ITERS FROjvi' I QlorncU HmttBtattg ffitbtarg Strata, £^em ^atk CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WlLLtAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918 Cornell University Library DS 709.S97 Letters from China & Japan / 3 1924 023 226 438 All books are subject to recall after two weeks Olin/Kroch Library DATE DUE APW** Am697 PRINTED IN U.S.A. WcLsm J5S7df LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN. EASTERN TRAVEL. The Mishmee Hills: An Account of a Journey made in an Attempt to Penetrate Thibet from Assam, to open New Routes for Commerce. By T. T. Cooper. Second Edition. With Four Illustrations and Map. Demy 8vo. los. 6d. A journey through the empire of China from east to west, traversing the almost impassable snowy ranges of Eastern Thibet, and running the gauntlet among the ' nomad Mongol banditti infesting the v^leys of this wild frontier region, to the town of Bathang, 200 miles from the frontiers of northern Assam. "The volume, which will be of great use in India and among Indian merchants here, contains a g9od deal of matter that will interest ordinary readers. It is especially rich in sporting incidents." — Statidard. "This volume is a most interesting one, and will be read with pleasure by all classes of readers." — Civil Service Gazette. "This is really a charming book of travels." — Aihenaum. Second Ekitton. Western India before and during the Mutinies. Pictures drawn from life. By Major-General Sir George Le Grand Jacob, K.C.S.I., C.B. In I vol, Crown 8vo. Price 7s. 6d. , " The most important contribution to the history of Western India during the Mutmies which has yet^ in a popular form, been made public." — AthetuEu^n. "Few men more competent than himself to speak authoritatively concerning Indian affairs." — Standard. Eastern Experiences. By L. BowRiNG, C.S.I., Lord Canning's Private Secretary, and for many years Chief Commissioner of Mysore and Coorg. 'Illustrated with Maps and Diagrams. Demy 8vo. Price i6s. " An admirable and exhaustive geographical, political, and industrial survey." — AikencButn. ' ' Interesting even to the general reader, but especially so to those who may have special concern in that portion of our Indian Empire." — Post. "This compact and methodical summary of the most authentic informarion relating to countries whose welfare is intimately connected with our own." — Daily News. The Inner life of Syria, Palestine, and the Holy Land. By Mrs Richard Burton. With Photographic Portraits of Captain Burton and the Author, and with Coloured Illustrations and Map, demy 8vo. price 24s. This volume is intended to present a sketch of the vie inthne of the Holy Land in general, and of Damascus in particular, and to convey an idea of the life which an Englishwoman may make for herself in the East. HENRY S. KING &' Co., LONDON. ^^^ YROM CH/AT, ^ By L. D. S. Henry S. King & Co., London. 1875- PREFACE. It is with much diffidence that I venture to present the following pages to the Public. Had I seriously contemplated the possibility of being induced to write a book, while we were yet resi- dent in China, I should certainly have taken more care in collecting materials to make it an interesting one. It was, however, only on return- ing to this country that I fully realised how little is known by the world at large of daily life in the far East ; and the oft-repeated question^" Why don't you write a book ? " — ^resulted in the publi- cation of the Letters for whose appearance I am now apologising. They are simply those written to my relatives at home, divested of all personal matter not absolutely necessary for carrying on the nar- rative. The above explanation will account for the vi Preface. information given being of a somewhat frag- mentary nature, and I can assure my readers that they will only derive from it a very faint idea of the singular manners and customs of that ancient Empire in which for a time we made our home. Still more cursory is the glimpse given of Japan and its remarkably ^progressive inhabit- ants ; but I need hardly say more by way of " Prologue " to this small volume. I only hope the novelty of the subject may make amends, in some measure for the demerits of the writer. L. D. S. LETTERS FROM CHINA AND JAPAN. LETTER I. Hotel de Louvre, Marseilles, February ■z^tk, 187-. Here we are, safely across the channel, and feeling very much the better for having slept on a very downy couch, till nearly eleven o'clock this morning ! By the time we got to Folkestone, it became evident that we were likely to have rather a toss, and so we had — more of a side jumble than anything else, but quite enough to disturb the equilibrium of most of our fellow victims. I sat on deck most of the time, under a mountain of plaids to keep me warm, but when these failed to do so any longer, I descended to the ladies' cabin, which I found completely occupied by a crowd of wretched mortals, in ' every attitude of woe. I need not describe further the charms of the passage to Boulogne, they being only too pain- fully familiar to you. 2 l^etters from China. The only excitement during the journey to Paris, was the very common one of keys declining to appear when wanted. I dived into my travelling bag with perfect assurance of finding them there, but alas! they were not to be found. J. declared no Douanier would pass the formid- able-looking box, F. I. ! Fortunately he was wrong. In spite of its appearance, and the man evidently regarding it with suspicious eyes, my pathetic appeal in behalf of my dresses being left undis- turbed, went to his French heart in a way no Briton could understand, so he accepted my apologies for the missing keys, and passed every thing. LETTER II. p. AND O . Steamer, i-jth February. A Steward has just come to close my window, otherwise, he says, I should have the water in very soon, as it is blowing hard. It must, I think, be a head wind meantime, as the vessel seems to me very steady. I shall however, profit by the warning, and do my scribbling now, in case it should not continue so. We slept at the hotel, and came on board at Letters from China. 3 seven o'clock, which we found was quite un- necessary, as we did not sail till, 8.30. It was, however, a glorious morning, so J. and I enjoyed a last walk together up and down the deck, and did not regret our activity. The hour of parting came only too soon. Long I watched his figure fading "in the distance, and still longer, I waved a handkerchief from my cabin window in hopes of his seeing it, when my short-sighted eyes had ceased to discern hirn. ... Mr and Mrs E. are as kind as possible. The latter began to look, and feel, rather uncomfort- able, so retired below, and will probably remain there for the present. I also have taken refuge in my own domain, have arranged my worldly affairs, read the service, (having suddenly remembered that it was Sunday,) and now I can talk to you. In a cabin so small, the luxury of being " Monarch of all you survey" is great, and if 1 have the same good luck in the other steamers, it will seem as if all had combined to make my voyage a comfortable one. February 2Zth — Yesterday afternoon it became very dreary, and the vessel rolled a good deal, so no ladies emerged from their cabins. An excel- lent old stewardess took great care of me, and 4 Letters from China. brought me all I wanted, which was not much, for though not- ill, the many partings I had gone through, had brought on rather a serious attack of a malady commonly known as the " Bluest About fourteen hours of sleep, has resulted this morning, in a decided state of mental and bodily convalescence. During the night, I was conscious from time to time, that a great deal of rolling, and diving through the heaving billows was going on, but so mercifully am I constituted, the only effect, was to send me off to sleep more soundly than before. This morning being wet, the stewardess agreed with me, that getting up to breakfast would be useless, so I shall make my first appearance for the day at dinner. Poor Mrs E. is very ill, and hardly able to eat or speak. March ist. — Opened my eyes to find it a most lovely morning, which encouraged me to get up to breakfast. Every one looked quite brisk and more inclined to be sociable, for of course, we are all, as yet, generally enveloped in that mist of reserve peculiar to our nation, and engendered, no doubt, by our sombre climate. Yesterday I thought Mr E. found me a bore, so instinct pointed out the prudence of giving Letters from. China. 5 him as little of my society as possible. To-day, he seems to find me rather agreeable ! Such is the enlivening and happy effect of fine weather ! Let us hope it may continue ! With one exception, all the ladies on board are young, and newly married. I have been sitting on deck with Mrs L., a pretty little person, who with her husband, came by the same train to Marseilles that we did. She seems to have been much puzzled by my parting there from J., — what was our relationship, and what the object of my trip to the East ? "Were my father and mother in India ? " " No." " Had I been there before ? " " No." A solemn pause, while she considered how next to direct the attack, or perhaps waited for me to become communicative, so I at last grati- fied her by giving the desired information. " I was going to China to stay with a near relation," in which statement, I trust you admire the manner truth and ingenuity go hand in hand. March Tfd. — We rolled about so much all yesterday, no writing could be done, so I plunged into a novel, and remained there for the day. The night before last, Mrs E. came on deck. 6 Letters from China. when it. was tolerably calm, and the sky so clear, that we saw one of Jupiter's moons through my glasses — which a star-gazing fellow passenger says are the finest glasses of the kind he ever saw. We passed the Straits of Messina during the night, which was a pity, but owing to these head- winds we are behind our time. The captain expects to be at Alexandria on Saturday morning, so we shall spend the day there, and start per train to Suez at nine o'clock, thereby passing through Egypt in the dark and seeing nothing. They say it will be very cold crossing the desert, and that warm garments can, therefore, not be dispensed with till we get into the Red Sea. March A^th. — The usual rather violent rocking " on the cradle of the deep " going on, and a good many people still hors-de-combat. We shall rush on shore the instant when we reach Alexandria, to give the invalids as long time as possible to recover, before beginning the next phase of the journey. LETTER III. p. AND O. Steamer, March \6th. It is not expected that we shall arrive at Aden till Saturday ; but in case of being reduced to- Letters from^ China. 7 morrow to "■sitting in our bones" I shall write, while it is still moderately warm, the thermometer to-day being only 83" in the shade ! As yet, the heat does not trouble me at all : indeed, far from it. Such sunshine makes one quite happy, after the blustry cold week in the Mediterranean. The morning we landed at Alexandria was brilliant ; and all the Eastern costumes, the people and tongues of divers nations, combined to create a most novel and animated scene. We arrived at 8 a.m., and were immediately sent on shore, amid no end of jabbering and bustle, arising from people of all hues and deno- rainations. Happily a carriage was waiting for us, and conveyed us to our hotel. After resting for a short time, we started again and drove all through Alexandria, or rather, were jolted over the streets, which describes more accurately the species of exercise we took on the occasion. It had, however, a most beneficial effect on Mrs E., who revived as soon as she went on shore. Shops, markets, Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's needle — all were visited, and we enjoyed our day on' terra firma as much as if we had been at sea weeks instead of days. Letters from China. On returning to the Hotel, and enquiring for our friends who were coming via Southampton, we found they had arrived before us, so our party was then complete. ,We all dined at the Table-d'-hote, and about 6 P.M. re-commenced our journey. The transit across the desert lasted from that hour till seven next morning, by which you will perceive the pace was not dangerous ! Stations are numerous, and at each of them the train stopped about half an hour, that the passengers might drink bad coffee in dreary-looking refreshment rooms. Nothing could be more tiresome ; in spite of which, Mr E. and I managed to extract a good deal of amusement out of the Egyptian mode of transit, and the excitement caused by one of the carriages taking fire, an event, we were told, of very common occurrence. On Sunday morning we were afloat again, and since then, have been divesting ourselves gradu- ally of warm apparel out of respect to the ther- mometer at 83*^. The days are all as like one another as possi- ble. Breakfast at 8.30, then work or read on deck. Lunch at 12. Deck again. Dinner at 4. Again sit on deck till the sun goes down, which it does about six o'clock, when it very soon Letters from China. g becomes dark, and active people walk up and down for the good of their health. Tea takes ' place at seven, and after that Mr and Mrs E., Mrs S. and I, generally play at whist, then to bed between nine and ten. The necessity for being up early to secure a bath, prevents one sleeping quite so long as would be desirable in the circumstances. Still, I gener- ally manage to secure eight or nine hours, which enables me to get through the monotony of the day without over-fatigue. Since embarking at Suez, the sea has been perfectly calm, and we go along so steadily, no one is ill. Nothing can be kinder than my escort, and I have been so cordially adopted by all their party, any feeling of loneliness is rapidly vanishing. I have not had the same good fortune regard- ing my cabin on board this steamer, as attended me in the one from Marseilles, having a com- panion who is too delicate to stand an open window, so I have bid farewell to comfort for the present. lo Letters from China. LETTER IV. p. AND O. Steamer, Match loth. The voyage begins to be very tiresome, but two days hence, the longest part of it, being that between Aden and Point-de-Galle, is expected to come to an end. At Aden most of the passengers went on shore, and I was to have accompanied the' E.'s, had such a torrent of rain not come on, that Mrs S. and I decided to remain on board, which we after- wards regretted, as it was a lovely afternoon and quite cool. We were, however, much amused in watching the natives chattering and diving round the steamer. Numbers of those curious copper-coloured creatures, who hardly resemble anything human, with their hair dyed bright red and standing straight on end, came paddling along in their (own) canoes, as soon as we arrived, calling out " I dive, I dive ; " " Give, give." Many sixpences and threepenny pieces were thrown to them by the passengers, and then down they all went headlong into the water, and re- mained out of sight for an incredible length of time, the canoes meantime being left to take care of themselves, till their amphibious possessors re- Letters from China. 1 1 appeared, first holding up the money, and putting it into their mouths, which seem to make excel- lent purses. It is said that rain is rarely seen at Aden oftener than once in three years, so we were fortunate in being there when it was enlivened by the refresh- ing influence of a shower, which made it appear rather less arid than I expected. The heat is now much greater than we had it in the Red Sea. Still I have managed to catch cold, and find much difficulty in getting rid of it, living, as we do, in a constant current of air. Having two clergymen on board, we have regu- lar service, morning and evening on Sunday, and morning prayers daily. There is also a harmonium, and so many people have good voices, that the music might really be very tolerable, could a leader be decided on, and implicitly obeyed. Such a happy state of affairs, however, is not easily found among amateurs any -where, and certainly not in a P. and O. Steamer, where each little clique thinks its own musical member the most talented. A clever Mrs K. has certainly shewn the most decided capacity for the office, but she is voted bumptious and too demonstrative in her attachment to her newly ac- quired husband; these are considered two excellent 12 Letters from China. reasons for not giving her due support, and criti- cising her unmercifully ! Once, and once only, I was persuaded to preside over the church music, and any thing more humbling than the result, can hardly be imagined. Even the kindest and most amiable of our chaplains, clasped his hands in des- pair, when hardly one of the congregation joined in " All people that on earth do dwell," and up- braided me afterwards, though more in sorrow than in anger. " Oh, Miss F. ! Miss F. ! I will never trust you again, why did you not sing the prayer-book version ? " — {Tate & Brady.) What could poor Miss F. say in blushing con- fusion at her terrible failure, but, that in her own northern land, hardly a cottager would have been found, who could not repeat the words of the Old Hundred by heart, and sing them with might and main, even if Heaven had denied him much melody in his voice. The excuse was politely received, but I felt, nevertheless, my reputation as " Precentor " was gone. During the last week, an effort has been made to while away the time by various amusements. One evening, there were readings from Pick- wick and Byron. On another occasion, these were diversified by music on the principle of a penny Letters from China. 13 reading, and a third evening, there were theatricals. The young men dressed as ladies were good, but the great success of all was Mr N. who, in the character of an old lady, has made himself ever memorable. 22 nd. Rather an uncomfortable rolling going on this morning, most of the ladies ill. Last night it was charming, and I quite enjoyed the little breeze when walking up and down with Mr S. It is not, however, favourable to writing, and the Punkah boys are working so energetically, that my paper is being blown about in a most aggravating manner. I think, on the whole. Punkahs are a bore, they make a draft, give one cold, and spoil one's temper by carrying off, paper, work, and all other light property. The prospect of reaching Ceylon this afternoon is most cheering. We shall spend all to-morrow on shore and intend to enjoy ourselves thoroughly. LETTER V. p. AND O. Steamer, ■z'&th March. When v/e arrived at Galle, we found the hotels full, owing to all the Mails, homeward and outward 14 Letters from China. bound, having come in at the same time. We had therefore much difficulty in procuring accommoda- tion. After driving about for some time, Mr and Mrs E. at last secured one rather miserable room, and a philanthropic old lady took compassion on me, and requested me to occupy a sofa in hers. But unwary travellers in the East, beware of syren- voiced old ladies, who blandly assure you that there are no mosquitoes when they discover you looking rather ruefully at your curtainless couch. Those malignant insects had doubtless listened to our conversation, and marked me down as a new comer on whom they might feast at leisure, for oh ! what a sad spectacle my face presented the following morning, and for several days thereafter. Beauty and comfort are both now restored, but never shall I believe an old lady again ! We were delighted with Ceylon, its beautiful vegetation, and quantities of fruit and flowers being most refreshing to the eyes kfter a fortnight at sea. We had a pleasant drive through woods ■consisting principally pf cocoa-nut trees, and on our return, amused ourselves bargaining with the hosts of good-looking Cingalese who besieged the Hotel offering tortoise shell, and all kinds of curiosities for sale at prices three times their value, and let- ting you have them ultimately, for a mere trifle. Letters from China. 15 Preciotis stones also are offered to tempt the novice, most of which are said to be imported from Birmingham, though on rare occasions, a really good stone may be picked up cheap. Had I been on my way home, I should have taken G. the model of a Katamarang. They are such curious looking boats, built very narrow, and with a singular con- trivance at one side to prevent their upsetting in the surf March 2)Oth. Yesterday we spent about six hours at Penang, and enjoyed a charming drive through a perfect jungle of exotics. It is a very pretty island, the hills wooded to the top with cocoa-nut trees, pines, &c. One of the handsomest trees we saw was the senna, a name which used to be disagreeably familiar to one's youthful ears. The ponies of Penang are the most wonderful little animals I ever saw ; they are not, I should think, above twelve hands high, and yet you see them drawing carriages containing four, or even five people, and going along at a great pace with- out much apparent effort. The carriages are no doubt built very lightly, and are like very small char-a-bancs with a light pole at the four corners supporting an awning to protect their occupants from the sun. t6 Letters from China. March Z'^st. — We reached Singapore this morning. The views coming through the straits were most lovely. Of course we went on shore at once, have had our usual drive, enjoyed the shower which daily refreshes Singapore and its inhabitants, and expect to sail again to-morrow morning. LETTERVI. p. AND O. Steamer, 6th, Apt il. The wind was against us for some days after leaving Singapore, and the sea rather rough, which made our progress very slow. It seemed very dull too for some days after parting with my kind friends Mr and Mrs E., especially as, the other ladies being ill, I was the only one able to appear at meals. Being sole representative of my sex became really too appalling, so I fairly mutinied, and per- suaded the authorities that I was much too ill to dine down stairs, and must have dinner on deck with the other ladies. Unluckily, the wind blowing our food in every direction but the right one, caused so much laughter, the hilarious sounds penetrated below stairs and cast grave Letters from China. 17 doubts on the minds of said authorities as to the invalidism of some of the party. We therefore had reason to be grateful to the winds and the waves when they kindly abated next day and allowed us all to appear down stairs. It is said that we shall be in Hong-Kong to- morrow, which I hope we may, and in time for the English mails. LETTER VII. POK-FOO-LUM, I2th April. Since the conclusion of my last letter the first phase of my life has also been concluded, and phase the second commenced. I must return, however to our arrival at Hong- Kong which took place on Friday morning about elfeven o'clock. Imagine a large waggon of coals being tilted up, and the simile, though a homely one, will bring to your " mind's ear" as nearly as I can describe it, the noise caused by the going down of the anchor. Imagine still farther what a joyful sound this was to me on the bright, sunny morning that saw me at my destination, safe and well, after so long a voyage.. 1 8 Letters from China. From the moment we stopped all was bustle and confusion : every one too busy looking after their own affairs to mind any longer those of their neighbour. ~ Almost immediately Mr WJ (to whose care I was consigned) and H. made their appearance. A few hurried partings, an equally hurried meeting, and I found myself in Mr W.'s boat on our way to his beautiful abode, which is some little distance from the town. From the landing-place to the house I was carried, on account of the heat, in a chair — a con- veyance which, I suppose, is mdch the same as an Indian Palanquin. Mr W. received me most cordially, and on go- ing to my room, my eyes were greeted by seeing on the table a long letter from Mrs B., and a par- cel containing a lovely present sent to me from Japan. In the afternoon H. went again on board the steamer to look after my goods and chattels, and very soon I had the pleasure of seeing the two large boxes called respectively " Hong-Kong" and " Foo-chow" with their attendant and smaller satel- lites ranged safely round the walls of my charm- ingly spacious apartment. Rather to my surprise, I found that Canon B. Letters from China. 19 and H. had decided that Palm Sunday was the only suitable time for us to be married iii this, the season of Lent, and had begged Mr W. to de- precate all opposition on my part to the arrange- ment. Though certainly a novel idea to my Pres- byterian mind, I came to the conclusion that it was one highly deserving of a gracious approval, and thus, I fear many kind friends have been com- pletely frustrated in their attempts to drink our health on the right day, and still more at the right hour, for, at 8 a.m. on Sunday, the first day of this present week Miss F. became Mrs , and " H. and I " were merged in we. I must now introduce to you a very important personage of whom you will doubtless see frequent mention in my. letters, and who accompanied us on our drive to this pretty Bungalow — viz., " Scuttle" H.'s black terrier and for many years his constant companion. She occupied the front seat of the carri- age, and from the sagacious expression of her face, and the many sidelong glances cast at me, I cannot doubt she was meditating deeply on the vicissi- tudes to which dogs are heir, and wondering what terms she and her future mistress were to be on. H.'s servant, called by the generic name of " Boy," had preceded us here with a procession of coolies carrying our boxes and all things necessary 20 Letters from China. for a week's residence, so we found breakfast pre- pared and the house quite ready for our reception. Said " Boy " is by no means a juvenile, the term being applied in the East to either a butler or per- sonal attendant quite irrespective of age, or of the confusion that must sometimes arise from every one's servant being called the same name. They are evidently a most intelligent race, but how I am ever to understand what they say, or* make myself understood by them, seems at present a difficulty. I am sorry to say, I have already more than once been reproved for laughing visibly at the extraordinary gibberish called " pidgin English " which H. makes use of in giving orders to our domestic. The individual's dress , is really very neat and clean-looking — A loose white jacket, wide sleeves with blue turned back cuffs^blue kind of knickerbockers with white leggings drawn over them to the knee, and very thick though light soled shoes. This, or entirely white, is the usual dress of a Chinese servant in summer, who also must devote a good deal of time and attention to his head which is always nicely shaved, and his cue beautifully plaited. I believe in full dress and in winter, they wear a garment down to their feet much resembling that which Noah is represented to have worn in the ark ! I must now go back in Letters from China. 21, my narrative and tell you how perfectly charmed I was with the beauty of Hong-Kong. My impression had always been that fever and general unhealthiness was its principal character- istic, and such unfortunately was, to a certain ex- tent, the case, at one time ; but now the climate is greatly improved, owing, it is said, partly to the advice of Mr Fortune, the eminent botanist, who gave it as his opinion that if numerous trees were planted, they would draw off the noxious gases, from the soil, which had for years proved so disastrous in their effects on the English regiments. The town, of course, is also thereby greatly beautified, as well as by the handsome public and private buildings, — all of white stone, and many of which, I suppose, from their appearance, cannot have existed very long. Then the Harbour crowded with gaily painted junks, and ships of every flag and nationality, is like an immense inland lake, so completely is it to all appearance land-locked and surrounded by hills~ rising in many places from the water's edge. The highest is Victoria Peak. You can hardly ima- gine a more beautiful or cheerful scene than that on which I looked down from my verandah at Mr W.'s house, and will therefore not be surprised 2 2 Letters from China. at my taking a very couleur-de-rose view of a few- years' residence in China. Our abode here has a pretty look-out over the sea. We are distant about four miles from Hong-. Kong, and there are several other Bungalows scattered about the neighbourhood, belonging to the different mercantile houses in the town, whose inhabitants find it a pleasant change in the hot season to come here and enjoy the' sea breezes. Hong-Kong, i^tk April. — Mrs W. sent her carriage for us on Saturday, driven as before, by a rather imposing-looking Indian with a huge turban. We found, to our regret, on returning to this hospitable mansion, that our host was still too unwell to appear, and though his kind little wife is a host in herself, I fear our presence must be rather inconvenient to her, when so anxious about her husband. Yesterday (Easter Sunday) we went to service in the Cathedral. In the afternoon we walked round the Happy Valley, which is evidently intended by nature for the purpose to which it is applied, viz., that of a race-course, the amphitheatre of hills forming for it a natural grand stand. Nestling under these hills, we saw the well laid- out and beautifully kept cemeteries belonging to Letters from, China. 23 the numerous religious sects to be found in this cosmopolitan colony. All the dogs of the establishment accompanied us in our walk — a goodly array, for in the East most of the members of the great mercantile houses live together, so they, with their respective pets form a large household. April iStA. — To-day we have been driving about visiting the " curio " shops and others of a more practical nature, as I hear there are none, near my future home. In the afternoon Canon B. and others called. We must alas ! give up the pleasure of visiting Canton at present, as Mr R. kindly invited us to do ; but the inexorable steamer sails to-morrow, andjH. is obliged to return to Foo Chow before the beginning of another week. LETTER VIII. Imperial Arsenal, Foo Chow, April zi, 1 87-. , " The letters muSt be posted in half-an-hour,"' is the message just received, so I have merely time for a few lines to tell you of our safe arrival yesterday, after a very pleasant three-days' voyage from Hong-Kong. 24 Letters from China. We sailed at three o'clock on Tuesday, and reached Swatow about noon the following day — a most utterly uninteresting-looking place, and the heat so great, there was no inducement to land. After spending some hours there, we sailed again, and found ourselves early next day at Amoy, which is extremely pretty. We lunched with some pleasant naval friends of H.'s, and in the afternoon took a walk, which we sub- sequently voted to have been much longer than was quite agreeable under such a blazing sun. The sail up the river to this place is quite lovely, one could hardly believe oneself in China, being reminded alternately of Switzerland, Scot- land, and the Rhine — of the latter, because in many places the hills are, in like manner, terraced and cultivated to the very top. The Arsenal is not on the sea as I had thought it was, but above twenty miles lip the river " Min," and the town is twelve miles higher up. Large vessels cannot go as far as Foo Chow; so lay at the Pagoda Anchorage, so-called from a Pagoda which is built on a small island, off which we anchored yegterday, and where we were met by a boat from the Arsenal. As we passed the dock we saw the welcoming flag was hoisted, which I am told Captain S. Letters from China. 25 reserves specially for Nouveaux Marids, and at the ' landing-place we found chairs kindly provided for us by Mon. G., our own not having yet arrived. We were borne along at a swinging pace, and amidst much chattering and hilarity among the coolies, to our own door, where, no sooner had we alighted, than we were received by a perfect volley of crackers from the assembled multitude, which was followed by many others for nearly an hour. Guns don't seem to be used by the celestials on festive occasions, but they certainly have brought their crackers to great perfection, as nothing could have been more satisfactorily deaf- ening, than the noise they made. At the entrance there was an archway in ever- greens, surmounted by the usual, but ever-pleasant word — ^" Welcome ; " and the staircase and pas- sage up to our rooms was beautifully decorated with evergreens, flags, and flowers. Such a cheerful reception to this far-distant home was most enlivening as well as gratifying, shewing, as it does, the kindly feeling that exists towards H. not only among his European neigh- bours, but also in his Chinese pupils, who materi- ally aided and abetted in these unlooked-for rejoicings. I am told that had I been a Chinese 26 Letters from China. bride, I should have had a gaily-decorated scarlet chair, and had gongs (not trumpets !) sounded, before me ! LETTER IX. Imperial Arsenal, Foo-Chow, i<)th April. One annoyance I have discovered in this new home is, that there is no regular mail in com- munication with the P. and O. I shall therefore send a letter by every opportunity to Hong- Kong ; so, if some of them appear to be longer en route than others, the above is the explanation of their being so. There is soon, however, to be a French mail twice-a-month from Hong-Kong and the same from England, which, with the mails now existing, will enable us to have weekly communication. You can believe how delighted I was, when a neighbour came in yesterday to call my attention to the red flag which floated from the top of the Dock, denoting thereby that the steamer bearing my first letters from home was in sight, and that I should have them in a few hours. Nor was I disappointed. Ere long they appeared ; and how eagerly their contents were devoured, I leave you to imagine. Letters from China. 27 You wish to hear about so many things, I hardly know where to begin, but will do so by describing the situation and general appearance of our house. The latter is easily done, it being a very practical-looking square mansion, which seems to be the usual style of architecture in this part of the world. It stands within a gateway guarded on each side by mythological monsters, and in the centre of a small garden surrounded by magnificently tall bamboos. The part allotted to us by the Arsenal autho- rities consists of a good-sized dining-room down- stairs, and upstairs the drawing-room, which, with its verandah, is a pretty cheerful-looking room. These, and a large bed-room and dressing-room, form our " Chateau en Chine : " by which you will see that our domain is not a very extensive one, nor does it allow us much scope for hospi- tality. It, as well as several other houses, and all the immense workshops belonging to the Arsenal, is built on a flat piece of ground, reclaimed from a marshy paddy-field. Higher up, on the side of the hill which rises immediately behind us, are the houses of the French Directors, from which there is a charming view of the river and harbour. Higher still, is a 28 Letters from China. Buddhist temple, or called more commonly " Joss House," erected as a refuge for the spirits of the dead, which were supposed to have been offended by their bodies being removed when the ground was being prepared for the Arsenal. A' propos of this, a curious story has just been told me. It happened at that time, that one of the Chinese soldiers fell into an extraordinary kind of state, foaming at the mouth, howling, drinking buckets of water, and going on with all kinds of absurdities. Ultimately he demanded to be taken to the Yamlan, which he insisted on enter- ing by the great gateway, not being contented to do so by the ordinary small one. When there, he informed the Imperial Commissioner that he had had a dream, in which it was revealed to him that the spirits of those whose bodies had been thus disturbed were most indignant, and would continue fluttering over the Arsenal until there had been a feast lasting four days. Accordingly the Yamtan was used as a " Joss House" for the occasion, no temple having as yet been built ; and for four days " chow-chow " and all kinds of offerings were collected together, after which, it was supposed, the wrath of the angry spirits was appeased, and that they would be satisfied to Letters from China. 29 retire quietly to the temple which was in course of building. N.B. — By " chow chow " is meant in " Pidgin English," food of all kinds, and it takes a very important part in the religious ceremonies of the Chinese, who by no means consider that either their deities or deceased relatives are independent of material support. YamHn is the residence and offices of the head government official of the district. Having given you these explanations, I must go on to tell you of our visit to the temple alluded to, and of the polite reception we met with from the priests, who requested us to sit down and offered us tea,^ — made of course a la Chinois, by pouring boiling water on the leaves, covering it up for a few minutes, and then drink- ing it without milk or sugar. I do not think I shall ever become a convert to this mode of using the national beverage. The priests are most amiable-looking men, and evidently wished to make themselves agreeable, though our only mode of communication was by energetic " chin-chinning," in which, much to their amusement, the intelligent " Scuttle " did not fail to join by sitting up in front of them and persever- ingly wagging her forepaws. The process of " chin- 30 Letters from China. chinning" is accomplished by putting your two hands together and moving them up and down as if shaking hand with yourself. It answers the same purpose among the Chinese as our shaking hands, saying "thank you," and apparently of many other kindly expressions and felicitations. As yet all Chinamen seem to me to be exactly the same, but I suppose by and bye, I shall be able to distinguish a difference in their features. They are a most noisy race, so that when the work-people pass our house, which they do in hundreds, several times daily, I rush to the window to see what terrible catastrophe has happened. I begin to understand, however, that all these tumultuous sounds mean nothing to excite alarm. Though they quarrel and use any amount of strong language, the combat is entirely oral and never comes to blows, but ends, generally speaking, in the antagonists running off in different directions, turning round and shrieking ^tp each other as they go, their farewell words of abuse. Everything is done here by manual labour — no carts or horses to be seen, and as there are great works going on, the earth, stones — everything is carried in buckets hung by ropes from each end of a bamboo which is balanced across the Letters from China. 31 shoulders. Seeing multitudes of coolies laden in this way and following each other in strings up and down the steep, narrow pathways, reminds one in the distance of an ant hill, and the manner in which numbers of them are yoked together by connecting bamboos to convey any large or heavy burden, such as a log of wood or block of stone, is most extraordinary, in fact is literally a Chinese puzzle which would astonish our work-people at home. The women are certainly not pretty : those one sees working out of doors decidedly coarse- looking, and their costume in this part of China most unbecoming, consisting of a short black blouse confined at the waist by a belt, a small white apron and very, very short, wide trousers sometimes hardly reaching the knee, below which the leg is left entirely bare, and their feet thrust into straw slippers with no heels, which they only can keep on by shuffling along the ground in a most irritating manner. Their redeeming feature is their hair, which, as well as their eyes, is invariably black, and almost as invariably neatly dressed. How the dressing is accomplished in such hard, smooth rolls, and twisted up behind into such a curious form, resembling the handle of a tea-pot, I cannot tell. A long ornamental 32 Letters from China. pin is stuck through it, which protrudes a good many inches on each side of the hair ; and a bright flower, either real or artificial, worn at one side, gives them, in spite of their plain looks, rather a picturesque appearance. Their heads seem more impervious to heat and cold than those of the men, as they seldom wear any cover- ing except that bestowed on them by nature, and of which, by the bye, the men are defrauded ; so that the working classes have to supply the defi- ciency by wearing the large, slightly conical hat which you see in any pictures of Chinamen, and which answers equally well the purpose of sun- shade or umbrella. The dress of the better class of women is, I think, rather pretty and certainly most sensible ; for, as it does not fit to the figure, very little may be worn in summer, and a great deal in winter, without inconvenience. In their case, both the under garments and a petticoat descend to the ankle ; only the upper one of all is short, and the colour and material of the whole costume is varied according to taste and the season of the year. Their feet also are clad like ours in stockings, and they wear the usual very thick but light soled shoes. I speak of course, of those who allow their feet to remain in the natural form. Letters from China. 33 The small-footed women look as if their heels were bound tightly up so as to form part of the leg, and their toes only were left for use. The result is, they go at an uncomfortable pace, half walk, half run, and a descent on their nose would seem inevitable, but for the stick with which they help themselves along. A family of Christian Chinese who live near us have called on me ; and I was astonished to hear the perfect English they spoke, which was soon explained by my finding that Mr L. had been educated in America, and his daughters in England, and in fact that they hardly considered themselves Chinese, though they still wear the national dress, and conform to a certain extent to the national customs. The two daughters have very sweet voices, and have promised to help us in our endeavours to improve the music in our little church, which has hitherto been carried on by the combined talents of H. and his gunnery- instructor, who has a fine bass v&ice. The seamen's chapel was 'built, as its name denotes, specially for the benefit of sailors, of whom there are a great many here in summer, when the harbour is crowded with a perfect fleet of magnificent clippers, waiting to carry home their freight of tea. The service is performed by 34 Letters from China. the consular chaplain, who comes from Foo-Chow every Sunday afternoon for the purpose. A weary voyage it must often be, depending so much as- it does on the wind and the tide ; f6r there being no roads, the transit between this and the town must always ,be performed by water. Should thfe elements therefore be contrary, it sometimes takes four or five hours to accomplish it in a house-boat, and often has to be abandoned altogether. Under favourable circumstances the usual time is about two hours. When the larger boats cannot get on, the only yay to obviate the difficulty is to have recourse to a "sanpan," which, being small and light, can be sent along at a good pace by four strong men in spite of any ordinary wind or tide. The Sanpans on this river are about sixteen feet long, half covered in, and generally inhabited by the same family from generation to generation. H. says he has seen three generations, children, pdrents, and grandparents all living together in the same boat. How they are stowed away is marvel- lous ! There is, I am told, a population amounting to thousands who have never lived otherwise than in these boats, which they keep beautifully clean, indeed they seem to be much the cleanest portion of the. community. Letters from China. 35 My last remark was probably called forth by having passed through the native village a few days ago, which I found extremely trying to my olfactory nerves, and its dirtiness I shall not at- tempt to describe. On the same occasion we passed a box placed on the top of a pole, and containing exposed to view, as a terror to evil-doers, the head of a thief. The Chinese are very summary in their treatment of such criminals, as they consider death is the only certain cure for thievish propensities. Leaving you to meditate on how such a system would suit the ideas of our English humanitarians who wish to abolish capital punishment for even more heinous crimes, I must say adieu, as the mail closes this afternoon. LETTER X. 8/A May I begin already to feel quite domesticated, though all around me seemed at first, so new and strange. H. was obliged to resume his duties at once on our arrival. However, the school-yard is in a most convenient situation, being just behind the 36 Letters from China. house. I have, therefore, the full benefit of the bugling which goes on at all hours of the day, and also ample opportunity for observing the course of instruction bestowed on the young Chinamen both as to drill, and English games which seem to be highly appreciated. They have few games of their own. The only one I "have observed them playing is with a kind of shuttlecock which they toss from one to the other, hitting it in a marvel- lous way with their feet, so that great activity and suppleness are necessary for the performance. At 5 A.M. the first bugle sounds. This informs the pupils that they must get up, and the Precep- tor that he may sleep one half hour longer, which "little half hour" soon glides by, and then a second inexorable bugle tells the latter he has just time to precipitate himself into the nationally loose garments he wears in school at this early hour. At 6.30 a still more cruel bugle warns me I also must get up to have breakfast ready for the Domestic Mogul, who presently comes in to pre- pare for the same, and assume more Christian attire. You naturally imagine from the hours I mention that it is hot weather, and so do not give me due amount of credit for such activity, but I can assure you it is nothing of the kind, Letters from China. 37 and I feel sometimes much inclined to have a fire. We had one or two hot days, which made H. in a rash moment begin his summer hours ; but as a general 'rule, it is rather chilly — about the temperature of cool summer weather in England. I insist on retiring to rest betimes, as I found it did not suit me to conform to Chinese hours in the morning, and English ones at night, especially as for some time I was perpetually awakened by the various noises which go on during the watches of the night. First come one set of watchmen rattling bam- boos vigorously, and thereby giving due notice to any one who may be out on a thieving raid, that they had better hide themselves. Then there follows at stated periods, a greater magnate of the same species who goes his rounds to see that his minor brethren are awake, they being very apt to rattle their bamboos in their sleep, and he makes a still more excruciating noise by banging a gong as loudly as he can. I have now accom- plished sleeping through both the last named instruments, so do not despair of, in time, ignoring the bugles also ! At the top of the hill behind the house are the barracks where the Chinese soldiers with their guns, gongs, and trombones, begin at an early 38 Letters from China. hour in the morning to add their quota to the general noise. Within a few hundred yards there is also a battery fitted up to represent the deck of a man- of-war, where the cadets are twice-a-week in- structed in gunnery. On these mornings sleep is even more impossible than usual, one's dreams being rudely disturbed by the shaking of window frames, &c., Finally, — the worst of all, is the practising of buglers, and when, contrary to orders, several of them do so at the same time, the distraction to unfortunate ears reaches its climax. From the foregoing description you will under- stand that our life here is not a quiet one in every sense of the word. As to society it is certainly likely to be so, the community being a very small one. I have only, as yet, had one visitor of my own sex, but a good many of the other, principally Frenchmen, for, as the arsenal is under French direction, most of the officials belong to that nation. ' Two evenings ago we dined at the house of our agreeable Director, to meet some old friends of H.'s, who, however, live at the town of Foo-Chow, so I fear we shall not be able to see much of them. Letters from China. 39 Most of our French neighbours sing — one of them more especially is the happy possessor of a most charming tenor voice, so we had a great deal of music, and I foresee that with such a musical little coterie, we may look forward to hav- ing many such pleasant evenings. This is a very curious kind of place with no roads of any description, except rough pathways over the hills, so that few people ever think of walking, even men being carried in chairs, always excepting H. who scorns the conveyance as much as I do at present. Whether my views on the subject may change on the arrival of the hot season, we shall see by and by. I have greatly enjoyed the few scrambling walks we have had, but I fear We shall not accomplish many more, as H. does not appreciate them much after a hard day's work, and when the heat really comes on in earnest, I do not suppose I shall do so either. I am therefore making up my mind to ex- periencing somewhat the sensations of a bird in a cage, and being content to remain within the pre- cincts of our small garden for the next four months. The new European woman seems still to excite great curiosity in the Coolie mind, and the rails of 40 Letters from China. the garden are generally lined by a row of inquisi- tive faces trying to catch a glimpse of its in- mate?. A beautiful quick-growing Clematis, which it is our daily amusement to train, will soon however, close the view to them and to me, and then I shall be at liberty to devote my overplus energy to a little practical gardening, which will make up in some measure for the loss of my usual riding and walking exercise, Our garden cannot at , present boast of much variety in its productions, it being almost entirely occupied by mignonette and marigolds, the latter by no means an object pf my admiration, but I am evidently doomed to be haunted by them wherever I go ! The sole, implement of cultivation used by the gardener, is a large hoe, which, however, in the hands of a Chinaman, seems to be a wonderfully effective one ; but I do not think we shall be able to do much ourselves until the arrival of our English tools. LETTERXI. May ixst, 187-. We have had such a marvellously gay week, that it has not been possible to prepare letters for Letters from China. 41 the mail till to-day, which will cause some diffi- culty in having them ready in time. Those of my friends who regarded my depart- ure for Foo-chow as one to a different world, will be surprised to hear that gaiety can exist in what to them, seemed such an unknown region of the earth. Yet so it is ! and a few evenings ago, we found it quite possible to danc.e in the " unknown region " till somewhere about three in the morning. The ball did not take place here, but at the town, which is twelve miles farther up the river, and where we went to stay with H.'s friends, the Consul and his wife. There being a regatta here last Wednesday, and consequently a holiday at the Arsenal, we took advantage of it, that we might have two whole days for our visit, which we preferred to being present at the boat races. The Baron de M. kindly sent his house-boat for us, which is a species of vessel I have mentioned once or twice without describing, so I had better now enlighten your mind on the subject, it being an all-import- ant conveyance in this roadless land. House-boats are sailing vessels varying in size, but always sufficiently large to contain bed-room, sitting-room, and small kitchen, and cooking 42 Letters from China. apparatus, so that on a river expedition they literally combine house and boat in one, and as the sides are entirely occupied by windows, the scenery can be enjoyed without any exposure to the sun. Some of the larger ones are fitted up most comfortably with drawers, cupboards, pantry, and many other little inventions for convenience during a prolonged residence on board. At their mast-head they carry the designating flag of the house of business, or owner to whom they belong, which enables them in the distance to be easily recognized. On approaching the town the river presented a very gay scene, with its multitude of junks and boats, the former all provided with eyes painted on their bow that they may, according to the Chinese idea, see where to go ! How such clumsy, ponderous-looking vessels can ever come safely through the perils of the deep, seems very marvel- ous to my ignorant female mind. The native city is on the right side of the river, while on the left, are many of the foreign Hongs and residences, the two banks being connected by a very substantial stone bridge. Wind and tide having favoured us we accom- plished our voyage in good time for Tiffin, and found chairs had been sent to wait our arrival and Letters from China. 43 convey us to the Consulate, which is about a mile from the landing-place. The transit from the river to our destination confirmed my impression of China being a huge grave-yard, for most of the way we passed through myriads of tombs, and though the chair coolies are very clever in threading their way along the narrow pathways, an occasional bump on the obstructive grave-stones is almost inevitable. I am 'told the Chinese believe that their departed friends are better satisfied if they are buried in a dry situation and where there is a fine view. I think it also probable that being a thrifty nation, they find the high and dry situations are less desirable for cultivation, and therefore bestow them all the more willingly on the dead. We met with a most kind welcome to their charming house from our ho^t and hostess. The Consulate, like most of the other houses belonging to the European settlement, stands high, and from the lawn behind there is an extensive view of the native city and of the river and boats lying below. From the rising ground in front we had a view which gave me some idea of the beauty of the scenery on the river Min, and of its end- less hills and valleys, the latter occupied by paddy fields looking green and beautiful in the distance, 44 . Letters from China. which in their case " lends great enchantment," as they are by no means so charming on a nearer approach, being simply marshes intersected by such very narrow pathways, that a little practice on the tight-rope would be valuable for enabling one to walk in comfort, without a foot occasionally slipping into the mud. ' We spent the afternoon in an exciting game of croquet. In the evening some friends came to dinner and we had a little dancing to prepare us for the more serious exertions of the following night. The day of the ball there were numerous visitors, for where ladies are at such a premium, enthusiastic dancers find it necessary to make arrangements for securing partners before the evening arrives. There is also in a small com- munity a very natural curiosity to see the new arrivals, of whom there have been several lately besides myself. You will be amused when you hear that there were only twelve ladies at the ball, and that this was the greatest number that has ever yet been attained to at Foo-Chow. The proportion of men being about four to one, the way we twelve de- voted women exerted ourselves, was truly astonishing! Poor H. having so long lived the Letters from China. 45 life of a recluse, quite looked on himself as a victim in being obliged to go, but where there are" so few ladies, any one possessing a wife has to regard it as a necessary drawback to the situa- tion, that he should sacrifice himself for the good of the public on such festive occasions. We enjoyed our visit very much and were most kindly pressed to stay longer, the Baron de M. offering as an inducement to us to do so, that he would take us a beautiful expedition up the river, and assuring me that my husband had " beaucoup trap de conscience " in thinking it neces- sary to return so soon to his duties. The weather begins to get warm, though fortunately the night of the ball was charmingly cool, and the room thoroughly, ventilated by its large open verandah. LETTER XII. I AM at present in a widowed state, as H. went off yesterday morning with all his pupils for a two days' cruise and trial trip, on board a ship which is about the same size as that which is now being built for training purposes. When I first arrived, I should have been 46 Letters from China. horrified at the idea of being left alone in this al fresco style of abode ; but it is wonderful how rapidly one can conform one's self to circum- stances, so that I really have not felt alarmed, though I took care last night to arm myself with a good large bell with which to rouse the public should any thieves pay me a visit in my lonely condition. I must confess, however, to a very dreary sensation during the long evening, far you know we have no twilight, so that darkness almost immediately follows the setting of the sun ; and as our domestics live in the back yard, the stillness of the house could almost be felt, except for an occasional movement on the part of my semi-detached neighbour, and the buzzing of the mosquitos, — -which word does not quite express the low, menacing sound made by those cannibal insects. During the day there are numerous sounds to break on my solitude, both from without and within, as our drawing-room is above the English school where the pupils receive their preparatory education for the ship which is to be established ; and I can hear the voices from below very dis- tinctly, especially when there is any stupidity on the part of the instructed. The servants evidently think the best way of Letters from China. 47 consoling me for " Massa's " absence is by bring- ing me all the flowers they can find. One of them brought me such an immense bunch of gardenias this morning, I have been obliged to remove them to a distance, as their perfume was rather overwhelming. It was satisfactory to see that such beautiful flowers could exist, as I had begun to take what proves to be a prematurely desponding view of the flora of this part of China, having seen in the gardens round here only very poor specimens of our commonest English flowers. I have discovered, too, that some large bushes in our own garden are gar- denias, and that they will soon be covered with blossom. The foliage looks so different to that of the small delicate plants we have at home, I had quite failed to recognise it in such a robust form. My walks have not yet been entirely given up, though H. cannot often accompany me, his time between school and drill being very fully occupied from 5.30 A.M. till 6 p.m. I have, however, plucked up' more courage ia facing the crowds of work people through whom one has to pass before getting to the hill, and which at first seemed very formidable, they looked to me such a race of savages. I believe 48 Leiters from China. they are in reality quite harmless, though they make so much chattering about any passer-by, more especially when, to them, a lady on foot is such an unusual sight. Whatever their remarks may be I do not understand them; so, as "ignor- ance is bliss," &c., I am endeavouring to shake off what probably are foolish fears, and have several times lately gone off in search of ferns escorted by a Chinese servant only, who takes the greatest care of me, and puts out his hand in the most gallant manner to assist me up and down the steep ascents. The ferns are numerous and lovely. When I want a supply to arrange in flower glasses, all that is necessary is to send to the hill, and in a few minutes handfuls are collected of what we should consider at home very rare kinds. A species of banian seems to be the largest tree there is in this neighbourhood, and some I have seen have grown to a great size and are very picturesque. There are also a number of fruit-trees, such as the guava, lunyian, lychee, &c. We have had a good deal of rain, which, with the accompanying heat, creates a dampness in the atmosphere most destructive to musical in- struments, and various articles of dress. The latter require the utmost attention and constant Letters from China. 49 airing to prevent their being i:uined by mildew. Gloves become spotted if exposed to the air for even a day or two, so that the only way of pre- serving them is by keeping them in tightly corked bottles, and even that inconvenient process is not always successful. I observe that white and the colours most nearly approaching it are those least liable to destruction. Pianos go out of tune and become partially dumb in a way which is most baffling, it is so difficult to know what remedy to apply. I spend many spare moments in running over scales, and flatter myself have thereby in- spired the notes with a sufficient amount of energy to prevent their becoming absolutely speechless ! A few evenings ago we had two of our French neighbours at dinner, and sang till nearly midnight. On Saturday evening another small excitement arose, caused by our being informed at a late hour that Canon B., who was on a visit at Foo- chow, intended to have morning service at the Anchorage next day. Now, as we and our assistant choristers are accustomed to the evening service only, you will understand how embarrass- ing it was to receive such a sudden announce- ment. However, at an early hour on Sunday D 5° Letters from China. morning, H. summoned' his gunnery-instructor to the rescue,' with the aid of whose powerful voice, we always feel independent. The chants and re-, spouses were practised, the harmonium de- spatched to the church, and our part of the service was accomplished better than might have been expected. H. has invented a kind of cradle in which the harmonium can perform its weekly journeys in safety, and can be carried quite easily swung in the usual manner on a bamboo, by two coolies. The latter, we rather think, believe it to be our yoss (or Idol ! ) May 2,oth.- — It appears in consequence of H.'s absence for two days last week, a steamer went to Hong-Kong without my knowledge, and I have thereby missed the French mail. Your news of us is no doubt very recent, but I find we shall have some more commissions, so I wish to let you know of them before the depart- ure of my boxes, as we are told on all sides that it is better and cheaper to get almost everything direct from England, including even household stores. We do not think, however, that for so small a mdnage as ours, it would be worth the trouble of doing the latter. We wish very much that our supply of garden Letters from China. 51 tools should be accompanied by a book on garden- ing, which would give us some useful hints to assist our efforts in the practical part of it, as I am ashamed to discover, how limited my know- ledge on the subject is. You will be amused with the enthusiasm which has seized us ; but for one thing my often taking exercise without the gates of our^ own little domain, is compassed with difficulties, my amuse- ments therefore, during our residence here, must be, to a great extent self-contained. Besides which, we do not intend to indulge in the ex- travagance of a Cantonese gardener, and must instruct our good-natured little coolie so as to secure having more than one species of flower at a time, which seems to be his dominant idea. The Chinese are such a mechanical race that in- struction does not proceed very rapidly, unless you can "make them look see" how a thing is done ; but then, once an jdea is fairly taken in, it is permanently remembered, which is not always the case in minds of quicker intelligence. , We went this morning, in spite of the rain, to see the launch of H.'s training ship, which took place in the presence of the Imperial Commis- sioner, and was preceded by some most curious ceremonies. 52 Litters from China. First two pigs and two goats were offered to the goddess of the river, and numerous pieces of sacred paper were burnt on which were written prayers. They then adjourned to another smaller altar on which otHer sacrifices were offered to the Goddess of heaven, burning also more sacred paper ; but the latter Deity is not apparently con- sidered such an important one, at least as regards ships, for they only offered to her a pig's head and that of a goat. When going from one altar to the other, the Imperial Commissioner was sup- posed to imitate as nearly as possible the move- ments of a horse, bending his knees in a curious and most ungraceful manner. What the super- stition is which prescribes this mode of walking I do not know. These ceremonies over, the ship glided beauti- fully into the river, amidst a great uproar, shouting, shrieking, and firing of guns. The Imperial Commissioner is a very clever man, but has a most cruel expression, and his face does not belie him, if, as is affirmed, he chopped off a secretary's head for merely failing to address a letter to him correctly. Should your ideas of a mandarin's dress be formed, like mine, from that of an automaton conjuror which used to be my delight in the days Letters from China. 53 of my youth, you would be as disappointed as I was with the magnate we saw to-day, whose attire was" anything but gorgeous. It consisted of the usual long Noah's Ark garment, the colour blue, and the material — I feel sure must be that mysterious fabric called "shirting" which one sees so largely quoted in the newspapers as an important article of merchandise. I never realised before what it could be, but at this moment it flashes into my mind that this must be it. On his head, surmounting the garment of shirting, he wore a conical hat with red button, and tassel. There is much meaning in the colour of the button, as in it consists the whole dignity of the wearer, so that as long as he has a button, it matters not what else he wears — the colour of that small appendage announces at a glance to the initiated eye, his rank and position among mandarins. Our friend of to-day holds, I believe, a very high rank in the Empire. In the course of the afternoon, a goose, a capon, and two bottles of wine arrived from the Yamun, it being a Chinese custom to send presents on any great occasion such as the launch of a vessel, and also on some of their own festivals. 54 Letters from China. LETTER XIII. June 7, 1 87-. There has been a hohday for the last week, and most of the inhabitants are off on expeditions up the river, so , that an unusual silence has reigned over the Arsenal. The only sound to be heard for some days has been the distant beating of gongs proceeding from the numerous boats on the river, this being the Chinese Festival of Dragon boats. These boats are very long and narrow, are gaily painted to imitate the national idea of a dra- gon, and their high bow made to represent the open mouth of the animal. They hold from twenty to thirty people, most of them armed with stout short paddles, others with drums and gongs on which they keep up an inces- sant noise while they race up and down the river. The origin of this feast is said to be the death, some thousand years ago, of a Chinese patriot who having proposed some salutary measures, for the good of the public, his prince not only declined to follow his advice, but banished him from court, which he took so much to heart that he went and drowned himself. He being very popular, his country-men assembled and sought for his body, Letters from China. 55 which they are supposed still to do at each anniver- sary of his death. The Festival is also accompanied by various other superstitious observances, such as burning of sacred paper, placing food before their ancestral tablets, &c. We took advantage of H.'s leisure time to re- turn the calls of our few neighbours, and one day had a charming row through all the shipping to pay a visit at the other side of the Harbour, where, from Mrs M.'s house, we had a most beautiful view both up and down the river. I have now also taken on myself the charge of the house, having acquired a sufficient comprehen- sion of the absurd and infantine language called " Pidgen English " to understand, and make my- self understood. Housekeeping is altogether much simpler here than it is at home, nor are we troubled as is the case in India by being obliged "to have a large retinue of servants. The Chinese have no fancies ■ as to "caste" or of the same person not doing more than one thing, so that a very moderate establish- ment is sufficient. Our household consists of the " Boy," a cook, house coolie, and gardener. Chair coolies are also, generally speaking, necessary, but they are not so to us, as we both infinitely 56 Letters from China. prefer walking, when we can go out at all. On the rare occasions when we have gone in state, " Catchee chair coolies," to the " Boy " is an order which in five minutes has produced four athletic bearers from outside. I use the word " athletic " advisedly, as-they are a very strong, muscular race, and seem to me, to carry heavy weights of human- ity with astonishing facility. Some people make their cook their principal servant, but the Boy or butler is more usually put in that position, and he is entirely responsible for all the others, and for everything in the house, In en- gaging the coolies he what is called " secures '' them, and he in his turn is, or ought to be " se- cured " by some person of known meatns, though this rule, in the latter case, is not always acted on. If, however, anything in the house is lost or broken the value is deducted, when it can be so, from his wages, and he is left to deal with the coolies according to his will and pleasure, should they be the delinquents. The food department is easily managed, as the all responsible "Boy" gets everything from a Comprador, and it is his duty to see the latter does not cheat you. Whether he always fulfils that duty or £-oes shares in the amount to which you are cheated is probably a doubtful qiiestipn. Judging Letters from China, 57 by the result of monthly accounts, I should think ' our servant does not indulge in the latter pro- pensity to more than a very moderate extent, if he does it at all. When I mention food, your mind, I believe, instantly reverts to puppy dogs and bird's nests as our daily fare, and you will be much disap- pointed to find that we have seen neither of these but live on commonplace beef, mutton and poultry. My practical housekeeping friends will like to know what we pay for them, and will ask why their lot has not been cast in China when I mention that the former, which is excellent, is " only seven cents (s^d.) a lb., but let them not jump too rapidly to their conclusions, but wait till they have their domestic hair set on end by , the more than counterbalancing price of mutton, which cannot be had for less than thirty or thirty- two cents, having to be imported alive from Shanghai. Large establishments import their own ^sheep, and smaller ones sometimes join together . for the same purpose, by which they are supplied at a somewhat more reasonable rate, but in this rural district we are very much at the mercy of the Compradors who, in the hot season, do not kill sheep at all, unless they are sure of disposing of the whole animal immediately. Poultry is not 58 Letters from China. very dear, but decidedly lean and requires a great deal of feeding up before being ready for the table ; also, as it is sold by weight, care has to be taken that is not increased by artificial means, such as putting sand and pebbles among the feathers, and various devices of that kind, in which the celestials are great adepts. I have only once penetrated into the kitchen, as it, like the servant's dormitory, is in a separate building from the house, but I returned from my visit much impressed with the talent of the artists who can produce such respectable cookery from the little black holes, which answer the purpose of a kitchen range. Various improvements as to cleanliness and order were suggested, which I hope periodical inspections may tend to carry out ; but H. is not sanguine on the subject, and evidently thinks the less I allow my mind to dwell on the arrangement of Chinese kitchens, the better my appetite is likely to be ! ' We have nothing to do with the feeding of our servants, that being included in their wages, which are as follows, and I think, are very moderate. The Boy has ten dollars a-month, the cook eight, the coolies five, and the punkah coolie three — the latter is a very necessary addition to the establishment during the warm months. Rice Letters from China. 59 is the staple article of consumption, and as a pound of it can be had for a few cash, of which small coin there are twenty in a penny, there being about fifty pence in a dollar, one dollar goes a long way towards providing food for a Chinaman. A little fish and vegetables serves as a sauce to give piquancy to the rice, which they hold in a small bowl close to their chin, and shovel into the mouth with chop sticks. As you perceive, an eastern household is com- posed entirely of men, excepting the " Amah " or lady's attendant, who is not mentioned in the foregoing list, for the excellent reason that I have not yet found one. We had some difficulty in making the servants understand that they must knock at " Missisy's " door, and not walk into my room in their usual unceremonious fashion, but they at last seem to comprehend the propriety of doing so. One, of the most disagreeable customs the Chinese have, is the length to which they allow their nails to grow. In the case of one's own servants their eagles claws are, of course, at once ordered off, and H. finds it quite necessary to pursue the same system with his pupils by having, every now and then, a parade for the cutting of nails. I should like to carry our despotism a little 6o Letters from China. further and insist on the washerman doing the same thing, as every week my nerves are severely tried by seeing these terrible appendages when he counts over the clothes. You probably know that in the east the washing is done by men. I had forgotten that fact, and our washerman is so singularly like an old woman, I did not at first discover that she was a man ! The difference of dress does not strike one immediately, for the men when at work generally roll their cues, turban fashion, round their head, so that a casual observer may very naturally mistake the identity of the two sexes. I have just been reading in William's Middle Kingdom what was the origin of the said cue, for it appears the Chinese did not always wear their hair as they do now, but in 1627, were ordered by the conquering Manchus to adopt the coiffure of the latter as a sign of allegiance, and on penalty of death. Previous to that date they wore their hair long, and bound on the top of their heads like the Loo-Choo islanders ; but' since then, the fashion which w^s forced on them has become the national one. Letters from China. 6i LETTER XIV. \%th June 1 87-. I received your welcome letter two days ago ; and yesterday afternoon, when the thermometer descended to 90, and the sun went down, I paid Madame D. a visit to tell her the discovery that had been made of our having mutual friends. She instantly opened her album and showed me all their photographs ; and you cannot think how pleasant it was to us both to find, when in a distant land, this bond of common interest. We had only lately become acquainted, owing to my not being aware that it was in accordance with French manners and customs for newly married people to take the initiative in calling. The heat, which the rains coming later than usual delayed for a few weeks, has now fairly set in. Last Sunday, when we went to Church twice — in the morning to practise, and in the evening for service — -I really felt the steep, rough walk was rather too much in such a temperature, and think seriously of having recourse to the hitherto despised chair. Every one is clothed in white, and even that is reduced in quantity to a minimum. My installation as housekeeper has been 62 Letters from China. inaugurated by what at home would be called a "Spring cleaning." The constant washing of floors and splashing of water has rather a pleasant, cooling effect. A good deal of practical instruction is required by our male housemaids, which has the advantage of occupying the atten- tion, and preventing its dwelling too constantly on the gradual dissolution of one's bodily frame ! yune 2,0th. — Nothing very worthy of record has happened lately. We again dined with Monsieur G. He and some other friends dined with us ; and several times the musical fraternity have made their appearance to pay us an evening visit in the pleasant foreign, sans cdrSm,onie fashion. On one of these occasions a fat old mandarin whom we knew came in search of Monsieur le Directeur, who carried him off to his own house, but was much upbraided by the former for doing so, and for not inviting him to come in to hear what he called " that sing-song." Our piano is, alas ! proving rather a failure, in so far that it declines to screw up to above a tone and a half below concert pitch. We invoked the aid from Foo-Chow of the only person who can tune pianos, and as he broke a string in the attempt, I fear what he says must be right, and that there is something radically wrong. We Letters from China. , 63 have therefore resolved to part with it and use our invaluable harmonium, whose health nothing seems to effect, until my own piano or another can be sent from England. It is the common belief here that no instrument will stand the climate that is not made expressly for the pur- pose. My theory is, that what is a first-rate instrument at home will do best here also, but you must have some more practical opinion than mine before deciding. LETTER XV. July 22d, 1 87-. I must hasten to relieve your minds, which may not unnaturally be anxious about us after hearing of this horrible massacre at Tien-tsin. You know Tien-tsin is far away from this, in a totally different part pf the empire — which fact would, however, be of no consequence were the horrors committed there to be regarded as the beginning of a national effort to get rid of foreigners. Here, we have a great safeguard, and that 15 self-interest, as the Chinese have laid out millions of dollars in the establishment of this Arsenal, in which there are about seventy Euro- 64 Letters from China. peans (French and English) instructing them. All this outlay would go absolutely for nothing did any harm happen to us ; so, with a garrison of Chinese soldiers behind the house to protect us, we have no fear as to our safety. At the same time we are hoping to hear that the French intend to punish them soundly, and to insist on sending out a few hundred troops to garrison the Taku forts for some years — their expenses to be paid by the Chinese. Of course, if the celestials do not give in to the French terms, there will be a war, and in that case I do not know what would happen here. The Frenchmen would have to go, and we could hardly remain, when China is -at war with our dear friend France, however no one seems to think there is any chance of that, the general opinion being that the Chinese would pay any amount of money, of which they have plenty, rather than fight. Our arrangements, I am sorry to say, are likely to be changed, in the course of a few months, as it now seems probable, that H. may take his school to sea. So much time had elapsed with- out the Chinese carrying out the terms on which he undertook to be the head of their training department, it appeared as likely as not. Letters froin China. 65 that the drilling of their embryo sailors might continue, as it had begun, in an imaginary ship on shore, a very comfortable plan for us, in a domes- tic point of view, though not at all satisfactory in a professional one. I am, therefore, not allowed to regret the establishment of the ship ! The present plan is that he should sail about the beginning of October, after the Typhoon season is over, and cruise down to Hong-Kong, spending some weeks en route. I have a slight hope that if he remains there long, I may go by steamer and join him ; but nothing is yet fixed. Meantime we are making what H. calls my cage, and its outer court (viz., the house and garden) as pretty as we can, and the house is a very cheerful one, which is a point in my favour, during the long solitary days that are before me. I wish you could see the Anchora,ge as it is at present. On Sunday when we went to the top of the hill above the church, with our backs to all the ugly buildings and chimneys of the Arsenal, the view of the harbour with about seventy fine ships lying at anchor, and the beautiful broad river and hills beyond was magnificent. The hill you speak of in the views you have of China, must be " Kushan " which is a principal feature in the view from this, and is several feet E 66 Letters from China. higher than Ben Lomond. There is a Buddhist Monastery half-way to the top, to which people often go for change of air during the hot season, as it is many degrees cooler than in the plain ■ below. I have not yet been there, as H . is much too busy for such expeditions. We have met with a serious loss in the de- parture of our very nice " Boy." The same mania prevails among butlers in China, for shop-keeping as exists in our own country, whenever they have collected a little money, and ends very generally with the same result, viz., losing it all. Our servant has left us to join his brother in keeping a shop at Hong-Kong, and in his place, we have one who understands neither his business nor a word I say. A glaring instance of the latter fact occurred two days ago, when instead of scolloped crab, there appeared at dinner a dish of hot boiled crabs, and this incident has furnished my husband with a handle for derision against the distinctness of the orders given by his new house- keeper, not soon to be forgotten ! How could I possibly know that in order to make the stupid old creature understand what was wanted, I should have told him to " catchee that crab, takee all that inside out, makee cut small, all proper, and putee inside that crab's back ! " I am sure any sympathetic housewife will feel for me. Letters from China. 67 LETTER XVI. \2th August 187-. A Steamer has come in from Hong-Kong bring- ing no English letters, so the mail must have been late. There is, however, a telegram with the news that Prussia and France have declared war. It seems very sudden, and we fear, may distract France from punishing the Chinese as they ought to do, for the outrages of Tien-tsin. I am happy to say most of the hot weather is now over, as we may expect September to be de- cidedly cooler. To-day it is quite charming, the thermometer only 85°, and a fresh breeze. What makes the heat here very trying while it lasts, is, that the nights are so little cooler than the days. Many times the thermometer has stood at 87° during the night in my bed-room with all the doors and windows open. There is generally an hour or two of comparative comfort just before sunrise, so that I have some sympathy for one of the cadets, who, when told what a good time the early morning was for work, remarked readily enough " Yes, sir, but it is a very good time also for sleep." J have no reason personally to complain of the heat, not having suffered either from it or the want 68 Letters from China. of exercise. I have always been dressed by 7. 30 A.M., and been able to occupy myself within doors very much as I should do at home : but H.'s work exposes him very much to the sun, so that by the evening he is generally quite knocked up. I am therefore thankful on his account for the ap- proach of the cool season. Last week we again emerged from our quiet life into the gayer world of Foo-chow, on the occasion of a party being given at the Consulate to which the musical talent of the Arsenal was invited to lend its aid. The party was a most successful one ; but it proved a very fatiguing expedition, as contrary to the wishes of our hospitable host and hostess, who had rooms prepared for us, we foolishly insisted on coming back at night. The return voyage was very tedious, as we started between twelve and one, and did not get home till six in the morning. Our polite Director had a house-boat towed by the Arsenal steamer, in order that I might sleep all the way ; but the heat and mosquitos combined to frustrate all his consider- ate arrangements for my comfort. August i^t/i. — I was up early this morning and went with H. to see the cadets at their gunnery drill in the imaginary ship, and was much amused by that part of the performance when some of Letters from China. 69 them acted being killed and wounded in order that their companions might learn to carry off the bodies properly, and place the wounded in safety. This exercise is expected to give much satisfaction to the Imperial Commissioner, who always likes some little novelty when he comes to see the drill, as he intends to do in a few days. LETTER XVII. 24M August 187-. Since I wrote last we have had an excitement of a most disagreeable nature. One evening about a week ago, on going into my room, I observed something lying on the floor, and stooping to pick it up, found that it was a bag, out of which rolled a number of small coins, and which I knew had been locked up in a drawer where money was kept. That we had been visited by a thief was the thought which at once flashed across our mind, and which proved, alas ! to be the case. H.'s watch, several valuable articles of mine — valuable in themselves, and still more so for the sake of the donors, money to a considerable amount — all had been carried off while we were down stairs at dinner. There was no doubt the robbery had been committed by some 70 Letters from China. one who knew the house and the habits of its mas- ter and mistress well, for circumstances prove that it was done in the dark. The candle which had been brought had not been lighted and was left behind like the bag of coins, when the thief, we suppose, becoming nervous had fled too rapidly to pick up the latter when it fell. No time was lost as the Mandarin who lives at the school went at once to the Yamlan, and within an hour our servants were all arrested, with the exception of the Boy, who was not in his room, and was found soon after at an opium and gambling shop, where, it turned out, he had been in the habit of passing the night ever since he entered our service a fortnight before. N.B. — I ought to mention that this is not the hero of the boiled crabs, with whom we parted not exactly on account of his mal-treatment of these shell-fish, but because of his general stupidity and ignorance of his duties. The excitement among the people from the Yamiin was great. About ten Mandarins visited the house in the course of the night, and in their eagerness to see the exact spot whence our stolen goods had been taken, were with difficulty re- strained from penetrating into the sacred precincts of my room. Letters from China. . 71 The other servants were sent back in the morning after being bambooed to induce them to tell all they knew, but circumstantial evidence is so strong against the Boy, he is still in durance. He suggested that his predecessor must have been the thief, and the latter in his turn did the same by his, so in the end they had three Boys at the Yamtin, and my horror was great on Saturday when our nice old servant who left us to go into business, arrived here in a dreadful state of mind with the cold drops of terror literally standing on his forehead. He had persuaded the soldier who arrested him to bring him to see us first, for having been known for years as a most respectable character, you can imagine his mental and physical objections to paying a visit to the Yamiin, whence no prisoner, guilty or innocent, returns, without some experience of the bamboo. H. and Mon- sieur G., however, got him off, and, poor fellow,^ he returned in a profound state of gratitude to them for doing so, and having given surety to the commissioner that he would appear if required. The truth is, the Chinese are sometimes so cruel, one would hesitate again to appeal to them. Their principle seems to be to punish everybody that comes in their way, on the chance of his being the right person. The Boy they now have 72 Letters from China. for instance, is bambooed daily, and we were told that one day he was suspended by his thumbs for four hours. This process is supposed to be an incentive to speaking the truth, and no doubt would be so, were the victim not himself the guilty person, which in the present instance he probably is, and that being the case, as the reward for truth would very likely be having his head cut off, you will agree with me the inducement to confession is not great. If he is innocent he is certainly having a serious warning to sleep in the right place and not at an opium shop. His having been found in one would quite prevent our taking him again into our service, however innocent of the theft, as no opium-smoker can be trusted. In case of being visited by any more thieves, we now lock our doors when we go down stairs, and have sent to England for latch locks, which we think will be a great safeguard in a mansion which is the common territory of two establishments. LETTER XVIII. i\th September, 187-. Here we are, feeling quite cool and comfortable again, for nothing could be more charming than the temperature now is ! Letters from China. 73 Madame D. and I have paid several visits to the Roman CathoHc Church to try a very fine harmonium which has lately arrived from France. Of course she and her compatriots are greatly excited about the war with Prussia, indeed we all are, and I do nothing but read newspapers for days after the mails come in. With these we are very well supplied as our neighbour and we take the Times and the Pall Mall Budget. We are afraid all this commotion in Europe may turn away attention from the Chinese who are evidently much inclined to get bumptious in the north, in consequence of no decided action being taken regarding the Tien-tsin massacre ; but surely in the cause of humanity such a bar- barous outrage will not be allowed to pass without punishment. ■ The people in the north and those here are quite a different race and speak a different dialect, so that no one need be nervous about us. The Imperial Commissioner also is a most despotic individual and keeps them in very good order. He was most indignant about the robbery and did all in his power to discover the offender. Our servant was kept in prison for a rnonth, in spite of various efforts on the part of his friends at Foo- 74 Letters from China. chow to have him liberated, but " the tyrant Shen" as some people call him, reasoned thus : — Circumstantial evidence was strongly against the Boy ; he, being principal servant in the house, wis responsible for everything in it. Instead of being found where he ought to be, he was sleeping at an illicit opium shop, and opium smokers are notoriously not to be trusted, therefore in any point of view, he deserved to be punished." I confess to being quite of the same opinion, and after it was ascertained that the periodical floggings and suspensions by the thumbs, had been discontinued, I had no further compassion for the delinquent. Nothing has been heard of our lost property, and I fear now, there never will be. The progress made in preparing the " Foo- Sing " {Anglice, " Lucky Star") for sea is so slow, she probably will not be ready till November or December, so the evil day when I shall be left alone is happily postponed. I went a few days ago to see her put on a patent slip which has lately been constructed here, and is considered rather a novelty of the kind, as the vessel is taken up sideways instead of being pulled up by its nose ! Most of the inhabitants of the Anchorage and Arsenal were present to see Letters from China. 75 its first performance, which was accompHshed with perfect success. TyOth. — We went this morning in the EngHsh gunboat stationed here, to Foo-chow — shopped at a large store there, called on some friends, and returned in time for dinner in a gig which had been towed up for the purpose. A very warm day ended in a torrent of rain, so we came back looking as if we had been taking a walk in a shower bath. We have had very heavy rain several times lately, which has had a most reviving influence on the garden. There are some beautiful hibiscus and pomegranates in bloom, and the most gigantic cocks' combs I ever saw. The soil must evidently be very productive, notwithstand- ing the hard baked appearance the constant watering, and grilling by the sun gives it during the hot season. We have sown some of the seeds sent from England, as we are told this is a good time for doing so ; but have kept part of them to sow in Spring, that we may learn from personal experi- ence which season is best for the purpose. 76 Letters from China. LETTER XIX. 2oth October 187-. Our Imperial Commissioner has just lost his father ; and some days ago a sheet of paper, about a yard and a half long and half as broad, covered with Chinese characters, was handed in by a messenger from the Yamun, which we rightly concluded was the announcement of the event. It may amuse you to read the translation of it, kindly made for me by a friend who is a good Chinese scholar, as well as a few of his remarks on the ceremonies alluded to : [translation.] " To His Hotiour Siln, Naval Professor. " Be it known that the unfilial Pao-chen [writer of this letter] who, on account of his manifold and grievous crimes, was worthy of sudden death, has not died, and that, instead, the calamity has fallen upon his worthy father ; upon whom the reigning Emperor of the Ta Tsing \t.e., Great Pure] dynasty had conferred the iirst order of rank in the Civil Service and that in the Imperial Body Guard, and the Governorship of the Province of Keang-se. " In the twelfth year of the reign of the Emperor Tao- Kuang, at the competition of the literati he gained the rank Letters from China. 77^ of Chu-jen '[i.e., the second highest literary rank open to com- petition]. " The writer's father, Tan-lin [so called by relatives and friends], fell sick on the 9th day of this month, and lingered in great pain until the 12th, when he passed away. " He was bom about two or three in the morning of the 28th day of the 9th moon in the 5 2d year of the reign of the Emperor Kien-Wong, and was therefore somewhat over eighty- four years old. " Immediately he expired, the family went into mourning, and now, alas ! have sorrowfully to communicate with you. "We have chosen the i8th, 19th, and 20th for the return presentation of this card \i.e., a reception will be given on those days to those who wish to mourn : no admission without this card]. " No funeral presents can be received. " The writer and his brother are kneeling with forehead in the dust, weeping tears of blood. "The sons of the writer and of his brother, nine in number, are kneeling with downcast faces, weeping tears of blood. "The relatives and descendants \i.e., kindred not so nearly connected], to the number of nine, are on their knees [before the coffin], beating their heads upon the ground. " [Dated from] The residence of the writer, named the Ancient Grotto of the Fairies." Our friend writes to me as follows : " I send you the translation with a note or two in brackets to explain the text. " I have been present at some of these solemni- 78 Letters from China. ties, and have seen the 'blood weeping' and ' head-bumping,' alluded to. " They do bump and howl most dreadfully, but refresh themselves with tea every five or ten minutes, and then begin again. " As the bumping and howling is accompanied by a full Chinese brass band, gong, drum, trumpet, and triangle, the effect is not exactly that produced by the Orchestra at the Queen's Theatre, but it is certainly as overpowering, though in a different way ! " I was very sorry that "His Honour SAn" (who, I hope you recognise under his Chinese cognomen,) did not accept the invitation and accompany the Director to pay his respects on the occasion, as I might then have been able to give you a more minute account of what took place. Mon. G., however, seemed to think that his going and sending presents according to Chinese etiquette, in his own name, and that of the other European employes would be sufficient. He told me that when he went to pay his visit of condolence, he was received by the Commissioner in the attitude of a dog on his hands and knees, and groaning and sobbing all the time. Mon. G. expressed his sympathy as well as that of the Letters from China. 79 other officials of the Arsenal ; but poor " Shen " only listened for a moment, and then resumed his lamentations. The body will not be buried for a hundred days, during which time any number of visitors must be received in like manner. According to Chinese customs, no one ought to marry or transact business for three years after the death of a parent, and the higher the rank, the more rigidly has this rule to be attended to. On account, however, of our Commissioner's services being so much required, the Emperor has given him a dispensation whereby he may abstain from business for a hundred days only, another Mandarin being appointed to take his place -meantime. Should you like to know more about these curious ceremonies attending the mourning for the dead, a great deal of interesting informa- tion on the subject is to be found in Mr J. Doo- little's "Social Life of the Chinese." I tell you only what comes under our own personal knowledge. 8o Letters from China. LETTER XX. ^th November 1%"]-. To-day I have been visited by a number of French Naval Officers from a gun-boat that has just come in. They are all rejoicing at the fall of the Emperor and hoping for the establishment of a good (?) Republic, for which I of course upbraided them with their inconstancy. You will be sorry to hear that we are about to lose our pleasant neighbour Madame D. Her husband has eighteen months' leave of absence, and there is therefore no object in their remaining here, so they intend returning to Europe. A very sad return it will be to them in the present state of France, and not knowing where to find their relations who fled from poor besieged Paris. Madame D. will be a great loss to me, especially in the solitary life I am likely to have sometimes, and of which I had a foretaste a few days ago when H. and his pupils went their trial trip in the " Foo-Sing." It lasted two days only but they appeared very long ones. One of my grievances (and who is not troubled with such ?) is that from our house we cannot see the Harbour, so that I have not even the variety of watching Letters from China. 8i the arrivals and departures, and the constantly animated scene on the river. I have had, however, three lively days to make up for those two dreary ones. Our friends the Consul and his wife have been staying with Mon. G., at whose house we have dined, and had music and billiards every evening. On Friday Mrs S. spent the day with me, and at four o'clock M. Le Directeur and H. made their appearance to take us over the work-shops of the .Arsenal. About these I have never told you anything, for the excellent reason that this was actually the first time I had visited them ; but, as you know;, what can be done any day, is proverbially that which is most liable to be left undone. Even now it is quite beyond my powers to tell you all we saw, so let me hope that you, like me, have not a mechanical mind. Suffice it to relate that it is the largest establishment of the kind in China, that we build ships,— make engines, — teach various kinds of knowledge — and dearest of all to the heart of the Director, have a huge steam-ham- mer whose noise predominates over all our other varieties of sound. The chronometer shop seemed to me the most interesting department, and the Chinese appear to 82 Letters from China. be very clever in learning the art of watch-making. There is something in the neat and detailed nature of the work which suits them and makes it likely to prove one of the most successful branches of instruction. On Saturday we were to have accompanied Mr and Mrs S. back to Foo-Chow ; but it was such a morning of wind and rain H. found his troublesome ship had broken away from her moor- ings, which prevented his going. I was therefore preparing rather unwillingly to leave him behind, when, to my great satisfaction a note arrived from Mon. G. to say that he had persuaded his guests to remain another day. It being arranged that our visit should be post- poned for a week we naturally expected to have better weather, in which hope we were quite dis- appointed,, as it poured in a manner that would have been beyond apology even in our own rainy country. Had it been fine, we intended to have accom- plished our voyage in a gig, which, with six oars, is much the pleasantest mode of transit ; but being so wet, we were obliged to have a house- boat. Though we started at nine o'clock, at eleven we still found ourselves some miles from Foo- Letters from China. 83 Chow with the wind and tide against us ; so the cooHes had to jump out and run along in the splashy paddy-fields, dragging us after them with ropes in canal-boat fashion. Judging from the laughter and fun that went on they must have found it rather amusing ; and so did I for a time, but it was also decidedly tedious. Chairs had awaited our arrival for four hours and then been taken home, thinking we were not coming ; we had therefore to throw ourselves on the mercy of some philanthropic friends who live near the landing-place and who kindly sent us on in theirs. Notwithstanding the rain, we again sallied forth in chairs after Tiffin to return the visits of those who had calle4 on us when we stayed last at Foo-Chow. There were a- feW people at dinner, and in the evening we played bezique, which seems to be a very popular game in this part of the world. As we could remain a day only, there was no time for seeing anything of the native town or surrounding country except as before, from a distance. On Sunday morning we went to the pretty little consular chapel ; and after a hurried Tiffin returned home with the clergyman when 84 Letters from China. he came to the anchorage for his usual afternoon duty. \oth. — The climate continues much too Euro- pean at present in its sudden changes of tem- perature. Two nights ago we had a fire for the first time since my arrival in China, and I must confess it looked very cheerful and like home, when we came up from dinner. We are supplied with coal by the Chinese. It comes from the Island of Formosa and is very bad, but when mixed with that from England or Australia, it burns tolerably well. LETTER XXI. \t,thNov.\%j-. I trust my letter sent last week may reach its destination. I put "via Marseilles" on it, hoping that if that route should no longer be available, it might be forwarded by any other that had been established instead of it. I shall send this one by Southampton, so that you may be sure sooner or later to have your minds relieved by hearing that we are alive and well. We cannot wonder that all that is said in the Letters froih China. 85 newspapers^ should make our friends at home very miserable about us. You would see, how- ever; by our letters, if they have arrived as regularly as they have been despatched, that we have had no alarm here, and really feel ourselves quite safe. The latter fact is not due to the amount of protection Britain gives her subjects in China, but for reasons some of which I have already mentioned, and others shall be given hereafter. Meantime you are going to have a commentary on what has been said on the subject in Par- liament. In the Times of the 28th September there is a list given of the ships of war stationed at the different ports, in which it is mentioned that the " Severn " is at Foo-Chow ; and then there is a kind of postscript stating that the " Banterer " has been sent there, as if intended to denote that the latter was in addition to the other ship. It is impossible to believe that the statement could be made with the wish to deceive ; but there is a material difference in the amount of protection the two ships would give — the " Severn " being a large frigate, the other a small gunboat. The former is laid up in ordinary at Sheerness, which makes the mis-statement a very 86 Letters from China. glaring one to those whom it was said she is pro- tecting. The " Banterer " really is stationed here, or rather was, for she is now at the town — a very proper place for her to be, but if our government think that a gunboat stationed at the town of Foo-Chow is any protection to the inhabitants of the Anchorage, or vice versa, except for the moral effect of her presence, they are greatly mistaken, as it is only in certain states of the tide that a vessel can get up and down the river; hours, therefore, must elapse before any gunboat could come from one place to the other, and as the in- habitants of Foo-Chow have very naturally re- quested that it should remain there, it is quite obvious that we are left unprotected he^'e. I may also mention with regard to the " Banterer " that her boilers are utterly worn out, so that she can- not be considered in an efficient state. There is also an imposing list of ships given as being at Hong-Kong, which may very likely be correct as regards gunboats, but people laugh at the idea of the " Princess Charlotte " being men- tioned as an available ship of war, she being simply an old hulk used for firing salutes and other peaceful purposes, but useless for any de- fensive or offensive purpose. Letters froTU China. 87 When the massacre of Tien-tsin took place, the only vessel the Admiral had available to send at the moment, was the " Opossum." Naval men tell us that at that time a large proportion of this very old gunboat's crew wer^ Chinese, employed temporarily to replace men who had died or were invalided, the economical government finding it too expensive to send out English sailors for that purpose. (Of course other vessels arrived after- wards.) The Peiho being frozen up about this time, the inhabitants of Tien-tsin must either be left for some months without any protection, or the ships sent there must remain during that time without being able to move. H. has always said' what you see Captain Osborne now suggests in the " Times," viz., that the Taku Forts should be occupied by European troops. It was thought the French would do so, and make the Chinese pay their expenses for three years,, but their miserable plight making that impossible, surely England, for their benefit, as well as her own, ought to come to the rescue, and do it for them. People say, that had Ad- miral Keppel been in these seas now, he would have taken possession of the Forts first, and asked leave afterwards ! 88 Letters from China. It is not, however, surprising, that Consuls and Naval Ofificers should be afraid to act with vigour, when, if they do so, they are sure to be blamed for it. We rather expected that the French would have seized the Chinese gun-boats, and held them as guarantees for the" conditions they imposed being carried into effect. Two of these vessels left this just about that time to go to Tien-tsin, but hearing at Chefoo what had happened, they went no farther, and re-appeared here very soon afterwards. No doubt there were some uncom- fortable fears in the mind of their commanders, as to what would be done if they were caught by the French ! As it is, the Chinese have had a great victory, for since I wrote last week, the Director has had an official announcement from the French Minis- ter at Pekin to say that the Tien-tsin affair is settled. About a dozen or fourteen of the sup- posed ring-leaders are to be beheaded, and the ruling Mandarin removed {report says to a more lucrative post ! !) The population being so large, coolies' heads are not considered of much consequence and can always be purchased, for, as the Celestials have not the same fear of death, or ideas on the subject as Letters from China. 89 we have, it is easy to procure substitutes for real offenders by paying a certain number of dollars to the families of volunteers, which is probably what has been done on the present occasion. The Mandarin who is to be removed is the " Chung How" who is mentioned in the leading article of the 20th September, and who is generally believed to have been, at all events, " accessory before the fact" — it is said, he is the man chosen to go to Paris, which seems rather insulting after what has happened, unless he is sent for the purpose of apologising. We may, in fact, consider that the Chinese have not been punished at all, as nothing has been done that would the least degree intimidate them from repeating the horrors of Tien-tsin to-morrow, if they were so minded. And now for a few comments on another state- ment that was made at the same time that the list of ships was given. You were told that orders had been sent out to the Consular and Naval authorities for the pro- tection of the lives and property of British sub- jects, which sounds very satisfactory, till you know what very limited power is given them for carry- ing these orders into effect. The amount of it is simply this, that should there be any cause for go Letters from China. alarm, as many Europeans as there is room for, may be received on board our guardian gxm-boat, — always supposing she happens to be here at the time! To show you the truth of what I say, I may give an instance of the kind, which happened at Shanghai, where the inhabitants were alarmed at the time of the Tien-tsin affair, and appealed to the Commander of a gun-boat lying in the harbour to ask him to protect them, should any danger arise. His reply was, that he would be most happy to receive as many as possible on board his ship, but more than that, he had not authority to do. When a disturbance of a serious nature took place at Formosa, the Consul acted with vigour — put it down with a high hand and there was an end of it. He was rewarded for doing, so by be- ing at once recalled, which he took so much to heart that he died very soon afterwards. A year ago there was some disturbance about a Sanatorium which was being built for the use of the Foo-Chow Missionaries, at Sharp Peak, a place at the mouth of the river. The Consul first applied for redress to the Viceroy of the Province, who professed his total inability to keep the people in order, and advised Letters from China. 91 Mr S. to take the law in his own hands. Accord- ingly the latter sent down a gnnboat which very- soon brought the culprits to their senses, with the loss of life to one Chinaman. For this act of vigour he was severely reprimanded by the home government. The above three instances, which we know -are facts, will give you some idea whether the protec- tion accorded to the English in China is quite as satisfactory as our orators in parliament would have you believe. I must now, however, say something consola- tory, after having told you so much that is the reverse. Firstly, then, the class of the community who most hate foreigners and all the innovations on the ancient customs of the country that they bring with them, are the literati, of whom there are very few where we are. But secondly, as far as we ourselves are concerned, and all the other Europeans employed in the Arsenal, it would be a most senseless outrage on the part of the celestial authorities were they to murder us them- selves, or allow us to be murdered, when, if they wish to rid themselves of our presence all they have to do is to pay us handsomely for the privilege of not fulfilling theii; contract and send 92 Letters from China. us home in peace and safety ! We therefore feel so perfectly confident in the security of our posi- tion that though we have received a most kind and hospitable invitation from the friends at Hong-Kong to whom you sent us an introduction, we have decided that even when H. goes to sea, it will be better for the present that I should remain here. LETTER XXII. 7.7.d November. The " Foo-Sing " has broken away from her moorings or otherwise misconducted herself, which obliges H. to remain on board till two in the morning. I shall therefore wile away the solitary evening hours by a chat on paper with my rela- tives "over the sea." First, then, let me relieve your minds regarding the long expected boxes, which have at last arrived in perfect safety. How great the pleasure was in unpacking them and imagining the care that had been bestowed on all the marvellously done-up packages, I shall not attempt to describe. Suffice it to say, every- thing did credit to the tender care with which it had been treated, by coming forth safe and sound. Letters from China. 93 The Bachelor Hull aspect of our abode is quite changed, and as I sit looking round me, my eyes are met on all sides by the sight of some pretty souvenir of absent friends. Dec. i']th. — You will rejoice to hear that H. is not going to sea at all for the present. After he and his pupils were on board, and the day fixed for their sailing, the Chinese at last made up their minds to buy a ship which has been lying in the harbour for some time, and is larger and much more suitable for training purposes than the "Foo- Sing." The order now is that every one is to come on shore, and the cadets to resume their old quarters in the school behind the house till the new ship is ready, an arrangement which meets with my com- plete approval ! H . however, is rather sorry not to go one voyage in the " Foo-Sing," for though he considers her too small and otherwise unsuit- able for a training ship, he has had much trouble in accomplishing her being fitted up to suit his English ideas, and now the whole thing has to be done over again before the "Matador" is trans- formed into a man of war. Another pleasing excitement we have had within the last few days, has been the arrival of the "Salamis," and consequently our having had 94 Letters from China. a number of visitors, including ' the Admiral, a most kind-hearted old sailor, and full of fun. He assures me we are to have a good large ship sent here to take care of us, which will not be able to get up the river to the town. The assurance, though very pleasant to us, may not be so agree- able to our neighbours at Foo-Chow ! 19//^. — The "Boy" has just appeared at the door in convulsions of laughter, leading two monkeys — an addition to the family, presented to us by the Captain of the " Matador.". I wonder if our usually grave domestic sees, as his mistress does, the striking likeness these animals bear to many of his countrymen ? That question must remain for the present unsolved, as the more important one now arises — " What shall we do with thepi ? " The intelligent " Boy " at once suggests a dog box and a chain in the down stairs verandah — a very good idea, which is instantly acted on, as the presence of this interest- ing mother and daughter amongst our newly- arrived drawing-room ornaments, makes me feel rather nervous ! I must now, however, go and display a proper amount of hospitality to our very human-looking new pets, for they, being inhabit- ants of Java, will probably, require some care during the cold winds which prevail here in winter. Letters from China. 95 LETTER XXIII. 2,1st December. I must write one more letter ere this old and eventful year is quite dead and gone. . . . The last week of 187- has been an unusually gay one, another large ship having been launched, and a number of people came from Foo-Chow to witness the ceremonies, and lunch with the Director. Some of the ofificers of the newly- arrived English corvette, which has been sent as promised, to protect us, were greatly amused by the guns with which the Chinese soldiers fired their salutes — ancient gingalls, requiring two or more men to fire them, one man at least, kneel- ing in front and presenting his shoulder as a kind of gun-carriage, on which the man behind supports his cumbrous weapon while he fires it. I believe I have never yet given you any de- scription of the Chinese soldier, though crowds of them (it is impossible to apply the word regiments to such a confused-looking array) constantly pass our windows. On ordinary days, when no drill is going on, they are utilized in various ways, carrying mud, stones, &c., in fact are employed as common labourers, but on great occasions, such as the launch of a ship, or when a guard of g6 Letters from China. honour is required for any important magnate, they come forth in full uniform. The latter is made of blue and yellow cotton, and each man has on his back a large white hieroglyphic indi- cating the number of the regiment to which he belongs. They are armed with old-fashioned matchlocks or musketoons, called in China g;ingalls, which they load by pouring in the powder and shaking the shot down on the top of it, without using any ramrod. These, with a powder-horn and an umbrella strapped across their back, form the warlike accoutrements of the fighting men belonging to the Chinese Rifle Brigade ; but at least a tenth of them carry only large flags. Whether the latter are supposed to have an exciting or intimidating effect on their enemies, I cannot tell ; the general effect, how- ever, is extremely amusing, when they happen to be caught in a shower, or, when too late, as they usually are, for the hour of assembling, all attempt at order is then abandoned, and helter-skelter they go, laughing and chattering as they run. Besides these, there are the spear and javelin- men, who are all drilled singly. To give you any idea of the extraordinary contortions they go through during the process of drill, is certainly beyond the power of my pen, and I believe of Letters from China. 97 any other person's — not even the curious figures on Chinese and Japanese porcelain can fully con- vey to your mind the grotesque movements of these strange people. And now having described the nature and dis- cipline of the Chinese army, I must return to our- selves and tell you of the pleasant visit we have paid our friends at Foo-Chow. Having missed the steamer which was to have conveyed us, we performed the voyage in a Sanpan, accompanied by two of the officers of the " Zebra." The weather was very cold and rough, so our passage was far from agreeable, especially to one of our friends, who found the waves of the " Min " and' peculiar motion of our too heavily laden little bark anything but conducive to his happiness. At last human patience could stand it no longer, so we decided on walking the rest of the way, which en- abled us to arrive in time for a late Tifiin. After church on Christmas day we walked about seven miles, much to my enjoyment, the air was so exhilarating and the country so pretty. There was actually thick hoar frost and thin ice seen in the morning — a state of things which luckily for us, is vqry unusual, the houses being constructed with a view to keeping their inhabitants cool, but with very little regard to the reverse arrangement. 98 Letters from China. Only fangy your bathroom being enclosed only by , Venetians, through which a keen north-east wind blows ruthlessly. Most of the day on Monday was employed in decorating the ball-room, in which occupation we considered much genius for art was developed. The dinner-party and dance which followed were eminently successful. Sir Roger de Coverley, with which the latter concluded, evidently amused our Chinese spectators more than anything. One of them said to Mr F. " Supposee you rtiakee jump all same that fashion, must makee tipsey first." For the sake of his own good character as well as that of his guests, our host had to explain tliat " Sup- posee we makee tipsey, we no can makee jum,p, but makee fall down I" ■ Next morning some other friends had, what was called a hunt breakfast, which meant that all ladies who possessed riding habits put them on, and sporting men came booted and spurred. The proceedings of the day began with the party, sixty in number, being photographed in a group, which, of course, proved as «;«successful as such things generally are. Phase second, was the breakfast, after which about twenty enthusiastic equestrians started to the top of the hill? above Foo-Chow, all the ponies Letters from China. 99 in the town being put in requisition for the occa- sion. I was mounted on an excellent old racing pony with whom I very soon established a friendly understanding— a very necessary thing to do with these hard-mouthed quadrupeds who are apt to take the bit in their mouth when so minded, un- less they have a due respect for their rider. My friend " Sandy " and I, however, knew instinctively that we both intended to enjoy ourselves, so up hill and down hill we went, scrambling, jumping, and galloping in perfect amity and mutual satisfac- tion. The view from the top was glorious, the weather lovely, and every one kind and pleasant, so the day will ever be remembered by me as one of the white ones of my life in China. On our return to the ordinary haunts of men, we found the more sober-minded portion of the community assembled on a rising ground in front of the Consulate, round which, and for their especial amusement, the whole cavalcade had a farewell race. Then, and then only, my praise- worthy steed showed symptoms of wishing to consign me to one of the numerous horse-shoe graves of his countrymen, no doubt thinking that the final scamper was quite unnecessary after his previous exertions ! That night we retired to rest in good time to prepare for the festivities of lOO Letters from China. the following- evening, when there was a rechauffe on a larger scale of the previous dinner-party and dance. This terminated our Christmas gaiety ; but musical parties are talked of for the beginning of February, when, being the Chinese New Year, H. hopes to have three weeks' holiday. LETTER XXIV. \st January 187-. The year, I believe, was ushered in by our fellow Europeans with much firing of guns and sending up of rockets ; but all these demon- strations were lost on the lazy people, who, plunged in the arms of Morpheus, heard none of them. To-day we have had a great many visitors, it being the fashion here for every one to call or leave cards ; which latter custom has been adopted by the Imperial Commissioner and some other Mandarins, from whom we received pretty, bright-coloured bits of paper on which were stamped the characters signifying their name. Of course the Chinese card of His Honour-Sun was returned in due form. We had also other proofs of regard for our Letters from China. loi New Year from our Celestial neighbours in the arrival of the usual goose, capon, and two bottles of wine from the Yam{in ; a cake from the Com- prador, which, if not appreciated by ourselves, is highly so by the monkeys ; and' a large basket of mandarin oranges from the good old washerman. Of the latter delicious fruit there are quantities at this season, as well as of the firmer skinned orange, which, grows more plentifully at Amoy. Indeed, the supply of fruit is very good here at most seasons. Besides oranges, there are the lychee, guava, lunyan, loquot, and various other species more or less eatable, which grow in this neighbourhood ; while from the North we have peaches, grapes, and figs. From Amoy comes the pumelo (called shaddock in the West Indies), and from Formosa we receive frequent presents of pine-apples and mangos. All kinds of vege- tables are also cultivated with great success at this time of year, which is the season of plenty as well as of coolness. Fish, too, there is in abundance, and game of varied kinds. Phea- sants are sold for less than a dollar by the Com- pradors, and considerably cheaper by the hawkers who frequently bring them to the door. Wild duck, snipe, and quail are bought at a proportion- ably reasonable price. Partridges are to be had, I02 Letters from China. though not so plentiful, and woodcocks are but rarely seen. The business of Foo-Chow being confined almost exclusively to tea, which does not come into the market till about May, the merchants have little to do during winter : those, therefore, who are sportsmen find a congenial occupation for spare time in going up the river on shooting expeditions. The more enthusiastic often go to Shanghai and thence to the Grand Canal, where they find game both more abundant and in greater variety. We have lately had ocular demonstration that roe-deer exist farther north, by having received the present of part of one, from a friend at Shanghai. Fishing in the river is carried on to a great extent by the use of Cormorants. These birds are grey, about the size of a large goose, and are' trained to dive in search of the fish. When con- tumacious, they sometimes manage to swallow the little ones, but are prevented from making away in like manner with the large fish, by having a string tied loosely, or else a metal ring, round their neck. A well-trained bird, when he catches his prey, will at once swim towards his master, who, of course, goes to meet him, and when near enough, passes a net bag over the two and drags them on to his raft. The bird, if he has caught Letters from China. 103 a good fish, is rewarded with some food and allowed to rest for a time while his companions take their turn of work, for a fisherman has generally several birds with him. Among the delicacies of the cool season, I must not forget to mention the small oysters for which Foo-Chow is remarkable, and which are grown in quantities on bamboos in the river. I LETTER XX -V. January loth. Hearing a sound which somewhat reminded me of my national "pipes," I looked out of the window and beheld a red and gilt chair preceded by a number of people playing on instruments made of bamboo, and in form resembling a flute, while others carried baskets, lanterns, and an umbrella. " Boy " informs me it was" a "gentleman going to catchee wife! " The catcheeing of a wife is as serious an affair in China as it is elsewhere, and accompanied by many more forms and ceremonies than in most countries, nor is the important matter of a trousseau regarded by the Chinese women with less interest than that of their western sisters. I04 Letters from China. There is, however, this difference between their custonls and ours, that, except in the case of wealthy families, the wedding outfit is very generally paid for, principally, by presents received from the bridegroom's relations. Marriages are often arranged while the bride and bridegroom are yet in their cradle, so that the parties most concerned have not much responsibility in the matter ; but I am told that such engagements are rarely broken off. The whole system is very patriarchal^-the sons marry young, generally when they are about eighteen, and take their wives home, where they are ex- pected to work for their father and mother-in-law as daughters of the house. In the case of very poor parents having a female infant to dispose of, she is sometimes handed over at once for a small consideration to the husband's family, and is then brought up along with her future lord and master. Both the betrothal and the marriage itself are attended with endless superstitious observances, and the day on which the latter takes place is decided with great attention to its being what is considered a lucky one. Parents have another and shorter way of dis- posing of their overplus female children, when poor, and they see no prospect of being able to Letters from China. 105 afford to have them married, viz., putting them to death, and people tell me that in the rainy season dead bodies are frequently seen floating in the river. I have also been told by a very old English resident in China, that he has known of a marriage being celebrated with all the usual forms and cere- monies after the death of the contracting parties. It is not very common, and is probably done on ac- count of some arrangement about property. The names of the Bride and bridegroom are written on a piece of bamboo which is put in their respective chairs, and then the chair of the Bridegroom is carried to the Bride's house and the two chairs then return to the house of the Bridegroom's father, where all the usual feasting, &c., takes place. Since my last letter was despatched we have been enduring the discomfort of having our rooms painted^not quite such a lengthy process as in England, as the art of house painting has not yet arrived here at that degree of perfection which , entails much labour. Judging from the odious smell, the paint must, be of a very coarse quality ; it is rubbed on with a kind of sponge made of bamboo shavings, and afterwards slightly smoothed over with a brush. One remarkable io6 Letters from China. , anomaly in the conduct of the artists which I have observed, is, that they do not sing while at work like the British painter, an omission for which we have great reason to be thankful, as a Chinese song is something like a Gaelic one, only much worse, more nasal and harsh in tone. 1 2th February^ — We are now looking forward to our New Year's holiday, the 19th of February being the ist day of what we Celestials call the No. I. Moon. H. would very willingly spend the time quietly at home, which, however, he is not likely to be allowed to do, as we have various hospitable invitations to go to Foo-Chow, and I also hope to see something of the river scenery. I think after the great heat one freezes at a higher temperature, than in Europe, for the thermometer has rarely been below 40, yet, clothed in serge and all the usual habiliments of winter, you would be surprised to see how much I have felt the cold, and to hear the good British grumble at the keen, dry, wind which has blown at times through our airy mansion. I often have had to go into the garden to get warm in the sun, as its rays never penetrate into our north rooms in winter, the very season when they would be welcome. The weather we now have is charming, and I have sown a number of seeds, but am assured Lettws from China. 107 my doing so is premature, as the No. 2. Moon is the orthodox season for putting in seeds which require heat, and that October is a better time for the hardier kinds. Since I have displayed so much energy in the cultivation of our small domain, another implement besides the usual hoe has been shown to me in great triumph by the garden coolie as something very superexcellent. From - the appearance of the article I should imagine it to be the original or exact facsimile of the rake used by our first parents in the garden of Eden ! At Foo-Chow we saw many beautiful camellias flowering out of doors in pots ; but the plants are quite as expensive to purchase as at home, which seems curious, considering how near it is to Japan, their native country. We had intended going to-day to see a Chinese funeral. It was to take place however at so early an hour, that in order to be at the house of the Chinaman, from which Mon. G. had arranged we should witness it, it would have been neces- sary to sleep in the city. Mr L. did not give a very encouraging account of what his country- men's manners were likely to be on the occasion, for though, he said, we need fear no personal violence, yet, unless I could see and not be io8 Letters from China. seen, the mob would say everything coarse and insulting they could think of, and in fact I should create as great a sensation as the funeral. As neither of us know the language, their re- marks would of course have been lost on us, but not so on our escort, and H. did not like the idea of my being exposed to their uncivilized rudeness. My own ardour for sight-seeing also cooled down on finding we should be the only Europeans in the midst of the native city, and on such an ex- citing occasion, so perhaps it was as well that our both having severe colds decided us to give it up. I fear, however, that we may not again have an opportunity of seeing so great ^. function of the kind, as it is said the procession was to be five miles long. The Mandarin who was to be buried, was a man of high rank — the father of our Imperial Commissioner, whose death I men- tioned some time ago. His son has been receiv- ing visits of condolence ever since on his hands and knees, so with ev^ry respect for his father, I should think he must feel it rather a relief now the old man's mortal remains are safely com- mitted to their final resting-place ! The rever- ence of the Chinese for their parents is certainly one of the best features in their character, though Letters from China. 109 some of the ways they have of testifying it are very ludicrous to European notion^. There will be a great deal of ancestor-worship going on soon, the New Year being one of the seasons peculiarly set apart for the purpose. At that time feasts are provided and offered at the tombs of their deceased relatives, which are consumed by the living after they think the spirits of the dead have had as much as is good for them ! Notwithstanding their regard for the dead however, their love of money is still greater, of which we saw an instance one day lately when wa,lking on the hill, we found a man busily em- ployed m potting his ancestor ! Don't laugh and accuse me of writing traveller's tales, as I can assure you he was literally doing what I say — picking his relative's bones carefully out of their « grave, and putting them in a jar. On enquiry we found that one of our neighbours wishing to ex- tend his garden, had purchased the ground im- mediately adjoining, on which there were a good many graves, so our practically-minded China- man was putting his relation's remains into this handy form for removal. Among their many superstitions it is evident they have no fear of ghosts, for one often sdes numbers of poor people living literally " among the tombs," i.e. making no Letters from China. their homes in the small houses there are for' holding coffins, and even using the latter as tables. There is one custom connected with this season which western nations would do well to imitate — all debts must be paid before the expira- tion of the old year, otherwise the debtor is con- sidered a disgraced man, and his reputation seriously injured. Pawnbrokers, therefore, and others are more than usually anxious to dispose of their goods in order to pay their debts, so we have a slight hope that some of our stolen pro- perty may come to light, and the Consul has in- structed his officials to be on the look-out for it. February i<^th. — The Chinese New Year, and coldest day we have had this winter. — Thermome- ter only 52° in spite of closed windows and a large fire. All work is at an end — stores closed, and the Celestials clothed in holiday attire giving themselves up to feasting and an extra amount of gambling for the next ten days. We have had numerous visitors (boat women, &c.,) asking for a Cumshaw (present) which the servants also ex- pect. H. and I went to the handsome Joss House on the hill, thinking some religious cere- mony might be going on, but found it in its usual state of quietude. The priests, however, seemed Letters from China. iii very glad to see us, and offered us tea, and Scuttle was rewarded as on a former occasion for her chin- chinning, by some ''chow-chow " being given to her. It may amuse you to see the somewhat flowery style in which one of the Boys asks for prolonged leave of absence. " My dear Master, — As it is the filial duty of a son to inquire his father's welfare after a long absence from home, I beg humbly that you will kindly confer me with a leave to do so, and if so complied with further beg to allow me to come back one week later than the expiration of the yearly holiday's term, Yours obediently Tang See Cheung. Mr Tang See Cheung and his companions all' adopt the English Esq. in addressing their letters, which looks very absurd after their Chinese names. H. is much disgusted when people talk to his pupils in " Pidgin English," which as you see from the above specimen of orthography is quite un- necessary. Much as one despises that infantine language it saves one a great deal of trouble, for, thanks to it, we are not obliged to learn Chinese, which in this province is a very harsh and untempt- ing tongue. The Mandarin dialect spoken at 112 Letters from. China. Pekin is much softer, but in every dialect so many words have a different meaning varying with the tone in which they are pronounced, that I should think to acquire a thorough knowledge of the language and its written characters would have a decided tendency to soften the brain of the learner. March id. — We have just returned from a t'en days' visit at Foo-Chow, and send thanks to our many praiseworthy correspondents for the satisfac- tory budget of letters which we found waiting our arrival. There has been the usual round of amusement — dinners — Tiffins — rides, and finally an expedi- tion to the top of " Kushan " for which we started at 8 A.M., yesterday morning. It was a_glorious day, and the ascent a very easy one as far as the Buddhist Monastery half-way up, to which we were carried in chairs, and afterwards proceeded on foot. The distant view was not very clear, and the wind at the top, icy cold, so we did not stay there long ; but the views further down were lovely and the hill covered with all kinds of beautiful shrubs. Walking in winter dress and even then feeling so cold, it was difficult to realize that nearly to the summit many of these were azaleas, orange trees, &c; What they grow in is Letters from China. 113 difficult to say, for on the high part of the moun- tain the soil looks very arid. I suppose, how- ever, they must find something good among the stones to induce them to live at such a height. • The people cut them down for fire wood in win- ter, which gives them at present rather a snubbed appearance, but about six weeks hence they will be in flower, and then I hope to return as far as the monastery, which is quite high enough to as- cend for beauty of scenery. The Monastery itself is all very curious. — Magnificent large gilded images guarding its entrance and trampling under their enormous feet the cleverest looking little devils I ever saw ! There are a great many sacred animals — pigs, fowls, ' fish, creatures of all kinds, and all supposed to be inhabited by some transmigrated spirit. Two services take place daily in the temple, which smells exactly like a Roman Catholic Church, in consequence of the incense and joss sticks which are kept perpetually burning. On some future occasion we hope to see the service for which we could not stay, the hour being 6 p.m., too late for us to get home by day-light. , While taking " tiffin " in a small outer part of the temple, a man came to do his devotions for the year, and appeared to be a very devout be- H 114 Letters from China. liever in his fine brazen image — which I question whether many of his nation really are. He "chin-chinned" and prayed for a long time, between each act of devotion throwing up two bits of wood, hoping to see by- the way they fell what luck he was to have for the year ; but, alas ! no answer came : his gods, like those of the priests of Baal, were deaf to his call. One could not help feeling sorry for the evident discomfiture of the poor heathen, and wondering when, and by what means the inhabitants of this great empire are to be brought to worship the one true God. From what we hear. Mission work advances at present very slowly. The Mission schools are tolerably well attend,ed ; for John Chinaman likes to be educated, and willingly tolerates Christian- ity for the sake of the knowledge he and his children acquire by it, but there is reason to fear the number of those who embrace the Christian religion in sincerity and truth, is comparatively small. The proselytes to the Church of Rome are much more numerous than those to Protestant- ism — which can easily be accounted for, its mis- sionaries having been at work for the last ' two hundred years, whereas ' those of the various Protestant denominations were only sent out at a Letters from China. 115 very recent date. The system also of the Romish Church certainly appears more suited, in some respects, for missionary purposes. It is painful, but only too notorious, that Mission work is seriously impeded at the ports most frequented by foreigners, owing to the often bad example of the latter. Indeed, a Christian Chinese neigh- bour of ours told me that it had been remarked to her by some of her countrymen that the foreign missionaries had better teach their own people to behave well before interfering with them ! Such being the case, it naturally follows that conversions go on more successfully among the unsophisticated inhabitants of the interior, whom to reach, men have to adopt the dress of the country, endure many hardships, and run end- less risks — which it is obviously not in the nature of things our married clergy can undertake. After this digression on a subject which is too large and difficult for my frivolous pen, I shall conclude my letter with an amusing story told to us a few days ago, and which proves the respect the Chinese have for their deities will not stand any very severe test. On one occasion at Shanghai, when they were very much in want of rain, they became so indignant with their gods for allowing the earth ii6 Letters from China. to be so hot and parched, that in order to make them reahse how uncomfortable it was to be scorched in a burrting sun with no rain to cool the air, they set them in the sun without um- brellas or any other covering, not even providing the poor " Josses " with their usual amount of " chow-chow." They were left in this exposed state for three or four days, after which the rain came, and the gods were restored to their wonted abode. Let us hope that this 'severe discipline taught them to be more considerate for the future ! LETTER XXV L March <,th. For the last few evenings a number of people have been going about in processions, carrying lanterns and beating gongs — the former made in the shape of fish, cocks, hens, and some very large ones illuminated by numer- ous lights, representing a dragon. This amuse- ment is called " manoeuvering the dragon," which is carried on poles by many bearers, so that the animal wriggles about like a great sea-serpent. This being the 15th day of the Chinese " No. i Letters from China. 117 moon," is the day set apart for the special Feast of Lanterns : the noise of crackers, guns, &c., has therefore come to a cHmax, and the " manoeuver- ing the dragon " more energetic than ever. , I saw one being put through its contortions this morning, but the Hght of day did not suit its complexion, so it looked very miserable. 2<^th. — The weather has been very wet lately but varied by some beautiful warm days, and yesterday being one of them, I accepted the proffered escort of Mon. G. and accompanied him and some other friends to the races at Foo-Chow. The total absence of roads makes an expedition of the kind rather a complicated affair, though not on that account the less amusing to a novice like myself. We first started in a small steamer, from which when it could go no further, we and our chairs were removed into smaller boats — they, in their turn had to be abandoned, after which we mounted our chairs and were carried for three quarters of an hour across country and through paddy fields. Our voyage and journey occupied three hours and caused our arrival to be very late and our- selves very hungry. We were in time however to see several races, the last, ridden by Chinese horse boys, was much the most amusing, they looked so extremely like monkeys. Racing these small ii8 Letters from China. ponies with such heavy weights seemed to me rather cruel ; many of the poor little animals were not above thirteen hands, and though very strong, eleven stone must have been a disagreeable amount of avoirdupois for them to carry. Our return trip was even longer than the one " out- ward bound," the wind and tide being, as usual, against us, but the party were all musical, so the time was pleasantly wiled away by many a song, and we came back well pleased with the day's excursion. During the transit in single file along the narrow raised pathways which are the only boundary to the paddy fields, there was ample opportunity for observing the Chinese mode of agriculture. Their ploughs and harrows are as primitive in their construction as the garden implements described in a former letter, and are drawn by very patient looking buffalos with a ring through their nose ; to this is attached a single rope, by which they are guided. The way the fields are irrigated is very curious ; it is accom- plished by means of chain pumps, which are worked by either one or two people who walk tread-mill-fashion on the arms of a kind of wheel, supporting themselves as they do so on a pole placed horizontally for the purpose. The pace Letters from China. 119 at which they move regulates the quantity of water that is thrown into the field. Of course the carrying of grain is done, like everything else, by a pole swung across the shoulders, the grain tied in bundles at each end, for in the country, as at the Arsenal, no carts exist. LETTER XXVII. April i^th, 187- H. dined two days ago at the Yamun, and as I cannot describe a feast at which I was not present, he has written an account of it for your benefit which I now enclose. The only disagreeable official duty connected with the Chinese Imperial service at this Arsenal, is the annual dinner at the Yamun. On the first occasion it was curious but, now the novelty has worn off, it has become rather an infliction. The whole of the foreign employes are invited to these feasts. They are divided into four classes of guests, each class dining in a separate room. The fashion of the Chinese is not to use large tables, but to divide their guests into small parties at a number of little ones, which gives their dining- rooms something the appearance of a European Caf6. These tables usuallyaccommodate about six. 120 Letters from China. The guests of the first class were the Director and three or four others next In importance. The Professors of each department came next — then the foremen of the different workshops, and finally the workmen. One Mandarin or official of some kind of rank comparative to the class of goiests he was appointed to attend to, sat at each table to do the honours and make himself agreeable. Many of these belong to what are aptly called by their countrymen " Yamun lice" (court parasites) and are a numerous class who pick up a disreputable living by "squeezing" money out of everyone who comes to the Yamun to transact business, to make complaints, or obtain justice : criminals too, who are trying to escape justice extensively fee them. When the guests were assembled, our Host (the .Imperial Commissioner) came in with a tea- pot in his hand, and the attendants having handed cups to us, he personally poured out the refreshing beverage, and with many polite genuflections thus made us welcome. We then sat down at our appointed tables, and the feast began. It is impossible to describe the mdnu in detail, so various, so numerous, and so mysterious are the dishes. The table is furnished with saucers, small basins, Letters from China. 121 a china-ware spoon, and a pair of chop sticks for each person. The use of thfe chop sticks is soon learned. Both sticks are held in the right hand, and so arranged between the fingers that they simply become a pair of tongs, and as in cooking everything is " done to rags" there is no cutting to be done, which with us, makes a knife and fork indispensable. The dinner was composed of everything except Beef and Mutton, these being two articles of food never, I believe, seen in a Chinese house. The staple materials for their dishes are pork, fowl, and fish, all kinds of vegetables, sea-weed, fungi, and all sorts of curious things. Everything is boiled and comes to table either in the form of soup, stew, or haricot. It is astonishing what absurd notions even well-educated people in England have about the uncleanly feeding of the Chinese. As there are horse butchers in Paris, so, in some of the large cities of China, there may be found a few shops where dog, cat, or rat may ,be purchased, but I fancy the consumers in both cases belong to much the same class of the community. The table is served by each person having a " portion " of whatever the " course " may be, put before him, but there is often a large dish placed 122 Letters from China. in the centre, and also dishes of condiments that each possessor of chop-sticks dips into in common. As a rule I have found it wise to dine principally on the more simple soups, and merely make a pretence of eating those I could not clearly under- stand. I may mention one dish, however, to which justice was always done. It is made from what in England are only used to pelt unpopular candidates at elections. What process they undergo before coming to table I know not ; they appear like hard boiled, black eggs, stewed in some very palatable sauce, and are really excellent. The number of ''courses" these dinners go through, is very large. I think on one occasion we had between thirty and forty, — -the dinner lasting from three to four hours, and politeness demands that you are to eat, or at all events appear to ^2.\. of all. Rice wine hot, and very taste- less, is constantly handed round. The Chinese drink a great deal of it, and very often challenge each other to see who can drink the most. I never.^ however, saw any one made drunk by it, they rnerely get excited in manner, and flushed in the face. Oddly enough, the crowning dish of the repast, is a huge basin of plain boiled rice. It is said Letters from China. 123 that this prevents any evil effects from excess either of eating or drinking — sobers you in fact, and sends you away from table with clear intellects. To a dinner such as the one just described, ladies would, naturally, not be invited in any country, but in China, even when their festivities are of a more private nature, men and women never eat together. Husbands and wives, with their families may do so ; but when any guests are invited to dinner, the ladies dine in one room, and the gentlemen in another. Our neighbours, the L.s, though always ready to talk and laugh to any extent with their European brother Christians, are obliged to disappear the moment any Chinaman comes to call, and even though they do so, I fancy their compatriots look rather askance at them in consequence of their having to a great extent adopted the habits of western nations. LETTER XXVIII. ■},oth April 1 87-. We have for some time been in a most be- nighted state as regards service in the church. 124 Letters from China. It was given up in consequence of the with- drawal of the Government grant having so materially reduced the income of the consular chaplain ; he has returned to England, and no one has yet been found to take his place. The cessation of all church-going evidently excited great surprise in the mind of our grave domestic, who at last asked me in what I thought was rather a tone of reprimand, " Missisy, what for that church man not come all same as before time ? " I hope my explanation satisfied him that it was not caused by any want of appreciating the ordi- nances of our religion ; but his anxiety on account of our spiritual destitution will now be relieved, as to-day the church was reopened, owing to the kindness of the American mission- aries, who have promised to send one of their number every Sunday as long as their other duties will admit of their doing so. During this clerical famine we have occasionally gone for service on Sunday on board the English man-of- war lying in the harbour. We have also been indebted to her hospitable commander for a good deal of secular amusement on other days — theatricals acted by the crew, &c. May Afth. — Two excitements have occurred in one day — a most unusual event in our quiet life. Letters from China. 125 Firstly, we heard that a watch, exactly answering the description of the one which was carried off with our other property nearly a year ago, had been offered for sale at Foo-Chow. Fortunately it was taken to be valued at a shop where the theft was known, and the proprietor sensibly retained it for identification. H. of course went off at once to Foo-Chow, and came home in triumph with his long-lost chronometer. Excitement the second was not of such a satisfactory nature, being no less a catastrophe than our finding the house .on fire. A petroleum lamp, left burning in the room of our neighbour Mr C, had been upset either by the little dog, a sudden gust of wind, or by some other mysterious agency. About eleven o'clock H. heard a noise, and, looking out, saw the reflection of the light in t)ie verandah, and on going into the room found the blazing oil running over the table and floor. With some difficulty the flames were extinguished, but the room would, in a few minutes longer, have been hopelessly on fire had we retired to rest at our usually early hour, which a dinner party had prevented our doing. \Zth May. — The arrival of English tools has given a fresh impetus to our fnania for gardening. Owing to the heat, it can, however, only be 126 Letters from China. indulged in at a very early hour in the morning, or during the interval, which in these latitudes is very short, between sunset and darkness. It is satisfactory to find, after a year's experience, that with a little care one can obtain an almost con- stant supply of flowers ; and it is astonishing how well those of every climate seem to grow and flourish, from the gardenia and pomegranate to the mignonette, wallflower, and sweet-pea of our English gardens. 1 fear the hosts of insects that are invading us foretell a very hot season. Almost everything in the garden has been half devoured by a beautiful little beetle, which would be better employed in adorning the artificial fl6wers sold in England, than in destroying my most cherished plants here ; but I hope that the gardener's indefatigable warfare against them, carried on every night by torchlight, may now have put an end to their raids. The cockroaches in the house, and still worse in the ship, are terrible to behold : the creatures are so large, run like racers and fly like birds, so there is no getting rid of them. As soon as some are trapped, others appear on the scene. Their peculiar weakness is for kid, and they destroy one's best and neatest boots in a manner which makes them expensive,, as well as disagreeable. Letters from China. 127 jfune I \th. — Mr O. who lunched with us to-day, told me some horrible instances of the cruel pun- ishments practiced by the Chinese. Last autumn a man stole some part of a lady's head-dress. Being discovered, he was pursued, and probably knowing the fate that awaited him were he taken, he tried to put an end to himself, in which, how- ever, he failed and was captured. His punishment for this depredation, was being exposed on the bridge at Foo-Chow in a cage, and without food till he died. Such is the inhuman disposition of the populace, that even women with infants in their arms stood gloating their eyes on the suffer- ings of the wretched victim. I remember hearing something about it at the time, but did not know for what a comparatively small oifence this fear- ful death had been awarded. The theft had pro- bably been committed on rich people who could afford to pay the authorities well for punishing the offender severely, everything being carried on by " bribery and corruption " from the highest to the lowest. If a criminal has money, he can always lessen his punishment or escape it altogether, by a present to the authorities, and a very common form of, what is called here "squeeze," is that when any friends go to see a prisoner, the latter is tortured in their sight in order to induce them to 128 Letters from China. give money to stop it. A still more extraordinary- method of extortion is sometimes resorted to, should any kind person take care of a sick neighbour, and the latter dies ; the good Samaritan who has be- friended him, will be attacked, robbed, and pos- sibly murdered, unless he pay down a good round sum to the relations of the deceased, who choose to consider that he has murdered him. LETTER XXIX. loth July 187- Never did letters arrive more opportunely for cheering purposes than yours did last night, when at nine o'clock, after having seen the departure of a very tired husband to go four miles to his ship against a strong tide, I had retired to endeavour to bury my woes in sleep, when most unexpectedly the English letters and newspapers were handed into my room. To bed I still went in order to place the mosquito curtains between me and my enemies, but my letters went with me, so the comfort of the arrangement was complete, and a few hours were much enlivened by air the home news. The cause of our present mental disturbance is that the training-ship is at last completed, and has Letters from, China. 129 been moved down far below the harbour prepara- tory to sailing the first favourable day. I shall be almost glad when she is fairly off. With so small a staff of European assistants the work of prepara- tion has been very trying — beginning at 4.30 in the morning, and with two hours' cessation in the middle of the day, ending only at 7.30 p.m. My hope, therefore, that the sea breezes may be bene- ficial to H.'s health, after so much exposure to the heat of the sun, reconciles me, in some measure, to our present fate. July ^ist. — H. has sailed. I went with him yesterday, and returned this morning in the steamer which towed the " Kien-Wei" to an island outside the river, where she will remain three or four days, and then sail for the North. She has a crew of 1 30, of whom only the gunner and boatswain are English, 30 are cadets, and the remainder are men collected from the Sanpans and Junks in the river. Not a dozen of them have ever been in an English-rigged ship before. The appearance of such a motley-looking crew, makes one tremble to think what the result would be, were bad weather to come on. My trust must indeed be placed in " The eternal Lord God who ruleth the raging of the sea." August \th. — A few lines from H. Much 130 Letters from China. tossing about going on, while lying at anchor for the last three days at Matsou, and much misery among the poor cadets, many of whom have been very sick, and very sorry for themselves in con- sequence. He is very anxious about the result of this first cruise, some of his cadets not being at all adapted, either mentally or physically, for a sea life, and already one of them has been de- clared guilty of feigning ill health, as a plea for staying at home. The perseverance of the youth, however, is worthy of a better cause, for directly the ship got outside the harbour, and away from medical supervision, he so evidently made up his mind " to lie down and die " that the Chinese Monitor of the school became alarmed, and en- treated that he .might be sent on shore in the pilot-boat, at which the authorities are very angry, and intend- charging the expense of his being landed, between the home-sick youth and his too compassionate superior. A good many of the lads who have been, as it were, draughted into the Training Ship, though glad to profit by the education afforded them by the English Naval School on shore, are taken from a class who look on any kind of physical exertion as a degradation. With regard to these, therefore, H. finds himself in a somewhat similar position to Letters from China. 131 the children of Israel, when they were told to make bricks without straw ! LETTER XXX. Foo-Chow, August \s^h. I am now staying with Mr and Mrs G., — they having kindly come to the Arsenal to escort me here last Wednesday. The unusually cool weather and charming breeze from the N.E. ended a few days ago in a Typhoon. We were at the time at a neighbour's house which stands in a more exposed situation than this. Doors and windows crashed in all directions, and the poor trees seemed about to be torn up by the roots ; a bit of glass from a window was driven nearly an inch into the rosewood case of the piano, which will give you some idea of the force of the wind, and yet I am told we only experienced the edge of the storm here. When the first tremendous gust came, one's breath seemed absolutely to be blown away, for truly it was a violent seasoning to the idea of a husband afloat on the wild waves. It was vain to think of returning home in our chairs, as they would at once have been ship- wrecked, so when the storm lulled we abandoned 132 Letters from China. them and our hats — made fast our chignons, by tying a handkerchief firmly over our heads, and succeeded, with some male assistance, in getting safely back. LETTER XXXI. Arsenal, ^th September, 187- A letter from H. dated Chefoo, and reporting " all well !" Now the good news has come, and we know the ship is safe, I find there have been all manner of evil rumours afloat regarding her — one story proceeding so far as to say that she had been seen " bottom upwards. " I have much reason to be grateful not only to our European neighbours, who have so carefully guarded my ears from reports which would have made me so unhappy, but also to the gentle consideration of my Chinese servants. It seems many of the wives of the crew had been to the house trying to see me about these reports, but one only escaped the vigilant watch kept over my peace of mind by my excellent " Boy " and " Amah. " She, poor woman, appeared suddenly in my room one ' morning while I was dressing, having effected her entrance by creeping under the half door. Letters from China. 133 She was in great distress, for she said, " one man have talkee me that ship go down, vny no can takee chow-chow, my too muchee sick. " Her anxiety thus simply expressed was very touching. I told her how improbable it was that "any man" could know such bad news, and it yet remain unknown to the authorities of the Arsenal, which assurance accompanied by the sympathy / so well could give, seemed to console her, especially as I invited her to pay me another visit after the next steamer from the north came in, that she might hear what intelligence it brought, so now my friend and I can rejoice together. You seem surprised at my having felt no alarm at the prospect of being left alone in this strange land : but the traits of character I have just given will show you that the " heathen Chinee " is capable of strong human affection, as well as much kindly feeling, and I have every reason to believe that the latter is the prevailing sentiment in my small household. Therefore with the faithful " Scuttle " to bark at the approach of any stranger — a " ladder of ropes " by which to escape if the house takes fire — a large bell with which to summon friends to the rescue in case of need, no safer abode than this could be desired. 134 Letters from China. LETTER XXXII. 24^/4 October 187- Three long anxious months had passed when on Sunday last about 4 p.m., various "chits" arrived to say the training ship was in sight. While thoughtful " Boy " armed himself with my opera glasses, I put on my hat and sped to the top of the hill, reaching my point of observation just in time to see the " Kien Wei " coming up the river under full sail. In a few minutes she closed her wings instantaneously as if by magic — anchored — swung round — a smart, well dressed crew scampered up her rigging — sails were furled — boats hoisted out — yards squared — all was done In nearly as little time as I take to write it. Then she l6oked as trim, orderly, and quiet, as if she was an English man-of-war that had been lying in port all day, except that she was surrounded by swarms of sanpans containing the grand- parents and parents — wives, sisters, and children of her crew, shouting and gesticulating in a manner that seems inherent in the Chinese, and perfectly irrepressible in moments of excitement. It was not till some hours later that her ,com- mander could come on shore, but you can imagine what a joyous meeting then took place. One Letters from China. 135 felt deeply thankful not only that amid all the storms of this unusually tempestuous autumn H. had been so favoured in weather, but that the voyage had been, in other respects, quite success- ful. LETTER XXXIII. November Zth, 187- We were present yesterday at a very curious scene — the thanksgiving service held by the crew of the training ship, in honour of her safe return. The invitation was sent us on a large sheet of bright red paper, and H. said it was most amusing to see how pleased the men were when they heard we should be present, and how eager to have everything " all proper, " which in their acceptation of the expression, means a liberal supply of "chow-chow." He had to explain to them that if " Missisy" went their acting must really be all proper, and of course there was some little difficulty in defining our meaning of the word. The result proved that he had been suc- cessful, and that they had attended to his behest, for Chinese plays are, generally speaking, too coarse for female eyes. That theatricals, should be mingled with acts 136 Letters from China. of worship seems extraordinary, yet so it is, so much so, that in their temples an altar occupies one side, and a stage the other. On our arrival we were ushered upstairs into a small gallery, part of which had been railed off to form a private box. In it were set chairs, a table covered with a nice white cloth, and not- withstanding H. having assured them we should require nothing either to eat or drink, they had pro- vided beer, wine, lemonade, and all kinds of beverages, for our refreshment, not to mention an ample supply of cigars for " Captain." By the time we ' arrived, what we should con- sider the religious part of the ceremony was over, it having begun at eight in the morning. We had ndt however missed much, as all " chin-chin josses " are much the same, and consist principally in burning quantities of mock money and joss sticks, the latter, made of sandal wood, created a pleasant perfume in the temple. They were at the feeding part of the ceremony when we made our appearance, and that, I have already told you, holds a very important' place on such occasions. Most astonishing it was to see the remarkable quantities of rice, fish,' and fowl, shovelled into their mouths with chopsticks, and the amazing rapidity with which it was done. Letters from China. 137 A sufficient amount of " Chow-Chow " having been consumed, the stage was soon cleared for their theatricals, in which all the female parts and most of the others were taken by boys. (N.B. — Women n ever act in Chjna). We had invited the Mandarin of the ship, and one of the cadets to come and interpret, but in spite of their endeavours to do so, I must acknowledge it was a little difficult to follow out the plot. The idea, I believe was, that the pig, monkey and other animals, had lost their masters, and accused the priest of stealing them, — a frightful want of confidence in the honesty of their ecclesiastics ! Then they had a fight with the fairies, who first turned them into birds, then into fish. Some of the dresses were really very pretty — others charmingly grotesque, especially the masks of the pig, and a large bird which always carried off the fairies' clothes in his huge beak when they went to bathe. H. says it was a very fair specimen of Chinese acting, which is almost always carried on in pantomime. The actofs performed their toilette at the back of the stage, the mask dresses being put on over their ordinary clothes, and when one set of performers had finished their part, they coolly doffed their upper garments, put them on their head, and quietly conveyed 138 Letters from China. them away before the spectators, by which you will see that the scenic effect was not quite that of Drury Lane ! We remained about an hour and a half, and were much pressed to stay longer, for the ''sing song" was to go on all day, but we had seen enough, and our presence was no doubt some little gdne to our hosts. Though I was the only woman present, and there were many people besides those connected with the ship, there was not an attempt to press on us, or any symptom of disrespect by word or look. , The expression on all the faces was that of good humour and satisfaction at our being there, mixed no doubt with a little wonder at the presence of a European woman on such an occa- jsion. I made the same remark when some time ago we visited the handsome Canton Joss House at Foo-Chow, while one of their festivals was going on. The crowd opened -to let us pass, and seemed most politely careful to avoid incommod- ing us in any way. LETTER XXXIV. May 187- Another winter and spring have gone by in much the same way as the previous ones — the Letters froTfi China. 139 Chinese have had their festivals, and various little amusements have taken place among the European community both here and at Foo- Chow ; but .there has been nothing very novel to relate. Towards the end of the year H. met with a serious accident, in falling and dislocating his shoulder. It remained in a very unsatisfac- tory state for some time, but is now all right again. He has also suffered a good deal from that most wretched malady, ague, but notwithstanding both that and the arm, has been busy as usual. We do not have a great deal of each other's society except when he comes on shore from Saturday till Monday, or still more frequently, when I spend those days on board our Marine Residence. H. was rather pleased the other day with the sharpness of one of his midshipmen, when he asked him whether there was any differ- ence in the amount of work done on board the Chinese gunboats on Sunday. He answered that there was not. H. remarked he did not see any signs of much being done on that day. " Oh, Sir, they are all Sundays on board the Chinese gunboats." " I suppose," says H., " you would like that to be the case here also." " Not at all, Sir, J don't like too many Sundays ; one in the week is quite enough." 140 Letters from China. One day, when he called to another of them to know what was going on at one of the guns, They're dreaming, Sir," was the sharp reply. I found H.'s cabin, with its capital warm stove, much the snuggest place in winter, when we had some unusually cold weather. Owing to the latter, there was very nearly a blank made in our domestic circle, for one morning on coming down to breakfast, I found the eldest monkey stiff and cold. All that day she lay wrapped up in a shawl near the fire, showing hardly any signs of life, except when from time to time I put a teaspoon- ful of brandy and water down her throat, which seemed to have a reviving influence for a few seconds. It was not till late in the evening tha,t she stretched out first one leg, and then another, and ultimatelycrept feebly forth from her covering. The following day she spent sitting by the fire- side, , with her head between her hands and a pained expression in her philosophical old face, betokening no doubt a severe headache as the result of the previous day's potations, but in the end she did credit to my treatment by getting quite well. Another expedition to some races took place a month or two ago, when I was staying at Foo- Chow, which gave me an opportunity of seeing Letters from China. 141 the native city, through whose curious, narrow streets we were obliged to pass en route to the race-course. We went, a cavalcade of nine chairs, one after the other, the effect of which was most amusing, and the way the coolies shout out to clear the way as they go through the crowded streets, reminded one of the gondoliers at Venice, before they shoot round the corners of their nar- row canals. In some places there really was hardly room for two chairs to pass, as besides the streets being narrow, they are rendered still more so by the shopkeepers having their goods displayed on boards outside their stores. The latter have no glass windows, and at night are closed by boards being put up ; but during the day are entirely open to the street, so in bad weather must be much ex- posed to the wind and rain. The whole merchan- dise of the city, and everything else, being carried by coolies, the bustle, noise, and crowd of so many human beings hurrying to and fro, was a curious scene, and as it was quite dark by the time we re- turned, the shops lighted up with gaily coloured lanterns added to the effect. My active bearers shot a-head so far of the others, that I several times found myself quite out of sight of the rest of the party, which, being in an open chair might have been trying to my nerves, had I not been too much 142 Letters from China. occupied with the novelty of all around me, to re- member my soHtary position. June 'jth. — The even tenour of our life has been enHvened lately by visits from several old friends, and two events of a more public character. First, came the English Admiral and suite, but he only remained at the anchorage for a day or two. Then the whole new French Legation arrived on their way to Pekin, and spent some days with the Director. Of course there were various enter- tainments on the occasion, and the launch of a ship, when every one appeared in full uniform in honour of the Minister Plenipotentiary, also a Promenade en chaises by all the party, through the workshops of the Arsenal ; but it has rained in a most perverse manner nearly all the time they were here, so I fear Mon. et Madame de G. must have carried away a very unfavorable im- - pression of this beautiful climate. Even the day of their arrival was wet, and as the Guard of Honour appointed to meet them was, as usual, behind time, a perfect Stampede of the Chinese army, such as I have formerly de- scribed, took place past our windows. That excitable nation were much " exercised " in their mmd two days ago, when a partial eclipse of the sun took place. Their idea, I believe, is Letters front China. 143 that the moon wishes to eat up the sun. As soon, therefore, as it begins to pass over the latter, they commence making an uproar on gongs and every species of noisy instrument, which continues till the eclipse is over, when they consider they have frightened the moon away. ■i)Oth July. — The note of preparation has sounded for our return home ; and during the last fortnight H. has been very busy winding up his affairs on board the ship. There was a most exciting scene the day he bid adieu to her, when all on board — some of the crew in tears — came crowding round him to testify their sorrow at his departure. Now that is over, our own domestic packing commences, which is not a pleasant prospect with the thermometer between 90° and 100° in the shade. When it is accomplished we shall adjourn to Foo-Chow, to see many kind friends there, and I hope soon the weather may become cool enough for us to see also something of the river scenery, which H. has hitherto been too much occupied for us to do. Our numerous family of pets, consisting of two monkeys, two birds, two cats, and two dogs — r44 Letters from China. have all been promised, what I trust may prove happy homes, with the exception of the two last, who are to accompany us for the present. LETTER XXXV. House Boat on River Min, 2ist Sept. 1 87-. The patience of two years and a half is now being rewarded, and we have at last started on the trip up the river, to which I have so long looked forward. I feared we should have left this without accomplishing it, for H. has been very unwell, and latterly has been confined to the house with inflammation in the eyes ; the weather also continued so hot, we could not have enjoyed ourselves. A week ^ago, however, the weather became cool, and the husband well; so on Monday we started, stopped at the Arsenal to pick up a friend whom we had invited to accompany us, and all this week have been floating about, first up one branch of the river and then up the other. How you would enjoy such a life as ours has been during these lovely days !' We are living on board a large and most comfortably fitted-up house-boat, with books, writing, and all our occupations with us for , Letters from China. 145 amusement during the heat of the day, and go out in the morning and evening to walk, shoot, &c. H. has the loan of a canoe, in. which he disports himself while his stronger companions walk. The peasants have been, as a general rule, very quiet and civil, though probably our friends in England, with the horrors of Tien-tsin so recently on their minds, would hardly have felt happy had they seen us a few mornings ago as we walked through a village followed by hundreds of the inhabitants. The name, too, they applied to us of Fanqui {anglice " foreign devil ") will not sound to you very reassuring! This- pretty soubriquet, with, which foreign visitors are often assailed, seems to be as indigenous in the mouth of the Chinese youth as is the ' vulgar rhyme beginning " Lady Pad " in that of the juvenile mining population of Scotland, nor does it appear to have any more dangerous , meaning. I must now return to the day on which we started, and give you a more detailed account of our voyage, beginning with the Yllng-foo branch of the river. We went on board the house-boat at 12 p.m. on Monday night, and on Tuesday morning awoke to find ourselves at the anchorage. K 146 Letters from China. All that day it literally poured, so that the mountains were hardly visible through the mist and rain, which completely prevented our being , aware that we were passing miles of orange groves on both sides of the river. We saw the remains of a stone bridge, which must at one time have united the island of Nantai with the mainland, a distance of about a mile ; then passed a number of house-boats at a place called Pee- kow, where there is tolerably good pheasant shooting in winter, and where also there is a sulphur spring to which invalids are frequently ordered for rheumatism. About five o'clock we arrived at the highest point to which house-boats can go, on account of the shallows and rapidity of the stream, and anchored for the night. In the evening the rain stopped ; our chairs were hoisted on to, the roof of our house, and we long sat gazing at the grotesquely-shaped hills, which looked dark and mysterious against the sky ; while Mr S. illuminated them and the little bay they surrounded, by sending off numerous crackers and rockets. Wednesday morning was lovely, so we were up betimes and started immediately after break- fast in one of the long, flat-bottomed, native boats — were tracked and pulled up the rapids about Letters from China. 147 two miles, then landed and proceeded on foot and in chairs. Discovering that no coolies had been brought to carry " chow-chow," (which term for food I hope you now all understand), a good deal of abuse was expended on the Boy for this careless omission. The small sum of twenty cents soon, however, procured bearers for our Tiffin, so then off we went, the villagers all turning out to inspect us, and I, as usual, monopolising most of their attention, a European woman being a sight only occasionally met with in such remote districts. My watch chain, and trinkets, excited rather more admiration than was quite agreeable, so I thought at first, it would have been more prudent to have left them at home. It did not appear, however, that the anxiety to touch and be allowed to examine them arose from any evil intent, but ,from simple curiosity. I have previously mentioned the fearful odours that prevail in China, rivalling even Cologne ! but never could olfactory nerves be put to a severer test than ours were on the present occa- sion. The cornbined smells of all the dirtiest villages in Scotland would hardly bear comparison with that which assailed us at the commencement of our walk. That trial being overcome, we pro- 148 Letters from China. ceeded on our way for about three or four miles, through well-cultivated fields of vegetables, rice, and sugar-cane — scrambled up a tolerably stepp hill and found ourselves at the monastery of Yling- foo.. In itself the monastery is nothing, being a mere wooden erection, containing some rather benevolent-looking brass images, which, from the expression of their faces, must, I should say, belong to a more amiable family of gods than Chinese Josses in general ; but the situation it occupies is most beautiful, the erection being jammed in, as it were, to a large niche, formed of gigantic rocks that look as if they might, in some convulsion of nature, come down and crush monastery, images, and everything else. One of the greatest curiosities of the place is the manner in which it is supplied with water from a spring on the top of the mountain, from which it trickles down a bamboo rope to the monastery. The vegetation all the way up is beautiful. Trees, to many of which my limited botanical knowledge can give no name, azaleas, a kind of single gardenia, orange and crimson liliums, gloxinias, ferns without end — these and many other beautiful plants, were what we saw around us growing like weeds. Letters from China. 149 The above list must not give you the idea that the hills in China are covered with specimen plants of the flowers I mention ! On the contrary, many of them in their uncultivated state really are much more like weeds, than near relations to the pampered, aristocratic looking denizens of our stoves and greenhouses. Ferns, of course, which grow here in the wildest luxuriance, are one of the exceptions to this remark. Altogether, we were much pleased with the scenery of Yting-foo, which, in spite of having heard it so highly lauded, did not disappoint us. But now it is time for tiffin, for which we were all quite ready, after our unwonted exertions. That being accomplished, and also on the part of some of the party, the inevitable pipe and post- tiffin siesta, we commenced the descent, and got back to the boat about four o'clock. We then took advantage of the ebbing tide to drop down the river, the scenery of which had only been visible through the mist on the previous day. It certainly is very lovely with its deep fringe of graceful bamboos on each side, and one hill rising above another in varied form, some of them very fantastic, and all clothed to the summit with trees and beautifully green 150 Letters from China. underwood. I thought with envy of the sketch- ing talents possessed by several of our relations, when each turn of the river brought us in sight of some new and charming view. Thursday morning we found ourselves, on awaking, at Yung-Kee, waiting the flood tide to take us up the other and larger branch of the river. Various excitements had taken place during the night, one of which had been caused by the arrival of a donation from a kind friend, to the Commissariat department. As no incident, how- ever trivial, can happen, without a Chinaman taking advantage of it to make as much noise as possible, no wonder the advent of a good fat goose, and various other delicacies, was hailed in a manner that greatly disturbed the peace of our slumbers. Having taken, in other supplies sent across the island from Foo-Chow to meet us, we sailed from Yung-Kee about eleven o'clock. The scenery was rather tame for the first hour or two — the banks generally low, with hills in the distance ; but a strong breeze carried us along at a good pace, till we anchored at sunset near a pretty village on the right bank, called Pah- Sah, where there is a long, narrow creek, and a Letters from China. 151 large jail surrounded by a high wall. We at once proceeded on shore, Boy, coolies, and dogs in attendance. Mr S. and I walked, while H. canoed up the pretty creek, till we came to a stone bridge, over which some people and cattle were passing. The architecture of the bridge, and the whole scene, reminded us vividly of that depicted on the old-fashioned willow china which was once so familiar to our youthful eyes. The long-tailed peasants were much amused by the canoe, which H. took close in-shore that they might examine it thoroughly. They were evidently greatly pleased by his doing so, and one man displayed what I suppose he considered his superior knowledge, by remarking when he saw it going very fast, that it went " all same steamer." , Next morning we were up at six, and had a charming walk. Mr S. took his gun, but saw little to shoot, except a golden Oriole, which he tried to kill, but failed signally in depriving it of anything but a few of its feathers, which were thus brought back as sole trophies of our morning's expedition. The country is highly cultivated, and the in- ihabitants a very quiet-looking race, so that our 152 Letters from China. precaution qf taking the Boy and some coolies, in case of accidents, was quite unnecessary. The trees are principally olive ; but not the same kind as those seen in Italy, the form of the tree, and also its foliage being quite different. A small fruit from which oil is made, sugar-canes, sweet potatoes, and rice, seem to be the principal productions of the soil. On our return to the boat, her bow was turned down the river, for the fair wind had brought us so far the previous day, we decided that it would not be prudent to proceed farther, as the day of our departure from Foo-Chow was drawing so near. Shortly after sailing we got aground, and could not move for two hours, till the rising tide came to our rescue. In the afternoon we again anchored and went on shore, accompanied by the dogs and usual escort of coolies. We found the trees had con- cealed a village of considerable^ size, so that we had landed in the middle of the large population to which I alluded in fhe beginning of my letter. Many of the younger members of the community invited themselves to join our walk, and seemed to enjoy it as much as we did ourselves, especially when H. and Mr S. shot some pigeons and other birds. Letters from China. 153 It was not, however, quite pleasant to find, on our return through the village, how greatly our self-appointed escort had increased, and that it continued getting more numerous every minute. A young Chinaman threw a bit of mud at me, not thinking he would be seen, but on turning round to his companions with a self-satisfied grin, he was surprised to find H. facing him, and to receive a smart tap on the back with the barrel of his gun. Though I believe nothing is more pleasing to the national vanity of the Chinese than to think they have insulted a foreigner without being discovered, yet it is questionable whether the manners of our own people would be superior to theirs, were a Chinese woman suddenly to appear walking quietly through one of our country villages, as I did through Hai-wan-chee. In spite, however, of philosophising on the sub- ject now, none of us seemed at the time to regret being near our boat when the incident of the mud took place, as it has often been from such trifling beginnings that disturbances have arisen. With the exception of the above rather dis- agreeable episode, our afternoon's excursion was one of the pleasantest we had. The general aspect of the country was so well cultivated and homelike, the foliage of the banian trees and olives 154 Letters from China. so luxuriant, and, last not least, it was such a pleasure to walk onqe more on a good broad path- way. These paths with grass on each side which looked most inviting for a canter, are made on the top of high embankments which divide each field, and are, we suppose, raised for the purpose of preventing all the fields being flooded at one time. During our walk I collected a bunch of most beautiful mauve flowers, a variety, I think, of the Hibiscus. On returning to the House Boat, we crossed the river and anchered at Wong-Tong, where the two branches of the Min join. In the morning we started at our usual early hour with guns and dogs, — found the inhabitants too busy collecting their olives and whampees to pay much attention to our proceedings, and returned to breakfast after a capital walk. We at once weighed anchor for our return down the river, and that evening had a farewell stroll, but not alas ! through such a pretty country as we had left behind. This fact added to regret at the prospect of our pleasant expedition coming to an end, had a rather depressing effect on the spirits of the party, so we very soon retired to rest, after giving orders to the boatman to sail as early in the Letters from China. 155 morning as light and tide would permit. Accord- ingly at 4 A.M. we_ were again under weigh, but the attempt to take a short cut ended as it ever does, and at 6 we found ourselves on a sand-bank, where we were soon left high and dry, without the least prospect of getting off for hours. This did not seem a lively way of spending the day, so after breakfast I was carried in my chair, and the gentlemen walked across the sand to where Mr S.'s House-Boat lay, and in it we proceeded to the Arsenal — had tiffin with our former semi- detached neighbour, * and then proceeded to pay several farewell visits. Meantime our stranded vessel was floated off its resting-place by the rising tide, and arrived in time for us to set sail again in the evening. We got back to Foo-Chow in the middle of the night — at what hour I know not, as we were asleep and did not come on shore till eight in the morning. Thus ended our very charming excursion on the river Min, the account of which I am finish- ing on shore, not having had much time for writ- ing during the latter part of it. 156 Letters from China. LETTER XXXVI. On Board the " Ningpo " Steamer, October 3^. We are now fairly adrift on the world, having left pretty Foo-Chow and our kind friends there this day week. We have spent a few days at Shanghai, and are now on our way to Ningpo, which H. knows well, having been stationed there for some time, twelve years ago. Anything more luxurious than this steamer, can hardly be imagined of one of its genus, and it gives me a high appreciation of American ideas of comfort. At this moment We are sitting in a most charming saloon on deck, to which not a soup9on of the ordinary odours of steamers can penetrate, and the cabins are large and airy, with only one berth in each, and the additional luxury of a bath-room attached to mine. I should be well pleased were I so fortunate as to have the same accommodation for some of the longer voyages we have in prospect. This is only a short one ; we sailed at five this afternoon and expect to reach our destination in the morning. I must now however go back to our departure from Foo-Chow, taking up the thread of discourse Letters from China. 157 where' I concluded my last letter on our return from our river expedition. We found that in our absence a very agreeable partner of the house where we were staying had arrived, and was going on by the same steamer to Shanghai. The de- parture of said steamer being delayed for a day, we were aill enabled to remain for a large pic-nic party to the Monastery, half-way up Kushan, and thus our last day at Foo-Chow was a most lively one. A perfect fleet of house-boats started early in the morning to convey us to the foot of the mountain, from which we proceeded in chairs to the porch of the Jdss House, where we were received by pretty Mrs G. and her -husband, the kind ■givers of the feast. Feast it certainly was, and not at all in the style of our home pic-nics, which are perhaps more romantic than comfortable for people of mature years. I do not think in fact, that we should dare suggest to the British servant the carrying materials for anything of the kind to such a distance, we should probably be dismissed on the spot ! But there we were, I shall not venture to say how many feet above the level of the river, and about fifty people sat down in the court of a Buddhist Monastery to a regular dejeuner A la fourchette, beginning with soup, and going through all the ordinary courses of such a repast. 158 Letters from China. Probably all the orders that had to be given to Mr G.'s major-domo, consisted of the information that a certain nunjber of guests were expected to dine at Kushan, and that every procurable delicacy should be provided for the occasion. It always has been and ever will remain a mystery to me, how these Chinamen contrive to carry all kinds of things in an apparently very promiscuous manner, without breaking them. The day was altogether a very pleasant one, with the exception of the disagreeable word " fare- well," with which we had to conclude our part of the proceedings. On that evening at 10 p.m. we were again en route for the Anchorage, as the steamer was to sail for Shanghai at daybreak. Our last parting was with " Scuttle's " black son " Kien," who was left behind — let us draw a veil over that touching scene as the dispersion of our pets is still a very tender subject. " Scuttle " of course accompanies us, she being an inseparable member of the family, who goes where we go, and would die of surprise were any other course pro- posed to her ! The voyage to Shanghai was simply detestable, not that the weather was bad, or the passage long, for we accomplished it in a day shorter than usual. But the sight and the smell of the opium- Letters from China. 159 smoking Chinese, through whom we had to pass to get to our cabins, made existence a burdeh. In spite of being so good a sailor, it was hardly- possible even for me, to preserve my character under such very trying circumstances, and this was only achieved by my remaining on deck. We watched the process of opium smoking one evening for a short time. It takes only about a minute to smoke one pipe, which the attendant refills, the smoke being allowed egress very slowly through the nostrils. The wretched creatures , who carry this habit to excess become very emaciated, and their eyes acquire a most disagree- ably vacant expression. In bad weather, the coast we passed along must be a very dangerous one. Besides the bold rugged-looking mainland, there are myriads of rocks and rocky islands jutting up from the sea in all directions. Fortunately, however, there are also some very snug little harbours, where the captains of the coasting- steamers can take refuge for the night in a storm. It will give you some idea of the size of Chinese rivers when I tell you we were thirty miles up the Yang-Tze-Kiang before I was aware that we were not still at sea. It is about forty- two miles i6o Letters from China. I broad, much wider, as an American on board acknowledged, than the Mississippi. At Woosung, where a fleet of gaily painted war-junks was lying, we turned into the smaller river on which Shanghai is situated. Its banks are flat and un- interesting, very unlike those of the beautiful picturesque Min. At three p.m. on Sunday we arrived at Shang- hai, very thankful to be rid of all the bad smells of the " Dragon." We took up our abode at the Astor House, which is very comfortable, with a tolerable table d'hote, and not as expensive as we expected an Eastern hotel to be. The town is very European in appearance, and it seemed quite curious to see people driving about, and nice wide streets free from all bouquet de Chine. The wheel -barrows are most droll-looking vehicles — " licensed to carry two passengers," but they do not .seem to be much used by Europeans except by gentlemen at night. The Chinese ladies evidently like driving, as we have seen several carriages full of them. We dined at the house bf Messrs J. M. & Co., one evening, and Mr J., having kindly offered H, the use of his pony, another was got for me, and we took a long ride into the country. The land is divided into small farms, which have descended Letters from China. ' i6i from father to son , for many generations. The houses generally stand in the midst of a clump of trees, and are surrounded by a few fields. Off these they get four crops per annum, of which wheat and cotton are the most valuable. Of the latter there is a great deal grown round Shanghai. H. visited the arsenal, which is carried on, on a different and less expensive system than that at Foo-Chow, there being only seven or eight Europeans in the whole establishment. He was much pleased with a large frigate they have just built, and much amused to find himself accosted as her future commander. There seemed, in fact, some difficulty in persuading the public that such was not the case. The report no doubt arose from the general belief, that the Chinese have some difficulty in knowing what to do with their vessels after they have built them, and will ultimately require to have a European naval man to teach them. We had " tiffin " one day with an American, who told me a story which is worthy of Dean Ramsay's collection, and shows that old servants in China have much the same tendency as the old-fashioned Scotchman who, when his master told him they must part, asked the latter " where 1 62 Letters from China. he was going ! " When the wife of the gentle- man I speak of returned to America, he endea- voured to dismiss an ancient amah who had been long in their service. She, with great surprise answered, " What side my go ? have been with massa fourteen years ; my too muchee old go other family ; who wash massa handkerchiefs and fix his clothes ? No, no ; my no can do ! " — which argument seerped so conclusive, there she remains, her master finding it utterly impossible to get rid of her. Oct. \th. — Arrived at Ningpo at seven a.m., and were very kindly received by Mr W. H. we'nt off" to see an old friend of his who had just come from Hangchow, and arrange with him to accompany us over the city in the afternoon— which accordingly he did. We went first to a very handsome Buddhist temple, the stone pillars of which, said to have come from Foo-Chow, are carved in the most elaborate manner, and the other decorations are also very striking. It was built by the Foo-Chow people for theFok- kien residents at Ningpo, and, like other Chinese temples, is used as a theatre as well as a place of worship. Along the galleries are boxes for the better classes to occupy, when theatricals take place. Letters from China. . 163 As in all buildings of the kind, there are several bridges over nothing, the Chinese having some superstition about these being a safeguard to preserve the balance of power between the different elements, fire, air, &c. So strong is this idea, that in all towns, one meets with bridges in situations of no apparent use ; and on asking a Chinamen why they are there, the certain answer is " Fung-Sui," in which term every imaginable and «mmaginable superstition is concentrated. They have also other superstitions regarding the orthodox corners of the house for the doors, windows, &c., to be placed, each corner being named after some animal, such as the white tiger or red lion ; and these animals are supposed to be offended should the doors or windows be put in the wrong place. From the Fokkien temple we went to an ancient padoga, said to be a thousand years old, and ascended to the top, followed by the enter- prising " Scuttle," who was evidently much dis- gusted to find that, after with difficulty scramb- ling up the broken staircase, all she had to do was to turn and with still greater struggles scramble down again. The view from the top did not reward us for our trouble, the distance was so hazy. 164 Letters from China. We then visited the Roman Catholic cathedral, which would be a handsome church were it not for the bad coloured glass in the windows ; after- wards walked on the city walls, which were about twenty feet broad. At a cottage door an old woman was crying bitterly, and when we stopped to ask what was wrong, an old man made his appearance, and told us they had just lost a little boy six years old, winding up the story of his woes in true China fashion by asking for a " ctimskaw." It struck me they were rather an ancient^looking couple to have so young a child ; however, one has heard similar melancholy tales in other places besides the walls of Ningpo. Our day's sight-seeing concluded by having tea with the brother and sister-in-law of our agree- able cicerone ; and on our return to Mr W.'s, we found a large party assembled to meet us. October ^th. — Went a tour of the wood-carvers in the morning, and saw some beautiful speci- mens, but very few for sale, and all that were so, very expensive. One man, who showed us the de- signs for the furniture to be sent to the Vienna Exhibition, has monopolised all the best work- men, and asks what prices he lik^s. Indeed it is hardly possible to get anything from him with- out ordering it, and then you cannot have it for Letters from China. 165 months. At all the other shops, the carving looks so rough and common, it is not worth buying. We " tiffined " with Colonel C. who lives in a very quaint abode — an old temple having been turned into a barracks. Such is the practical nature of the Chinese, they never like to waste any space, and Mr M. says he does not know how he will preserve his new church at Hangchow from secular purposes, for it being an agricultural district, the people are sure to think the church a capital place for keeping their ploughs, &c. His position there, cannot, I think, be altogether comfortable, ^though having his heart in the mission work, he does not seem anxious about his own safety. He acknowledged, . however, that the principal security for himself and family, lies in the people not being able to agree among themselves as to the best means of putting them to death, and that if they ever should make up their minds on the subject, escape would be next to impossible. We spent a pleasant afternoon with Colonel C. who commands the Chinese disciplined force, and after seeing all the curiosities of his singular dwelling, he took us to another large temple — this time a Confucian one, and more remarkable for its size, and the extent of ground it covers, 1 66 Letters from China. than anything else. There is evidently no care bestowed on keeping it in repair, all it is used for being, that at certain seasons of the year, people come to offer sacrifices in honour of their great moralist, for whose principles there is a universal and profound respect, though it is not thought necessary to carry them into practice ! On these sacrificial occasions no priests officiate, the people offer sacrifices themselves. There are smaller altars to the memory of the distinguished followers and contemporaries of Confucius, as well as in an outer court, tablets to that of his illustrious disciples in after-ages. Also many tablets to his own memory, presented by different people, and engraved with some of his moral precepts. A curious account was given us of the bribery and corruption practised in the celestial empire — how the Tautais of the different districts, and all the highest Mandarins, have to buy their rank and promotion, sometimes expending as much as 40,000 taels on the minister and all his con- stituents, down to the very chair coolies. Of course he in turn, " squeezes " those he is put to rule over, and so the system of squeeze circulates through all classes. We called on Miss L., but she being out, we Letters from China. 167 did not see the school, only a few of her pupils, who ran away like frightened rabbits when they saw us — finding, however, that we were perfectly harmless, they soon regained sufficient courage to come and have a good look at us.* In the evening we had a rechauffd of the previous day's dinner-party, with two additions, one of whom I found had come to the East by the same steamer that I did. Oct. 6th. — To church in the morning — congre- gation only thirteen in number. There was no music except two hymns — the clergyman acting as precentor, and " setting up " the tunes. At four o'clock we sailed again for Shanghai. The scenery on the river is rather pretty, — ^green valleys bounded by distant hills till we got near the entrance, where it is of a rougher, wilder type of beauty, — two high hills on each side, one of them defended by a fort, and in the middle of the channel a great rock on which there is a lighthouse. On arriving at Shanghai, we found the steamer was not to sail for Japan till three days later than we expected. Had we known this, we might have accepted our host's kind invitation to remain a few days longer, and gone some of the pretty expeditions into the country round Ningpo. Of * See Note A. 1 68 ' Letters from China. these, that to the snowy valley is said to be the most beautiful, but a good many days are required for the excursion. LETTER XX XVII. S.S. Costa Rica, idth Oct. 187-. We left Shanghai at 7 a.m. on the 12th, and an hour thereafter found ourselves at a standstill on the bar at Woo-sung. In spite of the size of their rivers, the Chinese have an inconvenient prejudice against dredging, which makes accidents of the kind very frequent. On the present occasion we had the satisfaction of seeing another large steamer in the same pre- dicament ; and it was not till eight in the evening that the tide came to our release. At one yesterday morning we sailed into the harbour at Nagasaki, which, even by the " dim religious light " of the moon, was " beautiful exceedingly." It is surrounded by an amphi- theatre of hills, wooded almost to the water's edge ; and with the sun shining brightly on all the men-of-war and ' merchant ships lying at anchor, one could hardly imagine a prettier, or gayer scene. Letters from China. 169 I was grieved to depart without going on shore, but the heat was too great, and our time too short, for much enjoyment, even had we been able to do so. I therefore had to be satisfied with admiring the view from the deck of the steamer, while we chatted with the various sailor friends who came on board to see us. The number of passengers had there, a l^rge accession of Japanese, and a very curious-looking people they are. I do not as yet like their appearance so much as that of the Chinese. The married women, having their teeth blackened, look hideous ; and I should think the object in view must be thoroughly attained thereby — ^viz., that of preventing all admiration from flirting cavaliers. Almost all the men have spoilt their national dress by wearing some piece of European attire, such as a wide-awake hat, or large boots. One boy evidently thinks himself very smart. He has on tight-fitting white flannel trousers, over which' he has put on boots, and a short cut-away coat gives him altogether a very " horsey " appearance. This morning we were up betimes in order to see the straits, at the entrance of what is called the " Inland Sea." Found we had been much 1 70 Letters from Japan. too active, as we did not reach them till two hours later, however, the beauty of the scenery- rewarded us for a little loss of sleep. Just within the straits we passed Simonosaki, after which the sea opened out so wide, land was only visible in the distance, till the afternoon, when we again passed numerous islands. October i^th. — Yesterday we arrived at H logo, or Kobe — the former being the name of the Japanese town — the latter of the European Settlement. This morning we walked to a waterfall, at a little distance from the town. There was not much water, but the situation of the fall is very picturesque, and from the height to which we had to climb, we had an excellent view of the surrounding well-cultivated country. We had intended to ride in the afternoon, but the sun was too hot early in the day, and being told that five o'clock was the hour of departure, we merely took a stroll through the town. The European settlement is well built, with a wide " bund " along the harbour, and the other streets broad and clean. Many pretty-looking houses are situated on the hills behind, and there are apparently good roads and pathways in all directions. Though not by any means so lovely or so fascinating at Letters from Japan. 171 first sight as Nagasaki, it may possibly be a pleasanter residence, from being less confined, and possessed of more outlets for driving and riding. The cxirious little native carriages called Gin-rik- sha are drawn by men, at the rate of from five to six miles an hour. In the Japanese town, the streets are much wider and cleaner than those in Chinese cities. There is also a marked and most pleasing con- trast in the cleanliness of their houses. So fearful are they of the floor being dirtied, they always take off their shoes before entering them. Such care is very necessary, for they have neither bed, chairs, nor tables, so the floor which is generally covered with nice clean matting, has to perform the duties of all these articles of furniture. In the morning we had passed through a temple where there was evidently some f(§te going on, and in the afternoon we met a great wooden car filled with gaily-dressed people. This grotesquely-carved vehicle, which reminded one of the stories of Juggernaut, was dragged along principally by crowds of children. We were told there had been some repairs going on in the temple we had seen in the rhorning, which had necessitated the removal of an image of its presiding goddess, and the fete was in honour of 172 Letters from Japan. her return to her usual abode. So many children decked out in bright colours, gave the streets a very gay aspect, the wearers of the holiday attire too, are a much livelier-looking race than the juvenile celestials, who are the gravest little mortals I ever saw. It was amusing to observe the jaunty air of those of the grown-up population, who were the happy possessors of any bit of European dress. Thfey certainly considered it quite entitled them to a bowing acquaintance with us ! However, they seem really to be a polite nation, and this even among the lower classes, who bow to each other in the most ceremonious and respectful manner. When one man approaches another, the two stop when some yards apart, make a sudden, jerky, very low bow, say a word or two, and then pass on with the same diving style of salutation. Their dress seems to vary with their occupa- tion. Some wear very little clothing of any kind — others a garment much resembling a dressing- gown, while a good many of those we saw were clad in very tight black lower integuments, with a tunic, also black, and on their back a number of white hieroglyphics denoting, I believe, the name and occupation of their master. This black cos- tume and the curious horn-like way they dress the Letters from Japan. 173 hair, makes the latter class of the community look as if they had recently ascended from the lower regions ! The women's dress, in which there is not much variety, you must have often seen in pictures, so I need hardly describe it. In the original it is picturesque, but must be most uncomfortable from the extreme narrowness of the petticoat, which causes great difficulty in walking ; this, added to the loose kind of pattens they wear on their feet, obliges them to shuffle along with that Grecian bend which is said to be the origin of a somewhat similar fashion among nations who ought to know better than to distort their natural gait. 20th. — Behold us at the International Hotel, Yokohama, having just landed under a leaden sky and torrent of rain. First impressions of this part of Japan decidedly unfavourable ! LETTER XXXVIII. Yokohama, 30M October. The close of my last letter was doubtless in keeping with the ungenial state of the external world on the day when we arrived here. 174' Letters from Japan. That evening, however, under the influence of a warm fire, and our friend C. D.'s cheerful society, our spirits began to revive^ and the mental bar- ometers rose at once to " Set Fair " when the fol- lowing morning we found a bright sun pouring its rays into our before-tirne rather dreary-looking saloon. People tell us we have chosen a very bad time of year for our visit, the weather being gene- rally very uncertain at this season — a statement which our short experience has already proved to be most correct, as some days are like summer, while others are " cold, and dark, and dreary." Yokohama seems to be a great centre point for the mails from different directions to meet, nor has the enterprising Mr. Cook failed to penetrate to even this far distant corner of the globe. A large party of his excursionists arrived from San Francisco a few days ago, and are living in this hotel. Our cosmopolitan dog Scuttle sX. once made acquaintance with them all, for having established herself as a kind of " Institution " in the public room, she goes round to the different tables, chin- chinning graciously to all the new arrivals, for which piece of politeness the wily old quadruped , soon discovered she would be duly rewarded. Most of the European residents live at some Letters 'from yapan. 175 distance from the town, on a hill called the Bluff, and in pretty detached villas, which must com- mand a very extensive view. Some friends whom H. knew, when here five years ago, came to see us, and our old friend Dr V. has kindly acted as cicerone on several excursions. One day he took me a long walk into the country, and then, for the first time, I saw the Camellia yaponica growing in the woods like any ordinary forest tree, and covered with blossom — not, of course, in its wild state, equal to our wax-like flowers, but luxuriant in quantity if not in quality. It is too late in the season for many other flowers, so we shall not see the famed liliums of Japan in bloom, but the endless variety of beautiful evergreens prevent the gardens having a very wintry aspect. The villages we passed through, were wonder- fully clean considering the evident poverty of the inhabitants, and still more wonderfully free from bad smells, a virtue one cannot fail to remark after a residence in China. A Japanese cemetery we visited was so full of tombstones, we thought it most probably belonged to the sect who are economical of space and burn their relatives. On each tombstone there were two small holes and one large one — the former to hold bamboos filled 176 Letters from Japan. with water, in which were placed bouquets of flowers and evergreens, while the larger one is in- tended to contain rice for the occupant of the grave on fete days. Except that they have graveyards, and do not bury their dead promiscuously all over the country, the Japanese seem to treat their deceased relations in much the same manner as the Chinese, for though one sect "cremate" and the other do not, all unite in the respect paid to their ancestors. As in China, there are certain seasons of the year more especially set apart for feasts in honour of the dead. On these occasions the spirits of the departed are supposed to be present, and when all the rites are concluded, they are sent off again to the place whence they came in little boats neatly modelled in straw, in which are put rice, water, and a small lamp to light them on their way. Numbers of these little boats may be seen on the " Inland Sea" at some periods of the year. Economy of space does not prevail in any other respect, saving that of their places of interment, for the streets are all wide, even those in the native city, and such is the march of intellect, that they are lighted with gas, and have pillar letter- posts in all directions. Letters from yapan. i77 The Mikado is so anxious to break down all old customs, he has begun to take every oppor- tunity of showing his hitherto sacred person in public. About a fortnight ago he opened the railway from this to Yedo, and on the approaching visit of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, intends to show himself again, so no doubt we shall have the pleasure of seeing him. It seemed quite a novel sensation, finding ourselves once more travelling by rail, when, a few days ago, we paid our first visit to Yedo. We started at 1 1 a.m., accompanied by Dr V., and found the train full of Japanese. They evidently now highly appreciate their new mode of locomotion, but we hear that the first day it was opened, though crowds assembled to see it, none of them would venture to travel by it. There are only three stations between Yokohama and Yedo, and the journey occupies about an hour. Passing through the well-cultivated country, yellow fields of ripe grain, large woods, and cottages half hidden among clumps of fine trees, we might almost have imagined ourselves in Eng- land. Arrived at our destination we all got into Ginrikshas, each drawn by two men, one in front of the other, and the pace at which our human M 178 Letters from Japan. tandems took us over the very rough streets did, I assure you, necessitate a very firm seat, more especially at the corners round which they swung with a speed and sharpness which each time threatened to upset carriages and occupants. My lively young leader was evidently much diverted by the fits of laughter caused by this singular mode of progression, and of course went all the faster in consequence. Having resuscitated exhausted nature at a tolerably good Japanese restaurant, we went to the Marine School — a very imposing-looking edifice with plenty of space around it, but H. not finding the man he wished to see, off we dashfed in our three carriages to the quarter of the town called Shiba, where the tombs of the Tycoons are situated. I believe you will instantly exclaim, who and what are the Tycoons ? at least those will do so who know as little about them as I did, before coming to this Eastern hemisphere. Let me therefore at once, and in few words enlighten your minds on the subject. Before the last revolution which took place in 1867, the Tycoons were the hereditary prime ministers, in fact the outward and visible rulers who carried on the government, and were all powerful in the Empire, while the Mikado or real Letters from yapan. 179 Emperor, was considered too sacred a person for mortal eyes to look on. The landlady of our hotel told me that only three years ago, when he was to pass through Yokohama, all the inhabit- ants had orders to remain within doors. That state of affairs is now all changed ; the Mikado, with a council of ministers to assist him, governs his own Empire, and that apparently in a very despotic manner. The magnificent tombs in which the Tycoons and their wives are laid is all therefore, that now remains of their departed greatness. They are situated in beautiful grounds amidst ancient trees and evergreens, and are approached through an avenue of handsome stone lanterns. We were admitted into them by a most polite monk or priest, who amiably permitted us to enter without taking off our boots — a privilege he would not have granted to any of his countrymen. The brilliant painting and gilding with which the tombs are decorated, reminded one of the repre- sentation of the Alhambra, at Sydenham, and the carving, bronze, and lacquer work gave a mavel- lous impression of the perfection to which the Japanese have carried these arts. After spending some time in examining all these wonderful decorations, we paid a visit to a lively little French woman, whose husband has some appointment i8o Letters from Japan. under government. They live in a very curious and primitive abode belonging to a Japanese Prince, 2xA glazed, like other houses of the country, with paper. Our next and much longer expedition, was to Yukoska, where there is an arsenal under French direction, on much the same principle as that at Foo-Chow, except that it seems to be carried on in a less pretentious and more economical way. We remained there over a day, and were most kindly treated by the Director and other officials;' but, alas! it would rain, almost without ceasing, from the evening we arrived till the time we left, so it was only during a few very lucid intervals, we had an opportunity of seeing what a pretty situation the arsenal occupies — nestled among hills covered with trees "coming close down to the very works, and z. perfect little harbour, just large enough for what is required, and nearly land- locked. It .is a most retired spot, and must, we think, be rather dull as a residence, notwithstand- ing its great natural beauty. Mon. V. kindly sent his largest steamer back with us, which enabled us to accomplish our return voyage most comfortably. Letters from Japan. i8i LETTER XXXIX. <)th November. I have now to record a second visit to Yedo, when C. D. acted as guide and interpreter. Without the latter it is by no means easy to get on, as " Pidgin EngHsh " is of Httle use, even with domestic servants, in Japan, and none what- ever with the general population. Some little knowledge of the language is therefore absolutely necessary for those who reside in the country, though mere visitors like ourselves find a very few words go a long way. Were we remaining here, I should think it no hardship to be obliged to learn Japanese ; it is very easy, and a soft, musical language, not very unlike Italian in the pronunciation of some words. And now to return to our Yedo expedition. We thought this time, we should try the effect of being drawn by quadrupeds instead of bipeds. Accordingly we ascended into a high vehicle of the genus break, drawn by two horses, and in it were jolted over the streets till one felt quite imbecile, bodily and mentally ; saw the temple at Asakusa, the largest in Yedo, very handsome, and gorgeously decorated with gold lacquer. A number of people were doing their "joss pidgin," i82 Letters from, yapan. and throwing alms into a trough with a grating over it, in front of the altar : the priests going through the usual ceremonies, which resemble so much those of the Romish Church. In the extensive garden and grounds which surround the temple, we saw most curious speci- mens of the national skill in training plants (some of them not more than from one to two feet high) to assume the appearance of ancient trees. There were also some most grotesque wooden figures clothed in garments of chrysanthemum, and placed in all sorts of ridiculous attitudes. One, for instance, represented a boy tumbling head over heels, the different parts of his dress being formed by the foliage and flowers of different colours : the trousers brown or green, the coat yellow, and the waistcoat white. A steani engine and railway carriage, nearly as large as real ones, were most perfectly modelled in the same way. The body of the carriage was green ; yellow flowers formed the foot-board ; the wheels were brown, and the windows some other colour. How these growing plants can be trained in such a marvellous manner baffles my compre- hension ; but the artists must not only possess skilful hands but infinite patience, as well as most grotesque imaginations. Letters from Japan. 183 In the same grounds there was also a large collection of birds and monkeys belonging to the temple. Of these the stork is considered the most sacred bird in Japan, and is to be seen represented on most of their lacquer-work. Being one of their numerous fete days, the road to the temple was lined with gaily-decorated booths, where they were selling toys and all kinds of odds and ends, which looked more attractive in the distance than on closer inspec- tion. Again we mounted our exalted carriage, but had not gone far when a sudden jerk and the de^ scent of one corner of our chariot to the ground, informed us that a wheel had come off, so out we scrambled amidst a large, and let us hope, sympa- thising crowd. Leaving our wrecked vehicle, we betook ourselves to Ginrikshas which I, at least, much prefer to our experience of Yedo carriages, as in them there is some novelty and amusement to make up for the unmerciful rattling to which one's bones are, in either case, subjected. En roitte to the station we passed through numerous fortifications, and over two moats which surround the castle, but supposing ourselves rather late for the train, we did not take time to visit the latter. The streets we drove through on this second 184 Letters from Japan. expedition were much more crowded and busier- looking than any we had seen before. The ex- tent of the town is immense — indeed it is said to cover moreground than any town in the world ex- cept London, but many parts of it are quite de- serted, whole streets being occupied by low, barracky-lookihg houses which were formerly occupied b)' the retainers of the different Daimios or Princes, when they visited Yedo. Under the Mikado regime, these princes are now requested to stay in the country, so their followers have no longer an opportunity of fighting each other, as they did in these " good old days " not long gone bye, 'for when H. was here before, almost every man carried two swords. We have seen a few who still do so, some of them very wild-looking fellows, but the custom has, to a great extent been given up, and many of the poorer Yaconins have turned their swords. into shoe ,brushes, and become servants in the households of the Euro- pean residents. Some of the women we saw were rather pretty, in a pink and white doll style, but their faces were covered with flour or powder, and they gaped at us with an expression of face so utterly idiotic, I cannot understand how some people admire them so much. Letters from yapan. 185 Fusi-yama, the great mountain of Japan, has been so obliging as to show the top of his peak to us on various occasions lately — a favour his cloud- capped majesty does not always accord to visitors. It is 13,000 feet high, and its conical peak is con- stantly covered with snow, except during the months of July and August. The Japanese are so proud of their truly grand-looking mountain, they manage to introduce it, like the sacred stork, on almost all their lacquer ware. There was a shock of an earthquake two evenings ago, but it must have been very slight, as it did not awake us, though we were only slumbering quietly in our chairs after a long day's expedition. LETTER XL. idth November. Hearing that the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia was to start for Yedo at 1 1 a.m. and that, of course, there would be a great assemblage of Japanese of all ranks on the occasion, Ginrikshas were ordered, and off we went to the station to find ourselves on arriving there, an hour too soon. The time, how- ever, was not lost, for we were well amused in 1 86 Letters from yapan. watching the arrival of all the authorities, and the proceedings of a regiment of cavalry which was drawn up as a guard of honour. Dressed in Euro- pean clothes, and with their brown faces and slouch- ing gait, the effect, as we looked along the line, was much that of a regiment of well-grown mon- keys, though perhaps those animals were still better represented by the coachmen who drove the royal carriages (the latter from Lawrie & Co.) and who were clad in English liveries much too large for any of the wearers.. The hats with their cockades quite extinguished the poor little people. One of the officials, a very intelligent-looking man, was introduced to us ; he had been in England and spoke English perfectly. He and itiany others present, wore full court dress — long, loose robes of different colours, and trimmed with white — a broad band of white wa's also round their black, fool's-cap-looking head-dresses, which made them appear as if they had recently come out of hospital, or at all events were suffering from severe colds in the head. Even they, men of good position, spoiled the effect of their costume by wearing European boots. The state railway carriage is very handsome, without being too gorgeous, and has a chrysan- Letters from Japan. 187 themum, the crest of the Mikado, English fashion, on the panels. 19//^. — Went with some American friends to a musical entertainment, at the house of the Governor of Yokohama. On our arrival, we were met at the door by the lady of the house, a very pretty little person with a sweet, gentle voice and manner. As neither she nor her husband can speak English, conversation was carried on under difficulties, Mr L. acting as interpreter. , We were taken up two steep flights of stairs into an upper chamber, which was furnished like a European room with carpet and chairs, the walls hung with English pictures, including prints of the Queen and Prince Consort. Presently the three musicians arrived, and took their places on the floor in the middle of the room. The principal instrument calledthe "Kioto" is about five feet long, and has about a dozen strings — the two others are respectively like a primitive guitar, and violin. Having tuned, or rather unt\ys\t.d. their instru- ments, the performance began, the musicians accompanying themselves in a low monoton- ous whine through their noses. They played four long pieces, in not one of which was it i88 Letters from y apan. possible to detect the smallest attempt at any- air, but the Kioto produced some very sweet notes. The general effect was extremely mono- tonous, and calculated to have a very soporific effect, as was proved by one of the party falling fast asleep in his chair — an example which, after a long ride, I had some difficulty in not following. The musical performance being over, refresh- ments were brought in. A small, square, red table the height of a stool, was placed in front of each person, on it was a small dish containing a promiscuous-looking mess of concentrated fish, stewed chestnuts, and I know not what besides. A knife and fork were placed on each table, but the Governor said they were only intended for ornament, as, in order to have correct personal experience of Japanese manners and customs, we ought to use the chopsticks which were also pro- vided, and sit on our knees. Accordingly, down we all squatted, and a most amusing scene it was to look round the room, and observe the unusual position of so many respectable Britons. Our feeble efforts to handle chopsticks in an efficient manner, evidently afforded much amusement to our host and hostess ; the former said it consoled him in some measure for the difficulty he had often found in European houses, when he saw Letters from, yapan. 189 us in a similar dilemma, with regard to his own national implements. The food was horrid, and most of us merely tasted it, in which case, according to the manners of the country, all we left ought to have been sent to us next day, which ceremony, however, our enlightened entertainer spared us. Mr M. in his great politeness ate almost all that was put before him, and as might be expected, was very ill in consequence. We had Champagne to drink, and also saki, the wine of the country made from rice, which the Japanese drink hot, but they allowed us to have it cold. It was handed round in very small cups, and even when taken cold is not at all good, but tastes rather like very attenu- ated amontillado. Mr M. having made polite speeches on behalf of the party, which Mr. Governor reciprocated, we bid adieu to him and his nice little wife, who did the honours most gracefully, even though they had to be enacted principally in P&ntomime. LETTER XL I. loth November. A lovely morning, so we started at 8 a.m. accompanied by two friends to ride to Dai-butsz, a I go Letters from, Japan. distance of eighteen miles, through scenery so beautiful that one part of it is called " the plains of heaven, " and truly I doubt whether the human mind could picture to itself a fairer scene. The bright blue sea with its picturesque inlets on the one side, while on the other an undulating, richly wooded country, varied by the red autumnal tints of the maple, stretches away as far as the eye can reach, till the majestic Fusi-yama rises in the distance to cut the clear sky with its snowy peak. What a long sentence I have written ! You must however excuse my becoming ecstatic, as I really think it was the loveliest ride I ever had, and no one can have an idea of the beauty of the country, who travels only by the carriage roads. 5^ven more charming than the extensive view from the high ground, were the exquisite little bits which we came to at almost every turn, as we trotted cheerily along the narrow pathways. In some places these bridle paths are so narrow as to necessitate single file, and a little dangerous occasionally, where the numerous ditches are crossed by very untrustworthy wooden bridges. One of these gave way as H. was crossing it, causing his pony to fall ; however he threw himself off, and the pony extricated its legs in some marvellous manner, so no damage was done. Letters from Japan. 191 About ten rtiiles from Yokohama we passed a pretty village called Kanasawa, where I should have much liked to stay, but we had still a long way to go and no time to diverge from the main object of the expedition, which was to see the great bronze statue of Dai-butsz. We arrived at our destination about eleven o'clock, and at once paid our respects to the colossal, but very amiable- looking God of Benevolence. When I mention that his height is fifty feet, and circumference of the body 98, you can imagine the relative proportion of his features, and that there is ample space within (he is entered by a door) for the names of all visitors to be inscribed. Having done due honour to our large friend, we adjourned to an old temple which contained another enormous image ; but it was not in such good repair as the Japanese generally keep their places of worship. A very curious, and not very pretty custom they have, is to try and keep away evil spirits by chewing paper and spitting it at their images. This accounts for the untidy appearance of some large images which we saw bespattered all over, with these balls of half masticated paper. The small pieces of paper which are sold for this purpose, have on them the likeness of some god or goddess and some 192 Letters from Japan. written characters, probably either a prayer or a malediction. On getting back to the tea-house, where we were to rest ourselves and our steeds, we were not sorry to find that the Bettos had arrived with a goodly supply of food, for which we were all quite ready. These " Bettos," or horse-boys, think nothing of running forty or fifty miles. When you leave home, you simply tell them where you are going, and it is their business to be there at the appointed time : they Very likely know some shorter way across the hills, and are there before you. Captain H.'s man, however, accompanied us all the way, going along at a swinging trot, so was always at hand to be of use if wanted. I have said before that there is much variety in the male costume, and may here mention that the attire of the Bettos is peculiarly well suited to their active life, many of them having little more to carry than the most elaborate armour of tatooing. After " tiffin " we went to see a temple where all the Norimons and swords are kept, belonging to a distinguished family whose name I forgeL Many of the swords were very handsome, the Japanese evidently expending more on them than Letters from Japan. 193 on any other part of their apparel. The " Nori- mon " is a very uncomfortable kind of palanquin, used by the aristocratic classes. It has no raised seat, so the occupant sits on the floor, without room fully to extend his limbs. It is only a slight degree less wretched than the cango used by the common people, in which the knees must nearly approach a level with the nose ; and in this uneasy attitude the unfortunate traveller is subjected to any jerking movement a rough road or his bearers, may inflict. Their " Norimons," like their swords, are sometimes very handsome. We returned home by the " Tokaido," passing through Kamakura, the most ancient capital of Japan, and leaving temples on all sides unvisited ; but daylight and physical strength have their limits, so we could do no more. The ponies, when their heads were turned homeward, became so lively, and pulled so hard, the pace was at times rather dangerous to the inhabitants of the thickly-populated villages ; notwithstanding which, we got- back about 5.30 without damage to ourselves or others, and much satisfied with our day's work. The " Tokaido " is an excellent road, and one of the leading thoroughfares of the land. It is shaded in many parts by magnificent trees, princi- N 194 Letters from Japan. pally firs and cedars. The ancient timber is one of the greatest beauties of Japan, and till lately it was contrary to law to cut a tree down without special permission, and planting a young one in its place. Now, unhappily, these restrictions seem to be' removed, and it is sad to see the chopping down that is going on of many fine old monarchs of the forest. I am told of a very curious tree, something akin to the pine, the health of which is improved by imbibing iron. My informant had seen one which, having shewn signs of decline, was completely restored to health by having numbers of rusty nails driven into it. LETTER XLII. 23^ November. We were off early to the railway station to see the arrival of the Mikado ; but his Majesty being late, we found it very cold waiting, and were much indebted to the kindness of Mr C, who brdered a fire m. his room, and sent for break- fast. By the time the Mikado appeared, it was raining in torrents ; so he very wisely made up his mind to go quietly back to Yedo, and Letters from Japan. 195 postpone the naval review to a more favourable day. We all went on the platform to see him as he returned to the railway carriage, and admired his brave efforts to adopt the gracious manner of European potentates, and bow to each side as he passed along. Just at the moment however, at which he approached our little feminine group, and we were preparing to receive him with our most graceful curtsies, his Majesty's courage failed, and he turned to the opposite side. He is quite young, not above one-and-twenty, tall, but not handsome. I know not how better to describe his dress, thaii to tell you that he wore two articles of apparel resembling somewhat a cassock and chasuble — the former scarlet, the latter white, surmounted by what I think was a plume of black horse-hair : at all events it had the same effect, and stood straight on end from his head. On his feet, I need hardly mention, were the inevitable boots with elastic sides, which seem so fascinating to people of all ranks and ages in this country. 2<^th. — ^The sun made up for its absence on Saturday by shining brilliantly when the Mikado again arrived from Yedo to see the Russian ships, and show the fleet of Japan to the Russian Prince. 196 Letters from "jfapan. It was a very gay sight when his majesty arrived — the ships all decorated with flags — their yards manned, and the firing and answering salutes, from the English, French, Russian, and Japanese men-of-war. As our windows look out on the harbour, we had the benefit of the whole scene without any trouble., Most of the day was occupied by the evolutions of the Japanese fleet, which is composed partly of vessels built by themselves, and partly of those bought in England. The Mikado in the mean- time remained on board the ship of the Grand Duke, where, it is said, he was immensely pleased with a chorus sung by the Russian sailors. On his departure, the guns again boomed forth their farewell salutes, and we went to see him land, but this time, he did not vouchsafe any gracious bows, to a crowd formed principally of his own subjects. In the evening we went to a ball given by the German Club in honour of the Grand Duke of Russia, at which report said the Mikado had proposed being preseht; this, however, proved incorrect, but he sent some of his Ministers of State, who, no doubt, must have been much astonished at our foreign manners and customs. Letters from "jfapan. 197 LETTER XLIII. On Board S.S., Zth December 187- One more letter you must have, with our fare- well experiences of Japan, ere we bid adieu to the East, and the happy prospect of being among you all once more, banishes all else from our minds. We had intended returning by P. and O., but this steamer belonging to Messrs Holt, arriving at Yokohama just in time to prevent our passage being taken by the other vessel, the advantage ot reaching England without any trans-shipment of our numerous belongings, was too great ^ an inducement to be resisted, so here we are. Scuttle, self and husband, all fairly on our way home. Our route is to be rather a circuitous one, which, however, will be no disadvantage, as it will give us an opportunity of seeing a little more of the country. The last few days have been spent principally paying our final visits to the curio shops, the charms of which I have never alluded to, though much time has been spent in rummaging over these interesting stores of lacquer, bronze, porce- lain, and all manner of pretty and curious things. Such researches are very amusing so long as you 198 Letters from fapan. do not particularly care whether you buy anything or not, and to the sellers also, it often appears a matter of such pure indifference, they sit quietly warming themselves over their boxes of charcoal, hardly making a remark, while all their goods are being investigated. When, however, one really wants to make a purchase, they ask such large prices, that in trying to bring them to reasonable terms, a great deal of time and much conversation has to be expended. Of course they know that casual visitors, here for a short time only, have no leisure to do this, and in consequence, they are considered fair game for imposition. Be it recorded however, to the honour of this,' as well as the Chinese nation, that they understand a joke and can appreciate one, even when, (as it usually is) at their own expense. As a general rule therefore, if one is patient, and speaks in a friendly, good-natured way, they seem rather to like the fun of arguing over the price of their wares, and if you leave the shop and shew them that you decidedly do not intend to be imposed on, they generally yield, and allow you to have the article in question for a third of what they asked, without harbouring any ill-will on the subject. The unwary stranger is, under any circumstances, much the better for having a Letters from Japan. 199 resident to accompany him in his shopping ex- peditions, otherwise he may, besides high prices, have a great deal of trash imposed on him, as it requires some experience to know what is really good lacquer, and the same remark applies to the other productions of native talent. Y'Xith. — Have been for two days at Kobe; one of them we employed in going to Osaka, the sea- port of Kioto, where, at the Imperial Mint, a very handsome new coinage is being prepared, which will soon completely supersede the dirty paper money now in circulation. The small steamer which conveyed us, took about two hours to go to the entrance of the river on which Osaka is situated: its banks on both sides as we approached the town, were lined with junks loading and disembark- ing cargo. The streets are much narrower than those of Yedo — much more densely populated, and present a much busier aspect than any other town we have seen in Japan. It is, in fact, the greatest mart for merchandise in the Empire. Some travellers of vivid imaginations have called it the " Venice of Japan," but the only point of re- semblance which can really be traced to the ^' Bride of the Sea" xs in the numerous canals by which the town is intersected, necessitating of 200 Letters from Japan. course, still more numerous bridges. The country- is flat, with hills in the distance, and the castle is the most important-looking object that met our eyes during our short visit, the houses being the same as in other towns, low and very humble- looking tenements. After a hurried visit to a great silk warehouse, and passing by many tempting- looking emporiums of curios, towards which I had only time to cast a few longing, lingering glances, we made our way to the Mint, where we were most hospitably received by Major and Mrs K. After luncheon, the former took us all over the establishment, and, thanks to his methodical way of doing so, we managed to carry away, not- withstanding the shortness of our visit, a tolerably clear idea of what is going on there. We saw all the different processes of melting the metal, rolling it into bars, gauging them to as- certain that they were the right breadth and thickness, cutting the coins, cleaning, weighing and stamping them, &c. Of all the machines, the one I most admired was that in which the coins were weighed, and which itself, by a most ingenious mechanism, put the heavy, light, and correct weight, all into different receptacles. Many large workshops are in process of building for the coin- age of copper, and also for gas and sulphur works. Letters from Japan, 201 There was at first a great prejudice against gas among the Japanese officials^ who would not have it in their houses, but by and by, when they saw that Europeans used it without anything dreadfiil happening, they became convinced that "fire could be safely brought along pipes" as they ex- pressed it, and now, being no longer horror-stricken with the idea, they have gradually begun to use it themselves. Having spent a most interesting day, we re- turned just in time for the little steamer, in which we had a most horrible tossing all the way to Kobe — the wretched little boat being knocked about on the waves like a cockle shell. A fellow- passenger who accompanied us in the morning, missed that agreeable ordeal by being too late. She did not however, seem to have improved matters, as she made her appearance early next day, nearly shaken to pieces, having come all the way in a' Ginriksha, taking, as she said, five hours for the journey. The beauty of the antique bronzes at Osaka had evidently been the cause of detention ; she returned with the most glowing accounts, and a few handsome specimens of what she had seen. No doubt the weight of the latter had proved rather a serious impediment to the pace of her human horses. 202 Letters from yapan. So great is the mania in Japan for the old Naval and Military uniforms of other nations, that there is a shop in Osaka full of them, and we hear that when the mint was first established, there had been in consequence, some little diffi- culty about the dress of the subordinate officials. ^ Many of them used to appear for their daily duties, fully accoutred as foreign soldiers and sailors, so the sentries who had been instructed to salute when an officer passed, became so utterly confused, they shouldered arms to every one. The Japanese appear from all we are told, to be even a more intensely conceited nation than the Chinese, and after attaining the most super- ficial knowledge on any subject, are quite satisfied they know as much as those who are teaching them. Notwithstanding also, their eager desire to imitate everything European, it is astonishing how jealous they are of its being known that they have foreign instructors, and how anxious they are, on all public occasions, to keep them as far as it is possible to do so, in the background. \(^th December. — Again we have been at beauti- ful Nagasaki, and this time remained for two days, which made up for my disappointment in not being able to land on our former visit. Letters from yapan. 203 Each town seems to have its own specialite in works of art, and that of Nagasaki is certainly porcelain, of which there was a beautiful collec- tion in the Bazaar, where we spent a considerable time. The small island of Desima, is the most inter- esting part of Nagasaki, owing to the fact, that until 1859, it was the only part of Japan open to foreigners, and then only to the privileged Dutch. For niore than 200 years the traders of that nation were there imprisoned as it were — never being allowed to set foot beyond this historical little island, which is only 600 feet long, and 250 broad, a narrow canal separating it from the mainland. It is said that in 18 14, it was the only place in the world where the flag of Holland floated, and this by the sufferance of the Japanese. After leaving the Bazaar, we walked through the charming grounds of Mr G.'s villa, where we saw a fine old pine growing in the house, i.e., the root really is in the house, and a hole is left in the wall for the trunk of the tree. From that we went to the Roman Catholic Church, where there are two rather good pictures representing the martyrdom of native Christians by crucifixion — probably an episode of the 1 7th century. 204 Letters from Japan. Curiously enough, the priests who are pour- trayed moving calmly about amid the horrid butchery — comforting the crucified dying, and sustaining the courage of those who are waiting their turn to undergo the same awful doom, ap- pear to be under no risk of molestation or ill usage. Perhaps it was a beautiful idea in the mind of the painter, that, though unseen by the eyes of wicked men, their beloved teachers and pastors were permitted by God, to be with the 'martyrs in their " last dr-ead hour," that by the aid of their presence and ministration, they might be the better enabled to endure the frightful agonies of such a death, and to die brave soldiers of Christ. Their blood was not shed in vain — through centuries of cruel persecution, Christianity has never been banished from Japan, although even in this very year, a new crusade against the remnant that are left in this province, was under- taken by the Imperial Government. Numerous families were seized, placed on board Steamers in Nagasaki, and said to be deported to other parts of the Empire. Few of them, however, have ever been heard of since. That Christianity should be so much discouraged at the present time, when there may be said to be no national religion, seems singularly inconsistent. Letters from Japan. 205 Hitherto there have been two forms, that of Shento or Shinto, and Buddha, but the latter has been lately abolished by edict ; and the priests sent away from the temples. It is said also, that emissaries have gone to visit all the countries of Europe to make observations and enquiries, and bring back a report on the different forms of Christianity, and then, probably, the Mikado or his councillors, will make up their minds which of them it is best to make the Established Church of the Empire. Everything is done "by edict" underthe Japanese government, even to the cutting or non-cutting of the hair. The order now issued is for the latter, a propos of which an English lady told me she had asked her servant how he liked letting his hair grow^ — to which he replied he did not like it at all, it made him. scratch too m,uch, which statement I doubt not was correct, as the Jappish head in its natural state is much like a shoe brush, with its coarse mass of thick black hair. They certainly are not a handsome race, for though we have occa- sionally seen a few tall, good-looking specimens of the nation, they are as a rule short and ill-made, and if the Darwinian theory be correct, I should say they must be several generations nearer the 2o6 Letters from yapan. parent monkey than we are, or even than their Chinese neighbours. The total absence of intellect, in the expression of most of the women's faces, is greatly accounted for by the fact of their entire want of education, and the very low rank they have been allowed to hold in the social scale. Not only have they never received th^e respect due to reasonable beings in this life, but their prospect of a share in any future state, has actually beeri denied them. This state of things is now happily being changed by an edict which places them more on a footing with their Lords and Masters. The old custom of blackening the teeth when married, is also being gradually abolished, and as the dye requires frequent application, even those who have hitherto been obliged to conform to the hideous practice, ' may profit by this result of advancing civilization. A still further improvement would it be to the dark-eyed fair sex of Japan, were they forbidden the use of paint and flour, with which they cover neck and face with a most unsparing and un- artistic hand ! As far as we have seen they do not appear to be in the habit of wearing much jewelry, the Obe being to the women, as swords are to the men, their greatest point of ex- travagance. These obds are worn round the Letters from Japan. 207 Waist like a sash, but are finished at the back with a thick kind of hump, and are often made of very costly materials. On no subject is there a more marked improve- ment than in the sense of decency which has been acquired since H.'s last visit, when the cleanliness of their habits was demonstrated in rather too .open a manner by people of both sexes, whereas now these public ablutions are totally discontinued. On the point of cleanliness there is a certain amount of inconsistency, for the attention which, as has been seen, they bestow on their houses and person, is by no means extended to their clothes. The result is, of course, extremely disagreeable, especially in the case of the clothed Ginriksha- men, the odour of whose unwashed apparel is most unpleasant when warm, and still more so when thrust under the seat, as it often is, when they are beyond the bounds of the European settlements, where their wearing it is enforced. There is evidently the want of an edict on the subject ! Ere many years are over however, it seems as if all national peculiarities, good, bad, and indifferent, would disappear, should no counter revolution take place to check the rapidity with which all old things are passihg away. Schools are being established all over the country to teach the people 2o8 Letters fropt yapan. English. Naval and Military men, as well as numerous civilians from Europe and America, are engaged to instruct them in the arts and sciences of other nations, courts of judicature, it is said, are to be established on the model of those in England, and it is even added that the English language alone, is to be used in all legal cases. And now we have bid adieu to Japan and the Japanese — very sorry for doing so without seeing more of so beautiful a land, and so curious a people. We shall have one more glimpse of our respect- able, steady-going conservative old friends, the Chinese, as we are to stop at Hong-Kong for a day, and then — farewell to the East \ NOTE A., p. 167. The school here alluded to is well worth especial notice as one of those quiet, unassuming, good works that are going on, not only among our own people at home, but in many a far comer of the earth, without the busy world being even aware of their existence. The first object of the school is to train the female children of native converts, of whom there are now about sixteen or eighteen, who are boarded, clothed, and supported at the expense of the Church Missionary Society. The school is under the superintendence of Miss Laurence, assisted by a native matron and a pupil teacher. The annual cost for the support of each girl is about ;^ 7 or ;^8. One of the present inmates of the school, a very pro- mising blind orphan girl, has been provided for during her lifetitne by a lady in England, who was much touched by reading an account of Miss Laurence's work, and who has promised an annual gift of ^;^io for the entire support of this little adopted daughter. - The school-house, which has been built by a liberal grant from the Society, and the aid of friends in England, is situ- ated in the heart of the city, and adjoining the residence of Bishop Russell of North China. There is ample accommo- dation for an extension of the work on which Miss Laurence is most anxious to enter — viz., a day-school for heathen chil- dren. Funds for this branch of the work, and also for the support of Bible-women — whom Miss Laurence employs in the Lake District, a few miles from the city — are much needed. But there is another want which I should indeed ricjoice if any reader of these pages should be moved to 2IO Note. supply. 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"Pregnant from beginning to end with the results of careful observation and imaginative power." — Chester Chronicle. Author of "St. Olave's," "When I was a Little Girl," &c. AUNT MARY'S BRAN PIE. Illustrated. 3^. 6d. Being one of Messrs. Heniy S. King and Co.'s y. dd. Series of Children's Books. Bagehot (Walter). PHYSICS AND POLITICS ; or. Thoughts on the AppU- cation of the Principles of " Natural Selection" and "Inheritance" to Political Society. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 41. Volume II. of the International Scientific Series. This volume professes to explain what has seemed to the author the political pre-requisites of progress. This is done the rather because the subject has hitherto been insufficiently examined, so that even if the author's views are found to be faulty, the discussion upon them may bring out others which are truer and better. THE ENGLISH CONSTITUTION. A New Edition, Revised and Corrected, with an Introductory Dissertation on Recent Changes and Events. Crown 8vo. 'Js. 6d. A brief but exhaustive treatise on the English Constitution in actual work and power. The introduction to this Second Edition is an important and lengthy chapter upon some of those political changes which have recently taken place, or are now actually in progress. " No writer before him had set out so clearly what the efficient part of the English Constitution really is." — Pall Mall Gazette. "A pleasing and clever study on the department of higher politics." — Guardian. LOMBARD STREET. A Description of the Money Market. Crown Svo. Fifth Edition. Js. 6d. Mr. Bagehot maintains in this treatise that the Money Market is as concrete and real as anything else ; he therefore has put a general view of the banking system of England into the simplest possible language, and the whole book is thoroughly within the comprehension of every educated reader. " Anybody who wishes to have a clear idea of the workings of what is called the Money Market should procure a little volume which Mr. Bagehot lias jusc published, and he will there find the whole thing in a nut-shell." — Saturday Henry S. King 6^ Co^s Publications. Bain (Alexander), LL.D. MIND AND BODY. The Theories of their Relation. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. '^s. Volume IV. of the International Scientific Series. The intention of this book is " to show that the connection of mind and body is not occasional or partial, but thorough-going and complete." Banks (Mrs. G. Linnaeus). GOD'S PROVIDENCE HOUSE. Crown 8vo. is. 6d. One of the volumes of the Cornhill Library of Fiction. The scene of this story is laid in Chester, and most of its events are in connection with the well-kno^vn house in that town which bears the inscription that gives the title to this book. In 1652, when the plague ravaged the city of Chester and death and deso- lation were on every hand, in this one house was health. To mark his gratitude, the owner caused the inscription referred to to be carved on one of the cross beams of his favoured dwelling. ! ■ "Far above the run of common three-volume novels, evincing much literary power in not a few graphic descriptions of manners and local customs. . A genuine sketch." — Spectator. " Possesses the merit of care, industry, and local knowledge." — Atheiiamn. " Wonderfully readable. The style is very simple and natural." — Morning Post. Baynes (Rev. Canon R. H.), Editor of " Lyra Angli- cana," &c. HOME SONGS FOR QUIET HOURS. Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. Cloth extra, 35-. 6d. A Collection of Hymns and Sacred Songs for the help and solace of the various members of Christ's Church Militant here on earth. "A tasteful collection of devotional poetry of a very high standard of excel- lence. The pieces are short, mostly original, and instinct, for the most part, with the most ardent spirit of devotion." — Standard. "These are poems in which every word has a meaning, and from which It would be unjust to remove a stanza. . . . Some of the best pieces in the book are anonymous." — Pall Mall Gazette. *ji,* The above book may also be had handsomely bound in Morocco with gilt edges. Bennett (Dr. W. C.) SONGS FOR SAILORS. Dedicated by Special Request to H. R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh. Crown 8vo. zs. 6d. With Steel Portrait and Illustrations. An Edition in Illustrated Paper Covers, is. Herein is used the ordinary language of the people, since the songs are intended to be such as to be felt and sung by the class for which they are written. "A simple, dashing, musical roll and movement, that remind us of some songs .that are favourites with all sailors." — Exajniner. _ "Dr. Bennett has taken up the mantle of Dibdin." — Graphic. A Descriptive Catalogue of Bennie (Rev. Jas. 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The transla- tion is a literal one, each narrative requiring as nearly as possible the ipsissivia verba. " The work of Major von Blume in its English dress forms the most valuable addition to our stock of works upon the war that our press has put forth. Our space forbids our doing more than commending it earnestly as the most au- thentic and instructive narrative of the second section of the war that has yet appeared." — Saturday lievieiv. Henry S. King &= Co.'s Publications. Boguslawski (Captain A. von). TACTICAL DEDUCTIONS FROM THE WAR OF 1870-71. Translated by Colonel Lumley Graham, late i8th (Royal Irish) Regiment. Second Edition, Revised and Corrected. Demy 8vo. Ts. Forming a volume of Heniy S. King and Co.'s Series of Mili- tary Works. The principal task here undertaken is to describe the pecu- liarities to be noticed in the late battles, and hence to draw con- clusions for the tactics of the present day. "We must, without delay, impress brain and forethought into the British Service ; and we cannot commence the good work too soon, or better, than by placing the two books (' The Operations of the German Armies ' and ' Tactical Deductions ') we have here criticised in every military library, and introducing them as class-books in every tactical school." — United Service Gazette, Bonwick (James). THE TASMANIAN LILY. Crown 8vo. With Frontis- piece. '1)5. Believing that emigration to Australia, and especially tO' Tasmania would suit the pocket, tastes, and health of many in England, the writer has sought to picture simply but fairly in this tale the condition of colonial life. " An interesting and useful work." — Hour. 1 1 " The characters of the story are capitally conceived, and are full of those touches which give them a natural appearance." — Public Opinion. MIKE HOWE, THE BUSHRANGER OF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. Crown 8vo. With a frontispiece. 5^. This story, although a work of fiction, is a narrative of facts as to the leading incidents of the Bushranger's career. The tale may therefore be regarded as a contribution to Colonial Literature. " He illustrates the career of the bushranger half a century ago ; and this he does in a highly creditable manner ; his delmcations of life in the bush are, to say the least, exquisite, and his representations of character are very marked." — Edinburgh Courant. Boswell (R. B.), M.A., Oxon. METRICAL TRANSLATIONS FROM THE GREEK AND LATIN POETS, and other Poems. Crown 8vo. 5^. This book includes translations from Homer, Lucretius, and- other Greek and Latin poets, in some cases as nearly as possible in the metre of the original. " Most of these translations we can praise as of very high merit. ... For sweetness and regularity, his verses arc pre-eminent." Literary Churchman. "Mr, Boswell has a strong poetical vein in his nature, and gives us eve ry promise of success as an original poet." — Standard. A Descriptive Catalogue of Bothmer (Countess von). CRUEL AS THE GRAVE. A Novel. 3 vols. *' yealousy is cruel as the Grave." " Interesting, though somewhat tia^^c." —Athe7UFU7n. " Agreeable, unaffected, and eminently readable." — Daily News. Bowring (L.), C.S.I., Lord Canning's Private Secretary, and for many years Chief Commissioner of Mysore and Coorg. EASTERN EXPERIENCES. Illustrated with Maps and Diagrams. Demy 8vo. \6s. The sketches contained in this volume are based upon Notes made during the course of several tours through the provinces of Mysore and Coorg. Information has been added from published official reports and such other sources as could be comprised within moderate limits. "An admirable and exhaustive geographical, political, and industrial survey." Athenmujn. " Interesting even to the general reader, but especially so to those who may have a special concern in that portion of our Indian Empire." — Post. " This compact and methodical summary of the most authentic information relating to countries whose welfare is intimately connected with our own." — Daily News. BRAVE MEN'S FOOTSTEPS. By the Editor of "Men who have Risen.'' A Book of Example and Anecdote for Young People. With Four Illustrations by C. Doyle. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3J. 6d. The lives have been chosen to represent marked varieties of character and their operation under different forms of effort. Success is here viewed in no narrow or merely commercial sense. "A readable and instructive volume." — Examiner. " The little volume is precisely of the stamp to win the favour of those who, in choosing a gift for a boy, would consult his moral development as well as his temporary pleasure." — Daily Telegraph. Brialmont (Colonel A.) HASTY INTRENCHMENTS. Translated by Lieut. Charles A. Empson, R. A. With nine Plates. Demy 8vo. ts. "A valuable contribution to military literature." — Aiheneeu7n. " In seven short chapters it gives plain directions for forming shelter-trenches, ■with the best method of carrying the necessary tools, and it offers practical illus- trations of the use of hasty intrenchments on the field of battle." — United Service Magazine. "." " It supplies that which our own text-books give but imperfectly, viz., hints as to how a position can best be strengthened by means ... of such extem- porised intrenchments and batteries as can be thrown up by infantry in the space of four or five hours . . . deserves to become a standard military work." Standard. BRIEFS AND PAPERS. Being Sketches of the Bar and the Press. By Two Idle Apprentices. Crowm 8vo. 7^. 6^. "Written with spirit and knowledge, and give some curious glimpses into what the majority will regard as strange and unknown territories." — Daily News. "This is one of the best books to while away an hour and cause a generous laugh that we have come across for a long time." — yokn BulU Henry S. King &= Co.'s Publications. Brooke (Rev. Stopford A.), M.A., Chaplain in Ordi- narj' to Her Majesty the Queen. THE LATE REV. F. W. ROBERTSON, M.A., LIFE AND LETTERS OF. Edited by Stopford Brooke, M.A. I. In 2 vols., uniform with tlie Sermons. With a Steel Portrait. Is. dd. II. Library Edition, in demy 8vo. With Two Steel Portraits. \2s. III. A Popular Edition, in I vol. 6.r. THEOLOGY IN THE ENGLISH POETS.— Cowper, Coleridge, Wordsworth, and Burns. Second Edition. Post 8vo. gj. An experiment designed to bring the pulpit on Sunday to bear on subjects other than those commonly called religious, and to rub out the sharp lines drawn by the false distinction between Sacred and Profane. " Apart from its literary merits, the book may be said to po.ssess aii indepen- dent value, as tending to familiarise a certain section of the English public with more enlightened views of theology." — At/i^aaiun, "... An admirable example of interpretative criticism . . . clear, adequate, eloquent, fresh, suggestive, stimulating, and we cordially recom- mend it." — Ntmcoiifomiist. CHRIST IN MODERN LIFE. Sermons Preached in St. James's Chapel, York Street, London. Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo. yj. dd. The main thought of this volume is that the ideas which Christ made manifest on earth are capable of endless expansion to suit the wants of men in every age, and that they do expand, developing into new forms of larger import and wider application. " Nobly fearless, and singularly strong . . . carries our admiration through- out." — British Quarterly Jieview. FREEDOM IN THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND. Six Sermons suggested by the Voysey Judgment, Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3^. 6d. "A very fair statement of the views in respect to freedom of thought held by the liberal party in the Church of England." — Blachwood's Magazine. "Interesting and readable, and characterised by great clearness of thought, ■fraakness of statement, and moderation of tone." — Churck Opi?iioTi. SERMONS Preached in St. Jame.s's Chapel, York Street, London. Seventh Edition. Crown 8vo. 6j-. ** No one who reads these sermons will wonder that Mr. Brooke is a great power in London, that his chapel is thronged, and his followers large and ■enthusiastic. They are fiery, energetic, impetuous sermons, rich with the trea- sures of a cultivated imagination. "^G^^art^/ww. FREDERICK DENISON MAURICE: the Life and Work of. A Memorial Sermon. Crovra 8vo, sewed, is. A Descriptive Catalogue of Brooke (W. G.), M.A., Barrister-at-Law, Author of "Six Privy Council Judgments," &c. THE PUBLIC WORSHIP REGULATION ACT. "With a Classified Statement of its Provisions, Notes, and Index. The present volume is not meant as a technical but as a popular treatise, the object in view being to render the Act intelligible to the non-professional reader. SIX PRIVY COUNCIL JUDGMENTS — 1850-1872. Annotated by W. G. Brooke, M.A., Barrister-at-Law. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 9j. A few of the more important of the ecclesiastical causes heard since the year 1850 before the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council. " The volume is a valuable record of cases forming precedents for the future." — A thencsutn. " A very timely and important publication. It brings into one view the great judgments of the last twenty years, which will constitute the unwritten law of the English Establishment." — British Quarterly Review. Brown (Rev. J. Baldwin), B.A., Author of "First Principles of Ecclesiastical Truth," &c. THE HIGHER LIFE. Its Reality, Experience, and Destiny. Crown 8vo. 7-^- 6(^* This book is sent forth in the hope that it may help some, espe- cially among the young, to hold fast their faith in the great facts and truths which alone make this life of ours worth living at all. The earlier chaiJters glance at some of the recent speculations of science. "Very clearly and eloquently set forth." — Standard, " Mr, Baldwin Brown's writings are full of thought, beauty, and power, and repay the careful study, not only of those who have a penchant for theological reading, but of all intelligent persons. We have felt this more than ever whilst perusing this noble volume." — Baptist. Browne (Rev. Marmaduke E.) UNTIL THE DAY DAWN. Four Advent Lectures delivered in the Episcopal Chapel, Milverton, Warwickshire, on the Sunday evenings during Advent, 1870. Crown 8vo. zs. td. *' Four really original and stirring sermons." — Joh7t Bull, Bryant (William Cullen). POEMS. Red-line Edition. Handsomely" bound. With Illus- trations and Portrait of the Author. 7j. 6d. A Cheaper Edition, with Frontispiece, is also published. 3J. 6d, These are the only complete English Editions sanctioned by the Author, This Edition contains several of the Author's Poems which have not appeared in any previous Collection. " Of all the poets of the United States there is no one who obtained the fame and pcsition of a classic earlier, or has kept them longer, than William CuUen Bryant. —Academy. " We are glad to possess so neat and elegant an edition of the works of the most thoughtful, graceful, and Wordsworthian of American poets." — British Quarterly Review. Henry S. King 6^ Co.'s Publicatioiu. Buchanan (Robert). POETICAL WORKS. Collected Edition, in 3 Vols., price ds. each. Vol. I. contains : — " Ballads and Romances ;" "Ballads and Poems of Life," and a Portrait of the Author. Vol. II. — -"Ballads and Poems of Life;" "Allegories and Sonnets." Vol! III.—" Cruiskeen Sonnets ;" " Book of Orm ;" " Political Mystics." In the present Collected Edition will be found, more or less revised, all the author's poetical writings, with the exception of some of which his maturer judgment does not approve, and with the addition of many which are now either printed or collected for the first time. " Taking the poems before us as experiments, we hold that they are very full of promise. . . . In the romantic ballad, Mr. Buchanan shows real power."— lioitr, " If Mr. Buchanan were an unknown poet, this volume would be amply suffi- cient to establish his reputation among all lovers of true poetry," — Liverpool A Ibion. "We can conscientiously recommend this collected edition to every admirer of Mr. Buchanan's poetry." — Glasgow News. MASTER-SPIRITS. Post Svo. los. 6d. "Good books are the precious life-blood of Master-Spirits. '*■ — Miitou. " Full of fresh and vigorous writing, such as can only be produced by a man of keen and independent intellect." — Saturday Reviezv. " Written with a beauty of language and a .spirit of vigorous enthusiasm rare even in our best living word-painters." — Sta7idard. *' A very pleasant and readable book." — Examiner, " Mr. Buchanan is a writer whose books the critics may always open with satisfaction . . both manly and artistic." — Hour. Bulkeley (Rev. Henry J.) WALLED IN, and other Poems. Crown Svo. 5J-. " A remarkable book of genuine poetry," —Et>ening Stajidard. " Genuine power displayed." — Examifter. " Poetical feeling is manifest here, and the diction of the poem is unimpeach- able."- /"a// Mall Gazelle. Bunnett (F. E.) LEONORA CHRISTINA, MEMOIRS OF, Daughter of Christian IV. of Denmark ; Written during her Imprisonment in the Blue Tower of the Royal Palace at Copenhagen, 1 663- 1685. Translated by F. E. Bunnett. With an Autotype Portrait of the Princess. Medium Svo. 12s. 6d. The story of a King's Daughter who had to suffer alone and innocently for her husband's crimes, in which she had no part, and who endured persecution because she would not forsake him in his misfortune. "A valuable addition to the tragic romance of history." — Speclalor. A Descriptive Catalogue of Bunnett (F. E.) LINKED AT LAST, i vol. Crowii 8vo. " The readerwho once takes it up will not be inclined to relinquish it without concluding the wQ\M-aifi." — Monung Post. "A very charming story." — Jo/tfi Bull, JOHANNES OLAF. By E. de Wille. 3 vols. "The art of description is fully exhibited; perception of character and capacity for delineating it are obvious ; while there is great breadth and com- prehensiveness in the plan of the story." — Morning Post. Butler (Josephine E.) JOHN GREY (of Dilston) : MEMOIRS. By his Daughter, Josephine E. Butler. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. The life of a true English gentleman, through whose moral, social, and professional influence the North of England was espe- cially benefited, and whose character and life have proved to be a power for good in his country, far beyond the immediate circle of those who were immediately acquainted with him, " It is not a mere story of success or genius, as far removed as a fairy tale from the experience and imitation of ordinary people ; but it is, if we only allow it to be so, an incentive and exemplar to all of us. . . . Something we must say of the skilful and temperate execution of the memoir itself ; it is impossible to read it without feeling that Mrs. Butler is her father's daughter, and without wishing that she had given us two volumes instead of one." — From a five- column notice of" TJte Times " on the First Edition. Camden (Charles), HOITY, TOITY, THE GOOD LITTLE FELLOW. With Eleven Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 3J. 6d. " Relates very pleasantly the history of a charming little fellow who meddles always with a kindly disposition with other people's affairs, and helps them to do right. There are many shrewd lessons to be picked up in this clever little story." — Public Oj>imo7i. THE TRAVELLING MENAGERIE. By Charles Camden, Author of *' Hoity Toity." With Ten Illustrations by J. Mahoney. Crown 8vo. 3^. 6d. " A capital little book .... deserves a wide circulation among our boys and girls." — Hour. "A very attractive story." — Public Opinion. Carlisle (A. D.), B.A., Trin. Coll., Camb. ROUND THE WORLD IN 1870. A Volume of Travels, with Maps. Demy 8vo. i6j. This narrative of a tour round the world is intended to be an easy, truthful, and interesting account of the men and manners, of the various objects of interest, natural and artificial, seen in the different countries visited. The entire tour occupied thirteen months. "We can only commend, which we do very heartiW, an eminently sensible and readable book." — Briiisk Quarterly Review. " Mr. Carlisle's account of his little outing is exhilarating and charming." — Spectator. " Rarely have we read a more graphic description of the countries named, India, Chma, Japan, California, and South America .... The chapters about Japan are especially replete with information," — yohii Bull. Henry S. King 6^ Co.^s Piihlicatmis. 13 Came (Miss E. T.) THE REALM OF TRUTH. Crown 8vo. <,s. 6d. The leading idea of this book is that truth is that which exists by its own inherent nature, and that our reception of it should be less as something to see and know than as something to be. ** A singularly calm, thoughtful, and philosophical inquiry into what Truth is^ and what its authority." — Leeds Merctiry. " It tells the world what it does not like to hear, but what it cannot be told too often, that Truth is something stronger and more enduring than our little doings, and speakings, and actings." — Literary Chiirch}iia?i. Carpenter (E.) NARCISSUS AND OTHER POEMS. Fcap. 8vo. 5j. " In many of these poems there is a force of fancy, a grandeur of imagination^ and a power of poetical utterance not by any means common in these days." — - Standard. Carpenter (W. B.), LL. D., M. D., F. R. S., &c. THE PRINCIPLES OF MENTAL PHYSIOLOGY. With their Applications to the Training and Discipline of the Mind, and the Study of its Morbid Conditions. 8vo. Illustrated. 12s. A contribution to the science of human nature amply designed to supplement existing systems of physiology and metaphysics, by dealing with a group of subjects whicli, occupying the border- ground between the two, have been almost entirely neglected in both. "... . We have not dealt with the two main views elaborated in this valu- able book, from the first of which, together with the inferences which Dr. Car- penter draws as to the sources of our knowledge of necessary truth, we mainly dissent, but with the latter of which -use cordially agree. Let us add that nothing we have said, or in any limited space could say, would give an adequate conception of the valuable and curious collection of facts bearing on morbid mental conditions, the learned physiological exposition, and the treasure-house of useful hints for mental training which make this large and yet very amusing, as well as instructive book, an encyclopsedia of well-classified and often very startling psychological experiences." — Spectator. Carr (Lisle). JUDITH GWYNNE. In 3 vols. Crown 8vo. cloth. Se- cond Edition. " Mr. Carr's novel is certainly amusing .... There Is much variety, and the dialogue and incident never flag to the finish." — AtJtencsiiin, Christopherson (The late Rev. Henry), M.A., Assistant Minister at Trinity Church, Brighton. SERMONS. Crown 8vo. cloth, price 7^. (>d. With an Intro- duction by John Rae, LL.D., F.S. A. ' ' These sermons are marked by a vigour of composition and re- finement of diction, a closeness of reasoning and a wealth of Biblical illustration not frequently to be found in the pulpit discourses of the present day." — Introduction. 14 A Descriptive Catalogue of Clayton (Cecil). EFFIE'S GAME; HOW SHE LOST AND HOW SHE WON. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. "Well written. The characters move, and act, and, above all, talk like human beings, and we have liked reading about them."— Spectator. Clerk (Mrs. Godfrey),* Author of " The Antipodes and Round the World." 'ILAm en NAS. Historical Tales and Anecdotes of the Times of the Early Khalifahs. Translated from the Arabic Origi- nals. Illustrated with Historical and Explanatory Notes. Crown 8vo. "Js. " Those who like stories full of the genuine colour and fragrance of the East should by all means read Mrs. Godfrey Clerk's volume." — Spectator. "As full of valuable information as it is of amusing incident." — Evening Stn7tdard. Coleridge (Sara). PRETTY LESSONS IN VERSE FOR GOOD CHILDREN, with some Lessons in Latin, in Easy Rhyme. A new Edition. PHANTASMION. A Fairy Romance. With an Introduc- tory Preface by the Right Hon. Lord Coleridge of Otterj' S. Mary. A new edition. In i vol. Crown 8vo. yj. td. This book, of which the first edition was limited to 250 copies, was long out of print, and as now revived appeals to a larger audience and a new generation. They will find in this delicate imagination, melody of verse, clear and picturesque language, and virginal purity of conception. "The readers of this fairy tale will find themselves dwelling for a time in a veritable region of romance, breathing an atmosphere of unreality, and sur- rounded by supernatural beings." — Mortiing Post. "This delightful work .... We would gladly have read it were it twice the length, closing the book with a feeling of regret that the repast was at an end." — Vanity Fair. "A beautiful conception of a rarely gifted mini."— E.vamine7: MEMOIR AND LETTERS OF SARA COLERIDGE. Edited by her Daughter. Third Edition, Revised and Correcte Co.'s Publications. 1 5 Collins (Mortimer). THE PRINCESS CLARICE. A Story of 1871. 2 vols. "Mr. Collins has produced i. readable book, amusingly characteHstic."— - Athen^unt. "Abright, fresh, and original hodU.."— Standard, SQUIRE SILCHESTER'S WHIM. By Mortimer Col- lins, Author of " Marquis and Merchant," &c. 3 vols. " We think it the best (story) Mr. Collins has yet written. Full of incident and adventure." — Pall Mall Gazette^ " So clever, so irritating, and so charming a story." — Standard. MIRANDA. A Midsummer Madness. 3 vols. *' Not a dull page in the whole three volumes." — Standard. " The work of a man who is at once a thinker and a poet." — Hour. THE INN OF STRANGE MEETINGS, AND OTHER POEMS. Crown 8vo. <,s. "Abounding in quiet humour, in bright fancy, in sweetness and melody of cvpression, and, at times, in the tenderest touches of pathos."— Grrt^/iiV. "Mr. Collins has an undercurrent of chivalry and romance beneath the trifling vein of good-humoured banter, which is the special characteristic of his verse. " — A ihenatun. THE SECRET OF LONG LIFE. Dedicatedbyspecialper- mission to Lord St. Leonard's. Fourth Edition. Large crown 8vo. 5-f" " A charming little volume." — Times. " A very pleasant little book, cheerful, genial, scholarly." — Spectator. " Entitled to the warmest admiration." — Pall Mall Gazette. Collins (Rev. Richard), M.A. MISSIONARY ENTERPRISE IN THE EAST. With special reference to the Syrian Christians of Malabar, and the results of modern missions. With Four Illustrations. Crown 8vo. ds. In addition to an interesting account of missionary labour in Eastern lands, this book contains some valuable meteorological notes and observations. "It is a real pleasure to read an honest book on Missionary work, every word of which shows the writer to be a man of large heart, farseeing views, and liberal cultivation, and such a book we have now before us." — Mission Life. " We may judge from our own experience, no one who takes up this charming little volume will lay it down again till he has got to the last word." — John Bull. Conway (Moncure D.) REPUBLICAN SUPERSTITIONS. Illustrated by the Political History of the United States. Including a Correspond- ence with M. Louis Blanc. Crown 8vo. 5^-. " A very able exposure of the most plausible fallacies of Republicanism, by a writer of remarkable vigour and purity of style." — Standard. " Mr. Conway writes with ardent sincerity. He gives us some good anecdotes, and he is occasionally almost eloquent." — Guardian. 1 6 A Descriptive Catalogue of Conyers (Ansley). CHESTERLEIGH. 3 vols. Cro^vn 8vo. 3U. dd. "We have gained much enjoyment from the book," — Spectator. Cooke, Professor Josiah P. (of the Harvard Uni- versity. THE NEW CHEMISTRY. Second Edition. With Thirty-one Illustrations. 5^-. Vol. XIII. of the International Scientific Series. Cooper (T. T.) THE MISHMEE HILLS : an Account of a Journey made in an Attempt to Penetrate Thibet from Assam, to open Xew Routes for Commerce. Second Edition. With Four Illustrations and Map. Demy 8vo. loj. bd. A journey through the empire of China from east to west, traversing the almost impassable snowy ranges of Eastern Thibet, and running the gauntlet among the nomad Mongol banditti in- festing the valleys of this wild frontier region, to the town of Bathang, 200 miles from the frontiers of northern Assam. "The volume, which will be of great use in India and among Indian mer- chants here, contains a good deal of matter that ^vilI interest ordinary readers. It is especially rich in sporting incidents." — Siajidard. COSMOS. A Poem. Fcap. 8vo. y. 6d. Subject. — Nature in the Past and in the Present— Man in the Past and in the Present — The Future. Calderon. CALDERON'S DRAMAS : The Wonder- Working Magi- cian — Life is a Dream — The Purgatory of Saint Patrick. Trans- lated by Denis Florence MacCarthy. Post 8vo. los. In this translation all the forms of verse have been preserved, while the closeness of the translation may be inferred from the fact that not only the whole play, but every speech and fragment of a speech are represented in English in the exact number of lines of the original, without the sacrifice, it is to be hoped, of one impor- tant idea. Henry S, King er^ Co.^s Publications. 17 Cornhill Library of Fiction, The. 3^. 6fl'. per Volume. It is intended in this Series to produce books of such merit that readers, will care to preserve them on their shelves. They are well printed on good paper, handsomely bound, with a Frontispiece, and are sold at the moderate price of 3J-. ^d. each. HALF-A-DOZEN DAUGHTERS. By J. Masterman. " A charming little story."-^Saturciiij' Reinew. " Unusually bright and 2X\x2XX\vt.."— Pall Mall Gazette. THE HOUSE OF RABY. By Mrs. G. Hooper. '* A work of singular truthfulness, originality, and power." — Morning Post. " Exceedingly well written," — Exaiitiner.. " A well- told and interesting %\.oxY"—Acade}ny. A FIGHT FOR LIFE. By Moy Thomas. "An unquestionable success." — Dally Newi. " Of the vigour, the sustained energy, the animation, there cannot be two opinions." — A thenccuvi. ROBIN GRAY. By Charles Gibbon. '* Pure in sentiment, well written, and cleverly constructed." — British Quar- terly Rcz'iew. " A novel of tender and pathetic interest."— G/o^«'. "A pretty tale, prettily X.o\d.." —Aihen.idard. " A very interesting and uncommon stoiy. " — Vanity Fair. "One of the most remarkable novels which has appeared of late." — Pall Mall Gazette. GOD'S PROVIDENCE HOUSE. By Mrs. G. L. Banks. " Far above the run of common three-volume novels, evincing much literary power in not a few graphic descriptions of manners and local customs" — Spectator. "Possesses the merit of care, industry, and local knowledge."— ^Mir«(?7/wr. " Wonderfully readable. The style is very simple and naXMrA." —Post, FOR LACK OF GOLD. By Charles Gibbon. "A powerfully written, nervous story."— A thenaum. " A piece of very genuine workmanship. " — British Quarterly Review. ABEL DRAKE'S WIFE. By John Saunders. "A striking book, clever^ interesting, and original. We have seldom met with a book so thoroughly true to life, so deeply interesting in its detail, and so touching in its simple pathos."— Ath^ff^n7n. C A Descriptive Catalogue of Cotton (Robert Turner). MR. CARINGTON. A Tale of Love and Conspiracy. 3 vols. Ci'own 8vo. 3 1 J. 6cl. " A novel in so many-ways good, as in a fresh and elastic diction, stout uncon- ventionality, and happy boldness of conception and execution." — Examiner, Curwen (Henry). SORROW AND SONG: Studies of Literary Struggle. Henry Mlirger — Novalis — Alexander Petofi — Honore de Balzac — Edgar Allan Poe — Andre Chenier. 2 vols, crown 8vo. 15J. Davidson (Samuel), D.D., LL.D. THE NEW TESTAMENT, TRANSLATED FROM THE LATEST GREEK TEXT OF TISCHENDORF. The desirableness of presenting a single text, especially if it be the best, instead of one formed for the occasion under traditional influences, is apparent. From an exact translation of Tischendorf's final critical edition, readers viiW get both the words of the New Testament writers as nearly as possible, and an independent revi- sion of the authorised version. Such a work will shortly appear, with an Introduction embodying ideas common to Dr. Davidson and the famous Professor at Leipzig. Davies (G. Christopher). MOUNTAIN, MEADOW, AND MERE : a Series of Outdoor Sketches of Sport, Scenery, Adventures, and "Natural History. With Sixteen Illustrations by Bosworth W. Harcourt. Crown 8vo. 6s. " The great charm of a book of this kind lies in its reviving so many of the brighter associations of one's early existence." — Saturday Review, ' Mr. Davies writes pleasantly, graphically, with the pen of a lover of nature, a naturalist, and a sportsman. " — Field, Davies (Rev. J. Llewelyn), M.A. THEOLOGY AND MORALITY. Essays on Questions of Belief and Practice. Crown 8vo. 7^. dd. The topics discussed in these Essays are all amongst those upon which opinion is now forming. The principle running through them is that instruction ought to be himibly sought, and by Chris- tians more reverently than by any others, from the progressive de- velopment of life and knowledge. De Leoville-Meilhan (Vjcomtesse). A CHEQUERED LIFE, being Memoirs. Edited by the Vicomtesse Solange de Kerkadec. Crown Svo. Is. dd. Containing many recollections of the First Emperor Napoleon and his Court. " There are numerous passages of a strongly dramatic character, describing conventual life, trials for murder, death-bed marriages, village bridals, revo- lutionary outrages, and the other familiar aspects of ithose times : and we must say that the vraisetnbiancc is admirable." — Standard. Henry S. King 6^ Co^s Pitblicatmis. 19 De L'Hoste (Colonel E. P.) THE DESERT PASTOR, JEAN JAROUSSEAU. Translated from the French of Eugene Pelletan. In fcap. 8vo, with an Engraved Frontispiece. New Edition. 3J. ^d. One of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s Three and Sixpenny Books for the Young. " A touching record of the struggles in the cause of religious liberty of a real man. " — Graphic. " There is a poetical simplicity and picturesqueness ; the noblest heroism ; unpretentious religion ; pure love, and the spectacle of a household brought up in the fear of the Lord." — I Ihtstrated London News. De Liefde (Jacob). THE GREAT DUTCH ADMIRALS. Crown 8vo. With Eleven Illustrations by Townley Green and others. 5^'. One of Messrs. Heniy S. King and Co.'s Five Shilling Books for the Young. " May be recommended as a wholesome present for boys. They will find in. it numerous tales of adventure." — Athe7Lau7n, " A really good book." — Standard. "A really excellent book." — Spectator. DeRedcliffe (Viscount Stratford), P. C.,K.G.,G.C.B. WHY AM I A CHRISTIAN ? Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 3.r. The author has seen with serious concern that tendency to a sceptical and irreverent treatment of religious subjects which even in this Christian country marks to no small extent the passing age. Under impressions derived from a painful sense of danger he has reviewed his own grounds of faith and has committed them to writing. " Has a peculiar interest, as exhibiting the convictions of an earnest, intelli- gent, and practical man." — Contemporary Review. De Tocqueville (Alexis). CORRESPONDENCE AND CONVERSATIONS OF, WITH NASSAU WILLIAM SENIOR. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 2 1 J. Mr. Senior was honoured with the friendship of Alexis de Tocque- ville for twenty-six years, for the ten last years of which his conver- sations are here preserved. The reports were sent to M. de Tocque- ville as they were written, and received his corrections. De Vere (Aubrey). ALEXANDER THE GREAT. A Dramatic Poem. Small cro^^m 8vo. 5-^' " Undeniably well written." — Examiner. " In some points Mr. De Vere's poetry is a model to most of his fellow singers. Its idioms and phraseology are English, thorough and correct English ; his verses, with few exceptions, are symmetrical, simple, and sweet ; and his diction throughout is dignified, as becomes the stately muse of tragedy, and often rises to sublime pitch, leaving all his contemporaries far behind." — Standard. " A noble play. . . . The work of a true poet, and of a fine artist, in whom there is nothmg vulgar and nothing weak. . . We had no conception, from our knowledge of Mr. De Vere's former poems, that so much poetic power lay in him as this drama shows. It is terse as well as full of beauty, nervous as well as rich in thought."— Spectator, A Descnptzve Catalogue of De Vere (Aubrey), THE LEGENDS OF ST. PATRICK, and olher Poems, Small crown 8vo. $s. "Mr. De Vere's versification in his earlier poems is characterised by great sweetness and simplicity. He is master of his instrument, and rarely offends- the ear with false notes." — Pall Mall Gazette. " We have but space to commend the varied structure of his verse, the care- fulness of his grammar, and his excellent English." — Saturday Revieiu. De Wille (E.) JOHANNES OLAF. A Novel. Transl. by F. E. Bumiett. 3 vols. Crown 8vo. 31J. 6f/. " The art of description is fully exhibited ; perception of character and capacity for delineating it are obvious ; while there is great breadth and com- prehensiveness in the plan of the story." — Morning Post, Dennis (John). ENGLISH SONNETS. Collected and Arranged. Fcap. 8vo. Elegantly bound. 3j. (>d. This Collection of Sonnets, arranged chronologically from the Elizabethan to the Victorian era, is designed for the students of l^oetry, and not only for the reader who takes up a volume of verse in order to pass away an idle hour. The Sonnet contains, to use the words of Marlowe, *' infinite riches in a little room." " Mr. Dennis has shown great judgment in this selection." — Saturday Rez'ie^v. " An exquisite selection, a selection which every lover of poetry will consult again and again with delight. The notes are very useful. . . . The volume is one for which English literature owes Mr. Dennis the heartiest thanks." — Spectator. Dobson (Austin). VIGNETTES IN RHYME AND VERS DE SO- CI^TE". Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 5^. " A charming little book." — Spectator. "Clever, clear-cut, and careful." — Athemsuvi. "As a writer of Vers de Societe, Mr. Dobson is almost. If not quite, un- rivalled." — E.xammcr. Donn^ (Alphonse), M.D. CHANGE OF AIR AND SCENE. A Physician's Hints about Doctors, Patients, Hygiene, and Society ; with Notes of Excursions for Health in the Pyrenees, and amongst the Watering- places of France (Inland and Seaward), Switzerland, Corsica, and the Mediterranean. A New Edition. Large post 8vo, <^s. A simple book of cheerful travel and talk, and a practical index to the various mineral waters which exercise so powerful an influence in specific ailments. "A very readable and serviceable book. . . . The real value of it is to be found in the accurate and minute information given with regard to a large number of places which have gained a reputation on the continent for their mineral waters." — Pall Mall Gazette. "A singularly pleasant and chatty as well as instructive book about health." Giiardinv. Henry S. King &= Co.'s Publications. Dowden (Edward), LL.D. SHAKSPERE : a Critical Study of his Mind and Art. Post 8vo. \2S. The chief design of this work is to discover the man — Shakspere — through his works, and to ascertain his course of mental and moral development as far as this is possible. This thread running tlirough the work will make it a continuous study, written for such intelligent readers of Shakspere as are not specialists in Shakspere scholarship, and intended to be an introduction to the study of .Shakspere, popular in the sense of being attractive to all intelligent lovers of literature, but founded upon the most recent and accurate Shakspere scholarship, English, German, and American. Downton (Rev. Henry), M.A. HYMNS AND VERSES. Original and Translated. Small crown 8vo. 3^-. dd. " Considerable force and beauty characterise some of these verses." — IVatcJunan. " Mr. Downton's ' Hymns and Verses ' are worthy of all praise." — English Churcktnan, *' Will, we do not doubt, be welcome as a permanent possession to those for whom they have been composed or to whom they have been originally ad- dressed." — Church Herald. ; Drew (Rev. G. S.), M.A., Vicar of Trinity, Lambeth. SCRIPTURE LANDS IN CONNECTION WITH THEIR HISTORY. Second Edition. 8vo. 10s. 6d. " Mr. Drew has invented a new method of illustrating Scripture history — from observation of the countries. Instead of narrating his travels, and refer- ring from time to time to the facts of sacred history belonging to the different countries, he writes an outline history of the Hebrew nation from Abraham, downwards, with special reference to the various points in which the geography illustrates the history. . . . He is very successful in picturing to his readers the scenes before his own mind." — Saturday Kcvieiu. NAZARETH: ITS LIFE AND LESSONS. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 5^. The simple purpose of this book is to remove with fitting care and reverence that veil of reserve which has been so widely drawn over so many portions of the life of Christ, so that as nearly as possible we too may see our Lord as He was actually seen by those who " companied with Him " in the early days of His mortality. " We have read the volume with great interest. It is at once .succinct and suggestive, reverent and ingenious, observant of small details, and yet not for- getful of great principles." — British Quarterly Revieii). " A very reverent attempt to elicit and develop Scripture intimations respect- ing our Lord's thirty years' sojourn at Nazareth. The author has wrought well at the unworked mine, and has produced a very valuable series of Scripture lessons, which will be found both profitable and singularly interesting." — Ciiardian. A Descriptive Catalogue- oj Drew (Rev. G. S.) M.A. THE DIVINE KINGDOM ON EARTH AS IT IS IN HEAVEN. 8vo. lOi-. 6d. " Entirely valuable and satisfactory. . . , There is no living divine to whom the authorship would not be a credit." — Literary Churckman. "Thoughtful and eloquent. . . . Full of original thinking admirably ex- pressed." — British Quarterly Review. THE SON OF MAN: His Life and Ministry. Crown 8vo. 7J-. 6d. Durand (Lady). IMITATIONS FROM THE GERMAN OF SPITTA AND TERSTEGEN. Fcap. 8vo. 4J. "A charming little volume. . . . Will be a verj-^ valuable assistance to peaceful, meditative souls."— Chjirch Herald. Du Vernois (Colonel von Verdy). STUDIES IN LEADING TROOPS. An authorised and accurate Translation by Lieutenant H. J. T. Hildyard, 71st Foot. Parts I. and II. Demy 8vo, "js. This is one of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s Series of MiUtary Works. *^ General Eeauchamp Walker says of this work: — "1 recommend the first two numbers of Colonel von Verdy's ' Studies ' to the attentive perusal of my brother officers. They supply a want which I have often felt during my service in this country, namely, a minuter tactical detail of the minor operations of war than any but the most observant and fortunately-placed staff-officer is in a position to give. I have read and re-read them very carefully, I hope with profit, certainly with great interest, and believe that practice, in the sense of" these ' Studies,' would be a valuable preparation for manoeuvres on a more ex- tended scale." — Berlin, June, 1872. Eden (Frederic). THE NILE WITHOUT A DRAGOMAN. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 'js. 6d. " Should any of our readers care to imitate Mr. Eden's example, and wish to see things with their own eyes, and shift for themselves next winter in Upper Egypt, they will find this book a very agreeable guide." — Times. " It is a book to read during an autumn holiday." — Spectator. Eiloart (Mrs.) LADY MORETOUN'S DAUGHTER. 3 voK Cr. 8vo. 3 1 J. ()d. "Carefully written . , The narrative is well sustained." — Athen^uvi. " An interesting story . . . Above the rim of average novels." — Vanity Fair. " Will prove more popular than any of the author's former works .... In- teresting and readable." — Hour. "A faithful and well-drawn picture of English life and character .... All the characters are drawn with the author's wonted firmness and truth of touch .... Extremely well written." — Edi7i]ni7-gh Daily Review. " The story is well put together^ and readable." — Examiiier. Henry S. King 6^ Coh Publications, 23 EROS AGONISTES. Poems. By E. B. D. Fcap. 8vo. 3^. 6^. *' It is not the least merit of these pages that they are everywhere illumined with moral and religious sentiment, suggested, not paraded, of the brightest, purest character. " — Standard. Eyre (Maj.-Gen. Sir Vincent), C.B., K.C.S.I.,&c. LAYS OF A KNIGHT-ERRANT IN MANY LANDS. Square crown 8vo. With Six Illustrations, "js. dd. Pharaoh Land. | Home Land. ( Wonder Land. | Rhine Land. *'A collection of pleasant and well-written stanzas . . . abounding in real fun and humour." — Literary World. "The conceits here and there are really very amusing." — Standard. Farquharson (Martha). Three Works by. I. ELSIE DINSMORE. Crown 8vo. 3^. 6(/. II. ELSIE'S GIRLHOOD. Crown 8vo. y. dd. III. ELSIE'S HOLIDAYS AT ROSELANDS. Crown 8vo. 3^. 61/. These are volumes of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s Series of 3J-. 6d. Books for the Young. Each Story is independent and complete in itself They are pub- lished in uniform size and price, and are elegantly bound and illus- trated. "We do not pretend to have read the history of Elsie as she is portrayed in three different volumes. By the help, however, of the illustrations, and by dips here and there, we can safely give a favourable account." — ^esttnitister Kevievj. "Elsie Dinsmore is a familiar name to a world of young readers. In the above three pretty volumes her story is complete, and it is one full of youthful experiences, winning a general interest." — AtheiicEum. Favre (Mons. Jules). THE GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIONAL DE- FENCE. From the 30th June to the 31st October, 1870. The Plain Statement of a Member, i yol. Demy 8vo. los.dd. Every unprejudiced reader will recognize in this work the lan- guage of an honourable man, more anxious for the triumph of truth than for his own justification, scrupulously desirous to make known the smallest details which may serve to throw any light on events worthy to be remembered, and to give to all those men who took part therein the honour due to them. "A work of the highest interest. The book is most valuable."— j4^>%^«^r«;«, " Of all the contributions to the history of the late war, we have found none more fasciriating and, perhaps, none more valuable than the * apology," by M Jules Favre, for the unsuccessful Government of the NationalDefence." — Times 24 A Descriptive Catalogue of Forbes (Archibald). SOLDIERING AND SCRIBBLING. A Series of Sketches. Crown 8vo. ^s. dd. Among the Essays in this Volume are the following : — At the Christmas Cattle Market. —In a Military Prison. — Army Crimes and Punishment. — Christmas in a Cavalry Regiment. — Christmas Eve among the Beggars. Fowle (Rev. T. W.), M. A. THE RECONCILIATION OF RELIGION AND SCIENCE. Being Essays on Immortality, Inspiration, Miracles, and the Being of Christ. Demy 8vo. loj-. 6^. This book is an endeavour to carry on the traditions received from the founders of liberal theology in England, and to harmonize the religious truths they derived from nature, history, the Bible, and the soul of man, with scientific thought. " A book which requires and deserves the respectful attention of all reflecthig Churchmen. It is earnest, reverent, thoughtful, and courageous .... There is scarcely a page in the book which is not equally worthy of a thoughtful pause."— XzV^rirrj' Churckinau. Fraser (Donald), Accountant to the British-Indian Steam Navigation Company, Limited. EXCHANGE TABLES OF STERLING AND INDIAN RUPEE CURRENCY, upon a new and extended system, embracing Values from One Farthing to One Hundred Thousand Pounds, and at Rates progressing, in Sixteenths of a Penny, from \s. ^d. to 2s. ^d. per Rupee. Royal 8vo. los. 6d. These tables have been framed with the object of securing in- creased facility in the computation of exchanges between Great Britain and India. The calculations have all been tested by various independent methods of verification, and the work is presented to the public with a feeling of confidence that it will be found strictly correct throughout. " The calculations must have entailed great labour on the author, but the work is one which we fancy must become a standard one in all business houses which have dealings with any country where the rupee and the English pound ar& standard coins of currency." — Itwertiess Courier. Frere (Sir H. Bartle E.), G.C.B., G.C.S.I., &c. THE THREATENED FAMINE IN BENGAL; How it may be Met, and the Recurrence of Famines in India Prevented. Being No. i of "Occasional Notes on Indian Affairs. " Cro\vn 8vo. With 3 Maps. Sj-. This subject is one of permanent importance to the whole of India. One great object of the book is to show that famines are entirely preventible in India as elsewhere. Henry S. King &• Co.'s Publications. 25 Friswell (J. Hain). THE BETTER SELF. Essays for Home Life. Crown 8vo. 6s. ONE OF TWO ; or, The Left-Handed Bride. Crown 8vo. With a Frontispiece. 3j. dd. Being a Voknne of the Cornliill Library of Fiction. "Told with spirit . . . the plot is skilfully made." — Spectator. " Admirably narrated and intensely interesting. — Public Opinion. Gardner (John), M.D. LONGEVITY; THE MEANS OF PROLONGING LIFE AFTER MIDDLE AGE. Third Edition, revised and enlarged. Small crown 8vo. 4^". The purpose of this work is not to supersede the physician in treating maladies. It is to call attention to those peculiarities of the constitution which distinguish age from youth and manhood, to point out those symptoms of deviation from the healthy standard which are usually disregarded or considered unavoidable incidents of age. " We are bound to say that in general Dr. Gardner's directions are sensible enough, and founded on good principles. The advice given is such that any man in moderate health might follow it with advantage, whilst no prescription or other claptrap is introduced which might savour of quackery." — Lancet. " Dr. Gardner's suggestions for attaining a healthy and so far a happy old age are well deserving the attention of all who think such a blessing worth try- ing for." — Notes and Queries. Garrett (Edward). BY STILL "WATERS. A Story for Quiet Hours. Crown 8vo. With Seven Illustrations. 6j-. " We have read many books by Edward Garrett, but none that has pleased us so well as this. It has more than pleased ; it has charmed us." — Nonconformist. Gibbon (Charles). FOR LACK OF GOLD. Crown 8vo. With a Frontispiece. " A power fully- written, nervous story.''- Atlicn^itm. ''.There are few recent novels more powerful and engrossing." — Examiner. ■"A piece of very genuine workmanship. "^.5?-:Vzj/! Quarterly Rezne^u. ROBIN GRAY. Crown 8vo. With a Frontispiece. 3^. 6/. *' Pure in sentiment, well written, and cleverly constructed."— .^r^V/j/i Quar- terly Review. " A novel of tender and pathetic interest." — Globe. " A pretty tale, prettily told. "~A thenantm. ■''An unassuming, characteristic, and entertaining novel."— ^tj/m EiiU. The above Volumes form part of the Comhill Library of Fiction. 26 A Descriptive Catalogue of Gilbert (Mrs.) MRS. GILBERT, FORMERLY ANN TAYLOR, AUTOBIOGRAPHY AND OTHER MEMORIALS OF. Edited by Josiah Gilbert. In 2 vols. Post 8vo. With 2 Steel Portraits and several Wood Engravings. 24^-. t" Very beautifully written. It gives the home history of a most interesting- and talented family, and it possesses a charm peculiar to the writing of a really clever woman." — Exatniner. *' Mr. Gilbert has succeeded in painting a remarkable and attractive portrait, of which the setting is graceful and appropriate." — Academy. " The family life was tender and beautiful, . . but the charm of the group consists in the character of the central figure, which Mr. Gilbert has so firmly yet delicately drawn." — Noticottforudst. Godkin (James). THE RELIGIOUS HISTORY OF IRELAND: Primi- tive, Papal, and Protestant. Including the Evangelical Missions, Catholic Agitations, and Church Progress of the last half Century. I vol. 8vo. 12s. " These latter chapters on the statistics of the various religious denominations will be welcomed." — Evening Standard. " Mr. Godkin writes with evident honesty, and the topic on which he writes is one about which an honest book is greatly wanted." — Examiner. Godwin (William). WILLIAM GODWIN : Autobiography, Memoir, and Correspondence. By C. Kegan Paul. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. With Portraits. THE GENIUS OF CHRISTIANITY UNVEILED. Being Essays, never before published. Edited, vifith a Preface, by C. Kegan Paul, i vol. Crown Svo. "js. 6d. In all these essays Mr. Godwin pointed in the direction along which we, the children of a later day, have advanced, even if he did not indicate the precise path we have travelled. " Few have thought more clearly and directly than William Godwin, or ex- pressed their reflections with more simplicity and unreserve." — Examiner. " The deliberate thoughts of Godwin deserve to be put before the world for reading and consideration." — Athentzicjn. Goetze (Capt. A. von). THE OPERATIONS OF THE GERMAN ENGI- NEERS AND TECHNICAL TROOPS IN THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR OF 1870-71. Translated by Col. G. Graham. Demy Svo. With 6 Plans. Goodman (Walter). CUBA. THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES. Crown Svo. 7.^. 6^. Mr. Goodman had various and ample opportunities of studying the institutions of Cuba, its races, and its government. He arrived in the island when Cuba was enjoying uninterrupted peace and Henry S. King 6^ CoJs Publications. 27 prosperity, and his departure took place in the first year of her adversity. " A series of vivid and miscellaneous sketches. We can recommend this. whole volume as very amusing reading." — Pall Mall Gazette. " The whole book deserves the heartiest commendation Sparkling and amusing from beginning to end." — Spectator. Gosse (Edmund W.) ON VIOL AND FLUTE. With Title-page specially de- signed by William B. Scott. Crown 8vo. 5s. "A careful perusal of his verses will show that he is a poet. . . . His song has the grateful, murmuring sound which reminds one of the softness and deli- ciousness of summer time. . . There is much that is good in the volume." — Spectator. Granville (A. B.), M.D., F. R.S., &c. AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A. B. GRANVILLE, F.R.S., &c. Edited, with a brief account of the concluding years of his life, by his youngest Daughter, Paulina B. Granville. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. With a Portrait. 325-. Dr. Granville practised his profession in Italy, Greece, Turkey, Spain, Portugal, the West Indies, Russia, Germany, France, and England, and was brought into contact with most of the royal, political, and literary celebrities of his day. " Well worth reading. . . . To few men is it given to tell the tale of a career on which fortune has so uniformly smiled throu.Efhout. ... Of his success with patients, including well-nigh every name of mark during two generations, we get an extraordinary abundance of details. Madame de Stael, Lord and Lady EUenborough. Mrs. Siddons, Bishop Tomline, Count Woronzow, and a great Persian satrap are prominent among the list." — Saturday Review. Gray (Mrs. Russell). LISETTE'S VENTURE. A Novel. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 21S. Greenwood (James), "The Amateur Casual." IN STRANGE COMPANY; or. The Note Book of a. Roving Correspondent. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. ds. ** A bright, lively book." — SiancLird. " Has all the interest of romance." — Queen. 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Advantage has been taken of these to weave together a narrative which may not be uninteresting to a large circle of readers. THE QUEEN'S SHILLING. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. lu. " Every scene, character, and incident of the book are so life-like that they seem drawn from life direct." — Pa^i Mall Gazette. Gruner (M. L.) STUDIES OF BLAST FURNACE PHENOMENA. Translated by L. D. B. Gordon, F.R.S.E., F.G.S. Demy 8vo. 7J-. bd. The main point of novelty in these studies and what gives them their chief interest is the precision given to the doctrine that the C O'^ ratio of ^^ in the escaping gases is the index of the working of the furnaces. "The whole subject is dealt with very copiously and clearly in all its parts, and can scarcely fail of appreciation at the hands of practical men, for whose use it is designed." — Post. Gurney (Rev. Archer Thompson). WORDS OF FAITH AND CHEER. A Mission of In- struction and Suggestion. I vol. Crown 8vo. bs. 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" Seldom has it been our lot to meet with a more appreciative delineation of character than this Memoir of iizwthoTrte.''~-Mi>rfnu^ Post. " Exhibits a discriminating enthusiasm- for one of the most fascinating of novelists," — Saturday Review. SEPTIMIUS. A Romance. Second Edition. CrownSvo. <)s. This story was the last written by Nathaniel Hawthorne. It is printed as it was found among his MSS. It is a striking speci- men of the peculiarities and charm of his style, and has an added interest for those v/ho care to study the method of his composition, from the fact of its not having received his final revision. The A tketuej(7/i says that "the book is full of Ha\vthome's most characteristic writing." Hayman (Henry), D.D., late Head Master of Rugby School. RUGBY SCHOOL SERMONS. With an Introductory Essay on the Indwelling of the Holy Spirit. Crown 8vo. HEATHERGATE. A Story of Scottish Life and Character. By a New Author. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 2ls. 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"A learned account of the geography of this still ill-known land, of the charac- teristics of its main divisions, of the nature and habits of its numerous races, and of the progress through it of Russian influence . . it contains a large amount of valuable information." — T ivies. "A lucidly written, and apparently accurate accoxmt of Turkestan, its geo- graphical features and its history. Its worth to the reader is further enhanced by a well-executed map, based on the most recent Russian surveys," — Giasgozo I\\"WS. Henry S. King 6^ Co.^s Publications. 3 1 Helvig (Captain Hugo). THE OPERATIONS OF THE BAVARIAN ARMY CORPS. Translated by Captain G. S. Schwabe. With Five large Maps. In 2 vols. Demy 8vo. 24J. This is one of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s Series of Mili- tary Books. " It contains much material that may prove useful to the future historian of the war ; and it is, on the whole, written in a spirit of fairness and impartiality. . . . . It only remains to say that the work is enriched by some excellent large scale maps, and that the translator has performed his work most creditably." — AiheTuettm . " An Instructive work." — Westminster Review. " Captain Schwabe has done well to translate it, and his translation is ad- mirably executed." — Pall Matt Gazette. Hinton (James), late Aural Surgeon to Guy's Hospital. THE PLACE OF THE PHYSICIAN. Being the Intro- ductory Lecture at Guy's Hospital, 1873-74; to which is added Essays on the Law of Human Life, and on the Rela- tion BETWEEN Organic and Inorganic Worlds. Crown 8vo. y. td. Mr. Hinton claims for physicians that through the necessary relations of their special knowledge to all other, they stand in the attitude of teachers to every other class of men, especially to those whose business lies with the most important spheres of human life, but if the physician is a teacher, he is surely also on every hand a learner. PHYSIOLOGY FOR PRACTICAL USE. By various Writers. Second Edition. With 50 Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. I2J. 6rf. "A more clear, valuable, and well-informed set of treatises we never saw than these, which are bound up into two compact and readable volumes. And they are pleasant reading, too, as well as useful reading." — LiteraryChurchman. '* We can heartily recommend these instructive essays to our readers, being sure that no one who begins them will lay them down without having gained some knowledge. " — Liverpoot A tbion. "We never saw the popular side of the science of physiology better explained than it is in these two thin volumes." — Standard. "It has certainly been edited with great care. Physiological treatises we have had in great number, but not one work, we believe, which so thoroughly appeals to all classes of the community as the present. Everything has appa- rently been done to render the work really practical and useful." — Civil Service Gazette. AN ATLAS OF DISEASES OF THE MEMBRANA TYMPANI. With. Descriptive Text. Post 8vo. £6(>s. The drawings in this volume are entirely done by hand, and the author is able to say of them that they have been executed with a fidelity and perfectness that has at least equalled his most sanguine expectations. 32 A Descriptive Catalogue of Hinton (James). THE QUESTIONS OF AURAL SURGERY. Post 8vo. With Illustrations. I2j. dd. The author's design is to lay before the reader the general aspect of disease when it affects the ear; to mention the best estabh"shed results of examination and methods of treatment, but above all to suggest the many problems which they open out Hockley (W. B.) TALES OF THE ZENANA; OR, A NUWAB'S LEISURE HOURS. By the Author of " Pandurang Hari." AVith a Preface by Lord Stanley of Alderley. 2 vols. Cr. 8vo. His. 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" Captain Hoff bauer's style is much more simple and agreeable than those of many of his comrades and fellow authors, and it suffers nothing in the hands of Captain Hollist, whose translation is close and faithful. He has given the general public a readable and instructive book ; whilst to his brother officers, who have a special professional interest in the subject, its value cannot well be overrated. " — A caderny. Holroyd (Captain W. R. M.), Bengal Staff Corps, Director of Public Instruction, Punjab. TAS-HIL UL KALAM ; OR, HINDUSTANI MADE EASY. Crown Svo. t,s. This work comprises lessons progi-essively an-anged, a concise grammar, exercises for translation, and a vocabulary. " As clear and as instructive as possible." — Standard. " Contains a great deal of most necessary information, that is not to be fonnd in any other work on the subject that has crossed our path." — J/pf/reiiiard Matt. Hooper (Mrs. G.) THE HOUSE OF RABY. Crown Svo., with a Frontis- piece. 3.r. 61/. One of the volumes of the Cornhill Library of Fiction. " A work of singular truthfulness, originality, and power." — Morjtiit^ Poit. " Exceedingly well written." — Exnjititter. "A well told and interesting story." — Academy. Hooper (Mary). LITTLE DINNERS : HOW TO SERVE THEM WITH ELEGANCE AND ECONOMY. Seventh Edition. I vol. Crown Svo. 5^. Shows how the best use can be made of cheap material, and Henry S. King &• Co.'s Publications. 33 helps to revive what threatens to become a lost art in the home. '' We ought not to omit the mention of several very good recipes which Mrs. Hooper vouchsafes us— ir. g-.j rump-steak pudding, sheep's-head, Scotch fashion, devilled fowl, rich plum-pudding, neck of venison cooked in a V oven, how to cook whitebait, and how to ' scollop oysters.' She has good hints about salmi of wild duck, and her caution on the deliberate preparation of the sauce for the same delicacy, roasted, assures us that — given the means and the heart to put her knowledge in practice — she undeniably knows what is good." — Saturday Review. " To read this book gives the reader an appetite."— iVi7^- excellent little book. ... a capital help to any housekeeper who , interests herself in her kitchen and her cook." — Vanity Fair. Hope (Lieut. James). IN QUEST OF COOLIES. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 6s. The author has simply told the tale of his own adventures in the South Seas, believing that in the discussion on the Coolie system evidence at first hand will have some value. Hopkins (Manley). THE PORT OF REFUGE ; or, Counsel and Aid to Shipmasters in Difficulty, Doubt, or Distress. Crown Svo. 6j. 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" Curious adventures with bears, seals, and other Arctic animals, and with scarcely more human Esquimaux, form the mass of material with which the story deals, and will much interest boys who have a spice of romance in their composition." — Couratit. D 34 A Descriptive Catalogue of Howell (James). A TALE OF THE SEA, SONNETS, AND OTHER POEMS. Fcap. 8vo. 5^. "Mr. Howell has a keen perception of the heauties of nature, and a just appreciation of the charities of life. . . . Mr. Howell's book deserves, and will probably receive, a warm reception." — Pall Mall Gazette. Hughes (Allison). PENELOPE AND OTHER POEMS. Fcap.Svo. i^.(sd. " In the shape they assume, there is much to challenge admiration, much praise, and some absolute accomplishment. If the verse moves stiffly, it is because the substance is rich and carefully wrought. That artistic regard for the value of words, which is characteristic of the best modern workmanship, is apparent in every composition, and the ornament, even when it might be pro- nounced excessive, is tasteful in arrangement." — Athot^ian. Hull (Edmund C. P.) THE EUROPEAN IN INDIA. A Hand-book of Practical Information for those proceeding to, or residing in, the East Indies, relating to Outfits, Routes, Time for Departure, Indian Climate, &c. With a Medical Guide for Anglo-Indians. Being a Compendium of Advice to Europeans in India, relating to the Pre- servation and Regulation of Health. By R. R. S. Mair, M. D. , F. R. C. S. E. , late Deputy Coroner of Madras. Second Edition, Revised and Corrected. In i vol. Post 8vo. (ss. " Full of all sorts of useful information to the English settler or traveller in India. " — Standard. 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" We like all the contents of the * Little Wonder-Hom ' very much." — At/teti/^u»t. " We recommend it with confidence." — Pall Mall Gazette. " Full of fresh and vigorous fancy : it is worthy of the author of some of the best of our modern verse." — Standard. OFF THE SKELLIGS. (Her First Romance.) 4 vols. Crown 8vo. 42^'. ^"Clever and sparkling." — Standard. " We read each succeeding volume with increasing interest, going almost to he point of wishmg there was a fifth." — Athtnawn. Henry S. King 6-" Co!s Publications. 35 International Scientific Series (The). I. THE FORMS OF WATER IN CLOUDS AND RIVERS, ICE AND GLACIERS. By J. Tyndall, LL.D., F.R.S. Wth Twenty-six Illustrations. Fourth Edition, ^s. II. PHYSICS AND POLITICS; or, Thoughts on the Application of the Principles of " Natural Selec- tion " AND "Inheritance" to Political Society. By Walter Bagehot. Second Edition. 4^-. III. FOODS. By Edward Smith, M.D., LL.B., F.R.S. Pro- fusely Illustrated. Third Edition. 5^. ; IV. 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" The reader will find some of the most important doctrines of eminent art teachers practically applied in this little book, which is well written and popular in style." — Manchester Exiinihu:r, This thoughtful little book is .vorthy of the perusal of all interested in art or architecture." — Standard. Jacob (Maj.-Gen. Sir G. Le Grand), K.C.S.I., C.B. WESTERN INDIA BEFORE AND DURING THE MUTINIES. Pictures drawn from life. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. "js. dd. " The most important contribution to the history of Western India during the Mutinies which has yet, in a popular form, been made ^\M\c"—Atkeiueum.^ " Few men more competent than himself to speak authoritatively concerning Indian affairs." — Stajidard. Jenkins (E.) and Raymond (J.), Esqrs., Barristers- at-law. A LEGAL HANDBOOK FOR ARCHITECTS, BUILDERS, AND BUILDING OWNERS. Second Edition Revised. Crown 8vo. ds. A practical handboolc for the man who wishes to build, the man who designs, and the man who erects the building. "We can confidently recommend this book to all engaged in the building trades." — Edhibtirgh Daily Review. "Architects, builders, and especially the building public, will find the volume very useful." — Freeman. Jenkins (Edward), M.P. GLANCES AT INNER ENGLAND. A Lecture de- livered in the United States and Canada. Crown Svo. 5^. " These * glances ' exhibit much of the author's characteristic discrimination and judgment." — Edinburi^h Couraut. " Cleverly written, full of terse adages and rapier-like epigrams it is ; thought- ful and just it is in many respects." — Ec/io. " Eloquent and epigrammatic." — Illustrated Review. GINX'S BABY: HIS BIRTH AND OTHER MIS- FORTUNES. Thirty-fourth Edition. Crown Svo. 2s. LUCHMEE AND DILLO. A Story of West Indian Life. 2 vols. Demy Svo. Illustrated. \Preparing. LITTLE HODGE. xV Christmas Country Carol. Foiu-- teenth Thousand. With Five Illustrations. Crown Svo. ^s. A Cheap Edition in paper covers, price is. LORD BANTAM. Seventh Edition. Crown Svo. 2s. 6d. A Descriptive Catalogue of Kaufmann (Rev. M.), B.A. SOCIALISM : its Nature, its Dangers, and its Remedies con- sidered. Crown 8vo. 7j. (>d. This volume, on the one hand, is addressed to the capitalists- against whom the International and kindred affiliations are direct- ing their open attacks and secret combinations ; on the other hand it is addressed to those enlightened leaders of the labouring classes who can see no other means of salvation for the working man than the destruction of the capital and influence of the middle and upper classes. " Of great importance and full of instructive matter. . . . We do not hesitate to recommend it to all readers interested in the important subjects of which it treats." — Mr. T. E. Cliffe Leslie, in the Academy, " A really complete theory upon the question. . . . Without assuming the authority of all he (Dr. Schaffle) urges, as explained by his English editor, we feel it would be difficult to recommend to those more especially interested a better or more conscientious summing up of the entire arguments on both sides.'" — Standard, Keating (Mrs.). HONOR BLAKE : The Story of a Plain Woman. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 21^. " One of the best novels we have met with for some time." — Momijtg Post. Z." ^ story wliich must do good to all, j^oung and old, who read it." — Daily- News. Ker (David). ON THE ROAD TO KHIVA. Illustrated ^\-ith Photo- graphs of the Country and its Inhabitants, and a copy of the Official Map in use during the Campaign, from the Sur^'ey of Captain Leusilin. i vol. Post 8vo. \is. *' Though It is a graphic and thoughtful sketch, we refer to it, in some degree, for reasons apart from its intrinsic merits. . . . He (the author) has satisfied us tbat he was not the impudent impostor he seemed to be ; and though he did not witness the fall of Khiva, he travelled through a great part of Central Asia^ and honestly tried to accomplish his task. . . . His work, we have said, is an able resuvie of genuine observation and reflection, which will well repay a reader's attention." — Times. "A pleasant book of travels. It is exceedingly smart and clever, full oC amusing anecdotes and graphic descriptions." — Vanity Fair. THE BOY SLAVE IN BOKHARA. A Tale of Central Asia. Crown 8vo. With Illustrations. 5j-. One of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s 5^-. Books for the Young. In this work real scenes are grouped round an imaginary hero ; genuine information is conveyed in a more attractive foim than that of a mere dry statistical report. *' Ostap Danilevitch Kostarenko, the Russian who is supposed to relate the story, has a great number of adventures, and passes by dint of courage and ability from a state of slavery to one of independence. Will prove attractive to hoys."— Pall Mall Gazette. Henry S. King &> CoJs Piihlications, 39 King (Alice). A CLUSTER OF LIVES. Crown 8vo. ^s.^d. Contents. — Vittoria Colonna — Madame Recamier — A Daughter of the Stuarts — Dante — Madame de Sevigne — Geoffrey Chaucer — Edmund Spenser — Captain Cook's Companion — Ariosto — Lucrezia Borgia — Petrarch — Cervantes — ^Joan of Arc — Galileo — • Madame Cottin — Song of the Bird in the Garden of Armida. *' It is not every writer who possesses the faculty of leaving clear impressions of his or her personages upon the minds of readers. This, however, is done, and well done, by the writer of the volume before us." — Pall Mall Gazette. " A little collection of historical biographies .... very gracefully written, .... brilliant and striking in scenes and costumes, wonderfully accurate as to facts, sensible and correct in reflection." — Literary Churchma^i. King (Mrs. Hamilton). THE DISCIPLES. A New Poem. Second Edition, with some Notes. Crown Svo. *js. 6d, "A very remarkable poem. The writer does not seem so much to compose, as to breathe it forth ; it is the fruit of intense personal feeling ; it glows with the fires of an absolute conviction. It is a hymn of praise, a chaunt of sorrow, suffering, and glory. . . . We feel when we have read a few pages that we are in the presence of something strange to us, of something large and deep, of much more devotion, love, and faith, than we are accustomed to. . . . That Mrs. King's love for Mazzini has prompted her to write a poem apart from other poems — original, touching, and ennobling — will, we tbink, be evident to any one who will read the first few pa^es of her book." — Saturday Revieiv. "Throughout it breathes restramed passion and lofty sentiment, which flow out now and then as a stream widening to bless the lands, into powerful music." British Quarterly Review, ASPROMONTE, AND OTHER POEMS. Second Edition. Cloth, 4^. 6^/. **The volume is anonymous, but there is no reason for the author to be ashamed of it. The ' Poems of Italy' are evidently inspired by genuine enthu- siasm in the cause espoused ; and o»e of them, ' The Execution of Felice Orsini,' has much poetic merit, the event celebrated being told with dramatic force." — ■ Athenceuvi. " The verse is fluent and free," — Spectator. Kingsford (Rev. F. W.), M.A., Vicar of St Thomas's, Stamford Hill ; late Chaplain H. E. I. C. (Bengal Presidency). HARTHAM CONFERENCES ; or, Discussions upon some of the Religious Topics of the Day. " Audi alteram partem." Crown Svo. ■y. 6d. Contents : — Introductory. — The Real Presence — Confession. — Ritualism. "Able and interesting. "—CA!d. "An exceedingly useful kind of book. A valuable acquisition to the military studentls library. It recounts, in the first place, the opinions and tactical for- - mations which regulated the German army during the early battles of the late war; explains how these were modified in the course of the campaign by the terrible and unanticipated effect of the fire ; and how, accordingly, troops should be trained to attack in future wars." — Naval aiid Military Gazette. Leander (Richard). FANTASTIC STORIES. Translated from the German by Paulina B. Granville. With Eight full-page Illustrations by M. E. Fraser-Tytler. Crown Svo. 5^. One of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s 5j. Books for the Young. " Short, quaint, and, as tliey are fitly called, fantastic, they deal with all manner of subjects." — Ciiardiiin. " * Fantastic* is certainly the right epithet to apply to some of these strange talcs. " — £xaminer. Henry S. King 6^ Co.^s Fuhlicalions. 41 Leathes (Rev. Stanley), M.A. THE GOSPEL ITS OV/N WITNESS. Being the Hiilsean Lectures for 1873. i vol. Crown 8vo. 5^-. This ■volume presents the evidential aspect of the Christian faith in a plain, matter-of-fact, common-sense way. The author holds that if we are sincere disciples of Christianity we need not shrink from being advocates likewise, so long as we do not suffer our advocacy to warp our judgment. Lee (Rev. Frederick George), D.C.L. GLIMPSES OF THE SUPERNATURAL. Being Facts, Records, and Traditions, relating to Dreams, Omens, Mira- culous Occurrences, Apparitions, Wraiths, Warnings, Second- sight, Necromancy, Witchcraft, &c. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 15^. Lee (Holme). HER TITLE OF HONOUR : a Book for Girls. New Edition. Crown 8vo., with a Frontispiece. 5^' Lenoir (J.) FAYOUM; OR, ARTISTS IN EGYPT. A Tour with M. Gerome and others. Crown 8vo. With 13 Illustrations, yj. ()d. " The book is verj' nmusing. . . Whoever may take it up will find he has with Itim a bright and pleasant companion." — Sftvctator. "A pleasantly written and very readable book." — Exatninei'. Listado (J. T.) CIVIL SERVICE. A Novel. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 2ij. "A very charming and amusing story. . . The characters arc all well drawn and life-like. . . It is with no ordinary skill that Mr. Listado has drawn the chnracter of Hugh Haughton, full as he is of scheming and subtleties. . . The plot is worked out with great skill and is of no ordinary kind." — Civil Service Gazette. " A story of Irish life, free from burlesque and partisanship, yet amusingly natiouai. . . There is plenty of ' go ' in the story." — Atheuceuiii. Lorimer (Peter), D.D. JOHN KNOX AND THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND : His work in her Pulpit and his influence upon her Liturgy, Articles, and Parties. A monograph founded upon several important papers of Knox, never before published. Demy 8vo. 12s. The author's wish has been to let Knox himself be seen and heard in his book, and this all the more that it is wholly taken up with the English section of his life and teaching. In drawing up a fuller account than has hitherto been possible of what this extra- ordinary Scotchman had been and had done in England, it seemed an appropriate aim to endeavour to awaken among English people a livelier interest in his person. 42 A Descriptive Catalogue of Lover (Samuel), R.H.A. THE LIFE OF SAMUEL LOVER, R.H.A. ; Artistic, Literary, and Musical. With Selections from his Unpublished Papers and Correspondence. By Bayle Bernard. 2 vols. Post 8vo. With a Portrait, ixs. Poet, novelist, dramatist, painter, etcher, composer, Samuel Lover, in an age of speciality, was for more than a quarter of a century one of its most notable exceptions. Lower (Mark Antony), M.A., F.S.A. WAYSIDE NOTES IN SCANDINAVIA. BeingNotes of Travel in the North of Europe. Crown 8vo. 9j. This volume is an account of researches prosecuted, during a Tour in Scandinavia, in the Summer of 1873. It contains illustra- tions of the History, Antiquities, Legendary Lore, and Social Con- dition of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, from Ancient to Modem Times. Lyons (R. T.), Assistant-Surgeon, Bengal Army. A TREATISE ON RELAPSING FEVER. Post 8vo. " A practical work, thoroughly supported in its views by a series of remarkable cases. " — StajLdard. Macaulay (James), M.A., M.D., Edin. IRELAND. A Tour of Observation, with Remarks on Irish Public Questions. Crown 8vo. 7^. dd. In the material wealth of Ireland are proofs of prosperity and progress, yet its government remains the difficulty of statesmen. On the disturbing elements — social, political, or religious — the author endeavours to show how far each of these classes of questions aifects the general condition of the country. "We have rarely met a book on Ireland which for impartiality of criticism and general accuracy of information could be so well recommended to the fair- minded Irish reader." — Standard. ■' A careful and instructive book. Full of facts, full of information, and full of interest." — Litei-ary Churchjiian, Mac Carthy (Denis Florence). CALDERON'S DRAMAS. Translated from the Spanish. Post Svo. Cloth, gilt edges. \os. These translations have been made with the utmost care. The measures are precisely imitated, and are contained in the exact nrmiber of lines of the original. "The lambent verse flows with an ease, spirit, and music perfectly natural, liberal, and harmonious." — Spectator. " It is impossible to speak too highly of this beautiful work.' — Mo7iih. Henry S, King &> Co.^s Publications. 43, Mac Donald (George). GUTTA-PERCHA AWILLIE, THE WORKING GENIUS. With Nine Illustrations by Arthur Hughes. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3^. dd. One of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s 3.?. (>d. Books for the Young. " The cleverest child we know assures us she has read this story through five times. Mr. Macdonald will, we are convinced, accept that verdict upon his little work as final." — Spectator. MALCOLM. A Novel. Second Edition. 3 vols. Crown 8vo. 3ii. dd. *'■ Mr. Mac Donald has not only put into his (Malcolm's) mouth much of the fine poetry of which the book is full, but has also given to his part active and passive heroism of the most romantic kind. . . .Of the other characters, Duncan, the aged and blind Highland piper, is admirably drawn. The inten- sity of his love and hate, of his pride and prejudice, is brought out with the utmost vividness in his relations with Malcolm and his master. . . . But these few and slight blemishes are lost in the host of beautiful images with which Mr. Mac Donald delights his readers."— /'a/^ Mail Gazette. Mac Kenna (Stephen J.) PLUCKY FELLOWS. A Book for Boys. With Six Illustrations. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3j. hd. One of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s 3^. 6d. Books for the- Young. ' ' This is one of the ^^^-y best ' Books for Boys ' which have been issued this- year." — Morning Advertiser. "A thorough book for boys . . . written throughout in a manly straight- forward manner that is sure to win the hearts of the children." — Londoti. Society. AT SCHOOL WITH AN OLD DRAGOON. CrowTi Svo. With Six Illustrations. 5-^* One of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s '^s. Books for the Young. "Consisting almost entirely of startling stories of military adventure. . . Boys will find them sufficiently exciting reading." — Times. "These yarns give some very spirited and interesting descriptions of soldier- ing in various parts of the \vqx\A"— Spectator. "Mr, Mac Kenna's former work, 'Plucky Fellows,' is already a general favourite, and those who read the stories of the Old Dragoon will find that he has still plenty of materials at hand for pleabant tales, and has lost none of his power in telling them well." — Standard. Mair (R. S.), M.D„ F.R.C.S.E., late Deputy Coroner of Madras. THE MEDICAL GUIDE FOR ANGLO-INDIANS. Being a Compendium of Advice to Europeans in India, relating to the Preservation and Regulation of Health. With a Supplement on the Management of Children in India. Crown Svo. Limp, cloth, 3^. iid. " It is impossible to speak too highly of the 'Medical Guide,' and the supple- mentary matter now added to it makes a complete book of family medicine for India." — Atheneeitm. " The parts devoted to individual hygiene, and to the management (physical and moral) of young children, are judiciously executed." — Lancet. 44 A Descriptive Catalogue of Manning (The Most Rev. Archbishop). ESSAYS ON RELIGION AND LITERATURE. By various Writers. Demy 8vo. lOj. bd. Contents : — The Philosophy of Christianity — Mystic Elements of Religion — Controversy with the Agnostics — A Reasoning Thought^Darvvinism brought to Book— Mr. Mill on Liberty of the Press — Christianity in relation to Society — The Religious Condition of Germany — The Philosophy of Bacon — Catholic Laymen and Scholastic Philosophy. Marey (E. J.) ANIMAL MECHANICS. A Treatise on Terrestrial and Aerial Locomotion. With 117 Illustrations. 5^. Volume of the International Scientific Series. Marriott (Maj.-Gen. W. F.) C.S.I. A GRAMMAR OF POLITICAL ECONOMY. Crown 8vo. 6^. The author's aim in presenting this new elementai-y treatise to the world is, firstly, to restrict it to truly elementary considerations in each branch of the subject ; secondly, to adopt a perfectly precise and unambiguous use of terms in the sense which most nearly agrees with common use ; thirdly, to offer reasonable proof of every pro- position ; and fourthly, to use the utmost brevity consistent with jDroof, so as to invite and facilitate the judgment of the student as well as of the critic. " . . . These qualities of precision in conception and accuracy in state- ment possessed in so eminent a degree by this grammar, will render it most acceptable to the student of political economy. " — Hour. Marshall (Hamilton). THE STORY OF SJR EDWARD'S WIFE. A Novel. I vol. Crown 8vo. \os. (>d. "A quiet, graceful little story." — Spectator. " Mr. Hamilton Marshall can tell a story closely and pleasantly." — Pall Mall Gazette. Marzials (Theophile). THE GALLERY OF PIGEONS, and other Poems. Crown Svo. 4?. 6d. "A conceit abounding in prettiness." — Examiner. "The rush of fresh, sparkling fancies is too rapid, too sustained, too abun- dant, not to be spontaneous." — Academy. Markewitch (B.) THE NEGLECTED QUESTION. Translated from the Russian, by the Princesses Ourousofif, and dedicated by Express Permission to Her Imperial and Royal Highness Marie Alex- androvna, the Duchess of Edinburgh. 2 vols. Crown Svo. 14J. " The rights and interests of the children of women * who change one affection for another, ruthlessly treading every obstacle under foot ' — that is to say, the deserted children of guilty wives — are advocated and urged by the Russian novelist in strong terms, and enforced by a striking and terrible example." — Spectator. Henry S. King &= Co.'s Publications. 45 Masterman (J.) HALF-A-DOZEN DAUGHTERS. Crown 8vo. With a Frontispiece. 3^. 6d. This is one of the Covnhill Library of Fiction. " A charming little story." — Saturday Review. " Unusually bright and attractive." — FaU Mall Gazette. Maudsley (Dr. Henry). RESPONSIBILITY IN MENTAL DISEASE. Second Edition. 5^-. Maughan CWilliam Charles). THE ALPS OF ARABIA; or, Travels through Egypt, Sinai, Arabia, and the Holy Land. Demy Svo. With Map. 12s. " Deeply interesting and valuable." — Editthurgh Daily Re^iieiu. " He writes freshly and with competent knowledge." — Standard. " Very readable and instructive. . . A work far above the average ofsuch publications." — Jolui Bull. Maurice (C. Edmund). LIVES OF ENGLISH POPULAR LEADERS. No. I. — Stephen Langton. Crown Svo. Is. 6d. The object of this worl<; is to bring into prominence men whose place in history has been either ignored or misrepresented. It has often been suggested that history should be written in biographies. .Such a method throws greater light on obscure parts of history, and excites a more lively interest in ordinary readers than an ordinary narrative of events. "Very well and honestly executed." — Johtt Bjtll. "In style it is characterised by the greatest fairness and ability, and the pic- ture of the archbishop is vigorously and firmly drawn." — ClinrcJtinaii's Shilling Magazine. " Well worth a careful study." — Jevjish WorM. No. 2. — Tyler, Ball, and Oldcastle. By C. Edmund Maurice. Crown Svo. Is. 6ii. "The value of this little volume lies in its copious details witli regard to the condition of the poorer classes in the Middle Ages, and particularly in the evidence which the author adduces of the close relationship between the dawning Reformation and the popular movements of the time." — Daily A^erus. " Mr. Maurice's studies are highly praiseworthy." — Saturday Review. Medley (Lieut. -Col. J. G.), Royal Engineers. AN AU1*UMN TOUR IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. Crown Svo. 5^. The concluding chapters of this work deal with the subject of American Engineering in contrast with similar enterprises in India with which the author has been connected. "Colonel Medley's little volume is a pleasantly-written account of a two months' visit to America."— /^£?«r. " May be recommended as manly, sensible, and pleasantly written."— G/t;^;?. 4^ A Descriptive Catalogue of Menzies (Sutherland). POLITICAL WOMEN. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 24r. " Has all the information of history, with all the interest that attaches to bio- graphy." — Scotsman. Micklethwaite (J. T.), F.S.A. MODERN PARISH CHURCHES; THEIR PLAN, DESIGN, AND FURNITURE. Crown 8vo. ^s.td. This work is intended as one step towards the return to rational church designing. It is the spirit, not the form, of the old churches that we should seek to imitate. '^ We strongly counsel the thinking man of any committee now formed, or forming, to restore or to build a church, to buy this book, and to read out por- tions of it to his colleagues before allowing them to come to any conclusion on a single detail of the building or its fittings." — Church Times. Mirus (Major-General von). CAVALRY FIELD DUTY. Translated by Captain Frank S. Russell, 14th (King's) Hussars. Crown 8vo. Cloth limp, ^s. dd. This work is one of Messrs. Henry S. King and Co.'s Military Series. " We have no book on cavalry duties that at all approaches to this, either for completeness in details, clearness in description, or for manifest utility. In its pages will be found plain instructions for every portion of duty before the enemy that a combatant horseman will be called upon to perform, and if a dragoon but studies it well and intelligently, his value to the army, we are confident, must be increased one hundredfold. Skirmishing, scouting, patrolling, and vedetting are now the chief duties dragoons in peace should be practised at, and how to pertorm these duties effectively is what the book teaches." — United Service Magazine. Moore (Rev. Thomas),Vicar of Christ Church, Chesham. SERMONETTES : on Synonymous Texts, taken from the Bible and Book of Common Prayer, for the Study, Family Reading, and Private Devotion. Small Crown Svo. 4f. iid. Morell (J. R.) EUCLID SIMPLIFIED IN METHOD AND LAN- GUAGE. Being a Manual of Geometiy on the French System. The chief features of the work are : — The Separation of Theorems and Problems— The Natural Sequence of Reasoning ; areas being treated by themselves and at a later page — The Simpler and more Natural Treatment of Ratio — The Legitimate Use of Arithmetical Applications, of Transposition, and Superposition — The General Alteration of Language to a more Modern Form — Lastly, if it be assumed to be venturesome to supersede the time-hallowed pages of Euclid, it may be urged that the attempt is made imder the shelter ■of veiy high authorities. Henry S. King &^ Co,^s Publications. 47 Morley (Susan). AILEEN FERRERS. A Novel. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. lis. "Her novel rises to a level far above that which cultivated women with a facile pen ordinarily attain when they set themselves to write a story. . . Its grammar is faultless, its style is pure, flowing, terse, and correct, there is not a line of fine writing" from beginning to end, and there is a total absence of any- thing like moralising, or the introduction of pretty ineffectual sermons. . . It is as a study of character, worked out in a manner that is free from almost all the usual faults of lady writers, that ' Aileen Ferrers ' merits a place apart from its innumerable rivals." — Saturday Review.'^ Mostyn (Sydney). PERPLEXITY. A Novel. 3 vols. Crown 8vo. 3U. ^d. "Written with vei-y considerable power, great cleverness, and sustained in- terest." — Standard. "The literary workmanship is good, and the story forcibly and graphically told." — Daily News. Naake (John T.), of the British Museum. SLAVONIC FAIRY TALES. From Russian, Servian, Polish, and Bohemian Sources. With Four Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 5i-. " A most choice and charming selection. . . . The tales have an original national ring in them, and wilt be pleasant reading to thousands besides children. Yet children will eagerly open the pages, and not willingly close them, of the pretty volume." — Statidard. ** English readers now have an opportunity of becoming_ acquainted with eleven Polish and eight Bohemian stories, as well as with eight Russian and thirteen Servian, in Mr. Naake's modest hut serviceable collection of Slavo7iic Fairy Tales. Its contents are, as a general rule, well chosen, and they are translated with a fidelity which deserves cordial praise. . . Before taking leave of his prettily got up volume, we ought to mention that its contents fully come up to the promise held out in its preface."— ^ctZi/i^-'Kjt'. Newman (John Henry) D.D. CHARACTERISTICS FROM THE WRITINGS OF DR. J. H. NEWMAN. Being Selections, Personal, Historical, Philosophical, and Religious, from his various Works. Arranged with the Author's personal approval. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. "With Portrait. 6j. Dr. Newman's mind is here presented in his own words on the great religious questions which have so largely exercised the intellect of this age, and which even in the judgment of those who are unable to accept his conclusions he has faced, investigated, and determined for himself, with an unflinching courage and an unswerving stead- fastness of purpose almost as rare perhaps as the high mental endowments which he has brought to the task. Newman (Mrs.) TOO LATE. A Novel. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. z\s. "The plot is skilfully constructed, the characters are well conceived, and the narrative moves to its conclusion without any waste of words. . . The tone is healthy, in spite of its incidents, which will please the lovers of sensational fiction." —Pall Mall Gazette. 48 A Descriptive Catalogue of Noble (James Ashcroft). THE PELICAN PAPERS. Reminiscences and Remains of a Dweller in the Wilderness. Crown 8vo. ds. "Written somewhat after the fashion of Mr. Helps's * Friends in Conndl.'" — ILxainmer. "Will well repay perusal by all thoughtful and intelligent readers^" — Liver- fool Leader, Norman People (The). THE NORMAN PEOPLE, and their Existing Descendants in the British Dominions and the United States of Ainerica. One handsome volume. Svo. 2\s. To prove the fallacy of some generally received maxims as to the composition of the English nation ; to show that the Noiman settlement at the Conquest consisted of something more than a slight infusion of a foreign element ; that it involved the addition of a numerous and mighty people, equally a half of the conquered population ; that as a race it is as distinguishable now as it was a thousand years since, and that at this hour its descendants may be counted by tens of millions in this country and the United States of America. ".A very singular work. . . We do not accept the consequences to tlieir full extent, but we can cordially recommend the volume as one winch is emphati- cally * extraordinary.' " — Notes and Queries. "The author has given us a valuable list of mediaeval surnames and their origin which demands our best gratitude." — Stajtdnrd, Notrege (John), A.M., for fifty-four years a Presbyter in "that pure and Apostolic Branch of Christ's Holy Catholic Church established in this Kingdom." THE SPIRITUAL FUNCTION OF A PRESBYTER IN THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND. Crown Svo. Red edges. 3^". 6f/. Oriental Sporting Magazine (The). THE ORIENTAL SPORTING MAGAZINE. A Re- print of the first 5 Volumes, in 2 Volumes. Demy Svo. 28/. " Lovers of sport will find ample amusement in the varied contents of these two volumes." — Alleles hidian Mail. " Full of interest for the sportsman and naturalist. Full of thrilling adven- tures of sportsmen who have attacked the fiercest and most gigantic specimens of the animal world in their native jungle. It is seldom we get so majjy ex- citing incidents in a similar amount of space. . . Well suited to thclibraries of countrj' gentlemen and all those who are interested in sporting matters." — Civil Service Gazette. Page (H. A.) NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE, A MEMOIR OF, with Stories now first published in this countiy. Large post Svo. " Seldom has it been our lot to meet with a more appreciative ddineation of character than this Memoir of Hawthorne."— Tl/iJr^/zV^ Post, " Exhibits a discriminating enthusiasm for one of the most fasciJiatuig of novelists." — Saturday Review. Henry S. King &= Co.'s Publications. 49 Page (Capt. S. Flood). DISCIPLINE AND DRILL. Four Lectures delivered to the London Scottish Rifle Volunteers. Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. IS. " The very useful and interesting work." — Voltmtcer Service Gazette. " An admirable collection of lectures." — Times. Palgrave (W. Gifford). HERMANN AGHA. An Eastern Narrative. 2 vols. Crown 8vo, cloth, extra gilt. \%s. " There is a positive fragrance as of newly-mown hay about it. as compared with the artificially perfumed passions which are detailed to us with such gusto by our ordinary novel-writers in their endless volumes." — Observer. Pandurang Hari. PANDURANG HARI ; or, Memoirs of a Hindoo. A Tale of Mahratta Life sixty years ago. With a Preface by Sir H. Bartle E. Frere, G.C.S.I., &c. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 21s. " There is a quaintness and simplicity in the roguery of the hero that makes his life as attractive as that of Guzman d'Alfarache or Gil Bias, and so we advise our readers not to be dismayed at the length of Pandurang Hari, but to read it resolutely through. If they do this they cannot, we think, fail to be both amused and Interested." — Times. Parker (Joseph), D.D. THE PARACLETE : An Essay on the Personality and Ministry of the Holy Ghost, with some reference to current discus- sions. Demy Svo. \2s. Parr (Harriet). ECHOES OF A FAMOUS YEAR. Crown Svo. Zs.(>d. The story of the Franco-Prussian War 1870-71, told mainly for the young, but, it is hoped, possessing permanent interest as a record of the great struggle. " Miss Parr has the great gift of charming simplicity of style : and if children are not interested in her book, many of their seniors will h^."— British Quar- terly Review. Paul (C. Kegan). GOETHE'S FAUST. A New Translation in Rime. Crovim 8vo. (>s. This is translated line for line in the metres of the original, and while it is hoped that not all the spirit has evaporated, it claims to reproduce the outward form in which that spirit dwelt. "His translation is the most minutely accurate that has yet been pro- duced. . ." — Examiner. , „ . '■ Mr. Paul s a zealous and a faithful interpreter.' —Saturday Review. E 50 A Descriptive Catalogue of Payne (John). SONGS OF LIFE AND DEATH. Crown 8vo. S^. "The art of ballad-writing has long been lost in England, and Mr. Payne may claim to be its restorer. It is a perfect delight to meet with such a ballad as ' May Margaret ' in the present volume." — Westminster Review. Pelletan (Eugfene). THE DESERT PASTOR, JEAN JAROUSSEAU. Translated from the French. By Colonel E. P. De L'Hoste. With an Engraved Frontispiece. Fcap. 8vo. New Edition. 3J. bd. "A touching record of the struggles in the cause of religious liberty of a real man. " — Grajihic. "There is a poetical simplicity and picturesqueness : the noblest heroism ; unpretentious religion : pure love ; and the spectacle of a household brought up in the fear of the Lord. . . ." — Illustrated Loftdon News. Penrice (Major J.), B.A. A DICTIONARY AND GLOSSARY OF THE KOR-AN. With copious Grammatical References and E.\plana- tions of the Text. 4to. 2is. Intended to be of service to the beginner in mastering some of the difSculties of the Kor-an, as an introduction to the study of Arabic literature. Each word will be found under its verbal root. The original meaning of the words is added. Standard books on the same subject have been consulted, and their authority quoted. "The book is likely to answer its purpose in smoothing a beginner's road in reading the Kor-an." — Academy. Perceval (Rev. P.) TAMIL PROVERBS, WITH THEIR ENGLISH TRANSLATION. Containing upwards of Six Thousand Proverbs. Third Edition. 8vo. Sewed, gj-. Perrier (Amelia). A WINTER IN MOROCCO. With Four Illustrations. Crown 8vo. los. dii. ** Well worth reading, and contains several excellent illustrations." — Hour. "Miss Perrier is a very amusing writer. She has a good deal of humour, sees the oddity and quaintness of Oriental life with a quick observant eye, and evidently turned her opportunities of sarcastic examination to account." — Daily News. A GOOD MATCH. A Xovel. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 2is. " Racy and lively." — Atluiiiruvt. "This clever and amusing novel." — Pall Mall Gazette. Peschel (Dr.) MANKIND : A Scientific Study of the Races and Distribution of Man, considered in their Bodily Variations, Languages, Occupa- tions, and Religions. Henry S. King 6^ Co.'s Publications. 5 1 Pettigrew (J. B.), M.D., F.R.S. ANIMAL LOCOMOTION; or, Walking, Swimming, and Flying. Second Edition. With 119 Illustrations, fj. Volume of the International Scientific Series. Piggot (John), F.S.A., F.R.G.S. PERSIA; ANCIENT AND MODERN. Post 8vo. \os. ad. A general view of Ancient and Modern Persia is here presented to the reader. It is supplemented by chapters on the religion, literature, commerce, arts, sciences, army education, language, sport, &c., of the country. In the chapter on travelling, the routes to the country, its climate, roads, modes of conveyance, and all other necessaiy details are described. " A very useful book." — Rock. "That Mr. Piggot has_ spared no pains or research in the execution of his work is apparent in the list of authorities, classic and modern, which he con- tinually quotes : his style also, when not recounting history, is lively and plea- sant, and the anecdotes which he culls from the writings of travellers are frequently amusing." — Hour. Poushkin (Alexander Serguevitch). RUSSIAN ROMANCE. Translated from the Tales of Bell