C50> \%16 «A Igceanicai fmtiK^tiir CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Gijt of Herbert Fisk Johnson '22 Cornell University Library F 2546.C56 1875 Explorations made in the vaiiey of the r 3 1924 020 077 123 DATE DUE JI4I T^ineojg P ^tc-J^ 15"^ fr« ..Js. ^* GAYLORD PRINTED rN U.S A. M "^ Cornell University WM Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924020077123 EXPLORATIONS MADE IN THE VALLEY OF THE ElVER MADEIRA, 1749 to 1868. PUBLISHED FOR THE NATIONAL BOLIVIAN NAVIGATION COMPANY. 1875. 25 ^L 18 75' ^ t'iUO(.l INDEX LntRUDLX"I'IIiX. Report to t}ie Imperial Government of Brazil, by Jose and Francisco Keller 1 Exploration of the Rivers, etc., of the Department of the Beni by Jose Augustin Pal.icios 77 Paper on the Bolivian Rivers by Thaddeiis Haenke . . . 122 The Rapids of the River Madeira, by Lieut. Gibbon, U. S. Navy 139 The Madeira and its Head Waters, by General Quintin Quevedo . 167 Fluvial Outlet for Bolivia, by Ygnacio Arauz .... 189 The Portuguese Exploiing Expedition of 1749, from Para to Mato Grosso, via the River Madeira 203 INTRODUCTION. The falls and rapids of the River Madeira, as the only barrier which exists between commercial nations and a direct access to the richest slope of the Andes, are worthy of the study of the geographer, the traveller, the lover of progress, and especially of those ambitious to develop commercial intercourse among nations. Those interested in defeating the efforts of Bolivia to open a trade avenue to the Atlantic have sought for and accepted in- formation from many sources relative to the country traversed by the river Madeira. Whether the informant was from Soudan, Sumatra, Chili, China, Patagonia or Peru, was immaterial, provided he possessed the primary qualification of never having been within a thousand miles of the district he professed to describe. With the hope of contributing to the knowledge of those who desire to impartially examine the geographical and engineering features of the problem Bolivia is endeavouring to solve, I have collected, translated, and caused to be translated the following works. These are the results of scientific and other voyages given to the world long previous to the time when 'the Government of Bolivia invited me to undertake the task of constructing a railway to connect the 3,000 miles of navigable upper waters of the Madeira with a point on the lower river called San Antonio, accessible to sea-going steamers. The first efforts to penetrate the valley of the Madeira were from its head waters, near Cuzco, upon the accession of the tenth King, the Ynca Yupanqui, to the throne of the Empire of the Yncas. He invaded Musu, now called Moxos, with an army of 10,000 men in a vast fleet of canoes, built for the purpose. Upon the conquest of Peru by Spain, several ex- peditions were sent to make discoveries in the region drained by the Beni, the Mamore', and other tributaries of the Madeira. The first was dispatched by Pizarro in 1539, and numbered 200 men, under Captain Candia. It penetrated to a populous to-v\-n called Opotari, only 30 leagues to the east of Cuzco. The ex- pedition, again reorganised under a new commander, Peranzures, explored much of the country towards the Beni and Moxos, penetrating fiO leagues from Cuzco over a well-cleared, Inca road. In 1.561, two different expeditions were organised by the Viceroy Count de Nieva, the only tangible result of which was Ihe founding of the town of Apolobamba. In 1.562, Anton de Gasto.s, with a small party, entered Moxos from Coehabamba and discovered the great river Mamore. In 1563, under authority from the Viceroy, Diego Aleman reached a point 60 leagues north of Cochabamba. In 1565, Luxan led a party of eight men in search of gold to a point 20 leagues north of Cochabamba, where they were all killed. The great expedition of Juan Alvarez Maldonado, of Cuzco, invaded the iloxos district .in i5(i7, and did not return until 1569, making mauj' valuable discoveries, and tracing the " east and west " course of the great Mayu-tata branch of the Beni river for a long distance. In 1569, a snail expedition of 60 men performed a journey on their own account north of Cochabamba into the valley of the Mamore, but were ordered back by the Audiencia de los Ch areas. Numerous other exploring and warlike parties continued to penetrate iloxos and Chiquitos during the settlement of the present Bolivia by the Spaniards. The eastern part of Bolivia, drained by the head waters of the Madeira, was settled by Spanish expeditions from Paraoiiay, the first important point populated being Santa Cruz de la Sierra. During the 16th and l7th centuries, the Jesuits and Fran- ciscans made numerous reductions of the Indians of the Beni, Moxos and Chiquitos, establishing many flourishing towns. vn The first expedition which ascended the Madeira into Bolivia of which I have beeti able to gain any knowledge was made by the Portuguese from the city .of Para in 1723, under Francisco Melho Palheta. No definite account of it has fallen into my hands. If any exists it is probably to be found in the Brazilian archives. The party reached the present Bolivian town of Exaltacion on the river Mamore. The first descent of the rapids of the Madeira of which I have found any account was made by a small party from Mato Grosso in 1742. In 1749, by conunand of the King of Portugal, a large expedi- tion ascended the Amazon, Madeira, and Itiuez rivers to Mato Grosso in Western Brazil. A full history of the exploration is found herein. Its lack of mxtliematical and scientific data renders it of little real value ; and it can only serve as a rough description of the country traversed. The sixteenth rapid which they found, and which is described on page 282, no longer exists. The river has cut away the small obstacles which caused the violent current then existing at that point. Next came Seilor Jos^ Augustin Palacios, a Bolivian engineer of much talent and painstaking observation, who, in 1844, was instructed by his Government to examine the Beni Department and explore also the rapids of the Madeira. He did this as well as the feeble means at his command would permit. The result is herein published, and his report is replete with valuable information. I found Senor Palacios still living at La Paz in 1872. In 18i3, the United States Government took a great interest in the problem of opening Bolivia to the commercial world. I have therefore thought it desirable to give extracts from the work of Lieut. Gibbon relative to his exploration of the falls of the Madeira. The pamphlet of Senor Arauz reproduced gives a few valuable and practical^ observations from an energetic Bolivian who has seen much of the country of which he speaks. In 18G1, the celebrated General Quintin Quevedo of Bolivia descended the rapids of the iladeira, and became so convinced TIU that tliis was the natural outlet of |his couutry, that he wrote the pamphlet found in these pages, describing the falls of the great river and the best method of surmounting them. When the boundary line treaty was made in 1867-S between Brazil and Bolivia, the former Government sent the Keller expedition to make a thorough examination of the rapids of the Madeira, and report upon the best method of avoiding these obstacles to commercial communication. The report ot the Messrs. Keller will be found of scientificintjrest, and for accurate and valuable data it is of great importance. My own journals kept in my descent of the Piray, the Mamord, and Madeira I have nfiYfir-published. The object of the present volume is to give in a compact form other evidence than my own relative to the river Madeira and the rich country which it drains, and to call greater attention to the vast system of natural canals which are destined to play a great role in the commercial and political history of South America. Very truly, GEORGE EARL CHURCH. (i^pteatbn a( % Jltb^r ffiabttra;. R E F* O m? OF J08E AND FRANCISCO KELLER, MADE TO THE IMPERIAL GOVEENMENT OF BEAZIL, PUBLISHED IN THE GOVEENMENT "EELATOEIO" OF 1870, Translated from Portuguese by GEORGE EARL CHURCH. LONDON : WATEELOW & SONS, PEINTEES, GEEAT WINCHESTEE STREET 1873. RELATION OF THE EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER MADEIRA: or THE PAET INCLUDED BETWEEN THE EAPID OF SANTO- ANTONIO AND THE MOUTH OF THE MAMOE^. A . — Introduction. B. — Short description of the voyage of the expedition. C. — CUmatic and geologic ideas. D , — Results, of hydrographic measurements. E. — Projects for the improvement of the actual route, as much with reference to facilitating navigation as to the con- struction of a marginal road. F, — Statistical data relative to commerce and the productions of the valley of the Madeira, Guapore, Mamore, and branches^ G. — Comparative calculation of freights by the different routes. H . — Conclusion. A — INTEODUCTION. By orders of the 10th October, 1867, we were charged by the Imperial Government to explore the Eiver Madeira, in the part filled with rapids from Santo-Antonio to the mouth of the Eivev Mamore, and to elaborate the most appropriate projects for the improvement of this important line of communication with the province of Mato-Grosso and the Eepublic of Bolivia. We embarked with this object the 15th day of November, 1867, on board the steamer Farcmd, of the line of steam-packets for the northern provinces, in which we arrived December 1st at Para ; and afterwards, taking the river-steamer Belem, we landed at the port of Manaos the 10th December. The then President of the Province of Amazonas, Dr. Jos6 Coelho da Gama e Abreu, who knows perfectly the climatic character of those regions, informed us that the season of the year was least favourable to imdertake such an exploration, the ascending of the rapids and the study of the river in the time of floods being difficult and arduous. That we might employ otir time in a useful manner, His Excellency, the same President, in accord with His Excellency the Minister, instructed us to make a plan of a part of the course of the river Negro, as well as that of the city of Manaos. The latter work was executed with all exactitude by ■ our assistant, Mr. Jose Manuel da Silva, but for the execution of the first it was not possible to find at Manaos or in its vicinity the necessary number of oarsmen to man two canoes, it remained in project, and in place of it we made a plan and estimate for the recon- struction of one of the bridges existing in the city which was in a ruined condition. To our great regret, it was during this time Dr. Gama e Abru removed to the Province of Goyaz as President, and all our efforts to obtain of his successor the persons necessary to enable us to comply with the orders of His Excellency the Minister of Public Works relative to the exploration of the river Madeira were fruit- less ; not even could we obtain the number of guards, nor the small steamer Jurupensen, which, with so^mueh economy for the public coffers, might have carried the personnel and train of the expedition to Santo-Antonio, although she was unemployed and at the disposal of the President himself in the port of Manaos. With the firm resolution to accomplish the honourable mission with which we had been charged, despite all impediments and mischances, we applied to Mr. Ignacio Araus, Tice-Consul of the Republic of Bolivia, who at that time was at Manaos. He Laving already received previous notice from his Government with respect to the projected exploration, showed himself disposed to aid us in every way possible. It was through him that we made the acquaintance of a Bolivian merchant, who had been to Para, and. from there was returning to Bolivia. We agreed then, that, from the residence of the above Vice-Oonsul, the merchant should furnish a ■well-manned canoe for the use of the expedition, and that from Serpa to that place we were to go in our own canoe. The said Vice-Consul gave us hopes that in Bolivia we might find, finally, through his Government, a suiScient number of oarsmen to return and execute the hydrographic studies. In spite of having in this manner the disgust of seeing a commis- sion under orders of the Imperial Government continue its voyage under the auspioies of a private individual, we were forced to accept the proposition, and after having bought a canoe of 300 arrobas burden in Serpa of Major Damaso de Souza Barriga, badly con- structed and in a bad condition for want of another, we continued our voyage the 30th May, 1868, following the Bolivian merchant with only seven boatmen, when the canoe required at least twelve. B.— DESCEIPTION OP THE VOYAGE. The cargo of our craft consisted of supplies for four months, iron for construction and repair of the canoe, medical instruments, awnings and tents. The Amazon being 55 palms or 12 metres above low water, it was impossible for us to overtake the Bolivian merchant, who had the start, for want of a favourable wind, and against a strong current. In the town of Borba, 25 leagues above the mouth of the Madeira, where we arrived the 9th of June with a still reduced crew, from the fact that two of our rowers ran away from us, it was impossible to obtain from the authorities the aid necessary to engage others. After having passed a settlement of Muras Indians, called Sapu- caia-oroca, the island of Araras and the mouth of the Eiver Ari- puana, we had, on the night of the 14th- 15th of June, to unload and repair our craft in all haste, for it made water so fast that it threatened to founder. On the afternoon of the 15th we passed to the rocks of Urod.* At this place the fall of the river augments considerably, and the main channel on the left side, bet-vreen the island of the same name and the main land, has, in the season of low water, only a depth of 1 J metres of water over the layers of sandstone. On the 18th of June we finally arrived at the establishment of Sefior Ignacio Araus, where the Bolivian merchant awaited us with impatience. After having transhipped the cargo into a more appropriate canoe, we returned the first to Major Damaso do Souza Barriga, in Serpa. The party consisted in all of eight whites and seventy Bolivian Indians from the missions of the Mamore, as rowers and pilots of the seven canoes, and thus we continued our voyage the 21st of June. The waters of the river, which were yet six metres above low water, were going down continually, and the banks, which crumbled all along, required great attention, principally in the selection of an anchorage. On the 27th of June we left the Baetas, at the mouth of the little affluent on the left bank of the Madeira, where, a few years ago, there was a malocoa of Muras Indians, who dispersed on account of being persecuted by recruiters. On the 30th of June we met a family of these same Muras, true nomads of the Amazon, who in ten small canoes were going up the river to be present on the banks of the Upper Madeira at the time the turtles go there to lay their eggs. For some days they followed our canoes, and thus we were able to buy from them some turtles, for the hunting of which they have, with an arrow termed sararaca, an extraordinary aptitude. The river was then at medium height, and was five metres above low water mark, as we learned from some indiarubber collectors, and also by the elevation of the characteristic vegetation on the river margins. Above the place called Tres-Casas, we visited the shed of some Bolivian rubber gatherers, who with a number of Mojos Indians, employed themselves in the extraction of this lucrative resin. They * Note by Teanslatoh.— Much doubt exists about the depth of water at this pomt. It was passed, so I have been informed by good authority, by the steamer Jammanj, drawing 8 feet of water, in the" driest of the dry season of 1872 showed themselves exceedingly satisfied with the hope of seeing in a short time the waters of the lower Maderia at least ploughed by- steamers, and filled with hope with regard to the results of the exploration with which we were entrusted. On the 5th of July we arrived near Crato, now a cattle farm, for which the neighbouring fields, only in part known, and which in all probability extend as far as the Beni, are admirably adapted. At the date of our arrival the detachment of San Antonio was there, wMch, on- account of the fever season that prevails every year at San Antonio at the beginning of the rainy period, had retired to a healthier place. The commander of the detachment, for whom we brought orders from the Government, received us most cordially, and it was through him that we became acquainted with the actual proprietor of the place. Captain Tenorio. The flourishing establishment, for the foundation of which the first cattle came from Bolivia from the estates of the distinguished Brazilian citizen, Antonio de Barros Cardozo, who was the first to have the nerve to transport cattle in launches or great canoes along the rapids of the Madeira. This establishment, we repeat, will one day be of immense advantage to the Province of Amazonas, which lacks in fresh meat. The width of the river front of Crato is 900 metres, while 1,000 metres below, at the the widest point at the islands, it is 1,500 metres. The climate of Crato is excellent, despite the unfortunate fame which the outpost of the same name enjoyed in colonial times and the first years of independence. It would appear all the more extraordinary since the neighbouring fields always existed, and since no greater destruction has occurred, if it were not known that the old Crato is not located in the same place ; but, beyond doubt, higher up at the mouth of the Jammary, a place which to-day is yet reputed as very unhealthy. The river Madeira at this time had already lowered to 4 mStres above low water mark. The banks of sand on the convex sides showed themselves more and more. We cannot fail to mention h.ore a grave fact of which the rubber collectors of the Madeira generally complain, it is that the Indian boatmen of the Bolivian canoes, with the consent and approval of their masters, who often fail to bring with them sufficient supplies for such a long voyage, constantly rob the neighboiiring farms on the river margins, even opposing force to the proprietor who wishes to defend the fruits of his work. To remedy this evil, at least to a certain extent, the authorities at the port of departure for the canoes, in Serpa, should require the owner of the boats to prove that his supplies are sufficient for his crew ; considering that the length of the voyage is almost always the same. At the detachment in Crato or in San Antonio the same could be again examined, holding responsible the owners of the canoes, who are almost always the same, for the damages to the complaining rubber gatherers. On the 10th of July we passed the Island of Abelhas, taking the channel of the left margin, that of the opposite margin being in part obstructed by rocks of ferruginons conglomerate which is so frequently found in the vast valley of the Amazon. The mouth of the Pirapitinga being passed, we arrived at that of the Jammary which has two mouths, its width being 50 metres. The fisheries at the mouth of this stream are extraordinary, and this would be an excellBnt point for a settlement were it not for the malignant fevers which infest it. The 1 6th of July we passed the Island of Mutuns and the shore Tamandua, where, in the month of September thousands of turtles, which go up the river, deposit their eggs in the sand. It is the same place where a great number of rubber gatherers, fishermen, &c., annually meet for the purpose of collecting eggs for the manufacture of butter, and to turn over and carry away a great number of turtles. The destruction proceeding from these manufactures of butter can be estimated, say by an approximate calculation. There are 2,000 jars of butter made on the shore. Now, as for each jar 2,000 eggs more or less are required, as I am informed, it amounts to the enormous quantity of 4,000,000 of eggs, the number annually destroyed, to make an oU which hardly serves for a lamp. Tet, uot contented with the destruction of eggs, and with the carrying off thousands of great turtles, they return again after a certain time to carry away canoe-loads of the small turtles, scarcely out of the sheU. In consequence of such great destruction repeated every year, aside from hunting them, which is done at all times with arrows, these animals must diminish considerably, and if the Government does not take some means to restrict at least the manufacture of butter, which has an advantageous substitute in oils of vegetable origin, this important article of food for the in- habitants of the province of Amazonas will disappear little by Httle. On the I6th of July we finally arrived at the rapid of San Antonio, at an elevation of 61™ 6 above the level of the sea. On the left bank we caught sight of the huts of straw of the de- tachment, which, in consequence of the fevers we have already stated, had retired to Crato. At this first rapid it is necessary to unload the canoes and transport everything 450 metres over the rocks on the left bank. Accompanying the Indian boatmen we discovered on different ledges of granite rook on the left bank open grooves in the rock, which showed straight lines crossing each other, now at acute angles, now at right angjes, and presenting in the cavities, of 0™ .01 of depth, a polished surface. Later we found , the same signs in greater numbers on the rooks at the fall of Theo- tonio, and upon others higher up ; yet at the rapid of Eibeirao, below the mouth of the small affluent that gives its name to the rapid, we found, in a ledge on the right bank, and almost at low- water level, clearly defined signs in the extremely hard rock, which have the character of letters, of which the eaten outlines indicate an extraordinary age. The great and patient labour which was necessary to cut these grooves in stone of this nature, without any iron tools, and only by erosion with another stone, leads to the belief that these signs are not the labour of indolence, and that they have some signifi- cation, principally those of Eibeirao, which form an interesting parallel with the rough representations of celestial objects and of animals upon the rocks of the Orinoco, described by Humboldt. 10 Macacos — Theotonio. On the 18th July we arrived at the current of Macacos^ from which is seen the smoke -which rises from the fall of Theotonio. The height of the faU of a rapid depends upon the condition of the river, that is, of the height of the waters ahove low water. We found that of Theotonio three metres ahove low water was eight metres. The width of the river was 1,100 metres, so that despite the enormous volume of water and the height ahove, the picturesque efPect of the faU was not great. The hills on each side of the fall are from thirty to fifty metres high. The temperature of the hank of sand helow the fall whero we had rested was almost insupportable, and passed 32"^ E. The canoes after being unloaded are carried over the land on rollers, over an elevation of fifteen metres, where yet are found walls of the outpost, which at the close of the past century the Portuguese Government ordered to be established at this point. After having transported the cargo' a distance of 500 metres- above the fall and the canoes by land, one of these unfortunately, by a blow against'a stone, stove in some holes ; but the voyager on the Madeira carries all his iron and carpentry with him, and in less than a day the canoe was repaired. This delay, like analogous ones at other rapids, were always improved by making astronomi- cal and hypsometrical observations, for which, at least, going up- stream, the sky being clear, the best occasion offered. The riches in fish (sumbins, pintados, tambakis, etc.) in the still water'below the fall is astounding, and at certain seasons of the yearthey can betaken with a harpoon at the moment they make efforts to overcome the small rapids below the principal fall. MoEBINHOS. On the 22nd of July we continued our voyage, arriving in the afternoon at the rapid of Morrinhos, which has two distinct falls ; the lower one of 1™- 50 the upper of O"- 70 at the time in which the river is 5 m. above low-water. At the first it was necessary to u unload and have the canoes dragged up by ropes, the second was ascended loaded. On the 25th, between the Morrinhos and the Caldeirao do Inferno, about ten leagues of distance without any impediment, we found some canoes contructed of the bark of the Jatuba, of the Caripunas who inhabit the banks in this . neighbourhood. The crew, men and women, to the number of ten or twelve, of whom the first were nude, invited us to go to their mahcca, which we did, presenting them with knives, treasures, fish-hooks, etc. In exchange they gave us some mandioca roots and some corn in the ear. All com- ported themselves well, and we separated in perfect amity. Some days after, we met above the Caldeirao do Inferno a second horde of Caripunas, of whom in our descent, we bought in exchange for some iron, part of the rich captures they had made in hunting the tapir and the wild-hog. All of them upon either of these occasions behaved themselves always with the same calmness, without showing fear or hostile intentions of any kind. Thus it appears to us since they had only a few years previously attacked several different parties, but now recognise it to be more advan- tageous to themselves to live in peace, that religious instruction would now find fertile ground among them. It would be sufiicient for a missionary to appear among them furnished with some sulphate of quinine to alleviate their fevers, to which they are equally subject, and by this means for ever gain their affections. In a short time this poor tribe would be transformed into beings who would be of some use to the human community. Some old navigators of the Madeira assured us that during the last 15 or 18 years the Caripunas have considerably diminished in number, but none of them could inform us if it was in conseqaence of illness or on account of their retiring further from the bank of the river and from contact with the white man, so often fatal to them. The number of members of each one of the tribes or families which we found in the ascent or descent did not exceed fifty, the total one hundred persons. 12 Caideibao do Inferno. The 26th, we saw up stream in the morning a line of hills and at mid-day we arrived at the lower part of the dangerous rapid of Caldeirao do Inferno. All along the left bank of the river, and on one of the islands, rudely-made crosses give proof of the sad fame of tMs rapid. Not only the terrible whirl, another Charybdia, at the upper entrance of it, which has already engulphed several canoes, MUing all their crews, but it also appears that the fevers of this part of the river are more perilous than in any other. Among the persons who have lost their Uves at this rapid we will only cite the Peruvian Colonel of Engineers, Maldonado, who, persecuted in his country for political motives some five or six years since, embarked upon the Madre de Dios, descended by this to the Beni, and by the Beni to the Madeira, dying at the rapid of Caldeirao do Inferno. He thus furnished material proof that the Madre de Dios is an affluent of the Beni and not of the Purus. It is to be regretted that all the papers of Maldonado were lost on this occasion. Two of the rowers alone barely saved themselves. They were ignorant men who were unable to give extended infor- mation upon the region traversed. Our party also had to pay a tribute to this sad spot. "We were obHged to bury one of our Indian rowers who died of inflammation of the intestines, probably caused by excessive eating and constipa- tion by the cold at night. The bed of the river of this rapid is very irregular and divided by seven large islands, into branches of different sizes. At medium high water and floods the canoes take the channel of the left bank, but at low-water this channel becomes nearly dry, and voyagers find themselves almost obliged to take the centre canal where the slightest inattention in the management of the canoe carries it to the abyss. The total height of the fall, which is distributed in two principal volumes, is four metres at medium water. On the 27th of July we saw the hills, which are at the foot of the faU of Girao, whose general direction is from north-east to south-west. -The bed of the river narrows from 1,500 to 700 metres 13 and the total faU of the strong rapid, at the time at which the waters were two mitres above low- water mark, is eight metres, the the entire length being 900 metres. At this point, 98 metres above the level of the sea, the thermometer at night descended to 15° E. it being during the day 32° E. And the temperature of the sand on the shores 48° E. The transportation of the cargoes and the dragging over land the canoes for a distance 720™ demanded a persevering work of about fouj days and only on the 31st of July were we able to con- tinue our voyage. GlEAO. The 1st of August we arrived at a point where the strata of argillaceous gritstone, which appear at the bend, are known to navigators under the denomination of Pedras de Amolar. There the strong currents require the employment of ropes, still con- tinuing upwards for four currents more, created by some banks of ferruginous conglomerate, which are passed in the same manner. At flood time nothing can be seen of aU these currents, the river becoming perfectly levelled. Tees-Iemaos. The same afternoon we arrived at the stronger current of Tres- Irmaos, which has a fall of 0™ 80, and close by, above it, is found the mouth of the river of the same name, 25™ wide. On the left bank some hills are seen. They attain the height of 50™ to 60™ above the level of the river. The bed of the river, divided by a large island into two parts, is strewed with granitic rocks, yet offering channels of sufficient depth for navigation. Pabbdao. The 3rd and 4th of August we passed the cachoeira (rapid) of Paredao, the fall of which is divided into two parts. The lesser, one m^tre high, is surmounted by ropes. The upper is divided by a promontory of huge blocks of granite, characterized by enormous feldspathic crystals ; advances for 70 metres from the 14 right bank, and requires all tte canoes to be unloaded and their cargoes carried overland. The difference of level caused by the advanced rocks is l^ 50 with the river 3" above low water. The width of the river divided by two islands into two branches is 1,000'". Pedeexeiea. The following day we arrived at Cachoeira Pedemeira, so called from the veins of quartz which appear in the seams of the meta- morphic rocks. The total faU is 1™ 70, and the cargoes are carried overland. At this point the hiUs constantly became more distant from the margin, and the meagre and mixed vegetation gives with the general impression of the passage an immoderate feeling of sad monotony. The part of the river just above Pederneira is from its slight fall the most appropriate for navigation. A little above Pederneira is found on the left bank the mouth of the river Abima, 60" wide. Abaeas. The next rapid is Araras, with a fall of 1" 60 and an island, the river attaining at the same point the considerable width of 1,500" The united force of all our crews, more than seventy men, was necessary to haul up our canoes one after the other through the strong currents of the left bank. Peeiquitos. The cirrrent following, that of Periquitos, is caused by the rocks, which obstruct the bed of the river. It has a difference of level of 1" 6 at low water. It was overcome in the same way. RlBEIEAO. On the 9th of August at midday we arrived at the lower part of the cachoeira of Eibeirao. It is formed by five distinct rapids, of which the last of 5" is the most considerable. The entire fall is 13" at low water. The total length of this long series of ob- stacles to navigation is nearly six kilometres or one league. The 15 passage of the canoes at the different points depends, as at all the others, upon the height of the water. "When we went up, ahout about 1" 50 above low water, we passed the first by means of ropes without much difficulty, with reference to the second and third, it was necessary to unload the canoes. It was at this point where the unknown inscription above mentioned is found upon a block of stone. In the passage of the third a small canoe [montaria of the Amazon) slipped from the cable and went to the ^bottom, the bowman escaping by a miracle. For the passage of the last fall, called Cabeqa do Eibeirao, it is not only necessary to carry by land the cargoes, but also drag the canoes a distance of 300 metres. It was near this last point that, at the side of the small Eibeirao, from which the rapid takes its name, there existed thirty years ago a military outpost, the commander of which was assassinated by the Caripuna Indians for violence practised against them. The passage of the Gachoeira of Eibeirao took us six days : that is from the 9th to the 15th of August. MiSERICOKDIA. The current of Misericordia,- a little above Eibeirao, comes from two advanced rocks on the right bank. It is one of the most ditEcult to pass in high water ; at low water it offers scarcely any obstacle whatever. It is one of those interesting localities where, by the character of the banks, the declivity at floods is greater than at low water, the profile across which the floods have to pass being much smaller than that of the profile usually found at the rapids where the width is generally above the normal. It is an error committed at times, even by engineers, in not observing that the difference of level of a rapid, or the fall of it is not constant, but varies with the height of water generally in the same direction, but at times opposite, as happens in the present instance. Madeiea. In the afternoon we arrived in a heavy tempest at the rapid of Madeira, after passing with the cable a small fall of 0" 75, with 16 the vater two metres above low water. Tte feU of the principal rapid, the river being in the same condition, is 2^ 50. At the rocks and points of the islands of this rapid are found enormous accumulations of wood, principally of cedar trunks from the Beni, the mouth of which is found a little above. At the same place, a few months before our arrival, a Bolivian merchant was assassinated by his own Indian rowers, and some of our men found a trunk in the bushes with some of his goods and papers, which were afterwards sent to the Bolivian authorities. The mouth of the river Beni, the waters of which are of a yeUow coloTir, has a width of 1,002™ without the islands found at the same point. Lages. In the afternoon we arrived at the C'ackoeira of Lages, where, up stream, is seen a line of lulls. The rapid has 2™ 70 of fall, with 3™ of low water, and a length of 700 metres. We passed it the 18th of August, by ropes, with the canoes loaded. In flood time, when by the exceptional configuration of the bed, the incliiie aug- ments, it is necessary to unload the canoes transporting the loads by land a distance of about 2,000 metres. Pao Grande. The rapid of Pao Grande, with a total fall of 2 m 10, which is distributed along 275 metres of length, is passed by towing along the left bank of the river with the canoes unloaded. Above the rapid, on the left margin is found the mouth of the river Jata, 40™ wide. The waters of the Madeira, above the mouth of the Beni, appeared to us clearer. The width of the river was considerably reduced, and the elevation of the land upon the banks was less, without, however, decending below the flood level, as the character of the vegetation clearly showed. Banakeieas. Before arriving at the fall of Bananeiras, we had to overcome two small currents. At this considerable fall of a total height of 17 6 " 35, witli 3 "■ above low water, we arrived the 19tli of August, after having sought in vain for a practicable channel in the labyrinth of rocks formed just below it. The passage of the fall, which required the entire unloading of the canoes and the transportation of these over the rocks in the middle of the river, took us two days. In the night, from the 21st to the 28th, we had, after an extra- ordinary drought, a heavy thunderstorm with rain, in consequence of which the thermometer of Reaumur descended at dawn to 11". A short distance up the river the Serra of Pacoa-Nova was observable with its summits 100 ™ above the level of the river. The river is free and has a normal width of 275 metres. GuAJARA-GtTASSrr. On the 23rd of August, we arrived at the rapid of Guajara- Guassu, the next to the last of the long series of obstacles. It has a fall of 1 "° 70 in a length of 200 metres. The loads were carried overland and the canoes were towed up by water. Guajaba-Meeim. The following day we passed the last, Guajara-Merim, which with a faU of 1 ™ 25 in a distance of 500 " does not offer great difficulty. It was at this point that we met a large party of ten Bolivian canoes, loaded with hides and taUow, and by the proprietor of them, who was from Santa-Cruz de la Sierra, we were enabled to send letters to Para and Eio de Janeiro. The same day we reached still farther, to the mouth of the stream of Pacca-Nova at the foot of the range of hills of the same name. The character and features of the river above Guajara-Merim, change entirely. The inclination is perfectly regulai and very small. The margins of alluvium with the igapos^ on the convex side, the steep banks on the concave, and the old beds of the river, almost closed and filled up appear like those of the lower Madeira. Some rocks of ferruginous conglomerate which are occasionally • Note by Tbansiatob. — See p. 31. 18 found here and there in mid-river offer no obstacle wliatever to navigation, and it makes one sad to see so great a river extension, navigable for large steamers, separated from the equally navigable lower part by the impediments of the rapids. The canoes of the expedition were all more or less in a defective condition owing to the passages over the rocks. They required indis- pensable repairs ; consequently an appropriate place was selected to haul them out of the water and caulk them with oakum of the country, which the chestnut trees of the neighbouring forest gave in abundance. The Mauok^. The 1st of September at 8 o'clock in the morning we arrived at the mouth of the river Mamore, or better, the junction of the Ma- more with the Quapore or Itenez. The width of the first is 300 metres, and of the last, 600. The waters of the Gruapor6, the colour of which is of a bright green, differed much from the yellow waves of the Mamore, despite its not having attained as yet its lowest stage. The temperature of the waters of the Mamorl was less by some degrees than those of the Guapore. At the junction of the two rivers, and on the lands immediately below and above, live a tribe of Indians, whose name itself is not known ; although they have ali'eady acquired a sad fame from the frequent assassinations they have committed with unheard of temerity, as well among the crew of canoes as among the soldiers of the Fort of Principe da Beira, who go fishing in sight of the Fort. The vegetation of these lands, in comparison to that of the region of the rapids, is of a notable poverty and scantiness, proceed- ing from the quality of the soil which already forms a transition for that of the fields. At night, from the spots we occupied on the vast shores of the Mamore, we could sometimes see the light caused by the biu-ning prairies of the ancient missions. The transition of the prairies was every day more visible, and e 19 already in many places the zone df the low elu-ubs upon the margins was narrower; 'aUowing us to see the vast horizon, behind it. A fresh north-east wind carried our canoe in a short time to tht Cerrito,* the estate of St. Antonio do Barros Oardozo, on the bank of the Mamore. This distinguished BraaHian citizen, who has lived in BoHvia for 15 years, was one of the first to ascend the Madeira in modern times with large craft of 600 arrobas tonnage. He received us with the greatest affabihty, offering us all in his power and his valuable aid. By lending us canoes, which were required, and providing us with necessary supplies, he gave signal servioe to the expedition as he had before done to former explorers, (Gibbon) and to merchants. Sr. Cardozo had the kindness to accompany us to Exaltacion, the first town found on the margin of Mamore, at some leagues distance above the Cerrito. At Exalta- cion he placed his house at our disposal, for ouv residence during the time we were forced to remain at said place to treat for the enlistment of rowers for our return. The voyage from Serpa to Exaltacion where we arriv.ed on the 10th of September, was 103 days. The total distance traversed was about 300 leagues. The Corregedor or Administrator of the town of Exaltacion de Santa Cruz, to whom we had to apply to engage the Indian rowers, informed us that, in anticipation, the Prefect of the department of the Beni had received orders from the Crovernment of the Eepublic to render all aid to the expedition. He did not doubt that we should be able in a short time to find the necessary number of Indians. At the same time he might have added, that in the town of Exaltacion, there were but fifteen available men. We judged it advisable to consult with the Prefect of the department, despite the distance of more than sixty leagues, which still separated us from the capital of Trinidad. Francisco Keller was the member of the commission entrusted with this task. He was well received by the Bolivian authorities, and especially by the Prefect, A. Morant, and after an absence of eleven days, succeeded in bringing to Exaltacion specific orders for the Corregedores of Exaltacion and of 8. Joaquim to furnish the • Note by Tbanslatob. — Now the property of the National Bolivian NaTJgation. Company. 20 balance of the rowers, he himself bringing eight at the same time from Trinidad. In this interval of time the canoes, suppL'es, etc., were obtained, so that upon the arrival of the rest of the crew, on the 15th of October we were able to set out immediately for Oerrito, where the final preparations, repairs of canoes, etc. , had to be made. The convoy was formed of five craft of diflferent sizes, with a total of 32 crew ; this being the minimum of men that can be taken for a certain tonnage of canoes, on account of the dragging by land. The size and quality of the craft were as follows : — 1. Kgaleota lent by Sr. Cardozo ; burden 150 arrobas. 2. hM igariti bought in Trinidad ; burden 200 arrobas. 3. An uba lent by Sr. Cardozo ; burden 45 arrobas. 4. An uba for measuring. 5. A montaria (small canoe) for measuring. ExALTACIOir. Before describing our return, allow us to give some data relative to the town of Esaltacion, the old Jesuit mission, in lat. S. 13° 18' 20", longitude West of Eio 22° 42' 40", and at an elevation above the sea of 159™ 20 (height of the level of the Mamor6 at low water, in the lower port of the Mission.) Exaltacion de la Santa Cruz, is situated in the midst of the prairie, in one of the immense bends of the Mamore, on the lands of the Cayubabas Indians. The date of its foundation was probably at the end of the I7th centtu-y. The width of the river at low water is 200 metres, and the elevation of the land of the margins above the same level is 12 metres. The medium depth of the water in time of drought is sufficient the whole of the distance to Trinidad for craft that draw one metre. ElSE OP ElVER. At the end of October the river commences to rise, inundating a little the prairies for a considerable distance, and barely leaving Ihe highest points like islands out of the water. In Exaltacion, for instance, the waters reach up to the church door. 21 The streets of the town are regularly traced, crossing each other at right angles, and leaving in the centre a spacious plaza, on the front of which are found located the church and the ancient college. This general arrangement is the same in all the missions founded by the Jesuits, as we can attest from the ruins of the missions of Nossa Senhora do Loreto and of Santo Ignacio, on the banks of the Paranapanema in the province of Parana. By the remainder of the houses on the prolongation of the streets the number of the old population may be readily calculated at 3,000, the present being scarcely 1,800. The houses of the Indians, which are contiguous, and along the front of which runs a veranda, are constructed of alcoves, and covered partly with tiles and partly with thatch. The church and college are built in the same manner, and it is very interesting to observe how, with such limited means, without stone and lime, they managed to build an edifice of a marked architectural character. Still, to-day, as nothing is done to preserve these edifices, they are falling little by little, and part of the college is ah'eady in ruins. In the interior of the church are the altars and pulpit, first-clasa works of the carver's art. The sacristy holds great wealth im worked silver, which with greater advantage might be employed in the material repairs of the town, all the more so as, for many years, there has been no vicar. The digging of wells, for example, to supply the town with good water, which it lacks much, would be one of the most necessary improvements. Among the causes which tend to contribute to the decadence of so flourishing a town we wiU cite the fevers which of late years appear to have taken an endemic character. The growth of the use of intoxicating drinks, the almost total destruction of the old riches in cattle, and the budding navigation of the Eiver Madeira — im consequence of which part of the Indians have removed to Brazilian territory, while elsewhere they pay with their Hves the fatigues and privations of long journeys — are other numerous reasons of decadence. Their tillage is insignificant. They cultivate only as much corn, mmidioca,, and tobacco as they require for their own consumption. 'r2 Tlie excessively low pay which they receive when they >Tork for ft white man and the innate indolence of this race make it extremely difficult to engage workmen there for any service. Only hy means of the cacique, who maintains as yet a certain moral influence over them, can a large number of rowers be obtained. The total indigenous population of the Department of the Beni is about 30,000 soids, they being distributed in fifteen missions or towns of the following names : — 1 . Trinidad del Beni, capital. 2. Nuestra Senora de Loreto. 3. San Ignacio. 4. San Javier. AU these formed by the Mojos tribe, properly called, 5. San Pedro, by the Gcunichanm Indians. 6. San Eamon. 7. Santa Maria Magdalena. 8. San Jose de Guacaraje, by the Itonamas Indians. 9. Nuestra Seiiora de Concepcion de Baures. 10. Nuestra Senora del Carmen de Chapacora. 11. San Joaquim, by the Baures Indians. 12. Exaltacion de la Santa Cruz, by the Cayubabas. 13. Santa Ana, by the Mobimas. 14. Eeyes; 15. San Borja, by the Maropas. In the chapter which treats upon the commerce and agriculture of the Madeira and Mamore we will resume the subject of the missions. On the 19th of October, 1868, we left the estate of Cerrito to make, as decided, the detailed plan of the course of the river, and to make, moreover, some measurements of the cubic volume of the waters of the Mamore, the Beni, and the Madeira. The astrono- mical and hypsometrical observations were concluded ascending. We regretted otu- inability to continue the exploration of the Upper Gruapore, especially as near the fort of Principe da Beira there yet exists another rapid of which no explorer speaks. More- over, the advanced season of the year and the detention which a voyage up the Q-uapore would have occasioned, would have let slip 23 the principal aim of the expedition, the examination of the rapids of the Madeira. It would have suffered-considerably, especially as the waters of the rivers were already rising, and .as the soundings offer but little interest if they are not taken when the river is low. We therefore gave up the idea. The opening of a straight track the length of the rapids became impossible, as the President of the province of Amazonas did not furnish us the necessary men for whom we o£B.ciaUy asked several times, and the Bolivian Indians are with difficulty engaged at great cost for a voyage by water. Such an opening would only be valuable to study better the forests between the Madeira and the Tapajos, for the track of a cart road must perforce follow the course of the river more or less, on account of the considerable elevation of the Serra of Pacca Nova, which is no other than a continuation of the Serra-Geral, which divides the waters of the affluents of the Amazon from the head waters of the Paraguay. The pretended shortening of the length of the road is only illusory, because the configuration of the land in no case permits a tracing of a direct line from one terminal point to the other ; and, in all probability, the curves of the smaU affluents which it would be necessary to foUow to reach the culminating point of the serra woidd be greater than those of the river. StiU it is not alone the length of the line, but also its profile which influences its selection, and this last will be difficult so soon as the general slope of the vaUey of the great river is abandoned. The American, Gibbon, who, not being a professional, first sug- gested the idea of a straight line of 40 to 50 leagues traversing these mountains, which could not have escaped his observation, after all only speaks of a common mule road. Such a road would be entirely insufficient in this case, and the actual navigation, im- perfect as it is, is many times preferable. As we have said above, there exists near the fort of the Principe da Beira, a rapid, which at low water requires the complete unload- ing of canoes, while at floods the same loads are hauled up the river with greater facility. From this rapid down there are only found light currents in the Guapore, which not so much for their 24 rapidity as from the lack of water, oppose difficulties to navigation. This want of sufficient water in dry times is stiU greater above VUla Bella ; and the junction of the head waters of the Guapore, with one of those of the Jauru could not he effected except by means of canalization with sluices or locks over a long distance down stream. The 21st October we found ourselves at the mouth of the Mamore, where we preceded to take an exact measurement of the cubic volume of the waters of the two rivers Mamore and Guapore, occupying ourselves two days at this work. On the 24th of October we arrived at the island called the CavaUo Marinho, where we commenced detailed measurements with the micrometer. GUA. JIA-MeKIM. GtTAJABA-GuASSTJ. A strong tempest at night announced the approach of the rainy season of the Madeira, which having already reached its lowest stage, was now Om. 85 above low-water mark. The explorations and soundings of Guajara-Merim were made the following day, despite the rain, and only at Guajara-Guassu was there an indispen- sable delay for the transportation of the cargoes by land. Bananeiras. The 27th of October, with the river risen 0™ 90 above low water, we passed the fall of Bananeiras. One of our craft struck against the shore, and such was the force and weight of the furious waves, that the most persevering work of the whole crew was necessary to save it. Some of the Indian rowers and one of the Engineers of the Commission was attacked at the same time with intermittent fever, which was immediately treated with sulphate of quinine. The heat (35° E.) was excessive, and at night we had a heavy tempest. Pao-Geande. — Lages. On the 30th we arrived with the measurements at the rapid of Pao-Grande, which was passed by rowing through the main channel, as well as that of Lages. 25 The Beni. The 2nd of November we reached the mouth of the Beni, where we entered to measure the volume of the waters. The Beni appeared to be at that time 2m. above low-water, and had a medium velocity of Im. 50 per second. The margins are five and six metres above low-water, and up the river, for a distance of two leagues, a rich vegetation and high banks indicate high land. For lack of time, we could not carry into effect the idea of ascending to the first rapid. Madeira. — Misericokdia. At the rapid of Madeira the cargoes were carried overland, while the canoes passed by water. With greater ease Misericordia cur- rent was passed. RiBEIEAO. The passage of Eibeirao, which demanded the entire unloading of the canoes in two places, took us two days, so that only on the 5th did we find ourselves below it. The weather continued almost always rainy during the time, with the sky overcast. Peeiquitos — Araeas. Periquitos as well as Araras we passed rowing, The 7 th November, we continued, despite the rain, with our measurements, but we were finally forced- to stop and erect harracas and tents. Pedeeneiea — Paeedao. The following day, with little rain, we were able to^ontinue, passing Pederneira and arriving in the evening at Paredao, which we also passed, rowing in the middle of the angry waters of the main channel. Tres-Iemaos. The 1 1th of November, the river being already 3 metres above low stage, we passed Tres-Irmaos. We regretted that we could not ascend one of the Uttle hiUs on the left bank, from which might be enjoyed a most beautiful surrounding view, as the weather was 2fl cloudy and inappropriate. More and more we found ourselves more or less attacked by tlie fever, and debilitated by the privations inevitable in such a long journey. GlRAO. Arriving at the fall of Q-irao, we found that two of the canoes required prompt repairs, and we therefore made them without delay. Caideieao do Inferno. On the 13th and 14th we passed the Caldeirao do Inferno, but not without one of the cargo canoes running great danger of being dashed to pieces on the rocks. We found the Caripuna Indians below the rapid. We met them on the passage up, and, aside from this tribe, yet another of the same number more or less. All showed themselves satisfied to see us again, and we acquired the firm conviction that to catechise among them would be the easiest thing in the world. MOEEINHOS. On the 16th we passed the mouth of the Jassiparana, 80 metres wide, arriving at and descending the same afternoon the rapid of Morrinhos. Theotomto. The following day we arrived at Theotonio after having passed with ease the little currents above them. The transportation of the loads am the dragging of the canoes was effected in the same way as the ascent, and the 1 8th of November we were able finally to leave the great beach below the fall. Macacos Sas ANTOino. Neither the passage of the current of Macacos, nor the rapid of San Antonio offered the least difficulty, from the fact that the river had already risen considerably, it being four metres above low water. The waters were turbid, and we suppose that it was the daily rise of this water which changed the condition of our health. 27 Tlie rainy season of the year was entering with all its force, and it is certain that with any further delay on the Mamore or Guapor6 it would have been impossible for us to finish the exploration of the Madeira. Having concluded in this manner the expedition entrusted to us, we improved a part of the night below San Antonio to shorten our voyage, and only thus were we able to arrive the 2l8t of November, at Crato, the first point where we found any supplies. We found, at this point, a Bolivian merchant, who having started some days before us, had suffered great delays by the sickness and death of a companion, he himself being so debilitated by fevers that he was in no condition to continue his voyage without recuper- ating himself. We had the pleasure of finding letters and journals in the hands of the commander of the detachment, which through the attention of the worthy Colonel Leonardo Ferreira Marques, then Vice- President of the Province of Amazonas, were occasionally sent to Crato, Before our departure we left in charge of the commander of the detachment, one of the uhdn (canoes) to forward on the first occasion to Senor Cardozo, to whom it belonged. Having passed the Manioor6, we arrived the 25th at the site of Sr. J. Araus, where we left one of our embarkations, and part of our crew, continuing the voyage with three canoes. At the town of Muras, in Sapucaia-oroca, we made a measure- ment of the cubic volume of the waters of the Madeira, as much to have a comparison with the results of the anterior measurements as for a calculation of the increase in the lower course. The following night we passed the town of Borba, and seeing the following day some banks of sand we concluded that the Amazon was still comparatively low. In effect, we afterwards ascertained that the Amazon was only two metres above the level of low water. On the afternoon of the 30th of November we finally arrived at .. Serpa, where we delivered our canoes to Major Damaso de Souza Barriga, giving immediately official notice of this to the president of the province. We afterwards went to Manaos, where we had to 23 deposit in the arsenal some arms and other articles. There we had occasion to compliment the worthy president of the province, who perfectly understands that interesting part of the empire. We arrived on the 14th of December at Para, and on the 4th of January at Eio de Janeiro, after an absence of 14 months, and found that false news had reached there relative to the fate of the expedition. KnaUy, we have great pleasure in recognising here the perfect application and zeal, of which our assistant Sr. Jose Manoel da Silva, more than once gave ample proofs, not only in the voyage and during the exploration, but also when the work of the office, the calculations, the designs of maps and profiles were required. C— IDEAS UPON THE GEOLOGICAL FOUNDATION AND CLIMATE OE THE LANDS TEAVEESED. With reference to the geologic studies and observations of the immense basin of the Amazon, they are as yet entirely insufficient to enable me in forming an exact idea upon the geologic formation of an area of such immense extent. There exist some data which tend to prove that the beds of gritstone, and principally the calcare- ous, which is found in different places (Eiver Maues), belong to the Silurian and Devonian formation. In the calcareous one of Maues, the following fossils are found : — Productus antiquatus, Spirifer trigonalis, Terebratula porrecta, Orthis orbicularis, and others, all characteristic of the Silurian and Devonian formations. The ferruginous conglomerate which is found on the surface of the earth is only covered with a bed of clay of from five to six metres of thickness, is a conglomerate of gritstone, little pieces of ■dolerite cemented with oxide of iron, full of openings and cavities, which give it the appearance of a sponge or scoria. 29 Its beds are generally horizontal, and arc from four to five metres thick. In the inferior beds the seams are smaller, at some points disappearing entirely, and forming then a more homogeneous mass of red gritstone, very argillaceous. The extension over which this formation, is found is enormous. We saw it at Manaos and on the margins of the Rio Negro, and afterwards along the whole length of the Lower Madeira, perforated and in part destroyed by the rapids, subsequ.ently in the Upper Madeira, the GuaporS and the Mamore, extending in only this direction more than 12 deg. of latitude. In the lower Madeira there is, at the place called Matucare, a bank of ferruginous conglomerate, which traverses the whole width of the river. It gives origin to the only current of any importance in this river, in which, notwithstanding, there exists a good channel for navigation. Examining with some attention the formation of this interesting point, it is seen that the pedra-canga (ferruginous conglomerate) has more resistance than the underlying beds of argillaceous gritstone. The latter crumbles by the action of the- water, the upper beds becoming in this way undermined. These last, from time to time, then break and fall in large pieces, which disappear at the bottom of the river. In the course of ages rapids- and currents disappear in this manner, and the inclination of the- river becomes more regular. On the river margins, at three distinct points below the Matucare, may be seen the remains of rock banka which have been destroyed in this manner. The waters, coming from the Cordillera, little by Uttle cut their course through the beds of clay deposited in the vast basin of the' Amazon, in aU probability, by a similar erosion. In the mean- time this basin was raised above the Silurian seas, the ice con- tributing in great part to produce a more powerful and efficacious action. The occasional unequal resistance of the margins causes the course of the waters to become serpentine, abandoning the old course and creating new ones.. It also forms banks of sand on the convex and gnaws the concave margin, until a great flood nearly perforates the isthmus formed by the serpentine — a work which 30 continues, a true perpetnum mobile even to-day, its effects being visible at eacb step. The lakes found on both banks of the Amazon, Solimoes, Madeira, etc., and which in Bolivia are called Madres, have no other origin. They generally mark the course which the river has followed in former times, and which the floods are not yet able to fill up with detritus, sand and mud which they deposit. These continuous changes of duration in the course of the rivers in alluvial soil will not stop until the banks are fixed by art, although among the rapids, on solid rocky ground, they are less perceptible, but still they do not fail to exist. The considerations we have stated are made, principally, for the purpose of correcting erroneous ideas with respect to the actual state of the aflSuents of the Amazon which exist even among pro- fessionals. We still state that the change of course of all the rivers in alluvial soil being general, neither the bed of one or the other among them can be considered still in the process of forma- tion. The direction of the general elevation of the lands south of the Amazon, so to speak, the first line commencing at the Serra-Geral, between the Paraguay and the southern afiiuents of the Amazon, runs in a north-east direction from the first rapid of the Madeira, passing more or less towards the first in the Tapajoz, Xingii and Tooantins. To the west of the Madeira it curves more to the west and south, so much so that the Purus nearly to its head waters has no rapid whatever. In conformity with this the lands on the left bank of the Madeira are less mountainous than those of the right bank, where the rami- fications of the Serra-Geral (mount of the Parecis) reaches to the margin of the river in different places. With reference to the mineral wealth of the territory traversed, we must cite gold as the principal. It is undoubtedly found in the white quartz veins which are met with in many places among the rocks of the rapids ; and what is notorious from the earliest times of the Conquest, it has been discovered among the head waters of the various branches of the right bank of the Amazon — among others 31 tte Upper GuaporS. In modern times the mining of gold in this region has much iliminished, principally on account of intermittent fevers, which appear to he the inseparable companions of miners. In Bolivia we learned that in the serra of the Guarajus, on the left bank of the Gnapor^, near the abandoned mission of San Simon, there are found veins of auriferous quartz of great richness, which with regular mining would yield great returns, and which have as yet only been explored by mine hunters without capital. Before describing the climate of these regions, it becomes neces- sary to throw light upon the terms igap6, va/rgem and terra firma, which are found in the mouths of the inhabitants of the Amazon, and which they employ at every instant. The iga^d is the most modern alluvium of the convex margins, whose elevation as yet is not more than four or five metres above low-water, and consequently at medium floods it commences to be inundated. The character of its vegetation is well marked, producing, aside from capim, called cmiarana, in the banks, and some low trees of white and soft wood, the embai,ha (cecropia) and the teringa (ficus elastica). The second, the vwrgem, includes the lands whose elevation is between medium water and floods, or, therefore, which are only inundated but a short time during the year. Its characteristic form consists in the different pahn trees, principally the muru- murii, uru-cury, etc., the mulatto wood, the paoova-sororoca (Urania), the cacao, etc. The culture of the sugar-cane is appropriate for the high vargem. The third grade, the terra-firma, are the remains of the ancient bottom of the basin of the Amazon, in which the rivers have formed their courses. It, therefore, may have very different altitudes, but the class of land, a hard clay, of red colour, is always the same. It is only on terra-firma that the good classes of wood are found. Among the characteristic trees we wiU only cite the gigantic chest- nut (Bertholetis excelse). With respect to the medium temperature of the region of the rapids, we only have the data of the months of June and October, 32 wliich are not sufficient for a calculation of an annual medium. It appears probable, however, that an isothermal of 20° E. may be that of the lower rapids. The barometrical obsei-vations, which we principally made for our knowledge, to furnish us the elevation above the level of the sea, follow hereafter, along with the tempe- ratures of the above months. The principal direction of the wind is from south-west to north- east. The first, to which the Cordillera gives birth was that which brought the rain of the months of September, October and November, while that from the other direction was dry. Despite its being impossible for us to make direct observations for the calculation of the cubic volume of rain which falls every year, we have by the floods, combining the cubic volume of their waters with the superficial area of the tributary lands, at least a comparative scale fur the calculation of the rain which falls upon a given amount of tributary surface, less the loss by infiltration and evaporation. The result of the calculation is that the rivers Madeira, Beni, Mamore, and Guapore, give a drainage of 1.03 cubic metres of water for each square league of superficial surface. The rainy season generally conunences on the Madeira at the end of October and finishes in March. For the medium velocity of the waters, it may be calculated that the wave of the first flood requires from 20 to 21 days to pass the distance from Exaltacion on tho Mamore to the mouth of the Madeira. The waters of the Mamore and Beni begin to swell a little before reaching the Guapore, this difference proceeding from the different climatic and hypsometric conri''-'iT. r^f ti^g regions in which are found the principal head waf ®^® ^'^ "^ With respect to the influence of climate upon tlF ^.anitary con^- dltion of the inhabitants and upon travellers, it TJecomes jis to note that in the dry season intermittent fevers are extremely rare. They commence to appear with the first wave of''the flood, becoming then the real scourge of those regions. Leaving to professional men to clear and explain the following contradictions, we cite only : — 1st. That the intermittent fevers are severer in the region of the rapids than above or below them, where there are still more fens. 33 2nd. That in the prairies of Bolivia, where, after the floods, there is much stagnant water, -which is drank without much precaution, the fevers are comparatively rare. It is certain that aside from the quality of potable water, there is yet another factor — the force and direction of the winds — not less important than the first ; so much so, that some of the houses of the rubber collectors, in unhealthy spots, become healthier, to some extent, after the forests have been cut down in a certain direction. D.— RESULTS OF HTDEOGEAPHIC MEASUEEMENTS. I. EeSTJLTS of ASTBONOMICAI ObSEBVATIONS. Lat. S Long. W. of Kio. Names of Places. On the Lower Madeira — Murassutuba Isle of Baetas Espiritu Santo Crato 12 kil. above Abelhas Domingos Leigue, rubber gatherer Upper Madeira — San Antonio Theotonio Morrinhos Caldeirao Girao Pederneira Paredao Araras Eibeirao Mouth of Beni Guaj ar a-Merim 3 5« 37/ 37« 6° 18' 28" 7 6° 43' 20" 5 70 31-. 3" 4 8° 15' 33" 1 8° 36' 4" 8° 49' 8° 62' 90 1' 9» 16' 9° 20' 90 32' 9» 36' 90 55' 10« 12' 10° 20'. 10° 44' 2" 6 41" 6 45" 3 48" 7 45" 7 81* 3 37" 7 5" 8 52" 1 0" 32" 8 21° 29' 21" 30' 21°. 36' 21" 52' 21" 54'- 22° 20' 22° 13' 22° 15' 22° 8' 22° 12' 22" 3' 57' 30" 14" 22" 20" 4" 20" 30" 20" 42" 34 n. Distances between the diffebent points of the Couese, MEASUEED WITH THE MlCEOMETEE. Names of Places. Distances in Metres. 1. Islands of Cavallo-Marinlio to the rapid of Guapore-Merim (N. 1— 13) ... ... 21,239.00 2. From Guapore-Merim to Guajara-Guassu(l 3— 21) 6,842.00 3. From Guajara-Guassu to Island (N. 30) ... 15,379.00 4. From point of Island N. 30 to beginning of the rapid of Bananeiras (N. 30—42) ... ... 13,153.00 5. From point of N.42 — 53 to the principal fall of Bananeiras ... ... ... 494.75 6. From poiat N. 53 to the beginning of the Cachoeira of Pao-Grande, 162 ... ... ... 8,266.10 7. From point N. 65—71 to the end of Pao-Grande 5,040.70 9. FrompointN. 71 — 87 tothe mouthof theEioBeni 9,408.00 10. Frompouitof87 — 102 totherapidof Misericordia 17,614.00 11. From point N. 102 — 106 to the beginning of Eibeirao ... . ... .., ... 4,120.00 12. From pointN.106-116 tothe currentofPericLiiitos 16,230.00 13. From point N. 116—124 to the rapid of Araras 15,667.00 14. From poiat N. 124 — 153 to the mouth of the river A-buna ... ... ... 44,942.00 15. From point N. 153 — 161 to the rapid of Peder- neii-a ... ... ... ... 13,300.00 16. From point N. 161 — 177 to the rapid ParedSo... 23,300.00 17. From point 177 — 197 to the current of Tres- Irmaos ... ... ... .., 30,700.00 18. From point N. 197—222 to the fall of Girao ... 37,600.00 19. From point N. 222—235 to the rapid of Calderao do Inferno... ... ... ... 10,330.00 20. From point N. 235—261 to the Malacca of the Caripunas... ... ... ... 28,700.00 21. From point N. 261 — 269 from the 21ahcca of the Caripunas to the point of island ... ... 9,400.00 22 From point N. 269 — 282, fi-om the point of island to the rapid of Morrinhos ... ... 16 005.00 35 23. From point N. 282—300, from Morrinhos to the fall of Theotonio 24. From point N. 300—314, from Theotonio to San Antonio 25. From point 314 — 318, end of micrometrical measurements The total length of the course of the river in the part filled with rapids between Guajara-Merim and San Antonio is therefore or 70.19 leagues of 18 to the degree. Adding to this yet the distance from the islands of Cavallo-Marinho to Guajara, about and that from San Antonio to the end We have as the total length of miorometric measure- ments or 63.18 leagues. 26. The length of the course of the Madeira, between San Antonio and its mouth is approximately . . . 27. The length of the course of the Madeira, between Guajara-Merim and the mouth of the Mamore . . . 28. The length of the course of the MamorS from its mouth to the town of Exaltaoion ... 29. Length of the course of the Mamore from Ex- altacion to Trinidad ... (Summing up, therefore, all these distances, it is seen that the expedition traversed in canoes, a distance of 749.2 leagues, going and coming, upon the rivers Madeira and Mamore.) Some distances, which may be of some use when the commerce of the Madeira and Bolivia is under- taken, are as follow : — * (?) 369,246.00. fNoTB BY TEANSLiTOE.— Evidently a mistake. The 70.19 leagues above represent less metre) than the 63.18 here. MMres. 26,260.00 10,600.00 5,600.00 *363,846.00 21,239.00 6,600.00 t390,685.00 Leagues. 174 32 40.5 58.5 36 Leaguis. 30. The length of the Mamor6 from Trinidad to Vinchuta ... ... ... ... 57-0 31. The distance from Trinidad to Sucre, capital of EoHvia ... ... ... ... 135-0 32. Distance from Sucre to Cobija, the only Bolivian port on the Pacific ... ... ... 2200 33. Distance from Trinidad to Santa Cruz ... 94-0 m. — EESTJIiTS OF THE HtpSOMETEIC ObsEBVATIONS. The heights of the level of the low-water above the level of the sea at the different points, are as foUow : — Elev. in Name of Place. Mfetrea. Town of Serpa in the Amazonas ... 18.00 Mouth of the Madeira ... 21.00 Man icor6, on the Madeira 28.00 Baetas, ,, 40.00 Tres-Casas, ,, 50.00 Isle of Salamao, ,, 53.00 Domingos Leigue, on the Madeira 54.00 Barra do Jamary 56.80 Eapid of San Antonio, lower part 61.60 Fall of Theotonio 83.40 Eapid of Morrinhos ,, 87.70 Eapid of Caldeirao do Inferno, lower part . 92.80 FallofGirao „ 102.00 Guajara-Merim, lower part, end of the rapids 144.60 Mouth of the Mamor6 ,, 150.40 Town of Exaltaeion, on the Mamor6 , 152.20 The vertical fall of the rapids together with the length of the same is found in the following table ; water at medium height : Name of Eapid. 1. Guajara-Merim 2. Guajara-Guassu Height. Metres. Length. Metres. 1.2 1,500 1.7 450 87 -i 3. Upper part >, Central part y Fall of the Bananeiras Lower part ) 4. Pao-Grande ... 5. Lages 6. Madeira 7. Misericordia . . . f Principal fall 1st current below fall 8. g 2nd „ 3rd „ , 4tli „ 9. Periquitoa ... 10. Araraa Araras, current below it as far as tbe river Abuna . . . 11. Pederneira ... Current below 12. Paredao 1st current below 2nd 3rd 13. Tres-Irmaos . . . „ Current below 14. Girao, principal fall ... „ Current below . . . 15. Caldeirao do Inferno . . 1st current below 2nd „ „ 3rd „ „ 4tli „ Sib ,;. Metres. Metres. J- 1.2 400 ■<. 6.0 500 1 1.5 1,500 2.0 400 2.5 750 2.5 900 0.6 100 4.1 400 1.5 275 2.7 1,000 0.9 250 1.5 900 0.8 300 1.4 700 0.5 250 1.1 250 0.9 350 1.7 550 1.5 750 1.2 700 0.5 250 0.6 150 0.3 70 0.5 150 0.7 200 8.0 700 0.6 200 0.6 200 2.2 400 1.9 1,170 0.7 250 0.4 150 0.5 300 0.3 120 Metros. 1. 1 450 0. 3 120 0. 4 100 0. 6 250 0. 3 60 0. 7 150 7. 5 300 0. 3 300 0.45 150 12.0 300 69. 6 20,169* 38 16. Mornnhos ... ,,, 1 st current below 2nd „ „ 3rd „ „ 4tli ,, . „. 5th „ „ just above Theotonio 17. Fall of TLeotonio Current below it ,, „ (Macacos) 18. San Antonio Total fall and length of rapids ... The faU existing in the distances between the rapids from San Antonio to Guajura-Merim is found by deducting the height of the rapids from the total difference of level between the same points, being, 83m — 69m, 60=13m.40. IV. — -Width of the river, depth, incline, and volume op the WATERS. The first three are the factors for the calculation of the cubic volume of the water which a river carries in a certain space of time, and it being possible, from the plan as well as from the levels presented to deduce these data for any point of the course, we only cite the following inclines, etc. Inclines. 1. The Mamore between Exaltacion and its mouth at the Madeira ... ... ... 1 32,104 2. Madeira from mouth of Mamore to Guajara-Merim 1 30 000 •?. General incline of the Madeira from Guajara to San Antonio ... ... ... ... 1 5^303 4. Madeira from San Antonio to its mouth ... 1 26 490 * Note by Tiiak3latoii.— Ought to he 19,665in. 39 Depth of water (at the time of low-water) : 1. Maximum, depth of the Mamore at its mouth... 2. Minimum depth of the Mamore helow Exaltaoion, caused by a reef of ferruginous conglomerate, taken in a straight line 3. Maximum depth of the Madeira between the mouth of the Mamore and Guajara ... 4. Minimum depth of the Madeira at the same place taken in a direct line 5. Depth of Beni at mouth... 6. Maximum depth between the rapids, immediately above Theotonio ... 7. Maximum depth of the lower Madeira (near Sopucaia-oroca) 8. Minimum depth on the line of pego, at Uroa 1. Mamore at mouth, low water ,, ,, high water 2. Q-uapore at mouth, low water „ „ high water 3. Madeira, medium width above rapids 4. Madeira, among rapids, minimum ... ,j maximum... 5. Lower Madeira (Sapuoaia-oroca) ,.. 6. Beni ... Metres. 10 0.75 15 1. 4 15. 37. 4 36. 8 1. 3 295 475 500 700 435 350 2,000 730 1,000 Elevation oi" the banks, difference oe level between high AND LOW WATER, CUBIC VOLUMES OF THE SAME IN THE MaMOE^, GuAPOE^, Beni and the Madeira. At Exaltaoion we found the elevation of the prairies near the banks 1 3m. above low water, this elevation being the same as that attained by the floods. At the mouth of the Mamore, however, this proportion is different, the banks having an average elevation of eight metres above low water, while the floods rise to nine metres, inundating the prairies in consequence. 40 Tte same difference between low water and floods is noted m tte Guapore and Madeira, at least as far as the first rapid of Guajara-Merim where the general declivity suddenly changes. We found the margins of the Beni near its mouth to have an elevation of six metres above low- water, there appearing above the left bank some hills entirely covered with dense forests. In the part containing the rapids, the elevation of the banks is very different. They are generally low immediately above the rapids, where also the difference between low water and floods is the least. In these places at times, the margins are not elevated more that 2m. 50 above low water, the same taking place with reference to floods. In the lower Madeira the normal elevation of the margins is seven metres above low water, this elevation being little inferior to floods. In some places, however, as for example in Sapucaia-oroca this difference rises to 12m. the right bank with a base of ferruginous conglomerate, being 13m. while the opposite margin is only 10m. CuBio Volume of thb Waters of the -Madeira and its Afflu- ents AT different Seasons of the Yeab caxghlated in Cubic Metres and per Second : — Kiver. Low Water. Medii;m Water. Floods. Observations. M. c. M. C. M. c. Guapore at its mouth .663 1.879 5 . 120 Measurement made at low water. Mamore at its mouth .835 2 . 530 7 .024 Measurement made 2m. 5c. above low Madeira hetween mouth of water. Mamore and Guajara . . 1.498 4.310 12 . 144 Beni at mouth 1 . 383 4.344 13 . 109 Measurement about 2 m. 5c. above low Lower Madeira at Sapucaia- water. oroca 4. US 14 . 642 39 . 106 Measurement about 5m. above low water 41 The tributary areas approximatively calculated for the ahovs rirers are as follow : — For the Guapore 9,715 square leagues. „ ., Mamor6 9,982 ,, ,, ,, Beni ... 7,068 ,, ,, ,, Lower Madeira... ... 11,016 ,, 37,781 The tributary service of the Beni is probably greater than indi- cated above. With the aid of the new and complete map of the Empire now being made, this area can be obtained with greater exactitude. The cubic volume of the waters of the Beni being equal to those of the Mamore and Guapore united proves the Beni to be the true main source of the 'Madeira. "With yespect to the waters of the Mamore and Guapore, it may appear singular that their cubic volumes do not preserve the same proportion of tributary surface, taking note, however, that the head- waters of the Mamore are found in the upper Cordillera while those of the Guapore come from inconsiderable elevations of the Serra-Geral, this apparent contradiction is solved. E.— PSOJECTS FOR THE IMPE0VEMENT8 OF THE LAND TRANSIT AS "WELL AS OF THE EIVEE EOUTE, THAT IS THE CONSTEUCTION OF A EOAD, "WITH APPEOXI- MATIVE CALCULATIONS FOE EACH ONE. For the past five or six years there has existed on the Madeira a small traffic by canoes between the town of Serpa in the Amazonas and the old Missions of the Mamore. The influence of the same has extended on the one hand to the city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, while on the other it has become a commerce of the city' of Para which furnishes the imported goods receiving those which come from Bolivia. The number of canoes which annually descend from Bohvia being from fifty to sixty, with a medium freight of 3.50 arrohas each 42 (6 J net tons each) tte total weight of goods transported becomes about 700 tons. The part of the river Madeira not only below San Antonio, but that above Gruajara, and the Mamore as far as Trinidad, are perfectly navigable, the r'ver admitting in that part of its course steamers of sufficient draft. The minimum depth of water in the dry season is 1 m. 80 in the portion of the river below San Antonio, it being one metre in the part above the rapids. * In no part does the velocity of the water during floods exceed 1 m. 50 per second, or three miles per hour. There are but 70'67 leagues between San Antonio and Guajara well filled with rapids, among which are found insuperable impedi- ments to steamers, obliging even the actual canoe traffic to make frequent landings and transits by land. To diminish the dangers, the detentions and fatigues of the actual navigation, and to develope the commerce, which hardly born, already threatens to perish for want of an easier method of communication, three plans oifer themselves : — 1st. The construction of iiLcHned planes, by which the vessels may overcome the heavy inclines. 2nd. The opening of a canal on the right bant. 3rd. The construction of a railway. 1st. On the inclined planes or martonas the vessels with their loads are placed upon an iron carriage running on rails^ which runs under the water to a necessary depth. This carriage, with the boat, is raised by means of a winch and brass cable to the height of the platform (more or less 15m. above low water), from which it again descends to the water, and leaves the carriage to continue its voyage — having in this manner overcome the rapid. Such works were constructed some time ago in Morris, of the United States, and in Eastern Prussia, where they do excellent service. Conjointly with the plans and levels of the Madeira we will present an outline of the mechanism of this construction. stated. • Note by Tkanslatoe. — I believe both these depths are greatly under- d, if I mar judge from soundings made in person. 43 2nd. TkG opening of a canal for navigation on tlie right bank for a length of fifty leagues, more or less practicable for small screw towboats, finds in the strong general slope of this part of the river a considerable difficulty. Accordingly, the general declivity being, as indicated by the levels 1 : 5265, it becomes indispensable to construct locks, for the velocity of the floods with the above elope would give a volume that might impede navigation, the preservation of the canal becoming at the same time very difficult. Taking 3m. 50 as the maximum height overcome by a lock, and the total fall from San Antonio to Guajara, equal to 83m., it is easily found that the number of locks required is 83 -r 3.50 = 24. The width of the canal could not be less than 20m., and the • depth of water Im. 80 = 2m. 3rd. The construction of a railway on the right bank, whose line would be approximately 50 leagues in length. This line would not be straight between San Antonio and Gua- jara on account of the profile of a track in this direction being, per force, very defective and entirely improper for a wheel road on account of the ramifications of the Serra-Geral, which extends itself to the right bank of the river. Notwithstanding, it would not be necessary to follow at all points the curves of the river, it being possible to cut off different arcs among them. Another consideration, not less important, which prevents the tracing of a straight line, even though it might be possible, tech- nically speaking, is that the new line of communication should touch the bank of the Madeira opposite the mouth of the Beni, it being the rich lands on the margins of these rivers which wiU give some day an addition to the commerce of the Madeira. As, in the description of the voyage, we have already had occa- sion to state, we could neither obtain the necessary crew, nor had we the time required to open, not alone the hypothetical straight hne, but that near the right margin, and cutting off only the shorter curves by a definite tracing of the line. We add that the opening of a track in the entire length between San Antonio and Guajara, for the length of fifty leagues, with 44 plans, levels, definite location of the road or railway, would not require less than two years, although the trained staff was suffi- ciently numerous to work on different sections. The approximate calculations which follow may serve, however, as a base for the definite selection of one or the other- among the different projects presented. 1. APPEOXIMATE CaICTTLATION FOB THE CoNSTETJCTION OF INCLINED Planes at the diffebent points of the RnrEE. To overcome the rapids between San Antonio and Guajara 20 mortonat are required, with a total length of 2,160m., or in a round sum, 20 kilometres, this being the entire length of the rapids and currents to be overcome. A. The construction of 20 kilometres of iron track costs, in conformity with the detailed calcula- tion, adopting the rail of the Ahlburg system, for each kilometre, 32,500f000 650,000|000 B. The construction of the platform for the loca- tion of the windlass, two walls of 5m. high, 5m. width, and Im. 2 thickness, 1,200m. cubic at lOOfOOO for 20 platforms 12,000$000 C. The construction of jetty at the ends of the mortonas to the depth of two metres below the level of the water, 7m. wide, 2m. high, and 20m. long, for 40 jetty, 11,200m. cubic metres of stone to quarry and transport @ 6^000 ... 66,000^000 D. Construction of 24 iron cars to receive the vessels, the weight of each one ten tons, and the price of each ton 400$000 96,000$000 E. 24 windlasses of iron, of one ton each, at 400SOOO 9,600$000 F Base or pedestal of windlass, constructed of first class wood, for each mortona four joists, with a transverse section of Om. 1 6 and 6m. long, in all— 24 X 4 X 6 -576 metres, at 2|000 ... l,152$00t) 45 G. Brass cablps of a transverse section of 24 milli- mStres square, 200m. long (the slope being 1:12) gives for 2 4 mortonas 4,800m. of rope, Tveighing 15m., 36 at TOOSOOO H. Planking of the platform of a superfice of 25m. for each, mortona, or in all 600m., with planks of Om. 1 thickness, at If 500 per square metre I. Direction and inspection of works, construction oi ranches, utensils, &c. Total Or in round figures 10,752,000 9001000 50,0001000 884,4041000 900,000$000 n. — Appboximate Calculation fob the constbtjction op a Navigable Canal on the eight bank between Guajaea and San Antonio. Such a canal having to admit small tow-hoats designed for the Upper Madeira and Mamore, should be 20 m&tres wide at the bottom and Im. 5, to Im. 7 of depth of water. The difference of level between the terminal points being 83m. and 3m. 5, the fall overcome by one of the projected locks, it follows that the number of these should be 24. The opening of the canal, the length of which wOl be 50 leagues, and the construction of the looks wUl cost as follows ; — (a) Opening of the track and clearing of the forest for a width of 50m., 1,545,700 square fathoms, at 100 rs 154,6701000 (h) Earthworks : excavations for a width of 20m. deep, with taludes of 2 : 1, 1,483,200 cubic fathoms at 7$000 11,382,4008000 (c) Eock-cutting : approximate cubic fathoms, 7,416 at 20$000 1,483,200$000 (d) Consolidation of the taludes by means of pavement, staking, &c., approximating 154,500, at lOlOOO the running mStre ... 1,545,000$000 46 (e) Aqueducts (of 10m. width), approximately: 5 principal at 300,0001000 = 1,500,000$000 10 smaUer at 100,000$000 = 1,000,000$000 300 drains at 170$000= 50,000^000 (/) Twenty-four locks, in conformity with thede- tailed calculations which -we have presented in former reports, average 100,000$000 ... (g) Management of tlie work, trained staff : (1) Survey of line, ten engineers, two years at5,000S000 100,000»000 The same engineers for the ten years of con- struction 500,000$000 (2) Labour for opening the track : 100 persons at 24$000 per month, 24 months 57,O00S0OO Foremen, 20, at 60SOOO per month, for ten years ... Total Or in round sum . . . 144,O00SO00 2,550,000$000 2,400,000$000 801,000S000 20,316,1758000 21,000,0008000 HI. — Appeoximate Caictjlation foe the construction of a Eail- WAT on the eight MARGIN OF THE MaDEIEA, ALONG THE LINB OF THE EaPBDS, IN A TOTAL DISTANCE OF FIFTY LEAGUES. A kilometre of this road, adopting the Ailburg system, will cost : — (a.) Opening of track in virgin forests 30 m. ■wide, 1,000 m. long, 30,000 square metres at 10 rs 300$000 47 (J.) In such lands it will be necessary to remove for each corresponding metre, 5 cubic metres of earth; and in 1,000 m., 6,000 cubic metres or 500 cubic fathoms at 5f000 (c.) Average rock cutting per running m^tre, 9 m. 5 cubic, or 50 cubic fathoms in 1,000 running metres, at 2558000 ... (d.) Drains and small bridges in each kilometre, average ; — 1 wooden bridge .. 1,000S000 4 smaller 2,000$000 80 drains 500S000 (e.) Pavement between the rails and under the same j for each kUom^tre, 36 cubic fathoms atSOSOOO (/.) Eans:— Each running m^tre weighs 35 kilograms Or each kilometre... ... 70 tons. Traverses ... ... ... 6.6 ,, Total ... 76'6 at 150S000 (g.) Fastenings, 6,000 pieces, total weight 3 tons at300$000 (h.) Laying and fastening per running metre 3$000, or for 1,000 («.) Management surveys, etc. ... (A.) Tools, utensils, etc. ... 2,500$000 1,260«000 3,500g000 1,0808000 11,499$000 900S000 3,000$000 2,000^000 500^000 Total ... Or for total length ... In round figures 27,4498000 8,481,7418000 8,500,0008000 48 IV. —Appeoximate oalctjlation for the construction op a Macadamized eoad of a total width of six MilTKBS, with FIVE MijTHES OF PAVING TOE ONE KILOMiiTEE. («.) Opening of track 30 m. wide, in virgin forest, 1,000 m. long 300S000 (h.) Earth works, 700 cubic bragas at 5$000 ... 3,500S000 (c.) Eock cutting, 60 cubic braqas at 25$000 ... I,250f000 {d.) Opening vaUetas 500 rs. per running metre 500S000 (e.) Drains and bridges as above ... ... 3,500$000 (/.) Pavement 5 m. wide m. 3 thick, in 1,000 m. long, 150 cubic bra9as at 45S000 6, 750^000 (^.) Compressing the bed of the pavement ... 500$000 (h.) Tracing and measurement of waters ... 1,000!JS000 («.) Management 500^000 (^•.) Iron work, etc. SOOgOOO Total 18,300S000 Or for total distance 5,654,700$000 Or in round figures „ ... 5,700,000$000 Eecapitulation. Approximate cost of the construction of a new route of communica- tion between San Antonio and Guajara, on the Eiver Madeira is : — 1. Inclined planes 900,000S000 2. Canal and locks 21,000,000g000 3. Eailway, with cars drawn by animals ... 8,500,000$000 4. Macadamized road 5,700,000^000 And we stiU add that the cost of a road without being macadamized would be 3,090,000$000 49 F— STATISTICAL IDEAS UPON THE COMMEECE AND THE PE0DU0TI0N8 OE THE VALLEYS OE THE MADEIEA, M^MOEE, GUAPOEE, AND AEELUENTS. I. — Lo"WER Madeira. In the lack of official documents relative to the population of the lower Madeira, we cannot determine the number of inhabitants of this vast region except approximately. Let us suppose it, however, to be 5,000 to 6,000, including the Indians of the Mundurucii and Mura tribe, who, in a semi-civilized state are found in the old towns of Sapucaia-orooa, Manicore, Canuma, Mane, Crato, etc. The labour in which this population, so diminutive in proportion to the immense territory, occupies itself is only extractive ; that is it takes advantage, without further work, of the riches which nature has strewed over those regions with prodigal hands. In the first plat3e it is to be noted that the seringa, caoutchouc, or borracha is an important article of exportation. It is a resin of the_^cM« elastica, which abounds as well on the river margins as among the adjacent lakes.* The lands where it flourishes best belong to the formation of the igap6, which means the most recent alluvium, which in the season of the njedium high water of the rivers is inundated. It is in such places, in locations frequently unhealthy, that in innumerable huts, is prepared annually the enormous quantity of 40,000 arrdbas (321bs. to the arroba in Brazil,) of Seringa (india-rubber) exported from the province of Amazonas, of which more than half comes from the Madeira. Despite important discoveries of preservation by alum, and in a liquid state by Ammonia — even to-day the ancient routine is usually followed. The fruit of the Urucury and those of the Uauassii palms, whose smoke serves to solidify the milk, are, therefore, as indispensable for the rubber collector of the Madeira, for the making of rubber, as the milk itself. * Note by Translator. — The present annual export of this article from tlie Amazon Valley is about 350,000 arrobas, or 5,000 ^ross tons. 4 50 "We cannot fail to notice an interesting fact : — althongh. magnifi- cent rubber trees are found on dry lands in tbe ■vicinity of the rapids, no value can be realized from them as they give no milk, except in very small quantities. It appears, therefore, that the annual inundations of the igcip6 are necessary to produce the sap. In the second place, as an article of export, is found the Cacao, and the Castanha do Pard — Para nut — (fruit of the lertholetia excelsd) which is found at all those points where terra fir ma reaches the margin of the river. The cultivation of the Cacao, despite its being wild in the table- lands, has not the importance that it might have in view of the facilities for planting it. The cultivation of tobacco, formerly so important on the Madeira, has suffered a considerable diminution, the famed tobacco of Borba, being substituted for that of Maues.* The sad consequences of the pertinacity with which the popula- tion on the margins of the Madeira dedicate themselves to the gathering of the wild products, and principally rubber, is that true cultivation is found in a perfect state of abandonment. The most important aliments in those regions, such as Mandioca flour, salt fish, (pirarucu) are imported from different parts of the Amazonaa and even from Para. As much in consequence of the enormous freights as by the gains of speculators, they frequently attain fabulous prices. This happens in face of the well known fact that said products can be produced in the place itself. As a curiosity, we will state that the normal price of an alqueire (46 pounds) of mandioca flour from the town of Borba up, is $12,000 to ^14,000 (six to seven dollars gold). Proportionate prices exist for iron goods, cloths, and the other products of European manufacturing industry. Thus the poor rubber collector, despite his working, so to speak, in a mine of gold, has gained nothing at the end of the year. He leaves immense gains in the hands of the monopolists who purchase the rubber for infinitely small prices, paying not in money but in merchandise. The new Steam Navigation Company on the Madeira will soon commence its voyages as far as Crato and San-Antonio. The face 51 of commercial matters will then entirely change in aspect, reducing itself so rapidly to free competition, that it will be to the interests of the Company to dispense with the monopolists and regatSes. II. — ^IJppEB Madeira. As we have stated above, the rubber tree in the region of the rapids beyond San-Antonio, does not pay the work of the rubber collector at any season of the year for lack of milk. In consec[uence of this the attempt of some Bolivians, who descended with Indians from the department of the Beni, to the extensive rubber districts, found near the mouth of the river Jata, was entirely fl-ustrated. They were afterwards obliged to locate below San- Antonio, proving again that the region of the rapids cannot be molested by the Caripuna Indians. The commerce of these latter with the navigators of the Madeira is limited to the selling them some roots of mandioca and a little corn in exchange for iron implements. "We do not doubt, however, that these inoffensive and good- natured Indians, if properly instructed and accustomed to work, could make great gains from the extensive cacdo woods which in that region are found on both margins. They would thus create a beginning for exportation in places which now are entirely lost to commerce. III. — Mamoe]^. In the neighbouring prairies of the old Jesuit missions, not only on both margins of the Mamore, but also on the Itonama and Machupo, there exist at present some droves of horned cattle. They are, however, much reduced in number by speculators, who, autho- rised by the Bolivian Government, destroy on a grand scale, without any consideration whatever, a fountain of riches, which might be permanently established. With a little care on the part of BoHviaof these remains of old breeding, the immense prairies of the depart- ment of the Beni would have had a considerable increase. To-day there are drawn from them the loads of hides and tallow for the canoes which, from Trinidad and Exaltacion, descend the Madeira and Amazonas to Serpa. 52 To prove that the ■wealth in wild cattle in the prairies of the Bern has decreased at an accelerated pace, we alone state that ten years ago one might buy in Exaltacion, Santa- Anna, Trinidad, &c., a fat animal for 2S000, whUe to-day it costs from 12S000 to 14$000. (1$000 is 50 cents gold). Formerly nothing but the hide and taUow were made use of. The flesh was thrown to the birds of the fields. To-day the misery in some of the missions reaches such a point that the Indians eat a kiad of great minhoca {ver de terre), which they find in damp ground. Game, prinjipally deer, was formerly very abundant, even in the vicinity of the missions. In consequence of a systematic persecu- tion, without rest, on the part of the Indians, urged on by the buyers of skins, these animals are exterminated near the missions, and they are now found only in the most distant prairies. While the riches afforded by nature are in this manner destroyed almost without work, on the other hand, no progress is made in agriculture. On the contrary, so soon as the patriarchal system, which existed in the time of the Jesuits and the first decades after their expulsion, was abandoned, the Indians scarcely planted enough to sustain themselves. To-day the only articles of exportation for Santa-Cruz are cacao, gathered from the wild cacao fields of the Mamore, some tobacco and some fabrics of cotton (Macanas), which are manufactured yet on a small scale in some towns. The active example of the fathers, the pomp of the religious cere- monies, an ever severe justice, and an unequal tact in the art of understanding and guiding the Indian spirit, were the means em- ployed to give prosperity to the missions. When, however, the difficult task is confided, as it is to-day, to unskilful hands, and the infantile spirit of the Indian is placed in immediate- contact with the corruption of speculators, the consequences cannot be other than the saddest. The indigenous population of the Department of the Beni, dis- tributed in fifteen villages or missions, to-day does not exceed 30,000 souls, and diminishes from day to day in consequence of the physical and moral misery in which it is living. Perhaps the greatest impediment to progress in those regions is 53 Ae profound antipathy against tHe white race, whicli, in conse- quence of abuses and bad government, has unhappily been engrafted upon the Indian mind. Were it not for this, cotton, tobacco and sugar-cane would be cultivated. To-day nothing is done except on a small scale,, although the land and the climate are the most appropriate possible. The exploration and cultivation of the cacao trees also offer lucrative branches of agriculture. The introduction of spinning machines and improved appliances in place of the primitive instruments with which the Indians actu- ally work would be of immense advantage in view of the admirable works which they execute without them. Perhaps in this method, developing the natural gift possessed by this race for making all kinds of fabrics, this branch of industry would take great propor- tions. Thus the missions, to-day in a state of decadence, would acquire again that character for activity which they undoubtedly had in the time of the missionaries. Cascarilla, or quina, is an important article of exportation, which does not, however, truly belong to the Department of the Beni, but to the forests of the head waters of the Beni. In effect, the true Calysaya, the bark of which contains the greatest proportion of precious alkaloid; is found only upon the slopes of the high cordil- . leras at an elevation of from 1,000™- to 2,000™- above the level of the sea. Up to the present the cascarilla has been generally exported fcom La Paz through Tacna and Arica, on the Pacific. The Bolivian Government, the better to fiscalize and monopolise this important commerce, has established a species of bank or deposit of quina at the capital. Instead of carrying the bark on the backs of the bark- gatherers over the intransitable roads of the Cordilleras, some attempts on a large scale are being made to descend with it by the same water near which it maybe cut — that is, by the Beni and the Madeira to Para, The advantages of the second route over the first are clear : the transportation by water, avoiding at the same time the ascent of the mountains. However, the entirely unknown region of the middle and lower part of the Beni, and the savage tribes said to inhabit the banks of the rapids, cause the bark which up to the 54 present has been sent to Para to take a more compHcated road. It comes in canoes by the strong currents and the rapids of the Upper Beni to the mission of Reyes, and from there by land m ox- carts to the mission of Santa-Ana on the Mamore. Thence it is again embarked in canoes by the Mamore and Madeira to the Amazons and Para. With all these embarrassments, difficulties, and landings, the freight by this route is cheaper than that via the Pacific, as is seen from the following freights taken in Bolivia from trust-worthy persons : — Freight of a load (250 lbs.) of quina from the Benito Tacna ... ... ... 50 pesos. Preight of a load of quina from the Beni to Santa Ana on the Mamore ... ... 4 „ Beni to Santa Ana to Para ... ... 6 ,, Total ... ... 10 The above difference becomes more notable considering that, the destination of the bark being a European port, the freight from a port on the Pacific is greater than from one on the Atlantic. Beni Expoets. The amount of the actual exportation from the Department of the Beni by the Mamore and Madeira is sufficiently well calculated by the number and tonnage of the canoes which descend, as follows : — Fifty canoes of a tonnage of 300 to 400 arrobas average, loaded with hides and tallow, give a total of 20,000 arrobas exports. The imports by the same craft are, with reference to weight, equal to the exports. In the value, however, they are superior, consisting almost totally of the products of the manufacturing industry of Europe. The imports are valued at 30:000 f 000, whUe the exports are 18:000 $ 000. Nowadays there are few merchants who wish to risk their lives and fortunes in the passage of the rapids with an Indian crew. These at various times have given proofs of the hatred which they possess against the whites by assassinating the masters. There is, 55 therefore, no competition, and the prices of goods -which go by the Madeira retain the same prices as those via the Pacific. In Trinidad European fabrics via the Pacific route are found selling on a par with others by the Amazon and Madeira. This contradictory fact may be explained. The passage of the mountains is by bad roads, and the cost on the backs of animals is great in comparison to water eommunication ; but this latter is happily embarrassed by rapids. We will state, aside from this, that the Bolivian Government does not collect import duties by the ports of the Pacific* The difficulty also, which is general in every country, is found here, for innova- tions on the old routes create opposition, as it does in this case on the part of the muledrivers. In view of aU this, the actual commerce by the Madeira, which, as we have demonstrated, scarcely extends to Trinidad, and rarely to Santa-Oruz de la Sierra. So soon as a road past the rapids is made, it will assume proportions ten times greater, so that annually there would be exported 200,000 arrobas. It is indispensable how- ever that the Bolivian Government should then undertake the con- struction of a cart road from Viachuta to Cochabamba, and another from Trinidad or Ouatro Ojos to Santa-Cruz. Again resuming the principal points which may have influence upon the prosperity of a new route of communication by the Madeira, and which depend upon the Government of the EepubHc of Bolivia, we may say that it wiU be necessary :— 1st. To give new impulse to cultivation and industry in the depart- ment of the Beni. Cotton should be planted on a greater scale. Machines to clean and weave it should be introduced. The new line of Brazilian steamers on the lower Madeira will contribute much to this purpose by facilitating the importation of machinery, etc. ; also by diminishing the time over the canoe voyage, while the Indians employed as oarsmen to-day can devote themselves to agriculture. 2nd. New cattle estates should be created in the immense prairies, making use of the remainder of the wUd cattle for this purpose. • Note by Tbanslatoe.-TMs is an error. An import duty of 20 to 25 per ofint. ^„ tv,„ Jlino ^f ^^nAa is collected. The very small amount of goods taken up the Zii^nofareso^Ma ftesam^^^^^^^ as tho^ from the Pacific,giving. about 100 per cent profit to the very few daring traders who are willing to risk their lives in the passage of the faUs of the Madeira. 56 These in the days of the missionaries vera still found there, and the BrazUiau citizen, Antonio de Barros Cardozo, in his estates near Exaltacion, has demonstrated that they can very quickly be domes- ticated.* 3rd. Cause the course of the Beni to be studied and explored, with the idea of exporting cascariHa by that route. Thus, will be avoided, not only the passage of the Andes, but also the delays and landings which take place when, as to-day, it passes from the Beni to the Mamore. 4:th. Make an easier route from Ouatro-Ojos to Santa-Cruz, and another from Vinchuta to Oochabamba, then establishing a steam line on the Mamore. IV.— The Guapoe]!:. Although neither our instructions nor the advanced season of the year permitted us to ascend the Guapore from the mouth of the Mamore, we may, however, from trustworthy information, give assurance that the margins of the Guapore are almost depopulated. Even the ancient capital of Mato-Grosso, Vitla Bella, is in a com- plete state of decay, which is also the condition of the fort of the Prince da Beira, an admirable work in view of the enormous difficulties of transportation with which its buUders struggled at the date of its foundation. All these leave much to be desired. The studies of the hydrography of that region, which might be extended to the Jauru, might be the object of a new exploration. This, however, must be done at the lowest stage of water in the Guapore ; for the difficulties which it opposes to navigation probably result from a lack of water. Peices of some Goods Appeopbiate foe Expobtation fbom the Depaetment of the Beni. 1 arroba of cacao (32 pounds) 1 ,, coffee 1 ,, cotton in the seed 1 ,, ,, clean 2 pesosf. 2 „ 2 „ ■■■ 5 „ * Note by Tkanslatok. — He had one herd of 3,500 -when I was at Exaltacion in 1871. t Note bt Tkanslatok. — The Bolivian peso is worth about 3s. id., and contains 8 reals. 57 1 arroba of tobacco 1 ,, sugar 1 ,, mandioca flour 1 ,, castanhas ... 1 ,, dried beef ... 1 ,, tamarinds ... 1 ox-bide 2 ounces of urucu in paste 1,000 good cigars 1 pot of chicba (beer) 1 garrafa (bottle; of chestnut oil 1 arroba of meal 1 arroba of hogs' lard . . . 1 pound of butter 1 arroba of cheese 1 cow hide ... 1 tiger skin ... 1 hog skin (4 pounds) ... 1 arroba of tallow 1 ,, sheep's wool 1 yard of Macana 1 cut of cal9a (probably enough for trousers) of cotton cloth 1 ordinary cotton poncho 1 fine poncho ... ... ... 6 to 1 1 towel, with 12 napkins ... ... 13 4 arrobas of wheat flour in Santa Cruz (N.B. The same in Para is worth from 25 to 35$000; from S12-50 to »17-50.) 1 fat ox 1 cow 1 horse 1 beast of burden 1 sheep in Santa Cruz ... 3 to 4 pesos 2 }) 4 reals 4 11 H pesos 6 reals 6 1) 1 11 5 to 6 pesos 1 11 1 ?) 3 to 4 reals 12 11 3 11 H pesos 4 reals 2] pesos 6 reals 2 pesos i 11 2 tton 11 2 'J 2 2 to 3 10 8 45 to 100 100 n N.B.— One peso is 8 reals = 1S600=80 cents,, 3s. 4d. 58 Prices of some of the Imported Goods in the Department OF THE Beni. Worth 1$000 in Maues. 1 pound of guarana . . 3 pesos. 1 „ gunpowder.. l^to3 22|000 at Para. 1 quintal of steel . . 36 2g000 „ 1 „ sliot ..24to36 3$000 „ 1 arroba of Swedish iron 6 3*200 „ 1 „ of EngUshiron 3 ,, 1 ,, of salt .. 2 G.— APPEOXIMATE CALCULATION OF THE COST OF FEEIGHTING BY THE DIFFEEENT EOTJTES OF COMMUNICATION PEOJEOTED. It is of great interest for the empresarios of new lines of com- munication to know beforehand, evei though approximately, the advantages which may result from such enterprises. They wish to make comparisons to see if the results are, or are not, in proportion to the capital employed. "We undertake in the following to calculate the freights by the different routes. The indirect advantages, however, which result to the country from a new route of communi- cation, by the development of commerce and agriculture, by colonization and in a stragetic sense, may, in many cases, be greater than those which result from a direct lowering of freights. To calculate the freights by a new route, it is necessary to know "the weight of the merchandise transported in a given time over the route, taking into account the future increase of traflS.c in consequence ■of the greater facility for transportation. According to information which we were able to coUect ia Bolivia, in no case the weight of the imports via the valley of the Madeira, will exceed 10,000 tons yearly ; even though aU the indicated improvements were executed in the interior of the country, 59 sucli as the road to Ooohabamba, etc.* In the following calcula- tions, we wilL adopt the weight of 10^000 tons as a hase. This wiU represent the limit to which the traflB.c in this direction will reach in the immediate future. I. — Calculation of the rREiGHT foe Navigation in Canoes of 300 TO 350 AEEOBAS ETJEDEN (6 TONS, MOEE OE LESS,) AS AOTrALI/Y CAEEIED ON BETWEEN TrINIDAD AND SeBPA. ThIS, DESPITE THE LANDINGS AND OTHER DIFFICULTIES, AND ON THE HYPOTHESIS THAT THE TRAFFIC WILL ATTAIN 10,000 TONS PER YEAR. The time necessary for a round voyage from Bolivia to the Amazons is calculated in the following manner : — Average time ascending . . . . 110 days. ,, „ decending . . . . 40 ,, It being possible, therefore, to make two voyages by canoe in a year, 2 x 6 x 2 = 24 tons annually, and 417 canoes are necessary to transport the total 10,000 tons per year. The number of oarsmen, ten per canoe, wUl be 4,170 men; and each one costing 4$000 salary per month, and 9$000 per month for food, itfoUows that the salary and support of the total number of rowers per year will be : Ist. Salary of oarsmen per year 650:000$000 2nd. Interest of capital employed in canoes — 417 canoes at 300S000, 125S0OO at 10 °l„ 12:510 000 3rd. Kepairs on the same per year 12:510 000 4th. Eepairs and renewals of cables 8:000 000 Total 683:020 000 And the transportation per ton costs W^tnnr* = 68$302 * Note by Translatok.— It is to be regretted that the Messrs. Keller never penetrated Bolivia beyond Trinidad, of the Department of the Beni, where it is absolutely impossible to obtain a knowledge of the population, the resources and the requirements of the numerous towns and cities which lie within commercial reach of the Madeira river. The tonnage per annum which he estimates, on the completion of a road from the Mamore to Coohabamba, to take advantage to the full extent of the Amazon route, will serve only as a unit for the calculation of traffic. There are 60,000 tons of freight passing be- tween Pari and Manaos yearly, at this date, 1873. It represents the traffic of not more than 300,000 people. The trade of at least 2,000,000 of the inhabitants of BoliWa must, perforce, pass the rapids of the Madeira, as the cheapest possible outlet of the country. 60 It is to be observed that all the population of the province of Mojos would not be sufficient to furnish so large a contingent of oarsmen, and that, in consequence, commerce can never be carried to the point mentioned by the actual method of navigation. II. — Oalcuiation of Freights between ■ Teinidad and Seepa, on THE StTPPOSITION THAT THE PASSAGE OP THE EaPIDS IS EFFECTED BY MEANS OF INCLINED PlAJTES OE. MoETONAS, THE BoATS EM- PLOYED HAVING A BtTKDEN OF THIRTY TONS EACH. The ronnd voyage in this case would last 130 days on an average; that is 20 days less than now required. ■ Each craft being able to transport annually 2 x 60= 120 tons, it becomes necessary for the transportation of 10,000 tons, ^ ^sf^" = 90 vessels, with a crew of 90 X 25 =2,250 men. The freight is calculated in the following method : — 1. Interest on the capital for the construction of Jfori!o««w 900:000$000 at 10 "/o 90:0008000- 2. Annual repairs of Mortonas 20:000S000 3. Guards for them — 48 persons at 50$000 per month, makes per year 28:800S000 4. Interest on capital employed in vessels — 90 iron craft of 30 tons at 3:OOOSOOO = 270:000$000 at 10?/o 5. Repairs and renewals per year 6. Eepairs of cables per year Salary of crew — 2,250 persons at 13S000 per month (for nine months) ... Preservation of an alagem track in those points where in the time of floods it becomes necessary in a distance of 100 iUometres ... 27:000^000 27:0008000 10:0003000 263:250S000 10:000S000 Total The freight being for each ton *^,oAo = 47|600. ... 476:050S000 61 in. — CAIiOTJLATIOJSr OF FREIGHTS ©N THE StJPPOSITIOIT THAT A Navigable Canal be consteucted between San Antonio and grltajaea, euenished with locks to overcome the declivities, FOB, THE ENTIRE DI8TAITCE BETWEEN SeRPA AND TrDSTADAD, WITH Steamers as motive power. It is now known tliat the mininmm of freigM in fluvial naviga- tion is obtaiaed by tow-boats, with, a velocity inferior to that of steamers used for passengers. In the present case the calculation shows that a steamer with an engine of 50-horse power, drawing 0"' 70, towing a vessel of 100 tons burdens at the rate of nine mUes per hour (4™- 5 per second) is the most appropriate for the Upper Madeira and Mamorg, the water having a velocity of 1™- per second. The principal dimensions of such a steamer are as follow : — Total length ... ... ... ... 30"- Maximum width amidships ... ... 5™- Depth ... ... ... ... 2"'- Draft of water ... ... „ 0-"- 7 It should be constructed of iron, with a total weight, inclusive of machinery, of 80 tons. The weight of the launch, also of iron, for 100 tons of freight, would be 30 tons. Price of steamer ... ... 36:000<8000 ,, launch... ... ... 10:000S000 Transportation of both to the place. . . 5:000^000 Total ... ... 60:000$000 The medium velocity up and down of these craft is nine miles per hour. They can run 31.2 leagues in twelve hours; and the total distance from Trinidad to Serpa in 12.5 days. Counting, yet, a detention of fifteen minutes at each loci, and twenty-four hours' additional detention at twenty intermediate sta- tions, the necessary time for a round voyage would be 2 x 14 = 28 days. It is only in medium waters that the steamer would be able to run at night, on account of the danger for the boat, not only at low 62 water but at floods. During the latter, the river brings down a grea* number of truniks of trees, and therefore, we can only count on the days, adopting the. round voyage of twenty-eight days or a month as a basL's' of caiouiation. The weight that one of the above steamers can transport in a year is consequently 2 x 12 x 100 = 2,400 tons ; and four tug boats and four launches would be necessary for the transpoi-tation of 10,000 tons. The expenses of this transportation are calculated as foUows ; — (1.) Interest on capital employed for opening the canal, 21,000,000$000 at 10 per cent. (2.) Preservation of canal, including salaries of forty-eight loci-guards (3.) Interest of capital employed in vessels, steamers and launches... (4.) Bepairs of vessels (5.) Eenewal of vessels in ten years, per year . . . (6.) Salaries of six captains .. . (7.) „ engineers, at 1,500$000 (8.) Salaries of eight firemen, 600$000 (9.) Twenty sailors, 600$000... (10.) Oil, grease, &c. (11.) Management ... (12.) Combustibles — 2,500 achas (bundles) of wood for twelve hours for each steamer, con- sequently, for four steamers, and 365 days, 3,650,000 achas at 20rs. each ... Total... ... ... 2,538,2008000 2,100,000$000 250,000$000 20,0008000 20,000S000 20,000$000 12,000$000 9,000$000 4,800S000 12,000S000 5,000S000 10,0008000 73,0008000 Each ton will consequently cost, from Serpa to Trinidad* 'ff^^f§^''= 2538000. This result, with that of the above calculations, is that the expenses of opening a canal, and the establishing of steam- navigation, retain no proportion with the weight of goods transr ported, which is insufficient, even adopting the greatest possible increase of traflac as a base. In comparison, we will see what is the resulting freight for steam 63 navigation between. Serpa and San Antonio, and between Guajard and Trinidad. The distances and other circumstances between these points being more or less equal, it is sufficient to calculate it for the distance between Guajara and Trinidad. This distance is approximately 142 leagues. The steamers can run it in 4-5 days, or nine days for the rouhd voyage. The nimiber of voyages per year would therefore be thirty-six, and a vessel could be able to transport the weight of 2x100x36 = 7,200 tons. For the transportation of 10,000 tons two steamers will be re- quired, and the freights are calculated as follows : — (1.) Interest on capital employed in two tug-boats and two launches, 10 per cent ... ... 10,000S0()0 (2.) Renewal of these in ten years, per year ... 10,0008000 (3.) Eepairs of same per year ... ... l0,000jS00O (4.) Salaries of three Commanders, at 2, OOOSOOO 6,000$000 (5.) Salaries of three Engineers, at l,500jS000 ... 4,500$000 (6.) Salaries of six Firemen at 600$000 ... 3,600$000 (7.) Ten SaUors at 600S000 ... ... ... 6,000$000 (8.) OU, grease, &c. ... ... ... 2,500*000 (9.) Management ... ... 5,000$0CO (10.) Combustibles, as in the above calculation ... 36,500|000 Total ... ... 94,100*000 WHch gives pertonf^;^=9$410 for the freight between Guajara and Trinidad. Two steamers being also sufficient for the service between Serpa and San Antonio ; the freight between these last two points wiU be the same as that calculated above. IY,_Feeightiiestotingfeom THE Navigation op Craft op Thirty Tons btjeden, overcoming the Eapids bt means op Mortonas, BETWEEN San Antonio and Guajara. One launch under the above conditions, manned by 25 oarsmen, would pass the total distance from San Antonio to Guajara in five days, without counting the delay of the rapids and currents. The 64 passage of eaci. rapid by means of a mortona, occupying one hour, there will be required two days for this service. In consequence, the round voyage would be 14 days, and two voyages per month might be made from San Antonio to Guajara and vice-versa. The weight annually transported by a launch would consequently be 1,440 tons, and to effect the transportation of 10,000 tons seven , launches would be necessary. The total crew would be 175 men, and the freight is calculated as follows : — (1.) Interest on capital employed in the construction of the inclined planes, 10 per cent. . . . 90,000^000 (2.) Preservation of the same per year ... ... 9,000g000 (3.) Renewal of rails for the mechanical planes each 25 years, per year ... ... ... 20,000S000 (4.) Interest on capital employed in vessels, 21,000^000 —10 per cent. ... ... ... 2,100S000 (5.) Eepairs of vessels, per year ... ... 2,100^000 (6. ) Eenewal of same, per year ... ... 2,100$000 (7.) Eenewal of cables, per year ... ... 2,100$000 (8.) Payment of 175 oarsmen at 20S000 per month ,. 42,000$000 (9.) Administration — (a.) Director ... 2,000|000 (h.) Three Assistants 3,0009:000 (ft) Sis Clerks ... 3,OOOS00O 8,000S000 Total ... ... 177,400$000 The freight, in consequence, costing for each ton ^^u.ir^ — 17S740 between San Antonio and Guajara. Employing the tow-boats, as above calculated, for the lower and upper Madeira and in the Mamore, the cost of freighting per ton becomes 18S820 + 17$740 = 36$560 from Serpa to Trinidad. V. — Caictjlation oe Peeight by a Eailwat between San Antonio Ain) Gttajaea. The expenses of the construction of the track, are in conformity 65 with the estimates above, of 8,500,000$000. The data for the cal- culation of freights are as foUo-w : — (1.) Interest on capital employed in the construction, 10 per cent. ... ... ... 850,000|000 (2.) Maintaining road, 100 men at 13$000 per month for the term of one year ... ... 15,600|000 (3.) Eenewal of raUs, the new system projected, requiring only l/5th part of the total weight to be substituted in 25 years — per year ... 27,000$000 892,6008000 (4.) The calculation of the number of cars required is as follows : — Annual transportation, 10,000 tons, or 33-3 tons per day. One car loaded with six tons, drawn by two animals, with a medium velocity of three miles per hour, and working seven hours per day on the round voyage, will carry 12 tons ... ... ... 892,600|000 It will require 50 of these cars to carry annually 10,000 tons. Each car wUl cost 3,000$000, and the capital employed in the 50 ears, 150,0008000. Interest on this capital at 10 per cent. ... 15,000$000 (5.) Renewal of cars for 20 years, per year ... 7,500|000 (6.) Eepairs of same, per year ... ... 7,500$000 (7.) Grease, etc., per year... ... ... 500|000 (8.) 100 draught animals, atl50$000 each, 15,000^000 at 10 per cent. ... -. ... 1,500$000 (9.) Eenewal and preservation of animals ... I,500g000 (10.) Care and forage, 15$000 per month ... 18,OOOSO0O (11.) Salaries of 50 carmen, at 20$000 per month ... 12,000$000 (12.) Ten stations, or open ranchos, at 500$000 each, at 10 per cent. ... ... ... 5O0SO00 (13.) Administration : 1 Director and 3 assistants ... 7,0008000 Total ... ... 963,6008000 And the freight per ton VV^tirV =^ 968000. 5 66 The total freight from Trinidad to Serpa, per ton, is calculated therefore in the following manner : — 1. Navigation from Trinidad to Guajara 2. By rail to San Antonio... 3. Navigation from San Antonio to Serpa 9S000 96S000 9S360 Total 114S000 ,VI. — StTBSTITUTING A MACADAMISED EoAD FOE THE EaIL, THE CONSTETrCTION OF WHICH IS ESTIMATED AT 5, 700^000, THE FeEIGHT would be as FOLLOWS : 1. Interest on capital for construction, per year ... 570,0001000 2. Maintaining road, at 3,0008000 per league, em- ploying Bolivian Indians as labour ... ... 150,000S000 3. Making a round voyage in 18 days, transporting five tons, always in a cart drawn by four animals, there would be required, in all, 83 carts for the transportation of 10,000 tons annually. The 83 carts would cost, at the rate of 1,500S000, 124,5005000, and the interest on this capital at 10 per cent 12,450$000 4. Eenewal of same, per year ... ... ... 6,225^000 6. Eepairs „ „ 6,225$000 6. Grease, etc 500S000 7. 415 animals at 1508000=62,2508000, at 10 per cent 6,2258000 8. Eenewal of animals per year 6,225$000 9. Care of same at 158000 per month 7,4708000 10. Wages of 100 carmen at 208000 per month, per year 24,0008000 1 1 . Ten stations, or ranchos, at 5008000, at 10 per cent. 5008000 12. Administration — One director and three assistants 7,0008000 Total * 864,0008000 Or the freight of one ton transported on the macadamised road * Note by Translator.— Should be 796,820S000. 67 from-GuajardtoSan-Amonio ie therefore 86S400,* and for the total distance between Trinidad and Serpa. l.By the navigation of Trinidad and Guaporg 9g36o 2.^Macadamised road to San Antonio 86*400 3. Navigation from San Antonio to Serpa 9jj360 ^°*^ 105$120 ^■'■•~^° ™^ ABOVE-CALCTJLATBD FilETQHTS, WE WILL YET ADD * THOSE WHICH VrOULD RESULT PEOM MuLE-TEANSPOBTATION. This would be ovee, a Eoad that might run more or less IN A straight line AMONG THE RAMIFICATIONS OF THE SerBA GeeAL, PASSING THE SeRRA OF PaCOA-NoVA AT ITS SUMMIT. This freight, as one may judge beforehand, is greater than that by the actual navigation. The calculation is as follows : — 1. Opening the track in a straight line of, more or less, 45 leagues and a width of 30, metres, at 50 »•«« the square fathom 83,470jS000 2. Earthworks where the level may be imperfect, say l,000j^000 the kilometre 278,OOOSC0O 3 Construction of bridges 3 metres wide over streams and ravines, with a minimum of 807*000 per kilometre, for the entire distance ... ... 224,346*000 Total 585,819*000 For the calculation of the number of animals necessary, we have the^following data : — An animal wiU carry eight arrobas (32 lbs. each) four leagues per day. In consequence, the round voyage would be 22-2 days, in which there would be transported 0-26 tons. Each animal would carry in 300 available days 3-5 tons. For the transportation of 10,000 tons, the base adopted, 2,857 animals would be required. In round numbers 3,000 pack-mules. Their total price, with harness, would be, at 150*000 each, 450,000*000. * Note by Translator. —Should be 79S682. 68 The following, then, is the cost :-— 1. Interest per year on capital employed in opening road 2. Maintenance of road, per year, at 500SOOO per league ... 3. Eenewal of animals, 300 annually 4. Support of 3,000 animals, forage, etc., at20S000 per month 5. 375 mule tenders, 30$000 per month 6. 75 mule drivers, one for each five tenders, at 45S000 per month 7. Forage for 75 saddle mides for the same 8. Adminstration : — (a) 2 Managers 6,000»000 (i) 3 Book-keepers 4,500$000 (e) 30 Stable bojfs 18,0008000 (d) Lights 3,000»000 («) 10 Ramhoa 8,0008000 58,5008000 22,5008000 45,0008000 720,0008000 135,0008000 40,5008000 13,5008000 39,6008000 I Total 1,074,5008000 This freight by mules, in every way the most imperfect and dearest, is 1078000 per ton. We wUl add that in the province of Minas-Geras, this kind of transportation per ton per league is 68000 ; in the province of Parana, 38000 on an average — this latter being still a little dearer than the minimum as above calculated. H.— CONCLUSION. The better to understand the results reached in the above calcula- tions we give, in addition, the following table : — The advantages offered by the different plans, in this manner, become more evident, and the selection from them becomes easier. 69 Table of Feeights feom Seepa to Teinidad of the Beni OVER THE DIFFEEENT EorTES, PEOJEOTED IN THE Valley of the Madeiea and MAMOEii. All Calcialationa based on an annual transportation of 10,000 tons. Expense of Construction. IVeiglits per ton. 1. 10,000 tons transported as to-day in canoes of 6 tons, with, river in its present state, -would require 417 canoes and 4,170 oarsmen 2. Constructing mortonas at the rapids, procuring larger boats of 30 tons, and employing 90 boats and 2,250 oarsmen for annual traffic of 10,000 tons... 3. With steam navigation above and below, a canal at the rapids, with 4 tug-boats of 80 horse-power each, running 9 miles per hour, towing 100 tons 4. Navigation above and below, with mortona system at the rapids, 4 steamers, 7 latinchea of 30 tons each, with 175 oarsmen 5. Steam above and below rapids, rail- way round rapids, 50 cars of 6 tons each, and 100 animals ... 6. Steam above and below, a macadam- ized road at the rapids, with 83 carts and 416 animals ... N.B. — The construction of an improved road would be of little use, for the transit would only be free in dry weather. The preservation of it would therefore be very costly. Opening a mule track for the transporta- tion of 10,000 tons per year, which would . require 450 mule drivers and 3,000 pack mules ... 900,000$000 21,000,0008000 900,0008000 8,500,0008000 7,600,0008000 585,000$000 688354 17|600 2538800 368680 1148000 1238225 1078000 70 For the above table we give the followiDg elucidations : — 1st. The actual traffic to-day does not exceed 1,000 tons. It is d iffi cult to obtain the comparative small number of rowers for 60 or 70 canoes. Therefore, it will certainly be impossible to find the necessary number of oarsmen, corresponding to the future development of the commerce. For this reason the improvement of the actual route becomes indispensable, and neither commerce or industry can be developed unless this necessity is attended to. 2_nd. By the construction of inclined planes or mortonas, a craft of 30 tons burden becomes admissible, while the present one, which is with difficiilty rolled overland at places on rollers, only carries at most eight tons. By this means a considerable diminution of freight is obtained : the construction of an dlagem tract, until it becomes necessary to employ still larger vessels, shows that 30 tons is the most appropriate. 3rd. The opening of a navigable canal on one of the margins, and the construction of locks at the most appropriate points, would offer, without doubt, the most perfect means of communication. The small actual commerce and the future of but little brilliancy, if the BoKvian Government does not at the same time complete a network of communications in the interior of the country, retain no proportion whatever to the enormous outlays of such a canal. Actually, therefore, we cannot recommend the construction of so great a work. 1st. The project which offers the greatest advantages among aU is that by incUned planes or mortonas and smaJl craft at the rapids, and small steamers in the Mamore and Madeira. The same craft that navigate among the rapids can be towed by tug-boats above and below them, as there are no bars. The crew of the vessels being only 175 men. The indigenous population of the Beni, which is to-day physically and morally lost in a useless navigation, can return for the greater part to their accus- to-aed occupations of agriculture and industry. 6th and 6th. Although not only the expenses of construction, but the freight by a railway are greater than by a macadamized road, we stUl prefer the first on account of its ease of repairs. In any case, but principally if the new route is one of the last 71 two, it becomes indispensable to colonize tbat region, bitlierto tinoultivated, for the purpose of producing tbe food necessary to sustain tbe operatives and animals. From the above considerations, among the projects it is easily deduced that No. 4 recommends itself best for execution. It appears to us, however, that until there are in that part of the province of Mato-Grosso and BoHvia, which have a more immediate interest in the projected line of communication, a denser and more industrious population, that neither the realization of steam naviga- tion between Guajara and Trinidad, nor the construction of Mortonas between San Antonio and Guajara can result in great advantages.* God guard your Excellency. Eio de Janeiro, May 20th, 1869. Very illustrious and very excellent Sir, Dr. Counsellor Joaquim Antao Fernandes Leao, most worthy Minister and Secretary of State for Affairs of Agriculture, Commerce and ^Public Works. (Signed) JOSE & FEANCISCO KELLEE. * Note by Tkanslatoe.— The Messrs. Keller overlooked the fact that, without an outlet, the rich regions they descrihe can scarcely offer inducements to the settler or to increased population. "Within three years, 1,600 to 2,000 Bolivians have descended the rapids of the Madeira to find employment on the hanks of the lower river, where their energies might he productive. APPENDIX. [Translation.] Carlsruhe, 30th November, 1870. Dear Friend and Colleague, I wish, first, to try to answer the official part ; that is to say,, the technical questions, in your kind letter of the 21st instant,, concerning the project of the Madeira EaOwayi Before commencing, however, I shall beg you to call to the notice , of our English colleagues that, for my part, I am far from treating our v/ork as a complete work, but that I defy any one to do it more completely in the same space of time and under the circumstances in which we have done it. It was necessary, then, to make that exploration in the manner in which we have made it, or else not to do it at all. To your first question I must answer — Banks of large gravel are-, rather scarce, and it is only fine sand that is found in large quantities,, and almost everywhere, on the whole line. A cubic mfetre might cost, with an average transport of 1,200' mfetres, 3-4 francs. To the 2nd — The quality of land is, as everywhere in Brazil, red clay, mixed, more or less, with sand, and covteredwith a bed of soil of a thickness of 30-40 centimes. The price of 7 milreis, or 20 francs a cubic fathom (brar^a cuhica)^ or 2 francs a mHre, is that of the " Uniao e Industria" line. To the 3rd — In consequence of the formation of the soU, which oa the banks of the affluents always consists of alluvium, I have n» doubt, although we made no special researches with this view, that iron screw-piles — more simple and economical, in this case, than in any other kind — can be employed. 74 These affluents have not a strong current, and do not drift many ferees. They come piincipally by the Beni, which, happily, we have ai»t got to pass. The width of these affluents varies from a few metres to ISO meta?es. Of this latter and considerable size there is, however, only ■one. To the 4th— The rocks of the banks of the Madeira in the cataracts lielong to metamorphic formations, and resemble gneiss, mica-schist i(Glimnierschiefes) and granite. They are veiy hard, and the extraction of these stones would be -veiy costly, but their quantity is luckily very small, the track of the arailway coming close to the foot of the hUls in a few places only. It will be more profitable in all cases to construct all works of any importance of iron, and to avoid as much as possible stone-con- structions. Close to the mouth of the Mamor^ only, stone more easUy worked is found — a kind of ferruginous sandstone (pedra canga), of which the walls of the Fort do Piincipe da Beira, in Matogrosso, are bu^Ut. To the 6th — The forests of Madeira are — like all the forests of tropical America — very rich in building-woods, which greatly surpass in quality those of temperate climates. If there were no iron, covered wooden bridges might be constructed that would prove more durable than even the covered oak bridges simong us, which last almost for centuries. But the building of the bridges of the " Companhia Uniao e Indus- tria," where at first we tried to use wood (in trellis, etc.), showed us that the cost of the transport of selected wc ods, the opening of roads across the forest, which is full of thorny brakes, and the high wages of European carpenters, made a wooden bridge come almost as dear as an iron one. As to sleepers it is another thing, for neither long tracks for their •carriage are i-equired, nor good carpenters to prepare them. To the 6th — In this alluvial soil it is not difficult to find clay fit to amake bricks. To the 7th — Although the right bank of the Madeira, at San Ajitonio as well as Guajara, may be below the level of extraordinary floods, the difference is not great, and it seems to me more profitable to make the few embankments necessary for the station on the very ■edge of the river, than to place the station five hundred or more metres from the bank. 75 To the 8th — At.San Antonio, at least, it will be easy to place the ^station so that there shall not be too much current along the jetty or -quay during high water ; and even at GuajarS there is nothing to : fear on that account, since a more favourable location can always be found higher up by prolonging the railway. About the topographical plan, it should be remembered that if it be wished to speak of the average height of the two banks, the left, or western bank, is rather more hilly arid elevated than the opposite one ; but, even if it were the contrary, the local formation of the bank, the width, depth, and fall of the river, are the data for deter- mining whether, during the floods, the current at a given point will be . strong or not. Generally speaking, absolutely nothing can be said on this point, unless it be that the current on one side is, on the whole, quite as - strong as on the other. I hope that these replies are fairly satisfactory ; and I have only to speak abou.t one other matter. You ask me if, on receiving a telegram from you, I can come immediately to London. Although I am in a position to respond without delay to your .summons, I should not, however, be willing to make the journey to London to no purpose, and I should like to know before coming there the offers the new Company intend to make me. I thank you for the review that you have kindly sent me ; and as to your article, so ably expressed, I have nothing to remark, except that neither my father nor I are Prussians, but thorough Germans. *********** Thanking you again for your photograph, which has pleased me greatly, I am, Sir, With the most perfect consideration. Your Friend and Colleague, (Signed) F. Keller. Col. Georre Earl Church, 19, Great Winchester Street, London (E.C.) EXPLORATION RIVERS AND LAKES DEPARTMENT OF THE BENI, BOLIVIA, By JOSE AGUSTIN PALACIOS, 1844 TO 1847; ALSO, HIS NOTES KKLATIVE TO THE DEPARTMENT OF MOJOS. THAXSLATED mOM SPANISH BT! JAS. WJI. BAEEY, Secretaut, MADEIRA AND MAMORE RAILWAY COMPANY, LIMITED. 1874. PROVINCE OF MOJOS. (From El Gonstitucional. 14th January, 1869). Notes relative to the Province of Mdjos, in the Depart- ment OF THE BeNI, taken BY DON Jos6 AgUSTIN Palacios, in the years 1844 to '47, during which he was employed there as administrator general of Taxes of the Department. POSITION. This province called Musu (nowadays Mojos, which was conquered by the first Inca, Yupanqui, is situated between 10 deg. and 16 deg., south latitude, and 64 deg. and 70 deg. longitude, west of the meridian of Paris, representing an oblong superficies containing 13,750 square leagues of 25 to the degree. / Boundaries. — On the north, by Peru; east, by Brazil; south, by Chiquitos, with the departments of Sucre and Cochabamba ; and, on the west, by the province of Caupolican, in the depart- ment of La Paz. TERRITORY. The land lies very low, and the greater part is generally inundated for a certain time every year. It is very probable, judging from the appearance of the land-surface, that, [not many centuries ago, this territory was covered by the sea. Of this there are many proofs— for instan'ce, there are no other heights therein than the banks of the rivers and lagoons, except the elevations which will be hereafter 85 indicated ; and that the rivers — the Mamord particularly — form, every year, deposits of mud. These deposits are known among geologists by the name of "alluvial earth," which is very fertile, and, according to travellers, resembles that which the Nile deposits, in Egypt. Finally, that, in the towns of the interior, near San Joaquin, there are patripas recently covered with trees, of which the regularity in the order wherein they have been , placed is surprising, and appears, at first sight, as if the hand of man had intervened ; so that nature advances continually, little by little, according to the conditions of each year. The inundations, of which mention has been made, follow a direction from north to east as far as the fort of PriTici'pe Imperial, in Brazil, where the hill-ranges commeHce. MOUNTAINS. Only four hills, or insignificant heights, are to be seen, namely :^ 1. That of El Carmen, at fifteen leagues to the south-east, between the rivers Blanco and San Miguel. 2. El Colorado, on the right bank of the river Machupo, near San Ramon. 3. At five leagues from Exaltacion, to the right of the Mamore, on the brink of the Iruyane ; and 4. The range of San Simon (sketches of which I preserve) is discernible to the east of Magdalena and Baures, and is very rich in gold-mines. RIVERS. The Barbados, which rises in the province of Chiquitos and gives birth to the Guapord or Ite'nes, is navigable as far as Casalbasco, and could be united with the Paraguay by opening a canal of 4,800 yards in a flat soft soil. By this means, the Plata and Amazon woidd be connected, giving a navio-able extent of 1,200 leagues. The Verde has its origin in San Ignacio de Chiquitos, and, 81 after coursing north, west, and east, joins the BarMdos in longitude 64 deg. and latitude 14 deg. The Serre rises to the north of Goncepcion de Chiqultos, is incorporated with the Guapore twenty-five leagues lower down. The Blanco, or Enures, also rises in Goncepcion de Chiqultos, and like the two foregoing it courses north, west, and east, passing close by Goncepcion de Enures, discharging itself into the Itenes, near the fort of Beira. The Machupo enriches its waters with the streams of San Juan, is navigable from San Pedro. The Moocho, the Mohino, the Machupo, and the Ghananona, all pass together in front of San Ramon and San Joaquin, and combine with the Itonona, and, jointly with the latter, flow into the Guapor^ also near the fort Beira. The Guapore runs to the west, east, north, west, east, and then incorporates itself with the Mamord, at 12 deg. south latitude and 68 deg. longitude, west of the meridian of Paris. The Mamore receives aU the waters of the eastern slope of the' Cordilleras. Its tributaries, beginning on the east, are as follows : — The Ibare flows west and east from the country of the Guarayos, and, coursing north, west, east, receives, on the left, the waters of the Tico and San Antonio, and joins the Mamore a little above Trinidad. The Rio Grande or Zara is situated in the north of the Province. -The Piray rises in Samaipata; passes close to Santa Cruz and unites with the Rio Grande at 15 deg. south latitude. The Ibabo flows, at first, under the name of Yapacani; passes close to San Carlos and enters the Mamord, with a south-easterly direction; near Zara. Between these two rivers are found the well-known Sirion6s Indians, the terror of the Mojeiios, whose insecure' boats continually expose them to become the victims of the ferocity of those barbarians, of a cruel and obstinate character. They are true children of nature, since both sexes go completely naked. Most of them are rather fair, and have beards and Roman noses. The frontiers of this side of the capital are always exposed to the incursions of those wild Indians, one of which happens regularly eve^-y year. 82 The Mamord rises to the east of the Ibabo upon the eastern slope of the Cordillera de los Yuracaris. Its bulk is increased by the Chimor^. It flows northwards, and, for some degrees, deflects west and east. This river preserves its name as far as 10 deg. south latitude, where, combined with the Beni, it takes the name of the Madeira. The Chapare, formed by the rivers Coni, San Mateo, Paracti, and many others, rises in Yuracares to the west of the Mamore, flowing into it rectangularly, on the south, in 15 deg. south latitude. The S&ure, formed by the rivers Chipiriri, Samusebete, Isiboro, Yaniyuta, Se'cure, and Sinuta, receives the torrents from the eastern slope of this watershed, between 68 deg. and 70 deg. west longitude. It unites -^vith the Mamore in front of Trinidad, towards the north, in 150 latitude. The Tijamucbe rises westward of the Secure. It receives the waters of the Taricuri, traverses the north-easterly part as far as the Mamore, into which it flows in latitude 14 deg., a little above San Pedro. The Apere rises westward of the former, receives the tribute of the San Jos^, courses north-east, flowing into the Mamore half a degree from the aforesaid, at a distance often leagues. The Yacuma rises to the westward of the Apere, near Reyes, and, augmented by the river Eapido, passes by the town of Santa Ana, joining the ilamore in latitude 14 deg. The Iriyane rises in the pampas of Reyes, and, swelled by the river Boroca, flows into the Mamore, in 13 deg. latitude, towards the north. The Mamord, after receiving these ele^•en affluents, unites with the Itenes, or Guapord, in latitude 12 deg., and continues northwards until its confluence with the Beni, both forming the Madeira. Between the Mamor^ and the last chain of the Andes there is a large portion of unexplored land, which commences near the towns of Buena Vista and San Carlos, whence the mountain-range takes another direction towards the north-north-east, until opposite Exaltacion, a town situated more to the north of Mojos. The distance between the range 88 and Exaltacion exceeds eighty leagues. A large portion ofthis land is the best in the whole of M6jos ; is more elevated, and only in some parts subject to inundations. Here reside wild Indians, many of whom are already known ; amongst them the Toromdnas, who extend as far as the river Purus, or Cuchibare. TRIBUTARIES OF THE BENI. The river Beni empties itself in the plain at the point of Rurenabaque, in 14 deg. latitude, receives the rivers Yungas, Ayopaya, Inquisivi, Larecaja, and Muiiecas (as shown in the plan which I have made), together with the Tuiche of Caupo- lican; and, moreover, the rivers TJndumu, Madidi, and others issuing from the east and from Carabaya. It continues its course towards the north as far as 11 deg., where it changes its direction, swerving to the north-east, and blending at length with the Mamore in 10 deg,- latitude. They calculate 18 degrees, or 10,000 square leagues, for twenty-four rivers, all navigable for steamboats. LAKES. There exists in Mqjos a lake called Rogo-Aguado, or Domti, the length of which is seventeen leagUes ; depth, two fathoms and a half. For further information with regard to this lake the reader may consult the diary of my voyage in the year 1845. The lake of Ibachuna, or Lago del Viento (Windy Lake), which will have the length of four leagues of latitude and eight of longitude from north to south, drains into the Rogo-Aguado. The little lake of Yapacha towards the north-east. On the east is found another little lagoon called Puaja, the waters of which, with those of Rojo^Aguado and Yapacha, form the river Yata-chico, a tributary of the Mamord. I take the Yata-grande to be a branch of the Beni, from the clearness of its waters and the stratification of the soil, since, in the plains, t^here is no appearance of its source, 84 The lagoon of Chitiope, which is situated further up than Carmen, at the very head of the Kio Blanco. The Itonama is found placed on the river of the same name, and is five leagues in length, and two in breadth. Near San Eamon, two lakes are to be seen, the one at a distance of half a league, and the other at two leagues. Both are of an oblong shape. Near San Joaquin, also, there is another lake. CLIMATE. Only two seasons are known in the province — summer and winter ; the former is the wet season, the latter the dry. The average temperature throughout the province is 70 deg. Fahren- heit, and does not descend lower than 35 deg., for which reason it is tolerably healthy. Prevailing Winds. — This province being situated at the tropic of Capricorn, the prevailing wind through the year should be the south-east ; but it is noticeable that the north-east is the only wind in summer : and in winter, from May to September, the north and north-east alternate, with intervals of the south, which only lasts at the most three days. Of these, the first, which comes from some snowy mountain-ranges, is very dry, cold and piercing, with heavy rains and very violent hurricanes, which cause ravages, and even the death of old men, children, and cattle. The second, traversing an immense tract of forest, is humid, very healthy, and at times strong ; and without this it would not be possible to inhabit the place, by reason of the mosquitos and other insects which infest the place. POPULATION. According to the statistical returns sent in by the curates to the bishopric, the population exceeds thirty thousand inha- bitants. A great difference is observable in thB deaths of males and females. The number of widows in all the towns exceeds that of the widowers. The reason is that the men, in 85 consequence of their profession, perish insensibly in navigation, through the dangers incident to their canoes on their voyages, and by many other accidents to which the opposite sex is not subject. Thus it is that the population has not increased. It is undeniable that the Mojenos possess great natural talent. A paternal solicitude on behalf of the Government of Bolivia to make them acquire a competent knowledge of arts and the necessary branches of education would be one of the first elements of action which would contribute to render M6jos what it now is not, and which it only rests with the future to develop. TRIBES WHICH INHABIT THE SOIL. The Mojos have originally occupied from 13 deg. to 16 deg. south latitude, and 64 deg. to 69 deg. west longitude. The Itonamas occupy from 13 deg. to 14 deg. south latitude, and 65 deg. to 67 deg. longitude west of Paris. The Canichanas are comprised within 13 deg. and 14 deg. south latitude, and 67 deg. and 68 deg. west longitude. The Moblnes dwell to the west of the Mamor4 on the banks of the Yacuma, in latitude 14 deg., 68 deg. to 69 deg. west longitude. The Itdnes are at 12 deg. south' latitude, between the rivers Mamore and Itenes, and are known by the name of Guardyos. They are bearded. The Pacagudras are at 10 deg. latitude, and 67 deg. to 68 deg. west longitude. The Chapacuras are 15 deg. south latitude, and 64 deg. to 65 deg. west longitude. The Mardpas are on the river Beni, and are called Reyesanos. The Sirionos are found on the Rio Grande and the Piray, between Santa Cruz and M6jos, from 17 deg. to 18 deg, south latitude, and 68 deg. longitude west of Paris. Langua&E. — The principal dialect is the M6jo; nevertheless, there exist many other distinct ones of the different tribes which populate M6J0S, such as the Canichana, Mobima, Itonama, Guarayo, Cayubaba, and others. 86 Cantons. — The province is divided into fourteen cantons, which are as follows: — Trinidad, at three leagues from the Mamord, and two from the Ibare. Lorefo, at twelve leagues from the aforesaid, towards the south-east. San Javier, at six leagues from Trinidad, between the mouths of the Tijamuche and Apere. San Pedro is found at six leagues to the north of San Javier. San Ramon, to the north-north-east of San Pedro, distant from it thirty leagues. San Joaqiiin, situated at eight leagues to the north of San Eamon. MagdaXena, at twenty- five leagues to the east of San Ramon. Gfuacaraje, at a dis- tance of nine leagues from Concepcion; and the latter at twenty leagues to the south of Magdalena. Cdrmen, lying along the right bank of the Rio Blanco. Exaltacion, to the north of Santa Ana, distant some fifteen leagues. Santa Ana, at a quarter of a league from the river Yacuma. Reyes, to the westward of the aforesaid, at a distance of seventy to eighty leagues. San Ignacio, to the westward of Trinidad, at fifteen leagues' distance. There also exist many estancias, situated half-way between one town and the another. nArnDS.— (Besides Rivers). It has been believed that one of the insuperable obstacles to the navigation of the Maderia are the rapids (cachuelas). This inconvenience is one that might easily be surmounted, so as to throw open the navigation at the same time. There are three classes of rapids, divided in the following manner : — 1st Class. — Ribeirao, Girao, and Theotonio are dangerous 2nd Class. — Guajara-Guassu, Bananeiras, Pao Grande, Madeira, Araras, Pederneira, Paredao, Caldeirao, Morrinhos, and Santo Antonio. At four leagues distance from the last named lies the island of Tamandu^, where the Brazilians assemble every year to make turtle-butter, and carry away immense loads of thesg animals. This being the only part in which the turtles abound in the river Madeira, as, also, in the- Maranhao, where a similar one is found, so great is the abundance that it is impossible for a roan to take away the eggs, each of which cont£^ins from 90 87 to 110 of spawn. The egg is round, rough, and elastic, might do for a " pelota," agreeable to the palate. These little oviparians are, at the time of their being hatched, the victims of the crocodiles ; but, notwithstanding this, they increase rapidly. 3rd Class. — Guajar£-Merim, Lages, Misericordia, Periquitos Tres Irmaos, and Macacos. PRODUCTIONS. It appears that Providence has wished to make a perfect paradise of the eastern part of Bolivia. Nature has taken pains in adorning this place, giving it all the attractions of its benefits. In a little sketch like the present, it is difficult to recount all that M6J0S possesses in the three kingdoms. It only leaves its inhabitants to wish, becaiise they find whatever is produced in the three zones. Animals of infinite variety inhabit these fertile regions, and ^ among them horses and cattle abound. From the fierce tiger or jaguar to the meek lamb, from the stately American eagle to the imperceptibly-small organillo, and from the fair sportive butterfly to the minutest denizen of the microscopic world — all are to be seen there. Delightful abode, where man enjoys and admires so many marvellous animals created for him ! It would take a large volume and not the pages of a news- paper to give a catalogue of the vegetation. Immense woods, fertile valleys intersected by important streams, are everyTvliere to be met with. The encircling air is perfumed by various flowers. How close must be the vegetation, where one sees everything, from the bulky cedar and the lofty palm to the lowly moss ! where many precious and varied cabinet- woods are found, such as mahogany, tirbeti, lignum vitse, jacarandd,, the strong cJionta, the bibosi, the famous rose-wood so esteemed in Europe, . various resin-yielding trees. The india-rubber tree grows abundantly, and proves of great value, being employed for manufacturing purposes, and even for ships. Vegetable products are found which are useful in dyeing, 88 such as Brazil-wood, tartaguillo, (spurge), ardl or indigo, acliiote (heart-leaved hixwort), nopal or prickly pear-tree, and others. For medicinal purposes there is a multitude of plants, from which chemical manipulation extracts balsams and thera,peutic drugs ; among these are the valuable Peruvian bark — quvna or cascarilla ; the chepereque, good for curing any sort of wound ; many others of great value in commerce, such as vaniUa, coffee, cocoa, coca, and all that man needs for his consumption. Still further, minerals of every kind in abundance, and principally gold, constitute the riches of this place. It would be dififuse to advert to numerous other indigenous productions of this central portion of South America, where the Supreme Creator has been pleased to encasket so many treasures for the enjoyment of Bolivia and her sons — power, wealth, and civilisation ; and, by opening her gates to foreign commerce, she would become the foster-mother to thousands of exiles, whom starvation banishes from Europe. CONCLUSION. In closing this sketch, so imperfectly executed, it is necessary to point out that the immense territory which we occupy is best adapted for foreign emigrants, on account of its rich and innu- merable productions of every description, unsurpassed in any other part of South America, and by reason of the multitude of its navigable rivers, the fertility of its soil, which yields a boun- tiful return to the sower; and, lastly, because of its peculiar situation, it comprises advantages vastly superior to the remain- ing districts of Bolivia. The project of emigration, as well as that of navigation, un- fortunately, cannot be carried out until the cessation of the dissensions and internal feuds which distract the attention of the governing authorities from an object of such great importance, which is to place the whole of Oriental Bolivia in contact with 89 the great markets of the United States of North America, whence their commodities would be imported with considerable utility. Under this influence the sciences, commerce, arts, and all the useful manufactures would advance. I pray to Heaven that this wished-for day may arrive, when, beneath the shadow of peace, Bolivia might become the precious gem of the Continent, and add new glory to the immortal genius who established it. (Signed) Jos^ Agustin Palacios. DEPARTMENT OF THE BENI. Navigation of the River Beni, Rogo-agxjado, Mapeira, ETC., IN the Department of the Beni, by Jos^ Agustin Palacios, in the year 1844. The vast and rich territory which Bolivia possesses towards her orient attracts, nowadays, the attention of energetic Europeans ; and the navigation of the mighty rivers which water its whole area is the thought which predominates with several joint-stock Companies capable of realizing so great a project. In view of this, it seems to me opportune to re-publish my " Explorations of the Madeira," in order that I may contribute something, little though it may be, to the noble work now in contemplation for the welfare of Bolivia and the glory of our patriotic Government, which so zealously studies the interests of the nation. In the year 1846, 1 had the fortune of paying a visit to all the affluents that swell the majestic Madeira, a tributary of the Amazon. I am, therefore, convinced that no other traveller can furnish more abundant and reliable data than those re- corded in my work alluded to, and others yet in MS.. I deter- mined to make another voyage for commercial purposes, and carefully observed everything I met with. In the brief account I give of my daily adventures, as a guide 92 to those who are attracted to follow in my steps, my countrymen will not, I hope, overlook the difficultifes which I encountered. The want of a lithographic press renders this publication incomplete ; for I should wish it to be accompanied by a map of those parts, illustrating the courses of all the rivers. I procured a few. copies to send to persons to whom they will prove useful, and am prepared to lend the original to all who may desire to copy it. EIVER BENI. When the Supreme Government of the Republic was pleased to appoint me Administrator-General of Revenue in the Depart- ment of the Beni, and afterwards to commission me to navigate the great river of that name, and the others with which I occupy myself further on, I felt an earnest desire to be use- ful to my country. I knew the risks and dangers I would have to encounter in my arduous task, but the conviction that the successful issue of my commission would furnish Bolivia with the means of prosperity and aggrandisement made me cheerfully encounter all. On one occasion, when instructions were given to me relative to the communications which should be established between the towns of the Beni and those of the province of Yungas, I had the pleasure of informing the Government as to that which would be useful in connection with the explorations I made from Reyes to the canton of Libertad, capital of the said pro- vince of Yungas. This comprehends a distance of one hundred and thirteen leagues, but, by land, the distance would be con- siderably less. The country is very fertile, covered with high mountains, on which are to be found various kinds of Peruvian bark. There are, moreover, level and spacious slopes, which offer every convenience for a road, with the exception of twenty leagues, from Tamampaya to Ebcnay, in which are to be found seven rugged .spurs of hills of a good size. Two bridges are needed in the rivers Tamampaya and Totorani, althouoh there 93 exists a road opened up by Seiior Revuelta. These would cost but little, because the rocks in that vicinity are of the kind used for grindstones. From the capital of this department to that of Yungas there is a distance of thirty leagues, by different roads, all accessible to traffic of every description. From the capital of the Beni, or Trinidad de M6jos, to the town of Reyes, there are one hundred leagues of good land and water communication. There is yet another route from the town of St. Borja, in the province of Mdjos, by way of the mission of Chimenes, to Santa Ana de Mosetenes, situated on the bank of the river Beni, and sixty-two leagues from Reyes and fifty-one leagues from the capital of Yungas. I inspected this route with the Superin- tendent of San Borja, in company with twelve Chimenes, who descended the river Beni as far as Reyes. Here no impediment occurs to the opening of a good road whereby the merchants of both departments might convey their goods with convenience. The navigation of the river Beni presents this difficulty, that it only admits the passage of light and narrow wood-rafts, in consequence of the sandbanks and strait channels. Moreover, the bends of the river form rapids or strong currents, which, on the slightest want of care in manipulating the raft, would tear them asunder. Nevertheless, with flat-bottomed iron boats, the navigation would be greatly facilitated. The most dangerous rapids are those of Charia, Guachiv6, Sipna, Wayaniboco, Sitipti, Chanami, Napaiiati y Poraqui, as far as Magdalena, a mis- sion-town at 14-|^ degrees beyond Iripachiqui, Bopinay, Mitti, Punuya, Bohoy, Pinechi, Toracaya, and Sira, which are below and do not offer much risk. Further down stream is to be found the rapid of Beli and the currents of Sibava, Quendique, Sambd, Torre and Chaguacala. There is a good depth in some parts, while in others it is but small. The rivers of the province of Yungas flow into the Beni, under the names of the Bopi, Sorata, and Munecas. Other tributaries are — the rivers Mapira, or Caca, those of Caupolican, the Tuichi, and the Cochabamba, with the Beni, and many other important ones, flowing by the mission of Cabinas, situated behind B 94 Carabaya, extending towards the wild tract of the Toromonas, as far as the bank of the river Magno, Purus, or Cuchivare. No one had explored the remainder of the river Beni until the year 1846, when Burza, a Prussian, was sent, but without much success. I pushed up-stream from the confluence of the Madeira with the Mamord, and explored that rapid, believed to be an immense cataract, of which I shall speak in due course. In some parts bordering the river are found veins of silver and gold, and beds of salt, coal, lime, etc. ; while diamonds exist in the Tequeje. There are, moreover, many valuable fossilized remains, and a variety of rare and wonderful objects, animal, vegetable, and mineral, wherewith to enrich a museujn of Natural History. LAKE ROJO-AGUADO. A.D. 1845. The Supreme Government being desirous of knowing whether the extensive lake Rojo-Aguado had any communication with the Beni, or if it flowed out of it, in order to facilitate its navi- gation by the Mamor^, ordered me to make explorations for this purpose. I aceordingly started on this expedition. I set out from the to^vn of Exaltacion, which is the nearest in the vicinity, and shaped my course W.N.W. five leagues, as far as the station of La Cruz. Half-a-league before arriving there we crossed the river Iruyand, which runs in a north-easterly direction. It contains an abundance of water, and is capable of being navi- gated. Its exact source is not known, but it is supposed to flow out of the Beni, or from some marshes or pools in the plains of Reyes. At the above-named station there is a flat-topped hill, about three hundred yards high, with square base. It is com- posed of white " soroche" stone, highly auriferous, and is every- where covered with coarse grass and forest, amongst which is found the rubber-tree. Thence I continued my march westward as far as the station of San Carlos, a distance of eight leagues. The site is enclosed 95 by marshes and hill-slopes, which afford good pasturage to large herds of cattle. Continuing to the N.E. for three leagues, I came across the lagoon of Ibachuna, or Del Viento. This piece of water measures four leagues in width, and eight in length, from north to south. The channel is surrounded by marshes as far as lake Rojo-Aguado. I then proceeded N.E. ^ N. for two leagues, changing to the east three leagues, north-east two leagues, to the east two more, through lower tracts as far as lake Rojo-Aguado, known also by the name of Domu. On its banks there still exist traces of the ancient dwellings of the Cayubabas, who now-a-days constitute the population of Exaltacion. This town is surrounded by a ditch, or moat, probably as a protection against the incursions of the Chacobos, Caripunas, or Paca- guaras. From this place, finding that the boat I was relying on was not completed, I made an excursion in a small canoe to the two islands midstream, a league distant. These are covered with impenetrable thickets. The surface is slightly higher than the lake — in that spot not more than a fathom deep. On the following day I launched the boat, measuring twelve yards in length, one and a quarter wide, and one deep ; but as, it would sway about considerably I had two little canoes tied on, which served as ballast. I sailed from the port in the direction N.E. I N. At five leagues' distance, I found a brook which serves as an outlet, and is connected with another small lake towards the north-east, called Yapacha. I now changed my course, coasting E.N.E. for three leagues, continuing for three leagues more towards S.E. ^ S. Thence I steered due south for eight leagues, one-and-a-quarter to the south-east, and four-and-a-half to the S. ^ E. I sailed with the wind on the quarter, at the rate of six miles an hour, over a mean depth of two-and-a-half fathoms. I landed on some of the promontories, and observed that the forest extended only to a short distance; but the prairies are so vast that they extend to the horizon. I set them alight. We descried, to the north- east, some smoke' from the camp-fire of the wild Chacobo indians. We afterwards saw them. They numbered more than three hundred, including some fair and ruddy faces. I continued to the E. I N., and, having sailed four leagues, the 96 wind, blowing from the N., became so impetuous that large waves were raised, and the boat was swamped, so that, more than once, I was nearly wrecked. I, therefore, landed and remained on shore for twenty-four hours, until the violence of the wind abated. This not occurring as soon as desirable, I, wishing to employ the time profitably, explored the mouth of the stream Ibachuna with great success. I started the following day, rowing against the wind, the water being so boisterous that it threatened every moment to submerge the boat. I steered N.N.E. for six leagues, until I reached the port I started from. The lagoon is of clean and good water. The bed is composed of oxide of iron, with a depth of two-andra-half fathoms. There is a large quantity of ray and other fish, alligators, and hufeos. There also exists a large number of wild fowl, including the bird called toro, the size of a partridge, with black plumage, in the form of a parasol, on the head. It has, moreover, a pouch on the chest, with black feathers of the same general character as those on the body, but much finer. Its note is like the lowing of oxen. In the forest are almonds of various kinds. To the east there is another small lagoon called Puaja, of which the waters, joined to those of Rojo-Aguado and Yapacha, form the Yata Chico, or " black river," which flows into the Mamord I think that the Yata Grande is merely a branch of the Beni, on account of the clearness of its waters, the sloping away of the land towards the Mamor^, and because in the prairies its source is imperceptible. The only one traceable is the Rio Negro of the lagoon Rogagua, in Reyes, which, also, is a confluent of the Beni. The navigation of the Yata Grande is interesting, and I should have undertaken it when I went down the Madeira if I had had a body of armed men. This is absolutely necessary, on account of the large number of savages swarming its banks. Nevertheless, I ascended as far as its rapid, where a large quantity of tar is to be found. The Iruyane is worth exploring for the same reasons as the Yata. 97 RIVERS MAMORfi AND MADEIRA. A.D. 1846. The high importance to Bolivia of my subject obliges me to call the attention of my fellow-townsmen, of the Government, and of all men interested in the progress of mankind, to a matter which has hitherto been looked upon with indifference. Our State Administrators have busied themselves solely with the acquisition of the poi-t of Arica, deeming this to be the only channel for ameliorating the condition of Bolivia, and even for establishing her political existence on a solid and firm basis. But the navigation of the Madeira offers an opening the bene- ficial results of which are incalculable. This is the first point our Government should consider. Once embarked on this expedition nothing could deter me — not even the vast and dangerous rapids of this famous river — the numerous wild Indians that inhabit its banks — or the tragic end of the unfortxmate Senor Tadeo Gorriti, who fell a victim to the fury of these barbarians. I did not shrink from the rickety little canoes, which, measuring only about 12 yards in length, 1^ in width, and f of a yard deep, are, therefore, risky vehicles to travel in. Add to this the disinclination of the boatmen. In the expedition sent out by the Prefect Don Jose Barja, the crew fled at the sight of the first rapid they encountered. Such, then, were the difficulties I had to contend against, which obliged me to act with firmness towards the crew, composed, as it was, of men who took but little interest in the enterprise, which they regarded as impracticable or highty dangerous. Moreover, the very authorities of the Beni Department, instead of working to aid our interests in that quarter, and observing a pacific and conciliatory bearing, would seem to have principally consulted their own convenience, and, for this pur- pose, to have resorted to the most despotic means. This course would tend to act as a deterrent to immigration, notwithstanding that those fertile regions invitingly offer their riches to .all who determine to work to obtain them. !J8 At length, after great efforts, I was able, on the 7th of October, 1846, to start. I took with me my son Gregory and six armed men. The Vicar, Dr. Eustaquio Duran, also accom- panied me, with the intention of endeavouring to convert the barbarians, and infuse into their minds the sublime tenets of our holy religion. His retinue consisted of twenty boatmen in a garitea, and fifteen in a canoe. The crew consisted entirely of Cayubaba Indians from Exaltacion. I had a canoe with fif- teen Canichanas, from San Pedro, another with fifteen Trini- tarios, and a ^mall pilot-boat, manned by six Cayubabas. The only things I stood in need of were practical technical knowledge and instruments. However, all was compensated by my ardent desire to be the first to achieve for my country a discovery which, I doubt not, will, one day, be the germ of her prosperity and happiness. Seventh Day. Set sail from the port of San Martin, distant a quarter of a league from Exaltacion. We steered north, the wind being contrary. It blows from that quarter uniformly throughout the river. The depth of the Mamore is i'rom five to six fathoms, the width 300 yards, and cun-ent half a league an hour. The heat, by Fahren- heit's thermometer, was 84 deg. We shifted east or west, according to the windings of the river, making four leagues north, as far as the confluence of the River Iruyana, which lies on the left. For a league we met with rocks of oxide of iron. At 4 P.M. the thermometer rose to 90 deg., and we had a heavy fall of rain for half an hour. Continuing on our way, we arrived at a place called Navidad, having sailed seven leagues. There one sees the last of the -vvretched huts erected by the natives of Exaltacion. The banks of the Mamord lie low, and are heavily timbered, the water's edge being lined -with willows and long grass, or reeds. Eighth Day. The atmosphere became cloudy. We continued our journey, the current running one mile an hour ; depth, six fathoms ; dead calm J. thermometer, 81 deg. At mid-day, the wind blew rouo-hly 99 from the north. We saw to the north-east the fires from the dwellings of the Chacobo Indians. Depth of river, ten fathoms. Upon the banks are several abandoned cocoa plantations belong- ing to the State. At 3 P.M. the thermometer rose to 87 deg., and it commenced to rain. Half a league from the river Matucar^ towards the right, are found strata of oxide of iron. Continuing for another half a league, we stopped at an island, having sailed ten leagues with the same course as the day previous. The Mamor^ is two hundred yards wide. Ninth Day. Atmosphere still cloudy. We followed the windings of the river, finding ten fathoms of water. Kun thus for a league. Thermometer, 84 deg. ; same bearings. The stream Achichuru (the name signifies agitation) flows in on the right ; another, called Boroboro, on the left ; a third, the Tanarupi, also to the right, equal in volume and width to the Matucard. There are here rocks of the same oxide, and a deserted cocoa-plantation belonging to the State. On the left enters the Mayosa stream. In this vicinity we met Maba, chief of the wild Chacobo Indians, Bora, and two companions. The Vicar urged the first-named individual to persuade his people of the advantages they would acquire by forming a mission. We delivered to the chief the message sent for him by the President of the Republic. Having sailed ten leagues, we passed the night in a place we called Posancos. Tenth Day. Cloudy : thermometer, 77. Mam ore three hundred yards wide; soundings, good five fathoms. Three streams — Yona, Pejo, and Toro, enter on the left. At 10 o'clock the thermometer stood at 89 deg. In all these parts there are high slopes with palm trees. At noon the thermometer marked 100 deg. We caught sight of the high ground on which stands the fort of Principe de Beira, to the north-east. At 4 P.M. the thermometer fell to 80 deg., and we had a heavy rain which continued till we reached the confluence of the Itenes, or Guapord, the width of which is 500 yards, and depth 3 yards at mid-channel. It has another affluent 100 yards wide and 3 feet deep.. Both 100 How from south to north. The width of the Mamore, at this part, is 300 yards, with 7 fathoms depth. The direction is towards the east, but that of the Itenes points north. Both are 800 yards wide, and 6 fathoms deep; current, half a league. From this part onwards there are convenient sites for building towns, particularly along the left bank. Here the Brazilians once had a port which, after having half-built, they abandoned.. We travelled eleven leagues that day. Eleventh Day. Being Sunday, the Vicar performed Mass for us. Meanwhile, the baggage, and provisions were dried. We then continued to the N., leaving on our left three low hill-ranges clothed with rich foliage. After journeying two leagues, we encountered the oxide strata, and a pleasant spot which was well adapted for a township, with a convenient anchorage and a stream which has its source among the haunts of the wild Sinabo Indians. Thermometer, 90 deg. At four leagues, the opening of the Yata Chico is encountered. This stream is also called the Rio Prieto, on account of the blackness of its waters, which flow out of the lagoons already mentioned. The natives of the country call this stream Jibo. The width is 12 yards, and the depth 2 fathoms. Superior almonds of various kinds grow in the neighbourhood. At 5 p.m. we had some rain, with a southerly wind which blew so violently that we had to take shelter on a sand-bank, which we called South Bank, since we were sailing southwards. Distance traversed, 7 leagues. Now that I have spoken of the south-wind, I will here give some account of this phenomenon, which causes no small damage to men and cattle. It arises from the clouds descending con- siderably, and forming a spacious horizon from the cordillera which lies to the south. This wind being continuous, and the only passage being through this mountain-chain, it must either be driven back or become impregnated with nitrous* particles, which render it extremely cold; and, encountering opposition from the north, it forms a terrible hurricane, accompanied by rain or parching blight, which, though it lasts but three days at most, causes sudden death and destruction. The north-wind is 101 mild and fresh, although it proceeds from the arid coasts of Africa, for it traverses the Atlantic and the forests ,which extend from the mouth of the Amazon. It is thus cooled in such a manner that in M6jos the temperature is moderated by this cause, the thermometer never marking more than 70 deg., and descending to one-half that figure on those days when the atmosphere is charged — that is to say, during the prevalence of the south-wind. Twelfth Day. We ■ started during a heavy rain, shaping our course towards the S. Thermometer, 70 deg. ; current, 1 league ; soundings, 7 fathoms; width of the Mamor^ 1,000 yards. On the left, the river Soterio discharges itself, 25 yards in width. The slopes are steeper, and covered with dense forest-growth and palm trees. The lands are fertile — could not he better — and do not suffer from inundations like the Mojos district. We pro- ceeded for 7 leagues, and stopped at a landing which we called Elvira, on account of the abundance of trees of that name, from the bark of which are made tow-ropes for the boats. Thirteenth Day. We set out with a south wind, steering E.; depth, 16 fathoms; current, a league. The slopes at the Bolivian frontier are higher than those of Brazil. They are profusely covered with almond- trees, which are the loftiest trees of the forest, which, itself, is of colossal proportions. At a short distance towards the left, a brook empties itself To this, too, we gave the name of Elvira. At midday, the wind shifted into the N. Thermometer, 85 deg.; soundings, 8 fathoms. The land rises to more than 50 yards in height, clothed with almond and ipecacuanha-trees. Having proceeded 8 leagues, we stopped to have a rest; but, in the middle of the night, we were disturbed by a tiger, which, fortunately, did us no harm. Fourteenth Day. Off again, with a steady wind from the N. We discovered a low range of hills ahead. Three leagues further on, towards the 102 right, we found three small islands and a large one mid-stream. We stopped there just long enough to build a hut, in which we deposited our provisions for the return trip, giving to the island the name of La Provision. We continued our journey, with the thermometer at 90 desr. Passed the rivers Cacanova and Soterio, leaving both oh the right. At 5 P.M. passed the rapid of Guajara-Merim, marked with 1 deg. of latitude, on my map. The rocks which form this rapid project two yards above the surface of the water. The declivity is one yard. At high water this rapid no longer exists. We made a halt here ; having travelled six leagues. To form a correct idea of these rapids, it would be necessary to have in view the details that are in my possession. But as this is merely a brief sketch of my journey, I shall content myself with explaining what the rapids really are, in order that they may not be confounded with the cataracts. The rapids are pro- duced by a barrier of rocks running east and west, across the river, thus forming a link between two low hill-ranges flanking both banks. The impetuosity of the current has opened up several tortuous channels, with sharp points of rock sticking up here and there. The navigation thus becomes dangerous. The risk is lessened by choosing the deeper channel, in which, at high water, the rocks are completely covered and the rapids disappear. The currents in both the rapids and cataracts are very violent and jerky. For the ascent of the river it is necessary to tow the boats or to unload them, except in the case of flat-bottomed steamers, drawing little water, and capable of carrying a cargo of fifteen to twenty tons. There is abundant wood for fuelling. Steamers might pass through any of the channels, but not the canoes, which are lightly and badly built, without rudders and scarcely a ton burthen, liable at any moment to turn over or be swamped. The beds of the rapids might be considerably improved by clearing away the fragments of rock and debris, deposited by the river — which become hardened through amalgamation by means of the oxide of iron — leaving open only three channels with locks, without which they would be impassible, as I will show hereafter. log Fifteenth Day. Started from the island of Guajara-Merim (signifies little), which ought to be called Ipecacuanha Island, from the abun- dance of that plant. A quarter of a league further on, near a cape formed by that island, we encountered the rapid of Guajard-Guassli,, which signifies great, and is represented in the first plate of the map I have commenced. This rapid is formed by banks rising four yards above the level of the river. The banks are flat and thickly wooded. When we passed, the channel to the extreme left was dry, We, therefore, chose the second, which had but little water in it. Our boats were much tossed, but we had no further mishap than breaking the rudder of the boat in which the Vicar travelled. At noon the thermometer marked 90 deg. To the south-east we saw the hill-range which helps to form the two above-mentioned rapids. The mosquitoes exist here in large numbers, and occasioned us considerable annoyance. At three leagues' distance we found the rapid of Bananeira, which forms the second plate of my map. It takes its name from the plantain-tree, which they call " banana." The boats had to be unladen for the passage. We made the descent between two parallel rock-cliffs> six yards high, through the fifth channel, which contains less water than the others. The decline is four yards in fifty. Many veins of silver exist. To the left there is a good channel, almost dry, which, if cleaned out, would be the best of the lot. In the centre stands an island abounding in butua, a medicinal plant. Sixteenth Day. We proceeded for a quarter of a league between rocks, the current running rapidly. This part is called the " tail-end of the rapid." At a distance of two leagues we met with a low range of densely-wooded hills, at the foot of which we found the rapid of Pdo Grande, or the " huge stick," shown on the third plate of the map. The Yata Grande here empties itself, to the left of another spur of hills, adjoining the former, with a direction from east to west. At the mouth of this river are 104 rocks fifteen yards high, covered with beautiful foliage. The width equals 105 yards, and the depth SJ fathoms. The water is clear, and the banks attain a good elevation. For a league we were urged along by strong currents, and passed the rapid, which is formed by rocks twelve yards high. The decline is 3 yards in 150. The central channel is the best, but has a bank in the middle which makes it dangerous. To the north there is a thickly-wooded hill, and to the north-west a higher one is visible, situated on the river Beni. Various hieroglyphics and a cross between two pillars have been inscribed upon the rocks. Thermometer rose to 90 degrees ; depth, 7 fathoms ; current, 2 leagues an hour. It would be very easy to open a channel along the left bank. At a league's distance is the rapid of Lages, named after the laja stone. This forms the fourth plate of the map. This rapid is formed by a bank running east to west. The bed drops 1 in 50. Descended the principal opening without any occurrence of importance. At two leagues the Beni flows in. We stopped at the island in the north of this river. Latitude, 10 deg. 25 sec. south. RIVER MADEIRA. Seventeenth Day. After measuring the width of the Mamore — there 1,000 yards, with 7 to 8 fathoms de^th — I proceeded to do the same with the Beni, divided into two arms, and found that one of these measured 800 yards in width, and 7 to 15 in depth; and the other 450 yards across, and 7 fathoms deep. Both these branches have a northerly direction, the Mamore losing its course to the N.N.W. We started thence, and at a short distance to the left we met with a stream. After proceeding for about 600 yards we perceived a party of Caripuna Indians, consisting of twenty men, eight women, two girls, and nine children. The men lived in a hut called a malocca, oval in shape, about 25 yards long, 15 wide, and tolerably lofty. There are little compartments all round, each of which is tenanted by a man, whose furniture consists of a hammock, a 105 bench, a stick, and a small basket to hold the feathers of the birds he kills in the chase. All held darts in their hands. They responded most stiifly to our salutation ; but their hostile tone changed when we made them presents of cutlasses {machete), knives, fish-hooks, glass beads, liquor, and other articles. They laid aside their weapons, and treated us with genial fami- liarity. The vromen live in another malocca, apart from the men. The former take charge of all the domestic utensils. Nothing of this kind is to be found in the dwellings of the men. The greatest cleanliness prevails. The chief, who was named Pach{i, had but little real power, as unbounded licence existed through- out the community. All dispensed with the use of clothes, and wore eye-teeth of the wild boar as ear-rings. The women have their lower lips pierced, through which they pass a topaz- coloured languet eight inches long, made of a resinous sub- stance. They also pierce the cartilage of the nose, inserting into the aperture two small feathers, arranged in the form of a moustache, and paint the forehead scarlet, the lips and eye- brows black, and stain the rest of the face with the juice of the aromatic myrrh-tree. Bracelets are worn on the upper part of the arm, the wrists, and the calf of the leg ; and, out of decency, they cover the private parts with a leaflet suspended by a string. Moreover, the men biiid with a cord the part which constitutes their sex, the same operation being performed with their dogs. Dead bodies of men are buried in the houses ; those of women are interred in the fields. In the delta formed by both rivers there are several islands and loose rocks forming the Madeira rapid, named from the vast quantities of wood (nnadeira) deposited on the banks of the river when swollen. This is done to such an extent that the wood-heaps appear like hills. The river doubtless takes its name from this circumstance. The last-named rapid is repre- sented in Plate 5 of the Map. The headland between the two rivers could not be better adapted as a site for a large town. Almond-trees of a superior quality abound ; also two kinds of excellent cocoa, vanilla, and other equally-valuable productions The scenery, too, is appropriately beautiful. At the close of 106 the day we placed on a suitable spot a cross, -which the Vicar blessed, and we directed our prayers to the Supreme Being, to the accompaniment of Nature's solemn music in those silent regions. The ceremony produced feelings of lively pleasure in the minds pf the indians. Eighteenth Day. At daybreak, to the same weird music, the Vicar celebrated the Holy Sacrament of Mass. The wild indians were present, and looked on with cold indifference at some of the august rites of our religion. After this ceremony I left the rest of the party, and, with four men in a canoe, I made for the immense cataract of the river Beni. We paddled four leagues up-stream, closely observing on our way some spacious and fertile localities, beautifully situated, and free from inundation of the river. The latter is here five hundred yards wide, and nine to twelve fathoms deep ; current a league and a half ; thermometer, 95 deg. As it rained in torrents, we were obliged to halt at an island opposite the hills we perceived two days ago. Nineteenth Day. The day broke with a serene and clear atmosphere. At two leagues we encountered the rapid which corresponds with that of Bananeira, in the Mamore. The rocks are of the same height, and bar the river from east to west. The western channel which appears to be the best, was, at that time, without water, and we noticed that it might easily be cleared by means of mechanical appliances. The declivity does not exceed four yards in fifty. In the centre the current cannot be stemmed, but this is easily feasible near the banks, by towing the boats ; or else a circuit by land might be made. Mosquitoes swarm here. Thermometer, 9.5 deg. ; current, 2 leagues ; depth, 10 ' fathoms. After sketching the rapid, we returned to our bivouac of the night previous. Numerous rocks and strong currents exist in this, as in the rapid of PSo Grande. One league lower there are other smaller rocks and currents, similar to the current of Lages. Thus it arises that the prolongation of the hill-ranges cause the rocks and little hills to coincide in 107 both rivers. We landed in order to fraternize with some wild Indians we met. The band, under the leadership of a chief named Sond, consisted of eighteen men, eight women; and six young persons of both sexes. I gave orders that my canoe should accompany the rest of the party as far as the malocca of Pachu, while I made my way thither on foot with the Indians. T met the Vicar there, who was delighted because the natives had expressed to him their wish to become Christians, and build a town; and had offered to collect a large population for the purpose. We made them a present of a dozen tipoyes, or women's dresses, and some implements, which made them pleased with our visit. In return, they regaled us with a repast, the details of which I must omit for want of space in this work. At nightfall I received information that the Trinitarios, Indians of my crew, had exchanged their provisions for birds and other articles, intending, no doubt, to desert when the night was well advanced. I avoided such a misadventure by sleeping on the canoe, without pretending to know anything of their ' intentions. Twentieth Day. We set sail at 6 A.M., and, after going a quarter of a league, encountered the Madeira rapid (Plate 5), thus named for the reason I have already stated. This rapid drops three yards in about three hundred. The rocks are lower than in the pre- ceding ones. There are several channels, easily accessible for every kind of craft. The river is half a league wide. Ther- mometer, 90 deg. ; current, a league ; depth, 12 fathoms. At two leagues is the rapid of Misericordia, which is shown in Plate 6 of the Map. There is an is.land in the middle, and a good channel. It has taken its name from the danger arising from the impetuosity of the current. The least want of care might cause the boat to be whirled helplessly along, and engtdfed in the rapid of Bibeirdo, a quarter of a league further down. This rapid, represented in Plate 7 of the Map, drops 4 yards in 150. As the channels are very dangerous, it is necessary to unload the boats and drag them overland about 10« 450 yards, as far as the river Eibeirao, in which, by means of a strong sluice-gate, a good lock might be constructed. The advantages of this arranffement need not be demonstrated here. The granite rocks are also low, with a direction from east to west. Twenty-first Day. We went in search of the wild Indians who live there, and at half a league's distance we met an apostate woman called "Mariana," who has acquired considerable celebrity and influence among these her untutored subjects. She was with her father, her husband, and sister, and was also surrounded by eight men, three women, and four young persons of both sexes, among whom was a blue-eyed, rosy-cheeked girl. I presented Mariana with an under-garmeat, dress, blanket, necklace, and aretes; to the others I gave knives, fish-hooks, cutlasses, necklaces, medals, etc. We treated them to some liquor, which they accepted with the greatest complacency, manifesting much gratitude and friendliness. I met there a Brazilian, who had been wrecked a few months previously, with two companions. They vrere going down-stream in a canoe. I engaged him as my guide for the rest of the journey. Twenty-Second Day. We had mass, at which Mariana and her followers were present. I proposed that they should form a town at the con- fluence of the Beni ^vith the Mamord, whither they were about to make a move. They readily acquiesced to the suggestion, and offered also to collect many more nomad Indians who frequented the neighbourhood. We remained among them the whole day, during which time our men were employed in twisting hawsers and caulking the boats. Twenty-Third Day. The Vicar, who had prolonged the journey more than he anticipated, parted from us -with much mutual regret. The boatmen bid each other farewell, as if they never expected to see each other again alive. The crew of Trinitarios wanted to 109 abandon me, fearing imminent perils. They urged, by way of excuse, tbat they had no provisions; but, by persuasion and energetic measures combined, showing them the commercial benefits accruing to them, I succeeded in getting them to go on; and to make them more contented I gave them some of my provisions. After the much-regretted separation, we set sail at 7 A.M. At a quarter of a league we had to unload the canoes, in order to tow them through a bad ' channel, by reason of the impetuosity of the waves and the strong and boisterous current. With larger vessels this inconvenience would no longer occur. Mariana journeyed down in a kind of canoe, made of bark, and offered to wait for us at some conve- nient halting-place on the river. We continued, for a league, to encounter violent currents. This makes the navigation very dangerous, when performed in canoes such as ours. The de- scent is barely eight yards in more than a league, including the channels and gradients which are there to be found. The forest, which is dense and lofty, affords an abundance of cacao, almonds, ginger, and other productions. , There also exists rock-crystal, veins of silver, and some stones which, by their brilliancy and other qualities, indicate an approximation to the diamond. Moreover, the eye everywhere meets with birds so beautiful and of such rich and varied plumage th^t, added to all the other objects which constitute the enchantingly-magnifi- cent scene, these make one forget the inconvenience and danger which beset the path of the navigator. Thermometer rose to 105 deg. ; the sounding-line marked fifteen fathoms, and the current was about two leagues. We made three leagues during the whole of that day, and passed the rapid of Periquitos, or paroquets, which offers no danger. It forms Plate 8 of the Map. Halted at a malocca of wild Indians, near a stream called Pocel, and met Mariana with eight men, eight women, and four boys. Still on Bolivian territory. Twenty-fourth Day. Another half-league down -stream brought us to Araras (Plate 9 of the Map), named from a species of parrot.* * Called by the Brazilianj Farabas, and Cogues by tho BoliTians. 110 The descent is two yards in about three hundred. The channels are good. On the coast of a large island hereabouts dwell other Indians, also under the rule of Mariana. The current runs at the rate of two leagues. The lead-line- marked fully twelve fathoms, and the thermometer stood at 95 deg. The wind here blows steadily from the north. For six leagues we followed a very safe passage, as far as the confluence of the river Abuna, which flows in on the left ; latitude, 9° 40' ; width, 140 yards ; depth, 3 fathoms. Above the point of confluence there reside some Indians, whom I proposed to visit on my return ; also two numerous and brave tribes on the Abuna. There are roads from them to the Beni and the last-named rapids. Twenty-fifth Day. We left Abuna with the south wind, and at four leagues we encountered the rapid of Pedemeira (Plate 10), so called from the abundance of flint. The bed drops four yards in about three hundred. A good passage already exists, which might easily be improved by cleaning. There is a small hill close by, and at a short distance are others of greater elevation. The rocks are also low, the direction being chiefly north-east, after- wards changing to east. Three leagues further lies the rapid of Paredfto (Plate 11). Before passing it one leaves on the left a spur of little hills, tolerably high, and others, lower and more isolated, can be discerned. This rapid has but one large channel, though there are several narrow passages. Its current is very swift, running between rocks of granite and flint, which rise perpendicularly to a height of thirty feet. The descent is three yards in about one hundred and fifty. There dwelt there a batch of indians, composed of five men, six women, and five boys. One of these was of a reddish copper-colour, and was called " Bermejo" (Rufus). We made them some presents, and they did not leave us all night. I recognized the fruit of the guarana, wliich abounds here, and is largely used by the Brazilians, Ill TWENTYrSIXTH DAY. Off again with a stiff brt^eze from the south. After proceed- ing a league we were obliged to stop, as the fog was so dense that we could not see the rocks and other obstacles in the way. But it soon cleared up, and, continuing our journey, we came to the confluence of a small arm of the river. This stream branches off just above the rapid, having its source amongst the little hills which we had previously seen, and which run parallel with the river. We shaped our course eastward towards the Bolivian frontier. From the top of one of these hills we descried immense prairies, covered with patches of long grass. At the foot of this height the site is well-adapted for building a town. At a distance of six leagues we found the rapid of Tres IrmSos, so called from three detached hills of the same size which rise in the vicinity. The current is rapid for about a league, but not dangerous ; rate, about six miles an hour ; depth, 15 fathoms ; thermometer, 95 deg. Here the river Mutum- parana empties itself, flowing out of Brazilian territory. Having sailed up it for six leagues, I came across an Indian named Masini, with five men, nine women, and six children. Below the rapid there is a large quantity of rock of the kind used for ^grindstones. After going three leagues we stopped for the night at a pretty sand-bank. The rapid of which I have just spoken is represented on Plate 12 of the Map. Twenty-seventh Day. In the space of six leagues the channel of the river, which has a depth of three feet, is very good. This distance takes in the rapid of Girao (Plate 13). Here the boats have to be drawn on shore, and dragged overland for some six hundred yards. The river flows due south, dropping five yards in about live hundred, and the bed can easily be. cleaned out, so as to render it convenient. The cliffs are thirty-six feet .high, and, along the Bolivian frontier, there are several detached hills. I left the canoe, which was manned by theTrinitarios Indians, and proceeded with only that of the Caniohanas, so as to be in light marching order. 11:^ Twenty-eighth Day. From Girao to the rapid of the Caldeirao do Inferno (Plate 14) are two leagues. We passed it, rowing through the middle channel, but with great danger, in consequence of the frail nature of our boat, and the exposure to the violence of the currents, while the waters in large volumes broke across the canoe, and caused it to rock violently. One of these concussions nearly engulfed us in the waves. There are channels running all ways ; and thus, when the waters meet, the foam is lashed up by the winds. Near the coast of Bolivia, there is a good channel, which can be vastly improved. For eight leagues we continued, without any fresh occurrence of importance, as far as an island which we called Encallados (stick fast), as the river here' widens considerably, and contains many sand-banks. In some parts the sounding-line shows four fathoms. Twenty-ninth Day. At six leagues from Encallados island is the rapid of Mor- rinhos (Plate 15), skirted by a low hill-range. The rocks attain an elevation of eighteen feet. The declivity is three yards in about nine hundred. The channel might be improved. The thermometer rose to 95 deg. ; current, 2 leagues; depth, 10 fathoms. After navigating for five leagues we came upon the rapid of Theotonio, which is the largest of all, and is shown on Plate 16. Thiktieth Day. The rapid of Theotonio is produced by three parallel lines of granite and flint rocks, with a height of forty-five feet. They cross the river with a west-south-westerly direction, and termi- nate at the foot of a hill situated towards the Bolivian frontier. In the first line the bed drops five yards, three in the second^ and two in the third. The boats have to be drao-o-ed overland for about four hundred and fifty yards. Many veins of white and blue soroche are found here. At a league we passed the rapid of Macacos (Plate 17), which signifies monkies. It does not present any difficulty. The rocks are low, and the current equal to that of Guajara-Guassii. 113 Four leagues further on is the rapid of Santo- Antonio (Plate 18), which has a good channel on the Bolivian side. The decli- vity is the same as in the preceding rapid, and the rocks are lower. Thermometer, 100 deg. ; current, 2 leagues ; depth, 10 to 15 fathoms. From there the river for a league has a good channel, and would admit vessels of a large draught; but the only advisable craft in which to traverse the rapids would be flat-bottomed boats of 15 to 20 tons, as I have already inti- mated. Note. — The Beni rapid is shown on Plate 19; that of Abuna on 20, and Yata Grande on 21. RETURN JOURNEY. We re-crossed the rapids of Santo Antonio and Macacos without any special incident, although the water had risen considerably. Slept at Theotonio. Second Day. By 10 A.M. we had passed the canoe and baggage over the Theotonio rapid. Meanwhile, we stopped to shed a tear on the graves of the unfortunate Don Tadeo Gorriti and his compa- nions in misfortune, who, were murdered by the Indians. We placed a cross upon the spot, with an appropriate inscription. After bidding a last long adieu, we continued our journey, and slept on an island two leagues before Morrinhos. Thermo- meter, 94 deg. Third Day. Re-passed the rapid of Morrinhos, and stopped for the night at the island of Encallados, near the mouth of the river Yaci- Paran^, on the coast of Brazil. This part is inhabited by 114 twenty indians, twelve women, and eight children. Amongst these I recognized the assassins of Gorriti and his companions, FoxJHTH Day. After sailing four leagues we stopped and entered an Indian malocca. The inmates were four men, an equal number of women, and three children. We were informed that at no small distance from where we were then conversing there ex- isted a numerous horde of Indians, on Bolivian territory. The Maparana flows in here. An abundance of sarsaparilla grows in this vicinity ; also ipecacuanha. We pushed on, and slept at the entrance to Caldeirao. Fifth Day. We passed the rapid of that name in two hours, through the channel on the Bolivian side. Spent the rest of the day in Girao, after having dragged the canoe, and rejoined our crew of Trinitarios iadians. Sixth Day. Traversed the rapid of Tres Irmaos, and halted at the mouth of the Mutumparana. Seventh Day. Ascended the Mutumparana, in search of Masini, to obtain from him some pitch, of which there is an abundance. We asked him to conduct us to the people of Abuna, as he had rela- tions there, having married amongst that tribe. Eighth Day. Returned with as much pitch as we required, and fell in once more with our party. It rained hard, and we were obliged to stop for the night. Ninth Day. Reached Paredao. Crossed that rapid by towing the canoes. The river Ferreiros flows in at this point, off the mouth of which we passed the night, We were visited by indians, 115 Tenth Day. Passed Pederneira, Tiauling the canoes on this occasion also. Slept at the mouth of the Abuna. On the way we passed three springs of water, bubbling up from an iron-lode, which extends for fifty leagues. Eleventh Day. I proceeded with a single canoe to Abuna, where several hieroglyphics are cut on the rocks. At four leagues distance stands an abandoned malocca, and, after having passed it, we encountered, at three leagues, a very bad rapid, which has a declivity of six yards in about one hundred and fifty. I learnt that the tribes I meant to visit were three days' journey off and, as provisions were becoming scarce, I gave orders that wa should return the following day. Twelfth Day. We continued our journey as far as the raalocca of Tupl and Guaycurti, where there are fifteen men, twelve women, and an equal number of children. We slept there, after paying them many compliments. They proposed to accompany us at day- light, and would have sacrificed us in cold blood had we not been forewarned. Thirteenth Day. Passed the rapid of Araras, and slept at the place where Mariana was. Fourteenth Day. Passed Periquitos ; heat 105 deg. Slept at length at Kibeirao. Fifteenth Day. Eecrossed this rapid, and slept at the spot where we said "Goodbye" to the Vicar, llfi Sixteenth Day. Hauled up the boats, and occupied ourselves the rest of the day iu caulking them and twisting ropes. Seventeenth 'Day. Eepassed the Madeira Rapid on ihe Bolivian side, the boats being laden as usual, but they had to be towed, as the current was strong, and no progress could be made with the oar. By mid-day we reached the headland which marks the confluence of the rivers Beni and Madeira, and amused ourselves till night- fall with reconnoitering the country, which could not be better adapted for the site of i< ^arge city. It offer:; all the advantages which render life agreeable ; is free from innundations, and has a splendid anchorage. Cacao of the best quality grows in pro- fusion, as well as almonds o'' a superior kind, vanilla, nutmeg, ■ and other valuable productions of the vegetable kingdom. Eighteenth Day. On this glorious day we commemorated the anniversary of Ingavi with repeated volleys of musketry, and unfurled our national banner. My son, who had been among the Indians, now rejoined us. He orought with him two of them with their sons, who were desirous of paying a visit to the people of the ilojos district. With great pleasure, I permitted them to join our party, and supplied them with some articles of clothing. Recrossed the rapid of Lages by rowing, and that of Pao Grande by towing. By noon we reached Yata Grande. I devoted the remainder of the day to exploring the -"iver as far as the rapid in it, which correspond.s with those of Bananeiras and the Beni. An easj' ascent might be made by keeping near the right bank. We retraced our steps, and slept at the confluence of these rivers. Nineteenth Day. Retraversed Bananeiras, the canoes being towed. On the island, near the falls, I collected a little butua, which is held in high estimation by the Brazilians as an excellent dissolvent for 117 briiised blood and internal hfEinorrhage, caused by a blow. We pushed on, and slept above the falls. Twentieth Day. Repassed the Rapids of Guajara-Guassu and Guajarf-Merim. In the former we found that the channel we had selected on the down-trip was, on this occasion, dry. We accordingly chose the third, after having picked a large quantity of ipecacuanha. Twenty-first Day. Journeyed eight leagues." Removed the provisions from Store Island, and slept at the place where the tiger assaulted us. Twenty-second Day. Arrived at Elvira, where one of the Canichanas died of a disease called bicho, or Tnal de voile. Twenty-third Day. Reached the Playa del Sur (south bank) without any occur- rence of importance. Twenty-fourth Day. Proceeded as far as the junction of the Itdnes, and halted two leagues higher up. Twenty-fifth Day. Slept at Posancos. Twenty-sixth Day. Reached the place in which we encountered the four Chaco- bo3, and in the middle of the night there arrived a canoe laden with provisions sent by the Vicar, which we would not accept, as we already had enough. Twenty-seventh Day. In the Mayosa stream, which rises in the territory of the Chacobos, we saw the canoe Illampu, from Exaltacion, run aoTound. In the stream Tanrupi is the landing-stage of the 118 Guarayos Indians, who are wild and have strange custonas. Slept at the mouth of the Matucar^. Twenty-eighth Day. Reached Navidad, where the Guarayos had killed, with arrows, two Brazilian carpenters who were going down stream for wood in the canoe lUampu. Twenty-Ninth Day. Arrived at Exaltacion, all well and in good spirits. Nothing further of any importance occurred than the events above recorded. U9 OBSERVATMS. [CONCEUSION.] The rapids may be divided into three classes : — 1st, the dan- gerous ones ; 2nd, the moderate ; and, 3rd, those in which, at high flood, the violence of the current disappears. They may be arranged in the following order : — I. — Hauling overland is hecessary at Ribeirao, Girao, and Theotonio. II. — Towing is requisite at Guajara-Guassti, Bananeiras, Pao- Grande, Madeira, Araras, Pederneira, Paredao, Caldeirao, Mor- rinhos, Santo Antonio. III. — Of the third class are Guajara-Merim, Lages, Misericor- dia, Periquitos, Tres Irmaos, Macacos. Note. — The channels vary according to the volume of the waters, and it is necessary to use some caution in selecting the best channel for the ascent and desceftt. It results, then, from the above, that the navigation of the Madeira is feasible, if the Government adopts decided measures for its accomplishment. The obstruction offered by the rapids is not an insuperable obstSicle, since it may be remedied by dredging and excavating the channels, or, at worst, by opening a roadway, where the foregoing expedients cannot be adopted. The use of steamers is absolutely necessary, so as to render the transit of the rapids both safe and expeditious. The importance of this is incontestable, since it would throw open the portals of Bolivia to foreign commerce and the Atlantic, 120 thereby introducing all the elements of civilisation, power, riches, and aggrandisement. It seems as if Nature strove to hide her richest treasures in those unfortunately pent-up regions. Here are combined an amazing fertility of soil, lofty timber-clad moun- tains, rich in vegetable productions and different species of beautiful and valuable wood, wealth in minerals, fishing, and the chase — in short, not only the conveniences and comforts of life, but also the means of gratifying the most capricious taste. Our statesmen, instead of thinking about Arica or Cobija, should direct all their energies and attention to the navigation of the Madeira. This done, Bolivia would need nothing else to make her successful, and secure an existence, which, unpleasant as it may be to confess it, has been, and, without such measures, will be, precarious. The roads of the departments of Santa Cruz and Cochabamba are short, for the capital of the former is distant only two days' journey from the port of Cuatro Ojos. The same may be said of the roads to Guarayos and Chiquitos. From the capital of the latter department to Chapar^, or Chimor^, is only a distance of fifty leagues. There is another road from Loreto as far as Chapar^ or Todos Santos. A.11 these roads can be improved at trifling expense. A good road might, also, be opened up from this department to Reyes, by way of Mosetenes, branching off to the province of Yungas. The work would be easy, divided into three sections, by which means operations could be simultaneously carried on. The first section would comprise the distance from Chulumani to Ebenay; the second from that point as far as Mosetenes; and the third from this, or Magdalena, to Reyes. The workmen of the two last-named sections could be paid a real a day, and beef-rationsj for which great facilities exist in the country by reason of an abundance of cattle. But I must conclude. I miist omit many remarks which would seem out of place in a diary. Nor have I referred, in all cases, to the course steered, since it is sufficiently indicated on the Map that I have prepared for the purpose, a copy of which I have presented to the Minister of War for preservation in the 121 Topographical Department ; another copy to the Prefect of the Beni ; and a third to Senor Ildefondo Villamil ; reserving one for myself. I shall be glad if, one day, the Government, swayed by patriotic administrators, resolves to extend to this fluvial question the requisite protection, which will confer on the Republic a service of the highest practical importance. Jos]5 Agustin Palacios. La Paz, 12tli April, 1849. 122 APPENDIX. NAVIGABLE RIVERS AVHICH FLOW INTO THE JIARAXON, RISING IX THE CORDILLERAS OF PERU AXD BOLIVIA. By Thaddeus Haenke, Member of the Academy of Sciences of Vienna and Prague, etc., etc. The provinces of Peru, conquered and occupied to the present by the Crown of Spain, form but a small part of the South American continent. They stretch along the Pacific, but with a breadth which is small when compared with that of the continent. For the most part, they extend no further inwards than the Cordilleras or Andes. The abrupt slopes of the snow- peaks on the eastern frontier ; the wild and rugged nature of the roads, without exception; the labyrinth of dense forest, spreading over immense tracts, as yet but little known ; — these, then, are the causes and obstacles which have hitherto impeded the natives from penetrating and exploring the interior of these extensive regions. If to this be added the risk anions the wild and uncultivated tribes who inhabit those tropical climes, the insupportable hot season, the inconvenience of innumerable insects and other poisonous animals, and the multitude of the mighty and impassable rivers, one cannot wonder that, for the most part, in Peru its conquerors restrained the march of pro- gress at the Cordillera. Certain it is that, in consequence of the very serious impediments already referred to, and the greed 123 of conquest so dominant in the past, but now reduced, if not entirely extinguished, there have remained whole tracts un- known amongst the Spanish and Portuguese possessions. Of this class are — the Gran-Chaco, the district between Paraguay and Chiqultos, and that which stretches from Mojos and Apolo- bamba as far as the banks of the river Amazon and TJcayale ; and many others between the rivers Purlis and Huallaga, and as many more on the north bank of the river Amazon, between the river Orinoco and the mountain-range of Quito and Santa Fe de Bogota. The rivers, numerous and great, which descend from the vast barrier of mountains throughout their whole extent, have, when explored, been employed as the only means of intercourse, being the outlet opened up by nature — a wilderness of woods and inaccessible mountains. Assuredly the names of Chiquitos, Moios, and Apolobamba would have been buried in; tbrgetfulness if the rivers Paraguay, Grande, and the Beni had iiot 'opened up a path to the early Conquistadores, bearing them on their waters to remote regions, isolated and most difficult of access by the other route. Without the least doubt, among the districts of Perii, those of Chiquitos, Mojos, and Santa Cruz are those where the Spanish rule has most ad-^nced eastward ; but these conquests did not follow the line of the Cordillera from west to east, but from south to north, by means of the long and toilsome ascent of the Conquistadores, vid the river Paraguay ; and, many years after the pioneer establishments were formed, attention was first turned to the means of communication with the towns of Alto-Perii, by way of the rivers Beni, Mamor^, and very many others which ramify through an extensive intervening area. Here the astute zeal of the Portuguese, aided by the transit of the different rivers and the intermediate tracts, which are less rugged than those of the Cordilleras, advanced their posi- tions along different roads. This they did, not to populate and cultivate the lands lying between the western frontier and the coast of Brazil, but merely in order to check the ;^i^rogress of the Spanish arms in this quarter, and prevent them from extending their conquests further into the interior of the contident. The above-named provinces, as well as very many more, situated tothe 124 east of the cordillera of the Andes, have, in fact, a common mis- fortune, however fertile the soil or valuable the productions. This misfortune, this great drawback to the happiness of the nume- rous tribes who inhabit those districts, is the celebrated moun- tain chain of the Andes, a range unique of its kind, not only as regards the elevation of its peaks, but also the enormous extent they traverse with the main body and the manifold lateral off- shoots. It would seem that nature had reared this barrier to divide the inhabitants of the eastern and ivestern slopes, giving to each a varied proportion of its bounties. It might be said of this immense mountain-region what Horace says of the ocean : Nequidquam Dsus pbscidit Prudens ooeano dissociaLili Terras. Thus it happens that, what with the infinite dangers accom- panying the transit, the absolute impossibility of exporting the produce of those eastern tracts, the difficulties, which, if over- come, would augment the cost of carrying to such an extent that the conveyance\even to the towns of Alto-Perii would equal the intrinsic value of' the commodities, — svich being the case for the most adjacent towns, it would be quite impracticable to effect the exportation to Spain, by reason of the great distance between the localities where tjiese articles are produced and the seaports where it is intended Ihey shall be shipped ; also, on account of the excessive cost. F^om the provinces of Mojos and Chiquitos, goods destined for Lima will have to traverse a double spine of the Andes, two hundred leagues by land, and six hundred more by sea. If for Buenos Ajres, in addition to the Cordilleras — so wide-spread in the neighbourhood of Jujui— exports will have to travel overland for at least six hundred leagues. Except for precious metals and minerals, it would not pay to undertake mule-Back traffic at exorbitant rates. These unavoid- able obstacles ,xo the western outlet for the districts already alluded to, arid others lyiirg east of the Cordilleras, naturally exert a restrEifming influence on the inhabitants. They regard the cultivE).tion of their most valuable crops Avith feelings akin to apathy ; for, in view of the difficulties of egress, they content themselves with raising merely a small quantity, necessary for 125 their domestic use; whereas, were substantial inducements afforded them, they might supply the, wants of other lands. But these difficulties of exportation are, in reality, only apparent, depending only on the mode of exit adopted ; for, by changing the route, the inconveniences spontaneously disappear; the natives, no longer deterred, will receive a new incentive to cultivate their fertile lands; Church and State will win new conquests, and firmly cement previous acquisitions ; while com- merce will be invigorated with produce gleaned from an immense area. Nature appears to have intended that South America should be surpassingly great in every respect. Here, only, towers up the; giant mountain-range of the Andes ; here sweeps down the unique Amazon and the river Plate; here extend forest and prairie almost illimitably, and without a parallel in other coun- tries. Amidst a seeming chaos of riches, Nature herself appears to indicate most markedly the best-adapted and shortest lines of communication between th.e vast provinces thrown together in this monstrous fragment of the world, whereby the varied and abundant productions may find an outlet. The numerous rivers, all of them rich and navigable, which descend from the Cordil- lera, are the fluvial pathways which Nature herself has opened up, defying mountain-chains and penetrating forest-depths; thus providing in the wilderness a highway for the benefit of mankind. The Amazon, or Maranon, the chief river of the globe, is the principal channel, and is, without exaggeration, a fresh-water sea, stretching a distance of about a thousand leagues, almo.st across the continent, and communicating with all the provinces of Perti — which extend from the equator to the eighteenth degree of south latitude — by means of a network of navigable streams, that, at length, flow into the main body of waters. And here it is desirable that I should give a brief account of the principal navigable rivers which, from the highlands of Peni, flow southwards, along the eastern slope, to the Amazon. Going from east to west, from the celebrated Angostura del Pongo de Manserriche, the first river is the Huallaga, the upper- most cascades of which are in the vicinity of Lima, not far from P l26 tkos'e of the Maranon itself— lat. ll'deg. south. One of its principal branches descends from the mineral springs of Pasco to the east of Lima, through a wide and craggy fissure, as far as the town of Guanuco ; then passes under two peaks of the Andes — Chinchao and Cochero. Here, in June, 1790, when I made my first entry into these parts, I discovered the subterra- nean entrance at its confluence with the river Chinchao. The Huallaga now turns northward among the various spurs of the Andes, through the tract called Lamas, enriched with the waters which descend from the mountains of Humalies, Moyobamba, and Chachapoyas. All of these abound in excellent specimens of Peruvian-bark. In lat. 7 deg. south, the river contracts, forming an angostura or pongo, similar to that of Manserriche, but much shorter. From there it serpentines among the moun- tains, through a plateau, as far as its confluence with the Maranon, near the missions of Laguna, in latitude 5 deg. south, and about 77 deg. longitude west of Paris. This river was descended, in the year 1560, by Pedro de Ursoa, who was despatched by the viceroy of Perd, Don Antonio Hurtado de Mendoza, Marquis of Canete, in search of the famous gold-lake of Parrima and the town of Manoa del Dorado, The celebrated missionary, Samuel Fritz, often ascended this river on his way to Lima. The second — taking them in the said order — is the river Ucayale. Its size and volume of water rival those of the Maranon, at their point of confluence. For this reason, it has been confounded by many writers with the Maraiion itself. It issues from the lagoon of Chinchaicocha, in the pampas of Pombon, thirty leagues eastward of Lima, in latitude 11° 30'. This important river waters an extensive tract, and is one of the largest in the whole continent. I have traced it to its source, and have made many explorations on this river during my journey from Lima to Cuzco ; and, also, in the year 1794, when travelling from the rivers Yauli, Jauja, Mayoc, Mantaro, Canaire, Tambo, Pachachaca, Apurimac, Paucartambo, Vilcanota, as far as the Partido de Cailloma, belonging to the municipality of Arequipa, and in the east as far as the confines of the Partido Carabaya. Flowing from a narrow portion of the Cordilleras, 127 this river is swelled by the'Perrene, and, in latitude 8 deg., by the Pachitea. It meanders through the wide pampa of Sacra- mento, and on amidst a labyrinth of thickets and countless streams, which all pay their watery tribute. The banks are peopled by numerous tribes, whose names alone would compose quite a vocabulary, and who are eager for religious instruction. After traversing an immense distance, it joins the Maranon close by the missions of San Joaquin de Onaguas, in south lati- tude 4° 30', and longitude 78° west of Paris. Descending from this mission, at distant intervals abng the same bank, the rivers Yavari, Yutay, Yuruta, Fefe, and Coari empty themselves. They are of secondary importance, it is true, but light craft can, at all seasons, ascend them a long way — £is far as the confines of Alto-Perii. In longitude 63 deg. west, and latitude 4 deg. south, we find the river Punis, there known as the Cuchivara. It is a river of the first order, and, according to the reports of the Indians, is equal in size to the Maranon. Its true source has not, as yet, been ascertained. However, I have sufficient data whereby to fix this spot, with toleraUe accuracy, somewhere between the Cordillera de Vilcanota and the eastern portion of the Carabaya mountains, from which issue many important rivers, most pro- ductive in gold. The wild tribes of Indians, such as the Chuntachitos, Machuvis, and Pacaguaras, dwelling to the west of the mission of Apolobamba, told me, in October, 1794, that about ten days' march westward from the Beni, flowed a vast river, through a prairie clothed with trees of a colossal size. They explained most intelligibly that, on the banks of that river, lived some of their own tribe, and many others; also, that this river — named in their language Mano — was longer and wider than the Beni, with which it was united. Since, in the' space between the rivers Ucayale and Madeira, no river of this magnitude discharges itself, I am strongly inclined to believe that the Purtls and Mano are one and the same, and that the discrepancy in name is due to the different tribes inhabiting its banks within the wide area as far as its con- fluence with the Maranon, each of which tribes gives it another name. 128 Fifty leagues eastward from the aforesaid river the well- known Madeira empties itself, in longitude 60° 30' west, and latitude 3° 30' south. It takes the name of Madeira from the logs of wood and trees which it washes down during the in- undations from November to April. It rises in a wide plateau of the Andes, from the heights of Pelechuco, Sorata, La Paz, as far as the inmost of the Spanish dominions, and the Cordillera of the Chiriguanaes. I will describe this river at some length, by reason of the great space over which its ramifications extend, the safety while navigating on its principal tributaries, its proximity to the Mar del Norte, and the fact of its affording the shortest line of water-communication with the Amazon and the Portuguese settlements, as well as the Spanish colonies. The internal cordiUera, or that of the Andes, which, from Quito, with but slight exception, has a direction from north- west to south-east, before arriving at the boundaries of the province of La Paz, in 16 deg. south latitude, first makes a considerable bend, or detour, and, thenceforward, varying its original direction, inclines more to the east, thus receding from the coast-line, and penetrating deeper into the continent. This variation has the efiect of producing, in a short space, the spot, or marked line, which determines the direction and course of the waters on both sides — I mean to say, from north to south — and the two common watersheds of the whole continent, namely, those of the rivers Amazon and La Plata. This important line faUs somewhat further than the eighteenth degree of south latitude, and separates the waters of the two sides according to the declivity and the fall which the hills present on the north or the south. And the river Amazon receives now, by the inclination of the cordillera to the eastward, not only the waters of the west, but also of the south, and, moreover, a large portion of the eastern rivers. The principal branches which form the river Madeira are — ^the Beni, the Mamord, and the Itenes, most of them navigable from but a short distance downwards from their sources. Of the three, the Beni is the most easterly; and is formed by numerous very large rivers, which unite with it within a short distance from each other. They together form a good body of 129 ■waters. All flow down from the heights of the cordillera, and their basin extends from Pelechuco, Suches, Sorata, Challana, Songo; La Paz, and Suri, as far as even the province of Cocha- bamba. The easternmost is the Tuche ; then comes the Aten, the Mapiri or Sorata, the auriferous Tipuani, Challana, and Coroico, which flow together. * With another, of the name of Ch\ilumani, are united the Tamampaya, the Solacama, the La Paz, Suri, Canamina, and the river Cotocajes, the most easterly of all. I had the good fortune to explore the sources of all these, in my frequent voyages; and, on the 22nd September, 1794, 1 embarked on the river Tipuani, descending by it to the Beni, being piloted by the Indians as far as the missions of Apolobamba and Mdjos to the town of Keyes, near Isiamas and Tumupasa. The journey did not take more than four days, on account of the rapidity of the current. This river takes its course along the same fissures of the cordillera, which for a considerable distance, is depressed in height. There are many bad places, but the dexterity of the Indians in the management of the craft removes all apprehensions of danger on the part of the navigator. Below the town of Reyes, on the west, it also receives other rivers, such as the Tequeje, the Masisi or Cavinas, etc. From its junction with the Mamor^ in about 10 deg. south latitude, they both lose their names, and their combined waters are known as the river Madeira. In the prairies this river flows quietly and majestically along, present- ing no danger whatever. It contains islands of considerable size, and its breadth in several parts exceeds a quarter of a league. It abounds with an amazing quantity of fish of all kinds, and various amphibious animals, but particularly the crocodile, or caiman. Both banks are thickly wooded with lofty trees, and are peopled by a large number of uncivilized Indians, such as the Cavinas, Pacaguaras, Bubues, Torromanas, Nahas, and Tobatinaguas, on the west ; and, on the east, by the Bulepas and many others. These are now beginning to be visited by the missionaries of Apolobamba. Communication might easily be established between the Beni and the Mamor^, by way of the river Yacuma, which rises in the vicinity of Reyes, and, from that town, crosses the wide intervening 130 prairie, flowing from west to east, and uniting with the Mamore near the town of Santa Ana. The descent is so gradual, and the elevation ahove the sea-level so slight, that in sixty leagues the ground drops scarcely twenty feet. The second, or intermediate branch, is the Mamore'— a river in no respect inferior to the Beni — which divides the extensive tract Mjoining the missions of M6jos into two considerable portions, coursing between them with a direction from south to north. The river Chapar^ — including the rivers Paracti, San Mateo, Coni, Chimord, Sacta, and Matani — descends from the Cordillera and mountains inhabited by the tribe of Yuracarfe in the vicinity of the town of Cochabamba. The Rio Grande, which divides the province of Cochabamba from that of the Charcas, lying along another branch, into which are discharged the rivers of the mountain-range adjoining the town of Santa Cruz ; and, from the confluence of both, in latitude 16 deg. south, the common stream receives the name of the Mamor^. The Mojos Indians ply on this river, against the cun-ent, with fruit and other products of the country, more than a hundred leagues, from the town of Exaltacion to the outskirts of Santa Cruz. The same year, 1794, in October and November, I ' pursued my investigations from the river Beni to the Yacuma, and then continued my course on the Mamord and Rio Grande as far as the port of Fores, near Santa Cruz. The third, or most eastern branch, is the river Itdnes, rising in the low hiU-range, in the centre of Brazil. These hills have been but little noticed by the Portuguese, in whose possession they are. The river It^nes flows from east to west. Its waters are more transparent than those of the Beni or Mamord. At a short distance up this river stones are to be found which are as precious as diamonds in the lowlands of the Beni and Mamord The volume of water is less than in the two rivers mentioned. It passes by the fort of the Prince of Beira, one of the most advanced outposts of the Portuguese, situated , in latitude 12 deg. south, and longitude 60° 30' west of Paris. The river unites with the Mamore almost in the same latitude, but half a degree westward of the said fort. These are the three principal branches of the celebrated xiye? 131 Madeira, the most available of all the channels I have referred to for communication with Spain by way of the Atlantic, and as an outlet for the productions of all the countries east of the Andes. It is to be lamented that the inhabitants of the richest and most fertile of the Spanish possessions in this continent — which are placed as above indicated — should be forced to adopt, with stupendous efforts, a roundabout way, vid the settlements on the Pacific coast, for the export of its wealth, battling with all the elements in a most toilsome ascent ajjainst the current of rivers, which, in the neighbourhood of the Cordilleras, descend with greater impetus and violence at every moment of the navigator's course up-stream. Then there is the transit of the Cordillera itself, so fatal to the wretched Indians, who, accus- tomed to the mild temperature of their native tracts, and with no stouter covering than a thin blouse, suffer in that frozen atmospheric region all the privations and rigour of a Siberia or Kamschatka. On the other hand, however, by following an easterly course, and letting their barks float down with the favourable current of the rivers, without anything else to do than to steer them, the journey would be expedited to a con- siderable extent. Condamine says, in his travels, that the Cordilleras may be regarded as a, hindrance, equal to a thousand leagues by sea. With the exception of the lands of Guayaquil, situated on the western declivity of the Cordillera, the eastern slopes and pla- teaux of the Andes are the most productive portions of South America. All the gold — and that, too, of the best quality known, — is the exclusive product of these regions, and I venture to say with confidence that there is not a river or any broken ground in that locality which is not provided with this metal, although the labour of its extraction may, in some parts, be 'greater than in others, success, of course, depending on the depth, in an inverse ratio. The cocoa of Apolobamba, M6jos, Yuracare's, and all the forest tract stretching from there to the banks of the Maranon, far surpasses that of Guayaquil in quality. The superior kinds of quina, or cascarilla grow exclusively on this side of the Andes. What shall I say of the cotton, the extensive fields of indigo, the 132 balsam of copaiba, sarsaparilla, China-root, gum-elastic, and most fragrant vanilla, all of which are prodigally produced by Nature in these countries? The dense, lofty forests on the banks of all the rivers contain woods of remarkable strength, beauty, and divers colours, not only useful for the construction of houses, but also of vessels of considerable burthen. Many of the trees distil odorous resins and medicinal gums. There is also gathered in those parts a species of bark called corteza de cluvo (clove-bark). The outer portion of it resembles the cinnamon, but it is much thicker and darker, on account of the age which the trees attain here, than that of the East Indies. The odour and taste are those of the clove. The communication with Perd by this portion of the river Amazon and the Atlantic would be a powerful agent for the advancement in civilisation of those countries. This result would be brought about by the growth of traffic with other nationali- ties, which they now lack. The missions would acquire new vigour, and win fresh triumphs, while, at the same time, they would open, up tracts as yet unknown. If the products of Peru be conveyed along this route, and Spain would have the acumen to form some establishment or station in one of the mouths of the river Amazon, what advantages would accrue to navigation, with an immense saving of distance ; what difference in a voyage from Spain to the mouth of this river — which "takes about a month — when compared with the other route round Cape Horn to Lima, oreven Guayaquil ! At least three thousand miles would be saved on the round voyage out and back. The Indians are excellent boatmen for river-navigation. A few men wiU briskly and dexterously handle a launch of fifty or sixty feet in length ; nay, even vessels of greater capacity ; or even a ship. They are indefatigable as sailors, although called upon to work for months at a time. They hardly need to carry provi- sions, for everywhere there is an abundance of fish, tapirs, deer, monkeys, and other animals, which may be killed with bow and arrow. Such game will provide all that is necessary for the sustenance of the party. Moreover, there is a vast quantity of wild fruits and roots, which can from time to time be gathered. The sole difficulty in realizing this project consists in the 133 tenacious opposition of the Portuguese, who most jealously guard what they consider to be their rights ; but, no sooner would a permanent peace be established than these obstacles could be removed. Further, the powerful influence of France might be brought to bear in making the rivers Amazon and Madeira a common fluvial highway for the two nations who are mutually interested in the adjoining districts, and between whom this immense continent is divided. I have no other object in proposing this arrangement than the earnest desire I entertain of contributing, to the best of my ability, to the happiness and welfare of the Spanish people, whose generosity has furnished me the means of visiting those remote countries, and to utilize for their benefit the experience which I have gained during long and arduous journeys in those parts. No- body can assert that the proposed project is a chimera, the hallucination of a theorist, or an idea impossible of execution. I, indeed, confess there are difiiculties in the way, but this is only due to the opposition of the Portuguese. Let but the Government bestow on this subject the attention it merits, and, I doubt not, means will be found to induce the Portuguese nation to relax somewhat the rigour of its pretensions to the absolute monopoly of the river Amazon, and many others which have their origin within the Spanish dominions. France, whose enthusiasm in protecting the various privileges of mankind — that mighty power, the ally and friend of Spain, is now insisting that the Cape of Good Hope shall be thrown open as a common harbour and halting-station for all nations tracing with India. In like manner she might, by her influence, moderate the assumptions of the Portuguese, and cause the banner of Spain to be unfurled upon the waters of the Amazon and Madeira, by virtue of international right. I offer myself as the first to attempt this new route, to make this journey to Spain by way of the above-named rivers, if the Government will provide me with the necessary passports, letters of recom- mendation, and the astronomical instruments specified in the annexed list, so that I may push on without delay or annoy- ance at any of the fortified positions which the Portuguese have taken up along both of these rivers. This preliminary journey 134 would serve the purpose of exploring and methodically detailing the whole course of the river Madeira, its depth, the dangerous parts, the tributary streams, and the precautions to be observed while navigating upon it ; also to obtain some idea as to the general features of the country through which these rivers flow the characteristics of the Indians, and the nature of the products. The east winds^wkich, according to the statement of Condamine, in his " Travels," prevail from October to May- favour the up-voyage against the current in both rivers, although in the interior of the continent the south and north are the dominant winds, which, in the rainy season, alternate uniformly the one with the other. The two accompanying plates illustrate the interesting geogra- phical features. No. 1, particularly, which shows the new set- tlement of Santa Cruz, projected by his Excellency, will serve to explain the rivers formed by the Madeira ; while No. 2 will show the continuation of its course as far as the confluence with the Amazon, and the latter to its outlet into the sea. In view of the close relation subsisting between the mission and the subject of which I have just been treating, I take the opportunity of making some remarks as to the actual condition in which they now are. Since the conquest of both Americas the religious feeling of the kings of Spain has ever regarded the conversion of the numerous tribes of docde inhabitants as a subject of the highest importance. They have generously ex- pended large sums of money in these spiritual victories, without any pecuniary recompence, but with a success and progress which varied at different periods of their history. Now-a-days — ■ since the enthusiasm which in former times incited masses of mankind to aid in the triumph of religion has evaporated — one cannot regard these missionaries as fulfilling the nature of their office in the true sense of the word. They sway with temporal as well as spiritual power, and are the foremost agents in the acquisition or loss of political alliances with the uncivilized tribes, and, thereby, of the countries and provinces which these tribes inhabit. From a populous and well-directed mission increased by the neophytes, grows up a town, and an assemblage ef \o^ns ponstitvites a province, It is an erroneous p ricciple 135 and one which has caused much mischief, that any friar whatso- ever is fit to engage in the work of converting infidels and preaching the Gospel. The scrupulous and successful discharge of the duties of the ministry unquestionably requires men of superior talent and education, great firmness of character, and extraordinary prudence. They should be men unmistakably destined by Providence for this work — men blest with a con- stitution of uniform strength, so as to withstand the heat of the torrid zone, the stings of insects, and the immoderate rains of the season ; and a good memory, in order to acquire with ease the multifarious dialects of the Indians. The chief subject engrossiag the consideration of a missionary should be the study of man — that being who exhibits himself under more varied aspects than the chameleon — and here, more especially, of man in an uncivilized state, as he was made by the hand of Nature, unrestrained, without other law than that of brute force, agitated by violent passions, the only outlets for his actions, — in a word, one of the brute creation, with only the outer resemblance of humanity. None of the qualities referred to shine forth in the most earnest of the religious brethren of San Francisco, who now assist in this object at an immense expense to the State. They persuade themselves that they have fulfilled all their obligations in hur- riedly reading the customary prayers every day. The love of riches makes them forget all the striking rules as to poverty which their order prescribes. They derive incredible benefits from the simplicity and hard work of the converts, whom they fetter with tasks which they could not perform if they were beasts of burden. In their temporal government they rule despotically, being ignorant of all knowledge which apper- tains to economy and industry; and fortunate it is if they only stop at this, and do not commit faults which moderation must hush up, out of respect for their ofiice, and because there is no doubt that a religious body is worthy of the first considera- tions when it observes the rules of its institution, and when its members do not abuse their privileges. On the contrary, the Indian, guided by these masters, although for thirty and more 136 years, has learnt nothing else than to recite like a parrot a few prayers which he cannot understand. He has not acquired the slightest sound idea of the Supreme Being, that should be the principal aim and end of their actions. Their industrial arts have remained the same as they were previous to the arrival of their converter ; and, after so many years, the Indian remains as much a Gentile as before, and, at length, casting off the chains of an imprudent servitude, he returns to the wilderness. This is the deplorable state of the missions in charge of these evangelisers. This perverse conduct is the chief cause that, since the expulsion of the Jesuists, not only has nothing advanced, but also very many of the missions have ceased to exist. Instead of advancingjthey have fallen off; and the Portuguese proceed, step by step, occu- pying more territory, and approaching nearer every day to the Spanish dominions. The happiest era of the Spanish missions, situated on both banks of the river Amazon, was towards the close of the last century. The celebrated missionary, P. Samuel Fritz, a German Jesuit, endowed by Providence with aU those gifts which adorn this ministry, penetrated, in the year 1686, to the towns of the uncivilised tribes of this river. He reduced, in a short time, the numerous nations of the Omaguas and Cocamas. By his example, the neighbouring tribes — the Yurimaguas, Aisuares, Banomas, and others — voluntarily assisted, drawn merely by the kind treatment whereby he taught them to live with just laws and a policy till then unknown to them. By this method he triumphed, in a few years, in all the countries which run from the river Napo as far as the mouth of the river Madeira, without any other arms [than those of his gentle manner and singular prudence. With the wide-spread triumph over so many tribes he secured a large tract of country, under the proper dominion of the sovereign of Spain, on both banks of the river Amazon. But it is a cause for regret to see the actual condition in which they are. From the mouth of the river Madeira, situated, approximately, in longitude 61 deg. west of Paris, they have been retiring and abandoning these missions, as far as that of Pebas, which is, in reality, the last of the Spanish possessions, ■ situated in longitude 71 deg. This gives a loss of territory of 10 deg. in longitude, which, reckoning even in a straight line, would be equivalent to two hundred leagues, and the Portuguese have advanced theirs as far as San Pahlo, near Pebas, including the conquest of all that territory and the rivers which communi- cate with Peru. I am convinced that the Portuguese had greater luck in the selection of the religious emissaries whom they destined for these conquests — such as Carmelites, men of differ- ent, education and behaviour to the inhabitants of Peril, and who regard with patriotism the interests of their country. The learned Jesuit, Samuel Fritz, not only had talent, pru- dence, and aptitude for such conquests, but also, at the same time, was well informed in mathematics and astronomy. He was the first who executed a map of the whole vast course of the river Amazon ; and Condamine, the Parisian academician, did not hesitate to insert it, by way of comparison, in the same map which accompanies his work. Some superficial acquaintance with geography and the use of the needle should be the con- comitants of the evangelic office, so as to enumerate to the governor of the district, together with a relation of his adven- tures, the hill-ranges, rivers, lagoons, and other characteristic features of those localities in which he exercises his apostolic functions. But these most useful branches of knowledge are ignored by almost all our missionaries, and it is difficult to find one, here and there, with enough education to keep a rough diary of his travels. The organisation and regulation of the, missions on the banks of the rivers Amazon, Napo, Ucayale, Pur{is, Madeira, Beni, and in the part further north than the Mamor4 is a subject which, by all means, merits the attention of the Government, by reason of the proximity of the Portuguese, who take advantage of the least want of vigilance, aggrandizing themselves with new tracts, and rapidly approaching the Spanish dominions. The measures which the Government might deem opportune refer particulary to the disseminating colleges (colejios de propaganda) of Quito, of Ocopa, and that which has recently been founded in the town of Tarata, in the province of Cochabamba. i3S Such is the information I am able to give your Excellency on this weighty and important question, in virtue of the office which was kindly conferred upon me on the 11th of March last. May God protect your Excellency many years, Thaddeus Baenke. Cochabamba, April 20th, 1799. To Don Francisco de Viedma, Governor in command of this Province. FINIS. THE RAPIDS OF THE RIVER MADEIRA. EXTEACT FROM THE "EXPLORATION OP THE VALLEY OF THE AMAZON, MADE UNDER DIRECTION OF THE NAVY DEPARTMENT, ' BY WILLIAM LEWIS HERNDON AND LARDNER GIBBON, LIEUTENANTS UNITED STATES* NAVY. PART II. By lieutenant LARDNER GIBBON. WASHINGTON, 1854." BUNLDP AND CO., PRINTERS, NEW STREET, CLOTH FAIR, E-a 18 74. THE RAPIDS OP THE RIVER MADEIRA. Sept. 19. — A turn in the river brought us in sight of high land to the north. The negroes blew two cow's horns, and shouted at the sight of it. Laying down their horns, they paddled with a will to their own musical songs, by which they kept time. We met a north wind, which created a short wave as it met the current of the stream, increasing its speed. The land has become low on both si4es, and is swampy, with signs of being all flooded in the rainy season. At 9 a.m., thermometer, 82"; water, 81°. At 3 p.m., thermo- meter 87° ; water, 80°. We passed an island rocky and wooded. Flowers bloom and decorate the richly green foliage on the banks. The current is quite rapid, and we dash along at a rate we have not been able to do before on the Mamorfe, passing the mouth of a small river — Pacanoba — ^which flows from the Brazils, and through several islands. We came alongside of one of them for the night. Within the death-like, mournful sound of the " GuajanJ^merim " falls, our raw hides were spread, hair side up, as table and chairs. While the men made a fire I was listening to the roaring waters, and thinking what sensible fellows those Cujavabos Indians were to nm from it The night was star- light, but the mist arising from the foaming waters below us was drivei^ over the island by the north wind, which prevented my getting the latitude. Small hills stood a very short way back from ^he islands in Brazil. The land appears to be above the floo(i|s Ipn both sides. As we are free from mosquitoes at night and i the savages do not inhabit our little island, we sleep soundly. SlPT. 20. — By daylight we were up and off, pulling across to 142 the Bolivian shore to the head of the falls. We were iu doubts how our boat would behave in the rapids. After taking out part of the baggage, which was passed over a rocky shore below, the boat was pulled through without any difficulty. The channel was about fifty yards wide, with very little fall ; the whole bed of the river was divided by wooded islands and black rocks, with large land small channels of water rushing through at a terrible rate. A steamboat could, however, pass up and down over this fall without much trouble. We embarked, and found our little boat, which had been named " Nannie," gliding beautifully over the short waves formed by the rapid motion of the water. The rocks are worn away in long strips, and cut up into confused bits by the action of the river constantly washing over them. On the islands quantities of drift-wood and prairie-grasses are heaped on the upper side. One of these islands occupied the middle of the bed for three-quarters of a mile in length. We follow the channel down on the Bolivia side to its low end at a rapid rate; when we came to the foot of the first fall we looked back wp hill, to see the number of streams rushing down, each one contributing its mite to the roaring noise that was constantly kept up. We saw no fish, but last night met large flocks of cormorants flying iu a line stretching across the river, close to the surface of the water ; this morning they came down again. These birds spend the night over the warm bed of the Itdnes, and return here in the day to feed. No sooner had we cleared these falls than we found our- selves at the head of another rapid, more steep, called " Guajara- guassu." Pedro took us to the upper end of a path in the woods, on the Brazil shore, where Don Antonio had transported his cargo overland, three hundred and fifty paces, to the foot of the falls. His large boats were hauled through the water by means of strong ropes rove through large blocks. Our cargo was landed, and while Richards, with one man , was engaged carrying the baggage down, I took the boat over oil the Bolivian side, and we hauled her three hundred yards oveii the rocks and through the smaU channels, down an inclined shelf of about twelve feet fall. The main channel is in the middle of the river, with waves roUed up five feet high by the swiftness of the current, through which a steamboat could pass neither up nor down. 143 The river cuts its way through an immense mass of rock, stretching across the country east and west like a great bar of iron. The navigation of the riverMamor^ is completely obstruc- ted here ; the river's gate is closed, and we see no way to trans- port the productions of Bolivia towards the Amazon except ■ by a road through the Brazilian territory. On the east side of the river, hills are in sight, and among them a road may be found where a cargo might pass free from inundations. The navigable distance, by the rivers Chapard and Mamor^, from near the. base of the Andes at Vinchuta, to Guajara-merim falls, is about five- hundred miles. We anxiously pulled across towards the baggage, as the division of a party in this wild region is attended with great risk. This day's work gave us some little experience in the new mode of navigation. The sun is powerfully hot, but the negroes strip themselves and ease the little boat gently down in the torrent between rough rocks. Don Antonio's advice was of the greatest importance to us in the choice of a boat and men. The long canoes of Bolivia would have been broken to pieces in this first day's travel among the rapids. There are no paths through the wilderness by which we could travel in case of an accident, and rafts we had seen enough of at the head of the Madre-de-Dios. Embarking our baggage, we continued under a heavy thunderstorm, which came up from the north-east and whirled over our heads, sending down heavy drops of rain. The banks of the river are twenty feet high. The country on the Bolivian side is level, and there the lands are overflowed half the year ; but the Brazilian side is hilly ; the ridges appear to run at right angles with the river, which passes over the toes of the foot of them. The whole country is thickly wooded with moderate-sized forest trees. The river below these falls is occasionally three-quarters of a mile wide, with a depth of from twelve to thirty-six feet. The current is rapid as we leave the foot of the falls, gradually decreasing in speed until the boat enters the backed water which is danamed up by the next ridge of rocks which thwart the free passage of the river. Sept. 21. — At 3 p.m., thermometer, 88° ; water, 81°. The south wind blew all last nighty accompanied with rain. Early 14-i this morning we arrived at the head of " Bananeira " falls, dis- tance eight miles from the upper shelf. I find Pedro useful in pointing out the ends of the paths over the land cut by Don Antonio ; his services as pilot, however, are not to be depended upon. Titto seems to be perfectly at home in the management of a boat among rocks, and assists me most of the two. The cargo was landed on an island near the Bolivian shore. The path led through bushes and trees down hill, near four himdred yards. The work of transporting the boxes amidst the annoy- ance of swarms of sand flies was harassing, and with difficulty Eichards could make the ill-natured member of the crew carry as many boxes as he did himself. The river flows windingly ; the baggage could be sent straight across, but the boat had to be dragged, towed, lifted, and pushed through the rough rocks and rushing waters for over a mile ; this was trying work ; the heat of the sun was very great ; the negroes slipped, and it was with great difficulty at times they could hold the boat " from being carried from them by the strength of the waters as they heavily pass through the choaked passages; The men stand easing down the boat up to their- necks in water. The rocks are only a few feet above the water level ; they are smoothed by the wearing of the water and drift wood. It is not easy for the men to keep their feet under water. These negroes are good men for such service — ^they crawl among the rocks like black snakes. Bananeira falls take their name from quantities of wild banana trees formerly discovered here, but we saw no traces of them. The fall is about twenty feet ; the islands, are generally very low, a few feet above the present surface of the river; all the rocks, and a great part of the islands are overflowed in the rainy season; large heaps of drift-wood lodge against the trees. On the highest rocks we found pot-holes, worn down to the depth of eight and ten feet by the action of small pebbles, put in motion by the current as it passes over and whirls down, boring into the solid mass of coarse granite. These pot-holes are generally half-full of stones, the large stones on top ; gradually descending towards the bottom, they were smaller, until at the very last they were com- posed of bright little transparent, angular-shaped stones, less in 145 size than a pin's head ; among these the diamond-hunter looks sharp. Some of these pot-holes are three feet wide at the mouth, decreasing in edge size uniformly towards the bottoiji. When we gained the foot of these falls, over which it is utterly impossible for a steamboat to pass at any season of the year, we had to ascend a channel on the Bolivia shore for the baggage. Mamord lay by a part of it as watch, while tlxe rest of the party were on the other side of the island ; we were nearly ex- hausted ; the men had nothing to eat half a day, and the dog looked thin and sick. There were no fish, birds, monkeys, or Indians to be seen, nor were the men successful in finding castan- has, Brazil nuts, which they very much needed, as they had nothing to eat but their allowance of farinha. The negroes were very tired, but I observed the life improved them ; they looked stronger and were getting fat. This was a great relief, for we were the worse for wear. I was kept in constant excitement lest some accident should happen to our boat, or that an attack would be made upon our baggage party by the savages. At 3 p.m., thermometer, 85° ; water, 81°, and less muddy; dashing over the rocks appears to filter it. The boat was carried along at a rapid rate by the currenj;, which boiled up and formed great globular-shaped swells, over which the little boat gaily danced on her homeward way. The satisfaction we felt, after having safely passed these terrible cataracts, cheers us on. We were nearly the whole day getting two miles. We were prevented from the danger in our path to proceed at night. The boat was fastened to the Brazil bank, and, after supping on a wild goose Titto was fortunate enough to shoot, we slept soundly until midnight, when we were suddenly aroused by the report of a gun. The men were lying by a fire on the bank, near a thick tall growth of grass which skirted the large forest trees ; Kichards was close by me ; I heard Titto's voice immediately following the report, saying " The devil ; " we were all up in arms. Titto said he had shot at a tiger which was approaching the men as they slept. Mamor^ had been faith- fully prowling in the woods, keeping close watch over us while we all slept ; because he gave the men some trouble in the boat they laid this plan to put our trusty friend to death. Richards 146 found the dog shot in the heart, close by the heads of the men, four of whom -were in the secret, while Pedro and the Indian were sleeping. We placed great confidence in the watchful- ness of Mamore; from him we expected a quick report of savages or wild animals. With him on watch we slept without ■ fear, as the Indians were more afraid of the bark of a large dog than of the Brazilian soldiers. From what we had seen of the men we" were convinced they were a rough, savage set, who would put us to death quite as un- ceremoniously as the dog. They expressed an impudent dissatis- faction when I ordered Titto to put a man on watch, and keep sentinel all night. We lay till daylight with our pistols prepared for an attack from any quarter. The negro murderers on the highways of Peru are more desperate and unmerciful than either Spaniard or Mestizo ; so it is with a half-civilised African negro. At daylight I was particular to let every man of them see my revolver. We kept a close watch upon them both by day and by night. They had, for some reason or other, unknown to us, taken a dislike to Richards, who never gave them an order ex- cept when he was left on shore to attend the portage of the baggage. They were under an impression we were ignorant of what they said when speaking their own language, as Titto and Pedro spoke to me in Spanish. On one occasion, after the loss of Mamor^ I overheard the iU-natured one, after Richards spoke to him about tossing water into the boat with his paddle, say to the rest of the crew, " I don't know whether I won't put a ball through that fellow yet, by accident !" After which I had no confidence in any of them, and told Richards our safety remained in constant watchfulness, and the good condition of our fire- arms. Sept. 22. — The river below Bananeira falls is seventy-eight feet deep and half a mile wide, passing through rocks and islands, where we found the wild Muscovy ducks. With a rapid current we soon reached the mouth of the Yata river, a small stream flowing from the territory of Bolivia, not navigable for vessels larger than a ship's boat. At " Pao-Grande " rapids, the country is hilly on both sides, and wooded with lai-^e trees, from 147 which feet the rapids derive their name. These rapids are about five miles fiom those above, with a fall of fifteen feet in one hundred yards. The boat was carefully passed through narrow channels among rocks fourteen feet high. Don Antonio came up over these falls, when the river was flooded, by keeping close along shore ; he fastened the upper block of his tackle to large trees, or heavy rocks, and by hard pulling, inch by inch, dragged his boat along. No steamer could pass up or . down ' '' Pao-Grande." At 9 a.m., light northerly breezes ; thermometer, 81° ; water, 81". Two miles below brought us to Lages rapids. ' The boat was kept in mid-channel, and paddled with all the might of the men ; we passed through the rocks at such a swift rate hats had to be held on. This was a glorious passage; the little boat seemed to fly through a channel that might be passed by a steamboat. A bark canoe lay by the Bolivian shore. Our negroes blew their horns, which brought four savages and a black dog to the bank. Two of them wore bark frocks, and two were naked — real red men. As we floated along by the current, the following conversation took- place between the savages and the negroes : — Savage : /' Oh ! " Negro in the bows : " Oh ! " Savage : " Venha ca '' — come here — very clearly pronounced. We told thein to come to us and they ran away, while we paddled slowly on. These Indians are of the " Jacares " tribe ; they were soon paddling after us fast. We waited but a short time ; their swift canoe was constructed of one piece of bark, twenty-feet long, and four feet beam. The bark was simply rolled up at each end and tied with a vine from the woods ; between the sides several stretchers, four feet long, were fastened to the edge of the bark by small creepers, and a grating, made of round' sticks fastened together with creepers, served as a flooring, which kept the bottom of the canoe in shape when the India,n stepped into her. Two young men, dressed in bark dresses, sat in the stern, or one end, with well made paddles. On the other end sat two naked women, each with a paddle lying across her lap. As they came alongside, amidships sat an old chief with a basket of yuca, a bunch of plantains, a large lump of fitch, and several small pieces of superior quality, called by the Brazilians "breu." The 148 Indians use It for securing arrow-heads, we find it serviceable in sealing our bottles of fisb, or fixing tbe screw to our ramrod. Besides which the old man brought one richly green parrot for sale. We bought him out with knives and fish hooks. One of the women was good looking, the figure of the other was some- what out of the usual shape. On being presented with a shav- ing glass they expressed great pleasure, and one' after the other looked as far down their throats as they could possibly see by stretching their mouths wide open. Their greatest curiosity seemed to be to explore the channel down which so much of the results of their labour had passed. When they saw their dirty half- worn teeth, the holes in their ears, noses, and underlips, one of them poked her finger into her mouth through the lower hole, and brutally laughed. They wore long hair behind, and clipped it off square over the forehead, which gave them a wild appearance. The women were very small ; their figures, feet, and hands resembled those of young girls. Their faces proved them to be rather old women. They appear cheerful, laughing and making their remarks to each other about us, while the men wore a surly, wicked expression of face. One of the young men became very much out of temper with Pedro, because he would not give all the fish-hooks he had for some arrows. The old m^n seemed very much excited when he came alongside, as though he half expected a fight. He was a middle-sized person and chief of all the Indians in his tribe who inhabit the Bolivian territory. He represents his tribe as few in numbers and scattered over the country. Like the women, the men have great holes in their noses and under-lips, but -nothing stuck in them. We supposed they were in undress on the present occasion. The chief enquired the names of the different per- sons, and wanted to kn6w which was the " captain " of the party. The women begged for beads and assumed the most winning smiles when they saw anjrthing they wanted. We invited the chief to accompany us to the next falls and assist us over. He shook his head, pointed to his stomach, and made signs with distressed expression of face that he would be sick. He was then told we had more fish-hooks and knives ; if he brought yuca and plantains, we woijld tra,de ^t the f^ls, To this he con- 149 sented, but said his people and the Indians below were not friendly, and that the enemy generally whipped his people. Three miles below Lages we came to the mouth of the Beni river. This stream resembles the Mamor^ in colour and width ; but while the latter has a depth of one hundred and two feet, the former has only fifty-four feet of water. Temperature of Mamord water, 81° ; of Beni, 82". Near the mouth of the Beni there are islands. The whole width of the river is about six hundred yards ; the junction of these two streams forms the head of the great Madeira, which is one mile wide. In the month of October, 1846, Senor Jose Augustin Palacios, then governor of the province of M6jos, explored the falls in the Mamord and Madeira by order of the Government of Bolivia. We find the map of Senor Palacios a remarkably correct one. He ascended the Beni for a short distance, finding a depth of seventy feet of water to the foot of the falls, beyond which he did not go, but returned and continued his course down the Madeira to the foot of its falls, when he retraced his steps to M6J0S by the way he came. We have accounts of many falls on the Beni river from the province of Yungas down to the town of Reyes, between which falls the river is navigated by the Indians in wooden balsas. The Beni has never been explored throughout its length, but with the falls above Reyes, and those seen by Senor Palacios near its mouth, which appear to have prevented him from ascending this stream on his return, we have reason for saying the Beni is not navigable for steamboats. The , outlet for the productions of the Mch province of Yungas is to be sought through the country from the gold-washings of Tipuani to the most convenient point in the Mamore between Trinidad and Exaltacion. The distance from the latter place to Reycr, on the Beni, is not very great. From the general conformation of the bottom of the Madeira Plate, we are of the impression, tlint the road would have to be cut high up towards the base of the Andes, so as to clear the annual floods. The Mam^ord, therefore, is the only outlet for the eastern part of the department of La Paz, as well as a great part of the department of Santa Cruz. The ridge of hills and mountains at the base of which the Beni fiows, stretching from the falls of the M<:^,deira to the source of 150 the River Madre-de-Dios, or Purus, separates the Madeira Plate from. the Amazon Basin, and divides the department of the Beni from the Gran Paititi district in Brazil, which extends north to the Amazon river. Paititi, it may be remembered, was the name given by Padre Reyello to our favourite dog, lost on the road from Cuzco to Lake Titicaca. "We are about to pass out of the Madeira Plate, having arrived at the north-east corner of the territory of Bolivia. The lands about the mouths of the Beni and Mamore' are now inhabited by wild Indians ; some parts of them are free from ifiundation. Cacao grows wild in the forests. The head of the Madeira contains a number of islands. Here we find the outlet of streams flowing from the Andes and from the Brazils collected together in one large river. Water from hot springs and cold springs, silvered and golden streams joining with the clear dia- mond books, mingled at the temperature of 82" Fahrenheit. The Madeira river flows through the Empire of Brazil, and keeps the northerly course pointed out for it by the Mamord The first falls we met were close to the junction of the Mamor^ and Beni, called " Madeira," three-quarters of a mile long. It is difficult to judge the difference of level between the upper and lower surfaces of the river. As the falls are shelving, and extend a great distance in leng-th, the distance we run during the day is not easily estimated. At one time we go at the rate of fifteen miles an hour, and then not more than one mile in half a day. This fall is not less than fifteen feet. Large square blocks of stone stand one upon another in unusual confusion. The boat was paddled through for a quarter of a mile, and by passing half the baggage out over the rocks she was slided and floated through narrow channels close along the eastern bank. The whole bed of the river, as we stand at the foot of the fall and look up, is a mixture of rough rocks lying in all positions on the solid foundation of granite, surrounded by foaming streams of muddy water. While we loaded our boat again at the foot of the falls, Titto discovered some Indians approaching us frohi the woods. They came upon us suddenly, from behind a mass of rockSj with bows and arrows in their hands. Don Antonio had warned me before I left him to be on my guard when the 151 savages came up tn this way. He said when they send women and children to the boat in advance, then there is little chance of a difficulty with- the men ; but when the women and children are kept in the rear, and the men come with bows and arrows in hand, the signs are warlike. We were, therefore, prepared. We, however, recognised our friends, the Jacares. An old chief brought a woman along loaded with roast pig and yuca. She carried a deep, square willow basket on her back, suspended by a strap of bark cloth round her breast. The chief and his two men were dressed in bark cloth frocks and straw hats, while the only thing on the woman's back was her basket. One hand bore an earth em pot, which she also offered for sale. Titto traded with the party, and they gradually became much more easy in their manners towards us. For the want of an interpre- ter I could not make out what customs were observed among them. These Indians bear the name among Brazilians of great thieves. They, however, appeared to be perfectly satisfied when we left them with ^the reasona,ble exchange. The passion ex- pressed by one at Pedro for not giving him all his fish-hooks for a few arrows rather leads us to believe that, if they had out- numbered us, they would have been troublesome. We gave them no opportunity to treat us unkindly, for we were exceedingly polite, and so well armed with all, that they very justly acted their part in a spirit of reciprocity. There is great difficulty in knowing how to meet the savage. Treat him as a civilised man and hie better feelings are touched. It won't do to approach him indirectly, letting him see that, while willing to trade, there is a prudent readiness for a fight. They took a polite leave of us by shaking hands all round. We introduced the custom, which they seemed to like, though the stiffness of their elbow- joints proved they did not understand the matter. They saun- tered up the rocky bank on the sand to where they had left their bark canoe at the head of the falls, and we went dashing on through the rocks in the rushing current. Sept. 23. — 'The river was seven hundred yards wide, and one hundred and five feet deep. We passed " Misericordia " rapids, or swift current, but not a 152 ripple was to be seen. The channel was clear of rocks, and we soon came to the Riberiao falls, which are l^wo miles long. The baggage was carried five hundred yards over a path on the east bank. Don Antonio transported his vessels on wooden rollers here. I think he said he was nearly one month getting up these two miles. The men were anxious to see whether they could not pass this fall with the boat in the water. They launched her down one shoot of twenty feet nearly perpendicular by the rope painters in the bow and stern. Our boat was beginning to give way to the rough service, and as she leaked, it became necessary to lighten her load ; then, too, the men began to fag. After they succeeded in getting the boot safely over a dangerous place, the boxes had to be carried one by one. The heaviest box was that in which were planted three specimens of M6jos sugar-cane. I had just cut my first crop, and found the plants were doing well, when it became necessary to relieve our little boat, and we were unwillingly obliged to leave behind what might have proved of importance to a Mississippi sugar-planter. Our baggage was taken out and restowed a number of times. Once the boat was on the top of a rock, at another half under foam. The sun was scorching hot and we had the full benefit of it. When the water is thrown on the bare rocks it hisses as if poured upon hot iron. The sides of the pot-holes are ridged like the inside of a female screw ; some of them are nine feet deep. The water in them is quite hot ; one of the negroes seemed to be fond of lowering himself into the pots of hot water ; his face had rather a dis- tressed expression, and while standing with his head above the edge of the pot, he looks as though undergoing a hot water cure. The river appears to have worn away the rocks less than above. It flows over a solid mass, in which there are many g-utters cut, from four to six feet deep, of the same width. Our canoe safely passed through one of these by the ropes, as the crew walked along the level rock. There were numbers of these gutters cut parallel to each other. The rock was worn as smooth as glass. After descending some distance in the middle, we found the channels so large and dangerous, that we must gain the east side of the river ; the only escape for us, besides 153 retracing our steps, was to cross a wide channel with a furious cataract above, and another close below. We hugged the foot of the upper as close as possible, and the men pulled with such force that one of the paddles broke when we reached half the way. With the remaining three we made a hair- breadth escape ; the boat could not have lived an [instant had we been carried over the lower fall. The rollers formed by the swiftness of the current are five feet high ; large logs are carried down so fast they plough straight through the waves, and are out of sight in an instant. The men came near upsetting the boat in a dangerous pass. They seemed to be giving out through pure exhaustion. They have very little to eat; far- inha adds not much to their strength, and jerked beef spoils. No fish are to be found, nor birds; a monkey would be a treat. Night overtook us half way down the falls, and we ca.me to, on a barren rock, where there were two small sticks of wood, of which we made a fire, boiled water, and ga-ve the men" cOifee. I observed a southern star, and turning for another in the north, was glad to find it had passed the meridian, as sleep was much more necessary than latitude. On the west side of the falls stood three small hills ; on the east side a large white- trunked forest tree. This was the largest tree we had yet seen, though not quite equal to a North American huge oak. Sept. 24, 1852. — At daylight we crawled on ; it would be a mistake to grace it with the name of travelling. The country is'thickly wooded with Brazil nuts and cacao trees interspersed. Four miles further down we came to " Periquitos " rapid, which takes its name from the number of parrots inhabiting the woods.^ These parrots are green, scarlet, and yellow, with long tails ; they fly slowly overhead in pairs, crying an alarm as we are seen approaching. We paddle through these few rocks without the least, difficulty. Banks of the river thirty feet high ; soundings, fifty-four feet. At mid-day a thunder gust with rain came from the north. As we are passing out of the Madeira Plate, we find the climate changing ; northerly winds bring rain here, while southerly winds bring them farther south. At 3 p.m., thermo- meter, 86"=. ; water, 83°. 1*54 " Araras " rapids were passed with much toil, easing the boat down hy ropes made of bark, which are best for such work as this ; the water has little effect iipon them. The fall is small and the channel clear. While the men gather Brazil nuts from the woods, w? bottled a young turtle, taken from among eggs found in the sand. Amphibia are poorly represented ; we see no alligators, snakes, or frogs. The water has 'become much more clear; it has a milky appearance. The banks slope down regu- larly ; being covered with a Ught green coat of grass, they have the appearance of cultivation. Sept. 25. — At 9 a.m., thermometer, 84°. ; water, 82". ; light north wind. At 2 p.m., thunder to the north-east. On the east bank were cliffs of red clay fifty feet high, breaking down perpendicularly. We passed the mouth of the Abuna river, which is fifty yards wide, and flows in from the south-west. At 3.30 p.m., thermometer, 86°. ; water, 82°. In the evening lightning to the south-west. We came to a number of rocky islands in the river, aud took up our quarters on one of them for the night. We slept under blankets ; there is a heavy dew, and the nights are quite cool. Richards was aroused by a severe pain in his ear ; he was suffering all night long. The men told me it was common among the soldiers at the fort, caused by ex- posing the ear to night air and dew. The only remedy reported was '' woman's milk," which was not at hand. Sept. 26. — For the eighteen miles between the "Araras" rapids and Pederneira falls, we found a current of only one and a half mile per hour, with a depth of sixty feet of water. We have observed, between all the falls passed, that the current becomes slow, and as there is very little damming up of the water by the falls, that the general inclination could not be great. We also found the land gradually getting higher, as though the river was flowing through a country which sloped against the current. We find at the Pederneira falls the strata perpen- dicular ; the river does not flow over a flat mass of rock as before, but cuts its way through a vertically grained rock ; so fair and square has the river worn its passage, that the gap resembles 155 a breach in a stone dam. The river turns from its northern course at a right angle, and flows east, inclining a little south, as though it wanted to turn .back and flow into the Madeira Plate again. "We suppose this fall to be situated on the top of that ridge of hills and mountains extending across South America from the Andes to Brazil. We are now on the chain which fastens Brazil to the base of the great mountains, and the river is sawing across and cutting it gradually asunder. Part of our baggage was carried over, and our boat towed along the east bank with less difficulty than we expected ; we found a rapid current below. • On the south bank of the river we saw two bark canoes ; the negroes gave us music on their cow's horns, and two red women appeared on the bank at a path in the thicket ; they belonged to the " Caripuna " tribe. We pointed down the river, and called for " Capitan Tupe ; " they ran away, and we continued to the Paredao falls. A whale boat might pass through the main channel with ease, but our boat was too small to attempt it. The baggage was landed on a sand beach near the rocks, which were elevated forty feet above the water level. In the rainy season the floods cover them aU except ten feet. I climbed up to the top for a view of the country, and to seek a passage* for the boat. The men had a short distance to paddle, and then tow her through a narrow channel by the ropes. The landing place was in the rapid current; they missed it, and the boat ran away with them through the rocks — they were carried at a frightful rate ; Titto shouting to the negroes at the top of his voice to pull for their lives, so that he might steer them safely, which he fortunately did. They were all so much frightened that it brought them to their working powers. The sight was an interesting one for me, as the smallest rock in their way would have dashed the boat to pieces. As I turned to go down I found myself surrounded by a party of savage women and children who had come up behind me. There were eight women, ten children, and two unarmed men, all, from ex- ternal appearances, savages of the purest water. On taking out my handkerchief, the women and children all laughed. One of the men stepped before me, and, putting his hand into my pocket. 156 took all the fish-hooks out, and appropriated them to his own use, by handing them to a homely -woman who bore a sucking baby, and then cooly inquired whether I had a knife to give him. He was a short, thick-framed man, quite fat and hearty ; the women were all ugly; the boys were the most cheerful, manly-looking Indians we ever met with.' At my suggestion they walked to the boat with me. Their chief " Capitan Tupe," as they (;all him, was absent on a hunting excursion. Their huts were some distance from the falls, so that we missed seeing their houges. They were quite friendly with us. Some of the men who came afterwards, left their bows and arrows behind the rocks, and walked up unarmed. The women carried their babies under the arm, seated in bark cloth straps, slung over the opposite shoulder. The infants appeared terribly frightened at the sight of a white man ; one of them screamed out when Pedro milked the mother into a tin pot, for the benefit of Richards' ear, which still troubled him. The woman evidently understood what was wanted with i't, 'and stood still for Pedro to milk her as much as he chose. The boys are remarkable for large bellies. The older ones express a willingness to go away from their mothers ; one was asked, by signs, if he would go with me ; he shook his head, no; when he was made to understand that he could get a pair of trousers and something to eat, he then nodded his head, yes. Pedro tells me they swell themselves up by eating earth, which Indian children all do. One of the Caripunas got into the boat and examined the baggage ; he soon found a knife, which he took, and came out with it in his hand, before every- body. It belonged to one of the negroes, who took it from the Indian. The savage appeared disappointed ; he was then told if he would bring yuca or other provisions for the men, he should have a knife. They all declared they had nothing to eat in their houses. We made them a little present, and bought a bow with arrows from one of the boys. They were particularly desirous of getting fish-hooks and knives. The full dress of the men consists of beads of hard wood round their necks, with bafids bound tight round the arms above the elbow, and round the ankles. The foreskin is tied up to a band of cotton twine, which is wound tight round the hips and under part of the belly. AH 157 wear their hair long, and cut square off in front. In large holes in their ears they carry pieces of bone or a stick of wood. Through the hole in the nose a quill is pushed; the cavity being filled up with different coloured feathers, gives them a moustached appearance. These people are nearly all of the same height and figure, but differ very much in the features of the face. Some have thick lips, flat noses, and round faces ; others are just the reverse. The former very ugly, and a few of the latter tolerably good-looking. • The women are larger than those we saw near the mouth of the Beni. There are not many of them ; they live about in small bands, and said they found few fish in the river. They promised to plant yuca and com, so that the crew might have something to eat on their return to the fort. As we embarked, they said " shwma," which Pedro in- formed lis meant "good man;" but probably referred to more presents. The lands on the south side of the river are inhabited by the Caripunas. It is flat and a beautiful spot for cultivation. Small mountains and hills are in sight, on the north side, as we descend by a rapid current. The river seems to be creeping along on a ridge, seeking 'an outlet to the north. At 3 p.m., thermometer, 90°. ; water, 83°. ; light northerly airs ; thunder to the north, and a rainbow to the north-east. Sept. 27i — At " Tres Irmaos " rapids we found no difficulty. A large island in the middle of the river chokes it, and the water rapidly flows through two channels. As we dashed by, the men blew their horns for " Capitan Macini," another Caripuna chief who lives on the south side of the river, with a small band of his tribe. Pedro speaks of " Capitan " in complimentary terms. He is represented as being exceedingly obliging ; we wanted his services as pilot, but missed him. After passing " Tres Irmaos " rapids the river turns north. A rapid current carries us through a chain of hills on each side, tending east and west. The foliage is unusually green and thick ; forest trees have been broken by the action of violent winds. We scarcely are fairly launched out of the Madeira Plate into the Amazon basin, before we meet, at raid-day, a storm of wind and rain from the north- east, accompanied with thunder. We find the sea-way in.mid- 158 channel much too high for our little boat, and bring to, while the storm passes ; the wind carries a cloud of dry sand before it. At 3 p.m., thermometer, 85°. ; water, 84°. We are now being avalanched down an inclined plane. Arriving at the head of Girao falls, we find the true falls 'of the Madeira. They are short, but the rush of water through a confined space, between immense masses of rock, bafiies large sized vessels, and prevents their passing either up or down the river. Don Antonio trans- ported his boats over the land here. Richards was suffering very much from his ear ; his under eye- lid hung down, the comer of his mouth became drawn up on one side, while he seemed to lose control of the muscles of his face ; the pain was beyond endurance. All the men began to feel the effects of the change of climate ; the nights cold, and mid-day sun very hot. They complained of headaches and pains in their backs ; the strongest of them were jaded. Before they went to sleep, I dosed the party with raw brandy aU round, which cheered them up. They have been much more respectful lately, and work with a will. Sept. 28. — The men are all in better health this morninsr. They carried the baggage through the woods on the east side of the river, and -with the greatest difficulty got the canoe through the rocks. The river has been turned to the eastward by hills on the north side. The faU cannot be estimated with any degree of certainty ; the descent is more precipitous, and the roaring of the foaming waters much greater than any we before met. We were from daylight until 3 p.m., making the passage from the upper to the lower side, before we got breakfast, which we took under the shade of trees, where the thermometer stood at 99° ; wind north-east. Pedro shot a few fish with his arrows, and a negro caught one with a line. As the vegetable kingdom appears fresh and vigorous, under the strong breezes filled with moisture from the North Atlantic, so again do we find animal life in abundance. The trade-winds from the ocean cross the land from Cayenne, ' in French Guiana, and strike this side of the Amazon basin. The clouds roll up, and the waters are wrung out in drops of rain. , 159 The Paititi district of country which we have on otir west, and the Tapajos district on the east, are watered by the north- east trade-winds. They get their moisture from the North Atlantic, and here we find on the side of these hills the boisterous region again, and ^the trees are torn up by the roots. These acts of the north-east trade-winds are written upon this slope of the Amazon basin exactly as we met the south-east trade- winds as they struck the Andes on their way from Rio tTaneiro. The Caripuna Indiana we have just left told us they came down the Madeira for fish. They find little game and no fish, even in these mighty waters, above the boisterous region. The two Yuracares Indians we met on the side of the Andes, said they would catch us fish when we got further down the rapid Paraciti. Fish are just as particular in their choice of waters and clvmate as those animals which inhabit the dry land. The foam that is produced by the water dashing over the rocks, floats aloft in the shape of mist ; and in the calm, clear, starlight nights, the gentle north-east breezes cast a thin gauze- like veil around us and affect the glasses of our instruments. AU observation of the stars seems to be forbidden. Early in the morning, as the sun's rays strike upon the river, they gradually absorb the mist, and first that portion which has been scattered by the night-winds, and looking just then up or down the river from an eminence, the traveller may see the position of each cataract, like the smoke of a line of steamers. The powerful sun soon evaporates this mist, which speedily disappears as it rises. One of the crew caught a small electric eel, which opened its gaJvanic battery and shocked the whole party. A rapid current and no bottom at twenty-five fathoms water. Sept. 29. — We got our baggage stowed and all on board ready for a long pull, but soon fetched up among the rocks again. " Caldeirao do Inferno " rapids are caused by three rocky and somewhat wooded islands in the river. We puUed part of the way through on the west side without discharging baggage ; the boat was gently eased down by the ropes. At the foot of these falls, which could not be passed by a steam- boat, we discovered a bark canoe, manned with savages, paddling .160 with all their might away from us ; they seemed to be very much alarmed, and were soon out of sight. As we came to a place rather too rapid for safety among rocks, the men got out and towed us along the north bank ; while doing so, three savage men, three women, three children, and five most miserably thm skeleton dogs, came to see us. The men laid their bows and arrows behind the rocks, and approached us without fear, but the slim dogs were disposed to show fight. They were weak and slab-sided animals ; quite unsuccesful in their endeavours to raise a bark at us, but coughed out a sickly sort of noise as they hxmg around their masters' legs. One had his ears boxed by a tiger, which gave him a perpetual stiff neck. They all looked as though they had been vainly struggling with the beasts of the forest. An unsightly old woman brought us a fried fresh fish from the river. One of the men had bilious fever, but was attended by a pretty girl, who took her paddle in one of the canoes which kept company with us. The parrots swarm along the banks of the river, but there are few other birds. The cur- rent runs at the rate of six miles per honr. River, three quarters of a mile wide, with sand banks and islands in the stream. We landed on the north bank with the Caripuna savages ; men, women, and children, all seated themselves in a friendly way round our cow-hide which was spread on the ground for breakfast. Eichards was left in charge of the boat, while I, with one of the negroes, armed with a musket, followed a path through the woods single file for a quarter of a mile from the river. As we came in sight of huts the men and boys gathered under an open house at the end of the path ; the women all seized their babies and ran into two enclosed buildings in the rear. The savages did not take up their bows and arrows, which, however, lay at hand, but several of them held knives, and others picked theirs up. Thomas, the tall negro soldier,' came to a stand just outside of the shed, while I walked under and took a seat in one of the grass hammocks slung between the posts on which the roof was supported. The boys all laughed and gathered round me. One man came up find leaned against a post close by me with his arm elevated, 161 He held a knife in his hand ; my hand was concealed under my jacket, where Colt's revolver rested in a belt. The Indian wanted to test me, as is their custom. A fine rooster passed by. Savage was asked to sell it by signs of hunger. He at once took down his hand, and called out to the houses, when the women came out with their babies. One of them, a good-looking squaw, came to him, and they had a consultation about the chicken. She nodded her head, and the boys gave chase to catch it for me. There were thirty savages living in this wild out-of-the-way place. One of the men was chipping off the outside of a hollow piece of log with his knife for a drum, two of which already hung up under the shed. They expressed no pleasure at seeing us. They looked aa though they preferred we would go away. The roof of the wooden house, under which the men were collected, was beautifully thatched with a species of wild palm-leaf The frame work was made of poles stripped of their bark, fastened together with vines or creepers. The whole rested on forked posts, set in the ground, between which there were slung a number of grass hammocks. Bows and arrows were their only home-made arms. The knives were imported. After making friends with them, they all came up, shook hands, and took a good look at me. The floor of the guard or men's houses was swept clean. It seemed to be kept in military order, clear of all household or kitchen furniture. One of the men and several women went with me to examine the dwelling-houses of the women. The roof extended within two feet of the ground. The sides and gable ends were also thatched in, with a doorway at each corner, and one in the centre next the guard-house; five entrances in all. The inside presented a confused appearance. Piles of ashes were scattered about the ground -floor as though each woman had her separate fireplace. The inside measured about forty feet by fifteen, Earthen pots and plates were lying about in confusion ; dirty, greasy hammocks hung up ; tamed parrots were helping them- selves to plantains. An ugly monkey looked dissatisfied at being fastened by the hinder part of the body to a post. The unplea- sant variety of odours drove us out. In the third house there were but two doors. Here the miserable dog kept up a terrible 162 noise. The women took me to the hammock of an old sick Indian, who they made signs was dying, by laying their heads in the palms of their hands and shutting their eyes. He was covered with a dark cloth blanket, which was cast off by him that I might see his thin legs and body. He was very much reduced. By the whiteness of his hair, I judged he was dying of old age, or suffocated inside the damp, filthy house ; where he seemed to have been turned to the dogs. There was one house in which the women slept. The open house was the sleeping apartment of the men and boys. There was great order among the men ; the grounds about were swept. Where the women were seemed all confusion and want of cleanliness. Their faces were covered with dirt. As to their clothing, we could better describe what they did not wear. We saw no signs of a place of worship, nor of what was wor- shipped, though the Brazilians say they have seen among them " wooden images," figures of head and shoulders in shape like a man. A Catholic priest once yisted these people, but found no encouragement. They looked on indifferently, taking more interest in the music of a violin and the singing than anythiug else. The lofty forest trees shade the little huts ; a path leads farther inland, where they cultivate patches of yuca and com ; though they have little to eat from the land at present, and take to the river for food. The children of these Indians strike us as being remarkably intelligent, compared with those on the tops of the Andes. All Indian children seem to be in much brighter spirits than the older ones. They have yet to be taught the art of using chicha, which the women are said to give their husbands here in the woods. We gave the multitude an invitation to join us at breakfast. A little boy walked by me with the rooster under his arm, and all followed, single file, with the music of crjring babies, to the bank of the river, where they seated themselves round. Some presents were made to them in exchange for the offer of several chickens and a large partridge. To the little girls we gave earrings, to supply the place of fish or beast bones ; to the boys fish-hooks, and to the men knives. The elderly women particularly fancied looking-glasses for theniselves and glass beads for their 163 babies, ■ One very unattractive woman requested me to make her an additional present of a looking-glass. A knife had been offered, which she particularly requested. She received the refusal witli such a savage side-glance, that the damage was repaired at once, and the men ordered into the boat. Her 'sister used paint. Her forehead was besmeared with a red colour, and her lips blackened. We presented her with a large looking-glass, which she used for examining as far down her throat as possible. Pedro had a slight difficulty with one of the savages, who, he said, had stolen his knife from the boat. I replaced it, and we went on without being disturbed, though, as we afterwards learnt, these fellows not long since robbed two Brazilians on the river, who escaped down the stream in one of the bark canoes of the savages, leaving their own boat behind. At 3 p.m., thermometer, 91° ; water, 85°; river, one mile wide ; interspersed with islands and rocks, twenty-five fathoms depth. On the east side a small stream of clear water flows in. The waller of these small side-streams are often 6° Fahrenheit cooler than the main river water. We bottle it, as the river water is • unpleasantly warm for drinking. A man fully comprehends the blessing of ice by gliding down this river. The current is fast one hour and slow the next few minutes. The men pull when they feel like it, and rest when they wish. We are moving along, more or less, all the time during the day. The river is not very winding. Sept. 30. — About twenty-five miles on a north-easterly course, brought us to " Doz Morrinhos " rapids. The difference of level here is slight, though the passes are difficult. A part of the baggage was handed over the rocks, which proved a prudent plan, as the boat was nearly swamped. The country is quite uneven and thickly wooded. At mid-day we had a light shower of rain, accompanied by thunder, without wind. At 8 p.m., thermometer, 87 deg.; water, 85; with a strong south- west wind. At the foot of these falls we sounded with five hundred and ten feet, and no bottom. At a late hour in the afternoon we arrived at the "head of " Teotonio " falls, the most terrific of them all. Here I was 164 attacked with a severe bilious fever, which brought me at once on my back. The pain in my left breast was somewhat like that described by those who have suffered with the " Ghagres fever." We were all worn out, thin, an^ haggard. I had been 'kept going by excitement, as the men were careless, brutal negroes, and Richards suffering still with the pain in his ear. Oct. 1.— This fall is ov^r fifteen feet, ten of which is at an angle of 45 degrees. The roaring made at intervals, by the rushing of the waters over and through the rocks, sounds like distant thunder. Our little canoe is driven for safety out of the water to the land. The baggage was carried by a path on the south side to the foot of the falls. Richards went along with the first load, and remained below looking out, while I rested to see everything sent over. The men idled their time between us, until we v/ere caught in a heavy rain and thunder-storm from north-east. The boat was put upon rollers and transported four hundred yards over a hill, and launched into the river below. We were from daylight until dark at the work, I should not complain, however, because men never had a more harassing time than these have had. If alone, they would not have come half the distance in the same length of time. They have pushed on for me, when I least expected they would keep on. We noticed that, at nearly, all the falls in the Madeira, the river turns as it cuts its way through the rocks, forming nearly a semi-circle towards the eastward. After gaining the base of the declivity, the stream returns again to its original course. Here thg path over the land describes a diameter. The storm continued all night in squalls. The negroes took off their clothes and laid down upon the bare rocks under a heavy rain, with cold wind, where they actually slept, while those of the crew, with Indian blood, built a fire and slept on the sand close by it in their clothes. The baggage was left on the sand bank until morning covered with raw hides. We were well drenched ; certainly a poor remedy for bilious fever, particularly when followed by the heat of a tropical sun. 165 Oct. 2. — Five miles below are " San Antonio " falls, whicli we passed by tow lines without disembarking our baggage. The difference bi level is very small ; the bed of the river much choked with^ocks. The stream is divided into a great number of rapid and narrow channels. We took breakfast on the west side, at the foot of these falls, with feelings of gratitude ; we had safely passed the perils of seventeen cataracts. Those parts of the rivers Madeira and Mamor^ between the foot of San Antonio and the head of Guajara-merim falls, are not navigable for any class of vessels whatever ; nor can a road be travelled, at all seasons of the year, on either bank, to follow the course of the river, for the land bordering on the stream is semi-annually flooded. ' By referring to the map, it will be seen we travelled from Guajara-merim, on the Mamord, in a due north course to the Pederneira falls on the Madeira.' By the windings of the river we estimate the distance not less than one hundred miles. From the Pederneira falls to the foot of San Antonio, our direction was about east-north-east, a distance by the river of one hundred and forty miles, which makes the space not navi- gable two hundred and forty miles. A road cut straight through the territory of Brazil, from San Antonio falls, in a south-west direction, to the navigable point on the Mamor^; would not exceed one hundred and eighty miles. This road would pass among the hills, seen from time to time, to the eastward, where the lands, in all probability, are not overflowed. On a common mule road, such as we find in Bolivia, a cargo could be transported in about seven days from one point to the other. Don Antonio Cardoza was five months struggling against these numerous rapids and rocks, to make the same distance, with his cargo in small boats. We have been twelve days descending the falls, which is considered by Brazilian navigators fast travelling. The wild, woods that cover the lands are unknown to the white man. Topographically considered, the lands on the east side of the Madeira are the most valuable. Our experience with a black crew gives reason to believe the climate is more congenial to them than the white or red races. • Among the half-civilised and savage aborigines, we notice very few men live to an old age ; they generally pass 166 away early ; the tribes are composed usually of men under forty years. The moment we landed at Principe, there appeared ■before us a number of active, grey-headed old negro-women and men, grinning and bowing, with as much((||ife in their expression of face and activity of manner as the youngest. Long after the savage has become hammock-ridden with age, the negro, bom before him, is found actively employed. The physical strength of the negro is not equalled by the red man here. The Indian enjoys the shade of the forest trees, while our negroes rejoice in the heat of the sun. * * * * =f * Now that we are at the mouth of this magnificent stream (the river Madeira), we find no deeply-loaded vessels enter it. The value of the present foreign trade of South Peru and Bolivia may be worth ten millions of dollars per annum. The distance from the foot of San Antonio falls to the mouth of the Madeira is five hundred miles by the river. A vessel drawing six feet water may navigate this distance at any season of the year. A cargo from the United States could reach the foot of the falls on the Madeira within thirty days. By a common mule road, through the territory of Brazil, the goods might be passed from the lower to the upper falls on the Mamord in less than seven days, a distance of about one hun- dred and eighty miles ; thence by steamboat, on that river and the -Chapar^ a distance of five hundred miles to Vinchuta, in four days. Ten days more from the base of the Andes, over the road we travelled, would make fifty-one day's passage from Baltimore to Cochabamba, or fifty-nine days to La Paz, the commercial emporium of Bolivia, where cargoes arrive generally from Baltimore in one hundred and eighteen days, by Cape Horn — often delayed on their way through the territory of Peru from the seaport of Arica. Goods by the Madeira route, sent over the Cordillera range to the Pacific coast, might get there one month before a ship could arrive from Europe on the eastern coast of the United States, by two oceans, or the old route. THE MADEIRA AND ITS HEAD-WATERS. BY GENERAL QUINTIN QUEVEDO. TO THE NATIONAL GOVERNMENT. Taking, as we do, a lively interest in any great and excellent measure for the future development of Bolivia, we have read with considerable satisfaction Senor Quintin Quevedo's treatise, published in Brazil, "On the Navigation of the Madeira." The work being one of national interest, we reproduce it here. This valuable undertaking, the result of an earnest love tp his country, prepares the way for the realisation of one of the most important projects devised by our statesmen. Various sessions of the Congress have hailed it as the most efficacious means to advance Bolivia to the prosperous destinies which are in store for her. Cabinets of renown and progressive policy have devoted some measures to it. The Ministry of " Mendez " (Manuel de la Cruz) took the initiative in 1842, and to it is due the administrative and social amelioration of the Beni, as well as the surest precedent to the ulterior steps relative to the navigation of its rivers. The Ministry of " Urquidi " (Melchor) in 1851, gave to the fluvial enterprises such impulse as circumstances, political and financial, would, at the time, permit. This was done with that activity and constancy which characterise him in the public service and in the furtherance of profitable ideas. The Ministry of Rafael Bustillo, in 1853, enthusiastic to realise such a project, spoke of the navigation of our rivers as the pro- lific germ of liberty, so useful to the interests of the Republic, as well as of all mankind, and declaring, in consequence, free for the commerce of all nations of the globe, the affluents of the Amazon and the Paraguay. Now that the Republic enjoys peace i^nde? the auspices of a, 170 just Government, that the national opinion has already been established with regard to the interests of our country, and that, for the honour of Bolivia, revolutions are regarded as a great calamity, and the good sense of the Bolivians recognises only work and industry ; now that steam and electricity have been placed at the service of man, by which means an economy of physical exertion and monetary expenditure can be effected ; and now that the resistance offered by Brazil has ceased, and that Empire manifests a willingness to enter into relations mutually beneficial ; now-a-days, we say, the magnanimous President Acha and his illustrious Cabinet have resolved to give execution to that splendid project — th^ navigation of our rivers. To you, then, General Ach4 and to your worthy Minister Salinas,* we address ourselves as patriots, and we solicit from you protection for so great an enterprise ; protection for the citizens who undertake it ; and protection, finally, for the Bolivian who has known how to utilise his ostracism in subser- vience to his country, to which he dedicates himself with manly efforts and patriotic self-denial from remote foreign regions, whither an unfortunate policy has banished him ! The act of thus opening up a future for Bolivia crowns you with glory ; and you immortalise your name by supporting the national prosperity. Certain Bolivians. Cochabamba, December 28, 1861. To the Most Excellent Senor Angelo Thomas do Amxiral, President of the Province of Pard. Most Excellent Sie, To your patronage I owe the publication of this treatise, and it is my duty to dedicate to you the work of your protection. Impressed with the lofty sentiments of progress which you * To Dr. Manuel Macedonio Salinas is entrusted the Department of Foreign Affairs, ^hjch has to deal with the matter in point. 171 cultivate, I wish you the attainment of your desires, and the deserved enjoyment of the rich results. Now, more than ever, you are in readiness to devote yourself, with strenuous efforts, to the subject of American prosperity, as Deputy General of the Empire. I need not recommend to your attention the Navigation of the Madeira, nor urge upon you theimportanceof a reciprocally-profitable understanding between our respective countries. You are aware that two nations linked by interests of commerce, proximity and sympathy are almost unknown, and allow the advantageous elements to be wrecked, in the nullity of its reciprocal indifference. The vivifying germ of the world, steam, already bears its fruit along the Avide affluents of the Amazon ; and, on crossing the point where the Madeira joins it, the last-named protests against the neglect to which it has been condemned,being, as it is, the richest tributary of the King of Waters. I esteem so much the more your favourable position in this respect as I see the nuUity of my own, incarcerated within the limits of ostracism^. Unfold, therefore. Sir, all your resources in aid of so important a work, and give it, in the Tribune, the sup- port it merits. Then, when my aspirations may be crowned with success, you wiU command the esteem of two nations, and the lasting gratitude of Your Excellency's Obedient and faithful servant, (Signed) Quintin Quevedo. BeUm, April 25, 1861. THE MADEIRA AND ITS HEAD WATERS, A 6H0ET ACCOUNT OF THIS EIVEE, ITS AFFLUENTS AND THEIK BASINS. From the town of San Joaquin, almost opposite to the fort Principe de Beira, I addressed, to the press of my country, Bolivia, a small sketch of the Department of the Beni, the ancient Province of M6jos, little known in the Republic, yet worthy, by reason of its features, productions and fluvial position, of the most earnest consideration. Then, also, I offered to make public the result of my journey, or exile converted into an ex- ploration. What satisfaction attends me on the one hand, in fulfilling this promise, and what regret, on the other, through my inability to do so as I would wish ! I look back on all I have seen and passed through as a fan- tastic dream. Certainly, to cruise with those simple, Beni Indians, in a badly-hollowed canoe, for a distance of- more than five hundred leagues upon the waters of one of the principal affluents of the mighty Amazon, thus gratifying a caprice ; to cross virgin woods where Nature»has lavished with a profuse hand her richest gifts, to tread under foot, on all sides, the most valu- able fruits which rot in the desert ; to live in the forest amidst wild beasts, to enjoy the most picturesque views of vegetation, to drink the surrounding freshness of the green and humid woods, or to endure, benumbed, the crushing power of the tempest in the silence of the wilderness, within hearing of the cries of the bear and the tiger ; are truly scenes of infinite magnitude and variety, far beyond all conception. T have traversed in my journey the heart of South America, ^ud it seems that, from the centre of the Andean heights, where 17S I waKS taken, I have wandered, urged on by an ill-directed im- pulse, but sheltered by the hand of Providence, so that amid the rocks and precipices He has spread over me His mantle of roses, and has brought me to the mouth where the Atlantic is rolled back by the Amazon, by which, one day, the richest and most fertile regions, now deserted and uncultivated, will be brought into communication with the world, offering it exuberant pro- duce, and receiving thousands of immigrants that Europe sends out in all directions. One of these regions of such promise is the scene of my aspirations, the fatherland of my children. How shall my heart not palpitate at the prospect of such , brilliant fortunes in the future ! - ProA^dence is wont to reserve, now and then, amidst inscrut- able designs, the weakest objects for the most colossal ends. I, proscribed and forcibly ejected from my country, to satiate the craArings of rancour and prejudice, on beholding myself in the solitudes of the Madeira, borne along its waters or whirled in its eddies, have often had the idea of accomplishing a mission, and my privations and sufferings and dangers have passed unnoticed, because my mind lived in its idea, and all my sentiments centred in the thought of the navigation of the Madeira. My position offers a rare coincidence with that of a dis- tinguished Peruvian, who, not many years ago, by way of the Solimoes, arrived at this village, and found, as I did, a vehicle of commerce and of life for the oriental towns of Per6. Impelled with this idea, and eager for the prosperity of his country, he devoted his energies to the navigation of the Amazon, until he crowned them with the desired realisation. I, placed in the extreme east of America, and urged by a similar motive, also raise my voice before Bolivians, inviting them to an enter- prise which is important to the prosperity and future develop- ment of that dear fatherland. To achieve this result, needs less effort and expense than has been supposed in Bolivia ; and it may be assured that the only real impediment is inertia and want of will. I abstain from publishing the diary of my voyage, because I consider that it contains little amusement, being wearisome and scattered. I have preferred to extract from it data and more reliable accounts, so as to arrive at a trustworthy G 174 illustration of the navigability of the Madeira, its inconveniences, and the actual condition of those regions. I regret that I am not in a position to offer a worthier work and more exact data ; but I am limited by my capabilities, and, through my position as a proscript, I, necessarily, lack all information requisite for earnest study and action. Before treating of the rapids, I will give an account of the river Madeira, of its practical value, its source, and other note- worthy features. Three principal branches form this river, which drains the eastern district of Bolivia — ^the Mamor4 the It^nes, and the Beni. The Ma/mori, which flows almost directly from south to north, intersecting the tracts and central towns of the Beni Depart- ment, takes its name after the confluence of the river Sara with the Chapard The rivei Sara descends irom the plains of Santa CiTiz de la Sierra, and 's formed from the watery wealth of the river Piray, which crosses to the west of that city, and of the river Grande, which, descending from the rugged heights to the west of Cochabamba, and forming a large bend, traverses, near Chayanta, the Department of Pqtosi and that of Chuquisaca, makes a detour at the eastern district of Santa Cruz, and joins itself much lower down to the Piray. Still further below this confluence, the river Yapacani incorporates itself with the river Sara on its left bank. The depth o:^ the river Sara may not perhaps, be sufficient at all times for the navigation of large vessels ; but it is always available for canoes and small launches. On the Piray is a port Tor Santa Cruz, in a place called Cuatro Ojos, at thirty odd leagues from that city. After the Yapacani comes the Chapare, which possesses greater volume and is more navigable than the Sara. This river has its port, named Gohoni, distant thirty odd leagues from the city of Cochabamba. It flows west-south-west, until its confluence with the Sara, and thence takes the name of Mamord This river, in its steady course from south to north, afterwards receives, on the west bank, the river Secure, by which Mr. D'Orbigny descended from the heights of Cochabamba, through the forest of Totolima. This affluent, then, offers a better channel of navigation for 175 Cochabamba, by reason of the direction in which it flows and its proximity to that capital, thus saving the journey across the Esplritu Santo, so unhealthy and dangerous. It also receives, successively on the same side, the Tijamuchi, Apere, R&pulo, and Yacuhuma. On the east, it receives the Ibar^ and the Matucare', with other small streams. The Mamor^ flows by the towns of Loreto, Tuinidad (capital of the department), San Javier, San Pedro,' San Ignacio, Santa Ana and: Exalt&.cion, crossing regions and-plains fuU of wonderful vegetation, abound- , ing in wild homed cattle which feed on the prairies. These tracts are rich in coffee, cocoa; white and yellow cotton, almonds, tamarinds, tobacco, sugar-cane, yuca, rice, sarsaparilla, gum elastic, copaiba, vanilla, indigo. Brazil-wood, and a thousand other dyes, resins, and woods of infinite variety. The lUnes, or Guapor6, which descends from the province of Mato Grosso, sparkling and clear, as a mountain-stream, wide deep, and majestic (even more so than the Mamord), flows in an east-south-easterly direction, and unites with the Mamord at about thirty leagues below Exaltacion, after passing the weH- known Brazilian fort of Principe de Beira. It receives in its course the Bolivian rivers — San Simon, S. Nicolas, S". Martin* Negro, Blanco, Magdalena, and the Ipurupuro or Machupo. These rivers approach, and facilitate the communication between, the Beni towns of San Joaquin, S. Ramon, Magdalena, Guaca- raje, Concepcion de Baur&, and El Carmen. After the conflu- ence of the Itdnes and Mamore, the latter name is preserved until the reunion with the Beni. The river Itdnes forms the boundaiy-line between the empire of Brazil and the republic of Bolivia, as far as the centre of the rapids. Th£ Beni, which descends from the eastern declivities of the department of La Paz, crosses, as the Mamord, tracts covered with most surprising vegetation. In the gorges of its Andean slopes, grows the invaluable species bf Peruvian bark known as cascarilla calisaya, so highly esteemed in Europe and North America. There, also, is cultivated the coca, a valuable pla,nt, the use of which should become more general in the world, substituting, with, great advantage, tobacco for chewing. The leaf is used for this purpose, possessing, as it does, many com- 176 mendable qualities and no inconveniences. It supports and stimulates, dispels the tendency to sleep at " wakes," and removes feelings of weariness. Jn Bolivia and Perii, it is in general use among the Indians, and to this is attributed the patience, frugality and hardiness of the people. On the slopes of Cocha- bamba, the waters of which descend to the Mamor^ there is, also, a large quantity of cascarilla caUsaya, and coca is culti- vated. Both localities produce the finest coffee in America, equal to that of Mocha; and the best kinds of cocoa. The varieties of tobacco are of the first quality with regard to flavour and strength. I do not know the true course of the Beni. I am aware that it is navigable nearly as far as the city of La Paz ; that it has as great a volume of water as the Mamor^ ; that it includes unknown plains of wild cattle ; and that, in its most fertile spots, it is peopled by various tribes of uncivilised and nomad Indians. This river joins the Mamord on the left, at the sixth rapid, called the Madeira, after which it takes the last- mentioned name. The Madeira, formed in the manner indicated, has sufficient depth for navigation, since it does not descend below iova fathoms, and generally rises to twenty more. It also has a steady ^¥idth of three hundred yards, widening to eight hundred and a thousand yards in the wet season. It flows northwards, receiv- ing, on the west, at the rapid of Pederneira, a tributary, the Abuna. With this maia direction, but inclining to the east, it continues as far as its confluence with the Amazon, receiving many tributaries on the way, and amongst these the rivers Jammary, Prieto, etc. At this confluence, the Madeira takes the easterly course of the Amazon, passing by a number of towns and villages, such as Serpa, Villa Bella, Obidos, Santarem, Gurupa, Breves, etc., which are rapidly growing, in consequence of the impulse to trade given by a steamer which visits those places fortnightly, plying on the Amazon as far as the town of Mangos, and running once .a month as far as Nauta, a central port in the north of Peril. The AfrMZon, in its long course of 235 leagues from its junction with the Madeira as far as Belem, capital of Para, receives many large affluents, such as the Saraca, Ramos, 177 Atuin4 Trombeta, Tapajos, Xingu, Tocantins. The ocean-tides are felt as far as Santarem, more than fifty leagues distant from Belem. The Amazon constantly spreads over the illimitable fields included within its basin, forming numberless large and small islands, and indulging in capricious ramifications. At one time it appears as a wide ocean, immense and imposing; at another, it narrows, breaking up into a thousand picturesque channels. Sixty leagues from its sea-mouth, it parts into two great branches, of which the greater lies to the north. These branches flow into the sea together by one common mouth. Along their banks are to be seen plantations of cocoa and coffee ; also neat country-houses and the modest habitations of agricul- tural labourers. Suddenly, beautiful hill-ranges appear, the aspect of which varies, or rather, they are succeeded by immense plains, where numerous herds of horned cattle graze, this, after Obidos, constituting an item of territorial riches. The tribu- taries furnish the market of Par^ with gum elastic, tobacco, sar- saparilla, the clove, chestnut, copaiba oil, etc. It is a pity that the cultivation of these articles and other agricultural produc- tions are not taken proper care of. This remark especially applies to certain products of great value ; for insta;nce : gum- elastic, copaiba oil, and sarsaparilla. Those fertile plains might be made to produce articles of the highest utility in large quan- tities for exportation. It always occurs in new countries that there is a want of labourers, where the enticing hope of large profits on some one branch 9f industry absorbs attention, until commerce and the lapse of time equalise the relative importance of products, and industry is generalised. The navigation of the Madeira is usually dangerous, as well as difficult and slow, through scarcity of trafiic. On the Mamore, on the banks of the Itenes and the Beni, there are wandering tribes of Indians that attack small canoes. Midway along the rapids, I have come across various settlements of the Caripuna Indians. They are the most tractable, but, nevertheless,, have not hesitated to commit acts of violence on small parties of travellers. I have seen, among them, well-arranged habitations with spacious and comfortable houses. They dwell in small scattered communities, but subject-to a local chief whom they 178 term cSpitam,. There is another " capitan," superior to all these chiefs. He is cdled Tupi, — a serious old man, and polite in his mannet towards white-faces. There are among them some cross-bteeds with "Europeans. Their colour and regular forms kre Agreeable, but this cannot be said of the indigenous portion, whicH exbibiy little regularity, is somewhat variable, and of a cbppfety colbur. In full dress they wear necklaces, bracelets, iand earrings of long large teeth and a capivara-tusk, or fine straw, inserted through the cartilage of the nose. Generally speaking, they do not use any clothing, and when they do, it consists of a large bark-shirt. In this manufacture they trade with the Beni indians that pass by that way. "The women, out of decency, wear a wide leaf suspended from the belt. Their hair is cut short on the forehead, and allowed to grow long down the back. The men wear their hair in the same manner. They stain their faces and bodies with a black shiny dye, and present a ridiculous appearance by having their sexual organ tied up with a string. One afternoon, at the rapid of Araras, I enjoyed the society of a small band, the captain of which was called Buchi — a lively and rather sensible young man. I was then able to observe something of the customs of those people. They are clean and frugal in their diet, and work in common under the orders of their leader. Men and women rtre employed in cultivaticoi or rowing, fishing and the chase are left to the men, while domestic attentions are left to the care of the females. The men, in their language, have but one name. The women take Christian names, such as Maria, Catherine, etc., but they do not appear to cultivate religion. The women are honest in the midst of their simplicity, and the men are hard- Working, indolent in the highest degree : they sow and cultivate only what is necessary. They display an interest in matters outside their circle. None of them are warriors, but they always carry their arrows for purposes of hunting or in case of attack. They like European articles, such as glass beads, necklades, cheap trinkets, needles, scissors, knives, machetes* staaM Ixjoking-glasses, etc. In exchange for these articles they givfe their services (which are very necessary at the rapids) * A short sword uged |or chopping. 179 yuca,* maize, sugar-cane, fowls, and plantains. They do not know the value of the riches whi.ch^-^j^t in their mountains; but abandon their treasures to the x \es of time. Beyond the rapids there are varioug-orliher tribes, such; as the Ar&as, Tur^, Mundurucus, and Pajrententins. , All these are domesticated and tractable, especially the Mundurucus, who act as the merchants of the Madeira, and make war on the Paren- tentins. These latter are wild. They are the most, formidable of the tribes in Bolivia, and appear upon the highlands of the river Jammary and the Prieto, as fai' as Crat9 and Bayetas. They live there, almost among the Brazilian rubber-merchants, and I am surprised that the mishaps which, from time to time, occur are not more frequent. They have attacked some traders unawares, and feasted off their roasted bodies. A short time ago they ate two or three unfortunate persons whom they surprised in a canoe. The worst tribes of Bolivia, such as the Sirion6s, Guarayos, Tovas, and Mosetenes do not practice this horrible custom, however much they may kill, lay waste, and pillage. I had entertained doubts as to the existence of can- nibals imtil I encountered them here on the Madeira, on the most fertile banks, and almost among civilized people. The most satisfactory point about them is that, as I have been assured, they are white, and differ from the indigenous race. There are some who believe that these jjprsons are the descend- ents of refugee Jesuits after their expulsion. I have wandered somewhat from my subject for this merely descriptive account of the localities and rapids, considering that this will aid my purpose of illustrating those regions. The rapids are nineteen in number, and lie at various distances from one another, within a space of sixty leagues,' skirted by a low hill-range which appears to obstruct the course of the waters. Some of the rapids are passable ; some do not offer any hindrance ; some have facilities for being made more level, and only three, the worst, need heavy work and skill to rendter them available. I append a table showing their order, distances, nature, and obstacles. ♦ A root which is ground and nsed for making bread, 180 1st Rapid. Gnajard-Merim. — Short and easy- passage, to the left^ without any incon- veniences.fte-iigtaiit frdin the second rapid ^op'.'- •" 1^ leagues. 2nd „ Ouajard^mssH,. — Larger than the first, but equiUly passable, on the same side. Distance to the third rapid 2 „ 3rd „ Bomaneiras. — Includes three bodies • of successive currents, and is divided into various branches. The first two are passed by the left, and the third by the island in the middle. The current is strong. Distance to the fourth rapid 1| „ 4tH „ Poo Grande. — Has two branches. The second is more impetuous and dangerous. Passing, by the left, along the first, one arrives at an island where it is usual to unload and convey the canoes empty. Distance to the fifth rapid 1-g- „ 5th „ Lages, or Jacard, may be passed on the right, but cautiously. Distance to the sixth rapid 2 6th „ Madeira. — Has two branches, and is impetuous: The river is divided into many channels. There is a passage to the right. Distance to the seventh rapid 2 „ 7th „ Misericordia. — A short but dangerous rapid. There are many rocks and a swift current. It is necessary to unload, , and the canoes have to be towed along the channel to the right. Distance to the eighth rapid 1 8th „ Ribeirao. — An insuperable fall, wide, and divided into many branches. The current forms whirlpools, sweeping along the left bank towards the fall on ISl the right. Canoes are unloaded at this bank, and, dragged overland for five hundred yards. Distance to^ the ninth rapid 9th „ Periquitos. — Lu, two notable bran- ches, but it can be easily passed on the right. Distance from the tenth rapid. . . 10th „ Ardras. — There are foamy waves and a swift current, but the traverse may be effected towards either bank. Distance to the eleventh rapid 10^ 11th „ Pederneira. — This rapid is superable but there is a strong current in conse- quence of the channel passing between rocks. Distance to the twelfth rapid 3 12th „ Pareddo. — Has two branches. It is a strong rapid. Unloading is effected to the right, and the canoes are passed empty. Distance from the thirteenth rapid 5^ 13th „ Treslrmdos. — A small and easy rapid, which may be passed on the right. Distance to the fourteenth rapid 7|- 14th ,, Girdo. — An insuperable fall. The river is divided- into branches that are more or less impetuous. Boats have to be unloaded on the right, and dragged for a mile over an easy road. Distance to the fifteenth rapid 1 15th „ Caldeirdo do Inferno. — -Has three channels, which may be passed, but with great danger, especially the last, which crosses from a vast rock to an island where pascana is found. All boats pass along the left.. Some persons prefer to unload. The river is divided into many branches. Distance from the sixteenth rapid 10 182 16th „ Morri/nkos. — Has passable canals, and although there are currents and rocks, it is passed on the left. Distance to the seventeenth rapid 3 „ l7th „ Theotonio. — Insuperable, and the highest of all. Has two branches. Having passed the first, unloading is effected in the second, on the right, and the canoes are towed overland, over a passable road a quarter of a league in length. Distance from the eighteenth rapid 1 „ 18th „ Macacos. — ^A slight rapid, which may be passed towards either bank. Dis- tance to the nineteenth rapid 2 „ 19th „ San Antonio. — Is strong, and the river is divided into various branches. The passage is effected through the channel to the right. Some unload 19 rapids 60 leagues. This account, implies that the rapids maybe classified in three orders, as follows : — 9 Rapids — Guaj ardr-Merim, Guaj ara-Gua^su, Lages, Periquitos, Araras, Pedemeira, Tres Irmaos, Morrinhos, and Macacos, are simply currents of varying velocity, but passable at all seasons. The passages through them are short, an,d even the worst are accessible. A river steamboat would surmount them. 7 Rapids — Bananeiras, Pa5 Grande, Madeira, Misericordia, Paredao, Caldeirao do Inferno, and San Antonio, are impetuous, have a dangerous current, and are, more or less,, obstructed by boulders and rocks. Nevertheless, they have no falls, and are superable by canoes well-manned. In the dry season the rocks appear, and usually offer channels of access. The most difiicult portions may be levelled, and none of them extend over any srreat distance. 3 Rapids — Ribeirao, Girao, and Theotonio : ar« insuperable falls at all seasons ; the escarps rise from six to fifteen yards in o 183 laeigH making a base angle of fifty, degrees, and with an impetus proportionate to the immense volume of waters. These three falls are the only ones which require difficult and costly work as well as skiU and time. From this it may be seen that the Madeira is entirely navi- gable to steainboats, except at the rapids ; and that its three principal braiiches — ^the Iti^nes, Mamor^ and the Beni — are also navigable almost to the cities of Bolivia, namely. La Paz, Cochabamba, and Satita Cruz. In 1854!, a large Brazilian vessel, drawing saore than eight feet of water, was able to reach the capital of the Beni. In the rainy season, the Madeira and its three affluents rise considerably, and are available for large craft. In the dry season, from April to November, its diminution is immense. In order to ascertain the difficulties with scientific accuracy, and to calculate the cost, it is necessary to make explorations at the last-named period, in order not to be deceived by the floods. I refrain from giving my opinio^ with regard to cost, because it is not possible to arrive at any satisfactory calcu- lation without having made a, special, voyage, and not having either instruments, resources, or the means qi making observations. However, I will say what I ttink regarding the systems that may be adopted. 1st. — I consider that there are three ways of facilitating the passage of the rapids, first to break through the crusts and rocks, and opening passages through that channel. 2iid. To canalize inaccessible places. 3rd. — To establish two lines of steamers to run as far as the extremes of the insuperable part of the rapids, and to act in con- junction with a railway along the Madeira. The first plan is the most perfect, convenient, and profitable ; but I consider it very difficult, costly, and slow. I find that, in the three highest spots, the impetuosity of the waters, the surges and whirlpools, preclude all access. The second plan is, to my mind, easier, more applicable, and less expensive than the first. Only three channels would be necessary in the three large falls, rendering the others available 184 by cuttings in the most convenient localities. The east bank, along which canoes are now dragged, has suitable passages for these channels, and although the whole of the land in the neigh- bourhood is of hard stone, there are neither great heights nor long distances to be traversed. The longest canal would not be more than one mile and a half ; the next one mile ; and the shortest, from eight hundred to one thousand yards. There is an advantage in these falls, as well as in all the rapids, that ex- tensive and level sand-banks intervene, which may be used "for carrying off the waters. By this means the short passages in the river would be employed, and canals would only be cut where unavoidable. Further, this would secure the advantage of con- tinuing the navigation as far as the ports of Bolivia, avoiding stations for loading and unloading, and consequently offering greater convenience and economy for freight. The third plan, without offering the advantages of the others, would be the easiest and most economical. The space of sixty leagues extending between the rapids, inclusive of the windings of the river, would leave a shorter distance to be spanned by the railway. The distances from the first rapids must also be counted. They are passable, perhaps, as far as Misericordia up- stream, and Macacos and San Antonio down stream ; since only from there would the railway begin. On the other side, a slight elevation of the hill-range offers an easy surface and abundance of wood, which is almost as hard as iron. Thus the cost would be greatly reduced. Whichever of these plans is adopted,' it is necessary to bear in mind the abundance of labourers the towns of the Beni afford, the small wdges that these people demand, the scanty supply of food that they require, their experience and hardiness in work. This will render any of the works easier to execute, and more economical. In 1845, a great company, in order to carry out this enter- prise, was started in the city of Cochabamba, by Mr. Charles Bridoux, a Frenchman. Its promoters collected more than five hundred (500) signa- tures of Bolivian subscribers. Reasons which I do not propose to explain prevented the realisation of the project. Now-a-days, that 185 we possess more information about the Madeira River, now that s teamboats ply on the waters of the Amazon, and commercial life and its benefits are beginning to be appreciated along its banks, and in this city, now that Bolivia, on its part, needs more imperatively an industrial action proportionate to its wealth, requirements, and the age, — I donot|ioubt that the dormant enthusiasm of the year 1845 will prove itself more energetic, and that the efforts of the people of Bolivia and Brazil, under the protection of' their Governments, may achieve the desire_d success. With this object I have started a company in Bolivia, and a subscription-list has already been opened. Approximate distances between the principal places. From Santa Cruz, Cochabamba, and La Paz to the various eastern points, the distances of which have been ascertained, there are, by land 40 leagues. From Cochabamba and Santa Cruz, as far as the capital of the Beni, since these distances are almost equal ; that is to say, from its ports to Trinidad, there are ... ... ... ... ... 50 From Exaltacion to the junction of the It^nes. . . 34 From this junction to the first rapid ... ... 26 From the first rapid to the junction of the Beni 8J From that junction to San Antonio, the last rapid olj , From San Antonio to Borba 60 From Borba to the junction with the Amazon 20 , From this junction to Serpa ... ... ... 5 From Serpa to Belem, the capital of Para . . . 230 , 525 In the course of the Beni, ^I calculate a distance very nearly equivalent. This route, or fluvial highway from the principal cities of Bolivia is now traversed in a most wonderful manner, being beset, as it is, with a thousand difficulties and imminent perils ; while 186 it requires seventy days for the descent, and more than six months for the ascent. Directly steam communication is established the route will be a convenient one, — easy, economical, short, and occupying no more than twelve days to the capital of Trinidad, and twenty-two days to La Paz, Cochabamba, and Santa Cruz, including the stoppages of the steamer. *" What a difference between the two means of communication ! The explanations and data, which I have given with all the conciseness that a small publication like the present necessitates, confirm the justly-famous wealth of the regions watered by the Madeira, and prove its navigability. Brazil and Bolivia, so in- terested in this work, must shortly either push it forward, so as to meet the requirements of those two countries, and thus act up to the spirit of the age, or they must remain in an unheeding and indolent state of apathy. In the first case, they wOl fulfil a duty which will yield them abundant returns ; in the second, the evils, the calamities and their consequences will afflict both nations. The present epoch is not one of expectation and irresolution. The impulse of steam pervades aU. The age requires, sees, and Executes. America, especially, with the vigour and exuberance of its wealth, its youth, and its climate, needs, for its existence development, locomotion, and commerce. The universal im- pression of advancement which permeates aU corners of the earth seeks our illimitable regions for their development and expan- sion. The magnetic needle of human progress points towards us, as the rudder directs a vessel. Meanwhile, what are men doing ? I have seen many in my country who have devoted themselves to objects of caprice, personal negotiations of con- venience, ostentation and luxury. Why do they not, for once, at least, dedicate those wasted talents to a work possessing such advantage tootu- country and the world ? Brazil, notwithstanding that her political condition has been spoken against in certain publications, has, though she has not noised the fact abroad, fourteen lines of steamers which ply in nearly aU parts of the country. The Government expends 4,500,000 dollars in fostering this line of communication and of 187 commerce. Who vrill doubt its co-operation and efforts for the navigation of the Madeira, when it has already determined to make an exploration upon that river ? With the eminently patriotic and progressional genius of the present emperor, Dom. Pedro II., it cannot be doubted that the enterpri'se will be patronised and protectied. What is now lacking is that Bolivia should make a cessation of her political squabbles, and, what- ever party be in poWer, lend her assistance, negotiate a treaty of commerce, and nrfake effective its right over the Madeira, as master of the sources which form this river.* Commerce will revive the ^dormant riches which are now valueless for want 0f an exit ; demand will inspire new vigour to labour, and, in vie"w of these blessings, dissents will be subdued, and politics will be stripped of its direful attractions. Hence- forth nb Bolivian will fail to recognise the reality and importance of the said navj{gability. All, like myself, will lift up their voices, and every year, every month, every day lost will seem a crime of errine humanity, because commerce is a benefit to the whole of ma;nkind. The Braziilian Empire has placed in communication and con- tact the immense line of circumvallation, which, from the central highlands of Mate Grosso, extends by the Parang and the La Plata, back along the Atlantic, and up the Amazon to the interior of Peril, as far as the port of Nauta and even Laguna. How little it lacks to complete the circuit of its boundaries ? The fahulous Madeira, whose providential waters penetrate the most auriferous regions in the world, in the Brazilian province of Mate Grosso, in Chiquitos, Chayanta, Choquecamata, Tipuani, ChuquiaguiUo, Los Cajones, etc., in Bolivia; descending in wide torrents from the heart of that republic, enriching its margins with the most valuable products, offering, in its enchanted valleys, the most poetical and picturesque localities, allowing the world to use the navigation of its waters, seems, by its roaring * In the year 1833, the Bolivian aovemment offered a prize of 10,000 dollars to the first steamer that, via the Eiver Plate or Amazon, should arrive at any of the free ports which had been declared available for the purpose in its -waters, and to allot, froia the riverine lands, plots of from one to a dozen leagues to the indiyiduals who should have made either of the two voyages. 188 surges, to protest against the negligeace of man. If, on ibc one tand, heavy expenditure and work are necessaiy,- on the other, the realization of this plan would confer very great advantages. Moreover, the progress and prosperity of the nation — what are they not worth ? How fair would the Empire of Brazil apj^ear on the map of the world if it could show that all its distric^B were connected by navigation, conveying to its widely-extended limits an ex- change of produce. And Bolivia, a central country, destined to be shut out to the eastward of the Andes chain, and endowed by Providence with the products and climates of all countries' — what life and impulse will, be achieved the dgy when, obedient to Nature, she fulfils her mercantile necessity and opens the roadway of its waters! Bolivia has no choice; she must go forwaxd, and the navigation of the Madeira is essential to her existence. Brazil cannot fear ; she has to foUow the impulse of the age, and be swayed by her duty and convenience. The immunities declared on the La Plata, demand from it equal rights for the Amazon. I rejoice if, by this feeble attempt of my patriotism, I bring about the navigation of the Madeira. Then would I bless my forced exile ; my privations and my sufferings as a man, and as a father. I woxild consider myself amply repaid. (Signed) QuiNTiN Quevedo. Belem do Para, April, 1861. NEW FLUVIAL OUTLET FOR BOLIVIA. BY SENOR YGNACIO ARAUZ. TRANSLATED FROM SPANISH JAS. WM. BARRY, SECRETARY OF THE MADEIRA AND MAMOEE RAILWAY COMPANY, LIMITED. The Most Excellent, COLONEL QUIN.TIN QUEVEDO, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary Of Bolivia, At the Court of Brazil and the 'Republics of La Plata. You, Sir, who, descending from the slopes of the Andes by clear sportive currents that subside into the placid waters of the Mamor^ and, afterwards, having been whirled along by the im- petuous torrents of the Madeira as far as the plateaux of the Amazon, were the first to adopt a new line of communication 'with the outer world, a route until then looked upon with dismay. Deign, Sir, to accept the badly-written lines that I annex, and which I have the honour of dedicating to you, re- questing that you will pardon their imperfection, and accept a work, the sole merit of which exists in the importance of its subject. Bolivia, crushed and desolated to-day by the affliction of civil war, will add to your history new insignia of glory and greater titles of gratitude, if, interposing the diplomatic character in which you represent her, and even by your personal influence, you bring about that the industrial world shall not lose sight of our Amazonian water-system, whereby they might bring us commerce and prosperity, receiving, also, a just remuneration for benefits so conferred. Receive, Sir, the most sincere demonstrations of respect of Your humble servant, YGNACIO ARAUZ. Man&OB, 24th February, 1868. NEW FLUVIAL OUTLET FOK BOLIVIA. The Republic of Bolivia, centrally situated, as it is, and inter- sected by various offshoots from the Andes, contains — although the fact is unknown to the industrial world — ^the most precious portion of its territory within its orient. Unless the unfor- tunately-placed inhabitants obtain benefits offered by com- mercial enterprise, they will remain deprived of the refining advantages of progress in all the various branches of social life. On the one hand, while Europe cultivates ideas of exalted progress, facilitates means of communication in all directions, as far as its most remote confines, while its ingenuity invents means of convenience for the most trifling wishes, and tills its almost sterile soil, so as to produce more than might be ex- pected from the nature of the locality ; on the other hand, the people in the eastern part of Bolivia, exuberantly rich though it is, in aU the kingdoms of nature, are obliged, in order to learn the complicated machinery of a steamer and the simple appa- ratus of a sail, to cross the mountain-chain of the Andes, and traverse the wide and arid desert of Atacama, exposed to suc- cumb through thirst, and suffering the rigour of inclement weather, in a march of more than 320 leagues, as far as Cobija. This is the real obstacle to the progress of Bolivia. We, Bolivians, owe to our liberator both our country and liberty ; but we, undoubtedly, do not owe him the benefits of a just territorial demarcation. The department of Santa Cruz, with its province of Chiquitos, and that of the Beni, situated in a vast plain, the limit of which, northwards, is yet unknown, but which extends south- wards as far as 22 deg., while the longitude extends -between (^0 194 deg. and 71 deg. from the meridian of Paris. There is only a population of 200,000 souls, who participate in the same benignity of climate, and, consequently, they enjoy the same productions. The inhabitants of the two last, which make the third part of this number, are indigenous, whose missions the Jesuits founded in the seventeenth century. This plain is immensely fertile, and can yield all the produc- tions of intertropical countries, where the severity of winter is unknown, where perpetual spring prevails, and where the gentle and fragrant showers freshen the air and moisten the earth ; so that, without hard work, the dibble of the agriculturist makes the hole that receives the seed, the products of which he will col- lect in abundance a few months afterwards. Two-thirds of the waters of Bolivia flow through this beautiful plain into all the rivers that form the Madeira, to which they give considerable importance, seeing that it flows into the Amazon. One of the principal branches of industry in the Department of Santa Cruz is the sugar which is produced for the consump- tion of the whole Republic; and the year that the crop is moderately abundant, the price goes down to less than one peso the arroba. This important production is raised by only a few cultivators, who are solicitous that their number should not be augmented, lest a greater quantity should be produced than is necessary for the national use, and a loss would, consequently, be incurred on all surplus stock. Who will deny that, the cause of this evil is the lack of means of exportation ? Ghiquitos,* besides the productions common in Eastern Bolivia, produces white wax, which is employed effieaciously in surgery, is also indispensable in the tributes to our religious culture, and which is cultivated, in a niggardly manner, for the same reason as sugar, in the capital. In the town of San Javier, of this province, there are found gulches of gold, which the Indians wash easily in trays, and obtain sufficient to purchase themselves the simple tools which • A Province belonging to the Department of Santa Cruz. 195 they require for their work, and for which they pay exhorbitant prices, their clothes, and the earnestly-desired rum. From this source they manage to obtain the two pesos of personal tribute, which they pay the Government annually. The epoch of obla- tion having arrived, they retire on Monday to a distance of two leagues from the town, and on Saturday they return, so as to deliver, on Sunday, the two adarmes * of gold, which make up that value, bringing, at the same time, a surplus which they devote to feasting for one or two days. Let it be noted, more- over, that, during the expedition, they employ half the day in hunting, in order to sustain themselves. It will be easily understood that the indolent life that these wild children of nature lead is owing to the abundance where- with nature has supplied them. The Indian who has a cliaco t of 100 yards square, sown with banana, has this fruit, without any further operation than to gather some daily, for the whole of his life, and even for his descendants ; and all that devolves on him is the necessity of occupying himself one week twice in the year in sowing equal portions with maize, mandioca, and occasionally rice, which they use but little, but which can be produced, like everything else, in superabundance. As regards meat, besides being the posses- sors of horned cattle that rapidly multiply, they have abundant chase, birds and quadrupeds in great variety, which they dexterously secure with the arrow. It is excusable to speak of the exuberance with which coffee and cotton are produced, as well in this province as in its capital, Santa Cruz ; this last-named having, moreover, a trade in the valuable tanned hides, and the most skilful manufacture of pure cigars, which, by reason of the excellent quality of the tobacco and its efficacious preparation, rival the best from Havana. Both articles are exported on a large scale to the shores of the Pacific ; but, in consequence of the costly transport, they are little utilised by speculators. There are also manu- factured jipijapa X hats, with perfect skill and consummate taste. * Ada/rme = half a drachm (16th part of an ounce) ; called in Brazil ro^ado. t Chaco is an Indian word, and means a clearing. % Chilian hats in Brazil. 196 The Department of the Beni, or the ancient Province of M6J0S, the emporium of natural wealth, situated on the north- east frontier of Brazil, is, now-a-days, the most important part- of this valley, the most desirable advantages of which areac- cessible to the hand that attempts to develop them. Steam, the powerful centre of creation, would convert fhe Beni, in less than five years, into an important commercial seat. Such are its elements. And what colossal fortunes would, at the same time, be amassed ! All the waters of Bolivia that, vid the Amazon, find their way to the sea have destined this pleasant valley as their point of meeting. The river Grande, which rises near Cochabamba,* and directs its course towards the south-east, in order to receive the waters in the north of Sucre,t afterwards wends towards Santa Cruz, increasing its bulk immensely in the transit. It passes at ten leagues to the east of this city, with a steady north-easterly course. The river Piray, which rises in the heights of Samaipata.J passes to the east, and, at less than a league from the same town, takes the same course as the river Grande, and assembles the waters of the west and north from the province of El Cer- cado; so that, at 32 leagues, where now exists the port of Cuatro Ojos, where, at present, -M6jos has a traffic with Santa Cruz by canoes, the river is already navigable by suitable steamers. At 30 leagues from this port it unites with the river Grande, and takes the name of the Sara. Twenty leagues further down it receives, from the left, the river Yapacani, larger than the Piray, and which is also formed of various streams from the towns of El Cercado, and is navigable from Santa Rosa. || The Coni rises in the heights of Cochabamba, and descends to the plain in a navigable body, since at eight leagues from the Cordillera lies the port of the Chapar4 which, offers communica- tion between Mojos and Cochabamba, this port being distant only 36 leagues from the capital of the last-named province; but, through the unpleasant nature of the road, this march on mule- * Cocliabamba, capital city of the Department of this name, f Sucre, capital city of the Republic. % Samaipata, a town belonging to Santa Cruz, situated to the west of the Cuesta de Petacas (Leather Trunk Hill). II Sf^nta Rosa, a towa situated at thirty leagues from Santa Cruz. 197 back becomes long and tedious. When the hand of Industrious man shall have changed it from the condition in which it is by nature, it will be short and convenient. Twelve leagues below this port, the river San Mateo flows in from the left. It has its head-waters in the valley of the same city of Gochabamba. Sixty leagues farther, it unites with the Chimord, which. contributes a double \olume of water, and is formed of the river Surutu, which rises in the hill-chain of Petacas. It passes by the town of Buena Vista, of the province of El Cercado de Santa Cruz, and, receiving the river Pampa- Grande, called Rio Negro, comes parallel to the Coni. So close is it, that, from the port of the Chapard to the mission called Chimore, which is upon the river of this name, there are only two leagues. It is very noteworthy that Mojos has its communication with Gochabamba by way of the Coni, which is smaller, and at its ebb exhibits some small cascades, and not by tlie Chimor4 the main channel of which is perfectly well known, and does not offer impediment. The rivers Sara and Chimore then unite to form the Mamor^, which is the chief fluvial channel of Bolivia, with a steady depth of more than 15 metres, and a width of more than 400, pre- senting to vieW( either the most leafy woods imaginable, or beautiful plateaux, rife with the most picturesque perspective, where the man who for the first time visits these solitary plains, however unimpressionable he may be, laust, at least, contem- plate with sensations of wonder the magnitude of nature. What a marked difference exists between so vast a longitude and latitude, which comprises the eastern part of Bolivia, in- habited by only 200,000 souls, and Europe, where a hand- breadth of land has its value in gold ; between the benignity of the climate which offers the constant spring-tide of that level tract, and the desolatory winter of Europe ! I regret profoundly my inability to furnish better data to the public respecting the riches which now lie hidden from the gaze of the world of enterprise. Following the Mamord, then, it will be found that, twenty leagues from its origin, it receives, on the left, the river Se'cure, 198 which rises in the province lying north of the Department of Cochabamba, and is almost equal to the former * Facing this confluence, and on the right bank of the Mamore, at a distance of seven leagues, is the first town of M6jos^Loreto. Twelve leagues farther do^vn, and at two from the river margin, lies the town of Trinidad, capital of the department. On the same right bank, at five and seven leagues, are Tound San Javier and San Pedro, standing as far from the river as the capital does. Descending eight leagues from this town, the river Tijamuchi flows in on the left. This offers communication with the town of San Ignacio, which is situated on this side, and at 20 leagues from the Mamore. At twelve leagues farther, on the same side, we find the river Apere, which has its head-waters in the mountain-range towards Cochabamba. Four leagues onwards we have the river Yacuma, which has its head-waters at four leagues from the river Beni, the waters of which, not being able to flow into this by reason of the intervening hills, take a fixed direction from west to east. It would be very feasible to unite both rivers by means of this canal ; this will, no doubt, be done some day. By means of it the other towns can be communicated with, such as Reyes, which is situated at seven leagues from the river Beni, and Santa Ana, which is only distant four leagues from the Mamord Proceeding down the Mamore, twelve leagues lower, lies the town of Exaltacion, which is built on the river-margin. All the towns named, except Reyes, produce cacao for the whole Republic, and would be capable of supplying all America if they devoted themselves, I will not say to cultivating, but merely to sowing it ; since from the junction of the Chimore with the Sara, which, as I have said, forms the Mamor^ as far almost as its confluence with the Amazon, there exist alono- the banks groves of wild cocoa-trees, the abundant fruit of which is positively neglected. Such indifference is not to be attributed solely to the indolent nature of the people, but to the plentiful supply. The average annual crop of cocoa in the Department * This river was explored by the scientific French traToUcr, M. D'Orbigny, ■who embarked in the vicinity of Cochabamha.] of the Beni, is from twenty to twenty-five thousand arrohm ;* in which case the indian proprietors sell this product to export- ers, at from ten to twelve reaM the arroha. If the crop reaches thirty thousand arrobas, thuysell it at one peso (eight reals) per arroba ; and, folio wiug this proportion, if the crop is doubled, the price descends to one-half. This circumstance is exceedingly disagreeable to those who see their labour repaid with only half its value. Besides the eight towns already mentioned, there are San Joaquin, San Ramon, Magdalena, San Jose, Concepcion de Baure^s, and El Carmen, scattered over the immense and level tract forming the right bank of the Mamord. All these places are advantageously situated upon branches of this river. The actual productions of these towns are coffee, cotton, and tobacco of the best quality ; the first is sparingly cultivated, for the same reason we have mentioned in the case of the cocoa, and the cotton is limited to the demand for the manufacture ■ of hammocks, towels, ponchos (cloaks), and church-apparel common to the country, which are exported to Santa Cruz, and the ponchos as far as the Argentine Republic. The means which they use for working the cotton are of a primitive nature. The cotton is coniibed out by hand, and spun on a spindle after the same fashion, so that an expert workman, working steadily, spins one ounce per day, so that in sixteen days one pound of thread will be prepared, sufficient to make one short pair of trousers, which they weave in a frame. This takes two weeks. Afterwards they are washed, pressed, and sold for twelve reals. When they are woven in a loom the operation is shorter, but the value is also considered inferior. In the neighbourhood of Concepcion de Baurds a rich gold-mine has been discovered, in the hill of San Simon, from which, so sayi»»tradition, the Jesuits derived a large quantity of this metal. Some companies are now occupied in placing machinery for working this mine, which experienced foreigners assert to be richer than California; and if to this circumstance is added the large number of available labourers, who receive the small pay of half a real per day, and the abun- * An amla. is twenty-flve pounda English weight. t One real is, worth nearly flvepence English money. 200 dance of provisions, the prices of which are in proportion to the pay, it will be seen that a favourable result cannot for a moment be doubted. The Amazon valley, which I have just described, is pastural as well as agricultural, and possesses, in an eminent degree, facilities for the farmer. The existence of wild homed cattle, that propagate rapidly, would be enough to make the fortunes of thousands of inhabitants who might colonize these vast dis- tricts. These cattle belong to the State, and by its order any one can have a herd of two hundred head allotted to him, pro- vided he intends to devote himself to pastural pursuits, at the cost of six pesos per year. In accordance with this law, more than two hundred allotments have been granted. The abundance of the best kinds of building and cabinet woods, rubber, ipecacuanha, jalap, the herb maU* indigo, which grows wild, constitutes a real source of wealth. The culture of the sugar-cane deserves admiration. The cultivation of maize (corn), rice, mandioca (a root from which flour is made), pine- apple, water-melon, and a variety of vegetables and other nutritive products can be easily effected ; and it scarcely ever happens that the crops prove a failure. The gold and diamond gulches at Santo Corazon de Chjquitos, the immense agricul-- tural and pastural lands, are riches which Bolivia offers to the world in exchange for colonization and industry. Twenty leagues farther down from Exaltacion there is the ' mouth of the Guapor^ or Itdnes, which, descending from Mato- Grosso, is enriched by all the waters of the province of Chiqui- tos, whence it rolls majestically onwards to join the Mamord. This beautiful river, which waters the slopes of the hill of San Simon, will, doubtless, be the nucleus of the emigTation that will be drawn thither by the presence of the rich gold-mine. Proceeding thirty leagues down the double volume of the Mamor^ Guajara-Merim is reached. It is a small rapid, and presents no difficulty, since the channel to the left would easily allow a steamer of large draught to pass. At this spot ipecacu- anha, a highly valuable medicinal root, is found in abundance. * In the to-^'n of Buena Yista, twenty leagues from Santa Cjuz, Sol Two leagues more, and the first part of the rapid of Guajara- Guassli is reached. This is the point from which a lateral road will most probably be made to branch off, and thus friendly- relations between Bolivia and this vast Empire will be esta- blished. Descending the rapids Bananeiras, Pao Grande, and Lages, at the distance of five leagues, the Beni flows in on the left. This river rises in the Department of La Paz; and, in the form of a stream of but little importance, flows through the city of this name. Afterwards, however, being enriched by the numerous torrents whicli descend from the Cordillera (mountain- range), as well as several rivers flowing down from Perii, among which may be reckoned the Madre de Dios, which, descending from the Department of Cuzco,* and known among the Indians under the name of Manu, flows into the Beni, forty leagues before its confluence with the Madeira. It is probable that the Madre de Dios offers free navigation from Cuzco, as far as its junction with the Beni ; since, in 1861, it was explored, on behalf of the Peruvian Government, by a Senor Maldonado, who fell' a victim to his patriotic daring at the rapid of the Madeira, called Caldeirao do Inferno, only two of the crew being with difficulty saved. It is much to be re- gretted that such an important expedition failed, since in the wreck were lost the documents which should give information regarding this new route, which interests Peru as well as Bolivia and Brazil. From what can be gathered from the ignorant boatmen, we learn that there are numerous fierce hordes of wild Indians along the whole extent of the Madre de Dios. I regret to be obliged to acknowledge that the river Beni, although the most convenient channel whereby the north of Bolivia might communicate directly with the world, has remained unknown in the most important part of its course, namely, from its confiuence with the Madeira for about sixty leagues, as far as the mission of the Cabinas Indians. From here upwards, the country contains many of these missions, which, entrusted to the spiritual and temporal care of European friars, are making admirable progress. In 1846, the Government of the Kepublic, in the belief that * Cuzco, capital oity of the Department of this name in Perd. 202 it was conferring an inestimable benefit on the Department of the ^eni, ordered the exploration of the unknown portion of this important river. The task was entrusted to incompetent hands, the only result being that much money was expended, and the discovery made that there were merely three rapids below the confluence of the Madre de Dios, and that these channels are available for steamers of medium draught. Accord- ing to information obtained from the Chacobos,* there is, along its banks, an abundance of rubber, ipecacuanha, sarsapariUa, copaiba, vanilla, and Peruvian bark (quina caUsaya) ; and the missionaries assert that these missions are situated over rich lodes of various metals. A treaty, made between Brazil and Bolivia, has been announced, the bases of which are amity, com- mercial limits, navigation, and extradition ; and it is to be hoped that this treaty, adjusted, no doubt, with clear foresight and mutual good feeling, will establish firm relations between both countries, so that, instead of leaving sanguinary strifes to our posterity, Bolivia will imperishably prolong the memory of the illustrious Minister, His Excellency General Melgarejo, and confer ceaseless praises on His Excellency Lopes Neto. * A wild but docile tribe, inhabiting the angle between the rivers ■ Beni and Madeira. VOYAGE MADE PROM THp; CITY OF THE GRAM PARA MOUTH OF THE RIVER MADEIRA BY THE EXPEDITION WHICH ASCENDED THIS llIVEIl TO THE MINES OF MATO GROSSO. UY SPECIAL OKUEK OP HIS FAITHFUL MAJESTY, IN THE YEAli 1749 ; WKITTEN BY JOSE GONSALVES DA FONSECA, IN THE SAME YEAR. PUBLISHED BY THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES OF LISBON. 1826. [Tra/nslated froin I'ortiiriacse by Jam"es William Barry, Hccreiary of the Mxdeira and Mamdre EmhoOAi Company, Limited,'] A VOYAGE THE CITY OF GRAM PARA AS PAE AS THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER MADEIRA. The canoes of his Majesty started on the 14th of July from the port of the City of Gram Para, with the intention of making a vpyage on the River Amazon, and from this to ente,r its affluent, the Madeira, along the south bank, and to make for the military stations of Mato Grosso, in accordance with the orders of our Lord the King. The start was effected on the day named, taking the direction of the river named Mojti, which flows in at two hours' journey from Par£ Aided by a favourable tide, the river Mojii was entered, explored, with a S.S.W. course, shifting afterwards to the S.W. The tide beginning' to run down, a pause was made for the next up-tide, with which the voyage was continued with a W.S.W. course, as far as the mouth of the Igarapemerim, wh^re we arrived at about two o'clock on the afternoon of the 1.5th. This Igarapdmeriin traverses the delta between the river Moju and the Tocantins. The entrance to this valley is so narrow that it hardly affords passage to a large canoe, and con- tinues thus for the distance of half a league, when it begins to open out into beautiful basins, the banks of which are inhabited by settlers w^.o own plantations oifmiv-lm {^a, cereal frpra wjiicl^ 206 a kind of flour is obtained), sugar-cane, and cac^o ; and the river proceeds as far as a bay named Marapat^ which is at the mouth of the river Tocantins. Entering the said Igarapd- merim we navigated to the W.N.W., and, with this direction, arrived at the bay already mentioned. There is also another route from the city to this bay ; namely, to pass between the large island of Joannes, which lies to the west, and the coast of the delta g,lready alluded to. But this way, although shorter, is rather unsafe on account of sand- bants and rocks, and being without shelter from storms which generally occur in the evening, and render this coast very dangerous. In order to navigate in this vicinity it is necessary to employ natives of the country as pilots. Nevertheless, the Indians, in the neighbouring towns of Murtigura and Sumauma, navigate it at all hours in small canoes ; since, if the sea swells, they lighten their canoe and proceed on their way, and if they cannot do this, they always save their lives iDy swimming. Having arrived at the bay of Marapata, it is necessary to cross to the land opposite, in order to find the islands lying between that of Joannes and the mainland to the eastward. However, as it was requisite, to obtain indians from the village of Parej6, adjoining the town of Camuta, we coasted along the bay to the left, ascending the Tocantins which we navigated, steering south- south-west, and then south, which is the true course. After sailing for eight hours, we entered some channels that form numerous islands, amongst which we journeyed for six hours. We then struck across for the town of Camuta, occupying three hours in crossing from the east bank to the west. This town is situated in 2 .deg. 40 min. south latitude, on the margin of the Tocantins, on a site but slightly elevated to the westward, where there is a plain of sufficient extep.t to build a better town than the present one, which consists of a small street of unpretending houses, and only two of them covered with tiles. There is a church, but it is a plain and poorly-built edifice. There is also a hospital of Mercenaries, which is not a better specimen of architecture than the church, but it affords greater facility for divine worship. 207 The inhabitants live on their cleared plantations, on which they grow the maudioca-plant, cac^o, and tobacco. They like- wise manufacture a large quantity of oil, which they usually extract from a species of chestnut which they gather on the islands. This oil is used in their lamps, and is called ancUroba. It is manufactured throughout the state. The air of the river Tocantins is salubrious ; the views are delightful ; the waters of the river exceedingly clear and pleasant-tasted, — they, however, produce, in those accustomed to imbibe them, the terrible disease known as " gravel," since they possess an extremely subtle power of petrifaction. The -river abounds with fish, and the banks and islands with every kind of game, while the natives enjoy that fertility which nature spontaneously offers to them ; and they might increase the utility of the products obtainable, if they cultivated the land with care. The soil on either margin is admirably adapted for any phase of agTicultural industry. The river Tocantins rises in a vast plateau, which extends from east to west across Brazil ; and in the vicinity of its headwaters are to be found the mines of Goiaz, Maranhao, San Felis, Nati- vidade, Corixas, and others, from all of which there are streams flowing into the Tocantins. From the said town of Camuta, we went in search of the village Parej6, which, at a distance of nearly one league, is situated on the same tract of land towards the north. We em- barked some Indians from this village. They are held in the highest estimation as rowers. We" navigated among the islands with a northerly course, and made for the Igarape do Limoeiro, which is a portion of water similar in character to the Igarapd- m'erim above mentioned. The canoes took this route, thus avoid- ing a journey along the bank, this being dangerous work, as at Mortigura. We entered this Igarape with a north-easterly coutse. It has a,n outlet fronting the island of Marajd Between the latter a&d the mainland, where the said Igarap^ discharges itself, there is a vast number of islands, lying in different directions, while channels and bays divide one from the other. Along these canoes pass, seeking to regain- their right course; steering northwards for the island of Joannes, or turning eastward for the village of Araticu. The journey to this island ■ o 2 208 — on which the said village is situated^was accomplished by the canoes of the escort in twelve hours, sailing and rowing. Thence we turned northwards to the large island of Joannes, which we approached from the east, where that island borders on the district of Amazonas. We made observations, and found ourselves to be in 2 deg. 12 min. south latitude. We afterwards turned our course west and west-south-west, to the village of Aricur6, which is situated towards the west, and we arrived there after ten hours' sail. From this village, sailing south-west and south-south-west, we arrived, in three hours, at Aracura, a village lying to the east, in the district of Ca,muta, on the main- land. All these villages are missioned by fathers of the " Com- panhia de Jesus," and were formerly inhabited by indians called Ingahibas. They were catechised in the forests by the very celebrated Father Antonio Vieira, a member of the same re- ligious order. Descendants of this tribe still remain. The navigation between the villages is all carried on among the islands, and in order to form an idea of the vast sea in which they are found it is necessary to be informed that the mighty river Amazon, sweeping down towards the island of Joannes, becomes divided into two branches : one, the greater, flows northwards to the ocean between the said large island and the mainland of the Cabo do Norte ; the smaller one, turning south- ward, mingles its waters with the rivers Xingli and Pacajaz. These waters, being thus united, form a large number of channels, bays, and estuaries, between the islands referred to ; and, passino' between the mainland to the eastward and the coast of Joannes towards the west, they flow into the ocean between the said island and the district of Para, carrying with them, at the same time, the waters of the Tocantins, Mojti, Acard, and others already mentioned. The number of islands to be found in all this space — if only a third part of them be reckoned habitable would make an archipelago, more celebrated than any of the four so famous in the world's history. But nearly all the islands are inundated in the rainy season, by the overflowing of the rivers, and, during the whole of that period, they are uninhabitable. Nevertheless, there is in them an abundance of game and faima but all the flora is wild and nearly useless, However, the laavi' ^09 gatioii of its canals and bays is puzzling, ,since the forest ' con- tinues throughout th6 labyrinth of waters. Moreover, the boats are subject to great risks from sand-banks and rock-shoals in the said canals, except during the prevalence of thunder-storms, when the tide rises considerably. In the villages in question, which are generally known as B6cas, the Indians required as rowers for the canoes were promptly obtained, and straightway the journey was continued to Tajupurti, in a north-easterly direction. The Tajupurl com- prises a number of islands, disposed in such a way that, in con- sequence of the smaller branch of the Amazon, combined with the waters of the Xingii, it forms various rivers, which all empty themselves into the bays and estuaries already mentioned, which were navigated in search of the villages of Bocas, as we' have stated above. We arrived ,at the principal mouth of the Tajuplirti, and entered it with a north-north-easterly course. We ascended it, sailing and rowing, for two days, steering north for the most part of the time ; and, ultimately taking the wBst-south-west, made for the western frontier, to some islands which lie almost north and south. Between these and the islands of Tajupuru there can be little more than a league in distance. Here the water of the Xingu flow in from the south and the smaller arm of the Amazon — which they join towards the north, being after- wards divided among the islands which form the above-men- .tioned Tajupurli, at the entrance of which the observation was made — is situated in 55 min. south latitude. Three roads can be made from this part — one' northwards, to Macapa and the Cabo do Norte, and round the headland to Caena, a French colony ; another, returning from the west, might be made to enter the Amazon, where there is a greater abundance of water and a tolerable amount of danger ; the third road would be southwards, to the fortified station of Gurup^, This is the route generally adopted by canoes that ascend into the interior. The escort followed this route, coasting along the mainland to, the left, steering south-south-west and west-south-west, fol- lowing the natural indentations. After twelve hours' journey, with 210 sail and oar, we reached the military cantonment of Santo Antonio do Gurupa, situated on the mainland referred to, in 1 deg. 46 min. south latitude. This place is th§ reporting-station for canoes, whether on the up or down journey to or from the interior. At this outpost there is a chief captain as commandant, provided by his Majesty. The garrison consists of eighteen men and a captain, and other subordinate officers. It takes eleven days to reach this station from Para, which is, approximately, at a dis- tance of ninety-one leagues. About a cannon-shot from the said station there is a village of Indians who are used for garrison work. This place is missioned by the Capuchin Friars of the Province de Piedade. There was a tolerable number of Indians located there, but repeated attacks of small-pox and measles have swept down many persons of both sexes and all ages. Navigating from the mouth of the Tajupurd towards Gurupa, the above-mentioned islands lie to the right, stretching from north to south, partly taking the directions of the rivers which traverse the mainland to the left, between which and the said islands there is a beautiful river of more than a league wide, formed by the water proceeding from the river Xingu, which flows into the Amazon among the islands in question. They are situated between the two branches, occupying more than two leagues in width, and are admired by all who visit the mouth of the Xingu, as will be gathered from this narrative. The islands referred to, which are generally called Gurupa, are uninhabitable, because all are subject to inundations in the rainy season, and, notwithstanding so great a drawback, they contain a vast abundance of wild game, such as pacas, corias, deer, boars, etc. They contain, also, a vast quantity of cadio- trees, from which the inhabitants, not only of those districts, but also of Para, gather fruit during the season ; and, were it not for the mischievous practice of stripping the trees before the fruit has become ripe, the crop that might be collected from these islands would, in a plentiful year, be sufficient to load several canoes. Starting from Gurupa, we sailed to the west-south-westj between the coast and the islands, and, after ten hours' sail, we 211 Mrived at the village of Aarapejo, whicli stands on the main- land. It is situated on a plateau at the summit of a high bank. This, village is missioned by the Capuchins of Piedade. The population consists of 300 persons of both sexes. We then visited another village, at which we arrived after a voyage of a little more than two hours, with the same course. It is situated on the same continent as the one already alluded to, and is called Caviana. This place is also under the administra- tion of the Capuchins. The population consists of 200 persons of both sexes. From this village we continued our voyage, with the same course of west-south-west, between the mainland, on the left, and the islands, which continue oh the right. The height of the locality gives command of a wide view of waters, which form several bays of almost two leagues across, extending from portions of the islands to the mainland. On the latter there is a settle- ment, called Boavista,* consisting of some sevpn or eight inhabi- tants. The locality is so pleasant and the surroundings so pretty, that the name has been well bestowed. After five hours' journey we reached the village named Muturu, situated on the same margin as the aforesaid places, on a plain at the elevation of the water-level, near the mouth of the Xingti. The missionaries are of the Capuchin order of Piedade. Population consists of- 400 persons of both sexes. The mouth of the river presents a beautiful and pleasant view ; latitude, 2 deg. 7 min. south.' Among the great rivers which are collateral with the Amazon, the Xingu holds a prominent place, by reason of the vast body of water that it contributes. The best proofs of its importance are its width, depth, and the rapidity of its current. It flows from south to north. The source of this river is not yet accurately known, although at only the distance of a few days' journey. The reason of this is that the ascent is impeded by a number of formidable cachoeiras,f which deter the people of Para from making the attempt, not- * Note by Translator. — Boavista signifies heautijul view. t NoTE-RY Trakslatob. — Cachoekas is an indian term for rapids and falls in a river. 212 withstandinar that several foreigners — who are located m the village with the Jesuit mis^onaries — venture to do so m tne season, and they annually gather a large quantity of cloves along the banks, with which commodity a trade is carried on. However, the position of the outlet, and the direction in which the river flows, give reason to believe that, between the sources of the rivers Tocantins and Tapajos, which are parallel to it, rise the rivers Bacatis and Mortes, which, uniting, form an immense volume of water at its mouth ; and, between the two mentioned parallels, there is no greater outlet than that of the XingA. It is probable that the Bocatis and Mortes have their headwaters in the same locality, to the north of- the Cordilheira Geral, as the Tocantins and Tapajos, which are all tributaries of the Amazon. The waters of this river Xingu appear on the surface to be black. On being struck with the oar they exhibit very small crystals, which break away. Such is its clearness that, from its banks, one can see whatever is in it to the depth of a fathom. It may be inferred from this narrative that the Amazon has not been properly navigated to this place, on account of the large number of islands separating its waters from those of the Xingu. With this object the voyage here described was under- taken. From the said village of Muturu the canoes started southwards; then, turning westward, we made for the bank, to -the place where a river named Akeky flows in. It is a tributary of the Amazon, which, flowing in by two mouths in the . mainland, shortly afterwards blends its waters with those of the Xing6, near its outlet. We sailed up the Akeky, steering west, west-north-west, and north-west. At a distance of four hours' journey a river called Jarauku flows in. It rtms parallel with the Xingu, but is far smaller. Its whole coiu-se lies among hill-ranges, except near itg outlet, where the land becomeslevel. There are some cacho- eiras in this river. It abounds with fish, and along its banks, as far as the cachoeiras, clove-trees are plentiful. After passing the mouth of this river we continued our jour- ney, steering in the same direction, and, wearied with travel, we 'ZVi halted for the night, and experienced the first onslaught of ^u innumerable host of mosquitoes, which, like torrents of rain, pour down upon the navigators. Although we did not suffer so much as the Egyptians in the time of stubborn Pharaoh, these insects gave lots of opportunities for the exercise of patience, so that the boatmen, not being able to endure their attacks, we resolved to continue the journey, since it was not a perilous one. At seven o'clock the following morning, after twenty-one hours' journey altogether, we arrived,, with a northerly course, at one of the estuaries formed by the branch of the Amazon already re- ferred to, and then we beheld the mighty Amazon in all its vast grandeur. Facing this outlet, towards the north, we observed a hill-range. On the slope of the hills stood the fortress of Par6, after which the hill-range and coast are named, as far as Macap^, on the road to the Cabo do Norte. The chain of hills referred to runs in this direction, that is to say, west-south-west. This name also extends further northwards. These hills along the west bank of the Amazon appear to be of a formidable size. They stretch along, with here and there a valley interposed, even more sterile than the hills themselves, seeing that the latter contain a tcilerable amount of parsley and cacao, while the former do not even afford a sufficiency of water for the use of persons from Pari, who assemble there during the season of gathering those products. There is a wide-spread rumour that gold is to be found in these hills ; but no regular or definite examination has been made. From these hills proceed the rivers which discharge themselves along the coast of Macap&,, such as the Jari, Tuere, Vramucli, Cutipurli, Arauari, and others, towards the interior, from the Cabo do Norte. This range also gives rise to some rivers beyond that cape, namely, Vicente Pinson, Japoco, and others of less importance, to the east and west of Cape Orange, on the coast of Caiena. Starting from the mouth of the Akeky to the Amazon — which, with justice, can hardly be called a river — one has to coast along the eastern part, which lies on the left when on a west-south-westerly course, and the hills on the opposite strip of land are in sight the whole way. After eight hours' journey we ^14 arrived at a place which the natives call Mauari-ajura-p^a, being named after a channel which the river forms between the main- land and an island towards the south, and which can be navi- gated with the same course. From this channel the Amazon branches out, passing some land in the midst of that portion of W3,ter that, joined to the said Akeky, forms the river of that name, which affords an entrance to the Amazon by the mouth of the Xingii. The journey on the Amazon, as far as the mouth of the Mauari, occupied fourteen hours, during which, by sail and oar, an approximate distance of ten leagues had been traversed, after making the necessary deductions on account of the current. In continuing the journey from Mauari it is advisable to start early. The momiugs are generally clear, a . very important feature, by reaipon of .the swampy shallows, near which, even with an ordinary wind, the water is exceedingly boisterous, though the hindrance is greater to those who are navigating down- stream, since, in that case, the wind proves contrary. For this reason, in order to avoid any unfortunate accident, a start is made soon after midnight, and the coast is skirted, while rowing with a west-south-westerly course, until daybreak, and after that the sails are set. After eight hours' journey an island is arrived at, lying in the same direction, and extending further to the north-east. We, therefore, coasted along this island, in order to cross the Amazon. This we effected after four hours' delay. The canoes having been transported to the other side of the Amazon, we entered the river Vrubu-quara, in search of a village of that name, where, after three hours' journey, we found a har- bour. This river is an offshoot from the Amazon to the north- west. For a distance of six hours' journey the river extends itself into various lakes while traversing a wide plateau along the slope of some hills which form part of the Cordilheira do Paru. These hills, deflecting from the river-margin, continue towards the interior in three branches. The lakes referred to become so wide and deep in the rainy season that they are navi- gable for larger vessels than canoes. The river abounds with alligators aiid water-snakes of great size, called sucurujus, 21S gifeoias, and boia-iissu. Etery variety of fish produced in, the Amazon is plentiful here. The above-named village is situated in 2 deg. 20 min. .south latitude, on an elevated plain, the ascent to which is laborious, and occupies half an hour. Half way up, a beautiful spring flows out from" a rock. The water is exceedingly clear, pleasant to the taste, and possesses diuretic qualities. From this plateau various hills can be seen towards the north and east; while southwards may be observed groves, lakes, and plains, the whole affording a delightful and entertaining panorama. This village is missioned by the Fathers of Santo Antonio da Provincia da Extremadura. There is a considerable number of Indians among the inhabitants ; but there was an insufficiency of house-accom- modation, in consequence of a recent fire. The houses being constructed of wood and straw, the slightest spark suffices to reduce to ashes, in a few moments, a large habitation of this description. We occupied fifteen hours, sailing and rowing, in going from the mouth of the Mauari to this village, an approximate dis- tanice of ten leagues. From the village of Vrubu-quara we made for the Amazon, returning along the same route by which we entered ; and, starting towards the parent-stream, we kept along the west bank, which lay to our right, with a west-south-westerly course. After fourteen hours' journey we arrived at a village called Gurupa-. tuba, the entrance to which is by a channel similar to the fore- going in everything but the extent of the lakes, those of Gurupatuba being far greater than those of Vrubu-quara. If we are to rely on the statement of the Indians, there exist in these lakes certain serpents of such an enormous size that, with the exception of the whale, no other known animal in the ocean possesses such bulk. The village referred to stands on a height in the middle of a plain, and is skirted towards the north and west by trees. The country to the south and east is eminently beautiful, since a view is obtained of all those level tracts wherein the Amazon expands itself to form the above-mentioned lakes. The eye beholds a delightful panorama, consisting of a number of lakes 21« bordered by trees of dense foliage, the horizon to the east being closed by lofty hills, which are sufficiently distant to produce a picturesque effect. Towards the south- may be seen a portion of the Amazon sweeping throughout the whole extent of the vast plain, which seems surrounded, as if by art, with that crystalline adornment which Nature spontaneously lavishes in order to render beautiful the whole of that most pleasant country. This village is populated by tribes of Indians who are justly celebrated for their adaptability to all kinds of work. These Indians are even gifted with a curious talent for making various ornaments for the use of the people, more especially painted vases, (called cuia), washed with a resin distilled from trees by way of varnish, which resists every kind of liquor that may be boiled in it. In order to better understand the nature of this manufac- ture, it is necessary to say that cuia is a kind of fruit like a round water-melon (melancia globosa), but in quality resembling the calabash, but the husk is harder, and the interior more compact. It is the produce of a tree called cuieira, which is not large nor bushy. It is like the pomegranate in the ramification of the branches and the shape of the leaves. The cuias are gathered of various sizes. These are split diametrically, and the contents extracted until the interior is made as smooth as the convex surface outside, the husk being left of about the thickness of a piastre (plataca). These husks, when well dried, are ornamented with various paintings on both sides,^ and washed over with a kind of gum-varnish, which is distilled from the trees of the country. This preparation polishes and fixes paintings, so that they are used for ordinary purposes by the Indians and other inhabitants. After a stoppage of twenty-four hours at this village, which is missioned by the Fathers of the Piedade, and after furnishing ourselves with Indians and provisions, we started in the canoes by night towards the Amazon, so that by dawn we might com- mence the navigation of the coast called Cuieiras, which is rather dangerous because it affords no shelter in case of thunder-storms, and any high wind would drive the canoes on shore, so that they might easily become a total wreck. About four o'clock in the morning we began to coast, steering south-west and south ; and. 217 after eight hours' journey, rowing, we rested for the space of one hour. After continuing to navigate for seven hours with the same points, the canoes arrived at an igarapd, or vall^, the only shelter which there is in the whole of that distance. This igarap^ is called Cuieiras. We proceeded twelve leagues that day. On the following day, at daybreak, we left this place, and, proceeding to the south-west, arrived, after six hours' journey, sailing and rowing, at the islands which stretch across the river. By passing from one to another of these a passage might be effected across the river without danger, so as to enter the mouth of the river Tapaj6s, which we reached about five o'clock in the afternoon, and moored the canoes alongside the fort. During eleven hours' journey, we went nine leagues altogether, including four expended in crossing. From the fort of Gurup£ to the Tapajds we traversed in eight days an approximate dis- tance of seventy-five leagiies. The Tapaj6s is rather a large river, and is a league wide at the mouth. It flows from south to north, running parallel to the Xing. At a distance of five days' journey from its mouth there is a large number of rapids, which are very difficult to traverse when going up stream. The locality is said to be soifie-, what unhealthy, in consequence of the climate, and the exhala- tions from the water; but it has not been properly substantiated whether the cause of the many ailments which are ordinarily contracted by those who proceed thither to collect produce arises from impure air or the proximity of the rapids. Near its headwaters, it is well known there are extensive prairies, which are called Paracizes, a name given to a neighbouring tribe, which to-day is extinct, through having on one occasion put to flight and destroyed, with extraordinary inhumanity, a people called Cuiabi, which, in repeated hordes, continued to make inroads into those wide plateaux in search of gold. These plains extend along the slope of the Cordilheira Geral, which runs from east to west between li deg. and 16 deg. south latitude. From this range descend the rivers Juina and Jezuena, the sources of which are in the same meridians as the Apord and Jahur. These rivers lie on the south side of the chain, find further eastward rise the pvers Ariuos, Suinidouro, mn which has to be traversed is converted into a sluggish abyss, so that, notwithstanding a depth of over three hundred fathoms, for the distance of almost a league, no current is perceptible. In this passage it is remarkably strong. The banks are one thousand fathoms apart. This channel, conipared with the expanse above and below it, appears like a Bosphorus, for it forms a narrow link between two sea-like portions of the river. The time now arrived to cross over to the fort. It was already broad daylight, and we proceeded along the east bank for a dis- tance sufficient to. allow for the swiftness of the current. We then turned inwards, and, bending to our oars with a north- easterly course, brought to, in a quarter of an hour, by the oppo- site bank, near the landing-stage for the said fort. This is situated on a slight declivity, in latitude 2 deg. 40 min. south. It is built of stockade-work, irregular in form, in addition to which the walls are breached in the angles, and the curtain skirting the river needs considerable repair. This fort is supposed to command the passage ; but, through the eleva- tion of the site, the guns of the artillery would be no more able to prevent contraband traffic than in the case of the castle of Almada, should the defence of the Tagus be entrusted to it. Smuggling-craft could navigate on the Amazon with security. This is the only height which stretches across the river suffi- ciently to serve as a key to the navigation, not only for the purpose of suppressing any attempt to transgress the laws, but also to serve as a stronghold incase of foreign invasion. ,The garrison of this fort consists of a captain, one lieutenant, a sergeant, and a company of soldiers, which is rarely complete. This detachment is furnished from the troops quartered at Pard. The hill-range, on which the above-mentioned fort stands, is distant rather more than a musket-shot from the water-side, and, ■with this iiiterYal, foUo>Ys the course of the Amagon as far 2^1 as the mouth of the river Trombetas, already alluded to, a distance of three leagues. . On the mainland-heights is a small Indian village, missioned by the Capuchin fathers of the Pro- vincia da Piedade. They have succeeded in converting gome of the Indians employed at the fort. Not long ago a number of these escaped to the wilds of the Trombetas, after having com- mitted various enormities and crimes, for which they deserved pu,nishment. It was necessary for the flotilla to stop two days at this fort, waiting for a supply of provisions which had been sent for to the village of Surubiii, obtaining which, we left that port on the 15th of September, about five o'clock in the afternoon ; and coast- ing to the right, -vnth a west-south-westerly course, we arrived in seven hours at the mouth of the river Trombetas, a distance of three leagues." Here we halted. This river tlows to the north-east, which is probably its main direction. It is not a large river, but abounds in cachoeiras. Hordes of wild Indians people its banks. With these there is but slight communication because of the difficulty in ascending the river. In the interior there is an abundance of excellent specimens of the finer kinds of wood, especially that named horapenima, which is capable of receiving as high and per- manent a polish as tortoiseshell. The action of water tends to greatly enhance the lustre. Very early on the morning of the 16th, we continued our journey, coasting to the west-south-west and south-west ; and, after twelve hours' journey, during which we travelled six leagues, we moored off a sandbank in the middle of the Amazon; the only one available for those navigating up stream at low water. From this point upwards, in the dry season, other such banks are observable, which, at the lowest level of the ebb, are of tremendous extent. 0n these sandbanks turtles are taken very plentifully, when, leaving the water, they sally forth to deposit their - eggs in the sand in «ucla vast numbers that they_cover a large portion of the localities. Persons not only from Para, but also from all parts of. the Amazon, encamp here with a double object in view : first, to catch turtles for their use ; and second, to collect from 222 the sand the buried eggs, from which an immense quantity of butter is manufactured and used throughout the whole of that vast country. This article is used as a substitute in all cases • where butter or oil is employed in Europe. The turtle-gathering is most extensively effected every year in the month of October ; and it is credible that if this destruc- tion were not made both upon the Amazon and its tributaries, so numerous would these animals become that they would notonly render that vast continent more fertile, but, in some parts, they would, render navigation more difficult than might be imagined. On the I7th we sailed al«ng the same west bank, with a west-south-westerly course, for rather more than an hour. We then struck across for the east bank, passing close by some islands which lie extended in the river, having their diameters parallel to its course. During that portion of the day which still remained we coasted to the left, .sailing in the same direction Ave have mentioned, and to the south-west. In eight hours we had proceeded five leagues with difficulty, because there was no wind, and the current was strong. In this latitude, on the west bank, is a lake called Jamundas, closely resembling those of Gurupatuba, Vrubuqiiara, etc., to which we have already dra^vn attention. A.t the mouth of .this lake there is a formidable whirlpool; and it is necessary to exercise great caution in passing to the village, also called Jamundaz, on the margin of the lake. This place is missioned by the Capuchin fathers of Piedade. This lake communicates with the mouth of the river Trombetas by an arm which is navigable, but not frequently used, through fear of falling into the said abyss, called by the natives caldeirdo (cauldron), and Jupiaz by the inland inhabitants. of Minas. On the following day we continued our journey, coasting to the left, sailing to the south-west, south, and again to the south- west, until we came to our proper course of west-south-west ; and, after journeying for ten hours, we had traversed seven leagues, the wind having been favourable, and by nightfall the flotilla arrived at a hill which rises on the margin of the Amazon to a greater height than that of Pauxis, and for a considerable distance does not present any declivity, rising abruptly to a great 228 height, the gorges abounding in shrubs and thick vegetation, while the summit is crowned with a close forest of virgin growth. On the 19th, scudding along the same coast with a good wind, with the points of west-south-west, west, and west-north-west, within sight of the peaks which skirt the river on that side, the squadron arrived, in seven hours, during which time we traversed five leagues, at the mouth called Abacaxis. Here the flotilla halted. This mouth of the Abacaxis is more properly a smaller opening of the river Madeira. Since it is a branch which the latter throws off to receive the contribution of various rivers, streams, and a large number of lakes, as it proceeds on its way to the Amazon, into which it falls with a width of four hundred fathoms at its mouth. Along this the flotilla did not pass, because the settlers of the village called Abacaxis which used to be on that branch have removed to the main body of th'e Madeira. Here it was necessary to resort, and, for this purpose, we were obliged to continue the navigation of the Amazon, in search of the chief mouth of the Madeira. Thus, on the 20th, coasting to the left in the directions of west-south-west and west-north-west, up to four o'clock in the afternoon, it was then necessary to cross to the west margin, in order to avoid the navigation of the very wide bays which lay along the east. The passage across lies between islands, and the journey is attended with great difficulty, because the channels formed by the river among these islands are not convenient, while the river at that spot is exceedingly wide. After an hour of our transverse journey, with a northerly course, we reached the first island, and, passing through the channel, we stopped at the second, since night was already drawing on. That day after thirteen hours' journey, we accomplished seven leagues. At daybreak on the 21st, we continued on our way, proceeding from island to island, until nine o'clock in the morning. We then began to coast along the west bank, steering north-north- west, west-south-west, and, finally, south ; and, after ten hours' journey, during which we had gone six leagues, the flotilla drew up in a bay which lies at the mouth of a little river, which flows into the Amazon between two rocky promontories, where the , waters are considerably broken. p 2^ ■2'2i On the 22iid, contiiiuing tlic navigation with the same Boutherly course, we passed shortly afterwards to the south-west ajid south-south-west, until we arrived among some islands, where we halted, taving accomplished seven leagues in twelve hours. On the 23rd we found it necessary to wait for a canoe which had been delayed, and as we did not wish to lose the tiiae in idleness, orders were given to jS.sh in the several large lakes that exist in these islands. The result was that we obtained an abundance of fish, sufficient to supply the whole escort. Th« above-mentioned canoe having at length arrived, we proceeded for four hoiu's, steering west and west north-west, during which we traversed a league and a-half On the 2-ith we continued our journey, coasting to the left, from daybreak till noon. Soon afterwards we began to_ cross, passing between some islands to the eastern margin, to the principal mouth of the river Madeira; and, navigating until nightfall with the points of south and south-west, the flotilla stopped at a large island, opposite the mouth of the said river, at more than a league's distance. This day, having proceeded for fourteen hours, we accomplished eight leagues. At dawn on the 2.5 th we doubled "the point of the island, to- wards the south ; and shortly after daybreak we had the entrance of the river Madeira full in view, towards which we rowed in a south-westerly direction, and with the same course effected our entrance, and continued our journey. 225 NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER MADEIRA. Begun on the 25th of September, 1749. Before entering the river Madeira we stopped, about day- break, on the 25th of September, at a very wide sandbank which stretches from one of the many islands' in the river Amazon, fronting the said river Madeira. , Daylight disclosed to us the whole horizon, which terminated towards the east an,d west with the immense waters of the Amazon, and towards the south-west with those of the Madeira at its mouth, which is eight hundred fathoms in width, flowing into the Amazon between two- low promontories, clothed with vegetation like that generally found on the latter river. From this sandbank we struck across towards the Madeira, about seven o'clock in the morning; and, after an hour's journey, rowing to the south-west, we entered the mouth, where we did not perceive any greater swiftness in the current than that of the Amazon up to this place. Before arriving at the first turn which the river makes, it was necessary to wait until mid-day to make an observation. This was done, and by this means we ascertained the entrance to be in 4 deg. 14 min. southlatitiide. In this first bend of the river we remarked that there was no firm land eastward — that is to say, to the left — or westwards, capable of habitation, because it is all inundated at high tide. It only appears when the limit of low water is reached, when it is covered with an alluvial deposit, for which cause it is called, in the countr;r, Alagadipo (muddy) ; and the same nature of soil characterises the Amazon to the east and west, where the Madeira empties itself. Having taken the observation, we continued our journey to the south-west, and presently, having doubled the second bend, we navigated to the south-south-west, which soon proved to be .the proper course to take. 226 Before passing the first bend tliere is, to the right, a lake which fills at high-water and diminishes at low. In it are fish in abundance, of which fact travellers take advantage. Rounding the second headland, there lies, to the westward, a sandbank^ on which an islet is forming ; and, on this bank, there is abundance of turtles at the proper season ; that i§ to say, at the new moon in Optober, when the- water is low. Arriving at the third bend, we observed it to be rocky, this being the nature of the margin to the right, which, although not very high, docs not become inundated when the river is flooded. At the entrance to the bay, which commences at this bend to be of the same nature as the river-bank, there is the site of what was a Gentile village, and there ^exist remains of former habita- tions, in the shape of fruit-trees, which are there preserved. In the interior there are cocoa-plantations, and these were the origin of a large number of others that are to be found along this river. The locality is inhabited by soine settlers, who occupy themselves in curing fish. Continuing our journey under sail (on this day and the foHow- incf the usual wind having prevailed), in the directions referred to we arrived, about seven o'clock in the evening, at a halting- place between an island and the land on the right, called Para- namirim, (that is to say, in the native idiom, little river, not because there is really a river there, but that the Indians thus name that portion of water dividing the island from the main- land). During this stoppage we tried the experiment of angling, and the scaly wealth of the river was evinced by our securing, in a short time, as much fish as we required for the occasion. In the seven hours that we travelled this day we traversed four leagues. On the 26th, about six o'clock in the morning, we began to row in the directions of the south-west and south-south-east, and, after proceeding for a little more than an hour, we crossed over to the left side, by passing through a channel that there is between the mainland and the other island, which stretches almost across the river. In the part directly opposite this island, there is a lake called Do Padre S. Paio.* In it there is an * This was Father Joao de S, Paio, a, Jesuit. ;i 8f27 iiuiuense quantity of turtles and various kinds of fisli, suitable for curing. We proceeded on our way tow;irds the right, coasting aioug wide bay \v-hich communicates with another lake, but of less extent and utility than the preceding. From here there extend some low spm- of hills, which are occasionally rocky, as far as the village called Dos Abacaxis, where we arrived about ten o'clock in the evening, having gom- two leagues in four hours,, which, with the four leagues of the previous day. made a total of six, and tins is the distance from the mouth of the river to this first villagi'. Is is situated on the margin of the bay referred to, fronting an island parallel to the course of the river. This island is sub- ject to inundations, like those already mentioned. The village was located on a branch of the river Madeira, which flows into the river Amazon, with the name of Dos Abacaxis, oi- Topinam- bas. From here it was changed to the locality mrutioned, because the former site contained a number of lagoons, from which resulted a considerable amount of sickness and mortality among the inhabitants, who, even in their present situation, are not safe from such a calamity, because the settlement stands on a small strip of land between the river and the lake, which, in the dry season, causes illness. For this reason few persons inhabit the village, and the greater portion live in dwellings scattered here and there among the rocks on the main land in the vicinity. In consequence of the mortality arising not only from the malignity of the cliiriate, but also from the two epidemics of small-pox and measles, which ravaged the country from 1743 up to present year, 1749, less than a third part of the population remains. During the adminiistration of Father Joao de S. Paio, of the order Da Companhia, there were among the Indians more than a thousand warriors and able-bodied men before the two plagues alluded to. The land is sufficiently fertile ; turtle and various kinds of fish aborxnd ; but farinha (flour) is so scarce that the missionaries had to send to the city for whatever was needed in the way of food for themselves and also some indians who did not possess plantations. It was absolutely necessary to stop two days at this village, in order to obtain fifteen indians to take charge of tlie large canoes r -228 ' after embarking -the staff in the small ones, iwhiiph, have, to h& constructed before encountering the' cachoeir as., i This i was,; accordingly done in the manner which will be'relatbdfartlLer on. i Having ' procured these Indians, about eleven o'clock. oh the inoruiri^ of the 28th, we continued our voyage about four o'clock; / that afternoon with a south-westerly course, coasting to thelefti;' ; and after rounding the angle of the bay on which the said .YiLii) lage is situated we continued to the south-south-west^andi.wegt-,-! south-wefet,and :last to the south, towards the Abacaxis,estiiai|y, where the Mad eirai falls, by that way, into the Amazon, j ,,,■,; i ,■-, About pight o'clock at night the canoes halted,- 1 after, isi^.j hours' -journey, : during which, wc had gone two leagues, atftjjfi,;- (•iitrance of the northern pai-t, known as the mouth of, the T^pi- , nambas, nfjtwithstaiiiding that the river Madeira ,fQrffls the,f Abacaxis brandi, -dividing itself into two portions,.; mth an,: islandiioj.tli6!middlie,,aud traversing the. mainland as feras th,e, Amazon.:, Beyond the twenty-three lagoons, on, botb.,si^es,t,b,eji;e|. flows iiito the saidi branch a river .callftcj, .(Janorna.,, It,,flows fropf^, the mainland, andiis,toli3r3,bly.l,^rge.. , ,Tbe .bwks, ar,e ,in][^al:)it;.efjr by I vaLuVjub , .Gentile tribes, not of a very hostile .disposition, b,U,t, they do not accept the;priviloge pf pi:vilisation,,althpugii,seyeral amicable attempts, have been made to persua,(Jp the^, tOidf) ,so. , This efcplknation clearly shows, that the river .Madeira entprs the Amazon by two mouths, ■ making , the iprincipal outlet thfi matrix of, the river, and inferior to thei Abacaxis,, "vyliich receives the waters of the Gon,omi, forming, an island, of that large piecfl of land 'which is washed by, the Amazon, the said, Madeira, apcl the- Abaicaxis. Some inexperienced authors of geograpbieal n^i^ipa place this large, island in thi^l middle of , the Amazon, opposite the mouth of the Madeira, giving it the name of TopinambsvSf The 'most recenti description we have of, this locality isifrom.tJii^ pen of'Mon.sieur Lacondamine, in his map of .fche, AfPagPA and its confluents, printed in Amsterdam in the. year 1745, an ex- planation of which was furnished in. his diary. , .'This, map, was pritted after he had navigated the- Amazon from the province of Quito to Par4; and, notwithstanding that .this m.athemati- cian did not enter the Madeira, nor examine practically the communication existing with the Amazon by way of the Aba- 229 caxis, lib has recoreled accurate information furnished to him by persons of experience in Par^, who had navigated the entire length of the Madeira ; and, had he not made this investigation, he would have fallen into the error commonly made by geogra- phers with regard to this region, as did Condamine himself in the map referred to, with regard to the large island of Joannes, at the mouth of the Amazon, and the size of the islands of Tajupuru, persuading himself, perhaps, that no further water intervened between the mainland to the east and the said island than the channel he traversed in proceeding to Para, and afterwards along the coast of the Cabo do Norte. About three o'clock on the morning of the 29th we began to look out for a suitable place to say mass, and at daybreak the canoes halted at another island, larger than the preceding, oppo- site themouthoftheTopinambas, where there was a splendid sand- bank whereon to raise the portable altar. We named that island St. Michael, it being the day of that glorious archangel when we celebrated mass there. This spot is situated at the distance of a league from the northern mouth. We started thence at dawn towards the tract lying southwards, which we reached by the time the sun rose. St. Michael island,- as well as the foregoing one, and the mainland formed by the mouth of the Topinambas, are all covered in the rainy season. After celebrating the holy sacrament of m^ass we continued our journey, sailing and rowing, to the south-west, and afterwards to the west-south-west, coast- ing to the left the low lands on both banks, and passing three lagoons to the east, we stopped, after travelling for six hours, during which we had proceeded five leagues. During this day we noticed three islands in the middle of the river, which are covered at high water. There is a strong current to the left, at the end of a bay, where the banks are steep aud rocky. The canoes halted at the margin of the river, a little above the said current, beyond the promontory of the bay. On tire 30th, we began our journey at six o'clock in the morning, proceeding to the south-west, and soon afterwards to the west-south-west and south-south-west, and subsequently to the south-west, and after doubling a headland which stands out from the middle of ,i bay, we found a village called 230 Trocano, opposite to an island lying lengthways to the course of the river ; we had rowed for four hours, during which we went two leagues, and came to the conclusion that this village is about nine leagues distant from that of Abacaxis. From the entrance of the Madeira, as far as the headland to the north of the bay in which the town above mentioned is situated, the river preserves the width of from three hundred and fifty to four hundred fathoms ; but after arriving near the said bay, and passing the two islands on the right, the width becomes contracted for the space of half a league, where it extends but little more than one hundred fathoms, until passing the headland of the bay referred to. Here there is a sandbank stretching almost across the river. The eastern bank is rather rocky, and thence as far as the village named the margin attains a slight elevation, thus placing it out of the reach of inunda- tion in the rainy season. This village of Trocano, established under the auspices of St. Anthony, was built between the river Jamari and the first rapid of the Madeira, and is composed of persons who, in the year 1722, formed part of an expedition to the Madeira under Fran- cisco de Mello Palheta. The missionary of this settlement was Father Joao de S. Palo, of the Companhia de Jesus. After passing some years there, and seeing that the spot was not suitable for the health of the Indians, while they were also harassed by the neighbouring tribes, Jie adopted the expedient of removing to the site of the present village of Trocano. It is built on a plateau, which extends along the barrier of hills at the bay above mentioned, to the east of the Madeira. The breezes are pleasant, and healthier than those of the Aba- caxis, and the construction of the village is superior to that of the foregoing. It is missioned by the members of the Compan- hia, the chief of which was not in the village on the occasion of our visit, he having ascended the river Negro with the intention of preaching to the forest-tribes, so as to win converts for this village, and not only with this object, but also to avoid some disagreement among the Indians. "We halted the canoes at the sandy shores of an island lying lengthways up-stream, to th^ 231 right, at the distance'of a league and a-half from the village, from which its lower point is visible. We then proceeded in a light canoe to arrange whatever was convenient, for the servjce of the escort. At less than a day's journey up- stream from this village, there are several habitations of unconverted natives, who have had the boldness to attack the people of the said village. As a pre- caution against such inconvenience, the missionary lives in a house fortified with stockade- work, so that, with the assistance of two acolytes, who aid him in his duties, a better resistance might be offered in case of an assault. These officials were administering to the religious welfare of the village during the absence of the chief, at the time when the canoes arrived there. So little attention was paid by the population in carrying out the instructions of this missionary to aid the escort with Indians, that one of them hid in the forest with the greater part of the Indians, and some who were taken from there in order to bring back the large canoes were obtained by tact. Thus, we could not there obtain a supply of provisions, because even if they raised sufficient for themselves they will have none to sell. This was also the case with the farinha (mandioca- meal), which was the most e3sential article of food. , At about seven o'clock on the morning of the 2nd of October, leaving at the village a light canoe with an official and two soldiers, with a vie>v to purchase some farinha, the canoes started with a fresh wind, in a north-north-westerly direction, and after passing a bend to the right, where there was a large sandbank, we navigated to the south-south-west. After travelling for three hours, during which we went three leag-ues, we halted at the sandy beach of an island situated to the right, where we awaited the small canoe already mentioned during the remainder of that day and the next, which was the third. When we steered to the south-west, towards the right of the Madeira, we passed close to the mouth of a river which flows into a small bay called Goaota. This river is not large. The land near its mouth is low enough to be flooded. As we did not enter it, we were not able to examine the direction of its Qurrent. Coasting along the same western part in the bay which 232 succeeds, there is found an island with a very wide sand-beach, which extends to the bend of the other bay, in the middle of which, ,on an island similar to the preceding, we made a halt, mooring the canoe to the bank, as usual. Facing this island, on the right, is seen the entrance to a lake which abounds in fish. This is the first place on the river where wild Indians are to be met with. Although none were to be seen, we took every precaution in case of an attack by them. The water of the river Madeira," from its entrance as far as this place, is clear and nice to the taste, but from this headlabd it becomes turbid in parts where the banks are of clay, and where lakes fiow in ; and only where there are reefs or rocks does it become less faulty in this respect ; and, up to this spot, the winds known as ventos geraes prevail, but in a diminished form, so that olily in the case of thunderstorms is it necessary to have recourse to ply oars against the current. On the 4th day of October, the little canoe having arrived which was left at the village, without having effected any busi- ness of importance, we celebrated mass on the said sandbank, -the day being that dedicated to S. Francisco de Assis, out of respect for which we called the island after the name of this saint, and, starting at seven o'clock with the course of south- south-west, we left, on the right, a large sand-beach, and with the course of south, we proceeded in search of two islands which were on the left, on whose margin are numerous cacao-trees, but the land on the bank is washed away beneath, so that it con- tinually falls in with the weight of the enormous trees that are there produced. This passage (and there are many such on both margins of this river) is one of the greatest danger, and the most formidable that can be imagined ; and-, finally, up to the cachoe- iras (rapids and falls) we did not, in our expedition, meet with another river of greater importance. The islands referred to, which are situated close by each other, are called in the Indian language Carapan^tuba ; their Portuguese name signifies " land of many mosquitoes." The same name is applied to the lake of which mention has already been made. Passing the islands referred to in a south-westerly direction •^which is the direction of both — coasting to the left, in the 28S middle of a bay there is a great bftid of rocks, between which the river runs very rapidly, and in this place, about four o'clock in the afternoon, some uncivilised Indians were seen seated on the rocks. Seeing a light canoe in which we're a soldier and two Indians as escorts, they slunk into the forest to watch, but, a signal being made to acquaint them that more canoes were coming, as soon as these made their appearance the indians in ambush fled into the interior of the forest. Having passed the currents -at the rocks without experiencing any of 4he mishaps that we might have encountered, the canoes were crossed over to the other side of the river, in search of a channel which there is between the mainland and the island of Jacar^ because there is a strong current to the east, and at high-water the river forms, midstream, a whirlpool (called in the country Caldeirdo, or cauldron), which it takes a deal of work to avoid ; and coasting along the bay on the west, the banlc of which is composed of shelving earth, we made for the beach of the island, and there brought up for the night, taking necessary precautions. A lake, also called Jacard, flows into the channel on the east. On this day, after going for five hours and a half on our way, we accomplished three leagues. On the 5th, continuing our journey, we coasted to the right, with the points of south and south-south-west, and after three hours' journey by oar, we found an island called Jos6 Joao (it took this name after a native of Para of that name, who for many years attended to the cultivation of the cacao-tree, with which the island abounds), and, in the- immediate vicinity, sue ceeded another island, smaller, but with a long beach, extending in the direction of the river. We continued to navigate towards the south and south-west, and soon, to the west, a little above the said beach, the water's edge of which is skirted with a strip of sand, we saw a place which appeared to be frequented by wild indians, but we saw none. When one has passed a rocky bend, on the left, where the river is narrower, there is a lake to which the indians give the name of Mat^matA. Merely turtles are to be found in it, of which the wild tribes make use. We crossed over to the right side of the river, and when it was almost nightfall we made a halt at a little distance from the 234 bank, as there was no open landing-place or island where we could pass the night in greater security. This day, after eight hours' journey, the greater part under canvas, we went some four leagues. Meanwhile, there was nothing of importance to notice, since the lands are floodable ; the trees are all wild along the margins, and do not give any indication of possessing value. Ou the 6th we began our jotirney with the course of east, south-west and south-south-west, coasting the right bank, and, after ten hours' journey, rowing and sailing, we accomplished about six leagues, not observing anjrthing noteworthy on the way. On the 7th we continued our journey, navigating to the south, coasting to the right ; and, after two hours' journey, rowing, we saw, to the left, the river called Aripoana, and, crossing to examine its mouth, we found that it was approximately eighty fathoms wide, with a direction almost from east to west. The water of this river is clearer and of better taste than that of the Madeira, into which it disembogues in front of a small island, almost oval in shape, lying north and south in the said Madeira, at a slight distance from the bank where the said Aripoand flows in. The locality is inhabited by some wild tribes, conse- quently no one ias yet navigated to ascertain its source and the nature of the land in the vicinity. Leaving the mouth of the Aripoan^, we proceeded on our journey in a south-westerly direction, coasting to the left, on which there was some tree-bark eighteen feet long and three feet wide, fastened at the extremities with ipecacuanha-sinnet in such "a manner as to fonn the stern and bow of a boat, leaving in the middle a concavity of little more than two spans. This is the kind of boat used by the wild tribes on the whole river. The skiff we saw must have conveyed to this spot some of these persons, who might have been in the forest busy preparing a dwelling ; because, with such boats, the wild indians never leave them moored by the landing-stages, but guard them \inder water. When these craft are required, the owners dive to un- fasten the rope, and then ascend with them to .the surface by swimming. This boat we came across would hold four persons, allowing sufficient space for rowing and steering, but this would ■ be in calm weather,because if there should be a swell on the water, 235 however slight, the boat might be swamped. From such acci-/ dents those indians extricate themselves admirably by swimming, some bailing the water out of the boat, others taking care of the arrows, which they esteem as the chief articles in their possession. We continued our journey, steering west in search of an island called Araras, which is seen from the mouth of the Aripoand., already referred to; arid, arrivmg at it, we found the land to be firm, and inhabited by a tribe of wild indians called Araras, whence that island takes its name. It is formed by the Madeira, an almost equal breadth of v/ater lying on either side, the wider portion being about two hundred fathoms across. This island follows the sinuosities of the river for the space of two leagues, such being its length. We could not judge as to its Avidth with any accuracy. We passed between the said island and the margin to the left, steering south-west, coasting along a bay, which terminated in a promontory of rocks, where the current ran very swiftly. Before reaching this point a small lake flows in, and there is another, which is also about the same size, after passing the current, We halted the canoes at a short distance from this spot, along the same bank, at a little rocky island a short way off the land. This island is submerged at high water, its elevation being less than that of the bank, which also becomes flooded. On this day, after eight hours' journey, we had traversed a little more than three leagues, because there was no wind. We started, at 8 a.m., from the little rocky island, steering south-south-east, coasting to the leift ; and, before arriving at the point of the bay, a lake of small importance flows in. Following the southerly course, after passing a sandbank which there is at the point referred to, we encountered the strongest current which, thus far, we had met with. There being an island* with a wide beachin the middle of the river, close by the point mentioned, the water rushes with great force by reason of the shallowness in all these parts, and it was necessary to take the canoes to the island, and tow them until dinner-time, when we rested. * On the margin of the right side facing the point of this island, there being one Antonio Correia, an inhabitant of Para, on his oac6,o-plantation, the MuraS attacked him there and murdered him and five indian servants, with arrows. 236 Soon continuing our journey, in a south-south-westerly direc- tion, towing, as before, along the beach of the island, it hap- pened that a light canoe of scouts became separated from the larger boats, and after passing the left side of the bank, some ten or a dozeil wild Muras Indians rushed down to the brink and fired a volley of arrows at the skiff, without, however, in- juring any one. Those in the little canoa having recourse' to arms, the aggressors soon made off, and did not make their appearance the rest of the afternoon, which was passed in tow- ing the canoes as far as the island extended. On it we passed the night, using great vigilance and caution. On this day, after eight hours' journey, we accomplished three leagues, being im- peded by the current, which we had to overcome until stopping for the night. On the 9th, when it was already clear daylight, we started, seeking the left margin, near where the indians had appeared, and coasting to the south-south-west, we found, on a beach there, a nailed arrow, which the pilots told us was a signal of defiance by theindians, who were probably awaiting us on the headland of the bay, where there was a current. We, therefore, proceeded with necessary caution. Nothing fresh of any importance occurred on this passage ; but, on passing round a bend which next presented itself, the two skifis in the van discerned five canoes* of indians, steering down stream, very near the bank. Without evincing any fear, they began to show fight, but no sooner did they perceive the first large canoe than they leaped to earth with incredible agility, and sank the bark-canoes in which they had been jour- neying in such a manner as to leave no trace behind. From the middle of the bay, after having passed the said bend, we crossed to the right, where the bank was higher, and the interior abounds with cacao-trees. We coasted along, with the course of south-south-west and west-south-west, and lastly to the south-west, until arriving at the island of Mautara, in front of which we halted the canoes at a point of low land, where there was no fear of an attack ; nevertheless, we still passed the night with our usual precautions. • These canoes were of the same kind as already described. S37 Almost in front of this island a stream flows in, on the left from which the island takes its name, so that both are named Mataur4 There was not an opportunity to examine its mouth, because night came on as we approached, but the pilots say that it is larger than the river Aripoan^, already mentioned on the 7th instant, and that several wild tribes dwell on the Mataur^. The bay into which it flows, near the headland whence the little canoes started, is above the river at its flood, and the soil seems to be of a good quality for tilling, because the trees, besides being high and leafy, were devoid of the usual thickness which prevails in parts inundated by the river. This day, after seven hours and a half of journeying, "we accomplished three leagues. At ten o'clock in the morning, crossing to the right, we navi- gated with a southerly course, which we soon changed to south-west; the current running rather swiftly. Then, after three hours' journey, we saw, to the left, a rather reddish hill- range, which, in the chief language of the Indians, is called Guarapiranga. Extending for a quarter of a league, with its flora of virgin forest, there flows in, at the end of this range,, a stream called Matapl. It is not very important. Facing its mouth is an island with a beach stretching from one end to the other. After passing this island, one meets with a reddish hill- range, similar- to the one on the left, but less extensive in length. We continued our journey until six o'clock in the afternoon, and the canoes drew up for the night by a projecting portion of the. left bank, after having traversed three leagues and a half in nine hours. During the greater part of tliis time we steered south-Avest. On the 11th, at daybreak, we continued^ our journey, going south and south-west, coasting to the left, when we soon met with a rocky bank, in front of which stretched an island parallel to the direction of the river. Between this and the margin we made our way, so as to avoid the current between the rocks to the left? After the said bank followed a wide bay, skirted by low land, in the middle of which flows a large lake, called Mani- core, and the further promontory of. this bay is clothed with a cacao-plantation. In front of this begins a large beach, or sand- bank, which extends from the middle of the river, which it Q 238 divides into two. channels. In the part to the right two small lakes empty themselves, and the banks are wholly composed of fallen land. After coasting along this, we arrived, at seven o'clock in the evening, opposite the month of the river Unicor^, ■v*hich flows in on the left bank, almost in front of the point of an island, at the beach of which we halted the canoes. This river Unicor^ is of a tolerable size; it flows to the south- east, and is inhabited by wild Indians. On this day, after ten hours' journey, we went five leagues under canvas, being assisted by a gale of wind blowing from the stern. Our principal course was south-west. On the 12th, we continued our journey, coasting to the left, through a channel which the river forms between a shoal and the island named, the beach of which, on the south, spreads out for the space ot more than a league, with a direction from south to south-west throughout its extension. After this, trying the course of south-west, we found, at the beginning of another bay, three islands, and, by Way of the channels between them, where there was less current, we made our way until four o'clock. Wc left the island straight astern, and steering south to the bay, we brought up the canoes at a beach, tvhich, from the point of the bay, to the left, extends to the middle of the river. On this day, after nine hours' journey, we went four leagues, principally with a south-west course. 13th. — On this day, we did not go further than the entire leng-th of the bay, steering towards the south and round by the east to the north. Terrific currents exist throughout the bay. When proceeding with an easterly course, we met with a bank 0f red earth on the right, and^ a rocky headland, where the water ran with great fury. This bank extends for a distance of three quarters of a league along the river, and contains chestnut and cacao-trees. It terminates in a lake called by the Indians Capaua. This portion of the continent is the best adapted for the foundation of a town, which we had hitherto met with • but, besides the land being suitable for cultivation, the creek of the river abounds in fish and game — both bird and beast. The bank on the left is almost entirely of fallen earth, and wreat quantities of timber had drifited in heaps along the margia, 239 The canoes were halted, at six o'clock in the evening, at a beach which extends from the further point of the creek on the right, almost to the middle of the river. On the 14th, we commenced our journey at six o'clock in the morning, coasting to the right, by a channel between the bank and an island, steering south-east, south, south-west, and up to west. At half-a-league from the bay, the month of an igarap^ was seen, which, striking across to the centre, falls into the lake called Capana, of which mention has been made on the previous day ; and, continuing the course of west, about four o'clock in the afternoon, a storm aided us in rowing, and the canoes were brought up, at six o'clock, at a new island. During ten hours' journey we had gone about four leagues. After this island was another of tolerable extent, and between the mouth which both form, a bank was seen on the left, where Captain Joao de Barros da Guerra pitched his camp, when, in the year 1719, he wassent, as the commander of a troop, to destroy the tribe of wild Indians' nanjed Torazes that inhabited these dis- tricts. They were so daring that they would paddle downstream to the Amazon and plunder the canoes which proceeded upwards from Par^ to the cocoa-tract on the SolimOes, and kill the crews. The war waged by the said Captain exterminated them. 15th day. — About six o'clock in the morning, we proceeded on our journey with the course of west, by a channel between the laud to the right and an island which stretched downstream, and, almost at one of its terminal points on the left margin, a river called Araxia flows in, on the left bank, apparently coming rom the east. Continuing along this same channel, after four hours' journey we found land more elevated and red, after pass- ing which a lake called Macoapi was seen to flow in, in which there is a serpent of enormous size, called by the Indians in their principal dialect boya asu, -which signifies in our language " big snake." These Indians relate incredible things of these animals, and we, therefore, draw attention to them as a curious feature. Having passed the mouth of the lake referred to, at the distance of three hours' journey from the right side, and leaving th§ «aij a 254 large number of streams flowing down the slopes of the sam6 chain, this chain proceeds with the direction of west, and as if to form a boundary of the dominions which pay watery tribute to the ocean, it divides, at the distance of more than two hundred leagues, the waters into great rivers, some of which seek, with a northerly tendency, to terminate their course in the celebrated and mighty river Amazon, and others go southward to form the river La Plata or Paraguay, of which individual notice will be given in a more opportune place. With the west course referred to, making varioiis semi-circles of mountains; and throwing off many branches to the south (and some also to the north) the range goes widening out as far as the end of the Campos Parcizes, which it leaves on the north, parallel to the sources of the rivers Madeira and Jahuru, whereof more distinct notice will be taken further on ; and seeking the margin of the same Madeira, leaving the course of west, it accompanies this river with a direction of west-north-west for the space of more than one hundred and eighty leagues ; then striking oif to the north-east with the said river for the space of sixty leagues it forms the cachoeiras (rapids and falls), which are described farther on, as far as 9 deg. south latitude, wkere it leaves the cachoeiras and turns off with the course of west, in which direction it is lost to view. It probably unites itself with the mountain -ranges of Peru, which form the mentioned cordil- heira of the Andes. The extent of the unconverted tribes that inhabit, above and below, the rugged slope of these hill-chains, and possess a greater tendency to associate with wild beasts than men, requires par- ticular treatment. It would need a large volume to inform the world about a great part of the unfortunate paganism that still exists. In this diary a short notice of it will, where suitable, be given, as, also, of the abundance of riches which this range has disclosed, and the search for ^vhich is still hopefully carried on in parts of the same chain, further to the west, in the district of which we are treating. This range is called by the name of the Cordilheira das Gerd.es, or Chapada Grande, by the inhabitants of Cuyuba and Mato Grosso, and we will employ one or other of these names as we proceed with this diary. •2-,.-, DESCRIPTION OF THE CACHOEIRAS OF THE RIVER MADEIRA, WHICH WE BEGAN TO PASS ON THE 18th DEOEMBEil, 1749, FIRST CACHOEIRA.* Arriving on the 17th of December, about four o'clock in the afternoon, in the vicinity of the cachoeira, called by the Indians Aroaya, and by the Portuguese S. Jofto, we sent the most experienced Indians, in a canoe, to examine which of the channels the river makes between masses of rocks would be capable of being passed with less danger ; and, by the information that we obtained, it was shown to be advisable to proceed with our canoes along the left margin, and not by the right, because the middle was impracticable; and, in the same way, it was equally dangerous on the right, since the river had already begun to fill and to rush along that bank with a greater impetuosity of current than on the left. With this view, we undertook, on the following day, the passage, which was accomplished witli work, but happy success. . After entering upon the navigation of the river Madeira to this place, the first rapid, we found that both banks were low, and during the flood-month they are inundated for a distance of one or two leagues from the centre on each side according to the quantity of rain that falls in the wet season, which some- times is more copious than at others. Hence result the numerous lakes which, at low water, the river forms along both * N^9TE BY Tramslatob. — ^Now cnU^i San Antonio. 256 banks, so that, it being rare that the land rises to any great height — the bank never continues high for more than a league — the small portions that rise are around the lakes, and seem to be islands rather than the mainland. However, on approaching the first rapid the high bank corresponds with the centre, and is not subject to inundations, and from this part the hills of the Cordilheira Geral begin when going up stream, and terminate when coming down. These were the same hills that we had seen. These hills extend themselves along both banks in various directions, and between them the river Madeira makes its way ; and as they are composed of rocky masses, so the current of the river flows swiftly between them, so that at the first rapid the land was observed to make a small bay, to the east, composed of masses of rock, which, traversing the river, form in it two islands : the larger contains lofty trees, and is 200 fathoms from the mainland or the left bank, the smaller, which stands opposed to the current in its midst, is almost bare. On the west begins a wide bay, and on the point opposite to the right there is a similar series of rocks of the same kind and position as that already referred to. The current of the river bursts through between the two promontories of firm land, offering to view a spectacle equally formidable and pleasant ; because by reason of the impetuosity with which the water rushes to overcome the impediments which in parts are opposed to it, it has precipated two blocks of rock, and issuing between others already torn off, it goes on whirling, dashing, and seething until it subsides into quiet water in the creeks, where in the calm water are reflected the ever-leafy trees On the margins. Everything combined conduces to contempla- tion and amusement, although enough horrible objects are pre- sented to travellers to cause fear. At that season, there were three channels to be found in that rapid. By that of the middle no one has yet passed, nor can anyone help infallibly falling a victim in the attempt. By that on the right, in the dry weather, any canoe can go without danger ; but directly the river begins to swell |li«r« only rero^ips the cbaJJftel w the left, whieh in the drv 257 season has no water in it, and during the entire period of high water is the best for navigating. At the season of our visit — ^the beginning of the first rains — ^tbere wks enough water in to pass the canoes. This we did on the 18th, after performing, mass in memory of Mrs. 0., whose birthday was celebrated by the church. Two passages appeared in the part referred to, both among rocks, but with the difference that by the first the canoes could go loaded, being towed with great care. We passed this after four hours' labour ; and arriving at a calm piece of water near the' other passage, we unloaded the vessels, and, carrying the cargoes over the very numerous rocks for the distance of 200 fathoms, they were left in a convenient place, where, without danger, we had already embarked. This being effected, we continued to convey the canoes through the remainder of the channel, which was formed by a broken portion from a bouldei", whence the water issues from a height of two palms with little current for a distance of some thirty fathoms. For this purpose, it was necessary to make keels of wood to save the canoes from harm, which they would have suffered against the rocks that were not yet 'covered. With this precaution, we successfully pushed forward the canoes, employing the whole afternoon in trans- porting the cargoes to a safe place, quite free from the dangers 'of this first impediment ; and each one carried the things that belonged to him, so that on the following day we could proceed on our journey. On the 19th, when already it was day, we began our journey with a west-north-west course upon the smooth water, which there was between the rest of the island and the firm land on the left ; and, in less than half an hour, coasting to the west, we saw the cachoeira ahead, where could be observed the sources of the water, which descended between two islands and the channel on the right. The scene was, in truth, more sombre than that already referred to. Coasting along the same left margin. We found, after an hour's journey, going with the course of west-south-west, two masses of rock close by the shore, one of which formed an island, and from it rocks stretched out to tlie middle of the river, where there 2o8 was rather a strong current, which we overcame by oar; and had it not been that the rocks in the middle were well covered with water, there would have been fresh work for us to do, as if at a rapid. From this part we crossed to the right, coasting along which, while yet the preceding mass of rock was in sight, we found another very similar. It was less like an island, but the current was greater. This we could only pass with some danger by tow- ing. At this place, there were on the mainland many cacao-trees with fruit which was already nearly ripe, and plenty of trees bearing chestnuts and other wild fruits which the Indians eat. Having accomplished this passage, we began to hear the roar of the waters of the celebrated cachoeira called Gamon, and coasting along the same right side with the points of south-west and south, taking forthwith as a guide the noise of the waters referred to, we saw, on turning from the south-south-east, that barrier of water which extends across the whole width of the river, and with the same course we arrived at it about four o'clock in the afternoon, and, in six hours' journey, we went three leagues, from the first cachoeira as far as the second. SECOND CACHOEIRA.* On the east and west the river forms two similar bays, so that it appears to make a circle, uniting together the opposite head- lands upstream, with a direction of north-west and south-east. Both these headlands are formed each of one solid rock, and both communicate, forming, as it were, a dismantled wall, the ruins of which, being precipitated into the water of the river with tremendous violence, make a terrific noise, which, \vere there any inhabitants on the banks, would probably cause them to suffer from deafness. It is said that this happens to those who live near the cataracts of the Nile. * Note by Transiator. — ^Now called I ». g>^fi^-^A7-«^^ At this impediment the river breaks with such noise and fury that there is no means for persons to effect this passage by- channels or smooth water, because there is no such thing near the rocks, and these are not perceived, for between the breaks of the rocks all is a waste of seething water. Scarcely does the trunk of a tree, however large it may be, reach here, than it is absorbed in an instant, and quietly ejected, to be again soon drawn in, and hence at times is shot out in foamy billows, and, thus detained, remains gyrating for many days until the river swells, and thus opens up a way of escape. From one headland to the other, the length and breadth of the precipitated water would be about two hundred and fifty fathoms. The teight of the leap in parts showed, on this occasion, when the Mver had already increased, no more than sixteen fathoms, estiih'^ed at the utmost. _ \ As the furious current which issues from the leaps -vve soimhe waters give- among the rocks flows near the right si(;aclioeirie river, because it encounters an island and bank which j islandi^ in the middle of the bay, and gives passage to the grear almost tity of water between the land on the same right side already island, the canoes took their way by the left margin, between brought them to in a small bay, where, as it was uselessh little for channels, everything was unloaded, and, having tran of the the provisions and utensils by land, winding over the id that the space of 600 fathoms, we dragged the canoes overkeither wooden rollers, in which labour we expended twa days ; anc of the canoes becoming disjoined in the passage where thei bay, an elevation of land, where greater effort was required to ihad, them, we expended another day to repair the damage, the nt bouring forest supplying, in the place of oakum, a fibre ta: from between the bark and wood of a tree called Jacepoca_ and, only with the small attention of stripping it off as a mei brane and drying it, the fibre becomes capable of being used ft this purpose; and from another tree, called Cumaii, we drew th sap, which served as tar. It is even betttr for caulking seam than if they were stopped with oakum. The land contiguous to the rocky mass on the left, whenc branches off the .scries of rocks from whiclf the cachoeira i 260 formed, is elevated like a hill-range, -whic/h runs towards the centre, and the extremity of it finishes in th^ promontory on the north-west, where the rapid originates. On the bank of the bay on the right, before and after passing jthe cachoeira, there is a kind of earth of such surpassing quality that on it alone are sustained animals — quadrupeds and birds— which denizen those woods, such as tapirs, wild boars, deer, and other animals of this kind, also parrots, macaws, mutuns, and others of this species, which are caught for the support of travellers; for these animals do not find anything in the bushes and thickets that would, supply them with greater nutrition than the said earth, in eiiting which they often find insects, and this quality of earth is !j/nown by the dens which those that are maintained by it l^j- e. The Jiaste of this kind of game is more insipid than J[ ^Q lose that • ^^^ channels were found to the right and to the to SI?' whereby, with little labour, we towed the canoes through. ^jjgjm the left bank of the river at this place issues a rocky idland, which expands, forming various rocks, reaching across river to the right, which has three small islands formed of same stone, with rather a considerable quantity of wild 561 timber, and between these islands and the mainland we navi- gated in the manner referred to for the space of half an hour with the course of south and south-south-east ; and proceeding by oar, coasting along the bay, we turned to the south and south-south-west ; and at the end of the bay lies an island surrounded by rocks almost in a circle in the middle of the river, and offers a passage between it and the mainland on one side, and the other without current or labour. Having passed the island, we continued our journey, veering round the bay with the course of west-sovith-west, and coasting to the west it was found to be a bank which began in»-the head- land referred to, a vertical wall of rock of a good height. Soon afterwards, a strong current proceeds from some rocks which stretch out from the same bank toward.s the middle of the river? and it was passed by towing with but little labour. Following the same course of west, and passing to the south- ^v€st, coasting along the same right part, we came to a cachoeira similar to the preceding, composed of various little islands^ detached from the rocks, which spread across the river almost from north-west to south-east ; and as the water would already cover a great part of the rocks, it afforded us a passage between the mainland on the right and an island, towing with little effort ; and the same was the cas^ with the other canoes of the squadron which went to the left. Thus we ascertained that this cachoeira and the previous one are easy of passage on either side of the river between the bank and the rocks. Thence, coasting with the same course as far as a small bay, in which we halted the canoes on the same right side, and had, in nine hours' travel, accomplished three leagues. ■2iJ-2 THIRD CACHOEIRA.* On the 24th, we began to travel with the course of west- south-west, crossing to the left so as to escape a current which there was after passing the headland of the little bay, where we stopped the night. This current was produced by some rocks which at a little distance seemed to be out of water ; l^ut coasting with the course of south-west half the distance round, we found in the middle of it, after little more than an hour and a-haMJs journey, a rocky promontory which stretched alinost to the middle of the river, where the current was strong. This we passed by towing, and coasting with the same course for the space of an hour and a-half we arrived at the cachoeira called, in the language of the Indians .... and -pre- sently, out of respect to the celebration of the birth of Christ our Lord, we called the cachoeira " Natal." In three hours' journey we went one league. This cachoeira consists of two islands of rock densely tim- bered. Both cross the river in the direction of north-west to south-east. liots of rocks extended off the east and west banks adjacent to these islands. These rocks occupy both channels between the islands and the mainland. This is the reason why _a great difficulty is offered in the passage of any of these channels in the river when not full. The space that intervenes between the two islands is also interspersed with rocks, between which the river rushes with the greatest I'orce of its current ; and, for this cause, the ascent or descent by this way is imprac- ticable. Therefore, having in view an object which, on all sides, appeared formidable, the pilots noticed that to the left there used to be a more favourable passage, and with this considera- tionthe guides were despatched to examine the channel, which, in fact, was found such that it could be passed by the canoes half-loaded, as the rocks were not yet well covered where a route was offered. Note uv TuANSL.iToit. — Now called ^fyio^^€u,-nJi^ 263 The canoes being unloaded to the extent aforesaid, we effected their transport, and for the whole of that day we remained on the other side of the cachoeira, each one with that portion of the- cargo which he carried. We thus overcame a powerful current -^hich there was in the bay ; and, this done, we halted the canoes at the bank on the left. As soon as it broke day, we looked for a suitable place in order to celebrate mass, and no other which was more so offered than a small beach which there was in the island on the north-west, just clear of the cachoeira ; and for this place we crossed the river on the morn- ing of the 2otli, and there we heard the three masses j^mitted in the celebration of the sacred birth of our Lord JesiffUhrist. On this 25th daj', about three o'clock in the afternoon, we con- tinued our journey, crossing to the left, and coasting with the course, of west, west-south-west, and south-west. It was neces- sary, after three hours' going to cross to the right side, to halt at a small beach. This was done when it was already dusk, and we went, in the said three hours, a league and a-half. On the 26th, after hearing mass, we began our journey, at seven o'clock with the course of south-south-west, crossing, to the left, and coasting to the south between a large island and the mainland. We proceeded once more to the south-west .until reaching a promontory, where began a wide bay, in which were found three islands lying in the direction of the river, between these there is a great current, which was augmented in parts where the rocks touched the points of the said islands. Notwithstanding these embarrassments, we drew up, while it was already night,at a beach in the middle of the river adjoining the last of the said three islands, and in ten hours' travelwe progressed four leagues. On the 27th, we continued on our way, crossing to the right of the river, and with the course of Avest were coasting for the space of an hour, and afterwards Ave navigated to the west- north-west, and soon again to. the west, and from this course we changed in a -short time to the south-west and south-south- west. At this bend, we saw some high hills, which apparently ran from cast to west. At the point of one of these lies the cachoeii'a, whither we directed our way, passing two islands. 264 one on the right of the river, which prolonged it:-;elf as far as midstream, and the other on the left, close to the land, and taking the direction of the bay. Continuing thus with the same course of south-west, we saw the fourth cachoeira, and moored the canoes to the left, at nightfall, at a small beach close by the bank. In ten hours' journey we had gone, on this day, four leagues. FOURTH CAOHOEIRA.^ The, 28th day anived, and, after celebrating mass, we coasted, , on the right side, a small bay to the south-west. The point in which it terminates is composed of rocks, which advance as far as the middle of the river, between which we steered with some difficulty against a great current which prevailed in that place ; and as soon as we doubled the prpmontory we halted the canoes close to the cachoeira called, in the language of the Indians, Guar^assu, that is to say, great guara (a bird the size of a gull, with feathers of a bright scarlet colour), and there we waited the examination of the channels so as to know which was the most convenient to adopt. This cachoeira is composed of a labyrinth of islands sur- rounded by a series of rocks, which crossed the river from one side to the other, with the course of north-west and south-east, at the distance of almost half a league, which width the river attams in that place, because it forms creeks or bays on both parts corresponding in the concavity. Four islands are located with the direction of the river, and fronting a vast number of smaller ones which fill up the gaps, following the same course at a distance of almost three-quarters of a league in latitude, all of solid rock, on the heights of which are produced trees of serrated foliage and extremely picturesque. Rocks branch out copiously on all sides from them, leaving no part of the river * Note ev Tr.wsi.atok. — Now callod Miiii"i'iii|iil*iiiii 263 free, added to which, between the numerous rocks there are various precipices, and from these result whirlpools of water, which engulph everything that comes near, whether it be a canoe, a log of wood, or any other body capable of suffering the misfortune of being whirled to the bottom with incredible violence. When the river is half full, and until high water, when there are many rocks, or all covered in the channel between the land to the south-west and the island adjoining, there is a sufficient passage at this place ; but on the present occasion, when the water began to increase, everything here consisted of voj^ces and whirlpools of water. By the channels of the middle it was .necessary to take care, since the exit of the waters was more formidable with the violence of the whole current. For this reason we resorted to the expedient of exploring the channel on the north-west, and in it, coasting the contiguous island, we found a passage, but the most troublesome we had hitherto en- countered. -There are three channels which, between the four islands, make a passage in the river with the violence mentioned. But at a distance of fifty fathoms, more or less, there stands opposed a rocky island which crosses the river with the same course from north-west to south-east, where the waters break with the fury with which they dash between the rocks of the channels referred to ; and at the lower part of the same island the water forms a quiet pool, by which the canoes crossed to ,the north-west side ; and coasting the island which runs in the direction of the river, two promontories of a series of rocks were found on this island. Between these rocks we took the canoes, on which task wo ex- pended the afternoon of the 28th, and there waited for the following day to continue the passage of greater danger. On the 29th, we proceeded by the quiet pools which inter- vened between the currents of the mainland and of the island, and we contemplated the passage of a rocky headland which there was on another island fronting the one mentioned, whence we could convey the canoes when half-loaded, and by this method of transport we passed to a very wide pool which inter- ygne4 bet'Weefi this jdape awd other islands of the portion aboypj 2G6 and by it one could pass without danger to the other margin of the rirer to overcome the last fall offered in it ; but, on drawing up the first canoe half-loaded, there being confusion among the Indians in towing unless under supervision, while we were not yet clear of a rock which caused the greatest ebul- lition of jfater, we made them, with a vigorous effort at the bow of the boat, to force it on the top of the rock, and soon in- clining the whole towards the current, the water rose so that we had not power to resist. We loosened the cords, and, in an instant, the current bore away th^ canoe to a pool behind the other island, where we found it safely floating. We drew it on land, emptied and bailed it out, it having sustained no further damage than wetting the cargo contained in her, and this event was less unfortunate than if we had lost all, for the canoe (as -were, also, most of them) was made of wood which does not go to the bottom in such cases. In consequence of this confusion, it was necessary to halt on the 30th and 31st, so as to dry our clothes and look after the provisions which had got wet, and on the 1st day of January of the new year, 17-50, we varied our route, passing again to the island which on the 29th we had coasted, and, unloading every- thing, the canoes were towed past two rocky headlands in which work we were engaged until four o'clock in the afternoon, at which time, by the pool which there was between the main portion of the cachoeira and the last islands of rock, we crossed to the east part of the river, and caused the canoes to be halted near the last impediment of this cachoeira, which was a canal between the series of rocks which issues from the mainland and another similar promontory which communicated with one of the islands in which ends the labyrinth of those rocks which compose this troublesome cachoeira. The 2nd having arrived, we unloaded everything from the canoes, and with good success we conveyed them over the badly- covered rocks of the channel, where it was necessary to make thick wooden keels to avoid the damage Which might result from the rocks, and to render easy a slight elevation which they attained in a distance of five fathoms. The canoes having been 207 transported, and already laden on the other side of the cachoeira, we effected a start about two o'clock on the afternoon of the same day, coasting the land on the same east side. From the first passage as far as this last one there is half a league of longitude and one-third of latitude. FIFTH CACHOEIRA * AccoEDiNGLY, on the same day, about three o'clock, we con- tinued our journey, coasting to the left with the course of west, and soon, to the south-west, we saw, on the portion of the river to the right, some hills, which form the margin of -it and ran towards the west. They were of tolerable height, and tim- bered with rough trees exceedingly serrated. Arriving at a bay, still with the latitude of south-south-west, we encountered a very furious current occasioned by a shoal of rocks, which, with-great effort, we passed, towing the canoes, and, taking the course of south, we saw the cachoeira called .... 'which we reached after four hours' journey. This rapid is the most terrible we had hitherto encountered. The foregoing hills continue along the right bank, and con- sequently leave in this place so great and disordered a lot of rocks across the whole width of the river that they do not 'yield a passage to the waters other than they can cleave for themselves, bursting through that deranged machinery for more than feOO fathoms along the stream, without any channel by which a canoe could be passed notwithstanding every effort be made, so that there is no other choice except to unload the canoes and haul them overland along the left margin, until clearing the whole distance where any impediment exists. Two days were expended in laying a roadway of logs so as to roll the canoes on them, and, as the land was of tolerable elevation and scattered with rocks for a distance of a third of a * Note ny Tiukslatob.— Now called WnM fi iiiH i i1n T i nitn 2G8 league, we occupied two more days in transporting the canoes and their cargoes, so that, on the 7th, we resiimed our journey, expending four days of immense work on this troublesome cachoeira. ♦ Accordingly, on the 7th, at six o'clock in the morning, we began our journey with the course of south, coasting to the left, and soon we came across a rocky shoal (a remaining relic of the preceding cachoeira) rather difficult to pass, but, having overcome it, we coasted to the west a wide bay where, on the right, the same hill-range continued, but with less height than the previous, and follows the same course of west. After passing this bay, we entered to coast another with the course of south, at the beginning of which, on the same left side, there was on the bank the celebrated earth which the birds are accustomed to eat. Presently we passed to the south-west, and with the course of south-east, with ten hours' travel, we halted the canoes already by night, and had gone three leagues. SIXTH CACHOEIRA.* On the 8th day, at about six o'clock in the morning, we began our journey mth the course of south-south-east, and presently south-east and south-west for two bays, at the end of which began an island which divided the river into two channels ; that on the ' right side is greatly embarrassed with a series of rocks, where the water rushes with such violence that, encountering that which issues from the channel on the right, a rapid and furious current was produced, which from the headland of the island extended downstream a tolerable distance. Coasting along the left, we entered, with some trouble, which was the result of taking a south-south-west course, and in ten hours' journey we went two leagues, and brought up the canoes tvt the island referred to, it being already dark. -2G9 From this island and the mainland on both margins issue the rocks that make the c'achoeira called Arapacoa,* so that on the following day, that is to say on the 9th, we continued by the same channel with the course of south-south-west and south-west, coasting the island until arriving at the last head- land, Adhere there is the main body of the cachoeira, in which place the waters divide for the two channels referred to, and, on issuing from where we were navigating, we passed the rapid, rowing, overcoming only the currents which resulted from the stones already covered with water, for which reason that passage is facilitated, without further trouble than the said one of having to use the oar. From the point of the island, on the west side, there ran along the river the highest hill-range we had noticed up to that place. These hills followed the same direction as the previous ones, from east to west. Leaving them on the bank on our right, we coasted to the left on the same 9th day, with the course of west, west-north-west, and north-west, and with ten hours' travel we went two leagues and a-half. On the 10th we began our journey coasting, to the left with course of west-south-west, the hills continuing on the right in the direction mentioned. Down a gorge in them ran a stream, at the mouth of which we found six small canoes of bark placed as a safeguard. This was a sure sign that in the interior from tha;t spot there were Indians, who, when necessary, travel in such canoes. We allowed them to remain in the same spot, and continuing our journey still to the south-east for four hours, during which we went a league and a-half, the hills disappeared towards the centre in their course of west. We proceeded with our journey to the west, leaving, in the middle of the river, after passing the hills, a great quantity of rocks still badly covered, which occasioned a great current, and, having overcome this, we began to pass the first currents arising from the rapid which happened to be near, « The name of a bird of small estimation. 270 SEVENTH CACHOEIRA.* It was not possible, on that day or afternoon, to proceed further than to tow the canoes past two rocky headlands with great difficulty, and we halted at a small ba}^ after ten hours' travelling that day, during which we progressed two leagues and a-half At the place in which stood the first rocky headland, men- tioned above, on the left margin, issues a wide channel between the mainland and an island extending in the direction of the river, which has a bed of solid rock. Quantities of rocks of enormous size are hurled down into both channels, leaving the navigation impracticable, because the water in it has no other outlet than precipices in such a confused position, that an examination of that intricate pass cannot be effected at sight. The channel on the left, which we followed, is interspersed with rocks whence the water, being thrown off with great fury, goes to encounter that which runs close to the bank, that is also of rock with shoals, so that, from the encovinter of these two furious currents, results a continuous series of whirlpools, which every moment engulph in their seething depths the waters and everj'- thing else that they can absorb. For the space of one-third of a league does this terrible way extend, and, having passed it, we soon met with three small rocky islands, against which dash the waters of the main body of the cachoeira called Parica, and between the little islands they ran so furiously that, being intensified by the encounter with each other, they occasion terrible currents and whirlpools, like the preceding ones, which, when in sight of the precipices of the cachoeira and the roar resulting from them, make that watery spectacle more formidable. At the end of the bay, which begins at the headland of rock already mentioned, rises a promontory of gigantic boulders, which, extending as far a.s the middle of the river, give rise to some gorges where the water rushes precipitously. In the same * Note by Tkanslator. — Now called (3L..J^ 271 direction of these rocks follows a roak-isknd thrown length- ways with the river-course. Between this and the rocks, at the distance of three hundred yards, is the largest channel, but it was impracticable on that occasion, when the waters had risen almost half-way up the bank. Between the, island and the mainland on the side of the rocks, there was another outlet of waters, but having precipices of equal extent to the channel on the left. The distance here from one bank to the other is about nine hundred fathoms, with little difference, and its course is from east to west, its latitude north and south, and here were the islands already mentioned. On the 11th, the journey was continued, hauling the canoes close to the bank, which being of rock, this passage gave in- credible trouble. It took us six hours to arrive close to the rocks on the left where we coasted, and we went half a league on our way. Having assembled the canoes at a slight hill which issued behind the rocks, we transported the cargoes to the other side of the cachoeira. This we did overland, a distance of some four hundred fathoms, and it occupied us the rest of the day re- ferred to. On the 12th, we laid a wooden roadway across a ravine in the rocks, nearer the mainland from the same eastern part, where some water flowed, which, being small in quantity, did not offer violence of any account. This gave us an opportunity to push forward the canoes that had remained all the morning above the rapid proper. We effected our object with some considerable effort and "great care to avoid any danger. About two o'clock in the afternoon of the same day, we con- tinued our journey with the course of north-west, coasting to the left, and wp saw to the right a hill which had the same direction as the preceding ones, still in sight of the cachoeira. W^e passed to the course of west, and after a great current that resulted from rocks in the middle of the river, we halted the canoes after three hours' journey, in which we went a league and a-half. , EIGHTH CACHOEIKA* On the 13th day, we prosecuted our journey, coasting to the left with the course of west, and with a little more than four hours' journey, going still with the course of south-west, we found a cachoeira called Maiari, which consists of a great por- tion of rocks that cross the river from one margin to the other with a direction from east to west, and, as the waters had already covered the rocks further to the left, by this way we towed the canoes so as to surmoimt the great current which prevailed for the space of 300 fathoms, more or less, which is about the distance this cachoeira extends along the river, while its width is more than 1,000 fathoms. Having passed this cachoeira without more trouble than stated, we coasted a little to the south, and soon to the south- west, and, at the end of the bay which has this course, there lay in the middle of the river a large rock in the form of an island, from which proceeded a furious current from both margins, and as the lesser was on the right, the canoes went by this. Steer- ing to the south, we arrived at the . mouth of the river called Abona, where the canoes were halted, after nme hours' journey, in which we went four leagues. The river called Abend flows in on the left bank of the Madeira, with little force at its mouth, which is 300 fathoms wide. We navigated in a little light canoe for a day to ascer- tain its direction, and we found it to be from west to east. We did not penetrate further than to meet with a cachoeira which the river forms from one part to the other, with a tolerable height of rocks, between which the water rushes. It is rather abundant in fish, and the banks in game. Its waters are clear and of good taste. The bank is high on both sides, and in few parts flooded at high tide. It is rumoured that a peaceful tribe of Indians called Ferreiilis dwells on this river. They are capable of living in a civilised state by being settled in mission- villages. It was necessary to halt on the 14th day, durinw XuIE ]iY XllAXSLATOll. — XoW CftUcd *-''^*^, 287 circuit of the bay, with that of east, and without further impedi- ment than some currents which were passed rowing. We halted the canoes akeady at the other part of the cachoeira at the right margin, after six hours' journey, in which we went two leagues. This cachoeira, Tapioca; crosses the river with the course of east-north-east, and west-south-west, and is the last that offers before the waters of the river Mamord incorporate themselves with those of the Madeira. This passage we were effecting on February 2nd. On this day we continued our journey, coasting to the right, with the course of east-south-east, leaving on the same margin the first marslies that there are in this river. These are produced by the river overflowing its bed and flooding the land for a distance of more than two leagues to the centre, which forms, as it were, a lake along the direction of the river many leagues in length. A small bank intervenes amidst the marsh, and is covered with lofty vegetation. The land that succeeds towards the centre, which is flooded, is like .a plain, having only a few firm points or islands clothed with vegetation distant from one another ; thus these wide plains are very picturesque. , At these marshes, fish are taken at the time when the inunda- tion prevails and the river has emerged from its bed. At this time, by chance or a marvel, not a fish was to be found. This was also the case with the game — both bird and .quadruped — which retreated to the mainland, a reason why already from this place upwards, a scarcity of provisions began to be felt. This want generally places travellers in great consternation. With the course referred to, towards the east margin, appeared the Cordilheira Geral, following the said river at a distance with an east-south-easterly direction, a course which here begins to give a new direction to the river, as might be judged by the frequency with which the needle now sought the east and south- east. Thus, with six hours' journey, we went four leagues and a-haif, halting the. canoes, when already dark, at the east bank, having started at midday from the place in which we halted the canoes the preceding day. We occupied ourselves on the morn- ing of the present day ia bearing mass and resting from the 288 hard work of the cachoeu-as^ ^he transit of which had been effected mth the success indicated, not without the admiration of the experienced, since in so numerous and toilsome passages not one person experienced danger or hurt out of the one hun- dred whites and indians that constituted our staff, thougTi, on many occasions, all worked, without any exception. On the third day of the same month we began our journey, coasting to the left with the course of south-west, and having recurred once more to that of west-south-west, we crossed to the right, where we coasted to the south-west and south-east, and lastly to the south ; and with twelve hours' journey we went eight leagues. In the course of this day, there was nothing to note except that the river has not a current of any consequence. This is attributable to the impediment which the waters experience in the cachoeiras, and through this cause the waters are restrained and bereft of force throughout the navigation effected above the cachoeiras. In the place in which the canoes were halted on the 3rd day, which was at the east margin of the river, there being in' that spot that which was necessary for repairing the damage the canoes had received in the passage of the cachoeiras, we passed the fourth day in the place referred to. There we repaired whatever was damaged in the embarkations, so as to continue our journey with greater convenience. On the 5th, about four o'clock in the morning, we besran- our journey, coasting the left with the direction of south-east and south, and at the break of day we passed to- the right, and coasted to the south-west, south, south-south-east, and south- eaRt, and with this course we found an island which followed the bend of the river, and between it and the risht bank we navigated. Rounding this bend, we steered all points from south to east, and after navigating to the south-west as far as the place where we halted at the east margin, after eleven hours' travelling, in which we went eight leagues. As far as this place there was no current. On the 6th, at daybreak, we continued our journey with the course of south and south-east, coasting to the left a laro-e bay, 289 and afterwards to the south-east, and lastly to the south ; and with eleven hours' journey we traversed seven leagues. On this day there was still some current, which we overcapie with- out great effort. 7th day. We .began our journey very early in the morning, coasting to the right with the course of south-west and soon to the south and south-east, and whilst steering east-south-east we passed between an extensive flooded island s,nd th3 mainland to the east. Issuing by this channel to the east, at the end of the island on the left side, we navigated to the north-east, north, and once again to north-east, veering thence up to east. With this course we halted the canoes opposite the point of another small island, after ten hours' journey, during which we proceeded seven leagues. On the 8th day, after mass, the canoes started at eight o'clock in the morning, coasting to the right with the course of southr east and south for the space of an. hour, and, crossing to the left, we coasted to the east, south-east, and south ; and with ihis course, it being already four o'clock in the afternoon, we began to find the waters of the river less muddy, which we observed to be the case during the rest of that afternoon, until, when already dark, we judged by what light there was that the water near the left margin was all clear. Directing our course thither we found that there were three mouths in the river in that locality : two on the south, and one to the east, which cir- cumstance, with the diversity of water tha,t is found, renders it certain that one of the two mouths to the south is that of the river Mamord. The 9th day broke, and with its light the delusion which the -previous night had not permitted to be perceived was dispelled. In fact, with the course of south-west, the river Madeira flows in, having a mouth of more than five hundred fathoms, and towards it the canoes were steered, crossing that almost gulf of water formed by this.river and the Apord in the junction that both bodies of water effect, those of the Oapord being very clear, and those of the Mamord having the turbid appearance exhibited by those of the Beni, which continues for the ex- tended space whereof mention has been made in the Diary 290 oa the 2nl day of Ostober of ths precediag year. From the concours3, in this place, of both waters these are extended along the east bank, and form various lakes. The mouth on the east side is that which was noticed on the previous night.. From the mountains of Perd, which form the main chain of the Andes, descends the river Mamord in latitude 18 deg. 30 min. south, and its direction being almost from south to north it meets with the Guapaix, which has its sources from the same mountains mentioned, and passes by Chuquisaca, or the City of La Plata, and by the new Santa Cruz de la Sierra until, in lati- tude 16 deg., it effects, 'with a northerly course, a junction with the Mamor^, and, both incorporated, receiving various torrents which from the western and eastern parts flow to it ; traverses the Province of the Mojos, a level district, slightly fertile, and so sterile of A'iches that it is evident there is no species of metal in its wide tracts ; continues along the same plain, and, passing the lands of the Indians called Cajubabas, blends its waters with those of the Apor^ in latitude 12 deg. 40 min. south. In the year 1723, the Governor of the State of Para, Joao da Gama da Maia, received information from some men who went to the river Madeira to contract for labour that, above its cachoeiras, there were habitations of Europeans, but it was not known for certain whether they were Portuguese or Spaniards. In order to explore the said river he sent a troop, of which Francisco de Mello Palheta was commander, who, after passing the cachoeiras, while navigating, met near the mouth of the Mamor^ a canoe of Spanish indians steered by a mestizo, who guided the said Palheta as far as the villiage of Exalta^ao de Santa Cruz dos Cajubabas, and after holding conference with the missionaries who rule the place, he returned to Par^ with the account of what he found, without further data concernino' the rivers, not only of the Beni which flows in among the cachoeiras whereof mention has already been made, but even of the Apord, which was so clearly shown to him, and which could not but be seen on entering or quitting the said Mamore. Time running on, and Mato Grosso being stocked by the in- habitants of the Cuiaba, in the years 1736-7, there resulted 291 from them new settlements in the year 1742. . '. . These men had a desire to traffic with the neighbouring Castilian priests in order to keep up the supply of cattle and horses, with which object, navigating the Apord downwards, they effected an entrance by the Mamord, and, after a journey of extent,' they halted the canoes at the same village of Santa Cruz dos Cajubabas, where they were well received, but without realising the project they had in view. Three members of this party detached themselves from it, and, proceeding down-stream and, safely crossing the cachoeiras, they arrived at Par^, where, being apprehended, two of them were sent as prisoners to His Majesty for beingtransgressors of the law of . , . , and the third companion called Joaquim Ferreira Chaves, was placed under surveillance of a guard of soldiers. Effecting his escape, he proceeded by the MaranhSo in search of Goiazes, and from these mines he passed to the Cuiaba, and lastly to Mate Grosso, where by means of this inhabitant the first intimation was obtained that by the Madeira communication could be held with Para. Meanwhile., some inhabitants returning to make the journey from Mato Grosso to the villiage of Exalta9ao, without effecting aiiy negotiation, until, in the year 1747, those settle- ments finding themselves in great want of salt, a surgeon called, Francisco R'odrigues da Costa went to trade some of this article, and, in fact, he effected an exchange of dry goods, and also traded in wax and cotton cloth, all of which were useful to him. Induced by his success on this occasion, he established, as it were, a compact with the missionary of the village referred to, the latter giving a list of articles the above-mentioned people desired to exchange, referring for the exchange to the mis- sionary of Santa Rosa, a newly formed settlement on the east margin of the Apore. Indeed, in the following year, 1748, the same Francisco Rodrigues making a purchase in Mato Grosso of assorted goods of which he took a list in writing, and making a journey as far as the said village of Santa Rosa,, he found the population changed in such a manner that not only would they not make an exchange of goods, but even the missionary declined acceptance of a present, with which, as a matter of policy^ 292 the said Francisco Rodrigues endeavoured to flatter him ; giving, as a reason for breaking the engagement, that they had received most stringent orders from their Superior, resident in Santo Cruz de la Sierra that the missionaries of that province should not have any commerce with the Portuguese of Mato Grosso. The surgeon referred to returned by those settlements with the same wares which be had taken to Santa Rosa, and on the occasion of the squadron from Para arriving at the^ settle- ment of S. Francisco Xavier, they were there for sale in a public store. These were, up to that time, the Portuguese voyages on the river Mamore as well from Para as from Mato Grosso. This being premised, it remains for us to give some notice of the villages that there are on the Mamord referred to, and whatever is memorable in connection therewith. Navigating the river Mamord up stream, it was found, after half a day's journey made in a light canoe belonging to the squadron, that its entrance is to the south-west, free from cachoeiras, and has not any islands. It is evident, from the information given by the Portuguese of Mato Grosso, who navigated it as far as Exalta9ao, and from that which has been written and printed in the Spanish lan- sruasce, that this village is the first which occurs in its navigation during eight days' journey up-stream. It has been founded more than fifty years on the west bank of the river, on a flat- piece of land almost square in figure that juts out. The houses are built of mud and thatched with straw. The church has a tiled roof, and is tolerably ornamented. It has missionary-fathers and a coadjutor of the order of Santo Ignacio. It appears that the Indian inhabitants are of the people called Cajubabas, and number nearly three thousand persons, all told, and of these 460 are capable of bearing arms. These Indians occupy themselves in making clearings for maize as food and pasturing somehorned cattle. Their possessions consist of wax, which is extracted from the trunks of trees where the bees naturally deposit it. They weave cotton into clothing, for their wear and for trade purposes, also some sugar, for which they have a mill. They go to Santa Cruz de la Sierra to bargain 293 these wares'for goods, which they need for their use and allowance to the missionary. A few days' journey from this village, on the west margin, a stream called Apord flows in. In the part where it is divided into various branches, is founded the village of Santo' Ignacio, composed of almost three thousand souls, all told; including three hundred and twenty-eight catechumens. Of those already baptised, 570 are able to use arms. Having passed the mouth of this river, at a slight distance from it, to the east, is found the village of S. Pedro, which consists of more than two thousand, among them 926 catechumens and 640 of the neophytes capable of takiag arms. Continuing up-stream there flows in, on the west bank, the stream called Tiamachu, and soon, above its mouth to the left side, is situated the village of S. Xavier, with nearly four thousand souls, and 560 of these Indians capable of being soldiers. Above the mouth, on the east margin, is founded the village of the Santissima Trindade, the inhabitants of which are called Mojos. It has 1,700 souls all told, of those baptised, and 1,106 catechumens, and of theneophytes 750 capable of using their bows. Where the river Mamord, unites with the Guapaix to the east is situated the village called Loreto, also of Mojos, with 2,900 souls, including 923 catechumens, and those baptised 660 capa- ble of bearing arms. Following the Guapaix upwards, quite near the city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, a stream called Palometa flows in on the right. On it is founded the city of S. Jos4 almost on the slope of the Andes chain. It contains 2,105 souls, all told ; and of these 700 are capable of using their darts. Proceeding from the centre to the western part of the Mojos, is founded another vil- lage of S. Jos^ with 3,177 souls, and among them 1,717 cate- chumens, and of those baptised 500 capable of bearing arms. By the same centre, to the western part of Exalta^ao, is located the tribe of the Mobimas, that, in 1709, becoming apostates to the faith, martyred the Venerable Father Balthasar de Espinosa, who had instructed them in a Christian mode of life. By this people were afterwards founded two villages almost at the head waters of the stream Maniqui, which flows 294 into the Mamord a little below that of Exalta^So. These two settlements are named S. Luiz and S. Borja ; the first consists of 1,630 souls, of whom five hundred persons are capable of bearing arms; and the second of 1,300 Indians, of whom 400 are ableto use bow and arrow, arms employed by all the indians above mentioned. All the villages here indicated are missioned by the members of Santo Ignacio, of which sacred order the Venerable Father Espinosa, martyred by the Mobimas, was an alumnus. The - superior of these missionaries assists in the city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and by the direction of this superior is governed all this province, which is called Dos Mojos, through this tribe being the first to relinquish idolatry, a"nd permit the Evangelical promulgation under the monarchs of Castile. The greater part of the land, which the river Mamor^ traverses and where are founded the villages referred to, is so flat that in the rainy season the rivers become swollen to such an extent that the plains are flooded and rendered navigable, the crops receiving great damage. This also impedes the propagation of cattle, and as far as these settlements they suffer great losses, not only from the danger which might result to them from the inundations, but to the towns themselves when the floods are very immoderate. The climate of this region is extremely variable which, besides occasioning terrible maladies, contri- butes very little to the production of fruits and provisions, so that in some of the towns here mentioned they suffer from a con- siderable scarcity of all the necessaries of life. 295 NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER APORE UNTIL ARRIVING At THE MINES ON MA TO GR08S0. Before pursuing the narrative of this diary, from where we began to navigate the river, which the inhabitants of Mato Grosso call Apor4 and the Spaniards Itenes, it- is necessary to give in this place a true notice of the confluence of the waters of this river with those of the Mamor4 in such terms that an opinion may be formed as to which of these two belongs the maternity of the waters that form the river Madeira but as, for want of instruments, we did not make a regular examination of these rivers, we cannot with assurance affirm which of them is the base. It is without doubt, that on crossing both rivers at their mouths one cannot venture to decide, by appearance, with indisputable certainty which is the greater in this part, because they there appear equal. Nevertheless, applying all attention to this examination, all those who are experienced judge that the Apor^ showed the greater width, and soundings having been taken at the months of both, that of the Apord was found to have six and a-half fathoms' depth, and the Mamor^ seven ; but, notwithstanding this excess, it must be considered that the Apor^ has in the part where the trial was made a fathom of sand which crosses its mouth almost from one margin to the other, and, this difference being admitted, no great advantage can be given in this part to the Mamoi-^. On the east side, opposite the mouth of the Mamor^ the Apor^ forms a bay, in which it shows itself to be the recipient, since on the west side the land forms a convex figure where the Mamor^ flows in, and there intervenes between these two bodies 296 of water a small peninsula, as it were, which separates the two rivers, which for three hours' journey run parallel with the course of south-south-west, with which the Mamord keeps on, as already mentioned, and the Apor4~ after the two said hours' journey turns to the east-south-east, which direction it preserves from its source, as will be shown in the course of this Diary. The banks on both margins of the Mamor^ were, in the dis- tance which was traversed up to midday, similar in quality of earth and production of vegetation to those banks which we had observed since we entered the mouth of the Amazon. But it has not any islands, nor does it appear to have any cachoeiras as far as the hiUs where it has its source. The margins of the Apor^ after it takes the direction of east-southi-east, are totally different in the nature of the banks and trees, but it continues with its islands in the same way which it had done from the beginning of the navigation. Its waters,- as already mentioned, are clear, and it only remains to conclude that they are similar in taste and colour to those which are found at the entrance of the river, until they began to become billowy, and to contract impurities that are supposed to proceed from the Beni and Mamord, as has been already related. In view of all the circumstances here briefly referred to, it will not be sufficient to consider the Apor^ as the priiicipal trunk of the Madeira. This opinion has the general support of the Spaniards, who navigated it as far as the long island (whereof notice will be given in its place) ; and they judge it to be the parent-stream, after having navigated almost the whole of the Mamore, which, without doiibt, they found to be smaller. After four days' delay at the mouth of the Apore, we con- tinued our journey on the 14th up the same river with the said course of south-south-west, for the space of three hours, and passing to the south, south-west, east, and with greater fre- quency east-south-east, in twelve hours' journey ten leagues were traversed, without any diminution, witbin that space, of the width it exhibited before receiving the waters of the Mamore, and there was nothing to note further than the diver- sity of courses that were adopted, and which, when in sio-ht, the cordilheira was also observed to follow. 297 On the ISth, we continued our journey with the course of south-east and east, and with two hours' journey there was found to flow in on the left margin a lake of considerable size, and continuing with the same course the needle passed at one bend of the river to' the north, and at another it turned to the east, in which there was found on the same left margin another lake, by which, at the time of flood, the river introduces such an abundance of water that it forms a wide swamp. This it is customary to navigate in ■ search of big game, which withdraw to the firm land in the centre. From the course referred to we turned to the -south at another bend, and with it we halted the canoes at the west bank,, which was not flooded, having gone seven leagues in nine hoUrs' travelling. On the 16th day, we continued on our way with the course of south-east, coasting to the left, and passing to that of east, we found an island lying lengthways along-stream which we had no sooner passed, with the course of east-south-east, than, with this same course, we found another island of less extent than the preceding ; and, navigating by the channel on the left, at a little distance, with the same course, we found that the river effected an entrance by the land on the same left bank, expanding itself into a very wide swamp, the mouth of which differs little from the width of the river, which from this place begins already to grow narrower, and only in the parts where there are islands does it divide itself into large bays. After seven hours' journey we halted the canoes, and went, on that day, about six leagues, through having encountered little current. On the 17th, we started on our journey at four o'clock in the morning, steering to the east, and soon we passed to the south- east, and daybreak found us steering south-south-east, with which .course and that of south we went two hours, and on doubling, with this course, the promontory of a bay, we saw in -the middle of it a canoe close by the bank on the right, and scon another pushed off from the left margin towards the one we first saw, for which place we were making our way, and on arriving near we- found the canoe that crossed, and which wag drawn up a distance of two boat-lengths off the shore, waiting the novelty which it offers to the Indians to see embarkations 298 different to their own, not only in build, but also in mode of navigating. Not making any attempt to halt, we continued on our way, without altering or diminishing the ordinary speed with which we were accustomed to travel. As soon as the distance would permit their voices to be heard, the Indians who were waiting called out loudly, saying these few words in Spanish, " Friends, friends Christian by the grace of God,' accompanying this protest with affirmative actions, one of them drawing from his head a cap, and frequently raising his hand to his breast in token of goodwill and sincerity. Recognising these Indians as being domesticated, as well as several of them that were on the bank in front of the two canoes, and that they uttered the same sounds as the first, our embarkations passed among them without our giving them any further recognition than that our Indians replied with the same words, " Friends, friends," etc., and, as no intercourse with them was admitted, they remained apparently occupied with admira- tion, following us only with their gaze, and resting immovably on their oars. The canoes in which they navigate are similar to those that our (Portuguese) Paulistas use, and are called ubds. They are formed from a bole fifty, sixty, and more palms in length, and from seven to ten in width, without further embellishment than hollowing out the interior with an axe, and cutting out the prow of it from three to five palms with the same implement. In these the Indians row standing, as 'many of them as the length of the canoe will allow. Two persons steer, one at each end, each with his oar supplying the place of a rudder. The dress of these Indians consists of-some cotton tunics, well woven, and without sleeves or an opening of any kind at either side, which cover the body half way down the leg, with the hair down long in plaits, or tied at the nape of the neck, and all of them with rosaries of beads or medals hanging to the neck. Only one indian,who, among those in the canoe, showed distinction, was he who mosts trenuously made amicable demonstrations by words and gestures. He wore a shirt, though not of linen; nor was it machine-woven, for it was of a membrane that grows between the bark and trunk of some trees ; over this a jacket of b] ue flannel, cut 299 in the Spanish style ; his hair was gathered into plaits,' and his head covered with a turban, also blue, which he removed with great promptitude when .he gave the first announcement of his politeness and Christianity. That bay finishes with the course of south-east, and soon there follows another in that of east, where we saw some islands, which experienced persons said were a quarter of a league distant from the village of Santa Rosa, and, as it was necessary to pass out of sight of the said village, in accordance with the orders that the squadron should not be forestalled by the mis- sionary, we took the expedient of collecting all together at one of the said islands, and navigating by night in front of the said village with the requisite silence, so aM to- avoid any encounter of questions and replies ; and accordingly it was ten o'clock in the morning when all the canoes were halted at an island by the right margin, between which and the mainland there intervened a channel of, apparently, little more than two hundred fathoms. Here we halted for a donvenient length of time. It was three o'clock in the afternoon when from between the forest-clumps on the banks in front where the canoes were moored, two small ubds issued, each of them steered by two Indians, who no sooner saw our canoes than they made for them, and when they had already arrived at a little distance off, they droned out the cry of the preceding ones, laying stress on " Santa Rosa, Santa Rosa ; " and, notwithstanding that we gave them to understand that they should retire and go their way, they did not attend to that, intimation until, with great emotion, they drew nearer to the canoes, and, amidst apparent smiles, in fact, reached them, repeating the expressions of friendliness they proffered before, and, as they gave us to understand that they were going from their settlement to the village of Santa Rosa, the chief of the squadron deliberated so as to devise a means of deterring them from doing so, in order that they might not go and give an 'account of the meeting, and thus enable the missionary to make inquiries about our canoes. Accordingly, we began to traffic with them, and by means of the same CastiUian phraseology, together with great courtesy, we 9ff^cte4 the purchase of a little maize which they carried 300 with them, and of some fruits, which they willingly bartered for fish-hooks and Flemish knives. We asked them if their plantations were a long way off, and if they could go and fetch some more maize and fruits, since what they had just sold was so small a quantity for such a number of people, and we showed them needles and glass trinkets to excite their cupidity. They conferred among themselves about the matter ; and, asking if we would wait there untU early the following morning, and hearing us reply in the affirmative, they turned with all haste towards the spot whence they had issued, and plunged into the forest ; and for a time that embarrassment was overcome. Meanwhile, the chaplain of the squadron made a requisition to the commandant thereof, seeking permission to go to that first village to confess to the missionary of it, as he felt indis- posed to say mass without that sacrament, which he needed. He was answered that, according to the orders which he was obliged to obey, he had not the power to grant such a per- mission ; that the reverend gentleman was well aware of the precautions and subterfuges he was then adopting in order to conceal our voyage from the CastiUian priest, and it was not right that all this should be set at nought, and in disregard of the orders of His Majesty conferring on himself that power which the reverend gentleman requested him to exert. This reply, though it would have been conclusive to any sin- cere and rational mmd, was not so to the said priest, friar Joap de S. Tiago, a Capuchin of the Provincia da Conceieao da Beira, because he pressed his case with the commander with unusual petulancy, concluding that in case of having orders from His Majesty, they did not apply to him, because he, the said priest, had no obligation to obey them, and that if he (the commandant) did not wish to gi'aut the permission that he (the priest) sought, he would not say mass any more. To this, finally, the chief replied that it would be easier for him to die than to grant such permission. So that, ill satisfied, the said priest retired to his canoe, showing that he did not pay attention to the refusal of the permission he requested. Night came on, and orders were given to all the canoes that followed their leaders in that of the vangaiard, in which the commandant travelled ; and, in particular, the two Indians wh 5 sol steered the boat of the chaplain were warned not, under any circumstances, to withdraw from the protection of the other canoes, although the priest should wish differently, under pain of severe castigation. We continued our journey, coasting to the right with the course of east-south-east, and soon the hills on the right margin were seen, on the slope of which is built the said village of Santa Eosa, in the bay in the direction referred to, wherein we passed all the bay and the cachoeira which there is in the river, arising from the various shoals of rocks which issue from the hills men- tioned, and cross from one bank to the other along the land on which is built the said village, the river there having the width of the range of a cannon-shot. No other trace of the cachoeira was found than that of a greater current than ordinary, which was easily overcome by oar, as the rocks were already entirely covered through the rise of the river ; and so, with two hours' journey, after passing the village indicated and the cachoeira the canoes were halted at nine o'clock in the night at the margin> of the other bay to the right, having, in eight hours' journey during the whole of that day, gone seven leagues. The sentries were doubled that night to avoid any escape of the Indians, but they were not able to avoid the desertion of the said priest, who, that same night, favoured by the darkness of it, hid in one of the two little fishing-canoes ; and, when these started very early in the morning (as was usual) in search of game, the priest persuaded the indians to take and land him at the village and straightway return.- This was easy for him to effect, because the indians are of a very fickle disposition, and they have no repugnance tq being persuaded to any mis- demeanour, and the vile interest of a little spirits suffices to buy them over as slaves to any purpose. At five o'clock on the 18th, we began our journey without having the least knowledge of the assistance related, until, the day breaking, those who managed the canoe of the chaplain < gave notice that he was not in the canoe ; neither had anything issued from it, nor that of an Indian fisher in the service of the priest, who was also missing. Then was supposed that which, was mentioned above, after verifying from the sentinels that only 302 tlie little fishing eanoes had started early that morning. Such an nnlooked-for event caused a very great commotion ; but as the religious gentleman had only taken his breviary with him, for that was what was missing in the canoe, we resolved to wait that day, but in a distant part, so as not to expose the squadron to new desertions of some soldiers of the indians. Accordingly, continuing our journey to the east-south-east and east, we found, with this course,, that on the west side another river called Itonomas flows in, which by appearance has a width at the mouth of 400 fathoms. Its name is derived from a trib? of indians who have settled there in two villages, the one calledS. Martinho, and the other Santa Maria Magdalena, mis- sioned by the friars of Santo Ignacio, subject, like the preceding ones, to the superior of Santa Cruz de la Sierra. In this village of Santa Maria Magdalena, which is eight days' journey up-stream from the mouth of the Itonomas, Francisco Leme and his com- panions stopped when they made the first navigation by the Apor^ downwards, and of which mention has already been made. They say that -on a stream which flows into the Itonomas there is another mission dedicated to St. Peter. It was not possible to ascertain the number of indians in this or the two referred to, but the contents and trade resemble those of the two villages of the Mojos and their neighbours. This river Itonomas has its entrance to the south-south-west, and its waters are clear and similar in taste to those of the Apore. We continued our journey, leaving astern a great current arising from rocks which there are on the left margin in front of the mouth of the Itonomas, and of an island which extends along-Stream, at the point of which the same Itonomas flows in,, and having navio-ated two hours with the course of east we found that it flowed into the Apore. We continued our journey, already leaving astern a great current arising from rocks which there are on- the same west bank, another stream almost equal in width at its mouth to the preceding. It is called Baures, the name of a tribe of indians that dweU there, and are to be found congregated in mission vil- lages like the Itonomas. Its direction appears to be to the south- west and its waters are very similar to those of the Mamord and Beni, but as they are less in bulk, their turbid nature js not 803 ■ apparent in the Aport?. It is reported that there are four vil lages on this river, namely, N. Senhora da Concei^ao, S. Martinho, Trindade, and S. Gabriel, all presided over by members of the religious order already referred to. Their com- munication with the city of Santa Cruz do la Sierra, to the Superior of which they are subject, is by navigating down-stream, towards the Apore, and descending by this to enter the Mamor4 ascending which, after a two months' voyage on the ' Mamor^ alone, they reach the city referred to. The same thing happens to the members pf the mission of Itonomas for their annual supply of necessaries. These consist of the same kinds of cotton, wax, and sugar, which the missions of the Mojos use for bargaining. The tract which these two rivers traverse towards the Apore is level and floodable, anidoes not produce metals of the same sort as the land of which mention has already been made, when in this Diary we treated of the Mojos. The climate throughout this region is so irregular, that there is no perceiving any change of seasons throughout the year, since a perpetual summer-heat is maintained, while suddenly a very cold wind from the south might spring up. This change throws the human system into disorder, and occasions in the inhabitants many and very perilous diseases ; and from this variableness, which is abriost continual, those plains are incapable of producing the fruits of Europe, and there is barely a moderate crop of some vegetables and rice, as well as plantations of sugar-cane. These missions of the Baures were founded in the last' years of the past century and the first of the present, the apostle of this gentile mission being the Venerable Father Cypriano Baraso, a native of Navari'e, and illustrious son of Saint Ignatius, who after twenty-seven years of immense labour in the conversion of many barbarous nations, and having founded the village of Santissima Trindade, was martyred by the said Baures in the year 1.702, at the age of sixty-one. Having passed that district in which the Baures flows in, we pursued our journey with the same course of east, and halted the canoes at eleven o'clock in the day at the east margin, where we were still more than five leagues distant from the village of Sta, Hosa ; and on this day, in 5 hours' journey, we went 4 leagues. In this place the commandant determined to wait and see what might turn up about the chaplain, and, it being already five o'clock in the afternoon, the little fishing-cknoe of the squadron arrived. Having asked the soldier, who went with authority, regarding the absence of the priest, he did not give any information ; and,- being questioned respecting the other little canoe in which two Indians and a white Paulista went out on a hunting- trip for the staff of the two priests Josd Leme dp Prado and Francisco Xavier, who accompanied the squadron, replied that this little canoe started at the same time in the morning, and proceeded up-stream as far as the first island. They then put the canoe about and came down-stream along the other " side of the river, and did not turn to look, nor did anyone quit the canoe but the usual persons. He was perfectly sure that the priest had effected his flight in the little canoe of the missionaries, this view being supported further by the fact that there was in the nature of the said Paulista every disposition to allow himself to be persuaded by the imprudent suggestions of the said priest. In a little while this statement was verified, because the Paulista arrived at seven o'clock in the evening in his canoe, so confident and satisfied with himself as if he had achieved some feat of eternal renown, for being asked regarding what had hap- pened, he replied that he entered the little canoe of the priest over-night, and when it started with the other at dawn, he took it to the village, and returning soon with the said priest, looking from the point of the headland, and seeing the canoes in the same place the priest presumed that his absence was already known, and returned with him to the village, and from there he sent to fetch his luggage, as was set forth in a letter tbe same priest wrote to the chief and which he presented to him. This Paulista, who was called Joao Leme, was placed in irons as a recompense for the great action which he thought he had accomplished. The letter of the priest having been read, it was found to contain what the said Leme had asserted, stating, moreover, that he wished to take in that place a cure for some ailments which vexed him, and after having recovered, he would follow on his journey as far as the large island or Mato Grosso in a canoe of that mission. This unfortunate resolution com- 305 pletely disturbed the repose and quiet with which for so many months we had journeyed up to this place, A great perplexity was offered in the resolution which had to be taken on account of this embarrassment, without prejudice to the royal service, because, in order to go and fetch the priest by force, it was necessary to show the authority which, perhaps, was not yet known to the Castillian missionary. To continue our joiirney without the chaplain would result in far more serious consequences, because if any of the Indians should die without being confessed it would not be practicable to get any of them to navigate our boats. This difficulty we had already begun to experience. The same thing occurred, with the whites, as was presently found ; and, moreover, if the father chaplain had not already revealed anything about the details of the flotilla, he would be able, after being irritated through our not having sent him his luggage (which the fierceness of his temper, or continued communication and familiarity with the Castillian might induce him to carry off, after committing the greatest excesses), to relate everything about it, and to give every - information as to altitude and courses steered to the same missionary, from whom it was so necessary to conceal all acquaintance with the operations of the escort, since that was the most stringent of the orders given it on starting. Accordingly, it was necessary tq^use some judgment to extri- cate ourselves from the difficulty without embarrassment, which , would produce ' disagreeable results to' his Majesty the King. With this object the commandant conferred on the subject with Jos^ Gonsalves da Fonseca, who was taken with the escort with' the object of furnishing the necessary data for this Diary The conclusion arrived at was that, in any case, the chaplain ought not to be left behind, for the reasons above stated ; while it would be equally unadvisable to repair thither and remove him bv force. The medium course which offereu itself was that, as there were in the squadron two missionaries, Jos^ Leme do Prado and his brother Paulo Leme, who in coming from Mato Grosso had stapped at that village and conversed with the mis- sionary of it, these two could go with the pretext of introducing tb^lljSeh^fS t9 thQ Tillage, m^ when the^ sbwW find W oppor- tune oCcfision they should use all diligence to persuade the chaplain to return ; and so that these two men should not in any way overstep the commission given to them, they were accompanied by a person of confidence in , disguise, who was charged to keep near when they were talking to -the Castilliau priest, in order that they might not have an opportunity of explaining any matter which it was not desirable they should communicate. The Chief concurred in this view, which he stated he would put into execution provided the said Jos^ Gonsalves should be the one to accompany the Lemes, and take upon himself also the duty of persuading the priest to return. There was no hesita- tation on the part of the person invited in accepting the com- mission, as soon as he could get ready the canoe, men, and arms that he thought proper as a safeguard against anything that might occur. To this decision the captain assented, and fixed the following day for the task. At daybreak on the 19th of February, Jose Gonsalves sent to unload his canoe, and delivered to the Chief papers which he carried respecting the voyage. He chose four soldiers and a sergeant, and assigned places to two Indian rowers and two mestizoes, their slaves, and a negro, and with three other black slaves of the Lemes they were to work the canoe, taking only one dozen Indians qualified as pilots, and two picked men for the bow, with arms proportionate to the number of whites and slaves, who were embarked with Jose Leme and Paulo Leme. At eight o'clock in the morning they started on their way down-stream. On the way there was sufficient time to instruct the Lemes iu the course which they should pursue with regard to the mis- sionary, and they were advised that in his presence tbey were to treat the said Jos^ Gonsalves as their servant, so as to adapt he treatment with the humble dressu in which he was attired, without admitting him to any share in the conversation ; and when, whilst still a long way off, the village was seen, the soldiers were assembled under the awnings, with the order not to appear' unless called. At eleven o'clock in the morning the canoe stopped at the 307 village, and the three persons selected having disembarked, the canoe was made to stand off from the shore, so as not to have any intercourse with the Spanish ondians, who soon ran to the bank to stare at the visitors. They repaired to the missionary, whom they found in the refectory with the Franciscan, and as the house was built of mud, with an open door, the inmates could observe everybody that passed. As soon as the Jesuit saw the Lemes, he called them in and made room for them at table, which they accepted courteously, saying at the same time that they would go outside and wait awhile, and after dinner they would converse more at leisure. The missionary placed them at table, and some roast, mutton and custard composed the meal, whereof the Lemes placed a portion on a plate for their new servant, who withdrew from the table and , ate the food standing up, until the time arrived for the missionary to receive his guests, he having already dined. The Jesuit again began complimenting his friends, but he soon began to complain about their not having stopped when they passed, nor at least permitted a religious priest- from having the consolation of performing those acts of piety which the prescriptions of the faith he professed imposed upon him, and that in this respeet they had exercised great tyranny with that reverend gentleman, to whom, on account of his character,^ all respect was due. To this complaint Josd Leme replied that, as regards having not stopped at the village, two reasons prevented ^ their having the pleasure of paying their respects to his reverence : the first was the fear that some of their slaves should escape from them, as had occurred when they were performing the journey down- stream, as his reverence could well remember, because, when a carijo escaped to his port, he was unable to recover him ; the second was that they feared to stop, lest, if they left that village without the carijo they might encounter near the river Mamore the reverend visiting father who was journeying up-stream, who , would endeavour to stop them and force them to turn back, saying that it was not permitted to the Portuguese to navigate that river ; and the more so if the priest should attempt to use any violence, seizing upon the canoe so that it should not advance, 308 — that he supposed the said visiting father might leave orders at the village that such a stoppage should be imposed upon them. This was the reason that induced himself and his companions to hold aloof; and as for the priest, they had for the same reasonsfor- bidden him to go to the village, adding, moreover, that he had come in the canoe of a very impertinent man, a resident of Par^ who was proceeding on business to Mato Grosso, who, from the above- mentioned things that he had heard, did not wish under any con- sideration to stop at the village, -and that he, the said Jos^ Leme, seeing what had happened, and feeling for the reverend gentle- man, had placed his little canoe at the service of the priest, in order that he might proceed in it to effect his reconciliation, and the father (who was then present) could prove whether that was the truth or not. To this the Franciscan said that he perceived the idea very well, and for this reason he believed that what Leme had been saying was nothing short of the truth, and that his complaint was not against him, but concerning the gift of the canoe in which he had performed his journey. As for the' excuse of not stopping at the village, he thought it a lame one, since the object in view was the service of God. To this Leme replied, that his visit there was with no other intention than to offer his reverence a passage in his canoe if he wished to continue his journey. Then followed the excuses of the Fran- ciscan, and other words of little importance, from time to time. Thereupon, the missionary, in turn, said to Leme that, as far as he understood, regarding the order restricting the passage- of the Portuguese, none such existed, and the only instructions on the subject were- those by the Superior, under pain of excom- munication, that neither he nor any other missionary of the villages bordering on Mato Grosso should have any traffic ^vith its residents, as regards purchases and sales ; but there was no prohibition restricting them from bestowing as alms on pas- sengers that which they might need for their sustenance ; and thus, if he, Jos^ Leme, needed anything, he would attend to the matter with the greatest pleasure. Having thanked him for his offer, he added that, if his reverence would grant him per- ijiissjon to buj son^e live-stock, he would esteem it much, There S09 was no doubt that, by this time, the missionary was restored to ^ equanimity. Quitting the field, so as to enter into argument with the Father Chaplain, he retired with the Jose Gonsalves referred, to to a place suitable for the discussion as to whether or not to return to the escort, and after a slight resistance to our first solicitation and urgings, he agreed to continue his journey on condition that the Indian fisherman who had accompanied him should not be punished. Our word having been given that the Indian should not be molested, with the assurance that it was not he who deserved castigation, the priest inqflir6d what had passed with the missionary regarding the escort. He was assured that not a word was spoken on this subject, smce the pretext he gave for "undertaking this journey was that he had come in search of some alms for his hospice, hoping to be able to proceed with those wares to Minas. He easily believed this portion of the affair, seeing that the missionary had not given . any intimation of being aquainted with the real state of things. Accordingly, there only remained to make a^careful examina- tion as to what the village consisted of. To this we could obtain - the consent ol the missionary, if we could influence the minds of the Cacique* and Alcaide by bribes of trifling value, such as fish-hooks, needles, wild grapes, etc. Such gifts facilitated one's entry into all the houses which we thought it worth while to make a note of, and induced the greater number to sell us some birds and maize-meal. Subsequently to the first voyage, in the year 1742, that the inhabitants of Mato Grosso, alread}' mentioned, made, by way of the river Apor^ down-stream, and after they visited the villages of Santa Maria Magdalena do Itonomas, and Exalta9ao do Mamord, the Father Athanasio Theodosio, of the Italian nation, founded the village of Santa Kosa on the east margin of the Apore, at no great distance from where the outlet called S., Miguel flows in on the west margin ; but the locality not pleasing him, on account of the great number of antswhich devoured the germinating plants, the said priest moved it down- stream to the place where it exists to-day, which is on the bank ' * This is a name given to the iudian the itiemhers of whoge trite consi4er tijjejpsejyeii fis hjs Tftsp.^Js, 310 of the river by the east margin, almost on the slope of the Cor- dilheira Geral, which in that place approaches the river and causes the cachoeira that has been already alluded to in this Diary. In the dry season it is rather complicated, and with the river at half height is very dangerous, since the channels are interspersed with rocks, but cannot be avoided, in consequence of the furious^ natuie of the current. The plain on which this village is situated stands in IS deg. south latitude. It was cleared of vegetation, the rocks extending on the banks of" the river for the space of a quarter of a league as far as the starting-point of the mountains which run along the flank. Following the course of the riv^, and facing it, are built the church, the house of the missionary, and of the indians. It has a frontage of 600 fathoms, stretching along the river in the direction of east-south-east. From the extremities on each side of the village thick forest extsnds from the margin of the river as far as the, hills, forming almost a semi-circle. It is a pleasant prospect when, from the top of the bank, the gaze wanders over that plain, the woods, and mountains. Thechurchconsistedonlyof a nave, without proportion between the height and length. It is constructed of wood and mud, and is completely destitute of ornament. The sole article 6i fur- niture was a silver lamp of rough construction and not much workmanship, which shed its light on the host, which is guarded in the principal chapel. Only in the sanctum itself, but not on the exterior, was there anything to show that such a sacred deposit was there. They say that there are valuable chasubles, in which the missionary attires himself on the prin- cipal feasts of the year. The sacristy runs at the same height as the rest of the church, and so does the house of the missionary, which is composed of three little rooms, consisting of a reception room, and there is a smaller one as a sleeping compartment. Then comes a large' house, which is the only one that is tiled, and pillars to support it. Here there was a carpenter's shop, where were, some speci- mens of wood, skilfully worked, and the leaves of some doors were already made, also windows. In the same building was 311 also a loom, in which cotton thread was being spun. The cloth was not inferior in .texture and closeness to the best production of Guimaraes. There were Indians of that same village who were skilled in both those manufactures. After this large house followed — similar in height and construction — two houses, the one a refectory an.d the other a dispensary, i'rom here, as far as the church, the roof was covered with tiles, repaired here and there with a species of grass that resembles the reed of Europe. This supplies the place of tiles. The village is of a long shape, has two streets of houses arranged in ' straight lines, and built in the portion opposite the church. Between this and the former intervenes a tolerably spacious piece of ground. The poverty of the Indians is suf- - ficiently manifested in the humble construction of the dwellings. Few of them are built of mud and straw, and the greater part of the latter material alone, which is woven in such a manner as to form the walls and roof. To this outer poverty c6rrespoiids the penury within, because, without any distinction of grade among the Indians, they huddle together in a miserable ham- mock to sleep, and they have a set of several earfihem pots in which they prepare the maize in many forms, all as insipid to the taste as disagreeable to the ^ight. The females are occupied in this service, and others in spinning cotton for the manufac- ture of tunics, in which the men as well as the women attire themselves, with this difference, that the latter use the garment as a kind of dressing-gown, without sleeves, which covers them down to the feet, while, with the men, it reaches half-way down the leg, without any opening in-front, and is worn as an indication of tribal fraternity. These Indians are very well framed, and have a commanding appearance. Their arms are the ordinary ones, bow and arrow, and tv-e noted that they had not in their, ho.uses any other kind of weapon offensive .or defensive. The first tribe that was catechised for this village is called Aricoroni, another being added soon afterwards. Both were dwellers of- the neighbour- hood, and their numbers now united in the village amount to 500 persons all; told, among whom 150 are capable of bearing 312 arms. The missionary who officiates and instructs them was the one who formed them into a community, and who was there on the occasion of our visit. His name and nationality have already been referred to. All these indians are ill-satisfied with the administration of the Spaniards, because the Cacique who was best instructed of them aU in the Spanish language complained of the excessive paucity in the supply of agricultural implements and of hooks for fishing, so that they have not even a knife forxommon use, and were often forced to use their stone hatchets to cut wood in the same way they had to . do before they were civilised. Their possessions consist of cotton, some for est- wax, and cattle, which they graze on the small patch of land that intervenes between the village and the hills. Asking the Cacique what was the object of the wrought woods and the cloth which was being woven near the house of the missionary, he replied that the priest intended to move the village to a central spot near the hill-range, and that those woods were for the new church and the houses of the priest, and the cloth was that which they had been accustomed to weave every year to take to Santa Cruz in order to obtain what was necessary for the church and missionary, and some articles for the indians. The configuration of the perspective which this village forms is offered in the following sketch in which it is depicted. The hours of meditative retirement of the Eather Missionary being over by three o'clock in the afternoon, the chaplain pre- pared to embark. He carried with him, besides the breviary which only he took to the village, a well-stocked wallet, through the beneficence of the Italian religious order which that mis- sionary represented, for which the Franciscan could not thank him too much. "With affability and courtesy the Mineiros said farewell, recommending particular attention whicb they said was due to the religious gentlemen ; and, after some more general words of leave-taking, the bank was reached, whither the guests were accompanied by their hosts. The canoe was ordered up, and the visitors embarked, .continuing their journey liUtU four o'clock in the afterugon, fin4 joined the escort at 313 eleven o'clock at night, the priest entering his canoe as silently as he had left it. On the 20th day, at daybreak, we continued our journey with the course of south-east for two hours, seeing the Cordilheira Geral to the left, and, passing to the course of south-south-east, the hills were lost to view. Having proceeded by this course for little more than an hour, we turned to the south-east, and soon to the east, and, passing to the north-east, we found that the river opens out in two large bays, the waters of which flow round an island almost triangular in shape. At the bank which presently followed on the left, the river expanded into a lake after which comes a large marsh, the river now taking anoth-er bend to the east. With this course we saw on the right the first plain, along which we coasted for the space of two hours, and halted the canoes after ten hours' journey, during which we had gone seven leagues, in consequence of some currents which we encountered, because the height of the river had already increased considerably. For this reason the scarcity of fish became continually greater, so that already at this height we had to abandon the use of the line, nor could we hope to sus- tain ourselves by our guns. This plain stretched inland as far as the eye could reach, and the pilots said that it extended in the same manner as we saw here for many leagues, and they were certain that in it, as well as in most of the othei-s that follow, is seen a portion of the low land which stretches, eastwards from the mountains of Perii. This track is traversed by the rivers whereof mention has already been made in this Diary. The river is accustomed to overflow these plains at the point of its highest flood, forming, every year, lagoons and very wide swamps. This prevents the deer-hunting, which is usually abundant. Nevertheless, these flooded plains are frequently navigated in small ubds (canoes), and on the heights of land which escape inundation they say that there is an abundant supply of game. The lagoons also supply those fish that, wandering with the flood from the channel of the river, find this new habitation. Here, when the river goes down, and the -lagoons get dried up, those fish that remain in them serve as 314 food for the birds which gather there in troops, and in the course of time add to the fertility. 21st day. At three o'clock in the morning we began our journey with the course of east, and soon passed to the south and south-west, the plain continuing. On the west and and on the east are sonie lakes that expand themselves until they mix their waters with those of some pools that the river makes in penetrating the land by various mouths. In little canoes they enter by the lagoons, and, issuing to the pools, large bends in the river are avoided and the journey is made shorter. This is not possible in canoes of forty palms and iipwards, because it is necessary to lop away the thick vegetation which, interlaced together, impedes the chaimels by which the water of the river is conveyed to the centre. At this height the navigation of the river does not tend con- siderably to the south, since it inclines so much to the east, while at many of the ben,ds it changes to the north and north- east, and, abandoning these directions, it passes again to the east and south-east, continuing to the east-south-east, which it preserves for some distance, and is the true course. With these points here indicated we passed the lagoons and pools referred to, and soon, after expanding for no great distance, the river began to form other marshes at its entrance on the left margin. These communicated with the preceding ones. Two little islands followed soon afterwards, of a long shape, extending in the direction of the river, which formed between them and the margins three channels, where there was some current. Having passed the islands and the bay in which they were located, we steered to the east, and now on the right plains no longer were to be seen, only a large river-mouth of equal size with the channel of the river. This we navigated in error for a quarter of an hour, and we found that that great volume of water divided itself into three branches : two along the margins of the river, and the other which dilates towards the centre. Having discovered our mistake by the absence of cuiTent, we turned the canoes, and, issuing again to the main stream, we continued to the left with the accustomed points above indicated. Presently, passing upwards to the mouth referred to, we came 315 across another , also to the right, which we let alone, and pro- ceeded on our journey to the left, and, navigating with the -course of east, we met with the canoe of the vanguard (which . was that cf the chief of the escort), with a large ubd (canoe) measuring sixty palms, with a cabin at the stern ornamented with leather, having doorways cut in it, which presented the appearance of -a hired sedan chair. In it was travelling a priest of Santo Ignacio from the village of S. Miguel to Santa Eosa. The Spanish Indians rested on their oars, so as to draw up the lobd alongside our canoe. The loud salutations which the Indians exchanged with one another, such as " Friends, friends !" etc., fetched the Jesuit out of his cabin, and, seeing the novelty, he saluted the sergeant-major, to which the latter responded, and soon the priest asked him whither we were going. He answered, that we were going up-stream. " That is the truth," replied the priest, " but is your worship proceeding to Mate Grosso ? " He satisfied that question with another in the following words, " Is that district far from here ? " The priest contented himself with replying that, from there to the long island would be eight days, and from this to Mato Grosso, he had heard it said, would be twenty. The sergeant thanked him for his information, and, presently putting an end to the inter- view by bidding farewell, he ordered that his canoe should be rowed on. Those in the ubd did the same, and, on passing the main body of canoes, which we were just coming up with, the priest ordered three mvisket-shots to be fired as a salute, which was received' with general silence. - ' ' We continued our journey to the east, the whole of the bay on the right being swampy, and, passing to the points of north and north-east, we found an island which followed the bend of the same river stretching a good distance lengthways close by the left bank. The width is narrow here, and the whole of the land is subject to be flooded. Soon afterwards, passing to the south-west, we found a lake on the left, and, after proceeding to the east, a very long reach. Nearly the whole of the land along the right margin was level. Having passed two large islands, we halted the canoes, after ten hours' journey, during which we traversed eight leagues, 316 On the 22ndj we began our journey with a north-easterly course, which we soon changed for the east-south-east, and with this we saw the first plains on the left, which, near the margin, were already to a great extent inundated. Iliese plains are densely overgrown with forest, descending from the slope of the Cordilheira Geral, which runs parallel to the river ; and within view of these same plains and hills we continued our journey with the same course of east-south-east and at the same plain, to the left, we halted the canoes, after thirteen hours' journey, during which we had gone ten leagues. At the beginning of these plains was the first site of the vil- lage of Santa Rosa, apd because of the immense number of ants it was moved down-stream, as has already been mentioned in this Diary. 23rd day. We began our journey to the north-east, and pre- sently to the east and south-east, with which course the plain ended in a very large swamp where the waters congregated, so they said, from the hUls as Well as the plain. We issued into the river by a mouth of equal extent with the river itself, and a little further on, having passed a small island, the river widens to a broad bay, in which an island that follows the course of the river formed two channels, either of which is of considerable width, and in that to the east of the preceding swamp it dis- charges itself by another mouth still larger than the one already mentioned ; and into that on the west flows a wide-mouthed stream having a tolerably large volume of water. The large bay finished to the south, and about nine o'clock in the morning we saw a small ubd containing some domesticated Indians from the village of S. Miguel, with whom we did not have any intercourse whatever, and only on passing them did we hear their customary salutations, increasing in loudness, " S. Miguel, S. Miguel," etc. We went but a little way with the course of south, because we soon navigated to the south-east and east, and at four o'clock in the afternoon we found the bank on the left to be a high cliff, where we found some remains of there having been Indian plan- tations in that place ; and, in fact, one of our Indians havinc landed saw from the top of the bank a wide extent of land planted 317 with maize. After half an hour's journey from that high bank, the latter ran towards the hill range, whence issued a stream almost equal in size to the main channel of the river, and a little further on another similar one flows in, both combining to form the greatest unison of waters that there is on that margin. Continuing our journey with the same course of east and east-south-east, having passed the last stream at one hour's journey, we found another flowing in on the right margin far greater in size than the preceding, and that mouth is the stream accepted to be that of the river called S. Miguel, while really it is the stream Apord, since from the water of the same river, without mixture with any other, it has its entrance half a day's journey from that mouth along the main channel of the river, and inside we expended more than a day in passing a very extensive island, as great in length as in width, which intervened between two large channels which the river formed here, the principal being the one we were navigating to the left. At seven o'clock at night we halted the canoes, after eleven hours' journey, in which we had gone nine leagues. The village of S. Miguel was very near the spot where we halted the canoes, and as the villagers ran together from the plantations in order to hear mass on the following day, being the 24th of the month, dedicated to the Apostle S. Mathias, some uids of Indians passed. The natives were struck with the novelty of the event, and wanted to enter into conversation ; and, in order to avoid them, we passed the canoes over to the other margin of the river, opposite the village, whereupon we received no further visits. On the 24th day, we celebrated mass very early in the morn- ing, so as to proceed forthwith on our journey ; but we. were obliged to delay, as the adjutant of the escort, Aniceto Francisco de Tavora, who carried in his charge the provisions to be served out to the soldiers and Indians, represented to the sergeant- major in command that there was not sufficient flour in the commissariat for eight days' journey, even allowing each person merely the rations for one meal a day as we had been giving ; that the river did not supply fish, which had been carried into the forest by the floods, and that the latter did not furnish any 318 species of game, for whatever they might have obtained had retired to the maialand. In that extreme necessity he required, in the name of the soldiers and indians, that, before passing for- ward from that village, some expedient for help should be taken so as to supply at least two meals a day, seeing that there was no other means of sustenance for the rowers, while on their healthy condition depended the completion of the voyage, and more particularly as some of the indians were already beginning to fall ill, and these could not improve or recover their strength without some chickens, so as to aid by nourishment the good effect of the remedies employed, which, without this assistance, were not only useless but became prejudicial. The Mineiros, who on their journey were rowed by their slaves and some indians, stated that they also found themselves in need, and their staff had frequently to be supported solely from the forest-palm, and even this they could not always find, so that they needed some support during the voyage of a month and a-half that still remained. Otherwise they would be obliged to..tum the canoes to land and form a settlement until they could meet with some luck or some forest tribe that would furnish Dhem with sOme of the supplies they then needed. These requisitions were substantiated by evidence. It was impossible that the indians should patiently endure the labour of rowing on one ration of flour a day. As a beginning of our troubles we found a difficulty in adopting some expedient which, without prejudice to our operations, should remove the present need and provide for the future during the considerable portion of the voyage stiU before us. Having occupied some time in deliberating upon this embarrassment, and it being seven o'clock in the morning without our having decided upon any course of action, there crossed over some ^lhds of indians, which issued from near the village that lay in sight, and they entered the canoe of the commandant, asseverating their peaceable and friendly intentions, and asking if~«ve were going to Mato Grosso. To this he did not definitely reply, and merely asked them if they had any maize-flour and fowls to barter for fish-hooks, needles, cured grapes, etc. They readily acquiesced to the pro- posal and set off to fetch the supplies mentioned. 319 Meanwhile, more canoes gathered together from the same village, and in one of them was an Indian servant of the mission- ary, a man well practised in! the Spanish language. He soon recognised the Minreos Jos^ Leme and his brother, "from having seen them on the occasion when they stopped at that village, in coming from Mato Grosso to'Par^. This Indian stated that without permission from the priest they could not sell anything of importance. In view of this, and the need in which we all were, the commandant resolved to send Jos4 Leme and his .brother to the village, to arrange for supplies for all ; and as the commandant could not le^ve the canoes of the escort, he invited Gonsalves da Fonseca to make a second journey, disguised, ' ordering the said Lemes to follow his instructions, and that they should not hold communication with any person unless all three were present. Having arranged this expedient they got into a small fishing-canoe, accompanied only by three confidential slaves, and started for the village, when the canoes had withdrawna good distance from it, in order to avoid the crowd of villagers, which was already great, but all to no purpose, as none of them had brought anything that would satisfy the requirements of the escort. The skiiF drew up at the port of the village, which is liable to floods, and there is in it such a strong current, that at any, moment it would have swamped the uhds of the villagers, if they had not taken particular care in landing. From this low beach, which extends about thirty fathoms inwards, the land began to rise for a distance of four hundred (fathoms) a little more or less, until reaching a plateau on which the village is situated. On arriving there, information was given that the missionary was going round visiting the sick, and in this exercise he was met in. one of the streets of that village. This missionary, a member of the religious order of Santo Ignacio, was called Gaspar do Prado, a native of Germany. He was apparently eighty years of age ; of a penitent aspect, but very pleasant-featured and lively. With demonstrations of genuine politeness and pleasure, he greeted the two Mineiros, assuring them that he was delighted at their return after such a long absence from their houses; that he wished to speak to 320 them more at leisure, but this could not be until after he had completed his round of visits to his patients. The Lemes offered to -wait, and he sent word by one of the four Indians that accompanied him, that the church should be opened for them to go and pray, and that afterwards he should take them to his room where he was accustomed to receive guests, and thus bidding farewell, the priest proceeded on the merciful task in which he employed himself every day after mass. On the west bank of the river Apord, there is a stream whereof mention has been made above. Here was located the village of S. Miguel, formed with the Indians of the tribe called Mor^, and it still existed there at the time when the inhabitants of Mato Grosso made the first journey by the Apor^ but in the year 1744 (they say), having suffered more ailments than usual, Father Gaspar determined to make a move from that place to the new site on the east margin facing the same island on the principal branch of the river, where the tribe referred to is at present located. Other tribes also of the neighbourhood, on the same right side, have been catechised, and live in the same viilage, making altogether the number of four thousand persons, all told. The village is built in an oblong shape, with the streets laid out in straight lines, with such regularity that the site being very level they form a square inclosure of large extent, a view of the church and neighbouring dwellings forming one of the sides, while on the others were the houses of th» Indians, all equal in height, and made of wood and niud, with thatched roofs. In the middle of the square rises a pillar formed of a ' trunk of more than fifty palms in height, surmounted by a cross, which, though all of unpretending construction, neverthe- less offers a pleasing appearance. The church, although proportioned in size to the number of persons required to take part in the service, yet so roughly was everything constructed that two naves were formed by means of eighteen upright wooden props which supported the main beam at the apex of the roof. The principal chapel is divided from the body of the church by an arch which renders the interior of the chapel extremely sombre, while the whole church is 321 greatly in want of light. Tlie main chapel contains an altar, at the entrance to which hung an image of S. Miguel, very roughly painted and devoid of expression, besides which the workman- ship is grotesque. There were no pictures, and the altar lacked that order and decency necessary to perform the sacred oblation of holy service in it. In two collateral a,ltars that are placed in the interior spaces formed by the arch in the direction of the epistle and evangel, there is equal disorder in the vestments, and going further, there is on th« side of the evangel an image of Christ crucified, which is enormous in size, but so rudely made that it seemed a grave impropriety that it should be exposed to the adoration of the faithful. Another objectionable feature noticeable in the main chapel was, that, instead of a __ lamp and oil, a rough earthenware pan was placed in a corner, in which burned a material unfit for a private house, so much the more for that place in which, in the holy tabernacle, presided the sacred Majesty of Christ. Finally, the whole of this church, without examining into details, was of such a gloomy appear- ance that it needed a strong effort of the mind in remembering that'it was dedicated to God, so as not to lose reverence or put a damper on one's devotion. After the chuch came the dwelling-house of the missionary divided into various apartments on the ground floor. These covered a large extent of ground. From the roof in front de- scended a portico supported by pillars covering a space, of thirteen palms in width, roughly ornamented between the pillars, and in this sort of verandah the priest used to receive his guests. The remaining face of the square already described was occupied by the engine-house for making sugar. This edifice was built of very handsome kinds of wood, and all the other ofiices were devoted to the service of that manufacture. The machinery was not then working, but they say that the Indians themselves are the operatives. The houses of these persons were far better built than those of the village of Santa Rosa, because, besides being larger, all were of wood and mud. The condition of the interior was of equal -poverty to that of the houses of the said village. The only thing which there was in excess, was the multitude of 322 individuals ; for each house was a species of slave-barracks, m which lived three or four families of dififerent tribes without mixing one with another. There is no general language for these indians as with those of Brazil : the members of each tribe act as if they were in their own forest, and the missionary has with unwearying labour to learn the language of whatever tribe he desires to catechise, in order, by this means, to instruct them in a Christian mode of life and political administration, to which they are admitted. In the course of time, some indians manage to vmderatand the Spanish language, but there are very few that make the adjectives agree with the substantives ; and those who cannot express their meaning fully in words supply the deficiency by gestures, by which, more than any other way, they make them- selves understood, and this is the more usual way whereby in the bush, for want of interpreters, they are accustomed to be catechised. The commerce of this village is in the same articles of which mention has already been made in speaking. of previous ones. This village has communication with tha;t of S. SinTao (also newly founded, which will be noticed in its place), in three hours' journey by land to the first cattle-farm, and a day and a half to the town. Between the two, wide plains invervene, in which numerous horned cattle and horses are pastured, and, besides this fertility, plantations are attended to which produce maize and rice with abundance. There is also a vast number of dom.estic birds that multiply so plentifully that there is a great quantity of all in the same village ; so that in several ways the people are better supplied and located than those of Santa Rosa. The people of, this village are, for the most part, well propor- tioned in height. There are tribes that, besides a good figure which nature has given them, are distinguished in colour from the rest of the Tapuias, because it inclines more to white than brown, or any gradation of sh^de down to black, which is the usual one in all these tracts. The dress is tlie same as that already described in this Diary, and only because it was a church-day (.ji4 we notice ori tlip women their species of finerjf, which coR- 333 si&ts in binding the tipoia, {the name which they give to the tunics already mentipned) with_ a belt, so that, a part of the clothing being gathered up, a small portion of the leg is left bare, on which there were interlaced several threads of white dried grapes, of the same sort that they wear on the bare parts- of the arms ; and this uncouth _ arrangement constitutes the whole of their adornment. The arms which they use are bow and arrow, and there were in this village about 800 Indians of those baptised who were capable of using them. As this population was composed of the Mor^ tribes referred to, which inhabited the lands that stretch- from the western margin towards the east, and after the new foundation other tribes were added from among those living on the east margin as far as the plateau of the Cordilheira Geral-, many families were accustomed to pine after the liberty of their forests, whither they returned, abandoning civil life, and plunged into the neighbouring forests in which they had left their relations. In order to get them back again, the priest organised some ex- peditions of veteran converts, who went in search of the deserters, and on that occasion they were going on a similar mission, being recommended to two coloured Portuguese from Mate Grosso who were obliged to take refuge in that village, where they were admitted to the protection of the priest and the benefit of this ministry on which they were engaged. The missionary finished his daily round to the sick, and having returned to his house he complimented anew his two guests, asking them to iell him what progress they had made ontheir voyage, and, to render more solemn the reply which he expected, he ordered an Indian to play upon the harp for the amusement of those gentlemen. The Tapuio began by playing an overture, and without a pause or alteration in the piece the entertain- ment was changed to a performance on the bones. Meanwhile the two Lemes were satisfying the question without speaking about the escort, and passing to trivial matters which took up time, and already the guests were on their feet to say good-bye, when with an unpoatrollable Impulse the Tapuio maintained the fury of the ori|iQi^l hamony which grefttly 4istvfrbe4the coRversa1;J9iJ. S24 On saying good-bye, they asked the priest for permission to negotiate with the indians of the village for some provisions, of which there was great need, in order to complete the voyage. To this request he did not offer the least objection ; and soon the priest sent to call the Cacique and the Alcaide, and dispatched them to inform the villagers that they could seE to those two gentlemen all the provisions that they required ; and his. benevolence went further, because he gave orders that they should quarter an ox, one portion of which was offered to the travellers, who, having thanked him for his attention, proceeded to the port of the Village to await the negotiation for the pro- visions they had requested. In a short time, the villagers ran together in large numbers to sell poultry, maize-flour, and fruit ; and, as money does not circulate among that people, bartering is adopted. This is based as follows : two needles for a hen, or, in the same way, two threads of white dried grapes, and so much more in pro- portion for this unheard-of commodity. One boat-load was sent off to the escort while another was being negotiated for, and thus in a few hours a sufficient supply was laid in which with prudence would last until we arrived at the large island, where there were inhabitants of Mato Grosso, from whose plantations we hoped to obtain supplies of Indian corn. As regards the flour belonging to these indians, it was not well prepared, and would not last all the rest of the voyage, and in order to buy the maize there in quantity it was necessary that the indians should bring it from their plantations, the transport of which occasi(jned loss of time, which in no case was suitable. The purchase, or barter, being concluded about fom- o'clock in the afternoon, the two Mineiros went to say good-bye to the missionary, and they thanked him for the permission he had granted to his indians from which resulted the aid which they had acquired, and after some general words of farewell, without the priest remarking or paying attention to the silence preserved by the poor creature who had 6om.e with the Lemes, they with- drew and made for the escort. They reached it after dark, at 325 an island distant from tlie village a little more than half a league, in an easterly direction.' , On the twenty-fifth day, very early in the morning, we began our journey with the course of east, in which, with that of south- east — with a slight change of twice to the south — we navigated during the whole day. As soon as we started from the island mentioned, we went along an almost straight reach. This took two hours, and soon there followed a bend, at the beginning- of which, on the right, a stream of pretty considerable volume discharges itself. Presently, after this, came a plain, which extended along the same margin of the river, and, having passed a small island, we also found a plain to the right, from which flows in a stream proceeding from a swamp in the neighbourhood. This plain lies between the village S. Miguel and that of S. Simao, which was still further up-stream. In the same plain, that extends inwards as far as the cordilheira, are pastured the cattle which supply these two villages ; these cattle having been moved to this district from the large stock there was at the first site of S. Miguel, where they are still preserved in large numbers. With the plains referred to in sight on both sides of the river, we continued our journey that day, and, after passing the mouth . of a very large swamp that there is on the left, there followed another small island on the right, opposite which is the mouth of the stream commonly called th9 Rio de S. Miguel, of which mention was made on the twenty-third day. In the dry season this mouth can only be navigated in a very small canoe, because there are sandbanks that embarrass and totally impede the navigation of. larger canoes. Opposite this bank, on the left, a very, wide lake empties itself, which was formed in the plain and affords navigation to -any canoe. On the right there are plantations belonging to the villagers of S. Miguel. There followed presently a pretty extensive reach, and, almost at the end of the bend which succeeded, we halted the canoes, after thirteen hours' journey, in which we went ten leagues. On the 26th we began our journey with the course of north- east, to complete the bend m the river where we had halted on the preceding night ; and, afterwards, with the course of east and south-east, which were the most frequent, we continued our 320 journey for the si^ace of three hours. The margins of the river were clothed with vegetation, and afterwards plains on botli sides disclosed themselves, continuing as far as those already mentioned on the previous days ; and the reason they were not always seen arises from the impediment of the trees that lined the greater part of the bank. Four mouths of lakes were seen to the left, the waters of which communicated with those of the river, and the lakes themselves communicate with one another, so that it seems as if there were a single bay capable of naviga- tion to any canoe whatever ; and so widely does the river expand towards both margins, that now it was not easy to find a small portion of land affording space enough to cook or eat, or even to sleep at night, and the members of our party were put to very great inconvenience by having to use the same canoe for both services. Already, at this place, sickness broke out vigorously among the Indians, because the change of water, as well as of air and provisions, all combined, produced such disorder in the weak constitutions of the Indians, that, at the same time, nearly all of them were attacked with a malady which, besides being un- pleasant and reducing them in a short time to a complete prostration of vital energy, is highly contagious among that unfortunate people. On this first alarm, we assisted with such remedies suitable for the attack as could be obtained from among our medical stores and the forests, which latter were more effective. With these and more UQurishing food the sick began to recover, and as they grew stronger the misfortune did not so greatly impress them, though the first outbreak had killed two, who, through their extreme weakness, were not able to resist it. On this same day, it being already dark, we halted the canoes at the left margin, where a swamp flowed in by a mouth of equal width and current to the main channel of the river ; and ( 111 this day, with eleven hours' travelling, we went nine leagues. On the 27th day we began our journey very early in the morning, following the part to the left ; and, after havino- navi- gated for an hour and a half, on our way, it being already broad (lav, we fovipci thi^t we Imd raistakeij our conr.se, am] that Wfts 327 not the river, because' the water and current were less, and it divided itself into several branches along the plain. We retraced the distance we had traversed, and proceeded to the right with the course of south, and afterwards to the east and south-east, which were the principal ones. On one of the branches, in which terminated the river that we navigated by mistake, is situated the village of S Simao, distant from that of S. Miguel a day-and-a-half's journey by land, and one down-stream in a canoe. It was founded in the year 1746 by Father Filippe, a Spaniard, whc catechised the Indians called Causinos, and afterwards some families of the Cagecerds and Mor^s, all of whom are inhabitants of the east bank of the Apord as far as the Serras Geraes. At that time, the missionary of this village was Father Ray- mundo Laines, a native of Navarre, and there were in it some three hundred able-bodied Indians. From this village to the locality called Corumbiara, the discovery of which will be mentioned further on, are twenty days' journey by land along the Apor^, and crossing the habitations of the tribes called Jaguarotas, Mequens, Guatards, and those already named, the Cagecer^s and Mords, and for the conversion of some of these, the said missionary, Raymundo Laines, had gone and was then personally labouring. / In the directions referred to, we continued our journey, sight- ing level land to the right, where flow in the mouths of large lakes; and, a'fter passing a small island, the river forms three branches : one, which was our right course, turned to the east, another to the south, which we could not examine to ascertain for certain whether it wa? the result of a large lake, and the third, which is smaller, inclines to the south. Navigating the last named, towards the left, for a quarter, of an hour, it was found that the river, on the same right margin, has two chan- nels opening towards the centre, and it was evident that after receiving the waters of the plain it found an exit by the two preceding mouths, forming a large island in the middle by the blending of these waters. At a little more than half a league's distance from the place jDei^tione4 vyp foiled, oi). the right, the best wtuatioB foy {i tawfl 328 that had been met with up to this place from Santa Rosa, be- cause it was a plain well adapted for cattle-farms. From it we passed to high firm land covered with leafy trees, affording not only a good retreat for the cattle on occasions of great floods, but also on it could be performed the labours necessary for the sustenance of the inhabitants, and to this advantage of soil must be added a remarkable freshness of the breezes, all rendering that district very pleasant. Opposite this plain, where it was already covered with forest, we halted the canoes after six hours' journey, during which wo went four leagues. On the 28th, and last day of February, we continued oiu- journey with the course of east-south-east, between a small island and the mainland on the right, which was a high bank, with good land for a town and for cultivation, and here the river narrows more than ordinarily, and soon, in the directicms of east and south-east, the river stretches into a small reach, in which there is an island of tolerable length lying close to the left bank. We continued by the right along the same high land, which terminated at the distance of more than half a league. There soon followed an island to the right, after which an- other was found to the left, where a stream flows in, the mouth of which extends from there for a quarter of a league, and higher up on the right is alarge lake which flows in with the course of south-west. Continuing our journey towards the east, at bends, which did not exceed a southerly direction, plains were dis- covered to the right, in front o.f which, at an island near the left margin, we halted the canoes, after six hours' journey, during which we went four leagues. These marches were made shorter on account of the Indians being very feeble through ill-health, and as the greater part of them gained strength by working at the oar, while, at the same time, others feU sick, it was necessary to moderate the work so as not to impede the navigation altogether, since we had to depend upon manual labour alone for its successful conclusion. At the beginning of March we continued our journej% with the course, of east, east-south-east, and south, and soon there 329 followed a turn to tlie east, which inclined a quarter to the north ; and thus there are bends one after another, in which the course Varies but little — that is, east-south-east, being the direc- tion which the river takes. At the end of four bends,, which we navigated with the courses referred to, we began to journey to the south-east along a very extensive reach, towards the end of which was found the locality called Das Pedras, because there terminates in that place a rocky headland which stretches from the interior to the river at its right bank. There it fo?:ms two bays, the promontories of Which terminate in huge boulders, among which is one having three faces, resting on a fourth as a base, thus forming a figure almost pyramidical, which, although a work executed by Nature itself, appeared, from the symmetry of its construction, to be a produc- tion of art. It was rendered a more picturesque object by the extensive foliage that grew at its apex, and, spreading all round, hung' pendent from the sides. Having passed these rocks, the whole of the succeeding portion of the margin was of high land, which sloped down, to the river. Here there was a reach that extended for half-an-hour. On the left bank an immense volume of water flowed in from a stream, the mouth of which was at a distance of two hours' journey from the rocky locality. On the west margin, almost opposite where the said stream flows in, we halted the canoes, at a place off which the inhabi- tants of Mato Grosso take up position when they come out fishing. After eight hours' travelling, we proceeded seven leagues. On the 2nd we did not travel in the morning, it being neces- sary to give the Indians some rest, and as, in the neighbourhood indicated, an attempt- was being made to obtain a supply of game, that place consisting of firm land continuing inwards, while, as for fishing, we had already given up all hope of such aid, because the river was completely full, and all the fish were removed to the swamps and lagoons. Accordingly, we set out on our journey about two o'clock in the afternoon, with but a small result from the hunting excur- sion which was made ; and, proceeding to the east, south-east. 330 and east-south-east, we passed with this course the mouth of the stream which on the -preceding day we had noticed on the left margin. There soon followed on the west a bank of high land well disposed for cultivation, and it finished where the river divides itself into two channels of equal size and volume of water ; one of them flows to the south-west, from the mouth of which were seen plains and some hills at a distance. We did not navigate this branch, because the current was very feeble compared to that which there was in the river running to the east. With this course we journeyed to the left. In the middle of the mouth there is a small island, after which fol- lowed a bend terminating with an island, at which we halted the canoes when it was already night, and in five hours' journey we went four leagues. Ou the 3rd day we began out journey at five o'clock in the morning round a bend in the river, which terminated towards the south, and from this we passed to the east, south-east, and east without there being anything on the margins worthy of noting, except we met with four smaU islands, and at the last we drew up the canoes after eight hours' journey, in which we went six leagues and a haK. On the 4th we continued the navigation with the course of east, and soon the river took the same direction, and thence round to the north. Without delay we returned towards the east, and passed to the south-east. Here the river widens, and a large swampy lake flows in ou the left margin, where an island began and another of considerable length succeeded, wiiich followed the windings of the river on the west margin. Nothing further of anj'' note occurred. We halted the canoes after six hours' journey, during which we traversed five leagues. On the .5th, we started on our way with the course of south- east and east, with which we passed two bends of the river, and only noticed that a lake flowed in on the west bank. After this came an island, and then a small reach, at the end of which a stream discharges itself, the waters of which unite with those of the preceding lake. The river present^ took a bend east- ward and thence to the nortli, and worked round in a semi- irclo to the S3ut li. S3l There extended to the left margin a very wide plain, ter- minating inland with the Cordilheira Geral, which was seen from this place running like the preceding ones with the course of the river. Here, near the level bank, were two islands, one after the other, following the directions of two bends in the river, which reached round from east to north and terminate towards the south, but the direction of the river was steadily east-south-east. In the same manner we navigated another bend, and stopped the canoes after seven hours' travelling, in the right margin, we proceeded along another small reach, terminating in a bend to the left which turned to the north and veered round by the right to the south. Presently, with the course of east, we found that the river was divided into two channel* by reason of an island which stands opposed to the current, so that three hours' continued navigation was necessary to pass it. This island follows the bend of the river close along the mainland on the left. There soon followed two more channels of the river, without anything note- worthy on the margins, and we halted the canoes on the right .after ten hours' journey, in which-eight leagues were traversed. On the 18th we continued our journey, without a change of course or anything notable on either margin, until arriving at a very extensive reach in the direction of south-east and south, in the middle of which, on the right, we halted the canoes, after eleven hours' journey, in which we advanced eight leagues. On the ,l9th we began, our journey with the course of south- east and east, until passing the reach and two islands, one after the other, the first lying along the left margin and the second to the right, on the low bank of which flows in the river called Paragau, which, they say, has its sources in the province of Chiquitos — domesticated Indians missioned by the Spaniards, religious members of Santa Ignacio, whereof individual mention will be made in the proper place. The river Paragau appears with a mouth seemingly three hundred fathoms wide. It has its direction to the south through level ground, and there is nothing else worthy of notice in conuexioii with this river. A small island lies .at its mouth, having passed which, the Apor already making its accustomed deflections, we found, on the 340 more concave part of the first, that a lake of considerable size flows in on the right, and, on the same side, at the end of the bend, a stream divided into two channels of greater width than the river itself. Continuing with the ordinary courses, without liaving anything more noteworthy to record than that we. dis- covered on the right the Campina Geral (general plain), we halted the canoes, after eleven hours' journey, in which we went eight leagues. It was not possible yet, at this height, to use great force in rowing, because the Indians destined for this work still suffered from the previous complaint, with which became complicated another that came upon them, and in general upon all, namely, intermittent fever — simple, double, and quartain — so difficult of expulsion in the debilitated state of that people, that, although with some only emetic remedies would avail, while with others it was necessary to adopt hark (quina), none of them gained their health permanently ; because after a short rest they would again relapse into a feeble condition, resulting more from the disordered constitution, produced by the patients who would not abstain from what was injurious to them, than by the malignity of the attack, which easily yielded to the repetition of the medi- cines referred to even in cases of relapse. The gi'eatest consternation which resulted from this fresh attack of diseases was from the want of provisions, and most lamentably that of bread, on sharing out which for the term of the voyage still remaining it was necessary to give half a ration even to those who needed it, although the want of this article was genera], all being reduced to a state of debility. If, by chance, we managed to secure, by hunting, a tapir or a bird called mutum, it was necessary to take great care in the distri- bution of these pleasant viands, in order to keep the sick and convalescent from them, because they are infallible, in however small a portion, to bring on a relapse. In addition to the calamity of illness must be added, on the 18th day, an un- fortunate accident whieh was neariy fatal to an Indian sergeant- major of the village of Parijo de Cameta, the most esteemed and bravest man that accompanied the escort. He was following up, in the forest, a small animal, a little larger than a rabbit, 341 called " paca." It had run to earth in a part where he found it necessary to insert his arm into the hole to secure the prey This he did at the cost of a bite on the I'ight thumb from a most venomous snake called "surucucli." This species is frequently found in company with the " paca," so that from the frequent companionship of those two animals arises a fable that exists among the Tapuias, that the " pacas " proceed from those snakes. The bite is fatal to every kind of animal, and it was veiy affect- ing to see that Indian bear it with so much patience and forti- tude. Though the bitten part was quickly cut out and cauterised with fire, so as not to allow the poison to commuuicate itself through the blood, these prompt precautions were not sufficient ^ — nor were some antidotes that were applied — to revive the patient, who, after three hours of anxious suffering, lostihis strength and power of speech, and entered into the. agonies of death. At such a terrible symptom, for want of Venetian theriac Ave tried the beak of the Acauan, and Unicornio de Inhuma, reducing them to powder, which were mixed with water, and got him to swallow with great difficulty ; but immediately this cordial began to circulate, the lethargy disappeared and the agony was lulled. It became apparent to the Indian that he should relieve himself of the malignant oppression which weighed on his spirits and lie on his stomach. No new accident resulted from repeating the wonderful remedy which checked the -first attack of the poison. The wound being healed, by taking every care, in a little more than ten days he was com- pletely restored. What greatly aided in his cure was the tem- perament of this Indian, who resigned himself obediently to a very austere diet to which he was subjected during the first five days of his course. It appeared suitable to give here an account of this success for the credit of the marvellous antidote, which Providence con- ferred by Nature on those two birds, which are numerous (principally Inhumas) among the lakes on our present route. The salutary effect produced on this occasion pervades the whole frame of these two animals, so that any bone, or part of the flesh impregnated with myrrh, belonging to them has equal efficacy 342 in destroying the malignity of a body infected with poison, whether proceeding from the bite of a cobra, as in the case related, or apparent " propinagao," as often happened. On the 20th day, we continued our journey with the course of south and south-east, the river making a swerve to the north, and soon doubling round to the right we found, towards the south-east, after leaving the east side, a very wide plain terminating in the Serrania Geral, which was here of very great elevation. With the same preceding courses we doubled three wide bends which terminated in a small reach, and the latter in a very spacious bay, where the river divided itself into three channels by reason of two islands which stood opposed to the current. Having passed these, we were navigating round a bend, in which, at its termination to the south-east, we saw a plain on the right traversed by a stream of considerable volume, and there soon followed a reach to the east, in the middle of which we halted the canoes, after eight hours' journey, in which we went six leagues. In this place it was necessary to give a rest to the party on the 21st day ; andj although their debility required a long ' delay, it was not possible to grant that benefit, because it was necessary to push forward,, in consequence of the provisions, which diminished every day ; and, in that alarmed state, any detention would have been prejudicial, because it would not stop the great" amount of sickness, and, as some were free from these ailments but could not resist the horrors of famine, all would fall victims to extreme misery, in a country destitute of any human aid. Accordingly, On the 22nd we continued our journey without a change of course, because in tKe direction of east-south-east the river made its customary turns from north to south, and, without having anything memorable to notice on either margin, we halted the" canoes after seven hours' journey, in which we went four leagues. On the 23rd we doubled two bends in the river with the usual courses, and entered a very extensive reach to the east, which- terminates where a lagoon discharges itself on the rio-ht maroin Without having observed anything noteworthy, we halted the canoes after ten hours' journey, in which we went eight leagues 843 On the aith, continuing our journey to the east and south- east, passed some turns, we found, on the right, a high bank of red earth, covered with a virgin growth of lofty trees of thick foliage; and, having passed this locality, near the end of a bend, having a southerly direction, a stream of considerable volume flows in on the left margin, and soon there followed an island contiguous to the bank, sweeping round with the river itself to the east. With this course we saw a spacious estuary formed by an extensive inundation of the low land on the left margin. After passing this locality, and two mor^ turns of the river, with- out anything ^.vorthy of recollection, we halted tlie canoes after eleven hours' navigation, in which we went eight leagues and a half, On the 2oth, we journeyed without a change of course ; and, the river continuing with its accustomed bends, there was nothing further to notice than a continuation of inundated land on both margins, without the slightest height of land appearing at which to halt the canoes, it being necessary, on account of the -luggage to accommodatd'ourselves in a narrow space in the canoes, the healthy mixed up with the sick. This, of all the calamities that they -endured, was not the least, for minds oppressed like theirs ; because the navigation was on a river which the season had converted into a sea — without fish — which expanded, as if by a similar freak of nature, among immense trees without fruit of any kind, so that the three procreative elements combined towards the sterility of that region, for nothing winged through the air, unless occasionally a number of macaws, emitting hoarse cries, as if, perhaps, they were complaining of not finding the slightest morsel wherewith to appease their hunger. This fact seriously affected some of the patients who were convalescent, because the stock of provisions was very low, and we only looked to obtaining an occasional macaw or parrot,* to extricate us from that most lamentable position. On the 26th, we proceeded with the courses already men- tioned, without anything further worthy of note, except that after eight hours' journey we found level land on the right, off which we halted, having traversed five leagues that dfty. On the 27th, we began, with some effort, to proceed with the 344 courses of east and south-east, in order .to arrive at the cele- brated locality of Corumbijara. Accordingly, at nine o'clock in the morning, we had the fortuitous pleasure of seeing a hill in which terminates the range that to the west has its origin parallel to the plains of Mato Grosso, and accompanies the Apord as far as this place, when it inclines westward. Hence it continues for a distance of l^hree days' journey, where it attains, its greatest elevation. • The canoes having arrived at the place where the Apore laves with its waters the foot of the lofty mountain that stands at an angle in the direction of that range, we saw, in the part opposite, the stream whereof mention has been ma^e on the 16th day in this Diary, when we treated of the river Cavalleii'o ; and as this place was remarkable for the opportunities it afforded for the discovery of gold from that spot as far as the headwaters of the Cavalleiro, it will be necessary to give here an individual notice of this success, which was not without important consequences. In the year 1741, the number of workmen in the mines of Mato Grosso being greatly reduced, these mines having fallen off from the great wealth they showed during the first few years, after their discovery, several of these workmen from the ijiines, Avho were experienced miners, resolving among themselves to make further explorations in those extensive regions, undertook the task of subduing the wild inhabitants in order to obtain from them some infi^rmation as to the discovery «f gold, so that these adventurers might improve their fortunes, which had diminished through the decadence in the mines of Mato Grosso. Havjng taken the measures adapted to the execution of this idea, fifty' men banded themselves together, among whom were fifteen whites, PortugXiese, and Paulistas, appointing as their director or chief, Antonio de Almeida e Moraes, as he had had great experience in similar exploits. In the year referred to they pushed forward down the Apore ; and these were the first persons who ventured to unfold to the inhabitants the secret in whicli the navigation was enveloped. * These two Ibii'cls, as well as one called ciijuW, supply, in those drseit tracts tho want of f owls for the sick. 345 After passing the hill-range mentioned, leaving the canoes in a convenient place, they plunged into the forest which extends westward, so impenetrable, by reason of the terrible swamps, that it, was with great difiSculty they succeeded in wading them breast-deep in water, and finding their canoes, in which, crossing the river towards the east, they entered the stream above mentioned, with the course of south-east, and after a few days' journey they met with the opposition ofthe tribe called Guaraiu- ' fa, who were of such a warlike disposition, that instead of wait- ing to be surprised by the miners, they took the initiative by attacking the baggage. In this action, the allies exerting all their force, put the indians to flight, taking prisoners those who were not killed in the conflict. Elated by this victory, they, penetrated further inland, with- out any impediment, where, in various streams or affluents which flow into the river Cavalleiro, they found veins of gold, the trace of which they were not able to follow up in conse- quence of the immense multitude of barbarians who, 'with the object of disputing the ground with them, placed themselves in a position to resist the adventurers, so the latter returned to Mato Grosso to give an account of what had happened to the guarda-inor (superintendent), who was at that time in charge of the mines of Salvador de Espinha Sylva. The samples of gold having been received and the information divulged of the fresh discovery in those districts, already, in the year 1743, some inhabitants assembled at the spot, including the guarda-mor himself, who determined to go personally to verify the data, in compliance with the duties of his office. They .eagerly. sought the large brook or stream of Corumbijara, and penetrated as far as the affluents alluded to. Among these they formed their settlement, where, having worked for three months at excavating, there only appeared veins of gold similar to the first specimens. For this task Tristao da Cunha Gago was em- ployed as miner, with other experienced persons, who, after having carefully examined the land, and not finding any further - trace than that indicated (which was not reckoned), they con- cluded that the hollow portion of earth there did not produce that metal, but they were unanimously of opinion that the gold 346 had been washed down by the lains from tke Cordilheira Geral ■where it had its origin to the westward. Moreover, in order to follow up the trace as. far as they desired, it was necessary either to subdue or pacify the tribes of wild indians that intervened between them and the hills, for which they were *not properly preparfed, because the tribes were various, very numerous and warlike. The guarda-mor, therefore, adopted the expedient to withdraw the party, together with other .private individuals who accompanied it. , However, Antonio de .Almeida and Tristao da Cunha did not retire. They were the first discoverers who refrained from attending to their plantations, and various other persons fol- lowed their example ; so that after more than eight months from the appropriation of those districts they could neither arrive at what they supposed to be the source of the gold, nor had they any greater result for their labour than a loss of time and of many slaves who died or fled. After this last pro6f or undeception all resolved to abandon Corumbijara, some returning to Mato Grosso, and others, with the two discoverers, seeking the land to the north, crossing the headwafos of the river Cavalleiro, and always finding good ormations of gold, even near the hill ranges which shelter the villages of S. Simao and S. Miguel. After subduing the tribe of the Ami6s, which they entirely routed, their progress was opposed by indians called Guazait^s, that in great numbers inhabit the plains which extend as far as the hills. Being so numerous, they forced the adventurers to recede by the way they had takqn. They issued by the said Cavalleiro in new uhds which they made, and in them they returned to Mato Grosso only having gained some prizes captured from the tribe Ami6s. Up to that time no entry whatever was made by this part of the Corumbijara, because it was necessary to have a troop of great force to conquer the multitude of tribes inhabiting that tract. The nations best known and most formidable are the Mem- bar^s and the Guiuias, their neighbours. They are not wild, of a docile temperament, and well disposed to be civilised. " Next follow the Guazaites, who, although they are more daring, 347 nevertkeless have a capacity for being catechised. The Abab^s aad Vrupuiid,s, devourers of human flesh, are somewhat rebelHous to negotiate peaceably with. The Guatards, Maurt^s, Taquaras, and Causinos are of the most facile disposition to be converted. Many of them have been brought into the villages of S. Miguel and S. Simao. From the last-named to the site of the Gorum- bijara there are, it is said, eleven days' journey by land. That which is written regarding these discoveries' was heard from the two discovSrers, Antonio de Almeida, Tristao da Cunha, and also Kodrigo Francisco, a man of thorough reliability, who was an excavator, with his slaves, up to the last desertion. The escort continued on its journey, with the courses of east and south-east, within sight of the hill -range on the right, so close to the river that there was an opportunity of examining with the eye their rugged bulk. Its composition is for the most part of bare rock. In some parts, where there are fissvires, very crystalline water is precipitated from the summit of those heights. Through the continuous moisture some verdure is pro- duced, which renders the site of those clear-descending volumes a very agreeable one. At the foot of one of these mountains we drew up the canoes, having, in eleven hours, gone six leagues. By this time the commissariat of the escort already became so low that, even observing the strictest economy, it was not pos- sible to reach the first settlements of the swamps ; and as it was practicable to go to these iu a light canoe in order to negotiate for some aid in six days going and coming, we took the expe- dient of despatching, that same night, a commissary to treat with regard to this matter, with orders to return to the squadron as soon as possible, which was intended to continue on its way, though somewhat, slowly on account- of the convalescents being extremely weak. On the 28th day, we proceeded with our journey, without a change of courses, in an almost continuous reach, hills being visible towards the west. One of these we noticed to be less in height than the others, having on its summit, as if a termination of its crags, a rock of such union and very fine symmetry that they formed a perspective as of little towers, like those which arti- ficers erect as belfries ; and from this circumstance of nature it 348 resulted that the first travellers on this river called the whole range the " Hills of the Towers." Having passed this place, the river makes a li ttle turn, and in it we halted the canoes, after nine hours' journey in which we went five leagues. On the 29th, the day of the glorious resurrection of Christ, our Lord, after celebrating the bloodless sacrifice of mass, we pro- ceeded on our journey in a continuous reach, having the sam« hills on the right, until eight o'clock in the morning, when they were lost to view by turning further inland, and soon the river took its direction to the customary course of east-south-east in bends, like those already often mentioned, from north to south, the land on both margins being inundated at high water, without discovering on the bank the slightest portion of it capable of halting at, although we searched until eight o'clock at night, so that we had to rest with the great inconvenience of no ot^er place than the canoes. In twelve hours' journey we went seven leagues. On the 30th, we journeyed round the usual turns of the river, without a change of course or of margin, for the great space of five hours' journey, until on the left side we found that a large lake discharged itself, after which presently succeeded another estuary of water of the same kind, which the pilots said was of the preceding lake itself. On the right margin we dis- covered the mouth of a swamp, after which followed a plain on the right, and soon on the left astream,past which we navigated, and found that the plain continued on the right, high and free from inundations, at the end- of which, on the opposite margin; we found the mouth of the stream mentioned, in front of which we stopped,having in eleven bouts' journey travelled five leagues. On the 31st, we contiiuted on our way, with the course of east and south-east, with the same bends of the river, in which inter- vened some small stretches of swamp on both margins, finishing in two large lakes, the mouths of which opened parallel to. both sides. Having passed this place, we saw on the right^ the Hills of the Towers (Senas das Ton-es) at no great distance inland ; and Avithout there being anything further worthy of recollection, we halted the escort after ten hours' journey, in which we went four leagues and a-half, 349 On the 1st of the month of April we continued our journey without alteration of the preceding courses, with the customary turns, and in one which reached towards the north and ended to the south, we found a plain on the left which /terminated mland with the Cordilheira Geral, which was seen following the usual direction. Before finishing the turn mentioned there flows in on the left margin a large body of water, part of the vast quantity that collects over the plain and descended to that' spot. Thus this stream originates from the flood of the rains, which in various channels descend from' the mountains to disperse themselves over those wide plains. After this locality followed two reaches, the first to the south, the second to the south-east, and after tlJese the accustomary bends. Without there being anything to note, we halted on that day in front of a hank of high land that there-was on the right margin. With twelve hours' journey we went seven leagues. On the 2nd, navigating without a change of the ordinary courses, wb met an extensive reach to the east, where the river being divided into two channels forms a long island, the Serras das Torres being seen on the right, from which descends a river called the Rio Verde, the direction of which is from west to east. It is not large and has several cachoeiras. It discharges itself on the right margin into the channel the Apord forms between the hills and the island referred to. There is no other note- worthy point about this Rio Verde. At a slight distance frbm this, 'bhe island terminates the reach, and we doubled round the customary bends. Raving passed six, we found on the right a mouth equal in width to the main river, and presently, further on, another almost similar, both communicating inland with a very extensive swamp. We proceeded along a small reach;, at the end of which, on the left, there was an outlet resulting from, the preceding swamps, and there followed some high land on the bank which was already cultivated by the fishermen of Mato Grosso. From this place we saw the Serras da,s Torres, and continued our journey without further novelty, halting the squadron alter ten hours' journey, in which we accomplished six leagues. On the 8rd, we proceeded with the customary courses along 350 two reaches, after which followed five turns in the bank, which was inundatM on both margins, with so many inlets, that it was with great difficulty we could adhere to the main channel of the river, added to which there were continuous plantations of rice and other grains, which, interwoven one with the' other, on the surface of the water, leave the passage very^ narrow for naviga- tion. The rice of which mention is here made abounds not only in the main channel of the river, but among the lagoons and swamps. It is a spontaneous production of nature, and, after the season, supplies abundant provision for various birds, because there is no inhabitant to take the advantage of gathering it, for which no ^more labour is necessary thaa to go in little canoes among the plains, when the slightest movement shakes the grain out of the ears, so that in a short time this species of cereal might be enjoyed long and frequently, but this permission was entirely useless to the need of the escort, as it poured forth at a season unsuitable for taking advantage of it. We continued our journey by various bends and reaches, having on both margins many estuaries resulting from the immense volumes of water which, at the flood, reduce the low lands to wide and tranquil oceans. At the margin of this kind of sea, as we could not discover laud, we made a halt after twelve hours' journey, in which we traversed seven leagues. On the 4th of the month we continued our journey along a reach to the east which terminated in a bend to the right, finishing to the south-south-west. Presently, there followed the usual courses, without the inundation permitting either margin to be seen by reason of the water, and so extensive and con- tinuoua are the _ estuaries, that it is difficult to perceive the proper route unless care be used ; and in this, and other similar places which have been indicated, the escort would have lost its way but for the benefit of the experienced guide whose skill did not fail him in that labyrinth of waters. From this difficulty we were extricated by a miracle of the most beneficent Pro- vidence, for we might be able to get through without any fatal catastrophe, notwithstanding the want of provisions expe- rienced in thosii most sterile regions, abundant only in water and wild forest. 351 On this day, in eight hours' joul-ney, we went four leagues. ' On the 5th day we travelled rather slowly, without change of course until eleven o'clock in the day, when we halted, having found iirm land on the right. Here we found it necessary to cut down some wild palms, so that those who were not sick might derive from the heart— which is of a superior quality— of these trees sustenance for that day, and lay by for another, because there was not a quart of maize-grain left, without any other food for some of the needy sick. It was on thiii day that the escort was in the greatest consternation of want, not having any other resource than the palm referred to, because the expected aid had not arrived. On this day, of five hours' journey, we went only two leagues. On the Gth day, on which the church celebrates the services of Our Lady the Virgin, we began our journey while it was still very early, when, at the break of day, we met with the little canoe which had gone to negotiate for aid, the sight of which resulted in general rejoicing. In fact, what it brought consisted of maize, rice, beans, and some fruit. A distribution was made so as to compensate for the past privation, and we halted for an hour, so that the debilitated might take some refreshment. Presently, we continued on our way without change of course, the greater part of the banks being swampy land, and halted when it was already night, after ten hours' journey, in which we went, eight leagues. On the 7th, with more vigorous effort, we continued our journey, without any change in the courses or bends of the river, in which we found a stream called Capirari flowing in on the right, the entrance of which we ascertained to be to the west, and soon it t\ims to the south-west. It is about forty fathoms wide at the mouth, but it soon assumes a grea,ter width. It« source is in the Terras das Torres. Its waters are crystal- line, and it is frequented by fishermen from Mato Grosse, who state that there are some cachoeiras in it, but they do not give any further information that could render it memorable. Having passed the mouth of this stream, we continued our journey, foUowino- the bends of the river, which were more frequently of smaller size than the preceding, but always with the same 352 direction and courses. The rice-fields continued along the margins, and all the part to the left was swampy. The river, at these parts, has some three hundred fathoms of width at most. After twelve hours' journey, we accomplished, on this day, nine leagues. On the 8th, we began our journey very early in the morning, with the object of arriving while it was still morning at the first settlements called Pantanaes (swamps) ; and, in fact, at eight o'clock in the day we found the mouth of a swamp on the left, entering which is a port called Bello, where a transport might be effected in the dry weather to the plain of Mato Grosso, but at that time it was impracticable, as the waters had inundated the whole plain. ■ Having passed this place, there followed three bends of the river, and soon a reach, in which on the right, on high land, are the first settlements. We passed within sight of thB first, which is inhabited by a mulatto, and in the foUowing one, at a quarter of a league's distance, is the dwelling of one Joaquim Ferreira Chaves, who fraternised with the first navigators who proceeded to Para, where being engaged as a soldier he deserted from Mato Grosso, making his journey by Goiazes, whence he passed to Cuiaba, and from this town to his dwelling. In this situation from which was dispatched to the escort the aid mentioned, it was necessary to halt the canoes on this day, after four hours' journey, in which three leagues were traversed. Here ' we rested the remainder of this day and also the whole of the following. The land on which these settlements are situated is high, free from inundation even in the very high floods. It ^ is level, and produces very fine groves, which continue as far as the Serras das Torres that lie to the westward. These settle- ments produce the vegetables of the country in abundance, such as maize, and also rice of good quality, which in size of grain and flavour is not inferior to that of Venice ; but that which is gathered from the swamps produced by Nature, without cultiva- tion, is not good enough to be desirable, and it is only through necessity that its use is adopted. All these habitations among the swamps are favoured with a more temperate climate than the plain, in which there are 35S variations, whereof mention will be made in its place, ai^d the inhabitants of those settlements are less afflicted with jljness, and pass their lives in greater plenty than those of the plain, who are often helped from those swamps. On the 10th day, about one o'clock p.m., we proceeded on our journey, with the course of east-south-east, and sometimes to the south, round sniall bends, one after the other. There followed two more settlements on the same continent as the first, but the whole of the opposite bank was swampy, from which proceeded some outlets communicating with the river, passing along which we entered, when it was already close on nightfall, a branch of the swamp in search of a settlement on which resided Tristao da Cunha Gago, whence there is also a road to Mato Grosso, but those who know the neighbourhood afifirm that it is all inundated in such a manner that not even the itihabitants of the locality could .issue into the country to hunt. The escort passed the night in the same place, having in five hours' journey accomplished'three leagues. All these settlements have their labour supplied by some Tapuois who are attached to these districts, or who work in the manner stated in this Diary, and only the plantation of Joaquim Ferreira Chaves was cultivated by slaves from Guinea. On the ] 1th we determined to continue our voyage, and to enter the river Sarare, and to seek the halting-place in it called Pescaria (fish-market), that being the place of embarking and landing for persons proceeding to or from Mato Grosso, and even from the swamp, which was very extensive, and d^ep enough for a permanent lake. We continued our journey by the Apor4 with the customary courses, in the same direction of east-south- east, noting always that on both margins there were several estuaries of water, that left it doubtful which of those on the left was that of the Sarard, and as its mouth is on the swampy margin, we passed the canoes to the part opposite, in the main channel gf the river, where we stopped at a margin with good elevation. About two o'clock in the afternoon we entered the Sarard, with the course of east-south-east, and soon passed to the east, and continued thus until five o'clock in the afternoon, when we 354 made a halt. The mouth of the Sarare was two hundred fathoms wide, and inside it floods more, especially where there are islands, with which it is studded. The mafgins are almost all of swampy lands. At times of high water there grows along the margins, on the surface of the water, a species of plant called the au'api, with large thick leaves, which ramify and form a mass so closely woven that in parts, when crossing the river, it is necessary, for large distances, to clear away these impediments by force of large knives and machetes (a kind of cutlass) so as to open up a road for canoes of greater draught than those used for fishing. Sometimes the growth of this impediment assumes such proportions that the only passengers frequenting that river were fishermen, who navigate without the necessity of bursting through that network of such tenacity that it costs great labour to break through. To this must be added many logs that fall from the margin and drift across the river. It is sometimes necessary to chop these through in order to continue one's journey. Overcoming these difficulties, we navigated, on the 12th and 13th days, until, on the 14th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the squadron rested at the port Pescaria, having completed nine months' voyage from Para, where we had begun our journey on the 14th of July of the previous year. On the same day the sergeant-major of the escort intimated, by letter, to the prefect {Juiz Ordinario) of Mato Grosso, Antonio da Sylveira Fagundes Borges, that out of service to his Majesty, he should provide quarters at the settlement of Matriz for the officials of the said escort, and that he was also awaiting in that port some saddle-horses and commissariat, as soon as possible, for the transport of those officials. With thorough punctuality, the horses arrived on the loth day, and, on the 16th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we began our journey by wading through a forest,-and soon a wide swamp, formed by a flooded plain, with some mounds, at the end of which the said prefect (Juiz), accompanied by the Vicar of Matriz and other persons of distinction, were waiting for their guests, whom they saluted with the greatest courtesy, and accompanied them along the two leagues' level travelling which 355 remained, as far as the slope of the hill that has an elevation of half a league, and arriving at the settlement of S. Francisco Xavier, all sought the central church, which is under the tute- lage of that saint, where, having rendered to God the thanks due for the benefit of delivering that escort from so great an amount of dangers, the officials withdrew, each one , to the quarters which were destined for him.