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 John Eveyn in Naples, 1645 
 
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 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924027989130 
 
JOHN EVELYN IN NAPLES 
 
London Agents : 
 SIMPKIN, MARSHALL & CO., LIMITED 
 
JOHN EVELYN 
 IN NAPLES 
 
 1645 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 H. MAYNARD SMITH 
 
 OXFORD 
 B. H. BLACKWELL, BROAD STREET 
 
 I ) I ' MCMXIV 
 
 ^ 
 
PREFACE 
 
 For some years I have been accumulating materials 
 for an edition of Evelyn's Diary, not with the idea 
 of making that v^ork more readable, but v^ith the 
 intention of providing a work of reference for all 
 those who are interested in the seventeenth century- 
 its life, religion, learning, and art ; its social customs 
 and ways of looking at things. Evelyn was not a 
 genius ; he was emphatically a man of his own age. 
 He was alive to all that was going on ; in touch with 
 statesmen, artists, scientists, and theologians ; a dili- 
 gent observer of all that was to be seen ; and his 
 judgment as a rule represents the best opinion of 
 his time. 
 
 At the age of twenty-four he visited Naples, and 
 has left us in a few pages an admirable account of 
 what tourists went to see in 1645. I have illus- 
 trated his descriptions by quotations from other 
 seventeenth - century travellers. I have tried to 
 identify all that he saw, to note the changes that 
 have taken place, and to provide materials by which 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 the tourist of to-day may compare his own outlook 
 with that of a young gentleman two hundred and 
 seventy years ago. 
 
 We weary at times of the most accurate guide- 
 books, and this pamphlet is published in the hope 
 that it may interest some who have time to spare 
 after visiting the Museum, the Aquarium, Pompeii, 
 and the Blue Grotto. They may spend some happy 
 afternoons in following John Evelyn about the city, 
 or by sailing in his wake from Pozzuoli to Misenum. 
 After dinner at Bertolini's, or Parker's Hotel, they 
 may have fresh information to give fellow tourists, 
 information unknown to the student of Baedeker, 
 and not to be obtained from a local cicerone. At 
 any rate, as will be seen from the notes, the editor 
 has found it interesting to compare the information 
 of Baedeker with that of Evelyn and his contem- 
 poraries. 
 
 H. MAYNARD SMITH. 
 
 August^ 1913- 
 
 VI 
 
SOME ENGLISH TRAVELLERS AND 
 
 THEIR BOOKS 
 
 Fynes Moryson (1566-1630) was a Fellow of Peterhouse, 
 Cambridge, and a great traveller. He visited Naples in 
 1595 and published his Itinerary in 1617 in a folio volume, 
 from which my quotations are made. He wrote the first 
 part originally in Latin, and the manuscript, never pub- 
 lished, is now in the British Museum. 
 
 George Sandys (i 578-1644), the poet, was the youngest son 
 of the Archbishop of York. He was travelUng from 
 1610 to 1615, and visited Naples on his return from 
 Egypt and Palestine. I am enabled to quote from the 
 first edition of his travels, published in 1615, thanks to 
 the kindness of the Bishop of Worcester, who allows me 
 access to the Hurd Library. 
 
 William Lithgow (i 582-1645) was born at Lanark, and for 
 nineteen years was a traveller. He visited Naples in 
 1610, 1613, and 1616. His Rare Adventures were pub- 
 lished in London in 1632. His extravagant style, self- 
 conceit, and obvious exaggerations detract from the value 
 of his book. My quotations are made from the reprint 
 of Messrs. Maclehose of Glasgow. 
 
 James Howell (1594-1666) was a traveller, man of letters 
 and finally historiographer to Charles H. He was in 
 Naples in 162 1. My quotations are derived from the 
 
 vii 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 seventh edition (1705) of his Familiar Letters, and also 
 from Arber's reprint of his Instructions for Forreine 
 Travel. 
 
 Anonymous. — In volume v. of the Harleian Miscellany is 
 A True Description and Direction of what is most worthy 
 to be seen in all Italy. From internal evidence it is clear 
 that it was written some years before Evelyn visited 
 Italy. 
 
 John Bargrave (16 10-1680) was ejected from his Fellow- 
 ship at Peterhouse in 1643, and spent several years in 
 Italy, where Evelyn met him {Diary, May 13, 1672). He 
 published a curious and rather scandalous work, Pope 
 Alexander VI L and the College of Cardinals, which has 
 been reprinted in the Camden Society, together with a 
 catalogue of his museum. 
 
 John Raymond was the nephew of Bargrave, who visited 
 Naples in May, 1646. His book, // Merciirio Italico 
 (1648), is for our purposes especially important, as it was 
 undoubtedly in Evelyn's hands when he wrote up the 
 account of his travels. 
 
 Richard Lassels (1603-1658) was a Roman priest and tutor 
 who took several young gentlemen on the Grand Tour. 
 He made five journeys through Italy ; but his Voyage of 
 Italy was not published until two years after his death 
 by his old friend, Simon Wilson. The first edition was 
 printed in Paris, but my quotations are from an English 
 edition of 1686. A dozen years later a new edition was 
 printed, with augmentations and suppressions by a very 
 inferior hand. 
 
 Edward Browne (1644-1708) was the elder son of Sir 
 Thomas Browne, and, like his father, a doctor of 
 medicine. He travelled a great deal, and wrote more 
 than one book, but my quotations are from his letters, 
 published in Bohn's edition of Sir Thomas Browne's 
 works. Edward Browne was in Naples in 1666. 
 
 viii 
 
Some English Travellers and their Books 
 
 Gilbert Burnet (1643-1715) visited Naples in 1685 or 1686. 
 Political reasons made his absence from England de- 
 sirable. He described his journeys in a series of letters 
 addressed to Robert Boyle. My quotations are taken 
 from an edition published in 1750. 
 
 James Drummond, the second Jacobite Duke of Perth 
 (1675-1720), was in Naples in 1693. His letters have been 
 printed in the Camden Society. 
 
 Francis Maximilian Missox (1650 ?~i722) was a refugee 
 Huguenot who went as tutor with Charles Butler, after- 
 wards Earl of Arran, on the Grand Tour (1687-1688). 
 As a result he published at the Hague, in 1691, Le Nouvcau 
 Voyage d'lialie, in two volumes. This was subsequently 
 enlarged, and the edition in my possession (1702) is in 
 three volumes. The work was translated into EngUsh 
 and further enlarged, with controversial additions by the 
 author, and my references are to the English edition 
 of I 7 14. 
 
 Joseph Addison (1672-17 19) visited Naples in 1701. I quote 
 from the second edition of his Remarks upon Italy y printed 
 in 1718. 
 
 Bishop Berkeley was in Naples in 1717. I quote from the 
 quarto edition of his works, published in 1784. I regret 
 not having seen until too late Professor Eraser's edition 
 of his works. 
 
 IX 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PREFACE - - - - - V 
 SOME ENGLISH TRAVELLERS AND THEIR BOOKS vii 
 
 I. ARRIVAL IN NAPLES — S. ELMO - - - I 
 
 II. THE CASTEL NUOVO AND PORT - - 3 
 
 III. CHURCHES OF NAPLES - - - - 6 
 
 IV. PALACES, A MUSEUM, AND THE VICEROY - 12 
 
 V. VESUVIUS - - - - - 17 
 
 VI. VIRGIL's TOMB — POSILIPO — THE GROTTO 
 
 VECCHIO - - - - '■23 
 
 VII. THE GROTTO DEL CANE - - -27 
 
 VIII. SOLFATARA - - - - '3^ 
 
 IX. POZZUOLI - - - - - 35 
 
 X. POZZUOLI AND THE BAY OF BAI^ - " 3^ 
 
 XL AVERNUS — CUMA — BAGNI DI TRITOLA - " 4^ 
 
 XII. BAI.E AND BAULI - - - * 47 
 
 XIII. MISENUM - - - ' - 50 
 
 XIV. BACK TO NAPLES - - - - 53 
 XV. NAPLES - - - - -55 
 
 INDEX - - - - - - 61 
 
 LIST OF AUTHORITIES - - - -65 
 
 XI 
 
JOHN EVELYN IN NAPLES, 
 
 tA44 
 
 ARRIVAL IN NAPLES— S. ELMO 
 
 Jan, sist, — About noone we enter'd the citty of 
 Naples, alighting at the 3 Kings, where we found 
 the most plentifull fare all the tyme we were in 
 Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheape ; we 
 seldom sat downe to fewer than 18 or 20 dishes of 
 exquisite meat and fruites. The morrow after o^ 
 arrival, in the afternoone, we hired a coach to carry 
 us about the towne. First we went to the castle of 
 St. Elmo, built on a very high rock, whence we had 
 an entire prospect of the whole citty, which lyes in 
 shape of a theatre upon the sea brinke, with all the 
 circumjacent islands, as far as Capreae, famous for 
 the debauched excesses of Tiberius. This fort is the 
 bridle of the whole citty, and was well stor'd and 
 garrison 'd with native Spanyards. The strangenesse 
 of the precipice and rarenesse of the prospect of so 
 many magnificent and stately palaces, churches, and 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 monasteries, w^^ the Arsenell, the Mole, and Mount 
 Vesuvius in the distance, all in full com'and of 
 y*" eye, make it one of the richest landskips in the 
 world. 
 
 * The inns had apparently improved, for Fynes Moryson 
 (i. 112) writes : ** Near the market place are many inns, but 
 poor and bare : for howsoever the city aboundeth with houses 
 where they give lodging and meat, yet it deserves no praise 
 for fair inns where they give good entertainment." The author 
 in the Harl. Misc. (v. 33) advises tourists : " When you 
 come into this famous city, enquire for the Black Eagle ; the 
 host is a Dutchman (German), who will appoint one to go 
 about and show you what is to be seen." 
 
 2 Provisions in Naples. — Lassels (ii. 177) writes : ** Were but 
 the taxes taken off or reasonably moderated, Naples would be 
 the cheapest and richest place in the world." In May, 1646, a 
 tax was placed on fruit, which led to the rising under Mas'anielo. 
 Towards the end of the century, Burnet (p. 193) writes : "The 
 town is well supplied by daily markets, so that the provisions 
 are ever fresh and in great plenty. The wine is the best in 
 Europe, and both flesh and iish are extreme good." 
 
 ^ S. Elmo. — It probably derives its name from S. Eremo, 
 the holy retreat of the Carthusians. It was erected by Robert 
 the Wise in 1343, but rebuilt by Pedro de Toledo. Lassels 
 (ii. 177) remarks : ** It stands well upon its own guard, by 
 reason of its high situation. But I doubt if it can offend 
 any enemy, except Naples itself, which is under it." " By 
 reason of this fort," says the Harleian writer, *' the Neapolitans 
 are bridled that they dare not rise in rebellion. . . . There is 
 not one palace in the city, but hath a piece of ordnance aimed 
 thereat from the fort ; and if any in the same do but begin to 
 mutiny, it is, in the twinkling of an eye, battered down." 
 
 ^ Capri and Tiberius. — In a.d. 26 Tiberius was persuaded by 
 Sejanus to retire to Capri, and he lived there until within a few 
 weeks of his death in a.d. 37. He covered the island with 
 palaces and gardens. Horrible tales of his debauchery are 
 told by Suetonius, who cannot, however, be imphcitly trusted. 
 
II 
 
 THE CASTEL NUOVO AND PORT 
 
 Hence we descended to another strong castle, 
 cal'd II Castello Nuovo, which protects the shore, but 
 they would by no intreaty permit us to go in ; the 
 outward defence seemes to consist but in four towers, 
 very high, and an exceeding deepe graft with thick 
 walls. Opposite to this is the Toure of St. Vincent, 
 w^^ is also very strong. 
 
 Then we went to the very noble palace of the 
 Viceroy, partly old and part of a newer work, but 
 we did not stay long here. Towards y® evening we 
 tooke the ayre upon the Mole, a streete on the ram- 
 part or banke, rays'd in y® sea for security of their 
 galleys in port, built as that of Genoa. Here I ob- 
 served a riche fountaine in the middle of the piazza, 
 and adorned with divers rare statues of copper repre- 
 senting the Sirens or Deities of Parthenope, spout- 
 ing large streames of water into an ample shell, all 
 of cast metall, and of great cost ; this stands at the 
 entrance of y^ Mole, where wee mett many of the 
 nobility both on horseback and in their coaches to 
 take the fresco from the sea, as the manner is, it 
 being the most advantageous quarter for good ayre, 
 
 3 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 delight and prospect. Here we saw divers goodly 
 horses who handsomly become their riders, the 
 Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces 
 in length, and paved with a square hewn stone. 
 
 ^ Cast el Niiovo was built for Charles I. of Anjou (1279- 1283) 
 by Pierre D'Angicourt. It was enlarged by Alphonso I. of 
 Aragon, who held his Court there. Pedro de Toledo strength- 
 ened its fortifications and transferred to it the Courts of Justice. 
 Originally outside the city, it has come to have a central 
 position. When Fynes Moryson visited Naples it was open 
 to inspection. He tells us (i. iii) that the castle was '' among 
 the chief forts of Europe. The inward gate is most fair, all 
 of marble, and it hath a little foursquare hall, in which the 
 Parliaments are yearly held, and the Viceroys weekly sit in 
 judgment. Near this hall is a tower in which the kingly 
 ornaments are laid up, etc." 
 
 * Tower of S, Vincent, — Fynes Moryson (i. iii) mentions this 
 tower, now no more, ** where they set light by night to guide 
 seamen into the harbour." The writer in the Harl. Misc, 
 describes it as " standing in the sea as in an island," and tells 
 how the Spaniards failed to capture it, and the French garrison 
 finally evacuated the place with all the honours of war. The 
 great mole of Porto Grande, not built until the last century, is 
 dedicated to San Vincenzo. 
 
 "^ The Palace of the Viceroy^ now the Palazzo Reale, was 
 designed by Domenico Fontana in 1600, when the Count of 
 Lermos was Viceroy. The writer in the HarL Misc. notes 
 the number of the Spanish guards without and of the German 
 guards within. He tells (v. 33) how " the Viceroy doth give 
 audience every Thursday." Two years after Evelyn's visit, 
 the Duke of Aixos pleaded from one of the balconies with the 
 insurgents under Mas'anielo. He pleaded in vain. The mob 
 sacked the palace. In 1837 it was much damaged by fire, but 
 has been restored. 
 
 8 The Mole, *' hke an artificial street casting itself into the 
 sea" (Raymond, p. 139). It was constructed by Charles II. 
 of Anjou in 1302, and enlarged by Alphonso I. of Aragon. 
 
 4 
 
The Castel Nuovo and Port 
 
 Down to the nineteenth century it was a favourite promenade 
 where the Cantastori sang, recited, and gesticulated. 
 
 * The Fountain has been removed to the Villa Nazionale. 
 The statues are by Geronimo D'Auria. 
 
 ^^ The Sirens were sea-nymphs with the wings of birds and 
 faces of women. By their songs they lured sailors to destruc- 
 tion. In Homer they were found near Scylla and Charybdis. 
 The Latin poets assigned them to the Campanian coast. In 
 the story of the Argonauts, Orpheus outsang them, and they 
 were turned into stone. They were then by poets identified 
 with the rocky islands between Sorrento and Capri. 
 
Ill 
 
 CHURCHES OF NAPLES 
 
 From the Mole we ascend to a Church of great 
 antiquity, formerly sacred to Castor and Pollux, as 
 the Greeke letters carv'd on the architrave and the 
 busts of their two statues testify. It is now con- 
 verted into a stately oratory by the Theatines. 
 
 The cathedrall is a most magnificent pile, and 
 except St. Peter's in Rome, Naples exceeds all cittys 
 for stately churches and monasteries. We were told 
 that this day the blood of St. Genuarius and his 
 head should be expos'd, and so we found it, but 
 obtained not to see the miracle of the boiling of this 
 blood. The next we went to see was St. Peter's, 
 richly adorn'd, the chapel especialy, where that 
 Apostle sayde Masse, as is testified on the walle. 
 
 After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they 
 shew'd us the crucifix that is reported to have sayd 
 these words to St. Thomas, *' Ben6 de me scripsisti 
 Thoma." Hence to the Padri Olivetani, famous for 
 the monument of the learned Alexand. ab Alexandre. 
 
 We proceeded the next day to visite the church 
 
 of S^^ Maria Maggiore, where we spent much time 
 
 in surveying the chapell of Joh. Jov. Pontanus, and 
 
 6 
 
Churches of Naples 
 
 in it the several and excellent sentences and epitaphs 
 on himselfe, wife, children, and friends, full of rare 
 witt and worthy of recording as we find them in 
 severall writers. In the same chapell is shew'd an 
 arme of Titus Livius w^ this epigraph : ** Titi Livij 
 brachium quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis impe- 
 travit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos hoc 
 in loco ponendum curavit." Climbing a steepe hill 
 we came to the monastery and church of the Car- 
 thusians from whence is a most goodly prospect 
 towards the sea and citty, the one full of gallys and 
 ships, the other of stately palaces, churches, monas- 
 teries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, 
 Mount Vesuvius smoaking, the Promontory of 
 Minerva and Misenum, Caprese, Prochyta, Ischia, 
 Pausilipe, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtlesse one of 
 the most divertisant and considerable vistas in 
 y^ world. The church is most elegantly built : the 
 very pavements of the common cloyster being all 
 layd w^^ variously polished marbles richly figur'd. 
 They shew'd us a massie crosse of silver much cele- 
 brated for the workmanship and carving, and sayd 
 to have been 14 yeares in perfecting. The quire also 
 is of rare arte ; but above all to be admir'd is the yet 
 unfinish'd church of the Jesuites, certainly if accom- 
 plish'd not to be equal'd in Europe, 
 
 11 The Theaiines = S.Faolo M^ggiove. The church was built 
 in 1539 by the Theatine Grimaldi on the site of a temple 
 dedicated to Castor and Pollux by Tiberius Julius Tarsus, a 
 freedman of Augustus. The ancient portico mentioned by 
 Evelyn was destroyed by the earthquake in 1688 (Misson, 
 i. 631). The inscription on the frieze is quoted by Raymond, 
 
 7 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 p. 141. Two Corinthian columns and part of the architrave 
 may still be seen. The Theatines were founded in the time of 
 Paul IV. by Giovanni Pietro Caraffa, Bishop of Teati, and take 
 their name from his see. 
 
 ^2 The Ditomo. — " The Domo is ancient, and'ftherefore out 
 of the mode a httle/' says Lassels (ii. 172). It is " but a mean 
 building, but hath a noble chapel and a vast treasure," says 
 Burnet (p. 187). It was begun by Charles of Anjou in 1272 
 on the site of a Temple of Neptune, and was completed by 
 Robert the V^ise in 1323. It was rebuilt by Alphonso I. in 
 1456 after an earthquake. Its ''noble chapel" had just been 
 finished when Evelyn visited it, and it is remarkable that he 
 says nothing on the subject. 
 
 '^ S. Januarins was the thirteenth Bishop of Beneventum, 
 who came to Naples during the Diocletian persecution to 
 encourage the Christians. Seized by Timotheus, the Prefect 
 of Campania, he was, according to his legend, first exposed 
 in the amphitheatre of Puteoli, but the wild beasts crouched 
 before him. He was then thrown into a furnace, but came 
 out unharmed. Finally, he was beheaded at Solfatara, Sep- 
 tember 19, 305. r 
 ^^ The Liquefaction of S, /anuar iris's Blood. — According to 
 the legend, S. Severe in the time of Constantine brought the 
 body of the martyr to Naples with two vials of his blood, 
 collected by a pious matron. The blood, we are told, liquefied 
 in the Bishop's hand when brought near to the martyr's head, 
 and has continued to liquefy in response to the prayers and 
 imprecations of Neapolitans ever since. It is, however, very 
 doubtful when the miracle was first known. Some authorities 
 say in the tenth century and some as late as the fourteenth. 
 "A French nobleman," says Lassels (ii. 172), " was converted 
 from Calvinism to the Catholic religion by the sight of this 
 wonder." The Jacobite Earl of Perth in 1696 had a special 
 exhibition in the hope of converting his sister by being able to 
 report a miracle. His prayers were answered, and he has left 
 a minute account of the occurrence {Letters to his Sister : C. S., 
 pp. 99 et seq.). Four years later Joseph Addison wrote that '' it 
 was one of the most bungHng tricks that I ever saw" (p. 149). 
 
 8 
 
Churches of Naples 
 
 ^^ 5. Pieiro a Maiella was a Gothic building erected by the 
 favourite of Charles II., Giovanni Pepino di Barletta, who died 
 in 13 16. This building has recently been demolished. 
 
 ^^ 5. Peter. — Cp. Lassels, ii. 173. According to tradition, 
 S. Peter landed at Sorrento and preached in Naples on his 
 way to Rome. Legend also asserts that he consecrated as 
 first Bishop of Naples S. Asprenus, the brother of S. Candida. 
 S. Candida, however, is now assigned to the sixth century. 
 
 *^ S. Domenico Maggiore, — A Gothic church erected by 
 Charles II. in 1289. It is strange that Evelyn does not men- 
 tion the sacristy, with the coffins of the House of Aragon. 
 
 ^^ S. Thomas Aquinas.— In the adjoining convent S. Thomas 
 had taught from 1272 until shortly before his death in 1274. 
 His lectures were attended by Charles I. of Anjou and all his 
 Court, and Aquinas was paid one ounce of gold per month. 
 The crucifix is now in the Capella del Crocefisso, where there 
 is a relief showing the miracle. Fra Giacomo Caserta relates 
 that he saw the saint lifted three feet from the floor while 
 praying, and heard a voice from the crucifix say : " Bene 
 scripsisti de Me, Thoma : quam ergo mercedem recipies ?" 
 to which the saint replied : *' Non aliam nisi Te." Fynes 
 Moryson (i. no), after relating this story, tells another of 
 S. Bernard, who, being praised by an image of Our Lady, 
 answered : " Let women be silent in the church, for it is not 
 permitted them to speak." Fynes Moryson was by nature 
 incapable of appreciating either story. 
 
 1^ Monte Oliveio, usually called S. Anna dei Lombardi. The 
 church was begun in 141 1 by Guerillo Origlia, the favourite 
 of King Ladislaus, and continued in the Early Renaissance 
 style by Andrea Circione. It is a flat-roofed basilica without 
 aisles, Domenico Fontana was buried here in 1627. In the 
 adjoining monastery Tasso was received in 1558, and there 
 wrote much of the Gertisalemme Liberata. Out of gratitude 
 he also wrote there his poem on LOrigine delta Congrcgazioue 
 di Monte Oliveto, Misson only tells us that the monks were 
 famous for the manufacture of soap, which they sold at 
 24 carlincs the pound. The Hart. Misc. notes that "all the 
 monks are of noble descent." 
 
 9 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ^^ Alexander ah Alexandro (1461-1523) was a Franciscan 
 learned in law and one of the best of early antiquaries. 
 Erasmus {Ep,y 373, ed. 1533) remarks : " He has known 
 everyone, but no one knows him " ; and Bayle confirms this 
 by noting how rarely he is mentioned by contemporaries. 
 However, he was more fortunate as to posthumous fame than 
 most of them. His Gentales Dies was first pubHshed in 1522. 
 Lassels (ii. 174) writes that " his ingenious book . . . gives 
 light to many books, by the marshaUing of a world of ancient 
 customs of the Romans." Tiraqueau, a French lawyer, was 
 his last and very competent editor. The best edition of his 
 work was published as late as 1673. 
 
 2^ S. Maria Maggiore. — This somewhat uninteresting church, 
 with the interesting chapel adjoining, has been pulled down. 
 
 ^2 S. Giovanni Evangelista del Pontano, — Pontanus, emu- 
 lating his friend Sanazzaro, built a Renaissance chapel of 
 black lava for himself, his family, and friends. Misson (i. 412) 
 transcribes four of the epitaphs, including the famous one on 
 Pontanus's wife. Moral sentences were also painted on the 
 pillars and between the windows. The half pagan, half 
 Christian poet, Compadre, was buried there in 1501. 
 
 ^^ Giovianni Gioviano Pontano was Secretary of State to 
 Ferdinand I., and succeeded Panormita in 147 1 as head of 
 the Neapolitan Academy, which he established at S. Domenico 
 in the old lecture hall of Aquinas. He was an historian, an 
 astronomer, and a Latin poet. His political and moral essays 
 were published in 1490. Aldus published his poems in 1514. 
 Some modern critics have preferred his verses to those of 
 Politian. His Historta Neapoliiana is in Graevius (Thesaurus, 
 vol. ix.). 
 
 2* The Arm of Livy. — In the early years of the fifteenth 
 century the Paduans asserted that they had discovered the 
 body of Livy in the Church of S. Justina. The body was 
 exhumed, and the remains exhibited over the gate of the 
 Salone (Blondus, //. Illusir., p. 185). The remains are now 
 said to be those of T. Livius Halys, a freedman of the 
 historian's family. 
 
 *^ Pa7iormiia. — Antonio Beccadelli (1394-1471) was of a 
 
 10 
 
Churches of Naples 
 
 Bolognese family. He was, however, born at Palermo, and 
 hence assumed the name of Panormita, by which he is best 
 known. An enthusiastic humanist, he is said to have sold a 
 farm for 112 golden scudi in order to buy the Codex of Livy, 
 which had belonged to Poggio. After living in several cities, 
 he settled at Naples under the patronage of Alphonso of 
 Aragon, and founded the Neapolitan Academy (Tiraboschi, 
 vi. 1103-1107). 
 
 ^^ The Church of the Carthusians. — S. Martino. It was begun 
 in 1325, but entirely rebuilt just before Evelyn's visit. '* The 
 Church is not large, but every part of it deserves admiration " 
 (Misson, i. 408). '* The most sumptuous thing in all Europe" 
 (Lassels, ii. 175). '* It is under the wing of the Castle of 
 S. Elmo, to put castles in mind that they ought to defend 
 religion " (ibid.). The monastery is now a museum. The 
 view : The Belvedere is a hexagonal room with balconies. 
 Lassels (ii. 176) : " We had as fine a prospect as Europe can 
 afford, not excepting that of Greenwich ; thought by Barclay 
 the best prospect in Europe." The Cloister "is one hundred 
 paces square : all the pavement is in marble inlaid in Rinceaux 
 and other ornaments of the like nature ; and the four galleries 
 are supported by sixty pillars of one entire piece, of fine white 
 marble of Carrara" (Misson, i. 408). Lassels (ii. 176) mentions 
 the crucifix and also a " Remonstrance " and candlesticks. 
 
 -^ Divertissant. — In the N. E. D. Evelyn is the only authority 
 for this word. He uses it again in Sylva (1679), p. 27 : "These 
 sweet and divertissant Plantations. Bailey (1730) recognizes 
 the word " divert isant." 
 
 28 Gesu Nuovo, — The church, in the form of a Greek cross, 
 was designed by the Jesuit, Pietro Provedo. The cupola 
 painted by Lanfranco was destroyed by the earthquake in 
 1688 (Misson, i. 631). Lassels (ii. 173) says: *'The Jesuits, 
 church is the best they have in Italy." Burnet (p. 188) only 
 mentions that the Jesuits here sold the best wine in Naples. 
 
 II 
 
IV 
 
 PALACES, A MUSEUM, AND THE VICEROY 
 
 Hence we passM by the Palazzo Caraffi, full of 
 ancient and very noble statues : also the Palace of 
 the Ursini. The next day we did little but visite 
 some friends, English merchants resident for their 
 negotiation ; onely this morning at the Viceroy's 
 Cavalerizzo I saw the noblest horses that I had ever 
 beheld, one of his sonns riding the menage with that 
 addresse and dexterity as I had never seene anything 
 approach it. 
 
 Feb, /\th, — We were invited to the collection of 
 exotic rarities in the museum of Ferdinando Im- 
 perati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of the most 
 observable palaces in the citty, the repository of 
 incomparable rarities. Amongst the naturall herbals 
 most remarkable was the Byssus marina and Pinna 
 marina ; the male and female cameleon ; an Ono- 
 cratulus ; an extraordinary greate crocodile ; some 
 of the Orcades Anates, held here for a great rarity ; 
 likewise a salamander ; the male and female Manu- 
 codiata, the male having a hollow in the back, in 
 w^^ 'tis reported the female both layes and hatches 
 her egg ; the mandragoras of both sexes ; Papyrus 
 
 12 
 
Palaces, a Museum, and the Viceroy 
 
 made of several reedes, and some of silke ; tables 
 of the rinds of trees written w^^ Japoniq characters ; 
 another of the branches of palme ; many Indian 
 fruites; a chrystal that had a quantity of uncon- 
 gealed water within its cavity ; a petrified fisher's 
 net ; divers sorts of tarantulas, being a monstrous 
 spider with lark-like clawes and somewhat bigger. 
 
 Feb. ^th, — This day we beheld the Vice-King's 
 procession, w^^ was very splendid for the reliques, 
 banners and musiq that accompanied the B. Sacra- 
 ment. The ceremony tooke up most of the morning. 
 
 Feb. 6th. — We went by coach to take the ayre, and 
 see y^ diversions or rather maddnesse of the Car- 
 nival; the courtesans (who swarme in this citty to 
 the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registered 
 and paying a tax to y^ State) flinging eggs of sweete 
 water into our coach as we passed by the houses 
 and windows. Indeed the towne is so pester'd with 
 these cattell, that there needes no small mortification 
 to preserve from their enchantment, whilst they 
 display all their naturall and artificiall beauty, play, 
 sing, feigne compliment, and by a thousand studied 
 devices seeke to inveigle foolish young men. 
 
 ^^ Palazzo Caraffi = The Palazzo Maddaloni, in the via 
 Roma, formerly Toledo, was built for the Marchese del Vasto, 
 bought by the Caraffa family, and is now the Banco Nazionale. 
 Its owner, when Evelyn visited Naples, was Diomed Caraffa, 
 whom Arcos cast into prison for maintaining banditti. He 
 was set at liberty during the rising under Mas'anielo, in the 
 hope that he would appease the people, but he suffered badly 
 at the hands of the rebels, who proceeded to sack his palace. 
 
 ^^ The Palace of the Orsinl = Palazzo Gravina. It was erected 
 in 15 13 for Ferdinando Orsino, Duca di Gravina, by Gabrielo 
 
 13 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 d'Agnolo, and completed in 1549 by Gianfrancesco Mormanno. 
 It is now the General Post Office. 
 
 ^^ The English Merchants. — Twenty years before Howell 
 wrote (Letters, i. 55) : " Our English Merchants here be at a 
 considerable trade, and their factors live in a better equipage, 
 and in a more splendid manner, than in all Italy besides, than 
 their masters and principals in London : they rustle in silks 
 and satins, and wear good Spanish leather shoes, while their 
 master's shoes on our Exchange in London, shine with 
 blacking." 
 
 ^- The Viceroy. — Don Rodriguez Ponce de Leon, Duke of 
 Arcos, had just arrived in Naples. He depleted the garrison 
 by sending Spanish and German troops into Lombardy. He 
 then tried to raise a million scudi by a tax on fruit. In the 
 resulting revolt under Mas*anielo he gave no evidence of 
 statesmanship. The situation was saved by the Cardinal 
 Archbishop, and Arcos finally triumphed through duplicity 
 and bad faith. 
 
 33 Cavalerizzo. — In an earlier passage Evelyn had spelt the 
 word correctly cavalerizza. Florio defines it as "a prince's 
 quierie or stable where his horses of service are kepte and 
 ridden" [Worlde of Wordes, 1598). 
 
 3* Horses in Naples.—ThQ writer in the Harl. Misc, (v. 34) 
 says : *' There is not in all Italy, a greater pomp in riding, nor 
 fairer horses." So Howell, in his Instructions for Forreine 
 Travel (p. 43), says : ''And so to Naples, where he may im- 
 prove his knowledge of horsemanship." Fynes Moryson 
 (i. 112) says: "The horses of this kingdom are much 
 esteemed ; and if any man buy a horse to carry out of the 
 kingdom, he pays the tenth part of the price to the King." 
 Later in Evelyn's Diary (December 3, 1650) he tells how 
 Sir Lewis Dives " affirmed that his being protected by a 
 NeapoUtan Prince, who connived at his bringing some horses 
 into France, contrary to the order of the Viceroy, by assistance 
 of some banditti, was the occasion of a difference between 
 those great men, and consequently of the late civil war in that 
 kingdom, the Viceroy having killed the Prince standing on his 
 defence at his own castle." 
 
 14 
 
Palaces, a Museum, and the Viceroy 
 
 3^ Ferdinando ImperaiL — I have failed to learn anything 
 about this gentleman. 
 
 3^ Herbais. — The text here is corrupt, or furnishes an 
 instance of singularly careless wi'iting. "Herbais" — Byssus 
 marina and Pinna marina — mandragoras of both sexes ! 
 
 ^^ Byssus Marina and Pinna Marina — mussels. Byssus is 
 the tuft of fine silk filaments by which molluscs of the genus 
 Pinna attach themselves to the surface of the rocks. It is 
 secreted by the Byssus gland in the foot. It seems that before 
 the Aquarium and Poli, the Neapolitan naturalist, men in 
 Naples were interested in molluscs. 
 
 2^ The Onacratulus = 3, pehcan. Florio (Worlde of Wordes^ 
 1598) says: *'A certain ravenous bird like a swan, with a 
 gorge beneath his mouth, wherein he swalloweth his meat 
 very greedily, and afterward doth chaw it again, and brayeth 
 very loude like an asse." 
 
 '•^'^ Orcades Anates, — Ducks from the Orkneys, probably 
 puffins. Of them Sir Thomas Browne (Works, iii. 317) writes : 
 *' The bill being so remarkably differing from other ducks, and 
 not horizontally, but meridionally formed, to feed in the clefts 
 of the rocks, of insects, shell-fish, and others." 
 
 ^" Salamander. — A lizard-like creature, supposed to live in 
 or endure in fire. Vide Sir Thomas Browne, Pseudodoxia, 
 chap. xiv. 
 
 '^^ M an ucodiaia = birds of Paradise. "The Moores . . . call 
 them manucodiata — holy birds" (Purchas, Pilgrimage^ 558; 
 1614 ed.). 
 
 *^ Mandragora = vii3XidTzkQ. It has a bifurcated root, and 
 is supposed to resemble a man. It was anciently supposed to 
 have animal life and to cry out when pulled from the ground. 
 
 ^3 Tables of the Rinds of Trees. — Probably pictures on 
 Chinese paper. Such are the curiosities described in Bargravds 
 Catalogue, p. 135, as follows : "52. Item, a rare antiquity and 
 curiosity : two Chinese books in quarto, printed in the Chyna 
 language upon I know not what material — I think either silk, 
 or rather on the barks of trees — every leaf being double, and 
 having in every page an ill-favoured design or draught of 
 picture." 
 
 IS 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ^■^ Tarantulas, — " Some doubt many have of Tarantula, or 
 poisonous spider of Calabria, and that magical cure of the bite 
 thereof by music. But since we observe that many attest it 
 from experience : since the learned Kircherius hath positively 
 averred it, and set down the songs and tunes solemnly used 
 for it ; since some others affirm the Tarantula itself will 
 dance upon certain strokes, whereby they set their instru- 
 ments against its poison ; we shall not at all question it " (Sir 
 Thomas Browne, WorkSy ii. io6). 
 
 "^ The Vice-King's Procession. — The State entry of Arcos 
 who had just arrived. 
 
 ^^ The Ceremony.— ^n^ish travellers were much interested 
 in the religion of Naples and the way in which it permeated 
 the life of the people. They were not always sympathetic. 
 In 1717 Bishop Berkeley wrote to Pope: "Our chief enter- 
 tainment is the devotion of our neighbours : besides the 
 gaiety of their churches (where folks go to see what they call 
 una be! la devotione — i.e., a sort of religious opera), they make 
 fireworks every week out of devotion ; and, what is more 
 strange, ladies invite gentlemen to their houses, and treat them 
 with music and sweetmeats, out of devotion : in a word, if it 
 were not for this devotion of its inhabitants, Naples would 
 have little else to recommend it beside the air and situation " 
 (Works J i. xxxvii.). 
 
 ^"^ The Carnival. — Evelyn, like other Englishmen, regarded 
 2Lnyfesia as a carnival. 
 
 ^^ Courtesans. — Howell writes (Letters, i. 55) : "This is a 
 dehcate, luxurious city, fuller of true bred cavaHers than any 
 place I saw yet. The chme is hot and the constitution of the 
 inhabitants more hot. The Neapolitan is accounted the best 
 courtier of ladies, and the greatest embracer of pleasure of any 
 other people : they say there are no less than 20,000 courtesans 
 registered in the office of Savelli." Similarly Raymond (p. 141) 
 writes : " Naples is extremely populous and consequently 
 vitious ; he that desires to live a retired, or indeed chaste lifc^ 
 must not set up there. . . . There were at my being there 
 30,000 courtesans registered, that paid taxes for their pleasure." 
 
 16 
 
V 
 
 VESUVIUS 
 
 yth, — The next day being Saturday we went four 
 miles out of towne on mules to see that famous 
 volcano Mount Vesuvius. Here we passe a faire 
 fountaine cal'd Labulla, w^^ continually boyles, 
 suppos'd to proceed from Vesuvius, and thence over 
 a river and bridg, where on a large upright stone 
 is engraven a notable inscription relative to the 
 memorable eruption in 1630. 
 
 Approaching the hill as we were able with our 
 mules, we alighted, crawling up the rest of the 
 proclivity with great difficulty, now w^^ our feete, 
 now with our hands, not without many untoward 
 slipps which did much bruise us on the various 
 coloured cinders w^^ which the whole mountaine 
 is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect 
 brimstone, others metaliq, interspersed with in- 
 numerable pumices (of all w^^ I made a collection), 
 we at the last gained the sum'it of an excessive 
 altitude ; turning our faces towards Naples, it 
 presents one of the goodliest prospects in the world ; 
 all the Baiae, Cuma, Elysian Fields, Capreae, Ischia, 
 Prochita, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly citty, with 
 
 a great portion of the Tyrrhan Sea, offering them- 
 
 17 2 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 selves to your view at once, and at so agreeable a 
 distance, as nothing can be more delightfull. The 
 mountaine consists of a double top, the one pointed 
 very sharp, and com'only appearing above any 
 clouds, the other blunt. Here as we approached, 
 we met many large gaping clefts and chasms, out 
 of which issued such sulphureous blasts and smoke, 
 that we durst not stand long neere them. Having 
 gain'd the very summit, I layde myself down to 
 looke over and into that most frightfull and terrible 
 vorago, a stupendious pit of neere three miles in 
 circuit and halfe a mile in depth, by a perpendicular 
 hollow cliff (like that from the highest part of Dover 
 Castle), with now and then a craggy prominency 
 jetting out. The area at the bottom is plaine like 
 an even'd floore, which seemes to be made by the 
 winds circling the ashes by its eddy blasts. In the 
 middle and center is a hill shaped like a greate 
 browne loafe, appearing to consist of sulphurous 
 matter, continually vomiting a foggy exhalation, and 
 ejecting huge stones with an impetuous noise and 
 roaring like the report of many musquets dis- 
 charging. This horrid Barathrum engaged our 
 attention for some houres, both for the strangenesse 
 of the spectacle and y^ mention which the old 
 histories make of it, as one of the most stupendious 
 curiosities in nature, and which made the learned 
 and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect the 
 causes, and to loose it in too desperate an approch. 
 It is likewise famous for the stratagem of the rebell 
 
 Spartacus, who did so much mischiefe to the State, 
 
 i8 
 
Vesuvius 
 
 lurking amongst, and protected by, these horrid 
 caverns, when it was more accessible and lesse 
 dangerous than it is now ; but especialy notorious 
 it is for the last conflagration, when in an^ 1630, 
 it burst out beyond what it had ever don in the 
 memory of history ; throwing out huge stones and 
 fiery pumices in such quantity as not onely inviron'd 
 the whole mountaine, but totaly buried and over- 
 whelm'd divers townes and their inhabitants, 
 scattering the ashes more than an hundred miles, 
 and utterly devastating all those vineyards where 
 formerly grew the most incomparable Greco ; when 
 bursting through the bowels of the earth it absorb'd 
 the very sea, and with its whirling waters drew in 
 divers gallyes and other vessels to their destruction, 
 as is faithfully recorded. We descended with more 
 ease than we climb'd up, thro' a deepe vallie of pure 
 ashes, w^^ at the late eruption was a flowing river of 
 mealted and burning brimstone, and so came to our 
 mules at the foote of the mountaine. 
 
 *^ The Lahulla. — Sandys (p. 259) writes : " We first observe 
 the ample fountain of Labulla, then rising first, but supposed 
 to proceed by concealed passages from the root of Vesuvius. 
 It is called Labulla in that the waters do boil, as it were : and 
 Labiolo in that they throw themselves into the mouth of an 
 aqueduct." 
 
 ^*' The Pillar, — The inscription is given at length in Misson, 
 i. 431, and in Raymond, 158. It was set up by Antonio Suarez, 
 who describes himself as Vice-Praef ectus Viarum. 
 
 ^1 Various Coloured Cinders. — Of the minerals ejected by 
 the volcano, about fifty varieties are known. The yellow 
 masses, usually taken for sulphur, often consist of lava coloured 
 by chloride of iron. 
 
 19 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ^2 The Double Jo/).— Viewed from Naples, Monte Somma, 
 the landward peak, is almost as conical as the Volcano, but 
 viewed from Sorrento it is no peak at all, but the segment of a 
 circle, which, if completed, would embrace the present cone. 
 Before the eruption on August 24, a.d. 79, the circle was com- 
 plete. Strabo (book v., c. iv., § 8) writes : '* Above these 
 places (Pompeii, etc.) rises Vesuvius, well cultivated and 
 inhabited all round, except its top, which is for the most part 
 level and entirely barren, ashy to the view, displaying cavernous 
 hollows in rocks, which look as if they had been eaten by fire, 
 so that we may suppose this spot to have been a volcano 
 formerly, with burning craters, now extinguished for lack of 
 fuel." The magnitude of the subsequent eruption may be 
 understood by the fact that one wall of the mountain was 
 blown away. 
 
 ^3 Looking Over. — It is interesting to compare Evelyn's im- 
 pressions with those of Bishop Berkeley {Works, i. xxxvii.) sent 
 to Dr. Arbuthnot, April 17th, 1717 : '* I heard within that 
 horrid gulf certain odd sounds, which seemed to proceed from 
 the belly of the mountain ; a sort of murmuring, sobbing, 
 sighing, churning, dashing as it were of waves, and between 
 whiles a noise like that of thunder or cannon, which was con- 
 stantly attended by a clattering like that of tiles falling from 
 the top of houses into the streets. ..." May 8th: ''The 
 smoke ascending upright gave a full prospect of the crater, 
 which, as I could judge, is about a mile in circumference and 
 about a hundred yards deep. A conicle mount has been 
 formed, since my last visit, in the middle of the bottom : the 
 mount I could see was made up of stones thrown up and fallen 
 back again into the crater." 
 
 ^* VoragOy a word used more than once by Evelyn, is the 
 Latin for a gulf or an abyss. It has never become English 
 and does not occur in Florio, Minsheu, Phihps, Bailey, or 
 Johnson. In Italian it is a poetical word used when the more 
 usual voragine would not scan. 
 
 ^5 The Barathrum, — Gk. fidpaOpov = 3. pit or gulf. The word 
 was specially associated with the yawning cleft beyond the 
 Acropohs of Athens into which criminals were thrown. It 
 
 20 
 
Vesuvius 
 
 came into English as early as 1520 as an equivalent for Hell 
 (Furnival, Ballads, p. 149). 
 
 ^* Pliny. — Both Plinys were at Misenum on the occasion of 
 the eruption in 79. The elder was in command of the Fleet. 
 He started not only to investigate the occurrence, but to rescue 
 Rectina, the wife of Bassus, at Stabiae. His nephew remained 
 at Misenum, and afterwards described the event in two letters 
 written at the request of Tacitus. There is a vivid description 
 of the escape from Pomponianus Bassus's villa, the fugitives 
 having pillows tied on their heads with napkins, to protect 
 them from falling stones. The elder Pliny lay down on the 
 seashore, and two days afterwards was found dead, without 
 any marks of violence, looking more like a man asleep. His 
 nephew supposed him to have been stifled by fumes of sulphur 
 {Ep. vi. 16). 
 
 ^7 Spartactis. — In the year 73 B.C. Spartacus, a gladiator, 
 training at Capua, escaped with seventy others and took 
 refuge on Mount Vesuvius. In North's translation of Plutarch 
 (Crassus) we read : *' The Romans besieged them in their fort, 
 situate upon a hill that had a very narrow ascent to it, and kept 
 the passage up to them : all the rest of the ground round about 
 it was nothing but high rocks hanging over, and upon these 
 great store of wild vines. Of these the bondmen cut the 
 strongest strips, and made thereof ladders, hke to ship ladders 
 of ropes, of such a length and so strong that they reached from 
 the top of the hill even to the very bottom : upon these they 
 all came safely down, save one that tarried above to throw 
 down their armour after them, who afterwards, by the same 
 ladder, saved himself last of all. The Romans mistrusting no 
 such matter, these bondmen compassed the hill round, assailed 
 them behind, and put them in such a fear, with the sudden 
 onset, as they fled everyman, and so was their camp taken." 
 For the next two years the Servile war went on. Both Consuls 
 were defeated by Spartacus. Then Crassus was given com- 
 mand against him, and by the River Silarus won a victory, in 
 which Spartacus was slain. 
 
 ^s. i6jo should be 163 1. Vesuvius was quiescent from 1500 
 to 163 1. Sandys (260) describes the crater as ** dechning like 
 
 21 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 the seats in the theatre, flourishing with trees and excellent 
 pasturage, . . . The midst of the hill is shaded with chesnut- 
 trees, and others bearing sundry fruits." Cattle are said to 
 have grazed within the crater. On December i or 2 a man 
 of Ottajano found the woods gone and a level sandy plain at 
 the summit, which he dared to cross. On December 16 a 
 great cloud like a pine-tree overhung the mountain, and the 
 Abate Braccini, Pliny in hand, grasped its significance. An 
 awful earthquake took place ; the sea retreated half a mile ; 
 seven streams of lava burst from the mountain ; Bosco, Torre 
 Annunziata, Torre Greco, Resina and Portici were over- 
 whelmed ; 3,000 people perished. Lassels (ii. 180) was told 
 by a survivor : " Thunder was but a pistol- crack to this noise." 
 He comments : ** The mouth of a cannon a full mile wide must 
 needs give a great report." Great stones, as Evelyn says, were 
 cast enormous distances. One of 50,000 pounds weight was 
 thrown into Massa di Somma ; another, which a team of oxen 
 could scarcely move, fell as far away as Nola. Ashes were 
 carried to Tarentum, and Naples was plunged into darkness. 
 The Viceroy sent heralds through the town, imploring the 
 people to live cleanly. The blood of S. Januarius liquefied, 
 and was carried through the streets, followed by crowds of 
 frenzied flagellants, often stark naked. A year later the Abate 
 Braccini published DelV Incendio fattori nel Vesuvio. Lassels 
 refers to De Vesuviano Incendio NuniiuSy by Julius Caesar 
 Recupitus ; and Misson (i. 625) relies on the authority of 
 Theodorus Valle. 
 
 69 Torre del Greco. — The present town of 35,000 inhabitants 
 stands on one of the lava streams that buried its predecessor. 
 The town also suffered partial destruction in 1737, i794) 1857, 
 1 861. The Neapolitans have a proverb : " Napoli fa i peccati, 
 e la Torre li paga." 
 
 ^® Greco Wine, — Sandys (260) says : *^ The lower parts of " 
 Vesuvius " afford the best Greek wine in the world." Howell 
 wrote to Robert Brown : " In a cup of the richest Greek we 
 had your health, and I could not tell whether the wine or the 
 remembrance of you was sweeter, for it was naturally a kind 
 of aromatic wine, which left a fragrant perfuming kind of 
 farewell behind it" (Letters y i. 49). 
 
 22 
 
VI 
 
 VIRGIL'S TOMB— POSILIPO— THE GROTTO 
 
 VECCHIO 
 
 On Sunday we with our guide visited the so much 
 celebrated Baiae, and natural rarities of the places 
 adjacent. Here we entered the mountaine Pausi- 
 lipo, at the left hand of which they shew*d us Virgil's 
 sepulchre erected on a steepe rock, in forme of a 
 small rotunda or cupolated column, but almost 
 overgrowne with bushes and wild baye trees. At 
 the entrance is this inscription : 
 
 Stanisi Cencovius 
 
 1589. 
 
 Qui cineres ? Tumuli haec vestigia, conditur olim 
 
 Ille hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura, Duces. 
 
 Can. Ree. MDLIII. 
 
 After we were advanc'd into this noble and alto- 
 gether wonderfull crypt, consisting of a passage 
 spacious enough for two coaches to go on breast, 
 cut thro' a rocky mountaine neere three quarters 
 of a mile, (by the ancient Cimmerii as reported, 
 but, as others say by L. Cocceius, who employed a 
 hundred thousand men on it,) we came to the 
 midway, where there is a well bor'd through the 
 
 23 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 diameter of this vast mountaine, which admitts the 
 light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natural 
 rock, wherein hang divers lamps perpetualy burning. 
 The way is pav*d under foote, but it does not hinder 
 the dust, which rises so excessively in this much 
 frequented passage, that we were forc'd at mid-day 
 to use a torch. At length we were delivered from 
 the bowels of the earth into one of the most delicious 
 plaines of the world : the oranges, lemons, pome- 
 granads, and other fruits, blushing yet on the 
 perpetualy greene trees ; for the summer is here 
 eternal, caus'd by the natural and adventitious heate 
 of the earth, warm'd through the subterranean fires, 
 as was shewn us by our guide, who alighted, and 
 cutting up a turf w^^ his knife, and delivering it to 
 me, was so hot I was hardly able to hold it in my 
 hands. This mountaine is exceedingly fruitfull in 
 vines, and exotics grow readily. 
 
 J I Virgil's Sepulchre. — Virgil possessed a villa at Posilipo, 
 and there wrote the Georgics and the jEiieid, He died at 
 Brundusium on his return from Greece in 19 B.C., and was 
 buried at Naples. Statins wrote his poem within the shadow 
 of the tomb [Silv.^ iv. 450). Silius Italicus purchased the 
 place, restored it, and, according to Pliny, frequented it as if 
 it were a temple [Ep. iii. 7). According to a tradition recorded 
 by Gervasius of Tilbury (fl. 1200), an English scholar came to 
 the Court of Roger of Sicily, asking for nothing but the bones 
 of Virgil. His sepulchre had been forgotten, but by magic 
 arts the scholar broke into the centre of the mountain, and 
 there found the poet, his body unchanged, and his head rest- 
 ing on his magic books. The scholar took the books, and the 
 bones were placed behind a grating in the Castel Uovo. This 
 is allied with a slightly later tradition, which asserts that the 
 
 24 
 
Virgirs Tomb, Posilipo, etc. 
 
 poet was buried in a castle surrounded by the sea, while John 
 of Salisbury relates how the Castel Uovo was founded on an 
 ^g§ by the mighty magician, Virgil. Apart from these English 
 fairy tales, the present site is supported by local tradition. 
 The bay-tree before it is said to have died at the death of 
 Dante. Petrarch came there with Robert the Wise and 
 planted another, which was destroyed by relic-hunters early 
 in the nineteenth century. There Boccaccio solemnly re- 
 nounced trade for the service of the Muses. In 1326 Villani 
 (Cronaca di Napoh) states that there was a monument with 
 nine pillars sheltering an urn, and on the frieze the well-known 
 inscription : 
 
 " Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc 
 Parthenope : cecini pascua, rura, duces." 
 
 Villani also states that the urn was sent to Mantua. When 
 Sandys (p. 260) visited the place, he says : '* A laurel thrusteth 
 out her branches at the top of the ruined cupola, to honour 
 him dead who merited it living." 
 
 *^ The Inscription. — ** StaTsi Cencovius, 1589," is rudely cut 
 by another hand to the rest. The verse is correctly given save 
 that hoc should be hie. Keysler {Travels, ii. 433) emended the 
 Latinity, and in consequence Evelyn's editors have accused 
 him of inexactitude. Can. Ree. is puzzling. The sculptor may 
 have intended Car: Re., Charles V. being King in 1553. 
 
 ^^ The Old Tunnel is 775 yards in length, and was con- 
 structed in the time of Augustus. It is mentioned by Seneca 
 as a gloomy pass, and Medieval superstition attributed it to 
 Virgil the Magician. Don Pedro de Toledo caused it to be 
 paved. It is now superseded by the Grotto Nuovo. 
 
 ^* The Cimmerians dwelt in darkness and mist, far to the 
 west, according to Homer (Orf., xjl. 14). Later writers tried to 
 localize them by the shores of Avernus and the mouths of 
 Hell. 
 
 ^^ L. Cocceius may have been a son of Marcus Cocceius, who 
 was Consul in 36 B.C. Fynes Moryson says (i. 13) : ** Leander 
 the Cosmographer, a witness without exception, attributes it 
 to Cocceius, a Roman." 
 
 25 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 *^ Dust and Darkness, — Lassels writes (ii. 183) : " We were 
 left in the dark a good while till we came to the half-way, 
 where there hangs a burning lamp before the picture of Our 
 Saviour in the B. Virgin's arms. The light of this lamp was 
 very grateful unto us ; and I am confident a Puritan himself, 
 were he here, would be glad to see this lamp and picture, 
 and love them better for it ever after. All the way of 
 this Grotto is very even and level, but hugely dusty : as a 
 room must be that hath not been swept these 1,600 years. 
 The people of the country, meeting here in the dark, know 
 how to avoid one another, by going to Naples on the right 
 side and returning on the left ; that is, by keeping on the 
 mountain side going and returning on the sea side : and this 
 they express by often calling out, * A la Montagna,' or * A la 
 Marina, . . .' Our guide understood the word, and he giving 
 it unto me, and I to my next man, it ran through our whole 
 brigade, which consisted of a dozen horsemen in all." 
 
 26 
 
VII 
 
 THE GROTTO DEL CANE 
 
 We now come to a lake almost two miles in 
 circumference, inviron'd with hills ; the water of it 
 is fresh and sweete on the surface but salt at botome, 
 some mineral salt conjectured to be the cause, and 
 'tis reported of that profunditude in the middle that 
 it is botomelesse. The people call it Lago d'Agnano 
 from the multitude of serpents which involved to- 
 gether about the spring, fell downe from the cliffy 
 hills into it. It has no fish nor will any live in it. 
 We tried the old experiment on a dog in the Grotto 
 del Cane, or Charon's Cave ; it is not above three or 
 four paces deepe, and about the height of a man, nor 
 very broad. Whatever having life enters it presently 
 expires. Of this we made tryal with two doggs, one 
 of which we bound to a short pole to guide him the 
 more directly into the further part of the den, where 
 he was no sooner enter'd, but without the least 
 noyse, or so much as a struggle, except that he 
 panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes 
 being fix'd ; we drew him out dead to all appearance ; 
 but immediately plunging him into y^ adjoyning lake, 
 
 within lesse than halfe an houre he recover'd, and 
 
 27 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 swimming to shore ran away from us. We tried the 
 same on another dogg without the appHcation of the 
 water, and left him quite dead. The experiment has 
 been made on men, as on that poore creature whom 
 Peter of Toledo caus d to go in ; likewise on some 
 Turkish slaves ; two souldiers, and other foole-hardy 
 persons, who all perished, and could never be re- 
 covered by the water of the lake as are doggs, for 
 which many learned reasons have been offered, as 
 Simon Majolus in his book of the Canicular-dayes 
 has mentioned, coloq. 15. And certainly the most 
 likely is, the effect of those hot and dry vapours 
 which ascend out of the earth and are condensed by 
 the ambient cold, as appeares by their converting 
 into chrystaline drops on y^ top, whilst at the botome 
 'tis so excessively hott that a torch being extin- 
 guished near it, and lifted a little distance, was 
 suddenly re'lighted. 
 
 ^^ The Lago d'Agnano is an old crater four miles in circum- 
 ference. It is not mentioned by ancient writers, and was 
 probably formed in the Middle Ages. Far from being bottom- 
 less, it was drained in 1870, and the health of the neighbour- 
 hood has improved in consequence. 
 
 ^ The Grotto del Cane is a narrow cave, and not until you 
 step down into it are you aware of the carbonic acid gas which 
 there reaches to your knees. A couple of steps, and it reaches 
 to your waist. No one goes further. The cave was known 
 to Pliny, who speaks of " spiracula et scrobes Charoneae 
 mortiferum exhalantes in agro Puteolano" (N. H., ii, 93). 
 Charles VIII. visited the cave, and had a donkey driven into 
 it, which immediately died. Don John of Austria and Don 
 Pedro of Toledo also tried experiments. A Frenchman, 
 M. de Tournon, tried to pick up a pebble, and was over- 
 
 28 
 
The Grotto del Cane 
 
 powered by the vapours. His companions threw him into 
 the lake, but he did not, Hke the dogs, recover. Fynes Mory- 
 son (i, 114) says : ** We gave two poU to a woman there for a 
 dog." The dogs were not freed from this experiment until 
 the lake was drained. The torch is still extinguished, but not, 
 as Evelyn says, relighted. Lithgow (p. 153;) boasts of having 
 been to the end of the cave and brought back two stones, 
 but he confesses that no one believed his tale. Dr. Edward 
 Browne, son of Sir Thomas, writes : *' I went into the grot 
 myself, and finding no inconvenience from these poisonous 
 exhalations, either by standing or putting my hand to the 
 place where the dog died, I was about to put my head to it 
 also ; when to the hindrance of my satisfaction in this point, 
 my companions and the guide furiously tore me out of the 
 grot, and I think, without some persuasion, would have thrown 
 me into the lake also " (Sir T. Browne's Works, i. 78 : Bohn). 
 Joseph Addison (pp. 175-178) visited the grot, and conducted 
 a series of experiments there with a lizard, a pistol, gunpowder, 
 a sealed phial, and mercury. A little before, in 1695, Dr. Ber- 
 nard Connor had published at Oxford an account of the cave 
 in his dissertation, De Antris Leihiferis. 
 
 ^^ Don Pedro de Toledo, Marquis of Villafranca, was born in 
 1484, and became Viceroy of Naples in 1532. He established 
 justice and reformed the judicature, and in his first eight 3^ears 
 owned to the hanging of 18,000 persons. He enlarged the 
 city of Naples, cleared out the worst dens of infamy, paved 
 and enlarged the streets, and commissioned Giovanni da Nola 
 to construct the Via Toledo (Roma). He rebuilt Pozzuoli 
 after the eruption of 1538 and made it his headquarters. He 
 waged war successfully with the French and Turkish pirates 
 and built castles for the protection of the coast. The taxes 
 which he was forced to levy made him unpopular, and in his 
 later years his unpopularity made him tyrannical. His attempts 
 to introduce the Inquisition led to a revolt in 1547, but he 
 retained his position of Viceroy until his death in 1555. His 
 splendid monument is in San Giacomo Degh SpagnuoH. He 
 was called *' the fortunate knight," and his only daughter 
 Elionora married Cosimo I. 
 
 29 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ^^ Don Pedro's Experiment. — Fynes Moryson (i. 112) tells this 
 story of Don John of Austria, who spent some days in Naples 
 before starting for Lepanto. He says : *' He forced a galley 
 slave to go into this cave, and he, falling dead, forced another 
 slave to fetch him out, who likewise fell dead, and that he 
 killed the third slave with his own hand, because he refused 
 to fetch out his two dead fellows." 
 
 ^^ Simon Majolus was one of many scholars responsible for 
 the Counter-Reformation. Besides his quaint book, Dies 
 Caniciilares, he wrote a Defence of Holy Images ; the adoration 
 of which was being attacked by the Protestants (Tiraboschi, 
 vii., part i., p. 313). 
 
 ^"2 Dies Canicular es {CoW, xv., p. 692): ** Life there [in the 
 grotto] can easily be restored in all animals but man. For he 
 perishes from this pestilent exhalation, whether from delicacy 
 of constitution, in which he surpasses other creatures, or 
 because he resists with senses and intellect, which last adds 
 pain from knowledge of the danger, whereas the lower 
 animals struggle only with their senses. . . . But there is 
 another reason for a man's death. The basis of his life lies in 
 the brain and heart, and is daily worn away by mental labour 
 and daily becomes weaker, for we easily die from evil smells, 
 pleasure and grief, far beyond other living creatures," etc. 
 
 30 
 
VIII 
 
 SOLFATARA 
 
 Neere to this cave are the natural stoves of 
 St. Germain, of the nature of sudatories, in certain 
 chambers partition'd with stone for the sick to 
 sweate in, the vapours here being exceedingly hot, 
 and of admirable successe in the goute and other 
 cold distempers of the nerves. Hence we climb'd 
 up an hill, the very highway in several places even 
 smoaking w^^ heate like a fournace. The mountaines 
 were by the Greekes called Leucoyei, and the fields 
 Phlaegrean. Hercules here vanquished the Gyants 
 assisted with lightning. We now come to the Court 
 of Vulcan, consisting of a valley neere a quarter of a 
 mile in breadth, the margent inviron'd with steepe 
 cliffs, out of whose side and foote break forth fire 
 and smoke in aboundance, making a noyse like a 
 tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in 
 lowd reports like so many guns. The heate of this 
 place is wonderfull, the earth itselfe being almost 
 insufferable, and which the subterranean fires have 
 made so hollow, by having wasted the matter for so 
 many yeares, that it sounds like a drum to those 
 who walke upon it ; and the water thus struggling 
 with these fires, bubbles and spoutes aloft into the 
 
 31 
 
 \ 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ayre. The mouthes of these spiracles are bestrewed 
 with variously-colour'd cinders, which rise w^^ the 
 vapour, as do many colour'd stones, according to 
 the quality of the combustible matter, insomuch as 
 'tis no little adventure to approach them ; they are 
 however daily frequented both by sick and well, the 
 former receiving the fumes, having been recovered 
 of diseases esteem'd incurable. Here we found a 
 greate deal of sulphure made, which they refine in 
 certaine houses neere the place, casting it into canes, 
 to a very greate value. Neere this we were shew'd 
 a hill of alume, where is one of the best mineries, 
 yielding a considerable revenue. Some floures of 
 brasse are found here ; but I could not but smile at 
 those who perswade themselves that here are the 
 gates of purgatory, (for which it may be they have 
 erected very neere it a convent and named it 
 St. Januarius) reporting to have often heard 
 screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding 
 from these caverns and volcanos ; with other 
 legends of birds that are never scene save on 
 Sundayes, which cast themselves into the lake at 
 night, appearing no more all y^ weeke after. 
 
 We now approach'd the ruines of a very stately 
 temple or theater, of 172 foote in length and about 
 80 in breadth, thrown down by an earthquake not 
 long since ; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under 
 the ground are many strange meanders, from w^^ it 
 is named the Labyrinth ; this place is so haunted 
 with batts that their perpetual fluttering endanger'd 
 the putting out of our linkes. 
 
 32 
 
Solfatara 
 
 "^^ Stufe di San Germano. — Lassels (ii. i86) says the stoves 
 *' are excellent remedies for the Neapolitan disease, called by 
 some authors campanus morbus : Nature, an indulgent mother, 
 thinking herself bound to afford a remedy to the disorders 
 which she herself hath incUned the Neapohtans unto." 
 
 ^* MouniainSy Fields^ and Hercules. — The Leucogaean (of 
 white earth) hills, so called because chalk was dug there. 
 (Pliny, A^. H., xviii. ii. 29). Phlegrasan (burnt) fields. Here 
 was the fabled battle between the Titans and Hercules, assisted 
 by the gods. The victory was won by the thunderbolts of 
 Jupiter. 
 
 ^^ Court of Vulcan, — Hephaesti Agora, '^a level space, sur- 
 rounded by burning heights, with numerous chimney-Uke 
 spiracles which rumble loudly, and the bottom is full of dactile 
 sulphur " (Strabo, v. 4). It is now called Solfatara. The only 
 recorded eruption of lava was in 1198, but even that is of 
 doubtful authenticity, and the crater has probably shown 
 much the same activity these 2,000 years. 
 
 ^^ Alum, — " They prepare Rock- Alum on the Solfatara ; 
 which is a dry, yellow and white mountain, all over burnt and 
 worn by its own fire. They erect little cabins there, in which 
 they labour at that work, and the sole heat of the vent makes 
 the caldrons boil" (Misson, i. 437). 
 
 '^'^ MinerieSj obsolete form of mines. 
 
 ^8 Flowers of Brass, — In ancient chemistry the pulverulent 
 form of any substance is spoken of as the flower. 
 
 ^^ The Gates of Purgatory. — *^ The poor people in and about 
 Naples are firmly persuaded that the fuming holes of the 
 Solfatara are, in a literal sense, the real chimneys of hell. 
 Capaccio, who examined the whole matter very nicely, is of 
 the same opinion. He assures us that the . . . Capuchins, 
 from time to time, hear most horrible bowlings, and are often 
 plagued with hobgoblins " (Misson, i. 437). 
 
 ^0 S. Germano, — A Capuchin monastery founded in 1580 on 
 the spot where S. Januarius is said to have been beheaded. 
 Evelyn is without excuse for his implied suggestion, perhaps 
 a joke. 
 
 33 3 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ^* Birds. — The birds, according to local superstitions, were 
 souls in Purgatory liberated on the Sabbath. 
 
 8^ The Temple. — Comparnig Evelyn's account with that of 
 Misson (i. 438), it is obvious that he is referring to the amphi- 
 theatre. Misson gives the same measurements and also his 
 authority, Capaccio. Fynes Moryson (i. 116) knew it was an 
 amphitheatre, and gives the measurements as 172 feet by 
 88 feet. Sandys (p. 270) agrees with him. Their authority 
 was Leander. The arena is in reality 236 feet by 138 feet. 
 The major axis of the building was 482 feet, the minor 384 feet. 
 The building was much damaged in 1538, and never properly 
 excavated until 1838. 
 
 ^3 The Labyrinth. — Fynes Moryson (i. 116) says: " Here wc, 
 had not only need of the thread of Ariadne, but of light also 
 to guide us. Leander thinks that all this building was to keep 
 fresh water." To the north-west of the amphitheatre arc 
 ancient thermae, which were connected with numerous reser- 
 voirs for the Naumachia. 
 
 34 
 
IX 
 
 POZZUOLI 
 
 Hence we passed againe those boiling and 
 smoking hills till we came to Pozzuolo, formerly the 
 famous Puteoli, the landing place of St. Paule when 
 he came into Italy after the tempest described in the 
 Acts of the Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, 
 and bought divers medailes, antiquities, and other 
 curiosities, of the country people, who daily find such 
 things amongst the very old mines of those places. 
 This towne was formerly a Greeke Colonic, built by 
 the Samians, a reasonable commodious port, and 
 full of observable antiquities. We saw the mines 
 of Neptune's temple, to whome this place was sacred, 
 and neere it the stately palace and gardens of 
 Peter de Toledo, formerly mentioned. Afterwards 
 we visited that admirably built temple of Augustus, 
 seeming to have ben hewn out of an intire rock, 
 tho' indeede consisting of several square stones. 
 The inscription remaines thus, '* L. Calphurnius 
 L. E. Templum Augusto cum ornamentis D.D." 
 and under it ; "L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus 
 Architectus." It is now converted into a church, in 
 
 35 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 which they shew'd us huge bones, w^^ they affiirme 
 to have ben of some gyant. 
 
 ®* Pozzuoli. — It was first called Dicaearchia, and was the 
 port of the Greek colony at Cuma. During the invasion of 
 Hannibal, the Romans colonized it and called it Puteoli, from 
 />if/d/= wells, or, as Strabo (v. 4) suggests, from />w/or=stench, 
 because the whole country was full of sulphur, fire, and hot 
 springs. Its present name is due to the pozzolana earth found 
 in the neighbourhood. The fall of Capua in 211 B.C. made 
 Puteoli the merchant city and port of Rome. The rise of 
 Ostia in the time of Claudius destroyed its importance. It was 
 almost destroyed by the earthquake in 1538, but was restored, 
 and became the favourite residence of Pedro de Toledo. 
 
 ®* Ads of the Apostles xxviii. 14. — S. Paul arrived in a corn- 
 ship of Alexandria, and the corn-ships had the privilege of 
 approaching the harbour with their topsails set. 
 
 ®^ Samtans. — This is a mistake probably due to Samians and 
 Samnites being confused. The Samnites stormed Cuma in 
 420 B.C., and probably possessed themselves of Dicaearchia at 
 the same time. 
 
 87 The Haven, — Fynes Moryson (i. 115) says: ** The haven 
 of old was very commodious, but by negligence is grown of 
 
 no use." 
 
 88 The Temple of Neptune. — The ruins now called the Temple 
 of Neptune are submerged. The building referred to by 
 Evelyn and Raymond (p. 157) is probably the Serapeum of 
 modern guide-books. Some modern antiquaries maintain that 
 it was a macellum, or market hall. 
 
 89 The Temple of Augustus = S. Proculo. It contains the 
 relics of the saint who was martyred with S. Januarius in 
 A.D. 305. 
 
 90 Calpurnius.— Brother of JuUus Caesar's last wife, and son 
 of that Lucius Calpurnius Piso whom Cicero accused of spoil- 
 ing Macedonia. He had a villa at Herculaneum, and the 
 Resting Mercury and Sleeping Faun in the Museum at Naples 
 have been rescued from its ruins. 
 
 91 Cocccius. — Perhaps a son of that Marcus Cocceius who 
 
 36 
 
Pozzuoli 
 
 made peace between Marc Antony and Augustus, and is 
 referred to by Horace (5a/. i. v. 50). 
 
 ^2 The Giant, — Fynes Moryson says : '' There be shewn the 
 bones of a giant of wonderful bigness." In legend he was 
 supposed to represent the race with which Hercules had to 
 contend. Sandys (p. 273) translates some verses of Pomponius 
 Loetus on the subject. 
 
 37 
 
X 
 
 POZZUOLI AND THE BAY OF BAI^ 
 
 We went to see the ruines of the old haven, so 
 compact with that bituminous sand in which the 
 materials are layd, as the like is hardly to be found, 
 though all this has not been sufficient to protect it 
 from the fatal concussions of several earthquakes 
 (frequent here) which have almost demolish'd it, 
 thirteen vast piles of marble onely remaining, a 
 stupendous worke in the bosome of Neptune ! To 
 this joynes the bridg of Caligula, by which (having 
 now embarq'd ourselves) we sail'd to the pleasant 
 Baiae, almost 4 miles in length, all which way that 
 prowd Emperor would passe in triumph. Here we 
 row'd along towards a villa of the orator Cicero's, 
 where we were shew'd the ruines of his Academy, 
 and at the foote of a rock his Bathes, the waters 
 reciprocating their tides w^^ the neighbouring sea. 
 Hard at hand rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I con- 
 ceived, nothing save an heape of pumices, which 
 here floate in aboundance to the sea, exhausted of 
 all inflammable matter by the fire, w^^ renders them 
 light and porous, so as the beds of niter w^^ lye 
 deepe under them having taken fire dos easily eject 
 
 38 
 
Pozzuoli and the Bay of Baiae 
 
 them. They dig much for fancied treasure said 
 to be conceil'd about this place. From hence we 
 coasted neere the mines of Portus Julius, where 
 we might see divers stately palaces y^ had been 
 swallowed up by the sea after earthquakes. Coming 
 to shore we passe by the Lucrine Lake, so famous 
 heretofore for its delicious oysters, now producing 
 few or none, being divided from y« sea by a banke 
 of incredible labour, the suppos'd worke of Hercules ; 
 'tis now halfe chock'd up w^^ rubbish, and by part 
 of the new mountaine, which rose partly out of it 
 and partly out of the sea, and that in the space of 
 one night and a day, to a very great altitude, on the 
 29^^ Sept. 1538, after many terrible earthquakes, 
 w^^ ruin'd divers places thereabout, when at midnight 
 the sea retiring neere 200 paces, and yawning on 
 the sudaine, it continued to vomit forth flames and 
 fiery stones in such quantity as produced this whole 
 mountaine by their fall, making the inhabitants of 
 Pozzuole to leave their habitations, supposing the 
 end of the world had ben come. 
 
 ^^ Bituminous Sand = Pozzolana earth. *' The sand which 
 they use for building at PuzzoH deserves to be taken notice of. 
 Vitruvius commends it extremely ; and Pliny boasts much of 
 it : it enters the composition of a certain sort of mortar, which 
 grows as hard as marble, even in the sea" (Misson, i. 439). 
 Vitruvius says : " Puteolanus pulvis, si aquam attigit, saxum 
 est." 
 
 9* The Pier. — The present Mole incorporates the relics of 
 the Roman pier, which consisted of twenty-five separate 
 buttresses supporting twenty-four arches. It was injured by 
 a storm in Hadrian's reign, and restored by Antoninus Pius 
 in A.D. 139. The rings for attaching the boats of Caligula's 
 
 39 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 bridge are now, through the subsidence of the ground, 6J feet 
 under water. 
 
 ^^ Caligula's Bridge was a bridge of boats (Suetonius, 
 Caligula^ § 19). Across this bridge the Emperor, clad in the 
 armour of Alexander the Great, celebrated his triumph over 
 the Parthians. 
 
 9^ Villa and Academy of Cicero. — Cicero had a villa at Puteoli 
 before his friend and banker, Clusus, left him a splendid 
 property in the neighbourhood. It was here, in 54 B.C., he 
 began to write his De Republica, It was perhaps at Puteoli, 
 though some scholars think at Formiae, that he entertained 
 Julius Caesar. His villa subsequently belonged to Hadrian, 
 who was temporarily buried there. The true site is probably 
 where Armstrong and Co. have their works, although Lithgow 
 (p- 351) seems to place it further to the west. When Misson 
 (i. 454) visited the spot, the supposed ruins were stalls for 
 oxen. 
 
 ^^ Mount Gaurus = Monte Barbaro is an extinct volcano. 
 It was famed for its fertility. Pontanus wrote : 
 
 '' Invitant volucres canorae, et ipse 
 Gaurus pampineas parat corollas." 
 
 {Hendecasyllabi, p. 208.) 
 
 Two hundred years afterwards Addison wrote : " Mount 
 Gaurus, from one of the most fruitfulest parts of Italy, has 
 become one of the most barren *' (p. 167). 
 
 ^Q Buried Treasure, — Petrarch {Carm.y ii. 7), when he cHmbed 
 the mountain in 1343, was told legends of the hidden wealth 
 and the perils of seeking it. The peasants still believe, says 
 Mr. Norway {Naples : Past and Present, p. 37), " the mountains 
 to contain vast treasures, statues of Kings and Queens, all cast 
 of solid gold, with heaps of coins and jewels so immense 
 that great ships would be needed to carry them away." He 
 suggests that the tradition arose from the treasure stored by 
 the Goths at Cumae after their surrender to Narses, the 
 Imperial General. 
 
 ^ Partus /ulius. — Augustus constructed a naval harbour 
 here, and cut channels connecting it with the Lucrine Lake 
 
 40 
 
Pozzuoli and the Bay of Baiae 
 
 and Avernus. The harbour, however, soon silted up, and the 
 fleet was transferred to Misenum. 
 
 ^^^ Liicrine Lake— Xddison (p. 167) says it is " a puddle to 
 what it once was," owing to the rise of Monte Nuovo. The 
 oyster industry, however, again flourishes. 
 
 *^^ The Via Herculea, — This ancient causeway extends nearly 
 a mile, and is built of large stone slabs laid with such skill 
 that they have withstood the waves for centuries. Even the 
 Greeks who founded Cumae in 800 b.c. did not know who 
 built it. So tradition asserted that Hercules constructed it 
 that he might drive across the Bulls of Geryon (Norway, 
 Naples y p. 45). 
 
 ^^2 The Earthquake of 1538 began, not on September 29, but 
 on September 27, and continued three days. Pozzuoli was 
 ruined. The new mountain arose in a single day to the height 
 of 455 feet, belching forth stones and lava. The event, sensa- 
 tional enough in itself, led to much exaggeration. Francesco 
 del Nero, who was a witness, says that for seventy miles the 
 earth was covered with ashes. Fynes Moryson (i. 116) says 
 the eruption lasted seven days, and that the new mountain 
 was three miles high and four in circumference ! Sandys 
 translates (p. 278) some verses of Borgius on the subject. 
 *^ The whole coast," says Symonds, *' has been spoiled by the 
 recent eruption of Monte Nuovo, with its lava floods and 
 cindery deluges. Nothing remains to justify its fame among 
 the ancient Romans and the Neapolitans of Boccaccio^s and 
 Pontanus's age '' {Sketches, etc., in Italy and Greece, iii. 242). 
 
 41 
 
XI 
 
 AVERNUS— CUMA— BA.GNI DI TRITOLA 
 
 From the left part of this we walked to the lake 
 Avernus, of a round forme, and totally inviron'd 
 w^^ mountains. This lake was fam'd by the Poete 
 for the gates of hell, by w^^ ^neas made his descent, 
 and where they sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. 
 The waters are of a remarkable black colour, but I 
 tasted of them without danger ; hence they faigne 
 yt the river Styx has its source. At the one side 
 stand the handsome mines of a Temple dedicated 
 to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but 'tis controverted. 
 Opposite to this having new lighted our torches, we 
 enter a vast cave, in which having gon about two 
 hundred paces, we passe a narrow entry which leads 
 us into a room about lo paces long, proportionable 
 broad and high ; the side walls and roofe retaine still 
 the golden Mosaiq, though now exceedingly decay'd 
 by time. Here is a short cell, or rather niche, cut 
 out of the solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, 
 in which they report that the Sibylla lay and utter'd 
 her oracles ; but is supposed by most to have been 
 a bath onely. This subterranean grotto leads quite 
 through to Cuma, but is in some places obstructed 
 by the earth w^^ has sunk in, so as we were con- 
 
 42 
 
Avernus — Cuma — Bagni di Tritola 
 
 strain'd back againe and to creep on our bellys before 
 we came to the light. 'Tis reported Nero had once 
 resolved to cut a channel for two greate gallleys y^ 
 should have extended to Ostia, 150 miles distant. 
 The people now call it Licola. 
 
 From thence we ascended to y^ most ancient citty 
 of Italy, the renowned Cuma, built by y^ Grecians. 
 It stands on a very eminent promontory, but is now 
 an heape of mines. A little below stands the Arco 
 Felice, heretofore part of Apollo's temple, with the 
 foundations of divers goodly buildings ; amongst 
 whose heapes are frequently found statues and other 
 antiquities, by such as dig for them. Neere this is 
 the Lake Acherutia and Acheron. Returning to the 
 shore we came to the Bagnie de Tritoli and Diana, 
 w^^ are onely long narrow passages cut through the 
 maine rock, where the vapours ascend so hot that 
 entering w^^ the body erect you will even faint w*^ 
 excessive perspiration, but stooping lower, as sudden 
 a cold surprises. These sudatories are much in 
 request for many infirmityes. 
 
 ^^^ Avernus was a lake without birds, and supposed to be 
 the mouth of hell. In the JEneid (vi. 290-304) the doves of 
 Venus cross the evil-smelling lake ; but Lucretius (vi. 741-749) 
 states that all birds fell into it and perished. Strabo (v. 4) 
 says that in his time the woods had been cut down and the 
 land cultivated. Avernus had lost its terrors, and so Silius 
 Italicus writes a long passage, beginning, 
 
 *' Stagna inter celebrem nunc mitia monstrat Avernum." 
 
 (Book xii. 121.) 
 
 In the Middle Ages Avernus was again unhealthy, and 
 Boccaccio speaks of sulphurous streams that destroyed all 
 fish. At present Avernus is by no means without birds. 
 
 43 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 Misson (i. 447) compares it with Withay in Yorkshire, where 
 wild geese were said to fall down dead. Evelyn, it will be 
 noted, drank of the water, though Fynes Moryson (i. 117) tells 
 us on the authority of Leander that no native would taste it, 
 " because they thought it came from hell." 
 104 Virgil, — ^neidf vi. 237. 
 
 *^^ Styx. — A river of the infernal regions. Silius Italicus 
 confounds the river with the lake of Avernus and Cocytus, and 
 the modern guide does so to-day. 
 
 106 Temple of Apollo. — Early antiquaries connected these 
 ruins with the temple referred to by Virgil as built by 
 Daedalus (^Eti,, vi. 18). Misson, however, writes : " It is un- 
 certain whether the ruins, which are next to the lake, are of a 
 Temple of Mercury or Neptune ; but Antiquaries agree that 
 it was not of a Temple of Apollo, as the vulgar suppose" 
 (i. 448). Antiquaries are now agreed that the ruins are the 
 remains of baths. 
 
 10^ The Grotto of the Sibyll is correctly described. The small 
 square chamber with the mosaic was almost certainly a bath. 
 The Grotto has nothing to do with the one described by Virgil 
 {jEfi.y vi. 43), which was at Cuma, and destroyed by Narses. 
 Fynes Moryson (i. 118) says : *' We gave a clown three poli 
 for leading us through the cave of Sibylla.** Lithgow (p. 351) 
 calls it '' a decent room," and adds, *' here it is said the Devil 
 frequented her [the Sibyll's] company." 
 
 ^^^ The Cumean Sibyll. — The Sibylls were prophetic virgins 
 dedicated to Apollo. Lactantius (i. 6) says they were ten in 
 number, and that each belonged to a different country. It is 
 hard, however, to imagine how the ancients believed that the 
 guide of ^neas, although longceva sacredoSy was the same 
 Sibyll as she who sold the prophetic books to Tarquinius 
 Priscus. The Roman oracles were burnt in the capitol 83 B.C., 
 but Sulla made a new collection, and Augustus stored them at 
 the foot of the Palatine Apollo. But before the Christian 
 era and afterwards collections were made of oracular sayings 
 which were attributed to the Sibylls. Cicero {De Divin,y 
 ii. 112) repudiated them because their acrostic form was incon- 
 sistent with the frenzy of inspiration. Jews and Christians in 
 
 44 
 
Avernus — Cuma — Bagni di Tritola 
 
 Alexandria subsequently adopted such oracles for their own 
 purposes, and Celsus sneered at the Christians for being 
 Sibyllistae. S. Jerome and S. Augustine believed in these 
 books as genuine. Juhan the Apostate was the last to consult 
 the books at Rome, and, according to the pagan Ammianus 
 Marcellinus, burnt the works of the Cumean Sibyll because 
 she prophesied of Christ. Stihcho ordered the destruction of 
 the official collection made by Sulla. Owing to the influence 
 of the Fathers, Christians long looked on the Sibylls as endowed 
 with the true prophetic powers, likening them to Baalam. 
 Sibylls and Prophets decorate the Sistine Chapel, and in the 
 seventeenth century there is a long letter from Howell to Lady 
 Sibylla Browne {Letters, iv. 490) vindicating the Sibylls 
 and detaiUng their prophecies. Sir T. Browne {Pseudodoxia, 
 book v., chap, xi.) solemnly discusses their number and age, 
 with quotations from Suidas, Salmasius, and others. During 
 the last century the Sibylline books have given rise to much 
 conti'oversy. Dr. Dechent has come to the conclusion that 
 these Sibylline writings, derived from Christian sources, all 
 show heretical tendencies. 
 
 109 jsjcro's Canal. — The Grotto of the Sibyll may have con- 
 nected the Lucrine Lake with Avernus. The Grotto della Pace 
 does connect Avernus with Cuma. Its modern name is due 
 to a Spaniard, Pietro della Pace, who explored it in 1507. This 
 passage was j&rst constructed by Agrippa, but it is supposed to 
 have formed part of Nero's scheme, a.d. 64, of cutting a 
 navigable canal from the mouth of the Tiber to Portus Julius. 
 
 ^^^ Licola. — Evelyn here is slightly confused. Lago di 
 Licola is the modern name for the ancient Acheron. 
 
 Ill Cumce is built on a volcanic eminence about 300 feet 
 above the sea. It is the earliest Greek town in Italy, and its 
 founders are said to have come from Chalcis, in Euboea, in the 
 eighth century B.C. It was the centre from which Hellenic 
 worship and civilization were diffused. The Italian alphabet 
 is derived from Cumae. The Roman Oracles came from Cumae. 
 Pozzuoli was founded from Cumas. There Tarquinius died an 
 exile. Pindar in his first Pythian Ode celebrates the victory 
 of Hiero of Syracuse, and the Cumeans over the Etruscans in 
 
 45 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 474 B.C. The Samnites stormed the town in 420 B.C., and 
 it became a Roman possession 337 B.C. Thenceforward it 
 decayed, until in the fifth century a.d. it became the last 
 stronghold of the Goths, Four hundred years later it was 
 burned by the Saracens, and in a.d. 1207 it was finally de- 
 stroyed by the inhabitants of Naples and Aversa, having become 
 a nest for pirates. 
 
 ^^2 Arco Felice. — A huge brickwork structure 65 feet high and 
 18^ feet broad, spanning a hollow through which Domitian 
 built a direct road from Cumae to Puteoli, 
 
 ^^3 Curiosiiies. — In the Museum at Naples are four rooms 
 containing the Collezione Cumana. 
 
 ^1* Acherusia=h3.go del Fusaro — a lagoon separated from 
 the sea by sand-dunes. Once the port of Cumae. 
 
 ^^^ AcheroJt=L3.go di Licola — a similar lagoon to the north. 
 
 ^^^ Bagni di Triiola, also called by seventeenth - century 
 travellers the Baths of Cicero and the Baths of Nero. Raymond 
 (P- ^55) says : *' These waters were so sovereign, not many 
 years hence, over many diseases, that over every bath was 
 written for what it was good, of which inscriptions some 
 letters yet stand, but the Physitians of Palermo (Misson, i. 454, 
 says Salernum) . . . finding those waters prejudicial to their 
 custome, went with instruments expressly, and demolished 
 those writings (so that for the present they are unuseful), the 
 said Physitians being all cast away in their return." Both 
 Addison and Lassels note the current of cold air near the 
 floor, but the latter did not penetrate far. Having seen some 
 " stradling wide," he refused to go on. *' I being well without 
 them (the baths), had no mind to be choked in seeking out 
 health " (ii. 191). " Near this bath," says Burnet (p. 213), 
 " there are galleries hewed out of the rock, and faced with a 
 building, in which there are, as it were, bedsteads made in the 
 walls, upon which those who come hither to sweat for their 
 health, lay their quilts and bedclothes, and so come regularly 
 out of their sweats." Travellers, according to Fynes Moryson 
 (i. 118), paid a paolo to see the place. 
 
 46 
 
XII 
 
 BAI^ AND BAULI 
 
 Now we enter'd the haven of Baiae where once 
 stood that famous towne, so call'd from the com- 
 panion of Ulysses here buried; not without greate 
 reason celebrated for one of the most delicious 
 places that the sunn shines on, according to that 
 of Horace : 
 
 '* Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prselucet amoenis." 
 
 Though as to the stately fabrics there now remaine 
 little save the ruines, whereof the most intire is that 
 of Diana's temple, and another of Venus. Here were 
 those famous pooles of lampreys that would come 
 to hand when called by name, as Martial tells us. 
 On the sum*ite of the rock stands a strong castle 
 garrison'd to protect the shore from Turkish pyrates. 
 It was once the retyring place of Julius Csesar. 
 Passing by y^ shore againe we entered Bauli, ob- 
 servable from the monstrous murther of Nero com- 
 mitted on his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre 
 was yet shew'd us in the rock, w^^ we enter'd, being 
 cover'd with sundry heads and figures of beasts. 
 We saw there the rootes of a tree turn'd into stone, 
 and are continualy dropping. 
 
 47 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ^^^ BaifCy in the latter days of the RepubUc and under the 
 early Empire, was the most fashionable resort of the Romans. 
 Clodius, Cicero reports, taunted him with having been there 
 (ad Att.y i. i6). His birth and his respectability alike rendered 
 his association with Baiae ridiculous. The luxury of the place 
 was unsurpassed. It was '' the golden shore." Magnificent 
 villas were built far into the water (Horace, Odes, ii. xviii. 20) ; 
 and the sea has had its revenge by swallowing up most of the 
 ancient town. Lassels (ii. 190) says : ** Time, which in all other 
 places is called edax reruiity may here be called Bibax rerum, 
 having sup'd up here a whole town." The profligacy of the 
 place is described in the Fifty-First Epistle of Seneca. Proper- 
 tius writes : " Littora quae fuerant castis inimica pueUis." 
 Under the later Empire the place decayed. The Saracens 
 sacked it in the eighth century, and in 1500 it was deserted on 
 account of malaria. It is now regaining some importance as 
 a health resort. 
 
 ^^^ Ulysses' Companion. — Strabo (v. 4) states that the town 
 was named after one of the companions of Ulysses. Cf. 
 Servius ad Verg., ^n., iii. 441. 
 119 Horace,— Ep. i. 83. 
 
 12^ Temple of Diana. — The ruins are just opposite the present 
 railway station. The so-called temple is an octagon building^ 
 with a half -preserved dome. Within are four recesses and the 
 remains of a water conduit. 
 
 1^1 Temple of Venus. — Is another octagon building dating 
 from the early Empire. kartial (Ep. iii. 57) calls Baiae 
 " Littus beatas Veneris." 
 
 1^^ Lampreys. — Raymond (p. 153) speaks of visiting "the 
 Pescheries of Hortensius." His villa was at Bauh. Izaak 
 Walton (Complete Angler, chap, xiii.) writes : *' Sir Francis 
 Bacon ... in his History of Life and Death, mentions a lam- 
 prey belonging to a Roman Emperor, to be made tame, and 
 so kept for almost three-score years ; and that such useful and 
 pleasant observations were made of this lamprey, that Crassus, 
 the Orator, who kept her, lamented her death ; and we read in 
 Dr. Hakewill that Hortensius was seen to weep at the death 
 of a lamprey, that he had kept long and loved exceedingly." 
 
 48 
 
Baias and Bauli 
 
 Hortensius was said to have so tamed his lampreys that they 
 came at his call and fed from his hand. 
 ^23 Martial, — Book iv., Ep. 30. 
 
 124 The Castle was built by Don Pedro de Toledo after the 
 Turkish pirate Barbarossa had seized Capri. It is now in 
 private hands. 
 
 125 juUiis CcEsar. — The gardens of Caesar were famous. 
 From Cicero [ad Alt., xi. 9) we infer that they adjoined the 
 gardens of Hortensius, and were not in Baiae itself. 
 
 126 Bauli y now Bacoli, two miles from Baiae. 
 
 127 Agrippina the younger was the daughter of Germanicus 
 and Agrippina, born at Cologne. She married three times ; 
 first, Ahenobarbus, by whom she became the mother of Nero, 
 and, lastly, her uncle Claudius. She murdered her stepson 
 Britannicus, and ensured the succession of her own son when 
 he was seventeen. For the next five years she ruled in his 
 name. Then Anicetus, Nero's freedman, devised a ship that 
 would fall to pieces in the sea, and the Empress, returning in 
 it from Baiae, was cast into the water, but rescued by those 
 not privy to the plot. Anicetus then invaded her villa and 
 stabbed her. She died exclaiming : ^' Strike the womb that 
 bore this monster !" 
 
 128 Tomb of Agrippina is semicircular, with reliefs and paint- 
 ings in the vaulted passage. In fact, it is the ruin of a small 
 theatre. Fynes Moryson (i. 118) thought it ^'one of the finest 
 old monuments I did ever see." 
 
 49 
 
XIII 
 
 MISENUM 
 
 Thus having view'd the foundations of the old 
 Cimeria, the palaces of Marius, Pompey, Nero, 
 Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we 
 proceeded towards the promontory of Misenus, 
 renowned for y^ sepulchre of ^Eneas's Trumpeter. 
 'Twas once a greate citty, now hardly a ruine, sayd 
 to have been built from this place to the promon- 
 tory of Minerva, 50 miles distant, now discontinued 
 and demolish'd by the frequent earthquakes. Here 
 was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Caesar 
 died ; and here runs the Aqueduct, thought to be 
 dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly 
 arch'd w^^^ marble, as the mines testifie. Hence we 
 walked to those receptacles of water cal'd Piscina 
 Mirabile, being a vault of 500 feet long, and 22 in 
 breadth, the roofe prop'd up with 4 rankes of square 
 pillars, 12 in a row; the walls are brick plaster'd 
 over w^^ such a composition as for strength and 
 politure resembles white marble. 'Tis conceiv'd to 
 have been built by Nero, as a conservatory for fresh 
 water ; as were also the Centi Camerelli, into which 
 we were next led. All these crypta being now 
 
 50 
 
Misenum 
 
 almost sunke into y^ earth, shew yet their former 
 amplitude and magnificence. 
 
 129 Misenum, — For funeral of Misenus and the naming of 
 the cape, vide ^E;;., vi. 212-235. Roman nobles built villas here 
 in the century before Christ, and local antiquaries have named 
 the ruins after them. Augustus estabhshed here the principal 
 naval port on the Tyrrhene Sea, and here the Admiral resided. 
 A great town sprang up, and Evelyn is approximately correct 
 in saying that the shore of the v^hole bay of Naples was built 
 over from Cape Miseno to Cape Minerva (Punta Capanella). 
 The town of Misenum was destroyed by the Saracens in 
 A.D. 890. 
 
 ^3^ The Villa of Caius Marius was purchased by Lucullus, 
 and here the latter constructed parks and fishponds, cutting 
 through rocks and throwing out advanced works into the sea. 
 Pompey in derision called him the Roman Xerxes. Some 
 ruins on the height are supposed to belong to this villa. 
 
 131 Tiberius, — In a.d. 37 Tiberius left Capri, travelled slowly 
 along the Appian Way, and looked for a last time on Rome 
 without entering the city. He then retraced his steps, and 
 died in the Villa of Lucullus {vide supra) on March 16. 
 
 132 The Aqueduct = the Grotto Dragonara, a subterranean 
 chamber on the west side of the Promontory, with vaulted 
 roof, supported by twelve pillars. It may have been a naval 
 depot or a reservoir, but it was not an aqueduct. 
 
 133 Piscina Mirabilis is an admirably preserved reservoir 
 but it is only 230 feet in length, not 500, while it is 85 feet in 
 width, not 22. Lassels (ii. 189) writes : " It was either for the 
 Roman galleys which used to lie hereabouts in this harbour ; 
 or else for the Romans' gusto, who, having their curious 
 villas hereabouts, had no mind to drink of the springs of this 
 bituminous country." 
 
 13* The Plaster, — Raymond (p. 153) says: ''The material 
 'tis plaistered with, in the inside is as durable as stone, yet no 
 man knows of what it is composed ; some conceive it to be 
 of the whites of eggs and dust of marble mingled together." 
 "■ It is so white," says Burnet (p. 212), "that one can hardly 
 
 51 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 think it hath not been washed ever since it was first 
 made." 
 
 135 Poliiurey from the Latin polire. There is an obsolete 
 French word, politure = PoUsh. 
 
 13^ Conservatory. — In this obsolete sense the word was 
 commonly used in the seventeenth century (vide N. E. D.). 
 For our current use of the word conservatory = greenhouse , we 
 are indebted to John Evelyn (Sylva^ p. 413). We are also 
 indebted to him for the thing itself. In his Kalendarium Hov- 
 iense he describes a conservatory or greenhouse with figures 
 showing how such a building may be warmed, ventilated, and 
 lighted [Misc. Works, 470-497). 
 
 137 Cento Caynerelle. — The upper story was certainly a reser- 
 voir. The use of the lower is still undetermined. Lassels 
 (ii. 189) thought the little chambers were intended for galley 
 slaves. Raymond (p. 152) calls it a "hideous place" where 
 Nero kept his prisoners. It is still called '' Carceri di Nerona," 
 
 52 
 
XIV 
 
 BACK TO NAPLES 
 
 Returning towards Baiae, we againe passe the 
 Elyssian Fields, so celebrated by the poetes, nor 
 unworthily, for their situation and verdure, being 
 full of myrtils and sweete shrubs, and having a most 
 delightful prospect towards the Tyrrhen Sea, Upon 
 the verge of these remaine the mines of the Mer- 
 cato di Saboto, formerly a Circus ; over the arches 
 stand divers urnes full of Roman ashes. 
 
 Having well satisfied our curiosity among these 
 antiquities, we retir'd to our felucca, w^^ row'd us 
 back againe towards Pozzuolo, at the very place of 
 St. Paule's landing. Keeping along the shore they 
 shew'd us a place where the sea-water and sands did 
 exceedingly boyle. Thence to y*' island Nesis, once 
 the fabulous Nymph ; and thus we leave the Baise, 
 so renowned for the sweete retirements of the most 
 opulent and voluptuous Romans. They certainly 
 were places of uncommon amoenitie, as their yet 
 tempting site and other circumstances of natural 
 curiosities easily invite me to believe, since there is 
 not in the world so many stupendious rarities to be 
 met with as in the circle of a few miles which inviron 
 these blissful aboades. 
 
 53 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 ^^^ The Elysian Fields. — In Homer {Od., iv. 563) Elysium 
 was the happy land in the far West, whither warriors like 
 Menelaus went without dying. For Hesiod and Pindar they 
 were the isles of the blessed far in the western ocean. Virgil 
 made them part of the lower world, and through Virgil they 
 were connected with the Bay of Naples. All seventeenth- 
 century travellers were not so pleased as Evelyn. Raymond 
 (p. 152) writes of them as '' a plain spot of earth between 
 Mount Misenus and the Augustine's convent, of twenty acres." 
 Lassels (ii. 188) adds : *' If Baiae were a town still, a man 
 might make a fine Bowling-ground here." 
 
 ^^^ The Mercato di Saboto. — Probably the ancient columbaria 
 by the roadside are intended. Raymond (p. 152) agrees with 
 Evelyn. Lassels, on the other hand, speaks of the ruins 
 "looking still Hke a street." Misson (i. 452) says: *' Some 
 pretend that they are the remains of a circus ; and those who 
 deny it know not what to determine." 
 
 1^^ Felucca, — This kind of boat originated in Southern Italy. 
 Bargrave (p. 38) says it was *'a boat about as big as Graves- 
 end Barge." Lassels (i. 30) speaks of it as "a boat a little 
 bigger than a pair of oars." In the Venetian Navy some 
 carried three lateen sails and a crew of ten rowers (WiePs 
 Navy of Venice, p. 346). 
 
 ^*^ Nesis = Nisida, ** where," says Fynes Moryson (i. 120), 
 "the poets fable . . . that the witch Calypso dwelt." "The 
 whole island," says Addison (p. 208), " looks like a large terrace 
 garden." It once belonged to Lucullus, but is more promi- 
 nently associated with the life of Brutus. Here Cicero visited 
 him in 44 B.C. Here the conspiracy against Caesar is said to 
 have been planned. Here Portia is said to have committed 
 suicide by swallowing burning coals after parting with her 
 husband. 
 
 ^^2 A Contrast. — Addison sums up his impressions of this 
 locality by saying : "I must confess that, having surveyed 
 the antiquities about Naples and Rome, I cannot but think 
 that our admiration of 'em does not so much arise out of 
 their greatness as uncommonness.' 
 
 54 
 
 >» 
 
XV 
 
 NAPLES 
 
 Feh. 8th. — Returned to Naples, we went to see 
 the Arsenal, well furnish'd with gallies and other 
 vessells. The citty is crowded with inhabitants, 
 gentlemen and merchants. The government is held 
 of the Pope by an annual tribute of 40,000 ducats 
 and a white genet; but the Spanyard trusts more 
 to the power of those his actual subjects there ; 
 Apulia and Calabria yielding him neare 4 millions 
 of crownes yearely to maintaine it. The country 
 is divided into 13 Provinces, 20 Archbishops, and 
 107 Bishops. The estates of the nobility, in default 
 of the male line, reverting to the King. Besides the 
 Vice -Roy there is amongst the Chiefe Magistrates 
 an High Constable, Admiral, Chief Justice, Create 
 Chamberlaine, and Chancelor, with a Secretary; 
 these being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully 
 inrich themselves out of the miserable people's 
 labour, silks, manna, sugar, oyle, wine, rice, sulphur, 
 and alome, for w^^ all these riches is this delicious 
 country blest. The manna falls at certain seasons 
 on the adjoining hills in forme of a thick deuw. 
 1rhe very winter here is a summer, ever fruitefull, 
 
 55 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 so that in the middle of February we had melons, 
 cheries, abricots, and many other sorts of fruite. 
 
 The building of the citty is for the size the most 
 magnificent of any in Europe, the streetes exceed- 
 ing large, well paved, having many vaults and con- 
 veyances under them for the sullage, w^h renders 
 them very sweete and cleane even in the midst of 
 winter. To it belongeth more than 3000 churches 
 and monasteries, and those the best built and 
 adorn'd of any in Italy. They greately affect the 
 Spanish gravity in their habite; dehght in good 
 horses ; the streetes are full of gallants on horse- 
 back, in coaches and sedans, from hence brought 
 first into England by Sir Sanders Duncomb. The 
 women are generally well featur'd, but excessively 
 libidinous. The country people so jovial and 
 addicted to musick, that the very husbandmen 
 almost universaly play on the guitarr, singing and 
 composing songs in prayse of their sweethearts, and 
 wil commonly goe to the field with their fiddle ; 
 they are merry, witty and genial, all w^^ I must 
 attribute to the excellent quality of the ayre. They 
 have a deadly hatred to the French, so that some 
 of our company were flouted at for wearing red 
 cloakes, as the mode then was. 
 
 This I made the fton ultra of my travels, suffi- 
 ciently sated with rolling up and downe, and 
 resolving within myselfe to be no longer an indi- 
 vidtmm vagum if ever I got home againe, since from 
 the report of divers experienc'd and curious persons 
 I had ben assur'd that there was little more to be 
 
 56 
 
Naples 
 
 seene in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, 
 France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but 
 plaine and prodigious barbarisme. 
 
 1*3 The Arsenal. — Fynes Moryson (i. iii) says there were 
 twenty galleys and ten small ships. Sandys (p. 258) says 
 thirty-seven galleys. Lassels (ii. 171) says: ''Its ordinary 
 squadron of galleys is but twenty." The writer in the Harl. 
 Misc. (v. 33) speaks of 200 galleys, an extra nought having 
 obviously crept into his notes. 
 
 ^^* The Inhabitants. — Naples was long known as the Gentle 
 City. It was '' well filled with nobihty and the nobility well 
 mounted" (Lassels, ii. 171). ''No part of Italy," says Barclay 
 {Icon Aminarum, p. 209), is filled with nobility of more haughty 
 and proud dispositions. They are practisers of arms and 
 horsemanship, lovers of labour and studious of all magnifi- 
 cence." As for the common people, " the Neapolitan," says 
 Raymond in his introduction, " is so elevated with his 
 imaginary revenues, that in his deepest poverty he will speak 
 thousands rather than betray his wants. One will sit gravely 
 before his door picking his teeth, and condemn the last capon 
 that he ate, when a morsel of bread would pass merrily 
 down." 
 
 1*^ The Tribute. — In Evelyn's Diary, November 22, 1644, he 
 says that the tribute consisted of five Neapolitan horses, not 
 one. Sandys (p. 257) says : " The Germans, in acknowledg- 
 ment of their tenure of the Papacy, gave the Pope yearly 
 eight and forty thousand ducats, together with a white horse. 
 The money, though remitted by Julius the Second unto Ferdi- 
 nand the Catholic, yet to this day is paid together with the 
 white hackney." 
 
 ^^8 Revenue. — Sandys (p. 258) computes the revenue at only 
 2,050,000 ducats. Moreover, he states that 1,030,000 went 
 in pensions, and that the remainder did not nearly cover 
 expenses. 
 
 1*^ Divisions, ^/c— Lassels (ii. 171) writes of the kingdom of 
 Naples : " It hath in it twenty Archbishops' sees ; an hundred 
 and twenty-five Bishops ; a thousand and five hundred 
 
 57 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 Boroughs ; two million souls ; ten Principalities ; twenty-five 
 Duchies ; thirty Marquisates ; fifty-four Countries [Counties] ; 
 and about a thousand Baronies, whereof four hundred are 
 ancient." Sandys (258) agrees exactly with Evelyn. 
 
 ^^ Escheat, owing to the failure of the male line, was once 
 the rule wherever feudalism prevailed. Sandys (255) : ** For 
 fault of heirs male, their principalities revert to the king, who 
 sells them most commonly to men of mean birth, and meaner 
 spirits, who are hated of the honourable." 
 
 ^*^ Avarice of Officials. — ** The King of Spain sends some of 
 his Grandees hither to repair their decayed fortunes ; whence 
 the saying sprung, that the Viceroy of Sicily gnaws, the 
 Governor of Milan eats, but the Viceroy of Naples devours" 
 (Howell, Lettersy i. 55). 
 
 160 Trade in Naples. — Fynes Moryson says: *'This city is 
 also provided with all sorts of merchandise, especially silk 
 wares ; and there is daily such great trading, as in other 
 places in time of fairs. . . . There is one street called Lan- 
 grudeca ; therein are above five hundred shops, furnished 
 with nothing but old and new apparel to be sold." 
 
 ^^^ Manna. — Philips, who was assisted by Evelyn, writes in 
 his Worlde of Wordcs (1696), under the heading '^ Manna," as 
 follows : '' There is also at this day a certain sweet white liquor 
 which drops of itself, from branches and leaves, but chiefly 
 of ash trees, as well common as wild ones, not everywhere, 
 but in Calabria, and about Brianson, during the dog-days 
 and a little before ; and this juice being after condensed and 
 dried in the sun, is called Manna. And therefore they are 
 extremely deceived who will have it to be a honey of the air, 
 proceeding from a vapour raised from the earth, digested in 
 the air and condensed by the cold." 
 
 152 Drainage at Naples. — This city was the first to have a 
 system of underground drainage. It was also well suppHed 
 with water from Porro Real. The author in the Harl, Misc. 
 thought these things most worthy to be noted. 
 
 ifi^ Streets of Naples.— Fynes Moryson (i. 112) says: "It 
 hath three fair, broad and long streets — La Tolitana, La 
 Capuana, and La Vicaria ; the rest are very narrow." Sandys 
 
 58 
 
Naples 
 
 (p. 259) says : '' The streets are broad and paved with brick, 
 vaulted underneath for the conveyance of the suUage, and 
 served with water by fountains and conduits." 
 
 1^* Churches. — Three hundred would be more correct. 
 
 155 Dr^ss.—Fynes Moryson (iii. 171) says : *'The Neapolitans 
 are glittering and sumptuous." 
 
 15^ Sedan Chairs in Naples. — Fynes Moryson (i. 112) says : 
 " At the end of many streets they had chairs, vulgarly called 
 Seggioli di Napoliy which those that are weary do enter, and 
 they being covered round about, and only having windows on 
 the sides, he that is carried therein cannot be seen of any, 
 and yet himself may see all that pass. Two porters carry 
 these chairs by two long staves, fastened thereunto, and lift 
 them but little from the ground, and so for a moderate price 
 carry the passengers to any part of the city. After I observed 
 the same fashion at Genoa, which is in like sort seated upon 
 the sides of hills and mountains, and in cities so seated, I think 
 this fashion very convenient." 
 
 1^' Sedan Chairs in England. — The first sedan chairs were 
 brought into England in 1621 by Prince Charles (Charles I.). 
 GUvares, the Spanish Minister, had given him three in Madrid. 
 Two of these were given to Buckingham, who was at once 
 accused of degrading Englishmen into beasts of burden 
 (Massinger, Works, vol. ii., p. 7). Sir Saunders Buncombe 
 obtained two patents for sedan chairs — Tenth year of Charles I.: 
 '' R. primo die Octobris con Saunders Duncombe mil., the 
 sole using and putting forth to hyre certaine covered Chaires, 
 called Sedans for xiiii^" years." Eleventh year of Charles I. : 
 " R. vii. die Dec. con Saunders Duncombe mil., the sole 
 benefitt of using or putting to hire all covered chairs or hand 
 litters within the citty of London or Westmin' & the p'cinths 
 thereof for the term of fowertine years." That he availed 
 himself of this patent we know from Garrard's letter to 
 Strafford : ''He hath forty or fifty making ready for use" 
 (Strafford's Letters y i. 336). 
 
 1^® Sir Saunders Duncombe was the second son of William 
 Duncombe of Bettlesden and EUzabeth Saunders of Pottes- 
 grove, Bedfordshire (Visit, of Beds., Harl. Soc, 100, loi). He 
 
 59 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 had been a traveller and became a Court pensioner. He had 
 a ^' famous powder " which he administered in vain to Evelyn's 
 mother {Diary^ 1635, September 3). He had also a patent for 
 the fighting of wild beasts. 
 
 159 French Dress. — Fynes Moryson says (i. 109) : " Because 
 we were attired like Frenchmen, the prisoners scoffed at us, 
 and, to my great marvel, the citizens of good sort did not 
 forbear this barbarous usage towards us." The French were 
 still unpopular apparently in 1645 ; but in 1647 the Duke of 
 Guise was received into the city as its saviour. He failed, 
 however, to establish himself, and Mazarin did not support 
 him. 
 
 ^^0 The Non Ultra of my Travels. — Raymond (p. 163) says : 
 *' This mountain [Vesuvius] was the ultima meta of our voyage 
 to Naples." Bargrave (Catalogue, p. 123): '' Mount Vesuvius, 
 near Naples . . . was four times the point of my reflection — 
 I facing about for England from the top, or crater, or voragine 
 (as they term it of that mountain)." " I confess freely," says 
 Burnet (p. 174), ''that the sight of Naples and Rome hath so 
 set my stomach that way [towards home], that the curiosity 
 of seeing new places is now very low with me." 
 
 ^^^ Prodigious Barbarism. — The Thirty Years' War was still 
 raging in Germany, and this perhaps justifies Evelyn's ex- 
 pression. He never visited Germany. 
 
 60 
 
INDEX 
 
 [Roman numerals refer to the text. Arabic numerals are used for the notes.] 
 
 Academy of Cicero, x. 96 
 of Neapolitan, 23, 25 
 Acheron, xi. 115 
 Acherusia, xi. 114 
 Acts of the Apostles, ix. 85 
 -^neas, xi., xiii. 
 Agnano (Lago d'), vii. 67 
 Agrippina, xii. 127, 128 
 Alexander ab Alexandre, iii. 
 
 20 
 Amphitheatre at Solfatara, 
 
 VIII. 82 
 
 Apuha, XV. 
 
 Aqueduct, xiii. 132 
 
 Aquinas (St. Thomas), iii. 18, 
 
 23 
 Arco Felice, xi. 112 
 
 Arcos (Duke of), 7, 32, 45 
 
 Arsenal, i., xiv. 143 
 
 Augustus, IX. II, 129 
 
 Avarice of officials, xv. 149 
 
 Avernus, xi. 99, 103, 104, 109 
 
 Bagni di Tritola, xi. 116 
 Baiae, v., vi., x., xii., xiv. 117, 
 
 124, 127 
 Barathrum^ v. 55 
 Bauli, XII. 126 
 
 Birds, VIII. 79, 103 
 
 Bridge of Caligula, x. 94, 95 
 
 Byssus, IV. 37 
 
 Caesar (Julius), xii. 90, 96, 125, 
 
 141 
 Calabria, xv. 
 Caligula, x. 94, 95 
 Calpurnius, ix. 90 
 Cameleon, iv. 
 Canal of Nero, xi. 109 
 Cane (Grotto del), vii. 68, 69, 
 
 70, 71, 72 
 Capri, I., III. 4, 10, 124, 131 
 Caraffi (Palazzo), iv. 29 
 Carnival, iv. 47 
 Carthusian, in. 26 
 Castel Nuovo, 11. 5 
 Castor and Pollux, iii. 11 
 Cavalerizza, vi. 33 
 Cencovius, vi. 62 
 Cento Camerelle, xiii. 137 
 Charon, vii. 
 Churches, xv. 154 
 
 Duomo, HI. 12 
 
 Gesu, III. 28 
 
 S. Anna dei Lombardi 
 (Monte Oliveto), iii. 19 
 
 61 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 Mag- 
 
 Churches — S. Domenico 
 giore, III. 17, 23 
 S. Giovanni Evangelista 
 (Pontans' Chapel), iii. 22 
 S. Maria Maggiore, ili. 21 
 S. Martino (the Carthu- 
 sians), III. 26 
 S. Paolo (the Theatines), 
 
 III. II 
 S. Peter's at Rome, iii. 
 S. Pietro a Maiella, iii. 15 
 S. Proculo at Pozzuoli, 
 IX. 89 
 Chrystal, iv. 
 Cicero, x. 96 
 Cimmerians, vi., xni. 64 
 Cinders, v., viii. 51 
 Climate, xv. 
 
 Cocceius (L.), vi., ix. 65, 91 
 Conservatory^ xiii. 136 
 Courtesans, iv., xv. 48 
 Crocodile, iv. 
 Crucifix, III. 18, 26 
 Cumae, xi. loi, 109, in 
 
 Dies Canicular eSy vii. 72 
 
 Divertisanty Iii. 27 
 
 Dogs, VII. 68 
 
 Dover Castle, v. 
 
 Drainage of Naples, xv. 152, 153 
 
 Dress, xv. 155 
 
 Duncombe (Sir Saunders), xv. 
 
 158 
 
 Elysian Fields, v., xiv. 138 
 Eruption, 1631, v. 58 
 
 1538, X. 69, 102 
 Escheat, xv. 148 . 
 
 Felucca, xiv. 140 
 Flowers of brass, viii. 78 
 Fountains, 11., v. 9, 49 
 French (the), xv. 6 
 Fruit, I., XV. 
 
 Garrison, i. 
 
 Gaurus (Monte), x. 97, 98 
 
 Genoa, ii. 
 
 Giants, viii., ix. 92 
 
 Greco, v. 60 
 
 Grotto del Carce. Vide Cane 
 
 Vecchio, vi. 63, 66 
 
 Dragonara, 132 
 
 Herbals, iv. 36 
 Hercules, viii., x. 74, 92, loi 
 Horace, xii. 91, 117, 119 
 Horses and horsemanship, 11., 
 
 IV., XV. 34 
 Hortensius, xiii. 122 
 
 Imperati (Ferdinando), iv. 35 
 Inhabitants of Naples, xv. 144 
 Inns, I. I 
 Ischia, III., V. 
 
 Januarius (St.), iii. 13, 14, 79 
 
 LabuUa, v. 49 
 Labyrinth, viii. 82 
 Lampreys, xii. 122 
 Leucogean Hills, viii. 74 
 Licola, XI. no 
 Liquefaction of S. Januarius' 
 
 blood, 14 
 Livy's arm, in. 24 
 Lucrine Lake, x. 99, 100 
 
 62 
 
Index 
 
 Majolus (Simon), vii. 71^ 72 
 
 Mandragora, iv. 42 
 
 Manna, xv. 151 
 
 Manucodiata, iv. 41 
 
 Marius (Caius), xiii, 130 
 
 Martial, xii. 123 
 
 Mercato di Saboto, xiv. 139 
 
 Merchants (English), iv. 31 
 
 MinerieSy viii. 77 
 
 Minerva (Cape), iii., xni. 129 
 
 Misenum, iii., v., xiii. 99, 129 
 
 Misenus, xiii. 129. 
 
 Mole at Naples, i., 11., in. 6, 8 
 
 Monte Gaurus, x. 97, 98 
 
 Nuovo, x. 102 
 
 Oliveto, III. 19 
 Museum of Imperati, iv. 36-44 
 
 Naples, I., II., III., IV., xiv., xv. 
 Neptune (Temple of), ix. 
 Nero, XI., xii., xiii. 109, 127, 
 
 137 
 Nesis or Nisida, xiv. 141 
 
 Nobility of Naples, 11., xv. 144, 
 
 148 
 
 OnocratuluSy iv. 38 
 Orcades Aiiates, iv. 39 
 Orsini (Palazzo), iv. 30 
 Ostia, XI. 
 Oysters, x. 
 
 Palace of Viceroy, 11., iv. 7 
 
 of Careffa, iv. 29 
 
 of Orsini, iv. 30 
 Panormita (Antonio Becca- 
 
 deUi), III. 25 
 Papyrus, iv. 25 
 Paul (St.), IX., XIV. 85 
 
 Peter (St.), iii. 16 
 Petrifactions, iv., xii. 
 Phlegraean Fields, viii. 74 
 Pictures on Chinese paper, iv. 
 
 43 
 Piscina Mirabilis, xiii. 133, 134 
 
 Plaster, xiii. 134 
 
 Pliny the Elder, v. 36 
 
 Pluto, X. 
 
 PoUtiwe, xiii. 135 
 
 Pompey, xiii. 
 
 Pontanus, in. 22, 23, 97 
 
 Pope's (the) suzeraignty, xv. 145 
 
 Portus Julius, X. 99 
 
 Posilipo, III., VI. 61 
 
 Postumus, IX. 
 
 Pozzuoli, III., v., IX., X., XIV. 13, 
 
 69, 84, 87-94 
 
 Procession, iv. 45 
 
 Prochyta, in. 5 
 
 Provisions, i. 2 
 
 Pumice stones, v., x. 51 
 
 Purgatory, viii. 79 
 
 Puteoli. See Pozzuoli 
 
 Revenue of Naples, xv. 146 
 
 St. Elmo, I. 3 
 
 St. Germano (Monastery of 
 VIII. 80 
 
 (Stufe di), VIII. 73 
 St. Vincent, n. 6 
 Salamander, iv. 40 
 Samians, ix. 86 
 Samnites, 86 
 
 Sedan chairs, xv. 156, 157 
 Sepulchre of Agrippina, xii. 128 
 
 of Virgil, VI. 61, 62 
 
 63 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 Serpents, vii. 
 
 Sibylls cave, xi. 107, 108 
 
 Silk, XV. 150 
 
 Sirens, 11. 10 
 
 Solfatara, viii. 13, 75 
 
 Spain and the Spaniards, i., xv. 
 
 6, 145, 149 
 Spartacus, v. 57 
 Streets of Naples, xv. 69, 153 
 Stufe di San Germane, viii. 73 
 Styx, XI. 108 
 Sulphur, VIII., xv, 84 
 
 Tarantulas, iv. 44 
 Temple of Apollo, xi. 106 
 
 of Augustus, IX. 89 
 
 of Castor and Pollux, in. 11 
 
 of Diana, xii. 120 
 
 of Neptune, ix. 88 
 
 of Venus, xii. 121 
 
 Temple of Vulcan, viii. 
 Theatines, in. 11 
 Three Kings (the), i. 
 Tiberius, i., xiii. 4, 131 
 Toledo (Pedro de), vii., ix. 3, 5, 
 
 63, 69, 70, 84, 124 
 Trade in Naples, xv. 150 
 Treasure-hunting, x. 98 
 Turkish pirates, xii. 124 
 slaves, VII. 
 
 Vesuvius, I., V. 51-59 
 
 Viceroy, 11., iv., xv., 7, 32, 45, 
 
 46, 149 
 Views in Naples, i., in., v., 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Virgil, VI., XI., xiii. 61, 62, 63, 
 
 104 
 Vorago, v. 54 
 Vulcan (Court of), vin. 75 
 
 64 
 
■ LIST OF AUTHORITIES 
 
 [The figures refer to the notes.) 
 
 Addison (Joseph) : Remarks upon Italy, 14, 68, 97, 116, 141, 
 
 142 
 Baedeker : Southern Italy is not quoted, but has been much 
 
 used. 
 Bailey's Dictionary , 27, 55 
 Barclay's Icon Animaruniy 26, 144 
 Berkeley (Bishop) : Works, 46, 52 
 Blondus : Italia lUustrata, 24 
 Browne (Sir Thomas) : Works, 39, 40, 44, 68, 108 
 Burnet (Bishop) : Travels, 2, 12, 28, 116, 134, 160 
 
 Cambridge Modern History (consulted). 
 Cicero : De Divinis, 108 ; Epistolce^ 125 
 Connor (Dr. Ralph) : De Antris Lefltiferis, 68 
 
 Erasmus : Letters, 20 
 
 Evelyn (John) : Diary, 34, 54, 145 ; Sylva, 27, 136 ; Miscel- 
 laneous Works, 136 
 
 Florio : Worlde of Wordes, 33, 38, 54 
 Furnival : Ballads, 55 
 
 Gr/EVIUS : Thesaurus, vol. ix., 23 
 
 Hallam : Literature of Europe (consulted). 
 
 Hare : Southern Italy (consulted). 
 
 Harleian Miscellany, 1, 3, 6, 7, 19, 34, i43) ^52 
 
 65 5 
 
John Evelyn in Naples 
 
 Haileian Society (Visitation of Bedfordshire), 158 
 Homer, 10, 64, 138 
 Horace, 91, 117, 119 
 
 Howell: Instruction to Forreine Travel, 34; Letters, 31, 48, 
 60, 108, 149 
 
 Keysler : Travels, 62 
 
 Lassels : Voyage into Italy, 2, 3, 12, 14, 20, 26, 28, 58, 66, 73, 
 
 116, 117, 133, 137, 138, 139, 140, 143, 147 
 LiTHGOW : Rare Adventures, 68, 96, 108 
 Lucretius, 103 
 
 Majolus (Simon) : Dies Caniculares, 71 
 
 Martial, 121, 123 
 
 Massinger : Works, 157 
 
 MiNSHEU : Guide unto Tongues, 54 
 
 MissoN : New Voyage into Italy, 11, 19, 22, 26, 28, 58, 76, 82, 
 
 93, 96, 103, 106, 116, 139 
 Moryson (Fynes) : Itinerary, i, 5, 6, 18, 65, 68, 70, 87, 92, 
 
 102, 107, 116, 128, 141, 143, 150, 153, 155, 156, 157 
 Murray : New English Dictionary, 27, 136 
 
 North's Plutarch, 57 
 
 Norway: Naples: Past and Present, 98, loi. [I am largel}^ 
 indebted to this book.] 
 
 Perth (Second Duke of) : Letters (Camden Society), 14 
 
 Petrarch : Carmina, 98 
 
 Philips : Worlde of Wordes, 54, 151 
 
 Plixy the Elder : N. H., 68, 74 
 
 Pliny the Younger : Epistolce, 56, 61 
 
 Pontanus : Hendecasyllabi, 97 
 
 pROPERTius, 117 
 
 Purchase : Pilgrimage, 79 
 
 Raymond : // Mercurio Italico, 8, 11, 48, 50, 116, 122, 134, 137, 
 
 138) 139) i44> 160 • 
 
 66 
 
List of Authorities 
 
 Sandys : Travels, 49, 58, 60, 61, 92, 102, 143, 145, 146, 153 
 
 Seneca : EpisfolcBy 117 
 
 SiLius Italicus, 61, 103, 105 
 
 Strabo, 52,75, 84, 103, n8 
 
 Statius, 61 
 
 Strafford's Letters, 157 
 
 Suetonius, 4, 95 
 
 n 
 
 Symonds : Sketches, etc., in Italy and Greece, 102 
 
 TiRABOSCHi : Storia delta Literatura Italiana, 25, 71 
 
 ViLLANi : Cronaca di Napoli, 61 
 Virgil, 103, 104, 129 
 ViTRUvius, 93 
 
 Walton : Complete Angler, 122 
 WiEL : Venetiafi Navy, 140 
 
 BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD