atifata, SCtio lack 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 COLLECTION 
 
 CHINA AND THE CHINESE 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 
 CLASS OF 1876 
 
 1918 
 
Cornell University Library 
 G 440.T92 
 
 Around the world with eyes wide open :th 
 
 3 1924 023 439 544 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023439544 
 
Around THE WORLD 
 
 WITH EYES 
 WIDE OPEN 
 
 m 
 
 The Wonders of the 
 World Pictured by ^m 
 at Pen and Pencil ^ 
 
 BY 
 
 H. Allen Tupper, Jr., d.d. 
 
 Author of "Armenia: Its Present Crisis and Past History," "Columbia's War for 
 Cuba," "Uncle Allen's trip Through Palestine," Etc. 
 
 Published by 
 THE CHRISTIAN HERALD 
 
 Louis Klopsch, Proprietor 
 
 Bible House, New York 
 1898 
 
Copyright, 1898, LOUIS KLOPSCH. 
 
DEDICATION 
 
 Tu my wife 
 
 MARIE 
 
 and 
 
 my children 
 Allene, Katherine and Tristram 
 
 This volume 
 is lovingly dedicated 
 
 H. Allen Tupper, Jr. 
 
How It ^ ^ 
 
 Happened ^ ^ 
 
 ee€###e««€e€€€€€€€©€i«»- 
 
 fT happened in this way. In the 
 spring of 189^, a handsome map 
 of the world was presented me 
 by a friend at Baltimore; and 
 while glancing at it, hanging 
 ^on my study wall, I arose from 
 r my desk-chair, one quiet mid- 
 night hour, and traced with my 
 pencil a route from Baltimore, 
 over the American Continent, to 
 San Francisco, thence to the 
 Hawaiian Islands, Japan, China, Malay Archipelago, Ceylon, India, 
 Assam, Arabia, Africa, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, Europe, and 
 back again to the Monumental City. This was only on paper 1 
 
 But, day by day, as my eyes turned wistfully toward the map, 
 
 (5) 
 
6 HOW IT HAPPENED. 
 
 which now became increasingly fascinating, the desire of my 
 life to visit the countries of the world, and study the peoples 
 of earth, grew into a determination to start upon this circuit of 
 the globe at the earliest practicable moment. Difficulties which 
 seem insurmountable, frequently fade away as you approach 
 them. Distance not only lends enchantment to the view, but 
 oftentimes it disenchants, by seemingly magnifying the obstacles 
 that lie in the pathway of our goal. The only way to do a 
 thing is to do it. Events conspire to lend a helping hand to a 
 determined purpose. A few months after the pencil-tracing on 
 the map was made, 1 waved farewell to my loved ones at the 
 Union Station, Baltimore, and was off — moving toward the setting 
 sun. While 1 expected to receive much pleasure from the 
 extended trip before me, this was not the supreme motive that 
 actuated me. 1 decided, in my journeyings, frequently to turn 
 aside from the usual route pursued by the globe-trotter ; to 
 rough it while studying the customs and characteristics of 
 natives far from the treaty ports ; systematically to record my 
 impressions and the results of my study, on the ground, day 
 by day, while they were fresh in my mind ; to illustrate these 
 strange scenes and interesting studies both by the pen and the 
 photographic art ; and to present to the public a book on travel 
 that would be somewhat unique in its character. If I have 
 enabled others to share with me the pleasures and profits of 
 
HOW IT HAPPENED. 7 
 
 my visits to many lands and among many peoples, and if I 
 have evoked or strengthened a desire for travel in the minds of 
 the readers of these pages, my pen has not written in vain. 
 In the words of the "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we find 
 nothing wiser than this : 
 
 " I rather would entreat thy company 
 To see the wonders of the world abroad, 
 Than, living dully sluggardized at home, 
 Wear out thy youth with shapeless idleness." 
 
 H. Allen Tupper, Jr. 
 
-^ CONTENTS. h^ 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 ACROSS A CONTINENT AND AN OCEAN. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Colorado's carnival and festival of mountain and plain — The Garden of the Gods — The 
 wonderland of the Rockies — The grave of Helen Hunt Jackson — Sierra Blanca's 
 Triple Peak — Through the Toltec Tunnel — The Holy Cross — Our new sister, Utah — 
 At the Golden Gate — Cosmopolitan San Francisco — Chinatown — The Paradise of 
 the Pacific — The Sandwich Islands — Volcanic origin — The House of the Ever- 
 lasting Fire — Historical places and people — Captain Cook's'monument — The leper 
 settlement on Molokai Island Father Damiens — Business prospects and the annexa- 
 tion question — President McKinley and the treaty of annexation — The Hawaiian 
 tongue 33-47 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 
 
 Dropping a day in mid-ocean, at the world-'s halfway point — Beautiful Yeddo Bay and 
 sunlit Fuji-Yama — Strange street scenes — Chrysanthemum show — A thrifty race — 
 A bit of Japanese history — Social life — Marriage customs — Status of woman — 
 Division of society — Educational development and .foreign influence — National 
 decorative art — The jinrikisha, an American invention — Newspaper and censor- 
 ship — Railroad and telegraph rates — The funeral of Prince Kitashirakawa^A 
 brilliant cortege^apan, after victory — Resolved to become a military and naval 
 power — Her ambition and anxiety — Russia may reap the fruits of her success — 
 
 (9) 
 
lo CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Acquisition of Formosa, and preponderance in Corea — Secret treaty between China 
 and the Czar — How the eastern breezes blow — Japan's new attitude — ^The ascend- 
 ancy of the Samurai — Efiect on western merchants and missionaries 48-72 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 THE INTERIOR OF JAPAN. 
 
 Characteristic features of its people and products — Farm and village life — The harvest 
 festival — Native industries — Process of silkmaking — Lacquer work — In the Mikado's 
 palace^A beautiful inland sea — Where Li Hung Chang was shot — A unique experi- 
 ence in a native hotel — In the mountains of Japan — The shrines and temples of 
 Nikko — One of Japan's five wonders — Monkeys in the mountains— Curious con- 
 tracts — The two-legged horse, and the two-wheeled carriage — Instructive statistics 73-86 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 THE LAND OF THE PIQ=TAIL. 
 
 The most important city of Central China — The street sights of the Native city — A 
 typical tea-shop — Questionable water-supply, and epidemics — The opium trade — 
 Curious customs of contrary creatures — Historico- political review of the Middle 
 Kingdom — Her government and money — The Empire larger than the whole of 
 Europe — The Manchou dynasty and hierarchy a corrupt administration — Foreign 
 influences — Taxes and revenues — The Imperial Cabinet, Censorate and officials — 
 The national militia — The navy — Fortifications 87-102 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 STRANGEST OF STRANQE CITIES. 
 
 Canton, China's commercial capital — Its approach by Hong Kong — A floating city of 
 two hundred thousand souls— The Pearl river — Description of the sights in the 
 narrow streets— A Chinese dwelling— Sacred hogs— Hideous idols— The leper 
 
CONTENTS. It 
 
 village — Slavery of blind girls in Canton — Human beings bought and sold as 
 chattels — Recent massacres and riots — The Kucheng atrocities — The leader's con- 
 fession — Characteristic traits of John Chinaman's conduct, dress and head-gear — 
 Process of foot-binding — The condition of woman — Female fancy, sports and 
 superstition — The dragon emblem — Food and markets — Capital punishment — The 
 beggars' guild loj-iaa 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 LANQUAQE AND LITERATURE IN THE niDDLE KINGDOM. 
 
 Classification of John Chinaman's tongue — Style of writing — Divisions of speech — 
 Many dialects — The Mandarin tongue — Puzzling intonation — Multiplicity of verbs — 
 vSpoken and book language different — Development of the memory and imitative 
 faculty — Civil seryice examinations — Degrees and promotions — Attempts at a for- 
 eign tongue — Funny illustrations of Pidgin English — An English colony among: 
 the Celestials — Opium a harbinger to Christian missions — Hatred of the "Outer 
 Barbarians " — How Hong Kong became British — Effect of English literature upon 
 art and language 125-135 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 IN THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 Near the Equator — Climate, productions and various races— Land of perpetual sum- 
 mer — Adami mode of life — Volcanic belt — Malays and Papuans — The island of 
 Singapore — A babel of tongues — ^Unwelcome neighbors — Forest of cocoanut trees — 
 Penang's bronze population — The palace of the Sultan of Johore — Fields of 
 
12 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 research for the naturalist — A comical creature — The orang outang at home — His 
 domestic virtues— Dignity of demeanor and elevation of character — The birds of 
 Paradise — Their brilliant plumage and varieties 136-151 
 
 CHAPTER VIH. 
 THE SPICY BREEZES OF CEYLON. 
 
 Tour through forest and jungles — Topography, flora and fauna of the island — Frag- 
 rant gardens and population — In the Alpine regions of the Kandyan Kingdom — 
 Strange sights in and about a Ceylonese town — Buddha's great tooth — Ceylon's tea 
 cultivation— Extremes in Ceylon — A swell Singhalese wedding — Painted, powdered 
 and brilliantly costumed creatures — In a marriage procession along the Indian 
 Ocean — The wild men of Ceylon — A strange tribe of savages— The interview with 
 Arabi Pasha, the Egyptian reformer 152-177 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA. 
 
 Pleasurable embarrassment on leaving Ceylon— Elephants on hand— Across the Bay of 
 Bengal— Breakwaters on the Coromandel coast— The city of Madras, and its sacred 
 and secular sights— Curious canoes— Black and white town— The people's park, 
 churches and school— Shops and bazaars — Dancing girls — The Seven Pagodas — 
 Prom Madras to Calcutta — India's political capital— The City of Palaces— Remini- 
 scences of Charnoock, Clive and Warren Hastings— Historic spots— The shrine of 
 the Goddess Kali — Cremation of the dead — The wonderful banyan tree — King 
 Oude's palace 178-196 
 
CONTENTS. 13 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 IN THE HiriALAYAS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Ascending the mountains on a toy railway — Grandest work of engineering in the 
 world — City in the clouds — Stupendous magnificence of Alpine scenery — ^The 
 "Hall of Snows," viewing Mount Everest — A picture impossible to forget, and 
 impossible to paint — -Chauges of vegetation — Interesting types of people— The 
 market of Darjeeling — Himalayan tea — Railway system in Northern India and 
 Assam — Sleeping cars that encourage domestic economy — Crossing the mountains — 
 Verdant delusion — Amusing scenes in the wilds of Assam — On the sacred river of 
 Brahmaputra — Fine hunting grounds — In a bungalow forest hotel — Its guests and 
 their criticisms — An erratic timepiece 197-212 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE WONDERS OF INTERIOR INDIA. 
 
 Benares on the Ganges — One of the oldest known habitations of man — Where Buddha 
 arose — A shrine of pilgrimage for the Hindu world — Bathing in the holy waters 
 of the Ganges — ^The burning ghats — Smoking pyres — The monkej' temple — The 
 Holy Man of Benares — Edifices dedicated to cattle — Brasswork and brocades — An 
 elegy in marble — The Taj MaL-al at Agra — The most superb monument ever reared 
 ro woman — When Mohammedan architecture reached its climax — Shah Jehan end 
 Aijamand, "The Exalted One of the Palace " — Reign of the Moguls— The mag- 
 nificent palaces and mosques at Delhi — Streets full of monkeys — An Indian wolf- 
 man — His life in the caves and jungles — Failure to teach him human habits — His 
 capture, training and habits — India's independent State and native rulers — Great 
 Britain's sovereignty — The Maharajah Mardozing — His capital and palaces — A 
 ride on elephant-back— Marvelous oriental decorations and jewels, gold and silver 
 cannon 213-250 
 
34 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 THE QUEEN OF THE EAST AND INDIAN HOSAICS. 
 
 PAGK 
 
 The commercial metropolis of India — Its motley population — Religious sects, and 
 antagonistic creeds — Where vegetarianism flourishes — Veneration for animal life 
 among the Banians — A warrior class — The Parsees, followers of Zoroaster, fire- 
 worshipers — Curious head-dress — The towers of silence — Strauge disposition of 
 ■the dead — Filth and holiness — Brilliant scenes — The Island of Elephanta — An 
 asylum for animals — Photograph of Indian life — People of various colors, customs 
 and languages — Indo-Caucasian races — Use of tobacco and intoxicants — Sacred 
 ^months and the New Year — A marriage procession — Women's ornaments — The 
 Nautch dancers — A maharajah's audience, and his premiere danseuse — The Indian 
 mutiny, causes of the revolt — Nana Sahib's perfidy — The defence of Lucknow — 
 The present uprising — Caste and outcasts — A personal experience — Marks on the 
 jbiehead — Famine in India — Dr. KXopsch. and the Chrisiian /lerald 251-262 
 
 CHAPTER XIIT. 
 
 FAREWELL TO INDIA, GREETING TO EGYPT, 
 
 "Omjugh the Arabian and Red seas — The Arab on his native heath — The Suez canal — 
 The marriage of the Mediterranean and Red seas — Planned by the Pharaohs — Na- 
 poleon Bonaparte's foiled project — Perseverance and personality of De Lesseps, the 
 constructor — England's hostile attitude — A new era in commerce — Cost of the canal 
 — Cuts through historic land — Three Egypts — I,and of Arabian Nights— In the 
 streets of Cairo— The gateway of the Ali, and the paths of Harun-al-Raschid— 
 Scenes from Thousand and One nights — Bazars and public buildings— Picturesque 
 costumes — Saracenic architecture — Mohammedan homes and women — Mosques and 
 fitadel — ^The Dervishes 263-277 
 
CONTENTS. 15 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 THE HISTORIC NILE AND THE EXCAVATOR'S PICK-AXE. 
 
 PAOE. 
 
 The divisions of Upper and Lower Egypt — The Valley of the Nile — Centre of ancient 
 culture — The Delta fertility — Characteristic scenes on the historic stream — ^The 
 Nubians — The I,ybian hills — Life as it existed thousands of years ago — ^A wonder- 
 land of history — The sacred sycamore tree — Where Joseph married Potiphar's 
 daughter— Splendor and records of Memphis — Sakkarah's Necropolis, the Apis 
 mausoleum — The Temple of Osiris and the tablet of the Kings — Abydos and the 
 Memnonium — The portraits of Cleopatra and Csesarion — Wondrous Thebes, the 
 City of a Hundred Gates of Homer's verse — Its unearthed monijments — ^The hugest 
 statue ever cut out of a single stone — The twin colossi — ^Vocal Memnon — ^Tombs of 
 the Kings — ^Temples of Luxor and Karnak — The Hall of Columns and its sculptured 
 records — An Egyptian encyclopaedia, carved by the chisel — The Island of Philae 
 — Saved from the Vandals — Traces and theories of the prehistoric man — Explora- 
 tions during the last year — Explorations of Professor Flinders Petrie — ^The dis- 
 covery of " The Sayings of Christ " ...... 278-304 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 THE GREAT PYRAHIDS AND THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. 
 
 Whv were the Pyramids built ? — Psychological theories of the Egyptians — The tomb 
 an eternal home — ^The sepulchre of Cheops — Its grandeur and dimensions — 
 The interior and contents — The legend of Queen Nitocris, the Loreley of the Nile — 
 The Great Sphynx of Gizeh — A mysterious statue hewn in the living rock — ^Whence 
 came the original Egyptians? — ^The aboriginal race— Bible lore and picture record 
 — Effect of inter-marriage with Semitic people — The Egyptian of to-day an exact 
 reproduction of his ancestors — The Fellahin — ^The Copts of Upper Egypt, and their 
 religion — Bedouins, Greeks and other elements — Alexandria as it was, and now is 
 — Anglo-Egyptian expedition up the Nile 305-333 
 
I6 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 PILGRinS IN PALESTINE, THE HOLY CITY. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 From Egypt to Syria — The city of Jaflfa — Approaching the Holy City — Pilgrims to the 
 holy sepulchre — Bird's-eye view of the city of the great king — Work of the Pales- 
 tine exploration fund — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Mosque of Omar 
 — The sacred rock — The praying places of Abraham, Elijah, David, Solomon and 
 Mohammed — The Via Dolorosa — ^The Jews' wailing place — The mountains round 
 about Jerusalem — The site of Calvary and the sepulchre — Traditional localities are 
 not the true ones — St. Helena's Dream — Major Conder's discovery — Probable sites 
 of the Crucifixion, and the rock-hewn grave —Inferences 334-357 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 PEOPLES AND PLACES OF THE SOUTH AND NORTH. 
 
 Among the Bedouins — An American guide's story — Life and habits of migratory robber 
 tribes — A missionary adventure — Home of Eli and Samuel — ^At Jacob's well — The 
 Samaritans — On Mount Gerizim — The City of Samaria 358-363 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 IN SADDLE AND TENT. 
 
 Records of Bethel — Footsteps of the Saviour — The Plain of Esdraelon and the Valley of 
 Jezreel — Mount Tabor — Nazareth, scenes of Christ's youth — The Virgin's fountain 
 — Cana and the Mount of Beatitude — The last battlefield of the Crusaders— On the 
 Sea of Galilee — Divine associations— Camping near Capernaum, Bethsaida and 
 Chorazin— Moonlight sail on the eastern side of the lake 3^-37& 
 
CONTENTS. 17 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 THE EYE OF THE EAST. 
 
 PAGE, 
 
 Damascus, the Eye of the East, reared before the time of Abraham — The stream of Leb- 
 anon — Beautiful environments of modern Damascus — Its bazars and streets — The 
 fanaticism of the people — The unspeakable Turk — Paul's conversion and his sta3- 
 in the city — The marvelous ruins of Baalbec — Sun worship, and temples — Courts 
 and porticoes — Sun's trilithon — The quarries of Lebanon 375-381 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 IN ASIA MINOR. 
 
 The Levant — Smyrna, the capital of Anatolia — Centre of the caravan trade of Asia 
 Minor — Busy streets— Its glorious past — Its antiquities— Birthplace of Homer — 
 Ephesus, the old capital of Ionia — Birthplace of Diana — Its location — Christian 
 association — Paul and the Ephesians — Its ruins — Pagan and Christian record — 
 Turkish tyranny— Official rottenness — Oppressive taxation — ^Justice with a vengeance 
 — Constantinople, the City of the Sultan — Its beautiful situation — Its name and his- 
 tory — Life and scenes — Galata, on the north of the Golden Horn — Pera, the town 
 of Sartari — The Mosque of St. Sophia— Curious sepulchral chapels — The bazars and 
 the crowds — A world in miniature — Up the Bosphorus 382-395 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 A REIGN OF TERROR. 
 
 Appalling state of affairs in Armenia — A plan of extermination — Massacre of Christians 
 at the Sultan's orders — Victims of diabolical torture — Hecatombs of martyrs in the 
 Church of Oorfa — Treatment of women — Work of relief — Who are the Armenians ? 
 Their religion and clergy — Culture and education — Traders and farmers — Home 
 and family — An unmixed race — ^The attitude of the powers — Christian Herald work 
 
1 8 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 — ^A colonization scheme — Would it be practicable ? — Missions in Turkey — Educa- 
 tional influences — Centres of light for Asia — Thorns in the flesh of the Sultan — Re- 
 capitulation of the situation 396-420 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 AMIDST THE CLASSIC RUINS OF GREECE. 
 
 The Acropolis of Athens and the age of Hellenic art — ^The gates of the Propylaaa and the 
 Parthenon — Embodiment of majesty and grace — Sculptured decorations — Work of 
 Phidias — In the time of Pericles — ^Theatres and temples — Statue of Athene — St. 
 Paul on Mar's Hill — Theatre of Dionysus — Superiority of the Greek stage over the 
 Modern — The decline of Hellas — Dr. Schliemann's excavations, and Homer's poems 
 — An inspiring helpmate — Historic Troy — Homer's testimony — Ancient art of writ- 
 ing — Americans at the Olympic games — Athenian parliamentary election on 
 Sunday 421-431 
 
 CHAPTER XXIir. 
 
 A OEH OF THE SEAS. 
 
 A-scension of Vesuvius on foot — At the crater's mouth — The twenty-fourth of August of 
 seventy-nine — ^The historical aspect of Vesuvius —Destruction of Pompeii, and the 
 death of Pliny, the naturalist — A dead city — Excavations and discoveries — Streets 
 and structure of houses in the buried city — A Roman summer resort — Antiquities — 
 Lifting the veil between the present and the past 432-444 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 THE CITY OF THE C/€SARS. 
 
 The facts and fables of Rome 445-457 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 19 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 GENOA AND GIBRALTAR. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 An ancient town's republican career — The ages and palaces of the Doges — The modern 
 history of Genoa — Reminiscences of Garibaldi — Home of Christopher Columbus — 
 The key to the Mediterranean Sea — Strait of Gibraltar — An impregnable citadel — 
 A necessity for England— Its history and description — Its caves and Moorish occu- 
 pation — The town of Gibraltar — Across the Atlantic and home again 458-464 
 

 I ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 % 
 
 ^ee«- 
 
 PARE, 
 
 Dr. H. Allen Tupper, Jr 33 
 
 Pike's Peak from Colorado Spring.s 34 
 
 Withiu the Gates, Garden of the Gods 35 
 
 The " Mountain of the Cross, " Colorado 36 
 
 The East Side of East Temple Street, Salt Lake City 37 
 
 Sacramento Canon, California 38 
 
 San FrarLcisco and the Golden Gate 39 
 
 The Royal Palace, Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands 41 
 
 Hawaiian Girls in Floral Garlands , 43 
 
 Honolulu Pineapple Grove 45 
 
 A Hawaiian Grass Hut and its Occupants 46 
 
 Laborer of the Cooley Cla-ss 49 
 
 Gambling in Japan 50 
 
 Buddhist Temple, Nikko, Japan 51 
 
 Interior Bviddhist Temple, Japan 52 
 
 Music in the Home, Japan 53 
 
 Hair Arranged by Unmarried Woman, Japan 54 
 
 Four Japanese Ladies 55 
 
 Japanese Belles 5^ 
 
 Wedding Procession, Japan 57 
 
 (21) 
 
22 lIvI^USTRATIONS. 
 
 PACK. 
 
 Japanese Girls Carrying Babies 58 
 
 At School, Japan jg, 
 
 Japanese Actress 60 
 
 Japanese Actor 61 
 
 A Japanese Actress 61 
 
 Japanese Catriage 6> 
 
 Jinrikisha , 63. 
 
 In the Home, Japan 64 
 
 Japanese Domestics 6g 
 
 Entrance to Japanese Temple 66 
 
 Entrance to Sheba Temple, Tokio 67 
 
 Tea Drinking, Japan 68- 
 
 Mountain Village, Japan 69 
 
 Fruit Merchant, Japan yi 
 
 Rice Planting, Japan ... -^ 
 
 Working with Silk Weavers, Japan ys 
 
 Street Scene in Yokohama, Japan y^ 
 
 Japan Fan Dealer 
 
 Inland Sea, Japan yg^ 
 
 Favorite Game with Japanese Girls -q, 
 
 At Nikko, Japan So 
 
 Work on Temple, Japan gj 
 
 Holy Horse before Buddhist Temple, Nikko, Japan S2. 
 
 Japan Lady in Jinrikisha g . 
 
 Women Prisoners, Shanghai, China gg 
 
 Chinese Barber Shop, Shanghai, China gq 
 
 The Golden Island, with Unfini,shed Pagoda, near Chin Kiang ... q^ 
 
 The Art of Printing as seen in Shanghai, China gj 
 
 River Scene at Kayin, China _ , 02 
 
II.I.USTRATIONS. 23 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 A Tea Picker 93 
 
 Farming Operations in Southern China — Plowing with an Ox 94 
 
 Earl l,i Visiting General Grant's Tomb . 95 
 
 The Pekin Gate in the Great Wall of China 96 
 
 Exterior of the Royal Palace, Pekin, China 97 
 
 A Kayiu Plowman 98 
 
 Reception of a Foreign Ambassador by the Emperor of China . . : 99 
 
 A Nine-inch Gun, Chinese Artillery, Ready for Action 100 
 
 Native Farm in the Vicinity of Canton, China loi 
 
 On the River, Canton 104 
 
 A Chinese Gentleman's Home 105 
 
 Temple at Ningpo 106 
 
 Bird's-eye View of Canton, China 107 
 
 The "Floating City " on Pearl River, Canton, China loS 
 
 Island of the I/ittle Orphan in the Yangtze 109 
 
 Redeemed Blind Girls under Miss Whilden's Care, Canton, China m 
 
 Chinese Gambling on the Roof of a House at Canton, China iij 
 
 Mrs. Grave's and Miss White's Girls' School at Canton, China 115 
 
 Bound Foot of Chinese Woman 117 
 
 The Beheading of Pirates Near Hong Kong, China . no 
 
 Chinese Execution, Canton 121 
 
 Immediately after Beheading of Pirates near Hong Kong, China 124 
 
 A Literary Officer and his Wife 126 
 
 Head of a Pirate Hung upon the Roadside at Canton, China 128 
 
 Street Scene, Hong Kong, China 131 
 
 Crematory at Canton, Used for Burning the Bodies of Priests 132 
 
 Chief Magistrate, Shanghai ". 133 
 
 Farmers and their Wives Threshing Rice 134 
 
 Malay Man . 137 
 
24 ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Natives of Singapore 13^ 
 
 Malay Children 140 
 
 Travelers' Palm, Singapore 141 
 
 Group in Malay Archipelago 142 
 
 Cocoa 143 
 
 An Orang-Ontang from Penang I44 
 
 The Delicious Mangosteen, Singapore - .... 145 
 
 An Orang-Outang from Penang — the Temperance Question 146 
 
 Papuan Children I47 
 
 Kandyan Chief, or Headman ■ . . 149 
 
 A Kandyan Girl 150 
 
 Pearl Fisheries of Ceylon 151 
 
 Talipot Palm 153 
 
 Dr. Tupper and Mr. Harmon in Ceylon 154 
 
 Talipot Palm 155 
 
 Two-wheel Bullock Cart 156 
 
 Scraping Cinnamon 157 
 
 Cart in Central Ceylon 15S 
 
 Ceylonese Women and Girls on Tea Estate 159 
 
 Tea Blossom and Seed i5r 
 
 Hoeing Tea 163 
 
 Women Sifting Tea 165 
 
 Tamils, Ceylon 166 
 
 Tea Packing and Weighing 167 
 
 Low Caste Tamil Girl . . .' 16S 
 
 Mt. Lavinia Hotel, Colombo, Ceylon 169 
 
 Colombo High Caste 170 
 
 Singhalese Man 171 
 
 An Elephant March 172 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 25 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Arabi Pasha, an Exile in Ceylon 173 
 
 Singhalese Girl 174 
 
 Malay Gypsies ...... 175 
 
 Street of Madras lyg 
 
 Catamaran Fishing Boats, Madras i8o 
 
 Kative Passenger Cart, Madras i8i 
 
 Group of Toddymen, Madras 182 
 
 Devil Dancers of Madras 183 
 
 Double Bullock Raikla, Madras 184 
 
 A Thoroughfare in Calcutta 185 
 
 A Madras Belle 186 
 
 Calcutta Harbor 187 
 
 Madras Coolie 18S 
 
 Avenue of Palms, Botanical Garden, Calcutta 189 
 
 Hindu Sacrifice, Kali Ghat, Calcutta igo 
 
 Great Banyan Tree, Calcutta igi 
 
 River Front, Calcutta 102 
 
 Botanical Gardens, Calcutta 193 
 
 Bathing Ghat, Calcutta 195 
 
 Ascending the Himalayas igS 
 
 A Lepcha Man -. igg 
 
 Darjeeling Railway 200 
 
 A Lepcha Woman 201 
 
 The City in the Clouds, Darjeeling, India 202 
 
 A Rustic Scene in India — Buffalo Plowing 203 
 
 Darjeeling Bazaar Types 204 
 
 The Darjeeling Bazaar 296 
 
 Group of Bhooteas, Darjeeling 209 
 
 Dandy, Darjeeling, India 210 
 
26 ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Cart for the High Caste, India 212 
 
 Burning Ghat, Benares , 215 
 
 A Mountain Musician, India , 216 
 
 Buddhist Festival 217 
 
 Holy Man 218 
 
 Palace, Agra, India 219 
 
 Taj Mahal, Agra, India , 221 
 
 Taj Mahal, Agra, India ^ 223 
 
 Taj Mahal and Jumna River, India 225 
 
 Entrance to Palace, Delhi, India 227 
 
 The Kutub Minar, Delhi 229 
 
 Aurungzelis Mosque, Benares 231 
 
 Palace of Maharaja of Indore, Benares 233 
 
 An Indian Rustic 234 
 
 The Maharajah of Nagpur's Ghat, Benares 235 
 
 Llama With Praying Wheel 236 
 
 Dancing Girl of Jeypore, India 237 
 
 Indian Actress ...... 238 
 
 An Ornamented Woman of India 239 
 
 Oudh Exhibition and Surroundings, Ivucknow 241 
 
 The Hooseinabad Eniambara, Ivucknow 243 
 
 Specimens of Low Caste 245 
 
 High Caste Indian Woman 246 
 
 Maharajah's Palace, Jeypore 24-/ 
 
 Street Scene, Calcutta 249 
 
 Bombay Harbor 252 
 
 Silent Tower, Bombay 253 
 
 A Hindu Sacrifice 254 
 
 Mohammedans at a Religious Festival 255 
 
.ILI.USTRATIONS. 27 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Dr. Tupper iu Central India 256 
 
 The Indur Mahal from Garden, Jeypore ' . 257 
 
 Dr. Tupper Among Buddhist Ascetics, Bombay 258 
 
 Hindu Fakir Whose Arms Have Been Up for Many Years and Cannot Take Them Down . 259 
 
 Dr. Tupper at Jeypore, India 260 
 
 Buddhist Priestess 261 
 
 Dr. Tupper and Friends Sailing Up the Red Sea 264 
 
 The Port of Ismailia, on the Suez Canal 266 
 
 Street in Modern Cairo • 268 
 
 An Arab Family 270 
 
 Lower Class Woman, Cairo , 271 
 
 A Morning Ride 272 
 
 Dance Girl, Cairo 273 
 
 A Dervish 275 
 
 Dance of the Dervishes 276 
 
 Temple at Abydos 277 
 
 AVater-wheel on the Nile 279 
 
 Process of Ancient and Modern Irrigation on the Nile .... 281 
 
 Interior of Temple of Abydos 283 
 
 ■Our Nile Boat 284 
 
 Cleopatra Portrait at Denderah, on the Nile 285 
 
 The Nile's Delta 286 
 
 Alongthe Nile 287 
 
 Scene on the Arabian Desert 289 
 
 The Vocal Memnou 290 
 
 The Sakieh 291 
 
 The Nile Water Carriers 293 
 
 Karnak in Ruins 294 
 
 Statue of Rauieses ; 295 
 
28 II,I.USTRATlONS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Island of Philse 296 
 
 Interior of Temple, Edfou, Nile 297 
 
 Obelisk at Luxor 29S 
 
 Interior of Temple of Karnak 300 
 
 Hall of Columns, Karnak ' 302 
 
 The Temple of PhilEe, Nile 303 
 
 Road from Cairo to the Pyramids 306 
 
 Rameses II 307 
 
 Pyramid of Cheops 308 
 
 A Nile Belle 309, 
 
 Sphinx 310 
 
 Dame Soudall ■ 311 
 
 Cleopatra at Denderah 312 
 
 Carving at Sakkaral 313 
 
 Water Carrier, Cairo 314 
 
 Young Negress in Soudan 315 
 
 Type of the Negress 316 
 
 Syrian Bedouins 317 
 
 Negro (Soudanese) ... 318 
 
 English Camel Corps Going Up the Nile 319 
 
 Nubian on the Nile 320- 
 
 The First Cataract 321 
 
 Fenime Abarambou de Mambetou (Equateur) 322 
 
 Nile Water Carriers 323 
 
 Soudanese (Negress) 324 
 
 Egyptian Dance Girl 325 
 
 Typical Oriental Dragoman 326 
 
 Egyptian Army in Camp 327 
 
 Fellah Woman 32S 
 
II.I.USTRATIONS. 29 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Scene in the Valley of the Nile 330 
 
 Scene between Jaffa and Jerusalem 111 
 
 Jordan River ,,- 
 
 The Ancient Gateway of Samarcand, in Turkestan 336 
 
 Jerusalem Merchants ,,□ 
 
 The Centre of the Earth, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem . . . ' 340 
 
 Entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre -141 
 
 The " Wailing Place " in Jerusalem 343 
 
 Golgotha 345 
 
 The " Ecce Homo " Arch, Jerusalem 345 
 
 Church of Nativity ^ , .» 
 
 The Traditional Stone of Elijah, near Bethlehem 340 
 
 A Bethlehem Merchant 3pj 
 
 ■Gibeon, the Scene of Solomon's Sacrifice ,P4 
 
 Syrian Peasant Mother and Daughter ocy 
 
 ^Palestine Mat Weavers ........ 360 
 
 The Tomb of Joseph, near Shechem 35j 
 
 Weaving 363 
 
 Farming in Valley of Jezreel ,gg 
 
 Bird's-eye View of Nazareth ,5- 
 
 A Palestine Bedouin ,gg 
 
 The Tower of Jezreel, Palestine, as it now appears 36q 
 
 A Palestine Burden Bearer ,-j 
 
 Group Showing Costumes of Palestine at Present Day -.y, 
 
 Damascus 377 
 
 Woman Grinding Flour at Damascus . 3^3 
 
 Orphans in Camp on a Trip to the Jordan in 1897 . 381 
 
 An Encampment of Kurds in the Mountains of Asia Minor . 384 
 
 A Turkish Pasha 386 
 
30 ILIvUSTRATlONS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Sultan's Mosque 38^ 
 
 Turkish Woman 390 
 
 The Stiltan's Palace of Dolma-Bagtche, Constantinople 39^ 
 
 Peasant Village Girls of Roumania 392 
 
 A Turkish Salon at Constantinople 394 
 
 Armenian Fugitives on the Turko-Persian Border 395 
 
 Recently-made Armenian Graves in the Suburb of Van 397 
 
 Mohammedan Women , 399 
 
 Armenian School 401 
 
 Turkish Society Woman 403 
 
 A Group of Armenian Orphan Boys of Cesarea and Tabas 405 
 
 An Armenian Home 408 
 
 Decorated by the Sultan 410 
 
 A Typical Turkish Dwelling of the Poorer Class 412 
 
 An Ancient Eastern Church, now Desecrated 414 
 
 Armenians Held Prisoners After the Trebizond Massacre .416 
 
 Women and Children Waiting the Daily Distribution of Food 418 
 
 American Mission at Oorfa 420 
 
 Port for Athens 422 
 
 View of Athens 4^4 
 
 Athenian Excavations 426 
 
 Schliemann's Excavations, Old Troy (2S 
 
 Historic Troy 429 
 
 A Classic Head, Athens .... 430 
 
 Belle of Athens 47 j 
 
 A Modern Greek Maid 4,3 
 
 A Modern Greek 434 
 
 Prison of Socrates, Athens 435 
 
 Acropolis, Athens 436 
 
IIvLUSTRATION 31 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 City of Naples, with Mt. Vesuvius in the Background 437 
 
 Grecian Cadet 430 
 
 Soldier of Athens 440 
 
 Athenian Street Merchant 442 
 
 Priest of the Greek Church 444 
 
 General View of Rome 446 
 
 St. Peter's and the Vatican, Rome 447 
 
 Interior of the Chapel on the Spot Where St. Peter was Crucified 448 
 
 Altar to the Unknown God 440 
 
 The Vatican, Rome 4^1 
 
 Excavations of the Forum, Italy 453 
 
 The Coliseum, Rome 454 
 
 Temple of Minerva, Rome 456 
 
 Panorama of Genoa 450 
 
 Columbus Monument, Genoa _ 46J 
 
 Gibraltar 463 
 
^^^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 !2^ 
 
 roiiDd the World 
 
 WITH 
 
 Eyes Wide Open 
 
 ^^<^ 
 
 ^-ps^^ 
 
 (32) 
 
j^round the world ^ 
 With Eyes Wide Open. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 ACROSS A CONTINENT AND AN OCEAN. 
 
 CROSS the continent in five daj'S and 
 nights, crossing eleven States and 
 covering 3400 miles! Every im- 
 aginable panorama passes before 
 the eye during this trip from the Atlantic 
 to the Pacific — the cultivated fields, the 
 quiet hamlets, the crowded cities, the 
 homes of cliff-dwellers, the rushing 
 rivers, the snow-blanketed mountains, 
 and the sparkling bay opening into the 
 great sea. West of Chicago, until we 
 reach the ocean, Denver attracts the at- 
 tention of the tourist more than any 
 other city. Like white-plumaged sen- 
 tinels, the snow capped peaks stand 
 guard over this pride of the West. 
 The Denver Carnival. 
 Fortunately we happened in her streets 
 while the brilliant "Carnival and Festival of 
 Mountain and Plain " was in full blast. The 
 city was bedecked in yellow and white (gold 
 and silver), the procession, composed of symbolic floats, moved through the 
 streets, United States troops, cowboys, city officials, Indians, members of local 
 and national orders, school and college youths fell into line, and, under the 
 thrill of stirring music from string and brass bands, every one caught the spirit of 
 the festival, which is intended to lift the shadows and rift the clouds of financial 
 depression that have cast gloom over the State of Colorado for the last years. 
 
 Two hundred and seventy miles from Denver, at an elevation of 10,200 feet, 
 -we reach the unique city of I,eadville, one of the richest placer camps in Colorado, 
 3 (33) 
 
 DR. H. ALLEN TUPPER, JS. 
 
34 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 known to fame in 1859 as California Giach, where $5,000,000 in gold were worked 
 out during five years. As we dash out of this picturesque State we are reminded 
 of the exclamation of Joaquin Miller: "Colorado, rare Colorado! Yonder she 
 rests; her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky Mountains, her feet in the brown 
 
 PIKE'S PEAK FROM COLORADO SPRINGS. 
 
 grass; the boundless plains for a playground; she is set on a hill before the world, 
 and the air is very clear, so that all may .see her well." 
 
 The Garden of the Gods. 
 
 The ride from Denver to San Francisco can never be forgotten by the lover 
 of the beautiful in nature. The wonderland of the Rocky Mountains opens, hour 
 by hour before him, the most enchanting scenes. In the Garden of the Gods are 
 seen vivid suggestions of Athens and the Parthenon, Palmyra and the Pyramids, 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 35 
 
 Thebes and her crumbliug columns. While riding upon a plateau of over 10,000 
 feet above the sea you look from your car window and there, standing outlined 
 against the clear azure background, gigantic portals rise hundreds of feet above you 
 and flash with the bright splendor of carnelian. The obliging conductor points 
 out "Statue of Uberty," "Cathedral Spire," " Dolphin," a "Bear and Seal; " 
 
 WITHIN THE GATES, GARDEN OF THE GODS. 
 
 but these names seem quite inadequate to express your inexpressible admiration of 
 the marvelous forms which nature assumes in these mountainous contortions. 
 
 The Cheyenne Mountain. 
 
 As we pass near the Cheyenne canyon, the scene changes. Down the side of 
 the gorge leaps and foams a series of cascades — seven falls pouring the water from 
 
36 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 the melted snow above in the echoing chasm beneath. It will be remembered that 
 
 on the eastern slope of the Che5'enne Mountain was the grave of that sweet 
 
 ~ '~~ • '■ '' American poetess, 
 
 Helen Hunt Jackson 
 ("H. H."), whose 
 rhymes have covered 
 these barren slopes 
 with fadeless verdure. 
 Sierra Blanca is 
 the giant of the Rock- 
 ies, and is the loftiest 
 mountain, with one 
 exception, in the 
 United States. It is 
 a triple peak and 
 springs from the val- 
 ley 14,469 feet — over 
 two miles and three- 
 fifths of ascent. As 
 you watch the varied 
 beauties of ' ' Wagon 
 Wheel Gap ' ' the train 
 plunges into the black- 
 ness of Toltec Tun- 
 nel, which pierces the 
 summit instead of the 
 base of the mountain. 
 When j'ou emerge 
 from the tunnel a 
 thrilling sight greets 
 your eye. From a 
 trestle-bridge you look 
 into a tremendous 
 gorge, whose sides are 
 splintered rocks and 
 huge crags and bould- 
 ers; below are the 
 'mountain of the cross," C01.ORAD0. white waters of a 
 
 foaming torrent, above the deep-blue sky; and on either side the majesty and 
 mystery of the mountains. 
 
 THE 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 37 
 
 Space forbids me to speak of the homes of the cliff-dwellers in picturesque 
 ruins, or to dwell upon the wonders of Royal Gorge, Fremont Pass, the Black 
 Canyon, Marshall Pass and Castle Gate. 
 
 The Holy Cross. 
 
 But the Mountain of the Holy Cross cannot be passed unnoticed. From 
 the crest of Tennessee Pass, many miles away, you can plainly distinguish 
 the snow-white emblem of the Christian faith gleaming with bright splendor 
 against the sky. The cross is formed by canyons of immense depths riven 
 down and across the summit of the mountain. Eternal snow fills these canyons, and 
 this ' ' sign set in the heavens " is a silent sermon of the greatest fact of all the ages. 
 
 THE EAST SIDE OF EAST TEMPI,E STREET, SALT I<AKE CITY. 
 
 Our new sister, Utah, contains one of the most mysterious inland seas on the 
 globe. The lake's surface is higher than the Alleghenies, and its dead, tideless 
 waters remain an unsolved enigma. One cannot sink on account of the density of 
 the water, which contains 22 per cent solid matter, or 16^ salt — greater than the 
 Dead Sea of the Holy Land. In the early morning we leave the train, and, 
 sailing over the beautiful San Francisco Bay, we reach the city of the Golden 
 Gate, situated at the north end of a peninsula thirty miles long, separating the 
 Pacific Ocean from the bay. 
 
 At the Golden Gate. 
 
 San Francisco is pre-eminently a cosmopolitan city. Its buildings display 
 every style of architecture and its population is composed of every nationality. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 39 
 
 Yesterday morning was spent in studying the magnificent apartments of several 
 of the palaces of millionaires on California street, and last night was largely 
 occupied by me in the opium dens and narrow alleys of ' ' Chinatown, ' ' where 
 25,000 of these sons of the " Celestial Kingdom " swarm in filth and degradation. 
 Two such localities, so near together, cannot be found perhaps on the globe. 
 
 Sutro Heights, overlooking the Seal rocks, where thousands of these queer 
 animals perform their fantastic capers and fill the air with their ceaseless barking; 
 the Golden Gate Park, where the grounds and flora remind one of the tales of fairy- 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO AND THE GOLBEN GATE. 
 
 land, and the delightful drive^, stretching along the waters where the bay rolls 
 through the Golden Gates into the great Pacific — these are a few of the features 
 that give fame to this city. 
 
 If San Francisco does not become one of the great cities of the world, the 
 cause will be found in her failure to take advantage of the many natural blessings 
 that Providence has lain at her door. The word winter cannot well apply to any 
 of her twelve months; in front of her is a land-locked sheet of water some fiftj' 
 miles long and of varying width opening to the sea, while she nestles in the 
 
40 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 central edge of a rich agricultural province; and at the doorstep is the terminal 
 point of the great trans-continental routes. On the beautiful bay may be seen 
 crafts of every kind from the tiny rowboat to the monster ocean steamer; and 
 fringing the entire water front is a forest of masts. 
 
 The magnificent steamer, China, was trembling in her moorings, as we crossed 
 the gangway on a beautiful October morning; and a few hours later we passed 
 through the Golden Gate, due West. Our steamer contained .a world in itself. 
 The hundreds of passengers represented every class in society, from the charming, 
 aristocratic bride to the wretched, sickly-looking Chinese steerage passenger on 
 his way home to die. In the stern of the ship, we noticed queer-shaped boxes in 
 great piles; and it was learned that these were Chinese cofiins, containing the 
 bones and dust of members of the Celestial Kingdom, whose last resting-place must 
 be their loved land. 
 
 The days were full of sunshine, the nighte full of stars, and the ocean quite 
 pacific, during the first week of our journey; and on the eighth day we caught 
 a glimpse of the Hawaiian Islands; soon the white houses of Honolulu were 
 in sight; and in the twilight of the evening we were anchored in the handsome 
 harbor facing the Paradise of the Pacific. 
 
 The Hawaiian group consists of five principal islands: Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, 
 Molokai and Ranai, located about 2000 miles from San Francisco in the Northern 
 Pacific Ocean, between the ninteenth and twenty -third parallels of latitude. As 
 our steamer approaches Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, the seat of the Hawaiian 
 government, the picturesque Diamond Head is seen outlined against the sky. 
 This headland is an extinct volcano, whose fires in years past lit the sea far in 
 the distance, acting as nature's lighthouse to warn the passing mariner. Passing 
 this verdureless dome as we move toward the harbor, groves of cocoanut trees, 
 stately palms, graceful ferns and every variety of tropical plants greet the eye; 
 and looking upon this "Paradise of the Pacific," you can excuse Mr. Samuel L. 
 Clemens for his enthusiastic reminiscence: "I can see its garlanded crags, its 
 leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits 
 floating like islands about the cloud racks. I can feel the spirit of its woodland 
 solitudes ; I can hear the gurgle of its brooks ; and in my nostrils still lives the 
 breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago." My friend of years, Mr. 
 Willis, the distinguished United States ministef to the islands, gave us an 
 old-fashioned Kentucky welcome, and through his courtesy our visit was 
 made most instructive and delightful. 
 
 A Charming Panorama. 
 
 From Punchbowl Hill, an extinct crater, rising in the rear of the capital 
 city, a very fine view is taken of the surrounding land and water. The old 
 
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 M 
 
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42 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 lolani Palace, the government buildings, the statue of Kamehanieha I. in full 
 war costume of a Hawaiian chief, the Hawaiian opera house, the barracks, the 
 royal palm avenue leading to the Queen's hospital, the winding Pearl River, the 
 wide-spreading rice and sugar plantations and the sloping beach, glistening under 
 the tropical sun, attract attention and present a charming panorama. One of the 
 most attractive drives around Honolulu takes us up a gradual ascent from the 
 sea to a height of 1200 feet and brings us to the noted Pali. Here we visit the 
 royal mausoleum, the last resting place of th^ Hawaiian royalty. The spot upon 
 which we stand is historically very interesting. 
 
 Historical Scenes. 
 
 Here Kalamikupouli, the chief of the island, made his last stand against 
 Kamehameha I., who conquered and consolidated the islands during the last 
 century. The decisive battle was waged in May, 1795, and at the bottom of a 
 great precipice the guide insists that there can be found the skulls and bones of 
 many of the warriors who Were driven to death in their struggle for independ- 
 ence. At Kaawaloa, on the island of Hawaii (the largest of the group), is the 
 place where the brave Captain Cook fell. A plain obelisk of concrete, standing 
 in a small enclosure surrounded by chains and old cannon, has been erected to 
 his memory. The following is the inscription : 
 
 "In memory of the great circumnavigator, Captain James Cook, R. N., who 
 discovered these Islands on the i8th of January, A. D, 1778, and fell near this 
 spot on the 14th of February, A. D, 1779, this monument was erected by some 
 of his fellow-countrymen. ' ' 
 
 Volcanic Forces. 
 
 Even a casual study of Hawaii causes you to realize its igneous origin. 
 Every part of the island bears the Plutonic mark, and it is readily seen that it 
 has been raised ridge by ridge and mountain by mountain up to Alpine heights 
 by volcanic forces that are still in operation. Here is found Kilauea, the largest 
 active volcano in the world, and the Hale-man-man, or House of Everlasting 
 Fire of the Hawaiian mythology, is one of the marvels of the universe. As its 
 brink is approached one can easily sympathize with the emotional description of 
 a noted writer: "I think we all screamed, I know we all wept, but we were 
 speechless, for a new glory and terror had been added to the earth. It is the 
 most unutterable of wonderful things. The words of common speech are quite 
 useless. Here was the real 'bottomless pit,' the 'fire which is not quenched,' 
 the fiery sea whose waves are never weary. There were groanings, rumblings 
 and detonations, rushings, hissings and splashings, and the crushing sound of 
 breakers on the coast, but it was the surging of fiery waves upon a fiery shore." 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 43 
 
 The pit is nine miles in circumference; its lowest area covers six square miles, 
 and the depth of the crater varies from eight hundred to eleven hundred feet, 
 according as the molten sea is at flood or ebb. 
 
 The Leper Colony. 
 
 The neighboring island of Molokai is noted chiefly as the place of the leper 
 settlement. We did not insist upon visiting this home of the living dead, but 
 
 from the distance the 
 
 village presented a 
 pretty appearance, 
 with its pure white 
 cottages dotting the 
 green plain, and the 
 spires of several 
 churches and the more 
 imposing public build- 
 ings gave the impres- 
 sion of a peaceful, 
 happy community. 
 The place selected for 
 the centralization of 
 this dread disease is 
 a plain of 20,000 
 acres, hemmed in by 
 the sea and walls of 
 rock, varying from 
 1000 to 2500 feet in 
 height. The lepers 
 are confined within 
 the boundaries of the 
 island, but those 
 whose condition al- 
 lows them to live out- 
 side of the hospital 
 mingle freely among 
 themselves, and de- 
 .spite their dreadful and incurable malady, seem, I am told, to get some sweetness 
 out of their bitter cup of life. 
 
 Itwasinthe year 1865 that the Hawaiian Legislature established this leper 
 settlement on the island of Molokai. When the official announcement was made 
 
 HAWAIIAN GIRI.S IN FLORAL GARLANDS. 
 
44 AROUND THE WORIyD 
 
 that the isolation of lepers must take place the natives hid their leprous relatives 
 and friends under mats, in forests and caves, and as late as 1873 it was estimated 
 that over four hundred of these unfortunates, with glazed eyes, bloated faces and 
 decayed limbs, were still living among the people of the islands. No one can 
 dwell upon this home of hideous disease and slow-coming death without being 
 thrilled by the self-forgetful devotion of Father Damiens, the heroic Belgian 
 priest, who, following the example of his divine Master, laid down his life for 
 the suffering and has received the everlasting crown worn by the noble army of 
 martyrs. 
 
 The Hawaiian Tongue. 
 
 I was quite fortunate in forming the acquaintance of an intelligent New 
 Yorker whose long residence on the islands and whose active, mercantile life 
 enabled him to give me information on numerous subjects of interest. From 
 what he tells me I imagine that the language is not very difficult to master. 
 Although there are only twelve letters, some of these are made to perform double 
 duty, as K is also T, and 1, is also R. Each word, and indeed each syllable, 
 ends with a vowel, and you hear nothing of ihe harsh explosive and sibilant 
 consonants. These vowels as they glide from the Hawaiian tongue call to mind 
 the soft Italian pronunciation, and the effect is most harmonious and delightful. 
 The names of places are frequently compounded with wai, water, and are quite 
 musical. Wailuku, "water of destruction;" Waioli, "singing water;" Waipio, 
 "vanquished water." The natives have no surnames, and a man may have one 
 name and his wife and children may be called by anything else. 
 
 Commerce and Industries. 
 
 Finding that my new-made friend was inclined to be communicative, I ven- 
 tured to ask him three leading questions, namely : What is the commercial outlook 
 of the islands? What is the political outlook of the islands? What about the 
 decrease of the native Hawaiians? He insists that every day the business pros- 
 pect of the islands is brightening and no time since his residence among the 
 Hawaiians has he witnessed such a general but gradual revival in mercantile life. 
 Added to the sugar and rice staples, there is, just now, a decided inclination 
 toward the growth of coffee, and he thinks in the near future a certain portion of 
 the islands will be as famous in the raising of this product as it has been in the 
 culture of sugar and rice. 
 
 Political Situation. 
 
 At the reception given by President Dole, who by the way is the son of an 
 American missionary, we were enabled to form a conception of the personnel of the 
 present administration of the Hawaiiaii Islands. The president and his assistants 
 
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 At 
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 3 
 
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 (45) 
 
46 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 are substantial, conservative gentlemen ; and while they must know that the exist- 
 ing government is only temporary, they are attempting practical and permanent 
 improvements. It does not take a prophet or the son of a prophet to foresee that 
 ere long the Stars and Stripes will be floating over these islands. Indeed, formal 
 steps have been taken by our government looking to this end. In transmitting the 
 Treaty of Annexation to the Senate President McKinley uses these words: "The 
 incorporation of the Hawaiian Islands into the body politic of the United States is 
 
 A HAWAIIAN GRASS HUT AND ITS OCCUPANTS. 
 
 the necessary ^nd fitting sequel to the chain of events which from a verj- early period 
 of our history has controlled the intercourse and prescribed the association of the 
 United States and the Hawaiian Islands." The Treaty presented to the Senate 
 is a remarkable document. The Republic of Hawaii cedes absolutely to the 
 United States all rights of sovereignty over the Hawaiian Islands and their 
 dependencies, including all lands, ports, harbors, buildings, military equipments; 
 it provides that special land laws relative to Hawaii are to be enacted by the 
 American Congress; revenue from the sale of Hawaiian lands, excepting that 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 47 
 
 which is to be used for governmental purposes, is to be expended for educational 
 purposes in Hawaii; complete civil, judicial and military control shall be exer- 
 cised by the United States; the public debt of Hawaii, which is not to exceed 
 $4,000,000, is to be assumed by the United States; and the President is to 
 appoint five commissioners, two being native Hawaiians, to consider and recom- 
 mend to Congress necessary legislation for the new territory. The Japanese 
 Minister at Washington, representing his government, filed a formal protest 
 against annexation, on the ground that this measure would work injustice to 
 Japanese interests and claims on these islands; and England has shown some 
 interest in the matter; but it is thought that any international complications 
 arising from the ownership of these lovely islands by the United States will be 
 adjusted satisfactorily. 
 
 Aboriginal Population. 
 
 The decrease of the Hawaiians is as pathetic as it is inevitable. For years 
 the native stock has been dying out, and to-day, while there are nearly one 
 hundred thousand persons on the islands, there are not more than forty thousand 
 pure descendants of the aborigines. The intermarrying of the whites and the 
 half-whites and the Chinese and natives is constantly going on, and the com- 
 plexion and general characteristics of those whom you meet on the streets^ tell 
 the tale of this amalgamation. 
 
 Our noble steamer, after taking on board five hundred more Chinese steerage 
 passengers at Honolulu, turns her bow toward the l,and of the Rising Sun ; and as 
 she glides through the placid blue waters of the Pacific, the flower and fruit-covered 
 plains are lost to our view, and from far out at sea the peaks of Oahu can be seen 
 through our marine glass, pointing their spires toward a sky that bends brightly 
 over this gem of the ocean. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 LAND OF THE SUNRISE. 
 
 we sailed due West over the Pacific one hour was lost in each 
 thousand miles of progress, and when we reached the half- 
 way point around the world from Greenwich (i8o°) a day 
 was dropped in mid-ocean. In passing from November 2 to 
 November 4, or from Saturday to Monday, was quite a new 
 experience. An officer on board tells me that he spent 
 two Christmases last year while coming from Japan to San 
 Francisco, and a fellow-passenger had the unique experience 
 of having two birthdays during his voyage in the same direction. In coming 
 my direction one stands the chance of having no Christmas and no birthday. 
 
 Yeddo Bay and Yokohama. 
 
 Early on the morning of November 10 I looked from my port window upon 
 the beautiful Yeddo Bay, and as we crept slowly into the harbor of Yokohama a 
 welcome sight greeted our eyes after nearly three weeks at sea. Hundreds of 
 Japanese sloops and sampans darted in and out among the American, English, 
 French, Russian and Japanese ships; men-of-war belonging to the five leading 
 nations of the world were anchored near at hand; the low-roofed houses of Yoko- 
 hama lay to our left, and before us loomed up the snow-capped and sunlit Fuji- 
 yama. Our steamer anchored half a mile off shore and from a small steam tug 
 we soon stepped on the I,and of the Sunrise. 
 
 In the year 1854, when Commodore Perry reached Yokohama with his little 
 fleet of men-of-war, it was only a small fishing village, but now it has a popula- 
 tion of 170,000. The native and business part of the city is backed by a half 
 moon of well-wooded hills, where the foreign concession is located and where 
 handsome houses, in European style, are built on what is known as the Bluff. 
 
 Strange Street Scenes. 
 
 As we dash through the city in a jinrikasha new scenes open before us at 
 every turn of the narrow streets. Men drawing vehicles like horses between the 
 shafts; the half-nude coolies carrying heavy loads of merchandise, swung from 
 their shoulders upon stout bamboo poles; the simple architecture of the dwelling- 
 houses; the extremely deliberate and solemn salutations between the common 
 
 (48) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 49 
 
 people who meet on the streets; fantastic trading-booths and the brilliant display 
 of toys and trinkets that fill them; the happy children flying kites, in the shape 
 of hideous faces; the absence of beggars on the streets (quite a contrast to Euro- 
 pean and many American cities), and the general appearance of thrift, cleanliness 
 and contentment that presented itself, made impressions rather pleasing than 
 otherwise. The women carry 
 their children lashed to their 
 backs like the American In- 
 dians, and the exposure of the 
 tender eyes to the sunlight 
 may account, partly, for the 
 numerous cases of sore eyes 
 and blindness in Japan. 
 
 A Yokio Chrysanthemum Show. 
 
 The winter sleep of the 
 flowers is very short, and al- 
 though we are writing in No- 
 vember I can walk in a gar- 
 den ten yards from my room 
 and gather a bouquet of flow- 
 ers that would astonish any 
 florist in Florida or California. 
 
 During this month the 
 chrysanthemum is in all of 
 its glory. I spent several 
 hours at the chrysanthemum 
 show in Tokio; and, doubt- 
 less, in all the world it would 
 be impossible towitness 
 another such exhibition of 
 this particular flower. Dra- 
 matic and comical perform- 
 ances, war scenes, historical 
 epochs and landscapes are set 
 forth by these flowers, woven 
 
 into designs, and the effect is remarkably fine. As might have been expected, 
 the victorious battles in the China-Japanese war were favorite subjects, and in 
 every instance 'a single Japanese was putting to flight a half a dozen members of 
 the Celestial Empire. In one blodd-thirsty scene the sweet flower was made to 
 4 
 
 LABORER OF THE COOI.EY CLASS. 
 
50 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 depict a Japanese warrior holding a Ciiinaman's pigtail in one hand, while with 
 the other he was about to behead him. In the Yokohama nursery I visited 
 packing-rooms containing forty thousand cases of bulbs of different plants to be 
 shipped to Europe and America. 
 
 In Fairyland. 
 
 A ride in a j inrikasha through the country gives one a great pleasure. Every - 
 thing seems delicate, diminutive and fairy-like. The small rice and teafields, 
 
 GAMULING IN JAPAN. 
 
 the tiny plots of ground around the low -thatched houses and the groves of dwarfed 
 trees seem to correspond fittingly with the little people of this"L,and of the Sun- 
 rise." As just now they are attracting the attention of the civilized world and 
 as they are destined to become a potent factor in the future history of the Orient, 
 it may be well to give a brief synopsis of their history and a glimpse into their 
 social life. 
 
 The history of Japan naturally falls into four great periods. The first three 
 ■comprise the history of Old Japan and the last one that of New Japan. Four 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 51 
 
 great waves of foreign influence have swept over the country. The first two 
 oriental, the last two occidental in character. During the first period (660 B. C- 
 700 A. D. ) emperors held supreme political and spiritual power. 
 
 Introduction of Buddhism. 
 
 Two important events mark this period. In the year 286 A. D. Chinese 
 literature, art and science and Confucius philosophy were introduced. In the 
 year 558 A. D. Buddhism was first proclaimed. It required a thousand years for 
 
 BUDDHIST TEMPLE, NIKKO, JAPAN. 
 
 this system to become firmly established, but its victory was finally complete. It 
 had transformed the nation. In the words of Professor Chamberlain, "Bud- 
 dhism introduced art, science, medicine, moulded the folk lore, created dramatic 
 poetry and greatly influenced every department of social and intellectual life. 
 In a word, Buddhism was the tutor under whose instruction the Japanese 
 grew up. ' ' 
 
 It reached its golden age in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, when it 
 embraced the mass of the people and the land was filled with splendid temples 
 and monasteries. 
 
52 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The second period (700 A. D.-iioo A. D. ) is marked by the rise of the 
 Fujiwara family. This was a literary family, which had gradually gained 
 supreme power over the nation. From this time one family after another held 
 political power, and the Emperor was merelj' the nominal head of the nation until 
 the restoration cf 1867. 
 
 Rise of the Military Power. '' 
 
 During the third period (iioo A. D.-1853), in 1141, Yoritomo Minamoto 
 consolidated the feudal system and became the first Shogun or Tycoon. The life 
 of this great man marks a brilliant period in Japanese histor)-. 
 
 INTERIOR BUDDHIST TEMPI,E, JAPAN. 
 
 In the year 1549 Catholic mission work was introduced by Francis Xavier,. 
 bringing in the first wave of influeiice from the Occident. In the latter part of 
 the sixteenth century three influential characters arose, each by his lifework to. 
 leave a lasting impression upon the history of the nation. Ota Nobunaga laid 
 plans for the consolidation of the whole of Japan under one ruler, for up to this 
 time the conquest of Japan had only been partial, but just on the eve of the: 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 53 
 
 accomplishment of his purposes he was slain. Hideyosh, a great warrior and 
 statesman, carried to completion the work so well begun, but a greater than he 
 was to enjoy the full fruit of his labors. Tokugawa lyeyasu, the^greatest man in 
 Japanese history, was the first to rule over the entire empire. He founded the 
 City of Tokio, making it the capital of the Shogunate, framed many wise laws 
 and fostered art, science and literature. Under him ■ the feudal system reached 
 the zenith of its glory and power. The one blot upon his fame was the persecu- 
 tion of Catholics, the expulsion of foreigners and the closing of the country to 
 
 MUSIC IN The home, JAPATq-. 
 
 the outside world. His death, in 1616, closed this important period as far as 
 any great event of any national importance is concerned. 
 
 The fourth period of Japan's history (1858-1895) is contemporaneous with 
 the force wave of foreign influence. It is marked by the coming of Perry, the 
 destruction of the feudal system, the restoration of the Emperor and the ascen- 
 sion to the throne of the present Emperor, Mitsuhito, in 1867. Protestant mis- 
 sions began in 1859 and the first church was formed in 1872. The transformation 
 of the country is remarkable and every year witnesses new evidences of pro- 
 gressive life. 
 
54 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Japanese Social Life. 
 
 One of the first lessons that is taught a Japanese girl is that she is inferior 
 to a boy, and this early lesson is impressed ceaselessly upon her during her life. 
 
 The boy calls his sis- 
 ter by her name, but 
 she must call him 
 "Ani San" (dear 
 brother), being a less 
 familiar term than his 
 name. Quite com- 
 monly the brother 
 eats with the father, 
 and after waiting on 
 them she eats with 
 her mother. It is 
 commonly understood 
 that it is not the 
 proper thing for a girl 
 to plaj' even with her 
 brother after she is 
 ten years old, and thus 
 a wall separates the 
 sexes in the same 
 family. 
 
 Courting is aa 
 unknown science in 
 Japan. The "Nako- 
 do," or go-between, is 
 not only a match 
 maker, but arranges 
 all the preliminary 
 details to the hour of 
 marriage. A father 
 conies to the conclu- 
 sion that it is time 
 that his daughter 
 should marry. Without speaking with her on the subject, he consults a friend, 
 and arrangements are made to find a suitable life partner for her. Now the "go- 
 between' ' takes the whole matter in hand, and, as he expects to be well paid for his- 
 trouble finally, he becomes a very busy person indeed. This official, with the 
 
 HAIR ARRANGED BY UNMARRIED WOMAN, JAPAN. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 consent of the fathers of the intended groom and bride, may arrange for a raiyai 
 (look-at-each-other meeting) before the marriage, but frequently the young 
 people never see each other until the moment of marriage. But after the union 
 this important char- 
 acter, whose services 
 we have explained, 
 has not ceased his du- 
 ties. If, unfortu- 
 nately, there should 
 occur such an uncom- 
 mon thing as a family 
 quarrel the go-be- 
 tween is called in and 
 brings about a final 
 settlement by putting 
 them on good terms 
 or arranges for a per- 
 manent separation. 
 
 When a woman 
 is married two solemn 
 duties immediately 
 are laid upon her. In 
 certain parts of Japan 
 she must shave oil her 
 eyebrows and blacken 
 her teeth. Bj' these 
 beautiful perform- 
 ances she brands her- 
 self with the informa- 
 tion, "I am a married 
 woman. Take care 
 not to fall in love with 
 me." The arrange- 
 ment of the hair also 
 indicates whether a 
 
 woman is married or 
 
 . , T. • ,. FOUR Japanese; I.ADIES. 
 
 unmarried. It is the 
 
 duty of the mother to give parting instructions to her daughter as she enters 
 
 into this slavery of marriage. This is done by impressing upon her the following 
 
 rules of conduct: (i) When you marry you are legally my daughter no longer. 
 
56 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 so give the same perfect obedience to your father-in-law and mother-in-law that 
 you have given to your father and mother. (2) When you are married you have 
 no other lord than your husband. Be humble, be polite. Perfect obedience to 
 
 the husband is a 
 noble virtue for the 
 wife. (3) Be kind 
 always to your moth- 
 er-in-law and sister- 
 in-law. (4) Don't be 
 jealous. That is not 
 the way to win your 
 husband's affections. 
 (5) Even where there 
 is injustice on the hus- 
 band's part do not be 
 angry. Be patient, 
 and when he is quiet, 
 then advise with 
 him. (6) Don't talk 
 much. Don't tell 
 another person mis- 
 chief. Don't in any 
 case tell a lie. (7) Get 
 up early, staj' up late 
 at night and do not 
 take a nap in the da3'- 
 time. Don't drink 
 much wine, and do not 
 go into a crowd until 
 you are fifty-one years 
 old. (8) Do not ask a 
 fortune-teller what 
 your future destiny 
 will be. (g) Be a 
 good housekeeper ; be 
 economical in everj-- 
 
 JAPANESH BEIXE.S. thing. (lo) ThoUgh 
 
 you are married young, do not associate with young men, even if they are rela- 
 tives. (11) Don't wear a gay dress ; be clean always. (12) Don '.t be proud of 
 your father's prosperity or position ; do not boast of them before your husband's 
 
 1 
 
 
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 ■ 
 
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 ^^^^^H "* ^"^^^^^H^^^^^^H^^B^^B 
 
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 WKKSBKLsst' w^^Bti 
 
 Hi 
 
 hHIHHh 
 
 *.:■ 
 
 
 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 57 
 
 relatives. (13) Be careful how you treat the men-servants or maid-servants. 
 The bride vows that she will keep all of these rules, and if she fails to do so, she 
 has become false to her marriage vows. The wedding ceremony takes place in 
 the home of the bridegroom, where the largest room is decorated for the occasion. 
 The bride, in her long-sleeved and elaborately made furisode, and the groom, with 
 his silk kaihishimo, accompanied by a small bridal party, take their seats in the 
 bridal rooik. A table is placed in front of the bride, and upon it are three- 
 sized cups filled with "sake" or Japanese wine. The bride takes three sips 
 
 WEDDING PROCESSION, JAPAN. 
 
 from each, and at her invitation the groom does the same. This indicates that 
 they will share each other's joys and sorrows, and after the announcement of the 
 marriage by the "go-between" to the parents the ceremony is completed. 
 
 As a rule the completion of this form is the beginning of a life for the poor 
 little woman that has for her very few rays of sunshine. She is the mistress 
 rather than the queen of the home, and her chief care is to look after the comfort 
 and pleasure of the man, who too often is cruel and overbearing. 
 
5« 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Causes for Divorce. 
 
 There are seven recognized causes for divorce in Japan:, (i) Disobedience; 
 {2) no child; (3) adultery ; (4) jealousj' ; (5) loathsome disease; (6) talking too 
 much; (7) stealing. Indeed, the husband for the most trivial cause can secure a 
 separation from his wife. No court is needed. The ever-ready "go-between" 
 is told of his desires, and, with more speed than he arranged the union, this 
 all-important personage brings about the disunion. The first boy is often called 
 "Ichiro," meaning "first one;" the next "Niro," "second one;" the third 
 
 "Saburo," and so on, 
 according to their 
 numbers. The girls 
 are generally given 
 fanciful names, such 
 as "Flower," "Glo- 
 ry" and the like. If 
 their lives were as 
 bright and beautiful 
 as their names, the 
 Japanese home life 
 would be a charm in- 
 stead of a curse, as 
 too often it is. 
 
 Japanese Society. 
 
 Japanese society 
 is divided into three 
 classes — ^the nobilitj% 
 gentry and common 
 people. The latter 
 class constitute nine- 
 ty-five per cent of the 
 entire population. We 
 find nothing like the 
 "caste" feeling that 
 exists in India domi- 
 nant in Japan, and 
 although divisions are 
 recognized thej' are 
 more flexible indeed 
 JAPANESE GiRW CARRYING BABIES. than iu England. 
 
 ^^^^^^Bf-^M'' ' 
 
 y 
 
 1 
 
 'T iHiiyiiiilMiitfiiHBHr' t^ ^ 
 
 \ 
 
 : .:: i 
 
 • ' *'*l5i^^aH 
 
 : 
 
 ^-■^ ■■■'. (:■■■: 
 
 f^mi. 
 
 -1 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 k" -' 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 I^B^^^^^P^- 
 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 59 
 
 Nothing has developed more quickly than the educational life of this people. 
 During the middle ages education was entirely in the hands of Buddhist priests 
 and the temples were the schools for the people. When the Tokugawa family 
 came into power and for over two hundred and fifty years (A. D. 1603-1867) the 
 educated classes came under the influence of Confucianism, and the "four books" 
 and "five canons, ' ' composing the Confucian classics, became the literary and edu- 
 cational basis of the people. These were studied as thoroughly as in China itself. 
 
 Education. 
 
 Since the revolution of 1868 an entirely new state of affairs has existed, and 
 the reform has been carried on largely under American influences. It would 
 
 AT SCHOOL, JAPAN. 
 
 surprise one who has not kept abreast of the educational progress of Japan to 
 visit the Imperial University at Tokio and note its complete appointments. 
 There are six distinct faculties, namely, law, literature, science, engineering, 
 medicine and agriculture; and more than one thousand students were at the 
 university, according to the last catalogue that is before me. The normal 
 schools, commercial school, technical school, noblees' school, naval and military 
 academies, musical academy, fine art school, blind and dumb school and five 
 higher middle schools were founded and are supported by the government. 
 
6o 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 The desire is quite manifest in all of these educational improvements to 
 assimilate the national thought to that of Western nations. It was my pleasure 
 to address, through an interpreter, a school of young men in Tokio this week on 
 
 the "Need of Edu- 
 cated Men in Japan," 
 and during the ad- 
 dress it was gratifying 
 to mark the intelligent 
 attention given to the 
 words spoken and the 
 seemingly hearty ap- 
 proval of certain 
 American methods of 
 education that were 
 urged for adoption. 
 The Japanese as a stu- 
 dent is differential, 
 industrious, and es- 
 pecially quick to ab- 
 sorb new ideas. He is 
 naturally self-confi- 
 dent, and consequently 
 self-conceited; but 
 this, let it be hoped, 
 will pass away when 
 more progress has 
 been made b5' him. 
 His artistic percep- 
 tions are remarkable. 
 
 National Art. 
 
 In the fifteenth 
 century Italian paint- 
 ing was at its zenith 
 and Japanese art en- 
 tered upon its most 
 glorious period, but 
 we have no facts to prove that there was any influence of the one on the other. 
 The founder of the first school of Japanese art was a Buddhist priest, and not 
 seldom since have these representatives of the popular religion been found fostering 
 
 JAPANESE ACTRESS. 
 
62 AR-OL5.ND THE WORI.D 
 
 and encouraging, in many ways, the artistic in different directions. The bold 
 dash that is observed in all Japanese paintings is due probably to the national 
 habit of writing and drawing from the elbow, not from the wrist. The laws of 
 perspecti'.'e and of light and shadow are disregarded to an alarming extent, 
 although the main study in the picture may be exact and faultless in detail. The 
 Japanese artist will give you a tree which is excellent in every detail, but he 
 will accompany it by certain atmospheric and topographical peculiarities which 
 defy the wildest and most eccentric imagination. He does not believe that 
 
 yAPANBSE CARRIAGE. 
 
 mechanical symmetry makes for beauty, and, to some extent, he has revolution- 
 ized art by teaching the artistic world the charm of irregularity. 
 
 Its Eccentricities. 
 
 In the decorative art the Japanese may be said to lead the world in certain 
 respects, but in this special work their art breaks every rule of the recognized 
 schools. Who would look on that teapot for perspective art? Yet all of your 
 fine masters cannot produce such a fine work as that. What many of the Euro- 
 pean artists laughed at, not long since, they are trying in vain now to imitate. 
 
 The art of Cloisonne is seen to perfection in Japan. A thin network of cop- 
 per or brass is soldered to a foundation of solid metal, and the cells of the network 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 63 
 
 — the cloisons, as they are called — are filled in with enamel paste of various 
 colors. By baking, rubbing and polishing the surface becomes perfectly hard 
 and smooth. 
 
 Means of Transport. 
 
 The jinrikisha (meaning "man-power vehicle") is an institution of the land, 
 and, literally, it is the pull-man-car of Japan. The story goes that an American 
 missionary by the name of Goble, desiring with his good wife to accomplish cer- 
 
 JINRIKISHA. 
 
 tain missionary work, and finding it hard to find conveyances through the rural 
 districts, fell upon the invention of this two-wheel vehicle, to be drawn by a single 
 man. The invention immediately became popular, and in 1891 there were 
 thirty-eight thousand jinrikishas in use alone in Tokio. The ports of China 
 and Malay have the craze, and the thousands of coolies find employment, while 
 the residents, with more coins, are made comfortable by them. As the total cost 
 of the outfit of a jinrikishaman, coat, tight pants, hat and lantern, is only $4.00,. 
 
64 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 and he gets ten or fifteen cents for a pull of two miles, it can be made quite a 
 paying business by a stout oriental. 
 
 The Press. 
 
 One who has had an American paper placed on his breakfast table for 
 years is somewhat amused when he picks up a Japan daily. But considering 
 the fact that Mr. John Black founded Japanese journalism in 1872, commendable 
 progicss has been made. Four years ago there were six hundred and fifty-eight 
 
 IN THH home, J.\PAN. 
 
 newspapers, magazines, journals of different kinds published in the empire. 
 Newspapers, like books, are written in the "written language," which is quite 
 different in grammar and vocabulary from the colloquial language. 
 
 The press laws in Japan are very rigorous. Article XIX of the newspaper 
 regulations reads thus: "When a newspaper has printed matter which is consid- 
 ered prejudicial to public order or subversive of public morality, the minister of 
 state for the interior is empowered to su.spend its publication, either totally or 
 temporarily." During the month following the proclamation of the constitution 
 the brethren of the press expressed themselves rather freely, and newspapers were 
 suspended at the rate of two a vi?eek. What a blessing to a long-suffering public 
 in America if there could be a few suspensions of this kind ! 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 65' 
 
 Railroads. 
 
 The first railroad built in Japaa was eighteen miles in length and connected 
 Yokohama and Tokio. This was opened in 1872. On account of the moun- 
 tainous character of the country and the sudden swelling of the streams, Japan is 
 not adapted for railroad construction, but, despite these disadvantages, this 
 improvement has steadily gone on, and now the total mileage is over two thou- 
 sand. Although this enterprise was begun by the government, railroads are not 
 exclusively owned by the power at Tokio. The railways are narrow gauge and 
 
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 Ml 
 
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 ^ifci' 
 
 ^w 
 
 ^^HHw u^ * f^ 
 
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 Bt' 
 
 "•1 
 
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 I2 
 
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 ^^i^P'-- 
 
 ^^s»^ 
 
 ^^^^^^^"; . ■ ^*^«PPjBM 
 
 ss 
 
 ■ 
 
 JAPANESE DOMESTICS. 
 
 the rates are only about one cent a mile. The telegraph wire follows the rail- 
 road everywhere through the empire, and often it stretches over the mountains 
 where the trains of cars are not seen. Messages are written and transmitted 
 in the vernacular, and ten "kana" characters can be sent to any part of the 
 empire for fifteen cents. Perhaps when Japan becomes more civilized she will put 
 her railroads and telegraph system into the hands of noble-hearted monopolies, 
 and then the dear people will pay three cents to ride a mile and five cents to tele- 
 graph a word ! 
 5 
 
66 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 Funeral of a Prince. 
 
 On the day of our arrival in Tokio, the national capital, the funeral of 
 Prince Kitashirakawa, the uncle of the Emperor, took place. The Prince, it 
 seems, had distinguished himself in bringing under Japanese power the undis- 
 ciplined and demoralized Chinese of Formosa, and because of this and his near 
 relationship to the ruler of the land, he was honored in life and death. 
 
 The Official Gazette published in detail the order of the funeral cortege, of 
 the march and of the last obsequies at the temple, and these were carried out in 
 
 entrance; to japanesu temple. . 
 
 Strict adherence to the royal program. Two hours before the procession moved 
 ceremonies began at the residence, and then the train, headed by the First and 
 Third Regiments of the Imperial Guard, with arms reversed and two companies 
 on foot, moved through the gates. 
 
 The Procession. 
 
 On reaching the street the order of the cortege was as follows : The herald, 
 mounted police, inspectors, military band, detachments of the regiment of the 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 67 
 
 Imperial Guards, ten banners carried by white-robed bearers, a Shinto priest, and 
 ornamental box containing offerings, borne by four persons clad in white; Shinto 
 priests, clothed in ceremonial dress; the rain coat of the prince, carried by bearers 
 in white; mounted Shinto priests, chief priest in carriage, priestly musicians in 
 ceremonial garb, growing Sakiki trees, presented by the imperial family, borne 
 by special messengers from the palace ; forty stands of flowers, huge in size and 
 brilliant in color; decorations of the deceased prince, borne on cushions by 
 officers of the prince's household ; the sarcophagus of snow-white pine, borne by 
 
 ENTRANCE TO SHEEA TEMPLE, TOKIO. 
 
 sixteen wrestlers, who had followed the forces to Formosa ; seventy hakucho in 
 attendance, wounded military officers who had come back from Formosa with the 
 deceased prince, the princely bodyguard of ten soldiers in the frayed and travel- 
 stained garments worn during the campaign in Formosa, imperial bodyguards, 
 retainers of the late prince's household leading the prince's favorite horses; the 
 prince's foreign and Japanese swords, borne by retainers; the prince's shoes, 
 carried by retainers; chief mourner, the prince's oldest son, dressed in coarse 
 mourning garb, straw-sandaled, on foot, followed by his two younger brothers; 
 chief steward of the prince, on foot; the prince's family in carriages, ministers 
 
68 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 of state, dukes and marquises, officials of the second grade, holders of the highest 
 orders of decorations, nobles by creation, peers, members of the upper and lower 
 houses, mounted, armed and rear guard, chief inspector and police, mounted. 
 
 A Brilliant Cortege. 
 
 The procession, as may be imagined, was brilliant and of great lengtli, 
 taking about two hours to pass a given point. Including soldiers, the train was 
 supposed to be composed of not less than twelve thousand persons, and it is 
 estimated that two hundred thousand Japanese and foreigners lined the route of 
 
 TBA DRINKING, JAPAN. 
 
 march. Government schools, national and private hanks and governmental 
 departments were closed and a general holiday was observed. 
 
 The upper stories of buildings along the line of march were deserted it 
 being an act of sacrilege in Japan to look down upon a procession in which there 
 are persons of exalted rank. When the temple grounds were reached the students 
 of the Nobles' School, the foreign consular body and the diplomatic corps were 
 given special places, and around the sarcophagus gathered the representatives of 
 the Emperor and Empress and persons of high rank. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 69 
 
 The services "were in accordance with the ceremonial of the Shinto sect. 
 A short eulogy was pronounced; prayers were repeated; offerings of rice, water, 
 saki and f,ruits were made before the sarcophagus, and a triple salvo of guns 
 announced that the last royal rites were over. 
 
 Japan After Victory. 
 
 The world is congratulating Japan, and just now she is in high feather 
 among the nations. On the other hand, the stock of the people of the pigtail is 
 far below par, and her general condition is, at present, not very "celestial. " 
 
 MOUNTAIN V1I,I,AGE, JAPAN. 
 
 But Japan's congratulation should not be given to her so unreservedly, for 
 there is a loss and a gain, a tare and a tret to be taken into account. 
 
 What does she gain by her victory over China? She has accomplished 
 exploits, has developed unknown resources, has exposed the weakness and cor- 
 ruption of her sister empire, has brought herself forward as a military factor of 
 first-rate importance in the East, has acquired a commanding position in the 
 affairs of Corea, has had her treasury enriched by more than two hundred mil- 
 lions of taels of silver and has come into possession of the great and rich island 
 of Formosa. Of all these acquisitions the latter is by far the most substantial, 
 and doubtless it will add more than all others to the might and efficiency of Japan, 
 
70 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 This change of ownership is also most fortunate for Formosa. It will be devel- 
 oped better, and the two provinces of China, which lie just across the straits and 
 are closely connected in trade with Formosa, will be found sensitive to the 
 evolutionary and revolutionary forces. 
 
 Japan's Army and Navy. 
 
 The Japanese soldier has shown his metal and the staff scored high honors, 
 but at the same time the fighting qualities of the soldier or the capacity of officers 
 have not been very severely tested. If, instead of fancj', flaunting banners and 
 the fireworks of half-trained coolies, they had to stand before the deadly hail of 
 shrapnel and the crash of well-ordered volleys from disciplined troops, their equals 
 in bravery and patriotism, the result might not have been invariably one-sided. 
 
 Is Japan really better off now than before the war ? What does she propose to 
 do with her large indemnity ? She has become tremendously ambitious, and now 
 she is determined to make herself a great military and naval power and to exert 
 a potent influence in the affairs of Asia. With the money paid her by China she 
 is going to fortify her coast, buy more battleships and get ready for another 
 war that may grow out of the one that is just over. All the money received 
 from China will soon be spent in these preparations, and the costly navy and 
 the fortifications must be kept up. 
 
 Who is to pay for all of this? Japan is not a rich commercial nation like 
 England, with colonial possessions to draw on, and a heavy tax on her own peo- 
 ple, essential to military effectiveness, is apt to create grievous inward disturbance. 
 
 A Costly Prominence. 
 
 In other words, her victory has placed her in a position in the East that will 
 require her to spend large sums of money to maintain her prominence, and she 
 must necessarily be kept in constant anxiety for fear her people may be overbur- 
 dened in the maintenance of the army, navy and coast defences, and for fear that 
 the ever-watchful Russia may swallow the chestnut after Japan has cooked it. 
 
 Russia is noted for her dogged persistency of purpose, and she intends to 
 secure an opening to the unfrozen sea, if she has to fight for it. In order to 
 accomplish this, she cannot afford to allow Japan to gain any more power. Soon 
 after the fall of Port Arthur the Japanese army would have been in the capital 
 of China had not Russia, indirectly, changed the tide of affairs. In the settle- 
 ment of the Corean question Russia's fine hand was again seen, and many of the 
 intelligent Japanese think that Japan did the fighting and Russia is reaping the 
 fruits of the victory. A leading Japan paper last week contained this significant 
 paragraph : "Japan can supply the men and Great Britain the naval power, which 
 would more than balance the Russian and French preponderance over Japan. ' ' 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 71 
 
 But for Japan to become a party in European politics means more war, more 
 cost, more sacrifice and more national uneasiness. If she had kept at home and 
 devoted herself to the industrial development of her people, she would have no 
 apprehensions of a foreign war, and surely she has enough to keep her busy on 
 her own unique island. But she has taken the sword, and its blade may cut her 
 own throat before it is sheathed. 
 
 The Situation in Cliina. 
 
 The late enemy of Japan presents an interesting study. To-day we find in 
 China the same elements at work which brought about in India the substitution 
 
 PRUlT MERCHANT, JAPA.IT. 
 
 of foreign for native rule. A tottering imperial autocracj'', semi-independent 
 vice-royalties, an official class as corrupt, ignorant and self-seeking as any Indian 
 court could produce; great unpaid armies without leaders or discipline, such as 
 Clive and Wellesly so easily destroyed, and a people who do not know what 
 the word patriotism means, and who will sell themselves to the highest bidder. 
 If history repeats itself it takes no prophet or son of a prophet to foresee the 
 inevitable. 
 
 It is currently reported that the late financial commissioner at Canton 
 was appointed some time since by imperial edict on a special mission to convey 
 
72 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 to St. Petersburg a secret treaty between China and Russia, which concedes to 
 the latter the right to build railways through Manchuria and it also grants to 
 Russia other privileges of the kind, which proves beyond doubt the ten- 
 dency of China to accede to the wishes of a nation, into whose hands 
 she seems quite willing, practically, to place herself during the misfortunes 
 that now overshadow her. The fact that China reserves the right to pur- 
 chase from Russia these railroads in twenty years only proves that her star 
 of hope is still twinkling, however dimly, in the distant sky. All these things 
 are hastening forward the time when the much-talked-of Chinese wall will 
 entirely crumble before the influences from without, and when a nation of 
 400,000,000 population will be permeated, let us hope, by the golden light of a 
 new national life. 
 
 Japan '« New Attitude. 
 
 The remarkable progress of Japan during the last score of years, in moral 
 and intellectual, as well as material affairs, gave rise to high hopes that the 
 Gospel of Christ, as well as forms of Western civilization, would triumph in the 
 Mikado's empire. But the recent turn of affairs seem, for a while at least, to 
 check this advancement. The ascendency of the Samurai, which is the revival 
 of the old-time feudal aristocracy, means that our Western merchant and mis- 
 sionary must contend against an ancient conservatism, which was a blight upon 
 Japan for so many years. The fact that there are sixty thousand Protestant 
 converts in the country is an evidence that Christianity has made gratifying 
 progress; but as the Samurai, lately come to power, emphasize the divine origin 
 of the Emperor, it can readily be seen that the advance of the Bible means the 
 decay of this nation; hence we have here a partial explanation of the new 
 attitude toward foreigners, and especially missionaries. Again, successes in sev- 
 eral directions, of late, have increased the conceit of the little man of the Sunrise 
 Kingdom; and in more than one quarter of Japan the converts to Christianity 
 are reported as exclaiming to their fathers in the Gospel: "We have no need of 
 you any longer. We know how to preach and teach Christianity; provide us 
 with money and you can go back home;" and a native paper suggests the intro- 
 duction of a new Christianity, founded upon conditions existing among the 
 Japanese. In every part of the empire the missionaries of the Cross are laboring 
 prudently and untiringly against these obstacles, and we have faith that the Truth 
 will eventually prevail. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 THE INTERIOR OF JAPAN. 
 
 FORTNIGHT'S study of the interior of Japan brings before 
 
 us many features of life that are characteristic of this 
 
 people. In the little coaches of the railroad train or behind 
 
 the trotting jinrikasha man we pass thousands of acres laid 
 
 off in tiny squares with all the precision and regularity of 
 
 flower-garden beds. 
 
 The glory of the harvest time has come; the sheaves of rice 
 are bound most artistically about the trunks of the trees or around 
 great uplifted and stationary bamboo poles; the peasants, male 
 and female, are busy gathering the last of the ripened grain; the lazy hump-back 
 cow or ox creeps along nearly wholly covered by his great burden ; the farm vil- 
 lages, with low roofs of thatched rice straw, appear in the distance, and from 
 trees, housetops and poles are flying bright-colored flags, for it is the beginning 
 of the harvest festival, when the gods are eating new rice. 
 
 An Industrious People. 
 
 There is no people more industrious than the Japanese. This is true of the 
 man and woman, the young and the old. Whether you look into the tiny shops 
 that open into the street, or study the moving mass of coolies along the sea or 
 river fronts, or watch the active crowds on the streets, or visit the rural districts, 
 you are impressed by this fact. This industry is combined with a perfection in 
 detail of their work that is remarkable. 
 
 I know of no nation that does better work on small surfaces, that can accom- 
 plish more with raw materials, and that accomplish as much with as rough tools 
 as the Japanese. 
 
 Farming;. 
 
 It is a marvel to see what they accomplish in the line of agriculture with so 
 many odds against them. Along the steep slopes of the mountain side, in the 
 patches of earth between great boulders of rock, in the naturally barren plains, 
 made fertile by a perfect system of irrigation, you find fine illustrations of the 
 farming art. All farmers in Japan live in villages, and each village is presided 
 over by a headman, who settles all trouble among the farmers and who is the 
 supreme local authority. 
 
 (73) 
 
74 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The government land tax is 2j4 per cent of the land value, to which is 
 added the ken or district tax, which makes the total from 3 to 5 per cent. After 
 bad harvests it has been found impossible for the peasants to pay this tax, and 
 not seldom has there been great dissatisfaction among this class, bordering, some 
 years since, on insurrection. 
 
 Rice, wheat, barley, millet, guinea corn, maize and many varieties of vege- 
 tables are abundant in good seasons, and the small orange and large persimmon 
 are found on the breakfast and dinner table table nearly the year round. 
 
 KICE PLANTING, JAPAN. 
 
 More and more attention is being given to the cultivation of the camphor 
 tree, and this useful drug is quite a source of revenue. 
 
 Silk Culture. 
 
 Silk culture has made Japan famous, and hundreds of thousands of her citi- 
 zens are employed in preparing this article for the European market. 
 
 The silk, as is well known, originates in the cocoons, a pupa covering of a 
 group of worms which are called spinners. The mulberry spinner is the best 
 known and most important of all of these. They differ from one another in all 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 75 
 
 their stages of development — as eggs,- caterpillars, cocoons and butterflies — espe- 
 cially as to size and form of caterpillars and color of cocoons. 
 
 As the eggs have very fragile shells, the butterflies are made to deposit them 
 on boards made of bast paper. These stick fast, and from them, the young grubs 
 creep out on the cardboard. After the third casting the peculiar character of the 
 grub appears — yellow eyes, with black arches and dark sickles or half-moons on 
 the back. Until the second or third casting they must be fed with chopped mul- 
 
 WORKING WITH SILK WEAVERS, JAPAN. 
 
 berr5' leaves, which must be frequently given them, while they are kept in 
 clean, dry rooms, well ventilated. 
 
 Before the silk-worm begins to spin it loses its appetite, crawls about rest- 
 lessly and becomes translucent. But the internal change is even greater. The 
 two spinning glands become filled with transparent, thick, fluid silk stuff, which 
 comes forth from them when the worm begins to spin through the spinninf^ 
 teats in its head, stiffening in two separate threads and become cemented in a 
 double thread. After two or three days the worm changes into a chrysalis. First 
 
76 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 it makes a loose case, and then, supported by this, the body gets gradually 
 smaller, forming the cocoon. This consists of a thread from 400 to 500 metres 
 long and becoming thinner and weaker toward the centre. 
 
 I am told upon close examination with a magnifying glass a cross section of 
 a cocoon wall shows five to ten laj-ers of silk formed by the caterpillar in contin- 
 uous backward turns, one on another. A week or ten days after the caterpillars 
 
 STREET SCENE IN YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 
 
 have spun, the cocoons are taken from their resting-places and separated from the 
 floss silk that surrounds them. 
 
 Lacquer Industry. 
 
 In the thatch-roofed huts of the peasants among the mountains beyond Nikko 
 and in the magnificent palace of the Mikado at Kioto I saw exquisite lacquer- 
 work. This is found everywhere. While I write there is before me an "Autum- 
 nal Landscape by Moonlight," in lacquer-work, which shows ten or twelve shades 
 of color, and which is quite artistic in design. 
 
 The material of the industry is the sap of the lac tree, cultivated in Japan 
 and China. The extraction of the lac is done by making a horizontal slit upon 
 the tree during the season from April to October. The autumn product is less 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 77 
 
 watery and more valuable. The scratchiug-sickle, a thin iron plate, bent like a 
 fishhook, and a flat iron spoon with a short, bent-over point, are the instruments 
 used in obtaining it. The first is used to cut the tree and the other for scraping 
 out the channels when full of lac and lifting it into the small wooden or bamboo 
 pail. 
 
 The raw material is purified from foreign substances by being pressed 
 through cotton cloth and hemp linen, and afterward it passes through a process 
 of evaporation in the sun or by means of a mild heat over a coal fire. The laying 
 
 jAPAJsr Fan dealer. 
 
 on of the coatings requires the greatest care, and is gone over crosswise with the 
 brush, first in one direction and then in another. After the groundwork is com- 
 pleted it is rubbed until a smooth surface of dark-gray becomes gray-black. On 
 small and large surfaces we find a great variety of patterns in lacquer-work, and 
 some of them are richly ornamental. 
 
 Castle by the Sea. 
 
 Through the kindly consideration of the United States Minister at Tokio 
 we were sent passports to the Mikado's palace at Kioto, the old capital of Japan, 
 and to the neighboring castle. The decorations in ivory, bronze, wood-carving, 
 
7S 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 enamel, porcelain, wall-painting, embroidery and inlaid metal-work give proof of 
 the highest genius in certain directions; and the throne-chair, inlaid with 
 mother-of-pearl, is a gem in art. I pushed aside the exquisite silk curtains of 
 his Majesty's bed and looked upon the spot where, last fall, he rested his uneasy 
 head while in Kioto. 
 
 From Kobe to Moji we sailed two hundred and fifty miles through the entire 
 length of the famous Inland sea. By many this is regarded as the most beautiful 
 water in the world, and surely it is hard to imagine anything more enchanting. 
 
 ^^^^^^wl^ 
 
 
 
 
 ^^'"■Mm ^^^ 
 
 ^^^% '-f.: 
 
 1 
 
 
 INLAND SEA, JAPAN. 
 
 Our boat winds about island after island, passes through narrow passages of 
 water, overshadowed by great bluffs from the headland, and during every turn 
 of our noble steamer a new panorama of beauty opened before us. The day was 
 bright and the night was lit by a full moon. The play of the moonlight on the 
 rippling face of the silver sea and the soft glow on the hundreds of islands in 
 the still night made me quite forget my cabin-room, and much of the night was 
 spent on the deck. 
 
 The entrance to the sea at Moji is guarded by fortifications that line the 
 summits of the hills, and the full supply of cannon, occupying either side of the 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 79 
 
 strait, would doubtless prove to be an impressive argument to an incoming 
 enemy. 
 
 It was just here, in the town of Bakan (Shimonoseki on foreign maps), that 
 the Chinese Viceroy, Li Hung Chang, ' ' the Napoleon of the East, ' ' as General 
 Grant called him, met 
 the representatives of the 
 Mikado, and I saw where 
 he was shot while riding 
 through one of the nar- 
 row streets of the village. 
 This murderous act of a 
 Japanese crank cost 
 Japan dearly, but as cap- 
 ital punishment is not 
 tolerated in the land, the 
 criminal . was only sent 
 to prison. 
 
 In a Japanese Hotel. 
 
 At Kokura we had 
 the new and, it is to be 
 hoped, never-to-be-re- 
 peated experience of 
 spending the night in a 
 Japanese hotel, pure and 
 simple. This was done 
 at the urgent solicitation 
 of two friends, whom we 
 are trying hard to for- 
 give. On entering we 
 left our shoes at the door 
 and were supplied with 
 cloth slippers. 
 
 While our Japanese 
 supper was in process of 
 preparation we sat on the floor around a hibachi (fire jar), where a little charcoal 
 fire was burning- beneath our teapot. The Japanese maids soon appeared with the 
 fish, rice, eggs and certain dishes that we took on blind faith, and our performance 
 with chop-sticks was as amusing as it was deliberate. A full bill of fare was 
 served, and we were obliged, despite hints and jokes to the contrary, to taste 
 
 FAVORITE GAME WITH JAPANESE GIRLS. 
 
8o 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 everything, from the soup (an unknovpn quality— not quantity, thanks!) to the 
 pickles, which defied analysis. At ten o'clock, after spending hours in a sitting 
 posture, four futons or thick comforts were spread on the floor, at the head of 
 which were placed white brick-bats for pillows, and we rolled in, or rather on. 
 No wonder that Jacob dreamed under the circumstances. I dreamed, too, but my 
 dreams were by no means heavenly. Far in the night, when the novelty and 
 romance of the performance had long passed away, I quietly hopped over my 
 tossing comrades, and securing my overcoat, wrapped my brick pillow in it, and 
 the plane of my dreams arose to the level of the earth. 
 
 AT NIKKO, JAPAN. 
 
 They say that the Japanese sit up late. In doing so they manifest excellent 
 judgment and common sen'ie and prove that they are not fond of self-sacrifice. 
 
 Japanese Scenery. 
 
 One must not come to Japan and fail to make an excursion inland of a hun- 
 dred miles from Yokohama, with Nikko as the objective point. 
 
 From the moment you leave the crowded station of the cit}- on the sea ufltil 
 you look upon the little village that nestles at the foot of the most picturesque 
 mountains of Japan one scene of beauty and interest after another comes into view^ 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 8i 
 
 Although you may have an interesting novel on your lap, very few of its 
 pages are read, for now the steep steps to a Shinto shrine attracts your attention; 
 now a great Buddhist temple appears in a neighboring grove; now a gaudy 
 funeral procession passes by; now your train is dashing along the outskirts of a 
 straw-built Japanese village; now a group of rustic men and women, wearing 
 loose upper garments and coarse blue tights, pause in the midst of their farm 
 work, and gaze with wide-open eyes at the moving coaches; now you are passing 
 through a bamboo grove ; now you are attracted by a group of women and girls 
 
 WORK ON TEMPLE, JAPAN. 
 
 attending to the silk-worms or spinning the silk and winding the thread ; now 
 you are watching the crude process of grinding the grain between great flat rocks, 
 or beating the straw with rods; and thus, although your train has made only 
 twenty miles an hour, the trip seems too short when the conductor unlocks your 
 coach-door and cries out "Nikko. " 
 
 Sacred Shrines and Legends. 
 
 Nikko is especially noted for its temple.", which for their architecture, size 
 and costliness, are as remarkable as any in Japan. Millions of dollars have been 
 spent in these buildings, and the curious ornamental work, the hideously 
 6 
 
82 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 grotesque idols in bronze, the elaborate wood-carvings of vines, flowers, birds 
 and beasts display the talent as well as the superstition of the people. 
 
 The front of one building is ornamented by the figures of three monkeys; 
 one with his hands over his eyes, that he may see nothing bad; another covering 
 his mouth, that he may say nothing thai is wrong, and the third holding his ears, 
 that he may hear nothing that may offend his monkeyship. At the entrance of 
 these temples are great brass gongs, and above them hang metallic hammers 
 with ropes attached. 
 
 When petitions are to be offered most unearthly noises are made to awake 
 and attract the attention of the Deity ! No amount of clatter, however, is sup- 
 
 HOtY HORSE BEFORE BUDDHIST TEMPLE, NIKKO, JAPAN. 
 
 posed to arrest the attention of the god until the worshiper casts into the open 
 box within the door his contribution of money. 
 
 There is an interesting legend, reminding us of a certain classic fable, that 
 is associated with the carvings on these temples. The story goes that this won- 
 derful work was done by a left-handed dwarf, and while he was ornamenting the 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 83 
 
 temples he fell in love with a beautiful girl of Nikko, who spurned his addresses 
 ou account of his deformity of person. She was unyielding, despite the evidences 
 of his genius and his tender pleadings; and, at last, nearly heart-broken, he 
 returned to his native city, Tokio, where he carved an image of his loved one, 
 which was so perfect that the gods endowed it with life, and the artist lived with 
 it, as his wife, all during his life in the enjoyment of the greatest happiness. 
 
 riountains and nonkeys. 
 
 Early in the morning we engaged jinrikishas, and, with two men to each 
 vehicle, we passed out of the village on a narrow road, with a dashing mountain 
 stream on one side and the precipitous heights on the other. For eight miles we 
 ascended the steep and circuitous path, stopping now and then to refresh our- 
 selves at a tea-house or to admire the mountain panorama. 
 
 We paused for quite a while before a cataract, whose waters fell nearly a 
 thousand feet from the bluff to the echoing chasm beneath, and watched the great 
 volume of water until it passed into a cloudy spray in its great leap. 
 
 At one time as we looked out from a bench before a tea-house, we could see 
 three heights of mountain peaks, rising one above the other, and down the valley 
 gorges before us three plunging streams foamed over the great boulders of rock, 
 turning in their excited rage into pale, quivering waterfalls as they threw them- 
 selves recklessly against the sides of the mountain into the valley below ! 
 
 Suddenly one of my jinrikisha men exclaimed in English that was more 
 euphonious than classic, "Moonkee," and there before us were six or seven of 
 these comical little creatures as self-satisfied as any other Japanese could possibly 
 be. Whenever I look a monkey in the face I think of the words of a certain 
 American professor, who, while lecturing on evolution, seeing that the class was 
 inattentive to his words, exclaimed, "Gentlemen, while I am discussing the 
 monkey I desire you to look me right straight in the face !' ' 
 
 One of Japan's Five Wonders. 
 
 The object of our mountain trip was a visit to the celebrated Chuzen-ji Lake, 
 which is one of the five wonders of Japan. 
 
 Before reaching the mountain top our path for a mile or two lay through 
 snow several inches in depth, and as we made a sharp turn there lay before us 
 the rippling face of this beautiful sheet of water, thousands of feet above the 
 village we had left some hours before. 
 
 No word, no brush, can describe or paint this transparent body of water, 
 lifted so near and reflecting so perfectly the deep-blue sky, and there seems to be 
 no satisfactory explanation of this strange phenomenon in nature— a lake filling 
 the empty cone of the mountain ! 
 
84 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 In Virginia and in North Carolina we find similar sheets of water, but they 
 are not so elevated and picturesque as the Chuzen-ji. 
 
 Curious Contrasts. 
 
 I noticed on this trip, more than while I was nearer the coast, how com- 
 pletely the Japanese are our antipodes in many respects, and how opposite are 
 many of their methods and manners. 
 
 The few horses they have are stalled with their heads to the passageway, 
 and the)'^ are shod with close-braided rice-straw in the place of iron shoes. The 
 
 JAPAN I<ADY IN JINRIKISHA. 
 
 carpenters draw the plane toward them instead of pushing it from them, and the 
 tailor sews from him, not toward his body, holding the thread, not with his 
 fingers, but with his toes. 
 
 Smoke from our fireplaces escapes through the chimneys outside of the 
 house; smoke ascends from their brasiers inside of the room, finding its way out 
 at the doors and windows. 
 
 Leaving the train and boat in my tour southward it was a pleasant experience 
 to travel thirty miles a day in a comfortable jinrikisha, drawn by a muscular, 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEX. 85 
 
 long-winded Japanese; and thus I was enabled personally to study the customs 
 and characteristics of the people living in the southern part of the country. 
 
 The Two=Legged Horse and Two=Wheeled Carriage. 
 
 As the jinrikisha is an institution of Japan, I may be allowed to speak more 
 particularly of it. It is estimated that more than one million of Japanese are 
 employed in the transportation of persons and commodities from place to place 
 in Japan; and one-fourth of these pull the jinrikisha. The human horses who 
 dash along the streets of the cities and roads of the country", pulling these two- 
 wheeled vehicles, form a profession within themselves; and as the result of 
 severe training from early youth, they are enabled to stand a strain on their 
 muscles that is marvelous. Ten years of this toil tell on the well-knit frame of 
 the little man ; and his once strong, active form becomes bent, ill-shapen and 
 comparatively feeble. On one of my long journeys, the jinrikisha-man cast from 
 him every vestige of clothing except the breech-cloth ; and during the trip the 
 brave little two-legged horse trotted along at seven miles an hour, while the per- 
 spiration dropped from his brow and face, and stood in beads on his quivering, 
 naked back. 
 
 He lives largely upon rice, and consumes as much as a sho, or more 
 than a quart and a half during a day of excessive toiL It is painful to see an 
 old, nearly worn-out man with a mushroom hat, staggering along in his effort 
 to puU a double jinrikisha in which a whole family is seated. These human 
 pullers are generally divided into three classes : The Kakaye form the aristocracy 
 of the profession ; they are well-dressed, well-fed and well-paid ; and while on a 
 fast dash they enjoy practically the right of waj". The Yadoguruma class have 
 their regular stands and regular customers; and the Tsujigurmna men are the 
 poorest and most miserable, corresponding to the pitiable "night hawks" of the 
 cab profession. 
 
 The cost of a new jinrikisha is about ten dollars; but for half of this 
 amount a good vehicle can be bought. The keeper of a stand takes 15 per 
 cent of the money made by the men under his emploj', and in addition, these 
 toilers must pay from one and a half to two yen (seventy -five cents to one doUar) 
 a month for the use of the carriage. The prices paid for jinrikisha rides varj- 
 according to the class of men you employ. First-class men, from eighteen to 
 thirty years of age, who are strong and swift, are paid four cents an hour; but 
 between the ages of thirty and fifty, they are not regarded, as first-class, and are 
 paid from one and a half to three cents for the same time. Both the men and 
 vehicles undergo annual inspection by the police, and in 1895 about two thousand 
 jinrikishas and fifteen hundred jinrikisha-men were rejected in the city of Tokio. 
 Before the ride and during the ride the human horse in Japan is all smiles and 
 
86 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 bows; but when you descend from your seat then comes the tug-of — wages, it 
 matters little how distinct has been the previous agreement. 
 
 As the tourist travels through inland Japan he is impressed by the thick 
 settlement of the country. The rural districts are full of people ; nearly every 
 woman has a baby lashed to her back, and the numerical increase seems far 
 greater than the increase of available wealth. 
 
 Instructive Statistics. 
 
 The government statistics show that while only between twelve and thirteen 
 millions of acres are under cultivation, over forty millions of natives live on these 
 islands, and a still stranger fact, there are 30,000,000 pounds of tea, 5,000,000 
 pounds of raw silk and 40,000,000 pounds of rice exported every j-ear. 
 
 At the beginning of the j"ear the population of Japan was as follows : Num- 
 ber of families, 7,883,369; individuals, 41.810,202; males, 21,121,398: females, 
 20,688,804. -^s compared with the previous }-ear the figures show an increase of 
 24,872 families and 424,695 individuals. There were 1,208,918 births and S40,- 
 741 deaths during the year. The number of marriages was 351,146, that of 
 divorces being 112,362. 
 
 Considering the size and wealth of Japan and the available farm land, these 
 statistics present an interesting problem to the student as to the future of this, 
 in many respects, unique people. From the north we have, by means of train, 
 boat and jinrikisha, reached the southernmost point of the most southerly island 
 of the empire, and we are now writing in the saloon of the steamer ' ' Malacca," 
 looking out upon the harbor of Nagasaki, one of the most important ports in 
 tlie East. 
 
 Noticing the number of persons wearing eyeglasses in Nagasaki, I made 
 mention of this fact to a resident of the place, who dryly replied: "Oh, yes; we 
 put green eyeglasses on goats and then feed them with shavings. Thej- think 
 that the}' are eating grass!" 
 
 As the full moon rises over the crests of the mountains that form the back- 
 ground to the city, shooting its silver arrows through the narrow straits, and as 
 the rising tide lifts our leviathan of the deep, we sail past the lofty island of 
 Pappenburg, the Tarpeian Rock of the East, from whose heights Christians are 
 said to have been hurled during the seventeenth centurj-, and turn our bow 
 toward the Celestial empire. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 THE LAND OF THE PIQ-TAIL. 
 
 On leaving Japan we decided to turn from the route usually taken by the 
 "globe trotter," and instead of sailing direct for Hong Kong, we took steamer 
 across the Yellow Sea, reaching the largest and most important city of Central 
 China after three days of delightful experience on the "Malacca. " 
 
 Shanghai is located on the Whang-pu River, twelve miles from the Yangtzse 
 River and thirty miles from the sea-coast. Before the coming of foreigners to 
 the city it was quite an insignificant place, but now it has a population of about 
 five hundred thousand, is in many respects the most prominent commercial city 
 of the empire, and is the fifth port in the world in importance. 
 
 As we neared the wharf the bund, stretching along the river front, presented 
 a lively appearance. Hundreds of Chinese coolies crowded as near the incoming 
 steamer as the batons of the English and Indian police allowed, filling the air 
 with their babble ; through the wide, well-paved street before us moved a great 
 mass of people representing nearly every nationality, some in handsome equipages, 
 some in the dashing jinrikishas, some in the bright-colored sedan chairs, borne 
 by two or four men, some in the square palanquin, some in the queer-looking 
 Chinese wheelbarrows and others moving on foot at a pace that would do honor 
 to the Chicago pedestrian, and across the wide bund were rows of business 
 houses as large and substantial in appearance as some of the business blocks on 
 lower Broadway, New York. 
 
 In Shanghai there are three foreign "Concessions," the English, the 
 American and the French, all of which are outside of the old city wall, and 
 present as striking contrast to the Chinese quarters as could well be imagined. 
 The English and American "Concessions" are governed by the same munici- 
 pality, the council is elected by rate-payers, and the police is composed of 
 Englishmen, Chinese and Sikhs from India. The French portion of the city, 
 extending nearly half way around the walls of the native city, is managed quite 
 diiferently from the others, and, indeed, is a little French republic within the 
 Chinese empire. 
 
 The Streets of Shanghai. 
 
 The city, inhabited only by Chinese, is surrounded by a great wall, and the 
 four entrances are called the North, South, East and West Gates, which are 
 closed early in the night until early in the morning and guarded all the time. 
 
 (87) 
 
88 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Passing through the North Gate, we spent a portion of a day threading our way 
 through streets from four to ten feet wide, oftentimes hemmed in between the 
 moving masses of men, women, children and dogs, all equally respectable in 
 appearance, and all except the miserable-looking dogs making the place hideous 
 with their rasping, grating din and clatter. Here is the professional beggar, 
 caked in dirt and partly covered with what in their better days were rags, wal- 
 lowing in the filth of the street and with trembling hands and nodding head 
 
 WOMBN PRISONERS, SHANGHAI, CHINA. 
 
 pleading for "cash;" here are the juggler and the fortune-teller, plying their 
 trades before gaping crowds; here we enter the main business street, possibly ten 
 feet wide, where the purchasers stand outside of the shops, which are filled with 
 every conceivable article of merchandise in every conceivable state of confusion ; 
 here the manufacturer of idols, surrounded by grinning and frowning images, is 
 trying to make one more hideous still to add to his stock of goods; here are a 
 dozen men, with long iron forks, turning the fire that crackles beneath great 
 
90 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 copper bowls filled with boiling opium; here we pass into an opium den, where 
 scores of men are stretched upon double sofas inhaling the fatal drug, which 
 they put into their long pipes with large needles after melting it in small 
 flames that burn in oil lamps near by. 
 
 A Typical Tea Shop. 
 
 Here we pause in the door of a typical Chinese tea-shop, where men gather 
 to congratulate each other, to quarrel, to talk gossip, or to attend to business. 
 
 THE GOLDEN ISLAND WITH UNlflNISHED PAGODA NEAR CHIN KIANG. 
 
 Here we are quickly satisfied with a passing glimpse of a home-scene which is 
 too repulsive to dwell upon, as it was too sickening to look upon. Here we pass 
 the fish and fowl market, where the dealers' goods become more popular and 
 costly if they have age added to their other doubtful virtues, and at last, with a 
 sigh of grateful relief, we pass out of the West Gate and joyfully think of our 
 native land. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 91 
 
 When you consider the inexpressible filthiness of the native city of Shang- 
 hai, the wonder is that some terrible epidemic has not long since swept its 
 citizens out of existence. The municipal council attempted to persuade the 
 Chinese official in charge of the old city to allow them to put the filtered water 
 from the water-works throughout the city, but he replied that he preferred the 
 muddy water from the moat around the j)lace because it had more body to it ! 
 
 The tea-shop, mentioned above, is an important institution of China. It 
 serves as a news depot, where the people gather to hear the news of the day; as 
 
 THE ART OF PRINTING AS SEEN IN SHANGHAI, CHINA. 
 
 a business house, where men buy and sell and discuss the commercial interests 
 of the country ; and as a place of pleasure and general resort. If two men get 
 into a quarrel on the street, one is apt to drag the other to a tea-shop and drink 
 tea at his expense while they settle the matter between them. The stronger 
 does the dragging and the weaker does the treating. 
 
 The shop is a large open room located in a central and popular portion of the 
 city, and small square tables and low, narrow benches constitute the furniture. 
 A covered cup containing a pinch of tea leaves is placed before each tea-drinker, 
 
92 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 and it is filled and refilled with hot water as desired. A man may drink this 
 sugarless liquid all afternoon with his companion, and on settling the bill he 
 will find that he is only about two cents poorer. 
 
 I asked my Shanghai friend as we stood in one of these shops and listened to 
 the discordant screams of the patrons of the institution what was the cause of 
 this confusion. "Each man wants more hot water," was his reply, as he pitied 
 my ignorance of the ways of polite society in these parts. 
 
 The Opium Trade. 
 
 You are not long upon the streets of a Chinese city before you detect in the 
 bleared eye and sallow features of the people, both male and female, the opium- 
 eating habit. The disgraceful trade, fprced upon. 
 f' "^ . " China by the English at the point of the bayonet, 
 
 is increasing every year, and now forms the 
 heaviest item of import. How a nation can long 
 exist and consume such quantities of this active 
 poison is a mystery. The opium is shipped from 
 
 India in the form 
 of balls, is dis- 
 solved in water 
 and boiled to a 
 paste prepara- 
 tory to immedi- 
 ate consumption. 
 Yesterday after- 
 noon a steamer 
 arrived at the 
 Shanghai port, 
 RIVER SCENE AT KAYiN, CHINA. and among other 
 
 things it con- 
 tained, as reported in this morning's paper, were two missionaries and three 
 hundred and nineteen chests of opium. Poor John Chinaman ! 
 
 Curious Customs. 
 
 In China, as in Japan, the customs of the people are in striking contrasts to 
 ours. A Chinese acquaintance, meeting you on the street, shakes his own hands 
 instead of yours as a mark of greeting. The men wear their hair as long as it 
 will grow, and they dress in skirts, while the women bind their hair tight around 
 their heads, and dress in pants. 
 
A TEAPICKBR. 
 
 (93) 
 
94 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The written language is never spoken, the spoken language is never written, 
 and in reading a book the Chinaman begins at the end and reads backward, 
 making his notes at the top of the page instead of at the bottom, as with us. 
 
 Surnames precede the given names, white and not black is used in mourn- 
 ing, a horse is mounted from the off-side and a vessel is launched sideways 
 instead of endways. 
 
 If you follow the Chinese fashion at dinner you must commence not with the 
 soup, but with the dessert, and in hunting a dressmaker you must look for a 
 man, not a woman. The index of the Chinese mariner's compass is placed on 
 the opposite end of the needle, and does not point to the north pole, but to the 
 
 FARMING OPEI?.ATIONS IN SOUTHERN CHINA — PLOWING WITH AN OX. 
 
 south. The babies look sober, the grown people grin and giggle. Our brides- 
 maids look beautiful in white, their bridesmaids look ugly in black. 
 
 Indeed, the matters of surprise were that these contrary creatures did not go 
 to bed in the morning and get up at night, and come down the street backward 
 instead of forward ! The beasts and the birds seem to have caught the spirit of 
 national contrariness. l,ast Thursday, while taking a twelve-mile trip along the 
 grand canal on a donkey, in my frantic efforts to make his donkeyship cover 
 more than two miles an hour, I made a fatal mistake. I clucked, and there was 
 a dead halt. But, stranger still, in a flock of crows I noticed even here the 
 Chinese tendency — some of these birds had white rings about their necks ! In 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 95 
 
 accomplishing the unexpected, as well as performing tricks that are vain, the 
 heathen "Chinee" is peculiar. 
 
 Among many persons in the West there exist most erroneous impressions of 
 the political life, the imperial government and the national militia of the Middle 
 Kingdom. Let us glance at these. The empire known to us as China is called 
 by the Chinese Chung-Kuo (Middle Kingdom,) or Chung-hua Kuo (Middle Flow- 
 ery Kingdom). The name China is thought to be derived from Ch'in, which was 
 the name of a State in Northwestern China before the Christian era. It is 
 
 EARI, 1,1 VISITING GENBRAI, GRANT'S TOMB. 
 
 recorded that Prince Cheng, ruler of Ch'in in the year 221 B. C, declared him- 
 self the "first universal emperor," and extended his dominion over the whole of 
 the country. 
 
 The vastness of the empire may be imagined from the following facts: Its 
 present area, exclusive of Corea, is about 4, 179,550 English square miles, and its 
 population, according to the official census taken in 1842, before the outbreak of 
 the Tai-Ping rebellion, was 413,700,000. It will be thus seen that the Chinese 
 
96 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 empire is larger than the whole of Europe and over thirty times the size of Great 
 Britain and Ireland. 
 
 As China's neighbor on the north is Russian territory, on the southwest British 
 possession, on the south the country that France is coveting, and on the east 
 is bounded by the Pacific Ocean, with two thousand five hundred miles of coast, 
 it can easily be seen why so many nations were greatly interested in the Japan- 
 China war, and why the "civilized" powers are watching her every movement. 
 
 Three great rivers drain the vast empire, adding immeasurably to the fertility 
 of the soil and affording convenient highways for travel and trade. The Yellow 
 
 THE PEKIN GATE IN THE GREAT WAI,I, OF CHINA. 
 
 River is in the north, the West River is in the southwest, and the Yangtzse (the 
 great river), which is in the centre, is the most important of all, and is one of 
 the greatest rivers in the world. It is navigable for large ocean steamers as far 
 up as six hundred- miles from the sea, and while spending several days on its 
 bosom we were impressed by its vastness and its importance to the commercial 
 life of China. 
 
 China proper, not including Manchuria and the Eastern Turkestan province, 
 is divided into 19 provinces, and these again are geographically divided into 87 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 97 
 
 circuits, 189 prefectures, 34 departments, 71 districts, 11^ sub-prefectures of the 
 Ting class, 188 sub-prefectures of the Chou class, and 1334 counties. 
 
 Pekin is the name pf the Chinese imperial capital city, and here is the main 
 residence of the Emperor and the seat of the central government. 
 
 The present Emperor, Kuang-su, came to the throne in 1875, at the age of 
 four years, and was brought up under the care of the Empress -Dowager Regent. 
 The Emperor is the head of the church (so to speak), as well as the state, and 
 the government of the empire is based on the government of the family, accord- 
 
 EXTERioR oif The rovaIv pai,ace, pekin, china. 
 
 ing to the laws and regulations laid down in the collected laws and institutes of 
 the present dynasty. 
 
 The Emperor worships Shang-ti, the Supreme Ruler and king of kings, 
 ■offers sacrifices to father Heaven and mother Earth, to the immortal sage Con- 
 fucius, as the saviour of the empire, and to Kuau-ti, the deified warrior, who is 
 supposed to have delivered China in war and calamities during the time of the 
 ' ' Three Kingdoms. ' ' The present dynasty claims to be ruling in China by divine 
 right, and the Emperor is supposed to be descended from Shang-ti, the supreme 
 ruler, whom he regularly worships. 
 
98 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Principal Offices. 
 
 The principal offices under the Emperor at Peking are the privy council, the 
 cabinet, the board of civil office, the board of revenue, the board of ceremonies, 
 the board of admiralty, the board of war, the board of punishment, the board of 
 works, supreme college of literature, court of censors, colonial office and foreign 
 office. Perhaps it may not generally be known that the Emperor is not Chinese, 
 but Manchou, and one-half of all the high statesmen are Manchou and the other 
 half Chinese. 
 
 The provincial viceroys and governors are expected to watch over the inter- 
 ests of the empire in their respective provinces and communicate direct with the 
 throne, should this be necessary. Frequently, of late, the Emperor has sought 
 
 /' ' 
 
 
 ^^Sii 
 
 '-!***''«?*%?•' 
 
 
 
 A KAYIN PLOUGHMAN. 
 
 the advice of these provincial magnates, and in the case of the distinguished Li 
 Hung Chang, who was viceroy of Chih-li, the Emperor needing his confidential 
 advice, he was called to Peking, where he now resides as a member of the inner 
 circle of his Majesty's advisers. 
 
 Tlie Censorate. 
 
 Independent of the cabinet and above all the boards rises the censorate, 
 which consists of two presidents, four vice-presidents and about fifty members, 
 all of whom have taken their literary degrees and are associated with the Supreme 
 College of Literature. The censors are given special privileges by which they 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 99 
 
 may address memorials directly to the Emperor, and may even remonstrate with 
 him if they think that he is pursuing a course that is dangerous to the welfare 
 of the country. 
 
 As a nation the Chinese are not heavily taxed. The full amount of the 
 revenue levied, according to the report that is before me, in both grain and silver, 
 is about three hundred millions of taels when all is converted into silver currency, 
 and of this sum, it is said, one-third is never properly accounted for, another 
 
 RECEPTION OE A FOREIGN AMBASSADOR BY THK EMPEROR OE CHINA. 
 
 third is deducted to pay the expenses of collection, and not more than half of the 
 balance reaches Pekin. 
 
 nilitary Organizations. 
 
 The wprld just now is laughing at the military standing of China, and the 
 once much-dreaded Tartars appear to have retrograded in martial qualities. But 
 the undisciplined coolies who faced the Japanese in the late war give us a very 
 inadequate idea of the military force of tlie empire. 
 
lOO 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The Chinese army is divided into three great forces, each of which has its 
 own peculiar organization. The first of these is known as the Pa-Chi, or Eight 
 Banners, consisting entirely of hereditary warriors ranged under one or other of 
 the eight banners of the nationalities —the Manchous, the Mongol and the 
 Chinese. The total force is about 3200 officers and 350,000 privates, the majority 
 of whom have been taught the use of the modern breech-loading rifles and field 
 
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 I. Foreign Instructor J. C. Clcwe. 2, Captain Interpreter Chu Lao. 
 
 A NINE-INCH GUN, CHINESE ARTILLERY, "READY FOR ACTION." 
 
 artillery. The reserves of this banner army are the total population of Mongolia 
 and Manchuria. 
 
 nilitia and Volunteers. 
 
 The next division, or indeed separate army, is the regular Chinese army,- 
 called Ying Ping, Green Regiments, on account of their colors. This force con- 
 sists entirely of Chinese and is a sort of local militia, distributed throughout the 
 empire, numbering over 7000 officers and 300,000 privates. Three centuries 
 ago this was the finest military force in the world, but at present its lack of 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. loi 
 
 organization and discipline and the presence of corruption throughout the whole 
 system threatens its disintegration. > 
 
 The third Chinese army is the volunteers or braves. About half of this 
 force is fairly well disciplined and drilled in the use of modern artillery, and is 
 used to guard the approaches to the imperial capital. During the Tai-Ping 
 rebellion over four millions of Chinese were under arms, and were the reorganiza- 
 tion of the army attended to in a scientific manner China could easily place six 
 or seven millions of men in the field. 
 
 The organization of the Chinese navy having been entrusted to officers of 
 different nationalities, each of whom had some peculiar reform of his own to 
 introduce, the result, it seems, is a lamentable 
 mixture of things which is most unsatisfactory. 
 
 I was very much interested in a visit to 
 the arsenal at Shanghai, where the largest 
 guns are manufactured. Foo-Chow is the 
 only other place in the empire where an 
 arsenal of the kind is located. The most ser- 
 viceable guns are nine-inch, forty tons, 
 using projectiles of three hundred and fifty 
 
 NATIVE Farm in the vicinity of canton, china. 
 
 pounds and charged with one hundred and fifty pounds of powder. These have 
 an effective range of about two miles. 
 
 On ray trip of one hundred and fifty miles up the Yangtzse River I was 
 fortunate in having as one of my companions the foreign instructor to the Tse 
 Tien Miao battery, one of the largest batteries on the river, and through this 
 gentleman's kindness I received some valuable information. 
 
 Fortifications. 
 
 The fortifications along the Yangtzse valley are now the strongest in China, 
 and forces are here under German instruction, with the expectation of taking the 
 
 I 
 
T02 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 field in the coming spring against the Mohammedan rebels of the northwest. 
 There are thirty foreign instructors in the five forts along the river, most of these 
 American and British. 
 
 These instructors were engaged without the sanction of their countries, and 
 those from England received employment in violation of the British foreign 
 enlistment act, in force during the late war, thus making themselves liable to 
 large fines and six months' imprisonment. 
 
 The armament of these forts consists of English and German guns. Here 
 we find twelve-inch muzzle-loading guns, carrying projectiles of eighteen hun- 
 dred pounds, charged with two hundred pounds of powder, with a range of five 
 miles; also, twelve-inch breech-loading guns of fifty-two tons, nine-inch guns of 
 forty tons, six-inch quick-firing gun)s and Hotchkiss machine guns. 
 
 Corrupt Administrations. 
 
 Before these forts came under foreign instruction the greatest confusion and 
 corruption existed, and the robbery inflicted upon the government gives proof of 
 the lack of the least semblance of patriotism. I was given this instance of the 
 kind of dishonesty that is going on all over the empire to-day : The commander 
 of a camp of 500 men 'will receive 3000 taels — about 4500 Mexican dollars — per 
 month, for expenses. Instead of paying his men, say 71 or 72 tael-cents to the 
 Mexican dollar, he pays them at a different rate and keeps the balance. Again, 
 the officer has enrolled 500 men, while actually there are present only 300. The 
 inspecting officers give a week's notice before their arrival. Coolies are called 
 in from the neighboring villages, put in uniform for the day of the inspection 
 only, and they line the wall, wave flags and shout with the troops. As the 
 requisite number is present, the commander receives pay for the five hundred; 
 the two hundred coolies are dismissed on the departure of the inspectors with a 
 slight compensation and the officer or officers pocket the pay for two hundred 
 soldiers. This, I am told on good authority, is going on now all over China 
 where natives have the organization and command. of the military. Where for- 
 eign instruction prevails this kind of thing is impossible, for there is regular drill, 
 semi-foreign uniform and systematic inspection. 
 
 On our steamer going up to Nanking was the daughter of the viceroy, Liang 
 Kiang, with her retinue of ten servants. This vicero}' is said to be the most 
 progressive man in the empire, and in him largely centres the hope of China. 
 He has for his foreign adviser an Englishman by the name of R. B. Moorhead, 
 commissioner of the imperial maritime customs, who has been mainly instru- 
 mental in organizing the Yangtzse River defense that we have described. Grad- 
 ually this vast empire is allowing the wall of her exclusiveness to crumble. May 
 it soon exist only in memory and not in fact. 
 
^' 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 STRANGEST OF STRANGE CITIES. 
 
 HE third day out from Shanghai, we steamed up the mag- 
 nificent Typhon Bay, and dropped anchor below Hong 
 Kong, which rose before us on the lofty range of hills 
 that surround the famous harbor. We had reached the 
 -*- i3C3-««r i"r most easterly possession of Great Britain, and, from the 
 
 ^^&^\p^l ^^^1 scarlet uniforms that are constantly in evidence on the 
 
 streets of the city, from the strong fortifications that are 
 in view, and from the names given to many of the promi- 
 nent points of interest, you are not allowed to forget who are the masters of the 
 island, forty miles in circumference, upon which Hong Kong is located 
 
 * By means of the incline, cog-wheel railway, you reach the summit of Victoria 
 Peak, and, standing upon this noble eminence, you can take a bird's-eye view of 
 the country for many miles around. About you are many beautiful- bungalows, 
 with pretty surroundings; down the slopes of the hills are hundreds of handsome 
 residences of the foreigners; toward the base of the eminences can be seen the 
 Chinese quarters, in striking contrast to the rest of the settlement, and below and 
 stretching far away is the sea, dotted with crafts of every description. The popu- 
 lation of Hong Kong is of a most conglomerate character. While the English are 
 most strongly represented, Americans, French, Germans, East Indians, Italians, 
 Portuguese, Spaniards, and even the Parsee, are to be seen on the streets; and, 
 from the conduct of most of these in social and commercial life, it is not a matter 
 of surprise that the natives are accustomed to use the epithet of doubtful compli- 
 ment, "foreign devils," in speaking of them. 
 
 Although it is Christmas week, in this semi-tropical climate we notice the 
 exuberance of the flora. Many varieties of the cactus family, the camphor tree, 
 the aloes, the cypresses, the Cape jasmines, hydrangeas, geraniums, palms and 
 magnolias are seen quite frequently in our walks and drives about the city, and 
 the Chinese gardeners show great skill in the cultivation and exhibition of their 
 flowers and plants. 
 
 China's Commercial City. 
 
 Canton, the commercial capital of China, located ninety miles up the 
 Pearl River, was the special object of our visit to Southern China, and our 
 trip on the steamer, which gave us an excellent opportunity to study the river, 
 
I04 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 the rural districts, the dilapidated villages and the fortifications, was not in the least 
 wearisome. As you approach Canton, there is presented a sight that is not dupli- 
 cated in the world. You sail through a floating city of 200,000 souls ! The 
 thousands of boats that cover the face of the river fronting Canton are built as 
 houses, and in these boats persons are born, are married and die, never knowing 
 any other homes. The first one of these in which we rode, contained the father, 
 who guided the little craft; the mother and half-grown daughter, who did the 
 rowing, and three babies, who looked as sober as judges, cuddled up in the ' ' hole. ' ' 
 
 ON THE RIVER, CANTON. 
 
 This rude, floating affair is literally their world. Here they cook, eat, wash, ply 
 their only business, in which all the members of the family are engaged who can 
 lend a helping hand; and they seem to know nothing of, or care nothing about, the 
 population of a million and a half on the shore. I am writing these words on the 
 porch of the home of Dr. Graves, and just below me, within two hundred yards of 
 my chair, can be seen this moving city on the river, that reminds me somewhat 
 of the busy scenes on the great canal at Venice, except the boats are not so 
 artistic, but far more numerous. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 105 
 
 It has been well said that Canton is the strangest of all strange cities; and it 
 is certainly the most representative one in China. The city extends for four miles 
 along the Pearl River, and, although it has a population of about the size of New 
 York, there is hardly a street over eight feet in width. As the narrowness of the 
 streets will not allow the use of the jinrikishas, and as a horse is a curiosity, you 
 must wind your way through the throngs of people on foot, or be jostled along in 
 a sedan chair or rocking palanquin. Gamblers are found at every turn, seated 
 about square tables, jabbering in an excited manner; the small manufacturer 
 plies his trade in the open thoroughfare; cooking goes on in the gutters or in the 
 open doors, filling the air with 
 greasy odors; the barber is en- 
 
 gaged in his active business 
 by your side, as you pass 
 along; the vender of eels, rats 
 and dog-meat proudly screams 
 the doubtful statement that he 
 has something peculiarly deli- 
 
 A CHINESE GENTI,EMAN'S HOME. 
 
 cious; the burden-bearers, of both sexes and all ages, grunt and groan as they 
 limp past you; the gaudily decorated bridal chair, preceded by a long line of men 
 and boys with gay .banners and followed by a uniformed retinue, bearing baskets 
 and boxes of presents, attract your attention; and thus for hours you are interested, 
 instructed and bewildered by the ever-changing sights of the unique city. 
 
io6 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 A Chinese Dwelling. 
 
 A; family street of the better classes does not present a bad appearance. The; 
 walls lining both sides of the way are formed of bluish-gray bricks, neatly pointed 
 in mortar, with granite foundations reaching several feet above the ground. There 
 are no windows, and you enter through a plain, niassive, double-leaved door, 
 fastened by wooden bolts. Having entered this outer door, you find yourself 
 under a small introductory roof, which shelters the porter's room. Before j'ou 
 are sets of wooden doors reaching from wall to wall, and beyond these is a small 
 
 court, open to the sk}^ where or- 
 namental flowers and plants are- 
 placed. The house proper is now 
 before you, and separate apart- 
 ments, under different roofs, are 
 entered; for a Chinese residence, 
 except among the humbler classes, 
 is a collection of small buildings. 
 Ceilings are very seldom seen, and 
 the walls are neither- plastered nor 
 papered. The houses of the poor 
 are the most wretched hovels, 
 many of them being only mat- 
 sheds, the frame work of which is 
 made of bamboo and the walls and 
 roofs of oblongs formed of bamboo 
 leaves fastened together. 
 
 Sacred Hogs. 
 
 Although for two months we 
 
 had been visiting Japanese and 
 
 Chinese temples until we were 
 
 sickened by the degradation and 
 
 superstition of which the religious instinct of humanity was capable, we could not 
 
 see Canton without entering some of the hundreds of these buildings dedicated to 
 
 Confucianism, Buddhism or Taouism. 
 
 The one held most sacred by the natives, perhaps, is the Temple of 
 Honan. As you enter the grounds, you are confronted by two hideous idols of 
 colossal size, figures half animal and half human in design, with countenances 
 that would give the nightmare to a professional cut-throat ! Passing by the rows 
 of shrines, the groups of dwarfed trees forced to grow in the shape of various 
 animals, the cremating ovens where the bodies of the shaven-headed priests find 
 
 TEMPI,E AT NINGPO. 
 
io8 
 
 AROUNI> THE WORLD 
 
 repose, the pond where the sacred lotus is in bloom, we were more interested in 
 an enclosure where a number of sacred hogs were wallowing in filth in a most 
 unsacred manner. If the Parsee worships fire, the Japanese bends before foxes 
 and snakes, the Hindu makes gods of cows and monkeys, some may ask why 
 should not the gentleman of the pig-tail have his sacred pig. 
 
 Horrors I 
 
 In the Temple of Horrors, we looked upon vivid representations of the ten 
 hells of Buddhism. Men floating in boiling oil; women suspended by iron hooks 
 
 THE "FLOATING CITY" ON PEART, RIVER, CANTON, CHINA. 
 
 run through their backs, and all kinds of torments are set forth in ways that are 
 apt to make the blood of the wicked native curdle. 
 
 As my pen just now is running along the line of the horrible, I must not 
 close this chapter without telling of a heart-rending scene I witnessed yesterday. 
 Passing out of the East Gate of the city, after walking several miles over a lonely 
 country path, on either side of which were thousands of Chinese graves, many of 
 them fresh during the last year's black plague, we reached the village of lepers. As 
 we approached this place of agony, we were surrounded by scores of these death- 
 stricken creatures; and as we passed down the main street, the whole community 
 seemed to be at our heels craving alms. The loathsome disease had as its victim 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 109 
 
 knows 
 
 the infant at its mother's breast and the decrepit old man — all ages, in all stages 
 
 of the affliction, were before me. Some with face, hands and feet enlarged, red, 
 
 smooth and glossy; some undergoing spontaneous amputation of the fingers ancj 
 
 toes; some with limbs partially decayed — but I must draw the curtain upon this 
 
 horror of horrors ! 
 
 Slavery in China. 
 
 During my month's stay in Canton I had occasion, through the kindness 
 of our missionaries and consul, to study the customs and habits of the Cantonese; 
 and nothing that I witnessed was -,,, 
 more heart-rending than the cruel I 
 treatment and pitiable condition 
 of the blind girls. 
 
 In China the subject knows 
 no such a thing as liberty, and 
 the individual, who is but the 
 fraction of the unit of society, 
 which is the family 
 rights as an in- 
 dividual. This be- 
 ing true, slavery 
 is the necessary 
 consequence. Hu- 
 man beings are 
 bought and sold 
 as chattels, and 
 quite frequently a 
 childless man buys 
 a boy from poor 
 parents to save his 
 family from going 
 out of existence. 
 
 A form of domestic slavery, in which families of means buy slave-girls, is 
 very common here in Canton, and purchasing them in early girlhood for from ten 
 to one hundred dollars, according to their beauty and health, they work for their 
 owners without wages until they are of a marriageable age, when they are sold in 
 marriage or disposed of for other purposes, according to the price offered. 
 
 Sad Lot of Blind Qirls. 
 
 But there is a kind of slavery more appalling still, of which I desire specially 
 to write, namely, the slavery of blind girls. Passing down the streets of Canton, 
 
 ISI<AND OF THE T.lTtL.n ORPHAN IN THE YANGTZE. 
 
no AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 at night, my attention was called to numbers of blind girls from fourteen to 
 eighteen years of age dressed in brilliant outer garments, with their faces rouged 
 and- their hair ornamented with flowers. A woman, carrying a musical instrument, 
 led several of these girls, and I have since learned that they were owned by this 
 mistress, who conducted them, by night, to the lowest parts of the city, and by 
 their playing, singing and in most disreputable way she secures an income 
 through them that enables her to live in ease and comfort. I have met no class 
 of persons, not excepting the sore-covered beggar or the decaying leper, that 
 seemed so pitiable as these blind singing girls. 
 
 It is regarded an affliction for a girl to be born in a Chinese family, and when 
 the girl is blind her life is one of ceaseless neglect and cruelty, and often, if the 
 family is poor, she is sold for a small amount to one of these dealers in human 
 bodies, who plies her nefarious business until death snatches her victim from her. 
 
 Case of Redemption. 
 
 This morning I visited five of these little blind girls who had been redeemed 
 by a Christian woman before they were old enough to be led into lives of shame. 
 This is the sad story of one of these little creatures: Her father belonged to a 
 literary family and was himself an intelligent Chinese gentleman. The opium 
 habit and gambling became the curse of his life, and in order to gratify these 
 passions he sold all of his property and his six children, including this blind baby 
 girl. This child was rebought from a low mistress, who was training her to be a 
 singing girl. 
 
 One of these children has a double thumb on her right hand, and it was 
 through this deformity that she was rescued from a wretched life. Her mistress 
 brought her to one of the hospitals and requested that one of the thumbs be cut 
 ofi". When the surgeon declined to make the operation she started off, saying: 
 "Well, I will cut it away myself, for she can't learn the guitar with a double 
 thumb!" The doctor reported the case to my friend, and a few dollars redeemed 
 the child, double thumb and all! She seemed as lively as a cricket. 
 
 No one can tell what these innocent children suffer when they fall into the 
 clutches of these old harridans, and that the government has any responsibility in 
 the matter does not seem to occur to the Governor of Canton. 
 
 riassacres and Riots. 
 
 During the last score of years there have been frequent riots in Canton, in 
 which foreigners have been the sufferers, and as missionaries are the only foreigners 
 who go far inland away from the treaty ports, they have mainly felt the force of 
 these uprisings. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 HI 
 
 In 1883 there were riots here in Canton, a large part of the foreign settlement 
 was destroyed, including mission and business property, and many narrowly 
 escaped bodily injury. L,ast summer there were numerous riots in West China. 
 Almost all of the mission property in the province of Sze Chuan was demolished, 
 and a large number of Americans were among the sufferers. ' 
 
 During the terrible Tien-Tsin riot several French Catholic sisters and other 
 foreigners lost their lives, and last year a brutal attack was made on two lady 
 physicians in the suburb of Canton while they were trying to help a plague- 
 
 
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 REDEEMED BLIND GIRLS UNDER MISS WHILDEN'S CARE, CANTON, CHINA. 
 
 Stricken Chinaman to the hospital. The lives of these women were saved only 
 by the timely appearance of foreign customs officers with fire-arms. 
 
 The Kucheng Atrocities. 
 
 Since my arrival in China, knowing that many contradictory stories had been 
 sent to America about the notorious massacre at Kucheng, in the Fuh Kien 
 province, during last August, I have tried personally to learn the facts of this 
 affair, and I find that the reports have not exaggerated its brutality. 
 
 At this place, one hundred miles inland from the port of Foo-Chow, resided a 
 aiumber of English missionaries sent out by the English Mission Society and 
 
112 AROUND THE WORIyD 
 
 several sent out by the American Methodists. For some months a sect calling 
 itself Vegetarians (because they eat no flesh), known to be a dangerous secret 
 political society adhering strictly to the Buddhists, had shown ill-feeling toward 
 native and foreign Christians, and numerous acts of robbery and persecutions had 
 been committed. 
 
 August the first being the sixth birthday of Herbert Stewart, a child of mis- 
 sionaries, he and his sisters started out to the neighboring hills to gather flowers 
 with which to decorate the home in honor of his birthday. They were met by a 
 procession of these brutes, and after they had been beaten most unmercifully they 
 were allowed to return, only to find everything in the greatest disorder and the' 
 Vegetarians in full possession. The father and mother were murdered; Herbert 
 died from his wounds next day; one of the sisters was torn frightfully by a spear 
 wound; the baby's head was gashed and his eyes torn out and he lived only a few 
 days. The nurse and six young ladies of the mission were found dead, some of 
 them fearfully hacked and mutilated, and the houses of the foreigners were 
 burned. , 
 
 After the riot was over and the murderers had escaped soldiers were sent to keep 
 the peace, but they magnanimously seized the opportunity of stealing everything 
 of value that had been left on the ground, and continued to be nuisances until 
 they were removed. 
 
 The Leader's Confession. 
 
 Although it is currently reported that -over twenty of those connected with 
 this massacre have been beheaded, during the fall there have been repeated indi- 
 cations of more disturbances. After some little trouble I have been enabled to 
 secure an exact translation of the confession of Minchiang Chek, the man who led 
 the Vegetarians on the day of the massacre. It is as follows: " I am forty-seven 
 years of age, and reside in the eleventh township of the Minchiang district. I 
 am the eldest of three brothers, and am a doctor and brazier by trade. At the age 
 of twenty-six I became a Vegetarian, and on the ninth of the twelfth moon of last 
 year I came to Kucheng and induced eight men (names given) to join the society. 
 According to one of the fixed rules of the order, each of them paid 1680 cash as 
 an entrance fee, and after this'the leader of the sect gave me the new name of Buo 
 Heng. The Vegetarians are divided into nine companies, of which I belong to- 
 that known as Ling Kung. 
 
 ■ On the eighth of the sixth moon (the massacre was on the eleventh) about 
 thirty of us met in a monastery on Kung Sang Kuoi, and at that meeting three plans 
 were proposed: (i) To go to the village of Dank Denk and rob the house of a rich 
 man there. (2) To kill the foreigners at Hwa Sang. (3) To murderthe foreignecs- 
 and tear down their houses at Kucheng City. Being unable to decide, Dowg Gan. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 "3 
 
 Gang, a fortune-teller and our leader, took three pieces of paper, on which he 
 wrote the three plans proposed, writing one on each and rolling them into little 
 balls. He then took three incense sticks as chop sticks, and three times in 
 succession picked out the ball on which the words Hwa Sang were written. (The 
 massacre took place early the next morning.) 
 
 ' ' Over a hundred of us met that night and armed ourselves with guns and 
 three-pronged spears. The first foreigner we saw was a young lady standing at 
 the back door of one of the houses. I rushed at her immediately and 
 
 CHINBSE GAMBLING ON THE ROOF OF A HOUSE AT CANTON, CHINA. 
 
 ,stabbed her in the back with my spear. She fell down and died. Having 
 killed her, I went to a Chinese house where there was another foreign 
 woman (Miss Hartford, of the American Methodist Mission )i and tried to 
 stab her, but unfortunately her servant struck me and took from me my 
 spear. The other Vegetarians were at work in other houses where there were 
 
 foreigners." 
 
 Those men were not rebels, but murderous wretches, bitterly hating all 
 foreigners, and it is the general opinion that the viceroy of the province and hLs 
 8 
 
114 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 associates could have easily crushed them out of existence months ago if they had 
 so desired. 
 
 The letter of the treaties should protect foreigners from such brutal attacks, 
 but physical force influences much more the conduct of an ordinary Chinaman 
 than the moral obligation or legal significance of a treaty. 
 
 Attempt to Take Canton. 
 
 On our arrival in Japan the papers were filled with accounts of the attempted 
 uprising at Canton, and it was feared at one time that we would be prevented from 
 visiting Southern China. Through the kindness of our afiable consul at Canton, 
 Mr. Charles Seymour, I have secured the facts of this trouble, which threatened 
 to be a very serious affair. 
 
 The leaders of this rebellion planned that the attack on Canton should be 
 made on the thirtieth of October, andlooking to, this, arms and ammunition were 
 smuggled into the city. Monday morning, October 28, about four hundred men 
 boarded the steamer at Hong Kong for Canton," and as they acted suspiciously, the 
 authorities at Hong Kong telegraphed to the police office at Canton, and on their 
 arrival a large number' of them were put under arrest. 
 
 It was found afterward that barrels that had come through the customs 
 marked "cement" contained arms arid explosives, and that secret preparation 
 had been going on for months before these arrests were made. Their plan, 
 as afterward announced, was to capture the treasury, the residences of "the 
 viceroy and other officials, and to set lip a government after the style of "Western 
 nations. 
 
 The badge of the leaders was a red sash thrown over the shoulder and 
 knotted under the arm. They expected the soldiers and others to join them as 
 soon as their work of capturing and pillage began, and it is thought that many of 
 the restless element of the community would have joined them if they had made 
 any headway. A number of those arrested have been beheaded and rewards 
 are offered for the heads of others. _ 
 
 Socialists Suspected. 
 
 As early as the fifteenth of last July an Englishman by the name of Click, 
 who had been expelled from Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, because he was involved 
 in a seditious movement, leased a house in Canton, and he, with a German social- 
 ist by the name of Stauhhmann , lived in this place for months. Immediately after 
 the arrests were made and the uprising was nipped in the bud, these men suddenly 
 disappeared, and in the house in which they lived were found ammunition, dyna- 
 mite and other evidences of the fact that they were doubtless interested in the 
 success of the attempted rebellion. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 "5 
 
 Mr. Seymour, the United States consul, expressed to me the opinion that the 
 
 •affair is not entirely suppressed, and, with the aid of the many societies with 
 
 socialistic tendencies throughout the province, there may at any time be a general 
 
 uprising, which would elicit the sympathy and aidof thousands who are dissatisfied 
 
 with the present state of the government. There are clear-sounding mutterings 
 
 of the smashing of old foundations and crashing of present institutions throughout 
 
 the East. 
 
 Chinese Customs. 
 
 During my rambles through the cities, villages and farm lands of Southern 
 China I find that I have filled my note-book with brief accounts of Chinese 
 
 MRS. GRAVE'S AND MISS WHITE'S GIRLS' SCHOOI, AT CANTON, CHINA. 
 
 characteristics that have impressed me as being peculiar and which I cannot well 
 classify; so, before sailing for other lands, I shall give, in a disjointed manner, 
 these hurriedly made descriptions of a people who are, by far, more interesting 
 in their native land than anywhere else. 
 
 As most of the time I have had by my side on these tours foreign gentlemen 
 wbo have lived for years in the ' ' Celestial kingdom ' ' and who speak several of 
 
ii6 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 the dialects fluently, my opportunities for gaining correct information during 
 these weeks have been very gratifying. 
 
 One of the first things that attracts special notice is the, dress of a people, and 
 John Chinaman and family command your immediate attention in this respect. 
 
 Dress and Headgear. 
 
 The two necessities in all Chinese dress are the loose pair of trousers (the 
 foo) and the almost equally loose-fitting jacket (the sham); with these two 
 articles the Chinese is completely dressed, and if anything else is worn it is for 
 comfort or luxury. 
 
 The upper garment is worn long or short, plain or decorated, heavy or light, 
 according to the condition of the wearer or weather, and the balloon trousers are 
 carefully tucked into long stockings, neatly bound with garters below the knee, 
 and over these a pair of leggings is placed if the owner of these legs desires to be 
 finely dressed, or if he is afraid of catching cold in his nether parts. 
 
 A woman's trousers are similarly shaped, and instead of knickerbockers, 
 when they are dressed up, they wear something like the divided skirt, one 
 piece hanging in front down to the ankles and the other haiiging behind the 
 same way, and these are buttoned up at one side and open at the other, while 
 embroidery and pleats in vertical lines adorn them. In certains parts of the 
 empire, especially on and along the rivers in the interior, nature's garb appears 
 to be all sufficient, and one feature, at least, of the simple innocence of our parents' 
 lives in the Garden of Eden, is seen in its unadorned perfection. 
 
 Female Fancy. 
 
 The women of China have much more time at their disposal than our women, 
 oecause they do not have to select spring, summer, fall and winter bonnets or 
 hats. Their hair is combed and plastered with a gum; thus made up it. forms a 
 sufficient head-covering for the climate of Southern China, and in colder places a 
 handkerchief or broad band, either plain or embroidered, is often bound across the 
 forehead. 
 
 The men wear a skull-cap of satin for the most part, with a cord button of 
 red or black on the top, in the winter season, but go bareheaded in summer. 
 Large bamboo hats, about a yard in diameter, are worn to protect from the rain 
 and the rays of the sun. 
 
 The women, in every grade of life, wear earrings, some of which are as 
 brilliant as they are tremendous, and these ornaments seem to be more indispen- 
 sable than a woman's foo or sham. 
 
 The style of dress and the mode of doing up the hair, I notice, differ in 
 different parts of China, but the men's dress is very much the same wherever I 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 117 
 
 Have been. There is a severe modesty in the dress of Chinese women that is in 
 striking contrast to the state of semi-nudity that was seen frequently in certain 
 parts of Japan. Among women the process of binding the feet and the kind of 
 shoe worn vary very much in different places. Ordinarily the rich bind the feet 
 of their daughters at six or eight years, the poor at thirteen or fourteen, and 
 seldom are the feet 
 bound later than at 
 fifteen. 
 
 A Barbarous Practice. 
 
 One end of a ban- 
 dage, about two 
 inches wide and ten 
 feet long, is laid on 
 the inside of the in- 
 step; thence it is car^ 
 ried over the four 
 smaller toes, drawing 
 them down upon the 
 sole; then it passes 
 nnder the foot, over 
 the instep and around 
 the heel, drawing the 
 heel and toe nearer 
 together, making a. 
 bulge on the instep 
 and a deep notch in 
 the sole underneath; 
 thence it follows its 
 former course until 
 Ihe bandage is all ap- 
 plied, and the last end 
 is sewn firmly on the 
 nnderlying cloth. 
 
 Monthly, or oftener, the feet, with the bandages upon them, are put into hot 
 water and soaked. Then the bandages are removed, the dead skin is rubbed off, 
 the foot is kneaded more fully into the desired shape, pulverized alum is laid on 
 and clean bandages quickly applied. 
 
 The head physician in the Fat-Shun Hospital told me that frequently the 
 flesh becomes putrescent during the process of binding and portions slough off 
 
 BOUND FOOT OF Chinese; woman. 
 
"8 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 from the sole. Not infrequently a toe drops off, and lately lie was called in to see 
 a woman both of whose feet had become entirely dead from the lack of blood 
 circulation and had entirely dropped off. 
 
 While the feet are being formed they are useless; the victim sleeps on her 
 back; lying, crosswise on the bed, with her feet dangling over the side, and the 
 sensation is said to be like that of having the joints punctured with needles. 
 
 As I write I have before me a model of a bound foot. There is a notch in 
 the middle of the sole, deep enough .to conceal a silver dollar put in edgewise 
 across the foot. The four small toes are so twisted that their ends may be seen on 
 the inside of the foot below the ankle, and the broken and distorted bones of the 
 middle of the foot are pressed into a mass where the instep should be. The shape 
 is very much like a fowl's head, the big toe representing the bill. 
 
 The limb becomes a frightful and fetid thing, and below the knee there is 
 little beside skin and bones. The tiny ball of flesh is kept bandaged in alum pow- 
 der, the bandages are shortened one-half their first length, and black ones are 
 often put over the white ones. 
 
 Embroidered satin shoes, with brightly painted heels, are worn, and a neat 
 pantalette covers all but the toe. As you watch her toddle along, as if she was 
 walking on the points of needles, you cannot say with the poet: 
 
 " Her foot so ligM, lier step so true, 
 Scarce from the harebell brushed the dew." 
 
 Woman's Status. 
 
 WTien I protested against this barbarous practice to an intelligent Chinaman 
 he admitted all I said, then quietly reminded me of the tight lacing among the 
 European and American women, and inforined me that certain fashionable 
 foreign women, charitably disposed, drew up a lengthy protest against this 
 " outrage " some time since, and when they met in a hall to sign the paper some 
 of them were laced so tight that they found difficulty in leaning over to put their 
 signatures to the document! It depends largely upon our point of view whether 
 a thing is ' ' heathen ' ' or not. 
 
 The Chinese woman is not shut up in a harem, as in Turkey; she is not 
 degraded by polyandry, as in Thibet; she is not denied the possession of a soul 
 and the religious privileges of men, as in Burma, and she is not so demoralized 
 and humiliated as in Siam; yet she is not allowed to eat with her husband, she is 
 forbidden to walk with him, and she has no legal right to anything whatever, 
 apart from her male relatives. A husband may beat his wife to death and go 
 unpunished, but if a wife strikes her husband a single blow she receives a hundred 
 blows with a heavy bamboo, and he may be divorced from her. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 119 
 
 An infant girl is often engaged to be married by her parents; and a lady in 
 Canton told me that, on seeing a young man carrying a baby girl on his back, she 
 asked him whose child it was, and he replied that it was his future wife! 
 
 A Polite Peopre. 
 
 The system of etiquette of the Chinese is very elaborate, and the urbanity 
 and suavity of manner with which even the lower classes address one another 
 cannot be surpassed by any nation. 
 
 In talking to a man in a superior position the eyes must not be fixed on his, 
 but must rest on the button on the left lapel of his coat; when a room is entered 
 
 THE BEHBADING OF PIRATES NEAR. HONG KONG, CHINA. 
 
 where persons are seated-^it is not in good form to bow to each separately, but a 
 grave bow must be given first to the right and then to the left; the left hand is the 
 place of honor. 
 
 Politeness forbids you to ask a person to pay a debt, but it is quite the thing 
 to ask him to loan you the amount he owes and then never return it. It is quite 
 impolite to wear spectacles before a guest or superior. The Chinaman puts his 
 hat on to receive his guest, for appearing bareheaded before a visitor is considered 
 quite impolite. 
 
120 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Long finger-nails are badges of respectability. Instead of shaking hands, a 
 Chinaman clasps his two hands together, moving them up and down a few inches 
 in front of himself several times. 
 
 To remain seated while your superior or guest is standing is not tolerated in 
 polite society. 
 
 Sport and Superstition. 
 
 Although John Chinaman is a hard-working and industrious personage, you 
 need but saunter through the crowded streets of one of his cities to be convinced 
 that he is also fond of amusements. The theatres are crowded. The various 
 birthdays of the gods are hailed with delight. The annual regattas throughout 
 China of the dragon-boat feast, the full-moon festivals and the New Year holiday, 
 all are celebrated by games and great magnificence of ceremonial worship. 
 
 The Dragon Emblem. 
 
 At every turn in China you meet paintings, drawings and carvings of the 
 dragon, which is the imperial emblem of state. The dragon, which is reserved 
 for royal use in designs on furniture, porcelain and clothing, is depicted with five 
 claws; that in use by the common people has only four. It is thus described in 
 an old Chinese writing : "Its head is like a camel's, its horns like a deer's, its 
 eyes like a hare's, its ears like a bull's, its neck like a snake's, its scales like a 
 carp's, its claws like an eagle's, and its paws like a tiger's. Its scales number 
 eighty-one, being nine by nine, the extreme (odd or) lucky number. Its voice 
 resembles the beating of a gong. On each side of its mouth are whiskers, under 
 its chin is a bright pearl, and on the top of his head is the poh-shan, or wooden 
 foot-rule, without which he cannot ascend the skies." 
 
 This wonderful antediluvian creature is embalmed in the literature and 
 memory of the Chinese, and to it are referred nearly all the blessings and calami- 
 ties that come upon the people. 
 
 Harkets, Pood and Delicacies. 
 
 Many persons have a very erroneous notion about the food of the Chinese. 
 While I have seen dogs' , cats' and rats' flesh hung up in the market places in 
 Canton for sale, this is not a common sight. Pork, fish and fowls are abundant 
 in the markets, and beef is also seen. Rice and dried salt or fresh vegitables are 
 eaten at nearly every meal. 
 
 Noticing quite frequently a gelatinous substance at the groceries and other 
 stores, I was informed, on inquiry, that it was " bird's nest," and from it a soup 
 is made that is regarded a great luxury in China. These edible nests are built in 
 caves along the seashore. The birds, during the building time, assemble in 
 large numbers upon the beach, carrying in their beaks the foam thrown up by 
 
r 
 
 (I2IJ 
 
i2i AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 the surf, of which they construct , their glutinous nests, after it has undergone 
 some jireparation from commixture with saline or other secretions in the crop of 
 the bird. The bird is ca:lled " the foaming"swallow." 
 
 ' They say that the finest of these nests, when taken from these caves near the 
 sea, look like pure isinglass and bring as much as thirty dollars a pound. It is 
 thought to be very stimulating, and it forms the first dish at all grand dinners. 
 
 Capital Punishment, 
 
 In one of m3' walks through the city I visited the execution place, a small 
 plot of ground which can boast of more slain thaii many battlefields. The male- 
 factors are generally borne by coolies in ordinary dust-baskets to this place of 
 death. They kneel down in rows, bending their heads forward, with their arras 
 tied behind them, and then, with a single blow from a skillful executioner's 
 blade the head rolls to the ground. 
 
 A friend sent to me, among other photographs, two horrible companion 
 pictures. One taken of eight pirates just in the act of being beheaded; the other 
 just after the fatal blow had been given, as the heads and bodies were falling to 
 the ground. As the instantaneous process of photograph}^ was used, the expres- 
 sions are dreadfully lifelike, or rather deathlike. 
 
 Punishments inflicted for an infringement of the law are mainly flogging with 
 the bamboo, banishment for a limited time or permanently, and death by 
 strangling or decapitation. 
 
 Tlie Beggars' Guild. 
 
 Beggary in China is reduced to a fine art, and in all the large cities there is 
 an organization that is perfect in its system. The beggars are united under a 
 head, called the "king of the beggars," who is appointed by a guild, and each 
 day the contents of the baskets of these wretches in sackcloth is pooled. The 
 payment of a fixed sum to the "king" by any shop will secure immunity from 
 all visits of his subjects (the shopkeeper is given a certificate to this efiect, which 
 he hangs at his door) , otherwise the shop is visited daily by these creatures, who 
 are annoying and repulsive in the extreme. 
 
 One of the most pitiable things that I have learned . is that there is not an 
 asylum for the insane in the. Empire of China. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 LANQUAOE AND LITERATURE IN THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. 
 
 URING the weeks spent in China, I have taken special notice of 
 the dialects, literature and educational institutions of the empire 
 and, perhaps, some of the results of this necessarily superficial 
 study may be of interest to my readers. The philologist, in 
 his classification of languages, has been accustomed to place the 
 Chinese language in a position of its own, with no certain relationship 
 to other speeches of mankind; but through the labors of Edkins, 
 Schlegel and others there seems to appear some connection between Chinese and 
 the Aryan languages, while Terrien de Lacouperie and his colaborers insist that 
 there is a striking afiinity between the languages of China and Babylon. 
 
 Position is nearly everything in the construction of Chinese sentences, and 
 the relation of words is used by them to express what we, to a great extent, show 
 by case, mood, tense, number and person, and in addition to this relative position 
 of words the employment of auxiliary characters, and a general symmetry of 
 construction in the written language aid very much in the correct development of 
 ideas. 
 
 One who has studied the language for forty years at Canton assures me that 
 the Chinese is one of the simplest, while at the same time one of the most difficult 
 'languages in the world. Its simplicity consists of the almost entire absence of 
 ^inflexional forms; its difficulty consists of the combination of different dialects, 
 'so-called, under the one name of Chinese, as, for instance, the book language in 
 its two or three different forms, the colloquial or spoken language, in its different 
 j vernaculars and in its tones, the stumbling-block and ruin of most of those who 
 attempt to repeat i* 
 
 Styles of Writing. 
 
 In general, the language may be divided as follows: The ancient stjde, in 
 which the classics are written, which is concise and vague; the literary style, 
 which is more diffuse and poetical, and in which the essays of the candidates at 
 the governmental examinations are written ; the business style, which is void of 
 ornamentation and i^ used for commercial purposes, legal writings and official 
 documents, and the colloquial, the spoken language, which is divided into dialects 
 and which is very seldom used by a writer. From a literal translation of a 
 Chinese sentence that is before me, I agree with Marshman when he says: "A 
 Chinese character may in general be considered as conveying an idea without 
 
 (123) 
 
124 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 reference to any part of speech, and its being used as a substantive, an adjective 
 or a verb depends on circumstances. ' ' 
 
 We speak of the Chinese language being spoken in Canton, Shanghai, Foo- 
 chow and Pekin, but it is equally true that not one of the inhabitants from any 
 one of these places could understand those from the others any more than a 
 Parisian could understand a New Yorker, or a citizen of Berlin could converse 
 with one from Madrid. 
 
 Divisions of Speech. 
 
 Although there are the following main divisions of speech, commonly called 
 dialects — the Cantonese, the Hakka, the Amoy, the Swatow, the Hainanese, the 
 
 IMMEDIATELY AFTER BEHEADING OF PIRATES NEAR HONG KONG, CHINA. 
 
 Shanghai, the Ningpo and the Mandarin — yet we find that the dialect of one 
 district is not one homogeneous whole, and the variations are often so marked 
 between the colloquial of persons living only a few miles from each other that you 
 would think that they are speaking different dialects. 
 
 During my trips I have passed through little settlements that seemed almost 
 a law to themselves as to their speech, and the variety of pronunciation, the new 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 125 
 
 idioms and words used and tlie intonations puzzled my friend, who had been 
 speaking several dialects for years. In certain parts of China the language is said 
 to change every twenty miles, and an estimate has been made that there are as 
 many dialects and sub-dialects as there are days in the year. A thorough knowl- 
 edge of one of these main dialects may enable a person to be understood through- 
 out several provinces, but only imperfectly so. 
 
 The Handarin Tongue. 
 
 The Mandarin is the most widespread; it is supposed that three-fourths of the 
 people have some knowledge of it. All high oflScials are required to speak the 
 Mandarin, and those who are associated with the official class or aspire to office 
 must learn it. 
 
 Over two hundred years ago the Emperor Kang Hi established schools in 
 Canton and elsewhere throughout the empire, with the view of introducing a 
 uniform language in place of the numerous dialects, but his effiarts, which have 
 not been repeated, had no eflFect in hushing this confusion of tongues. In the 
 acquisition of any of these dialects four difficulties confront the student immedi- 
 ately, viz., the tones, the idiom, the classifiers and the multiplicity of verbs. 
 
 Puzzling Intonation. 
 
 The meaning of a Chinese word depends upon the tone. For example: 
 " Ngo," in one tone, means " I myself;" in another tone, "a goose." " Chu," 
 in one tone, means " I/)rd ;" in another, "pig." "Tin," in one tone, means 
 " heaven;" in another "field." " Sz," means "four," in one tone, and "dead" 
 in another. Ku," means an "orphan," "ancient," or "wages," according to 
 the tone given to it. Referring to the idiom some one has said: "Speak your 
 English sentence backward, and you will have a good Chinese sentence." 'While 
 this would not always prove to be correct, the order of our words is always 
 changed. For "How old are you?" the Chinese say: "You, this year, how 
 many years old?" For "Who did this?" they ask: " This is, what man has 
 done!" For "How long have you been here?" this is asked: "This place 
 you came how many years ?' ' A classifier precedes every noun whenever it stands 
 in relation to numerals. 
 
 Our words herd (in herd of cattle), sheet (in sheet of paper), piece (in piece 
 of silk), correspond exactly to these classifiers. They indicate to what class of 
 thing the noun belongs. For instance, " cheung" applies to things spread out, 
 as a tablecover, bed, mat, etc.; " chi" applies to things round and slender, as a 
 pencil, bamboo, etc.; "pa" is applied to things held in the hand, as an umbrella, 
 fan, knife, etc.; "tin" is put before long and slender things, as cane, snake, 
 string, etc. There are about eighty of these classifiers. 
 
126 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 nultiplicity of Verbs. 
 
 The multiplicity of the Chinese verbs is very noticeable. Take our word 
 " carry," which is used so generally. In Chinese, to carry on the head one verb 
 would be used; to carry on the shoulder an entirely different word would be used; 
 to carry on the back another verb would be used, and to carry under the arms 
 another; to carry on horseback still another, and to carry a letter a different word 
 would be employed. We say close your eyes, close your mouth, close your fist, 
 close your book, close your door, close your window; but in Chinese a different 
 verb must be used before each of these objects. We say to lay apart, to lay 
 
 before, to lay in, to lay down, to lay 
 on top, to lay together, to lay aside. 
 In Chinese a new verb must be intro- 
 duced in each one of these expressions. 
 
 At School 
 
 The Chinese that is spoken in 
 everyday life is as different from the 
 book language as a dead language is 
 from a living one. On visiting a 
 Chinese school I found that it could be 
 heard long before it was seen. Each 
 pupil learns his lesson off by heart, 
 repeating it over apd over again till 
 fixed in the memory, in a loud sing- 
 song tone of voice, and the confused 
 babel of sounds produced by a large 
 school of boys which I visited cannot 
 soon be forgotten. In the school and 
 collegiate course, extending over years, 
 the whole of the classics (the four 
 books and the five classics) and com- 
 mentaries upon them are mastered, 
 but geography, mathematics and the 
 sciences are unknown in a Chinese educational course. The effect of this S3'stem 
 is the development of the memory and imitative faculty at the expense of every- 
 thing else. No school boards exist, and schools are opened independently by 
 teachers to gain their living or established by the gentry, and there are higher 
 institutions of learning having the sanction and support of the government. 
 
 In education, as in everything else, no attention is paid to women, and while 
 it is an exception if a man cannot sign his name, it is the great exception if a 
 woman can sign hers. 
 
 A LITERARY OFFICER AND HIS WIFE. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 127 
 
 Civil Service Examinations. 
 
 The system of civil service examinations in China is quite unique in its charac- 
 ter, and nothing attracts the wonder and admiration of the foreigner more than 
 this. These examinations have been in vogue for centuries, and having originally- 
 started as a means of testing the ability of those already in office, it has gradually 
 widened its scope, till now it embraces every portion of the empire and is the test 
 of ability which all have to undergo who desire admission into the civil service of 
 the country. With this laudable ambition in view, pupils of all ages may be seen 
 pursuing their studies, and grandfather, fathet and son may be competing at the 
 same time for the coveted goal. 
 
 Degrees and Promotions. 
 
 Every district city has its examination hall, where the initial trials are 
 conducted under the supervision of the imperial chancellor, a sub-chancellor being 
 in residence. Out of every two thousand only twenty of the best receive the 
 degree which the Chinese term " Sin-ts'ai," meaning "budding genius." An 
 original poem and one or two essays by each candidate on the subjects assigned to 
 them are the exercises of this examination, and during a day and a night each 
 contestant is shut up alone in a "stall" (there are thousands of these around 
 the examination hall), after being examined to see that he has no "help" 
 about him, and if he becomes a member of the charmed literary circle, his hat is 
 adorned with a gold button; and he, is eligible to enter the triennial examination 
 for the second degree, styled tlie " Chu-jin," or " promoted scholar." 
 
 The examiners for this second test are the imperial commissioner and ten 
 provincial officers, and he who is successful in this can enter upon a contest for the' 
 third degree, which is taken at tlie capital, Pekin, and which assures to the 
 successful student an office under the. government. This mighty system, when 
 Western science is introduced, may be used as a means for the dissemination of 
 broader knowledge throughout this great empire. 
 
 Attempts at English. 
 
 I have noticed now and then evidences of a willingness on the part of the ; 
 members of this exclusive kingdom to allow the introduction of foreign ideas, and^ 
 I have been amused at their "attempts" at English. Mr. Wing Wo Hing, my 
 laundryman at Canton (the first one I have found in China), sent me the follow- 
 ing notice: 
 
 ' ' We the undersign wish to inform to the friends and the public that we have 
 opened a laundry out of North Gate, where we will have advantage to do all 
 works by using spring water and dried with pure air For times, launderers, who 
 have used river water and dried with city air which makes clothes unpurify and 
 
128 
 
 AROUND THE WORIyD 
 
 dissatisfy to the public ! " A few days ago I was startled by the following doctors' 
 
 signs: "Doctor to leprosy, nor doctor fee discharged," and, "^.Healer. Can 
 
 doctor to surgery line, 
 medicine line — All 
 kind illness dispensa- 
 t i o n" (dispensary). 
 Nor far from where I 
 am writing a fashion- 
 able merchant has this 
 sign in flaming letters 
 before his shop: " Re- 
 tail sxiA Wholetail ! " 
 As we have seen 
 the eflforts of the Chi- 
 naman to imitate the 
 language of the Eng- 
 lishman, we are in- 
 terested in observing 
 how John Bull first 
 secured an influence 
 over John Chinaman. 
 The Britisher 
 comes as near being 
 omnipresent as any 
 mortal on this terre- 
 strial ball, and his 
 motherland comes as 
 near having her flag 
 floating over a piece 
 of real estate under 
 every star as any na- 
 tion on the globe. 
 
 The oratorical 
 curl about the sun 
 never setting on Eng- 
 land's possessions is 
 not fiction. 
 
 The little island, 
 
 that looks like a speck on the world's map, has managed, by one way and another. 
 
 to plant her colonies in every clime; and from the homeland to far India and 
 
 HEAD OF A PIRATE HUNG UPON THE ROADSIDE AT CANTON, CHINA. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 129 
 
 China, her war and mercantile ships can touch British possessions at convenient 
 distances, without the line being broken during all these thousands of miles. 
 
 I desire especially to speak of Hong Kong, a British island in Eastern waters. 
 In the year 1839 the Chinese authorities took strong procedures against the foreign 
 opium merchants; British property was destroyed, a large number of foreigners 
 imprisoned, and every effort was made by the Chinese to put a stop to this traffic 
 that has proven to be such a curse to the nation. Matters were brought to a 
 crisis on the twenty-sixth of August, 1839, when foreigners were expelled from 
 the island, war was immediately declared, and, as might have been expected, 
 in less than two years the British flag was planted on the island, the Bogue forts 
 at the mouth of the Canton River were silenced by English guns and the provincial 
 authorities were forced to accede to the demands of a superior power by allowing 
 trade to be carried on at Canton and Whampoa. 
 
 How Hong Kong Became British. 
 
 The settlement of Hong Kong was commenced in May, 1841. The following 
 month Hong Kong was declared a free port, and before the close of the same year 
 the population had increased to 15,000. 
 
 But John Bull did not have smooth sailing for some years. The Chinese 
 Emperor severely censured the imperial commissioner for the cession of Hong 
 Kong, and war broke out afresh. It was not until after the treaty of Nanking, 
 in 1842, that it was definitely settled that the island should be a British colony 
 and the charter bears the date of April 5, 1843. 
 
 But during the coming years the trend of affairs proved, repeatedly, that one 
 John yielded to the other John simply because the one John was weaker than the 
 other John. Here, as in so many other places where she has planted her foot, 
 "the other John " acted on the principle that " might makes right " — especially 
 has this been her motto when she has been in the heavenly business of introducing 
 the opium trade — fit harbinger, indeed, to English Christian missions! 
 
 In October of 1856 some Chinese sailors serving on the British lorcha Arrow 
 were taken from the vessel b5r the native authorities, which led to the bombard- 
 ment and capture of the city of Canton and the cession of the peninsula of 
 Kowloong and the payment of an indemnity of eight millions of taels by the 
 Chinese government to England. 
 
 Although I am told by the English at Hong Kong that the colony is now 
 firmly established, I have it from the best authority that it is viewed with hatred 
 and suspicion on the part of the native mandarins, and the repeated riots and the 
 wholesale attempt to poison the entire European community by means of the 
 bread supplied by a Hong Kong baker, which occurred some years since, proves 
 that the situation is not altogether lovely. 
 
 9 
 
I30 AROUND THK WORI^D 
 
 The Island's Size and Sights. 
 
 The island, lying ofiFtlie coast of the Kwang-tung province, at the mouth of 
 the Canton River and about ninety miles from the city of Canton, consists of a 
 rugged mountain ridge, running from east to west, broken into several peaks, the 
 largest of which attain an altitude of over one thousand eight hundred feet. Its 
 greatest length is about eleven miles, with a breadth of from two to four miles and 
 a circumference of about twenty-seven miles. The word Hong Kong means ' ' fra- 
 grant streams," and long before the arrival of the English it was customary for 
 Chinese vessels to get their water supply from the sparkling springs that abound 
 throughout the island. As you approach the city from the harbor you are 
 reminded of Naples. The situation is truly a magnificent one. 
 
 Most of the houses near the beach are large and handsome structures, built 
 of granite and well calculated to withstand the force of the typhoons, which have 
 done much damage in the past. Broad roads, lined with trees, wind up the 
 hillside from terrace to terrace. The private residences are situated principally 
 •upon the hills, rising tier upon tier to the height of several hundred feet above the 
 sea level, and the large gardens, covered with a wealth of tropical plants and 
 flowers, give the landscape a charming effect from the sea. 
 
 The Public Gardens are said not to be excelled by those of any other British 
 colon}', and not only are they admirably laid out and managed, seemingly, with 
 scientific skill, but they boast a number of rare trees and plants. The palm beds, 
 the Australian ferns, the Norfolk Island pines, and the ornamental hedge formed 
 of the aloe attract, at once, the attention of the visitor. 
 
 Victoria Peak. 
 
 The most enjoyable excursion on the island is a trip to Victoria Peak. 
 
 This is reached by an elevated tramway, which is a work of great engineering 
 skill; and from its height, which is 1880 feet above the water, your vision sweeps 
 the full circumference of the island, the hill-locked harbor, dotted with every 
 variety of craft, from the ocean steamer and warship to the slipper boat and 
 sampan; and far into the distance, on the mainland,, can be seen numerous native 
 villages, built down to the water's edge; and still further away, with the aid of 
 your glass, you can count a score of islands, washed by the blue waters of the bay. 
 
 On the Chinese streets here, as elsewhere, one is bewildered by the countless 
 number of curios; for John Chinaman has studied the whim and fancies of the 
 ' outer barbarian," and goods are on exhibition to suit every taste. 
 
 Chinese Goods Displayed. 
 
 In a walk of two blocks you see elegant embroideries on silk and satin; 
 delicately carved ivory fans, ornaments, chessmen, and vases; walking-sticks of 
 
(131) 
 
132 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ebony, horn, ivory, and bamboo, with embossed silver knobs; fairylike bouquet 
 holders, and any variety of filagree work; goblets, card cases, flower baskets, 
 incense burners, and bangles, ear-rings, scarf pins and finger rings of intricate 
 workmanship; sandal-wood boxes, carved most artistically, and curiously cut horns 
 of the rhinoceros and water-bufialo, and inlaid ornaments made from the large 
 
 bony beak of the tou- 
 
 Some of the work 
 of the Chinese in sil- 
 ver is exquisite. A 
 chased and embossed 
 salver is very attract- 
 ive, as the design is 
 often wonderfully fine 
 and minute in detail. 
 Every little figure has 
 its own peculiar ex- 
 pression. The tiles on 
 the roofs of the houses 
 and tiny temples are 
 distinguishable one 
 from the other, and 
 even the construction 
 of the lilliputian 
 bridges is plainly vis- 
 ible. As skilled labor 
 is cheap in China, 
 these fine pieces of 
 workmanship can be 
 obtained for amounts 
 only very little larger 
 than the actual cost of 
 the silver itself. 
 
 Filagree Work. 
 
 The filagree work 
 is made somewhat dif- 
 ferently from that in 
 Southern Europe. 
 The silver frame work 
 
 CREMATORY AT CANTON, USED FOR BURNING THE BODIES OE 
 PRIESTS. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 133 
 
 is first cut out, and gold leaf and mercury are mixed together until they form 
 a paste. The frame is then warmed and the amalgam rubbed in, after which it is 
 made quite hot to drive off the mercury, and the gilding is finished. The filagree 
 is made of silver wire, extremely fine in texture, and designs of every description 
 are worked out by the expert Chinamen with this silver cord. 
 
 The Chinese shops on Queen's road, here in Hong Kong, are more elabo- 
 rately ornamented than most of their shops elsewhere, and although they are only 
 twenty feet deep by ten or eleven wide, they contain great variety of goods. 
 
 In the native quarters the salesroom is a dimly lighted, unattractive place. At 
 the back of the shop a little lamp is kept burning before some small image, 
 surrounded by paper flowers or pots of grow- 
 ing plants, such as the favorite narcissus or 
 the dwarf orange, and on the walls are fre- 
 quently to be seen scrolls containing extracts 
 from the writings of Confucius, Mensius, and 
 others, extolling the dealings of the honest 
 tradesman and comm.anding courtesy toward 
 strangers. 
 
 When you enter the shopman approaches 
 you indifferently, disguising all eagerness to 
 drive a bargain, salutes you with the greeting 
 "chin-chin," and only when he sees that you 
 hesitate in your purchasing does he seem to 
 awaken to the occasion and exhibit his genius 
 as a salesman. 
 
 Pidgin English. 
 
 CHIEF MAGISTRATE, SHANGHAI. 
 
 Pidgin English, a strange mixture of Eng- 
 lish, Chinese and Portuguese, is spoken by 
 most of the natives at Hong Kong, and it was not many days after my arrival 
 before it was understood by me sufficiently to serve me for all practical purposes. 
 
 Its basis consists of turning the consonants " r " into "1" and " v " into 
 "b," adding a final " ey " or " ee " to most words, and above all, the constant 
 use of the word "pidgin," which means business in the most extended sense 01 
 the word. ' ' Hab got good pidgin ' ' means that the business situation is a good 
 one. "To-day belongee number one Heaben pidgin day" is the conventional 
 phrase for a day of Christian observance. 
 
 "That no belongee boy pidgin, belongee coolie pidgin" is the form of your 
 servant's remonstrance if you ask him to do what he thinks ought to be done by 
 a servant of lower rank. 
 
134 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 Am, is, are, and the parts of the verb " to be " are generally translated by 
 " belongee;" " hab belongee "— was; and "by m-bye belongee "—shall be. 
 
 The word "side" is used for a particular locality: " Hong Kong side hab 
 
 FARMERS AND THEIR WIVES THRESHING RICE. 
 
 got too muchee piecee Chinaman ' ' means ' ' there are many Chinamen in Hong 
 Kong." 
 
 "No nan" is "impossible;" means "quickly;" "Chow-chow," "food," 
 and " chin-chin " is "good-day " or " good-bye." 
 
 ' ' I catchee dinner this side to-night ' ' is the expression for " I dine here 
 to-night." 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 135 
 
 I overheard this order and reply: " Boy, go talkee amah pay me one piecee 
 handkerchief. " " Missy, no can catchee amah ; have go out. ' ' 
 
 A gentleman in Hong Kong was interrupted in his work one day by his boy, 
 A I<in, who came into his office and gravely remarked: " Missy Smith hab got 
 one piecee small cow chilo." This was his graceful and delicate way of 
 announcing that Mrs. Smith had presented her husband with a daughter ! 
 
 The following verses in Pidgin English are more puzzling than poetic: 
 
 Flom Fou Chou Fou I come makey walkey, 
 
 One piecee ship, three piecee bamboo 
 Inside no belong, outside walkee 
 
 My plenty good sing, all plopper can do. 
 
 Chorus. 
 
 Hi zah-zah, chin chin chin. 
 Chow-chow welly good, mj' likee he. 
 Makee plenty sing song, savez by and bye. 
 Chinaman he plenty good, he laugh hizah. 
 
 Allee same you my face once whitey, 
 
 Wid welly long pigtail down him back. 
 Sailor man he come ashore, makey plenty fightee, 
 
 PuUy welly muchy hard makee face black. 
 
 Long time plenty work sampau coolie 
 
 Yangtzse river, way down Shanghai, 
 Me talkee lot pidgin, too muchee foolee, 
 
 Allee same pletty lady no likey I. 
 
 Lady cooky welly good, she likey chow-chow, 
 
 She lib way up topside house. 
 Cooky little pussy cat and little bow-wow. 
 
 Welly good pot stew, boiley wid de mouse. 
 
 Allee same pork pig, mj' likee chow-chow, 
 
 Too muchee big, no muchee small. 
 Topside darksky down came Chong Mow, 
 
 He makey stealy pig and chow-chow all. 
 
 Englissy consul welly much he talkee. 
 
 Puttee up him speccatel, makee look see. 
 Chop-chop policy man wellj- muchee walkee, 
 
 Chong Mow runnee, no catchee he! 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 IN THE nALAY ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 PHE map of the eastern hemisphere shows a number of large 
 and small islands between Asia and Australia, forming a 
 continuous group distinct from these great masses of land 
 and having very little connection with either of them. 
 
 These islands, situated upon the equator and washed 
 by the water of the tropical seas, enjoy a more uniformly 
 warm climate than any other part of the globe and teem 
 with natural productions, many of which are found nowhere else. 
 
 The giant flowers of RafB.esia, the great green- winged ornithoptera, the prince 
 among butterflies, the man-like orang-outang, and the brilliant birds of paradise 
 are seen here. 
 
 The Malay, having no home beyond this insular tract, is seen in his crude 
 and nude state, and as he possesses many marks of peculiarity, he presents many 
 points of interest to the student of mankind. 
 
 Your ship sails for weeks among these islands, and their several inhabitants 
 are often as little known to each other as are the native races of the northern and 
 southern continents of America. 
 
 The Malay archipelago extends for more than four thousand miles in length, 
 from east to west, and is about thirteen hundred miles in breadth, from north to 
 south. It contains three islands larger than Great Britain, and in one of them, 
 Borneo, all of the British isles might be set down, and they would be surrounded 
 by a sea of forests. 
 
 The Volcanic Belt. 
 
 One of the greatest volcanic belts upon the globe passes through the archi- 
 pelago, and it is said that earthquakes are of such frequent recurrence that in 
 many of the islands the years of these great shocks form the chronological epochs 
 of the native inhabitants, by the aid of which the ages of their children and the 
 dates of important events are determined. 
 
 By the eruption of Papandayang, in Java, during the last century, forty vil- 
 lages were destroyed; in the first quarter of this century 12,000 persons perished 
 by the lava and ashes that covered three hundred miles of sea and land, and 
 within recent years the island of Makiau, after two hundred years of perfect inac- 
 tion, suddenly burst forth, destroying nearly all of the inhabitants and playing 
 havoc for forty miles around. 
 
 (136) . 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 137 
 
 IVIalays and Papuans. 
 
 A noted ethnologist, differing from Humboldt and others, contends that the 
 natives of the archipelago belong to two distinct races, the Malays and Papuans, 
 and that they differ radically in physical, mental and moral character. The 
 Asiatic races include the Malays, all having a continental origin, while the races 
 of Papuan type, including all to the east of the former as far as the Fiji Islands, 
 are derived not from any existing continent, but from islands which now exist, or 
 recently existed, in the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 It was with pleasure, after spending Christmas and the opening of the new 
 year in Southern China, that I em- 
 barked 
 
 on the P. and O. steamship 
 ' ' Rosetta ' ' for these islands, and after 
 experiencing some rough sea weather, 
 caused by the currents from "the China 
 Sea northward, from the Malacca 
 Straits southward and from the Pacific 
 Ocean eastward, meeting at the en- 
 trance of the Gulf of Siam, I landed, 
 in fine spirits, at Singapore, the south- 
 ernmost point of Asia, located at the 
 mouth of the Malacca Straits. 
 
 Singapore is an island about thirty 
 miles in length and half as wide, con- 
 taining not much more than two hun- 
 dred square miles. 
 
 As we sailed up the picturesque 
 harbor scores of Malay boys and men, 
 nearly completely nude, in narrow 
 ' ' dugouts, ' ' rowed by our side, chat- 
 tering and jumping up and down like 
 monkeys, and as small coins were 
 tossed into the transparent water from 
 the moving ship they would dive for them and, without exception, the sinking 
 money was in the hands of one of these wonderful divers when they arose to the 
 surface of the water. 
 
 At times 3'ou could see these diving figures struggling fiercely among them- 
 selves under the clear water for the coin, and when the victor came up, holding 
 his closed fist in the air, they all sprang in their little boats, tumbling on the 
 waves, kicked the water out of them with one foot, exclaiming "Nay-a-yah!" 
 "Nay-a-yah!" ("One more!" "One more!"). 
 
 MALAY MAN. 
 
138 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Passing up the streets of Singapore the products of the island were seen on 
 every hand. Tapioca, cocoanut oil, gambia, lead, tin, indigo, coral, gutta-percha, 
 hides, gums, camphor and many like productions were being packed for shipment 
 on the outward steamer for the west, and the market stalls were brilliant with the 
 greatest variety of flowers and fruit. 
 
 Near the Equator. 
 
 It is. quite impossible to give a life likeness of the bright scenes that greet 
 you in this city, located less than a degree from the equator. 
 
 NATIVES OF SINGAPORE. 
 
 Here you find perpetual summer; here the almost naked natives give full 
 satisfaction to their pride and modesty by binding the scarlet handkerchiefs about 
 their heads and confining one thickness of narrow cotton cloth about their bodies 
 with flaming sashes. The pure white, hump-backed oxen, driven singly to 
 harness, move sedately through the streets, drawing a tremendous load, with a 
 tar-black Malay, wearing ear-rings, perched on top. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 139 
 
 Now 3'ou pass rows of houses built high up in the air upon stilts, to give 
 wide berth to snakes and other reptiles that abound in this region. Yonder the 
 wayside is bordered by the graceful rattan, the lofty cocoanut tree, ripening its 
 fruit in clusters at the top, the waving bamboo and the brilliant hedges of the 
 tropics. Here you see growing wild the wonderful fan-palm that springs up in the 
 exact shape of an outspread feather fan and reaches the height of forty feet. 
 The street peddler pleads with you to buy a dozen of his luscious pineapples for 
 ten or fifteen cents, and if you have no money you can run into the jungle nearby 
 and get a dinner of fruit, with no one to molest or make you afraid. 
 
 I know of no place on the globe where a person's food and clothes need cost 
 him so little as just here, and the people do not seem to be any less happy because 
 of this fact. 
 
 Products and People. 
 
 In the celebrated botanical gardens near the city are gathered together all 
 possible representatives of the trees, plants, fruits and flowers of the archipelago, 
 and these are surrounded by the most beautiful landscape gardening. 
 
 Within the limits of these gardens there thrive the bread fruit tree, palms, 
 dates, figs, mangoes, mangosteens; the acacia flamboyante, whose top boughs are 
 covered with scarlet flowers, with yellow centres; the stephanotis and alamanda 
 in full bloom; the Egyptian lotus; the Victoria Regia, growing upon a lake, with 
 leaves wide and strong enough to support a child upon the surface of the water, 
 and acres of tropical growths in the greatest variety and abundance. 
 
 The Sultan of Johore. 
 
 A mile beyond the gardens we visited one of the palaces of the Sultan of 
 Johore. The late Sultan died at Bailey's Hotel, London, a short time ago, 
 and the present ruler of the small kingdom separated from Singapore by a 
 narrow strip of water, is proving himself to be more progressive than the 
 former Sultan. 
 
 This young man, twenty-two years of age, was educated in England, and in 
 his European attire he looks more like an English swell than a "heathen" 
 chief. 
 
 It would be hard to find anywhere in the world as many kinds of people 
 gathered together in so small a space as you find in the community of Singapore. 
 The government, the garrison and the chief merchants are English; most of the 
 money-exchangers and mechanics are Chinamen; the boatmen, fishermen and 
 police are native Malays; the clerks and small merchants are largely Portuguese 
 of Malacca; the petty dealers and shopkeepers are the Klings of West India and 
 Arabs, who are Mahometans; the grooms and washermen are all Bengalees; the 
 money sharks are Parsees; the sailors and servants are mostly Javanese, and 
 
140 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 hundreds of traders in tin, lead, skins, shells and corals congregate here from 
 Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Sumatra and other islands of the archipelago. 
 
 Town and Suburbs. 
 
 The harbor presents a busy scene. Men-of-war and many trading vessels of 
 European nations, hundreds of Malay praus and Chinese junks and any number 
 
 of sampans and slip- 
 per-boats move over 
 the quiet waters of the 
 harbor. 
 
 The town com- 
 prises handsome pub- 
 lic buildings and 
 churches, Mahometan 
 mosques, Hindu tem- 
 ples , Chinese j o s s- 
 houses, massive Eu- 
 ropean warehouses , 
 queer old Kling and 
 Chinese bazaars and 
 long suburbs of Chi- 
 nese and Malay cot- 
 tages. 
 
 In the jungles, 
 uncomfortably near the 
 town, are to be found 
 wild beasts, and dur- 
 ing the night not sel- 
 dom can you hear the 
 roar of these unwel- 
 come neighbors. Sev^- 
 eral miles from the 
 hotel where I was a 
 guest you are shown 
 tiger-pits, carefully 
 covered over with 
 sticks and leaves, and 
 so well concealed that 
 there is danger of a person being entrapped unless he is watchful. They are 
 shaped like an iron furnace, wider at the bottom than the top, fifteen or twenty 
 
 MALAY CHILDREN. 
 
TRAVELER'S PALM, SINGAPORE. 
 
 (141) 
 
142 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 feet deep and a sharp stake was stuck erect in the bottom until in recent years, 
 when this was forbidden on account of an unfortunate traveler being killed by 
 falling on one. 
 
 A sail of twenty-eight hours from Singapore brought us to Penang, the most 
 
 northerly seaport of 
 the Malacca Straits. 
 
 This island, four- 
 teen miles long by 
 seven wide, is situ- 
 ated at the point 
 where the straits open 
 into the Indian Ocean, 
 one hundred miles 
 from the Island of 
 Sumatra, and the 
 town of Penang 
 nestles near the 
 water, with a back- 
 ground of thickly 
 wooded hills that cul- 
 minate in three moun- 
 tain peaks. 
 
 As our steamer 
 anchored a half a mile 
 from shore, we were 
 taken in a highly col- 
 ored native boat to 
 the landing-place, and 
 soon we were on a 
 crowded street of this 
 interesting little city. 
 The lithe and 
 graceful figures of the 
 men and women at- 
 tract attention imme- 
 diately, and frequently 
 as these nearly nude natives pose along the roadside they look like exquisite 
 works in bronze. The women, strange to say, are very fond of ornaments, and 
 with their ear-rings, nose-ring, arm and ankle bracelets present a most picturesque 
 appearance, which is heightened by their brilliant single garment. 
 
 GROUP IN MAI,AY ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
(M3) 
 
144 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The Cocoanut Tree. 
 
 Here is found the arcea palm, better known as the Penang tree, the source of 
 the betel-nut; but the place is noted especially as the headquarters of the cocoanut 
 tree. This growth is simply wonderful. We drove through a cocoanut tree grove 
 of 2000 acres, and the view of these lofty trees, keeping an upright position, with 
 
 the heavy loads in 
 their tufted tops, is 
 one of the most re- 
 markable sights in the 
 tropics. The tree gives 
 annually several crops, 
 without artificial cul- 
 tivation; three hun- 
 dred and sixty uses, 
 it is said, can be made 
 of its trunk, branches, 
 leaves, fruit and juice, 
 and there are over 
 twenty distinct spe- 
 cies of the fruit flour- 
 ishing in and around 
 the town. With the 
 rapidity of a monkey, 
 I saw a native climb 
 over forty feet to the 
 top of a tree, and, after 
 twisting off a cocoa- 
 nut, was on the ground 
 again in a few seconds. 
 After visiting the bo- 
 tanical gardens, the 
 fruit market, where a 
 basket of delicious 
 mangosteens was 
 bought, and after see- 
 ing a brilliant Malay 
 marriage and funeral procession, I set sail for Ceylon, where the spicy breezes 
 blow. 
 
 To the naturalist the islands of the Malay Archipelago present fields for his 
 researches which cannot be surpassed, if equaled, in the world. Beasts, birds 
 
 AN ORANG-OUTANG FROM PENANG. 
 
C 
 
 ^1 
 
 (145) 
 
146 
 
 AROUND THE WORIyD 
 
 and insects of every description are found in this insular group and many of these 
 are peculiar to this region of the globe. 
 
 The Orang-Outang. 
 
 The interest with which I watch the gyrations of a monkey is only exceeded 
 by the amusement afforded me by the performances of the orang-outang. Although 
 
 my taste may be fear- 
 fully at fault, I am bold 
 to say that nothing 
 here in the Malay Ar- 
 chipelago has given 
 me more real pleasure, 
 has inspired more 
 hearty laughs and has 
 furnished more food 
 for reflection than my 
 lengthy interviews 
 with his majesty, the 
 orang-outang of Bor- 
 neo. 
 
 I am not quite 
 sure whether he un- 
 derstood what I said, 
 to him, and it is 
 equally probable that 
 I did not understand 
 very much that he 
 said to me, but I was 
 impressed with the 
 fact that he was one 
 of the most intelligent 
 inhabitants of the is- 
 lands, with a keen 
 sense of humor and a 
 good fund of com- 
 mon sense, and when 
 
 AN ORANG-OUTANG FROM PENANG-THE TEMPERANCE QUESTION. ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ .^ 
 
 our touching farewell I, at least, felt like saying we meet to part, but may it be 
 that we part to meet again! Here are the native haunts of this great man- 
 like ape, and here you can see and study him untouched by the artificial and 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN". 
 
 147 
 
 detrimental influences of Mr. Barnum, Mr. Forepaugh and the other masters of 
 the circus ring. 
 
 The wide extent of lofty virgin forest is necessary to the untrammeled glory 
 of his orang-outangship, and here he is as much at home as the Indian on the 
 prairie or the Arab on the desert. The quiet leisure, if not the majestic dignity, 
 with which he makes his way through the forests aifords a stinging rebuke to the 
 fussy, fuming, dashing citizen of this electric-car age in which we live. 
 
 He walks deliberately along some of the larger branches of the trees in the 
 semi-erect attitude which the great length of his arms and the shortness of his 
 legs cause him naturallj' to assume; and as he walks on his knuckles, and not on 
 
 PAPUAN CHII,DREN. 
 
 the palm of the hand, the disproportion between these limbs is increased, and 
 while in locomotion it is not highly probable that a Grecian artist would select him 
 as a model of grace. 
 
 He does not jump or spring or even appear to hurry himself, and yet he 
 manages to make as quick speed as one who is running through the forests 
 beneath. 
 
 The male orang-outang, unlike his inconsiderate human brother in America, 
 helps his wife make up the bed. When wounded or when bedtime comes a nest, 
 or bed, is quickly made from the sticks and leaves of the trees, and one who has 
 
I4S AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 hunted this animal a great deal tells me that a fresh one is made every night. 
 I^ike the other natives of these islands, he takes life easy, not leaving his bed 
 until the sun has well risen and has dried the dew on the leaves, feeding during 
 the middle of the day, and never seeming to worry himself upon the grave ques- 
 tions of state, commerce and religion that create headaches and heartaches for the 
 more civilized, but less contented, nations of the globe. 
 
 They are not only easily satisfied, as is well known, in the matter of clothing, 
 but their diet is a very simple one, consisting almost exclusively of fruit, with 
 some tender buds and shoots for occasional dessert. 
 
 Despite the jokes that we are prone to make at his expense, the orang-outang 
 is an elevated character. Pie rarely descends to the ground except when the 
 market in the trees has failed him, or when the hollows of the leaves do not 
 contain sufficient water for his refreshment. 
 
 Although the orang-outang is peacefully inclined and desires everybody to 
 attend to his own business, as he does, yet he is no coward, and when aroused by 
 what he regards to be an act of injustice or persecution he is a terror. When 
 driven by hunger to hunt shoots and roots along the water's edge the crocodile has 
 been known to protest against this innocent mode of making his living, but he has 
 in every case recorded in history established his rights without much ceremony. 
 
 The chief of the Balow Dyaks gives this testimonj' : ' ' The orang-outang has 
 no enemies; no animals dare attack it but the crocodile and the python. He 
 always kills the crocodile by main strength, standing upon it, pulling open its 
 jaws and ripping up its throat. If a python attacks the orang-outang he seizes 
 it with his hands and then bites it, and soon kills it. There is no animal in the 
 jungle so strong as he." 
 
 It is remarkable that an animal so peculiar and possessing such a high type 
 of form as the orang-outang should be confined to two islands, Borneo and Java, 
 especially as these are almost the least inhabited by the higher mammalia. 
 
 As doubtless the orang-outang, the chimpanzee and the gorilla have had their 
 forerunners, the naturalist must look forward with interest to the time when the 
 deposits of the tropics shall make known the historj' and earliest appearance of the 
 great man-like apes, who, if they are not the "missing links," are ridiculously 
 like some of us who make sport of them ! 
 
 A Brilliant Bird. 
 
 In striking contrast to the curious and comical creature just described, allow 
 me to present a brilliant and beautiful bird, another inhabitant of these islands, 
 namely, the bird of paradise. 
 
 The paradiseidae, as they are classed, are a group of birds allied somewhat in 
 their structure and habits to starlings and the Australian honeysuckers, but they 
 
WITH KYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 149 
 
 are characterized by extraordinary developments of plumage, which are unequaled 
 in any other family of birds. 
 
 In some of the species large tufts of delicate bright-colored feathers spring 
 from each side of the body beneath the wings, forming fans or shields, and 
 the middle feathers of the tail are often elongated into wires, twisted into the 
 most fantastic shapes or adorned with the most brilliant metallic colors. We find 
 that in other species these plumes spring from the head, the back or the shoulders, 
 and the tails are of varied shapes. 
 
 I had no idea, until I visited the Malay archipelago, that there are as many 
 species of the bird of paradise as are 
 to be seen on the Islands of Borneo 
 and Java. The great bird of paradise 
 the lesser bird of paradise, the red 
 bird of paradise, the king bird of para- 
 dise, the double- mantle bird of para- 
 dise, the superb bird of paradise, the 
 six-shafted bird of paradise, the stand- 
 ard wing bird of paradise, and the 
 scale-breasted paradise bird, are all 
 marked by different colored and shaped 
 plumage, and although thej^ are classed 
 under the same general name, they 
 are quite distinct in manj' respects. 
 
 It has afforded me much pleasure 
 to gather, from one source and another, 
 a great deal of information about this 
 the most beautiful bird in the world, 
 but I shall try to describe only two or 
 three classes of the bird, which may 
 give your readers a faint conception of 
 their beauty and brilliancy. 
 
 The largest species known is the 
 great bird of paradise, which is seventeen or eighteen inches from the beak to the 
 tip of the tail. The entire top of the head and neck is a delicate straw-yellow, 
 the feathers resembling plush or velvet; the lower part of the throat up to the 
 eyes is clothed with scaly feathers of an emerald green color, with a rich metallic 
 gloss, and velvety plumes of a still deeper green extend in a band across the fore- 
 head and chin as far as the eyes, which are bright yellow, and the body, wings 
 and tail are of a rich coffee-brown, which deepens on the breast to a blackish-violet 
 or purple-brown. 
 
 KANDYAN CHIEF OR HEADMAN. 
 
ISO 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The two middle feathers of the tail have no webs at all except at the base and 
 extreme tip, and from each side of the body beneath the wings springs a dense 
 tuft of long and delicate plumes, sometimes two feet in length, of the intensest 
 golden orange color and very glossy, changing toward the tips into a pale brown. 
 The thick tuft can be elevated and spread out at pleasure so as almost to hide the 
 body of the bird. 
 
 This brilliant plumage, strange to narrate, is entirely confined to the gen- 
 tlemen, while the lady is really a very plain and ordinary-looking bird of a 
 uniform coffee color, possessing neither the long tail wires nor a single green or 
 yellow feather about the head. As might be expected, the male birds do most of 
 
 the talking, and their shrill note, 
 ' ' wawk-wawk-wawk- wok-wok- wok, ' ' 
 can be heard for miles, but what do- 
 mestic experience occasions this alarm- 
 ing cry of the husband the naturalist 
 has not yet informed us. 
 
 The mode of nidification is un- 
 known, but the natives inform us that 
 the nests are made of leaves, placed 
 on ants' nests or some projecting limb 
 of a tall tree, and each nest contains 
 only one bird. 
 
 The birds are shot with blunt 
 arrows, so as not to injure the plu- 
 mage by a drop of blood, and thej' are 
 stuffed b3'' the natives with the greatest 
 care. 
 
 The side plumes of the red bird 
 of paradise, instead of being yellow, 
 are rich crimson, and the ends are 
 curved downward and inward and are tipped with white. The rich metallic green 
 of the throat extends over the front half of the head beyond the eyes and a 
 double crest of scaly feathers is formed on the forehead. 
 
 Perhaps the rarest and most brilliant of the whole group is the superb bird 
 of paradise. 
 
 The ground color of the plumage is intense black, with beautiful bronze 
 reflections on the neck, and the whole head covered with feathers of brilliant 
 metallic green and blue. It supports a shield over its breast of a bluish-green 
 color, with a satiny gloss, and back of the neck it bears another shield, much 
 larger, of a velvety black color, glossed with bronze and purple. At first sight 
 
 A KANDYAN GIRL. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 151 
 
 the plumage of the six-shafted paradise bird seems to be black, but in certain 
 lights it glows with bronze and deep purple; its throat and breast are of a golden 
 hue, changing to green and blue tints; the back of the head contains a curved 
 band of feathers, resembling the sheen of emerald and topaz more than organic 
 substance, and from the sides of the head spring the six feathers from which the 
 bird receives its name. 
 
 But as my vocabulary of color names is about spent, I must cease the futile 
 attempt to give a word-painting of this bird, clothed by nature with all the hues 
 of the rainbow. 
 
 PEARI, FISHERIJJS OF C«YI,ON. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 THE SPICY BREEZES OF CEYLON. 
 
 OME years ago I was in the Louvre Gallery in Paris, and I was nearly 
 as much interested in watching the performances of some of the 
 visitors as I was in the great masterpieces. To have the pleasure of 
 saying afterward that thej' had seen these miles of pictures, seemed to 
 be the object of many who were hurrying through the galleries, and 
 "to do " the whole thing in a few hours appeared to be a greater 
 masterpiece to some than any work that hung on the walls. 
 The tourist who desires merely to trot around the globe can touch at the 
 Japan and China treaty ports, sail through the Malay archipelago, take one sniff 
 of the spicy breezes at Ceylon, da-sh through the wonders of India, from Bombay 
 hurry on to Egypt, scratch his initials on the pyramids, take a leap, skip and a 
 jump through Europe, and look upon the Statue of Liberty again in a few months. 
 His friends, laboring under the delusion that this quick-step globe-trotter has seen 
 the world, heartily congratulate him, and he is blissfully ignorant of what he has 
 missed. 
 
 Roughing It. 
 
 As in other countries, it is quite impossible to get the faintest idea of the 
 topography, the flora, and the fauna of Ceylon, and the customs and habits of the 
 people, unless you, at any inconvenience, visit the villages and jungles of the 
 interior. 
 
 The engagements of my pleasant companion from Baltimore necessitated him 
 to leave me in Southern China, and about six weeks were spent largely by me in 
 ' ' roughing it ' ' among the natives, miles from the sea coasts. As a few days were 
 quite sufficient to see the sights of Colombo, I soon took train across the island 
 of Ceylon, and after fours' ride the old historic city of Kandy was reached. 
 
 In Ceylon's Forests. 
 
 The talipot palm, found in Ceylon, grows to the height of seventy or eighty 
 feet; at the age of forty years it blooms, for the first time, with a loud report, and 
 almost immediately dies. 
 
 During this railroad trip we passed cinnamon gardens, sweetly fragrant, not 
 from the bloom or berry, but from the wounded bark while being gathered at the 
 semi-annual harvest. Then followed widespread coffee plantations, the cultiva- 
 tion of which formed one of the greatest industries of Ceylon, until it was 
 
 (152^ 
 
TALIPOT PAI.M. 
 
154 
 
 AROUND THE WORI,D. 
 
 suddenly checked some years since by the leaf fungus that impoverished so 
 many of the planters. In dense forests we had pointed out to us fine speci- 
 mens of the ebony, satinwood, palms, bamboos, fragrant balsams, tree ferns, 
 anaconda-like-rooted India-rubber trees, and the bread-fruit tree, with its deeply 
 serrated, feathery leaves and its melon-shaped fruit, weighing from three to four 
 pounds. 
 
 This bread-fruit is prepared for eating in many ways, a few trees supporting 
 a large family, and, as the trees be^-r fruit continually for nine months of the year, 
 it is one of the most valued trees found in these tropical forests. 
 
 DR. TUPPER AND MR. HARMON. IN CEYI.ON. 
 
 I was very much interested in the cardamon and pepper bushes, loaded with 
 fruit, and what is known as the kitool palm, yielding its harvest of sugaf, toddy 
 and sago. 
 
 My companion in the coach, who is an enthusiastic and lifelong student of 
 birds, explained the peculiar nest of the tailor bird, which sews leaves together 
 and constructs a pretty nest inside of them; the weaver bird's nest, with entrance 
 tubes over two feet in length, and the pendant nests, built by a kind of wasp, in 
 the high trees. 
 
TAWPOT PALM. 
 
 (155) 
 
156 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D. 
 
 On the ilountains. 
 
 Fifty miles out from Colombo we entered the grand mountain plateau and 
 ranges of the interior, where lies the territory comprised within the Kandyan 
 Kingdom, which maintained its independence all through the Dutch and Portu- 
 guese eras, until the British conquered it in the year in which Waterloo was fought. 
 
 As the train slowly climbed into the mountains, the terraced rice fields, in 
 vivid green, looked like giant stairways up the mountain side, covered with 1;heir 
 
 two-whee;i< bdi<i,ock cart. 
 
 verdant carpets, and presented a striking contrast with the darker coloring of the 
 plantations and jungles. While we were passing around "Sensation Rock," to 
 the left, only a narrow path was visible, and the coaches seemed to tremble on the 
 edge of the abyss. A thousand feet below, the irrigated valleys stretched far in the 
 distance, and towering above the other peaks, with no background save the flushed 
 evening sky, was the " Bible Rock," as if waiting silently for the finger of the 
 Creator to write upon it a new commandment. 
 
(.■57) 
 
158 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The City of Kandy. 
 
 As we pursued our serpentine way the city of Kandy could be seen miles 
 away, perched in a basin of the mountains, 200 feet above the level of the sea. 
 My window in the Queen's Hotel looks out upon a lake three miles in circumfer- 
 ence, built by the last Kandyan king, and around its clear waters has been laid 
 out a beautiful drive, which is alive every afternoon with every variety of vehicle, 
 from the two-wheel bullock cart of the Singhalese to the four-in-hand coach of the 
 European, who has his short yearly residence in this picturesque spot. 
 
 CART IN CENTRAI, CEYLON, 
 
 Quite contrary to my usual custom, I arose early the first morning of my stay 
 in Kandy and, during a walk of several miles in the neighboring jungles, I gath- 
 ered fifteen varieties of wild flowers, many of which I had not seen in my rambles 
 nearer the seacoast. During this walk I became interested in many things beside 
 the abundance of the flora. Noticing a coarse cloth bag hung from the limb of a 
 iree, which was being swung by a stout native man, American-like, I made an 
 examination and found that the thoughtful husband was rocking the new-bom 
 baby to sleep, while the wife was cracking rocks on the roadside. The father 
 looked very much bored, but the mother appeared quite contented. As long as 
 
<! 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 z 
 
 o 
 
 « 
 
 (159) 
 
i6o AROUND THE WORIyD. 
 
 the baby was in the bag asleep I should think that he would be as willing to take 
 care of it as to crack rocks. 
 
 Women and girls were met carrying children astraddled their hips, instead of 
 on their backs, as elsewhere in the Kast, and whole families were seen taking their 
 morning baths at the street pump. Men, I noticed, were honest enough to reveal, 
 rather than conceal, their natural vanity by wearing brilliant nose- and ear-rings, 
 while the women, true to nature, were more modest in this respect. Washermen and 
 washerwomen were gathered by scores along the banks of a mountain stream, 
 washing the clothes of Europeans by rubbing them in the water and beating them 
 with rods, while they were stretched out afterward on great, flat rocks. The early 
 fruit-seller was on the streets with his basket of cocoanuts for a few pennies and 
 his bunch of fifty bananas for ten cents. 
 
 A short drive from ^he hotel brought us to the celebrated botanical gardens, 
 which are said to contain 25,000 species of plants, and after spending hours 
 driving over miles of avenues that are bordered and overhung by tropical growth, 
 I was prepared to believe the statement of the Cej'lonese, that here is found the 
 finest collection of plants in the world. 
 
 The name of Kandy is associated with the ancient temple of Maligawa, or 
 the Temple of the Tooth, where the sacred tooth of Buddha has been preserved, 
 it is said, for more than fifteen hundred years. Because of this precious relic, the 
 king and priests of Burmah and Siam continue to send valuable gifts to the temple 
 annually; and the sacred bo tree, near by, is reported to be the oldest historical 
 tree in the world, its record having been kept since three hundred years before the 
 Christian era. 
 
 The reputed tooth of the great Buddha is about the size of the tusk of a large 
 boar, and is enclosed in an immense casket, decked with costly gems. What a 
 terror this grinder would be to modern dentists, and how we shudder to think 
 that perhaps the founder of Buddhism woke up one night with an ache in this 
 identical monster of a tooth. 
 
 An enjoyable day was spent in driving through the tea plantations near the 
 cit}', and visiting a tea factory, where I was shown the " stages " of the tea from 
 the time that it comes fresh from the field until it is ready for the foreign market. 
 Tea grows vigorously in Ceylon from the southwest coast districts up to planta- 
 tions 6500 feet above sea level; and the higher the altitude the more delicate are 
 the teas produced, but less the crop per acre. 
 
 Ceylon Tea Cultivation. 
 
 The Ceylon tea cultivation is different from that found in Japan and China, 
 and it is claimed that the purest article on the market is shipped from this island. 
 The tea bushes are planted in lines at regular distances over large tracts of land, 
 
TKA HI,OSSOM AND SEED, 
 
 (i6i) 
 
162 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 carefully drained, which is weeded every month. Once a year the bushes are 
 pruned down to a height of about two feet, and two months after the pruning the 
 first "flush " of young shoots is ready to be plucked, and during the height of 
 the season the flushes reoccur every ten days. Natives, mostly women and girls, 
 with small baskets attached to their girdles, go round and pluck the bud and a 
 couple of the tender, half-developed leaves. Twice a day the gathered leaves are 
 weighed and taken into the factory, where they are spread thinly on trays or 
 shelves to wither. 
 
 The withered leaf is now placed in the rolling-machine, driven by water or 
 steam, the rolling lasting for half an hour, and from the moist mass of twisted and 
 bruised leaves there freely comes the juice, technically called "the roll." The 
 roll is placed in trays to ferment or oxidize, and during this process it changes 
 from a green to a copper color. After fermentation, upon which depends the 
 subsequent strength and flavor of the tea, the roll is thinlj^ spread on trays and 
 placed either over charcoal stoves or in large iron drying-machines, and in less- 
 time than an hour it is thoroughly crisp and dried. 
 
 The tea is now sorted or sized bj^ being passed through sieves of different 
 meshes, giving the varieties of Pekoe, broken Pekoe, Souchong, Congou and 
 dust. Then comes the final processes of weighing, packing and shipping. In 
 Ceylon much more attention is given just now to the production of tea than of 
 coffee and spices, and while in 1873 the exports of tea from the island were only 
 twenty-three pounds, in 1895 they were 40,000,000 pounds, and 150,000 acres are 
 under cultivation, with 700 European planters and 165,000 Indian and Singhalese 
 laborers engaged on the tea plantations of Ceylon. 
 
 The riarriage Ceremony. 
 
 I,ate on Sunday night I received a ' ' chit ' ' from a friend telling me of a swell 
 Singhalese wedding that was to occur next morning, and suggesting that I get 
 my tea and toast by six o'clock and be ready for the carriage that would be at my 
 door at 6.30, as the marriage festivities would last all day. 
 
 The early morning drive of ten miles along the beach, with the blue Indian 
 Ocean to my right, and the green-tufted cocoanut trees to my left, was refreshing 
 and delightful, and just as the music on the tom-tom at the bridegroom's house 
 was well begun we passed through the throng of people on the street and the 
 crowd of relatives of the groom in the fi-ont room. We were ushered into a com- 
 partment which was decorated most elaborately with pictures of Buddha, the 
 royal family of England, actresses and celebrated brands of American tobacco. 
 In the centre of the room was a huge flower-covered cake, to be presented at the 
 proper time by the groom to the bride. The cousin of the bridegroom took us in 
 charge, and as he spoke English very well, his explanations during the day threw 
 
(i63) 
 
164 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 light upon many of the mysteries of this marriage, according to the complicated 
 rites of the Buddhist religion. 
 
 It is the custom for the relatives only of the groom to gather before the mar- 
 riage at his father's house, and as these numbered several hundred, we were 
 entertained by watching these Singhalese men, women and children, some in 
 native, and others in half-European costumes, gathering in the rooms preparatory 
 to taking up the march for the house of the bride's father. 
 
 Six married women, nearest related to the groom (with the exception of his 
 mother, who was not seen during the performances), were ushered in with great 
 pomp, and I am quite sure that Barnum's agent never caught anything alive so won- 
 derful as these painted, brilliantly costumed, powdered creatures ! My self-appointed 
 informer whispered to me that it was the first time that these women had tried to 
 dress like Europeans and Americans, and when I quietly said "remarkable," he 
 seemed quite satisfied with the effect' produced. 
 
 The flower girls from the groom's house were dressed in bright bodices, 
 white skirts, flaming red stoekingSj and, as it was a dry, hot day, several of them 
 were shod with brand new, shining rubbers! But some of the party were sensible 
 enough not to try to imitate Western dress, and these looked attractive and 
 graceful in their hatte, cambaya and kabakumththu. 
 
 When the groom appeared in the handsome Singhalese dress worn by the 
 upper classes, everyone rose, shook hands with him, and the march was begun for 
 the bride's home. Our carriage was placed next to the one containing the happy 
 young man, and with him we equally divided the attention of the groups on the 
 corners, who were expecting to see only the relatives of the groom and Singhalese 
 followers of Buddha. 
 
 For four miles along the beach of the Indian Ocean, through cocoanut and 
 palm groves, and along the cinnamon gardens, we moved slowly until sud- 
 denly there burst upon our ears the noise of many voices and the clatter of the 
 tom-tom, and our carriages were surrounded by the relatives of the bride, who 
 gave evidence of their joy by the indescribable movements of their bodies and 
 heads and the clapping of their hands. 
 
 A white cloth was stretched over several hundred yards from the door of the 
 house, white canopies were held aloft by gayly dressed young women; the father, 
 uncles, brothers and other male relatives of the bride came forward in stately 
 procession; several tom-toms, each surrounded by five vigorous persons, gave 
 forth the most excruciating music; the female relations of the bride from near and 
 far, dressed, if possible, more remarkably than the females of the other house, 
 gathered in the front rooms, and after the bride had been adorned in a lace 
 jacket brought her by the bridegroom, which was placed over her other bridal 
 attire, she was led in, and for more than an hour she sat upon an elevated seat, 
 
(i65) 
 
1 66 
 
 AROUND XHE WORLD 
 
 made for the purpose, in the centre of the room— the bashful, if not blushing, 
 object of the cruel scrutiny of curious eyes. 
 
 The girl bride had just passed her fourteenth year; her white satin costume 
 
 fitted not much better 
 than the clothes of 
 English women; her 
 poor cramped feet 
 looked little at ease in 
 the white slippers, and 
 her long bridal veil, 
 with the price tag 
 still on it, was fast- 
 ened to her jet-black 
 hair with silver pins 
 and white, red and 
 pink flowers, and 
 hung gracefully over 
 her hazel-brown face. 
 After the scruti- 
 nizing process was 
 over, and all the 
 members of the two 
 houses had examined 
 her from every point 
 of view, the bride was 
 helped from her chair 
 by the married women 
 of the groom's house, 
 and she was soon 
 standing with her 
 lover on a raised mat, 
 covered with white 
 cloth, in the large 
 middle room, in the 
 immediate presence of 
 their maternal uncles. 
 The marriage 
 
 ceremony, according to the religion of Buddha, was commenced by the senior 
 uncle; parts of it were repeated by the younger uncles; the thumbs of the couple 
 were tied together with white cord, over which was poured cold water; the cords 
 
 TAMUS, CEYI<ON. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 167 
 
 were untied, and the groom placed two rings on the bride's finger and she 
 put two rings on his. The gray-haired father of the groom then waved over the 
 pair a tray containing lighted tapers, and the Buddhist ceremony was closed with 
 words of advice to the new-made husband and wife and with the announcement 
 that presents were in order. The young husband presented his wife with a satin 
 dress and jacket, which were put on her publicly by two women, who looked like 
 they had been kissing the inside of a flour-barrel. The bride's father gave to his 
 
 TEA PACKING AND WEIGHING. 
 
 son-in-law a pile of rupees (a rupee is about twenty-seven cents of our money), 
 which were counted and the amount — six hundred and five — was announced, and 
 a tract of land as a dower, and then smaller presents followed. 
 
 After a general hand-shaking, which was the only mode of congratulation, 
 the procession moved ofi" toward the ofiice of the registrar, where the record of 
 the marriage was made according to English laws. The proposition that I made, 
 through my interpreter, to have a photograph taken of the bridal party, was 
 
1 68 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 agreed to most heartily by the young couple, and at the groom's house, in 
 the afternoon, an obliging photographer secured excellent views of the merry 
 crowd. As I was bidding farewell to them a cousin of the bridegroom, to whom 
 
 I had been speaking 
 of certain customs in 
 America, said to me 
 in broken English : 
 ' ' I have fixed it for 
 you, if you like, to 
 give kiss to the bride. 
 Would you like?" 
 I shall not give to 
 the public my reply. 
 
 The Wild Hen of 
 Ceylon. 
 
 Far back in the 
 central and eastern 
 provinces of Ceylon, 
 away from all civil- 
 izing influences, is 
 found a class of hu- 
 man beings that live 
 very much like the 
 beasts of the forest, 
 and from their ap- 
 pearance, c u s t o nis 
 and language the 
 conclusion has been 
 reached that they are 
 the aborigines of the 
 country. 
 
 They live on the 
 game they kill, the 
 fish they catch, the 
 roots and seeds of 
 certain aquatic plants 
 
 LOW CASTE TAMIL GIRL. , . , , 
 
 and J ungle plants and 
 creepers. The wild forests in which they live abound in elk, deer, hogs, monkeys, 
 porcupines, iguanas, peacocks and jungle fowls, all of which they kill with their 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 169 
 
 "bows and arrows except the iguana, which they run down with their dogs. The 
 steaks from the larger animals they dry in the sun, and these are eaten raw, with 
 salt. The rotten wood of a tree called bala is beaten to powder, kneaded into a 
 paste with honey and baked into cakes, which serve them as bread. It is said 
 when all other means of sustenance fail them they boil the leaves of the kora 
 or tora trees, which grow abundantly everywhere in the jungle. They never 
 use firearms, but the bows and arrows are used with great skill, with which they 
 kill the bear, the panther and other formidable animals. 
 
 MT. I,AVINIA HOTBI,, COLOMBO, CEYI,ON. 
 
 These wild men never smoke, they know nothing of intoxicating drinks and 
 drink nothing but water. Some of them live in trees, and if they have huts they 
 are constructed in the rudest manner, composed of a mere roof of three or four 
 sloping poles, one end of which is placed in the ground and the other end is 
 supported by a cross-stick placed on two perpendicular ones. The huts are covered 
 with bark of trees or dried grass. As they seldom stay more than two or three 
 months in one place these stick and grass houses can easily be removed. 
 
170 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 The men wear a string round their middle, with a narrow piece of cloth 
 attached; the women wear a cloth something like an apron; the hair of both sexes 
 is never cut, their bodies are never washed except by the rain, and they never 
 have been known to laugh. 
 
 The Devil Dances. 
 
 The use of medicine is not known among them, and in case of sickness the 
 demon priest is sent for, who leads what is known as the devil dances around the 
 sick person, chanting certain incantations, which are supposed to propitiate the 
 demon who is causing the illness. No respect is paid to the dead; the body is 
 
 thrown into the jungles to be de- 
 voured by the wild beasts, and, as far 
 as it has been ascertained, they have 
 no notion at all of a future state. 
 
 The class known as the hill Ved- 
 das is of a savage and ferocious dis- 
 position. They dress only in a small 
 apron of plaited leaves; the women 
 are scarcely ever seen, and they dwell 
 in the deepest recesses of the woods 
 or among the rocks in the hill country, 
 living entirely on what nature affords 
 them, especially roots, leaves and bugs. 
 
 Trade with Outsiders. 
 
 I am told that they obtain the 
 iron heads for their arrows in the fol- 
 lowing manner: They carry a quantity 
 of dried flesh and honey to a place 
 near the residence of a Singhalese 
 blacksmith and hang it up on a tree out of the reach of dogs and jackals, together 
 with a leaf cut in the shape of the iron article they want. If the blacksmith 
 does not make the exchange speedily, he will hear from the wild man in a more 
 vigorous manner. 
 
 The language of these sons of the forests and mountains defies all analysis, 
 and no one has been found who can interpret their mutterings. When the Prince 
 of Wales visited Colombo, some years ago, several of these creatures were cap- 
 tured and brought into the circle of civilization for him to see, but when at liberty 
 again they fled back to the freedom of the forests, where each, as a prince of 
 nature, enjoyed the royal right, unlike the English prince, of doing as he pleased. 
 
 COLOMBO HIGH CASTE. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 171 
 
 With Arab! Pasha. 
 
 Through the kindly' consideration of a gentleman from Scotland, who has a 
 large tea estate in the interior of Ceylon, I was enabled to have an interview of 
 several hours with Arabi Pasha, the famous Egyptian, who is a prisoner of state 
 and an exile from his native land by the authority of the English government. 
 
 This man, whose exploits in the year 1882 attracted the attention of the 
 world, lives in an humble bungalow on the outskirts of the old city of Kandy, 
 and with a pension of fifty pounds a month, sent him by the government at Cairo, 
 supports a family of twenty-five persons. 
 
 On my arrival at his residence he met me at the door in quite a democratic 
 manner, and after a hearty grasp of the 
 hand and a few expressions of saluta- 
 tion he was soon , without the least hesi- 
 tation, discussing his varied and thrilling 
 experiences. 
 
 He is a magnificent specimen of an 
 Egyptian, being six feet and two inches 
 in height and weighing about two hun- 
 dred and sixty pounds, and when he 
 became aroused, while describing his 
 efibrts to give freedom and independ- 
 ence to his people, he stood erect, 
 threw back his great head and looked 
 every inch a hero. 
 
 The Pasha's Account. 
 
 His English is somewhat broken, 
 but it was, without difficulty, that I fol- 
 lowed his eloquent words, which at times 
 stirred me thoroughly and elicited my 
 sympathy. 
 
 ' ' I am a prisoner of state, ' ' he said, ' ' and I cannot discuss current politics, 
 but as matters have changed in Egypt and as the reformation that I attempted to 
 bring about is gradually taking place, I am willing to give to you and to the 
 American press an account of my life and the motives that prompted my actions 
 in 1882. I confess that I wanted to see my country free, and for this freedom and 
 for the deliverance of m.y people from internal and external corruption I staked my 
 life and my all. I think now, as I thought then, that the God above has given to 
 different peoples different lands, and the inhabitants of those lands should be left 
 to control them if they are willing to have law and order. 
 
 SINGHALESB MAN. 
 
172 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 " I wanted to do for my country what Washington did for his, and if I had 
 been successful, to-day I would be loved and honored in my own country, instead 
 of being an exile from my home on this island. It is not for me, in my position, 
 to say anything against the great power of England that conquered me, but all the 
 facts are becoming known and perhaps during my lifetime I shall be put right 
 before the world. 
 
 " If I am allowed to return to my native land, I promise never again to take 
 I part in public affairs unless my people call me to lead them, and as the movements 
 
 AN ELEPHANT MARCH. 
 
 that I started are largely being carried out by others, and as my ideas are beinf 
 adopted practically in Egypt, my presence there could not possibly do harm. I do 
 not want to die an exile from home. ' ' 
 
 The Rebellion of 1882. 
 
 These are nearly the exact words of Arabi Pasha, but as some of ^-our readers 
 may not recall the facts of the rebellion that he led, I shall briefly give them. In 
 the latter months of 1881 Arabi, an Egyptian peasant, but a man of great courage 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 173 
 
 and genius, who had risen to one of the highest positions in the service of the 
 Khedive, became enraged b3' the absolute and grossl}' abused pov/er of the Turkish 
 ruling caste, and through his leadership the Khedive, himself a Turk, was forced 
 to grant his subjects a 
 parliament and con- 
 stitution on Western 
 models. 
 
 Under the new 
 order Arabi was ap- 
 pointed minister of 
 war and immediately 
 addressed himself to 
 certain reforms that 
 were greatly needed 
 in the country. The 
 new constitutional 
 ministers were recog- 
 nized by all the Eu- 
 ropean powers, includ- 
 ing England, and at 
 that time Arabi and 
 his followers were 
 greeted as reformers. 
 But the foreign cred- 
 itors of Egypt think- 
 ing that their financial 
 interests were endan- 
 gered tmder a govern- 
 ment so democratic, 
 took alarm, and such 
 pressure was brought 
 to bear upon the Eng- 
 lish government that, 
 largely through the 
 influence of Lord arabi pasha, an exii,e m ceylon. 
 
 Granville, vigorous steps were taken to restore the Turksh Khedive's despotic 
 rule. As it will be remembered, English ships were sent to Alexandria to 
 intimidate the new ministers and Parliament, but Arabi and certain trusted 
 associates refused to betray the heroically won liberties and declined to yield to the 
 English admiral's threats. 
 
174 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 An attempt was now made to get rid of Arabi in a more indirect way. A 
 ■commissioner was secured by l,ord Granville from the Sultan to entrap the 
 minister of war in a conference and there shoot or arrest him, but through timely 
 ■warning from certain foreign friends Arabi escaped the trap set for him, and all 
 seemed smooth sailing for a short time. 
 
 But the end was not yet. After the fashion of the fable of the wolf and the 
 lamb, a quarrel was picked with these patriotic Egyptians and the city of 
 
 Alexandria was bombarded on the 
 plea that the feeble fleet of England 
 was in danger! 
 
 As a last step in this unworthy 
 performance L,ord Wolseley was sent 
 to Egypt with sixt}^ thousand English 
 troops. Arabi and Mahmud Sami, 
 with thousands of others, were made 
 prisoners of war at Cairo. A mock 
 trial was instituted against the lead- 
 ers of the national movement. Arabi 
 Pasha ( ' ' Pasha ' ' corresponds to our 
 general), the minister of war, Mah- 
 mud Sami, the prime minister, Yakub 
 Sami, the governor of Cairo, and four 
 military officers were condemned to 
 death, and only through the pressure 
 of an outraged public opinion in Eu- 
 rope did I^ord Granville at last un- 
 willingly consent to a commutation of 
 their death penalty to one of exile to a 
 British colon}'. 
 
 The Egyptian liberal party and 
 Parliament were disbanded, the pa- 
 triotic ministers and five pashas were 
 " deported " to Ceylon and an Englishman, Sir Evelyn Baring, was installed 
 in Egypt, with the cowardly, cringing Turkish Khedive to do his bidding, or 
 rather the bidding of the British government. 
 
 British Rule and Reforms. 
 
 After eight or ten years' rule in Egypt under English influence Sir Evelyn 
 Baring published a report in which he claims for the British government the 
 success of certain internal reforms by which the finances have been set in order 
 
 SINGHALESE GIRL. 
 
(175) 
 
" 176 AROUND THB WORI.D 
 
 and check has been put on the abuses of power by the Turkish privileged class 
 and certain European colonists. But Arabi Pasha, in his earnest declaration to 
 me, insisted that these very reforms owe their initiative and vitality to the 
 national movement that he headed, and to prove this he produces the program 
 published by him in December, 1881. 
 
 An intelligent Englishman makes this public statement: " Although we have 
 been for years in Egypt, we have introduced no reform there upon any permanent 
 basis. The popular institutions won by Arabi, and which gave so much promise 
 of a new life to Egypt, and through Egypt to other Mohammedan countries, have 
 been ruthlessly uprooted. No vestige of political liberty has been left, and in 
 spite of every effort the English representative in Egypt has nothing better to 
 recommend than an indefinite prolongation of our military occupation and our 
 English tutelage. What England has accomplished in Egypt has been along the 
 lines of Arabi's program, and to allow the originator of these reforms to die in 
 exile, an English prisoner of war, would be a monstrous shame. ' ' 
 
 I am aware that the question whether Arabi Pasha is a patriot or a criminal 
 is an unsettled one in the minds of many, but the trend of events in Egypt since 
 he was banished, the intelligent discussion of the rise and fall of the national 
 movement and the conduct of Arabi during his long exile have elicited for him 
 and his cause much sympathy in Europe and America. 
 
 Of course, Eord Salisbury's administration is inflexibly against the return of 
 the old man to his loved land, and I suppose that there is not a Tory in her 
 Majesty's service who would dare to differ, publicly, with the premier on this or 
 on any other question of state; but if many others are not greatly mistaken, the 
 verdict of history will be given in favor of this man, who thought and fought for 
 the independence of his country, and who tried to rid his land of rulers who had 
 proved themselves utterly incapable to govern; who had pawned the produce of 
 their country twice over to the money-grabbers of Paris, Amsterdam and lyondon; 
 who had taxed every acre of Egypt far beyond its value, and who had ground down 
 to desperation the historic docility of that laborious and loyal people, in order 
 that a small class and caste might revel in luxury. 
 
 Letter to Lady Blunt. 
 
 Arabi Pasha handed me a copy of a letter that he addressed to Lady Anne 
 Blunt, of England, who had shown sympathy for the Egyptian patriot and his 
 fellow-exiles. This pathetic appeal was written some years since: 
 
 " To the Lady Blunt: May God preserve you. Amen. We have forYtfarded to the 
 Marquess of Salisbury the petition signed by me and by the rest of the exiles here with me. I 
 sent it, with medical certificates, on the thirtieth of last month, by the same steamer which 
 conveyed the late governor. Sir Arthur Gordon. Sir William Gregory, who is a friend of both 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 177 
 
 parties, knows the substance of the petition, and will inform you of it when you see him. We 
 have been now seven years and a half in Ceylon, while those very reforms which we wanted to 
 make iu Egypt are being carried out by the British government, and we confidently trust in the 
 humanity of the English nation for our return to our country for the days that are left us of life, 
 and to enjoy the benefits of such reforms as it has obtained. Surely now the people in England 
 must understand that to seek such reforms was our duty— one both of patriotism and humanity. 
 Peace be with you and with all who are your friends. 
 
 "[Signed] Ahmbd P^SlASL, the Egyptian." 
 
 " Colombo, June 15, 1890." 
 
 Although five 3'ears and a half have been added to this man's banishment 
 since this letter was penned by him, and although earnest speeches have been 
 made by the Earl De I^a Warr, Mr. Wilfrid Blunt and others, in and out of 
 Parliament, in behalf of his release, he is still an English prisoner of war, 
 thousands of miles from his home, and his patriotic heart will doubtless beat its 
 last pulsation in his bungalow, near the jungles of Ceylon. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FIRST inPRESSIONS OF INDIA. 
 
 URING the latter part of my stay in Ceylon I enjoyed the 
 privilege of visiting several of the educational institutions of 
 Colombo, and through the kindness of Professor S. G. Lee, 
 the principal of the City College, I addressed the faculty and 
 students of this excellent foundation. Before meeting them 
 in the large hall of the college the boys and young men 
 were seen in the separate classes, and in some of these class- 
 rooms there were' as many as eight nationalities represented. 
 
 The curriculum corresponds somewhat to that found in our higher academies, 
 and a certificate from this school enables the graduate without difficulty to enter 
 Jaffna College, in Northern Ceylon, or one of the higher institutions of India. 
 Several hundred pupils, from the palest to the darkest complexion, gathered in 
 the hall, and my talk on "Self-Heroism" was punctuated bj' j'outhful exclama- 
 tions and hurrahs that did not add to the fluency of the speaker. 
 
 Elephants on His Hands. 
 
 As a result of the visit he found next day that he had several elephants on 
 Tiis hands. Six packages of Ceylon curios were sent, including two heavy ebony 
 •elephants, ' ' with the compliments of the City College of Colombo. ' ' As the 
 steamer trunk had been shipped on to Bombay, with the expectation that a valise 
 was to be his sole companion through the cities, jungles and mountains of India, 
 what was the grateful recipient to do ? His embarrassment was not lessened by 
 the message that some of the faculty and students would be at the Nubia when 
 she sailed to wish the American bon Voyage, which information seemed to forbid 
 the propriety of leaving behind some of his burdensome wealth. 
 
 Necessity is often the mother of invention, and a pleasant farewell has been 
 •waved to the kind-hearted friends, who were only guilty of being too kind. 
 
 The City of Madras. 
 
 On approaching India you are first greeted bj' the noble lighthouse at Madras, 
 over a hundred feet in height, which can be seen for twenty miles over the restless 
 waters of the Bay of Bengal. Situated on the open bay and exposed to the fury 
 of the northeast monsoons, Madras was one of the most unprotected spots on the 
 <;joromandel coast until the stone breakwater was built, which is composed of a 
 
 (178) 
 
(179) 
 
i8o 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 conglomerate of small stones and cement in the form of large cubes, after the plan 
 adopted by De Lesseps in the construction at Port Said, which forms the Mediter- 
 ranean entrance of the Suez Canal. 
 
 It is interesting to notice the peculiar structure of the shore boats that are 
 used by the natives of different lands. For miles from the coast of India, in the 
 Bay of Bengal, the waters are alive with fishermen's boats that are different from 
 any I have seen. They are built of three pieces of timber, ten or twelve feet 
 long, tied securely together with cocoanut fibre, the centre one being longer than 
 the others and curved upward at each end. 
 
 CATAMARAN FISHING BOATS, MADRAS. 
 
 As our steamer was obliged to anchor some distance off shore, a boat was used 
 to take the passengers to the wharf, which is peculiar in construction. It is made 
 of teak, a wood peculiar to India and excellent for ship-building ; the thin planks 
 are sewed together with hide thongs, caulked with cocoanut fibre ; no nails are 
 used, which could not take the place of the yielding thongs, and eight to ten 
 rowers propel the boat with oars shaped like spoons, being strong elastic poles with 
 flat rounded ends securely lashed to them by hide thongs. 
 
 You soon find yourself facing an esplanade, located between the two roots of 
 the breakwaters and facing the harbor, which is an irregular terrace of large 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 i8i 
 
 business premises, behind which is Blacktown, the native city, which is distin- 
 guished from Whitetown, the European quarter, surrounding the fort near the 
 suburbs. Great shade trees add beauty to most of the streets where the foreign 
 residences and shops are located, and the marine promenade, about two miles long, 
 is crowded toward sunset with handsome equipages and well-dressed pedestrians. 
 
 In and around Madras there are many extensive lakes and tanks, some of 
 which are very noted. At one of the suburbs called Triplicane there is an ancient 
 
 NATIVE PASSENGER CART, MADRAS. 
 
 and sacred tank, said by its Brahmans to be more holy than the Ganges, and one 
 bath in its waters is equal to ten thousand dips in that river. 
 
 The city, with its half million of people, and covering an area of about thirty 
 miles, is full of interest to the sight-seer. ♦ 
 
 Sight=Seeing. 
 
 The People's Park, with its eleven pretty lakes, its well-maintained menagerie 
 and aviaries, and its miles of shady walks; the Robinson Park, where a large 
 fernery is placed on an island reached by a graceful iron bridge of fifty feet span; 
 the St. Thomas Mount, sacred to many as the spot where St. Thomas the Apostle 
 
1 82 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 is said to have been martyred in 68 A. D. by Bralimans, who stirred up the people 
 against him; the old palace of the Nawabsof the Karnatic, now used as a govern- 
 ment building, and the museum, containing a collection of natural history, among 
 which is the great skeleton of a whale fifty feet long, found dead on the Mangalore 
 shore, said to be the most perfect specimen in existence, and departments of 
 botany, economics, mineralogy, geology and industrial arts that are well chosen 
 and excellently kept up. All of these places can be visited in a single day, and with 
 
 GROUP OF TODDYMEN, MADRAS. 
 
 an intelligent guide j-ou may be sure that your note-book will be crowded by 
 night. 
 
 The "proportion of Christians is higher in Madras than anj'where else in 
 British India, and I learned that the Church of Scotland, the Wesleyans, the 
 London Missionary Society, the Free Church of England, the Society for the 
 Propagation of the Gospel, the German Lutherans, the Roman Catholics, the 
 American Baptists and others are hard at work, and I can easily imagine how 
 the poor native who wanted to become a Christian would be utterly at a loss ta 
 know which way to turn and through what door to pass. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 183 
 
 There is in the city a large number of schools, among which the most 
 important are the Madras Christian College of the Free Church of Scotland, with 
 nearly two thousand pupils, one of the most famous educational institutions in 
 India; the City Medical College, and the Presidency Government College, all of 
 which prepare students for the Madras University. 
 
 As in every other place in this part of the world, the shops and bazaars of 
 Madras form a prominent and important feature of the city life. The pierced and 
 hammered silver work is exquisite in design and workmanship, and. the work 
 known as swami, decorated with figures of the Puranic gods in high relief — 
 sometimes repousse, sometimes soldered on the surface — was strikingly unique. 
 
 The blackwood furniture, the 
 carvings in sandal-wood and ivory, 
 the models of Dravidian temples made 
 of the pith of the sola, and the artistic 
 coconada rugs, woven in out-of-the- 
 way villages on the Coromandel coast 
 by the Mussulman descendants of 
 Persian settlers, tempt 30U to linger 
 in the native shops, and you are apt 
 to come forth from them with fewer 
 rupees than when you entered. 
 
 In the native settlement, groups 
 of dancing girls are frequently met. 
 These are nearly always connected 
 with the temple services, and, for a 
 consideration, which is supposed to 
 be appropriated by the priests, these 
 young women give performances of 
 their art. Their dances are supposed 
 to represent stories of different char- 
 acter, and love, hatred, jealousy and 
 passions of different kinds are set forth by the postures, contortions and facial 
 expressions of these dancers, whose ankles are encircled by little silver bells, the 
 music from which is supposed to be in harmony with the instrument that is fur- 
 nishing the dance music. 
 
 When these girls are unengaged by the temples, they are frequently engaged 
 by private citizens, and, as in the East, people seldom do their own dancing, 
 these professional toe-tippers are brought in, and afford amusement during the 
 evening for a few rupees. It may be according to the fitness of things that these 
 people hire both their mourners and their dancers. 
 
 DEVII, DANCERS OF MADRAS. 
 
1 84 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The Seven Pagodas. 
 
 Thirty miles south of Madras is located Mahabalipur (or the Seven Pagodas), 
 which is one of the most interesting places in India to the archaeologist, presenting 
 a series of architectural wonders from the early Christian centuries down to recent 
 times, their remoteness on a sea-washed island having contributed to their 
 remarkable preservation. The cave temples, monolithic figures, carvings and 
 sculpture, probably of the sixth century, and the more modern temples of 
 Vishnu and Siva are of thrilling historic interest. The whole of one ridge is 
 
 DOOBI,:^ BUI,I,OCK RAIK1<A, MADRAS. 
 
 pitted with caves and temples, and there is seen the recumbent figure of a man, 
 which measures 1500 feet, with its hands in the attitude of prayer. Here we 
 find, in architecture, sculptures, and in inscriptions a religious history of Southern 
 India carved in the imperishable rock. 
 
 The Bay of Bengal. 
 
 From Madras to Calcutta, during the month of February, the Bay of Bengal 
 is as placid as a sleeping lake. The cyclones, which seem most at home in these 
 waters during the rest of the year, are unknown in this month, and from the 
 
A THOROUGHFARE IN CALCUTTA. 
 
i86 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 moment that our steamer lifted anchor within the breakwater at Madras until we 
 passed through the mouth of the Hooghly River for Calcutta our voyage was the 
 perfection of tranquillity, the unbroken sapphire of the bay being disturbed for 
 
 days only by the little 
 flying fish making a 
 chain of ripples on 
 the sparkling mirror 
 of the deep, or by a 
 lazy, rolling whale, 
 bent on proving that 
 there was something 
 alive in the sea, spout- 
 ing his fountain into 
 the serene air. 
 
 Evening after 
 evening as we watch 
 the sun sinking over 
 the Coromandel coast, 
 turning the smooth 
 face of the waters into 
 a floor of ruby and 
 purple, we can under- 
 stand why Homer 
 speaks of it as " wine- 
 colored," and w'hen 
 the queen of night 
 takes the place of the 
 king of day the pic- 
 ture in water colors 
 changes, and, assisted 
 by the lesser lights, 
 this generous empress of the evening scatters her jewels broadcast over the 
 laughing waters. 
 
 The author of ' ' The I,ight of Asia ' ' grows poetically eloquent in his ecstasy 
 over this beautiful bay: 
 
 " For, even these days of subtler air and finer delight. 
 When lovelier looks the darkness and diviner the light. 
 The gift they give of all these golden hours whose urn 
 Pours forth reverberate rays or shadowing showers in turn — 
 Clouds, beams and winds that make the fair day's track seem living — 
 What were they did no spirit give them back thanksgiving ?" 
 
 A MADRAS BElvLE. 
 
(i87) 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Calcutta. 
 
 Calcutta (taking its name from the ancient shrine of the goddess Kali) is 
 located about ninety miles from the mouth of the Hooghly River, and as the 
 navigation of this stream is attended with many dangers, expert pilots, who are 
 at the head of their profession and who draw large stipends, are employed to guide 
 all steamers up and down the river. 
 
 The chief peril is known as "James and Mary" (from the name of a ship 
 that was wrecked at this point some years ago), and the shoal thrown up by two 
 tidal currents meeting the broad stream of the Ganges causes, at low water, a 
 frightful "rip," which has often torn the steering-gear of a ship to pieces and 
 
 flung her broadside on the sand. 
 Even the best pilots do not dare to 
 pass this place at night time, and 
 must seek to cross it as nearly as pos- 
 sible at high water. 
 
 Nearer the mouth of the river is 
 Saugor Island, where the Ganges 
 runs to sea out of the great delta 
 formed by her own flood and that of 
 the Brahmapootra, and I am told that 
 the forests of this lonely place 
 abound with tigers of a large atid 
 ferocious kind. But, unhurt by tide 
 or tiger, in due time we reach the 
 political capital of India. 
 
 It has been a little over two 
 
 hundred years .since the East India 
 
 Company first established its factory 
 
 at Calcutta, and on the twenty-fourth 
 
 of August, 1690, the English flag was hoisted by the noted Job Charnock. 
 
 Twenty years afterward its population was only twelve thousand and now it is 
 
 not very far from a million. 
 
 The Calcutta of our day is modern in all of its improvements, and the famous 
 Black Hole, the Maratha Ditch and other historic spots that we associate with the 
 names of Charnock, Hamilton, Clive and Warren Hastings have lost their identity 
 and the ground that witnessed scenes that thrilled the world is covered by magnifi- 
 cent public buildings. 
 
 The Government House, a noble palace, situated in a park of six or seven 
 acres, with a central building, contains handsome suites of reception and enter- 
 
 MADRAS CO0I,IB. 
 
(iSg) 
 
I go 
 
 AROUND THE WORIyD 
 
 taining rooms, connected by galleries with four outlying blocks, in which are the 
 private apartments of the viceroy and his household; the town hall, the legislative 
 council chamber, the high court, the treasury and the currency office, located near 
 together; the imperial museum, the zoological gardens, the horticultural gardens 
 
 HINDU SACRIFICE, KALI GHAT, CAICUXTA. 
 
 and the Fort William are all evidences of British influence, which has shaped the 
 
 appearance as well as the government of Calcutta according to the notion of John 
 
 Bull. 
 
 A Noted Antiquity. 
 
 The most noted antiquity in the city, perhaps, is the Kali Ghat, where Kali, 
 or ' ' The Black One, ' ' who is supposed to be a furious goddess, hideous in features. 
 
(igi) 
 
192 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 dripping with blood, with a necklace of human skulls, has held her shrine and 
 greeted her worshipers for ages past. She is thought to send pestilence and 
 famine, and, as she is only appeased by blood, during the fearful famine in 1866 
 human heads decked with flowers were found before her altar. 
 
 This is the only place of public worship for Hindus in Calcutta, and on 
 religious festivals thousands of natives repair to the shrine of Kali, sacrifice goes 
 on continually and ghats and tanks are crowded with bathers. 
 
 RIVER FRONT, CALCUTTA. 
 
 In this connection allow me to speak of the burning ghat on the banks of the 
 Hooghly, where the Hindus cremate their dead. 
 
 Cremation of the Dead. 
 
 The pyre is laid in dry wood, mingled sometimes with sandal- wood for the 
 sake of its fragrance. The corpse is placed at full length on the pile and covered 
 over with more wood, the head and feet only being visible. Passages from the 
 sacred books are read by the officiating priest. The eldest son or nearest relative, 
 
- < 
 
 i- 
 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 a 
 
194 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 having walked three times round the pyre, kindles it, and in two or three hours 
 
 the body is reduced to ashes, which are cast into the river. 
 
 As we watched the smoke noiselessly ascending from several pyres, while the 
 
 relatives of the dead solemnly and quietly, with bowed heads, stood near by, the 
 
 thought occurred to us that this was a far more impressive funeral than many we 
 
 had seen in a more civilized land, where false notions, based upon unacknowledged 
 
 superstition, made such services most repulsive. But I turn to pleasanter 
 
 scenes. 
 
 The Banyan Tree. 
 
 : In my walks I visited a noble specimen of the banyan tree. It sends down 
 aerial roots, striking into the ground and forming new trunks, and these again 
 make fresh branches and rootlets until a colonnade of living pillars is formed, 
 caiiopied with a roof of green. 
 
 The name of this tree is aswattha, and an old writing says that he who knows 
 the aswattha knows human life, for the' tree is an emblem of the life of man, who, 
 growing to maturity in the air and sunlight of the sense-world, throws forth ever 
 and ever new roots to bind himself more and more to the earth and its allurements. 
 
 These wonderful, outspreading banyan trees adorn many of the private 
 grounds in and around Calcutta, and in its refreshing shade the family can be seen 
 during the pleasant days gathered about the lunch table. 
 
 The botanical gardens, which are situated beyond the village of Seebpur, on 
 the bank of the Ganges, contain, perhaps, the finest banyan tree in the world. 
 
 Nearly every American and English school child is familiar with the picture 
 
 of this superb tree, and it is regarded the greatest glory of these famous gardens. 
 
 Although it is only one hundred years old, its trunk is more than fifty feet in 
 
 circumference, and over two hundred air roots have descended to the earth from 
 
 its mighty limbs. Its outside measurement is more than eight hundred feet in 
 
 circumference. 
 
 The Indian Huseum. 
 
 Those who are interested in archaeology will visit, with interest, the valuable 
 contents of the Indian Imperial Museum, which was founded by the Asiatic 
 Society, whose journals are the source from which almost every authority on 
 Indian antiquities, philology, literature and natural history has come. 
 
 The archaeological galleries contain a gateway and railing of the great Budd- 
 hist Stupa of Bharhut, which is nearly two thousand years old, and which is richly 
 sculptured with representations of the various births of Buddha, giving pictures- 
 of the dress, tools, weapons, furniture, buildings and domestic life of the people 
 who lived one and two hundred years before the Christian era. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river an imposing building is pointed out, which 
 reminds the student of history of an act of injustice on the part of England, the 
 
(195) 
 
196 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 like of which has not been infrequent in her foreign policy. This structure was 
 the palace of King Oude, who was dethroned while he was the ruler of one of the 
 richest provinces of India, and under some specious pretence his private property 
 was seized^ including his valuable jewels, and sold to enrich the treasure of the 
 Queen of England. Even the British press acknowledged at the time that 
 the English had no more right to that private property and to those precious 
 stones than they had to the crown diamonds of Russia. 
 
 If might makes right then our Anglo-Saxon cousins have had a supremely 
 righteous career. It was with peculiar interest that I visited Serampur, a few 
 miles from Calcutta, and looked upon the places made immortal by the heroic 
 efforts of Carey, Marshman and Ward, those pioneers of missionary enterprise in 
 India. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 IN THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 FTER spending some days sight-seeing about Calcutta, and after 
 witnessing a fine display of the Indian tactics at a bril- 
 liant military tournament, it was with pleasure that we 
 boarded a coach on the East Bengal Railway, and, crossing 
 the Ganges at Damookdea, resumed our journey by the 
 North Bengal State Railway until we reached Siliguri, where 
 the Himalayan Railway was taken, which has a gauge of only 
 two feet, and which is the most wonderful piece of engineering 
 in the world, not excepting the railway up the Pilatus, near Luzerne, Switzerland, 
 or the one running up Mount Washington, in Xew Hampshire. The locomotives 
 are sturdy little engines weighing ten tons. Each open carriage holds six in 
 comfortable arm chairs, and the railway is a light tram, the rail weighing about 
 forty pounds a yard. The four-wheeled bogies wind in and out along the hill- 
 sides, running at times excitingly near the edge of tremendous gorges and 
 precipices, assuming the shape of the letter S for two-thirds of the journey. At 
 one place the train crosses a bridge, which a moment afterward it runs under, 
 and rising again the line makes a complete figure eight. 
 
 Scenery and Vegetation. 
 
 On this toy railway you are now passing through dense primeval forests, now 
 you look out upon dark green tea gardens, that spread for miles along the slopes 
 of the mountains. A moment afterward you are looking thousands of feet below 
 you upon the vast fertile plain of Bengal, the meandering rivers rolling through 
 it, flashing like molten silver in the sunlight, and further on, as the train commences 
 to make the steeper ascent, you are carried through jungles of cane fifty or sixty 
 feet high, grasses that shoot their blades fifteen feet and seed-stalks twenty-five feet 
 from the ground, with great feathery tops. 
 
 As the ascent is made it is interesting to notice how the vegetation changes. 
 For the first three thousand feet oaks, banyans, mimosas, acacias, fig, india-rubber 
 and the giant bamboo, sixty feet high, with stalks as thick as a man's thigh, are 
 seen in every bend of the serpentine road. About four thousand feet above the 
 plain the spreading chestnut and the blooming almond and mango trees come in 
 sight, and now you come into a wilderness of graceful Himalayan tree ferns from 
 fifteen to twenty-five feet high. 
 
 (197) 
 
(198) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 199 
 
 The riountaineers. 
 
 The attention is now divided between the natural scenery, which is becoming 
 transcendently grand, and the new types of people that gaze from the doors of 
 their dirt shanties or lie about smoking iron pots hanging over the fire on tripods, 
 quite in gipsy style, partaking of their midday meal. By the dress, physiognomy 
 and figure three nationalities could be easily distinguished — the people from Thibet, 
 Nepal and Cashmere — which countries are separated from this part of Northern 
 India by the Himalayan mountains. 
 
 The men were all armed with long sword-like knives, carried in their 
 belts which support their single garments. The women, with their brilliant 
 
 costume and more brilliant ear, nose 
 and toe rings, are more attractive- 
 looking than their southern sisters, 
 and the children wear no artificial 
 adornment except rings about their 
 ears, noses and ankles. 
 
 The wild country through which 
 we passed abounds in ferocious animals, 
 and our talkative conductor has just 
 given us a description of a great 
 Bengal tiger that was seen lying near 
 the railroad track, and as the train 
 approached him he leisurely arose, 
 quietly gave a parting glance at the 
 noisy engine and disappeared in the 
 thick jungles. 
 
 Approaching Darjeeling. 
 
 When the ascension is very steep 
 
 and the curves are sharp we can see 
 
 from our coach, near the rear, two 
 
 natives sitting on the cow-catcher 
 
 sprinkling sand on the rails to prevent 
 
 the" busy little wheels from slipping, and while passing over the many horseshoe 
 
 turns about the cliffs we frequently find ourselves exactly opposite the scarlet- 
 
 turbaned man at the throttle of the engine. 
 
 We wind in and out, around and about, up and down, and as our snake- 
 twisting train passes the white board that marks seven thousand feet above the- 
 sea level, the pufiing little machine at the front, which has fought bravely and can 
 claim a noble victory, sends forth a shout of triumph. Sweeping around a sudden 
 
 A I.EPCHA MAN. 
 
(200) 
 
 DAKJEHI<ING RAILWAY. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 turn, we see the hundreds of white houses of Darjeeling perched upon the sides 
 of the Himalayas as if they had been dumped from the floating sheets of clouds 
 abo.e, and, lifted far over tier after tier of moving sky vapors, which hide from 
 view over twenty thousand feet of the range, the sunlit, snow-crowned Kinchin- 
 junga stands forth like the pearl-white palace of the king of kings in the heaven 
 of heavens. Words seem quite inadequate to describe the stupendous magnifi- 
 cence of the view as we entered Darjeeling, which signifies "up in the clouds." 
 
 The " Halls of Snow." 
 
 It is located at the end of a long wooded spur of Sinchul, a mountain about 
 nine thousand feet high, and from the peak near my hotel the eye sweeps over a 
 perfect amphitheatre, resting in turn 
 upon the snow summits of Janu, 
 twenty-five thousand and three hun- 
 dred feet above Calcutta; Kabur, 
 twenty-four thousand; Pandim, twenty- 
 two thousand; Chomiamo, twenty- four 
 thousand and six hundred, and then 
 a succession of unnamed mountains, 
 which lead on to Donkhia, twenty-six 
 thousand, and towering above all of 
 them, whose irregular snow roofs can 
 alone be seen, is the Kinchinjunga, 
 which is more than twenty -eight thou- 
 sand feet in height. 
 
 In the valleys of these mount- 
 ains, which stretch in a chain of 
 over two hundred miles in extent, 
 are unbroken successions of snow 
 fields and glaciers, and in the centre 
 of the whole range rises the hoary monarch just spoken of, whose dazzling 
 crown is lifted more than five miles over the plain of Bengal. 
 
 In the early morning I was disappointed to find Kinchinjunga buried under 
 a thick mass of cloud, but my disappointment lasted only for a short time. As 
 the rising sun gathered strength, arrows of light pierced the vapory nightrobe of 
 the sleeping giant; a glow of glory rested upon the snows, changing into mingled 
 gold, ruby and purple, and as the king of day kissed the white-turbaned peaks 
 good morning a bright smile spread from summit to summit, and, leaping down 
 the stairway of snow, the early morning light spread a veil of gold upon tlie dewy 
 lap of the valleys. 
 
 A LEPCHA WOMAN. 
 
Q 
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WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 ilount Everest. 
 
 203 
 
 To see Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, is the supreme 
 desire of every one who visits Darjeeling, and in order to have this pleasure one 
 must take an early morning ride to Tiger Hill, a distance of eight miles, and 
 frequently after taking the ride the desired object is not attained. 
 
 Accompanied by two gentlemen and one lady I took the trip about daybreak, 
 and we all agreed that this delightful ride up the Himalayas (which means, in 
 Sanskrit, " Halls of Snow ") amplj' repaid us for the inconvenience of rising so 
 early on a cold morning, although we might not see the king of mountains. 
 
 A RUSTIC SCENE IN INDIA — BUFPAI,0 PLOWING 
 
 Our path, at times, led about the mountain ranges, with only a few feet 
 between the perpendicular granite walls and the gorges of thousands of feet in 
 depth; but our sure-footed little ponies, v/ith the exception of one slight accident 
 did their work well, and in due time we were standing on Tiger Hill, two thou- 
 sand feet above Darjeeling. A deep mist enveloped us, and after straining our 
 eyes in vain to get a glimpse of the part of our globe that reaches nearest to the 
 skies we were about to descend, when our lady companion, whose intuitions are 
 
204. 
 
 AROUND . THE WORLD 
 
 worthy of her superior sex, insisted upon a delay, declaring that there would be a 
 break in the misty clouds, and we would be rewarded shortly. Of course she was 
 right, and of course we were wise in following the lady's advice. 
 
 Far out and up in the direction where our guide said Mount Everest was 
 located a brightness appeared, then a patch of blue, and as speechlessly we watched 
 
 DA.RJEBI,ING BAZAAR TYVBS. 
 
 for the appearance the pure dome of Mount Everest, 29,000 feet above the sea, 
 stood against the' deep blue sky, unsupported, apparently, by any base; and a 
 moment afterward it was wrapped again in the clouds. The picture is as 
 impossible to forget as it is impossible to paint. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 205 
 
 Himalayan Tea. 
 
 Accepting the invitation of an Englisli gentleman, I visited his tea plantation 
 and factory, and from his gardens, covering about two hundred acres, I was 
 informed he ships over fifty thousand pounds of tea leaves every year. This tea, 
 in the Himalayas, has a distinct flavor of its own, and with the exception of that 
 tasted in Ceylon, I have found none so delicious as this. 
 
 The peoples that are found in these mountains are of peculiar interest. The 
 I,epchas, of the Sikkim race, who have no religious rites; the Limboos, whose 
 out-door temples are seen on the hill-tops; the Moormis, of large stature and 
 originally from Thibet; the Nepaulese and Cashmere people, with short, stout 
 frames, and the long-haired, unnamed men of the hills, present types and habits 
 of mankind that cannot but elicit attention and interest. 
 
 A Native Bazaar. 
 
 The native bazaar here in Darjeeling is one of the sights of the place, and at 
 noon the noise of the peddlers and more important tradesmen can be heard for 
 squares away. 
 
 The old saying that " it takes two to make a bargain " does not apply here, 
 for before a trade is closed scores of merry women and children gather about you, 
 shouting, pushing and gesticulating like so many lunatics. 
 
 The open market-place is crowded with traders, many of whom have come 
 from Thibet, Cashmere and further distances, and heterogeneous assortments of 
 goods, consisting of brass Buddhas, ironmongery, pottery, skins, flashing jewelry, 
 coins, curios of every description, besides tamed snakes, birds and monkeys, are 
 offered for remarkably low prices. To stand on an eminence overlooking this 
 bazaar, and watch the brilliantly colored costumes and excited manners of the 
 people as they mingle in a great labyrinth of noisy confusion, is a wonderfully 
 interesting study. 
 
 The most attractive person in all the throng is the Bhutia woman, with a 
 great circlet round her head formed of large beads of coral and turquoise, four 
 necklaces of amber, agate, coral and moonstones; enormous ear-rings, pulling 
 down the lobes of the ears, and a massive silver girdle about her loosely worn 
 garment, with hanging ornaments like a chatelaine. After all, is not the most 
 charming creature in every land a — woman ? 
 
 On an Indian Railway. 
 
 A sleeping-car on an oriental railway is death to aristocratic airs. The early 
 morning (the tourist joyfully rises with the sun) finds his meekness only exceeded 
 by his shabbiness, and during the long, long night how often does he wish that he 
 
(2o6) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 207 
 
 was sleeping amidst the jungles through which he is passing, instead of tossing 
 Tip and down, round and round, over and over, in this wabbling, rattling, snorting, 
 creaking thing that is carrying him ten or fifteen miles an hour. 
 
 I am sure that the Indian sleeping-car possesses a patent of its own, and that 
 it has never been duplicated is a blessing to that part of humanity that does 
 not enjoy the nightmare while taking nocturnal trips through this country. 
 
 The car itself is a wonder in inconvenient workmanship. When it remains 
 still long enough to be measured, you find that it measures about ten by six feet, 
 contains four indescribable affairs called beds — two stationary and two hanging in 
 a threatening manner from above by leather-covered ropes; is lit by a single 
 flickering light that is too dim to read by and too bright to sleep by, and is entered 
 bj' the tourist through a side door, which is often too narrow for the bundle of 
 bedclothes that the railroad kindly allows him to furnish. 
 
 In an Indian Sleeping Car, 
 
 Having as my companion during the first night out on my way to the 
 mountains of India a bright, congenial fellow from the " City of Brotherly Eove," 
 the trip was crowded with incidents, some of which were very laughable several 
 days after they happened. 
 
 Far in the dark night it turned suddenly very chilly, and we were aroused to 
 find everything in a stiff gale, and fearing that the monkeys in the jungles would 
 have the 'joy of appearing next day in some of our garments, we arose to seize 
 them in the midst of their wild career as they danced in the whirlwind, and to our 
 surprise we found that our door was swinging wide open, and from the mountains 
 the cold air was sweeping through the car from door to window and window to 
 door. 
 
 These sleeping-cars encourage domestic economy, in that they require you to 
 carry about with you all the bedclothing that you use, and make up your own bed 
 when you desire to use it! As my good-natured friend possessed a passion for 
 such art, and as it is my creed that every one should be encouraged in developing 
 his talent in any given direction, I allowed him to practice on my bed; but when 
 the time came to blow up my newly patented air-pillow, then came the tug-of-war! 
 We blew into that perversely empty pillow by turns until our heads grew dizzy 
 and we seemed to be blowing our brains out; but as we held it up after every 
 windstorm, it resembled in diameter a pancake rather than a pillow. 
 
 At last, my companion, thinking, perhaps, that it was not worth while to put 
 on airs while trying to put in air, assumed an attitude of strength rather than of 
 grace, and turning himself into a veritable bellows, inflated the pillow to an 
 enormous size and uncomfortable tightness, which he now handed to me with an 
 air of triumph. 
 
2o8 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 Crossing the ilountains. 
 
 In the morning we expected a scene of desolation to greet us, as we would 
 be in the mountains, but, as we looked through the windows, everything was 
 green. Not only the trees and grass, but our eyes could not rest upon anything 
 that was not green — green birds, green cows, green pigs, green goats, green ducks, 
 green skies, and, stranger still (a sight which we look for in vain in our country), 
 green men and women! 
 
 What kind of country is this, anyhow ? In mute wonder we gazed upon the 
 green panorama, fearing to speak lest we exposed our greenness. 
 
 In a few moments the window pane was dropped, and the verdant delusion 
 came to an end. The windows were of green-colored glass, and the greenness, 
 alas, was not outside, but inside of the car! 
 
 Deliberateness to a painful degree is the dominant characteristic of these 
 trains, especially in Northern India. 
 
 While riding horseback with a party near Darjeeling, the cars were seen 
 approaching us, and the steed of one of the young men became unmanageable, 
 and succeeded in getting away from the rider, who had dismounted. The engineer 
 stopped his train and the brakeman caught the horse, which had run some distance 
 away! 
 
 Slow Progress. 
 
 While on a railroad near the boundary line of India and Assam, the conductor 
 was asked why there were not more collisions, as there was only a single track. 
 " The reason is very simple," he replied; "we have only one engine." 
 
 To pass away the time during a tedious delay of the train in the wilds of 
 Assam, my friend from Philadelphia and I tossed small coins in the grass, and the 
 violent scramble that followed on the part of the natives was a remarkable sight. 
 I counted sixty-seven grown men struggling in a heap over a coin valued at about 
 one-half of our cent. 
 
 When the amusement became a little monotonous, I exclaimed, " Is it not 
 time for us to be going, or what causes the long delay ?' ' A gentleman near me 
 said, " Yonder is the engineer scrambling with those other men for the coin just 
 thrown out," and sure enough, there he was, with his firemen, in the midst of the 
 melee. 
 
 In order to test the speed of these fast-running Assamese, I placed a man 
 with a few coins in his hand about two hundred yards from a group of fifty or 
 sixty men, and told them that the first who reached the holder of the money 
 could have it. At the drop of the handkerchief they all started, but what was my 
 surprise when I saw the man to whom had been given the coins to hold, just 
 before the swiftest runner reached him, turn about and run off with the bag. 
 
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 (209) 
 
AROUND the; WORIyD 
 
 On a Sacred River, 
 
 Our trip up the sacred Brahmapootra (" Son of Brahma ") River on our wa}' 
 into Assam was most delightful in every respect. It is impossible to bridge this 
 river, as it changes its course so often, and the most expert native pilots are 
 employed to guide the steamers through the treacherous channels. 
 
 Wild animals of nearly every description abound in the thick jungles on 
 either side of the stream, and alligators, storks, cranes and quantities of many- 
 colored birds are seen as we near Dhubri. 
 
 One of the most noted rajahs in the country has his magnificenfpalace in 
 this neighborhood, and as he keeps 150 elephants solely for hunting purposes, he 
 is very popular with English huntsmen. A hunting party is being formed this 
 week, and one of the sportsmen told me that if they were as successful as when 
 they last went out, a number of tiger skins would be carried home by the party. 
 
 In a Dak Bungalow. 
 
 My nights in 
 Assam are spent in 
 what is known as a 
 dak bungalow, which 
 is built and owned 
 by the government, 
 and as these bunga- 
 lows are located in 
 places out of the 
 usual route of travel, 
 they are great conve- 
 niences to government 
 officials who must 
 traverse the land from 
 one end to the other, 
 and to tourists who 
 desire to get a glimpse of the places and peoples untouched by civilization. 
 
 These one-floor buildings are in charge of natives, who present to each guest 
 a book, in which he enters the time of arrival and departure, and on the opposite 
 place is a blank space for ' ' remarks. ' ' 
 
 The column of ' ' remarks ' ' shows the varied characters of the persons who have 
 rested under the low roof of this forest hotel. A certain Delia Symonds, shocked 
 at the frivolity of the dak bungalow library, which consisted of a few broken- 
 backed novels and a pile of dry magazines and weekly papers, delivered herself. 
 
 DANDY, DARJEEUNG, INDIA. 
 
WITH WIDE OPEN EYES. 211 
 
 too many novels for the good morals of the public." This could not be left 
 unnoticed. 
 
 The next person who made his remarks was evidently of a different frame of 
 mind from Miss Deliaj and his entry proves that he was much more of a wag than 
 a poet: 
 
 " If fair Delia here -would stay 
 Our faulty morals to better, 
 I'm sure we all should say 
 
 That we'd gladly be her debtor. 
 Bad books no more we'd peruse. 
 
 Enchained by her charms so entrancing, 
 The bad boy, poor chap, he would lose. 
 While we to glory should be dancing. ' 
 
 A new deputy commissioner writes under this: " Travelers are reminded that 
 the remark column is not designed with the view of affording them an opportunity 
 of firing ofE brilliant flashes of wit or recording mawkish expressions of cant." 
 
 Fearing that I might break one or the other of these governmental prohibi- 
 tions, I refrained from making a " remark." 
 
 In these parts it is impossible from the clocks in use to tell the time of day or 
 night unless you perform mental gymnastics equal to working a problem in 
 calculus. I was awakened last night by the unearthly sound of a clock striking 
 twenty-seven, and next morning when I asked for an explanation and expressed 
 a desire to know how I could tell the time by this erratic timepiece, the solution 
 given me called to mind a certain clock that served a purpose, if you remembered 
 that when the long hand was at quarter after twelve and the short hand half-past 
 eight it was going on to ten o'clock. 
 
 -•3^ 
 
(212) 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 BENARES ON THE GANGES. 
 
 HESE words are written in a city that is supposed b5' many histo- 
 rians to be the oldest known habitation of man on earth. Five 
 and twenty centuries ago, when Rome was not yet on the records 
 of the world, and when Athens was in its infant splendor, Benares, 
 on the noble Ganges, exerted a mighty power and her fame was 
 established among men. Here the great Buddha proclaimed his 
 doctrines first, sending forth missionaries from this centre to Ceylon, China, Japan, 
 Burmah and Thibet, bringing, in time, nearly half the race of man under the 
 influence of his teachings. But centuries afterward, during a powerful religious 
 and political upheaval. Buddhism succumbed to Brahmani.sm, leaving behind only 
 the ruins of its topes and temples. And to-day, what Mecca is to the Moham- 
 medan, Jerusalem to the Christian, Benares is to the Hindu. 
 
 The city is located along the crest of a hill over one hundred feet above the 
 sacred Ganges. For three miles on the sloping west bank, palaces, temples and 
 mosques, surmounted by domes, pinnacles and minarets, rear their irregular tops. 
 Giant flights of stone stairs, interrupted by wide platforms, on which are built 
 shrines of every description , reach to the water, and on the edges of the bank are 
 bathing ghats, which are crowded with pilgrims from every part of India and from 
 other countries, in every stage of dress and undress, whose supreme desire is tc 
 plunge into these holy waters before death overtakes them. 
 
 Hindu Pilgrims. 
 
 These pilgrims are not all from the lower or middle classes, but include every 
 rank of Indian society, from the elaborately dressed rajahs, followed by long 
 retinues of attendants, to the unsightly looking ashes-covered fakir and the 
 miserable deformed beggar, and from the little boys and girls to the aged grand- 
 fathers, lifted by bearers to the stream, all, bent upon dipping in the mother 
 Ganges for the remission of their sins. 
 
 The private boat of a rich rajah was anchored at one of the ghats, and a 
 covered canopy, which extended to the bank, hid him and his wife from view as 
 they went through their religious ablutions. 
 
 I noticed that many of the women and girls carried wreaths of white and 
 yellow flowers into the river, and as they most devoutly turned their faces 
 
 (213) 
 
214 AROUND THE WORI.D. 
 
 toward the rising sun and inaudibly whispered their prayers, the garlands were 
 broken in pieces and scattered upon the river. 
 
 Hundreds of these devotees were seen with brass jars and other vessels, ia 
 which they carry away to their distant homes some of the holy water, and 
 employes of the temples, from Central and Southern India, were there with their 
 leather water-bags, which were to be filled and borne on the backs of the 
 pedestrians for scores and scores of miles to their houses of worship. 
 
 The thoughtful man, it matters not what may be his religious predilections, 
 has no disposition to sneer at these worshipers, who freely and quietly give their 
 time and money to what they sincerely believe to be true; which fact presents a 
 striking contrast to the loud professions and selfish, covetous lives of not a few 
 church-goers in Christian lands. 
 
 Along the river bank there are not less than fifty of these ghats, which have 
 for their background magnificent flights of steps leading up to imposing castles- 
 and palaces, great white mosques and soaring minarets. 
 
 The Pauchganga ghat, where five rivers are supposed to meet underground, 
 leads to the noble mosque which the iconoclast, Aurangzeb, built on the site of 
 the noted Krishna temple which he destroyed. 
 
 This is the finest mosque in Benares, the foundations of which rise from the 
 bed of the river in huge stone breastworks, which support the four walls and 
 domes of the mosque, and springing lightly in the air are two graceful minarets, 
 lifting the whole structure three hundred feet above the swarm of bathers at the 
 water's edge. 
 
 In sailing up the river I passed the ghat where Vishnu dug his famous well, 
 where Brahma made his celebrated sacrifice of ten horses, the Golden Temple, and 
 many other spots that have made the city known the world over. 
 
 The Burning Qhat. 
 
 In the midst of these places of worship is located the Burning Ghat, where 
 bodies are brought from all over India to be bathed in the Ganges, and then 
 cremated on its banks. 
 
 Smoke from four pyres was seen as we approached the ghat, and several, 
 corpses, wrapped in white cloth, and lashed between two stout sticks, were being 
 washed in the sacred stream, while the relatives of the dead were preparing the 
 wood, near by, for the cremation. 
 
 Bedecked with flowers, and sometimes wearing jewelry, the bodies are lain 
 between layers of wood, the ashes are cast into the water, and we saw a number 
 of men at work who make a regular business of searching the shore and filtering 
 the water through baskets in search of jewels or money that perchance might 
 have dropped from the dead. 
 
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 (2t5i 
 
2l6 
 
 AROUND THE WORIyD. 
 
 What a comment on humanity — the religious devotee, the fakir, the beggar, 
 the mourner, the stiff corpse and the money-grabber (who is always and every- 
 where on hand) , mingled together in the holy city on the sacred river. 
 
 A Jlonkey Temple. 
 
 Gne of the most curious places visited was the Durga, or Monkey Temple. 
 Durga is thought to delight in all kinds of bloodshed and destruction, and while I 
 watched the worshipers, a man approached the blood-bedabbled altar in front of 
 
 the shrine, and, having placed a num- 
 ber of coins in the hands of the offi- 
 ciating priest, was given the privilege 
 of having a little kid that he held 
 under his arm beheaded, and after the 
 Gharp blade had descended, he made 
 an offering of the head and carried the 
 body away to his home. 
 
 In the yards and trees about the 
 temple are hosts of monkeys, who 
 spring into your pathway, peer round 
 the walls, snatch at your clothes and 
 -.nake the most comical grimaces at 
 j'ou on the least provocation, but it is 
 a crime to molest them, for they are 
 gods and goddesses, held in the high- 
 est veneration. 
 
 I could hardly suppress an irre- 
 ligious laugh as I watched one of 
 these goddesses, holding a baby god 
 under her left arm, while she held a 
 nut in her right hand, on which she 
 was nibbling in the most human 
 fashion, and during the performance she was making the most unholy faces at me 
 because of my inferiority. 
 
 What the monkey is to Vishnu the cow and bull are to Siva. To slaughter 
 these' animals is a horrible crime, and in everj'- part of India can be found temples 
 dedicated to their honor, where they are kept with the greatest care. 
 
 The "Holy Man." 
 
 One of the curiosities of humanity is the " holy man of Benares," whom I 
 visited last evening. His long-continued acts of penance have worn his body to 
 
 A MOUNTAIN MUSICIAN, INDIA. 
 
•(217) 
 
2l8 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 skin and bones. He is thought by many to be above all passion and sin: he 
 
 declines to receive anything from visitors, and his bright eyes, sweet expression 
 
 and soft voice seem 
 to indicate that he pos- 
 s esses a serenity in 
 life that is enjoyed by 
 few. On leaving him 
 he presented me with a 
 book containing his fa- 
 vorite studies. As I 
 have not yet finished 
 pronouncing the au- 
 thor's name on the first 
 page, I am not pre- 
 pared to pass an opinion 
 on the merits of the 
 work. It is written 
 by Matparamahausa- 
 parinrajakacharyaswa- 
 mibhaskaranandasaras- 
 wati! I am doubtful 
 whether penance or pro- 
 nunciation caused the 
 thinness of the ' ' holy 
 man of Benares," for 
 after my frantic efibrts 
 to pronounce the name 
 of this distinguished 
 author I feel that I 
 weigh less! Perhaps 
 the celebrated anti-fat 
 preparation is an ex- 
 tract from this tire- 
 some name, whose 
 
 owner died of exhaustion, and whose owner's disciple is growing thinner and 
 
 thinner every day. 
 
 In the Bazaars. 
 
 To those who enjoy examining curios and artistic manufactures the bazaars of 
 Benares will prove to be especially attractive. The city is famous for its beauti- 
 fully engraved brasswork, and trays, water vessels, bowls, lotus dishes, candle-sticks, 
 
 HOI,Y MAN. 
 
(219) 
 
220 AROUND THE WORLD • 
 
 lamps, fancy boxes, bells, spoons and scores of other utensils, engraved most exqui- 
 sitely, can be purchased for remarkably cheap prices. 
 
 Rich brocades wrought with figures of animals in gold and variegated colors, 
 the oldest survival of ancient loomwork extant and the finest of its kind in the 
 world, are found in the tiny shops in the bazaars, and this beautiful work is done 
 by experts who receive about three or four dollars a week. 
 
 When a piece is finished it is "worth its weight in gold," but the poor 
 fellow whose genius created the masterpiece lives and dies in poverty, while some 
 merchant in Europe or America gets the " weight in gold." 
 
 Some of these brilliantly figured brocades bring to mind the description of 
 Ulysses' dress, as given in the nineteenth book of the Odyssey: 
 
 " In ample mode 
 A robe of military purple flowed 
 O'er all his frame, illustrious on his breast 
 The double-clasping gold the king confest. 
 In the rich woof a hound, mosaic drawn, 
 Bore on full stretch and seized a dappled fawn; 
 Deep in his neck his fangs indent their hold; 
 They pant and struggle in the moving gold. 
 Fine as a filmy web beneath it shone 
 A vest that dazzled like a cloudless sun." 
 
 An Elegy in Harble. 
 
 In neariug Agra and Delhi we were soon to look upon the most superb 
 monument ever reared to woman and the most magnificent palace in the world. 
 From every elevated point of view in and around Agra, this city of castles and 
 palaces, can be seen the shining domes and minarets of the Taj Mahal, the most 
 beautiful tomb and one of the most renowned buildings in the world. It was 
 erected during the first half of the seventeenth century by Shah Jehan for the 
 body of his wife, Arjamand Banu, and history tells us that it required twenty 
 thousand workmen to labor twenty-two years and necessitated an expenditure of 
 four million pounds sterling before it was completed. It was the ambition of the 
 great Mogul Emperor to erect the most superb monument ever reared to commem- 
 orate a woman's name, and the verdict of the ages is not only that his purpose 
 was fulfilled, but that in this effort to translate his loyal and royal love into 
 marble, Mohammedan architecture reached its climax and the world was enriched 
 by the most perfect poem in stone. 
 
 Passing over a road amidst the ruins of many ancient palaces, you stand 
 before a gateway of red sandstone, inlaid with floral designs and passages from the 
 Koran in white marble. Through this splendid entrance, which is 140 feet high 
 and no feet wide, you enter a garden filled with palms, peepuls, thuja and 
 
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222 A.ROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 pomegranate, in the centre of which is a long tank of pure marble, reaching away 
 for three or four hundred feet, containing a score of fountains, and the lovely vista 
 closes at the base of the snow-white platform on which the Taj rests. 
 
 Arjamand's nausoleum. 
 
 The building itself, i86 feet square and 220 feet high to the top of the dome, 
 is raised upon a plinth 313 feet square, 18 feet above thelevel of the garden. At 
 each corner of this platform stand four tapering minarets 137 feet high, and at 
 each side of the Taj, 400 feet back across a great court flagged with marble, are 
 imposing mosques of red stone, richly decorated with mosaics of marble, topped 
 with three white domes, which are among the finest in India. 
 
 The milk-whiteness of this great mass of marble is broken onlj' by the carving- 
 and inlaid flowers done in precious stones, combined in wreaths, scrolls and frets, 
 which greet the eye as you enter through the wonderful door. 
 
 The inner walls of this burial place of the loved Arjamand are found to be as 
 much a marvel of subtle shadow and chastened light, decked with exquisite 
 jewelry, as the exterior is noble and sublime, and, as you study panel by panel, 
 column by column, trellis- work after trellis- work, inlaid most gracefully and 
 elaborately in jasper, coral, bloodstone, nacre, onyx, turquoise, sardonyx and the 
 most precious gems, you are willing to agree that the Moguls designed like giants 
 and finished like jewelers. 
 
 Memory of Undying Love. 
 
 Beneath the glorious dome, in the centre of the edifice, are two sarcophagi 
 covering the spots in the vault below where the ashes of the one for whom, the 
 tomb was built and the builder of the tomb rest. At the threshold are inscribed 
 the words: " To the memory of an undying love," and the Emperor has immor- 
 talized, if he could not preserve alive for one brief day, the one whom he named 
 "Exalted one of the palace." 
 
 My first view of the Taj was when its pure dome was dazzling under the 
 bright sunshine of midday, and I was sure that nothing could exceed its splendor 
 and brilliancy. My next view was more enchanting, and the impression made 
 upon my mind by this ghostly hall of death is fadeless. 
 
 The silver moon, set in a cloudless sky, cast a soft glow over the scene as I 
 passed into the garden scented by roses and jasmine; the quiet shrubs and trees 
 were reflected in lakes of clearest water, and as I quietly sat on the extreme end 
 of the snowy platform overlooking the sacred Jumna and studied this masterpiece 
 of love, my admiration and astonishment gave birth to the overpowering thought 
 that seldom, if ever, in human history has man's affections struggled so ardently. 
 
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 (223) 
 
224 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 passionately and triumphantly against the oblivion of death as in this mass of 
 marble that is unmarked by the relentless tooth of time. 
 
 The marble of the structure came from Rajpootana, the diamonds and jasper 
 from Punjab, the carnelians and agates from Thibet, the corals from Arabia, the 
 sapphires and other precious stones from Ceylon, and the genius that turned this 
 stone into ' ' frozen music ' ' was the gift of Heaven to Austin, of Bordeaux, who, 
 driven by a strange fate from his European home, was employed by Shah Jehan 
 in the erection of more than one architectural monument by which his name, as 
 the " greatest of builders," has passed down the ages. 
 
 Reign of the Moguls. 
 
 Here in Agra, as in many other places in India, have I tried to study the 
 Stupendous ruins that mark the places where the great Mogul dynasty, under its 
 different famous rulers, held absolute sway over millions of souls, and by this 
 debris of the ages can you trace its history from its crowning period, in the time 
 of Babar the Lion, down to the siege of Delhi. 
 
 The Mogul Humayun, whose brilliant court was known the world over, vi^as 
 succeeded by his son Akbar the Great, who did more than any other to establish 
 the imperial system, during whose reign several magnificent palaces and strong 
 forts were built, and who caused the gates of Chittor to be set up at Agra. 
 
 His son, Jehan gir, did not greatty distinguish himself, but his grandson, 
 Shah. Jehan, who was proclaimed Emperor at Agra in 1628, gave a new impetus 
 to architectural works, and during his reign the Pearl Mosque, the Great Mosque 
 and the famous Khas Mahal were built, and the erection of the Taj and other 
 tombs by him associate his name with some of the most remarkable and unique 
 Structures in the land. 
 
 Palace at Delhi. 
 
 The imperial palace, erected by this prince of builders at Delhi, is regarded 
 by many as the most splendid palace in the world. The area within the massive 
 and lofty red sandstone walls is more than a thousand yards long by five hundred 
 yards wide, and is entered by a gate which is one hundred and forty feet high, its 
 interior being a vaulted hall three hundred and seventy-five feet long, resembling 
 very much a gigantic gothic cathredral. 
 
 Within the inclosure the first building you reach is the Diwan-i-am or public 
 hall or audience, a beautiful colonnaded structure of red sandstone and inlaid 
 marble. In the centre of the back wall is the royal throne and canopy of white 
 marble, decorated with bits of precious stones representing flowers, fi^uits and birds. 
 
 The Dewan-i-Khas, or private hall of audience, is a building of white marble, 
 ornamented without and within by inlaid work, and the ceiling is decorated richly 
 with gold. In the centre of this hall stands a pure marble dais, on which rested 
 
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226 AROUND THE "WORI.D 
 
 tlie noted peacock throne, a seat between two peacocks, whose spread tails were 
 decked with sapphires, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and other stones in imitation 
 of the natural colors, and perched above all was a parrot, said to have been carved 
 from a single emerald. It seems in design, proportions and decorations to be 
 perfect, and one can easily appreciate the feeling that prompted the Persian 
 inscription that is written over the north and south arches of the hall: " If there 
 be a 'Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this." 
 
 The Jama Husjid. 
 
 Not far away rises the great dome of the Jama Musjid, ■which is without rival 
 among mosques. Six years Shah Jehan was engaged in building it. There are 
 three stately gates, approached by great flights of steps; the courtyard is 450 feet 
 square, paved with granite, inlaid with marble; the mosque is 260 feet long and. 
 120 feet wide, and the building is crowned by three domes of snow-white marble, 
 with two loft}' minarets of marble and sandstone in alternate stripes. 
 
 The floor is paved with slabs of white marble, with a border of black; each 
 slab is three feet long by one and a half broad, and forms "a pew " for one person 
 on Friday, when devoiit Mohammedans throng the place. 
 
 Delhi's Ruins and ilonkeys. 
 
 For centuries Delhi was the proudest capital of the Mogul empire, and I spent 
 a week visiting and studying the ruins of seven distinct ancient cities within a 
 circle of twenty miles about the present city, each of which was, in its time, a 
 place of oriental splendor, but all that can be found of them now are broken streets, 
 crumbling forts, decaying pillars, leaning towers and tottering walls of grand old 
 castles and palaces, and where the mighty Moguls reigned in glory the jackals, 
 and wolves awake the echoes, by night, with their hideous cries. 
 
 The monkey seems to be the present Mog^l of Delhi. Hundreds of these: 
 comical creatures are seen on the pavements, fences, trees and housetops of the 
 city, and although they are up to all kinds of pranks, you dare not injure one of 
 thein unless you are willing to pay a fine of fifty rupees in court. 
 
 A school teacher told me that she rented a large building for her classes for a 
 very small amount of money because the monkeys were so troublesome in the; 
 neighborhood. Several times they entered the building most unceremoniously, 
 scuffling and fighting as they dashed through the door or windows, and, of course, 
 during the edifying performances her classes suspended operations. A child 
 asked her, one day, whether she would be excused while she went on the roof for- 
 her^shoe. A monkey had quietly slipped into the room, snatched up the child's 
 shoe, which had been left near the door, and there it was on the flat roof trying, 
 to make an external application of the pupil's understanding! 
 
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 A veteran missionary told me that a workman of his acquaintance placed his 
 lunch, wrapped up in a cloth, on the limb of a tree, while he was working near by- 
 A monkey carried the bundle to the top of the tree, sedately unrolled it, ate the 
 contents and politely took the cloth back and hung it in its proper place. The 
 next day the workman placed a snake in the cloth; his monkeyship repeated his 
 theft, but when the snake sprang out, after blinking his eyes for an instant to help 
 him take in the situation, the monkey rubbed the snake's head off against the 
 limb, threw the limp thing at the man, and hung the lunch cloth on the highest 
 twig of the tree. Doubtless you will think I commenced with the sublime and 
 closed with the ridiculous. 
 
 An Indian Wolf-rian. 
 
 "While in Japan a friend, who spent several years in India, spoke to me of the 
 wolf-boy who was caught some years ago in one of the northwest provinces of the 
 country, and urged me on my arrival in Agra to call at the Secundra Orphanage, 
 near the city, and see this human curiosity. As this strange creature has never, 
 as far as I am aware, been mentioned by tourists, and as I have secured reliable 
 information about him from Dr. C. S. Valentine, principal of the Agra Medical 
 Missionary Training Institute, I desire to give these fact to my readers. 
 
 In the Spring of 1867 a number of natives in search of game in the 
 unfrequented jungles of Bulandshahr, situated in Northwestern India, surprised 
 a stray wolf, which they followed to a hillock, out of which rose a rock, and on 
 this rock, apparently sunning itself, sat a dark, curious-looking object which, to 
 their great astonishment, turned out to be a human being, who, on seeing the 
 hunters, sprang from the rock, and, running on all fours, entered a cave with the 
 pursued wolf. 
 
 The frightened natives returned immediately to Bulandshahr, and, having 
 related what they saw to the magistrate of the place, they were advised to kindle 
 a fire at the mouth of the cave and smoke the thing from its den. This was done. 
 The strange creature rushed out, and after a struggle, during which several of the 
 natives were bitten, it was overpowered and captured. 
 
 The Wolf-Boy. 
 
 Here, in the wild jungles, running on all-fours, covered with filth ana vermin, 
 his face partially hidden by long, matted hair, and having no companion but the 
 wolf, was a boy, who at the time when he was found could not have been more 
 than seven or eight years of age. As one listens to Dr. Valentine telling the 
 story he is tempted to believe in the ancient fable of Romulus and Remus. 
 
 A few weeks after he was caught the wolf-boy was sent by the magistrate to 
 the Secundra Orphanage, and as he entered the institution on Saturday he was 
 
THE KUTUB MINAR, DKLHI. 
 
 (229) 
 
230 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 named Sanichar. For a long time after lie came to the orphanage it was impossible 
 to get him to act as a human being. He persisted in eating his food from the 
 ground, picking up vegetables with his lips and gnawing flesh from bones with his 
 teeth, like a carniverous animal, and the clothes with which he was supplied he 
 tore into shreds and cast them away as encumbrances. By degrees he grew more 
 docile, and, although he has never spoken a word, he gradually conformed some- 
 what to his surroundings, but he insists upon eating with his fingers. 
 
 It is thought that he is now about thirty-six or thirty-seven years old, although 
 he looks much older. 
 
 His Appearance and Training. 
 
 His head is small, his brow uncommonly low and contracted, while his eyes 
 are of a grayish color, restless and sq^uinting. He has a small, thin, wrinkled 
 face, on which are two large cicatrices, marks, doubtless, of severe bites that were 
 received by him. On other parts of his body are found scars and other signs of 
 rough treatment to which he was subjected no doubt while living in the cave with 
 his wild companions. When he stands erect he is five feet and two inches in 
 height ; in walking he lifts his feet as if he were wading through wet grass, 
 and when he moves along all the muscles of his body seem to be undergoing a 
 series of jerks, while his arms are thrown about in such a manner as to convey 
 the impression that they must greatly assist him in his progress. 
 
 His head is continually in motion, turning from side to side with g^eat 
 rapidity, whUe his eyes, which at all times have a hungry appearance, glare as if 
 he expected an attack from some unseen enemy. When viewed from behind as he 
 walks, or when he stands in front of you with his head hanging on one side, 
 flashing his sharp eyes and beating his stomach to show that he is hungry, while 
 he utters inarticulate sounds, he presents a strange appearance indeed. He has 
 evidently been totally deaf and dumb since his capture, and although all attempts 
 to teach him to speak have failed, by signs those who care for him can get him to 
 sit, stand, and run. 
 
 If poor Sanichar, the wolf-boy, had received the same care that was bestowed 
 upon the afflicted I,aura Bridgeman, it is possible that his faculties might have 
 been sufficiently developed to enable him to impart at least something concerning 
 the first years of his life, which must now always remain an unsolved mystery. 
 
 Invasions of India. 
 
 India has suffered from nine great invasions during its checkered history. 
 The first was the Aryan invasion, which took place many j-ears before the 
 Christian era; the second was headed by Alexander the Great, when the Bactran 
 empire was established in the second century B.C.; then followed the Scj^hian 
 
232 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 invasion, first century, A. D. ; the Mahmondef Ghazins' conquest, when a Turk 
 
 established rule and Mohammedan religion; the invasion of Tamerlane the Great, 
 
 1398 ; the Mogul empire, founded by Baber, 1524; the Persian conquest of 
 
 Mohammedanism and the setting up of the Hindu reaction in 1739; the Ahmed 
 
 Shah Abdalis invasion in 1761, in which the Mahratta power was crushed and 
 
 more than 700,000 men were killed, and, lastly, the English invasion. 
 
 To-day nearly all of India is ruled absolutely by Great Britain, while by 
 
 sufferance there are certain States supposed to be " independent, ' ' ruled over by 
 
 Maharajahs. In these are placed English "residents," or rather English spies, 
 
 and the home government at I/Dndon knows exactly what is going on and the 
 
 " policy " of these native rulers is decided for them by the little island across the 
 
 seas. 
 
 A Native Ruler. 
 
 The beautiful city of Jeypore is the capital of the territory belonging to 
 Maharajah Mardozing, whose province is about the size of Massachusetts, and as 
 the ruler is a cultivated, progressive gentleman, quite democratic in his manner 
 of dealing with foreigners, no difl&culty was encountered in visiting his palaces 
 and seeing something of him personally. 
 
 His travels in Europe have made their impfessions upon him, and the well- 
 paved streets, the public mint, the museum, the observatory, the hospitals and the 
 excellent school buildings all go to prove that he is much more Western than 
 Eastern in his ideas. Indeed the general appearance of the small dominion of 
 this native prince exhibits a favorable contrast to India generally, over which the 
 authority of England extends. 
 
 The Maharajah's stables contain nine hundred horses, seven hundred camels 
 and eighty-five elephants; and five hundred servants wait upon his wives and keep 
 the magnificent palaces and gardens in order. By the kindness of his honor four 
 elephants were placed at the service of our party of sixteen; each elephant 
 was attended by two servants from the palace, in livery; and each swaying elephant 
 back carrying four jolly Americans we proceeded to the royal summer palace, 
 several miles from the city walls. 
 
 A Ride on Elephant-Back. 
 
 These great creatures are easily controlled by their drivers, who sit just back 
 of their ears and frequently use the sharp iron-pointed rod to guide them; but 
 when the shufiiing, flat-footed tread became monotonous, and at my urgent request 
 the beast was made to trot, we could imagine that we were again on a rolling ocean 
 steamer, and the performance was soon brought to a close. 
 
 Passing through the old city of Ambar, which is now in ruins, the elephants 
 wind slowly up the steep slopes which lead to the entrance of the palace, which is 
 
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 defended by a narrow approach with three massive gateways, the last of which 
 opens on a great square, where the elephants at the command of the drivers drop 
 on their knees and, with the aid of short ladders, the riders alight. Through 
 brass doorways and alcoves of embroidered marble we pass into the second court- 
 yard, and about us are the " Court of Honor," the " Men's Abode," which is 
 said to contain the finest portal in the world, the " Hall of Victory," adorned by 
 panels of alabaster, inlaid with birds, flowers and arabesques in various colors, 
 the roof glittering with the mirrored and spangled work for which Jeypore art is 
 renowned, and beyond these is the " Alcove of Light," which glows with tender 
 colors and exquisite inlaid work and looks through arches of carved ala- 
 baster and laced marble work upon the placid lake and silent mountains. In 
 
 the independent State of Baroda, ac- 
 companied by my host, Captain Lynn, 
 I visited the palace which contains 
 the famous regalia of Baroda, among 
 which is seen the gorgeous collar of 
 five hundred diamonds, the pendant 
 of which is the famous ' ' Star of the 
 Deccan," and a carpet ten feet by six 
 woven entirely of strings of pure 
 pearls, with central and corner circles 
 of diamonds. Near this palace are 
 two gold cannon, weighing two hun- 
 dred and eighty pounds each, with 
 two companions of silver, the wagons, 
 bullock harness and ramrods being all 
 of silver. It is the ambition of each 
 Maharajah to outshine his predecessor. 
 
 Indian Customs. 
 
 The country is inhabited by people 
 of various colors, customs and lan- 
 guages, although it is generally sup- 
 posed that the different tongues can be traced to the mother Sanskrit, and the 
 people to a great extent find a common origin in the Indo-Caucasian stock. 
 
 The Bengalee, which is very much like the Sanskrit, is spoken in Bengal; 
 
 the Orria in the Orissa; the Tamul in Madras, by the Moharaslitros; and the 
 
 Hindoosthanee, in all its different forms, is spoken in the northwestern provinces. 
 
 . The Brahmans, in their religious services and frequently in conversation, use 
 
 the Sanskrit, but the other castes generally adopt the Bengalee. 
 
 AN INDIAN RUSTIC. 
 
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 The Bengalees, in bodily structure, are delicate, and in disposition are mild 
 and peaceable; on the other hand, the peoples of Upper India are brave, haughty 
 and warlike, and physically they are robust and muscular. 
 
 Use of Tobacco. 
 
 In the use of tobacco these people are much more careful than more 
 ' civili^zed "nations. The tobacco leaves, with other ingredients, are chopped up, 
 
 put in the earth for sev- 
 eral days, and the 
 smoker does not draw 
 the smoke directly into 
 his mouth, but it passes 
 through a long pipe, 
 comes into the bottom 
 of the hooka, which is 
 full of cold water, and 
 making its way through 
 another pipe at last 
 reaches the mouth. The 
 tarie, or the juice of the 
 palm or date tree, is 
 used by the low caste 
 people generally; it can 
 be easily pressed from 
 the stalks of the plant 
 and it quickly intoxi- 
 cates. 
 
 I noticed that the 
 Hindus frequently ap- 
 pealed to the heavenly 
 bodies. On the tfemple 
 walls you find the 
 signs of the zodiac, and 
 ■fay the motion of the stars and the eclipses they base their prophecies of good 
 
 or evil. 
 
 Sacred Time. 
 
 Three months in the year are regarded by the Hindus as sacred, viz. , Bois- 
 Ak (April), Kartic (October), and Magh (January). The first, commencing the 
 new year, is the holiest of all. The stores and homes are fancifully decorated, 
 the scales and weights are washed and worshiped, the first page of account books 
 
 LLAMA. WITH PRAYING WHEEL. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 237 
 
 is ornamented at the top with two round figures marked with red and yellow 
 powders. Every day the book begins by a deposit of a small amount of money to 
 the credit of a favorite deity, and when the year draws to a close the money is 
 accurately collected and used for purposes of worship. 
 
 On New Year's Day (first of April) all orthodox Hindus are expected to 
 dedicate pitchers to the gods and deceased ancestors. As these are supposed to be 
 thirsty at this hot sea- 
 son earthen, brazen 
 or silver pitchers (ac- 
 cording to the cir- 
 cumstances of the de- 
 dicator) are placed in 
 a row, with trays full 
 of fruit on their tops. 
 The first is offered to 
 the gods, the second 
 to the gooroo, or 
 priest, the third to the 
 father of the dead, 
 the fourth to the 
 grandfather, etc. 
 Each day of this 
 month is marked by 
 some feast or cere- 
 mony, and full thirty 
 days are spent in the 
 most reckless forms of 
 dissipation and idola- 
 trous superstition. 
 
 A narriage Procession. 
 
 The visitor to In- 
 dia cannot well miss a 
 marriage procession, 
 for it is of daily oc- 
 currence in the large 
 cities, and, as the whole affair is of the most fantastic character, accompanied 
 by the most fearful strains of music, he cannot but be attracted by it. 
 
 In the ranks are generally to be seen white horses, painted sky-blue or bright 
 yellow; sacred bullocks, caparisoned in the most brilliant style, drawing covered 
 
 DANCING GIEI,, OF JEYPORE, INDIA. 
 
238 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 carts, with peep-holes, in which the women of the harem ride. In the midst of 
 the crowd are painted and powdered men carrying banners, on which are ludicrous 
 figures, and near the band of musicians is seen the boy bridegroom, perhaps 
 
 conspicuously perched 
 on an elephant, unac- 
 companied by his 
 bride, who does not 
 appear in public. 
 
 This is usually 
 known as a marriage 
 procession, but it is 
 really a betrothal, for 
 years may elapse be- 
 fore the y o u t h f u 1 
 groom of ten and the 
 baby bride of six 
 summers have any 
 communication at all 
 with each other, al- 
 though nothing but 
 death can interrupt 
 the union after the 
 ceremony is over. 
 
 Women's Ornaments. 
 
 The brilliant or- 
 naments worn by girls 
 and women in every 
 part of India attract 
 more attention than 
 a dm i r a t i o n . This 
 morning I took a men- 
 tal photograph of a 
 swarthy female, flash- 
 iNDiAN ACTRESS. i„g and tinkling 
 
 with bangles on her wrists, ankles, arms, ears and nose. The heavy rings 
 dragged her ears quite out of shape; her perforated nostrils were ornamented 
 with trinkets that extended nearly to her chin; her brown limbs and arms were 
 decked with great rings of silver and gilt, and part of her bosom was tattooed 
 with blue and red ink. She was a poor fruitseller in the market-place, but her 
 
(239) 
 
240 AROUND THE WORIvD. 
 
 poverty could not gain the victory over her vanity, which, to some extent, seems 
 to be a trait of character among all nations and of both sexes. 
 
 There is a class of women called Nautch dancers who are sometimes seen on 
 the streets, but those whose performances are regarded as most artistic are 
 monopolized by the rajahs and maharajahs, who allow them to dance in public 
 during royal receptions and festivities. At the ' ' audience ' ' given by the maha- 
 rajah at Jeypore, sixty -five of these toe artists entertained the ruler, about a 
 thousand natives and a small party of Americans, and I suppose the ridiculous 
 shuffling gave a fair idea of the typical Oriental dance. 
 
 One who is much more gifted in describing a woman's attire than I, furnishes 
 me with the description of one of these professional and royal dancers, which I 
 append. 
 
 Royal Dancers. 
 
 The leading dancer was dressed in a close-fitting garment, with long sleeves 
 and a very full skirt, much plaited in at the waist, made of the finest transparent 
 muslin of a light violet color, trimmed nearly to her waist with rows of broad 
 gold brocade lace, as also about her shoulders and bust with the same. This 
 dress was confined slightly at her waist by a scarf of bright green muslin spotted 
 with gold, whose ends of gold brocade fell on her left side, and had the effect of 
 raising the skirt a little so as to show her trousers of the richest cloth of gold. 
 With one end tucked into her waistband, a splendid Benares scarf of filmy 
 amber muslin-gauze, profusely flowered with gold, having borders and ends of the 
 same, passed over her left arm and head and fell over her right shoulder. 
 
 The gold ornaments on her head and arms were all handsome and in great 
 profusion, and her gold anklets, whose tiny bells jingled as she moved, had a row 
 of large brilliant stones on their bands, which flashed as she danced, and gave, so 
 some of the Americans thought, a charming efiect to the tiny, graceful feet on 
 which they rested. 
 
 The Indian Hutiny. 
 
 There is no bloodier chapter in the history of this century than that record- 
 ing the heartrending scenes of the Indian mutiny of 1857. -A-s I visited the places 
 in Cawnpore, Delhi and Lucknow, which have been made historic by the bold 
 uprising of the natives of India, by the fearful suffering and slaughter of English 
 women and children, and by the heroic bravery of British soldiery, I experienced 
 mingled feelings of horror, sadness and approbation. 
 
 While making these studies, I have had by my side most of the time an old 
 soldier who was wounded three times during the mutiny, who followed Havelock 
 and Outram in their noble charges and sieges, and whose eloquent recital of these 
 thrilling events added no little to the interest elicited by these localities. 
 
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 After much controversy on the subject the weight of testimony seems to 
 support the opinion that the origin of the outbrealc can be found in both political 
 and religious tendencies that had been growing in power for years before it 
 actually burst forth. 
 
 lyOng before 1857 it was known that the Mohammedans were dissatisfied with 
 their subordinate position, and their increasing idleness and immoral conduct 
 rendered them insolent and fractious. This restless feeling was fanned into a 
 flame when the royal family was dismissed from their residence in the fortress at 
 Delhi by the English government, and especiailly when, through the influence of 
 lyOrd Hastings, the kingdom of Oude was annexed to the British possessions. 
 But the Mohammedans, on account of their numerical inferiority, could do noth- 
 ing as long as' the Hindu soldiers remained true to England. The wily Moham- 
 medans, aided by a concatenation of circumstances, were enabled to overcome 
 this difficiilty. It was sedulously reported that the British government had 
 determined to force all of its subjects to embrace Christianity, and, in order to 
 accomplish this end, a plan had been devised by which the whole of the Hindu 
 sepoys would become defiled and break their caste. 
 
 As it was well known that no Hindu could remain clean and touch with 
 his lips the grease of animals, the Mohammedan emissaries declared that the 
 government had adopted the device of issuing cartridges greased with pigs' and 
 bullocks' fat for the Enfield rifles, the end of which must be bitten off before 
 they could be used. When a Hindu touched the unclean thing with his lips 
 and teeth of course he would become an outcast, and there could be no other 
 resource for him except to join the religion of his masters. 
 
 The leaders of the two great classes of natives were soon united in their pur- 
 poses; regiment after regiment rebelled; fort after fort was besieged; and the spirit 
 of the insurgents spread rapidly throughout northern India. The King of Delhi 
 was proclaimed sovereign of the whole country; the stores of firearms and ammu- 
 nition were seized; English officers were shot down by the native soldiers while 
 at drill; the residences of foreigners were broken into and plundered as quickly as 
 they could be reached; neither age nor sex was spared, and within twenty-four 
 hours from the time when the first gun was fired a frightful massacre was being 
 perpetrated in fifteen or twenty villages and cities. 
 
 Nana Sahib's Perfidy. 
 
 My old friend. Captain Lee, who received a terrible sabre gash while fighting 
 on the streets of Cawnpore, pointed out the scenes of the struggle at this place 
 and vividly described the disaster that befell the British arms early in the combat. 
 
 Sir Hugh Wheeler intrenched himself in the barracks with a force of about 
 three hundred soldiers, who were protecting five hundred women and children, 
 
( 243 ! 
 
244 AROUND THE WORI.D. 
 
 the families of officers and civilians. The insurgents were commanded by Nana 
 Sahib, who nurtured a deadly hatred against the government foi declining to 
 recognize in him the successor of a late ruler to whom he was connected by 
 adoption, and, wearied by the desperate resistance of the men in the barracks, he 
 offered to give to all a safe passage to Allahabad if a surrender was made. 
 
 The terms of the perfidious enemy were accepted. Unarmed men, with 
 hundreds of helpless women and children, marched to the river bank, and just 
 as they were about to embark a masked battery opened fire on them, the 
 murderous shots killing six hundred and fifty out of the eight hundred. This 
 apparent success seemed only to inflame the demon Nana. The one hundred and 
 fift}' prisoners were brought into his presence. The men were tortured and 
 slowl)' put to death, and the others, after undergoing the most horrible ordeal, 
 were butchered by savages and their bodies cast into a well. 
 
 Marochetti's beautiful monument raised over this well is a pure white marble 
 figure of an angel, with folded wings and palm-laden hands, with its eyes sadly 
 cast downward toward the spot where the dead and djdng were hurled. 
 
 The Defence of Lucknow. 
 
 Although the mutiny broke out in the early summer, Havelock and Outram 
 did not succeed in forcing their way into lyucknow until the twenty-fifth of 
 September, when they came to the relief of the British residency. During these 
 months a handful of men held the place against thousands of native soldiers. 
 Many within the walls died from wounds and exhaustion, while several officers, 
 among them Sir Henry lyawrence, fell before the shot of the enemy. Women, as 
 is always the case under similar circumstances, acted with transcendent heroism, 
 and when at last succor came, tears of men, women and children mingled in 
 thanksgiving. 
 
 As I walked through the hushed chambers of the Residency, Tennyson's 
 " Defence of Lucknow " came to mind, and in leaving, as I looked back upon its 
 broken and shot-scarred walls, I recalled the words of the angelic chorus over the 
 birth of one greater than Tennyson. 
 
 England may well shudder as she notices the indications of another Indian 
 mutiny. While victory has crowned English arms of late, in Northern India, and 
 the warlike tribes have been driven from their strongholds in the mountains, the 
 end is not yet. There is danger now, as there always has been, of a Moham- 
 medan uprising. The Mohammedan does not make a clear distinction between 
 the English and other European nations. The reports have been spread among 
 them that the Sultan's army has defeated the Greeks; this means to them that the 
 Crescent has been victorious over the Cross; and their hatred against the Christian 
 
(245) 
 
246 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 never was more intense than now. It is thought by some that the mutinous: 
 rumbling will grow louder; the bloody scenes of 1857 will be repeated; and the 
 map of the East may be changed. 
 
 Caste and Outcasts. 
 
 The caste system, which is so closely connected with the origin of the mutiny, 
 exists in India as nowhere else in the world. Among the primitive Hindus there. 
 
 were only four castes, 
 viz., the Brahman, 
 the highest, which 
 embraced the priest- 
 hood; the Kais-th, 
 which included the 
 trading classes; the 
 Khetryas, the gov- 
 erning and soldier 
 caste, and the Soo- 
 dras, embracing the 
 laboring population. 
 
 The members of 
 these primary castes, 
 notwithstanding they 
 had a common lan- 
 guage and religion, 
 socially were separated 
 by insurmountable 
 walls. 
 
 In course of time 
 the four divisions 
 grew into many more 
 castes, and at the 
 present day every line 
 of activity is formed 
 into a kind of close 
 corporation, and each 
 is absolutely exclusive 
 of the others. For 
 instance, there is a 
 weaver caste, and a weaver's son can marry only a weaver's daughter, and a 
 weaver's daughter cannot marry any one except a weaver's son; members of the 
 
 HIGH CASTE INDIAN WOMAN. 
 
(247) 
 
248 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 shoemaking caste cannot intermarry with any other caste ; and so with the 
 blacksmith caste, the goldsmith caste, the washer caste, the farmer caste, the 
 barber caste, and so ou. With the exception of the Soodra caste, the members 
 of which are virtually outcasts, no one can come into any of the castes except 
 by birth. 
 
 In other coiintries, by opulence, learning, application, etc., a person of 
 obscure birth can exalt himself in the social scale, but not so in India. An 
 orthodox Hindu will tell you' that a person's position at birth is a dispensation 
 of nature, and as it is impossible to transform a dog into an ox, a deer into a 
 camel, a horse into an elephant, so you cannot make a barber out of a weaver, 
 a physician out of a cobbler, or a priest out of a farmer. 
 
 One of the greatest calamities that can befall a Hindu is to have his caste 
 broken, for then he is known as an "outcast," and he and his family are 
 disgraced forever. If a member of one caste eats anything or drinks anything 
 that has been touched by any one not belonging to his caste, or if he eats 
 with, drinks with or sleeps with any such person, he loses caste immediately, 
 and the restoration of his loss is an impossibility. 
 
 Unintentionally I came very near bringing a calamity upon a man's business 
 and getting myself into a serious complication. In the market-place of Agra I 
 paused before a stand containing Indian sweetmeats, and desiring to sample the 
 dark-colored sugar I touched a small lump to my mouth, and was about to replace 
 the sugar, when three men sprang forward, and such a fuss I have not heard for 
 many a day. An old gentleman, who has lived fifty-six years in India, told me 
 that if the lump that had been placed to my mouth had fallen among the sweet- 
 meats the Hindu would have been obliged to close out his business, and any court 
 in India would have given him damages to the value of his stock. 
 
 Generally it is dangerous for a man to put his mouth into another man's 
 business. In this instance, I came near making the fatal mistake of putting 
 another man's business into mj' mouth! Since studying this question I learned 
 of the enemy of a certain high caste Brahman who secretly kneaded the flour in 
 the Brahman's kitchen. The Brahman and his family ate the bread, and they 
 irretrievably lost their caste and social standing. 
 
 If a man of one caste should intentionally or accidentally run his finger into 
 the mouth of a man of a diflFerent caste, immediately the latter becomes an outcast. 
 Not an external, but an internal, touch does the business. If a pin should drop 
 from the mouth of a low Soodra, and a high and mighty Brahman (they all go 
 barefooted) should step on it, he would not only jump high, but he would fall 
 low, for he would lose caste forever. 
 
 The names of thirty-four distinct castes, the outgrowth of the original four, 
 have been given me, and, doubtless, there are many more recognized by the 
 
(.249) 
 
250 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 Hindus of India. Every caste has its panchayat, or governing committee, and 
 these committees have absolute power in all social questions. If a young man 
 ■desires, or, rather, if his parents desire him, to marry a woman (of course, of his 
 caste,) the panchayat committee is called together, and they arrange all details; 
 but the committee sometimes disagrees, a division takes place and the formation 
 of another caste is the result. A man cannot marry a girl of a higher caste than 
 the one to which he belongs, for such protection is thrown around her that he can 
 have no communication with her, but by becoming an outcast he can marry a 
 •damsel belonging to a lower caste. 
 
 The visitor to India is immediately attracted by the brilliant marks on the 
 foreheads of the Hindus. At Calcutta I was informed that these are caste marks, 
 but this is a mistake. There are two great religious sects — the Shaivs, worshipers 
 ■of Mahader, and the Vishnavi, worshipers of the incarnations of Vishnu. The 
 horizontal mark indicates the former and the perpendicular mark the latter. 
 
 The corrupted Mohammedanism of India, in imitation of the Hindus, recog- 
 nizes four divisions — the Sheikh, the Mogul, the Bathan and the; Saiyad — but 
 these resemble family tribes more than they do the inflexible caste of the Hindu. 
 
CHAPTER XIT. 
 
 THE QUEEN OF THE EAST. 
 
 AIvCUTTA is the political capital and Bombay is the commer- 
 cial metropolis of India, and the two are located on opposite 
 sides of the country, the one looking toward the Bay of 
 Bengal, the other washed by the sea of Arabia. 
 
 Nowhere in Asia have I seen such a vanety of peoples 
 moving through the streets, dressed in every conceivable 
 oriental garb and representing so completely every degree of 
 Asiatic life as here in Bombay. Probably nowhere else in the 
 -world, not even in Alexandria, can be found a population so motley and conglom- 
 erate, and where such striking varieties of race, nationality and religion are seen 
 as on these wonderfully busy streets. 
 
 While visiting the bazaars, accompanied by an intelligent guide, I passed 
 Banians of Guzerat, Mahrattas from the Deccan, Mussulmans, Afghans, Persians, 
 Bedouin Arabs, Turks, Malays, Chinese, Japanese, Abyssinians, Indo-Portuguese, 
 Jews, Armenians, Europeans, and, of course, the omnipresent Yankee. 
 
 Religious Divisions. 
 
 But I desire to speak especially of certain sects that thrive in Bombay, and 
 -whose antagonistic opinions on social and religious questions have given rise to 
 many riots and much bloodshed. 
 
 The Jains, together with the Brahmins, I^ingaets and Bhattias, comprise the 
 castes which scrupulously abstain from eating meat. 
 
 They form about one-eighth of the population. In religious tenets they 
 resemble closely the Buddhists and they are a wealthy sect, accumulating much 
 money in the different trades. 
 
 The Brahminical, or orthodox Hindus, form three-fifths of the entire popu- 
 lation of Bombay, and they are separated into two divisions of worshipers, the 
 one class paying homage to Vishnu, the preserver, and the other bowing before 
 Shiva, the destroyer, the second and third persons of the Hindu trinity. 
 
 Tlie Banians. 
 
 The most important class among the Hindus, and the best known outside of 
 India, are the Banians. They have the commercial instinct remarkably developed 
 and largely control the foreign commerce of India with the countries bordering on 
 
 (251) 
 
252 
 
 AROUND THE WORIyD 
 
 the Persian gulf and the Indian ocean. To-day the trade of the whole east coast 
 of Africa and Southern and Eastern Arabia, I am told, is mainly managed by the 
 great Banian merchants of Bombay. 
 
 BOMBAY HARBOR. 
 
 Many of them are Jains, and they have the utmost veneration tor animal life. 
 You can see them carefully laying grains of sugar along the walls by the roadside 
 for the ants to eat or picking up worms and caterpillars and placing them where 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 253 
 
 they will not be trampled upon; and they have temples dedicated to animal life, 
 in which the lowest and most repulsive forms of vermin are religiously preserved. 
 In some of these miserable men are reported to receive a small recompense for 
 allowing insects to feed upon their bodies while they sleep. 
 
 The Mahrattas, who are loyal and enthusiastic Hindus, have no commercial 
 instinct and few of them are merchants of any note. They were originally 
 
 SI1,ENT TOWER, BOMBAY. 
 
 warriors, politicians and farmers, and to-day most of them hold inferior places 
 in the community. 
 
 The Mohammedans, forming one-fifth of the population, are divided into the 
 Soonees, who only accept the historical succession of Caliphs after Mohammed, 
 and the Sheeahs, who are followers of Ali, the fourth Caliph. The Turks and 
 Arabs are the chief Soonee nation, while the Persians are mainly Sheeahs. 
 
 The Parsees. 
 
 The Parsees, followers of Zoroaster, and commonly known as ' 'fire- worship- 
 ers," do not comprise a large proportion of the citizens of Bombay, but owing to 
 their energy, commercial genius, freedom, to a great extent, from caste prejudices 
 
254 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 and the readiness with which they have adopted European ideas and learned the 
 English language, have made themselves the most influential and wealthiest class 
 in the city. 
 
 More than eight centuries ago the Parsees, expelled from Persia, sought an 
 asylum in this part of the world. Their temples contain no images ; in some of 
 them burn still the sacred fire brought to these shores by their fathers, and 
 
 A HINDU SACRIIflCE. 
 
 the flame at the altar and the sun in the heavens are worshiped as symbolic of 
 God, who is declared to be the source of all illumination. 
 
 The hat worn by the Parsee is quite characteristic and marks him out in any 
 crowd. It is in the shape of a cow's hoof, and tradition has it that on their arrival 
 in India, as a token of subjection, they were compelled to adopt this style of head- 
 gear by the Hindus, who regard the cow as the most sacred of animals. 
 
 The manner in which the Parsees dispose of their dead is characteristic 
 of this people alone, and it impresses the visitor to Bombay as strangely 
 repulsive. I drove to Malabar Hill, an elevated piece of ground in the outskirts. 
 
(255) 
 
255 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 of the city, on the top of which are located the five noted 
 constituting the cemetery of the Parsees. 
 
 ' Towers of Silence, ' ' 
 
 The Towers of Silence. 
 
 These towers are approached through beautifully kept gardens, and the 
 
 scenery in the neighborhood is made as attractive as possible. 
 
 When a Parsee dies the body is brought up long flights of steps, which are 
 
 only touched by the feet of this race. Taken to a temple, where the sacred fire 
 
 has been burning un- 
 interruptedly for hun- 
 dreds of years and 
 tuneral services are 
 held, the corpse is car- 
 ried on a stretcher into 
 one of these towers 
 and placed, completely 
 exposed, upon a grat- 
 ing; and, after the 
 bearers and mourners 
 retire, hundreds ot 
 vultures, which are 
 always waiting on the 
 cornices of the towers 
 and on the tree-tops, 
 swoop down to their 
 human meal, and in 
 less than thirty min- 
 utes nothing is left but 
 the bones, which fall 
 where they are decomposed by time and the 
 
 DR. TOPPER IN CENTRAI, INDIA, 
 
 into a large open space below, 
 elements. 
 
 As fire, earth and water are all held by the Parsee to be sacred, a body must 
 -not be burned, for this would defile the fire; it must not be buried, for this would 
 defile the earth; it must not be cast into the river, for this would defile the water; 
 but it may be taken into the life of the birds without violating any tenet as to 
 defilement. 
 
 I was informed of one strange fancy and superstition of these Parsees. 
 A dog always accompanies the funeral procession, and when the white cloth 
 is lifted from the body, before it is left alone with the xultures, if the dog 
 approaches the corpse and notices it in any way, the dead is believed to be in a 
 
(257) 
 
258 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 state of happiness; on the contrary, if the pup slights the body the friends are left 
 without hope! 
 
 At a distance of a quarter of a mile from the ' ' Towers of Silence ' ' I noticed 
 these baldheaded vultures, larger than our buzzards, lining the fences and tower- 
 tops, eagerly looking out for a procession. As our party passed through the 
 gates, among the birds there was great excitement, but this joyful anticipation 
 was changed into solemn disappointment when, with vigorous step, we all passed 
 out again. 
 
 Pllth and Holiness. 
 
 The thought of this disposition of the dead was not so repulsive to me as the 
 manner in which a band of Hindu priests or fakirs are living not far from this 
 
 Parsee cemetery. It 
 is a peculiar trait of 
 the Hindu religion 
 that its filthiest men 
 are often reckoned 
 among its holiest. 
 I witnessed an illus- 
 tration of this. 
 
 Around the 
 6rumbling steps of an 
 ancient temple were 
 gathered a score of 
 nude fakirs on piles 
 of ashes who are sup- 
 posed to have passed 
 into a state of sinless- 
 ness. Their hair, 
 faces and bodies — un- 
 washed for years — 
 were covered with dust and dirt, and some of these deluded creatures had re- 
 mained seated in one position for so long a time that their limbs had become 
 enormously swollen and were rendered entirely useless. 
 
 I was told that one of the^e men took an oath twenty-five years ago that he 
 would not drop his arm from a lifted position during his life — and there he is. 
 The member is perfectly dead, and now it is impossible for him to break his oath 
 should he desire. Another fakir is pointed out who thirty-eight years ago pledged 
 the gods that he would neither sit down nor lie down as long as he lived, and 
 during all these weary years he has found physical rest only by leaning over the 
 
 DR. TUPPER AMONG BUDDHIST ASCETICS, BOMBAY. 
 
HINDU FAKIR WHOSE ARMS HAVE- BEEN UP FOR MANY YEARS AND CANNOT 
 
 TAKE THEM DOWN. (259) 
 
26o 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 rope of a swing or by supporting himself against a wall, 
 penances they expect to win happiness in the life to come. 
 
 By these frightful 
 
 Brilliant Scenes. 
 
 Along the Elphinstone Circle and the Esplanade, Bombay presents one of the 
 most brilliant street scenes in the world. Some of the improvements compare 
 favorably with those in Vienna, Berlin, Paris or London, and the beautiful 
 gardens, handsonie statuary and ornamental fountains add no little to the general 
 effect. Many of the broad roads are lined with oleanders, magnolias, laburnums, 
 
 jasmines, orange and 
 lemon trees, and the 
 white, scarlet and yel- 
 low honeysuckles and 
 other bright creepers 
 often completely cover 
 the walls and fences. 
 
 A delightful sail 
 of ten miles from the 
 city brought me to the 
 Island of Elephanta, 
 six miles in circum- 
 ference, where are 
 found the celebrated 
 rock caves, for so many 
 centuries the holy 
 temples of worship. 
 The entrance and 
 walls of the main Cave 
 of Elephanta are sup- 
 ported by elaborately carved pillars, hewn out of the native rock, and the sombre 
 chambers are decorated by numerous idols that give proof of the sensual supersti- 
 tion, as well as the unique art of these religionists of ages gone, whose faithful 
 successors are here to-day. 
 
 An Asylum for Animals. 
 
 The members of the Society for the Prevention of Crueltj' to Animals would 
 enjoy a visit to the Asylum for Aged and Decrepit Animals at Bombay, where 
 birds and beasts are as carefully nursed as are human beings in well-appointed 
 hospitals. The establishment was founded by a wealthy native, and here bullocks, 
 cows, horses, dogs, cats and birds, otherwise homeless, find excellent care, food 
 and shelter. 
 
 DR. TUPPER AT JEYPORE, INDIA. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 261 
 
 These animals are never killed, and it matters not how aged or badly injured 
 they are, an experienced doctor and nurse give them every attention until nature 
 ends their lives. The kind consideration shown all animals through the East, 
 especially in India, is marked, indeed, and this fact accounts for the tameness of 
 these creatures on the 
 streets of all the large 
 cities. In a hotel at 
 Allahabad I made my 
 toilet in the morning 
 while two bright-plu- 
 maged birds were hop- 
 ping on my floor, and 
 on several occasions I 
 have dined while rooks 
 were perched in the 
 open windows of the 
 dining-room, looking 
 at me with their heads 
 turned to one side, as 
 if to say, ' ' Hurry up, 
 there; my turn next!" 
 If I was an American 
 cat, rat or jaybird and 
 possessed my present 
 knowledge of the world, 
 I would hie to the land 
 of the Hindu and 
 defend his religion with 
 all my teeth and claws. 
 
 Famine in India. 
 
 Human life has 
 received far less atten- 
 tion in India than brute 
 life. The horrors of fam - 
 ine have overshadowed 
 the land, and if it were 
 
 BUDDHIST PKIESTKSS. 
 
 not for the information given to the world by Americans there would be great 
 ignorance on the subject, and if it were not for the aid rendered by Americans the 
 list of those who have died of starvation would be much longer. As in the 
 
262 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 famine oi 1877-78 millions of these miserable beings starve to death without the 
 knowledge of the government. 
 
 Twenty years ago L,ord I^ytton, then viceroy, declared in a public address ttiat 
 only three or four persons in all India had died for lack of food, while, it was 
 proved afterward, that in the district where he spoke sixty thousand persons were 
 starving at the very time of his optimistic deliverance. That famine was not so 
 widespread as the one that has lately afflicted this unfortunate people. It 
 raged eighteen months; two-thirds of the entire country was affected by the terrible 
 scourge, and the number of victims, according to Renter's agent in India, exceed 
 eight million! Boarding a train at Bombay, within a few hours' ride beyond the 
 Ghats, or mountain-range, north of the metropolis, you enter upon a parched 
 desert of yellow-brown soil which is the home of millions of human souls, and 
 which extends for thousands of square miles, its hard and grassless surface relieved 
 now and then by the mango tree and collection of mud huts, with thatched roofs, 
 about which are huddled groups of emaciated human beings. A few miles away 
 from the railroad you are attracted here and there by the gruesome sight of 
 skeletons of men, women and children, glistening and bleaching in the sun, and 
 no one knows and no one cares who thej' were. No, this cannot be true; for far 
 across the Pacific have come to famine-stricken India tokens of a universal love and 
 sympathy. In the pulpit, on the platform, and through the press earnest appeals 
 have been made throughout America for India's starving millions ; and no efforts 
 in this line have been more prompt, more eloquent and more successful than those 
 that have been made through the columns of the Christian Herald. Dr. Klopsch, 
 the proprietor of this journal, with his characteristic energy and foresight, early 
 took in the dreadful situation, and by means of his widely-circulated paper he has 
 raised in corn and money nearly $300,000, which has been distributed by over 
 sixty missionaries in the famine district. Free shipment of corn was allowed by 
 Congressional action ; the " City of Everett," loaded with provisions, sailed from 
 the Pacific coast, and through the Christian Herald Commissioner and the Inter- 
 denominational Relief Committee (of which Bishop Thoburn was chairman) the 
 distribution of money and provisions was ably managed. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 FAREWELL TO INDIA, QREETINQ TO EGYPT, 
 
 mrn^ 
 
 "y^ ^gS KTjd OR a number of days our steamer plowed through the waters of 
 
 ^^^AjH the Arabian and Red seas from Bombay to Suez, and the 
 
 - j=^ ^i| monotony of the long trip was relieved quite delightfully by 
 
 ^S^J|H the companionship of agreeable Americans, Englishmen and 
 
 Qjj^l^^'H Frenchmen, by the entertaining program arranged through the 
 
 genius of the ' ' amusement committee' ' day by day, by the 
 
 appearance now and then of the great fish and strange birds 
 
 of these seas and by our short stay at Aden, where I enjoyed a ten-mile drive 
 
 through two Arabian villages and saw the Arab for the first time on his native 
 
 heath, 
 
 I am now looking upon the narrow waters of the Suez Canal, and, although the 
 cutting of this canal and the repeated struggles and disappointments of the noted 
 M. de Lesseps are old stories, I shall venture to give some facts that are of fresh 
 interest to me and may be also to my readers. It is popularly supposed that the 
 union of the Red and the Mediterranean seas were not effected Until the famous 
 French engineer came upon the scene, but this is a mistake. 
 
 Planned by the Pharaohs. 
 
 The Isthmus of Suez, a neck of land which joins Asia to Africa, is a little 
 over ninety miles wide, and modern investigations have proved that as far back as 
 Rameses II., one of the oppressors of the Israelites, a canal was cut partly through 
 the isthmus. This work was continued by Nekan (B. C. 6io), Darius and 
 Ptolemy Philadelphus, and, still later, the completed canal joined the two seas. 
 
 During the middle ages several unsuccessful attempts were made to cut a new 
 canal, but no serious effort was made until the year 1798, when Napoleon 
 Bonaparte directed M. Lepere to survey the route across the neck of land, but after 
 great waste of time a,nd money the report was sent to the French Emperor that, 
 as the difference between the levels of the Red Sea and the Mediterranean was 
 thirty-three feet, it would be impossible to build a canal that would prove to be 
 of permanent benefit. 
 
 The New Canal. 
 
 Not until the year 1846 was it found that the level of the two seas is 
 practically the same, and in the year 1854 M. de Lesseps laid his plans for a canal 
 before Said Pasha; two years afterward they were sanctioned, and two years later 
 
264 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 the work began, The canal leads into several lakes. The filling of the Bitter 
 lyakes with sea-water from the Mediterranean was begun on the eighteenth of 
 March, 1869, and the whole canal was opened for traffic on November 16 of the 
 same year. An enthusiastic engineer, in whose company I spent some time, gave 
 me some interesting details on the subject of the construction of this important 
 commercial highway. 
 
 The channel which leads into the canal at the Suez end is three hundred yards 
 across in the widest part, the average width of the dredged canal is about ninety 
 feet, and the average depth is about twenty-eight feet. 
 
 On a mound nearly half-way between Suez and Shaluf are granite blocks 
 
 bearing traces of cuneiform 
 and hieroglyphic inscriptions 
 recording the name of Darius, 
 and these are evidently the 
 remains of one of a series of 
 buildings erected along the 
 line of the old canal, which 
 was restored and probably 
 completed by Darius. 
 
 Records of Persian Work. 
 
 While digging the canal 
 M. de Lesseps and his work- 
 men found the ruins of sev- 
 eral buildings which have 
 thrown light upon the subject of ancient architecture, and some of the granite 
 slabs excavated by him and his associates, inscribed with the names of Darius 
 and other distinguished characters of history, are held as precious relics. 
 
 The track of the canal through the Bitter Lakes is marked by a double row of 
 buoys. The distance between each buoy is about three hundred and thirty yards, 
 and the space between the two rows is thirty feet. After passing out of the lake 
 channel into the canal proper you enter what is known as the plain of El-Gisr, 
 or the " bridge," which is fifty-five feet above the level of the sea, and through 
 this a channel eighty feet deep had to be cut. 
 
 A few miles further a more remarkable formation is seen. It is a height 
 between the lakes of Bahah and Menzaleh, and as it forms a natural bridge it is 
 supposed that over this passed the invading armies that entered Egypt, which 
 supposition gave rise to the name, " The Bridge of Nations." 
 
 The town at the Mediterranean entrance is called Port Said, in honor of Said 
 Pasha. Its harbor and two breakwaters are wonderful pieces of workmanship. 
 
 DR. TOPPER AKD FRIEND,? .SAII.TNG UP THE RED SEA. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 265 
 
 The breakwater on the east is over a mile, and the one on the west is still longer, 
 and the latter is lengthened yearly to protect the harbor from the mud-carrying 
 current which always flows from the west and would block up the canal but for 
 the breakwater. 
 
 The Great French Engineer. 
 
 We are convinced that the completion of the canal is due, perhaps, less to 
 originality of conception than to the intensity of conviction and invincible 
 perseverance of the great engineer, whose faith in his enterprise seemed to remove 
 mountains, and whose magnetic personality appealed successfully at last to those 
 who were at first his most persistent antagonists. The British government was 
 resolutely hostile to the scheme; the Ottoman Porte, the real suzerain of Egypt, 
 partly influenced by the attitude of England, and partly by its dislike to anything 
 tending to possible complication within the bounds of its own dominions, did 
 everything in its power to discourage the affair; the leading engineers in Europe 
 declared against the practicability of the enterprise, and their adverse verdict did 
 much toward sealing the coffers of European capitalists, and, worst of all, as so 
 often is the case in important matters with us all, those to whom he confided, and 
 upon whom he absolutely depended, failed him at the critical moment. 
 
 But M. de Lesseps seemed never daunted by the political and financial 
 difficulties which lay in his path, and with that power of persuasion that in his 
 latter years led him to make some fatal mistakes, he convinced the Viceroy of 
 Egypt that his reign would be made glorious b}'^ granting the powers for the 
 construction of the canal; he persuaded the*-French peqple to embark their savings 
 in a foreign and romantic undertaking; he inspired with his hopeful enthusiasm 
 his engineers, contractors and every member of his staff, and, indeed, his magnetic 
 influence extended from the throne to the trowel; from the Arab sheiks to the 
 humblest laborer. 
 
 I am told that up to the moment the canal was opened it was thought by 
 some who posed as experts that the largest steamers would be unable to navigate 
 its waters, and at best it would only become a channel through which barges 
 might be towed with goods in competition with the Egyptian Railway. 
 
 New Era in Commerce. 
 
 The opening of the canal marked a new era in the commercial life of Europe. 
 Heretofore the long and expensive route by the way of the Cape of Good Hope 
 was taken by steamers from London to the ports in India, China and Japan, but 
 now scores of days and thousands of miles can be saved by this narrow highway 
 of less than a hundred miles in length. The distance from London to Bombay 
 via the Cape of Good Hope is 10,719 miles, the distance from London to Bombay 
 via the Suez Canal is only 6274. 
 
266 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 At the opening of the canal, and for several years subsequently, the dues 
 were levied at the rate of ten francs ($2.00) on the registered or net tonnage of 
 steamers, but in 1872 the company determined to levy the same toll, not on the 
 net, but on the gross tonnage of all vessels. But as ships had been built and 
 capital invested largely on the strength of the canal charges levied on the princi- 
 ple of ten francs on net tonnage, there arose serious complaints. Strong appeals 
 were made to the English government to protect British interests; the Message- 
 
 THE PORT OK ISMAHIA, ON THE SUEZ CANAI,. 
 
 ries Maritimes of France and other foreign companies protested against the change; 
 an international commission was appointed by the Ottoman Porte to determine 
 the basis on which dues should be levied, and, after some delay, a compromise 
 was effected, which seemed to satisfy the interested parties. 
 
 Cost of the Canal. 
 
 The amount of ;^i6, 000,000 is often quoted as the entire cost of the construc- 
 tion of the canal, but this is not correct. To this enormous sum must be added 
 the amount of the indemnity paid by the Egyptian government, according to the 
 
WITH EYES wide; OPEN. 267 
 
 award of the Emperor of France in 1864, for the retrocession of territory and 
 other privileges, and, as this indemnity amounted to nearly ^4,000,000, the total 
 for constructing the canal aggregated ;^20, 000,000, or about $100,000,000. 
 
 On account of the narrowness of the canal, every five miles a siding is pro- 
 vided to enable ships to be moored out of the main channel, so that other vessels 
 may pass, and other expensive improvements have been made in recent years. 
 But, apart from these practical considerations, the Suez Canal is of thrilling 
 interest. 
 
 To open the way for the world's commerce, the pickaxe and shovel of mod- 
 ern enterprise have cut through a region enriched by the memory of the greatest 
 events of history. On either side of the canal stretches the plain where Abraham, 
 four thousand years ago, wandered from far-away Ur, of the Chaldees; not far 
 from this spot are the ruins of ancient Zoan, where Moses performed his miracles; 
 nearby is where the host of Pharaoh perished through the sudden rising of a 
 southwest gale, and thus this narrow ribbon of water links together the great past 
 and the greater present, pointing, let us hope, to a still greater future. 
 
 Three Egypts. 
 
 Three Egypts attract the attention and elicit the interest of the traveler — the 
 Egypt of the ancients, the Egypt of the "Arabian Nights," and the Egypt of 
 modern enterprise. 
 
 The first is seen in excavated cities, in pyramids, temples and tombs; the 
 second is witnessed in the strange scenes of the narrow streets of portions of 
 Cairo and in the queer towns of the country districts, and the last displays itself 
 along the Suez Canal and in the commercial din of modernized Alexandria. 
 You recall the words of the Jewish physician in the story of ' ' The Hump- 
 back: " " He who has not seen Cairo has not seen the world. Its soil is gold, its 
 Nile is a wonder, its women are like the black-eyed virgins of Paradise." While 
 we may differ from the opinion thus expressed, we must agree that as we visit the 
 labyrinth of narrow lanes which intersect the mediaeval city, sights appear in this 
 Mohammedan capital that cannot be duplicated in all the world. 
 
 In Narrow Streets. 
 
 Passing down the winding alleys, where a tiny patch of sky marks the nar- 
 row space between the lattice windows of the over-hanging upper stories, crowded 
 and jostled by a swarming mass of human beings, camels, asses and donkeys, we 
 can readily imagine ourselves in the gateway of Ali of Cairo. We can nearly 
 hear the Three Kalenderis entertaining the portress and her fair sisters with the 
 history of their lives, and if we come this way by night, we would not be much 
 
(26S) 
 
 STREET IN MODERN CAIRO. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 269 
 
 surprised to see the good Harun-al-Rashid himself, coming stealthily on his mid- 
 night rambles, with Jaafer at his heels and black Mesrur clearing the way. The 
 histories of the Thousand and One Nights are enacted every day upon thesfe 
 streets, and the tru,th of to-day is stranger than the fiction of yesterday. 
 
 Bazaars and Public Buildings. 
 
 I have just returned from a five-mile walk up the street called " Muski " and 
 through the native bazaars. Here is the- Norman-looking eleventh century gate 
 of the old Fatimi city; yonder is the Mosque of El-Hakim, the mad founder of 
 the Druse superstition; there is the exquisite tomb of Kalaun. Now the Azhar 
 University is passed, where 2000 students from all parts of Asia and Africa, even 
 from distant Sierra lycone, are taught gratuitously by professors learned in the 
 erudition of the Egyptians. Here the massive gate Zawila is passed, where the 
 people still offer mysterious trophies of hair and teeth to the famous saint who is 
 believed to hide behind the door, and where, in 15 17, the Turkish conqueror ofi 
 Egypt, Selim the Grim, hung the last of the Mamluke Sultans by his neck untij 
 he breathed his last; and just beyond is the Sultan Hasan's mosque, the largest 
 in Cairo, with its splendid arches and spire-like minarets. > 
 
 Picturesque Costumes. , 
 
 In picturesqueness of costume the peoples you meet on the Esbekyeh or Broad-i 
 way of Cairo lead the world. Instead of the abominable trousers and buttoned 
 coats of the Europeans you are greeted by the graceful turban and flowing robes 
 that remind you of the classic antique. 
 
 Before the walk is over you have passed and repassed representatives of nearly 
 every nation under the skies, and your mind is confused with images of green- 
 turbaned sherifs, or descendants of the Prophet Mohammed, blue-turbaned Copts, 
 red-fezzed, frock-coated officials, extremely naked children, sedate professors with 
 snowy coils of muslin round their shorn skulls, tradesmen in striped kaftans, 
 squatting cross-legged in their little boxes of shops, solemnly puffing at their 
 chibuks or narghilas, and the endless number of donkeys, carrying upon their tiny 
 backs and pipe-stem legs enormous loads, big, lazy men, or a balloon of black 
 silk, which nearly extinguishes the little trotting creature, and which, from the 
 pair of lustrous black eyes shining above a white face veil, you speculate to be a 
 Turkish lady. 
 
 Now and then a " clear-the-way " cry is heard, and here comes dashing along 
 a handsome equipage, preceded by runners gorgeously dressed and carrying long 
 white wands in their l^aqds. 
 
(27o) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 271 
 
 Among the Shops. 
 
 But the candle and rose bazaars have greater attractions for us. In these 
 famous alleys the old Turk, with flowing caftan and pure white turban, from his 
 dark dingy shop dispenses delicious odors, mysterious pastes and essences, with 
 
 I,OWISR CI,ASS WOMAN, CAIRO. 
 
 kohl for the eyes and henna for the fingers; the roaming peddlers patronizingly 
 offer you sandal-wood fans, beads, trinkets, gaudy Syrian crapes, Egyptian sweet- 
 
272 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 meats, fruit in baskets balanced on their heads, colored slippers of kid and satin, 
 elaborately wrought in gold, silver and gilt, turned up at the toes, and wonder- 
 
 A MORNING RIDE. 
 
 ful pipes of every description, with graceful stems of carved amber. From this 
 scene we pass into another quite different. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 273 
 
 Saracenic Architecture. 
 
 Before you loom up the stately line of mosques, whicli present the most 
 beautiful and continuous series of Saracenic monuments in the world. They show 
 
 DANCE GIRL, CAIRO. 
 
 US the chaste and restrained stage of Art between the over-elaboration of the 
 Alhambra and the heaviness of the Mohammedan architecture of India. 
 18 
 
274 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The study of the cloistered mosques requires several days at least. Separated 
 not far apart, you find the ruined but beautiful Ibn-Tulun (ninth century), the 
 spacious Azhar and- El-Hakira (tenth century), and among transept or cruciform 
 mosques Kalaun (thirteenth century), Sultan Hasan and Kait Bey (fourteenth 
 century) , which are found eastward out of the city among that wilderness of tawney 
 domes and minarets, miscalled the "Tombs of the Khalifs." In every mosque 
 here is an inlaid, carved or painted niche in the wall, indicating the kibla or 
 direction of Mecca. Round this niche centres the best decorations — mosaics of 
 marble and porphyry of ivory and mother-of-pearl, wood and plaster carving, 
 stained glass set in cunningly, shaded borders and Kufic inscriptions, and near by 
 is the pulpit, frequently a splendid piece of carved and inlaid paneling, arranged 
 in complicated geometrical patterns, and in front stands the lectern or platform, 
 where the Koran is recited. 
 
 Mohammedan Homes and Women. 
 
 While many of the -columns of the cloisters are Roman in style, the domes 
 and minarets were first used in Egypt before they were known in Europe. A 
 glimpse of the interior of a good Mohammedan residence reveals the skillful use of 
 paneling and tiles, the rich effects of facets of stained glass, and the mazy inter- 
 twinings of the latticed meshrebuja, but very few visitors are allowed to go beyond 
 the inner court, round which the house is always built, where the windows are 
 thickly webbed with carved and turned lattice-work, through which, now and then, 
 you can detect female eyes, fringed with kohl, peering at the intruder. How 
 wretched must be these Mohammedan women ! 
 
 They have no mental resort; education is unknown among them; thejgiare 
 entirely shut out from all society; it is a disgrace for them to show their faces; 
 they know no such thing as conjugal love, and, perhaps, the worst cross of all to 
 them, they can only see what is going on in the outside Vi^orld through the medium 
 of stolen glances ! 
 
 At the Citadel. 
 
 We now stand on the great parapet of the magnificent Citadel of Cairo, where 
 Saladin stood when he had built the fortress. The sweep of vision takes in all of the 
 " Mother of the World ;" miles away can be seen the mighty pyramids, standing 
 against the deep-blue sky, and far in the distance you can trace the historic Nile 
 until it is lost in the sands o the Arabian Desert. Just below you is the narrow 
 passage where Mohammed Ali massacred the Mamlukes; yonder is the gate 
 through which a handful of dragoons rode on September 14, 1882, in the face of 
 eight thousand of Arabi's followers, and spread beneath us is a labyrinth of 
 crumbling flat-roofed houses and green shady courts, overtopped by hundreds of 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 275 
 
 chiseled domes and tapering minarets, whence the evening call to prayer may now 
 be heard resounding from the muezzin's throat: " Allahu Akbar.'^ There is no 
 
 A. DERVISH. 
 
 god but God. Mohammed is the Apostle of God. Come to prayer. Come to 
 salvation. Allahu Akbar Lailaha illa-llah. 
 
276 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 With the Dervishes. 
 
 On Friday, at i o'clock, a sacred day and hour, we beheld the ridiculous 
 performances of the whirling and howling dervishes. Mingled feelings of pity, 
 amusement and disgust possess one as these senseless antics are watched. Upon a 
 raised platform a ring is made of mats upon which thirty or forty of these long- 
 haired, half-nude howlers sit, with wagging heads, until the monotonous notes of a 
 fife and a sort of Chinese tom-tom break the silence, and now led by the patriarch 
 
 DANCe OF The dervishes. 
 
 in the centre, both lungs and each particular muscle of every man are put into 
 vigorous exercise. 
 
 The first motion is that of throwing the head and upper portion of the body, 
 forward and bringing it back with a sudden jerk, which would ordinarily break a 
 man's neck, but which seems to make these creatures more lively, and, encouraged 
 by the success of this first feat, they enter upon a series of vocal and gymnastic 
 exhibitions that are only terminated when their brains seem to be addled and 
 physically they are completely exhausted. But before these afflictions befell me I 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 277 
 
 quietly departed. A short and pleasant excursion was made to the Island of 
 Roda, where we were shown the identical spot (!) where Moses was rescued by the 
 King's daughter, and the nilometer, which marks the rise and fall of the Nile, but 
 a donkey ride of eight miles to the famous ostrich farm afforded greater pleasure. 
 Fourteen hundred and fifty of these immense African fowls are kept in walled 
 yards, and they can be seen at every age, from tlie awkward little creature that 
 has just broken the immense egg to the giant black- plumaged male ostrich 
 twenty -five years of age. 
 
 TEMPLE AT ABVD03. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 THE HISTORIC NILE AND THE EXCAVATOR'S PICKAXE. 
 
 >OR weeks I have been looking upon walls that are books. From 
 their elaborate picture-writings we learn the daily life, the religion 
 and the superstitions of the people who were buried from four to 
 five thousand years ago. 
 
 It is my purpose, in this chapter, to give a partial account of 
 my brief investigations of these excavated cities and temples of 
 Egypt that are throwing so much light just now upon the past records of this 
 wonderland of history. 
 
 About five miles northeast of Cairo is a little village built upon part of the 
 site of the ancient town of Heliopolis, called " On " in Genesis, the " House of 
 the Sun " in Jeremiah, and here may be seen the sycamore tree, usually called 
 the "Virgin's Tree," under which, tradition says, the Virgin Mary sat and 
 rested with the young child during her flight to Egypt. Near by stands an 
 obelisk, sixty-five feet high, set up by Userten I., about B. C. 2433. 
 
 Heliopolis. 
 
 This ancient city, whose ruins cover an area of three miles square, played an 
 important part in history. The greatest and oldest Egyptian college for the 
 education of the priesthood and the laity stood here. During the twentieth 
 dynasty the Temple of Heliopolis, with its staff of thousands, was one of the 
 wealthiest in all Egypt. It was here that Joseph married the daughter of Potiphar, 
 a priest of On (or Heliopolis), near the Goshen of the Bible. At this place the 
 Mnevis bull was worshiped, and here it was that the Phcenix, or palm bird, 
 brought its ashes, after having raised itself to life at the end of each period of five 
 hundred years, and it was round about Heliopolis that Alexander the Great 
 camped on his way from Pelusium to Memphis. 
 
 Memphis, 
 
 The ruins of Memphis and the antiquities of Sakkarah are even of greater 
 interest. On the ground lying for miles about these two villages once stood the 
 .glorious city of Memphis, which Herodotus tells us, was built by Menes, the first 
 ruler of Egypt. 
 
 (278) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN 
 
 279 
 
 The original city was located upon a fertile and well-wooded tract of land. 
 Diodorus speaks of its green meadows, intersected with canals, and of their pave- 
 ment of lotus flowers. Pliny talks of trees there of such girth that three men 
 with exteflded arms could not span them, and Martial praises the roses and wine 
 brought from thence to Rome. 
 
 About 4000 B. C. the city reached a height of splendor which was probably 
 never excelled. When Rameses II. returned from his wars in the East, he set up 
 
 WATER-WHEEI< ON THE NILE. 
 
 a statue of himself, which can now be seen. Cambyses, the Persian, conquered 
 the city and established his garrison there, and until the founding of Alexandria, 
 its power and glory were unexcelled. 
 
 The colossal statue of Rameses II. was discovered in 1820. The name of 
 Rameses is inscribed on the belt of the statue. On the end of the roll which the 
 
2.8o AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 King carries in his hand are the words, " Rameses, Beloved of Amen," and by 
 the side of the King are figures of his daughter and son. 
 
 Antiquities of Sakkarah. 
 
 The tract of land at Sakkarah, near the present Memphis, which formed the 
 great burial ground of the ancient Egyptians at all periods, is about one and a 
 half miles long and one mile wide, and the most important antiquities to be found 
 there are the ' ' Step Pyramid, ' ' oblong in shape, with an extreme length of 396 
 feet and a height of 197 feet, supposed to be older than the great pyramids of 
 Gizeh; the pyramids of the kings of the fifth and sixth dynasties, on which have 
 been found some valuable inscriptions, and from which have been taken fragments 
 of the royal mummies. The tomb of Phi, which represents this confidant of the 
 king superintending all the various operations connected with the management of 
 of his large agricultural estates, with illustrations of hunting and fishing expe- 
 ditions, and the Apis mausoleum, which contained the vaults where all the Apis 
 bulls that lived in Memphis were buried. 
 
 According to Herodotus, ' ' Apis is the calf of a cow incapable of conceiving 
 another ofispring, and the Egyptians say that lightning descends upon the cow 
 from hej^ven, and that from thence it brings forth Apis. The calf is black, has a 
 square spot of white on the forehead; on the back the imprint of an eagle; in the 
 tail double hairs, and on the tongue a beetle." 
 
 Above each tomb of an Apis a chapel was built, and on the tombs writings 
 have been found that give accurate chronological data for the history of Egypt. 
 
 On the Banks of the Nile. 
 
 But we must turn toward the banks of the historic Nile, where the most 
 important and interesting antiquities have been found. On the east bank of the 
 river, 150 miles south of Cairo, is the lonely Convent of the Virgin on the Bird 
 Mountain (Gebelet-Tayr), where the monks swing themselves down the steep 
 Tock which overhangs the water, priding themselves, despite the discomforts of 
 their lives, on the fact that they belong to the sleepy old Coptic Church, which 
 has remained crusted in its simplicity for 1 500 years, since the council of Chalcedon J 
 
 Sailing down, or rather up the Nile, to which nature has given her own 
 unspeakable loveliness and art and history have added their own inspiring 
 associations, we pause only a short while to see the tombs where the mummied 
 "serpent of the Nile" was reverently laid to rest by the crocodile worshipers, 
 and we take only a lingering glance at Asyut, the capital of tipper Egypt, nestled 
 in the glowing Libyan hills, for we are bound for the great temples of Egypt and 
 we are not tempted to tarry. 
 

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 (281) 
 
282 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 We first reach beautiful Abydos — embraced by hills, veiled in palm groves, 
 surrounded by waving fields of ripening grain — with its noble ruins carved all 
 over with delicate reliefs, wherein King Seti stands forth, offering to Osiris, and 
 where the Tables of Kings is set forth, with all their names, to the joy of modem 
 scholars. 
 
 Abydos and the nemnonium. 
 
 Abydos, Thebes and Heliopolis represented the homes of religious thought 
 and learning in Egypt, and Abydos, especially, was the centre of the great Osiris, 
 the type of the conflict between good and evil, life and death, resurrection and 
 immortality to every pious Egyptian of old. This sacred city is ifientioned by 
 Plutarch, Athenaeus, Ptolemy and Pliny, and Straba tells us that at one time it 
 was second only to Thebes. There are two magnificent monuments here. 
 
 The Temple of Seti, or the Memnonium, is built of fine white calcareous 
 stone, the pillars are inscribed with religious scenes and figures of the king and 
 the god Osiris. On the south wall is an inscription in which Rameses II., relates 
 all that he has done for the honor of his father's memory, how he erected statues 
 of him at Thebes and Memphis. The second hall is supported by thirty-six 
 columns, elaborately sculptured, arranged in three rows. 
 
 The scenes on several of the walls set forth, with remarkable artistic power, 
 royal ceremonies, and in one of the corridors is the famous tablet of Abydos, 
 which gives the names of seventy-six kings of Egypt, beginning with Menes and 
 ending with Seti I. 
 
 The Temple of Osiris. 
 
 A little to the north of the building of which we have spoken is the Temple 
 of Rameses II., dedicated by this king to the god Osiris, and it was thought by 
 many distinguished scholars to be the famous shrine which all Egypt adored, but 
 the excavations of M. Mariette proved that it was not. 
 
 The fragment of a tablet containing the names of Egyptian kings, now in the 
 British Museum, came from this temple, and the inscriptions and ornamentations 
 on the walls are of value. 
 
 Our next stopping place is over five hundred miles up the Nile, where the 
 wonderfully preserved Temple of Denderah calls forth exclamations of pleasure. 
 Although it is thought not to be older than the later Ptolemies, it is the most 
 majestic monument that has so far been visited by us. 
 
 The names of several of the Roman emperors appear on various parts of the 
 temple ; the well-known portraits of Cleopatra and Caesarion, her son, are on the 
 end wall of the exterior; a dromos of aboiit two hundred and fifty feet leads into 
 a portico, supported by twenty-four, Hathor-headed columns. Several chambers 
 show beautiful decorations, and on the highest ceiling is the famous " Zodiac," 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 283 
 
 which was thought to have been made in ancient Egypt, but which is disproved 
 by the inscription A. D. 35, written in the twenty-first year of Tiberius. 
 
 All through this marvelous structure we meet a happy blending of Egyptian 
 seriousness with Grecian grace, which lends enchantment to every part of it. 
 We now turn our faces again up the river, and with thrilling anticipations of the 
 
 INTERIOR OF TEMPLE OE ABYDOS. 
 
 fulfillment of many dreams, we approach the site of ancient Thebes, ' ' the city of 
 a hundred gates " of Homer's verse. 
 
 Wondrous Thebes. 
 
 Beautiful for situation was the ancient city of Thebes. 
 
 The mountains on the east and west side of the river sweep away from this 
 historic spot and leave a broad plain on each bank of several square miles in 
 
284. 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 extent. In this wide space, where modern Paris could stand, was located the 
 renowned city which Homer sings about in his ninth Iliad, and which Diodorus, 
 who visited it about B. C. 57, tells us was not only the most beautiful and state- 
 liest city of Egypt, but could not be excelled in all the world. 
 
 Within her hundred gates were kept 20,000 chariots of war. The succeeding 
 kings from time to time adorned this pride of their kingdom with monuments of 
 gold, silver, ivory, alabaster and granite. Multitudes of colossi and obelisks 
 were reared in her streets. Wonderful sepulchres of the ancient kings, forty- 
 
 OUR NILE BOAT. 
 
 seven in number, excelling in grandeur, according to Strabo (B. C. 24), every- 
 thing of the kind in the world, were built in her neighborhood; and as little by 
 little the local god, Amen-Ra, became the great god of all Egypt, his dwelling- 
 place, Thebes, gained in importance and splendor, reaching its highest point of 
 glory during the rule of the eighteenth and nineteenth dynasties. 
 
 Up and Down the Nile. 
 The two great divisions of Egypt into Upper and Lower, made from time 
 immemorial, and the expressions of " up " and "down " the Nile are somewhat 
 puzzling to the tourist when he first travels through this land of historic interest. 
 
286 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 Toward the Mediterranean Sea is known as I^ower Egypt, way out toward 
 Nubia is Upper Egypt, and around Cairo and Alexandria we are down the Nile, 
 while way down here at Assouan, between seven and eight hundred miles south 
 of the sea, we are far up the Nile. Everything is decided by the course of the 
 great river, thdriver and country toward its mouth is " down;" toward its source 
 it is "up." 
 
 Although vast preparations are being made by the British and Egyptian 
 military powers for the war in the Soudan, and nearly all the boats on the Nile 
 
 
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 THE NILE'S DELTA. 
 
 are being chartered by the government for the transportation of troops, after 
 negotiating for some days, a party of five Americans (including the writer) and one 
 Scotchman was formed, and securing a steam launch, manned by an Egyptian 
 engineer and fireman, a I/ibyan pilot, a Greek cook and steward, a Nubian waiter 
 and a Soudanese dragoman, we steamed up the river, passing numbers of boats 
 crowded with bright uniformed and fierce-looking militia, and after nearly two- 
 weeis of life on the water of a stream that has supported by its annual overflow 
 countless millions during the last sixty centuries, we are at the extreme southeriL 
 
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288 ' AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 boundar3^ of Egypt, surrounded by the evidences of a civilization that existed 
 four thousand years before the commencement of the Christian era. 
 
 Centre of Ancient Culture. 
 
 It must not be thought that the real Egypt is the vast country outlined on 
 our maps, reaching to the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, and embracing equatorial 
 regions. It is and was, even far back in the days of the Pharaohs and Ptolomies, 
 the valley of the Nile, from the first cataract, where I am now writing, to the 
 Mediterranean Sea, shut in by the Libyan and Arabian deserts. 
 
 In this district, less than a thousand miles in length, were centred much of 
 the art, science and philosophy of the ancient world, and here were reared those 
 time-defying monuments which after a burial of thousands of years are being 
 resurrected by modern enterprise, and to-day are the wonder of an age that until 
 lately supposed that these ancients were uncivilized barbarians who could add 
 nothing to our boasted omniscience. 
 
 The Orientals compare the long, narrow valley of the Nile and its broad, 
 triangular-shaped embouchure or delta to a long-stemmed fan, and the city of 
 Cairo is called the "brightest gem in the handle of the green Egyptian fan." 
 Just before it reaches the sea the river parts into several streams, and, during flood 
 time, it pours 700,000,000 cubic metres of water daily into the Mediterranean 
 through its different mouths. 
 
 Once clear of the belt of salt lagoons that fringes the sand hills behind 
 Alexandria, the Delta spreads before us the richest soil of Egypt. The alluvial 
 deposit washed down annually by the flooded Nile from its gigantic reservoirs in 
 the Abyssinian mountains nourishes magnificent crops, and the spreading arms of, 
 the river, the intersecting network of canals and multitudes of sakiyas or water- 
 wheels regulate the distribution of the water to perfection. 
 
 Wheat, maize, barley, rice, millet, beans, cotton and indigo are grown here in 
 luxuriance, and a succession of three crops in the year is not unusual with skillful 
 farmers. 
 
 The mud villages, with their little white mosque and minaret, their pigeon 
 towers and the sparse cluster of palms or tamarisks by the well, where women, 
 and girls are filling the great earthen pitchers, which they afterward balance with 
 a stately grace upon their heads, make a characteristic picture, but in the Delta 
 there is nothing, perhaps, that need detain the traveler save the wonderful exca- 
 vations and discoveries of the ' ' Egypt Exploration Fund ' ' at the Bible cities of 
 Pithom and Zoan (Tanis) in the land of Goshen and the famous Greek port of 
 Naucratis. 
 
 At Pithom you may see the ancient sun-dried bricks which Pharaoh's task- 
 masters set the children of Israel to make without straw. In this part of the 
 
f28q1 
 
290 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 country the only town worth a visit is Tanta during the great periodical festivals 
 of the Saint El-Bedawi, when revels take place which are the modern representa- 
 tives of the Bubastian orgies of which Herodotus writes. 
 
 Scenes of the Voyage. 
 
 A Nile voyage, with a small, congenial party, in a well-appointed and well- 
 furnished boat, under our own control, is one of the most perfect forms of human 
 
 THK VOCAI< MEMNON. 
 
 enjoyment. The charm is something quite peculiar. In all the world, perhaps, 
 no river shows such varying moods as the Nile, despite its smoothness; and the 
 exquisite tints of the scenery, presenting a vivid contrast between the brown, 
 Nile-mud villages, fringed with palm groves and crowned with white minarets, 
 and the waving fields of pale-green corn or sweet-scented bean and purple lupin 
 blossom, are indescribable. 
 
« 
 
 3 
 < 
 
 (291) 
 
292 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 During the day the book that 3'ou bought in Cairo to while away the weary 
 hours of the long journey is frequently forgotten as you watch a strange-looking 
 craft exactly after the pattern of those used five thousand years ago, or a long 
 line of fifty or a hundred camels, followed by Bedouins of the desert, attract your 
 attention, or you interestingly follow the movements of the nude Nubians as they 
 work the shadufs, lifting the leathern buckets, filled with water from the Nile over 
 three or four terraces and dash the fertilizing liquid into the furrows of the fields; 
 and you lay aside your book altogether toward the hour of sunset, when the color 
 which was lost in the quivering white heat of noon returns to clothe the land with 
 hues of unspeakable beauty and the evening breeze begins to rustle in the palms, 
 whose long, thin shadows now steal toward the stream, and a deep, violet haze 
 begins to creep along the clefts and hollows of the rose-red range of the Lybian 
 liills, flushing the whole sky with the tender tints of the after-glow till the twilight 
 •deepens under the palm groves and the rippling river glides silently by under the 
 twinkling stars, as, one by one, they dot the growing darkness of the sky, bright 
 harbingers of the brighter morn that now shows her beaming face over the track- 
 less Arabian Desert. 
 
 A Co-operative System. 
 
 I find that there is a co-operation of labor adopted by the people of this Nile 
 Valley that has been in existence for ages, and which goes far toward the 
 solution of certain vexed questions that are now giving Western nations no little 
 trouble. 
 
 Besides small specified wages the workers at the shadufs and water-wheels get 
 a certain percentage of the crop; those who do service on the boats share the profits 
 of the business, and into every form of labor this just principle seems to enter. 
 The possession of land passes from father to son. The tax rates (which, by the 
 way, have caused nearly all the trouble in Egypt for so many years) are now 
 decided by the tax commission under British appointment, and there is an air of 
 contentment and prosperity among the docile, simple-hearted children of the Valley 
 of the Nile that does not create wrinkles on their glossy black skin. 
 
 The Ruins of Tliebes. 
 
 For centuries these monuments of human skill and pride were swallowed in 
 the sand of the desert, but during these latter years they have one by one been 
 unearthed, and to-day we can look upon their magnificent ruins and imagine 
 what they were. 
 
 After a long dusty donkey ride I climbed the lyibyan hills, which here trend 
 away and leave a beautiful amphitheatre, girdled with peaked ramparts of yellow 
 clifi" and smiling with golden harvest fields of ripening grain in the face of the 
 
(293) 
 
294 
 
 AROUND the; WORIvD 
 
 burning sun, and there about me the greatness of old Thebes stood partly- 
 revealed. 
 
 There below us on the mountain's side in the terraced temple of Deyr-el- 
 bakri, which Hashop, first of the great queens of history, built as the vestibule 
 of her tomb. Lower down, on the sandy carpet of the level plain, is the grand 
 
 -^^v' 
 
 KARNAK IN RUINS. 
 
 colonnade which tells us what a structure the Rameseum, or " Tomb of Ozyman- 
 dias," must have been. 
 
 Statue of Rameses the Great. 
 
 Near by are the battered blocks of what was once the most gigantic figure 
 ever carved out of a single granite rock, the statue of Ramejes the Great. 
 "Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown 
 And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command, 
 Tell that its sculptor well those passions read 
 
 Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things, 
 The hand that mocked them, and the heart that fed. 
 
 And on the pedestal these words appear : 
 ' My name is Ozj-mandias, king of kings, 
 
 Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair.' " 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 The Vocal Memnon. 
 
 295 
 
 Out in the grain fields, not far from the Nile in lonely majesty and turning 
 their solemn gaze toward the east, sit side by side those twin colossi one of 
 
 STATUE OF RAMESES. 
 
 whom by a strange confusion with the son of Tithouus and Eos, the valiant 
 ally of the Trojans, has become famous forever as the "Vocal Memnon." For, 
 according to tradition and the ancient poets, as the rays of the rising sun smote 
 
296 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 upon the stone a sweet sound, as of a human voice, came forth, and pilgrims came 
 from afar to Egypt to hear Memnon softly chant his orisen to his mother the 
 rosy-fingered Morn: 
 
 " Beneath the Libyan hills 
 Where spreading Nile parts hundred-gated Thebes." 
 
 The whole statue is covered with the names of the pilgrims, from Sabina, the 
 consort of the Emperor Hadrian, to one Gemellos, "who came here with his 
 well-beloved wife, Rufilla, and his children." 
 
 ISI,AND OP PHII,^. 
 
 This vocal statue of Memnon is composed of two parts. The lower and older 
 consists of a single block of sandstone conglomerate; the upper part was broken 
 ofiF by an earthquake in the year 27 B. C, and was not restored until the reign 
 of Septimius Severus, a number of years afterward. 
 

 ^..fi^llM 
 
 
 
 -3-"i 
 
 tKL 
 
 
 
 INTERIOR OP TBMPLE EDFOO, NII,B. 
 
 (297) 
 
298 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Tombs of the Kings. 
 
 In the steep hollows of the hills, a mile or so away, are those marvelous 
 " tombs of the kings," discovered by Belzoni, which are hewn out of the living 
 
 OBEI,ISK AT I<UXOR. 
 
 rock mountains. These tombs consist of long inclined plains, with a number of 
 chambers receding into the mountain, sometimes to a distance of 500 feet. 
 
 Here lay the mummied bodies of Seti I. and a number of the Rameses, who 
 exerted such mighty influence on the history of Egypt, and other rulers, whose 
 dried, pinched faces may be seen in the Gizeh Museum, in Cairo. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 299 
 
 Away yonder across the Nile (for ancient Thebes extended along both sides 
 of the river) we can see the ruins of the Temple of Luxor, in the midst of which 
 stands forth the obelisk of Rameses II., its fellow being in the Place dela Concorde, 
 Paris. 
 
 From the Temple of lyUxor there was an avenue of about 6500 feet long and 
 eighty feet wide, on each side of which was arranged a row of sphinxes leading 
 to the superb Temple or Temples of Karnak, now a wilderness of broken walls 
 and obelisks, fallen columns, mutilated statues, with here and there a noble 
 propylon, a stately column, or a wonderful wall painting, which tells, like the 
 sculptured epic of Pentaour, the poet, how the king smote his enemies and drove 
 them before his chariot. 
 
 The Temples of Karnak, 
 
 The ruins of Karnak are a priceless library, upon whose carved pages we 
 children of these last years can read of the ancient majesty of the house of ; 
 Amen-Ra. ; 
 
 Under the brilliant Egyptian moon and at the hour when the shadows were ' 
 lengthening and the western sky was crimsoned by the setting sun, I quietly 
 studied these eleven shattered Temples of Karnak. Passing through the second ; 
 and greater pylon, we enter the famous "Hall of Columns." The twelve^ 
 columns forming the double row in the middle are sixty feet high, and the other 
 columns, 122 in number, are about forty feet high. The court is 275 feet deep 
 and 338 feet wide and covers an area of 9755 yards. 
 
 The columns that support the roof of this hypostyle hall are adorned by 
 calyx capitals of gigantic proportions, and upon them are sculptured a record of 
 the names and deeds of the princes of the times and the customs and superstitions 
 of the people. 
 
 "It is impossible," says Lepsius, "to describe the impression experienced 
 by every one who enters this forest of columns for the first time and passes from 
 row to row, amidst the lofty figures of gods and kings, projecting, some in full 
 relief, some in half relief, from the columns on which they are represented." 
 
 The Hall of Columns. 
 
 Some of the columns are prostrate, others lean as though on the verge of 
 falling, and architrave and roof slabs seem on the point of tumbling, but this 
 ruinous condition of everything adds a picturesque charm to the general impres- 
 sion. The outside of both the north and south walls of the Hall of Columns are 
 ornamented with scenes of the great warriors moving against the peoples who 
 lived to the northeast of Syria and in Mesopotamia. 
 
 The inscriptions found at Karnak show that from about B. C. 2433 until the 
 time of Alexander IV. , B. C. 312, the religious centre of Upper Egypt was Thebes, 
 
(300) 
 
 INTERIOR OP TEMPI,E OF KARNAK. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 301 
 
 and that the most powerful of the kings of Egypt who reigned during this period 
 spared neither pains nor expense in building, adding to and beautifying the 
 temples of this place of power. 
 
 While there is a wealth of monuments heaped together at Thebes and Mem- 
 phis that cannot be equaled, yet at Edfou is perhaps the most perfect single 
 temple in all Egypt, looking as though its priests still offered sacrifice to Horus, 
 as they did in the days of Ptolemy Philopator. Except the cornice, the immense 
 pylon is entire, and the building itself is as perfect nearly as when the architects 
 left it — thousands of years ago. 
 
 Two hundred and forty steps of a square staircase lead up to the summit of 
 each of its twin towers; the walls of the temple are covered not with epics of 
 battle, as at Karnak, but with the rites of religion, geographical lists, astronomical 
 tables, inventories of temples and their lands, their priests and precentors, and 
 here we find that the chisel, rather than the pen, has handed down to coming 
 ages an Egyptian encyclopedia. 
 
 The Island of Phils. 
 
 Most tourists return toward Cairo after seeing the wonders of Thebes, but 
 having chartered our launch for nearly three weeks, we continued to the extreme 
 southern limit of Egypt, a little below the first cataract of the Nile. 
 
 At Assuan exiled Juvenal avenged himself in remorseless satire. Here we 
 visited the quarries whence came the material of all the statues, obelisks, shrines 
 and facings of tombs, temples and pyramids at Thebes, Memphis and Heliopolis, 
 and here, after riding past old Kufic tombstones and ruined mosques scattered over 
 miles of yellow desert, we meet the river again, and see before us the pylon 
 of the Temple of Isis and the imposing columns of "Pharaoh's Bed" rising out 
 of the dark green palm groves of the Island of Philae. 
 
 As we walked through and around this Nile-girt island we recalled that to 
 millions for many centuries it was a holy place, whither devout pilgrimages were 
 made to pay homage to the beloved Osiris. We turn from these scenes, where 
 fifty centuries strew their records at our feet, astonished at the revelations of the 
 most ancient, and in some respects, the most wonderful civilization of the world. 
 
 Explorations of Professor Petrie and " Sayings of Christ." 
 
 While visiting the excavated cities on the Nile, it was my pleasure to see 
 Profe-ssor Flinders Petrie, the noted Egyptologist, at work in the rubbish of one 
 of his excavations; and it was at this time that the Professor brought to light an 
 important tablet, the first which has been found giving a description of the wars 
 between the Pharaohs and the ancient Jews. More recently this gentleman, 
 together with Drs. Grenfell and Hunt, and others, have made noted discoveries. 
 
302 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 all of which throw light upon the customs and habits of the ancient Egyptians, 
 and some of them confirm Bible histor3\ "While at work on the banks of the Nile 
 about fifty miles south of Cairo, Professor Petrie found a cluster of tombs, dating 
 
 HAI.I:, OP COLUMNS, KARNAK. 
 
 over five thousand years ago. The peculiarity of these tombs is that they do not 
 contain any of the mummies which are usually found in Egyptian tombs; but 
 instead boxes containing only bones, wrapped carefully in cloth. These tombs 
 
Z 
 
 n 
 
 X 
 p. 
 
 II. 
 o 
 
 « 
 S 
 
 K 
 H 
 
 « 
 K 
 
 (.303) 
 
304 
 
 AROUND THE WORI^D. 
 
 belong to the fifth dynasty of Egyptian kings; and here are found the bones of 
 Nenkheftka, a prince and royal priest, and those of his wife Nefersen and their 
 son; and as there are statues found iii these tombs, it is thus known that at a 
 period earlier than that assigned Abraham, sculpture was a well-known art. While 
 exploring under the auspices of the Egyptian Exploration Fund, Bernard P. 
 Grenfell, M. A., and Arthur S. Hunt, M. A., discovered on the site of the ancient 
 African city, Oxyrhynchus, about one hundred and twenty miles south of Cairo, a 
 precious leaf containing the " Sayings of Christ." The date of these " sayings " 
 is supposed to be about A. D. 200. The page is written on both sides, and is 
 evidently torn from a book, as there is a folio number on it; it contains forty-three 
 lines, feach line consisting of about four words; and of the eight sayings, two 
 cannot be deciphered at all. Three of the remaining six ' ' sayings ' ' are similar 
 to passages found in the Gospels of Matthew and Luke; and the remaining read 
 thus: " Jesus saith, I stood in the midst of the world, and in the flesh was I 
 seen of them, and I found all men drunken, and none found I athirst among 
 them; and my soul grieveth over the sons of men because they are blind in their 
 heart;" " Jesus saith, Except ye fast to the world, ye shall in no wise find the 
 kingdom of God, and except ye keep the Sabbath ye shall not see the Father;" 
 ' ' Jesus saith, Wherever there are .... and there is one .... alone, 
 I am with him. Raise the stone, and there thou shalt find me. Cleave the wood, 
 and there am I." As this page is apparently a part of a volume, other parts may 
 be found which will, doubtless, add interest and importance to the discovery of 
 this fragment. We hail with joy every stroke of the excavator's pickaxe in Bible 
 lands; for as light falls upon the buried memorials of the past, the pages of both 
 secular and sacred history will be illumined. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 THE PYRAMIDS OF EGYPT AND THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. 
 
 )HE;0RISTS have discovered, or think they have dis- 
 covered, many wonderful properties about the Pyramids, 
 but we should not lose sight of the main fact that they 
 are merely vast heaps of stone, exquisitely built indeed, 
 that mark the graves of monarchs who wished to keep 
 their mummied bodies inviolate for all time. 
 
 The Egyptians built their houses for the living 
 of perishable brick; they built their houses for the 
 dead of immortal granite. There was a reason for this, 
 founded upon their theory of human life and death. 
 
 They regarded man as composed of several entities, each having its separate 
 life and functions. First, was the body; then the ka, or double, which was an 
 ethereal duplicate, feature for feature, of the corporeal form; then was the soul, 
 which was popularly represented as a human-headed bird, and after the soul came 
 the ' ' luminous, ' ' a spark from the divine fire. 
 
 By process of embalmment they could suspend for ages the decomposition of 
 the body, and by means of prayer and offerings the other component parts were 
 saved from the second death, thus causing prolongation of existence. 
 
 Egyptian Psychology. 
 
 The "double " never left the body, but the soul and the " luminous " went 
 forth to follow the gods, returning, now and then, to the resting place of the 
 body. Thus, the tomb was called the "eternal house" of the dead, compared 
 with which the houses of the living were but wayside inns, and, therefore, if 
 possible, these eternal houses were built as durable as all time. 
 
 The tomb must contain a private room for the soul, which was closed at the 
 time of burial, not to be opened under any circumstances. It must also 
 contain a wide passage or reception-room, where priests and friends made offerings 
 for the dead. Indeed, the tomb was looked upon as a permanent dwelling, and it 
 was built to promote the well-being and insure the preservation of the dead. 
 
 The construction of the Pyramids and other imposing tombs illustrate this 
 idea, and the success with which these ancient Egyptians preserved the mortal 
 remains of their royal dead is seen in the mummies that retain their facial 
 expressions after these thousands of years. 
 
 20 (305) 
 
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 B 
 
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 hi 
 
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 M 
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 Q 
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 (306J 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 307 
 
 The Pyramid of Lights. 
 
 The great Pyramid of Cheops, at Gizeh, the most prodigious of all human 
 constructions, covers thirteen acres at the base and weighs about seven million 
 tons. Originally it was four hundred and eighty feet high, and it is estimated that 
 the materials that were used for its construction would build over twenty thousand 
 eight-roomed cottages and house a population of one hundred and fifty thousand. 
 
 Like mist of its fel- 
 lows, it stands exactly' 
 square to the four points 
 of the compass. The great 
 limestone blocks, some of 
 them five feet broad and 
 high and thirty feet long, 
 were brought from distant 
 quarries, and propelled, 
 doubtless, on rollers from 
 the river along a well-laid 
 causeway to their present 
 site. Mechanical appli- 
 ances, as well as the art 
 of cutting and polishing 
 the hardest stone, were 
 familiar to these Egyptians 
 of five thousand j^ears 
 ago. 
 
 Its Colossal Dimensions. 
 
 Twenty years, Herodo- 
 tus tells us, the great 
 Pyramid was building, 
 and, when it was com- 
 pleted, instead of present- 
 ing the rough series of steps it does now the whole edifice was cased with shining 
 red syenite, brought from the first cataract, five hundred miles away, which 
 caused it to glisten so brightly that it was known as the ' ' Pyramid of Lights. ' ' 
 Until the Arab conquest it preserved this stone casing, so wonderfully joined as 
 to appear like one block from base to summit. 
 
 In the inside everything was arranged so as to hide the exact place of the 
 sarcophagus and thus baffle all would-be spoilers of the royal tomb. It was 
 
 RAMESES II. 
 
3o8 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 necessary first to discover the entrance under the casing, which masked it. This 
 was found to be nearly in the middle of the north face, at the level of the 
 eighteenth course, about forty-five feet from the ground. 
 
 PYRAMID 01? CHEOPS. 
 
 "When at last the casing was torn off and the block of stone was displaced 
 which covered the entrance, an inclined passage 41.2 inches wide and 47.6 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 309 
 
 inches high was revealed, the lower part of which was cut in the stone. This 
 descended for three hundred and seventeen feet, passed through an unfinished 
 chamber and ended sixty feet further in a blind passage. 
 
 The Interior and Contents. 
 
 Although the spoilers were disappointed here, by careful examination in the 
 roof, sixty-two feet distant from the door, a block of granite was found which shut 
 from view another passage. 
 Having passed this obstacle, 
 they came to an ascending 
 passage which divides into two 
 branches — one running into a 
 limestone chamber in the 
 centre of the Pyramid; the 
 other, continuing upward, be- 
 comes a gallery one hundred 
 and forty-eight feet long and 
 twenty-eight feet high, built of 
 Mokattam stone, so polished 
 and finely wrought that we are 
 told it was difiicult to put a 
 needle or even a hair into the 
 joints. 
 
 Another difficulty must 
 now be surmounted. The final 
 passage leading to the chamber 
 of the sarcophagus was closed 
 by a slab of granite, and fur- 
 ther on was a small vestibule 
 divided in equal spaces by four 
 partitions of granite which 
 must be broken. When at last 
 it was reached, the royal sep- 
 ulchre was found to be a gran- 
 ite chamber nineteen feet high, thirty-four feet long and seventeen feet wide. 
 
 Thus we may see how painstaking these old Egyptians were to guard the 
 safety of the body of the great one among them, and in this and other cases they 
 kept it untouched by human hands and unseen by human eyes for ages and ages. 
 The mummy of the founder has long since been removed, but his stone cof&n is on 
 exhibition. 
 
 A Nir,B BE;i,r.E. 
 
3IO 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Queen Nitocris. 
 
 The second pyramid ot Gizeh, built by the brother of the builder of the first 
 (according to Herodotus), retains some of its original casing at the top, and round 
 the third, the red pyramid of Menkara, where it is supposed once lay the body of 
 
 SFHINX. 
 
 the beautiful Queen Nitocris, a Loreley legend has grown up; the queen's blushing 
 face caused her to be confounded with the rosy-cheeked Rhodopis, the Greek 
 favorite of King Amasis, and superstition imagines that a fair but treacherous 
 woman haunts the Red pyramid and bewitches travelers: 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 3" 
 
 " Fair Rhodope, as story tells, 
 The bright unearthly nymph who dwells 
 'Mid sunless gold and jewels hid, 
 The Lady of the Pyramid !" 
 
 A short walk from the great Pyramid brings us face to face with a statue, the 
 most ancient known, that is more of a mystery, if not more of a wonder, than the 
 royal tomb — the Great Sphinx of Gizeh. 
 
 An Old Monument. 
 
 We have historic 
 proof that it was already 
 ■ in existence in the time 
 of the builder of the 
 great Pyramid, but its 
 real age is unknown. It 
 is hewn in the living 
 rock; its battered body 
 presents but the general 
 form of the lion, the 
 paws, and the breast, 
 restored by the Ptole- 
 mies and the Caesars, 
 retain but a part of the 
 stone facing with which 
 they were originally 
 clothed. The lower 
 part of the head-dress 
 has fallen and the neck 
 is badly broken ; the 
 nose and the beard have 
 been cut away and the 
 red hue which enliv- 
 ened the features is 
 almost wholly gone. 
 
 But notwithstand 
 ing the ravages of time 
 
 and fanatics, it has an expression of strength and greatness. The eyes gaze out 
 upon the waste of desert sand with intense thoughtfulness, the mouth wears a 
 smile, and the whole countenance possesses power and repose. 
 
 The body is about one hundred and fifty feet long, the head is thirty feet 
 
 DAME SOUDAtI,. 
 
312 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 
 CLEOPATRA AT DHNDEBAH. 
 
 long, the face is lour- 
 teen feet wide, and 
 from the top of the 
 head to the base of the 
 monument the dis- 
 tance is about seventy 
 feet. The condition 
 in which it now ap- 
 pears is due to the 
 barbarous destruction 
 of its features by the 
 Mohammedan rulers 
 of Egypt, some of 
 whom caused it to be 
 used for a target. 
 
 We turn from these 
 masterpieces of 
 ancient skill with the 
 unanswered and un- 
 answerable question in 
 our mind: How long 
 did it take to arrive at 
 this degree of maturity 
 and perfection ? 
 
 The 
 Ancient Egyptians. 
 
 During the three 
 weeks I have been 
 studying the sculp- 
 tures and monuments 
 of Upper and Lower 
 Egypt, the query, 
 whence came the orig- 
 inal Egyptians, has 
 been of increasing in- 
 terest. There can be 
 but little doubt that 
 they belonged to the 
 Caucasian race; that 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 313 
 
 their first home was Asia, and that they made their way across Mesopotamia, 
 Arabia and the Isthmus of Suez into Egypt. 
 
 Historians do not fix for us a period when these new-comers from the East 
 came west of the Red Sea, but the strongest evidence points to the remote age of 
 B. C. 5000. 
 
 From carvings and inscriptions excavated recently we have proof that these 
 people from the East found in Egypt a race following agricultural pursuits, 
 navigating the Nile with their rude crafts, dressing scantily and having dark skin. 
 
 CARVING AT SAKKARAI<. 
 
 This aboriginal race called the country Kamt, which means "black," and 
 the name may have originated either from the complexion of the people or, more 
 probably, from the dark, rich color of the cultivated land of Egypt. 
 
 Bible Lore and Picture Record. 
 
 The Bible gives the name of " Ham " to this country. 
 
 The children of Ham 
 
 are said to be Cush, Mizraim, Put and Canaan, and we find that the second of 
 these, Mizraim, is the name given to Egypt by the Hebrews. 
 
 The descendants of Cush are represented on the monuments by the inhabi- 
 tants of Nubia and the negro tribes which live to the south of that country. The 
 children of Put, the third son of Ham, appear to have dwelt on both sides of the 
 Red Sea, to the south of Egypt, carrying on a large trade with the Egyptians as 
 
314 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 far back as 2500 B. C, and the descendants of Mizraim are supposed to have been 
 related to the aboriginal inhabitants of Phoenicia, called in the Bible Canaanites. 
 Without a single exception every representation of the ancient Egyptian 
 depicts him as having a slender form, rather broad shoulders, long hands and feet, 
 sinewy legs and arms, high forehead, square chin, short and rounded nose, jaws 
 slightly protruding and hair fine and smooth. 
 
 The skulls and bones of mummies which anthropologists have examined and 
 measured quite recently, support and confirm the pictures on the tombs, over- 
 throwing utterly the theory that 
 the Egyptian is, from what we 
 understand by the expression, of 
 negro origin. 
 
 Ancient and flodern Type. 
 
 Several times I have noticed 
 that the nose of one of the later 
 Egyptians, as seen in the carv- 
 ings, is slightly aquiline; but this 
 is explained by the intermarriage 
 of the Egyptians with people of 
 Semitic origin-. 
 
 I have been greatly impressed 
 with the fact that the Egyptian 
 of to-day is an exact reproduction 
 of his ancestors who lived fifty 
 centuries ago. Yesterday I was 
 accompanied during the day's 
 ramble amidst the ruins of an 
 ancient temple by a pure Egyp- 
 tian, and in his dress, attitudes, 
 form and face he was the living 
 picture of a figure that was 
 repeated over and over again on 
 the crumbling walls which were 
 
 WATER CARRIER, CAIRO. 
 
 decorated twenty centuries before the Christian era. 
 
 The invasions of the Babylonians, Ethiopians, Assyrians, Persians, Greeks, 
 Romans, Arabs and Turks seem to have had no permanent effect either on their 
 physical or mental characteristics, and the type of the Egyptian fellah which we 
 meet to-day is just what it was in the earliest dynasties. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 The Fellahin. 
 
 315 
 
 These Fellahin compose four-fifths of the entire population of Egypt, and are 
 chiefly employed in agricultural pursuits— indeed, the whole of the cultivation of 
 Egypt is practically in their hands. The Egyptians represented on the earliest 
 monuments to which we can assign a date were already highly civilized and 
 possessed an alphabetic system 
 of writing, a grammar, a govern- 
 ment and a religion. Perhaps 
 there are no people in the world 
 whose wonderful history is so 
 accurately traceable in their laws, 
 customs, costumes and religion 
 as the Egyptians, and much of 
 this pictorial record on stone, 
 after having been buried from 
 the eye of man for thousands of 
 3'ears, is an unsealed volume 
 to the children of the closing 
 years of the nineteenth century 
 of the Christian era. 
 
 Other Nationalities. . 
 
 Besides the Fellahin, of whom 
 we have spoken, about one- fifth 
 of the population of Egypt is 
 composed of Copts, Bedouins, 
 Jews, Turks, Negroes, Nubians, 
 Abyssinians, Armenians and 
 Europeans, all the inhabitants 
 of the land not exceeding much 
 more than seven millions. It 
 is estimated that there art 
 about three hundred and fifty 
 thousand Copts in Egypt to-day. 
 
 They are descendants from the ancient Egyptians and live mostly in the cities of 
 Upper Egypt, are engaged in the different trades, and physically they are of a 
 filler type than the Fellahin. As is well known, they are famous in ecclesias- 
 tical history for having embraced with remarkable zeal and rapidity the doctrines 
 of Christianity as preached, it is supposed, by St. Mark at Alexandria, and before 
 the close of the third century many thousands of these Copts had cast away the 
 
 YOUNG NEGRESS IJM SOUDAN. 
 
3i6 
 
 AROUND THE WORI^D 
 
 weird religion of their fathers and embraced with enthusiasm the gospel of the 
 Nazarene. Because they held persistently to the doctrine that Christ had but one 
 composite nature and denied that He was both human and divine, they were called 
 Monophysites, but to-day, like many other so-called Christians, they are too much 
 occupied in watching the main chance to trouble themselves on theological ques- 
 tions. Generally speak- 
 ing, the knowledge of the 
 Coptic language is extinct, 
 and the Arabic seems to 
 be spoken by them en- 
 tirely. 
 
 The Bedouins. 
 
 The Bedawins (or Bed- 
 ouins) comprise the diff- 
 erent Arabic-speaking and 
 Mohammedan tribes who 
 live in the deserts along 
 the river Nile, and 
 although it is impossible 
 for me to secure correct 
 statistics on the subject, 
 it is supposed that they 
 number perhaps two hun- 
 dred and fifty thousand. 
 During my trip of six 
 hundred miles up the Nile, 
 I rode for miles over a 
 barren desert, and a sight 
 of these independent men, 
 living far away from city or village, confirmed the opinion already formed that 
 they are possessed of brave and heroic characteristics. But I have no special 
 desire to meet them after dark, as I hinted to my guide. The Nubians (from 
 "nub," meaning "gold,") live nearly altogether in Nubia, extreme Upper 
 Egypt, which was a gold-producing country, and they speak a language that is 
 allied to some of the North African tongues. The negroes, forming a large part 
 of the non-native population of Egypt, are held practically as slaves by the 
 natives, and the Turks, although comparatively few in number, hold many civil 
 and military appointments and possess keen business instincts. The European 
 
 TYPE OV THE NEGRESS. 
 
(317) 
 
318 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 population in Egypt consists of Greeks, about sixty-five thousand ; Italians, thirty 
 thousand; French, fourteen thousand; English, nine thousand, and Germans, 
 Austrians and Russians, perhaps ten thousand. 
 
 Greek Merchants. 
 
 In Alexandria the most prosperous business men are the Greek merchants, 
 and although it is said, that these citizens contribute most largely to the crime of 
 the country, no one can deny that their commercial genius has made Alexandria 
 
 the great city that it is. 
 Yes, it is " great, ' ' as 
 measured by the narrow 
 tape-line of modern ma- 
 terialistic greatness, but 
 its ancient pomp, power 
 and prowess have van- 
 ished forever. The 
 shades of Alexander the 
 Great! Where is the 
 city that was founded by 
 the world's mighty con- 
 queror in 332 B. C. ? 
 Where is the Serapeum, 
 the wonderful museum, 
 the library with its mil- 
 lion volumes and the 
 magnificent palaces and 
 temples ? Where are the 
 twin obelisks which Cle- 
 opatra stole from the 
 Temple of the Sun at 
 Heliopolis ? One stands 
 in the fog of London, the 
 other in the flash of 
 Central Park, New York. 
 British guns and Euro- 
 pean commerce have 
 blotted out all that told 
 of the glory of the great 
 Alexandria, by Alex- 
 ander the Great, and the 
 
 NEGRO (SOUDANESE). 
 
320 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 deeds of the Ptolemies, the heroic past of Antony's " Royal Egypt," of Hypatia 
 and Cyril, are naught but the fading memories of bygone history, that are nearly 
 hushed and crushed by the din, dust and dirt of our boasted modern progress. 
 
 Soudan Expedition. 
 
 Fifteen years ago England abandoned the Soudan, after the unfortunate death 
 of General Gordon; and since that time it has been controlled by the Khalifa, the 
 
 Mohammedan fanatic, who 
 succeeded the Mahdi. During 
 these years England has not 
 been idle. There has been a 
 reorganization of the English 
 government in Egypt; the 
 Egyptian army has been 
 drilled, newly equipped and 
 officered by Englishmen; and 
 since the spring of 1896 pro- 
 gressive means have been 
 adopted to reclaim this blighted 
 region. Fighting on the Nile 
 entails many dangers. To 
 avoid the peril of having com- 
 munications cut off and the 
 advanced post of the army 
 surrounded by the enemy, 
 every position as it is occupied 
 is strongly fortified and con- 
 nected by railroad and tele- 
 graph, so that news can be 
 quickly received and troops 
 can be readily moved to the 
 field of action. After hard 
 fighting, Abu Hamid, only 
 one hundred and thirty miles 
 from the equator, was cap- 
 tured; and this is regarded 
 as an important event in the Anglo-Egyptian expediton. As the oppression of the 
 Khalifa became unendurable, the natives of this region hailed with joy the 
 victory of the Egyptian and British army; and now that the flotilla of steamers 
 built for the navigation of the upper Nile is doing effective service it is 
 
 NUBIAN ON THE NILE. 
 
(■320 
 
322 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 hoped that the expedition will press its way into the heart of the Soudan, and 
 
 bring liberty and hope to an enslaved and despairing people. 
 
 All Europe, as well as Egypt, is greatly excited over the war in the Soudan, 
 
 and thousands of 
 Egyptian and hun- 
 dreds of English sol- 
 diers crowd the Nile 
 boats, hurrying on to 
 the seat of war. I 
 have arrived at the 
 extreme southernmost 
 point to which tourists 
 are allowed to go by 
 the command of the 
 Egyptian government, 
 and as I write three 
 boats, filled with na- 
 tive infantry, two 
 packed with boys of 
 the ' ' Union Jack ' ' 
 and one appropriated 
 by the camel corps, 
 are passing up the 
 Nile. 
 
 To make clear the 
 present status of af- 
 fairs in this country 
 allow me to refer to 
 certain historical mat- 
 ters. 
 
 I have given an 
 interview I held with 
 Arabi Pasha, in Cey- 
 lon, which gave an 
 account of the up- 
 rising of the fellahin 
 under Arabi, in 1882, 
 
 and of their defeat by British arms. In this same year came the news from 
 
 Khartoum from the Governor-General of the Soudan that his troops sent against 
 
 the Mahdi had been entirely destroyed. 
 
 FEMME ABARAMBOU DE MAMBETOD (EQUATEUR). 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN 
 
 323 
 
 The Mahdi's Career. 
 
 This " Mahdi," or Mohammed Ahmed, is the son of a carpenter, and his rise 
 to power is, perhaps, the most remarkable event in the history of the Soudan. He 
 was a religious fanatic, and while yet a young man he, surrounded by a number 
 of devoted disciples, went to live on the Island of Abba, in the White Nile, and, 
 having hollowed out a cave in the mud-bank, lived in comparative seclusion, 
 
 
 NII^E WATER CARRIERS. 
 
 fasting and praying for days at a time. His renown soon spread throughout the 
 whole country and he was recognized as the Mahdi el Muntazer, the expected 
 guide, the messenger of God. 
 
 Now the Mahdi came forth, and under his leadership the flame of active 
 rebellion was kindled and burned with intensity throughout all of the Soudan at 
 the time of English conquest of Egypt. In November, 1883, the Mahdi defeated 
 Colonel Hicks, who had been appointed chief of staff in the Soudan, and now he 
 
324 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D. 
 
 held the country from the Nile to the Red Sea and far on toward the Great Lakes. 
 Victory followed his arms until the regular English army partly checked his course. 
 
 SOUDANESE (negrhss). 
 General Gordon's Fate. 
 
 The sad story of Gordon is doubtless familiar to my readers. In April, 
 1884, he telegraphed to England: " I shall hold out here as long as I can, and if 
 
WITH KYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 325 
 
 I can suppress the rebellion I shall do so. If I cannot, I shall retire to the 
 .equator and leave you the indelible disgrace of abandoning this garrison.'' The 
 
 EGYPTIAN DANCE GIRI,. 
 
 British government criminally neglected Gordon's pleas for aid, and after months 
 of untold torture of mind he sent another telegram in answer to one ordering him 
 
■326 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 to retreat: "Retreat impossible. You ask me to state cause and intention of 
 staying at Khartoum. I stay because the Arabs have shut us up and will not let 
 us out. " After a long delay in London and in Cairo an expedition was started 
 
 Typical orientai, dragoman. 
 
 for the rescue of the most heroic Englishman of the century. Although in the 
 early spring he had sent message after message begging for reinforcements, which 
 were unheeded, he sent a final one in December: " I have done all in my power 
 
(327) 
 
328 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvD. 
 
 to hold out; the position extremely critical." The expedition reached Khartoum 
 fort3^-eight hours after poor, noble Gordon had been cut to pieces by the Mahdi 
 and his fellow- fanatics. 
 
 Smarting under this disastrous failure to save Gordon, the British govern- 
 ment, under pressure, decided upon another expedition ' ' to lay the Suakin- 
 
 PEI,I,AH WOMAN. 
 
 Berber Railway," but after losing five hundred and fifty men in a twenty 
 minutes' battle with the Mahdists this enterprise was abandoned. 
 
 British Plan of Revenge. 
 
 Since this time the followers of the Mahdi, especially his right-hand man, 
 Osman Digna, have been giving continual trouble, and from the decisive action 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 329 
 
 taken by the English and Egyptian forces, it is supposed that with them patience 
 has ceased to be a virtue, and that now it is determined to clear out the trouble- 
 some dervishes and open up the Soudan once for all. 
 
 It is rumored (and rumors are nearly as plentiful as flies and fleas in Egypt 
 just now) that there is an understanding between England and Italy, and that 
 the Soudan campaign is for the purpose of assisting the Italians in their sore 
 straits in Erythrea. 
 
 Essentially it is an Egyptian question that is involved. For some time past 
 the dervishes have been concentrating in menacing numbers at Dongola, and there 
 has been some reason to fear that an attack upon the Egyptian frontier would be 
 made. The defeat of the Italians at Adowa undoubtedly made the situation more 
 critical. It exposed Kassala to attack, and it sent a thrill of reviving fanaticism 
 throughout the Soudan. 
 
 Under the circumstances Eord Wolseley thought that military operations 
 
 were necessary, and the Egyptian war oflSce was obliged to act accordingly. It 
 
 cannot be denied that the success of the dervishes had greatly encouraged them, 
 
 and as the inhabitants of this part of Africa make no definite distinction between 
 
 European nationalities, this victory means to them a triumph of the blackskins 
 
 over the whiteskins, which, it is feared, may lead them to be more pugnacious 
 
 and progressive than ever, involving the interests of several European powers in 
 
 the countr3^ 
 
 Egypt and the Dervishes. 
 
 During the month that I have been in Egypt I have on several occasions seen 
 representatives of these dervishes, and I can easily imagine that the descriptions 
 that come to us of their recklessness in times of war are not at all exaggerated. 
 They are said to be absolutely fearless of deaths and, inspired by a deathless love 
 for their religion, which they think is endangered by the presence of Europeans in 
 Africa, their fanaticism knows no bounds. 
 
 Egypt is, and has always been, a land of mystery, and all those who live any 
 time in its atmosphere — whether native or alien — partake of this spirit. After all 
 that has been said, the English as well as the Egyptians are acting most myste- 
 riously in this campaign. Two reasons are given out publicly for this rush of 
 troops up the Nile: first, for the protection of the frontier of Egypt, and, second, 
 for the indirect benefit of Italy by attracting the forces of the dervishes away 
 from her defeated army. If the former is true, why should not the Egyptian and 
 English soldiers stop here at Assouan, the frontier town of Egypt, and build their 
 fortifications at this place of enttance instead of taking the offensive and pushing 
 on toward Dongola ? If the second reason has foundation, why go toward 
 Dongola, which is six hundred miles from Kassala, where the Italian army is in 
 distress ? The facts justify a different conclusion. 
 
330 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The ' ' affairs ' ' in Europe necessitate England having an active policy in this 
 country, which has been under her protectorate for more than ten years. She 
 would prove to France, Russia and other powers that the time for her to evacuate 
 Egypt is not at hand, and that her process of trying to whiten the black hearts, 
 if not the black skins, of these children of the desert must be continued by the 
 flash of the sword and the crack of the rifle ! This may exterminate the der- 
 
 scenb in thb vai<i<by of i-bS, nii,B. 
 
 vishes, but it will not terminate the restless rumbling that is rolling through the 
 heart of the Dark Continent. 
 
 From Egypt to Syria. 
 
 After a month's study of the wonders of ancient and modern Egypt, most 
 regretfully we took leave of the Shepheard's, the most comfortable and best 
 equipped hotel, not only in Cairo, but in the East, and within a few hours we 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 331 
 
 were passing through the fertile fields of Goshen on our way toward the land of 
 the Sultan. On these plains, made historic by biblical events and as the battle- 
 field of contending armies in olden times, the frightened forces of Arabi Pasha 
 gathered after the bombardment and fall of Alexandria, and it was here that the 
 last stroke was given to his cause by English arms. 
 
 Before taking ship at Port Said we spent a short while at Ismailia, Ideated 
 exactly midway on the Suez Canal, between the Mediterranean and Red seas, at 
 
 SCENE BETWEEN JAFFA AND JERUSALEM. 
 
 the Bitter I^akes, through which the canal runs. In this pretty little city, where 
 flowers and fruit trees seem to be in great abundance, the representatives of the 
 civilized nations of the world met on the occasion of the inauguration ceremony 
 at the time of the completion of De Eessep's grand canal, and here it was that 
 certain international friendships were created that gave a new impulse to commerce 
 between Europe and the East. At Port Said, in a sandy plain, and which receives 
 its importance alone from the fact that it is connected with the trans-shipment of 
 vessels to and from the Red Sea by way of Suez, we embarked for Jafia, Palestine. 
 
332 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 The City of Jaffa. 
 
 In the early morning, after a rough night on the Mediterranean, we caught 
 our first glimpse of the mountains of Judea; then the yellow shore came in view, 
 and in the distance we could see the red-tiled houses of Jaffa rising in terraces on 
 the slope of a beautiful hill. 
 
 This city on the sea — one of the oldest cities in the world — is where Hiram, 
 King of Tyre, ui.dertook to send to Solomon wood from Lebanon for the building 
 of the Temple; here it was, according to ancient myth, that Andromeda, the 
 daughter of Cepheus and Joppa, is said to have been chained to the rocks in order 
 that she might be destroyed by a huge sea monster, but was released by Perseus, 
 and it was from this port that Jonah embarked just before his remarkable experi- 
 ence with the big fish. This latter reference prompts us to remark that Jonah, not 
 Samson, was the strongest man that ever lived, for even a whale could not hold 
 him down. 
 
 The present city is uninteresting except for a few biblical events that are 
 associated with it. We visit the reputed home of Simon, the tanner, and have 
 pointed out to us the place on the flat roof where the Apostle Peter had the vision 
 that is recorded in Acts, which put a new interpretation on the gospel that he 
 preached, and a short walk away brings us to the place where the same great 
 apostle is said to have raised Tabitha and given her back to her distressed friends. 
 
 On the Road to Jerusalem. 
 
 The forty miles from Jaffa to Jerusalem can be made in a short time in a train 
 of cars, pulled by a puffing, snorting steam engine. But as this mode of journey 
 seemed to violate a deep-seated sentiment, and would not afford an opportunity to 
 study the places of interest en route, we secured a carriage with the privilege of 
 taking all day for the trip. For miles out of Jaffa we drive through orange, 
 lemon, pomegranate and apricot gardens, and on every hand there are evidences 
 of the greatest fertility. 
 
 About thirty years ago a German colony secured a thousand acres from the 
 Sultan, and large fortunes have been made by these thrifty men and women in 
 horticulture. I am told that ;^8o,ooo worth of oranges and shiploads of other 
 fruit annually are exported by the colony and what was a barren plain has been 
 converted into gardens of the richest beauty. 
 
 The Rothschilds and other wealthy Hebrews have established and supported 
 a Jewish agricultural school near by, but this has not been a success, for these 
 sons of Abraham are so intuitively biased toward commercial life that when a few 
 pounds have been accumulated at the school, they bid good-bye to the hoe and 
 plow and go forth as traders. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 333 
 
 Approaching the Holy City. 
 
 In less than two hours from Raraleh we passed into the beautiful Valley of 
 Ajalon, where in Joshua (x. 12) we have it recorded that Joshua commanded the 
 moon to stand still. Through this valley and over the adjacent hills I walked ten 
 miles, and having as my companion an enthusiastic botanist and a good Syrian 
 scholar, this walk was much more enjoyable than the carriage drive. Within a 
 space of not more than three hundred yards I gathered twenty-two kinds 
 of flowers. The fields and hill slopes looked as if they were covered by many 
 colored carpets; the single-handed plow, used from time immemorial, was seen 
 moving through the rich soil, drawn by an ox and an ass, and driven by the 
 bearded Syrian; peeps were made into wells that were like those used by Father 
 Jacob; I,atron, the reputed home of the penitent thief, was passed (which is now 
 said to be full of thieves, none of whom are penitent); the meadow is reached 
 where some insist that David let fly the stone from his sling that buried itself in 
 the forehead of the great giant; and having resumed our carriage we soon came 
 to Kuloniah, thought to be the Emraaus of Luke xxiv. 13, where Christ appeared 
 on the day of His resurrection. Just as the crimson light from the setting sun lit 
 the western sky over the Judean hills, casting a rosy glow on meadow and vale, 
 we passed through the gate into the city of the Great King. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PILGRIMS IN PALESTINE. 
 
 ' T is estimated that fifteen thousand visitors land upon the shores of 
 Palestine annually, the large majority of whom come on religious 
 pilgrimages. The Holy Sepulchre is visited every year by 
 nearly twelve thousand "pilgrims" — six thousand of these 
 are Russian peasants, four thousand are Greeks from the various 
 countries that fringe the Levant, or Armenians; nearly a thou- 
 sand are French and Latin, about two hundred are Copts from Upper Egypt, 
 and the rest are native Christians. 
 
 The Russian Visitors. 
 
 I have been greatly impressed by the quiet, earnest, serious manner of the 
 Russian peasants, men and women, as they come in from the great Russian 
 convent and barrack that dominate the city on the north, and with bared head and 
 taper in hand make the round of the sacred places; or as they trudge along the 
 road from Jerusalem to Jericho, with great bundles on their backs, bound for the 
 Jordan River. Most of these are past middle age; all are carrying out at last the 
 intention of a lifetime, over the consummation of which they have long brooded 
 and prayed and many of them have walked on foot one or even two thousand miles 
 from their' native village in the interior of Russia before they arrive at the port of 
 embarkation on the shores of the Black Sea, and have voluntarily undergone much 
 inevitable suffering and hardship on the way. Each peasant pays for his own 
 passage and all expenses of the long journey out of the earnings carefully stored 
 up from year to year with this intent, and the Russian government requires, before 
 granting permission to any of them to leave Russia at all, a specific pledge and 
 contract that they will return, and demands also that each one shall deposit in the 
 hands of the authorities enough to defray his return fare. Besides this each has 
 to contribute his toll and fee to the local fund of the Eastern Church, and it is this 
 money that furnishes the means for the many renovations of older buildings and 
 for the erection of new chapels and shrines that are springing up here and there 
 and everywhere in Southern Syria under the aegis of the Eastern Church. 
 
 (334) 
 
(3.35) 
 
336 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 French Catholics. 
 
 Most of the pilgrims who belong to the Latin communion are French. There 
 exists in France a benevolent society for helping poor French Catholics to make 
 this pilgrimage, and this fund allows about one thousand of these pilgrims to visit 
 the Holy Sepulchre every year. .There are not so many Moslem pilgrims, and the 
 Jews are coming in large numbers, not as travelers, but as colonists. The 
 number of tourists who spend from two to six weeks in Palestine is increasing 
 
 THE 
 
 every year, but I 
 Three-quarters of 
 ■environs, perhaps 
 eighteen miles to 
 Damascus. These 
 associations of the 
 
 ANCIENT GATEWAY OF SAMARCAND, IN TURKESTAN. 
 
 have been unable to secure reliable statistics on this point, 
 these attempt no more than a sight of Jerusalem and its 
 go to Bethlehem, five miles to the south, and to the Jordan, 
 the east, and then sail from Beirut, after having run up to 
 do not, apparently, take any real or abiding interest in the 
 land, and seem not desirous of enlarging or giving reality to 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 337 
 
 the- impressions they had derived by study at home. It is quite impossible to take 
 but a most superficial glance of the country under a month's time, but during this 
 time the visitor, by a well-conceived and well- executed plan, can proceed from the 
 extreme south to the extreme north (about one hundred and twenty-seven miles) , 
 and from the Mediterranean to the Jordan, studying somewhat carefully the 
 localities associated with the Old and New Testament. 
 
 Doing Jerusalem. 
 
 Many who attempt "to do " Jerusalem on schedule time and dash from one 
 place of interest to another seem not to realize that the modern city is but the 
 topmost stratum of several former cities; that beneath its outward aspect lie 
 entombed the remnants of those who have played their part in what every one 
 must acknowledge to have been the most remarkable drama of history, 
 and where the ruins of the work of at least three distinct Jewish periods, as 
 well as those of the Herodian, the Roman, the Byzantine, the Crusader and the 
 Moslem lie piled together. In our study of this wonderful city, if we do not go 
 beneath the dust of its present streets and alleys, we are naught but slaves to a 
 bald external materialism. The excavator's pickaxe is yet to unearth stones that 
 have tongues, beneath the spots where the knees of devout pilgrims now touch, 
 and a new historic revelation shall be brought to light. 
 
 The Valley of the Jordan. 
 
 Those who aire interested in the ' ' Palestine exploration fund ' ' are addressing 
 themselves earnestly to this noble work, and I am assured by the honored secretary 
 that the association is greatly encouraged in its work. The tourist, it matters not 
 how quickly he must depart after entering the Holy Land, cannot afford to miss 
 the wondrous ravine of the Jordan, unlike an3'thing else on the face of the globe. 
 Here he passes the threefold interesting site of the prehistoric, the Jewish and the 
 Herodian Jericho, haunted by the martial memories of Joshua's raid, with the 
 vanguard of the Ben -Israel, and by those of many romantic and picturesque 
 episodes belonging to the schools of the prophets, by memories of the Egyptian 
 Cleopatra, of Herod's funeral that here wound its way, of the last journey of 
 Jesus, of the Essenes and early Christians and many other events of sacred and 
 secular history of thrilling interest. 
 
 nagnificent Landscape. 
 
 The topography of Palestine is an agreeable surprise to me. In my trip 
 
 around the world, with but one exception, I have seen no view that surpasses in 
 
 grandeur the one to be had from one of the heights in the Jordan Valley, near the 
 
 traditional spot where the prophet sweetened the bitter waters. The panorama of 
 22 
 
338 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 all Central Palestine lies outspread as a map before your gaze, and from the deep 
 blue rippleless waves of the Dead Sea, to the south, to the dazzling snow fields of 
 Mount Hermon, on the north, a distance of a hundred miles, the magnificent 
 landscape extends, dimpled by numberless vales and domed by many hillocks, 
 flanked on the east by the grand mountains of Moab and Gilead, from which 
 spring the heroic Nebo and Pisgah, watch-towers of the Land of Promise. 
 
 An Old Highway, 
 
 This view, so multiplied and beautiful, must have been the very prospect 
 which presented itself to the eye first of Abraham and then of Jacob as they came 
 in from Mesopotamia, and is substantially the same to-day as it was when unfolded 
 before the eyes of Balaam and Moses. Looking toward Jerusalem, you can see Mount 
 Olivet, and winding through the hill country you can trace the white road that was 
 pressed by the feet of the Christ and His disciples as they came over the road 
 from Jerusalem to Jericho, a part of which you have passed, and must repass 
 before you enter the Holy City again. Along this old highway, through your 
 field-glass, you can distinguish long caravans of Russian and ' French pilgrims 
 solemnl5f moving toward the Jordan, that flashes in the sunlight below you. 
 
 The Holy City. 
 
 It is well, before studying a great city in detail, to ascend to an elevated place 
 and take a bird's-eye view of the city and its surroundings as a whole. This was 
 done the day after our arrival in Jerusalem. From a tower two hundred feet high, 
 erected on the Mount of Olives, looking toward the west, you have the Garden of 
 Gethsemane and the Valley of Jehoshaphat below you; beyond spreads out the 
 Holy City, and behind, nestling in the hills, is the town of Bethany, while twenty 
 miles away is Jericho, not far from the waters of the Jordan and the Dead Sea, 
 which are distinctly visible. The four hills upon which Jerusalem stands were once 
 separated by deep valleys, which are now filled by the debris of successive destruc;- 
 tions of the city. On the southwest rises Zion, the most celebrated of these, which 
 is three hundred feet above the Valley of Hinnom and five hundred feet above the 
 Kidron. It was the old citadel of the Jebusites and "the City of David." 
 Mount Moriah, which was the site of the ancient temple and is now crowned by 
 the Mosque of Omar, is on the southeast, separated from Zion by the Tyropseon 
 Valley and from Olivet by the deep gorge of the Kidron. On the northeast is 
 Mount Bezetha, which was enclosed within the walls, after the time of Christ, by 
 Herod Agrippa, and Mount Akra, which is the highest point of the city, is on 
 the northwest. Thus it will be seen that the city slopes down from the northwest 
 to the northeast, and standing on the northwest angle of the wall, you are at the 
 highest point and see Moriah far below on the southeast, with the Tyropaeon 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 339 
 
 Valley on the west of it, running down between it and Zion to the junction of the 
 Kidron with the Hinnom. 
 
 The city covers an area of more than two hundred and nine acres, has a cir- 
 cumference of nearly two and a quarter miles, is enclosed by walls averaging about 
 thirty-five feet in height; around the walls are thirty-four towers, and in the walls 
 are eight gates, six open and two closed. The population is variously estimated 
 
 JERUSALEM MERCHANTS. 
 
 from 75,000 to 100,000, and the Jews, who have been coming in large numbers in 
 recent years, largely outnumber all others. 
 
 The Holy Sepulchre. 
 
 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre first attracted our attention. As to the 
 genuine site of the holy sepulchre there has been no end of controversy, but it is 
 quite certain that there is no historical evidence that the question was at all settled 
 until the third century, when it appears from Eusebius that over the sepulchre 
 
THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH, CHURCH OF THE HOI,Y SEPUtCHRE, JERUSALEM. 
 (340) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 341 
 
 had been erected a temple to Venus. In the present building there are thirty- 
 seven stations, at which the Roman Cathdlics, Greeks, Armenians and Copts hold 
 services. The following are some of these: The stone of unction on which they 
 say Christ was laid and anointed when taken from the cross; the spot where Mary 
 stood to see what would be done with the body of her son and I^ord; the sepulchre 
 itself and the stone which closed the door; the place where Mary met the risen Lord, 
 
 iriiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitfi!iiiiiiii!ii 
 
 LNTRANCH TO THE CHURCH Ol THF HOI Y SEPULCHRE. 
 
 supposing Him to be the gardener; a hole through the marble pavement where 
 the cross is said to have stood, and what may well surprise us, we are shown at 
 last the tomb of Melchizedec and the tomb of Adam. 
 
 The holy sepulchre stands in the centre of the rotunda. The slab is cracked 
 through the centre, is much worn by adoring pilgrims, and the little chapel that 
 
342 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 encloses it is lit by forty-three lamps, always burning. The church is the joint 
 property of the Greeks, the I^atins (Catholics), Armenians and Copts, and each 
 take their turn in making processions to the holy places and worshiping at the 
 sacred shrines. 
 
 The Mosque of Omar. 
 
 Upon Mt. Moriah, where once stood the great temple designed by David and 
 built by Solomon, is now the Mosque of Omar, and tradition declares that it 
 covers the spot where Oman had his threshing floor, where Abraham o£Fered up 
 Isaac and where David interceded for the plague-stricken people. Standing in 
 this magnificent building, one's thoughts rush back to the past, when psalmists 
 wrote and patriots sung of the temple's glory. Hither the tribes came up; here 
 shone forth the light of the Shekinah; here was the centre of the religious, the 
 poetical and the political life of God's chosen people, and to this spot still devout 
 Jews in every land turn with tearful eyes and prayerful lips, longing for the 
 restoration of their loved land. The Christian thinks of the little Child presented 
 here by His mother, of the divine Youth asking and answering questions, and of 
 the man-God " teaching and preaching the things concerning Himself." 
 
 The Sacred Rock. 
 
 The spacious area known as the Haram esh-Sherif, upon which the mosque 
 stands, is surrounded by a wall 1601 feet long on the west, 1530 on the east, 1024 
 on the north and 932 on the south, and is entered by eight gates on the west. In the 
 building there are many things to attract attention, but the greatest interest centres 
 upon the Sacred Rock, immediately beneath the dome, about sixty feet long and 
 forty-five feet wide. Numberless legends cluster about this rock, Jewish, 
 Christian and Moslem. Here, it is claimed, Melchizedec offered sacrifice, Abraham 
 brought young Isaac as an offering, the ark of the covenant stood, and through 
 the circular hole is said to have passed the blood of the sacrifices, which was carried 
 by way of the brook Kidron outside of the city. In the cave below are shown the 
 praying places of Abraham, Elijah, David, Solomon and Mohammed. 
 
 The next building of importance in the enclosure is the Mosque-et-Aksa, 
 which contains the tombs of the sons of Aaron, the praying place of Moses, and 
 other places of traditional interest. From the Haram a fine view can be had of 
 the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where devout Jews long to be buried, for to this place 
 will the Messiah come when the prophecy of Joel is fulfilled: " I will gather all 
 nations and will bring them down into the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead 
 with them there for my people, whom they have scattered among the nations, and 
 parted my land." 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 343 
 
 The Via Dolorosa. 
 
 The Via Dolorosa is a narrow but remarkably picturesque street leading from 
 a point near St. Stephen's gate to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and, remem- 
 
 THE "WAII,ING PI,ACE," IN JERUSALEM. 
 
 bering that it is sacred with the tears of many generations of pilgrims who strove 
 to walk in the footsteps of the agonizing Christ, we cannot step upon its rough 
 
344 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 pavement with indifference as we visit Pilate's Judgment Hall, the place where 
 the cross is said to have been put on Christ's shoulder, and the different "Stations 
 of the Cross ' ' until Calvary is reached. I have visited no spot in Jerusalem more 
 pathetic than the Jews' Wailing Place. 
 
 Jews' Wailing Place. 
 
 Every Friday afternoon the old wall of the temple, composed of enormous 
 blocks of marble, is lined with Hebrews of every age and station in life, who 
 spend hours reading their psalter and prophets, while they weep over the ruins of 
 the Holy City. Jerome makes an affecting allusion to the remnant of mourners 
 in his day who paid the Roman soldiers for the privilege of leaning against this 
 wall while they bemoaned their fate; and as I watched these children of ancient 
 Israel, holding their sacred books, their bodies waving to and fro, their lips mutter- 
 ing and wailing out lamentation after lamentation, while tears rolled down their 
 faces, I could not for a moment doubt their sincerity, and a thrill ran through me 
 as I recalled their past history and their present condition in the city of their 
 fathers. 
 
 The subterranean quarries which run under nearly the length and breadth 
 of the city give the probable explanation of the place where the mighty stones of 
 the temple were secured. As you pass through a vast succession of mighty aisles 
 and mammoth chambers you see the marks of chiselings left centuries ago, you 
 pass niches for the lamps of the quarr3'men, and now and then you stumble 
 against huge blocks partly cut from the rocks, and pillars partially shaped and left 
 unfinished. 
 
 In the Holy City. 
 
 The exact localities of Calvary, where the Christ was crucified, and the tomb 
 in which He lay, have greatly interested the hosts of pilgrims who have visited 
 Jerusalem for many centuries. 
 
 The Empress Helena, mother of Constantine, visited the Holy City in A. D. 
 326, with the purpose of identifying these spots, and tradition tells us that it was 
 by means of a dream that her desires were fulfilled. Her son erected a magnifi- 
 cent basilica over the place where the tomb was supposed to have been, and 
 although this original edifice has long since disappeared the present Church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre is located where the dream of the devout Empress led her to 
 suppose were the tomb of the Lord and the place of the crucifixion. 
 
 In this church we are surrounded by everything that human invention and 
 modern art could devise, but we turn away sickened at heart to think that such 
 folly and superstition should be associated with the most sacred events of the 
 world's history. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 345 
 
 Here we are shown where the Empress sat and threw pieces of gold into the 
 rubbish to encourage the workmen in their search for the cross; there we are 
 shown a slab of limestone where, it is said, the I^ord's body was anointed when 
 taken from the cross, and scores of other evidences of the baldest superstition are 
 marked and labeled in the most artificial manner. 
 f^ ' " — --"-^ -■ - ■ .^'~* 
 
 GOLGOTHA. 
 
 It is surpassingly strange that this place was selected, if the biblical record 
 was consulted at all. It occupies a position, not on a solid rock, but above the 
 ground, in space. The chamber of the tomb is lined with marble, and has not 
 the least resemblance to a cave cut in the rock, and it is located inside the city 
 walls, as they existed in Christ's time, while all admit that the true Calvary must 
 have occupied a place outside of these walls. 
 
346 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 riajor Conder's Discovery. 
 
 We are indebted to Major Conder, who labored in connection with the Palestine 
 Exploration Fund, for ably pointing out in 1878 that in all probability the place 
 where the crucifixion took place is a rocky knoll outside the Damascus Gate, and 
 known as "Jeremiah's Grotto." This knoll presents a striking resemblance to a 
 
 THE " ECCO HOMO" ARCH, JERUSAI<KM 
 
 human skull, which corresponds to the words in the New Version, "the place 
 which is called the skull.". 
 
 The following points of evidence in favor of this being the actual scene of the 
 crucifixion are striking: It was certainly outside the walls of the city in the time 
 of Christ; it was at the junction of the two main roads, from S. to N. and from 
 W. to E., and consequently there would bemany passers-by (Matt, xxvii. 39, Mark 
 XV. 29). This hill is called by the Jews to-day, as it has always been called, the 
 "Hill of Execution;" it is held as an accursed spot, and Jews even now when 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 347 
 
 they pass it, spit and throw stones in its direction, uttering this imprecation: 
 "Cursed be He who destroyed our nation by aspiring to be king thereof." 
 
 The Writer's Impressions. 
 
 For ten days I studied this and other localities, and I confess I was deeply 
 impressed by the place and its surroundings. 
 
 On this skull-shaped mound outside of the gate of Damascus the whole 
 transaction could have been seen b}'- the vast multitudes that thronged the public 
 
 CHURCH Olf NATIVITY. 
 
 thoroughfares at that season, and the priests could have witnessed the terrible 
 tragedy from the wall of the city or from the tower of Antonia. 
 
 If this little hill is established as the Golgotha of the New Testament, it 
 necessarily follows that the sepulchre in which oiir I^ord was laid must have been 
 situated somewhere in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 Biblical Testimony. 
 
 In John we read: "Now, in the place where He was crucified there was a 
 garden, and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never man yet laid. 
 
348 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 There laid they Jesus, therefore, because of the Jews' preparation day, for the sep- 
 ulchre was nigh at hand. ' ' The garden containing the tomb was, therefore, quite 
 close to the spot where the cross stood. 
 
 A tomb that seems to correspond remarkably with the biblical account has 
 lately been excavated, and while as yet there has been little published about it, a 
 company of English Christians have bought the spot and the garden near by, and 
 doubtless we shall hear much of it in the near future. 
 
 The Probable Tomb. 
 
 It is located 230 feet from the summit of the knoll supposed to be Golgotha; 
 it is hewn out of the solid rock, and evidently was the tomb of a rich man — 
 Joseph of Arimathea. It is located in a garden, and the whole structure of the 
 tomb shows how the disciple could have stooped down and looked in without 
 entering. 
 
 It consists of a chamber cut in the rock, seven feet six inches in height, four- 
 teen feet six inches long and eleven feet two inches wide, having a low partition 
 dividing the tomb into two parts. In these are three receptacles for human 
 bodies, but only one of these appears to have been actuallj' completed, and por- 
 tions of the ' 'scale, ' ' which was loose at the bottom of the receptacle that was 
 evidently used, was taken to the British Museum, where the authorities declared 
 that "no body has ever decomposed in the tomb, if this is from the bottom of it." 
 
 There are strong evidences that the Crusaders knew of this tomb. At the 
 east end two crosses are inscribed on the wall in red paint, with the letters Alpha 
 and Omega at the corners, and it has been ascertained that an arched building 
 once existed in front of the tomb, supposed to have been erected about the twelfth 
 century. 
 
 There are the faint outlines of an inscription which, if ever deciphered, may 
 tell us how those who, centuries ago, looked upon this sepulchre regarded it. 
 
 From what has been written certain inferences may fairly be drawn, namely, 
 that the traditional Holy Sepulchre cannot possibly be the true site of the tomb 
 of Christ, as it lies within the walls of the ancient city; that the skull-shaped hill 
 is in all probability the true Calvary, and that the rock-cut sepulchre in the 
 immediate vicinity of the hill answers all the conditions of the tomb in which 
 the body of the Christ lay. 
 
 I have penned these words in a room cut into the rock, just below the Skull 
 Hill, where lives the old Christian man who watches over the new-found tomb, 
 who insists that he stays in the house occupied by the gardener whom Mary thought 
 she saw when she looked upon the resurrected L,ord. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 349 
 
 Christ's Birthplace. 
 
 Mounted upon a fine horse, it was with anticipations of great pleasure that I 
 passed through the Jaffa Gate, and leaving Jerusalem to the north, passed into the 
 Valley of Gihon, on the way to the birthplace of the King of kings. 
 
 THE TRADITIONAI, STONE OF EI-IJAH, NEAR BETHLEHEM. 
 
 Every new view of the historic valleys, meadows and hillocks recalls events 
 that are and shall always be of stupendous importance and thrilling interest to 
 the world. 
 
 We are now in the plain which marks the boundary line between Judah and 
 Benjamin, where the Philistines were defeated by David; presently there is pointed 
 out a well where tradition tells us that the wise men from the east on their way 
 
35° AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 to the manger of the child Jesus, stooping to draw water, saw the star reflected 
 in the water. 
 
 Here is the spot where it is said the prophet Elijah rested on his flight from 
 the fiery Jezebel, and less than a mile farther we approach the tomb of Rachel,, 
 which brings to mind the touching story of the death of Jacob's loved wife, as given 
 in the thirty-fifth chapter of Genesis, just before she reached her journey's end. 
 
 After a short six-mile ride on an elongated hill, well cultivated in terraces 
 round the sides and with fertile grain fields in the valley below, we look upon 
 Bethlehem. 
 
 The groups of women in white robes standing yonder on a terrace just under 
 the town, gesticulating to one another in vigorous conversation, remind one of 
 the group that surrounded Naomi, the sorrow-stricken widow returning to this, 
 her native home, with exclamations of surprise at her haggard face. 
 
 The men and women in yonder field cutting the golden grain give you a 
 vivid picture of Ruth gleaning after the reapers, when Boaz saw her in these very 
 fields about Bethlehem, loved her for her love, and in process of time she became 
 the grandmother of David the king and the ancestress of Christ. 
 
 It was upon one of these hills that David, the ruddy youth, kept his father's 
 sheep, as the young boy is doing on the green slope before you, and it was in the 
 sunshine and shadow of these vales and hillocks that God created within him 
 those treasures of music and poetry that have enriched all the centuries. 
 
 The Scripture allusions to Bethlehem, which we now enter, are very 
 numerous. Here it was that Samuel anointed David to be king of Israel, and in the 
 adjacent hill country the shepherd boy encountered wild beasts, and composed his 
 earliest Psalms. From here he was sent to minister to the diseased mind of Saul 
 by his melodious harpings. Hence he went forth to see his brethren with the 
 army and slay the giant champion of Philistia. 
 
 This little city was one of the strongholds fortified by Rehoboam after the 
 division of the kingdom, and it figured conspicuously in the political life of the 
 ancient Hebrews; but, above all, it was the prophecy of Micah and its wonderful 
 fulfillment which make Bethlehem a household word wherever Christianity is 
 professed, and cause millions all over the world to turn their thoughts toward this 
 Judean village as Christmastide conies round. "And, thou, Bethlehem, 
 Ephratah, though thou be little among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee 
 shall He come forth unto me that is to be ruler in Israel, whose goings forth have 
 been from of old, from everlasting." 
 
 The angelic announcement made to the shepherds as they kept their sheep by 
 night nearby, and the wondrous events recorded in detail by the Evangelists 
 Matthew and I,uke, and summed up by St. John in the statement that "the Word 
 was made flesh and dwelt among us," have made this place known in all civilized 
 lands. 
 
A BETHI,EHHM MERCHANT. 
 
352 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 At the eastern extremity of the village we find a confused fortress, like a pile 
 of buildings, which comprises the Church of the Nativity, and the three contig- 
 uous convents belong respectively to the Latin, Greek and Armenian Churches. 
 
 Church of the Nativity. 
 
 The nave of the church, which is the common property of all Christians, is 
 supposed to be the oldest monument of Christian architecture in the world. 
 
 In the chapel of St. Helena (named for the mother of Constantine) there are 
 forty-four marble columns, taken from Mount Moriah, supposed to have been 
 originally in the porches of the great temple. 
 
 Descending a spiral staircase we enter the Grotto of the Nativity, which is 
 a cave in the rock, over and around which the church and convent buildings are 
 reared. The vault is 33 feet by 11 feet, encased with Italian marble and decorated 
 with numerous lamps, figures of saints, embroidery and other ornaments. 
 
 A silver star on the floor of the grotto indicates the traditional spot where 
 the Saviour was born ; above it sixteen silver lamps are perpetually burning, and 
 around the star are the words: Hie de virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est. 
 
 That caves in the hillside adjacent to the inn were utilized as stables for the 
 cattle, especially when the inn was crowded, and that in such a cave the Redeemer 
 was born, is a tradition commonly accepted as early as the time of Justin Martyr, 
 about a hundred years after the facts occurred. This, therefore, may be the 
 actual place of Christ's birth. 
 
 St. Jerome's Qrotto. 
 
 St. Jerome, who ardently believed in this grotto as his Saviour's birthplace, 
 spent the greater part of his life just here. Here he fasted, prayed, dreamed and 
 studied; here he gathered round him his devoted followers in the small commu- 
 nities which formed the beginnings of conventual life in Palestine; here his fiery 
 spirit vented itself in the treatises, letters and commentaries which he sent forth 
 from his retirement to terrify and enlighten the western world; here he made the 
 famous translation of the Scriptures which is still the "Biblia Vulgata" of the 
 Latin Church; and here took place his pathetic death, which Domenichino has so 
 vividly portrayed in his world-renowned picture. 
 
 Near the outskirts of the town is seen the well of Bethlehem, or David's 
 Well, which is referred to in 2 Samuel xxiii. 13-17, and i Chronicles xi. 15-19. 
 
 When David and his men were in the cave of Adullam (which is still 
 pointed out), and Bethlehem was garrisoned by the Philistines, David expressed 
 the desire, "Oh, that one would give me to drink of the water of the well of 
 Bethlehem, that is at the gate." Three brave men heard the wish of their leader, 
 rushed through the hosts of the enemy and brought him the cooling drink he 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 353 
 
 longed for, but David would not drink of the water because the lives of his men 
 had been hazarded. 
 
 The Shepherds' Field. 
 
 From an elevated and most picturesque spot near the walls of the old city can 
 be seen the Shepherds' Field, which stretches for miles over the green meadows 
 and hill slopes. . 
 
 As we looked out upon the charming landscape, yonder in the distance could 
 be seen a group of shepherds, with long crooks in their hands, watching over 
 the flocks as they quietly fed in the vales. My guide informs me that all during 
 the spring months, in these fields the shepherds watch their sheep by night. 
 "And there were in the same country shepherds abiding in the fields, keeping 
 watch over their flock by night. And lo! the angel of the lyord came upon them, 
 and the glory of the Lord shone round about them ; and they were sore afraid. 
 And the angel said, Fear not; for behold I bring you good tidings of great joy, 
 which shall be to all people. For unto you is born this da}' in the City of David 
 a Saviour, which is Christ the lyord. And this shall be a sign unto you: Ye shall 
 find the babe wrapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a manger. And suddenly 
 there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly hosts praising God, and 
 saying. Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men. ' ' 
 
 The Pools of Solomon. 
 
 The immense basins, a few miles south of Jerusalem, known as Solomon's 
 Pools, are in such an admirable state of preservation that you can hardly realize 
 that they are more than a century old, but it is probable that they date from 
 Solomon's time, although we know that they were restored by Pontius Pilate. 
 
 At 'present water is conveyed from these pools only as far as Bethlehem, 
 although the course of the aqueduct can be traced to the old court of the temple, 
 a distance of nearly fourteen miles, and it is reported that the Turkish govern- 
 ment has on hand funds for the restoration of these pools to their original state 
 of usefulness. 
 
 There is near the upper pool a huge building with castellated walls, obviously 
 of Saracenic origin. 
 
 The Sealed Fountain. 
 
 A short, distance to the right of this castle is the sealed fountain of Solomon 
 (Song of Sol. iv. 12), which regulated and secured the constant supply of water 
 for the Holy City. 
 
 The pools consist of three enormous cisterns of marble masonry, and their 
 measuremen s are as follows: The lower pool is in length 582 feet; breadth, east 
 
 23 
 
354 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 end, 207 feet; west, 148 feet; depth at east end, 50 feet. Dr. Thomson says 
 that "when full it would float the largest man-of-war that ever plowed the 
 ocean." 
 
 The middle pool is located 248 feet above the lower pool and is 423 feet in 
 
 GIBEON, THE SCENE OF SOI,OMON'S SACRIFICE. 
 
 length, 250 feet in breadth at the east end and 160 feet at the west end and is 39 
 feet in depth at the east end. 
 
 The upper pool is 160 feet above the middle pool and in length is 380 feet, in 
 breadth at the east end 236 feet, at the west end 229 feet, and has a depth of 
 25 feet. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 355 
 
 For more than three hours from these pools we passed over a rough road 
 southward. Valleys and spurs of hills are crossed and olive groves, vineyards 
 and fig gardens are seen on either side during much of the way. Merchantmen, 
 with their long camel trains, are frequently met; and husbandmen are seen fol- 
 lowing their one-handled plows, drawn by donkeys and oxen. 
 
 The House of Abraham. 
 
 Soon we reached a spot where the Jews declare that their Father Abraham 
 pitched his tent, which is still known as the House of Abraham. 
 
 A crowd of thoughts rushed through our minds as we passed over the old 
 road to Hebron, probably the oldest road in the world. Over it Abraham passed 
 on that journey of faith to sacrifice his son of promise on Mount Moriah; over it 
 David led his faithful host to conquer the stronghold of the Jebusites, on Zion; 
 here, doubtless, Isaac, Jacob and Solomon walked, thinking of the destiny of that 
 nation which promised to be the centre of universal empire, and along this 
 way, perhaps, the child Jesus was borne in His mother's arms on the flight to 
 Egypt. 
 
 The Town of Hebron. 
 
 We were somewhat wearied when we passed through the gate of the old city 
 of Hebron, one of the most ancient cities in the world. We know that it was 
 built seven years before Zoan (Numbers xiii. 22), that is, Tanis in Egypt, and 
 when Josephus wrote it was 2300 years old. It was a walled city in the time of 
 Abraham (Gen. xxiii. 10), and we also learn from Genesis that Damascus was a 
 city at the same time, but which can claim seniority is not known. 
 
 Here lived the father of his people and the "friend of God;" from this place 
 Joseph went forth to seek his brethren in Shechem, where his strange fate befell 
 him; here it was that Joshua waged fierce struggles; this was selected as one of 
 the cities of refuge, unto which the pursued man-slayer might flee; it was here 
 that David had his residence for over seven years, when he reigned over Judah 
 alone. Here Absalom was born and led his wild, faithless life-; and in this place 
 was Abner treacherously murdered by Joab. 
 
 Hebron is situated in the narrow Valley of Eschol, still abounding in vine- 
 yards; the streets are dark and dirty and the houses are mostly built of stone and 
 covered over with cupolas or small domes, which give a curious and interesting 
 effect. 
 
 Of the 12,000 people who live in this unique old town about 600 are Jews, 
 who attract attention by their pale faces and long ringlets. The Moslems, who 
 compose the rest of the population, are noted for their rank fanaticism and super- 
 stition, which fact makes it dangerous for Christians to visit the place unguarded. 
 
356 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 At the entrance to the city we were met by a Turkish official, who, armed to 
 the teeth, went before us in all of our walks and drives through the streets. 
 
 Only recently an Englishman was set upon by a crowd of these roughs and 
 only escaped with his life. 
 
 The Cave of flachpelah. 
 
 The Cave of Machpelah is the object of the greatest interest in Hebron. It 
 recalls some of the most touching of the Old Testament scenes. 
 
 "When Sarah, the wife of the patriarch, died, we read that "Abraham stood 
 up from before his dead and spake unto the sons of Heth, saying: 'I am a 
 stranger and a sojourner with you; give me a possession of a burying place with 
 you, that I may bury my dead out of my sight.' " The contract was made in 
 the gate of the city, and the field, the cave, the trees in the field, all were "made 
 sure to Abraham for a possession, and Abraham buried Sarah, his wife, in the 
 cave of the field of Machpelah." (Gen. 23.) 
 
 Patriarchs' Burial Place. 
 
 As old Jacob lay a-dying he tenderly spoke of this Cave of Machpelah, and 
 said: " There they buried Abraham and Sarah, his wife; there they buried Isaac 
 and Rebekah, his wife, and there I buried teah." He gave explicit directions 
 that his body should rest there with his fathers. 
 
 Perhaps there was never a grander funeral than that of J acob, when Joseph, 
 " with all the servants of Pharaoh, the elders of his house, and all the elders of 
 the land of Egypt, and all the house of Joseph, and his brethren and his father's 
 house, and chariots and horsemen" carried the embalmed body from Egypt into 
 the land of Canaan to the Cave of Machpelah. 
 
 Closed to Jew and Gentile. 
 
 It seems strange that the brutal Turkish government should be allowed to 
 close the doors to this cave, that is of such great interest to the Christian world 
 and to all who are concerned about ancient Israel. The only Christian visitors 
 who have ever crossed the threshold of the building that covers the cave are the 
 Prince of Wales, the Marquis of Bute, the Crown Prince of Prussia, General I,ew 
 Wallace, Princes Albert Victor and George of Wales. 
 
 I was shown cracks and rents along the walls where devout Jews are accus- 
 tomed to place written prayers addressed to their Father Abraham. I have before 
 me an exact copy of one of these prayerful epistles, and the Jewish mother who 
 wrote it and attempted to put it into the cave w here the bodies of her distin- 
 guished ancestors rest appeals most pathetically for individual, domestic and 
 national blessings. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 357 
 
 The Oak of Abraham. 
 
 This is believed to be the only spot on earth which attracts to it all who 
 possess the one creed, "I believe in God." The Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem 
 separates Moslem, Jew and Christian, but here they meet with a reverence 
 equally affectionate. Not far awaj' from the cave the Oak of Abraham is visited, 
 where it is supposed that the Lord appeared to the patriarch as he sat in his tent 
 dqor and gave him the account of the coming destruction of Sodom and Gomor- 
 rah. It is certain that in this neighborhood this wonderful conference took place, 
 but that this oak, old as it seems, was then standing is as probable as that the 
 grave of Adam has been identified. 
 
 SYRIAN PEASANT MOTHER AND DAUGHTER. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 PEOPLES AND PLACES OF THE SOUTH AND NORTH. 
 
 <^|^?f^?^g^^ URING the course of a month I have ridden on horseback more 
 *^*1b^^^^ than four hundred miles through Palestine and Syriaon my 
 
 i^MM^^^wr - On this long tour, with the aid of an excellent dragoman, 
 
 l^fl^^^P^V' I have not only been enabled to visit the principal cities and 
 - ^-^ - — '" ■■• " towns of these historically interesting countries, of which I have 
 written, but I have had occasion to study the habits and customs of the wild 
 Bedouin tribes that live their unsettled lives in these valleys and along these 
 mountain slopes. 
 
 On the western side of the Jordan river there are many of these roving 
 bodies of men, women and children, divided into different family tribes, but on 
 the eastern side of the river there are only a few tribes much larger than the 
 others and very much wilder. Each tribe has a sheik or prince, who is final 
 authority on all questions, and often has the power of life and death. This office 
 is hereditary, as a rule. "When an election is necessary it is done by vocal decla- 
 ration, must in all cases be unanimous, and must be endorsed by the government 
 at Constantinople. 
 
 The head of each tribe is legally required to pay to the Sultan one Turkish 
 pound (nearly five dollars), for each man who is able to go to war, which amount, 
 paid j'early, rids these men from military duty under the government. Certain 
 districts of country are allowed these tribes where their tents and herds are 
 usually found, but frequently they roam in other parts of the land, carrying on 
 their independent raids until they are driven into their own regions by Turkish 
 guns. 
 
 Their tents are generally made of the hair of goats, ingeniously woven, and 
 their food consists nearly altogether of bread made into thin wafers, looking very 
 much like sheets of sandpaper, butter made from the goat and bufialo cow and 
 fish, which abound in all the streams. 
 
 The Bedouins are natural born robbers, and it is always unsafe for any one to 
 ' pass through their country unguarded. 
 
 Some time ago a party was visiting the Jordan and Dead Sea with the 
 usual guard; but four of the number separated from the others, and in less than 
 
 (358) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 359 
 
 two hours they were seized, and robbed of their horses, money and clothing. A 
 most pitiable set they were, I am told, when they reached their tents after night. 
 
 An American Guide's Story. 
 
 Mr. Rolla Floyd, who is the only American dragoman in Palestine and Syria, 
 entertained me for several days by a recital of some of his experiences during a 
 thirty years' stay in the country. 
 
 Not long since, while accompanying a number of ladies and gentlemen 
 through the desert, in the neighborhood of ancient Shechem, a noise was heard 
 in the hills near by; and, on turning, he found they were being surrounded by 
 forty or fifty Bedouins, headed by their sheik. Of course there was great terror 
 among the party, and for a while Mr. Floyd was stricken with fear. But a for- 
 tunate thought occurred to the dragoman. It is a custom among these wild 
 tribes to befriend any one who is in trouble, if he reaches the sheik and, seizing 
 his belt, exclaims: " I am your guest." 
 
 While demands were being made upon Mr. Floyd and those under his protec- 
 tion, and the robbers were in the act of carrying out their desires, he rushed 
 forward and, taking a strong grip upon the belt of the sheik, exclaimed, in 
 Arabic, "These are all your guests." This acted like magic. The robbery was 
 ordered ofiF ; the sheik drew his sword and in a most pompous manner announced 
 to his men that the party was under his protection and guidance, and, leading the 
 way, he guided them for hours through the desert. 
 
 When I was suddenly approached by a band of these barbarians at ten 
 o'clock at night, in the wild country east of the Jordan, by the moonlight I saw 
 that there was no belt to seize. As all of them were clothed in single and 
 unadorned garments, I resorted to another device, which proved just as eflFective, 
 though not so dignified, and which put me quite a distance from them in a very 
 short time. 
 
 A Missionary's Adventure. 
 
 Mr. Carey, whose life-long residence in Palestine and Syria furnishes him 
 with a fund of information on this subject that is possessed by few, gave me an 
 account of a personal episode with the Bedouins which illustrates their exceeding 
 kind-heartedness after they have robbed you of everything that they can lay 
 their hands on. 
 
 Mr. Carey left his home in Nablous on a missionary tour among the moun- 
 tains once owned by the tribe of Reuben, east of the Jordan river. After crossing 
 the stream he had not gone many miles when he was surrounded by a score of 
 these men, who, lifting him off his beast, stripped him of his clothing and, while 
 he sat on a cool rock near by and watched the performance, they examined 
 
36o 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 carefully all of the garments, ripping open the linings of his coat, and after they had 
 taken everything, even his pocket-knife, they tossed him his clothing and politely 
 informed him that he could go his way. 
 
 As it was now late in the evening, he told them that he could not continue 
 his journey after dark without losing his way, and requested that they would take 
 care of him until the next morning. They immediately and gladly agreed to do 
 this, helped him on his donkey, led the way through the valley to the place of 
 
 PALESTINE MAT WEAVERS. 
 
 their encampment, cooked him food, listened most attentively while he told them 
 Bible stories, tucked him in bed and started him on his journey next day with 
 everything that he had when he met them except his money and other things in 
 his traveling-bag that they could possibly use. 
 
 It seems that the belt trick is not known among the inhabitants of Reuben's 
 ancient province. I had occasion to visit one of their encampments, but it is 
 impossible for me to picture adequately their mode of living. 
 
(361) 
 
362 AROUND THE WORI^D 
 
 Each family in the general family tribe occupies a small tent of one room, 
 which is the sleeping, cooking and working apartment. The floor is the bare 
 ground, which in a few cases may be partly covered by bits of dirty goat-hair cloth. 
 
 The eating is done in front of the tents, where the family sits in a semicircle, 
 using their palms as plates and fingers as forks. A peculiarly distasteful butter, 
 churned from the milk of the goat and buffalo cow, is their chief means of sup- 
 port, and, as a rule, they reside in one locality not more than two months. 
 
 They claim a direct descent from Abraham, who was, they insist, a wealthy 
 sheik of a large tribe. 
 
 Home of Eli and 5amuel. 
 
 It was in the city of Shiloh that Joshua divided the land among the tribes, 
 and here the tabernacle was reared; here dwelt old man Eli and the boy Samuel, 
 whose strange experiences are recorded in the first book of Samuel. 
 
 As we ride northward the fields abound in heavy-headed grain, the fig and 
 olive groves stretch for miles before us, and to the right Mount Ebal and to the 
 left Mount Gerizim loom up. 
 
 At Jacob's Well. 
 
 In the valley dividing them we reach the famous Jacob's Well, where Christ 
 held His memorable conversation with a Samaritan woman. 
 
 The authenticity of this place has never been doubted. Doubtless here the 
 Saviour sat, and over to the right is the parcel of ground that Jacob gave to his 
 son Joseph. 
 
 The well is not a spring of water bubbling up from the earth, nor is it reached 
 by an excavation, but it is a shaft cut in the living rock about nine feet in diameter, 
 and now more than seventy feet deep. The mouth is funnel-shaped, and its sides 
 are formed by the rubbish of a church building that was once erected over it. 
 
 Passing between the mountains of Gerizim, where blessings were pronounced 
 upon' the people, and Ebal, where curses were poured out upon them, we 
 encamped for the night at ancient Shechem. 
 
 Somewhere about here Joseph was seized by his brethren and sold to the Ish- 
 maelites, and his bones were brought from Egypt and buried here. 
 
 On these plains all Israel assembled in the time of Joshua. After the death 
 of Solomon this city was made the seat of government under Jeroboam. After 
 the return from the captivity it became the centre of Samaritan worship. 
 
 After His talk with the Samaritan woman Christ tarried here two days and 
 
 many believed in Him. 
 
 The Samaritans. 
 
 There is, and always has been, a bitter animosity between the Jews and the 
 Samaritans, and it became a sin on either side to extend the rights of hospitality. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 363 
 
 -^r:^ ':**- 
 
 
 
 The greatest curiosity to be seen in the old synagogue is the celebrated 
 Samaritan Codex of the Pentateuch, which is affirmed to have been written by a 
 grandson of Aaron, but which is certainly not older than the Christian era 
 
 On Mount Qerizim. 
 
 The view from the summit of Mount Gerizim is exquisite. In the far west 
 are the waters of the Mediterranean; in the north the snowy top of Hermon, partly 
 intercepted by Mount Ebal; below, to the east, is the fertile plain that was the 
 arena of so many important events in sacred history, and beyond are the mountains 
 of Gilead. 
 
 There is only a small number of them left who exclusively follow their old 
 customs and inhabit what is known as the Samaritan quarter of the city. They 
 believe in one God, the resurrection of the body, the advent of the Messiah, the 
 Mosaic system of feasts, and 
 they acknowledge only the 
 authority of the Pentateuch in 
 the Old Testament writings. 
 
 The journey from Shec- 
 heni (now called Nabulus) to 
 Samaria is through the beau- 
 tiful valley, where every va- 
 riety of vegetation is seen, 
 and where I counted in oue 
 large field thirty -two plowmen 
 at work. 
 
 The City of Samaria. 
 
 Entering the city of Sa- 
 maria, as one looks upon the 
 desolate scene, the burden of 
 prophecy comes to mind 
 (Hoseaxiii. i6), and the story 
 of the siege of Samaria, as 
 given in 2 Kings vi. 24-33, 
 lend a peculiar interest to a 
 place that once exerted such 
 a mighty influence, but is now largely a pile of magnificent ruins. 
 
 From this desolation we turn toward the romantic plain of Esdraelon, which 
 stretches from the Mediterranean on the west across Central Palestine, with an 
 average width of ten or twelve miles, to the river Jordan, on the east. These 
 fertile meadows, which now smile in their gay dresses of wild flowers and ripening 
 grain, have for centuries been the scene of plunder and war. 
 
 ,^^'' 
 ^*r 
 
 WEAVING. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 IN SADDLE AND TENT. 
 
 
 O spend thirty days in saddle and tent is not the most restful 
 experience, but this must be accomplished if one would cover 
 the length and breadth of Palestine and visit ill the places of 
 sacred and secular history that have made this wonderful land 
 so famous. 
 
 In former chapters I have written of the country between 
 Jaffa and Jerusalem, of the Holy City, of the region about the 
 Jordan and Dead Sea, of the country south of Jerusalem, and of the city of the 
 Samaritans. 
 
 Accompanied by an intelligent conductor and a native dragoman, who fur- 
 nished horses, servants, tents and provisions for several weeks' trip, a congenial 
 party of ten Anglo-Saxons, forming quite a caravan, moved out of Jerusalem 
 northward. 
 
 From the beautifiil hiU Scopus a last view is taken of the Holy City, which 
 leaves an indelible impression on the mind. 
 
 The town of Nob is soon passed, where David came for Goliath's sword, 
 where he ate the shewbread which Christ commended and where the tabernacle 
 and ark were stationed in the time of Saul. A mile or two further the site of 
 Gibeah, the native place of the first king of Israel, is pointed out, where seven 
 descendants of Saul were hanged by the Amorites, and which was the scene of 
 one of the most touching stories of motherly love on record, as given in 2 Samuel 
 xxi chapter. 
 
 To the left we now have Mizpah, where Saul was chosen king, and to the 
 north is Gibeon, the place where Solomon offered a thousand burnt offerings and 
 the Lord appeared to him in a dream. 
 
 We pause for a short while at the spot where tradition tells us Mary missed 
 the young boy Jesus and returning to Jerusalem found Him in the temple asking 
 and answering questions, and an hour later we reach Bethel. 
 
 Records of Bethel. 
 
 Here Abraham reared an altar, and from this place he went into Eg^'pt and 
 fell into temptation, dishonoring God before the heathen king, who dismissed him 
 from the country; here Jacob, weary with his forty miles' journey, lay his head 
 
 (364) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 365 
 
 upon a pillow of stone and had that wondrous dream of angels ascending and 
 descending the mystic ladder which made him exclaim: " This is none other than 
 the house of God and this is the gate of heaven," and he called the name of that 
 place Bethel. At this place Jeroboam set up a golden calf and tried to wean the 
 people firom the service of God, and hereabouts the bears tore forty-two children, 
 who cried to Elisha: " Go up, thou bald head." 
 
 After passing over a barren, rocky hill, we enter the vineyards and orchards 
 of the land of Ephraim, which is as fertile and picturesque as any part of Pales- 
 tine. But Shiloh must not be passed unnoticed. Its large heap of ruins seem to 
 be a singularly graphic fiilfillment of the terrible prophecj' of Jeremiah. 
 
 Following the Footsteps of the Christ. 
 
 The fourth day out from Jerusalem in our northward journey we camped on 
 the Plain of Esdraelon, with the mountains of Gilboa on our right. 
 
 The following day, as we entered the ^'alley of Jezreel, associations crowded 
 upon us. 
 
 Here is where Ahab coveted the vineyard of Xaboth ; in this neighborhood is 
 where the painted Jezebel proceeded with her wicked machinations, and where 
 the prophet Elijah came down upon her with messages of wrath. It was along 
 this waj' that Jehu came "driving furiously' ' and put Jehoram to death; and it was 
 in this valley that Gideon gained his famous \'ictory over the Midianites. 
 
 The Valley of Jezreel. 
 
 On this verj- ground Saul pitched his camp, while the Philistines encamped 
 over there at Shunem and here it was that he was alarmed when he saw the host of 
 the Philistines, and under cover of darkness visited the witch of Endor. 
 
 During the next two hours' ride we pass Gideon's Fountain, where his 300 
 men lapped water, putting the hand to the mouth. Next comes Shunem, where 
 the woman lived who entertained Elisha and whose son he raised from the dead. 
 Bej'ond lies the village of Xain, where Christ raised the widow's son (Lukevii. 11- 
 16), and a short ride across the plain brings us to the foot of Mount Tabor, from 
 whose altitude of 2017 feet, the traditional scene of the transfiguration, the eye 
 can range from the vicinity of Dan on the north to Beersheba on the south. 
 
 riount Tabor. 
 
 Standing almost alone in the plain. Mount Tabor presents a most striking 
 appearance. It is somewhat in the shape of a sugar-loaf, flattened at the top. 
 On the southern side it is rough and rugged, with nothing but barren limestone 
 visible; northward it is covered with thick foliage, oak, terebinth and syringa 
 ornamenting it from base to summit; elsewhere it presents the appearance of a 
 series of well-planted terraces. 
 
366 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The summit of the mountain is a broad plateau, covered with the ruins of 
 buildings of all ages; there are the thick, beveled stones of a wall, very ancient, 
 undoubtedly, and there are the remains of towers, houses, cisterns and vaults, 
 probably belonging to the age of the Crusaders. 
 
 As we approach the high hill on which Nazareth stands a sharp, precipitous 
 spur of the mountain, called the Mount of Precipitation, is pointed out, which 
 name arose from the worthless tradition that alleges that it was from here that the 
 people of Nazareth sought to cast the Saviour down headlong. It is about two 
 miles from the town and about as improbable a site as could have been selected. 
 
 Nazareth. 
 
 After climbing a sharp ascent through glens and gullies and over steep and 
 rugged places, where the well-trained Syrian horses pick their way with mar- 
 velous sagacity, we at length 
 enter Nazareth, where the 
 Christ spent thirty years of 
 His life. 
 
 The town, as seen from 
 the enclosing hill, is very pic- 
 turesque, backed by high cliffs 
 and approached from under 
 the shade of, spreading oaks, 
 with substantial looking 
 houses of stone, the massive 
 walls of a large church and 
 monastery and the graceful 
 minarets of two mosques, 
 overtopped by the tall, spiral 
 forms of the dark green 
 cypress tree. Nazareth was 
 the residence of Joseph and Mary, the scene of the annunciation, the place 
 whence Joseph went to Bethlehem " to be taxed with Mary, his espoused wife," 
 and the home of our L,ord until He entered upon His public ministry. After- 
 ward He visited the place of His boyhood and young manhood, when His 
 townsmen attempted to cast Him from the brow of the hill and kill Him. 
 
 Tradition has marked many spots in the town, associating them with the life 
 of Christ, but nothing positive can be asserted about these localities. 
 
 It was with some degree of satisfaction that I visited a carpenter's shop, and 
 as it is quite certain that for centuries and centuries these shopmen have been 
 
 FARMING IN VAI,I,EY OF JEZREEI,. 
 
(36?) 
 
368 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 doing the same kind of work, I imagined that the man and boy whom I watched 
 at work were engaged in the same kind of activity as were Joseph and the boy 
 Jesus nearly nineteen hundred years ago. 
 
 The Virgin's Fountain. 
 
 At the Fountain of the Virgin, a plentiful spring of water issuing from three 
 mouths, the village women in their white robes and bright head-dresses assemble, 
 
 and gracefully bear away their 
 well-filled pitchers on their 
 heads; and as the same foun- 
 tain has been in use ever 
 since the town was inhab- 
 ited, doubtless she who was 
 ' ' blessed among women" 
 would often come here, per- 
 haps carrying the infant Sa- 
 viour in just the same fashion 
 as that young mother yonder, 
 who moves away from the 
 sparkling stream, with her 
 pitcher poised on her head 
 and her babe in her arm. 
 
 Among the remarkable 
 things in the modern history 
 of Nazareth are the circum- 
 stances that Napoleon supped 
 here on the night of the battle 
 of Tabor, and that a plot was 
 laid here by Pasha Jezzar to 
 murder all the Christians in 
 his dominions as soon as the 
 French had evacuated. His 
 bloodthirsty scheme, however, was thwarted by Sir Sydney Smith, the English 
 admiral. 
 
 Cana and Mount of Beatitudes. 
 
 As we ride toward the Sea of Galilee we soon approach the village of Cana, 
 where Christ performed His first miracle at the marriage feast, when ' ' the con- 
 scious water saw its lyord and blushed," where He healed the nobleman'sson who 
 lay sick at Capernaum, and where Nathaniel, " the disciple in whom there was 
 no guile," was born. 
 
 A PAI,ESTINE BKDOUIN. 
 
X'Z Mil 
 
 
 4' 
 
 ii-, 
 
 
 
 
370 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Resuming our journey, we have now on our left, rising up out of the fertile 
 plain, a curiously shaped hill, having on its summit two peaks or horns, from 
 which it derives its name of Horns of Hatton. 
 
 This is known as the Mount of Beatitudes, where it is supposed our Lord 
 preached the Sermon on the Mount. 
 
 Another tradition makes this also to be the scene of the feeding of the five 
 thousand, as recorded in the fourteenth chapter of Matthew. 
 
 The plain before us was the last battlefield of the Crusaders. Here, in July, 
 1187, Saladin defeated them. 
 
 The Crusaders' Battlefield. 
 
 As faithfully chronicled by Michaud we read that at nightfall they gathered 
 together by the Horns of Hatton, Guy of Lusignau, with Raynald of Chatillon, 
 the grand rnaster of theXnights Templar,, and the Bishop of Lydda, bearing the 
 holy cross. 
 
 But a great triumph awaited the Moslem, and the power of the Crusaders 
 was broken forever in the Holy Land. King Guy was taken prisoner; Chatillon, 
 whom Saladin hated with a peculiar hatred, was killed, and all the army of the 
 noble knights were slain or taken prisoner. 
 
 The more one sees of the Moslem rule the stronger is his wish that ere long 
 some power may rise and sweep .from this land of Messed memory a nation of 
 brutes, whose barbarous cruelty is only exceeded by their religious hypocrisy.. 
 
 On the Sea of Galilee. 
 
 A magnificent view of the Sea of Galilee can be obtained several miles .before 
 its waters are reached. 
 
 The whole of the lake, from below Tiberias on the right to Capernaum on 
 the left, is distinctly seen, lying in a basin more than a thousand feet below the 
 steeply-sloping and well-clothed hills upon which you approach it. 
 
 Across the lake rise the irregular hills, bare and barren in foliage, but ricli 
 and varied in tone and tint; behind are the mountains of Galilee, and way to the 
 north snow-capped Hermon stands in its spotless purity against the clear 
 azure sky. 
 
 The natural beauty is only exceeded by the divine associations. 
 
 The City of Jesus. 
 
 Cast out from Nazareth, Jesus made Capernaum on the lake His city. Along 
 these shores He spent the principal part of His public ministry, and to record the 
 mighty works performed within sight of these blue waters would be to transcribe 
 a very large part of the four gospels. 
 
A PAI,ESTINE BURDEN BEARER. 
 
 . (371) 
 
^72 AROUND THE WORI^D 
 
 From the banks of the lake He called Peter, James and John, the inner circle 
 of His chosen band. From Simon's boat He taught the people on the shore, fol- 
 lowing His talk by the miracle of the draught of fishes, and using a ship as His 
 pulpit He delivered that marvelous discourse on the kingdom of Heaven. Here 
 it was that He gave those striking parables of the sower, the wheat and the tares, 
 the grain of mustard seed, the leaven and the net cast into the sea. It was on 
 these waters that a great tempest arose, when He rebuked the winds and the sea 
 and there was a great calm. 
 
 Divine Associations. 
 
 It was on the slope of the hill over yonder that He cast the devils out of the 
 men from the tombs, causing the destruction of the herd of swine; near there He 
 fed the five thousand and afterward walked on the crystal pavement of the sea 
 toward His disciples, rowing in the storm. 
 
 From these waters He caused to be caught the fish, in whose mouth was 
 found the piece of money with which He paid tribute, and after His resurrection 
 in the gray dawn of the morning He suddenly appeared to His disciples, after 
 they had toiled all night, and caught nothing. There on the shore He kindled 
 the mysterious fire of coals, spread the farewell meal, and there the impulsive 
 disciple, who, three times warned, had thrice denied his lyord, by threefold con- 
 fession, was restored and reinstated in the apostolic ofiEce. 
 
 Camping Near Capernaum. 
 
 On the site of Capernaum we camped, and from my tent door the views were 
 very striking. 
 
 The hills, except where there are cliffs; recede gradually from the lake; they 
 are of no great elevation, but everywhere from the shore the snow fields of 
 Hermon are visible. 
 
 The shore-line, for the most part regular, is broken on the north into a series 
 of little bays of exquisite beauty, especially at Gennesaret, where the beaches, 
 pearly white with myriads of minute shells, are on one side bathed by the clear 
 waters of the lake, and on the other shut in by a fringe of oleanders, rich at this 
 time of the year with their blossoms, red and bright. 
 
 Lake Gennesaret and the Jordan. 
 
 The lake is pear-shaped, the broad end being toward the north. The greatest 
 width is six and three-quarter miles, and the extreme length is twelve and a 
 quarter miles. 
 
 The Jordan river enters at the north, coloring the lake for a mile from its 
 mouth, and passes out pure and bright at the south. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 373 
 
 On the northwestern shore is a plain nearly three miles broad, known as 
 Gennesaret; on the west there is a recess in the hills containing the town of 
 Tiberias; on the east are small tracts of level ground before the hill country is 
 reached, and on the south the open valley of the Jordan stretches out toward the 
 Dead Sea, covered near the lake with luxuriant vegetation. 
 
 The lake is from 600 to 700 feet below the Mediterranean Sea. It is still 
 
 GROUP SHOWING COSTUMES OF PALESTINE AT PRESENT DAY. 
 
 subject to sudden and violent storms, as in the time when Christ and His disciples 
 rode upon its bosom. 
 
 In the lake there are a number of warm springs, and violent earthquakes are 
 not infrequent, as in 1837, when half of the inhabitants of Tiberias perished. 
 
 A Prophecy Fulfilled. 
 
 Capernaum, Bethsaida, Chorazin — mounds of rubbish, tangles of thistles, 
 heaps of ruins — recall those pathetic words of our I^ord: "Then began He to 
 upbraid the cities wherein most of His mighty works were done because they 
 repented not: 
 
374 
 
 AROUXD THE WORLD 
 
 "Woe unto thee, Chorazin! Woe unto thee, Bethsaida! For if the mights- 
 works which were done in you had been done in T>Te and Sidon, they would 
 have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes. But I say unto you, it shall be 
 more tolerable for TStc and Sidon at the day of judgment than for you. 
 
 "And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, shall be brought 
 
 down to hell! For if the mighty works whidi were done in thee had been done 
 
 in Sodom, it would have remained until this day. But I say unto you that it 
 
 shall be more tolerable for the land of Sodom in the day of judgment than for 
 
 thee." 
 
 A noonlight Sail. 
 
 Accompanied by a single friend and four boatmen I can never forget the 
 eight hours spent on the Lake of Galilee. 
 
 During the afternoon a whistling wind dotted the water with white caps, but 
 as the sun was setting behind the crimson curtains in the western sky, and as the 
 full moon calmly loolied into the depths of the lake, a voice seemed to sjieak, 
 "Peace, be still," for suddenly there was a g^eat calm. 
 
 The white houses of Tiberias were distinctly visible in the glowing moonlight. 
 The sombre ruins of the cursed cities lay like black heaps upon the shores. The 
 hill platforms upon which the multitudes were miraculously fed and taught were 
 outlined in the distance. 
 
 The mighty hills on the eastern shore stood like giant sentinels against the 
 sky, and the placid moon-kissed Galilee seemed a fit pavement for the feet of the 
 Prince of Peace. 
 
 Far in the night we passed into tlie Jordan at the extreme northern point of 
 the lake, crossed to the eastern side, and after quite a thrilling experience with a 
 band of Bedouin robbers, which somewhat disturbed the placidity- of the occasion, 
 we turned our boat toward the tents on the western shore, some miles awa}-. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 THE EYE OF THE EAST. 
 
 lifr>^ii^HII,E the ancient cities along the Nile are known only by 
 "-f^ the magnificence of their ruined temples, while Baalbec and 
 Palmyra have long since passed away, while Babylon is a 
 heap in the desert and Tyre a ruin on the shore, Damascus, 
 which Josephus declares was standing before Abraham's time, 
 and which is called in the prophecies of Isaiah ' ' the head 
 '%^'^hj' of Syria," is to-day, as it has been for thousands of j'ears, 
 
 a mighty city, influencing the customs and trade of a region 
 of hundreds of miles around it. 
 
 Its importance in the flourishing period of the Jewish monarchy we know, 
 from the garrisons which David placed here and from the opposition it presented 
 to Solomon. How close its relations continued to be with this people we infer 
 from the chronicles of Jeroboam and Ahaz and the prophecies of Isaiah and Amos. 
 Its mercantile greatness is indicated by Ezekiel in the remarkable words addressed 
 to Tyre: "Damascus was thy merchant in the multitude of the wares of thy 
 making for the multitude of all riches, in the wine of Helbon and white wool." 
 Alexander the Great saw its greatness and sent Parmenio to take it while he 
 was engaged in marching from Tarsus and Tyre. Julian, the apostate, describes 
 it as " the eye of the East." Recognized at one time as the metropoHs of the 
 Mohammedan world, its fame is mingled with the exploits of Saladin and 
 Tamerlane. 
 
 The tradition that the murder of Abel took place here is alluded to by 
 Shakespeare (I King Henry VI., i. 3). 
 
 Winchester.— Tiiay, stand thou back, I will not budge a foot; 
 This be Damascus; be thou cursed Cain 
 To slay thy brother Abel if thou wilt. 
 
 The Streams of Lebanon. 
 
 The cause of its importance as a city in all the ages is easily seen as you 
 approach it from the south. 
 
 Miles before you see the mosques of the modern city the fountains of a 
 copious and perennial stream spring from among the rocks and brushwood at the 
 
 (375) 
 
376 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 base of the Anti Lebanon, creating a wide area about them, rich with prolific 
 vegetation. These are the "streams of Lebanon," which are poetically spoken 
 of in the Songs of Solomon, and the " rivers of Damascus," which Naaman, not 
 unnaturally, preferred to all the "waters of Israel." This stream, with its many 
 branches, is the inestimable treasure of Damascus. 
 
 While the desert is a fortification round Damascus, the river, where the 
 habitations of men must always have been gathered, as along the Nile, is its life. 
 
 Modern Damascus. 
 
 The city, which is situated in a wilderness of gardens of flowers and fruits, 
 has rushing through its streets the limpid and refreshing current; nearly every 
 dwelling has its fountain, and at night the lights are seen flashing on the waters 
 that dash along from their mountain home. 
 
 As you first view the city from one of the overhanging ridges you are 
 prepared to excuse the Mohammedans for calling it the earthly paradise. 
 
 Around the marble minarets, the glittering domes and the white buildings, 
 shining with ivory softness, a maze of bloom and fruitage, where olive and pome- 
 granate, orange and apricot, plum and walnut mingle their varied tints of green, 
 is presented to the sight, in striking contrast to the miles of barren desert over 
 which you have just ridden. 
 
 Damascus remains the same true type of an oriental city. Caravans come 
 and go from Bagdad and Mecca, as of old; merchants sit and smoke over their 
 costly bales in dim bazaars; drowsy groups sip their coffee in kiosks overhanging 
 the river; the bread boy cries aloud, "O Allah ! who sustainest us, send trade;" 
 the drink-seller as he rattles his brass cups exclaims, ' ' Drink and cheer thine 
 heart," and all the brilliant costumes of the East mingle in the streets. 
 
 Its Bazaars and Streets. 
 
 Although Cairo contains a much larger population than Damascus, its bazaars 
 are by no means as extensive or imposing. These bazaars are in long avenues, 
 roofed over, and each is devoted to some special trade. There we find the silk, 
 the saddler's, the tobacco, the coppersmith's, the bookseller's, the shoe and many 
 other bazaars, and now and then we come across an ' ' antique Damascus blade ' ' 
 which was made last j'ear in Germany. 
 
 While passing through the city on Friday, the great market day, I was 
 attracted by Persians in gorgeous silks, Nubians in black and white, Greeks in 
 their national costumes, Jews with long ringlets. Bedouins, Druses, Kurds and 
 Armenians mingling together, and lines of pilgrims on their way to Mecca — a 
 marvelous medley of humanity, not to be seen, perhaps, elsewhere on the globe. 
 The great mosque (there are over two hundred smaller ones) exhibits three 
 
(377) 
 
378 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 distinct styles of architecture, marking three epochs in the history of the place, 
 and proclaiming the three dynasties that have successively possessed it. In the 
 transept is a chapel said to contain the head of John the Baptist, which was found 
 in the crypt of the church. 
 
 The ' ' street called Straight, ' ' which is interesting to all New Testament 
 readers, is about a mile in length and runs across the city from west to east. 
 
 In round numbers the population is about one hundred and fifty thousand, 
 one hundred thousand of which are Moslems. These are notorious for their 
 fanaticism, which has a terrible proof in the massacre of July, i860, when six 
 thousand Christians were slaughtered in the streets and nine thousand more in 
 
 the district about the 
 city. 
 
 In this butchery 
 we have a true picture 
 of the " unspeakable " 
 Turk when he is 
 aroused. 
 
 The churches 
 and convents, which 
 had been filled with 
 the terror-stricken 
 Christians, presented 
 piles of corpses, and 
 the thoroughfares 
 were choked with the 
 slain. 
 
 Through the in- 
 fluence brought to 
 bear upon the Turkish government the governor and three city officers were 
 shot, fifty-six of the citizens were hanged, one hundred and seventeen others 
 received the death penalty, four hundred were condemned to imprisonment and 
 exile and the city was made to pay the sum of one million dollars. 
 
 The Unspeakable Turk. 
 
 Some refused at first to believe that the Turks were responsible for the 
 massacre, but it has been shown beyond a doubt that they connived at it, they 
 instigated it, they ordered it, thej'^ shared in it. Their conduct north of Damascus 
 at present is a repetition of the same thing. 
 
 Besides the biblical allusions that have been made to Damascus it will be 
 remembered that Paul was converted on his way here, and that when the 
 
 WOMAN GRINDING FI,OUR AT DAMASCUS. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 379 
 
 governor sought to apprehend him he was let down in a basket through a window 
 and made good his escape, and that during his residence here "he preached 
 Christ in the synagogue, that He is the Son of God, and confounded the Jews 
 which dwelt at Damascus, proving that this is the very Christ." We are 
 tempted to think that it would take more than the eloquent voice of a Paul to 
 disturb the consummate indifference of the average pipe-smoking, coffee-drinking, 
 sleepy-eyed citizen of modern Damascus. 
 
 The Ruins of Baalbec. 
 
 Standing among the ruins of this inglorious city you look upon the remains 
 of two distinct but blended civilizations. The popular natural reUgions, which 
 for centuries held Asia captive, mingle the wrecks of their colossal architecture 
 with the exquisite forms that the artistic genius of Greece created. 
 
 Camels, sheep and goats graze on the grass which grows over the fallen, 
 crumbling columns and capitals, and the opening spring casts fresh, green garlands 
 over these relics of the dead past. 
 
 Great columns lean heavily against tottering walls, as if determined to post- 
 pone their fall to the last moment, and over the scene of desolation the white 
 chain of the I,ebanon, capped by perpetual snow, gives a chilling look. 
 
 Sun Worship and Temples. 
 
 Here is the ancient Heliopolis of the Greeks and Romans, celebrated for its 
 sun worship in the temple which was one of the wonders of the world. Here 
 you may witness how the pride and pomp of paganism arrayed itself before its 
 death; here you see the ruin of an entire city, full of disorder, poetry, grandeur, 
 and as you study some of this enormous debris in detail you find that nowhere is 
 the Corinthian acanthus carved with more delicacy than on these gigantic blocks. 
 
 The temples of Baalbec, dating at least from the reign of Antoninus Pius, 
 were erected on the Acropolis of the city, which was placed on an eminence, sur- 
 rounded with gigantic walls, the stones of which belonged to that Phoenician 
 architecture which has earned the name of Cyclopean. 
 
 First, there was the Great Temple of Jupiter, which has preserved a large 
 part of its portico, its ornate architrave, its fluted columns and a rich profusion of 
 decoration; then there was the Temple of the Sun, the ruins of which clearly 
 indicate its past grandeur, and the last was what was known a^ the Circular 
 Temple, the only remains of which are a few highly decorated chapels. 
 
 Courts and Porticoes. 
 
 Passing through a long passageway we enter a court, seventy yards long by 
 about eighty-five wide, which is in the form of a hexagon, with here and there 
 rectangular recesses in the wall, each with columns in front. 
 
38o AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 From this hexagon originally a handsome portal led into the great court, 
 about a hundred and ^ity yards long by a hundred and twenty-five wide, in the 
 centre of which stood the basilica, while around were rectangular recesses, called 
 by the Romans exedrae. 
 
 In front of this great court the principal temple of Baalbec stood. This 
 temple had columns running round it, only six of which are now standing. These 
 are sixty feet in height, with Corinthian capitals and bordered with a "frieze. 
 
 Sacred to Jupiter. 
 
 When the temple was in its glory there were seventeen columns on either 
 side of the temple and ten at either end, fifty-four in all, the building enclosed by 
 them being two hundred and ninety feet long by one hundred and sixty broad. 
 
 The masses of broken columns and falling walls indicate not only the work 
 of the "tooth of time," but the ruthless ravages of the Arabs, who have destroyed 
 priceless treasures in art in order that they might secure the iron clamps in 
 the columns. 
 
 In the grand portico of the temple there is an inscription, which may be 
 translated as follows: "To the great gods of Heliopolis. For the safety of the 
 lyord Ant. Pius Aug. and of Julia Aug., the mother of our Lord of the Castra 
 (here it is quite indistinct) Senate. A devoted (subject) of the sovereigns (caused) 
 the capitals of the columns of Antoninus, while in the air, (to be, ) embossed with 
 gold at her own expense. ' ' 
 
 Sun's Trilithon. 
 
 The second temple, or Temple of the Sun, stands on a platform lower than 
 that of the Great Temple; nineteen out of the forty-six columns, each sixty-five 
 feet high, remain, and the capitals and entablatures of the columns and the friezes 
 round them are as exquisitely executed as anything in Baalbec. 
 
 The portal of the temple claims one's special attentiqn. The door-posts are 
 monoliths, most richly ornamented with foliage and genii; the architrave is of 
 three stones, on the lower side of which is the figure of an eagle, the emblem of 
 the sun, and the basement, which is one hundred by seventy feet, is ornamented 
 most profusely. 
 
 Built into the outer wall are three stones, the largest ever used in architecture. 
 The temple was, at one time, called Trilithon, or three-stoned, probably from these 
 stupendous blocks. One stone measures sixty-four feet long, another sixty-three 
 feet eight inches, and a third sixty-three. Each is thirteen feet high and thirteen 
 feet thick, and placed in the wall at a height of twenty feet above ground. 
 
 It is still an unsolved problem how they were ever raised to their present 
 position. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 381 
 
 The Quarries of Lebanon. 
 
 At the quarries in the lyebanon mountains, where doubtless these stones came 
 from, I examined an unfinished block which is seventy-one feet long and nearly 
 eighteen feet in thickness. The Circular Temple, which is located near to the 
 modern village, is surrounded by Corinthian columns, is richly adorned by a frieze 
 of flowers and the entablature is heavily laden with elaborate decoration. 
 
 As I sat upon an ornately sculptured parapet and, quietly and alone, studied 
 this wilderness of magnificent ruins, where were displayed Phoenician glory and 
 power, the poetry of Grecian art and the pomp of Roman pride, the transitory 
 character of even the most permanent and glorious of the material was pictured 
 before me as never before. 
 
 ORPHANS IN CAMP ON A TRIP TO THB JORDAN IN 1897. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 IN ASIA niNOR. 
 
 N the Levant, which is chiefly in Asia Minor and belongs to 
 Turkey, there are two cities which are of special interest to the 
 tourist. The first is Smyrna, the capital of Anatolia, the 
 tecond city of Turkey and the great port of Asia Minor and 
 the Levant trade. As you enter the bay, a noble inlet,, forty- 
 five by twenty-two miles, the city presents a most striking appearance, with its 
 two harbors, covering seventy acres; its fine breakwater, 1125 yards long; its 
 splendidly built quay, over two miles in length, which cost $1,500,000, and the 
 Governor's palace, the barracks, the imposing Vizier Khan, the numerous mosques, 
 the large warehouses and the well-built residences, holding a population of 270,000, 
 the bright picture having as its background the green slopes of the hills. 
 
 Smyrna is the centre of the caravan trade in Asia Minor; it is the great 
 market place for the whole Levant, and the merchants and traders who are 
 found on her streets represent every nation in the Orient. 
 
 Smyrna's Busy Scenes. 
 
 From my hotel window, that overlooks the busy scenes on the quay, by their 
 costumes I distinguished representatives of seventeen different nationalities. 
 Their facial expressions and features, their modes of salutation, their manner of 
 talking, walking, laughing and quarreling, and their peculiar ways of attracting 
 and convincing customers, were indeed a rich study which was greatly enjoyed. 
 
 The fruit-seller, the fish-cryer, the trinket peddler, the vegetable cartman, 
 the man with cooling drinks, the flower and match girls, the curio vender of the 
 Orient and the pug-nosed, bow-legged dogs rub up against one another with a 
 degree of intimacy that is more than touching. 
 
 After all, what is more interesting and instructive than a quiet study of a 
 mass of human beings, with a few dogs thrown in, provided you are out of reach ? 
 
 There are five or six Smyrnas, one over the other, and some of the excava- 
 tions that have been made while digging the foundations of houses and 
 cultivating the neighboring fields go to prove that this city, so admirably located, 
 was, in the far past, a place of great commercial and political importance. 
 
 It claims to be the birthplace of Homer, and here the distinguished Bishop 
 Polycarp was martyred in the year A. D. 169, whose tomb is pointed out. 
 
 (382) 
 
WITH KYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 383 
 
 The Byzantine Castle is on the site of tne Acropolis, on Mons Pagus, and 
 has in it many remains. Its corner nearest the city is Cyclopean, and the further 
 walls were built by Lysander. 
 
 The way to it leads past a cliff marked by three streaks of shells like flints, 
 and the road brings you past parts of aqueducts that were evidently built by the 
 Romans. 
 
 The antiquities of Smyrna are scattered, for the most part, two or three miles 
 apart on the site of the old Ionian town, where Homer is supposed to have been 
 born, up to Meles, in view of Mount Tmolus. 
 
 It was rebuilt in 627, B. C, and half ruined by Tamerlane A. D. 1402. 
 
 The whole district is very rich in archaic remains. From Smyrna, one of 
 the famous Seven Churches, five others are accessible by rail. 
 
 My chief concern in coming to Smyrna was to take a trip, from here inland to 
 see the country and people of this part of Asia Minor and visit the ruins of the 
 ancient city of Ephesus, which are found about one mile from the modern village 
 of Ayasoluk, at the foot of Mount Prion. 
 
 The Ruins of Ephesus. 
 
 Ephesus was the old capital of Ionia or I^ydia, birthplace of Diana, a sacred 
 city of both Pagans and Christians and a capital of the Saracenic Sultans. 
 
 It was located in a fine plain at the head of Port Panormus, on a surface 
 raised by deposits of the Caystrus or Cayster, was founded B. C. 1040, half 
 swallowed up by an earthquake about A. D. 17, and has been mostly in ruins 
 since the year 527. 
 
 To the Christians at this place St. Paul addressed his ' ' Epistle to the Ephes- 
 ians," and the old fort is shown where it is said he was imprisoned. 
 
 The ruins, consisting chiefly of broken columns, crumbling walls and 
 fragments of pavements, are spread over a wide district, and after visiting them 
 one is prepared to give credence to the supposition that before the Christian era 
 more than a million people inhabited the place. 
 
 Pagan and Christian Records. 
 
 You are possessed by strange feelings when you attempt to realize that you 
 are at the Cyclopean city of the Amazons, the refuge of Latona, the home of 
 Apollo and Diana, the place of the metamorphosis of Syrinx into a reed, the 
 lurking place of Pan, the asylum of Apollo on Mount Soimissus, the deathplace of 
 Orion, the panionium under Mount Mycale, the great gymnasium, the odeum, the 
 aqueduct, the magnificent Ephesus Theatre, 600 feet in length, and the marvelous 
 temple of Diana "of the Ephesians " — one of the seven wonders of the world, 
 built 552-352 B. C. 
 
(.384) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 385 
 
 Some of the columns from the temple are now in the mosque of St. Sophia, 
 at Constantinople. 
 
 An English excavator in 1876 found the remains twelve to twenty feet below 
 the surface to correspond with Pliny's account, the dimensions being 418 feet by 
 240 feet, with one hundred columns, 56 feet high and an elaborate cedar roof 
 
 Other names connected with Ephesus are Bacchus, Homer, Croesus, Artemisia, 
 Queen of Caria; Julian, the Emperor, and Tamerlane. 
 
 The famous Council of Ephesus was held here in 431 A. D. 
 
 To the Bible student the most interesting fact is that the Apostle Paul spent 
 
 three years here and taught in the school of Tyranus, the supposed ruins of which 
 
 are pointed out. 
 
 Turkish Tyranny. 
 
 It is impossible for the citizens of free America, who have never visited the 
 Ottoman empire, to imagine the corruption of the Turkish government. From 
 the most subordinate officer to the Sultan himself this official rottenness is 
 traceable; and how the thing has held together so long is a wonder of wonders. 
 
 As this terrible state of affairs is supposed to be kept in secrecy from the 
 outside world, and a man's head is at stake if he is caught speaking or writing on 
 the subject while in these regions, I have found no little difficulty, although I have 
 had the aid of a discreet native interpreter, to reach the reliable facts that are now 
 in my possession. 
 
 In the shop, on the farm and within the humble family circle, through my 
 
 assistant, I have interviewed a number of the inhabitants of this cursed land, and 
 
 everywhere the same sad story of governmental injustice, dishonesty and oppression 
 
 is heard. 
 
 Official Rottenness. 
 
 Here the seed of patriotism is crushed, if it ever exists at all; here the young 
 Turk, it matters not how noble may be his ambition in commercial, civic or 
 military life, has no opportunity for its expansion; here the farmer is yearly and 
 systematically robbed by the merciless agents of the government at Constantinople, 
 and here an official premium is put on any and every vice from which the Sultan 
 can possibly receive a revenue. 
 
 In the light of these facts it is not a matter of surprise that every influence 
 from without that has a tendency to reveal or improve the condition of the country 
 is indignantly opposed by the government, and that the basest deception is perpe- 
 trated to mislead the nations of the civilized world. 
 
 Book and Press Censorship. 
 
 No publication is allowed in the country that is not first carefully examined 
 ty agents of the Sultan. If a book is written, it matters not of what subject 
 
 25 
 
386 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvB 
 
 it treats, the original manuscript must be sent to Constantinople, and is closely- 
 read by a committee created for the purpose. Every word that is at all objection- 
 able is expunged. The revised manuscript is sent back after a copy is taken. At 
 the author's expense an edition of only two copies of the book is first published, 
 one of which is sent on to be compared with the copy which is retained, and if 
 there is the least variation the volume is not allowed to see the light of day. 
 
 Nothing can be published 
 which gives the people infor- 
 mation about the true gov- 
 ernment of the land, and no 
 word is printed about the do- 
 ings of other nations which 
 would have a tendency to give 
 rise to a comparison between 
 the way of doing things in the 
 Ottoman empire and else- 
 where. 
 
 When the president of the 
 French republic was assassi- 
 nated the order went out from 
 the Sultan that no such words 
 as corresponded to " assassi- 
 nate " or " murder ' ' should 
 be used in the report of the 
 event, but it should be circu- 
 lated that the president died 
 of a lingering disease. 
 
 I was in a Syrian village 
 last week when the news of 
 the murder of the Shah of 
 Persia reached the place. A 
 Mohammedan at the head of 
 a printing establishment told 
 me that the same deception 
 would be perpetrated by the press of the country. The Sultan, knowing his own 
 unpopularity, is not willing that his people should be educated in the art of easily 
 getting rid of a hated ruler. 
 
 Administrative System. 
 
 The large cities are ruled by pashas; the towns have over them governors, 
 and the villages have sheiks. 
 
 A TURKISH PASHA. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 387 
 
 A man receives and holds his appointment only because he pays for it more 
 money than any one else is willing or able to pay. The idea of efficiency does not 
 enter into the question at all. 
 
 A few weeks ago a man living near Damascus found out through a spy what 
 the governor of the place was paying to hold his office. He consulted with his 
 friends as to how much he could make out of the office, sent a higher offer to the 
 Sultan than the acting governor had made and was immediately installed. 
 
 This principle, or rather lack of principle, holds in reference to every office 
 under the government. Everything is for revenue only. 
 
 Oppressive Taxation. 
 
 The tax collecting system is one of the most wretchedly unjust in the world. 
 The whole thing is farmed out to the highest bidder. 
 
 The one who gets the position of tax collector for a district must necessarily 
 pay the government an exorbitant price for the privilege; the money is, in 
 nearly every case, borrowed to send in advance to Constantinople, and now, in 
 order to reimburse himself and make money, the collector goes to work on the 
 long-suffering citizens, and with the soldiers that are placed at his disposal the 
 most cruel extortion is enacted. 
 
 According to the written law (which is a snare and delusion) he is allowed 
 to collect one-tenth of the produce of a farm. On three farms I was shown how 
 eighty per cent of the whole crop went into the pockets of the collectors. 
 
 An old man, who owns an olive orchard, told me that he gave in a true report 
 of the yield of his place as ten barrels of oil. The legal tax would have been one 
 barrel of the stuff, but the collector reported the yield of the orchard as eighty 
 barrels of oil, taking one-tenth of this, leaving two barrels for the owner of the 
 orchard. 
 
 This instance may induce certain ward politicians in America to leave their 
 seemingly lucrative business and apply for a job under the gracious Sultan. 
 
 Justice witli a Vengeance. 
 
 To illustrate • how justice, so called, is administered, let me give a case in 
 point, the truth of which is vouched for by an American, who has lived in this 
 country for thirty-five years, and who is personally acquainted with characters 
 involved. A wealthy man by the name of Aly made accusation against his enemy 
 Jacob, and swore in court that he owed him 100,000 francs. For about six pence 
 each he bribed two witnesses to testify for him. 
 
 The accused was brought before the judge, and although he did not owe a 
 cent in the world he confessed judgment, but declared that his accuser owed him 
 200,000 francs, and that he was waiting patiently for a settlement. 
 
(388) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 389 
 
 Being asked to produce his witnesses, he started out to secure them, when 
 Aly requested the judge to send a guard along to prevent him bribing men to 
 testify in his behalf. The chief of police was sent with him. 
 
 Jacob, after walking about for some time, slipped a Turkish pound in the 
 chief's hand; the head of the police took him to his office, where two witnesses 
 were bribed for a few pennies; they returned to court, and, after secret consulta- 
 tion with the judge and testimony of new-bought witnesses, judgment was given 
 in favor of Jacob, who paid the 100,000 francs that he didn't owe to Aly, and 
 collected the 200,000 francs that Aly did not owe him. 
 
 This, verily, is justice with a vengeance. 
 
 The City of the Sultan. 
 
 Constantinople, or Stambool, the city of the Sultan, is located on the western 
 shore of the Thracian Bosphorus, in a situation equally remarkable for beauty and 
 security. 
 
 A gently declining promontory, secured by narrow seas, at the southeast cor- 
 ner of Europe, stretches out to meet the continent of Asia, from which it is 
 separated by so narrow a strait, the Bosphorus, that in fifteen minutes you can 
 row from one continent to the other. 
 
 This channel, running for about twenty miles from the Black Sea, looks like a 
 stately river until it sweeps by the angle of Constantinople and enters the Sea of 
 Marmora. But just before it is lost in that sea it makes a deep elbow between the 
 triangle of Constantinople proper and its foreign suburbs of Galata and Pera, 
 thus forming the port of the Golden Horn. 
 
 At this corner of Thrace the Megarian leader, Byzas, planted the city of 
 Byzantium about 660-70 B. C. It was taken by the Romans A. D. 73, and here 
 Constantine fixed the eastern seat of the Roman empire in 328-30, calling it Con- 
 stantinopolis, the city of Constantine, of which the Orientals make Stambool, from 
 the Greek es tan poll, or ' 'the city." "Room," or Rome, is also a popular name 
 for it to this day, and the province in which it stands is Roumeli, which name 
 appears in Roumania. 
 
 Godfrey de Bouillon was here in the first crusade — 1096-97 — in the reign of 
 Alexius Commenus. It was taken by the Venetians and Franks, led by ' ' Blind 
 Old Dandolo," and held till 1261, during which period the Greek emperors 
 reigned at Nicsea and Trebizond. Their rule terminated with its capture by the 
 Turks in 1453, under Mahomet II., after fifty -three days' siege. 
 
 Stambool, like its prototype, is said to have been built on seven hills, which 
 appear to rise above one another in beautiful succession, and was thirteen miles 
 in circumference. It is of great interest to study the many decaying and neglected 
 remains of Roman and mediaeval times which it contains. 
 
390 
 
 AROUND THE WORIyD 
 
 Life and Scenes. 
 
 The ridge of the first hill is occupied by the Seraglio, behind which a little 
 on the reverse of the hill the imposing dome of the Santa Sophia can be seen. 
 This was the site of the first city of Byzantium. 
 
 Four of the hills are covered with magnificent mosques, whose domes are 
 strikingly bold and lofty. 
 
 The city proper, occupying the triangle between the Golden Horn and the 
 
 Sea of Marmora, is partly sur- 
 rounded by the remains of 
 decaying walls, which are fast 
 disappearing. 
 
 Galata, founded by the 
 Genoese in 1216, on the north 
 side of the Golden Horn, is 
 joined to the main city by 
 an iron bridge, and is the 
 chief business quarter for 
 European merchants, who, 
 strangely enough, go under 
 the general name of Franks. 
 
 A steep street leads up to 
 Pera, which stretches two 
 miles along a hill, and is the 
 residence of diplomatic corps 
 from the different nations of 
 Europe, where each has a fine 
 palace. The tremendous con- 
 flagration of 1870 swept away a 
 great part of Pera, destroying 
 6000 houses, including the 
 British embassy. 
 
 The Town of Scutari. 
 
 Scutari is a mile and a 
 half across the Bosphorus from Galata, and is mostly inhabited by Turks, Greeks 
 and Armenians. Here are located the Sultan Selim barracks, used as the English 
 military hospital during the Crimean war, and which are specially noted as the 
 scene of Miss Nightingale's heroic and memorable labors. In the adjacent ceme- 
 tery are buried 8000 English soldiers, victims of that terrible struggle. 
 
 TURKISH WOMAN. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 391 
 
 From the hill of Bulgaria, overlooking the column of Marochetti in the 
 military cemetery, a splendid panorama of Constantinople is had, taking in the 
 Black Sea, Therapia and Buyukdere on the Bosphorus, the castles of Europe and 
 Asia, near the water, and the Golden Horn. On this hill, where ancient Chryso- 
 polis was located, Constantine defeated his enemy and rival, I^icinius, A. D. 325, 
 and not far from this place of victory the great conqueror was conquered by his 
 last enemy. 
 
 On entering the city the visitor is first attracted by the wilderness of mosques 
 and minarets. Within the walls there are sixteen imperial mosques, 1 50 ordinary 
 
 ljrXirr-rT^_i<W^^>»^;;2i^ 
 
 J/.„«^=w 
 
 :;^1^ ^f""'* :. - i^tllni Fill ill 
 
 the; sultan's palace of dolma-bagtche, Constantinople. 
 
 ones and 200 mesjids, the last of which are only distinguished as being places of 
 worship by having little minarets or towers contiguous to them. 
 
 The Mosque of St. Sophia. 
 
 I shall speak of only one of these mosques, which is the most wonderful 
 building of its kind in the world. St. Sophia was dedicated A. D. 360 to Agia 
 Sophia, "Holy Wisdom," by Constantine II., the son of Constantine the Great, 
 and was rebuilt by Justinian, 532-48, in the shape of a Greek •cro.ss. 
 
 Among the numerous pillars brought from all parts of the empire are some 
 from Delos and Baalbec; six of green jasper from the Temple of Diana at 
 Ephesus, and eight of porphyry, which had been placed by Aurelian in the 
 Temple of the Sun at Rome and were removed here by Constantine. 
 
392 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 It is an immense marble basilica, 270 by 245 feet, with sixteen bronze gates, 
 and a stupendous dome, 115 feet across, adorned with mosaic work. It is illumi- 
 
 PEASANT VII,I,AGE GIRLS OF ROUMANIA. 
 
 Dated with globes of crystal and lamps of colored glass at the, Ramadan, and 
 ornamented with ostrich eggs and flags. 
 
 On Fridaj'S you can count the worshipers by the thousands, and from the 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 393 
 
 great galleries you are allowed to watch the congregation of believers at prayers, 
 with their faces turned toward Mecca. 
 
 Every mosque has, in general, a large area in front, surrounded by a lofty 
 colonnade of marble, with gates of wrought brass, and in the centre a fountain of 
 polished marble. 
 
 Curious Sepulchral Chapels. 
 
 Adjoining each is the sepulchral chapel of its founder. Some of these tombs, 
 in which the sultans, viziers and other great personages repose, are exceedingly 
 handsome; others in their workmanship, defy all laws of art and display a 
 decided genius on the part of the builders for making what is supposed to be very 
 solemn exceedingly laughable. 
 
 lyooking through the grated windows you see the coflSns, surmounted by 
 shawls and turbans, and slightly elevated from the floor, with lamps continually 
 burning and immense wax torches, which are lighted on particular occasions. 
 
 The slender and graceful minarets form one of the pleasing features in the 
 architecture of Constantinople, and two, four or even six of these are connected 
 with some of the mosques. Near the summit there is a little gallery, from which, 
 at the five appointed times in the twenty-four hours, the Muezzin calls the 
 Mohammedans to prayer. 
 
 A fountain, with its marble front, elaborate arabesque ornaments and Chinese- 
 like roof, .stands by every mosque, for before a Turk prostrates himself in prayer 
 he must perform his ablutions. The supply for these many fountains in the city 
 is brought from artificial lakes in the forest, about twelve miles from the city, by 
 means of subterranean aqueducts and hydraulic pyramids, contrived so as to 
 overcome the inequalities of surface. 
 
 The Bazaars and Their Crowds. 
 
 The bazaars, where you see the people acting naturally, are much more inter- 
 esting than the mosques. The former consist of lofty cloisters or corridors, built 
 of stone and lighted by domes, which, during the hot hours of the day, afford a 
 pleasant retreat. 
 
 The Grand Bazaar, called Bezesteen, is a hive of small shops walled in with 
 thirty-two gates, and here, as nowhere else in Constantinople or perhaps in the 
 world (with the exception of Cairo), can you see displayed the brilliant, ever- 
 changing picture of oriental life to such perfection. 
 
 A world in miniature is continually moving to and fro. In the bewildering 
 multitude of nationalities you get a glimpse at the Albanian, with his tasseled 
 cap, white, short skirts, flashing scarf, buckskin leggings and bright rosettes on 
 his toes; the swaggering Turk, looking little like he was a member of a corrupt 
 
(394) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 395 
 
 and bankrupt nation, with his turban and flowing robes, or pufiing a cigarette 
 under a jockey red fez and over ill-fitting European vest and trousers; comical- 
 looking women, waddling along in formless sacks for dresses, their faces hidden 
 lest some one should be stricken by their bashful loveliness, and an army of 
 soldiers, beggars, priests, patriarchs — each one a drop in the rushing, rolling, 
 rumbling stream of humanity. 
 
 It matters little how interesting may be the palatial residences and busy 
 streets of a great city, when the brain is tired reflecting upon the manners and 
 methods of man, it is joyful and restful to hie away from these scenes,, and find 
 repose in some rural place, at the foot of a noble mountain or by the side of a 
 leaping, laughing, limpid stream, or on the banks of a beautiful bay. 
 
 Taking a steamer across the Bosphorus (so called after lo, who swam over it 
 in the shape of a heifer), you soon reach a pretty spot beyond a little village on 
 the Asiatic side at the bend of the water. Here you have at once the mountain, 
 the brooklet and the bay. From the summit of the Giant's Hill there is a strik- 
 ing view of the shores of several seas and the nearby united lands of two conti- 
 nents. 
 
 As this picturesque panorama spread before him the poetic soul of Byron 
 went forth in the exclamation: " 'Tis a grand sight, from off the Giant's Grave, 
 to watch the progress of those rolling seas, between the Bosphorus, as they lash 
 and lave Europe and Asia." 
 
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 ARMENIAN FUGITIVES ON THE TURKO-PERSIAN BORDER. 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 A REIQN OF TERROR. 
 
 despair of being able to give any adequate impression of the ter- 
 rible condition of affairs in Armenia. 
 
 One must be on Turkish soil and hear for himself the heart- 
 rending tales of torture and torment to have any just conception 
 of the scenes that have been enacted, and the fearful ordeal through 
 which hundreds of thousands of Armenians are now passing. 
 
 It Tnow openly confessed by certain Mohammedans that the systematic 
 massacres that went on from village to village was simply the prosecution of a plan 
 well understood by the Turks to exterminate all native Christians m Armenia and 
 Uis generally believed that the Sultan ordered these massacres, those who led the 
 bloodthirsty business being under his appointment 
 
 I went as near the town of Oorfa as I was allowed to go, and from the most 
 reliable sources I have positive proof of Ottoman persecutions more dia- 
 bolical than any reports that have come to us through the American or English 
 
 " The Massacre at Oorfa. 
 
 So far as magnitude is concerned Oorfa heads the list with ^ly 3500 victims 
 in the last massacre alone. The number sacrified in the great church, where they 
 had fled for safety, is now ascertained to be about 4000, and m the streets and 
 suburbs of the village nearly the same number of bodies were found cut and 
 
 "^^tt^vlntTllit'-if special honorable recognition by his Majesty the Imperial 
 Sultan is to be bestowed upon those of his loyal warriors who have earned out he 
 fask assigned them on the grandest and the most satanic scale, his Oorfa legion 
 will come in for the highest awards. . 
 
 A private letter from a missionary who is at present m Oorfa, that is before 
 me atl write explains what has hitherto been a mere conjecture--namely as to 
 how the TSish'soldiers succeeded in burning these 4000 -ctims m the churchy 
 
 This missionary, who has made careful investigation on the spot, explains 
 that a gairy extend around three sides of this church, and from here a great 
 iantitTof petrols was poured upon these defenceless men, women and 
 children, who were jammed together on the floor below. 
 
 (396) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 397 
 
 Numbers of them had been butchered before this was done, and the fifty or 
 sixty who escaped to the roof were overtaken and tossed into the flames. 
 
 It seems that after the petroleum had been poured down upon them from the 
 galleries, lighted torches were thrown among them. Is it possible to conceive of 
 anything more diabolical ? 
 
 Among those who thus perished were aged men and women , mothers with 
 babies at their breasts, ill persons just taken from their beds and hundreds of boys 
 and girls. 
 
 The church building where this occurred, which has been used for many years 
 as a place of worship by the Armenians, has been converted by these murderous 
 
 ^^^''■-^•■^vv: -:- 
 
 R3CENT1,Y MADE ARMENIAN GRAVES IN THB SUBURB OF VAN. 
 
 Turks into a Mohammedan mosque, where prayers are now daily offered to the 
 prophet Mahomet. 
 
 The Victims at Biredjik. 
 
 The massacre at Biredjik, only a few miles from Oorfa, is hardly less 
 revolting. The facts below are given by a Christian citizen of the place, which 
 were received by me last night. 
 
 The Christian population of Biredjik consisted of about two hundred houses. 
 For some months the Christians had been kept almost wholly within their houses 
 from fear. 
 
398 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 One morning', about two hours after sunrise, a massacre began without any 
 apparent cause and continued until far into the night. The Turkish soldiers and 
 Mohammedans in the city generally participated in it. 
 
 At first the principal object seemed to be plunder, but later on the soldiers 
 undertook the work of systematic killing, and profession of Islam or death was 
 the alternative of all those who named the name of Christ. 
 
 Many of the victims were dragged to the river Euphrates, and with stones 
 tied to them, were drowned. In some cases several bodies were found tied 
 together and thus thrown into the river. 
 
 One young man was caught, a rope put around his neck, and while he was 
 being dragged to the Euphrates he succeeded in freeing himself three times, but 
 finally, after being tortured in a nameless manner, he was overpowered, and amid 
 the shouts of the demons he was tossed into his watery grave. 
 
 Islam or the Sword. 
 
 Every house belonging to a Christian in the village was plundered, except 
 two, which were saved by Moslem neighbors, who claimed them as their property. 
 
 Christian girls were eagerly sought after, and much dispute and quarreling 
 occurred in dividing them among the captors. If they refused immediately to 
 marry young men of the Mohammedan faith they were tortured into obedience or 
 cast into harems. 
 
 There is not a single Christian remaining in Biredjik. Scores of men and 
 women were brought forward, ofiered protection if they would embrace the Islam 
 religion, and those who refused (and :iearly all of them did refuse) were put to 
 ■death after lingering persecution. 
 
 As the Turks doubted the sincerity of the new converts they arranged a new 
 massacre, which was only averted by the new converts promising to change the 
 Armenian churches into mosques. 
 
 They are now at work making the required alterations in the buildings. The 
 Protestant church will be turned into a Moslem schoolhouse if the missionaries do 
 not claim it as Armenian property. 
 
 The misery and suffering among the plundered cannot be described. 
 
 Lady Teachers Captured. 
 
 The wife (a recent graduate of the American Girls' College at Marash) and 
 child of the Protestant preacher (who is imprisoned at Oorfa) and two young lady 
 teachers, with some twenty other persons, hid themselves in a cave, but were 
 discovered and seized by the Turkish mob. All the men and boys were killed 
 and the women and children carried off to the Moslem houses. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 399 
 
 The women were dragged by the hair and badly beaten, but being unable to 
 compel them even in this way to go with therfi, the Turks carried them on their 
 Jbacks. 
 
 They tried to kill the babp of the pastor's wife, but she pressed it so closely 
 
 MOHAMMEDAN WOMEN. 
 
 to her bosom that at last they desisted, as they feared she would be harmed, and 
 she was wanted for their harem. For more than three weeks every effort was made, 
 including threats of death, to make these three women (the pastor's wife and 
 
400 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 the two lady teacliers of the mission) to profess Islam, but they steadfastly 
 refused. Wedding preparations were being made for these women, who were to 
 be forced to marry Mohammedans, when the district governor received an order 
 from Aleppo commanding them to be sent, under guard, to the missionaries in 
 Aintab, which changed their fate. 
 
 Distress and Work of Relief. 
 
 The news from Marash was of the most distressing nature. Nearly ten 
 thousand were receiving daily help from the missionaries, and there was every 
 indication at that time this number must be greatly increased in the near future 
 if the funds at the disposal of the missionaries permitted of it. 
 
 One who was appointed to visit the district and distribute funds, referring to 
 the condition of affairs, exclaimed: " This region has been one vast flaming hell." 
 
 In Van between 15,000 and 20,000 are dependent upon the relief work that is 
 carried on through the agency of the missionaries. 
 
 A letter from there, that is lying before me, says: " I am sure that all who 
 have interested themselves in raising funds would feel abundantly repaid for their 
 trouble and self-sacrifice if they could see the misery their money is relieving. 
 We are at present spending at the rate of a thousand dollars per week, and I am 
 confident that another thousand could be spent in the same way of relieving only 
 the most distressing need, and that, too, in a meagre enough fashion. 
 
 " Hundreds of refugees are living in cold, damp places on earth floors, with 
 absolutely no bedding, very little, in some cases, no fuel, and with nothing to eat 
 save the dry bread we gave them. 
 
 ' ' Since last winter the bazaars have been closed, hence everybody in the city 
 is out of employment, while life in the villages is, for the most part, well nigh or 
 absolutely impossible. ' ' 
 
 The Turkish officials watched carefully every effort to distribute money and 
 provisions among these wretched victims of their cruelty, and they have been 
 known repeatedly to force the widows and orphans of those whom they murdered 
 to give up funds that came to them to provide against starvation. 
 
 WIio Are the Armenians ? 
 
 If we accept Armenian histories, the first ruler of the Armenians was Haik, 
 the son of Togarmah, the son of Gomer, the son of Japheth, the son of Noah, 
 and it is interesting to note that they, even to this day, call themselves Haik, 
 their language " Haiaren " and their country " Haiasdan." 
 
 The word ' ' Armenian ' ' was given them by other nations because of the 
 bravery of one of their kings, Aram, the seventh ruler from Haik. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 401 
 
 Until A. D. 1375 they were a proud and independent nation, but since the 
 latter quarter of the fourteenth century their country has been under the govern- 
 ments of Russia, Persia, and during the most of the time, under Turkey. 
 
 During the period from 600 B. C. to nearly 400 A. D. , the time of their 
 greatest advancement, they showed remarkable prowess in the wars of the 
 Assyrians, Medes, Persians, Greeks and Romans. 
 
 From the incomplete government returns it is estimated that, at present, 
 there are between two and a half and three millions of Armenians in Turkey, and 
 these are everywhere surrounded by Turks and Kurds, many of whom are armed 
 
 ARMENIAN SCHOOI,. 
 
 by the government, while the Armenians are forbidden to carry or possess arms 
 under the severest penalties. 
 
 Their Religion and Clergy. 
 
 In the third century, under the influence of Gregory the Illuminator, the 
 Armenians as a nation became Christian, and this was the first time in the history 
 of the world that Christianity was adopted as a national religion. 
 
 By the outsiders their church was then called "Gregorian," and afterward 
 the Gregorians and Greeks worked in a fraternal spirit in the great councils of the 
 church until 451, but at the fourth Ecumenical Council, which met at Chalcedon 
 
 25 
 
402 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 that year, the Gregorian Church separated from the Greek upon the Monophysite 
 doctrine, the former accepting and the latter rejecting it. 
 
 There are nine grades of Armenian clergy. The spiritual head is a Catholicos, 
 but in addition to him there is a patriarch, whose duties have largely to do with 
 the political side of the national life as related to the Ottoman government. 
 
 In the fifth century the Bible was translated into their language; but the book 
 has largely been a sealed one so far as the people are concerned. 
 
 For more than a thousand years the Armenians have been subject to the 
 bitterest persecutions, and during these centuries they have willingly chosen 
 death, with terrible torture, rather than prove false to their faith. 
 
 Culture and Education. 
 
 As is pointed out by a recent writer, and generally admitted to be true, the 
 strong tendency to disagree among themselves has greatly weakened their national 
 character, and the wily Turks have repeatedly taken advantage of their suspicions 
 of each other and their internal rivalries by playing one party off against 
 another. There can be no question but that the Armenians are the most intelligent 
 of all the people of Eastern Turkey, and in Western Turkey their only rivals are 
 the Greeks. For more than a score of years Armenian young men have attained 
 high scholarship in the universities of Europe and America, and the eager desire 
 among the people for a liberal education is very marked. 
 
 It is worthy of note, especially in this part of the world, that this people give 
 special encouragement to female education, and it was my pleasure to address a 
 college of two hundred and fifty Armenian girls in Smyrna, where there was every 
 indication of culture and refinement. 
 
 Traders and Farmers. 
 
 The Armenian is the trader and banker of this part of the world. The 
 Mohammedan is no match for him, and this is where the rub lies. 
 
 An impartial judge, who is neither a Christian nor a Mohammedan, informed 
 me in an interview yesterday that if you put five Armenian shopkeepers and ten 
 Mohammedan shopkeepers on the same street, in a short while, provided both are 
 granted the same privileges, the former will control the whole business from one 
 end of the street to the other. 
 
 Although the Turkish government has imposed upon them the most unjust 
 laws and excessive taxes, they have kept well to the front, and until these perse- 
 cutions and massacres commenced some of the leading business operations of the 
 country were in their hands. 
 
 They are also the leading artisans and farmers. I have the statement from a 
 reliable source that twenty-five years ago in certain large sections the land was 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 403 
 
 owned almost entirely by Moslems, but rented and farmed by the Armenians, but 
 lack of industry on the part of the Mohammedans have led them to sell many of 
 their large estates to the Armenians, many of whom became proprietor farmers. 
 
 A Turkish governor is quoted as saying that if the Armenians should 
 suddenly emigrate or be expelled from Eastern Turkey the Moslem would 
 necessarily follow soon, as there was not enough commercial enterprise and 
 
 ability coupled with industry 
 in the Turkish population to 
 meet the absolute needs of the 
 people. 
 
 Home and Family. 
 
 While at one time in their 
 history they gained distinc- 
 tion as warriors, they seem at 
 present to be domestic in their 
 thought and habits, and, ap- 
 parently, they are possessed 
 with little military ambition 
 or desire to rule. 
 
 I have had the privilege 
 of seeing something of their 
 home life, and seldom have I 
 seen sweeter pictures of do- 
 mestic life than were wit- 
 nessed in their quiet family 
 circles. 
 
 The home life is patri- 
 archal, the father ruling the 
 
 household as long as he lives, and at his death the eldest son takes his place at 
 
 the head of the family. 
 
 Children have the highest respect for their parents, sons and daughters never 
 
 become too old to seek the counsel and obey the word of fa,thers and mothers, and 
 
 special respect is given to the aged. 
 
 An Unmixed Race. 
 
 In the eloquent words of another, here we have a race old in national history 
 when Alexander invaded the East, and with its star of empire turning toward 
 decline when the Caesars were at the height of their power; a nation not mingling 
 in marriage with men and women of another faith and blood, now as pure in its 
 
 TURKISH SOCIETY WOMAN. 
 
404 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 descent from the undiscovered ancestors of nearly three decades of centuries ago 
 as the Hebrews stand unmixed with Gentile blood; with a language, a literature, 
 a national church distinctively its own, and yet a nation without a country, without 
 a government, without a protector or friend in all God's world. 
 
 This is not because it has sinned, but because it has been terribly sinned 
 against; not because of its intellectual or moral or physical weakness, but because 
 it has little to offer in return for the service which the common brotherhood of man 
 among nations should prompt the Christian nations of the world to render. 
 
 In all of her varied history I suppose that the sky over the national life of 
 Armenia was never as starless as it is to-day. The great powers on the European 
 continent turn deaf ears to her cries, some of them apparently giving indirect 
 endorsement to^ the rotten rule, satanic cruelty and murderous madness of the 
 Moslem Sultan; and if substantial aid is rendered in putting bread in the mouths 
 of these widowed, orphaned and plundered thousands, and in creating a world- 
 wide sentiment in their favor, it must come from that country which is to-day the 
 hope of the world and the inspiration of mankind— generous , liberty -loving 
 America. 
 
 Armenia's Plight. 
 
 In view of the widespread sympathy that is now being manifested in both 
 England and America for this practically enslaved and downtrodden race in the 
 overwhelming calamities that have so recently befallen them, it may be reasonably 
 supposed that the governments and peoples of these two countries are inter- 
 ested in the asking and answering of the question, " What is to become of the 
 Armenians ? ' ' 
 
 Whether we regard this question as referring to a choice between Islam and 
 the sword on the one hand, or to a choice between a continued struggle for exist- 
 ence under Moslem oppression and extortion, with the constant additional dread 
 of torture and massacre and complete emancipation in some form or the other, 
 it is a question which forces itself upon the Christian world to-day for solution. 
 If we are to judge by the attitude of the great powers of Christendom toward 
 the Armenians in their indescribable sufferings during the past months, England 
 and America are the only two nations that choose to concern themselves with the 
 present or ultimate fate of these people. It is for this reason that the arms of the 
 Armenians are to-day outstretched toward Anglo-Saxon Christendom for help 
 and deliverance. 
 
 Attitude of tlie Powers. 
 
 To those who know the situation as it stands here to-day in Asiatic Turkey 
 the future holds not a single ray of hope for any permanent betterment of condi- 
 tion of the Armenians so long as the Ottoman empire holds together, and the 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 405 
 
 apparent determination of the European powers that it shall not go to pieces so 
 long as they can agree together to bolster it up, leaves but little prospect of relief 
 from that source. The utter inability of these same powers to afford them any 
 protection while they remain subjects of the Turkish government, and scattered 
 as they are to-day in every corner of the empire, has been so painfully demon- 
 strated during the past months that no hope of help or protection can ever be 
 reasonably expected in the future from Christian Europe. It has also been just 
 
 A GROUP OF ARMENIAN ORPHAN BOYS OF C^ESAREA AND TABAS. 
 
 as fully demonstrated that some, at least, of the European governments are abso- 
 lutely determined that no part or parcel of the empire shall be assigned to them 
 where they would enjoy any measure of independence or opportunity to work out 
 their own legitimate destiny. In a word, it has now become not only perfectly 
 evident that the Sultan is to be allowed to work out his own will toward his 
 Armenian subjects with impunity, so far, at least, as European interference is 
 concerned, but it is also equally evident that it is the will of his Majesty to give. 
 
4o6 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 them over to every form of cruel oppression and diabolical torture and outrage 
 which his fanatical and inhuman followers may choose to devise and inflict ixpon 
 them. This, then, is the answer to our question, "What is to become of the 
 Armenians?" so long, at least, as they remain the subjects of his Imperial 
 Majesty Abdul Hamid II. The history of the past is to be the history 
 of the future. The only possible hope of even temporary amelioration is that 
 which a change of rulers might bring. But even a change of rulers or a change 
 to a more responsible form of government will not alter the attitude and spirit of 
 Islam toward a subject Christian race. 
 
 " Christian Herald " Work. 
 
 The noble and extensive relief work which has been carried on with the funds 
 sent from England and America prevented much suffering and saved many lives. 
 Through the activity of Dr. Klopsch, proprietor of the Christian Herald, a great 
 Relief Depot was established at Van under Dr. Grace Kimball, American Mis- 
 sionary; and there is at present in Oorfa a large number of Armenian orphans, 
 under Miss Corinna Shattuck, supported by Christia7i Herald contributions. No 
 less than $60,000 has been raised by Dr. Klopsch through his journal from sympa- 
 thetic American readers for this persecuted people, which was distributed by 
 American missionaries at seventeen different stations. 
 
 A Colonization Scheme. 
 
 Every instinct of true manliness and Christian sympathy rises against the 
 thought of abandoning the Armenians to the inevitable fate that awaits them as 
 subjects of the Turkish empire. God has other and higher purposes for them to 
 serve as benefactors of our race, and shall we not seek to open to them the oppor- 
 tunities which will afford them deliverance from their present bondage and scope 
 for enlarged activity and usefulness ? 
 
 The very suggestion of colonization raises at once a number of questions of 
 primary and essential significance, and among these: Colonize where ? Do they 
 wish to emigrate ? Will the Turkish authorities permit them to leave the country ? 
 Would such a scheme be practicable ? Do they possess the qualities essential to 
 successful colonization, such as the power of adaptation to new surroundings and 
 conditions ? Are they desirable neighbors ? etc. , etc. In the space of the present 
 chapter it will not be possible to discuss each of these questions separately and in 
 detail. In answer to the question, "Where?" I answer unhesitatingly, to the 
 United States and Canada. In view of the sympathy shown by the American and 
 English governments and the generous response of the people of these two nations 
 to the appeals for relief, it may be taken for granted that every facility would be 
 offered for colonizing portions of the western territories and provinces of the 
 
WITH EYKS WIDE OPEN. 407 
 
 United States and Canada with these people, and that they would receive welcome 
 to our hospitable shores. 
 
 ' ' Do they wish to emigrate ? ' ' Let the thousands who have been imprisoned 
 for attempting to emigrate answer this question. 
 
 Will the Sultan Allow It ? 
 
 ' ' Will the Turkish government permit them to leave the country ? ' ' 
 Although the Turkish government has persisted in representing the Armenians 
 as the only disturbing element to the peace and prosperity of the empire, and as 
 being the constant objects of Turkish pity, compassion and toleration, it is a 
 strange fact that laws have been made prohibiting them, on pain of severe 
 penalties, from leaving the country. These laws for some years past have been 
 rigorously enforced, though in spite of this some have escaped from this forced 
 imprisonment by bribing port officials. Now, however, I learn the government 
 has suddenly adopted a different policy and is readily giving passports to 
 Armenians who wish to emigrate. This fact would much facilitate any scheme for 
 colonization which might now be undertaken. Even should the government again 
 attempt to prevent the emigration of the Armenians surely even those powers 
 which are most fearful of disturbing the status quo of the ' ' Eastern Question ' ' 
 could be trusted at least to use their authority to compel the Sultan to refrain from 
 an attempt to prevent any scheme for the emigration and colonizing of the 
 Armenians. 
 
 Would It Be Practicable ? 
 
 Would a scheme for colonization be practicable ? Of course, in the present 
 impoverished state of a large portion of the Armenians in the interior provinces, 
 any scheme for successful colonization would require the sanction and at least 
 partial support of the American and British governments. The people of these 
 two countries could also be trusted to respond promptly and generously to an 
 appeal to carry out any such scheme of practical and permanent relief for those 
 they are now supplying with daily bread and raiment. Government grants of land 
 or special facilities for easy purchase would of necessity become a factor in any 
 such scheme. A very large proportion, however, of Armenians would undertake 
 to emigrate on their own charges and would at once form a self-dependent element 
 in each colony or community. I have every confidence in the practicability of 
 colonization if taken up in an earnest, determined spirit. 
 
 But it maybe asked. Would the Armenians make good colonists and are they 
 desirable neighbors ? English and American missionaries and others who have 
 lived among the Armenians and who have had the best of facilities for studying their 
 national characteristics are accustomed to designate them the ' 'Anglo-Saxons ' ' or 
 
4o8 
 
 AROUND THB WORIvD. 
 
 "Yankees" of the Orient. It is unquestionable that they possess some of the 
 characteristics which distinguish the Anglo-Saxon race. They are a hardy, 
 energetic, intelligent and progressive people, and with the favorable environment 
 of our free Western institutions and civilization, and under the authority of 
 capable and responsible governments, they would unquestionably become an 
 important and stable factor in our Western life and progress. They are a peaceful, 
 law-abiding race, devoted to agricultural and commercial pursuits. They possess 
 
 also the faculty of becoming skilled 
 artisans, and are both capable and 
 eager for intellectual advancement. 
 They wish to live at peace with their 
 neighbors and would most assuredly 
 prove themselves not only good neigh- 
 bors, but also loyal, devoted citizens 
 of our responsible governments. 
 
 Going to Cyprus. 
 
 An effort is now being quietly put 
 forward by certain influential English- 
 men to transport the thousands of 
 widows and orphans in Armenia to the 
 Island of Cyprus, where they would be 
 granted land and helped to at least 
 partly support themselves. Difficulties 
 that were expected have arisen, but 
 these are supposed not to be insur- 
 mountable. Hundreds of men have 
 secretly escaped the country, but the 
 shores are all patroled; no Armenian 
 is allowed to go from one village to 
 another without giving a full account 
 of his movements and without secur- 
 ing bond for his return in a certain number of days; every road in Armenia is 
 guarded by brutal Turkish soldiers, who shoot down Armenians on the least pre- 
 text; and we may depend upon it that this wretched state of affairs will continue 
 to exist until some strong national voice is raised, and, if necessary, some strong 
 national arm is stretched forward in defence of a down-trodden race that has on 
 its neck an iron heel and over its prostrate body the flashing sword of a heartless 
 tyrant. 
 
 AN ARMENIAN HOME. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 409 
 
 nissions in Turkey. 
 
 It is generally thought in these parts that the conduct of the Turkish 
 government in regard to the American missionaries is an attempt to see how- 
 Europe would regard any measure taken for the expulsion of Christian mission- 
 aries generally. The result can hardly be satisfactory to the Tui^. 
 
 The Roman Catholic missionaries are fully alive to the meaning of the 
 experiment and the activity of Monsieur Cambon shows that France intends to 
 claim the full rights of French citizens, whether clericals or not. 
 
 For many months an attempt was made to distinguish in the massacres 
 between the Armenians of the national church and the Catholic Armenians, that 
 is, those who are in union with Rome, but this distinction could not be observed 
 in Armenia itself. A Moslem ruffian at Trebizond exclaimed: " Are they not 
 all Giaours (infidels) alike ? " And no satisfactory answer could be given him. 
 
 Foreign Hission Work. 
 
 This attempted distinction did not deceive the foreign Catholic missionaries, 
 and their silence was not to be purchased by securing the safety of their own 
 flocks. In many places they have done their best for the Christian population, 
 whether they were in communion directly with Rome or not. 
 
 It must not be forgotten that the Christian population of Asia Minor and 
 Syria had sunk into a condition of ignorance which is not remarkable, in view of 
 the repeated and periodical massacres and plundering. 
 
 It is quite true that the Mekitarist congregations of Armenians in Vienna and 
 Venice, established by men who escaped from Turkey, have accomplished a noble 
 work, which has called forth congratulatory words from both Mr. Gladstone and 
 Mr. Ruskin. But it has mainly been for the education of Armenian priests and 
 did not affect the mass of the laity. 
 
 The American Board of Missions, some fifty or sixty years ago, set itself to 
 remove this ignorance. As America could not possibly have any political ends 
 to serve by sending missionaries into the country, there seems to have come about 
 an understanding and arrangement with English and German missionary 
 societies by which it was agreed that the Turkish mission field should be left 
 almost exclusively to Americans. 
 
 American Institutions. 
 
 Whatever might be said of England, no one would believe that America 
 coveted an inch of Turkish territory. American missionaries, as every one 
 admits, have worked solely for philanthropic, educational and religious ends. 
 
 The American missions have colleges at Kharpoot, Marsovan, Bey rout and 
 Aintab. They have splendid colleges for girls at Smyrna, Scutari — on the 
 
4IO 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Bosphorus — and in Stambool. They have hospitals at Aintab, Mardin and 
 Csesarea. They have boys' and girls' schools at such centres as Broussa, Adana, 
 Trebizond, Sivas, Mosul, Van and other places, and until a few years ago 
 wherever an educated Armenian was met he had in all likelihood been educated 
 at one of these missionary schools. 
 
 Robert College. 
 
 I spent a pleasant evening at Robert College, nine miles from Constantinople, 
 
 on the Bosphorus. 
 
 This college was founded thirty-three years ago by Mr. Robert, a New York 
 
 merchant, and is to-day one 
 of the greatest powers for good 
 in all Asia Minor. 
 
 It owns magnificent prop- 
 erty under imperial charter; 
 has all the equipments of a 
 well-furnished American col- 
 lege; has in its classes 350 boys 
 and young men from different 
 portions of Turkey, Syria, 
 Palestine, Bulgaria, Roumelia 
 and Greece, and its distin- 
 guished American president, 
 Dr. Washburn, and his as- 
 sistants are doing much for the 
 rising generation of this part 
 of the world. 
 
 Some years ago a good 
 deal of opposition was encoun- 
 tered by the missionaries, on 
 the ground that their object 
 
 was to establish rival churches and to obtain proselytes from the Armenian 
 
 Church. Such opposition has long since been overcome by the sturdy common 
 
 sense of the missionaries. 
 
 Light for Asia. 
 
 One hundred and fifty American missionaries, many of whom are highly 
 educated, are now centers of light throughout Asia Minor and Syria; their 
 influence would do honor to any civilized government and they are everywhere 
 respected and trusted by the population, Turkish as well as Christian, and by the 
 foreign consuls of every part of Asia. 
 
 DECORATED BY THE SULTAN. 
 
WITH EYKS WIDE OPEN. 411 
 
 Many of these are qualified medical men, and the value of their medical 
 services meets with unbounded appreciation in districts where no doctors are to be 
 found. 
 
 Although they take no part in politics, their instincts are, of course, against 
 anything in the nature of rebellion, and so careful are they not to become com- 
 plicated in the present political Condition of affairs that Mr. Greene had to abandon 
 all connection with the mission board before he published his volume of evidence 
 on the Armenian wrongs. 
 
 Taking in consideration these facts it may be asked: "Why should the 
 Turkish government wish to get rid of missionaries, Protestant and Catholic 
 alike?" 
 
 No Conversions Possible. 
 
 There is no question of converting Mohammedans to any form of Christian 
 faith, for the penalty of such conversion is immediate death, and neither Cath- 
 olics nor Protestants make any efforts in this direction. 
 
 The reason must be sought in another direction. 
 
 The influence of the missions and missionaries have a tendency to elevate 
 the tone of morality among the various Christian populations, and the education 
 they have given has enabled thousands to become comparatively prosperous. 
 
 As in the case of Bulgaria, a score of years ago, the prosperity of the Chris- 
 tian portion of the community aroused the envy of those who belonged to the 
 ruling class and creed, so instinctively, the Turk recognizes that the education 
 given by these foreign ' ' infidels' ' places the Christians at an advantage in trade 
 and even in agriculture. 
 
 There are, indeed, a number of cases, both in the provinces and in the capital, 
 where boys and girls have secretly been sent by their Moslem parents to mission 
 schools to obtain secular education, but this is always attended by grave dangers, 
 and just now Mohammedan authorities are more watchful than ever. 
 
 It is also felt and admitted by the agents of the Sultan's government that 
 these missions, with their schools and colleges, their hospitals, their medical men 
 and trained nurses, are the symbols of the advance of a civilization along western 
 lines, and as progress in this direction is the sure death-knell to the corruption 
 and tyranny of Mohammedanism, the thought of it is the waving of a blood-red 
 flag before the bellowing Turkish bull. 
 
 Keeping in mind these facts we can easily trace the cause for the recent out- 
 break against Christian missions. 
 
 Protestant and Catholic missionaries have been largely instrumental in turn- 
 ing the lights upon the sad events in Armenia during these latter months. 
 Newspaper correspondents could be forbidden to travel in the interior; the letters 
 
412 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 of Armenians and other Turkish subjects could be ostentatiously examined and 
 their writers imprisoned, but these foreign missionaries could not be prevented 
 from telling the truth. 
 
 M. Cambon's notification to the Grand Vizier that if any French citizens at 
 Sivas were injured he would require the head of the Vali, shows how far France 
 was prepared to protect her missionaries. 
 
 A TYPICAI, TURKISH DWELLING OF THE POORER CLASS. 
 
 As these and the American missionaries know more of the Armenian massa- 
 cres than any other bodies of persons, and as they were active in the distribu- 
 tion of relief among the survivors of the massacres, there is not a very sweet 
 taste in the mouth of the man who sits upon the Ottoman throne. 
 
 The riassacres of the Armenians. 
 
 Certain persons in Europe and America have ascribed the dreadful massacres 
 which have taken place in Asia Minor to sudden and spontaneous outbreaks of 
 Moslem fanaticism. The truth is that these outbursts, while sudden, have taken 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 413 
 
 place according to a deliberate and preconcerted plan. According to the state- 
 ments of many persons, French, English, Canadian, American and native — 
 persons trustworthy and intelligent, who were in the places where the massacres 
 occurred, and some of whom were witnesses of the horrible scenes — the massacres 
 were strictly limited with regard to place, time, nationality of the victims, and 
 generally with regard to the method of killing and pillaging. The following 
 facts have been received from one who does not desire his name to be used: 
 
 With Regard to Place. 
 
 With only a few exceptions of conse quence, the massacres have been confined 
 to the territory of the six provinces where reforms were to be instituted. When 
 a band of mounted Kurdish and Circassian raiders, estimated at from one to three 
 thousand, approached the boundary line between the provinces of Sivas and 
 Angora, they were met and turned back by the local authorities and certain 
 influential Mussulmans of the latter province, who told the raiders that they had 
 no authority to pass beyond the province of Sivas. The only places where out- 
 rages occurred outside of the six provinces were, first, in the flourishing sea- 
 board city of Trebizond; secondly, in Marash, Aintab and Oorfa, and in these 
 places Moslem fanaticism was specially stirred by the success of the Armenian 
 mountaineers of Zeitun in defending themselves against their oppressors, and in 
 capturing a small Turkish garrison; and, finally in Caesarea; and here, as in the 
 places just mentioned, the Moslems were excited by the nearness of the scenes of 
 massacre, and by the reports of the plunder which other Moslems were securing. 
 
 With Regard to Time. 
 
 The massacre in Trebizond occurred just before the Sultan, after months of 
 every kind of opposition, was at last compelled by England, France and Russia to 
 consent to the scheme of reforms, as if to warn the powers of Europe that, in case 
 they persisted, the mine was already laid for the destruction of the Armenians. 
 In fact, the massacre of the Armenians is Turkey's real reply to the demands of 
 Europe. From Trebizond the wave of murder and robbery swept on through 
 almost every city and town and village in the six provinces where relief was 
 promised to the Armenians. When the news of the first massacre reached Con- 
 stantinople, a high Turkish official remarked to one of the Ambassadors that 
 massacre was like the small-pox — they must all have it, but they wouldn't need 
 to have it the second time; thus quietly, if not maliciously, hinting at what was to 
 be expected. Even the Sultan, when striving to avoid assent to the scheme of 
 reforms, told the Ambassadors, by way of intimidation, that troubles might ensue, 
 and the event shows that he knew whereof he spoke. 
 
414 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 The Nationality of tlie Victims. 
 
 These were almost exclusively Armenians. In Trebizond there is a large 
 Greek population, but neither there nor elsewhere, with possibly one or two 
 exceptions, have the Greeks been molested. Special care has also been taken to 
 avoid injury to the subjects of foreign nations, with the idea of escaping foreign 
 
 AN ANCIENT EASTERN CHURCH, NOW DESECRATED. 
 
 complications and the payment of indemnities. In Marash three school buildings 
 belonging to the American Mission were looted and one building was burned, but 
 the houses and the Girls' College occupied by Americans were not touched. In 
 Karpoot the school buildings and houses belonging to the American Mission were 
 plundered, and eight buildings were burned; but none of the Americans were hurt, 
 though shots were fired at two of them. In this place and in Marash, had the 
 fanatical Moslems not been restrained by special orders, they would probably have 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 415 
 
 killed the Americans since they regarded the Americans in those centres of 
 educational and religious work as the chief agents in enlightening and elevating 
 those whom they wished to keep as their docile and unambitious subjects and serfs. 
 
 The Method of Killing and Pillaging. 
 
 With slight exceptions, the method has been to kill within a limited period 
 the largest number of Armenians— men of business capacity and intelligence— 
 and to beggar their families by robbing them, as far as possible, of their property. 
 Hence, in almost every place, the massacres have been perpetrated during the 
 business hours, when the Armenians, in whose hands in almost every plundered 
 city at least nine-tenths of the trade was concentrated, were in their shops. In 
 several places, where, on account of fear, the Armenians had shut their shops 
 and stores, they were induced by the assurances and promises of the authorities 
 to open them just before the massacres began. In almost every place the Moslems 
 made a sudden and simultaneous attack on the market-place just after their noon- 
 day prayer, killing the shopkeepers and their clerks in their shops, or when they 
 attempted to flee, and then plundering the shops. In Diarbekir, not satisfied with 
 the killing and plundering, they also burned the shops; and in Erzroom and Sivas, 
 where the plunderers were many and the booty insufficient, they looted many houses. 
 
 In every place the perpetrators were the resident Moslem population, rein- 
 forced in Baiboot and vicinity by the Mohammedan I,azes from the southeasterly 
 section of Asia Minor bordering on the Black Sea; in the provinces of Erzroom, 
 Bitlis, Diarbekir, Harpoot and Sivas the Turks were reinforced by the Kurds, and 
 in the province of Sivas by the Kurds and Circassians; while in the city of 
 Erzroom the chief perpetrators were the Sultan's soldiers and officers, who began 
 the dreadful work at the sound of a bugle, and desisted, for the most part, when 
 the bugle signaled to them to stop. In Harpoot, also, the soldiers took a promi- 
 nent part, firing specially on the buildings of the American Mission with Martini- 
 Henry rifles and Krupp cannon. A shell from one of the cannon burst in the 
 house of the American missionary. Dr. Barnum. In most places the killing was 
 by the Turks, while the Kurds and Circassians were intent on plunder, and gene- 
 rally killed only to strike terror, or when they met with resistance. The surprised 
 and unarmed Armenians made little or no resistance, and where some of the 
 Armenians, as at Diarbekir and Gurun, undertook to defend themselves, they 
 suffered the more. The killing was done with guns, revolvers, swords, clubs, 
 pick-axes, and every conceivable weapon, and many of the dead were horribly 
 mangled. The dead were generally stripped and dragged to the Armenian ceme- 
 teries, where the surviving Armenians were compelled to bury them in huge 
 trenches, as in Erzroom, where over 500, and in Sivas, where over 800 naked and 
 mutilated bodies were covered with earth in one grave. 
 
4i6 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 The plundering was perpetrated with remorseless cruelty. The shops were 
 absolutely gutted. In the great city of Sivas, not a spool of thread or yard of 
 cloth was left in the market-place. Even the doors of some of the plundered 
 houses were torn off and carried away. But the refinement of cruelty was inflicted 
 on the inhabitants of hundreds of villages, upon whom the Kurds came down like 
 the hordes of Tamerlane, and robbed the villagers of their flocks and herds. 
 
 ARMENIANS HEI,D PRISONERS AFTER THE TREBIZOND MASSACRE. 
 
 Stripped them of their very clothing, and carried away their bedding, cooking 
 utensils, and even the little stores of provisions which the poor villagers had with 
 infinite care and toil laid up for the severities of a rigorous winter. Worst of all 
 is the bitter cry that comes from every quarter that the Turks and Kurds 
 seized and carried off" hundreds of Christian women and girls. 
 
 The number killed in the massacre in three months' time is estimated at over 
 fifty thousand — almost entirely the well-to-do, capable, intelligent men of the 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 417 
 
 Armenian population in the six to-be-reformed provinces. The amount of property 
 stolen from their prostrate subjects by the Moslems is estimated at ^10,000,000. 
 (Tlie latest estimate is much larger. ) 
 
 The notive of the Turks. 
 
 This is apparent to the most superficial observer. Tiie scheme of reforms 
 devolved civil office, judgeships and police participation on Mohammedans and 
 non-Mohammedans in the six provinces, according to the population of each 
 element of the locality. This was a bitter pill to those Mohammedan Turks who 
 had ruled the Armenians with a rod of iron for five hundred years. Hence the 
 resolution of the Turks was soon taken. It was to diminish the number of the 
 Armenians, first, by dealing a vital blow at those most capable of taking a part in 
 any scheme of reconstruction; and, secondly, by leaving as many as possible to 
 die by starvation, exposure, sickness and terror during the rigors of winter. 
 Surely the arch fiend could not have suggested a more terrible and effectual 
 method of crippling and ruining and terrorizing the Armenian Christians in the 
 entire six provinces concerned. 
 
 Some may wonder how the Turkish authorities should be so blind as to 
 destroy so large a part of their best tax-paying subjects in Asia Minor. And it 
 is indeed a wonder. The explanation is that fanatical hatred of those whom they 
 had held so long in cruel subjection, and who were, according to the scheme of 
 reforms, soon- to enjoy some form of equality, was stronger than self-interest. 
 The thought of the Turk was to make sure of the country, and he could conceive 
 of no other way than by diminishing the number of Armenians and utterly 
 terrorizing and impoverishing the survivors. 
 
 But did not the Turks fear the intervention of Christian Europe ? Not much; 
 certainly not enough to keep them from carrying out an effective, albeit diabolical, 
 plan of vengeance. And they were right, for did not 400,000,000 of Christians 
 witness, last year, the slaughter in Sassoon of some thousands of Armenians bj^ 
 Turks and Kurds without extorting from the responsible Turkish authorities the 
 punishment of a single man engaged in the diabolical work, or even the slightest 
 indemnity for the utterly impoverished survivors? Na}', more, has not the Sultan 
 laughed Europe to scorn by decorating Zekki Pasha, commander of the troops 
 ■engaged in the carnage, and Bahri Pasha, the former cruel governor of Van? 
 And have not the Kurds been again permitted to rob the survivors of the Sassoon 
 massacre, and even to destroy the little huts put up by British charity during the 
 past summer ? 
 
 riendacity of the Authorities. 
 
 But, while the Turkish authorities have thus deliberately aimed to extermi- 
 nate, as far as possible, the Armenian element in the six provinces, they have 
 27 
 
4i8 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 attempted to cover up their deeds by the most colossal lying and misrepresentation. 
 By the publication of mendacious telegrams from provincial authorities, they have 
 tried to make Europe and America believe that the Armenians have provoked 
 these massacres by attacks on Moslem worshipers during their hours of prayer, 
 and by other like acts of consummate folly. It is true that on September 30 some 
 400 young Armenians, contrary to the entreaties of the Armenian patriarch and 
 the orders of the police, attempted to take a well-worded -petition to the Grand 
 Vizier in the main government building in Stambool, and thus precipitated a 
 conflict; it is also true that the oppressed mountaineers of Zeitun captured a 
 small garrison of Turkish soldiers; it is likewise true that in various places small 
 
 WOMEN And Children waiting The daily distribution oe eood. 
 
 bands of Armenians, driven to desperation by the failure of Europe to secure the 
 fulfillment of treaty stipulations in behalf of their people, have enraged the 
 Turks by revolutionary attempts, and the Turks have retaliated by imprisoning, 
 torturing and killing hundreds of Armenians, many of whom were innocent of 
 any rebellious acts. The universal testimony of impartial foreign eye-witnesses 
 is that, with the above exceptions, the Armenians have given no provocation, 
 and that almost, if not quite, all the telegrams of the provincial authorities 
 accusing the Armenians of provoking the massacres are sheer fabrications of 
 names and dates. If the Armenians made attacks, where are the Turkish dead ? 
 For while the Armenian victims are numbered by the thousand, even the authorities 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 419 
 
 have mentioned but a few as slain among the Turks, and those few were 
 killed in only one or two places, and in self-defence, as at Diarbekir. Is it probable 
 that 7000 unarmed and defenceless Armenians — sheep among wolves — would 
 attack 23,000 Kurds and Turks in the city of Bitlis? Yet this was the charge of 
 the Turkish authorities — a fitting device to cover up their bloody work. 
 
 They Could Have Prevented It. 
 
 It is an utter mistake to suppose, as many Europeans have done, that the 
 local authorities in the cities of Trebizond, Erzroom, Erzengan, Bitlis, Harpoot, 
 Arabkir, Sivas, Amasia, Marsovan, Marash, Aintab, Oorfa and Csesarea could 
 not have suppressed the fanatical Moslem mobs and restrained the Kurds. The 
 fact is that the authorities generally looked on while the slaughter and pillage 
 were going on without raising a hand to stop it, save in one or two places; and 
 everywhere the authorities did intervene and stop the slaughter when the limited 
 period during which the Moslems were allowed to kill and rob had expired. At 
 Marsovan the limit of time was four hours. Here, as in almost every city, the 
 adult male Mussulmans performed their noon-day prayer in their mosques, asking 
 God to help them in their bloody work, and then rushed upon the Christians. 
 Within less than four hours the merciful Governor of Marsovan interfered with 
 soldiers and police, and stopped the horrid work , but meanwhile 1 20 of the leading 
 Armenian traders and business men had been killed and their goods stolen. In. 
 several places the slaughter and pillage continued from noon till sundown or later. 
 At Sivas they continued for a whole day, and even afterwards, for several days, 
 some twenty-five Armenians a day were killed. In every place, however, the 
 carnage was stopped as soon as the authorities made an earnest effort to do so. 
 Had it not been for the intervention of the authorities after the set time of one, 
 two or three days, the entire Christian population would have been exterminated. 
 And the bloody work was stopped, not because the Moslems did not desire to make 
 a clean sweep of the Christians and pillage all their goods, but because those who 
 inspired the slaughter thought that one or two or three days of killing was about 
 as much as Europe would stand at one time. 
 
 The Reason for the Massacres. 
 
 Nor let it be supposed that the Turks as such hate the Armenians as such. 
 The Armenians have been for centuries the most submissive and profitable subjects, 
 and they would still be most loyal if, instead of the increasingly oppressive policy 
 of Sultan Abdul Hamid, their lives and honor and property had been even 
 tolerably protected. All this many Turks know very well, and regret the cruel 
 and utterly impolitic course of the present sovereign. The Turk as a man has 
 many excellent qualities; it is his religion which, at certain times, makes a devil 
 
420 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 ■of him. It is the very essence of Mohammedanism that the Giaour has no right 
 to live save in subjection. While assured of their power, the Turks treated the 
 Armenians and their other Christian subjects, not with equality, but with a measure 
 of toleration. It is Europe insisting on reforms for the Armenians that has enraged 
 the Turks against the Armenians. The Turks know that in a fair and equal race 
 the Armenians will outstrip them in every department of business and industry, 
 and they see in any fair scheme of reform the handwriting on the wall for them- 
 selves. Save for this fear, the Turks would be content to tax and fleece the 
 Armenians for an unlimited period, as they have done for the last 500 years. If 
 the scheme of reforms had had in view the sections of the country where the 
 Greeks predominate, the Turks would have killed and robbed the Greeks as 
 readily as they have killed and robbed the Armenians. It is not a race fight at all; 
 for the Mohammedan Turks cordially affiliate with the Mohammedan Slavs 
 (formerly Christian) and with Kurds and Circassians and Lazes. It is a religious 
 contention, and the Mohammedan Turks are resolved to keep their Christian 
 subjects, of whatever nationality, under foot; and in case attempts of any kind 
 are made to give the Christians real equality and participation in government, the 
 Turks will kill them one by one, or, occasionally, in open massacre, unless the 
 Powers who intervene for the relief of the Christians do it with armed force. 
 
 AMKRIC AN MISSION AT OOEFA. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 AMIDST CLASSIC RUINS. 
 
 KNOW of no spot on earth from which I could more accurately 
 describe the ruins of the classic city of ancient Athens than just 
 where I am at this moment — sitting on a broken, fallen column, 
 lying amidst the wonders of the Acropolis. The general loca-. 
 tion of Athens reminds one very much of the rugged beauty 
 of Edinburgh, Scotland. Both are situated round a rocky fort- 
 ress, which rises from the street, both possess a great hill dominating the town 
 from a short distance, and Edinburgh has its noble castle and its Arthur's Seat, 
 corresponding strikingly to the Acropolis and Mount I,ycabettus, here at Athens. 
 
 But here the similarity ceases; in no place in all the world, perhaps, can yoa 
 find gathered together in the same space so many marvels of art as in the circum- 
 ference of two miles about the place where I am writing these words. 
 
 This sacred rock, first fortified and covered with buildings and votive 
 offerings, was captured by the Persians in 480 B. C. , and when the victorious 
 Athenians returned to their loved city they found their monuments defaced and 
 their Acropolis, the pride of the artistic reign of Pisistratus, in ruins. 
 
 For coming generations of those who admire the aesthetic and the beautiful 
 this historic event was a fortunate one. 
 
 A greater age supervened. Athens was now richer, nobler, more gifted in 
 her sons than she had ever been, and the brilliant victory of her arms was followed 
 by a more brilliant age of art, a generation of unparalelled energy — a period of 
 rapid growth in design and in the control of materials. 
 
 The Acropolis. 
 
 As one ascends toward the Acropolis the great Propylsea, or entrance portica 
 of the architect Muesicles, first arrests attention. While the outer row of pillars 
 in both directions are Doric, the richer Ionic order is employed for the inner 
 supports, which are under the marble roof 
 
 We can readily imagine that it required no small labor to quarry and bring 
 up to the Acropolis beams of marble twenty-two feet long and to set them over 
 pillars twenty-five feet high. 
 
 There are stray mentions of a windlass and once of a pulley in Aristophanes 
 and in Plato, but, having an unlimited supply of slave labor, there is evidence 
 
 (421) 
 
422 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 to show that usually the use of ropes, rollers and inclined planes was employed, 
 which we see in pictures of Egyptian and Assyrian transportation of colossal 
 statues. 
 
 Standing in the inner gate of the Propylaea the visitor at once is impressed by 
 the perfect features of the ruins. 
 
 Over his head are the enormous architraves of thePropylasa, which span the 
 gateway from pillar to pillar. To the right is the mighty Parthenon, so con- 
 
 PORT FOR ATHENS. 
 
 structed that sun and shade would play upon it at moments differing from the 
 rest and thus produce a perpetual variety of light. 
 
 The Parthenon. 
 
 To the left, overlooking the town, is that beautifully decorated little Ionic 
 temple, the Erechtheum, with the graceful and stately caryatids looking inward 
 and toward the Parthenon. 
 
 In these two buildings, set opposite each other, you have the embodiment of 
 majesty and grace, the ornaments of the Parthenon being large and massive, and 
 those of the Erechtheum being refined and delicate. 
 
 There are three kinds of sculptured decorations on the Parthenon. 
 
 Sculptured Decorations. 
 
 The triangular pediments over the east and west fronts were each filled with 
 a group of statues, larger than life size, the one representing the birth of Athene 
 and the other her contest with Poseidon for the patronage of Athens. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 423 
 
 The plaques of stone inserted into the frieze between the triglyphs and carved 
 in reHef with a single small group on each, form a second kind, and a band of 
 reliefs, representing a great Panathenic procession, runs all around the external 
 "wall at the top of the cella, which gives evidence nf the extraordinary power of 
 grouping in the designs of Phidias. 
 
 The cella was surrounded by a peristyle with eight Doric columns on the 
 facade and sixteen on the sides. 
 
 The building was 227 feet in length, no feet in width, and the surface upon 
 which it stood was 228 feet long and 66 feet high. 
 
 The Statue of Athens. 
 
 The most imposing statue was that of the goddess Minerva, which stood 
 erect, covered with the aegis and a long tunic, holding a lance in one hand and a 
 shield in the other, her helmet bearing a sphinx and on either side two griffins, 
 and on her shield Phidias represented the battle of the Amazons and the battle of 
 the gods and giants. 
 
 The statue was about thirty-six feet in height. 
 
 The Parthenon was erected under Pericles, and it is said to have cost 2000 
 talents, or nearly $25,000,000. 
 
 Classic Scenes. 
 
 Sloping up against one side of the Acropolis are the two famous theatres — 
 that of Herodus Atticus, of Hadrians' time, and the Theatre of Dionysus, where 
 the tragedies and comedies of the great Greek masters were produced. 
 
 On the other side is the Areopagus, or Mars' Hill. 
 
 Within sight of the former are the colossal columns of the Roman- Greek 
 Temple of Jupiter, and overlooked by the latter is that perfect gem of Doric 
 grace — the Temple of Theseus. 
 
 The Areopagus. 
 
 It was on this Areopagus, or Mars' Hill, that the old philosophers of fashion 
 came in contact with the burning eloquence, the profound convictions and the 
 fiery zeal of the Apostle Paul. 
 
 It is now a bare, rocky knoll, upon which evidences of old cutting show that 
 it was smoothed for seats and, perhaps, some wooden structure applied to make 
 the rude stones more comfortable. 
 
 The Theatre of Dionysus. 
 
 The Theatre of Dionysus is of great interest. 
 
 As the Greek religion was essentially a religion of joy, the Athenian state 
 thought it just to apply the public funds to give every free citizen a day's wages 
 
(424) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 425 
 
 in order that he might be able to enjoy himself at the drama produced as part of 
 the festival of the god Dionysus. 
 
 In the Attic tragic and comic dramas were combined moral improvement, 
 political instruction and religious enjoyment, which we cannot fully appreciate 
 unless we make a careful study of old Greek life. 
 
 This theatre, dedicated to Dionysus, was open to the weather, contained an 
 immense orchestra, and, according to recent measurements, fifteen thousand 
 persons could have found room at a performance. 
 
 Dramatic Art. 
 
 The masterpieces composed by ^schylus, Sophocles and Euripides in honor 
 of the gods and for the benefit of the imperial democracy of Athens, did not set 
 forth before the public vulgar, everyday griefs or misfortunes, as are represented 
 on the modern stage, but dealt with legendary heroes, the triumph of virtue and 
 greatness over cruelty and vice, and the victory of human prowess over the reign 
 of tyranny. 
 
 One of the famous dramas of Sophocles (CEdipus Rex 863,899) contains this 
 inspiring truth: " May it be my lot to observe strict holiness in every word and 
 deed — holiness whose august laws are proclaimed from their birthplace far above 
 the earth, for Heaven alone, and no mortal race of man hath begotten them, nor 
 will oblivion ever lull them to sleep. Great is the Divine Spirit in them and of 
 eternal youth." 
 
 Its Religious Bearing. 
 
 I suppose that every intelligent man must conclude that it was only with the 
 rise of sestheticism that religion ever became a doctrine of sadness and fear, robbing 
 the wine-cup of life of its sweetness and sparkling beauty. 
 
 In the' fifty years between the end of the Persian and the commencement of 
 the Peloponnesian wars Athenian genius, both political and artistic, reached its 
 most perfect development. 
 
 'Tis true that the Hermes of Praxiteles, the gem of the Olympian excava- 
 tions, is of its kind unique, and beyond compare, but, with few brilliant excep- 
 tions, the middle of the fifth century B. C. witnessed the climax in sculpture, 
 architecture and poetr}^ if not in painting, instrumental music and eloquence. 
 
 Tlie Decline of Hellas. 
 
 This supremacy excited jealousy and led to tyrannical rule, and after the 
 fourth century B. C, which produced Plato and Demosthenes and Apelles, the 
 chief glory departed from Athens to settle in Alexandria, Antioch, Pergamum 
 and Rhodes. 
 
426 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 After the days of Alexander the once glorious Athens fell under the senti- 
 mental favor of the Romans, and their touch is traceable in the ruins that are 
 crumbling about me. 
 
 The last struggle for old Greek independence was fought before Corinth, a 
 short distance from Athens, and the burning of that splendid city in 146 B. C. by 
 the Roman Mummius marked a great epoch in history. 
 
 The Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians give us glimpses of the customs 
 of this collection of mercantile people under the favor of Roman influences, 
 
 ATHENIAN EXCAVATIONS. 
 
 Nothing of the great Corinth remains except the noble Doric pillars of one 
 old temple, v^hich points to the seventh century before Christ, and which, if they 
 had tongues, could doubtless convince us that the facts of history are more 
 thrilling than the fictions of the wildest imagination. 
 
 About Ancient Troy. 
 
 I suppose that it will not be disputed that Dr. Schliemann, by his excavations 
 in this part of the world, proved himself to be the most intelligent, enterprising 
 and indefatigable explorer of modern times. 
 
 His death was a greater calamity than would have been the death of any 
 crowned head on any throne on earth. He was taken away while in the midst of 
 the exploration of fields that are rich in the treasures of the past, and while he 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 427 
 
 left some noble followers, it is quite doubtful if any of them will equal the 
 enthusiastic pioneer in their labors. 
 
 In coming to Athens, where is located his palatial home, I hoped to have 
 personal interviews with members of his family and receive much information 
 about his life work. I have been greatly favored in these respects. 
 
 riadame Schliemann. 
 
 Through the kindness of the talented artist, Mr. Gifford Dyer, who is 
 doing excellent work in Athens, I was presented to Madame Schliemann, 
 and after hearing her talk of her husband's labors and listening to her lucid 
 explanations of the "finds" in the museum of her home, one can appreciate 
 the remark of an admirer of hers who said to me that the Doctor could never 
 have accomplished his success had it not been for the warm sympathy of his 
 intelligent wife. 
 
 While a widower the report is that the learned gentleman declared that he 
 would never marry until he found a woman who could recite from memory all of 
 Homer's poems. The condition was met in the cultured Grecian woman who 
 became his inspiration. 
 
 The lovers of the Iliad and the Odyssey will agree, perhaps, that Dr. 
 Schliemann did nothing by his excavation that merits to a greater degree the 
 gratitude of the world than his successful efforts in throwing light on the question 
 of Homer's place in history, and his discovery of what is, beyond all reasonable 
 doubt, the location of ancient Troy. 
 
 The Explorer's Discoveries. 
 
 Professor Gildersleeve, of Johns Hopkins Universit^^ and Professor Wheeler, 
 of Cornell University, who are at present in Athens, visited the place of these 
 excavations, and both regard the conclusions reached as pre-eminently satis- 
 factory. 
 
 These excavations have undoubtedly contributed much toward clearing up a 
 hitherto very muddy subject, and of linking the Homeric poems with the general 
 history of the world. 
 
 Before Dr. Schliemann' s explorations were rewarded with success many believed 
 that the city which played such a thrilling part in the poems of Homer existed 
 only in the poet's imagination; but now a real Troy, for the first time with 
 marked notes of probability, is presented to our view. 
 
 It is interesting, if not positively conclusive, to notice the striking comparison 
 between the testimony of the poems and the testimony given in through these 
 excavations. 
 
o 
 
 > 
 < 
 U 
 
 w 
 
 < 
 g 
 S 
 
 B 
 
 
 fpi y 
 
 (428) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 429 
 
 Historic Troy. 
 
 While we cannot say, nor does any one contend, that they definitely fix for 
 the Trojan war a place in chronology, yet the relation between the excavations 
 and the Homeric text bears a correspondence that is so close as to be most 
 remarkable, to say the least. 
 
 Since the death of Dr. Schliemann this work has been ably prosecuted by 
 several distinguished gentlemen with increasingly gratifying results. The excava- 
 tions bring before us the remains of a large city, which point to the days when 
 there were great builders in prehistoric times. 
 
 --f '~*«HiHi^~s~^ . :■ 
 
 HISTORIC TROY. 
 
 It will be remembered that the Homeric poems represent the walls of Troy as 
 the mighty work of Poseidon, and thus, by means of the pickaxe of the modern 
 excavator, we are brought in relation to a race of people which has left many 
 traces of its work along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. 
 
 The Excavations. 
 
 In these excavations we have presented to us the fact that the inhabitants of 
 this old, but new-found city, used copper as the staple material of the implements. 
 
43° 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 utensils and of the weapons of war, generally, when any metal was brought in 
 service, and in this respect again we have a correspondence with certain 
 ■descriptions by Homer. But there is an apparent exception to this. 
 
 Several large battle-axes have been found, and by means of chemical analysis 
 these have been determined to be bronze. These battle-axes were found with a 
 mass of very precious objects, and the supposition is that they were possessed by 
 the royal family or by the wealthy. 
 
 We know that Homer speaks of tin as a metal of high value and rarity, and 
 
 consequently the kuanos, or bronze, of 
 which he writes, was even more costly, 
 the use of which was confined to the 
 wealthier classes. 
 
 Homer's Testimony. 
 
 The brilliant passage in the poems 
 which describes the twined or plaited 
 fillet of gold which formed a part of 
 the head-dress of Andromache, and 
 which was torn ofi' in agony of grief 
 on Hector's death, is strikingly illus- 
 trated by two exquisite head-dresses 
 or ornaments of pure gold which the 
 excavations have brought to light. 
 
 The presumption is, and it does 
 not seem to be unreasonable, that 
 these are the ornaments worn by An- 
 dromache, which the Iliad testifies to 
 have been of great significance, and 
 which were carefully put awaj' in an 
 effort to save them on account of their 
 importance. 
 
 Dr. Schliemann was congratulated on another "find," which strengthens 
 the relation between the poems and the excavations. Six oblong plates of silver, 
 weighing from 171 up to 190 grammes, or about five ounces each, were found 
 among certain treasures, and experts seem to agree that these are the talanta of 
 Homer, which belong to an epoch when the use of gold and silver was unknown 
 in the smaller transactions of exchange. 
 
 The poem agrees with the conclusions thus reached, as for instance the 
 descriptions of the foe presented to the successful judge and the fourth prize 
 awarded in the chariot race (Iliad xviii, 507; xxiii, 269). 
 
 A CLASSIC HEAD, ATHENS. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 431 
 
 Art of Writing. 
 
 With respect to writing, these explorations show that, in this city and time, 
 it was not in use for ordinary purposes, and was the rare and recondite possession 
 of comparatively a very few. This fact bears a marked parallel to the position of 
 writing in the poems of Homer, from which we infer that it was nearly an 
 unknown art among the mass of the 
 people. 
 
 A pleasant time was spent in the 
 National Museum, where Dr. Schlie- 
 mann generously deposited most of 
 the results of his labors. What 
 glories of art crowned the fourth and 
 fifth centuries B. C. of Athenian his- 
 tory! 
 
 The American Athletes. 
 
 The city is still talking of the fine 
 impression made by the American 
 athletes during the late Olympic games. 
 Beside carrying off some of the hand- 
 some prizes, their striking appearance 
 and their gentlemanly conduct elicited 
 universal praise. 
 
 An enthusiastic Grecian living in 
 Alexandria has just given $50,000 for 
 the restoration of the great Stadium, 
 and a bill is to be presented in the 
 Parliament of Greece providing for 
 the exhibition of these games every 
 four years. The next Olympic games 
 will be held at Paris in 1900. Speaking of this Parliament reminds me of the 
 parliamentary election of the new Athenian member that took place Sunday 
 afternoon. The streets were full of shouting men and decorated carriages, the 
 four candidates were borne through the city in grand style and the ballots were 
 all deposited in boxes set up before the altars in the difierent cathedrals. How 
 is this for church and state ? 
 
 BEI,I,E OF ATHBNS. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 A QEn OF THE SEAS. 
 
 |T was the French novelist, Paul Bourget, who exclaimed as his 
 steamer was approaching the picturesque island of Corfu : " It 
 is so lovely that one wants to take it in one's arms; " and the 
 great Bonaparte, as he looked upon the old town, with its mas- 
 sive stone houses of creamy color, built upon the irregular 
 slopes of the hills, said to his companion on the deck of the 
 ship: " Here is the most beautiful situation in the world. " 
 
 As we came in sight of this gem of the seas, the clearness 
 of the atmosphere, the deep blue of the sky, the play of colors upon the moun- 
 tainous background of the old-fashioned tower, and the varied tint of the sur- 
 rounding sea, all contributed to make the picture perfect beyond description. 
 
 We may well suppose that contending powers fought fiercelj' during all the 
 ages for the possession of this little paradise. 
 
 Under the Maltese Cross. 
 
 Corinthians, Athenians, Spartans, Macedonians, Romans, Frenchmen and 
 Englishmen have, in turn, planted their standards here, and now the flag that 
 bears the Maltese cross floats from the great fortress that proudly dominates the 
 island. 
 
 Although for years it was under the friendly protectorate of Great Britain 
 this was never quite satisfactory to the Corfiotes, and when the chance was given 
 them, with enthusiasm they voted, ' ' The single and unanimous will of the 
 Ionian people has been and is for their reunion with the Kingdom of Greece." 
 
 As this was more than a gentle hint, it was in 1864 that England gracefully 
 withdrew, and since that time Corfu and her sister islands have formed an 
 important part of the Hellenic kingdom. 
 
 The King of Greece. 
 
 Here, as everywhere among the Hellenes, we found that the King of Greece 
 is very popular, and his democratic manners make him the idol of the common 
 people. 
 
 (432) 
 
WITH KYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 433 
 
 As will be remembered, he was Prince William, of Denmark, the brother 
 of the Czarina of Russia and of the Princess of Wales, and after his election by 
 the National Assembly, in 1863, he took the name of George. 
 
 Before his election was finally announced votes were cast for Prince Albert of 
 England, the Duke of Edinburg, Prince Jerome Napoleon, the Prince Imperial, 
 and some in the assembly enthusiast- 
 ically advocated a republican form of 
 government, but all at last united on 
 the young prince from Denmark, who 
 was as little of an aristocrat as could 
 be found in all Europe. 
 
 Indeed, Greece is more of a re- 
 public, perhaps, than any other country 
 with a crowned head at its helm. 
 Suffrage is universal; hereditary titles 
 are not known; there are no entailed 
 estates; the press is absolutely free, 
 and the advantages of education are 
 enjoyed by all classes. 
 
 The people are passionately patri- 
 otic, and they seem to be intensely 
 alive to everything that pertains to 
 the welfare of their loved land. 
 
 The City of Corfu. 
 
 Our ship had hardly dropped an- 
 chor, a few hundred yards from the 
 esplanade of Corfu, when a score of 
 boatmen were clamoring for our pat- 
 ronage, and, accepting the services of 
 an old Corfiote, whose English and 
 French were as dilapidated as were 
 his garments and craft, we were soon 
 on the streets of the city, whose pop- 
 ulation of about thirty thousand is 
 composed, besides the natives, of Dal- 
 matians, Maltese, Levantines and He- 
 brews. A strange fact came to my knowledge while gathering data about the 
 island and its people. The heirs of a certain George Colochieretry have been 
 maintained in luxury for many years by means of the embalmed body of a saint by 
 
 the nameof Spiridion, who was martyred fifteen hundred years ago. 
 28 
 
 A MODERN GREEK MAID. 
 
•434 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 St. Spiro's Body. 
 
 The story goes that he was persecuted tinder Diocletian. His embalmed body- 
 was taken to Constantinople, and in the latter half of the fifteenth century 
 Colochieretry, at his own expense, brought it to Corfu, where it reposes in a silver 
 coffin, lit by hanging lamps, under the dome of the Church of St. Spiro. 
 
 Persons are seen in great numbers pressing into the church on certain 
 
 occasions, where they lay their 
 gifts upon and kneel before 
 the sarcophagus of the sainted 
 dead. 
 
 Every four months the 
 body is lifted from the coffin 
 and borne up and down the 
 streets, followed by the Greek 
 clergy and the officials of the 
 town, and, during these per- 
 formances, the ignorant masses 
 of the people bring forth their 
 sick and lay them, with gifts, 
 where the shadow of the saint 
 can pass over them. 
 
 If the heirs of George 
 Colochieretry, who inherited 
 this remarkable piece of prop- 
 erty, were inspired by the en- 
 terprising spirit of certain 
 Americans, a stock company 
 would be formed without de- 
 lay, and live stock would be 
 issued upon this corpse of fif- 
 teen hundred years. 
 The island contains many antiquities of great interest. 
 
 Fifty j^ears ago, when one of the old forts was demolished, an ancient Greek 
 cemetery was uncovered, and among the graves was found the tomb of Menekrates, 
 which bears a metrical inscription in Greek, and which makes the statement that 
 he lost his life accidentally by drowning. 
 
 This inscription was carved upon this stone two thousand five hundred years 
 ago, before the battles of Salamis and Marathon were fought, and the writing is 
 5till perfectly legible. 
 
 Here on Corfu one recalls the Odyssey over and over again. 
 
 A MODERN GREEK. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 435 
 
 Nausicaa comes to mind, for Corfu is the Scheria of Homer's poem, the home 
 of King Alcinous. 
 
 Not far from where we stand we can see the bhie waters of a deep bay which 
 receives a stream upon whose bank Ulysses first looked upon the charming 
 maiden, "where were the pools unfailing, and clear and abundant the water." 
 
 Classic Isles. 
 
 Out in the sparkling bay an island of classic story is seen. It is the 
 ship which was turned into stone by Neptune, whose masts are now trees, 
 
 PRISON OF SOCRATES, ATHENS. 
 
 -whose deck is now a platform of rock, and whose hull rests upon unseen 
 foundations. 
 
 Ten miles south of Corfu we pass Paxo, of romantic legend. To the right is 
 Parga, which is associated with the expression of Hobhouse, "Robbers all at 
 Parga." The next island of the Ionian group is Santa Maura, the I^encadia of 
 the ancients, from whence dark Sappho flung herself in her despair. 
 
(4361 
 
WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEN. 437 
 
 Now comes in sight Ithaca, which Ulysses loved, " not because it was broad, 
 but because it was his own," and as we pass Zante the words of our own Poe are 
 
 recalled : 
 
 "O hyacinthine isle ! O purple Zante ! 
 Isola d'oro ! Fior di Levante ! " 
 
 The sail through these island-dotted seas was only too short, and on the 
 second day we touched the Italian shore. Although some years since we had 
 enjoyed a delightful visit to Naples, Pompeii and Vesuvius, with pleasure we 
 turn our faces again in this direction. Especially we desired to make another 
 study of the live mountain and dead citJ^ 
 
 In a Dead City. 
 
 With the exception of Constantinople, no city in Europe and Asia is more 
 beautifully situated than Naples. From the northern shores of the bay it looks 
 out upon a picture in water-colors that is world-renowned, and between the city 
 and the chain of the Apennines smoking Vesuvius, with its lower slopes 
 studded with white villages, rises insulated in the plain, with the partly excavated 
 city of Pompeii in the meadow below. 
 
 Of this live mountain and dead city I desire specially to speak. 
 
 In the cool hours of a delightful spring day I took carriage at Naples, and, 
 ■driving along the crowded quays of the Marinella, the picturesque old Castle of 
 the Carmine and the Ponte della Maddalena were soon behind us, and we were 
 •dashing down the road that runs near the eastern shores of the bay. 
 
 Stretched on the fences, hanging from the limbs of trees, twined about the 
 •doors and windows of the houses and festooning the tops of the houses were miles 
 and miles of macaroni, and as the carriage passed over the road Italian boys and 
 girls ran in front of the horses, turning somersaults, and exclaiming, " Macaroni," 
 "Macaroni," which corresponds to our beggar's plea for " bread," macaroni 
 being the staff of life. 
 
 The exhibition of the manufacture of the stuff, the display of the serpentine 
 thing stretching over everything in sight and the din of the word from the 
 mouths of the army of beggars have, I fear, turned my taste against a dish that 
 has hitherto been quite palatable. 
 
 Our road passed through the court-yard of the palace at Portici, at the head 
 •of the bay, and immediately afterward we enter the little city of Resina, where 
 more than ten thousand persons have built their houses and enjoy the pleasures of 
 life upon the tufa and lava which cover the noted town of Herculaneum. 
 
 Less than two miles out of Resina we reach the Observatory, about 2000 feet 
 above the sea, and close at hand is the Hermitage, from which a magnificent view 
 is taken of the heights of Camaldoli, Posillpo, Misenum, Ischia, with its pyramid- 
 
438 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvD. 
 
 like Monte Eporneo standing against the blue Italian sky, and toward the south, 
 can be seen the Monte St. Angelo, with Castellammare, Vico, Sorrento and 
 Massa at its foot, and. further in the distance loom up the three-peaked Capri. 
 
 At the Crater of Vesuvius. 
 
 Declining to~ be aided by a persevering porter, and accompanied only by a 
 single guide, I made the ascension to the crater of Vesuvius on foot. This is an 
 experience of a lifetime and there is no temptation ever to repeat it. For more 
 
 CITY OF NAPLES WITH MOUNT VESUVIUS IN THE BACKGROUND. 
 
 than two hours I pressed my weary way through loose ashes and fresh lava 
 currents, and when the top of the cone was reached the waves of sulphurous vapor 
 were so trying that I was obliged to hold a handkerchief over my mouth, and turn 
 my face away from the wind to relieve the stifling sensation produced by the 
 impregnated atmosphere. When I reached the extreme top both of the soles of 
 my shoes were nearly burned off, my trousers were scorched in several places, my 
 new Naples hat was broken in, and I looked, I am sure, like a double first cousin 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 439 
 
 to the most disreputably tramp that ever proudly marched in the ranks of Coxey's 
 army. At the circus, when a wild beast bellowed, an enthusiastic Irishman was heard 
 to exclaim: " That's a mighty sound. I'd like to look into the crater's mouth." 
 While the mumblings and groanings of fiery Vesuvius filled my ears I was 
 prompted by as laudable an ambition, and I said to my obliging guide, ' ' This is 
 a terrible noise that comes out 
 of this trembling mountain. 
 I must look into the crater' s 
 mouth! ' ' Holding his arm, I 
 walked to the crumbling edge 
 of the pit of fire, and as the 
 wind blew the vapor and 
 smoke in the opposite direc- 
 tion I looked down into this 
 flaming lake, which reminded 
 me of certain thrilling descrip- 
 tions in Dante's " Inferno." 
 
 Its Historical Aspect. 
 
 Vesuvius, which rises 
 4060 feet in the midst of the 
 plain of Campania, is about 
 thirty miles in circumference, 
 and on the west it is open to 
 the plain of Naples, and on 
 the south its base is washed 
 by the sea. During the last 
 three hundred years Vesuvius 
 has been the only active crater 
 among the volcanic group of 
 the Bay of Naples, and Stom- 
 boli, the most northern of the 
 Eipari Islands, is the only 
 other permanently active vol- 
 cano in Europe, lying about seventy miles north of ^tna and 120 miles southeast 
 of Vesuvius. 
 
 Although Strabo describes Vesuvius as a truncated cone, with a barren and 
 ashy aspect, " having cavernous hollows in its cineritious rocks, which look as if 
 they had been acted on by fire, ' ' and Seneca writes that in former times it had 
 given out more than its own volume of matter and had furnished the channel, not 
 
 GRECIAN CADET. 
 
440 
 
 AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 the food, of the internal fire, it was not until the sixty-third year of our era, 
 during the reign of Nero, that the mountain began for the first time to give indi- 
 cations that the volcanic fire was returning to its former channel. On the second 
 month of this year the surrounding country was shaken by an earthquake, which, 
 as Seneca informs us, threw down a great part of Pompeii and Herculaneum; in 
 
 the following year another earthquake 
 occurred, which destroyed a part of 
 Naples, and during the next sixteen 
 years these commotions continued at 
 
 intervals. 
 
 Death of Pliny. 
 
 But it was on the twenty-fourth 
 of August, in the year 79, during the 
 reign of Titus, that the first eruption 
 of Vesuvius of which we have any 
 record took place. It was this eruption 
 which destroyed Pompeii and Hercu- 
 laneum and which caused the death of 
 Pliu}', the naturalist. 
 
 The younger Pliny, in letters to 
 Tacitus, gives a description of the 
 death of his uncle (vi. 16 and 20); and 
 says that about one in the afternoon 
 his mother informed his uncle, who 
 was stationed with the Roman fleet at 
 Misenum, that a cloud appeared of un- 
 usual size and shape. " It was not," 
 he continues, ' ' at that distance dis- 
 cernible from what mountain it arose, 
 but it was found afterward that it was 
 from Vesuvius. I cannot give a more 
 exact description of its figure than by 
 likening it to that of a pine tree, for it 
 shot up a great height in the form 
 of a trunk, which extended itself at the top into the form of branches, occasioned, 
 I imagine, either by a sudden gust of air, which impelled it, the force of which 
 decreased 'as it advanced upward, or the cloud itself, being pressed back again by 
 its own weight, expanded in this manner. It appeared sometimes bright and 
 sometimes dark and spotted, as it became more and more impregnated with earth 
 and cinders. This was a surprising phenomenon, and it deserved, in the opinion 
 
 SOI,DIER OF ATHENS. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 441 
 
 of the learned man, to be inquired into more carefully. He commanded a 
 I,iburman galley to be prepared for him, and made me an offer of accompanying 
 ,him, if I desired. I declined, as my studies were more agreeable. He went 
 out of the house with his tablets in his hand. 
 
 ' ' The mariners at Retiniae entreated him not to venture upon so hazardous an 
 undertaking. He sailed immediately to places which were abandoned by other 
 people. He now found that the ashes beat into the ships much hotter and in 
 greater quantities, and as he drew nearer, pumice stones, with black flints, burnt 
 and torn up by the flames, broke in upon them, and now the hasty ebb of the sea 
 and ruins tumbling from the mountain, hindered their nearer approach to the 
 shore. 
 
 " Pausing a little upon this, whether he should not return back, and, urged to 
 it by the pilot, he cried out: ' Fortune assists the brave; let us make the best of 
 our way to Pomponianus,' who was then at Stabise." 
 
 Destruction of Pompeii. 
 
 During this terrible night he perished. 
 
 The younger Pliny, the historian, gives a minute description of the eruption 
 and the devastation it wrought. The crater vomited ashes, red-hot stones, loose 
 fragments of volcanic materials and enormous volumes of vapor, which fell upon 
 the country for miles around in torrents of heated water, charged with the dry, 
 light ashes which were suspended in the air. 
 
 Since this first recorded eruption Vesuvius during every century has burst 
 forth in these fearful upheavals, but the most important eruptions, in modern 
 times, occurred in the years 1632, 1793, 1794, 1804, 1822, 1828 and 1872. 
 
 It has been noticed that when the crater is nearly filled up or its surface 
 slightly depressed below the rim, and when there is a diminution of the water in 
 the springs and wells on the slopes and at the foot of the mountain, an eruption 
 is near at hand. 
 
 A Dead City. 
 
 With a copy of Bulwer's " I,ast Days of Pompeii" in hand, it was with 
 thrilling sensations of pleasure that I passed through the entrance near the Street 
 of the Tombs, and commenced my study of the ruins of a city that was suddenly 
 checked in its life of gaiety and pleasure by the fiery monster on the plain over 
 eighteen hundred years ago. 
 
 The destroyed city was itself built upon the volcanic rocks of the Campania, 
 which formed a peninsula, surrounded by a plain extending to the sea on the west 
 and south and bounded on the east by the river Sarno. Although one of the 
 classic writers informs us that it was ' ' a celebrated city, ' ' little of its history has 
 come down to us. 
 
442 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 At the time of its destruction it was a commercial town of about thirty 
 thousand inhabitants, was a summer resort for wealthy Romans, and in the year 
 A. D. 55 it became a Roman colony under Nero. Cicero had a villa in one of the 
 suburbs of the place and here wrote his " Offices." 
 
 It was in Pompeii that Claudius took refuge from the cruelty of Tiberius, 
 
 here Seneca passed his early 
 j^outh, and it was in the am- 
 phitheatre of the city that 
 occurred a fight between 
 the citizens of Pompeii, and 
 the town of Nuceria, which 
 is so vividly described by 
 Tacitus. 
 
 While the people of the 
 city were bu.sily engaged in 
 repairing the buildings that 
 had been injured by the earth- 
 quakes of A. D. 63 and 64, 
 the eruption of August 24, 79, 
 completely destroyed the city. 
 Showers of ashes and pumice 
 overwhelmed the place, the 
 roofs of the houses were broken 
 in by the stones, and in their 
 residences and on the streets 
 hundreds of persons were 
 killed. 
 
 Excavations and Discoveries. 
 
 Although the celebrated 
 engineer and architect, Do- 
 menico Fontana, in the year 
 1592, constructed an aqueduct 
 for conveying the water of 
 the Sarno to Torre dell' An- 
 
 nunziata under the city, passing the Forum and three temples, and sinking his air 
 
 shafts over more than a mile of its surface, it was not until the middle of the 
 
 eighteenth century that the city was discovered. 
 
 While a peasant in the year 1748 was sinking a well, a painted chamber 
 
 containing statues and other objects of antiquity was unearthed, and immediately 
 
 ATHENIAN STREET MERCHANT. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 443 
 
 under the order of Charles III. the excavations were prosecuted vigoronsly. A 
 few years later the great amphitheatre was cleared out, and since that time, with 
 more or less activity, the work has been going on. 
 
 For some years there was an annual grant of 60,000 frs. ($12,000) by 
 the Italian Parliament for the prosecution of the excavations, but whether this 
 sum is now devoted to the work I am not informed. In shape the town is an 
 irregular oval extending from east to west and surrounded by walls in circum- 
 ference about two miles. 
 
 Streets and flansions. 
 
 The widest streets are not more than eleven feet, not including the raised 
 footway; there were five principal thoroughfares of the cit}^ and the pavements 
 are composed mostly of large polygonal blocks of lava closely fitted together. 
 
 It is interesting to trace the Greek and Roman styles of architecture among 
 the ruins of Pompeii. Some of the temples retain the peculiar features of Grecian 
 architecture, but in most cases the principles of Greek art have been corrupted or 
 •cast aside altogether. For instance, the Ionic capital, which in Greek architecture 
 was invariably marked by its simplicity, is here loaded with elaborate ornaments. 
 
 It is noticeable that some of the handsomest mansions have shops attached to 
 them, showing the commercial character of the city. There is a sameness in the 
 houses. 
 
 Structure of Houses. 
 
 The outer walls of the ground floor were stuccoed, and generally painted in 
 "bright colors; the upper floors alone had windows, and the roof, being flat, was con- 
 verted into a terrace and planted with vines and flowers, so as to form a pleasant 
 promenade. The vestibule led into the court, where public conferences were held 
 by the proprietor; and the private apartments of the house consisted of a number of 
 rooms decorated according to the rank and circumstances of the occupant. 
 
 Within the limits of this chapter it is impossible for me to dwell in detail upon 
 the interesting ruins of Pompeii, but those that attract particular attention are the 
 Forum, the Basilica, the Temples of Venus, Jupiter, Augustus and Neptune, the 
 Houses of Diomed, Sallust, Faun, Castor and Pollux, the Baths, the Gate of 
 Herculaneum, the Amphitheatre and the Street of the Tombs. 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 Among the many antiquities found in the city are valuable works of art and 
 many" objects which have made familiar to us the religion, the public institutions, 
 the amusements and the domestic life of this people, but it is remarkable that 
 nothing has yet been discovered which throws light on their literature or intellec- 
 tual pursuits. With the exception of a single papyrus roll and a few lines found 
 
444 
 
 AROUND THE WORIvD 
 
 on the walls of the Basilica, and a verse of the ^neid written on the wall of a 
 private house, no traces of ancient literature, as far as I can learn, have come to 
 light. 
 
 What strange feelings possess one as he listens to his own footsteps upon 
 pavements that were silent for so many centuries ! Thought lifts the veil that 
 hides from view the dim, distant past. 
 
 Lifting the Veil. 
 
 l/Doking upon the blackened forms of men, women and children, whose warm 
 blood was chilled by a terrible calamity a few years after the Apostle Paul, the 
 Roman prisoner, passed near by on his way to Rome (and some of whom, perhaps, 
 saw the chained Christian hero) , ages seem to be annihilated, and we are 
 brought face to face with events that have heretofore been to us only historical. 
 
 The gay town is alive with the aristocracy of Rome; ' the theatres are crowded 
 with applauding audiences; the narrow streets swarm with the brilliantly cos- 
 tumed, motley, jostling, laughing, quarreling host of humanity, the growing 
 plants wave under the cool sprays of the playing fountains in the court-yards as- 
 the rich occupants entertain their guests. Suddenly a crape veil is drawn over 
 the bright face of the sun, the artillery of Vesuvius shoots torth missiles of fire 
 and death, and the glory of gladness passes into the gloom of the grave. 
 
 PRIEST OF THE GREEK CHURCH. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 A CITY OF THE C/ESARS— THE FACTS AND FABLES OF ROME. 
 
 S in ancient times, so in these modern days, all the roads in 
 Italy lead to Rome; but how different the mode of travel 
 over these highways now and in the times of the Caesars! 
 A few hours behind a puffing iron horse, and we pass from 
 the beautiful bay to the turbid Tiber. Rome lies chiefly 
 on the eastern side of the Tiber, a deep, rapid, muddy 
 stream, running southward to the Mediterranean Sea. The 
 seven hills (actually ten hills) upon which the ancient city 
 was built are comparatively slight elevations, having been lowered by the cutting 
 ■down of their summits and the filling in of their valleys. 
 
 The modern Rome is built on the debris of the old city, varying from ten to 
 fifty feet in depth. The streets of the city, with two or three exceptions, are 
 short and narrow — many are crooked and filthy, all are paved with small broken 
 stones, rough, sharp and hard as flint, which are a torment to pedestrians. 
 
 The houses are built to the edge of the streets, generally large, three to six 
 stories high, fireproof and stuccoed — and nearly every house is occupied by several 
 families on difierent floors. 
 
 The plazas or public squares are numerous, and many of them are adorned 
 with fountains, statues, monuments, obelisks and arches. 
 
 The Pincian Garden deserves special notice. It crowns a hill of historic 
 interest, and here was the villa of LucuUus, the conqueror of Mithridates, and the 
 grave of Nero. An ancient parapet wall, loo feet high, skirts one side, and from 
 the opposite direction can be seen a landscape of surpassing beauty. 
 
 The summit has recently been leveled and beautified with drives, walks, 
 trees, shrubs, flowers, grottoes, statues and fountains. This last word brings to 
 mind the fountain of Trevi, one of the most wonderfully fantastic fountains in the 
 world. 
 
 As I came down one of the narrow streets of Rome, I was dazzled by sheets 
 of water, which, from a pell-mell of rocks, dominated by a building covered with 
 statues, came tumbling, foaming and sparkling on every side, to be engulfed in 
 cavernous holes. In the midst of rock-work and shell, Neptune emerges with 
 his steed from the basement of a palace to which this enormous construction is 
 
 (445) 
 
446 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 
 2"«"*iSi". 
 
 fixed. From graceful bas-reliefs, from the upper basins, from the hollow of 
 rocks in which intertwine climbing plants carved on rough stone, innumerable 
 streams of all sizes spout forth on every side; and gathering into a cataract of 
 pure, limpid water, it dashes into a reservoir in which a small .ship might float. 
 
 From this basin of crystal water let us turn our eyes to a great reservoir, 
 long since left dry, called the Baths of Canacalla. 
 
 These immense ruins, with their thick walls, high arches and vast baths lined 
 with mosaics, are located on the banks of the Tiber, and were commenced by 
 
 Caracalla in A. D. 
 
 212. 
 
 These baths 
 covered 2,625,000 
 square yards, 
 nearly a mile 
 square, and could 
 accommodate from 
 ten to thirty thou- 
 sand bathers. 
 
 These and 
 other public baths 
 were the resort of 
 all classes, for 
 pleasure, business 
 and dissipation; 
 and the influence 
 of these gatherings 
 was, doubtless, one 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF ROME. ^f ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^f 
 
 the degeneracy of the Romans, rendering them an easy prey to the Goths and 
 Vandals. 
 
 We must now pass on to the historical spot called the Palatine, round whicli 
 the seven hills group themselves, and which is the primitive site of Rome. It 
 was just here, according to the legend, that Romulus and Remus, the twin sons 
 of Mars and Sylvia, were suckled by a she wolf, then reared by the shepherd 
 Faustulus; and here it was that the remarkable Romulus harnessed a heifer and a 
 bull to a plow, and traced the sacred enclosure of the city between the rising and 
 going down of the sun. 
 
 As we saunter among these thickets of ruins we are borne into the bosom of 
 the classic period of Roman history, and nearly every fragment about us finds its 
 identity guaranteed by a citation from some annalist or poet of antiquity. 
 
448 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Here dwelt, besides the chief dictators, the Gracchi, as well as Catullus, 
 Flaccus, Hortensius, Catiline and Marcus Tullius. 
 
 Just here it was that Cicero referred in those lines to the Tribune Clodius: 
 ' ' I will raise my roof higher, not from contempt for thee, but to veil from thee 
 
 the view of the city which 
 thou would' st fain have 
 destroyed"" 
 
 Below the roof, and a 
 little to the right, Julius 
 Caesar established himself 
 as soon as he was in pos- 
 session of the pontificate. 
 
 Near here Marcus An- 
 tonius, Claudius Nero, the 
 father of Tiberius, and 
 Octavius, the father of 
 Augustus, looked from 
 their windows upon the 
 rolling Tiber and formed 
 ambitious and cruel 
 schemes. 
 
 During recent excava- 
 tions a curious and im- 
 portant discovery was made 
 on the Palatine Hill. The 
 pursuit of the excavations 
 brought to light a subter- 
 ranean passage, round 
 which, in the direction of 
 the ancient palace, were the 
 leaden pipes for the con- 
 duct of water. On these 
 pipes we can read, from 
 distance to distance, the 
 words IVLI^ AVG 
 (Julise Aug.). As the name of the owner is constantly inscribed on pipes of this 
 kind, this inscription is a genuine proof of ownership, and informs that the house in 
 question belonged to the Empress L,ivia, Julia Augusta, orl,ivia, widow of Augustus. 
 This house is decorated in the most brilliant style. One of the panels con- 
 tains a fanciful landscape, in which trees, terraces adorned with statues, bridges 
 
 INTERIOR OF CHAPEL ON THE SPOT WHERE ST. PETER 
 WAS CRUCIFIED. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 449 
 
 thrown out into space, rookeries and flowing water make up a scene that would 
 delight a Japanese; in the foreground three ducks are coining out of an aquatic 
 grotto, leaving long furrows in the water. 
 
 Some of the rooms are enriched by thick garlands of flowers and fruit suc- 
 ceeding one another 
 in festoons and 
 bound with rib- 
 bons; and others 
 contain paintings 
 of rare delicacy, 
 much of the fresh- 
 ness of the coloring 
 being preserved. 
 
 But, on the 
 Palatine, nothing 
 interested me more 
 than Nero's Fo- 
 rum, the outline of 
 which has been 
 identified by arch- 
 aeologists. There 
 we see a portion of 
 the wall, there the 
 bench of Council- 
 lors, the imperial 
 judgment seat, and 
 there is the pris- 
 oner's seat. 
 
 We know that 
 Paul was tried be- 
 fore Nero. This 
 was his Forum, and 
 perhaps just here 
 the Apostle to the 
 
 Gentiles stood. As we cross the Tiber to visit St. Peter's and the Vatican on the 
 western side, we approach the famous castle of St. Angelo, connected with so 
 many outrages and factions that desolated Rome, but most interesting, perhaps, 
 because of the fact that in one of its gloomy cells the beautiful Beatrice de Cenci 
 lingered for many months; and near its massive, frowning walls, on the ninth of 
 September, 1599, she was beheaded. 
 29 
 
 ALTAR TO the; unknown god, ROME. 
 
450 around; THE WORI.D 
 
 There are 380 Catholic churches in Rome. As the Virgin Mary is the goddess 
 of the Romans, we are not surprised that many of these are dedicated to her; and 
 costly gifts of gold, silver and precious stones are laid on her altars. 
 
 The object of universal attraction in Rome is St. Peter's, the largest and most 
 famous church in the world. 
 
 That the circus of Nero should be the site of the greatest church in Christen- 
 dom is a suggestive fact. 
 
 As you stand at the opening on the wide plaza and look toward the immense 
 dome, you are struck with the unity of so vast a construction, which was 
 commenced iii 1450 and continued over two centuries and a half. 
 
 The approach to the church is made through a colonnade, semi-circular in 
 form, composed of 284 columns, set in four rows, and leaving between them a 
 central passage for carriages. 
 
 Beautiful fountains and the imposing obelisk of Caligula adorn the centre of 
 the plaza. 
 
 The fagade or front of the church, 357 feet wide and 144 feet high, is a 
 disappointment. It conceals the fine proportions of the remainder of the building- 
 and destroys the effect of the magnificent dome. Let us enter. In Italy they da 
 not shut the churches by a system of small doors. Giving a literal interpretation 
 to the saying: "My Father's house is always open," they are content with a 
 curtain. In passing through the doorway of St. Peter's you push aside a large 
 double leather curtain, with lead at the foot of it. 
 
 You enter as if you miraculously made a hole in the wall which instantly and 
 noiseles.sly closed up. 
 
 You are now dazzled with a mass of splendor, as you face the nave, 600 feet 
 long, 100 feet wide and nearly 450 feet to the ceiling of the dome. The floor is 
 paved with marble of various colors; the walls are adorned with pictures in mosaic 
 and statues in full or in bold relief, all of colossal size. 
 
 On either side of the nave there are five or six chapels used for ordinary 
 worship, and each is as capacious as one of our good-sized churches. 
 
 The Cathedral can contain 60,000 people. Within these walls we can count 
 44 altars, 748 columns, and a council of 389 statues. 
 
 There are three objects of leading interest. 
 
 We pass the bronze statue of St. Peter, revered by Roman Catholics more 
 than any statue in the world; and to be convinced of the attention paid it, you 
 need only look at the toe, which has been polished bright by the kisses of the 
 devotees. 
 
 At the bottom of the nave the eye is attracted to the front of the ma.ster-altar, 
 at the foot of which are the eighty-seven lamps perpetually burning on the circular 
 balustrade of the confessional, where it is said the body of St. Peter lies. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 451 
 
 Before the altar over the grave only the Pope says mass. 
 
 Above the altar is a most elaborately decorated canopy supported by four 
 twisted columns, ninety feet high, made of bronze, brought from the Pantheon. 
 All Catholics regard it as a great privilege to worship at this confessional. Just 
 beyond, in the midst of a glory, the chair of St. Peter is pointed out to you. It 
 is supported by four colossal figures of bronze and gold, which represent two 
 fathers of the L,atin and two of the Greek Church. 
 
 The chair that you look upon is only an outside case, containing the curate 
 seat of Egyptian 
 wood faced with 
 ivory, which is said 
 to have been given 
 by the Senator Pru- 
 dens to his guest, 
 the Apostle Peter. 
 The Vatican (from 
 Vates, a prophet, 
 because here was 
 believed to have 
 been the site of the 
 Etruscan divina- 
 tion) is the palace 
 of the Popes, and 
 is located near St. 
 Peter's. 
 
 It is not one 
 building, but a 
 group of buildings, 
 dating from differ- 
 ent periods, but as 
 such it is the largest 
 palace in the world, 
 1 1 5 1 feet long by 
 
 767 wide, containing, it is said, 11,000 rooms. Just here, we have reason to think,, 
 were the gardens of Nero, where, as Tacitus writes, he put to death "an 
 immense multitude" of Christians, on the groundless charge of .setting fire to 
 Rome, and in awful mockery nailed them, clad in garments dipped in pitch, upon 
 stakes, and set fire to them. They tell you that St. Peter was crucified here. The 
 apartments occupied by the Pope are very plain. Immediately above them are the 
 rooms of the Cardinal Secretary of State. 
 
 The VATICAN, ROME. 
 
452 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 The Sistine Chapel, built in 1473, is the most famous of the apartments of 
 the Vatican; doubtless, because of the fact that the ceiling and altar wall were 
 frescoed by Michael Angelo. Upon the ceiling he put his wonderful series of 
 pictures from the Old Testament, extending from the first day of the creation to 
 the prophets : and upon the altar wall is the famous fresco, ' ' The Last Judgment. ' ' 
 
 The loggia (lodja) and stanza, different parts of the Vaticati, are associated 
 with the genius of Raphael, who painted and designed them. 
 
 The largest collection of antique statuary in the world is found in the Vatican ; 
 and such masterpieces in painting as Raphael's "Transfiguration" and Titian's 
 ' ' Madonna and Saints ' ' may be studied within its walls. 
 
 The Vatican Library contains more than 100,000 printed books; but that 
 which raises it above all other collections is the value and number of its manu- 
 scripts. Of these, there are over 27,000. Most precious, perhaps, of the 
 treasures of the Vatican is the Codex Vaticanus, designated B. It is written 
 on 759 leaves of very fine vellum (N. T. covers 142 of them)' in small uncial 
 letters in three colums of 42 lines each to a page, ten inches bj^ ten inches and 
 4 half. 
 
 It was carried to France by Napoleon I., but restored after his fall. 
 
 Besides this there are 18 Slav manuscripts, 10 from China, 22 from India, 
 i3 from America; 80 in Coptic and i from Samaria; 72 from Ethiopia; 590 of 
 Hebrew origin and 459 of Syrian; 64 from Turkey; 787 from Arabia and 65 from 
 I'ersia, illustrated with fine miniatures. In the great libraries of the world like 
 ■the Bodleian at Oxford and the library in the British Museum you are overwhelmed 
 "by the sight of the great mass of books, which are piled up over your head 
 in endless walls; at the Vatican, on the contrary, you do not see a single volume. 
 The collection is under cover of a multitude of shut and gilded presses. 
 
 But we must cross the Tiber again and stand for a moment in a bit of narrow 
 valley, which was, within small compass, the most imposing spot in the universe, 
 pierhaps. 
 ' Here gathered, during the turning points of Roman history, the brains of the 
 Roman Empire; here dramas have been unfolded, which threw both light and 
 shadow upon more than one empire. The entire history of the most renowned 
 of people worked itself out on the scene of the Roman Forum, the soul and 
 sanctuary of Rome. We know where the Forum was; but only a portion of the 
 place has been exposed by excavations; much of this historic spot is still covered 
 by four and twenty feet of ruins. 
 
 It was at the entry of the Forum where we now staijd, that the Piso lived 
 whom Agrippina accused of having poisoned Germanicus; and it was there where 
 he was assassinated, Tacitus tells us, at the instigation of Tiberius, who was com- 
 promised in the matter. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 453 
 
 What wondrous events, on a scene as narrow as that of a play-house, from 
 the days since Brutus showed there the dagger of Lucretia and Virginius bought 
 in the shops north of the Forum, down to the memorable occasion when the curia 
 was bxirnt before the body of Csesar. Just here was delivered some of the greatest 
 orations of ancient times; just here were enacted scenes in Roman history that 
 told both upon the rise and fall of the Roman Empire. 
 
 EXCAVATIONS OF THE FORUM, ITAI,Y. 
 
 Every step brings before you memorials of life and death; every broken 
 monument is an eloquent tongue, telling still the tale of mighty deeds and faded 
 glory; every crumbling wall seems to open before you, and through its black 
 bosom comes forth great spectres of history, that remind us of the decay and 
 death of human honor, hopes and happiness. 
 
 Passing along the via Sacra under the celebrated Arch of Titus, leaving the 
 Arch of Constantine on the one hand, and the remains of the pool in which the 
 gladiators washed after their bloody combats, on the other, we reach the 
 
454 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD' 
 
 Coliseum, regarded by many as the most august and imposing ruin in the world. 
 Excepting the Pyramids of Egypt, the world agrees in this opinion. 
 
 It was commenced by Vespasian in A. D. 72, and completed by Titus after 
 his return from the conquest of Jerusalem. Twelve thousand Jews were employed 
 in its construction. The exterior was adorned by three rows of columns, Doric, 
 Ionic and Corinthian, some of which are in excellent preservation. It is about 
 620 feet long, 513 feet wide, 157 feet high, 1641 feet in circuit and could accom- 
 modate 100,000 
 persons. There are 
 four stories of dif- 
 erent orders of 
 architecture, and if 
 is open at the top. 
 Here it was that 
 Ignatius was mar- 
 tyred; here many 
 early Christians 
 were beheaded, 
 burned and torn to 
 pieces by wild 
 beasts. 
 
 Another scene 
 of quite a different 
 character is recalled 
 to mind as we look 
 upon this arena, 
 the death-bed of .so 
 nianj'- Christians. 
 
 Beneath the 
 
 ancient Rome, 
 
 along the fifteen 
 
 consular roads 
 
 which radiated from the capitol as centre, there existed in the early centuries 
 
 twenty-six great catacombs, which answer to the number of parishes at that time. 
 
 Pagan Rome was simply mined by these underground cemeteries, there being 
 
 360 miles of winding ways among the ashes and skeletons of the dead. 
 
 It is estimated that these leagues of galleries contain no less than six million 
 of the dead. 
 
 Passing through a wild garden some two miles from the heart of Rome, we 
 descended .some thirty steps, and penetrated a series of narrow corridors, one after 
 
 The COLI.SKUM, ROME. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 455 
 
 another, cut at right angles and intricate like a net-work of lanes. With taper in 
 hand, following an old bent monk, we walked for hours through these strange 
 caverns of the dead. 
 
 The use of catacombs as cemeteries long preceded the Christian era. Pliny 
 informs us that the practice of incineration was not very ancient, and that many 
 great families had preserved the custom of burying the dead. 
 
 Salust had under his garden catacombs, with chambers for the dead. Moving 
 through these narrow, low and never-ending passages, where the air is made thick 
 by the smoke of torches, the tombs of martyrs and heroes draw one's attention 
 specially. It is easy to make these out, for when the grave-makers closed them, 
 they fastened in the cement by the side of the head a narrow-necked vessel of 
 glass in which the blood of the confessor had been collected. You can see, on 
 nearly every hand, the mark and often the fragments of these vessels. When 
 the martyrs had been drowned, burned or put to death without spilling of blood, 
 then, in sealing up the burial place, the workman with the point of his trowel 
 drew in the fresh mortar a rude sketch of a palm tree, and a number of these are 
 to be seen. 
 
 Occasionally we recognize the calcined bones of a martyr burnt alive, and it 
 sometimes happens that the bones are crystallized to such a degree as to shine. In 
 the Catacombs of St. Callistus the paintings are more numerous than in any other. 
 You frequently see the anchor, the dove, the ship, the fish, whose Greek name 
 recalls that of Christ and furnishes the initials of the formula: "Jesus Christ, Son 
 of God, Saviour " (J'qaouz Xptazbz ' deou ']':«; I'turrji-)) and many other symbols. 
 Some of the epitaphs are very interesting. One in Greek reads thus: " Here was 
 laid to sleep Gorgonius, whom all loved and who hated none." Here is one in 
 Latin: " Too soon hast thou fallen, Constantia: Admirable for beauty and for her 
 charms, she lived 18 j^ears 6 months and 16 days. Constantia in peace." 
 
 Over a picture of a man swinging a pickaxe the following inscription can be 
 traced: " Diogenes the Grave-digger, in Peace." 
 
 But we must blow out our tapers and stand in the sunlight before the most 
 perfect ruin in Rome. 
 
 The Pantheon, finished by Agrippa just before the birth of Christ, is fronted 
 by a portico, which rests on sixteen enormous monolithic columns of oriental 
 granite, crowned by the finest capitals, which Rome has bequeathed to us. 
 Beneath the magnificent dome the bodies of Raphael and Victor Emmanuel rest. 
 A monument raised at the dawn of the age of Augustus, and at the end of the 
 Republic must be regarded with great interest; but we must hurry on. We have 
 only time to glance at the celebrated Tarpeian Rock, which forms the southern 
 portion of the Capitoline Hill, and from whose rugged height it was customary to 
 hurl persons condemned for treason; and the imposing looking house of Rienzi, 
 
456 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 the last of the Tribunes, whose crusade recalls to one's mind the Gracchi, the 
 Brutuses and the Scipios, as we make our way toward the most famous highway, 
 spoken of in the profane and sacred history. Appius Claudius, after digging the 
 first aqueduct to direct the waters of Praeneste on Rome, opened and paved what 
 is known as the Appian Way, 310 years before our era. This road is broad and 
 very straight, with remains, quite visible, of paths and open spaces in Gothic 
 pavement. The grass is green on the way, but the track of this most splendid of 
 all historical promenades, remains definitely marked with melancholy grandeur, 
 by two avenues of mausoleums in ruins, in every shape and size, which may be 
 counted by thousands. Seneca's tomb is here pointed out. From the last chapter 
 
 of Acts we have rea- 
 son to think that on 
 some of the stones of 
 this highway the feet 
 of the Apostle Paul 
 pressed, on his way to 
 Rome and to a mar- 
 tyr' s death. TIhe 
 place where the great 
 Apostle was tried, the 
 cell in which he was 
 imprisoned, and the 
 place of his execution 
 are all pointed out by 
 your agreeable and 
 instructive guide. 
 
 Before turning 
 from these scenes 
 which recall so many 
 facts and fables that are weaved into the history of Rome, let us mount a noble 
 terrace, near the spot where St. Peter is said to have been crucified, and take a 
 general view of the city and its surroundings. As described by another : 
 
 ' ' Rome is only a foreground of the picture, for the view extends toward the 
 north over the plains, reaching as far as the Apennines. Toward th"e southeast at 
 the foot of the Alban mountains it embraces those plains of the old Latium, where 
 many a heroic battle was fought and won. The sun, ready to set behind us in the 
 Mediterranean Sea, inflamed with its twilight purple the domes, towers, pinnacles, 
 and palaces, as well as the volcanic mounds scattered at the foot of the chains and 
 over the plateaux. Between these two extreme points, the blue-tinged moun- 
 tains, the city glowing and ruddy in the midst of the bronze zone of its Byzantine 
 
 TEMPLE OF MINERVA, ROME. 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 457 
 
 vi^alls, lay stretched before us a mixture of verdure and russet outlines, the country 
 (^ossed by aqueducts, covered by ancient villas, and pierced by long roads of old 
 renown, marked out and lined with tombs. 
 
 ' ' The yellow Tiber winds at our feet like a track of sand; going up toward the 
 horizon it melts on one side in the azure of the sky, on the other in the fires of 
 the setting sun. 
 
 "We now leave this museum of all ages. It may look with indifferent eye 
 upon our revolutions, upon our institutions of a day: its glory, which has already 
 defied so many ruins, will see new ones, but it has not to dread the fainting 
 memory of men. So long as society stands Rome will remain the Urbs, the city 
 of cities, the native land of arts, the sanctuary of incomparable memories, the 
 hdme of, a people whose character, whose history, whose destiny stand unique 
 through the current of the centuries," 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 GENOA AND GIBRALTAR. 
 
 S one approaches Genoa by sea he can readily imagine why she 
 was called Genoa la Superba, when she was in the height of 
 her power. 
 
 From the deck of your steamer, for miles awaj', through 
 your marine glasses, you can see the city rising like an 
 amphitheatre, with its two converging moles, its encircling 
 fortifications, its piles of palaces, its promenades and gardens 
 and the verdureless summits of the Apennines and the ice- 
 ■covered peaks of the Alps in the background. 
 
 On closer examination you find that it is one of the best fortified cities of 
 Europe, for not only is the large semicircular harbor defended by moles, but the 
 •city is entirely surrounded by a double wall, the smaller encircling the inner city 
 Tjy ramparts, detached forts, redoubts and extensive outworks. 
 
 Although I had visited the city some years since, I decided to spend another 
 week within her walls, studying more carefully her people and palaces. 
 
 Nearly all of the streets are narrow, irregular and steep, paved with smooth 
 slabs of lava, with a pathway of different material in the centre for beasts of 
 burden; but certain modern streets are wide, well paved and compare favorably 
 with the chief thoroughfares of other commercial cities. Many of the palaces do 
 not retain their former artistic riches, but they all display splendid architectural 
 •designs and the internal and external frescoes are well worth studjdng. 
 
 The Palaces of the Doges. 
 
 The Palazzo Doria, overlooking the sea, constructed in 1529 by the renowned 
 Doria, prince of Melfi, while it is almost abandoned, retains striking evidences of 
 its past beauty and richness; and the ducal palace restored in 1778 after designs 
 by Simone Carlone, formerly the depository of famous works of art, is elaborately 
 decorated, and gives one a vivid idea of the glory of the reign of the Doges. 
 
 As my room was located a short distance from the via Doges, which is lined 
 on both sides with the palaces of these old rulers, my mornings were spent, under 
 the direction of a competent guide, in visiting these magnificent buildings. 
 
 You step immediately from the street on the ground floor of the palace, 
 which is composed of a wide, handsomely paved passage-way, with large rooms 
 
 (458) 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 459 
 
 ■on either side, and over winding stairways you ascend to a number of floors, 
 where the chambers occupied by the royalty are still in excellent preservation. 
 
 One of these palaces is now used as the hall of the town council, where a bust 
 and autograph letters of Columbus, the violin of Paganini and other interesting 
 objects are shown. 
 
 Wall paintings and elaborate room decorations were very popular during the 
 reign of the Doges, and some of these that are on exhibition in these palaces on 
 the via Doges cannot be excelled in the world. 
 
 The Republic of Qenoa. 
 
 In legendary traditions the history of Genoa can be traced to a time preceding 
 the foundation of Rome, At the beginning of the second Punic war, Livy men- 
 
 PANORAMA OF GENOA. 
 
 tions it as having friendly relations with the Romans, and during this war, having 
 been destroyed by a Carthaginian fleet, the Romans rebuilt it, and it afterward 
 became a Roman municipium. 
 
 Because of its location Genoa has been in all these centuries the centre of the 
 severest struggles on land and by sea. . During the rise and fall of the republic 
 its internal commotions, caused by the parties of the plebeians and patricians and 
 the external warfare in which it has been so often engaged with neighboring and 
 distant enemies, have been sources of continual perils and distractions. 
 
46o AROUND THE WORI.D 
 
 Party struggles assumed such a bad shape during the first half of the 
 fourteenth century that the dogate for life was instituted (1339) with the exclusion 
 of both parties. But there were ceaseless quarrels between the Doges and anti- 
 Doges under the Viscontis of Milan and under the rule of France, until, in 1528, 
 the celebrated Admiral Andrea Doria delivered the republic from the French and 
 established a new constitution, which lasted for many years. 
 
 This form of government was strictly aristocratic, and the nobility comprised 
 the Grimaldis, Fieschis, Dorias, Spinolas and many others whose names are 
 familiar to the student of Italian history. The Doge was elected for two years, 
 but the power of the State had long since departed and the beginning of the end 
 was fast approaching. 
 
 Its nodern History. 
 
 The first year of this century Genoa, under Massena, sustained a siege by 
 the Austrians and English, but the Austrians, who held it for a short while, were 
 obliged to relinquish it after the battle of Marengo. 
 
 After the coronation of Napoleon Bonaparte at Milan, the last of the Doges^ 
 Durazzo, went to that city and expressed the desire of the people for a change iii^ 
 government. The republic was merged in the French Empire and formed the 
 three new departments of Genoa, Montenotte and the Apennines. 
 
 This century has witnessed many bloody struggles and many pblitical 
 vicissitudes in the province of Genoa, and the picturesque city on the gulf iS- 
 associated with One of the most remarkable men of the age. 
 
 Reminiscences of Garibaldi. 
 
 In i860. Garibaldi, the Italian patriot, entered Sicily with 1000 volunteers. 
 Palermo and Messina were soon taken, and he became dictator of the island. In. 
 his attacks upon Austria he came in collision with his own government, and we 
 find him soon afterward planning his well-known invasion of Rome. 
 
 His career in the sixties, his association with Victor Emmanuel and the 
 subsequent change in the Italian government are of too recent occurrence to need 
 special mention. 
 
 Perhaps it is not generally known that after his banishment from Sardinia, 
 Garibaldi came to New York in the .summer of 1850 and earned a living by making" 
 candles in a manufactory on Staten Island until he resumed his occupation of a 
 mariner. Some years later he returned to New York in command of a Peruvian bark, 
 and in 1867, when he was imprisoned during one of his raids in Italy, he protested 
 as an Italian deputy, audit was an American citizen who effected his release. 
 
 While he was planning his attack upon Rome, an excited crowd gathered in 
 one of the plazas in Genoa determined to compass his death, and I saw the little 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 40 r 
 
 shop into which Garibaldi entered, and having exchanged his uniform for the 
 dress of the shopkeeper, passed out through the maddened multitude and made 
 good his escape. 
 
 It is a source of great interest and pleasure to leisurely saunter through the 
 narrow, overshadowed streets of old Genoa; to look up the long vista of the lanes 
 and alleys, where the protrud- 
 ing bay windows nearly touch 
 each other; to catch the scent 
 of the numerous roof gar- 
 dens, where the poorest fam- 
 ilies have their brilliant flowers 
 and graceful vines, and to 
 drop into an old curio shop 
 here or a studio of a strug- 
 gling, but gifted artist there, 
 and deal in small barterings 
 or still smaller chat. All 
 Italians are willing to sell, but 
 they are anxious to talk. 
 
 Home of Christopher 
 Columbus. 
 
 In one of my walks 
 through Genoa I found in a 
 most circuitous little street the 
 house owned for a while by 
 the parents of Christopher 
 Columbus, and where a brief 
 period of the great explorer's 
 boyhood was spent. It is 
 marked appropriately over the 
 door, and while I was trans- 
 lating the Italian sentences, 
 from the neighboring houses 
 a number of well-informed 
 persons saluted me, and within a short time I was the receptacle of a fund of 
 information that I am sure would haVe ' been startlingly novel to Christopher 
 himself. 
 
 Standing upon the deck of the magnificent German I^loyd steamer ' ' Kaiser 
 Wilhelm II." we waved adieu to our kind friends of Genoa on a beautiful 
 
 COLUMBUS MONUMENT, GENOA. 
 
462 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 morning, and passing over the calm waters of the gulf, as the crown of the queenly 
 city was lost to view, we turned our course toward Southern Spain. 
 
 Strait of Gibraltar. 
 
 The Mediterranean was on its best behavior, and, in due time, we were ia 
 the swift current of the Strait of Gibraltar, which connects the Atlantic and the 
 Mediterranean and lies between the southernmost part of Spain, from Cape 
 Europa to Cape Trafalgar, and the African coast from Centapoint on the east to 
 Cape Spartel on the west. The extreme length of the strait is about thirty-six 
 miles, and the narrowest point is only nine miles. 
 
 It is estimated that the greatest depth of the water is 960 fathoms, and where 
 the two continents are close together there is a strong central current, from three 
 to five miles an hour, setting in constantly from the ocean to the sea. Two 
 smaller currents, one along each shore, ebb and flow with the tide, passing 
 alternately into the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. 
 
 Both nature and art have done much to make Gibraltar the most impregnable 
 citadel in the world. The great rock forms a promontory three miles long from 
 north to south, and about seven miles in circumference. It is connected with the 
 mainland of Spain by a flat, sandy isthmus not more than one and a half miles 
 long and three-quarters of a mile wide. Across this strip of land two rows of 
 sentry boxes mark the Spanish and Engli.sh lines, the "neutral ground" being: 
 the space between them. 
 
 The Fortress. 
 
 The material of the rock is gray primary limestone and marble. Its highest 
 point is between fourteen hundred and fifteen hundred feet above the sea. The 
 north, east and west sides of the rock are so steep as to be nearly inaccessible; and 
 it is perforated by a large number of caverns, many of which cannot be easily 
 entered and show remarkable formations. 
 
 The view of Gibraltar from the sea would lead you to infer that it was 
 entirely barren, but upon closer inspection you find that its surface is covered by 
 acacia, fig, orange trees, a large variety of odoriferous plants and numerous wild 
 shrubs. It is said that the only wild monkeys in Europe are found here, and all 
 those seen were of a fawn color and tailless. 
 
 The value of Gibraltar as a strategic point caused it to be a bone of contention 
 during many centuries. Under the Spanish crown it was so fortified as to be 
 regarded as impregnable; but in 1704 it was taken by a combined effort of the 
 English and Dutch fleet, and it was confirmed to Great Britain by the treaty of 
 Utrecht. 
 
 Since this time besiegers from different nations have brought to bear, both by 
 land and sea, all the resources of war against the rock, but the " Union Jack'" 
 
WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 
 
 463; 
 
 has floated victoriously over the crash of the cannonading and the boom of 
 bombardment after bombardment. 
 
 A Necessity for England. 
 
 To the casual observer it is apparent why England prizes this position. It is 
 the key to the Mediterranean; and as a coaling station, a depot for war material 
 and a port of refuge, it is a necessity for Great Britain in connection with her East 
 Indian possessions. 
 
 A garrison of from four to six thousand men, at an annual expense of more 
 than a million of dollars is supported here, and it is quite impossible to tell how 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 many thousands of pounds are appropriated every now and then to strengthen this 
 watch tower on her highway to Egypt, Ceylon, Australia and India. 
 
 The sides of the gigantic rock are honeycombed with connecting caves,, 
 supplied with cannon, commanding every approach by land and sea. Many of 
 the natural caves are used to fortify the place more strongly, but nature is aided 
 by every appliance of military art. 
 
 Guns are stationed in secret places, and on certain parts of the rock no one is 
 allowed to go except the officers and regiments in charge. 
 
 I was pointed to a beautiful spot, where the verbenas, the heliotrope and 
 blooming heath bedecked the rock, and behind these flowers I was informed there 
 was a screened battery — brazen-throated cannons awaiting to crush the flowers of 
 nations in times of war. 
 
464 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The Town. 
 
 There is nothing specially attractive about the town of Gibraltar. It lies on 
 a shelving ledge on the west side of the rock. The main, or Waterport street, is 
 well paved and lighted. The principal buildings are the residences of the 
 governor arid lieutenant-governor, the admiralty, naval hospital and storehouses; 
 and during j'our walk on the chief thoroughfare, as you pass English, Portuguese, 
 Moorsj Spaniards^ Italians and Maltese, you are impressed by the mixed character 
 of the population. 
 
 Among the many caves to be seen St. Michael's is the largest and most 
 interesting: It is more than a thousand feet above the sea level and contains 
 great halls and chambers sixty feet high and two or three hundred feet long. 
 
 The rioorish Castle. 
 
 But to the student ofantiquity nothing on Gibraltar posse.sses more attraction-. 
 than the old Moorish castle that is located halfway up the steep precipice on the 
 west side of the rock. 
 
 For more than seven hundred yeai's the Moors held swaj- over Gibraltar; and 
 this old relic of the barbaric ages stands here alone as a grim reminder of their 
 power and prowess. 
 
 In girdling the globe, Spain was the last countrj- visited, and after touching 
 some of the picturesque islands washed by the waters of the Atlantic, with 
 inexpressible joy and gratitude, after so many months of peril and pleasure in 
 studying the wonders of the world, I took my course toward the land of my love 
 with the words of De Belloy on my lips and in my heart : ' ' The more I saw of 
 foreign lands, the more I loved my own."