the Beech, Oak, Elm, Lime, Plane, Horse Chestnut, and Sycamore. The two last-mentioned do not make good leaf-mould for potting. The best way to obtain good leaf-sou is to collect the leaves and put them, while damp, in a heap to decay. Occasionally turn and mix them to ensure decay; at least a year is necessary to ensure good leaf-soil. It is a good plan to dust soot over the heap when turning it, to destroy insects hurtful to plant life. Stopping oe " Pinching " a Plant. — Beginners, when told to stop a plant or to " pinch " it, are often puzzled to know what ii meant. It simply means, when a young plant is growing freely, to take out I the terminal — the end — ^bud of each shoot, so as to cause other shoots to break out below. Any plant growing freely may be treated in this way to make it bushy and increase the number of its flower-heads or spikes. It is not considered good practice to stop or pinch a plant when repotting; but wait until the roots have become active, or pinch a fortnight or so before. Pricking off or " pricking out," as it is termed, is generally applied to seedling plants, and means transplanting from the seed-pots -or boxes to others at wider intervals, to give strength and increase the number of the roots. Another form of the same term ia " potting off," which is done when the little plants are taken from cutting-pots or seed- boxes and placed singly in small pots to give them an independent existence. Shifting on a Plant. — This means transferring it to another pot, usually of a larger size. In the growth of a plant from a seed or cutting there will be a series of shifts to pots gradually increasing in size, to meet the needs of the plant. Thus, in the case of a Chry- santhemum, for instance, we may start the cutting in what ia termed a " thumb " pot, and in about four shifts it will finish its career in an 8-inch or 9-inch pot. Shelter for Tender Plants. — What has to be guarded against in our climate is not cold so much as the disastrous effect of alter- GABDENING MADE EASY. 125 nate damp mildness, which forces prematiure growth, and frost, which as prematurely cuts it off, with perpetual changes of wind. The northern counties hold some advantage in this respect over the siouthem, for usually the alternations axe not so rapid, and, on the whole, winter is winter while it lasts. Permanent shelter in the way of belts and groups of hardy trees and shrubs is essential to every garden, but we do not realise the value of temporary wind-breaks so much as we might. Large quantities of Russia bast mats are imported into this country every year, and far certain purposes cannot be superseded; but several layers of these are indispensable if severe frost isi to be kept out of cold frames, or when tender sihruba have to b© protected. Straw, or — still better — reed mata, being much thicker, are more serviceable than bast mats for providing shelter, resisting frost and wind more effectually, and letting off rain as readily as a thatched roof. These mata are light and portable, can be easily rolled and unrolled, and when out of use can be set up on end, and kept dry and stored without difficulty. Any intelligent English labourer can be taught to make them, and the material is not hard to obtain, therefore it is profitable winter work for unem- ployed hands. Such mats can be used to cover the lights of cold greeaihouses and frames, or propped up with poles slantways against walls to shelter tender climbera, which often suffer more from damp trickling down and lodging about their branches than from frost; or they may be readily set up round any choice half-hardy shrub in the open which requires protection. Spare lights for leaving in front of wall shrubs cannot, perhaps, be improved upon, as they give light as well as shelter; but these are seldom out of use, and reed mats answer every purpose (save of light), and can be removed and replaced with the greatest ease, as occasion requires. For small plants it is a rough-and-ready way to turn a round market basket over them bodily; while a light mound of coal ashes or even a handful or two of leaves over the roots of many rather tender plants — such £is Dahlia stools. Lobelia fulgens, or Salvia patens — will keep them quite safe and happy through even a hard winter. These precautions, however, should be taken in good time^ before frost has had a chance to get into the ground. It is often a great pro- tection to let the withered stems of herbaceous plants remain through the worst of the winter, but it gives an air of neglect to the borders which few care about. Plants foe Gbowing under Trees. — The question is often asked, " What can I grow beneath trees! " Very few plants are a success under these conditions, but the pretty small-flowered Vinca minor (the Periwinkle) may certainly be recommended. Its leaves are dark green, and the blue flowers peep up from amongst them in profusion. Ivy, of course, is excellent; but choose the small-leaved sorts, not the big-foliaged Esegeneriana or dentata or amurensis. The St. John's Wort or Rose of Sharon {Hypericum calycimim) luxuriates in the shade and poor soil that is usually found beneath large trees. 126 GARDENING MADE EASY. Sowing Heather Seed. — The plan of planting turves of Heather on a plot it is wished to cover is a good one, but they must be cut thick enough — aay, 6 inches. Seeds might be sown in addition; but before doing so it would be necessary to clear the ground of grass and other plants not desirable, but not digging it deeply. It would then be simply necessary to sprinkle the seeds over the ground, without attempting to cover them with soU. See that the seed is ripe before gathering, but not so lipe as to shake out. The seed- bearing shoots should be cut off and thrust into a bag, and after- wards allowed to dry by spreading over sheets of paper or some- thing of that sort. The seed should then be rubbed and shaken out. Early spring is a good time to sow. The Danger or Galvanised Wire. — 8. W. F., writing in " The Garden," says : — " The damage done to tender shoots by allowing these to come into contact with new galvanised wire is very gener- ally known. The acid used in galvanising is very destructive to immature foliage and tendrils, especially in the neighbourhood of towns where there is much smoke in the air ; but if the wire is old and weathered, or if it is thickly coated with paint, no harm is done to the tenderest shoot that touches it. It is always the custom in this garden to paint all galvanised wire immediately it is put up, but, unfortunately, owing to pressure of work, this was neglected in a certain case lately. Two young plants of Lapageria, rose and white, had been put out against a north wall in the open, and galvanised wire strained up the wall for them to climb. About three weeks ago, on looking at the plants, I foimd that the wire had not been painted, and that wherever the young shoots had touched it they were dead. The house painters, when engaged in their work shortly after the wires were put up, had dropped some paint upon one portion of the wire, and here a young shoot had twined that was quite uninjured. Needless to say, the wires were at once painted, but some weeks have been lost through neglect to render the wire harmless before the plants started into growth." Garden Tools. — ^These must be of various descriptions — spades, forks, hoes, rakes, picks, knives, saws, shears, scythes, rollers, wheel- barrows, water-pots, and many other things But, once purchased, they should always have a place to themselves, where, having been well cleaned after being used, they can be hung up or otherwise stored. It is surprising how little space tools need when, on hooks or large nails, they can be hung up round a shed. A shed made with a wood frame and coated with corrugated iron does not cost much, and is very enduring. It may even be large enough, if near the greenhouse or frames, to be used as a potting-shed also. All tools should be kept quite clean, as then they work more freely and last langer. Always leave water-cans upside down after use. Give barrows, pots, etc., a coat of paint occasionally, as it pays in the end. Keep one large pruning-knife for rough work, and a small one in the pocket for common use. To Preserve the Colours or Pressed Flowers. — It is not easy GARDENING MADE EASY. 127 to give a general rule for this, as different kinds of flowers require different treatment. Do not press a bunch of flowers together; spread them out so as to be clear of each other. If you have a bunch of May, snip out half the flowers and press them separately, then, if necessary, you can put them back again after they are dry. In some flowers it is necessary to separate the petals and press them singly, and then put them back again, as in a red Poppy. Juicy flowers, like Bluebells, must not be pressed very hard at first, and the blotting-paper must be frequently changed and warmed, as they take a long time to dry; while Harebells can be pressed harder and dry quicker. To get the flowers to look well requires much care and patience and constant attention: there is no short way of attaining it. It is better to press several specimens of the same flower, and then, after they are dry, choose the best ones to stick down on the paper. The best stuff to stick them down is cold French glue, bought in little bottles at the artists' colourmen ; very strong gum will do. Stems and sticks should be held down with little slips of paper. Do not stick flowers in books, unless you want to fill the book with patterns for ornament. Separate sheets of cartridge paper are better for a botanical collection. T^E Best Way to Keep Flowers Fresh as long as possible. — Some flowers will not continue fresh in water even for a day. Not only do they fade, but the whole thing withers as if the stalk failed to reach the water. By a knowledge of a few simple facts much disappointment and vexation may be avoided. In the first place, all flowers should be put in water as soon as possible after they are cut. If left out of water for some time, the cut ends become dry and shrivelled, with the result that some of them have a much lessened power of absorption of water. In such cases a half-inch or so should be cut off the ends of the stalks immediately before they are put in water. This is a good plan to adopt with flowers which have been travelling ; in addition to which, in such cases, they should be immersed in water up to their heads for an hour or so, and if the water is tepid so much the better. Some flowers, like Poppies, Stephanotis, Convolvulus, and some Campanulas, need a little extra care, as the juice sometimes solidifies at the end of the stalk and so impedes the absorption of water into the tissues. For these and similar flowers, split and cut the ends a little way immediately before putting them in water, when the milky juice exuded is washed away. Lenten Boaes, Gaillardias, and some perennial Sunflowers and Phloxes are very often unsatisfactory as cut flowers, especially the two last named, as anyone looking at the cut^flower section of a summer flower show must have noticed. If the stalks are split a good way up immediately before being put in water, and the whole of the split portion immersed, the tendency of these flowers to wither will be reduced, and sometimes they will last as long as anything else. It is the flowers with woody stems that often present the greatest difficulty — ^Lilac, Guelder Roaes, Syringa, Flowering Currant {Riher. 128 OAEDKNING MADE EASY. mnguineum), May, "Wild Roses, etc. In addition to cutting the ends ot the stalks just before putting them in water, some recom- mend fn such cases peeling the bark two inches from the end ; others slitting the stems a little way up ; others loosening the bark without removing it; and others cutting off the ends with a long, rianting cut. All tlieae deviceg are more or less effectual, some answering better with one thing and some with another. Thi» has to be learned by experience. Some water plantc, too, are very difficult to keep alive when cut. Our English Horse-tails and some of the tall Water Reeds will only keep well in water if several inches of the stem are immersed, and little notches mad© along the immersed portion — one notch in the upper part of each inter-nodal portion — so a« to let the whole stem be filled with water. Changing the water every day helps to preserve the flowers in beauty, and is advisable in the interests of the health of the hoTise- hold. The water very «oon teems with infusoria, and these rapidly set up decay in the cut ends of the stems. It is often possible to change the water without disarranging the flowers j while certain floral aid contrivances for wide, open bowls permit of the flowers being taken out en bloe, and the bowl emptied and refilled. With very choic* and scarce flowers it is worth while again cutting off the ends of the stalks at the sams time. Various things are sold to put in ths water to mak* cut flowers last longer, possibly by arrest- ing putrefaction. A teaspoonful of Condy's Fluid to a pint of water is probably as good as any of thess. Treatment of Frosted Plants. — There are times when the most careful gardener, whether amateur or otherwise, finds himself over- taken by one of those sudden and sharp falls in temperature that happen in the early hours of the morning. Then the management of frozen plants is a matter of some importance, for, though they cannot but be injured by such a visitation as frost, yet it is gener- ally practicable to thaw them without the injury being very material. Syringing is sometimes recommended with tender sub- jects that have become frozen ; but, as has been pointed out by a high authority, it should be remembered that water, which is itself much above the freezing point, will, when applied, cause a sudden change to anything that is considerably lower. One practice is to get the fire burning briskly, so as to raise the temperature to 32°, at this juncture to sprinkle the plants freely with cold water, and continue this until they are raised above freezing point: they are then thawed. No sunshine should be allowed to reach them for some time, and sheets of paper may be used as a temporary covering with advantage. We have known a case of a frame of Cinerarias being seized by frost in consequence of one of those sudden changes above alluded bo. The frame was at once thickly covered with mate, and the plants kept perfectly secluded for two days, and at the expiration of that time the plants were found to have suffered only very slightly. GrijE^ ScTJM ON a Pond. — ^/Laaj amateur gaardeners are troubled aAEDENINQ MADE EASY. 129 ■witih scum on the pond, and we have been frequently aaked to suggest a remedy. The gcnm occurs in summer, especially when the weather is very hot. A correspondent in " The Garden " writes as follows : — " I used to be troubled with scum in a cemented tank of still water, which would keep clear untfl. after two or three days of hot summer, whe«n it would be completely covered with green scum. It had vegetable life in the shaipe of Water Lilies, and animal life in the Golden Carp, but the scum appeared in spite of them. A feiw days ago I collected a large number ol water-snaila and put them into it, since which time I have never had to complain of the scum." Tying Trees, Shbubs, amd Plant*. — ^While a certain amount of tying is very necessary in a garden, and is beneficial when properly carried out, it can easily be made to do harm instead of good. We frequently notice the evil effect of ties which have been made too tight, and so have cut into the branches. Care is needed when nailing fruit trees, Eoses, and climbers to walls by means of shreds, 80 that each shoot has sufficient room to develop properly. In tying fruit or other trees and shrubs to stakes with wire or shreds or thick string, a piece of rubber should first be placed around the stem so as to prevent its being cut by the tie. The material used should be tied twice round the stake, so that it will not move. The stakes should be driven firmly in the ground, otherwise they will sway about in the wind and loosen the tree, thereby preventing the latter from gaining a firm root-hold. The great thing to bear in mind when tying shoots, and especially young ones, is that they must be allowed room to grow, and the tie or shred must be left sufficiently loose for the purpose. Considerable damage is often done to young shoots that grow very quickly, such as those of the Vine, Peach, Plum, Rose, and shrubs against walls or on trellises, by neglecting to allow room for development when tying them up. One of the evil effects of tight ties is often shown in the Peach. The malady from which the branch is afflicted is known as " gumming." A Wind-swept Garden. — ^A wind-swept garden can be made secure by planting trees and shrubs, but they should be suitable for the climate of the district, and their size when fully grown ahould bear some relation to the size and character of the place. There are trees and shrubs which grow like Willows in southern counties, especially near th» south and south-west coMts. Cupressus macro- carpa near the sea on the south-west coast makes a handsome tree, but in the eastern counties and many places inland the tree suc- cumbs to the first severe winter In planting operations, especially in difficult situations, the first place should be given to our native trees Hollies are amongst the most beautiful things in Nature. Prepare the site weU, and plant freely all the best varieties and, if the planter is not well up in his knorwledge of Hollies, let him visit a good nursery where Hollies are a speciality. Most people like to see berries on their Hollies, therefore in purchasing it may ISO" GARDENING MADE EASY. he as well to stiptilate that a fair proportion of females shall be sent. Of course, male plants bear no berries, and in the best nurseries the female plants are marked. In budding or grafting this is borne in mind. It would be a misfortune if, in planting Hollies, one had too large a proportion of male*. Some males there must be, or there would be no berries. The circulation of the air — or, in other words, the wind — scattera the pollen of the maleis over the blossoms of the female plants, which leads to the production of the berries; and if it could be managed to plant the males on the side from which the prevailing winds come, the pollen would not be wasted. Every shrub or tree capable of bearing fruit should be placed in a position to produce it. Though the casual observer may not have noticed it, there are many tree* and plants on which the reproductive organs are on separate plants, which are classed as males and females. Gardeners were for a long time ignorant of the fruit>-bearing character of the Aucuba japonica. TTie first plant introduced was a female, and it was not till the introduction of the male, many years after, that it was discovered that the Aucuba was a very brilliant plant indeed when covered with scarlet berries. Skimmia japonica and its varieties form another very beautiful and interesting family of small shrubs in which the male and female have a separate existence; and there are many other which need not be referred to now. This is one of the matters that beginners should know something about, in order that they may then plant in perfect condition, which is not possible unless males and females, where the sexes are separated, are planted within reach of each other. Weedy Gkavbl Paths. — January is a good month to turn over gravel paths which are weedy or on which moss grows. Dig the walk over with fork or spade, bury the moss and weeds, tread it, and then put the gravel into shape and roll it down firmly. The walk should be highest in the centre, to give a slight fall for the water to the sides; two inches will be fall enough for a 5-feet walk. Basic Slag as Manure Dressing. — An application of basic slag as manure dressing made in the spring is apt to be disappointing, because, arising from its semi-metallic nature, it is long in becoming soluble. Practically it hardly dissolves at all in water, but in garden soils in which there is a fair proportion of unused dung or humus it dissolves more readily. But to get from it its full value as a manure it should be applied early in the winter and well dug or forked in, that it may be incorporated with the soil. If not applied till the spring, its effects for the season may be nil. It is a good phosphatic manure, and is excellent for all descriptions of fruit-, pod-, or root-producing plants, and is even good for leaf plants, such as Cabbages and Lettuces, all of which need more of nitrogen. To get any benefit from artificial manures, the best to apply when we are close to the spring is fish guano, combining in itself the three essential ingredients, phosphates, potash, and nitrogen. This is quick-acting, is good JEor all crops, is fairly cheap, and may be applied to the ground at the rate of 6 lb. or so per rod. Failing that manure, GARDENING MADE EASY. 131 get bone-flour, steamed or dissolved in siilphuric add, and kainit (potash). Well crush the latter, then mix with the bone-flour, and apply to ground at once, at the rate of 5 lb. per rod. To that dressing, or equally to one of basic slag, should be added, where growth has begun by crops, 3 lb. per rod finely crushed sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda, aa these salts dissolve quickly, and, when at once hoed or pointed in, are readily utilised by growing crops. It is worthy of note that very liberal applications of basic slag pointed in about starved fruit trees give them in a couple of years new life and energy. The value of basic slag to some extent is in its fineness, therefore, in purchasing it, exceeding fineness as ground should be made a primary condition ; also a guarantee as to purity should be obtained. Refuse of Carbidb or CALcroM used in maeino Acetylene Gas. — A question often asked is: " Is this refuse of any value? " A cor- respondent in " The Garden " wrote aa follows : — " I have used it now for four years, but attach more importajice to it for its value for killing and driving away the various insects, such aa slugs, grubs, etc., which frequently abound in some parts of the garden where it is specially shady or the aspect is north. I find it has no detrimental effect when applied to growing plants, and have tried it on Cabbages, Turnips, Globe Artichokes, and various other things, and have used it freely on Canterbury Bella which were badly infected with the leather-jacket grub. However, I much prefer using it on vacant ground in the autumn or early winter, and I have had very satis- factory results. The so-called lime keeps the soil very free from insects for at leaat two or three seasons, and, where applied three years ago, it is still freely seen in the soil. It should not be used too much on fast-growing vegetables for kitchen use, in case of an unpleasant flavour. I find crops invariably do excellently after its previous application to the soil. I am much inclined to think that the ammonia evaporates a good deal from long standing in the drainage tank. Our refuse is drained into a large tank, together with the water which is used in cleansing the generators, the latter making it of a more moderate strength. If we wish to use it as liquid, it will easily mix by being stirred up, and is then about the thickness of limewash, which it much resembles. The liquid, how- ever, can be taken off, and the lime used separately. If the generar tors remain for a few hours after the gas is made, the liquid, which is very strong and perfectly clear, can be taken off and used without any lime appearing on the soil. It seems equally harmless, too, in a crude state, even to very small seedling plants." Treatment of Shallow Soil. — Good gardening is not possible in a poor, shallow soil. It must be trenched, and by this is meant providing a sufficient depth of soil for the roots to work into — at least two feet. Open a trench, 2^ feet wide and 2 feet deep, across the piece of ground, moving the soil taken out to the opposite side where the trenehing will ultimately finish. In trenching, the sod is reversed ; but where the subsoil is bad, it is bettea:, after breaking 132 GARDENING MADE EASY. it up and mainuring the bottom spit, to leave it there, and reverse the top spit. Only those who have large suppliea of manure or good soil to draw upon can make gardening much of a success; but the amateur will proceed cautiously. This ia the best advice that it is possible to offer. Road Scbapings for Heavy Soils. — Theie are invaluable for heavy soils, and can be often had in laxge quantities at a small cost. They coat little or nothing, and are far superior to masses of animal manures for clayey land. It may be impossible to get large quanti- ties at one time, but it is a good plan to treat a portion of the garden yearly, doing the work thoroughly. In time such soil should be in excellent condition for most crops. It is an easy matter to store road scrapings during the summer or at a time they cannot be placed on the land, using them in the winter season. Watering Plants in Winter. — Much injtiry ia sometimes done to delicate plants through their being watered with cold water during the winter. It may be laid down aa a safe principle that when water is given to plants it should always be of the same tem- perature as that of the house in which the plants are growing. During winter, when coJd winds and frost prevail, cold water should never be used in a warm greenhoiuse ; it is always best for the water to be warmed three or four degrees above the temperature of the house. The application of water ia a matter of importance; the loil in the pots should be kept as nearly as possible at a uniform degree of moisture, that degree being a medium between wetness and drought. To secure this it is wise to eixamine the plants daily. Bad drainage results in injury to plants when they are over- watered. If the soil be porous and the drainage good, water passes through the pot quickly, and no harm is done; but a soddened soil should always be avoided. There should be no eixtremes of wetness and dryness, but it is probable more plants fail from the first cause than from the last. A careful gardener waters in the morning, so that if there be any spilling on the floor this may dry before night. It is an axiom in plant culture that plants which are in flower require more water than those which are not, but it would be easy to find exceptions to this rtde. Hardy plants in cold houses need to be watered with discrimination during frosty weather. If frozen, they should be left until a thaw comes. Plants which are dry at the roots withstand frost better than those which are in a moist soil, and as in the winter season they are in a state of inactivity, they do not suffer to any extent from being dry. But as soon as a thaw is followed by mild weather, then such as need water should have it freely, supplying it as early in the day as possible, so that shelves and floor may become dry before nightfall. Growing Watercress. — There are two waya of raising a stock of Watercress. One is by sowing seed in spring, and the other is by division of the plant into slippings or cuttings, and inserting the same in soil (or soil and mud) of the stream in which it is to grow. October is a good time to put the clippings in. The water must be QABDSMINe MADB BAS^. l33 let offi whilst the clippings ax© being inaeirted, and the crop will succeed much better if soone soil can be mixed with the mud at the time of planting, and the flavour of the Creas will be much improved. The slippinga should be about four inches or five inches Icmg, and insetted in the mud to the depth of three inches, and made as firm as possible, to prevent them floating when the water is again turned on, which may be as soon as the planting is finished. The cuttings should be planted ten inches apart always. There are two varieties of Watercress — the dark-coloured and the light green. The dark is usually preferred, as being of rather better flavour. The bundles as sold by dealers in the ordinary way would do for cuttings. We do not recommend the raising of the stock from seed, as it takes a much longer time, and the plants are not always so satisfactory, the sorts raised being often much mixed and inferior in quality to those on the market. The seeds should be sown in shallow drills on a warm border abciut the middle of March, and a« soon as the young seedlings are large enough to handle they should be planted in a shady place five inches apart to gather size and strength, and planted in the stream towards the middle of May. The plants had better not be cut hard the first year, but afterwards the more they are cut the more they will spread. Planks must be used to stand on whilst planting is going on. Seeds may be obtained from any good seedsman. Good Ts^ees and Shr>ubs. The small garden will not hold many trees — ^perhaps none at all — but there is generally space for a few. Before planting, well dig and manure the soil, and, in the case of tall, slender trees, stake and tie the stem firmly. Japanese Maple (for its crimson foliage). Scarlet Horsechestnut {^sculus Brioti). Tree of Heaven (Ailantus glandulosa). Snowy Mespilus (Amelcmchia). — Small tree; white flowers in sDrin£r. strawberry Tree {Arbutus Unedo).— Especially for the Southern counties and the sea coast. Strawberry-like fruits. The Aucuba. — Good for towns. Bamboos.— One will generally suffice, and we think Viridi-glau- cescens is the most beautiful. Berberis Thunbergi.— Small white flowers in spnng, scarlet leaves in autumn; B. Darwini, orange flowers in abundance in late spring and early summer; B. stenophylla, yellow. All like warm soils and afunshine. „ „ rr, n r. i ^ Buddleia globosa (Orange Ball Tree).-Grows almost any where, especially near the sea; hardy, and has a wealth of orange, ball-like flowers in summer. ,.,,.• ^i. i. ^ The Box.— A well-known useful shrub. Eotundifoha is the best ^"''oarpenteria californica. -A beautiful shrub, with large white 134 GARDENING MADE EASY. orange flowers and yellow stamens. It grows about twelve feet high, and likes a well-drained soil of peat, loam, and leaf-mould. Well worth growing, but must be protected again»t east and north- east winds. Catalpa, or Indian Bean Tree.— Syringsefolia is a well-known tree, twenty feet high, with large leaves and pretty, purplish, horae- chestnut-like flowers in August. It is generally best in moist soil, and is very fine in many waterside gardens. Aurea has quite golden-coloured leaves. Oeanothuses. — Very pretty shrubs for planting against a wall, but not very hardy. Except in the south of England, they must be matted up in winter. Azureus has blue flowers, and is a good wall shrub; Gloire de Versailles haa masses of a very pretty blue flower J and Indigo is dark blue. Laurel. ^ — This is well known, but should not be planted, as it so frequently is, to the exclusion of other evergreens. The best variety is rotundifolia. The Fring^e Tree {CMonantlms virginicus). — This has a wealth of white thread-like flowers in spring. Mexican Orange Flower {Choisya ternata). — So called because of its white orangey-like flowers, which are also powerfully scented. The glossy green leaves are another feature. Should be grown in most gardens, against a wall, and protected during winter as the Ceano- thus is. Bladder Senna {Colutea). — Shrubs that will grow anywhere, even on a railway bank, and good both in town and country gardens. The flowers are yellow, and followed by a profusion of bladder-like Bsed-pods. We advise cutting the stems down hard each spring. Dogwoods. — One Dogwood has crimson stems in winter, and is very beautiful by the side of water. The Cornelian Cherry (C. Mas), a small tree, is smothered with tufts of yellow flowers in Eebruary, and C. Spathi is one of the best coloured-leaved shrubs in our gar- dens. They are shades of yeUow, and do not bum in the hottest suns. Cotoneaster. — Where there is a bank to cover, or something of a shrubby character desired to clothe the balustrade against steps, C. microphylla is the shrub to select. C. frigida is a small and attrac- tive tree, with white flowers and crimson fruits. The Thorns {Cratmgus). — Of the many beautiful Thorns, select from the Cockspur Thorn {Cratcegus Crus-galli), flowers white, fruits crimson ; Scarlet-fruited Thorn (coccined), Tansy-leaved Thorn {tana- cetifolia), and the beautiful crimson double form of our common Hawthorn called Paul's Scarlet. The Evergreen Fire Thorn should be grown against a wall. It has white flowers and masses of jvrimson berries in autumn and winter. The Brooms. — These like a light and warm soil. Gytisus and prsecox, pale green, early spring; C. nigricans, summer, deep yellow; and the white Spanish Broom are the best Daphne. — The Mezereon is a charming purple and early-flowering shrub, scenting the air with its fragrance before February is over. GAEDENINQ MADE EASY. 135 There is a white form and one which blooms in autumn {(mtumnalis). D. laureola (the Spurge Laurel) has fragrant green flowers. This will grow almost anywhere. Deutzia Lemoinei. — D. crenata (double). Bush Honeysuckle (Diervilla or Weigela).— Very hardy, and flowers freely even in town gardens. Eva Rathke is the best of the varieties; its flowers are crimson. Heaths. — If there is space and a peaty soil, or one that can be made so, lusitanica, the Mediterranean Heath (mediterranea), and the deep pink variety hybrida, and camea (the Winter Heath) will give pleasure. Euonymuses. — Evergreen shrubs of great use for town gardens. Exochorda grandiflora (Pearl Bush). — White; spring; very pretty shrub. Forsythia. — Except F. viridissima, spring, yellow-flowered, the Forsythiaa are rambling plants, smothered with golden flowers in March. Flowering Ash {Fraxinus Omus). — A beautiful garden tree, twenty to twenty-five feet high, and has clusters of creamy white flowers. Etna Broom {Genista cetnensis). — A beautiful late-summer flower- ing broom with yellow flowers. G. virgata is also' excellent. Warm, dry Boila. American Silver Bell Tree {Halesia). — This is a pretty garden tree, with Sncwdrop-Iike flowers in spring. ^ Hibiscus syriacus (Syrian Mallow). — This grows about eight feet high, and flowers iu autumn. Very easily grown. The best varieties are Totus albus, white; and ccelestis, bright blue. Sea Buckthorn {Hippophce rhamnoides).—A beautiful native shrub for planting by the waterside, but it will grow anywhere else. The leaves are quite silvery in colour, and in winter the shoote are lined with orange-red berries, which seem to glow in the weak sunlight. One often hears complaint's that the shrub does not berry. This simply means that to every group of six of tbe female form there must be one male. Hydrangeas. — There are two Hydrangeas the beginner should choose — H. Hortensia, or H. japonica, as it is also called, which is the Hydrangea one sees in the gardens of the South and elsewhere, and the large-flowered H. paniculata grandiflora, which has huge masses of white bloom. Of the former there are several varieties, but perhaps the most interesting point about it is that the flowers sometimes change to quits a warm blue colour. As far aa we know, there is no certain recipe for changing the flowers to blue. Some advocate the use of iron, either in the form of iron filings added to the soil, or by watering from a tank half filled with old iron, and so heavily'impregnated that the water is of a deep red colour. This is perhaps most likely to give the desired results. Others advise alum, and recommend watering twice a week with a solution formed by adding two ounces of alum to one gallon of water; some, again, add one ounce of sulphate of ammonia to this mixture. These several 136 OABDENIN6 MABE EAIY. recipes are often, but not invariably, effective in changing the coloui of the flower from the typical pink to a bluish hue, but rarely to that clear blue seen in naturally grown specimens. It is alleged that powdered slate will turn the flowers blue. H. paniculata grandi- flora flowers in autumn, and to obtain the great flower-clusters we have written of the young shoots must be cut back close to the* old wood before growth begins in spring. A top-dressing of well- decayed manure given in summer is also very useful. St. John's Wort. — The name of this family is Hypericum, and there are many kinds, but, to begin with, select the vigorous Bose of Sharon (calycinum), which has large yellow flowers and an abund- ance of pale green leaves. It is the shrub for planting under trees, where few things will even survive. The Holly.— May is the best time for planting the Holly, and no tree or shrub plays a more important part in the winter landscape. In no other country does it thrive as it does with us, and for that reasooi, if for no other, we should make it a main feature in our English grounds, encouraging it in those localities where it is naturally abundant, amd planting it and cherishing it elsewhere. As a specdmen on a wide lawn, with branchea feathering to the ground, few things can exceed the symmetry of the finest green- leaved hollies; though amongst the host of garden varieties which have been raised, many of them moat beautiful in their variegation, there is abundance of choice to satisfy the most eixacting taste. The best six varieties are of the variegated sorts: Gold Queen, Hands- worth New Silver, and compacta aurea; and of the plain green- leaved: Shepherdii, camellisefolia, and platyphylla. Jew's Mallow.— A delightful shrub for the beginner, and smothered quite early in the eoimmer with double yellow flowers, at leaat the most frequently planted sort is (Kerria japonica fl. pi.), but the type is very pretty, and known by its wnall single yellow flowers. The double variety, in particular, is frequently to be seen f eatooning a cottage with bloom. Laburnums. — Both in the town and country garden, the Labur- num is a floral friend. Its golden rain of blossom in early summer is looked forward to with delight. A very happy effect may be obtained by planting it against (but not so close as to interfere with the development of the trees) a purple Beech, or in the small garden the tree known as Prunus Fissardi, which has deep purplish foliage. Sweet Bay (Laurus ndbilis) is best known by the sweetness of its leaves, which are used in many ways for flavouring. But it is a free-growing and beautiful small tree, objects to cold winds, and is quickly affected by sevei-e frosts. Beautiful specimens may, however, be met with in Northern gardens where some sheilter is forthcoming. The Laurustinus belongs to the same family as the Guelder Rose; it is a Viburnum, and V. Tinus is the name under which it will be found in catalogues. It is not uncommon in villa gardens in the neighbourhood of London, but is not very hardy. Farther GARDENING MADE EASY. 137 •outh it flowers even in winter, and the whitish clusters have a certain charm. It is often grown in pots. The Privet.— The common Privet is the supposed friend of the luburban garden, and its influence seems to extend in all directions. It has, of course, its uses, but one tires of its dull green leaves and evil-smelling flowers. We have some regard for the Golden Privet, but our experience is that both green and golden forms become ragged and unsatisfactory. There are other Privets, but these will be added a-s the beginner's first enthusiasm for gardening deepens. The Tulip Tree. — One of the most distinct of all trees, and will grow in most gardens. It is the tree to plant on the outskirts of a lawn. We are acquainted with many gardens, an acre or so in extent, in which the Tulip is the chief feature. It is as straight as an arrow in growth, and has a leaf that, once seen, can never be mistaken — a saddle-shaped leaf which turns golden colour in autumn. The flowers remind one of a small dull yellow Water-Lily. Magnolias. — Where so many are beautiful, it is difficulc to dis criminate, but our selection must be confined to two — the early flowered M. conspicua or the Yulan, and the big evergreen Magnolia, which gives to many an old English house its most fragrant charm. The Yulan is one of the first shrubs in bloom; its flowers are like large white Tulips on the leafless shoots; and the shrub or small tree — whichever one is pleased to call it — will grow almost any- where, but shelter from cold easterly winds is desirable, because the flowers appear so early that they are liable to be destroyed in their fresh beauty. The other Magnolia is the evergreen M. grandiflora, which has immense, powerfully scented, creamy white flowers and large glossy green leaves. It is more often seen against a sunny house-wall than in the open. Olearia Haastii. — This is known as the Daisy Bush, but Olearia Haastii is the name it will be found under in books and catalogues. It generally grows about four feet high, and makes a dense bush of dark green leaves, which in July are almost hidden with white clusters of flowers It is as happy in a town as in a country garden. The Mock Oranges. — The Philadelphus is the true Mock Orange, not the Lilac, which is Syringa. The Philadelphuses are very useful shrubs for town or country gardens, and bloom profusely in summer. The type is P. coronarius, an unruly shrub with large, fragrant. Orange-blossom-like flowers in summer; but for the very small garden some of the smaller forms are more suitable, such as the pretty white-flowered P. microphylla and P. Lemoinei, which also has white blossoms. P. grandiflorus is altogether larger in the dimmsions of the bush and also in, flower; it is very fragrant. The Mock Oranges are not in the least particular about soil. The Almonds, Cherries, and Plums (Prunus).—A. child knows that when the Almond branch is veiled in pink, spring has come; and this pretty tree is a Prunus (P. amydalus). If another Almond is wished for our choice would be P. nanus, which is seldom more than four feet high, and deep rose ia colour. The double rose- 138 GAEDENING MADE EASY. coloured Peach is a charming small tree ; and amongst the Cherries, first choose the double white; and one named Prunus pseudo-cerasus. The Mahaleb Cherry is a very graceful tree, and its white flowers hang in profusion from the willowy shoots. The most conspicuous in foliage of the Prunus tribe is P. Pissardi, which is a charming small tree, and has dark crimson fruits. The Pears belong to the family called Pynis. Perhaps the best known to the layman, so to say, in gardening matters is the Japanese Quince (Pyrus or Gydonia japonica). It is a beautiful old garden shrub, and may be grown against a sunny wall or as a bush. Before winter has flown the flowers appear on the bare shoots — ^flowers of a vermilion colour in the type, which is as beautiful aa any, but crimson in cardinalis; and there are other forms. P. Maulei has more slender shoots and orange-scsirlet flowers. The beginner should choose also the Siberian Crab and the lovely small tree called Pyrus floribunda. This should be the first chosen, in our opinion, of all flowering trees ; the slender branches are smothered in early summer with pink bloom, a shower of blossom, and ,the effect, where the garden is sufficiently large for the purpose of planting a group, is indescribable. P. Scheideckeri, deep pink; and P. spectabilis are very beautiful also. The Oak3 — The monarch of trees is not suitable for the small garden, but if a good scarlet-leaved Oak is desired, the American Scarlet Oak (coccinea) is the one, and of the Golden Oaks, concordia. The Holm Oak is the evergreen kind (Q. Ilex), and is a very hand- some and vigorous tree. Rhododendrons. — There are many beautiful Ehododendrons. These shrubs dislike a lime or chalky soil, and the soil over the roots should be top-dressed each spring with leaf-mould, and during the growing time give an abundance of water. The best time to plant both Rhododendrons and hardy Azalea*, which are of many shades of colour, is the autumn. In a naturally peaty soil, and where there is protection from cold winds, ths shrubs thrive beet. The Sumachs.— A useful group of strong-growing small trees, which thrive in ordinary soil. The leaves change to brilliant colours in autumn. R. Cotinus is called the Smoke Plant, because of' the feathery seed-plumes, which envelop the shrub as in a greyish cloud. A sunny spot on the lawn edge is the place for it. It forma a remark- able picture of colour when in full beauty. R. cotinoides or Chittam Wood has the most highly coloured foliage in autumn. The Stag's- horn Sumach is excellent for town gardens, Eind has very large deep green leaves. We should avoid the Poison Ivy (R. Toxicodendron), as the sap is very poisonous. It is a brilliant but deceptive beauty ; the leaves are glorious in colour, of a brilliant shade of scarlet. The Flowering Currants.— -These belong to the Eibes family, and are amongst the first shrub flowers to greet the year. When the Ribes is in bloom w© know that spring is at hand, and for that reasoin it has a warm place in our hearts. It will grow almost any- where, in both town and country gardens, and i« known by its GARDENING MADE EASY. 139 clusters of red flowers, whicli have an odour of Black Currants. Atrosanguinea is the variety with the deepest-coloured flowers. The Rose Acacias.— This will be found in catalogues under the name of Robinia hispida. It must not be planted in a windy place, because the shoots are so brittle. It flow^irs in late summer, and the clusters of pink blossom hiding amongst the greem leaves are very pretty. Rubus.— The Brambles belong to the Bubus family. There are several exquisite shrubs, the most beautiful perhaps being the spine- less Rocky Mountain Bramble (B. deliciosus). We have in quite a small garden enjoyed this queen of shrubs. The growth is slender, and the flowers of purest white, set off by a cluster of golden stamens. Another Bramble, but not so strong in growth, is R. ronjefolius coronajius, which has semi-double pale pink flowers. It will grow almost anywhere. The Elder is too well known to describe. It is not a good tree for a small garden, as it takes up much space and impoverishes the soil. The Spanish Broom (Spartium junceum) bears its sweet-scented yellow flowers in late summer. It is the shrub for sandy soils, and is welcome for its late flowering and golden beauty. Spiraeas. — This is a large family, and it contains many of the best of hardy flowering shrubs. A moderately rich soil is the most suitable, and our selection would be S. discolor, or arisefolia, as it is also called, a shrub of rare beauty, and should be in every garden large enough to contain shrubs. Its flowers appear in intense creamy panicles in midsummer. The growth is extremely graceful. S. japonica Anthony Waterer is a dwarf shrub with crimson flowers, which appear from summer until quite the frosts. Another charming Spirsea is Arguta, of which the shoots are slender and thickly clustered with white flowers. The Bladder Nuts (Staphyleas) flower in spring, and seem to thrive anywhere. S. pinnata is the best known; height about six feet. The Snowberry.— This is a shrub which will grow anywhere, and is known at once by a profusion of creamy white berries. It is often seen luxuriating in the shade of trees. Lilacs. — These are amongst the first shrubs that should be selected for the garden. The botanical name for them is Syringa, the ordi- nary Lilac of the garden being known as S. vulgaris ; but there is a pretty kind named the Persian Lilac (S. persica). The beginner must be content with a few of the varieties of the ordinary Lilac, and the best to make a start with are: Mme. Lemoine, white, double; Marie Legray, white, single; and Souv. de L. Spath, purple.' We have a strong affection, however, for the ordinary Lilac; its colouring is pretty, and the fragrance strong and sweet. Guelder Roses.— A beautiful group of flowering shrubs, of which the wild Guelder Rose (Viburnum Opulus) is well known. The globular-flowered Guelder Rose of gardens, also happily named 140 OA.BDEMmG HADE U.BT. the Snowball Tree, is a variety of this — V. Opulus sterile. It is too well known to describe, but another Guelder Rose not so frequently seen is V. plicatum (the Japanese Snowball Tree), which makes a spreading dark-green-leaved shrub, smothered in early summer with ivory-white flower clusters. It is not often seen, but is quite worthy of a place in the small garden. Where there is water, do not fail to plant by the side of it the wild Guelder Rose or Water Elder (F. Opulus). It is more for the bunches of brilliant red berries than for the foliage or the flowers that we plant it. When in full beauty, both berry and leaf are crimson. Peitning Shrubs. — Even in the small garden it is just aa well to know how to prune. Proper pruning at the right time results in more vigorous groiwth and a greater abundance of flowers, but to hack away indiscriminately is to spoil many plants for years. Generally speaking, spring-flowering trees and shrubs should be cut back directly after they have bloomed, and those which flower in the summer or autumn should only have the weakly wood thinned out to admit light and air to those growths that are left. There is, however, no hard and fast rule for pruning, individual kinds having to be treated according to their requirements; but the following summaries of various trees and shrubs will be found helpful: — Laurustinus and Forsythia should be cut back in spring directly after flowering; and the following, though blooming later, are all the better if cut back in the spring, viz., Colutea, Hedysarum, and Hypericum. Such flowering shrubs as Buddleia, Deutzia, Kerria or Jeiw's Mallow, Leyceeteiia, Philadelphus or Mock Orange, Ribes (Flowering Curraait), Spirseas, Lilacs, Snowberry, and Guelder Roses should only have their growths thinned out after they have flowered, but, if any have become too large, they can, be cut down in early spring. This will mean the loss of a season's flowers, but the plants will grow and bloom more vigorously afterwards. Furze and Broom should not be pruned at all, but any overgrown plants should be cut back in May. Willows, Dogwoods, and other plants that are grown for the colour of their stems in winter, should be cut down each spring, aa the young wood ia always the more brightly coloured. The common and Portugal Laurels, Hollies, Yews, and Privet should be trimmed in May — either lightly if they only require shaping, or be cut hard back if they have become too large. Berberis and Rhododendrons should not, as a general rule, be pruned at all, but if they are in bad health or have become too large they can be cut hard back in April; and, though this will mean the loss of one season's flowers at least, the plants will be all the better afterwards. When Rhododendrons have been cut down, a watch must be kept for any suckers that spring from under the ground, as many Rhodo- dendrons are grafted plants, and the suckers are merely R. pontioum, which will smother the better variety if not kept down. Such flowering trees aa Pninus, Pyrus, Thorns, Laburnums, MagnoUaa, and Catalpas should not be cut back unless they have beeoma uughapelj, ]but tb« brazich«9 »h«uld ba thinned oecasiftn.allj OAfiBSNUfG MADS EASY. 141 to admit light and air to the centre of the tree. This Bhould be done directly they have floiwered. Chestnut, Lime, Ash, Oak, Poplar, Elm, Beech, Hornbeam, and Robinia should be pruned in August cxc September, but this should consist more of a good thinning rather than a cutting back, though the latter is necessaay if the trees have become too large or unshapely. Pines and Evergreen Oaks are best left until October, just as the plants are getting dormant, and should not be cut more than can possibly be helped, as they are very impatient of pruning. Spruces and Silver Firs shoxild never be pruned; while Cupressus, Betinosporas, Thujas, and some of the Junipers are benefited by an annual or biennial clipping. Treatment op Wounds. — In pruning it is necesaaiy to give a coating of gas tar over any cuts that are an inch or more in diameter, and care must be taken when removing large, heavy branches to saw upwards from beneath a littln way before cutting them through from above, as large limbs are apt, when partly cut through, to brejik off suddenly and tear a piece of the main trunk away in their fall. In cutting away any limbs that spring from the main parts of a tree, they should not be cut through so as to leave a stump, which will decay perhaps even into the trunk, but be sawn as close as possible to the trunk. Then, if the wound' is covered with gas tar, the tree will keep sound and gradually cover the place with fresh bark.: Sheubs fok Town Gardens. — In gardens near a town it is best to plant trees that lote their leaves annually. When th» leaves fall in autumn, of course, all the accumulated dirt falls with them, and a start is made in the spring with clean, young leaves. Evergreens in a town garden, unless they are washed with a hose occasionally, have a dismal and depressing effect, so the fewer the better if the garden is to look bright. The Lilac is a good town shrub, and there are many very beautiful varieties. Marie Legraye (the double white) and Charles X. (purple) are two of the best. Flowering cur- rants are delightful objects in spring when in full flower, and so are some of the ornamental Crabs — for instance, Pyrus Malus floribunda, one of the prettiest of spring-flowering shrubs. The sweet-scented Mezereon {Daphne mezereum) and Diervilla (Weigela), Eva Rathke, with crimson blooms, are both a success in town gardens. The Laburnum, Guelder Rose, Cotoneaster frigida, the Thorns, Almond, Wistaria, Magnolia conspicua, and M. stellata are excellent. A flood of yellow colouring is possible in winter when the winter-flowering Jasmine nudiflorum is planted. It is pleasant to see the pale yellow colouring, and the shoots when gathered make a very pretty indoor decoration. The Winter Sweet {Chimonanthus fragrans) will flower well against a wall. It is, like the Jasmine, deciduous, and the waxy lemon-coloured flowers are thickly produced, while their fragrance is delicious. Cake or a Yew Hedge. — A Yew hedge should be clipped and attended to regularly at least once a year. After the hedge is planted it will not require clipping until the second year, though 142 GABDENIKG MADE EAST. any long slioota that stand out beyond the line of the hedge may be cut away at the time of planting. Alwa.ys clip in May, and a second light trimming may be given in September if it is seen that the plants are growing freely and making strong growth. A Yew hedge up to a height of about six feet should be cut square at the sides and flat on the top, but above that height the sides should slope inwards, so that the top is only about half the width of the base. With high hedges cut square it has been found that the top grows at the expense of the base, the latter in time becoming weak and thin. A narrow-topped hedge, also, does not favour the accu- mulation of snow. Neglected Yew Hedges. — If a Yew hedge has been neglected for some years it can be brought into shape again by a thorough overhauling and feeding. In the first place, it should be cut hard back in late spring, just as growth begins, taking care, however, not to go back too haxd, as the Yew does not break freely from old wood. It should also be reduced to half ita former height; this is most important, as, if not cut down, the lower part of the hedge will be bare. At the same time a shallow trench should be dug along each side, about three feet from the stems, and filled up with a mixture of good turfy loam and well-rotted maaure in about equal parts. This is a good way of renewing a hedge which shows signs of weakness. Planting a Box Edge. — Unless this is done with care the edge is never satisfactory. The soil in which the Box is to be planted should be dug deeply, fresh soil added from the border near, and some of the exhausted material removed, if Box grew there before. After digging, tread firmly, add more soil to make up the level, then draw the line tightly and beat down the surface. Cut out a trench deep enough to plant the Box, leaving a straight, firm face for the Box to rest upon. Fix the plants firmly and evenly, about two inches above the ground level. Planting Young Tbees in Place of Old Ones. — If it should be necessary to plant a young tree on the spot from which an old one has been removed, change the soil, or find a new site for the tree. Keep the trees well up in planting, as the earth has a natural tendency to rise, and deep rooting is injurious. Conifeps. There was formerly a rage for Conifers, but very few are satis- factory in gardens. The Chili Pine, or Monkey Puzzle as it is also called, is generally a failure and entirely out of place in a small garden. The Cupressus form the most important group, and the following are the most trustworthy : Thujopsis boreaJis, Cupressus Lawsoniana, C. obtusa, C. pisifera, and C. plumosa. The Maiden- hair Tree (Salisburia adiantifolid), or the Ginkgo biloba as it is also called, is a very hardy Conifer, and a success in quite town gardens. Its foliage turns in autumn to deep orange-yellow. The GARDENINQ MADE EAS"^. Ug Savins or Junipers are very hardy and beautiful. The common isavin will succeed en a dry bank. Juniperus chinensis is a good snrub. Others are Thuia Lobbi or gigantea (it is known under Doth names), T. occidentalis (American Arbor Vitae), a good conifer ror a hedge, and T. ericoides. Conifers require a well-drained soil, and detest smoke. It is useless to plant them in or near large towns, except the Maidenhair Tree. A Few Selections.* Deciduous (those which shed their leave* in winter) Flowering bHRUBB^The Mezereon, Diervillas, Pearl Bush (Exochorda grandi- Jlora), lorsythia suspensa and F. viridissima, Hibiscus syriacus (byrian Mallow), Totus albus and Celeste, Hydrangea panicuiata grandiflora, Mock Orange {Philadelphus grandiflorus), Japanese yumce {Cydoma japonica). Fire Thorn (Cratmgus Pyracantha), Rose Acacia (Eobtnia hispida), Spirsea arguta, S. ariaefolia, Lilacs, and Guelder Rose. Decidcous Floweeing Trees.— The Almond (very pretty in town gardens). Snowy Mespilus {Amelanchier canadensis), Cotoneaater fngida. Double-flowered Thorns, Lily Tree (Magnolia conspieua), Laburnum, Double-flowered Cherry, the flowers pure white (Prunus avium fl. pi.), Pyrus Malua floribunda, P. apectabilis. Evergreen Flowering Shrubs. — Berberia Darwini, B. steno- phylla, Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles and Escallonia macrantha (both tender), Chinese Privet {Ligustrum ginense), Olearia Haasti, Laurustinua. Trees and Shrubs with Beautiful Fruit. — Common Barberry, Arbutus, Cotoneaatera, Thorns, Siberian Crab, Spindle Tree {Euony- mus europasua), Sea Buckthorn (Hippophoe rhamnoides), Hollies, Pernettyas, Wild Guelder Rose, Snowberry (Symphoricarpus), Red- berried Elder {Samhucus racemosa). Evergreen Trees and Shrubs for Planting Near the Sea. — Austrian Pine (this is one of the best of all trees as a shelter: it makes an excellent wind-break), Box, Euonymus, Cupressus macro- carpa, Escalloniaa, Evergreen Oak, Veronica Traversi, Garrya. DBCiDuoua Trees and Shrubs for Same Purpose. — Orange Ball Tree (Buddleia globosa). Sea Buckthorn (excellent), Tamarisk, Fuchsiaa (especially F. Riceartoni and F. globosa), Deutzias, and Leyceateria formosa. Webpinq Trees and Shrubs. — Birch (especially Young's BirchV Beech, Aih, Holly, Willow (Salix babylonica and Gaprea pendula), Elm. Shrubs that will Grow under Trees. — ^Berberis Aquifolium, Box, Snowberry, Ivy, Gaultheria Shallon, St John's Wart {Hyperi- * These are the best and strongest of the various trees and shrubs suitable for small gardens. The beginner may select any one of them, as all are beauti ful. Fines and conifers must not be planted in or near large towns. 144 GAEDENING MADE EAST. cum ealyeiwum), Daphne Laiu'eola, D. pontica, Butcher's Broom (Buscus). Plants for Hedges. — Beech, Box, Cupressus Lawsoniana, Euony- mus, Holly, Hombeain, Privet, Quick or Thorn, Yew, Thuia occi- dentalis. Some flowering shrubs make good hedges, especially the Fuchsias in a mild climate. CHAPTER VII. Hardy Bulbous Plants. This beautiful race of floweni gives the chiel charm to the spring montha. Without the Snowdrop. Crocus, Hyacinth, SciUa, and many other bulbs that " bloom in the spring " our gardens would be far from interesting. The following are a few of the principal groups, with the names of the best varieties in them. Bulbs may be planted not only in a bed or border but under trees, such as in an orchard, where the Anemones (Robinsoniana in particular). Daffodils, Blu&- bells, and many other kinds are quite happy. If the beginner starts with the foUo'wing, all easily grown, the garden will contain a good collection ; but, of course, a selection may be made from these. Chionodoxa (Glory of the ynow).— Delightful little bulbs. Plant two inches deep in autumn, and in light soils the bulbs quickly increase. 0. Lucilise is the best-known, aad its light blue flowers are very pretty ; C. sardensis is deeper in colour, and C. grandiflora has larger flowers, of a, deep mauve-blue. Plant in border and rock garden. Choose C. Lucilise first. Oolchicum, — The well-known Autumn Crocus or Meadow Saffron. The beginner should choose first C. autumnale, of which there are double varieties, the double white being especially beautiful; and the goblet-shaped C. speciosum, large, of a warm rose shade of colour. Plant in August, preferably with a carpeting of Saxifrage or Stone- crop, as withooit this the rains of autumn splash and sully the flowers. Plant six inches deep. If increase of bulbs is wanted, lift in August once in every third year. Crown Imperial. — See Fritillaria. The Crocus. — These are the well-known golden, purple, and the striped Crocuses, and it is not generally known that the time of flowering in this family extends over three seasons. Those that flower in winter must have a frame, but the beginner should be content with the spring-flowering Crocuses. The writer likes C. speciosus, a beautiful deep purple flower, for its beauty in autumn. Plant in summer. The ordinary Dutch Crocuses, those one sees in the great parks and small gardens in March, must be planted in autumn about four inches deep. Daffodils. — This is an immense family, as so many varieties and hybrids have been raised of recent years, but a beginning should be 146 GARDENING MADE EASV. made with the cheaper sorts. There is the true Daffodil and the Poet's Narcissus {N. poetieut), which has white, very fragrant flowers, pretty to look at both in the meadow and also in the house. When the love for the Daffodil deepens, the early-flowering Narcissus minimus and cyclamineus may be grown. Plant Daffodils in Sep- tember, four inches deep, or as soon as possible after this month. Plant the Poet's Narcissus first, as they dislike being long out of the ground. The following are very beautiful sorts : Barri con- spicuous, Barri Sensation, JBarri Maurice Vilmorin, Narcissus bi- color. Empress, Emperor, Horsfieldi, Princeps, Burbidgei Agnes Barr, Burbidgei Falstaff, Incomparabilis Beauty, C. J. Backhouse, Cynosure, Gloria Mundi, Mary Anderson, Sir Watkin, and Stella. The last named is one of the earliest and most charming of all the so-called " Star Narcissi," and very few of the bulbs fail to bloom ; Johnstoni, the Jonquil, Leedsi amabUia, Beatrice, Duchess of West- minster, Gem, Katherine Spurrell, Minnie Hume, N. minor, mini- mus, and cyclamineus (three exquisite Narcissi, especially the last of the three, which requires a moist, peaty soil, but is not exactly a beginner's plant), Ard Righ, Countess of Annesley, Golden Spur, and Mme. de Graaf, Tazetta or Bunch-flowered Narcissus, the Pheasant's Eye, and the double Daffodils, Butter and Eggs, the double Lent Lily (Telamomus plenus). Fritillarias. — The Crown Imperial, a tall strong kind, with a crown of flowers at the top of the spike, flowers in spring. Its bulbs should be planted six inches deep. There are several varieties, all being very effective. It ia surprising how well this Fritillary succeeds in grass. One fault it has is the unpleasant odour of the leaves when touched. Perhaps the most familiar is the pretty native Fritillary (F. Meleagris) of the Engliah meadow. There is a white variety (alba) and speckled or chequered flowers, all drooping and bell- shaped. These are the two kinds to select before others. Plant in autumn, four inches deep in the case of the Snakesheads, as F. Meleagris is called, and in moist soil. Snowdrops (Cfalanthus). — Plant in autumn one inch deep. Galtonia candicans. — This is a huge snowdrop-like flower, with a stem quite three feet high. It will grow in ordinary soil in the border, and looks well amongst low shrubs. Plant in March, six inches deep. It flowers in summer. Hyacinths. — Plant six inches deep in autumn. A mixed selection will give much pleasure. Irises. — The bulbous Irises form a charming group, and are so easily grown that they should be in even the smallest garden. The Englidi Iris is I. xiphioides, and the Spanish Iris is I. xiphium. The former has large, broad-petalled flowers which vary in colour from white to dark purple, according to the variety. In this section, however, white, lavender, and deep blue are the most common; and in the narrower-petalled Spanish Iris, blue, yellow, and white predominate. A variety called Thunderbolt is a lurid bronze shade. The soil must be light; and plant the bulbs in autumn, four inches deep. GARDENINQ MADE EASY. 147 The Eably-Flowbring Irises should he grown in the rock gaxdem or m a window-box. Generally, two inches deep will be suthcient. The first to select is the Violet^scented and coloured XVI etted ins (/. retimlata)^ of which there is a variety called major ■ tue flowers are larger but otherwise the same as those of the type, i. ±5akeriana, Danfordiffl, Histrio, histrioidra, and persica are very cnarming. Once the amateur has become acquainted with the beauty of these Irises, others will be added to the collection. The Snowflakes {Leucojum).—1hQ spring Snowflake is L. vernum, the flower-spike three inches high, the white flowers bell-shaped. L,. sestivum is called the Summer Snowflake, and has a spike two teet high ; the flowers are similar to those of the former. Plant two inches deep, in autumn, in ordinary soil. Grape Hyacinths, known botauically as Muscari. Delightful little early-spring-flowering bulbs, with flowers of various shades of blue, and suitable for rock garden, boocder, or a sunny bank. Plant the bulbs in autumn, two inches deep. We think the deep purple, Violet-scented M. coricum is the finest, but M. botry- oidea is a pretty blue colour. M. conicum may be planted in shrubbery and in bed; it soon becomes established. Stars of Bethlehem.— The Omithogalum family is described generally as "Star of Bethlehem." The pretty white O. umbel- latum increases fast, and is quite easily grown. Plant in autumn, two inches deep. The flowera open wide in the sun. O. nutans is almost a weed, but its greyish white flowers are very attractive. O. arabicum and 0. pyramidal© both have white flowers, but in their cases the spikes are four feet high. Plant the bulbs three inches deep. Lilies. — These form one of the most beautiful of flowering bulbs, and may be grown in the smallest garden with success. No better advice can be given thstn some hints on their culture in that beauti- ful book, " Lilies for English Gardens " : the advice is sound and simple. The writer, on the subject of Buying Lilies, says there are two ways of doing this — the safe and sure way of having home-grown bulbs from a house of good repute, and the risky way of buying imparted ones at auction sales. By following the latter course a much larger number of bulbs may be had, but these are likely to be failures. If on receiving a case of imported bulbs they are found to be limp and flabby, they should, before potting or planting, be put for a time into just damp cocoar fibre, when they will soon plump up. Sometimes they arrive bruised or partly decayed. The worst had better be burnt at once ; any that seem worth saving, or have only small, blue-mouldy patches, may be benefited by being well dusted with powdered charcoal or treated with dry powdered sulphur, getting the cleansing and fungoid- growth-destroying powder well in between the scales. It is best not to buy imported bulbs of L. auratum early in the season; the first consignments often contain bulbs insufficiently ripened. Those that reach England after Christmas are likely to be better. 148 GAKDENING MADE BAST. Lilies as Pot Plants. — For pot culture, the Lilies that do best and at the same time are the most useful for the decoration of dwel- ling-house or conservatory are : longiflorum, candidum (Madonna or White LUy), auratum, and stpeciosiuni among the hardiest and easiest; then Krameri, Brownii, and the tender Indian kinds, sul- phureum (Wallichianum), odorum, and Lowi. The compost that will suit most LUies is a mixture of good loam and peat with a little leaf-mould, in the proportion of two parts fibrous loam, one part fibrous peat, with a little leaf-mould and sand. This may be called the stock Lily compost. It may be with advantage varied as fol- lows : — For candidum, rather heavier loam and a little lime rub- bish; for speciosum, heavier loam; for Krameri, Brownii, sul- phureum, odorum, etc., rather lighter loam; for longiflorum, rather more manurial matter, but, of course, well decayed. Pots. — These should be roomy, and, above all, deep, especially for the Lilies that make stem roots. Out of those named aibove, these will be all but the Madonna Lily {candidum). The stem- rooting LUies are generally potted low in the pot, and additional compost is added when the stem roots appear; this will have to be a little richer than the compost in which the bulb is first potted. LILT THAT MAKES STEM KOOIS, THAI MAKES NO STEM BOOTS, STTOH AS L. AUBATTJM. 8TJ0H AS L. OANMDUM. Lilium longiflorum under glass is apt to be attacked by greenfly, crowds of which assemble in the rather closely gathered leaves at the top of the stem whem it is half grown. Fumigating should be begun in good time and kept up at intervals. If they are wanted early, they must be kept in a moist atmosphere, well watered, and often syringed. For starting the bulba, no way is better than plunging them in a bed of aahes four inches deep over the pots, as is done with Hyar cinths; then the pots will be tianaf erred to house or cold frame as they are wanted for use indoors in the earliest months or later in the open. GARDENING MADE EASY. 149 Tliose that are for outdoor use can also be potted later. They are kept in a cool frame just safe from frost. When danger from A*f^ 18 over, they are plunged in an ash-bed in the open ground. After the top-dressing, a little weak liquid manure may be given to the speciosum varieties and to longiflorum. Afteh Flowering.— For the treatment of Lilies in pots after the bloom 18 over, the supply of water should gradually be decreased— they should be plentifully watered while growing and flowering— until the stems have turned yellow; they are then fresh potted and kept rather dry in the cold frame for the winter. Planting.— As a rough rule, a Lily is planted at a depth repre- sented by three times that of the bulb, except in the case of the big fleshy-leaved L. giganteum, which is planted baxely underground. But Lilies have two ways of throwing out roots. Some of them, including candidum and all the Martagons, root only at the base of the bulb. But in a great number the bulb makes its first growth by the help of the roots from ita base, known as basal roots ; then, aa soon as the stem begins to rise, it throws out a fresh set from the stem itself, above the point where it comes out of the bulb. These are the roots that feed the later growth of the stem and flower. It follows that if one of these Lilies is planted only just underground, the stem-roots will push out above-ground, and, finding no nourish- ment, the growth of the plant will be checked. But if these stem- roots are well underground, and their strong growth is further encouraged by the rich muloh that is recommended, and by frequent waterings in dry days of spring and early summer, the stem-roots can do their duty in supplying the stem and flowers with the need- ful nourishment. Useful List of Lilies. — The following Lilies root from the rtem as well as the bulb, and therefore require deep planting: auratum (including all varieties), Batemannise, Brownii, croceum, Dalhansoni, elegans, Hansoni, Henryi, Krameri, longiflorum, nepalense, specio- sum, tigrinum (Tiger Lily). The following root from the bulb only, and therefore do not need such deep planting : Burbanki, canadense, candidum (Madonna Lily), chalcedonicum (Scarlet Lily), excelsum, giganteum, Grayi, Humboldtii, Martagon, pardalinum (Panther Lily), pomponium, superbum (Swamp Lily), azovitmanum, and Washingtonianum. The Scillas. — This is one of the first bulbous groups the beginner should make a note of. The Bluebell is a Scilla (iS^. nutans), and it has several varieties, but the rose and the white are the prettiest. Very much like this is the Spanish Bluebell, or S. campanulata, which is also blue, and, like the English Bluebell, has varieties which are very similar in colour. Plant the bulbs in each case two inches deep. The Spanish Bluebell grows well almost sinywhere— even in the suburban garden. It never fails. S. bifolia and the Siberian Scilla flower quite early in spring, and then blue flowers are very welcome. Winter Daffodil. — This is Sternbergia lutea, and blooms in autumn. 150 GARDENING MADE EASY. Its yellow flowers are suggestive of those of the Crocus. A light, well-drained soil ia needful. Plant the bulbs, early in August, five inches deep. The Tulip. — This ranks with the Daffodil and the Hyacinth. There are two great sections — the early flowering and the May flowering. We will take the early group fir«t. Plant the bulba four inches deep, in early November, in fairly rich soil, and they may be planted in beds or borders — wherever, in fact, it is desired to make bright masses of colour. Choose from the folloiwing varieties : Ophir d'or, yellow; Maes, scarlet; Prosperine, rose, Keizerskroon, red and yellow; Rosa Mundi, blush; Coleur de Cardinal, crimson; White Pottebakker, all singles: ; and of the dooibles: Vuurbaak, rosy scarlet; Voltaire, crimson; and Rose Blanche, white. The Late Tulips. — These are ma.gnifice(nt. Gesner's Tulip should be the first chofiem. Its tall, strong stem bears a crimson, globular flower of dazzling beauty; and also very handsome are Macrospila, rose, very sweet; fulgens, crimson, long tapering segments; Picotee, white, with rose edge ; Bouton d'or, yellow ; and Golden Crown, yellow and orange-yellow edge. Retroflexa is another beautiful yellow. Plant these four inches deep in good soil. A few Parrot Tulips should be included; these are strangely-shaped flowers of bizarre colourings; and a selection may be made from the late Darwin race of Tulips. Besides those mentioned, include, of the late Tulips: The Fawn, dove colour; Ixioides, canary yellow, black base to the flower; La Merveille, terra cotta; Mauriana, orange- scarlet and old gold; The Moor, scarlet, jet-black base; Shandon Bells, apricot-yellow at first, changing to magenta; and The Sultan, almost black. Hyacinths in Water. — A very common way of growing Hyar cinths is in water, and the way to proceed is as follows : — As far as we can ascertain, the colour of the glass has no influence on the progress of the growth. The bulb must not come into actual contact with the water, but almost so, and the water should be either rain or obtained from a pond. We notice that the water is frequently changed, but this is a mistake. It should never be changed, but kept sweet by a small piece of charcoal at the bottom of the glass. As the water evaporates — ^which, of course, it will do — and is also taken up by the root, renew it. After the bulbs are in position, place them in a dark cupboard for about six weeks. Strong roots will have been emitted by then, and transference to a light place will promote a sturdy development of the spike and bright colouring in the flowers. There is very little difiference in the ^haviour of the various varieties, but we think the pink sorts are the least satis- factory. Gbowing Bulbs in Moss Fibre. — Mr. Sydenham, the well-known nurseryman of Tenby Street, Birmingham, points out in the follow- ing notes the good results that accrue from growing bulbs in moss fibre : — " When growing bulbs in vases without drainage, it is very necessary first to rub the dry fibr« until it is free from luiops, ihen GARDENING MADE EASY. 151 add the shell, and water a little at a time, using water at the rate ot four quarts to each half-bushel, until the necessary quantity haa been mixed. If the mixing haa been properly done, the fibre wiU increase m bulk by nearly one-third. Before potting, put a few pieces of charcoal m the bottom of the vase to absorb impurities and keep the mixture sweet, then put in from one inch to two inches of the compost at the bottom, according to the size of the vaae; place the Narcissi, Eoman Hyacinths, Tulips, Freesias, or whatever 18 being potted, gently on the fibre, after which fill up the vases to withm one inch of the rim. When potting, although desirable to see that the compost is placed well round the bulbs, it is not neces- sary or desirable to press it at all tightly, otherwise the roots do not work freely in the fibre; but thejjulbs have a tendency to push themselves upwards,, as is often !Ee c^e with "thd'sS'potted, too firmly "^._2S^- "^ten once potted they will require (ittle oar no attention For the first two or three weeks, but after that great care should be taken to keep the compost fairly moist, but on no account must it be sodden or too wet. On the other hand, if once allowed to get dry, if only for half an hour, the pores of the roota close up and the bulbs in many cases go blind and are ruined. This more frequently happens with Tulips than Narcissi, the Tulip roots being finer and therefore requiring extra attention. The vases should be examined at least once a week, and a little water given when nec'essary; this necessity will quickly be indicated, for as soon as all surplus moisture is absorbed, the fibre becomes dry at the top; on the other hand, if it is thoiught there is too much moisture in the vase, turn it on one side and allow the surplus water to drain out. When the bulbs are potted, the vaaes or jars should be kept in an airy cellar or room : nothing is worse than a confined cupboard or a small, airless, dark rooon. When the bulbs have grown about on© inch out of the fibre they should be brought into more light and given as much air as po^ble, for if air is not given the foliage becomes unnaturally long and weak, and the flower is either killed or is very poor. Where a cool house or frame cannot be used, put them on the window sill or garden path during the day, taking care, of course, to keep them from frost. " Thb Best Bxjlbs to Ghow in Fibee. — ^First, I should recom- mend Roman Hyacinths. If a few are potted each fortnight from September, a succession of these charming flowers may be had until the end of January. I should next recommend the Paper-white Narcissus. The French Monarque Polyanthus Narcissus is a charm- ing variety, which, by the by, is quite different from the Dutch, coming into bloom about the middle of January, or later than the Paper-white, but earlier than the Dutch Grand Monarch. The flowers are smaller but more numerous, and the foliage longer and more plentiful. The various varieties of Dutch Polyanthus Nar- cissi do well in fibre, as they are dwarfer and throw infinitely better blooms and more of them, than the Joss Lily or Sacred Lily of China ' Tha Trumpet Daiffodils I advise for growing m vases m 162 GABDENDfG MADE EAST. fibre are, first of all, obvallaris. It has a very bright yello-w flower, which is thrown well above the abundant foliage, each bulb gener- ally having from twelve to sixteen leaves or blades of foliage. Next to obvallaris comes Henry Irving, which is scunewhat similar to a Tenby Daffodil, but has a larger and bolder flower. Golden Spur and Empress also do wonderfully well treated in this way. Victoria, a rather new bicolor, does wonderfully well in the larger vases, and each bulb generally throws two, and often three, flowers from a first- sized bulb. Emperor always makes a handsome display. Of the Star-shaped Narcissi, I recommend Mrs. Langtry before all; it is a most certain bloomer, very floriferous, genersilly throwing two, and very often three, flowers from each bulb, and it has also a very pretty foliage. Campemelle mguloaus, with its rush-like foliage and pretty star-like flowers, generally two or three on a stem, always does well in these vases. Sir Watkin, the giant of the incomparar bilia section, makes a grand display. Barii conspicuus, with its lovely rich orange cup, generally throws two or three flowers from a first- size bulb, and for culture in vases is a grand variety, and should be grown by all. " Hyacinths, I find, do wonderfully well in moss fibre. There is more nourishment in it than in cocoanut fibre refuse, and it may be used in glass bottles instead of in plain water ; but a lump or two of charcoal should always be put at the bottom to keep the composi- tion sweet. Tulips also thrive admirably in fibre in china vasea, but special care is required to seiO that they do not get dry at the roots. Muscari or Grape Hyacinths, I have always found do won- derfully well in fibre; so do Spanish Iris. The only thing to bear in mind in growing these Irises in the vases is that the foliage comes a long time before the flowers ; a little, thin, blade-like foliage will often appear in February or even January, but it is very rarely that the flowers appear before April or May. Crocuses, ScUlas, and various other small bulbs do fairly well, but I have not found them quite so successful as the Narcissi, Tulips, and Hyacinths. I have had very good results from Anemones, but these seem to want potting a little firmer than ordinary bulbs. I have also had some of the finest liliums I have ever grown treated in this way. I have tried Begonias grown in moss fibre, and have had very fair •uccess ; in fact, the results may be achieved with many things apart from bulbs, such aa Perns, " Btjlbs afteh Floweeing. — In April many amateur gardeners either do not think of the value of bulbs forced foof the house or sire puzzled as to the best way of disposing of them. AH such bulbs, after the flower-spikes have faded, should be treated thus : — The old flowers should be cut off, and the pots, bowls, etc., consigned to some place, such aa the tool-shed, where they will not be seen. Then water so aa to keep them plump, and gradually decrease th« amount given. When the leaves turn yellow and die down, shake off the old soil, and carefully sort Daffodils, Hyacinths, Spiraaa, Tidips, Scillas, Crocuses, etc. With these, uninteresting shrubberies, backs of GAHDENING MADE EASY. 153 borders, and grass under trees caai be brightened. Such bulbs flower well if properly planted. Some good soil should be mixed — ^loam, cow manure, and leaf-mould. Remove the piece of turf over the proposed hole, take out much of the old soil, and repla.ce with the new. It ia as well to give a layer of sharp sand under each bulb. Well ram soil round, and replace the piece of turf. In the borders, etc., annuals, of course, can be sown ove^* Lhe top at once, and will soon cover the spots, or, even better still, the Evergreen Candytuft. Tulips do excellently in the grass, but the short-stalked Van Thol section should be planted on the edges where the grass will not over- run them. There is usually little need to cut grass under dense trees early, and a succession of bulbs will render such dreary spots a delight to the owner. Bulbs grown in water are best planted out directly after flowering, and a pot turned over them for a few days to protect them a little." CHAPTER VIII. Site for a Kitchen Garden. On a clay or heavy ■oil the site shoxdd be, as fax as poesible, fully exposed to the sun. On a dry or gravelly soil the position is of less importance. Generally, the garden should be sheltered from cold, sweeping winds; and where so exposed, either a high wall or close wooden fence should be erected, or a dense hedge of Holly or of Whitethorn and Privet intermixed should be planted and kept hard trimmed to make it close. Alloiw it to grow to a height of from six feet to eight feet. Such shelters have great value in windy weather if on the windward side of the garden. In laying out a garden in any position, the paths and the garden quarters shooild be so arranged that the crops when sown or planted run in rows as much aa possible from, south to north, to enable the sun to play on both sides during the day. It m.ay not be always possible to Eirrange the quarters in this way, but generally this is the case. Naturally, the kitchen garden should be behind the residence to which it is attached. Apart from the convenience of this position, one must take into account the unsightliness of manure and vegetable refuse heaps and perhaps the poidtry run. In planning a kitchen garden, not only should care be taken that there is ample access to it for manure, soil, and other requisites, but frames or similar erections, such as a little greenhouse, should be close at hand and face south. How TO Crop. — Before cropping a kitchen garden in any way, it is of the first importance to well prepare the ground by digging it deeply. A stiff clay soil should be well broken up twenty inches deep, and the bottom soil left still in its place. With this form of soil should be well mixed all sorts of roadside or ditch trimmings, road scrapings, decayed leaves or other vegetable matter, wood ashes, old mortar (sifted), soot, and lime. All such materials are manurial, and help to keep the soil open, porous, and sweet. Dry or loose soils should be quit© aa deeply worked, and may have the addition of clay (first exposed for several weeks on the surface in winter), well-decayed horse or cow manure, and ditch trimmings, aa these help to give the soil solidity and highly fertilise it. When any fresh garden soil has been treated thus during the winter, it is in excellent condition in March or April for spring crapping, which CABDENma MAD£ EASY. 155 may begin early in March and on fairly dry soils in February. Make a Bowing of some early Peas, Longpod Beans, Early Hom Carrot, Radish, and Lettuce on the warmest borders. At the end of the month make sowings in the open ground of Paxsnips in rows twelve inches apart, also of Onions, Nantes Carrot, Turnip-rooted Beet, and, if desired. Spinach aoid White Turnip. More sowings may be made of Peaa and Longpod Beans. In April, Potatoes may be planted, first on warm borders, and, later in the month, late varieties in the open ground. Cabbage and Cauliflower plant* raised in a frame from a sowing made in pans in February should then be ready to plant out. Other Peaa, also Runner and Dwarf French Beans, Long Beet, late or maincrop Carrots, White Turnips, and similar crops may follow until practically the entire ground is cropped. Lateir, Autumn Giant Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Kales, and other winter greens, raised from sowings made in shallow drills on a sunny aspect in March, may follow spring-sown crops as fast as they are cleared off, or be put out between altefmate rows of Potatoes. In July a small sowing of Nantes Carrot for winter pulling; also in July and August successive sowings on cleared ground can be made of more Spinach, White Turnip, Cabbage, Lettuce, and Radish, and in August only a sowing of Onion seed for the winter. Thus it is seen that distinct crops follow each other in natural order, the positions for the chief ones, such as Potatoes, Peaa, Cabbage, and winter greens, being changed each year. Plots of Asparagus, Sea Kale, and Rhubarb may be made in cooler positions and where, being permanent, they do not interfere with regular croppings. The Importance of Trenched Ground.— Trenching is a necessity, eapeciaUy where good vegetables are desired. It should be invaxi- ably performed during the winter months, on plots that are for the time uncropped and have not been deeply worked previously or for several years. The first effort in trenching where soils have not been Shows a deep or vertical section of deep trenching after the ground lias W previously well worked. Both top and bottom spits of twelve ■ i,ffTf «oil are thrown out, and the hard bottom sod is forked and ri up twel^i^'^rdeep.' The enti™ body of two feet erf soil from th^ next trench is thrown out, and bo on throughxrat the plot. 156 GARDENING MADE EASY. SO previously treated is to do it in such a way that the lower or subsoil be not brought to the surface. This is described as half or bastard trenching. Were the lower sour soils brought to the surface at once, crops would fail or growth be very poor in consequence. For that reason these subsoils are not only left where found for some time, but as they become sweet and fertile the upper good soil is gradually mixed or incorporated with them, so that in time the entire worked depth is sweet and productive. After several years of such treatment, trenching may take a complete form, the lower soil being brought to the surface and the top soil buried low down, but being in its turn brought up again some three years later. A surface example of how to trench a plot of ground. Open a trench two feet wide at the left-hand end of one half. Then trench the whole strip as marked, returning on the other half. Finish where soil from the first trench has been placed for the purpose of filling. In half trenching a plot of ground, if broad, the operator must start by dividing it intO' twoi equal portions', running a mark down the centre to form a division, then throwing out at one end of one of the halves the whole of the top soil down to a depth of twelve inches and a width of twenty-four inches upon the adjoining soil. With a strong fork thoroughly break up the bottom soil fully twelve inch^ deep, and leave it there. It is am admirable plan, when manure is at hand, to cast in upon this broken bottom a liberal dressing, and refork that into the soil. Then from the next width of two feet throw on to the first trench the whole top soil, twelve inches deep, and the first trench is filled and complete. Keep on repeating this trenching process until the entire half of the plot is done. Then open a trench ocE the same width and depth at that end of the other half, using the soil taken out to fill up the eiad trench of the first half, and that portion is completed. Then the process has to be repeated with the second half until that also is done. Trenching is laborious work, but always pays well for its per- formance, therefore great care should always be taken that the whole of the soil be worked deeply and equally. If the surface GARDENING MADE EASY. 157 soil, after trenching, needs a manure dressing, get it on with a barrow, putting down planks on which to wheel. Then spread the manure and well fork it in, and the plot will be in first-rate con- dition for cropping in the spring. In complete trenching, throw out from the first trench the entire depth of two feet of soil and of that width. The bottom should then be deeply forked up, and the whole of the soil from the next trench of same width and depth cast into it. That process naturally brings the lower soil to the surface, but it may b© practised with the best results when the whole body of soil has become thoroughly sweetened. Useful Vegetables. Artichokes. — There are two sections of these, the globe and Jerusalem. Sow the seed of the former in a shallow drill outdoors, and thin to twelve inches apart. Lift them in November, and plant in a deepi soil, four feet apart. The growth is very vigorousi. The edible part consists of the green-pointed scales, or the flower-buds cut whilst close. New growths will bei seen each winter, and must be protected. If an increase of stock ia desired, lift the required number of snckers, with soil adhering to them, and plant into fresh ground. But only a few are required in the majority of households. The Tuberoiis Artichoke belongs to the Sunflower family, and is easily recognised by its tall growth and large leaves and the irregular- shaped waxen tubers. Plant the tubers in March in ordinary soil six inches deep and in rows two feet apart. Jerusalem Artichokes are often used as a screen, and therefore in this case serve a double purpose. The stems decay in November, and the roots may be used during winter. The Chinesb Aetichoke is seldom grown in the small garden. It is called Stachyg tuberifera, and produces a quantity of small tubers not unlike a long shell in shape. Plant in February, in rows twenty inches apart and twelve inches in the rows, and in deep, rich soil. Put them four inches deep. Growth is very vigorous, but bushy and dwarf, and the tubers should be left in the soil, taking them out only as required. It is a delicious vegetable. Asparagus. — There will be no space in the very small garden for Asparagus, but it is so delicious and nutritious a vegetable that probably an effort will be made to grow as large a quantity as possible. It ia not in the least difficult to grow, and the subject is BO pithily summed up in my larger book on gardening for beginners that the information may well be reproduced. Asparagus is propa- gated by sowing seed, for that is abundantly produced and is cheap. For the reception of the seed the ground should be dug deeply, and well manured in winter. If it runs together, then it should be lightly forked over early in April ; but if it remains light and loose, drills may be drawn and seed sown thinly along them about the middle of that month. Drills shoxdd be fourteen inches apart and an inch deep. When growth is good, and the shoots are four inches 158 QAEDENING MADE EASY. in height, the seedling plants should be thinned out to six incshes apart, the soil about them being kept well hoed and clean all the season. In the autumn the stems die down, leaving strong, fleshy roots, having a cluster of crowns in the centre. To make a per- manent bed, trench during the winter a piece of ground of sufficient size quite two feet in depth, mixing with the bottom soil a good dressing of half -decayed manure. Do the same with the top spit of soil, so that, the sides being deep, the ground is well enriched with manure early in April. With the aid of a garden line, throw out trenches four inches deep and seven inches wide and two and a half feet apart. Into them put the best of the seedling Asparagus roots, lifted for the purpose, at two feet apart, and cover them up and make the soil level. Growth the first year should be strong, and can be materially helped by sitrewing over and hoeing into the soil, after the stems are twelve inches in height, a little dressing of coarse salt or of nitrate of soda. Weeds must be kept down all the summer. In the autumn the growths will again die down. During the winter a top-dressing of manure may be laid across the rows. The treat- ment the second year must be aa for the first year, and the same in winter. Then the following spring, or third season, some of the stems as they appear above ground may be cut for eating up to the middle of June, and the following year cutting may go on till the end of that month, and the 89.me for many years afterwards. Dressings of salt or of nitrate of soda may be given each summer and of manure each winter, and, so treated, a bed as advised, not raised, but kept level with the ground, will prove the most profitable. But it is useless to put out plants unleaa the ground is well prepared. Beans. — There are several classes of these. A dish of Broad Beans is always acceptable, and in the country this vegetable is eaten largely. Sow in March in well-prepared soil, and when about fifteen inches of flowers are open, pinch out the top of the stem to check growth. Do not sow later than March, otherwise the black- fly becomes very troublesome. Sow in drills four inches deep, ten inches apart, and the seeds four inches from each other in the drills. Of the varieties select the Green Windsor. The Runner and French Beans are very easily grown. The Scarlet Runner is so easily grown that it should be one of the first vegetables for the beginner to choose. The soil should be deep and well manured, and perhaps there is an unsightly place to hide. No vegetable is more appropriate as a screen than the Runner Bean. If it possessed no nutritious qualities, it would be grown for it® beauty of growth and of flower. Sow the seeds three inches deep, six inches apart, in drills six inches from each other. When the summer is very hot it is wise to mulch over the soil above the roots with stable manure or give an occasional soak- ing of liquid manure. Sow early in May, and support the growth in good time with feathery sticks. Keep gathering the pods, as, when allowed to remain long, they become tough and stringy and a source of weakness to the plant. Ne Plus Ultra, Tender and True, and the ordinary Scarlet Runner GAEDENING MADE EASY. 159 are excellent varieties. The Dwarf Kidney or Frenoli Bean is another favourite vegetable. It requires ordinaiy soil, and is not so profitable as the Runner Bean. Sow the seeds three inches deep m drills of the same depth, the rows to be from twenty-four inches to thirty inches apart. Everything, ol course, depends upon the size of the garden, but where possible make a sowing every fort- night, beginning in the middle of April and finishing at the end of July. Ne Plus Ultra is the best variety. Beetroots. — A wholesome root, and the varieties to choose are the Blood-red Globe-shaped, and, of the tapering sorts. Dell's Crimson or Nutting's Red are the best. The Blood-red is the earliest. The ground should not be freshly manured for Beet, but sow the crop on soil well prepared for some other vegetable. Sow early in April, an inch deep, the rows to be a foot apart. Sow thinly, and coves the seeds with fine soil. Thin out the seedlings to six inches apart in the rows. The roots may be used when they are only half grown, but early in Augfust they reach maturity. The Tapering Beet grows well in the autumn, and the sowing should take place about the second week in May, the rows to be fourteen inches apart. Be careful, when hoeing between the roots, that the roots are not injured. Broccoli. — A well-known vegetable. The plants do not come into bearing the same year as the seed is sown. If the space will admit of it, make a sowing of an early variety and also of a late one. Seed of the early sorts, which will arrive at maturity early in the fol- lowing year, should be sown in March or April, and the others in May. Plant out the former in June and the others in late August. Rich ground ia needful, and tread well about the plants so as to make the soil quite firm. A piece of ground from which Peas have been removed will suit the Broccoli. The Purple-sprouting Broccoli is very hardy. Sow the seed in April or May, and there will be a crop ready the following February or March. Choose, of the early Broccoli, Early White or Christmas White, and, of the later. Late Queen or Model. r nj- i. j ■ Brussels Sprouts.— Sow seed in the middle of March, and it must be protected with nets from the birds. Plant out early in June and there will be a return in the way of delicious little sprouts on the stems in the following November. The sprouts should be cut off, not pulled. Imported Brussels is a good variety. The Cabbage.— Make the first sowing in shallow drills nine inches apart about the 20th of July, and a further sowing about the 2nd of August In our varying climate there is an advantage in dividing our packet of seeds and making two sowings. Birds are fond of the seeds of the Cabbage tribe, and the seeds should either be dressed with red-lead or the seed-beds covered with fishing-nets, which can ffenerallv be purchased cheaply second-hand. Cabbages are gross feeders and the soil should be in good condition as regards manure though' for early cutting it is better to plant on land which is nch Without fresh manuring. The beat course is to let the early spring 160 GAEDENING MADE EASY, Cabbages follow the Onioii crop, as tbe land is usually well manured for Onions, and they are not an exhausting crop. As soon as the Onions are cleared off, give a dressing of soot or guano, or a mixture of the two — say, a peck of soot and three pounds of guano per square rod. Hoe this in deeply or fork the ground over lightly. Cabbage will stand the winter better and will come earlier if planted in firm ground. We do not mean the firmness of unmoved ground, but whelre it was trenched for a preceding crop and has had time to settle. September is the time to plant Cabbages for spring use, as then the plants get a firm grasp of thei soil before the cold weather comes. The best varieties are the small, close-hearted kinds, and these do not require so much space as the large, coarse kinds. Ellam's Early, Early Heartwells, or other small close^hearting kinds for early use, may be planted one foot apart each way. They shelter each other and com© into use quickly. We generally plant a patch on the early border nine inches apart, and when the hearts are large enough for use they axe cut and the stems pulled up. The later Cabbages, where the stems are permitted to stand for a second crop, must, of course, have more room. These are commonly planted in rows two feet apart and eighteen inches apart in the rows. Enfield Market and Wheeler's Imperial are suitable kinds for late use. An early Cab- bage is always appreciated, but when summer comes, and Peas, French Beans, and Cauliflowers are plentiful, the Cabbages are generally given to the pigs — assuming the early Cabbages follow the Onions. After the ground has been dressed with something of a stimulating nature, draw drills twO' inches deep the requisite dis- tance apart — say, one foot for small early kinds — and plant in the drills one foot apart, so that each plant has a square foot to grow in, which is ample where the Cabbages are cut as soon as large enough for use and the ground cleared for the next crop. We have known the early Cabbage crops cleared in time to plant Potatoes, the ground being manured and dug and the Potatoes planted in the first week of May. The Potatoes were sprouted ready to go out. Stir the surface among the plants often. This has a value besides destroying weeds. Insects, such as slugs, etc., do not often gather where the hoe is used freely. A further sowing for autumn use should be made in March or early in April. One of the early quick- hearting sorts will be suitable, and they will be ready for planting out in July in rows eighteen inches apart and fifteen inches apart in the rows. All Cabbages should be earthed up a little to en- courage and shelter the growth, and there is an advantage when they are nearly full grown in paasing a string of matting round the plants to draw the leaves up to enclose the heart. This hastens the hearting, and ia so far an advantage. Very often a few seeds of an early-hearting kind are sown early in June, and these are planted thickly in any vacant piece of ground to be used as Colewort during winter. A quickly grown green Cabbage is superior to anything that lingers and is long in turning in. GAEDENING MADE EASY. 161 CJlub in the Cabbage Tribe. — Tlda is the work of a single grub ■which attacks the plants of this family chiefly in a young state. There are various remedies, such as lime, soot, and salt. So far as our experience goes, a puddle made in a pail of Gishurst's Compound, 2 oz. to the gallon, and |-oz. tobacco powder, the mixture to be thickened with lime, eoot, and cow manure, the roots of the plants to be dipped in this puddle and planted immediately, is as efficacious as any. The planter dips the roots of the plants in the pail of puddle, and takes them out one at a time, with the mixture adhering, as he moves across the ground. There are other things which may be usefully done, such as chang- ing the ground, and giving dressings of lime, soot, and salt. The destruction among those plants ia great in some gardens where rotation of crops is not much considered. Probably in the future these and other evils arising from insect attacks and fungoid diseases / may be met in an easy and cheap way by using Vapourite or some- thing of a similar nature. Carrots. — Sow Carrots at the end of April, and the New Inter- mediate is as good a variety as any, and the root when well grown is a foot in length. Well trench the soil, and manure must be given long before the seed is sown. Drills, as drawn with a wood hoe beside a garden line, should be twelve inches apart and comparatively shallow. Although it is sometimes difficult to get Carrot seed to germinate when sown in July, yet it should be the aim of all who like these roots young and tender during the winter to make a good sowing of seed in that month. Just then early Peas, Potatoes, and other crops being removed leaves ground available for a sowing of Carrot seed. The best varieties are the blunt-rooted Model or the New Intermediate. One excellent result of such a summer sowmg, made in drills ten inches apart, is that the tops keep green all the winter When severe weather sets in, cover up a portion of the bed with long straw-litter or fern, so as to exclude frost and enable pullings to take place. Maincrop Carrots have to be lifted from the ground and stored, when cleaned of dirt and side roots, in dry sand or ashes in any cool, airy cellar or outhouse, the crowns being m all cases outwards. . , , , , . , ,, „, Cauliflowers.— The soil must be rich and deep, which means that it must haTbeen trenched and manured. They may follow any crop except members of the Cabbage tnbe. They are often planted in manured trenches: especially is this desirable where the natural BoU is of a porous nature. Years ago it was the custom to plant a portion of the early crop under handlights, four plants under eacKght- and a good position for a Cauliflower trench is along the ?ront of a forcinglouse, where the plants are set out about nine nches apart. These plants produced close white hearts rather Ser than a breakfastcup, which is quite large enough for a gentle- S table. Some allowance should be m^e f°^ ^^^ ^^'^-i^f 3*^^ place but usually the first sawing is made from the 18th to the 30th S Au^st, and a further small sowing may be made about the mddle 162 GARDENING MADE EASY. of September in a cold frame. Those who must have good Cauliflowers cannot afford to take risks, so the packet of seeds is divided and sown at intervals. Sometimes the early-sown plants may button, as it is termed, prematurely and be useless, but the next sowing comes right and fills the blanJj. A further sowing is usuaJly made under glass in gentle heat in February; and if wo had to depend upon one sowing, it would be the February sowing under glass for earliness. In all cases the plants must be pricked off, the open-air sowing in August to be transplanted in a cold frajne in a specially prepared bed of soil six inches apart, where they will remain till planted out in March or April. The plants in the frame must be very freely ventilated, in mild weather the lights to be taken off altogether, and even in cold weather the lights to be propped up at the back to keep the plants robust and sturdy. When transplanting in spring, lift with a trowel to remove all the roots intact with as much soil as will cling to them, firming them well in the ground. This firm fix- ture of the roots in the ground is essential to success for all members of the Cabbage tribe. Water must be given after planting to settle the plants in the ground if the soil is dry, and at all seasons Cauli- flowers must be well nourished if they are to grow quickly and produce close white hearts. The February Sowing Under Glass. — The seeds are usually sown thinly in pans or boxes, in a temperature of 60° or 70°, in a light position. Keep the soil in an even state as regards moisture, not permitting the little plants to get dry enough to wilt and then deluging them with water. Sucih treatment produces plants with black legs, which is caused by a fungoid disease. This is entirely due to careless watering. When the plants are large enough to handle, they are pricked off three inches apart in another box or potted off singly in small pots. We generally, having plenty of room, use small pots, and keep them on a shelf in a greenhouse for a lime, and then harden off in cold frames and plant out in April in the warmest position available. A later batch of plants comes on for succession, to be planted in various positions. There should always be Cauli- flowers in season from May till Christmas. This can be managed by sowing again outside in March or early in April, and a further sowing of Walcheren in May, to be planted tmt in June and July. There is some advantage in planting in different aspects. We have often cut good Cauliflowers on the north border when those growing in a sunny spot were opening out from the heat, and even a good supply of water will not always prevent this. Therefore make use of various aspects for the summer Cauliflower if possible. Veitch's Autumn Giant is a very useful Cauliflower for hot weather in August and for late work during the autumn. We have had it in season till Christmas — taken up with boxes and planted in a deep, cool pit. To have late kinds in August or a little earlier, the »eedB must be sown early. We generally sow a few seeds outside towards the end of August, and again a few under glass in February, GARDENING MADE EASY. 163 and a pinch of seed again in April. For those three sowings one ounce of seed suffices to give us all the plants we require. It is only a question of spreading the sowing to make sure of a crop ready for use at the right time. If we had to depend upon one early Cauli- flower, it would be the Early Erfurt, but, as it is, several varieties are sown, including Veitch's Early Forcing. These are planted in a trench in front of a forcing-house, and are well cared for, and come in early. Early London and Walcheren used to be our mainstay, but we have been rather disappointed with them on some occasions. We thought there had be©n a lack of care in selecting the seed- plants. They are excellent when true, the Walcheren especially for sowing in May to produce close white hearts during late summer and autumn. The Autumn Giant, though always reliable, generally comes too large for table; otherwise this is an excellent Cauliflower, and is succeeded by Veitch's Self-protecting Autumn Broccoli, which is an excellent vegetable. Here, also, there is an advantage in making two sowings — the first in April, and the second a little later. Watering and Mulching. — They must have no check at any time, and water and mulch in dry, hot weather will prevent this. When gardeners speak about mulching they generally mean a layer of manure placed round the plants, which keeps the soil cool and moist and gives some sustenance at the same time. But there are other ways of securing the same object in a limited sense. An inch or two of loose, freely stirred soil on the surface retains the mois- ture in the ground, though it does not supply nourishment in the same way that manure does. Celery. — Sow the seed in pans or shallow boxes, and stand in a frame or greenhouse. Celery seed germinates slowly, but March is early enough to sow, making another sowing in April. The seed should be sown in pinches — between the finger and thumb even-— then pressed into the soil and thinly covered. In a cold house it will take about a month to germinate, but in gentle warrnth, of course, germination will be quicker. Gentle watering, shading on sunny days, and keeping near the glass promote a strong growth. When the seedlings are three inches high, dibble them into other pans or, better still, into shallow boxes filled with soil. Put the plants two inches apart. Water, keep near the glass, and gradually harden them off by exposure in a sheltered place, and they will then be prepared for planting outdoors. Whilst this ia going on prepare the trenches to receive the plants. The trenches should be fifteen inches wide and any length desired. The top soil should be thrown out on one side, ten inches deep. If the next ten inches of soil below is poor or sour, throw that out on to the other side, and in its place cast the top soil. Fork down the sides of the trench an inch each side add a heavy dressing of well-decayed manure, and well mix it with the soil. Then plant the Celery along the centre of the trench, and use a trowel for the purpose. Place the plants nine inches apart in the rows. Tread the soil on each side of the plants to make it firm and when all are in, water freely. When the weather is hot 164 GABDENING MADE EASY. and sunny, shade the plants during the day by laying branches of trees, sticks, mats, or newspapers along the trenches. In a few days the plants will be well rooted. The bottom soil will do later on for moulding up the plants. Where the subsoil ia good, do not throw it out, but add the manure to it, fork it well in, and mix it, and throw in two inches of the top soil before planting. Give liquid manure once or twice a week, and then a good soaking of pure water. Begin to mould up when the plants are 15 inches high. Before doing so, if any very short leaf stems have formed outside the plants, pick them ofi. Only add soil in moulding up in dry weather. Draw the leaf stalks up well together, to prevent the soil getting into the heart of the plants. Choose for varieties, Solid White and Ivory White, and of red sorts. Standard Bearer and Leicester Red. , Cucumbers in Frames. — Of these popular products, there are two distinct sections — the Ridge Cucumber, which will grow well in warm positions outdoors, and the Frame Cucumber, always needing house or frame shelter and warmth. The Ridge section can be easily raised by opening holes two feet over and twelve inches deep in a warm part of the garden, filling these holes with warm, half-decayed manure, mixing with it in so doing some soil, then covering with four inches of soil, leaving it over each hole in the form of a mound. That should be done early in May, and six seeds, three inches apart, be sown on each mound, sin inch deep. These should be protected till growth takes place, by having boxes or tubs inverted over them. When growth is good, give ample light and air in the day, but cover at night until the plants are strong. Before that is so, it will be well to pull out one half of them on each mound. After the weather becomes warm, the plants need little attention beyond occasional liberal waterings. A good variety is King of the Ridge. House and Feame Cucumbers are of a more tender nature, and require either artificial or sun heat under glass to produce them properly. Seed should be sown thinly in 5-inch pots, filled with light, good soil, putting seven seeds into each pot, and covering them with the soil half an inch deep. The seeds, if there be fire heat in a green-house, or dung heat in a frame, to secure plants for summer fruiting, may be sown early in March, or a little later, as required. After being watered, the pots should be stood where there is most warmth, and covered with paper until the plants are up. Then they should be fully exposed to light and air. If there be but sun warmth, sowing should be deferred until the end of April, by which time the sun will have greater warmth. When in each case the seedlings have formed good leaves, they should be carefully taken from their pots, and, still using good, fine soil, be put singly into 4-inch pots, keeping the stems partially buried in the soil, as from these fresh roots will be emitted. When well rooted in these pots, and several inches in height, the plants are fit to be put out where they are to grow and fruit for the summer. In a house, they may be put singly into 12-inch pots filled with GARDENING MADE EASY. 165 goad, turfy loam and a little old, hotbed manure, well mixed, or in boxes 18 inches by 12 inches and 10 inches deep, then in couples, or be planted out on a raised ridge of soil running along the side of the house. This ridge may be two feet wide at the base and ten inches deep in the centre. On such ridges. Cucumber plants do well. As the roots come through the sides of the ridge, a thin coat of fresh soil can be added occasionally. Both large pots and boxes should be well drained. The ridge of soil may be in turns laid upside down on a wood trellis, to allow warmth from hot water pipes below to penetrate into the soil, or be on boards, just as may be found most convenient. These should rest on cross- bearers, to keep them rather above the pipes. Plants may be 18 inches apart, and, being kept as near the glass as possible, can, as growth taies place, be easily trained on wire or "wood trellises as Vines are, fixed ten inches from the glass roof. The branches need to be thinned now and then, or otheirwise the plants will be- come unduly crowded. As a rule, for plants so grown, three main shoots or branches from each trained up the wires are sufficient. In thinning, first pinch out shoots having no fruits on them. To have good fruits for table, fertilising the flowers on the fruits with pollen taken from the fruitless flowers is not desirable, but if one or more fruits are required to produce seed, then fertilising is necessary. Cucumbers like syringing late in the afternoon, when the sun goes off them, also good waterings two or three times a week, and, when in full fruit, weak liquid manure once a week. If mildew appears on the leaves, they should be heavily dusted with sulphur whilst damp. Coating the hot-water pipes with a solution of sulphur and mUk is also an excellent practice. Similar treatment is needful for plants grown in cold houses, but they must not be planted until there is ample sun warmth. With respect to plants in frames, if manure can be had, it should be from stables, and be turned three or four times, mixed, and watered, and allowed between each turning to become just warm. When so treated, then made up into a solid bed, two feet to three feet deep, it soon heats. A frame just less than the area of the hotbed should be placed over it, and with that some pieces of turf, grass downwards, and on that a couple of inches of turfy loam and manure. Erect in the centre of the frame a mound, six inches deep in the centre. So soon as the steam generates, and which should be allowed to escape by tilting the frame behind moderately, the Cucumber plants may be put into the mound, two usually sufficing for an ordinary frame. Later, they will need ample watering, a little ventilation during the day, and ample thinning as they grow. There ing them in. The seeds should be allowed to germinats gently and as naturally as possible. The plants should be thoroughly hardened off in the open before being put out. Choose, as far as possible, a growing day for the purpose. Allow plenty of room both between the plants and the rows. More Peas are spoilt by sowing too thickly and allowing them to become overcrowded than from any other cause. Plant firmly, draw up a little soil to the growths; stake and net them at the same time. This will afford the necessary protection against weather, and also sparrows, which have a par- ticular liking for the young growths in the early season of the year The planting of these should always be done when about three inches in height, and we advise the first sowing in the open ground on or about the same date when the last sowing is made in boxes. Ths seed should be distributed evenly all along the drills or trenches, just as thick agidn a« it is intended for them to remain, and thin to the proper distance by drawing out the Borplus ones when about two inches high. Mouse-traps should always be temptingly baited and placed along the rows, and the seeds protected with ordinary Pearguards. The roots should be kept well watered and varied with liquid manure. Too much can hardly be given in dry seasons, especially on light, gravelly soils, and to induce the earlier batches especially to mature quickly. After a reasonable quantity of flowers ire produced, the points of the growths shouTd be picked ooit, which will make at least a week's difference to their filling. During dry weather, and especially on light land, mulching is very important, and nothing is better than stable manure. The whole of the ground should be covered between the rows, as it keeps in the moisture and diaintains the roots in a cool condition. Nothing is better for sup- porting the growths of Peas than ordinary Pea^sticks — ^hazel for choice. The bottoms should be sharpened and thrust well into the ground to hold them firmly. The sticks should be put in quite straight, and the tops neatly taken off and stuck in between the stakes to help to give the young plants a start. In addition to this, the taller -growing varieties will oftsn nead lines of stout tarr*d OABDBNIWG MADE KAB7. 171 oord Btretched along the simny side of the rows when the haulm 11 heavily laden with pods. To make an attempt to enumerate all the varietiea worth growing would be quite impossible, and there are many varieties which do admirably in some localities but fail to a great extent in others. We are not much in favour of the very dwarf varieties, except for smaU gardens or narrow, sunny borders. Veitch's Chelsea Gem, Webb's Little Marvel, and American Wonder are all firstrrato in their way. Carter's Daisy, though not so dwarf aa the preceding, is a splendid Pea in every way — a very valuable addition. _ Eeading Giant, Early Mom, and Edwin Beckett are all good varieties of fine appearance, and the quality is of the best. Ihiohess of Albany, Quite Content, Model, Telephon©, and Webb's Stourbridge Mairrow axe fine for succession. Alde(rman is one of the finest and most reliable mid-season varieties, and aa an exhibi- tion Pea is hard to beat. Sutton's Peefrless Marrow is also a grand variety for any purpose. For later sowings, Carter's Michaelmas, Sutton's Late Queen, Webb's Talisman, and Ne Plus Ultra. Sea Kale. — In growing Sea Kale either sow seed or plant root cuttings. If roots having crowns on them bo planted they will certainly produce stems and flowers and not, in such cases, good leaf- crowns. It is better to cut the crowns off level, and thus compel the roots to produce new ones, which will not run to flower. They will produce only stout leaves and, later on, fine crowns. On such roots all young or forming crowns should be thinned out to one in each case. If seed be obtained, it should be sown very thinly in shallow drills such as are drawn for Peas. These drills should be twenty inches apart. The ground should have been well manured and deeply dug in February, and the sowing takes place about the middle of April. Growth will begin in about three weeks. When the seedlings are strong they should be thinned in the rows, leaving them from ten to twelve inches apart, as the leaves later on become very strong and require ample room. During the summer, until the leaves become strong, hoe freely between the plants. A very light sprinkling of coarse salt or nifcralte of soda may be given in June and in July, as that will greatly stimulate the growth. By November the leaves will have matured and decayed, leaving the dormant crowns just visible. All the plantation should then be dug up, a trench opened at one end, the soil forked forward, and each root got out carefully to its full depth without breaking it. Then when all are up, trim the roots quite close, each of these as cut off bemg laid all one way The main roots may be from six to eight mches long. Lav all out close together in some ou1>of-th&-way place, chopping down a furrow with a spade deep enough for the roots to stand unright in it, crowns upwards. Fill in about them with soil, just covenng the crowns. These can be got up as wanted at any tame to be put into a dark shed or cellar m soil to blanch the growth that will then come up from the crowns. If a few be so treated at a time good produce may be had over a long seaaon. Potatoes.— The best soil for Potatoes is a deep, well-drained loaiia, 173 a«RDENiNa hads e^rt. but good Potatoes can always be obtained, if the right sorts are ■elected, from land which has been trenched two feet deep and reasonably manured. Trenching land two feet deep means heavy labour, and should be done in winter, and it is then healthy exercise, and whilst doing it one has the satisfaction of knowing that future crops will benefit aa well as the Potatoes. The most convenient method of trenching is to divide the land into two equal parts. Take out a trench, two and a half feet wide and two feet deep, at one end, and wheel the soil to the point where the trenches will finish. If the subsoil is bad, then only the top spit will bo removed, the bottom spit to be well broken up and some manure incorporated therewith. This is called double digging or bastard trenching, and this is practised where it is not desirable to bring much bad soil to the top. If the bad subsoil is brought to the surface, a heavy ex- penditure in manure will be necessary before Potatoes or other plants will grow kindly in it. Merely digging the land one foot deep is a common method of prepajrfng the land for cropping, but it is not the best way, and the beginner should aim high. What is termed ridging is performed by setting cnt the land with line and spiade in two-and-a-half-feet spaces. If manure is required, it is wheeled on the land and levelled down previously, and then the ridging can be done in frosty weather, as the layer of manure will keep out a sharp frost. Anyone with a line and spade can soon mark out a plot of ground in two-and-a^half-feet spaces, using the spade to make a nick through the surface by the side of the line. The ridges are formed by opening a trench at one end of one of the two-and-a-half-feet spaces, passing the soil so removed to the next space, and then digging the soil and laying it in a sharp-pointed ridge, so as to expose as much surface to the action of the weather as possible. When the work is finished there will be a seriea of sharp ridges with correspooding hollows or furrows between. This exposure adds immensely to the fertility of the soil, and is specially valuable in the case of Potatoes: and in all labour there is, or should be, profit. To the person who has had any experience in the use of tools, the above should be plain enooigh. As regards the tools them- selves. Take the spade, for instance : one cannot teach a person_ by merely writing about it. There are a good many varieties of digging, but to dig properly, the spade should enter the ground very nearly perpendicularly. In no other way can the full depth be obtained. Thrust well home, and then lift and reverse the soil, so that the upper part is buried deeply and the lower brought to the surface. A good many diggers are careless about this, and as cultivators never become efficient. It is also necessary to keep a good clean trench, so that the annual weeds and the manure can be decently buried, as nothing shows careless, slovenly work so much as to see a weed peeping out of a newly dug piece of ground. We always use whatever manure is available ; and, as there is always a lot of garden rubbish accumulating, this is exposed to fire by what is termed smother-burning, and forms excellent manure, either with or without GAEDENING MADE EA8V. 173 some addition of artificials. If artificials alone are used, then super- phosphate of lime and muriate of potash will give the best results. Any quantity may be used up to three cwt. of potash and five or six cwt. of phosphate per acre. When charred garden rubbish is available for placing in the drills, less artificials may be used. Selecting the Seeds is really an important matter. When the crop-is being lifted, it is, or should be, an easy matter for the digger, when he comes to a more than usually prolific root, to place it on one side to select the sets from for planting next season. If these selected sets are placed in shallow boxes or trays not later than the laet week in December, the crown eyes will develop into stout green spurs by planting time. For early Potatoes one stout stem from the central crown eye will be better than more, and the crop will be more even in size and will ripen a week earlier than when more eyes are left. In the case of later Potatoes, two stems or eyes may be left. We have sometimes, when Potatoes have developed more stems than were considered necessary, gone over the plants just previoTisly to earthing up and reduced the number of stems by removing the weakest ones. This can easily be done without injuring those left. There are many ways of propagating new varieties, such as cutting the sets into single eyes, starting the plants in heat, and making the tops into cuttings, which root freely enough in a close, warm house or frame ; but from a cultural point of view these methods have no special value. Change of Seeds is very desirable. Most people, in garden culture, grow Potatoes on the same land year after year, and the labourer does the same thing on his allotment; and this is where the change of seed is so important. Either change the land or change the seed. Of course, by digging deeper fresh soil is brought up, and this is beneficial, but still a change of seed is desirable. It is best to plant in drills six inches deep, and then any manurial compost used can be placed in the drills. The drills for early sorts may be two feet apart, and the sets fifteen inches apart m the drills. The late sorts, which produce more top, should be thirty inches apart, and the sets eighteen inches between. If the land has been rWged up in winter, the sets may be placed in the furrows, the manure applied, and the ridges forked down over the Potatoes. We have had excellent crops in this way with a moderate outlay and labour, as the heaviest work is done in the winter, when other "'^EAiTH^G-Ctl' SPHAViNG.-If the !and has been properly worked before planting, the hoe will do all ^^^^/^J^'^'^^'P'^S Z rS to secure a good tilth for moulding-up. If the land is heavy the fork cl be ufed between the rows with advantage after the Potatoes are through the ground. If more manure is required, a Shf dresSg of ™o crime other quick-acting manure may be cittered Sngidf the rows just previous to earthing-up and the eaSh shoidd be drawn up to a sharp ridge, to throw off the water ITZljTl^toes are plaited, they are generally npe enough to lift 174 QARDENnrQ ICADE EAST. before the disease appears, but it will be well to spray late sorts with Bordeaux Mixture early in July, just before the disease comes, and a second dressing can be given three weeks or so after the first. The Best Varieties. — This is rather a difficult question, because quality depends a good deal upon soil and culture, and each grower in this respect has to work out the matter for himself. For early planting we have found nothing better than Duke of York, Sutton's Ninetyfold, Puritan, and Sir John Llewellyn; for main crops, Windsor Castle, The Factor, Daniel's Sensation, Sutton's Discovery, and Duchess of Cornwall. Taking all things into consideration, we do not think there is, under all conditions and circumstances, any variety of Potato absolutely free from disease, though some often escape altogether, and by judicious spraying the disease may be held in check. But the spraying must begin in time. Mushrooms in the Open Air. — Mushroom beds are usually made with stable manure, where the horses have hard food. If the horses are going through a course of medicine, the manure is not suitable. The manure should be reasonably fresh, but not have been over heated in a large heap. Shake the manure over, and remove the longest litter, which can be laid on one side for covering the beds later, when the heat declines. If stable manure is used alone, lay it on a ridge-shaped heap, sheltered from rain, and turn and intermix at intervals of two or three days till some of the rankness has been driven off. This preparatory period may last eight or ten days, according to the freshness or otherwise of the manure. Sometimes when there is a scarcity of suitable stable manure, tree leaves may be worked into the bottom layers of the bed. Sometimes we have used long damp litter to form a founda^ tion to the beds, and the result has been satisfactory. Another and an excellent way of making beds is to use fresh manure, and add about one-fifth part of rather heavy loam, and turn and inter- mix the materials together till the two are thoroughly blended, and then make up the beds. This saves time and labour, and the beds are generally satisfactory. The loam absorbs the ammoniacal gases, and steadies the temperature, so that nothing is lost. The Site fob Sumueb Beds should, if possible, be a shady one. Good paying beds have been made in an orchard beneath the fruit trees. They may also be made on the north side of a building or on the north side of a clump of trees, not in the drip of the trees, but where the hot sun in the middle of the day will be subdued. We have seen good Mushrooms produced on beds made in trenches and on elevated ridges. The ridge system is the one generally adopted in open-air culture. Ridges three feet wide at the base and two and a half feet high may run parallel to each other, with three feet intervals between to allow room to attend to the beds and gather the crop. The beds on ridges should be built up in 6-inch layers, each layer to be made firm before more material is added. The ridges may be cone-shaped, and rounded »t' the top, so that the whole surface may be spawned and be pro- GAEDtelflMG MADE BAS^. I'l'S ductive. When the bed or ridge is finished, insert the bulb of s thermometer therein, and when the temperature is steady at 85 or so, the bed is ready for spawning. Spawning the Beds.— It is important that the spawn is good. When spawn has remained about some time in sheds exposed to variations of temperature, it cannot always be relied upon. Good spawn will keep some time in the bricks as made, if kept dry, without much fluctuation of temperature. If spawn has to be purchased, it generally comes to hand in the shape of bricks about nine inches long, four of five inches wide, and two inches thick. When the bed is ready for spawning, these bricks are broken up mto pieces about two inches in diameter, and they are inserted in the manure from two inches to three inches deep and about eight inches apart. The bed is then made firm again, and left for two or three days till the spawn begins to " run," as the gardener terms it, which means that white threads or filaments are thrown out in all directions from the lumps of spawn. It is from these white threads that the Mushroom ultimately comes. If the spawn is good and the temperature of the bed steady, and these filaments or threads are numerous and spread rapidly, there will be plenty of Mushrooms in about six weeks, and for some time afterwards. As soon as the spawn begins to spread, the beds should be covered with about one and a half inches of loamy soil, and beat down firmly with the back of the spade, finishing off by giving a sprinkling of water and using the spade again over the damp soil to give it a smooth, even face, through which the white tops of the Mushrooms will continually emerge. Covering the Beds. — ^To keep the moisture and warmth in the bed, cover it with rough hay or litter. The temperature of the bed may be, in some measure, regulated by this. If the heat is maintained, very little covering will sufiice. If, on the other hand, the heat declines, increase the covering. The thermometer must be examined from time to time to notice the temperature, and if the temperature remains steady, the bed will work out right. The heat, of course, will decline a little, but the covering will keep it steady. No water will be required for a month. Out- side beds should be covered with straw mats or a waterproof cloth, to keep off cold rains, especially for the first month or so. As soon as the small white buttons appear on the surface, sprinkle with chilled water, and replace the covering, and in a day or two there will be large Mushrooms. If all goes on well, there will be gatherings of Mushrooms severaJ times a week, and when the cover- ings are removed will be the time to give water, if required. Mush- rooms will not grow without moisture, and the crop of many beds is often a scanty one through keeping it too dry. When a bed appears to have exhausted itself, very often a good soaking of warm water, in which one ooince of nitrate of soda per gallon has been dissolved, will liven it up, and bring it into bearing again. This means, of course, that the spawn had then some work left in it 176 GARDENING MADE EASY. and only required stimulating. Although Mushrooms cannot be grown withoiut spawn, it does not always follow that the spawn must be purchased. Spawn often generates spontaneously on heaps of manure, and Mushrooms are often gathered in large quantities round the edges of hotbeds which have been made up with stable manure. Where Mushrooms are grown largely, the new beds can be spawned from the old ones. We know a very good Mushroom grower who generally spawns his new beds by breaking up a piece of an old one in this way. During the late summer and autumn Mushrooms may be obtained by inserting pieces of spawn in moist places in the lawn or elsewhere. If the spawn is good, and other things suitable. Mushrooms may be ob- tained in this way. The usual way of inserting the spawn is to cut two niches in the turf, intersecting each other, and insert a piece of spawn where the cuts meet, pressing it down very firmly after- wards. A sprinkling of salt is useful on land which has been spawned, because it encourages damp, and is otherwise beneficial and stimulating. The best season for spawning land in this way is July and August. Radishes. — Several sowings may be made of these. The first Bowing may be made in February, the rest, following at fortnightly intervals, being small ones. When the seed is sown it should be very lightly covered with fine soil, then patted down, watered, and covered with long litter or netting to keep off birds. As growth follows, the covering may be removed. Eadish seed must not be sown in poor ground, as growth is too slow and the roots become hot and hard. Water should be given freely in dry weather when sowings are made regularly, and often a mere patch of a few yards in area is ample for single sowings. The earliest of all is the Red Globe Short-Top, but there are few better ones than the round and globe- shaped French Breakfast, with their white tips, and these may be followed by the red and white turnip-rooted. Rhubarb. — Ehubarb is easily grown, and roots can be purchased cheaply from the nursery or seedsman. These will be stout and fleshy and have one or two crowns. They should be planted during November or December, and some long litter manure laid about them as a protection from frost, because newly planted. Growth will commence in March, but no stems should be pulled from these plants that year. The following spring they will break up very strong, and many stems may be pulled then up to the middle of May. Then the plants will again make strong growth for the rest of the season, and should be left alone. Spread over the ground in winter between the plants a dressing of manure, which may be lightly forked in, and just over the crowns may be put some light litter, as that helps to promote quicker growth in the spring. It is a good plan to put out a few new or small roots each year, as after the third year the roots, then large, may be lifted as wanted, some two or three at a time, beginning in January, and be stood in any warm, dark place, with soil about them, and watered, when GARDENING MADE BAfi-S. l77 stems will soon be produced, and thus give very early Rhubarb; or, if preferred, some roots may be simply covered up outdoors with tubs, boxes, or big pots, and over these long manure or leaves, and thus induced to mate early growth for pulling. Once a good stock of roots ia obtained, a few should be lifted and divided every year for planting as advised! Roots should never remain more than four years, if they do well, without being divided. The best varieties are Hawke's Champagne, early ; Paragon and Victoria, the latter for later use. Shallots. — These are small, hardy bulbs, allied to the Onion, and very pleasant eating when pickled. They are grown yearly by the aid of small bulbs or ofiEsets, planted in beds or in rows, twelve inches apart, in February. The ground for these bulbs should be deeply dug and moderately manured. Planting may be done in the autumn, but early in February is the safest time to do so. If planted in a bed, let the rows be twelve inches apart, putting in the bulbs at six inches apart. These should not be of the largest or smallest, but of medium size and good form. It is but needful to press each bulb down firmly into the soil, so that its top is just co'vered. Growth soon begins. Several stems' usually grow, and each one forms a bulb at the base, so that when the tops die down and the bulbs are ripe, ready to lift in July, they are in the form ot clusters of some seven to nine in number. If, after planting, sharp frosts come, it may be wise aiter they have disappeared to make the soil about the roots somewhat firm. The best variety is the Old Shallot. , , , 1 , Spinach.— A useful, hardy, and wholesome green-leaved vegetable that IB easily raised from seed, and can be had over a long season. Seed ia both smooth and prickly, but all varieties have those char- acteristics. It is customary to recommend sowing round or smooth seed in the summer and prickly seed in the autumn for a winter stock, but that is a mere^eed fancy. Without doubt, the b^t varieties are: for summer, the Long Stander, which has large, ttick green leaves, and if well thinned out to nine i°«^/« ^f ^J "^ ^^^ rows, stands much longer before running off to ^^^Jl^f'^^^^^l other- that and the Victoria or Viroflay, very large leaved, are the best for winter. The drills should be fully twe ve inches apart, drfwn shIlTow and the seed be sown thinly. Spinach needs well- mr^ed and deeply dug soil. The earliest sowing may be made on ?wa^ border aS th! middle of March, and others for succession Ll^^hree or four week^not large ones, but to give a good succes- JZ^ T%e final so^ng should be made about the third week in Tgust,^ thrlmrin giving leaves in November, and orm he .p^Jy'all tj^t^gSerTd'Lfnorunti tt^tnts Lfbecom^ leaves only should be gatnerea, o"" ""'^ . , ^ ,^ ^ f ely ^ged •^ "S^efuT^jiiu^ and Out of Doors.-T„. To..t, is 178 GABDENING UADX EAST. quite a beginner'i vegetable or fruit — whichever one is pleased to call it — and is easily raised from seed. Make sowings in pots cf from five to six inchea across the tops, putting an inch depth of broken crocks or nibble in the bottom; upon that some of the coarser soil used, then filling up with a compost of loam, leaf-mould, and sharp »and. Press the soil into the pots fairly firm, and leave it the third of an inch below the tops of the rims. Sow the seeds evenly and singly over the soil, putting about fifteen seeds into a 5-inch pot and twenty-four into a 6-inch pot. Then place over them fine soil the thickness of a penny-piece, water gently, and stand in a frame or greenhouse. Until the seeds make growth it is well to place a sheet of thin paper over the pots to shade them if the sun- shine be strong. But whilst seed sown thus in April or May will germinate — that is, grow very well — without the aid of artificial warmth, if sowings be made earlier, some such warmth is needful, as growth will be slow and very weak. But it is seldom necessary to sow seeds before the middle of April, and then the sun usually warms a frame or greenhouse sufficiently. Even then, if the pots be stood in a box large enough to hold four of them, and a sheet of glass laid over the box, great help is given to the seeds. Where there is no glasshouse, plants may be raised in such a box thus covered with glass, if stood in a sunny place in a garden. Of course, some covering should be given to it at night. General Tbeatment. — When seedling plants are some two inches in height and show what are called rough or second leaves, it will be needful tO' lift theim caarefully with the aid of a pointed stick from the seed-pots, and put them singly into quite small or 3-inch pots, still using sharp sandy soil, and giving each pot some drainage. In thus patting the seedlings, place them down so as to bury one-half of their stems. When all are done, water gently, then stand them, whether in a frame or greenhouse or in a glass- covered box, as close to the glass as possible Water should be given sparingly, as the little plants are apt to damp off if over-watered. In three weeks it should be needful to shift the plants into 5-inch pots, still keeping the stems down a little into the fresh soil as roots break from them. After being in these pots for a fortnight, and under glass, the plants should be ready to plant out in a greenhouse or to be put into large pots or boxes for similar growth, or be planted outdoors into a warm position. Growing Tomatoes in Large Pots. — The common method of growing Tomatoes Junder glass by amateurs is in large pots. The method is one of the best generally, as the roots are kept under control. Pots for this purpose should be ten inches across the top. A few rough pieces of potsherd should be placed in the bottom, on that some coarse pieces of turfy loam, and then filled with a com- post of turfy loam, old hotbed or mushroom-bed, or well-decayed stable droppings, in the proportion of one-fourth to three parts of loam. A little wood ash may be added, also a pint of bone-meal to a bushel of the whole compost, and well mixed. As the pots are filled GARDENING MADE EAST. 179 the soil shoiild be pressed into them fiimly, then the plants from the 5-inch pots set into the centre, and keep the stem* still some- what down. Then the pots should be placed close together in a row where the plants are to be grown, the stems then being twelve inches apart. Generally it is best to raise the pots on a stout shelf or plank to within twenty inches of the roof, if to be bo trained, then tying the stems loosely but securely, as they grow, to wires fixed some ten inches from the roof. All side shoots which break out from the base of every leaf must be pinched off. As long as the plants are kept watered and have occasional soakings of liquid manure, after the plants are well set, and also warmth is kept up, the plants will go on fruiting until November. SETTiNa Tomato Flowees. — ^Amateurs frequently experience difficulty in setting the flowers, without which there is no fruit. A gentle tapping for two or three days is helpful. Sometimes a piece of white paper is held under the flowers, on which, by a vigorous shaking, some of the pollen falls. Then take it up on a camel's-hair brush, and tooich the points of the pistils, or the little points which project from the centre of the flowers. Tomatoes like plenty of light and a rather dry air. Do not syringe, and never allow puddles of water to stand about. Sufficient water must be given to keep the soil moist, but overdoses promote cracking of the fruits. Ghowing Tomatoes Out of Doors. — Tomatoes may be trans- planted to grow out of doora about the middle of May, and even then should have some protectiom from rough winds and night frosts until the end of the month. When planted against a warm, sunny wall or fence it is easy to furnish the desired protection by hanging sacks, mats, or some other material over them at night. When plants are put on a border, or in the open garden, the last few days of the month of May are soon enough. If planted against a wall or fence, the ordinary garden soil is sufficiently good as a, rule ; but, if poor, a little well-decayed manure may be first dug in, the soil being made fairly firm. Then the plants, turned out of their pots, may be planted twelve inches apart clo«e to the wall. If they be rather tall, it is well to secure them by putting a cloth sl^ed round each stem, which can be secured to the wall with a nail. But plants properly grown should not be tall or drawn, but be stout, sturdy, and well leaved. Of course, nailing becomes essential as the plants grow in height. In the case of those put into the open ground, the rows should be two and a half feet apart, and the plants fifteen inches apart in the rows. It is a very good plan to drive in a stout stake that will stand three and a half feet out of the ground, just where each plant is to be put Thus a proper support is ready when needed. It is not desirable to allow open- air Tomatoes to grow higher than some three and a half feet, as beyond that height fruits will not ripen. Keep the side shoots of outdoor Tomatoes pinched, a^ in the case of those under glass. In very hot, dry weather, water occasionally, and place over the soil a good mulch of long manure, as that serves to retain moisture, and checks drying. 180 fiARDENING MADE EA81?. Vaeieties or Tomatoes. — Tiiere is an endless number of varieties. There are smooth, round, and egg-shaped, both red and yellow. There are large- and quite small-fruited, as well as some of medium size. Some carry great clusters, some are nice to eat raw as table fruits, some to eat as salad, and some when cooked. The most popular ones are those which produce good-sized, round, handsome red fruits, and in great profusion. Good ones of thia type are : Perfection, Comet, Delegate, and Duke of York. Good egg- or plum-shaped fruits are : Al, Kegina, Challenger, and Peer- less. There are some of a reddish, terra-cotta colour, but these are not in favour. The best yellow varieties bearing good showy fruits are: Golden Queen, Blenheim Orange, and Sunbeam. The best small-fruited or dessert yellow is Golden Nugget, one of great excellence, the fruit the size of damsons, rich in colour, and excel- lent in flavour. The best reds are: Red Dessert and Cluster, both wonderfully productive, the fruit being about the size of pigeons' eggs. Turnips. — These root vegetables can be had for a long season. Sow Early Milan in April in drills twelve inches apart, and thinly. Large bulbs are not required, but the soil should be rich and kept well watered in dry weather, as quick growth is needful to secure crisp, fresh, sweet roots. Very moderate thinning of the plants whilst small suffices. In August, two sowings — one early, one in the third week — may be made of that excellent variety. Snowball, a very white, round form. The sowings are best made in drills twelve inches apart, the plants being thinned down to four inches apart. Sowing in drills facilitates thinning and hoeing, and also saves waste in sowing seed. A free use of the hoe between the plants whilst quite young keeps down weeds, and helps the plants to make good growth. From these August sowings of the Snow- ball, bulbs may be pulled of the best table quality up to the end of the year, and, if the weather be not severe then, much later. For late winter pulling it is wise to make, about the 20th of August, where ground is available, a sowing of Red Globe, as that is hardier than the Snowball, and takes longer to produce bulbs. These will need to be thinned out to six inches apart, as the leaf- age must have ample space. If some of the larger bulbs be pulled, trimmed, and stored in sand in a cool shed in January, they will be safe from hard frost, and give a supply for several weeks. Vegetable Marrows. — These include fruits long, narrow, and white, or green in colour; others of medium length, of short or almost round form, and of the custard type — those of quaint shape, like a little round pie turned out from a basin. All, however, have, when cooked, flesh of somewhat similar character — soft, succulent, watery, but yet very pleasant eating. Plants differ in habit of growth slightly, or so far that whilst the majority trail in growth, sending out long shoots, a few are of compact or bushy form, and eire known as Bush Marrows. These may be planted more closely than others: indeed, they may be but three feet GAEDENIRQ MADE EAH1. 181 apart. The trailing forms are, however, the best, being more varied and productive. They need ample room to run, and seem to be most at home when trained over sheds, wood piles, or any- thing that keeps them from the ground. Of course, the plants must be rooted in the soil, and the ground should, in all cases, be deeply worked, well manured, and be somewhat raised, as the plants like to be on small mounds. Still, they thrive well in hot, dry weather when liberally watered, provided they be not deluged too near the stems. Those plants which make long, strong growths need occasional pinching to cause other shoots, which are more productive, to form. Fruits of medium size are best for cooking. As Vegetable Marrows are very tender, it is un- wise to expose them outdoors until danger from late frosts is over. For that reason, early in April is soon enough to sow the seed in broad pots or pans, under glass. The seeds should be an inch apart at least, and be buried half an inch. If a little artificial heat can be given in a greenhouse or frame, growth is quicker. Still, at that time of the spring, sun warmth is usually strong enough to produce very good growth, if more slowly. When the seedling plants show one or two rough or new leaves, they should be cai-efully taken from the seed pans, and be put singly into small pots, or in pairs — one on each side — into 5-inch pots, using some light, good soil. After watering, the plants should be placed in ample light, where for a couple of weeks they will become strong. After that they may be placed in a cool frame to harden, and then be stood outdoors in a sheltered place to more fully harden before planting out. That may be done during the last week of May, except where the position is very warm and night protection can be given, when they may go out a week earlier. Sites for the plants should always be sheltered from strong east or north winds. Holes to receive pairs of plants should be opened four to five feet apart each way, two feet across, and one foot in depth. Into the bottom soil some manure should he forked, then other well-decayed manure added to the thrown-out soil as filled in, and thus a fair-sized mound is formed, into the centre of which the plants should be put. If it be needful to furnish some protection at night because of danger from frosts, hand-lights are best. Failing these, boxes or large pots, or even baskets, over which a mat or sack or piece of canvas is thrown, are good protectors. These may be put on late m the evening, and be removed next morning. But danger at that time of the year is short-lived. A few pairs of plants thus put out will pro- duce a great crop of fruits during the year. -p x? ^ Good varieties are: Long White, Long Green, Pen-y-Byd, Moore's Cream, Hibbard Prolific, short and roundish; and the quaint-shaped Custard Marrow, which is not, however, the most ^''"i^^^common danger to Vegetable Marrows arises from very early frosts in the autumn. Not infrequently it happens that a 182 GABDKirarG If ADZ KAST. sharp frost in September kills the plants, or othecrwise tihey might go on fruiting for some three or four weeks longer. It is good practice, with the approach of the 20th of September, to draw the plants more closely together, and to lay mats or other light covering over them at night, but removing it early in the morning. With so much care taken, plants will often give far more fruit late than is needed to pay for the small trouble involved. CHAPTER IX. The Beginner's Fruit Garden. Growing the Apple.— In selecting the site for an orchard or fruit garden, if there ia any choice in the matter, it is well to bear m mind that Apples will thrive and bear good crops, if the right sorts are selected, in any good loamy soil free from stagnant mois- ture. It would be unwise to plant tall standard trees in a wind- swept place where no shelter could be improvised or created. Thus, the top of a hill would not be a suitable site, and a low-lying valley would be even more objectionable, as the blosBoms would be destroyed by late spring frosts. In orchard-planting on gra«s, where the land cannot conveniently be all broken up, holes from five to six feet in diameter should be dug two and a half feet deep, the turf to be taken off, chopped up, and placed in the bottom. If the subsoil is bad, keep the roots out of it, if possible, by placing something of an impervious nature in the bottom. We have found nothing cheaper or better than six inches of cement concrete; and when the concrete has set hard, place the turf over it, and add soil enough to raise the tree to the proper level. Make it firm, and then prune damaged roots, and plant and stake or otherwise sectu'e the tree from violent movement by the wind. We do not think the tree need be braced up tightly so that no movement is possible. A little motion, if it does not disturb the roots, is natural and may be beneficial. Standard Apples in an orchard should not be less than twenty to twenty-four feet apart, and some sorts, such as Blenheim Orange and Peasgood's Nonsuch, may have even more space. Press the soil firmly round the roots. If the soil is fairly good, plant without manure, and feed on the surface. Never place manure round or near the roots. Many trees have been injured and some killed out^ right by this mistaken kindness. Give manure in the shape of mulch on the surface, and let the rains carry its e^ence down to the roots, and this will have a tendency to keep them from running down too deep into the bad subsoil. For orchard-planting, have the trees grafted on the Crab stock. No other stock is so suitable as the native stock whetw largfr-headed trees axe wanted. A piece of land 184 GARDENING MADX EAST. can be given up altogether to fruit. A mixture of standard and dwarf trees and bushes offers the best chance. In this case the ground should be well broken up and, if necessary, manured, but the manure should be well blended wilb the soil and not placed near the roots of the trees. The work of the roots is to hunt for the food required, and if they have to travel a little way for it the trees will get a better anchorage and a fuller development thereby. The Peopagation of the Apple is mostly carried out by grafting in spring. Where large trees are wanted, the Crab stock is the best; where small trees for the garden are required, the broad- leaved Paradise is the most suitable. But the best way for a small garden where the occupier is only a tenant, and no arrangement has been come to with the landlord about compensation, is to plant bush trees on the Paxadise stock, and to have them two or three years from the graft or bud, and to plant ten feet apart. For the first three or four years two rows of Strawberries may be planted between each two rows of Apple trees, or one row of Gooseberries, Currants, or Raspberries; but there must be no digging with the spade over the roots of any Apple tree that is grafted on the Paradise stock. At the beginning there must be a clear space of three feet from the stem round each tree where no spade must be used. Annual top-dressings of manure or manuriaJ. compost should be given, the soil kept free from weeds, and the surface stirred occa- sionally with hoe or fork to keep the soil in a healthy condition. Peuning the Apple. — When a young tree has been cut back in the nursery, only a little shortening will be required the first year. All trees planted in autumn should be cut back in February or March following; and trees planted late in March should, beyond the merest shortening, remain till the autumn. The object of cutting back is to furnish the tree with branches to lay a foundation, and when that is done the pruning will be confi.n6d to thinning in summer and a little shortening in winter, always bearing in mind that if we want a branch growing in any direction w© must prune to a bud pointing in that direction. Root Pruning. — If a tree runs much to wood, the roots go down deep to find the necessary moisture, and the result is soft, sappy shoots which never ripen or become fertile. The remedy, then, is to lift the roots, and this is the best course if the tree is of a manageable size, and carefully replant, laying the roots out in the proper direction, not more than nine inches from the surface. Root pruning is done by opening a trench three feet from the tree, work- ing up to the roots, and pruning the largest. This work requires some judgment, and only a portion — or, say, one-half — should be done at one time, the trench to be filled up and the soil rammed in firmly. Diseases. — Canker is the worst Apple disease, as it destroys its vitality, though it may be some time about it. The disease in its worst form has a fungoid origin, but it acts chiefly upon trees pre- disposed to it. A tree with its roots in a cold, damp soil may be QABDENINQ MADE BAB'S. 185 attacked by canker any time, and in that case the remedy is to lift the tree and place the roots under more healthy conditions, at the same time removing the cankered parts with a sharp knife or chisel, and dressing the wound with Stockholm tar. (See Insect Pests for other Apple foes.) Vaeieties. — We give a fe>v sorts which may be planted any- where, if the land is fairly suitable and reasonable care taken in the planting and management. A long list is not wanted, as there are too many Apples grown. A good succession may be had by planting, say, six sorts for dessert and twelve for cooking. Taking the cooking sorts first: there ought to be one or two Codlins. Lord Suffield is a good early cooking Apple, but the tree doee not grow well ; Lord Grosvenor is a better grower. Other good sorts are : Mank's Codlin, New Hawthornden, Waltham Abbey Seedling (a good, clean-growing tree), Bismarck, Annie Elizabeth, Alfriston, Stirling Castle, Lane's Prince Albert, Newton Wonder, Bramley's Seedling, and Cellini Pippin. For dessert, plant Cox's Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, AUington Pippin, Pearn's Pippin, Lord Burghley, and Sturmer Pippin. Do not gather the fruit too soon, and stora in a cool room. Wrap the best lata fruits in paper and store them in boxes in a cool place. Place a label with the nam© of the fruit and its probable season on each box, as th« Iws fruits ar« movad about until rsaily for use the better. The Pear. — The Poai -rrill live m&iij years and bear good fruit under favourable conditions ; it will also, when grafted on the Quince, begin bearing early. The Quince loves moisture, and if it is to thrive and give proper support to any tree grafted upon it, there must be moisture in the soil. This moisture can be supplied in the shape of a rich top-dreesing that will hold it and give it off as required. There are some Pears that do not thrive on the Quince stock. Marie Louise is one of these. It will be understood, there- fore, that Pears on the Quince and Apples on the Paradise must be nourished with rich top-dressing. The value of the Quince stock is in the early-bearing habit it imparts to trees worked upon it. A wall planted with Cordon trees on the Quince, trained obliquely, and well nourished, will have to be covered and be in full bearing before trees cm the Pear stock have settled down to work. Cordons may be trained in the same way on a wire fence six feet high. We have seen them do well trained vertically, and bearing very freely. Ihe Pear stock is a good one when we want a big tree m seven or eight years or longer, but for prompt effect use the Quince, and give it all the nourishment it needs. - ™ . . „ . t Pears as Pyramids and Bushes.— This is an excellent way ot growing Peajrs on the Quince, or on good keen land, if one can wait, on the Pear stock. The Pear as an open pyramid, not too hard pruned, makes a very handsome tree, and bears abundantly in good seasons! On the Pear they should, looking to the future, be ten or twelve feet apart, with other low crops between for a few years If on the Quince, the trees may be nine feet apart, and there should 186 GABDENING MADE EAST. be no digging over the roots. The trees must have nourighment on the surface. Pears as Standards. — Some Pears will grow into very large trees, auoh as the Hazel or Hessle, Old Early Lammas, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Jargonelle, Marie Louise d'Uccle, Fertility, Souvenir du Congres, Williams' Bon Chretien, Conference, Pitmaston Duchess, Fondante d'Automne, and Doyenne du Cornice (one of the best Pears grown). It is best to allow each tree to have twenty feet space, with, for the first ten or fifteen years, other crops between. Unless the land is very poor, plant without manure and feed on the surface with rich mulchings. Li pruning pyramid and bush trees, the first consideration should be given to the formation of the trees, and the second to thin the young wood in summer so that every bud should have its proper share of sun. The bush trees only require thinning, but this thinning should be done in such a manner as to secure a well-balanced, ornamental tree. A badly shaped tree may bear good fruits, but it will also compare unfavourably with the tree which has proper training in its youth. The Plum. — The Plum is more accommodating in the matter of soil than most fruits. It grows and fruits best on a limestone base, provided there is a good layer of soil above it; but lime must be present in the soil, and if not naturally, then it must be added. The best course is to mix a bushel or two of old plaster or mortar in the border just previous tO' planting. The Plum is not so long- lived as the Pear or Apple, but it comes more quickly into bearing. When cut back after planting — to lay the foundation — the knife afterwards should be used only in the formation of Ihe tree and for ' thinning crowded branches. As much as possible of this work should be done in summer. Standard or half-standard are most suitable for the orchard or wherever a plantation of Plums can be planted. If a small orchard is to be planted, plant from fifteen to eighteen feet apart. When Plums are grown on walls, they will grow in any aspect. The luscious Coe's Golden, Drop should, if possible, have a good aspect tO' ripen and fla.vour the fruits. The Green Gage also does not as a, rule doi so well, especially in the matter of flavour, in a bad aspect, though we have had it good on east and west walls. The old Green Gage is rather peculiar in its wants as regards soil. In some districts it bears freely in any form, in others failure after failure occurs. When this happens, give a good dressing of old plaster or mortar to the soil. The bush or pyramid is a good deal planted, and if the trees do not begin bearing in three years, lift and replant, spreading the roots out near the surface. The pruning, which should mainly consist of thinning and slightly shortening the young wood, may all be done in summer. The pruning of the Plum should be on the same lines as that of the Apricot, which means that the young wood of trees on a wall should be shortened back to four leaves early in July, always excepting any shoot which can be reserved for laying in to fill between the larger branches. When the leaves fall, look over the trees again to remove GARDENING MADE EASY. 187 dead wood, if any, and shorten spurs, so as to keep the trees under the warm influence of the walls. Good sorts are: Belgian Purple, Early Prolific, Transparent Gage, Golden Gage, The Czar, Monarch, Victoria, Coe's Golden Drop, Jeffersons, Pond's Seedling, Kirks, and Damsons. The Peach and Nectarine.— The culture for both Peaches and Nectarines is the same, therefore in the notes which follow the two fruits are grouped together. The best soil for the Peach is rather a heavy loam, and if the subsoil is clay, keep the roots out of it by placing a layer of concrete in the bottom of the hole, extending far enough to permit of the extremities of the roots being lifted if they go downwards. The best course is to buy what is called cut-back trees from the nursery, and allow each tree from sixteen to eighteen feet of space on the south or south-east wall. The wall shoiild not be less than ten feet high, although in suburban gardens they are often planted on lower walls, and sometimes with a fair amount of success when the trees are in good ground. The chief points to be kept constantly in mind are to thin the young shoots sufficiently so that every leaf may have room for development, and to destroy all insects the moment they appear. If these matters are promptly attended to. Peach culture will be easy and successful. Assuming the position has been prepared and the trees bought, prune the roots wherever damaged and place the stem or trunk of the tree four inches from, the wall on the site, which has been made firm, so that the tree will not settle too much. Spread out the roots eight or nine inches from the surface, cover with a little good loam, make firm, and spread a small littering of manure over the surface to shelter the roots whilst they are working. If the trees are planted in th© autumn, the roots will begin work almost directly, and in the course of a month or so the branches may be pruned and either tied or nailed to the wall. Protecting the Flowers. — The Peach usually begins to open its blossoms about the middle of March, and some protection should be given. We have found fishing-net, tightly strained over poles fixed under the coping, and projecting at the foot about three feet to give room to walk or work underneath, very satisfactory. If heavier coverings are used, they should be opened out or removed every fine day to give air and permit the sun to shine upon them; but the fishing-net may remain over the trees so long as protection is "^^Pruning the Peach.— This should begin in April by disbudding surplus shoots, removing only a few at a time and spreading the work over several weeks. In beginning the disbudding, it is neces- sary to bear in mind that one good shoot must be left as near the base of each of the present bearing shoots as possible. The leader also must be left, though in crowded trees, or to prevent overcrowd- iw Se leader may be pinched when eight or mne inches of growth h£ been made. The point to beax in mind is: there must be a sSot cLyfng good foliage beyond the fruits, or the latter will 188 GABDBNINO UADX EABI. not swell. If the bearing branches are long, one or more shooto may be left between the shoot near the base and the leader, and at any rate the growth should not be removed too hastily, especially in cold diatricte. For this reason Bometime» the young shoots, or ftome oif them, are pinched back and allo>wed to remain for a time, to be removed later. The young shoots left for the next season's crop should be nailed in clo«e to the wall before the winds damage them. To carry the pruning further and finish the subject : 'after the fruits are gathered, all the branches which can be spared should be cut out to facilitate the ripening of the young wood. Early in January unnail the branches, and as soon as the buds move so that the wood- buds can be identified, finish the pruning by cutting out any branches not required, so that when those left are trained to the wall, they may be placed at equal distance* of four or five inches apart. If the trees are properly managed, the wall should be furnished from base to summit with bearing wood. Insects and Diseases. — The most troublesome and most difficult to deal with are the black aphides, which, if permitted, will curl up the leaves and make their destruction very difficult. Almost before the blossoms have fallen, the close observer may find a fly or two about the trees, and the attack should begin. The best and cheapest remedy is Fowler's tobacco powder, applied through an elastic dis- tributor. Two or three times a week the gardener should look round his trees with the powder distributor in his hand. A few minutes each day will suffice for a long wall, and a couple of shillings will buy all the powder required. As the days lengthen and the season advances, the garden engine or the hose will keep down red spider, and these are the chief enemies the Peach is troubled with. The thinning of the fruits must receive attention. Very many amateurs and beginners injxire their trees by cropping too heavily. The prin- cipal disease which the Peach is subject to is blister of the foliage, which is mainly due to cold winds in an eixpoeed garden, and may be prevented by affording shelter fixed at right angles with the wall and projecting far enough from the wall to stop the cold currents which rush alongside. Sorts. — Hale's Early, Waterloo, Dymond, Crimson Galande, Noblesse, Goshawk, Golden Eagle. Early River, Lord Napier, Pine Apple, Elruge, and Chaucer are the best Nectarines. The Apricot. — Apricots must be planted within four inches of a wall in a good aspect, and trained fan-shaped on the wall. The best time to plant is in November. Prune back from one-half to two-thirds to obtain sufficient branches to cover the wall, and do not permit the branches to grow upwards until the bottom of the wall in in a fair way of being covered. Train the main branches nine inches apart. Small bearing wood can be trained in between, but keep the centre of the tree open till the wall is covered. Good loamy soil, if the drainage is correct, wUl require nothing beyond some old plaster or mortar blended with it. All manures beyond light top-dressings are hurtful. GABDENINQ UADS EASY. 189 The disease known as branch-dying may be traced to planting in soil of too rich a character and using the knife too freely after- wards. All other fruits use up a good deal of lime. Lime in the process of decay is better than freah lime. The roots work best in a firm soil. There should be no digging with the spade within four feet of the trunk, but the fork and the hoe may be used to keep the surface open to admit warmth and moisture. The walls of a dwelling or building of any kind are warmer and drier than an open, exposed wall. This may explain why Apricot trees often do better on a cottage wall than on the garden wall. After the trees begin to bear, top-dressing and watering in a dry summer may be necessary, when the trees axe heavily cropped. In cold, damp soils, concrete the bottom of the hole four feet square, two feet from the surface, before planting the tree. Care- fully separate and lay out the roots within eight or nine inches of the surface, and make firm. Pbuning. — The less the knife is used the better, but the trees, of course, must be reasonably pruned. The Apricot will bear on spurs which spring from the main branches, and also from short, matured spurs which are thrown out by young wood of the previous year's growth. The crop is usually taien from both sources, hence the importance of training in a young branch between the main branches, where there is room, without overcrowding. Towards the end of June, all young shoots that are not required for train- ing-in should be shortened back to four leaves. Pbotecting the Blossoms. — We have always found a double thickness of fishing-nets sufficient. In sheltered gardens, a single net lightly strained over poles will suffice. Thinning the Fruits. — In a good season Apricots set very thickly, and then thinning should begin early, and be finished as soon as the stoning is over. Moorpark is the most popular sort; Hemskirk is a little hardier. The Gooseberry. — Everybody — even those who have no room for larger fruit trees — can grow Gooseberries. There are various ways of growing and training Gooseberries. The usual form is the low, open-centred bush. Gooseberries should be treated generously as to manures. They may be planted from four to six feet apart. The bushes are very often pruned too much. Keep the centre open by cutting out all shoots which cross over from side to side. Cut away all branches hanging near the ground, and thin the other shoots, but leave in plenty of young wood, and only remove soft, unripe tips from leaders. , , • -, The Black Currant.— This may be pruned on somewhat similar lines to the Gooseberry. Occasionally an old bush may be cut back hard when the bushes are failing to fruit and the fruits are too small to induce a lot of young growth to break away. This hard pruning should be accompanied by liberal manuring. Red and White Currants.— These are treated on different hnes to the Black Currants. They bear well ©n short spurs, and so it 190 GABDENING MADE EASY. ia asaaJ when pruning in autumn to out back all shoots to short spurs an inch or so long, and then spurs, if all goes well, will be heavily hung with fruit next season. Red and White Currants as they grow more erect do not require so much space aa Gooseberries. Four feet apart will generally be enough, and they may be planted in almost any position. They are often used to fill vacant spaces on the north wall or wooden fences, or be trained, when young, in any desired form, but the bush form is adopted in most gardens. Summer pruning of both Gooseberries and Currants in a moderate way is always useful. A part may be done by thinning the young wood in summer, and the remainder when the leaves fall. The best Gooseberries are: Industry, Whitesmith, London, Crown Bob, and Red Warrington. Good for preserving: Lancsr shire Lad, Antagonist, and Ringer. Of Black Currants, choose Victoria, Boscoop Giant, and Fay's Prolific. Red Currants : Cherry, Raby Castle, and Red Dutch. White Currants: White Dutch and Transparent White. For diseases, see Insect Pests. The Raspberry. — The finest Raspberry is undoubtedly the Superlative. Other good sorts are: Norwich Wonder, Carter's Prolific, and Baumforth's Seedling. Weakly, exhausted canes should not be used for planting. They should be planted in groups — ^four canes in a group — and trained to stout stakes four feet or so out of the ground, to which height the canes are pruned every winter, or at least before the buds start in spring. The best mode of training is to strain a couple of wires to stout stakes placed ten feet apart, one wire to be near the top of the stake and the other half-way down. To these wires the canes are tied. The rows should not be less than five feet apart, and may be planted from eighteen inches to two feet apart in the rows. Raspberries do best in rather moist soil, which should be well broken up and manured. Two or three inches of manure should be placed as a mulch by the side of the rows every spring to keep the moisture in the land and nourish the (urface roots. Plant in autumn, or at least before Christmas if possible. Autumn-bearing Raspberries should be cut down to the ground every season after fruiting, aa they bear fruit on the young wood of the current year. The White or Yellow Antwerp may be grown for dessert. The Loganberry is a very useful fruit, and is being more cultivated. It should have more room than the Raspberry. If planted in rows, have the rows wider apart, and the wires six feet high. Otherwise the same treatment will do. It may also be trained against a fence. The Strawberry. — Select a piece of ground in an open position, and dig it well in winter, working in manure very liberally. In March plant it with early Potatoes that can be cleared off not later than the first or second week in August. Give a top-dressing of short manure and soot, and fork it in. Tread the surface when dry, and plant good srtrong, healthy runners which have been layered in small pots or ou mounds of good soU placed for th« purpose. The GAHDENING MADE EASY- 191 192 OABDENING MADE EASY. latter plan gives le«3 trouble, and if the plants are lifted carefully with balla and planted with a trowel, the result will be equal to the pot system. The rowa may be two feet apart and the plants one foot from each other in the rows. After the first crop has been gathered, every alternate plant may be taken out. Strawberriei root a good deal on the surface, but if the ground in deep and well broken up and manured, they will also send roots down deep in the ground, and these deep roots are very valuable in a dry season. Strawbemea should have a firm soil, which should not be over- manured at the time of planting, as this often causes gross growth which fails to ripen, and the plants the next season are blind. Male and female flowers are produced on separate blossoms, and when either one or the other predominates no blossoms, or but very few, will set, and the plants are what is termed blind, and these blind plants generally produce strong runners, and their luxuriance is sometimes a temptation to the beginner to take them for planting. This, of course, leads to failure, as only the best fertile plants should be propagated from. After planting firmly, give a good soaking of water, and draw a little dry earth up round the plants with a rake to keep the moisture in the soil. Later on, a top-dretsing of short manure may bo given. A layer of long litter should be placed between the rows just aa the plants are showing bloom. This wiU conserve the moisture in the soil and keep the fruits clean. Before putting on the litter it is wise to gir* a dusting of lime and soot in mixture to get rid of slugs or snails. The Duration op Strawbeery Beds will in some measure de- pend on the character of the soil, but as a general rule three years is the limit permitted. When the crop' has been gathered, remove all runners, and give a top-dressing of manure. This should be done in the early autumn. Never propagate from either blind or exhausted plants. The best Strawberries are: Royal Sovereign, The Laxton, Presi- dent, Sir Joseph Paxton, Latest of All, British Queen (plant in d«ep loam), Viscomtesse de Thury (for preserving). Melons in Frames. — Well flavoured Melons cannot be grown without heat, though, as the season advances, the sun will do some of the work. Make up the hotbed with a mixture of stable manure and tree leaves if possible. Any garden refuse that will ferment and give out heat may be mixed therewith to increase the bulk. It is important for the materials to be thoroughly blended and turned two or three times after the heat rises, to drive off some of the rankness. If this is not done the bed will be too hot at first and then rapidly cool, and the Melons fjiil. As soon as the fermenting materials are sweetened by turning and intermixing, make up the bed eighteen inches to two feet wider and longer than the frame, building it up with straight sides, and make firm by treading or beating with the fork as the work proceeds. Place some sods of turf where the hiUs are intended to be placed, grass side downwards, and cover the bed entirely with good soil, and in the centre of each GARDENING MADE EAST. 193 n M H 194 GARDENING MADE EASY. light make a firm bed of good loam, aa Melotas do best in a firm bed, and the fruits set better. As soon as the heat is steady, set out the plants — one in the centre of each light — and press the soil down firmly. If the condensed moisture which hangs about the frame is clear, it will be safe to put out the plants. If it is thick and muddy, wait a day or two. If the plants are raised at home, the seeds should be sown in heat either singly in small pots or in a pan in the propagating case, and potted singly as soon as they are up and well rooted. We have known the seeds planted in the bed and covered with bell-glasses, and they did well, and this plan may be safely adopted where there is no warm house or pit to raise them in. As soon as the plants are well established and have made .two rough leaves, pinch out the terminal bud, and the shoots wnich result from the pinching should be pegged out towards the corners of the lights. But previous to doing this add more loam and press it down firmly. If the loam is of good quality and rather heavy no manure should be mixed with it, as when the plants want nourishment, liquid manure can be given. Keep the night temperar ture from 65° to 70°. If the bed is well built and warm coverings used at night, there will be no difficulty in doing this. Melons should not require shading, aa it only weaJiens the foliage. Give a little air at the back of the frame early in the ujorhing, and increase this as the sun gains power during the day. Close after sprinkling with water which has stood in the sun all day by 3.30 or 4 o'clock when the days lengthen. As the main shoots extend to the comers of the light, laterals will spring out from each side, and on these the fruits will appear with female blossom at the end. The male flowers appear separately, and when the flower opens at the end of the fruit, pollen must be taken from the male flowers to fertilise the female blossoms. This is a simple operation, and should be done about the middle of the forenoon, when both flowers are in a suitr able condition. The gardener takes ofi the male flower, removes the corolla with his thumb-nail, and inserts the centre bearing the pollen grains within the flower at the end of the fruit. As far as possible set fruits enough for a crop within a day or two of each other. If one fruit takes the lead, the others will not swell. From four to six fruits are generally considered sufficient for a crop from each plant. As the fruits swell, lift them up from the ground on tiles or slates, with the nose end to the north. Discontinue the manure- water when the fruits are nearly full grown, and as they begin to change colour give no more water at all, or the flavour may be injured. Keep the growth thin, but do not remove any of the main leaves, as they are the most important factors in promoting growth. Pinch all laterals as soon as they show fruit. If the ventilation is right, the foliage will be strong and leathery, and there will not be much trouble with red spider, which is the only insect to be dreaded. Canker, a fungoid disease, is sometimes induced by too much water and a low temperature with deficient ventilation. It attacks the QAEDKNING MADE EASY. 196 main stem, and if not stxjpped will kill the plant. The best remedy is qiiicklime aaid dry, dusty charcoal. Place a slate under the diseased part and completely cover it with the lime and charcoal miKtnre, changing it occasionally when it has lost its power. Good varieties for either frame or house are: Eoyal Sovereign, Blenheim Orange, Read's Scarlet, and the Countess. Vines in the Greenhouse. — There are thousands of small greenhouses in the suburbs of towns and scattered about the country where Vines are, or may be planted, and fairly good grapes grown. In some places, where the drainage is suitable and the soil fairly good, not much expense need be incurred in border making. If the soil is bad and the drainage imperfect, make_ the border a foot or more above the present ground level. This may be done by carting in two or three loads of good loam. Get a bag or two of bone-meal and some old plaster or mortar, and a couple of bushels of wood ashes or crushed charcoal, and blend the whole together. Any further stimulants required (and Vines will use up a good deal of nourishment) may be given in the shape of liquid manure and rich top-dressing. The top-dressings will keep the roots near the surface, where they can easily be fed. It will be better to have the Vines planted in a narrow border inside, and then, if the ground wall of the house is built on arches, the roots will soon find their way out into the border outside. The outside border need not be all made at first. If it is three feet wide, this will be enough for a small house, and it can be extended when necessary. If the border is made above the natural level, there will not be much trouble with drainage. Planting. — Plant the Vines in March, and, if turned out of pots, open out the roots and spread them out within six inches of the surface, and make reasonably firm. It is possible when we can wait to furnish the house by planting cuttings about a foot or so long, leaving one eye or bud exposed level with the surface, but this is not usual, and most people buy Vines and plant them out of pots. Although March has been mentioned as the best month to plant, they may be planted any time during summer out of pots. If the sap is moving, let the buds break, and rub them off, except the bottom one. When the leaves unfold, the canes can be cut down to the point where the shoot has started. This shoot will be trained up, and encouraged to make all the growth it will, and that will constitute the first year's work. If all things go well, there should be a short, jointed cane as thick as one's finger. When the leaves fall, cut down to within three eyes or buds of the bottom wire. When these eyes break, the upper one should be 'trained up to form the main rod; the two lower ones, if reasonably strong, may be permitted to carry one bunch each'. The growth the second year should be strong. The main rod which ascends the house, when within a foot or so of the end of the rafter, should be stopped, and the soft laterals— -i.e., the shoots which spring out from the axils of the leaves — should be 196 GABDENING MADK EAST. pinched to one leaf. As it is better to let the main leaves do the elaborating work, the side shoots or laterals, if strong, will produce a good bunch of grapes each, and should be tied to the wire at nearly right angles to thj main stems. VINB IROM POT, SHOWING METHOD 01 PLANMNG. The third year there ought to be a good crop of luscious grapet. It will be better not to leave the main rod too long the third year — eight feet in length will produce a lot of grapes. In order to miake the eyes break regularly, they should be bent back, to check the flow of sap to the extremities, so that all the eyes may break into growth, and if the wood has been well ripened, every shoot will show one or more bunches of fruiti' When a foot or so long, these should be gradually drawn to the wires, and tied at some- thing like equal distances apart. When two leaves can be seen beyond the bunch, pinch out the terminal bud. The usual dis- tance allowed for Vines is from three to fotir feet. If four feet is allowed, sometimes a second rod or cane is taken up from each Vine in the centre of the light, but usually when plants are grown beneath the Vines it is better to be contented with the Vines four feet apart, and allow a little more extension to the laterals. The Sub-Laterals should be dealt with promptly, if permitted to extend, and then removed. A check may be given that will be injurious. The best way of managing sub-laterals which spring from the asils of the leaves is to rub off all below the bunches and stop all above to one leaf, and permit no further progress. This is simple, and easily understood. Let nothing interfere with the work of the main leaves. THnjMiKG THE Bbrbiei. — This should bo dona when ihe berriei QABDBNIKQ UADE EAST. 197 are about the tize of Sweat Pea Beede, as by that time the beet berriee will have obtained a lead, and these should (in the case of Black Hamburghs, which are the best grapes for the amateur to grow) have at least half the bemea cut out. Sometimes two-thirds are taken out; but in dealing with Vines of which we know nothing it is better to go over a second time and relieve the light places by cutting out a berry here and there than have loose, flabby bunches. The scissors should be carefully handled so aa not to cut, ever so slightly, any berries left in. Neither should the berries be touched or rubbed with a hot hand whilst the work is in progress. Watehing. — If the drainage is right it is not easy to ovex-water Vines during summer, especially inside borders. If the outside is covered with manure the water required there will be lesa. In some seasons scarcely any will be required. When the Vines ars bearing heavy crops they ^ould have some stimulant in the water, especi- ally after the grapes are thinnad, as that is the best time to feed. Almost any good artiflcial manure may be used, and most of the manure merchants supply Vine maaures, and these may either be given in the water or sprinkled over the borders and watered in. Several applications of this kind may be made. Ventilation. — This is very important. It is a good ride during summer to give a little air along the ridge as soon as the sun strikes the glass roof in the morning, and if ther» are plants in pots in the house it will be safer, after May. to leave a little crack of air on all night, and extend this early in the morning. Where there are plants in the house, they will probably cause moisture enough in the atmosphere without much damping of floors or paths. The thing to avoid is the creating of a stuffy atmosphere. Where possible close the house for a short time in the afternoon to shut in a little sun- shine, if it is only for a couple of hours, as this warmth extends the bunches and benefits the foliage; and when the moisture has been dispersed, toward the evening, a small crack of air may be given to set up a gentle circulation. The vinery greenhouse is usually a compromise, but with care and a free use of common sense there need be no sacrifice of either plants or grapes. Of course, after May sets in, a good many of the plants may go outside, and the Vines may thus have a better chance. Pkuning. — We have already referred to the young growth and its summer management. The winter pruning sho'uld be done aa soon as the leaves fall, Und spur pruning is the method usually adopted. This means cutting back to a good plump bud near the base of the shoot. Black Hamburgh, Foster's Seedling, and Ali- cante show plenty of bunches if pruned back almost to the large bud. It is well, after a few years' bearing, to lead a young shoot occasion- ally from the base and take out an old one. INDEX. A 88 Abutilone - . - - Artofjjag • — — — 00 Acetylene Gas, Use of Refuse of 131 Adonis, The - - - - 23 African Lily, The - - 88 Agapanthus umbelatus - 88 Agathea coelestis - 89 Aquilegias - - 25 Alkanet, The 24 Alstrcemerias - - 24 Alyssum, Sweet - 52 Amaryllis, The - - 89 American BUght 110, 122 Ampelopsis - ;■ 69 Anemone coronaria - 24 ,, japonica 24 Anemones - - 24 Annual, A Blue - 54 ,, Climbers, A few good - 13 „ Flowers, Beautiful - 13, 51-54 Ants Ill Aphides, How to destroy - 122 Apples for Small Gardens 15, 183, 184, 185 Apricot, The - - - - 188, 189 Aralia Sieboldi - - - - 89 Araucaria excelsa - - - 90 Asparagus ... - 157, 158 „ Beetle - - - 112 ,, in Greenhouse - - 90 Aristoloohia Sipho - - 59 Armeria ----- 25 Artichokes - - - 157 Aspidistra lurida - 90 Aster, China - 52 Asters _ - 25 Aubrietiaa - . - - 25 ^Auriculas - ■ 25 Azaleas - - - - 90 Balsam, The - - 101 Bartonia aurea - 54 Basic Slag as a Manure Dressing - - - - 130 Baskets, Ferns for - 14 Beans, Broad and Runner and French - - - 158, 159 Bee Balm 34 Beetles, Ground - Beetroot - - - Begonias - - - Bellflowens Bermuda Buttercup PAGE 114 159 91 26 91 Bridwe^,"The"Double - 59 Birds, Troublesome - - ' ^g^ Bougainvillea glabra - 9^ Bouvardias -■'.",' Border Flowers, Hardy, A tew good - 1* Border, The ,.° Box edge, Planting a - - 142 Box Tree - - - ' " i^o Broccoli |°2 Brussels Sprouts - - - ij^a Bulbous Flowers, A few good 14, 145 ,, after flowering 152, lod „ Greenhouse - 14 erowins in Moss FibrI 150, 151, 152 Cabbage Butterflies - - 119 ^^t^^'I^lthe-"C-lu\'^^''°'l| Calceolarias g^ Calystegia, The - - - - »« Camellias - - - " oq =5 Candytufts, The - 33, 54 Cannas - - ■ .,«" 97 pd ql Carnations - - 26,27,28,94 „ Malmaison - ' ,^? Carrots - - ■, .„" " }^l Caterpillars, How to kill - 1^^ CauUflowers - - - 161, 162, Ibd ^^'^^ny- : '- - -itii3 Celosia,-The - " °° Centaurea montana - - ^° Cerastium - - - "inn Cherry Pie -. - - " 1"" „ The Winter - 37, 105 China Aster - - - - ■ °j Chinese Primrose, The - - iu* Chrysanthemums, The Annual 5» The 2^0, 21, '22, 23 Cimicifuga racemosa - " " 29 Clarkia o** INDEX. 199 Clematises .... 59, 60 Climbers, Annual, A few „, good 13, 58, 59 Climbing Plants for Greenhouses 14 Cockscomb 95 Codling Moth, The . - - 113 Colchicums 145 Coleus, The . . 95 Collinsia bicolor . - 53 Columbines 25 Conifers 142, 143 Conservatory attached to dwelling-house . 87 Coreopsis tinctoria . . 53 Cornflowers, The - - 52 Corydalis nobilis . 30 Cornflower, Mountain 28 Cowslips, American . 30 Crassula ooccinea . - 97 Creepers, The Virginian 59 Cress and Mustard . . 167 Crocus, The . - 145 Cuckoo Spit 115 Cucumbers in Frames - 164, 165 Currants, Black - . . 15, 189 Currants, Red and White 15, 189, 190 Currant Saw.Fly - - - 115 Cyclamen, The Persian 97 Cytisus racemosa ... 97 Daffodil, The Winter . Daffodils . . Daisies, Michaelmas . ,, Red and White Daphne odora Dart Moth . Delphiniums, The Digging - Diplacus, The Dodecatheons Doronicum, The . Dutchman's Pipe, The Earwig, The Eocremocarpus Scaber Eel-worms Erigeron, The Eryngiums Everlastings, The Bremurus, The - Ferns for Baskets ,, for Greenhouse „ Some Hardy Flame Flowers, The - - 149 145, 146 - 25 . 34 97 116 - 30 9 97 30 30 59 116 61 115 31 31 53 30 14 14 14 33 PAGE Flowers, Beautiful Annual 13, 51 „ Bulbous, A few good 14 „ Biennial, A few good 13 ,, Best way to keep them fresh . 127, 128 ,, Hardy Border, A few good ... ,, Greenhouse ... „ Half-Hardy Annual, A few good . ,, Hardy Perennial ,, Pressed, To preserve the colour of „ Window and Room Forget-me-nots, The - Forking . . Francoa ramosa - Frames, The 14 14 13 23 126 16,17 35 Freesia, The Fritillarias Froghopper 12,86 98 146 115 Frosted Plants, Treatment of 128 Fruit Garden, Restoring Neglected 11 „ The Beginner^ 13-15, 183 Fuchsia, The - - . . 98 Fumitory, The Noble . - 30 Gaillardias, The - - - . 31 Galega officinalis . . 31 Galtonia oandioans - 146 Gardening, First Steps in . 7 in Towns 17, 18, 19, 20 45 154 10 10,11 11 • 126 129 Wall Garden, Kitchen - „ Digging in The Neglected ,, Spring in the Tools . . „ A Wind-swept ,, The Beginner's Fruit 183 Gardens, Laying out Little Rock 46, 47, 48, 49 Plants for - - 49, 50, 51 Shrubs for Town 14, 141 Gentians, The - - .31 Geraniums, The Hardy - - 32 Gilia tricolor - . - .63 Globe Flowers, The 40 Glory of the Snow - 145 Gooseberry . - - 189 Saw.fly - 115 Gooseberries for Small Gardens 15 Goat Rue ..... 31 Grape Hyacinths - - - - 147 Grasses, Hardy - 58 Greenfly ... - - 112 Greenhouse, The 84, 85 200 □TDBZ. Gi'eenhouse, Attached to dwelling-house 87 ,, Climbing Plants for 14 „ Ferns for - - 14 „ Flowers for - - 14 „ Hydrangeas for the 100 Greenhouses, Treatment of Neglected - - - - 12 Greenhouse, Vines in the 195, 196, 197 Gypsophila elegans - - - 57 ,, paniculata - - 32 Gardens. Dwarf Roses for Town 81 Golden Rods, The - 39 H Heather, Sowing - Heaths, The - - - Hedges, Neglected Yew Heleniums, The - Heliotrope, The ,, Winter Heuchera sanguinea Hippe?/Btrum, The Hoeing Hollies, The Sea Hollyhock, The - Honeysuckles, The Hotbed, Making a Hyacinths 126 97 - 142 32 100 - 40 - 32 89 9 81 S2 61 - 87 - 146 Hydrangeas for the Greenhouse 100 I Imantophyllum, The - - - 95 Insect Enemies and Friends 109-121 Insecticides - - . 121, 122 Irises ------- 146 Ivy, The - - - - - 61 Jacob's Ladder Jasmines, The K Kitchen Garden, Site for Kniphofias, The - 38 61 154 33 Ladybird, The - - 121 Lantana, The - 101 Larkspurs, The - - - 30, 53 Lavatera trimestris - - - 54 Lawn, The - 8, 12, 64, 65, 66, 67 Leek, The - - - 165,166 Leptosiphons - - . - 55 Lettuces - - . . I66, 167 Liatris spioata - - - - 33 Lilies, The Plantain - - - 31 „ The Peruvian - 24, 147-149 rrs fAOE gLilj', Arum ... 104 „ Belladonna - - - - 24 „ of the Nile, The - - 104 „ of the VaUey - - - 33 Limnanthes Douglasi - - 57 Linum grandiflorum - - - 53 Lobelias, Scarlet - - - 33 Lobelia, The 101 Loganberry, The - - - 190 Loosestrife, The - - - 34 Love-in-a-Mist - - - - 54 Lupines, The - - - - 33, 54 Lychnis, The Scarlet - - 34 Lycium ... 62 Lyre Flower, The - 30 M Maiden's Wreath, The 98 Mallow, Tree 54 Manures ..... 9 Manure Dressing, Basic Slag as a 130 Manuring, The Value of - - 9 Marguerfte, The Blue - 89 Daisy Fly - 116 The - - - 101 Marigolds . . . - . 56 Marrows, Vegetable 180, 181, 182 Marvel of Peru - - - 34 Meadow Saffron - - - 145 Melons in Frames - - 193-195 Mignonette 56 Mint 168, 169 Monarda didyma - - - 34 Montbretias, The - - - 34 Mushrooms in the Open Air 174, 175, 176 Musk, The Common "• - - 101 Mustard and Cress . - - 167 Myrtle, The - - - 102 N Narcissus Fly - - - 116 Nasturtium, The Flame - - 62 Nectarine, The - - - 187,188 Nemophila insignia - - - 54 Nigella damascena - - 54 (Enotheras, The - - 35 Oleander. The - - - - 102 Omphalodes vema - - - 35 Onions • ..... 167, 168 Orchids - - 106, 107, 108, 109 Pseonies - - - Palm, The Parlour Pansy, The - - - 35 - - 90 ■ 85, 36, 37 INDEX. 201 Paraffin Emulsion - - . 122 Paris Green - - . . 122 Parsnip 169 Parsley - - . . - 168 Passion-flowers ... 62 Paths, Weedy - . - - n „ Gravel - - - 130 Pea, The Everlasting - - - 61 Peas - - - . 169,170,171 „ Sweet - - . . 56,57 Peach, The - - - 187,188 Pear Saw-fly - - - - 117 Pears for Small Gardens - - 15 Pear, Growing the 185, 186 Pelargoniums, Ivy-leaved - 102, 103 „ Scented-leaved 102, 103 Pentstemons - - 37 Petunia, The - - - - 103 Periwinkles, The - - - - 40 Phacelia campanularia - 55 Phlox, Drummond's - - 55 Phloxes, The - - 37 Phvllooactus, The - - 103 Picotees 26,27,28 Pine, The Norfolk Island - 90 Pinks 26,27,28 ,, Chinese or Indian - - 56 Plant Bugs 117 „ Shifting a - - - - 124 „ Stopping a - - - 124 Plants, Hardy Bulhous - - 145 „ for the Summer Garden 13 ,, for the Little Rock Garden - - -49-51 ,, for growing under Trees 125 „ Treatment of Frosted - 128 ,, Popular Greenhouse 88-106 „ Keeping in Winter - 20 „ Shelter for Tender 124, 125 ,, The first to choose - 13 „ Tying 129 ,, Watering in Winter - 132 ,, Water-logged - - 123 Plumbago, The - - - - 103 Plum, Growing the - - 186, 187 Plums for Small Gardens 15 Polemonium 38 Polyanthuses ----- 38 Polygonum baldschuanicum - 62 Pond, Green Scum on a - - 128 Poppy, The - - - - 34, 53-55 Portulaca, The - - - - 55 Potatoes - - 171, 172, 173, 174 Pot-Pourri of Roses - - - 83 Pot, How to 124 ,, Worms in - - - - 12o Potting, Soils for - - 124 Primrose, The Chinese - " ^Jl Primrose, Evening - - 35, 38 Pyrethrum, The - - - - 39 o rAex R Radishes ...... 175 Raspberries for Small Gardens 15, 190 Red Spider 117 Rhubarb 176,177 Room and Window Flowers 16, 17 Road Scrapings for Heavy Soils 132 Rose Garden, A year in the 73, 74, 75, 76 ,, Growing in Pots - 77, 78, 79 „ Garden, The 69, 70, 71, 72, 73 Roses, Budding - - - 79, 80, 81 „ Christmas - - 40, 41 „ Dwarf , for Town Gardens 81 ,, Own-root - - - 82,83 „ Sun - - . 32 „ The best - - - 76, 77 Rudbeckia speciosa - - - 39 Salpiglossis ..5s Saxifrage - - 39 Scale Insects - 117 Salvia, The - - 104 Schizanthus, The - 106 Scabious Caucasian - 39 Soillas, The - - - 149 Scum, Green, on a Pond - - 128 Sea Kale - - - 171 ,, Lavenders - - - 55 ,, Pink - - - - 25 Seaside and Small Garden, Shrubs for the - 14 Sedum spectabile - - - 39 Shallots - - - - - 177 Shrubs and Trees, Select 13-15, 133, 140, 141, 143, 144 ,, Pruning - - . - 140 „ Tying - - - 129 SlugwormSj How to kill - 122 Snake Millipedes - - - 117 Snakeroot, Black - - - 30 Snowdrops - - - 146 Snowflakes, The - - - - 147 Snow in Summer . - - - 28 Soapwort, The - - - - 39 Soils, Road Scrapings for Heavy 132 Soil, Treatment of Shallow - 131 Solanum jaeminoides - - 62 Solomon's Seal - - - 39 Soot, The Use of - - - - 123 Speedwells, The - - - 40 Spinach .----- 177 Spiraea japonica - - - 105 Spiderwort, The Virginian - 39 Spittle-fly 116 Spring in the Garden - - 11 Star-flower, The Spring - - 40 202 INDEX. FASE Stars of Bethlehem - - - 147 Statioes, The .... 55 Stembergia lutea ... 149 Strawberries for Small Gardens 15 Strawberry, The - - - 190-192 StreptocarpuSj The - - 105 Stock, Virginian - ... 58 Stonecrops, The .... 39 Sunflowers, The Perennial 32 Sun Plant, The - - 55 Sweet Peas .... 66, 57 Sweet-william, The - 39 Thrift 25 Thrips 117,118 Tobacoo-flowera ... - 55 Tomatoes in Greenhouse and Out-of-doors 177, 178, 179, 180 Tools, Garden - - .126 Town Gardens - 17, 18, 19, 20 „ Shrubs for - 14 Trees, About - - 125-129, 133-144 Trenching - - - - . 155 Trillium grandiflorum 40 Trollius, The - - 40 Tropaeolum speoiosum - - 62 Tulip, The - - - 150 Turnips ... 180 Vallota purpurea - - . . 105 Vegetable Gardens, About Restoring - . - 11, 13, 15 Vegetable Marrows - 180, 181, 182 Vegetables, Useful - - 157-180 Venus' 8 Looking-glass - 65 PASS Verbena, The Lemon-scented - 89 Verbenas ..---. lOfl Veronicas, The - 40 Vincas, The - - - 40 Vines, The - - - 62,63 ,, in the Greenhouse 195-197 Violets in Summer and Winter 41, 43, 44, 45 „ Propagating ... 43 Virginian Stock - - . - 58 Viscaria - . - .58 W Walks ..... 8 Wall Gardening ... 45, 48 Watercress, Growing - - 132, 133 Watering Plants in Winter - 133 Weeds, Getting rid of - 67, 68 Weevils - - - - 118,119 Winter Moth - - - . 119 Windflower, The Japanese - 24 The Poppy - - 24 Windflowers . - - . . 24 Window and Room Flowers 16, 17 ,, Boxes, Plants for - 15 Wire, Danger of Galvanised - 126 Wireworms .... 120,122 Wistarias - - 63 Woodlioe 120 Wood Lily, The White - - 40 Worms in Pots - - 123 Yew Hedge, Care of - - 141, 143 Zinnia 58 DIAGRAMS. American Blight - - 111 Carnation, Layering the - 27 Celery Fly - - - - 113 Chrysanthemums from Cuttings 96 Clematis, Propagating the - 60 Codling Moth - - - 113 Fuchsias from Cuttings - - 99 Magpie Moth - - 114 Pink, Propagating the - - 29 Rock-gardening, Beginning - 48 What to Avoid 50 Roses, Budding - ,, from Cuttings Strawberries, Planting Trench, How to - Vine, How to Plant - Violet, Propagating the 80,81 - 74 191, 193 155, 156 - 196 Winter Moth - ." . . .119 FRIHIBD AT IBB BOSBIIOUIII FRB88, LOMSOK AND ABBBDEEN. SPECIAL NOTICE FOR 1909. IF YOU WANT REALLY GOOD SEEDS AND BULBS AT MODERATE PRICES, SEND TO ROBERT SYDENHAM, LIMITED, 99 TENBY STREET, BIRMINGHAM, No one will serve you better. THEIR UNIQUE LISTS Are acknowledged by all to be the Best, Cheapest, and most Keliable ever published. Tbey contain only the Best VEGETABLES, FLOWERS, AND BULBS WORTH GROWING, Being the Selections of the Largest Seed Crrowers, Market Gar- deners, and the most celebrated Professional Gardeners and Amateurs in the Kingdom. They also contain very useful cultural instructions. The quality of their Seeds and Bulbs is well known all over the trnited Kingdom as being equal to anything in the market. THE BEST TOMATOES, 3d. per packet of 200 Seeds. THE BEST CUCITMBEBS, 6d. per packet of 10 Seeds. THE BEST ONIONS FOR EXHIBITION- Ezcelaior or Ailsa Craig, 6d. per packet of about 1,500 [Seeds SWEET PEAS A SPECIALITY. No flowers give so much cut bloom at so little cost and trouble^if treated as instructions sent with each Collection. 12 useful varieties, 50 Seeds of each, Is. 3d. ; 12 good varieties, 50 Seeds of each, Is. 6d. ; or the Two Collections for 28. 6d. ; a Third CoUeotion of the 12 best varieties, 50 Seeds of each, 2s. ; or the Three Collections, 4s post free, and a packet of the four best striped and four other varieties free of charge ; making 44 varieties at about Id. a packet, Flea$e compare these Pricei with what you are paying. ALL OTHEB SBEDS EQUALliT CHEAP AND QOOD. FULL LISTS ON APPLICATION. THIS FIBM HAS THE LABQEST BETAIL SWBZT PEA AMD BULB TRADE IN THE EINQCOM. A PENNY FOR YOUR GARDEN BY SPENDING A PENNY A WEEK YOU MAY DOUBLE YOUR ENJOYMENT OF GARDENING BUY THE GARDEN ONE PENNY WEEKLY, AND READ WHAT IT SAYS ABOUT THE FLOWER GARDEN, — THE ROSE GARDEN, — THE VEGETABLE GARDEN, AND EVERY OTHER BRANCH OF AMATEUR .... AND PROFESSIONAL GARDENING. . . . The notes on "Gardening of the Week" tell you what you ought to do each week in the year. The various Articles written by Experts will keep you well informed about Horticultural Developments. It contains Special Features for Beginners, and gives "Answers to Correspondents." COLOURED PLATES ARE GIVEN FREE EVERY OTHER WEEK. VALUABLE PRIZES OFFERED. BUY "THE GARDEN." THE MORE YOU KNOW ABOUT GARDENING THE MORE .... YOU WILL ENJOY IT OBTAINABLE AT ALL NEWSAGENTS. BUCKMORE & LANGDON'S In Highest Quality, for Exhibition, Conservatory, or Bedding Out, etc. AWARDED 18 GOLD MEDALS AND 8 SILVER CUPS. SEED IN SEALED PACKETS :— Double, 2/6 and 6/- ; Single, 1/-, 2/6, and 6/-. »ingl« ulir* i« ieparate colours. Also, Created and Frilled Singles, 1/-, 2/6, and 5/-. Grand LAIIGB TUBERS, TO COLOUR :— Double, 4/-, 12/6, and 30/- per doz. Sintfo, 8/-, 8/-, and 15/- per doz. Crested and Frilled Singles, same price as other Singles. Mixed Doubln. J/- per doz. ; 21/- per 100. Semi-Doubles (cheapest beddera), 10/- per 100. Mixed Singles, S^S pn- ilo«. ; 17/5 per 100. Cyclamen, Delphinium, Polyanthus, Violets, etc. OARNATIONS.-k cuand collection of ^\i sectiops, including the Latest and Best New American Winter Flowering Ywietim. FOR NAMES AND DESCRIPTION SEE CATALOGUE. 1 Dozen Choice-named Border Carnations, 5/-. Our New Illustrated Catalogue, with Cultural Instructions, Post Fre«. TWERTON hTuT NURSERY, BATH. J. CHEAL & SONS. NURSERIES— no ACRES. ORNAMENTAL TREES, ETC.— Shrubs, Roses, Rhododendrons, Climbing Roses, Fore»t Trees, etc. FRUIT TREES— An Immense Stock. True to Name, Healthy, and Hardy. SEED DEPARTMENT— ... Vegetable, Flower, and Farm Seeds, Bulbs, and Sundnc*. DAHLIAS A SPECIALITY- Hardy, Herbaceous, Alpine, and Rock Plants. LANDSCAPE GARDENING- , ^ . Gardens, Lawns, Parks, and all Ornamental Grounds Designed and Laid Out. London Office for this D epartment-53 VI CTORIA STKEET, S.W. A Beautifully Illustrated BooHit on " Garden Makwg" Post Free on application J. CHEAL & SONS, The Nurseries, CRAWLEY. KEYNES' SPECIALITIES : ROSES. . . DAHLIAS. . VINE5. . . FRUIT TREES. Our Roses, being raised in a some- what stony soil of calcareous origin, form an abundance of fibrous roots, and thrive everywhere. The finest collection in the king- dom. Scarcely an exhibition stand is ever put up without Keynes' Varieties figuring in it. Thousands grown every year with the greatest care for planting out in Vineries or for fruiting in Pots. All the leading kinds. Reliable alike for cleanliness, freedom from canker, and perfectly true to name and character. Catalogues of these Specialities gratis. KEYNES, WILLIAMS & CO., The Nurseries, SALISBURY. ESTABLISHED 1881. CHAS. TOOPE (F.B.H.S.) & SON, stepney Square, High Street, Stepney, LONDON, E. Telegrams : "Toopes, Ixindon." Telephone : 3497 E. MANUFACTURERS & PATENTEES of Oil and Gas Heating Apparatus for Greenhouses, Conservatories, Hothouses, Vineries, Garden Frames, Motor Houses, Kennels, Poultry Buildings, etc. The name ' ' TOOPE " stamps quality. We are the original Inventors and Makers of SEED PROPAGATORS HOT WATER or HOT AIR from 14/- complete. PROPAGATOR FITTINGS. Imitated, but not improved upon. French Bell Glasses, Mats, Gas Frames, etc. Ask our advice, it is at your service. Send for free Booklet, L. PLANT FUMIGATOBS, SYRINGES, SPRAYERS. HOSE, BtO. Highest Awards wherever exhibited. Superior Goods. Low Prices. Quick Deliveries. The StancMe Estates Co, Ltd, => Carriage Paid. WITH'S PLANT FOOD (The Magic Fertilizer) Produces Lovely Flowers, Delicious Fruit and Vegetables. Free from Smell. Does not Soil the Hands. A Concentrated Powder. Applied Liquid. Tins— Is. and 2s. 6d. Post Free. BAGS-5 lbs., 2s. ; 10 lbs., 3s. 6d. ; 28 lbs., 7s. 6d. ; 56 lbs., 13s. 6d. Carriage Paid. Full Instructions In every Bag. With's Tomato Manure. With's Sweet Pea Manure. Send for Gardening Pamphlet Post Free. WITH'S MANURE CO., HEREFORD. Established 1875. THE ONLY ORIGINAL LAWN SAND : (IMPROVED). WATSON'S LAWN SAND, on WEED DESTROYER. Thi« preparation (which is a light grey dry powder, and which was introduced to the pnbli* by the inrentor in 1868) has the remarkable property of destroying Daisies, Plantains, Dandelions, and other similar Weeds, and at the same time of improving the grass by enriching the gree> and thickening the sward. An annual application of the Lawn Sand not only destroys the Seed- ling Weeds, but by invigorating the grass prevents, to some extent, the burning up dming tlM hot, dry weather. Testimonials and Instructions on application. 34/- pep cwt.; 56-lb. Kegs, 18/-; 28-lb. Tins, 9/6. Sample Canisters, S/6, 2/6 (post 3/1), and 1/- (post 1/5). When ordering please see that you get the Genuine Article. Sold by Seedsmen and N\irserymen, or direct from the Depot, A. J. BARBOUR, 8 Upper Fountaine Street, LEEDS. HAVE YOU GARDEN DIFFICULTIES t^eV.^tUZ?^'^'^^ — ing, or the glassbonse ? If so, get "THE GARDEN," E.r^"ooK. The best Fenny Gardening Paper. Its weekly article on "Gardening for Beginners" tells you scores of things you want to know, and you should never fail to read it. Other special features include " Gardening of the Week " and " Answers to Correspondents." LARGE COLOURED PLATES (arrSM FBEB WITH SVEBY OTHER ISSUE). ONE PENNY WEEKLY, Of all Newsagents and Bookstalls. ESTABLISHED 1885. PEARCE & COMPANY. WELL-MADE GREENHOUSES "ARTISTIC" CONSERVATORIES, GREENHOUSES, etc.. In all Styles, at Cheap Prlcee. TENANT'S FIXTURES. CUCUMBER FRAMES. Made Complete. All 21 -oz. Glass. Special OflPop.— SPAN HOUSE, 15 It. by 8 ft., 8 ft. to ridge, 2 roof and 2 side ventilators, with staging, packed for rail, £8 ISs. Other sizes, see list. FRENCH GARDENING LIGHTS, Etc. i^Vb"3 o 17 " HOLLOWAY " Boilers. '^ *''^* ^ ^^ " No. 1 for 50 ft. 4 in. pipe £1 17 8 No. 2 for 75 ft. i in. pipe £2 2 6 Glaaed with 21 ok Glasi a»* fainted 2 eoata. Light*. It. « s. «• 2..61)y 8. .2 7 B 3..6byl2..3 7 • t S.6. NOTE.— Our prices include Rubber Joints. Complete Apparatus from £2 15s. LISTS FREE. Golf Pavilions. Motor Houses. Rustic Summer Houses. CLIENTS WAITED UPON ALL PARTS COUHTBT. RUSTIC WORK. — Rustic Arches, 7s.