nii'PiiPii, C5) B3G Cornell University Library QL 63.B36 Practical taxidermy, and home decoration 3 1924 002 801 979 ■^m lark ?tatc CfJoUcse of ^Agriculture Slibtar^ 1 DATE DUE ^k^i^mm^T^ 1 ^m^ m^ lntfirlih Inai 1 T^^^"5?!^(^ ^f^*m f 1 DEMCO 38-297 \B Cornell University B Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002801979 n Practical Taxidermy, ASD HOME DECORATION; TOGETHEE WITH GEJJEEAL INFORMATION FOR SPORTSMEN. BY JOSEPH H. BATTY, TAXIDBBIUBT FOE THB HAYDEN EXPEDITION, AND OTHBB GOVERNMENT fiUKTKlS AND UANT OF THE LEADXNd GOLLEOES AND MUSEUMS IN THE UNITED STATEB AUTHOE OF '* HOW TO HUNT AND TEAP." ETC., ETC. 126 ILLIJSrBATIOITS. NEW YORK:. OEANGE JUDD COMPANY, 1913 Bnterefl. according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by tht OKANGB JUDU COMPANi', ill the Office ol the Librarian of Congress, at Waslilnj^ton. Printed in U. S. A. m PROF. B. H0R8F0RD, MY EARLY INSTRUCTOn IN TAXIDBRMJ, AND SYMPATHETIC FRIEND IN BOrnOOD, THIS BOOK 13 9BATEFULLY DEDIOATBD. TBE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. PKACTICAL TAXIDERMY. Preface 1 Publishers' Announcement 8 Chaptee I. Outfitting 15 Chapter II. Camping S3 Chaptee III. Travelling 30 Chapteb IV. Trapping 33 Chapteb V. GuD3 and Cases for Collecting 43 Chapter TI. Care of Guns 50 Chapter Vll. Collecting Animals 53 Chapter VIII. Preparing Animals' Skins for Mounting 59 Chapter IX. To Preserve a Buck's Head for Mounting 63 Chapter X. Mounting Animals 76 Chapter XI. Preparing and Mounting Skeletons 86 Chapter XH. Collecting Birds 9i Chapter XIII. Preparing Bird Skins for Mounting 9& Chapter XIV. Mounting Birds with Closed Wings 103 Chapter XV. Mounting Birds with Spread Wings 10? Chapter XVI. Mounting Dry Bird Skins 109 Chapter XVII. Medallion Heads 113 Chapter XVIII. Mounting Specimens on Shields ....113 Chapter XIX. Dressing Bird Skins 117 VII Till CONTENTS. Chaftek XX. Collecting and Preparing Birds' £ggs 119 Chaptbk XXI. Collecting, Frepanng, and Preserving Reptiles 133 Chapteb.XXU. Fish, and How to Mount Them 137 Chapter XXin. Crustaceans and Other Marine Animals 135 Chapter XXIV. Collecting and Hatching Chrysalids. — Collecting, Preserving, Mount- ing, and Arranging Moths, Butterflies, and Insects 139 Chapter XXV. Grouping 147 Chapter XXVI. Care of Specimens, Chests, Cabinets, Cases, and Stands 151 Chapter XXVII. Making Cases 154 Chapter XXVIII. Hints on Making Rock-work 157 Chapter XXIX. Papering and Tinting Cases ...160 Chapter XXX. Modelling, Casting, and Carving 166 Chapter XXXI. Useful Ornaments from Antlers and Feet 170 Chapter XXXn. Recipes 173 HOME DECORATION. Chapter I. Decorating with Natural Objects 177 Chapter II. Ferns 183 Chapter III. Autumn Leaves. 187 Chapter IV. Grasses 191 Chapter V. Feather Work 195 Chapter VI. Fans and Fire-Sereens 198 Chapter VIL Ornamental Crosses 300 ILLUSTEATIONS. Adder and Battlesnake .133 Albatrosses, Group of 118 AmmuuiLion Case for Rifle 48 Ammunition Case for Shot-Gun 49 Antlers Properly Mounted , 74 Artiflcial Backbone TO Baseboard for Long Neck ,... 70 Baseboard for Short Neck 70 Basket Bracket of Grasses 193 Blow-Pipe and Egg-Drill 121 Body and Neck thowius; wires. ...105 Bones, Fastening Leg 89 Bones, Fastening Small 89 Boots, Laced Huiitiug 17 Bracket, Bird-Nest 177 Bracket, Perns on Fungus 184 Bracket, Haliotis 180 Bracket, Moth 181 Bracket, Shell... 179 Bracket with Autumn Leaves 189 Bruin at Bay 39 Bugs, Tumble 146 Camp, An Old Colorado 27 Camp Baker Closed 19 Camp Baker Open 19 Camping 29 Camp in the Sierra Madre 23 Camp Scene in Florida 25 Camp Stove Packed HO Camp Stove Unpacked 20 Canvas Gun-Cover 47 CartridgeBag 21 Cartridge for Hammerless Rifle 44 Cartridge for Rifle, Model '76 43 Cartridge Vest B7 Cast Ready for Covering 71 Collecting Animals 53 Cover of Case Showing Parts 155 Crammer, End of 12 Deer and Fox 165 Divers and Grebes, Group of 115 Drying Board 101 Ducks, Hunting 49 Eagle on Cliff 108 Egg of the Baltimore Oriole 18t Elk, Group of ,. 90 Elk, Stricken 156 Feather for Making Mats. . . .' 191 Feather for TrimmingLambrequins. 197 Feather for Trimming Cushions, . . . 196 Feather Ornaments 199 Feathers for Trimming 195 Ferns in Rocks 186 Ferns, Group of Native ... 183 Field Mice, A Group of 149 Fire-Lighting, or " Jacking" Ducks 97 Fish Properly Mounted 129 Fish, Star 136 FoxinaTrap 41 Fox Stalking Ducks 175 Fox Watching Rabbit 172 Frame for Large Net 144 Frog 126 Frontispiece 3 Grebe Correctly Mounted 103 Grouse, Hunting 52 Gun, Improved Baker 45 Gun-Case, Victoria 47 Gun-Sling for Saddle 51 Hadrosaurus, Skeleton of the 87 Hare, Little Chief 55 Hawks Properly Mounted 107 Head of Downy Woodpecker 112 Head of Muskel longe Moun ted ..... 133 Hermit Crab in Sea-Shell 138 Humming Bird Ill Humming Bird's Nest 200 Legging, Long Canvas 18 Legging, Short Canvas 18 Lynx 67 Manner of Wiring Small Animals. 82 Medallion. Wild Goose Head 112 Molds tor Casting Heads 66 Moth, Promethia 140 Moth Prqperly Mounted 145 Nautilus Vase 178 Neckboard 69 Nest of Baltimore Oriole 130 ILLTJSTKATIONS. Net, Small 143 Ornithological Parts of a'Bird 176 Patterns for Shields 113 Peccaries 83 Peregrine,Fa1con,and Mallard Dack 93 Piu-Tail Duck Properly Mounted... 104 Portrait of Author 13 Position of Irons in a Large Animal. 79 Barn's Head 169 Beloader 43 Rifle, Winchester Improved 42 Rocky Mountains, Travellingin the 30 Seals, Common or Harbor 77 Sea-Shell 183 Sea-Urchin 135 Shell.Metal 44 Shell, Paper 44 Shoe, Patent Hunting. 16 Shrews, A Group of 61 Skin Properly Made 100 Skin Ready for Re-tnming 103 Snow Scene.. 163 Spray of Hickory Leaves 187 Spruce Grouse, Group of 148 Trapping a Fox 35 Trap, Ground 84 Water Ouzels 93 Woodcock on Shield 114 Yacht, Travelling by SS PUBLISHEES' ANNOUNCEMENT. Joseph H. Battt, the author of this volume, has de- voted sixteen years of active life to the work of collecting and preserving animals, birds, fishes, etc. He was the Official Taxidermist of the Northern Boundary Survey, and also of the United States Geological Survey, under" Dr. Hayden — generally known as the Hayden Expedi- tion. Mr. Batty has, likewise, been for many years Tax- idermist for several of our leading Universities, Colleges, Museums, and Public Parks. His work entitled, " How to Hunt and Trap," pnb- (ished some eighteen months since, has received the warmest encomiums from recognized authorities, and from both the American and the European press. We anticipate a still more flattering reception for this vol- ume, which is the result of long experience and practice, and conveys a vast amount of information on the subjects treated, not hitherto embodied in book form. There is 1(0 similar work in existence. While Coues and Maynard have devoted some space in their writings to Taxidermy, they have merely touched upon branches which are fully treated in this book. The appreciation and love of "Home Decoration" increase with the growing taste and culture of the American people. Our author's chapters upon this sub' ject are very timely, and will be keenly appreciatedj especially by ladies. XI PREFACE. Good books on Taxidermy are not so common that I need hesitate to venture into print with a few directions of my own, written from practice and experience ; and in so doing I may remark that, with careful observance of instructions given, the student can make the art both a profitable and a delightful recreation. The mere skinning and stuffing of a specimen is but a small portion of the Taxidsrmist's real work or pleasure. The hand must be turned to the making of cases, and the eye trained to the* blending of colors. Taste must be cultivated and exhibited in modelling and molding, and Nature's beauties should be imitated as closely as pos- sible. Artificial rocks can be made to look as natural as the moss-grown specimens in the woods, and trees can be formed as graceful as those in their native forests. With the growing fondness for Taxidermy, many la- dies are endeavoring to master the art, and in the variety of work necessary to perfect it, feminine taste and skill can be brought effectively into play. The collector can learn to mount his own specimens, the schoolboy his game, and in the general household, a buck's head in the dining-room, or a bright oriole in the parlor, presents a pleasing contrast to other ornaments. J. H. B. ^u. 1 vii,^' ODB AUTHOB W COSTUME, XIII PEAOTIOAL TAXIDERMY. C HAP T E R I. OUTFITTING. !N"aturalists, as a rule, are hard workers, and in their enthusiasm often fail to make suitable preparations for an extended tour. In obtaining full collections, one can have but little choice of climate or surface, and as there is much to tax the strength, even under favorable circumstances, clothing, bedding, and food, should be most carefully looked after. Heavy, soft under-clothing, and thick -woollen overshirts are essential to comfort, and the buckskin shirt and breeches are far preferable to the skirted coat or woollen pants. A soldier's " caped " overcoat is desirable when hunting at night, and it provides a warm coverlet when bedding is scanty. Thick woollen mittens worn over woollen gloves make the warmest and lightest covering for the hands, though buckskin gloves can be worn in chopping, as the exercise produces circulation. In wear- ing mittens in hunting, the forefinger should have a stall, to facilitate the use of the trigger. In a dry country, or at the north in winter, moccasins or larigans (shoe-packs) should be worn on the feet. Blanket footings wrapped over woollen socks, together with a little hay in the bottom of shoes, will prevent bruises, and in the severest weather protect the feet from frost. Id 16 PEACTIOAL TAXIDERMY. In a rocky or damp country, heavy shoes or boots are required, and in mountainous regions those studded with iron nails. The Improved Patent Shoe for sportsmen's use is the best.* It holds the foot firmly by the self-adjust- ing straps over the instep and around the ankle, which is a very quick and convenient mode of fastening. This shoe is made of brown and black Bismarck grain leather, and is water-tight to the top. For rough work, wet travel- linsr, or when in the saddle, PATENT HUNTING SHOE. , , , , , -r^ i- i laced boots of linglish grain leather are decidedly the most serviceable and comfort- able. The nails with which they are studded prevent slipping, and the strap at the top and laces over the in- step keep the leg of the boot from dropping. The lacing also causes the boots to fit so snugly that the legs can not settle into large folds and chafe the ankle, and the heel does not slip and blister the skin. If by accident one gets in water over the tops, these boots can be easily loosened at the ankle and taken off, while the ordinary boot would be removed with great difficulty. Leggings of canvas are light, and will do good service, particularly in wet grass, high weeds, and thick bushes. While being serviceable in protecting the limbs, they likewise give elasticity to the hunter's step, and do not annoyingly catch on twigs, as do breeches. One can with them noiselessly thread his way through the woods when still hunting, and they are of excellent service when moc- casins or shoe-packs are worn. •Any flirther information desired concerning ttiis slioe. or other sportsman's accoutrements, gnns, etc., alluded to in this rolqme, cau be obtained by writing (o the Fabllsher^ OUTFITTING. 17 Long leggings are most comfortable for winter use. When wearing short ones, snow gets in at the tops, melts, and often chills the hunter when not exercising. Short leggings are desirable for summer and fall use, especially LACED HUNTIirG BOOTS. on the plains. White ones worn in snow, and brown ones on. bare ground, are least conspicuous. Leggings are made with a variety of fastenings, being buckled, buttoned, laced, and tied. Laced leggings are least troublesome, and can always be kept tight, while other fastenings often become stretched and loose. Heavy leather leggings, as a rule, are hot, uncomfortable, and burdensome. If leg coverings of leather are preferred, it is best to wear high top-boots. Rubber apparel is bur- '18 PEACTICAL TAXIDERMY. densome, generally not conducive to health, and should be worn only for wading and fording, or on rainy days. A light slouched hat should be worn in the summer sun, and a warm skull cap in the winter. Four long SHOBT CANVAS LEGGING. heavy California blankets should be taken for bed- ding, together with a small pillow and large poncho or a piece of canvas. The pon- cho should be laid under the bedding, in camp, and used for a wrapper in travelling. All the bedding should be rolled in a conveuient pack, and bound together with three soft leather straps. If of extra length, the latter will be found useful in hang- ing or packing game, making rafts, slinging guns, etc. As large quantities of provisions as can be easily trans- ported should be taken, and the variety should consist of flour, grits, rice, hominy, bacon, dried fruits, tea, coffee. LONG CANVAS LBGOraG. OUTFITTING, 19 sugar, condensed milk, baking powder, salt, pepper, and a keg of molasses or syrup. The traveller usually finds meat in the woods, and with rifle, shot-gun, and traps, can surely secure it. Sundries, such as sperm candles, needles, pins, thread, soap, tooth-brush, comb, and towels, are needed, and horse-hair and wire should be taken for snares. An axe, hatchet, aud whetstone will be constantly used, and a i. OAMF ;, CLOSED. water-proof match-box, or a flint and steel, is a necessity. One may meet with an accident, or find himself " under the weather," and as physicians are generally not to be had in camp life, court plaster^ cathartic pills, quinine, and Dover's powders should always be kept about the tjerson or in camp. The cooking utensils should consist of a camp baker, OAMP BAKER, OPEN. t'U cups, plates, knives, forks, spoons, frying pan, and camp kettles, and two iron rods to make stands in the 20 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. fire. The folding camp baker is a convenient article for use. To do good service, it must be kept clean and bright. The new folding rubber pail will likewise be found useful, especially in cold weather. The collector's kit for preparing and preserving speci- mens, is simple, and a small chest will compactly carry it. A set of instruments consists of a large and small scalpel or cartilage knife, crooked scissors, small tweezers, long and short forceps, brain spoon, needles and thread, and a pair of strong cutting-forceps to facilitate the removal OAMP STOVE, FACEBD. CAMP STOVB, UNPAOKBD of the contents of the crania. The necessary preserva- tives are : dry arsenic for birds, and saltpetre, salt, and alum, for mammals, though in warm weather, diluted car- bolic acid is quick in action and should be used to prevent decomposition. Ordinarily, a mixture of two parts alum and one part salt, is all that is necessary for mammals. Other materials are, plaster for drying the plumage of soil- ed birds, corn-meal to facilitate skinning, cotton, tow, ex- celsior, sea-grass, or moss, for stuflSng, and sheet-cotton to split and use for wrappers. A light, flat-topped trunk, OUTFITTING. 2X containing thin wooden trays, will hold the outfit and many small specimens. For special trips where transpor- tation is available, a light chest, bound with thin iron, is preferable. When camping for a season, a camp-stoTe is really nee- essary, and affords great comfort. One can be secured with full variety of utensils, weighing but 25 lbs., and costing but a moderate sum. Guns, ammunition, and traps, should be selected accord- ing to the game to be sought for. A suitable selection of shot should also be made, though the collector needs, usually, Nos. 4, 8, 10, and 13. For ordinary trapping, the 0, 1, and 3 traps are used ; but in a country where large animals abound, larger traps will be needed. A full set of collector's instruments is very essential to the naturalist's outfit, also materials and preservatives for preparing specimens, which will be treated of hereafter. Articles liable to be lost by the bursting of wrappers, should be placed in small canvas bags, all of which should be enclosed in a larger one ; they can thus be easily packed and handled. A few bot- tles of strychnine will be found useful in poisoning ani- mals. XX PBACTICAL TAXIDEEMY. CHAPTER II. CAMPING. The comfort whicli the veteran camper takes in his abode in the woods, strongly contrasts with the incon- veniences experienced by the amateur. The former quietly " turns out " at daylight, knowing just where to put his hand on a few dry twigs or a little birch bark with which to start the fire, and in a few min- utes the coffee-pot boils, and venison steaks or fish are broiling over the fire. But little wood is employed, yet the fire is compact and cooks quickly and "to a turn." In the meantime, bedding has been rolled up, rifle clean- ed, cartridges and traps selected, and route laid out. As the last mouthful of breakfast disappears, the hunter puts on his belt, reaches for his rifle, and then starts off sanguine of a good day's sport. The amateur " turns out " late when the flies will allow him to sleep no longer, and goes limping down to the brook for a pail of water. He then calls for assistance to make a fire, which, when made, is large enough to roast an ox, and so hot that he cannot approach it. He stands around hungry and impatient until he has a bed of coals, then makes preparations to cook. He finds himself com- pelled to splice a pole to the frying-pan, as the fire is still too hot to approach, and he often places the coffee-kettle on a stick that burns through and dumps the contents on the fire. While looking about with consternation, the meat bums, and one misfortune after another follows. By the time breakfast is over, the sun is high in the heavens, the deer have sought their beds, the fish have ceased to bite, and the best of the day is gone. On a cold rainy morning, his troubles increase, but if diflSeulties are encountered with patience and perseverance, city "rusf OAMPUfTG. 25 wears off, and he learns to feel at home in the ■woods, and becomes as jolly as his comrades. An \ tent without a stove is large enough for four men, and can be used until snow flies. If a camp-stove is used, it will occupy one side of the tent, and then there will only be room for two to sleep comfortably. In winter, a tent should be staked down firmly to the ground under the south side of a hill, but not so tightly that the first rainy night the canvas will contract and draw the pins. When this occurs, the tent falls, the stove is over- turned, knocking down guns and making general disor- A OAMP SCENE IN PLOKIDA. der. A knoll in a tamarack swamp makes a good warm site for a camp, as it is well protected on every side. The iron pins from the upright poles should go through the ridge-pole and canvas about two inches, and guy ropes be fastened with a clove or double hitch at both ends. When tent-poles are stiffened in this manner, guns can be slung from the top of the tent, and pins put in the standard poles, on which clothing can be hung. The stove should be set up on clay, or earth and stones, 2 136 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMT. in an inclosure made of four small logs, half jointed and pegged together at their ends. Tliis will prevent bedding from being burned, and facilitate cooking. The tent should be ditched until snow comes, when it will freeze in for the winter. The bottom of the tent should be covered with straw if obtainable, or rushes, oak leaves, or spruce boughs. Hemlock branches will do for a few nights, but they soon lose their leaves and elasticity. When sleeping in the open air with scant bedding, keep your head under the blankets, and the warmth of your breath will be almost equal to that of another blanket. If one acquires the habit of sleeping face downward, he will, according to my experience, rest warmer than when lying on the side or back, and is less liable to take cold. Most of the bedding should be on the ground under the sleeper, to keep the dampness from the body. Never sleep m your clothing in a cabin or in the open air in mild weath- er, when there is plenty of bedding, as you rest wai'mer and more comfortably without it. When "roughing it," lie with the head to the wind, fold the blankets under the feet, and wrap them as close- ly to the body as possible. With two blankets and a buf- falo robe, the hunter can sleep warm enough in a snow- drift, with the thermometer below zero. If convenient, fell white pine, spruce, or tamarack trees on the north side of the tent, to break the wind and prevent the snow from drifting about it. When a cabin is constructed, and a fire place used, much wood is consumed, and a large clearing will ba made by spring. It will require nearly a cord of wood every twenty-four hours to heat a cabin in the north woods, and in the latter part of winter logs often have t& be carried from a distance through deep snow and over tangled limbs. For these reasons the cabin should be bunt where wood is abundant, and, if possible, in a grove of white birches. They make the best of fire-wood whejf CAMPING. 3ft green, and when fros'^d, a single stroke of the axe will lay a large log open. Wood can be economized by using maple sticks fo^ side logs of the fire, as they burn slowly, one pair lasting all night. They should be cut long, and moTed up as the ends burn away. Water is one of the greatest necessities in camp, and in a cold country, springs and small streams are not always to be depended upon in winter. A camp should be lo- cated near a large body of water, where it can be obtained by cutting through the ice. A volume of instructions might be written about camping, but I have only given points learned by stern experience, which, if made use of, will prevent much hardship. Forethought and self-reli- ance are the " best holds " of the camper, and experience the best teacher. 30 PBACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. CHAPTEE in. TRAVEIJJNG. The hunter should as- certain as much as pos- sible about the country he intends hunting, and travel over it according to its features. To hunt in the Rocky j i« Mountains, medium- sized, sharp shod mules should be used, and apparahoes for pack animals. Pack Baddies rock about and bruise the animals' backs when TEAVELLING. 31 heavily loaded. The bruises turn into sores, and useless animals is the result. Wagons should he employed on the plains, as the trans- portation they afford will admit of many useful articles' being taken along that could not be packed on the backs of mules. For coasting, a small cat-boat with cabin, and table leaves (sunken in the sides of the trunk) is convenient in making " short runs," though a sloop-yacht, with jib and top-sail, is better for rough weather and winter work. The former is readily managed, and will run close to the wind, though a rough sea shakes the wind out of her sail, and breaks her headway, when a sloop-yacht would plow through a heavy sea. For traversing lakes and ascending rivers, the birch canoe and Bond's patent section boat are the best. There is no easier mode of travel than the well trimmed canoe afEords. The "capacity" of a birch canoe is great ; the average sized one carries two men and outfits. A long, well built canoe should be used in open waters. Those made by the Passamaquoddy and Mick Mack Indians are the best, though the Chippewas construct good ones. I have sailed in a stiff breeaAwith a Passamaquoddy canoe ten miles from land wit^W^D men and four large seals. A canoe is only w^^ail before the wind. Rafts are easily^ld quickly made, and often serve the voyager well ; dead oottonwood and white pine logs make the most buoyant ones. A small raft will carry a heavy load, and is rapidly "poled" over shallow water with hard bottom. It can be paddled over large lakes and across tranquil rivers on a still day. Eafts are the most useful in descending rivers, and should be made and trimmed with care when shooting rapids. It will often pay the hunter, when there are no paths leading to his hunting-ground, to strike the head of a river where roads abound, and raft his outfit down to a 32 PEACTICAIi TAXIDEKMT. desired location. Circumstances have been such that I have found it necessary to cook on a raft having three men, their outfits, and a dog. Of course all this was in- iconvenient, but cue is glad of ?jiy make-shift in an emer- gency. When going a long distance to a seaport, send all freight by a sailing-vessel, as it is the cheapest transpor- tation. Outfits should be forwarded in advance of a party so they will have ample time to reach their des- tination before wanted. TBAPPIirO. 33 CHAPTER IV. TRAPPrNG. Nothing is called more effectively into use in a game country than a good set of traps. The various birds of prey and animals taken by them far out-number those brought down by shot-gun or rifle, and the sproimens are in much better condition for mounting than when perforated with shot. Many noctural animals can be trapped when it would be almost impossible to shoot them, as they rarely ven- ture in open places during the day. The wolf, fox, lynx, wild-cat, raccoon, skunk, opossum, mink, and weasel, are of this class. A naturalist or hunter should carry a few small steel traps in his belt, and set them whenever he may come upon fresh "sign." The movements of animals can never be anticipated, and often in the delay of returning to camp for traps, they will have changed th|ir quarters. A successful trapper sets his tr aps with the earliest " sug- gestions " of game, p^^^j^^good stock of bait, regu- larly visits them, ^H^^^^^Bi free from snow. The best time ^^^^^fpRls is alter a light snow, when, from the ^^^^nv to the "antlered buck," all appear to be on tfflS^- Animals have depot camps to which they resort at ir- regular intervals during their peregrinations. When one gains a thorough knowledge of the country, the runways of animals can be marked and traps kept permanently set for miscellaneous game. In winter, protected places should be chosen under the banks of lakes and rivers where the snow will not blow. High winds generally come from one quarter in winter, and traps rarely need shifting. 34 PEACTICAI, TAXIDERMT. "WTien putting out a line of traps, have the trail coTei as little ground as possible, and let them set so that in visiting, tamarack swamps, rush beds, thickets, and sloughs, need not be crossed. Snow falls early when the swamps are but half frozen over, and if the hunter is not cautious, he often breaks through the thin crust of ice under the snow. He is made most uncomfortable, and sometimes, if the weather is cold, a frosted foot is the reiSulS When visiting traps, a straight even trail made in the beginning, saves many steps later in the season. Often when traps are set and trails well broken, fresh GKOnHD TRAP. Sign willfhe seen more re mote from camp. In breaking new trails to the localiti^^^^fc|iiould be taken to make old trails of service and ^^^^^Hfynes as accessible as possible. By taking in f ini^^^^^^^of a country, and njLaking trails in accordance ^^^^^^Harities, much in- convenient travel can be avoided^^^^ In capturing birds, many species can be taken with va- rious traps which are too numerous to illustrate. The ground trap is one of the simplest and best, and, if prop- erly constructed, will be successful in taking many species of small birds, particularly the thrushes and others which feed on the ground. It is usually made with a box ai)out fifteen inches long, ten inches wide, and seven inches deep, ana should be placed in the ground, as seen in the above engraving, A square piece of boaa:d. TKAPPINQ. 37 sheet-iron, or zinc, is used for a lid. One end of it should rest in the bottom of the box at the extreme end, and the other end must rest on the top of the opposite end of the box. A small peg, two and one half inches high, with an even end, is driven into a hole in the bottom of the trap. On this peg rests the flattened end of a short-forked spin- dle, held in position by the weight of the lid which rests on a small wooden pin. The bait is thrown into th^ot- tom of th ! trap, which is sprung by the weight of .ttie' bird as it alights on the spindle. This trap can be hastily made with four bricks buried in or set on the surface of the ground. With it I have trapped many Blue Jays late in the fall and winter, and it is the only trap I hafe known these cunning birds to enter. The ordinary trap-cage is successful, but the usual " market "-cage is not properly made. A trap-cage should be long, with the apartment for the call-bird in the middle, raised in a semi-oval form between the trap- doors, so that the decoy bird is plainly seen from a dis- tance. Snares for trapping birds will be found useful, placed in natural hedges, gateways, and holes in trees. In the breeding season, when aj^HBk eggs is found, the old birds may be taken ^H|^^^^Brse-hair snare, attached to a light rod. Ir^^^^^P^^the collector can obtain a set of eggs andrP^H^nplete by destroying but one nest. Some recommend bird-lime for holding birds, but it is BO glutinous and adheres so tightly to the plumage, that specimens taken with it can seldom be used. Large folding nets, as described in the Chapter on Col- lecting Insects, can be used in catching birds. Instead of employing a gauze covering, a fine meshed net is desirable, and should be used in the spring and fall, when birds are migrating. In these seasons the birds roost in the thick- est cover, particularly in evergreen trees. Two or more 38 PEACTICAL TAXIDEEHT, persons should employ the net at night. One holds it close to the foliage of a tree, while others drive the birds into the net by beating the opposite side. They fly against it and flutter down helplessly into the bag at the bottom, where they can be readily examined and set free, if not the species desired. Long nets can be placed about hedges and bushes, and birds be driven into them, though the number of specimens gathered in some locali- ties will scarcely pay the ornithologist for his trouble. On the sea-shore many species of gulls can be taken with hooks, particularly in winter, when food is scarce. The great black-backed gull, herring, ring-billed, kittiwake, and other shy species of gulls which are difficult to shoot, can be taken as follows : Cut a piece of cork, with triangular sides, five inches long and one inch and a quarter wide. Fasten together by wiring, two large hooks on any side of this cork, so that the shanks extend about three-quarters of an inch beyond the end. Turn them until the points are nearly an inch apart, and weight the lower edge of the cork so that when floated the hooks will remain above water. A strong wire should run fron^he hooks to the other end of the cork and terminat^^^^^yem which a fish-line or cord may be fastened. .^^^^B^^^r small fish should be used as bait, being split o^S^^^^^p belly, and bound on the corl? with white thread, li^^B^wards. The fish should cover the whole cork and its nose fit closely up in the bend of the hooks. The whole" should be weighted so that when floating nothing is visible but the bait and the bare hook-shanks. This should be anchored with a brick or something of about equal weight, so that there will be a few feet of slack line. The hooks will have to be set from a boat or a line attached to the anchor, which can be thrown out from shore. The baits should be set in the "track" of the gulls, which will not hesitate to take them. They never fail to seize the bait against the tide. __J< "i "^ ^ .^ .^ + '^ ^' ''?»15,'W. Ite^ '**f^ ' i \ 1 ' V XT -5- ; V 4 -> ^' "Ml" TBAPPI2!fG. 41 or head first, when they hook themselves w attempting to take in the head of the fish. This is the only successful way to capture se»-gullsj which are even more wary than eagles and hawks. They will not take a bait on a sand bar, though it may have been covered by the tide, and all traces of the trapper rfi- moved. At a glance they can tell a trap on land and pass it by, no matter how tempting the bait may be. All along the Atlantic coast of the ITnited States, and particularly on Long Island, I have taken many gulls in the mannei described, when all other contrivances to capture them had failed. 4S PRACTICAL TAXIDEBMT. ^ CHAPTEK V. GUNS AND CASES FOR COLLECTING. Charges in shooting should m varied, and the amateur, m par ticular, should know that one gun Will not answer a general purpose For large game, when shooting is rapid, the new Improved Winches ter Eepeating Rifle is, I think, a very superior weapon. It shoots a cartndge containing 75 grains of powder, and a hullet of 350 grains. This charge is powerful and suffi- cient to kill the largest American animals, though the weapon is also chambered to shoot more powder and a light express bullet, which charge gives an unusually flat tra- jectory up to 150 yards, making the rifle a desirable one for hunting in cover. In selecting any make of rifles, choose one which can be load- ed, sighted, and discharged in the quickest time possible. Emergen- cies may frequently occur, when the wisdom of this advice will be sig- nally illustrated. Celerity of move- ment IS f , erything with the hun- ter. Reloading metal shells involves but httle trouble and expense Good cartridges and shells are es- sential for close, hard shooting. Rifle cartridges for long range should be evenly loaded with moist, slow powder. The Dead-Shot powder GUNS AND CASES FOR COLLECTING. 43 is as good, if not better, than other brands for rifles. Quick, dry powders are much used for breech-loading sbot-guDs, but I prefer the ducking or medium brands. CASTEIIIGB. It IS all important to supply one self with ammunition which can be relied upon. Both the Winchester and the Union Metallic Cartridge Companies manufacture very Batisfactory ammunition. Be sure to supply yourself with reloading shells, which will stand hard and constant wea" in long-range shooting — ^the most severe on the shells- Eeloading tools should be convenient and compact, par- ticularly those which swage the cartridges for repeaters to the required length. The reloading tool illustrated 44 PBAOTIOAL TAXIDEBMT. removes the old primer, inserts the new one, and seats the ball in the shell to the required depth. Hunters in remote districts will doubtless appreciate this reloader, as they can use it with economy, and always have a supply of fresh loaded cartridges in camp. Good metal and paper shells for shot- guns are now made by several firms. During the past year a new primer has been invented, which is very popular with hunters, and promis- es to supersede all others. It is used in both metal and pa- per shells. These new primers are easi- ly removed, and the shell can be quickly recapped and reload- ed. They are easily seated and rarely miss fire. In still-huntmg antelope and buffalo on the open prair- ies, game is shot at unusually long range, and the Im- METAIi SHELL PAPER SHELL. CABTBIDSE POK SHAEPE'S HAMMEELESS LONG EAKGE EIPLE. proved Hammerless Sharpe's Eifle, model '78, is very de- Birable. For this rifle, special reloading cartridges are made, each containing 100 grains of Dowder and a bul- GUKS AND CASES FOE COLLECTIKG. 45 ani- light let of 550 grains. The hammerless rifles are made of any required weight, and chambered to use lighter cart- ridges for general hunting. For water-fowl and large birds, a heavy double gun, 10 or 12 bore, should be used, and on small mals and birds a double gun not larger than 14 bore. The Improyed Baker Gun is particularly adapted to the use of the collector. It constitutes a double breech-loading shot-gun and a breach- loading rifle. The rifle barrel is underneath the shot barrels, in the same position as a ramrod is usually carried. With this gun the naturalist can load for any kind of game from a warbler to a buffalo. The Maynard Eifle is also conTenient for col- lecting, as it has change- able barrels for ball or shot, which can be quick- ly substituted. The ex- tra barrel can be slung from the shoulder, and is of little inconvenience to the hunter. The shells for this gun can be reloaded, and a suitable charge placed in them for all kinds of shooting. The Eemington Shot Guns are in great favor with 46 PBACTICAL XAXIDEEMT. many. I used one during an entire season in Minnesota, One of the publishers of this volume tells me that he has hunted with a Kemington for four seasons in the Eastern States, on the prairies and among the Rocky Mountains, and that he would not exchange it for any other make. It is specially well adapted for light work. The Im- p oved Parker Shot Guns are highly regarded by Some sportsmen, and I would recommend them in preference to guns of foreign manufacture. The Fox Patent Breech- loader Shot Gun, with recent improvements, is meeting with favor. It is a well shaped piece, and shoots hard and close. The new Colt's Breech-loading Shot Gun has recently come into the market, and will, it is claimed, be still more popular, owing to its cheapness. The blow-pipe is of great service for collecting warblers and other small birds. It should be made by encasing a long glass tube in wood, to prevent breaking. The or- dinary glass tubes used by glass-blowers, make good blow- pipes, which should have a diameter of one-half inch, and be not less than six feet long. To encase a pipe with wood, take two strips of straight- grained pine, and plane or "gouge "out a half-round groove the full length of each. Glue them together and wire firmly over the glass pipe. When the glue is dry, remove the wires, and plane the wood round until it has a diameter of an inch and a half ; if smaller, it will sag, and not do good shooting. Putty balls should be used, and blown with a quick pufE which is easily acquired by practice. The putty is thickened with whiting until the pellets will roll hard, but they should not be dry enough to crumble. With this novel gun, I have killed as many as fifty-six beautiful warblers in less than a day, and spoiled but few specimens in killing. The blow-gun can be used in any place where a shot-gun would be objectionable- To protect guns in travelling, or in camp, from hard GUNS AND CASES FOE COLLECTING. 4:1 knocks, dampness, and dust, good serviceable covers are necessary. Guns that can be easily taken apart, like most modern shot-guns, should be cased in as small space and convenient manner as possible. There are many arrange- ments, but the Victoria gun-case excels all others. It is 48 PEACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. made of heavy leather or canvas, and is so well balanced, when packed, that it is readily carried. For rifles and shot-guns, which have not detachable barrels, long cases are necessary. They are made in great variety of leather and canvas. Those of leather afford the best protection and are most serviceable, but they are too bulky for camp use. The canvas covers are cheap and convenient. They will protect from dust and dampness, are easily used on the saddle, and can be folded and packed in saddle- bags when the gun is in use. A strong leather handle facilitates carrying, and they will afford better protection in rainy weathei than the fringed Indian buckskin cover. Ammunition requires greater care than the gun. A wet or corroded cartridge that fails to explode, may often lead to loss of life or severe wounds from enraged animals. A gun can be cleaned and oiled in a few minutes, but a wet cartridge is both useless and danger- ous. Many hunters carry their rifle cartridges over the dusty plains in narrow belts, and shoot them reck- lessly when coated with dirt, grinding the rifling out of the guns, and ruining them for long range shooting. Compact ammunition cases are now made for both shot- gun and rifle, which hold cartridges, shells, ammunition and loading apparatus. An ammunition case of sole-leather is the best, and carries a rifle's outfit securely and conveniently. The shot-gun ammunition case is generally adopted by AMMUNITION CASE FOB KIPLE. GTTKS AND CASES FOK COLLBCTIITG. 49 sportsmen, and the compact manner in which it can be packed, makes it highly desirable for camp use. With a case of this description, one can always haye plenty of dry cartridges in convenient position. After returning from a hunt, cartridges that hare been used can be reloaded and returned, and the full quota of the case ammttnith ^ CASE fob shot awn. maintained. In making up ammunition, primers are preferable to caps, inasmuch as they are less susceptible to dampness, and will not miss fire if properly seated. 50 PKACTICAL TAXIDBKMT. CHAPTER VI. CARE OF GUNS. A good gun is indispensable to the collector's success, and should have the best of care, particularly in remote districts. Some let their guns lie around camp like an axe, but the keen hunter early learns to care for and pro- tect his weapon. A gun, like a watch, is useful if kept in good order, but worthless if neglected. It should be clean when in camp. Use in rainy weather should be avoided, and it should not be kept over night when wet without cleaning. A rifle needs even greater care than a shot-gun, and should not be carried all day in wet weather without the barrel being wiped out, or a shot fired. How- ever slight the rust at first in the rifling, it will gradually increase until the gun becomes leaded, and shoots wild. Some writers assert that water should never be used in cleaning a gun, whereas it is the only fit fluid to remove burnt powder and lead. Others recomifiend kerosene, which, though effective in cutting dirt and rust, also eats the metal, and is ruinous to rifling. The oil of porpoises, seals, sea-birds, bears, skunks, wood-chucks, and the larger land birds, is good for guns, though refined sperm oil is generally used when friction occurs, and heavy pe- troleum oils to prevent rust. To clean a breech-loading shot-gun, remove the barrels from the stock, and swab them out with a damp rag, twisted tightly around the wiper. Dry them thoroughly, and work the oil over their entire surface by rubbing with a woollen rag. The dust may be removed from the stock and about the ham- mers with a stiff brush, and the whole should be oiled. The inside of the locks need to be cleaned and oiled but once or twice a year. The barrels of a muzzle-loader should be washed out in hot water, thoroughly dried, slightly heated, and oiled. CARE OF GUNS. 51 In the field, every precaution should be taken to pre- vent accidents. I have carried two sizes of coarse shot in my body for six years, hence the following precautionary advice : Central fire guns, with rebounding locks, are less liable to be discharged in handling than those whose hammers rest on the plungers or caps. Pin-fire guns are inconvenient, and even dangerous. Gruns not having re- bounding locks shou^ld be carried at half-cock when loaded, to prevent any discharge from a blow on the ham- mers. When hunting in company, in cover, never shoot reck- lessly. Better let a thousand birds pass than shoot in the direction of a companion. In carrying a gun, see GUB-SLINO rOB aADDM!. that it is never pointed at a fellow hunter. Do not draw your weapon after you through a fence, or over fallen trees and rocks. When alone, carry at a trail, or over the shoulder. In climbing hills in winter, examine the muzzle of your gun, and see that it is not filled with snow ; also beware of sand when lying in holes about the sea-shore. When in the saddle in an open country, carry a gun before you in a broad sling slipped over the pom- mel of the saddle. When mounted in cover, sling your gun from the saddle with two straps, underneath the left leg, and over the stirrup strap. I have carried two guns 52 PEACTICAL TAXIDEKMT. a double shot-gun and a heavy Ballard rifle, daily for six months, when mounted, over some of the roughest trails of the Eocky Mountains, without accident or injury to the weapons. When encamped, have a rack or slings for your guns, and never throw them about, particularly if loaded. When driving, place your weapons, if cased, in the bot- tom of the wagon, wrapped in soft coverings. If they are not cased, carry them between the knees, or let them rest between two persons across the middle of the seat. "When in a boat, have racks for them, forward of the middle seat, or place their butts against a shoulder, where they will not slip, with the muzzle pointing for- ward, and over the gunwale. In a yacht, guns may be slung over the trunk, or placed in the back of the bunks. No matter where you are hunting, there is no excuse for the careless handling of guns, thereby perilling your own life, and the lives of others. OOLMBOTING A^JULAJS. 53 CHAPTER VII. COLLECTING ANIMALS. There are nearly three hundred dif erent species of am mals in North Amer- ica. Great experi- ence is required in trapping and shoot ing many of themj and much time and labor are often required to find them. A set of steel traps will serre the collector well and en- 54 PEACTICAL TAXIDERMY. able him to take many nocturnal animals that seldom venture out during the day. In making a large collec- tion the zoologist will have to visit many localities. On the low lands of the West he wiU find mice, shrews, gophers, prairie-dogs, badgers, foxes, skunks, etc.; in the wood lands, white-tailed deer, bears, panthers, wol- verenes, hares, rabbits, beavers, raccoons, and other ani- mals. In the timber on the higher mountains, the mar- ten, lynx, wild-cat, mule-deer, mountain-rat, squirrels, and weasels abound, while in the beautiful green pastures above the timber line, twelve thousand feet above the sea, black-tailed deer, mountain-sheep, and hares are found. Still higher, in the rocky alpine peaks, the loud, sharp, startling whistle of the marmot, and the faint squeak of the little chief hare are heard. For collecting everything, except the larger animals, a breech-loading shot-gun is the best, and cartridges should be loaded with various sizes of shot, so that the gun can be quickly and properly brought into play for any game sighted. For shooting long distances, a few of Eley's wire cartridges should be put into shells, with heavy charges of powder. The cartridges should be numbered on the wads, so that their contents can be determined at a glance. A set with different sizes of shot should be carried, and a cartridge vest is the most convenient for holding them. For general use nickel-plated metallic shells are best, particularly when shooting in damp weather. When camping, and transportation is limited, loose ammunition can be earned in small space, and metal shells loaded when required. This often obviates the carrying of a large quantity of paper shells or loaded cartridges. When hunting animals, one should be prepared for any- thing, from a deer down to a mouse, as he never knows what a day may bring forth. With the exercise of due care and forethought, one may have quite a collection COLLECTIN-G ANIMALS. 57 in a few weeks' time. Game is often seen when least expected, and it is aggravatmg to " jump " several deer or elk from cover when you have only shot cartridges for small mammals. When in search of large game, a good " shot " should depend wholly upon his rifle, and now we have those as near perfection as hunters can hope for. In collecting animals, the hunter should search for CABTRIDaE VEST. them morning and evening, particularly when hunting the ruminants. Evening is the best time for finding such animals as elk, deer, antelope, and mountain-sheep. They regularly go to drmk just before sunset, and then watering places should be watched. In a mountainous 58 PKACTICAI TAXIDEBMT. country the main trails leading to streams in the valleys can usually be reconnoitered with success. The larger caniivorous animals start on their peregrinations at evening, and the still-hunter will find them coming out from their beds and cover when the sun disappears over the mountains, and the bottoms begin to be shaded. With the approach of darkness, animals feel more secure from danger. They wander slowly about, feeding, and are not so liable to see the hunter as at other times. In the morning they are on the alert, travelling hurriedly in search of secluded places to rest for the day. Al- though watchful at such times, they are often killed by the hunter, who easily sights them when moving. During the rutting season, ruminants are travelling about during the day, and the hunter is liable to meet them at any hour, though the uplands are most i e- quented by them. Many of the smaller animals are easily snared, such as skunks, and the larger rodents. A spring-pole should be used for hares and rabbits, etc., though prairie-dogs and gophers can be taken by placing a snare attached to a string, over their holes, and quickly jerking it when they poke their heads out to watch. In this manner, I Bnared thirty-seven for scientific purposes, in a village on the plains of Montana, when it was almost impossible to get one with a shot-gun, as, when killed, they dropped ■lown their tunneled holes like the badger and woodchuck. Strychnine is one of the essentials for collecting ani- mals, as there are but few species that refuse to take it when in bait. Poisoned animals are always in the best condition for mounting, as their feet are not lacerated with traps, or their skins perforated with shot or bullet-, boles. PREPAEING ANIMAL SKINS POR MOUNTINa. 59 CHAPTER VIII. PEEPAEING ANIMAL SKINS FOR MOUNTING. Animals in warm weather require immediate attention, especially in localities east of the Mississippi Valley. Pelts that would dry in fine condition as they were taken from the carcasses on the great plains of the West, would spoil in a day's time, at the same season and in the same latitude in the Eastern United States. The most perishable pelts are those of rodents and cer- tain parts of the skins of ruminants ; vegetable matter in the viscera ferments, causing decomposition in a few hours. Carnivorous animals remain in good condition the long- est, though all pelts keep best if they are removed from animals when warm. After a large animal is killed, measure and make notes of dimensions. If the contents of the thorax are removed at once, the body will cool and stifEen in good condition within a few hours. Blood should be scraped from the hair with the hunter's knife, and any remaining, washed off. Water should not come in contact with the flesh, however, more than is necessary, as it hastens decomposi- tion. Large animals should be skinned where they fall, if time will permit ; as in packing on the back of a horse or mule, they are subject to many hard knocks while crossing rocks and fallen timber, and the chafing of tightly drawn lariats is by no means conducive to their preservation. When the hunter unexpectedly kills game, and per- chance, finds himself standing over a dead elk, ten miles from camp, with only his " scalper," and the sun an hour high, it is best to proceed as follows : If the horns are embedded in the earth, raise them carefully m ith a lever, and turn the animal on its back, propping him with short sticks. Fasten the ends of two lariats with a double 60 PKACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. " hitch " around the fetlocks, and spread the fore-legs by making the ropes taught to trees or stakes. Commence skinning, by sUtting the skin from the breast down the belly to the tail ; also open the hind-legs on the inside, from the incision made, nearly to the knees. Flay as far as convenient, sad unjoint the hind-legs . at the socket- joints of the hips. Sever the tail, slack one rope and turn the animal on its side. Eaise the trunk, pull the skin from under, and flay to the shoulders. Eelease the fore- legs, remove the skin as far as convenient, and disjoint at the scapulars or shoulder-blades. Continue skinning half way up the neck. Eeturn the trunk and head, horns upward, and prop in position. Make a cut through the skin across the skull, commencing at the middle of the base of one antler, ending at the same place at the base of the other. Place the knife in the middle of this incis- ion and run it down the back of tbe neck nearly to the shoulders. Play around the neck, remove the skin neatly and closely from the burrs of the antlers ; cut the ears through at the base, unjoint the first cervical vertebra from the skull, and sever the head from the body. Carefully remove the skin from over the eyes, and be cautious that you do not cut through the skin below them. Free the pelt from the skull, taking the lips with it. Flay the legs down from the shoulders and hams as far as possible ; then slit the legs up their backs from the hoofs nearly to tJie elbows and knees. Skin around the bones, disjoint the legs at the wrists and ankles, draw out the bones, and the skin can be folded and carried behind the saddle. The skuU and leg-bones should be cleansed and preserved. When reaching camp, spread the hide, flesh side up, and thoroughly cleanse it, removing the lean meat of the lips, but leaving the black skin forming the under cover- ing attached to the pelt. Flay the feet down closely to the hoofs, and " prime " them, as well as the whole pelt. PRBPABIlifG ANIMiL SKIIS'S FOB MOUNTIN'G. 63 »rith alum, salt, and saltpetre. Dry the skin as quickly as possible in the open air, without exposing it to the sun. The skins of all large animals may be prepared in thia manner, except those with small heads, without antlers or horns ; then, the incision in the back of the neck is omitted, and the neck-skin is turned inside out and drawn over the head. Before large animal skins become dry enough to crack, they should be given a heavy coat of arsenical soap, and folded in as small a space as possible to facilitate trans- portation. Elk antlers are " elephants " at camp, in a wao^on, or on a mule's back, and no little pluck is required in transporting them through a hunting campaign. In travelling, they should be lashed on the bows of a wagon, on the bow of a boat, or on the top of a pack-mule's load. In the latter case, the mule should be led, for if it once begins " bucking," trouble, and plenty of it, follows. I have seen a good mule killed by " snagging " himself on the antlers of an elk swung over his back. The skins of small animals should have but one incis- ion, that made from the middle of the thorax, down the belly to the vent, and should be removed in the same manner as those of larger animals. The skulls are left attached to the skins by the lips, which are split from the inside. The leg-bones should be left hanging to the feet. The flesh sides should be primed with pulverized alum, salt, and arsenic, the skulls filled with stuffing, the leg- boner .vrapped with the same, ^d the skins returned m natural position, and filled out. The smallest of skins are usually sewn together down the belly, and covered with wrappers of thin paper or sheet cotton. Some skins are much more difficult to prepare than others. Those of the bear, porcupine, seal, etc., should be thoroughly cleaned of fat by scraping with a dull knife. The tails of most animals are easily drawn when started from the base with a knife. The thumb-nail will strip the 64 PBAOTICAL TAXIDBEMT. tail of any animal up to the size of a squirreL For draw- ing the tails of large animals, wood-clamps are necessary. The clamp consists of two strips of board, fastened to- gether with a hiage at the extremities, shutting evenly, and having rounded ends for handles. Holes of gradu- ated sizes are made in the same manner as semi-circular holes, in each half of the tail-clamp, which, when open, can be closed around, to fit any sized tail, and it can be easily stripped. The tails of the porcupine, beaver, otter, and muskrat, resist all force, and must be split from the under side, carefully skinned, and well primed with preservatives. Tails that are drawn should have preservatives in- serted with a wire or piece of cane through their entire length. Unmounted skins need much care to prevent the attacks of insects, especially from the Skin Beetles (Dermestes), the collector's worst enemies ; these scent the skins from afar, and fly directly to them at night. There is a large Dermestes on the Northern plains which has a remarkably keen scent, and is almost as numerous as mosquitoes on the salt marshes of the East. I have had them strike the scent of a bag of ducks I had killed on the Milk Eiver, and, when on wing, turn short about and come straight for their blood. As far as the eye could reach, a line of them was seen pressing onward against a strong wind, toward the dead birds, which they soon covered, and attacked with unwonted voracity. The common Easteri» species is at work during nearly the entire year, though it does the most mischief in the months of May and June. Beat your skins often with a rattan, and the beetles will fall on the ground, when they can be destroyed before their eggs are deposited. A related beetle {Anthrenus) causes great destruction to carpets, is known by the absurd name of " Buffalo Moth," t-BBSEEvma A buck's head roB uoTjimira. 65 CHAPTER IX. TO ^RESERVE A BUCK'S HEAD FOR MOUNTINa. Make a cut across the top of the head, from the edge of one horn to the other. Then run the knife from the mid- dle of the head and from the incision made, down the back of the neck to the shoulders. Out the skin around, and a little below the neck, until it is free from the shoulders, and continue to flay up to the ears. Sever them at the base, and skin to the bur of the antlers. Cut the pelt away from around the horns, and remove it to the eyes. Sever the skin from the eyes, being careful not to cut it at the cavities near them, and flay down over the muzzle. Skin the ears part way down. Trim away most of the flesh on the under side of the lips, and rub the whole flesh side of the hide with powdered alum and saltpetre. If no other preservative is at hand, use salt. Turn the flesh side to the open air, and dry as soon as possible. The skin will shrivel up like an old boot-leg, but it will be in a good state of preservation for mountmg. Enlarge the hole in the occipital bone, remove the brains, clean the skull, and prime it with any preservative. Never cut a deer-skin down the front of the neck, as it makes an ugly-looking seam to mar the beauty of a head. Should a deer be wounded or killed, it is not nec- essary to behead the victim, in order to bleed him. If shot through the lungs or near the heart, bleeding is not required, as the blood will settle in the thorax, and can readily be discharged when the deer is dressed. Any animal's head can be preserved in the manner de- scribed, but the cut across the_ top of the head should not be made in the case of females, not having horns. 66 PEACTIOAt TAXIDEEMT. MOUNTING HEADS, ANTLERS, AOT) HOKNft. The heads of the various wild ruminants, and those oi the larger canivorous animals, when well mounted, make showy and life-like ornaments. Even the heads of do- mestic animals, such as the bullock, goat> sheep, dog, etc., can be made attractive for halls, dining, and club-rooms. To succeed well, a knowledge of their anatomy and char- acteristics is necessary, and great care should be taken in modelling. The average sportsman can preserve and mount a head with fair efEect, after a few trials ; but good mounting of large animals requires considerable practice and expen MOLDS TOB Oi.5TINa BBABS ence. I employ two methods for mounting heads. The first is on a cast : Eemove the skm as in the preceding chapter ; clean it of all loose flesh over a currier's board or smooth piece of wood with a convex surface. The fleshy parts of the lips and the flesh about the ears must be carefully removed with a small knife. When cleaned, place in pickle over night, or until wanted. I have sue cessfully kept skins two years in the pickle described else where. It cleans the skin and coat, partially tans the hide and forevents the hair from falling out. TSext, holding the MOtrifTI»a HEADS, ANTLERS, AKD HOBNa. 69 horns, saw off the top of the skull, from the top of the eye- holes back to the upper part of the hole in the occipital bone ; clean it well, and it is ready to fasten on the cast. In order to have a perfect cast, take a mold of plaster from a shaved head ; though, with sufficient ingenuity, a head can be modelled from plaster. The mold should be in four pieces as seen in the illustration. See also page 167. When making a cast, the molds should be well greased, tied tightly together, and run full of thinly-mixed plaster. A piece of board, with a wire put through it to run down into the snout, should be thrust into the plaster, until it bears against the front, and rests on the top of the mold. Some heavy weight should be laid on the wood, in order to keep it from rising until the plaster is " set." In five or ten minutes' time, the cast will be hard, and can be readily re- moved. It is better, however, to let the mold remain about an hour before removing the cast, which should be well heated and dried. The first cast should have the top sawed ofE just above the eyes, in order to make space for, and to fit the portion of the skull holding the antlers. The eye-holes should be scooped out so that the glass eyes can be set in clay or ce- ment. All imperfections on the cast should be corrected, and it may then be used like a natural skull, thereby ob- viating the necessity of sawing and excavating the eye- holes, should a number of casts be made. If a head has a long neck, the board can be pieced as required ; a base- board can be screwed on to fasten the skin to, and to give the neck the proper form. If the head has but a short piece of the neck skin at- NICOE BO.i£D. 70 fEACTlCAL TAXIDERMY. tached, the board in the cast -will be long enough, and should have a long base-board for the neck, as shown in the illustration. The horns should next be fastened to the skull in this wise : AVith a brace and long bit, bore two holes into the top of the skull, about two inches apart, and so ar- ranged as to be di- rectly over the wood in the cast. Countersink the holes to receive the heads of the screws, which should be long and run deep into the wood in the cast, thereby holding the horns firmly in position. Perfect the anatomy by modelling with potter's clay, where the skull bone joins the cast, and the head is ready for covering. The skin should be well moistened on the flesh side with arsenical soap, and drawn over the cast ; and the neck- board should be fastened in a vise, with the east and horns upright, to facilitate sewing. Waxed hemp-twine and a heavy three-sided, post-mortem needle is best adapted for sewing up the skin. Gather the skm around each antler ; draw it tightly about the base of the horns, by slightly puckering, and tie fast. Take a stitch through the two points of skin at the base of each antler, and tie firmly. Sew with the two strings from each horn to the middle, by cross-stitching from the under side ; then tie tightly together, cutting one string, and leaving the other to continue the seam down the back of the neck. Close the BASK-BOARD FOB LONG NEOl^. BASE-BOAKD FOB SHOKT NECK. MOUKTING HEADS, ANTLEES, AND HORN'S. 71 neck half-way down, push clay under the skin about the horns, and model in natural form. Fasten the eye-holes over the cavities in the cast, by driving three-quarter inch wire-tacks through the skin, at the inner corners of the eyes, into the cast at the small holes below the eye- cavities. Model about the eyes by inserting clay through the eye-holes of the skin. Tuck the skin about the mouth un- derneath, between the cast and skin, in order to keep the muzzle from drying and shrinking, and to pre- vent the skin from being worn off in the process of mounting, through constant rub- bing on the bench. Finish the seam down the neck, draw the skin tightly, and nail it to the middle of the top of the base-board. Eemove the head from the vise to the bench, draw down the neck- skin tightly, and nail it to the sides of the base-board. This will prevent the neck from being forced out of natural shape in stuflBng. Now commence stufiBng, by forcing, with a crammer, small bunches of excelsior under the skin, be- tween the nails, upon each side of the neck-board. The crammer is made of round iron or steel, diameter '/,-inch, length, 18 inches. One end is flattened, notched. OAST BEADT FOB OOVEBINO. 'i2 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. and turned a little one side, like a tack-lifter ; the other end is driven into a large wooden handle. Crammers of yarious sizes will be found useful in all kinds of work. Continue to stufE the neck until it is hard and has the desired shape. Draw down the skin tightly with pliers, and nail it firmly all around the edge of the base-board. Put a large screw-hook in the top of the base-board, to hang up the head and facilitate the work about the muzzle. Turn down the skin covering the under jaw, crowd a little clay under it, around the edges, and nail in position with round nails, which pierce the plaster without cracking. Pull down the nose-skin, fill out the nostrils slightly with clay, also the lip, and turn in the dark skin of the lip over the clay, so that the line where the hair com- mences will form the outline of the sides of the mouth. It will be found necessary to make a nar- row fold at each corner of the END OF CRAMMEB. • mouth, in order that the skin may lie naturally. Secure it with wire tacks. Drive a small nail part way into the center of the nose, to hold the muzzle in position when drying. Model the nose, insert the eyes, and perfect the anatomy around them by modelling. Crowd the ears full of clay at their bottoms, and sew pasteboard on their insides, to hold them in position, until dry. Model them in pricked position, connect, and draw them slightly together with a needle and thread, and dress down the whole coat with a fine metal comb. Coat the hair well with thin flour paste, applied smoothly with a stiff brush, and hang up to dry. When thoroughly dried, remove the pasteboard from the ears, comb out the hair and brush it clean. The paste will come from the hair in small scales, carrying MOtrKTIKG HEADS, AKTLEES, AKD HOENS. 73 dirt with it, and leaving the coat smooth and glossy. Draw the nail from the nose, perfect the nostrils with putty, also the under parts of the eyelids, which will give them the appearance of resting close on the eyes, as in life. Paint them neatly with cassel earth, also the muz- zle, and when dry give the same a coat of varnish. Clean the horns with a damp brush and cloth, and varnish them when dry. The head can be fastened on a shield, by running long screws through it from the back into the base-board of the neck. The screw-hook should be removed from the neck-board to the shield. The second method of preparing heads, is what maybe called mounting heads on the skulls. To do this, prepare the skins as in previous method. Clean the skull and dry well. Fill the brain cavity with plaster, and insert an iron rod, bent double, inside the skull. When the plaster is well set, perfect the anatomy of the skull by modelling with the same. Make a base neck-board as in the first method, running the iron through it and clinching it in position in a groove, with wire staples, that it may not prevent the shield from fit- ting closely. Bei)d tiie iron to the desired curve, and complete as in first method. When mounting large heads, such as those of the buffalo, elk, moose, caribou, and ox, two irons are placed in the skull, with the neck-board fastened and clinched between them. To prevent the head from being too heavy, the anatomy of the skull is built out with pads of excelsior and perfected with clay or cement. Owing to the great size and awkward proportions oi elk antlers, they can be separated in order to facilitate packing, by cleaving the skull lengthwise. Where, how- ever, transportion is available, the skulls should be kept perfect, as separating necessitates much after trouble and extra labor for the taxidermist. The solid portion of the skull is small and frail for holding fastenings with which 4 74 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMT. the heavy antlers, once separated, are brought together. When a skull is cleaved, a thin-bladed, sharp, regularly and closely set saw should be employed, making as few shavings as possible, to the end that the parts may come together evenly, when the head is mounted. To fasten a divided elk head together, prop the antlers in natural position, and bind with annealed wire. Twist ANTLERS PBOPERLT MOUNTED. one piece tightly round the back of the skull, a second, around it and through the apertures back of the eye-holes, and a third piece around the nose, just foi-ward of the grinders ; the head is then fastened temporarily. Drill horizontally through the skull with a '/j-inch bit, start- ing about 3 inches below the burr of the antler. Fasten with a snugly-fltting bolt, having a square head, and » washer under the nut. Put a smaller bolt in the same MOITNTIKG HEADS, ANTLERS, AlTD HORKS. 75 manner through the skull, between the tusks and grind- ers, and screw up tightly. Wire the uuder-jaw firmly in position, and run the cavities of the skull full of plaster. This will make the whole solid and strong. A neek- board can then be mortised and bolted in the occipital bone, which, in large heads, is preferable to irons. If antlers are mounted only, the skull should be cut down so that the horns may have the proper position when fastened on a shield. They are best secured by long screws, and the skull braced by cement. Pieces of black- walnut should be fitted closely around the burr of the horns, and glued to the shield, when they can be carved to any design. The skull can be wholly concealed by com- position work, and ornamented with Grecian leaves, imi- tation of natural leaves, or any design of wood-work. The outer edge of shields should be carved ogee pattern, and the faces may be ornamented with light raised composi- tion work, or chased and inlaid with black or gold. Horns of mountain sheep, goats, cattle, etc., having a porous bone filling, often come loose from the skull whe.' dry. They may be fastened to the skulls, by pouring h little thin plaster in them, and quickly replacing them on the skulls. Large, curved horns are usually mounted on heads carved in full, as they are awkward in shape when mounted on shields. To finish off any carved work in walnut, give a coat of shellac, dissolved in pure alcohol, and, when dry, rub off lightly, using chamois skin, moist- ened with kerosene. 76 PEACXIOAt, TAXIDEKMT. CHAPTER X. MOUNTING ANIMALS. Taxidermists haTe various methods of their own foi mounting animals ; whatever mode, however, they maj pursue, the exclusive use of soft stuffing is an error. Mammals can be well mounted in but two ways. One is to form a body complete, and place the skin over it ; the other plan is to model the head and neck, make the legs and insert them separately, fastening each one to the artificial back-bone, and then build out the body until the anatomy is perfected. Seals are mounted in this manner. The first method is usually employed in mounting large, thick-legged animals, such as the bear, panther, wolver- ene, raccoon, lion, tiger, jaguar, etc. In mounting short- haired animals by this method, the seams down the legs should be made in the neatest manner,, or they will disfigure the speci- ARTIFIGIAL BACKBONE. ,„„„„ "ri j.- T. i. mens. Jb or mounting a bear by first making the body co.nplete, proceed as follows : Pour the skull full of plaster, insert a stout iron lod, bent double, inside the skull, and when the plaster is set, it will be immovable. Kext make an artificial back-bone of one and a haK-inch pine plank, shaped as in the il- lustration. Bend the neck-iron double, and clinch to the side of the board with wire staples, allowing the proper length for the neck. Then, with small annealed wire, fasten the leg-bones to the leg-irons, bending them at the joints to the desired shape. Build out the anatomy of the legs and quarters by winding pads of excelsior, or tow, with string. Substitute the main cords of the hind legs run- ning from the hocks with wires having a covering of cot- \ t--* V MOUNTING ANIMALS. 79 ton or jute. Drill holes into the projecting hones of the hocks, and fasten the wires by inserting the ends. Give them the proper curve, and lash the other ends to the legs. Coat with thick glue, to give an even surface, body, and strength. "When the legs are formed, bend the pro- jecting irons in this manner. (See illustration, a.) Fasten them in position on the board, by drilling sets nf double holes for the irons to lay between, and clinch wire staples over them, one set of staples holding both irons. Reverse the bending of the irons to the hind legs, and POSITION OF IBOHS IN A liABQE ANIUAL. fasten them as described. When leg-bones are not with the skin, the latter should be placed on the floor, doubled lengthwise, or as near natural as possible, and wires bent from the skin, to give the proper length and bend of legs. Wood, shaped according to these wires, may then be used in place of the bones. An artificial skull can be carved of wood, in full, or set with teeth of bone, or the solid tips of deer horns. Should you wish to reserve a skull, mold one of cement, or, what is much more substantial, take impressions of the teeth and jaws in plaster, smoke the molds with a 8C PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. candle, and run them full of tin, sligljtly alloyed with lead. Fasten the castings on a wooden skull, file the teeth, and burnish them. When finishing an animal, a mouth made in this manner may be painted and var- nished to look as natural as life, with flake-white, Chinese Vermillion, cassel earth, and white varnish. In mounting animals, with long tails, such as those in the genera Felis, Canis, Vulpes, etc., after the head and legs are secured, a support for the tail is made by fasten- ing a wire, having jute wound tightly around it, to the board. In preparing short-tailed animals, such as bear and mountain-sheep, the tail-wire is made long and run into the body. Next, the whole anatomy of the body is made by bind- ing on pads of excelsior. The dummy is then fastened on a stand with washers and nuts, or by bending the irons under, plugging the holes tightly around them^ and fastening with the wires as described. The paws take considerable room, and space should be allowed for them. The skin is next cleanly curried, coated with arsenical soap, and laid on the body. The skin should be drawn together at those points where it would be liable to fall short, were the body too large. If a good fit is made, commence sewing up the legs, cross-stitching from the inside. In process of sewing, any imperfections in the an- itomy can be corrected by cramming stuflBng under the f kin. The feet should be modelled wholly in cement, and nailed in position, and the lower parts of the legs may be modelled in clay over the excelsior, if necessary. In mounting short-haired animals, it is best to model the legs in clay or cement, and imbed it well in the material of the body. "When the last seam has been closed, the whole coat should be combed out with a fine metal comb. Now comes the modelling of the head, which is the most difficult part. An expert can model any common animal's head from memory, but casts taken from ani- MOUISTTING ANIMALS. 81 mals in the flesh will be found very useful for beginners. It is not necessary to have a cast from a whole head. Take impressions, in plaster, of one eye, the nose and lips, and from these, clay casts may be made, in a few seconds, which will serve as models. The anatomy of the head should be first "roughed out " over the skull with plaster or cement. The skin should then be tacked in position, with the eyes straight. The under jaw is modelled first, and the skin covering it held in position by stitching across the inside of the mouth. Small wire tacks may also be used in favorable places ; when a wooden skull is used, the tacks may be employed altogether. The nose should be well filled with clay or cement ; a mixture of plaster and glue is very substantial, but it hardens so quickly that it can only be used by experienced hands. The skin of the lips should be turned in under, it being full to the natural thickness. The upper lip is next formed into shape, and worked down to a natural position. The features are gradually worked out, the eyes set, the ears erected by sewing on pieces of pasteboard, the hair on the head combed and brushed smooth. The animal is then ready for drying. When dry, any shrinkage in the eyelids, nose, or lips, should be filled out by modelling with white-lead, thick- ened with Paris white. The eyes, lips, and claws should be painted naturally, and varnished. When mounting an animal with the mouth closed, a crude wooden skull will answer if the head is properly modelled. To finish a head with moutli open, as for ex- ample in the case of the peccaries, wedge the jaws apart, and draw back th e lips to show the teeth. When the head is dry, remove the wedge, model the throat in cement, and cast, model, or carve a tongue, with two sharp wires in its base for thrusting securely down the throat. Model about the bottom and under the tongue, connecting it naturally. Paint usually with vermilion, flake-white, and cass^l 82 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. earth, and, when dry, varnish to give a moist and natural appearance. The second method of mounting animals is generally preferred when the skins are green, and removed as de- scrihed in the Chapter on preparing animal skins for mounting. The neck-iron is fastened in the skull, the legs made, and the hoard used as in the first method. The head is pushed up the neck-skin, and the iron fastened to the board, and the legs made. In mounting some of the larger ruminants, like the giraffe, elk, caribou, and deer, it is necessary to insert the leg-irons slightly into the bones at the joints, to prevent them from being too promi- nent. The legs are worked down the skin in position. KAmiEB OI' 'fVIBINa SMAI^L AHIMiXS. and fastened to the board as described. The body is then filled out by using crammers, and the animal completed as described in the first method. In mounting small mammals, the artificial back-bone, or board, iz no-<. used. The neck-wire is employed as back-bone. It should be a few sizes larger than the leg- wires, sharpeav/i at one end, and turned double. The long end is run through one nostril cavity, out of the hole in the occipital bone, the short end filling the other nos- tril cavity, and being drawn in tightly. In heads of some animals it is necessary to clinch the neck-wires through iSSf^r'H \*'^t, --l^- T/LOVmrSQ AKIMALS. 85 the skulls. Where the leg-bones would naturally join the spinal column, two rings are twisted in the neck- wire, through which the leg-»wires are run, and twisted firmly around the neck-wire, meeting or overlapping be- tween the rings. When the skull is attached to the skin, as is usually the case in small ■ animals, it is roughly modelled with potter's clay before the skin is turned over it. Owing to the connection of the skin and skullj the head is easily modelled, and the eyes are readily set. The body is bent in position, and filled out, prior to being mounted on a stand. An experienced taxidermist can do fine mounting by casting an animal in parts, of plaster, and putting a flat skin over the cast. In perfecting the anatomy of large animals, it is often necessary to sew through the legs, and to run bent wires into the body at different points. No rules can be given for this kind of work. The learner must rely upon his own judgment in bringing out muscles, and perfecting the general form. Animals mouths may be "done" open in wax, and shaded in dry colors, rubbed in, and the whole varnished. Skms of all animals should be soft and pliable before mounted. Dry skins should be well immersed in pickle, and be thoroughly cleaned. During cold weather, well- cured skins may be placed in pure cold watei* a day or two to soften, as it softens them much quicker than pickle will. All skins need to be well tanned in a, biiae of alum, salt, and saltpetre, to set and clean the hail before they are mounted. 86 tllACUOAL TAXIDEfiMT. CHAPTEE XI. PREPARING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. Cleaning bones is unpleasant labor, and collectors do not engage in it with, the same enthusiasm which tlicy Jon! in preparing other specimens. Zoologists, howevei-, who know the scientific value of a good skeleton, will work eagerly and industriously, when a rare mammal's frame is to be had for the cleaning. The amount of labor roquiiod to prepare a skeleton, is over ten-fold that of mounting the skin, though, when once cleaned and artificially artic- ulated, in a scientific way, it becomes the most valuable part of the animal. When travelling by pack-train, and canoe, I have often had my patience tried with the care of skeletons, and the great majority of hunters and collectors cannot be inter- ested in skeletology. In the air of the plains, an animal's frame will dry un- tainted, if trimmed closely with a knife ; but in the East, or, in the mountains of the West, skeletons should be thoroughly cleaned at once, or they soon become offensive. The frames of various animals are ho different in sub- stance and articulation, that no general rule can be given for preparing them. Wire and cement are used in artifici- ally articulating small skeletons, and heavy irons, pins, and bolts, are employed in mounting large ones. In cleaning the frame of any animal, watch the bones, particularly when separated. At an unguarded moment, dogs, cats, rodents, an4 birds, will destroy or carry them off, and careless companions will break or lose them. In caring for old skeletons, watch the teeth and claws, to see that they do not fall from the skulls or tender pelts. PBBPABING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. 87 To clean a large skeleton, carefully unjoint the first cervical vertebra from the occipital bone. Kemove the brains without disfiguring the occipital orifice, and clean off all flesh, without injuring the two small bones at the root of the tongue, and the gristle about the passages of the nose. Sever the shoulders from the trunk, by drawing the knife between the scapulars and thorax. Unjoint the hams from the hip- bone. Clean the legs by splitting the flesh to the bone on one side, and remove it in as large pieces as possible, inasmuch as it will leave the bone easier than when removed in small flakes. Un- joint the cervical vertebrse from the skeleton of the hadrosausus. thorax, and clean both by constant trimming with a knife. Great care should be exercised in cleaning the chest, so that the small gristly elastic ends of the ribs are not cut. Skeletons can be most substantially prepared with- out boiling, or the use of lime, though more labor may be required. When preparing a fresh skeleton, vigorously rub the bones with sawdust. It will remove small parti- cles of flesh, and is a good dryer. It is necessary to sep- ISa PBACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. arate the bones of a large skeleton, to clean them, and the larger bones should be exposed to the sun, then stripped and carefully scraped. The spinal column requires more labor in cleaning, than the rest of the skeleton, on account of its inconyen- ient shape and the work of removing the tough tissues which connect the vertebrae. The quickest and best way to prepare a skeleton, is to sink it in the sea, if practicable, in a small-meshed net bag, with a buoy to indicate its location. The thousands of small marine animals will clean out every cavity more rapidly and thoroughly than man can do the work. The Bay of Fundy is one of the most favorable places in tho world for preparing skeletons. I have completed tho cleaning of very large seals in its waters, by sinking them for a period of twenty-four hours only. So numerous and voracious are the marine animals, that the frame of a large fish will be bared in a single night. Portions of a skeleton may also be buried in an ant-hill, and the occupants will soon clean the bones. If the skeletol- ogist is preparing his collections where marine animals or ants cannot be utilized, and he wishes to accomplish his work quickly, he will have to resort to boiling. The bones should be cleaned with a knife, and then boiled until every particle of flesh leaves them. During the process, the water should be frequently changed, so that the grease will not settle in and discolor the skeleton. The bones should be slowly boiled at first, and for several hours, before the flesh begins to leave them. They should occasionally be taken from the pot, and loose particles re- moved, in order to hasten the work. Boiling frequently causes the caps of the larger bones to come off, and weak- ens the skeleton generally. Bones may be bleached by placing them in a lime-bath and exposing to the sun. I do not recommend the use of lime, as it eats the enamel of the bones. Cold water and PBEPAEIKG AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. 89 a hot summer's sun will bleach sufficiently, and frost will assist in winter. Small skeletons may be cleaned by placing them in water, and removing the decomposed flesh with a stifE brush. The best way to prepare them, however, is with the help of marine animals, ants, and dermestes, as de- scribed above. Large skeletons are generally mounted on a galvanized iron frame, articulated with brass wires. 'No general rule can be given which will apply to mounting all skele- tons, as they vary greatly in size and form. To mount a large skeleton of a ruminant, string the vertebrae on a metal rod running into the occipital orifice through the top of the skull. Fasten with a nut, and support the whole by two upright rods connecting with the artificial spinal cord between the forelegs and hindlegs. The scapulars, leg, and other bones, must be attached in their proper positions, by drill- ing small holes through the bones, and connecting them in various ways. The taxidermist must use his own judgment in drilling and^'*-^^^''"'™^- fastening, placing the wires where they will hold best and be the least observed. A bow-drill is most useful in making holes, and the bits should be sharp, and taper inwards, back from the cutting edges, so that when used they will cut free and easy. To securely fasten small bones, drill and draw them into position by a piece of polished annealed wire through the holes, turning each end with round-nosed pliers, in two or more rings, until the wire is sufficiently taken up. Wires proportionate to the size of the bones must be used. Pliers of varipus size to turn them are also necessary. PASTENINO UEO BONES. FASTENING 90 PRACTICAL TAXIDEBMT. The joints of legs may be fastened by making a saw- kerf in the middle of the extremities of each bone, to re- ceive a strip of heary sheet brass, with a hole in each end for the reception of pins. See illustration on the pre- ceding page. It is often necessary in mounting small skeletons to weave and twist very small wire about the ribs, in order to hold them in natural position. Whenever it is impor- tant to secure a bone in position, wire is generally used, except in fastening caps and very small bones, in which case cement is preferable. COLLECTING BIBDS. 91 CHAPTER XII. COLLECTING BIRDS. ThQ experience of ornithologists usually makes them careful hunters and good shots, yet, a few remarks on collecting may be of value to amateurs, particularly if thrown among a variety of species with which they are not acquainted. In general hunting for Korth American birds, No. 4 shot is heavy enough for the largest, if a gun is used that does not exceed ten pounds in weight, and No. 10 in bore. Nos. 1 and 3 shot may be used successfully for sea and lake shooting, with unusually heavy guns, built specially for such sport. Many hunters use too small a charge of powder and too coarse shot. Muzzle-loading cylinder-bored guns will stand, and require more powder than the choke-bore breech-loaders, which are becoming so popular, particu- larly for trap-shootmg. Before " chilled " shot were used, the choke-bores were the best for long-range shooting, with soft shot. Now nearly equal results at long-range are obtained with cylinder bores and " chilled " shot, and choke-bores and soft shot. Many trials of all kinds of guns, with various charges, have proved conclusively that cylinder-bores are the best for general shooting. "Chilled" shot can not be used in the average thin- muzzled choke-bore gun with killing charges without "bulging" and ruining the barrels. In shooting soft shot from a choke-bore gun, they are completely jammed out of their spherical form before they leave the weapon, and although they will quickly kill a bird at short range, they soon lose force, and do not penetrate or hold to- gether like "chilled" shot, which retains nearly its orig- inal form after being fired. 93 PRACTICAL TAXIDEKMT. Much of the success of the collector depends on having his gun properly charged. For shooting small birds, a light gun of sinall bore, loaded lightly with ordinary pasteboard wads will an^er. For shooting large birds at long range, a heavy 12 or 10-bored gun is best, loaded with two of Eley's pink-edge wads over the powder, and a light wad over the shot. Four or four and 'a half drams of powder, with an ounce and a quarter of shot, is a proper load for a solid 12-bore gun, and five and a half or six drams of powder, with an ounce and a half of shot, is a suitable charge for a heavy 10-bore gun. For general shooting with cylinder-bored guns, the ducking, or second grade powders, of medium grain, are the best. Moist powders appear to give the best "pattern," though when used in rapid firing with muzzle-loaders, miss fires are liable to occur. The first brands of American black powder, such as Dupont's Diamond Grain, Hazard's Electric, Laflin & Band's Orange Lightning, and the American Powder Co.'s Telegraph Sporting, are quick, dry powders, best adapted to breech-loading shot-guns. The various com- panies sell equal grades to the trade at about the same prices, but every collector has a favorite bi'and. There are are about 640 species of birds in North America, from the Mexican boundary to the Arctic Ocean, and the collector will be compelled to visit nearly every State and Territory to find them all. He will have to cruise both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts for sea- birds, scour the States on the Atlantic for many of the smaller species, camp on the barren plains of the West for the long-spurred buntings and other birds of the prairies, and climb the snow-capped peaks of the Eocky Mountains for the white-tailed ptarmigans, dusky grouse, water ouzels, etc. One often finds birds of the same genus at points thousands of miles apart. In field collecting, birds, when first shot, should be V "* >.'. COLLECTING BIRDS. 95 handled with great care, until the bodies stiffen, and the blood ceases to flow. When killed, they should be lifted by the legs, and the blood remoTcd from the plumage by pressing it out with the blade of a dull knife. The blood may also be absorbed, by using fine sawdust, corn-meal, or bran. The plumage should he well shaken and arranged, and the specimen carefully carried until camp is reached. A large-sized fish-basket, slung from the shoulder, is the best receptacle for small birds. They may be buried in fine sawdust, wrapped in sheet- wadding, or placed heads down- ward in paper funnels. The funnels should extend be- yond the end of the tails, and so folded as to prevent the feathers from being cramped and disfigured. Large birds are troublesome to carry. They should be hung by the legs over the shoulder, where they will be of little inconvenience, and rest quietly without chafing the plumage. Birds with a soft plumage, and long wings and tails, are the most disfigured in transportation. Others with a hard plumage, such as ducks, divers, grebes, guillemots, etc., will stand rough handling and make up well in skins. The sexes of American birds of the same species, vary greatly in size and plumage, while others are precisely alike in plumage. With some, such as the ducks, grouse, crows, black-birds, and most of our bright-plumaged birds, the adult males are easily recognized by their large size and bright colors. With eagles, hawks, owls, gulls, sand-pipers, plovers, snipe, woodcock, etc., the females, though nearly like the males in plumage, are much larger in size, and adults may be easily recognized. Many species do not attain their full plumage untU the third or fourth year, and nearly all sport a different dress for spring and autumn. The spring plumage of nearly all species is bright and beautiful, while, with but few ex- 96 PRACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. ceptions, the fall dress is of a dull color. The Baltimore oriole is one of the remarkable species which appear in August with a brighter, prettier plumage than in spring. The plumage of the " young of the year," or the young male of many species, often resembles the adult females ; in such instances, it is best to determinate the sex by dissection. The generative organs are much larger during the pairing season, than at any other period of the year. The seminal glands of a warbler are as large as a pea, in spring, when late in the autumn they are no larger than a No. 8 shot. The ovaries of female birds lie in the same relative position as the generative organs of the male, and are easily recognized, though in winter a small lens will be found useful in examination. The genera- tive organs lie close to and in the cavity of the spine, where the ribs commence. The ovaries are two in num- bier, and one exceeds the other in size, particularly in the laying season. Good shooting is, so to speak, a natural gift, though with practice any one can become a fair shot. In close range rifle-shooting at a stationary mark, steady nerves/ a ke6n eye, and practice, are all that are necessary. In shooting at moving objects, however, cal- culation is the key to success. In ordinary rifle-shooting, a steady pressure on the trigger brings the best results, but in using the shot-gun, much snap-shooting is neces- sary. There are two modes of shooting a crossing bird on the wing, viz., taking a snap-shot ahead of the bird, or cov- ering the beak, and discharging the gun with a steady pressure while following the object. The latter is the best and surest method, though, in early practice, ama- teurs will shoot behind the game. In shooting ducks and other birds of rapid flight that are fairly started on the wing, you must lead according OOLLBCTING BIEDS. 97 to the distance they may be away. A duck, going before the wind fifty yards distant, should he led from four to six feet, according to its speed. One rising from the water at forty yards, can he brought down by aiming at the end of the bill. A driving bird, or bird flying straight from the shoot- er, should be well covered, and the trigger pressed when the game has disappeared under the gun baiTels. In general hunting, the collector will become accus= tomed to the various sounds of the forest, and any strange note or noise will quickly attract his attention. A trained riRE-LIGHTING OB " JACKINS DOOKa ear will lead the hunter to birds which would otherwise be passed unseen. Many of our native birds have only their song and alarm notes. Others, such as' jays, the yellow-breasted chat, and some thrushes, have a variety of notes, while a few species, such as the cedar bird, crow, and herons, have but a single cry, which is generally given in alarm. But long experience only will familiar- 5 98 PRACTICAL TAXIDEKMT. ize the hunter with the notes of the hundreds o.? birds which frequent mountain, plain, and marsh. Nearly all our birds cease their songs when their young leaye the nest. The vociferous little vireos, however, sing until they depart in the fall, and probably continue their warbling the entire year, unless it be during the moult- ing season. "When roaming in field or forest, follow up every strange noise until satisfied from whence it proceeds. You will in this manner become familiar with the notes of the various birds of a locality. It may require several hours, or even days, to learn a bird's note, but when once "ac- quired," it is seldom forgotten. I once spent nearly half a day in a spruce swamp on a pretty little island in the Bay of Fundy, before I could find out the author of the winter wren's song. He is such a quiet little fellow when he migrates southward in winter, that it did not occur to me he could be such a sweet songster. The little ruby-crowned wren once led me on a fruit- less chase over the rugged sides of Pike's Peak, but I finally surprised one at his song later in the season on the Buffalo Mountains. Let the collector proceed from the center of the United States, and going North, South, East, or West, he will continually meet with strange notes and new species. PBEPABIN6 BIRD SKINS FOB MOUNTING. Sjj CHAPTER XIII. PREPARING BIRD SKINS FOR MOUNTING. In removing the skin from a bird, the body should be dusted from time to time with corn-meal, or iSne saw- dust. This absorbs all moisture, and prevents the plu- mage from being soiled. Some writers recommend the use of plaster when skin- ning birds. That this should be effective is an erroneous idea, inasmuch as it dries the skins so quickly that it is difficult to " return " them. If applied to the necks of some species of woodpeckers and parrots, it would be im- possible to return them to their natural position. Plaster fills the pores of one's skin, chaps and cracks the hands, and, when mixed with grease in preparing fat birds, it is removed only with great difficulty from the hands. Corn- meal softens the hands, and is the best absorbent when "working on" small birds. When preparing a skin, place the bird on its back, and run a long piece of cotton loosely down the throat with forceps, or by twisting it around the end of a wire. If the specimen be a large bird, plug the nostrils with cot- ton, to prevent the saliva from oozing and soiling the plumage. Break the wing-bones near the body to fa- cilitate handling. Make a longitudinal cut from the breast-bone to the vent, and push the body away from the skin with the knife, holding the skin firmly be- tween the thumb and fingers of the left hand, and cut- ting as little as possible. When the skin has been removed far enough to expose the shins, slip them up and unjointthem at the knee, and cut through the flesh until the skin is lain bare. Flay down to the vent, cut off the extremity of the body which 100 FBACXIOAL lAXIDEKUT. holds the tail feathers, and remove the skin to the wings, cutting through them where broken. Flay to below the eyes, cut off the neck, close to the head, and remove the triangular lower portion ol the skull, taking out the brains. Eemove the eyes, by sliding the brain-spoon under them, with a circular motion. Cut away ali flesh from the skull, leg, and wing bones, unjointing the broken main bones of the wings from the double bones or fore-arms. In preparing some species of birds, with large heads and small necks, such as wood-ducks, green- ring teal, some species of woodpeckcri, cockatoos, etc. , it is best to open the scalp from the outside after the body has been severed from the skull and the skin returned. The incision maybe made length- wise of the head, back of the eye, or along the top of the head ; the latter mode is much more desirable for birds with crests. Pass a thread between the bones of both wings, and draw them nearly together, and tie in posi- tion. Dust the whole fleshy side of the skin freely with dry arsenic, crowd the eye-holes full of cot- ton, wrap the leg-bones with the same, draw them back in natural position, and return the skin. Should the neck become stretched, and difficult to return, soap will cause it to slip over the bead readily. PBEPAEIUa BIRD SKINS FOE MOUNTING. 101 Smooth the plumage, fill out the body with stufSng, sew up the skin, cross the legs, tie them, and wrap the skin closely, in split sheet-cotton or thin paper. In filling out a skin, a piece of the stuffing should be made in a taper roll, and the small end pushed up into the throat of the bird. Other pieces should be laid in the body of the skin until it is full, previous to sewing it up. This wiU prevent the neck of a bird from drawing and drying in a long unnatural form. A drying-board will be found useful when making skins at home or in a permanent camp. It is made by gluing beveled pieces of thin, flat wood of the same size, on a board, equal distances apart. DETING-BOABD. Pieces of heavy manilla paper are fitted between the cross- boards, and glued in position so as to form semi-cylin- drical gutters. In making drying-boards for large skins, tin may be used in place of paper, and tacked in position. Skins prepared for scientific use, should have a small tag attached to the legs, with the sex marked on one side, and the number of the skin on the other. A duplicate number should be entered in a note-book, where data can be written for reference. When skins are placed in a cabinet, a large label should be tied to each, giving the species, sex, locality, and date of collection. .02 EBACIKJAL XAXIDEfiMT. CHAPTER XIV. MOUNTING BIRDS WITH CLOSED WINGS. 11 a bird is soiled with blood, wash the parts in cold water, and dry the plumage as much as possible with a cloth or sponge. Cover the wet feathers with calcined plaster, rubbing it lightly into the plumage until the feathers are dry and assume their natural appear- ance. To remove the plaster from the plumage, vig- orously beat the bird with the wing of a fowl or a brush-broom. Re- move the body in the same manner |_ as when prepar- ^ ing a skin. EoU ^ up a small ball of ^ tow and crowd it J tightly into the = skull. Wind tow _g^ around a wire, ^K pointed at both ends, until it be- comes about the length and size of a natural neck, leaving both ends sufficiently uncovered to clinch through the skull and body. Fasten the tow with thread or string, to keep it tight and in proper form. GKBBE COBREOTLT MOITNTED. MOtTNTINa BIRDS WITH CLOSED WINGS. 103 Pass the short end of the wire up through the tow and back of the skull, clinch firmly by repassing it through the fore part of the skull and fasten it through the eye- hole with a pair of round-nosed pliers. Fill out the eyes to nearly their natural size with putty or potter's clay, and dust the whole fleshy side of the skin with dry arsenic, which is best applied with the hind foot of a hare. Fat birds, and particular- ly large ones, should haye the skin well primed with arsenical soap. Between the wings and on the shoulders of the bird-skin, are two yellowish lines where the quills of the feathers are inclined to protrude through the skin. These should be caught up with a needle and thread, and drawn nearly together, then tied in posi- tion. In a skin of a bird of the size of a red-tailed hawk, they should be tied an inch and a half apart. Other bird-skins should be drawn np in proportion to their size. Keturn the leg-bones in posi- tion, and also the skin, by passing the head through the neck. Pick out the eye-lids in their natural form, with a needle or small for- ceps, and arrange the plumage smoothly. Make a body the shape and size of the natural one, by rolling up a bunch of excelsior, sea-grass, or tow, Avinding into form with twine or thread. Pass the neck- wire through the body lengthwise, pull the skin carefully over the body, and clinch the protruding neck- wire firmly. Never use skeleton or soft bodies, as they will not hold wires sufficiently tight to keep a bird in form. SKTN READY FOB EE- TUKNIUa. 104 PBAOTIOAL TAXIDEBMT. Wire the legs by running pointed wires through them from the center of the feet up behind the bones. Fasten the leg-bones to the wires by wrapping them with tow and twine, making the legs a trifle smaller than they were naturally. Slip the wires further through the legs and let them pass obliquely through the body from the sides to the fore-breast. Clinch them firmly in the body. PIN-TAIL DUCK PEOPERLT MOUNTED. a straighten the legs parallel with the sides, fill out the throat and front of the breast with soft stuflBng to nat- ural size, then sew up the skin. Smooth down the plu- mage, bend in a natural position, aiid. fasten to a stand. Apply mucilage to the inside of the eyelids, press the artificial eyes tightly in position, then " pick out " the eyelids over the eyes with a needle. With large birds, a little modelling is necessary to per- fect the anatomy around the eyes. Care should be taken in arranging the eyehds naturally, as it adds greatly to the life-like appearance. Fasten the bill together, by MOUNTIKG BIRDS WITH CLOSED WINGS. 105 Stick small, pointed passing a thread through the nostrils and base of the under mandible, and tie in position. To wire the tail is one of the most delicate tasks for the tyro, and should be done as follows : Pass a long, smoothly-pointed piece of small wire through each tail feather at the flat part of the quill near the body, and spread the tail in accordance with the position of the bird. A large wire should be run through the fleshy part of the tail, from the under side, into the body, so that the tail be made to rest in any position. Secure the wings by sticking sharp pieces of wire through them into the shoulders. wires or pins in different parts of the body, and wind the plumage lightly down in position with fine thread, and leave until diy. The plumage may be made to lay smoother by touching the rough places with a feather wet in turpentine. When a bird is first taken, note the color of eyes, cere, gular sack, and legs, so that it can be painted naturally when mounted. A natural crook of a tree makes an ornamental stand. To facili- tate handling, small birds are usually mounted on a T stand, and removed when needed fot cases. Large birds, as far as practicable, are placed on the stands they are to remain on, when first mounted. When a bird is thoroughly dried, clip off the wrap- pings of thread, cut off projecting wires, and remove pins. Paint necessary parts, and varnish beak, legs, and talons, to preserve from decay and protect from the at- tacks of insects. BODY AND NECK, SHOWIHa POSITION OF WIBES. 106 PEACTICAL TAXIDEBMT. CHAPTER XV. MOUNTING BIRDS WITH SPREAD WINGS. When a bird is to be stuffed with spread wings, it should be skinned in the usual manner, as heretofore des- cribed, but the main bones of the wings should be left attached to the double ones and not broken. To do this it is necessary to cut into the breast of the bird when skinning it, and unjoint the wings from the body. The flesh is removed from the wing-bones to the second joints from the inside of the skin. The flesh about the double bones should be removed from the outside, by making a cut over them lengthwise and on the under side of the wing. By pushing back the feathers, a large bare place will be found on most birds, where the incision can be made. When cleaning the wing, skin back carefully from both sides of the incision, and remove the flesh by pulling and cutting it out in pieces. The end of the fleshy part of the wing should be primed with corrosive sublimate, dissolved in alcohol and water. These parts are the first attacked by dermestes. Dust the wings well with dry arsenic, substitute potter's clay, firmly packed, for the removed fiesh, sew up the skin by cross-stitch- 'ng from the under sides, and the feathers will fall smoothly and cover the seam. The wing- wires should be sharpened at both ends, and must be of sufiicient length to clinch through the body. Eun the end of the wire from the inside up the wing, between the skin and bones, and twist firmly into the fleshy tip where the primaries or first long feathers grow out. Lash the wing-bone tightly to the wire, and wind firmly with tow, then wrap securely with twine into natu- MOUNTING BIRDS WITH SPREAD WINGS. 107 ral shape. Smooth the plumage, lay the bird on its back, and insert artificial body. It is necessary to run the neck and wing-wires through the body at the same time. HAWKS PEOPERLT MOUIfTED, WITH SPEEAB WINOS. on account of their length. The neck-wire is extended through the body lengthwise, and the wing-wires diago- nally from the shoulders, and all are then clinched inside. 108 PRACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. The leg-wires are arranged the same as described in mounting birds with closed wings, and the skin sewed up by cross-stitch ing. The wings should then be bent with their backs near together, and bent also at the joints to give them a natural curve. Nature is often rep- resented by placing a stuffed bird or animal in the talons of birds of prey before they are placed on stands. This is done by running the front leg-wire through the speci- nien and resting it in a natural position. The ends of long wires should be stuck in the back and carried up under the wings, and doubled over the ends, to keep the quill-feathers regular and in position until dry. Stripe of card-board should be pinned to the bird, to hold the plumage in position. Birds to be suspended should have the wings raised slightly more than horizontal, and be hung by a wire run through the body from the back, and clinched in the breast. The legs of a white pigeon should have the wires cut ofE close to the feet, and then be bent in natural position. An eagle, hawk, or owl, may be suspended with its prey in its talons drawn closely to the body. There can be no positive rules of detail for the last touches of this art, as a taxidermist's knowledge of an- atomy and taste of arrangement will suggest the shape and position of birds. MOUKTINQ DBT BIED SKINS. 109 OHAPTEB XVI. MOUNTING BKi BIBD SKINS. To mount a large dry bird-skin well, requires experience and patience. Small skins are more easily stufEed, though they require proper and delicate treatment. All dried skins need dampening and softening previous to mounting, and a box should be prepared for the pur- pose as follows : Make a tight box of tongue-grooved boards large enough to receive the skins without bending them. The cover should drop inside and rest flush with the top on cleats. The box should be filled about four inches deep with wet sand, covered with paper on which the skins are laid. The dampness from the sand is sufficient to soften humming-bird skins ready for mounting in from six to twenty-four hours, according to the size of the skin. Larger skins, the size of warblers, should have the legs wrapped in wet cotton for a few hours when in the box. A bird the size of a robin should have the eye-holes wet, a damp piece of cotton or tow placed in the skin, and worked well up in into the neck, and the legs wrapped in wet material. When the skin has been m the box about ten hours, it is ready for mounting. Larger birds, such as herons, curlews, cranes, etc., should remain in the box with their legs in wet wrappings until they are soft enough to admit of being wired. The inside of the skins should then be dampened over night or longer, according to their size and condition. It will often take a week to get a skin soft enough to work well in mounting. The wings of large birds, which are to be spread, should be thoroughly and repeatedly dampened every night fo» 110 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. seTeral days. A weak solution of carbolic acid and water should be used for moistening large skins in warm weather, as clear water will cause some parts of them to get in a semi-putrid state when soft, and the scales and skin of the legs to rub off when handled in wiring. When a skin is dampened for mounting, all stuffing should be removed with forceps, and the skull filled full with " chopped tow." A skin with a long neck should be carefully stretched with forceps preparatory to inserting the artificial neck. A hard, smooth body should be made, and the neck attached by running the neck-wire through the body, and clinching it firmly. The depression where the neck joins the body, or where the crop would naturally be, should be filled out and rounded to the body with lappings of tow, bound in form, and held with string or thread. The neck and body should be coated with arsenical soap, to enable the skin to slip easily. The projecting neck- wire should be run through the neck out at the top of the head, and the skin worked carefully over the body until the upper end of the neck rests against the skull. The rest of the wiring is performed in the same man- ner as when mounting birds in the flesh, except when "half- spreading" the wings; then the wing- wires are run in from the outside, at the first joint of the wing, along under the bones, into the body. Humming, and other small birds should have the wings, and sometimes the tails " crushed " at the base of the quill feathers when they are to be spread. This is done by pinching them lightly with a pair of flat-nosed pliers. To perfect the anatomy of large birds, it is often nec- essary to make incisions in the skin under the wings, and fill out the sunken parts by crowding chopped tow between the skin and body. The cavities under the eye- holes need filling from the outside with clay or putty, be- fore the eyes can be properly set. Previous to the final MOUNTING DBT BIBD SKINS. 131 winding of a dried skin with thread, the plumage should be thoroughly steamed by holding it before the nose of a kettle. A long nose should be soldered to a common tin tea-kettle, for steaming skins. 112 PEACTICAL XAXIDEEMT. CHAPTER XVII. MEDALLION HEADS. To give variety in ornamental taxidermy, heads with necks attached may be tastefully mounted in medallion effect. Heads of animals, birds, reptiles, etc., can be prepared as described, leaving the neck-wires long enough to be passed through and clinched to a shield. The heads of birds of prey, pheasants, and the larger water birds are the most attractive. The head of the great homed owl, with ears properly erected, appears very life-like. Heads of nearly all the duck family are effective when mounted, par- ticularly those of the wood-duck, and hooded merganser. When mounting heads, use as heavy a wire as can be clinched in the skull without crushing it. The artificial neck should be made a trifle larger than the natural one, and the head modelled in clay or cement. The eyes should be evenly and artistically set ; the bill, cere, and gular skin, painted naturally, the color being brought out with a coat of transparent varnish. MKDAILION WILD GOOSB HEAD. MOUNTING SPECIMENS ON SHIELDS. 113 CHAPTER XVIII. MOUNTING SPECIMENS ON SHIELDS. To give variety in taxidermy, birds, and small ani- mals, are often mounted as if just killed, and hung on ornamental shields. I have mounted hundreds of game birds in this manner, singly, in pairs, and in bunches. The method is seemingly pleasing to most sportsmen. Game birds are usually placed in pairs of different spe- cies ; for instance, a woodcock and snipe, a ruffed and pinnated grouse, a mallard and black duck, or two teal of different varieties. In preparing birds for shields, mount them as described, and give them the desired positions. Wires should be run through the shields and clinched in the bodies of the specimens, to hold them in position. PATTEBNS FOB SHIELDS. Dark-colored birds should be placed on light shields of chestnut, maple, and ash. Birds of light color present the best appearance on black walnut and stained shields. Game may be hung up by the leg or bill, with wings closed, or with one or both wings hanging. The taxider- mist will have to consider size, and exercise taste in ar- rangement. The outlines of shields should be in harmony with the specimens on them, and effectively carved. The above are some of the patterns which I have made for gen- eral usq. 114 PRACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. Panels should range from three-fourths to one and a half inch in thickness. If made of thinner material, they will warp out of shape. Composition ornaments may be glued on the surface, and colored with a paste of umber and alcohol. Trimmings and chasing are done with gold-leaf, put on with gold size, which should re- main several hours, until it is partially dried, before the leaf is applied. The composition and wood should be finished with a varnish of shellac and alcohol, which will dry in a few minutes. If varnish is not employed, dress ofE the wood with fine sand-paper and finish with linseed oil. DEESSOfQ BIBD SKUfS. 117 OHAPTEK XIX. DKESSING BIRD SKESfS. Varying custom has brought all kinds of skins into use, and among the prettiest are those of the divers, grebes, sea-birds, and ducks. They are made, nearly whole, into mufEs, and cut into strips for trimming cloaks and hats, and for general fancy work. The most beautiful of the divers is the loon, which may easily be recognized by its perfect markings and bluish-black collar. Unfor- tunately, most of these hardy water birds when in their brightest plumage remain far north to breed, and upon returning late in the autumn they have lost most of their beauty. Occasionally, stragglers tarry south far into spring, and are taken in the summer plumage. The homed grebe in its rich silky dress of cinnamon-brown and silver, is the prettiest of its family, and is often sold for the Eussian grebe. In preparing these skins, they are taken ofE Hat, as fol- lows : Make an incision through the skin from the upper mandible over the head, between the eyes, down the back of the neck continuous to the middle of the tail. Cut ofE the wings and legs close to the body, and remove the skin, which comes off in mat-like form. Scrape clean, and cover the flesh side with powdered alum and salt- petre (four parts alum, one saltpetre). Fold the skin together, and allow it to remain from twenty-four hours to a week, according to its condition. If there is much fat, it will resist the action of the preservatives, and more time will be required for tanning. When the skin is permeated with the chemicals, dry and dress down with a flat piece of pumice. Soften by dressing with butter. 118 PRACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. and flniish it by rubMng freely with veneer sawdust. It is then ready for use. In manufacturing, the skins should be cut to the best advantage, lined with any stiff material by sewing, and shaped by being steamed and placed in molds, or wound down over forms until dry. A loon- skin makes a pretty ornamental rug, and can be neatly trimmed with silk or flannel. A great variety of house- hold ornaments may be gotten up from bird skins, not only from those described, but from all of our native bird:-. OOLLBCTINa AND PEEPABING BIRDS' EaSS. Itfl CHAPTBE XX. COLLECTING AND PKEPARING BIRDS' EGGS. A cabinet of eggs, yarying in size and color, forms one of the most interesting collections of nature. Stu- dents of oology are found in all lands, and number many enthusiastic ladies. Eggs are mor'^ difficult to procure than birds and animals, lodged as tney generally are in clifEs, marshes, and tree-tops, or hidden in treacherous banks, hollow stumps, thick grass, and rushes. To be successful, one must closely watch the move- ments of birds, and diligently search for their nests. Indi- viduals of the same species often vary in their mode of nest- ing. The wood-duck builds its nest in a hollow tree. Other closely related species build nests on the ground. The worm-eating warbler selects terra-firma, and still other warblers build in trees and bushes. On the islands in the Bay of Pundy, herring gulls breed in trees ; in other localities, the nest of this bird is found on the ground. Some species build their nests both in the trees and on the ground, such as the marsh-hawk, short-eared owl, brown thrush, swamp black-bird, Carolina dove, etc. There is one species (the cow-bunting) which never builds, but deposits its eggs in the nests of other birds much smaller than itself, such as the vireo's, sparrow's, and warbler's. I have a nest of Vireo olivaceus contain- ing but one egg of the vireo and three of the large brown eggs of the cow-bunting. The shiftless bunting never assists in incubation or feeding the young, but leaves the industrious little vireo to satisfy the ravenous appetites of a family of usurpers. Larks, waders, snipe, woodcock, quail, and grouse, make their nests on the ground. The chimney swallow lays its eggs in a skeleton nest of dead twigs, glued to- 120 PEACTICAL TAXIDEEMT. gether with cherry-gum, on the side of a smoky chimney. It seems almost unnatural for birds to breed in such a place, and these swallows originally, doubtless, nested on the Tertical sides of cliffs. When not addled, eggs should be " blown " as soon as collected, as they are not so liable to be broken with the con- NEST or THE BAITIMOKB OBIOLB. tents removed. They should be carefully packed in small boxes of cotton, bran, or sawdust. If packed and carried before being blown, their weight causes them to work through the packing. In coming in contact, indentations are made, and eggs are ruined for cabinet specimens. All eggs should be blown with one circular hole in the side. r -mifMmt-i'a BLOW-PIPB AMD EaO-DBUX. OOLLBCTIKCt AND PEEPAEING BIEDS' SaGS. 121 which is easily made with an egg-drill. Kemove the contents with a blow-pipe, by holding the egg with the hole downward, and blowing forcibly in one side of it. Should an egg contain an embryo, it can be removed with a small hook, or fill the shell with water, and change it frequently until the embryo has decomposed suflBciently to run ofE. The matter in the eggs of sea-birds is very glutinous and difficult to extract. This is specially true of the eggs of the razor-billed auk, and Arctic puffin. Immediately after being blown, the shells should be washed out first with cold water, and then with weak carbolic acid water. Ragged holes in eggs can be improved by pasting gold-beater's skin over them. Eggs should be numbered with a lead-pencil, and the numbers duplicated in a note-book, under which should be written the date of collection, name of species, and any thing else of interest. Then arrange in sets in a cabi- net with drawers of various depth to accommodate them. Eggs show to the best advantage, and are less liable to be broken, when set in gi'ated cork or colored sawdust iv small boxes. 123 PEACTICAL TAXIDEKMT. CHAPTER XXI. COLLECTING, PEEPAEING, AND PRESEEVING REPTILES The alligator is the largest reptile of Iforth America, and should be skinned in the same manner as a mammal, tlie incision in the skin being continued nearly the full length of the tail. The plated skin is obstinate and diffi- cult to handle when mounting, but it is easily separated from the delicate white flesh. It can only be removed to the occipital bone. When the skin has been thoroughly cleared of flesh, place it in the pickle for preserving ani- mals' skins until mounted. Or, place in a strong pickle for a few days, then remove, and partially stuffing the skin with any light material, dry it in a shaded spot. Alliga- tors are found in the rivers and bayous of the Southern States, and still further south. The larger ones are shot with ball or buckshot while basking in the sun. The young ones can be captured with a net. Lizards live among damp rocks, and under decayed lojs, stumps, etc. They are often taken in large numbers in ponds, and creeks, and are found generally through tlie United States. There are many species, and most of them frequent the water. One large kind, known among hunters as the " Eacer," is found only on the dusty plains of the far West. There is not a little superstition regarding lizards, and many believe their bite causes death. The American species are harmless and really pretty. Their bodies are translucent, cold, and disagreeable to the touch, and their varying color, as they change to different objects, gives rise to much superstition. They move with remarkable celerity in warm weather, but in the autumn become in- active and are easily secured. They can be taken with y ^^1 "^ ^ COLLBCTIITG AND PEEPAEINQ EEPTILBS. 125 the hand, or a scoop-net, and should be placed in pickle for reptiles, etc. Snakes abound in all lands, though in the United States the species are not so widely distributed as birds and mammals. Smaller snakes can generally be handled with impunity, but the large varieties bite sharply and hold on tenaciously. All the different rattle-snakes, the moccasin-snake and adders are venomous and should be approached with great caution. All kinds are usually found coiled up basking in the sun. Black- snakes and garter-snakes frequent stone walls, piles of wood, and brush. The Eastern species of rattle-snake inhabits the loose rocks of mountains, while the large brown species of the West, frequents prairie-dog villages and gopher burrows of the plains, and the low lands between the Rocky Mountain ranges. The larger snakes can be skinned by making a short longitudinal incision in the middle of the belly, cutting the body through, and removing it in two pieces by skin- ning both ways to the head and tail. The pickle for an- imals or reptiles will preserve the skins until mounted. Small snakes should be put in pickle for preservation, with- out skinning, and arranged in jars in a natural position. Turtles are found in both fresh and salt water, though most of them are fresh water species. They can be taken with nets, or with animal bait on small, strong hooks, and preserved in pickle. Frogs can often be caught with the hands, though they are more easily taken with dredging nets, or hooked up with a triangle of large hooks. The large ones should be skinned through the mouth to prevent making a seam, and their skins can either be preserved m pickle or dried. Small frogs are usually placed in alcoholic pickle with- out skinning. Salamanders are found in fresh water ponds, and re- semble large lizards. They are readily caught with nets. 126 PBACTICAL TAXIDEBmt. and should be placed in pickle for preservation, cipeciaj jars are now made for preserving alcoholic specimens. The majority of reptiles are mounted like mammal's. Snakes- should have a single wire fastened in the skull, runnmg the full length of the body. They may be held m position by wires passing through the skin, fastened to the ma'n wire in the body. PISH, AITD HOW TO MOUB^T THEM. 127 CHAPTER XXII. FISH, AND now TO MOUNT THEM. Fish of the same species vary greatly in size and coloi in difEerent waters. Those fresh water fishes which fre- quent brackish and dark-colored waters, have the richest colors. The trout family is the most susceptible to the action of brackish water, which not only brightly colors the skin, but imparts a rich salmon tint to the flesh. A young trout removed from dark to clear spring water gradually loses its red underside and dark back, and both flesh and skin will assume a lighter color. Salmon and trout should be caaght with artificial flies at morning and evening during the summer. In swift waters, they readily take a baited hook ; in winter, they can be caught with live bait or worms through holes cut in the ice. Pike, bass, and perch, take the revolving spoon baits when trolled, particularly in cloudy weather. Nearly all other fresh water fish can be secured by ang- ling ; lightly arranged tackle should be used. Salt water fish are more hardy, and are often " fetch- nd " with the rudest tackle. Blue-fish, Spanish mackerel, and bonito or " skip-jack " will take the squid as bait, while nearly all salt water species relish moss-bunkers, killies, shrimp, sand fleas, lobster, and clams. Some kinds, such as the sturgeon, shad, and moss- bunker, can be taken with nets only. Larger fishes, not in market, such as sharks, dog-fish, skates, etc., can be caught from the deck of a yacht at anchor a few mi!es offl the ocean coast in five or more fathoms of water. Fresh fish should be used for bait and attached to large 128 PEACTICAL TAXIDBEMT. hooks with chains or wire, which prcTent the teeth from cutting the lines. Dog-fish are harmless, but sharks, though quite small, should be handled with care, as they quickly snap at the hand or leg, when struggling on deck. The porpoise is one of the most difficult fish to capture. With its great strength and sharp nose it makes his way through the strongest nets and can only be taken with a harpoon or gun. A heavy charge of No. 1 shot will kill one quickly as it rolls, bat if not secured at once, it will sink and be mutilated by the rest of the school. Wounded porpoises are inTariably hunted to death by others of their kind. They make long leaps and plow the water with tremendous speed. If a chance ofEers, the wounded yictim will often run itself high and dry on the beach to escape the sharp teeth of pursuers, or escape over a bar into shallow water where it is easily secured. When fish are to be mounted, they should be kept wet, BO that the scales will not rise up and become loose in pro- cess of stuffing. Those taken with hooks or purse nets, are usually, if carefully handled, in the finest condition, and make the best specimens when mounted. Fish se- cured in trammels or gill-nets are often so disfigured as to be useless for the taxidermist's purposes. Small fish are best prepared as specimens when pre- serred in alcoholic pickle, as they are too tender to be skinned and mounted. Some of the larger ones it is at most impossible to mount successfully, so delicate is their skin, and so small and thin their scales. Kke, large trout, salmon, and the thick-skinned fish- es, are the most easily handled. All species lose color when dried, and it is neces.Jary to re-produce the natural effects by skillful painting. In skinning, work with the fish on a piece of wet oil- cloth. The smooth surface wiU not injure the acaleS| and the moisti;re keeps them pliably. FISH, AND HOW TO MOUNT THEM, 131 Place the fish on the side, and make a longitudinal cut with a sharp pair of scissors in the middle of the side, large enough to admit of removing the body in two pieces. Cut the fleeh carefully from the skin around the incision, and sever the body through the middle. Eaise the tail portion, and skin around it to the end of the spine, severing it from the tail with a pair of crooked scissors. Skin around the remaming part of the body, severing it close to the head. Eemove the gills carefully with sharp scissors, also the eyes, by slipping a small spoon under them, and making a circular motion. Cut and scrape the skin clear of flesh, and dust it thoroughly with dry ar Collect. .188 Autumn Leaves, D:ement of 113 Stands, How to Make 153 SU)Vi\ Camp 20 Stove, How to Put Up a Camp 25 Tepth. Castiui? IfiS Tent, Use of a 25 Trap Cai,'e, the 37 Traps, Care of 33 Traps, How to Put; Out a Line of. ,. 34 Traps, to Select 31 Traps, TTsefuIness of 83 Triips. When to Set 33 Tree, Cotton 161 Tree, Papier-mach6 162 Trees, Artificial 161 Trees, Paper 163 Turtles 125 Variation of Size and Plumage of Birdsof the Same Species 95 Variation in Size and Color of Fish of the Same Species in Difft^rent Waters U7 Vase, How to Make Nautilus" 178 Vessels for Coastinir 31 Veteran Camper in the Woods 22 Wan;ons Should be Employed on the Plains 31 Wax, Casting with 169 Wax, Modelling: with 167 Wood for Camp Use 26 Wood in aFire-piace, How to Econ- omize , 29 STANDARD BOOKS PUBLISHED BY ORANGE JUDD COMPANY NEW YORK CHICAGO Ashland Building People's Gas Building 315-321 Fourth Avenue ISO Michigan Avenue An^ of these books will be sent by mail, postpaid, to, any part of the world, on receipt of catalog price. We are always happy to correspond with our patrons, and cordially invite them to address us on any matter pertaining to rural books. Send for our large illustrated catalog, free on appli- cation. First Principles of Soil Fertility By Alfred Vivian. There is no subject of more vital importance to the farmer than that of the best method of maintaining the fertility of the soil. The very evident decrease in the fertility of those soils which have been under cultivation for a number of years, combined with the increased competition and the advanced price of labor, have convinced the intelligent farmer that the agriculture of the future must be based upon more rational practices than those which have been followed in the past. We have felt for some time that there was a place for a brief, and at the same time comprehensive, treatise on this important subject of Soil Fertility. Professor Vivian's experience as a teacher in the short winter courses has admirably fitted him to present this matter in a popular style. In this little book he has given the gist of the subject in plain language, practically devoid of technical and scientific terms. It is pre-eminently a "First Book," and will be found especially valuable to those who desire an introduction to the subject, and who intend to do subse- quent reading. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 265 pages. Cloth. Net, $1.00 The Study of Corn By Prof. V. M. Shoesmith. A most helpful book to all farmers and students interested in the selection and im- provement of corn. It is profusely illustrated from photo- graphs, all of which carry their own story and contribute their part in making pictures and text matter a clear, con- cise and interesting study of corn. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 100 pages. Cloth- . . • Net, $0.50 The Management and Feeding of Cattle By Prof. Thomas Shaw. The place for this book will be at once apparent when it is stated that it is the first book that has ever been written which discusses the man- agement and feeding of cattle, from the birth of the calf until it has fulfilled its mission in life, whether on the block or at the pail. The book is handsomely printed on fine paper, from large, clear type. Fully illustrated. S}4x8 inches. 496 pages. Cloth Net, $2.00 The Farmer's Veterinarian By Charlfs William Burkett. This book abounds in helpful suggestions and valuable information for the most successful treatment of ills and accidents, and disease troubles. A practical treatise on the diseases of farm stock; containing brief and popular advice on the, nature, cause and treatment of disease, the common ailments and the care and management of stock when sick. It is profusely illustrated, containing a number of halftone illustrations, and a great many drawings picturing diseases, their symptoms and familiar attitudes assumed by farm animals when affected with disease, and presents, for the first time, a plain, practical and satisfactory guide for farmers who are interested in the common diseases of the farm. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 288 pages. Cloth. Net, $1.50. First Lessons in Dairying By Hubert E. Van Norman. This splendid little book has been written from a practical point of view, to fill a place in dairy literature long needed. It is designed primarily as a practical guide to successful dairying, an elementary text-book for colleges and for use especially in short-course classes. It embodies underlying principles involved in the handling of milk, delivery to factory, ship- ping station, and the manufacture of butter on the farm. It is written in a simple, popular way, being free from tech- nical terms, and is easily understood by the average farm boy. The book is just the thing for the every-day dairy- man, and should be in the hands of every farmer in the country. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 100 pages. Cloth. Net, $0.50. A Dairy Laboratory Guide By H. E. Ross. While the book is intended primarily for use in the laboratory, it should be of value to the practical dairyman. The time has come when the suc- cessful dairyman must study his business from a purely scientific point of view, and in this book the scientific principles, upon which dairy industry is based, are stated clearly and simply, and wherever it is possible, these prin- ciples are illustrated by practical problems and examples. 90 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth Net, $0.50 Profitable Stock Raising By Clarence A. Shamel. This book covers fully the principles of breeding and feeding for both fat stock and dairying type. It tells of sheep and mutton raising, hot house lambs, the swine industry and the horse market. Finally, he tells of the preparation of stock for the market and how to prepare it so that it will bring a high market price. Live stock is the most important feature of farm life, and statistics show a production far short of the actual requirements. There are many problems to be faced in the profitable production of stock, and these are fully and comprehensively covered in Mr. Shamel's new book. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 288 pages. Cloth. Net, $i.So The B.usiness of Dairying By C. B. Lane. The author of this practical little book is to be congratulated on the successful manner in which he has treated so important a subject. It has been pre- pared ior the use of dairy students, producers and handlers of milk, and all who make dairying a business. Its pur- pose is to present in a clear and concise manner various business methods and systems which will help the dairy- man to reap greater profits. This book meets the needs of the average dairy farmer, and if carefully followed will lead to successful dairying. It may also be used as an elementary textbook for colleges, and especially in short- course classes. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 300 pages. Cloth. Net, $i.2S Questions and Answers on Buttermaking By Chas a. Publow. This book is entirely different from the usual type of dairy books, and is undoubtedly in a class by itself. The entire subject of butter-making in all its branches has been most thoroughly treated, and many new and important features have been added. The tests for moisture, salt and acid have received special attention, as have also the questions on cream separa- tion, pasteurization, commercial starters, cream ripening, cream overrun, marketing of butter, and creamery man- agement. Illustrated. 3^7 inches. 100 pages. Cloth, Net, $0.50 Questions and Answers on Milk and Milk Testing By Chas. a. Publow, and Hugh C. Troy. A book that no student in the dairy industry can afford to be without. No other treatise of its kind is available, and no book of its size gives so much practical and useful information in the study of milk and milk products. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 100 pages. Clothe > Net, $0.50 in Soils By Chasles William Burkett, Director Kansas Agri- cultural Experiment Station. The most complete and popular work of the kind ever published. As a rule, a book of this sort is dry and uninteresting, but in this case it reads like a novel. The author has put into it his in- dividuality. The story of the properties of the soils, their improvement and management, as well as a discussion of the problems of crop growing and crop feeding, make this book equally valuable to the farmer, student and teacher. Illustrated. 303 pages. Sj^x8 inches. Cloth. . Net, $1.25 Weeds of the Farm Garden By L. H. Pammel. The enormous losses, amounting to several hundred million dollars annually in the United States, caused by weeds stimulate us to adopt a better system of agriculture. The weed question is, therefore a most irnportant and vital one for American farmers This treatise will enable the farmer to treat his field to remove weeds. The book is profusely illustrated by photo- graphs and drawings made expressly for this work, and will prove invaluable to every farmer, land owner, gar- dener and park superintendent. 5x7 inches. 300 pages. Cloth Net, $1.50 Farm Machinery and Farm Motors By J. B. Davidson and L. W. Chase. Farm Machinery and Farm Motors is the first American book published on the subject of Farm Machinery since that written by J. J. Thomas in 1867. This was before the development of many of the more important farm machines, and the general application of power to the work of the farm. Modern farm machinery is indispensable in present-day farming operations, and a practical book like Farm Ma- chinery and Farm Motors will fill a much-felt need. The book has been written from lectures used by the authors before their classes for several years, and which were pre- pared from practical experience and a thorough review of the literature pertaining to the subject. Although written (primarily as a text-book, it is equally useful for the prac- ) tical farmer. Profusely illustrated. 55^x8 inches. 520 pages. Cloth Net, $2.00 The Book of Wheat I By P. T. DoNDLiNGER. This book comprises a complete study of everything pertaining to wheat. It is the work of a student of economic as well as agricultural condi- tions, well fitted by the broad experience in both practical and theoretical lines to tell the whole story in a condensed form. It is designed for the farmer, the teacher, and the student as well. Illustrated. Sj^xS inches. 370 pages. Cloth. ... , .... Net, $2.00 (4X