(Qarnell Uniuecoity SItbcarg 
 
 attiani. S^rtn fork 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 COLLECTION 
 
 CHINA AND THE CHINESE 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 
 CLASS OF 1876 
 
 1918 
 
Cornell University Library 
 CT 275.T76 
 
 My life In many states and in foreign la 
 
 3 1924 022 999 811 
 
The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924022999811 
 
(^^^^^T^^^"^""-*-^^ 
 
 "-/^iy 
 
 MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 AND IN FOREIGN LANDS 
 
George Francis Train. 
 
 Prom a recent photograph. 
 
My Life in Many States 
 and in Foreign Lands 
 
 DICTA TED 
 IN Mr SEFENTY-FOURTH YEAR 
 
 BY 
 GEORGE FRANCIS TRAIN 
 
 ILLUSTRA TED 
 
 LONDON 
 
 WILLIAM HEINEMANN 
 1902 
 
"^^'^^T 
 
 Copyright, 1903 
 By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 
 
 PuhlisTied Nmjember, 1902 
 
 PRINTED AT THH APPLHTON PRESS 
 NEW YORK, U. S. a. 
 
TO THE CHILDREN 
 
 AND TO THE CHILDEEN'S CHILDEEN 
 IN THIS AND IN ALL LANDS 
 
 WHO LOVE AND BELIEVE IN ME 
 
 BECAUSE THEY KNOW 
 I LOVE AND BELIEVE IN THEM 
 
PREFACE 
 
 I HAVE been silent for thirty years. During 
 that long period I have taken little part in the 
 public life of the world, have written nothing be- 
 yond occasional letters and newspaper articles, and 
 have conversed with few persons, except children 
 in parks and streets. I have found children always 
 sympathetic and appreciative. For this reason I 
 have readily entered into their play and their more 
 serious moods ; and for this reason, also, have dedi- 
 cated this book to them and to their children. 
 
 For many years I have been a silent recluse, 
 remote from the world in my little corner in the 
 Mills Hotel, thinking and waiting patiently. That 
 I break this silence now, after so many years, is 
 due to the suggestion of a friend who has told me 
 that the world of to-day, as well as the world of to- 
 morrow, will be interested in reading my story. I 
 am assured that many of the things I have accom- 
 plished will endure as a memorial of me, and that 
 I ought to give some account of them and of 
 myself. 
 
 vii 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 And so I have tried to compress a story of my 
 life into this book. With modesty, I may say that 
 the whole story could not be told in a single 
 volmne. I have tried not to be prolix, keeping in 
 mind while preparing this record of events, " all of 
 which I saw, and part of which I was," that there 
 is a limit to the patience of readers. 
 
 I beg my readers to remember that this book 
 was spoken, not written, by me. It is my own 
 life-story that I have related. It may not, in 
 every part, agree with the recollections of oth- 
 ers; but I am sure that it is as accurate in state- 
 ment as it is blameless in purpose. If I should 
 fail at any point, this will be due to some waver- 
 ing of memory, and not to intention. Thanks to 
 my early Methodist training, I have never know- 
 ingly told a lie ; and I shall not begin at this time 
 of hfe. 
 
 While I may undertake other volumes that will 
 present another side of me — my views and opinions 
 of men and things — that which stands here re- 
 corded is the story of my life. It has been dictated 
 in the mornings of July and August of the past 
 summer, one or two hours being given to it during 
 two or three days of each week. Altogether, the 
 time consumed in the dictation makes a total of 
 thirty-five hours. Before I began the dictation, I 
 wrote out hastily a brief sketch, or mere epitome, 
 of my history, so that I might have before my mind 
 a guide that would prevent me from wandering too 
 
 viii 
 
PREFACE 
 
 far afield or that might save me from tediousness. 
 I give it here, as a foretaste of the book. I have 
 called it "My Autobiography boiled down— 400 
 Pages in 200 Words.'? 
 
 " Born 3-24-'29. Orphaned New Orleans, '33. 
 (Father, mother, and three sisters— yellow fever.) 
 Came North alone, four years old, to grandmother, 
 Waltham, Mass. Supported self since babyhood. 
 Farmer till 14. Grocer-boy, Cambridgeport, two 
 years. Shipping-clerk, 16. Manager, 18. Partner, 
 Train & Co., 20 (income, $10,000). Boston, 22 
 ($15,000). 
 
 "EstabHshed G. F. T. & Co., Melbourne, 
 Australia, '53. Agent, Barings, Duncan & Sher- 
 man, White Star Line (income, $95,000). Started 
 40 clippers to California, '49. Flying Cloud, Sov- 
 ereign of the Seas, Staffordshire. Built A. & G. 
 W. R. R., connecting Erie with Ohio and Missis- 
 sippi, 400 miles. 
 
 " Pioneered first street-railway, Europe, Amer- 
 ica, Australia. (England : Birkenhead, Darlington, 
 Staffordshire, London, '60.) Built first Pacific 
 Railway (U. P.), '62-'69, through first Trust, 
 Credit Mobilier. Owned five thousand lots, Omaha, 
 worth $30,000,000. (Been in fifteen jails without 
 a crime.) 
 
 " Train Villa, built at Newport, '68. Daugh- 
 ter's house, 156 Madison Avenue, '60. Organized 
 French Commune, Marseilles, Ligue du Midi, Octo- 
 ber, '70, while on return trip around the world in 
 
 IX 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 eighty days. Jules Verne, two years later, wrote 
 fiction of my fact. 
 
 " Made independent race for Presidency against 
 Grant and Greeley, '71-72. Cornered lawyers, 
 doctors, clericals, by quoting three columns of 
 Bible to release WoodhuU-Claflin from jail, '72. 
 Now lunatic by law, through six courts. 
 
 " Now living in Mills Palace, $3 against $2,000 
 a week, at Train Villa. (Daughter always has 
 room for me in coimtry.) Played Carnegie forty 
 years ahead. Three generations living off CrMit 
 Mobilier. Author dozen books out of print {vide 
 Who's Who, AUibone, Appletons' Cyclopaedia). 
 
 "Four times around the world. First, two 
 years. Second, eighty days, '70. Third, sixty- 
 seven and a half days, '90. Fourth, sixty days, 
 shortest record, '92. Through psychic telepathy, 
 am doubling age. Seventy-four years young." 
 
 It may be a matter of surprise to some readers 
 that I should have accomplished so much at the 
 early age when so many of my most important en- 
 terprises were accomplished. It should be re- 
 membered, however, that I began young. I was a 
 mature man at an age when most boys are still 
 tied to their mothers' apron strings. I had to 
 begin to take care of myself in very tender years. 
 I suppose my experiences in New Orleans, on 
 the old farm in Massachusetts, in the grocery 
 store in Boston, and in the shipping house of 
 Enoch Train and Company, matured and hardened 
 
PEEFACE 
 
 me before my time. I was never much of a boy. I 
 seem to have missed that portion of my youth. I 
 was obliged to look out for myself very early, and 
 was soon fighting hard in the fierce battle of com- 
 petition, where the weak are so often lost. 
 
 It may be worth while to present here some im- 
 portant evidence of the confidence that was re- 
 posed in me by experienced men, when, as a mere 
 youth, I was imdertaking vast enterprises that 
 might have made older men hesitate. When I was 
 about to leave Boston in '53 for business in Aus- 
 tralia, and organized the house of Caldwell, Train 
 and Company, I was authorized by the following 
 weU-established houses of this and other countries 
 to use them as references, and did so on our firm 
 circulars: John M. Forbes, John E. Thayer and 
 Brother, George B. Upton, Enoch Train and Com- 
 pany, Sampson and Tappan, and Josiah Bradlee 
 and Company, of Boston; Gary and Company, 
 Goodhue and Company, Josiah Macy and Sons, 
 Grinnell, Minturn and Company, and Charles 
 H. Marshall and Company, of New York; H. 
 and A. Cope and Company, of Philadelphia; 
 Birckhead and Pearce, of Baltimore; J. P. Whit- 
 ney and Company, of New Orleans; Flint, Pea- 
 body and Company, and Macondray and Com- 
 pany, of San Francisco; George A. Hopley and 
 Company, of Charleston; Archibald Gracie, of 
 Mobile; and the following foreign houses: Bow- 
 man, Grinnell and Company, and Charles Hum- 
 
 xi 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 berston, of Liverpool; Russell and Company and 
 Augustine Heard and Company, of Canton. 
 
 These were among the best known commercial 
 houses in the world at that time. Any business 
 man, familiar with the commercial history of the 
 modern world, should consider this list fair enough 
 evidence of the confidence I enjoyed among men 
 of affairs. Let me reproduce here — partly as evi- 
 dence along the same line, and partly because of 
 the value I attach to it on personal and friendly 
 grounds — the following letter from Mr. D. 0. 
 Mills: 
 
 "New York, September 30, 1901. 
 
 " Hon. George Francis Train, 
 
 " Mills Hotel, Bleecker St., New York. 
 " My Dear Citizen : 
 
 " The many appreciative notices that have come 
 to my attention of your distinguished talents of 
 early years lead me also to send you a line of ap- 
 preciation, particularly as touching the part played 
 by you in some of the great commercial enter- 
 prises that have so signally marked the nineteenth 
 century, notably in the Merchant Marine, and in 
 the building of the Union Pacific Railroad, in the 
 conception and construction of which you bore so 
 distinguished a part. 
 
 " The present generation, with its conveniences 
 of travel and communication, can not realize what 
 were the difficulties and experiences of the mer-* 
 chant and traveler of those early days when you 
 
 xii 
 
PREFACE 
 
 were engaged in the China trade, and your Clipper 
 Ships were often seen in the port of San 
 Francisco. 
 
 " The long voyage around the Horn, the danger 
 experienced from sndden attack by Indians while 
 traversing the wild and uninhabited country lying 
 between Omaha and the Pacific Coast, are experi- 
 ences which even an old voyager like myself 
 questions as he speeds across the continent, priv- 
 ileged to enjoy the comforts of a Pullman car, and 
 a railroad service that has shortened the journey 
 from New York to San Francisco from months to 
 a few days. In recalling the many years of our 
 pleasant acquaintance by sea and land, not the 
 least is the remembrance of your kind and genial 
 spirit, and I am glad to see that you have lost none 
 of your sincere wish to do good. 
 
 " With kind regards. 
 
 " Very truly yours, 
 
 " D. 0. Mills." 
 
 Mr. Mills has known me in many walks of life. 
 We have at times walked side by side. At others, 
 oceans have roared between us. He is my friend, 
 and I was glad to receive this kindly word from 
 him, after many long years of acquaintance. 
 
 Although I am a hermit now, I was not always 
 so. All who read this book must see that. I spent 
 many happy years in society — and never an un- 
 happy year anywhere, whether in jail or under 
 
 xiii 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 social persecution; and I have lived many years 
 with my family in my own cotmtry and in foreign 
 lands. My wife, of whom I have spoken of in the 
 following pages, passed into shadow-land in '77. 
 I have children who are scattered widely now. 
 My first child, Lily, was horn in Boston, in '52, 
 and died when five months old, in Boston. My 
 second daughter, Susan Minerva, was born in '55, 
 and married Philip Dunbar Guelager, who for 
 thirty-six years was the head of the gold and silver 
 department of the Subtreasury in this city. She 
 now lives at "Minerva Lodge," Stamford, Con- 
 necticut, with my seven-year-old grandson. My 
 first son, George Francis Train, Jr., was bom 
 in '56, and is now in business in San Fran- 
 cisco. Elsey McHenry Train, my last child, now 
 lives in Chicago. He was bom in '57. I was able 
 to see these children well educated, at home and 
 abroad, and to give them some chance to see the 
 great world I had known. 
 
 A last word as to myself. Eeaders of this book 
 may think I have sometimes taken myself too seri- 
 ously. I can scarcely agree with them. I try not 
 to be too serious about anything — not even about 
 myself. When I was making a hopeless fight for 
 the Presidency in '72, I made the following state- 
 ment in one of my speeches : 
 
 " Many persons attribute to me simply an im- 
 pulsiveness, and an impressibility, as if I were 
 some erratic comet, rushing madly through space 
 
 xiv 
 
PREFACE 
 
 emitting coruscations of fancifully colored sparks, 
 without system, rule, or definite object. This 
 is a popular error. I claim to be a close ana- 
 lytical observer of passing events, applying the 
 crucible of Truth to every new matter or subject 
 presented to my mind or my senses." 
 
 I think that estimate may be used to-day in this 
 place. It does not so much matter, however, what 
 I may have thought of myself or what I now think 
 of myself. What does matter is what I may have 
 done. I stand on my achievement. 
 
 And with this, I commit my life-story to the 
 kind consideration of readers. 
 
 Citizen Geoege Fkancis Train. 
 
 The Mills Palace, 
 
 September SS2, '02. 
 
 XV 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 PAGE 
 
 When I Was Four Tears Old. 1833 .... 3 
 New Orleans then my home — All the family except myself 
 perish from yellow fever. 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 My Voyage from New Orleans to Boston. 1833 . 16 
 Pour years old and the sole passenger — Sailors teach me to 
 swear — My aunt shocked at my depravity. 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 My Boyhood on a Farm. 1833-1843 .... 21 
 My grandfather a noted Methodist preacher — My first 
 money earned. 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 Schooldays and a Start in Life. 1840-1844 . . 85 
 Leader of the school — George Ripley my school-teacher — 
 Emerson comes to our village to lecture — Boston visited. 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 Early New England Methodism 45 
 
 How I was reared religiously — Ideas of right and wrong — 
 Things outgrown. 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 In a Shipping House in Boston. 1844-1850 . . 52 
 A place with my uncle — Progress rapidly made — I sell Em- 
 erson a ticket for Liverpool — I engage Rufus Choate and 
 Daniel Webster as our lawyers— My first speculation — 
 Building fast ships. 
 
 3 XVU 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 PAGS 
 
 A Vacation Tour. 1850 79 
 
 In "Washington I meet Webster, Clay, and President Tay- 
 lor — A letter with their autographs that served me well. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 A Partner in the Liverpool House. 1850-1852 . 90 
 In Scotland Lord John Russell receives me, and I meet 
 Lady Russell — Reform in the shipping business — Money 
 we made — The Duke of Wellington — I visit Chatsworth, 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 My Courtship and Marriage — Return to Liver- 
 pool. 1850-1853 109 
 
 How I first met my wife — Engaged to marry her within 
 forty-eight hours — Governors in my charge — Our wedding 
 and the commotion that preceded it — Phrenology. 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 Business Success in Australia. 1853-1855. . . 126 
 A fine income at twenty-one — Melbourne in those days — 
 American ideas introduced — Accused of stealing $3,000,000. 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 The Gold-Fever in New South Wales and Tas- 
 mania. 1853-1855 141 
 
 Lucky and unlucky miners— David D. Porter— Sydney in 
 those days — Free immigrants— Sir John Franklin. 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 Other Australian Incidents— A Eevolution . . 156 
 Proposed as a candidate for President— Riotous times- 
 Curious incidents in business. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 A Voyage to China. 1855 171 
 
 Failure of ambitious plans— My first love of flowers— A 
 remarkable Dutch colony, 
 
 xviii 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 In Chinese Cities. 1855-1856 182 
 
 Hetty Green's husband in Hongkong with me — Pirates and 
 the slave trade — Honesty of the Chinaman — ^Eating rats — 
 Pidgin-English — Li Hung Chang on board. 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 To India and the Holy Land. 1856 .... 204 
 New ideas in religion — My early Methodism recalled — 
 Where Christ was born. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 In the Ckimea. 1856 215 
 
 Plans in speculation that came to naught — The war, and 
 what I learned of it. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 Home Once More, and then a Eetuen to Europe. 
 
 1856-1857 221 
 
 Boston and New York after a long absence — With my wife 
 I go to Paris. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 Men I Met in Paris. 1857 226 
 
 A ball at the Tuileries — Eugenie very gracious to me — An 
 unexpected woman comes in — William H. Seward. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 Building the Atlantic and Great Western Rail- 
 way. 1857-1858 337 
 
 Queen Maria Christina's fortune employed— Salamanca, the 
 banker — How I secured a great loan. 
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 A Visit to Russia. 1857 249 
 
 I carry a message to the Grand Duke Constantine— A din- 
 ner with Colonel Greig— Moscow and the Nijnii Novgorod 
 
 fair. „^ 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Building the First Street-Railwats in England . 259 
 
 A line in Liverpool that still exists— Making a start in 
 
 London — Better success in Staffordshire. 
 
 xix 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 PAGE 
 
 England and our Civil Wae— Blockade Eunning . 271 
 Speeches for the Union in London halls — A plan to end the 
 war — Lincoln and Seward — Arrested for interrupting Sum- 
 ner in Boston — Dining with Seward when Antietam was 
 fought, 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 Building the Union Pacific Railway. 1862-1870 . 283 
 Early belief in such a project — The Credit Mobilier and its 
 origin — Men with whom I was associated. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 The Development op the Far West. 1863-1870 . 293 
 Plan for a chain of great cities across the continent — ^The 
 creation of Omaha— Cozzen's Hotel— Tour of the Pacific 
 Coast, 
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 The Share I Had in the French Commune. 1870 . 301 
 In Marseilles I help to organize the " Ligue du Midi" of the 
 Commune or " Red Republic "—Attacked by soldiers and 
 almost shot— Imprisoned and poisoned— Deported by Gam- 
 betta. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI 
 A Candidate for President. 1872 . . , .314 
 " Train Villa " at Newport— Independent candidate for the 
 presidency against Grant and Greeley— A tour of the coun- 
 try, m which I address hundreds of thousands. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII 
 
 Declared a Lunatic. 1872-1873 333 
 
 I defend Mrs. Woodhull-Arrested and imprisoned for 
 quotmg Soripture-Pifteenth imprisonment without a 
 crxme. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII 
 Around the World in Eighty, Sixty-seven and 
 
 Sixty Days. 1870, 1890, 1892 33I 
 
 The tour that Jules Verne used as the basis of his famous 
 story— In '90 I circle the globe in 67 days ; and in '92 in 60 
 days, 
 
 XX 
 
ILLTJSTEATIONS 
 
 FAOINO 
 TAGS 
 
 Portrait of Citizen Train made recently . Frontispieee 
 Portrait of Citizen Train's grandfather, the Rev. George 
 
 Pickering 2 
 
 Portrait of Mrs. George Francis Train .... 110 
 Citizen Train in the Mills Hotel dictating his Reminis- 
 cences 200 
 
 Citizen Train's former residence in Madison Avenue, 
 
 New York 286 
 
 Citizen Train's former villa at Newport .... 314 
 Citizen Train with the children in Madison Square . 324 
 Citizen Train and his guests at dinner in the Mills 
 
 Hotel 338 
 
 XXI 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES AND 
 IN FOREIGN LANDS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 WHEN I WAS FOUR YEARS OLD 
 1833 
 
 My grandfather was the Eeverend George Pick- 
 ering, of Baltimore — a slave-owner. Having fallen 
 in with the early Methodists, long before Garri- 
 son, Phillips, and Beecher had taken up the abo- 
 lition idea, he liberated his slaves and went to 
 preaching the Gospel. He became an itinerant 
 Methodist preacher, with the pitiable salary of 
 $300 a year. The sale of one of his " prime " 
 negro slaves would have brought him in more 
 money than four years of preaching. He would 
 have been stranded very soon if he had not had 
 the good sense to marry my beautiful grand- 
 mother, who had a thousand-aiere farm at Walt- 
 ham, ten miles out of Boston. My grandfather 
 thus could preach around about the neighborhood, 
 and then come back to the family at home. My 
 father married the eldest daughter of this Method- 
 ist preaching grandfather of mine, Maria Picker- 
 ing. 
 
 1 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 I was born at No. 21 High Street, Boston, dur- 
 ing a snow-storm, on the 24th of March, '29. 
 When I was a baby, my father went to New Orleans 
 and opened a store. Soon after arriving in that 
 city I was old enough to observe things, and to re- 
 member. I can recollect almost everything in my 
 life from my fourth year. From the time I was 
 three years old up to this present moment — a long 
 stretch of seventy years, the Prophet's limit of 
 human life — ^I can remember almost every event 
 in my life with the greatest distinctness. This 
 book of mine will be a pretty fair test of my 
 memory. 
 
 I can remember the beautiful jQowers of the 
 South, How deeply they impressed themselves 
 upon my mind! I can recall the garden with its 
 wonderful floral wealth, the gift of the Southern 
 sun. I can recollect exactly how the old clothes- 
 line used to look, with its load of linen— the rest- 
 ing-place of the long-bodied insects we called 
 "devil's darning needles," or mosquito hawks— 
 and how we children used to strike the line with 
 poles, to frighten the insects and see them fly away 
 on their filmy wings. And I can remember going 
 down to my father's store, filling the pockets of 
 my little frock with dried currants, which I thought 
 were lovely, and watching him there at his work. 
 
 Then came the terrible yellow-fever year. It 
 is still known there as the year of the fever, or of 
 the plague. This fearful epidemic swept over the 
 
Rev. (ii'iii-yc I'ickri'iiiy, (iccii-i^-i' ]<'i'ancis 'I'r.-iin's ^-mm I fat her. 
 
WHEN I WAS FOUK YEAKS OLD 
 
 city, and left it a city of the dead. It was a cata!s- 
 trophe recalled to me by that of Martinique. My 
 family suffered vdth the rest of the city. I re- 
 member well the horror of the time. There were 
 no hearses to be had. Physicians and undertak- 
 ers had gone to the grave with their patients and 
 patrons. The city could not afford to bury de- 
 cently so many of its dead inhabitants. And the 
 fear of the plague had so shaken the human soul 
 that men stood afar off, aghast, and did only what 
 they had to do in a coarse, brutal, swift burial of 
 the dead. 
 
 There were no coffins to be had, and no one 
 could have got them if there had been enough of 
 them. Corpses were buried, all alike, in coarse 
 pine boxes, hastily put together in the homes — and 
 often by the very hands — of the relatives of the 
 dead. One day they brought into our home a 
 coarse pine box. I did not know what it was or 
 for what it was meant. Then I saw them take the 
 dead body of my little sister Josephine and put it 
 hastily into the rough pine box. I was too young 
 to understand it all, but I can never forget that 
 scene ; it starts tears even now. After nailing up 
 the box and marking it to go "To the Train 
 Vaults," the family sat and waited for the coming 
 of the " dead wagon." The city sent round cart- 
 ers to pick up the numerous dead, just as it had 
 formerly sent out scavenger carts to take away 
 the r ^'ise. 
 
 3 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 "We could hear the "dead wagon" as it ap- 
 proached. We knew it by the dolorous cry of the 
 driver. It drew nearer and nearer to our home. 
 It all seemed so terrible, and yet I could not un- 
 derstand it. I heard the wagon stop under our 
 window. Now the scene all comes back to me, and 
 it recalls the rumble and rattle of those tumbrels 
 of the French Eeign of Terror: only it was the 
 fever, instead of the guillotine, that demanded its 
 victims. The driver would not enter the pest- 
 stricken houses. He remained in his cart, and 
 shouted out, in a heart-tearing cry, to the iimiates 
 to bring their dead to him. As he drove up to our 
 window he placed his hands around his mouth, as 
 a hunter does in making a haUoo, and cried; 
 " Bring out — bring out your dead ! " 
 
 The long-wailed dolorous cry filled the streets, 
 empty of their frequenters: "Bring out — ^bring 
 out your dead ! " Again at our home the cry was 
 heard ; and I saw my father and others lift up the 
 coarse pine box, with the body of my little sister 
 shut inside, carry it to the window, and toss it into 
 the " dead wagon." And then the wagon rattled 
 away down the street, and again, as it stopped 
 under the window of the next house, over the 
 doomed city rang the weird cry: "Bring out — 
 bring out your dead ! " 
 
 A few days later another rough pine box 
 was brought to our home. Again I did not under- 
 stand it; but I knew more of the mystery of 
 
 4 
 
WHEN I WAS FOUR YEARS OLD 
 
 death than I had Imown before. Into this box 
 they placed the body of my little sister Louise. 
 Then we waited for the approach of the " dead 
 wagon." I knew that it would again come 
 to our home, to get its freight of death. I 
 went to the window, and looked up and down 
 the street, and waited. Far in the distance, 
 I heard the cry: "Bring out — ^bring out your 
 dead!" 
 
 The wagon finally arrived. The window was 
 thrown open, the rude box was lifted up, taken to 
 the window, and thrown into the wagon, which 
 was already loaded with similar boxes. They 
 were in great haste, it seemed to me, to be rid of 
 the poor little box. And the carter drove on down 
 the street to other stricken homes, crying: " Bring 
 out — ^bring out your dead ! " 
 
 I now began to feel the loss of my sisters. Two 
 had gone. Only one was left with me, my little 
 sister Ellen, as frail and as lovely a flower as ever 
 bloomed. When the next box came, and she, dead 
 of the plague, was put into it, I thought it time for 
 me to interfere. I went to the window and stood 
 guard. Again came the terrible cry: "Bring out 
 —bring out your dead ! " And my last little sister 
 was taken away in the " dead wagon." 
 
 I was too young to understand it all, but I re- 
 member going with my father and mother in the 
 carriage every time they carried one of my sisters 
 to th'f, graveyard. 
 
 5 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 The next strange thing to happen was the 
 arrival in the house of a box much larger than 
 the others. I did not know what it could be for. 
 The box was very rough looking. It was made of 
 unplaned boards. My nurse told me it was for 
 my mother. Again I took my stand by the win- 
 dow. "Bring out — ^bring out your dead!" re- 
 sounded mournfully in the street just below the 
 window where I stood. I looked out, and there 
 was the "dead wagon." It had come for my 
 mother, 
 
 I was astonished to find that they did not 
 throw the box containing my mother into the 
 wagon. It was too large and heavy. Four or five 
 men had to come into the house and take out the 
 box. It was marked " To the Train Vaults," and 
 was put into the wagon with the other boxes con- 
 taining dead bodies. Only my father and I sat in 
 the carriage that went to the cemetery and to the 
 vaults that day. There were my mother and my 
 three little sisters ; all had been swept from me in 
 this St. Pierre style — in this volcano of yellow 
 fever. 
 
 Finally there came one day a letter from my 
 grandmother, the wife of the old Methodist itin- 
 erant preacher of Waltham : " Send on some one 
 of the family, before they are all dead. Send 
 George." And so my father made preparations 
 to send me back to Massachusetts. I can remem- 
 ber now the exact wording of the card he wrote 
 
 6 
 
WHEN I WAS FOUR YEAES OLD 
 
 and pinned on my coat, just like the label or tag 
 on a bag of coffee. It read: 
 
 " This is my little son George Francis Train. Four 
 years old. Consigned on board the ship Henry to 
 John Clarke, Jr., Dock Square, Boston ; to be sent 
 to his Grandmother Pickering, at Waltham, ten miles 
 from Boston. Take good care of the Little Fellow, as 
 he is the only one left of eleven of us in the house, 
 including the servants [slaves]. I 'will come on as 
 soon as I can arrange my Business." 
 
 I remember how we went down to the ship in 
 the river. She lay out in the broad, muddy Mis- 
 sissippi, and seven other vessels lay between her 
 and the shore. Planks were laid on the bank, or 
 " levee," as they called the shore in New Orleans, 
 and up to the side of the nearest ship. We climbed 
 over these planks and passed over the seven ves- 
 sels, and came to the Henry. My father kissed 
 me good-by, and left me on board the ship. 
 
 There I was, aboard this great vessel — for so 
 she seemed to me then — a little boy, without nurse 
 or guardian to look after me. I was just so much 
 freight. I was part of the cargo. We floated 
 down the Mississippi slowly, and floated on and 
 on toward the Gulf. We were floating out into the 
 great waters, into the great world, floating through 
 the waters of Gulf and ocean, floating along in the 
 Gulf Stream, and floating on toward my North- 
 ern home. 
 
 Thus I was floating, when I began my life 
 anew; and I have been floating for seventy years I 
 
 7 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 When my father said good-by to me, kissing 
 me as we passed over the last of the seven ships 
 between the Henry and the shore, I saw him 
 put a handkerchief to his face, as if to hide from 
 me the tears that were in his eyes. He feared that 
 my little heart would break down under the strain. 
 But I didn't cry. Everything was so new to me. I 
 was too small to reahze all that the parting meant 
 and all that had led up to it. I could not feel that 
 I was leaving behind me all the members of my 
 family — in the vaults of the graveyard. The ship 
 seemed a new world to me. I had no eyes for 
 tears — only for wonderment. 
 
 For many years afterward I heard nothing of 
 my father. He had dropped below the horizon 
 when I floated down the Mississippi, and I saw 
 and heard nothing more of him. As my mother 
 and three sisters had been buried together in New 
 Orleans, we had taken it for granted that father 
 had followed them to the grave, a victim of the 
 same pestilence. But nothing was known as to 
 this for many years. 
 
 We were anxious to have all the bodies brought 
 together in one graveyard in the North and buried 
 side by side. The family burying-ground was at 
 Waltham, where eight generations were then sleep- 
 ing—that is, eight generations of Pickerings and 
 Bemises. There were the bodies of my great- 
 grandmother, and of ancestors belonging to the 
 first Colonial days. My cousin, George Pickering 
 
 8 
 
WHEN I WAS FOUK YEAES OLD 
 
 Bemis, Mayor of Omaha, afterward had a monu- 
 ment erected over the spot where so many Bemises 
 and Pickerings lay in their long rest, to preserve 
 their memory. But my father's body was never 
 to rest there; nor was it ever seen by any of his 
 relatives. 
 
 My uncle, John Clarke, Jr., who had brought 
 me out of New Orleans and rescued me from the 
 plague, tried to find some trace of my father ; but 
 no record or vestige of him could be found in that 
 city. Every trace of him had been swept away. 
 His very existence there had been forgotten, 
 erased. No one could be found who had ever heard 
 of him, or knew anything about his store. So 
 completely had the pestilence done its terrible 
 work of destruction and obliteration. As this 
 period was prior to the invention of the daguer- 
 reotype, we had no photographs of him. The 
 only likenesses that were made then were ex- 
 pensive miniatures on ivory. I have no picture 
 of him, except the one I carry forever in my 
 memory. 
 
 Sixty years passed away. One day I received a 
 letter from one of my cousins, Louisa Train, who 
 was living in Michigan. She told me that her 
 father and mother had died, and that the furniture 
 of the old house, in which they and her grand- 
 parents had lived, had fallen to her. " In moving 
 an old bureau," she wrote, " it fell to pieces, and, 
 to my surprise, two documents rolled upon the 
 
 9 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 floor. These papers relate to you. One of them 
 was a letter from your father to his mother, writ- 
 ten from New Orleans shortly before you left that 
 city. In it he says: 
 
 " ' You can imagine my loneliness in being in 
 this great house, always so lively, with eleven per- 
 sons in it, including my own family — now all 
 alone. George is with his tutor. He is a very 
 extraordinary boy, though only four years old. 
 The other day he repeated some verses, of which 
 I can remember these lines: 
 
 " 'I am monarch of all I survey ; 
 
 My right there is none to dispute ; 
 From the center all round to the sea, 
 I am lord of the fowl and the brute.' " 
 
 I was to receive one other message from my 
 father. Since I began writing this autobiography, 
 my aged aunt, Abigail Pickering Frost, now in 
 her ninetieth year, discovered a letter that my 
 father had written to her and to her sister, my 
 aunt Alice, who afterward married Henry A. 
 Winslow, upon the day that he placed me on the 
 ship Henry, and sent me to my grandmother at 
 Waltham, Mass. Aunt Abigail, after the death of 
 aunt Alice, who was one of the victims in the 
 wreck of the Lexington, in January, '40, hid the 
 letter in the garret of the old Waltham farmhouse, 
 where she later discovered it. She now sends it 
 to me from her home in Omaha, Neb., where it 
 had again been lost, and found after a long 
 
 10 
 
WHEN I WAS FOUK YEARS OLD 
 
 search, as she knew that I would appreciate it as 
 a part of my life-story. 
 
 The letter came to me as a wail from the dead. 
 I was very young, and childish, and thoughtless 
 when I parted from him forever; hut his letter 
 brought back to me in a flood the bitterness of our 
 life in New Orleans, the loneliness of my father in 
 his great grief, and made me suffer, nearly seven- 
 ty years afterward, for the pain that I was then 
 too young to xmderstand or feel. I give this letter, 
 which is inexpressibly dear to me, just as it was 
 written. 
 
 " New Orleans, Jtme 10th, 18S3. 
 
 " Deab Sisters Abigail and Alice : 
 
 " 'Tis just two years since I left this place for 
 New York, and arrived in Boston the evening of 
 the 3d of July. I hope my dear boy will arrive 
 safe and pass the 4th of July with you. He is now 
 on board the ship (and the steamboat alongside 
 the ship) to the Balize. I have written several let- 
 ters by the ship, and found I had a few moments 
 to spare which I will improve by addressing you. 
 I refer you to the letters to Mother Pickering for 
 particulars — as I have not time to say much. I can 
 only say, my dear girls, that I am very unhappy 
 here for reasons you well know. / part with George 
 as though I was parting with my right eye — ^but 'tis 
 for his good and the happiness of all that he 
 should go ; take him to your own home, care, and 
 3 11 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 protection ; he is no ordinary boy, but is destined for 
 a great scholar. 
 
 " I am left here without a friend except nay God ! 
 in a city where the cholera is raging to a great ex- 
 tent — 100 are dying daily! and among them some 
 of the most valuable citizens, A sweet little girl 
 about the age of Ellen, and an intimate acquaint- 
 ance of George's, who used to walk arm in arm 
 with him, died this morning with the cholera, and 
 a great number of others among our most inti- 
 mate acquaintances have passed on. Mrs. Simons 
 died in six hours ! What is life worth to me? Oh, 
 my dear sisters ! could I leave this dreadful place 
 I would, and die among my friends ! The thoughts 
 of my dear Maria and Ellen fiU me with sorrow! 
 I have mourned over their tombs in silence. I 
 have been with them in my dreams, and frequently 
 I meet them in my room and talk with them as 
 though alive. All here is melancholy. "When 
 shall I see you, God only knows ! I have relieved 
 my heavy heart of a burden — ^a weight that was 
 almost unsupportable, 
 
 " In parting with my lovely boy I have bequeathed 
 him to Mother Pickering as a legacy — ^it being aU 
 that I possess ! You will take a share of the care, 
 and I know will be all that mothers could be for 
 your dear sister Maria's sake ! 
 
 " Give my love to Grandpa Bemis, Father Pick- 
 ering, and all the rest of the family. Say to them 
 that my mind is constantly unth them, and will ever 
 
 12 
 
WSEN I WAS FOUR YEAES OLD 
 
 be so. I have written in great haste and very 
 badly, as I am on board the ship and all is confu- 
 sion, with the steamboat alongside. Farewell, my 
 dear sisters! Do write me a line. If you knew 
 how much I prize a letter from you, you would 
 write often. Adieu, and believe me your affection- 
 ate brother, 
 
 " Oliver Train. 
 
 f To Misses Abigail and Alice Pickering, 
 Waltham, Mass." 
 
 The other document mentioned by my cousin 
 Louisa, was the deed of a farm by my paternal 
 grandfather, making a certain physician trustee of 
 the property. I never came into that property! 
 This was my first bequest. I had begun, even in 
 my infancy, to give away my property, and I 
 have thrown it away ever since. This first 
 "bequest," however, was none of my making, 
 although I accepted it, without trying to question 
 the matter. 
 
 Another involuntary " bequest " of my child- 
 hood was brought about in this way. My mother, 
 when a girl, was engaged to marry Stebbins Fiske. 
 It was by a mere chance that they were not married 
 — and therefore my name is " Train " by a mere 
 accident which changed the fate of my mother and 
 her fiance. My father was a warm friend of Steb- 
 bins Fiske, and when Fiske was called suddenly 
 to New Orleans, just before the day set for the 
 marriage, he left his betrothed, Maria Pickering, 
 
 13 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 in cliarge of my father. The result might have 
 been foreseen. It is the conamon theme of ro- 
 mance the world over. My mother and my father 
 fell in love with each other, and were married. 
 There was no thought of unfaithfulness; it was 
 merely inevitable. Fiske understood the situation, 
 and forgave both of them, and continued the stanch 
 friend of both. 
 
 In his will Fiske left a small sum — $5,000 — ^to 
 my mother's mother. It was the most delicate 
 way in which he could leave some of his money 
 so that his old sweetheart might get it. The terms 
 of the will were that this money should be divided 
 at my grandmother's death. It was so divided, 
 and a certain portion of it should have come to 
 me; but I never received a penny. This was my 
 second bequest, for I allowed others to take freely 
 what belonged to me. 
 
 My third bequest was made with my eyes open. 
 "When I was about starting for Australia in '53, 
 another uncle-in-law, George W. Frost, whom I 
 afterward appointed purchasing agent of the 
 Union Pacific Railway, a splendid gentleman and 
 a clergyman, came to me and said: "Your Aunt 
 Abbie " (his wife) " and myself are going to take 
 care of your old grandmother on the farm. Have 
 you any objections to signing away your interest 
 in the old place? " 
 
 I said that, of course, I would sign it away. I 
 was all right. I was going out into the great world 
 
 14 
 
WHEN I WAS rOUR YEARS OLD 
 
 to make fortunes. And I signed it away, as if it 
 were a mere nothing. 
 
 These incidents I mention here as illustrations 
 of my whole life. Since my fourth year I have 
 given away — thrown away — money. I have made 
 others rich. But I have never yet got what was 
 due me from others. 
 
 15 
 
CHAPTER n 
 
 MY VOYAGE FKOM NEW ORLEANS TO BOSTON 
 1833 
 
 I FOUND myself a part of the cargo — shipped 
 as freight, 2,000 miles, from the tropics to the 
 arctic region, without a friend to take care of 
 me. I was alone. This feeling, however, did not 
 oppress me overmuch. Every one on board tried 
 to make a pet of me, and, besides, there was so 
 much to do, so much to see, so much to feel. From 
 cabin to f o'cas'le I was made welcome. 
 
 There was only one cabin passenger besides 
 myself. I sat at table opposite this passenger, and 
 I remember that at the first meal they brought on 
 some "flapjacks" (our present-day wheat-cakes). 
 I was very fond of them, and ate them with sirup 
 or molasses. I noticed that my companion in the 
 cabin did not use molasses with his. I could not 
 understand why any one should eat his flapjacks 
 without molasses. 
 
 I thought this stranger too ignorant to know 
 that molasses was the proper thing with flapjacks, 
 and tried to help him to a fuller knowledge of the 
 
 16 
 
FROM NEW ORLEANS TO BOSTON 
 
 resources of the table. I reached over, and tried 
 to pour some molasses on Ms plate. Just then a 
 heavy sea struck the ship, and I was thrown for- 
 ward with a lurch. The entire contents of the 
 molasses jug went in a flood over the man's trou- 
 sers! Of course he was furious, and did not ap- 
 preciate my efforts to teach him. I expected him 
 to strike me, but he did not. It did not occur to 
 me to beg his pardon, as I was doing what I 
 thought to be a pure act of kindness. We after- 
 ward became good friends. 
 
 We were twenty-three days on the voyage. Be- 
 fore we had been aboard long I became friendly 
 with everybody on the ship, and they with me. 
 I was very active, and had the run of the boat. I 
 was like a parrot, a goat, or a monkey — or all 
 three. There was no stewardess on the boat, and 
 as I had no one to look after me, I led a wild sort 
 of life. I lived in the fo'cas'le, or with the sailors 
 on deck or in the riggings. I Hked the fo'cas'le 
 best. I soon got to feel at home there. Sometimes 
 I was in the cabin with my molasses-hating friend, 
 but the fo'cas'le was my delight, and there I was 
 to be found at all hours. During the twenty-three 
 days of the voyage I was not washed once ! I wore 
 the same clothes days and nights, and became a 
 little dirty savage ! 
 
 It may be easily imagined that communication 
 with these rough, coarse, honest, but vulgar sail- 
 ors had a terrible effect on me. Everything bad 
 
 17 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 that is known to sailors these sailors knew, and 
 very soon I knew. I observed everything, learned 
 everything. I soon cursed and swore as roundly 
 as any of them, using the words as innocently as if 
 they were quotations from the Bible. 
 
 One of the games the sailors used to play -vdth 
 me was to go up into the rigging and call down to 
 me that there was a great plantation up there that 
 I could not see. Then they would throw lumps of 
 sugar to me and tell me they came from the planta- 
 tion in the rigging, and monkeys were throwing 
 them to me. Of course I believed it all. How was 
 I to know they were lying to me? I was only four 
 years old. They stamped upon my mind the whole 
 fo'cas'le — ^its rough life, its jollity, its oaths, and 
 its lies. 
 
 As soon as our ship came to anchor out came a 
 boat with my uncle. I remember that there was a 
 little dog in the boat also. My uncle took me to 
 the wharf, and then to his tobacco store in Dock 
 Square. There I found awaiting us an old-fash- 
 ioned chaise, and my uncle said he would take 
 me right out to my grandmother's, at Waltham. 
 The drive took us through two or three villages, 
 and through several strips of forest. Finally we 
 drove up to a little gate that stood about half a 
 mile from the old farmhouse, and divided the next 
 place from the farm of my grandmother. There 
 were my aunts, all waiting for me. 
 
 Imagine the astonishment of my grandmother 
 18 
 
FKbM NEW OKLEANS TO BOSTON 
 
 and of my aunts on seeing the dirty little street 
 Arab that came to see them ! I was as intolerably 
 filthy as any brat that ever came out of a sewer. 
 I fairly reeked with the smells and the dirt of the 
 f o'cas'le ! To the dust and grime of New Orleans 
 I had added the dust and grime of the ship, for I 
 had not been near soap and water since I left New 
 Orleans. Fancy going to these clean and prim old 
 ladies in such a plight! But I was at least in 
 good health, and magnificently alive. 
 
 The first thing they did was to summon a sort 
 of town-meeting, to have me narrate the events 
 of my voyage. But before I was to go before my 
 audience I must be washed and have a change of 
 clothes. This part of the program was postponed 
 by an accident. The ladies heard me swear! It 
 shocked their gentle minds immeasurably. But I 
 didn't know what swearing meant. 
 
 What can not a boy learn in three weeks that is 
 bad? I suppose I must have picked up all the 
 wickedness of the fo'cas'le without knowing what 
 it was. It seemed all right to me; but not to my 
 good grandmother and to my aunts. 
 
 They wanted to cleanse me outwardly and in- 
 wardly, and prepared to start outwardly. They 
 insisted that I must change my clothes and have 
 a good scrubbing. But before they began I told 
 them some of my experiences aboard ship. I told 
 them about the sailors getting sugar from the 
 plantation up in the riggings and the monkeys 
 
 19 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 throwing it down to me. They told me there were 
 no fields up there, no monkeys and no sugar, ex- 
 cept what the sailors had carried up with them. 
 
 I was indignant. "If you don't believe my 
 story," said I, " about the plantation in the rigging 
 and about the monkeys and the sugar, you can not 
 wash me or change my clothes." 
 
 The Hue of battle was now drawn. If they did 
 not want to believe my story, I was not going to 
 let them do anything for me. That monkey-and- 
 sugar story was my ultimatum. They refused to 
 accept it. For three days they laid siege to me, 
 but I refused to be washed or clothed in a fresh 
 clean suit until they believed my story. I felt I 
 was telling the truth, and could not bear to have 
 my word doubted- Finally they said that they 
 believed my story. 
 
 There is an old tale of a boy who was told by 
 his parents, who did not want bim to cling any 
 longer to the old myth about Santa Claus, that it 
 was not Santa Claus that brought him all the good 
 things on Christmas, but that they, his parents, 
 had been giving him the presents year after year. 
 The boy turned to his mother and said: "Have 
 you been fooling me about the God question too? " 
 
 20 
 
CHAPTEE III 
 
 MY BOYHOOD ON A FARM 
 1833-1843 
 
 The old house where I spent these years of my;' 
 childhood and boyhood is now more than two hun- 
 dred years old. It was the home of the old Meth- 
 odists in that section, and had been the headquar^ 
 ters of the sect for a hundred years before it be- 
 gan to have regular " conferences." Here lived the 
 slave-owner Pickering, who married my grand- 
 mother, the farmer's daughter. If it had not been 
 for this home, which was a refuge and asylum 
 for the itinerant preacher, grandfather Pickering 
 would have starved. The farm was his anchorage. 
 Otherwise he would have gone adrift. 
 
 A religious atmosphere pervaded the place. It 
 left the deepest impress upon my mind. The only 
 paper we took was Zion's Herald, a religious 
 weekly published by Stevens, of Boston. The dif- 
 ference between this calm, religious life of the 
 Methodists and the turbulent, rough, and swear- 
 ing life of the fo'cas'le was very marked. But it 
 took me a long time to get away from the atmos- 
 
 21 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 phere of the fo'cas'le and into that of the Meth- 
 odists. Even the bath and the clean clothes did 
 not seem to change me very much. I discovered 
 that cleanliness is not so very near to godliness, 
 after all. 
 
 Of course the old Methodists had prayers in 
 the morning and at night, and they had grace at 
 every meal. Every one knelt at prayers. But 
 they could not make me kneel. I would not bow 
 the knee. I had not got over the sailors' ways, 
 and the monkeys, and the throwing down sugar 
 from the plantation in the sails — the Santa Glaus 
 part of it. I always remembered it. 
 
 Of course I was taken to the little church, a 
 mile off up in the woods, where my grandfather 
 preached. It was in his " circuit." As we were 
 coming home one day, and I was driving, the 
 chaise struck a stone, and the old gentleman was 
 jostled considerably. He impatiently seized the 
 reins from me and gave the horse a severe flip 
 with them, and drove the rest of the way himself. 
 The little incident made a deep impression on my 
 mind. I said to myself: "If this is the way 
 Christians act, I do not want to have anything to 
 do with them." 
 
 The Pickerings were an ancient Southern — and 
 before that, an English— family. Soine of the mem- 
 bers lived in South Carolina, some in Virginia, 
 others in Maryland. One of them sat in Wash- 
 ington's first cabinet. Like my grandfather, they 
 
 22 
 
MY BOYHOOD ON A FAEM 
 
 were all slave-owners. Judge Gilbert Pickering 
 was chairman of Cromwell's committee that cut 
 off King Charles's head. Grandfather Pickering 
 was a liberal man in many ways. I have spoken 
 already of his freeing his own slaves. He chose 
 the calling of an itinerant Methodist preacher, 
 when to do so meant tremendous financial sacrifice 
 and the loss of social rank. He almost starved at 
 it, but he stuck to it with great nobleness of mind. 
 It gave him a sort of religious freedom. 
 
 Once he could have been a bishop in the New 
 England branch of Methodism ; but he refused the 
 ambitious title. He did not believe in bishops for 
 their church. And so, setting aside every offer of 
 preferment, every opportunity of rising or getting 
 on in the world, he chose to labor at his simple 
 calling, like a martyr. And he would shortly have 
 found martyrdom in starvation, had it not been 
 for my lovely grandmother, with her thrift and 
 care. 
 
 The branch of Methodists to which my grand- 
 father belonged was very liberal. It was so lib- 
 eral, indeed, that my mother and her five sisters 
 had all been educated at the TJrsuline convent at 
 Charlestown, "Mass., which was destroyed by the 
 mob in '42. I remember that after the mob 
 burned this convent to the ground the Methodists 
 wanted to buy the site, and applied to the Boman 
 Catholic archbishop in Boston, who replied : " We 
 sometimes purchase, but we never sell." 
 
 23 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Another incident of my boyhood may be re- 
 called here, as it illustrates the stubborn pride 
 that had begun to show itself even then. One day 
 an elegant carriage drove up to the old house, and 
 a young lady, beautifully dressed, got out and 
 asked to see George Train. I went up to her, and 
 she told me who she was. 
 
 " You must remember, when you grow up," she 
 said, " that I am Miss Sallie Rhoades. We are one 
 of the few families of Maryland," she added, with 
 a pride that was evident even to my boyish eyes, 
 " that have been able to support their carriages for 
 one himdred and fifty years." She spoke with the 
 air of a grande dame, which stung my own pride 
 keenly. 
 
 " While I am very glad to meet my Southern 
 relative," I said, with equal pride, even if I could 
 not equal her manner, " we have kept our ox-cart 
 on the old farm for two hundred years." I ex- 
 pected the additional half a century to stagger her. 
 But it did not seem to reach home ; and she drove 
 away. This was the last I ever saw of "Miss 
 Sallie Rhoades, of Maryland," 
 
 In those days in New England we had to de- 
 pend very much on ourselves on the farm, and we 
 made as much of supphes as possible. I became 
 an adept at making currant wine, cider, maple 
 sugar, molasses candy, and sausages. I used also 
 to make the candles we burned on the place, mold- 
 ing them half a dozen at a time in the old candle 
 
 24 
 
MY BOYHOOD ON A FARM 
 
 mold, which was never absent from a country 
 house of that day. So, in my lifetime, I have 
 passed from the period of the tallow dip to the 
 electric light. 
 
 From four to ten years of age I earned my own 
 living on the old farm. I believe it is the only in- 
 stance in the world where a child of four supported 
 himself in this way. What I mean by earning my 
 own living is, that while the expense of keeping a 
 little youngster like me was very small, I earned 
 more than enough to pay my way. I dressed my- 
 self. No one took care of me. I was left pretty 
 much alone, except in the way of receiving relig- 
 ious admonition. I was always running errands 
 for the men and women of the place. There was 
 <3onstantly something for me to do. 
 
 Moreover, I was very ambitious. I wanted to 
 know everything that was going on about me. 
 This has ever been my characteristic. I was born 
 inquisitive. I have never been afraid to ask ques- 
 tions. If I ever saw anything I did not under- 
 stand, I asked about it; and the information stuck 
 in my mind, like a burr. I never forgot. I soon 
 learned everything there was to be learned on the 
 farm. 
 
 The room I slept in was a great wide one, and 
 I slept alone. I was not afraid; but I remember 
 the great size and depth of that cold New Eng- 
 land room. 
 
 Life on the farm was busy enough. I often set 
 25 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the table and did other things that the hired girl 
 did, and could soon do almost everything just as 
 well as she — from setting the table to preparing a 
 meal. All this I learned before I was ten years 
 old. I mention these little details merely to show 
 the difference between the life I had to lead in old 
 New England and the life my children and grand- 
 children have since led. 
 
 One blessing and glory was that I had the uni- 
 versal atmosphere. The woods and fields were 
 mine. I could roam in the forest and over the 
 fields at will. The great farm was a delight to 
 me. I was never afraid anywhere. Ill those 
 days there were no " hoboes " or " hoodlums " 
 roaming over the country. We kept no locks on 
 our doors, or clasps on the windows. Everything 
 was open. 
 
 On the farm, as about the house, I soon learned 
 everything that I could. I learned to sow and 
 reap, to plant various crops, to plow, hoe, mow, 
 harvest. And I had a special garden of my own, 
 where I raised a little of everything — onions, let- 
 tuce, cucumbers, parsnips, and other vegetables. 
 I knew their seasons, the time to plant them, and 
 when to gather them. I was an observer from the 
 cradle. Little escaped my eyes. And I have 
 made it a practise all through my life to master 
 everything as I came to it. 
 
 Of books I saw little in those days. The only 
 ones we had on the farm place, in what was termed 
 
 26 
 
MY BOYHOOD ON A FAEM 
 
 by courtesy the "library," were tbe Waverley 
 Novels, Jane Porter's Scottish Chiefs, Watts's 
 Hymns, and the Bible. There was, of course, 
 Zion's Herald, the religious weekly paper from 
 Boston I have already mentioned. These were 
 our literature. I read everything I could get hold 
 of, and soon exhausted the small resources of the 
 farm library. 
 
 We were so far from the village and the more 
 frequented roads that the only persons who came 
 to our house were peddlers, who sold us kitchen 
 utensils, such as tin pans and buckets, and the lone 
 fisherman, who would always sound his horn a mile 
 away to warn us of his approach. 
 
 The old house had the usual New England par- 
 lor or drawing-room, the room of ceremony, never 
 aired until some guest came to occupy it, or there 
 was a funeral or baptism in it. I have never found 
 farmers, anywhere in the world, who had any idea 
 of ventilation. They slept in closed rooms, with 
 out any regard to health or cleanliness — for noth- 
 ing is so cleansing as fresh, pure air. There was 
 the old fireplace, with the great andirons that could 
 sustain the weight of a forest tree, and often did. 
 Everything was a century old, and just that much 
 behind the day ; but that was then the case every- 
 where in New England rural sections. 
 
 And what fires we used to have in that cavern- 
 ous chimney! We would place a tremendous log 
 on the andirons, and build a fire about it. Soon it 
 4 27 
 
MY LIFE IN MAF? STATES 
 
 would give out a terrific heat, but it was not suffi- 
 cient to warm up the great room, into which the 
 cold air swept through a thousand cracks and 
 chinks. Our faces, bending over the blazing log, 
 would be fairly blistered, while our backs would 
 be chiUed with cold. The farther end of the room 
 would be icy cold, for drafts had free play. The 
 house was poorly built, so far as comfort was con- 
 cerned, although it was stout enough to last a 
 couple of centuries. Not only the winds but the 
 snow found easy entrance. If it snowed during 
 the night, I would find a streak of snow lying 
 athwart the room the next morning, often putting 
 my bare feet in it as I got up in the darkness. 
 
 The ignorance of the Puritan farmers of New 
 England was the densest ignorance that I have 
 ever seen, even among farmers. They knew noth- 
 ing, and seemed to care nothing, about the laws 
 of health or economy. They were content to live 
 exactly in the way their ancestors had lived for 
 generations. They learned nothing, and forgot 
 nothing — like the Bourbons. 
 
 This suggests to me the fact that the climate 
 of New England has changed tremendously since 
 I was a boy. Most old people say something like 
 this. When I was a boy there was snow every 
 winter and all winter. Now there is comparatively 
 little snow. Then it used to begin in November, 
 and we were practically shut in on our farms, 
 often even in our houses, for the winter. For six 
 
 28 
 
MY BOYHOOD ON A FAEM 
 
 i I II I !■■■ _ _^ l-PI — I 
 
 months the snow covered the earth. "When we 
 wanted to get out, we had to break our way out 
 with an ox-sled. The old clinaate of New England 
 has gone. 
 
 When I was ten years old I began taking 
 " truck " to the old Quincy market in Boston. It 
 was ten miles away, but I soon got accustomed to 
 going there alone and selling out the farm prod- 
 uce and vegetables. I had to get up at four o'clock 
 in the mornings, in order to look after the horse 
 and to harness him. He was called " Old Tom," 
 and was a faithful, trustworthy animal. 
 
 I would arrive at the market before dawn, and 
 would back the wagon up against the market- 
 house and wait for the light. I fed the horse, and 
 now and then, if the weather was particularly bad, 
 I would put him in a stable for a few hours, at a 
 cost of fifty cents, and feed him on oats. 
 
 After closing out the "truck," I would drive 
 to Cambridgeport, where I bought the groceries 
 and other supplies for the farm. My grandmother 
 trusted all this to me. After this I got a luncheon, 
 which cost me a " shilUng cut," as it was called 
 then — twelve and a half cents. Then I would drive 
 home, and could give to grandmother a full and 
 itemized account of everything, without having 
 set down a word or a figure on paper. This went 
 on for two or three years. 
 
 For amusement, as I have said, I had the uni- 
 versal atmosphere, and I had the great old farm, 
 
 29 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 and the forest and the fields. I had them all to 
 myself. I roamed over them, and through them, 
 at will. I used to set box-traps for rabbits and 
 snares for partridges. I had a little gun, also, and 
 a little dog, with which I would hunt rabbits or 
 squirrels. The dog I have always regarded with 
 wonder. He could see a gray squirrel at the top 
 of a tree half a mile away: Some persons think 
 he smelled the squirrel, but I am certain he saw it. 
 And he was only a mongrel, at that. He would 
 lead me to a tree, and I would shoot the squirrel. 
 The little dog — a sort of fox terrier — ^was the only 
 real friend I ever had. He was my constant com- 
 panion, whenever I could get to him or he to me. 
 In the winter I used him as a warming-pan. The 
 old farmhouse was cold — very cold. We had no 
 means of heating it. At night I would fimd the 
 sheets of my bed as cold as an ice-floe. Then I 
 would send my little dog down under the covering, 
 and he would stay there until he had warmed up 
 the bed. 
 
 Then there was pigeon-netting. This is an old 
 sport that has, I suppose, died out in New Eng- 
 land. In my boyhood, however, great flocks of 
 wild pigeons used to come to the New England 
 woods and forests. The device for catching large 
 numbers of them by netting was quite primitive, 
 but effective. 
 
 My uncle Francis (for whom I was named), 
 whom I used to help net pigeons, was quite a 
 
 30 
 
MY BOYHOOD ON A FAEM 
 
 sportsman. He was fond of fishing, and he was 
 a great hand at the nets. We had two places for 
 spreading the nets, one in the " vineyard " and the 
 other in a " burnt-hill " in the forest. All the 
 f ohage was stripped from several trees that were 
 close together. Then we would arrange the net so 
 it could be drawn together at the right time, spread 
 it over the ground, and bait it. Then we would 
 plant our stool-pigeons. As soon as we saw a 
 flock of pigeons approaching we would stir the 
 stool-pigeons by pulling on a string to which 
 they were attached. They would move about, as 
 if they were really alive. The pigeons would 
 circle about the spot, attracted by the fluttering 
 stool-pigeons, and then they would catch sight of 
 the grain and come down. When the net was 
 filled with them, we would draw the strings, 
 and sometimes we caught as many as a hun- 
 dred at a time. They were then killed and 
 sold. 
 
 By such work as this I was earning my own 
 support. This is a sample of my life on the farm 
 from four to ten years. I wore one suit of clothes 
 a year, and the suit cost originally not more than 
 $10, and was made at home. I had some little 
 pocket-money occasionally. I was permitted to 
 sell the rabbits and partridges, the spoil of my 
 traps and gun. These small resources usually 
 enabled me to keep a few cents — sometimes a few 
 dollars — in my pockets. 
 
 31 
 
MY LIFE IN MAKY STATES 
 
 There is nothing more extravagant and truly 
 wasteful than a boy with a few dollars in his pock- 
 ets. He can throw away his slender fortune with 
 magnificent bravado. One summer I had accumu- 
 lated $17, and, naturally, I was itching to spend it. 
 The hired man was going up to Concord to help 
 celebrate " Comwallis Day" (October 19), and I 
 got consent to accompany him. There was to be 
 a fair, and I took my money with me — ^very 
 stupidly. The memory of it was soon all that re- 
 mained. 
 
 My first step in extravagance was the purchase 
 of a bunch of firecrackers. It cost me, apparently, 
 ten cents ; but actually it was my financial undoing, 
 and cost me $17. I began to pop the crackers, and 
 soon had a crowd of boys around me. They were 
 envious of me. They didn't have money to buy 
 crackers. I popped away with great noncha- 
 lance, but husbanding my ammunition and pop- 
 ping only a single cracker at a time. This was 
 strategy of a high order; but I could not keep it 
 up. I didn't know the resourcefulness of boy-na- 
 ture. Presently, I heard a boy whisper just be- 
 hind me, to one of his companions : " Just wait a 
 minute, and you will see him touch off the whole 
 pack ! " 
 
 This was irresistible. My blood was fired with 
 ambition. I fired the whole bunch at once! The 
 hurrahs and yells were tremendous, and set me 
 wild. I went and bought another bunch, and 
 
 32 
 
MY BOYHOOD ON A FAEM 
 
 set it all off at one time, as if firecrackers were no 
 new thing to me. But my recklessness was not 
 to stop there. I had been carried off my feet by 
 the hurrah, as many an older person has been 
 before. 
 
 Our hired man came to me and said that a very 
 pretty thing was going on near by. I went with 
 him, and saw a man playing a game with three 
 thimbles, a pea, and a green cushion. The game 
 was to guess under which of the thimbles the pea 
 was concealed. The hired man thought he knew 
 and insisted that he knew, and the gamester want- 
 ed to bet him that he didn't. After a while another 
 man came up and tried his hand at guessing. He 
 also missed. The loss of his money made him in- 
 dignant, and he took up another of the thimbles. 
 The pea was not there. 
 
 The thing then seemed so easy to our hired 
 man that he asked to try a dollar on the game. 
 Then the irate man who had lost his money took 
 up the other thimble and brushed the pea off the 
 cushion. Our hired man, who let nothing that was 
 going on about the green cushion escape his 
 sight, saw the pea swept away, and eagerly bet 
 the dealer that there was no pea there at all. The 
 dealer took him up, and lifted the thimble, and lo ! 
 there was the pea. This did not satisfy the hired 
 man, who kept on betting, and losing until he had 
 no money left. Thus our savings went up in 
 powder smoke and in guesses at the whereabouts 
 
 33 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 of a fleeting pea. I did not gamble then, nor have 
 I gambled since. ' 
 
 But the firecracker day had its lessons for me. 
 It taught me some things about money and its 
 power, and it got me interested in Cornwallis. I 
 began to read American hi-story. 
 
 34 
 
CHAPTEE rv 
 
 SCHOOLDAYS AND A START IN LIFE 
 1840-1844 
 
 I WENT to school, of course, for this was a part 
 of the serious business of New England life. Our 
 schoolhouse was two and a half miles distant, and 
 the path to it lay across half a dozen farms and 
 ran through the forest for a mile. There I was 
 taught the " three E's," and nothing else. There 
 was no thought of Latin or Greek, and, except the 
 little 'rithmetic, no mathematics. I learned to 
 cipher, read, and write; but I learned these rudi- 
 mentary branches very rapidly. At night, in the 
 old farmhouse, my aunts would go over the tasks 
 of the day with me. 
 
 Our principal diversions were in the winter, 
 when we had delightful sleighing parties. The 
 school-children always had one great picnic. 
 There would be a six-horse sleigh, and the teacher 
 would be in charge of the party. "We visited the 
 surrounding towns, and it was a great affair to 
 us. We looked forward to it from the very com- 
 mencement of the school year. On examination 
 
 35 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 day, at the close of the term, we children had to 
 clean the schoolhouse. There was no janitor, as 
 now. But we enjoyed the work, and took a cer- 
 tain childish pride in it. 
 
 I remember that one of my earliest ambitions 
 was gratified at that period when I was chosen 
 leader of the school. I stood at the head of every- 
 thing. And it was no idle compliment. Boys are 
 not, like their elders, influenced by envy or jeal- 
 ousy. They invariably try to select the best 
 " man " among them for their leader. Jealousies, 
 envy, and heart-burnings come afterward. 
 
 Beading the accoimt of the collision between 
 the Priscilla and the Powhatan in the Sound off 
 Newport, this year, and the peril that threat- 
 ened five hundred passengers, there came to my 
 mind the recollection of a catastrophe that hap- 
 pened sixty-two years ago, and how the tidings 
 were brought to me. I can live over again the 
 horror of that day. I recall that it was in Jan- 
 uary, '40. 
 
 It was a stormy, bitter day, and I was in the 
 little schoolhouse at Pond End, two and a half 
 miles from the farm. The snow had been falling 
 a long while, and everything was covered with it. 
 As the day advanced, and the snow piled deeper 
 and ever deeper about the little house, and cov- 
 ered the forests and fields with a thicker blanket 
 of white, we began to grow anxious. Now and then 
 a sleigh would drive up through the drifting, fly- 
 
 36 
 
SCHOOLDAYS AND A STAET IN LIFE 
 
 ing snow, and the father and mother of some child 
 in the school would come in and take away the 
 little boy or girl and disappear in the storm. I 
 began to think, with dread, of how I, a little fellow, 
 would be able to find my way home through the 
 blinding snow, when suddenly there came a tap 
 on the door. The teacher went to the door, and 
 called to me : " George, your uncle Emery Bemis 
 has just arrived from Boston in his sleigh, and 
 wants to take you home with him." 
 
 When I got into the sleigh he seemed to be 
 very sad. He sat quiet for some little time, and 
 then turned to me and said : " George, I have some 
 terrible news for your grandmother. She is at the 
 farmhouse now, waiting to see her youngest 
 daughter, your aunt Alice. Your grandmother 
 expects me to bring her. She was coming from 
 New York on the steamer Lexington, with the dead 
 body of her husband [and his brother and father], 
 which she wanted to bury in the family graveyard. 
 There were three hundred passengers on the ship. 
 The Lexington was wrecked and burned in the 
 Sound, and three hundred persons were lost — 
 burned or drowned. Your aunt was lost. Only 
 five passengers were saved." 
 
 Such were the horrible tidings my uncle was 
 bearing to my grandmother and my aunts, instead 
 of the living presence they were expecting. This 
 incident left an ineradicable impression upon my 
 mind. There was one peculiar thing about the ac- 
 
 37 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 cident of the Lexington that struck me at the time 
 as being weird and imforgettable. When the ship 
 went to pieces the pilot-house was shattered, and 
 a portion of it floated away and lodged against the 
 rocks near the shore. The bell itself was unin- 
 jured, and still swung from its hangings, and there 
 it remained, clanging dolorously in every wind. 
 It seemed to my boyish fancy to be tolling per- 
 petually for the dead of the Lexington. 
 
 Years afterward, while making a speech in a 
 political campaign, I made use of this incident. I 
 said the Democratic party of the day was adrift 
 from its ancient moorings, and was always calling 
 up something of the remote past. It was like the 
 bell of the Lexington, caught upon the rocks that 
 had wrecked the ship and tolling forever for the 
 dead. 
 
 George Ripley, who was the leader at Brook 
 Farm and, long afterward, was associated with 
 Charles A. Dana in the preparation of the Ameri- 
 can Cyclopedia, was at one time my school-teacher 
 on Waltham Plains. General Nathaniel P. Banks, 
 who was a few years older than I, was chairman 
 of our library committee. "We used to have lec- 
 tures in Rumford Hall. (By the way, this hall 
 was named for Count Rumford, whom most per- 
 sons take to have been a German or other for- 
 eigner, on account of his foreign title ; but he was 
 an American.) The lecture night was always a 
 great event in Waltham. One day a man came to 
 
 38 
 
SCHOOLDAYS AND A START IN LIFE 
 
 me and said, " Here is a remarkable letter." He 
 read it to me, and it was as follows : 
 
 " To the Library Committee, Waltham: 
 
 " I will come to lecture for $5 for myself, but 
 ask you for four quarts of oats for my horse. 
 " Ralph Waldo Emerson." 
 
 The lecture that Mr. Emerson delivered for 
 us boys of the library committee in Waltham was 
 entitled "Nature." We paid him $5 and four 
 quarts of oats for it. He delivered it many times 
 afterward, when his name was on every lip in the 
 civilized world, and he received $150 to $500 for 
 each delivery. He was just as great then, in that 
 hour in the little old town of Waltham ; it was the 
 same lecture, with the same exquisite thought and 
 marvelous wisdom ; but it took years for the world 
 to recognize the greatness and the beauty and the 
 wisdom of him, and to value them at their higher 
 worth. The world paid for the name, not for the 
 lecture or the truth and beauty. 
 
 During this period I attended school for three 
 months every summer. My grandparents wanted 
 to make a clergyman of me. But that sort of 
 thing was not in me. I was sent up to Mr. Leon- 
 ard Frost, at Framingham, ten miles distant, and 
 lived with him. Certainly my board could not 
 have been more than $2 a week, and the tuition 
 amounted to scarcely anything. I was with Mr. 
 
 39 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Frost just three months, at a total expenditure for 
 educational purposes of about $25! This consti- 
 tuted my college education. I was then fourteen 
 years old; and this is all the school education I 
 have ever had. 
 
 The chief game we played when I was a boy 
 was what we called " round ball," which has now 
 developed into the national game of baseball. I 
 was quite an adept at the game, as I took great in- 
 terest always in all sports and easily excelled in 
 them. I had also a fancy for chemistry, and my 
 first experiment was the result of sitting down 
 upon a bottle of chemicals. It cost me certain por- 
 tions of my clothing, and made a lasting impres- 
 sion upon me. It effectually put an end to my 
 desire to study chemistry further. 
 
 About this time a sweeping change came 
 in my life. One day I happened to overhear my 
 aunts talking about my future. The good ladies 
 had come to the conclusion that a clergyman's life 
 was not the Uf e for me ; so they were debating the 
 question of sending me out to learn a trade. They 
 said it was evident that I would not be a clergy- 
 man, a doctor, or a lawyer ; so I must be a black- 
 smith, or a carpenter, or a mason. Now I did not 
 want to be any of these things. 
 
 As soon as I got an opportunity I told my aunts 
 that I did not intend to be a carpenter, or a mason, 
 or a blacksmith. I said I was going down to Bos- 
 ton—not to the market, but to get a position some- 
 
 40 
 
SCHOOLDAYS AND A START IN LIFE 
 
 where. They were astounded. They could not be- 
 lieve their ears. But I went. 
 , The city seemed bigger than ever, now that I 
 had to face it and conquer it, or have it conquer 
 me. But I was not beaten before the fight. I be- 
 gan walking through the streets with as bold a 
 heart as I could summon, and kept searching the 
 windows and doors for any sign of " Boy wanted." 
 I had seen such notices pasted up in windows when 
 I came into the town on marketing trips. 
 
 Finally I saw such a sign on a drug-store in 
 Washington Street, and walked in. I told the 
 druggist I should like to go to work. He offered 
 me my board and lodging for looking after the 
 place. I asked him what sort of clothes he wanted 
 me to wear, and he replied that the suit I had on 
 — ^my Sunday clothes — ^would do for every day. 
 I was quite happy and started to work. 
 
 The first night I slept in the same building 
 with the store, but above it. About one o'clock in 
 the morning the bell rang. Some one wanted, the 
 doctor at once. I said I wasn't a doctor, and that 
 the doctor was not there. The messenger ran off. 
 This was bad enough, to be routed up in the mid- 
 dle of the night that way. The next day the drug- 
 gist went away from the store on some business. 
 I sampled everything edible in the place. I tried 
 the different kinds of candy, and sirups, and then 
 went out and bought some lemonade and a dozen 
 raw oysters. The result may be imagined. After 
 
 41 
 
MY LITE m MANY STATES 
 
 a few mimites of Mont Pelee, I decided that I had 
 had enough of the drug business. I told the drug- 
 gist my decision, shut the door, and left the store, 
 a disappointed and lonely little fellow. 
 
 I hesitated as to my next step. But there was 
 the old farmhouse — and it invited me very tender- 
 ly just then to return. I was not conquered yet, but 
 would fight on. I turned, as if by instinct, toward 
 Cambridgeport, the scene of my trafficMngs with 
 the grocer. My uncle Clarke lived there, the 
 uncle that had brought me on from New Orleans ; 
 but I could not make up my mind to go to him, 
 either. The family would laugh at me. No! I 
 would get another place — but it would not be in a 
 drug-store ! 
 
 Then I had an inspiration. There was the 
 grocer named Holmes ! Why not try him? I would. 
 So I went to the store of Joseph A. Holmes, at 
 the corner of Main Street and Brighton Eoad. To 
 my eager inquiry, Mr. Holmes said: "You have 
 come just in time. We want a boy." Then he 
 asked me what wages I wanted, " Just enough to 
 live on," I said. " You can live with us," he said; 
 " and I will give you one dollar a week." That 
 meant $50 a year. It was a great sum to me. I 
 began to work at once. 
 
 This was the winter of '43-'44, and I was 
 fourteen. My work was to drive the grocery 
 wagon up to Old Cambridgeport, take orders, and 
 fill them. I had to get up at four o'clock in the 
 
 42 
 
SCHOOLDAYS AND A START IN LIFE 
 
 morning to look after the horse, just as I had done 
 on the farm, and to get everything ready for the 
 trip. I had the orders of the day before to fill and 
 to deliver at the college. Besides, I had to work in 
 the store after I came back from Old Cambridge- 
 port. In the evening I had to look after the lamps, 
 sweep out, put up the shutters, and do numberless 
 other little things about the store. The store was 
 closed at ten o'clock at night. Then I would put 
 out the lights, which were old-fashioned oil lamps. 
 
 It was a long day for a boy — or for a man. I 
 worked eighteen hours every day. And the labor- 
 ers in the Pennsylvania coal-mines are now strik- 
 ing for an eight-hour day! I had six hours of 
 night in which to go to bed and to find what sleep 
 I could. This life continued for about two years. 
 In that time I had learned to do almost everything 
 that was to be done about a grocery store. I had 
 really learned this in the first six months. 
 
 One of my many little duties was to make paper 
 bags. I had to cut the paper and paste it together. 
 Another task was to take a hogshead of hams, put 
 each ham in bagging, and sew it up. Then I had 
 to whitewash each particular ham. That was a 
 nice business! It went against my nature more 
 than any other part of my manifold labors in the 
 store. 
 
 Mr. Holmes was a Baptist deacon, but the only 
 thing about him to which my youthful taste ob- 
 jected was that he chewed tobacco all the time. 
 5 43 
 
MY LITE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Yes, there was another objection. He insisted 
 upon my joining the Bible class in his Sunday- 
 school. This I would not do. I could not explain 
 it all to him; but the Santa Claus matter had not 
 yet worn out of my mind. 
 
 One day at the grocery store, Mr. Holmes 
 brought in an elderly gentleman and said to me: 
 " George, I want you to take this gentleman " 
 (naming him) " up to the college, and walk about 
 with him." The gentleman seemed to me to be 
 about sixty years old. Mr. Holmes cautioned me 
 about keeping him out of any danger, as he was 
 not very well. " Don't talk to him," he said to me, 
 " unless he wants to talk to you." 
 
 The thing was like a holiday to me. I walked 
 with him up to the college, and all around, as much 
 as he wanted to; and it never occurred to me, in 
 all the days I was with him in this way, to find out 
 who he was, or to think about it at all. 
 
 He was John Jacob Astor, Jr., eldest son of 
 the founder of the great house of the Astors. He 
 was practically an invalid. He was then in charge 
 of a Mr. Dowse, who generally left him to the care 
 of Mr. Hohnes, and who, in turn, left him to me. 
 After this, he came to New York, where he was 
 taken in charge by his brother, William B. Astor. 
 
 44 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 EARLY NEW ENGLAND METHODISM 
 
 Before I get away from my boyhood days, I 
 want to say something about the manner of my 
 rearing in the bosom of old New England Meth- 
 odism. I was reared in the strictest ways of mo- 
 rality, in accordance with the old system. Grand- 
 mother told me that I must not swear, must not 
 drink intoxicating liquors, must not lie, must not 
 use tobacco in any form. It seemed to me she was 
 stretching out the moral law a little, and that there 
 were fifteen, instead of ten, commandments, ia the 
 religious scheme of Methodism. And each com- 
 mandment was held up to me as an unfailing pre- 
 cept that would make a man of me. I used to say 
 to myself that I would be fifteen times a man, as 
 I intended to keep them all. 
 
 But while this training was proceeding, and I 
 was being warned against drinking and using to- 
 bacco, there were some strange inconsistencies 
 going on side by side with the precepts. My old 
 grandmother smoked what was known as " nigger- 
 head " tobacco, in a little clay pipe. The pipes 
 
 45 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 cost about a cent apiece. I used to cut up tMs to- 
 bacco for her. But as she smoked, she lost no 
 opportunity of impressing upon me the dreadful- 
 ness of the tobacco habit. 
 
 I made bold one day to ask her why it was that 
 she smoked, and yet told me not to smoke. She 
 touched herself in the right side, and said, " The 
 doctor tells me to smoke for some trouble here." 
 But she was a very lovely old lady, and I would 
 never write or speak a word that could harm the 
 dear memory of the mother of my mother. 
 
 At this time, also, her father was living. I re- 
 member the old gentleman now, in his red cap, then 
 a wonder to me, but which afterward became very 
 familiar in Constantinople and the East as the 
 Turkish fez. He was very aged, being then well 
 along in the eighties. Every night I used to go up 
 to his room and make him a toddy. He always 
 wanted me to mix this drink for him, as I had 
 learned to make it exactly to his taste. He had the 
 rare consistency never to say anything to me about 
 the immorality of drinking, nor did I ever speak 
 to him about the matter. But one day I asked my 
 grandmother about this "toddy." She touched 
 her left side, and said, "It is for something 
 here." 
 
 I could not understand it, but here were mys- 
 terious " somethings " in my grandmother's right 
 side, and in her father's left side, that nullified 
 the Methodist religious system and set at naught 
 
 46 
 
EARLY NEW ENGLAND METHODISM 
 
 tlie additional commandmeiits, " Thou shalt not 
 drink," and " Thou shalt not smoke." 
 
 But the scheme of morality proved a good thing 
 for me, and served to guide me aright in all my 
 wanderings about the world and up and down in it. 
 I think it very good testimony to the soundness 
 and virtue of my moral training that I have wan- 
 dered around the world four times, have lived in 
 every manner known to man, have been thrown 
 with the most dissolute and the most reckless of 
 mankind, and have passed through almost every 
 vicissitude of fortune, and have never tasted a 
 drop of intoxicating liquor, and have never 
 smoked. I have kept all of the commandments — 
 those of Sinai and those of the Methodists. 
 
 In my period of wealth and prosperity, I have 
 entertained thousands of men, have seen thousands 
 drinking and drunken at my table — and under it; 
 but I never touched a drop of my own wine or of 
 the wine of others. I have paid a great deal of 
 money for the purchase of all sorts of tobacco, 
 and for all sorts of pipes — narghiles, hookas, chi- 
 bouks — as presents for others ; but never touched 
 tobacco myself in any way. I have been in every 
 rat-hole of the world — ^but I never touched the 
 rats. It is for these reasons that I am seventy- 
 three years young, and am hale and strong to-day, 
 and living my life over again like a youth once 
 more. 
 
 Years afterward, when I was lecturing, my 
 47 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 cousin, George Pickering Bemis, ex-Mayor of Oma- 
 ha, and my atmt Abbie and my cousin Abbie at- 
 tended the one I delivered in Omaha, and all of 
 them felt a little hurt by my allusions to the old 
 Methodists, and to my grandmother and her father. 
 Bemis wrote to me that they were horrified.. But 
 they forgot that what I said of the Methodists 
 and of my ancestors was in their praise. I was not 
 ridicuhng them, but extolling them. I told of these 
 incidents of my childhood, because I was speaking 
 of my childhood, and these were facts. One of 
 the strictest commandments of old Methodism was 
 to tell the truth. They were not satisfied with the 
 mild negative of the Sinaitic commandment, " Thou 
 shalt not lie." They added a positive decree, 
 " Thou shalt speak the truth." That was all I was 
 doing. I was telling the truth about my childhood 
 and boyhood. I have never spoken anything but 
 the truth in all my life. This, too, I owe to the 
 early training in Methodist virtues and precepts, 
 and to the example and counsel of my dear old 
 grandmother. 
 
 I could not join the Bible class, at the urgent 
 request of the grocer, Mr. Holmes, because I could 
 not see the necessity of God, and no one could ever 
 explain to me the reason why there should be, or 
 is, a God. I could never recognize the necessity. 
 Morality and ethics I could see the necessity 
 of, and the high and authoritative reason for; but 
 religion never appealed to my intelligence or to 
 
 48 
 
EARLY NEW ENGLAND METHODISM 
 
 my emotions. The story of the Prodigal Son only 
 taught me that to be a Christian one must do some- 
 thing to be forgiven for, to repent of ; and I could 
 not see the strength of such an argument. The 
 plain and sound " ethics " of Methodism, outside 
 of " faith " and " belief," always seemed to me to 
 be higher and better than this. 
 
 I feel that in an autobiography I should say 
 this much about my moral creed and principles. 
 Later in life the Bible got me into much trouble, 
 involved me in persecutions, and finally landed me 
 in jail — all of which I shall refer to in due season. 
 
 Children are born savages and cheats. It is 
 only training that makes true and honest men and 
 women of them. When a child of five and six, I 
 slept with my aunt Alice, the one who was after- 
 ward lost on the Lexington. One night I saw a 
 fourpence in her pocket-book. When I saw that 
 she was asleep, I got up quietly, went to her pock- 
 et-book where it lay on the table and took the four- 
 pence out of it. But I could not retain it. It 
 seared into my conscience. Before she woke up, 
 I went as quietly back to the purse and placed the 
 fourpence exactly where I had found it. My Meth- 
 odist training saved me. 
 
 On another occasion, my grandmother took me 
 to Watertown to buy me a suit of clothes. In the 
 store I noticed, while my grandmother was talking 
 with the clerk, a lovely knife in the show-case. I 
 wanted it. All my boyish instincts went out to 
 
 49 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 that knife. I had never had a knife, and was hun- 
 gry for one. I looked around, with all the inherit- 
 ed cunning of savage and barbarian and predatory- 
 ancestors in a thousand forests and for a hundred 
 centuries. No one was observing me. Quietly, 
 stealthily, I went to the case. I lifted the top, 
 took the beautiful knife, and put it in my pocket. 
 It was done. I had the knife, and no one would 
 ever be any wiser. I was safe with my spoil. But 
 again my Methodist-driUed conscience awoke. It 
 made me go back to the show-case and replace the 
 stolen knife. I actually felt better — for a time. 
 
 Then the appeal of nature came back stronger 
 than before. I longed for the knife. There was 
 no resisting the predatory impulse. Again I stole 
 behind the counter, opened the case, took out the 
 knife, and placed it securely in my pocket. Again 
 it had been done without chance of detection. But 
 again my Methodist-made conscience came to the 
 fore. Again it saved me from being a thief. I 
 went back to the case, and put the knife in its place, 
 but with great reluctance. Still a third time I took 
 the knife from the case and secreted it in my 
 pocket, and again the Methodist conscience proved 
 stronger than human nature, and I restored the 
 treasure to its proper place. I was finally able to 
 leave the store without the knife, and with a clean 
 conscience. 
 
 These are the only instances when I started to 
 do an evil thing, and in both of them I did not 
 
 50 
 
EARLY NEW ENGLAND METHODISM 
 
 go the full length, but restored the property I 
 coveted. Since that time, and with these excep- 
 tions, for the entire period of my life I have never 
 cheated, stolen, or lied. And yet I have been in 
 fifteen jails. For what? 
 
 When I was clerk in Mr. Holmes's grocery 
 store I was in charge of the money-drawer. I re- 
 ceived no salary from Mr. Holmes, but took out 
 the $1 a week that I was allowed, and kept an ac- 
 count of it. I was trusted, and did not betray in 
 the slightest degree this trust and confidence of 
 my employer. Every cent that I took out of, or 
 put into the cash-drawer was entered upon my ac- 
 count-book, and I was ready at any and all times 
 to show exactly how my account stood with the 
 store. 
 
 51 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 1844r-1850 
 
 The next change in my life, and the real begin- 
 ning of my career as a business man, was soon to 
 come. I had got as much out of the grocery store 
 as it could give me, and was yearning for a change 
 and a wider field of labor. 
 
 One day a gentleman drove up to the store iu 
 a carriage drawn by an elegant team of horses, 
 and asked if there was a boy there named Train. 
 Mr. Holmes thereupon called to me, and said to 
 the strange gentleman, " This is George Francis 
 Train." He then told me that the stranger was 
 Colonel Enoch Train, and that he wanted to speak 
 to me. 
 
 The first thing Colonel Train said was, " I am 
 surprised to see you, George. I thought all your 
 family were dead in New Orleans. Your father 
 was a very dear friend of mine — and your mother, 
 too." He said, as if repeating it to himself, like 
 a sort of formula, "Oliver Train, merchant in 
 Merchants' Row." Then he continued : " He was 
 
 52 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 my cousin. But we had heard that you were all 
 dead. Where have you been? " I told him where 
 I had been living for the past ten years, with my 
 grandmother at Waltham, and how my uncle 
 Clarke had brought me back from New Orleans. 
 
 After he had made a number of inquiries of me, 
 and I had given him all the stock of information 
 I had, Colonel Train drove back to Boston. I 
 watched the retreating carriage, and brave and 
 disturbing thoughts came to me. 
 
 The following day I went to Boston. I had no 
 very definite plan of action, but I knew that when 
 the time and opportunity came I should find my 
 way, as usual. And so I went directly to the great 
 shipping house of Train & Co., at 37 Lewis Wharf. 
 The big granite building seemed titanic to my 
 eyes then, as if it contained the whole world of 
 business and enterprise. When I went back to 
 Boston years and years afterward, it seemed only 
 a plain, ordinary affair. At first sight of it the 
 place was simply ahead of and greater than any- 
 thing I had seen. When I had outgrown it, it 
 seemed small. 
 
 When I came up to the building, my purpose 
 was at once clear. I walked in and asked to see 
 Colonel Train. The colonel shook hands cordially, 
 and said he was very glad to see me. " Where do 
 I come in? " I asked. 
 
 " Come in? " he almost gasped at this effron- 
 tery. "Why, people don't come into a big ship- 
 
 53 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 ping house like this ia that way. You are too 
 young." 
 
 "I am growing older every day," I replied. 
 " That is the reason I am here. I want to make 
 my way in the world." " Well," said the colonel, 
 smiUng at me, " you come in to see me when you 
 are seventeen years old." 
 
 " That will be next year," I replied. " I am 
 sixteen now. I might just as well hegin this year 
 — right away." He tried to put me off one way 
 after another; but I was not to be got rid of. I 
 was there, and I meant to stay. 
 
 "I will come in to-morrow," I said. Then I 
 left, quite content with myself and the turn my 
 venture had taken. Of the issue I had no doubt. 
 
 Early on the following day, I went to the ship- 
 ping office, and took my seat at one of the desks. 
 I sat there and waited. After a little while. Colo- 
 nel Train came in. He was astonished to see me 
 sitting there, ready for work. 
 
 "You here? " he stammered. " Have you left 
 the grocery store? " " Yes, sir," I said; " I have 
 learned everything there is to learn there and in 
 fact had done so before I had been there six 
 months. I want a bigger field to work La." 
 
 " You don't mean to say you have come here 
 without being invited? " "As I was not invited, 
 that was about the only way for me to come," I 
 said. " As I am here, I might as well stay." And 
 I settled myself in the seat at the desk. 
 
 54 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 Colonel Train looked at the bookkeeper sorely 
 perplexed. But I saw that lie rather admired my 
 persistence and bravado. I had won the first trial 
 of arms. 
 
 "Well," said he, after a while, turning again 
 to the bookkeeper, "we shall see if we can find 
 something for you to do." " I will find something 
 to do," I said. He smiled cordially at this, and 
 said : " I will make a man of you." " I will make 
 a man of myself," I replied. 
 
 Then the colonel asked Mr. Nazro, who had 
 been the firm's bookkeeper for many years, to try 
 to find something for me to do. 
 
 It so happened that the ship Anglo-Saxon had 
 just arrived from Liverpool, Captain Joseph E. 
 Gordon, with goods for 150 consignees. Mr. 
 Nazro handed me the portage bill showing the 
 amount to be collected from each of the 150 con- 
 signees. The amoimts were set down in English 
 money, and Mr. Nazro asked me to put them into 
 American, or Federal, money. I fancied he was 
 setting me what would prove to be an impossible 
 task, just to dispose of me for all time. But he 
 blimdered, if this was his purpose. I had had 
 some experience of English money at the grocery 
 store, having often to change it into American 
 money. 
 
 I coolly asked Mr. Nazro what was the pre- 
 vailing rate of exchange, and he replied that it was 
 $4.80 to the poipd^* That is just 24 cents to the 
 
 '""55 ■ 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 shilling, two cents to the penny," I said, and went 
 to work. It was then noon. It would have taken 
 some clerks a week to do the task ; but I had com- 
 pleted it by six o'clock that afternoon. 
 
 When I handed the list back to him, he asked, 
 with an astonished air, if I had finished it. " You 
 can see for yourself," I replied. " There it is, all 
 made out properly and correctly." " How do you 
 know it is right?" said he. "Because I have 
 proved it," I replied. 
 
 This little task decided my fate. Mr. Nazro 
 told me the office hours were from eight until six, 
 with the rest of the time, the evenings, all my own. 
 
 The next morning I arrived at the office 
 promptly, and asked Mr. Nazro what I was to do. 
 He handed me a package of biUs. I saw they were 
 the bills upon which I had worked the day before, 
 changing English to American currency. There 
 were 150 of them. Each was to contain the amount 
 that must be collected from each of the consignees. 
 I at once set to work on this new task, and com- 
 pleted it in less time than it had taken me to 
 change the money. I went with the bills to Mr. 
 Nazro, and asked what I was to do next. He gave 
 me a collector's wallet into which to put the bills, 
 and told me to go out and collect the amounts due. 
 This was a staggerer, but I set about the diffi- 
 cult undertaking without any feeling of discour- 
 agement. 
 
 At that time Boston was a strange city to me. 
 56 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 It is true that I had lived on the edge of it for 
 years ; but my ceaseless work at the grocery store 
 had kept me from roaming over the town and 
 learning anything about it. The only section I 
 was at all familiar with was the neighborhood of 
 the old Quincy Market, to which I had driven so 
 many wagon-loads of garden and farm "truck" 
 in my boyhood days. I was as green as a genuine 
 countryman who had come to town for the first 
 time in his life. I knew not a soul in the city. 
 But off I started, nothing abashed, with the great 
 wallet of bills under my arm. I intended to suc- 
 ceed at this task. 
 
 I soon picked out my course through the city. 
 I worked through street after street, and collected 
 as I went. I did not stop, but kept steadily on, 
 and in the afternoon found myself at the end of 
 the list. I had collected nearly every bill. 
 
 I returned to the office and handed the wallet 
 and money to Mr. Nazro. Again he was aston- 
 ished. He asked if I had collected all the bills, 
 and when I told him nearly all, he asked me for the 
 list. I said I had made out none, as it was not 
 necessary. There was all the money; he could 
 count it, and compare with the list on his books. 
 He was very much surprised, but counted the 
 money, and found it correct to a cent. I did not 
 need a list, I told Tiim, because I could carry the 
 whole thing in my head. 
 
 From that day to this I have done everything 
 57 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 I have undertaken in my own way, and have found 
 that it was the best way — at least, for me. 
 
 My next duty was to see that every one of the 
 150 consignees received the goods that were billed 
 to him. This gave me opportunity for meeting a 
 large number of important persons. Among the 
 rest, I met Nathaniel P. Banks, who was a Cus- 
 tom-House oflScial at the time, and the great writer, 
 Nathaniel Hawthorne, whom I saw in the Custom- 
 House on a visit from Salem. He had been ap- 
 pointed by President Polk. Of course I knew 
 nothing about him at the time, although he was 
 then writing his greatest work, and perhaps was 
 casting in his mind The Scarlet Letter. He had 
 only just begun to be famous— an interesting fact 
 enough, but one I did not learn till long after- 
 ward. He seemed very unassuming, and not in 
 very affluent circumstances. I suppose his salary 
 from the Government at the time was not more 
 than $1,000 a year. 
 
 My life in the old shipping house of Train & 
 Co., in Boston, lasted some four years. The 
 first vessel that came in, after I began working 
 with the company, was the Joshua Bates, named 
 after the American partner of the famous house 
 of the Barings. It was of 400 tons, quite a big 
 ship for the time. The next was the Washington 
 Irving, 500 tons; and the third was the Anglo- 
 Saxon, the bills of which, on a previous voyage, 
 I had made out in my trial under Mr. Nazro. The 
 
 58 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 Anglo-Saxon was lost tlie following year — this 
 was in '46 — off Cape Sable, with several passen- 
 gers, the captain and crew escaping. After this 
 the Anglo-American came in, then the Parliament, 
 the Ocean Monarch, and the Staffordshire. All of 
 these were famous ships ia their day. 
 
 In '48, I was at the pier one day on the look- 
 out for the Ocean Monarch. Although the tele- 
 graph had been established in '44, it had not been 
 brought from Nova Scotia to Boston, and we had 
 only the semaphore to use for signaling. "When 
 a ship entered the harbor, the captain would take 
 a speaking-trumpet and, standing on the bridge, 
 shout out the most interesting or important tidings 
 so that the news would get into the city before 
 the ship was docked. The Persia was also due, 
 with Captain Judkins, and it came in ahead of the 
 Ocean Monarch. Some three or four thousand 
 persons were on the pier waiting eagerly for the 
 captain's news. I was at the end of the pier, and 
 saw Captain Judkins place the trumpet to his lips, 
 and heard him shout the tidings. And this is what 
 I heard: 
 
 " The Ocean Monarch was burned off Orm's 
 Head. Four hundred passengers burned or 
 drowned. Captain Murdoch taken off of a spar 
 by Tom Littledale's yacht. A steamer going to 
 Ireland passed by, and refused to offer assist- 
 ance. Complete wreck, and complete loss." 
 
 The captain shouted hoarsely, like a sentence 
 6 59 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 of doom from the " last trump." Every one was 
 stunned. The scene was indescribable, both the 
 dead silence with which the dreadful tidings were 
 received, and the wild excitement that soon burst 
 forth. 
 
 I took advantage of the awed hush of the peo- 
 ple, and rushed toward the street end of the pier. 
 There I leaped on my horse that was waitiog for 
 me, and galloped off. Crossing the ferry, I went 
 madly through Commercial Street, up State 
 Street, and to the Merchants' Exchange. There 
 I mounted a chair, and amid a great hush, shouted 
 out the tidings, word for word, and in almost the 
 exact intonation the captain had used. 
 
 One day a gentleman, looking like a farmer, 
 came into the office and asked to see Mr. Train. 
 I remember that it was the 5th of October, '47. 
 I replied to his question that my name was Train. 
 " I mean the old gentleman," he said. 
 
 I told him that Colonel Train was out of the 
 office at the time, but that as I had charge of the 
 ships, I might be able to attend to his business. 
 But I added that I was in a hurry, as the Wash- 
 ington Irving was to sail in an hour. " That is 
 just what I am here for," said he. " I want to sail 
 on that ship ; I want passage for England." 
 
 I told him there was one state-room left, and 
 that he could have both berths for the price of one 
 — ^$75, but that he must get aboard in great haste, 
 as everything was ready and the ship waiting for 
 
 60 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 final orders. He said he was ready, and I started 
 to fill up a passenger slip. " What is your 
 name?" I asked. "Ealph Waldo Emerson," he 
 replied. 
 
 Then he took out of his pocket an old wallet, 
 with twine wrapped around it four or five times, 
 opened it carefully, and counted out $75. I could 
 not wait to see whether it was correct, but threw it 
 in the drawer, and took him on board. 
 
 Mr. Emerson was then starting on his famous 
 visit to England, during which he was to visit 
 Carlyle. He afterward mentioned the occurrence 
 in his English Traits, where he said : " I took 
 my berth in the packet-ship Washington Irving." 
 From the moment when I thus met Emerson 
 for the second time, I began to take great in- 
 terest in him, read him carefully, and have con- 
 tinued to read him throughout my life. He has 
 had more influence upon me than any other man 
 in the world. 
 
 We once chartered the ship Franklin to take 
 a cargo of tar, pitch, and turpentine from Wil- 
 mington, N. C, consigned to the Baring Brothers, 
 London, and return with a cargo of freight. She 
 was about due from England, thirty-five days hav- 
 ing elapsed since she had started to return. By 
 this time I had been placed in charge of all the 
 shipping, and I was on the lookout for the Frank- 
 lin. One day the news came by semaphore that a 
 large ship had been wrecked just off the light- 
 
 61 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 house, while coining into Boston harbor. It was 
 not known what ship it was. The sender of the 
 message asked if Train & Co. had a ship due. I 
 thought at once it might be the Franklin, making 
 a somewhat faster passage than we had expected. 
 
 The next day some of the wreckage came into 
 the harbor, and, strangely enough, a piece of the 
 floating timbers bore the name Franklin on it. I 
 was at the pier when this discovery was made, and 
 rushed at once to the insurance office to see 
 whether the policy covering the freight had been 
 arranged. It was all right. On the following 
 day, to the astonishment of aU Boston, the valise 
 of one of the officers of the Franklin was washed 
 ashore at Nantasket. In it were many letters, 
 and among them were instructions telling how " to 
 sink the vessel off the lighthouse, as she was fully 
 insured." When the ship went down the captain 
 was drowned with the rest of the crew and the pas- 
 sengers. 
 
 I saw at once that here was a case of barratry 
 of the master, and that the letter would jeopardize 
 the whole affair of the insurance. It was a mat- 
 ter that needed prompt and able legal work. I 
 hastened to the office of Eufus Choate, the most 
 famous lawyer in New England of that time. I 
 hurriedly explained to Mr. Choate that we had 
 lost a ship, and needed a lawyer. " Will you ac- 
 cept a retainer of $500? " I added. He accepted 
 it at once, and turned to his desk to write out a re- 
 
 62 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 ceipt. I said there was no necessity for a receipt, 
 as the check would be receipt enough, and hurried 
 away. 
 
 I then went directly across the street to the 
 office of Daniel Webster, who was then practising 
 law in Boston. I was particularly anxious to have 
 Mr. Webster retained. I remember now the roar 
 of his great, deep voice as he responded to my 
 knock with a "Come in" that was like a battle 
 peal. And I recall well the picture of the great 
 man, as I saw him for the first time. He sat at 
 his flat desk, a magnificent example of manhood, 
 his massive head set squarely and solidly upon his 
 shoulders. He did not have very much business 
 in those days, and the clients that found a way to 
 his office were few. 
 
 " Mr. Webster," I said, " we want your services 
 in a very important case. Will you accept this as 
 a retainer?" I handed him a check for $1,000. 
 He accepted it very promptly, and it seemed to 
 me at the time that the check loomed large to him. 
 Such sums came seldom. 
 
 One incident in the trial of the case impressed 
 me deeply. It was the masterly manner in which 
 Mr. Choate examined the witnesses. He had the 
 reputation of being the most effective cross-exam- 
 iner in New England. Before him, in the witness- 
 box, stood one of the owners. Mr. Choate wanted 
 to confuse him ia his testimony as to the way in 
 which he had done a certain thing. He began by 
 
 63 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 asking the longest and most complex question that 
 I ever heard. It wound all around the case, and 
 straggled through every street in Boston. " You 
 say," Mr. Choate began, "you say that you did 
 so and so, that you went to such and such a place, 
 that after this you did so and so, and thus and so," 
 and he kept on asking him if after doing this and 
 that if such and such was not the case, untU there 
 was no answering the question, or understand- 
 ing it. 
 
 But Mr. Choate had tackled the wrong man for 
 once. The man was an Irishman, and the most 
 nonchalant person I ever saw. Nothing seemed 
 to confuse him. While Mr. Choate was firing his 
 complicated questions at him, he sat perfectly un- 
 moved, imshaken. He seemed to be taking it all 
 in. Then when the astute lawyer had finished, the 
 witness looked at him quietly, and said : " Mr. 
 Choate, will yez be after rapatin' that again?" 
 
 Bar and bench and spectators broke into roars 
 of laughter. For once Mr. Choate was confused. 
 But we won the case, as was to be expected, thanks 
 to our matchless array of legal ability. 
 
 We had two ships engaged in making what was 
 known as " the triangular run "—from Boston to 
 New Orleans, New Orleans to Liverpool, and Liv- 
 erpool back to Boston. They were the St. Peters- 
 burg, built in '40 for the cotton trade, and having 
 for a figurehead the head and shoulders of the Em- 
 peror Nicholas; and the Governor Davis, named 
 
 64 
 
m A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 for the governor of the Bay State, whose son is 
 now living at Newport. Once we were expecting 
 the Governor Davis to arrive at New Orleans, 
 where the freight rates were higher than they had 
 been in many years — three farthings the pound. 
 The vessel was to be loaded with cotton for Liver- 
 pool. We were elated at the prospect of big prof- 
 its, when a telegram came from our agent, Levi H. 
 Gale, at New Orleans. It read : " The Governor 
 Davis is burned up." 
 
 Our hearts sank. A fortune had been lost, or 
 at least the opportunity to make one. I went im- 
 mediately to the insurance office to see that the 
 policies were all right, and found them in good 
 shape. Then it occurred to me that there might 
 be a possibility of error in the message. Eager 
 with my thought, I rushed to the telegraph office 
 and asked to have the message repeated carefully, 
 no matter what it might cost. After awhile there 
 came back what had been a terrifying message in 
 this new form : " The Governor Davis is bound 
 up." The vessel was safe, and so were our profits. 
 
 My connection with the packet lines brought 
 me into contact with many prominent business 
 men of Boston. Very often I was able to do some 
 little thing for them, and once a very amusing in- 
 cident occurred in connection with the attempt of 
 Mr. Milton, of the firm of Milton, Cushman & Co., 
 to get some English pigs for breeding purposes. 
 I had charge of the catering for our vessels, and 
 
 65 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 made the purchases. Mr. Milton asked me to get 
 him some English pigs, and I promised that we 
 would bring some over by the very next ship. As 
 the vessels were out for quite a time, we fre- 
 quently carried live animals aboard for food, and 
 usually hogs and pigs. It so happened that on 
 this particular trip, when going east, one of the 
 sows gave birth to a litter of pigs. They were 
 taken to Liverpool. By some mistake they were 
 brought back and delivered to Mr. Milton. He 
 prized them very highly, imtil later on he discov- 
 ered that they were American pigs, bom under 
 the American flag on the high seas. The mistake 
 subjected him to much good-natured chaflSng. No 
 one forgot the incident during the old gentleman's 
 life. 
 
 Of course, there was always present the temp- 
 tation to do a little business on my own accoxmt, 
 during my connection with the Train Packet Lines. 
 Indeed, the desire to do this, and the experience I 
 got in it, were the foundations of my subsequent 
 business success. It was inevitable that I should 
 have undertakings of my own. 
 
 My first speculation was the shipment of a 
 cargo of Danvers onions to Liverpool in consign- 
 ment of Baring Brothers. I was eager to have my 
 first venture turn out a success. The onions were 
 packed carefully in barrels, and I saw myself that 
 they were in the best condition before they were 
 shipped. I felt as if I had taken every precaution, 
 
 66 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 and that I was assured of a pretty good thing. 
 Then came the news from England : " Onions ar- 
 rived ; not in good order. Debit, £3 17s. 6d." 
 
 That was the disappointing result of my first 
 venture. I was a loser. Years afterward, when 
 I was launching shipping lines between Australia 
 and America, I cited this little experience of mine 
 as an example of what might be expected by many 
 who sent cargoes to the other end of the world. 
 
 My second venture proved more successful. 
 This was the shipping of fish on ice to New Or- 
 leans. It paid me well. But my real career as a 
 shipper started in quite another and different way. 
 I am ashamed to confess how I began this career, 
 which made me a shipper of cargoes to the other 
 end of the earth. But as I was too ignorant at 
 the time to know much better, or, indeed, to give 
 any thought at all to the matter, I shall, in the in- 
 terest of truth, make a full confession. I became 
 a smuggle^, of opium into China ! 
 
 It happened in this way. One of our captains, 
 who was about to start with a cargo for the 
 Orient, asked me if I did not want to send over 
 something for sale, as he thought a good 
 profit might be made on a shipment of something 
 in demand there. " What would be a good thing 
 to send? " I asked. " Opium," said he laconically. 
 
 Opium meant nothing to me then. I had never 
 thought of it in any way other than as a market- 
 able product and an object in cargoes. So I went 
 
 67 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 to Henshaw's, in Boston, and got three tins of 
 opium, the best he had. This I placed in charge of 
 the captain, and he smuggled it into China, and 
 got a good price for it, to the profit of himself 
 and me. 
 
 But the smuggling did not end there. I had 
 instructed him to lay in a supply of curios, silks, 
 and other oriental things, and bring them to Bos- 
 ton. This part of the venture was as successful 
 as the first, and I made quite a snug little sum. It 
 was my first considerable profit. That was in 
 '46-'47. 
 
 I do not think any one in good standing in 
 business has an idea now of cheating the Govern- 
 ment out of tariff duties. I had not, at that 
 time, the slightest idea that I was doing wrong. 
 I felt entirely innocent of defrauding two govern- 
 ments, and did not realize that I was a smuggler. 
 The wrong of the transaction I fully understood 
 afterward. 
 
 But I fear that the moral sense as to smug- 
 gling, to use an ugly term, was not sa delicate in 
 those days. Even patriotic and good men thought 
 that it was not very bad to bring in articles from 
 Europe and the Orient without stopping to pay the 
 duty levied by the United States. There was no 
 systematic attempt to defraud the Government. 
 There was just no thought at all, except to get in 
 a few luxuries upon which it did not seem worth 
 while to pay the customs dues. I can recall a few 
 
 68 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 examples of this lax way of treating tlie tariff 
 regulations. They were the acts of men of great 
 social and business prominence. If done to-day, 
 they would shock the whole country — even the 
 Democratic and low tariff, or no tariff, part of it. 
 
 One day a banker, who was a famous figure in 
 Boston, a leader in the world of business, asked 
 me if I could not bring over for him some silver 
 he had ordered sent to the Train offices in Liver- 
 pool. I consented. Shortly after this, the steward 
 of the Ocean Monarch told me he had a very heavy 
 package addressed to " George Francis Train." I 
 directed him to bring it into the office. Then I saw 
 that the heavy package was addressed, in the cor- 
 ner, from the shippers to this famous Boston 
 banker. And so, without any intent to defraud 
 the Government on my part, and, I suppose, with- 
 out any intent on the part of the great banker to 
 do a distinctly wrong act, we had actually con- 
 spired to smuggle in some exquisite silver plate 
 for the richest banker in New England, to save a 
 few dollars' tariff duty! 
 
 Once while I was in Paris, in '50, I wanted 
 to buy some presents for the young lady to whom 
 I was engaged to be married — Miss Davis — ^who 
 was then living in Louisville, Ky. I called at the 
 Paris office of a famous American firm of jewel- 
 ers, and the resident agent took me to a magnifi- 
 cent establishment, where I saw the wealth of a 
 world in gems. 
 
 69 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 An amusing thing happened, which I shall re- 
 late before I complete the story of this smug- 
 gling incident. I asked at once to see the most 
 beautiful things the shop contained, the latest, and 
 most charming. Imagine my surprise and horror 
 when the young girl who was showing me around 
 the shop exhibited to me a package of pictures 
 that would have subjected me to immediate arrest 
 and incarceration had they been found on my per- 
 son in this city. She explained to me that this was 
 the part of the business in her charge, and that 
 she thought, as I was an American and new to 
 Paris, I wanted to get hold of some startling pic- 
 tures to carry back to the United States. 
 
 Passing through this temptation unscathed, I 
 finally got to the jewels and gems of aU sorts, and 
 selected some for my betrothed. I bought about 
 $1,000 worth. Suddenly the agent of an American 
 house turned on me and said he was thinking of 
 sending a present to his firm in New York, and 
 asked if I would not take charge of it and deliver 
 it, or have it delivered direct. Of course I did not 
 know what this meant — that he wanted me to get a 
 package of jewels to his firm without paying the 
 tariff duty. I consented, however, before I went 
 into the ethical question, and brought over, per- 
 haps, a package of splendid and costly diamonds 
 for one of the richest houses in the world. 
 
 While in charge of the ships of the house in 
 Boston I had a little yacht, called The Sea Witch, 
 
 70 
 
IN A SHIPPmG HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 that I used in boarding vessels in the harbor. One 
 day there arrived a very great man, in my opinion 
 a tower of strength in finance — Thomas Baring, 
 afterward Lord Eevelstoke, who succeeded Lord 
 Ashburton as the representative of England in 
 this country. I had prepared to take him on a trip 
 around the harbor, and everything was ready for 
 the sail the following day, when he was suddenly 
 called to Washington, and sent me a note which 
 read as follows : 
 
 "Dear Mr. Train: 
 
 "As I leave for Washington in the morning, 
 I regret that it will not be possible for me to go 
 with you on The Sea Witch to see Boston harbor. 
 I remember with pleasure the canvasback ducks 
 that you sent to me at London, and which gave me 
 and my friends so much pleasure. I hope to see 
 you on my return. 
 
 " Thomas Baring." 
 
 The great development of the clippers, the 
 boats that soon made the reputation of the United 
 States on the seas, was due chiefly to the discovery 
 of gold in California. This made it necessary to 
 send a great number of ships to the Pacific coast, 
 and I saw that it was essential to the success of the 
 trade to send large boats that could make profits 
 on this long voyage. 
 
 Gold was discovered in '48. At that time cm* 
 71 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 packets had attained to the size of only 800 tons. 
 They were considered large boats at the time, but 
 now would be called mere tubs. I saw that if we 
 wanted to enter the trade with the Pacific we 
 should have to get larger ships. Our first packets 
 had been built at East Boston by Donald Mackay: 
 the Joshua Bates, 400 tons; the Washington Irv- 
 ing, 500 tons ; the Anglo-Saxon, 600 tons ; the An- 
 glo-American, 700 tons; the Ocean Monarch, 800 
 tons. In a few years we had enlarged the packet 
 chpper from a vessel of 400 tons to one of 800 
 tons, or twice the size. The Ocean Monarch was 
 regarded as a veritable monster of the seas. 
 
 When the gold-fever was setting the country 
 frantic, and every one, apparently, wanted to go 
 to California, I said to Mackay: "I want a big 
 ship, one that wiU be larger than the Ocean Mon- 
 arch." Mackay replied, " Two hundred tons big- 
 ger?" "No," said I, "I want a ship of 2,000. 
 tons." Mackay was one of those men who merely 
 ask what is needed. He said he would build the 
 sort of ship I wanted. " I shall call her the Fly- 
 ing Cloud," I said. This is the history of that 
 famous ship, destined to make a new era in ship- 
 building all over the world. 
 
 Longfellow sent me a copy of his poem. The 
 Building of the Ship, which he had written to com- 
 memorate the construction of a much smaller ves- 
 sel. Not only ship-builders, but the whole world, 
 was talking of the Flying Cloud. Her appearance 
 
 72 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 in the world of commerce was a great Mstoric 
 event. 
 
 No sooner was the Flying Cloud built than 
 many ship-owners wanted to buy her. Among 
 others, the house of Grinnell, Minturn & Co., of 
 the Swallow-Tail Line, of Liverpool, asked what 
 we would take for her. I replied that I wanted 
 $90,000, which meant' a handsome profit. The 
 answer came back immediately, "We will take 
 her." "We sent the vessel to New York under 
 Captain Cressey, while I went on by railway. 
 There I closed the sale, and the proudest moment 
 of my life, up to that time, was when I received a 
 check from Moses H. Grinnell, the New York head 
 of the house, for $90,000. 
 
 The Flying Cloud was sent from New York to 
 San Francisco, and made the passage in eighty- 
 six days, with a full cargo of freight and passen- 
 gers, paying for herself in that single voyage out 
 and back. Her record has not been beaten by any 
 sailing ship in the fifty-three years that have since 
 elapsed. 
 
 The building of this vessel was a tremendous 
 leap forward in ship-building ; but I was not satis- 
 fied. I told Mackay that I wanted a still larger 
 ship. He said he could build it. And so we began 
 another vessel that was to outstrip in size and 
 capacity the great Flying Cloud. 
 
 I was desirous to name this ship the Enoch 
 Train, in honor of the head of the Boston house, 
 
 73 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 and had said as nmeh to Duncan MacLane, wlio 
 was the marine reporter for the Boston Post. 
 MacLane had usually written a column for his 
 paper on the launching of our ships. He wanted 
 to have something to write about the new vessel. ■ 
 I told him the story of Colonel Train's life, and 
 that we were going to christen the new vessel with 
 his name. I did not consult Colonel Train, thrtik- 
 ing that, of course, it was all right. 
 
 The Post published a long account of the ship, 
 and gave the name as the Enoch Train. When I 
 went down to the office that morning Colonel 
 Train had not yet arrived, but he soon came in, 
 walking straight as a gun-barrel, and seeming to 
 be a little stiff. " Did you see the Post this morn- 
 ing? " I asked. "Premature," he replied. That 
 was all he said. He would not discuss the matter. 
 I was nettled that he did not appreciate the honor 
 I thought I was conferring on him. It was not 
 for nothing that a man's name should be borne 
 by the greatest vessel on the seas. I said to my- 
 self that the name should be changed at once. The 
 ship was to be of 2,200 tons burden, larger than 
 the Flying Cloud and the Staffordshire, both of 
 2,000 tons, and I decided to call her the Sovereign 
 of the Seas. 
 
 The news that we were building a still bigger 
 ship was rapidly circulated throughout the world. 
 Many shipping lines wanted to buy her before she 
 was off the ways. Despatches from New York 
 
 74 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 shipping lines making inquiry as to price came 
 almost daily. I invariably replied tliat we would 
 take $130,000. But this was a little too stiff a 
 price at that time, although the Flying Cloud had 
 paid for herself in a single trip. I finally sold her 
 to Berren Roosen, Jr., of Hamburg, Germany, 
 through the brokers Funch & Menkier, of New 
 York, for $110,000. She was entered in my name, 
 although I was at the time only nineteen years of 
 age. I was quite proud to have the greatest ves- 
 sel then afloat on any water associated with my 
 name. She was sent to Liverpool. 
 
 The CaUfomia business had grown steadily, 
 and the house of Train had taken a leading part in 
 it. One of the biggest of our ships was built ex- 
 pressly for it, and employed on the long run from 
 Boston to San Francisco. This was the Stafford- 
 shire, which we had named for the great potteries 
 in England from which we got so much of our im- 
 port freights She was of the same size and ton- 
 nage as the Flying Cloud — 2,000 tons. "We sent 
 her to California on her first trip under Captain 
 Eichardson, full of freight and passengers. There 
 were three hundred passengers, each paying $300 
 for the trip around the Horn. This brought us in 
 $90,000, completely paying for the cost of building 
 and equipping, with cash in hand, before she 
 sailed. 
 
 The Flying Cloud and the Staffordshire were 
 followed by about forty fast clippers during the 
 7 75 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 great gold-fever of '49. I was still in my teens, 
 and consider it not an insignificant thing to have 
 accomplished the initiation of this magnificent 
 clipper service which revolutionized sailing ves- 
 sels all over the world, and gave to America the 
 reputation for building the fastest ships on the 
 seas. 
 
 When the California business first opened up, 
 I was bent upon going to the Golden Horn myself. 
 I felt that there was to be a great development in 
 trade and permanent business there, and wanted 
 to " get in on the ground floor." But this was not 
 to be, and my destiny detained me at Boston to 
 take my share in the building of fast clippers and 
 in developing the trade from the Atlantic side of 
 the continent. I saw that MacKondray & Co., and 
 Flint, Peabody & Co., who went to California about 
 this time, were making fortunes out of commis- 
 sions. I also saw men go there later to become 
 millionaires in a few years— men like John W. 
 Mackay, the pioneer, who died recently in London, 
 worth somewhere approximating $100,000,000, 
 most of it taken out of the Comstock Lode, the last 
 of the "Big Four"— Mackay, Flood, Fair, and 
 O'Brien— all of whom are dead. But my fortunes 
 led in another direction. I was to go East, and 
 not West. 
 
 In connection with the clipper service to Cali- 
 fornia, I should mention here the beginning of the 
 Irish immigration to this country, which started at 
 
 76 
 
IN A SHIPPING HOUSE IN BOSTON 
 
 the time of the gold-fever. I saw that this coun- 
 try was very sparsely populated, that there were 
 vast areas entirely unoccupied, and that there was 
 not only room, but need, for more people. I also 
 had an eye to increasing our own business, as our 
 ships were returning from Liverpool with very 
 few passengers. In casting about in my mind to 
 create business, it occurred to me that the Irish, 
 who were particularly restive and desirous of 
 coming to America, might be turned into passen- 
 gers for our boats and into settlers of our waste 
 places. 
 
 My first step was to engage the services of as 
 many Irish 'longshoremen and stevedores as pos- 
 sible. These were always talking of their friends 
 in Ireland, and their friends in the old country 
 were asking them for information about the 
 United States. I got the 'longshoremen and steve- 
 dores to scatter throughout Ireland information 
 about this country and about the way to get here. 
 I then set to work to arrange for giving to the 
 poor Irish immigrants a cheap and convenient 
 means of passage. 
 
 I invented the prepaid passenger certificate, 
 and also the small one-pound (English money) 
 bill of exchange. To disseminate information 
 about the plan, I had inserted in the Boston Pilot, 
 the Catholic organ of the day, the following ad- 
 vertisement, it being a letter from the Catholic 
 archbishop : 
 
 77 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 " The Boston and Liverpool Packet Line of 
 Enoch Train & Co. have arranged to issue prepaid 
 passenger certificates and small biUs of exchange 
 for one pound and upward. This firm is highly 
 respectable, and has established agencies through- 
 out Ireland for the benefit of Irish immigrants. — 
 f FiTZPATRiCK, Archbishop of Boston." 
 
 This advertisement, and this indorsement from 
 a high Catholic authority, gave a marked impetus 
 to the flow of Irish immigrants into America. 
 
 78 
 
CHAPTER Vn 
 
 A VACATION TOUK 
 
 1850 
 
 In '50 it was decided that I should go to 
 Liverpool to take charge of the house there. I 
 asked Colonel Train if I could not first have a 
 holiday, so that I might see a little of my own 
 country. He told me to take two months, and to 
 see as much as I could in that time. My ship was 
 scheduled to sail July 25, '50. This was the only 
 holiday I had had in four years. 
 
 I started for New York. After a brief stay 
 there, I went to Cape May. My recollections of 
 that place, which was then the great resort of the 
 Atlantic coast, include a famous score I made in 
 rolling ten-pins. This game was my forte, and I 
 remember that I defeated a party of Philadel- 
 phians, scoring strike after strike, and left my 
 score, 290, marked up on the wall. It stood un- 
 rivaled for years. 
 
 I hurried on to Washington from Cape May. 
 The trip was then made by boat, rail, and stage. 
 As soon as I reached Washington, I called on Dan- 
 
 79 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 iel Webster, then Secretary of State. I was shown 
 into his office, gave him news of New England, 
 and said that every one was discussing his great 
 speech of the 7th of March of that year. He looked 
 at me inquiringly. " Some are hostile toward 
 your sentiments," I said; "but most of the 
 people are with you." " They are talking about 
 it, are they? " This was the only comment he 
 made. 
 
 Afterward he introduced me to his wife, Mrs. 
 Lbroy Webster, and asked if I would like to meet 
 the President. I was delighted, and said so. " Just 
 wait a moment," he said, and sat down at his desk^ 
 took a quill pen and wrote on a sheet of blue paper, 
 nearly a foot square, " To the President of the 
 United States, introducing a young friend of mine 
 from Boston, George Francis Train, shipping 
 merchant, who merely wishes to pay his respects, 
 to the president. — Daniel Webster." The largo 
 writing covered almost the whole page. I thanked 
 him, and started at once for the White House. 
 
 On arriving there, I was at once ushered into 
 the presence of General Taylor, who sat at his 
 desk. The presidential feet rested on another 
 chair. I begged him not to rise, but to let me feel 
 at home, and handed him the letter from Mr. 
 Webster. 
 
 At his request, I seated myself opposite him, 
 and from this point of vantage made a hurried' 
 study of his appearance. He wore a shirt that was 
 
 80 
 
A VACATION TOUR 
 
 formerly white, but whicli then looked like the map 
 of Mexico after the battle of Buena Vista. It was 
 spotted and spattered with tobacco juice. 
 
 Directly behind me, as I was soon made aware, 
 was a cuspidor, toward which the President turned 
 the flow of tobacco juice. I was in mortal terror, 
 but I soon saw there was no danger. "With as un- 
 erring an aim as the famous spitter on the boat 
 in Dickens's American Notes, he never missed the 
 cuspidor once, or put my person in jeopardy. 
 
 My conversation — ^because, I suppose, it was 
 new to him — ^interested him, and he would not let 
 me go for half an hour. I told him the news of 
 New England, and about my journey to Liverpool 
 and its object. This particularly interested him, 
 and he asked me a hundred questions about the 
 shipping business and the prospects of developing 
 trade with England. 
 
 As I was about to leave, I said to him that I 
 prized very highly the letter from Mr. Webster,, 
 and should be very glad to be able to keep it ; " and 
 I should prize it still more highly, Mr. President, 
 if you would add your autograph to it." " Cer- 
 tainly," he replied, and then took up a quill pen, 
 and wrote " Z. Taylor." He courteously asked me 
 to call to see him again before I left for England. 
 
 From the "White House, I went direct to the 
 National Hotel, where I asked to see Mr. Clay. 
 I was shown up to his room, and soon stood in the 
 presence of the great Southern orator. I observed 
 
 81 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 that Ms shirt also bore the same marks as that of 
 the President— stained and smeared with tobacco 
 juice. 
 
 I told him that I was about to start for Eng- 
 land, and that, as I had a letter signed by Mr. 
 Webster and the President, I should like to add his 
 signature also. "I believe that two signatures 
 are usually necessary on Mr. "Webster's paper," 
 said Mr. Clay with a smile. He then added his 
 autograph to the paper. 
 
 Before leaving for Liverpool, I visited Moimt 
 Vernon, of course, while in Washington, saw the 
 Georgetown Convent, and, indeed, everything of 
 interest in the capital at that time. Then I went 
 back to New York and up the Hudson to West 
 Point. 
 
 My visit to West Point was especially pleasant. 
 I comraded with the cadets, who invited me to 
 sleep in their tent on the campus. Among the 
 yoimg fellows there at the time, who was very 
 pleasant and friendly, was Alfred H. Terry, after- 
 ward one of the most distinguished of our ofl&cers. 
 I attended the cadets' ball at Cozzens's Hotel, 
 messed with them, and entered into all of their 
 sports and daily routine. I was astonished to no- 
 tice that in the morning the roar of the gun did not 
 disturb their slumbers, although it shook me from 
 sleep. But the lightest tap of the drum aroused 
 them instantly. It was force of habit, which, I 
 was to learn later, enables men to sleep amid the 
 
 82 
 
A VACATION TOUR 
 
 roar of artillery on the battlefield, or amid the 
 howling of storms on the ocean. In sleep, as in 
 our waking hours, the trained and disciplined mind 
 hears what it wants to hear. 
 
 From "West Point I went on to Saratoga, 
 Springs. It was my first visit to these famous 
 springs, and I enjoyed it immensely. On the boat 
 up the Hudson I met a beautiful lady, Mrs. Carle- 
 ton, who was with her sister. Mrs. Carleton was 
 the wife of a wealthy New York merchant, who 
 had a villa on Staten Island. I stopped at Mar- 
 vin's United States Hotel. This was fifty-two 
 years ago, and the hotel is still there, while Mar- 
 vin, who entertained me more than half a century 
 ago, died last year, his age somewhere in the nine- 
 ties. I enjoyed every moment of my stay at Sara- 
 toga, for I had never seen anything of social life, 
 and it was all new and dehghtful. The enormous 
 caravansary, with its throngs of guests, its never- 
 ceasing round of gaiety, and its own liberal life, 
 entranced me. Manners seemed less formal then 
 at the famous spa, and the ladies were pleased to 
 meet any one in the most unconventional and 
 charming way. 
 
 As I say, I was very unsophisticated. I knew 
 little or nothing of the " great world," and I was 
 completely horrified one evening when one of the 
 ladies said to me in a whisper : " Can you not get 
 me a glass of brandy? " I had never touched a 
 drop of brandy, whisky, or even wine, and to have 
 
 83 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 this beautifully dressed and refined lady ask me 
 for a glass of brandy was a decided shock to me. 
 I understand that now, however, it is not very 
 uncommon for ladies to drink wine, whisky, and 
 brandy. 
 
 I have seen it stated in the papers recently that 
 the waters at Saratoga have the effect of lessening 
 thirst for more ardent waters of a spirituous 
 nature. I did not happen to observe any such 
 effect of the waters when I was there a half cen- 
 tury ago. Drinking was quite general, and cer- 
 tainly little restraint seemed to be practised. 
 
 I found in society, as elsewhere in the greater 
 affairs of life, that leadership was wanting. Peo- 
 ple stood by and waited for some one to take the 
 initiative. One evening one of the ladies said to 
 me that the ball had not been arranged for. I 
 asked what ball, and she said the regular season 
 ball. For some reason, it had not been arranged 
 by the hotel people, and no one seemed disposed 
 to take hold of it. I said, " It should be arranged 
 immediately." I saw a few of the leaders, talked 
 it over with them, and got them together. We 
 brought off the ball — my first experience in these 
 deep waters of social life-^with great success. I 
 had then been in Saratoga just two days. WhUe 
 I was there I had the honor of meeting the social 
 leader of Boston, Mrs. Harrison Grey Otis, and 
 the social leader of Philadelphia, Mrs. Kush. 
 There were also present at the Springs many rep- 
 
 84 
 
A VACATION TOUR 
 
 resentatives of the most prominent families in the 
 social life of New York. 
 
 I saw in Saratoga the first " gambling hell " 
 that I had ever seen, and I was so green about such 
 things — another tribute to my dear old Pickering 
 grandmother and New England Methodism — ^that 
 I did not know what a " gambling hell " was when 
 asked if I should like to see one. While I possess 
 an inquisitive nature, I have found it a good rule 
 not to ask too many questions, until you have tried 
 to find out things without betraying your igno- 
 rance. I went to the "hell," and was properly 
 shocked. The scene suggested to me the gaming 
 at Monte Carlo. I saw a number of men sitting 
 around a table playing as intently as if their lives 
 depended upon the fall of a card. 
 
 My attention was attracted toward a young^ 
 man, apparently of about twenty-five, who was in 
 a desperate plight. Agony was visibly graved in 
 every feature and in every line of his face. I 
 asked who he was, and heard the name of a dis- 
 tinguished family of northern New York. " What 
 is the matter with him? " I asked. My cicerone 
 seemed astonished at my stupendous ignorance. 
 " Why, can you not see they are ' going through ' 
 him? " he said in turn. The expressive term was 
 sufficient even for my unsophisticated mind. It 
 told the whole story, like a " scare-head " in a 
 " yellow " newspaper. 
 
 Then I turned from the victim to the predatory 
 ^ 85 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 players about him. Wlio were they? To my sur- 
 prise, the names were those of men famous the 
 world over as bankers, merchants, and financiers. 
 There was one man that especially interested me. 
 It was the American representative of an English 
 house whose commercial paper our house frequent- 
 ly used. I said to myself, " I will cut his name 
 from our list," and I did — for a time. I learned 
 afterward that banking was only one form of 
 gambling. Great financiers are often clever game- 
 sters — players for desperate stakes, but infinitely 
 better players than their victims. This world of 
 finance is a great Monte Carlo. It was vain to 
 entertain a prejudice against only one of the 
 players. 
 
 It was now necessary for me to hurry back to 
 Boston in order to catch the Parliament, on which 
 I had already engaged passage. But before leav- 
 ing America, I wanted to see something of Canada, 
 and resolved upon a rapid trip to Montreal, espe- 
 cially as I found that I could return to New York 
 that way almost as quickly as to go across the 
 State. I went on to Niagara, and then sailed for 
 Montreal, and had the novel experience of shoot- 
 ing La Chine Rapids, an Indian piloting the boat. 
 This was a great thing in those days, and I was 
 amazed to see how skilfully the Indian guided the 
 boat in and out among the rocks, never doubtful 
 of his course, never touching the edges of the 
 reefs and boulders, never imperiling human life. 
 
 86 
 
A VACATION TOUK 
 
 I understood that for years these pilots had guided 
 the boats down the rapids without a single acci- 
 dent. 
 
 On the boat on which I went down the St. Law- 
 rence I met Captain Stoddard, of the Crescent 
 City Steam Packet, New York and Havana, and 
 Mr. Dinsmore, of the Adams Express Company, 
 with the ladies of their families. "We all saw Mont- 
 real together, and some members of the party 
 made excursions to places elsewhere. One of these 
 was to the famous Grey Nunnery, the doors of 
 which were closed to the outside world. But these 
 Americans, with true American spirit, expected 
 all doors to open to them, and would not accept 
 the situation. 
 
 When they told me of their failure to get into 
 the nunnery, I said I was astonished that the rep- 
 resentative of a big steamboat company and of a 
 big express company could not get into any build- 
 ing they wished to enter. " I will show you what 
 I can do," I said. I had already taken thought of 
 the talismanic letter from Daniel Webster, coun- 
 tersigned by the President and Mr. Clay, the three 
 biggest men, in popular estimation, in the United 
 States at that time. As I shall afterward relate, 
 this letter did me a good turn later in Scotland, 
 opening doors to me that were closed to nearly all 
 the world. It was now to serve me well ; but this 
 was the first time I had found occasion for its 
 service since leaving Washington. 
 
 87 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 I went immediately to the nunnery, where I 
 asked to see the Lady Superior. I told her I had 
 visited the Convent of the Sacred Heart at New 
 York and Georgetown, and that I wanted to see 
 how they compared with this most famous con- 
 vent in Canada. This did not impress her very 
 much, it seemed to me, and I instantly had recourse 
 to my letter. " As you do not know me," I said, 
 " this letter may serve as a sort of introduction." 
 Then I brought out with a flourish my Webster- 
 Taylor-Clay letter. The doors at once flew open 
 before me ! After viewing the interior of the nun- 
 nery, I told the Lady Superior that I had a party 
 of friends at the hotel who would like very much 
 to see the building, and that if she would permit 
 me, I should like to bring them around in the 
 morning. She consented, and the next day I took 
 the entire party to the nunnery and we were shown 
 through by the Lady Superior. 
 
 My time was now running short, and I had to 
 hasten back to New York, if I wanted to catch the 
 Parliament. I went by way of Lake Champlain, 
 Ticonderoga, and Lake George, and again saw 
 something of Saratoga and the Hudson. At Ticon- 
 deroga I had the good fortune to meet Bishop 
 Spencer of Jamaica, and his son-in-law Arch- 
 deacon Smith, and we traveled together to Sara- 
 toga. Here we met Commodore Trescot, of the 
 Bermuda Yacht Club. I invited them all to dine 
 with me at the George Hotel, at Lake Sara- 
 
 88 
 
A VACATION TOUR 
 
 toga. I was struck by the bishop's dress, for it 
 was the first time I had seen the black knicker- 
 bockers and the three-cornered chapeau. I do not 
 mention the dinner — ^which was not a great affair 
 — ^merely for the sake of referring to the knicker- 
 bockers or the chapeau, but because the bishop 
 pressed upon me a special invitation to call upon 
 Mm when I came to London. 
 
 89 
 
CHAPTEE Vin 
 
 A PABTNBR IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 1850-1852 
 
 From Saratoga, I went down the Hudson 
 to New York, and thence to Boston, where I ar- 
 rived in time to take the Parliament, Captain 
 Brown, on the 25th of July. I had lived fast in 
 the eight weeks of my holiday. It was the only 
 vacation I had had since I had begun my business 
 life as a grocer boy in Holmes's store, and I had 
 worked hard during that long period. The result 
 was that I sprang back too far, like the released 
 bow, and was soon to see the effects. As my time 
 was so limited, I had tried to make the most of it, 
 and had rushed from place to place, had lived iu 
 all sorts of hotels and eaten all sorts of food. 
 Besides, the travel, all of which had been in a 
 whirl of excitement, aided in upsetting my phys- 
 ical system. 
 
 A few days on the boat were enough to com- 
 plete the wreck. I was as badly shaken up as Mont 
 Pelee, and was ill for most of the voyage. When 
 I reached Liverpool, I had lost thirty pounds, and 
 
 90 
 
PAKTNER IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 had to be taken off the steamer, and was carried 
 to the house of Mr. Thayer, the Liverpool partner 
 of Colonel Train. It was two or three months be- 
 fore I completely recovered. 
 
 I had hardly reached England before I began 
 to realize that the people there use a somewhat 
 different version of the EngHsh language than we 
 are accustomed to in America. My physician was 
 Dr. Archer. He came to see me one morning just 
 after I had had my breakfast, and took his stand 
 immediately before the fire, with his back to it. 
 , " I am half starved," he said. I immediately rang 
 the bell, and when the servant came turned to 
 the physician and asked what he would have 
 for breakfast. He said he had eaten breakfast 
 and did not want anything more. "But," said 
 I, "you said you were half starved; surely 
 you must be hungry." He burst into a roar of 
 laughter. " I meant that I was half starved with 
 cold." 
 
 With this as a beginning, I began to pick up 
 the vocabulary peculiar to the modem English. 
 My next acquisition was " nasty." I was informed 
 that a rather disagreeable day was a very " nasty " 
 day, and that the weather was simply "beastly." 
 After mastering these three words, which were en- 
 tirely new to me, and adding such words as I could 
 pick up from the daily speech of the men I met, I 
 was soon able to get along in some fashion with the 
 English of England. 
 
 8 91 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 My first British holiday was spent in Scot- 
 land, where I stayed for a week. When I was at 
 Balmoral the Queen happened to be there. Leav- 
 ing Balmoral, I went to Braemar, on the way to 
 Aberdeen. A number of young students were 
 there at the time, and I spent some moments talk- 
 ing with them. Suddenly, there was a tremendous 
 uproar and excitement, and I saw a four-in-hand 
 drive up. The students informed me that it was 
 the Premier, Lord John Eussell, who had just re- 
 turned from an audience with the Queen at Bal- 
 moral. I saw there was a chance for some sport. 
 Turning to the students, with a smile, I said: "I 
 wonder how his lordship knew I had come to 
 Braemar? I hope to have the pleasure of speak- 
 ing with him." 
 
 The students laughed satirically. One of them 
 said: "Look heah, Mr. Train, that sort of thing 
 won't do heah, you know. We don't do things as 
 you do in America." Another suggested that I 
 should not be treated very civilly if I attempted to 
 approach Lord John Eussell. 
 
 For reply, I took out a card and wrote on it: 
 "An American, in the Highlands of Scotland, is 
 delighted to know that he is under the same roof 
 with England's Premier, Lord John Eussell, and, 
 before he goes, would ask the pleasure of speaking 
 with his lordship for a moment." I carefully fold- 
 ed the card in the letter that had been given to 
 me by Mr. Webster, and afterward signed by the 
 
 92 
 
PARTNER IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 President of the United States and Henry Clay, I 
 sent the two in to his lordship. 
 
 In a few minutes the door opened, and the sec- 
 retary of Lord John Russell came in and asked 
 for " Mr. Train." I said I was Mr. Train. " Lord 
 John Russell," replied the secretary, "waits the 
 pleasure of speaking with Mr. Train of Boston." 
 I followed him out of the room, to the amazement 
 of the young students, who didn't do things that 
 way in England. 
 
 His lordship received me with that easy grace 
 and courtesy which I have always observed in Eng- 
 lishmen of high rank. I told him I would not take 
 up any of his time, and that I merely wanted to 
 meet him. He made me talk about the United 
 States, and insisted upon introducing me to his 
 wife. She, also, received me graciously, saying 
 she was " always glad to see Americans." She 
 asked me many questions about this country and 
 especially about Niagara Falls. A half hour 
 passed by before I was aware of the time. I 
 begged pardon for staying so long, and left. 
 
 In my book, Yoimg America Abroad, I have 
 referred to this incident and to the courteous re- 
 ception I met at Braemar. When I had gone 
 around the world, and returned to America, and 
 was at Newport with Colonel Hiram Fuller, in '56, 
 there came to me in the mail one morning a coro- 
 neted note. It was from London, and written by 
 Lady Russell. 
 
 93 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 " It was so kind of you," it said, " to remember 
 us at Braemar, and to send us your Young Amer- 
 ica Abroad, which his lordship and I have read 
 with a great deal of pleasure. When you come 
 to London, come to see us. — Fannie Russell." 
 
 Our Liverpool office was at No. 5 Water Street, 
 George Holt's building. As soon as I was able to 
 look after the company's interests, I went down to 
 the office and took charge. Mr. Thayer returned 
 to Boston, and later to New York. This left me 
 in complete control. At twenty years of age, I 
 was the manager of the great house of Train & 
 Co., in Liverpool. 
 
 I at once began to reorganize things in Liver- 
 pool, and to develop our business. I put on two 
 ships a month between Liverpool and Boston, and 
 arranged the James McHenry line to Philadel- 
 phia, and sent transient ships to New York. We 
 also had what was known as the " triangular line," 
 handlLag cotton and naval stores. 
 
 Liverpool I found to be a great port, but very 
 much belated. It was too conservative, and the old 
 fogies there were quite content to keep up customs 
 that their ancestors had followed without try- 
 ing to improve upon them, or to introduce new 
 and better ones. I set to work to improve every- 
 thing in our business that was susceptible of im- 
 provement. 
 
 I was astonished, the very first day after I 
 reached the office, to learn that nothing was done 
 
 94 
 
PARTNER IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 » 
 at night. The entire twelve hours from six in the 
 afternoon to six the following morning were ab- 
 solutely lost, and this in a business that requires 
 every minute of time in the twenty-four hours. 
 Ships can not be delayed, held at ports for day- 
 light, or laid up while men sleep. The work of 
 loading and unloading must proceed with all de- 
 spatch, if there is to be any profit in handling the 
 business, and ships must be sent on their voyages 
 without loss of valuable time. I had supposed 
 that the English shippers thoroughly understood 
 these simple principles of the business in which 
 they have led the world. 
 
 Our vessels were very expensive, and we could 
 not afford to lose the twelve hours of the night. 
 That much time meant a profit to us, and I deter- 
 mined to utilize it. What was my surprise, when 
 I went to the proper authoritias, to find that we 
 should not be allowed to light up the Liverpool 
 docks at night, or to have fires on them. It was 
 feared that we should bum the structures and 
 destroy the shipping and docks. These dignified 
 gentlemen even laughed at me for suggesting such 
 a foolhardy undertaking. 
 
 I said to myself, there is always one way to 
 reach men, and I will find the way to reach these 
 dignitaries. It occurred to me that I could reach 
 them most surely through a plea for the prosperity 
 of the port. I went at once to the representatives 
 of all the American lines having offices in Liverpool, 
 
 95 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 to organize them into a combined attack on the 
 Liverpool port authorities. I saw Captain Delano 
 of the Albert Gallatin, Captain French of the 
 Henry Clay, Captain West of the Cope Philadel- 
 phia line. Captain Cropper of Charles H. Mar- 
 shall's Black Ball line, Zerega of the Blue Packet 
 line, and others, and we decided upon asking the 
 dock board to give us a hearing. This the board 
 very readily consented to do. 
 
 Prior to this meeting, I went to all the Amer- 
 ican representatives and outlined my plan of cam- 
 paign. This was to say very plainly to the dock 
 board that unless we could have fires and lights 
 on the docks we would take the shipping to other 
 ports. The captains and others were astonished, 
 but they agreed to let me approach the board with 
 this plain threat. 
 
 I then went to the board, with all the repre- 
 sentatives of the American lines, and quietly told 
 the members that we wanted fires and lights on 
 the docks at night, that we needed this in order to 
 carry on our business in our way, and that unless 
 we could have them, we should at once go to other 
 ports. Abandoning a mood of amused laughter, 
 these gentlemen suddenly became very serious. 
 Their hoary customs did not seem so sacred then, 
 and they ended by throwing a complete somer- 
 sault, and granting us full permission to light up 
 the Liverpool docks at night. 
 
 Of course this made a tremendous difference 
 96 
 
PARTNEK m THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 to all of us. We could now load our ships at niglit, 
 thus saving one half of the twenty-four hours, 
 which we had been losing. I understand that the 
 Morgan combination, fifty-two years after this, 
 has again forced concessions from the Liverpool 
 dock board by threatening to take the ships to 
 Southampton. 
 
 Our principal freight from Liverpool at that 
 time consisted of crockery from the Staffordshire 
 potteries, Manchester dry-goods, and iron and 
 steel, and what were known as " chow-chow," or 
 miscellaneous articles. We often had as many as 
 150 consignees in a single cargo. Our principal 
 business connections were the firms of John H. 
 Green & Co. and Forward & Co., who shipped pot- 
 tery; Bailey Brothers & Co., Jevons & Co., A. & 
 S. Henry & Co., Crafts & Stell, Charles Humbers- 
 ton, and John Ireland. Our passenger agent was 
 Daniel P. Mitchell, 18 Waterloo Eoad. 
 
 The first blunder that I made in Liverpool — 
 and the only serious one, I believe — ^was in con- 
 nection with shipping emigrants to the United 
 States. One day a man came into the office and 
 said he was from the estate of the Marquis of 
 Lansdowne, and wanted to contract for the ship- 
 ment of 300 passengers for New York. We soon 
 came to terms, and I chartered the ship President. 
 We charged the Marquis from £3 15s. to £4 a head. 
 I learned afterward that these passengers were 
 poor tenants of his estates. The Marquis of that 
 
 97 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 time was the grandfather of the present Marquis 
 of Lansdowne, Minister of War in the Salisbury; 
 cabinet. 
 
 At that time we had to pay $2 a head for all 
 immigrants entering the country. I had tried to 
 get this changed, through Mr. Webster, but had 
 failed. We had also to give bond that the immi- 
 grants would not become a public charge. It 
 proved a very expensive contract for us, as we 
 had to bring back many of these paupers for the 
 old Marquis to take care of. 
 
 When I left Boston, I had taken a partnership, 
 one sixth interest, in the house of Train & Co. In 
 Liverpool I had twenty-five clerks under me, and 
 at one time had four ships in Victoria Docks. It 
 may be inferred that I conducted the business with 
 some degree of success, as my interest — one sixth 
 — for the first year was $10,000. Next year, when 
 in London, I was invited to a grand reception 
 given by Abbott Lawrence, 138 Piccadilly, who 
 was then United States minister at the court of 
 St. James's. That day I dined with Lord 
 Bishop Spencer of Jamaica, whom I had met in 
 Saratoga, and took Lady Harvey in. This was my 
 acceptance of the invitation he had extended to 
 me in Saratoga. The bishop asked if I was going 
 to the reception of the American minister that 
 night, and, on my saying that I was, asked me to 
 accept a place in his carriage. This I very gladly 
 did, as I had, by this time learned a great deal 
 
 98 
 
PAKTNER IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 about the value of state and ceremony in English 
 life. The sequence will show how this worldly; 
 wisdom served me. 
 
 At the dinner, however, I had had a very nar- 
 row escape. It was the " closest call," as we say in 
 the West, that my temperance Methodist princi- 
 ples ever had. I was asked, as a great mark of 
 distinction, to taste the pet wine of the bishop. 
 The bishop himself acted as chief tempter of my 
 old New England principles. He handed me a 
 glass, saying : " Mr. Train, this is the wine we call 
 the ' cockroach flavor.' I want you to drink some 
 of it with us," and he glanced around his table, at 
 which were seated many titled Englishmen and 
 women. 
 
 What was I to do ? Should I, caught in so dire 
 an emergency, drown my principles in the cup that 
 cheers and inebriates? Was all my Methodism 
 and New England temperance to go down in ship- 
 wreck? The exigency nerved me for the task, and 
 I found a courage sufficient to carry me through. 
 I had never tasted a drop of wine, and I was not 
 going to begin now. I glanced about the room, 
 and slowly raised the glass to my lips. I did not 
 taste the wine, but the other guests thought that I 
 did. "We all know," I said, "that the wine at 
 your lordship's table is the best." This passed 
 without challenge, and, in the ripple of applause, 
 my omission to drink the wine was not observed. 
 
 Later in the evening I went with the bishop 
 99 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 to the American minister's reception, and soon 
 saw how well it was that I was in his lordship's 
 carriage. Had I been in a hired cab, I should have 
 fared badly. I should have had to wait in the long 
 line of these vehicles, while flunkeys called out, in 
 stentorian tones as if to advertise all London of 
 the fact that you were in a hired concern, "Mr. 
 Train's cab 1 " and other flunkeys, down the line, 
 would take up the cry, " Mr. Train's cab I " until 
 one would sink in a fever of chagrin. But as I 
 came in the bishop's carriage, I heard respectful 
 voices announce, " Lord Spencer and Mr. Train," 
 
 I observed several ladies bending over an el- 
 derly gentleman, and soon another lady asked me 
 if I had seen the duke. As there were two or three 
 dukes present, I asked which one. She looked very 
 much surprised, as if there could be more than one 
 duke in the world. " Why, the Duke of Welling- 
 ton 1 " she exclaimed. 
 
 I now took occasion to get a good look at the 
 venerable old man. It was the first time, and 
 proved to be the only time, I ever saw him. He 
 would not have impressed me, I think, had it not 
 been for the light of history which seemed, after 
 I once knew it was he, to illuminate his face and 
 frame. It was the last year of his enjoyment of 
 great renown. He died shortly afterward. 
 
 While in England, I availed myself of every 
 opportunity to see the country, and study it from 
 every possible point of view. I may add that this 
 
 100 
 
PARTNER IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 has been my invariable custom in all countries. 
 I bave gone through the world as an inquirer and 
 an observer of men and things. As I had visited 
 Scotland, I was desirous of seeing another of the 
 islands, Wales, so I ran down into that curious 
 country on a vacation, in 1850. I went to Bangor, 
 on the Menai Straits, and hardly had got into the 
 hotel when a tremendous commotion in the corri- 
 dors told me that some guest of unusual impor- 
 tance had arrived. I asked who it was, and was 
 informed that it was the Duke of Devonshire. 
 
 " That is exceedingly fortunate for me," I said. 
 " There is no man that I would rather see at this 
 moment than the Duke of Devonshire." At this, 
 my companions — among whom were young Grin- 
 nell, of Grinnell, Bowman & Co., whose father sent 
 the Resolute to find Sir John Franklin, young 
 Eussell, and young Jevons, an iron merchant — be- 
 gan laughing immoderately. I wrote on a card 
 that an American, who happened to be at the 
 George Hotel when he arrived, would like to see 
 him, if it would not be too great an intrusion upon 
 Ms time. I added that it had been one of the de- 
 sires of my life to visit his famous estate at Chats- 
 worth. 
 
 This note I sent to the duke by a messenger. 
 Immediately came back a reply that the duke 
 would be very glad to see me, and I was ushered 
 into his presence. He was then an elderly man, 
 his voice tremulous and uncertain. To make it 
 
 101 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 still more difficult to converse with him, he was 
 deaf, but used an ear-trumpet. I succeeded in tell- 
 ing him that his palace at Chatsworth was well 
 known throughout America by reputation, and 
 that I should like very much to see it, while I was 
 in that part of Great Britain. He replied that I 
 must certainly see it before leaving. He then 
 called to his secretary to bring him a blue card, 
 and wrote upon it a pass to enter the grounds and 
 buildings. This was all very kind, and I thanked 
 him for the courtesy. 
 
 He then completely stunned me by saying: 
 " You must see the emperor ! " I knew that the 
 Czar of Russia had been his guest, but it was not 
 likely that he was at Chatsworth at that time; so 
 I endeavored to divine what the duke meant. My 
 mind ran over horses, conservatories, and dogs. 
 
 I could not, for a moment or two, imagine what 
 " the emperor " could be, and was about to com- 
 mit myself irrevocably to a conservatory, a favor- 
 ite horse, or hound ; but before making any remark 
 gave him an appreciative smile which seemed to 
 please his grace. He called for the blue card 
 again, and wrote on it : " Let the emperor play for 
 Mr, Train." I learned afterward that it cost the 
 duke $500 to have "the emperor" play, and so 
 much the more appreciated his courtesy. I re- 
 marked that I had heard " the emperor " referred 
 to as the highest fountain in all Europe. 
 
 As soon as I got back to Liverpool, I made up 
 102 
 
PARTNER IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 a little party to visit Chatsworth. "When we 
 reached the station I was astonished to see almost 
 a regiment of uniformed servants waiting to meet 
 us. I was even more astounded when the head of 
 this body-guard of retainers approached and asked, 
 in the most deferential manner : " "When will your 
 royal highness have luncheon? " I saw, of course, 
 that they were taking me for some one else, and 
 remarked that they were perhaps waiting for the 
 arrival of the Prince of Hesse-Cassel, whom I had 
 just seen at the hotel. The prince came up almost 
 immediately afterward, and had the pleasure of 
 seeing " the emperor " play, by special authority, 
 on my card from the duke. 
 
 The palace is a magnificent residence, so far 
 exceeding anything of the kind in England at that 
 time, that George IV. is said to have felt offended 
 when invited there, because his own residence was 
 shabby in comparison. I made the acquaintance at 
 Chatsworth of Sir Joseph Paxton, who the follow- 
 ing year modeled the entire glass system of the 
 first Crystal Palace at London. I was to see some- 
 thing of the Crystal Palace the next year. 
 
 Six years after this, when I published my book, 
 Young America Abroad, I sent a marked copy to 
 the Duke of Devonshire, and he wrote me a letter 
 in which he said : " I am an old man now, sixty- 
 two, but I have not forgotten the delightful day 
 when I met you on the Menai Straits." 
 
 One day, in my office in Liverpool, I received 
 103 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 a card from the Secretary, inviting me to the 
 exhibition in London, and Mr. Riddle of Boston, 
 who was then on his way to London, asked me to 
 be present on the day when the Queen was to come, 
 which was the day before the opening. I went to 
 London, and that was the first and the only time I 
 ever saw Queen Victoria. She was with Prince 
 Albert, and they were accompanied, I remember, 
 by a brilliant staff. 
 
 I recall an incident during my visit to Lon- 
 don on this occasion which aptly illustrates the 
 want of suggestiveness on the part of Englishmen. 
 They are content to go along in old ruts, provided 
 only they be old enough. Frank Fuller was the 
 contractor for the Crystal Palace, and a problem 
 arose, in the construction, as to what to do with a 
 certain beautiful and aged ehn that had been an 
 object of reverence and stood in the way of the 
 proposed building. It had finally been decided to 
 cut it down, in order to get it out of the way. 
 
 " What ! " said I, " cut it down — ^this exquisite 
 tree ? " Some one remarked that the authorities 
 did not wish to cut it down, but it stood directly ia 
 the way of the great palace, and would have to be 
 sacrificed. " The palace is here for time," I said, 
 " and this tree may be here for eternity. Spare 
 the tree." "But how?" they asked. They were 
 bewildered — did not have a thought of what to do, 
 except to hew down the venerable tree. " Build 
 your palace around it," I said. This simple 
 
 104 
 
PAKTNER m THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 device had not occurred to them, but it saved the 
 ehn. 
 
 Mr. Fuller was so pleased by the suggestion, 
 that he began asking me about hotels in America, 
 and proposed that I undertake the building of an 
 American hotel in London. I said that some time 
 I should, perhaps, try the experiment, but that for 
 the present my shipping business would keep me 
 fully occupied. 
 
 I might as well mention here, although it is not 
 in its chronological order, my later experience in 
 trying to establish an American hotel in London. 
 It was seven years after the exhibition when the 
 question of an American hotel came up again. I 
 had worked up the plan very thoroughly, and had 
 some of the most prominent and influential men 
 in England as directors of the proposed company. 
 "We had, also, obtained options on several acres of 
 desirable land in the Strand as a site. In the 
 board of directors was Lord Bury, private secre- 
 tary of the Queen, son of the Earl of Albemarle ; 
 Mark Lemon, of Punch; and others. The only 
 obstacle to our success was the passage of a bill 
 through Parliament authorizing us to occupy the 
 land. The hotel caused a great sensation in Lon- 
 don, and there was much talk of it as a daring and 
 not altogether agreeable invasion of England by 
 Americans. On the other hand, there was much 
 commendation, and George Augustus Sala, the 
 leading editorial writer of the Telegraph, wrote a 
 
 105 
 
MY LIFE m MAI^ STATES 
 
 letter in which he mentioned my name as a guar- 
 anty that the hotel would be built and would suc- 
 ceed, as, he said, I had succeeded in everything. 
 
 Matters were well advanced, and it looked 
 as if we should have the hotel. I wanted it con- 
 structed along distinctly American lines, and sent 
 to Paran Stevens to get from him the plans of his 
 three hotels, the Kevere House in Boston, the Fifth 
 Avenue Hotel in New York, and the Continental 
 in Philadelphia. We had everything in readiness, 
 when the news came that the bill had failed in the 
 House of Lords by sixteen votes, although the 
 House of Commons had passed it. I came as near 
 as that to building the first American hotel in Lon- 
 don. Fifty years later, the Hotel Cecil was built, 
 a half century after I had suggested the idea and 
 perfected the plan. 
 
 My experience in Saratoga had revealed to me 
 the want of suggestiveness and resource in men in 
 general. They will continue doing the same thing 
 in the same old way generation after generation, 
 without taking thought for improving methods in 
 the interest of economy, of time, and of money. I 
 have, from time to time, suggested a large number 
 of little improvements, mechanical or other de- 
 vices, for which I have never taken out patents or 
 received a cent of profit in any way. I shall bring 
 together here a few of these suggestions, made at 
 different times and in different countries. 
 
 I used to go to the old cider-mill at Piper's, 
 106 
 
PAETNEK IN THE LIVERPOOL HOUSE 
 
 about a half mile from our farm. We went in an 
 ox-cart, filled with apples. When we got to the 
 cider-mill, all we had to do was to pull out a peg, 
 and the apples would roll out into the hopper of 
 the mill. 
 
 When I came to New York years afterward I 
 was astonished to notice that there were a half- 
 dozen men around every coal-cart, unloading the 
 coal. I thought of the ox-cart, the peg, and the 
 hopper, which I had used thirty years before. I 
 suggested the use of a device for letting the coal 
 run from the cart into the cellar, but could not get 
 any one to listen to the proposition. Now, years 
 after my suggestion, all of these carts in New 
 York and other large cities of America have small 
 scoops nmning from the cart to the coal-hole, and 
 a single man imloads the cart by winding a wind- 
 lass and lifting the front end of the wagon. In 
 London they still keep up the old, clumsy, and ex- 
 pensive method of unloading with sacks. The 
 English are in some things where we were a cen- 
 tury ago. 
 
 Once in London I was astonished to see a man, 
 after writing something with a lead-pencil, search 
 through his pockets for a piece of india-rubber 
 with which to erase an error. He had lost it, and 
 could only smudge the paper by marking out what 
 he had written. I said to him: "Why don't you 
 attach the rubber to the pencil? Then you couldn't 
 lose it." He jumped at my suggestion, took out a 
 3 107 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 patent for the rubber attachment to pencils, and 
 made money. 
 
 When Eowland Hill, the great English postal 
 reformer, introduced penny-postage into England, 
 he found it necessary to employ many girls to clip 
 off the stamps from great sheets. I took a sheet 
 of paper to him, and showed him how easy it 
 would be by perforation to tear off the stamps as 
 needed. He adopted my idea; and now a single 
 machine does the whole work. 
 
 I noticed one day in England a lot of "flun- 
 keys " rushing up to the carriages of titled ladies 
 and busying themselves adjusting steps, which 
 were separate from the carriage, and had been 
 taken along with great inconvenience. I said to 
 myself, why not have the steps attached? and I 
 spoke about the idea to others. It was taken up, 
 and carried out. Now every carriage has steps 
 attached as a part of the structure. 
 
 In '50, I was with James McHenry in Liver- 
 pool, and in trying to pour some ink from a bottle 
 into the ink-well, the bottle was upset, and the ink 
 spilled aU over the desk. This was because too 
 much ink came from the mouth. " Give the bottle 
 a nose, like a milk pitcher," I said; " then you can 
 pour the ink into the well easily." Holden, of 
 Liverpool, took up the idea, and patented it, and 
 made a fortune out of it. 
 
 108 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 MY COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE — RETURN TO 
 LIVERPOOL 
 
 1850-1852 
 
 After the first short stay in Saratoga during 
 my vacation trip in America, I had started for a 
 journey West; and was soon to meet with an ex- 
 perience that turned the current of my life. At 
 Syracuse I saw a half dozen students talking to a 
 lovely girl, bidding her good-by. Her appearance 
 struck me in a peculiar way. I turned to Alfredo 
 "Ward, who, with his wife, was traveling with me, 
 they having just come from Valparaiso, Chili. 
 " Look at that girl with the curls," said I. " Do 
 you know her? " he asked. " I never saw her be- 
 fore," I answered, " but she shall be my wife." 
 
 I was quite ready to abandon the remainder of 
 my Western trip, to get an opportunity to meet 
 this girl. Taking my grip up hilrriedly, I rushed 
 over to the train she was on, supposing she was 
 going to New York. I soon discovered that she 
 was going the other way, and ran through in my 
 mind the chances I could take, the risks I could 
 
 109 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 run, and so took an opportxinity by the throat. I 
 knew that I was not compelled to leave Boston un- 
 til July 25, and so I had ample time to get to my 
 ship. 
 
 I entered the car where the girl was, and f oimd 
 a vacant seat opposite her. An elderly gentleman 
 was with her, whom I took to be her father. I 
 selected the seat opposite with the deliberate pur- 
 pose of making the acquaintance of the pair at the 
 first opportunity that occurred or that I could 
 create. 
 
 My chance came sooner than I expected. The 
 elderly gentleman tried to raise the sash of the 
 windo'?(r, and could not move it; it had, as usual, 
 stuck fast. I sprang lightly and very quickly 
 across the aisle and said, "Permit me to assist 
 you," and adding my youthful strength to his, 
 raised the window. Both he and the young lady 
 thanked me. The old gentleman went further and 
 asked me to take the seat directly opposite him 
 and the young lady, on the same side of the car. 
 I did so, and we entered into conversation imme- 
 diately. I continued my speculations as to the 
 relationship that existed between them. The gen- 
 tleman seemed rather elderly for her husband, and 
 she too young to be married at all. He did not look 
 exactly as if he were her father. 
 
 Before I could determine this question for my- 
 self, he came to my assistance, and told me the 
 young lady was the daughter of Colonel George 
 
 110 
 
Mrs George Francis Ti-ain. 
 Froni a ]ilintoi.'raph. 
 
MY COURTSHIP AND MAERIAGE 
 
 T. M. Davis, who was captain and aide-de-camp, 
 under General Scott, in the Mexican War, and 
 afterward chief clerk in the War Department at 
 Washington. He introduced himself as Dr. Wal- 
 lace, and said that he was taking Miss Davis to 
 her home in the West. I also learned that they 
 were going to Oswego, where they would take a 
 boat. I immediately exclaimed that I, also, was 
 going in that direction, and was delighted to know 
 we should be fellow passengers. In such mat- 
 ters — for love is like war — quickness of deci- 
 sion is everything. I would have gone in any 
 direction, if only I could remain her fellow pas- 
 senger. 
 
 And so we arrived at Niagara Falls together. 
 Dr. Wallace was kind enough to permit me to es- 
 cort his charge about the Falls, and I was foolish 
 enough to do several risky things, in a sort of half- 
 conscious desire to appear brave — the last infir- 
 mity of the mind of a lover. I went under the Falls 
 and clambered about in all sorts of dangerous 
 places, in an intoxication of love. It was the same 
 old story, only with the difference that our love 
 was mutually discovered and confessed amid the 
 roaring accompaniment of the great cataract. We 
 were at the Falls forty-eight hours, and before we 
 left we were betrothed. 
 
 Soon afterward I sailed for London, as already 
 set forth. It was not till '51 that I came back to 
 America, principally for the purpose of marry- 
 Ill 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 ing Miss Davis and taking her back to England 
 with me. 
 
 I arrived in Boston shortly before the celebra- 
 tion of Bunker Hill Day, which was always a great 
 occasion in that city. General John S. Tyler was 
 grand-marshal of the day, and he appointed me 
 one of his aides. It was a time when yoimg people 
 were usually left out of all public business ar- 
 rangements. Only the middle-aged or old took 
 part in anything of the spectacular nature in this 
 great parade. Probably I attracted a great deal 
 of attention, therefore, because of my youth, being 
 then only twenty-one. 
 
 In truth, I felt a little flattered by the appoint- 
 ment, and determined to make as good a show as 
 possible. Having been bom and reared on a farm, 
 I knew how to ride, so I got the stableman to give 
 me the finest stepper he could furnish. He found 
 a beautiful animal, with a frolicsome spirit, and 
 I felt that I should prove at least a good part of 
 the exhibition. I was decked in a flowing red, 
 white, and blue sash that swept below the saddle- 
 girths, and my horse was a proud-looking and 
 dainty-paced beast. With a little rehearsing of my 
 part, I was fully prepared. 
 
 On the occasion of the parade, I am quite sure, 
 I was the observed of many observers. The spec- 
 tators were let into the mystery of the beautiful 
 caracoling and dancing of my horse, whom I 
 touched occasionally with the spur in a particular 
 
 112 
 
MY COUKTSHIP AND MAEKIAGE 
 
 way, and who acquitted himself with great credit. 
 The populace thought he was trying to unseat me, 
 or to run away, and that it was only hy excellent 
 horsemanship that I was ahle to hold my seat and 
 look like a centaur. I am ashamed to say, at thia 
 far distance in retrospect, that it was a proud mo- 
 ment for me, and that I took so much pleasure in 
 so idle and empty a show. But youth must be 
 served. 
 
 I had charge of the Colonial Governors, who 
 were the guests of the city, and of the President, 
 and I escorted them from Boston to Charlestown. 
 There were Sir John A. MacDonald, of Canada; 
 Governor Tilly, of New Brunswick; the Honor- 
 able Joseph Howe, ex-Governor of Nova Scotia; 
 and Millard Fillmore, President of the United 
 States. President Fillmore and Sir John Mac- 
 Donald rode on the back seat of the first carriage, 
 and Howe and Tilly on the front seat. Somehow, 
 Boston seemed to regard the colonial oflScials as 
 equal to, if not a little better than the President. 
 I suppose this was because of the sentiment of 
 Bunker Hill, and because the presence of British 
 representatives was a matter of pride and gratifi- 
 cation. 
 
 But the day was to end in gloom. As I was in 
 the midst of the gaiety and at the height of my 
 exultation, a messenger handed me a despatch. I 
 tore it open, and found that it was from a friend in 
 Louisville, Ky., and contained a warning. Miss 
 
 113 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 Davis, to whom I was betrothed, lived in Louis- 
 ville, and I was soon to marry her there. The 
 telegram urged me to hasten my journey, as the 
 report of the coming marriage had created a great 
 deal of bad feeling. My friend advised me to lay 
 aside everything and go to Louisville with all pos- 
 sible despatch. 
 
 I could not imagine, at first, what this meant. 
 It seemed to convey only some presage of dis- 
 aster. I left the gay scenes of the parade and hur- 
 ried to my room at the hotel. There I made in- 
 stant preparation for a trip to Louisville. 
 
 Before leaving Boston, however, I learned 
 what it was that had caused my friend in Louis- 
 ville so much concern. Some time before, there 
 had been a marriage of a Kentucky girl with a 
 Northerner — the much-talked of wedding of Bige- 
 low Lawrence and Miss Sallie Ward. It had 
 aroused a great deal of bitter feeling, because of 
 the increasing tension and friction between the 
 North and the South. This was none of my 
 affair; nor did I share the feeling on either side. 
 Indeed, at that time, I knew httle and cared less 
 about the sectional differences between the North 
 and South. The only interest I had in the South 
 at that time was a commercial one in our shipping 
 business, and the more personal interest attaching 
 to that portion of the South that held my future 
 wife. 
 
 My own approaching marriage to Miss Davis 
 114 
 
MY COUKTSHIP AND MAREIAGE 
 
 had, it seems, been regarded as of sufficient im- 
 portance to arouse the same feeling that had been 
 created by the Lawrence- Ward marriage. My 
 friends were manifesting much solicitude. What 
 most alarmed them was the fact that a number of 
 gallant Kentuckians were trying to marry Miss 
 Davis themselves, and thus patriotically save her 
 for the South. Among these patriots were Sen- 
 ator James Shields, Mexican hero of Belleville, 
 111., Lieutenant Merriman of the navy, and an 
 officer of the army. There was, also, a suitor 
 from my side of the line — "Ned" Baker, of 
 Springfield, 111., who was afterward United States 
 consul-general at Montevideo. In her letters 
 to me she had mentioned all of these gentle- 
 men, but I was not particularly anxious about the 
 matter, feeling that there was safety in numbers. 
 But now that my friends were interesting them- 
 selves, I thought it full time that I should be look- 
 ing after affairs myself. 
 
 I was doomed to suffer from the inconsistency 
 of woman. When I reached Louisville I wrote to 
 her, mentioning the reports sent me by friends. 
 This angered her. She became indignant because 
 I had taken any notice of these rumors, and re- 
 fused to see me on that day. But on the following 
 day she was in a milder mood, ready to see me. 
 This meeting put to rest forever all doubts, suspi- 
 cions, and jealousies, and my fears melted into 
 thin air. 
 
 115 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 But for all this, I was determined to take no 
 further chances with three or four rivals, and de- 
 cided that I should not again leave my affianced 
 bride behind me. I insisted upon an immediate 
 ceremony, and we were married by the rector of 
 the Episcopal church in Louisville, October 5, 
 '51. Her father, Colonel George T. M. Davis, 
 was then editor of Haldeman's Louisville Courier. 
 Belle Key, the famous Kentucky beauty, whose 
 sister, Annie Key, married Matthew Ward, who 
 killed a KentucMan in a duel, was my wife's 
 bridesmaid, and Sylvanus J. Macey, son of Wil- 
 liam H. Macey, was groomsman. My wife was 
 only seventeen years old. She was very beautiful. 
 Her picture appeared in the Book of Beauty the 
 following year. 
 
 We came east from Louisville on our wedding 
 journey, stopping at Cincinnati, where I had a 
 curious experience. The Burnett House was the 
 most popular hotel in the city at that time, and 
 we stayed there. It had just fitted up the first 
 "bridal chamber" in this country, if not in the 
 world. Every little hotel has one now; but then 
 such a thing was unheard of, so far as I have been 
 able to ascertain. At any rate, Mr. Drake, the 
 clerk, asked me if I did not wish to take the " bri- 
 dal chamber." He told me it was the only one in 
 the world. As I was ever keen and ready for a 
 novelty, I replied that of course I would. 
 
 I had already been in a great many hotels in 
 116 
 
MY COURTSHIP AND MAERIAGE 
 
 this country. The prevailing rate of charge was 
 about $2 a day, at that time. I supposed that this 
 splendid room would cost a little more, being a 
 special apartment — perhaps about $5 a day. It 
 cost $15 ! But I was willing to pay for the honor 
 of occupying the first "bridal chamber" in the 
 world. 
 
 From Cincinnati, we came directly on to Bos- 
 ton, and stayed at the Winthrop House, where I 
 had been before. I soon had a conference with 
 the Boston house which I represented, and it was 
 determined that I should return to Liverpool and 
 resume charge of the branch there, but in some- 
 what different and better circumstances. I re- 
 turned in '52. The ship we sailed on was the 
 Daniel Webster, built by Donald Mackay in East 
 Boston, and which I had named in special honor 
 of my friend, the great Daniel. Captain Howard 
 was in command. 
 
 The trip was destined to be eventful. Five 
 days after leaving Boston we ran into a heavy 
 gale from the west. Our boat was very sturdy, 
 and we had no fears, but I knew that many smaller 
 and less seaworthy ships would suffer in such a 
 driving storm. We were, therefore, on the look- 
 out for vessels in distress. 
 
 For the greater part of the time, during the 
 height of the gale, I stood on the bridge close- 
 ly scanning the horizon line in front. Suddenly 
 something seemed to rise and assume form out 
 
 117 
 
MY LIFE IN MAI!fY STATES 
 
 of the storm-wrack, and this gradually grew into 
 the shape of a vessel. I saw that it was a wreck, 
 shouted to the captain, but he, looking in the di- 
 rection, could make out nothing. My eyes seemed 
 to be better than his, although his had been trained 
 by long practise at sea. He could not see much 
 better when he got his glasses turned in the direc- 
 tion I indicated, but finally he discovered the ves- 
 sel, though he did not seem desirous of leaving his 
 present course to offer assistance. 
 
 I insisted that we should go to the rescue of 
 the ship and her crew, and he turned and said: 
 " Mr. Train, we sea captains are prevented from 
 going to the rescue of vessels, or from leaving our 
 course, by the insurance companies. We should 
 forfeit our policy in the event of being lost or 
 damaged." 
 
 "Let me decide that," said I. "We can not 
 do otherwise than go to the assistance of these 
 persons." And we went. The Webster bore 
 swiftly down upon the wreck, which proved to be 
 in worse plight than I had imagined. She was 
 buffeted about by the waves, and seemed in peril 
 of going down at any moment. Men and women 
 were clinging to her rigging, hanging over her 
 sides, and trying to get spars and timbers on which 
 to entrust themselves to the sea. The doomed 
 vessel was the Unicorn, from an Irish port, bound 
 for St. John's, N. B., with passengers and railway 
 iron. This iron had been the cause of the wreck, 
 
 118 
 
MY COURTSHIP AND MAERIAGE 
 
 for in the rough weather it had broken away from 
 its fastenings, or " shipped," as the sailors express 
 it, and had broken holes in the sides of the boat 
 and overweighted it on one side. 
 
 A brig that had sighted the TJnicom before we 
 came np had taken off a few of the passengers — 
 as many as it could accommodate. The Unicorn 
 was a small vessel, and there seemed little chance 
 for the rest of the passengers unless we could 
 reach them. The sea was running very swift and 
 high, and it was not possible to bring the Webster 
 close to the side of the Unicom. To make matters 
 worse, the sailors had found that there was whisky 
 in the cargo, and in their desperation, drank it 
 without restraint. They were, consequently, un- 
 manageable. They could not help us to assist the 
 miserable passengers on their own boat. 
 
 There was nothing else to be done except to 
 get into our small boats and try to save as many 
 passengers as possible. The captain got into one 
 boat and I into another, and we were rowed to the 
 side of the Unicorn. There we discovered that 
 many had already perished. Dead bodies were 
 floating in the sea about the ship. We tried to get 
 up close enough to reach the passengers, but found 
 it impossible. 
 
 " Throw the passengers into the sea," I shout- 
 ed to the captain of the Unicom, " and we will pick 
 them up. We can't get up to you." In this way, 
 the crew of the Unicorn throwing men and women 
 
 119 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 into the sea, and our boats picking them up, we 
 succeeded in saving two hundred. All the rest — ^I 
 do not know how many — ^were drowned. We final- 
 ly got these two hundred persons safely on board 
 the Daniel Webster. 
 
 Here we discovered other difficulties, and it 
 seemed, for a time, as if starvation might do the 
 work that had been denied to the Waves. There 
 was, also, the question of accommodations ; but we 
 solved this problem by taking some of our extra 
 sails and tarpaulin and rigging up a protection for 
 them on the deck and in the hold, so that we made 
 them all fairly comfortable. The problem of food 
 was far more difficult. We simply had no food, 
 the captain said. There was hardly more than 
 enough for the crew and passengers of our own 
 vessel, as the delay caused by the rescue and the 
 departure from our course had made an extra de- 
 mand upon supplies. 
 
 Here a happy thought occurred to me. We 
 happened to be carrying a cargo of corn-meal. I 
 had heard that the Irish, in one of their famines, 
 had been fed with corn-meal, learning to eat and 
 even to like it. 
 
 " Ojjen the hatches ! " I cried, with the enthu- 
 siasm of the philosopher who cried "Eureka." 
 The problem of food was soon solved. Two 6t the 
 barrels were cut in half, making four tubs. From 
 the staves of other barrels we made spoons, and 
 from the meal we made mush which the half- 
 
 !120 
 
MY COURTSHIP AND MAEEIAGE 
 
 starved men, -women, and children ate with great 
 relish. They lived on it until we got them safely 
 landed on English soil, the entire two himdred 
 persons reaching port without the loss of a single 
 soul. 
 
 This was my first service at a rescue, and, of 
 course, I was proud of it. Captain Howard re- 
 ceived a handsome medal from the Life Saving 
 Society of England, and the incident greatly in- 
 creased the reputation of our packets. 
 
 On arriving at Liverpool, we went to No. 153 
 Duke Street, a house then kept by Mrs. Blodgett, 
 whose husband saw service as consul in Spain. 
 This house was at that time the favorite resort of 
 American sea captains and shipping men, and was 
 a sort of central point for all Americans in Liver- 
 pool. John Alfred Marsh, who had been with us 
 in Boston, was with me in Liverpool at this time, 
 in the branch of our house there; and I think he 
 is the only man living among all of my friends of 
 that year. He is now connected with the Guion 
 Line steamships. 
 
 During the first year in Liverpool after my 
 marriage, I had a peculiar and interesting expe- 
 rience with the science of phrenology. At that 
 time every one was talking about its "revela- 
 tions," and I became somewhat interested in it. 
 My interest came chiefly, however, through James 
 McHenry, whose line of ships to Philadelphia I 
 had charge of. He suggested one day that I go 
 
 121 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 to a phrenologist, saying that I had a most curi- 
 ous head. Up to this time, I had not taken any- 
 stock in the science, which I set down as charla- 
 tanry and moimtehankism. But he insisted, and 
 finally I consented to go with him to Bridges, then 
 the most famous phrenologist in Liverpool or in 
 the west of England. 
 
 Bridges astonished me so greatly by telling me 
 things about myself that I had supposed no one 
 knew but I, that my interest was awakened. 
 Still I thought there must be something queer 
 about the thing, and I accused McHenry of having 
 told Bridges something about me beforehand so 
 that I might be taken by surprise. McHenry so 
 vehemently denied this that I knew he was telling 
 me the truth. There was nothing to do but to 
 accept the " chart " of Bridges as being at least 
 sincere. 
 
 As I like to investigate everything for myself, 
 I determined to see what there was in phrenology, 
 and to have my head examined in circumstances 
 where there could be no question that the phre- 
 nologist had had any information about me. So 
 I went to London, and there consulted a still 
 more famous phrenologist, the octogenarian Dono- 
 van. I said to him: "Mr. Donovan, I want you 
 to tell me the plain truth about my head." " Phre- 
 nology does not lie," he said. "Put down your 
 guinea." 
 
 I put down the guinea, and submitted to an ex- 
 122 
 
MY COURTSHIP AND MAREIAGE 
 
 amination. He told me almost the same things 
 that Bridges had said, and thus confirmed the first 
 chart of my head. After finishing his examination, 
 Donovan looked at me and said: "You will be 
 either a great reformer, or a great pirate. It 
 merely depends upon the direction you take in 
 Ethics ! " 
 
 Even this examination did not entirely satisfy 
 me. There were still higher authorities in phre- 
 nology, and I felt that I should not be satisfied until 
 I had the verdict of the highest court of appeals. 
 I consulted every phrenologist I could reach — a 
 great professor in Paris, another from Germany, 
 and finally, I reached the highest authority then 
 living, the highest that has ever lived, possibly, 
 the great Dr. Fowler, who was then lecturing in 
 England. 
 
 He came to Liverpool to lecture, and I went to 
 hear him. Fowler asked for some one from the 
 audience to allow him to examine his head. As he 
 had never seen me, I felt that I could in this way 
 get an absolutely impartial and unprejudiced read- 
 ing. I went on the stage, and my appearance 
 caused a ripple of surprise, for I was known in 
 Liverpool. The phrenologist placed his hands on 
 my head and exclaimed : " Jehu, what a head ! " 
 The audience applauded, as if they thought I had 
 a head, and had used it to good purpose in their 
 city. 
 
 Beverley Tucker was American consul in Liv- 
 10 123 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 erpool at that time, having been appointed by 
 President Pierce. When the famous actor and 
 dramatist, John Brougham, visited Liverpool, I 
 suggested that we Americans, in whose country 
 Brougham had lived and done his best work, 
 should entertain him at a dinner at the Waterloo 
 House. We had a large and lively company pres- 
 ent, and Brougham was in his best vein. I asked 
 Brougham for his autograph, and, at the same 
 time, something about the poet Willis, who was 
 then our favorite American poet. He gave me 
 instantly, without apparent thought, the following 
 verse : 
 
 "Hyperion curls his forehead on, 
 Behold the poet Willis 1 
 For love of such a Corydon, 
 Who would not be a Phyllis 8 " 
 
 Thus have I narrated, in this and the previous 
 chapters, the most interesting events and expe- 
 riences of my life in Liverpool. The life there 
 was particularly varied and altogether delightful. 
 It was, of course, a very busy time, but I managed 
 to get a great deal of pleasure out of it. There 
 was a constant round of entertainments, and the 
 social life of the city was generally gay and in- 
 teresting. At this period I had two portraits of 
 my wife and myself made. They are now in the 
 possession of my daughter, who keeps them in the 
 room which she always has ready for me in the 
 country. 
 
 124 
 
MY COUETSHIP AND MAEEIAGE 
 
 As for my standing in the city, I may give here 
 the opinion of Charles Mackay, the poet, author 
 of Cheer, Boys, Cheer, and other well-known 
 poems, who wrote, in reviewing my book, Young 
 America in Wall Street, that I "walked up the 
 Liverpool Exchange like a Baring or a Eoths- 
 child." I remained in Liverpool one year with my 
 wife, and then returned to the United States. 
 This was in '52. The best men of Liverpool had 
 made me welcome everywhere, in all circles of 
 business or of society. 
 
 125 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTRALIA 
 1853-1855 
 
 My wife and I in returning to Boston came on 
 a visit that we expected to be brief. I confidently 
 supposed I should go back to Liverpool and con- 
 tinue the business of the branch house. But this 
 was not to be. Instead, I was soon to make a far 
 wider departure in business fields and methods, 
 and to try my fortune at another end of the earth. 
 
 When I arrived in Boston, I had a conference 
 with Colonel Train about conditions in England, 
 and suggested to him that I should have a part- 
 nership interest in the Boston house, as well as in 
 the house in Liverpool. To my surprise. Colonel 
 Train was not only astonished, but indignant. He 
 could not understand how I had pushed ahead so 
 rapidly, and this swift advance was by no means 
 pleasant to him. He felt that, in some way, I was 
 pushing him out of his place. 
 
 "Would you ride over me roughshod?" he 
 asked, almost fiercely, when I ventured to suggest 
 a larger partnership interest. I replied that I 
 
 126 
 
BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTEALIA 
 
 thought I had given full value for everything that 
 the house had done for me, and that I should be 
 able to do so in the future. After some further 
 discussion, in which the old gentleman was molli- 
 fied, the matter was arranged. I received a part- 
 nership interest that was equal to $15,000 a year — 
 and I was only twenty-two years old at the time. 
 
 As soon as the contract was signed, and it was 
 in my hand, I said — because I was still nettled by 
 the manner in which he had received my sugges- 
 tion of a partnership — " Colonel, as you do not 
 seem to care to take me into the firm, here is your 
 contract " ; and I tore it in two and handed him 
 the pieces. " I am going to Australia." 
 
 This cool announcement astonished him. He 
 did not know what to do. Finally, we came to 
 terms. It was decided that I should go to Mel- 
 bourne to start my own house with Captain Cald- 
 well, one of our oldest ship-captains, the house 
 to be known as " Caldwell, Train & Co." It was 
 Colonel Train's view that this elderly man would 
 act as a check upon my youthful rashness, he hav- 
 ing no interest in the firm but good-wiU toward 
 me and one of his captains. 
 
 The arrangements once completed, I was eager 
 to be about my work in the antipodes, and pre- 
 pared to sail at the first opportunity. Everything 
 was taken from Boston — clerks, sets of books, 
 business forms, etc. Nothing was left to the 
 chance of finding or getting in Australia the ma- 
 
 127 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 terial that we miglit need. And so the new house 
 of " Caldwell, Train & Co." sailed away from Bos- 
 ton on the Plymouth Eock for Melbourne, Austra- 
 lia, on a singularly audacious venture. 
 
 Captain Caldwell went out in charge of the 
 clerks, while I was to go by a different route a 
 little later. I went to New York and took passage 
 from there in the old Whitlock Havre packet, Ba- 
 varia, Captain Bailey. I had two clerks with me, 
 and carried, also, a large amount of office supplies 
 in duplicate. Dimcan, Sherman & Co. had ap- 
 pointed me their agent for the purchase of gold in 
 Melbourne, which was to be shipped to London or 
 New York as circumstances permitted, and I had 
 also been appointed by the Boston underwriters 
 their agent to represent them in the South Seas. 
 The outlook for business seemed especially bright. 
 
 I have traveled a great deal since that time, but 
 this was the longest period I have ever been on 
 a ship in a single voyage. We were ninety-two 
 days from New York to Melbourne. I have twice 
 since gone entirely around the world in less time. 
 It was very dreary at times, and I had to resort 
 to all manner of things in order to pass the hours. 
 These attempted diversions were often very 
 amusing. 
 
 I have always wanted to do things a little dif- 
 ferently from others, partly because it has been 
 more interesting to do them in a novel manner, but 
 chiefly because I have found that a better way than 
 
 128 
 
BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTKALIA 
 
 the accepted one could be found. My desire for 
 novelty led me to do some curious things during 
 this long and tedious voyage to Melbourne. One 
 day I was looking at the porpoises playing about 
 the ship's bows, and it occurred to me that I could 
 harpoon one of them. I asked the captain if he 
 had a harpoon, and he brought me one. I then had 
 a rope tied fast about me, so that I could be low- 
 ered over the bow. I had a good chance and let 
 fly the harpoon, and, as luck would have it, suc- 
 ceeded in getting a fine porpoise. My successful 
 throw astonished every one — myself more than 
 any. The porpoise was brought aboard, and we 
 found portions of it very good eating. 
 
 On another day I hooked a shark, a "man- 
 eater," ten feet long, and this, also, was brought 
 aboard, but no one proposed to eat it. A little 
 later we passed into the zone of the albatrosses, 
 and myriads of these exquisite birds flew over or 
 hovered above the ship. I was desirous to have 
 one of them, and resorted to stratagems learned 
 years ago in the days when I used to snare rab- 
 bits and net pigeons on the old farm in New Eng- 
 land. I baited a hook with pork, and threw it out 
 upon the water. Instantly a great albatross 
 swooped down upon it and swallowed the bait. I 
 drew the bird on board, and found it a magnificent 
 specimen, measuring twelve feet from tip to tip 
 of its wings. Of course, I released the bird very 
 soon. In such pastimes, we beguiled the time, un- 
 
 129 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 til we finally swept through the great South Seas 
 and into Hobson's Bay, passed Point Nepean, and 
 anchored off Sandridge. 
 
 I had fancied that Melbourne was not a fre- 
 quented port, off the tracks of commerce, although 
 springing into life and prominence. Imagine my 
 surprise when, on rounding the point where one 
 could sweep the expanse of the bay, I saw before 
 me some six hundred vessels that had reached the 
 port before we arrived, and all, like ourselves, at- 
 tracted there by the rumors of gold, gold, gold! 
 For a second time within a few years, the whole 
 world had gone wild over a gold discovery, and 
 was now sending thousands of persons to Austra- 
 lia. Thousands more were deterred from going 
 only by the fear of starvation, for very few be- 
 lieved at that time that Australia could feed the 
 hungry searchers after gold, much less give them 
 a fortune in gold nuggets. 
 
 Before I left Boston I had heard much about 
 the perils of starvation in Australia. I was told 
 that the country produced little, and that its scant 
 resources would soon be overtaxed by the horde 
 of gold-seekers. " Starve ! " I said ; " why there 
 are twenty million sheep in the island." I was 
 then told that man could not live by mutton alone. 
 But I knew that, with these millions of sheep, 
 there was little danger of famine. 
 
 From the anchorage at Sandridge to Melbourne 
 the distance is about ten miles, the Yarra-Yarra 
 
 130 
 
BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTEALIA 
 
 winding and twisting through the tortuous chan- 
 nel. As this river is too shallow to admit ships 
 of a greater burden than sixty tons, all large ves- 
 sels anchor at Sandridge, or Williamstown. While 
 the distance up the Yarra-Yarra is ten miles, 
 across the spit of sand it is only two. I went into 
 Melbourne at once, secured buildings for our 
 cargo, and arranged for lighters to take it up the 
 Yarra-Yarra. 
 
 The very first thing that impressed me in Aus- 
 tralia was the miserable and unnecessary incon- 
 venience of having to send everything up the 
 twisted channel of the Yarra-Yarra by lighters. I 
 determined to look into this and see what could be 
 done. The method was too expensive and too slow 
 to suit me. I immediately called on the most in- 
 fluential men of the city, like De Graves, Octavius 
 Brown, Dalgetty, Cruikshank & Co., and James 
 Henty, and said to them : " This thing of coming 
 by way of the Yarra-Yarra, ten miles, when it is 
 only two miles by land, is out of the question. Let 
 us build a railway to Sandridge." 
 
 Apparently, this had not occurred to them. 
 They had brought from England their habits of 
 thought, and accepted things as they found 
 them. But I kept at the railway suggestion, until 
 the line was buUt. This was my first experience in 
 organizing railways. It was not my last. 
 
 I also found that it was not possible to get suit- 
 able accommodations in Melbourne for business. 
 
 131 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 There was no building there that was large 
 enough. In order to get one sufficiently commo- 
 dious, I had to build it. Accordingly, we put up 
 at the corner of Flinders and Elizabeth Streets, 
 opposite the railway station, the biggest structure 
 in the city. It cost a pretty penny. The building 
 was 140 feet deep, 40 feet wide and three stories 
 high. The date, " 1854," was cut in stone at the 
 top. The edifice cost $60,000. I imported iron 
 shutters from England to make it fireproof. 
 
 It was also necessary to have a building at 
 Sandridge, a warehouse in which to store our 
 goods until they were needed in Melbourne, or 
 until they were shipped for America or Europe. 
 In putting up this building, I resolved to make an 
 experiment. This was to have the building made 
 in Boston, and shipped out to me to be erected at 
 Sandridge, thousands of miles away. If success- 
 ful, the warehouse would cost much less and would 
 be of better material and in better style than any- 
 thing I could get in Australia. It reached Sand- 
 ridge all right and was put up at the end of 
 the little line of railway, at a cost of $25,000. It 
 was 60 feet deep by 40 feet wide, and six stories 
 high. 
 
 With a warehouse at each end of the line, with 
 all the business credit that I could wish, and with 
 the best connections in the world, we were pre- 
 pared to do a big business in Melbourne. How 
 far we succeeded may be inferred from the fact 
 
 132 
 
BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTRALIA 
 
 that my commissions the first year amounted to 
 $95,000. 
 
 Melbourne was a small but promising city. It 
 had some 20,000 population at the time of the gold- 
 fever, and had grown tremendously in the last two 
 or three years, so that, in '54, it must have had 
 something like 30,000 or 40,000 inhabitants. It 
 was, of course, a frontier town, crude and raw, 
 with few of the advantages of civilization. The 
 people were too busy with their search for gold 
 and profits to think much of the conveniences or 
 luxuries of life. The only good hotel, for instance, 
 was the Squatters' Hotel, at Port Philip. There 
 was not even a merchants' exchange, although one 
 was greatly needed. The merchants had simply 
 never heard of such a thing. I arranged with 
 Salmi Morse, who afterward tried to introduce 
 the Passion Play in this country, to assist him in 
 putting up a buildiug that could be used for a 
 hotel, theater, and mercantile exchange. The 
 hotel was the Criterion, and we had a hall in the 
 building for the exchange. The latter was the 
 means of bringing together ship captains, mer- 
 chants, agents, and business men generally, and a 
 great stimulus was given to business. 
 
 I was able to introduce into Australia a great 
 many articles and ideas from America. I brought 
 over from Boston a lot of " Concord " wagons, of 
 the same type as the one that "Ben" HoUiday 
 drove across the continent, and I told Freeman 
 
 133 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Cobb, who was then with Adams & Co., that I 
 wanted him to start a line of coaches between 
 Melbourne and the gold-mines, a distance of about 
 sixty miles. I advanced the money for the enter- 
 prise, and a line was established, the first ia Aus- 
 tralia, to Geelong, Ballarat, Bendigo, and Castle 
 Maine. These were the first coaches seen in that 
 continent. The coaches cost in Australia $3,000 
 apiece. 
 
 I had a chaise brought from Boston for my 
 own use. It was so light in comparison with the 
 great, heavy, lumbering vehicles that were in use 
 in all English countries, that the people there said 
 it would break down immediately. They had not 
 heard of Holmes's "Wonderful One-horse Shay 
 that ran a hundred years to a day," and did not, 
 of course, know the toughness of all "Yankee" 
 things. It didn't break down, and its lightness 
 and general serviceableness made it a big adver- 
 tisement of American goods. People urged me to 
 import a great many vehicles from America. 
 Every ship brought out wagons of the Concord 
 make, chaises, and vehicles of all sorts. Our car- 
 riages and buggies attracted much attention. 
 They were the first vehicles of the sort that had 
 ever been seen in the country. I sold these at a 
 great profit. 
 
 A great disappointment and loss occurred, 
 however, through the carelessness of the Amer- 
 ican shippers, on one occasion. They had sent a 
 
 134 
 
BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTRALIA 
 
 cargo of carriages, and I was certain of a large 
 profit on the shipment. What was my surprise 
 and horror, on the arrival of the cargo, to discover 
 that the stupid shippers had sent only the tops 
 of the carriages ! The bodies of the vehicles had 
 actually been shipped to San Francisco ! 
 
 A thing that greatly surprised me, in a land 
 of Englishmen, Scotchmen, and Irishmen, was that 
 there were no sports in Australia. It seems more 
 strange now, after Kipling's fierce denunciation 
 of the " padded fools at the wickets and the mud- 
 died oafs at the goal." As I had always been fond 
 of outdoor sport, I at once introduced bowling and 
 ten-pins, opened an alley and organized a club 
 which was composed of Australian bankers — Man- 
 ager Blackwood of the Union Bank, Mac Arthur of 
 the Bank of Australia, Badcock of the Bank of 
 New South "Wales, Bramhall of the London Char- 
 tered Bank, O'Shaughnessy of the Bank of Aus- 
 tralasia, and Mathieson of the Bank of Victoria. I 
 mention these names here merely for convenience, 
 and to bring together some of the men with whom 
 I was associated in social and in business life in 
 Melbourne. They represented some $200,000,000 
 of capital. MacArthur had a beautiful bungalow 
 four miles out of Melbourne, where he invited me 
 to shoot. 
 
 I found living at a hotel very dreary and very 
 inconvenient, and decided to have a home of my 
 own. So I got a two-story house at CoUingwood, 
 
 135 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 near the residence of Governor Latrobe, just out 
 of the city. Here I accommodated my clerks, also. 
 I took the stewardess, Undine, and the steward 
 from one of our ships, and was able to set up quite 
 an establishment. The United States consul, J. 
 M. Tarleton, and his wife, lived with us for a time. 
 
 After I had been in Melbourne nearly a year 
 I was guilty of a small piece of patriotism that 
 has ever since seemed very amusing to me. I had 
 been reared in the belief that every American-born 
 boy has a chance to become President of the United 
 States. I had also the idea that a child bom out 
 of the United States was not, in this sense, Amer- 
 ican-born. My wife expected to give birth to a 
 child in a few months, and, like most parents, we 
 fully expected it would be a son. So what should I 
 do, in order not to rob my son of the chance of 
 becoming President of his country, but send the 
 mother across the seas to Boston, that he might 
 be bom on the soil of the United States ! It was 
 not until some little time after this that I leamed 
 that nationality follows the parents, and that 
 Presidents may be bom anywhere, if they are 
 careful in the matter of their parents. The ex- 
 pected boy was a girl— if I may be pardoned an 
 Irish bull. This was my daughter Sue, who could 
 never be President, unless the Woman's Suffrage 
 movement moves along very much faster than it 
 has up to this time. 
 
 I havfe not mentioned my partner in the Aus- 
 136 
 
BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTRALIA 
 
 tralian venture, since I said that he and our clerks 
 sailed away from Boston for Melbourne on the 
 Plymouth Eock — a curious reversal of history, for 
 the West was going to exploit the East, and it was 
 singular that a vessel with the historic name of 
 Plymouth Eock should have been chosen to bear 
 this new Argonautic expedition into the South 
 Seas. Captain Caldwell, as I have said, was an 
 elderly man, sober and conservative. He had been 
 a sea-captain for many years, and was a man of 
 considerable experience. It was the expectation 
 of the Boston shippers that his conservatism 
 would serve as a check upon my rashness and ven- 
 turesomeness. 
 
 Captain Caldwell, however, did not like Aus- 
 tralia, but his presence did not prevent my plung- 
 ing into whatever speculation or enterprise seemed 
 inviting. The coimtry was full of chances, and I 
 should have been stupid, indeed, not to have 
 availed myself of them as far as possible. But 
 the rough life did not suit Captain Caldwell, 
 although he was accustomed to roughing it at sea ; 
 and he wanted to return to America. So I con- 
 sented to his return. He went in the same ship 
 with my wife, the Eed Jacket, which, by the way, 
 was then to make one of the record-breaking voy- 
 ages of the world. Although he had been in Mel- 
 bourne only a few months, I gave him $7,500, 
 which was the share belonging to him of the esti- 
 mated profit in our business. 
 
 137 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 There was still another incident connected with 
 this voyage of the Eed Jacket which made it mem- 
 orable in my experiences. I have mentioned that 
 the phrenologist Bridges said, in England, some 
 years before this, that I should become either a 
 great reformer or a great pirate. In Melbourne, 
 one day, I found myself face to face with a charge 
 of piracy ! I was accused of trying to make away 
 with some $2,000,000 of gold, which I had put on 
 the Red Jacket for shipment to London. 
 
 It happened in this way. It was of course cus- 
 tomary to have all bills of lading signed by the 
 ship's captain. But Captain Eeid, of the Red 
 Jacket, had been arrested, at the instance of one 
 of the passengers, and the ship was libeled on ac- 
 count of a claim. For this reason. Captain Reid 
 had not been present to sign the bills of lading. 
 In Boston, I had often signed biUs of lading in 
 the absence of the captain, so I had had no hesi- 
 tancy as to my course in this emergency. I con- 
 sidered that I had a perfect right to sign the bills, 
 and so I did sign them for the $2,000,000 in 
 gold, putting it " George Francis Train, for the 
 captain." 
 
 Now, the English are a conservative people. 
 When they see anything new it " frights " them. 
 They can not understand why there should ever 
 be occasion for any new thing under the sun. 
 When the Melbourne banks saw that I had signed 
 the papers, they were scared nearly out of their 
 
 138 
 
BUSINESS SUCCESS IN AUSTEALIA 
 
 boots. They had never heard of such a proce- 
 dure, and thought their insurance was gone. 
 
 But this was not all. The Eed Jacket was the 
 fastest clipper that had then visited Melbourne, 
 and it occurred to these bankers that I was going 
 to run off with this gold, and become a Captain 
 Kidd or a buccaneering Morgan. They grounded 
 their fears upon the facts that my wife was 
 aboard, that Captain Caldwell, my partner and 
 friend, was also a passenger, and they believed 
 that Captain Eeid was on board, although under 
 arrest. To suspicious bankers, here was a really 
 strong case against me. 
 
 In the meanwhile, the Eed Jacket, with her 
 trim sails bellied with the wind, and sweeping 
 along in a way of her own that nothing in the 
 South Seas could imitate or approach, was pass- 
 ing down Hobson's Bay. The Government and 
 the Melbourne authorities despatched two men-of- 
 war after her. There was no possibility of her 
 being overhauled by these craft, and I gave orders 
 to make for Point Nepean. The sheriffs from Mel- 
 bourne, who thought Captain Eeid was aboard, 
 stayed on the ship, but I ordered them put off at 
 the Point. They were furious, but could do noth- 
 ing, since they could not act for Melbourne at sea 
 under the Stars and Stripes. Accordingly, they 
 were put on a tug and taken back to Melbourne. 
 Immediately after the sheriffs left the boat, a lit- 
 tle yacht, the Flying Eagle, with Captain Eeid 
 11 139 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 aboard, came alongside, and the captain was put 
 on the Eed Jacket, just outside the jurisdiction of 
 Australia. 
 
 The Eed Jacket caught the wind again, and 
 showed her clean heels to the slow-sailing men-of- 
 war giving chase. She made the run to Liverpool 
 in sixty-four days. 
 
 The authorities and the bankers of Melbourne 
 did not like the proceedings at all, but saw that 
 they could do nothing. There was great anxiety 
 in Australia for two months and more. "When it 
 was learned that the $2,000,000 of gold had been 
 landed in Liverpool without the loss of a farthing, 
 I was heartily congratulated, although the British 
 spirit never forgave the taking of matters into 
 my own hands and making* the best of a bad situa- 
 tion. Their conservatism had received a shock. 
 
 140 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 THE GOLD-FEVEE IN NEW SOUTH WALES AND 
 
 TASMANIA 
 
 1853-1855 
 
 During my stay in Melbourne tlie gold-fever 
 was at its height. I was particularly interested 
 in the mines, and went to Ballarat to see how the 
 British managed these things. It was while I was 
 there, as it happened, that the great "bonanza 
 nugget " was discovered. I shall never forget the 
 impression that this discovery and its tragic end- 
 ing made upon my mind. It is a story that the 
 world has heard many times, perhaps, and as 
 many times forgotten ; but for one who felt its ter- 
 rible lesson stamped hot upon his heart, it is im- 
 forgetable. 
 
 There were lucky and unlucky miners in Aus- 
 tralia, as there have been everywhere else in the 
 world's gold-fields. Many found great nuggets 
 that contained fortunes — "infinite riches in a lit- 
 tle room" — ^while many more found nothing but 
 infinite hardship and heart-breaking misery. 
 Among the army of broken men, there was a 
 
 141 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 " hobo " named Hooligan who had not found 
 any gold, could no longer find even work, and was 
 starving. One day he went to the owners of a 
 mine or shaft that had been worked out, and asked 
 permission to go down to try his luck. They con- 
 sented. The desperate fellow took his pick and 
 descended to the bottom of the shaft. In a few 
 minutes he was worth a fortune. He had found 
 the biggest nugget ever taken out of the earth's 
 treasure-house. Two hundred feet below the sur- 
 face of the ground, he had driven his pick, by 
 merest chance, against a lump of gold that would 
 have transmuted Midas' s wand into better metal. 
 
 He came up out of the shaft, knowing that he 
 had found a pretty big sum, but did not realize 
 how much it was. The nugget was brought up 
 and weighed. It had exactly the weight of a barrel 
 of flour, 196 pounds. He was rich. That morn- 
 ing he had been a beggar, and now he was the 
 richest miner in the fields. They weighed the gold 
 carefully, and told him that he was a rich man. 
 
 "Is— all— that— mine?" he asked, as if the 
 words were as heavy as the big nugget and as val- 
 uable. They told him it was. " It doesn't belong 
 to the Government?" "No." "All mine," he 
 said in a whisper, and dropped to the floor, dead. 
 
 No one knew him. His name even was not 
 known. He was a mere restless wanderer upon 
 the face of the earth, and had broken his heart 
 over the biggest nugget, the richest piece of gold, 
 
 142 
 
GOLD-FEVER IN NEW SOUTH WALES 
 
 on the globe. And so the nugget became the prop- 
 erty of the Government, after all. 
 
 Capt. David D. Porter, who was afterward ad- 
 miral of the United States navy, visited Mel- 
 bourne while I was there, and I gave him a recep- 
 tion, at which he met the prominent people of the 
 colony. He was a relative of mine. I was very 
 proud of him then, though more so later. He was 
 in command of the Golden Age, which was after- 
 ward famous for the Black Warrior incident. 
 He invited my wife and myself to go with him in 
 his ship to Sydney, New South Wales. We had a 
 delightful trip around the island. The ship made 
 as great a sensation in Sydney as it had made in 
 Melbourne. The American flag had rarely been 
 seen above a man-of-war in those waters. At Syd- 
 ney we met Sir Charles Fitzroy, Governor of New 
 South Wales, as well as prominent people in civil 
 and official life. Sir Charles Fitzroy was a sur- 
 vival of the old " beau " days of the court of the 
 last of the Georges, and had the heavy courtesy of 
 that time, when everything said or done was ac- 
 companied by a low bow and a gracious smile. He 
 entertained us handsomely at Government House. 
 We were also entertained by Sir Charles Nichol- 
 son, at his beautiful country seat. I had the pecul- 
 iar pleasure, while in Australia, of fulfilling one 
 of the prophecies of Sidney Smith, made when he 
 had been editor of the Quarterly Eeview some forty 
 years before. He said, I remembered, that in half 
 
 143 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 a century cargoes of tea — the luxury that England 
 of his day and ours regards as an infallible evi- 
 dence of civilization — would be landed at the 
 docks of Sydney. He referred to Port Jackson, 
 which is now dominated by the thriving city of 
 Sydney, and was then one of the most promising 
 ports of the South Seas. I was, at that time, re- 
 ceiving tea on consignment from Nye, of Canton, 
 China, called the " Napoleon of tea trade," and 
 it occurred to me that Australia should be a 
 good market for it. Three cargoes came from 
 Canton, with instructions that if the market at 
 Melbourne proved unfavorable, one of the cargoes 
 should be shipped to Sydney. It was accordingly 
 sent there, fulfilling the prophecy of Sydney 
 Smith, and opening the tea trade of that portion 
 of Australia. 
 
 Sir Charles Nicholson, before we were there, 
 entertained Commodore Wilkes, who was visiting 
 Australia, and who afterward stirred up Great 
 Britain by removing forcibly from the British 
 mail-steamer Trent the Confederate States' agents, 
 Mason and Slidell. I was surprised to find in the 
 harbor two of our old packets, the Anglo-Ameri- 
 can and the Washington Irving, Captain Cald- 
 well's packet, under changed names. They had 
 been sold to English shipowners. 
 
 Sydney was not a large place at this time, al- 
 though it was growing fast. It may be well to 
 recall here that it had been founded as a penal 
 
 144 
 
GOLD-FEVER IN NEW SOUTH WALES 
 
 colony, the effects of which had not entirely passed 
 away at the time of my visit, although no convicts 
 had arrived since '41, I believe. The influence of 
 Botany Bay had also been felt by Sydney. I was 
 struck by the beautiful, narrow, rock-bound en- 
 trance to the harbor. It gives to the port many 
 miles of seashore, and is so winding that when 
 Captain Cook, who discovered it, sailed in and 
 anchored in Botany Bay, some of his sailors re- 
 ported that they saw from the masthead a large 
 inland lake in the interior. The "lake" proved 
 to be only an apparent one, produced by one of 
 the many windings of the beautiful, sinuous arm 
 of the sea, eventually to hold in its embrace the 
 fine city of Sydney. 
 
 We returned from Sydney to Melbourne after 
 a short but delightful visit. Shortly after leav- 
 ing port we ran into one of the most terrific storms 
 I have ever experienced. It was the right time 
 of the year for gales to appear, and this one, as is 
 characteristic of the wild nature of the South 
 Seas, seemed to spring from a clear sky and un- 
 ruffled waters. If our boat had been one of the 
 usual type of merchantmen, it must certainly have 
 gone down. But the Golden Age was stanch and 
 strong. She battled with the seas as with a 
 human foe. In spite of her seaworthiness, how- 
 ever, almost every one aboard thought she could 
 not withstand the repeated shock of waves that 
 tumbled in mountains against her bows. 
 
 145 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 In the midst of the stomj, I saw one of the 
 most prominent and richest merchants of Sydney 
 coming across the deck, thrown hither and thither 
 by the tossings of the ship, and carrying in his 
 hands a very heavy package, " For the love of 
 goodness, what have you there?" I asked in 
 amazement. He made no direct reply, and I 
 thought him too much terrified to speak, but he 
 finally came close up to me and said : " Mr. Train, 
 I know you have some influence here on the ship. 
 I have brought with me one thousand sovereigns. 
 They are here " — and he tapped the bag he carried 
 in his hands. " I want you to go with me to the 
 captain and give him this amount for putting me 
 off in a small boat." " A small boat would not live 
 a minute in this sea," I said. " I am prepared," 
 he replied, "to take my chances, as it would be 
 better there than here, for the ship may go down 
 any moment." I refused to go to the captain with 
 so foolish a request, and urged him to be calm, as 
 the ship was stout and would weather the storm. 
 He could not calm himself, but fretted and fumed 
 in terror. As fortune favored us, the gale sud- 
 denly stopped, sweeping on away from us as swift- 
 ly as it had come. The rich merchant soon took 
 his thousand sovereigns back to his room. 
 
 I have stated already that I was the agent for 
 Boston insurance people. This, of course, made 
 me somewhat solicitous about the safety of all ves- 
 sels in those waters. One morning the entire city; 
 
 146 
 
GOLD-FEVEK IN NEW SOUTH WALES 
 
 of Melbourne was startled by the news that a great 
 clipper had gone down or ashore on Flinder's Is- 
 land, off Point Nepean. Later we learned that she 
 was ashore, and that signals of distress were fly- 
 ing from her masthead and rigging. Of course, 
 I was much alarmed, and began at once to see 
 what could be done to save the ship and crew. I 
 got a tug, and was soon taking a rescue party down 
 Hobson's Bay. We steamed as fast as the tug's 
 engines would carry her through the driving seas. 
 As we neared the wreck, we saw that the ship was 
 the Whistler from Boston. She seemed to be a 
 complete wreck, and with our glasses we could not 
 discover any sign of life aboard her. 
 
 I did not give up the venture there, however, 
 but directed the captain of the tugboat to make 
 directly for the island. I had a vague hope that 
 the crew had somehow managed to get ashore in 
 the boats or on floating timbers. The captain did 
 not relish this part of his work, and his fears 
 were soon justified, for we very narrowly escaped 
 shipwreck ourselves in the wild seas. We had, 
 finally, to wait until the waves went down a little, 
 before attempting to land on Flinder's Island. We 
 got up as near as we could, however, and then we 
 saw signals flying from shore. We signaled in 
 reply, and the wrecked crew understood that we 
 were waiting for the sea to run less wildly before 
 attempting to reach land. 
 
 The wind died down slowly, and it was hours 
 147 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 before we could approach the coast. As soon as 
 possible, I got out with a crew in a small boat and 
 went to the island. We had a most difficult time 
 in getting through the surf and avoiding the break- 
 ers, but we finally reached shore. There we found 
 Captain Brown with his wife, the ship's officers 
 and the crew, all alive and well. They had man- 
 aged to live on shell-fish and wallaby — the small 
 bush kangaroos. They had not been able to take 
 anything from the ship, and could not, of course, 
 reach her after she had been abandoned. We got 
 them all aboard the tug, and carried them safely to 
 Melbourne. The American consul afterward sent 
 them all home by way of Liverpool. This was the 
 second rescue of shipwrecked crew and passengers 
 that I had made, and I felt a little too proud of it, 
 I suppose. 
 
 About this time the British and Colonial Gov- 
 ernments decided to settle Tasmania with free emi- 
 grants. The idea was to pay the expenses of all 
 who wanted to go to that island, and the Govern- 
 ments made a contract with the White Star Line 
 to transport the settlers. The British Government 
 was to pay one half the expense, and the Colonial 
 Government the remainder. The contract was 
 signed by Henry T. Wilson, manager of the White 
 Star Line, the sailing-ship pioneers of Morgan's 
 mammoth steamship combination, who sent all 
 the papers to me at Melbourne, as representing 
 the company, to see that the terms of the agree- 
 
 148 
 
GOLD-FEVER IN NEW SOUTH WALES 
 
 ment were carried out. He also requested me to 
 go to Hobart Town (now called Hobart) to be 
 there wlien the first ship-load of emigrants ar- 
 rived to collect the money for the passage. I im- 
 mediately took steamer for Hobart Town, and 
 I shall never forget the pleasure of that voyage. 
 It was a revelation. The trip up the estuary to 
 Hobart Town was delightful, and the scenery, 
 I think, was altogether the most charming 
 I had seen in the Southern world. At Hobart 
 Town I was received by Mr. Chapman, a shipping 
 merchant, to whom I had written in advance, and 
 he made me stay with him at his beautiful bunga- 
 low, on the crest of a high hill, commanding a fine 
 view of the city. 
 
 The emigrants arrived in excellent condition. 
 They were the first free settlers of Tasmania. 
 There had not been a death aboard ship, and the 
 moment the newcomers arrived they were em- 
 ployed, for the city of Hobart Town was very 
 thriving, and there was an abundance of work to 
 be done. I again had the pleasure of feeling that 
 in this, as in other enterprises, I was an argonaut 
 and a pioneer. 
 
 I was astonished to find so many persons of 
 prominence, especially in the world of letters, set- 
 tled in this far-away colony of England. At Ho- 
 bart Town I found the Powers, the Howitts 
 (whose books were then tremendously popular), 
 and Thorne, the author of Orion. Then, as now, 
 
 149 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 this colony was regarded as the most pleasant por- 
 tion of the vast possessions of Great Britain in the 
 South Seas. The climate and the aspects of the 
 country were far more pleasant than those of Aus- 
 tralia, some fifty miles distant across Bass Straits. 
 
 At the time of my visit the whole world was 
 talking about the various efforts being made to dis- 
 cover the remains of the ill-fated expedition to the 
 North Pole that had been led by the former gov- 
 ernor of Tasmania, the much-beloved Sir John 
 Franklin. He had gone to the north in 1845, and 
 nothing had been heard of him since. His wife 
 was supposed to be mourning for him in solitude. 
 
 Curiosity led me to the house where this fa- 
 mous governor and adventurous explorer had 
 lived, and the janitor, a trusted old servant, 
 showed me over the building. It was one of those 
 enormous structures which the English build for 
 the edification and amazement of the natives in 
 their colonies. I had heard and read a great deal 
 about Sir John and the lovely woman that was 
 mourning his long absence, and I entered the silent 
 house with a feeling that I was trespassing upon 
 a great and unutterable grief. Imagine my aston- 
 ishment — ^I may say, horror — to learn that Lady 
 Franklin, or Lady Jane, as she was generally 
 called, had for years lived at one end of the long 
 house, while Sir John had lived at the other, and 
 that, as the story went, they had not spoken to 
 each other for years. She seemed certainly to 
 
 150 
 
GOLD-FEVER IN NEW SOUTH WALES 
 
 have had the grace to assume a virtue she did not 
 possess, and apparently mourned her lost lord for 
 years, and spent much of her time in liberal chari- 
 ties. This is the first time I have referred in any 
 way to this unknown unhappiness of Sir John 
 Franklin. It was not known to many people in 
 Tasmania at the time, and I suppose that it is 
 known now only to members of the two families, 
 the Franklins and the Griffins. 
 
 As I had come half around the island of Tas- 
 mania, approaching Hobart Town from the sea, 
 I had seen nothing of the interior of the country, 
 so I determined — after finishing my business in 
 Hobart Town — to cross the island to Launceston. 
 There is now a railway running directly across, 
 but at that time there was only a stage route. 
 Stages ran every other day, I engaged passage 
 in the mail-coach, the same style of coach that had 
 been used for hundreds of years in England and 
 Scotland, still as rough and cumbersome as when 
 first devised. There, too, was the old Tudor 
 driver and the Eestoration guard. Nothing was 
 wanting. The coach looked to me as if it had been 
 taken from behind the scenes of some old comedy 
 — a piece of stage property. 
 
 But if the stage was antiquated and out of 
 touch with the modern stir of the world, the driver 
 was not. I asked him what he thought would be 
 the proper thing in the way of a " tip," as I did 
 not know the ways of Tasmania. " That depends, 
 
 151 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 sir," he said, "upon whom we are riding with." 
 That settled the business for me, for my tip then 
 had to be a sort of measure of my self-esteem. I 
 was literally cornered, and had to give him a big 
 tip, in sheer self-defense. 
 
 The road to Launceston was an excellent one, 
 a macadam built by convicts, and the scenery was 
 the most beautiful I had seen in Australasia. 
 When I arrived at Launceston I had to get a pass 
 to leave the country, as it had been necessary to 
 have a passport to enter it. The British were very 
 particular whom they permitted to leave Tas- 
 mania, and whom they allowed to go there. 
 
 Near Launceston I saw the room in which 
 Francis, who was afterward a member of the 
 cabinet of the colony of Victoria and one of 
 the ablest and most energetic men of Australasia, 
 had his famous and terrible fight with a burglar. 
 This fight has become a tradition all over the colo- 
 nies and is still recalled as one of the thrilling 
 experiences of early days. One night Francis 
 heard a noise in his dining-room. He was up late, 
 studying in his library, and as the country was 
 infested by desperate convicts who had escaped 
 from the camps, he at once went to the room to 
 see whether a burglar had broken in. 
 
 Peering through the keyhole, he saw a man 
 with a dark lantern putting the family plate into 
 a bag. Francis came to a decision at once as to 
 what to do. He would enter the room, and fight 
 
 152 
 
GOLD-FEVEK IN NEW SOUTH WALES 
 
 it out with the robber. SUently opening the door, 
 he entered, and then quickly locked the door and 
 threw away the key. Immediately there was a 
 desperate fight. The burglar finding himself en- 
 trapped, turned upon Francis and tried to kill him 
 with a huge knife. Francis caught his arm, and 
 a struggle to the death began. Several times the 
 burglar wrenched his hand free and slashed at 
 Francis, but the plucky fellow did not flinch. He 
 fought until he had conquered the robber, threw 
 him to the floor, and bound his hands behind him. 
 Francis was himself so badly cut that he was in 
 sight of death for weeks. 
 
 The exploits of the convict Tracy out in Ore- 
 gon remind me of a far more terrible case in Aus- 
 tralia that occurred while I was there. The coun- 
 try was a sort of frontier, in the Western sense, 
 from one end to the other. It was quite possible 
 that a desperate convict lurked in every patch of 
 bush, who would as soon Mil you as ask for bread. 
 But news came to Melbourne one day that a con- 
 vict had escaped in a peculiarly terrifying man- 
 ner. He was no ordinary man. He had coolly 
 killed two jailers, or guards, having taken from 
 them their own weapons. Then, going to the 
 water, he ordered a boatman to row him out to a 
 vessel so that he might escape from the country. 
 The boatman, not knowing the character of the 
 man he was dealing with, refused, and was shot 
 dead instantly. The fugitive then rowed out to 
 
 153 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the vessel in the dead man's boat, and demanded 
 of the captain that he take him aboard and carry 
 him to Melbourne. The captain refused, and he 
 also was shot dead, and with loaded pistol the con- 
 vict then compelled the mate to take him to Mel- 
 bourne. After he landed he began a forlorn at- 
 tempt to save himself from his pursuers. 
 
 This beginning in his career of murder was 
 sufficiently terrible to give the entire region a 
 shock, when it became known that he was at large 
 and headed for Melbourne. He was next heard 
 of when he reached Hobson's Bay at Sandridge. 
 Here he found a farmer plowing in the field. The 
 convict needed his horse, and shooting the farmer, 
 rode away. Another farmer followed him, and in 
 turn was killed. 
 
 By this time, of course, the whole country was 
 aroused — even the police — and parties were hur- 
 riedly formed to capture the murderers, for no 
 one at the time could believe that it was only one 
 man who was committing all these crimes. When 
 he was last seen, he was heading, apparently, for 
 Ballarat, where, perhaps, he hoped to be joined by 
 other men as desperate as himself. Ballarat was 
 about one hundred miles distant, and a posse start- 
 ed in pursuit. Nothing was heard or seen of the 
 convict for fifty miles, when one of the party saw 
 a man near a squatter's hut carrying another man 
 in his arms. This seemed to be a somewhat cu- 
 rious proceeding, and the posse immediately closed 
 
 154 
 
GOLD-FEVER IN NEW SOUTH WALES 
 
 in about the man. Just as did Tracy, this man 
 shot the leader of the party. The others then 
 pushed ahead and captured him before he could 
 kill any one else. In the hut they found nine men, 
 tied with ropes. It was not understood what use 
 the convict expected to make of them. All were 
 uninjured. At the time of his capture, the con- 
 vict had killed fourteen men. 
 
 12 155 
 
CHAPTER Xn 
 
 OTHER AUSTRALIAN INCIDENTS — A REVOLUTION 
 
 Once I tried to be President of the United 
 States. Before that I had been offered the presi- 
 dency of the Australian Republic. It is true that 
 there was no Australian Republic at that exact 
 moment, but it looked to thousands that there 
 might be one very soon. There was a revolution, 
 or, as it should be called, a rebellion, for it was 
 unsuccessful, in which I had taken no part or 
 shown any sympathy, but the revolutionists, or 
 rebels, offered me the chieftaincy of their govern- 
 ment, as soon as they could establish it. 
 
 It came about in this way. In '54 the miners 
 in the fields of Ballarat and Bendigo were in a 
 state of intense ferment. They were discontented 
 with existing conditions — their luck in the mines, 
 the way they were treated by the Grovemment and 
 the mine proprietors, and especially by the utter 
 failure of the Government to protect them in their 
 rights against the capitalists. The particular 
 cause of quarrel, however, was the licenses. 
 
 156 
 
OTHER AUSTRALIAN INCIDENTS 
 
 When I went to Australia, the reader may 
 easily believe, there was very little feeling for, or 
 knowledge of, the United States. I at once un- 
 dertook to spread the gospel of Americanism, and 
 introduced the celebration of the Fourth of July. 
 The colonists of England have always been quite 
 friendly to the people of the United States, hav- 
 ing a kindred feeling, and all of them have been 
 looking forward to a day when they, too, might 
 have a free country to claim for their own, and not 
 merely a red spot on the map of Great Britain. 
 For this reason, the Australians took kindly to the 
 idea of celebrating the independence of the United 
 States, as formerly a colony of Great Britain. 
 
 When the miners, who had heard of my 
 " spread-eagleism," as it has since been called, 
 started their little revolt against the government 
 of the British, they thought of me and offered me 
 the presidency of the republic they wanted to 
 create. In the meantime, they elected me their 
 representative in the colonial legislature of the 
 miners about Maryborough, where they held a 
 great meeting. I could not have taken my seat if 
 I had desired it, and as I did not desire it, of 
 course I declined. The imaginary presidency I 
 declined, also, as I neither wanted it, nor could I 
 have obtained it. The "Five-Star Republic," as 
 it was called, was not to be anything but a dream, 
 and the "revolution" of Ballarat was only a 
 nightmare. 
 
 157 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Soon after I declined these honors, there was 
 a terrible riot at Ballarat. The whole mining 
 district had risen against the Government, as La- 
 trobe, the governor, had made himself most un- 
 popular by his policy of procrastination. Every- 
 thing connected with the mining fields, he seemed 
 to think, could as well be looked after next year 
 as this. The resentment of the miners had at last 
 become uncontrollable. But, slow as they were 
 about redressing the grievances of the miners, 
 the British were fast enough in the business of 
 protecting themselves and in putting down dis- 
 turbances with a firm and heavy hand. Latrobe 
 waited until the thing had almost got beyond him. 
 He felt that he was all right with the old " squat- 
 ters," whom he understood and who understood 
 him; but he did not realize that the new element, 
 the thousands of miners that had floated in from 
 every nation of the globe, did not understand him 
 or his ways. They were accustomed to having 
 matters attended to with despatch, and could not 
 tolerate the slow conservatism and unchangeable- 
 ness of the English civil office. Personally he was 
 a good man; but otherwise, he was as I have de- 
 scribed. 
 
 The first fruits of the dilatory policy was the 
 sacrifice of forty men. Captain Wise and forty 
 of his troops were cut to pieces by the enraged 
 miners, who had suddenly risen to fight for their 
 rights. Governor Latrobe immediately called for 
 
 158 
 
OTHEE AUSTEALIAN INCIDENTS 
 
 troops from New Zealand, Tasmania, and New 
 South Wales, to quell the rioters. The want of 
 preparation of the revolters at once became ap- 
 parent, and it was known that they had sent emis- 
 saries into Melbourne itself to buy arms and am- 
 munition. The head of the insurrection was James 
 McGill, who was an American citizen. He had dis- 
 appeared from the neighborhood of Ballarat, and a 
 reward of one thousand pounds sterling had been 
 offered for his capture, dead or alive. In Mel- 
 bourne there was almost a panic. Rumors were 
 that the forests were filled with armed men march- 
 ing to the destruction of the place. There were, it 
 was authentically reported, 800 armed men at 
 "Warren Heap, about eighty miles distant, who 
 were supposed to be meditating a raid. People 
 hastened to secrete their jewelry, gold was placed 
 in vaults, the banks were guarded, and a special 
 police force was sworn in. 
 
 Just as the excitement was at its height, it was 
 reported that James McGrill was in the neighbor- 
 hood of the city. I was sitting in my office one 
 morning, during these days of fear, when a man 
 walked in, as cool as if he were merely going to 
 discuss the weather or some trifle of business. " I 
 hear," he said, " that you have some $80,000 worth 
 of Colt's revolvers in stock, and I have been sent 
 down here to get them." I glanced up at the man, 
 and took him in a little more clqgely. It came to 
 me in a flash who he was. " Do you know," said 
 
 159 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 I, " that there is a reward offered for your head 
 of one thousand pounds'? " " That does not mean 
 anything," he said, and smiled as if it were a joke. 
 " They can not do anything," he added, as if to 
 allay any fears that I might have. 
 
 I again took him in, and thought of my $60,000 
 warehouse that we were then standing in, of the 
 $25,000 warehouse at the other end of the railway, 
 and of all my interests in Melbourne, under which 
 we were placing a powder mine, and playing over 
 it with lighted torches. " This will not do," I said. 
 "You have no right to compromise me in this 
 way." "We have elected you president of our 
 republic," he added. " Damn the republic ! " said 
 I. " Do you mean to tell me that you refuse to 
 be our chief?" said he. "I do," I said. "I am 
 not here to lead or encourage revolutions, but to 
 carry on my business. I have nothing whatever to 
 do with governments or politics; and you must 
 get out of here, if you do not want to be hanged 
 yourself, and ruin me." I told him there was not 
 the slightest possibility of success, as Great Brit- 
 ain would crush the revolt by sheer weight of men, 
 if she could not beat its leaders in any other way. 
 
 Just then there came a rap at the door, which 
 I had taken the precaution to close and lock. I 
 hurried to the door and asked who was there, and 
 the reply was that it was Captain McMahon, chief 
 of police. He said to me: "Do you know that 
 rascal McGill is in the city? His men are at War- 
 
 160 
 
OTHER AUSTRALIAN mCIDENTS 
 
 ren Heap, but he himself has actually come into 
 Melbourne ! I want a dozen of those Concord wag- 
 ons of yours immediately." I made a motion of 
 my hand to make McGrill understand that he must 
 keep quiet. Then I began to talk rapidly with the 
 chief of police, and took him to the farther end of 
 the warehouse, shutting the door of my office be- 
 hind us. No more wagons were there, for 
 the Government had already got aU I had, but I 
 wanted time to think. When we had looked 
 around, and had seen that there were no wagons. 
 Captain McMahon left, and I hurried back to 
 McGill. 
 
 " Now, McGill," I said, " I am not going to be- 
 tray you, but am going to save your life. You 
 must do as I tell you/' He looked at me for a 
 moment, and said, " But I am not going back on 
 my comrades." " You will have no comrades soon, 
 but will be in the hands of the officers yourself, if 
 you do not do exactly as I tell you." He finally 
 consented to do as I advised. 
 
 As soon as I saw that the way was clear, I took 
 him out into the street to the nearest barber, where 
 I had his hair cut and his mustache shaved off, and 
 then made him put on a workman's suit of clothes. 
 We then got into my chaise, and I drove him down 
 to the bay and took him aboard one of our ships 
 that was about to sail, and told the men that I had 
 brought a new stevedore. McGill pitched in and 
 worked along with the men, and there was nothing 
 
 161 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 to show that he was in any way connected with 
 the revolution of Ballarat, much less its leader. 
 
 Three days later the ship sailed, and McGill 
 went on through England to America. This ended 
 the whole affair of the revolution, the chase of the 
 leader, and my chance of being President of the 
 Five-Star Republic I 
 
 One day a man, wearing a jaunty silk hat, came 
 into my office. " I see you bring in rum from New 
 England," said he. " How much have you on 
 hand? " I went over the invoices, and told him. 
 He then asked if I gave the same terms as other 
 dealers in Melbourne. "Yes," said I; "cash." 
 " Oh, no," said he. " I get three months^ time." 
 He showed me a contract he had just signed with 
 Denniston Brothers & Co., of New York, repre- 
 sented in Melbourne by McCuUagh & Sellars, for 
 £3,000 payable in three months. I was astonished. 
 The house had branches in all of the great cities 
 of the world. I told the gentlemanly-looking fel- 
 low who wanted the rum that if Denniston could 
 afford to trust him for $15,000, 1 thought we could 
 trust him for $3,000. I took pains to see, however, 
 that our paper bore an earlier date than that of 
 Denniston. But this precaution amounted to noth- 
 ing against this shrewd manipulator. He gave his 
 name as John Boyd. 
 
 By the end of the week, I began to grow a little 
 suspicious, and sent my clerk to the office of Mr. 
 Boyd early on Monday morning. The office was 
 
 162 
 
OTHER AUSTRALIAN INCIDENTS 
 
 closed, and there was no Mr. Boyd there. He had 
 gone to Sydney, and that was the last seen of 
 Boyd in Australia. He had " buncoed " us and 
 Denniston & Co. in the easiest sort of way. I 
 really felt cheated, it was done so smoothly. I 
 had not got the worth of my money, as I should 
 have done had I been harder to deceive. There 
 had been no sport in that. 
 
 I next heard of Boyd at Singapore ; but I was 
 to run up against him later. In '61, when I was 
 giving a junketing trip to some people on the 
 Union Pacific road, and a party of us were on the 
 steamboat St. Joseph going to Omaha, a man came 
 up to me and claimed an acquaintance. Although 
 more than twelve years had passed, I recognized 
 him at once as the John Boyd who had got the bet- 
 ter of me in that little trade in Melbourne. I pre- 
 tended not to know him. I suppose he assumed 
 that the matter had passed out of my mind and 
 that his face was no longer familiar to me. He 
 cooUy gave me his address on a card, and when I 
 looked at it I saw "Noble & Co., Bankers, Des 
 Moines, Iowa." I knew him by his broken nose, 
 that would have betrayed him at the ends of the 
 earth. 
 
 Perhaps the thing I enjoyed most in Australia 
 was the introduction of American articles — " Yan- 
 kee notions," the people there called them — into 
 Australia, even against the prejudice of the col- 
 onists. They would fight hard against everything 
 
 163 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 that was new or American, but I took a delight in 
 overcoming their bias, and forcing them to accept 
 our ideas. I made a calculation once of the things 
 that I had introduced into Australia, and they 
 amounted to something like fifty. Among these 
 were such common things as the light wagon, the 
 buggy, shovels, and hoes, and — ^wonderful to think 
 of when one hears and reads so much in these days 
 of the " tins " that the British army consumes — 
 tinned, or canned, goods. These had not been 
 heard of, and I saw at once that there was a fine 
 chance for some profitable business. English 
 packers could not begin to compete with us. On 
 one cargo that I brought in from New London, 
 Conn., we made a profit of 200 per cent. And now 
 " Tommy Atkins " lives on the " tins " that we in- 
 troduced as a method of carrying provisions from 
 one end of the world to the other. 
 
 I suppose that it was from a part of the returns 
 from this profitable shipment that the owners of 
 the goods founded the Soldiers' Home at Noro- 
 ton, Conn., during the civil war. I must record 
 here a curious incident. It was in this home that 
 a soldier carved a most elaborate design upon a 
 cane which he gave to me, showing in brief out- 
 line the whole of my history. It was a wonderful 
 piece of work, and I have kept it as a souvenir of 
 the regard of this soldier in the home that was 
 probably founded in part with the proceeds of the 
 first great shipment of canned goods into Austra- 
 
 164 
 
OTHER AUSTRALIAN INCIDENTS 
 
 lia, and of my part in introducing this new trade 
 into the South Seas. 
 
 I had the opportunity of meeting some famous 
 and curious people in Australia. On one of the 
 celebrations of the 17th of March, I met a great 
 many Irish patriots, among them Smith O'Brien, 
 John Martin, and Donohue. I was an invited 
 guest, and sat down with more than two hundred 
 of the most prominent Irishmen of the Austral- 
 asian colonies. When Smith O'Brien was in an 
 Irish jail in '48, 1 asked him for his autograph. I 
 have made it a point to collect the autographs of 
 all the famous men and women I have met, and 
 now have, perhaps, the finest collection of auto- 
 graphs to be seen in this country. O'Brien im- 
 mediately wrote on a card the following verse : 
 
 "Whether on a gallows high, 
 Or in the battle's van, 
 The fittest place for man to die, 
 Is where he dies for man." 
 
 This sentiment of the Irish poet was peculiarly 
 appropriate for men, who, like the patriots and 
 " rebels " about me, were facing prison or death 
 at every hour. 
 
 I shall bring together here some incidents of 
 my life in Australia that are not closely coimected 
 with other events there. We made some tremen- 
 dous profits in Melbourne, the sort that makes 
 one's blood tingle, and transforms cool men into 
 wild speculators. I have already mentioned the 
 
 165 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 profit of 200 per cent on the cargo of canned 
 goods. On a cargo of flour from Boston, 7,000 
 barrels, we made a profit of 200 per cent, the flour 
 selling for £4 sterling the barrel. This flour had 
 been shipped to us through John M. Forbes, of 
 Boston, for Philo Shelton and Moses Taylor, the 
 millionaire of New York. 
 
 When I returned to New York in '57, during 
 the panic, I met Taylor in Wall Street. He must 
 have been in terrible need of money to keep his 
 head above water, and he at once said to me: 
 " Why did you charge me 7^ per cent commission 
 for handling that cargo of flour in Melbourne? " 
 I looked at him in astonishment. He had forgot- 
 ten the enormous profit he had made on the ship- 
 ment, and remembered now only the small matter 
 of the commission he had been compelled to pay. 
 
 I replied that the commission was our usual 
 charge. He told me he was buying up his own 
 paper in the street, and was not in temporary dis- 
 tress. "I do not think you should have charged 
 me more than 5 per cent commission," he said. I 
 was disgusted at this view of a transaction that 
 had brought him in a profit that would have been 
 considered marvelous even by a usurer. " All 
 right," I said, "I will give you the difference 
 now." And I gave him a check for $2,500. 
 
 I met a large number of actors and actresses 
 in Melbourne, for it was quite the custom as early 
 as that for stars of the stage, whether tragedians 
 
 166 
 
OTHEK AUSTRALIAN INCIDENTS 
 
 like Edwin Booth, or dancers like Lola Montez, to 
 make a tour of the world and take in Australia on 
 the circuit. I was astonished to meet Booth and 
 Laura Keene, " stranded," one day, although they 
 had made a successful tour in England. They did 
 not appeal to the rough audiences of Australia, 
 and so did not have enough money to take them 
 back to the States. It so happened that I had 
 just bought the City of Norfolk to send to San 
 Francisco as the pioneer of a new hne, which is 
 now thoroughly established, and making rapid pas- 
 sages between the two ports. I gave them free 
 passage to San Francisco. Laura Keene frequent- 
 ly mentioned the fact in " asides " on the stage, 
 but I never received a word of thanks or apprecia- 
 tion from Booth. Kate Hayes and Bushnell also 
 visited Australia while I was there, and I gave 
 them a concert and started them off on their tour. 
 But the greatest sensation that was created in 
 the theatrical world of Australia during my stay 
 was made by Lola Montez, the dancer from Mad- 
 rid. She danced and pirouetted on the necks 
 and hearts of men. The rough mining element 
 went wild over her, and she had the wealth and 
 rank of Melbourne at her feet. One morning she 
 burst into my office, and called out in her quaint 
 accent, " Is Mr. George Francis Train here? Tell 
 him that I am his old friend from Boston, and 
 that I have just arrived from San Francisco." She 
 had called to make a complaint against the captain 
 
 167 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 of our ship, whom she wanted us to discharge for 
 some supposed discourtesy to her. We patched 
 up this quarrel, and I did everything I could to 
 insure her a successful season in Melbourne. She 
 had a tremendous vogue, and danced before 
 crowded houses. 
 
 One night I called at the green-room of the 
 theater to see her, sending in my card. I had 
 seated myself on .the sofa to wait until she finished 
 her dancing. Suddenly the door flew open, and 
 in rushed something that looked like a great ball 
 of feathers. This ball flew toward me and I was 
 enveloped in a cloud of lace! The bold little 
 dancer had thrown her foot over my head ! 
 
 My life in Australia, now drawing to a close, 
 as I had made arrangements for leaving there to 
 continue my business operations in Japan, had 
 been very charming and profitable. Everything 
 was novel and strange to me, and it all made a 
 deep and lasting impression upon my mind, which 
 was then eagerly receptive. 
 
 I find, in recalling these impressions, that my 
 first idea of Australia still remains the most prom- 
 inent one left in my memory. Australia was truly 
 the antipodes. Everything seemed to be reversed, 
 a topsy-turvy land. At Botany Bay I was aston- 
 ished to find the swans were black, thereby de- 
 molishing our beautiful ideas about " milk-white " 
 swans. The birds talked, screamed, or brayed, in- 
 stead of singing, and the trees shed their bark in- 
 
 168 
 
OTHER AUSTRALIAN INCIDENTS 
 
 stead of their leaves. The big end of the pears 
 was at the stem, and cherry-stones grew on the 
 outside of the fruit. I was sitting one day in the 
 garden of the governor-general when I thought I 
 felt some one tap me on the shoulder. Then my 
 coat was wrenched off my back, and I turned just 
 in time to see it disappear down the throat of a 
 tame Australian ostrich, called an emu. The bird 
 had taken me for a vegetable. 
 
 Sidney Smith describes the kangaroo as an ani- 
 mal with the head of a rabbit, the body of a deer, a 
 tail like a bed-post, and which, when in danger, puts 
 its young into a pocket in its stomach. But the 
 most marvelous of all the queer things of Austra- 
 lia, to my mind, was the animal that laid eggs like 
 a hen, suckled its young like a goat, and was web- 
 footed, like a duck. This was the duckbill, or water- 
 mole, which the Australians called the Patybus. 
 
 I also saw in Tasmania, and on Flinder's Is- 
 land, the race of men that was then considered the 
 most remarkable on the globe, the original Tasma- 
 nian savages; and I saw, also, the most curious 
 weapon that man has ever invented, the boomer- 
 ang. Holmes has described this weapon in one of 
 his htmiorous verses: 
 
 "The boomerang, which the Australian throws, 
 Cuts its own circle, and hits you on the nose." 
 
 I got one of the Bushmen to throw his boomerang 
 for me. He threw it around a tree and the missile 
 came back toward us. I fully expected to be sent 
 
 169 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 sprawling. It dropped almost at the feet of the 
 savage that threw it. Even gold in that land is 
 found where it all ends in our country — in 
 pockets ! 
 
 Before closing the account of my Australian 
 experiences, I want to record that when I arrived 
 in Melbourne that flourishing port was in a hor- 
 rible condition for a city of its size and impor- 
 tance. Its streets were such as would not have 
 been tolerated in an American city of half its size 
 or one tenth its wealth. There were practically 
 no public works. After I had been there for some 
 little time, a plan was put on foot to improve the 
 city. It moved along very slowly, as no one 
 seemed to know exactly what to do, or how to do 
 it. Finally, an elaborate program was drawn up, 
 and all that was needed to carry it out was the 
 money, which would have to be borrowed. 
 
 The chairman of the improvement committee, 
 or whatever it was called, came to see me to get 
 me to undertake the floating of the necessary loan. 
 I suggested a number of improvements, such as 
 fire-engines, better office buildings, better paved 
 streets, and new gas-works. All of these sugges- 
 tions were accepted, and I forecast the floating 
 of the loan. They got the money in London, and 
 Melbourne was remodeled, so far as its appear- 
 ance was concerned, and was finally made one of 
 the most attractive cities in the British colonies. 
 It now has a population of half a million. 
 
 170 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 A VOYAGE TO CHINA 
 1855 
 
 I HAVE already referred to my purpose of 
 going to Japan to establish a brancli business 
 there. This idea came to me in Australia, after 
 Commodore Perry had opened the country to for- 
 eigners. It has always been my desire to be first 
 on the ground, and I saw that Japan offered the 
 greatest possible opportunities for trade of all 
 sorts. I had fixed upon Yokohama as the place 
 in which to open our branch house. The rapid 
 development of that city since then, under new 
 conditions, and the tremendous increase of its 
 trade with Europe and America, as well as with 
 India, China, and Australasia, have well justified 
 my early judgment. I knew we could acquire great 
 influence in the world of commerce, and become, 
 perhaps, the greatest shipping house of the globe, 
 with branch houses at Boston, Liverpool, Mel- 
 bourne, and Yokohama. 
 
 This is as good a place as any to give the rea- 
 sons for the failure of these ambitious plans. I 
 13 171 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 had gradually worked out the whole program, giv- 
 ing to it hours and days of careful and painstaking 
 examination. I felt that the scheme was abso- 
 lutely safe from every point of view. It was big 
 and almost grandiose ; but I felt it was sure to re- 
 sult in vast fortunes, in the building up of a trade 
 that the world had never before conceived or 
 dreamed of, and in the development of American 
 commerce. 
 
 In fact, I see now that I was more than half 
 a century ahead of J. Pierpont Morgan. I should 
 have formed a great shipping and navigation 
 business that would have dwarfed anything else 
 of the kind in the world. My plan was not lim- 
 ited to a few lines of ships between Europe and 
 New York. It was not confined to an Atlantic 
 ferry, I foresaw, as I fancied, American ships 
 dominating the trade of all oceans. I saw the 
 American merchant flag in every port of the Pa- 
 cific, Indian, and Atlantic oceans, and doing the 
 carrying trade of the world. I had some such 
 vague idea when I introduced the fast clipper 
 service between Boston, New York, and San Fran- 
 cisco, and, again, when I organized the fast sailing- 
 ship service between Boston and Australia. But 
 I did not see it all clear before me, as I saw it in 
 Australia. The Orient had cleared my eyes. 
 
 Of course, my first thought was for the up- 
 building of our house. I wanted it to take the 
 leading part in the stupendous task, and to become 
 
 172 
 
A VOYAGE TO CHINA 
 
 the first house of the world. All this could have 
 been accomplished, except that I had to contend 
 against the conservatism of New England, and the 
 very easily understood desire of Colonel Train 
 that his house should directly own all its ships. 
 This was, of course, impossible. He could not 
 own them, but he might control them. I urged 
 upon him the policy of retaining a controlling in- 
 terest only, and letting others come in, bringing 
 the capital we should need for the greater enter- 
 prise. This was my idea of " combination," of a 
 great " shipping combine," more than half a cen- 
 tury before it was undertaken, in another way, by 
 Mr. Morgan and his associates. 
 
 Colonel Train's persistent demand that he 
 should own all the ships, put an end to the plan. 
 It not only put an end to a grand project, but put 
 an end to his business. He was soon confronted 
 with difficulties. The business had outgrown him 
 and his limited means, had become unwieldy and 
 unmanageable. As I had foreseen, it needed more 
 men, more minds, more money; and these were 
 not forthcoming. And so, in '57, Colonel Train 
 was forced down, literally crushed beneath the 
 weight of his own undertakings, as Tarpeia was 
 crushed beneath the Sabine shields. He was the 
 victim of his desire to own and dominate every- 
 thing. 
 
 Two years before this collapse of a great idea, 
 I left Australia for Japan, by way of Java, Sin- 
 
 173 
 
MY LITE IN MANY STATES 
 
 gapore, and China, with high hopes. I had visions, 
 which were to accompany me for a year or two 
 more, and then I had to abandon them and turn 
 my attention to other fields. From Melbourne, I 
 saUed on the Dashing Wave. Has it ever occurred 
 to any one who writes or thinks of the old days 
 of sailing vessels, those winged ships, that the very 
 names of boats have changed, indicating the trans- 
 formation from romance to reality, from poetry to 
 mere prose and work-a-day business? In those 
 days we had beautiful and suggestive names for 
 ships, just as we ought to try to find beautiful and 
 suggestive names for all truly beautiful and lov- 
 able things. Now we send out our City of Paris, 
 or St. Louis, or St. Paul, or the Minneapolis, or 
 the Astoria, or Kentucky, or Blaamanden, or Rot- 
 terdam, or Eyndam, or Noordam. Then we had 
 such names as Flying Cloud, the clipper that short- 
 ened the distance between the ends of the world; 
 the Sovereign of the Seas, the Monarch of the 
 Ocean, the Flying Arrow, the Sea Eagle. The 
 Dashing Wave, Captain Fiske, carried me to Ba- 
 tavia in twenty-six days. We were accompanied, 
 for a portion of the trip, by the Flying Arrow. 
 
 At Anjer, in the Straits of Sunda, the Malays 
 came off to the ship in their little boats with pro- 
 visions of all sorts to sell. Every one of them 
 had letters of recommendation, as they thought, 
 from the English captains and officers who had 
 previously traded with them ; but these letters, if 
 
 174 
 
A VOYAGE TO CHINA 
 
 they could have been translated for their posses- 
 sors, would have been instantly cast into the sea 
 and a general riot perhaps would have followed. 
 One of the letters read something like this : " If 
 this black thief brings any eggs to sell to you, 
 don't buy them, as they are always rotten. He 
 may also try to sell you a rooster, but don't buy it, 
 as it is the same cock that crew when Peter denied 
 Jesus." Of course everybody on the ship roared 
 with laughter as each letter was handed up to us 
 and read aloud for the edification of all. The sim- 
 ple Malays guffawed loudly in their boats, think- 
 ing that we were heartily pleased with them and 
 their wares. When next I passed through the 
 Sunda Straits, Krakatoa had been at work in erup- 
 tion and had completely changed the face of the 
 coast, and Anjer itself and the little island it stood 
 on were gone. 
 
 This Dutch colony was a revelation to me in 
 every way. I had never seen anything at all like 
 it in any other part of the world, and was never 
 again to see anything quite so quaint or so delight- 
 ful. The ride from Batavia to the hotel was full 
 of surprises. I was accompanied by a troop of 
 little children, all of them pressing close up to us 
 and crying for " doits " — small copper coins. I 
 scattered these little coins among them again and 
 again, but they could never get enough, but kept 
 on crying, " doit, doit ! " Then the color of the 
 trees, the rich shades of the flowers that flourished 
 
 175 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 everywhere, the heauty of the scenery — all was a 
 delightful surprise. I have never seen elsewhere 
 so many or such rare flowers. The whole island 
 of Java, as I was soon to learn, is a vast botanical 
 garden, far more beautiful and rare than any that 
 science can create. Nature, the great horticultu- 
 rist, has here done her best and final work. The 
 air, too, was delicious. It was perfumed by flow- 
 ers, aromatic herbs, and spices. I had never real- 
 ized before what was meant by the legends of the 
 " Spice Islands," and I fancied that here was the 
 place for man to live and die. 
 
 I drove to the residence of the governor-gen- 
 eral at Buitenzorg, thirty-five miles south of Ba- 
 tavia, which was situated in a tremendous garden 
 of flowers and trees. It was the most beautiful 
 place I had ever seen, and I am quite sure that I 
 have never seen anything more beautiful since. I 
 was so delighted with Java, indeed, that I had a 
 model of a Javanese village made for me, and 
 shipped it home to my wife with the greatest care. 
 What was my surprise, when I finally reached, 
 home, and asked eagerly if the model had been 
 received, to be told that nothing had been seen of 
 it. "Didn't something come from me from 
 Java?" Oh, yes, something had come, but it 
 looked so big and uninteresting that it had been 
 put down in the cellar. And there my beautiful 
 model of the Javanese village had lain, in igno- 
 miny, for years ! I restored it to its proper posi- 
 
 176 
 
A VOYAGE TO CHINA 
 
 tion in the world, by sending it to the Boston 
 Museum. It was lost in the fire that soon after- 
 ward destroyed that building. 
 
 It was in Java that I first learned to love 
 flowers, and I have loved them more and more 
 every year of my life since. The natives of that 
 wonderful island love to strew flowers over every- 
 thing, and to garland everything with beautiful 
 blossoms. I soon became infatuated with the cus- 
 tom of carrying flowers, and adopted the bouton- 
 niere, which I afterward introduced in Paris in 
 '56, in London in '57, and in New York in '58. 
 I have endeavored to wear a spray of flowers in 
 the lapel of my coat every day since my visit to 
 Java. 
 
 There was one particularly pleasing custom, 
 which I think should have been long ago introduced 
 in this country. This was the fashion of bringing 
 in fruit to the table covered with flowers. It is a 
 custom that delights three senses at once — the 
 smell, the sight, the taste. The first time I saw it 
 was at the table of Mr. Whitelaw Eeid, when he 
 gave a dinner to me and my friends. After we 
 had finished eating, I was asked if I did not wish 
 for some of the fruit. I looked around and could 
 not see fruit anywhere. In front of me were great 
 masses of flowers in baskets, and I could readily 
 detect the odor of fruits of various kinds, but they 
 were invisible. I had almost decided that they 
 were outside in the garden, and that possibly 
 
 177 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 we were expected to pluck them from the trees, 
 which, heavily laden with their burdens, hung 
 temptingly against the windows. But no, the fruit 
 was immediately before me, hidden beneath masses 
 of cut flowers, in trays and baskets. I thought it a 
 beautiful custom, and one that distinctly appeals 
 to esthetic taste. It could well be introduced at 
 Newport or Saratoga, or in Fifth Avenue man- 
 sions. 
 
 I regretted that Great Britain had lost, through 
 a piece of carelessness, these magnificent islands 
 now controlled by Holland; although the Dutch 
 have done about as well as any other people could 
 have done, I suppose. I believe it was because 
 Lord Canning did not open his eastern mail one 
 morning, that these islands became a possession 
 of Holland instead of Great Britain. 
 
 I did not, on the occasion of my first visit, see 
 anything of the Achinese. But I passed, in '92, 
 on my last trip around the world, the northwestern 
 end of Sumatra, and Captain Hogg, of the Moy- 
 une, pointed to the little town of Achiu, built on 
 piles. He said that in the interior the Dutch were 
 still fighting the Achinese. They had then been 
 fighting these desperate Mohammedans — convert- 
 ed Malays — for thirty years. I have since thought, 
 having in view this prolonged struggle for free- 
 dom of the Mohammedan Malays of Sumatra, how 
 desperate is our undertaking in the Philippines, 
 where we are trying to subjugate a far larger 
 
 178 
 
A VOYAGE TO CHINA 
 
 population of Mohammedans, the Moros of 
 the southern islands of the archipelago. Hol- 
 land, I believe, has spent already something 
 like 500,000,000 florins to exterminate the Achi- 
 nese. It may cost us far more to exterminate the 
 Moros. 
 
 I left Batavia for Singapore on a Dutch man- 
 of-war. Captain Fabius. We stopped first at the 
 island of Bahka, belonging to Holland, and I saw 
 there the famous tin-mines, which are greater than 
 those of Cornwall, England. They were the prop- 
 erty of the brother of the King of Holland. We 
 did not stop at Sarawak, because of the little war 
 that " Eajah " Brooke, afterward known as Sara- 
 wak Brooke, was carrying on there. We arrived 
 at Singapore just too late to meet Townsend 
 Harris, the first American diplomatic repre- 
 sentative to Japan, as he had gone up to Siam. 
 Harris's visit to Japan was the real beginning 
 of a new era in the trade of the far East, and 
 no other diplomatic mission in the history of 
 this country has been fraught with greater re- 
 sults. 
 
 Singapore was then a port of much dirtiness 
 and much business. All the vessels of the world 
 came there, and the greatest variety of cargoes 
 that I have ever seen. The most interesting thing 
 I saw there was the magnificent home of a great 
 Chinese millionaire, who managed the largest 
 business in Singapore, or, indeed, in that part of 
 
 179 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the world. He had a splendid palace, surrounded 
 by beautiful and extensive gardens, the whole be- 
 ing worthy of a king or emperor. Here he lived 
 in the style of some barbaric prince. This China- 
 man had established in Singapore the kind of store 
 which we in America think we invented — ^the de- 
 partment store. But I learned afterward when I 
 went to China, that the department store is com- 
 mon there, and had been known for hundreds, per- 
 haps thousands, of years. This development of 
 the store is as old as the civilization of the Cau- 
 casian race, and, perhaps, was known to China 
 ages before America was discovered. I had the 
 pleasure of receiving an invitation to visit the 
 Chinaman in his palace, and was astounded by the 
 extensive grandeur of everything. He had a pas- 
 sion for animals, and owned two tigers in cages 
 that were the largest animals of their kind I have 
 ever seen. 
 
 From Singapore, I sailed for China on a P. & 
 O. steamer. On board I met Dr. Parker, the new 
 American minister to China, and my roommate 
 was Alexander Collie, of Manchester, England, 
 who, during our civil war, became the chief Eng- 
 lish blockade runner. I may as well dispose of 
 my experiences with Collie while I have him be- 
 fore me. Collie operated his blockade-running 
 business through the London and Westminster 
 (Limited) Bank. When I was in England I dis- 
 covered the nature of his work, and exposed him 
 
 180 
 
A VOYAGE TO CHINA 
 
 through correspondence in the New York Herald. 
 This led to the breaking down of his enterprise, 
 and to the bank's loss of £500,000 sterling. Collie 
 escaped arrest by fleeing to Spain. I have never 
 heard of him since. 
 
 181 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 IN CHINESE CITIES 
 1855-185C 
 
 At Hongkong I went to our correspondents, 
 ■Williams, Anthon & Co., and took passage in En- 
 dicott's little steamer, the Spark, for Macao, the 
 Portuguese port of China. Before leaving Hong- 
 kong, however, as I had some little time on my 
 hands, I determined to see everything that was to 
 be seen there. I had the remarkable experience 
 of meeting the man who was afterward the hus- 
 band of Hetty Green. This was E. H. Green, who 
 was married twelve years later. He was then con- 
 nected with the house of Eussell & Sturgis, our 
 correspondents in Manila, and he joined me for 
 the trip to Macao and Canton. After a short 
 stay in Hongkong, we went on to Macao and 
 Canton. 
 
 We had, on this voyage, the common experi- 
 ences of Chinese waters — pirates and typhoons. 
 At the Boca Tigris, the mouth of the Canton, or 
 Pearl, river, we were overtaken by the typhoon, 
 and we had to anchor near an island in the midst 
 
 182 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 of a number of junks. These soon proved to be 
 pirate ships, and we were, apparently, in great 
 danger. The pirates immediately began to draw 
 up about us, as if meditating an attack. The little 
 Spark would, of course, stand no chance in such a 
 contest. I did not think she could last ten min- 
 utes in a fight with those ugly junks. 
 
 The Chinese anchored their boats up close to 
 the Spark, and I noticed that a dozen of the ugli- 
 est ruffians our own sailors had ever encountered 
 were staring in through the cabin windows. T 
 could not imagine what they were looking at, and 
 went forward to see what was wrong. There was 
 Mr. Green, sitting facing the window, his feet on 
 the table, and making faces at the crew. He was 
 the coolest man, I think, that I ever saw. Noth- 
 ing moved him out of his imperturbable calm. 
 The Chinamen were scowling at him, but this did 
 not at all disconcert him. If he was going to be 
 killed by these devils, he seemed to be thinking, 
 he might as well die in a cheerful humor. How 
 could he know they were not pirates in disguise? 
 
 The pirates expected that we should fall an 
 easy prey into their hands, as our coal had given 
 out, and there was no assistance within reach. We 
 were in a dilemma, but we attacked the woodwork 
 of the deck, and got enough to fire up the engines 
 and get a head of steam, when suddenly, to the 
 amazement of the pirates, we steamed out and 
 away. The storm having subsided, the junks 
 
 , 183 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 were soon left far behind and we reached Macao 
 safely. 
 
 Macao was at that time the headquarters of 
 the new slave trade. I went to the top of a high 
 hill for the purpose of looking at the barracoons, 
 where slaves were kept. The barracoon is, in 
 meaning, a little barrack, but it is, in reality, a 
 pest-hole. Here were gathered the Chinese who 
 were to be sent as victims and slaves to the Peru- 
 vian islands. The practise was to bring China- 
 men from the interior by telling them of the great 
 riches their countrymen had found in America, 
 which was then a name that tempted all Chinamen 
 of the coast regions. Many Chinamen, it was 
 known, had gone to America and done well, and 
 the wretches that the slave-dealers wanted to ship 
 to Peru were told that they would be sent to Amer- 
 ica. They thought they were going to California; 
 but they were shipped to the Chincha islands, near 
 Callao, the port of Lima, Peru. 
 
 As Boston was then deeply interested in the 
 subject of slavery in the Southern States, I wrote 
 a description of this new slavery in the Chincha 
 islands, giving the names of the boats that had 
 recently sailed from Macao with full cargoes of 
 slaves. I had heard of this horrible traffic in hu- 
 man flesh at Singapore, but could not believe it, 
 until I actually saw it at Macao. Whenever the 
 wretches mutinied, or grew restive, they were put 
 down in the hold and the hatches closed. The hor- 
 
 184 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 rors of such a position were as great as those of 
 the infamous "Middle Passage," made so con- 
 spicuous by the abolitionists in the campaign 
 against African slavery. Chinamen perished by 
 hundreds, and many of the survivors were 
 maimed or invalided for life. In a single case, 
 some two hundred victims were smothered and 
 died in the hold of one of these slavers. My let- 
 ters to the New York Herald were copied far 
 and near. It was discovered that some of the Bos- 
 ton people themselves were interested in enslav- 
 ing the Chinese. But the practise could not stand 
 the light of exposure, and so was broken up. 
 
 "We hurried on from Macao to Canton, arriving 
 there during the Chinese New Year. This city 
 astonished me in a number of ways. It was dirty 
 and miserable beyond imagination, with narrow 
 streets and indescribable filth. But that it carried 
 on a tremendous volume of trade was apparent 
 from a glance. The river was covered with junks 
 and larger vessels at "Whampoa, the lower port, 
 floating the flags of every nation. Warehouses, 
 the " godowns " of the foreign traders, revealed 
 the existence of an enormous, and profitable 
 commerce. The word "godown," which many 
 take to be a " pidgin-English " word composed of 
 " go " and " down," and signifying putting things 
 down in a warehouse, is a Malay word, and comes 
 from " gadang," meaning a place for storing arti- 
 cles away. The warehouses were surrounded by 
 
 185 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 high walls, in the maimer of private villas and 
 town residences of the Chinese, and were adorned 
 by beautiful gardens. 
 
 There was a pretty custom, among foreign resi- 
 dents, to invite all visitors to dine with them. 
 These invitations were sent informally upon little 
 cards called " chits." As I was already known 
 in the business world there, I received a great 
 many of these invitations. I was walking with Mr* 
 Green one day, when he said it was getting time 
 to think about dinner. "Where will you dine?" 
 he asked. I replied that I did not know which in- 
 vitation to accept. I thought that I would take 
 some of his conceit out of him, by showing him 
 that I had received a great number of " chits," and 
 I drew a package of them from my pocket. I re- 
 marked coolly that I could not make up my mind 
 what to do, as I had an enibarras de richesses. I 
 counted the " chits," and there were eleven. Grreen, 
 with great nonchalance, drew out his package of 
 " chits " ; he had thirteen 1 
 
 He had a great way of taking care of himself 
 in such circumstances. He suggested that there 
 was only one thing to do — to find out who, among 
 our intending hosts, would have the best dinner. 
 He then took me around to the rear of the resi- 
 dences, where a high wall separated the gardens 
 from the native city, and where I discovered that 
 the Chinese cooks always hung up the game, poul- 
 try, and other things they were preparing for 
 
 186 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 meals. From this array we could tell what every- 
 body was going to have for dinner. After a stroll 
 through the alley, we selected the house that had 
 displayed behind it some lovely pheasants and 
 salmon, " The owner of that house shall have the 
 honor of being our host," said Green. I approved 
 his choice both then and after the dinner, which 
 was an excellent one, at which the golden pheas- 
 ants were the piece de resistance. I soon discov- 
 ered for myself, what I had long heard, that the 
 Chinese are the best cooks in the world. 
 
 Another thing I learned about the Chinaman 
 was that he is the most honest tradesman in the 
 world, and the most careful about debts. The 
 Chinese New Tear is the season when the China- 
 man wipes off the slate and begins life over again, 
 with a clean record. He pays up all debts, and 
 starts even with the world. I learned that on this 
 anniversary the Chinaman will sell everything he 
 possesses, even his liberty, his person, his life it- 
 self, to settle his debts, so that he may face the 
 new year with a clean conscience and a pure heart, 
 as well as with no bills hanging over him. 
 
 As this was practically the first Chinese city 
 I had seen, I was very curious about it. It was 
 all new ground to me, and I was eager to explore 
 it. I knew that this was not permitted, for six 
 Englishmen had been killed shortly before my ar- 
 rival, for daring to venture inside the walls of the 
 Chinese city, which was then as much forbidden 
 14 187, 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 ground as the " Pink City " of Pekin, The fate of 
 the Englishmen only made me more keen to get 
 inside the walls. I thought I could take care of 
 myself sufficiently well. I was warned by friends 
 not to risk the thing, but I took all the respon- 
 sibility, and went inside, while the gates were 
 open. I had not gone more than a few rods when 
 I heard behind me and all around me the wildest 
 cries. Men ran toward me with shouts of " Fan- 
 kwai" — foreign devil; and I saw at once that I 
 had stirred up a hornet's nest. I looked about 
 me, and discovered that the gate I had come 
 through was still open. There was a pretty fair 
 chance, by running fast, for getting through it be- 
 fore the Chinamen could head me off. This calcu- 
 lation took about one-millionth of a second, and I 
 plunged for the gate, " like a pawing horse let go." 
 If the stop-watch could have been held on me, I am 
 sure I should have established a record for a 
 short-distance sprint. 
 
 The next time I visited Canton was in '70. 
 The gates were open, and the walls were of no 
 avail to keep the foreign devils out. The Amer- 
 ican merchant Nye, who was familiarly known as 
 the Napoleon of China, because of his gigantic en- 
 terprises, took me over the city. I had read and 
 heard about Chinamen eating rats, but this was 
 the only time I ever saw the thing done, and I 
 could hardly believe my eyes. A Chinaman came 
 up to Mr. Nye and me in the street, and offered 
 
 188 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 to sell us a rat, a big fellow still alive. I asked 
 if it was to be eaten, and the Chinaman said it 
 was. " But it is not cooked," I objected. " I am 
 not going to begin on live rats." The Chinaman 
 said he would prepare it — the rat cooked and 
 served to cost me two cents. I told him to go 
 ahead. To my surprise he took a little stove from 
 under his arm, lighted a fire, and in a few minutes 
 had the rodent roasted to a crisp. I was aston- 
 ished — and ashamed — to see how nice it looked. 
 It did appear toothsome. I said to the Chinaman, 
 "Now, you can eat it." He did, and with great 
 gusto and smacking of the lips. So he got his rat 
 and my two cents, also. 
 
 But I ascertained that there is about as much 
 truth in the common stories in our silly juvenile 
 literature about Chinamen generally eating rats 
 as there is in stories of other marvelous things in 
 far-off lands. I also foimd that there is no deadly 
 upas-tree in Java, which was a distinct shock to 
 me. I had been reared, so to speak, in the fatal 
 shade of that upas. I had watched birds drop 
 dead as they tried to fly across its swath of malig- 
 nant shadow; I had seen animals stricken by its 
 fatal exudations and writhing in agony. I saw all 
 these things in the old New England farmhouse, 
 which was the headquarters of the Methodists; 
 but in Java, they had all disappeared. There 
 was no upas-tree, and the mortality among birds 
 and animals was no greater than necessary to sat- 
 
 189 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 isfy the predatory natures of other animals, birds, 
 and men. And now to find in China that the New 
 England stories about general rat-eating were 
 false, was another shock. 
 
 But the Chinese are not as cleanly as .they 
 might be. I learned this interesting fact in con- 
 nection with my taste for Canton ginger. I had 
 always, from earliest childhood, been outrageous- 
 ly fond of this delicate comfit. I had eaten it in 
 great quantities whenever I got the chance; and 
 when I arrived in Canton, the home of this con- 
 serve, I at once thought of it, and wanted to know 
 more about its manufacture. I learned, after 
 some inquiry, that it was put up at a factory on 
 the island of Ho-nan, near Canton. Ho-nan is also 
 the name of a famous Buddhist temple on the 
 same island. The factory, as well as most of the 
 so-called island, is built on piles. I had not al- 
 together overlooked this fact when I asked the 
 factory people where they got the water for the 
 sirup of the preserves. They looked at me as if 
 I were demented. " Water ! why we are right over 
 the river! " Yes, they were right over the river, 
 the dirtiest and most villainous river in the world. 
 The sewage of the dirtiest city in China — ^which is 
 saying about all that can be said on the subject — 
 is emptied into this river. I need not say that I 
 did not eat any of the Canton ginger then, and I 
 have not eaten any of it since. 
 
 I have set down my views as to the topsy-tur- 
 190 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 viness of things in Australia. I found China top- 
 sy-turvy in a different way. The Chinese begin 
 their books and letters where we end ours, at what 
 we should call the back. They read from right to 
 left, instead of from left to right, and, strangest 
 of all, the men wear gowns, and the women — don't ! 
 When I was introduced to How-kwa, a warm 
 friend of the Eussells, I advanced to shake hands 
 with him, but he stepped back and solemnly shook 
 hands with himself for me. Then he waved his 
 hands toward the door, as if to say, so it seemed 
 to me, " get out of here," and I was amazed, but 
 Sturgis informed me that the great Chinaman 
 was merely beckoning to me to come nearer to him. 
 I went up to him, by that time so impressed with 
 the Chinese way of doing things backward that if 
 he had kicked at me, I should have thought he was 
 asking me to embrace him. We were in How-kwa's 
 residence, which was surrounded by the most ex- 
 quisite gardens, and were invited to partake of a 
 cup of tea. For the first time in my life I drank 
 tea that cost $30 a pound. We used no sugar nor 
 milk, of course, as these things are considered in 
 China to spoil good tea. The next best tea I have 
 drunk, I think, was the tea I got at the fair of 
 Mjnii Novgorod, Bussia, in '57, which had been 
 brought overland thousands of miles across moun- 
 tains and deserts, packed in little bricks. 
 
 Again, I found that the Chinese look backward, 
 and not forward, and ennoble their ancestors, 
 
 191 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 instead of their offspring, and pay little at- 
 tention to the coming generation. They say that 
 they know what their ancestors — the dead — ^were, 
 but can not foretell what the living may become. 
 They scull their boats in the rivers from the bow, 
 instead of from the stern. Their boatmen are 
 usually women. While we fear the water, and 
 seek to make our dwelling places upon the rock or 
 upon very dry land, the Chinaman will get as near 
 as possible to the water. In the Canton, or Pearl, 
 river there were, when I was there, some 100,000 
 persons living on the river, in boats, or on floats, 
 or rafts. A Westerner would suppose children 
 were in danger of falling into the water. They 
 do fall in, but their mothers have devised a method 
 of rescuing them without mischance. Cords are 
 fastened to their bodies, and when a child falls 
 overboard, the cord, which is made fast to the boat, 
 prevents it from sinking too far before the mother 
 or father catches hold and pulls it back into the 
 boat. 
 
 They call all servants, male and female, 
 "boy," which reminds me that in the European- 
 ized parts of some of the Japanese cities they do 
 the same, and when they want to specify definitely 
 that the " boy " is a girl, they say " onna no boy," 
 which means " girl-boy," or girl servant. This is, 
 of course, pidgin-English, the business English of 
 the Chinese littoral. I had an amusing experience 
 with this pidgin-English. I had invited some 
 
 192 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 friends to dine with me, a merchant and his two 
 sons and three daughters, and when I asked the 
 servant who had come, he said that the merchant 
 had arrived and " two bull chilo, and three cow 
 chilo." 
 
 Pidgin-English amused me very much, as it 
 amuses every one who visits China. Augustine 
 Heard, the merchant, who was a master of this 
 lingo, used to interest me by reciting phrases 
 from it, and once gave me the following poem, 
 which is a translation of Longfellow's Excelsior. 
 The translation was made by Mr. Heard. It has 
 been published throughout the world as an 
 " anonymous " production : 
 
 THE CHINESE EXCELSIOR 
 
 That nightee teem he come chop-chop 
 One young man walkee, no can stop; 
 Maskee snow, maskee ice; 
 He cally flag with chop so nice — 
 Top-side Galah! 
 
 He muchee solly; one piecee eye 
 Lookee sharp — so fashion — my; 
 He talkee large, he talkee stlong. 
 Too muchee cuUo; alle same gong. 
 Top-side Galah I 
 
 Insidee house he can see light. 
 And evly loom got fire all light, 
 He lookee plenty ice more high, 
 Insidee mout'h he plenty cly — , 
 Top-side Galah I 
 
 Die man talkee, "No can walk, 
 "Bimeby lain come, velly dark; 
 
 193 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 "Have got water, velly wide!" 
 Haskee, my miist go top-side — 
 Top-side Galahl 
 
 " Man-man," one girlee talkee he, 
 " What for you go top-side look— see? " 
 And one teem more he plenty cly, 
 But alle teem walk plenty high — 
 Top-side Galahl 
 
 " Take care t'hat spilum tlee, young man, 
 "Take care t'hat ice, must go man-man." 
 One coolie chin-chin he good night, 
 He talkee, "My can go all light" — 
 Top-side Galahl 
 
 T'hat young man die; one large dog, see, 
 Too muchee bobbly findee he. 
 He hand b'long coldee, all same like ice, 
 He holdee flag -wit'h chop so nice — 
 Top-side Galahl 
 
 When I was ready to start for Japan, I had 
 made up my mind to visit Shanghai on the way, 
 and was about to start, when Canton merchants, 
 native and foreign, tried to dissuade me. They 
 told me it would be terribly disappointing, and 
 that I would regret wasting any time there. They 
 did not know my nature, and that this sort of 
 thing merely stimulated my curiosity and hard- 
 ened my determination. 
 
 I took passage in the P. & 0. boat, the Erin, 
 Captain Jameson, and supposed, of course, that I 
 should have a stateroom. But I was to meet with 
 another Chinese surprise. A great Chinese man- 
 darin, going from Hongkong to Shanghai, had en- 
 
 194 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 gaged the whole cabin. I was very desirous to see 
 this great personage, and soon had the opportu- 
 nity. It is my practise, when at sea, to take exer- 
 cise by walking rapidly up and down the deck, 
 thus covering many miles a day. I was taking my 
 daily exercise the day when the mandarin came on 
 board ship, and every time I passed the cabin I no- 
 ticed that he followed me with his eyes. And so 
 we kept it up for some time, I walking as uncon- 
 cernedly as I could, and the great mandarin watch- 
 ing my movements as curiously as if I were some 
 strange animal. 
 
 After a while he called the first officer, and 
 asked what I was doing. " "Walking up and down 
 the deck," he was told. " But why does he do it! 
 Is he paid for it? " The officer told him it was 
 for exercise. " What is that? " asked the Chinese 
 great man. This was explained to him, but he 
 could not understand why any one wanted to walk 
 up and down, and do so much unnecessary work. 
 The Chinese are not averse to work; indeed, they 
 are one of the most industrious people on the face 
 of the earth, but they do not do unnecessary work, 
 having, I infer, to do as much necessary work as is 
 good for them. And this great dignitary pointed 
 to me with scorn and said : " Number one foolo." 
 I hardly need explain that " number one," through- 
 out the far Bast, means the superlative degree. 
 
 This mandarin was the great Li Hung Chang, 
 who had been summoned by his emperor to save 
 
 195 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the country from the terrible Tai-ping rebellion. 
 He was on his way from Canton to Shanghai. He 
 there called in the splendid services of three great 
 foreigners — ^the Frenchman, Bougevine, the Amer- 
 ican, Ward, and the Englishman, " Chinese " Gor- 
 don ; but it was largely and chiefly due to the stub- 
 bornness and genius of Li that the empire was 
 saved to the Manchus, at a cost, it is estimated, of 
 twenty millions of lives. 
 
 When we reached Woosung there were six 
 armed opium ships for cargoes of opium from 
 Calcutta and Bombay, which the English were 
 forcing upon the Chinese, much as we should force 
 rum on the Mexicans, and make them pay for it. 
 The English and Americans were reaping fortunes 
 in the most unholy traffic the world has seen — and 
 it will never be forgotten in China, or anywhere 
 else, that England went to war with China to force 
 China to permit the shipment of opium into that 
 country to ruin millions of lives and impoverish 
 millions of families. I feel heartily ashamed of 
 myself for having once smuggled a little of this 
 horrible drug into China. But I found that many 
 Americans and Englishmen were devoting them- 
 selves to the trade as a regular business. 
 
 In Shanghai I was the guest of Eussell & Co., 
 who were then represented by Cunningham and G. 
 Griswold Gray. The fighting in the great rebel- 
 lion was still raging— it was not put down until 
 after Gordon recaptured NanMng— and when I 
 
 196 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 was in Shanghai the Chinese authorities kept the 
 gory heads of rebels hanging from the walls as 
 an example to all who contemplated opposing the 
 Manchu rule. These hideous trophies of the war 
 were the most impressive things that I saw in 
 Shanghai. 
 
 Dr. Loekhart, the missionary, acted voluntarily 
 as my dragoman and guide in Shanghai, and 
 showed me things in the city that I could never 
 have discovered for myself. In one of the squares 
 I noticed a moniunent 150 feet high, which, I was 
 told by Loekhart, had been built by the poor peo- 
 ple of China in commemoration of an old lady, 
 who had been the Helen Gould of her day. Each 
 of the subscribers had contributed cash equal to 
 one tenth of a cent. 
 
 Some really splendid virtues of the Chinese 
 impressed me deeply. I liked and admired them 
 the more I saw them. I have already said that 
 they are the most honest people on the globe. It 
 seems to me an extraordinary thing that this race, 
 the world's highest type of honesty, should be the 
 only race to which we are inhospitable. The Chi- 
 nese were far ahead of Europeans in many ways for 
 centuries. If they have fallen behind now, it may 
 be only because Europeans are rushing hastily 
 through their brief civilizations, while China, hav- 
 ing enjoyed hers for ages, is content to watch us 
 rise, flourish, and decay, as we watch the passing 
 generations of the forest and the field. 
 
 197 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 They invented and used the things that we re- 
 gard as ahnost the highest products of our civili- 
 zation. They had used the mariner's compass for 
 centuries before we had it ; they invented printing 
 perhaps a thousand years before Gutenberg; they 
 invented gunpowder, which they had used in war 
 and every-day life ; they had the best paper ever 
 seen long before the rest of the world had any, 
 and the outside nations have not yet been able to 
 duplicate theirs ; they invented the newspaper, and 
 have the oldest journal in the world, the PeMn 
 Gazette; they discovered the Golden Rule, unless 
 that honor belongs to the Greek, Thales ; they de- 
 veloped philosophy — the highest system of the 
 world, in Confucianism — before the Greeks, and, 
 of course, long before the Germans ; and they were 
 the first people of the world to appreciate educa- 
 tion. 
 
 Moreover, as Mr. Wu, the great Chinese min- 
 ister at Washington, has so often pointed out, they 
 were democratic long before Thomas Jefferson, 
 and long before the Greeks had invented the word 
 " democracy," or had discovered the idea of a 
 democratic state or city. I had been taught that 
 the hard-headed and practical Scotch had invented 
 the macadam road, naming it from a canny Scot 
 of that name ; but I found a macadamized road in 
 China three or four thousand years old, and long 
 enough to wrap around the British Isles. The 
 Chinese have long preceded us, and they may long 
 
 198 
 
m CHINESE CITIES 
 
 survive us, nullifying all the " imperialism " and 
 " expansionism " of Europe and America, which, 
 would cut her into fragments as the spoil of the 
 world. 
 
 While I was in China, on this first visit, and 
 on the several occasions of my later visits, I gave 
 much thought to the vast population of that coun- 
 try. I have come to the conclusion that the popu- 
 lation is less than half, probably less than one- 
 third, of what it is generally estimated to be. I 
 notice that the Chinese viceroys have recently 
 made an estimate of their respective provinces, 
 at the command of the emperor, and that the total 
 reaches the enormous figure of 425,000,000. I do 
 not believe that there are 200,000,000 people in 
 the entire empire, and I should prefer estimating 
 the population at something between 150,000,000 
 and 175,000,000. 
 
 I found that China is not a densely populated 
 country, as is generally supposed. The seashore 
 is fairly crowded, and the impression one gets 
 from seeing the surface of the water covered at 
 Canton with rafts and floats on which more than 
 100,000 persons live, is that the inhabitants must 
 swarm in the same degree over the face of the 
 land. This is not the case. Even the coast is 
 merely fringed with people. Back in the interior 
 there are no such dense masses of population. All 
 accounts that I can read of the interior, from 
 Father Hue down to Mr. Parsons of New York, 
 
 199 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 bear me out in this. I can not see where there are 
 more than 175,000,000, or 150,000,000, people in 
 that empire. The reports of the slaughter in the 
 Tai-ping rebellion, of some 20,000,000 people, 
 would seem to indicate a population of at least 
 200,000,000 or 250,000,000; but these figures were 
 greatly exaggerated, as all such things are in 
 China. All statistics are nothing but guesswork, 
 and the bigger they are the better people like them. 
 
 I engaged passage in the Greta, which was to 
 go to Shimoda and Hakodate, Japan. My objec- 
 tive point was Yokohama, where it was my pur- 
 pose to establish a branch of the house of Train 
 & Co., Melbourne. My Australian house was not 
 connected with Colonel Train's Boston and Liver- 
 pool packet firm. At this time, however, the Eng- 
 lish and Eussians, who were not as good friends 
 then as they are now, were fighting, and the little 
 war completely upset all of my plans. I could 
 not get to Yokohama at all, and did not visit Japan 
 until several years later. I had, therefore, to give 
 up my passage in the Greta, and turn my face from 
 Japan. Just at this point, Augustine Heard in- 
 vited G. Griswold Gray, of Russell & Co., and me 
 to go to Fu-chow, on one of his sailing ships, the 
 John Wade. 
 
 This trip I very willingly made, as I wanted 
 to see everything of China that was possible; but 
 it was more adventurous than I had expected. As 
 we were sailing down the China coast, a typhoon 
 
 200 
 
Blffi(«BnH^^^^^^^^^HH^^^^Hni^^l^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ' -. I'jutiftiiBi^l 
 
 ^h^HHHBI 
 
 
 
 ^K^^^^- 
 
 
 BBBHHHh 
 
 Geoige Fnuicis Train dietuting liis aut(>biiigrai)li)- in his ruom in 
 the Mills Hotel. 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 struck us, and over went sails and masts. Our 
 pilot from Shanghai was immediately in difficul- 
 ties, as the pilot from Fu-chow, whom we had just 
 picked up, did not understand the pilot we had 
 brought from Shanghai. I had the utmost diffi- 
 culty, owing to my inadequate mastery of pidgin- 
 English, in establishing communication between 
 these essential elements of our little crew. We 
 had, finally, to get into a boat and make our way 
 up the Eiver Min for forty miles in the dark. It 
 was a very trying experience, as the river was ab- 
 solutely unknown to me ; the darkness was " un- 
 pierceable by power of any star," and the river 
 was treacherous in itself for small boats. To 
 make matters worse, it was infested by junk 
 pirates. This latter danger I had got some- 
 what accustomed to, as almost every inch of 
 Chinese water was, in those days, the field of 
 operations for these pirates. The other nations 
 of the world had not yet adopted effective means 
 for getting rid of them as the United States got 
 rid of the Algerian and Tripolitan plunderers. 
 
 We arrived at Fu-chow, after a harassing 
 night on the river. Almost the first thing to greet 
 my curious eyes, as they were sweeping the hori- 
 zon for wonders in that land of wonders, was the 
 old suspension bridge, which the Chinese assert 
 was built in the fourteenth century. It proved to 
 be as much of a curiosity as the Chinese wall in the 
 north. At Fu-chow I was a guest in the house of 
 
 201 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the Eussells. Immediately upon landing, Gray, 
 Heard, and myself took sedan chairs for a tour 
 through the city. 
 
 On this occasion I had my first opportunity to 
 appeal to the American flag for protection. As 
 we were passing through a very narrow, but im- 
 portant street, our coolies were suddenly set upon 
 and overturned. We scrambled out of the chairs, 
 and asked what was the matter. "We learned that 
 the viceroy was also passing through the thorough- 
 fare, and that everjrthing and everybody had to 
 give way for his retinue. My companions at once 
 stepped out of the way, but my blood was up. I 
 resented being upset in the street, like so much 
 refuse, in order to have the filthy thoroughfare 
 cleared for the passage of a mere Chinese viceroy. 
 
 I had a small American flag in my pocket, care- 
 fully wrapped about its little staff, and I took it 
 out with a great deal of display and waved the 
 tiny emblem around my head. I dared the 
 Chinese servants of the viceroy to touch me or to 
 interfere with my right to pass through the streets 
 of Fu-chow. This had its effect. I noticed at once 
 that the Chinese in the street, who recognized the 
 colors of the United States, fell back from me, 
 our coolies got up out of the dirt, and once more 
 took hold of the poles of the chairs. The viceroy 
 passed on, pretending not to have noticed the inci- 
 dent, and in a few minutes the way was clear 
 again. 
 
 202 
 
IN CHINESE CITIES 
 
 Fu-chow was the black-tea port of China at 
 that time, and it had been opened just two years 
 before. It was astonishing at what a rapid pace 
 business of a certain kind swung along in the 
 coast cities of the Far East. In two years several 
 of the Canton houses, representatives of the 
 great shipping and other business concerns of the 
 world, had opened branch offices in Fu-chow. 
 Commercial life there was intensely active and 
 very prosperous. 
 
 From Fu-chow I went on down the coast to 
 Hongkong, this being my second visit there. I 
 noticed at Swatow several ships loaded with Chi- 
 nese slaves destined for the Chincha guano islands 
 of Peru. My destination was Calcutta, so we did 
 not have much time to explore the Chinese coast, 
 much as I should have hked to do so. 
 
 15 203 
 
CHAPTEE XV 
 
 TO INDIA AND THE HOLY LAND 
 
 1856 
 
 I SAILED from Hongkong on Jardine's opium 
 steamer, Fiery Cross. As the course we took had 
 been gone over by me in the voyage to Hongkong 
 from Singapore, I was not especially interested in 
 it until we had passed the Straits and got into 
 Indian waters. The Andaman Islands, where 
 dwells one of the lowest races of mankind, in- 
 terested me greatly. We saw only a little of these 
 curious people, the Veddahs, but I learned of a 
 very interesting custom followed by the widows of 
 the islands to commemorate their deceased hus- 
 bands. This consists in wearing the skull of the 
 dead man on the shoulder as a sort of ornament 
 and memento. It is considered a delicate way of 
 perpetuating the memory of the husband. 
 
 I had a letter of introduction from Robert 
 Sturgis to George Ashburner, at Calcutta, and the 
 moment I arrived Mr. Ashburner insisted upon 
 my becoming his guest. I spent three days with 
 him, and have never partaken of such luxurious 
 
 204 
 
TO INDIA AND THE HOLY LAND 
 
 hospitality elsewhere. It is only man in the Ori- 
 ent who knows how to live fast and furious and 
 get every enjoyment out of his little span of life. 
 I was surrounded by a retinue of servants, who 
 stood ready to answer every beck and call. Serv- 
 ice in India being highly specialized, there was a 
 servant for everything. I had a little army of 
 fourteen serving men, four of whom carried my 
 chair, or palanquin, with a relay, a man to serve 
 me specially at table, a punka man, and a man for 
 every other detail of living. 
 
 There was something to do and to see every 
 moment of the time. I was taken to all the 
 show-places of the city. The first sight shown to 
 me was the famous Black Hole, where John Z. 
 HolweU and one hundred and forty-six men were 
 incarcerated in a dungeon twelve feet square. One 
 can not escape being told the horrible story, if he 
 visits Calcutta, and I suppose that every one hears 
 the narrative with added adornment, after the 
 true Hindu style. The special point of the story 
 that was thrust at me was the orgy and heavy 
 sleep of the rajah, while his servitors were try- 
 ing to arouse him to answer the screams of the 
 dying men in the Hole. In the morning, after 
 the rajah had had his beauty sleep, he was told 
 of the little difficulty the English had in breath- 
 ing in the foul and heavy air of the dungeon, 
 and he ordered them released; but death, linger- 
 ing, and as heavy-handed and heavy-hearted as 
 
 205 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the brutal prince, had already released most of 
 them. 
 
 One is glad to be told for the ten thousandth 
 time, after hearing this ghastly tale, of the clerk 
 Olive leaving his ledgers and pens and leading an 
 army to crush the wretches at Plassy. But, like 
 most things of the kind, the horrors of the Black 
 Hole have been exaggerated, until sympathy, 
 palled, refuses longer to be torn and bled over im- 
 aginary as well as real terrors. There have been 
 many worse catastrophes, and of a nature that 
 should appeal more strongly to the heart. Men, 
 women, and children have gone down in flood and 
 pestilence, free from any stain of wrong, which can 
 not be said of the victims of the Black Hole. We 
 can not forget altogether that they were in India 
 not of right, but as conquerors, and that they were 
 originally, at least, in the wrong. But the suffer- 
 ers in the Johnstown flood, the thousands who 
 died in the Lisbon, Krakatoa, and Martinique dis- 
 asters, and other thousands that go down in ships 
 at sea — ^these innocent victims demand sympathy 
 much more. 
 
 It seemed that most of my sight-seeing in Cal- 
 cutta was to be limited to horrible things. In- 
 deed, the visitor is often hurried from horror to 
 horror, as if he were in some " chamber of hor- 
 rors " in a museum. I was taken to the burning 
 ghaut, where dead bodies are cremated. I saw 
 some five hundred little fires, which were so many 
 
 206 
 
TO INDIA AND THE HOLY LAND 
 
 pyres for the dead. I had heard much of the 
 burning of live women in order that they should 
 accompany their dead masters, and out of sheer 
 curiosity asked the guard if there were men only 
 in the fires. For answer, he took a long hook, 
 thrust it into one of the fires, pulled it back and 
 on its prongs brought the charred leg of a man. 
 Immediately birds of prey (adjutants) pounced 
 down upon the smoking flesh and bore it away. 
 These birds are the scavengers of Calcutta, and 
 the special guardians of the ghaut. Cremation is 
 a great economy in India. It costs only half a cent 
 to burn a body. 
 
 Another horror shall complete this gruesome 
 part of my story. Being very fond of shrimps, 
 one day I inquired, in a moment of forgetful- 
 ness — for it is a safe rule not to ask the source of 
 anything in the East — ^where and how they got 
 these shrimps. I was taken to the fishing 
 grounds in the mouth of the river, and there saw 
 millions of these prawns flocking, like petty scav- 
 engers, about the dead bodies that continually float 
 down the Ganges. Human flesh was their favor- 
 ite food. This was enough for me. I stopped 
 eating shrimps in India, as I had stopped eating 
 Canton ginger preserves in China. 
 
 On the second day of my stay in Calcutta I re- 
 ceived cards to the reception given by Lord Dal- 
 housie to Lord Canning, the new Governor-Gen- 
 eral. Lord Dalhousie, the retiring Govemor- 
 
 207 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 General, was dying. In fact he had been dying 
 for months. I shall not go into any description 
 of the exceedingly brilliant reception. It made 
 an ineffaceable impression upon me because of 
 the grouping on that occasion of some of the most 
 splendid of the British administrators and of some 
 of the most daring of their enemies, who were 
 even then plotting revolution and bloodshed. I 
 was introduced to both the passing and the coming 
 Governor-General and to General Havelock, after- 
 wards the gallant fighter at Lucknow. I had the 
 rare privilege of seeing these three men talking 
 amicably with the great Nana Sahib, the leader of 
 the Hindus at Cawnpore. 
 
 The voyage from Calcutta to Suez was al- 
 most devoid of incident. We put into Madras, a 
 barren, flat, and dismal place, to take on passen- 
 gers, and then sailed for Point de Galle, Ceylon. 
 At this place I saw, for the first time, elephants 
 employed in carrying and piling heavy timbers. 
 They go about their task with an intelligence that 
 is nearly human, lifting heavy teak timbers and 
 placing them in regular order in great piles. I 
 had not before supposed that any animals pos- 
 sessed so much sense. 
 
 Coming down to Aden, two thousand miles 
 from Galle, sleeping with the bulkhead open op- 
 posite my berth, one night I felt something slap 
 me in the face. As I was all alone, I did not know 
 what to make of it. There was no light, and I could 
 
 208 
 
TO INDIA AND THE HOLY LAND 
 
 not see. As soon as I fell asleep another slap came. 
 I had heard about the insects of the tropics, but 
 had no idea they were of such size as to cause 
 these slaps. In the morning, I found out what 
 had been the matter. Nine flying-fish lay dead in 
 my berth. 
 
 At Aden, the most barren and gloomy place I 
 have ever seen, we went out to the cantonments, 
 which must have been built thousands of years 
 ago. We hurried up the Red Sea to Suez, and 
 then crossed over by land from Suez, eighty-four 
 miles, to Cairo, with six hundred camels in the 
 caravan. We had coaches carrying six passen- 
 gers. I have a good idea of what the Sahara 
 Desert is from having seen this desert between 
 Suez and Cairo. Just before we reached Cairo, 
 there was a cry from one of the coaches for us to 
 look up at the sky. There were masts, minarets, 
 and the whole city, in fact, painted on the sky. It 
 was my first sight of the mirage I had heard so 
 much about. We were then half-way from Suez 
 to Cairo. 
 
 I put up at Shepheard's Hotel, and immedi- 
 ately arranged to go out to the pyramids, ten 
 miles from Cairo. Fifty donkey boys rivaled one 
 another to get my custom. My donkey started off, 
 and the first thing I knew he was rolling over me 
 in the sand. He had stepped in a gopher-hole, and 
 down he went. Travelers now go out in trolley- 
 cars, eat ice-cream and drink champagne under the 
 
 209 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 shade of the pyramids, and a splendid hotel stands 
 alongside the Sphinx. 
 
 In going up the pyramids it took three Arabs, 
 two to push and one to pull, to get me to the top. 
 "When we got half-way up, an Arab wanted more 
 bakshish. I talked to him pretty loud in some- 
 thing he didn't understand, and he consented to 
 take me farther. The top of the pyramid of 
 Ghizeh has been taken away, and the pyramid is 
 now about fifteen feet square at the summit. I 
 made up my mind, the moment I saw the pyra- 
 mids, that these gigantic blocks were not stone, 
 but had been produced by one of the lost arts in 
 preparing concrete. It occurred to me, as the 
 pyramids were hollow to the base, that they had 
 been storehouses for grain, and were not built as 
 tombs for the Eameses and Ptolemies. Humane 
 kings had built them, I thought, in order to employ 
 labor in time of dearth. 
 
 As all travelers are told, it was said that a man 
 would go down one pyramid and come up on 
 another in so many minutes. I had seen such a 
 number of " fakes " in my travels that, as I could 
 not tell one Chinaman from another, how should I 
 be able to tell one Arab from another? When this 
 trick was done for me I thought it did not follow 
 that the man on the other pyramid was the man 
 who had been with me. 
 
 I was surprised when I left Cairo to find a 
 modem railway, that had been built by Said 
 
 210 
 
TO INDIA AND THE HOLY LAND 
 
 Pasha. We took the train for Alexandria. At 
 Alexandria we took passage for the Holy Land. 
 The Rev. J. R. MacFarlane, chaplain of Madras, 
 wanted to see Jerusalem and landed at Joppa, or 
 Jaffa, which has become famous for Napoleon's 
 massacre. 
 
 In going through the Valley of Sharon, we saw 
 orange and lemon groves, and fruits of all 
 kinds. It was a lovely valley, but all of a sudden 
 we struck into the most desolate country I had 
 ever seen — a mountain, a desert, a wilderness of 
 rocks, ravines and canons. There were rocks to 
 the right, rocks to the left, and rocks everywhere. 
 My dragoman had a mule and I a donkey. One of 
 these mules had irreverently been named Christ 
 and the other Jesus. To the perfect horror of the 
 clergyman — until he understood that the men could 
 say nothing else in English — the names of the 
 donkeys were spoken with every crack of the whip 
 all the way to Jerusalem. The lashing of those 
 donkeys became a medley of seeming profanity. 
 
 A few weeks before, several people had been 
 killed by the Bedouins on the desert. Every one 
 was talking about the dangers of the journey. 
 After we got over this wild district, through the 
 Valley of Jehoshaphat, we came upon a plateau and 
 saw Jerusalem in the distance. Beautiful is that 
 city for situation. Said my companions, at the 
 same instant, " There are the Bedouins ! " A half 
 dozen horsemen were coming from the direction of 
 
 211 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Jerusalem. We feared danger, but Abram the 
 dragoman showed no fear. These men were 
 really not dangerous, being only " barkers " for 
 the hotels of Jerusalem. Neither my companion 
 nor myself had any idea that they were employes 
 of that kind. 
 
 One asked if we would go to " Sriiith's " near 
 Mount Calvary, to " Jones's " near the Via della 
 Bosa, or to another house on the site of Solomon's 
 Temple. MacFarlane said, "Don't notice these 
 people. Leave it to the dragoman." He decided 
 that we should go to Smith's. From that time, 
 untU we left, for three days, I saw nothing 
 but humbug and tinsel, lying and cheating, ugly 
 women, sand-fleas and dogs, from Joppa through 
 Bamlah. The one lovely place was an oasis where 
 we stopped for luncheon. Of course this was a 
 long time before Mark Twain went there and wept 
 over the tomb of Adam. 
 
 In going through the Valley of Jehoshaphat, up 
 the Mount of Olives, of course I was impressed 
 with what survived of my Biblical education. New 
 England training was stUl strong in me. The 
 women of Bethlehem, carrying baskets on their 
 heads, with flowing robes of calico, were very 
 beautiful and healthy-looking; but when I got to 
 Bethlehem, and with my farm and cattle experience 
 looked for stalls and mangers, I was, of course, 
 disgusted at being taken down two flights and 
 shown an old wet cave as the place where the 
 
 212 
 
TO INDIA AND THE HOLY LAND 
 
 Saviour was said to have been born. I have kept 
 the morals of the old Methodists, I hope, but my 
 superstitious notions were disappearing every 
 minute I spent in Jerusalem. 
 
 Being in the Holy Land, all the stories I had 
 heard in boyhood came back to me. I thought of 
 Moses's life. I had been taught to obey his com- 
 mandments, but as a child I saw that he had 
 broken in his own life those which say, thou shalt 
 not steal, thou shalt not commit adultery — had told 
 Aaron, his brother-in-law, to make a golden image, 
 and had got up a trust by means of which he might 
 get all the gold. " Thou shalt do no murder," says 
 the law — ^but he killed an Egyptian and hid him in 
 the sand. " Thou shalt not conunit adultery " — 
 but he committed that sin. 
 
 And so on to the end. These commandments 
 were taught by the man who had broken every one 
 of them himself. Aaron, who wished to be in- 
 cluded in the gold-corner into which Moses had 
 refused him admittance, sought to make money in 
 some other way, and said, " If we are going for 
 forty years into the wilderness, we shall want salt 
 provisions," and so bought up all the hogs he could 
 find, without letting Moses into the comer. Then 
 Moses spoiled the whole game by the law that no 
 Jews should eat pork! In the Holy Land these 
 things all came into my mind. You can imagine 
 how I felt sixteen years after, when arrested and 
 detained for six months in the Tombs for quoting 
 
 213 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 three columns of the Bible (about which I shall 
 speak later). 
 
 At night I wanted my clergyman companion 
 to gain an idea of night scenes in the East. To 
 make sure that we should not be disturbed, I went 
 to the chief of police for a guide to show us Jeru- 
 salem by candle-light. We went into a dark alley, 
 back of Mount Calvary and the Via della Eosa, 
 when the man's movements became suspicious, I 
 could not see why a policeman should be so care- 
 ful where he went. My object had been to see the 
 demi-monde of Syria. 
 
 When we got to the door, the policeman tried to 
 shut the door, but I put my foot in the way. I 
 asked MacFarlane if he was armed. He said he 
 had a Madras dagger. MacFarlane was already 
 in the room and I drew him out. " Those are 
 Bedouins," said I; "I could see their pistols and 
 swords." Intuition told me they were murderers. 
 Sixteen persons had been killed in Nablus in 
 '55-'56. The chief of police was the head of the 
 gang. I immediately saw our consul, and there 
 was a meeting of representatives of the foreign 
 powers, and the whole traffic was exposed. In 
 our case they found the men, and after we left 
 they were executed. 
 
 214 
 
CHAPTER XVI 
 
 IN THE CRIMEA 
 1856 
 
 The voyage from Joppa to Constantinople was 
 a succession of surprises, from Latokea to Lan- 
 arca, Cyprus, Ehodes, and Smyrna. At Beyrout 
 we were the guests of a pasha, the leading man of 
 the place. Henry Kennard, banker, of Heywood, 
 Kennard & Co., of London, who had joined us in 
 Jerusalem, went with us through Syria and was 
 going as far as the Crimea. MacFarlane was still 
 with our party. We had a day off in Beyrout, and 
 went up to Lebanon, inland, where the cedars seem 
 to antedate the olive-trees in the Garden of Geth- 
 semane. 
 
 "When we got to Smyrna we entered a beauti- 
 ful bay, somewhat like that of Rio Janeiro, and I 
 went out on the fortified hill that overlooks the 
 city. I saw from the hill that troops were march- 
 ing on parade, and went off alone to see them. I 
 was told to let my donkey go his own way. He 
 brought me to a place where were about one hun- 
 dred stone steps, almost perpendicular. I had a 
 
 215 
 
MY LITE IN MANY STATES 
 
 little hesitation about going down these steps, but 
 he seemed to know what he was about, and I could 
 do nothing with him but hang on his back. I ex- 
 pected him to tumble, and that would have been 
 the last of me. He didn't miss a step, however, but 
 took me safely to the bottom. I thought of General 
 Putnam's stone-step ride. If he had only had a 
 Turkish donkey he would have missed being a 
 hero. 
 
 My donkey seemed to know more than I about 
 the streets of Smyrna, and I gave him the rein. 
 He took me past the sentinels to the parade 
 ground, as he appeared to know the password, and 
 across the parade, which was against regulations. 
 When wie arrived at the center of the ground, he 
 began very peculiar operations, as if he had been 
 with Barnum. Here was a donkey that would 
 have made a fortune for a circus. The soldiers 
 were coming up in platoons, when the donkey be- 
 gan to stand on his hind feet, and then on his fore 
 feet. The roar of the advancing regiment con- 
 vinced me that I was in a tight place. I got off 
 his back and walked alone on the opposite side, and 
 then escaped through a gate. I have never heard 
 of the obstinate animal since. 
 
 From Smyrna to Constantinople we passed 
 among famous Greek islands — Rhodes, and Chios, 
 where twenty-two thousand Greeks were killed by 
 the Turks— but we had not time to stop at any of 
 them. At Constantinople I preferred to take pas- 
 
 216 
 
IN THE CRIMEA 
 
 sage in a transient steamer, instead of waiting 
 for the Government boat. I stopped here only 
 to see our minister, Carroll Spence, of Balti- 
 more, and then hurried on through the Mar- 
 moro Strait and the Bosporus, and into the Black 
 Sea, and there found an immense fleet of trans- 
 ports, from the port of Sebastopol. I was de- 
 lighted to see alongside of one another three of our 
 Boston clippers, built by Donald Mackay in East 
 Boston, that had brought French troops from 
 France : the Great Eepublic, Captain Limeburner, 
 the Monarch of the Seas, Captain Gardner, and the 
 Ocean Queen of clippers. Captain Zerega. Ships 
 filled the little bay, bows and sterns touching the 
 shore on one side and the other. Not one could 
 have got out in case of fire. 
 
 We immediately got horses to go out to Bala- 
 klava, and there I was glad to meet my old friend. 
 Captain Furber, of the Black Ball Line and the 
 Ocean Clipper, who gave me a state-room and all 
 the courtesies of his ship. He had come for the 
 French. Kennard went with the British. Horses 
 and attendants were furnished me by the French 
 generals free of cost. 
 
 My object in going to the Crimea was to specu- 
 late in munitions of war, which I supposed would 
 be sold for a mere bagatelle. But the armies took 
 their material away with them— English, Eussian, 
 Turkish, French, Sardinian— so there was no 
 <;hance for business there. The British troops 
 
 217 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 were in rags and tatters. Their new uniforms 
 had not arrived, and their shoes were worn out. 
 I went on board one of the clippers and spoke 
 about the shoes not having arrived. "What!" 
 exclaimed the captain ; " I am loaded with shoes I 
 I have been here six months." " Have you noti- 
 fied the commissary?" "Yes." What could I 
 do? All this was afterward described by "Bull 
 Eun " Eussell. He was then the correspondent of 
 the London Times, and so exposed the misman- 
 agement of the war that ships were sent with pro- 
 visions, uniforms, and everything, after the war 
 was over. 
 
 Through the courtesy of French oflficers, I 
 visited the city of Sebastopol, a ten-mile journey 
 from Balaklava, and saw the twenty-one-gun 
 battery, the Redan, and the Malakoff, and, of 
 course, the ruin of the famous city. I could 
 see the masts of the ships at the entrance of the 
 bay, the fleet that had been sunk by the Russians 
 to block the channel. Here they had crossed in the 
 night to the Star Fort on the opposite side, which 
 was strongly fortified. It would have been almost 
 impossible for the allied armies to interfere with 
 the Russians. They had made up their minds to 
 fight it out to the end. 
 
 The French zouave commander got up a ban- 
 quet for me with twenty of the officers of all the 
 armies — Turkish, French, English, Sardinian, and 
 Russian. I did something to stir up the battle 
 
 218 
 
m THE CRIMEA 
 
 spirit again, and several times almost got them 
 fighting over the table, especially when I asked 
 some question that brought a reply from the 
 zouave general of the Ninety-sixth regiment of 
 Algiers. He rose and said to the Englishmen 
 who had disputed his word: "You were asleep 
 at the Alma, you were late at Inkerman, late at 
 Balaklava, ran from the Eedan and at Chernaya." 
 This of course roused the English officers, and 
 we had to pour oil on troubled waters. 
 
 There were two princes among the Eussians, 
 and of course they were delighted to see the 
 allies fighting among themselves. They helped me 
 in stirring up the quarrel. I made them admit 
 that Todleben's earthworks were a new feature 
 in war — ^baskets of earth used for forts on the in- 
 side of Sebastopol, put up impromptu, and hold- 
 ing these armies so long at bay. In the Eedan it 
 was complete slaughter, two thousand persons be- 
 ing killed. MacMahon in the Malakoff saw at 
 once that it was not a close fort, and said, " J'y 
 suis, j'y reste." Speaking of MacMahon, a very 
 singular thing has been suggested. Put together 
 a half dozen faces of French notables — Mac- 
 Mahon, de Lesseps, Alexandre Dumas {pere et 
 fils), Victor Hugo, President Faure, and add my 
 portrait, and you could hardly tell which was 
 which. 
 
 Tennyson has given to the charge of the Light 
 Brigade at Balaklava the power of his name and 
 10 219 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 genius, but that fight has been a terribly exagger- 
 ated affair, so far as massacre was concerned. 
 Only one third was killed, with nearly one half 
 the horses. In our civil war, where a million 
 men were killed, at the cost of a billion dollars, 
 from the firing into Sumter to Appomattox, on 
 both sides, there were many charges where the 
 slaughter was proportionately greater than that. 
 Take Pickett's charge at Gettysburg, where a whole 
 division was mowed down — or Custer's command 
 (with Sitting Bull, in the Black Hills), aU mas- 
 sacred, with the exception of one man. 
 
 220 
 
CHAPTEE XVII 
 
 HOME ONCE MORE AND THEN A RETURN TO EUROPE 
 
 1856 
 
 From the Crimea I returned to England and 
 thence to America. Wilson, of the White Star 
 Line, wished to construct the largest clipper ever 
 built in England. It was to be called the George 
 Francis Train, as I had had in my consignment 
 or in my charge the fastest four clippers in the 
 world — Flying Cloud, eighty-six days from New 
 York to San Francisco; Sovereign of the Seas, 
 which stood in my name at the custom-house 
 (2,200 tons), which made three hundred and 
 seventy-four miles under sail in one day, a thing 
 never known before by a sailing ship; the Red 
 Jacket, built at Eockland, Maine; and the Light- 
 ning, built by Donald Mackay at East Boston, 
 which sailed from Liverpool to Melbourne in 
 sixty-three days; but I declined the White Star 
 honors. 
 
 The day after my arrival in New York, in July, 
 '56 — I had been away since February, '53 — the 
 Herald had sixteen columns, about three pages, 
 
 221 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 from me in one issue, an amount of space I 
 think that no correspondent before or since has 
 had — either from India, China, or Japan, I had 
 arrived ahead of my own mail. The members of 
 the present staff of the Herald have no idea that 
 the man whom they have looked upon as a lunatic 
 was sufficiently sane to make a big sensation in 
 their paper in July, '56. The present James 
 Grordon Bennett was then only fifteen years old. 
 Frederick Hudson had entire charge of the paper 
 under the elder Bennett. Mr. Bennett, wishing to 
 put his son ahead, pensioned Mr. Hudson, who 
 went into the country to live, and, in crossing a 
 railway track, was killed. Mr. Bennett gave me a 
 very kind reception. He asked if I desired to go 
 to Congress. " No," I said. " Don't you want to 
 publish books?" "Yes, but I am going abroad 
 now, as I am not through with my business in Aus- 
 tralia." 
 
 Here, at twenty-seven years of age, I had trav- 
 eled over the world, and had had these great busi- 
 ness experiences. I had been called, as a sneer- 
 ing term, "Young America." I kept the name, 
 and used it afterward in all my newspaper work. 
 But Freeman Hunt, of the Merchants' Magazine, 
 who edited my books, changed it to An Ameri- 
 can Merchant in Europe, Asia, and AustraUa, 
 thinking the title Young America not dignified 
 enough. This book was a series of letters from 
 Java, Singapore, China, Bengal, Egypt, the Holy 
 
 222 
 
HOME ONCE MOEE 
 
 Land, the Crimea, England, Melbourne, Sydney, 
 etc. It was published in '57 in New York and 
 London. 
 
 From New York I went to Boston, and es- 
 caped my first opportunity of going to jail by giv- 
 ing bail bond for $80,000. George B. Upton repre- 
 sented my house in Boston and was in Europe. He 
 was traveling at the time, and his people instructed 
 him to have me arrested for any interest the Bar- 
 ings might have, through open credits, in our firm. 
 Colonel Enoch Train and Donald Mackay signed 
 the bond. The claim was that I had made a 
 lot of money, and had not given to others what 
 was their due. I had never used the Barings' 
 credit out in Australia, and returned to them 
 $50,000. So far as Upton was concerned, I had 
 paid my partner, Captain Caldwell, $8,000 in cash, 
 when he went home in the Eed Jacket only a few 
 months after his arrival in Melbourne. This was 
 my first false arrest and legal prosecution. From 
 this time for many years I kept getting into jail, 
 for no crime whatever. 
 
 After looking over the accounts in the books for 
 '57, Upton came the next year to me in New York, 
 just as I was going abroad, and said, " We are in a 
 tight place in Boston." Imagine my astonish- 
 ment when he asked if I was willing that any little 
 account coming to me should be placed to my 
 credit, and used to help him out. Considering 
 that I had been arrested for $80,000, I thought 
 
 223 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 this peculiar. He gave me a credit for £500 on the 
 Barings, however; it seems that "$6,000 had been 
 sent to me "by the house in Melbourne while I was 
 away. Inasmuch as I have never since inquired 
 how my account stood with Upton, I should like 
 to have his son look at the books, and see what may 
 be due me. 
 
 In '56 I took my wife and baby Sue to Paris. I 
 had observed in Europe that the Grermans were 
 more far-sighted than we in learning many lan- 
 guages. The bright German boy in a coimtry 
 town is taught French and English, and then 
 sent to Bremen or Hamburg to get the practical 
 education of merchants in great shipping houses. 
 Afterward, he is sent to England to find out other 
 modes of doing business. Then perhaps he estab- 
 lishes a house in New York, I found that German 
 merchants, all over the world, were far ahead of 
 ours, because of their practical training and mas- 
 tery of languages. Seeing, in my travels around 
 the world, that the German was everywhere, I de- 
 termined to learn languages, and went to Paris for 
 that purpose. 
 
 We took rooms at the Grand H6tel de Louvre, 
 in the Rue de Rivoli, and I at once went to Galign- 
 ani, of " The Messenger," to find teachers. Un- 
 der a Catholic priest, I studied Italian and French 
 at the same time, which may account for my hav- 
 ing a little of the Italian accent in my French. 
 I have never known an Italian who was able to 
 
 224 
 
HOME ONCE MOKE 
 
 master the French accent. I also learned Portu- 
 guese and Spanish. This gave me the four Latin 
 languages. I had, in '48, studied German under 
 Gasper Biitts, who came to America during the 
 Revolution of '48 with Carl Schurz. German 
 texts and pronunciation I had to practise every 
 day, but as I have never had a fancy for that lan- 
 guage, I have not kept it up. I sent my sons to 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main to learn German, and after- 
 ward to Seelig's College in Vevey, Switzerland, 
 in '71, to learn Italian and French. My daughter 
 Sue was sent to Stuttgart, and she is thoroughly 
 acquainted with both German and French. 
 
 225 
 
CHAPTEE XVni 
 
 MEN I MET IN PARIS 
 
 1856-1857 
 
 My life in Paris seems now like a romance to 
 my memory. I was twenty-seven, and thought I 
 had seen all the world, but discovered how little 
 I knew, compared with others whom I met. I 
 found, as in all these foreign cities, that notables 
 in society and in public life often did not know one 
 another. At Count Arthur De La More's, of the 
 Orleanist staff, I found the greatest hostility 
 toward the Emperor. One day we were sitting in 
 the entresol, at his rooms on the Rue de Rivoli, 
 opposite the Tuileries, and he asked me whether I 
 could see that man walking on the veranda of the 
 Tuileries. I said I could, to which he replied: 
 " Could one of your sharpshooters pick him off 
 from here?" I looked up with surprise, and 
 thought I saw the future assassin of the Em- 
 peror, but said nothing. I told him some of our 
 men like Daniel Boone and David Crockett could 
 have picked off a squirrel as far as they could see 
 it. It was a little while after this that the Orsini 
 
 226 
 
MEN I MET m PARIS 
 
 bomb was fired at the Emperor. This was be- 
 cause Napoleon, though a member of the Carbo- 
 nari, had " gone back on " the order ; but his life 
 was spared. 
 
 Prince Galitzen of Eussia gave me a dinner 
 at the Cafe Philippe, where I met some of the 
 Eussian nobility. These men were the cleverest 
 I have ever seen. All were good hnguists, artists, 
 statesmen, soldiers, men of the world. At Prince 
 Czartoryski's I met leading Poles, who were still 
 revolutionists, plotting against Eussia. One of 
 these, a man of about eighty, said to me : " In my 
 teens I went to St. Petersburg, saw Alexander 
 and told him the condition of Poland. I asked 
 him what he was going to do. He asked me what 
 I should reconmaend. ' There are two ways of 
 governing Poland,' I said ; * through interest or 
 through fear.' Fear was the policy adopted. When 
 I was forty, I again went to St. Petersburg. 
 Nicholas was Czar, and he repeated the same ques- 
 tion. I again answered, 'through interest or 
 through fear.' When I was sixty I met another 
 Emperor, and the same question was put to me, 
 and I made the same reply. Poland is parti- 
 tioned," he added; "and we are now only a 
 memory." 
 
 At Leon Lillo's I met many Spaniards of the 
 nobility and the ruling family. I still think that 
 Lillo was the son of Queen Cristina, by her hus- 
 band the Duke of Eianzares, a common soldier, of 
 
 227 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 physical beauty, whom she had taken from the 
 ranks and made a Duke. I used to meet him at 
 Lillo's. Cristina, who was then probably the 
 richest woman in the world, had bought Malmai- 
 son, the palace of Josephine. It was through this 
 connection that I met Salamanca, the Spanish 
 Rothschild, her banker. I shaU speak later of 
 how I got the funds to build the Atlantic and 
 Great Western Railway, connecting the Erie Rail- 
 way with the Ohio and Mississippi Railway. 
 
 At the Marquis del GrUlo's I met his wife, the 
 great Italian tragedienne, Ristori, whom I had seen 
 on the stage in " Elizabeth." I met leading men of 
 the Second Empire at the house of the Count de 
 Rouville, including Persigny, the Foreign Min- 
 ister, Count de Momy, the Minister of War, 
 Walewski, Prince " Plon-Plon," and Mocquard, pri- 
 vate secretary to the Emperor. At Triat's Gym- 
 nase I met the men who afterward organized the 
 Commune. At the house of Mrs. Winfield Scott, 
 who was then living in Paris, I met many Ameri- 
 cans, and at Castle's I saw " Bohemia." 
 
 Meeting all these different persons, distin- 
 guished in the great world of Paris, I was gaining 
 the knowledge that would make me a walking 
 library of political affairs in Europe. This made 
 up for the loss of a college career. Practical ex- 
 perience and observation were my university. 
 
 That year, '56-'57, was a very important time 
 in my life in many ways. I received an invitation 
 
 228 
 
MEN I MET IN PARIS 
 
 to a ball at the Tuileries, engraved in the usual 
 style, on a card a foot square, and bearing the 
 enormous seal of the Second Empire. For the 
 first time in my life I appeared in borrowed 
 plumes. I hired what I call a " flunkey " suit, and 
 paid forty-five francs for it. In this I was pre- 
 sented. It was not a civil nor a military suit, but 
 a sort of mongrel affair, that served me as a 
 court costume. Of course, my wife appeared in 
 proper evening dress. There were four thousand 
 persons present, the highest in the society of 
 Paris, mintary and civil — ambassadors in their re- 
 galia, regimental officers in their different uni- 
 forms, and the aristocracy in their robes. There 
 were also Algerian officers. Although the Tuile- 
 ries was very large, the four thousand guests 
 found themselves in much crowded rooms. 
 
 During this reception and ball I suddenly felt 
 some cold substance going down my back. Putting 
 my hand to my neck, I f oimd there a cupful of ice- 
 cream that an Algerian officer had dropped, with 
 the usual "Pardon, monsieur." I assured him 
 it was all right, but the ice-cream gave me a decid- 
 edly boreal feeling. 
 
 The ball was in the usual court style, and I 
 shall not undertake to describe it. After some 
 time had passed, all at once there was silence, in- 
 stead of the terrible hum. It was the presage of 
 something important, I felt sure. The wax candles 
 in the chandeliers burned brilliantly, and we were 
 
 229 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 all on the qui vive to know what was coming. Look- 
 ing toward the great folding doors at the end of 
 the hall, a lady appeared. It was the age of crino- 
 line, and she must have had a circumference of 
 eight feet. She was the Emperor's favorite, the 
 Countess Castiglione. The sensation she made 
 was tremendous. 
 
 I should mention that before this happened I 
 had been presented to the Empress. We were all 
 ranged in diplomatic order for presentation, and 
 when it came my turn she seemed particularly 
 courteous, saying in English to me : " You speak 
 French very fluently." To this I replied: 
 " "When I am able to speak French, your Majesty, 
 as well as you speak English, I shall be willing to 
 trust myself in that language. In the meanwhile 
 let me ask you to talk as you prefer." All those 
 presented seemed surprised to see me talking with 
 the Enipress, as it was, I believe, unusual for a 
 foreigner and a newcomer to be thus honored. She 
 was very gracious, and made me feel as much 
 at home as if I had been in my own family. 
 The introduction of the crinoline had been made by 
 the Empress before the birth of the Prince Impe- 
 rial. Anti-Imperialists had been busy gossiping 
 about the coming event, and intimated that it was 
 impossible the Emperor could become the father 
 of a child. 
 
 After the Countess Castiglione appeared in 
 such dare-devil fashion, in the presence of the 
 
 230 
 
MEN I MET m PARIS 
 
 whole court, the Empress appeared in much differ- 
 ent mood. The next day she went to England, 
 and became the guest of the Queen for three 
 weeks. 
 
 The Italian war was then going on, and I was 
 desirous of mastering the Italian language, in 
 order to carry out certain contracts I had made 
 with the Emperor. McHenry was my partner, 
 and I had written to him that the Emperor 
 wanted a half dozen steamers immediately. The 
 French needed the boats for the transport of pro- 
 visions. McHenry was in London, and in my let- 
 ter I told him there was no doubt that the war 
 would eventually be won by France and Italy. 
 This was just after the great battles of Magenta 
 and Solferino. He sent me back this despatch: 
 " La paix est signe." You can imagine my sur- 
 prise. It shows that the most careful of men 
 sometimes make mistakes. 
 
 Mr. Seward, afterward Secretary of State, 
 was in Paris in '56-'57, and I showed him as much 
 of Paris as I dared. There were certain places 
 to which I did not feel authorized to take him, but 
 I managed to make him see a great deal of Paris 
 that would have been sealed to him had he under- 
 taken to go about this microcosmic city without 
 a guide. 
 
 Mr. Seward astonished me very much one day 
 by a remark showing his detachment from the 
 great world of European thought and power. I 
 
 231 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 said to him : " Mr. Seward, how would you like to 
 see M. Lamartine?" "Which Lamartine?" he 
 coolly asked, as if there could he more than one. 
 " Why, Alphonse de Lamartine," said I. " There 
 is only one Lamartine in France or in the world." 
 He asked if I knew him. I replied that Lamartine 
 gave receptions twice a week, and that I had at- 
 tended them during the winter. As there was a 
 reception that day, I asked Mr. Seward if he cared 
 to go. He very gladly accepted the invitation, and 
 we went together. 
 
 Lamartine, it will he rememhered, married an 
 English lady, a most charming, lovely woman ; but 
 be had never learned to speak English. He was 
 like Hugo in this respect, and thought it was not 
 worth while to struggle through the intricacies 
 and difficulties of the spelling and pronunciation. 
 But Madame Lamartine spoke French very 
 fluently and accurately. 
 
 I have observed as an invariable rule, from 
 one end of the world to the other, that if one per- 
 son addresses another in a language the second 
 person does not understand, the talker thinks he 
 can make himself understood by simply bawling 
 out his sentences like a town-crier. Mr. Seward 
 was no exception to this common frailty among 
 mankind. When he saw that Lamartine did not 
 understand his English, he placed his hand over 
 his mouth, and shouted into M. Lamartine's ear. 
 The great Frenchman smiled at each discharge, 
 
 232 
 
MEN I MET IN PAEIS 
 
 but could not reply. At last I said, " Mr. Sew- 
 ard, M. Lamartine is not deaf, but he does not un- 
 derstand English. If you will permit either 
 Madame Lamartine or myself to interpret for you, 
 there will be no difficulty." Mr. Seward con- 
 tinued to shout for some time, but finally broke 
 down. Madame Lamartine and I then translated 
 his remarks to Lamartine. After this we got along 
 finely, and a most delightful conversation followed 
 between the two men. 
 
 It had been my intention, when I came to Paris, 
 to go on to Australia ; but as I passed through the 
 various countries of Europe I saw that the shadow 
 of panic and failure rested upon all. I had, in- 
 deed, completed many arrangements for going 
 back to Melbourne, and I had got a letter of 
 credit from the representative in London of the 
 Bank of New South Wales for £20,000; but the 
 project fell through, because of the panics and 
 disasters of the year '57. 
 
 In '58 — I may mention at this place — I had a 
 few months' leisure on my hands, and decided to 
 give my wife and her stepmother, Mrs. George T. 
 M. Davis, a trip about Europe. We traveled 
 through France, Italy, Austria, and Germany. At 
 Leghorn we went to witness a spectacular exhibi- 
 tion of the storming of Sebastopol. It was a mag- 
 nificent spectacle, realistic in the extreme. No one 
 was astonished, when, at the very point where the 
 city was taken and the fort blown up, a terrific 
 
 233 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 burst of light appeared. Instantly thereafter we 
 discovered that the explosion had been too real. 
 The theater was ablaze. Of course there was a 
 wild rush for the doors. Panic followed, and 
 while we were crushed and trampled in the press, 
 we got off finally with only severe bruises. The 
 official report next morning gave the casualties as 
 forty killed and one hundred injured ; but the Gov- 
 ernment suppressed the facts. The dead and in- 
 jured far outnumbered these figures. 
 
 We had an experience in Naples which illus- 
 trated the every-day use of words by the English 
 that to us are offensive. We were aboard one of 
 the dirty little steamboats that were found in that 
 part of the Mediterranean, and, as the weather 
 was somewhat rough, the bilge water had been 
 shaken about in the night, and a terrible odor per- 
 vaded every nook of the vessel. An English 
 nobleman was aboard, and in the morning, wish- 
 ing to say something agreeable to my wife's step- 
 mother, he said: "Madam, didn't you observe a 
 dreadful stink in your state-room last night?" 
 The blood of all the Pomeroys was fired by this 
 supposed indelicacy. " Sir ! " Mrs. Davis retorted, 
 stepping back with great hauteur. I immediately 
 advanced and said, " My dear madam, the gentle- 
 man meant no harm. The English prefer that 
 ' nasty ' word to something more refined and less 
 shocking. He meant no insult." The Englishman 
 explained ; but the lady was not appeased. 
 
 234 
 
MEN I MET IN PAEIS 
 
 At Rome I was astonished to find a delegation 
 awaiting me. I could not make out what it meant, 
 when I was hailed as a " liberator." There were 
 many " liberators " in the Italy of those days ; and 
 I supposed they mistook me for Mazzini, or Gari- 
 baldi, or Orsini, or some other leader of the peo- 
 ple. "Whom do you think I am?" I asked. 
 " Citizen George Francis Train," they said. This 
 was too much for my credulity. What was worse 
 still, they asked me to go with them. I did not 
 know just where they expected me to go, or what 
 they would expect me to do when I got there. 
 Things were pretty black in Italy just then, and I 
 did not desire to be mixed up in " revolutions," or 
 liberty movements, or conspiracies. However, 
 they assured me that it would be all right, and I 
 consented to go. I went through a dark alley, to 
 their meeting place, and was told more things 
 about the revolution than I cared to know or to 
 remember. It was not a healthful kind of knowl- 
 edge to carry about Italy with one. 
 
 But the curious thing about the affair was that 
 here, as everywhere, these people regarded me as 
 a leader of revolts — Carbonari, La Commune, 
 Chartists, Fenians, Internationals — as if I were 
 ready for every species of deviltry. For fifteen 
 years five or six governments kept their spies 
 shadowing me in Europe and America. 
 
 From Italy we passed into Austria. At 
 Vienna we had the opportunity, through the cour- 
 17 235 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 tesy of some friends near the court, of witnessing 
 a splendid celebration by the Order of Maria 
 Teresa, which was the most gorgeous and most 
 beautiful spectacle I think I have ever seen. We 
 soon returned to London, and then came to 
 America, where I was to resume work on projects 
 and enterprises here. 
 
 236 
 
CHAPTER XIX 
 
 BUILDING THE ATLANTIC AND GREAT WESTERN 
 RAILWAY 
 
 1857-1858 
 
 The great project of a connecting railway be- 
 tween the Eastern and the Middle Western States 
 had been in my mind for some years. Queen 
 Maria Cristina's fortune, which was then the 
 greatest possessed by any woman in the world, 
 seemed to me to offer a solution of the problem. 
 I had no idea, of course, of attempting to use her 
 fortune in any schemes of my own and for my 
 own interest, but I saw at once that I could utilize 
 her idle wealth to the tremendous advantage of 
 the United States and, at the same time, render a 
 service to her. 
 
 The Queen had had a large quantity of funds 
 in the old United States Bank that President Jack- 
 son smashed, and James McHenry, who was con- 
 nected with me in many enterprises, learned that 
 she had taken as securities some coal lands in 
 Pennsylvania. I saw the Duke of Eianzares, the 
 guardsman Fernando Munoz, whom Maria Cris- 
 
 237 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 tina had fallen in love with and made a grandee 
 of her kingdom, and finally married in '44. He had 
 his headquarters at Lillo's in the Square Clary, 
 and he introduced me to the Queen's secretary, 
 Salerno. I suggested to the Spaniards the ad- 
 visability of hunting up these coal lands of the 
 Queen. McHenry had already made arrange- 
 ments for me to go to America with her assistant 
 secretary, Don Eodrigo de Questa, who did not 
 know a word of English. The preliminaries were 
 arranged, and we set out for Liverpool and 
 America. 
 
 One of the first of many difficulties into which 
 poor de Questa fell because of his ignorance of 
 English occurred the first day out from Liverpool. 
 The Spaniard, with a fatuous assumption common 
 to Europeans, thought that whenever he failed to 
 find the exact word he wanted in another tongue 
 than his own, all that was necessary was to use 
 French. The Spaniard asked the steward to get 
 him some fish for breakfast. He knew the Span- 
 ish word would not answer, and could not think of 
 the English word, though he had tried to master 
 it for some time. He then fell back upon the 
 French, and asked for " poisson." Of course, the 
 steward thought he wanted poison, and reported 
 the matter to headquarters, thinking suicide was 
 contemplated. 
 
 De Questa would have had serious trouble but 
 for the thoughtfulness of the steward, who remem- 
 
 238 
 
BUILDING THE ATLANTIC EAILWAY 
 
 bered that I was traveling with him and came to 
 me for advice. "When did he ask for poison? " 
 I inquired. "At breakfast-time," said the stew- 
 ard. " Oh, then, he merely wants fish," and I ex- 
 plained as well as I could to an English steward 
 the meaning of the French word. 
 
 The English of the ignorant classes look upon 
 French very much as a clergyman does upon pro- 
 fanity, or as a missionary regards the muttered 
 charms and incantations of a " voodoo " priestess. 
 De Questa finally got his fish, but he had long be- 
 fore lost his appetite. This adventure discour- 
 aged him so much that he refused thenceforth to 
 try to convey in English, Castilian, or French, 
 any of his desires concerning food, but resorted 
 to the primitive sign language. "When he wanted 
 eggs, he would flap his arms together and cackle 
 like a hen that has just laid an egg. The steward 
 who, perhaps, had never seen two square inches of 
 countryside in his life, thought he was imitating a 
 rooster and laughed until he almost had a fit. De 
 Questa nearly starved. He had, at last, to eat 
 whatever he could find, without trying to seek 
 what he wanted. I explained to him that roosters 
 did not lay eggs ! 
 
 Our destination was Philadelphia. It was 
 there that the Spaniards who were living upon 
 Queen Maria Cristina's property had their head- 
 quarters. I found two of them, Christopher and 
 John Fallon, living in fine houses, with something 
 
 239 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 of a court about them. They had control of about 
 forty thousand acres of coal lands belonging to 
 the Queen. This large tract was situated at a 
 place to which the Fallons had given their name, 
 Fallonville. I at once consulted several of the 
 best lawyers of Philadelphia, among them William 
 B. Reed, later Minister to China, and was ad- 
 vised to go immediately to the lands and see what 
 had been done with them. I made an appoint- 
 ment with John Fallon, and we went out to the 
 mines. I can not now recall exactly where they 
 were, but I remember that we passed through a 
 wilderness, after leaving the train that took us 
 from Philadelphia, and that we had a very long 
 drive in carriages. A railway track had been 
 built through the forest to the mines, and it seemed 
 to me about fifteen miles long. I appeared to John 
 Fallon as a foreigner who was interested in mines 
 and in coal lands in particular, but not, of course, 
 as representing the Queen. 
 
 As soon as I returned to Philadelphia and re- 
 ported what I had learned, my lawyers advised me 
 to go back to Paris and report to the Queen. De 
 Questa and I, therefore, returned as soon as pos- 
 sible. McHenry met me in London, and we went 
 on to Paris together. We had a conference with 
 Lillo and with Don Jose de Salamanca, the Queen's 
 banker, and it was decided that the Queen should 
 take active possession of her immense property 
 at once. I saw that there was a great deal of 
 
 240 
 
BUILDING THE ATLANTIC EAILWAY 
 
 money in the land, and that there was a fine op- 
 portunity for the Atlantic and Great Western 
 Railway, if I could in some way get the use of a 
 portion of this vast coal domain. 
 
 I saw also that my connection with the af- 
 fair had already given me a lever with which 
 I could work to some purpose upon Don Jos6 
 de Salamanca, and that this was the best card to 
 play. 
 
 As soon as possible I went to his banking 
 office and asked for a conference. I had learned 
 enough, in my dealings with bankers and finan- 
 ciers, to know that you must approach them on 
 the right side, from the side of money, and not 
 from that of a mere wish. Accordingly I wrote 
 on my card that I wished to propose a loan of 
 $1,000,000. I really came as a borrower, but cir- 
 cumstances permitted me to play the role of the 
 lender. I was admitted at once, but if I had asked 
 outright for a loan I should have been shown the 
 door. As soon as I was in his presence I said, 
 without preface : " I have no cash in my pockets, 
 nor would you wish it if I had ; but I want to show 
 you something." 
 
 "I understood that you wanted to lend me a 
 million," said the Spaniard. "I do not see the 
 million." 
 
 " You will, when I explain," I said. " I want 
 to use your credit." (I knew that he had none 
 in London and that he could do nothing there.^ 
 
 241 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 " I propose to deposit with you $2,000,000 of the 
 bonds of the Atlantic and Great Western Bailway 
 for $1,000,000 of your notes." 
 
 I knew that the bait of a credit in London 
 would affect him, as the Spanish bankers had long 
 tried in vain to establish their credit in the finan- 
 cial metropolis of the world. 
 
 " Where is this property? " he asked. 
 
 I drew a diagram of the property for him, ex- 
 plaining its location and its relation to other prop- 
 erties and enterprises. I told him of the Erie 
 Eailway, ending at Olean, and the Ohio and Mis- 
 sissippi Eailway from Cincinnati to St. Louis. 
 " There is no connection between these two great 
 highways," I said, "and a highway that will con- 
 nect them will prove a fortune-maker to every one 
 associated with the project." I explained that 
 there were only four hundred miles between the 
 two, and how I purposed filling in this gap. Be- 
 tween the two ends of the completed railways lay 
 three wealthy States. This road has since been 
 reorganized under the name of the New York, 
 Pennsylvania and Ohio, or as it is colloquially 
 called, the " Nyp, and O." Near Olean now exists 
 a town that has the name of my Spanish friend, 
 Salamanca. 
 
 My arguments touched Salamanca, but did not 
 capture him. They paved the way, however, for 
 his complete capitulation a little later. My next 
 step was to go to London and confer with the Ken- 
 
 242 
 
BUILDING THE ATLANTIC RAILWAY 
 
 nards, famous bankers of that city. We arranged 
 that a nephew of the Kennards, a son of Robert 
 William Kennard, then a member of Parliament, 
 and an engineer of note, should accompany me 
 to America and go over the entire ground of the 
 proposed route. 
 
 We came to New York in October, '57, and 
 shortly after we arrived had a conference at the 
 St. Nicholas Hotel, in Broadway, with the men 
 who were most interested in the proposed road. 
 Maps were exhibited, and the plans fully ex- 
 plained. We then left for Olean, where we were 
 met by the contractor in charge of the road, whose 
 name was Doolittle, by Morton the local engineer, 
 and by General C. L. Ward, the president of the 
 road. The whole party took wagons for James- 
 town, forty miles away. At this point we were 
 met by a committee appointed to take care of us 
 and to show us what had been done, and what 
 could be done. This was the program through- 
 out, as we passed on from point to point. Among 
 the men who met us at Jamestown was Reuben E. 
 Fenton, who had just been elected Representative 
 in Congress from that district, and was afterward 
 Governor and United States Senator. The line 
 of the road was followed as far as Dayton, Ohio, 
 where it was proposed to connect with the Cleve- 
 land and Cincinnati Railway. 
 
 At Mansfield there was a great gathering in 
 honor of the occasion. The committees of the 
 
 243 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 three States — New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, 
 were present, and there was speech-making. I 
 made a speech, which is printed in full in 
 " Spread-Eagleism," published in '58. Judge 
 Bartley, afterward famous on the Federal bench, 
 was chairman of the meeting. I asked if there 
 were not some one present from Ohio who could 
 give us a clear statement as to what we could ex- 
 pect. Judge Bartley called on " Mr. Sherman." A 
 tall, spare man arose. It was John Sherman. He 
 made a speech that was clear, direct, and forcible. 
 Among the other speakers were Eobert E. 
 Schenck, of "Emma Mine" fame, who had been 
 elected to Congress recently, and Senator Benjamin 
 F. Wade. 
 
 Just before the close of the meeting I intro- 
 duced Thomas Kennard, the civil engineer, and 
 told the crowd that the road was to be built, and 
 that it would be aided by the money of Queen 
 Maria Cristina of Spain and the great Spanish 
 banker, Salamanca. 
 
 I made a report in London of the work accom- 
 plished in America, and at once began to purchase 
 material for the road. I sought out Mr. Craw- 
 shay Bailey, then a member of Parliament, and a 
 great Welsh iron-master, and he invited me to 
 dine with him and his wife. He had just married 
 a charming young lady. At dinner, I found that 
 Mrs. Bailey spoke French very fluently and that 
 Mr. Bailey did not understand a word of it. So I 
 
 244 
 
BUILDING THE ATLANTIC RAILWAY 
 
 asked permission of the iron-worker to carry on a 
 conversation in Frencli witli Mrs. Bailey. This 
 delighted him very much, for he liked to see that 
 his wife was mistress of a language of which 
 he did not know a single word. This subtle flat- 
 tery of his judgment and taste so pleased him 
 that I was able to close a bargain with him for 
 25,000 tons of iron at $40 the ton— $1,000,000— 
 pledging for the debt bonds of the Atlantic and 
 Great Western Railway, at two to one. This 
 was the first great purchase made after the panic 
 of '57. 
 
 My second purchase was made from the Ebw- 
 vale Company, of Wales. Through Manager Rob- 
 inson I negotiated for 30,000 tons of iron at $40 
 the ton — $1,200,000 — ^pledging bonds of the road 
 at two to one, as with Bailey. 
 
 I have already spoken of Salamanca, the Span- 
 ish Rothschild, and how I had tried to obtain his 
 notes for $1,000,000. I finally succeeded in get- 
 ting this loan, pledging $2,000,000 bonds of the 
 road as security. At this time, no Spanish securi- 
 ties had been negotiated in Lombard Street for 
 years. It was highly necessary for me that these 
 notes of Salamanca should be negotiated. I went 
 to Mathew Marshall, Jr., of the Bank of London. 
 He was the son of the old Mathew Marshall who 
 had signed the notes of the Bank of England for 
 fifty years. I asked him what $50,000 of the notes 
 of Salamanca would be accepted at by the bank. 
 
 245 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 He replied that they would not be accepted at all. 
 "No Spani&h paper can be used in London," he 
 said. 
 
 I then had recourse to a scheme that I had pre- 
 viously worked out with some degree of elabora- 
 tion. I asked Marshall if he would not oblige me 
 by telling me, as a friend, what sixty-day bills of the 
 kind I held would be worth if they could be used. 
 He said they should be handled at six per centum. 
 I telegraphed immediately to McHenry, in Liver- 
 pool, as follows : " Marshall will not touch this 
 paper under six per cent. Will Moseley " (the big 
 financier there) "do it for five?" McHenry an- 
 swered that Moseley would not handle it for less 
 than Marshall's rate, but would take $50,000 at six 
 per centum. 
 
 Upon the strength of this, four hundred miles 
 of railway were built, through three great States, 
 opening up a vast territory, and bringing in for- 
 tunes to a large number of men. My arrange- 
 ment with McHenry was that I was to receive 
 £100,000 as commission. No papers were signed, 
 but I asked McHenry to give me a paper settling 
 $100,000 on my wife, WilUe Davis Train, which 
 was done. After the road was built. Sir Morton 
 Peto came over from England with some London 
 bankers, on McHenry's invitation. McHenry be- 
 lieved in playing the part of a prince when it came 
 to giving an entertainment, and he invited the 
 visitors to a banquet at Delmonico's, then at Four- 
 
 246 
 
BUILDING THE ATLANTIC KAILWAY 
 
 teenth Street and Fifth Avenue. It cost him 
 $15,000. 
 
 As I had not yet secured my commission, I 
 thought this was a good time to collect it, and in- 
 structed my lawyer, Clark Bell, now of No. 39 
 Broadway, to present and press my claim. Mc- 
 Henry was so afraid he would be arrested while 
 these moneyed men were with him that he settled 
 at once, giving me his notes at four months for the 
 balance due. Gold was very high at this time, be- 
 ing $1.90, and as the notes were on London, I 
 found they could be negotiated through McHenry's 
 agents, McAudrey & "Wann. It happened that 
 these agents had lost some $7,000 on information 
 that I had given to them about the result of the 
 battle of Gettysburg; so I agreed to reimburse 
 them for the loss, if they would cash the notes at 
 once, which they did. 
 
 This was in '66, and a singular thing happened. 
 "When the notes fell due in London on the 6th 
 May, that comparatively small amount of gold pre- 
 cipitated something of a panic in the unsteady 
 market of the day. Everything went with a crash. 
 Moseley, the banker of Liverpool, failed for a 
 large sum ; Lemuel Goddard, of London, followed 
 with a loss of as much more ; Lunnon & Company 
 failed for a greater amount; McHenry for some 
 millions ; Sir Morton Peto for other millions ; and 
 Overend, Gurney & Company for another large 
 amount. This showed to me the real shallow- 
 
 247 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 ness and insubstantiality of the great world of 
 finance. It is built upon straw and paper. The 
 secret of its great masters and " Napoleons " is 
 nothing but what is known among other gamblers 
 as " bluff." 
 
 248 
 
CHAPTER XX 
 
 A VISIT TO RUSSIA 
 1857 
 
 The year '57 was a memorable period in my 
 life in many ways. The great panic of the time 
 swept away my ambitious projects as if they had 
 been so many dreams and visions. My contracts 
 in Italy were destroyed by the peace of Villa 
 Franca, and my Australian plans were defeated 
 by the panic. I was therefore ready to take up any- 
 thing that looked promising; but, as I had noth- 
 ing immediately on hand, I took advantage of the 
 enforced leisure to see more of England and the 
 continent of Europe. 
 
 I was in Liverpool at the time the Niagara 
 arrived there for the purpose of laying the At- 
 lantic cable, and suggested giving a banquet to 
 Captain Hudson and Commander Pennock, who 
 was my cousin, and to the other oflScers, at Lynn's 
 Waterloo Hotel. This old landmark, the resort of 
 American ship-captains for many years, was torn 
 down long ago. At this time a letter came to Cap- 
 tain Hudson from the Grand Duke Constantine, of 
 
 249 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Eussia, who had arrived at Dover in his yacht, the 
 Livadia, thanking him for granting permission for 
 three Russian officers to witness the laying of the 
 cable. 
 
 In this little incident I saw an opportunity for 
 visiting Eussia in a semi-official capacity, enabling 
 me to see that country to much better advantage. 
 I said to Captain Hudson that I should like to 
 carry his answer to the Grand Duke. He replied 
 that no answer was required, and that, besides, 
 the Grand Duke had returned to St. Petersburg. 
 I assured him that strict courtesy demanded an 
 acknowledgment of the letter, and that it would 
 make no difference to me about the Grand Duke 
 being in St. Petersburg, as I expected to visit that 
 city. So I persuaded him to let me take an 
 answer to the Eussian Prince. I suggested the 
 phrasing of the letter. The Grand Duke was in- 
 formed that I was visiting Eussia for the purpose 
 of seeing the Nijnii Novgorod fair, and that the 
 United States was always glad to do anything that 
 helped to repay Eussia for her long friendship. 
 
 I immediately started for London, where I 
 called on the American Minister, George M. Dal- 
 las. Mr. Dallas was very courteous, but he evi- 
 dently wanted to have the opportunity of handing 
 the letter to the Grand Duke himself. He offered 
 to see that the communication was expeditiously 
 and properly transmitted. " But," I said, " I de- 
 sire to take it in person." I next called on John 
 
 250 
 
A VISIT TO RUSSIA 
 
 Delane, who was long the editor of the London 
 Times, and he asked me to write him some letters 
 from Russia. Then I left London for The Hague. 
 
 I met at The Hague Admiral Ariens, to whom I 
 had been introduced by Captain Fabius of the 
 Dutch man-of-war, some years before, at Singa- 
 pore. From Holland I went through Germany, 
 visiting Stettin, where I saw the beginnings of 
 those great ship-yards that are now sending out 
 the greatest and fastest vessels on the seas. I 
 took a steamer from Stettin for St. Petersburg. 
 
 At the Russian capital I called at once on our 
 minister. Governor Seymour, of Connecticut. Mr. 
 Seymour made the same suggestion that Mr. 
 Dallas had made. He wished to transmit the let- 
 ter to the Grand Duke. But I was not to be de- 
 prived of the final triumph of my schemes. I 
 told the Minister that I had come all the way from 
 Liverpool, and that it was my purpose to hand the 
 letter to the Grand Duke, if I had to travel all over 
 the Russian empire to do it. I was informed that 
 it was not the season for seeing this high official, 
 as he had left the city and was at his country resi- 
 dence, at Strelna. 
 
 My answer to this was, in true Yankee fash- 
 ion, " Where is Strelna? " I was told that it was 
 just below Peterhof. Then I was advised not to 
 try to see the Grand Duke on that day, as it was 
 Saturday. I resolved to go at once to Strelna, 
 without regard to official days, as I had long since 
 18 251 
 
MY LITE IN MANY STATES 
 
 discovered that the only way to do a thing of this 
 sort was to do it straightway. I got a fast team, 
 and was taken out to the Grand Duke's palace. 
 
 I found the residence situated in the midst of 
 an immense forest park, and sentinels guarded 
 every avenue of approach. These stopped me at 
 every turn, but at every challenge I showed the 
 letter to the Grand Duke and told my errand. I 
 was passed on and on, until I was inside the palace 
 itself. Here I was met by a gentleman in the long 
 frock coat the Russians affect, with his breast cov- 
 ered with military orders. He offered, as soon 
 as I told him my errand, to take the letter to the 
 Grand Duke; but I merely said that it was my 
 purpose to hand it to him in person. I now began 
 to fear that it would require some little time to get 
 into the presence of this high dignitary. I ex- 
 pected to be put off for several days, and then to 
 end up against a secretary or an aide-de-camp, 
 who would finally have me meet some one very 
 near the Grand Duke, but not the Grand Duke 
 himself. 
 
 I was at last shown by this military-looking 
 gentleman into a reception room of the most spa- 
 cious proportions. I sat down and prepared to 
 wait for a secretary or aide-de-camp, when, sud- 
 denly, the door flew open, and, with a rapid step, 
 a handsome, delicate-looking gentleman advanced 
 toward me. I rose, and again went through the 
 tiresome explanation that I had a letter for the 
 
 252 
 
A VISIT TO EUSSIA 
 
 Grand Duke, which I should like to hand to him in 
 person, and so on, and so on. I expected to re- 
 ceive the reply that this gentleman would be 
 greatly pleased to relieve me of the trouble, and 
 was prepared to answer rather severely that I 
 wished to hand the letter to his Grace myself. 
 He said, with a gracious smile, which played like 
 a dim light over his pale features, that he would 
 see that the Grand Dvike received the letter. 
 " But," I said, " I must hand it to him myself." 
 " Is it necessary? " he asked, with his faint smile. 
 " It is," I replied as firmly as I could. 
 
 He stepped back a little, and said, with a bow, 
 " I am the Grand Duke." I almost sank into the 
 chair with surprise. As soon as I recovered my 
 composure, I handed him the letter, which I now 
 felt to be a very small affair for so much cere- 
 mony and trouble. 
 
 While I was waiting for the Grand Duke to 
 read the letter, two great dogs came into the room, 
 from different directions, and immediately began 
 fighting. The Grand Duke said something in 
 Russian, which showed that he at least knew how 
 to speak commandingly. The great beasts, with 
 drooping tails, slunk from his presence like 
 whipped children. 
 
 The Grand Duke Constantine was a younger 
 brother of the Czar, and was a man of many ac- 
 complishments. He spoke with ease and grace 
 seven languages, and his English was quite 
 
 253 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 as grammatical and exact as my own. The Grand 
 Duke, as soon as he had read the letter, called in 
 his aide-de-camp. Colonel Grreig, and said that the 
 colonel would see to it that all my needs were at- 
 tended to immediately, and expressed the wish 
 that he might see me on my return from Nijnii. 
 " I should like to know what you, as an American, 
 think of Russia." 
 
 Colonel Greig took me to the residence of his 
 mother, the widow of Admiral Grreig of the Rus- 
 sian navy, who lived just opposite Kronstadt. 
 !We were driven over in a troika, or droshky, with 
 one horse trotting in the middle and one on 
 each side, in full gallop. It was the most de- 
 lightfully exhilarating drive I had ever taken, and 
 I still think that the troika is the most attractive 
 of all vehicles. At the G^reigs' I was treated with 
 the utmost consideration, and was a guest at a 
 banquet the first night I was there. When I came 
 to prepare for this function, I remembered that I 
 had no change of clothes with me, as I had come 
 out from St. Petersburg in a great hurry. 
 
 In this dilemma, I turned to Colonel Greig and 
 explained that it was not possible for me to attend 
 the banquet as I had no dress clothes with me. He 
 looked me over, and replied: "I think we are 
 about the same size. Suppose you try one of my 
 suits ? " I accepted the offer at once, and found 
 that his suit fitted me as well as my own. The 
 banquet was a great affair, with a vast concourse 
 
 254 
 
A VISIT TO KUSSIA 
 
 of " skis," " offs," " neffs," and so on — little tag- 
 ends of words by which one may tell a Eussian 
 name, even if it were possible not to tell it from 
 its general appearance and sound without them. 
 
 After a few days at the Greigs', I left for Mos- 
 cow, where I was received by Prince Dombriski, 
 brother-in-law of the Emperor. The old city of 
 Moscow impressed me more than any other city 
 of Europe. It seemed to belong to quite another 
 world and to a different civilization. There is 
 something primitive and prehistoric about it — 
 elemental in its sombemess and in its grandeur. 
 I was astonished to find in the Kremlin a portrait 
 of Napoleon at the battle of Borodino. 
 
 In going from the capital to Moscow over the 
 straight line of railway, I heard much of the way 
 that the Czar Nicholas had built the road. It is 
 said that he summoned to him his chief contractor 
 and engineer, Carmichael, and asked him to make 
 specifications for the line as arranged for between 
 the two cities. The Czar confidently expected 
 that he was being deceived about all matters of 
 this kind, and was prepared for fraud in this en- 
 terprise. Carmichael drew up elaborate specifi- 
 cations, which Nicholas saw at once were entirely 
 too elaborate, and gave abundant room for " pick- 
 ings." He turned to Carmichael and asked if the 
 specifications were all right. Carmichael assured 
 Tiim they were. " All right, then," said Nicholas, 
 " I shall turn them over, just as they are, to Major 
 
 255 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Whistler." The Major was the uncle of the 
 famous artist of to-day. Whistler built the road 
 on Carmichael's specifications, and made a for- 
 tune, which has been the foundation of a half 
 dozen family estates — the Winans, Harrison, 
 .Whistler estates, et al. 
 
 I observed a peculiar effect of the direct 
 method of the Czar in building a straight road to 
 Moscow. All the big cities and even the prosper- 
 ous and important towns had, without exception, 
 been left at varying distances from the line of 
 railway. At the little stations on the route the 
 Eussians would get off and get hot water in samo- 
 vars and make tea, each of them carrying a sup- 
 ply of tea in bricks, with square loaf sugar in their 
 pockets. 
 
 Nijnii Novgorod I found a wonderful city. 
 There, on the "Mother" Volga, as the Russians 
 call it, I saw the origin of all the world's fairs and 
 expositions, in this great fair, at which the na- 
 tions of a world unknown to Europe and America 
 assemble for traffic and barter. More than 
 100,000,000 rubles, or, roughly, $50,000,000, 
 change hands in six weeks. There the traveler, 
 who is too indolent or too poor to see the remote 
 tribes of the earth, may have all these strange and 
 outlandish races come to him, on the banks of the 
 Volga. It was a marvelous experience to me, and 
 I considered it as well worth a trip around the 
 world to see Nijnii Novgorod alone. 
 
 256 
 
A VISIT TO KUSSIA 
 
 Some time afterward, when I was in England, 
 I received a letter from Baron Bruno, the Russian 
 Ambassador, enclosing a letter from Colonel 
 Greig, the aide-de-camp of the Grand Duke Con- 
 stantine. He said that the Grand Duke had 
 read my book. Young America Abroad, with inter- 
 est. The Grand Duke, he said, was greatly 
 pleased with my descriptions of Eussia, with my 
 exposure of the Crimean fiasco, and with my pre- 
 dictions as to the future development and greatness 
 of the country. He added that the Eussian Gov- 
 ernment would like to have me visit the region of 
 the Amur, Petropauloffski and Vladivostok, and 
 to make a report of the prospects of far-eastern 
 Siberia. 
 
 The Government proposed to make all the 
 arrangements for me, so that I could travel in 
 luxury and leisure ; but I could not then undertake 
 so extended an enterprise, besides I have ever 
 preferred to follow my own ideas rather than those 
 of others. I desired to pursue original lines of in- 
 vestigation, to go over new routes of travel and of 
 trade, to explore corners of the world that had not 
 been worn into paths by the myriad feet of travel- 
 ers. I have always felt hampered in trying to 
 carry out the suggestions of others. I have found 
 that there is but one course for me, if I am to suc- 
 ceed, and that is to follow my own counsel. I 
 must be myself, untrammeled, unfettered, or I 
 fail. If I had gone to Eastern Siberia for the 
 
 257 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 Eussian Govenuneirt, I might have succeeded in 
 the way the Government expected; but the chances, 
 I consider, would have been against me. If I had 
 gone there at my own motion, I might have 
 created a sensation by exploiting that vast and 
 magnificent region, which must soon play a tre- 
 mendously important part in the history of the 
 world. 
 
 258 
 
CHAPTER XXI 
 
 BUILDING THE FIRST STREET-RAILWAYS IN 
 ENGLAND 
 
 1858 
 
 In '58, when I visited Philadelphia on business 
 of Queen Maria Cristina, of Spain, I observed the 
 network of street-railways in that city, which 
 then, perhaps, had the most perfect system of sur- 
 face transportation in the world, I was struck with 
 the idea of the great convenience these railways 
 must be to business men and to all workers, and 
 wondered why London, with so many more persons, 
 had never had recourse to the street-railway. At 
 that time there was not an inch of " tramway," or 
 street-railway, in Great Britain, or anywhere out- 
 side of New York and Philadelphia. I stored the 
 idea up in my mind, intending to utilize it Some 
 day, when I returned to England. 
 
 Before undertaking the work of constructing 
 street-railways in England, I was called upon to 
 do a little financiering for my father-in-law. Colonel 
 George T. M. Davis. Colonel Davis came to me 
 in London and wished me to assist in organizing 
 
 259 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the Adirondack Eailway in upper New York. He 
 had been introduced to Hamilton and Waddell, who 
 had a grant from the New York legislature of 
 600,000 acres in the Adirondacks; but nothing 
 could be done at that time. Later, in '64, 1 organ- 
 ized the Adirondack road, and met General Rose- 
 crans and Cheney, of Little Falls, at the Astor 
 House, for the purpose of building the railway. I 
 subscribed $20,000 for myself and $20,000 for my 
 wife, and got a large sum from my friends. A 
 large party of us went in carriages from the United 
 States Hotel, Saratoga, through the country along 
 the proposed route to Lucerne. George Augustus 
 Sala, who was visiting this country at the time, was 
 with us, also Dr. T. C Durant, president of the 
 Credit Mobilier, and J. S. T. Stranahan, of Brook- 
 lyn. This was the beginning of the Adirondack road, 
 of which Colonel Davis was the president when he 
 died in '88. My plan was to build the road through 
 the entire forest to Ogdensburg, but it was never 
 carried out. This was four decades before the 
 millionaire colonists began flocking in there, the 
 Huntingtons, Astors, Webbs, Eoekefellers, Wood- 
 ruffs, Durants, et al. 
 
 My first efforts in introducing street-railways 
 in England were made in Liverpool. I chose this 
 city because I had been long associated with it and 
 because, as it was the leading seaport of the world, 
 I had a false idea that it was progressive. But I 
 was soon set right as to this estimate of Liverpool. 
 
 260 
 
STREET-EAILWAYS IN ENGLAND 
 
 I recalled, in the hour of discouragement, the great 
 difficulty I had had years hefore, in '50, in get- 
 ting the municipal government to permit us to 
 have lights and fire on the docks at night, in order 
 to facilitate the handling of the very traffic that 
 was the basis of the city's prosperity. Now, 
 when I proposed the laying of a street-railway, I 
 found the leading men of the city just as narrow 
 and just as hopelessly behind the times as they 
 had been in the matter of improving shipping 
 facilities. They would not consider the proposi- 
 tion at all. 
 
 But this did not stop my efforts nor dampen my 
 ardor. I felt that the plan would succeed some- 
 where in England, and I began to look about to 
 see where the best chances of success might be 
 found. All through the year '58 and into '59 I 
 was at work upon my original plan. I had made 
 every possible arrangement for the immediate 
 construction of a railway, if I could only get some 
 municipality to grant the necessary permission. 
 
 Finally, it occurred to me that the man I 
 wanted was John Laird, the progressive and 
 energetic ship-builder, the man who afterward 
 built the Alabama and other Confederate craft, 
 and who was at the time chairman of the Commis- 
 sioners of Birkenhead, just across the Mersey 
 opposite Liverpool. Surely, thought I, here is a 
 man with enterprise enough to appreciate this 
 thing, which means so much for the working peo- 
 
 261 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 pie and all business men. So I went to Mr. Laird, 
 and after a long conference with liini, I made a 
 formal request to the Commissioners for permis- 
 sion to construct a surface railway, or "tram- 
 way," as it is called in England. My proposition 
 was to lay a track four miles long, running out to 
 the Birkenhead Park. I offered to lay the road at 
 my own expense, to pave a certain proportion of 
 the streets through which the line passed, and to 
 charge fares lower than those then charged by the 
 omnibuses. If the line did not then satisfy the city 
 authorities, I was to remove it at my own expense 
 and to place all the streets affected in as good 
 order as when the road was begun. 
 
 I found Mr. Laird as liberal-minded as I had ex- 
 pected, and with his influence, the Board of Com- 
 missioners consented to let me make the experiment. 
 I went to work at once, and the road was pushed 
 through with great despatch. I felt that it ought 
 to get into operation before the 'buses and other 
 transportation companies stirred up too much 
 opposition. As soon as the working people found 
 how comfortable and cheap the new mode of con- 
 veyance was, I felt sure they would stand up for 
 it so strongly as to defeat the efforts of the omni- 
 bus men to tear up the line. 
 
 The "tramway" proved a success from the 
 start, and became as popular as I had expected. 
 It was crowded with passengers at all hours of 
 the day. The road is there to-day; and I learned 
 
 262 
 
STREET-KAILWAYS IN ENGLAND 
 
 a curious thing in connection with the line only 
 recently. Twelve years ago the cashier of the 
 restaurant in the Mills Hotel No. 1, Mr. Bryan, 
 was the manager of the street-railway I had built 
 in Birkenhead forty-two years ago. 
 
 Another incident of this period I should record 
 here. I invited to Birkenhead most of the lead- 
 ing journalists and writers of London, having in 
 view, of course, an intended invasion of the 
 great metropolis. While these men were together 
 i suggested the organization of a literary club, 
 and this suggestion was the germ from which 
 grew the Savage Club of London. My speech at 
 the opening of the first street-railway in the 
 Old World will appear in my forthcoming book 
 of speeches. 
 
 As soon as I had completed my work in Bir- 
 kenhead, I went to London, and opened a cam- 
 paign for "tramways" in that metropolis of 
 4,000,000 people. It was a complex business from 
 the first, and I had to make a study of the govern- 
 ment and the conditions, and, above all, of the 
 prejudices of citizens. The first step was to 
 apply to every parish, for the parish there is our 
 ward, and something more, for it has a far greater 
 measure of home rule. Each parish had to grant 
 permission for any tramway that was to invade 
 its ancient and sacred precincts. 
 
 The greatest difficulty was the one I had most 
 'dreaded from the start— the opposition of the 'bus 
 
 263 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 men. There are, or were at that time, 6,000 omni- 
 buses in the streets of London, and in every one 
 of the drivers, and in every one who was inter- 
 ested in the profits of the business, my tramway 
 project had an unrelenting foe. I found that the 
 influence of these men was tremendous, because 
 they reached the masses of the people in a way 
 that I could never hope to do. Their efforts were 
 unremitting. They worked upon the different 
 parish governments, upon the people at large, 
 upon the municipal government, and upon Parlia- 
 ment itself. I believe they had sufficient influ- 
 ence to have carried the war even into the cabinet 
 and to the throne. 
 
 However, as I shall soon relate, the opposition 
 of the 'buses did not prove to be as terrible m the 
 end as I had feared. The heaviest blows came 
 from a higher source. The "people," in Eng- 
 land, as elsewhere, seem very powerful at first, in 
 the beginnings of all enterprises. To oppose 
 them would seem to be inviting destruction. But 
 in the end it is found that the real power is lodged 
 elsewhere, and whenever this real power wants a 
 thing done, the "people" do not exist. The fic- 
 tion that they do exist disappears at once in the 
 clear atmosphere of " exigency." 
 
 The first of these real powers that I had to 
 attack was the Metropolitan Board of Aldermen. 
 I appeared before the board with a carefully pre- 
 pared model of the tramways I proposed. It was 
 
 264 
 
STREET-EAILWAY8 IN ENGLAND 
 
 a sort of public hearing, and I was very closely 
 questioned about the plans of operating the road, 
 the effect its presence in the narrow streets would 
 have in interfering with traffic, the danger of 
 accidents, and so on. There was present a noble 
 lord who, I saw, was fighting desperately against 
 the project. He eyed me closely and made sharp 
 interrogations. When he wished to be particu- 
 larly effective, as is the manner of Englishmen of 
 his class, he would drop his monocle, then read- 
 just it carefully, with many writhings and twist- 
 ings of his eyebrows, and, when the single glass 
 was properly adjusted, half close the other eye 
 and concentrate the full blaze of the monocle upon 
 his victim. If the victim sui^ives this, so much 
 the worse for him, for he will then be subjected to 
 a long drawl and to " hems " and " haws " that 
 would shatter the composure of a Philadelphia 
 lawyer. 
 
 We soon took up the problem of laying the 
 tramway up Ludgate Hill, where the street is ex- 
 ceedingly narrow. His lordship fixed me with his 
 glittering monocle. I saw from which direction the 
 firing would come. After readjusting his monocle, 
 so as to get the range better, he said : 
 
 "May I — ah — ask a question, Mr. — ah — 
 Train?" When an Englishman wants to be sar- 
 castic, and ironical, and cutting, he finds the means 
 readiest to his mind in a pretended forgetting of 
 your name. 
 
 265 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 " That is what I am here for, my lord," I re- 
 plied, as graciously as possible. 
 
 "You know, of course, how very narrow is 
 Ludgate Hill. Suppose that when I go down to 
 the Mansion House in my carriage, one of my 
 horses should slip on your d — d rail, and break his, 
 leg — ^would you pay for the horse? " 
 
 This produced a sensation, for the English 
 love a lord even more than we plain Americans 
 do. As soon as the stir had ceased, I replied, in 
 a voice that carried to the ends of the hall: 
 
 " My lord, if you could convince me that your 
 d — d old horse would not have fallen if the rail 
 had not been there, I certainly should pay for it." 
 This retort caught the audience so happily that 
 the tide swept around my way, to the discomfi- 
 ture of the noble lord. The hearing resulted in my 
 obtaining permission to lay a tramway from the 
 Marble Arch at Oxford Street and from Hyde 
 Park to Bayswater, a distance of one or two miles. 
 
 I soon built other lines, also : one from Victoria 
 Station to Westminster Abbey and the Houses of 
 Parliament, and another from Westminster Bridge 
 to Kennington Gate on the way to Clapham. These 
 were constructed on my patent of a half-inch 
 flange. 
 
 The omnibuses, defeated in this part of the 
 fighting, resorted to peculiar but effective tac- 
 tics. As soon as I laid a portion of my tracks — 
 which was done upon the same terms under which 
 
 266 
 
STREET-KAILWAYS IN ENGLAND 
 
 I had put down the line in Birkenhead — the 'hus 
 drivers tried in every possible way to wreck their 
 vehicles on the rails. They would drive across 
 again and again and take the rails in the most 
 reckless way, in order to catch and twist their 
 wheels. They were very often successful, and 
 there were many accidents of this sort. The ex- 
 citement increased greatly with every foot of 
 track laid down. But the people, as in Birken- 
 head, were tremendously in favor of the tramway. 
 It was such a convenience to them that they sided 
 with me in the fight. The 'bus drivers and com- 
 panies and the aristocracy were against me — the 
 one because my trams interfered with their busi- 
 ness, the other because they owned their private 
 conveyances, and did not like to drive across the 
 rails. I dressed conductors and drivers in the uni- 
 form of volunteers, to which many soldiers ob- 
 jected. In the meanwhile the cars were crowded 
 with passengers at all hours, there being through- 
 out the day a rush such as is seen in New York 
 only in what we call the " rush hours." 
 
 In all this excitement and press of travel, acci- 
 dents were, of course, unavoidable. I dreaded 
 one, as I felt it would be the crucial point. It 
 might turn against me the popular feeling, now so 
 strongly setting in my direction, for the " mob " 
 (so called) of London is fully as excitable and as 
 ungovernable as the "mob" of Paris, and its 
 prejudices are more deeply intrenched. Finally, 
 19 267 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 the dreaded accident came. A boy was killed, and 
 I was arrested for manslaughter. 
 
 In order to appease public feeling, I paid the 
 expenses of the boy's funeral, and did everything 
 that could possibly be done to pay, in a material 
 way, for his death. The accident was entirely un- 
 avoidable, and the tramway was not responsible 
 for it, but there was a great deal of feeling, 
 chiefly due to the agitation of the 'bus drivers. 
 Sir John Villiers Shelley, member of Parliament, 
 a relative of the poet, who was chairman of the 
 Metropolitan Board of Works and the representa- 
 tive of the omnibus people, led the fight against 
 me. We had a terrific struggle. The bill to au- 
 thorize the tramways had gone to Parliament, and 
 this was now defeated by a few votes. I had six 
 of the ablest lawyers of England to represent 
 me (through Baxter, Rose & Norton, solicitors), 
 but the influence of the 'bus men, aided by the sen- 
 timent in certain quarters against me on account 
 of my speeches in favor of the American Union, 
 was too strong for me, and I had to abandon the 
 fight in London. 
 
 I then went to the Potteries in Staffordshire, 
 and there, after renewing the same kind of fight- 
 ing that I had had in London, in every new town I 
 undertook to lay railways in, I succeeded in build- 
 ing seven miles of track through the crockery- 
 making country. Those tracks are there to-day. 
 
 My failure in London, which was to have been 
 268 
 
STREET-KAILWAYS IN ENGLAND 
 
 expected, must be set off by these successes in 
 Birkenhead and in Staffordshire. I am entitled 
 to the credit of laying the first street-railways in 
 England, having to overcome the most formidable 
 of all the enemies of progress — British prejudice. 
 I afterward went to Darlington, where Stephen- 
 son had built his first railway, from Stockton to 
 Darlington, in '29, the year of my birth, and I con- 
 structed a tramway there to connect the two steam 
 railways through that town. 
 
 My Ufe, therefore, spans the entire railway 
 building of the world. The first railway was 
 built the year I was born, and since that time, in a 
 space of seventy-three years, more than 200,000 
 miles of railway have been constructed in the 
 United States alone. In much of this great work 
 I have had some share. I suggested the railway 
 that connects Melbourne with its port, and mapped 
 out the present railway system in Australia thirty- 
 nine years ago ; I organized the Hne that connects 
 the Eastern States with the great Middle West — 
 the Atlantic and Great Western Eailway; and I 
 organized and built the first railway that pierced 
 the great American desert, and brought the At- 
 lantic and Pacific coasts into close touch and led to 
 the development of the far West. 
 
 I may mention here, also, that I built a street- 
 railway in Geneva, Switzerland, which is still in 
 use; and one in Copenhagen, which proved that 
 there was at least something sound in " the state 
 
 269 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 of Denmark." Other railways, as in Sydney and 
 Melbourne, Australia, suggested by me, have been 
 changed from horse to trolley lines. I also sug- 
 gested the road in Bombay, India, which was the 
 first railway in all Asia, now extended. 
 
 It may be of interest to record that when I be- 
 gan building street-railways, I sent to the United 
 States and got the plans of the Philadelphia roads 
 and of the New York Third Avenue line. It was 
 therefore upon the models of American roads 
 that these foreign railways were constructed. 
 
 It is sometimes said that it is reniai^kable that 
 little is known of my connection with these great 
 enterprises — for they were great, and epoch-mak- 
 ing. But my achievements in England, in the 
 pioneer work of building street-railways, is a mat- 
 ter of recorded history. An account of my work 
 there will be found in a book by Dr. Albert Shaw, 
 editor of the Review of Reviews, Municipal Grov- 
 ernment in Great Britain, as well as in other 
 books that deal with the industrial life of the 
 period. 
 
 270 
 
CHAPTER XXII 
 
 ENGLAND AND OUB CIVIL WAR — BLOCKADE RUN- 
 NING 
 
 I HAVE referred already to the antagonism 
 felt toward me in certain English quarters because 
 of my speeches in favor of the Federal American 
 Union in the hour of its danger. Love of country 
 was always stronger in me than love of money, 
 and I let slip no opportunity to defend the cause 
 of the Union and to prove to the English of the 
 upper classes that they were mistaken in suppos- 
 ing that the Confederacy could succeed. Those 
 who were not in England at this period, when the 
 South was in the first flush of its success, and when 
 it seemed likely that England and France would 
 go to the assistance of the South, merely to 
 strengthen themselves by weakening the power of 
 the United States, can not appreciate the extent 
 or the power of British sympathy for the Con- 
 federacy. The element in England that took sides 
 with the South was tremendously influential. I 
 had already felt its power in a personal way 
 through the defeat of my street-railway projects, 
 
 271 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 As soon as I observed the trend of British 
 opinion, I went into public halls and spoke in 
 favor of the Union, and tried to show that right 
 and might were both on the side of the North, and 
 that, no matter how many successes the South 
 might win in the beginning of the war, it would 
 inevitably be crushed beneath the weight of the 
 rest of the country. I did not confine myself to 
 speeches of this sort. I attacked the men who 
 were trading on the war by sending blockade run- 
 ners into Southern ports in violation of the rules 
 of war. Aad so I was in some relation with Lord 
 John Eussell on the one hand and Emperor Louis 
 Napoleon on the other, in the critical days of the 
 Mason-Slidell affair and the discussion of "bel- 
 ligerent rights " of the South. 
 
 Before taking part in this desperate effort to 
 stem the tide of British opinion, and to defeat the 
 efforts of British traders to make money by sell- 
 ing merchandise to the South contraband of war, I 
 placed my wife and children on board a steamer 
 for New York, in order to remove them from 
 troubled scenes. This fight was to cost me the op- 
 portunity of making a fortune of perhaps $5,000,- 
 000, by upsetting my street-railway projects. 
 
 I may mention here that in '58, during the Ital- 
 ian war, I bought the London Morning Chronicle 
 for the French Emperor, paying $10,000 for it, 
 and putting Thornton Hunt, son of Leigh Hunt, 
 in editorial charge, at a salary of $2,000 a year. 
 
 272 
 
ENGLAND AND OUR CIVIL WAR 
 
 It was a daily paper ; and as the Emperor wanted 
 a weekly also, I arranged for him the purchase of 
 the London Spectator at the same price, and put 
 in Townsend (I think that was the name) as 
 editor, at a salary of $2,000 a year. When the war 
 was over, these papers of course passed out of 
 our hands, and the Chronicle made a most savage 
 attack on me in the tramway discussion, taking 
 the part of the omnibus drivers. It again at- 
 tacked me for my exposure of blockade running 
 from British ports. I had given the names of 
 the men interested, the marks of the cargoes, and 
 the destination of the shipments, in a letter that I 
 wrote to the New York Herald. These men 
 thought they had assassinated the United States 
 Republic. 
 
 The feeling against me was so intense at one 
 time that I anticipated an attempt to kill me. 
 Strong influences were brought to bear upon me 
 to stop a paper that I had established in London, 
 with my private secretary, George Pickering 
 Bemis, as manager, for the purpose of disseminat- 
 ing correct news and views about the civU war. 
 Secretary Seward, by the way, sent $100, through 
 his private secretary, Mr. J. C. Derby (who was 
 afterward connected with the house of D. Apple- 
 ton and Company, and wrote his recollections un- 
 der the title. Fifty Tears Among Authors, Books, 
 and Publishers), to assist in keeping up this jour- 
 nal. The intense strain wore upon me to such an 
 
 273 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 extent that I had an attack of insomnia, and almost 
 lost my senses at times. I would not go armed, 
 but relied for defense upon a small cane that I 
 carried under my arm, so grasped by the end in 
 front as to enable me to whirl it about instantly 
 in case I should be attacked from the rear. 
 
 In August, '62, 1 observed that a vessel called the 
 Mavrockadatis was acting suspiciously, and came 
 to the conclusion that she was a blockade ruimer. 
 I beUeved that she was loaded with supplies for 
 the Confederates, and that as soon as she was clear 
 at sea she would make for a Southern port or for 
 some rendezvous with a Confederate ship. I de- 
 termined to frustrate this design, and took pas- 
 sage on her for St. John's, Newfoundland, which 
 I supposed was only her ostensible destination. 
 Of course, I registered under an assumed name, 
 taking the name " Oliver " for the occasion. 
 
 As it turned out, I was wrong. The vessel 
 kept on her course as represented, and we arrived 
 at St. John's, Newfoundland, instead of at a South- 
 ern port. This broke up my program, as I had in- 
 tended, immediately upon reaching a Southern 
 port, to go direct to Eichmond and see if anything 
 could be done to end the war. As I may not have 
 occasion again to refer to this plan, which I had 
 had in mind for some time, I shall speak of it here. 
 I had arranged with the President and with Mr. 
 Seward to go to Eichmond to see what could be 
 done. 
 
 274 
 
ENGLAND AND OUR CIVIL WAR 
 
 My idea was that the Southern leaders were in 
 complete ignorance of the power and resources of 
 the North; they had fancied, because of the great 
 military reputation of Southern soldiers, that it 
 would be comparatively easy to beat Northern 
 troops in the field ; and that, in the last event, Eng- 
 land and France would come to their assistance. 
 I felt confident of convincing Jefferson Davis and 
 other Southern leaders that all these views were 
 erroneous. I thought it would be a simple thing 
 to prove that they could not count on the assist- 
 ance of either England or France, as these two na- 
 tions would not unite, and neither would undertake 
 the task alone. I also thought I could give them 
 such evidence of the great resources of the North, 
 both in men and means, that they would recognize 
 the uselessness of the struggle. Another view I 
 had in mind was that I could impress the Southern- 
 ers with the suggestion that, in the event of their 
 abandoning the contest at that stage, they could 
 obtain far better terms than the victorious North 
 would be content to offer after a long and harrow- 
 ing war. But this was not to be. Stanton heard 
 of our plans, and sent Montgomery Blair to nego- 
 tiate with the Southern leaders, with what result 
 is too well known. 
 
 I landed in Newfoundland, instead of in the 
 South, as I have said, with all my immediate plans 
 thwarted. But I took up the course of my life 
 exactly at the point where I stood. I was in New- 
 
 275 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 foundland just one day, and I wrote a history of 
 that Crown Colony from the information I 
 gleaned in this brief visit. I shall republish it 
 some day. I observed in St. John's, as I have ob- 
 served elsewhere, that people are fashioned by 
 their occupations. These people were physically 
 the creation of fisheries. I noted the tomcod mar- 
 ried to the hake, and the shark wedded to the 
 swordfish. The fish of the sea, which they ate 
 and upon which they lived and had their being, 
 were all represented in their features, from the 
 sardine to the sperm whale. 
 
 From St. John's, Newfoundland, I went to 
 Boston, by way of St. Johns, New Brunswick, 
 stopping at Portland, Maine, for a brief visit. 
 At Portland I was met ,by B. F. Guild on be- 
 half of Curtis Guild, owner of the Boston Com- 
 mercial Bulletin, which had just been established. 
 Guild published my Union speeches, and must 
 have spent $1,000 a week — the Bulletin was a 
 weekly paper — in advertising them and my other 
 writings. I published my History of Newfound- 
 land in his paper, receiving for it $10 a column, 
 the only pay I have ever received from a news- 
 paper or other periodical for my work. I saw 
 recently a notice of the death of B. F. Guild, 
 at the age of eighty-nine. I had no idea he was 
 so old. 
 
 I found that I had returned to my country 
 the most popular American in public life. I was 
 
 276 
 
ENGLAND AND OUK CIVIL WAK 
 
 greeted everywhere by vast concourses of people, 
 who cheered me and demanded speeches about the 
 situation in England and my experiences there. 
 At Boston I was met by a tremendous gathering, 
 and it looked like a procession as we went up 
 State Street to the Revere House. I was placed 
 in the rooms that had been occupied by the Prince 
 of Wales, now King Edward, on his visit to Bos- 
 ton two years before. 
 
 I was not long in Boston before I got into 
 trouble by trying to enlighten the people with re- 
 gard to the war. There was a great assemblage 
 in Faneuil HaU, where Simmer was to speak, and 
 I went there to see what was going on. Sumner 
 was not a very effective speaker before mixed 
 audiences, and could not have stood up for twenty 
 minutes in the halls of London, where the greatest 
 freedom of debate is indulged in, and where every 
 speaker must be prepared to answer quickly and 
 to the point any question that may be hurled at 
 him, or to reply with sharpness and point to any 
 retort that may come from the crowd that faces 
 him. 
 
 I was very much astonished, therefore, to hear 
 Sumner challenge any one in the audience to con- 
 fute his arguments. I knew, of course, that the 
 gantlet thus lightly thrown down was a mere ora- 
 torical figure, but in England it would have been 
 taken up at once, and Sumner would have been 
 routed. The temptation was too much for me. I 
 
 277 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 rose, to the apparent astonishment and embarrass- 
 ment of the orator and of the committee on the 
 platform, and said: "Mr. Sumner, when you 
 have finished, I should like to speak a word." The 
 cheering that greeted my acceptance of the gaily- 
 flung challenge was cordial. 
 
 As soon as Sumner had finished I climbed 
 to the platform. There I had the greatest diffi- 
 culty with the committee, which seemed deter- 
 mined to suppress any attempt to reply to the 
 hero and god of the upper classes in Boston. The 
 moment I began to talk the committee signaled to 
 the band, and the music drowned my voice. When 
 the band stopped I started again, but the com- 
 mittee endeavored to stop me. I acted as my own 
 policeman and cleared the platform, when 
 another rush was made upon me, and all went 
 tumbling from the stage. I was then arrested and 
 taken to the City Hall. The crowd seemed de- 
 cidedly with me, although the utmost it knew as to 
 my sentiments was that I was opposed to making 
 instant abolition of slavery a condition precedent 
 to putting an end to the war (that is, on Lincoln's 
 platform, Union, with or without slavery). 
 
 In a few minutes there was a crowd of some 
 thousands of people about the City Hall demand- 
 ing loudly that I be set at liberty. I quieted the 
 people by sending word to them that I was pre- 
 paring a proclamation to the American people. 
 This proclamation, entitled "God Save the Peo- 
 
 278 
 
ENGLAND AND OUR CIVIL WAR 
 
 pie," was published by Guild in the Bulletin — 
 and I should like to get a copy of it, as I have 
 lost my own. This arrest did not interfere with 
 me very much, 
 
 I made a contract with Guild to lecture in the 
 North and West, and my first lecture was given 
 in the Academy of Music, New York. The gen- 
 eral subject was the abolition question, as it re- 
 lated to the war between the States. At this meet- 
 ing Cassius M. Clay, of Kentucky, was made chair- 
 man, but the audience did not like that, and a big 
 cabbage was thrown to the stage from the gallery. 
 I then took charge of the meeting myself, and 
 walking to the edge of the stage, said: "I see 
 that you do not like Mr. Clay ; but he should have 
 a fair chance. If Mr. Guild will arrange for a 
 meeting at Cooper Institute to-morrow night, I 
 will debate with Mr. Clay, and you can then fire at 
 me cabbages or gold dollars, as you like. I pro- 
 pose the following subject for the discussion: 
 ■American Slavery as a Stepping-stone from Afri- 
 can Barbarism to Christian Civilization; hence, it 
 is a Divine Institution." Mr. Clay accepted. 
 
 The next evening, at Cooper Institute, there 
 was a large audience that packed the hall from 
 door to stage ; $1,300 were taken at the box-office. 
 The papers on the following morning gave from 
 two to four columns of the discussion, and the 
 London Times considered it sufficiently important, 
 even to Englishmen, to give a long account and 
 
 279 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 editorial comments. It said that the honors of 
 the debate had been with me, and gave a specimen 
 of my repartee, which, it said, had swept Mr, Clay; 
 off his feet. 
 
 Mr, Clay had referred in his speech to an in- 
 terview he had had with President Lincoln, who 
 was then hesitating as to issuing the Proclamation 
 of Emancipation, Mr, Clay said, " I told the 
 President that I would not flesh my sword in the 
 defense of Washington unless he issued a procla- 
 mation freeing the slaves." My reply was : " It 
 is fair to assume that, in order to make Major- 
 General Cassius M, Clay flesh his sword, the 
 President will issue the proclamation," There 
 was loud laughter at this. The President did 
 issue his proclamation three months after this, 
 
 I received a postal card the other day from 
 Clay, who is now a nonogenarian, in his armed 
 castle in Kentucky, 
 
 I was in "Washington after this debate, which 
 occurred in September, '62, and was warmly re- 
 ceived by the President and members of his cabi- 
 net. I had heard very much, of course, about the 
 freedom of speech of Mr, Lincoln, and was not, 
 therefore, astonished to hear him relate several 
 characteristic anecdotes. In fact, three of the most 
 prominent men in the United States at that time 
 were striving to outdo one another in jests — the 
 President, Senator Nesmyth of Oregon, and 
 Senator Nye. 
 
 280 
 
ENGLAND AND OUR CIVIL WAR 
 
 Mr. Seward invited me to a dinner at his resi- 
 dence, the historic house where later the assassin 
 tried to kill him, where General Sickles killed Philip 
 Barton Key, and which in more recent years was 
 occupied hy James G. Blaine. Most of the members 
 of the cabinet were present. I was asked to describe 
 some of the scenes of my recent travels, and told 
 about Chinese dinners, to their great amusement. 
 Afterward I told them a story then current about 
 "Wendell Phillips, the abolitionist. Phillips was 
 once in Charleston, South Carolina, and returned 
 late to dinner at his hotel. As he approached the 
 door, it was held open by a negro slave. Phillips 
 said haughtily that he had never permitted a 
 slave to wait on him, and that he would not do so 
 now. " How long have you been a slave? " asked 
 Mr. Phillips. The negro replied: "I ain't got no 
 time to talk erbout dat now, wid only five minits 
 fur dinner." Mr. Phillips told the slave to leave 
 the room, that he would not let him serve him at 
 the table; he would wait on himself. "I cain't 
 do dat, suh ; I is 'sponsible for de silber on de table, 
 suh!" 
 
 Loud laughter greeted this story. In the very 
 midst of the uproar the door was burst open, 
 and Secretary Stanton appeared, his face white 
 with emotion. In a choking voice, that was scarcely 
 audible and would not have been heard had not 
 every nerve in our bodies been strained to catch 
 the momentous words we expected, he said: "A 
 
 281 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 battle is raging at Antietaml Ten thousand men 
 have been killed, and the rebels are now probably 
 marching on Washington ! " 
 
 There was a hush, and we told no more stories 
 that night. It is remarkable that almost all the 
 great battles hung long in the scales of victory. 
 Neither side knew whether it had won until some 
 time after the fighting had ceased. It was so at 
 Antietam, and had been so in the case of Bull Eun 
 or Manassas. The true tidings came in slowly. 
 
 I took no part in the war on the battlefield, be- 
 cause as soon as I looked into the causes of the 
 war and its continuance, I saw that it was a con- 
 tract war. I came back to this country fully ex- 
 pecting to serve. I had been assured of a high 
 commission; but could not conscientiously take 
 part in a struggle in which thousands of lives were 
 being sacrificed to greed. Such was my honest 
 belief, and such was my course. 
 
 282 
 
CHAPTER XXin 
 
 BUILDING THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY 
 1862-1870 
 
 When the Englishmen tore up my street-rail- 
 ways in England, I made a speech in which I told 
 them I would build a railway across the Rocky 
 Mountains and the Great American Desert which 
 would ruin the old trade routes across Egypt to 
 China and Japan. I pointed out then that this 
 route would be far shorter in time than the old 
 route, and that Europe would soon be traversing 
 America to reach the Orient. This was no new 
 idea, sprung at the moment in a feeling of resent- 
 ment. I had suggested this route across America 
 ten years earlier, at Melbourne, Australia. 
 
 New York, then as now, we Americans re- 
 garded as the starting point of all great enter- 
 prises, and to New York I came. I called at once 
 upon leaders in the world of finance — Commodore 
 Vanderbilt, Commodore Garrison, William B. 
 Astor, Moses H. Grinnell, Marshall O. Roberts, 
 and others, and frankly told them of my plans. 
 One of them said to me : 
 
 " Train, you have reputation enough now. 
 20 283 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Wliy do something that will mar it? You are 
 known all over the world as the Clipper-Ship 
 King. This is enough glory for one man. If you 
 attempt to build a railway across the desert and 
 over the Eocky Mountains, the world will call you 
 a lunatic." 
 
 And this was all that I received from these gen- 
 tlemen ! Not a word of encouragement, not a cent 
 of contributed funds — only the warning that the 
 world, like themselves, would call me a madman. 
 
 Unaffected by this cold reception, I kept 
 steadily on with my task, and proceeded to organ- 
 ize the great railway. Congress granted the 
 necessary charter in '62. It authorized the build- 
 ing of a road from the Missouri Eiver to Cali- 
 fornia, with an issue of $100,000,000 of stock and 
 $50,000,000 of bonds — to be issued in sections, the 
 first section to be at the rate of $16,000 a mile; 
 and the last at $48,000 a mile, with 20,000,000 
 acres of land in alternate sections ; and $2,000,000 
 to be subscribed, ten per centum to be paid into 
 the State treasury at Albany. 
 
 My friends in Boston took the stock, but I failed 
 to get the cash to go ahead with the road in Phil- 
 adelphia, Baltimore, and New York. At this point, 
 when matters looked a little dark, an idea occurred 
 to me that cleared the sky. It made the construc- 
 tion of the great line a certainty. In Paris, a few 
 years before, I had been much interested in new 
 methods of fimance as devised by the brothers 
 
 284 
 
BUILDING THE UNION PACIFIC 
 
 Emile and Isaac Perr^re. These shrewd and 
 ingenious men, finding that old methods could 
 not be used to meet many demands of modern 
 times, invented entirely new ones which they or- 
 ganized into two systems known as the Credit 
 Mobilier and the Credit Foncier — or systems of 
 credit based on personal property and land. The 
 French Government had supported these systems 
 of the Perreres, and Baron Haussmann had re- 
 sorted to them in his great undertaking in rebuild- 
 ing and remodeling the French capital, making it 
 the most beautiful city of the world. I deter- 
 mined upon introducing this new style of finance 
 into this country. 
 
 I found that a bill had been passed in Pennsyl- 
 vania in '59, for Duff Green, granting authority 
 for the organization of the " Pennsylvania Fiscal 
 Agency," which, on examination, I saw could be 
 used for my purpose. I bought this charter for 
 $25,000. The bill had been " engineered " through 
 the Pennsylvania legislature by a man named Hall, 
 and others of the Philadelphia Custom-House. In 
 order to make it suitable for our uses, I wanted 
 its title changed, and asked to have the legislature 
 change the title to " Credit Mobilier of America." 
 The matter went through without trouble, and I 
 paid $500 for having this done. When I happened 
 to mention to William H. Harding, of the Phila- 
 delphia Inquirer, that it had cost me $500 to have 
 the title of the charter altered, he told me he could 
 
 285 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 have had it done for $50. I did not know as much 
 of the ways of legislation in Pennsylvania then as 
 I did later. The sum I paid for the charter was 
 made up from $5,000 cash and $20,000 of the bonds 
 of the Credit Mobilier. I was to have $50,000 for 
 organizing the company. I think it worth while 
 to call attention here to the fact that this was the 
 first so-called " Trust " organized in this country. 
 Having failed to raise the money elsewhere, I 
 went to Boston, and there succeeded in launching 
 the enterprise. My own subscription of $150,000 
 was the pint of water that started the great wheel 
 of the machinery. I give here — for it is a matter 
 of historic interest, since the building of this road 
 marked the opening of a new era in the United 
 States — ^the list of the subscribers who were my 
 copartners in the undertaking: 
 
 Lombard and friends $100,000 
 
 Oakes and Oliver Ames 300,000 
 
 Sidney Dillon §100,000 
 
 Cyrus H. MeCormiok 100,000 
 
 Ben Holliday 100,000 
 
 John Duff 100,000 400,000 
 
 Glidden & Williams 50,000 
 
 Joseph Nickerson 100,000 
 
 Fred Nickerson 50,000 
 
 Baker & Morrill 50,000 
 
 Samuel Hooper and Dexter 50,000 
 
 Price Crowell 25,000 
 
 Bardwell and Otis Norcross 75,000 400,000 
 
 Williams & Guion 50,000 
 
 William H. Macy. 25,000 
 
 H. S. McComb, Wilminj^ton, Del 75,000 
 
 Georfje Francis Train, through Colonel Georjre 
 T. M. Davis, trustee for my wife and children 150, 000 800, 000 
 
 $1,400,000 
 
 286 
 
Home of George Francis Train fioni 1803 lo 1869, 
 No. 156 Mailison Avenue, Xi'W Yiirk. 
 
BUILDING THE UNION PACIFIC 
 
 I had offered an interest in the road to old and 
 well-establislied merchants of New York and other 
 cities — the Grays, the Goodhues, the Aspinwalls, 
 the Howlands, the Grinnells, the Marshalls, and 
 Davis, Brooks & Company; and even to some 
 of the new men, like Henry Clews — agreeing to put 
 them in " on the ground floor," if I may use an 
 expression from the lesser world of finance. But 
 they were afraid. It was too big. Only two of 
 them, William H. Macy and William H. Guion, 
 would take any stock. 
 
 There was a meeting of the stockholders in 
 Gibson's office in Wall Street, for the purpose of 
 electing a board of directors. By this time the 
 importance of the road had become recognized, 
 and there was an active desire on the part of the 
 chiefs of the trunk lines leading to the West to ob- 
 tain control of the charter. They had their repre- 
 sentatives there, and I saw from the first that an 
 attempt would be made to capture the Union 
 Pacific Eailway as a trophy of one of these power- 
 ful Eastern lines. Fortunately, as I perfectly 
 well knew, they were not quite powerful enough, 
 in the circumstance, even with a united front, to 
 accomplish their purposes. 
 
 William B. Ogden was in the chair, and a hasty 
 calculation convinced me that probably $200,000,000 
 were represented by the men gathered in the little 
 office. Of the great trunk lines represented I can 
 recall now the Baltimore and Ohio, the Pennsyl- 
 
 287 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 vania, and the New York Central. It was from 
 the forces of the last that the lightning came. 
 
 As soon as the meeting had been called to 
 order, and the purpose of it stated by the chair, a 
 gentleman arose and began speaking in a wheezy, 
 squeaky voice. But he had a way of saying what 
 he wanted, and of saying it shrewdly, adroitly, 
 and very effectively. I could see that he was 
 accustomed to win in the Shakespearian way — " by 
 indirections find directions out." He said that as 
 everything was ready for the election of a board, 
 he would suggest that the chair should appoint a 
 committee of five which should then name a board 
 of thirty members. I saw that this was an adroit 
 move to put one of these big roads in control of 
 the committee and, of course, in control of the 
 Union Pacific. The chair immediately named five 
 men, three of whom were representatives of the 
 New York Central. 
 
 I turned to a gentleman sitting next me and 
 asked who was the wheezy-voiced man who had 
 just taken his seat. " That is Samuel J. Tilden," 
 said he. 
 
 Matters now went as I had foreseen. Of 
 course, the three New York Central men on the 
 committee named a New York Central board of 
 directors. They thought they had quietly and 
 effectively bagged the game. But I held in my 
 pocket the power that could overturn all their 
 schemes. In fact I had offered the presidency of 
 
 288 
 
BUILDING THE UNION PACIFIC 
 
 the road to Moses Taylor, founder of the City 
 National Bank, now controlled by Mr. Stillman, 
 and to A. A. Low, father of the present Mayor of 
 New York, But both had laughed at me, think- 
 ing it absurd that I should presume to have so 
 much power. I then made up my own list of offi- 
 cers, and named John A. Dix as president, and 
 John J. Cisco as treasurer. Afterward I made 
 a short speech, in which I said that I held the con- 
 trol of the road in my hands. 
 
 The vote was called for by the chair, and out 
 of the $2,000,000 of stock represented, the New 
 York Central influence cast $300,000 and I the vote 
 of $1,700,000. This completely surprised those 
 present, and they left the office as rats fly from a 
 sinking ship. I was indignant, and shouted: 
 " You stand on the corners of Wall Street again 
 and call me a ' damned Copperhead ' ; but don't 
 forget that I kicked $200,000,000 worth of you 
 into the street ! " And that is the reason why they 
 called me " crazy " ! 
 
 I went out West in the autumn of '63 to break 
 ground for the first mile of railway track west of 
 the Missouri river. None of the directors was 
 with me; I was entirely alone. I made a speech 
 at Omaha in which I predicted that the road would 
 be completed by '70, and in which I forecast the 
 great development of Omaha and the Northwest. 
 This speech was printed all over the world, and I 
 was denounced as a madman and a visionary. I 
 
 289 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 had, every one said, prophesied the impossible. 
 
 And yet every word of that speech was true, both 
 
 as to its facts and as to its prophecies. I give 
 
 here a few extracts from it, as it was published in 
 
 the Omaha Eepublican, December 3, '63, and as 
 
 it has been repubUshed in that paper and others 
 
 many times since : 
 
 America is the stage, the world is the audience of to-da5. 
 While one act of the drama represents the booming of the cannoa 
 on the Kapidan, the Cumberland, and the Bio Grande, sounding 
 the death-knell of rebellious war, the next scene records the boom- 
 ing of cannon on both sides of the llissouri to celebrate the 
 grandest work of peace that ever attracted the energies of man. 
 The great Pacific Railway is commenced, and if you knew the man 
 who has hold of the afEair as well as I do, no doubt would ever 
 arise as to its speedy completion. The President shows his good 
 judgment in locating the road where the Almighty placed the 
 signal station, at the entrance of a garden seven hundred miles in 
 length and twenty broad. 
 
 Before the first century of the nation's birth, we may see in the 
 New York depot some strange Pacific railway notice. 
 
 ^^ European passengers for Japan will please take the night train. 
 
 ^^ Passengers for China this way. 
 
 '^ African and, Asiatic freight must le distinctly marhed: F<yr 
 Pehing via San Francisco." 
 
 Immigration will soon pour into these valleys. Ten millions 
 of emigrants will settle in this golden land in twenty years. 
 
 I had predicted that the railway would be com- 
 pleted in 70. On May 10, '69, the " golden spike " 
 was driven at Ogden, Utah, Among the papers 
 throughout the world that had ridiculed me as 
 being mad or visionary because of my speech at 
 Omaha in '63, was the Hongkong Press, which said 
 
 290 
 
BUILDING THE UNION PACIFIC 
 
 that it was generally thought in China during my 
 visit there in '55-56 that I was a little " off," and 
 that this speech, which predicted a railway across 
 the Eocky Mountains, clearly proved that I was 
 both visionary and mad. On my journey around 
 the world in '70, after the completion of the Union 
 Pacific Eailway, I stepped into the office of the 
 Hongkong paper and asked for the editor. When 
 he came out, I asked him to show me the file of his 
 paper containing my Omaha speech. He brought 
 it out, and we turned to the column. " Do you 
 know Train? " he asked me. " "Why, I am Train," 
 I said, " and it seems that you did not know me in 
 Hongkong in '55-'56. I have just come through 
 the Eocky Mountains over that road." 
 
 The tremendous importance of the Union 
 Pacific Eailway is now too well known to need any 
 further comment here from me. It is enough to 
 say that it was through my suggestion and through 
 my plans and energy that this mighty highway 
 across the continent, breaking up the old trade 
 routes of the world, and turning the tide of com- 
 merce from its ancient eastern tracks across the 
 wide expanse of the American continent, was cre- 
 ated. 
 
 Note. — Albert D. Richardson in his once famous book Beyond 
 the Mississippi, •writing of the development of Omaha and the 
 Northwest, due to the building of the Union Pacific Railway, says: 
 " Here was George Francis Train, at the head of a great company 
 called the Credit Foncier, organized for dealing in lands and stocks 
 for building cities along the railway from the Missouri to Salt Lake. 
 This corporation had been clothed by the Nebraska legislature with 
 
 291 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 nearly every power imaginable, save that of reconstructing the late 
 rebel States. It was erecting neat cottages in Omaha and at other 
 points west. 
 
 "Mr. Train owned personally about five hundred acres in Omaha, 
 which cost him only one hundred and seventy-five dollars per acre — 
 a most promising investment. He is a noticeable, original Ameri- 
 can, who has crowded wonderful and varied experiences into his 
 short life. An orphan boy, employed to sweep the counting-room, 
 he rose to the head of a great Boston shipping house ; then estab- 
 lished a branch in Liverpool; next organized and conducted a 
 heavy commission business in Australia, and astonished his neigh- 
 bors in that era of fabulous prices, with Brussels carpets, and marble 
 counters, and a free champagne luncheon daily in his business office. 
 Afterward he made the circuit of the world, wrote books of travel, 
 fought British prejudices against street-railways, occupying his 
 leisure time by flery and audacious American war speeches to our 
 island cousins, until he spent a fortune, and enjoyed the delights of 
 a month in a British prison. 
 
 " Thence he returned to America ; lectured everywhere ; and now 
 he is trying to build a belt of cities across the continent. At least a 
 magnificent project. Curiously combining keen sagacity with wild 
 enthusiasm, a man who might have built the pyramids, or been 
 confined in a strait-jacket for eccentricities, according to the age 
 he lived in, he observes dryly that since he began to make money, 
 people no longer pronounce him crazy I He drinks no spirits, uses 
 no tobacco, talks on the stump like an embodied Niagara, composes 
 songs to order by the hour as fast as he can sing them, like an Italian 
 improvisatore, remembers every droll story from Joe Miller to Arte- 
 mus Ward, is a bom actor, is intensely in earnest, and has the most 
 absolute and outspoken faith in himself and his future." 
 
 [At the time Richardson saw me at Omaha, in '64, another noted 
 journalist, William Hepworth Dixon, editor of the London Athe- 
 naeum, called on me, traveling with Sir Charles Dilke, who was wri- 
 ting Greater Britain. I introduced him to Richardson. — G. F. T.] 
 
 292 
 
CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE FAE WEST 
 186S-1870 
 
 Very much of my work that has aided most in 
 the development of this country was done in the 
 great region of the Northwest, then a wild country, 
 trackless and uninhabited except by savages. Of 
 course, the chief achievement in the West was the 
 building of the Union Pacific Railway, which led 
 up to the inception and construction of other rail- 
 ways and to the present prosperity of the entire 
 section. 
 
 But this enterprise was merely a beginning. 
 I looked upon it only as the launching of a hun- 
 dred other projects, which, if I had been able to 
 carry them to completion, would have transformed 
 the West in a few years, and anticipated its pres- 
 ent state of wealth and power by more than a full 
 generation. One of my plans was the creation of 
 a chain of great towns across the continent, con- 
 necting Boston with San Francisco by a magnifi- 
 cent highway of cities. That this was not an idle 
 dream is shown by the rapid growth of Chicago, 
 
 293 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 which owes its greatness to its situation upon this 
 natural highway of trade ; and to the development 
 of Omaha, which owes its prosperity directly to 
 the Union Pacific Railway and to the other enter- 
 prises that I organized in the West. Most of 
 these plans were defeated by a financial panic, by 
 the lack of cooperation on the part of the very peo- 
 ple who were most interested in their success, and 
 by events which I shall describe in the following 
 chapters of this book. Some of them succeeded, 
 however, and I was able to accomplish a great 
 deal of work that has gone into the winning and 
 making of the West. 
 
 When I went out to Omaha to break ground for 
 the Union Pacific Railway, on December 3, '63, 
 there was only one hotel in that town. This was the 
 Hemdon House, a respectable affair, now U. P. 
 headquarters. I was astonished that men of en- 
 ergy, enterprise, and means had not seized the op- 
 portunity to erect a large hotel at this point, which 
 had already given every promise of rapid and im- 
 mediate growth. But what directly suggested to 
 me the building of such a hotel on my own account 
 was a little incident that occurred at a breakfast 
 that I happened to be giving in the Hemdon 
 House. 
 
 I had invited a number of prominent men — 
 Representatives in Congress, and others — to take 
 breakfast with me in this house, as I desired to 
 present to them some of my plans. The break- 
 
 294 
 
DEVELOPMENT OF THE FAK WEST 
 
 fast was a characteristic Western meal, with prai- 
 rie chickens and Nebraska trout. While we were 
 seated, one of those sudden and always unex- 
 pected cyclones on the plains came up, and the 
 hotel shook like a leaf in the terrible storm. Our 
 table was very near a window in which were large 
 panes of glass, which I feared could not withstand 
 the tremendous force of the wind. They were quiv- 
 ering under the stress of weather, and I called to 
 a strapping negro waiter at our table to stand 
 with his broad back against the window. This 
 proved a security against the storm without; but 
 it precipitated a storm within. 
 
 Allen, the manager of the Herndon, and a man 
 with a political turn of mind, saw in the incident 
 an assault on the rights of the negroes. He hur- 
 ried over to the table and protested against this 
 act as an outrage. I could not afford to enter into 
 a quarrel with him at the time, so I merely said: 
 " I am about the size of the negro ; I will take his 
 place." I then ordered the fellow away from the 
 window, took his post, and stayed there until the 
 fury of the storm abated. Then I was ready for 
 Allen. 
 
 I walked out in front of the house and, point- 
 ing to a large vacant square facing it, asked who 
 owned it. I was told the owner's name and imme- 
 diately sent a messenger for him post-haste. He 
 arrived in a short time, and I asked his price. It 
 was $5,000. I wrote out and handed him a check 
 
 295 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 for the amount, and took from him, on the spot, a 
 deed for the property. 
 
 Then I asked for a contractor who could 
 build a hotel. A man named Richmond was 
 brought to me. " Can you build a three-story 
 hotel in sixty days on this plot? " asked I. After 
 some hesitation he said it would be merely a ques- 
 tion of money. "How much?" I asked. "One 
 thousand dollars a day." " Show me that you are 
 responsible for $60,000." He did so, and I took 
 out an envelope and sketched on the back of it a 
 rough plan of the hotel. " I am going to the moun- 
 tains," I said, " and I shall want this hotel, with 
 120 rooms, complete, when I return in sixty days." 
 
 When I got back, the hotel was finished. I im- 
 mediately rented it to Cozzens, of West Point, 
 New York, for $10,000 a year. This is the famous 
 Cozzens's Hotel of Omaha, which has been more 
 written about, I suppose, than almost any other 
 hostelry ever built in the United States. It is the 
 show-place of Omaha to this day. 
 
 The completion of the Union Pacific Railway 
 in '69 was the occasion of my visit to California 
 and Oregon. In San Francisco I gave a banquet 
 to men prominent in finance and politics, and took 
 occasion to refer to the efforts that had been made 
 there, as it seemed to me, to aid the seceding 
 States. I was making a response to the toast of 
 " The Union," and had said that if I had been the 
 Federal general in command in California at the 
 
 296 
 
DEVELOPMENT OF THE FAR WEST 
 
 time, I should have hanged certain men, some of 
 whom were present. This was pretty hot shot, 
 and I did not wonder at the resentment of the men 
 to whom I referred. I was astonished, however, 
 by the terrific scoring I received from the city 
 press the following morning. I read the reports 
 of, and the comments on, my speech as I was mak- 
 ing preparations to have my special car taken back 
 East that afternoon. I was very indignant, but 
 did not know exactly what to do. 
 
 Just at this moment a man approached me and 
 said that he would like to have me deliver a lec- 
 ture that evening in the theater. He was the 
 manager, Mr. Poole. I saw my opportunity, and 
 accepted, refusing, however, his proffer of $500 
 in gold, and agreeing to take one-half the gross 
 receipts for a series of lectures. I delivered 
 twenty-eight lectures to crowded houses, and took 
 in, for my share, $10,000 in gold. I did not spare 
 my critics, but flayed them alive. 
 
 My lectures made me the most conspicuous 
 man on the Pacific coast, and I received despatches 
 of congratulations, or invitations to deliver lec- 
 tures and speeches, almost every hour of the day. 
 I accepted a five-hundred-dollar check to go to 
 Portland, Oregon, to make the Fourth-of-July 
 oration, and the Gussie Tellefair was sent to 
 meet me and take me up the Columbia in state. 
 The oration was delivered to a big audience of 
 Oregonians, trappers and mountaineers, some 
 
 297 
 
MY LITE IN MANY STATES 
 
 of them wearing the quaintest garb I had ever 
 seen. 
 
 I mention this visit to Portland because it 
 afforded me opportunity for doing several things 
 of importance. I visited the famous Dalles of the 
 Columbia river, and while there saw the Indians 
 spearing salmon. I asked what they were doing, 
 and was told that they were laying in their sup- 
 ply for the winter. I went to the place where the 
 braves were spearing the fish and asked one of 
 them to let me try my hand at the fish-spear. 
 Having accustomed myseK a little to throwing the 
 harpoon, I found that I could manage the Indian's 
 weapon quite skilfully, and succeeded in landing 
 200 salmon in two hours. Of course the fish were 
 running in swarms, but this two hours' work would 
 have brought me $1,000 if I could have taken the 
 catch to New York. 
 
 I was the first white man, I believe, that had 
 taken salmon out of the Columbia, and it then oc- 
 curred to me, if the Indians could lay up a supply 
 of fish for the winter, why could not white men do 
 the same thing? I thereupon suggested the can- 
 ning of salmon, which has since been developed 
 into so large an industry and has made the Quinnat 
 salmon the king-fish of the world, putting Columbia 
 salmon into almost every household of civiliza- 
 tion. 
 
 Another fact may be recorded here. My 
 Tourth-of-July oration had been such a success 
 
 298 
 
DEVELOPMENT OF THE FAR WEST 
 
 that I was asked to make another speech at Seat- 
 tle, on Puget Sound, which was then a struggling 
 village. I was accompanying a delegation or 
 committee from the East that was looking for a 
 good place for the terminus of the Northern 
 Pacific Railway, which had been projected after 
 the great success of the Union Pacific. When we 
 passed the point where Tacoma now stands, I was 
 attracted by its appearance and said : " There is 
 your terminus." The committee selected the spot, 
 and Tacoma was founded there. 
 
 An amusing incident closed this part of my 
 journey. I went from Seattle to Victoria, British 
 Columbia, and was astonished to find the town 
 in the wildest commotion. Troops were at the 
 docks, and the moment I landed I observed that 
 the greatest interest was taken in me. At last, 
 as they saw me walking about alone, one of the 
 officials came up and said: " Why, are you alone? " 
 " Of course," I replied. " Did you expect me to 
 bring an army with me? " I said this in jest, not 
 Imowing how closely it touched his question. He 
 then took me aside and said, " Eead this despatch." 
 I opened the despatch and read : " Train is on the 
 Hunt." 
 
 I saw what it meant, and how the good people 
 had been deceived. The Hunt was the vessel 
 I came on, and the telegraph operator at Seattle, 
 knowing that I had been with the Fenians and had 
 been stirring up a good deal of trouble in Cali- 
 21 299 
 
MY LIFE m MANY STATES 
 
 fomia, thought he would have some fun with the 
 Canadians. The people of Victoria were on the 
 lookout for me to arrive with a gang of Fenians ! 
 I did not smile, but determined to carry the 
 joke a little further. Walking into the telegraph 
 office, I filed the following cablegram for Dublin, 
 Ireland. "Down England, up Ireland." The 
 jest cost me $40 in tolls, but I enjoyed it that 
 much. 
 
 300 
 
CHAPTER XXV 
 
 THE SHARE I HAD IN THE FRENCH COMMUNE 
 
 1870 
 
 My participation in the Commune in France, in 
 the year '70, was the result of chance. I arrived 
 at Marseilles at a very critical time in the history 
 of that city. It was the hour when the Commune, 
 or, as it was styled there by many, the " Eed Ee- 
 pubKc," was born. I was on a tour of the world, 
 the voyage in which I eclipsed all former feats 
 of travel, and circled the globe in eighty days. 
 This served Jules Verne, two years later, as the 
 groundwork for his famous romance Around the 
 World in Eighty Days. The whole journey had 
 been eventful, but I shall write of that in a later 
 chapter. 
 
 The French Empire had fallen and the Repub- 
 lic had risen within the period of my swift flight ; 
 and now one of the darkest and most desperate en- 
 terprises known in history was afoot — the attempt 
 to transform France and the world into a system 
 of " communes," erected upon the ruins of all na- 
 tional governments. 
 
 301 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 I arrived at Marseilles on the Donai, of tlie Im- 
 perial Messagerie line, October 20, 70, and went 
 at once to the Grand Hotel de Louvre. Imagine 
 my astonishment when I was received there by a 
 delegation, and, for the third time, hailed as 
 " liberator." The empty title of liberator — so 
 easily conferred by the excitable Latin races — 
 had become rather a joke with me. The Austral- 
 ian revolutionists who wanted to make me Pres- 
 ident of their paper republic, were in earnest, and 
 would have done something notable, had they ever 
 got the opportunity, with sufficient men behind 
 them; but the Italians I had not felt much confi- 
 dence in, nor had I any desire to work for 
 their cause. 
 
 The acclaim with which the people in the 
 streets of Marseilles received me, at first jarred 
 upon my sensibilities and seemed an echo merely 
 of the little affair in Rome. However, I was soon 
 to be convinced of the deep sincerity of these revo- 
 lutionists, and was destined to take an active 
 and honest part in their cause. It is remarkable 
 how a slight incident may turn the whole cur- 
 rent of one's life. It had been my intention to 
 proceed as rapidly as possible to Berlin, and 
 take a look at the victorious Prussian army; 
 but here I was at the very moment of my ar- 
 rival on French soil, involved in the problems 
 and struggles of the French people, as pre- 
 cipitated by the Prussian army, having for their 
 
 302 
 
MY SHARE IN THE FEENCH COMMUNE 
 
 object the undoing of mucli of the work of the 
 German conquest. 
 
 When the revolutionary committee hailed me 
 as "liberator," I thought they had mistaken me 
 for some one else, and asked the leaders if they 
 had not done so. "No," they said; "we have 
 heard of you and want you to join the revolu- 
 tion." It seemed that they had kept track of 
 my rapid progress around the world, and told 
 me they knew when I was at Port Said, and had 
 prepared to receive me as soon as I landed in 
 Marseilles. 
 
 " Six thousand people are waiting for you now 
 in the opera-house," they said. 
 
 "Waiting for me?" I asked, incredulous. 
 " How long have they been waiting, and what are 
 they waiting for? " 
 
 " They have been assembled for an hour ; and 
 they want you to address them in behalf of the 
 revolution." 
 
 "Well," said I, making a decision immedi- 
 ately, "I can not keep these good people wait- 
 ing. I will go with you." I had decided to 
 trust to the inspiration of the moment, when I 
 should stand face to face with that volatile 
 French audience. 
 
 From the moment I entered the opera-house, 
 packed with e2:cited 4)eople from the stage to the 
 topmost boxes, I was possessed by the French 
 revolutionary spirit. The fire and enthusiasm 
 
 303 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 of the people swept me from my feet. I was 
 thenceforth a " Communist," a member of their 
 " Red Republic." I felt this, as soon as I joined 
 that cheering and ecstatic mob — for it really was 
 a mob then, and mobs have been the germs of all 
 great national movements in France. 
 
 A comnaittee of some sort, prepared for the oc- 
 casion, immediately seized hold of me, and we 
 marched, or rushed, through the crowd, down the 
 aisle, and up on the stage. About 250 persons, 
 the more important movers in the agitation, I 
 suppose, were standing, all cheering at the top 
 of their voices. As I was placed upon the stage, 
 in front of the audience, there came a burst of 
 cheers of " Vive la Republique ! " " Vive la Com- 
 mune ! " and many were shouting out my name 
 with a French accent and a nasal "n." It was 
 irresistible. I stepped to the front of the stage 
 and tried to speak, but for several minutes could 
 not utter a word that could be heard a foot away, 
 the din of the shouting and cheering was so over- 
 whelming. 
 
 "When the shouting ceased, I told the people 
 that I was in Marseilles on a trip around the world, 
 but as they had called upon me to take part in 
 their movement, I should be glad to repay, in my 
 own behalf, a small portion of the enormous debt 
 of gratitude that my country owed to France for 
 Lafayette, Rochambeau, and de Grasse. I re- 
 peated a part of the " Marseillaise," which always 
 
 304 
 
MY SHAKE IN THE FRENCH COMMUNE 
 
 stirs Frenchmen to the depths, and a few verses 
 from Hohnes's poem on France — 
 
 "Pluck Condi's baton from the trench, 
 Wake up Btout Charles Martel; 
 Or give some woman's hand to clench 
 The sword of La Pucellel" 
 
 I also urged that France should not yield an 
 inch of her territory to the rapacious Prussians. 
 
 The excitement of the hour carried everything 
 before it, and the crowd outside, numbering at 
 least 20,000, finally was joined by the 6,000 inside, 
 and the whole mass, making a grand and noisy 
 procession, escorted me to my hotel where I had 
 taken the entire front suite of apartments. The 
 next morning I was waited upon by a committee 
 of the revolutionists. They said they wanted a 
 military leader, and that Cluseret was the man for 
 the place. He would be able to lead the forces of 
 the Ligue du Midi. 
 
 Cluseret was then in Switzerland, where he 
 had taken refuge after the troops drove him out 
 of Lyons at the orders of Gambetta. He was the 
 Gustave Paul Cluseret who had taken part in our 
 Civil War, serving on the staffs of McClellan and 
 Fremont, and who later was Military Chief of 
 the Paris Commune. We sent to Switzerland and 
 invited General Cluseret to join us in Marseilles. 
 To our surprise he sent word that he would need 
 a force of 2,000 armed men! This settled Clu- 
 seret, as far as I was concerned. 
 
 305 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 A few days later a card was brought to me 
 in the hotel bearing the name " Tirez," and the 
 statement that M. Tirez occupied room 113 in the 
 same hotel. I went up to this room, and there 
 found a splendid-looking fellow with a great mili- 
 tary mustache. "Are you M. Tirez?" I asked. 
 "I am General Cluseret," he said. "I thought 
 you wanted 2,000 armed men?" I said. "You 
 can probably give me more than that number," he 
 said, with a smile. " You seem to be in command 
 of everything and everybody here." "We shall 
 see," I said. I asked him to go to the Cirque with 
 me that evening. 
 
 There were at least 10,000 men in this gigantic 
 amphitheater. I made a short speech and said I 
 wanted to give them a surprise. "You want a 
 military leader. I have brought you one. Here 
 is your leader — General Gustave Paul Cluseret." 
 He was greeted with tremendous cheers. 
 
 We at once organized military headquarters 
 and prepared to take possession of the city. In 
 this effort we were aided by the liberal views of the 
 pr^fet, M. Esquiros, a republican, and later by 
 the incapacity of the new prefet appointed by 
 Gambetta, M. Gent. The next day we marched 
 to the military fortifications with a great mass of 
 men. General Cluseret and I were arm in arm 
 as we entered the gates. I observed the officer in 
 charge of the guns at the entrance about to give 
 an order, which I knew meant a volley that would 
 
 306 
 
MY SHAKE IN THE FRENCH COMMUNE 
 
 sweep us into the next world. I sprang forward 
 and seized the officer by the arm. " Come to see 
 me at the hotel," I whispered in his ear. The 
 order to fire was not given, and we filed into the 
 fortifications and took possession in the name of 
 the Commune — the " Red Republic." 
 
 The following day 150 of the Guarde Mobile 
 came to the hotel and demanded General Cluseret. 
 I told the officers he was not present, but they in- 
 sisted upon invading my rooms. I then told them 
 that they would not be permitted to cross the 
 threshold alive. I was armed with a revolver, and 
 three of my own secretaries were armed in the 
 same way. I said to the chief officer at the door 
 that there were four men inside and we would shoot 
 any one who tried to enter; we thought we could 
 kill at least two dozen of them. The Guarde held 
 a short council outside, and I soon heard their 
 military step resounding down the hall. They 
 had given up the search for Cluseret. 
 
 The next morning I saw from my window an 
 army marching down the street. I thought it was 
 our army, and went out on the balcony and began 
 shouting "Vive la Republique!" and "Vive la 
 Commune!" with the people in the street; but 
 there was an ominous silence in the ranks of the 
 troops. They did not respond to these revolu- 
 tionary sentiments. Then I saw the new pr^fet, 
 M. Gent, Gambetta's man, in a carriage, with 
 the army. Suddenly I heard a shot, and Gent 
 
 307 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 dropped to the bottom of the vehicle. Some one 
 had tried to kill him, but missed, and the prefet 
 did not care to be conspicuous again. 
 
 The troops came to a halt directly in front of 
 the hotel, and I saw that the officers were regard- 
 ing with anger the flag of the Commune that 
 floated from the balcony. Orders were given, 
 and five men, a firing squad, stepped from the 
 ranks and knelt, with their rifles in hand, ready to 
 fire. I knew that it was their purpose to shoot 
 me. I do not know why, but I felt that if the thing 
 had to be, I should die in the most dramatic man- 
 ner possible. There were two other flags on the 
 balcony, the colors of France and America. I 
 seized both of these, and wrapped them quickly 
 about my body. Then I stepped forward, and 
 knelt at the front of the balcony, in the same mili- 
 tary posture as the soldiers below me. I then 
 shouted to the officers in French : 
 
 "Fire, fire, you miserable cowards 1 Fire 
 upon the flags of France and America wrapped 
 around the body of an American citizen — if you 
 have the courage ! " 
 
 An order was spoken, too low for me to catch, 
 but the kneeling soldiers dropped their rifles, and 
 then rose, and rejoined the ranks. Another order 
 was shouted along the line, and the troops marched 
 on down the street and out of sight. 
 
 The attempted assassination of the prefet had 
 an unexpected effect upon public opinion in 
 
 308 
 
MY SHAEE IN THE FEENCH COMMUNE 
 
 Marseilles. It turned the mercurial Frenchman 
 against the Commune. I advised General Clu- 
 seret to go at once to Paris. I even purchased a 
 gold- laced uniform for him. His subsequent his- 
 tory, as military leader of the Commune in Paris, 
 his capture, trial, release, and retirement to Swit- 
 zerland, are well known. 
 
 At this time I believe the tide of war might 
 have been turned in favor of France by some swift 
 movement like those of which the mobile Boers 
 made good use in South Africa, perhaps by an at- 
 tack on the rear of the German armies. France 
 was filled with German soldiers, but Germany was 
 unguarded; and I believed then that a body of 
 light horsemen, say, like the Algerians, might have 
 created such a diversion by a rapid raid to the rear 
 that it would have forced the Germans back to the 
 Ehine, or even to Berlin. I was astonished by 
 the tremendous amount of munitions of war, and 
 by the masses of troops that were still available 
 in the south of France, Leadership, and not 
 troops, was what France lacked. 
 
 I left Marseilles for Lyons, after the troops 
 tried to shoot me in the balcony of the hotel, and 
 was accompanied by Cremieux, one of the leaders 
 of the Ligue du Midi. As we left Marseilles, a 
 man, wearing conspicuously the ribbon of the 
 Legion of Honor, entered our compartment. I at 
 once set him down as a spy, and began talking 
 with Cremieux in a loud voice. My estimate of 
 
 309 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 his character was justified in an unpleasant way 
 at Lyons. No sooner had we entered the suburbs 
 of that city than our friend left the compartment 
 and got off the train. 
 
 When the train came to a stop in the station, 
 I sprang out of the compartment with Cremieux, 
 and was confronted by six bayonets. Both of us 
 were placed under arrest. Immediately I remem- 
 bered the little slip of paper in my pocket which 
 might betray Cluseret, if found, and I seized it 
 hastily and put it into my mouth. The officer of 
 the squad of soldiers rushed forward to stop me, 
 but it was too late. The slip had gone. I had 
 swallowed it. 
 
 "That was the address of General Cluseret!" 
 shouted the officer. 
 
 " Of course," said I. " And it has gone to a 
 rendezvous with my breakfast ! " 
 
 The soldiers took Cremieux and myself to the 
 Bastile, in Lyons, and I was detained there for 
 thirteen days. When I went into the cell I was 
 very tired and sat up against the wall and leaned 
 my head against it. In a moment I detected the 
 breathing of a man very near me, and perceived 
 a crack in the wall, against which a spy in the ad- 
 jacent cell was inclining his ear to catch any in- 
 criminating words that might pass between Cre- 
 mieux and myself. It was the old trick of the In- 
 quisition; but it did not serve the purposes of 
 these late players of it. 
 
 310 
 
MY SHAEE m THE FKENCH COMMUNE 
 
 My secretary, Mr. Bemis, who came on from 
 Marseilles by a later train, could not find me in 
 Lyons. He spent a week in looking for me. At 
 the end of that time my wife, who was in New 
 York, telegraphed to the American legation at 
 Paris asking if the report were true that I had 
 been killed. It had been currently reported in 
 America that the soldiers had shot me in Mar- 
 seilles. Mr. Bemis went immediately to the Guarde 
 Mobile, which was in sympathy with the Com- 
 mune, the organization from which General Clu- 
 seret had been driven by Gambetta. The Guarde 
 sent a deputation of 150 officers to the pr^fet 
 of the city, who ordered my immediate release. 
 Gambetta was appealed to, and he directed that I 
 be sent to him at Tours by special train. 
 
 To Tours I went in style. I had been poisoned 
 in the Lyons Bastile, and was ill, in consequence, 
 having lost thirty pounds of flesh in thirteen days. 
 I was met at Tours by Gambetta's secretary, M. 
 Eanc, afterward a deputy, who told me I could 
 see the Dictator at four o'clock. " "Why not now? " 
 I asked. " Because it is not possible for M. Gam- 
 betta to work until he has had his dinner." I 
 found that these French officials were as fond 
 of their dinner as English officials. At the ap- 
 pointed hour M. Eanc took me to the palace of 
 the prefecture, and I was admitted at once to Gam- 
 betta's presence. 
 
 I found everything in confusion. The prefec- 
 311 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 ture was filled with men who had been waiting for 
 the Dictator's pleasure. In the first ante-rooms I 
 saw men who had been waiting for three weeks; 
 in the next rooms were those who had waited for 
 two weeks ; and in the third rooms I found officers 
 of the army and navy, who had waited one week. 
 As I passed in among these throngs with an air 
 of self-possession, they took me for some grand 
 personage, and I heard whispers that I must be 
 the ambassador from Spain or the Papal Nuncio. 
 
 Gambetta was seated at his desk in a large and 
 handsomely furnished room. He made not the 
 slightest sign of being aware that I was present. 
 He did not even turn his face toward me. I did 
 not learn until afterward that the distinguished 
 Italian-Frenchman had one glass eye, and could 
 see me just as well at an angle as he could full- 
 face. But I grew tired of standing there si- 
 lent, and was already weary from my long incar- 
 ceration, I decided, after taking in this strange 
 character, then at the top of the seething pot of 
 French politics, that the best course for me was 
 to put on a bold front. 
 
 "When a distinguished stranger calls to see 
 you, M. Gambetta, I think you might offer him a 
 chair." 
 
 The great man smiled, and motioned me to a 
 seat with considerable graciousness. I took a 
 chair, and said : 
 
 "M. Gambetta, you are the head of France, 
 312 
 
MY SHAEE IN THE FKENCH COMMUNE 
 
 and I intend to be President of the United States. 
 You can assist me, and I can assist you," 
 
 He looked at me with a curious regard, but did 
 not smile. 
 
 " Send me to America, and I can help you get 
 munitions of war, and win over the sympathy and 
 assistance of the Americans." 
 
 I knew, of course, that he was going to send 
 me out of France in any event, and I wanted to 
 discount his plan. 
 
 The Dictator smiled again, and said: "You 
 sent Cluseret to Paris, and bought him a uniform 
 for 300 francs." 
 
 " You are only fairly well informed, M. Gam- 
 betta. I paid 350 francs for the uniform." 
 
 " Cluseret is a scoundrel," he said. 
 
 " The Communards call you that," I replied. 
 
 He ended our interview by saying a few pleas- 
 ant words, bowing me out of the room, and send- 
 ing me out of France forthwith. 
 
 I went straight to London, then to Liverpool, 
 and sailed for New York in the Abyssinia, which, 
 curiously enough, was afterward the pioneer ship 
 on the line of boats between Vancouver and Yoko- 
 hama, it having been bought by the Canadian 
 Pacific. 
 
 313 
 
CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 A CANDIDATE FOK PBESIDENT 
 1872 
 
 I HAVE passed a great many days in jail. A jail 
 is a good place to meditate and to plan in, if only 
 one can be patient in such a place. Much of my 
 work was thought out and wrought out while living 
 in the fifteen jails of which I have been a tenant. 
 It was in a jail in Dublin, called the Four Courts' 
 Marshalsea, that a feeling of confidence that I 
 might one day be President of the United States 
 first came into definite form. It was in this prison, 
 also, that I planned Train Villa, which was to be 
 built in Newport. As my life in that Villa, which 
 in its day was one of the most famous and luxuri- 
 ous in America, was a sort of prelude to my 
 campaign for the Presidency, I may fitly say here 
 what I have to say about it in this book. 
 
 I had long wanted a handsome residence by the 
 sea, and so, when I had nearly completed the work 
 done in connection with the Union Pacific Eailway, 
 and there seemed to be ahead of me a period of 
 comparative leisure, I projected this house. My 
 
 314 
 
a 
 
 CD 
 
 be 
 
 o 
 
 '3 
 
A CANDIDATE FOE PKESIDENT 
 
 plans were made before I was in the Dublin jail. 
 My wife built tbe Villa, or began work on it, while I 
 was still in the Marshalsea. The lot on which it 
 stands embraced some two and a half acres in the 
 most delightful region of Newport. In order that 
 my boys might have an opportunity for sport at 
 home, I had a building put up for billiards and 
 bowling. This was, I believe, the first residence 
 in Newport that had a special place of this kind, 
 although of course, many had billiard tables. A 
 fine cottage was also built for my father-in-law. 
 Colonel George T. M. Davis. This cottage was 
 sold recently for $50,000, to the Dolans of Phila- 
 delphia. 
 
 The Villa itself must have cost $100,000, but 
 the truth is, I have never known bow much money 
 was lavished upon its building and adornment. I 
 was called rich and had never, at any time, given a 
 thought to the mere details of money. What I 
 wanted I got. In those days that was the sub- 
 stance of my economic system in personal matters. 
 We lived there in manorial style, entertaining so 
 lavishly and freely that the Villa became a free 
 guest-house for all Newport. I also recollect that 
 my living cost me more than $2,000 a week. Now I 
 manage to live on $3 a week in the Mills Hotel, or 
 Palace, as I call it. Here I am more contented 
 than I was at Newport. I seem to be saving $1,997 
 a week. We turned out, in Newport, six carriages 
 when we went driving; but this was a display that 
 23 315 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 I always set my heart against. It seemed to be 
 mere wastefulness. 
 
 Since my occupancy, Train Villa, as it is called 
 to this day, has been rented by some of the most 
 prominent persons in the fashionable world. 
 Among those who have lived in it are the Ker- 
 nochans, the Kips, Governor Lippitt of Ehode Is- 
 land, some of the Vanderbilts and the Mortimers. 
 At the present time, it is occupied by George B. de 
 Forest. It was formerly rented for $5,000 for 
 three months or the season. It never paid us two 
 per centxmi on its cost, and finally was sold by the 
 trustee, Colonel Davis. 
 
 The Villa was once turned into a jail, although 
 I was not the captive in that instance. In the 
 famous Credit Mobiher case, in '72-'73, a man, 
 who was my guest at the time, was arrested, and, 
 as the Credit Mobilier men then in Newport could 
 not give bail in the sum of $1,000,000, as demanded, 
 an arrangement was made with the sheriff by 
 which the Villa temporarily became a jail, where 
 my guest was confined. 
 
 So full of confidence was I that I could be 
 elected President in '72, that I telegraphed from 
 San Francisco that I would reach Newport on a 
 certain day, and wished arrangements made for a 
 "Presidential" banquet. Although this banquet 
 was not the end of the campaign, it was the last 
 flourish of trumpets in my Presidential aspirations. 
 
 My political career in fact was brief. My in- 
 316 
 
A CANDIDATE FOR PRESIDENT 
 
 tention was to have it extend througli at least a 
 Presidential term; but the people would not have 
 it so. Prior to '69, 70, 71, and 72, 1 had taken no 
 active part in politics, although I had been in- 
 terested in various campaigns and in many great 
 public questions of the day. I have already re- 
 ferred to the offer made to me by the revolution- 
 ists in Australia to make me their President. That 
 was, perhaps, the first time that anything political 
 ever entered my life. The offer was by no means a 
 temptation to me and I refused to consider it, with- 
 out a single poignant regret. 
 
 In '65, the Fenians, after I had espoused the 
 general cause of the Irish, as of the oppressed of 
 every country, asked me to attend their first con- 
 vention, which was to be held in Philadelphia. 
 They wished me to address them. This I did, but 
 I took no active part in the work of the convention 
 or of the faction. I had already attended the 
 Democratic Convention in Louisville in '64, when 
 I held a proxy from Nebraska, and had hoped to 
 have General Dix nominated for President and 
 Admiral Farragut for Vice-President, but I was 
 not permitted to take my seat. 
 
 While I was in the Four Courts' Marshalsea, 
 in Dublin, in '68, James Brooks, of the New York 
 Express, sent word to me that the Democrats in 
 convention were willing to nominate Salmon P. 
 Chase if I would consent to take the second place 
 on the ticket. This did not suit me at all, and I 
 
 317 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 sent a despatcli to Brooks that I would take the 
 first place only, and that as Chase was my friend, 
 he could take the second placeJ This put an end to 
 the negotiations. 
 
 But the seed of ambition had been sown, even 
 before this, and it germinated in the old Irish 
 prison. As soon as I got out of that jail, I began 
 my campaign for President of the United States, 
 and in '69 started on a program that involved 1,000 
 addresses to 1,000 conventions. It seemed to me 
 that, with the effect I had always had upon people 
 in my speeches and in personal contact, and with 
 the record of great achievements in behalf of the 
 progress of the world, especially with regard to 
 the development of this country, I should succeed. 
 I supposed that a man with my record, and with- 
 out a staiu on my reputation or blemish in my 
 character, would be received as a popular can- 
 didate. 
 
 I had not the slightest doubt that I should be 
 elected; and, with this sublime self-confidence, 
 threw myself into the campaign with an energy 
 and fire that never before, perhaps, characterized 
 a Presidential candidate. I went into the cam- 
 paign as into a battle. I forced fighting at every 
 point along the line, fiercely assailing Grant and his 
 " nepotism," on the one hand, and Greeley, and the 
 spirit of compromise and barter that I felt his 
 nomination represented, on the other. 
 
 In the year '69 1 had made twenty-eight speeches 
 318 
 
A CANDIDATE FOR PRESIDENT 
 
 in California, and eighty on the Pacific coast. I 
 also made a trip over the Union Pacific Railway, 
 on the first train over that line, and made ad- 
 dresses at many places throughout the country. 
 The following year, '70, I seriously set myself to 
 the task of appealing to the people directly for 
 support, and began a series of public addresses on 
 the issues of the day. But this year's work was 
 interrupted by my trip around the world in eighty 
 days, which consumed the end of the year, from 
 the 1st of August to Christmas. 
 
 In '71 I fought hard from January to Decem- 
 ber, making the total of my speeches to the people 
 800, and having spoken directly, up to that time, 
 to something like 2,000,000 persons. Of course, 
 my campaign was made on independent lines en- 
 tirely. I was not the nominee nor the complaisant 
 tool of any party or faction. I made my race as 
 one who came from the bosom of the people, 
 and who represented the highest interests of the 
 people. It was just here that failure came. I 
 thought I Imew something of the people, and felt 
 confident that they would prefer a man of inde- 
 pendence, who had accomplished something for 
 them, to a man who was a mere tool of his party, 
 a distributor of patronage to his friends and rela- 
 tives, or to one who was a mere stalking-horse. 
 But I was mistaken. The people, as Bamum has 
 said, love to be hmnbugged, and are quite ready 
 to pay tribute to the political boss and spoilsman. 
 
 319 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 A remarkable feature of my campaign was that, 
 instead of scattering money broadcast, to draw 
 crowds or to win votes, I made a charge for ad- 
 mission to hear my addresses. I spoke to audiences 
 that paid to hear me talk to them in my own be- 
 half and in theirs. In three years of active work — 
 with the interruption of my trip around the world 
 in '70 — I took in $90,000 in admission charges. In 
 spite of these charges, I spoke to more people and 
 had greater audiences to listen to me than any 
 other speaker during that heated campaign. 
 
 There was another remarkable thing about my 
 campaign. I possessed tremendous power over 
 audiences. So long as I could reach them with my 
 voice, or talk with them or shake hands with them, 
 I could hold them ; but the moment they got out of 
 my reach they got away from me, and slipped back 
 again to the sway of the political bosses. 
 
 I saw that my chance of getting the nomina- 
 tion was lost long before the assembling of the Lib- 
 eral Republican Convention of '72 in Cincinnati. I 
 was not astonished by the result of that conven- 
 tion, except that I did not expect the nomination 
 of Grreeley, which I considered as a piece of politi- 
 cal treachery, a deliberately calculated movement 
 in the interest of Grant. But I still felt, vainly, 
 indeed, some hope that the people would see the 
 futility of supporting Greeley, and of placing me 
 at the head of the ticket. 
 
 I can recall now the scenes in the Convention 
 320 
 
A CANDIDATE FOR PRESIDENT 
 
 Hall when Carl Schurz nominated Horace Greeley. 
 Outside of some cheering on the part of those who 
 were party to the trickery, the nomination was re- 
 ceived with ominous stillness. Suddenly, from out 
 of the gallery, near where I was seated, there came 
 a thin, quavering, piercing voice, like the cry of a 
 seer of the wilderness or a wandering Jeremiah: 
 " Sold, by God, but the goods not delivered ! " 
 
 The words sounded then like a pronouncement 
 of doom ; but it proved not to be so. The " deal " 
 was carried out, and the " goods " were delivered. 
 Grant was elected, and Greeley, betrayed, retired, 
 a heart-broken man. 
 
 Before I close this chapter on the Presidency, 
 I wish to record here one distinct service which I 
 believe I rendered this city and the country during 
 my campaign. It was I, and not the New York 
 newspapers, that first exposed the so-called 
 " Tweed Ring." I began the fight against this ring 
 of corrupt politicians, single-handed, and kept it 
 up for more than a year before any New York 
 paper or any other journal took up the issue. The 
 New York papers, in fact, refused to publish my 
 speech exposing this gang of public plunderers, 
 and it was published in the Lyons, N. Y., Republi- 
 can on April 22, '71. The speech itself was made 
 long before Tweed had been accused of misuse of 
 public funds. 
 
 While I was on the platform, a voice asked me 
 "Who is the ring?" I tad been attacking the 
 
 321 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 " ring " in every public utterance in New York. I 
 replied: "Hoffman, Tweed, Sweeney, Fisk, and 
 Gould." Later, in the same speech, I said : " Tweed 
 and Sweeney are taxing you from head to foot, 
 while their horses are living in palaces," and then, 
 using, for effect, some of the methods of the 
 French Commune, I cried : " To the lamp-post ! 
 All those in favor of hanging Tweed to a lamp- 
 post, say aye ! " There was a tremendous out- 
 burst of " ayes." 
 
 In other speeches I went into details and gave 
 the sums of which the people of New York had 
 been plundered, and the amounts that had been 
 paid in bribes to obtain influence in stilling public 
 suspicion, and to buy immunity from exposure and 
 opportunity for further theft. 
 
 So my campaign for the Presidency was not 
 entirely in vain. It was something that seemed un- 
 avoidable, toward which I seemed pressed by cir- 
 cumstance and fate; and I can rest in the con- 
 sciousness that it accomplished some permanent 
 good. 
 
 322 
 
CHAPTER XXVn 
 
 DECLARED A LUNATIC 
 1872-1873 
 
 I HAD hardly got out of the Presidential race 
 before I got into jail again. I passed easily from 
 one kind of life to the other. In fact, the last thing 
 I did in connection with my political campaign had 
 been the indirect cause of getting me into the 
 Tombs. The Tombs has the honor of being the 
 fourteenth jail that has given me shelter for pur- 
 poses of meditation. 
 
 In November, '72, I was making a speech from 
 Henry Clews's steps in Wall Street, partly to quiet 
 a mob, when a paper was thrust into my hand. I 
 glanced at it, thinking it had to do with myself, and 
 saw that Victoria C. WoodhuU and Tennie C. Claf- 
 lin had been arrested for publishing in their paper 
 in Brooklyn an account of a scandal about a famous 
 clergyman in that city. The charge was " obscen- 
 ity," and they had been arrested at the instance of 
 Anthony Comstock, I immediately said : " This 
 may be libel, but it is not obscenity." 
 
 That assertion, with what I soon did to estab- 
 323 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 lish its truth, got me into jail, with the result 
 that six courts in succession — afraid to bring me 
 to trial for " obscenity "—declared me a " luna- 
 tic," and prevented my enjoyment of property in 
 Omaha, Nebraska, which is now worth millions of 
 dollars. 
 
 From Wall Street I hurried to Ludlow Street 
 Jail, where I found Victoria C. Woodhull and 
 Tennie 0. Claflin in a cell about eight by four feet. 
 I was indignant that two women, who had merely 
 published a current rumor, should be treated in 
 this way, and took a piece of charcoal and wrote 
 on the newly whitewashed walls of the cell a 
 couplet suggesting the baseness of this attack upon 
 their reputations. It is sufficient to say here that 
 public feeling was so aroused that these women 
 were soon set free; but I got myself deeper and 
 deeper into the toils of the courts. 
 
 In order to prove that the publication was not 
 obscene, if judged by Christian standards of pu- 
 rity, I published in my paper, called The Train 
 Ligue, three columns of quotations from the Bible. 
 Every verse I used was worse than anything pub- 
 lished by these women. I was immediately ar- 
 rested on a charge of "obscenity," and taken 
 to the Tombs. I was never tried on this charge, 
 but was kept in jail as a lunatic, and then dis- 
 missed, under the ban of declared lunacy, and 
 have so remained for thirty years. Although 
 the public pretended to be against me, it was 
 
 324 
 

 o 
 
DECLAEED A LUNATIC 
 
 very eager to buy the edition of my paper that 
 gave these extracts from the Bible. The price of 
 the paper rose from five cents a copy to twenty, 
 forty, sixty cents, and even to one dollar. In a few 
 days it was selling surreptitiously for two dollars 
 a copy. 
 
 I was put in Tweed's cell, number 56, in " Mur- 
 derers' Row," in the Tombs, where at that time 
 were twenty-two men imprisoned under the charge 
 of jnurder. I made the twenty-third inhabitant of 
 that ghastly "Row." It is remarkable that not 
 one of these men was hanged. All were either 
 acquitted, or tried and sentenced and got off with 
 varying terms of service. 
 
 It was not a select, but it was at least a famous, 
 group of men in " Murderers' Row." Across the 
 narrow hallway, just opposite my cell, was Ed- 
 ward S. Stokes, who had killed James Fisk, Jr. 
 Next to me were John J. Scannell and Richard 
 Croker, both of whom have been prominent in the 
 city administration in later years. There was, also, 
 the famous Sharkey, who might have got into worse 
 trouble than any of us, but who escaped through 
 the pluck and ingenuity of Maggie Jordan. Maggie 
 happened to be about the same size as her lover, 
 and changed clothes with him in the cell. The 
 warden, one morning, found he had a woman in his 
 cage instead of Sharkey. This was the last ever 
 heard of S'laa'key, so far as I know. 
 
 My chief purpose in jail was not to get out, but 
 ^ 325 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 to be tried on the charge of obscenity. I had been 
 arrested for that offense, and determined that I 
 would be either acquitted or convicted. But I have 
 never had a trial to this day. I do not believe that 
 any court in the land would face the danger of try- 
 ing to convict a man of publishing obscenity for 
 quoting from the standard book on morality read 
 throughout Christendom. 
 
 However this may be, I was offered a hundred 
 avenues of escape from jail, every conceivable one, 
 except the honest and straightforward one of a 
 fair trial by jury. Men offered to bail me out; 
 twice I was taken out on proceedings instituted by 
 women; but I would not avail myself of this way 
 to freedom. Several times I was left alone in the 
 court-house or in hallways, or other places, where 
 access to the street was easy, entirely without 
 guards, in the vain hope that I would walk off with 
 my liberty. I was discharged by the courts ; and I 
 was offered freedom if I would sign certain papers 
 that were brought to me, but I invariably refused 
 to look at them. In all cases I merely turned back 
 and took my place in the cell, and waited for 
 justice. 
 
 In 73 I was finally taken before Judge Davis 
 in the Court of Oyer and Terminer. William F. 
 Howe, who died this year, was one of my coun- 
 sel, and Clark Bell was another. Howe took 
 the ground, first, that obviously th^:^ could be 
 nothing obscene in the publication of extracts 
 
 326 
 
DECLAKED A LUNATIC 
 
 from the Bible, and, second, if there were, that I 
 was insane at the time of the publication. The 
 judge hastily said that he would instruct the 
 jury to acquit me if the defense took this posi- 
 tion. Mr. Bell then asked that a simple ver- 
 dict of "not guilty" be rendered; but the judge 
 insisted upon its form being "Not guilty, on 
 the ground of insanity." This verdict was 
 taken. 
 
 I rose immediately, and said : " I protest against 
 this whole proceeding. I have been four months 
 in jail ; and I have had no trial for the offense with 
 which I am charged." I felt that I was in the same 
 plight as Paul. The Bible and the Church, surely, 
 could not condemn me for quoting Scripture ; and 
 I had appealed unto Caesar; but Caesar refused, 
 out of sheer cowardice, to hear me and try me. I 
 was not even listened to when I made this protest, 
 and I shouted, so that all must hear me : " Your 
 honor, I move your impeachment in the name of 
 the people ! " 
 
 The sensation was tremendous. " Sit down ! " 
 roared the judge. He evidently thought that I 
 would attack him. An order committing me to the 
 State Lunatic Asylum was issued, and I was taken 
 back to the Tombs. But I did not go to the asylum. 
 Another writ of habeas corpus took me out of jail, 
 and I at last turned my back on the Tombs— a 
 lunatic by judicial decree. I hope that the courts, 
 inasmuch as I am their ward, and have been for 
 
 327, 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 thirty years, have protected me in my rights, and 
 have safeguarded those interests in Omaha where 
 some millions of dollars depend upon the question 
 of my sanity. 
 
 The moment I was taken out of the Tombs, 
 I went down town, had a bath, got a good meal, 
 put on better clothes, and bought passage for 
 England. I went to join my family at Homburg, 
 as my sons were then in Germany, studying at 
 Frankfort. 
 
 This WoodhuU-Claflin affair had far-reaching 
 eifects. Besides leaving me for thirty years in 
 the grip of the court, it affected many other 
 persons. I shall refer here only to one of these, 
 the publisher of a newspaper in Toledo, who 
 printed some of the matter that I had printed in 
 New York. He was prosecuted, and his paper and 
 press were seized. The poor fellow asked me to 
 lecture in his interest. I could not do this, but 
 helped him to raise some money to buy a new 
 printing-press. This was in August, '83, when I 
 was at Vevay, Switzerland. 
 
 A worthless piece of paper eventually fell into 
 the hands of another man, who proceeded to 
 prosecute me, and, with the assistance of the 
 courts, kept me in the Charles Street Jail, Boston, 
 for some time. I was arrested for this old debt of 
 another man, and was refused the constitutional 
 relief of habeas corpus by Judge Devins and five 
 other judges of Massachusetts. The amount of 
 
 328 
 
DECLAEED A LUNATIC 
 
 the debt had steadily increased, and was $800 in 
 '89. Finally, I went before Judge McKim, and he 
 at once dismissed the case as groundless. 
 
 •This brought my jail experiences to a close. 
 Was it fitting that Boston, where I had lived and 
 worked; where I had devised the building of the 
 greatest ships the world had known up to that 
 time; where I had projected and organized the 
 clipper-ship service to California, and opened a 
 new era in the carrying trade of the world, and 
 where I had organized the Union Pacific Eailway 
 to develop the entire West and draw continents 
 nearer together, should put me in jail for a petty 
 debt that I did not owe, as in some sort an evidence 
 of its gratitude? 
 
 My prison experience has been more varied 
 than that of the most confirmed and hardened 
 criminal ; and yet I have never committed a crime, 
 cheated a human being, or told a lie. I have been 
 imprisoned in almost every sort of jail that man 
 has devised. I have been in police stations, in 
 Marshalseas in England and in Ireland, in common 
 jails in Boston, in the Bastile of Lyons, in the Pre- 
 fecture at Tours as the prisoner of Gambetta, 
 Dictator of France, and in the famous old Tombs 
 of New York. I have used prisons well. They 
 have been as schools to me, where I have reflected, 
 and learned more about myself — and a man's own 
 self is the best object of any one's study. I have, 
 also, made jails the source of fruitful ideas, and 
 
 329 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 from them have launched many of my most start- 
 ling and useful projects and innovations. And so 
 they have not been jails to me, any more than they 
 were to Lovelace : 
 
 " stone walls do not a prison make, 
 Kor iron bars a cage; 
 Minds innocent and quiet take 
 That for an hermitage.'' 
 
 330 
 
CHAPTER XXVin 
 
 AKOUND THE WORLD IN EIGHTY, SIXTY-SEVEN, 
 
 AND SIXTY DAYS 
 
 1870, 1890, 1892 
 
 I WENT around the world in eighty days in the 
 year '70, two years before Jules Verne wrote his 
 famous romance, Le Tour du Monde en Quatre- 
 vingts Jours, which was founded upon my voy- 
 age. Since then I have made two tours of the 
 world, one in sixty-seven and a half days, and the 
 other in sixty. The last voyage still stands as the 
 record trip in circling the globe. 
 
 I have always been something of a traveler, 
 restless in my earlier years, and never averse to 
 visiting new scenes and experiencing new sensa- 
 tions. In Australasia I had improved every op- 
 portunity to see the new world of the South Seas, 
 and later had visited every part of the Orient that 
 I could by any possibility reach during my vari- 
 ous journeys in that portion of the globe. Europe 
 I had traversed quite thoroughly, from the Crimea 
 to Nijnii Novgorod, from the Volga to the Thames, 
 from Spain to Finland. When I left Australia it 
 23 331 
 
MY LITE IN MANY STATES 
 
 was my intention to establish a great business in 
 Yokohama, and, when that had been done, I in- 
 tended to pass on across the Pacific, thus girdling 
 the globe; but my first effort to go around the 
 world was prevented by the war in the Crimea, 
 and so I turned back and came home, as already 
 described, by way of China, India, Egypt, and 
 Europe. 
 
 The desire for travel possessed me mightily in 
 '69, just after the golden spike was driven at the 
 completion of the Union Pacific Eailway, by which 
 California and New York were made nearer one 
 another by many days of travel. The circumfer- 
 ence of the globe had been shrunken. I wanted, 
 naturally, to be the first man to utilize the great 
 advantage thus given to travel by making the 
 quickest trip around the world. 
 
 After closing my lecture tour on the Pacific 
 coast in the spring and summer of 70, I prepared 
 for such a trip, carefully calculating that it could 
 be made within eighty days, even with the inevi- 
 table losses due to bad connections at different 
 ports. I wanted to take my sons, George and 
 Elsey, with me, but, at the last moment, they were 
 prevented from going. I found out only a few 
 days ago, when accusing my daughter Sue of keep- 
 ing them in Newport, that their mother had given 
 them ten golden eagles each not to go. I sailed 
 from San Francisco August 1, 70. On the same 
 ship was Susan B. King, whom I found in San 
 
 332 
 
TRIPS AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Francisco waiting to sail, as she was tired of the 
 way her affairs were going in New York and 
 wanted a long trip for rest and recreation. She 
 had $30,000 with her, which she said she would try 
 to invest profitably on the voyage. She was then 
 quite an old woman, as the world generally esti- 
 mates age. 
 
 I made Yokohama in very good time, and went 
 immediately to the Japanese capital, the new seat 
 of the Emperor, Tokyo. I may record here a very 
 curious thing. I believe I was the last man — the 
 last foreigner, at least — who had taken part in an 
 old national custom of Japan, by which persons of 
 opposite sex bathe together, without bathing suits. 
 It was then considered, in that land of good morals 
 and fine esthetic sense, that no impropriety was 
 involved in this custom. Manners and customs 
 there were open and free as in Greece, when 
 Athens was " the eye of Greece " and the center of 
 the world's civilization. I went to one of the pub- 
 lic baths to experience a decidedly new sensation. 
 I was allowed to bathe with old men and women, 
 young men and maidens — and no one, except, per- 
 haps, myself, felt any degree of embarrassment or 
 false modesty. 
 
 But the fact that a foreigner was bathing in 
 this way with Japanese women and girls made 
 something of a stir in Tokyo that had been unex- 
 pected by me. It seems that, a short time before, 
 some Englishmen had gone into one of the public 
 
 333 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 baths and made themselves very offensive. This 
 had taught the Japanese that they could not trust 
 the foreigner, and they had already nearly decided 
 to exclude foreigners from their baths, or to 
 separate the sexes. My experience was, therefore, 
 the last, as I believe. After this the sexes were 
 not permitted to bathe together, 
 
 I observed that the Japanese used small paper 
 packages for tea, thus making it convenient to 
 handle tea. I then recalled the custom of the 
 Chinese in compressing tea for transportation by 
 caravan to the great Fair of Nijnii Novgorod, 
 Here was an opportunity, I thought, and I sug- 
 gested to Susan B, King that she might invest her 
 $30,000 to good purpose in sending to New York 
 a cargo of tea put up in little paper packages, and 
 that, if she wanted to try it, I would give her 
 letters to men in Canton who could arrange the 
 matter for her. She undertook the scheme, and I 
 wrote a description of it for Anglin's Gazette, in 
 Yokohama, The tea was shipped to New York, 
 and was handled at the Demorest headquarters. 
 The tea was in half-pound and pound packages. 
 This was long before Sir Thomas Lipton employed 
 this method of putting up teas. 
 
 At Saigon, in French Cochin-China, I met the 
 United States ship Alaska; and from that port 
 sailed on a ship of the Messagerie Imperiale line 
 for Marseilles. The remainder of the voyage was 
 uneventful, except for the diversion just before we 
 
 334 
 
TRIPS AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 left Singapore of hearing the news of the fall of the 
 Second Empire, the defeat of Louis Napoleon at 
 Sedan, and the establishment of the republic. 
 
 I have already" recorded, in the chapter on the 
 Commune in France, my arrival at Marseilles and 
 my experiences in the brief period of my visit. 
 After I had been arrested and liberated, and had 
 had my interview with Gambetta at Tours, I 
 passed on rapidly to New York, and finished my 
 tour of the world inside of eighty days. 
 
 My second trip was made in the year '90. I 
 planned it while I was in jail in Boston for a debt 
 that I did not contract. There had been some note- 
 worthy efforts on the part of newspaper writers 
 to make a record-breaking trip, and Miss Bisland 
 had gone aroimd in seventy-eight days, while 
 Nellie Bly had succeeded in making the voyage in 
 seventy-three days. I proposed to Col. John A. 
 Cockerill, of the New York World, who had sent 
 Nellie Bly on her trip, to make the circuit in less 
 time ; but he did not care to upset the World's own 
 record. I then telegraphed to Eadebaugh, pro- 
 prietor of the Tacoma Ledger, that if he would 
 raise $1,000 for a lecture in Tacoma, I would make 
 a trip around the world in less than seventy days. 
 He told me to come on. 
 
 As I started West, to sail on the Abyssinia, I 
 received message after message from Eadebaugh. 
 Instead of the $1,000 I had asked for, $1,500 had 
 been subscribed by the time I reached Chicago, and 
 
 335 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 at St. Paul it had gone up to $3,500. I soon 
 reached Tacoma, and lectured there to an immense 
 audience, taking in $4,200, the largest amount ever 
 paid for a single lecture — and sailed out into the 
 Pacific March 18th. I was accompanied by S. "W. 
 Wall, editor of the Ledger. Lafcadio Hearn, the 
 distinguished writer, was on the same ship, on his 
 way to Japan. He was so ill that he did not leave 
 his stateroom during the voyage. 
 
 We made Yokohama in sixteen days, and the 
 moment I landed I telegraphed to the American 
 legation at Tokyo to get me a passport. It had 
 always taken three days to get a passport, but I 
 said that I must have this at once, and I got it. 
 In seven hours I was on the way to Kobe, over- 
 land, three hundred miles across Japan. I caught 
 the German ship for Nagasaki, from which point, 
 after a short delay, I sailed for Hongkong. In a 
 trip of this kind, of course, one sees little of in- 
 terest. It is a mere question of rushing from 
 vessel to vessel the moment you get into port, or 
 of catching trains, or of chartering boats to bridge 
 gaps, or of haggling with ship-captains or railway 
 managers about getting extra accommodations at 
 very extra prices. 
 
 My longest delay was at Singapore, where I 
 lost forty hours. The next longest loss of time 
 was in New York — ^wonderful to relate — ^where I 
 was delayed thirty-six hours, although four rail- 
 ways were competing for the honor of taking me 
 
 336 
 
TRIPS AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 across the continent on a record-breaking journey. 
 I arrived on Saturday, and had to charter a special 
 car — ^which cost $1,500 — and could not get away 
 until Monday morning. I was near being delayed 
 a day at Calais, France, but succeeded in charter- 
 ing a boat to take me over the Channel. As this 
 boat carried the British mails, I was relieved of the 
 expense by the British Government. 
 
 At Portland I met with a most annoying delay 
 of five hours, due entirely to mismanagement. 
 This most unexpectedly lengthened out my tour at 
 the very end, and so angered me that I refused to 
 attend a banquet the people had prepared for me. 
 I pushed on to Tacoma as soon as I could get any- 
 thing to carry me, and arrived there exactly sixty- 
 seven days, thirteen hours, two minutes, and fifty- 
 five seconds from the time I had started. The 
 actual time of traveling was fifty-nine days and 
 seven hours. Seven days and five hours had been 
 lost. This was then the fastest trip around the 
 world. It has been beaten since by myself. 
 
 As I had started on my second trip from a 
 Pacific coast point, there was a good deal of rivalry 
 among the growing towns in that section with re- 
 gard to the honor of being the starting-point of my 
 third trip in '92, in which I eclipsed all previous 
 records. I had already announced that this could 
 readily be done, as the Pacific steamships were 
 very much faster than they had been at the time of 
 my former voyage, and as the connections at vari- 
 
 337 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 ous ports were much better. Sir "William Van 
 Home had also written that he wanted me to make 
 another tour of the world, using one of the fast 
 ships of the Canadian Pacific road, the famous 
 Empresses, that soon would be put on the line to 
 Yokohama. The new town of Whatcom, on Puget 
 Sound, in the extreme northwest of Washington, 
 raised the amount necessary for the trip, and I 
 made my start from that point, catching the Em- 
 press of India from Vancouver. 
 
 An account of this voyage would necessarily be 
 only a panoramic glance at a narrow line around 
 the world. I made Yokohama in eleven days, was 
 at Kobe, Japan, in thirteen, and at Shanghai in 
 fifteen. Here I had some difficulty in finding a fast 
 steamer for Singapore, but succeeded in getting 
 aboard a swift German boat, the Priga, which put 
 me in Singapore in time to catch the Moyune, the 
 last of the fast tea ships, and on her I sailed as 
 far as Port Said, through the Suez Canal, At 
 Port Said I boarded the Ismaila for Brindisij 
 Italy. Then I again rushed across Europe, and 
 caught the Majestic at Liverpool for New York. 
 I found a distinguished company on board, 
 including Ambassador John Hay, D, O. Mills, 
 Lady Stewart, Mrs, Paran Stevens, and Senator 
 Spooner. 
 
 I arrived in New York in good time, had a very 
 slight delay in comparison with that of my second 
 voyage, and went flying across the continent to 
 
 338 
 
it) 
 
 a 
 S 
 
 ,j,-.|.4 4, ,, A„\ 
 
TRIPS AEOUND THE WORLD 
 
 Whatcom. The entire trip, giving a complete cir- 
 cuit of the globe, was made in sixty days. 
 
 To these three trips I attach no more impor- 
 tance, I hope, than is fairly their due. In each of 
 them, in succession, I had beaten all previous 
 records of travel; and this was something in the 
 interests of all persons who travel, as showing 
 what could be done under stress, and as a stim- 
 ulus to greater efforts to reduce the long months 
 and days consumed on voyages from country to 
 country. But they were, as I consider them, 
 merely incidents in a life that has better things to 
 show. One of these voyages, the one in which I 
 " put a girdle round the earth " in eighty days, has 
 the honor of having given the suggestion for one of 
 the most interesting romances in literature. This, 
 at least, is something. 
 
 But I give this brief account of my voyages, at 
 the end of my autobiography, chiefly because I re- 
 gard them as somewhat typical of my life. I have 
 lived fast. I have ever been an advocate of speed. 
 I was bom into a slow world, and I wished to oil 
 the wheels and gear, so that the machine would 
 spin faster and, withal, to better purposes. I sug- 
 gested larger and fleeter ships, to shorten travel on 
 the ocean. I built street-railways, so that the work- 
 ers of the world might save a few minutes from 
 their days of pitiless toil, and so might have a little 
 leisure for enjoyment and self-improvement. I 
 built great railway liaes— the Atlantic and Great 
 
 339 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Western, and the Union Pacific — that the continent 
 might be traversed by men and commerce more 
 rapidly, and its waste places made to blossom like 
 the rose. I wished to add a stimulus, a spur, a 
 goad — if necessary — that the slow, old world 
 might go on more swiftly, " and fetch the age of 
 gold," with more leisure, more culture, more hap- 
 piness. And so I put faster ships on the oceans, 
 and faster means of travel on land. 
 
 My own rapid tours of the world are, therefore, 
 typical of my life. Thus an account of them seems 
 to round it off fitly with a "Bon voyage" to. 
 every one. 
 
 340 
 
INDEX 
 
 Achinese, subjugation of the, 
 
 178. 
 Aden, visit to, 208. 
 Adirondack Railway, 260. 
 American Merchant in Europe, 
 
 Asia, and Australia, an, 222. 
 Andaman Islands, 204. 
 Anglo-American, the, 72, 144. 
 Anglo-Saxon, the, 55, 58, 72. 
 Anjer, visit of the natives at, 
 
 174. 
 Antietam, Battle of, 282. 
 Ariens, Admiral, 251. 
 Around the world tours, 331. 
 Around the World in Eighty 
 
 Days, 301, 331. 
 Ashburner, George, 204. 
 Astor, John Jacob, Jr., 44. 
 Atlantic and Great Western 
 
 Railway, 237, 269. 
 Australia, begin business in, 
 
 127; gold-fever in, 130, 141; 
 
 outlaws of, 152, 156; railway 
 
 system of, 269; rebellion in, 
 
 156. 
 Austria, travels in, 233. 
 
 Bailey, Crawshay, and Atlantic 
 and Great Western Railway, 
 244. 
 
 Balaklava, visit to, 217. 
 
 Balmoral, visit to, 92. 
 
 Banka, tin mines of, 179. 
 
 Banking and gambling com- 
 pared, 86. 
 
 Banks, Gen. Nathaniel P., 38, 
 58. 
 
 Baring, Thomas, visit to Amer- 
 ica, 71. 
 
 Hartley, Judge, 244. 
 
 Bastile at Lyons, a prisoner in 
 the, 310. 
 
 Batavia, Java, beauty of, 175. 
 
 Bemis, Emery, 37. 
 
 Bemis, George Pickering, 8, 48, 
 273, 311. 
 
 Bennett, James Gordon, 222. 
 
 Beyrout, visit to, 215. 
 
 Birkenhead, tramways in, 261. 
 
 Black Hole of Calcutta, 205. 
 
 Blockade running, 272. 
 
 Bly, Nellie, trip round the 
 world, 335. 
 
 Bombay, India, railroad in, 270. 
 
 "Bonanza nugget," the, story 
 of, 141. 
 
 Boomerang, the, 169. 
 
 Booth, Edwin, in Melbourne, 
 166. 
 
 Botany Bay, 144. 
 
 341 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Bougevine, Gen., in China, 196. 
 
 Bowling, skill in, 79; in Aus- 
 tralia, 135. 
 
 Braemar, meeting with Lord 
 John Kussell at, 92. 
 
 Bridges, the phrenologist, 122. 
 
 Briticisms, 91. 
 
 Brooke, "Sarawak," 179. 
 
 Brougham, John, visit to Liver- 
 pool, 124. 
 
 Bunker Hill Day, 112. 
 
 Buiy, Lord, 105. 
 
 Bushnell, the actor, in Mel- 
 bourne, 167. 
 
 Cairo, land trip from Suez to, 
 
 209. 
 Calcutta, visit to, 204. 
 Caldwell, Captain, partner in 
 
 the Australian house, 127, 
 
 136, 223. 
 California, discovery of gold in, 
 
 71. 
 Canada, visit to, 86. 
 Canning, Lord, Governor-Gen- 
 eral of India, 207. 
 Canton, visit to, 182, 185. 
 Cape May, in 1850, 79. 
 Carleton, Mrs., meeting with, 
 
 83. 
 Castiglione, Countess, 230. 
 Ceylon, visit to, 208. 
 Chatsworth, visit to, 102. 
 China, visit to, 180; population 
 
 of, 190. 
 Chinese, civilization of the, 
 
 197; customs of the, 190; 
 
 honesty of the, 187. 
 Choate, Rufus, retained in the 
 
 Franklin case, 62. 
 Chronicle, London, purchase of 
 
 the, 272, 
 
 Cincinnati, honeymoon trip to, 
 116. 
 
 Civil War in the United States, 
 England and the, 271. 
 
 Claflin, Tennie C, arrest of, 
 323. 
 
 Clarke, John, Jr., 7, 9. 
 
 Clay, Cassius M., debate with, 
 279. 
 
 Clay, Henry, calls on, 81. 
 
 Cluseret, Gen. Gustave Paul, 
 summoned from Switzerland, 
 305. 
 
 Collie, Alexander, 180. 
 
 Collingwood, home at, 135. 
 
 Commune, the, 301. 
 
 Constantine, Grand Duke, meet- 
 ing with, at Strelna, 251. 
 
 Constantinople, visit to, 216. 
 
 Cook, Captain, in Botany Bay, 
 145. 
 
 Copenhagen, tramway in, 269. 
 
 Cozzens's Hotel, Omaha, 296. 
 
 Credit Foncier, 285. 
 
 Credit Mobilier of America, 
 260, 285, 316. 
 
 Crimea, in the, 217. 
 
 Cristina, Queen Maria, and At- 
 lantic and Great Western 
 Railway, 227, 237. 
 
 Crystal Palace, 103, 104. 
 
 Dalhousie, Lord, Governor-Gen- 
 eral of India, 207. 
 
 Dallas, George M., 250. 
 
 Daniel Webster, the, 117. 
 
 Darlington, England, tramways 
 in, 269. 
 
 Davis, Col. George T. M., 110, 
 116, 259. 
 
 Delane, John, editor London 
 Times, 251. 
 
 342 
 
INDEX 
 
 Delmonioo's, McHenry's $15,- 
 000 dinner at, 246. 
 
 De Morny, Count, 228. 
 
 De Questa, Rodrigo, and Atlan- 
 tic and Great Western Rail- 
 way, 238. 
 
 Derby, J. C, 273. 
 
 Devonshire, Duke of, meeting 
 ■with the, 101. 
 
 Dinsmore, Mr., meeting with, 
 87. 
 
 Dombriski, Prince, received by, 
 255. 
 
 Donohue, Irish patriot, 165. 
 
 Donovan, the phrenologist, 122. 
 
 Drinking by women in 1850, 83. 
 
 Dublin, imprisonment in, 314. 
 
 Duckbill, the Australian, 169. 
 
 Durant, Dr. T. C, president of 
 Credit Mobilier, 260. 
 
 Elephants as carriers, 208. 
 
 Emerson, Ralph W., lecture at 
 Waltham, 39; engages pas- 
 sage for Europe, 60. 
 
 Emigration, Irish, to America, 
 76; of the Landsdowne ten- 
 ants, 97; to Tasmania, 148. 
 
 "Emperor, the," fountain at 
 Chatsworth, 102. 
 
 England, first impressions of, 
 90; introduction of tram- 
 ways in, 259; and the Civil 
 War in the United States, 
 271. 
 
 Excelsior, the Chinese, 193. 
 
 Fallow, Christopher and John, 
 
 239. 
 Eenton, Reuben E., 243. 
 Fillmore, Millard, President, 
 
 113. 
 
 Fiske, Stebbins, 13. 
 
 Fitzroy, Sir Charles, Governor 
 
 of New South Wales, 143. 
 "Five-Star Republic," the, of 
 
 Australia, 157. 
 Flowers, love of, 177. 
 Flying Cloud, the, 72, 221. 
 Flying-fish, experience with, 208. 
 Fowler, the phrenologist, 123. 
 France, travels in, 233. 
 Franklin, wreck of the, 61. 
 Franklin, Sir John, house in 
 
 Tasmania, 150. 
 Frost, Abigail Pickering, 10. 
 Frost, George W., 14. 
 Frost, Leonard, 39. 
 Fuchow, visit to, 200. 
 Fuller, Frank, builder of Crya- 
 
 tal Palace, 104. 
 Fuller, Col. Hiram, 93. 
 
 Gambetta, interview with, 311. 
 Gambling at Saratoga in 1850, 
 
 85. 
 Geneva, Switzerland, tramway 
 
 in, 269. 
 Georgetown Convent, visit to, 
 
 82. 
 Germany, travels in, 233. 
 Ginger, preparation of Canton, 
 
 190. 
 "Godowns," 185. 
 Golden Age, the, and Black 
 
 Warrior incident, 143. 
 Gold-fever, in California, 71; in 
 
 Australia, 130, 141. 
 Gordon, " Chinese," 196. 
 Governor Davis, the, 64. 
 Grant, U. S., election to the 
 
 presidency, 321. 
 Gray Nunnery, Montreal, visit 
 
 to the, 87. 
 
 343 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Greeley, Horace, nomination of, 
 
 320. 
 Green, B. H., in Hongkong, 
 
 182. 
 Greig, Colonel, entertained by, 
 
 254. 
 Guild, B. F., editor of Boston 
 
 Commercial Bulletin, 276. 
 
 I 
 
 Harris, Townsend, 179. 
 
 Havelock, General, 208. 
 
 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 58. 
 
 Hayes, Kate, in Melbourne, 167. 
 
 Heard, Augustine, author of 
 The Chinese Excelsior, 193, 
 200. 
 
 Henry, voyage to Boston on 
 the, 7, 16. 
 
 Herald, New York, in 1856, 221. 
 
 Hill, Rowland, English postal 
 reformer, 108. 
 
 Hobart Town, Tasmania, visit 
 to, 149. 
 
 Holmes, Joseph A., secure em- 
 ployment with, 42. 
 
 Hongkong, visits to, 182, 203. 
 
 Hooligan, finder of the " bonan- 
 za nugget," 141. 
 
 Horsemanship, 112. 
 
 Hotel scheme for London, 105. 
 
 Howe, Joseph, ex-Governor of 
 Nova Scotia, 113. 
 
 Howitt, William and Mary, 149. 
 
 Hudson, Captain, 249. 
 
 Hudson, Frederick, 222. 
 
 Hunt, Thornton, made editor 
 of London Morning Chron- 
 icle, 272. 
 
 Imprisonment, 314, 334. 
 India, visit to, 204. 
 Inventions, 106. 
 
 344 
 
 Irish immigration to America, 
 
 76. 
 Italy, travels in, 233. 
 
 Japan, leaves Australia for, 
 168, 171 ; trip abandoned, 200. 
 Java, visit to, 174. 
 Jerusalem, visit to, 211. 
 Joppa, visit to, 211. 
 Joshua Bates, the, 58, 72. 
 
 Kangaroos, Sidney Smith on, 
 
 169. 
 Keene, Laura, in Melbourne, 
 
 166. 
 Kennard, Thomas, and Atlantic 
 
 and Great Western Railway, 
 
 243. 
 King, Susan B., 332. 
 Krakatoa, volcano of, 175. 
 Kremlin, at the, 255. 
 
 Lachine Rapids, shooting the, 
 
 86. 
 Laird, John, and the Birken- 
 head tramways, 261. 
 Lake Champlain, visit to, 88. 
 Lake George, visit to, 88. 
 Lamartine, Alphonse de, meet-- 
 
 ing with Seward, 232. 
 Lansdowne, Marquis of, 97. 
 Latrobe, Governor, 158. 
 Launceston, Tasmania, visit to, 
 
 151. 
 Lawrence, Abbott, United 
 
 States Minister, 98. 
 Lawrence, Bigelow, marriage 
 
 to Sallie Ward, 114. 
 Leghorn, explosion at, 233. 
 Lemon, Mark, 105. 
 Lexington, burning of the, 10, 
 
 36. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Lightning, the, 221. 
 
 Iiigue du Midi, the, 305. 
 
 Li Hung Chang, meeting wth, 
 195. 
 
 Lillo, Leon, 227; and Atlantic 
 and Great Western Railway, 
 238. 
 
 Lincoln, President, and eman- 
 cipation, 280. 
 
 Liverpool, take charge of busi- 
 ness in, 79, 90; business fa- 
 cilities of, 94; return to, after 
 marriage, 117; introduction 
 of street-railways, 260. 
 
 London, visits to, 98, 104; in- 
 troduction of tramways, 263. 
 
 Lyons, imprisonment at, 310. 
 
 Macao, visit to, 182. 
 
 MacDonald, Sir John A., 113. 
 
 MacParlane, Eev. J. K., com- 
 panion in the Holy Land, 
 211. 
 
 McGill, James, Australian out- 
 law, 159. 
 
 McHenry, James, 94, 108, 121, 
 231; and Atlantic and Great 
 Western Railway, 237. 
 
 Maekay, Charles, author, 125. 
 
 Maekay, Donald, 72, 223. 
 
 Maekay, John W., 76. 
 
 MaeMahon, Marshal, in the 
 Crimea, 219. 
 
 Madras, visit to, 208. 
 
 Marriage, 109. 
 
 Marseilles, in the Commune, 
 301. 
 
 Marsh, John Alfred, 121. 
 
 Marshall, Matthew, Jr., and 
 Atlantic and Great Western 
 Railway, 245. 
 
 Martin, John, Irish patriot, 165. 
 
 Marvin, the hotel-keeper, 83. 
 Mavrockadatis, the, trip to 
 
 Newfoundland on, 274. 
 Melbourne, Australia, begin 
 
 business in, 127; in 1854, 
 
 133; public improvement in, 
 
 170. 
 Methodism, New England, 21, 
 
 45. 
 Mirage, a, 209. 
 Montez, Lola, in Melbourne, 
 
 167. 
 Montreal, visit to, 86. 
 Morse, Salmi, 133. 
 Moscow, visit to, 255. 
 Mount Vernon, visit to, 82. 
 Mufioz, Fernando. 237. 
 
 Nana Sahib, 208. 
 
 Naples, visit to, 234. 
 
 Napoleon, Emperor Louis, 272; 
 hatred of, 226. 
 
 New Orleans, yellow fever at, 2. 
 
 New South Wales, gold-fever 
 in, 130, 141. 
 
 New York, to sell Flying Cloud, 
 73; vacation in, 79. 
 
 Niagara Falls, visit to, 86, 111. 
 
 Nicholson, Sir Charles, 143. 
 
 Nijnii Novgorod, visit to, 256. 
 
 NorotoB, Conn., Soldiers' Home 
 in, 104. 
 
 O'Brien, Smith, Irish patriot, 
 165. 
 
 Ocean Monarch, the, 72; burn- 
 ing of, 59. 
 
 Omaha, development of, 294. 
 
 Opium trade, 67; English, in 
 China, 196. 
 
 Otis, Mrs. Harrison Grey, meet- 
 ing with, 84. 
 
 Outlaws, Australian, 152. 
 
 345 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Palestine, visit to, 211. 
 
 Paris, first visit to, 224, 
 226. 
 
 Parker, Dr., United States Min- 
 ister to China, 180. 
 
 Parliament, the, trip to Liver- 
 pool on, 90. 
 
 Faxton, Sir Joseph, meeting 
 with, 103. 
 
 Pennocic, Commander, 249. 
 
 Peto, Sir Morton, 246. 
 
 Philippines, war in the, 178. 
 
 Phillips, Wendell, and the ne- 
 gro, 281. 
 
 Phrenology, experiences with, 
 121. 
 
 Pickering, Rev. George, 1, 21. 
 
 Pickering, Judge Gilbert, 23. 
 
 Pickering, Maria, 1. 
 
 Pidgin-English, 185, 192. 
 
 Pigeon-netting, 30. 
 
 Pirates, Chinese, 182, 201. 
 
 Plymouth Rock, the, trip to 
 Melbourne on, 127. 
 
 Point de Galle, Ceylon, visit to, 
 208. 
 
 Porter, Capt. David D., visits 
 Melbourne, 143. 
 
 Portland, Ore., speech at, 297. 
 
 Presidential aspirations, 314. 
 
 Pyramids, trip to the, 209. 
 
 Railway building, in Australia, 
 131, 269; Atlantic and Great 
 Western Railway, 237, 269; 
 English street-railways, 259; 
 Union Pacific Railway, 269, 
 283. 
 
 Red Jacket, the, 221; the in- 
 cident at Melbourne, 138. 
 
 Rhoades, Sallie, 24. 
 
 Rianzares, Duke of, 227, 237. 
 
 Richardson, Albert D., Beyond 
 
 the Mississippi, 291. 
 Ripley, George, 38. 
 Ristori, meeting with, 228. 
 Rome, hailed as "liberator" in 
 
 uprising in, 235. 
 Rumford, Count, 38. 
 Rush, Mrs., meeting with, 84. 
 Russell, Lord John, meeting 
 
 with, at Braemar, 92; and 
 
 the Civil War, 272. 
 Russia, visit to, 249, 
 
 St. Petersburg, visit to, 251. 
 
 St. Petersburg, the, 64. 
 
 Sala, George Augustus, 105; in 
 America, 260. 
 
 Salamanca, Jos€ de, Spanish 
 banker, 228; and Atlantic 
 and Great Western Railway, 
 240. 
 
 San Francisco, lectures in, 
 296. 
 
 Saratoga, visit to, 83. 
 
 Savage Club of Londaa, organ- 
 ization of the, 263. 
 
 Schenck, Robert E., 244. 
 
 Scotland, visit to, 92. 
 
 Seattle, speech in, 299. 
 
 Sebastopol, visit to, 217. 
 
 Seward, William H., in Paris, 
 231; and the Mavrockadatis 
 incident, 274; in Washington, 
 281. 
 
 Seymour, Thomas H., Minister 
 to Russia, 251. 
 
 Shanghai, visit to, 194. 
 
 Shelley, Sir John Villiers, 268. 
 
 Sherman, John, 244. 
 
 Ships, naming of, 174. 
 
 Singapore, visit to, 179. 
 
 Slave trade, Chinese, 184, 203. 
 
 346 
 
INDEX 
 
 Smith, Archdeacon, meeting 
 
 with, 88. 
 Smith, Sidney, on kangaroos, 
 
 169; prophecy in regard to 
 
 Sydney, Australia, 143. 
 Smuggling, 67. 
 Smyrna, visit to, 21S. 
 Sovereign of the Seas, the, 74, 
 
 221. 
 Spectator, the London, pur- 
 chase of, 273. 
 Spence, Carroll, 217. 
 Spencer, Bishop of Jamaica, 
 
 meeting with, 88; dinner 
 
 with, in London, 98. 
 " Spread-Eagleism," 244. 
 Staffordshire, introduction of 
 
 tramways in, 268. 
 StaflFordshire, the, 74. 
 Stettin, visit to, 251. 
 Stevens, Faran, 106. 
 Stoddard, Captain, meeting 
 
 with, 87. 
 Street-railways, first English, 
 
 259. 
 Strelna, meeting with Grand 
 
 Duke Constantine at, 251. 
 Suez, visit to, and land trip to 
 
 Cairo, 209. 
 Sumner, Charles, speaks in 
 
 Boston on the war, 277. 
 Swans, black, 168. 
 Sydney, visit to, 143. 
 
 Tai-ping rebellion, 196. 
 
 Tasmania, visit to, 148; gold- 
 fever in, 130, 141. 
 
 Taylor, Moses, 166. 
 
 Taylor, President, introduced 
 to, 80. 
 
 Tea, Chinese and Russian, 191, 
 334. 
 
 Temperance, 47, 99. 
 
 Ten-pins, skill in, 79; in Aus- 
 tralia, 135. 
 
 The Hague, visit to, 251. 
 
 Ticonderoga, visit to, 88. 
 
 Tilden, Samuel J., and Union 
 Pacific Eailway, 288. 
 
 Tilly, Governor, of New Bruns- 
 wick, 113. 
 
 Tombs, imprisonment in the, 
 324. 
 
 Train, Ellen, 5. 
 
 Train, Col. Enoch, 52, 126, 223; 
 failure of, 173. 
 
 Train, Josephine, 3. 
 
 Train, Louisa, 9. 
 
 Train, Louise, 5. 
 
 Train, Oliver, 1, 7. 
 
 Train Villa, Newport, 314. 
 
 Tramways. See Street-rail- 
 ways. 
 
 Trescot, Commodore, meeting 
 with, 88. 
 
 Tucker, Beverley, consul in 
 Liverpool, 123. 
 
 Tweed Ring, exposure of the, 
 32. 
 
 Unicorn, the wreck of, 118. 
 Union Pacific Railway, 269, 
 
 283. 
 Upas-tree, fable of the, 189. 
 Upton, George B., 223. 
 
 Verne, Jules, Le Tour du 
 Monde en Quatre-vingts 
 Jours, 301, 331. 
 
 Victoria, Queen, 92, 104. 
 
 Vienna, visit to, 235. 
 
 Wade, Benjamin, 244. 
 Wales, visit to, 101. 
 
 347 
 
MY LIFE IN MANY STATES 
 
 Waltham, Mass., homestead at, 
 1, 19, 21. 
 
 Ward, Frederick Townseud, in 
 China, 196. 
 
 Ward, Alfredo, 109. 
 
 Ward, Gen. C. L., 243. 
 
 Ward, Sallie, marriage to Bige- 
 low Lawrence, 114. 
 
 Washington, yacation trip to, 79. 
 
 Washington Irving, the, 58, 72, 
 144. 
 
 Webster, Daniel, letter from, 80, 
 87, 92; retained in the Frank- 
 lin case, 63; Secretary of 
 State, 80. 
 
 Wellington, Duke of, 100. 
 West Point, visit to, 82. 
 Whistler, Major, 255. 
 Willis, N. P., John Brougham 
 
 on, 124. 
 Wilson, Henry T., 148. 
 Winslow, Henry A., 10. 
 Woodhull, Victoria C, arrest 
 
 of, 323. 
 World tours, 331. 
 
 Young America Abroad, 93, 
 
 103, 257. 
 Young America in Wall Street, 
 
 125. 
 
 (2) 
 
 THE END 
 
 348 
 
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 of Victor Hugo. With a Critical Introduction by Andrew Lang; 
 Four Coloured Plates by Louis Edouard Fournier, Photogravure 
 Frontispiece, and numerous small Portraits. 
 
 THE TWO YOUNG BRIDES. Translated from the 
 French of Honorb de Balzac. Wiib a Critical Introduction by Henry 
 James ; Three Coloured Plates by Eugene Paul Avkil, Photogravure 
 Frontispiece, and numerous small Portraits. 
 
 THE NABOB. Translated from the French of Alphonse 
 Daudet. With a Critical Introduction by Prof. Trent ; Three Coloured 
 PUtes by Louis Edouard Fournier, Photogravure Frontispiece, and 
 numerous small Portraits. 
 
 RENEE MAUPERIN. Translated from the French of 
 
 Jules and Edmond de Goncourt. With a Critical Introduction by 
 James Fitzmau rice- Kelly ; Three Coloured Plates by Michael, 
 Photogravure Frontispiece, and numerous small Portraits. 
 
 PIERRE AND JEAN. Translated from the French of 
 Guy de Maupassant. With a Critical Introduction by the Earl op 
 Crewe; Three Coloured Plates by Henry Delaspre, Photogravure 
 Frontispiece, and numerous small Portraits. 
 
 THE WORKS OF TOLSTOY. 
 
 Translated from the Russian Original by 
 
 CONSTANCE GARNETT. 
 
 A Library Edition, Demy 8vo, price ^s. td. per Volume. 
 
 I-II. ANNA KARENIN. In Two Volumes; with 
 Photogravure Frontispiece, 
 
 III, IVAN ILYITCH, And other Stories. 
 
26 MR. HEINEMANN'S LIST. 
 
 Ipopular 63, IRovels. 
 
 BENEFITS FORGOT. By Wolcott Balestier. 
 
 A CHAMPION IN THE SEVENTIES. By Edith A. 
 Bafnett. 
 
 THE GLOWWORM. By May Bateman. 
 
 A DAUGHTER OF THIS WORLD. By F. Batter- 
 shall, 
 
 SCARLET AND HYSSOP. By E. F. Benson. 
 
 THE LUCK OF THE VAILS. By E. F. Benson. 
 
 MAMMON & CO. By E. F. Benson, Author of "Dodo." 
 
 THE PRINCESS SOPHIA. By E. F. Benson. 
 
 GILLETTE'S MARRIAGE. By Mamie Bowles. 
 
 THE AMAZING LADY. By M. Bowles. 
 
 THE BROOM OF THE WAR-GOD. By H. N. Brails- 
 ford. 
 
 A SUPERFLUOUS WOMAN. By Emma Brooke. 
 
 TRANSITION. By the Author of " A Superfluous Woman." 
 
 LIFE THE ACCUSER. By the Author of «'A Superfluous 
 Woman," 
 
 THE ETERNAL CITY. By Hall Caine. 
 
 THE CHRISTIAN, By Hall Caine. 
 
 THE MANXMAN. By Hall Caine. 
 
 THE BONDMAN. A New Saga. By Hall Caine. 
 
 THE SCAPEGOAT. By Hall Caine. 
 
 THE LAKE OF WINE. By Bernard Capes. 
 
 COTTAGE FOLK. By Mrs. Comyns Carr. 
 
 JASPAR TRISTRAM. By A. W. Clarke. 
 
 THE INHERITORS. By Joseph Conrad and Ford M. 
 
 THE NIGGER OF THE " NARCISSUS." By Joseph 
 
 CONKAD, 
 
 LAST STUDIES. By Hubert Crackanthorpe. With an 
 
 Introduction by Mr, Henry James, and a Portrait, 
 SENTIMENTAL STUDIES. By Hubert Crackanthorpe. 
 ACTIVE SERVICE. By Stephen Crane. 
 THE THIRD VIOLET. By Stephen Crane. 
 THE OPEN BOAT. By Stephen Crane. 
 PICTURES OF WAR. (The Red Badge of Courage, The 
 
 Little Regiment, &c.) By Stephen Crane, 
 BOWERY TALES (MAGGIE AND GEORGE'S 
 
 MOTHER), By Stephen Crane, 
 THE CHILD OF PLEASURE. By Gabriele D'Annunzio. 
 THE VICTIM. By Gabriele D'Annunzio. 
 
MR. HEINEMANN'S LIST. 27 
 
 jfiction— popular 6s. IRovels. 
 
 THE TRIUMPH OF DEATH. By GabrieleD'Annunzio 
 THE VIRGINS OF THE ROCKS. By Gabrieli. 
 
 D'Annunzio. 
 THE FLAME OF LIFE. By Gabriele D'Annunzio. 
 THE LION AND THE UNICORN AND OTHER 
 
 STORIES. By Richard Hakding Davis. Illustrated. 
 
 SOLDIERS OF FORTUNE. By Richard Harding 
 
 Davis. 
 
 JOSEPH KHASSAN: HALF-CASTE. By A. J. Dawson. 
 AFRICAN NIGHTS' ENTERTAINMENT. By A. J. 
 
 Dawsom. 
 THE STORY OF RONALD KESTREL. By A. J. 
 
 Dawson. 
 HEARTS IMPORTUNATE. By Evelyn Dickinson. 
 THE IMAGE BREAKERS. By Gertrude Dix. 
 
 THE STORY OF A MODERN WOMAN. By Ella 
 
 Hepworth Dixon. 
 LOVE AND HIS MASK. By Menie Muriel Dowie. 
 SPINDLE AND PLOUGH. By Mrs. Henry Dudeney. 
 FOLLY CORNER. By Mrs. Henry Dudeney. 
 
 THE MATERNITY OF HARRIOTT WICKEN. By 
 
 Mrs. Henry Dudeney. 
 
 JEM CARRUTHERS. By the Earl of Ellesmere (Charles 
 
 Granville). 
 
 CHINATOWN STORIES. By Chester Bailey Fernald. 
 
 GLORIA MUNDI. By Harold Frederic. 
 
 ILLUMINATION. By Harold Frederic. 
 
 THE MARKET PLACE. By Harold Frederic. 
 
 BY BREAD ALONE. By L K. Friedman. 
 
 THE EAGLE'S HEART. By Hamlin Garland 
 
 PETERSBURG TALES. By Olive Garnett. 
 
 SAWDUST. By Dorothea Gerard. 
 
 THE COURTESY DAME. By R. Murray Gilchrist. 
 
 THE VOICE OF THE PEOPLE. By Ellen Glasgow. 
 
 PHASES OF AN INFERIOR PLANET. By Ellen 
 
 Glasgow. 
 THE BETH BOOK. By Sarah Grand. 
 THE HEAVENLY TWINS. By Sarah Grand, 
 IDEALA. By Sarah Grand. 
 OUR MANIFOLD NATURE. By Sarah Grand. With 
 
 a Portrait of the Author. 
 
 THIRTEEN STORIES. By R. B. Cunninghame Graham. 
 
 THE WHITE TERROR : a Romance of the French Revo- 
 lution and After. By Felix Gras. 
 
 THE TERROR; a Romance of the French Revolution. 
 By FiLix Gkas. 
 
28 MR. HEINEMANN'S LIST. 
 
 JFfctfon.— popular 6s. "IFlovels. 
 
 FOUR-LEAVED CLOVER. By Maxwell Gray. 
 
 THE WORLD'S MERCY, AND OTHER TALES. By 
 
 Maxwell Gray. 
 THE HOUSE OF HIDDEN TREASURE. By Max- 
 
 WELL ^tRAY 
 
 THE LAST SENTENCE. By Maxwell Gray. 
 SWEETHEARTS AND FRIENDS. By Maxwell Gray 
 THE FREEDOM OF HENRY MEREDYTH. By M. 
 
 Hamilton. 
 McLEOD OF THE CAMERONS. By M. Hamilton. 
 A SELF-DENYING ORDINANCE. By M. Hamilton. 
 THE HIDDEN MODEL. By Frances Harrod. 
 THE SLAVE. By Robert Hichens. 
 THE LONDONERS: An Absurdity. By Robert Hichens. 
 FLAMES. By Robert Hichens. 
 THE FOLLY OF EUSTACE. By Robert Hichens. 
 AN IMAGINATIVE MAN. By Robert Hichens. 
 THE VALLEY OF THE GREAT SHADOW. By 
 
 Annie E. Holdswoeth. 
 THE GODS ARRIVE. By Annie E. Holdsworth. 
 THE YEARS THAT THE LOCUST HATH EATEN. 
 
 By Annie E. Holdsworth. 
 THE TWO MAGICS. By Henry James. 
 WHAT MAISIE KNEW. By Henry Tames. 
 THE OTHER HOUSE. By Henry Tames. 
 THE SPOILS OF POYNTON. By Henry James. 
 EMBARRASSMENTS. By Henry James. 
 TERMINATIONS. By Henry James. 
 THE AWKWARD AGE. By Henry James. 
 ON THE EDGE OF THE EMPIRE. By Edgar Jepson 
 
 and Captain D. Beames. 
 HERBERT VANLENNERT. By C. F. Keary. 
 FROM A SWEDISH HOMESTEAD. By Selma Lager- 
 
 lof. Translated by Jessie Be6chner. 
 
 THE FALL OF LORD PADDOCKSLEA. By Lionel 
 
 Langton. 
 IN HASTE AND AT LEISURE. By Mrs. Lynn Linton, 
 
 Author of '* Joshua Davidson," &c. 
 AT THE GATE OF SAMARIA. By W. J. Locke. 
 SOME WOMEN I HAVE KNOWN. By Maartex 
 
 Maartens. 
 
 IF I WERE KING. By Justin H. McCarthy. 
 
 RELICS. Fragments of a Life. By Frances Macnab. 
 
 A DAUGHTER OF THE VELDT. By Basil Marnan. 
 
 THE ASSASSINS. By Nevill M. Meakin. 
 
 A PROPHET OF THE REAL. By Esther Miller. 
 
 LIFE AT TWENTY. By Charles Russell Mokse. 
 
 THE DRONES MUST DIE. By Max Nordau. 
 
MR. HEINEMANN'S LIST. - - 29 
 
 3fictfon — ftopulat 6s. IRovels. 
 
 THE MALADY OF THE CENTURY. By Max Nokdau. 
 
 A COMEDY OF SENTIMENT. By Max Nordau. 
 
 MARIETTA'S MARRIAGE. By W. E. Norris. 
 
 THE DANCER IN YELLOW. By W. E. Norris. 
 
 A VICTIM OF GOOD LUCK. By W. E. Norris, 
 
 THE COUNTESS RADNA. By W. E. Norris. 
 
 THE WIDOWER. By W. E. Norris. 
 
 THE LION'S BROOD. By Duffield Osborne. 
 
 THE QUEEN VERSUS BILLY, AND OTHER 
 
 STORIES. By Llovd Osbourne. 
 RED ROCK. By Thomas Nelson Page. Illustrated. 
 THE RIGHT OF WAY. By Gilbert Parker. 
 THE LANE THAT HAD NO TURNING. By Gilbert 
 
 Parker. 
 EZEKIEL'S SIN. By J. H. Pearce. 
 A PASTORAL PLAYED OUT. By M. L. Pendered. 
 
 AS IN A LOOKING GLASS. By F. C. Philjps. With 
 Illustrations by Du Maurier. 
 
 THE SCOURGE-STICK. By Mrs. Campbell Praed. 
 
 FOREST FOLK. By James Prior. 
 
 WITHOUT SIN. By Martin J. Pritchard. 
 
 VOYSEY. By Richard O. Prowse. 
 
 KING CIRCUMSTANCE. By Edwin PaoH. 
 
 THE MAN OF STRAW. By Edwin Pugh. 
 
 TONY DRUM. A Cockney Boy. By Edwin Pugh. With 
 Ten fuU-paee Illustrations by the Beggarstaff Brothers. 
 
 CHUN-TI-KUNG. By Claude Rees. 
 
 BELOW THE SALT. By Elizabeth Robins (C. E. Rai- 
 mond). 
 
 THE OPEN QUESTION. By Elizabeth Robins. 
 
 CHIMERA, By F. Mabel Robinson. 
 
 THE CONFOUNDING OF CAMELIA. By Anne 
 
 Douglas Sedgwick. 
 THE LAND OF COCKAYNE. By Matilde Serao. 
 THE BALLET DANCER.AND ON GUARD. ByMatildb 
 
 THE FAILURE OF SIBYL FLETCHER. ByADELiNB 
 
 Sergeant. 
 OUT OF DUE SEASON. By Adeline Sergeant. 
 THE LADY OF DREAMS. By Una L. Silberrad. 
 
30 MR. HEINEMANN'S LIST. 
 
 Miction —popular 6s. IFlovels, 
 
 THE RAPIN. By H. de Vere Stacpoole. 
 
 THE HOSTS OF THE LORD. By Flora Annie 
 
 voices' IN THE NIGHT. By Flora Annie Steel. 
 ON THE FACE OF THE WATERS. By Flora Annie 
 
 THE POTTER'S THUMB. By Flora Annie Steel. 
 FROM THE FIVE RIVERS. By Flora Annie Steel. 
 IN THE PERMANENT WAY. By Flora Annie Steel. 
 RED ROWANS. By Flora Annie Steel. 
 THE FLOWER OF FORGIVENESS. By Flora Annie 
 
 MISS STUART'S LEGACY. By Flora Annie Steel. 
 THE MINISTER OF STATE. By J. A. Steuart. 
 ST. IVES. By Robert Louis Stevenson. 
 THE EBB-TIDE. By Robert Louis Stevenson and Lloyd 
 
 OSBOURNE 
 
 MYSTERY OF THE SEA. By Bram Stoker. 
 THE ELEVENTH COMMANDMENT. By Halhwell 
 
 SUTCUFFE. 
 
 NUDE SOULS. By Benjamin Swift. 
 
 A COURT INTRIGUE. By Basil Thomson. 
 
 VIA LUCIS. By Kassandra Vivaria. 
 
 JACK RAYMOND. By E. L. Voynich. 
 
 THE GADFLY. By E. L. Voynich. 
 
 THE REBEL. By H. B. Marriott Watson. 
 
 THE WAR OF THE WORLDS. By H. G. Wells. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF DOCTOR MOREAU. By H.G.Wells. 
 
 CORRUPTION. Bv Percy White. 
 
 MR. BAILEY-MARTIN. By Percy White. With Portrait, 
 
 TANGLED TRINITIES. By Daniel Woodroffe. 
 
 SONS OF THE SWORD. A Romance of the Peninsular 
 
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 THE STORY OF EDEN. By Dolf Wyllarde. 
 THE MANTLE OF ELIJAH. By I. Zangwill. 
 THEY THAT WALK IN DARKNESS. By I. Zangwill. 
 THE MASTER. By I. Zangwill. With Portrait. 
 CHILDREN OF THE GHETTO. By I. Zangwill. 
 DREAMERS OF THE GHETTO. By I. Zangwill. 
 THE KING OF SCHNORRERS, GROTESQUES AND 
 
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 CLEO THE MAGNIFICENT. By Z. Z 
 THE WORLD AND A MAN. By Z. Z. 
 
MR. HEINEMANN'S LIST. 31 
 
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 THE ATTACK ON THE MILL. By ^mile Zola. With 
 
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 FICTION. 
 
 THE GIRL AT THE HALFWAY HOUSE. By E. 
 
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 A DRONE AND A DREAMER. By Nelson Lloyd. 
 IN OLE VIRGINIA. By Thomas Nelson Page. 
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 THE GREAT GOD SUCCESS. By John Graham. 
 
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 MAMMON. A Novel. By Mrs. Alexander. 
 
 LOS CERRITOS. By Gebtrude Franklin Atherton. 
 
 THE AVERAGE WOMAN. By Wolcott Balestier. 
 
 With an Introduction by Henry James. 
 PERCHANCE TO DREAM, and other Stories. By Mar 
 
 CARET S. Briscoe. 
 CAPT'N DAVY'S HONEYMOON, The Bhnd Mother, 
 
 and The Last Contession. By Hall Caine. 
 A MARKED MAN. By Ada Cambridge. 
 A LITTLE MINX. By Ada Cambridge^ 
 A CONSPIRACY OF SILENCE. By G. Colmore. 
 A DAUGHTER OF MUSIC. By G. Colmore. 
 BLESSED ARE THE POOR. By Franqois Copp^e. 
 
 With an Introduction by T. P. O'Connor. 
 WRECKAGE, and other Stories. By Hubert Crackan- 
 
 thorpe. ^^ ^ 
 
 THE KING'S JACKAL. By Richard Harding Davis. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by Charles Dana Gibson. 
 
32 MR. HEtNBMANN'S LIST. 
 
 jflctfon.-ipopulat 3s. 65. IRovels, 
 
 IN SUMMER ISLES. By Burton Dibbs. 
 
 THE OUTSPAN. Tales of South Africa. By J. Percy 
 
 FitzPatrick, 
 THE COPPERHEAD ; and other Stories of the North 
 
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 THE RETURN OF THE O'MAHONY. By Harold 
 
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 IN THE VALLEY. By Harold Frederic. With Illus- 
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 THE ORLOFF COUPLE, AND MALVA. By Alexei 
 Maximovitch Peshkoff, Maxim Gorki. Authorised Translation from 
 i'ai Russian bv Emily Jakowlbff and Dora B. Montbfiore. With a 
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 MRa. JOHN FOSTER, By Charles Granville. 
 
 MADiSMOISELLE MISS, and other Stories. By Henrv 
 
 Harland. 
 APPASSION ATA : A Musician's Story. By Elsa D'Esterre 
 
 Keeling. 
 A MARRIAGE IN CHINA. By Mrs. Archibald Little. 
 
 WRECKERS AND METHODISTS. Cornish Stories. By 
 H. D. LoWRY. 
 
 A QUESTION OF TASTE. By Maarten Maartens. 
 H)SR OWN FOLK. (En Famille.) By Hector Malot, 
 
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 AROMANCE.OF THE CAPE FRONTIER. By Bertram 
 
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 ELI'S DAUGHTER. By J. H. Pearce. 
 
 INCONSEQUENT LIVES. A Village Chr onicle. ByJ. H. 
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 THE MASTER OF THE MAGICIANS. By Elizabeth 
 
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 ACCORDING TO ST. JOHN. By Am«lie RiVES. 
 THE STORY OF A PENITENT SOUL. Being the 
 
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 UNCLE PIPER OF PIPER'S HILL. By Tasma. 
 
 HER LADYSHIP'S ELEPHANT. By David Dwight 
 
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 HIS LORDSHIP'S LEOPARD. By David Dwight Wells. 
 AVENGED ON SOCIETY. By H. F. Wood. 
 
 STORIES FOR NINON. By Emile Zola. With a Portrait 
 
 by Will Rothenstein. 
 THE ATTACK ON THE MILL, and other Sketches 
 
 of War. By Emile Zola, With an Essay on the short stories of M. 
 
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MR. HEINBMANN'S LIST. 33 
 
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34 MR. HEINEMANN'S LIST. 
 
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 Battershall . 
 
 26 
 
 Beames. . . 
 
 28 
 
 Behrs . . . 
 
 7 
 
 Bell .... 
 
 II 
 
 Bellamy . , 
 
 36 
 
 Bendall . . 
 
 so 
 
 Benedetti . . 
 
 10 
 
 Benham . . 
 
 36 
 
 Benson (A, C. ) 
 
 IS 
 
 Benson (E.F.) 
 
 26 
 
 Benson (M.) . 
 
 14 
 
 Beothy . . . 
 
 21 
 
 Berger . . . 
 
 21 
 
 Beringer . . 
 
 34 
 
 Bigelow(P.) . 
 
 10 
 
 Bigelow JMrs.) 
 
 35 
 
 Bismarck . . 
 
 S 
 
 Bjornson . 33, JS 
 
 Blanchan . . 
 
 17 
 
 Bleloch . . 
 
 II 
 
 Blunt . . . 
 
 20 
 
 Bomigogne . 
 
 S 
 
 Bowen ; . . 
 
 22 
 
 Bowles . . . 
 
 26 
 
 Boyesen . . 
 
 15 
 
 Brailsford . . 
 
 26 
 
 Brandes . 15 
 
 21 
 
 Branner . . 
 
 9 
 
 Br&d . . . 
 
 23 
 
 Briscoe . . . 
 
 31 
 
 Brooke . . . 
 
 26 
 
 Brown . . . 
 
 10 
 
 Brown & Grifhths 22 
 Buchanan 18, 36 
 Bimyan .' . 3 
 Burgess . 
 BurneljE, . 
 Buttay, , 
 Byron . . 
 
 16 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Cahan ... 34 
 Caine ( Hall) 10, 26 
 
 31. 35 
 Caine (R.) . . 20 
 Cambridge 31, 36 
 Capes ... 26 
 Carr. ... 26 
 Chambers . . 18 
 Chester . . 24 
 Chevrillon. . 13 
 Clarke (A. W.) 26 
 Clarke (K.E.) 35 
 Cobbold . , 12 
 Coleridge . 5, 15 
 Colmore , 31, 34 
 Colomb . , 16 
 Colquhoun , 11 
 Conipayr^ . , 22 
 Compton . . 34 
 Conrad. . , 26 
 Cook , , , 12 
 Cooper, , , 36 
 Coppfe . . 31 
 Couperus . . 33 
 Crackanlhorpe 
 
 26, 31 
 Crackanthorpe 
 
 (Mrs.) . . y. 
 Crane 20, 26, 31, 
 
 34. 3S. 36 
 Dallmeyer. . 23 
 D'Annunzio 
 
 18,26, 27 
 D'Argenson . 4 
 Daudet . . 25 
 Davidson . . 22 
 Davis 13, 27,31.3s 
 Dawson (C. A. ) 20 
 Dawson(A. J. )27,36 
 De Bemis . , 4 
 De Bourdeille 4 
 De Broglie . 11 
 Decle ... 12 
 De Goncourt 6, 25 
 De Joinville . 7 
 De Lespinasse 4 
 De Leval . . 23 
 De Ligne . . 4 
 De Loup . . 17 
 De Motteville 4 
 De Quincey 5, 15 
 De Stendhal . 24 
 Dibbs ... 32 
 Dickinson . , 27 
 Dix .... 27 
 Dixon ... 27 
 Djurklou . . 24 
 Donne ... S 
 Dooley . , , 17 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Dowden ■ . 21 
 Dowie , . 27 
 Dowson . . 36 
 Dreiser . . 31 
 Dubois ... 13 
 Dudeney . 27, 34 
 Dumas , . 25 
 Du Toit . . 13 
 Edgren , . 23 
 Edwards , . 18 
 Eeden ... 24 
 EUesmere . . 27 
 Ellwanger . . 17 
 Evans . . 3, 23 
 Fernald . . 27 
 Ferruggia . . 33 
 Fersen . . 4 
 Feuillet . . 25 
 Fitch ... 22 
 Fitzmaurice- 
 
 Kelly . 9, 21 
 FitzPatrick 11, 32 
 Flandrau . . 31 
 Fleming . . 36 
 Flammarion . 23 
 Flaubert . . 25 
 Forbes (A.) . 16 
 Forbes (H.O.) 9 
 Fothergill . . 36 
 Franzos . . 33 
 Frederic . 27, 32 
 Fried . . 7 
 Friedman . . 27 
 Furtwangler . 3 
 Gardiner . . 17 
 Garland . 27, 31 
 ■ Gai^mo ... 22 
 Gainett (O.) . 27 
 Garnett (R.) 
 
 14,21,23 
 Gerard ... 27 
 Gaulot ... 8 
 Gilchrist . . 27 
 Giles . . . 2r 
 Glasgow . . 27 
 Golm ... 33 
 Gontcharoff . 33 
 Gore ... 22 
 Gorki ... 32 
 Gosse s> 7' ^5- '^' 
 20,21,23, 31 
 Gounod . . 6 
 Graham (C. ) 13, 27 
 Graham (J. ) . 31 
 Grand . . 27, 36 
 Granville . . 32 
 Gras. . . 27, 36 
 Gray (Maxwell) 
 
 so, 28 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 22 
 
 • 23 
 
 • 23 
 
 • 3 
 . 16 
 
 • 34 
 
 Griffiths 
 Groos . 
 Guerber 
 Gusnian 
 Guyau . 
 Gyp. . 
 Hafiz . 
 Hall. . 
 Hamilton 
 Hammar 
 Harlan d 
 Harrod 
 Hassall 
 Hauptmann 
 Heaton 
 Heijermans 
 Heine . 
 Helm . 
 Helmolt 
 Henley . 
 Hertwig 
 Heussey 
 Hichens 
 Hill . . 
 Hinde . 
 Hinsdale 
 Hirsch . 
 Hogarth 
 Holdicli 
 
 Holdsworth 28, 34 
 Hope . 
 Hough . 
 Howard 
 Howells 
 Huart . 
 Hughes 
 Hugo . 
 , Hume . 
 Hungerford 
 Hyne . 
 Ibsen . 
 IngersoU 
 Irving (H. 
 Irving (Sir 
 Jacobsen 
 Jaeger . 
 James (Henry) 
 
 12, 28 
 James (Lionel) 
 
 28, 34 
 
 • 13 
 
 • 32 
 . 28 
 
 • 9 
 . 18 
 
 • 3 
 . 18 
 7, 16 
 . IS 
 
 • 9 
 . 18 
 . 22 
 . 6 
 
 28, 34 
 . 6 
 
 • 13 
 . 22 
 . 16 
 . 8 
 
 9 
 
 S. 
 
 B.) 
 H.) 
 
 Jepson . . 
 Keary(E. M.) 
 Keary (C. F.) 
 Keeling 
 Keltic . 
 Kennedy 
 Kimball 
 Kipling 
 Kirk . 
 
 13 
 
 28 
 
 32 
 
 8 
 
 36 
 
 13 
 
5n&eS of ^WtbOVS— {'continued). 
 
 Knight. . 
 
 PAGE 
 . 18 
 
 Mitford 
 
 PAGE 
 • 32 
 
 Kraszewski 
 
 
 33 
 
 Mockler- 
 
 
 
 Kroeker . 
 
 
 20 
 
 Ferryman 
 
 10 
 
 Kropotkin 
 
 
 9 
 
 Monk . 
 
 , 
 
 34 
 
 Lagerlof . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Monkhouse . 
 
 2 
 
 Landor 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 Moore . 
 
 
 36 
 
 Langton . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Mordaunt 
 
 , 
 
 3S 
 
 Laugbton . 
 
 
 5 
 
 Morse . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Laut . . 
 
 
 31 
 
 MuUer(F.C.G. 
 
 )" 
 
 Lawson 
 
 
 3 
 
 MuUer (Iwan) 
 
 II 
 
 Le Caron . 
 
 
 7 
 
 MUntz . 
 
 
 2 
 
 Leland . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 Murray (D 
 
 C.) 
 
 16 
 
 Le Querdec 
 
 
 7 
 
 Murray (G. ) 19 
 
 .21 
 
 Leroy-Beaulieu 
 
 
 Napoleon 
 
 , 
 
 S 
 
 
 10 
 
 II 
 
 Nicholson 
 
 . , 
 
 [, 2 
 
 Lewis . . 
 
 , 
 
 II 
 
 Nordau 16, 28 
 
 29 
 
 Lie . . . 
 
 , 
 
 33 
 
 Norman 
 
 
 II 
 
 Linton . . 
 
 , 
 
 28 
 
 Norris 
 
 
 29 
 
 Lloyd . . 
 
 . 
 
 31 
 
 Nugent 
 
 
 s 
 
 Little (A.) 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 Oelsner 
 
 
 21 
 
 Little (Mrs. 
 
 A. 
 
 
 Oliphaut 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 Osborne 
 
 
 29 
 
 Locke . . 
 
 28 
 
 34 
 
 Osbourne 
 
 
 29 
 
 Lowe . . 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 Oswell . 
 
 
 s 
 
 Lowry . . 
 
 , 
 
 32 
 
 Ouida . 
 
 
 36 
 
 Lutzow (Gount] 
 
 21 
 
 Page . 
 
 • 29 
 
 .31 
 
 Lyncli . . 
 
 
 36 
 
 Paget . 
 
 
 s 
 
 Maartens . 
 
 z8 
 
 32 
 
 Palacio-Vald& 
 
 
 McCabe . 
 
 
 II 
 
 
 i^ 
 
 36 
 
 McCarthy 
 
 
 28 
 
 Palatine (Prin- 
 
 
 Macdonell 
 
 
 21 
 
 cess) . 
 
 
 4 
 
 McFall . . 
 
 
 13 
 
 Parker . 
 
 
 29 
 
 McHugh . 
 
 
 17 
 
 Partsch 
 
 
 8 
 
 Mackinder 
 
 
 8 
 
 Pasolini 
 
 
 6 
 
 Macnab . 
 
 
 23 
 
 Paterson 
 
 
 15 
 
 Madame Elisa- 
 
 
 Patmore 
 
 
 20 
 
 beth . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 Peake . 
 
 
 31 
 
 Maeterlinck 
 
 
 19 
 
 Pearce . 
 
 29 
 
 32 
 
 Mailing . 
 
 
 36 
 
 Peattie . 
 
 
 31 
 
 Malot . , 
 
 
 32 
 
 Pandered 
 
 
 29 
 
 Marey . . 
 
 
 23 
 
 Pennell . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Markham . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Perry . 
 
 
 7 
 
 Marnan . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Phelps . . 
 
 32 
 
 36 
 
 MarehaU.. 
 
 
 19 
 
 Philips . 
 
 
 29 
 
 Masson 
 
 
 8 
 
 Pinero . . 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 Maude . . 
 
 
 16 
 
 Pinloche 
 
 
 22 
 
 Maupassant 
 
 
 
 Praed . 
 
 
 29 
 
 24. 
 
 25, 
 
 33 
 
 Pressens^ 
 
 
 6 
 
 Maurice . 
 
 
 i6 
 
 Prior . . 
 
 
 29 
 
 Meakin . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Pritchard 
 
 
 29 
 
 Merriman . 
 
 
 18 
 
 Prowse 
 
 
 29 
 
 Merimfe . 
 
 
 24 
 
 PuBh . . 
 
 29 
 
 34 
 
 Michel . . 
 
 
 2 
 
 Puliga . 
 
 
 6 
 
 Mieville . 
 
 
 14 
 
 Rawnsley 
 
 
 14 
 
 Miller . . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Ray nor. . 
 
 
 18 
 
 PAGE 
 . 8 
 
 29 
 
 Reclus . , 
 Rees . . 
 Rembrandt 
 
 Renan . . 6, 16 
 
 Ricci ... 2 
 
 Riddell. . . 36 
 
 Rives ... 32 
 Roberts (Baron 
 
 von) ... 36 
 Roberts 
 
 (C. G. D.) 14 
 
 Robins ... 6 
 Robins (Eliza- 
 beth) . . 29,34 
 
 Robinson . . 29 
 
 Ross ... 21 
 
 Rostand . . 19 
 
 Russell (I. C.) 9 
 
 Rye ... 24 
 
 Saintsbury . 15 
 
 St. Simon . . 4 
 
 Salaman ( T. S. ) 23 
 Salaman (M. C.) 
 
 Sand , . 
 Sarcey , . 
 Schiller . 
 Schulz . . 
 Scidmore . 
 Scoble . . 
 Scudamore 
 
 18 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 20 
 
 13 
 14 
 II 
 16 
 
 Sedgwick . 29, 36 
 Seignobos . . 10 
 Serao . . 29, 33 
 Sergeant 29,32,36 
 Shaler ... 23 
 Silberrad . . 29 
 Somerset . . 14 
 Stacpoole . . 30 
 Steel . . 17, 30 
 Stephen . . 23 
 Steuart. . . 30 
 Stevenson 
 
 18, 30, 36 
 Stoker ... 30 
 Sutcliffe . . 30 
 Swift . 15, 30, 34 
 Symons . 15, 20 
 Taderaa . . 34 
 Tallentyre. . 18 
 Tasma . . 32, 36 
 Tennant . . 15 
 Thompson . 14 
 Thomson . . 14 
 Thomson (Basil) 30 
 
 36 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Thuiston 
 Tirebuck 
 Tolstoy 
 
 17, ig 25, 33 
 
 Towers. . . 24 
 
 Tree ... 19 
 
 Trent ... 21 
 
 Turgenev . . 35 
 
 Underhill . , 12 
 
 Upward . . 34 
 
 Valera ... 33 
 
 Vandam , . lo 
 
 Vazoff ... 33 
 
 V. B. ... 14 
 
 Verestchagin . 11 
 
 Verrall ... 21 
 
 Viller ... 36 
 
 Vincent . , 13 
 
 Vivaria. . . 30 
 
 Vivienne . . 13 
 
 Voynich , . 30 
 
 Vuillier • • 3 
 
 Wagner . . 16 
 Waliszewski 
 
 6, 8, 21 
 
 Walker. . . 7 
 
 Ward ... 32 
 
 Warner . , 12 
 
 Waters , . 17 
 
 Watson . . 30 
 
 Waugh . . 8 
 
 Weitemever . 10 
 Wells(D.'D.) 31,32 
 Wells (H.G.) 
 
 30,3s 
 West . . 22 
 Whibley , 7, 20 
 White . . 30, 36 
 White (A.) . 10 
 Whitman . , u 
 Wickhoff . . 3 
 Wilken . , ic 
 Wilkinson . , e 
 Williams(E.E.)i3 
 Williams (M.) 35 
 Wilson . . . j6 
 Wood ... 32 
 Woodroffe . 30 
 Woods , . 30 
 Wyckoff . . 12 
 Wyllarde . . 30 
 Wyndham . 11 
 Zangwill. . . 30 
 Zola. . , 31, 32 
 Z. Z. . . 30, 36 
 
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