A^ra.;9'b' c:b.1 H 8.r\d b o o k. '7(- yf.yfAi\p Cornell XDlnivetsit^ XibraiMp OF THE mew l^orF? State College of agriculture 9 ^._i,3io. ilnljil. 3778 = 1^ =o I CO Ir^ = 05 I CM in sO = 03 ICO m The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003297607 MY GARDENER: Rayleigh Nueseeiks, Ratleigh. {Previously 25 years Head Gardener at Longford, Castle, Salisbury.) AITTHOE OF '■Potato Culture for tlie 3IiU'wn." '• Flowers and Flower Culture" SECOND EDITION. fLDittron: EYRE AND SPOTTISWOODE, Government amd General Publishers, EAST HARDING STREET, E.G. (NEAB ST. BEIDE STEEET.) 1900. [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.] CONTENTS. PA&E Introductory ...1 Culture of Vegetables .... 5 Cultural Work in the Kitchen Gatjden and Allotments 114 Culture of Fruit - - - 128 Culture of Flowers - -' - - 160 (^For Details see the Index, pages 269-279.) a 2 PEEEACE TO SECOND EDITION. The first edition of " My Gaedenee " Vjeing exliausted, I therefore gladly embrace the opportunity afforded me, in revising the work for the present issue, to express my grateful acknowledgments of the favourable manner in which the first edition of " My Gaedenee " has been referred to by the metropolitan and provincial press. ' I also beg to thank the many correspondents for the kind remarks which they addressed to me respecting the work. In the present issue suggestions kindly made by eminent trade horticulturists have received due attention, and fresh articles have been added to the work. February 1900. H. W. W. MY GARDENEE: A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK FOU THE MILLION. INTRODUCTORY. /~\ WING- to the fact of my having had a practical and intimate ^-^ acquaintanceship of many years' standing with the management of Cottage Garden Show Societies, including the inspection of the kitchen gardens, garden fronts and allotments belonging to the individual cottages situated in the several parishes included in the area of the respective societies, and subsequently judging the produce from same in the exhibition tents, I have become thoroughly acquainted with the people's lack of cultural skill on the one hand, and their willingness to learn on the other ; and as the result of verbal instructions given to my industrious friends on such occasions, as to the best and most profitable kinds and varieties of vegetables, fruits and flowers to grow, together with practical hints on their culture and the setting up of their produce to the best advantage on the exhibition tables, I annually have the satisfaction of seeing the good use they have made of the' cultural knowledge thus acquired. I may say here that all the varieties of peas, potatoes and other kinds of vegetables recommended in this work have been found to be quite as suitable and profitable for growing in cottage gardens and allotments as they prove to be for gentlemen's gardens. It is quite an erroneous idea to suppose that garden standard varieties are not suitable for the poor man's garden and allotment. The turning to such good account of the brief and .hastily-furnished information indicated above has, in connection with appeals from corre- spondents, suggested to my mind the idea of writing " Mr Gardener." And in this work I shall endeavour to treat the cultm'al details in as practical, simple, and brief a manner as possible consistent with making a p. 8322. ^ 2 MY GABDENERl: raj meauiug clear, so that the iDStruetions therein given may come within the comprehension of all classes and ages, from school children ipwards, who may consult its pages. The success attending the acquirement of a better knowledge of the cultivation of vegetables, bush fruits and strawberries during the last twenty years, has, from a commercial as well as a cultural point of view, reached a position little thought of a few years ago. The business of the market gardener as a paying concern is annually increasing in importance and extent. As a proof of this assertion I need only say that nearly all the cultivated land within a measurable distance of our large towns is devoted to the production of fresh, wholesome vegetables and small fruits, to supply the requirements of the inhabitants in this respect with nutritious and healthy food — the ground within the circumscribed space being much too valuable for cropping with agricultural produce. And I doubt not that as time goes on the area now occupied with vegetable plants and fruit trees will be still greatly extended. The passing of the Allotment Holdings Act in 1887 has been pro- ductive of much good in providing means by which habits of industry, self-help, and temperance have been and are still being greatly promoted among the people. It must be a source of great pleasure and satisfaction to the promoters of that Bill, as it is to millions of people throughout the country, to witness during the spring, . summer, and early autumn evenings the allotment holders throughout the country busily engaged in the sowing, planting and cultivation of their crops, the men being frequently assisted in the remunerative and healthy employment by their children, who thus acquire an early love and knowledge of the cultivation of vegetables, ordinary fruits and flowers. Evenings so profitably spent by men, women and children in studying the habits and administrating to the requirements of Nature's produce — vegetable plants, fruit-trees and flowers — have an elevating and refining influence upon the people at large. Since the passing of the above beneficial Act, industrious cottagers and artisans not only grow sufiicient whole- some vegetables and small fruits for themselves and families, but frequently dispose of surplus produce in the nearest market town, suflicient to defray cost of seed, labour and rent. This highly satisfactory state of things will continue to improve in proportion to the attainment of cultural knowledge acquired by the millions from practically-written and easily-understood books and papers on IhTROBV CTOHY- 3 gardening, the theory of which might, with considerable advantage to the community at large, be taught in elementary schools. In every well-thought-out scheme or branch of industry the details connected therewith are governed by general principles or lines upon which the whole machinery is regulated to run as smoothly and success- fully as possible. In the matter of gardening, as well as farming, success, apart from the possession of cultural skill and perseverance on the part of those engaged in the work, depends in a great measure upon the character of the climate, situation^ and nature of the soil. In the matter of climate, of course, people living in the southern and western parts of the country, or county, are more favourably situated as regards growth and ripening of crops than those residing in other portions of it are. And in some cases people residing in the same village are more favourably situated in the matter of soil and situation than their neighbours are. They are, therefore, sure to secure earlier and later supplies of vegetables, ^s well as earlier gatherings of strawberries and bush fruits, than can be obtained by their less fortunate, though equally skilful and painstaking, neighbours. A light, yellow loam, from 1 5 to 30 in. deep, resting upon a limestone or gravelly subsoil, sloping to the south or west and partly protected from the north and east, is alike favourable to the growth of all kinds of vegetables, fruits and flowers generally, fertilisers being applied when considered necessary. However, during dry, hot seasons, not only better crops are obtained from a deep loam inclining to be heavy rather than light, but such plants as peas, beans, cauliflowers, strawberries and bush fruits — that is, gooseberries, raspberries and currants — continue longer in bearing, on account of the moist nature of the soil, than would be the case in loam of a lighter texture. But the latter description of soil, taking the weather one year with another, is not only more easily worked, but also yields more satisfactory crops. In this work I will indicate the best kinds and varieties of vegetables and hardy fruits and flowers to grow, and how to grow them. I will give the botanical name of each vegetable plant in parentheses under- neath each sort of plant mentioned, treating them alphabetically. I also intend giving in " Mr Gardener " series of paragraphs indicating the manner in which the most ordinary kind of garden and allotment work should be done, for no matter liowever simple any kind of work may be, there is always a right and a wrong way of doing A 2 4 MT GARDENMR. it. Moreover, it is by the mastering of small details that great results are achieved. Trusting that the feelings which have led to my writing " My Gaedenee " — namely, the promoting of a better knowledge of garden- ing among the people — may be realised. H. W. W. September 1891. ( 5 ) THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. ARTICHOKE. {Cynara scolymus.) This is a hardy perennial plant, a native of Barbary and the south of Europe. It is cultivated for the immature flower heads, of which the base of the leaf, or scale, and the fleshy receptacle are the parts used. The soil which the artichoke prefers is a deep, free soil, such as a sandy loam, and an open situation. The ground in which it is intended to be grown should be liberally manured and trenched at least 2 ft. deep, mixing the manure with the soil in the process of trenching. If the natural soil should be of a heavy, clayey nature, it would be advisable to open a few trenches at 3 ft. from centre to centre, 2 ft. wide, and the same depth, some time between October and January, and fill them with a mixture of dung and mould preparatory to setting the plants therein in the spring. Propagation and Planting, — The plant is propagated by suckers, which spring freely from the old stools or plants towards the end of March or early in April. Usually from six to twelve suckers are produced by each plant. As soon as the leaves of these have attained a length of 8 or 9 in., two or three of those (round the outside of stools) having the greatest number of suckers should be taken ofi", with a few root-fibres attached. These offsets should then be planted with a garden trowel in clumps of three plants, each set triangularly 7 or 8 in. from plant to plant. These clumps are made 3 ft. apart between the rows, and at the same distance from clump to clump in the row. In planting, make the soil firm about each plant with the hands, after which, in the absence of rain, they should be watered to settle the soil about the roots, repeating the application at intervals of three or four days until the roots have taken to the soil and the plants begin to grow. They should be planted about 4 in. deep, after which the ground between the rows and plants should be forked over and a surface-dressing of manure, of the thickness of 3 in., should be laid on the soil. These plants will yield a good supply of artichokes in the autumn, aiid long after those planted a year or two previously have ceased to bear. It is, therefore, a good plan to destroy a row or two of old plants every year, and to plant an equal number of rows of young ones. The- offset, or sucker plants, may also be used for making good any vacancies that may have been occasioned amongst the established 6 MY GABDENSB : plantations during the winter. In the southern parts of the kingdom artichokes will he fit to cut daring ordinary seasons the last week in June or the first week in July, and in the northern parts ten or fifteen days later. The heads should be cut before the crown or top leaves show signs of parting, before they push into flower, otherwise they will be unfit for use. After Treatment. —Keep the beds free from weeds during the summer and autumn. As soon as the crop from each of the flower- stems is taken they should be cut down, and all dead 'leaves should be removed at the same time. Before frost sets in — say, some time in November — a good thickness of stable-litter should be wrapped well round each plant close to the ground, and up nearly to the top of the leaves, as a protection from frost, following this with a surface- dressing of half-rotten dung between the plants. This should be forked into the ground the following March or April, when, as already stated, blanks in the plantations^ caused by frost or other cause, should be filled up in the manner indicated. Varieties. — The varieties cultivated in this country are : — 1. Globe Artichoke. — This has a dull, purplish round head, with the scales turned in at the top. It is the variety most commonly cultivated in this country. 2. Green or French Ar- tichoke. — This variety has a conical head, with scales pointed and turned out- wards. 3. Purple Artichoke has a medium-sized head, the scales pointed, green at the base, but tinged with purplish-red on the outside at the tips. It is eai'lier than the preceding varieties, but the heads are not quite so large. Fig. 1. GLOBE ARTICHOKE. ASPARAGUS. (Asparagus officinalis.} This hardy perennial is a native of the sea coasts pf various countries in Europe and Asia. It is also said to grow wild in the Isle of Portland, THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. in the fens of Lincolnshire, and sparingly on Seaton Links, near Edin- burgh. The asparagus plant consists of a cluster of fleshy roots con- nected at the stem, where a quan- tity of buds is formed, from which shoots annually push. It is propa- gated from seed. Raising roung Plants. — Sow the first week in April in drills 2 in. deep and 12 in. apart, in light, rich, and sandy soil, to sup- ply young plants for transplanting the following year into permanent beds. The seed should be sown thinly — say, \ in. between each — in the drills, the soil closed over them with the feet, trodden, and afterwards raked over with an ordinary-sized iron rake. When the young plants come up they should be kept free from weeds, and when they become yellow (ripe), about the end of October, they should be cut down to within a couple of inches of the ground, and covered with a coating, 3 in. deep, of rotten dung as a protection from frost ; ol herwise the fleshy roots of the plants, being close to the surface of the soil, would be injured in the event of severe frost. Preparing the Ground, — With regard to the kind of soil suitable for asparagus, I have seen first-rate " grass " cut from plants growing in a piece of cultivated black bog in Ireland, whilst from plantations made in strong Worcestershire loam, enriched with manure, the very best results have been secured. However, let the soil be light or heavy, it should be trenched to a uniform depth of from 2 to 3 ft., according as the soil is shallow or deep, and a liberal dressing of good rotten manure should be added as the work proceeds. Trenching is a more convenient and a much better way of doing the work than digging the ground two spits deep. This is how it is done : the necessary quantity of manure having been previously wheeled on to the plot of ground to be trenched, open a space at one end from 2 to 3 ft. wide, according to the depth of soil ; wheel the excavated soil to the other end of the plot to fill in the last trench with. If the bottom spit, or substratum, is poor, only loosen and level it, putting over it a good thickness of short rotten dung, say, from 3 to 5 in. thick. This done, proceed to' open the next trench by putting the top spit of soil over the dung in the Fig. 2. ASPARAGUS. 8 jur gaudeneh: bottom of the one thus made, breaking it with a spade as the work is proceeded with. Follow this with another layer of manure above the first layer, then another spit of soil, together with shovellings, giving a third application of manure, and over this the remaining portion of the soil to form the depth indicated. The bottom of this trench should also be loosened, and the operations carried out as in the previous case until the whole plot of ground is trenched. The sooner the trenching is done in the autumn or early winter months the better, so as to afford ample time for the soil to settle down, as well as for its exposure to the weather before planting time arrives. Planting. — Mark off the necessary number of beds at 4 ft. wide, with an alley or pathway 2 ft. wide between each bed. At each end of the beds drive two stout pieces of wood, about 2\ ft. long, well into the ground, so as to preserve the width of each bed and alley. This done, fork the bed over, and afterwards throw up a little of the soil out of the / alleys on to the beds, breaking and levelling this with a rake. Then draw three drills about 4 in. deep the entire length of each bed with a draw-hoe — one in the centre and one on either side at 14 in. from the centre one — and in these plant the roots, 18 in. asunder in the row, taking half of the roots in one hand and half in the other, the better to place them along the bottom of the drill, with the crown or centre of the fleshy roots slightly raised. Press the soil firnily about the roots with the hand, and then cover the surface of the soil with a couple of inches thick of decayed manure. This " mulching," as it is called by profes- sional gardeners, will preserve the roots in a healthy growing state, the benefit being noticeable in a marked degree should a spell of fine, dry weather follow the planting period. In planting, set the first plant in the middle row, at 9 in. from the end, and begin planting those in each of the other two rows on either side at 18 in. from the end of the rows. This will afford more room to the plants to grow than if they were planted opposite to each other. The planting should be done before the plants have pushed into growth ; this varies from the end of March to the middle of April, according as the season and situation are early or late. Choose a showery day for planting the roots, but, in the absence of rain at that time, water must be given at the roots, using a garden watering-can having a rose or spray distributor on the pipe to settle the soil about the roots. If extra large asparagus be desired some four years after planting, only two rows of plants should be put in each bed. The rows should be 15 in. from the alleys, and the roots should be planted, as already advised, 18 in. apart in the drills, and in the manner recommended above. Varieties. — Connover's Colossal is a very large and early variety fit to cut two years after sowing. Reading Giant is another excellent variety. Three ounces of seed will be enough to sow a drill 50 ft long. THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 9 Sammer and Autumn Treatment. — This consists in keeping the beds free from weeds, and, in tiie case of established plantations of asparagus, free from seedling plants, which should be pulled up as soon as they appear. These seedlings spring from ripe seed dropped off the plants the previous autumn, and if they were allowed to remain they would year by year render the permanent plants less productive and the produce inferior. As soon as the cane-like stems of the plants are ripe — usually towards the end of October — cut them off close to the ground, saving a few of the best berried ones for seed, suspending them in a dry, airy shed for a few weeks, when they may be shelled, the seed washed in a fine sieve, dried, and put away for future use. This done, draw a little of the surface soil off the bed into the alleys, and place on instead a 3-in. coat of the best manure at command. This should be covered with a depth of 3 or 4 in. of soil from the said alleys early the following March, breaking it fine as the work proceeds, and afterwards rake over the surface of the beds with a mediuni-sized iron rake. Cutting Asparagus. — This must be done with care, otherwise a large percentage of the heads will be destroyed before they appear through the soil. The knife should be worked carefully down to the base of the stem to be cut, so as not to injure any neighbouring undeveloped growths. When the asparagus heads are 2 in. above the soil, cut them, working the knife, as already advised, carefully down to the base of the stem. These will be about 7 in. long when cut, the top couple of inches (which appear above the soil) being green, and the remainder blanched white. The heads should then be washed, " sized," that is, the small heads should not be mixed with the large ones, and tied up in bundles, consisting of from 25 to 100 heads, and then be stood on end in saucers containing a little water in a cool cellar or shed, till required for use. As a rule, only the top 2 in. of the asparagus heads are fit to eat, the remaining portion being tough and stringy. Cutting should be discontinued in the southern parts of England about the middle of June, and in the northern parts a fortnight later, so as to allow the plants time to grow up to make foliage, and, consequently, fresh roots, and thus to acquire more vigour for the ensuing year. BASIL. {^Ocymum.^ Theke are two varieties of the basil cultivated for their aromatic leaves, which, with the tops of the plant, are used for flavouring soups, sauces and stews, and in other ways. The plants are cut when coming into flower, dried in the shade, and afterwards tied together in small bundles and hung up in a dry shed or cupboard, or placed in paper bags, until required for use. 10 MTOABDENEa. The species referred to above are : — 1. Common Sweet Basil (0. basilicwn). 2. Bush Basil (0. mmimuni). These are both annuals, and, being natives of the East Indies, are tender, and therefore require growing in a sunny situation. They are both raised from seed. The seed should be sown in heat in a pan early in April, and be transplanted about the middle of May, in light, rich soil in rows 1 ft. apart and about 9 in. from plant to plant in the row, making the soil moderately firm about the roots, and then giving water to settle the soil. BROAD BEANS. i^Faha vulgaris.) The broad bean is an annual, a native of the East, although of what part is uncertain, but it is generally believed to belong to Persia. There are a great number of varieties of the broad bean cultivated in this country, but, as many of these are very similar, if not identical, and good results can be secured from the cultivation of a few well-chosen and previously-tested varieties, I shall- content myself with particularising only the very best and most profitable varieties, which are given below. Soil. — The bean will grow comparatively well in an ordinary garden soil, but, like most garden crops, it does best in a deep, sandy loam, as it has a long, tapering root extending downwards in a perpendicular directiou to a depth of about 18 in. Therefore, shallow soils are not suitable for its profitable culture. Preparing the SoU. — If the nature and condition of the soil is not favourable to the growth of the bean, something should be done with a view to improving it. If it is too stiff, much may be done, if the garden is properly drained, by the liberal use of leaf -mould and chalk, which should be well mixed, with it, and the land in that case should be ridged up roughly during the winter, so as to fully expose it to the influence of frost. On the other hand, if the soil is too light, recourse should be had to the use of clay, roadside parings, and such like materials, which will produce a beneficial change in its quality. The ridges should be levelled a few days before the ground is sown. Sowing. — About the middle of November, make a sowing of Early Mazagan, in a dry, warm situation^ sheltered from the north, in drills 3 in. deep, and 2 ft. apart. Plant the beans zig-zEig-in the drills, 3 in. asunder. Then return the soil removed in tbtf formation of the drills over them with the feet, and, if it is o£-«- iight nature, tread and rake it over. A sowing of Seville LOBgpod may be made the end of January, weather permitting, allowing from 2 to 3 ft. between the THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 11 rows and 4 in. between the beans in the drills, sowing Mammotli Long^od the third week in February, and Prolific Longpod and Leviathan a month later, for main crop, allowing 3 ft. between the rows of these, and again in April and May for succession, making a sowing of Seville Longpod in a warm situation in June for a late crop. After Treatment. — As soon as the beans are a couple of inches above ground they should have a little soil drawn up to them on either side of the row, following this with a few inches thick of short dung, extending 9 or 10 in. from the rows each side, and, in the case of the early sow- ing, the whole space between the ranks should be covered, in ordei to prevent the frost from penetrating the soil about the roots of the plants. In summer this mulching or surface-dressing with manure will have a fourfold eflfect, namely, (1) it will conserve the moisture at the roots ; (2) keep the soil about them in an equable condition ; (3) every time water is applied thereat it will wash the constituents of the manure down to the roots ; and (4) it will keep the plants in bearing longer and tend to the production of heavier crops of better produce than could otherwise be secured. These remarks apply with equal force to ranks of dwarf and runner beans, as well as peas. When the haulms of the Early Mazagan have attained to a height of 2 ft., piuch off" the tips, serving the other varieties the same when the haulms have reached 3 ft., the object being to hasten the process of podding. Bean-sticks should be tied horizontally, at 2 ft. from the ground, to stoutish upright sticks pushed well into the ground on either side of the ranks, and be tied together to the upright sticks, as a support to the heavily-laden haulms. Failing the bean- sticks, a stout string run along on each side of the rows, and given a turn round a few upright sticks, will answer the same purpose, though not so well, as the haulms rubbing against the string are liable to get cut. The plants should be kept well supplied with water at the roots during dry, warm weather. M o ■< o « « o 1 2 MY GABDBNEB : otherwise they will not grow so freely as they ought to, Dor continue in bearing so long. The beans should be gathered for use before the pods lose their fresh green colour. Any old pods remaining on the plants after those fit for table have been gathered should be saved for seed. If the ground is required immediately for other crops, the haulms can be pulled up and placed in the sun until the seed is properly ripened, when they should be picked off' the stems, shelled, and stored away, labelling each variety. Varieties. — 1. Early Mazagau, although classed in many seed cata- logues as being the earliest bean, is, nevertheless, not so early as Seville Longpod by a week, but it is of excellent quality, and is more manageable for growing on borders and other small spaces than the more roTjust-growing varieties. It is, moreover, a very heavy cropper, and quite hardy, and for these reasons, although the pods are small, I place it first on the list. 2. Seville Longpod. — Stems 2 to 3 ft. high, according as the ground is poor or rich, moderately robust and sparingly branched ; pods 7 to 9 in. long, containing about six beans of the best quality. 3. Giant Wonder Bean is an extraordinary large and long-podded variety, nearly as early as Seville Longpod, and of fine flavour. 4. Mammoth Longpod. — This is a strong-growing variety. The long, broad pods, which are produced abundantly, sometimes attain the length of 16 in. 5. Improved Wiadsor is a great improvement on the old variety. The pods are broad, of a dq,rk green colour, and are produced with great freedom. ■ 6. Leviathan is a wonderfully robust-growing variety, and an im- inense cropper, the pods frequently reaching a length of 16 in. under good cultivation. Other varieties, such as Beck's Dwarf Green Gem, and GreeH Wind- sor, are also well worth growing. Insect Attacks. — The bean is subject to the attacks of many enemies ; the most destructive of these is the " blight," caused by the Dolphin Fly {Aphis fab(E). This insect attacks tbeyouilg shoots and the leaves on the top of the plant, usually when the beans are beginning to swell in their pods. The infested parts should be cut off" and burnt im- mediately the presence of the fly has been discovered, because if thrown on the ground the insects will crawl on to the growing plants and renew their work of destruction. If these depredators were allowed to go unchecked, in a short time nothing but the bare blackened stem of the plants would remain. Mice sometimes attack the beans before they appear above the ground, but these can be trapped. In order to prevent these attacks, some cultivators sow chopped furze in the drills with the beans. A quart of beans will sow a row 20 yards long. THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 13 DWARF, or KIDNEY BEAN. {Phaseolus vulgaris.) The kidney bean, also called French bean in gardens, is a tender annual, a native of India, and is probably indigenous to Cashmere and other northern parts of that territory. It is one of the most esteemed and productive of garden summer vegetables, as a large amount of produce may be taken from a comparatively small piece of ground within the space of six to eight weeks from the time of sowing. Soil. — Any light, rich soil, resting upon a gravelly subsoil, will suit the requirements of this bean, but the situation should be warm and sheltered from the north. A border in front of a south wall or wooden fence is the most desirable position. If the ground has not been well manured for the previous crop, short, well-rotted dung should be dug into the ground some time previous to depositing the seed. Time and Hauuer of Sowing. — Make the first sowing about the middle of April in the southern parts of the kingdom, and ten or fifteen days later in the northern parts, in drills 3 in. deep and 2 ft. asunder, allowing 3 in. from seed to seed in the row. Then close the soil in over the seed and tread and rake it over. In order to maintain a good succession of this much-prized second-course vegetablcj a sowing, more or less extensive, according to the demand for the same, should be made every fortnight or three weeks up to the middle or end of July, according as the climate is warm or cold. As soon as the beri,ns are 2 or 3 in. above ground, they should have a little soil drawn up to them on each side the row, and when they come into flower the points should be pinched off the plants to hasten the process of podding. It would be advisable in case of frost to have some kind of protection at hand for the first and last sowing, such as a few mats, rick-cloths, &c., supported by a temporary framework. For the main crop, Canadian Wonder should be sown. The beans should be picked before the seed show through the pods ; and when they become too old for cooking purposes, and the pods are turned brown, they should be saved for seed, the haulms being cleared away and the ground cropped with lettuce or endive. One pint of seed will be sufficient to sow a row 27 yards long. If a garden frame is available, plants may be raised in small pots and boxes, for transplanting out of doors as soon in May as may be considered safe. Gatherings may, in this case, be made a fortnight earlier than could be obtained from plants I'rom seed sown in the drills. Insect Attacks. — Eed Spider {Acarus telarius) is the most formidable enemy of the kidney bean. If its progress is not checked, these pests will in a very short time destroy the leaves and ultimately kill the u jVY GARDENER: plants. Their presence on the plants is to be attributed to a dry, hot atmosphere, and a deficiency of moisture at the roots. The remedy is to syringe the plants thoroughly in the evening, and to give plenty ot ■water at the roots during hot summers. Varieties. — The best va- rieties of the kidney bean are : — 1. Ne Plus Ultra.— One of , the earliest, shortest, and most productive beans grown. It is of compact habit, having from 60 to 70 good-sized pods on each plant. . 2. Longsword is an ex- ceedingly fine bean, - being long, handsome, heavy cropper, and good quality. 3. Canadian Wonder (Selected) is an improve- ment on the old Canadian Wonder bean. The pods are of immense length, very handsome, and are fit for use several days earlier than that good old variety, although sown at the same time. 4. Osborn's Forcing.^ — A dwarf and very productive variety, having a good hardy constitution. Fig, i. NE PLUS ULTRA BEAN. CLIMBING, or RUNNER BEANS. (JPhaseolus multiflorus.) This half-hardy perennial is a native of South America. There are very few cottage gardens in this country that do not contain one or more rows of scarlet runners in the summer and autumn months. But, well known as the plant undoubtedly is, it is not generally known that it is a perennial, having tuberous roots like the dahlia, and these, after having been kept in a dry, cool place, out of the reach of frost during the winter, and planted out in the middle or about the third week in April, TUB CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 15 will come into bearing earlier in the season than plants raised from seed sown at the same time. The roots of the scarlet runner are poisonous. The best varieties to grow are : — 1. "A. 1." — This is a prodigious cropper, producing long, straight pods of excellent quality. 2. Elephant (new) is twice the size of the ordinary runner, very productive, and good in quality. 3. Excelsior Kiumer is another greatly improved type of scarlet- runner bean. Other good varieties are Ne Plus Ultra, Painted. Lady (or York and Lancaster), and Champion Scarlet. SoU. —The scarlet runner will succeed in any ordinarily good soil, but if it is grown in a light, sandy, and moderately rich loam, the heaviest crops and finest produce "will be secured. Time and Manner of Sowing. — The third week in April wiU be soon enough to make the first sowing in the south, and ten or twelve days later in the north. Where stout bean-sticks from 10 to 20 ft. high can be had, this bean should be sown in drills running east and west, 3 in. deep, 8 ft. apart, and from 9 to 12 in. apart in the row. The first drill should be sown at the north side of those which are to follow, so that the row of plants from which all the eatable produce has been gathered may afford protection in the autumn to those in full bearing. When the " runner beans " are about 4 in. high they should have a little soil drawn up to them on either side, and then be staked, putting a stick on each side of the plants. These, if of the length above indicated, should be braced together by placing a serips of bean-sticks horizontally on each side, at about 6 ft. from the ground, and securing them in that position by a series of cross ties made of tarred string, so as to prevent their being affected by rough winds. Unlike other beans, the plants should not be pinched, but, on the contrary, they should be allowed to grow to their full height, and as the beans are gathered from the lower portion of the plant others will form and develop higher up, and will continue to do so until the plants have reached the top of the supports or have been cut down by frost. Thus grown, two sowings will be ample, one at the time named above, and the other two months later. Where long sticks cannot be obtained, the seed may be sown in drills at from 4 to 6 ft. apart, according to the length of the sticks. A row or two of cauliflower or cabbage may be planted between the rows, and the beans may be kept pinched to that height. A second sowing may be made the third week in May, and a third and fourth a month later. Another plan, that has the advantage of saving space, and at the same time affording a striking example of the useful and ornamental combined, is to sow the seed on either side of a central walk, and train the plants into an arch by tying 16 ^VT GABDENES. : the tops of the bean-sticks together overhead, thereby forming an ornameQtal arbour and pleasant retreat from the heat of the summer's sun. The plants require plenty of water being given them at the roots during hot, dry weather, especially at the time the pods are forming and swelling. The taking of the crop and saving seeds are carried out in the same manner as advised in the case of the kidney bean. CLIMBING FRENCH BEAN. {Phaseolus Scandens.) Until about six years ago the fact of a French bean having attained to a height of 6 or 7 ft. was an unheard-of occurrence in the horticultural world, although the bean in question had been selected from Canadian Wonder and grown pretty largely by the present writer for about twelve years before it was grown in the Royal Horticultural Society's Trial Gardens at Chiswick, where it obtained a first-class certificate and was put in commerce the following spring. The seed should be sown at the same date and in the manner advised for the kidney bean, allowing 4 ft., instead of 2, between the rows where more than one is grown side by side. When the plants have attained to a height of about 3 in. above ground, put a row of pea or bean-sticks from 6 to 7 ft. long on either side for the plants to climb up. And then lay on a good dressing of half -rotted, manure, to the depth of 4 in. and about 12 in. wide on either side the rows of plants. Thus treated, I have had the bean attain to|a height of 8 ft., yielding from bottom and top good supplies of long, handsome pods of the Canadian Wonder type and fine in quality, from the middle of July until the plants were nipped by autumn frosts. It is a prodigious cropper when given generous treatment in the way of a fairly light, ' well-enriched ground to grow in. BEET-ROOT. {Beta vulgaris.) Is a hardy biennial and a native of the sea coast of the south of Europe and from it numerous varieties have been propagated. Where seed is saved from two or more varieties growing a short distance from each other, the seedlings will partake more or less of the character of both or all of those varieties. This is caused by the bees carrying the pollen from one variety to another in their search for honey. Hence the multi- plicity of new varieties, some of which — those resulting from careful THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 17 tybridisatioQ — are improvements on the old varieties, whilst many, or most of the others would be better left out of seed-lists altogether ; they only perplex those not well versed in the subject in the making out of their seed-lists. It is the same with all kinds of vegetables ; there are too many varieties by half enumerated in trade-lists. Varieties. — ^The following well-tested varieties may be relied upon for all culinary purposes : — 1 . Perfection is of medium size, rich crimson-lake colour, and splendid flavour ; foliage shinipg and dark. 2. Pine Apple Short-Top.— This is a dwarf, compact growing variety, haying leaves 6 to 7 in. high, dark purple, the stalks tinged with dull orange ; roots 6 to 9 in. in circumference ; flesh, deep crimson ; when cooked is everything that could be desired. 3. Covent Garden Red. — Roots of good average size, being solid and deep-coloured throughout ; when cooked, tender, sweet, and well flavoured. 4. Pragnell's ExMbition is a remarkably handsome variety. The roots are smooth and of medium size, the flesh being of a rich crimson colour and of good quality. Other good varieties of beet are Excelsior, Blood Bed, and Crimson Perfection. Sou. and Situation, — Beet will do well in any light, deep, and moderately rich soil ; but the latter should not contain traces of any recent or strong manure, inasmuch as a rank soil, or one which has been dressed with animal manure shortly before sowing the seed, will yield ugly, coarse roots* Therefore the seed should be sown in an open plot of ground which had been well manured the previous year. The best re- sults will be secured from seed sown in a light, loamy soil away from the shade of trees. It requires an open situation. Preparing the Soil. — The ground should be deeply dug some time before sowing the seed, by which time it should be nice and mellow by reason of its exposure to the weather. If the soil is of a heavy nature, it should have some chalk or leaf-mould added to it as soon in autumn as the space is cleared of the summer crops, and ridged up for the winter. Advantage should be taken of dry weather to level down the ridges, and dig the whole Fig. 5. PERFECTION BEET. 18 MY GARDENER: regularly over just before sowing, treacling the soil down as soon as it has been dug, raking it over, and making it level preparatory to sowing the seed. Seed and Sowing. —A small sowing may be made in warm districts the third week in March, with a view to securing roots for use between those of the previous year and those from the main sowing of the current year. This sowing, however, will run the risk of being destroyed by late spring frosts ; therefore the sowing should be but a small one, as already stated. The seed should be sown in drills from 1 to 2 in. deep and from 12 to 15 in. apart. The seed may be sown about 2 in. asunder in the row ; the soil should then be closed in with the feet, trodden, and raked over. If the soil is heavy rather than light, 1 in. will be deep enough for the drills, and if light, 2 in. will be none too deep. The main sowing may be made the third week in April in warm districts, and a week or ten days later in less favoured parts. After Treatment. — When the young plants are large enough to handle they should be thinned out at from 6 to 9 in. in the row ; and if it is necessary to extend the crop, the thinnings may be transplanted in ground prepared as recommended for the reception of the seed, and at the distances indicated, doing the work in showery weather, and taking care that the roots of the individual plants are not bent in transplanting. The plants should be kept free from weeds. The Dutch hoe should be run between the rows occasionally during the summer months, both for the purpose of destroying seedling weeds and stimulating growth. Two ounces of seed will sow a row 50 ft. long. Taking up and Storing tlie Roots. — Towards the end of October the roots should be stored, selecting a tine day for the work when the ground and plants are dry. In order to preserve their freshness the roots should be packed in damp material, which will not tend to absorb the moisture from them, and for this process the following is the most simple and effectual method : the roots should be taken up before they are injured by frost, and with care, avoiding breaking or wounding them in any way, as that would cause them to bleed and, consequently, to lose their colour. They should be tak6n to a dry situation, such, for instance, as a border under a south or west wall or wooden fence. Earth should be taken out at the end of the border so as to form a trench 12 or 15 in. deep and about the same width, and the digging of the ground be proceeded with. When the trench is filled and the ground has been levelled in the ordinary way, the soil should be cut straight down the whole width of the border, and two or three rows of beet-root be placed perpendicularly in the opening thus formed, and digging be again proceeded with until the roots are all covered, burying the crowns THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 19 about 1 in. under the surface of the soil. The operation is thus continued Somewhat after the mode of transplanting young forest trees from the seed beds in nurseries, until the work is completed. The leaves, which should not be removed from the crown of the root, wiU afford sufficient protection for the roots from several degrees of frost, but, in the event of its. being severe, a protection of dry litter or fern (the com'mon bracken, which, being very plentiful in some districts, is used as a substitute for straw) will be necessary. This should, however, be removed on every favourable opportunity and returned in frosty weather. In the spring, before the roots show signs of growth, they should be taken up, the leaves (with the exception of those roots intended for seed), with a portion of the crown, cut clean away, and the roots laid in again as before. The roots will thus keep fresh and of good colour. Saving Seed. — About the third week in April the necessary number of roots of any variety of which it is intended to save seed should be planted, at from 12 to 15 in. asunder, at the foot of a southern wall, to which the flower-spikes should be secured in due time with a length of string, or thin flower-sticks tacked to the wall or fence with a few nails and shreds, so as to expose the flowers well to the sun, as well as to prevent the plants from being broken by the wind. The roots should be watered as soon as they are planted to settle the soil about them. Some time between the middle and end of October, according to the season, the flower-spikes should be cut, tied together in small bundles, and hung up in a dry, airy shed, and be rubbed out and cleaned a month or two later and put away for future use. Insect Attacks. — The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by the grubs of the Dart Moths (Agrotis segetum, A. exclamationis). This maybe prevented by hand-picking, and by strewing sufficient fresh soot over the ground to cover it before drawing the drills for the seed. BORECOLE, or KALE. {Brassica oleracea acephala.) This is one of the hardiest divisions of the Brassica family, and on this account it is mainly depended upon in northern counties to produce a supply of winter greens. It is pretty generally grown in most European countries ; therefore many of the varieties have gained a multiplicity of names. The following are the hardiest as well as the raost useful and generally grown varieties now enumerated in trade- lists : — B 2 20 3/r GARDENER . Fig. 6. EXTEA CUELED SCOTCH KALE. 1. Extra Curled. Scotch. — The plants are dwarf in habit, and the leaves beauti- fully curled ; it is the har- g diest of all borecoles. 2. Welsh Kale. — The leaves of this novelty are beautifully fringed and curled, rich glaucous-green colour, and fine flavour. 3. Cottagers' Kale.— The stem of this well-known hardy variety usually attains to a' height of 2 ft. Some of the leaves are plain, others curled, some green, others purplish-green. The plants throw out an abundance of shoots in spring, and furnish a good supply of tender greens. Other good varieties are Moss Curled., New Perpetual, Dwarf Green Curled, Asparagus Kale, Prolific, Dwarf Late Curled, Hardy Winter Greens, and Variegated Kale. Only a small quantity of the latter should be grown, for garnishing purposes. It is very ornamental, as almost every plant will show two or more distinct colours. Soil. — Borecole will succeed in any ordinary garden soil which has been enriched with manure, and in an open situation, the most satis- factory results being, as is the case with all the Brassica tribe, secured from plants growing in a rich loamy soil. Preparing the Ground for and Sowing the Seed. — The ground, -having been previously dug, should be trodden over when the soil is dry enough not to adhere to the feet, raked over, and marked off into beds 4 ft. wide, with an alley 1 ft. wide between each bed. A space a yard long of such bed, divided into four pieces by the impression of the marking-rod, will be amply sufficient space in which to raise the necessary quantity of plants of a like number of varieties for the ' stocking of any cottage garden ; we say beds, because a pinch of seed of lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, savoys, leek, and Brussels sprouts will require sowing at the same time as the borecoles. A small sowing of dwarf curled Scotch Borecole should be made at the end of February, the main sowing a month later, making a small sowing the end of April or early in May, for supplying plants for yielding pickings late in spring. The seed should be sown thinly, and be covered with soil TBE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 21 taken from the alleys, to the depth of ^ in. This should be broken fine before distributing it over the seed, and then be raked over, beaten down with the back of the spade, to compress the soil and seed, and the alleys be neatly cut ofi" at the width indicated. This done, a piece of garden netting, supported by a few forked sticks, should be put over the beds to save the seed from the ravages of birds, the most destructive of which are the chaffinches. Pricking out the Seedling Plants. — As soon as the plants are large enough, and before they become crowded in the seed beds, they should be pricked out in beds or rows 6 in. apart, and at the same distance in the rows, letting the plants down to the bottom leaves in the ground, and making the soil firm about the roots with the setting-stick, and then water to settle the soil about the roots. Plants of all the Brassica family, lettuce, &c., are too frequently allowed to remain, too long in the seed beds, with the result of the plants becoming " drawn," long- legged, &c. Plants from which the best possible results in the way of a crop are expected should, as in the case of animals, be treated properly from the beginning. If a little shading can be afforded to the young plants from sunshine for a few days after they are pricked out, it will greatly facilitate root action. An old mat put over a few bean-sticks, supported by forked sticks or a few spruce boughs or laurel branches stuck into the ground at the sunny side of the plants, will have the effect of establishing the plants as quickly as possible. Transplanting. — The plants should be finally transplanted before they get crowded in the nursery beds. They should be planted in drills 3 in. deep, 2 ft. apart, and at the same distance from plant to plant in the rows, letting the plants down to the bottom leaves in holes made with the setting-stick. Cottagers' Kale should be given from 6 to 9 in. more room every way, as it is a tall, strong- growing variety. Before planting kales, broccolis, cauliflowers, and cabbages, the roots of the plants should be dipped in a " puddle " made of clay, sufficiently thick to adhere to the roots, and into which a double handful of fresh soot has been stirred. This will save the roots from the attacks of grubs, which are sometimes very destructive to the plants. After Treatment. — This consists in drawing a little soil up to the plants in due time (when they are about 6 in. high), and in keeping them free from weeds. Saving Seed,-^It is not advisable to save seed if any other variety of the same species has been in flower in the immediate neighbourhood at the same time, as such plants will invariably be crossed by bees, or even by flies. If there is no fear of crossing from these causes, select a dozen or two plants of the best types, and plant them in a row in a sunny situation towards the end of March or early in April. They 22 MY GARDENER: should have water at the roots when transplanted, and the stems should be supported to prevent them being broken by the wind. When the seed pods are formed a piece of garden netting should be placed over the plants to save them from the birds. When the seeds are ripe they should be rubbed out, cleaned and dried, and placed in paper or canvas bags and put away in a dry situation. Seed thus saved will retain vitality for at least four or five years ; so that a little seed of any desired variety can be in turn annually saved. BROCCOLI. {Brassica oleracea hotrytis asparagordes?) This well-known and highly-esteemed vegetable is a hardy biennial, but not so hardy as many others of the cabbage family. It is a native of Italy and other places on the shores of the Mediterranean. Within the last dozen years many excellent varieties have been in- troduced into commerce by our great seedsmen, with the result that it requires a very good judge indeed to distinguish between some of the new broccolis and cauliflowers. They may now be had nearly all the year round in the south of England by growing the following varieties, aud giving the plants good treatment. Fig. 7. MICHAELMAS WHITE BROCCOLI. THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 23 First Earlies, fob Cutting in September, October, xovembeb, and december. 1. Michaelmas White. — The heads of this excellent autumn variety are of great size, pearly white, and turn in quickly towards the end of September. 2. Self-Protectillg.— This very valuable broccoli for autumn and early winter use is of robust growth. The heads are beautifully white, firm, and compact, and are well protected by the leaves from the eflPects of ear^frosts. Fig. 8. SELF-PBOTECTIN& BROCCOLI. 3. Grange's Autumn Cape.— A compact growing variety, producing medium-sized white, close heads during the autumn months. Improved Purple Cape, New Autumn White, and Early White Cape are also good autumn varieties. Second Earlies, for Cutting in January, February, and March. 4. Winter Mammoth. — A large broccoli, coming into use in the middle of winter. The plants are strong-growing ; the leaves, lapping well over the white heads, protect them from frost. 24 MY GARDENER: 5. Norfolk Giant. — This is a very good early wiuter broccoli, producing large, firm, close heads. 6. Winter White is a fine hardy dwarf winter variety ; the heads being of medium size, close, and of good quality. 7. Snow's Winter White. —This is a spring broccoli, the heads are of medium size and well protected by the foliage. Other good varieties are Brimstone, Progmore Protecting, and White Sprouting Broccoli. Third Eaelies fob Cutting in March, April, and May. 8. Perfection. — This excellent variety produces, under ordinary treatment, handsome heads of snowy whiteness, immense in size and first-rate in flavour. It is of compact and robust habit and very hardy, being well protected with leaves. 9. Champion is another fine dwarf late variety, producing large white heads. ' 10. Eclipse, — Very hardy and late. Heads large and of good quality. 11. Early Spring. — -A robust growing variety, with medium-sized handsome white heads, close and well protected. Matchless and Wilcove White are also good and well-tested hardy varieties. Fourth Earlies for use in May and June. 12. Mammoth Spring White.— This is a very large late broccoli, producing immense white heads well protected by the leaves. 13. Late Queen. — This is dwarf and compact in growth. It is rarely afFected by frost, and produces large white heads in May and June. 14. Model is another most desirable broccoli for late use. The heads are beautifully white, medium size ; very compact broccoli, conical in shape. 15. Richmond Late White is a good all-round late broccoli, being a good grower with heads of excellent quality. SoiL^The broccoli delights in a good loamy soil, resting upon a gravelly substratum, and inclining to be heavy rather than light. And for the growth of plants " heading " in September, October, and November, the best possible results will be secured by deeply digging and liberally manuring the grouod prior to settling the plants. But for plants which have to remain in the ground and to withstand the effects of severe weather throughout the winter and early . spring months, the case is quite different, because in that case the plants would make a too luxuriant and sappy growth, and succumb to severe THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 25 frost. On this account, all mid-winter and late broccoli plants should be planted in hard ground which has not recently been manured, such, for instance, as that from which the pea crop or old strawberry plants had been taken ; the plants being let well down to the bottom leaves in holes made with the crowbar, and a little of the soil worked into each hole with the setting-stick in planting, afterwards giving a littJe water to settle it about the roots of the plants. Plants thus set, always assuming that they had been pricked out and subsequently transplanted before they became crowded in the seed and nursery beds, will make a sturdy, consolidated growth, which will stand severe frosts with impunity, there being no bare, sappy stems (the result of the plants having been crowded in the seed beds, &c.) exposed to the weather. The higher and more exposed be the situation in which broccoli plants are growing, the less liable will they be to suslain injury from frost. Seed and Sowing. — It wiU be advisable to make two small sowings of the several varieties grown by each cultivator, one the middle of April and the other three weeks later. The method of sowing, subsequent treatment of the seedlings,- final transplanting, and puddling of the roots of the plants before planting being the same as recom- mended for borecoles, they need not be again detailed here. The ■^broccolis described as " dwarf " should be given a distance of 2 ft. between the rows, and the same distance betweeij the plants in the rows, giving 6 in. more room every way to those varieties which are described as "strong" or "vigorous." If the weather should be dry at planting time, with no immediate prospect of rain, the plants should be well watered at the roots an hour or two before removing them. And in order to take them up with a little soil attached to the roots, the ground shbuld first be loosened about them with a five-tined fork. If the plants are set out in their final positions in showery weather they will experience very little check in the process of transplantation, but in the event of the work having to be done during a spell of dry, warm weather, the plants should be watered at the roots when planted, and afterwards every second pr third day until they have re-established themselves ; after which, if the soil should be of a stiff and consequently retentive nature, they will not require any further supplies of water. After Treatment. — When the plants have started well into growth, they should have a little soil drawn up to them on either side and be kept , free from weeds. As soon as the broccoli begin to " tiirn in," in late autumn, winter, and early spring, they should be looked over, and any of the heads that are not fit to cut, and which are not protected by their own foliage, should have the leaves bent over them. This, as a rul^, will save the heads from being injured by frost. 26 MY GARDENER: Insects. — The broccoli and all the cabbage family are subject to the attacks of the insects mentioned in connection with cabbages, and the remedies are the same as there specified. One ounce of seed will sow four square yards. Seed should be saved in the same way as recommended in the case of borecole. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. (Brassica oleracea bullata gemmifera.) This is a very old inhabitant of the kitchen garden, as shown by a reference made to it in the year 1213 in connection with our " Market Regulations " under the name spruyten (sprouts), which it bears to the present day. This vegetable has long been extensively cultivated near Brussels, whence it derives its name. When well grown, the amount of eatable pro- duce is more than equal to that of the kale. Hence the wonder is that it is not met with more frequently in cot- tage gardens ; its culture, too, being as easy as that of borecole. 1 . Varieties. — Exhibition Sprout is one of the finest all-round Brussels sprout in cultiviition. The leaves are small, crumpled, and of a pale- green colour, standing well out from the stem. The buttons are large, solid, of good flavour, and are fit for use before any other variety sown at the same time and transplanted in the same piece of ground. Aigburth, Scrymger's Giant, Extra Pine Selected, Victoria, Colossal and im- ported are also very good Fiij. 9. EXHIBITION SPROUT. varieties of Brussels sprouts to grow in the poor man's and rich man's gardens alike. TSE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 27 Soil. — Brussels sprouts v:\\\ succeed m any ord,inary garden or culti- vated field. Deeply-trenched and liberally-manured soil is not in this case necessary for the production of the most satisfactory results ; quite the/ reverse, inasmuch as it promotes a too luxuriant growth, and so tends to the production of large, loose sprouts, instead of medium- sized, close, firm ones, as result from plants growing in soil of average fertility, and from 9 to 15 in. deep. Seed and Sowing. — It will be advisable to make three small sowings ; the first early in March, the second the first week in April, and the third a month later. Plants resulting from these sowings will yield a good succession of produce. For details respecting seed sowing and subsequent treatment of the plants, see remarks on borecole. Distauces between the Plants. — Where the ground is deep and rich, and plenty of it, 3 ft. will be none too much between the rows, and 2 ft. from plant to plant in the row, as the plants will grow taU in it ; but in the case of soil of average depth and fertility, the plants may be set in rows 2 ft. apart and at 18 in. in the row. The usual waterings must be given to the plants after they are planted and until they have re-established themselves — that is, in the event of the weather being dry at the time. They should have a little soil drawn up to them wben about 8 in. high, and be kept free from weeds. At the base of every leaf on the stems of the plants buds are formed, and as these enlarge, the said leaves, having performed their proper function, drop off. A couple of weeks before beginning to pick the sprouts — that is, before the latter are fully grown — the heads may be cut off the plants and be used as greens. This will direct the energies of tlie plant to the more speedy development of the sprouts. One ounce of seed will sow four square yards. CABBAGE. (JBrassica oleracea capitata.) This is a hardy biennial, derived from Brassica oleracea, which is found wild in Cornwall, Wales, Yorkshire, and near Dover, in Kent. It is also found wild on the coasts of France and of many other European countries. It was known to the ancient Gauls by the name of Chon Capa. Of the cabbage, like many other garden vegetables nowailays, there are too many varieties enumerated in trade-lists. They want weeding out considerably, as it is rather bewildering to those not practically acquainted with the leading sorts and varieties of vegetables to make a good selection from a trade-list. The wisest plan in this case would be to leave the selection to the seedsmen. 28 MY GARDENER ; EARLY Fig. 10. HEAETWELL CABBAGE. However, following the plan which we adopted when beginning this work, we shall make the matter of selection easy for those who consult these pages. Therefore, out of the hundred or more varieties of the cabbage which are to be found in catalogues, we shall only mention a few of the very best, which will serve the purpose of any cultivator- as well, and, indeed, better, than if he grew all the varieties named in the catalogues. They are : — 1. Early Heartwell Marrow.— This very excellent early cabbage is suitable for all kinds and sizes of gardens. The heads are very firm, averaging 5 lbs., with scarcely any outside or loose leaves, tender, and good flavour. 2. All Heart is of moderate size, having a fine heart, somewhat pointed, delicate flavour, and it is very early and quick in growth. It is a fine marked cabbage. 3. Matchless is an excellent small, early variety of dwarf, com- pact habit, turns in quickly and hearts well, mild flavour, and is a very profitable variety to grow, as it can be planted about 15 in. apart in the rows and the same distance between the rows. 4. Imperial is a good cabbage for general crop, the heads are large, firm, tender, and very good in flavour. Enfield Market, Nonpareil, Defiance (a very large cabbage). Red Dutcll (for pickling), and Rosette Colewort (for sowing in June for early winter use). Soil. — -A deep soil, enriched with farmyard manure, is essential to the prodnction of good succulent cabbage. Preparing the Ground. — The ground io which it is intended to plant cabbages should be trenched at least two spades deep. This will allow of the bottom spit being turned up to the action of the weather, thereby subjecting substances in the soil, previously inert, to a fresh decomposing action, and rendering them available for the food of the plants. With the top-soil being placed in the bottom of each succeeding trench are destroyed the eggs and larvte of insects detri- mental to the well-being of the plants. In the process of treuching the manure should be well mixed with the soil, and should not be nearer to the surface than 9 in. Cabbages will grow in soil that is too stiff for turnip, beet, or carrots, but manure applied to soil of this description should be of a light and opening nature, such, for instance. THE CTJLTUBM OF VEGETABLES. 29 as decayed vegetable matter. They will also grow fairly well in light, peaty soil, but they will do much better in it after it has been dressed with roadside parings, lime, wood-ashes, old plaster, or clay. When and How to Sow the Seed. — A pinch of All Heart and Matchless should be sown towards the end of Febl-uary or early in March. Plants resulting from this sowing will be fit for cutting in July and August. Another sowing should be made a month later. This should consist of Imperial, Enfield Market, or any other popular and well-tested valriety. The plants from this sowing will come in for use from August to November. A third sowing may be made in May for yielding young-hearted cabbage about Christmas, and if inclement weather should prevent their hearting, they can be used as greens or " coleworts," as they are technically termed. The autumn sowing is the most important, as it yields plants for furnishing the spring and early summer cabbages ; but the time for making it varies according as the district is early or late. From the middle to the third week in July will not be too soon for making this sowing in the north, and two weeks later will be time enough to sow in the south. Eosette Cole- wort should be sown the middle or third week of June for cutting from in winter. Eed Dutch, should be sown either early in March or the end of July. The finest specimens are secured from the seed sown at the latter date, the plants being planted out early in September, when plants of the ordinary cabbage, resulting from seed sown the same time, are being transplanted. The seed should be sown broadcast, and somewhat thinly, in a light and fairly rich soil in a warm situation. The ground, having been previously dug, should be trodden when the soil is moderately dry, raked smoothly over, and then divided into the necessary number of small beds. The latter should be 4 ft. wide, with an alley 1 ft. wide between each bed, and they may be divided and subdivided into the needful number of pieces, according to the extent of the sowing of various kinds and varieties of seeds. A slight covering of pulverised soil from the alleys should be scattered over the seed, the beds should then be raked, patted down with the back of the spade to press the seed and soil together, and the alleys should be neatly cut off by pressing the back of the spade with a " downward and inward" inclination against the lines indicating the 1-ft. space between the beds. The beds should then be watered, if the soil is dry, and covered with a piece of small-meshed garden netting, supported by short forked sticks, as a protection from the birds. Pricking and Transplanting the Plants.— As soon as the seedlings are large enough, they should be pricked out 6 in. apart in rows in a piece of ground prepared as recommended for the reception of the seed, setting the plants down to their lower leaves, and rendering the soil moderately firm about their roots, giving sufficient water through a 30 MY GARDENER : rosed watering-pot to settle the soil. The plants should be finally transplanted into drills 3 in. deep, 2 ft. apart, and at the same distance from plant to plant in the row, giving 9 in. less every way to dwarf, Gorapact-growing varieties like Matchless. Coleworts should be only allowed 1 ft. between the rows and the same distance in the row, setting the plants in each succeeding row opposite the centre of the intervals between those in the preceding row. In planting cabbages, like everything else, advantage should be taken, if possible, of dull, moist weather, but in the event of dry weather setting in, the plants in the nursery bed may get so large as to render their transplantation necessary at all risks. The roots of the plants should be dipped in a clay " puddle," into which a couple of handf uls of fresh soot has been stirred, before being planted. This puddle, being made thick enough to stick to the roots, will render them distasteful to the attacks of the grub. In the absence of rain the plants should be watered every second or third day at the roots, until the latter have pushed well into the soil. This refers especially to plantations made during the summer months, as once or twice will be enough to water plants put out in spring and autumn. In poor soils the plants do not, as a matter of course, require plantiug so far apart as in rich soil ; 18 or 20 in. will be ample space for varieties which should be given 2 ft. every way in rich grouad. In the absence of rain at the time of pricking out and transplanting the plants, the seed and nursery beds should be well watered an hour or two before removing the plants, which, in the case of being finally transplanted, should be taken up carefully with the assistance of four-tined forks. In this way the roots will sustain very little injury in the process of transplantation. The only after treat- ment which the plants will require consists in frequently, hoeing. This, in addition to killing the weeds, will stimulate growth in the plants. Cabbages are best cut before they split or crack. After the first heads are cut, the plants will produce several small heads each during the summer and autuma months, and afterwards yield a plentiful supply of greens until the following March, when the ground will be required for other crops, say, potatoes. To Save Seed. — The largest and best-shaped heads only should be selected by putting a stick in the ground alongside each specimen. The number of plants which are to be allowed to run to seed should be determined by the quantity which it is desired to save. As a rule, half-a-dozen healthy plants will yield seed enough to stock an ordinary-sized garden for three or four years. Only one variety should be saved at a time in the same garden. The plants should be taken up early in March and planted together in a row, burying the stems to the first leaves, treading the soil, and afterwards giving watfer to settle THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 31 it about the roots of the plants. A stick should then be put to each plant for support, and they should be protected from the birds by a piece of garden netting when the seed is ripening. The plants should be cut down before the seed begins to drop from the pods, and be spread out on a piece of canvas and put out in the sun for a few days until the seed can be easily rubbed out, when it should be cleaned, put into canvas or stout paper bags, labelled, and stored away for future use. One ounce of seed will sow eight square yards. Insect Attacks. ^The cabbage, like the cauliflower, broccoli, and savoys, is attacked by various insect enemies.^ The caterpillars of the White Cabbage, Turnip, and Rape-seed Butterflies {Pontia brassiccB, P. napi, and P. rapes) work havoc among the leaves. The caterpillars of the Cabbage Moth {Mamestra brassicoB) also do great mischief by eating the hearts of the plants, rendering them quite unfit for use. Hand-picking and dusting the plants with freshly-slacked lime while damp are the only safe and effectual ways of ridding the plants of these destructive and very troublesome insects. The roots of the plants, too, are frequently attacked by various kinds of grubs. These include the caterpillars of Heart-and-dart Moth (Agrotis exclamationis), of the Common Dart Moth (^A. segetum), and the Great Yellow Underwing Moth ( Triphana prunuha), as well as the larvae of the Crane Fly ( Tipula oleracea). These eat through the tap-roots a little below the surface. The dipping of the roots of the plants in a " puddle" made of clay and a couple of handfuls of fresh soot before planting is a good remedy against the depredations of all kinds of grubs and insects, few of which will be found in soils which are annually dressed with fresh soot, or in which artificials instead of animal manures are used. Clubbing is as- cribed to the work of maggots, they being generally found inside the protuberances on the roots. But this disease is seldom, if ever, heard of in connection with cabbage plants growing in soils which have been dressed as above ; whereas, in soils which have been annually and liberally dressed with rich farmyard manure, I have known clubbing to be very bad indeed. In transplanting, all plants aff"ected with this disease should be discarded ; or, if plants are very scarce, the tubercles should be cut clean away with a sharp knife, and the remaining roots " puddled," as recommended, before being planted. CARDOON. (^Cunara cardunculus.) This perennial is a native of Candia and Barbary. It is a vegetable much esteemed on the Continent, but rarely met with in English gardens. The ribs of the leaves are blanched and are very tender 32 MY GARDENER : when properly cooked. The Spanish cardoon is the best to grow ; it has spineless leaves with large, nearly solid ribs. SoiL— The cardoon delights in a light, warm, and fairly rich soil. Preparing the G-rotind and Sowing. — If more than one row of this vegetable is desired, open trenches 18 in. wide, 12 in. deep, and 4 ft. from centre to centre, and in the bottom of these place 6 in. thick of well-rotted manure and dig it in, breaking the soil fine, in the process of digging. In the middle of April in the north, and the end of the month in the south, sow the seed in patches of three in the centre of the trench at from 1.5 to 18 in. from patch to patch, covering the seed with soil to the thickness of 1 in. When about 3 in. high the seedlings should be thinned out, leaving only the strongest plant in each patch. After Treatment. — The only after treatment which the plants require is to keep them free from weeds and supplied with water in the a,bsence of rain during the summer. Towards the end of September the plants will have become fully grown. The necessary number of twisted hay- bands should then be wrapped round them. This should be done on a fine day when the leaves are dry. Carefully bring all the leaves into an upright position, in which they should be held by one pair of hands, while a second pair should fasten the hay-band round the bottom of the plant and wind away until the whole of the stalk is bound round and the end of the rope is fastened. The leaves should be brought closely together, but not too much compressed. When all the plants have been thus bound, earth them up till the bands are Covered with the soil, which should be pressed firmly round the plant at the top to exclude air and moisture as much as possible. Of course the top of each plant should be left exposed to light and air. The plants will be fit for use in a month from the time of tying up. On the approach of severe weather they should be protected with fern or litter. CARROT. {Daucus carota.) The carrot is a hardy biennial, and is a native of Britain, where it is found wild by roadsides and on dry soils. The roots of the wild carrot are small and much forked, but that it is the parent of the numerous excellent varieties now in cultivation there can be no room for doubt. Varieties.— 1. Early Nantes Horn.— An excellent early variety of fine quality, with very small core. The roots are of small medium size and somewhat stump-rooted. 2. Intermediate Scarlet does well in shallow soils. The roots are of medium size, handsome shape, and keep well. THE CULTUllE OF VEOETAIILEK 33 -This is a long, handsome, fine- /t^lfe. «< I /- '^, 3. Matchless is a fine strain of the Intermediate type, but heavier cropping, earlier, and far superior in quality, shape, appearance, and size to the old variety. 4. Selected Long Red Stirrey.- quality carrot for main crop. 5. Scarlet Perfection is a handsome variety ; the roots attain a length of from 10 to 12 in., being straight, clean, and bright-red in colour. Other good varieties are Selected Altrincham and Long Orange, SoiL — Carrots will do well in any kind of deep, light, and moderately rich soil, but a deep, sandy loam is most suitable. It is essential to the production of clean, shapely roots that the soil should be of an open nature and free from wireworms. Preparation of the SoiL — Dung should be trenched or deeply dug into the ground after the removal of the previous crop. This allows time for the decomposition If the manure and the absorption of the gas- eous matter arising therefrom by the soil. But if farmyard manure has been given to the ground only a short time before sowmg the seed, a large percentage of the ^Bs resulting therefrom will be forked and coarse in appearance. Lime, potash, soda, chloride of sodium, or common salt, and a surface-dressing of soot may one and all __ be applied with advantage to the ground /^"^ {[ before sowing the crop. If the soil is flf /,',,y u a stiif, cold nature, it should be ridged up eakly xaxtes hoex during the autumn, so as to expose it to the caeeot. weather until the middle of the following March, when advantage should be taken of fine, dry weather to level the ridges, adding thereto any light materials that may be at command, such as leaf-mould, wood-iishes, coal-ashes, burnt-earth, or sand. The ground having been levelled, trodden over, and raked with a coarse iron rake, enough of fresh soot may be strewn over the ground to discolour it before drawing the drills. These should be from 1 to 2 in. deep, 12 iu. apart for the Nantes Horn, giving 3 in. and 6 in. more, respec- tively, between the rows for James' Intermediate and Long Red Surrey, and allied varieties requiring more space. Seed and Sowing. — As early in February as the soil will work, or may be trodden on without its sticking to one's boots, a sowing of Nantes c 31 MY GARDENER : Horn, or other approved early variety, should be made in a warm and dry rather than damp situation, making another of the same variety a month later ; and a third sowing in the middle or the end of June, according as the district is late ov early, should be made for drawing young diiring the autumn and early winter months. About the middle of March the main sowing, consisting of long Red Surrey and Match- less, should be made. Before sowing mix the seed with dry sand, Sow thinly in the drills ; then close the soil in with the feet, tread, and rake level with a fine rake. Thinning the Plants.^As soon as a couple of inches high, thin the Nantes Horn out to 2 in. from plant to plant in the row, every alternate plant being afterwards drawn as soon as fit for use, giving 6 in. and 9 in. between the plants respec- tively to such varieties as Intermediate and Long Eed Surrey. Advantage should be taken of showery weather to do this work. The weeds, which are sure to como np with the carrots, should be pulled up at the same time. After Treatment. — This, in addition to keepiug down weeds, will consist in making a free use of the Dutch hoe between the rows during the summer, stirring the soil to the depth of between 1 and 2 in. each time the Dutch hoe is used. Taking up and Storing the Crop. — Towards the end of October or eai-ly iu November, according to season and district, the crop should be taken up with the assistance of a four or five-tined fork, so as to lift the roots entire ; the tops should then be cut oif close to the crown, and the roots be stored away in the manner recommended for beet-root ; and if wintered in this way there need be no fear of fermentation, as is so frequently the case where a large bulk of them has been put together, some- times to the entire loss of the crop. Two ounces of seed will sow a drill 120 ft. long. Saving the Seed. — In taking up the crop, select the necessary number of the finest specimens and lay :]iem in the soil by themselves, cutting oiFthe tops at a few inches from the crown. Towards the end of February or cnrly in March plant these roots in a row IS in. apart in a warm situation, jjlacing them in good, rich soil. As the umbels or clusters iOT. of flowers successively ripen their seeds, thev Firj. 12. .JIA'l'CULESS C \ " THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 35 should be cut oif and laid in a cloth in the sun to get properly dry for rubbing out. The seed should then be cleaned, put into a bag, labelled, iind put away for use the following spring. Only one variety should . be saved annually in any one garden, that is, if the object is to keep it true to name. Insect Attacks. — The cairot is subject to the attacks of several iiis(3cts in soils which are annually dressed with rich farmyard manure, and which have not had a surface-dressing of fresh soot given imme- diately before drawing the drills for the reception of the seed. Fresh soot is not only a sure antidote for the attacks of all insects making inroads on the roots of plants, but it is also a powerful fertiliser and pm'ifier of the soil when judiciously applied. The young plants are' frequently attacked by the Carrot Plant Louse {Aphis dauci) as soon as they appear. This takes up its abode in the crown, and destroys the plants. Dusting in the early morning, when the plants are damp, with a mixture of freshly-slaked lime and fresh soot will remove it. The maggots of the Crane Fly {Tipula oleracea) also occasionally work havoc among the roots. The caterpillars of the common carrot blossom and carrot seed flat-body Moths (Depressaria applana, D. daucella, and D. depressella) do much injury to the seed crop by devouring the seeds and seed vessels. They are, however, easily shaken off, and may thus be collected and destroyed. CAULIFLOWER. {Brassica oleracea Botrytis cauliflora.) The cauliflower, as also the broccoli, are said to have been introduced into England and the Continent of Europe from Cyprus, where it has been cultivated for centuries, and also from the coasts of the Medi- terranean. Unprotected, the cauliflower woxald rarely withstand the severity of our winters, except, perhaps, in the favoured climates of Cornwall and South Devon. Like all the Brassica family, there have been many excellent varieties of the cauliflower introduced into commerce in recent years by the great seedsmen of this country, France, and Germany. Those finding most favour in this country are the following : — 1. First Crop. — This is a very dwarf and compact-growing variety, and for this reason the plants maybe set closer than any other variety in planting. It produces few leaves and snowy-white close heads. 2. Early London is a strong-growing variety, producing large, close, white heads. 3. Eclipse is a very popular and excellent variety, being of good size, close and white. c -^ 36 J/r GABDFjX'EI} : 4. New Kinver produces large solid heads of snowy whiteuess and fine quality. 5. Extra Early Auttmui Giant (new) is an addition to the select list of standard varieties already in cultivation. It comes in well hetween the preceding varieties and the old Autumn Giant, but both flower and leaf are less coarse than those of that variety. 6. Autumn Giant is the b^st, as well as the hardiest and latest, of all cauliflowers. Other well-known varieties are Walclieren and Late Asiatic. Soil. — A deep, sandy loam, enriched with well- decomposed stable manure, prepared in the same manner as recommended for cabbage, will be congenial to the requirements of the cauliflower, and tend to the production of the best possible results, under judicious treatment, and the influence of genial weather. Early and late plantings should be made in well-drained ground ; for the general planting it does not matter if it is but imperfectly drained, that is, not drained at all, as in that case the plants will stand a better chance of being uniformly damp at the roots during the summer and early autumn months, and, there- fore, less liable to have their growth checked, which would result in the production of precocious and imperfectly-formed heads. Sowing.-rSeed of First Crop should be sown in a gentle heat under glass, or at the foot of a south wall or fence, as early in January Fig. 13. ECLIPSE CAT:L1PL0WER. THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 37 or February as the coiiditiou of the "uil and weather will permit of its being doue. A pinch of seed of Early London, Walcheren, Eclipse, and Autumn Giant may be sown the same time, to yield a succession of cauliflower up to the autumn-raised plants the end of June, and throughout the months of July, August, and September, when the supply will be continued by plants of the last-named four varieties, raised from seed sown in a warm border, that is, a border in front of a south or west wall or fence, early in April. The last sowing will produce heads the following May and June, being made from the 20th to the 25th of August in the south and west of England and Ireland, and from ten to fifteen days earlier in the northern parts of Great Britain and Ireland. The seed beds should be prepared, the seed sown and covered the same way as recommended for cabbage ; and the subsequent treatment of the plants, from the seedling state to the cutting of the " flowers," being the same as that recommended for broccolis, it need not be again detailed. The only difference in the pricking out of the young plants resulting from the August or autumn sowing is, that they should be placed underneath hand-lights, or in cold pits or frames having a sunny aspect, instead of in the open. Autumn and Winter Treatment. — The plants in these positions should be protected from frost by lights and shutters, aod fern or litter in case of severe frost. They should, however, have abundance of air given them on every favourable opportunity, removing the lights and shutters in the morning, in the absence of frost or snow, und replacing them in the evening whenever frost is auticipated ; indeed, it will be safer to put them on every night after the middle of October. Other- wise, a large percentage of the plants will become button-hearted before spring, that is, they will j)roduee heads not much larger than large buttons. A dusting of soot and lime mixed should be occasionally made between the ends and sides of the frames and pits and the plants, with a view to preventing the inroads of slugs among, the plants during the winter and early spring months. The attacks of mice must also be guarded against, by setting traps for them as soon as evidence of their presence is visible. A little woOd-ashes and soot should be strewn over the soil before pricking out the young plants in it. This will save their roots from the attacks of insects. Transplanting the Plants in Spring. — As early in February as the weather will permit, lift the plants with a garden trowel, with little balls of earth attached to the roots, and transplant them carefully into drills 3 in. deep, 2 ft. apart, and at the same distance from plant to plant in the rows. This done, stick a spruce bough or laurel branch well in the ground at the north side of the individual plants for a few 38 ]UY 6/AMDEA'ER : weeks. These will save tliem from being injured by frosts and cutting winds until the roots of the plants have pushed into the fresh soil — until they have completely re-established themselves, when they should be removed. Another planting should be made early in March, treating the plants as indicated. Where branches and boughs of the description mentioned are not at command, it will be advisable to defer the first ])lautiug for a few weeks. In the north of England and Scotland it will not be safe to put the plants out before the second and third weeks in March. Taking and Retarding the Crop. —The heads of cauliflowers may be cut when they are about 3 to 4 in. in diameter, and from that till they attain their full size, but before they lose their compactness. The heads should never, except in special cases, be cut before they haA'c reached these dimensious. the " flower," as the part used is termed, should not be exposed to sunlight, as that would spoil its whiteness. When the heads or flowers are turning in too quickly, three or four of the leaves should be bent over them, as a means of keeping them back. Saving Seed, — Seed is best preserved from autumn-raised plants. The selection of short thick-stemmed plants, having firm, compact heads, should be made the following May, treating the plants as recommended for cabbage in the ■ same stage and for the same purpose. Insect Attacks. — The remedy for these is the same as those prescribed for cabbages and broccolis. One ounce of seed will sow four square yards. CELERY. (Apium graveolens.) This hardy biennial is a native of Britain, being found wild in marshy places and by ditches in meadow land. Well-groAvu specimens of the cultivated varieties arc much appreciated, not only in this countrv but also throughout Europe. It is undoubtedly a very wholesome vegetable, and though not agreeing with some constitutions, there are persons who attribute wonderfid virtues to its use — to wit, the curing 6f rheumatism. The following are the best varieties to grow : — 1. White Gem. — The sticks of this rightly-named variety arc verv close and firm, and ediMc almost to the leaf. Well-grown specimens are sweet, crisp, and possess a fine nutty flavour. 2. Solid White is of close habit, growing 2^- ft. high, thick, hearts firm and solid, and good flavour. Other good white varieties are Sandringham, Incomparahle White, aud Matchless. THi; CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 39 3. Standard-Bearer Eed. — This is a grand variet}-, sometimes attaiuing a length of 3 ft. and npwai-d«, and 1 ft. in circumference, ci-isp and solid. i- Major Clarke's Pine Solid Red is a good all round (jeleiy. Matchless Red and Sul- ham Prize Pink are also good varieties. Soil, — The soil which celery delights in is ligbl. rich, and moist, rather than dry. At the same time it must not remain excessivol}' damp during the winter, because such a soil would cause the celery to rot. A stilt' and adhesive soil is not suitable for the culture of this summer, moisture-loving plant, except in the case of plantings for autumn use. Seed and Sowing. — Where there is not the convenience of a hot-bed in which to raise young celery and other plants, open a pit about 2 ft. square, and the same depth, in a warm corner of the garden. Fill this with short stable dung to within 4 in. of the top, and fill up with light, rich, fine soil, made level and firm with the hand, and on this sow the seed thinly, about the middle of February, covering it lightly with some of the same kind of soil, and then water gently through a fine- Flfj. 22. WHITE UEJI CELEKY. sprayed watering pot. Place a hand-light or a square of glass over the seed bed, and cover with a mat or litter until the young plants appear, when they should be fully exposed to daylight ; tilting up the glass a little on fine days to prevent the plants making a weakly growth. 40 JIY GABDBXlin : Auotlier small sowing should be made in the middle of March, and a third on a warm border a month later, without protection. Pricking out the Seedling Plants. — As soon as the ^jlants have made two or three pioper leaves they should be pricked out about 4 in. apart ;^,j; „ ^ 2 or 3;in. thickness of sifted soil, placed on a like depth of short dung, resting on a hard bottom under a south or west wall or fence. They should be dropped into holes made with a small pointed stick, the soil being pressed about the roots, suffi- cient water being given to settle the soil. They should then be shaded from sun- shine until the roots have pushed into the soil. This may be easily done by placing a mat or cloth over a few bean-sticks supported by short forked sticks. The soil should always be kept moist about the roots of the plants. As the days lengthen, and the plants increase in growth, the application of water at the roots should l)ecome more frequent. Preparing the Trenches.— The best way to grow celery is in trenches running north and south. The width of these must be determined by the number of rows in- tended to be planted in each trench. The l)est sticks of celery are secured by planting only one row of plants in each trench. These single-row trenches should be 4 ft. apart from centre to centre, at least 12 in. deep and 16 in. wide ; the soil taken there- from being formed into a ridge between the trenches, on each side of which a cotiple of rows of lettuce may be grown during STAXUAKD-BEARER CELEKT. i1 ■ i if • ,1 j. i , ^ ' • the interval from opening the trenches to the general earthing-up of the plants. Into each of these trenches dig 6 in. deep of the best manure at command, breaking the soil fine as the work of digging is proceeded with. Transplanting. —The plants having been pricked out in soil prepared in the manner recommended above, will lift with nice balls of earth and short dung attached to the roots. These should be set 9 in. asunder along the centre of the trench, planting them therein with a garden trowel and making the soil firm about the roots with the hands, givino' water immediately afterwards to settle the soil round the roots. Fl/j. 23. THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 41 Advantage should be taken of shower}? weather to transplant these and all other plants, as they then experience little, if any, check. As soon as the plants, from any or all the sowings, have attained to a height of 3 or 4 in. they should be transplanted in the manner just described. Earthing up the Plants. — When the plants have made from 12 to 15 in. of growth they should be earthed up. This is how the operation is done. The soil is cut down a little from the ridge on either side the plants, the leaves are then drawn together, in an upright position at the top, and held with one hand while the loosened soil is drawn up and pressed round each plant with the other hand, up to within a couple of inches of the heart or top of central leaves ; taking particular care not to let any of the soil get into the heart of the plants in the process of landing them up, as this would spoil the heads or sticks of celery. By allowing the plants to reach the heights mentioned before earthing them up, labour is economised and the chance of the soil getting into the hearts is lessened, while the primary object of earthing up — blanching the head — is secured as completely as by carrying out the operation at shorter intervals. It is not only a waste of labour to earth the plants up when about 6 in. high, as is frequently done, but the risk of getting soil into the hearts is thereby increased. The last earthing up of the plants should be done before frost sets in. In the event of the weather being severe, the tops of the plants should be protected by a sprinkling of fern or straw. This should be removed in mild weather and returned when necessary. It is almost impossible to keep celery plants too moist during the summer and early autumn ; therefore copious supplies of water should be given at the roots during hot weather, or a large percentage of the plants will " bolt," i.e., run to seed. To Save Seed. — Whenever it is necessary to save seed it is advisable to plant a short row for this purpose of the variety selected. These plants need not be earthed up high, but should be protected in severe weather. About the middle of February transplant into a sunny situation, giving water at the roots, and supports to the flower-stems as required. The seeds ripen in autumn, when they should be rubbed out, cleaned and stored. The seed keeps good for three or four years, but new seed germinates best, and when the old and new are mixed, as is sometimes the case in the trade, they do not come up regularly. One ounce of seed will sow an area of four square yards. Insect A-ttaeks.— The Celery Fly (TepAriVisowojoorrfi/Hs) lays its eggs in or upon the leaves of the plants, and the larvae produced feed upon the soft green matter (jparenchi/ma) of the leaves, forming large blisters or hollow gatherings within the leaf. These maggots are found from June to November, and the only way of preventing their spreading is to pinch the blisters as soon as they appear, cutting off and burning all 42 J]jr GABBENER : the afFeoted leaves that, can be removed with safety to the plant. A mixture of fresh soot and lime dusted over the plants while damp is a good remedy for most insects which attack the leaves. Turnip-Rooted Celery. — This is much prized in France and Germany as a cooked table vegetiiblc. Unlike the common celery, the stem, instead of forming a mere extension of the leaves, develops into knobs, Aveighing from 1 to 5 lbs. each. This is sometimes sliced and used as an ingredient in salads. It is much more hardy than the ordinary celery, and its roots can be taken up and stored out of tlie reach of frost. The jjlants can be raised in the same way as the ordinary celery, and the young plants treated in the ^ame way as recommended above. At the beginning or middle of June the plants should be planted put in a piece of moderately rich and rather sandy soil, in rows 18 in. apart, and the plants set 1 ft. asunder in the row. Before planting, all the side shoots, and some of the outside lea,ves, and the side or branching fibres on the roots, should be removed. The plants should be set shallow, the roots being scarcely so deep-placed in the ground as they had previously been. During growth a little of the soil should be drawn from around the bulbs once or twice, and all lateral or side fibres removed. When nearly full-grown the bulbs should be covered with a little soil in order to bleach them. Taking the Crop. —The roots will be fit for use in Sejstember or October. Before severe frost sets in the crop may be taken up, divested of aU the foliage except the heart leaves, aad be laid in a dry border in front of a south wall or fence in the same manner as recommended for beet ; burying the bulbs about an inch underneath the soil, and protecting them with fern or litter when considered necessary. CHERVIL. {^Aiitliriscus ccrefolitun .) Tins annual i)lant is a native of the Continent, and is cultivated for the leaves, which, in a young state, a.ic used iu salads aud to flavour soups. The varieties grown are : — 1 . Common or Plain Leaved ; and the 2. Curled Chervi The latter variety, owing to its beautifully curled, pale-greon leaves, is also useful for garnishing purposes. Cheryil will flourish in any kind of light soil and warm situation. Seed and Sowing. —A pinch of seed should be sown either broadcast and lightly raked in, oi- iu drills about 1 in. deep and 8 or 9 in. asunder, THE (VLTUllE OF VEOETABLES. 43 closiug in the soil Avith the feet or rake afterwards. If a constant suc- (-•ossion of tender lea\ cs is required, siujcessional sowings should be made every three or four weeks from the beginning of Miirch to the end of September. The summer sowings should be made in ii somewhat shady situation, making the last couple of sowings in a position fully exposed to the south or west. Water should bo given at tlie roots in dry -weather. Bulbous -Booted. Chervil ( ChairophijUum bulbosum) is a hardy biennial, a native of the Continent and Europe. It produces fusiform or spindle- shaped roots, not unlike a small parsnip, and about the size of an Early Horn carrot, the flesh being of a yellowish white, farinaceous, or mealy, sweet, and characteristic flavour. It is said to be more farinaceous than the potato, and more like the sweet chestnut. As the seeds often perish in the soil in winter, if sown in August and September, the proper months for sowing, in the ordinary way, it is a good plan to stratify the seels soon after they are gathered in the autumn. This is done by putting a layer of sand in a good-sized flower- pot, the hole in the bottom being corked up, then a layer of seed, then one of sand, and so on, alternately, till the pot is tilled. It should then be plunged in any spare corner, out of the reach of frost, until the end of the following February, when the seed may be sown either broadcast or in shallow drills in any good garden soil, allowing from 9 to 12 in. between the drills, covering the seed lightly with fine soil. When the leaves become withered in July, the roots will be fit to take up. Like potatoes, they should be kept in the dark and dry. The produce from fairly good ground is about 70 lbs. per square pole or perch. CHICORY. \Cichorium Iiitt/bus,) Chicory is a native of Britain, where it occurs in a wild state by roadsides. When cut young the leaves make a somewhat bitter but wholesome small salad, and when blanched the leaves constitute an excellent winter salad, which is known to the French by the name of barbe de caputin. Near Paris the large, fleshy roots are grown exten- sively for mixture with coiFee. The roots are cut into tiny pieces, dried on a kiln, roasted, ground, and then mixed .with the cofiee. When the heads are stewed, and served with melted butter, they resemble seakale. It is important to grow carefully-selected seed if good roots and leaves are required for the winter and spj'ing months. The best varieties of chicory to grow are : — 1. Crimson-flaked. 2. Witloof Chicory, or White-leaved Chicory. 44 Mr GAUDENER: Soil. —A deep, light, and ordinary rich soil is suitable to the growth of chicory. The soil, having been previously dressed with well-decomposed manure deeply dug into it, should be firmly trod and raked level preparatory to drawing drills between 1 and 2 in. deep, and from 12 to 16 in. apart, running north and south. Sowing. — This operation may be perfornied any time between the middle of April and the end of May, weather permitting.. The seed should be sown thinly in drills, prepared as described ; the soil closed over it in the ordinary way, trodden, and raked. The roots will, if well cultivated, attain the size of moderately large parsnips. The plants should be thinned out to about 9 in. from plant to plant in the row. The only after treatment necessary between Sowing and thinning the crop and the taking of it up being rigorous weeding and stirring of the soil between the rows three or four times during the months of July, August, and September. Storing and Forcing. — When the large leaves of the plant have decayed, towards the end of October or eai-ly in November, according to the season and locality, the roots should be carefully taken up with a fork, being careful not to injure them. They should be laid in trenches the same depth in the soil as they were when growing, under a north wall or fence, to prevent further growth. Ten or fifteen days before blanched heads of chicory are required for use, the roots should be packed in an old or specially constructed box in light mould, watered, and then be placed in a perfectly dark place, such, for instance, as a mushroom-houie, cellar, or shed from which frost and daylight can be excluded. In planting, the crowns of the plants or roots should be \ in. above the surface. Successive batches of roots should be put into force, as indicated, every week or ten days, according to the demand. When the leaves have made a growth of from 9 to 10 in. they will be fit for use ; the same roots, if allowed to remain in the boxes after the. first crop is taken, will produce a second, though less abundant, crop of blanshed leaves. A simple, and at the same time effectual,, way for producing a supply of blanched chicory leaves during the winter and spring months is to secure a number of wooden troughs, about 12 in. deep and the same width, and to fill a few of these at intervals of ten or fifteen days, during the winter and spring months, with roots in the same manner as described above, allowing a space of about 3 in. between the crowns of the roots in the boxes, inverting boxes of similar dimensions over them. These, being placed in a sunny situation, should then be covered with clean and slightly fermenting leaves to the thickness of 24 in. Thus treated, good specimens of blanched chicory leaves m.xy be cut in a fortnight's time after the date of covering. If a supply of chicory is required as an ingredient for THE CULTURE OF VEGETAJILES. 45 small salad, it may be had all the year through by sowing, at intervals of three weeks, in open borders from April to the middle of October. The early and later sowings should be made in a warm situation ; the midsummer sowings in a rather cool and moist situation. The supply during the interval from October to May being obtained from blanched leaves, as above. When chicoiy is grown according to this system the seed should be broadcasted thickly. Watering in dry weather is all that is required till the plants are fit to cut, which should be done as soon as they have made the first three or four leaves. Saving Seed. — To save seed, plant a few roots in a warm situation about the middle or end of February. These will flower towards^ the end of July or early in August, and ripen their seed a month or six weeks later. The flowering stems should be supported by sticks. CHIVES. [Allium schcBnoprasum.') This very old-fashioned and well-known hardy perennial plant is a native of Britain. It is grown for the leaves, which, being cut close to the ground and chopped into small pieces, are used in salads and soups instead of young onions. Although chives will flourish almost anywhere, they prefer a light, rich, warm soil, and an open situation. Although they will grow fairly well for ten or more years in the same spot, it will be advisable to shift them every five or six years. The plant is propagated by dividing the roots either in March or September, and planting them in small tufts, 6 or 7 in. apart, in rows from 10 to 12 in. asunder ; giving water at the roots to settle the soil about them if the weather should be dry. The plant is a very rapid grower, and soon forms large masses of leaves, which the oftener they are cut the more tender they become. CORN SALAD, or LAMB'S LETTUCE. ( Valerianella olitoria.') This is a very useful and hardy salad vegetable, furnishing a good substitute for lettuce, but sometimes used in preference to the more popular salad plant. It does well in any light garden soil, in a border with a south or west aspect. The ground, having been dug, should be trod, raked level, and the seed sown thinly in drills about 1 in. deep and 12 in. asunder, afterwards closing the soil in with the feet, treading, raking level, and watering if necessary. The plants should be thinned out to 6 in. in the row, afterwards cut every 46 3JY GABDENJili : alternate plant close to the ground, as required for use. The thinnings may be transplanted to extend the crop. One ounce of seed will sow a drill fifty or sixty yards long. CRESS, AMERICAN. (^Barbarea prrpco^r.) This, notwithstanding its generic name, is a native of England. It is a perennial plant, growing naturally by the sides of brooks. It prefers a light, moist soil. It is raised from seed, which should be sown the end of August or early in September for winter and spring use. The seed should be sown thinly, in drills 1 in. deep and 9 in. apart, closing in the soil, treading, and raking it over afterwards in the ordinary way. The young plants should be thinned out to 4 or 5 in. in the row. The leaves are used for the same purpose as those of the common garden cress. If required for summer, it may be sown in a shady spot in May and July. CRESS, GARDEN. {Lepidiuin sativum.) This hardy annual, although said to be a native of Persia, has been cultivated in this country since the year 1548. There are five or six varieties of cress enumerated in catalogues, but the plain and curled, or Normandy cress, are the two varieties generally grown. Seed and. Sowing. — Sow thinly at intervals of a fortnight from March to September in a moist, shady situation. The seed may be sown either iti small patches about 16 in. square or in short shallow drills from 4 ft. or upwards in length, according to requirements. A board or a mat placed over the seed will hasten the process of germination, but should be removed as soon as the plants appear. CRESS, WATER. {Nasturtium officinale.) This hardy perennial is a native of Britain, where it is found growing in ditches and small' streams. It is said to possess antiscorbutic properties. It is easily raised from seed sown in a moist dileh, or bv divisions of the roots ; the latter being the general and most expe- ditious method of propagation. Two ounces of seed will sow .an area of three square yards. THE CULTURE OF YEOKTABLES. 47 CUCUMBER, RIDGE. ( Ciic'iimis sativiis.) The ciiBumber is supposed to be u native of Asiii. It was ciiltivateil and in general use in Egypt in the earliest ages. Soil. — Three parts of light loam and one of well-rotted manure or liorse-droppiug, well-mixed, suit the cucumber admirably. The best varieties of ridge cucumbers to grow are : — 1. King of the Ridge. — This attains to a length of from 12 to 15 in. it is straight, is not ribbed, is very productiAe, and of excellent flavoiu'. JiU- lii. I-LINi; OF THE nUDOE Ct'CL'JIBEIi. 2. Improved Stockwood Long Ridge is a much-esteemed, robust- growing, and very prolific variet\', producing smooth, straight I'rnit from 12 to 16 in. long. Long Prickly is also a good and well known variety. Short Prickly is very hardy, an abundant bearer, and useful for pickling. Cardiff Castle, Rochford, and Telegraph are the best to grow in frames and liouses. Preparing the Ridge. — Open a trench about 3 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep, fill this with hot dimg and fermenting leaves thrown together in a heap a fortnight previously, and turned twice to allow of the rank steam escaping. This should be trodden firmly together. Then fix the position of your plants with sticks placed 5 ft. apart in the centre of the ridge, and deposit at these points about y in. in depth of prepared mould, spreading it about 1 ft. around each stick. Place on these 2-ft. circular spaces of soil the necessary number of hand-glasses, in which to laise and subsequently grow the plants for the first four or five weeks. The remainder of the t?ench should then be filled up with the excavated soil. Seed and Sowing. — About the .middle of March sow seed enough — ■singly in 3-in. pots three^T>|^ widl®'^ ^^^^^ '^^^*' ''''^'^ ''"'' — *° ''^'^® *-^^ desired number of plan* " jach hand-^glass. Cover the seed with 48 J/Y GAUJJJiyER : ^ in. of soil, water, and plunge the pots to the rims in the soil in one of the hand-lights prepared as recom- naended above. When the plants are about 2 in. high, fill the remaining portion of the pots up to within ^ in. of the top with a little of the soil taken out of the hand-light, which will be the same temperature as that in which the plants are growing, pressing it gently about the roots, and give tepid water at the roots when the soil becomes dry on the surface. The hand-glasses should be covered at night with mats and a little dry litter or fern until the end of April, when the mats will be sufficient, and these may be dispensed with three weeks later. When the plants have made three rough or perfect leaves, they should be stopped by pinching off the tops of the shoots. Planting, — As soon as the cucum- bers have partly filled the pots with loots, they should be planted one in the centre of each light, and the same depth as they had been in the pots, pressing the soil about their roots and giving a little tepid water to settle the soil. They should be ■shaded from sunshine with a mat or a large leaf of rhubarb until the loots have taken to the new soil, after which a little air should be given duringtheheat of theday. The hand- lights should be closed quite tight at about 2 o'clock in the afternoon, after syringing or damping the plants lightly with a fine-rosed watering- pot, using slightly warmed water for 'the purpose. This promotes a growing leat in the lights. They should only b\damped on bright, sunny days -^ing and Stopping the Plants. -■e or four shoots, resulting TBE CULTUBE OF VEGETABLES. 49 from tlie first stopping of the plants, regularly over the beJ ; at the same time placing three brickbats underneath the hand-lights to alloiv of the shoots extending outside their limits. When these shoots have attained a length of about 18 in., pinch off the points. This will cause one or two cucumbers to set on each shoot aud side shoots lo pusli forth. The shoots siiould be stopped at one joint beyond the fruit. About the middle or end of June the hand-lights may be removed. TMuuing the Shoots. — Avoitl crowding the shoots and over-cropping the plants as the worst evils in cucumber culture, or, for that matter, in the culture of fruit-bearing plants of any description. Therefore, keep the shoots well thinned and stopped, aud remove all bad leaves as soon as they appear on the plants. The plants should be kept moist at the roots. The cucumbers should be cut before they become overgrown or lose the dark-green colour, which generally indicates crispness, and be placed on end in a saucer containing \ in. of water in a cool room or cellar until required for use. ENDIVE. ( Cichorium endivia.^ This hardy annual is said to be a native of the East Indies. The fact that it can be had at a time of year (winter) when salad ingredients are scarce enhances its value considerably. There are several varieties of the curled (C. E. crispa) and broad leaved (C. E. latifolia) forms now in cultivation. The best are : — , 1. Extra Fine Green Curled. — This is the finest known type of curled endive, and is very ornamental. 2. White Curled. — Leaves 7 to 9 in. long, wide, open heart, growing flat on the ground. It is best cut young for salads. 3. Moss Curled. — Leaves small and very finely cut aud curled. 4. Broad-leaved Batavian. — Leaves long and broad. It requires to be tied up for blanching. 5. Curled Batavian. — The leaves are not so long nor so broad as those of the preceding variety ; but they are, as the name implies, curled at the edges. Soil — Any rich soil, providing it is light and rests on a gravelly sub- soil, and be away from the shade of trees, will suit the requirements of endive. Sowing. — A small sowing may be made the middle of May,, another (main sowing) the middle of June,, and- again a month or six weeks^ later for the winter crop. Plants raised in May or June, if not kept uniformly moist at the roots, are likely to run to seed. The seed should be sown, thinly in, beds 4 ft_ wide, covering lightly, and afterwards, D 50 jVT GARBENEH : raking the surface of the bed level, and watering through a fine- rosed watering can, in the event of the weather being dry, and until the plants appear. Transplanting'. — As soon as the plants have made 3 in. of growth they should be carefully taken up, while the soil about the roots is moist, and be replanted — the curled -leaved varieties — in rows 12 in. apart, and the same distance in the row ; setting the plants ill each succeeding row alternately to those in the adjoining rows ; giving 3 in. more each way to Batavian plants. In planting, make the soil moderately firm about the roots ; taking care not to bury the heart leaves, or let the soil into them in the process of planting. When the planting is completed, give suflicient water to settle the soil about the roots, repeating the application at short intervals (daily) until the plants have established themselves. If the planting is done in showery weather, it will not be necessary to give water. Blanching the Plants. — In ten or twelve weeks from the time of sowing, the plants will nearly have attained full size, and will be ready for blanching. This operation is accomplished in various ways. Generally, the leaves are brought together and tied up near the top with bands of matting, putting an additional tie round the middle a week or ten days later. The leaves should be quite dry when tied up, and should occasion arise for giving water to the plants after they liave been tied up, it should only be given at the roots, avoiding wetting the leaves. The plants may also be blanched by placing inverted flov/er-pots over them, covering the hole in the Ijottom with a little moss or piece of slate ; or by placing boards on each side of the row of' plants, leaniug their upper edges- sigainst each other so as to form a roof, and excluding the light at the ends with pieces of board or slate. Endive for standing, the winter should be planted at the foot of south or west walls or fences, where they can be easily protected during severe weather In- a sprinklino- of fern or long litter. Sufficient plants to afford a supply for a week should be covered at one time. The time necessary to effcict blanching varies from ten days lo three weeks, a longer period being required for effecting the process in winter than in summer when growth is rapid. To Save Seed. — Select a few of the finest specirrtens of the autumn- raised plants, protected through the winter, and plant them out in a warm situation early in March. Tie the flower-stems to stakes or strings twisted round a few upright sticks to prevent them beino- broken by the wind. The seed will not ripen at one time, and must be gathered at intervals. It should be spread out on a cloth for a few days to dry, when it may be rubbed out, cleaned, and put into a bag or bags for future use. It remains good for five years. One ounce will sow four s(|u:ire yards. THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. ol GARLIC. (^Allium sativum.)' Is a hardy perennial, and a native of Sicily and the south of France. It is grown for the bulbs, which are used in stews, soups, &(i., but not so generally in Britain as in Spain, Germany, Italy, and the south of France, its strong flavour and clinging aroma causing it to be sparingly used in high-class cookery. A light, rich soil is most suitable for the growth of garlic. It is propagated by separating the cloves of the bulbs, and planting them 6 in. asunder in shallow drills from 9 to 12 in. apart, towards the end of February or early in March, barely covering the top or apex of bulbs with soil. When the leaves turn yellow, towards the middle or end of July, the plants may be taken up and put to dry in the sun for a few days, when they should be tied up by the stalks in bunches, and suspended in a dry shed out of the reach of frost. The bulbs may also be spread out on a shelf in a dry room. GOURD. {Cucu7-bita.) The species and varieties of gourd are numerous ; they are natives of the warm parts of both hemispheres, and especially in India. They may be described as half-hardy annuals. The varieties cross readily with each other ; therefore it is almost impossible to keep any one variety distinct, if others are growing close by and flowering at the same time. The varieties mostly cultivated are : — 1. Large Yellow Gourd. (Cucubita maxima), the largest variety ill cultivation, one having been found to weigh 240 lbs. This specimen was produced in Devonshire. The stems are thick, running along the ground 20 or 30 ft., if not pinched, and taking root freely at the joints. ' The leaves are very large. This gourd is only fit to use when fully matuied. 2. Egg-shaped Gourd is excellent in a ripe state, cooked as a vegetable. Flesh firm and red, with a hard, shelly skin. It is a very free grower, and highly prolific. Large Green, Ohio Squash, and Mammoth are also good varieties. Soil. — The richer the soil in which the gourd seedlings are set, the better will be the crop secured. Indeed, the largest and finest fruits I have ever seen were taken off plants placed in a barrow-load of good loamy soil placed on top of an old hot-bed, into which the roots pushed freely ;in search of sustaining food and moisture. I have D 2 52 J/Y GABDEXEB : also known most satisfactory results to be obtained from plants set on a few barrow-loads of soil deposited on a rubbish-heap, which had been turned over once or twice previously and made level on the top. Seed and Sowing. — Seed should be sown in a gentle heat, early in April, and grown under a hand-light or frame, transferring the plants to the ridge or bed about the middle or end of May, and protecting them from frost and cutting winds by means of a few spruce or other boughs stuck round the plants. These will also shade them from the sun until the roots have got hold of the soil, when they may be dispensed with. If hand-glasses are at command, the plants, as a matter of course, will do much better underneath them than would otherwise be the case. Plants may be raised from seed sown in May in the open ground ; but such plants are late in coming into bearing. After Treatment, — The plants should be pinched when they have made three rough or perfect leaves ; afterwards stopping the side shoots, resulting from the first stopping, at one joint beyond the fruit blossom, which will be about 3 ft. from the main stem ; allowing a like growth to be made before repeating the operation. Keep the shoots properly thinned out ; also, where too many blooms have set to attain to' due dimensions the young fruit should be removed. Plants growing upon dung beds, as indicated, are not likely to suffer from want of moisture at the roots, but, where not so grown, water should be freely given at the roots in dry weather. Insect Attacks. — Should mildew attack the plants, dust over the leaves while damp with flowers of sulphur. This disease attacks the plants during excessively damp and cold weather, and sometimes during seasons the reverse of this, through the soil being allowed to become too dry. If fly or Aphis infest the plants, they should be dislodged by syringing them with soapy water after the-sun has gone off the plants in the afternoon. These remedies are also applicable to cucumber plants similarly affected. HORSERADISH. (Cochlearia armoracia.) Horseradish has long been associated with the roast beef of old England. It is a hardy perennial, and is indigenous to or naturalised in Britain. It is grown for its underground stems. It is antiscorbutic, and so important for a maritime nation, as the roots may be kept fresh for several weeks, indeed, for months, by burying them in sand or damp moss, or even by wrapping them up in a damp cloth or skin. Soil, — The finest sticks of horseradish are secured from plants set in a deep, well-mannred soil, not under the shade of trees, as is too often THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 53 the case, but in an open situation. This root, like many other plants, if worth growing at all, which it undoubtedly is, is worth growing well. Therefore, a planting of it should be made every year in December or early in January. Preparing the Soil. — Open a trench 2 ft. wide and 18 in. deep, which fill up and raise to the height of 18 in. from the ground line with well- rotted dung and leaves, or, failing the leaves or leaf-mould, dung and light garden soil well mixed, treading the whole well together, as the ridge is being made into the required shape. Then put the line down 6 in. from either side of the ridge, and cover with soil, thus making a ridge 18 in. wide on the top, with the centre 3 in. lower than the sides and ends, thereby forming a sort of trough for the water. Planting. — Having taken up part of the old plantation to select roots from for making the new, select the second-sized roots from 15 to 25 in. long, having every little rootlet the entire length rubbed off, by drawing the roots through the closed hand, holding a piece of rough cloth ; then plant them in their entirety, with a long dibber or pointed stick, in two rows 1 ft. between and about 18 in. apart in the rows, and slanting slightly towards the interior, with the crowns about 1 in. under the surface. A plantation should be made every year in proportion to the quantity of horseradish used, so as to always have a good supply of it — good in quality as well as quantity. Good specimens of horseradish may also be obtained by planting roots prepared as described in holes made with the crowbar in deep, rich soil, filling in the holes with a little fine mould after setting the roots. JEEUSALEM ARTICHOKE. {^Helianthus tuherosus.^ This hardy tuberous-rooted perennial is a native of Brazil. It really is not an artichoke, and it is only so called on account of its resemblance to that root in flavour, and not because it belongs to the same family. Neither is its name derived from the city of Jerusalem, the word in this case being only a corruption of the Italian name Girasole. The tubers are baked, roasted, or boiled, and served with milk or butter, and in many other ways. Soil — The Jerusalem artichoke will succeed in any kind of soil, but, in common with many other roots, it does best in a rich, sandy loam away from the shade of trees. The stock is increased by planting small entire tubers or sets from larger ones, furnished with a couple of eyes each. Preparing the Ground anl Planting. — The ground should be deeply dug and, if necessary, liberally minured, but if the ground has beeu 54 MY GABDEKER : well manured for the previous year's crop it need only be dug, as an additional dressing so soon after would have a tendency to produce an undue amount of stalk at the expense of the tubers. The tubers or sets may be planted any time between the middle of January and the end of February in suitable weather. They should be planted 5 or 6 in. deep in rows at from 2 to 3 ft. apart and 1 ft. asunder in the rows ; afterwards closing the soil over the tubers. The rows should run north and south to admit of the sun's action between the rows. The after treatment consists in keeping the beds free from weeds by running the Dutch hoe between the rows occasionally until storing time in November. Although the roots are safe from frost, and will remain fresher in the ground during winter, it will be necessary to lift a portion of the crop for immediate use in case frosty weather should set in. The remainder of the crop should be lifted early in spring and be stored away in a pit similarly to potatoes ; or in a cool shed, covering the roots to preserve their freshness. The tubers should be taken up with a fork in preference to a spade, care being taken in digging them to remove all the tubers, or they will spring up in the succeeding crops. Insect Attacks. — The only insect known to be injurious to this plant is the Jerusalem artichoke Aphis (Rhizobius helianthemi). It feeds upon the tubers, but is only found in small numbers, and does little, if any, damage. Ilalf a peck of small artichokes will plant a row from 40 to 50 ft. long. KOHL-RABI. {Brassica oleracta caulo-rapa.') This plant is much cultivated in Germany, and is now grown more or less in some English gardens. The upper part of the stem swells into a round mass. Kohl-rabi is v;ery hardy, not being affected even by severe frost, and it withstands drought better than the turnips. Varieties. —There are five or six known varieties of the kohl-rabi cultivated. These include White Kohl-Eabi, Purple Kohl-Eabi, and Early Dwarf Kohl-Eabi. Full-grown bulbs of the first named attain to a weight of from 8 to 10 lbs. each. Sowing. — Kohl-rabi may be sown thinly in a well-manured piece of light ground in drills about 1 in. deep, and from 12 to 15 in. apart, and in due time thin the young plants out 9 in. apart in the rows. The only after cultivation necessary is to keep the plants free from weeds and to stir the soil between the rows with a Dutch hoe a few times during the summer months. The crop will be fit for use when the bulbs have attained to the size of from 2 to 3 in. in diameter. The THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. kohl-rabi veiy rarely suffers from the attacks of insects, seed will sow four square yards. One ounce of LEEK. (^Allium porrumj) Is a hardy perennial plant, said to be a native of Switzerland, and was grown in this country before the year 1562. The leek is not so much appreciated in the southern parts of England as it is in tlie north, and in Scotland and Wales. There are several excellent varieties of the leek in cultivation, the best being : — 1. Prizetaker. — With good cultivation this variety attains an unusually large size ; being thick, pure white, very mild, and agreeable in flavour. '2. Improved Musselburgh. — A very large and hardy variety, the stems being long, thick, and white. o. London Flag. — Tall, with a thick stem and broad leaves, a very good old variety, and extensively grown by market gardeners. Other good varieties are The Lyon, Ajrton Castle, and Carentan. Soil. — A light, sandy loam, enriched with good farmyard manure, is, in connection with good cultivation, capable of producing the very best results in weight and quality of crop. Fly. 18. PKIZETAKER LEEK. Preparing the Ground. — The ground should be deeply dug, and, as indicated, well manured, breaking the soil fine in digging. Sowing the Seed. — Two sowings may be made, one at the end of February and the other at the end of March, in warm situations. The seed should be sown tliinly broadcast on a seed bed prepared in the usual way, and covered lightly with soil taken from the alley, and broken fine before being scattered over the bed. It should then be raked level, patted with the back of the spade to compress seed and soil, and protected from birds with a piece of Sfarden rottirs. 56 MY GARDENER : Pricking out and Transplanting.— The young plants should be pricked out 2 in. apart in a warm corner before they become crowded in the seed bed, the soil being moist about the roots before drawing the plants. In' pricking out and transplanting the roots of the plants should be brought together in one hand, and then be shortened back with a sharp knife to within 1 in. or so of the bulb. If the weather should be dry at planting time, give some water at the roots immediately after planting, and more or less frequently for a few weeks afterwards, according to the condition of the weather and the nature of the soil ; but when it can be done without having to keep the plants too long in the seed or nursery beds, dull, showery weather should be chosen for the transplanting of leeks, like all other plants. In planting in hole at from 6 to 9 in. from plant to plant in ground of the, description and prepared as indicated above, so long as the tops of the plants show above ground, it does not matter, as they will push well into growth as soon as the roots take hold of the soil, which they will speedily do, a little fine soil having been worked into each hole with the setting-stick in planting to cover the roots, the entire space round the individual plants being filled in in due time in the process of hoeing and by the force of the rains. After Treatment. — If the leeks are planted in trenches like celery, they should be earthed up once or twice during the summer months to blanch the stem, while those planted in deep holes as indicated will thereby become thoroughly blanched up to the heart leaves of the plants without drawing any soil up to them for that purpose above ground. The leeks will be fit for use from September to spring, the plants raised from last sowing continuing the supply to the end of April, when the remaining portion of the plant should be taken up and planted closely together the same depth as before in a border having a north aspect, so as to prevent them from running to stalk. Seed. — A few of the finest specimens and most vigorous-growing plants should be taken up early in March and planted in a warm situation, sheltered from the north, giving water at the roots when planted, and subsequently supporting the flower stems by tying them to stakes stuck firmly in the ground. When the heads of seed turn brown in September, they may be cut off with stems 7 or 8 in. long, and half-a-dozon tied together, and be suspended for a few months in a dry, airy shed, afterwards rubbing out the seed, cleaning and storing it away in a bag. It will retain its vegetative powers for three years. One ounce of seed will sow two square yards. LETTUCE. {JiUctuca saliva.') Ever since 1562 has this hardy annual been cultivated in the gardens of Great Britaiu and Ireland. The lettuce is a native of Asia, but of what TSE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 57 particular part of that continent is uncertain. Tlie inference to be drawn by the names of several varieties is, that they have come from the Levant and the Greek Archipelago. The several varieties now in cultivation belong to two classes : those having round, depressed, spreading heads are called cabbage lettuce, and those of oblong form and erect growth are known under the name of cos lettuce, and under these respective headings we shall speak of them. Cos Lettuce. 1. Giant White is a grand variety for summer cultivation ; no tying required ; heads very solid, and crisp eating. 2. Eingsholme is a popular and very excellent variety for late summer and autumn use. Other good summer varieties are Paris Green and Paris White. 3. Leviathan is the best winter and spring cos lettuce in cultivation. The leaves are broad and of a brown shade on the outside of the plants, but the hearts are beautifully golden and tender ; it is an improvement on the Bath Cos. 4. Hardy White is indispensable for winter and spring cultivation. ^J^7^ Fig. 19. GIAXT WHITE COS LETTUCE. Cabbage Lettuce. 5. Giant. —This is a very large and excellent lettuce, the heads being crisp and white. 6. Tom Thumh. — This, as the name implies, is a dwarf compact- growing variety, and therefore may be planted closer to one another than any of the other varieties described in this work. 7. Favonrite is very distinct and handsome, good for summer and autumn use. The head of fringed leaves is crisp, tender, and solid ; usually grows to a large size, and remains good for a long time without running to seed. 8. Grand Admiral. — Medium-sized heads, solid and crisp. 9. All the Year Eound is another excellent summer lettuce, of compact habit. 58 MY GARBENEn : 10. Marvel (or Eed-edged). — This is a beautifully curled variety ; the. outer leaves are edged with dark crimson and the hearts are of a pale golden tinge. It is very crisp and sweet, and stands well during dry weather, and is invaluable for autumn sowing. 11. Immense Hardy G-reen is also a most desirable variety for autumn sowing for standing through thQ. Avinter. Soil. — The lettuce will do well in any ordinary good soil, inclining to be liglit rather than heavy in texture ; and for early and late plantings a warm and rather dry situation is preferable to a cool moist one, but for summer and early autumn sowings and plantings these conditions should be reversed, as the plants will then grow better and be less liable to run to seed than they would if planted in a sunny aspect and a rather dry, light soil. If the ground is not naturally rich it should be liberally dressed with well-rotted manure. Preparing the Ground. —The manure should be dug into the ground a good spit de^p some time before setting the plants therein, when it can be conveniently done, treading and raking it over immediately before sowing and planting. But very good results can and are annually secured by jjlanting the ground the same day it is dug. Fi(j. 20. trIANT CABBAGE LETTUCE. •.Seed and Sowing.— If a small frame is at command it should be placed on ci gentle hot-bed, composed of dung and leaves (about three parts of the latter to two of the former), which sliould have been mixed and turned over once or twice a fortnight previously. This should be made about -1 ft. high at the back, aiii 6 in. lower iu front THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 59 iu a dry situation, i.e., where there is uo possibility of water lodging, facing the south and sheltered from the north by a wall or fence of some sort. After the frame is placed on the bed put sufficient dung and leaves inside vo raise the bed all round up to within 9 in. of the top, following this with 5 in. thick of light soil, with which a few shovelfuls of fresh soot, if to be had, should be mixed, with a view to purifying the soil rather than enriching it ; make this level and sow thereon a pinch of White Cos and Favourite Cabbage, to which, if more varieties are desired, may be added Paris Green Cos and G-raud Admiral Cabbage. A pinch of seed of cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, &c. may be sown at the same time, devoting to each sort and variety a space of from 9 to 15 superficial in., according to circumstances. Cover the seed lightly, to the thickness of nearly \ iu., with fine soil, patting it with the back of the spade or shovel. Keep the frame close, covering the sashes at night with mats, fern or any dry litter that may be at hand. Early in February will be soon enough to make this sowing. As soon as the little jjlants appear sufficient air should be given to prevent them from making a weakly or spindly growth, increasing the amount of air admitted to the frame as the time for pricking the plants out under hand-lights or in a warm border (under the protection of a mat or piece of canvas at night) approaches. Where the frame or hand-light accommodation do not exist the seed should be sown in a warm corner out of doors at the time indicated in the ordinary way, and in order to ward off the attacks of chaffinches and other birds, cover with a piece of garden netting, kept a few inches above the ground by means of forked sticks. The plants resulting from this sowing wiU in due time succeed those raised from seed sown about the middle or 25th of the previous August. A second sowing should be made the middle of March, a thu-d the second week in April — this time sowing as many of the summer varieties as the cultivator may have on a border having a west aspect ; the first and last weeks in May, and again the third week in June, successional stoall sowings should be made. The June sowing, as well as one made the end of the second week in July, should consist of such varieties as Paris Green Cos, Leviathan Cos, Kingsholme Cos, and Marvel (or Ked edged; Cabbage. TL.e plants raised from these sowings will come in for use in autumn and early winter. The last sowing, to produce plants for use in cool pits under glasb in February and March, and iu warm borders outside, in April, May, and the first week or two. in June, should, as stated above, be made from the middle to the 25th of August. This should consist of Improved Black-seeded Bath Cos, Hardy White Cos, Immense Hardy Green Cabbage, and Marvel Cabbage. 60 Mr GAUDEXEn : Pricking out and Transplanting the Plants. —Repeating our instruc- tions respecting cabbage and other plants, as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they should be pricked out, those from the early and late sowings in cold pits and dry, sunny borders, where a little protection of some kind can be given the plants when necessary, in rows 3 or 4 in. apart and at the same distance from plant to plant in the rows, other sowings being pricked out in west borders and in open situations during the summer months. If this operation can be carried out in dull, showery weather, so much the better will it be for the plants. But if, in waiting for the arrival of such favourable circum- stances, the. plants for pricking out, as well as those for transplanting in the open, are likely to get " crowded," they should be set out before that very undesirable mark of neglect is reached, and be -watered at the roots then and afterwards, in the absence of rain, to insure a quick and crisp growth. If the ground is ready by the time the young plants are fit for pricking out, they may be transplanted at once in rows 12 in. apart and at the same distance, in the rows, giving water through a rosed watering-can to settle the soil about the roots. The ground having been previously trodden and raked over, the soil should be made moderately firm about the roots in planting. The transplanting from the nursery beds should be done before the plants touch, taking them up carefully with a garden trowel with nice little balls of soil adhering to the roots, and planting them at the distances indicated. Celery ridges are profitably utilised for a month or six weeks, until it is necessary to land up the celery, by planting thereon a couple of rows of lettuce (see "Pkepaeing of Cbleet Teenches"). Where the ground is plentiful there can be no question about the finest specimens of lettuce being obtained by sowing, the seed very thinly, say, 3 or 4 in. apart in drills about 1 in. deep and 12 in. asunder, the ground having been previously prepared by manuring, digging, treading, and raking the surface level, afterwards closing the soil over the seed with the feet, treading and raking it over once more in the usual way. In due time the plants should be . thinned out, first at 6 in. and subsequently at 12 iu. from plant to plant in rows, in case of blanks occurring while the plants are small. And, if necessary to extend the plantation, the thinnings may be transplanted in the usual way, giving water at the roots, as a matter of course. The plants resulting from sowings made the third week in June and the end of the second week in July will, as stated above, come in for use in autumn and early winter, and they should be taken carefully up with a good bit of soil attached to the roots on the approach of frost — say, from the middle to the end of October — and be laid in the same depth in the soil as they were before, in a pit or warm sheltered border from which frost and heavy raius can TBB CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 61 be kept out, giving water at the roots to settle the soil about them. At the same time avoid wetting the leaves, especially at the centre or heart, as the lodgment of water there at that time of year would probably cause them to rot. The plants should be given space enough to admit of light and air reaching them individually, and the lights or shutters or other protection employed should be removed daily, in the absence of frost or heavy rains or snow ; the enemy to be guarded against in the preservation of these table-sized plants being damp. The plants raised from the August sowing shoiUd be pricked out, as previously stated, in cool pits and warm and dry borders having a south or west aspect, in rows about 3 in. apart and at the same distance in the rows, making the soil firm about the roots, but taking care not to press the " dibber " (consisting of a stick about 1 in. in diameter and pointed at one end) unduly against either root or stem in the process. Sometimes slugs are very troublesome and determined in their attacks on these plants. They should be hunted up and destroyed, afterwards trailing a mixture of fresh soot and freshly-slaked lime occasionally along the sides and ends of the piece of ground or bed occupied with the plants as a means of keeping these slimy depredators at bay. As early in February or March as the nature of the weather permits, make a planting of the August-raised plants in a nice, rich piece of ground, having a south or west aspect, and, if possible, sheltered from the north and east by a wall or fence of some sort. Level the soil up round the stems of the plant set out thus early in the season, so as to prevent the possibility of water lodging about their collars. In making plantations during the summer, it will be advantageous to leave a slight depression round the collars of the plants for the reception of water. The early plantings should have a few spruce or other boughs stuck in the ground between the rows as a protection from frost and cutting winds for a week or ten days until the plants are re-established. Successional plantings should be made every three weeks from March to the middle of August. After Treatment. — This consists in keeping the plants in every stage of growth' moist at the roots, as, in the absence of rain, and particularly if the soil happens to be of a light description and conse- quently non-retentive of moisture, liberal supplies of water should, if good, solid heads of crisp lettuce are aimed at, be applied at the roots. Make a free use of the Dutch hoe between the rows of plants and keep them free from weeds. Blanching the Heads. — In order to obtain as great a portion of the leaves of the individual heads of lettuce as white and crisp as possible, recourse should be had to tying up the leaves, but not too tightly, with bands of matting when the heads have nearly attained to their full 62 Mr GARDENER: size. As the leaves of the cos lettuce are self-folding, thej do Bot, as a rule, require to be tied up, although, by doing so, the process of blanching is more effectually performed. The tying up of the heads should be done when' the leaves are dry. The cabbage lettuce generally requires tying up to become thoroughly blanched. Saving Seed. — The autumn-raised plants are the best for seed. Selecting the finest specimens of the respective varieties for this purpose, those that heart quickly but show least disposition to send up their flower- spikes are to be preferred. And in order to keep the varieties true, only one variety should be " seeded " in any one garden at the same time. The seed, if properly ripened, will retain vitality for three or four years. The seed which ripens first on the plant is the best, so the branchlets which first ripen their seeds should be cut off' before the seed has reached the " dropping " stage of maturity, and spread out on a cloth in the sun to dry for a few days ; after which the seed may be rubbed out, cleaned, and put away in the seed- store for future use. Insect Attacks. — The lettuce is subject to the attacks of various insects. These include the caterpillars of the Garden Swift {Hepialus lupulinus), of the Heart-and-Dart Moth {Agrotis exclamationis), of the common Dart Moth (A. segetum), and the maggots of the Spotted Crane Fly {Tipula maculosa) ; and these quickly make their presence known by the havoc which they work among the perpendicular or tap- roots of the plants. Wireworms, which are the larvae of several kinds of Agriotes, are sometimes very troublesome by eating the roots and stems, too. Occasionally the leaves of the lettuce are attacked by the caterpillar of the Cabbage Moth {^Mamestra hrassicce) and of the Lettuce Fly (^Anthomyia lactucce). The best remedy for the above- named depredators is to well surface-dress the ground immediately before planting with fresh soot, scratching it into the soil, making the ground fine and level with the rake. A few annual dressings of this powerful fertiliser will rid the ground of all insects, and .a slight sprinkling of a mixture of lime and soot over the seedling plants before they come into flower, and while the leaves are damp, will make short work of the Lettuce Fly. LIQUORICE. (^Glycyrrhiza glabra.) This perennial plant is a native of Europe. Its flesh root runs deep into the ground, and its stem rises from 3 to 5 ft. above ground), and is clothed with dark green pinnate leaves. The sweet mucilaginous juice, extracted from the roots by boiling, is much appreciated as an emollient in colds. Large quantities of liquorice are grown in Surrey for the use of druggists. A. plant or two is kept in most gardens. THE aULTUJlE OF VMGETABLES. W> The roots are sliced and boiled iu water, the liquor is strained, and allowed to evaporate till it acquires a proper consistence. Soil.^ — A deep, rich, sandy soil is best suited to the growth of liquorice. It is propagated by portions of the stem, commonly called the creeping root, which push underneath the surface for a distance of 4 or 5 in. These should be forked up early in November and cut off close to the main stems, and be stored away in sand until planting time. They should be planted in rows 3 ft. asunder, giving 18 in. between the plants, early in March, covering the soil to a thickness of about 2 in. In autumn, after the sap has returned to the roots and the leaves have performed their proper functions, the old stems should be eiit off close to the ground with a prnning knife. The ground between the rows should be forked once in the year, and Dutch -hoed frequently to keep weeds down. The roots will be ready for taking up three years after planting. Taking up the Roots. — Early in November a trench, from 2 to 3 ft. deep, according to the length of the roots, should be taken out close to and parallel with the row of liquorice plants, and a rope being fastened round the top, the roots should be pnlled up and stored in sand, or they may, if there is a large quantity, be put in pits like potatoes. MARIGOLD, or POT MARIGOLD. (^Calendula officinalis.) Is a hardy annual and a native of the south of Europe. It fiads a jilace in the kitchen garden by reason of its flowers, which are used to flavour soups. The varieties cultivatfd are : — 1 . Common, or Single-Flowered Marigold. 2. Double-Flowered Marigold. The marigold will flourish in any ordinary garden soil and requires no special treatment. Indeed, as a rule, plants come up annually from self-sown seeds. The marigold is, as already stated, propagated from seed, which should be sown early in April in drills between! and 2 in. deep and 1 ft. apart ; afterwards thinuing out the plants 1 or 2 in. high to 9 in. in the rows. These plants will flower from June to September. When the flowers are full-blown they may be gathered, dried in the shade, and put away in paper bags for winter and spring use. MARJORAM. i^OrigarMtn.) The aromatic leaves x)f this plant are used both in a green and dried state for seasoning soups and other dishes. The species cultivated are ; — 64 J/r GARDENER : 1. Common Marjoram (^Origanum vulgare). — This British perennial plant may be raised either from seed sown in April, or by divisions of the roots planted 1 ft. apart in any kind of soil that is not very moist in March and October. 2. Pot Marjoram {Origanum onites) is a perennial plant, a native of Sicily, and, although it flowers from July to November, it rarely ripens its seed in England. It is propagated by dividing the roots in March, planting in rows 1 ft. apart and at from 9 to 12 in. in the rows. 3. Sweet, or Knotted Marjoram {Origanum majorana). — This tender biennial is a native of Egypt or Syria, whence it is supposed to have been introduced by the Romans. In the open ground it will not survive an English winter, hence it is treated as an Annual. The seed should be sown in shallow drills 12 in. asunder on a south or west border about the middle of April ; afterwards thinning out the young plants to 5 or 6 in. in the rows. The flowers appear early in July, and are gathered together into close knotted heads ; hence the term " Knotted Marjoram." The seed rarely ripens in Britain, and is had from the Continent.' 4. Winter Sweet Marjoram {Origanum heracleoticum). — This hardy perennial plant belongs to the south of Europe. The plant does best in a light, sandy, and rather dry soil, and is increased by divisions of the roots in spring and autumn, planting the divisions in rows from 15 to 18 in. apart and at about 9 in. in the row. The flowers open from June to November. The tops of all the varieties of marjoram indicated should be cut when coming into flower, and dried in the shade, then tied up in bunches, named, and put away for winter and spring use. MINT. {Mentha.) This well-known hardy perennial is a native of Britain, and there is no other herb, excepting parsley, in such constant demand. There are three species in cultivation : — 1. Coimnon, or Spear Mint {Mentha viridis), which is grown especially for the tops of the young shoots, for soups and salads, in sauce for lamb, or boiled with new potatoes, peas, and other vegetables. The method of propagatiou is very simple, and may easily be effected' by dividing the roots and planting the sections in rows 9 or 10 in. asunder and about 6 in. between in the rows early in March, covering the roots with a couple of inches of soil. Another system consists in taking cuttings from 4 to 6 in. long in summer and planting them 3 in. deep in the soil at the already prescribed distances and watering, in the absence of rain, until they have taken root. Mint will grow fairlv well in anv kind of THE CULTURE OP VEGETABLES. 65 soil and situation, but it prefers light, sandy, moist ground. When the plants are coming into flower, the tops or flowering shoots should be cut and dried in the shade, or in a screen before the fire, and be put away in bags for winter and spring use. The old stems should be cut down early in November, the beds cleaned and covered with leaf or some light mould to the thickness of a couple of inches. 2. Peppermint {Mentha piperita) is a native of England. It is grown principally for the distillation of the well-known cordial, peppermint. It is propagated in the same way and at the same time as spearmint, and requires the same description of soil and treatment as that plant. 3. Pennyroyal (^Mentha pulegiuni) is a hardy perennial British plant. It requires the same treatment as the preceding species, and is propagated in the same way and at the same time. MUSHROOM. {^Agaricus campestris.) This appetising and very nutritious edible fungus, although a native of Britain, is found pretty well in every qilarter of the earth. The seed or mycelium of the mushroom is invariably present near the surface of the soil of deer parks and downs and pasture fields on which sheep are annually fed, and only await climatic conditions, in the shape of warmth and genial rains, to give growth, form, and size to this well- known fungus. The seed of the mushroom is generated in rank soil, and in old manure beds' and decomposed leaves. It takes the form of white mould with thread-like bodies pushing into the surrounding soil, from which in due time (from July to October), if not disturbed, mushrooms would annually spring. Therefore, those who wish to succeed in the culture and production of mushrooms should, as in the case of all fruits, vegetables, and flpwers subjected to artificial treatment, first observe the conditions under which the most satisfactory results are naturally produced, and then shape their future artificial treatment accordingly. People who do this generally succeed, and vice versa. As a rule, more naturally-produced mushrooms are gatbered in September than in all the other months of the year put together. Materials for Uushroom Beds. — ^Manure from horse stables. Where this is scarce, oak or chestnut leaves, or, indeed, any kind of leaves, may be added, mixing the whole well together, turning it over three or four times at intervals of a couple of days, to allow of the rank heat escaping before forming the beds. ^^ here plenty of dung from the horse stables is at command, all the long should be shaken out, retaining the short E 66 MY GARDEJSfEB : and droppings. This should be turned over every day until it is pretty well " sweetened," that is, until all danger of violent fermentation is past. Manure obtained from stables in which the horses are mainly, if not entirely, fed on hay and corn is the best, as the manure obtained from stables in which the horses are given frequent supplies of carrots, grass, and medicine is unsuitable for making profitable mushroom beds with ; failure and disappointment would be almost sore to follow its use. Peat-moss, tan, and sawdust, which are sometimes used in horse stables, and in that way absorb the drainage and ammonia, may also be employed for the production of mushrooms, as also may fermenting leaves, where the ordinary stable litter and droppings are not at command. Where and How to make Mushroom Beds. — For outdoor beds, a dry situation, where w-ater will not accumulate, and sheltered from the north and east, should be , chosen. The condition of the manure, prepared as recommended above, should Be moderately moist, but not dry, before making it into beds. The latter may be from 2\ to 3 ft. wide at the base, and about the same height, tapering to the top like a potato ridge or clamp, treading the material well together in the process of building. Where a wall or fence is available, advantage should be taken of the position to form a bed against it about 5 ft. wide and 2\ ft. high at back, sloping down to the front. If a bed has to be formed of heated leaves it will be advisable to open a trench about 4 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep, filling this with the leaves and treading them well together. Then insert a few sticks at short intervals in the beds to ascertain the degree of heat. The test-sticks should be examined daily after the beds have been formed a couple of d-ays. And when the heat in them has declined to 80° Fahr., with no prospect of its rising above that degree, the spawn may be inserted. These remarks apply to beds made of any and all of the ingredients described above, especially so to those composed of stable manure. Caves, cellars, unused tunnels (free from the lodgment of water at all seasons) are well adapted for the production of large crops of mushrooms, the beds being made sloping from the walls to the passage, or whatever way space and shape of cave, &c. may suggest. Open sheds and such-like places may also be profitably utilised for mushroom growing where to spare. If a dry situation is not obtainable, sufficient clinkers, old rubble, or coarse gravel should be placed as a foundation for the intended beds. Inserting the Spawn. — Fresh spawn (well charged with mycelium) should be obtained from some of the many seedsmen having a reputation tor the sale of such. This is essential to success. Break the bricks into six or seven pieces, and insert these about 8 in. apart underneath the surface of the bed, drawing the manure back with one hand and THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 67 pressing the individual lumps of spawn into the openings with the other, the rough side of spawn being placed downwards, and the smooth barely underneath the surface of the bed, as indicated, pressing the displaced manure over and about the several pieces of spawn. Soiling the Beds. — When the beds are being spawned, should there appear cause for supposing that the temperature in them would rise above 80° if Tiermetically cased over, an interval of a few days should be allowed to elapse before soiling them over. Although ordinary garden soil will answer the pxirpose well, rich maiden soil of medium texture, such as may be obtained from a pasture, deer park, or downs grazed by sheep, is preferable. This should be sifted, and applied at a thickness of from l^to 2 in. when sufficiently moist to allow of a firm, smooth surface being presented when beaten with the back of the spade. The whole should then be covered with a foot thickness of litter ; that which has been rejected when preparing the manure will answer well. In the case of beds made up in the autumn — say, early in September — ^for producing mushrooms during the winter and spring months, the covering on the beds should be increased in thickness from 1 to 3 ft., according as the weather is mild or severe. I am referring to beds made out of doors. Beds in houses and sheds in which a tem- perature of from 50° to 55° can be secured, only sufficient dry grass or hay to exclude light and air need be laid on. The surface of the beds should be kept moist. And should the temperatures indicated be maintained by hot-water pipes, it will be necessary to distribute tepid or lukewarm water in the house, in order to produce and maintain a genial atmosphere. Beds made and spawned — say, in April and May — wUl probably begin to yield mushrooms in July and August, and onwards. But should none appear within three or four months from the date of inserting the spawn in the beds, do not despair ; they will come in due time if the spawn was good, and was inserted when the heat in the bed had declined to 80° or 75°. Gathering Mushrooms. — Experience tells us that the old practice of cutting the mushrooms lest the young undeveloped ones surrounding the full-grown fungi should be displaced in pulling them is faulty, and that it is quite necessary to success that the stumps should be removed with mushrooms, thereby affording more scope, if not fresh energy, to the threads of spawn or mycelium, and finally adding considerably to the productiveness of the beds. Any of my readers wishing to obtain more extended information than can be afforded in these pages, I would strongly advise to procure ilr. John Wright's " ilnsHEOOMS foe the Million." E 2 68 J^y GARDENER : MUSTARD. (^Sinapis alba.) This hardy annual is found in fields and waste places in this country. White mustard is used, in connection with tjress, as a small salad, for which purpose it is, like the cress, sown thickly and cut while in the seed leaf. Mustard is raised from seed. This, if a constant supply is required, should be sown every eight or ten days in the open ground from the end of March to the end of September, and during the remaining six months in frames. The early and late outdoor sowings should be made in a warm corner, in a. shady, moist situation. The ground should, be light and rich, and should be made firm and raked fine before sowing the seed. The seed should be sown thickly, covered lightly, afterwards patting the soil with the back of the spade or shovel, and watered through a rose. A patch of soil thus prepared of from 9 to 15 square in. will be ample for one sowing for a small family, and the space should be more or less in proportion to the size of family and the demand for small ' salading at breakfast and tea ; also putting between bread-and-butter sandwiches, &c. In very hot weather, if an old mat or cloth or a little damp moss is placed over the mustard and cress seed it will hasten the process of germination. NASTITRTIUM, or INDIAN CRESS. ( TropcBolum.) The leaves, young shoots, and flowers of this plant are frequently eaten in salads, and between bread-and-butter sandwiches. The flowers are also used to garnish dishes, and the flower-buds, leaves, and fruits, gathered when young, are pickled in vinegar and used as a substitute for capers. The species cultivated for this purpose are : — 1. Large Nasturtium {Tropa>olum majus). 2. Small Nasturtitun (TropcEolum minus). In Peru, to which country they belong, they are perennials, but are treated as annuals in Great Britain and Ireland. The plants thrive in a light, rich soil and a warm aspect. The plants are propagated from seed sown early in April, either in patches or shallow drills about 3 ft. apart, closing in the soil with the feet afterwards. T. majus attains to a height of from 5 to 8 ft., according as the soil is poor or rich, and is useful for covering poles and arches, thereby furnishing a striking example of the useful and ornamental combined. T. minus does not require any support. The only cultural attention necessary after the plants are up is the application of water to the roots in dry weather. THE CVLTVRE OF VEGETABLES. 69 NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. {Tetragonia expansa.) This is a liardy annual and is a native of New Zealand. It was introduced into this country by Sir Joseph Banks in 1772. It is inferior to the ordinary spinach, but makes a very good substitute for it in hot, dry summers, when spinach has a tendency to run to seed as soon as it has made a few inches of growth. Under similar circum- stances the New Zealand species yields a liberal supply of large juicy leaves. Hence the advisability of growing a proportion of New Zealand spinach to meet any contingency. The plants do best in a light, rich, sandy loam. They are raised from seed, which, being very hard, should be steeped for a couple of days before sowing. The seed should be sown thinly about the middle of March, underneath a hand-light placed on a space its own size, excavated to the depth of 12 in., and filled up with hot dung and leaves, and 3 in. thick of light soil on the top. When the young plants are about 2 in. high, they should be pricked out 3 or 4 in. apart under an old sash placed on a sunny border, giving (hem a few inches deep of light soil about them, and shading from sunshine for a few days until the roots have pushed into the new soil. Transplanting. — About the middle of May the plants should be carefully taken up with nice little balls, and be planted in rows running north and south 5 ft. apart, and at 3 ft. from plant to plant in the row, making the soil moderately firm about the roots in planting. Afterwards give water to settle the soil, and, in order to keep the plants growing, they should have frequent applications of water at the roots during hot, dry weather. Securing the Crop. — The young leaves should be pinched off, and not pulled, as that would most probably injure the buds at the axils of the leaves, which in due time yield an abundant supply of fresh juicy leaves during the summer and autumn months. Saving Seed. — In order to save seed, put a few plants in shallow, poor soil in a warm situation early in May, supporting the flower spikes by stakes. The seed should be gathered in the usual way when ripe early in the autumn. ONION. (^Allium cepa.) No vegetable is better known or more generally cultivated than the onion. It is grown in almost all kinds of soil and climates, from the tropics to the coldest fringe of the temperate zone. The roots and V 70 MT GARDENER : leaves of the onion are annual, and die in the course of one summer and after completing a bulb, which, however, is biennial, and, after a few months' rest, sends out new roots and produces fresh leaves, afterwards throwing up a flower spike. There are a great number of varieties of the onion in cultivation. The most reliable for spring sowing are : — 1. Improved BanMry, — -^^^ This is a splendid main crop onion, and is of exceedingly « mild flavour. It is of great j size, small neck, extra fine , quality, and excellent keeper. 2. Eeading, Improved. — 4s-~',,ss=iZ^ _ This onion is, like the other 'i/^i;— =-_ ^'^^-z^^-''^ varieties, herein described, Fi(j. 21. suitable for all kinds of soils IMPROVED BANBUBY ONION. and gardens, the bulbs being large, handsome, firm, with small neck ; a haavy cropper and excellent keeper. 3. Main Crop. — This is quick in growth, and, when fully developed, attains a large size. The bulb is handsome, solid, and of a beautiful pale straw colour, fine quality, and long keeper. 4. Selected White Spanish is a good selection of the White Spanish type, small neck, ripens and keeps well. 5. Danver's Yellow is a round, oblate form, firm, with a very slender neck. It is a very fine onion and a good keeper. 6. Market Favourite is very large in size, mild in flavour, and a good keeper. Other good varieties are Defiance, James's Keeping, Magnum Bonum, Blood Red, Deptford or Strasburg, Nuneham Park, Eousham Park Hero, Culzean Castle, and Ailsa Craig ; the latter, with good culture and generous treatment, attaining to an enormous size in the neighbourhood of Basingstoke, where I have seen twelve bulbs of this variety shown which weighed 36 lbs. in the aggregate. Varieties for July and August sowing, commonly but erroneously called autumn sowing, for producing bulbs for filling up the blank that would otherwise occur in May and June, as the onions of the previous year become used up, are : — 7. The Gueen. — A very early variety, with small, round, and very white bulbs. 8. Early White Naples, — Of quick growth, mild flavour, large and handsome. THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 71 9. Golden Globe Tripoli is a remarkably handsome and high-quality onion, and is suitable both for autumn and spring sowing. 10. Giant Bocca is of globular shape, very large, delicate flavour, and light-brown skin. 11. Silver SMn, — This is a small white onion, cultivated for " picklers." 12. Potato, or Underground Onion. — These form a number of bulbs on the parent root underground, and by means of these it is propagated and ensures a good supply, even during a very hot and dry season. Soil. — Although fairly good crops of onions may be secured from any kind of soil, ranging from peat to substantial loam, the best possible results are obtained, in connection with good culture, from seed sown in a good, rich loam, inclining to be light rather than heavy in texture, and in an open and somewhat dry situation. Preparing the Ground. — If the soil is of a strong, adhesive nature, it should be rendered more porus by the addition of leaf mould, chalk, burnt earth, coal or wood ashes in autumn, as soon as the ground is cleared of the summer crops, and should then be ridged up for the winter. Previous to ridging up, the ground should have a good dressing of well-rotted stable or farmyard manure. Advantage should be taken of fine, dry weather to level down the ridges, and dig over the whole just before sowing the seed ; then tread and rake the soil, making it level, and laying on a good surface-dressing of soot before putting in the seed. Where .onions follow celery, which is generally the case, the ground need only be levelled and deeply dug after the celery has been cleared ofi in February, afterwards treating it as indicated. Sowing the iSeed. — As early in February as the soil is sufficiently dry to prevent its adhering to the feet, the seed should be sown thinly, and evenly in drills about 1 in. deep and 1 ft. asunder. The soil should then be closed in over the seed with the feet, and again trodden down over each individual drill, and then finally raked over in the same direction as the drills, so that the bed, when finished, may present a fine, firm, and even surface. After Treatment of Slain Crop. — This consists of thinning out the young plants in due time (when a couple of inches high) to from 3 to 6 in. from plant to plant in the rows, according as the soil is poor or rich, and the usual size to which the respective varieties attain, filling up at the same time any blanks that may occur in the ranks with some of the thinnings, letting the young plants as deep into the 72 Air GARDJENER : ground as they were before. The thinning and weeding of the plants may be proceeded with together, choosing showery weather for the operation, as then the plants not only draw and transplant better, but they experience very little check. The plants must be kept free from weeds, and the soil, stirred between the rows occasionally during / the growing season, completes the necessary cultural details till the bending down of the tops of the plants early the following August. Harvesting the Crop. — As early in August the tops of the plants have turned yellow, the bulbs should be pulled and spread out in widths of about 4 ft., with their roots facing the sun. Turn them over every other day until the tops and the bulb are both thoroughly dry. The withered tops may then be cut back to within a few inches of the bulbs, which are then stored away in a loft from which frost and damp can be excluded. They should be spread out thinly on the floor of the loft or be strung together by the withered tops, and suspended from the roof. When storing the bulbs, put all the small ones by themselves for pickling or culinary purposes, for which they are frequently asked for in preference to larger ones. Sowing for " Picklers." — In order to obtain small, firm bulbs for pickling, seed of the Silver Skin Onion should be sown in spring in a somewhat poor, dry, shallow soil, in which they are not likely to make luxuriant growth ; and, with this object in view, the seed should be sown rather thickly broadcast. When the bulbs have completed their growth, they should be pulled up, and should the weather be showery at the time, spread out on boards, shutters, or hurdles to dry, in preference to laying them on the damp soil. But if the soil is dry and fine weather prevails at the time, they will do very well spread out on the ground, afterwards storing them away, as above. The Potato, or Underground Onion, should be planted early in spring in deep, rich soil, in rows 1 ft. apart and 6 in. apart in the rows, burying the bulbs barely under the surface. If larger bulbs of this and the ordinary onion are desired, they should be allowed a space of 15 in. between the rows, and 12 in. from plant to plant in the rows. The crop should be taken up and dried when the tops die down and be stored away dry. Sowing for Transplanting in Spring. — About the 25th of July and again in the middle of August are good times to sow onions for use the following May and June. In cold districts the first sowing should be made a few days earlier, and, in order to secure the best possible results, a dry and somewhat light soil should be selected in preference to a damp, heavy one, and the site should be well exposed to the south THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 73 or west. The preparation of the ground for the reception of the seed and the cultural details are the same as those recommended for spring- sown onions, so need not be again detailed. The varieties, the Queen and Early White Naples, should be used in the first sowing, and for the second and last sowing. Early WMte Naples, Giant Rocca, Golden Glohe Tripoli, or any of the other varieties of Tripoli mentioned above should be employed. The seed should be sown somewhat thickly, afterwards thinning out the young plants as required for salading during the autumn months, leaving the plants sufficiently thick in the rows toi make allowance for mishaps during the winter. The result of these sowings will, as already stated, fill the blanks that would otherwise most probably occur in May and June. Saving Seed. — When the onions are taken up, select some of the finest and best shaped bulbs, of whatever variety it is desired to save seed from. Early the following March these should be planted in a row 1 ft. apart and about A in. deep in light, rich soil in a sunny and sheltered situation. When the flower spikes push into growth they should be supported by small stakes. The seed will be ripe by the end of August or early in September, according as the season is early or late. The stalks should be cut a few inches above the ground and spread out on a cloth in the sun to dry, taking care that the seed does not get wet during the few days it is in the open air to complete the ripening process. When quite dry, the seed should be rubbed out, cleaned, and stored away in paper or other bags for use in due time. One ounce of seed will sow 4^ square yards, or a drill 80 yards long. Onion seed retains its vitality for two or three years. Insect Attacks. — The maggots of the Onion Fly {Anthomyia ceparuni), of the Brassy Onion Fly {Eumerus aiieus), of Snake- Millepedes (Juli), and of the Polydesmus complanatus frequently work havoc among the onion crops of this country. The best and only effective remedy that I know of for the prevention and eradication of the above troublesome pests is, to give the ground a good surface- dressing of fresh soot immediately before drawing the drills for the seed, scratching it into the ground in Ihe process of raking over the onion bed. The presence of insects in the ground indicates that the latter requires purifying, and for this purpose there is no better agent than fresh soot, put sufficiently thick on the ground to completely cover it. It is also, as stated more than once in this work, a capital fertiliser. The application, to be successful, should be repeated annually for all crops subject to the attacks of insects at the roots. 74 MY 6ABDBNER : ORAGE, or MOUNTAIN SPINACH. {Atriplex hortensis.^ Is a hardy annua], and a native of Tartary. There are four known varieties, viz. : — 1. White, or Pale-Green-leaved Orage. 2. Green Orage. 3. Eed Orage. 4. Dark-Ked Orage. The leaves are used as a substitute for spinach. Soil. — The plant is not particular as to soil or position, but large and juicy leaves are produced by plants growing in rich soil and in an open situation. The soil having been liberally manured, dug, trodden, and levelled with a rake, drills about 24 in. asunder and 1 in. deep should be drawn, and in these the seed should be sown very thinly about the first or second week in March, and again at the end of May for suc- cession, closing the soil over the seed, treading and raking it afterwards. If a constant supply be desired, additional sowings should be made up to September. The flowers should be pinched off, leaving a few plants to seed. The seed, being very light, and therefore likely to get blown away by the wind, should be collected before it is quite ripe, dried, and afterwards rubbed out on a cloth, cleaned, and put away in the seed store. One ounce of seed will sow a drill 100 yards long. The young plants should be thinned out to 18 in. in the row. PARSLEY. (Petroselinuni sativum.^ This well-known biennial is a native of Sardinia. It is one of those popular herbs which are used in every household, from the palace down to the humblest cottage. It is used in stufiings, for flavouring soups and stews, and for garnishing ham, chicken, &c. The Pool's Parsley {JSthusa cynapiv,m), a poisonous plant belonging to the same natural order as the true parsley, is very much like the plain-leaved, cultivated variety ; consequently, dangerous mistakes sometimes take place. When partaken of, this spurious parsley causes sickness, numbness, and insensibility, and has proved fatal in some cases. According to Dr. Christison, the best applications in case of accident are milk, mustard poultices on the legs, and cold sponging with vinegar. It may easily be distinguished from parsley by the unpleasant smell of the leaves when bruised, by their being of a much darker green and of a slightly different shape. The Fool's Parsley is sometimes met with in old gardens ; hence my drawing attention to its deadly nature and THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 75 sounding a warning note here. It is best not to grow any plain-leaved varieties, there being several beautifully-curled strains in cultivation. The best descriptions are : — 1. Triple-curled. — Where a large supply of parsley is in demand for culinary and garnishing purposes, this variety should be grown. It attains a good size, and is exceedingly handsome and very much curled. 2. Pern-leaved is a dwarf, compact-growing, and highly ornamental variety. Fi(l. 22. TEIPLE-CUKLED PAESLEY. 3. Dwarf Perfection. — This is of a bright green colour, compact habit, beautifully curled, and very ornamental for garnishing purposes. SoiL — Parsley will succeed well in any kind of moderately rich soil betweep light and heavy in texture, the site being well exposed to the south, west, or east for the summer crop. Parsley makes a very effective edging for kitchen-garden walks, that is, growing alongside the permanent edging of box, flints, or tiles, and in such positions, as well as in rows' 1 ft. asunder, in borders from 8 to 12 ft. wide, in front of walls or fences, with the proper exposure. Parsley is generally grown in private gardens, but, in addition to these positions, market gardeners grow large widths of this mucb- sought-after herb in the open field. Preparation of the Ground. — As a matter of course, the ground in- tended to be cropped with parsley should be manured and dug, the soil trodden when dry enough not to stick to the feet, raked level, and dressed with fresh soot before drawing the drills. These should, as already stated, be 1 ft. apart and about 1 in. deep, either for the reception of the seed or the transplantation of the seedling plant's. The latter is the preferable method of procedure. If the ground is 76 MY GARDENER : naturally stiff it should be manured, dressed with leaf -mould, chalk, burnt earth, or any other light vegetable substance that may be at hand, and be ridged up in the autumn, levelling it down, when dry, a few days before sowing or transplanting in spring. Sowing the Seeds and Transplanting the Young Plants. — Two or three sowings in the year will be ample ; the first should be made towards the end of February or early in ' March in a warm corner out of doors, the second in May, and the third in the middle of July. Where there is the convenience of a stove, hot-water pit, or the old- fashioned hot-bed at command, the first sowing should be made in a shallow box, having a potsherd or piece of tile placed over the few holes made in the bottom for drainage, followed by a layer of half-rotten leaves or short dung and a couple of inches of fine rich soil. The seed should be sown somewhat thickly and be covered lightly, making the soil moderately firm before tind after the seed is sown with a piece of board or slate. Water through a fine-rosed can, placing the box in heat. Where this accommodation does not exist, select a warm situation out of doors, say, under a south or west wall or fence, excavate 9 or 12 in. deep and about 18 or 20 in. square, and fill it iip with horse-droppings, or a mixture of hot dung and leaves if the droppings are not at command, covering this with 4 in. deep of fine, light, rich soil. And in this sow the seed in the manner advised above and cover it with a piece or two of glass,, protecting this from frost with an old mat, fern, or litter. As soon as the plants come up a little fresh air should be admitted to them to ensure a sturdy growth. When a couple of inches high they should be transplanted, as previously recommended either into single rows on either side of the walks or in a border in rows 12 in. asunder and 6 or 7 in. from plant to plant in the rows. The soil must be made firm about the roots in planting, afterwards giving water at the roots to settle the soil. By sowing a small patch of ground with seed and subsequently trans- planting tbe seedlings, ground space is greatly economised, as the piece of ground intended to be cropped with parsley may not be ready for six or nine weeks after the time the seed should be sown. It will now be readily seen that the system recommended has special advan- tages over the older method. Moreover, parsley transplants excellently if the operation is performed in showery weather and care is taken that the roots are not bent in the process of transplanting. The last planting or sowing should be made in a warm and sheltered spot, where the plants can be easily protected from frost by an impro- vised frame and shutters, fern, long litter, or any kind of proteotino- material that may be at hand. THE CULTURE OP VEGETABLES. 11 After Treatment. — In the event of there being a long spell of hot, dry weather, the plants — especially if they are growing in rather a light, well-drained soil — should be frequently watered at the roots, otherwise they make a very meagre growth, which will become a prey to the attacks of insects and mildew. The plants should also be kept free from weeds, and have the soil between the rows stirred frequently during the summer and early autumn months with the Dutch hoe, and old or damaged leaves should be removed as soon as they appear, to make room for the development of fresh ones, which will spring up soon after the old or coarse leaves have been cut over. To Save Seed. — -The necessary number of plants having the most perfectly-curled leaves should be selected and transplanted into a warm open bed by themselves and watered. When the seed ripens, towards the end of July, it should be collected and spread out on a piece of cloth for a few days to dry ; afterwards rub it out, clean, and put away in bags for future use. The seed retains its vegetative powers for two or three years. Sufficient plants for a row 100 ft. long may be raised from one ounce of seed. Insect Attacks. — Grubs of various kinds, the Onion Maggot being the most destructive, frequently do great mischief by eating the tap and other roots of parsley. The attacks, as previously intimated, may be effectually averted by strewing fresh soot over the ground just before sowing the seed or transplanting the seedlings, and scratching it into the ground with the rake. Mildew is caused by either excessive heat and dryness, or by an excessively cold and moist atmosphere during the summer months. The leaves most affected should be picked off and the others dusted while damp with flour of sulphur. PARSNIP. {Pastinaca sativa.) This hardy perennial is a native of England. The roots, for which it is grown, are eaten with meat, fish, and in soups. A fairly good wine may also be made from them. They are very nourishing. The varieties generally cultivated are : — 1. Hollow Crown. — This produces roots about 18 in. long and 5 in. in diameter at the thickest part, and is of excellent quality. 2. The Student grows to an immense size in deep, rich soil, and with generous treatment. 3. Maltese is another excellent variety. Soil. — A deep, rich, open, sandy loam, away from the shade of trees and enriched by manure, is capable, in connection with skilful cultivation, of producing parsnips of the finest desciiption and best quality. 78 MY GARDENER : Preparation of the GrotUld. — The ground, in a general way, should be manured and ridged up or trenched in the autumn, as soon as the summer crops are cleared off, levelling it down when dry about the end of February or early in March, according as the district is warm or cold and the condition of the weather, treading it ovei; and giving it a good surface-dressing of fresh soot before drawing the drills. If this operation is deferred till spring, which is frequently the case through force of circumstances, only very short and thoroughly decomposed manure should be incorporated with the soil in the process of digging. Sowing the Seed. — From the end of February to the middle of March, or as soon after those dates as the condition of the soil permits, sow the seed' very thinly in drills between 1 and 2 in. deep and from 15 to 18 in. asunder, closing the soil in over the seed with the feet, treading it again and raking level in the usual way. A second sowing may be made about the middle of May for use in the following spring. After Treatment. — This consists in thinning out the young plants when a couple of inches high, first to about 4^ in. from plant to plant, drawing every other plant when they have made 4 or 5 in. growth. And, if extra large roots are desired, the plants should be thinned out to 12 in. in a few of the rows. They should be kept free from weeds,' and the soil between the rows should be stirred to the depth of I or 2 in. vs^ith the Dutch hoe a few times during the summer. Taking up and Storing the Hoots. — Early in November, when the tops or leaves have died down, all or only a portion of the roots may be taken up and laid in perpendicularly about 1 in. underneath the soil in a dry border, in the manner recommended for beet-root and carrots. If the ground is not required for preparation for other crops, the roots may remain where growing till the eod of January, or even later. In the event of frost setting in, a sufficient breadth of roots should be covered with fern or loug dung to enable a supply beiog taken up when necessary. To Save Seed. — As in every other case of seed saving, none but the best specimens should be selected for this purpose. These should be replanted early in February, giving them a distance of 2 ft. between the plants in the row and a sheltered situation. They will flower in July and ripen seed towards the end of August. Seed more than one Fig. 23. HOLLOW CROWN PARSNIP. TBE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES. 79 3'ear old is not to be depended upon. One-and-a-half ounces of seed will sow a drill 200 ft. long. Insect Attacks.: — The parsaip is subject to the attacks of the maggots of the Carrot Fly (Psila rosce) as well as those of Psila nigricornis, which prey upon the roots. Good surface-dressings of fresh soot put on the ground will free the soil of these depredators. The Celery Fly ( Tephritis onopordinis) lays its eggs in the leaves, and the caterpillars live upon them, producing large blisters. The only safe and effective remedy is to pinch off all leaves so affected and burn them. The caterpillars of Depressaria applana, D. cicutella^ D. daucella, and D. depressella ravage the flowers and seeds. A dusting over of the flowers while damp, and before they open, with a mixture of lime and soot will prove an effective remedy. PEAS. {Pisum sativum.) The pea is said to be a native of the Levant. Whether in a green or ripe state it is highly nutritious. The number of varieties in cultivation does not fall short of a hundred, but those enumerated below may be considered the " cream " of the different sections. FiKST Eaelies. 1. A 1. — This is a valuable acquisition to the list of early peas. It is a wrinkled pea, possessing the marrowfat flavour, and is as early as Ringleader. The haulm attains a height of from 3 to 4 ft., is thickly covered with fine pods, containing from five to nine large peas of excellent flavour each. 2. Lightning. — TJiis is another grand early pea of recent introduction. It is of dwarf habit, the haulm being robust, about 2^ ft. high, and closely studded with handsome, well-filled pods containing from eight to nine peas of first-rate quality each. 3. Bii^Ieader. — This weli-known variety comes in about the same time as the preceding variety. Its average height is 3 ft. ; it is a prodigious cropper. The pods, although not so large as those of WiHiam I., are well filled and of fine quality. 4. Oxonian, — This fine early wrinkled marrow pea was sent out in 1888. It is exceedingly productive, the stout branching haulms, 4 ft. high, being well furnished with well-filled pods. 5. American Wonder grows to a height of from 10 to 12 in., and on that account it is well adapted for growing in shallow pits and underneath glass. It is of compact habit, good cropper, and fine 80 MY GARDENER : flavour. Chelsea Gem, of like habit of growth, is also suitable for growing ia a pit, in rows about 18 in asunder, for yielding gatherings of green peis m Apiil Fig 24.— A 1 PEA. Other good varieties are William I., Early Blue, Early Sunrise, and Early Paragon. Second Eaelies. 6. Wordsley Wonder is a blue wrinkled marrow, growing in ordinary soils to a height of from 2\ to 3 ft., of strong and free-growing habit, and is a prodigious cropper, producing in pairs medium-sized slightly- THE CULTUBB OF VEGETABLES. 81 curved poda, containing from nine to twelve large peas of excellent quality each. 7. Supreme. — The haulms of this excellent variety grow to a height of 6 ft. in good soil, and are heavily cropped with handsomely-curved, dark-green, well-filled pods, the peas being large and of fine quality. 8. Stratagem is a dwarf wrinkled marrow variety, of sturdy, compact habit, a very heavy cropper, pro- ducing long, , handsome, dark-green pods, remark- ably well filled with large peas of excellent quality. Height of haulm, 2 ft. 9. Telephone. — Haulm 6 ft. in height, and heav 1 cropped with very hai 1 some, pale-green, long po I containing, on an averaj nine large wrinkled p< each, of fine flavour wli cooked. 10. — Perfection. Height 3 ft. This is a ve heavy cropper, the lai wrinkled marrow peas bei of excellent flavour. Other good varieties i Chancellor, Pride of Ihe Market, the latter of il same description as Strata- gem, only the pods are handsomely curved instead of being straight. Tele- graph is a fine round blue pea, and in other respects, with the exception of the pods being of a dark -green colour, it is identical with Telephone. --v rt '"i^j woedsley woxdee pea. Main Ckop. 11. Boyal Jubilee is a grand and very profitable pea, and is suited alike for the poor man's and the rich man's garden, and as an exhibition 82 MY GAMDENER : f ^ pea it has few equals. It is a vigorous grower, the haulms between 3 and 4 ft. high, being heavily laden with large, handsome, sword- shaped pods, each containing from nine to 'J^"' ^, twelve large and deliciously-flavoured peas. 12. Elephant. — This is a very prolific main- crop pea. It is a good- grower, producing handsome, well-filled, dark-green pods, con- taining nine to ten peas of high quality. 13. DiikeofFife is a grand new pea from 5 to 6 ft. high, producing handsome pods nearly 6 in. long, containing from nine to twelve large light-coloured and deliciously- flavoured peas each. 14. Eoyal Standard, is the result of a cross between those two standard varieties, Ne Plus Ultra and Telephone. It is a blue wrinkled llll marrow, of strong constitution, attaining a height of 5 to 6 ft., and is a great bearer ; the pods are very large, broad, straight, and closely filled with from seven to nine extra large peas of fine flavour. Telephone, Telegraph, Main Crop, Strata gem, Pride of the Market, Main Crop Marrow, Champion of England, Huntingdonian, Dr. McLean, Invincible, and Chancellor are quite as good for main crop as they are for second crop. Late Crop. 15. Prodigy. — This very excellent late pea was raised by hybridising Giant Marrow with pollen from Stratagem, and embodying all the good qualities of its parents. It attains a height of 5 ft., is enormously productive, bearing generally in pairs an abundance of extra long, handsome, broad pods, which are nearly straight, each containing aine to eleven very large peas of excellent quality and fine flavour. 16. Selected Ne Plus Ultra is one of the EOYAL JUBILEE PEA. ^^gg^. ]g^,.g ^g^g -^^ Cultivation. This combines all the merits of the old Ne Plus Ultra, but is rather more