ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New York State Colleges of Agriculture and Home Economics at Cornell University JAMES E. RICE MEMORIAL POULTRY LIBRARY Cornell University Library SF 487.P962 Profitable poultry keeping or i a "JV 'J' The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003181900 K from Tire Library of OfcOlney Brown Kent Profitable Poultry Keeping On a City Lot $297.00 a Year from Twenty-four Hens 3F Copyright 1914 by "c. B. ANDERSON Kansas City, Mo. INDEX Page Introduction 5 The Initial Experience 6 Raising Poultry the Ordinary Way 10 The First Year's Experience 10 Receipts and Expenses for First Year 13 The Second Year's Experience 14 Receipts and Expenses for Second Year 19 Fresh Air Colony Coop and Movable Scratching Pen 20 The Third Year 23 Trying Out the New Colony Coop 23 Improving the Chick Pens 23 Movable Chick Shelter and Runway 27 Receipts and Expenses for Third Year 31 The Fourth Year 31 A Clear Profit of $12 from Each Hen 31 Caring for the Fowls 34 Sprouted Oats 37 Caring for the Small Chicks ■ 38 More Profit in Matured Fowls 41 Fattening the Market Birds 42 Feeding Chicks for Maturity 43 Receipts and Expenses for Fourth Year 45 Helpful Hints for the Beginner 47 Keeping a Small Flock of Poultry 50 Location • 50 Housing 50 Fowls '. 51 Disinfectants — Insecticides 51 Medicines 53 Water, Grit and Charcoal 54 Food Supply 55 The Morning Meal 55 Green Food 56 Mash Food 56 The Evening Meal 57 Broody Hens 58 Eggs for Hatching 58 When the Chicks are Hatched 59 Market Fowls 60 Chicks for Maturity 62 INTRODUCTION. The author has no intention of posing as a porltry expert, nor is this little book intended as a treatise on the poultry industry. Its purpose is only to show what an ordinary person can do with a few fowls when simple rules, based on proven facts, are followed. We have not discovered any new system of poultry raising, but have applied a little common sense to old methods. The book does not deal in generalities. It relates, in direct language, our experience during five years of "back yard" poultry raising. We began the work with no practical knowledge whatever to help us in caring for the fowls. By reading innumerable books on the subject and putting the knowl- edge so gained into practical use and noting the results, we were able to separate false theories from facts and to profit thereby. By exercising perseverance, we suc- ceeded in making a clear profit from each hen, of more than twelve dollars a year. This should offer some inducement to the wage earner who has difficulty in making both ends meet, and to any man or woman willing to devote a few minutes each day to a pleasant occupation. By following the suggestions and information on the following pages, the usual mistakes made by the be- ginner can be avoided and success is possible from the very first. A flock of twenty-five or thirty fowls can be well cared for on an ordinary city lot, and without interfering with the occupation of the bread winner in any way, pro- viding some member of the family attends to them reg- ularly during the day. At an average profit of twelve dollars for each hen, a flock of thirty should enable the beginner to buy a home or to enjoy luxuries that would otherwise be out of the question. THE INITIAL EXPERIENCE. I contracted the poultry fever by reading alluring advertisements in poultry journals and magazines. These advertisements and the fact that I needed the money, finally brought the fever to an acute stage, and I became so enthusiastic over the large profits to be made, "as per advertisements," that my family could no longer resist the proposition, and we decided to embark in the poultry busi- ness at the earliest possible moment. We knew little or nothing about the care and treat- ment of poultry, except the information we had gained by reading books on the subject. These dealt with the matter only in a general way, and made the business seem so easy and success so certain that we did not think our lack of practical experience any serious handicap. As is generally the case with the beginner, we did not think it was necessary to start from the bottom and learn the many details of the work. We wanted to get rich quick- ly; so, naturally, we had to start on as large a scale as possible. Had we been able financially, we would prob- ably have bought a large number of adult fowls; but our circumstances would not permit this, so we concluded to get an incubator and a brooder, and to hatch three or four hundred chicks the first season and raise them to maturity. This, we figured, would give us a good foun- dation upon which to build our future success. For an outlay of eighteen dollars, we bought a first- class incubator and brooder, together with a "Book of In- structions," telling how to hatch 90 per cent of the eggs and how to successfully raise the chicks after they were hatched. The next step was to procure fertile eggs for the in- cubator. This question was settled by answering several advertisements in the daily papers, and choosing what appeared to be the most reasonable offer. The best prop- osition came from a lady living in the suburbs of the town, who agreed to give us one hundred fertile eggs for five dollars, the eggs produced by pure bred Buff Orping- 6 ton hens. To satisfy myself that the fowls were thor- oughbreds, I went out one evening to inspect her flock. I did not know much about the various breeds of poultry, so I had secured a copy of the "American Standard of Per- fection," and by comparing her fowls with the illustra- tions in the book, I judged the birds to be of good stock. The flock consisted of twelve or fourteen hens. The daily supply of eggs was limited to this amount, or less ; and as the lady had only a small stock on hand, it was necessary to wait a few days before the order could be filled. We waited, and in the course of a few days, paid her five dollars for one hundred supposedly good eggs. The eggs were brought home and carefully placed in the in- cubator, as per instructions in the book. They were turned and treated and tested as per instructions. But, alas, the lady must have sold us cold storage eggs. Only twenty-six chicks were hatched from the lot of one hun- dred. This put an awful damper on our enthusiasm, but we placed all the blame on the eggs and the lady, and de- termined to try again. Of course, we told the lady of our ill fortune, but that did not help matters ; she had the money, we had the eggs. The twenty-six chicks were placed in the brooder, kept at the right temperature, where they were fed and watered and looked after as per brooder manufacturer's suggestions, and we looked around for more eggs. This time we were the prey of a farmer, and paid four cents each for one hundred eggs. These eggs were turned and tested and worried about until they hatched forty-eight chicks. This was quite an improvement over the first trial, but we were not bursting with enthusiasm. We had learned by this time that newly hatched chicks are not always destined to live to a useful maturity. Of the twenty-six chicks hatched in our first trial, only six remained. The others had died — from what cause we did not know. We had "mothered" them to the best of our knowledge, and had followed the instructions of the brood- er manufacturer to the letter. The forty-eight chicks were placed in the brooder with the six older ones and attended to faithfully. In the meantime, we cleaned the incubator, studied poultry- books, and lay awake at night trying to figure the possible profits in our poultry venture. The brooder had been placed in the back yard and a small runway built from it, so that the chicks could have room in which to run and scratch during the day. With the exception of a certain percentage of deaths, the flock got along very nicely until the third week. About this time a severe rain storm came up one night and the brooder lamp was extinguished, in spite of all the precautions we had taken to prevent such an acci- dent. The chicks were chilled, as a result, and in a short time only eight of the latest hatched chicks remained. This left us a total of fourteen chicks from the two set- tings of two hundred eggs. Very discouraging, but we decided to try at least once again. The incubator was set the third time, with eight dozen eggs. This time we did not attempt to get eggs from thoroughbred fowls. We figured that, as it was harder to raise the chicks than to hatch them, we might as well experiment as cheaply as possible ; so we bought the eggs at the nearest grocery store and at the market price, first satisfying ourselves that the grocer bought his eggs from farmers and not from cold storage plants. This necessitated three more weeks of constant care and attention during the day, to say nothing of nights of broken sleep. As a sleep destroyer, an incubator full of eggs to be kept at the right temperature, can't be beaten. Many a night I have gone to bed with a clear conscience, to dream of mammoth flocks and mountains of eggs, to awaken in the small hours with the foreboding that something was wrong with the incubator. Then to crawl out of bed, grope my way to the basement, and find the thermometer off three or four degrees. There I had to wait half an hour or more and regulate the lamp to give the proper amount of heat. All this we had not foreseen, in our eagerness to hatch chicks by the hun- dred, and it became very, very tiresome. From the eight dozen store eggs, we eventually hatched forty-three chicks — black, white and yellow, of various breeds and cross-breeds; but this fact did not dis- turb us in the least; the only thing that worried us was, how to keep them alive after they were hatched, regard- less of breed or pedigree. When the last flock of chicks was ready for the brooder, we transferred what remained of the first and second lots to a coop with a large yard, and gave the small ones possession of the brooder; first taking the pre- caution to clean and disinfect it thoroughly. By exercis- ing the utmost vigilance, we succeeded in raising twenty of these chicks until they were old enough to leave the brooder and run with the. older birds in the large yard. It was too late in the season to set the incubator again even if we had wanted to, which we certainly did not, so we contented ourselves with the care of the fowls we had. In the course of the season we had graduated a total of thirty-four chicks from the brooder to the large yard. Before they were large enough for the table, ten more had died from some of the hundred and one ills to which poultry, and especially young chicks, are subject. This left us twenty-four fowls for the season's work. At sixty cents each, this would make a total of $14.40. Our expenditures, including $18 for the incubator and brooder, $5.00, $4.00 and $2.00 for eggs, and $5.00 for feed and oil, totals $34.00. By leaving the incubator and brooder, which could be used again, out of the reckoning, the ex- penditures were $16.00— a loss of $1.60, to say nothing of our work. Thus ended our dream of sudden wealth in the poul- try business. It is safe to say that we were about as badly discouraged a lot of poultry raisers as could be found in the length and breadth of the land. We decided to sell the incubator and brooder as soon as possible and to dispose of the fowls also before the winter set in and increased the cost of feeding. Our experience convinced us that it is well-nigh im- possible for a beginner to successfully raise poultry on a large scale. It requires knowledge — not book knowledge, but knowledge gained by years of practical experience, to raise poultry on a large scale and make it profitable. When the beginner attempts to raise fowls by the whole- sale, with the aid of machines, failure is invited. True, if there is no regard for expense and loss of time, success may be attained by this method ; but numberless eggs and many chicks will be sacrificed before success comes. It is much better to start with six or eight adult fowls and to learn how to feed and care for them properly. When this knowledge has been gained, through every-day exper- ience, the flock can be increased, not by employing ma- chines, but in the natural way, with every assurance of profitable returns for time and money invested. RAISING POULTRY THE ORDINARY WAY. The First Year's Experience. As the spring of the following year approached, our thoughts again turned to poultry. The disappointment resulting from our initial experience had not been for- gotten, but we could see more clearly where, if we had used a little common sense and given less attention to misleading literature, the results would have been dif- ferent. At this time we were not attacked by the "fever,'* nor did we see any "easy money;" we simply had a de- sire for fresh eggs and good, wholesome spring chicken. We fortunately possessed, or rather rented, a cottage with a fair sized back yard, about 50 by 60 feet, including a shed that, with a little repair, would do service as a poultry house. We bought a quantity of fence posts, poultry netting, roofing paper and other supplies, and in a short time, by working after business hours, we had, so we thought, a model poultry farm, lacking nothing but the poultry. The selection of the fowls was an important step and gave us some worry, because we were determined to have thoroughbred birds, but could not afford to pay fancy prices for them. Not being particular about any certain breed of fowl, so long as they were pure-bred, we 10 overcame this difficulty by following the advertisements in the papers, and succeeded in picking up a bargain from a party preparing to leave town. This bargain consisted of six hens and one cock, full-blooded, healthy looking Barred Rocks. The birds we brought home and turned loose in the yard. They were given the best of care, in fact, too much care for their own good. We fed them, watered them, and waited on them untiringly. The' results in one week were ten eggs — hardly enough to pay for their food. The second and third weeks showed an improvement in the egg yield ; we gathered fifteen eggs the second week, and nineteen the third week ; this was probably due to the feeding. During the first week we were in constant fear that the fowls were not getting enough to eat, and fed them early and often. After the novelty which attended the first week's experience had sub- sided, and the feeding became more systematic, the re- sults were proportionately better. The fourth week, three hens took a decided notion to set. We accommodated two of them, but the third we decided to break, as we did not have enough eggs to set her on. This made the total egg yield for the fourth week, ten eggs. The third broody hen was fenced off in a coop for eight days before she was broken, and two weeks had elapsed before she started to lay again. The following week, shortly after the two setting hens had hatched their chicks, three more of the hens became broody. We had saved every available egg for such an emergency, but had only twelve or fourteen which we considered fresh enough for this purpose. We then decided to make the most of the proposition, and bought settings for two of the hens. In buying these eggs, we remembered our first experience along this line, and were cautious to get eggs that were guaranteed both as to fertility and stock. This left us only one hen for egg laying, the fowl we had broken of setting; and we must give her credit for doing her duty. Her average was better than five eggs weekly, for a period covering several weeks. 11 We attached a leg band to this hen, so that we could distinguish her from the rest of the flock; and later on, when she became broody again, we gave her a setting of her own eggs. The excellent showing made by this hen convinced us that she was a much better egg pro- ducer than any other hen in the flock, or else had decided to work overtime to make up for past deficiency. In any case, we kept watchful eyes on our fowls after that, in order to pick the good layers from the indifferent ones; and, by so doing, we succeeded, in the course of several seasons, in breeding fowls that were far ahead of the ordi- nary in egg production. We gave each of the hens that were set twelve eggs apiece. From this total of 72 eggs, the hens hatched 67 chicks. This demonstrated the superiority of the hen, when compared to the incubator. Aside from the fact that a greater percentage of chicks were hatched, it must also be taken into consideration that all the care and at- tention that the incubator required was eliminated when the hens were used. No worrying about moisture and temperature ; no turning and cooling of eggs ; the hens attended to all that much better than we possibly could; and what is more, when the chicks were hatched, they were all perfect and full of vitality. No cripples or sickly ones, such as we found in all of our incubator hatches. Although we had splendid success in hatching the chicks, we cannot boast of our success in raising them. Upon taking an inventory of our stock in the fall of the year, we found we had but 41 of the young fowls left from the total of 67. This meant a difference of 26 chicks, that had been lost from various causes. Some had been trampled, when very small, by the adult fowls. Others died from disease, and quite a number were drowned in a sudden rain storm. The largest percentage simply turned up missing, and were probably carried off by cats or other animals. We will state here that the chicks, when hatched, were not turned loose, but were kept in a coop for several days, until quite strong. The mother hen and her brood were then given the liberty of the yard. 12 Our flock of six hens laid something like 540 eggs for the entire year, an average of about ten eggs per week. The largest percentage was, naturally, laid in the spring and summer seasons. With the approach of win- ter, the yield grew less with each succeeding week, and by the time winter had set in, we were obliged to buy eggs to keep the table supplied. This state of affairs was due, as we found out later, to two causes — lack of exer- cise and improper feeding. We had read many articles in poultry books, relating to feeding, and used the information to the best of our ability. The flock was given plenty of grain, green food and mashes, without increasing the egg yield to any extent. It was not until we had learned by experience and experiments, the food value of different grains and mixtures, the proportions to feed and when to feed, that we were able to increase the egg yield in the winter months. From the chicks that were hatched that season, we picked out ten of the best looking pullets in the lot, to be used for the next season's work. This picked flock included five that were hatched by our best laying hen. The rest of her brood were cockerels. The remaining spring fowls were used for our own table, or sold to neigh- bors at the market price. We also sold the flock of old birds, with the exception of two of the best laying hens. We intended to start the next season with a brand new flock, but thought it advisable to keep the two old hens for breeding purposes. We went over the receipts and expenses very care- fully at the end of the year, and found the following re- sults : EXPENSES RECEIPTS 1 cock, 6 hens $ 8.00 4 hens, 1 cock $ 4.00 Fence and poultry house 31 market fowls at 40c... 12.40 repairs 7.00 41 doz. eggs at 2Sc 10.25 2 settings of eggs 2.50 Value of 10 pullets 10.00 Feed for adult fowls 5.00 Value of 2 hens 1.50 Feed for chicks 2.50 $38.15 $25.00 25.00 Profits $13.15 13 Figuring nothing for time and labor involved, the season's work netted us $13.50. This would not be very- encouraging to some people, but it demonstrated to us that it was possible to raise poultry and supply our table with strictly fresh eggs and healthy spring chicken, with- out losing money ; and this fact satisfied us and repaid us for our time and labor. THE SECOND YEAR'S EXPERIENCE. A Few Improvements and Better Success. Cleanliness is the most important factor in poultry raising; this much we knew to be a fact. We resolved, therefore, to give the flock the advantages of clean, whole- some quarters, by regular and systematic cleaning; and started the new season by giving the poultry house and yard a thorough overhauling. We sprayed the inside of the coop with disinfectants, taking pains to give every crack and crevice a liberal share of the solution. The fowls were also treated, by dusting them with an insect powder prepared for the purpose. This was done to rid them of that troublesome parasite known as the "chicken louse." We had not looked after our fowls as well as we should in this respect, during the first season, and the result was that they were pretty well supplied with the insects. It required several applications of the powder to get rid of them, and we kept up the treatment regularly, to prevent a reappearance of the trouble. We put the finishing touches to our spring cleaning by investing a few cents in paint, and spent several hours painting the weather-stained poultry house and fence posts. This improved the looks of our poultry farm won- derfully, and was well worth the little trouble it gave us. In the meantime we had procured a male bird for our flock of twelve hens, at a cost of three dollars. Con- sidering the fact that we were not well posted on poultry, we were very fortunate in our deal ; for, in less than three months, we received several offers of five dollars for the bird. These offers only encouraged us to keep him. 14 We were trying to build up the qualities of our own stock, and if the fowl was worth five dollars to someone else, he certainly was worth as much to us. Several of our hens began to lay in February, and by the second week in March the whole flock was supply- ing us with eggs. They kept at it very industriously, averaging about eight eggs daily for several weeks. Along about the middle of April, half the flock had become broody, and each hen was given a dozen eggs to hatch. We figured that it was more profitable to accommodate them than to lose a week or more, trying to break the habit. This, of course, cut the egg yield in half; and when the balance of the flock began to set, we were again obliged to buy eggs for this use. It may seem strange to the reader that we were short of eggs to set our broody hens on, when the balance of the flock were laying almost every day. The reason of this was not exactly a lack of eggs. We could have had plenty of eggs on hand for this purpose, if we had saved them for several days ; but in this case they would not have been strictly fresh, and we did not think it good policy to set the hens on doubtful eggs. It was not until the following year, after we had found a way to preserve the eggs without affecting the fertility, that we had the courage to set our hens on eggs that were, often, two weeks old. When buying eggs for the broody hens, we took time to investigate the stock that produced them, and proved to our own satisfaction that they were at least as good, if not better than our own fowls. Our flock of twelve hens hatched 124 chicks out of a possible 144 eggs. This we considered a fairly good percentage, and we determined to bend every effort to keep them alive and well. We thought, at first, of sep- arating the chicks from the hens and raising them in a brooder; but decided this was too risky a proposition, and would also require more time and attention than we could spare. However, we could not afford to let twelve hens lose practically five weeks in raising their small broods IS of chicks, so we compromised the matter by giving six hens two broods each. This gave us the use of half the flock for laying purposes. It often happens that one hen will not mother a brood that is not her own. This is usually the case when the chicks are of a different color or of a different size than her own. We experienced no difficulty in this re- spect. The chicks were identical in color, and the differ- ence in the ages of any two broods mothered by one hen was not more than ten days. In caring for the young chicks, we recalled the ex- perience of the previous season, and decided not to give the chicks the liberty of the poultry yard. We con- structed six pens, six feet long, three feet wide and eighteen inches high, and covered the sides and top with one-inch poultry netting. To one end of the pens we attached small, rain-proof coops, the same width and heighth as the pens, and about two feet long, with the roof sloping away from the pen. A wood flooring was fitted in the coop, and this was covered with several inches of litter, making a warm, comfortable shelter at night and affording a refuge in rainy weather. The pens and coops were light and very easily moved about. By simply sliding them a few feet several times daily, the chicks could enjoy practically free range, and at the same time were well protected. We allowed the hens to mother the chicks for about five weeks ; by that time they were large enough to take care of themselves, and we were anxious to gather a full supply of eggs. The chick pens proved very satisfactory ; in fact, the chicks appeared to do so well that we decided to keep them in the pens until they were large enough for the table, and a number of the birds were also raised to ma- turity by this same method. The pens relieved us of con- siderable time and worry in looking after the safety of the little chicks. Stray cats and dogs could not injure them and the older fowls could not interfere with them in any way. It was not necessary to run out in the 16 yard every few minutes to see that the chicks were get- ting along nicely. The pens also simplified the feeding of the birds to a great extent. When they had the lib- erty of the yard, they had to contend with the adult fowls in order to get their portion of the food, with the result that many of them were severely injured, by being pecked and trampled on; and they often picked up food that was intended for the adults fowls only, thereby causing trou- ble in the form of indigestion and bowel disorders. When the chicks were about three months old, or large enough for the market, the total of 124 had shrunk to 104, a loss of 20 chicks. Three of the chicks died from accidental causes, partly due to our own neglect ; six died from exposure during a rain storm ; and eleven from white diarrhoea, a malady that causes the death of thousands of young chicks every year. We would probably have lost more of our chicks from this cause, if we had not found the proper remedy to prevent and cure this disease. In order to prepare for the next season's work, we went over the flocks of young fowls very carefully before disposing of them, and picked out sixteen of the best look- ing pullets we could find These we separated into two flocks and we gave each flock of eight a separate pen. We did this to prevent crowding, as we intended to raise the pullets to maturity, and did not think the pens would safely accommodate a larger number of growing birds. In proportion to the number of eggs that were hatched, we raised a much larger percentage of chicks the second year than we did the first year; and inasmuch as we were striving for better results, we were well pleased with our success. Our flock of twelve hens gave us a good supply of eggs all summer, averaging about five eggs daily. This average, however, held good for the summer months only ; during the fall and winter months the yield was very poor, sometimes only two or three eggs in a week. For the entire year, we gathered 1,320 eggs, or an average of about twenty-five a week. This was considerably better than the first year' ; record, and demonstrated that our 17 efforts to better the conditions of our fowls had not been in vain. One cause of the increase in the egg yield the second year was the method we used in raising the small chicks. It must be remembered that in the first year's work, each hen lost, practically, two months' time in hatching and rearing her brood of chicks. During the second year, by making one hen take care of two broods of chicks, six hens lost eight weeks and six hens only four weeks each. This gave us the use of six hens for laying purposes for one month which would otherwise have been lost. Al- though the egg yield was better for the second year, the increase was noticeable only during the spring and sum- mer months ; for the winter months the average was practically the same as the first year's yield, and this in spite of many experiments with various systems of so- called scientific feeding. We finally came to the conclusion that the egg yield did not depend upon the feeding alone, but that a great deal also depended upon the size of the flock and the system of housing. It was with this theory in mind that we set about devising ways and means by which we could keep our fowls under ideal conditions. We had read quite a number of articles in poultry journals, pertaining to small colony coops, in which the fowls were confined summer and winter, like so many delicate plants in a hot house ; but we did not put much faith in the broad statements made in regard to their effi- ciency. While it is true that we had, so far, had no experience with coops of this kind, we had, nevertheless, ample opportunity to investigate their merits, as several of the coops were used in our immediate neighborhood and the owners were not overly enthusiastic about them. In fact, very few coops were used more than one season, except for dog houses — for which purpose they were ad- mirably suited. In our short experience with poultry, we have found out several facts worth remembering, facts that cannot be disputed. To keep poultry in good condition, they must have fresh air and plenty &i it; and they must also 18 have plenty of room in the open air, in which to exercise. It is foolish and cruel to keep them penned up in prac- tically air-tight boxes. Nature has provided the birds with a warm covering of feathers. They can stand cold weather much better than an ordinary human. It is only necessary to protect them from rain and snow and to pro- vide a coop, free from drafts, where they can roost at night. While exercise in the open air is essential, it is not necessary to have unlimited range; a large yard would probably please the fowls, but it does not increase the egg production. The size of the yard must be governed by the size of the flock, and should be large enough to allow scratching room for the whole flock without crowding the birds. If the yard is made movable and can be de- tached from the roosting house, it is much better; it is then possible to give the flock fresh range every day, by simply moving the yard a few feet. We spent practically all our spare time the second winter building and experimenting with different styles of coops, and wasted considerable time and money before we found what seemed to us the ideal. We then decided to use this new style of poultry house the whole of the following season, in order to prove that our theory was not at fault. Our receipts and expenses for the second year weqe as follows : EXPENSES RECEIPTS 1 cock $3.00 12 hens $10.00 6 chick peris 18.00 88 market birds at 40c... 35.20 4 settings of eggs 5.00 102 doz. eggs at 25c 25.50 Food for adult fowls 12.00 Value of 16 pullets 16.00 Feed for chicks 6.00 Value of 1 cock 3.00 $44.00 $89.70 44.00 Profits $45.70 The expense account does not include the cost of experimenting or the cost of the new coop to be used in the third season's work. The other items are prac- tically correct, with the exception of the food cost for 19 the adult fowls. This would probably have been more if we had depended entirely upon grain food. We made use of all table scraps ; dried bread, meat and vegetable scraps, even potato peels were prepared in various ways, and greatly relished by the fowls. In the column of receipts, will be noted an item of $10 for twelve hens. The hens we had used during the second year's work were sold before the third season, not because they had outlived their usefulness, but be- cause we wished to start the third year's work with two flocks of fowls ; one flock to have the liberty of the large yard, the other to be penned up in the new colony house ; and we wanted both flocks to start with the same advan- tage in regard to age and number. By starting both flocks on the same footing and giving them the same quality and quantity of food, we could prove beyond any doubt, whether or not our colony house theory was right. Our second year's results in dollars and cents was very encouraging. The profits were almost four times greater than the first year's profits, although only twice the number of hens were used. This was due chiefly to the fact that we saved a larger percentage of chicks — thanks to the movable pens — and we had learned more about feeding for better results. Fresh Air Colony Coop and Movable Scratching Pen. Our experiments led us to believe that by providing the fowls with a small coop for roosting and a movable yard for exercising purposes, we could get the best pos- sible results from the birds and practice economy as well, in the way of building material. It was necessary to allow the fowls a certain amount of space, but there was no need of building a large coop to meet their require- ments. Having determined upon the number of birds to be used in the flock, we constructed the coop accordingly, allowing sufficient room for roosting and nesting purposes, with a little space to spare, to prevent crowding. We were particular to allow for plenty of ventilation, without 20 drafts, and offered no hindrance to the sunlight. We took into consideration the fact that the coop should be kept in a sanitary condition, and provided means by which it could be easily and thoroughly cleaned. In dimensions the coop was 6 feet long, 4 feet wide and iy 2 feet high at the ridge board. The ridge board ran the length of the coop and was located \y 2 feet from the front side of the coop. The roof sloped from both sides of the ridge board, so that the height from the ground to the eaves was 3 feet at the front and 2 l / 2 feet at the back of the coop. The roof at the rear side was hinged to the ridge board and formed a shutter that could be opened and adjusted to suit weather conditions. A light frame of wire netting was fitted under the roof to prevent the fowls escaping when it was open. The roosting board and droppings board were hinged to the inside of the rear section of the coop and about one foot from the floor line, so that the fowls had the use of all the floor space the coop afforded. A narrow section of the rear wall of the coop was hinged ; and when this shutter or door was let down, the opening cor- responded with the droppings board support, and the board itself could be taken out, cleaned and replaced with very little trouble. An opening one foot square was made at both ends of the coop, so that the scratching pen could be attached on either side. The openings were fitted with hinged doors and could be closed when necessary. The front of the coop was left entirely open, with the exception of a light frame work, to which a section of wire netting was fastened. This frame of netting could be removed by simply turning two thumb latches. This made thorough cleaning possible, because every portion of the interior could be reached. A curtain of muslin, large enough to cover the front of the coop, was fastened above the wire netting frame, and a strip of wood was attached to the lower edge, to serve as a roller. The curtain was used as a sunshade in summer, and was let down in winter after the fowls 21 had gone to roost. As long as the weather remained mild, the curtain was kept rolled up day and night. The scratching pen or yard was made of four sec- tions of netting covered frames which, when fastened together, formed an enclosure 6 feet square and 2 feet high. Two sides of the pen were built to a peak one foot higher and connected with a ridge board. Two more netting frames were used to form the roof; these frames hinged at the ridge board, and sloped down so that they rested upon the side sections of the yard. A piece of heavy duck cloth, sufficiently large to cover the top and two sides of the yard, was tacked to the ridge board, and a wood roller was fastened to each end. This cover could be rolled up, and fastened at any place on the side or the roof of the pen. In summer it provided shade on hot days and shelter in rainy weather; in winter, it kept out the snow and protected the fowls from the freezing winds. The two ends of the pen were provided with sliding doors, to be used when feeding the flock; and these doors corresponded with the small doors on both ends of the coop, when the pen and coop were attached. The scratching pen was firmly built and very light, so that it could be very easily moved about. When cleaning the coop or to give the fowls fresh range, it was only necessary to close the sliding door and move the pen to the desired location. The doors were made on both sides of the coop, so that the movable pen could be used on either side. By changing the location of the pen every two or three weeks the soil could be spaded and given a chance to purify. The coop was not floored with lumber; we sunk 6 inch foundation boards into the ground and filled the enclosed space with gravel and cinders, so that it was several inches higher than the outside sur- face. The coop was set on top of this foundation and a trench was made around the outside edges. This pre- vented moisture from settling in the coop, and we had no trouble on this account. 22 Fresh Air Colony Coop and Movable Pen THE THIRD YEAR Trying Out the New Colony Coop. Improving the Chick Pens. The third year's work was begun with sixteen year- ling hens and one male bird, somewhat older, but still in fine condition. The cock and eight of the young hens were given the full liberty of the yard. The eight remain- ing hens were transferred from the chick pens to the new colony coop, and in the course of a few days, were mated to a good male bird that cost us in the neighbor- hood of five dollars. The birds were transferred to their new quarters in the early part of February, and so far had produced no eggs. It was not until several weeks later, after we had given them a more invigorating grade of food than the ordinary, that we began to get results. Both flocks began to lay at practically the same time ; and for three weeks or a month the egg yield was about the same, if anything, slightly favoring the flock in the large yard. When the spring rains set in and prevented the flock from exercising in the large yard, the advantages of the colony coop, with its sheltered exercising pen, became apparent. The wet, disagreeable weather lasted, off and on, for something like three weeks; and the difference in the egg yield between the two flocks, even in this short time, gave us much encouragement. For the twenty-one days in question, we gathered 71 eggs from the flock of eight hens in the large yard, and 110 eggs from the flock 23 of eight in the colony coop. This made a difference of 39 eggs in twenty-one days. In other words, each hen in the colony coop had given us about five eggs more than the average hen in the large yard. The good showing made by the colony coop hens pleased us greatly, but could not be taken as conclusive proof that the coop was a success. During the rainy weather, the flock in the coop had by far the best end of the bargain. They could scratch and exercise to their heart's content in the covered pen, while the other flock remained inactive in their closed quarters. Whether or not the colony coop flock would continue the good work during the entire summer in their limited space, when their natural instincts called for freedom and large range, was the question that had to be settled. By special atten- tion to the food proposition and proper methods of feed- ing, this question was settled, and settled to our un- bounded satisfaction. For the six months, from March to August, inclusive, we gathered 1,211 eggs— 548 from the flock in the large yard, and 663 from the flock in the colony coop. This made a difference of 115 eggs in favor of the flock in the coop. The average hen in the coop produced 14 eggs more than the average hen with the liberty of the large yard. This statement may surprise the reader, but it is, neverthe- less, a fact. We did not slight the fowls in the large yard ; both flocks received the same care and attention and the same quality and proportion of food ; the only difference lay in the manner of feeding grain food. When the fowls in the colony coop were fed grain, we took pains to rake it thoroughly into the loose soil of the pen, so that the birds had to work for it. This induced exercise, prob- ably more of it than would have been possible if the fowls had been allowed to run at large, and this served to keep the flock in the best of condition. The new colony coop had been designed, and was especially adapted for use during the winter months — the season of the year when our fowls were usually unpro- 24 ductive. We certainly had not expected such good re- sults for the summer months, and our success pleased us immensely. As for the egg yield in the winter, our an- ticipations were fully realized. We were not obliged to buy eggs for our table. On the contrary, the eight hens kept us well supplied, and we were able to sell several dozen, as well. Even in the dead of winter, when the ground was covered with snow for days at a time, our eight hens, secure and comfortable in their quarters, did not disappoint us. We seldom passed a day without gathering a fair number of eggs. For the four months, from November to February, inclusive, our two flocks produced 487 eggs. Of this number, 372 came from the colony coop flock and 115 from the flock in the large yard — a difference of 257 eggs be- tween the two flocks. These figures speak for themselves. The flock in the yard had barely earned their food ; while the flock in the coop not only earned their food, but had almost paid for the cost of their coop in the four winter months. We had our usual experience with broody hens, in our third year's work, and we accommodated each and every hen. There was good profit in chicks, if they could be raised to market size ; and, with our previous year's success in mind, we were encouraged to try again. The hens in the large yard were provided with extra nests in the poultry house, when they became broody. Lack of space prevented us from placing more nests in the colony coop, so we made nests in the shelter houses of the small chick pens that we had built the year before, and transferred the broody hens to them. By placing a partition through the center of the pens and building another shelter at the opposite end, we were able to set two hens in each pen ; the center partition prevented the hens from changing nests. When the chicks were hatched and several days old, one hen was returned to her flock; the partition was re- moved, and the remaining hen mothered the two broods. 25 Owing to the large number of chicks hatched during the third season, we were obliged to build several more chick pens. These pens were patterned somewhat after the large colony coop, and were a great improvement over the pens built during the second year. The new pens were 6 feet long, 3 feet wide and 1 foot high at the eaves ; the peak, or ridge board, was built one foot higher. The yard, or runway, was 4 feet long- and 3 feet wide. The shelter formed one end of the pen, with a floor space of 2 feet by 3 feet. The floor, roof and four sides of the shelter were made of %-inch matched lumber, and afforded the young chicks a safe retreat in cold weather. The end of the shelter that faced the run- way was made with a hinged door and when this was open, it formed the running board from the yard to the shelter, so that even the smallest chicks had no trouble in finding their way to the nest. Both sides of the roof were hinged to the ridge board, so that either side could be opened and adjusted to suit weather conditions. A shutter, about 6 inches high and the full width of the coop, was made in the rear section of the shelter, and, when necessary, this could be opened and the flooring taken out and cleaned. Plenty of ventilation, without drafts, was provided for, even when all doors and shutters were closed. The two wire covered frames that formed the top of the runway were also hinged to the ridge board, and proved very handy when feeding the chicks. A piece of water-proof cloth, about 4 feet wide by 5 feet long, was tacked to the ridge board and reached to the ground on both sides of the yard. A small strip of wood was attached to both ends, to serve as rollers, so that the cloth could be rolled up or down as desired. We saved many chicks by this simple arrangement ; it not only served as a sunshade in hot weather, but protected them from sudden showers, as well. 26 Movable Chick Shelter and Runway With the experience we gained during the first and second seasons, we succeeded in raising a good percentage of the chicks that were hatched. From a possible 192 eggs, our hens hatched 165 chicks; of these, 153 were suc- cessfully raised. With the exception of 24 pullets that were raised to maturity, and twelve month-old chicks that were sold at a good price, the balance of the young fowls were fattened and disposed of when they were three or four months old. Our good success was not due to any "newly discov- ered system" of poultry keeping. The sum and substance of the matter lay in the fact that we used a little common sense in our work and profited by past experiences. It was very seldom that we made the same mistake twice. As we have stated before, we knew practically noth- ing about raising poultry when we started, but we had ample opportunity to learn after the start ;was made. Every day we added to our scant store of knowledge. Every mistake was a lesson to be remembered. When certain conditions or certain food seemed to affect the fowls unfavorably, we did not stop until we had found out the why and wherefore of the matter, so that we could remedy the fault in an intelligent manner. The extent of our progress was only in proportion to the amount of interest and application we put into the work. This fact is the secret of success in any line of endeavor. To make good, it is necessary to unbend and "dig in." 27 Our success in raising the small chicks was due to the following facts : When chicks are raised in small flocks of not more than twenty-five, the percentage of loss is much smaller than would be the case where the flock is larger. We could have saved much space by raising them in larger flocks, but found it was poor economy. We kept our chicks in the small pens to prevent the larger fowls from trampling them ; to keep stray cats and other animals from carrying them off; and to prevent the small chicks from picking up the food intended for the adult birds. The coops were covered, to give shade on hot sum- mer days and especially to protect the small chicks from sudden rain storms. Adult fowls are not gifted with a very high order of intelligence, and we must not expect too much from the young fowls. We lost chicks several times simply because they did not know enough to get under cover when it rained; and it takes very little water and exposure to get the best of a newly-hatched chick. Above all things, the most important factor is clean- liness. We discovered this fact early in our poultry raising career, and made it our business to clean the coops and yards regularly. The condition of the setting hen has much to do with the future life of the chick. Tf the coop or the hen is full of mites and lice, it is impos- sible for her to set faithfully, or to give the eggs proper attention ; and the result is, either no chicks or chicks with very poor vitality. If the chicks are hatched, the parasites take immediate possession of them and make them uneasy and fretful, with the result that they fall victims to the slightest disorder of their systems. We sprayed all coops and pens regularly with a so- lution of lime, water, and crude carbolic acid. This proved a most effective way of ridding the coops of mites. The solution soaked into the wood and, while not af- fecting the fowls, it made existence impossible for the mites. For the riddance of any body lice that might have found lodgment, we used a prepared insect powder. 28 This was sifted into the feathers of the fowls and rubbed in thoroughly. When setting a broody hen, we took care to make the nest of good, clean straw, and gave it a sprinkling of the powder before the eggs were placed. The hen was also given an application, and we were pretty certain that the chicks would not be handicapped at the very be- ginning of life, by thousands of vitality-sapping parasites. The feeding proposition is, perhaps, the most trou- blesome problem with which the beginner has to contend. In fact, the majority of the thousands of young fowls that die annually are lost from improper feeding or from causes that can be traced directly to it. The main trouble lies in overfeeding the young chicks. It would not be stretching the truth in the least, to state that for every chick that dies from lack of food, at least one hundred die from overfeeding. When the chick leaves the shell, nature has provided it with sufficient food for at least thirty-six hours; after that time food should be given in small quantities every three or four hours during the day. As the chicks grow older, the rations are gradually increased and the time between meals lengthened. As to the nature of food to be given young chicks, there is a wide difference of opinion. Every successful poultry raiser has his own ideas on the subject. We used several kinds of food, with more or less success, and finally decided to try a certain brand of prepared chick food which was widely adver- tised, and guaranteed to be of the best quality. This proved very satisfactory to us and we have continued to use it. When the chicks were two days old, we scattered about two tablespoons full of this grain before each brood of 24 chicks, four times daily. The amount was increased or diminished as the occasion demanded — the supply be- ing governed by the appetites of the chicks. The only way to gauge the amount of food to be given is to watch the chicks eat. The grain scattered before them should 29 not be more than they can clean up in a few minutes time; if a quantity of the grain is left untouched after the chicks have satisfied their hunger, it shows overfeed- ing, and will result in trouble, if not remedied. Plenty of fresh, clean water should be kept before the chicks from the first day. A small hopper of pulver- ized charcoal should also be placed where they can get to it handily. This does much to prevent diarrhoea — a disease very common to young chicks. It is absolutely necessary that the young fowls get a certain amount of small grit, in order to digest their food properly. If the soil on which they run is sandy, it answers the purpose very well ; if not, the grit must be furnished them. It should be given to them very spar- ingly at first until they learn its value. The grit should not be placed before them in hoppers the first few days or they will eat too much of it. We lost several chicks on this account before we suspected the trouble. It is best to mix the grit with the chick food when feeding. After five or six days, it may be set before them in hop- pers or scattered around in the pens, and the young chicks will pick it up whenever they require it. Before the end of the third year, we built two more colony coops, in preparation for the next season's work. We had proved to our complete satisfaction that the coop used the third year was of genuine merit, and we were anxious to increase our flock and our profits. The two flocks of hens and the oldest male bird were sold at a good price before the beginning of the fourth season ; and the twenty-four pullets we had raised to maturity were transferred from the small pens to the three colony coops. These pullets had been chosen from the several flocks because of the good laying qualities of the hens that produced them ; and we had high hopes that the average egg yield per hen would be increased considrably in the coming season. 30 Receipts and Expenditures for the Third Year. EXPENSES RECEIPTS 1 cock $ 5.00 16 hens and 1 cock $15.00 1 colony coop 8.00 117 market fowls at 40c. , 46.80 New chick pens and im- 140 doz. eggs at 25c 35.00 provements 10.00 12 month-old chicks ... 3.00 Food for adult fowls 20.00 Value of 24 pullets 24.00 Foor for chicks 7.50 Value of 1 cock 5.00 Tonics and medicines 1.50 $128.80 $52.00 52.00 Profits $ 76.80 We sold our eggs and fowls at the highest price obtainable, to neighbors and markets in the neighbor- hood, and the prices varied considerably with the season of the year and the condition of the wholesale markets. Forty cents each for market fowls and twenty-five cents per dozen for eggs was usually the average. Our own table was supplied with fresh eggs and poultry from the season's output. This value is included in the receipts for the year. The third year's work shows a profit of $76.80. With a total flock of sixteen hens, this gives a profit of about $4.80 for each hen, or about one dollar more per hen than was realized for the second season. This increase was not due to better weather conditions or to luck, but simply to the fact that we were very much interested in the work and left nothing undone that would serve to better the conditions of the fowls. THE FOURTH YEAR A Clear Profit of $12.00 From Each Hen. When we set up the three colony coops, we were careful to take into consideration the amount of yard space required to give each flock fresh range every day, and planned the location of the coops so that it would be necessary to move the pens but a short distance to ac- complish this. 31 The dimensions of the original poultry yard that we had fenced was 60 feet east and west and about 50 feet north and south. Each colony coop and scratching pen required a space 12 feet long by 6 feet wide, besides the extra allowance for fresh range. Coop No. 1 was placed 9 feet from the west fence line, with the front of the coop facing south and about 14 feet from the south fence line. Coops Nos. 2 and 3 were set on a line with Coop No. 1, from east to west, and were spaced about 6 feet apart. By this arrangement it was possible to give each flock fresh range every day for seven successive days, without moving the pens more than 12 feet from the coops. In five or six days the vegetation on the ground first used was renewed, and the pens could be moved over the same route again] It is well to state here that the entire yard had been sowed in clover, and our poultry fed on this all summer, repaying us many times over for the little trouble and expense to which we had gone. On the north half of the yard we located our small chick pens. Owing to the lack of space, we were obliged to limit the number to eight. We could have used sev- eral more of these pens, but it would then have been impossible to furnish sufficient range for the chicks; and plenty of fresh range, especially for young chicks, was a matter that we had found of much importance. The small pens were placed in a row, about three feet from the north fence and about three feet apart, with the open scratching yard facing the south. This gave us plenty of space to move the pens for five suc- cessive days, and the chicks enjoyed fresh, clean range at all times. The northwest corner of the yard was occupied by our original poultry house. This was cleaned and fitted with shelves, and used as a store room for grain, straw and other supplies needed for every day use. 32 c c c c c c "1 A B A B i A 6 i — ! . --I Illustration of Poultry Yard and Coops This plan of the poultry yard shows where the three colony coops and the eight chick coops were located; the dotted lines illustrate how the pens were moved each day to give the fowls fresh range. Two flocks of our hens were kept without male birds until the latter part of March. We had decided early in the year to get two of the very best birds we could afford, and placed an order with an out-of-town poultry raiser with a reputation as a breeder of fine birds. For some cause, the shipment was delayed and we were obliged to wait several weeks before the birds arrived. These two fowls cost up $15.00. This may seem a bit extravagant on our part, from one point of view. When one takes into consideration the uplift it gave to the quality of the fowls hatched during the fourth season, it places the matter in a different light. It would have been a lucky investment indeed, considering the small amount of money involved, that would have given us the returns that we realized by mating these two fowls to our two flocks of hens. 33 Caring for the Fowls. A vessel of good, clean water was kept before the fowls at all times ; during the hot summer months, a fresh supply was furnished five or six times daily ; on cold winter days we gave them warm water several times a day, or as often as necessary to keep it from freezing. Grit, in the form of crushed stone and ground oyster or clam shells, was always before them, in small hoppers. To prevent bowel trouble, a hopper of crushed char- coal was placed where the fowls could get to it easily. We saved space and simplified matters considerably by using one hopper with three separate compartments for the charcoal, crushed stone and ground shells. A well filled hopper of dry wheat bran was kept in the pens at all times, winter and summer. This formed the principal bulk food for the fowls, and great quanti- ties of it were consumed. This is not only one of the most inexpensive poultry foods, but it is also known as a preventive of indigestion. Its liberal use will do much to keep the fowls in good health. For the first meal in the morning, we gave the fowls a liberal amount of mixed grain — such a wheat, barley, cracked corn, millet and Kaffir corn. Wheat was fed every morning, but an equal portion of some other grain was mixed with it. In order to get the best results from poultry it is necessary to give them a variety of food. They will not thrive on a certain diet day after day. One day we used wheat and barley; the next, wheat and millet. We some- times fed three or four kinds of grain at the same time. In winter we added buckwheat to our list of grain food, but this was not fed in summer, because of its heat pro- ducing qualities. The feeding proposition was watched closely, to pre- vent any waste of grain. If the fowls refused to eat any certain grain, we discontinued it for a few days until there was a desire for it again. The scatching pens were spaded often and the soil kept loose. After the grain was scattered in the pens, 34 it was immediately covered with soil and the fowls were obliged to work for their food. This method of feeding grain was practiced at all times. When fowls are kept in small quarters, with no opportunity for foraging, the exercise induced by this manner of feeding is absolutely necessary for the health of the fowls. Shortly after the morning meal we moved the pen a few feet from the coop, so that the fowls could pick up what green food they required. The cloth covers were then adjusted to give shade, and the birds were cool and contented even on the hottest summer days. The second meal was served after midday and was usually in the form of a mash. We followed no set rule in preparing the mash food ; like the grain food, the in- gredients were varied each day. The mash consisted mainly of table scraps — not garbage, bear in mind — but clean, wholesome food left over from the table. Bread, vegetables and cereals, mixed with wheat bran, ground oats, corn meal, middlings, steamed clover or alfalfa, and seasoned with salt and pepper. To give the reader some idea of the proportions used, we obtained good results from the following mixtures : Table scraps 1 part Wheat bran 4' parts Table scraps 1 part Corn meal or middlings 3 parts Table scraps 1 part Ground oats 3 parts One part steamed clover or alfalfa was frequently used with any of the above mixtures. Meat scraps were fed three or four times weekly; only lean meat was used, and this was cut into small strips and scattered in the pens, so that every fowl could get a share. We some- times varied the program, by mixing the meat scraps with the mash food; ten parts mash to one part lean meat. It is surprising to see how greedily fowls go after meat scraps. It must be fed with caution. A little will do 35 much good; too much at a time will cause trouble. In preparing mash foods, care should be taken not to make it sloppy; it should be moistened just enough to make it crumbly. The pens were moved back to the coops about the middle of the afternoon, and a small portion of grain was buried in the loose soil to keep them busy for a time. The last meal for the day was fed just before the birds went to roost, and consisted of cracked corn ; a lib- eral amount of this was fed, so that their crops were well filled for the night. On account of the early sunrise in summer, the fowls were often kept waiting several hours for their morn- ing meal. We overcame this by burying the grain in the pens at night after the fowls had gone to roost. The coop door was closed during the operation to prevent the birds from leaving the roost. They could then enjoy their meal at the first break of day ; and by the time the family was up and about, the fowls were scratching and singing con- tentedly. In wet and doubtful weather the yards were not moved away from the coops. The cloth covers were rolled down to keep out the rain, as it was necessary to keep the floor of the yard quite dry in order to feed the grain properly. In winter we experienced some difficulty in this direction, on account of the ground freezing; but we remedied this by filling in the floor of the pens with dry gravel and ashes to the depth of several inches. In setting up the colony coops, we had taken the pre- caution to dig trenches around the outside edges of the pens, to prevent water running in during heavy rains. This, and the fact that we let the covers down in wet weather, kept the coops and pens dry and free from moisture. The winter feeding differed somewhat from the sys- tem followed in summer. The fowls required more heat- producing foods and were given plenty of corn chops, buckwheat, and warm mashes. Barley was also used quite often. The mash food was fed twice a day in 36 winter, and a larger portion of corn meal was used in making it. The morning meal of wheat and mixed grain was continued throughout the year. To keep hens in good laying condition, it is neces- sary to keep them supplied with a certain amount of green food; we found this to be so very early in our experience, and gave our fowls a daily allowance. In the summer season this was easily accomplished by mov- ing the yards each day. When the natural supply gave out, we substituted sprouted oats. This proved equally as good, if not better than the growing grass and clover and was an invaluable aid to the winter egg production. SPROUTED OATS. It is not a very hard matter to sprout oats and no special equipment is required. The following features are essential: A good quality of oats; several properly constructed boxes or trays ; and a warm room — preferably a cellar or basement that admits plenty of light. To supply our twenty-seven fowls, we constructed four boxes, each 10 by 12 inches square and 6 inches high ; the bottoms were not boarded, but were covered with screen. To allow for drainage, two strips of wood were fastened to the bottom of the boxes, one at each end, so that the screen on the bottom of the boxes cleared the floor about one-fourth of an inch. Four pieces of ordi- nary window glass were used as covers, to admit light and to retain the warmth and moisture. From 2 to 2j/£ pints of oats were spread in one of these boxes and thor- oughly sprinkled with warm water. The oats were then covered with three thicknesses of burlap and again sprin- kled. The oats were sprinkled once a day and the bur- lap left on until the sprouts were about an inch high ; the burlap was then removed and the box covered with the window glass. The glass was kept on the box until the sprouts were about three inches high, when it was taken off and the box left uncovered. Feeding was begun when the sprouts were about four inches high. With a sharp knife we cut down 37 through the sprouts and divided the contents of the box into five sections, each two inches wide and twelve inches long. One of these sections was divided each day be- tween the three flocks. One box would last five days. By planting the four boxes about five days apart, and replanting as soon as one was empty, we had no trouble in always keeping a supply on hand. In sprouting oats it is necessary that only new, heavy grain be used ; and care should be taken that an oversupply is not sprouted, for if the grain is not used, after a certain time it becomes sour and is unfit for feed- ing. Fowls should not be fed too much of the sprouted oats at one time or it will cause bowel trouble. Caring for the Small Chicks. During the hatching process, we did not disturb the hens by trying to help them. In the first and second sea- son's work we made this mistake and found that more harm than good resulted ; it only served to excite the hens, and often resulted in death and injury to the young chicks. We came to the conclusion that the hens knew much more about hatching chicks than we did, and they were left alone until the hatch was over. About twenty-four hours after the first chick was hatched, we removed broken shells and unhatched eggs and made the nest as comfortable as possible for the hen and her brood. For the following twenty-four hours they were left alone to rest and gain strength. A fount of good, clean water was placed in the pen after the first day and we were careful to keep the water fount in a sanitary condition, especially during the first week after the hatch. A two-compartment hopper, containing wheat bran and pulverized charcoal, was placed before the chicks after the third day. The birds were supplied with this at all times during their whole life. The pens were well spaded and the soil liberally mixed with sand; this allowed the chicks plenty of grit, and we experienced no trouble on this account. 38 The first meal given to the young chicks consisted of a variety of mixed grain, commonly called "Chick Food," Several brands of chick food are sold on the market, and we were careful to get the best grade possible. When the chicks were forty-eight hours old, a little of the pre- pared food was raked into the soil in the pens, and the little fellows were soon scratching busily for it. For the first four or five days a small portion oi the food was given to them five times daily. In three weeks this had been cut down to three times daily. This does not mean that the rations were cut down ; the chicks were always given as much as they could safely eat, but the time between meals was lengthened. In feeding young chicks it is very important that too much is not given them at one time ; they should be given just enough to satisfy their hunger for the time being, and no more. We always made it a rule to mix the grain with the soil or litter in the pens, so that the little fellows had to hus- tle for it. Small chicks, as well as adult fowls, must ex- ercise in order to retain health. If all food is given to them in hoppers and no inducements offered for exercise, poor results may be expected. Th young fowls were not given green food until six or eight days old. After that age the pens were moved daily, so that they could pick up what green food they required, and to give the original site of the pen a chance to purify. As the chicks grew older, a small amount of green food, such as onion tops, cabbage and lettuce were chopped fine and given to them several times a week. When two hens hatched their chicks a few days apart, we gave one hen both broods of chicks to take care of, and returned the other to the colony coop. We often bad a number of chicks, whose ages varied from six to eight days, all mothered by one hen, but in these instances the youngest chicks were at least eight or ten days old before they were mixed with the others. After the third week the mother hens were returned to their respective flocks and the chick shelters given a thorough cleaning. A fresh litter of short cut straw and 39 clover was placed on the floor of the shelter to insure warmth and comfort for the chicks. Heretofore we had allowed the hens to remian with the chicks for at least four weeks ; this was done prin- cipally to prevent the young fowls from becoming chilled at night, for at this season of the year the weather was very unsettled, and we thought it best to take no chances. We found, however, by experimenting, that we could provide sufficient warmth for the chicks at this age with- out using the hens, and we were thus able to use twelve or more hens for egg production for one week. This seems a small item at first thought but it is really larger than it seems. In the seven days saved, the twelve hens produced, practically, five dozen eggs. At this time of the year setting eggs were in great de- mand and we had no trouble in disposing of them at $1.50 for fifteen eggs. This netted us six dollars, — almost one dollar for each day saved. The device we used to keep the chicks warm was simply a light frame covered with burlap. This frame was made of four strips of wood, % in. by 2 in., and when put together, measured about two feet in length and one and one-half feet in width, or just large enough to fit loosely into one end of the chick shelter. The piece of burlap was tacked to the frame so that it sagged at the center. To hold the frame in position, we fastened four nails to the inside walls of the shelter, two on either side, and the burlap frame rested on the projecting ends of these. The distance from the floor to the frame depended upon the size of the chicks, and was gauged so as to al- low the burlap to rest upon their backs. With a good litter of straw under foot and the burlap overhead, the small chicks were kept snug and warm in the chilly weather. If the weather became unusually cool, we add- ed another layer of burlap to the frame, so that more heat would be retained. In using an overhead cover of this kind, it is important that no closely woven or heavy cloth be used, or the chicks are liable to smother, unless some other means are taken to provide ventilation. 40 More Profit in Matured Fowls. During the three previous seasons we had given but little attention to any particular branch of the poultry business. We had simply gone ahead in a general way; gathering eggs, hatching chicks, and disposing of our stock at the earliest possible moment and at the regular market price, without regard and, in fact, without think- ing of the several more profitable angles of the work. When we stop to consider, however, that we knew prac- tically nothing about poultry when we started, and that what success we had was attained only through hard ex- perience, we feel that we did very well indeed as it was. In our fourth year's work we resolved to use a more profitable method in disposing of our stock ; and, with this end in view, we sorted our flock of young chicks into two groups — one group, ordinary market fowls, and a second and much smaller group of cockerels and pullets, to be raised and sold at maturity. By using what knowl- edge we possessed, and with the aid of the "American Standard of Perfection," we succeeded in picking out the most perfect specimens in our flocks, and separated them from the other fowls. It had been our aim from the beginning to build up the quality of our fowls and, to a certain extent, we had been very successful. The adult fowls used in the fourth season were exceptionally fine looking birds. To' judge from the parent stock, the picked lot of chicks would develop into still better fowls, and we felt certain that our profits would be much better if we raised them to maturity, even after deducting the extra cost of feed- ing, than would be the case if we sold them as market fowls. Having graded the chicks to our satisfaction, we bent our efforts towards fattening the fowls intended for the market, so that we could dispose of them as quickly as possible; we were somewhat cramped for room, and there was more money in them if sold early in the season. 41 Fattening the Market Birds. When chicks are not to be raised to maturity, their digestive apparatus can be taxed to the utmost in order to fatten them quickly, without injury to the birds, pro- viding the forced feeding is not carried on for too long a period. We began the feeding when the chicks were about four weeks old and continued the work until they were ten or twelve weeks old ; at that time, if conditions were right, the fowls weighed in the neighborhood of two pounds each. In fattening the birds we depended mainly on mash food, but grain and green food was also given to induce exercise and to keep them in trim. We started the fourth week by giving them one mash feed daily." The next week this was increased to two ; and when the chicks were eight weeks old, we were giving them four mash feeds daily. Green food was pro- vided for them regularly, and grain was buried in the soil in the pens every day, to induce exercise. Lean meat, chopped up fine, was fed several times a week, either mixed with the mash or scattered in the pens. Milk, when it could be spared, was often used in preparing the mash food. It is an excellent food for any kind of fowl, and can be fed either sweet or sour. Sev- eral kinds of mash food were tried. The one that proved most satisfactory was a mixture of corn meal, wheat bran, and ground oats (without hulls) ; equal parts of each were used, and a pinch of salt was added for sea- soning. This mash should not be sloppy, but just mois- tened enough to make it crumbly. If a little charcoal is mixed in the mash, it will help to keep the chicks' bowels in good condition. In fattening chicks, the beginner is liable to make the mistake of feeding too much at a time. This should be guarded against. The idea is to feed just enough at a time so that the chicks will be hungry for the next meal. We began to dispose of the market fowls shortly after the tenth week and sold the last bird in less than 42 two weeks. We could have disposed of them in much less time to any of the many commission firms in town, but this would have meant less profit to us. We made arrangements with several market keepers in our neigh- borhood, and through them, the fowls were sold six or twelve at a time, or as many as they required to fill their orders. By doing this, we realized about ten cents more for each fowl than would have been possible if we had dealt with the commission people. For the flock of 142 fowls this amounted to $14.20, an item worth looking after. After the market fowls were sold, the pens they had occupied were used for the growing cockerels and pullets. The 3 by 6-foot pens provided ample room for twenty to twenty-four three-months old chicks; but as the fowls grew older and larger, the pens became quite crowded and we were obliged to reduce the number of birds in each to eight or ten. Feeding Chicks for Maturity. Until the sixth week, the food given to the growing cockerels and pullets consisted principally of "Chick Food," with the daily allowance of green food when the pens were moved. The dry wheat bran was supplied at all times, and lean meat and sour milk were fed occasion- ally when we had it to spare. After the sixth week we gradually stopped feeding the "Chick Food," and sub- stituted coarser grain. For their morning meal, wheat, corn chops and hulled oats were used. This was buried in the loose soil, and kept the birds busy for several hours. At noon, a mash made of equal parts of corn meal, wheat bran and ground oats and two parts of alfalfa, was fed ; a pinch of salt and pepper was added to the mash to season it. Corn chops and oats were fed for the evening meal. They were given all of this they could eat, so that their crops were full for the night. When the growing fowls were ten weeks old, we added barley and buckwheat to their grain food. At this age they were also given unhulled oats, without injurious 43 results. When the coarse grain was substituted for the small chick food, we supplied them with coarse grit also. Crushed stone, clam and oyster shells were placed in the pens, and a larger grade of charcoal was used instead of the finely crushed article. As the birds neared maturity, we sorted the several flocks once more. At this age their bodies were well developed and their good points could be readily dis- tinguished. We decided it was good policy to separate the more perfect fowls from those that were not up to standard, and found later that this was a wise move, as it had considerable influence over prices. When the fowls reached the proper stage of develop- ment, we inserted an advertisement in one of the Sun- day papers, describing our stock and giving prices. The results were even better than we had expected. The demand was such that the entire flock, with the ex- ception of eight pullets for our own use, were sold in less than three weeks. The finest cockerels brought $3.00 each; the pullets, $2.50 each. For the birds not quite up to standard, we averaged $2.50 each for the cockerels and $2.00 each for the pullets. We refused many good offers for the eight pullets we had retained for our own use, from people who came after the other fowls had been sold. One party went so far as to offer us $25.00 for the flock, which we refused. We had the pleasure, several months later, of selling the same gentleman an entire flock of our birds, including the colony coop and pen. So great a following has the poultry industry, and so great is the demand for well-bred fowls, that the sale of the birds is by far the easiest part of the business. The egg yield for the fourth year was a record breaker, so far as our experience had gone. The three flocks of eight hens produced 292 dozen eggs, an average of 146 eggs per hen for the year. Twenty-four hens had been set on 288 eggs, hatching 278 chicks ; and 240 of the chicks were successfully raised. 44 After the final sorting and grading, our stock con- sisted of 142 market fowls, 18 first class cockerels, 25 first class pullets, and 28 cockerels and 27 pullets not quite up to standard, but nevertheless, fine looking fowls. Eight first class pullets were kept for our own use. The two cocks we had bought at the beginning of the fourth year, and two flocks of hens were also kept for service during the fifth year. The other flock of eight hens and the male bird were sold before the close of the fourth year. The Fourth Year's Results. EXPENSES RECEIPTS 2 cocks $ 15.00 8 hens and 1 cock $ 16.00 2 colony coops 16.00 142 market birds at 40c. 56.80 Food for adult fowls and 255 doz. eggs at 25c 63.75 growing fowls 88.00 10 settings of 15 eggs Food for chicks 30.00 each 15.00 Tonics and medicines. .. . 5.00 Value of 16 hens 24.00 Value of 2 cocks 15.00 $154.00 Value of 8 pullets 20.00 18 first class cockerels.. 54.00 25 first class pullets 62.50 28 second class cockerels 70.00 27 second class pullets.. 54.00 $451.05 154.00 Profits $297.05 The fourth year's work gave us a profit of $297.05, or about $12.37 for each hen in the three flocks. This substantial increase in our profits was, of course, due to the fact that we received good prices for the fowls raised and sold at maturity ; and these prices would not have been possible if our birds had not been well-bred. Another cause that promoted the sale of our stock and influenced prices was the condition in which we kept the poultry yard. The coops and pens were nicely paint- ed and kept clean and orderly. When giving fresh range to the fowls, the pens were not placed about in haphazard fashion. System was the rule in everything. The pens 45 and coops were placed in regular lines, and presented a pleasing appearance at all times. Prospective buyers were favorably impressed from the first glance at our fowls, and this helped considerably in making a sale. In the expense account is an item of $5.00 for medi- cine ; this includes disinfectants used in spraying the coops, and also the insect powder with which we treated the fowls, to prevent lice trouble. Aside from the annual loss of young chicks, we ex- perienced no trouble from poultry diseases. Thorough cleanliness, proper feeding, and plenty of fresh air kept our fowls in good health. We also considered an ounce of prevention to be worth a pound of cure, and gave our fowls, young and old, a good tonic several times a week. The cost was but a trifle and it could do no harm, whereas, its regu- lar and persistent use probably did much to keep our fowls in good condition. In our expense account for the past year and for the previous years as well, we have endeavored to give the exact figures, as nearly as possible, of our receipts and expenses. The receipts show what we actually received for our stock, not what we should have received ; and in no instance has anything been deducted from the expense accounts. The various items show every dollar expended in the four years' work, with the exception of experi- menting on colony coops. No account was kept of the time and labor involved ; this was, of course, furnished gratis. Personally, I did not lose an hour's time from my regular business. The family attended to the feed- ing and gave the fowls practically all the care required, aside from the heavy work, such as cleaning and spading ; this I found time to do in the mornings and evening be* fore and after business hours, and on Sundays. The only time the poultry required really close at- tention was during the breeding season, when the chicks were very young. It was then necessary to attend to them four or five times daily, and this gave the family 46 but little time for visiting or shopping. This period lasted for several weeks and then the work was less confining. When a limited number of fowls are used and the caretaker is interested in the work, poultry keeping be- comes a source of pleasure; and, as our experience shows, it can be made to yield a substantial profit, if common sense methods are used in caring for the fowls. We do not consider our ability to make each hen yield a clear profit of $12.37 a year to be anything out of the ordinary. This much profit, or more, per hen, is the rule rather than the exception among poultry keepers who have made it their aim to build up the good qualities of their fowls. It is nothing unusual to hear or read of people paying several hundred dollars for a single fowl, or five dollars each for setting eggs. It would, of course, be next to impossible for the be- ginner to get returns as large as this; but it shows what can be accomplished by patient and persistent effort. We would suggest that the beginner get started with as good a quality of fowls as possible, and apply himself to the task of upbuilding the flock. A few seasons of in- telligent work to this end will bring certain reward. The aim should be to win a reputation as a breeder of high- class fowls. When this has been accomplished, there will be no difficulty in selling the stock at good prices. Helpful Hints for the Beginner. Well-bred fowls are essential to success. A small flock of hens in a fair sized yard give better results than a large flock with unlimited range. Clean coops and pens, plenty of fresh air, with protection from rain and snow, will win half the battle; careful and economical feeding will win the other half. Good results should not be expected when fowls are fed on corn chops and water the whole year round. Fowls should not be allowed to tire of a certain food. Give them variety. Grit, char- coal, and wheat bran should be kept before the fowls at all times. Green food, in the form of grass, clover, grow- ing grain or sprouted oats, is necessary every day in the 47 year for good egg production. Exercise should be in- duced by covering all grain food with soil or litter. When the hens are restless at night on account of mites, and spend half the day fighting lice, the egg basket will never be full. Use plenty of insect powder and dis- infectants before it is too late. Be liberal with fresh litter for the coops; it pro- vides warmth in winter, and the fowls like to scratch in it. Drinking water should not be allowed to become stale or dirty. It pays to know which hens in the flock are the best layers, and to mark their eggs and keep them for setting purposes ; this is the only way to breed a good laying strain of poultry. When a hen becomes broody, provide a good, clean nest, and give both fowl and nests an application of in- sect powder. Do not place the nest where the hen will suffer from the heat. Provide a cool spot as close to the ground as possible, and provide protection from the weather and from animals. Eggs to be used for setting should be gathered as soon as possible and kept in a cool place where the tem- perature is between 40 and 50 degrees. Hens will hatch a better percentage of chicks from a given number of eggs than any incubator on earth, and without any trou- ble or care to speak of. Some poultry keepers place 15 or 16 eggs under the hen ; we had better results when using only 12 eggs ; the hen could cover them much better, and a greater per- centage of chicks were hatched. Except to feed and water, it is best not to disturb the setting hen. It sometimes happens that certain hens leave the nest for too long a period and allow the eggs to become chilled. When this is the case, it is necessary to watch her closely and if possible, to give the nest to an- other hen. 48 Some poultry raisers claim many chicks can be saved by helping them out of the shells. We did not have any success at this. Without exception, every chick we helped from the shell died a few hours later, or was crip- pled and unfit to live. If eggs do not hatch, don't blame the hen ; the trou- ble is probably infertile eggs. Chicks should not be fed until at least thirty-six hours old. It is better to feed too little than too much. Chicks, as well as adult fowls, must be made to exercise. Cover the chick food with soil or litter. Provide shelter from the weather and protection from animals and insect parasites. It is not economy to keep more than 25 chicks in one flock. Do not allow the brood house to become damp or filthy. Plenty of clean, dry litter should be provided reg- ularly. Plenty of small grit, ground charcoal, wheat bran, and good water are every day necessities in the chick pens. Early spring chicks bring the best prices on the market. When fattening chicks for market, the forced feeding should not begin too early nor last too long, or the fowls will not do well. It pays to grade and sort the fowls to be raised to maturity. When the fowls are kept in one flock, one price usually holds good for all, and buyers insist upon picking out the best looking birds. If they are graded into several pens, it is possible to obtain better prices for the best birds. Well kept coops and pens not only help the fowls, but also make the prospective buyers more willing to buy the birds. Never misrepresent the stock to customers if you wish to establish a reputation for fair dealing. One dissatisfied customer will do more harm than the good will of several satisfied ones can counteract. 49 KEEPING A SMALL FLOCK OF POULTRY. To the beginner who wants to start poultry keeping on a small scale, we offer the following suggestions and information : It is presumed that the reader has no practical knowledge of the work. If such is the case, the information given will undoubtedly prove of value; it is based upon our own experience and is the exact course we would pursue if we were to start over again. Location. Any level piece of ground containing 20 by 25 feet of space or more — a part of the back yard, a section of the lawn, or any available space not too far from the resi- dence. It should be open to the sunlight, and have suf- ficient drainage to allow the water to escape during heavy rains. Grass or clover should be sowed, to furnish the flock green food during the summer season. If a light fence of poultry netting is built around the entire space, it will serve to keep curious people and stray animals at a distance. While the fence is not absolutely necessary, it is of considerable benefit in a crowded city or town, where people are continually coming and going and mis- chievous children are always on the lookout for some prank to play. Housing. If the beginner wants the best possible results from the poultry, an open-front colony coop and pen should be used. These can be made by any one without much trouble, provided the person is handy with tools. The material required is of standard size, and can be obtained in any town or village. The colony coop can be set up at any place in the yard, provided due allowance is made for the movable pen. The front of the coop should face the south, to give the fowls all the sunlight possible in the cold winter months. The foundation boards of the coop should be sunk into the ground almost their full width, and the SO inside floor line raised several inches higher, by filling in with ashes and gravel; the floor of the pen should also be filled in with the same material, so that it will be higher than the outside surface. A trench should be made around the outside edges of the coop and pen, so that there will be no possible chance of water running in dur- ing heavy rains. Several inches of short-cut straw, hay or clover should be spread over the floor of the coop for the fowls to exercise in. Fowls. The beginner must first decide what breed of fowls to use, and then endeavor to get the best possible birds the purse will allow. In choosing the breed, the first and most important matter to consider is their ability to stand confinement ; after that, their qualities as layers, setters and market fowls. There are many breeds. Each have their good points, and poultry raisers naturally claim their favorite breed the best. In our experience we have used only one breed of fowls, the Barred Rocks, and found them perfectly satisfactory in every way ; we would, therefore, prefer them to any other breed of poultry. In choosing the fowls, it would not be wise to pur- chase them from some breeder of fancy stock and pay ten or twenty dollars for each bird. A hen costing twenty dollars cannot lay more eggs than one costing one or two dollars, if the latter is well bred. For ordinary purposes, fowls that are worth one or two dollars each will prove satisfactory to the beginner. With proper handling and breeding for several years, it is possible to raise prize- winning birds from this stock. If the reader lives in a large town or city, it is no trouble to pick up excellent bargains almost every day, by following the advertisements in the papers. The hens and male birds should not be related; if there are any doubts in this matter, it is best to buy the hens of one party and the male bird of another. Disinfectants — Insecticides. The value of clean coops and freedom from parasites cannot be overestimated. The coops should be cleaned 51 every day if possible, especially in the summer months. They should never be allowed to go for more than one week without a thorough cleaning and spading and a change of litter. When first set up, the inside of the coop and pen should be sprayed or painted with a disinfectant. An inex- pensive and satisfactory solution can be made of water, lime, and crude carbolic acid. Five cents worth of lime, dissolved in one gallon of water, and five cents worth of crude carbolic acid added when the lime has dissolved, will be sufficient for one colony coop and pen. It can be ap- plied with either spray pump or brush. It is important that corners, cracks and crevices are not overlooked in applying the solution, because these are the hiding places of mites. Before the fowls are placed in their clean quarters they also should be treated for insects. Aside from the mites, which attack the fowls only at night and drop off when the birds leave the roost in the morning, two other parasites must be guarded against. The insects in question are known as "body lice" and "head lice." The same treat- ment will not prove effective for both, because of their dif- ferent habits. Body lice are found on all parts of the fowl but espe- cially around the fluffy feathers. The fowls should be treated with an insect powder especially prepared for the purpose. The powder should be applied by holding the fowl by the legs, with the head down, and dusting it into the feathers. It should be rubbed into the skin thoroughly, particularly among the small, fluffy feathers, where most of the lice find lodgment. Head lice should be looked for on the heads of the adult fowls. They are blood suckers and a few of them fastened to the head of a fowl will quickly reduce its vital- ity and usefulness. The greatest care should be taken that small chicks do not fall victims to them. A setting hen should be free of head lice, or they will fasten on the heads and throats of the chicks as soon as they are hatched and quickly sap their life blood. When examining fowls for head lice, it is necessary to look closely in order to detect them ; thev bore clear down to the base of the feathers, and on account of their large size, are often mistaken for pin feathers. To kill head lice the infected parts should be rubbed with Head Lice Ointment or Salve, a preparation that can be obtained at any poultry supply house. When fowls have been newly purchased, they should be given treatment for lice every week or ten days, to pre- vent possible nits from hatching and giving the lice an- other foothold on the fowls. After the coops and fowls are rid of the insects it is well to keep up the good work by using the preparations at least once a month, as preventatives. Medicines. The best way to keep the fowls in good health is to see that their quarters are fresh and clean ; to provide draft-proof coops ; and to feed them the right quality and quantity of food. When this is done, there is no reason for the fowls to become sick. It is much better to prevent than to cure; and for this reason it would be a good idea to give the fowls, young and old, a safe tonic several times a week. During the moulting period a tonic is especially beneficial, because the birds are then susceptible to diseases on account of their low vitality. White Diarrhoea is the most fatal of all the diseases to which young chicks are subject. More than 60 per cent of all chicks hatched annually, die of this ailment. It was the only disease that caused us any trouble to speak of, and we overcame it by giving the chicks a remedy in their drinking water. This disease may come at any time from the first to the twenty-first day. It appears in the form of a white discharge which hardens and closes the vent. When the disease has gone this far, it is necessary to soften the substance with oil and remove it in order to save the chick. There will be no need of this if remedies are used from the first day. Although thousands and thousands of young chicks and adult fowls die each year from various diseases, our experience covers only what has already been stated ; and S3 we do not feel competent to write of diseases of which we have no practical knowledge. Innumerable books are printed, dealing with this subject, and it would be wise for the beginner to possess one, written by some reliable au- thority, so that in case any trouble appeared among the fowls, the proper remedies would be on hand. We used Conkey's Poultry Tonic, Conkey's Lice Pow- der, Conkey's Head Lice Ointment and Conkey's White Diarrhoea Remedy. We chanced to buy these compounds when we first had need for supplies of this nature and as they proved entirely satisfactory, we have continued to use them in our poultry work. Water, Grit and Charcoal. Water, fresh and clean, should be supplied several times daily. In winter it should be warm, as it helps to warm the fowls and does not freeze so readily. The vessel holding the water should be constructed so that the fowls can not spill it or make it unfit for use by walking in it. Several devices, more or less ingenious, can be bought at supply houses. A small trough of sheet metal or a quart can, slightly flattened and fastened to the side of the pen, will answer the purpose very well. Grit can be bought at very small cost ; a supply suffi- cient for a flock of nine fowls for several weeks should cost fifteen or twenty cents. If supply houses are not handy, it can be manufactured at home. Gravel, stone, and clam or oyster shells should be crushed to the size of small peas and plentifully scattered in the pens where the fowls can find it. A better plan is to keep it before them in hop- pers ; it is then possible to see that they are always well supplied. It is important that both the stone and shell grit are furnished the fowls. Both are necessary — one for the digestive organs, the other for shell-making material. Crushed charcoal is a necessity in the poultry pen. It is one of the best known preventives of bowel trouble The cost is trivial ; a few cents worth will last for many days. 54 In order to economize space in the pens, we kept the charcoal, crushed stone, and crushed shell in one hopper which was divided into three compartments. Food Supply. To get the best results from the poultry, they must be kept in the best possible state of health and energy, and this depends greatly upon the quality of the food given to them. It is quite possible to keep the fowls alive and per- haps gather a few eggs now and then by feeding them only one or two varieties of grain. Where the object is to keep them at the top notch limit of productiveness, it is imperative that the food supply be as varied as pos- sible. For this reason, we suggest that the beginner lay in a stock of the following supplies : Wheat bran, wheat, oats, barley, millet, corn chops, corn meal, ground oats, buckwheat, Kaffir corn, alfalfa, and clover. The quantity to buy depends upon the size of the purse. If the beginner buys the grain in small quantities, as is too often the case, the profits at the end of the year will be very small indeed. The most economical way would be to get 100 pounds of each item. The money ex- pended would then go many times farther than would be the case if the food was bought in small quantities. If this expenditure is out of the question, we would get, say fifty cents worth of each item. This would total an outlay of $6, for supplies which should last for several months, with economical feeding. The Morning Meal. For the first meal in the day, the fowls should be given one of the following mixtures : Wheat and oats; Wheat and barley; Wheat and millet; Wheat and corn chops; Wheat and Kaffir corn; Wheat and buckwheat. Vary the program each day. If the fowls seem to tire of a certain grain, discontinue it for several days and they will soon crave it. 55 The grain must be raked or spaded into the soil to make the birds work for it. If this is not done, the fowls will soon become fat and lazy and the egg yield will suffer in consequence. As to the amount to be fed at one time, that depends entirely upon the appetites of the fowls. It is better to under-feed than to over-feed, especially in the morning. Watch the flock eat, to determine the proper amount of their rations. If considerable grain is left not eaten, it shows over-feeding, and the supply should be cut down in proportion. Two, or possibly three ordinary tea- cups full should suffice for a flock of nine fowls. Green Food. Several hours after the morning meal, the flock should be given their daily supply of green food. In summer, this is accomplished by moving the pen to the right loca- tion, providing grass or clover has been sowed for this purpose; if this has not been done, sprouted oats may be fed ; freshly cut lawn trimmings can also be substituted for the sprouted oats. When the pen is detached from the coop, it is also necessary to remove the nests and to hang them in the pen ; otherwise, the hens may form the habit of laying their eggs on the ground. Mash Food. Shortly after midday, the flock should be given a mash food. The largest portion of the mash should be com- posed of wheat bran ; to which may be added ground oats, corn meal or middlings, table scraps, lean meat, and steamed alfalfa or clover ; a little salt and pepper should be added for seasoning, about as much as would be used for seasoning table victuals. The following mixtures will give some idea of the pro- portions to be used in preparing the mash : (1) Wheat bran 2 parts Corn meal 1 part Table scraps 1 part (2) Wheat bran 2 parts Ground oats 1 part Table scraps 1 part 56 (3) Wheat bran 2 parts Middlings 1 part Steamed alfalfa 1 part (4) Wheat bran 2 parts Ground oats 1 part Steamed clover 1 part About one-eighth part lean meat scraps may be added to any of the mash foods, with good results. Only lean meat should be used, and some judgment must be exercised in feeding it; too much will cause bowel trouble in the fowls. Vary the mash mixtures from day to day. If the fowls are given the same mash food for four or five successive days, they tire of it, and will not eat as much as they other- wise would. This will cause a loss instead of a saving; for, while it is poor policy to over-feed the fowls, it is yet neces- sary that they consume a certain amount of food each day, to make up for the drain upon their systems caused by pro- ducing eggs. The average laying hen requires from five to six ounces of food each day to keep her in good, condition. The mash food should be fed in hoppers ; and in quan- tity should not be more than the fowls can clean up in a few minutes. Mash food should not be allowed to stand for any length of time, as it becomes sour and is not fit for the fowls to eat. The Evening Meal. Late in the afternoon, the pen should be returned to the coop, and the fowls fed the last meal for the day; the largest portion of this should be corn chops, but some other grain can be mixed with this, usually oats in summer and buckwheat in winter. The fowls should be given a good meal of this grain, to sustain them through the long night. Before leaving the flock for the night, the covers of the pen should be partly let down, to keep the floor dry in case of rain. The hinged roof of the coop should also be partly closed, even in the summer weather, to prevent 57 water from dripping on the fowls. The open front allows plenty of ventilation during the hottest summer weather. The curtain at the front of the coop should never be let down except when it is severely cold, and then only after the fowls have gone to roost. In windy, blustering weather the hinged roof should be kept closed to prevent drafts. Broody Hens. Broody hens can usually be broken of the habit by keeping them in a strange coop for several days. As the time required for the breaking process means the loss of a •week or more, it is more profitable to give them a nest of eggs, so that their time will be usefully employed. To be prepared for the broody fowls, it is best to have on hand several of the small chick pens and coops described in another part of this book. For a flock of eight hens, four of these pens would be necessary, each pen accommo- dating twenty to twenty-four chicks, depending upon the number of eggs hatched. Eggs for Hatching. In choosing the eggs for the setting hens, three things should be taken into consideration, namely: The fertility, the source, and the size and shape of the egg. The fertility depends upon the number of hens al- lowed with the male bird, and upon the system of feeding. If the flock consists of eight hens and one male bird and the feeding has been followed as suggested, from 90 to 100 per cent of the eggs should be fertile. To know the source of the eggs to be hatched, it would be a good plan to fasten a leg band to each of the hens, with a number or figure on it that could be easily distin- guished, and to mark the eggs, as soon as they are layed, with a corresponding number or figure. In this manner it is possible to determine which are the best laying hens and to keep their eggs for hatching purposes. The eggs selected should be of uniform size, as far as possible, and of regular shape. Eggs that are much larger 58 or smaller than normal should not be used for hatching. When saving eggs for hatching purposes they should be kept in a cool place, preferably in a cellar, where the tem- perature registers about 50 degrees above zero. Incuba- tion starts at 80 degrees; the germ dies at the freezing temperature ; it is, therefore, best to keep the eggs in a tem- perature between the two extremes. Twelve eggs under each hen will hatch the best per- centage of chicks. It is possible to place fifteen or sixteen eggs under a hen, but it generally results in a poor hatch. An ordinary sized hen cannot properly cover that many eggs and a number of them become chilled during incuba- tion, resulting in weakened vitality and short lived chicks. If the eggs are not clean, they should be washed by rubbing them with a clean cloth moistened in clean, warm water. Soapy or greasy water should never be used in cleaning eggs. The nest should be made of clean straw or hay, and slightly concave, so that the eggs, when moved, will roll toward the center. Both the nest and the hen should be treated with insect powder before the eggs are placed. If the hen is a good setter, it is best not to disturb her in any way except to give her food and water every day. When the Chicks Are Hatched. Remove shells and unhatched eggs from the nest 24 hours after the first chick is hatched ; but while doing this, do not over-excite the mother hen or she may injure some of the chicks by trampling them. It is best to lift her bodily from the nest and to place her in the chick pen until the cleaning operation is over. No food should be given to the chicks for the first 36 hours. Nature has provided them with sufficient nourish- ment for this length of time; all they require is rest and quiet and time to gain strength. Their first food should be some good quality of "Chick Food," which can be ob- tained at any supply house. When a number of chicks are to be hatched during the season, it is economy to buy this 59 in 100 pound sacks, which cost about $2.50. One sack should last 75 or 100 chicks until they are old enough for the coarser grain. We used Cypher's Chick Food exclusively for our small chicks, and recommend it to the beginner. We also used Cypher's "No-Di," a charcoal preparation, to prevent diarrhoea. This was kept before them in hoppers at all times and did much to keep the chicks in good condition. Sand and small grit should be mixed with the soil in the pens, to provide the little fellows with material to aid in digesting their food. Fresh water should be given to the chicks from the first day in non-spillable vessels, so that they cannot be- come wet and chilled. Wheat bran should be kept before the chicks after the third day. After the first week, the pens should be moved daily, so that the chicks can pick up what green food they require. In caring for the little chicks, it is important to bear these facts in mind : Do not overfeed ; feed little and often ; it is better to give them a little food every two hours than a larger amount every four hours. Induce exercise, make the chicks scratch for the grain. When the chicks are four weeks old, they are large enough to care for themselves, and the mother hen should be taken from the pen. If a large number of chicks are on hand, it is also time to separate, and fatten the fowls in- tended for market. Market Fowls. In order to fatten the market birds quickly, they should be fed plenty of rich mash food. To prevent trouble, it is best not to feed too heavily for the first few days, or until the fowls become accustomed to it. One moderate mash feed per day should be given during the fourth week and the number gradually increased until the tenth week, when they should be fed the mash four or five times each day. It is also advisable to alter the ingredients of the mash each week, and to give a larger proportion of the more fat- tening elements as the chicks grow older. 60 The following table should give the reader an idea of the proportions to use in making the mash food : Fourth and Fifth Weeks Wheat bran 4 parts Corn meal 5 parts Ground oats 6 parts Sixth Week Wheat bran 4 parts Corn meal 6 parts Ground oats 6 parts Seventh Week Wheat bran 4 parts Corn meal 7 parts Ground oats 6 parts Eighth Week Wheat bran 4 parts Corn meal 7 parts Ground oats 5 parts Ninth Week Wheat bran 3 parts Corn meal 8 parts Ground oats 3 parts Tenth Week Wheat bran 3 parts Corn meal 8 parts Ground oats 3 parts (Only oats without hulls should be used.) 6 parts steamed clover or alfalfa can be added to any of the above mash foods. Commencing with the fourth week, one moderate mash feed should be fed each day ; the fifth week, two ; the sixth week, three ; the seventh and eighth weeks, four ; the ninth and tenth weeks, five per day. The mash should be moistened with water, or milk if possible, until it is just crumbly, and a little salt added for seasoning. The quantity to be fed at a time must be found from actual experience. The fowls should be given just enough so that they will be hungry at the next meal. Be- tween the mash feeds, the fowls should be given a small 61 amount of grain to induce exercise, and green food should also be fed every day. A small amount of lean meat sev- eral times weekly will aid materially in fattening the birds. When the young fowls are kept on this diet for sev- eral weeks and not allowed to run about on range, their flesh becomes remarkably tender and sweet and they are incomparably better for the table than the ordinary fowls bought at the market. Chicks for Maturity. When the chicks are to be raised to maturity, the small grain food should be continued until the ninth or tenth week. At that age they are large enough for the coarser grain and should be fed very much the same as the adult fowls. It will help considerably if they are fed one mash food daily ; the mash to consist of wheat bran 1 part, corn meal 1 part, ground oats 1 part, and 2 parts steamed alfalfa, with salt and pepper added for seasoning. Meat scraps should be fed every day or at least sev- eral times a week. A daily supply of some sort of green food is a necessity, and should not be overlooked. A coarser grade of grit should be served when the large grain takes the place of the small chick food. Chicks for maturity should not be given the rich food, nor should there be any attempt to force their growth as in the case of the market fowls. Their food should be chosen with the view to build up the young bird in bone, muscle and feather, and not fat. Bear in mind that it is not only what you feed that determines success ; how much to feed and how often are equally important. The chicks should not be over-crowded. A 3 by 6 pen allows ample room for twenty or twenty-five small chicks ; but as the fowls grow larger, more space is required, or they will not do well. As they near maturity, not more than six or eight fowls should be kept in a pen of this size. By the time the fowls reach maturity, they should be provided with a large colony coop. With well-bred stock to start with, the beginner can realize handsome profits by raising the chicks to maturity 62 and demanding good prices for them. There is always a ready market for well-bred birds and good prices prevail. Another item that should not be lost sight of is the profit to be made from the sale of setting eggs. The de- mand is generally greater than the supply during spring and early summer, with prices anywhere from $1.00 to $5.00 per setting, depending upon the quality of the stock. By keeping the hens in proper condition for laying, the beginner should be able to pick up many dollars and still have plenty of eggs left for personal use. To the beginner, the chief objection to raising poultry in a crowded city would probably be lack of space. This should not prevent any ambitious person from making a start. It is not necessary to have an acre of ground. A flock of nine fowls can be kept very nicely in a small back yard, and will prove the best sort of an investment, if proper care is given the birds. It should be made a case of quality and not quantity. We do not assure our readers that they can make a grand success of poultry keeping. That would be foolish, inasmuch as success depends entirely upon their own ef- forts. There is no reason, however, why an ordinary per- son cannot duplicate or improve upon our success, by taking advantage of the practical information contained in this book. A clear profit of more than $12.00 a year for each hen should help considerably to solve the "high cost of living" problem for any wage earner. 63